P ii ilJIill iiANi: nwfffrr 1 \ ■^^^^^^^v l)K:i:Mfc tlllilllll/IH iiiiillii iiiiiii!! llllllinn REM NANT S E DMONOS -0 GUIDE i300KS FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT, &c. STARKE'S CUIDE to ITALY. Ninth Edifion. With a Map. Post 8vo., 15*. bound. THE HAND-r.OOK for TRAVET LERS iu HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRl'SSL\, ami ;N0RTHERN GERMANY, and on the RHINE from HOL- LAND to S%VITZERL.\XD. Sccoiui Edition, corrected and augmented. Post 8vo. with a Map, 10s. bound. THE HAND-BOOK for TRAVELLERS in SOUTHERN GERMANY, being a Guide to BAVARIA, AUSTRIA, TYROL, SALZBURG, STYRIA, the AUSTRIAN and BAVARIAN ALPS, and along the DANUBE from ULM to the BLACK SEA. Post 8vo., with a Map, 9.«. Grf. bound. A HAND-BOOK for TRAVELLERS in NORTHERN EUROPE, being a Guide to DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, and RUSSIA. With a Map and Plans. Post *ivo. HAND-BOOK (or TRAVELLERS in SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, and PIEDMONT. With Map, post 8vo. BELGIUM and WESTERN GERMANY. By Mrs. Tbollope. Second Edition. 2 vols., m. I BUBBLES from the BRUNNEN of NASSAU. Fourth Edition, with 11 Plates. Fcp. 8vo. 7s. 6rf. DATES AND DISTANCES; rshowing wl).-»t may be done in a TOUR OF SIXTEEN MONTHS. Post 8vo., 8s. 6d. MATHEWS' DIARY of an INVALID in FRANCE and ITALY. Fiflb Edition. Fcp., 7s. 6rf. FORSYTH'S ANTIQUITIES, ARTS, and LITERATURE of ITALY. Fourth Edition. Fcp., 7s. 6d. BARROWS EXCURSIONS in the NORTH of EUROPE. New Edition, Plates and Maps. Post 8vo., 12s. BARROW'S VISIT to ICELAND and NORWAY in 1834. PostSvo., 12s. A YEAR in SPAIN. By a 'i'OUNG AMERICAN. 2 vols, post 8vo., ICs. KNIGHT'S TOUR in NORMANDY. Post 8vo., with Plates, 9s. 6d. THE NORMANS in SICILY ; or, NOTES of a JOURNEY made in SICILY, chiefly illustr>itivc of the .Architecture and History of the Normans in that Island. By HENRY GALLY KNIGHT, Esq., M.P. Post 8vo., 8s. 6d. GIFFARD'S SHORT VISIT to the IONIAN ISLANDS, ATHENS, and the MOREA. Plates. Post 8vo., 12s. ROME in the NINETEENTH 'century. By a Lady. Fourth Edition. 3 vols, post 8vo., 31s. 6d. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. July, 1838. Cir ■'7> -^ /J'^-SZ. A HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. NOTICE TO THE SECOND EDITION. This Edition of the Handbook has been subjected to a most careful and thorough re\asion ; many new routes are added, and several have been re-written. The Editor trusts that the imperfections and errors of this book will be found to have been considerably diminished. His own personal rectification of mistakes and omissions has been most materially aided by the communications of numerous and obliging cor- respondents, many of them personally unknown to him, to whom he takes this opportunity of returning his acknowledgments. He begs, at the same time, to repeat his request, that travellers who may in the use of the Handbook detect any faults or omissions which they can correct from jjcrsonal knowledge, will have the kindness to communicate to him a notice of the same, through his publisher. The mere personal exertions of the Editor must fall short of attaining perfect accuracy for such a work as a Guide-book, unless aided by such co-operation. A HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT: BEING A GUIDE THROUGH HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, AND NORTHERN GERMANY, AND along ti)C dSiifinc, from l^ollanlf to ^'tottjcrlanlr. CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES. THEIR MUSEUMS, PICTURE-. GALLERIES, &c. THE GREAT HIGH ROADS; THE MOST INTERESTING AND PICTURESQUE DISTRICTS; AND THE MOST FREQUENTED BATHS AND WATERING PLACES; ALSO DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS; AND HINTS FOR TOURS. ^ 1 I Q WITH AN INDEX MAP. P Second Edition, Augmented and carefully Revised. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY AND SON, ALBEMARLE STREET. MDCCCXXXVIII. /C3§ THE HANDBOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT ARE PUBLISHED AT AIX-LA. 1 „„ CHAPELLEJ "'' AAISTEHDAM . . AUGSBURG ; . . BERLIN BRUSSELS CARLSRUHE . . COBLENTZ COLOGNE DRESDEN FRANKFURT . . GRAtZ HAMBURG MAYER. NAYLER & CO. KOLLMAN. DUNCKER. PRATT & BARRY. CREUZBAUER & CO. BAEDEKER. DUMONT SCHAL'BERG. ARNOLD. C. JUGEL, F. WILMANS. DAMIAN & SOKGE. PERTHES, BESSER, Sc MAUKE. , BY MANNHEI.M MAYENCE .MUNICH NURNBERG PESTH •-.. PRAGUE ROTTERDAM VIENNA BROCKHAUS & AVEN.\- RIUS. ARTARIA & FONTAINE. ZABERN. LITERARISCH-ARTIST- ISCHE ANSTALT. RIEGEL & WIESSNER. HARTLEBEN. CALVE. A. BAEDEKER. BOHRMANN St SCHWEI- GERD, GEROLD, SCHAUMBURG. London : Printed by A. Spottiswoode, New.StreeUSquare. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The writer of this volume having experienced, as every Englishman visiting the Continent must have done, the want of any tolerable English Guide Book for Europe north of the Alps, was induced, partly for his own amusement, partly to assist his friends going abroad, to make copious notes of all that he thought worth observa- tion, and of the best modes of travelling and seeing things to advan- tage. In the course of repeated journeys and of occasional residence in various parts of the Continent, he not only traversed beaten routes, but visitetl many spots to which his countrymen rarely penetrate. Thus his materials have largely accumulated ; and in the hope that they may prove of as much service to the public generally, as he is assured they already have to private friends, he is now induced to put them forth in a printed form. Most of the Guide Books hitherto published are either general de- scriptions compiled by persons not acquainted with the spots, and are therefore imperfect and erroneous, or are local histories, written by residents who do not sufficiently discriminate between what is peculiar to the place, and what is not worth seeing, or may be seen equally well or to greater advantage somewhere else. The latter overwhelm their readers with minute details of its history " from the most ancient times," and with genealogies of its princes, &c. : the former confine themselves to a mere catalogue of buildings, institutions, and the like ; after reading which, the stranger is as much as ever in the dark as to what really are the curiosities of the place. They are often mere re- prints of works published many 3-ears ago, by no means corrected, or brought down to the present time ; and whether accurate or not origi- nally, are become, from the mere changes which each year produces, faulty and antiquated. The writer of the Hand-book has endeavoured to confine himself to matter-of-fact descriptions of what ought to he seen at each place, and is calculated to interest an intelligent traveller, without bewildering his readers with an account of all that mai/ be seen. He has avoided chronological details ; and instead of abridging the records of a town from beginning to end, he has selected such local anecdotes as are connected with remarkable events which have happened there, or with distinguished men who have lived there. He has adopted as simple and condensed a style as possible, avoiding florid descriptions and exaggerated superlatives. Preferring to avail himself of the descrip- tions of others, where they appeared good and correct, to obtruding extracts from his own journals ; whenever an author of celebrity, such as Scott, B)Ton, or Southey, has described a place, he has made a point of extracting the passage, knowing how much the perusal of it on the spot, where the works themselves are not to be procured, will en- hance the interest of seeing the objects described. The subject of this volume, and the purpose for which it is written, admit of little novelty, most of the information it contains being neces- A 3 2 VI PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION'. sarily derived from books, modified by actual obser\-ations. But many of the Morks consulted are in foreign languages, and not easily acces- sible to English readers. To this have been added the results of the writers personal experience and inquiries made on the spot ; and he has taken much pains to acquire the most recent information from the best authorities, and to bring it down to the present time. Many of the routes also have never before been laid down in any Guide Book published in this country, and the Avhole is so arranged as to be fitted for the use of the English traveller. This volume is complete in itself as far as it goes, and is intended to preclude the necessity of resorting to any other Guide Book in the countries which it professes to describe. Should the book be found to possess any superiority over others of its class, it is because it is based upon a personal knowledge of the countries described ; since those routes which have not been travelled over by the author himself, have, with very few exceptions, been re- vised by friends to whom they are actually known. Many of the descriptions of routes have ab-eady served to guide travellers abroad, and have thus been verified on the spot. That such a work can be faultless is impossible, and the author has therefore to throw himself on the indulgence of his readers, to excuse the inaccuracies (numerous, no doubt) which may occur in the course of it, especially in the first Edition, in spite of the care taken to avoid them ; and he most jxtrticulnrli/ requests all who make use of it to favour him, by transmitting, through his publisher, a notice of any m\s- taJccs or omissions tvhich they may discover. Such communications will be carefully attended to in the event of a new edition being required. The blunders of the author of a " Tour on the Continent," published for the edification of the public at home, may escape detection, but a book of this kind, every word of which is liable to be weighed and verified on the spot, is subjected to a much more severe test and cri- ticism. What Dr. Johnson said of Dictionaries is also applicable to Guide Books : — " They are like watches ;' the worst is better than none — the best cannot be expected to go quite true." The writer begs to express his acknowledgments to numerous friends, whose names he is not at liberty to mention, who have oblig- ingl\ favoured him with notes and corrections during the printing of the book. Should the Hand-book for Northern Germany meet with a Hivour- able reception, it will be followed at a short interval by a Hand-book for Southern Germany*, including the interesting ranges of the Austrian, Tyrolesc, Bavarian, and Salzburg Alps (man\- parts of which surpass even Switzerland in beauty), and the descent of the Danube from Ulm to Vienna, and thence to the Black Sea. These two volumes will thus form a complete guide for the whole of German} from the Baltic to the Alps and Adriatic. Tlie Hand-book for Switzerland will form a third volumef — the materials for which are alrcadv collected. August, 1836. • Published in 1837. t In the press, 1838. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Page Containing Information which may be of use before leaving Eng- land . . . . . . iz Skeleton Tours ..... xxx Genealogv of the principal Reigning Houses in Northern Europe . . .... xxxv Tables of Foreign Coins reduced to the English Value . xl Sect. I. —HOLLAND. Introductory Information . . . .1 Routes . . . . . .20 Sect. II.— BELGIU3L Introductory Information . . . 77 Routes . . . . . .89 Sect. IIL — GERMANY Genernl Innformation . . . .183 Sect. IV.— PRUSSIA— NORTHERN GERMANY— THE RHINE. Introductory Information . . . . 207 Routes ...... 212 Sect. V.— PRUSSIA, conve calculation will be near the mark if he travels 7u or 80 English miles a day, ifhe limit himself to 40 or 50, the expense will probably not exceed 2Ui-. for each jjcrson. ^_ MONEY.— CIRCULAK NOTES. XVll which, while it serves to identify the bearer, also gives him a claim to their good offices, in case he may need them. The letter is addressed to nearly two hundred agents and correspondents in different parts of Europe, so that wherever the traveller may be, he cannot be very far removed from his supplies. '• The value of the notes is reduced into foreign monej", at the cmTent usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, subject to no deduction for commissio?!, or to any other charge whatever, unless the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a premium. They are drawn to order, and the traveller will naturally, for his own security, not endorse them till he receives the money ; besides which, such checks are so concerted with the agents as to render a successful forgery of his name scarcely possible." From the number of English who now go abroad, these circular letters can no longer be expected to serve as a private letter of intro- duction ; but it is of no slight importance in many cases of difficulty to the stranger, in a strange place, to be able to produce a reference to some person of respectability ; and the parties to whom these letters are addressed are usually ready to afford fHendly advice and assistance to those who need it. It is ad\isable for the traveller to take a supply of English money to pay his expenses in the steam-boat, and on landing, as well as to guard against running short of money in places where circular notes cannot be cashed. English sovereigns beai- so high a premium all over Gennany, that in shops and inns at all the large towns they are often taken at their full value, and even greedily sought after. When the stranger, however, requires to change this or any other money into the current coin of the country in which he is travelling, the best plan is to take them to some authorised money-changer (geld-weschler, changeur de monnoies), who from his profession is necessarily acquainted with the rate of exchange (such persons are to be found m almost every town) ; and by no means to change them at shops or inns, where, from ignorance or fraud, travellers are liable to be cheated. The best continental gold coins which travellers bound for Germany can take with them out of England, arc the Dutch pieces of 10 and a guilders, which are current, not only in Holland and Belgiiun, but throughout both Northern and Southern German}'. Napoleons pass only in France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and on the immediate borders of the Rhine ; in other parts of Germany and in Holland they are but little known, and are troublesome to change. Gold coins are rare in many parts of the Continent, and must be purchased at a pre- mium by those who require them. In Prussia and Austria there is a paper coinage of the same value as the metallic currency; in Prussia also, goM Friedrichs d'or are easily procured. In other parts of Ger- many the traveller is obliged to receive his money in crown-pieces, if he is unwilling to submit to any deduction ; and it is no slight incon- venience to be thus loaded with 20/. worth of silver. The best silver coins to take are, for Northern Germany, Prussian XVIII PASSPORTS. dollars ; since the coins of Prussia (except the small change) now pass current in all the states which are members of the New Custom- house Union (Zollverein) ; and for Southern Germany, Brabant dollars (ecus de Brabant), which are almost universally current, from Frank- fort and Dresden, southwards. In merely passing through a country, it is expedient to take no more of its coins than are necessary to carry one through it, as almost every state has a distinct coinage ; and a certain loss must be sustained by each exchange. cl. PASSPORTS. Of all the penalties, at the expense of which the pleasure of travel- ling abroad is purchased, the most disagreeable and most repugnant to English feelings is that of submitting to the strict regulations of the continental police, and especially to the annoyance of bearing a pass- port. As this, however, is a matter of necessity, from which there is no exemption (no one being allowed to travel on the Continent without a passport), it is better to submit with a good grace. By a little care and attention to this matter at first, the traveller may spare himself a world of vexation and inconvenience in the end. As a general rule, the utmost care should be taken of the passport ; since the loss of it will subject the stranger to much trouble, and may cause him to be placed imder the surveillance of the police. It should always be carried about the person, as it is liable to be constantly called for, and to preserve it from being worn out, it is convenient to have it bound up in a pocket-book, with blank leaves to receive signa- tures when the vacant spaces on the passport itself are covered. Before leaving England it is necessary to obtain a passport, which is generally procured from the minister of that countrj^ in which tlie tra- veller intends to land ; and it is very advisable to have it also vise, or counter-signed, by the ministers of those countries through which he proposes afterwards to pass. For instance, if he be going up the Rhine to Frankfort, and intend to land at Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, he must obtain a passport from the Dutch consul ; and as the banks of the Rhine above Nymegen belong to Prussia, he nuist secure the Prussian minister's signature to it. If he go by Calais, lie may get a French passport ; if by Ostend, a Belgian ; but, in either case, it must be counter-signed by the Prussian minister. A Prussian passport, or one l)caring a Prussian minister's or consul's signature, procures admittance for the bearer, without delay or difficulty, at any part of the Prussian frontier. Without it, he will probably be subjected to delay and inconvenience at the first Prussian town he reaches. The same rule of obtaining a signature of a minister should also be observed before entering the States of Austria — Russia — Bavaria — France — Holland — Belgium. With many it is indis2)ensable ; with all it is ad- visable. The usual process of obtaining a passport is to address a written or verbal application to the secretary of the ambassador, and to state the PASSPORTS. FRENCH. XiX Christian and surname, age, height, and address of the applicant. This must be left, one day in ailvance, at the house or office of the embass}'. The applicant must appear in j)c>'son the following day to receive his passport, which will be delivered to him, without fee, by the ambassador of France. A shilling, properly administered to the porter at the door, will often materially shorten the time during which the applicant is generally compelled to kick his heels in the ambassador's anteroom. Besides the ambassadors, the consuls of the different foreign powers issue or sign passports at their offices in the city, for which a charge oi Jive or sic shillings is made. The consuls deliver their pass- ports at once, without requiring that the application should be made the day before ; their offices are also open earlier than the ambas- sador's, usually from 10 or 11 to 4, thus nmch time is saved, which with many will be more than an equivalent for the payment of bs. Addresses of Foreign Consuls in London. France, 4. Tokenhouse Yard ; Belgium, 3. Copthall Court, Throg- morton Street ; Holland, 123. Fenchurch Street ; Prussia and the Rhine, 106. Fenchurch Street. English consuls abroad and French consids at British sea-ports (Dovor, Brighton, Southampton, &c.) can likewise issue passports. The different members of a family can have their names included in one passport, but friends travelling together had better provide them- selves with distinct passports. Male servants should also have sepa- rate passports, distinct from their masters'. N.B. — The signature, which the bearer of a passport must attach to it when it is delivered to him, ought to be written as clearly and distinctly as possible, that it may be easily read by the numerous functionaries through whose hands it is destined to pass, who are sometimes half an hour in deciphering an ill-written name, while the owner is wasting his patience at the length of the scrutiny. By this slight precaution the loss of many a quarter of an hour may be saved. Much delay and inconvenience may also be avoideil, by causing the full description of the person to be inserted in the passport at once : the want of it will excite suspicion in some foreign passport offices. French Passport. The only foreign passport which a British subject can obtain gratui- ionsli/ is that of the French ambassador, issued at the office, 6. Poland Street, Oxford Street, on the day after the first application has been made for it. The French passport must be backed by the ministers of Hollanil, Belgium, and Prussia, in order to be valid in those countries, and is taken away from the bearer on entering the Prussian domi- nions, to be exchanged for a Prussian passport, which sometimes occasions delay to the traveller. XX PASSPORTS. — PRUSSIAN. — AUSTRIAN. — BRITISH. Prussian Passport. The Prussian minister, residing in London, will not give passports to Englishmen, unless personally known, or especially recommended to him. There is no difficulty, however, in procuring one from the Prussian Consul-general, at his office, 106. Fenchurch Street, open every day from 10 to 4, upon payment of a fee of 6s., or even less in certain circumstances. Upon the whole, the passport of the Prussian Consul is the best that the English traveller, about to proceed to Ger- many and the Rhine, through Holland, or Belgium, or the Hanse Towns, can carry with him ; above all, it is not liable to be taken away at the Prussian frontier, which is the case with a French or Belgian passport, and neither Dutch nor Belgian ministers will refuse to countersign it. ," Austrian Passport. The Austrian Ambassador in London will neither give a passport to an Englishman, nor countersign any, except that issued by the British Secretary of State. For the traveller bound to any part of the Austrian dominions, or to Italy, the Austrian signature is absolutely indispensable, and it is there- fore a matter of necessity to obtain it, if not in London, at one of the great capitals on the Continent — at Paris, Brussels, the Hague, Frankfort, Carlsruhe, Berlin, Dresden, Berne in Switzerland, or Mu- nich — where an Austrian minister resides. The traveller must even go out of his wa)- to secure it, or else, when he arrives at the Austrian frontier, he will either be compelled to retrace his steps, or will be kept under the surveillance of the police, until his passport is sent to the nearest place where an English and Austrian ambassador reside, to be authenticated by the one, and signed by the other. An Englishman's passport ought also to be signed by his own minister at the first English embassj-. British Secretary of State's Passport. Those who do not grudge the considerable expense of 21. 7s., the price of an English Secretary of State's passport, may obtain one at the Foreign Office in London, provided they be personally known at the office, or can procure a written or personal recommcntlation from a banker, or other person of respectability who is well known there. The ciiief advantage attending it is that the bearer may obtain the Austrian Ambassador's signature before leaving England, and can thus obviate delay and trouble. At the same time it ought to be imderstood, that an ordinary pass- port, vise by the Prussian Minister in England, and l)y some Austrian minister abroad, is, with the above exception, as good as a Secretary' of State's, and those who have travelled with both have experienced little, if any, difference between them, deriving no extra benefit from the expenditure of 21. Is. PASSPORTS. COURIERS. XXl As however, there is much difference of opinion as to the value of the EngUsh Secretary of State's passport, the following note, from a tra- veller of great experience, is subjoined : — " I travelled with a Secretary of State's passport, vise by every ambassador, and I must say, I fancied I perceived an advantage. On the Rhine, at Frankfort, in Belgium, and Rhenish Prussia, a common passport will answer every purpose ; but on the frontiers of Hanover, Bohemia, ami Bavaria, and, generall}', in all places remote from the stream of English travellers, I think it was useful, both at the Post- house and searching place." — J. N.B. It is taken away on entering France, like any other passport, and the same in Russia ; indeed, for a traveller in Russia it is totally useless. Passport of Consuls at British Seaports 'and Foreign Seaports. The consuls of France residing at Dovor, Brighton, Southampton, and other British seaports, and his Britannic Majesty's consuls abroad, at Calais, Boulogne, Ostend, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Hamburg, &c., can give a passport to a British subject, but it is prudent to pro- vide one in London before setting out. The writer has been thus minute and precise in his details respecting the passport, because he knows how essential it is to the traveller to have this precious document en regie, and he has experienced the serious inconvenience to which those who are not aware of the necessary formalities are constantly exposed. e. COURIERS. . It is notorious that English senants taken for the first time to the Continent, and ignorant of every language but their own, are worse than useless — they are an encumbrance. The traveller who requires a servant at any rate, had better take a foreign one ; but he who speaks the language of the Continent himself, and will submit to the details of the coinage and the post books, may save himself much expense, by dispensing with a servant altogether. Thus the know- ledge of language becomes a great source of economy. A courier, however, though an expensive luxury, is one which conduces much to the ease and pleasure of travelling, and few who can afford one will forego the advantage of his services. He relieves his master from much fatigue of body and perplexity of mind, in unravelling the diffi- culties of long bills and foreign moneys, spai'ing his temper the trials it is likely to endure from disputes with innkeepers, postmasters, and the like. A courier, if clever and experienced, and disposed to con- sult the comfort of his employer, is a most useful person. His duties consist in preceding the carriage at each stage, to secure relays of post-horses on those routes where horses are scarce, or where the nmnber of travellers renders it difficult to procure them. This, how- ever, is seldom necessary, except where the travelling party is very XXU COURIERS. large, occupying several carriages, and requiring six' or eight horses, which may take an hour or two to collect at a post-house, and must often be brought in from the fields. He must make arrangements for his employer's reception at inns where he intends to pass the night ; must secure comfortable rooms, clean and well-aired beds, and order meals to be prepared. He ought to have a thorough knowledge of every thing that relates to the care of a carriage ; he should examine it at the end of each day's journey, to ascertain whether it requires any repairs, which should be executed before setting out ; and it is his fault if any accident occur en route, from neglect of such precautions. He should superintend the packing and unpacking of the luggage, should know the number of parcels, &c., and be on his guard against leaving any thing behind. It falls to the courier to pay innkeepers, postmasters, and postboys, and he ought to take care that his master is not overcharged. Besides this he performs all the services of waiting and attendance, cleaning and brushing clothes, &c. He ought to write as well as speak the language of the countries he is about to visit, so as to be able to communicate by letter with inn- keepers, if it be necessary to bespeak accommodation beforehand. From what has been stated above, it will be perceived that the master is greatly at the mercy of the courier, and that he ought, therefore, by all means to be " sharply looked after." As a further caution, we quote what follows from the Road-Book of Mr. Brocke- don, an excellent guide. " The faults of many of the couriers who offer their services to tra- vellers are numerous and serious : though the usual wages of ten or twelve Napoleons a month, to find themselves, be paid them, they live at the cost of the traveller, that is, they pay nothing at the inns ; but if this were all, it would be unimportant ; the fact is, that they regu- larly sell their families to certain innkeepers, to whom they are known on the road, and demand a gratuity proportioned to tiie number and stay of their party : this is recharged in some form upon the traveller. On the road, if a dishonest courier pay the postihons, he pockets something at each relay, generally from their remuneration, which in the course of a long journey becomes of a serious amount. The author, after having long submitted to systematic and customary peculation until it passed endurance, found, from the hoiu" that he parted with his com-ier, that the bills at the inns fell above twenty per cent, without previous arrangement ; and that the postilions were grateful and pleased for less than the courier said he had paid for their sei-vices when they were dissatisfied. Upon the author's remarking upon the difference in the amount of the bills at the inns, when he had a courier, and when he travelled with his family without one, he was assured by the innkeeper of Mayence, where the difference was first observed, that he hated and feared the couriers as a body, and infinitely preferred receiving a family without one ; for, after paying the courier's usual demand for bringing a family to his hotel, he was obliged to charge it in the amount of the bill, which often proved unsatisfactory to travellers : that if he refused to comply with such COURIERS. XXIU demands of the couriers, as they always preceded the arrival of the families they travelled vnth, they took them to other hotels, and re- ported to the association of couriers, which exists in Paris and other cities, the innkeeper who had refused compliance with their demands, and they punish him, by uniformly avoiding to reconmiend his house, or take there the families with whom they travel. However well a courier may know a city or place, he never acts as valet cle j^lace, un- less his family make purchases, when he never fails to be in attend- ance, to receive, afterwards, from the tradesman, a per centage, which he claims as agent, and which is charged indirectly in the bill." " It will scarcely occur once in the course of a week's journey that the peculiar service of a courier will be felt, that of obtaining relays of horses to be in readiness at the post station by the time the family arrive ; and he will rarely have opportunities of securing the progress of his employers by anticipating other travellers ; and when he does, it is by no means an uncommon thing for him to take a bribe to forego his claim to the horses which he has ordered. It is notorious that couriers are often smugglers, who conceal contraband articles about the carriage, and thus risk the property and liberty of their employers. There are, however, honest com-iers ; and when their services can be obtained they are truly valuable, especially to those who have never travelled before." — Brockedoii' s Road Book to Naples. " It is manifest, from the duties of a courier, that he has the tempt - ation and opportunity of being dishonest ; but so has every servant in whom confidence is placed, and to whom property is intrusted ; but it is as repugnant to our feelings, as it is at variance with our experience, to condemn couriers or any other class. There are honest and faithfiil couriers who not only protect their employers from the impositions of others, but vigilantly and indefatigably perform their duty in other respects. For the sake of servant and master we advise travellers to settle their couriers' accounts regularly and at short intervals, and to examine minutely the book of expenses. We have no hesitation in saying that, especially to a family, a good courier is invaluable in saving time, trouble, money, and loss of temper to his master." — Dr. S. The usual wages of a courier while travelling are from 8/. to 10/. a month, — if he be engaged for less than two months, he will probably expect 12/. ; if his services be retained while his master is stationary in a place, he ought not to expect more than 6/., supposing his engage- ment to last for ten or twelve months. Couriers are to be heard of at Xo. 7. Old Compton-Street, Soho, and Xo. 11. Panton Square, IG Hamburg Shillings = to 1 Marc. ■ 21 fiood Groschen or 30 Silver Groschcn 3 (50 Kreutzers =: to 1 Florin. •• 20 Stivers =: to 1 Guilder. ' 100 Vcnetiaa Cents = to 1 Lira. to 1 Thaler. Table A. Money of various States on the Continent of Europe. Austria.3 Frankfort.3 Holland.'' ■ Venetian France.* 1 Bavaria. Lombardj-.' Fl. Kr. Fl. Kr. Gui. Stiv. Lira. Cts. Fr. Cts. 2i 3 1 12^ 10i»: 5 6 2 25 23{a n 9 3 371 31-iC 10 12 4 50 4if; 12^ 15 5 ; 621 52,1, 15 18 6 75 62f, 171 21 1 7 8-1 72^ 20 24 8 83^ 22i 27 9 121 93,^ 25 30 10 25 1 Vi 27^ 33 11 3-1 1 14< 30 36 12 50 1 25 1 1 12 1 4 3 2 50 1 30 1 48 1 16 4 50 3 75 2 2 24 2 8 6 5 2 30 3 3 7 50 6 25 3 3 36 3 12 9 7 50 3 30 4 12 4 4 10 50 8 75 4 4 48 4 16 12 10 4 30 5 24 5 8 13 50 11 25 5 6 6 15 12 50 5 30 6 36 6 12 16 50 13 75 6 7 12 7 4 18 15 6 30 7 48 7 16 19 50 16 25 7 8 24 8 8 21 17 50 7 30 9 9 22 50 18 75 8 9 36 9 12 24 20 8 30 10 12 10 4 25 50 21 25 9 10 48 10 16 27 22 50 9 30 11 24 11 8 28 50 23 75 10 12 12 30 25 20 24 24 60 50 30 36 36 90 75 40 48 48 120 100 50 60 60 150 125 60 72 72 180 150 70 84 84 210 175 80 96 96 240 200 90 108 108 270 225 100 120 120 300 250 200 240 240 600 500 300 360 360 900 750 400 480 480 1200 O 1000 500 600 600 l.iOO 12.50 6 100 French Cents = to 1 Franc. If more be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale.it will be so much gain bv the exchange : if less, it will be so much loss. (This is not for the iise of merchants, but travellers.) Table B. PRUSSIAN MONEY, Reduced to its Value at par in the Money of — % § ■cLo Cog ill Ph in Saxony. Rix. Dollars of 24 good Groschen. Frankfort, Nassau, Bavaria, SfC. Florins of 60 Kreutzers. France. Francs containing 100 Centime*, SwUxerland. Francs of 10 Batz. England. Pound Sterling of 20 Shillings, or 240 Pence. Th. G. Rt. Gros. Fl. Kr. Fr. C. Fr. B. £. s. d. — 1 2 — 2 1 IH — 7 — 12 25 — -,8 1,7 — — — 3 — 2j't — lOi — 37 — 2,5 — — H — 4 — 3^ — . 14 — 49 — 3,3 — — 4 — 5 — 3^ — 17i — 62 — 4,2 — — 5| — 6 — 4J4 — 21 — 74 — 5,- — — 7 — 7 — Sy't — 24i — 87 — 5,8 — — 8^ — 8 — 6^ — 28 — 99 — 6,7 — — H — 9 10 — GM 7^4 — 31* 35 1 1 11 23 z 7,5 8,3 — — m ii§ — 20 — 15#i 1 10 2 46 1 6,6 — 1 lu 1 22f 1 45 3 69 2 4,9 __ 2 11 2 — 1 21f 3 30 7 39 4 9,9 — 5 10 3 — 2 20^ 5 15 11 8 7 4,8 — 8 9 4. — 3 19^ 7 — 14 78 9 9,7 11 8 5 — 4 18f 8 45 18 47 12 4,7 14 7 6 — 5 17^ 10 30 22 17 14 9,6 — 17 6 7 — 6 16 12 15 25 86 17 4,5 1 — 5 8 — 7 14f 14 — 29 55 19 9,5 1 3 4 9 — 8 13f 15 45 33 25 22 4,4 1 6 3 10 9 124 17 30 36 94 24 9,4 1 9 2 •20 — 19 Ul 35 — 73 88 49 8,7 2 18 4 30 — 28 13-^ 52 30 110 82 74 8,1 4 7 6 40 -1 38 22 70 — 147 76 99 7,4 5 16 8 50 — 47 14f 87 30 184 71 124 6,7 7 5 10 60 57 3^ 105 __ 221 65 149 6,1 8 15 _ 70 — • 66 15 122 30 268 59 174 5,5 10 4 2 80 — 76 4| 140 — 295 53 199 4,8 11 13 4 90 — 85 m 157 30 332 47 224 4.2 13 2 6 100 — 95 5} 175 — 369 41 249 3,5 14 11 8 Table C. SAXON MONEY, Reduced to its Value at par in the Coins of 111 Is Frankfort, Nassau, Bavaria, SjC. Florins of 60 Kreutzers. France. Francs of 100 Centimes. Sivitzerland. Francs of 10 Batz. Prutsia. Dollars of 30 Silver Groschen. England, Pounds Sterling of 20 Shillings, or 240 Pence. Rt G. Fl. Kr. Fr. C. Fr. B. Th. Gr, £. s. d. — 1 2 — 9 — 16 — 1 32 — 1,1 2,2 — 1,3 2,6 — — H 3 — 3 — 13i — ' 49 — 3,3 — 3,9 — — H — 4 — 18 — 65 — 4,4 — 5,2 — — 6 — o — 22^ — 81 — 5,4 — 6,6 — — 7| — 6 — 27 — ; 97 — 6,6 — 7,9 — — 9 — 7 — 31^ 1 13 — 7,6 — 9,2 — ~~" lOi — 8 — 36 1 29 — 8,7 — 10,5 — 1 — " _ 9 — 40i 1 ' 45 — 9,8 — 11,8 — 1 1^ — 10 45 1 1 62 1 -,9 — 13,1 — 1 3 — 20 1 30 3 . 23 2 1,8 — 26,3 — 2 6 1 ___ 1 48 3 1 88 2 6,2 1 1,5 __ 3 __ 2 — 3 36 7 76 5 2,4 2 3,- — 6 — 3 — 5 24 11 ! 64 7 8,5 3 4:,5 — 9 — 4 — 7 12 15 ! 52 10 4,7 4 6,- — 12 — 5 — 9 — 19 39 13 -,9 5 7,5 — 15 — 6 10 48 23 27 15 7,1 6 9 — 18 — 7 12 36 27 ' 15 18 3,3 7 10,5 1 1 — 8 — 14 24 31 3 20 9,5 8 12 1 4 ■ 9 — 16 12 34 91 23 5,6 9 13,5 1 7 10 18 38 79 26 1,8 10 15 1 10 20 — 36 77 58 52 3,6 21 — 3 — — 30 — 54 — 116 36 78 5,4 31 15 4 10 — 40 — 72 — 155 15 104 7,3 42 — 6 — — 50 — 90 — 193 94 130 9,1 52 15 7 10 60 _^ 108 232 73 157 -,9 63 9 — — - 70 — 126 — 271 52 183 2,7 73 15 10 10 — 80 — 144 — 310 30 209 4,5 U — 12 — — 90 — 162 — 349 9 235 6,4 94 15 13 10 — 100 — ISO — 387 88 261 8,2 105 — 15 — — Table D. MONEY OF NASSAU, FRANKFORT, BADEN, WIRTEMBERG, BAVARIA, &c. FLORINS (at the Rate of 24 to the Mark of Silver) reduced to the Value at par of the Money of France. Zngland. .-3 S Switzerland. Prussia. Saxony. 1 Florins pied de of ) Kreutz Franrs of 100 Centimes. Francs of 10 Batz. Dollars courant of 30 Silver Rix-doUars of 24 Groschen. Founds Sterling of 20 Sliillings, or 1 ® Grosclien. 240 Pence. Fl. Kr. Fr. c. Fr. B. T. Gr. T. Gr je. s. i ^^ 1 4 -,2 -,3 __ -,2 _i ■ 3 __ 2 — 7 — -,5 -,6 — -,4 — — _2 a' __ 3 11 — -,7 -,9 — -,7 — — 1 4 — 14 — 1,- 1,1 — -.9 — — n 5 — 18 — 1,2 1,4 — 1,1 — — ^ G — 22 — 1,5 — 1,7 — 1,3 — — 2 7 — 25 — 1,7 — 2,- — 1,6 — — 2^ — 8 — 29 — 1,9 — 2,3 — 1,8 — — H 9 — 32 — 2,1 2,6 — 2,- — — 3 — 10 — 36 — 2,4 — 2,9 — 2,2 — — 3^ 20 — 72 — 4,8 — 5,7 — 4,4 — — 6| __ 30 1 8 — 7,3 — 8,6 — 6,7 — — 10 __ 40 1 44 — 9,7 11,4 — 8,9 — 1 H — 50 1 80 1 2,1 — 14,3 — 11,1 — 1 n 1 2 15 1 4,5 __ 17,1 _ 13,3 1 8 2 4 31 2 9,1 1 4,3 1 2,7 — 3 4 3 6 46 4 3,6 1 21,4 1 16,- — 5 _ 4 8 62 5 8,2 2 8,6 2 5,3 — 6 8 5 10 77 7 2,7 2 25,7 2 18,7 — 8 4 6 12 93 8 7,3 3 12,9 3 8,- — 10 _ 7 15 8 10 1,8 4 — 3 21,3 — 11 8 8 17 24 11 6,4 4 17,1 4 10,7 — 13 4 9 19 39 12 -,9 5 4,3 5 — — 15 - 10 „.— 21 55 14 5,5 5 21,4 5 13,3 — 16 8 20 43 10 29 -,9 11 12,9 11 2,7 1 13 4 30 64 Q5 43 6,4 17 4,3 16 16,- 2 10 - 40 86 20 58 1,8 22 25,7 22 5,3 3 6 8 50 107 74 72 7,3 28 17,1 27 18,7 4 3 4 60 129 29 87 2,7 34 8,6 33 8,- 5 — - 70 150 84 101 8,2 40 — 38 21,3 5 16 8 80 172 39 116 3,7 45 21,4 44 10,7 6 13 4 90 — 193 94 130 9,1 51 12,9 50 — 7 10 - 100 — 215 49 145 4,6 57 4,3 55 13,3 8 6 8 Table E. To reduce KRON THALERS (Dollars of Brabant, or Crowns) to Florins. K. T. Fl. Kr. K.T. Fl. Kr. K.T. Fl. Kr. 1 2 42 36 97 12 71 191 42 2 5 24 37 99 54 72 194 24 3 8 6 38 102 36 73 197 6 4 10 48 39 105 18 74 199 48 5 13 30 40 108 75 202 30 6 16 12 41 110 42 76 205 12 7 18 54 42 113 24 77 207 54 8 21 36 43 116 6 78 210 56 9 24 18 44 118 48 79 213 18 10 27 — 45 121 30 80 216 — 11 29 42 46 124 12 81 318 42 12 32 24 47 126 54 82 221 24 13 35 6 48 129 36 83 224 6 14 37 48 49 132 18 84 226 48 15 40 30 50 135 — 85 229 30 16 43 12 51 137 42 86 232 12 17 45 54 52 140 24 87 234 54 18 48 36 53 143 6 88 237 36 19 51 18 54 145 48 89 240 18 20 54 — 55 148 30 90 243 — 21 56 42 56 151 12 91 245 42 22 59 24 51 153 54 92 248 24 23 62 6 58 156 36 93 251 6 24 64 48 59 159 18 94 253 48 25 67 30 60 162 — 95 256 30 26 70 12 61 164 42 96 259 12 27 72 54 62 167 24 97 261 54 28 75 36 63 170 6 98 264 36 29 78 18 64 172 48 99 267 18 30 81 — 65 175 30 100 270 __ 31 83 42 66 178 12 101 272 42 32 86 24 67 180 54 102 275 24 33 89 6 68 183 3G 103 278 6 34 91 48 69 186 18 104 280 48 35 94 30 70 189 — 105 283 1 SO NEW GUIDES TO THE CONTINENT. In the Press, to be published in June 1838. A HAND-BOOK for TRAVELLERS in SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, and PIEDMONT. Post 8vo. AtSO, ^ A HAND-BOOK for TRAVELLERS in NORTHERN EUROPE — in DENMARK— SWEDEN — NORWAY — and RUSSIA. PostSvo. Lately published, The HAND-BOOK for TRAVELLERS upon the CONTINENT. PartIL— being a GUIDE in SOUTHERN GERMANY— BAVARIA —AUSTRIA — TYROL— SALZBURG — the AUSTRIAN and BA- VARIAN ALPS, and the DESCENT of the DANUBE from ULM to the BLACK SEA. Post 8vo, 9s. Qd. Mrs. STARKE'S TRAVELS in EUROPE, for the Use of Travellers on the Continent, and complete G UIDE for ITALY and SICILY. Ninth Edition, thoroughly revised, augmented, and corrected in the Course of several Journeys made by the Authoress in Person. With many new Routes, and an entirely new 3Iap. Post 8vo., stoutly bound, 15*. ERRATA. Page 221. coL ii. for " Kiiningen," read " Konige." 241. col. ii. for " Dome," read " Doiti." 296. There is a steam boat on the Elbe between Hamburg and Magdeburg. 296. col. i. 1. 17. from the bottom, for " vinegar," read " cider." PLAN OF THE HAND-BOOK, ABBREVIATIONS, &c. Tlie points of the Compass are often marked simply by the letters N. S» E. W. (rt.) right, (/. ) left, — applied to the banks of a river. Tiie right bank is that which lies on the right hand of a person whose back is turned towards the source, or the quarter from which the current descends. Miles. — Distances are always reduced to English miles, except when foreign miles are expressly mentioned. The names of Inns precede the description of every place, (oflen in a parenthesis,) because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge. Instead of designating a town by the vague words "large" or "small," the amount of the population, according to the latest census, is almost inva- riably stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the place. In order to avoid repetition, the Routes through the larger states of Europe are preceded by a chapter of preliminary information ; and to facili- tate reference to it, each division or paragraph is separately numbered with Arabic figures. Each Route is numbered with Roman numerals, corresponding with the figures attached to the Route on the Map, which thus serves as an Index to the Book ; at the same time that it presents a tohrahly exact view of the great high roads of Europe, and of the course of public conveyances. The Map is to be placed at the end of the book. A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. SECTION I. HOLLAND. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION'. , Passports, — 2. Money. — 3. Custom House. — 4. Travelling in Holland : Roads, Posting, and Diligences. — 5. Travelling hij Water, Trekscliuit. — 6. Water. — 7. Inns. — 8. General View of Holland. — 9. Dykes 10. Canals. — 11. Polders. — 12. Dunes. — 13. Gardens and Summer Hotises. — 14. Dutch School of Painting ; Picture Galleries in Holland. —IS. Some Peculiarities of Dutch Manners. (In the tables of contents throughout tliis book the names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where they are described.) ROUTE I. II. London to Rotterdam Rotterdam to Amsterdam, by Delft, the Hague, Leyden, and Haarlem - III. Amsterdam to Broek and Soar dam IV. Haarlem to the Helder, and back to Amster- dam - V. Amsterdam to Utrecht and J^ymegen VI. Amsterdam to Arnheim - VII. Amsterdam to Gronitigen and Frederichsoord PAGE 20 24 52 - 56 66 PAGE 69 70 ib. 71 VIII. Amsterdam to Bremen - IX. Rotterdam to Utrecht - X. Tlie Hague to Utrecht - Xr. Utrecht to Arnheim XII. The RHINE IN HOLLAND(A)i6. Rotterdam to Nymegcn by the Waal Branch - 72 Rotterdam to Arnheim by the Leek Branch 75 N. B. The Rhine from Nymegcn to Cologne and Mayence is described under the head of Germany. I. PASSPORTS. Persons going direct to Rotterdam, or any otlier Dutch port, must obtain a passport from the Dutch consul, 123. Fcnchurch Street, wlio makes a charge of OS. ; or if provided with another passport, they must, at least, secure a Dutch minister's signature to it. 2 1. PASSPORTS. — 2. MONEY. Sect. I. One of the routes most commonly taken by travellers, is that by Holland, up the Rhine, returning through Belgium, or by Belgium returning through Holland ; but at present, while the differences between Holland and Belgiimi are still unsettled, a passport of the one country will on no account be admitted in the other, and neither of the respective ministers will sign a passport issued by the other. They who desire to visit both countries had better take either an English Secretary of State's passport, or a Prussian consuVs passport, which the two ministers will not object to countersign. Even then, in order to go from the one country into the other, they must be provided with a special per- viission to pass the outposts on the frontiers, from the Prince of Orange, at the Hague, and the Belgian authorities at Brussels. The English ministers at the two courts will procure such an order for any of tlieir countrymen who desire it, and will also exchange a Belgian or Dutch passport for an English one, to enable a British subject to proceed on his journey. The permission requested by the ambassador is forwarded by post to the frontier, awaiting the traveller's arrival. Delays, however, constantly occur in the trans- mission of it. Hired carriages belonging to either of the two countries must be changed at the frontier. 2. MONEY. Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. The Guilder or Dutch florin, is worth Is. 8d. English. It is divided into 20 stivers, and into 100 cents: 1 stiver = 5 cents, is worth 1 penny English. Cents. Stivers, j. d. Silver Coins.— The guilder (or Dutch florin) = 100 = 20 = 1 8 ^ guilder (a very common coin) = 25 = 5 = 5 L guilder, or dubbeljtie = 10= 2 = 2 Jg guilder = 5=1=01 Ducatoon = 315 = 63 = 5 3 S-guilder pieces = SOO = 60 = 5 O Zealand (Zeeuwsche) rixdollar = 260 = 52 = 4 4 Rixdollar = 250 = 50 = 4 2 Dollar (daalder) = 150 = 30 = 2 6 Achtentwintig = 140 = 26 = 2 4 £ s. d. Gold Coins — The "William (Willem) = 10 guilders =0 17 ^ Willem = 5 guilders =086 The following are less common : — The gold ryder = 14 guilders =13 4 i gold ryder = 7 guilders =011 8 Ducat = 5 guilders 5 stivers =089 The current value of the ducat changes with the value of gold. Travel- lers ought, therefore to provide themselves only with Williams, which are the newest gold coins : they have also the advantage of being current all over Germany. .£30 = 35^ Williams, after deducting commission. The difference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, a Dutch and Belgium coin, is the ^^j of a guilder, or of Is. St/. Centime, a French coin, is the-^g part of a franc, or of lOd. The cent is nearly equal to 2 centimes, and is worth about -I of a penny English. Travellers should provide themselves with Dutch money at Rotterdam, or at the first town of Holland they enter, as French coins are not current here, as they are in Belgium. Dutch money is current also in Belgium, and up the Rhine as far as Cologne. Holland. 3. custom house. — 4-. trav£lling ik Holland. 3 3. CUSTOM-HOUSE. The Dutch custom-house officers are usually civil, and by no means trou- blesome in examining the baggage of persons not travelling with merchan- dize. A small fee here, as elsewhere, may expedite and tend to lighten the search in the traveller's portmanteau, but civility and a readiness to lay open the baggage is better still. 4. TRAVELLING IS HOLLAND. ROADS, POSTING, DILIGENCES, AND MAP. Posting. — The posting regulations introduced into Holland by the French, still remain in force, and are nearly identical with those adopted in France and Belgium. The charges fixed by the Tarif (1834), are 70' cents for every horse per post, making 1 guilder 41 5 cents for 2 horses, and 2 guilders 12^ cents for 3 horses per post. The postilion is entitled to 35j cents per post ; but, as in France, is restricted to the sum which the law allows only wlieu he has not given satisfaction to his employers. Half a post more than the real distance must be paid on entering and quitting the Hague and Amsterdam. Where the roads are bad, the postmaster is allowed to attach an extra horse to carriages : in some cases, in winter oidy ; in others throughout the year. Disputes about charges and distances may be settled by reference to the New Post-book published in 1834 by the Dutch Government, entitled, Afstandswijzer voor de Stations der Koninklijke Nederlandsche Paardenposterij. The traveller in Holland is at liberty, if he pleases, to demand the strict observance of the laws contained in the post-book, regarding the number of horses and the charges for them. But custom is somewhat at variance with the post book ; and it is the common practice to charge one guilder for each horse per post, and to give one guilder also to the postilion. This is much dearer than the tarif, but to make up for it, the traveller is not bound to take the number of horses required by the tarif, but a party of 4 or 5 may be drawn by 2 horses instead of 3. The Dutch post is somewhat less than 5 English miles. The Dutch league (ure gaans), or the distance a man will walk in an hour, is 5353 metres = 3^ English miles. Diligences On all the great roads, numerous rfi^CTice* run several times a day. They are very precise in the time of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by government. The best are those of Van Gend and Co. ; tliey are roomy and convenient, and travel at the rate of about C miles an hour. If more persons apply for places than can be accommo- dated in the coach, an additional carriage, or " by-chaise," is prepared, by which the passenger may proceed at the same rate of fare as by the main diligence. '• A hired carriage, or glaswagen, capable of holding 6 persons and a ser- vant, from Amsterdam to Rotterdam, by Leyden, costs upwards of 40 guilders, including tolls and all expences, except a gratuity of 3 or 4 guilders to the driver, who provides for himself and horses. A caleche costs less." — JT. .V. T. The average expense of a hired carriage and horses is about ;|^th less than in England. lioads. — In the central provinces of Holland, which are most visited by the English, the roads are excellent ; in those more remote, such as Friesland, Drenthe, Groningen, Overyssel, they are wretchedly bad, and, in wet weather, barely passable. As there are no stones in a large part of Holland, it may naturally excite wonder that there any roads at all : but the want of stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of brick, or clinker, which after the B 2 4 5. TKAVELLING BY WATER. TREKSCHUITEN. ScCt. I. foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgewise close together, and the interstices are filled with sand, so as to make a hard, smooth, and level high- way, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road is about 17,000 guild,, more than HOO/. per English mile. As all heavy goods are conveyed by water, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost entirely by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on the tops of the dykes ; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least the appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. The tolls are very high, sometimes equalling in one stage the expense of one post-horse. A carriage with 4 wheels and 2 horses pays from 6 to 8 stivers at each turnpike; and atoll generally occurs every 3 miles English. The passage mcney for crossing ferries is also high. The best English Map of Holland and Belgium, is that published by Jlr. John Arrowsmith in 1835. The best foreign map is that of Casparus MuUer. 5. TRAVELLIN'G BY WATER. TREKSCHUITEN. The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and afford the most abundant means of conveyance in every direction, and from all the larger towns, several times a day. Barges, called trekschuiten {dnic/-boats), navigate the canals, and convey passengers and goods ; they are divided into two parts ; the fore-cabin called ridm, appropriated to servants and common people ; and the after-cabin, or roc/ (roof) set apart for the better classes, and a little more expensive; it is smaller, and will contain 10 or 12 persons. It is generally fitted up with neat- ness, and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use. It must however be understood that Dutch people of any station rarely resort to the trekschuit. The towing horse is ridden by a lad (het jagertie), who receives a few cents at each stage ; and is well paid with a stiver. It is amusing to observe how quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the towing-rope, and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. The advantages of the trekschuit are principally its cheapness. The usual cost of travelling by it is about a stiver a mile, and these are the charges between some of the principal towns : — Leyden to Haarlem - 1 guilder Haarlem to Amsterdam - 15 stivers Amsterdam to Utretcht - 25 ditto Rotterdam to Delft - 10 stivers Delft to Hague - - 14 ditto Hague to I^eyden - 11 ditto Its disadvantages are, — 1st, That being drawn by one horse only, it does not travel faster tiian 4 miles an hour. 2dly, Though the banks of the canal are often enlivened by gardens and villas, yet it sometimes happens that they are so high as to shut out all view, which is very tiresome and monotonous. 3dly, Though separated from the other cabin by a partition, the tenant of the roof is liable to be annoyed by tobacco smoke, and the sometimes boisterous mirth of his fellow-travellers in the ruim : and, 4thly, The trekschuit almost invariably stops on the outside of the town to which it is bound, and doi.s not enter it. Hence you have sometimes to walk more than a mile to reach an inn, and are compelled to intrust your luggage to porters, who, though tliey do not deserve the character of thieves, which Mrs. Starke lias bestowed on them, at least are most exorbitant in their cliarges ; so that you are comjielled to pay sometimes twice as much for the carriage of a portmanteau and bag into a town as for the whole passage by the boat. Holland. 6. water. — ^7. inns. — 8. view of Holland. 5 Still, notwithstanding all these desngrcmens, for the mere novelty of the thing, no one shoultl visit Ilolhmd witiiout making trial of tliis, tlie national conveyance. Even those wiio travel in their own carriage should send it round by the road, and take tlieir passage in a trekschiiit for one stage, either from Delft to the Hague, or the Hague to Leyden, or Amsterdam to Haarlem. The communication is kept up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places by trekschuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest punctuality; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, lie runs a risk of losing his passage. 6. WATER. In the provinces of Holland, bordering on the sea, the water is gene- rally very bad, not drinkable; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether, except externally, or they may suffer from bowel complaints, and be delayed on their journey. In many parts, good drinking water is brought in large stone bottles from Utrecht ; so that Utrecht water must be asked for at inns. As a substitute for spring water, the effer- vescent waters of Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachingen, all coming from the Brunnen of Nassau, are much drunk at meals : a large bottle costs about 5d. A very agreeable beverage is formed by mixing these waters with Rhenish or Moselle wine and sugar : some consider red Bordeaux wine with a little lemon juice and sugar added to the Seltzer water, a more palatable drink. 7. INNS. Holland is an expensive country to live in ; the wages of labour and taxes are very high ; the inns are consequently very dear, nearly as dear as in England. Notwithstanding which, they are on the whole, inferior to those of most other countries of Western Europe. " Having entered Holland, tiie traveller must be prepared for extortion ; during his stay in Holland, he must expect but little civility." These are the words of the author of " Dates and Distances ;" and the editor of the present work has met witli many examples confirmatory of the remark, though there are, of course, exceptions. Dutch inns and beds are, however, generally clean- Charges. — A bed -room, which may also be used as a sitting room, costs, on an average, from 1 to 3 guilders ; dinner at the table d'hote, li to 2 guilders ; ditto in private, 2 to 3 guilders ; breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 cents. 8. A GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. There is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an intelligent traveller than Holland. Although so near our coasts, and so easily accessible, it is seldom explored by the English, but rather passed over by them in their haste to reach the picturesque scenes of the Rhine and Switzerland. The attractions of Holland are certainly of a different kind; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, that whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his tour, he will be equally sure to find in it what is to be seen nowhere else. The routes from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, and thence to Cologne, de- scribed in the following pages, mui/ he fidhj explored in a forttiight ; and there is certainly no road in Europe which in so small a space has so many curiosities to show, and upon which lie so many cities, great in commerce and renowned in history. As a country to reside in, Holland appears hardly endurable: but for a journey of two weeks tlie universal flatness and the monotony of scenery are not tiresome. The aspect of the country is too strange to fatigue. a S 6 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Sect. I. A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of tlie mud deposited by the Rhine and other rivers, in the same manner as the Delta of Egypt has beea formed l)y tlie Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued from tlic water, to whose dominion it rnay almost be said to btlong, by the continual efforts and ingenuity of man, and in a long series of years. INIuch of it is mud driven up by the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of the coast. Were human agency and care removed but for six months, the waves would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion, —— so much of the land lies below the level of the sea ; and an extensive tract of tlie country would be reduced to tlie state of those vast wastes, comjjosed of sand and mud-banks, quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of the Nile and Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained by such difficulty, and preserved with constant watchfulness from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, inundated by their owners during their contests w-ith foreign foes ; and Dutch patriotism has not hesitated to 5uljjcct the land to temporary ruin in the desire of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the sluice-gates, which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanisli tyranny, was a desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing beggary for some years upon a large portion of the population, owing to the length of time and the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea required. This glorious sacrifice, however, served to show that it needs not the moun- tains of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol, to enable a brave people to defend their native land. Holland may be considered in many respects, as the most wonderful country, perhaps, under the sun : it is certainly unlike every otlier. What elsewhere would be considered as impossible, has here been carried into effect, and incongruities have been rendered consistent. " The house built upon the sand" may here be seen standing ; neither Amsterdam nor Rot- terdam has any better foundation than sand into which piles are driven through many feet of superincumbent mud. We speak contemptuously of any tiling which is held together by straws, yet a long line of coast of several provinces is consolidated by no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw wisps, or woven into mats. Without this frail but effectual support, the fickle dunes, or sand-hills, would be driven about into the in- terior, and would overwhelm wliole districts of cultivated land. In Holland the laws of nature seem to be reversed ; the sea is higlier than the land ; the lowest ground in the country is 24: feet below high-water mark, and, wlien the tide is driven high by the wind, 30 feet ! There ace few other countries where, as in this corner of the globe, the keels of the ships are above the chimneys of the houses, and where tlie frog, croaking from among the bul- rushes, looks down upon the swallow on the Iiouse-top. Where rivers take their course, it is not in beds of their own choosing ; they are compelled to pass through canals, and are confined within fixed bounds by the stupendous mounds imjiosed on them by human, art, which has also succeeded in over- coming the everywhere else resistless impetuosity of the ocean : here, and nowhere else, does the sea appear to have half obeyed the command, " Thus far shalt thou go, and no further." In a very extensive district, the canals are brimful of water, w^hich can liardly stir, and, when in motion, moves with a current barely perceptible. There is not a stone or pebble to be found, and there are no hills, save such as are raised by the winds ; unless, indeed, we take into consideration tliose vast urtijiciul mountains of granite, which have been brought at enormous Holland. 8. general view of Holland. 7 expense from Norway and Sweden, and sunk under water to serve as barriers to the sea. Excepting tlie eastern provinces, the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, and the avenues leading from one city to another, the land docs not produce much wood : but then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud in the shape of piles. In almost every respect, nature appears in the character of a hard-hearted stepmother: man seems but little bcliolden to her; he has done every thing for himself. Is it then to be wondered at that she should be forgotten, or at least kept out of sight ? Thus, where trees occur, they are found growing, not in tiie natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet and line, in rank and file, in straight rows and avenues. Tlieir branches are not allowed to spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they arc transformed into green walls, or are even trained into more gro- tesque shapes. 15y way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and lower branches are not unfrequently painted over with bright colours in North Holland, partly for the sake of cleanliness, partly to preserve them from insects. The Dutchman may be said to have made even the wind his slave. It might be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those ele- vations which afford shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of every blast that blows, to sweep every thing before it. So far is this from being the case, that not a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, as it were, by turning a windmill. Tliese machines are so numerous, that they may be said to be never out of sight in a Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities, they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their broad arms, as if to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely used except to grind corn : in Holland they are employed almost as variously as the steam-engine ; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, &c. ; but the principal service which they perform is in draining the land ; and here the Dutch have most inge- niously set the wind to counteract the water. At least one half of the windmills have water-^>heels attached to them, which act as pimips, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, a single windmill can raise water only 3 feet at once, 3 or 4 are often planted in a row : they are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us : a single sail is often 1 20 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. To sum up all, to such an extent do paradoxes prevail in Holland, that even tlie cows' tails, in other countries proverbial for growing downwards, and descending fn the world as they advance in age, here grow upwards : for, witii the view of promoting tlie cleanliness of the animal while in the stall, the tail is tied uj) to a ring in the roof of the stable. This may be seen in Broek and elsewhere in Holland. (.See Route III.) Many authors have exercised their wit or spleen in describing this singular country. Thus, Voltaire took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic words: "Adieu! canaux, canards, canaille." The following verses are selected from the works of Andrew ]\Iarvel : — *' Holland, that scarce deserves the name of land, As but the ofTscouring of the British sand, And so much earth as was contril)uted By English pilots when they hcav'd the lead ; B 4 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. ScCt. I. Or what by th' ocean's slow alluvion fell, Of shipwreck'd cockle and the muscle-shell ; This indigested vomit of the sea Fell to the Dutch by just propriety. " Glad, then, as miners who have found the ore. They, with mad labour, fish'd the land to shore, And dived as desperately for each piece Of earth, as if 't been of ambergris ; Collecting anxiously small loads of clay, Less than what building swallows bear away ; Or than those pills which sordid beetles roll. Transfusing into them tlieir dunghill soul. " How did they rivet with gigantic piles, Through the centre their new-catched miles! And to the stake a struggling country bound, "Where barking waves still bait the forced ground ; Building their watery Babel far more high To reach the sea, than tliose to scale the sky. " Yet still his claim the injur'd Ocean lay'd, And oft at leapfrog o'er their steeples play'd ; As if on purpose it on land had come To show them what's tlieir marc Uberum. A daily deluge over them does boil ; The earth and water play at level coil. The fish ofttimes the burgher dispossess'd, And sat, not as a meat, but as a guest ; And oft the tritons and the sea-nymphs saw "Whole shoals of Dutch served up for Cabillau ; Or, as they over the new level ranged, For pickled herring, pickled herring changed. Nature, it seem'd, ashamed of her mistake, "Would throw their land away at duck and drake." The author of Hudibras describes Holland as " A country that draws fifty feet of water. In wliicii men live as in the hold of nature, And when the sea does in upon them break, And drowns a province, does but spring a leak." And its inhabitants — " That always ply the pump, and never think They can be safe, but at the rate tiiey sink : That live, as if they had been run aground. And when they die, are cast away and drown'd : That dwell in ships like swarms of rats, and prey Upon the goods all nations' ships convey ; And when their merchants are blown up and crack, Whole towns are cast away in storm and wreck ; That feed like cannil)als on other fishes. And serve their cousin-germans up in dishes. A land that rides at anchor, and is moored. In which they do not live, but go aboard." — Butler. Holland. 9. dykes. Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To keep out the ocean from the sea-bound provinces, and prevent her ac- quiring territory which seems to be her own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and stone are raised along the coast, so broad and strong as to prevent the water passing through them, and sufficiently lofty to bid defiance to inundation at high tide. The rivers in many parts of the country are quite as dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to be restrained in their channels by dykes nearly as extensive as the sea-dykes. The first thing necessary in the construction of these bulwarks is, to secure a firm solid foundation, sufficiently strong to support the immense weight to be laid upon it ; by ramming down the soil, and by laying a sub- stratum of clay, or by driving in piles, when it is incoherent. Were the foundation weak and porous, the water would dissolve and undermine it, and the dykes sink down into a hollow. The rampart itself is composed of earth, sand, and clay, which will bind most firmly. The face of the dyke is protected by willow twigs interwoven so as to form a sort of wicker-work, and the interstices are filled up with clay puddled to render it compact. This wicker-work is renewed every three or four years, and occasions a considerable consumption of willow boughs, which are cultivated to a great extent for this purpose. The dykes are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and interlacing roots assist greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry, and protected by vast heaps of stones brought from a distance, and by rows of piles driven into the ground to form breakwaters to the fury of the waves ; the upper part is covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. " When seen only at one spot, they may probably not strike the merely cursory observer as very extraordinary ; but when it is recollected that the greater part of Holland is fenced in l)y similar bulwarks equally massive and costly, they will appear wonderful." — /. W. C. The most stupendous of these embankments are the Dykes of the Helder (see Route l^'. ), and of West Cappel, at the western extremity of the island of Wal- cheren. The annual expense of keeping in repair each of them, alone amounts to 75,000 guilders (about 6,400/.) ; while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in tlie repair of dykes and regulation of water-levels varies from 5,000,000 to 7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,000/.). A special corps of engineers, called icaterstaat, including among them many men of science, well skilled in the principles of hydrostatics, are employed entirely in watching the state of the waters and guarding against all accidents from irruptions, — a most important duty, upon which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of Holland may be said to depend. During the winter, they are stationed near tliose spots where danger is most to be apprehended, and magazines are erected, provided witli the necessary stores and implements, so as to be ready at a moment's notice. The winter is the season most liable to accidents, when it not unfrcquently happens that long prevailing S. W. winds, acting on the surface of the Atlantic, drive an accumulation of waters round the north of Scotland into the German Ocean. If these are succeeded by very violent tempests blowing from the N. W., the eflect is, to propel the sea with great violence southward through the British Channel : but the straits of Dover are too narrow to admit the augmented body of water readily to pass, and in consequence B 5 10 9. D^KEs. Sect. I. it falls back upon the coast of Holland. At such moments the " tall ocean" may truly be said ♦' to lean against the land," and the strength of the dykes alone preserves it from submersion. To guard against such an assault, the utmost energy, activity, and skill are required. Watchmen are posted day and night along the line of threatened attack, to give instantaneous warning if symptoms of weakness are anywhere observed in the ramparts ; and workmen are appointed by the authorities to be in readiness in the neigh- bouring villages. It may easily be imagined with what intense anxiety tlie rising tide is, at such times, observed. The accumulation of waters in the ocean causes them to ascend far above the ordinary high-water mark ; and if they only surmount the top of the dyke so as to flow over it, its ruin is inevitable. ■\Vhcn such a calamity is anticipated, the alarm bell is rung, and every man hastens to his post. AVith the utmost rapidity, an upper rampart is constructed upon the top of the dyke to keep out the waters. It is incredible in how short a time a bulwark of this kind is elevated ; it is a race between the tide and the embankment. If the strength and solidity of the dyke be doubtful, and a breach be apprehended, large sheets of sailcloth or mats of woven straw and rushes are laid on the outside, in the same manner as a leak is sometimes stopped in a ship. This prevents the earth's being washed away by the action of the waves. If all this be ineffectual, a course is pursued exactly similar to that employed in defending a breach made by artillery in the wall of a besieged fortress. A semicircular rampart is thrown up behind the part of the sea-wall which has shown symptoms of weakness, so that if the outer work be forced, an inner barrier, nearly as strong, stands ready prepared to resist the attack. It must be remembered that the works, raised at such an emergency, vast as they are, are only temporary, and arc removed whenever the danger is past. Instances are not rare in which these pre- cautions have proved quite ineffectual ; and whole districts have been over- whelmed and lost for ever in the SL-a, or in the Rhine and its branches. The greater part of tlie space now occupied by theZuider Zee was dry land down to the Xlllth century. The Gulf of Dollart, in the province of Gro- ningen, was the lesult of the inundation of 1277, which swallowed up 44 villages. Similar calamities have several times produced the same effects in that province. Even so late as 1717, 156"0 habitations disappeared beneath the waters of the ocean, which had broken its bounds. The Biesbosch, near Dorut, and tlie sandbanks near South Beveland, called Verdronken Land (drowned land^^, are two other examples of submerged districts. The annals of one province (Friesland), however, present the most extra- ordinary scries of disasters from tlie ocean, and these, better than any thing else, will serve to show by wliat an unstable tenure the Dutch hold the land. " Friesland was inundated in 533, 792, 806,839, 11C4, 1170, I'ilO, 1'22I, 1230, 1237 (this year the island called Vlieland, /. e. Lake-land, or land re- trieved from the water, was formed), 1248, 1249, 1250 (the consequence of this inundation was a pestilence, which destroyed several thousand persons), 1277 (this year the Gulf of Dollart was formed). In 1287 the Zuider Zee assumed its present extent and shape, and 80,000 persons lost their lives in the inundation. 1336, 1400, 1421, 1429, 1516, 1524 (three inundations in this year), 1530, 1532, 1559, 1570. On Nov. 1. an inundation occurred which covered even the heights called Wieren, and cut off, in diflerent parts of Holland, 100,000 persons, 30,000 of \> horn were Freislanders. From this year the inundations are less frequent; as an improved melhod of con- structing the dykes was then introduced by the Spanish governor lloblcs, Holland. 9. dykes. — 10. canals. 11 who, at the same time, passed a law that they should In future be kept up by tlie owners of the land. Those recorded since 1570, were in 1610, 1(575, 1717, 1776, and Feb. 5. 1825." — Gauthier, Votjagevr dans les Pays-Bas. If the extraordinary elevation of the sea fall out simultaneously with a sudden thaw, or occur after long-continued heavy rains, inundations even more serious arise, in the interior of the country, from the rivers bursting their embankments. " In the winter of 1808-9, a violent tempest from the north-west had raised the waters of the Zuider Zee some feet above the highest mark of the spring-tides, and the waves beat with unusual violence against the dykes constructed to break their fury. The thaw on the Upper Khine had increased the quantity and the force of its waters, which brought down masses of ice fourteen feet in height, and more than half a mile in length ; to wliich the embankments, softened by the tliaw, and somewhat injured, presented an insufficient barrier. A breach made in one part scon extended itself, and the torrent quickly coveied the country, bearing before it by its force the villages, the inhabitants, and the cattle. The heiglit of the Zuider Zee prevented the water from finding an outlet ; and it con- sequently remained on the ground for a long period, in spite of the exertions of the surviving inhabitants. By this event more than seventy houses were totally destroyed, a far greater number irretrievably damaged ; and of 900 families, more than 500 were rendered utterly destitute. More than 400 dead bodies were left on the borders of the current ; and at the city of Arnheim, 500 jjersons, mostly women and children, with many hundred head of cattle, were rescued from a waterj- grave by tlie hazardous heroism of the inhabitants, who ventured in boats to their rescue." — JacoVs Travels. The winter of 1824-5 was one of the most calamitous to the country known for many years. Amsterdam itself was threatened from the great height of the tides, which rose far above the usual level. The 1st of February, 1825, was a day of great anxiety: had the sea continued to rise a quarter of an hour longer, the dyke must have been overflowed, and, perliaps, have given way, and Amsterdam would have suffered a calamitous inun- dation. Fortunately, in a moment when the danger was greatest, the tide stopped, and the great pressure was immediately diminished and removed from the sea-wall : but the lower part of the town had already been laid imder water. The injuries done at that time in the province of Holland were immense ; but by Dutch industry all the damage was repaired witliin two years. The arms of one of tlie united provinces is a lion swimming, with the motto, Luctor, et emergo, '* I strive, and keep my head above water." It might be generally applied to the whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual struggle for existence against difficulties never to be entirely removed. The inliabitant of tlie provinces bordering on the sea, or the Rhine, constantly threatened with the danger of submersion, is not more secure tlian he who dwells on the side of Etna, or at the foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano heaving beneath him. A stranger can only have a full im- pression of this when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykes, and hears the roar of the waves on the outside, 16 or 20 ft. higher than his head. The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes kvied by commissioners appointed for the purpose. 10. CJ^KALS. Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it from a balloon, they would have the appearance of a network extendin.) In the suburbs are many places of entertainment, with gardens, not un- like tea-gardens in England, except that some of them are frequented by the higher classes of citizens, and ])ar- take of the nature of a club. Here are found billiard and ball rooms, skittle- grounds,refreshments of various kinds, and much smoking. There are several clubs here, where Englisli as well as continental news- papers are taken in : a stranger may be introduced^by a member, and generally by the master of the hotel. 'J'iiis was the native place of Adrian van der Werf, the painter. A ship canal has been cut across the isle of Voorn from Rotterdam to Helveotsluys, and by means of it the largest East and West Indiamen reach tlie sea in one day, avoiding the bar at the mouth of the Maas. Treltschuiten (§ 5.) start nearly every hour in the day, from Rotter- dam to Delft and the Hague : the fare to the Hague is not more than lid. English. JDiUgoiccs — for Utrecht and Ny- niegen (on the route to Cologne and up the Rhine) every morning. To the Hague, Leyden, Amsterdam, 5 or 6 times in the day. The fare to the Hague, 1 guilder 5 stivers ; to Amsterdam, about 6 guilders 50 cents. A steamboat ascends the Rhine to Nymegcn every morning in summer; every other morning during the rest of the year. (See Route XII.) The communication with Antwerp has been interrupted, in consequence of tlie hostilities between the two countiies. Previous to 18S0, there was not only a daily diligence between Rotterdam and Antwerp, but a steam- boat made the passage in 10 or 12 hours. — See Route XVIII. (§ 1.) Carriages holding a party of 5 or 6 may be hiied at Rotterdam, to convey travellers to Amsterdam or elsewhere, at the rate of about 22 guilders per diem (nearly \l. 17s. 6d.]. 2-t ROUTE II. — DELFT. Sect. I. ROUTE II. ROTTEUnAM TO AMSTERDAM. Posts. Eiig. Miles. By Hague 3 = 12 Leyden 2^ = 9| Postbrug l" = 5 Haarlem 2j = 12 Amsterdam ...2^ = 8 J Hi - 47| The direct road from Rotterdam to Amsterdam is by Voorburg and Post- brug, avoiding tlie Hague and Leyden, the distance by it is only 9f posts = ■40 English miles. Diligences go several times a day, both direct from Rotterdam to Amster- dam, and between the intermediate towns. Trekschuiten to Delft in 3 hours. The road to Delft is good, and pleasantly varied with villas and gar- dens ; it runs for a considerable dis- tance alongside of the canal, as, in- deed, is the case with most roads in Holland. It passes througli Overshie; and leaves Schiedam at a little distance on the left, "surrounded by windmills, and enveloped in everlasting smoke, rising from its distilleries of gin." Dei.ft. — Inn,Goudeii Molen (Gold- en INIill). On the Schie, 8 miles from Rotterdam, 15,000 inhabitants. Tins town, "the parent of pottery," has been supplanted, even in Holland itself, in its chief article of produce, to wliich it has given a name (Delft- ware), by the superior manufictures of Enghmd, and the improved taste introduced by Wedgwood in the mak- ing of pottery. All the earthenware now made here is of the coarser kind, and does not employ more than 200 persons. The streets appear so empty and dull, that it is difficult to imagine where inliabitants can be found to peojjle so many large and handsome houses. Still it contains enougli to amuse a traveller for an hour or two. 3Vi(' Neiv Church contains the mag- nificent monument, clustered with co- lumns and rich in marble, but in very bad taste, erected by the United Pro- vinces to the memSry of William I., prince of Orange, who was assassinated at Delft, 10th July, 1584. His statue in marble reclines upon the tomb ; and at his feet is the figure of his favourite little dog, whose affection saved his master's life from the midnight attack of some Spanish assassins, who had planned to murder him while asleep in his camp, near Mechlin, 1572. The Spaniards, advancing stealthily, under cover of the darkness, had nearly reached the tent, when the vigilance of the dog, whose instinct appears to have told him that they were enemies, detected their approach. He instantly jumped upon the bed, and, by barking violently, and tearing off the clothes with his teeth and feet, roused his mas- ter in time to enable him to escape. The faithful animal pined to death after his decease. The inscription on the tomb makes mention of the dog's attachment. There is a second and better statHe of the prince, under the arch at the head of the tomb, in a sit- ting posture. In the same church is tlie simple monument of Grotius, who was a native of Delft, and is interred in this spot. Ill the Old Church (Oude Kerk), which has a leaning tower, is the monu- ment of Admiral Tromp, the veteran of 32 sea-fights, who conquered the English fleet under Blake, in the Downs, 1652; and afterwards sailed througli the channel with a broom at his mast-head, to signify that he had swept the sea of the English. He was killed at last in an engagement, in which the English were victorious, between Schevening and the mouth of the INIaas. In the same church are buried Admiral Piet Hein, who cap- tured the Si)anisli silver fleet ; and Leeuwenhoek, the naturalist, also a native of Delft. The Grand Pen- sionary Heinsius, the friend and fel- low-councillor of ISIarlborough and Eugene, was also born licre. The house in which William Prince Holland. ROUT^ II. THE HAGUE. 25 of Orange was assassinated is not f;\r from the Old CIniich ; it is called tlie Prinxsenhof, and is now a barrack. After crossing the court, a small door on the right leads to ttio spot wliere the murder was committed. The identical staircase which he was about to ascend after dinner, and tlie passage where the murderer JJallhazar Geraarts stood, — so near to his victim, that the pistol must almost have touched his body, — will assuredly be looked upon with interest by every traveller. An in- scription on a stone, let into the wall, records the event, and three holes bored in another stone below it pass for the identical marks of the fatal bullets which killed him. He expired in the arms of his sister, and his wife (the daughter of Coligny, who had been murdered in a similar manner, and in her sigiit at the St. Bartholomew raas- cacre). The last words of the hero were, " Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, ayez pitie de moi et de ce pauvre pcuple ! " The principal military arsenal of Holland is at Delft. The distance from Delft to the Hague (about 4§ miles) may be plea- santly travelled on the canal ; and the trekschuit, for this short distance, will not prove a tiresome conveyance. The country is even more thickly spread over with cottages, villas, country seats and gardens (§ 13.) than on the other side of Delft; and has the same rich but monotonous dis- play of rural life. On the left appears the spire of the church of Ryswyk, near which the famous treaty of peace was signed (1697) between England, France, Holland, Germany, and Spain, in a house of the Prince of Orange, now removed ; its site is marked by an obelisk. 3. The Hague (La Have, in French: S'Gravenhage, in Dutch). Inns : — Hotd Bellcvue, near the park, conifortiible, and charges tolerably moderate : for bed- room, 2 fl. 50 c. ; dinner, 2 fl. ; tea, CO c. ; breakfast, 70 c. ; wax lights, 40 c. — Oude Doe- len ; Nietiwe Doelen ( Doel is the Dutch for the bull's eye in the target, derived from times when archery was the fa- vourite amusement, and the inn, of course, the place of resort when the contest was decided); JMarechal Tu- renne ; Keizershof (Imperial Hotel); Twe Steden (Two Towns); Heeren- logement (Gentleman's Lodging). The population is about 56,000. Though long the residence of the Stadholders, and now of the King of Holland, up to the beginning of the present century, the Hague ranked only as a village, because it had neither corporation nor walls, and did not re- turn members to the States Genei'al ; Louis Buonaparte, however, during his rule, conferred on it the privileges of a city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise to commerce or manufac- tures ; this to the residence of a court, the presence of the government and States General, and the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin may be traced to a hunt- ing-seat of the counts of Holland, built here in 1 250 ; and its name, to the Counts' hedge (^S^ Graven Har/e) sur- rounding their park. The principal streets are, the Voor- hout, lined with trees and bordered with splendid hotels ; the Prinssen- graclit, Kneuterdyk, and Noorueende. The Vyverberg (hill of the pond) is a square or place, with avenues of trees forming a shady promenade on the one side, and a piece of water on the other. It is in Holland alone that so gentle a rise in the ground as is here percep- tible, would be dignified with the name of a hill. On one side of the Vyverberg stands the Binnenhof, so called be- cause it formed the inner court of the Counts' Palace, an irregular l)uild- ing of various dates. The Golliic hall in the centre of it, now used for the drawing of the lottery , is the oldest building in the Hague, and the only remaining fragment of tlie original palace of the counts of Holland. It is a handsome apartment, with a point- C 2G ROUTE II. THE HAGUE. Sect. I. ed roof, supported by a gothic frame- work of wood, somewhat in the style of that of 'Westminster Hall. It possesses some interest in an histori- cal point of view ; since, upon a scaf- foldinj^ erected opposite to the door, on a level with tlie top of the steps the Pensionary Barneveldt was be- headed in IGIS, at the age of seventy- two. Prince Maurice is believed to have placed himself, during the execution, at the %vindow of an octa- gon tower which overlooks the spot, "to feast himself," says Burigny, " with the cruel pleasure of seeing his enemy perish. The people looked on it with other eyes : many came to gather the sand wet with liis blood, to keep it carefully in phials; and the crowd of those wlio had the same curiosity continued next day, notwith- standing all they could do to hinder tliem." The Chambers of the States General or Dutch parliament, and several of the public offices, are situ- ated in the Binnenhof. The public are freely admitted to the debates of tJie Second Chamber. Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) and the Vyverberg is an old gateway, called Gevangepoort (prison gate), remarkable as the place in w hich Cornelis De Witt was confined, 1672, on a false charge of conspiring to as- sassinate the Prince of Orange. The populace, incited to fury by the calum- nies circulated against him and his brother the Grand Pensionary, drag- ged them from the prison, and actually tore them to pieces on the spot facing the Vyverberg, called Groene Zoodje, witli ferocity more befitting wild beasts than human beings. A few yards from tlie sjjot where tliis occurred in the Kneuterdyk, opposite the Ilartog- straatje, may be seen the modest man- sion of the Grand Pensionary de Witt. Barneveldt lived in a house whicJi now forms part of the hotel of the Minis- ter of Finance. The Muteum anil Picture Gallery is situated in the building called the Maurits Huis, from Prince Maurice of Nassau, Governor of Braail, and afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was built. It is open to the public daily, except Sunday, from 11 to 3. The Picture Guilcry is almost en- tirely confined to the works of Dutch masters; but in this department it has scarcely a rival, in point of excellence, in any collection in the world. The most remarkable pictures are, Paul Potter s (170) Young Bull, — his masterijiece; a most celebrated pic- ture, and remarkable as being one of the few examples in which the artist painted animals as large as life. — This picture was carried to Paris by the French, and was classed by thera fourth in value of all tlie paintings then in the Louvre ; the Transfigura- tion, by Raphael, ranking first; and the Communion of St. Jerome, by Donienichino, second; Titian's Peter Martyr, third. Paul Potter's Bull has been valued at 5000/. ; tlie Dutch government, it is stated, offered Na- poleon four times that sum if he would consent to suffer it to remain at the Hague. Z). T. ( 171.) TheCow drink- ing; " finely painted, remarkable for the strong reflection in the water." Sir J. R. Remhrandt. (385.) A Surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended by his Pu- pils, proceeding to dissect a Dead Body. Though an unpleasing subject, it is a most wonderful painting, and one of the artist's finest works. " To avoid making it an object disagreeable to look at, tlie figure is but just cut at the wrist. There are seven other por- traits, coloured like nature itself, fresh atid highly finished ; one of the figures behind has a jiajjcr in his hand, on which are written tlie names of tlie rest. Rembrandt has also added his own name, with the date, 1672. The dead body is perfectly well drawn (a little fore-shortened), and seems to have been just washed. Nothing can be more truly the colour of dead Hesli. The legs and feet, which are nearest the eye, are in shadow ; the principal light, which is on the body, is by that Holland. ROUTE II. THE HAGUE. 27 means preserved of a compact form." Sir Joihua Reynolds. Physicians assert that they can ascertain that it is the body of a person who died from inflammation of tlie lungs. This picture formerly stood in the Anatomy School (Snij- kamcr) of Amsterdam, but was pur- chased by the present Kirig for the value of 3000/. (32,000 guilders). (ISO.) Portrait of a young man with hat and feathers : " for colouring and force nothing can exceed it." Sir J. R. — (178.) St. Simeon receiving the In- fant Jesus in the Temple. — (179. ) " A study of Susanna for a picture. It appears very extraordinary that Rem- brandt should have taken so much pains, and have made at last so very ugly and ill-favoured a figure ; but his attention was principally directed to the colouring and eftect, in which, it must be acknowledged, he has attained the highest degree of excellence." Sir J.R. Rubens. — His first wife, Catherine Brandt (185.). and his second wife, Eleanor Forman (186.): " both fine portraits ; but the last by far the most beautiful and the best coloured." Sir J. 7f. — (187.) Portrait of his Con- fessor. Vandyk. — (49.) Portrait of Simon, a painter of .\ntwerp. " Tliis is one of the very few pictures that can be seen of Vandyk which is in perfect preservation ; and, on examining it closely, it appeared to me a perfect pattern of portrait painting; every part is distinctly marked, but with the lightest hand, and without destroying the breadth of light : the colouring is perfectly true to nature, though it has not the brilliant effect of sunshine such as is seen in Rubens's wife : it is nature seen by common daylight." Sir J. /.'. — (47, 48.) Two fine por- traits, of a Gentleman, and " a Lady ■witli a feather in her hand," Sir /. R. called, incorrectly, the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham ; from the coat of arms in the corner, they are probably eitiitr Dutch or German. " A Virgin and Christ, coloured in the manner of Rubens, so much so as to appear, at first sight, to be of liis hand j but the character of the child shows it to be Vandyk's." Sir /. R. The only picture in the gallery answer- ing to this description is one attributed (and to all appearance correctly) to Murillo (303.). Ferdinand Bol: — (18.) Portrait of Admiral de Ruiter. Kcystr : (104.) Four Burgomasters of Amsterdam deliberating on the re- ception of 3Iary de' Medicis into their city. " A very good picture." (103.) A small full-length of a Man in Black : excellent. Gerard Dou : (42.) A Woman sitting near a window, with a child in a cradle; a very pleasing pic- ture. — "A woman with a candle." Sir J. R. : very highly finished. — Wouvermans : (249.) A Battle piece, — (257.) " The Hay Cart," — and (25G.) " The Manege ; " three excel- lent specimens of this artist. " Here are many of the best works of Wou- vermans, whose pictures are well worthy the attention and close exa- mination of a painter. One of the most remarkable of them is known by the name of the Hay Cart : another, in which there is a coach and horses, is equally excellent. These pictures are in his three different manners : his middle manner is by much the best ; the first and last have not that liquid softness which characterises his best works. Besides his great skill in co- louring, his horses are correctly drawn, very spirited, of a beautiful form, and always in unison with their ground. L'pon the whole, he is one of the few painters whose excellence, in his way, is such as leaves nothing to be wished for." Sir J. R. Beryhem. — (1 3.) An Italian View. — (15.) Banditti robbing a Caravan, excellent. ranc/crwer/.— (247.) The Flight into Egypt: "one of his best." Sir J", i?. " Terbiirg. — (30.) A Woman seated on the ground, leaning her elbow against a man's knee, and a c 2 28 ROUTE II. — THE HAGUE. Sect. I. trumpeter delivering a letter." Sir J.R. Poussin. — Venus asleep: a Satyr drawing off the drapery. Sir /. li. Tl)e painting to which Sir Joshua al- ludts is probably (189.)) described in the catalogue as a subject from Ari- osto, by one of Rubciis's scholars. Breyyheh — " Two pictures of flow- ers and fruits, with animals ; one serves for a border to a bad portrait, the other {21.) to a picture of Rothen- hamer : the frames -are much better than the pictures." Sir /. R. Mttzu : A Woman writing and looking up. — Linc/elbacli : (116.) The Departure of Charles II. from Hol- land, on his restoration to the throne of England. — Adrian Van Ostade: A Man singing ; painted when the ariist was 63. — (155, 156.)" The exte- rior and interior of a cottage. — Frans JMieris (127.) Eoy blowing bubbles. — (125.) Dutch gallantry: a man pinching the ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress's lap." Sir J. R. Called in the catalogue, The Painter and his "Wife. — Vundt/- Heist. (82.) Portrait of Paul Potter, taken a few days be- fore his death. — Schalken : (197.) A Lady at her toilette. A beauti- ful candlelight etlect. (201.) Por- trait of William III. — Jan Steen : (21:5.) The Menagerie, one of his best works ; and one or two other very good pictures. — Adrian VandcrVdde : (232.) The Sea-shore at Suhevening. — Hochf/eest (a rare tnaster) : (84.) The tomb of William Prince of Orange, in the New Church, Delft. " It is painted in the manner of De Witt, but I think better." Sir /. R. — Teiiiers : (222.) " An alchemist." (221.) "A kitchen." Sir J. 7?. — Velasquez: (.305.) Portrait of a boy; said to be Charles Dalthazar, son of Philip IV. of Spain. — Titian : (;335.) Portrait of the Emperor Charles V. ; a sketch. — Vernet : (300.) A sea piece. — Hondekoeter ^- Wecninx : One or two admirable specimens of these masters, representing birds and game alive and dead. — Van lluysum : Fruit and flower piece. — De Ileem : " Fruit, done with the utinost perfection." Sir J. R. (79, 80,). Sni/ders : — (205. ) " A large hunt- ing ))iece, well painted, but it occu- pies too much space. His works, from the subjects, their size, and, we may add, from their being so common, seem to be better suited to a hall or ante- room, than any other ])lace." Sir /, R, The landscape is by Rubens. Among the older pictures are, — by Albert Durer: Two portraits said to he of Laiuence Coster (282,), the inventor of printing, and P. Aretin (283,).— -i/oZteni.- (290.) A small portrait of a man with a hawk ; on it is written Henry Cheseman, 1533. " Admirable for its truth and preci- sion, and extremely well coloured. Tlie blue flat ground behind the head gives a general eftect of dryness to the picture : had the ground been varied, and made to harmonise more with the figure, this portrait miglit have stood in competition with the works of the best portrait painters," Sir J.R. — (291.) Jane Seymour; (293,) Eras- mus, fine portraits. Several a))artments are devoted to the works of modern Flemish artists, purchased by the King with the de- sign of encouraging the living school. These paintings sutler somewliat from being placed in the same gallery with the w orks described above : stilJ there are some very creditable performances. The Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, a highly interesting collection, is placed in the lower story of the INIaurits liuis ; and is open daily to the public from 12 to 3. Several apartments are occupied entirely with objects of curiosity from China and Japan, and rare produc- tions brought from other Dutcli co- lonies ; one division is devoted to ///«- inrical relics of distinguished persons. Some of the most remarkable objects are here enumerated. The Costumes of China, illustrated by figures of persoris of various ranks, in porcelain ; as the Emperor, a Bonze Holland. ROUTE II. — THE HAGUE. 29 or Priest, 3Iandarins, &c., each in his peculiar dress. An immense variety of articles manufactured by tlie Chi- nese in porcelain. Figures and other objects elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of-pearl, and soap-stone, or steatite. A chessboard, differing but little from that of Europe ; — articles in daily use amongst the Chinese, as the chopsticks which serve instead of knives and forks ; the calculating table (swampon), or abacus, with which they cast accounts ; specimens of vi- siting cards two feet square, 6cc. ; and a view of the Palace of the Emperor of China, at Pckin. The division occupied by rarities from Japan is probably unirjue, as the Dutch are the only European nation admitted into that country, and have therefore the best opportunities for procuring curiosities. The value of this collection is increased by the ex- treme difficulty of bringing such ob- jects to Europe; as tlie laws of the Japanese strictly prohibit their ex- portation. A plan of Jeddo, the me- tropolis of Japan, a city of at least 2,000,000 inhabitants, and 20 leagues in circumference. A cuiious model, made by the Japanese with the most mi- nute attention to details, of the Island of Desima, the Dutch Factory in Japan The Deities of China and Japan in porcelain, &c. A wliole ■wardrobe of Japanese dresses, made of silks and other stuffs. A large collection of Japan ware, as boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c., of far finer workmanship and more elabo- rately painted than the ordinary spe- cimens commonly met with in Europe. Japanese weapons, particularly vari- ous species of krits, or dirks, and swords, of remarkably fine steel, which in temper are said to surpass any thing which Birmingham, or even Damas- cus, can produce. The Japanese are tremendously expert in the use of this their favourite weapon : with one blow they can sever a man's body in twain. The upper classes of society claim the privilege of wearing two swords at once. The matchlock barrels depo- sited here are excellent in the quality of the steel, and in the beauty of the workmanship. Among the articles of military equipment, is a coat of Japanese mail, with a steel vizor formed into a grotesque face, and ornamented with mustachios of bristles and horns of brass. A Xorimon, or Japanese palanquin, has recently been added to the collection. The needles and other apparatus with which the operation of acupuncture is performed by the Japanese physicians are de- serving the attention of medical men. Many cases are entirely filled wiih dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and household utensils, of savage nations, from various parts of the world. Among the historical relics are, the armour of Admiral de Ruiter, with the medal and chain given him by the States General. The baton of Admi- ral Piet Hein. The armour of Admi- ral Tromp, with the marks of more than one bullet on it. A portion of the bed on which the Czar Peter slept in his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and waistcoat worn by William III. of England the 3 last days of his life. A specimen of the beggar's bowl (jcttte de Gueitx) which formed a part of the insignia of the confederate chiefs who freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, worn by them along with a wallet, as symbols of the name of beg- gar (gueus), with which their enemies intended to have stigmatised them. A ball of wood, full of nails, each driven in by one of the confederates, when they swore to be faithful to one another, and steadfast in the enter- prize. The dress ofWilliam Princejof Orange, on the day when he was mur- dered at Delft by Balthazar Gerards. It is a plain grey leathern doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced by the balls, and showing marks of the pow- der. By the side of it is the pistol used by the assassin, and two of the fatal bullets. A^model of the cabin in which Peter the Great resided while c 3 30 ROUTE II. — THE HAGUE. Sect. I. a shipbuilder at Zaandam. — A large bab)-housc, fitted up to show the na- ture of a Dutch menage, intended by Peter as a present to his wife. The Royal Library in the Voorhout consists of about 100,000 volumes. Among the IVISS. is the original of the Treaty of Utrecht. The collection of medals (to the num- ber of 33,600) and of gems in the same building is very extensive and rich. There are SOD cameo-s, the greater part antique; among them, the Apotheosis of Claudius, one of the largest known, and of fine workman- ship. Among the modern cameos, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth is very fine. The lover of the fine arts ought not to quit the Hague without visiting the Private Cabinets of M. Verstolk van Soeltn, who has also a large collection of engravings ; that of M. van Nagcl, where there is a fine Ciiyp, a calm at sea ; two good Wouvermans ; and a spirited Tcniers :' — that of M. Os- thuisc, and that of M. Steengracht. Johannes Secundus, celebrated for his Latin verses; Huygens, the in- ventor of the pendulum clock ; and William III. of England, were na- tives of the Hague. A number of tame storks may be seen stalking about in tlie fish-market of the Hague, where a small house like a dog kennel has been built for them. They are kept at the public expense for the same reason that bears are kept at Berne, and eagles at Ge- neva: because the arms of the Hague are a stork. Intlie Theatre French pieces arc more frequently performed than Dutch ; sometimes, but rarely, German arc given. The Post Office is behind St. James's church. The Royal Palace,\n tlie street called Noordeinde, is a building of little pre- tensions, and does not contain much that is remarkable. The King gives public audience every Wednesday, at which the poorest of his subjects are admitted. There is a brass cannon foundery at the Hague. At the Hague the water is more stagnant than in almost any other part of Holland. Though so near the sea, the canals and streams do not empty themselves into it ; on the contrary, flow from it. By the side of the road, near Scheveningen, a tall windmill is seen on a lieight with another below it. These raise up water from the Dunes, and convey it to the Vyverberg, whose stagnant water it displaces into the canals, and, at last,- effecting a feeble current through the Hague, pushes out a portion into the canal leading to Delft. From Delft the water barely flows to the borders of the Meuse, above Rotter- dam, where it is pumped up and dis- charged into that river. On the outskirts of the town, about a mile distant, at the side of the road to Haarlem, lies the palace called the House in the Wood ('T Huis in't Bosch). It is very splendidly furnished. The great hall, called Orange Zaal (Orange Hall), was built by a prin- cess of Solms, grandmother of our William III., and decorated with paintings in honour of her husband. Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. " It is painted on every side, and every recess and corner has some allegorical story by Jordaens, Van Tulden, Ele- vens or Hondthorst. The different hands that have been here employed make variet}', it is true, but it is variety of wretchedness. A tri umphal entry, by Jordaens, is the best, and this is but a confused business : the only part which deserves any commendation is the four horses of the chariot, which are well painted. It is remarkable that the foremost leg of each horse is raised, which gives tliem the formality of trained soldiers." Sir J. R. This ver- dict of Sir Joshua is not altogether ratified l)y the opinion of good judges. " The picture no doubt displays much bad taste and bad drawing; l)ut there are specimens of colouring in it, which have all the brilliant trans- Holland. ROUTE II. — THE HAGUE. 31 parency of Rubens; for instance, the group of female ptisoners, and that of Venus and her nymphs." W. M. T. The apartments which surround tliis hall were added afterwards : they con- tain a fine collection of family portraits of the house of Nassau. ThzBosch, or Wood, itself is abeau- tiful park, nearly two miles long; it is not unlike Kensington Gardens. It abounds in fine forest trees, and is one of the few spots in Holland where they are allowed to grow as nature intended tiiem, undipped, untrained, and in all their natural luxuriance of spreading branches. The number of walks, the varied nature of the ground, tlie fine sheets of water, and the refreshing shade, render this as agreeable a walk as can be desired. 6'cAei'e«iw^e», about three miles from the Hague, on the sea-shore ; a fishing village, near wliich a bathing-house has recently been established. The road thither passes through a long avenue of trees. A little to the left of the road is Sorgvliet, once the resi- dence of the poet Jacob Cats : a stone table at which he used to write, with a hole cut in it for an inkstand, is shown in the garden. The costume worn by the fish- wives of Scheveningen is not a little singular ; the bonnet can be compared to nothing so appropriately as a coal- scuttle. The fishermen convey their fish to the Hague in carts drawn by dogs ; in returning, the master supplies the place of the fish, and may be seen, to use the words of tlie facetious author of Vathek, " airing himself in a one-dog chaise." The sand-hills thrown up along the beach conceal all views of the sea, till the traveller is close upon it. Scheveningen was the place from which Charles II. embarked for Eng- land at the Restoration ; and here the Prince of Orange, now King of Hol- land, landed in 1813, after the down- fal of Buonaparte. The village originally extended some way beyond the church towards the sea ; but this portion of it was swallowed up by a dreadful inundation, 1570. To the riglit of the village, on the shore, is a pavilion of the Queen of Holland ; and, beyond it, the New Bathing Establishment, which unites the accommodations of an Hotel and Cafe with warm-baths ; while bathing- machines are provided on the shore for those who prefer a cold-bath in the sea. This well-regulated establishment be- longs to the Corporation of the Hague, and the price of every thing is fixed by tariff. There are 3 classes of sleep- ing apartments, let at 3, 2, and 1 guilders or florins per diem; but an allowance is made to persons who take up their abode for several weeks. Dinner at the table-d'liote costs 2 fl. ; a l)otlle of vin ordinaire, 1 fl. 50 c. Dinner in private, from 1 fl. 50 c. up to 2 fl. 50 c. Breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 c.': a warm-bath costs 1 fl. 10 c. ; a bathing machine, 1 fl. Fish may be had here in great perfection. Many crowned heads, princes, prin- cesses, and other persons of distinc- tion from various parts of the Con- tinent, take up their residence here every year during the season. The inhabitants of the Hague drive over hither, take their breakfast or dinner, and a bath, and then return. A new road leading from the back of the hotel over a waste of sand now planted with trees, may be chosen in going back to the Hague, so as to vary the excur- sion. Public carriages are constantly passing to and fro. A hackney coach to go and return costs 1 gr. 20 cents. The Bath-house is built upon one of the ridges of sand thrown up by the wind, which extend along the sea-shore from the Texel nearly to Dunkirk. They are planted with rushes and other plants, chiefly arundo arcnaria, to bind the loose mass to- gether, and prevent its being scattered over the country. The view on the land side over this desert is as dreary as can be well imagined. C 4 32 ROUTE II. LEYDEN. Sect. I. Diligences run at least S times a day from the Hague to Rotterdam, Leydcn, and Amsterdam. Barges go to Lcyden and Delft as often. Voorhiirg, a small hamlet to the east of the Hague, stands on the site of the Forum Iladriani of the Romans. Remains of Roman buiWings, baths, broken pottery, utensils, and other articles of much interest, have been discovered here on excavating, and are now to be seen in the museum at Leyden. Near Voorljurg is the house ■where Huygens lived. HAGUE TO LEYDEN — Continued. • The direct road from the Hague to Amsterdam does not pass through Leyden, but leaves it about three miles on the right, and proceeds at once by Postbrug (post-bridge) througii the villages of Sassem, Lisse, and Hillc- gom to Haarlem. Between the Hague and Leyden, the road, having first traversed the Bosch, passes a number of chateaux of the noiiility, country houses, and gardens, which, with their meandering walks, formal dipt hedges, and parterres, cut in patterns filled %vith flowers, enliven the journey. There is an undulation in the sur- face of the ground, which shows that this part of the country is in a great degree composed of Dunes (§ 12.) similar to those now forming along the sea-shore, except that time has covered them with herbage, and in some cases with large forest trees. 2;\ Leyden. — Inns: Goude Sonne (Golden Sun). Plaats Royaal, asmall inn of no pretension, but where clean- liness and civility will be met with. — There is at present no very good imi here. Leyden, situated on that brancli of the Rhine which alone retains its ori- ginal name as far as the sea, and ivliicli here puts on the appearance of a broad canal, has 35,000 inhabitants. In its present name may still be traced that which the Romans gave it — Lvgdit- niim Batavorum. In the centre of the town is the fracrment of a round tower, built on the only eminence which the country presents for many miles around ; it is called the Burg, and is supposed to be of Roman ori- gin, though attributed by some to tJie Anglo-Saxon Hengist. It commands a good view of the town. The Town Hall ( Stadlmis), in the Breedstraat (Broad Street, the prin- cipal and longest in the town), is a singular but picturesque old building, erected in 1574; the lower story is occupied by butchers' stalls. In the council and audience chambers, on the first floor, are several pictures ; among them the Last Judgment, by I.iicas Van Leyden, an extraordinary compo- sition; a Crucifixion by 6'yr«e7/?(s £n- gelhrecht ; several portraits of the city guard by Vanschoten. There is also a picture of the burgomaster, Peter Vanderwerf, who so bravely defended the town during the memorable siege of 1 574 ; by Van Bree, a modern artist ; also his portrait by Govert Flinch. Leyden has been rendered cele- brated in the annals of the Low Coun- tries, and, indeed, in the liistory of the world, by the siege which it en- dured from the Spaniards under Val- dez in 1573-4. The defence of the place was entrusted to John Vander- does ; the l)urgomaster of the town was Pieter Adrianzoon A'^anderwerf ; and the example of heroism and endu- rance afforded by the citizens under their guidance has not been surpassed in any country. When Vanderdoes was urged by Valdez to surrender, he replied, in the name of the inhabitants, that " when provisions failed them they would devour their left hands, reserving their right to defend their liberty." For nearly four months the inhabitants had held out without murmuring; every individual, even to the women and children, taking a share in the defence. For seven weeks bread had not been seen within the walls ; provisions had been ex- hausted, and the horrors of famine had driven the besieged to appease Holland. ROUTE II. LEYDEN. 33 their hunger with the flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul animals ; roots and weeds were eagerly sought for. So strictly was the blockade maintained, that every attempt on the part of their friends to throw in pro- visions had failed. Pestilence came in the train of famine, and carried off at least GOOO of the inhabitants ; so that the duty of burying them was almost too severe for those who were left, worn out by fatigue, watching, and emaciation. At length two car- rier pigeons flew into the town, bear- ing tidings that relief was at hand. Tlie Prince of Orange had, Anally, adopted the determination of cutting the dykes of the JNIaas and Yssel, to relieve the heroic town. As this fear- ful alternative could not be resorted to without involving the total ruin of the whole province of Holland, it is not to be wondered at tliat it was only- adopted after much hesitation, and as a last resource. But the inundation, even when the water was admitted, did not produce the anticipated re- sults ; although tiie country between Gouda, Dort, Rotterdam, and Ley- den was submerged, it only rose a , few feet. The flotilla of 200 boats, ; built by the Prince of Orange at Rot- , terdam, and manned by 800 Zea- I landers under Boisot, destined for the i relief of the town, was thus prevented ^ approaching it, though the inhabitants could easily descry it from their walls. ' Then it was that, driven frantic by disappointment as well a? sutlering, they approached, in a tumultuous mob, the burgomaster, and demanded from him, peremptorily, bread, or the sur- render of the town. " I have suorn to defend this city," answered the he- i roic governor, " and by God's help I ' mean to keep that oath. Bread I have I none ; but, if my body can aflrord you I relief, and enable you to prolong the defence, take it and tear it to pieces, and let those who are most hungry among you share it." Such noble de- votion was not without its effect : the most clamorous were abashed, and they ; all retired in silence; but, fortunately, ' the misery of the besieged was now nearly at an end, and another Pjwer above that of man effected the relief of the town of Leyden. The wind, I which had for many weeks been in the -v.E., changed to the x.w., driving the tide up the river; it then suddenly 1 veered to the s., and one of those j violent and continued storms, which, , even when the dykes are entire, cause I such anxiety for the safety of the country, acting witli accumulated vio- lence upon the waters, widened the breaches already cut in the Dykes, and I drove in the flood upon the land with the force of an overwhelming torrent. I The inundation not only spread as I far as the walls of Leyden, but with such suddenness, that the ramparts thrown up by the Spaniards were sur- I rounded, and more than 1000 of their soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. The same tide wliich swept them away, carried the flotilla of boats of the Prince of Orange, laden with provisions, to the gates of Leyden. An amphibious battle was fought among the branches of the trees, partly on the dykes, partly in boats ; and in the end the Spaniards, who had boasted that it was as impossible for the Dutch to save Leyden from their hands as to pluck the stars from hea- ven, were driven from their palisades and entrenchments. This almost mi- raculous deliverance took place on the .Od of October, 1574, — a day still com- memorated by the citizens. As an ad- ditional proof of divine interference on this occasion, the Dutch historians remark that the wind from the s.w, which had carried the water up to t!ie walls, after three days turned to the K. E., so as effectually to drive it back again. Thus it might well be said that both wind and water fought in the defence of Leyden. The spirit which then animated the Dutch nation is by no means ex- tinct, as their patriotic exertions after the separation of their country from Belgium, in 1830, has shown. At c 5 34 ROUTE II. LEVDEN. Sect. I. the first call, the whole of the students of this and other Dutch universities quitted their studies, and, enrolling themselves into a corps, marched to the frontier; and not only distin- guished themselves in the conflicts that took place, but remained m arms for the space of one year, as volun- teers. The Universiti/ is remarkable, not only as one of the most distinguished schools of learning in Europe, and for the interesting and valuable mu- seums attached to it, but also on account of its origin and foundation, which dates from the time of the siege. Tlie Prince of Orange, with the view of rewarding the citizens for the bravery they displayed on that occasion, gave them the choice of two privileges — either an exemption from certain taxes, or a university : much to their credit, they chose the latter. It at one time attained so high a reputation for learning, that Leyden earned the appellation of the Alliens of the West. In the list of its distinguished profes- sors and scholars, it numbers Grotius and Descartes, Salmasius, Scaliger, and Boerhaave, who was professor of medicine. Evelyn, Goldsmith, and many otlicr celebrated Englishmen, studied here. Arminiusand Gomarus, the authors of the rival doctrines in religion named after them, wore pro- fessors here, and the memorable con- troversy between them commenced in the University. Leyden still affords excellent opportunities to the student of medicine or natural history, from the extent and value of its collections in all departments. The building of this University is not distinguished for its architecture ; it contains portraits of some of its most eminent professors. There are at present between 600 and 700 students. The Museum of Natural History is one of the richest and most exten- sive in Europe, especially in all the productions of the Dutch colonies in the East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Su- rinam, and West Indies : there are many rare specimens not to be found elsewhere, very excellently preserved, and the whole is admirably arranged. Tiie department of hinls is enriciied by the collection made by Mr. Tem- minck, perhaps the finest in Europe. The cabinet of comparative ana- tomy is perhaps the most complete in Europe. It contains preparations and skeletons of animals from the cameleopard down to the mouse, and is well arranged. Among the shelh are specimens of those which produce pearl, and of the pearl itself in all its different stages of formation : also portions of the wooden piles which support the dykes on some part of the Dutch coast, perforated by the teredo to such an extent, that the total ruin of the dykes was at one time apprehended. Luckily, the danger did not si)read very far, and the threatened scourge disappeared. It is supposed that the worm had been brought over from the tropical seas in the timber of some vessel, but that it had been killed, in a few seasons, by the rigour of a northern climate. Means have been taken since its appearance to guard against the danger in future. The dykes are now protected at their base, by stones brought from Norway or Tournay, and the lock-gates are coppered. The minerals and insects are also good ; among the latter are various specimens of spectrum, nearly a foot long ; also the leaf insect. One of the most interesting collec- tions in Leyden is the Japanese Mu- seum, brought to Europe with great difficulty by Dr. Siebold. It is not only curious from the number of its articles, but from their careful and ju- dicious arrangement. It unites every thing, from the most common to the most rare and valuable objects, re- lating to the mode of life, manners and customs, &c., of tlie Japanese. It contains implements of husbandry; whatever is used for ordinary domestic purposes, dresses, arms, tools ; vases, Holland. ROUTE II. — LEVDEN. 35 many of them remarkable for their ■workmanship as well as their anti- quity ; well-executed sketches ; co- loured drawings ; a library of printed books, MSS. and maps; a complete set of musical instruments; idols, and even the sacred objects appertaining to tlieir worship, and the furniture of the temple ; a series of Japanese coins and medals, and a complete set of Chinese coins from the 2nd century before our era. The traveller who visits it will not only derive great pleasure from the examination of so rare a collection, unique of its kind in Europe, but, also from the urbanity and intelligence of Dr. S., whose in- timate acquaintance with the Japanese, and every particular relative to their manners and customs, is the result of a protracted residence of many years in that country. The Egyptian Museum in the Breede Straat, includes numerous valuable and highly interesting monuments, partly historical, partly illustrative of the mode of life of that ancient people. The Papyri, a small but entire tomb of stones, some musical instruments, inscriptions, numerous fine stone ta- blets of a very early period, many sarcophagi and mummies, as well as rich ornaments in gold and precious stones, offer abundant interest to the learned anticjuary and to the curious traveller. ( fF. ) Of jewellery and trin- kets, once, doubtless, the delight of the ladies oF Thebes, and such as were borrowed by the children of Israel on their departure from Egypt, there is a large assortment. A massive armlet of solid gold, bears the name of a king (Thotmes II.), who is sup- posed to have been the oppressor of the Israelites ; if so, it may possibly have been seen by Moses himself. The IMuscum also embraces many ancient objects of Roman art. Six monumental fragments, bearing Punic inscriptions, were brought from the ruins of Carthage. The collection of Etruscan bronzes is the largest on this side of the Alps ; there are besides a number of colossal Indian statues and other objects here. A large heap of broken pottery and other objects discovered at Voorbnrg near the Hague, are curious relics of the Roman settlement in this country. The Agricultural collections in Leyden are very eminent. The Botanical Garden deserves the highest praise ; it is under a twofold arrangement, according to the systems of Linnteus and Jussieu. The col- lection of plants is very extensive, and is preserved in excellent order, un- der the superintendence of Professor Reinwardt and his able assistant Mr. Schurman. In the conservatories are reared the cinnamon, cinchona (from which comes barkand quinine), coffee, cotton, mahogany, &c. In one of the hot-houses there were till lately two date palms said to be more tlian 200 years old ; a large Fraxinus Orntcs in the open air, was planted by Boerhaave, who devoted much time and attention to the form- ation and cultivation of this garden. Another curiosity is the trunk of a tree, which has been sawn asunder, and shows in the very centre an iron trident or fork, buried in the middle of the wood. The ^large open space, called de Ruine, in the street named Rapcn- hurg, now planted %yith trees, %vas formerly covered witli houses : they were demolished in 1807 by the fearful explosion of a barge laden w itli gun- powder, which caught fire from some imcxplained cause while lying in the canal, in the very heart of the town, and killed 150 persons. In the Church of St. Peter is the monument of Boerhaave, the renowned physician, with the modest inscription, " Salutifero Boerhaavii Genio sa- crum;" surrounded by others in memory of the most distinguished worthies of the University, as Dodo- naius, Spanheim, the two IMecrmans, Clusius, Scaligcr, Camper, and others. Among them is one of a professor, J. Luzac, killed by the explosion of c 6 36 ROUTE II. — LEYDEN. Sect.l. 1807, representing him in has relief, in the state in which he was found after his death. Intlie Church of St. Pancras, called the Hooglandsche Kerk, is the mo- nument of the brave burgomaster, Vandcrwerff, who refused to yield up the town to the Spaniards. The mo>t frequented promenade is without tlie walls, close by the side of that branch of the Rhine which waters and surrounds the town, shaded by a double row of trees. In the neigh- bourhood, of Leyden are the retreats of several distinguished men. In the chateau of Endegeest (near Oest- gecst), Descartes found an asylum; and the country seat of Boerhaave still bears his name. Leyden is surrounded by wind- mills ; but they who inquire for tliat in which Rembrandt was born, will hardly meet with a satisfactory answer. A short distance out of Leyden, on tlic left of the road to Utrecht, and on the left bank of tlic Rhine canal, is a mill built of brick, bearing a more antiquated appearance than the rest, which is pointed out as the birthplace of the painter. It is recorded that his parents were owners of a corn- mill, situated between Leyerdorp and Koiikerk. Otto Vennius, inaster of Rubens, 1556. Jan Steen, 1636. Ger- ard Dou, W. Vandevelde, INIieris, and many other distinguished painters. Mere l)orn here ; as were tlic Klzevirs, famous printers, known l)y the editions of the classics bearing their name, and printed in Leyden. About 8 miles from Leyden, on the sea-shore, is Katicijh, wlicre tlie expiring Riiine is helped to disciiarge itself into the sea by means of a canal with gigantic sluice-gates. The mouth of tile Rhine had remained closed from the year 840, when a violent tempest heajjed up an impenetrable barrier of sand at its embouchure, until 1S0<), wlien tiie sluices were formed. As long as tlie river was left to itself, it was lost, before it reached the sea, in the vast beds of sand which it there encountered, and which either lay below the level of the tides, or were so flat that water could hardly pass through or drain off them. 'Ihus only a small part of the Rhine, dribbling into insignificant streams, ever found its way out : the rest settled into stagnant pools, converting the whole district into a pestilential morass. To remedy this evil, and also to give a new outlet to the Ilaar- lemmer JNIeer and to the superfluous waters of the district of the Rheinland, a wide artificial channel has been formed, provided with a triple set of sluices; the first having 2 pair, the second 4 pair, and the last, nearest the sea, 7 pair of gates. When the tide flows, the gates are shut, to prevent the entrance of the sea, which at high water rises against tlieni ] 2ft., and (he level of the sea on the outside is equal if not above that of the canal within. During ebb-tide the floodgates are opened by means of machinery for 5 or G hours, to allow the accumulated streams to pass out, and, in their pas- sage, to clear away the sands collected by tlie waves on the outside. It has been calculated that the volume of water passing out in a second equals 100,000 cubic ft. When the sea is much agitated, and the wind blowing towards the shore, prevents the tide retiring to its usual distance, it is impossible to open the gates at all. The dykes which have been raised at the entrance of the canal, and on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous ; they arc founded upon piles driven into the loose sand, and faced with solid masonry of limestone from Tournay. These hydraulic works were executed during the reign of King Louis, by an engineer named Conrad : his name has been erased (because the inscrip- tion contained some praise of his master, Louis Buonaparte), from the work which does him so much credit, and confers so great a benefit on the surroimding district. But his ser- vices have not been forgotten by the powers that be, since, after his pre- Holland. ROUTE II. HAARLEM. 37 mature deatli, his three infant sons were educated and provided for at the public expense. This exit of the Rhine presents nothing very striking to the eye. It may be doubted whether tlie mere sight of a set of iloodgates, even though they surpass in strength and ingenuity any similar construction in Europe, will repay a traveller who does not take a particular interest in such sub- jects, for making a detour out of his road to Katwyk : unless perchance, having traced the stream from its small beginnings under the glaciers of Mount Adula, until its flood forms a barrier between mighty nations, — having followed it among the sunny and vine-clad slopes of the Rheingau, and beneath the frowning and bristling crags of the Lurley and Ehrenbreit- stein, — he may desire to see it in its last gasp, before it is lost in the ocean. Close to the shore are salt-works and evaporating houses, where the sea-water is pumped up to the top of a large building with open sides, and allowed to trickle over fagots with which it is filled. It is thus treated several times, losing each time many of its watery particles, by exjiosureto the air and sun, until at last it is con- verted to strong brine, and is trans- ported to Leydcn to be boiled. The Trekschuit takes 4j hours in going froin Leyden to Haarlem : the traveller by land returns into the high road from the Hague to Haarlem, at, J. Postbrug — the first stage (2J posts) from the Hague. Tlie road afterwards passes the village of Lisse, and commands occasional views of the Lake of Haarlem on the right. On approaching Haarlem, the num- ber of country seats greatly increase; at the entrance of the town, on the right, is the Pavilion, a house origin- ally built by M. Hope, the banker, of Amsterdam, sold afterwards to Louis Buonaparte. It now belongs to the King. It is one of the lions of Haar- lem ; but it is, in fact, nothing but a very handsome mansion, containing neither pictures nor statues of any consequence. 2k- Haaklem. Inn. — Lion d'Or (Goude Leeuw), Zyl Straat, where the landlady, a clever and obliging little personage, has taught herself English as well as French, and stu- dies anxiously the accommodation of her guests, Haarlem is situated on the Spaarn : it has 21,000 inhabitants, just half of what it once contained. The most remarkable thing here is the Ort/an in the great church of St. Bavon. It was made by Christian Miiller, and was long esteemed the largest and finest in the world, though lately surpassed in the size of the pipes by two erected in England, at York and Birmingliam. There are, however, nearly 5000 pipes in the Dutch organ, and only 4500 in the English. The greatest metal pipe at Haarlem is 15 inches in diameter, that of York is 20 inches ; the Haarlem organ has only 2 pipes 32 feet in length and 8 of 16 feet, while that of York has 4 of 32 feet, and 20 of \6 feet; still the Haarlem instrument must not be undervalued : its powers are immense, and it is played on by an organist who at his private perform- ances knows how to bring them out. In size it is itself an edifice, a stu- pendous pile of musical architecture, filling the whole of one end of the church, and reaching up to the roof, being supported on porphyry pillars. A paper containing full particulars of the number and variety of stops may be obtained from the organist. Extract from a Journal : — " The first burst of sound was quite thrill- ing, as peal after peal issued forth, vibrated along the roof, and died away in distant corners of the building. Then softer tones were poured forth in a flood of melody; and as the former were more powerful, so did these ap- pear more touchingly melodious than thoseof any otherinstrument of thesort I had heard. The variety of imitation 38 ROUTE II. — HAARLEM. Sect. I. of which it is capable under the hand of a skilful musician is extraordinary. At one time the trumpet sounds a charge ; in tlie next, the fife, hautboy, or piano, is heard. But the most remarkable imitation is that of the tinkling of bells, so very exact, that it is difficult at first to believe that such tones can be produced by air within pipes. The performance con- cludes with ' The Storm,' and with peals of mimic thunder, under which the massive building seems to shake, and the walls to jar. The great dia- pason produced a sound which re- minded me of the whizzing confused movement of the wheels of a cotton factory. All this, however, is to be regarded merely as a tour de force, as ventriloquism of the organ ; it owes its great reputation to the general power and effect of its tones. The vox humana pipe is considered par- ticularly fine. When the performance is over, strangers are invited into the organ loft, to inspect tlie instrument. The condition of exhaustion in which I found tlie organist, from the mere physical exertion of playing, made me think that his charge was not so exorbitant as it at first appeared." The organist's fee is 1 2 guilders [II.) for his performance at private hours ; it matters not how large tlie party may be — one person or twenty pay the same. A voluntary is played tlirice a week, after morning service, from 12 to 1, at which time all the world is admitted ; but a very poor notion of the power of the instrument can be formed from this. On the alternate days, at tlie same hour, the organist plays the carillons, which are very re- markable. There is an extensive view from the cliurcli tower. The church itself is very liigli ; the nave is divided from the choir by a screen of brass, ornamented with cu- rious grotesque figures and foliage. In one of the walls a cannon-ball still remains embedded, a relic of the me- morable siege by the Spaniards in 1572. The inhabitants of Haarlem are very anxious to obtain for their towns- man, Laurence Coster, the credit of the invention of printing, grounding his claims upon a dubious local tra- dition which cannot be traced farther back than the middle of the XVIth century. His statue is placed in the open market-place, near St. Bavon, fronting the house ivhcre he lived. In the Stadhuis is preserved the first book printed by him, it is said in 1440 (?), the " Speculum Ilumanae Salvationis ; " along with it are shown specimens of the original blocks, or wooden types, invented and used by him. Coster appears to have ori- ginated tlie idea of taking off im- pressions with ink upon paper from solid wooden blocks. His attempts were made, it is said, as early as 1430, and may have led the way to the per- fection of the invention. This seems to be the exact extent of his claim to the discovery. The merit of forming movable metal types, in fact, the art of printing, is now proved, almost beyond a doubt, to belong to John Gutemberg, of Mayence. The Dutch, however, do not abate tlieir claims, and a controversial war is still waged on this subject. Haarlem still pos- sesses a type foundery, celebrated es- pecially for Hebrew and Greek types cast in it. Haarlem is also famous for its hy- acinths, tulips, and other flowers, which grow in the utmost luxuriance and beauty in a soil particularly congenial to them, viz. a combination of sand, loam, and bog earth, wliile water lies so near the surface that their roots readily find nourishment. The latter end of April, and the beginning of INIay, is the time when the beds are in their greatest beauty ; but it is at other seasons worth while to visit one of the numerous nursery gardens in tlie outskirts of the town, where there is at all times something to be seen, and M-here roots and seeds may be purchased. (N. B. There is a heavy duty in England on flower roots.) Holland. ROUTE II. — HAARLEM. 39 The gardens of a great part of Europe are biipplied from Haarlem, and there is little doubt that the taste for culti- vating flowers originated in Holland ; but the trade in tulips is not carried on as in the days of the Tulipomania, and 100 florins is now a very large sum for a root. " The enormous prices that were actually given for real tulip bulbs, of particular kinds, formed but a small fraction of the extent to which the iTiercantile transactions of this gaudy flower was carried. If we may give credit to Beckman, who states it on Dutch authorities, 400 perits in weight (something less than a grain) of the bulb of a tulip named Admiral Leif- Jten, cost 4400 fl. ; and 200 of another, named Semper Auijiisttis, '2.000^. Of this last, he tells us, it once happened there were only two roots to be had, the one at Amsterdam, the other at Haarlem ; and that for one of these were offered 4600 fl., a new carriage, two grey horses, and a complete set of harness ; and that another person of- fered 12 acres of land. It is almost impossible to give credence to such madness. The real truth of the story is, that these tulip roots were never bought or sold, but they became the medium of a systematised species of gambling. The bulbs, and their divi- sions into perits, became like the dif- ferent stocks in our public funds, and were bought and sold at different prices from day to day, the parties settling their account at fixed periods; the innocent tulips, all the while, never once appearing in the transac- tions. * Before the tulip season was over,' says Beckman, ' more roots were sold and purchased, bespoke and promised to be delivered, than in all probability were to be found in the gardens of Holland; and when Sem- per Attgustus was not to be had any where, which happened twice, no spe • cies, perhaps, was oftener purciiased and sold.' This kind of sheer gamb- ling reached at length to such a height, that the government found it necessary to interfere, and put a stop to it." — Family Tour in South Holland, The Tei/lerian Museum, an institu- tion for the promotion of learning, founded by an opulent merchant, after whom it is named, contains a few good paintings of modern Dutch ar- tists, and a collection of coins and fossils : among the latter are one or two curious specimens, described by Cuvier, and a laboratory well stored with philosophical instruments. The Haarlem Society possesses a Museum of Natural History. The private collection of paintings belonging to Miss Hoofman will af- ford much gratification to the lovers of the fine arts. There are some good pictures in the Stadhuis by Frans Hals, a painter little known in England, but whose merits may here be fully appre- ciated. A great many 'cotton factories have of late years been establish- ed in this neighbourhood under the patronage of the king ; they have increased both in number and the quantity of goods they manufacture since the separation of Holland from Belgium. There are extensive Bleacheries of linen here : they owe their reputation to some peculiar properly supposed to exist in the \\atcr. Before the dis- covery of bleaching by chlorine, the fine linens made in Silesia, as well as those of Friesland, were sent hither to be bleached; and being then ex- ported direct to England, were named after the country from whence they were embarked, not that in which they were made. Such fabrics are still known in commerce by the name of Hollund. Haarlem is the birth-place of the painters Wynants, Ostade, "Wouver- mans, Berghem, and Ruisdael. In the environs of Haarlem arc some agreeable walks; one of these is to Brcdcrode, a ruined castle, which belonged to the lords of the same name. One of the family was the 40 ROUTE II HAARLEM. Sect. I. distinguished leader in the struggle which freed Holland from Spanish tyranny. LinnaDus resided long in the house of Hartekamp, near Benne- broek, between Haarlem and Leyden, then inhabited by the rich merchant Clifford, whose name and collection he has immortalised in his work, the Hortus Cliffortianus (D. T.). He also composed his " System of Natural History" while living there. The citizens of Haarlem even sur- passed tlieir neighbours of Leyden in their brave resistance to the Spa- niards. Tlie siege of Haarlem pre- ceded that of Leyden ; and as the distinguished conduct of its defenders served as an example of patriotism to their fellow-countrymen, so the bloody tragedy which followed it, and the sacrilegious breach of faith on the part of the conquerors, lighted up a spirit of resistance and abhorrence of the Spaniards, which led the way to a long series of martial exploits per- formed by the Dutcli, in the sieges of Leyden and Alkmaar; and occasioned, in a few short years, the total expulsion of their oppressors from Holland. Haarlem was by no means strongly fortified; indeed, its external defences were weak in the eyes of an engineer, and even its resources within were but small. Tlie garrison was limited to 4000 soldiers, among whom were some Scotch ; but every citizen became a soldier for the occasion ; nay, not men alone, but even women, Ijore arms ; and a body of 300, under the guidance of the heroine Kenau Hasselaer, en- rolled themselves in a company, and did duty with shouldered pike and musket. Though tlie Spaniards liad made formidable breaches in the walls near the gates of the Cross and of St. John, two assaults on them had failed ; and, after seven montlis of fruitless hostilities, and a loss of 10,000 men, they were compelled to turn the siege into a blockade. In order to maintain it with the utmost strictness, and to cut off all approach from the water, a fleet of war-boats was introduced upon the Lake of Haarlem. Several attempts on the part of their friends to throw in sup- plies totally failed; the garrison, hav- ing consumed every thing within the walls down to the grass whicii grew between the stones of tlie streets, and seeing no alternative but to die of starvation, determined to place the women and children in their centre, and cut their way through the enemy's camp. The Spaniards, however, hav- ing heard of this, and fearing tlie ef- fects of their despair, sent a flag of truce, and offered terms of pardon and amnesty, on condition of surrender of the town and 51 of the chief inhabit- ants. A condition so hard would not have been granted, had not these 57 devoted citizens voluntarily yielded themselves up. When the Spaniards entered, they found the garrison of 4000 reduced to 1800. Three days passed, and the promise given by the Spaniards was kept, and the arms of the townspeople were surrendered; but when all suspicion of treachery was lulled, the hlood-hounds of the cruel Alva and his son, Ferdinand of Toledo, were let loose on the unsus- pecting and now unarmed citizens. Ripperda, the governor, and the 57 were first sacrificed ; and afterwards four executioners were called in and kept constantly at work, until £000 persons, including the protestant mi- nisters, tlie soldiers of the garrison, and many citizens, had been inliu- manly l)utchered in cold blood. To- wards the conclusion of the tragedy, the executioners became so exhausted, tiiat the remaining victims were tied two and two, and thrown into tlie Lake of Haarlem. The siege lasted from December, 1572, to July, ) 573. Tour years after, the town again fell into the liands of the Dutch. A trekschuit goes every hour be- tween Haarlem and Amsterdam. A Railroad was projected in 1837, to connect these two cities. Holland. ROUTE II. LAKE OF HAARLEM. 41 On quitting Haarlem, tlie travel- ler should be reminded that the ex- cursion through North HoJhuid, (Route IV.) commences here; and that by following it, he may see the most interesting and primitive part of the country, and reach Amsterdam in 3 or 4 days. The direct road to Amsterdam leads out of a venerable gateway, a relic of the ancient fortifications of tlie town, which probably withstood the attacks of the Spaniards during the memor- able siege. Outside of the gates the traveller has before liira a singularly mono- tonous prospect. The high road to Amsterdam runs as straight as an ar- row, as far as the eye can reach ; on one side of it is the equally straight canal, on the other a uniform row of ■willow trees. The causeway, elevated above the surrounding country, is carried along the summit of a dyke, whose prodigious strength alone re- strains the waters of the Haarlemmer Meer, which presses on it, on the right hand, and divides it from the Y, an arm of the Zuider Zee, on the left. The Lake of Haarlem. — Independ- ent of the threats of the ocean from without, the Dutch have had here an enemy within their walls, as it were, who for many years made a gradual coufiuest of territory. Since the XVth century, the body of water called the Lake of Haarlem has spread itself over, and in fact swallowed up, a large portion of the districts known as the Riiijn, and Amstel-land. Previous to that time the lake can scarcely be said to have existed, except that the spot now in the middle of it, and deep be- lovr the surface, was then occupied by a marsh of considerable extent. To- wards the end of the XVIth century, this realisation of the hydra began to gain head; and, in one sweeping in- undation, 4 small lakes, previously at some distance from each other, owing to a rapid increase of their waters, burst, and united themselves perma- nently into one, overflowing the inter- vening space. At the same time several villages originally at a distance from the water were surrounded by it, and compelled to assume a sort of amphibious existence, half in and half out of the water; and in this state they continue at present. The lake is now 1 1 leagues in circumference ; and the effect of the wind acting upon so large a surface, quite unsheltered from its fury, is appalling ; for though the depth is slight, its waters are heaped up against the sides by a storm to such a height, that nothing but the strength and perfection of tlie dykes prevent tlie bordering districts, already partly below the level of the waters, from being swallowed up in ruin. The annual expense of keeping them in repair is enormous. The principal outlet for the lake is now through the sluices of Katwyk ; and, by means of them, and under skilful and unceasing management, the waters are no longer dangerous, and have not gained upon the land of late ; though at one time they threatened to cut through the narrow neck, or isthmus, which joins North to South Holland, and reduce it to an island. A plan has been suggested for pumping out all the water, and, after conveying it into the sea, render- ing the bed of the lake productive by converting it into arable and pasture land ; such a project, which might sound ridiculous in other countries, will hero probably be carried into ef- fect whenever tlie increased price of agricultural produce offers a fair pro- spect of a return for tlie money re- quired for so vast an undertaking. 20,000 acres, at present beneath the surface of the water, might then be rendered serviceable to man. " The borders of the lake are studded with villas of the wealthy inhabitants of Amsterdam; and its waters are co- vered with boats. The lake is 14 feet deep, 6 feet of which only are water, and 8 feet of mud, the alluvial debris of the mountains in Switzerland, 42 ROUTE If. AMSTERDAM. Sect. I. washed down by the Rhine. The mud is used in the manufacture of the durable and valuable Dutch bricks called clinkers, with which houses are built, and roads paved. The mud is a composition of siliceous earth and clay, blended by nature. — Dr. S. Tlie approach to Amsterdam over causeways, traversing a broad expanse of water, resembles that which leads to Mexico. Another coincidence is, that the Spaniards were engaged in a nearly similar contest in both places. During the siege of Haarlem, there •were frequent combats of an almost ampliibious character, partly in boats, partly on the causeways, between the Dutch and the Spaniards, exactly like those which took place between Cor- tez and the Mexicans. The Dutch had a second time occasion to resort to the like expedient of flooding this part of the country, to resist the armies of Louis XIV. ; and, more recently, the saiue thing was done in the war of the French revolution, 1795. At Halfwege — ^half-u-ay between Haarlem and Amsterdam — there are enormous sluices, which separate the waters of the Y from those of the Haarlem Lake. The eftect of opening them, and allowing the waters of the Y to enter the Haarlem Meer, would be to submerge a great part of the province of Holland to a distance of 30 miles, with an inundation wiiich would cover not only the meadows, but even the dykes themselves. " The relative height of the two waters is exactly regulated by means of sluices and guage-posts, marked with very nice and minute divisions ; and the greatest attention is paid to tlie state of tlie waters at this particular spot: it is one of the principal stations of the Waterstaat (§ 9.); the safety of Amsterdam and the surrounding country from iiunidations depending much upon the management of these two inland seas." — Familif Tour. Tlie road passes over the sluices, close to an old chateau, called Zwan- cnburg ; it then makes a bend, after which it continues in a straight line on to Amsterdam. The most conspicuous objects on approaching the town from the land side are the windmills, one of which is perched on each of the 26 bastions of the old fortifications ; they serve to grind the flour which supplies the town. The fosse surrounding the town is 80 feet wide. The traveller enters by the Haar- lem gate, close to which the Trek- schuits start for Haarlem. Half a post extra is paid on enter- ing and quitting Amsterdam. af Amsterdam. — Inns : Doelen, in the Doelen Straat, the best ; the Doelen, in the Gainalen markt, also first rate ; Hotel des Pays Bas, Doe- len Straat ; very good and comfort- able; table-d'hote at 4daily ; Grandes Armes d' Amsterdam (Wapen van Amsterdam). The principal city of Holland is situated at the confluence of the river Amstel with the arm of the Zuider Zee, called the Y (pronounced ei), which forms the port -. it has 202,364 inhabitants. Its ground-plan hassome- what the shape of a crescent, or half- bent bow ; the straight line represent- ing the string rests on the Y, and the curved Ime forms its boundary on the land side. Its walls are sur- rounded by a semicircular canal or wide fosse ; and within the city are 4 other great canals, all running in curves, parallel with the outer one. They are callpd Prinssen Gracht, Keizers Gracht, Heeren Gracht, and Cingel, the last being the innermost. The Keizers Gracht is 140 feet wide. They are lined with handsome houses, each of the 3 first is at least 2 miles long, and in their buildings as well as dimensions may bear comparison with the finest streets in Europe. The various small canals whidi in- tersect the town in all directions are said to divide it into 95 islands, and to be traversed by no less than 290 bridges. It has been calculated that the expense of bridges, cleansing Holland. ROUTE II. AMSTERDAM. 43 and clearing canals, and repairing dykes, in Amsterdam alone, amounts to' several tliousand guilders daily. Tliis will be better understood when it is known that, were it not for the most skilful management of sluices and dykes, the city of Amsterdam might be submerged at any mo- ment. All things considered, it is one of the most wonderful capitals in Europe; in the bustle of its crowded streets, and in the extent of its com- mercial transactions, it is suqiassed by very few. It is said to |be between 7 and 9 miles in circumference. In the strange intermixture of land and water, it may be compared to Venice ; and the splendour of some of its build- ings, though not equalling that of the Sea Cybele, may be said to approxi- mate to it : the houses are almost all of brick. The whole city, its houses, canals, and sluices, are founded upon piles, which gave occasion to Erasmus 'to say, that he had reached a city, whose inhabitants, like crows, lived on the tops of trees. The upper stratum is literally nothing more than mud and loose sand ; and until the piles are driven through this into the firm sand below, no structure can be raised, with a chance of stability. In 1822, the enormous corn warehouses, ori- ginally built for the Dutch East India Company, actually sank down into the mud, from the piles having given way. They contained at the time more than 70,0(X) cwt. of corn ; a weight which the foundation be- neath was incapable of supporting : the part which still remains presents a curious appearance, being partly below the surface of the ground. A kind of hackney coach common in Amsterdam consists of the body of a coach or fly, mounted upon a sledge, drawn by one horse, while the driver, walking be- side him, holds in one hand a bit of cloth or rag dipped in oil and fastened to the end of a string ; this he con- trives to drop, at intervals, under the runners of the sledge to diminish the friction. It has been often said that a police regulation restricts the use of wheels, from fear lest the rattling of heavy carriages over the stones should shake and injure the founda- tion of the buildings : this, however, is not true. Heavy burdens are al- most entirely transported along the canals, and from thence to the ware- houses on similar sledges. The canals have usually a depth of 3 or 4 feet, half filled with water and half with mud. Every barge that passes stirs this up, and leaves a track behind it, to mark its course, accom- panied by a most noisome effluvia. Dredging machines are constantly at work to clear the mud out of the canals, which is sent to distant parts as manure. IMills have also been em- ployed to give an artificial motion to the waters, and prevent their becoming stagnant ; but the same object is now attained by more simple means. To eflTect a circulation in the canals, is most essential to the health of the in- habitants. The Amstel at its en- trance into the city, is 1 1 inches below the mean level of the German Ocean, the lowest tide is only 1 ^ feet lower than the Amstel. It is therefore evident that the canals can be emptied, and that partially, only at low water. The Damrak is the point of discharge ; at high water the sluices which admit the Amstel into the town are closed for a short time, and the sea water allowed then to circulate through the town, until it is again expelled by the river. A recent improvement has been the construction of a new dyke round the part of the town nearest the sea, to guard it from the inundations which previously, during high tides, used constantly to lay the houses under water, and also to preserve a suflSci- ently clear channel in the river Y to allow an uninterrupted navigation to the port. Tlie mouths of the canals, and the outlet of the Amstel into the sea, are provided with flood-gates of the strongest possible construction, to resist the pressure of high tides. 44 ROUTE II. A>rST£RDAM. Sect. I. In the latter part of the Xlllth century Amsterdam was still a cluster of fishermen's huts, in a salt marsh. Its great advance in wealth and import- ance took place after the siege of Ant- werp ; when the persecutions of the Spaniards in the Flemish provinces drove so many valuable subjects, active merchants and clever manufecturers, to seek for safety and the free exercise of the Protestant faith in Holland. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the Earl of Leicester attempted to gain possession of it by treachery, but failed. It is supposed that Fenelon had Amsterdam in view while describing Tyre in Telemaque. Its prosperity for a long time depended on its ship- ping, which engrossed tlie carrying trade of the whole world, and likewise had the effect of rearing a bold race of sailors, ready to fight the battles of their country, and to brave storms and tempests in every sea under heaven. At one period, the trade in butter and cheese brought one million of ducats annually to Amsterdam. Tlie Bank of Amsterdam, described by Adam Smith, no longer exists : another has been set up by the present king, and the capitalists here still con- tinue the bankers of a large part of Europe. The Miuwfactures of Amsterdam comprehend, besides those of cotton and woollen stuffs, which are to be found every where, one or two which are almost peculiar to the spot ; for example, the refineries of borax, a salt which is produced from the mud of large lakes in Thibet, Persia, and South America ; of camphor, the co- agulated sa)) of a tree, found princi- pally in Cliina : it is used extensively in medicine ; while borax is an ingre- dient for making the solder used by jewellers. Smalt manufactories — smalt is a blue glassy substance pro- duced from cobalt : the artificers of Amsterdam alone know how to refine it in the best manner, by grinding it minutely, and by other methods, which are kept secret. They produce a great variety of shades in the colour, which is chiefly employed in painting china. Rlany other articles are manufactured here, by methods believed to be known only in Amsterdam ; such as zinnober, vermilion, rouge, white lead, and aqua- fortis; gold lace, and a great variety of scents and perfumed oils, are also ob- jects of commerce. The art of cutting diamonds was for a long time confined to the Jews of Amsterdam and Ant- werp. It is supposed not to have been known in Europe earlier than the XVth century. The diamond mills at Amsterdam are numerous, and are exclusively the property of Jews. A visit to one of them is thus described by a recent traveller : — " The son, an intelligent lad, oblig- ingly conducted us through the rooms, and explained the various parts of the process of polishing diamonds. Four horses turn a wheel, setting in motion a number of smaller wheels in the room above, whose cogs acting on regular metal plates, keep them con- stantly in motion. Pulverized dia- mond is placed on these ; and the stone to be polished, fiistened at the end of a piece of wood, by means of an amalgam of zinc and quicksilver, is submitted to the friction of the ada- mantine particles. Tiiis is the only mode of acting upon diamond, which can be ground and even cut by parti- cles of the same substance. In the latter operation, diamond dust is fixed on metal wire that is moved rapidly backwards and forwards over the stone to be cut." — Elliot's Travils. The finest shops are in the Kalvers Straat, the Nieuwendyk, and the War- moes Straat. The Palace, formerly The Stadhuis, or HClel de Ville, is a vast and im- posing edifice of stone : it is recorded that it stands upon 13,695 piles. The architect was Van Campen, and the first stone was laid 1648. It was ori- ginally occupied by the magistracy, for town councils, judicial tribunals, and the like. During the reign of Louis Holland. ROUTE 11. — AMSTERDAM. 45 Buonaparte it became liis palace, and the present King resides in it when- ever lie visits Amsterdam. The main entrance is behind. The treasures of the once celebrated bank of Amster- dam, which used to regulate the ex- changes of Europe, were kept in the vaults below the building. The pic- tures by Vander Heist and Rembrandt, which originally^decorated the interior, are now removed to the Museum ; and it is chiefly remarkable for one grand hall, lined with white Italian marble, an apartment hardly to be surpassed in size or splendour. In addition to this, it is worth while to see the view from the tower on the summit of the build- ing. " This alone can give a correct idea of this wonderful city, with its multitude of narrow streets, broad canals, avenues of green trees, running through tlie heart of the town ; houses, with projecting gables, many of them bowing forward or leaning backwards, from subsidence in their foundations. These form the foreground of the picture. The horizon extends on one side beyond Haarlem and Utrecht to the towers of the Hague ; and nortinvard, over the royal dockyards and harbour, crowded with shipping, to Broek, Saardam, the ship canal leading to tlie Texel, and the Zuider Zee. As I stood on the top of the building, the chimes struck the hour of 3 : in an instant, the hitherto empty square beneath was filled with busy crowds, hurrying in a stream to the focus of the Exchange, like a swarm of ants on a sunny day." — MS. Journ. 1'he present Stadhuis, or Town Hall, is a modern building, on the Achter Burgwal ; it contains some beautiful paintings. The Exchange is by no means a handsome building ; but it demands some respect, when it is considered that Amsterdam enjoyed at one time the commerce of ^ the universe, and that all the extensive transactions were daily carried on in it. It stands upon 5 arches, under which the Am- stel flows ; so that the building and large quadrangle within it are, in fact, a bridge. The foundations of this edifice have recently given way, and it is expected tliat it will soon be replaced by a new building. -^ past 3 o'clock is the daily hour of hiyh change ,- those who enter after the time must pay a small fine. The churches of Amsterdam, strip- ped of almost every decoration at the Reformation, are, as in other parts of Holland, in themselves rather barren of interest, forming a complete contrast to the richly ornamented structures of Belgium. The Oitde Kerk (in Catholic times, St. Nicolas) is remarkable for three ex- ceedingly fine windows of painted glass, executed between 1549 and 1648, for the tombs of several Dutch admirals, and for a list of the persons killed in Amsterdam by tlie Anabap- tists, 1535 ; and in addition, for a fine set of chimes. The organ is esteemed by many not inferior to that of Haar- lem, as far as tone is concerned. The Nieiiwe Kerk, so called, though built in 1408, is situated on the Dam- rak, close to the palace ; it contains among many fine public monuments those of Admiral de Ruitcr, the com- mander who sailed up the Medway, and burnt the English fleet at Chat- ham ; who at different times con- tended with the English admirals Blake, Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who commanded the Dutch at the battle of Solebay. There are also monuments to CaptainBentinck, killed in the battle of Doggcrbank, 1750, and to the poet Vondel. The most re- cent monument is one to the memory of the heroic Van Speyk, who blew up himself and his ship, in the Scheldt, 1 83 1 , rather than vield to the Belgians. (See Route XVII.) The splendidly carved pulpit was executed by Albert \incken Brinck, in 1649. The churches in Holland are per- haps more numerously and regularly attended than even iu England. The 43 EOUTE II. AMSTERDAM, Sect. I. sermons to be preached on Sunday are announced several days before- hand, in placards posted upon the walls, like play-bills with us. In most of the churches service is performed 8 or 4 times. The minister wears the costume of the Puritans in Charles I. 's time — a short black cloak reaching a little below his kuee, with a ruff round his neck. There is an English Episcopal Church liere on the Grsene Burgwal. A Scotch Preshi/terian Church has long been established here. The Jews, who form one tenth of the population of the town, and re- side in a particular quarter, have four Synagogues|: the most splendid is that of the Portuguese, which is worth visiting. The streets leading to it seem but a repetition of Monmouth Street, St. Giles's — the same dirt and filthy smells, the same old clothes, evidently the staple commodity, with odds and ends, heaped up, as it were, from all quarters of the world. Never- theless, the Jews of Amsterdam are, from their wealth, a very influential body. Spinosa the metaphysician was a native of Amsterdam, and a Jew by birth (1632). The Museum or Picture Gallery — placed in the Trippcnhuis (a name derived from its former owner), in the Klovenicrsburgwal, is open to stran- gers every day but Sunday, from 1 2 to 3. It contains the pictures which in Sir Joshua Reynolds's time were in the Stadhuis and Wharf Office, &c. jNIany of the pictures are attached to shutters, which admit of being drawn forward upon liinges. A small douceur to the guardians will procure for visitors tlic advantage of seeing them under the more favourable lights which may be thrown ujion them by thus changing their position. It is completely a National Gallery being composed almost entirely of works of tlic Dutch school, of whicli it contains many chefs-d'oeuvre. The finest picture in the collection is that painted by Van der Heist, " the miracle of the Dutch School," repre- senting the City Guard of Amsterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of IMuns- ter, 1G48; an event which, as it first confirmed the independence of the Dutch nation, was justly considered a subject worthy the pencil of the artist. The figures, 25 in number, are portraits; the names arc inscribed above, but there are no persons in any way distinguished among them. Sir Joshua Reynolds, in describing this picture,'says that one of the|figures represents the Spanish ambassador. This is an error ; the person taken for a Spaniard is the lieutenant of the company. Van Waveren by name, and his dress is the uniform of the Dutch schuttery (militia) of that period. " This is, perhaps, the first picture of portraits in the world, compre- hending more of those qualities which make a perfect portrait than any other I have ever seen. They are correctly drawn, both head and figure, and well coloured, and have a great variety of action, characters, and countenances ; and those so lively and truly express- ing whattliey are about, that the spec- tator has nothing to wish for. Of tliis picture I had heard great commend- ations ; but it as far exceeded my expectation, as that of Rembrandt, the Night Watch, fell below it." Sir ■/. R. — Portraits of 4 individuals of the Company of archers examining the cup which is to form the prize of the best marksman. Sir Joshua calls it an admirable picture. — Portrait of Mary, Queen of William III. of England, ^'an der Ilelst is a scarce master, and his works are no where to be found in equal perfection with those at Amsterdam. Rembrandt. — The picture called the Night M'atch, but now believed to represent a company of archers, with their leader, Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts, appears to have been much damaged, "but what re- mains seems to be painted in a poor manner." — " So far am I from think- Holland. ROUTE II. — AMSTERDAM. 47 ing it deserves its great reputation, that it was with difficulty I could per- suade myself that it was painted by Rembrandt : it seemed to me to have more of the yellow manner of 13oll. The name of Rembrandt, however, is certainly upon it, with the date, 1642." Sir J. It. — A far superior painting to the preceding is the portraits of 5 blasters of the Drapers' Company, and their servant. They are seated round a table, apparently conversing on matters of business. Tlie heads are finely painted, particularly the one nearest to the right. There arc parts of this painting which, in force of execution, tlie painter probably never surpassed. — The Decapitation of St. John. Carel du Jardin. — Portraits of the 5 Governors of the Spinhouse at Am- sterdam. " They are all dressed iu black; and being upon alight back- ground, have a wonderful relief. The heads are executed with a most careful and masterly touch, and the repose and harmony of colouring spread over the whole picture are admirable." Sir J. if. — The portraits of this artist are rare, as he is generally looked upon as a painter of landscapes, sheep, and small figures. There are 3 other good pictures by him, and no other collection probably possesses works of his, showing equal excellence. Gerard Dow. — The Evening School, a painting in which the effect of candlelight is wonderfully por- trayed : no less than 5 different lights are introduced into the picture, and variously thrown upon the 12 figures which compose it. — A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix, surprisingly finished. — \ Girl holding a Light. — A Woman at a Window with a Hare in her Hand. Paul Potter A Landscape with cattle, and a Woman suckling a Child. — Orpheus charming the Beasts. — A Bear Hunt, one of the few paint- ings by this master, in which the figures are as large as life. A part of the original painting has peeled off the canvass ; but, though so much impaired, its original excellence is still to be discovered. Schalken William III., a portrait by candlelight. H. Walpole says, that the artist made the King hold the candle until the tallow ran down and burnt his hand. — Two Boys ; one eating soup, the other an S'^g, with his face slobbered over by the yolk ; called " Every one to his fancy." — Vandyk. — Portraits of the Children of Charles I. : one of them, the Prin- cess Mary, became the wife of Wil- liam II. Prince of Orange. — Francis Vander Borgb.t, a masterly portrait. W. Vandtrvelde. — View of Amster- dam, taken from the Schreyershoek Tower. "One of the most capital works of this artist." Sir J. R Several paintings of Sea Fights between the Dutch and English, in which theDutch were victorious : one represents the battle between De Ruiter and Gene- ral Monk, in which 4 English line-of- battle ships were taken. — Several Calms at Sea, — painted with the most exquisite clearness, and with that won- derful effect of distance over the sur- face of the water which is the pecu- liar excellence of Vandervelde. Buclihtiysen. — The Pensionary John de Witt embarking on board of the Fleet in 1665. — A view of Amster- dam. Oitade A. : A Painter in his Study. The artist's own portrait. — Osfade, J. .- A laughing peasant with a jug in his hand. Berghem. — Several fine Land- scapes ; one particularly, with cattle splashing up the water as they cross a river. Jiuisdad A magnificent Water- fall.— The castle of Benthcim. The same sulyect is to be found at Dres- den. JFouvermarts. — A Stag Hunt in this artist's best manner. — The Chasse au Vol, Hawking Party. — A picfuie re- presenting othctrs plundered, and bound by peasants. The horse is ex- quisitely painted. All three are very 48 ROUTE II AMSTERDAM. Sect. I. fine : there are besides many others of great excellence. Toihrs. — Temptation of St. An- thony. A Peasant drinking and smoking. Ferdinand liol. : Portrait of Ad- miral de Ruiter. — Miereveld : Por- traits of William I. and Maurice, Princess of Orange. — A Van de Venne : Portrait of William I., taken after his death. — Lievens : Portrait of Vondel, the Poet. — Terrhurg : A Lady in White Satin. The Ministers at the Congress of IMunster.— i7(";r/e- hoctcr ; Several pictures of fowls, game, rare birds, &c. , unequalled in their class probably in the world. One of the most remarkable is that known as " the Floating Feather," in which a Pelican is introduced with Ducks swimming. — Van Hiiysenm : Fruit and Flower pieces. — Weenix : Dead Game. — Snyders ; Dead Wild- fowl. All perfect specimens of these various artists. Caspar Grayer : The Adoration of the Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross. — Cuyp and Both: Some ad- mirable landscapes. Jan Steen is perliaps no where seen to greater advantage. — A Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing a Horn to let tlie neigiibours know that the Rolls are ready. — A Village Quack. — The Fete of St. Nicholas. An occasion when the Dutch every year make presents of bonbons to their children who behave well, while the naughty ones are left without any thing, or receive a vvhipjiing. The story is admirably told in tiiis picture, which is a clief-d'ocuvre of tlie master. Van dcr Mecr. — The staircase of the House at Delft, where William T. was sliot. (Cloister of St. Agatha.) The INIuseum also contains one of the most remarkable collections of Prints in Euro})e, jjarticularly rich in the Dutch and Flemish masters. It extends to 200 portfolios. Tlie Stadhuis (formerly the Ad- miralty) contains good pictures — por- traits of burgomasters and citizens of Amsterdam by Van der Heist, Frans Hals, Govcrl Flinck, &c, ; also a capital Linyelhach, a view of the Palace while building ; and a view of it finished by Van der Ulft. In the S'ljiti-hoiise or Workhouse, in the Nieuwe Prince Gracht, are se- veral pictures and portraits of Direc- tors of tlie establishment, by Rubens and Vandyk, exceedingly fine, and well worth notice. There are several first-rate Private collections of pictures, especially that belonging to M. Six. It contains — G. Dow, A Girl with a Birdcage, exquisitely finished. — Mctzu, A Fish- wife. — Cuyp, Sunny Landscape, ships and water ; — and a moonligiit view. — Hohhema, Landscape. — Riiisdael, Ditto. — Wynants, Ditto. — Paul Pot- ter, Cattle ; good. — Jan Steen, A Jew- ish Marriage. — Weenix, Dead Game. The Galleries of M. van Loon, M. van Brienen, and M. van der Hoop, also contain many fine specimens of the Dutch school. M. \an der Hoop has an excellent Landscape by H. Vandevelde, with figures of the painter and his family. Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and extensive bounty of the Charitable Institutions which it sup- ports, for the most part by voluntary contributions of its benevolent citi- zens. It is recorded, that when some one in conversation with Charles II. prognosticated speedy ruin to the city from the meditated attack of Louis XIV.'s armies, Charles, who was well acquainted with the country from a long residence in it, replied, " I am of ojiinion that Providence will preserve Amsterdam, if it were only for the great charily they have for their poor." This city alone, it is said, numbers no fewer than '10 insti- tutions of benevolence, including hos- pitals for the reception of the aged and infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, foundlings, &c. " From all we could learn concern- ing these public and private institu- tions for charitable purposes, the fol- Holland. ROUTE II. AMSTERDAM. 49 lowing summary, taken from an old author, who visited Amsterdam nearly a hundred years ago, may be con- sidered as pretty nearly a correct statement at the present day. " This city is said to have twenty thousand poor every day at bed and board. The almshouses are many, and look more like princes' palaces than lodgings for poor people. First, there are houses for poor old men and women ; then a large square place for three hundred widows ; then there are hospitals for boys and girls, for burghers' children, and for strangers' children, or those called foundlings. All these boys and girls have, every Sunday, and other days of worship, two doits, given them by the fathers of these houses, the which the children put into the deacons' bag when they gather for the poor in the churches. Then there is an hospital for fools, and a bedlam ; then there are houses where common beggars, and gamesters, and frequenters of tap-houses are kept hard at work : there is also a house called a Rasp-house (its name is de- rived from the employment of the prisoners, which at one time was con- fined to rasping logwood), where petty thieves, and such as slash one another with knives, such as beg with cheat- ing devices, men pretending to have been taken by the Turks, others that pretend wreck at sea, and such as beg with a clapper or bell, as if they could not speak or hear ; — such as these are kept hard at work, rasping every day fifty pounds between two of them, or else are beaten ; and if they yet i-ebel, and won't work, they are set in a tub, where, if they do not pump, the water will swell over their heads. " All these sorts of hospitals and almshouses are stately buildings richly adorned with pictures, and their lodg- ings very neat and clean. In some of the boys' and girls' hospitals there are 1500 ; in some 800, and in some 500 in a house. Then they have houses where a man or woman may have their diet, washing, and lodging, for life, by giving a small sum of money : these are called Provcnicrs'' houses." " Whether these various establish- ments are capable of relieving the whole mass of human wretchedness which this capital, in common with all large cities, must contain would re- quire a long residence to detei-mine ; but we could not help making the same remark here as in Rotterdam — that in all our rambles we had not met with a drunken person in the streets ; nay more, that we had not observed a man, woman, or child in rags, or met with a real object of compassion, in any part of the town; and the only beggars that accosted us, and those were in some of the lower parts of the town, were decre- pit old men." — Family Tour in S, Holland. One division of the Spin-house was formerly devoted to the purpose of a house of correction for offences which may rank between a fault and a crime; such as in other countries arc punished by the domestic code, but for which family authority is not always suffi- ciently strict in enforcing punish- ment ; though at the same time the discipline of a prison would be too severe. Thus, a disobedient child, an extravagant wife, or a drunken hus- band, if their offence were proved against them, and they were sent hither by their friends, were subjected to modified coercion and restraint, until, by penitence, and promise of amendment, they should have atoned for their misdemeanors. The Dutch are not altogether ab- sorbed in commerce, so as to be able to devote no lime to literature and the arts ; witness the society called Felix Mentis, which is founded and supported entirely by merchants and citizens. The building is situated in the Keisers Gracht. In its nature it bears some resemblance to the Royal Institution in London. It contains a library, museum, collections of casts 50 ROUTE II. AMSTERDAM. Sect. I. of ancient statues, of chemical and mathematical instruments, and a very fine concert-room and observatory. Lectures are given in various branches of art, science, and literature. Tliough tliere is little in the building, perliaps, to take up the time of a stranger merely passing through the city, any intelligent individual, about to reside here, would find it a most delightful resoiu'ce. There are many other learned so- cieties. The Royal Dockyard, on the island of Kattenburg, is the largest naval depot and arsenal in Holland ; there are usually several vessels of war on the slocks. It is not difficult to obtain admission to view it; but an Englishman will iind that it is not to be compared with tlie Dockyards of his own country. Th ea tres. — Tb ere are three theatres, set apart for performances in Dutch, German and Freiicli, besides an Ita- lian opera occasionally. The Promenades are the Plantaadjc, or plantation, at the end of the Heeren Graclit, surrounded by canals, and not far from the high bridge over the Amstel, near the place where it enters the town, "in a fine broad sheet of water, and with scarcely perceptible current." Tlie bridge is one of the most favourable points for obtaining a view of the tow n. The fortifications of Amsterdam are no longer of any use as works of strength : on each of the 26 bastions is placed a windmill, and the views from the ramparts are curious. The want of spring-water is a great evil and inconvenience in this large city. The liouses are provided with tanks, in whicli every drop of rain that falls is treasured up : this is used by the better classes for culinary pur- poses. Drinking wateris brought from Utrecht in stone bottles ; but the main supply comes from the river Vecht above Weesp, about 12 miles ofi", in very large water barges, which may be seen on the various canals ; and the poorer classes who have no cisterns, are obliged to content themselves witli this. On the first arrival of these barges, the deck is on a level with the surface of the canal ; but a pump is inserted in the middle of it, and, as the cargo is disposed of to customers, the vessel gradually rises, until, when empty, it floats on the top, and is carried back for a fresh supply. All the water in the neighbourhood being either brackish or putrid, good water becomes an article of considerable commerce, and this precious commo- dity is sold at a large price, especially in winter, when it sometimes be- comes necessary, in severe wea- ther, to cut a passage through the ice which covers the canals, at a heavy expense, to allow the water barges to pass. A portion of the poorer inhabitants live entirely in the cellars of the houses. There is also a class who live constantly upon the canals, making their vessels their home. " In this and in many other respects the Dutch bear a strong resemblance to the Chinese -. like tliat industrious Tand economical race, they keep their hogs, their ducks, and other domestic ani- mals constantly on board. Their cabins display the same neatness as the parlours of their "countrymen on shore ; the women employ themselves in all the domestic offices, and are assiduous in embellishing their little sitting-rooms with the labours of the needle ; and many of them have little gardens of tulips, hyacinths, ane- mones, and various other flowers. Some of these vessels are of great length, but generally narrow, suitable to the canals and sluices of the towns. Kach vessel is generally navigated by the members of one family, of which the female part is by no means the least useful ; nothing being more common than to see the women steer- ing, poling, hauling the ropes, or em- ployed on some other duties of the craft." — Famili/ Tour. Near the cast end of the city, by Holland. ROUTE II. AMSTERDAM. 51 the water side, is a tower, called the Schreijershoek Toren: it is situated near the quay from which vessels used to set sail, and received its name from the tears which were shed by friends, wives and children, at the departure ! of their husbands and fathers, or other 1 relatives and friends. | The humble dwelling of the heroic ; De Ruiter still exists on the Qua! of the Y. Near the Saardam stairs, also on the quay, stood the Herring Packery Tou-er. It received its name from a row of small houses, occupied by rope-sel- lers, dealers in marine stores, &c. ; in front of which, during the season of the herring fishery, all the business connected with tlie examining, sorting the fisli, and repacking them for foreign markets was transacted in the presence of officers appointed by the authorities. Every proceeding with respect to the herring fishery is re- gulated by a committee of managers, or shareholders, called commissioners of the Great Fishery (by which is meant the herring fishery), approved of by the government, and under the inspection of officers appointed by them. These regulations are exceed- ingly minute and precise. " The period when the fishery might begin is fixed at 5 minutes past 12 o'clock, on the night of the 24th June ; and the master and pilot of every vessel leaving Holland for the fishery are obliged to make oath, that they will respect the regulation. The species of salt to be used in curing the different sorts of herrings is also fixed by law ; and there are endless regulations with respect to the size of the barrels, the number and thickness of the staves of which they were to be made, the guttings and packing of the herring, the branding of the barrel. These regulations are intended to secure to tlie Hollanders that superiority which they had early attained in the fishery, to obtain for the Dutch herrings the best price in foreign markets, and to prevent the herrings being injured by the bad faith of individuals." — Mac- cidloch's Dictionary of Commerce. The fishery, however, is sadly fallen off at present ; only 200 herring vessels are sent out from the whole of Holland, instead of 2000, the number employed in former days. Still the arrival of the herrings is looked for- ward to witli much anticipation at Amsterdam : a premium is given to the first buss whitli lands a cargo, small kegs are then sold at a high price: and a single herring often fetches as much as 5s. The art of curing herrings was invented by one William Beukels, of Biervliet, a Fleming; but it is not the fact that the Dutch and English derive from his name the word PICKLE ; which is nothing more than the Dutch peAc/ (brine). In ve- neration for one who had conferred so great a benefit on his country, the emperor Charles V. made a pilgrim- age to his tomb. Excellent cura^oa is made at Am- sterdam, at two thirds of the English price : it may be purchased very good at Wynand Focking's, in de Pylstteg. Anisette is another good liqueur ma- nufactured here : the best may be got of Bols, in het Loosjed. Conveyances. — There are diligences several times a day from Amsterdam to Rotterdam and Utrecht, and a great many trekschuits. A steamer goes to Hamburg, every 10 days from April to November, set- ting off' early in the morning ; so that it is necessary to go on board before 12 at night. A place in the first cabin costs 50 guilders : in the after cabin, 20 ; 4-wheel carriages, "O grs. When two or more passengers take places together, they pay 10 florins less. A steam-boat runs twice a day to Saardam. A ferry-boat is constantly plying to Buiksloot and the mouth of the Tesel ! canal. The Post Office is on the Voorburg- wal, bciiind the Palace. The Passport Office is in the Staal \ Straat. D 2 52 ROUTE III. SHIP CANAL. Sect. I. ROUTE III. EXCURSION FROM AMSTERDAM TO BROEK, SAARDAJI, AND THE GREAT NORTH HOLLAND SHIP CANAL. A Steamer runs 2 or 3 times a day between Amsterdam and Saardam, in about an hour. It returns immedi- ately, and a person who goes by it, to visit Peter the Great's cottage, must remain at Saardam 2 or 3 hours, un- til the vessel makes another passage across. The entire excursion will occupy the greater part of a day. The nature of it, and the most agreeable mode of makinn; it, may be understood from the following extract from a MS. Journal : — '' One of the ferry-boats -which are constantly crossing between Amster- dam and North Holland, conveyed us to Buiksloot, a distance of about a mile. The harbour of Amsterdam is fenced in with two long lines of piles driven into the mud, having open spaces at intervals, to allow vessels to enter and depart. These openings are closed at niglit with booms, or large trees co- vered with iron spikes, which are drawn across and fastened \vith chains. Not many years ago, it was discovered that some molluscous animal had com- mitted such extensive ravages in the woodwork, that though the piles were of tlic finest heart of oak, they were in a short time reduced to a state re- sembling honeycomb, so as to require constant renewal. In traversing the harbour, we re- marked long rows of little pavilions, or cabinets, raised upon wooden piers, stretching far out from shore, several feet above the water. These are summer houses belonging to the ci- tizens, the owners of pleasure-boats, who delight to come hither and smoke their pipes and sip their wine, beer, or coffee. From the spot where we landed, we could not fail to stop and admire the prospect presented of Am- sterdam, seen through a net-work, as it were, of rigging, spars, and masts : above which rise steeples and towers without number, that of the old Stad- huis being the most conspicuous. No- where is the city seen to greater ad- vantage ; as far as the eye can reach up and down, there seems no end to the long line of vessels. It is a pic- ture of wealth and industry, bearing testimony to the extent of the trade, which is still carried on with almost all parts of the globe. Buiksloot is a large village at the Waterland dyke, where carriages are kept for hire, to convey travellers to the two celebrated places Broek and Saardam. The sum we paid for the hire of a two-horse vehicle was 10 guilders. On the way to Buiksloot every body should turn aside to view the Grand Ship Canal of North Holland which commences here, directly opposite Amsterdam, and extends all the way to Helder and the Texel, a distance of 50 miles. At the surface it is 125 ft. wide, at the bottom 36 ft., a breadth sufficient to admit two frigates to pass, and probably greater than that of ^ny other canal in the world ; and it is 22 ft. deep. The lock gates at the entrance exceed in di- mensions the largest in the docks of Liverpool ; they are founded upon piles driven through tlie mud into sand. The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 10 ft. below the mean heiglit of the sea, and of course many feet below high tides. As a work of utility this canal deserves the highest praise, since it enables vessels to enter and quit the port of Amsterdam with the greatest safety, and without any delay, in de- fiance of contrary winds, and unim- peded either by the storms or the thou- sand sand-banks of the Zuider Zee (one of the most dangerous of seas) : at the same time they avoid the trouble and risk of passing the baratthe mouth of the Y, called the Pampus, over which lay the only outlet to the sea be- fore this canal was made. Large ves- sels were formerly obliged to discharge Holland. ROUTE III. SHIP CAXAL. BROEK. 53 their cargoes on the outside of the har- bour of Amsterdam, and were tlien lifted out of the water, and floated 0%'er the bar, by means of a machine called a camel. Tliis is a species of double chest of wood, the two halves of which are shaped to fit the hull of a ship. Being tilled with water, and sunk, they are attached to the sides of the vessel to be lifted. Tlie water is then pumped out of them, and of course, as they become buoyant, they raise tlie ship with them. The time employed in tracking a vessel from Amsterdam to the Texel by the canal is 18 hours, and vessels were not unfrequently de- tained as many weeks by tempestuous weatherand other obstacles, before they could make this short voyage by sea. The canal has several locks, opposite Amsterdam, at Buiksloot, Purme- rende, Zype, and Nieuwedeep. The difficulties which opposed the formation of this canal, from tlie na- ture of the ground consisting of low swamp and loose sand, through which it must needs be carried, increase our admiration of the skill and perse- verance by which it was planned and executed. It was finished in 1825, at a cost of from 10 to 12 million guilders, nearly one million sterling. 'I'lie only disadvantage to which it is liable is that of being choked up by ice in winter. Some years ago, 35,000 guild- ers, about 3000/., were expended in cutting a passage through the ice for several outward-bound vessels. But to return to Buiksloot. The road to Broek we found very dull ; it runs by the side of a canal, along winch men and women, harnessed like horses to the towing rope, were sub- mitting to the drudgery of tracking barges laden with fruit and vegetables for the Amsterdam market. The ha- bitations which we passed on the way are mostly cottages of one story, sur- mounted by roofs nearly twice as high as the walls ; these serve as store- rooms for the winter stock of hay. Bboek [pronounced BrookJ, cele- brated as the cleanest village in the world, is a place of considerable ex- tent, built on the border of a large pond or lake : its 800 inhabitants are either taken up with the manufacture of those little round cheeses known all over the world as Dutch cheeses, an article of great traffic and source of considerable wealth to the province of North Holland ; or they are retired merchants, landed proprietors, under- writers, stock-brokers, or tradesmen who have already amassed large for- tunes. There is neither horse nor cart road through the place ; so we were obliged to leave our vehicle at a small inn on its outskirts, and to walk through it. The lanes or pas- sages which intersect it are paved with bricks or little stones set in pat- terns. Broek has been the subject of many exaggerated descriptions : this, for instance, is dignified in the Guide- books by the name of mosaic. The paths are strewed with sand or shells also arranged in patterns, so precise is the neatness which here prevails. Xo carriage is allowed to enter, be- cause its narrow alleys are not broad enough to admit them. The houses are mostly of wood, verj- scrupulously painted white and green ; indeed, it has been said that some people here keep a painter in their house all the year round, tliat the building may always preserve the same freshness of aspect within and without ; but this is another exaggeration. Almost all the houses glitter in the sun with roofs of polished tiles of different co- lours ; the habitations of the poorer classes are usually only of one story ; those of the rich are for the most part of the style which has been appro- priately called " the florid Cockney,'" something between Grecian, Chinese, and Saracenic : one has a pasteboard - looking front, intended to represent a temple j another is painted with such various colours as to call to mind the scenery of a theatre; all vie with one another in extravagance and absur- dity. Many of them are planted as D 3 54f ROUTE III BROEK. Sect. I. usual at the edge of canals, anil are approached by bridges formed of a couple of planks. It must be con- fessed tliat Broek has an inanimate and listless appearance, chiefly owing to the custom of barring the front door, and closing tiie windows next the street with shutters. No one should visit Broek without entering into one of the houses, as the interior is far more curious than the outside. The greater part of the houses are private dwellings, and of course stran- gers are not admitted without an in- troduction to their owners. Not being provided with such recommendation, we were content to enter one of the numerous cottages, or dairy farms, where cheese is made, and wliere a small present procured us admission. It was amusing to observe the anxiety with which one of the children of the house laid down a wet cloth before us at the door, in order that we might clean our feet upon it, and thus in- troduce no pollution into their dwell- ing. Before almost every house in the place we had remarked a large collec- tion of shoes and sabots, for the in- mates usually put them oft' at the door, like tlie Turks, and walk through the house in slippers or stockings; and even the Emperor Alexander, it is said, on visiting Broek, was compelled to comply with this usage. We were introduced at the side : the main entrance to this and the other houses of the place, according to the custom peculiar to North Holland, remains closed, save upon great occasions, such as a marriage, a funeral, or christening. On entering the house, we found a stable for the cows in winter running round three sides of it, the centre and remaining side being set apart for human beings. The cows were all absent from home in their summer quarters, — the fields. I am sure that nine-tenths of the poor people of England, and a much larger pro- portion of the Irish, are not so well and cleanly lodged as the brutes in this country. The pavement was of Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, not painted or rough sawn, but as smooth and as clean as a dining-table in an English farm-house. From one end of the stable to the other runs a gutter, and above it, over each stall, a hook is fastened in the ceiling. When the cattle are within doors, their tails, from motives of cleanliness, that they may not dangle in the dirt and besmear their comely sides, are tied up to these hooks in the ceiling ! I was interrupted in these researches into the household economy, by the discharge of a whole bucket of water into my shoes, and to my dismay found that a servant, too intent upon the work of purification in wliich he was engaged, to pay any attention to inquisitive strangers, had, in cleaning out the gutter, thus thrown an unin- tentional damper on my inquiries. We saw a great numbef'^of cheeses in various stages of preparation, some in the press, others soaking in water and imbibing salt, and every part of the process distinguished by the most re- fined purity. A vast quantity of these cheeses (called here Edam cheeses, but known all over the world as Dutch cheeses), are made here and in otlier parts of N. Holland. They are sold at the markets of Alkmaar, Hoorn, &c. and thence arc exported to the most distant countries of the globe. The closed door in every house, mentioned above, leads to an apart- ment which is rarely entered or opened. For the most part its pre- cincts are never crossed, save by the housewife lierself, who once a week unfastens the shutters, takes down all the china, dusts it, and scrubs the furni- ture ; and after scouring the walls and floor, and polishing the stoves, closes up the door and shutters again, till the revolving week brings round another day of purification. We were lucky enough to be admitted even into this sanctum, and duly appreciated the I tidiness of the whole ; the exact mar- shalling of the china cups and tea- pots, under whose weight every shelf Holland. ROUTE III. SAARDA>r, ETC. 55 and ledge seemed to groan ; and the I picturesqueness of the old-fashioned furniture. After leaving the humble ' cottage and dairy, we were admitted into the garden attached to one of the •■ largest mansions; it is, we believe, the property of a rich clergyman, and is the show place at Broek, only be- i cause it surpasses in its absurdities all the others. In the miscellaneous na- ture of its contents, it beats the famous garden descril)ed in the " Groves of Blarney" all to nothing. Such an ; accumulation of pavilions, arbours, j summer-houses, pagodas, bridges, and j temples, Gothic, Grecian, Chinese, 1 and rustic, I had never before seen j collected together. In one spot, a Swiss cottage was tenanted by two | wooden puppets, dolls as large as life, I one of which smoked a pipe, while the other, a female, spun, and even sung, all by the aid of clock-work. In one corner of this toyshop garden was a wooden garde de chasse, with a sham musket, in the attitude of one about to shoot ; very much to the terror of crows, beggars, and children ; and the ponds were slocked with paste- board swans, ducks, and mermaids. Witli all its absurdity and extra- vagance, Broek is a place which de- serves to be seen as a curiosity ; but, neither in the bad taste displayed in the village itself, nor in the quaint manners of its inhabitants, must it be regarded as a characteristic specinien of Holland ; as the village is, in fact, unlike any other, and exhibits a cari- cature of Dutch neatness and clean- liness, as well as of Dutch taste. An English traveller, fond of agri- cultural pursuits, would find much more gratification in a visit to the neighbouring small town of Purme- rende. Near it he will see the great drained lake called Beemster ; here he will find the richest meadows, the finest cattle, the neatest farm-houses, and the most perfect dairies and cow- stables. Here he may taste in spring and summer the finest butter and richest cream in the world. He may also learn many useful particulars re- specting the Dutch system of grazing and breeding cattle. If he has a taste for hydraulics, he might here draw a comparison between the wind draining mills by means of the screw of Archi- medes, and the method of draining, jn/s-called Dutch, still pursued in the fens of Lincoln and Cambridgeshire. This district, which is more parti- cularly described in the following Route (IV. ), would afibrd much gra- tification to any intelligent traveller, whatever his pursuits, and give him a more correct idea of Holland and the manners of the Dutch, than a mere visit to Broek. To proceed from Broek to Saar- dam the road must be retraced nearly all the way to Buiksloot : from thence to Saardam the road runs along the back or ridge of a huge sea dyke, which follows the indentations of the shore, and keeps out the sea from a district so intersected in every direc- tion by canals, that the extent of water nearly equals that of dry land. Saardam (properly Zaa.vdaji). — Inn, the Otter, famed for its fish dinners and high charges : it lies close to the water, with a tine view of the river and shipping. This town stands at the junction of the Zaan with the Y : it has 9000 inhabitants. It is remarkable for the n\imber of windmills, of which there are about 400, some of gigantic size, along the banks of the Zaan, extend- ing to the neighbouring villages of Zaandyk, Koeg, Wormerveer, and Krommenie, which form together a street nearly 5 miles long. The wind- mills are turned to a great variety of uses besides thatof grinding corn. The water is pumped up, and land drained, timber is sawed, paper is made, to- bacco ground into snufF, rapeseed crushed for the oil, and colours ground for the painter, entirely by their agency. Tiie oil mills are well worth the attention of persons ac- quainted with the state of similar works in England. The oil trade is D 4 56 ROUTE IV. — HAARLEM TO THE HELDER. ScCt. I. of great importance here. In some of these windmills a peculiar kind of sandstone brought from the neigh- bourhood of Bremen is reduced into dust, solely to furnish the Dutch housewife with sand for her floor. Far more important are those mills in which the volcanic trass, brought from the borders of tlie Rhine near Andernach, are ground to powder, to supplv, when mixed with lime and sand, that valuable cement used in constructing locks, sluices, and dykes, w hich has tiie property of hardening under water. Saardam is, secondly, remarkable for the cottage or hut in which Peter the Cren^ lived in 1C9G, while working as a common shipwright in tlie ship- yards of Mynheer Calf, a rich mer- chant, in order to enable himself to instruct his subjects in the artof build- ing ships. He went by the name of Peter Baas, or blaster Peter, among his fellow-labourers; wore a common carpenter's dress, and was seen in that costume hard at work by the Great Duke of Marlborough. The building is of rough planks, and inclined much on one side, from the foundation liaving given way. It has been bought by the Princess of Orange, sister of the Emperoi Alex- ander, who, in order to protect so venerable a relic from the destroying effects of the weather, has caused a case to be built over it, which can be closed with shutters. It consists of two small rooms : in one of them Js Peter's bed, which is nothing better than a cupboard, closed in front with doors : above is a loft, which can only be entered by a ladder. The walls of the two rooms are so covered with names from all countries of the world, in pen, pencil, ink, or cut with a knife, I that it is hardly possible to lay your I finger upon a vacant inch. Among the rest is that of the Emperor Alex- i ander, who has caused a marble tablet to be let into the v.all with the words " Petro Magno — Alexander; " I but, if we recollect right, the latter ' name is written in letters so much larger than the former, as to throw some doubt as to which of the two it is meant should confer, and which receive, the honour. The period of Peter's stay at Saar- dam was much more limited than is generallj' supposed : it did not exceed three days. He suffered so much inconvenience from the concourse of idle gazers who assembled to look at him, that he preferred retiring to Amsterdam, where he could work in comparative privacy within the walls of the dockyard of the East India Company. Large ships are no longer built at Saardam. ROUTE IV. HAARLEJI TO THE HELDER, AND BACK TO A3ISTERDAM. Posts. Eng. Miles. By Alkmaar - .3| = 18 bet Zand - 3^ = 17 het Xieuwe Diep 2 = 9^ Helder - f = 1^ 8j 46 There is a daily ccach from Haar- lem to Alkmaar. This excursion may be made in Si or 4 days, though it deserves a longer time to be devoted to it. Alkmaar, which is only half a day's journey from Haarlem, may be the first halt- ing place ; thence to the Helder is a journey of 8 hours. From Helder to Hoorn will occupy the next day; and by starling early on the 4th the village of Broek and Saardam may be visited on the way, and Amsterdam be reached in the evening. The post extends no further than Sand ; but good horses may be hired from thence to the Helder. North Holland, lying as it does out of the great route between Amster- dam and Rotterdam, is but rarely visited by travellers. The inhabit- ants, from living so far removed from intercourse with strangers, retain more of the old customs and habits, as well as dress, of their forefathers, than is Holland. ROUTE IV. — HAAKLEM TO THE HELDER. found in South Holland. In this respect it is the most singular pro- vince in the country ; but it is, besides, physically interesting, from its posi- tion and the nature of the soil. It is a peninsula, projecting into the midst of the sea : the borders of it contiguous to the ocean consist of sand ; the rest is clay and fens : its length is about 20 leagues, and its greatest breadth 5 or 6. The land lies, almost every- where, below the level of the ocean, and is protected from its inroads, from Kykduin along the coast of the Zui- der Zee to Zaandam and Beverwyk, by large dykes, which, in the neigh- bourhood of the Helder, surpass in size and strength all that are to be met with in the whole of Holland, except those of West Kappel, in Zealand ; so stupendous are they, that, on their account alone, this corner of Europe deserves to be explored. It is inter- sected in its entire length by the Great North Holland canal (see p. 52.), through which almost the whole com- merce of Amsterdam now passes. A short distanceofl'its shores were fought some very memorable engagements between the Dutch and English, espe- cially that of Camperdown, gained by Lord Duncan. The fortress of the Helder, rising out of sand and waves, and the roads of the Texel, lie at the termination of it. The cattle fed upon thistongue of land are famed for their beauty and tlie abundance and rich- ness of the milk and clieese which they yield; the sheep for the fineness of their fleeces and the excellence of their ; mutton. Those who take an interest in hydraulics will find many objects worthy of their attention ; and the works along the New Diep will not be passed unnoticed by those who can appreciate the objects in view, and the means by which they have been at- tained. Last of all, we must espe- cially observe, that the females of North Holland are particularly dis- tinguished by their beauty, by the remarkable clearness of their com- i plexions, and by the neatness and gracefulness of their costume, wliich is almost peculiar to the district. The 1 back of the head is encircled by a I broad fillet of pure gold, shaped like a horse-shoe, which confines the hair, i and terminates on each side of the temple in 2 large rosettes, also of pure gold, suspended somewhat like 1 blinkers before the eyes of a horse ; over this is worn a cap or veil of tiie ; finest and richest lace, with lappets hanging down the neck ; and a pair i of enormous gold ear-rings. It is a very graceful head-dress, particularly when the features which it conceals are pretty. These ornaments are almost always, even among the lower classes, of real gold, and the cost of them is considerable. Great sacrifices I are made to purchase them, and they are considered heir-!ooms in a family. It is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the landlndies of the iims in North Holland j they are very extortionate, if indeed they are not great cheats ; in two instances, at Alkmaar, in the Castle, and at the Helder, the author of that valuable little book of travels, " Dates and Distances," was absolutely fleeced by a regularly laid plan of systematic imposition. Though he had made a bargain on entering these inns, in neither instance was the slightest re- spect shown to the agreement ; but, when the bills were produced, the charges were found double the amount stipulated. It is proper to warn tra- vellers of this, though they will scarcely find means of putting a stop to the evil. The immediate neighbourhood of Haarlem is pleasing ; not far from the road, and backed by trees, stood the Castle of Brederode, now a pictu- resque ruin : beyond this come the Dunes, from whose ridges a view ex- tends on the right over the Wyker meer, covered with shipping, even to the windmills of Saardam, which may be discerned on a clear day. Near Velsen botanists may view a splendid collection of exotic plants at the villa of JNIr. Vander Hoop. Admittance D 5 58 ROUTE IV. — BEVERWTK. ALKMAAU. Sect. I. is gained by applying to the gardener. After passing Velscn we arrive at Beverwyk. Inn, Heerenlogcment. A considerable town, a pattern of Dutch purity and neatness, in itr. clean streets, villa-like houses, with fresh painted jalousies and window- sills, and its rows of trees clijjped like hedges. At Prinzens Bosch, or Kruidberg, near Beverwyk, a coun- try seat of William III., tlie expedi- tion to England, which led to the dethronement of James II., and the Revolution of I6S8, was planned, and decided on. At Beverwyk, the road leaves the shore of the Wyker meer. The country beyond is almost entirely devoted to pasture, and is covered over with beautiful herds of cattle, which here compose the wealth of the district. Except a few willows, trees have almost entirely disappeared ; the country is one vast meadow. In 1799, an Englisli expedition, which landed at the Helder, pene- trated as far as the village called Cas- tricum, where they were repulsed by the French under General Brune. Further on, to the lefc, stood Egmont, from which the noble family, so dis- tinguished in the annals of Holland, derived its origin and name. It was destroyed by the Spaniards. A very small portion of the castle and abbey remains. Many counts of Holland were buried in the latter. The phi- losopher Descartes resided here for some time. 35. Alkmaar. — Inns : Tile best is that kept by Coulon, where the charges are moderate and the accom- modation good ; the two daughters of mine host are both fair and grace- ful in their national costume; — the Doelen ; — Heerenlogetnent. — The inn called the Castle (Burg) should be avoided, on account of the repre- hensible conduct of its landlady, be- fore alluded to. Alkmaar derives its name from the number of morasses and ponds, now dried up, which surrounded it in ancient times ; it has 9000 inhabit- ants, and is another example of Dutch neatness and good order, in its streets and houses, that to a traveller is very striking. The Hotel de Ville is a highly ornamented edifice, witii gothic tracery : it is said to resemble, on a small scale, that of Brussels. The Church of St. Lawrence is a handsome building of the XVlh century. Here may be seen the tomb containing the heart of Count Floris V. of Holland. Tlie town stands upon the great canal of the Tcxel ; it carries on the most considerable commerce in cheese of any place in the world. A weekly market is held here, for the sale of it, to which the farmers and country peo- ple for many miles round resort, and dispose of the produce of their dairies to merchants, who export it to the extremities of the earth. Eight million lbs. of cheese are weighed annually in tlie town scales. Alkmaar has many nice walks around it, espe- cially the Wood, similar to those of the Hague and Haarlem. Alkmaar endured, in 1573, a siege from the Spaniards, nearly equal in the severity with which it was urged on by the besiegers, and hardly inferior in the glorious example of bold resist- ance offered by the citizens, to those of Haarlem and Leyden. It was the first cntcrprize in which the Spaniards failed ; it allowed the rest of Holland to draw breath, and gain confidence. The defence was the more noble since the resolution of adhering to the side of the Prince of Orange was not adopted by the men of .Alkmaar until the enemy was at their gates. North of Alkmaar, upon the sea- shore, between Kanip and Peltena, is a place called Hondsbosschc, the most dangerous spot along the whole Dutch coast, where the sea is con- stantly gaining upon the land. As there are no dunes here, the ocean is only kept out by artificial means, by building breakwaters, and throwing up jetties at right angles with the beach, which require unremitting care and attention. It is probable that Holland. ROUTE IV. DE ZAND. THE HELDER. 59 one of the ancient mouths of the llhine entered the sea at this point, previous to the formation of the Zui- I der Zee. (§9.) I Among the villages seen on the way to Sand is Camperdown, off which was fought Admiral Duncan's action, in which he gained a complete victory over the Dutch, in 1797. The Dunes (§ 12.) near Camper- down are composed of sand, so very fine, and so extremely pure and white, that it is exported in large quantities to England, to supply some of our glass manufacturers. 34. HetZAKD. — Innkeptby Hout. The name of the place will give the best idea of its situation ; it lies in a dreary waste, all sand, in many places so loose as to be moved about by the wind. The road beyond traverses a com- plete desert, very wearisome to tlie eye, covered with scanty heaths in- termixed with pools of water. The isthmus over which the road is carried is not more than 2 miles broad, and commands a view over the German Ocean on one side, and the Zuider Zee on the other. Here may be ob- served in summer large numbers of the seafowl (Anas tadorna), which builds its nest and lays its eggs in rabbit holes. 2A. Het NiKUWE DiEP. — Inn. The inn is one of the most expensive in the country ; the old lame land- lady's charges are notorious ; everj' one is equally fleeced by her. At the same time provisions are dearer here than any where else in Holland, and she very coolly replies to those who complain of her long bills, " Do you think I would pass my days in so miserable a hole, without some con- siderable recompence ? If you do not like my charges you may go else- where ? " The cunning woman knows that hers is the only tolerable inn in the place. Though in the midst of the sea, tish are very scarce here, but Bordeaux wine is cheap and good. The Port of Xieuwe Diep, or Wil- lemsoord, the Portsmouth of Holland, about a mile from the Helder, has been entirely formed, by artificial means, within 80 years. It aflords protection by means of piers and j etties stretching out from tlie shore, to all vessels entering the great canal, even to men-of-war, and mer- chantmen of large burthen. Tliere is a steam-engine for emptying the dry dock ; and the entrance of the basin is closed by a kind of sluice gate, called Fan Sluices, from their shape : by an ingenious contrivance, the force of the rising tide is directed against them in such a manner as to shut them, and effectually to exclude itself. The great North Holland canal ter- minates in the sea at Nieuwe Diep. \. The Helder is a strongly for- tified town, with 2000 inhabitants ; opposite the island of the Texel. The view from the extremity of the fortifications, looking towards it, and over the Mars Diep, or entrance into the Zuider Zee, is fine. Down to the end of the last century, the Helder was little more than a fishing village. Napoleon converted it into a fortress of first rank, capable of containing 10,000 men in its bomb-proof case- mates, at an expense of many millions of francs. He called it his northern Gibraltar, but left the fortifications in a very unfinished state. Its batteries defend the roads of the Mars Diep, and the entrance of the harbour and grand canal. The extremity of the tongue of land which forms North Holland, being more exposed to the fury of tempests and the encroach- ments of the ocean than any other, is defended on all sides by a dyke of the very largest dimensions : within this I rampart lies the town and fortress of ' the Helder. I " The great dyke of the Helder, I which is nearly 2 leagues in length, is 40 ft. broad at the summit, over which there is a very good road. It descends into the sea by a slope of 200 ft., in- clining about 40 degrees. Tiie highest tides are far from covering the top ; D 6 60 ROUTE IV THE HELDER TO AMSTERDAM. ScCt. I. tlie lowest are equally far from show- ing the base. At certain distances enormous buttresses, broad and high in proportion to the rest, and con- structed with still greater solidity, project several hundred toisesinto the sea. This artificial and gigantic coast is entirely composed of blocks of gra- nite, all brought from Norway ; and these masses, which look as if it were impossible to move them, are levelled and squared like a pavement. The number of rocks which are seen at one view are sufficient to confound the imagination : how much more when we think on the quantities buried beneatli the waves to 'serve as the foundation of such mountains ! " — Journei/ in \. Holland. The Helder is almost the only spot on the coast of Holland where there is deep water close in-shore. The rush of the tide from the ocean into the Zuider Zee, through tlie narrow strait between Helder and the island of the Texel, constantly scours out the pas- sage and keeps it clear. Tlie British Forces sent to Holland imder the command of the Duke of York, in 1799, landed liere, and took possession of the Helder, but were compelled to re-embark a few weeks afterwards, having fruitlessly endea- voured to excite the Dutch to rise, and throw off' the yoke of Buonaparte, and having suffered a ^severe repulse at Bergen. There is a wild dreariness and dull monotony in the aspect of this district, which would render a residence in it hardly endurable, a banishment, worse than death. It is a sand-bank, whicli man appears to have usurped from the sea-gulls, who have not yet aban- doned their ancient territory, but flock to it in swarms, breaking the solitude by their incessant screaming cries. It is only when contrasting the barren- ness of nature, and the threats of the sea, with the perseverance and success- ful ingenuity of man, that an interest is thrown over the whole scene, such as no other spot in Europe can be said to possess. The island of the Texel is inhabit- ed by myriads of sea-birds, and by a primitive race of shepherds, whose ^ flocks produce fleeces of remarkable length and Bneness, which are highly I prized. They are of a breed peculiar to the island : a sort of green-colour- I ed cheese is made here of the ewes' I milk. I In returning from the Helder to j Amsterdam, tlie old road must be retraced as far as het Zand ; there a I bye-road di\ erges to the east, through i Schagen, a beautiful village, situated ' in a drained lake, called the Zype, i the oldest drained land in North Hol- I land. Flax of a very fine quality is cultivated in the neighbourhood, and I Scliagen is the market where it is sold. I The country hereabouts, and all the way to Amsterdam, is the very op- posite to that which has been left be- hind. It is clothed with tlie richest j verdure, and supports numerous herds I of cows, and large flocks of sheep, whose wool is famous, and the mutton highly prized; it abounds in old trees, and is sprinkled over with houses, af- fording, by their neatness, a sure indi- cation of the owners' prosperity. The district is intersected in all directions by canals ; and it is curious sometimes to observe the sails of the barges over- topping the roofs of the houses, and slowly moving along, to all appearance over tlie fields, as the canal itself is concealed from view. The road continues upon elevated dykes, and, after coasting along the Hugo-waard Polder, passes through the village of Ilustemburgh, by the side of another polder, the Schermer- meer. " In going along the Schermer- meer, we arrive at the point where the 3 ])olders (§ 11), the Hugoword, the Schermermeer, and the famous Beem- sfer, meet. In the centre of this kind of triangle is built the pretty Holland, route IV. — the helder to Amsterdam. 61 town of Schermer Horn, the steeples of which, shining amidst the trees, command the superb basins which surround it. The streets extend along the high land in the 3 directions which are open to them, so as to give it a most singular form. In order to reach it, we had travelled along the course of the dyke half way up. On the left, 10 or 15 ft. above our heads, was the great canal common to all these polders, and the sails (of boats?) appearing above tlic trees every in- stant hid tlie sun from us. On the right, at the same distance below us, we saw similar canals and windmills, the sails of which were hardly on a level with us, and in a hollow extend- ing further than we could see, the herds concealed in the tufted grass of the polder. It was completely the world turned upside down. In some coun- tries we are accustomed to see the sails of the windmills higher than the rud- ders of the ships, and the goats perched above the crags ; but in North Holland we must be contented to see every thing different from what it is else- where." — Journey in Xorth Holland. The Beemster is one of the largest, most fertile, and best drained lake beds or polders. It took 4 years to drain it: the undertaking was com- menced in 1608. The finest mutton in all Holland is fed upon its pas- tures. It is filled with large trees, the trunks and lower branches of which are actually painted over with various colours ; whether to improve and increase their beauty, or with some view to utility in preserving them from insects or moisture, appears uncertain. But the practici!, strange as it will appear, prevails in many other parts of North Holland. After visiting these singular and interesting polders, the traveller may either return to Alkmaav, or may make his way by canal or highway to Broek and Saardam, tlirough Medemli/t. — Inn, Valk, not good, and dear ; 2000 inhabitants ; an old decayed town, containing the royal naval academy,''through which young sailors must pass before they can enter the Dutch navy as midship- men. About 10 miles east of Medemblik, on the Zuider Zee, is Enkhuisen, another decayed town which once sent out 400 vessels to the deep sea herring- fishery every year : at present it does not employ 50 ; and its population is diminished one half. Paul Potter was born here. Hoorn — Inn . The Oude Doelen is the only tolerable one. In it are some remarkable pictures of the old schuttery (militia), in the Spanisli times, by Rottiers, a pupil of Van der Heist. In the Stadhuis is shown the sword of the Spanish Admiral De Bossu, who was taken, after a severe engagement, by the Dutch, commanded by AdmiralDerks. This is the native place of the mariner ^^'illiamSchouten, who in 161G first doubled the southern- most cape of America, which he named, after his birthplace. Cape Hoorn, or Horn. Abel Jansz Tasman, who discovered Van Dieman's Land and New Zealand, was also born here. Hoorn, like many other towns of North Holland, is sadly fallen off in trade and prosperity. From the Hel- der to Hoorn is a short day's journey. Piirmerende. — Inn, Hecrenloge- ment. Situated at the south angle of tile Beemster, on the banks of the Great Canal, and between the tliree polders or drained lakes, the Beemster, the Purmer, and the Wornier. No one should pass tiu'ough Purmereude or the Beemster without making trial of the produce of their dairies; the cream, butter, and cheese here are ex- cellent. Monnikendam. — A village of 200O inhabitants. From this place travellers may proceed to Broek, and view that curious village ; then to Buiksloot, where they may cross by the ferry to Amsterdam, or, taking the road along the dykes, lengthen their journey to Zaandam ; and, after seeing there the cabin of Peter the Great, embark in 62 ROUTE V. — UTRECHT. Sect. I. the steamer for Amsterdam, as de- scribed in Route III. A trip may be made from Monni- kendam to the island of Marken, where thema'.iners and the modeof liv- ing of the inhabitants are far more curious, because they preserve their primitive simplicity, than in the dull village of Broek. The country forming the west shore of the Zuider Zee is so populous, that the line of villages, towns, and gardens is almost uninterrupted. The neat- ness, the order, and active industry displayed at every step is highly in- teresting. In short, the excursion in North Holland is likely to afford much gratification to any traveller who will undertake it. ROUTE V. AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT AND NTMEGEN. Posts. Ellg. Miles. Nieuwersluis' - 3^ = 14j Utrecht - - 21 = 11 Amerongen- - Sj = 17 Nymegcn - - 4i = 21|- 13| = 64^ Treckschuits go between Amster- dam and Utrecht f? times a day, making the journey in 7 hours. Be- sides the ordinary barges there is one drawn by two horses, which goes the distance of 25 miles (to Utrecht) in 4 hours ; it is called de vUer/ende schuit, and is more expensive, but far better appointed, than the others. English travellers will do well to go by this flying barge. An open carriage, hold- ing 8 persons, and drawn by 2 horses, costs 35 guilders, including 5 for tolls, from Amsterdam to Amerongen. A calechc from Amsterdam to Utrecht with 2 horses costs 15 guilders, exclu- sive of about 3 for tolls and 2 the driver. The immediate neighbourhood of Amsterdam may be said to consist of an aggregation of polders. (§ II.) The most remarkable is that called the Diemer meer, one of the deepest of these drained lakes in all Hol- land : its bottom lies 1 6 ft. below the level of the sea, which is some- times augmented to 30, at ver)' high tides. There can lie no more pleasing journey, either by land or water, in any part of Holland, than the route between Nieuwersluis and Utrecht. Both sides of the road and of the river Vecht are lined with villas, summer houses, and gardens f§ 13.), belonging principally to merchants of Amster- dam. It is almost an uninterrupted garden all the way, and the taste of the Dutch for horticulture is here seen to perfection. Several very pretty villages are also passed in this part of the journey; [the most remarkable are INIaarsen, Loenen, Breukelen, and Zuilen. Sj Nieuwersluis. Passengers by the trekschuit are here invited to pur- chase a plateful of fried eels, wliicli are very well cooked at the inn, and deserve to be recommended to the notice of the gourmand. On approaching Utrecht there are various indications that the traveller is about to bid adieu to the flat land : the country presents partial undula- tions, and a slight current becomes perceptible in the canals. At the outskirts of the town the houses encroach so much upon the canal, that it is impossible for a horse to pass along the narrow paved foot- way ; " he is, therefore, unyoked from the trekschuit, and his place is generally supplied by what the traveller would deem a very unsuit- able substitute, an old woman. She, however, tows the boat along with much cheerfulness, without any great ap])arent effort, and at a tolerably brisk rate." — Boyce. 2^. Utrecht. — I/ins : 'T Kasteel van Antwerpen (Castle of Antwerp), on the Oude Gracht, is good ; better tlian that of the same name Op de Ganzenmarktj — H. des Pays Ba? excellent. I'trecht, called by the Romans Trajectus ad Rlienuni (ford on the Holland. ROUTE V. — UTRECHT. 63 Rhine), and in monkish Latin Ultra Trajectum, whence comes its modern name, is situated at the bifurcation of the brancli of the Rhine, called the Old Rhine and the Vecht. It con- tains nearly 44,000 inhabitants. There is a considerable descent from the houses to the surface of the river; a circumstance which distinguishes this from other Dutch towns already described ; the cellars under the quays by the water-side are large enough to serve as storehouses and manu- factories. The Stadhuis is a fine modern build- ing. The celebrated Treaty of Utrecht, iu 171 3, which gave peace to Europe, l)y ending the war of the Spanish succession, was signed at the resi- dence of the Bishop of O.xford, tlie British Minister, in a house now pulled down, and replaced by a barrack. Many of the preliminary conferences were held in a back room of the old Stadhuis, still remaining. The act of confederation (in 1579), which form- ed the foundation of the freedom of Holland, and which declared the Seven United Provinces independent of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall (auditorium) of the University. An inscription intended for it ran thus : Atrium sapienti .« ft „T . c ^ f See Route vl. 3:} Amersfoort. J 4^ Harderwijk. 2^ Elburg Inn, Post. Tlie road passes through Hattem on tlie left bank of the Yssel : then crosses that river to — 2\ ZwoLLE. — Inns, Keizer's Kroon ; — Hecrenloegment. The capi- tal of Overyssel is a prosperous com- mercial town of 1 4,000 inhabitants, 're- markable for its cleanliness, situated on a small stream called the Zwarte Water. The reformed Church of St. Michael contains a handsome carved pulpit. The gardens and walks about the town are very agreeable. A con- vent, which once stood on the hill of St. Agnes, was the residence, for 64 years, of Thomas ii Kempis, whose work on the " Imitation of Christ " is translated into almost every living lan- guage. He died here in 1741. The roads beyond Zwolle,and indeed through the N.W. provinces of Hol- land, are execrable, on which account Holland. noUTE VII. FREDERIKSOOUD. 67 the inhabitants of the country travel chiefly by canal and trokschiiit. Pass through Hasselt and Zwarts Sluis to — 3J Meppel. — Inn, Heerenloge- ment. About 15 miles from Meppel, and 3 from Steenwyk, are the pauper agricultural colonic sof Frederiks- ooRi), established by the Society of Ciiarity, " Maatschappij van Welda- digheid," at the Hague. There is a tolerable inn on the spot. The ground belonging to the colony lies between the 3 provinces of Over- ysscl, Friesland, and Drenthe, but is principally situated in Drenthe. The establishment is composed of 2 divisions, — a free colony of voluntary settlers, and the colony for the sup- pression of mendicity. An association of private indivi- duals, in 1813, purchased between 1200 and 1300 acres of barren land, hitherto uncultivated, and producing nothing but heath and turf. Upon this they settled a number of fa- milies, previously paupers and useless members of society ; and by availing themselves of their labour, under pro- per management and care, have gra- dually brought under cultivation vast tracts of hitherto profitless land, and have made it capal)lc of supporting human beings. To open a commu- nication with the sea, and with other parts of the country, the little river Aa has been made navigable. Houses have been built by the colonists with bricks formed from the clay dug on the spot, cemented with lime pro- duced from shells brought from the sea shore, and burnt with turf found on the land. The pauper settlers, having nothing at all of their own, required to be clothed, fed, and fur- nished with implements, &:c. from the funds of the society for the first year. This outlay was gradually repaid, and the colonists now not only support themselves, for the most part, but some of them are even enabled to lay by. A portion of land is allotted to each individual, on his arrival, for tillage, and strict care is taken that he manages it properly : the idle are compelled to work. Those ignorant of agriculture are instructed, and a great part of the colony consists of inhabitants of cities, who never handled a spade before in their lives. The women are employed in spinning and weaving ; the children are instructed in schools built on the spot, and, when old enough, have work given them suited to their strength. The education of the children is entrusted to the care of the managers. Every body is kept fully employed, and at the end of the day receives a card, stating the amount of his earnings, for which he receives an equivalent in food and clothing out of the public store of the colony. Thus every one labours for his own benefit : whatever he gains above his immediate wants, after his obligations to the society are repaid, remains his own property. The mem- bers of the colony ai'e subjected to strict rules and supervision, and a discipline approaching that of a mi- litary force. Every individual is at liberty to quit the spot after the harvest has been housed. Those who remain, and give satisfactory proofs of industry, have the land placed at their own disposal, and remain in the si- tuation of tenants to the society, when they have discharged the debts they incurred on their arrival. Several travellers, who have visited Frederiksoord, at different periods since its commencement, give the most agreeable picture of the condition of the people, of their health, and contentment. Many among them have already become persons of pro- perty, who before had not a cent in the world, and were a burden on others. Besides the general cro))s, which are described as lux- uriant, most of the colonists have formed little gardens before their houses, stocked %vith flowers and fruit trees, and cultivated at hours when their other work was done. Their houses show signs of comfort, and their food and dress give them the 68 ROUTE VII. FREDERIKSOORD. Sect. I. thriving and contented appearance of the smaller tenantry in England. The experiment has been tried now for 20 years, and may fairly be considered to have succeeded in tlie benevolent objects at which it aimed. 800 paupers, orphans and friendless, maintain themselves by their own hands. The expenses of the colony, however, are very great ; and it is never likely to answer as a commer- cial speculation, or to return any profit. The government of the Ne- therlands have taken the matter up ; have sent commissioners to examine the establishment ; and, in conse- quence of their favourable report, have sent off all able-bodied persons from the workiiouses in the great cities to these colonies. The com- munities to which these paupers be- long pay for their maintenance in the first instance. The founder and originator of this valuable institution, whicli is likely to confer benefit not only on his own country, but onall Europe, was the late General Van der Bosch. While serving in the Dutch colonies in the East, he purchased an estate in the island of Java, and devoted much of his time to improvements in agriculture. It did not long escape his observation that the estate of a native mandarin, which lay next to his own, and resembled it in soil and situation, never failed, in spite of all the pains he took with his own land, to produce far finer crops. This induced him to form an ac- quaintance with his neighbour, from whom he learnt the system, which he brouglit with such advantage to Eu. rope, and which, even in tlie East proved so beneficial on the outset, tliat the estate wliich he purchased in Java for 25,000 rix dollars fetched 150,000 when sold, on his departure from the country. The secret of the ^Mandarin's luxuriant crop appears to have been the attention he paid to obtaining and augmenting the stock of manure for his land : to this the main efforts of the colonists are directed. The plough is little used, the ground being tilled chiefly with the spade and hoe. Atatime when so many good and in- dustrious families are driven from Eng- land to seek subsistence by emigration to a foreign clime, it is surely a subject of the highest interest to the English country gentleman, and the philan- thropist in general, to know, that the waste lands and poor soil of his own country may be made capable of sup- porting not only such, but, by good management, even the idle and vagrant, the offscourings, as it were, of society. It is on this account, and with the idea that a visit to Frederiksoord will prove gratifying to many English tra- vellers, that a route, in other respects uninteresting, is here introduced. The kindness of an intelligent Eng- lish traveller enables the editor to add the following interesting particulars of tlie present state of Frederiksoord, which may be relied on as coming from good authority : — " The pauper colonies are still in full activity. Some of the free colo- nists have done very well. The re- sult of the experiment of taking poor families from the different communi- ties is still doubtful, and the whole establishment is as yet very far from paying its own expenses ; but the land is becoming valuable, and the live stock is considerably increased. It takes about 8 hours to travel by Trekschuit from Meppel to Assen. 3 Dieverbrug. 3 Assen. A small town of 1800 inhabitants. Near this occur exam- ples of those very singular sepulchres of an ancient people, commonly called Hunncbedden : they are usually large stones placed upright in the ground, covered by others laid across, and open at the end ; some are 80 ft. long. Urns, hatchets, and hammers, and other articles of wood and stone, but none of metal, have been found in tlieni. -}. Gronixgen. — Inns : Doelen ; Wapen van Amsterdam. A fortified town at the junction of the Himse and Aa : 30,000 inliabit- Holland. ROUTE VJII. BREMEN. 69 ants. It is the most important city of the northern provinces of Holland. The Universitij, founded in 1615, is frequented by about ^300 students, and has an excellent museum of na- tural history. The finest buildings are the great Church of St. Martin, a handsome Gothic structure, and the Hotel deVille, a modern building, both situated in the Bree Markt, one of the grandest squares in Holland. By means of a canal called Schui- tendicp, large vessels come up from the sea close to the town. About 32 miles W. of Groningen, and connected with it by a grand canal, extending from the river Ems to Harlingeu on the ZuiderZee, lies Leeuwarden [Inn, Nieuwe Doelen}, chief town of the province of Frieseland, with a popu- lation of more than 1 7,000 souls. In one of the churches are monuments of the Princes of Orange. The for- tifications are turned into plantations. 12 miles further to the W. is the seaport of Harlingen, on the Zuider Zee, with 7000 inhabitants. It stands on the site of a town swallowed up by the sea in 1 134, and is itself protected by one of the largest dykes in Holland, 40 ft. high, fenced in at its base with 3 rows of piles driven into the ground. The monument of the Spanish Go-- vernor Robles, who first introduced an improved method of constructing these sea walls, erected by the Dutch in gratitude for the benefit he confer- red on them, still exists near the town. «.} See Route VI. ROUTE VIII. AMSTERDAM TO BREMEK 3 Naarden. 3^ Amersfoor 2 Voothuizen. S\ Appeldoorn. A pretty village. Not far from it is the Palace of the Loo, the summer residence of the King of Holland : the gardens are extensive, but flat ; they contain a fine sheet of water. It was the favourite retreat of William III., who repaired hither to hunt. 2 Dkventek. Inns : The Moon ; the Imperial Crown. A thriving town on the right bank of the Yssel ; 9,000 inhabitants, and a considerable iron foundry and carpet manufactory. The Ca- thedral is a vast and venerable edi- fice. The English forces, under the Earl of Leicester, gained possession of Deventcr in 1586; but Col. Wm. Stanley, who was appointed governor, treacher- ously yielded it to the Duke of Parma in 1587, taking over with him his regiment of 130O men. He became a traitor from a prin- ciple of conscience, believing his duty to his country to be in- compatible with that he owed to the Romish faith. This is the native place of the philosopher Gronovius. Deventer is cele- brated all over Holland for its gingerbread ; and in orderto keej) up the reputation of the Deventer cake, an officer appointed by the magistrates inspects them before they are baked, in order to ascer- tain that the dough is properly mixed. IVIany thousand pounds of this gingerbread are annually exported. Travellers should ask for the Deventer Koek from the shop called Allemans Gading. 2 Holten. 3 Almelo. 2^ Oootmarsum. The distance to this place is 20j Dutch posts. German miles and posts begin at the frontier. 2 Nordhorn ; first town in the Hano- verian territories. 23 Lingen. 4 Herzlake. I^ Lijningen. 3^ Kloppenberg. 2 Ahlliorn. 2 Wildeshausen. 2 Delmenhorst. 2 Bremen. See Route LXIX. 20A Dutch posts ; 22 German miles. 70 ROUTE IX. — UTRECHT. Sect. I. ROUTE IX. R0TTERDA5I TO UTRECHT, BY GOUDA Posts. Eng Miles. Gouda - 2i = 11 Utrecht - 4 = 19J 6\ = SOJ The road to Gouda is conducted along the high dyke constructed, in 1272, by the side of the Yssel, to pro- tect the country from inundations. Near Gouda, at a place called Kordenoord, may be seen two of the finest specimens of windmills to be found in Holland : they are of vast size and admirable construction. 2j Gouda or Tergouw. Inns : The Doelen, very good ; Salmon (Zalm) ; a town of 13,000 inhabitants. The Cathedrul is famous for its painted glass windows, undoubtedly the finest in Europe, executed by two brothers named Wouter and Dirk Krabeth. They are of vast size, and finished with exquisite minuteness. One contains the portrait of Philip II. : half of it was shattered by light- ning. In another is seen the portrait of the Duke of Alva. They were executed in the XVih and XVIth cen- turies ; one, not by the hand of the Krabeths, which is of the XVIIth, by its inferiority proves the art to have been then on the decline. The Hotel de ViUe, was the resi- dence of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part was taken by the citizens during the civil wars of the Iloeksen and Kabiljauwsen (Hooks and cod-fish, the narnes of two factions like Whig and Tory with us). Tliere are large manufactories of bricks and tohucco-pipcs here. The clay for bricks is obtained out of the bed of the Yssel, and is particularly well adapted for the purpose ; that from which the tobacco-pipes are made is brought from a great dis- tance, from tlu! banks of the jNIoselle, and in part from the neighbourhood of Namur. The pipes are sh.aped in moulds of brass ; but the most diffi> cult operation, the boring of the pipe, is done by the hand alone, with a piece of iron wire, and requires great dexterity in the workmen. Tlie wire is not pointed, but must be quite blunt at the extremity. G.OOO men are said to be employed in pipe-making alone at Gouda. A cross-road, not very good, con- ducts from Gouda to Woerden, a fortified town of 2C00 inhabitants, on the banks of the Old Rhine. Best Inn : Veerhuis. 4 Utrecht. (See Route V.) ROUTE X. THE HAGUE TO UTRECHT. Posts. Eng. Wiles. Leyden - . 2^ = 9? Alphen - - 2 = 9^ Woerden - - 21 = 12 Utrecht - - 2" = 9i| 9 = 41^ Near Voorburg is the hou-;e of Hofwyk, built by Constantino Huy- gcns, the poet and statesman, described by him in his poems, and afterwards inhabited by Christian Huygens, the mathematician. Farther on, at the village of Leydschendam, the travel- ler may remark the difference of level of the waters of two districts, the Rhynland on one side, and the Delftland on the other, which are here separated by a lock. Leyden is described at page 32. On leaving Leyden, before reaching Kouderkerk, is llembrand's mill, where he was born ; it lies on the left hand in going to Utrecht, between the road and the Rhine. The Inn called the Star, at Alphen, is famed for its percli dressed in water- zootje in higli perfection. Beyond this the road passes the beautiful vil- lages of Zwammerdam and Bodcgra- ven,and afterwards through Woerden, all memorable as the scenes of the atrocities committed by the French army, under Marshal Luxeml)urg, in 1C72. Their cruelty, as described by Voltaire, is not exaggerated : so Holland, route XII. — the riiine in hollaxd. 71 great was the hatred wliicli it in- spired in the minds of the Dutch who were witnesses of their conduct, that descriptions of the war, called " Fransche Tyranny," were written and printed as school b«oks for their children to read, calculated to hand down an inheritance of hate for their enemies to future generations. There is a more direct road from the Hague, avoiding Leydenand Woerden by Voorburg(lJ post), Gouda (3^), Utrecht (4). ROUTE XI. UTRECHT TO ARNHF.3I. Amerongen - 31 = 17 Arnhem . . 4\ = 521^ 8 = SS'^ A pleasant road passing througli the villages of Zeist, Driebergcn, and Doom. At Renkom between Ame- rongen and Utrecht, good accommo- dation may be found at the Inn called de Bok (the goat). ROUTE XII. the rhine, a. [in its course through Holland] from rotterdam to ntmegen. Many travellers, unacquainted with the country over which they are about to pass, entertain the erroneous notion that, in making an excursion up the Riiine, they ought to embark on that river at Rotterdam, and trace it pa- tiently upwards. Our advice (and it is founded on experience), both to those in search of amusement and pressed for time, is, that they will do wisely in avoiding the voyage up the lower part of the Rhine, below Cologne, because there are two other very interesting routes from England to Cologne ; one by Rotterdam, Hague, Amsterdam, and Utrecht (Routes II. and V.), which, however, is somewhat circuitous ; tlic other by Ostend, or Antwerp, and Brussels (Routes XVII., XXI. and XXIII.), which is decidedly the shortest icaij from London. Another reason for this recommendation is, that the Rhine below Cologne is a most uninteresting river, with high dykes on each side, which protect the flat country from inundations and intercept all view, save of a few villages, church steeples, and farm houses, painted of various colours, which arc seen peering above them. The steam-vessels, too, are neither so commodious, clean, nor well-managed as those higher up in the Prussian territories, and they pro- ceed at the tedious rate of about 3 or 4 miles an hour. The sleeping berths are not sufficient to accommodate half the number of passengers usually on. board ; and ladies' cabins are not provided with beds, a very serious deficiency, considering that one night at least must be passed on board. It is said that 3 new steam-boats are in progress to run between Rotterdam and Cologne, more roomy, better fitted up, and provided with more powerful engines than those previously on this station. Still the disadvantage of flat scenery and a slow voyage is not to be got over. It would be possible to reach Co- logne direct from Rotterdam posting, or even by the diligence (provided it travel by night), in much shorter time than by the steamer. With post horses, and not including stoppages, the journey might be made in 24 or 30 hours. The most direct line of route from Rotterdam to Nymegen is by Dort, Gorcum, Thuil, and Thiel, about 88 English miles ; but it runs almost all the way upon high and narrow dykes : it is not provided with post horses ; it is interrupted by ferries, and is so badly kept at most seasons of the year, that it is far preferable to take the more circuitous route by Gouda and Utrecht (Route IX.), and proceed thence to Nymegen ( Route V. ). In point of distance this road is not shorter than the River ; but it will take less time than the voyage by steam upwards, and is far less monotonous. 72 ROUTE XII. THE RHINE IK HOLLAND. Sect. I. the right or left hand of a person turn- Besides, it is wortli while to make a sliglit detour, were it only to sec the painted glass at Gouda. Between Nymegen and Cologne the post road is very good, and owing to the winding of the Rhine, about one third shorter than the passage by the river ; so that it is decidedly prefer- able. It must be imderstood that these remarks apply to the upicard voyage from England ; in descending the river, the Rhirie is the most expe- ditious, as well as the cheapest course of travelling. Steam boats leave Rotterdam every morning in the summer, and every other morning in the latter part of the season. The hour of departure varies ■with the tide. They reach Nymegen in about 12 hours. The steamer re- sumes its voyage upwards on the following morning, and continues through the night ; but, as there are no beds on board, and the vessel is sometimes so crammed as to leave hardly room to lie down upon deck, it can easily be imagined that the voyage must be irksome for gentle- men, and hardly endurable for ladies. They who liave their own carriages on board w ill find it most convenient to sleep in them. Add to this, there is the risk of grounding on sand-banks when the water is low, and the incon- venience of delays at the Prussian cus- tom-house. The vessel does not reach Cologne till the middle of the third dd'j after leaving Rotterdam. The Fares from Rotterdam to Cologne. State cabin - i;'l 16 8 First ditto - - 1 7 6 Second ditto - - 18 4 The state cabin has no advantage over the first cabin, except that it is private; it is, therefore, often conve- nient to secure it for a party in whicli there arc several ladies. A carriage, not accompanied by pas- sengers, costs 3/. Gs. Sd. ; with three or more persons, only 1/. Gs. 8d. N. B. If the traveller's /)ass/)ori has not received a Prussian signature in England, it ought to be signed by the Prussian consul in Rotterdam. The Rhine, flowing out of Ger- many into Holland, descends in an undivided stream as far as the point of the Delta (the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). At a place called Pann- erden it splits into two branches. From this division of its stream, Vir- gil applies the epithet bicomis to the Rhine (yFn. viii. 727. ). The left-hand branch, called the Waal or Vahal, directing its course south, passes Ny- megen, joins the Meuse, and, in conjunction with it, assumes the name of Merwe. The other branch, which after the first separation retains the name of Rhine, turns northward ; i a league above Arnhem, it throws out an arm called Yssel, known to the ancients as Fossa Driisi, be- cause it was formed by Drusus in the reign of Augustus: it falls into tlie Zuyder Zee, after passing Zutplien, Deventer, and Campen. The river after this continues on past Arnhem to Wyk de Duurstede, and there again divides, throwing oft^to the left an arm called the Lek, which falls into the Maas a little above Rotterdam. The otiier arm, still retaining the original name of Rhine, after this separation, divides for the last time at Utrecht ; the oft- set is called the Vecht, and flows into the Zuyder Zee. Tlie old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once mighty river which carries its name to the sea, assumes the appearance of a canal ; and, after passing sluggishly the town of Leyden, enters the ocean througli the sluice-gates of Katwyk. The voyage from Rotterdam to Cologne may be made by two of these bi'anclies. The steamer com- monly ascends the Waal branch ,• but when the river is full, it sometimes takes its course through the Lek branch. THE WAAL. •»* The right (r) and left (/; banks of a river are those which would be on Holland. ROUTE XII. — the Rhine in Holland. 73 tlie right or left hand of a person turn- ing his back to the quarter from which the river descends. Tlie Waal is the largest and most important of the 4 branches intowhicli the Rhine divides its stream on reach- ing Holland. A few miles above Rotterdam, the moutli of theLek(r.) is passed. A short distance higher up lies — /. DOKDRECHT Or DoRT. IllllS : Bellevue; Wapen van America; and Valk. Dort, one of the oldest towns in Hol- land, has 20,000 inhabitants, and consi- derable trade. It stands on an island formed by a terrible inundation in 1421, when the tide in the estuary of the Rliine, excited by a violent tempest, burst through a dyke, overwhelming a populous and productive district, which it at once converted into a waste of wa- ters, called the Bies Bosch (i. e. rush- wood, from bies rush, whence the English besom), part of which still exists. 72 villages and 100,000 human beings were swallowed up by the waves. ]Many maps, as well as guide- books, represent this district as still under water ; but a large part of it has been recovered, and the river here spreading out bears the aspect of a lake interspersed with numerous islands, uninhabited, but producing hay in abundance. 35 of the villages were irretrievably lost, so that no vestige, even of the ruins, could afterwards be discovered. The first assembly of the States of Holland, held after their revolt from the yoke of S|)ain, met at Dort in 1572 ; and declared the Prince of Orange, Stadholder, and the only lawful Goiernor of the country. The famous assembly of Protestant Divines, known as the Synod of Dort, ^las held in th.e building called Klo- veniers Doden, 1618-19. It lasted six months, during which there were 152 sittings, unpiofitably occupied, for the most part, in discussing the unin- telligible questions of predestination and grace. At the conclusion, the president declared that " its miracu- lous labours had made hell tremble." The principal resultof its deliberations was, the decision against the doctrines of Arminius. Dort serves as a haven for tlie gi- gantic floats of wood, the produce of the remote forests of Switzerland, and the Schwarzwald, which are brought down the Rhine by crews of from 400 to 500 men each, and are here broken up and sold. A single raft sometimes produces 30,000/. A de- scription of them will be found in the route from Cologne to Mayence. The celebrated brothers De Wilt were born here; also Cuyp and Schalken, the painters, and Vossius. After a general survey of the town, which is truly Dutch in its combin- ation of sluices and canals, and a visit to the old church, the timber-ponds where the raft-wood is collected, the windmills where it is sawn into planks, and the ship-builders' yards, there is nothing to detain a traveller here. A constant communication is kept up by steam-boats with Rotterdam and Moerdyk, the first post on the road from Rotterdam to Antwerp. There are numerous and intricate sandbanks between Dort and r. GoRcuJi, or Gorinchem, a for- tress at the junction of the ISIerwe and Linge, and one of the first places taken by the Water Gueux from the Spaniards in 1572; but they sullied their victory with the murder of 1 9 Ca- tliolic priests, for which their com- mander, Lumey, was disgraced by the Slates General. The anniversary of the Holy Martyrs of Gorcum is still observed in the Catholic calendar. The canal of Zederick connects Gor- cum on the IMerwe with Vianen on the Lek. Nearly opposite Gorcum is (/.) Woudrichem, or Worcum. /. LoEVEsTEiN. 'J'he castle of Loe- vestein, situated on tl;e west point of the island of Bommel, formed by the united streams of the Meuse and the Waal, was the prison of Grotius in 1619. The history of bis escape in ROUTE XII. THE RHINE IX HOLLAND. Sect. I. a l)ox, March 22. 1621, gives an in- terest to the spot : it is thus related by his biographers : — " He beguiled the tedious hours of confinement by study; relieving his niind by varying its objects. Ancient and modern literature equally engaged his attention : Sundays he wholly de- dicated to prayer and the study of theology. He composed the greater part of the 'Jus Belli et Pacis' here. " Twenty months of imprisonment thus passed away. His wife now be- gan to devise projects for his liberty. She had observed that lie was not so strictly watched as at first ; that the guards, who examined the chest used for tiie conveyance of his books and linen, being accustomed to see nothing in it but books and linen, began to examine them loosely: at length, they permitted the chest to pass without any examination. Upon this, she formed her project for her husband's release." She accommodated the chest to her purpose by boring some holes in it, to let in air. She entrusted her maid •with tl;e secret, and the chest was con- veyed to Grotius's apartment. She then revealed her project to him, and, after much entreaty, prevailed on him to get into the chest, and leave her in the prison. The books, which Grotiusborrowed, were usually sent to Gorcum ; and the chest, which contained them, passed in a boat from the prison at Loevestein to that town. Big with the fate of Grotius, the chest, as soon as he was enclosed in it, was moved into the boat, accom- panied by the maid. One of the solcHcrs observing that it was uncom- monly heavy, the maid answered, " It is the Arminian books which are so heavy." The soldier replied, appa- rently in joke, " Perhaps it is the Ar- minian himself;" and then, without more ado, the chest « as lodged in the boat. The maid accompanied it to Gorcum, and when fairly afloat made a signal with a Iiandkerchief to her mistress that all was right. The win- dow where Grotius's wife stood is still pointed out in Loevestein. The pas- sage from Loevestein to Gorcum took a considerable time. At length it reached Gorcum, and was depo-^itcd at the house of Jacob Daatzelaar, an Arminian friend of Grotius. The maid flew instantly to him, and told him that her master was in the box ; but Daatzelaar, terrified for the con- sequences, declared he would have nothing to do with so dangerous a matter. Luckily his wife had more courage ; she sent away the servants on different errands, opened the chest, and set Grotius free. He declared, that while he was in the chest, which was not more than Sj ft. long, he had felt a little faintncss and much anx- iety, but had suffered no other in- convenience. Having dressed himself as a mason, witli a rule and trowel, he went, through the back door of Daaizelaar's house, accompanied by Daatzelaar's wife's brother, a mason by trade, along the market-place, to a boat engaged for the purpose. It conveyed them to Waalwyk, in Bra- bant, where he was safe. In the meantime every precaution had been taken by IMadame dc Grcot to conceal her husband's departure from the go- vernor and his jailors. She took par- ticular care to light the lamp in the room where Grotius was in the habit of studying ; and the governor, upon his return home in the evening, re- marking the light in Grotius's window, concluded that his prisoner was quite safe. Madame de Groot was not de- tained long in prison, and rejoined her husband soon after in Paris. There is usually a frigate in the Dutch navy bearing the name of Grotius's wife Marie van Reigersberch : history has rescued from oblivion the name of the trusty maid servant also; it was Elsje van Houwening. In the beginning of the Spanish v.ar, a butcher of Bois-le-duc, with about .-0 others, made himself master Holland. ROUTE Xll. — the lek branch of the rhike:. 75 of the castle of Loevestein. They were soon after besieged by an over- whelming force of Spaniards, who carried the fort by storm. The gal- lant butcher made a desperate resist- ance with a two-handed sword : lie retreated gradually to a chamber where he had caused a quantity of powder to be deposited, and when he found his enemies pressing hard upon him, and his strength ebbing fast, he set fire to the gunpowder and perished with friends and foes. The Spaniards picked up the mangled limbs of the hero among the ruins, and nailed them to the gallows at Bois-le-duc. /. BoMMEL. Inn, Hof van Guel- deriand. Its fortifications were de- stroyed in 1629. The island of Bommel, between the Waal and tlie flense, which here unite their waters, is defended at one end by Fort St. Andr^, and at the other by Fort Loevestein. r. niiil, a pretty town of 3.500 inhabitants, and birth-place of Ge- neral Chasse, the defender of Antwerp citadel. /. XrsiEGEK. In Route V. p. 64. In the height of summer, when travellers are numerous, much bustle and confusion attend the arrival of a Rhenish steamer at its place of destin- ation. The inns soon overflow with guests ; it often becomes necessary to go from one to another in search of a bed ; and it is sometimes difficult to procure accommodation of any kind. I It is better, therefore, for ladies to : avoid the scramble, and to send on some one to secure rooms before they ; or the baggage move out of the steamer. Those who are successful have, on the whole, little cause for congratulation ; ' as the accommodation in the inns at ; Nymegen is not good, and the charges are high. It sometimes happens that ' the steam-boat does not reach Xymc- | gen until the gates are shut ; in which case the passengers arc compelled to pass the night on board- Nymegen being a frontier town and a fortress, passports are demanded I from strangers as they quit the steamer, [ and must be vise here. The traveller 1 wlio intends to proceed, eil'ier bv land or water, early in the morning, should take special care to have his passport ! vise, and returned into his own kcep- I ing, over night. A diligence sets out every dav for ' Cologne, after the steamer from Ilot- j terdam has arrived ; so that passe:i"-ers who do not wish to stop here f >r the night, may proceed without delay, by way of Cleves and Crefeld on the left j bank of the Rhine, a journey of about 18 hours, and a distance of about 88 miles. See Route XX XV. The voyage from Xymegen to Co- logne by water, about 1 25 miles, is described in Route XXXIV. THE LEK FROM ROTTERDAM TO ARNHEIM. The steamer takes this course only once or twice a week ; and the water in the Lek is often so low as to preclude the passage of a steamer altogether. r. Lekker Kerk. r. Krimpen. r. ScHOONHOvEy, about 20 miles above Rotterdam, is famous for its salmon fisheries. One Albert Beil- ing, during the wars of the Hoekschen and Kabiljauschen (Hooks and Cod- fish), defended the castle of Schoon- hoven against the forces of Jacqueline of Bavaria. Being at length compelled to surrender, he was condemned by his enemies to be buried alive. He hoard his sentence unmoved, and asked for no mitigation of it ; but he be^oed a respite of one month, to enable him to take leave of his wife and children at Gouda. At the expiration of the time he reappeared to suffer his doom with all the fortitude of the Roman Regulus. /. Nieuwport, about a mile from Schoonhoven. r. Vreeswyk. Here carriages are in readiness to convey passengers, for 70 cents, to Utrecht, in time to meet the diligence going to Amsterdam. E 2 76 ROUTE XII. THE LEK BRANCH OF THE RHINE. ScCt. I. /. Viaiien is said to be theFanum Diance of Ptolemy. Between "\'ianen and Kuilenburg ilicre are sluices in the banks of the river, designed solely for laying the country under water in case of foreign invasion. If they were opened, the inundation would at once spread as far south as the Waal, as far as Dort to the AA'est, and to the Noort in an opposite direction. A military inundation of this kind is a mode of defence peculiar to Holland. It effectually cuts off the ineans of ap- proach from an army either by land or water ; it covers both roads and canals, leaving an enemy in ignorance of their direction and course ; and, wliile it is deep enougli to check the march of troops or cannon, it is so interrupted by shallows and dykes as to render its navigation by boats efjually impracticable. /. Kuilenburg. Inns: Rose, — "N'crgulde Hooft. A town of 3000 in- habitants, formerly a place of refuge for debtors. r. Wyk by Duurstede, supposed to be the Batavodurum of the Romans. The branch of the Rhine, which alone retains that name to the sea, here sepa- rates from tiie Lek, and flows past Utrecht and Leyden to Catwyk, where it is now discharged into the ocean by means of sluice-gates, in- stead of losing itself in the sand, as was previously the case. — Route II. r. Eck and Wiel, near ."^merongen. Amerongen itself is situated at a little distance from tlie river. r. Rheenen. r. Wageningen, 14 miles from Arnlieim Route V. p. 64. Hccteren. r. AiiNHEiM. Route VI. /. Huissen. " Near Tollhuis the army of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine, 1672, an exploit much vaunted by tlie French poets and historians of the lime, though little risk was incur- red but that of drowning, as there were very few, if any, Dutch troops immediately on the spot to oppose the passage " /. If. C. The river was not entirely fordable, and many regi- ments had to swim across. Pannerden. Here the Waal first branches out from the main trunk of the Rhine, whicli above this spot flows in one undivided stream. Tlie voyage to Cologne is described in Route XXXIV. Note. The two projects of draining the Lake of Haailem, and constructing a Railroad from Amsterdam to Arnheim, were formally brought before the Dutch States General in Alarch, 1838. 77 SECTION ir. BELGIUM. INTRODUCTOllY INFOBJIATIOX. IC. Passports. — 17. Money. — 18. Posfinc/. — 19. Other Modes of travelling : Diligences, — Hired Carriages, — Barritres, — lioads. — 20. Railroads. — :21. Inns. — 22. General Vieir of Belgium. — 23. Belgian Cities and Architec- ture,— 24. Chimes {Carillons). — 25. Works of Art : Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens, ROUTE PAGE ROUTE XIV. Calais to Brussels by Lille - - 89 XV. Calais to Ghent, by Dunkirk, Vpres, Courtrai, and Ou- XXVL denarde 95 XVI. Calais to Ostend or XXVIL Bruges 98 XVII. London to Antwerp 99 XVIII. Antwerp to Rotter- XXVIIL dam by Land 103 XIX. Antwerp to Rotter- dam by Water 104 XXIX. XX. London or Dover to Ostend 105 XXX. XXI. * Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Tcrmonde, XXXL and Mechlin 107 XXII. Ghent to Antwerp - 123 XXIII. * AnU\'cr\i\.o Brussels by Mechlin \?.9 XXXII. XXIV. Ghent to Brussels - 150 XXV. Brussels to Aix-la- Chapelle by Wa- xxxin. * An asterisk marks he lir les of the Be terloo, Namur, * Liege, and Spa * Brussels to Aix-la- Chapelle by Lou- vain, Liege, and Battice Brussels to Aix-la- Chapelle by Maes- tricht Calais to Namur by Ypres, Tournay, 3Ions, & Charleroy Namur to Luxemburg and Treves Namur ioDinantAnA Givet by the Mcuse The Ardennes, Di- nant to Hans sur Lesse, St. Hubert, and Bouillon Brussels to Paris by Cumbray Brussels to Paris by St. Quentin - 'AGE 151 1G9 172 173 174 175 177 178 181 16. PASSPORTS. The Belgian minister in London issues passports only to Belgian subjects, but will countersign other passports, except the Dutch. A passport may readily be obtained from the Belgian consul in London (between the hours of 12 and 4 on'y^, upon payment of 5 sliillings. Excepting in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports are now seldom required by the police in Belgium. The under-functionaries of E 3 s. d. 2i \ n 4 ]9 15 10 TS 16. PASSPORTS. 17. MONEY. 18. POSTING. ScCt. II. the Belgian police offices often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dilatoriness, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and which contrast singularly with the invariable politeness and punctuality of similar ofticers in Prussia and Austria. The mode of passing from Belgium into Holland, and vice versa, until the disputes between the two countries are adjusted, is explained at the be- ginning of Route XVIII. 17. MONET. The Dutch coinage, introduced during the reign of the King of Holland, has been getting into disuse since the separation of the two kingdoms ; and, though much of it remains in circulation, the coins which Leopold has struck are similar to the French in name and value. Accounts are in some places still kept in guilders and stivers ; but French money is so generally current, that a traveller who confines himself to Belgium need provide himself witli no other. Dutch Money. See § 1., under the head of Holland. BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = g^r/. English. Silver coins : — \ franc = 25 centimes - = 2i | English. ^ ditto = 50 ditto - - = 5 ditto - - - = Gold coins : — Louis d'or = 24 fr. - - = Napoleon, or 20-franc piece = FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCi". fr. c. English Sovereign - - = Crown - = Shilling - - = Dutch 'William = 10 Guilders - = Guild-M- - - = Prussian dollar - - = Frederick d'or - - = Bavarian Florin = 20 pence English = Crown Thaler - - = Austrian Florin = 2 shillings English = 18. POSTING. BARRIERS AND ROADS. Two Belgian or French leagues make a post (equal to nearly 5 miles En- glish, or about 1 German mile). The precise length of the lieue de poste is 3,898 metres = 4,263 yards English = 2.412 English miles. Postin<' in Belgium is arranged nearly upon the same footing as in France. The following tariff is extracted from the last " Livre de Poste," published at Brussels : — The charge for each horse per post is 1 fr. 50 centimes, or 30 sous. The charge — postillion — 75 centimes, or 15 sous. It is usual to give at least 1 J franc per post to the postilion j indeed, it is customary with English travellers to allow him 2 francs, or 40 sous, per post. He may, however, be restricted to the sum fixed by the tariff, when he has conducted himself improperly. To make a constant practice of giving the French and Belgian post- boys 40 sous apiece appears a gratuitous piece of extravagance. Our 25 50 6 25 1 25 21 SO 2 15 9 75 21 2 15 5 81 2 57 Belorium. 18. POSTING, TAniFF OF. 79 countrymen who do this can hardly be aware that they are paying at the rate of 4 o 4 > E t o ■T. o > 72 6C2 f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. I ■i 2 10 3 5 4 4 15 5 10 5 15 6 10 7 5 8 1 5 6 lOJ 8 9 10 10 11 10 13 14 10 16 H 6 5 8 2| 10 11 17 12 10 14 7 16 5 18 2 20 11 7 10 9 15 12 14 4 16 17 5 19 10 21 15 24 i| 8 15 11 7 14 16 11 17 10 20 2 22 15 25 7 28 2 10 13 16 19 20 23 26 29 32 H 11 5 14 12 18 21 7 22 10 25 17 29 5 32 12 36 y* 12 10 16 5 20 23 14 25 28 15 32 10 35 5 40 2| 13 15 17 17 22 26 27 10 31 12 35 15 39 17 44 3 15 19 10 24 28 10 30 34 10(39 43 10 48 H 16 5 21 2 26 30 n 32 10 37 7|42 5 47 2 52 H 17 10 22 15 28 33 4 35 10 40 5j 45 10 50 15 56 H 18 15 24 7 30 o 35 12 37 10 43 2 43 15 54 7 60 4 20 26 32 38 40 46 o' 52 58 64 The above table supposes that the full quota of horses are attached to the carriage : the following table is drawn up for cases in which some of the horses are dispensed with, and 20 sous paid instead. E 4 80 19. MODES OF TRAVELLING. Sect. II. Post Boys at 40 Sous a Post. i Post. J Post, f Post. 1 Post. 2 Posts. 3 Posts. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. 2 persons and 2 horses at 5 1 francs per post - 1 5 2 10 3 15 5 10 15 3 persons and 2 horses at 6 francs per post - 1 10 3 4 10 6 12 18 4 persons and 2 horses at 7 francs per post - 1 15 3 10 5 5 7 14 21 5 persons and 3 horses at 1 8^ francs per post 2 2i 4 5\6 n 8 10 17 25 10 Two P ostilions at 40 Sons each. 6 persons and 4 horses at 1 12 francs per post 3 6 9 12 24 36 In fixing the number of horses to be attached, the postmaster also takes into account the nature, size, and weight of the carriage, and the quantity of lug- gage ; a landau or berlin always requires 3 horses at least, generally 4 ; a chariot will require 3) while a britzka holding the same niunber of persons will need only 2. RoijaJ Posts. — Half a post extra is charged upon post-horses arriving at or quitting Brussels, and ^ of a post extra on quitting Ghent, Liege, Mons, and Namur. No duty is paid on travelling carriages in Belgium. 19. OTHER MODES OF TRAVELI.IKG : — HILIGENCES,- B.'^RUIERS ROADS. -HIRED CARRIAGES.— Diligences are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4.) : they belong to private individuals or companies. They are frequently ill managed, and uncomfortable. Hired Carriages. — Persons not travelling in their own carriages, and un- willing to resort to the diligence, may have a voiture with two horses at the rate of about 25 francs a day, and 5 francs to the driver; but they must, at the same time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, making 50 francs per diem for carriage and horses. In 1836, at Antwerp, 2 carriages, for a party of 9 persons, were cliargod to Cologne, a journey of 4 days, 400 francs, with an additional fee to the driver of 40 francs : 45 francs additional were to be paid for every day the party stopped at a place. At Brussels, for the same journey, the terms were from 460 to 500 francs. Barrieres. — There is usually a toll-gate every league in Belgium. The tolls are fixed at 10 centimes for a 4-vvheeled carriage, and 20 centimes for each horse, including the return ; thus the charge for tolls amounts to 1 franc 20 centimes per post for a carriage with 2 horses. The barrier is marked by a lamp post at tlic road side. It is customary to pay the tolls to the i»ost-boy instead of sl()))ping at each, by which much time is saved. liouds. — Most of the Belgian roads are paved, which nnders travelling over them very fatiguing, esi)ccially for ladies. The ellcct produced by them on Belgium. 20. railroads. 21. Belgian inns. 81 carriage wheels is most destructive : a single clay's journey over these chaussees will sometinnes cause them to split and start, unless they are made very stout. The postilion should be desired to drive on the unpaved ground at the side as much as possible, {alkz sur la terre.) 20. RAILROADS. Belgium, from the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost liere than in England, and are in consequence extending their ramifications tiirough all parts of the kingdom. The following lines are already completed : — 1. From Antwerp to ^Icchlin and Brussels. 2. From Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Termonde, and Mechlin. 3. From Mechlin to Louvain and Li^ge. The following are about to be begun : — 4. From Liege to Aix-la-Chapclle and Cologne on the Rhine, by Verviers. 5. Brussels to Lille, and thence to Paris, Mechlin is the point of concentration at which all these lines meet. They are made at the expense of the Government ; the rate of travelling is the same as in England ; the expense is much less, on some lines less than a half- penny a mile, Tlie speed of travelling, contrasted with that of the diligence, is trebled, and the cost reduced one third. Hitherto the conveyance by the railroad has been limited to passengers, so that persons travelling in their own carriages must send them on by the post road, if they choose to avail themselves of the railroad. There are 4 classes of carriages : 1. Berlines (the best and dearest). 2. Diligences. 3. Chars a banc. 4. Waggons I'open). The railroad is carried ;)«»■< the different towns, notthroufjh them; thus much time is lost in going to and from the station. The omnibuses which traverse the streets of Brussels and Antwerp, to collect passengers, tarry so long in the streets, and arrive often so much before the time of starting, that they increase rather than remove the evil. 21. BELGIAN IXXS. The average charges are, for a bed, 1 franc to 1 franc 50 cent. Dinner, table d'hote, 3 francs. Supper, table d'hote, 1 franc 50 cent, to 2 francs. A bottle of Bordeaux (ordinaire) wine, 3 francs. Breakfast, with eggs and meat, I franc 50 cent, ; coffee and bread and butter, 1 franc : servants, 50 centimes each. In the principal inns of the large cities the charges are higher : at Brussels they are very dear. 22. GEXERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. In many respects the preliminary description of Holland (i 8.) will apply to Belgium ; the long connection between the two people having produced similarity in the habits of both, though, it must be confessed, there are great distinctions in character. The northern and eastern provinces of Belgium, in their flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 10.) and dykes (§ 9.), can be physically regarded only as a continuation of Holland. This portion of Belgium teems with population, so that, in traversing it, ti has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The southern pro- e5 82 22. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. 23. CITIES. Scct. II. vinces, on tlic contrary, have an opposite cliaracter ; they consist, in a great degree, of a rugged district of mountains covered with dense forests, wliich still harbour the wolf and tl;e bear, intersected by rapid streams, and abound- ing in really picturesque scenery, the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. It is but a thiidy peopled district; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, are a rough and hardy race. The northern provinces are further distinguished from the southern by their language. A line, drawn nearly due oast from tlie river Lys, at IMenin, passing a little to the south of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maestricht and Li(?ge, marks the boundary of the Flemish and Walloon languages. The people living on the north of tiiis line speak Flemish; those on tlie south, Walloon, which is a dialect allied to the old French of the Xlllth century. The late kingdom of the Netherlands was built up of the fragments of other states, and " kept together rather by the pressureof surrounding Eiirope, than by any internal principles of cohesion." The Belgians difler from the Dutch in two essential points, which are quite sufficient to make them a distinct nation, incapable of any permanent union : tliey are French in in- clination, and Roman Catholics in religion. Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which have distinguished the Dutch annals ; there is nothing marked in their characters ; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calculation of gain which belong to their phlegmatic neiglibours, they are equally devoid of the highminded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of foreign masters, Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the Cru- sades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite purpose. Lands, political powers and piivileges, were parted with, on the spur of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by their riches, to purchase their independence. Tiiey forthwith formed them- selves into communes, or corporations, and began to exercise the right of deliberating on their own affairs ; elected baijifls (echevins) ; obtained a jurisdiction of their own, and with it a great seal ; and evinced their sense of these advantages by building a liuge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as a tropliy or temple of their liberties. But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords mudi sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty jealousies and quarrels among one another. To use the words of the most distinguished living British historian, " Liberty never wore a more unamiai)le countenance than among these burgliers, who abused the strength slie gave them by cruelly and inso- lence."- — Hallam. They have suffered from their faidts ; tlieir government has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has l)een the scene of war for centuries : a mere arena for combat, the Cockpit of Europe. The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement of the Ui.tional character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarseness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. 23. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTUKK. " It appeared to me that, instead of treating Flanders merely as a high road tlie Rhine, all who have time, and feel a pleasure in examining objects, the Belgii 23. CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTURE. 83 ideas of which have buen long familiar to them, should pause long, and study carefully, every city on the route. " Not many among us are, I believe, fully aware how peculiarly rich this country is in objects of every kind that can most interest and delight a traveller ; provided, indeed, that he be not journeying post to the Rhine, but have time and inclination to pause and look about him. People who love pictures know that Flanders possesses many chcf-d'auvres of the arts; and peoijle who love churches are aware that the Low Countries are famed for Gothic architecture; nevertheless, but few of our yearly tourists pause long enough to enjoy fully the exceeding richness of Belgium in all that can gratify the eye of taste, or 'awaken the enthusiasm of the antiquary.' Where can be found such a con- stellation of fine old cities as Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, Louvain, Brussels, Na- mur, and Lioge? — each assisting to illustrate the history of the others, and all within so small a space, that they may be visited in succession, and revisited again, half a dozen times in the course of as many weeks ; and that, perhaps, at a less expense than the same time would cost if spent at a fashionable water- ing-place in England." — Mrs. Trollope. " It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school, — those fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly ornamented ; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, amuses at once and delights the spectator. In fact, this rich intermixture of towor?, and l)attlements, and projecting windows, highly sculptured, joined to the height of the houses, and the variety of orna- ment upon their fronts, produces an effect as superior to those of the tame uni- formity of a modern street, as the casque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a Quaker." — S!r Walter Scott. In England, Gothic architecture is almost entirely confined to churches'; in the Netherlands it is s!iown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling-houses. The Town Halls (Halles, or Hotels de Ville,) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention : tliey are most perfect examples of the Gothic style ; and it may truly be asserted that no where else in the whole of Europe are any civic edifices found to ajjproach in grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. The opulent burghers of these cities, at that time the most flourishing in Europe from their commerce and manufactures, were little inferior to princes in power and riches ; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence : they are, in fact, civic palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, fbr the meeting of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the municipal government ; and sometimes as courts of justice. Notwithstanding the display of splendour in individual buildings, it is diffi- cult to traverse, in the present day, tlic deserted and inanimate streets of the great Belgian cities without a feeling of melancholy at the aspect of decay which they exhibit. They have lost their pre-eminence in commerce and manu- factures ; their popuhition has shrunk, in many instances, to one half of its original amount ; the active arm of industry is paralysed ; and the looms, which once supplied not only Europe, but Asia, with the most costly stuffs, are now supplanted by the colonies which Flanders itself sent forth into England and Italv. E 6 8i 2i. CHIMES. 25. WORKS OF ART SCHOOLS. SeCt. II. The characteristics of tlie cities of Belgium]are given in the following verses in monkish Latin : — " Nobilibus* Bruxella viris, Antverpia-f niimniis, Gandavum^ lacjueis, formosis Burga§ puellis, Lovanium II doctis, gaudet IMecklinia^ stultis." 24. CHIMES (carillons). Cliimes, or carillons, were invented in the Low Countries ; they have cer- tainly been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. Tliey are of two kinds ; the one attached to a cylinder like the barrel of an organ, wliich always repeats the same tunes, and is moved by machinery ; the otiier of a superior kind, played by a musician with a set of keys. In all the great towns there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who performs with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, tliat in some places the chimes appear scarcely to be at rest for ten minutes, either by day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. 25. WORKS OF ART IK THE LOW COUNTRIES THE SCHOOLS OF VAN EYCK AND RUBENS. It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an eminent degree of perfection. This country has had the rare honour, at two distinct periods, of producing two different schools of painting; the founders of which, in both instances, astonished, and even equalled, tiieir contemporaries throughout the whole of Europe in tlie excellence of tiieir works. The founders of the two schools of painting were Van Eyck and Rubens. The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, still existing in Belgium, and no wliere else to be found in equal perfection, fonn another great attraction of a journey through this country, and will be highly appreciated by every traveller of taste. The brothers Hubert and John Van Evck, the founders of the early school, are believed to have flourished between 1370 and 1445. The painters were enrolled into a guild at Bruges as early as 1358, which enjoyed the same pri\ilegcs as any other corporation, and attained the highest reputation under I'hilip the Good, whose court at Bruges was resorted to by men of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose society he took great delight. It was in consequence of his patronage that the brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck (the latter sometimes called * Brussels was the seat of the Court, and, therefore, the residence of the nobility. f Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. \ The magistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. § Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty girls. II The University of Louvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. «1 The joke about the wise men of Mechlin is explained in the description of that town. Belgium. schools of van eyck and ruben's. 85 John of Bruges) settled here, and have left behind them so many proofs of their skill as painters, some of which still remain at Bruges. In tlie days of the Van Eycks the corporation consisted of more than 300 painters, who were enrolled on the books, and formed the most celebrated school of ait of the time. Van Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed the father of the art, as he intro- duced some improvement either in the material or the mode of mixing and ap- plying the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, Giotto having mixed oil with his colours nearly 200 years before the time of Van Eyck, we find that an Italian artist, Antonello of Messina, made a journey to Flanders on purpose to learn his new method ; and it is also recorded that Andrea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending further. The depth and brightness of Van Eyck's colours, which, if they can be equalled, are certainly not to be surpassed in the present day, and their perfect preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with what rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important department of painting. The works of the brothers Van Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for this reason perhaj)s, appreciated as they deserve in England : with them must be asso- ciated Hass Hemling, another artist of the same school, whose 7iome even is hardly known except to a very few among us. His masterpieces exist at Bruges in the Hospital of St. John, and in the Academy : no traveller should omit to see them. If he have any love for art, or any pretension to taste, he will not fail to admire the exquisite delicacy and feeling which they display, their brilliancy of colouring, and purity of tone. In contemplating the works of the early Flemish school, it must be borne in mind, that they who attained to such excellence at so early a period, had none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate and study from : tjje path they struck out was entirely original ; they had no models but nature, and such nature as was before them. Hence it happens that their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a meagreness of outline, which are unpleasing to the eye, combined with a want of refine- ment which is often repugnant to good taste. Still these defects are more than counterbalanced by truth and delicate feeling, and not imfrequently by an elevation of sentiment in the representation of sacred subjects. Tlie pro- gress of the Flemish School may be traced, in an uninterrupted course, through the works of Quintin Matsys, Floris, de Vos, the Breughels, and a number of artists little known in England, down to Otto Vennius, and Rubens. SCHOOL OF RUBENS. The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish art were Rubess and his distinguished pupil Vandyke. And here we shall again avail ourselves of the excellent observations of Sir Joshua Reynolds, being fully convinced of how great value they will prove to the young traveller. They will induce him not to rest satisfied with the name of a painter and the subject of a picture ; they will point out to him the beauties, the reason ichi/ such works are esteemed, and induce him to examine for himself, thus enabling him to form his taste, 86 CHARACTER OF RUBEN'S. ScCt. II. and to carry with liim a perception of excellence by which he may exercise a critical judgment of painting in general. CHARACTER OF RUBENS. " The works of men of genius alone, where great faults are united with great beauties, afford proper matter for criticism. Genius is always eccentric, bold, and daring j which, at the same time that it commands attention, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the regular, cold, and timid composer who escapes unseen, and deserves no praise. " The elevated situation on which Rubens stands in the esteem of the world is alone a sufficient reason for some examination of his pretensions. His fame is extended over a great part of the Continent without a rival ; and it may be justly said that he has enriched his country, not in a figurative sense alone, by the great examples of art which he left, but by what some would think a more solid advantage, — the wealth arising from the concourse of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. To extend his glory still further, he gives to Paris one of its most striking features, the Luxemburg Gallery ; and if to these we add the many towns, churches, and private cabinets where a single picture of Rubens confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him iu the first rank of illustrious painters. Though I still entertain the same general opinion both with regard to his excellences and defects ; yet having now seen his greatest compositions, where he has more ^means of displaying those parts of his art in which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase in propor- tion to the size of the canvass on which they are to be displayed. His supe- riority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works; which are seldom eminently beautiful. It does not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect, — in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. " The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius, — to attract attention, and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating pow-er that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have, perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and insipid ; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer, Schut, Segers, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose hands, and, indeed, all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that every thing they did was the effect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on the contrary, seem to fiow with a freedom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing ; and to the general animation of the composition tliere is always a correspondent spirit in the ex- ecution of the work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which every object is touched, — all contrilmte to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some measure, correspondent sensations, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was carried away. To this we may add the complete uni- formity in all the parts of the work, so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind : every thing is of a piece, and fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of form appears to correspond better w ith iu's colouring and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply considered, might have been better. It is here, as in Belgium. character of rubens. 87 persoiuil attractions, there is frequently found a certain agreement and cor- respondence in tlie whole together, which is often more captivating than mere regular beauty. ♦' Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is noces. sary for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of authority ; to consider the rules as subject to iiis control, and not himself subject to the rules ; to risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensations, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Rubens had made up his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his works that appears to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed any thing, lie has had the address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable. " Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye; he saw at once the predominant feature by which every object is known and distinguished ; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is abtonibhing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely examines a picture, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt by those who are not painters, I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that objects be truly represented ; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means, here, that the work is done with facility aiid without efibrt. Rubens was, perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil." " Tliis power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to represent whatever he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, are so admirable, that it may be said they were never properly represented but by him. His portraits rank with the best works of tlie painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business of their lives ; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be said of his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, as becomes a professor in any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Rubens, that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist whatever. " The pictures of Rubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels himself in nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The cri- ticisms which are inade on him are, indeed, often unreasonable. His style ought no more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of Michael Angelo, than Ovid should be censured because he is not like Virgil. " However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which would have perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters: sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they are healthy and comely women, but seldom, if ever, possess any degree of elegance : the same may be said of his young men and children. His old men have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never possessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian or 'the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which 88 CHARACTER OF RUBENS. Sect. II. is conceived of such beings, the spectator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with every day. " The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds from liaste and carelessness than from inability : there are in Iiis great works, to which he seems to have paid more particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He api)ears to have enter- tained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of liis predecessors, the old German and Flemish painters ; to avoid which, he kept iiis outline large and flowing : this, carried to an extreme, produced tliat lioaviness which is so frequently found in his figures. Another defect of tiiis great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that of his women : it is scarcely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens are, in this respect, in opposite extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, and the other too little. Rubens's drapery, besides, is not properly historical ; the quality of the stuff of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Rubens than it would be in many other painters, as it partly contributes to that richness which is the peculiar cha- racter of his style, which we do not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. " The difference of the manner of Rubens from that of any other painter befo)-e him, is in nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different from that of Titian, Correggio, or any of the great colourists. The effect of his pictures may be not improperly compared to clusters of flowers : all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time, he has avoided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this respect resembling Barocci more than any other painter. What was said of an ancient painter, may be applied to those two artists, — that their figures look as if they fed upon roses. " It would l)e a curious and a profitable study for a painter to examine the difference, and the cause of that difference, of efl'ect in the works of Correggio and Rubens, botli excellent in diflTerent ways. The preference, probably, would be given according to the different habits of the connoisseur : those who had received their first impressions from the works of Rubens would censure Correggio as lieavy ; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted solidity of effect. There is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advocates will urge, and comparatively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers will coa^plain of Rubens's manner being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of delicacy ; and what may be advanced in favour of Correggio's breadth of ligiit, will, by his censurcrs, be called aflTected and pedantic. It must be observed, that we are speaking solely of the manner, the effect of the picture; and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority to either. " To conclude, — I will venture to repeat in favour of Rubens, what I have before said in regard to the Dutch school, (§ 14.) — that those who cannot see the extraordinary merit of this great painter, either have a narrow conception of the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation of approving nothing but what comes from the Italian school." — Sir Joshua lieynolds. Beh ROUTE XIV. — CALAIS TO BRUSSELS. 89 ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. ROUTE XIV. CALAIS TO BRUSSELS BY LILLE. Many persons, especially in the winter season, prefer the shortest sea- voyage between England and the con- tinent, on which account tlie following route is given here at full length, though a great part of it lies through France : — Posts. Eng. Miles. Ardres - - 2 = 9:t La Recousse - 1 = 5 St. Omer - - 2 = 9| Cassel - - 24 =: 12 Bailleul - - 2i = 12 Armentieres - li = 7i Lille o = 9| Pont a Tressin - li = Tournay - - H = sf Leuze 2 = H Ath - li = H Enghien - = 11 Hal - - 1| = «i Brussels - - 2 = H 26i 127-! (272 posts are charged.) Two diligences go every day to and fro in about 24 liours; but they stop some time at Lille. Calais. — Inns: Hotel Rignolle,H. Dessin good. The bed-room in which theauthor of the Sentimental Journey slept, is still marked Sterne's Room ; and that occupied by Sir Waiter Scott is also tieketted with his respected name. — Qui lliac's Hotel. — Robert's Hotel, kept by an Englishman, is also good. It is necessary to determine before- hand at what hotel the traveller will stop, as the only means of extricating himself from the annoyance of the various agents who crowd the landing place. — See Introduction. Duty on Carriages. — Carriages landed in France and taken out of the country within 6 days are exempted from the duty of a third of their value, formerly levied on all carriages with- out exception. This remission of duty, however, can only be obtained on condition that some respectable Frencli householder will guarantee that the carriage shall quit France within the 6 days specified. The land- lord of the inn at which the traveller puts up in Calais will eifect this ar- rangement for him : but as he subjects himself to a penalty of a very large amount in case the above condition is not complied with, he requires the tra- veller to sign an undertaking to in- demnify and hold him harmless in case of failure. An order to procure this remission of duty, issued by the French custom-house, and called "acquit a caution," coi,ts 5 fr., and must be delivered up on passing the French frontier. 10 francs is the common charge for landing or ship- ping a 4-wheeled carriage. Calais has 10,000 inhabitants ; it is a fortress of the 2iid class, situated in a most barren and unpicturesque dis- trict, with sandhills raised by the wind and the sea on the one side, and morasses on the other, contributing consitlerably to its military strength, but by no means to the beauty of its position. An English traveller of the time of James I., described it as "a beggarly, extorting town; mon- strous dear and sluttish." In the opinion of some, this description will hold good down to the present time. Except to an Englishman setting his foot for the first time on the Con- tinent, to whom everi/ thing is novel, Calais has little that is remarkable to slio%v. After an hour or two it becomes tiresome, and a traveller will do well to quit it as soon as he 90 ROUTE XIV. — CALAIS. Sect. II. has cleared liis baggage from the custom-house, and procured the sig- nature of the police to his passport, wliich, if he be pressed for time, will be done almost at any hour of the day or night, so as not to delay his de- parture. It is necessary to be aware of this, as the commissionaires of tiie hotels will sometimes endeavour to detain a stranger, under pretence of not being able to get his passport signed. It may be well to remark, that tra- vellers landing at a French port, and not intending to go to Paris, but merely passing tlirough the country, as on the route to Ostend or Brussels, are not compelled to exchange their passport for a passe provisoire, but merely require the vise of the au- thorities at Calais to allow them to proceed on their journey. Persons unprovided with a passport, may pro- cure one from the British Consul for 4s. 6d. The Pier of Calais is an agreeable promenade, nearly J mile long. It is decorated with a pillar, raised to com- memorate the return of Louis XVIII. to France, which originally bore this inscription : — ♦' Le 24 Avril, 1814, S. M. Louis XVIII. debarqua vis-a-vis de cette colonne, et fut enfin rendu a 1 'amour des Fran^-ais; pour en perpf^'tuer le souvenir, la ville de Calais a 61eve ce monument." " As an additional means of per- petuating this remembrance, a brazen plate had been let into the pavement, upon the precise spot where his foot first touched the soil. It was the left ; and an English traveller noticed it in his journal as a sinistrons omen, that when Louis le Desire, after his exile, stepped on France, he did not put tiie right foot foremost." — Quarterli/ Re- view. At the Revolution of .Tidy, both inscription and footmark were at once obliterated by the mob ; and the pillar now stands a monument merely of tiie mutability of French opinions and dynasties. The principal gate leading from the sea-side into the town is that figured by Hogarth in his well-known picture. No one needs to be reminded of the interesting incidents of the siege of Calais by Edward III., which lasted 1 1 months, and of tlie heroic devotion of Eustace de St. Pierre and his 5 companions. Few, however, are aware tliat tlie heroes of Calais not only went unrewarded by their own king and countrymen, but were compelled to beg their bread in misery through France. Calais remained in the hands of the English more tiian 200 years, from 1.347 to 1558, when it was taken by the Duke de Guise. It was the last relic of the Gallic dominions of the Plantagenets, which, at one time, comprehended the half of France. Calais was dear to the English as the prize of the valour of their forefathers, rather than from any real value it possessed. The English traveller should look at the Hotel de Guise, originally the guildhall of the mayor and aldermen of the staple, which has many vestiges of English Tudor architecture. Hen- ry VIII. used to lodge in it. In the great Market Place stands the H6td de Ville {Town Hall). In it are situated the police offices. In front of it are placed busts of St. Pierre, of the Due de Guise, surnamcd Balafr^, who conquered the town from tiie English, and of the Cardinal de Ri- chelieu, who built the Citadel on tbew. of the town; above it rises a Belfry, containing the chimes. In tlie same square is a tower, which serves as a land-mark by day and a light-house by night, to point out to sailors the entrance of the liarbour. The principal church was built at the time when the English were mas- ters of Calais. Lady Hamilton (Nelson's Emma) is buried in the public cemetery out- side tiie town, on the road to Bou- logne ; she died here in great misery. The ivalls round the town, and the Belsiion. ROUTE XIV. ST. OMER. 91 pier jutting out nearly | mile from the shore, are admirable promenades, and command a distinct view of the white cliffs of England, — a tantalising sight to the English exiles, fugitives from creditors, or compelled from other causes to leave their homes ; a nu- merous class both here and at Bou- logne. There are many of our countrj-- men besides, who reside merely for the purpose of economising; so that the place is half Anglicised, and our lan- guage is generally spoken. Tliere is a small theatre here. Calais is one of those places where the fraternity of couriers have a sta- tion. Travellers should be cautioned not to engage one imless the land- lord of an hotel, or some other re- spectable and responsible person give him a character derived irom personal knowledge ; .is many of these couriers remain at Calais only because some previous act of misconduct prevents them showing their faces on the op- posite side cf the Ciiannel. The inn yards are generally well stocked with carriages to be let or sold : they are mostly old and rickety vehicles; and the hire demanded for them nearly equals that for which an excellent carriage may be obtained in London. A steam-boat goes every day to Dover, varying its departure to suit the time of high water. The average passage is about 2^ liours. Steamers go direct to London, twice a week, in 1 Oi or 1 2 hours. \ a post additional is paid on quit- ting Calais. The best halting places between Calais and Brussels are Lille and Tournay, the inns being good at both. The road is at first very monoton- ous, flanked by ditches and pollard willows. It passes the bridge called Pont Sanspareil, carried over two canals, before it reaches 2 Ardres, a small town on the canal named after it. Between Ardres and Guisncs took place, in 1520, the meeting between Henry VIII. and Francis I. ; on which occasion so much costly mag- nificence was displayed on both sides, that the spot was called The Field of of the Cloth of Gold. 2^La Recousse. 2 St. Ojier. — Itins : L'Ancienne Poste is the best ; Grande Ste. Cathe- rine, tolerable. A fortified town in a marshy situa- tion, with 21,000 inhabitants. The Cathedral is a fine Gothic building, containing many interesting relics from the once celebrated city of Terouannc, but heavy and stunted in its proportions, and very inferior to The. Church of St. Bertiti, destroyed in the revolution : it exists now only as a most beautiful and interesting ruin ; but it is to be feared that it may not long remain even in this state. It was once considered the finest eccle- siastical edifice in French Flanders ; equally distinguished for size, purity, and unifonnity of style, It aflTord- ed an asylum to Thomas a Becket while banished from England. The choir was finished in 1353, the tran- septs in 1447; the nave and tower, begun in 1431, were not completed till 1520, 2 centuries after the com- mencement of the edifice. At the Revolution the abbey was suppressed, and its property confiscated. The church, which had been spared by the Convention, was sold under the Di- rectory, and demolished, in 1799, for the sake of the metal and wood, which were disposed of in lots. Since that time the ruins have suffered much from exposure to the weather, but nothing in comparison with the wanton injury inflicted by human violence. A seminary for the education of English and Irish Catholics exists here : it has succeeded the celebrated Jesuits' College founded by Father Parsons for the education of young Englishmen. Daniel O'Connell was brought up here for the priesthood ; and several of the conspirators en- gaged in the Gunpowder Plot were pupils of the same school. 92 ROUTE XIV. LILLE. Sect. II. The stage from St. Omer to Cassel may be travelled in about two hours. Tlie latter part is a very steep ascent up a high hill, on whose summit lies the village of 2^ Cassel, where there are two very good Inns, H. d' Anglcterre, and II. du Sauvage, at which it is worth wliile in fine weather to stop for a short time to enjoy the view. Here at length the country becomes more interesting. Cassel is most agreeably situated on a hill com- manding a view much celebrated in France, but, which, after all, will bear no comparison with that from the Malvern Hills in England. It ex- tends over the flat and fertile plains of Flanders, and as fai- as the white cliffs of England, into 3 different kingdoms ; includes 32 towns and 100 villages. Mont Cassel was one of the principal signal stations of the great trigonometrical survey carried on dur- ing the reign of Napoleon. The gardens and grounds of the late General Vandamme, who was born here, are commonly shown to stran- gers, and are very tastefully laid out. 2^ Bailleul. Inn, Faucon. \A Armentieres, a town of 7700 inhabitants, mostly weavers. — The road here almost touches upon the Belgic frontier. 2 Lii.LE (Flem. Ryssel) — Inns : H. de I'Europe, excellent ; — Lion d'Or ; — de Bourbon ; — de Villeroy. A city of importance, with 70,000 inhabitants ; handsomely built, and surrounded by fortifications which render it one of tiie strongest places in France, Its cifrtdel is considered a masterpiece of the skill of Vaul)an, who was governor of it for many years. At different periods, and un- der different masters, Lille has stood seven distirict sieges ; the most me- morable, perhaps, was that by the allied armies of Marlborough and Eugene in 1708, of 3 months' du- ration, during which the war was not merely waged above ground, but the most bloody combats were fought be- low the surface between tlie miners of the opposite armies, each endeavouring to sap and undermine the galleries of his opponent. Boufflers, the French commander, after a masterly defence, was com- pelled to capitulate, but upon the most honourable terms. The Rue Royale is a fine street, nearly a mile long. The ancient Gothic Hotel de Ville, built by Pliilip the Good, 1430, and the Cathedral of St. Maurice, in which the Duke de Berri was buried, are the most interesting public buildings. The Public Library of 20,000 vols. is a remarkably fine collection, and contains, besides, a number of very curious MSS. charters, &c. The Museum of Pictures is credit- able to a provincial town, but con- tains scarcely any thing of value. De la Roche's celebrated picture of Cromwell contemplating the Body of Charles I., is an exception. In the church of St. Catherine there is a very capital picture by Rubens, — the Martyrdom of St. Catherine. The Museum of Natural History is rich in the birds, fishes, insects, and minerals of the surrounding district. There is a tolerable Theatre here. So much active industry as is visible in Lille, is rarely found in a fortified town ; it possesses 1 50 cotton facto- ries, wliich have risen up in the room of the manufacture of lace, for which it was once famous. It has, besides, numerous other important manufac- tures ; and its trade and commercial prosperity are much promoted by the two navigable canals which traverse the town. Tlie cultivation of beet- root for sugar is carried on to a great extent in the country round Lille. Outside the Paris gate are nearly 200 windmills, principally used for grinding rape-seed. The distance from this place to Paris is performed by the diligence in 26 hours, i post extra is paid on quitting Lille. There is a good post road from J8elorhi7?i. ROUTE XIV. TOUUNAY. 93 Lille to Bruges. — See Route XVI., at tlie end. I5 Pont-a-Tressin The last post to"n in France ; the frontier and cus- tom-houses are about 3 miles beyond it. Mem. the "acquit a caution," p. 89. lif TouKNAY (Flem. Doornick). Inns, Hotel de I'lmperatrice, the best, newly fitted up, and kept by a most obliging landlord ; — Singe d'Or. A fortified town of 33,000 inhabit- ants, on the Scheldt, whose banks are faced with masonry so as to contract the river into a navigable channel> and form at the same time handsome (jtiais on each side. It is a flourish- ing and increasing town, a place of great manufacturing industry, stock- ings and carpets being the articles chiefly made here. The carpets com- monly called Brussels come in fact from Tournay ; the art of weaving them was brought hither, according to tradition, from the East by Flemings, who served in the crusades, and learn- ed it from the Saracens. The principal manufactory, though fallen off, still occupies about 2400 persons, and is worth the attention of strangers. Tournay issupposed tobe theCivitas Nerviorum mentioned by Caesar in the Commentaries. Immense sums have been expended on the fortifications since the peace, and a new citadel constructed. It was considered one of the strongest fortresses on the outer line nearest to France, and endured many sieges from English, French, and Spaniards. The most memorable, perhaps, was that of 1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the defence was conducted by a woman, the Princess d'Epinoi, of the noble family of La Laing. She is said to have united the skill of a prudent general to the most intrepid bravery. Though wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ramparts, and at length only yielded to capitulation when three- fourths of her garrison had fallen aroiuid her. Henry VIII. took Tournay in 1518 ; he afterwards sold it to Fran- cis I. The most interesting edifice in the town is the Cathedral, conspicuous from all sides with its 5 towers. It was founded by King Childeric. The existing edifice is in the Romanesque or, as it is termed in England, the Norman Gothic. The nave is sup- ported by two tiers of massive cir- cular arches: the transepts end in semicircular apses. The choir, se- parated from the nave by a screen, enriched with marble, surmounted by a statue of St. Michael, is enclosed by a series of horse-shoe pointed apses, of the lightest and most graceful pro- portions. Behind the high altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. Eleuthe- rius (first Bishop of Tournay, in the Vlth century), of silver gilt, of very rich workmanship, surrounded by figures of the twelve apostles. At the French Revolution, tliis church suf- fered severely, being not only stripped of its revenues, but pillaged and de- faced ; its sculpture broken, and its painted glass for the most part de- molished. The shrine escaped through the zeal of a citizen of the town, who buried it. The chapter has since recovered some of its losses, and must still possess considerable wealth, a portion of which has of late been ju- diciously laid out in restoring the building. At the back of the altar is some rich sculpture by Dusques- noy, and the marble monument of a Prince of Solms. This Church possesses a painting by Ritbens, — The Souls in Purgatory, and in the Sacristy, among a gorgeous collection of priestly robes, is the co- ronation mantle of the Emperor Charles V. King Childeric was buried in the church of St. Brice, on the op)iosite side of the Scheldt. In his coffin were found a great many curiosities, now deposited in the Bibliofheque du Roi at Palis; among them the " Gol- den Bees," with which his royal robes are suppo.sed to have been studded ; 94. ROUTE XIV. ATH. Sect. II. they were in consequence adopted by Buonaparte in his coronation vest- ments, in preference to tlie jlciirs dc lis, as symbols of the imperial dignity. The ancient Convent of St. Martin, with its Gothic church, is now con- verted into an H6td de Ville : it like- wise contains a Museum, anA adjoining it is a shady walk called the Park, and the Botanic Garden. The cannon used at the battle of Cressy are said to have been discovered and made here ; a fact founded upon an old record still existing of the sentence passed on the inventor. While he was in the act of trying experiments, the instrument of death went off unexpectedly, pierced through a wall, and killed a man who was accidentally passing on the outside. He was tried for murder, but was acquitted, as it was proved that lie was aware neither of the power nor effect of his invention. Perk in Warbeck, the pretender to the throne of Henry VII., who gave himself out as one of the princes mur- dered in the Tower, was, by his own confession,the son of aJew of Tournay. Four diligences go to Brussels, and 2 to Calais daily. Those who desire to push on by the nearest road to the Rhine, without stopping at Brussels, may take a short cut from Tournay to Namur by IMons and Charleroi (Route XXVI 11.) The valley of the Scheldt around Tournay is very fertile, producing much corn. Lime is found in abun- dance ; it is quarried in many places, and exported far and wide. A few miles out of Tournay, on the right of the road, after passing the village of Bourquembrays, lies the battle field of Fontenoy, where the English under the Duke of Cumber- land, with the Dutch and Austrians, were defeated in 17-15, by the French under Marshal Saxe, who was at the time so ill as to be carried in a litter. Though the result was un- favourable to the English, the skill shown by their commanders and tlie bravery of the troops were highly creditable to them. The fortune of the day was in a great measure de- cided by the bravery of the Irish bat- talions in the pay of France, who were driven abroad at tliat period by the political state of Ireland, to figlit and win the battles of the enemies of their country. 2 Leuze, a town of 5000 inhabit- ants. 1 § Ath — Inns : eigne, tolerable and cheap; Paond'Or Ath is a for- tress on the Dender, with 8500 inhabi- tants; upon whose defences Vaubancm- jjloyed his utmost skill, and for which, since the battle of Waterloo, modern art has done all that is practicable to increase its strength. It will proba- bly be dismantled, in consideration of the present relations between France and Belgium. It is a flourishing manufacturing town. The principal buildings are the HCtel de Vilk, a structure of the time of the Archdukes Albert and Isabella (1600), and the Chxtrch of St. Jidieti, founded in 1.S93, destroyed by light- ning in 1817, and since rebuilt, but without its tall steeple. The most ancient monument in the town is a tower called Tour dit Burhard, which probably dates from 1150. About G miles from Ath, and not far off the road, is Belceil, the patri- monial estate of the Prince de Ligne, celebrated as a diplomatist, a soldier, and an author. He gives, in his letters, a long description of his country seat and gardens ; they are laid out in the formal French taste, and excited the admiration of Delille, who mentions this spot, in his poem Les Jardins, as — " Beloeil tout i la fois magnifique et cham- pt'tre." Both Voltaire and Delille visited the Prince in his retirement here. The Castle is an ancient Gothic edifice, built in 1146, surrounded by water. The number and length of the ave- nues and high hornbeam hedges, with windows cut in them, intersecting the grounds in all directions, form the singular and characteristic feature of this park. Beh ROUTE XV. — CALAIS TO GHENT. 95 The cultivation of the mulberry and silk worm has within a few years been introduced at Meslin I'Eveque, near Aih, apparently with good suc- cess. An extensive establishment was formed here by the government of the king of Holland, to serve as a model to otliers ; and it is hoped tJiat it may be the means of introducing and ex- tending through Belgium this new and important product, and opening a new branch of national industry. 2\ Enghiex. — A town of 3000 in- habitants. It was an ancient possession of the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, but was sold by Henry IV. king of France to the Duke d'Aremberg, in 1607, and still re- mains in the possession of his family. The Chateau of the Duke d'Arem- berg was destroyed at tlie French Revolution'; but the^beautiful parkand gardens deserve notice. They served, it is said, as a model for tiie famous gardens of Versailles, and are laid out in the same formal style, with ave- nues, temples, statues, canals, basins of water, &c. 7 avenues of beech and horse chestnut diverge from a temple in the park. A fine conserva- tory has recently been added. 1| Hal. — In the Church of Notre Dame is a miracle-working image of the Virgin, which has acquired great wealth from the offerings of pious pilgrims. 2 Brussels. (See Route XXIII.) ROUTE XV. CAIAIS TO GHENT, BY DUNKIRK, TPRES, COURTRAI, AND OUDENARDE. Gravelines - \ ^\ = 11, Dunkirk - - 2| = 12 Bergues - ^ i = 2^ Rousbrugge - 1^ = 8 J Ypres - - - 2^ = 13^ Menin - - 2^ = 11 Courtrai - - Ij = 6 Vive St. Eloi - U = 7^ Peteghem '^- - 1 ^ = 7^: Ghent -" - 2" = 94 '!-} = i9i 19 82i Or, Courtrai to Oude- ' narde Ghent - - 3 = 14^ Diligences go twice a day to Dun. kirk, in 6 hours. An additional ^ post is paid on leaving Calais. A good road to 2-^ Gravelines. A fortress, and desolate-looking small town, with grass growing in its streets ; it has 3000 inhabitants. It is, to use the words of an]^old writer, " very strong, by reason that they can drown it round in four hours, so as no land shall be within a mile of it." It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 20 miles long by 12 broad; almost all this can be laid under wa- ter in case of need, lo ward ofl'a hos- tile invasion on this side of France. At present this district supports a po- pulation of 60,000. It is protected from the sea by the dunes, or sand- hills, and is gradually being drained by its inhabitants. It would cost the arrondissement 10 millions of francs to repair tlie damage caused by ad- mitting the waters upon the land. The Emperor Charles V. here paid a visit to Henry VIII., on his return from his interview with Francis I., at the field of the cloth of gold, 1520. Beyond Gravelines the road is paved. 2i Dunkirk. — hiv. Hotel de Flandres, good, but dear. A considerable fortified town and seaport, with 25,400 inhabitants. Large sums liave been expended in endeavouring to clear the mouth of the harbour from the bar of sand which obstructs it, by means of basins and sluices, which are filled by the flowing of the tide, and discharged at low water, so as to scour a channel through the mud. Tliey are said to liave failed in producing the results anticipated. The Quai usually cro^MJed with vessels, and pier extending far into the sea, are worth seeing : so is the Corinthian portico of the church of St. Eloi, a handsome but most incon- 96 ROUTK XV. — YPRES. Sect. II. gruous frontispiece to a Gothic build- ing ; in front of it is a fine dctaclied Gothic Belfry, containing the'chimes. There is an English Protestant Church here, a proof of the number of British subjects settled at Dunkirk. In the Place Dauphine is the bust of Jolui Bart, a famous sea captain, born here. Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel built by St. Eloi among the sandhills, and thence comes its name, Church of the Dunes. After having been hardly won by the English under Oliver Cromwell from the Spaniards, 1658, it was basely sold by Charles II. to Louis XIV. for 6 millions of francs. By the Treaty of Utrecht (17 J5), the French were compelled to demo- lish the town and fortifications, and an English commissioner was actu- ally sent hither to ascertain that tlie stipulations of the treaty were com- plied with to the letter; a source of deep humiliation to French pride, but of more immediate misery to the poor inhabitants. The country around is little bet- ter than a dreary waste of sandhills thrown up by the wind. It was in the neighbourhood of them that Tu- renne defeated, in 1658, the Spanish army under Don John of Austria, and the Great Conde, who had sided at that time with the enemies of France. A pleasant excursion may be made to the hill of Cassel, about 24 miles off. p. 92. Steamers go from Dunkirk to Rotterdam, Havre, and London. There is a canal from Dunkirk to Furnes, traversed daily by a barge, and another canal to Bergues. ^ post additional is charged on quitting Dunkirk. 1 Bergues — Inn, Poste, not to be recommended. A small and poor fortified town, of 6000 inhabitants, situated on an elevation surrounded by marshes and salt lakes, called Miiere, formerly waste and insa- lubrious; but, liaving been drained within a few years by the construction of liydraulic works, they are now be- coming productive, and less unwhole- some. Though only a fortress of the 3d class, the possession of Bergues has been deemed of such consequence in every war that it has been 8 times taken and retaken, and 9 times pil- laged, in the course of 8 centuries. A very important corn-market is held here every IMonday. The gates are closed at 10, after which, neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The French frontier and custom- house is reached at Oest Kappel : here the " acquit a caution" (p. 89.) must be delivered up. The country through which the road passes is most fertile, enclosed with hedges, and abounding in wood, wliich gives it, though flat, a pleasing English character. Large quantities of hops are cultivated in this district. 11 Rousbrugge, a Belgian village. £^ Ypkes. Inn, A la Chatellenie. A fortified town of 15,000 inhabit- ants, in a fertile plain, but in a situation most unhealthy, from the marshes by which it is surrounded. The kind of linen called diaper, that is, (VYpres, was made here : the En- glish word comes from the corrujjt pronunciation of the name of the place where it was manufactured. Thread is the principal article made here at present. The extent and prosperity of its manufactures had raised the number of its inhabitants to 200,000 souls in the XlVth century, at which period 4000 looms were constantly at work. Its importance has long since de- parted ; and the only relic « liich re- mains to prove its former greatness is the Totvn House, called Les Ilalles, in the great market place, a building of prodigious size, and in a rich style of Gothic architecture, surmounted by a tower in the centre. It was bcgiui in 1.342. The east end, sup- ported on pillars, was ad led in 1730. Closeto it isthe Cathedral of St.INIartin, a Gothic edifice, of considerable size, but not of great beauty. It contains a carved pulpit, and a picture repre- Beh ROUTE XV. YPRES. COURTRAI. 97 senting, in compartments, the story of the Fall of Man, by a very early master ; it is attributed to Van Eyck, but is most probably a copy; it is well-coloured, and a faithful repre- sentation of the human form, but without grace or beauty. A flat stone in the choir marks the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect called Jansenists, so long persecuted by the Jesuits. He was Bishop of Ypres, and died 1638. 2\ jVIenin, on the Lys. Another frontier fortress, with 7000 inhabitants, very dismal and lifeless; it lies quite close to the boundary line of France, which actually touches the glacis. On the way to Courtrai is the village of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of York was defeated in 1793, by General Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. 1^ Courtrai (Flemish Cortrvk). Inn, Poste ; Lion d'Or. A manufacturing town of 19,000 inhabitants, on the Lys, remarkable for its cleanliness, and famous for the table and other linen made here, which is sent to all parts of Europe. An immense quantity of flax of very fine quality is cultivated in the sur- rounding plain, and supplies not only the manufactories of the town, but many of the markets of Europe. There are large bleaching grounds in the neighbourhood. The first Flemish cloth manufacture was established here in 1260. The principal buildings are the H6td de nile in the market place, a plain, but neat Gothic edifice of great antiquity. It contains two very singular carved chimney-pieces, con- taining figures of the Virtues and Vices, and bas-reliefs of subjects relat- ing to the municipal and judicial des- tination of the building: many of them may be styled caricatures in bas relief. They bear the date of 1595, but are probably at least 200 years older; the stotues of Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert and Isabella, are of much more recent origin than th e le of the sculpture. The Church of Notre Dame is a Gothic edifice, founded 1238, by Baldwin, Count of Flanders, and Emperor of Constantinople, but mo- dernized, except a small portion on one side, and encased with marble. It contains behind the high altar a celebrated painting by Vandyk, the Raising of the Cross. — The current story that the canons of the church, being dissatisfied with the picture when sent home, abused it before the artist's face, and that he in con- sequence refused to paint any others for them, after they had confessed their error, is rendered doubtful, by the discovery at Ghent of Vandyk's autograph letter, acknowledging -sWlh thanks the receipt of the money for the painting, as well as of some goffres, a thin sweetcake, for which Courtrai is still celebrated, presented by the canons. Under the walls of Courtrai was fought the famous Battle of Spurs, 1 302, (not to be confounded with the " Battle of Spurs" in which Henry VIII. put the French chivalry to flight, 1513,) gained by an armyj f 20,000 Flemings, principally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, under tha Count de Namur, wver the French under the Count d'Artois, in which the latter was slain, and with him 1200 knights, and several thousand common soldiers were left dead on the field. 700 gilt spurs (an ornament worn only by the French nobility) were gathered on the field from the dead, and hung up as a trophy in the church of the convent of Groenangen now destroyed ; from this circumstance the battle receives its name. A small chapel, built 1831, on the right of the road, a little way outside the Porte de Gand, marks the centre of the battle field. The road runs by the Lys to 11 Vive St. Eloi, or Eloysvife. About 4 miles N. W. of this, is the ] village of Roosbecke, near which I Philip van Artaveldt, the brewer of I Ghent, was defeated 1382, by the 95 ROUTE XVI. CALAIS TO BRUGES. Sect. II. French, and with 20,000 of his countrymen perished in the battle. 11 Peteghem. — The old castle here ■was the residence of the French kings of the second race. On the opposite side of the Lys is Deynse, a small town of 4000 inhabitants. 2 Ghekt. — Here wefall into Route XXI. The traveller who is willing to pro- long his journey by 2 posts, may proceed from Courtrai to Ghent, by 4 Oiidenarde, or Audernarde. A town of 5000 inhabitants, on the Scheldt, containing one of the hand- somest Town Halls in the Netherlands, built in 1626, in the Gothic style, surmounted by an elegant tower. The Council-chamber, decorated with cu- rious carvings, ought to be seen. The church of St. Walburga is also handsome. This is the birthplace of MargaretDuchess of Parma, governess of the Low Countries under PhilipII., and natural daughter of Charles V. by Margaret van Geest, a lady of this place. Tlie battle of Oudenarde, fought imder its walls, in 1 708, was gained over the French by the English, in a great measure through the personal prowess and exertions of JNIarlborough. 3 Ghent. • ROUTE XVI. CALAIS TO OSTEKD OR BRUGES. Posts. Eng. miles. Gravelines i - 2^ = 12 Dunkirk ' - 2i = 12 Fumes - 2f = 13^ Ghistelles - 3i = 17 Bruges - 2| = 1 1 15^ = 65\ A most uninteresting route : the road was formerly very bad, but is now improved ; only 2 leagues of sand near tlie frontier, a drive of 2^ liours, remain unpaved. 2i Gravelines. T £, r> .„ -vtt 5 I Sec Route XV. 2i Dunkirk J It takes S liours to post from Dun- kirk to Bruges. A trekshuit goes daily along the canals from Dunkirk to Ostend, Furnes, Kieuport and Bruges, which makes out the journey rather tedi- ously in y or 10 hours for about 5 fr. It starts for Furnes at 5^ a.m.: and is changed at each of the above towns, the baggage being carried through the streets by porters, which is both troublesome and expensive. At the Belgian frontier it is boarded by the custom-house officers. At Plassendoell, the Dunkirk and Ostend canal joins that which leads to Bruges. The nearest way from Dunkirk to Furnes, when the state of the tide permits the passage, is across the sands by the sea-side ; but they are some- times quick. At the extremity of the sands, about 4 miles from Furnes, is the boundary of France and Belgium, and the station of the custom-house. 2iJ Furnes (Flemish, Veuren). A sickly town, owing to the mal- aria from the surrounding marshes. It Las 3,500 inhabitants. A great part of the linen manufactured in Belgium is sold here at large fairs held three times a year. The portion of the ^hhey of St. WiUehrod, which escaped the ravages of the French Revolution, is curious. It contains an image of the Virgin, which annually works a great many- miracles, and her shrine is tliickly furnished with votive offerings in con- sequence. The H6tel de Ville is a Gothic building, profusely ornamented with carvings. The direct road from Furnes to Ostend is a long stage of 4\ posts by Nieuport, a strong fortress, me- morable for the victory gained on the sand-hills outside its walls by Prince Maurice of Nassau, in 160O, over the Spaniards. His brother. Prince Frc- derick Henry, then only 15, and se- veral young English noblemen, led on by Sir Francis and Horace Vere, served under him. When the action was about to commence, Maurice, who foresaw that it would be a bloody engagement, and had made up his Beh ROUTE XVII. LOKDOX TO ANTWERP. 99 mind to conquer or perish, recom- mended the youthful band to return to Ostend, and reserve tliem<;elves for some other occasion. They scorned to accept tlie suggestion, and determined to siiare all the perils of the contest. la the first onset Sir Francis Vere was desperately wounded, and the English volunteers suffered severely, though they gave an eminent example of courage. The good generalship of Prince ^Maurice was never more conspicuous than on that day, and the arms of the patriots were eventually triumphant. As theie is nothing at all to see at Ostend, and as there are no post- horses at Xieuport, travellers had better make directly for Bruges by Ghistelles, by which they wdl be gainers in time and distance. 3^ Ghistelles. — Inn, Hotel de I'Etoile ; it is the prison as well as the hotel of the place, and therefore not agreeable quarters. This is a pretty village, named from the stable, or stud, of the Counts of Flanders, which was situated here at- tached to the old castle, slight remains of which still exist. In the neighbour- hood is a nunnery and c/iurc/i, con- taining the monument of St. Goda- lieve, a Flemish lady, who was stran- gled by her husband through jealousy, and is now worshipped as a saint. Her bones lie in a shrine of brass, before which a lamp burns night and day. Above her altar is a group of 3 figures as large as life, representing the murder. 2\ Bruges. See Route XXI. N. B. Those who are willing to avoid a sandy and uninteresting road at the expense of a little detour, may proceed from Calais to Lille, and thence by a very good post road to Bruges. Time occupied 6j hours. Jlenin - - - 2J Roussclaer, or Roulers - 2 Thourout - - - 2 Bruges - - - - 2J Including Postes Royales 8i At most of these towns there are apparently good inns ; and at Rous- sclaer there is an extensive college, ROUTE XVII. LONDON TO ANTWERP BV THE SCHELDT. *i^* This is the shortest way to Co- logne, and the beautiful scenery of the Rhine. Steamers go from London every Sunday and Thursday; from Ant- werp every Sunday and Wednesday. Fares : chief cabin 2/. 2s., second cabin 1/. 15s., a carriage 61. The voyage (about 210 miles) occupies from 26 to 30 hours. The course from the Thames to the Scheldt is almost a straight line. It was the situation of the Scheldt, im- mediately opposite the mouth of the English river and the port of Lon- don, that caught the attention of Na- poleon, who saw what advantageous use might be made of such a harbour, to annoy the English in war, or rival them in commerce. On entering the mouth of the river called the Hond or West Scheldt, the land on the left hand is Walcheren, the laigcst of the 9 islands which form the province of Zealand, or Sea- land. The district is most appropri- priately named, since the greater part of it lies many feet below the level of the sea ; it may, therefore, truly be said to appertain naturally to that element. The isles of Zealand, se- parated from one another by the dif- ferent branches of the Scheldt, are pro- tected from the inroads of the ocean, partly by natural sand banks or dunes (§ 12 ), partly by enormous dykes or sea-walls (§ 9.), which measure mora than 300 miles in extent, and cost an- nually more than 2 millions of florins to keep them in repair. The polder?, or drained and dyked meadows, are divided by the water engineers into 2 classes : those nearest the sea or river, which are of course most ex- posed to inimdation, are called polders calamiteu.r ; the more distant are dis- F 2 100 ROUTE XVII. — LONDON TO ANTWERP. ScCt. II. tinguished as non calamiienx. The first class requires stronger dykes, the maintenance of which is considered so important, that they are kept up partly at the expense of government; those further inland, not being equally exposed to danger, are maintained by the province or by private individuals. A large portion of the country being thus partitioned out, as it were, by dykes; even should the outer or sea- dyke break, the extent of the disaster is limited by these inner defences, and the further ravages of the flood are prevented. Notwithstanding the care %vith which they are continually watch- id, a rupture took place in 180S, in the great dyke of West Cappel, by which a great part of the island of "Walcheren was inundated ; the sea stood as high as the roofs of the houses in the streets of Middleburg, and the destruction of that town was prevented solely by the strength of its walls. The whole province is most fertile and productive, especially in corn, and madder, whicli may be considered the staple. Its meadows, manured with wood ashes, bear excellent grass. It is also exceedingly populous, abounding in towns and villages; but, owing to the embankments which enclose them, the only indications of tlieir existence are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall chimneys, seen at intervals over these artificial mounds by those who ascend the Scheldt. The industry of tljc Zealand peasant, and the econom)- witli which he hus- bands his resources, are very remark- able, and might furnish a good ex- ample to the same class in our own country. As an instance of the mode in which he makes a little go a great way, it may be mentioned, that even from the rushes and reeds on the river banks, he gains a meal for his cattle. "When boiled, mixed with a little hay, >ind sprinkled with a little salt, they are much relished by the cows, who thrive upon them, and yield abun- dance of milk (/.). The island (r.) opposite to Walcheren, is Cadsand, memorable in the English expedition of 1809. Cadsand had been, at an earlier period, the scene of a glorious victory gained by the valiant Sir Walter IManny, and Henry Plan- tagenet Earl of Derby, at the head of the chivalry of England, over a large body of Flemings, in the pay of Phi- lip de Valois King of France, in 1 337. The English, efllecting a land- ing in the face of the enemy, drove them from the sand-hills on which they were posted, and took, burned, and razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts of the English archers did great execution, and the personal prowess of the two leaders contributed not a little to the issue of the day. The first town which is perceived on the left of the spectator, and right bank of the river, is (r.) Flushing (Dutch, Vlissingen). Inn, Heerenlogement. A fortified town of 7000 inhabit- ants, with dock-yard and naval ar- senal : 2 large and deep canals, com- municating with the sea, enable the largest merchant vessels to penetrate into the town and unload their cargoes on the quays close to the warehouses. It was bombarded and taken by the English under Lord Chatham in 1809, when a great part of the town was destroyed, and 300 of the inha- bitants perished ; but, since then, the works have been greatly strengthened, and in combination with the Fort of Rammekens, lying to the east, and those of Breskens, on the opposite side of the Scheldt, (here from 2^ to 3 miles broad,) completely command the entrance of the river. Admiral de Ruiter was born here. The fine Stadhuis (Town Hall), 2 churches, and more than 100 houses were destroyed by the bombs and Congreve rockets of the English. Within the walls there is nothing but tlio usual singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10.) to excite the attention of a stranger, but at West Cappel the construction of the dykes is seen in the greatest perfection. At this point Beffriiim. route XVII. — lokdox to Antwerp. 101 there is a gap in the Downs, and the country behind would be at the mercy of the sea, were it not defended by a dyke 4,700 yards long, and 30 feet high, upon the stability of which the safety of the whole island depends. Five miles inland from Flushing is Midddburg, capital of Zealand. {Inn, Heerenlogement. ) 14,000 inhabitants. A remarkably clean town ; with a splendid Town Hall, built, 1468, by Charles the Bold, ornamented with 25 colossal statues of Counts and Count- esses of Flanders. The telescope was invented at Mid- delburg in 1G08 by one Hans Lip- pershey, a spectacle-maker. The climate of Walcheren is most unhealthy in spring and autumn, when even the natives are liable to ague, or a species of marsh fever called the koorts. This disease is far more fatal to strangers, as was proved by the deaths of so many English sol- diers who perished here during the disastrous and ill -contrived expedition of 1809. The fever, however, is not contagious, and may be avoided by protecting the person with warm clothes, against the sudden transitions of temperature, and by careful diet. Many of the inhabitants are very long- lived, and the mortality among the English became so great from the circumstance of their arriving during the most unhealthy season, from their being exposed in tents to the night- air, and from their incautious con- sumption of green fruit. The distance from Flushing to Antwerp up the river is reckoned to be about 62 miles. The island next to Walcheren, forming the right bank of the river, is Zuid Beveland. On the left bank, but at some dis- tance ofT, is Biervliet, a small town, only deserving of mention because a native of this place, named William Beukels, invented in 1386 the art of curing herrings, A monument was erected in the church to him as a benefactor to his country ; and it is related that Charles V. and his sister, the Queen of Hungary, visited his tomb, out of respect to the memory of the fisherman to whom Holland owes a large part of her wealth. Biervliet was detached from the continent by an inundation in 1377, which submerged 19 villages, and nearly all their inhabitants. Dutch industry and perseverance have long since recovered everj' acre. (/.) Terneusen. — Near this are the sluice gates which close the entrance of the new canal extending to Ghent, which gives that city all the advantages of a seaport, as it is 16 ft. deep, and wide enough to admit vessels of very large burthen. It serves also as a drain to carry off the water from the district through which it passes. At Sas van Gend are sluices, by means of which the whole country can be laid under water. The artificial embankments on each side of the Scheldt are protected against the current, and masses of floating ice brought down in winter, by piers and breakwaters of piles driven into the river bed, or by ma- sonry brought from a considerable distance in the interior, principally from Namur. Hitherto both banks of the Scheldt have belonged to Holland; but, after passing the termination of the island of Zuid Beveland, the river flows through Belgian territory. The strait or passage, which se- parates Zuid Beveland from the main land, is commanded by the ven,- strong Fort Bath, which lies on the limits of the Dutch territory. On approaching Forts Lillo (r.) and Lief kenshoek (/. ), the city of Antwerp with its tall spire appears in siglit. These two strong works have remain- ed since the Belgic Revolution in the hands of the Dutch. They completely command the passage up and down the Scheldt, which here puts on the appearance of a river ; below it is more an arm of tlie sea, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The polders (§ 11.) above Fort F 3 102 ROUTE XVII. — LONDON TO ANTWERP. Scct. II. Liefkenshoek, on the left bank, were laid under water during the contest with the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and down to the present year (1838), an immense tract of country remains in conseijuence desolate and useless. Five or six other forts are passed on either side of the river previous to arriv- ing at Antwerp. Between (/. ) Calloo and (r. ) Oordam, in 1585, the Duke of Parma threw across the Scheldt his celebrated bridge 2,400 ft. long, wliich, by closing the navigation of the river, and preventing the arrival of supplies of provisions to the besieged city of Antwerp, mainly contributed to its surrender. The bridge was so strongly built that it resisted the floods and ice of winter. 97 pieces of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts guarded its ex- tremities, and a protecting fleet was stationed beside it to assist in repelling any attack. The besieged, who, at first, laughed to scorn the notion of rendering such a structure permanent, when they found tliat all commu- nication with their friends was cut off by it, began to tremble for the result, and every eflfort was made by them to contrive its destruction. One night, the Spaniards were surprised by the appearance of three blazing fires float- ing down the stream, and bearing directly towards the bridge. These were fire-ships invented by a foreign engineer tlien within the walls of Ant- werp. The Prince of Parma rushed to the bridge to avert the tlireatening danger, and had he not been forcibly removed from it, would probably have lost liis life J for one of the vessels reaching its destination with great precision, blew up with such tre- mendous force as to burst through the bridge in spite of its chains and cables, and demolished one of tlie stockades which connected it witli the shore. 800 Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the explosion, and Parma himself was struck down senseless by a beam : had the Zealand fleet been at hand as proposed, the city might havu been relieved ; unfortunately some untoward mistake prevented its co- operation at tlie riglit moment, and allowed the Spanish general time to repair the damages, which with his usual activity he eflfected in an incre- dibly short space. x\nother attempt on the part of tlie besieged to destroy the bridge by means of an enormous floating machine called the " End of the War," an unprophetic name, was entirely frustrated by the vessel run- ning aground, — and Antwerp, re- duced by famine, was compelled to surrender. It was immediately in front of the fort of St. Laurent, below the town, of Antwerp, that an instance of pa- triotic devotion was manifested on the part of a Dutch officer, which deserves to rank by the side of the heroic deeds of the Spartans and Romans. In Fe- bruary 1831, while hostilities were still in progress between Holland and Bel- gium, one of the Dutch gun-boats, in sailing up the Scheldt from Fort Aus- truweel to the citadel during a heavy gale, twice missed stays. In spite of all the exertions of the crew, the vessel took the ground close under the guns of the fort, and within a very few yards of the docks. The helpless situation of the gun-boat had been marked by crowds of Belgians from the shore ; and the moment she was fast, a body of Belgian volunteers leaped on board, in haste to make a prize of the stranded vessel. Tlie commander, a young officer named Van S))eyk, was called on, in a tri- umphant tone, to haul down his co- lours and surrender. He saw that all chance of rescue, and of successful resistance against unequal numbers, were alike vain ; but he had repeat- edly before ex pressed his determination never to yield up his vessel, and he proved as good as his word. He rushed down to the powder magazine, laid a lighted cigar upon an open barrel of gunpowder; anrl then falling on his knees, to implore forgiveness of the Ahnighty for the crime of self-de- struction, he calmly awaited the result. Belgium, houte XV7II. — Antwerp to Rotterdam. 103 In a few moments the explosion took place i and, while tlie vibration shook the whole city, the dauntless Van Speyk, and all but three out of his crew of 31 men, were blown into the air. Van Spcjk was an orphan ; he had been educated at the public ex- pense in an orphan house at Am- sterdam : nobly did he repay his debt, and his country and king were not unmindful of him. A monument was set up to his memory by the side of that of De Ruiter, and it was decreed that henceforth a vessel in the Dutch navy should always go by the name of the Van Speyk. Antwerp is described in Route XXII. A traveller may be convej'ed from Antwerp to Cologne, on the Rhine, by railroad and diligence, in less than 30 hours. ROUTE XVIII. ANTWERP TO nOTTERDAM BT LAND, THBOUGH BREDA. In order to pass from Belgium into Holland, it is at present necessary to have a special permission from the head-quarters of the Prince of Orange, which must be obtained through tlie in- tervention of a British minister. (§ 1.) The establishment of post horses is kept up as before the Revolution ; but as no communication is allowed be- tween the Belgian and Dutch autho- rities, it is necessary to engage one set of horses to take a carriage from the last Belgian post house to the Dutch frontier, and another from the Dutch frontier to the first Dutch post house. — Jr. A/. T. The public convey- ances ply only as far as the frontier, where they are stopped, and the tra- veller transferred to a vehicle of the opposite country. 2J Gooring. This stage lies over a wild and nearly uninhabited tract of heath, forming the neutral ground whicli di- vides Belgium from Holland. At present, vehicles belonging to either country may cross it, but are prohi- bited from going beyond the first post on the opposite frontiers. Westwesel is the last Belgian village ; Groot Zundert is the first Dutch. At these two places passports are examined. I^ Groot Zundert. 2 Breda. — fniis, H. de Flandres, best. Goude Lceuw, or Golden Lion. Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk and Aa, whose waters, together with the surrounding marshes, render it very strong, and almost inaccessible to an enemy, but at the same time very unliealthy. In the principal Protestant Church is the celebrated Toitth of Count En- gelbcrt of Xnssau, favourite general of the Emperor Charles V., and liis wife, attributed to Michael Angelo. (?) Their effigies, formed of Italian alabaster, repose upon a sarcophagus; while 4 statues of Julius Casar, Rcgulus, and 2 other classic heroes, in a half- kneeling posture, support on their slioulders a table or platform of stone, on which lies the armour of the Prince minutely carved in marble. Tin's ad- mirable piece of sculpture is well worlli a traveller's attention. In the choir there is a curious and well-ex- ecuted series of carvings in wood, re- presenting monks in ludicrous atti- tudes, and intended to satirise the vices of the clergy. The old castle was built, 13.50, by Count Henry of Nas«au ; the modern Chateau by William, afterwards the Third of England. It is a squaro, sur- rounded l)y the waters of the IMerk. Breda was taken from tlie Span- iards, in 1590, by means of a singular stratagem concerted between a brave veteran captain of Prince Maurice's army, named Ilaraugucr, and one Adrian Vandcnberg, owner of a barge which supplied the garrison with turf for fuel. On Thursday, Pel). 26., Ilarauguer, with SO picked soldiers, entered the barge, and were carefully covered over with a cargo of turf. Though the beat had not many miles to 11-0 from the place where it was F 4. 104- ROUTE XIX. — ANTWERP TO ROTTERDAM. Sect. II laden, it was so much impeded by contrary winds, and by the frost which had covered the water with a thick coat of ice, that the 3d day passed before it arrived within \ league of the town. To add to the perils of the crew the vessel sprung a leak ; the soldiers stood up to their knees in water ; and one of them, named Matthias Helt, began to cough so violently that for fear he should cause their detection he entreated his companions to run him through with his sword. Luckily they were not rigorously examined by the guard, and the sacrifice of the brave soldier was not required. It was not till midnight on the 3d of March (5 days after they had em- barked) that the sluice gates of the citadel were opened, and the boat was dragged in through the ice by the very garrison who were so soon to suffer from its entrance. They carried off so much of the turf for their use, that the boards which covered the concealed band were nearly laid bare. By another piece of good fortune, they did not inspect the cargo very minutely ; and Vandenberg, with con- siderable cleverness, contrived by his wit and jokes to turn away their atten- tion, and lulling all suspicion finished by making them drunk. As soon as they were asleep. Captain Harauguer and his soldiers issued forth from their miserable retreat; the sentinels were killed ; and the rest of the garrison, terrified at the sudden and unexpected attack, abandoned the castle without even the precaution of breaking down the drawbridge leading from it into the town, which was entered a few days afterwards by Prince INIaurice and his army. After several fruitless attempts on the part of the Spaniards to regain Breda, it was taken in IC'25 by Spinola, who burnt the famous barge which had contributed to its cap- ture by the Dutch in 1590, and which had been carefully preserved by tiiem. Charles II. resided at Breda during part of the time of his exile from England. 2? MoERDYK (or to Noordhaven 3.) Here carriages are embarked in a steam ferry-boat across the jNIaas to Willemsdorp ; the passage takes 20 minutes. A steamer plies between Moerdyk and Ij Dortrecht. The Waal and the Lek are crossed by ferries between Dortrecht and 2^ RoTTERDAJi (in Route 11.) ROUTE XIX. ANTWERP TO ROTTERDAM BV WATER. Previous to the revolt of Belgium from the King of Holland in 1830, a constant communication was kept up between these two cities by means of steam-boats. Since that time, the passage by water has been stopped. The steam-boats afforded the most convenient, as well as the most expe- ditious, mode of proceeding from An- twerp to Rotterdam ; and during the summer months they started daily, at a certain hour, from either port, re- gulated by the state of the tide. The somewhat circuitous route among the islands cannot make the distance much less than 80 miles, which may be per- formed in ten hours. " The course pursued from Antwerp is down the Sclieldt, in the first in- stance, as far as Bath ; then through the narrow channel close to the edge of tlie extensive sand, along the eastern side of South Bcvcland, which is the Verdronken, or drowned land : the channel of deepest water, which is shallow enough, is here marked off by tall branches of trees, continuing for a long way, and until the fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom is passed at a con- siderable distance to the right. We next enter the long and narrow chan- nel of Tholen; through the Volk Rak into the Flakke and Holland's Diep. After this the steamer enters another narrow channel, more resembling an artificial canal than an arm of the sea, and it continues nearly of an equal width as far as Dordrecht or Dort, being seldom more than from fifty to Belgium, route XX. — voyage from loxdox to ostend. 105 sixty yards wide. It has no visible ar- tificial embankments ; but both sides, apparently on a level with the water, are thickly clothed with tall reeds. " Very little population had hitherto been seen along the shores of the islands : but on approaching Dort, the scene began to change ; cottages and work shops of various kinds skirted this narrow navigation close to the water's edge ; and here and there a neatly painted house was seen planted in the midst of a garden. At some little distance from Dort the uni- formity was relieved, and the unvaried scene much enlivened, by the appear- ance of some fifty or sixty windmills, — some reckoned up near a hundred, — busily whirling round. The reedy banks of the channel had now given way to little patches of garden ground in front of tiiese mills, the lower part of which were generally very neat inhabited dwellings; their roofs, and also the sides of the mills above the habitable part, were mostly thatched with reeds, in a very neat manner, and so contrived that nothing but the points were visible, which gave the appearance of their being covered with a brown rough coat of sand or pebbles, but at a little distance this covering resembled the skin of a mole. " Now also we had on both sides of this navigable channel, — which from Dort to Rotterdam may be considered as the united branches of the Rhine and the Meuse, — numerous establish- ments of ship and boat builders, small Tillages, and now and then a gentle- man's house and pleasure grounds. The confluence of the two streams at Dort had considerably enlarged the navigable channel, which here takes the name of the Maas, and retains it till it reaches the sea, having first passed Rotterdam, Delfshaven, and the Brille." — Family Tour in Hol- land, ROUTE XX. VOYAGE FROM LONDON OR DOVEB TO OSTEND. A steamer goes from London every Saturday morning, and returns every Tuesday evening. The average pass- age is 15 hours, 7 of which are occu- pied in descending the Thames. Tlie vessel reaches Ostend between 1 and 2 in the morning. Fares : cliief ca- bin, 1/. IDs. ; fore cabin, 1/. 5s. ; car- riages, 4/. 4s. Post-office steam-packets run from Dover every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday mornings, and return from Ostend every Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, This passage takes 8 hours. Fares : chief cabin, 1/. Is. ; servants, 10s. 6d.; carriages, 3/. 3s. It is believed that in the summer of 1838, 2 new steam- ers will commence plying, in conse- quence of the anticipated influx of travellers to Ostend, consequent upon the completion of the railroad from Ghent and Mechlin. The sea is stated to be gradually abandoning the harbour of Ostend; it is dry at low water, so that if a vessel miss the tide, it may have to lie off some hours. Passengers have the alternative of embarking in boats. It is very diflScult for sailing-vessels to enter when the wind blows strong off the shore. Ostend. — Inns : Cour Imperiale. — H . des Bains, where the charges are, dinner at table d'hote, 3 fr. ; half bottle of wine, 1 fr. 50 c. ; bed, 1 fr. 50 c. ; tea or breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; cold meat, 1 fr H. de Waterloo. None of them are very good. Tra- vellers should be on their guardagainst the drinking water, which is as bad here as in some'parts of Holland. (§ 6. ) When the steam vessel is much crowded, it is advisable to send off a messenger to secure beds in one or other of the inns as soon as it reaches the shore. Passports must be delivered up to the police on landing. The Passport office and Custom- F 5 106 ROUTE XX.— LONDON TO OSTEND. Sect. II. house are both near the harbour ; they open as early as five o'clock in sum- mer, to prevent any delay to passen- gers, who may desire to proceed on their journey either by the earliest coacli, which starts at six, or by the canal-boat, which sets out at half-past six, for Bruges. A commissionaire will attend to the passport, and secure a place by either conveyance, and consider himself well paid by 2 fr. English is much spoken, and there is even an English chapel here. A few hours at Ostend are likely to exhaust a traveller's patience; while the rigour of the douaiie, and the ex- tortions of innkeepers and commis- &ionaires are not likelj' to improve his temper. There is little to be seen or done here ; so that the best advice which can be given to any one about to embark hence to England, is not to set out for this place a moment sooner than will enable him to go comfortably on board the steamer. Tliose whom accident or design may detain, will, perhaps, be glad of the following information : — Ostend contains nearly 12,000 in- habitants. The land lies very low all round, and tlie waters are controlled by means of sluices. The supply of drinking-water re- quired for the town is brought from a distance. Ostend is strongly fortified, and surrounded by ramparts and a broad ditcli. It endured one of the most famous sieges recorded in history, from the Spaniards; it lasted three years and a quarter, from 1601 to 1G04. The town yielded to the Spanish general Spinola at last, only by command of the States- General, who had gained their point by its ob- stinate resistance. 50,000 men of the besieged, and 80,000 Spaniards, are said to liave fallen during the siege. The victors paid dearly for their con- quest ; all that they gained was a plot of ground, covered with a heap of ruins ; for their cannon had levelled every house with the eai'th, and they lost four other towns ivhich were wrested from them by the Dutch while their armies were engaged in tliis un- profitable enterprise. The noise of the bombardment was, it is said, heard in London at times. As a fortress, Ostend forms the first member of that great chain of de- fences which were intended to protect Belgium on the side of France. There are no public buildings of consequence here ; and the churches are not remarkable, except to those who have never before seen the para- phernalia of the Catholic religion — its images, altars, shrines, wax models of arms and legs hung up as votive offerings, &c. Ostend is a favourite watering- place, and is much resorted to in summer : even the King and Queen of the Belgians repair hither ; and it is said a villa is about to be built for their reception. A bathing-house. Pavilion des Bains, has been esta- blislied close to the sea-shore, on the levee, a sea wall which formerly served as a defence, but is now converted into a promenade. There are rooms for reading the papers, playing bil- liards, &c., which are so placed as to command a good view of the sea : they are also provided with a restau- rant. An English consul (M. Fauclie) resides at Ostend; a British subject may obtain from him a passport, siiould he have neglected to provide himself with one in England. A decent carri.-ige might be hired here to go with job or post horses as far as Brussels, whei'e a good one may be bougiit. A branch of the Great Belgian Railroad unites Ostend to Antwerp. Travelling by diligence, it takes 24 hours to go from Ostend to Aix-la- Cliapelle ; and Cologne may be reach- ed in 3G. Behium. route XXI — ostend to Bruges akd mechlix. lOY ROUTE XXI. FROM OSTEND TO BRUGES, GHEKT, TER- MOXDE AXD MECHLIN. (Raihoad.) Posts. Eng. Miles. Houtave _ i^ = 7J Bruges - 13 = g^ IMaldeghem - li = 7^ Eccloo - l3 = 81 Ghent - . os = l.Sj 9\ = 445 The journey to Briigesmaybe made fcy water in a barge or treckschuit, — a good conveyance, but not equal to that from Bruges to Ghent : carriages may be embarked in it. It is clieaper than tlie diligence, but slower, moving at the rate of 4 miles an hour. It starts at 6 in the morning, and at 2 or 3 in the afternoon ; fare 1 fr. (or 2 fr. including a very good breakfast in the morning). It takes three hours to go from Ostend to Bruges. The canal itself is a fine broad sheet of %vater, three or four times wider than the narrow strips to which we are ac- customed in England. The sluice- gates, called sli/.'ieiis. from whicli the boats start, arc about a mile out of Ostend. Passengers and their bag- gage may be conveyed in small boats, along the canals, traversing the town to and from the sluices, but cannot pass through them. In 1798, a de- tachment of English troops landed at the mouth of tliis canal, and destroyed the sluices ; but the wind shifted be- fore they could make good their re- treat, and they were taken prisoners by the French. Embarking there, we glided on between Strait banks raised higli above the level land, AVith many a cheerful dwelling white and green, In goodly neighbourhood on either hand. Huge-timbered bridges o'er the passage lay. Which wheeled aside, and gave us easy way. Four horses, aided by the favouring breeze. Drew our gay vessel, slow, and sleek,^ and large. Crack goes the whip; the steersman at his ease Directs the way, and steady went the barge. Ere evening closed, to Bruges thus we came. South Ev. A diligence is generally found awaiting the arrival of the boat, at the entrance of Bruges, to convey those travellers who do not intend to stop there, to the canal on the opposite side of the town , a distance of 3 or 4 miles, where other boats are prepared to set out for Ghent. Bi/ land there are coaches twice a day, in two hours and a quarter ; fare 2 fr. ; passing over a country rich in an agricultural point of view, but flat, tame, and tiresome to other eyes than those of a farmer. Tiic diligence and treckschuit, however, will soon bo en- tirely superseded by the Railroad, recently extended from IMechlin, through Ghent and Bruges, to Os- tend, and following a more direct line than either causeway or canal. li Houtave. If Bruges (Flem. Brugge). — Inns : H. du Commerce. Good, comfortable, and cheap, with capital cuisine. — FleurdeBle. Cliarges: ta- ble d'hote dinner, 2 fr. ; half bottle of veri/ ordinary wine, 1 fr. 50 c. ; and very good wine at 3 fr. ; tea and bread, 1 fr. — H. d'Angleterre. This city, the Liverpool of the mid- dle ages, which was rich and powerful • when Antwerp and Ghent were only in their infancy, is now reduced to 43,000 inhabitants, of whom 15,000 are paupers. In the fourteenth cen- tury, the commerce of the world may be said to have been concentrated in it ; factories, or privileged companies of merchants from seventeen king- doms were settled here as agents ; 20 foreign ministers had hotels within its walls; and natives of many distant countries, little of which was then known but their names, repaired hither annually. Early in the Xlllth century, Bruges was made the staple place of the cities of the Hanseatic League, and of the English wool trade, and became the centre of re- sort for the Lombard and Venetian traders, who brought hither the manu- factures of India and the produce of Italy, to exchange them for the mer- F 6 108 ROUTE XXI. BRUGES. Sect. II. chandise of Germany and the Baltic. Richly laden argosies from Venice, Genoa, and Constantinople, might, at the same time, be seen unloading in her harbour ; and her warehouses groaned beneath bales of wool from England, linen from Belgium, and silk from Persia. It was long the residence of the Counts of Flanders ; but it reached the height of its splen- dour in the first part of the XVth century, when the Dukes of Bur- gundy fixed their court here. At present it wears on the whole an air of desolation : the people in its streets are few; it has long lost all indications of commercial activity ; the recent revolution has lessened that little which it previously possessed, and has driven many of its most opulent merchants and ship-owners to Hol- land. Its appearance is the more mournful from its great extent, and the size and unaltered splendour of many of the public buildings and private houses, which are so many vestiges of its former wealth and prosperity. Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame ! The season of her splendour is gone by. Yet everywhere its nioniunents remain: Tgm;)lcs which rear their stately beads on liigh. Canals that intersect the fertile plain — Wide streets and squares, with many a court and hall, Spacious and undefaced — but ancient all. When I may read of tilts in days of old. Of tournays graced by chieftains of renown. Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold — If fancy could portray some stately town. Which of such pomp fit theatre might be, F^ir Bruges ! I shall then remember thee. SOI'THEY. It has still many objects of interest, which deserve at least a day to be de- voted to them. The Grande Place is a good start- ing point. On one side of it stands Les Halles (not the H. de Yille, as it is sometiincs termed), a large build- ing (date 1364), one wing of which was intended to be a cloth-hall ; the other is occupied as a flesh-market. The tower or belfry in its centre is an elegant Gothic structure, impos- ing from its height. The view from its top is, as may be supposed, exten- sive ; it cominands the roofs of tlie city, and a sort of map-like panorama of the surrounding country. The chimes froin this tower are the finest in Europe, and almost incessant: they are played four times an hour by ma- chinery, which may be seen near the top of the tower. It consists of an enormous brass cylinder, acting like the barrel of an organ, and setting in motion the keys of the instrument ; but on Sundays, from half-past eleven to twelve, the chimes are 'played by a musician. On the opposite side of the square, at the corner of the Rue St. Amand, is the house inhabited by Charles II. during his exile from England. Even in his banishment, he was not without a regal title, for the burghers of Bruges elected him " King of the Company of Crossbow- men." (Roi des Arbaietriers. ) Another house in the Grand Place, called the Craetienburc/, is historically remarkable as having been the prison of the Emperor Maximilian, H87-8, when his unruly Flemish subjects, irritated at some infringement of their rights, rose up against him, seized his person, and shut him up in this build- ing, which they had fortified, and con- verted into a prison by barring the windows. For several weeks he re- mained in close confinement, and the citizens kept watch and ward over him. The pope menaced them with excommunication, and the armies of the empire were put in march against them. Nevertheless, -Maximilian was not released until he had sworn upon his knees, before an altar erected in the middle of the square, in presence of magistrates, corporation, and peo- ple, to resign his claims to the tutor- siiip of his son, to respect the liberties of Bruges, and to grant a general amnesty for past offences against his person and government. He ratified this treaty by the most solemn oaths on the sacrament, the relics of St. Donatus, and a fragment of the true JBeliiium. ROUTE XXI. BRUGES. 109 cross ; in spite of which he broke it a few weeks after. The present Cathedral, or St. Sauveiir, a Gotliic building, is tlio handsomest church in Bruges (date after 1:358). Of the pictures whicli it contains, soine are curious from tlieir antiquitj', and most as contributions to the his- tory of Flemish art. In a chapel on the left, as you face the altar, is tlie Martyrdom of St. Hippolytus, who was torn in pieces by wild horses, by Hans Hemling. There is also a good picture of the Last Supper, with Abraham and Elijah, in the centre and at the side, by Piter Porbus. An admirable painting by I'andi/k, of the Adoration of St. Rosalia, has recently been hung up in tlie Cathedral, Iiaving been discovered in 18;35 behind a wall, where it had been placed for security at the time of the French Revolution. It is in most excellent condition. The ancient cathedral of St. Dona- tus, described in the guide books, has ceased to exist for many years past. John Van Eyck, the painter, who died at Bruges, 1441, was buried in it. It was demolished by the French, and its site is now planted with trees, and formed into a promenade. Notre Dame (Onser Vrouw) is less remarkable for its architecture than for the works of art to be found in it. The pulpit is one of those specimens of elaborate carving in wood, so com- mon in the churches of the Nether- lands. In a side chapel, on the right- hand aisle as you face the high altar, is a statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angcio, and believed by Sir Joshua Reynolds to have certainly the air of his school ; it is a work of considerable merit, and deserving particular attention. Ho- race Walpole is said to have offered 30,000 florins for it. It was carried to Paris by the French. Beyond, in a side chapel of the same aisle, are the tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and his daughter Mary, wife of the Emperor Maximilian, the last scions of the house of Burgundy, and the last native sovereigns of the Netherlands. The effigies of both father and daughter, made of copper, richly gilt, but not displaying any hiffh excellence as works of art, repose at full length on slabs of black mar- ble. Beneath and round the sides are coats of arms riclily enamelled, " which record the string of duchies, counties, and lordships which this il- lustrious and amiable heiress brought to tiie House of Austria, and which afterwards swelled the empire, on whicli the sun never set, of her grand- son Charles V. The exquisite rich- ness of the monuments, tlie historical interest attaching both to the father and daughter, and the affection of the Flemish for the memory of this young countess, who died when pregnant at the age of twenty-five, by a fall from her horse, while hawking with her husband near Bruges, having long concealed, out of aflTection for him, the mortal injury she had received, render them objects worthy of con- siderable attention." The Duke wears a crown on his head, and is decorated with the order of the Golden Fleece. The monument of Mary of Bur- gundy was erected in 1495. In 1558, Philip II. bespoke one exactly like it for his great great grandfather, Charles the Bold, and paid one Mas- ter .Tonghelinck for it 14,000 florins, besides 40 florins to each of the work- men as compensation for the loss of his teeth in the process of enamelling. During the French Revolution these monuments were concealed, to pre- serve them from rapacity and Van- dalism, by the beadle of the church, Pierre Dezutter, at the peril of his life, as a price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head in consequence of this good deed. They are now usually covered up with cases to preserve them from injury and dust ; but a fee to the con- cierge will at once lay them open to inspection, and will not be regretted. A richly carved Gothic tabernacle on the east of the right altar, and a paint- ing in the style of John Mabuse 110 ROUTE XXI. BRUGES. Sect. II. (XVIth century), representing a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the centre, with seven scenes from the life of Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. Tlie Crucifixion and the Last Supper, by Peter Porhus, hang in the side aisles, and are said to l)e amongst the finest works that artist ever painted. Close to the church of Notre Dame is the Hospital of St. John, an an- cient charitable institution, where the sick are attended by the religious sis- ters of the house, whose duties resem- ble those of the Soeurs de la Charite. Portraits of some of the directors and superiors of the establishment hang in the Chapter House, which also contains the celebrated pictures, the pride of the city and admiration of travellers, painted by Ha?is HemVing, or Einmdinch, and presented by him to the Hospital out of gratitude for the succour which he had re- ceived while a patient in it. The subject of one is the Virgin and Child, with St. Catherine; and on the lateral pieces, the Decollation of St. John Baptist and St. John Evan- gelist at Patmos : on the outside are several figures of saints. The artist never surpassed, or even equalled, this great performance. Even ordinary beholders, not artists, though they may be offended with the stifl^ness of the figures, peculiar to paintings of the period at which they were executed, cannot withhold their admiration on observing the minute finish of the faces, — equal to that employed in the finest miniatures, — the exquisite cha- racter which they discover, and the beauty and vividness of the colouring. Tliey were executed in 1479. Tliere is another small altarpiece by Hemling, also with wings : the principal subject is the Adoration of the Magi ; at the sides are the Nativity, and the Purifi- cation iu the Temple. Besides these there are two heads by Hvmling. In the chapel of the Hospital is preserved a wooden coffer for holding relics, painted by the same artist, in compartments, with subjects from the legend of St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins at Cologne. It well deserves minute inspection, the paintings l)eing executed with the most delicate finish. Offers are said to have been made to the Governors of the Hospital to give a shrine of solid silver, the same size as the painted casket, in exchange forit. The large open hall, divided by partitions into wards and dormitories, and kitchen for the use of the patients, is interesting for its cleanliness and obvious good order, and, above all, for its antiquity. It is a vaulted apartment, with Gothic pillars, and, probably, has undergone no change since the day when Hemling was re- ceived into it. It is still an hospital of the middle ages. Admission is given at any time except when service is going on in the church. The H6td de J'ille is an elegant Gothic structure, though of small dimensions, built in 1377. The niches in front were decorated with curious statues of the Counts of Flanders ; but on the arrival of the French revolutionary army, in 1792, all these "representations of tyrants" were pulled down, broken, and burnt in a bonfire in the great square, the ma- terials for which were composed of the gallows, the scaffold, and the wheel. At a window or balcony, in front of the building, the Counts of Flanders presented themselves to the citizens, after their accession, and took the oaths, promising to obey the laws and maintain the privileges of the town. The Public Library is now placed in the Grand Hall, extending nearly the whole length of the building, and is remarkable for its Gothic roof of wood. It contains many interesting ancient MSS., decorated with curious early paintings. Among other cu- riosities is a missal of the XlVth century, and the scheme of a lottery drawn at Bruges in 1445 — an earlier date than is usually given to the in- vention of lotteries, which renders it probable that they originated in Flan- Belgium. EOUTE XXI. — BRUGES. Ill ders, and not in Italy, as is commonly believed. Tliei e is a pretty little Gothic chapel in the right-hand corner of the square at the end of the Town House, called La CJiapdle du Sarig de Dieu, from some drops of our Saviour's blood, ' brought by Thierry of Alsace from | the Holy Land, and presented by hun to the town. The exterior, in the most elegant florid Gothic, dates [ from 1533. Happily it has recently j undergone partial repairs and restor- ' ation. The rest of the building is mucli older. The crypt is highly worthy of notice ; it is called the Cha- pel of St. John, and is in a very an- cient circular style. It is certainly the oldest building in Bruges, and prohaUy the oldest in Brabant or Flanders. It is said to date from the IXth century. The Academy of Fainting, in the building called Het Poorters Huys, Rue de la Bourse, is worth visiting, on account of two or three fine old paintings which it contains. The most remarkable are, by J. Van Eyck. — The Virgin and Child, with St. George and St. Donatus; date, 1436. "It has great character of nature, and is very minutely finished, though the painter was sixty-six years old when it was done."(^7r /. R.) It was formerly in the church of St. Donatus A head of Clirist, with the date 1440. The se- cond figure 4 has been partly erased, so as to look like 2, which has given rise to the erroneous assertion that this was the first picture painted by this artist witli oil colours. (§ 25.') \ The genuineness of this picture is doubt- ed ; but another work, a portrait of his ivij'e, is painted in a very superior style. A statue of Van Eyck, who was called John of Bruges, from his long residence here, stands in one of the apartments. Hans Hemling. — An altar-piece with folding doors; in the centre, the Baptism of Christ ; on the wings, por- traits of the donor of the picture, his wife and family ; and on the outside. the Virgin and Child. This is a beautiful painting, remarkable es- pecially for the sweet expression of some of the countenances, and their elaborate finish. It was formerly in the Town House. — There [is an- other altar-piece by the same master, but very inferior to the preceding, representing St. Christopher with the infant Jesus on his shoulders. Three or four other pictures shown here are attributed to Hemling, but their genuineness is doubted ; at all events, they are far below the others in excellence. — Portraits of a governor of Flanders and his wife, by Peter Porbiis, are also good. The private collection of pictures of the late Mr. Imbert contained many fine specimens of the early Flemish school. It may possibly be dispersed now. (?) T7ie Jerusalem Church is only re- markable on account of a copy of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem con- tained in it, from which it gets its name. It is possible that it is a fac- simile of the interior of the tomb, for it is recorded that the founder of the chapel, a citizen of Bruges, made three journeys to the Holy Land to perfect the resemblance. The Princenhof — the ancient pa- lace of the counts of Flanders, in which the marriage of Charles the Bold with Margaret of York, sister of Edward IV., was celebrated in 1468, and where Philip le Bel, father of Charles V., was born, is reduced to a few fragments of ruined wall in- cluded in a private house. The Palais de Justice, was anciently called Palais du Franc de Bruges, (the liberty of Bruges, an extensive district independent of the town.) The Council Chamber of the magistrates is particularly deserving of notice : it is antique, though the rest of the build- ing dates from 1722. It contains a magnificent chimney-piece, occupy- ing one side of the room, carved in wood (date 1529), including sta- tues as large as life, and well exe- 112 ROUTE XXI. BRUGES TO GHENT. Sect. II. cuted, of Charles V., Mary of Bur- gundy and Maximilian, Charles the Bold and Margaret of York, his third wife, surrounded with coats of arms of Burgundy, Spain, &c. It is also decorated with marble bas- reliefs representing the story of Su- sanna. The Begidnage, or Convent of JBe- guine Nuns, near the western ex- tremity of the town, is inferior in extent to the one at Ghent ; but tra- vellers ought to visit one or other of these interesting establishments. There is an English nunnery here : it was founded more than a century ago, for forty nuns, natives of Eng- land and Ireland. The cliapel is much admired. Strangers are ad- mitted to hear the service, which is chanted by the nuns. Service is performed on Sundays in an English Protestant church. The principal manufacture carried on in tiie town is that of lace; but even it is much fallen off. In the two Latin lines already quoted, § 23., this town is said to be famed for pretty girls. Bruges has not lost its reputation in this respect, and many a fair face and pair of black eyes will be met with peeping out from under the black hood of the cloak which is generally worn by the females of the lower orders, or surrounded by the primly plaited frills of a lace cap. The invention of decimal arith- metic has been attributed to Simon Stevin, of Bruges. He was one of the best mathematicians of his age ; he recommended, but did not invent, decimal arithmetic. The famous order of the Golden Fleece was established by Philip the Good, in 1430, at Bruges. In the syiTkbol of this institution he paid a just compliment to the skill of the weavers of Flanders, who, by the per- fection to which they had brought the manufacture of wool, had mainly contributed to the rapid advancement in prosperity of this country dur- ing the middle ages. The fleece. therefore, was very appropriately chosen as an emblem of the power and splendour of the rulers of Flan- ders. During the discontents which broke out in Belgium in the four- teenth century, Edward III. invited many Flemings to England, who brought over with them the art of manufacturing the finer woollen cloths previously unknown, and by their as- sistance we soon surpassed those of Flanders in excellence. There are diligences from Bruges several times a day to Ostend and Ghent, besides canal boats. Coaches run, also, to Courtray. Six canals concentrate, at Bruges, from Ghent, Sluys (Ecluse, the port of Bruges), Nieuport, Furnes, Ypres, and Ostend. BRUGES TO GHENT. By Land. — Diligences two or three times a day. The high road is very circuitous, about one third longer than the canal, and, at the same time, monotonous. On quitting Bruges, it passes along an avenue of fine trees for some distance. 1 i Maldeghem. \^ EcHoo. — The only large town on the route; 7000 inhabitants. The road crosses the Bruges canal twice before it enters Ghent. By Water. — The distance is 28 miles, a journey of 7 hours. Every morning at half-past nine a very handsomely fitted up barge or treck- schuyt, surpassing in its appoint- ment any other in Belgium or Hol- land, starts along the Great Canal for Ghent. " Beside the busy wharf the treckschuit rides, With painted plumes and tent-like awning gay; Carts, barrows, coaches hurry from all sides. And passengers and porters throng the way. Contending all at once in clamorous speech, rnnch, Flemish, English, each confusing each. All disregardant of the Babel sound, A swan kept oaring near with upraiseor is likewise in his best manner, only his left leg is something too large. On the other door is St. Barbara, (? St. Catherine); the figure without character, and the colouring without brillancy. The predominant colour in her dress is purple, which has heavy eflTect." — Sir J. R. The pulpit is singular : it is very beautifully carved in wood by Ver- bruggen ; and represents twininp shrubs and interlaced branches of trees, with various birds — many of them of species unknown in nature, — mere fanciful inventions of the artist, perched upon them. There are several tombs and sta- tues of marble in the choir by the same artist. The chapel of the Holy Sacrament contains an altar carved by him, and a painting by theyo««^f/ Franck, of our Saviour disputing with the Doctors, among whom the painter hasintroducedportraitsof Luther, Cal- vin, Erasmus, and other reformers. " There are some fine heads in this picture ; particularly the three meti that are looking on one book, are admirable characters ; the figures are well drawn and well grouped ; the Christ is but a poor figure." — Sir ./. Reynolds- The music in the Cathedral on Sun- days and festivals is very grand ; the masses of some of the most celebrated composers are splendidly performed. The iteeple, one of the loftiest in the world, 360 ft. high, is of such beautiful and delicate Gothic work- manship, ^s to have caused the £m- c 5 130 ROUTE XXII. ANTWERP. Sect. II. peror Cliaiks V. to say it deserved to be kept in a case ; while from the minuteness of the carved work Na- psleon compared it to Mechlin lace. The date of this part of the building is from 1422 to 1518; the architect's name was Amelius. On the outside, near the foot of tlie tower, is an old draw-well, now a pump, covered with a broken Gothic canopy of iron, which deserves notice only from the tradition that it was the handyvvork of Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith of Antwerp, who hav- ing fallen in love with the daughter of a painter, changed his profession to obtain her father's consent to their marriage, and succeeded even better with the palette and pencil than he had at the forge and hammer, as his great work in the Museum here will testify. At the side of the West door of the Cathedral is a tablet to his- memory with this Latin verse — Connubialis Amor deMulcibre fecit Apelleiiti. His body, originally buried in a Church which the Spaniards pulled down to make way for the citadel, was re-interred at the foot of the spire in 1629. Over the door is a crucifix made out of the bronze of a statute of the infamous Duke of Alva, de- stroyed by the people of Antwerp. It has given rise to the saying, " D'un grand sc J. R. The works of Vandyk in this mu- seum arc, — (111.) A Crucifixion; St. Catherine of Sienna, (Sir Joshua calls her St. Rosaria), at the feet of 136 ROU PE XXII. — ANTWERP. Sect. 11. Christ, and St. Dominick. " A sepul- chral lamp, and a flambeau reversed are here introduced, to show that Christ is dead : two little angels are represented on each side of the cross, and a larger angel below. The two little ones look like embryos, and have a bad effect ; and the large angel is not painted with equal success to many other parts of the picture. The shadows are too red, and the locks of the hair are all painted in a hard and lieavy manner. For its defects, ample amends are made in the Christ, which is admirably drawn and coloured, and a breadth of light preserved over the body with the greatest skill; at the same time tliat all the parts are dis- ■^inctly marked. Tiie form and cha- racter are of a more elegant kind than those we see commonly of Rubens." " The idea of St. Catherine closing her eyes is finely imagined, and gives an uncommon and delicate expression to the figure." " The conduct of the light and shadow of this picture is likewise worth the attention of a painter. To preserve the principal mass of light which is made by the body of Christ, of a beautiful shape, the head is kept in half shadow. The under garment of St. Dominick and the angel, make the second mass ; and the St. Ca- therine's head, handkerchief, and arm, the third."— 5i>/. ft. (112.) The dead Christ on the knees of the Virgin. " This has been one of thie most chaste pictures, but the colouring is gone. The expression of the Virgin is admirable ; it conveys an idea that she is petitioning with an earnest agony of grief. The Virgin's drapery and the sky being exactly of the same colour has a bad effect ; the lineni s remarkably v^'ell folded.">^5i> J. li. (H3. ) Same subject — differently treated. «' The Virgin's head is ad- mirable for drawing and expression. Tlie figure of Christ is likewise finely drawn, every part carefully de- termined J but tlie colouring of this figure, and indeed of the picture in general, is a little too cold ; there is likewise something defective in one of the hands of the Virgin." — Sir J. R, (114.116.) Portraits of Caesar Scaglia and of Malderus, bishop of Antwerp. Seghers (118.). — Marriage of the Virgin, " one of his best pictures." Schitt (125.). — Martyrdom of St. George. " It is well composed and well drawn, and is one of his best pictures ; but the saint has too much of that character, which painters have fixed for Christ. There is a want of brilliancy from its having too much harmony ; to produce force and strength, a stronger opposition of co- lours is required." — Sir J, li. (54.) Ambrose Franks. " The mar- tyrdom of St. Crispin and Crispinius, has some good heads, but in a dry manner. " — Sir J. li. Cortwiiusde Vos (99.) St. Norbert and another saint receiving the Sacra- ment. (97.) — Tlie Family Snoek presenting an offering to the Church of St. Michael. The portraits are extremely well painted. " De Vos was particularly excellent in por- traits." — Sir J. Ji. — Of this there can be no better proof than is afforded by the portrait (98.). The keeper of the corporation of St. Luke, i. e. the Aca- demy of Antwerp, covered with the medals and other decorations pre- sented, along with the goblets on the table before him, to that Institution by princes and potentates, all of whici) have long since disappeared. It is painted with wonderful force and truth. Titian ( . ). — Pope Alex- ander VI. introducing to St. I'eter the admiral of his fleet against the Turks (a bishop of Paphos), is an in- teresting picture, in the early style of the master. It once belonged to the collection of King Charles I. A modern work, the Death of Ru- bens, by Van I3rce, President of the Academy looks cold and raw by the side of the pictures enumerated above, but it has the good fortune to Belgium. ROUTE XXII. — ANTWERP. 137 be esteemed by the citizens at least equal to its deserts. M. Von Lancker's private Gallery of paintings was sold in 1835. T/ie Docks and Banns. — Napoleon laboured unceasingly to make Ant- werp the first Sea-port and naval Arsenal of the north, to render it the rival of London in its commerce, and of Portsmouth as a naval establish- ment. He well knew that the trade of London would to a certain extent he at the mercy of a hostile fleet sta- tioned so near to the mouth of the Thames as Antwerp. The works carried into execution by hira are said to have cost 2,000,000^. sterling. The English all along endeavoured to frustrate so formidable a design ; and the ill fated expedition of 1809 to Walcheren, was designed for the de- struction of these works. At the conclusion of the peace of Paris, in 1814, the dock-yards were demolished in accordance with one of the articles of tljat treaty. The two basins were allowed to re- main for commercial purposes, and before the last revolution formed a great source of prosperity to the city ; but the reviving trade of Antwerp has, since 1830, taken an opposite channel, and now flows to Amster- dam and Rotterdam. One of the basins is capable of containing 34, the other 14, ships of the line. The entrance to them from the river, is commanded by the guns of the citadel ; in winter they are of the greatest ser- vice in protecting vessels, which, if allowed to remain in the open river, would be seriously injured by the floating ice. They are lined with ca- pacious warehouses; and between the two stands a venerable edifice, origin- ally the factory of the Hanseatic League called the Oosterlings. This building, a palace in extent, served as a warehouse and residence for the Consul, or Director of that celebrated association of merchants. At the head of the inner dock stands the hand- ■)Ome range of buildings intended by the King of Holland for a douane and entrepot ; the centre is ornament- ed with a Doric portico, but is un- finished. The southern extremity of the town, nearest the citadel, still exhibits the devastation, inflicted by the bombard- ment of 1830. The street border- ing on the quay is lined with the ruins of the arsenal and magazines, laid prostrate and destroyed with all their rich contents of merchandise, by the guns of the citadel, and the fleet in the Scheldt. The church of St. Michael shared the same fate. The total loss sustained by the town on this occasion has been estimated at nearly 4,000,000 of guilders. The Citadel, so remarkable for the siege which it endured in 1832, was erected by a celebrated engineer named Pacciotti, for the Duke of Alva to keep in awe the citizens. It was long regarded as a model of a fortress, especially after the celebrated General Carnot had strengthened greatly its works, and exhausted all his science and skill as an engineer upon it. It endured under his com- mand a blockade of four months in 1814, and was at length yielded up to the British under General Graham. The siege of 1832 began on the 29th of November, on which day the French first broke ground, and ended on the 23rd of January, when the gar- rison surrendered themselves prisoners of war. The whole French force marched into Belgium imder the command of Marshal Gerard, may be estimated at 66,400 men ; the troops actually employed in the siege, at 55,000. Such a numerous army and tremendous train of artillery were probably never before brought to the siege of a fortress of such extent, and were far greater than necessary to re- duce such a place according to the usual practice of war. The troops in the trenches were commanded by the Duke of Orleans, and the chief engineer was General Haxo. The Belgians were allowed to fire the 138 ROUTE XXII ANTWERP. Sect. II. first gun from Fort Montebello on the 4th, when the siege was formally commenced. The Lunette St. Lau- rent, the part nearest the town, was first attacked, and was taken on the 14th. On the 21st. batteries began to breach the Bastion de Toledo ; on the 23rd, tlie breach was nearly prac- ticable, when General Chasse sent a flag of truce and the garrison sur- rendered. The immber of the Dutch garrison under the veteran General Chasse amounted to 4500 men, with 145 pieces of ordnance. The French had 223 guns, — an overwhelming weight of metal. The trenches dug by them measured between 8 and 9 English miles ; and no less than 63,000 pro- jectiles were thrown by them ; so that every thing within the fortress in the shape of wall or building, was all but razed to the ground ; even many of the casements and other parts which had been considered bomb-proof, were shattered, and the subterraneous gal- leries used as an hospital, threatened to fall and crush the wounded and dying deposited in them, towards the end of the siege. In looking afterwards at the solid walls rent from top to bjttom, and tottering, it might have been supposed that nothing but an earthquake could have caused such total desolation. The whole interior space presented one deplorable mass of ruins, the very ground being furrowed and ploughed up by the shot and shells ; and, to use the words of an eyewitness, there was not a foot's space of ground or build- ing that was not shattered or pierced. Of the little gotiiic chapel which stood within the citadel, scarcely any part remained whole. In a military point of view, the injury done to the outer fortifications, excepting the breach, was not con- siderable. They have all been re- paired, and a new demi-lune has been erected to strengtlien the works. Ad- mission to see the citadel may be obtained by written application sent through the laquais de place of the Hotel. At present no traces of the siege remain, except in the absence of the houses, barracks, and church, which once filled the interior, and being knocked down by French can- non, are now entirely removed, leaving an open esplanade within the walls. The only objects worth notice are, the confined casemate in the Bastion Duque, originally used as a prison for galley slaves, in which General Chass^ was lodged for a month, deprived of the light of day ; and the temporary Hospital erected by the Dutch, con- sisting of a bomb-proof roof of earth 8 ft. thick, supported on planks by numerous trunks of trees 6 ft. high, with sloping beams of wood at the sides, instead of walls. There is a large and New Theatre, but the events of the revolution and siege have not favoured it at its com- mencement. It is tenanted for apart of the year by a travelling company. The H6td de ViUe (1581), in the Grande Place, is not equal in splen- dour to those of Ghent, Brussels, or Louvain, but is still a handsome edifice, and contains the town li- brary. The Bourse, built in 1583, is in- teresting because it was the place where " men used most to congregate'' in the times when the whole world's trade was carried on in it. Sir Tho- mas Gresham, who resided at Ant- werp 1550 as British Agent, chose it as a model for the Royal Exchange in London. Hound the inner court runs a species of cloister supported by columns of Moorish- Gothic, not with- out beauty. The English established a connexion with x\ntwerp at a very early period ; they had an Exchange of their own here, which still exists, retaining the name Englesche Beurs, Edward III. visited the city in 1338, and a son born to him here by Queen Philippa was named Lionel of Ant- werp in consequence. Belorium. ROUTE XXIII. ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. 139 One of the oldest buildings in the town is the Boucherie. The Post Office is in the Place Verte. The house in whicli Rubens resided and died, was situated in the Rue de Rubens. The original front was taken down a f&w years ago, which deprived it of much of its interest. The women of the lower orders here wear a veil, resembling tlie Spanish ninntilla ; and there is little doubt, that this costume is a relic of the times when the Spaniards were masters of Belgium. It is, however, fast falling into disuse. The Quai, extending by the side of the Scheldt, more than a mile, forms an agreeable promenade. The Place de Meir should be visit- ed on market day ( Friday) when it presents a most lively scene, crowded with country-women in their pic- turesque Flemish costume. English Service is performed twice every Sunday at a church in the Rue des Tanneurs. " Bailey's Indian Warehouse is worth visiting; the traveller will there see the best specimens of the black silk for which Antwerp has always been cele- brated, of which the mantillas are made. It is sold by the weight : the richest quality is about 1^ English yard wide costs about 25f. the Flemish ell. The colour does not change even on the application of lemon juice. The best Modiste at Antwerp is Madame Andr6, 1052, Rue des Tanneurs." — P. A British Consul resides at Ant- werp. The terminus of the great Belgian Railroad (§ 20), is a little beyond the walls of Antwerp. The departures of the trains take place 6 times a day in summer. Passengers may be con- veyed to the starting place from any part of Antweri^^ by omnibusses. IVIany great advantages are antici- pated from this undertaking in re- viving the trade of Antwerp, when it is completed so as to open a commu- nication for goods and passengers between the Rhine and Scheldt. ROUTE XXIII. ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. Post., Eng. miles. By Malines - 2'J = 13i Brussels - 2f = 13^ 5\ = 26^ 5 a post extra is charged. Passengers are now conveyed by steam carriages along the New Rail- road 6 times a day, in less than an hour and a half. The fares from Antwerp to Brussels vary from 3 fr. 50 c. to 1 fr. 20 c. according to the quality of the carriage. The dili- gences take 4 liours. The Porte de Malines, by which the road quits Antwerp, bears in- scribed in large letters the characters S. P. Q.A. (Senatus populusque Ant- verpia2) — a poor conceit, even in the prosperous days of the great city — which sounds somewhat empty, now that it has fallen from its high estate. The road traverses the village of Berchem, which was the head quar- ters of the French general Marshal Gerard during the siege. In the orchards and gardens on the right the French first broke ground, and com- menced the trenches by which the approach to the citadel was efiected. Many pretty country seats and gar- dens of the merchants and citizens of Antwerp line the read on either side. Co« 154- ROUTE XXV. WATERLOO. Sect. II. tlic riglit (^ in tlie plan) to the memory of Col. Gordon, that on the left (^) in honour of the Hanoverian officers of the German Legion who fell on the spot. Hereabouts the high road is tra- versed nearly at right angles by a small country cross-road. During the first pait of the action, the Duke of Wel- lington stood in the angle formed by the crossing of these two roads, and on the right of the higliway, at a little distance from a solitary elm, called the Wellington Tree ('in the plan), from a report that the Duke had placed himself beneath it during the action. The Duke knew better than to post himself and his staff close to an object ■which must inevitably serve as a mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon the strength of this story, however, the elm, after being mutilated and stripped by relic hunters, was cut down and sold, some time after the battle, to an Englishman. About half-way down in the hollow which separated the two armies, and in which the most bloody combats took place, is the JanHo/'ia //aye Sainte (•>), close to the roadside on the right. It was at first occupied by the soldiers of the German Legion, and gallantly de- fended till their ammunition was ex- hausted, when they were literally cut to pieces, and it was captured by the French, who could not, however, long keep possession of it : a terrible car- nage took place in the house and garden, and the building was riddled with shot. Close to this house is shown the grave of Shaw the heroic Lifeguards- man, who killed 9 Frenchmen \\ith his own hand in the battle. Not far off, on the opposite side of the road, the bodies of 4000 men, intermixed with those of many horses, were buried in one common grave. It was near this spot that the brave General Picton was killed, and Colonel Ponsonby wounded. One of the attacks against the English left was led by Ney in person. Four Scotch regiments were engaged in this part of the fight. I-aHaye, bear witness.' sacred is'its height. And sarrcd is it truly from that day ; For never braver blood was spent in fight Tlian Britain here hath ,mingled with the clay. Set wliere tliou wilt thy foot, thou scarce canst tread, Here on a spot unhallowed by the dead. Here was it that the Highlanders withstood The tide of hostile power, received its weight With resolute strength, and stemmed and turned the flood; And (itly here, as in that Grecian strait, The funeral stone might say — Go, traveller, tell Scotland, that in our duty here we fell. If we now proceed across the valley and up the opposite slope, we reach the farm of La Belle /Alliance, a so- litary white house, on the left of the road ('). It was occupied by the French, whose lines were drawn up close behind it;, though towards the end of the engagement. Napoleon in person tnarshalled his imperial guaid in front of it, for a final charge. Na- poleon's place of observation during a great part of the battle ^^•as nearly on a line with La Belle Alliance, at some distance on the right of the road. In tliis house, now a poor inn, Wel- lington and Blucher met after the battle. Tiie Prussians have erected a cast-iron monument (■') at a sliort distance on the left, in memory of their fellow-countrymen who fell here. A little way beyond La Belle Al- liance is the liouse of Coster («), Na- poleon's guide (since de.ad) ; and near this spot, a glimpse may be had of the farm of Ilovgoumotit, about 2 miles off on the right. Gros Caillou (I*'), a farm house in which Napoleon slept, was burnt in consequence by the Prussians next day, to shov^• their hatred of their enemy. The foregoing enumeration of the various localities of the field, has been made in the order in which a traveller would pass them in following the high road from Brussels. If he in- tend to turn aside and examine the field more minutely, the following description may assist him : — Tiie Mound of the Bilgic Lion '-) is by far the best station for surveying Belgium. ROUTE XXV. WATERLOO. \?L the field. It is a vast tiiinulus, 200 feet high, beneath which the bones of friends and foes lie heaped indi'^cri- minately together. A flight of steps leads up to the top. The lion was cast (by Mr. Cockerill of Liege) from cannon taken in the battle, and is intended to stand on the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded. To sliow with what difTcrent eyes various travellers behold tlie sair.e ob- ject, the following extracts are given, touching the commennoratoi-y mound : " There is bad taste in thus seeking to glorify one particular wound amidst so many instances of devotedness to death. The great mass of earth too, obstructing the view, and changing the face of the field, is an ill-imagined ex- crescence." — Bnd'Ihi^toii's Reminis- cences of the lifune. '• The appearance of this earthen pyramid is exceedingly striking; it is by far the most prominent object in the landscape; and wliether considered in reference to itself, or the great events which it illustrates, partakes in no small degree of the sublime." — \otes of a Journey from Paris to Osfend. A third critic, the author of the Fa- mily Tour, takes a middle course : — " The mound and the lion have equally been the subject of ill-natured censures, but would appear appropri- ate enough, since they serv-e at once as a memorial, a tropliy, and a tomb. " The lion's teeth and nails were mu- tilated by some of the French troops in their passage to the siege of Ant- werp. They would have vented tlieir ill-humour ia further injuries, had not Marshal Gerard put a stop to the proceedings. The present appearance of the field differs considerably from what it was at the time of the battle, owing to the excavation made along the front of the British position, to obtain earth for this artificial mound. The ridge of Mont St. Jean has been considerably reduced in height ; and the spot where the duke of Wel- lington stood is quite cut away; the ground near being lowered several feet by the removal of the earth. From t!ie top of the ^lound, it will be perceived, that the ground is a perfectly open and undulating plain. The British force was disposed in two lines along one of these undulations : the foremost line occupied the brow of the eminence, and was partly pro- tected by a herjge, running from Mont St. Jean to Ohain, which gives the name to the farm of La Hnye Sainte (") ; the second stood a little way be- hind, on tiie reverse of the slope, so as to be partly sheltered from the enemy's fire. The British were sepa- rated by the shallow valley above mentioned — varying from 500 to 80O yards in breadth — from the French, who were posted on the opposite ridge. The situation of both armies was in many parts within point-blank range cf their opponent's artillery The position of the British from right to left did not much exceed a mile and a half, — " small theatre for such a tragedy;" yet on this limited front did its commander place and manoeuvre an army of 54,000 men, a remarkable instance of concentration of force. It was drawn up in a sort of curve, to suit the ground along the heights, and the right wing extended as far as Mirbe Braine. The right flank of tlie centre stood 400 yards behind t!ie house of Hougoumont (S), which was very strongly occupied ; the left of the centre was posted at a considerable distance behind the farm house of La Haye Sainte (6\ which stood nearly midway between the two armies, and was also occupied and fortified as well as its small size and the time would admit. The lefl wing reached to the farm house called Ter la Haye. The distance between the two farms of Hougoumont and La Haye Sainte is 1300 yards. The French columns could not pass between them without being exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napoleon think it prudent to leave two such posts in his rear in the H 6 136 UOLTli XXV WATERLOO. Sect. II. possession of Iiis enemy ; and his first efforts, previous to advancing against the English h'ne were to make him- self master of them. The Britisi) army remained during the whole day firm in its position ; and, formed into squares, received on this riil(je, in front, and on eacli side of the ground now occupied by the Mound, the furious charges of the French cavalry. At the time of the appearance of tlie Prussians, not a square had been l)roken or sliakcn ; they had not swerved an inch backwards, but were rather in advance of their first position. Far on the left, in the direction of Wavre, are seen the woods tlirough wiiich the Prussians first advanced to tlie battle. The Chateau of Hougoumont or Gou- mnnt (■*), about | mile from La Ilaye Sainte, is decidedly the most interest- ing spot in the field of Waterloo; not only for its importance in tlie history of the battle, but because it still ex- liibits marks of the dreadful conflict. It formed, in fact, tlie key of the British position, and the possession of it would have enabled Napoleon to turn the English flank. It was on this account that he directed his ut- most eflbrts towards it. At least 12,000 men, commanded by his bro- ther Jerome, were brought at diflf'erent times against it, and the tierce attacks continued with hardly any intermis- sion during the whole of the day. It was an old-fashioned Flemish cha- teau, with walled gardens and farm offices attached to it. Had these buildings been formed for a fortress to resist the kind of assault which they endured, they could scarcely have possessed greater advantages ; being surrounded on all sides by strong walls, which the English farther for- tified by breaking loopholes in them, through which the garrison, if it may be so called, directed the fire of their musquetry. But, notwithstanding its strength, so furious were the attacks, and so disproportionably great the number of assailants, that it could not possibly have held out, but for the bravery of the troops by whom it was maintained. Tlie orchard and garden were several times in the possession of the French, but they never succeeded in forcing the enclosures which sur- rounded the house. This little cita- del, though set on fire by the liow- itzers, and almost gutted by the flames, was bravely and judiciously main- tained to the very last by the Cold- stream Guards. Toward tlic grove the wall with mufkct holes Is pierced ; our soldiers here their station Held Against the fop, ami many were the souls The]) from their fleshly tenements expelled. Six hundretl Frenchmen have been burnt close by. And underneath one mound their bones and ashes lie. At the beginning of the battle, the house stood in the centre of a wood ; but the trees were so mutilated by cannon shot during the action, that few now remain. The old house, however, still exhibits a shattered and patched-up appearance ; and the walls of the orchard retain the loopholes formed by the English, who, by this means, converted them into a sort of battery ; whilst on the outside they present a broken surface crumbling to the touch, from the effect of the French musketry so long and vainly directed against them. In the little chapel is shown a crucifix, saved (as the peasants sayj by miracle from the flames, which, after destroying all about it, stopped on reaching the foot of the cross. It is reported that the autographs of Byron and Southey are to be discovered among the names which cover the walls. Lord Byron mentions, in one of his letters, that he went on horseback alone over the field, comparing it with his recollections of similar scenes. "As a plain, Waterloo seems marked out for the scene of some great action, though this may be mere imagination : I have viewed with attention those of Platea, Troy, Manlinea, Leuctra, Bchiuiit. ROUTE XXV. WATKKLOO. 157 CliaTonea, aiul ^larathon ; and the field around Mont St. Jean and Hou- gouinont appears to want little but a better cause, and that undefinable but impressive halo which the lapse of ages tiirows around a celebrated spot, to vie in interest with any or all of these, except, perhaps, the last men- tioned." Though it is not intended to give a full and particular history of the figlit, the following additional facts will be not inappropriately introduced liere : — The force which Napoleon brought into the field amounted, by his own confession, to nearly 75,000 men : 54,000 men composed the whole of the Duke of Wellington's army actually engaged; of these only 32,000 were British or of the German Legion. It has been often asserted, and is still believed by many, that the Duke of W'ellington was taken by surprise at Waterloo, and that he first heard the news of the advance of the French in a ball-room at Brussels. Tliis is not the fact : the intelligence was brought to the Duke by a Prus- sian officer at half- past 1 o'clock on the 15th: by two on that day orders were sent to all the divisions of the British army to break up their can- tonments, and move on the left of Quatre Bras. A proposal was made to put off the ball intended to be given by the Duchess of Richmond that evening at Brussels; but it was thought better to let it proceed, and thus to keep tlie inhabitants in igno- rance of the course of events ; the Duke therefore desired his principal officers to be present, but to take care to quit the ball-room as soon after 10 as possible ; he himself staid till 12, and set off for the army at 6 next morning. On the evening of the 17th, the Duke, having finished the disposition of his forces, rode across the country to Blucher, being unwil- ling to trust to any one the important point of concerting measures for the co-operation of the Prussians. Blucher then promised to support him early on the morrow with two divisions of his army. This fact is important, and not generally known. Tlie charger (Copenhagen) which carried the Duke on that eventful night, remained till its death, in 1836, a free pensioner in a paddock at Sbtrathfieldsaye. An- other common error respecting this battle is, that the British were on the point of being defeated when the Prussians arrived : this is sufficiently refuted by the testimony of the Prus- sian general, INIutfling, who expressly says that "the battle could have af- forded no favourable result to the enemy even if the Prussians had never come up." The Prussian army was expected to join the British at 2, but it was half past 4 before a gun was fired by them. The tactics so well and successfully employed by the Duke of W'elling- ton, are well and briefly described by the French general Vaudoncourt : — " Le Due de Wellington, ayant regu la derniere repon&e de Blucher, n'avait d'autre emploi a faire de la strategie, que celui de combaltre a pied ferme jusqu'a Tarriviie des Prussiens." {fV.M.T.) The fertility of the ground on which the battle was fought is said to have increased greatly since it took place. No where are richer crops produced in the whole of Belgium, and the corn is said to wave thickest, and to be of a darker colour, over those spots where the dead were inter- red, so that in spring it is possible to discover them by this mark alone. " But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree, Which living waves where thou didst cease to hve. And saw around mc the wide fields revive %Vith fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to con- trive. With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn'd from all she brought to those she could not bring." — I'.yron. Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, Amid this sc-cnc of slaughter as we stood Where armies had with recent fury fought. To mark how gentle Nature still pursued 15S ROUTE XXV. WATERLOO. Sect. II. Her quiet course, as if she took no care For what her noblest work had suffered there. SolTHEV. The great concourse of strangers who repair year after year to visit the scene of this memorable battle, has liad the effect of raising up in the neighbourhood a number of persons whose profession may be said to vary between that of extortioners, cheats, and beggars. The stranger is their game upon whom they prey. He is first set upon by a host of guides be- fore he reaches the ground; but they, though somewhat too violently im- portunate in proffering their services, are at least useful. He has no sooner escaped from them than he falls into the hands of the relic hunters, a nu- merous horde who infest the spot, persecuting and bothering him to buy buttons and bullets. The furrows of the plough during each succeeding spring turnup numberless melanclioly memorials of the fight — half consu- med rags, bullets corroded and shat- tered, fragments of accoutrements, bones and skulls ; but when the real articles fail, the vendors are at no loss to invent others, so that there is little fear of the supply being exhausted. Then there are so many sights ; at every step he is pestered to turn aside and look at something not worth see- ing, for which he is expected to pay handsomely; and when all this is done, he is subjected to the eloquence of beggars, a most persevering class of tormentors, who beset every path, in many instances apparently without tlie pretext of poverty. All this is very disagreeable ; it ruffles the tem- per, and tends to dispel those associa- tions which the sight of the spot would naturally call up. It is there- fore as well to be prepared for them beforehand. The part of Belgium through which our route lies, has been called the " Cock-pit" of Europe, and has been for ages the ground upon wliich the powers of Europe have decided their quairels. Besides the fields of Waterloo and Quatre Bras, through which the road passes, Wavre, Fleu- rus, Ligny, and the little village of Ramillies, where Marlborough gained one of his most famous victories over the French and Bavarians, lie within the province of Brabant, or only a short distance off" our road. l^ Genappe. — Inn, H. du Roi d'Espagne ; 19 miles from Brussels : 1 2,000 inhabitants. It was on the road, a little way out of the town, that the Prussians cap- tured the carriage of Napoleon, and nearly took him prisoner in it on the night after the battle. The road on the right leads to Ni- velles, 1 1 miles distant ; where in the Church of St. Gertrude, there are two pulpits carved by Delveaux, said to be the finest in Belgium ; one, of wood, represents Elijah in the desert j the other, of marble, the Good Sama- ritan. Jean de Nivelles is a colossal statue, which strikes the hours, on the top of a tower. About 11 miles from Gennppe is the village of Boisy, where Godfrey of Bouillon, the leader of the first crusade, was born. Tilly, 6 miles from Genappe, is the birth-place of the celebrated gene- ral of the no years' war, the oi)ponent of Gustavus Adolphus, Count Tier- clas de Tilly. Nearly three miles from Genappe our road passes Quatre Bras, so called because 4 roads, from Brussels, Char- leroi, Nivelles, and Namur, meet at this spot. An ingenious innkeeper of the place has discovered a different meaning for Quatre Bras, and kindly translates it for the benefit of the En- glish by the words " Three legs ! " Here was fought that memorable en- gagement in which the brave Duke of Brunswick fell at the head of I)is de- voted black band, two days before the battle of Waterloo (June 16. 1815). This position was considered highly important by the Duke of Wellington, as being the kev of all the roads in the Beh ROUTE XXV. NAMUR. 159 neighboiirhootl. He commanded in person during the engagement, and repulsed Maislial Ney. 13iit Blucher's defeat at Ligny, on the same day, forced him to retire upon "Waterloo. 2 Somhreffe. — The road is unin- teresting until, after crossing a small stream, it reaches the height overhang- ing Namur, which commands a fine view of its rock-built citadel and the valley of the Mcuse. 2^ Namur. — Tnns : H. de Hars- camp. " The Hotel de Harscamp is escellent, but it has the drawback of being close to a steeple which rings a loud alarum peal for -J hour every evening at 11, and every morning at 4. The traveller never fails to be woke 'en sursaut' by the latter. I have therefore avoided sleeping at Namur, but did so tliis summer, and found the result not a little disagree- able. The sounds are peculiarly loud, harsh, and grating. I suspect they must be heard, more or less distinctly, in all par'is of the town : it is the signal for closing and opening the gates." L. M. — DeBellevuej — de Flandres, both small. Capital of the province of Namur, and a strong fortress, with 19,500 inhabitants, built at the junction of the Sambre and Meuse. It possesses within it but few objects of interest, unless perhaps the traveller, calling to mind " my uncle Toby," be induced, on his account, to pay a visit to Porte St. Nicholas. Namur was taken by Louis XIV., in 1692. Racine has written an account of the siege, and Boileau celebrated its capture in a worthless ode ; it was retaken by the English imder William III. from the French, after a siege of 10 weeks, in 1695. It was in tliis memorable siege that "my uncle Toby " was sup- posed to be engaged. The Cathedral is of modem con- struction, with a Corinthian portico, built in 1767 on the site of a more ancient church. It contains the tomb of Don John of Austria, the con- queror at LepantOj who died in the camp at Bouges, a mile from Namur, in 1578, not without suspicion of poi- son from the jealousy of his brother Pliilip II. The Chtirch of St, Loup, built by the Jesuits, is as glaring within as gilding and marble can make it. It has a roof elaborately carved in stone by a brother of the order, — it may be presmned as a penance, since he was suspended by a scaffold, lying on his back, his eyes protected by a pair of glasses from the falling dust. — ( W. M. T.) There is an interesting little Museum of Natural History, containing, among otiier objects of curiosity, a perfect series of Belgian marbles, framed and named. The situation of Namur is most beautiful, and the best view is from tlie heights occupied by the commanding Citadel. Namur and Huy are among the number of for- tresses greatly strengthened since the war, under the inspection of the Duke of Wellington, and partly at the expence of Great Britain. They form part of the great barrier on the side of France ; the work of centuries to erect, at the cost of vast sums of money, and as vast an expenditure of blood. Tlie cutlery made at Namur is celebrated, and forms a considerable object of manufacture. It is said to approach nearer to the English than any made on the Continent : a com- parison of the two, however, will show how greatly inferior it is to our own. The mines of coal, iron, and marble situ.ated in the neighbourhood give employment to an industrious popu- lation. The crawfish of the Meuse are celebrated. The valley of the Meuse above Namur, towards Dinant, (Route XXX.) is even more picturesque tlian below the town. From Dinant an excursion may lie advantageously made to the very remarkable cavern of Hans on the Lesse. Its extent is vast, and the stalactites on its roof, floor, and walls most pure and beautiful. IGO ROUTE XXV. HUY. Sect. II. A diligence runs in 24 hours to Luxemburji, by an excellent new road finislied in 1827. ( Route XXIX.) Tliere are passage-boats on the Meuse between Namur anil Li^ge ; the accommodation in them is not very good ; but as they go with the stream, they are not a disagreeable conveyance. Tlie banks of the Bleuse are very pretty, but are seen nearly to the same advantage from a carriage. A dam of masonry is thrown across the Sambre at Namur, with the view of sweUing its contents into a naviga- ble canal, a design which does not appear to have quite succeeded. Namur has two bridges, over the Sambre and over the IVIeuse. Tiiey are both crossed in going to Liege. An extra quarter post is paid on quitting Namur with post horses. From the right bank of the river the view of Namur and its lofty citadel, standing on a high promontory, at whose foot the two rivers unite, is most picturesque, and the scenery continues of a most interesting character for many miles, through which the road runs by the river banks. The ]Meuse has been compared to the Wye; but it is believed that those who know both will not hesitate to give a pre- ference to the English river. The iVIeuse, how ever, alTords a pleasing mixture of cultivation and •wildness, of active industry and quiet nature, smoking steam-engines and naked and abrupt rocks, ruined castles and flourishing villages, with huge many -windowed mills and factories, which give an agreeable variety to the road. The district swarms with population all the way to Liege, and the soil is in the higliest state of cid- ture ; the lower grounds occupied by the richest corn fields and hop grounds, or tlie most verdant meadows. Tliese, with the winding river flowing between them, form the features of a pleasing landscape. The numerous quarries in tlie lime-stone clifi' along the river banks afford a very excellent marble, which is cut into blocks, and sent down the river to Holland, where it is used for flag stones, and even for finer purposes. On the opposite banks are seen the red stains of the earth which furnishes alum to numerous works. Ij- Schlayen. — At Andennes, 3 miles off, is a paper mill, belonging to INIr. Cockerill. The neighbourhood abounds in coal mines, and also pro- duces, in large quantities, the pipe clay used in making tobacco jiipes; large quantities of it were exported annually to Holland before the revo- lution. 2 Huy (pronounced We). — Inn .- The Poste, at the water side, under the castle, and close to the cathedral. Iluy has 7000 mhabitants; it is romantically situated on the Meuse, which divides it into two parts, and is traversed by an ancient stone bridge. A formidable Citadel, recently re- paired and strengthened on the most approved plans of modern fortifica- tion, under the direction of skilful English engineers, commands and defends the passage up and down the valley of the ]\Ieuse. Tlie works are partly excavated in the solid rock, and high walls of most massive masonry have been added to the natural pre- cipices on which it stands, to increase the difhculty of capture. Strangers are allowed to see the fortifications. The Cathedral, under the citadel, is approached on one side by a curious old carved gateway ; the interior is of a graceful style of Gothic, and is cer- tainly worthy of being examined. In one of the suburbs stood the abbey of Neufmoustier, founded by Peter the Hermit, the preacher of the first Crusade, who was himself buried in it. It was one of the 17 convents which existed here while the town was under the dominion of the Prince Bisho)) of Liege, though the total population at the time did not exceed 5000! At Huy the road changes from the right to the left bank of the river. The culture of the vine begins here, Belgium. ROUTE XXV. LIEGE. 161 but it produces but a poor wine. Though tlie hills are less lofty and precipitous than above Huy, the scenery continues vei-y interesting as far as 2J Choquier. Above the post house, on an elevated rock, rises the chateau of Choquier. Further on, on the opposite bank of the river, is Seraigne, once the palace of the Prince Bishop of Liege, now the colossal establishment of the en- terprising manufacturer Cockerill. The original edifice was of consider- able size, but it has been extended to thrice its former dimensions, in order to fit it for its present destination. The vast pile of building forms a lit- tle town of itself; iron and coal are extracted from mines within its walls, which also enclose a canal and rail- road leading down to the river, nu- merous furnaces, where the iron is smelted, and forges, where it is ■wrought into articles of all sorts, from penknives up to steam engines, infe- rior only to those made in England, and spinning machinery nearly as good, and much cheaper than tlie En- glish. The establishment also in- cludes a cotton factory, and a cannon foundery. The Lion, on the field of M'aterloo, was cast here. In 1836, 3000 workmen were con- stantly employed at Seraigne, in ad- dition to steam engines equivalent to SCO horse power. It would hardly be believed, but it is most certainly the fact, that at the outbreak of the Belgian Revolu- tion the workmen employed upon the premises, excited by religious or po- litical agents, were on the point of burning to the ground this establish- ment, in which many of them had been brought up, and from whence all derived tlieir daily bread ; and it required the utmost exertion on the part of IMr. Cockerill to save it from destruction. 2 Liege (Dutch, Luik ; German, Liitticii.) — Inns: Pavilion Anglais; not Very comfortable, and far from reasonable; — Aigle Noir, good ; — Pommelette, adjoining the Diligence office. I>iege lies at the junction of the Ourthe with the Meuse ; it has 58,500 inhabitants, and differs from most other Belgian towns, inasmuch as it at least appears to be thriving. The clouds of smoke usually seen from a distance hanging over it, proclaim the manu- facturing city, the Birmingham of the Low Countries ; and the dirty houses, murky atmospliere, and coal-stained streets, are the natural consequence of the branch of industry in which its inhabitants are engaged. The staple manufactory is that of fire-arms ; Liege is. in fact, one great armoury, and produces a better article, it is said, at a low price, than can be made for the same sum in Englaiid. The saddlery is also very good here, and a particular kind of coarse doth is ma- nufactured in large quantities. There is a Royal Cannon Foundery here, and Mr. Cockerill manufactures spinning machinery and steam engines to rival the English. The cause of this com- mercial prosperity is, as might be conjectured, the presence of coal in great abundance close at hand. The mines are worked npon the most sci- entific principles: some of them are situated so near to the town that their galleries are carried under the streets, so that many of the houses, and even the bed of the river, are in some i)laces undermined. Previous to the Revo- lution, Holland was supplied with coal from Belgium ; but the home consumption has since increased to such an extent, from the numerous manufactories which have sprung up on all sides, that the Belgian mines are now inadequate to supply the de- mand, and a recent law has been passed permitting the importation of coals from Newcastle. The buildings best worth notice in Liege are, the Church of St. Jaques and the interior court of the Palais dc Justice, formerly palace of the Prince Bishop, built by the Cardinal Bishop 162 ROUTE XXV. — lie(;e. Sect. II. Erard de la IMarck, 1533. The stunted pillars of the colonnade which surrounds it bear a rcsemlilance to those of the ducal palace at ^^enice, and liave a striking effect with mucli the same character as those found in works of 3Ioorisii architecture. Each pillar is carved with a different pat- tern. A visit to LI(?ge, and the mention of the Bishop and his palace, are likely to call to the mind of an Englishman the vivid scenes and descriptions of Quentin Durward. He will, how- ever, in vain endeavour to identify many of the places tiiere spoken of, with the spot. The Bishop's " Castle of Sclionwaldt, situated about 10 \ miles from the town," cannot be Seraing, as it was not built till a much later period. Sir Walter Scott never visited Liege himself, so that his localities are purely imaginary; yet, from tlie vividness of his description of the town, and the perfect consistency of all his topo- graphical details, few readers would doubt that he was personally ac- quainted with it. He has also made a slight variation in the romance from the real facts of history as far as le- lates to Liege: and as the events on which he founded the novel are of the highest interest, and serve to illustrate the story of this ancient " Imperial free city," it may not be amiss shortly to relate them. The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as Philip de Commines says, by pride and riches, gave con- stant jjroofs of their boldness and in- dependence liy acts of insubordination, and even of open rebellion ajj-ainst their liege Lord, Charles the Bold of Burgundy, and against the bishops who were his allies or sui)ported by him. He had inflicted severe chas- tisement upon the Liegois after his victory at St. Tion f when many thou- sand were left dead on the field), by abridging their privileges and taking away their banners ; and when they siibnn'ssively brought him the keys of the town, he refused to enter by the gates, but compelled them to batter down the city wall for a distance of 20 fathoms, and fill up the ditch. He then entered by the breach, with his visor down, his lance in rest, at the head of his armed bands, as a con- queror ; and further, to disable tlie bold burghi-rs from mutiny, ordered all their fortifications to be demolished. This punishinent was inflicted in 1467, but it was so little regarded, that the very next year they again broke out into open revolt, at the instigation of secret emissaries of Louis XL, seized upon tlie person of their bisiiop in his castle at Tongres, and brought him prisoner to Liege. They were headed by one John de Vilde, or Ville, called by the French Le Sauvage : it is not improbable that he was an Englishman, whose real name was JVild, and that he was one of those lawless soldiers who at that time served wherever they got best paid, changing sides whenever it suited them. . The Liegois, under this Vilde, committed many acts of cruelty, cut- ting in pieces, before the bishop's eyes, one of his attendants, and murdering IG others who were canons of the church, on the road to Liege. In Sir Walter Scott's romance, William de la Marck plays nearly the same part as Wild ; but in reality this bishop was not murdered, but succeeded soon after in making his escape. In 1482, 14 years after the events narrated in the novel, and long after the deatli of Charles the Bold, Wil- liam de la Marck, the ff'i/d Bom- of Ardennes, wisliing to obtain the mitre for his son, murdered the then Bishop of Liege, Louis de Bourbon, succes- sor of him whom Charles the Bold had supported. When tidings of the proceedings of the men of Liege were brouglit to Charles the Bold at Peronne, he imme- diately laid Louis under arrest, exactly as described in the novel, and com- pelled him to march against the rebels, at the head of his soldiers, while he Bclo-ium. ROUTE XXV. LIEGE. 163 led on his own Burgundians, Louis showed little hesitation to comply with the proposal, though the citizens were his allies, and he had in fact fo- mented the rebellion. Nothing, how- ever, appears to have damped the cou- rage of the Liegeois : they made three separate sallies out of their breaches and over their ruined walls. They were led on by the same Vilde, who in one of these attacks was slain, but not before he had laid low many of the bravest among the Burgundian guards. Their last sally was planned at a moment when the invading forces, tired out with long watching, had taken off their armour and retired to rest, pre- vious to the grand assaidt on the town which Charles and Louis had arranged for the following morning. Tlie fore- most in tliis enterprise were 600 men from a town called Franchimont, on the road between Liege and Spa, firm allies of the citizens, and considered their bravest soldiers. Like the Spar- tans and Romans of old, these 600 de- voted themselves to the enterprise of seizing or slaying the two princes, as they lay in tlieir quarters before the town, or agreed to perish in the at- tempt. About midnight the Scotch archers and Burgundian guards, at- tached to the persons of the 2 sove- reigns, were roused by a terrible alarm of the enemy, wlio had pene- trated almost up to the two houses in which the princes were lodged with- out discovery. The attack was so sudden, and the confusion which en- sued so much augmented by the jea- lousy which subsisted between the Duke and the King, each believing the other to be concerned in the plot, that the enterprise had nearly succeeded. But having recovered from the sur- prise and hastily put on their armour, they succeeded at last, with the aid of theirguards, in driving back the assail- ants, and the brave men of Fninchimont were for the most part cut to pieces. The next day the city was stormed, as intended; but the invaders foimd less resistance than was expected. It appeared that the citizens liad supposed themselves secure on that day, I)ecause it was Sunday, and were taking some rest after tlie exertions of the preced- ing night. So unsuspicious were they indeed, that the besiegers found the cloth laid in almost every house which they entered, as it happened to be dinner time. IMany were slaughtered at once to appease the vengeance of Cliarles ; a great number fled to the woods, only to perish there of cold. The city was condemned by him to destruction ; and no sooner had he quitted it, than it was set on fire in three places, and all the buildings, except churches or convents, burnt to the ground. These events took place in 1468 ; before that time the number of inha- bitants exceeded 1 '20,000. In the square in front of the Bishop's palace stood the cathedral of St. Lambert. It was utterly destroyed by the fury of the French revolutionists, and no traces of it now remain. St. Jacques is the finest of the ex- isting churches; the arches are ele- gantly fringed ; it possesses wide win- dows (filled with painted glass,) elegantly miillioned ; network .screens; reeded pillars, branching into rich tracery, studded with embossed orna- ments, containing vvithin them gay arabascoes, medallions of saints, sove- reigns, and prelates innumerable, all most gorgeously yet harmoniously painted and gilt. — Hope. This church was finished in 1.513. The Church of St. Croix on the height is in the trans- ition style, with round and pointed arches. None of the others are par- ticularly remarkable, nor is the Hotel de Ville a striking edifice. The University is a handsome new building, erected by the King of Hol- land in 1817. It contains a Mu- seum, which, though not very com- plete or well arranged, jjossesscs some objects of interest, as illustrating the natural history of this part of Bel- gium ; such as the collection of fossil bones fiom this and the neighbouring 161 ROUTE XXV. — LIEGE. Sect. II. provinces. " Near Li^ge there are nu- merous caverns, wliicli liave acquired celebrity from tlie abundant and re- markable animal remains they liave afforded, and the interest attached to them is heightened by the discovery of luiman bones and skulls in the same cave with bones of bears, hyicnas, the elephant, and rhinoceros. It would appear, however, that the remains of man were introduced at a later period than those of the animals. The prin- cipal caves are those of Engis, Cho- kier, Ramioul, Engihoul, Huy, Fens de Foret, Goffontaine." {T. T.) A Hotanic Garden well stored witli plants, and beautifully kept, is attached to the university. There are 17 professors here, who lecture to about 500 students in the various faculties. The bridge over the river, called Pont fie VArche, commands a fine view, but a more extensive prospect may be obtained from the heights above the town, especially from the old citadel on Mount St. Walburg, on the left bank of the Meuse. An- other good point of view is the Fort Chartreuse, an eminence on the oppo- site side of tlie valley. The junction of the 3 valleys of the Meuse, Ourthe, and Vesdre, close to Liege, forms a landscape of no ordinary beauty. Outside the walls, in the convent of St. William, is the grave of Sir John Mandeville, the English tra- vcller. Gretry, the composer, was born here ; a bust of him has been set up in a square called after him Place Gretry. " The florist should visit ZNIacqua's garden near Lic'ge, one of the most celebrated in IJelgium." — P. The language sjjoken by the lower orders hereabouts is the Walloon, a dialect diflering from the French and German, as well as the Flemish, but said to resemble the old French of the Xlllth century. The Walloons, like the Swiss, served in former times in the armies of Spain, Austria, and France ; they were generally enrolled into cavalry regiments: a regiment of 700 men composed the standing army or rather body-guard of the Eccle- siastical Princes of Li^ge. The German emperors, as early as tlie Xth century, raised the bishops of Liege to the rank of sovereign and independent princes, and be- stowed territory upon them which they held as a fief of the empire. Their government was never strong, and the history of Li^gc is little better than a narrative of a succession of bloody revolutions, exhibiting a po- pulace unbridled, discontented, and striving after freedom and power, struggling with a despotic and often incompetent ruler. Liege, neverthe- less, remained under the dominion of its bishops down to the time of the French invasion, 1794. It is recorded that one of them had the audacity to declare war against Louis XIV. ; for which temerity he was chastised by having the town bombarded about his ears for 5 days by Marshal Boufflers in 1691. Conveyances. — Diligences go daily from Liege to Aix la Chnpelle, Spa, Chaud Fontaine, Brussels, &c. Ilerstal, the residence of Pepin le Gros, Maire du Palais, is about 3 miles from Lic'-ge. An excursion to Spa and Chaud Fontaine, described a little .'arther on, may be conveniently made from Liege. The passage boat from Liege to Namur, ascending the Meuse, is a tedious conveyance. An extra \ post is paid on quitting Liege with jjost-horses. The Great Belgian Railroad (§20.) from Antwerp to Cologne passes close to Liege. It will be carried down from the brow of the heights of Ans, which bound the valley of tlie Meuse on the N. by two inclined planes, nearly to the level of the river, and is then conducted across it by a lofty bridge, a little way above the town. It afterwards follows nearly the same Belgiui ROUTE XXV. SPA. 165 line as the high road as far as Verviers, crossing the Vesdre by 1 7 bridges. From Liege to Aix la Chapelle the traveller has the choice of 2 routes. The nearest road is by Baitice. (See Route XXVI.) "VVe shall prefer the longer, but more interesting road, by Verviers, along the .ngreeable val- ley of the Vesdre (the s is pronounced in this word), and through the pretty watering place of Chaud Fontaine. It avoids the hills over wliich the old line was carried. It likewise passes at no great distance from Spa, — a description of which is given a little further on. The road on quitting Liege ascends by the side of the Ourthe as far as its junction with the Vesdre, which it crosses by a bridge, and then follows tlie windings of the stream all the way to Verviers, crossing it several times. Though the scenery of the valley does not exactly, equal that of the Meuse, it is exceedingly pretty, and is enlivened by neat villas and gardens, interspersed with orchards and green pastures, and by several large manufactories, principally of cloth. About 5 miles from Liege is; Chaud Fontaine. — Inn: H. des £ains, a large bathing-establishment, frequented on account of the waters. The hot sprmg, which supplies the baths, rises in an island in the midst of the Vesdre. The water is pumped lip by a large wheel turned by the streain. Tills little village is a favourite SundayVesort of the Liegois: its situa- tion is charming, and the wooded heights which enclose it abound in shady walks, leading to points of extensive view when the summit is reached. ii^ Fraipont. Excursion to Spa. *^* It may be premised, tliat tra- vellers pressed for time, and wishing to make the best use of it, will hardly be rewarded in turning out of their road to visit Spa: as a watering-place it is much fallen off, and its scenery is very inferior to that of the Rhine. The distance from Fraipont to Spa is 2^ posts, and from Spa to Verviers, 2^ posts. At the village of Pepinsterre, be- tween 3 and 4 miles beyond Fraipont, a road on the right leads to Spa, along another valley equally pleasing with that of the Vesdre, clothed with mea- dows of the brightest verdure, and enlivened by many country-houses, belonging principally to the manufac- turers of Verviers. Long lines of cloth hung out in the sun proclaim the staple manufacture of the district. A little beyond the village of Theux, famous for its quarries of black mar- ble, is the castle of Franchimont. During the siege of Liege by Charles the Bold and Louis XI., 600 inha- bitants of this place banded themselves together with the design of seizing the persons of those two monarchs as they lay encamped before the walls. They failed in their bold attempt, as has been already rel.ited, and paid for their heroism with their lives. An inscription on the face of the rock, by the road side, still keeps alive the re- collection of the deed. At the end of an avenue of lime- trees, 2 miles long, lies 2| Spa. — Inns ■■ H. de York, which is considered to atJbrd the most com- fortable lodgings; the table d'hote is also good. — H.de Flandre has the best table d'hote, and is an excellent house in other respects. — H.deOrange belongs to the owner of the York. 5 t'f. a day are usually paid for a very good room at any of these inns. Dinner at the table d'hote costs 3 fr. j but when several travel together, or where persons take up their residence for some time, an abatement is made in the charges. In 1835, a party of 4 persons paid for 3 good rooms and a saloon 14 fr. a day. Breakfast costs 25 sous ; din- ner served in private, 3 fr. ; a bottle of Bourdeaux wine, 4 fr. Servants are fed at 4 francs a day. 166 ROUTE XXV. SPA. Sect. II. H. dc Pays Bas is cheaper than tliese, but the company is not so select. Many more inns might be enume- rated. The little town is in fact almost made up of inns and lodging-liouses, many of which are shut up in winter. The number of permanent inhabit- ants is said to be 3000. Spa is very prettily situated in a sort of semi-basin, in tlie midst of mountains forming part of the Ar- dennes Chain ; the heights overhang- ing it are covered with shrubberies, and intersected by healthful and airy walks, with pleasing prospects at in- tervals. A large part of the town is built close under the rocks, which, so far from holding out any encourage- ment to this near approximation, have on several occasions given the inhabit- ants a warning to keep at a respect- ful distance, by overvviielming tiieir dwellings with vast masses of stone detached from above. At the present time several houses near the Prome- nade de Sept Heures remain either wholly or partly buried amidst heaps of debris, occasioned by a slide of part of the mountain. The hint has not al- together been attended to ; the roofs shattered by the falling of rocks have been repaired, and the houses again tenanted, though exposed constantly to a recurrence of the danger. The principal spring, called the Ponhon (pouher, in Walloon, is the same as puiser, to draw), is situated in the centre of the town under a colonnade built by Peter the Great, in gratitude for tiie benefit which he de- rived from it. The building contains a sort of pump-room, in which people can walk, in rainy weather. From this spring com.es the S|)a water, which is sent to the ends of the earth for the benefit of invalids at a distance. It is an admirable tonic, good for nervous and bilious disorders. It owes its medical properties to the iron with which it is impregnated in greater quantity than any other s|)riiig known ; while the superabundance of carbonic acid in it renders it agreeable to drink, capable of being transported to groat distances, and of being preserved in bottles for a long period without in- jury. Not many yards from this spring is the liedoute, a handsome building, which includes under one roof a cafe, a theatre, ball-room, and ganibling- 1 rooms, where rouge et noir, roulette, and similar games are carried on nearly from morning to night. On Saturday \ a ball is given here during the season. I In former times the gaming-houses ' belonged to the Bishop of Liege, who was a partner in the concern, and I derived a considerable revenue from his share in the ill-gotten gains of the ' manager of the establishment, and no gambling tables could be set up without his jiermission. " The' per- I tinacity of the then reigning bishop in refusing this privilege to tlie Sieur I le Voz, who had constriicted a new j suite of rooms in 1789, gave rise to an insurrection, which drew Spa, and afterwards Liege, into the vortex of the first revolution." — 11. M. T. It ' is rather remarkable that the hand- some edifice called Vaushall, built as a second Redoute, and much fre- quented in former times, though now ' abandoned, is at i)rescnt used as a i church, where the English service is performed on Sundays for the benefit of the English residents. A bookseller, near the Pouhon,has a reading-room, where " The Times "and one or two other English papers are taken in. A list is published weekly of all the arrivals in Spa ; a large pro- portion of the names are English. Spa has, however, of late much fallen off in the number as well as rank of its visiters. It is, in fact, out of fashion. Since 1834 the English have de- serted it for the Brunnen of Nassau, which far surpass Spa in their situ- ation, and have another advantage in their near neighbourhood to the beau- ties of the Rhine, in a district which offers excursions almost without end. During the time that Spa was the first watering-place in Europe, mon- archs were as plentiful as weavers Bel"ium. ROUTE XXV. SPA. 167 from Verviers now are at the springs ; and more than once a coni^ress of crowned heads has met here for sana- tory, not for political, purposes. Charles ^ II. visited the spot while in exile ; : and Peter the Great repaired hither repeatedly. j The Buths are in a building sepa- rated from the Spring; they belong to . the town. A bath costs a florin. The otiier mineral springs besides , the Pouhon are all situated out of the town, at a distance of Lctuecn 2 and 3 miles from it. The principal are, 1. The Gheronstere ; it is very beauti- fully situated. 2. The Sauveniere, on the road to Malmedy, in a little plan- tation of trees. 3. Gruesbeck, not far from the Sauveniere. 4. The Tunne- hts, so called beciiuse the water was first collected in little tubs. There are baths attached to this spring. Tlie daily routine at Spa is nearly as follows: — People begin the day with a preparatory glass at the Poulion, to which they repair t« dishabille, in their dressing-gowns, about 6 or 7 o'clock ; after which they proceed, ge- nerally on horseback or in carriages, to the springs out of the town. Attached to almost all of them is a building corresponding to a pump- room, and they are surrounded with pleasure-grounds and walks, where a band of music is stationed, while the drinkers make their promenade to and fro till about 9 o'clock. At that hour the company return home, dress, and breakfast. As early as 11 in the morning the fatal Redoute opens, but there are the more healthy plea- sures of exploring the walks and lides of the neighbourhood for such as do not patronise the gaming-table. It is the custom here for every body to ride on horseback. There are a great many ponies for hire ; when a visiter finds out a tolerable one, he had better engage it for tlie whole period of his stay. The hire of a pony for the whole day is 5 or 6 francs, and 2 or 3 are paid to go to and return from the springs in the morning. A carriage for making the tour of the springs costs 8 fr. The dinner hour at the tables d'hote is 2 or 3 o'clock. Spa is famous for a peculiar manu- factory of wooden toys, somewliat like the Tunbridge ware. The wood of which they are formed is stained by being steeped in the mineral waters. They are decorated with paintings of flowers, &c.; employ a consider- able number of hands, and some artists of no mean skill. There are two walks in the town, called the Promenades de Qitatre Heures, and de Sept Heures, from the time of the day \\hen they are fre- quented. Less monotonous are the winding-patlis up the heights over- looking the town. One of the walks near Spa is called the Colline de Lu- bin et Annette. The story of these two lovers is not an invention of IMarmontel, but a true history of two peasants, cousins, and natives of the neighbourhood of Spa. These two young persons, left together as orphans at a very early age, fell in love with one another, and formed a secret attachment, perfectly ignorant that the Romish Church had declared the imion of persons so nearly related to be a crime. They persevered in believing their union to be valid ; and it is said, that the Pope, when he heard their story, gave them a dispensation to legalise the marriage. Tlieir cottage, built for them by an Englishman, stood till the end of the last century, near the road leading to the fountain of tlie Tonnelets. Tiie Cascade de Coo, about 9 miles off, is one of the customary excursions of the visiters at Spa. Another is the ride to Montjardin, an old castle on the top of an escarped rock, still inhabited, and surrounded by gardens. Not far distant is the little village of Ambleve ; and overhanging it the scanty ruins of another old castle,called by the country jjeople Us Quatre fits \ Aymon (named after these preux che- valiers of the middle ages) ; thoug 1G8 ROUTE XXV. — SPA. Sect. II. reiUiccd to a few broken walls, there- collection of tlie okl ri-niance gives an interest to it. It is likewise interest- ing as tlie residence of William de la ]\Iarck,tlie Boar of Ardennes, so called for the ferocity of his disposition, which has, however, been somewhat exaggerated by Sir Walter Scott, in the novel of Quentin Durvvard. He indeed slew the archbishop, but not in cold blood and at his own table, but in open fight with arms in his liands, before the gates of Liege, in 1482. Some subterranean apartments, cut in the rock beneath the castle, are curious. A different road may be taken in returning to Spa, by Adseux, near which a river precipitates itself into a natural arch or cavern, and thence to Haut Beaumoiint (or Ilode- boraont). According to the notions of the peasantry, this and other caves of the coiiniry are haunted by spirits ; they call them Trous des Sotais. The limestone mountains, which composethechainof Ardennes,abound in natural caverns. One of these is found near Spa, at a place called Rcinovchumps. In lS3-4an English- man discovered, by breaking through the rocky floor of this grotto, another cavern, even more extensive than the first. It contains some tine stalac- tites, but the views and descriptions published of it are on the whole ex- aggerated. The distance from Spa to the cave is about 9 miles, over a very stony cross-road, which will be difficult to find without the aid of a guide. It passes the village of La lleid up se- veral steep hills, and across a wild heath, and thence descends into a rugged ravine, in which lie the cave and village of Hemouchamps. At the little inn of the place the visiter is provided with a blouse to keep his dress clean, witli candles, and a guide. The entrance is closed by a door, the keys of which are kept in the village, and it is shown for the beiu-lit oi' the commune. The path is wet and slip- pery. The grotto is traversed by a stream, which is supposed to be the same as that which buries itself in tlie ground near Adseux, and wliich must pursue a subterranean course of some miles before it arrives at Hemou- champs. The rock in which tiiis cave is situated is that called by geologists the mountain limestone. It alternates with clay slate. The traveller may proceed at once from the Spa to the Rliine by way of Malmedy (Route XLIII.) and Treves, and thencedescend thelMoselle to Cohlenz ; or he may post from jNIalmedy to Prum, and there turning aside explore the Eifel and its extinct volcanoes (Route XLIV. ), and de- scend upon the most beautiful part of the INIoselle, near the baths of Bertrich. By the first route it would take about 6 days to reach Coblenz, and by the second about 4 days. The borders of the Moselle abound in objects of in- terest, coinbining picturesque scenery, wonderfid geological phenomena, and remarkable Roman remains. In going from Spa to Verviers by the post road, we are compelled to retrace our steps as far as Pepinsterre. Route from Liege to Aix continued. li Vervieus — Inns : H. de Flan- dres; — de I'Empereur; — des Pays- Bas. On the Vesdre : its population already amounts to 20,000 inhabit- ants; an instance of recent and rapid growth, chiefly owing to the flourish- ing state of its cloth manufactories, which are said to produce second-rate fabrics cheaper and better than those of England and France. 'I'hey em- ploy a great many hands ; the cloth is exported to Germany and Italy, and formerly was consumed in large quantities by Holland. Tlie Belgian army is clothed from the looms of Verviers. The water of the Vesdre is said to possess properties whicli fit it admirably for dyeing. Ik'twcen Verviers and the Prussian frontiers, on an eminence a little to the right of the road, stands LniKiiitr., formerly capital of the duchy of Lim- Belgium, route XXVI. — Brussels to aix la chapelle. 169 burg, now united to the province of Liege. The town, once tiourishing and strongly fortified, is much reduced. Its outworks were blown up by the French in the time of Louis XIV., and various calamities of war and fire have made it little better than a heap of ruins. Even so late as 18:5:5-4, a fire consumed -10 houses and a church. The Church of St. George is said to be a handsome edifice. There are mines of zinc and coal in the neighbourhood. The frontier of Belgium and I'rus- sia is crossed at 1^ Eui'EN. — Inn: H. de Berlin. A manufacturing town of 10,000 in- habitants. Passports are here examined and signed, and the baggage of travellers searched at the custom-house. (§ 4'2, 43.) Immediately on entering Prussia the road undergoes a ])erceplible im- provement, being macadamised, plant- ed witii trees on eadi side, and very well kept. The view of Aix, on approaching it, and of tlie town of Borcette on the right, is very pleasing. 2^ Aix la Chapelle. — (See Route XXXVI.) ROUTE XXVL BRUSSELS TO AIX LA CHAPELLE, BY LOUVAIN, LIe'gE, AND BATTICES. Posts. Cortenberg - Louvain in or, Tervueren - I..ouvain Tirleniont St. Trond - St. Orey Li<5gc - Battices 2i 2i Aix la Chapelle H Eng. Miles. 151 11 II 11 H J2 14i 16\ Diligences go daily in about 19 hours. By the rail-road, the journey to Liege requires only ti hours. There are 2 roads from Brussels to Louvain : 1. by Cortenberg, passing the village of St. Josse te noode (St. Joseph in need), and a little inn or guinguette called bet Scliapraatje, from which there is a line view of Brussels. About 6 miles from Brus- sels the spire of the village church of Saventhem is seen on the left of the road, from which it is a mile distant. An admirable painting by Vandyke, to which the following story is attached, was restored to the church from the Louvre in 1817: — Vandyke, having made great progress under his master, Rubens, was advised by him to go to Italy, and partly furnislieJ by him with means to complete his studies there. He set out, with the best intentions of devoting himself entirely to his art, on a white horse given him by Rubens ; but had only proceeded thus far on his journey when he unluckily fell in love with a young girl of Saventham, and there foolishly lost his time and money in pursuit of his passion. To show his devotion to her, and to comply witli her request, he painted 2 pictures for the parish church; one, a Holy Family, in which he introduced portraits of his mistress and her parents, is lost ; the other, in which he has represented himself as St. Martin, riding on the white horse given him by Rubens, still remains. Tidings of the truant soon reached the cars of his master, who sought him out, represented to him the folly of sacrificing his future prospects of fame and success to an obscure amour, and with some difficulty per- suaded him to tear himself away. 1^ Cortenberg. I'he other road passes through L\ Tervueren — (Inns, Le Renar and I'Empereur,) — where there is Summer Palace of the prince o Orange. It was the gift of the nation to their Prince, in gratitude for the bravery which he had displayed in the battle of Waterloo. It had not been long finished when the revolution broke out. and its owner was deprived no ROUTE XXVI. LOUVAIN. Belgium. of the enjoyment of this resilience, which displays a great deal of taste as well as splendour. Its extent is not great, and there are no paintings of note in it, but it is a very elegantly fitted-up palazzo, with gardens in the Italian style around it, and forms a pleasant excursion of about 8 miles from Brussels. Outside the walls of Louvain took place the memerable engagement of August, 1831, between the Dutch and Belgians, in which the latter, com- manded by Leopold in person, ob- tained the name of Braves Bdyes, by running away and abandoning their king, w ho narrowly escaped falling into the hands of the Prince of Orange. 11 Louvain. (Flemish Loven, German Lowen. ) — Inns: Hotel de Suede, good and moderate ; dinner in private 3 fr. and other charges in pro- portion. — CourdeMons; — Aiglenoir. Louvain, on the Dyle, with '26,000 inhabitants, is a city of very ancient origin : some have attributed its foun- dation to Julius Cassar ; and the old ruined castle, without the walls, on the side of Mechlin, still goes by the name of Chateau de Cesar, though it did not exist till 890, when the Em- peror Arnold caused it to be built as a barrier against the invasion of the Normans. A high earthen rampart encloses the town on one side, and is cut through by the roads to Brussels and IMechlin. It lias a deep dry fosse on the outside, and is from 80 to 100 ft. high. The ruined bastions and casemates are probably the works of the Spaniards. It is recorded that Edward III. of England lived for one year in the castle, and that the Emperor Charles V, was brought up in it. The citi- zens used to assert that their town had never been taken by un enemy, though often besieged. General Klebcr, how- ever, at Ihe head of the revolutionary lorces of Trance, put an end to the boast, by making himself master of the place in 1792. Tlic IlCld de rule is not onl^ the most remarkable object here, but one of the richest and most beau- tiful gothic buildings in the world. Every part of the exterior is decorated with the most elaborate labour of the chisel. It was finished in 1463. It has recently been repaired at the joint expense of the town and government. The delicate and rich masonry of the exterior, which had suffered from time and the weather, has been renovated entirely. The decayed stones are re- moved one by one, a mould of pipe- clay is formed on each ; a plaster cast, taken from this, serves as a model to the masons, who supply the defici- encies in a slyle consistent with the original design, — and at least equal to the ancient workmanship. " The stone employed is obtained from France : it is nearly as soft as pipe-clay when first quarried, but hardens upon exposure to the air; and, to give it still greater consistency, is saturated with a preparation of oil. The subjects of several of the reliefs are the sins and their punishments ; and some are more remarkable for their force than their delicacy." — jr. M. T. The pictures within the Town Hall are generally of little con- sequence : a few are curious from their antiquity. The Cathedral of St. Peter, near to the Town Hall, is also worth seeing. It was founded in 1040; but, having been twice destroyed by fire, it is probable the existing building is not older than 1358. It was originally surmounted by a steeple of the extra- ordinary height of 533 ft., which was blown down in 1C04. A model of it is preserved in the Town Hall. This church contains, among several nameless pictiues of the old Flemish school, an altar-piece in two com- jiartments, by Hemling — the Mar- tyrdom of St. Erasmus, a liorriblc subject, but treated with great pro- priety by the painter ; and the Last Sujjper, a work of high merit. A Holy Family, by Quentin Mutsi/s, at the back of the high altar, is con- Belo I. ROUTE XXVI. LOUVAIN. TIKLEMONT. 171 sidered the great ornament of the church : it was carried to Paris during the Revolution. A third picture (artist unknown) represents a cook ■with his apron on, chosen bishop, in consequence of tlie miraculous descent of a dove upon his head. In the foreground he appears to refuse the mitre ; but behind, preparations are making for his installation. Sir Joshua Reynolds says of it, " It is a compo- sition of near a hundred figures, many in good attitudes, natural and %vell-invented. It is much more in- teresting to look at the works of these old masters, than slight common-place pictures of many modern painters." The pulpit of wood, skilfully carved, represents St. Peter on a rock, and the conversion of St. Paul. A beau- tiful Gothic loft, between the choir and nave, and an elaborate tabernacle of sculptured stone to contain tiie host, are also among the curiosities of this church. TIte University, sui)i)ressed by the French, was re-established by the King of Holland in 1817. There are about 400 students. In the XVIth century it was considered the first university in Europe, and was espe- cially distinguished as a school of Catholic theology. It was then fre- quented by 6000 students. There were formerly 43 colleges, ■variously endowed by pious founders, dependent upon the University : of these only about 20 now remain, and their fiu'ids have been much reduced. The Library of the University, ori- ginally the Guildhall, or Halle, of the weavers, erected in 1317, was appro- priated to the service of learning, after its first owners were banished for their refractory conduct. It still exhii)its traces of the opulence and taste of its founders : being richly decorated witli antique carvings in wood, and well ■worth inspecting. The cabinet of paintings, chiefly Dutch and Flemish, belonging to M. van der Schrick, deserves notice The Tower of Jansenius, in which that celebrated theological writer com- posed the works which gave rise to those novel doctrines of grace and free-will, named after their author Jansenism, exists no longer. All the sights of Lou vain may easily be viewed within a day ; and there is no inducement to remain longer ; as the city has a solitary and deserted aspect, the more striking when con- trasted with its ancient prosperity and swarming population. Its walls, now in part turned into boulevards, measured 7 miles in circumference, and in the XlVth century its inha- bitants amounted to 200,000. Nearly half of them lived by the cloth and woollen manufactures established here. The weavers here, however, as elsewhere, were a turbulent race ; and their rulers, being tyrannical and impolitic, banished, in 1382, a large number of them from the town, in consequence of a tumult in which they had taken part, and during which they had thrown 1 7 of the magistrates out of the windows of the town- house. IMany of the exiles took re- fuge in England, bringing v.ith them their industry and independence; and, very much to the advantage of our coxmtry, established in it those wool- len manufactures which have left all others in the world far behind. Louvain is famed at present for brewing the best beer in all Belgium. 200,000 casks are made here annu« ally : a great deal is exported. The great Belgian Bailroud con- nects Louvain with Antwerp, and is continued to Liege, in a direction nearly parallel with the high road as farasTirlemont,whereitdivergesfrom it, and, leaving St. Trond far on the left, proceeds by Waremnie to Liege. 2^ Tirlemont. (Dutch , Thiencn. ) — Inn: Le Plat d'Etain tolerable. A town of 8500 inhabitants; it was for- merly much more considerable than at present. In the centre of it is a very large square. Outside the gate lead- ing to 3Iacstricht are 3 large bar- rows, supposed to be the graves of I 2 172 XXVII. — BRUSSELS TO AIX LA CIIAPELLE. SeCt. IL s( me barbarian peojjle in very remote times. 2J St. Trond Inn: L' Homme Sauvage ; clean and comfortable. A town of 8000 inhabitants, re- ceiving its name from a saint named Trudon, who founded a monastery here, and gained great fame by the working of miracles. At Brustem, near this, a great battle was fought, in 1467, between Charles tlic Bold and his rebellious subjects of Liege. 3000 of them, who liad posted themselves in the town, were compelled to sur- render it to Charles, to destroy the gates and ramparts, and to deliver up to him 10 of their number, whom he cruelly caused to be beheaded. The most direct road from Brus- sels to Aix la Chapelle is through Macstricht (Route XXVII.); but, v.bile the political arrangements be- tween Holland and Belgium remain unsettled, travellers are not allowed to pa^^s through INIaestricht, because it is a Dutch fortress. They are therefore compelled to turn off' at St. Trond to 2\ St. Orey. The road is unin- teresting until it reaches the brow of the hill overlooking the valley of the INIeuse, and the town cf Liege lying in the bottom of it. Tne railroad was completed, in 1838, as far as Ans on the top of this height. It is intended to be carried down to the level of tlic ]Meuse by two inclined planes. 2^ Liege, in Route XXV. The most agreeable route from I^irge to Aix la Chapelle is tliat .along the vale of tiie Vesdre (Route XXV.) and when the railroad, which is about to be carried througli it, is completed, it will also be tlie mo>t expeditious. At present the following by Battice is the sliortcst. Being hilly, it occupies nearly 6 hours posting. This road is paved nearly the wliole way. On quitting Liege j it .Hbcends the steep lieights of the , Cliaitreuse, surmounted by fortifica- tions, and commanding a line view : it then passes several industrious little towns, such as Argenteau and Herve, a considerable town, where the Hotel d'Autriche is a clean inn, but small. It continues along an elevated ridge, overlooking a rich and well cultivated country, sloping down on one side to the vale of the Vesdre, and north- wards to the valley of the Meuse, and commands a very distant view of the town of Macstricht. 2\ Battice. The frontier is crossed at Henri Chapelle, where baggage and pass- ports are examined on entering the Prussian territory. (§ 42, 43.) 3. Aix LA Chapelle. (Route XXXVI.) ROUTE XXVIL BRUSSELS TO AIX LA CHAPELLE Br LOUVAIN AND JIAESTRICHT. Posts. Eng. Miles. Cortenberg Louvain if} 15^ Tirlemout - 2J =11 St. Trond - 2^ =11 Tongres - 2i =12 INIaestricht 93 German Jliles. "Wittem - 2^ =11 Aix la Chapelle 2 = 9^ The total distance is about 80^ Eng. miles. The journey takes up 17 hours by diligence. As far as St. Trond tlie route is described in Route XXVI. 2i Tongres. — Inn : Paon. A very ancient city, of 4500 inha- bitants. The principal church, a Gothic edifice, was the first dedicated to the Vii-gin on this side of the Alps. Near the town there exists a mine- ral spring, mentioned by Pliny in these words : — " Tungri, civitas Galliae, fontem habct insignem, plu- ribus bullis stillantem, ferruginei sajjoris quod ipsum non nisi in fine polus intelligitur. Purgat hie cor- l)ora, tcrtianas febres discutit, calcu- loriun(jue vitia. Eadem aqua igno admoto turbida fit ac postea rubescit." Behrjum. ROUTE XXVIII. — Calais to namur. 173 It still retains its ancient properties, answering exactly to tlie description. The Tungri, according to Tacitus, were the first German tribe, who crossing the Rhine, expelled the Gauls, and settled themselves in their country. Beyond Tongres the road is bad. 2i Maestricht. — Inns: Lcvrier (Greyhound) — Helm (Helmet) — Halfmoon. jMaestricht, the capital of tiie pro- vince of Limburg, has 22,000 inha- bitants. It lies on the Maes, and is united by a bridge to the suburb called Wyk. It is a strong fortress, and, together with Venloo and Roer- mcnde, still belongs to the King of Holland, having been ceded to him by the treaty of 1831 : it is numerously garrisoned by Dutch troops. It was called by the Romans Trajectus su- perior (the upper ford). The great strength of this town has subjected its inhabitants to the misery of numerous sieges. Among the most memorable was that of 1579, when the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, surprised and took it by assault ; the garrison was put to the sword, and nearly 8000 of the towns- people massacred to satisfy Spanish vengeance. It was taken by Louis XIV,; but William III. of Eng- land failed before it. There are few cities in Europe better fortified. There is an arsenal and a military magazine in the town. The Stadhuis, in the centre of the great INIarket-place, is a handsome building, but in a modern style of architecture (date 1652). TheChurch of St. Servais is the only other public building possessing any claim to ad- miration. The most remarkable thing about Maestricht are the subterranean quar- ries under the hill called the Peters- herg, on which the Citadel stands. Some of the passages are wide enough to admit horses and carts. They are said to extend 12 miles in length, and 4 in breadth, and a large part are now rarely explored. The galle- ries cross and intersect each other so as to render it exceedingly difficult to find the way out ; and it is dane caverns. The rock is a soft yellowish stone, not unlike chalk, and of the same geological age. It abounds in marine fossil remains. Besides shells and crabs, large turtles are found in it, together with the bones of a "-i- gantic lizard-like reptile, more than 20 ft. long, called the fossil Monitor. Some of these relics of animals which do not now exist on the earth may be seen at Maestricht. The caverns are very cold. The view from tlie sum- mit of the Petersberg is fine. A stone bridge across the Meuse leads from ]\Iaestricht to the suburb of Wvk. The road then passes several incon- siderable places to 2\ Wiitem About a mile beyond Bocholz is the frontier of Prussia. (§ 42, 43.) 2 AlX LA CHAPELLE.(Rt.XXXVI.) ROUTE XXVIII. CALAIS TO NAJIUR, BY TPRKS, TOUR- NAY, MONS, AND CHARLEROI. The shortest route from Calais to the Rhine is by Lille, Tournay, and the latter part of this route. Travellers, who know the road from Calais by Lille, may like to vary the journey, by pursuing the first part of the following route by Ypres and Courtray. The best resting places are Ypres, Cour- tray, and Tournay. There is no good inn at Charleroi. It is a post road, but paved almost the whole way, and in this respect dis- agreeable. 34J posts == 164J Eng. miles. 21 Gravel ines "1 2i Dunkirk ( r Bergues f li""'^ ^^'• 1^ Rousbrugge J I 3 17 i ROUTE XXIX. — NAMUR TO LUXEMBURG. SeCt. II. } 2? Ypres 2\ IMeniti \- Route XV. \\ Courtray 2 Pecque, a new station. 1^ Tournay, Route XIV. 2^ Bury 2| Hornu "1 ^^^^^^ XXXII. \\ Mons J 1? Biaye (J post of fiivour). ]^ Andeilys. Tbe canal which enters tlie Sambre, a mile or two above Charleroi, has been lately finished: it unites the Sambre with the Scheldt, passing by Brussels. liCHAULEROi — Imis: H. desPays Bas ; la Poste ; neitlier to be recom- mended. Cliarleroi is a fortress on the Sambre, strengthened under the direction of the Duke of Wellington since the late war. It is also a manu- facturing town, and has 4G00 inha- bitants. Tiiere are extensive iron furnaces at Couliers, near this. The surrounding district abounds in coal, and the road to Sombreffe passes by numerous coal pits. The road is carried along a high ridge througli the village of Fleurus, whicli gives a name to the victory gained here by the French over the Austrians in 1794. The same fields were witness to the repulse of the Prussians, under Blucher, by Buona- parte, wlio drove them, after an obsti- nate resistance, from their position at Ligny, a village 2 miles further on the (/.) of the road to SombreUe: tliis occurred two days before the battle of Waterloo. Two other battles had been fought on nearly the same ground in \G22 and 1G90. 3 Sombrefle, on the high road from Brussels to Naniur, route XXV. 2| Namur. ROUTE XXIX. NAMUR TO I.U.\EM111UC AND TREVES. 23:1 posts and 2 Prussian miles, = 121i Eng. miles. A most excellent road, completed by the Dutcli only 2 years before the Revolution. As the Fortress of Luxemburg belongs to the King of Holland, a Dutch minister's signa- ture should be attached to the passport of the traveller desirous of passing through it. (?) A diligence goes every day from Brussels to Luxemburg. The best and only comfortal)ie lialt- ing places are Marche and Arlon. 1;^ Vivier I'Agneau. H Emptinnes. 21 La Marche Inn, Cloche d'Or: clean and tolerably comfortable sleep- ing quarters. A pretty town, capital of the Famenne, a fertile corn dis- trict, named after its ancient inhabit- ants, the Phcemanni, mentioned by Casar. The first stage out of La Marche, passing through the forest of St. Hu- bert, is very pretty indeed. This is Shakspeare's " Forest of Ardeii;" and so well does the reality agree with his description of its woodland scenery, that the traveller might almost expect to meet the " banished duke" holding his sylvan court under the greenwood-tree, or to surprise the pen- sive Jaques meditating by the side of the running brook. 2i Champion, a solitary post-house. A few miles beyond Champion the infant Ourthe is crossed. 3 Bastogne has no regular inn ; but the Demoiselles Marguerites will lodge a small party. There is a curious old church here. 2^ Martelange. 2| Arlon. — Inn, H. du Nord : clean and comfortable sleeping quar- ters : bed 30 sous, breakfast 30 sous ; Arapidlyincreasingtown, of 5000 in- habitants : supposed to be the Roman Orolanum. 'Jhe Capuchin Convent, which occupies the highest ground in the town, is converted into a school; it is in no wise remarkable, except for its commanding position. A road strikes oft' from Arlon to Metz ( H. de I'Europe), which is the nearest way from London to Strasburg. Should the division of the Duchy of Lux- emburg, projected by the Treaty of 1831, be carried into execution, two Belgium. ROUTE XXX. — THE MEUSE. 175 thirds of it will fall to the share of King Leopold, and Arlon will be- come the capital of the Belgian part of the province. The Dutch frontier, as proposed, commences at Kaap. 3i Luxemburg. — Inn, H. de Co- logne the l)est, but not very clean. The situation of Luxemburg is very singular; and the extent and extra- ordinary cliaractcr of its fortifications combine to make it higiily picturesque. The traveller from the side of Brus- sels comes upon it unawares, so com- pletely is it wedged in between high escarped rocks on tlie margin of the Alzette. On entering from the Ger- man side, it is difficult to comprehend how these are to be surmounted, or the drawbridges reached, which ap- pear to hang suspended in the air. The communication between the up- per and lower towns is by flights of steps, and by streets carried up in zigzags, so as to be passable for a car- riage. The defences, partly excavated in the solid rock, have been increased and improved by the successive pos- sessors of Luxemburg, by the Spa- niards (1697), Austrians (1713), French (1684 and 1795), and Dutch, rendering it one of the strongest places in Europe. It is now one of the fortresses of the German Con- federation; and is garrisoned by 2000 Prussians. Under the auspices of the German Confederation it has been en- tirely repaired and greatly strength- ened since 1830, and a new fort is now (1837) building outside the gate to Treves. The most remarkable part of the fortifications is that called Le Boiic : its casemmates, entirely exca- vated in the solid rock, are capable of holding 4000 men, and resemble those of Gibraltar. The commandant will sometimes give strangers admission. The Grand Duchy, of which Lux- emburg is the chief town, was given to the King of Holland, at the Treaty of Vienna (1815), in consideration of his abandoning his claim upon Nassau. The town contains about 11,000 in- habitants. The Gothic Church of Si. Peter was built 1120, but is not remarkable. A diligence goes daily to Treves from Luxemburg. The post-master at Luxemburg charges 35 sous for each horse per post, and has the right of attachinga third horse: thefirst stage is heavy and hilly; the road paved. 3.J Grevenmachern. The road here reaches the Moselle, and is macadam- ised : it proceeds along its left bank through charming scenery to Treves. The Prussian frontier is crossed at the bridge over the Sure, close to which is the custom-house. (§ 43.) G miles above Treves the road passes the very remarkable Roman mo- nument of I(/il, described in Rt. XLL The village stands opposite to the junction of the Saar (Saravus) with the IMoselle. Co7iz, a village near its mouth, derives its name from the Emperor Corestantine, who had a summer palace here, traces of which still exist in the foundations of brick walls, towers, &c. The Roman bridge over the Saar was blown up by the French, 1675. Treves, Route XLL ROUTE XXX. THE JIEUSE. NAMUR. TO DIXANT AND GIVET. An excellent post road, of 5^ posts, = 27ij English miles, traversed by a diligence three times a week : a car- riage may easily be hired at Namur. The Meuse above Namur is not less interesting, though less visited, than below it. For a considerable distance the river is hemmed in by magnificent escarpments of limestone, resembling, in height and form, the banks of the Avon at Clifton, and the vales of Derbyshire. The road as- cends the left bank as far as Dinant, w-here it crosses the river by a stone bridge. Several villas and pretty cha- teaux are passed. A few miles below Dinant, on the right bank, rises the Castle of Poilvache. Upon the top of a rock, \ mile below Dinant, stands the ruined castle of I 4> 176 ROUTE XXX THE MEUSE. DINANT. Scct. II. Bouvif/ne. During the siege of this place by tlie French under the Due de Nevcrs (1554) three beautiful women retired with their husbands into the tower of Cr^vecoeur, hoping to assist and encourage the garrison by tlieir presence. The defence was obstinate, but at last all were slain but the tliree heroines, who, unwilling to submit to the brutality of the con- querors, threw themselves from the top of thetower, in sight of the French, and were dashed to pieces on the rocks. ,"4 Diiiant. — Jnn, Post best, but not very good, a town of 4000 in- habitants, romantically situated at the base of limestone cliftls, to which the fortifications and the chapel on their summit add interest. There are caverns in the contorted convolutions of the limestone strata. Winding stairs, cut in the rock, render the sum- mit of the cliffs above the town ac- cessil)le to its inliabitants. Permission to enter the citadel is given by the commandant. The Church is rather interesting. ( T ) Tlie inhabitants of Boiivigne were rivals of those of Dinant in the manu- facture of copper kettles (called from the place dinunderien), and the ani- mosity thus created led to bloody and long continued feuds between them. In defiance of their neigli- bours, the men of Bouvigne built the castle of Cr&vecocur; and those of Di- nant, to annoy them in return, erected that of Montorgueil, whicii they were afterwards compelled to destroy. Philip the Good, irritated by some act of aggression, l)esieged Dinant with an army of .'50,00() men. The inliabitants, when summoned to sur- render, replied l)y lianging the mes- sengers sent with the ])roposals. The Duke, enraged at this outrage, was preparing to take the town by assault vlien it surrendered. lie gave it up to jjillage for three days, and then set fire to it; and, while the flames were still raging, ordered tSOO of the inha- bitants, bound two and two, to be tin-own into the Meuse. Though weak from illness, he was carried in a litter to a spot whence he could feast his eyes on the confla- gration and horrible execution ; and, not satisfied with this act of ven- geance, he sent workmen to pull down the ruined walls remaining after the fire, that not a vestige of Di- nant might survive. His son, Charles the Bold, who succeeded three years after, allowed the town to be rebuilt ; but it was again sacked, burnt, and demolished, in 1554, by the French under the Due de Nevers, — a mis- fortune occasioned principally by the insolence of the towns-people, in re- plying to the summons to surrender by a message to the effect that, if the Duke and tlie King of France fell into their hands, they would roast their hearts and livers for breakfast. The excursion from Dinant to the grotto of Hans sur I^esse is described in the the following route (XXXI.). About T! a mile above Dinant the road goes through a kind of natural portal, formed by the abrupt termin- ation of a long narrow ridge or wall of rock, projecting from the preci- pitous cliffs on tlie left, and on tlie right by a pointed and bold isolated mass of rock, called the Roche Baijard. The cleft was widened by order of Louis XIV. to facilitate the passage of the road up the valley. Near this are quarries of black marble, and immediately above lies Anseremme, a pretty town with overhanging clifTs. The road afterwards begins to as- cend. The finest point on the route is about ,*} miles above Dinant at the Chateau of Frcye, a country seat be- longing to the Duchess de Beaufort, with beautiful gardens on the left bank of the river, at the base of richly wooded hills, which are furrowed by ravines. Within the grounds there is a very ])retty natural grotto, abounding in stalactites, and singularly lighted by an aperture in the rock. Opposite t■^ Freyc tlie stupendous clifl's of limestone rise directly from the Meuse. These Belmum. ROUTE XXXI. THE ARDENNES. 177 precipices are much subdivided and broken up, presenting striking forms and outlines _; sometimes jutting out in ledges more or less connected witli the mass of the cliff, at other times sepa- rated into isolated fragments ; and oc- casionally tiie upper part of the range projects beyond the perpendicular, so as completely to overhang the river. The l)anks present lofty cliffs and ro- mantic scenery as far as Falmignoiil. At Heer a quarry of red marble is passed. The view of Gi vet from tiie top of a hill, surmounted by the road in ap- proaching it, is very picturesque ; the fortifications and windings of the river appear to great advantage. — T. T. 2^ GivET. Inns: Le Cygne ; Le Mont d'Haurs — Givet and Charle- mont may be regarded as parts of one town, jirettily situated on opposite banks of the I\Ieuse, but connected by a bridge. Tliey belong to Fiance, lying just within the frontier : the population is 4000 : the fortifications were constructed by Vauban. The fortress of Charlemont (on the left bank) is placed on a high and com- manding rock of limestone, which is [ sometimes of so fine a texture as to be | quarried for marble. | The grotto of Hans sur Lesse may be visited from Givet, travelling over cross roads. ROUTE XXXI. THE ARDESNES. DINANT TO HAXS SI:R lesse, ST. HU- BERT, AND BOUILLON. A very good new road, traversed thrice a week by a diligence, but not as yet (1837) provided with post- horses, has been formed from Dinant to Neufchateau, passing through the midst of the Ardennes forest, and Avithin 5 or 6 miles of the Trou de Hans. The line is carried through Celles, Ardennes, a villa (or hunting scat) of King Leopold; Almars, Avenaye, where travellers turn aside if they intend to visit the Trou de Hans ; Lomprez, Neupont, Neuf- chateau, and Arlon. The cavern called Trou de Hans is about 20 miles (8 post leagues) from Dinant. The valley of the Lesse is here stopped up by a rocky barrier stretch- ing across it, but the river precipi- tates itself into the cavern at the foot of this rock, and forces a passage through it. The distance from the entrance to the spot where the river quits the cavern is about li mile. The cavern is accessible on one side in a boat kept l)y a man residing hard by, who serves as a guide, and pro- vides torches. It consists of a series of chambers opening into one another — some high, others low, some shaped like a syphon upright or inverted; in places it contains some fine stalac- tites. It takes about two hours to explore the cave : there is a poor cabaret near it. A crossroad leadshenceby Wavrulle, Grupont, and Bure, a distance of 12 or 1 5 miles, to St. Hubert, (Inn, H. des Pai/sBas,) a miserable little town of 1500 iniia- bitants, in the midst of the forest of St. Hubert, which has a circumfer- ence of 40 miles. Tlte Ahhey Church is a fine Gothic edifice, adorned with precious marbles, and contrasting strangely with the humble buildings about it. Its founder, St. Hubert, the patron of hnnlers and sportsmen, was originally a dissolute prince, who, among other profane acts, was guilty of tliat of hunting on Sundays. He even did not hold sacred the holy fes- tival of Good Friday ; but, while en- gaged in his favourite diversion on that day, a stag suddenly presented itself to him, bearing a cross growing between its horns. The apparition, which he believed to be miraculous, and to be sent from heaven, recalled him from his evil mode of life. Re- nouncing equally his vices and his pleasures, he passed the rest of his days in penance and prayt-r ; and, de- voting his fortime to the church, ac- quired such a degree of sanctity as to work miracles, not merelv by his I .5 178 ROUTE XXXII. BRUSSELS TO PARIS. Scct. II. hands, but by his garments; so that even a shred of his mantle possessed virtue enough to cure hydrophobia, if placed on the patient's head. In an- cient times, the Abbot of St. Hubert paid an annual tribute of 3 couple of hounds to the King of France, to be allowed to collect contributions for the monastery in his kingdom. There is a good new road from St. Hubert to Champion and Marche : post stations on the high road from Namurto Luxemburg. (Rt. XXIX.) There is another cross road to Bouillon, and a third by Neufchateau ' to Arlon, on the way to Luxemburg. A good road has been constructed from Dinantto Beauraing,and is about to be continued (it is said) to Bouil- lon 1 the entire distance is calculated at 8 posts, about 40 miles. Bouillon, once capital of the duchy of the same name, was pawned by Godfrey of Bouillon to the Bishop of Liege, to raise funds for the First Crusade. In after times the bishops refused to allow it to be redeemed, ■which gave rise to a long series of feuds and fights between them and Godfrey's descendants, so that the ter- ritory of Bouillon became truly debate- able ground. At length Louis XIV. directed Marechal Crequi to take pos- session of the town, " not," says his publislied declaration, " for the pur- pose of prejudicing the Bishops of Liege, but for the protection of France which is not sufficiently fortified in that quarter." Louis, having thus re- alised tlie fable of the Oyster, pro- tested, before the Congress of Nim- v.egen, that he was prepared to resign the province as soon as tlie umpires liad decided to which of the contend- injpartiesitoiight to belong. Thedis- pute, iiowever, was never settled, and the House of Lafour d'Auvergne as- sumed the sovereignty and title of Dukes of Bouillon, with the consent of I>ouis. The town was ceded to the Netherlands by the treaty of Vienna. The extensive ruins of the Castle of Bouillon occupy the summit of a rock elevated high above the town, and washed by the river Semoi. ROUTE XXXIL BKUSSELS TO TAalS, BY PERONNE AND CAMBRAY. 375 posts=180^ English miles. Charged 39i posts, including 2 postes Royal es. This is the route taken by the dilU gences, two of which set out every day , and perform the journey in about 36 hours. A rail-road is projected. Leaving Brussels by the Porte d* Anderlecht, the road passes several villages, but no place of importance, till it reaches Hal, a small town of 5000 inhabitants, famous for basket- work. The Church of our Lady is rich in votive offerings made to the miracle-working image within. 1^ La Gennette. Jean Battiste Rousseau died here in 1741. The small village of Braine le Comte is said to derive its name from the Gaulish chief Brennus(?). The dis- trict around furnishes some of the finest flax which is any where pro- duced : it is employed in the manu- facture of Brussels lace. A few miles to the N. W. is Steenkerk, where William III. was defeated by the Duke of Luxemburg, in 1692, with a loss of 7000 men. IJ Soignies has given its name to the vast forest which reaches to Wa- terloo. 2 MoNs. (Bergen in Germ.). — Inns : Hotel Royal best. — Hotel des Pays Bus, not good. Mons, the chef-lieu of the Province of Hainault [Hennegau) is a forti- fied town, owing its origin to a castle built here by Julius Cwsar as a strong- hold (luring his campaign against the Gauls. It contains 23,000 inhabit- ants. The fortifications were razed by the Emperor Joseph II., but have been renewed and strengthened since 1818. The facilities for laying the country round the town com- pletely under water, by admitting the river Trouille, add greatly to Belsiuyn. ROUTE XXXII. VALENCIEXNES. 179 its defensive capabilities. All ap- proacl) on the east is rendered dlfHciilt by two large ponds or lakes which surround the walls on that side. Mons derives great advantages from the numerous and productive coal- mines by which it is surrounded : a great many steam-engines are em- ployed to pump up the water and extract the coal, which is exported in large quantities to Paris, by the long line of inland navigation connecting these mines with the French metro- polis. It has been calculated that a population of nearly 2.^,000 persons are employed in and about the mines of the coalfield of Mons. There are also in the neighbourhood extensive bleaching grounds. The principal buildings are the Church of St. Wau- dru, a very handsome Gothic edifice, begun in 1460, but not completed till 1580, it is well worth tlie notice of strangers. The high altar is deco- rated with curious marble bas reliefs, from the New Testament, cut by an Italian artist, 1556. They were sadly mutilated at the French Revolution. The Castle, a high tower or bcffroi, wasbuiltin lG62,onthesiteof Cassar's Castrum, as is reported. Tlie Gothic Town Hall was built in 1440. Mons was the native place of Or- lando Lassus, the celebrated musician of the XVIth century. A communi- cation is opened between the town of Mons and the Scheldt by the canal de Conde : a new branch, called Canal d'Antoing, has recently been cut to avoid the French territory altogether, and to enter the Scheldt lower down, at a point where both banks of that river belong to Belgium. At the distance of about 10 miles from Mons, but within the French frontier, was fought the bloody battle of Mal- plaquet, 1 709, where the Duke of INIarlborough and Prince Eugene beat the French, though with a loss of 20,000 men. On quitting IMons the road crosses the river Trouille, runs along the dyke of the Canal de Conde, and passes close to the sluices of St. Ghislain, by means of which the whole country around might be inun- dated. Between Mons and the village of Quarcgnon lies that of Jemappes, celebrated for the victory gained by the French, under General Du- mouricz and the Duke de Char- tres, now King Louis-Philippe, in 1792, over the Austrians. Three coal-pits were filled with dead bodies of men and horses after the battle. The result of this victory was to make the French masters of Belgium. A stone has been set up close to the road to mark the scene of the battle. 1^ Hornu. Near this is a popu- lous and increasing colony, already numbering more than 3000 inhabit- ants, though of recent origin, having been established by the late M. Le- grand. It is composed principally of miners and iron forgers, who are maintained by the mines of coal and iron here. Steam engines are :nanu- factured to a considerable extent here. The village is built with straight streets on a uniform plan, the houses being of the same height. This country resembles much the neigh- bourhood of INIanchesterand Bolton: the roads are black wuth coal dust, which in windy weather begrimes the face and garments of the traveller and the dwellings partake of the same hue. Every cottage seems as populous as a hive. Ij Quievrain, a small village, is the station of the Belgian custom-house officers. About ^ a mile further on, the small river L'Aunelle marks the boundary of France. There is a triple row of French custom-houses on this frontier ; and the repeated searches to which the traveller is sub- jected is often very annoying, and occasions considerable delay. li Valenciennes. — Inns: La Poste; Le Canard ; La Biche ; La Cour de France. — A fortress of the second class, constructed by the engi- neer Vauban : it lies on the Scheldt, and has a population of 20,000 souls. I 6 180 nOUTE XXXII. — CAMBRAI. Sect. 11. In 179S it was taken by the allies under the Duke of York, after a severe bombardment, which destroyed a part of the town : it was yielded back next year. In the errand square, or Place d'Armes, are situated the Hold de rule, a Gothic building, the Theatre, and the Belfrey. Tlie Church of St. Gerij is reported to contain two paintings by Rubens. The celebrated Valenciennes lace is manufactured here, and a con- siderable quantity of fine cambric. This is the birth-place of Watteau the painter, of Froissart the historian, and of the minister D'Argenson. On entering France, passports must be delivered up here ; and on quitting the country they are strictly examined by the police. Recent researches and excavations, in the neighbouring village of Famar {Fumim Martis), have brought to li"ht a great many Roman antiqui- ties, and traces of an ancient fortress. On quitting Valenciennes, the road passes through the rich coat field of Aiizin; probably the most important for its produce in all France : 40 mines are worked in this district : some of them are 300 metres deep, Paris is supplied with a large quari- tity of coal from hence, by the canal of St. Quentin. The last or innermost Douane is at Douchy. '2\ Bouchain, a fortress on the Scheldt, with about 1200 inhabitants. 2Cami!RAI. Jnns : Hotel de I'Eu- rope, excellent; Grand Canard. An- otiier fortress on the Scheldt, with 17,0C0 inlmbifants, principally re- markable for the fine muslin (batiste) manufactured here, named liy the En- oii!, ; the English are apt to pronounce them snn/Y-posts. Germany. 34. the ger. voiturier. — lohxkutscher. 191 cliaiscn) are prepared for extra passengers — a very great accominodation. On some occasions, for instance during the Leipzig fair, as many as twenty or thirty additional carriages are attacl)ed, and set out and travel in company. Passengers cannot be called for at their own houses, but must meet the diligence at the coach office, and must send tlicir luggage at least an hour before. Every article is weighed and entered in a book. A certain weight is allowed to each passengei' : all above that must be paid for: large trunks must be sent by a baggage-waggon. Tlie Conilucleur is usually a superior person to the English guard ; and, besides his duties, has the charge of paying postillions, and is responsible for the baggage of his passengers. He is not entitled to any remuneration from tlitm ; indeed in many cases he is forbidden to accept any — a regulation ■which is greatly superior to the system prevalent in England, where the traveller is exposed often to the insolence and importunities of coachmen and guards. Posinaggons- — Besides the Eilwagen, there is another species of public con- Teyance, of an inferior kind, not so well appointed, and much slower, called Fahrpost, or Postwagen. It is so tedious, usually on account of the long stoppages which it makes at every stage, that the traveller might get to his journey's end nearly as soon on foot. On those roads where there are eil- wagen, the postwagen should be decidedly avoided, as they are commonly crowded by inferior persons ; but there are other roads which are only tra- versed by a postwagen. For ladies, or for a family, a Diligence is by no means a desirable convey- ance ; nor is it indeed nearly so economical as a Lolmkutscher's carriage. In many cases, where a party amounts to three or four, it will be less expensive to buy a carriage and travel post than with the Diligence. 34. THE GERMAN VOITURIER. LOHNKUTSCHER. In all the large towns of Germany, coachmen (called Lohnkutscher or Landkutscher), similar to the Italian Vctturini, abound, ready at all times to convey travellers in every direction. They are usually to be met with in the principal streets, in front of the great inns, where their carriages are stationed, and where ihey hang up boards, bearing the names of the places to which they are bound, and they are not backward in giving the same information verbally, as they usually address every one who passes with the question, " Suchen sie gelcgenheit, mein Herr?" (Are you in search of an opportunity of travelling, sir?) The advantages of Vetturino travelling consist,_^r5f , in its being cheaper than posting, or even than the Schnellpost, when four persons join in taking a carriage; — secoiicl/i/, it is mori: independent than the diligence, as it allows the traveller to stop on the road, by having a previous understanding with the driver; — thirdly, as there are very few roads on which German schnell- posts and eilwagen travel every day of the week, it is often the only mode of proceeding, unless the traveller take post-horses; — fourthly, it is almost the oiily available mode of travelling upon cross or side roads which are not jjosl-road.1 ; — fflhly, it allows the traveller an opportunity of resting at niglit. At the same time it must be remembered that, as the Lohn- kutscher travels with the same pair of horses, it is not an expeditious mode of conveyance ; forty or fifty miles being the utmost extent of a day's journey ; and one or two halts of an liour or two's duration are necessary to refresh the horses each day. It will, therefore, not answer for the traveller who is pressed for time. 192 31. THE GER. VOITURIER. LOHNKUTSCHER. ScCt. III. The us&al Vetturino carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of being shut ill with leather curtains or glass windows, and of accommodating four persons. The coachman undertakes the care and transport of baggage without any additional charge. The usual cost per diem for the entire use of a caleche, drawn by two horses, is from six to seven dollars in Prussia and the North of Germany, and eight or ten florins in the south. The driver, if he behave well, receives a trinkgeld of I'J G. gros, or a zwanziger, per diem. In this is included every charge for tolls, barriers, ferries, &c., and the driver provides for himself and horses. When forage is dear, or tolls heavy, some little difference may be made ; but the above may be considered an average of the charges. As a further guide to a Lohnkutscher's charge, it may be mentioned, that the hire of a carriage for four persons should not exceed half the fare of foury^r the same distance in the Eilwagen. Upon much frequented roads the German Lohnkutscher has no right to claim back fore, as he liardly fails to pick up passengers on his JX'turn ; and indeed lie will not hesitate to go to the most distant corner of Europe if he meets wiili a good ofi'tr. Before hiring a carriage expressly for a journey, it is advisable to ascertain whether there be no return carriages (retour chaisen) about to take the same route, as such may be engaged at a very reduced rate. A single individual has no occasion to take a whole coach to himself: he may secure a single place, paying proportionately ; but then he must take his chance of the company he may have to encounter as fellow passengers. He should make his bargain, and secure his place, over vight : if he wait till the morning, he vvill probably find that all the Lohnkutschers have departed be- fore he was up, as they set out betimes, and he will either be compelled to remain on the spot till the following day, or to hire a carriage expressly for himself. ■\Vhen the journey will last for several days, it will be well not to engage the coachman at once for the whole distance, but, if satisfied, to take liim on day by day. It is better not to employ a driver upon a road which he has not travelled before, but to seek out one who will serve as a guide, and be able to give some information about the inns and country through which he has to pass. In Germany it is not customary or necessary to draw up a written agree- ment with the driver as in Italy ; but it is sometimes the practice for him to deposit in the hands of the jicrson who has engaged him a small sum of money (darauf-geld ; in Italy, la caparra) as a surety that he will not fail in his engagement, and run off, in case he can make a better bargain else- wliere. The receipt of this money is also binding on the part of the emjiloyer, who cannot afterwards put off the driver without paying him a consider- ation. Before engaging the w/iole carriage, a verbal stipulation should be made with the driver, that he is to take up no person by the way without his emjiloyer's consent ; that he is to stop when and where he is bid ; and, tliou^h it is an understood thing that he is to pay all tolls, &c., a foreigner had better men- tion this also. The time of starting, and the length of the day's journey, should also be fixed. The German Voiturier does not engage to provide you with meals as the Italian ; but he expects to be allowed to stop at inns of his own choosing, — a condition to which travellers are not compelled to agree, though they rarely object. He never fails to regulate his daily journey so as to make his mid- Germany. 34. the ger. voiturier. — lohnkutscher. 193 day halt at some place where there is a good dinner just ready to be served up. This mid-day halt of two or three hours' duration will often suffice to enable the traveller to see as much as he can desire of many places where he -would have no inclination to spend a whole day, and which he would merely drive hurriedly through in the public diligences. [These directions will probably be found to be as ample as are necessary ; of course, the traveller must not always expect that matters will go smoothly. If he be totally unacquainted with the German language, he will obviously be exposed to numberless inconveniences, and if he be prudent, will bear them quietly; in vetturino travelling, he must expect to start at break cf day, in all weathers, and at a pace seldom exceeding a good ordinary walk ; at mid- day to rest for three or four hours, possibly at a place of not the slightest interest, and to go to bed at the setting of the sun. When it has been said above, that a single individual may secure a place paying proportionately, it may often happen to a traveller, especially an Englishman, from ignorance, mismanagement, and other causes, to find that his share will be two or three times greater than thut of any of his fellow-passengers. In order to explain his meaning clearly, the writer will mention one or two incidents which hap- pened to himself. Being at Heidelberg, and anxious to go to Carlsruhe, lie stipulated that, for a certain sum, the Kutscher should not take more than three persons (including the writer) in the inside of the caleche; and, igno- rant of the custom of the place, paid in advance a portion of his fare to the master or proprietor ; the next morning at ti ve o'clock, the Kutscher, whom he had not seen before, took him up at his inn, put four other persons into the carriage before he left the town, and not only pretended ignorance of the writer's arrangements, but even of any money being paid. When the fourth and fifth person attempted to get in, the writer of course strenuously resisted, and what was the result? as he only spoke French, and the Kutscher Ger- man, they did not understand each other. The parties objected to were otFended at what they considered a rude interference, and the writer com- menced his journey by rendering himself disagreeable, and by being sneered at by all for his simplicity and weakness ; added to this, the sum which he paid was nearly 3 of the whole amount. In going from Freyburg (Brisgau) to Basle, he made a similar arrange- ment, and the voiturier was to start not later than the second day, and at a fixed hour; and at the time of starting there were two gentlemen with much luggage, and tiie Kutscher fulfilled his contract correctly and well. Of course the writer had no legitimate cause of complaint ; and though, on inquiry, it turned out that he bad paid nearly three times as much as either of the others, it might be said that he ouglit to have done so, having limited tlie Kutscher as to number ; still tliis bargaining for conveyance, this uncertainty of price, is a perpetual source of little irritation and annoyance. There is also another inconvenience arising from this mode of travelling ; it will often happen that two or three days will elapse before a favourable opportunity will offer itself of quitting a place, so that the traveller no sooner arrives at his desired town than, instead of giving way to the full enjoyment of seeing sights, or of resting himself, he will find it necessary to look out immediately for voituriers, and to busy himself with bargaining operations as to how he is to get aw ay. ( S. ) ] 191:' 35. COST OF TRAVELLIXG, ETC. — 36. BAGGAGE. Sect. III. 35. COMPARISOK OF THE COST OF TRAVELLING BY THESE DIFFERENT MODES, ON AVERAGE. Fahfjiost, or Foslwagen, very slow, stops long and often on the road ; the cost of a place varies from Tg to 10 S. gr., ojr 25 to 30 kr. per German mile. Schnellpost, or Eilwageti, 10 to 12^ S. gr., or 30 to 35 kr. per German mile. The average rate of travelling is a German mile per hour. Posting, or Extra-post, two persons and two horses, pay commonly 1 dol- lar ; three persons and three horses, 2 dollars per German mile. An English traveller of some experience found upon a careful computa- tion, that the cost of posting in a barouche or chariot with three horses, in Germany (i. e. in Prussia, Darmstadt, Eaden, Nassau, Wirtemberg, Bavaria, Tyrol), on an average, fluctuated between \s. \^d. and Is. 3d. per English mile, barriers, postilions, and every thing included. In Austria it was a little dearer. 36. BAOOAGE. The Romans showed they fully appreciated the nature of baggage, in designating it by the appropriate word " impedimenta," and truly the tra- veller will find it an impediment at every step. It is a source of much anxiety, trouble, and expense ; and he alone can be called independent who can carry all his chattels on his back. Ladies should be cautioned not to encumber themselves with supernumerary caps and band-boses ; even if they ti"avel post in their own carriage, it will be less trouble and expense to buy such articles in the great towns, than have to take an extra horse in consi- deration of the number of packages. A person about to travel, not in his own carriage, but in public conveyances, if he require much baggage, should distribute it into small packages ; and, instead of taking one large box. or trunk of wood (koffer), had better provide himself with two portmanteaus (felleisen) of leather, or with a carpet bag. Throughout Germany, passengers by the schnellpost or eilwagen are very strictly limited as to the quantity of baggage ; in general, one is allowed no more than SOlbs. free of expense — all above that is called over-weight (uebergewicht), and must be paid for. But even payment will not enable the passenger to take his baggage with him if it weigh more than 50 lbs. If it exceed by a few pounds these prescribed limits, it must be sent by a sepa- rate conveyance, a baggage waggon (packwagen), which, being a much heavier and slower vehicle, usually sets out some time before the schnell- post or eilwagen. A traveller loaded with heavy trunks, and ignorant of this regulation, may be subjected to great inconvenience by being separated for several days from them ; while he that is aware of it will deposit tlie articles immediately wanted in a light bag or valise, and send oft' his heavy baggage beforehand. A receipt is given for every article forwarded in this manner; on presenting which in the post-office at the place whitlier the traveller is bound, the luggage is delivered to him as soon as it arrives. If he require to have his things at a particular place by a certain time, he must send them forward some days before he starts himself. N, B. — In some cases, a bribe, judiciously administered to the conductor, or man who weighs the baggage, will relieve the traveller from the inconve- nience described above. When about to plunge into a mountainous country, where there are no car- riage roads, it is indispensable to diminish the baggage to the utmost. Germany. 37. some peculiarities of German manners. 195 Trunks, boxes, and parcels may be safely forwarded by the government, or private eilwagen, from one capital to another, or even across a frontier, into the territory of another sovereij;n. In the latter case, they should be addrciised to the owner, at the custom-house (Haupt Mauth, or Zollamt) of the place to which he wishes them sent, where they will be taken care of, and kept till called for. At the same time a letter of specification (frachtbrief) should be dispatclied, by post, bearing the same address as the parcel, and stating the nature and value of the contents, so as to identify them when the owner arrives. Wlien he comes to claim them he will be required to show his passport, and to open the packages in the ordinary manner, in the presence of a custom-house officer. When a parcel is not sent beyond a frontier, but is merely forwarded from one town to another, if the traveller have no friend or agent in the town to whose care he can consign it, all that is required is, that he should address it j}oste restante, and it will be kept at the post-office till called for. 37. SOME PECULIARITIES OF SERMAK MANNERS. A fondness for titles, orders, and high-sounding forms of address, which was ever the characteristic of the Germans, though perhaps less intense than formerly, has by no means yet disappeared. The German is scarcely happy until he can hang a little bit of striped ril)and from his button-hole, and every ellbrt of interest and exertion is made to increase the number of them, and of the crosses and stars wliich dangle from them. This national weak- ness is however, to a certain extent, gradually disappearing. At one of the diplomatic meetings, during the Congress of Vienna, when all the members were assembled in the hall of conference, a foreign envoy approached Prince Metternich, and begged him to point out Lord Castle- reagh. The Prince indicated to him the English minister, who wore neither star nor uniform. " Comment," said the doubting diplomate ; " il n'a pas de decoration ? " — " 3Ia foi," replied Prince Metternich, " c'est bien dis- tingue. " One habit of German society, which cannot fail sometimes to occasion a smile to an Englishman, though it costs him some trouble to acquire it, is the necessity of addressing everybody, whether male or female, not by their own name, but by the titles of the office which they hold. To accost a gentleman, as is usual in England, with — Sir (Mein Herr), if not considered among the Germans themselves as an actual insult, is at least not compliincnlary ; it is requisite to find out his office or profession. The commonest title to which everybody aspires is that of Councillor (Rath), which is modified and extended by various affixes and prefixes till it reaches up to Geheimrath (privy councillor), a title to which somewhat of real im- portance is attached, and which we have also in England. In Germany there is a ratli for every profession : an architect is a baurath j an advocate, a justiz- rath, &c. &c. ; and a person with no profession at all contrives to be made a hofrath (court councillor), a very unmeaning title, which is generally given to persons who were never in a situation to give advice to the court. The title Professor is much abused, as it is certainly appropriated by many persons Avho have no real claim to it by their learning or office. It is l)etter, in con- versing with a German, to give a person a rank greater than he is entitled to, than to fall beneath tlie mark. It is upon this principle that an Englishman is sometimes addressed by common people, to his great surprise, as Herr Graf (Mr. Count), and often as Euer Gnaden (your Lordship). " Every man who holds any public office, should it be merely that of an K 2 196 37. SOME PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. SeCt. III. under-cleik, with a paltry salary of 40/. a-ycar, must be gratified by hearing his title, not his name. Even absent jjersons, when spoken of, arc generally designated by their official titles, however humble and unmeaning they may be. The ladies are not behind in assciting tlieir claims to honorary appella- tions. All over Germany, a wife insists upon taking the titleof her husband, ■with a feminine termination. Tliere is madame general-ess, madame privy- councillor-ess, madame daybook-keeper- ess, and a hundred others." — Russel. These titles sometimes extend to an almost unpronounceable length j only think, for instance, of addressing a lady as, Fran Oberconsistorialdirectorin (Mrs. Directress of the Upper Consistory Court). This may be avoided, l)owever, by substituting the words gnaidige frau (gracious madame), in addressing a lady. It must at the same time be observed, tliat this fondness for titles, and especially for the prefix voii (of, equivalent to the French r/t', and originally denoting the possessor of an estate}, is to a certain extent a vul- garity, from which the upper classes of German society are free. The rulers of Germany take advantage of the national vanity, and lay those upon whom they confer the rank under obligation ; while they at the same time levy a lax upon the dignity proportionate to its elevation ; tlius a mere hofrath pays from 30 to 40 dollars annually, and the higher dignities a more considerable sum. If, liowever, the title is acquired bj' merit, no tax is paid, but merely a contribution to a fund for the widows and children of the class. Certain forms and titles are also prefixed on the address of a letter ; thus a Count must be adddressed hoch-geborener-Herr (liigh-born Sir) ; a Baron, a member of the higher noblesse, and a minister, even though not of noble birth, is called hoch-wohlgeboren ; a merchant or roturier must content him- self witii being termed wohl-(well)geboren, while hoch-edel (high-noble) is ironically applied to tradesmen. [It may be useful to observe, that should the traveller be present at any fete, or reception given by one of royal blood, and not be prepared to appear in uni- form, or in full court costume, black will be correct dress : blue coats with metal buttons, white waistcoats, nankeen trousers, &c., will be quite incorrect : black is admissible, under the presumption tliat the party is in mourning. — S.] " Politeness is common to well-educated persons of all nations, and. is not peculiar to any one jieople. If it be not a cardinal virtue, it stands first in the second order, and greatly contributes to the happiness of society. In one respect, however, in Germany, I think it is carried too fiir — I mean in the ■jjerpetual act of pulling off the hat. Speaking ludicrously of it, it really becomes expensive ; for, with a man who has a large acquaintance in any public place, his hat is never two minutes at rest. Tiie first instance of this practice that struck me forcibly occurred at AVietendorf. IMr. came in contact wifli his inspector, or steward, as we call him here, and each of their heads was instantly uncovered. The next \>as at Uobl)eran, when I entered a mercer's sliop with Baron B. The baron took his hat olf respect- fully to the shopkeeper before he told him what he wanted at his shop. I found it to be tlie general custom ; and more than once I saw mechanics and labourers saluting each other in the way I l>avc described." — Ni-mrod'a" LeUers from Holstein. A curious instance of the extent to which this practice of bowing is carried, occurred to the writer in a small provincial town in the south of Germany. At the entrance of the public promenade in the Grand Place, he observed notices painted on boards, which at first he imagined to contain some police regulatiotts, or important order of the magistracy of the town ; upon ])erusal, howevtM, it proved to be an ordonnance to this efiect : "For the convenience Germany. puri-ic gardens and taverns. 197 of promenaders, it is particularly requested that the troublesome custom of saluting, by taking off the liat, should here be dispensed with." It is not to friends alone that it is necessary to doff tlie hat, for if the friend with whom you arc walking meets an acquaintance, to whom he takes off his hat, you must do the same, even though you never saw liim before. It is not, however, in ouuvard forms alone that German civility consists, and a traveller will do well to conform as soon as possible to the manners of the country, even down to the mode of salutation, troublesome as it is. If he continue unbending, he will be guilty of rudeness ; and on entering any public office, even the office of the schnellposts, the underlings of the place, down to the book-keeper, will require him to take off his hat, if he does it not of his own accord. An English traveller repaired to the police-office at Berlin to have his passport signed, and, having waited half an hour, said to the secretary to whom he had delivered it, " Sir, I think you have forgotten my passport." " Sir," replied the man of office, " I think you have forgotten your hat! " In thus recommending to travellers the imitation of certain German cus- toms, it is not meant, be it observed, to include the practice prevalent among the German men of saluting their mah friends with a kiss on each side of the check. It is certainly not a little ludicrous, perhaps even disgusting, to ob- serve this, with us feminine, mode of greeting, exchanged between two whiskered and mustachioed giants of the age of 50 or 60. It may not be amiss to mention, that universal as is the practice of smoking throughout Germany, it is entirely prohibited bi/ the police in the streets of the great capitals ; and persons ignorant of this regulation, or wilfully infringing it, are often stopped by the sentinels on duty, and compelled to remove the pipe or cigar from their mouths. Public Gardens and Taverns. — The outskirts of every German town abound in gardens and houses of public recreation, whither the inhabitants, not merely of the lower orders, but of the most respectable classes also, repair on summer afternoons, and especially on Sunday, to breathe the fresh air, and forget the cares of business in the enjoyment of coffee, ices, beer, and the never-absent pipe. A band of excellent music is not wanting ; indeed, it forms the great attraction, and is usually advertised in the papers for a day or two beforehand : it performs for the entertainment of high and low, and the exciting tones of the waltz seldom fail to originate a dance, in which the citizens' wives and daughters, with their husbands and sweethearts, whirl round for hours in the dizzy maze. It is true tiie time when these places are most frequented, and when the music and dancing are kept up with the greatest spirit, is the Sunday after- noon, which may, perhaps, shock the feelings of an English or Scotchman, accustomed to the rigorous Sabbath-keeping of his own country. A dispas- sionate examination, however, of the two systems, and of the effects produced by each, will probably induce him to pause before he gives unqualified appro- bation and preference to that of his own country. These places of amusement do not open till after the hours of morning service in the churches, and most of the persons who resort to them have previously attended a church. A large portion are tradesmen who have been shut up in their shops, and artisans who have been working hard all the week. They come in their best clothes, and accompanied by wives and families, who, be it observed, are always made parties in these amusements ; they content themselves with coffee, beer, or wine, in moderate quantities ; spirits are never seen, and instances of noisy turbulence and drunkenness are K 3 198 37. SOME PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. SeCt. Ill, almost unknown on these occasions. Such recreation, even with the mirth- ful exercise of dancing superadded, is surely liarmless in comparison with the solitary orgies of the pot-house and gin-shop, to wliich the same class of persons but too often devote their Sundays in our country, squandering in loathsome intemperance the earnings of the week, whicli ought to be devoted to the wants of the starving and neglected wife and family, who are left behind in their close and miserable home. A certain intercourse and intermixture, also, is kept up between the upper and lower classes at tliese meetings, which cannot fail to have an advantageous influence in the relation between the different members of German society. The artisan does not jostle his superiors, or strive to imitate their dress and appearance, nor is he looked down upon as an intruder by them. All classes, high and low, mix together on an equal footing and without restraint. The fact is, in Germany, perhaps, more than in any other country, not only the privileges of nobility, but of all grades, are so clearly understood, and kept distinct, that all parties, however intimate they may seem to be in public, know the exact boundaries of their position in society, and act accordingly ; hence the noble feels at ease, and is conscious that his urbanity will not be abused ; and the rest are influenced by a similar feeling. — S. JCirmes "The Germans are not ashamed of being pleased with trifles, nor of being pleased in very bumble company : they think only whether they enjoy; and, if their enjoyment costs little money and little trouble, so much the better. They love their old customs and traditional festivals much better than we do, and keep to them more faithfully. Formerly, in England, many days were days not only of religious observance, but of festivity for the people ; and each had its appropriate shows and pastimes : but these are nearly all forgotten, and the few which are remembered are turned into days of impor- tunate begging, or coarse riot ; and the pleasures are such as people of refinement and taste can take no share in, nor love to witness : and thus they sink lower and lower, and the chasm between rich and poor grows wider and wider, for want of some common enjoyment to which the high might give order and refinement, and the low cordiality and simplicity : and such an enjoyment is Kirmes. "A yearly festival is held in every village, when the poor people, who work hard all the year, meet together as on a Sunday, go to church together in their gayest clothes, and then inake merry and enjoy themselves. It was, originally, the anniversary of the day on which the village churcli was conse- crated j — [in some parts of Germany it is called Kirch Weigh (the dedication of the church;)] — but, as it was found that these anniversaries often fell at inconvenient times for the country people, they are, by common consent, held in autumn, just after the vintage. At tliis joyous season the country people are in high spirits, and have more leisure, and ratlier fuller purses tlian usual, and are well disposed to rejoice together in the blessing of their harvest. Every morning gay parties walk about on those beautiful hills, and those who can afford it dine at the inns, at every one of which is an excellent table- d'hote at one o'clock ; and, after a merry dinner and a cup of coffee, they adjourn to the ball-room. The Kirmes at considerable villages draws people from all the towns and villages for miles and miles round ; the tables- d'hotc, as well as the balls, are of several degrees, so that even the poorest peasants may sit down to a good and social dinner adapted to their humble means. In the small villages there is most likely only one inn, and conse- quently only one table-d'hote ; but almost all have more than one ball-room, even though the village consists but of a few poor cottages. This ball-room Germany, the turnpikemax. — travelling jourxeymex. 199 is often a large shed without windows, but always with an excellent floor, and a little orchestra at one end ; and this, when lighted up, and filled with faappy faces, and with such a company of musicians as many a fashionable assembly in England cannot boast, is no despicable scene of festivity." • * * « " I have nothing to tell you about the beauty and grace [of the rustic dancers], except that they had none ; they had, however, cheerfulness and perfect absence of affectation, which are always agreeable. The kind and familiar deportment of their superiors inspires them with such confidence that they never seem to conceive that their innocent pleasures can excite disgust or ridicule ; and you may be sure they take care not to do anything which may drive away those who share in their amusements. * * » 'YUq scene of the ball-room was one of hearty enjoyment ; but I saw not the slightest approach to rudeness, indecorum, or drunkenness ; it was the merriment of people who feel that others have a good opinion of them, and an interest in their comfort." — A Letter from Bonn. The above accurate and pleasing account of one of the " Peculiarities of German Manners" is inserted here, both because it describes a scene which travellers may meet with at every step all over Germany, and also with a belief that the customs of Germany are in this respect worthy of imitation, to a certain extent, in England ; besides, to use the writer's own words, *' the pleasures of the rich are things of every-day occurrence, but the plea- sures of the poor are worth recording from their very rarity." The Tumpikeman. — A characteristic feature of the German character is the love of warmth in their clothes and habitations, and an unwillingness to ex- pose themselves to the air. This effeminacy prevails even among the lower orders, who seem to breathe with reluctance when removed from the favoinite atmosphere of their stoves, their tobacco smoke, and the fumes of their beer. It is shown in the great unwillingness whieli an Englishman experiences on the part of his fellow passengers in a public coach to allow a window to be open even in warm weather; but it is most characteristically exhibited in an ingenious contrivance by which the turnpike keeper avoids the necessity of leaving his chimney corner, or exposing more tlian the extremity of his nose to the cold. A scene like the following occurs at the baniere in all parts of Ger- many : — " On the horses stopping, which they seemed most loyally to do of their own accord, the person whose office it was to collect this road-money, or chauss^egelt, in process of time appeared at a window with a heavy pipe hang- ing in his mouth, and in his hand an immense long stick, to the end of which there was affixed a small box containing a ticket, in exchange for which I silently dropped my money into this till. Not a word was spoken, but, with the gravity of an angler, the man having drawn in his rod, a whiff of tobacco was vomited from his mouth, and then the window, like the transaction — closed. ' '.— Head's Bubbles. Travelling Jourtieymeiv, or Handu'erks-Burschen — No one can travel along any of the great roads in Germany, without meeting, almost at everj- mile, a number of young men journeying on foot. The characteristics of the class are, a pipe in the mouth without fail, and generally a stick in the hand, with an enormous knapsack on the back, from the sides of which a pair of boots b usually seen to project. They are generally respectably dressed, wearing a blouse (smockfrock;, and having their hats carefully covered with an oil-skin, so that the traveller is surprised when, as his carriage comes in sight, they take off their hats, and commence begging for alms. These are wandering journeymen ; they are often not undeserving objects of charity ; and a Ger- K 4 200 38. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. Scct. III. man will generally put a few krcutzers or groschen in the cap which is held out, to help the owner on his way. By an ancient regulation prevailing very generally throughout Germany and Switzerland, no apprentice can obtain his freedom and become a master until he has passed a certain number of years in travelling, and in exercising his calling in foreign parts. The intention of this is, that he should gain experience in his craft, and learn the methods practised in other countries besides his own, as well as some knowledge of the world. ' When he first sets out, he receives from the corporation or trade to which he belongs a book, in which he keeps a diary of his wanderings (wander buch), and in which those from whom he may receive employment also write certificates of good and bad conduct. As soon as the novice reaches a place where he proposes to stop, he applies to the members of his own trade, and shows his credentials. If work is to be had, he takes up his residence till it is finished ; if not, he is provided with clean straw and a roof to shelter him, with now and then the scanty pittance of a kreutzer or two from the funds of the guild, and next morning must trudge forward on his way to some other place where his services may be wanted. It will easily be understood that if work is scarce, and the apprentice have nothing of his own, he must often be reduced to great straits, and compelled to have recourse to the charity of the more wealthy. Though there are many inducements to idleness in this system, it is not surprising that it produces a most intelligent set of tradesmen. The writer of this has frequently conversed with common shoemakers and bakers, speaking three or four different languages, well informed as to the state of most of the countries of Europe, and possessing a general fund of knowledge far superior to what is found in persons of the same class in England. When the period of their wanderings (wanderschaft) is expired, the ap- prentice returns home, produces a specimen of his skill, and, if it is approved of, receives his freedom, and is allowed to set up for himself. 38. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. With the Germans an excursion to a watering-place in the summer is es- sential to existence, and the necessity of sucti a visit is confined to no one class in particular, but pervades all, from Emperors and Princes, down to tradesmen and citizens' wives. The number of bathing places and mineral springs in Germany alone now amounts to several hundred ; and every year adds to the list, names, which, though seldom heard in England, are not without their little sets and coteries. The royal and imperial guests repair to them not merely to get rid of the trammels and pomp of sovereignty, thougli it is uni- versally the case tliat they move about with no more show than private indi- viduals, but they also seek such occasions for liolding private congresses, for forming secret treaties, alliances, &c. ; family arrangements and matrimonial connexions are also not unfrequently here concocted. Tlie minister repairs thither to refresh himself from the toils of office, but usually brines his port- folio in his travelling carriage, nor does he altogether even here bid adieu to intrigue and politics. The invalid comes to recruit his strength — the de- bauchee to wash himself inside and out, and string his nerves for a fresh cam- paign of dissii)ution — the shopkeeper and the merchant come to spend their money and gaze on their betters, and the sharper and black-leg, who swarm at all the baths, to enrich themselves at the gaming-tables at the expense of their fellow guests. Carlsbad, Teplitz, and Brilckenau are the resort of emperors and kings ; Germany. 38. German watering-places. 201 Baden and Ems of grand-dukes, princes, and high nobility. Wiesbaden is a sort of Margate, where the overflowing population of Frankfort repairs on Sunday afternoon ; wliilst other baths, like Schlangenbad, are frequented by those whose business is to be cured, and who are strenuously endeavouring, by a few weeks of abstinence and exercise, to extricate themselves from doc- tors' bills and tiie sick list. About the end of 3Iay the annual migration begins ; in June the whole respectable population of Germany may be said to be in motion; July is usually the iieight of the season ; the baths are then crammed, and it is necessary to bespeak accommodation beforehand. There is but little fluc- tuation till tiie end of August ; then tlie tide of visiters begins to ebb ; but if September be fine, many linger behind ; and a few remain till tiie end of October, unless a succession of rainy weather put them to flight earlier. '' The elTect of this natural passion for periodical bathing is, that through- out Germany, the kurzeit (curing-time — season) of the baths, about three months in the summer, forms that sort of general break-tip, to use a familiar phrase, in the system of town life, which the rising of Parliament and the pursuit of partridges and pheasants efiects in the season of the British capital. The capitals of the princes are deserted — court entertainments cease- — the ambassadors and general officers obtain leave of absence from their posts — " the wearj' statesman " quits his bureau, and the merchant his counting- house, and the cumbrous retinue of the princes and their courts are put in motion about the month of July for some favourite scene of picturesque beauty — where Nature has placed her fountains of health amidst the wildest and most beautiful features of landscape — as if to mark out the spot at once for the solace and invigoration of the sick and debilitated, and the recreation and indulgence of the sons of pleasure and of toil. During three months, all that is distinguished in Germany is busied in the pursuit of health and dis- sipation at Teplitz, Carlsbad, Baden, Pyrmont, Wiesbaden, Ems, Schwalbach, and Aix-la-Chapelle. Festivity and forgetfulness of care are the general order of the day. State, and ceremony, and titled hauteur arc in a great degree thrown aside in the easy intercourse of tiie bathing-place; all ranks meet at the balls, the concerts, the saloons, and the wells. The prince and the tradesman lay down their stakes side by side at the Rouge -et-Nuir table. A princess does not disdain a donkey-ride on the mountains, and a sovereign duke may be seen at the table-de-hote side by side with a merchant or sub- altern officer. All tlie macliinery of amusement is to be found here — all tlie artists and artificers that contribute to the enjoyments and the follies of indulgence — actors from Vienna — gaming-table keepers and cooks from Paris — money-lenders from Frankfort — singers from Berlin — shop-keepers, voituriers, pastry-cooks, mountebanks, dancing-masters, donkey-lenders, blacklegs, mistresses, lacqueys — all bustling and contriving in their several vocations to reap the short harvest of profit which tlie season affords. Tlie scene of bustle and vivacity, occasioned by the concentration of several thousands of gay strangerS; the greater part of some style and consideration, with all their proportionate cortege of accessories and dependents, in a little village of five hundred inhabitants, may be easily imagined — the arrivals, the equipages, the varied costumes and physiognomies of different nations — the uniforms, the decorations, the crowded promenades, the tables, the balls, X\\e fetes champetres, the theatres, the concerts, and the effect of all tin's revel- ling and exuberant dissipation, infinitely heightened by the scene being laid in some deep sylvan valley, wliere the silence and serene beauty of nature contrast strongly with the artificial enjoyments and agitating pursuits of the K 5 202 38. GERMAN WATEniNG-PLACES. Sect. III. busy denizens. Perhaps you will tliink that the mere circumstance of nature liaving so lavishly bestowed on the Germans these Hygeian fountains, with their picturesque scenes, is of itself a sufficient cause to account for the fond- ness with which they are frequented. But other causes will be probably found. The pleasures of a country life are as yet almost unknown in Ger- many ; those mingled pleasures of enjoyment of scenery and rural beauties, domestic tranquillity and fire-side comforts, which so many of our own poets have enthusiastically described, and which every Englishman relishes. With the exception of the chateaux of a few nobles, and the villas near a few mer- cantile towns, a gentleman's country-house is hardly to be seen in Germany. The picturesque scenes which are so abundant, never appear habited or habit- able. Nature has here always a character of wildness and loneliness. The Germans likewise have no one great capital, possessing all those attractions which a metropolis affords. The provincial townsman has no Paris or Lon- don to fly to for amusement or change of scene. The summer season at the baths is thus the great object of desire, the rendezvous of friends, the indul- gence to the young, and the relaxation of the busy and the careworn. " Gaiety has a more decided character at a German watering-place — plea- sure' is more the avowed business of everybody, and if ennui may be the motive of as many visits to Aix-la-Chapelle, as to similar places in Great Britain, the remedy here appears inore successful : for you can rarely read in a single countenance, as you so often may in the libraries of Brighton or Cheltenham, the inveterate disease of which persons come to be cured. The system of the day commences with a bath, taken before breakfast. Afterwards follow excursions in the environs, walks iu the gardens, visits to the cafes and bil- liard-rooms, and, above all, the pleasures of the Redoubt, or Grand Saloon, which occupy the gay world till dinner, two or three. This last-mentioned place of rendezvous is the great centre of attraction ; and, with the exception of much more gaiety, more avowed vice, and the absence of all pretence at rational resources, acts the part of the library at an English watering-place. The Redoubt is a large handsome building, the ground-floor open, with a co- lonnade in front, appropriated to prints, toy-shops, &c. After depositing your hat and stick with the gens (Tarmes at the door, you enter the grand saloon — invariably a splendid room. On one side a crowd of motley, but well-dressed and gay-looking persons (I regret to say of both sexes), are pressing over each other's heads, round large banks of Iio»ge-et-2\^oir. An anxious silence reigns, only interrupted by the rattling of the roulette, the jingling of the Napoleons and francs, and the titters and jokes of the few whose speculations are a matter of mere frolic. The play is frequently very high, l)ut the bank does not refuse the stake of a solitary ^r«?ic. Pretty in- teresting women were putting down tlieir Napoleons, and seeing them swept away, or drawing them in doubled, with a sangfroid which proved that they were no novices in that employment." — Antumnnear the Jihinc. Tliese German assembly-rooms are usually the property of the sovereign of the state in whose territory the watering-place is situated, and the gaming- houses are tolerated by him, upon the principle that, as it is almost impossible to prevent the scandal altogether, it is better to control it by taking such esta- blishments under his own surveillance, and to render them beneficial to the country by levying a high tax on them, than to prohii)it them entirely. In 1834, one company, consisting principally of Frenchmen, had taken upon speculation, for a term of years, the Redoutes and rooms at Wiesbaden, Ems, and Baden-Baden, furnishing and managing at the same time restaurants, theatres, and ball-rooms, and providing music upon the public walks. The gaming-tables were understood to be their principal source of profit. Germany. 39- German towns. 203 The evening's entertainment concludes with a ball once or twice a week. A gentleman may ask any lady to dance without the formality of being pre- sented to her ; but this kind of introduction does not entitle him to approach her as an acquaintance on future occasions when he may meet her. To be properly enjoyed, a German, like an English watering-place, should be visited in company with friends, and there is little society to be found out of your own circle ; so that a solitary traveller, after having gazed about him for a day or two, will commonly not hesitate to take flight, in order to escape from ennui. This work does not pretend to describe the medical properties and sanatory powers of the various mineral springs ; those who repair to them with the view of taking the waters or the baths should consult their own physician before leaving home. It is also prudent and customary to ask the advice of the physician resident at the baths as well, before commencing a course of waters. The mode and extent of using the waters, whether internally or externally, can only be regulated by a medical man acquainted with the case and con- stitution of each person ; but there are a few general rules mentioned by Dr. Granville, which it will be useful to insert, from their universal application ; the water should be drunk on an empty stomach, and a short walk should be taken between each draught, but violent exercise is to be avoided. The baths, also, should never be taken after eating, and during bathing a strict attention to diet is advisable. Tea, pastry, acids, vegetables, fruit, and cheese should be avoided, and but little should be eaten at each meal. Wine, if light, may be sparingly used ; but the beer of the country, or Seltzer- water, are preferable beverages. Those who travel in a party with the intention of repairing to any fashion- able watering-place in the height of the season, should not omit to write beforehand either to the keeper of some hotel, the bad meister, or the phy- sician, to secure rooms for them, if they wish to avoid the inconvenience of finding on their arrival that every bed and room in the place arc engaged, an occurence by no means unfrequent. 39. GEI13IAN TOWNS. Firc-yuatch, — The highest tower or steeple of a German town is usually occupied by sentinels who are continually on tlie look-out, night and day, to discover and give the alarm of fire as soon as it breaks out in any quarter. These guardians of the public safety are called the Fire- watch ; and this police regulation prevails almost all over Germany, where, from the general use of wood as a building material, fires are both more frequent and more destructive than in England; where, however, some such provision is highly desirable. The destruction of a whole town or village by a conflagration is no uncommon occurrence in Germany; in 1834, the town of Wienerisch, Keustadt was totally consumed; out of 400 houses, 14 alone escaped being reduced to ashes. Tiie intelligence of a fire is conveyed to the town by the firing of cannon, and the quarter is indicated by holding out a flag by day, or a lantern at night, in the direction in which it has been seen. The follow- ing account of the proceedings on the occasion of a fire breaking out in a German town (Salzburg) is extracted from the note-book of a traveller. " After dinner, as we were sitting quietly in our room, T writing his journal, I listening to the thunder, which, with the rain that accompanied it, had had the eflVct of detaining us within doors, when on a sudden we K 6 204? 39. GEn.MAN towns. Sect. III. were startled by the louder and nearer report of tn o cannon shots, the signal of a fire in the suburbs, beyond the river. We seized our hats and rushed out; the smoke had hardly curled off from the cannon (tiiosc invariable orna- ments of almost every Austrian town^, in the grand place where our hotel stands; yet we found every one already in motion, scampering to and fro, in the house and out of the house; some were getting out the engine, others were dragging towards it a pair of horses which had been ready harnessed for a vetturino's carriage, and those not so employed, both male and female, were hurrying forward to the spot. Some bore leather buckets, other car- ried little tubs fastened to the end of a pole, so as to form a kind of ladle on a large scale, in their hands, in compliance with the regulations of the police, which compels all the townspeople, high and low, to render assistance oa such occasions ; either personally, or, in t4ie case of the rich, by sending their servants and horses. "We joined the throng of shopkeepers and la- bourers who, having quitted their various occupations, were hastening to the scene of the conflagration : it was about two miles off, and the streets lead- ing to it were so narrow that a wheelbarrow would almost suffice to block them up. Every now and then, the clattering of hoofs and rattling of wheels announced the approach of an engine, and sent the crowd flying right and left ; those who were not so fortunate as to squeeze themselves into some liole or corner ran the risk at least of having their toes run over. Several officers also passed us at full gallop, shewing their zeal by hastening to the spot without their cloaks, in spite of the rain, and several companies of infantry and cavalry followed them as fast as their horses or their feet could carry them. After them came the commandant of the town himself, who, though a general officer of high rank, directed the operations, with the minuteness of an officer of police. " Besides the precaution of the fire-guardian posted on the steeple, the streets are constantly perambulated at night by a watchman, who chants in a dole- ful tone a few admonitory couplets of doggrel, addressed to all fathers of families, whether sleeping or waking, recommending them to be on tiieir guard against fire, and ending with a caution to look sharp after their wives and daughters." The H'oudcutters- — " In walking the streets of a German town, a provoking circumstance is, that frequently a tliird part, or even a half of the street, is rendered useless by heaps of wood, the fuel of the inhabitants. The wood is brought into the city in large pieces, from three to four feet long. A wag- gon load of these logs is laid down on the street, at the door of the purchaser, to be sawn and split into smaller pieces, before being deposited in his cellar. When this occurs, as it often does, at every third or fourth door, the street just loses so much of its breadth. Nothing remains but the centre, and that is constantly swarming with carriages, and carts, and barrows. The pedes- trian must either wind himself Ihrougii among their wheels, or clamber over successive piles of wood, or j)atiently wait till the centre of the street becomes passable for a few yards. To think of doubling the wooden promontory without this precaution is far fiom being safe. You have scarcely, by a sud- den spring, saved your shoulders from the pole of a carriage, when a wheel- barrow makes a similar attack on your legs. You make spring the second, and, in all probability, your head comes in contact with the uplifted hatchet of a woodcutter. The wheel-barrows seem to be the best off. They fill such a middle rank between bi|)eds and quadrupeds, that thay lay claim to the privileges of both, and hold on their way rejoicing, commanding respect equally from men and horses." — Russel'j Tour, Germany. 40. clubs. — 41. German burial-grounds. 205 40. CLUBS. In all the principal German towns, Societies corresponding nearly with a London dub, and known by such names as the Casino, Museum Harmonie, or the like, are to be found. '' They are very rational establishments, fitted up witii a commodious elegance, which make their resources doubly attrac- tive. Tlie reading-rooms arc stocked with a proi'usion of journals, reviews, and pamphlets, literary and political, from all parts of Germany ; besides the French, and sometimes English and Italian newspapers. There is often a library of books of reference, and a conversation room, where talkative quidnuncs may be relieved from the silence prescribed in the reading-rooms, besides billiard-tables and card-rooms, and sometimes a good table-d'hote provided by a rest 3 ( sinen thaler 10 Silver groschen = Is. ith. 6 . 5 . . . = Gd. I'jth, 12 . 2i . . . = Set. ,vii, 24 . = Hd. aVth, a Silver groschen. COPPER MONEY. 12 Pfennings . . . . . 1 S. gr. Pieces of 4, 3, 2, and 1 Pfenninge are coined. Accounts are usually kept in silver groschen (S. gr. ), and care should be taken not to pay in gute groschen an account which may have been made up in Silver gr. The currency of Prussia not only goes in every part of the Prussian domi- nions, but through the wliole of the Nortli of Germany, and as far south as Frankfort and Nassau, where, though florins and kreutzers begin to be the common currency, Prussian coins are still current. The Noriiicrn States, finding tlie inconvenience of so many different kinds of money, have now be- gun to coin pieces of the same value as the Prussian ; thus the Hessian, Ha- noverian, and Brunswick 7ieiu dollars all have the same value as the Prussian, and Hessian Frederick's - Brunswick Wilhelm's — J- d'or, all = 5 dollars 20 S. gros. Hanoverian Georgen's — Prussian gold coins are. Double Frederick d'or = 11 dol. 10 S. gr. = 1/. 13«. 7^rf. or 42 francs. A Frederick d'or = 5 dol. 20 S. gr. = 16s. 9jd. ■; Half Frederick d'or = 2 dol. 25 S. gr. = 8s. 4(/. Gold coins, are, however, scarce in Prussia ; but there is a paper ctirrency, very convenient for carriage, but often very dirty, of Bank notes (kassenan- veisungen), of tiie value of one, Jive, and ^pfty dollars each. " It may be useful to warn English travellers, that the values marked on German coins are very often not the true value by which the coin passes. Thus the double Friedrichs d'or, though worth 11 dollars 10 S. gr. , are in- variably marked X. THALER; and iu Southern Germany tiie silver pieces marked 10 and twenty kreutzers are worth 12 and 24. This singularity has resulted from changes in the currency, but seems as if it were on purpose to deceive the traveller." — L. M. :) Prussia. 45. travelling ; roads. — 46. schxellposts. 209 Value of foreign coins in Prussian dollars and S. • gros . : — DoU. &gT. An English sovereign . = 6 20 shilling = 10 French Louis d'or = 6 10 Napoleon = 5 20 piece of 5 francs . = 1 10 1 franc = 8 Dutch Willem = 10 guilders = 5 20 ducat = 3 o guilder = 17 German Kronthaler (crown) . = 1 16 Convenions thaler = 1 11 Zwanziger, or piece of 24 krs. = 6 45. TRAVELLIKG IK PRUSSIA. ROADS. In no country in Europe, probably, were worse roads to be found than in Prussia, twenty years ago. In that space of time an immense improvement has been cflecte'd ; all the main roads have been macadamized for the greater part of their extent, and are almost equal to the best in England. Down to 1814, the only good road was that from Berlin to Magdeburg; every where else, the traveller was conducted through, rather than over, a wide, irregular tract of loose sand, which obtained the name of road merely because it was traversed by vehicles of all sorts, not because any thing had ever been done to fit it for their passage. Into this the carriage sunk at once up to the axle trees, and the postilion displayed less anxiety to advance than to make tlie wheels exactly fit the ruts of those which had preceded it. The present generation of travellers are relieved from this inconvenience, thanks to the adoption of a new system of pouts et chaussees, and to the ac- tivity of ]M. Von Nagler, the postmaster-general, a most enlightened minister. Under his judicious management, the macadamizing system has been carried to great perfection throughout the Prussian dominions, and between 1814 and 1827, 877 German miles of good macadamized roads, called Kunst Strassen, (i. e. roads made by art,) or Chavssten, were constructed, and as improvements in the highways are constantly proceeding, the number of miles of good road must by this time be one fourth greater. The principal routes, emanating from Berlin, and extending to the farthest corners of Prussia, are, 1, to Luxemburg by Halle, Cassel, Coblenz, Treves ; 2, to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Halle, Cassel, Elberfield, and Cologne ; 3, to WeseJ, and the frontier of Holland, by Minden and Munster ; 4, from Ais-la-Cha- pellc to Treves, and Saar Louis, along the Belgic frontier, which seems to have been constructed for military, ratlier than commercial objects ; 5, to Konigsberg, on the way to St. Petersburg, at present undergoing great im- provements, one of which has been to shorten the journey by 15 German miles ; 6, to Posen, on the way to Warsaw, not yet finished. 46. SCHNELIPOSTS. The Prussian mail-coaches are called schnellposts (i 33.) ; they are generally well managed, being under the direction of the government, and the coach- office and post-office are usually in the same building ; they go at the rate of about six miles an hour on an average, and are on the whole roomy and comfortable vehicles. The usual cost of travelling by them is 9 or 10 S. gr. per German mile, including postilions and every thing else. It is entirely optional to give any thing to the conducteur. The passport, properly signed, 210 47. POSTixG. Sect. IV. must be shown before a place can be taken, and the fare must be paid beforehand ; a receipt is given in acknowledgment of it. The Prussian coaches have no outside places ; and no difTerence is made in the price of the front or back part of the carriage, as is done in France. The places are all numbered, and those who apply first have the corner seats. In most cases, when all the places in the coach are taken, a traveller will be forwarded in a bj-e-chaise, which starts at the same time, even if there be only one person to be conveyed in it. Smoking is not allowed, unless the passen- gers themselves permit it. The allowance of luggage is very small, indeed, too small ; usually, only SO lbs. may be taken free of expense, and 20 lbs. more by paying for it. The regulations esjjecting over-weight (§ 36.) are very strictly enforced at the Prussian post-offices. Even' article is weighed before it is placed on the coach, and a heavy charge is made for extra weight. Large wooden boxes are generally rejected, and must be sent by the Packwagen. The luggage must be conveyed to the office one hour before the coach starts, in order to be weighed and packed. Each package must bear the name and address of the owner. Great care is taken of the luggage the moment it lias been con- signed to the post-office, and the porters belonging to the establishment will convey it to, and from, the owner's lodgings. Tiiroughout the Prussian dominions, at every inn or post-house where the Schnellpost stops, a room, called Passagier Stube, is provided for the recep- tion of passengers, where they can obtain such refreshments as bread and butter (butterbrod), a sandwich, and a cup of coffee. A tariff fixing the prices of refreshments is hung up in the traveller's room, and a control-book is kept for entering complaints, should it be found necessary. 47. rOSTIXG, OR EXTRA-POST. (§ 32.) The posting establishments of Prussia are also managed by the government, and are very well conducted. The postmasters are a verj' respectable class of men, often retired officers : in any dispute with postilions, &c., the traveller may generally refer to them with safety. Travellers have seldom to wait at the station for horses, even on the less frequented roads. The expense of posting is less than in France. At every stage tlie post-master presents a printed ticket (zeltet), including the charge for horses according to the num- ber j greasing wheels (schmeir-geld), ostler (wagen-meister), and tolls (chaus- s^e geld), \vhich must be paid in advance before setting out. Every horse costs 12^ S. gr. per German mile, in the provinces bordering on the Rhine, and in AVestphalia. In other parts of Prussia the charge is only 10 S. gr. The number of horses depends so much upon the quantity of baggage, number of persons, and state of the roads, that it is difficult to fix them by the description of carriage ; but as a general rule, a light caleche, open ba- rouche, or britzka, holding four or five persons, with little baggage, requires only three horses ; with fewer than four persons, two horses will suffice. Fewer than three liorses are never attached to a close carriage, chariot, lan- dau, or berline. If the postilion cannot drive from the box, a tiiird horse must be taken for him to ride on. Postilions' Trinligeld. — The postilion is entitled by the tariff to receive, in the Rhenish provinces, for two or three horses, .5 S. gr. ; for four, 7^ S. gr. ; and for five, 10 S. gr. per German mile. In the other parts of Prussia, the postilions' trinkgeld varies from S| to 5 S. gr. per German mile. Six or more horses require two postilions. The postilion is not allowed to ask for any thing above the tariff. Prussia. 48. tolls. — 49. ixxs. 211 The wealthy Germans themselves usually pay a postilion double the sum allowed by the tariff, or, For 2 or 3 horses ... 1 German mile 10 or 12 S. gr. 4 ... ... 18 to 20 ... One postilion is allowed to drive as many as five horses, but he is paid in proportion to the number. Post Caliches. — Travellers not having a carriage of their own, can be ac- commodated with a caleche (equivalent to our post-chaise, but open, and not equally clean) at every post-station. The charge for such a carriage, per stage, varies from 7f to 10 S. gr. 48. TOLLS. In Prussia turnpikes occur at intervals of half a German mile, but in posting, all charges for roads and barriers are included in the postmaster's ticket, and paid to him — a great convenience. 49. INNS. Travellers in Prussia are protected by a regulation of the police from the impositions of innkeepers, who are compelled to hang up in every apartment, or at least in the public room, a tariff, or list of charges, for lodging, food, fuel, servants, valets-de-place, &c. This is inspected periodically by a proper officer, who regulates the price of each article, and ascertains that none of the charges are exorbitant. 212 ROUTES in Rhenish Prussia. IIOUTE XXXIV. THE RHINE (B. ) FROM KYMEGEN TO COLOGNE. * *j^* For general information re- specting the Rhine below Cologne, read Route XII. p. 71. The steamer sets off on the as- cent of the Rhine very early in the morning. Passports must be shown on quitting Nymegen. About S miles above Nymegen (a voyage of two hours), the two branches of tlie Rhine — the Waal, which we have hitherto followed, and the Lower Rhine, or Lek, unite. Before enter- ing the undivided stream, it is worth while to give some little attention to the hydraulic works erected on the apex of the delta. They consist of dams, dykes, and jetties, constructed of earth, and faced witli vsicker work, ■which are thrown up, along tlie shore or into the Rhine, to regulate its course and the direction of its waters, the object in view being so to dis- tribute its current, that in all states of its flood, both when high and wlien low, g of the water which it brings down may be conveyed into the "NVaal, and only i into the Lek. It is the duty, therefore, of the water- engineers to watch every variation of the current and level of the Rhine, and to guard against changes and preserve the equilibrium, by con- stantly throwing out new works. Tliese constructions are of the high- est importance ; since, in point of fact, the physical existence of Holland in a great degree depends on them : and had not the necessary precautions been taken to strengthen tliem in 1774, the country would in all proba- bility have been overwhelmed by the nundations which occurred in 1784. At a place called Aart a dam is drawn across an ancient arm of the Rhine, strengthened by the Dutch with tliick plantittions of willows. It is intended that tliis abandoned chan- nel should serve as a safety-valve in case of very great increase in tlie waters of the Rhine ; and by a con- vention with tlie Prussian govern- ment, it is settled that, when the water of the Rhine attains a certain height at the gauge at Arnhem, thuy shall be allowed an outlet tiirougli this dam. This is by no means an impossible contingency ; and were it to happen, the dam would be washed away in five minutes after the water had begun to flow over it, and a new passage would be opened for the Rhine to the sea. The frontier of Holland and Prus- sia is marked by the situation of (r.) Lobith. Opposite Lobith, Schen- kenschanze, a strong fortress, once considered the key of the Nether- lands, was taken by Frederick Henry Prince of Orange, 1636, and by Tu- renne, 1672. (1.) The spires and towers of Cleve may be seen near this, at a little dis- tance from the river. (r.) Emmeuich.'' Kiipper's Inn is the best. Tiiis is the first Prussian town ; it has 5000 inhabitants, and considerable manufactures. The steamer is here boarded by the custom-house ofKcers, who, however, are contented with a very slight inspection of the baggage rOST ROAD. NYMKGEN TO DOSSELDOHF, BY THE RIGHT BANK OF THE RHINE. 8 Dutch Post"!, and ISJ Prussian Miles = 78^ English Miles. This road is very bad ; very little of it is chaussuf. Dutch Posts ' \\ Arnhem (Route V.) ' 1 J Klten —a pretty view— a bad Inn. (M) Prussian miles. . •* 1 Emmerich ; a diligence goes hence daily to Dusscldorf, and tliricc a week to Utrecht. ■' 2i Rees. Inn, Krone. ^ 3i Wcsel. '' 'J Dinslakcn. ' 24 Duisberg (Drusibcrgum of the Ro- mans.) ** .5j Dusseldorf. Rhenish Prussia, route XXXIV. — nymegen to cologne. 213 of a traveller, and passports are vis^- by the police (§ 42, 43.) which usually causes a stoppage of one or two hours. (r. ) Bees.* A small town. (1.) Xanten, distinguished by its double-spired church (seep. 216), lies at a short distance from the Rhine, whicli appears to have flowed close to it in former times. The ancient bed is distinctly traceable. (r. ) Wesel. - Inns: that kept by Dornbusch is the best ; Konig von Preussen dear and bad. This is a fortress of the 1st class, forming the bulwark of Prussia on its N.W. frontier; it lies at the junc- tion of the Lippe with the Rhine : and has 13,200 inhabitants, including the garrison. The citadel is situated to the south of tlie town. The Rfitlihaits is a handsome build- ing. The town carries on a consider- able trade with Holland, and its commerce has increased since the Lippe was made navigable. Much wood and salt are transported out of "Westphalia, by that river. The Rhine is here divided into two branches by the island of Biiderich, also fortified by block-houses, and is crossed by a bridge of boats. A monument has been erected near Wesel, to the Prussian officers en- gaged in Scliill's revolt at Stralsund, who were mercilessly sliot here by the French, 1809. (1.) Immediately opposite Wesel, lies Fort Bhtcher, formerly called Fort Napoleon, wliile it l)elonged to the French. A small town was swept away to make room for it, and has since been re-built about three miles ott". (1.) Orsoy. (r. ) Ruhrort, at the opening of the Ruhr into the Rhine, serves as the depot for the coals brought down the Ruhr from the coal-fields on its banks. The consumption of coals is enormously increased since tlie Bel- gian revolution, as Holland now ob- tains from this quarter part of the supply which she previously derived from Liege. There are very large boat-builders' yards here. Near the lower (E.) end of the town is a con- siderable castle. (I.) Urdingen, marked by the poplars round it. At Eichelskamp, near this, the French revolutionary army, under Le Febrc, 25,000 strong, first crossed the Rhine, 1795, and by violating the neutrality of the Prussian territory on the opposite bank, turned the position of the Austrians. (r.) Kaiserswerth, originally as its name implies an island, was long the residence of the German emperors. Pepin de Heristal built a castle here; from which the Emperor Henry IV., when a child twelve years of age, was secretly carried off from liis mother Agnes, by Ilanno Archbishop of Co- logne. There still exist remains of a more recent castle, built by the Em- peror Frederick I. The Church, da- ting from the XI Ilth century, contains the shrine of St. Suibert, an English monk, who is said to have preached Christianity here in the VII Ith cen- tury. (r.) DussELnonF.s Inns: Breiten- bacher Ilof, good, but far from the Rhine ; Drei Reichskronen (Three Imperial Crowns), a very comfortable house, and nearest to the landing place of the steamers ; H(5tel de deux Ponts, or Zweibriicker Hof Dussel- dorf, capital of the Ducliy of Berg, is situated on the light bank of the Rhine, here about 1 200 feet broad, and tra- versed by a flying bridge ; and at the junction of the small river Dussel, which gives its name to the town. It has 25,000 inhabitants ; and was a fortified town up to the period of the peace of Luneville; but at pre- sent is surrounded by gardens and pleasant walks in the place of ram- parts. It is the residence of Prince Frederick of Prussia ; and seat of the Provincial Estates, or Parliament of the Rhenish Provinces. The town is divided into three quarters : the Alstadt, with narrow 214 ROUTE XXXIV. — NYArEGEN TO COLOGNE. Scct. IV. and dirty streets ; the Carlstadt and the Neustadt, ^vhich are the finest quarters. Dusseldorf, though a neat town, contains nothing remarkable at pre- sent. One wing alone remains of the Palace, built by the Elector, John AVilliam, whose statue stands in the market-place, on horseback. The main edifice, with many other build- ings, was destroyed by the bombard- ment of the French, 1794. In former times it contained the famous collec- tion of pictures, now removed to ISlu- nich. One large painting of inferior excellence, the Ascension of the Vir- gin, by Riibetis, was alone left behind. The pictures which now fill the gal- lery are not good for much, with the exception of some works of modern artists. Dusseldorf is at present the scat of a school of painting, which, curiously enough, has had its rise since the removal of the picture gallery. It was founded in 1828, under the di- rection of Cornelius (a native of the town), in whose studio many clever artists have formed themselves. In the historical branch of art, it leaves that of England very far behind. There is a good collection of draw- ings and engravings attached to the gallerj-, and below it is the public library. The Hrfgarlen is a very agreeable promenade. Tiiere is a Theatre here, and music is very much cultivated. Schnellposts (§ 46.) run from this, to Berlin, Cassel, Elberfeld, (Route LXIV. ) Minden,and Aix-la- Cliapelle : and a Falirpost to Mun- Stcrand Osnabruck. (Route LXVI.) Steam-boats go daily in summer up and down the Rhine. In ascending they sometimes stop here for the "ight. Dusseldorf derives its chief im- portance and prosperity from its si- tuation on the Rhine ; it serves as a port for the merchandise sent from the industrious manufacturing dis- tricts of the duchy of Berg. Cottons and cloths are brought down hither from Elberfeld, iron ware from Soh- lingen, and lime-stone from Ratingeu, to be shipped and exported. The mansion of Count Spec, at Hellerdorf, about twelve miles from Dusseldorf, contains four frescos by modern German artists of great ex- cellence ; admirable specimens of the style and promise of the existing school of Germany. — 1. Is the Inter- view of Pope Alexander III. and the Emperor, in St. Mark's, Venice, by Cornelius- — 2. Henry the Lion, the head of the Guelphic party, submit- ting to the Emperor Barbarossa 3. The humiliation of the Milanese to Barbarossa, botli by M'dcke, and — 4. Barbarossa seizing with liis own hand the Saracen Standard, by Les- sing. It takes eighteen hours to reach Dusseldorf in ascending from Ny- megen by steam-boat. A good mac- adamized post-road now exists between Dusseldorf and Aix-la-Chapelle. The chateau of the Duke D'Arnsberg, above Dusseldorf, was burnt 1830'. (1.) Soon after quilting* Dussel- dorf, the steeple of Neuss is visible. Drusus is said to have thrown a bridge over the Rhine here : at present there is a flying bridge at Hetdorf. (rt. ) Benrath, a handsome chateau, built by the electors of Cleve and Berg, and inhabited by Murat, while grand duke, is seen at a distance. The Rhine winds so much between Cologne and Dusseldorf as to render the distance by water about one-fourth greater than that by land. (1.) Cologne'^- (\n RouteXXXVI.) In descending the lihine from Co- logne to Rotterdam, the steamer takes twenty-two hours, including * Post^oad. — Dusseldorf to Cologne, 5f Prussian Miles = 27 English Miles. " 24 Laiigenfeld. '» 34 Opladen. " l| Muhlhcim. 10 miles off is the beau- tiful abbey of Altenberg — See lloute LXV. '- J Cologne. Ithenish Prussia, route XXXV. — nymegen to cologxe. 215 stoppages, ■which are numerous. It reaches Nymegen at seven in the evening, in fourteen hours, setting out at five A.M. The passage money is 7 dollars 24 S. gr. (1/. 3*. 6d..) From Nymegen to Rotterdam it goes in eight hours: fare, 4 gul. (6«. 8(/.) Tlie steamer sometimes takes the Lek brandi of tiie river, and stops for the night at JArnhem (p. 60), which place it reaches in twelve hours from Cologne. Here passports are revised. ROUTE XXXV. KTMEGZN TO COLOOKE, ET GELDERX OR XAXTEN. By Geldem the distance is 18^ Prussian miles = 87f English miles. A Schnellpost goes daily in about eighteen hours. The route by Xan- ten is about 7 miles longer. About six miles from Nymegen the Dutch frontier is passed, and the Prussian custom-house (§ 43.) is reached, at 14 Kranenburg. Before entering Cleves the road passes through the beautiful park called the Thiergarten. 1^ Cleves. Inns : H. Bellevue, very good, commands a fine view ; Hotel zum Thiergarten affords good accommodation at a reasonable price. Konig von Preussen, Cleves is distant about 2§ miles from the Rhine, but is connected with it by a canal : it has 7500 inhabitants, and is capital of the duchy of Cleves, an ancient possession of the house of Prussia. It is built upon three gentle hills, and perhaps received its name from the Latin word clivum, a slope. The country around is charm- ing from its beauty and fertility, and the pleasing variety of hills and val- leys clothed with wood and verdure. The old Castle, called the Schivan- enhurg, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Cleves, in which the Ill- fated Anne was born, whom Henry VIII. termed "a Flanders mare," is now converted into public offices. The oldest part of it is a massive and picturesque tower 180 ft. high, built 1439, on the top of a rock, and over- looking the country far and wide. There is a most extensive view from it. It derives its name of Swan's Tower from a traditional story of a strange knight, who appeared to a Duchess of Cleves in a vessel drawn by a swan ; she fell in love with him, and married him, but after ten years the swan returned, and bore him away from his wife, who never saw him more. The tale forms the sub- ject of one of Mr. Southey's poems. The PrimeiJiof is a handsome build- ing, erected by John Maurice, Prince of Nassau Siegen, now occupied by the Count von der Lippe : on the op posite side of the canal is the King's garden, laid out by the same Prince ; and at Berg and Thai, two miles oflfj on the road to Xanten, within a grove of trees, is his iron tomb. The Thier- garten is an agreeable pleasure ground containing a mineral spring, and com- manding a fine view. From Cleves to Crefeld, and some distance be- yond, the road was very bad in 1837. 1| Goch. A bad road to Crefeld. Ij Kevalaer. 1^ Geldern. Inn: Schwarzer Al- der. 3600 inhabitants. 1§ Altenkirchen. 2\ Ckefeld. Inns : Rheinischer Hof; — Wilder Mann. A flourishing town of 18,000 in- habitants, with spacious streets and j handsome houses, which, by their neatness, give to this place all the appearance of a Dutch town. It owes its prosperity to the manufac- tures of silk and velvet, which em- ploy 6000 persons. A great part of the silk goods introduced into Eng- land as French are in fact manu- factured here, and are equal in quality to the French. The annual produce of the looms amounts to four millions of dollars. '2\ Neuss. Inns : Romischer Kai- ser ;^Rheinischer Hof. It is supposed to be the Novesium of the Romans, 216 ROUTE XXXVI. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. SeCt. IV. and to have been built by Drusus, who threw a bridge over the Rliine here. The gate of the town leading to Co- logne is still called the Driisus Thor, The town is mentioned by Tacitus ; in his time it lay close to the Rhine, which at present Hows at a distance of 14 mile from it. It has 7000 in- habitants. The Church of St. Quiiinus is a splendid Gothic edifice of a peculiar structure, built in the Xlllth cen- tury, and worthy of examination. Leaving Neuss, the road traverses the abandoned bed of the Rhine. 2 Dormagen. 2| Cologne, in Route XXXVI. Between Cleves and Neuss the traveller has the choice of another road, but it is longer than the pre- ceding ; is very sandy in parts, and appears to possess no advantage over it. It passes, 1| Calcarberg. 2 XANTEx(Inn: Nieder-Rheinis- cher Hof), a town of 3400 inhabitauts, the Castra Vetera of the Romans. Julius Cffisar is said to have built a fort here, and the Prajtorian camp of Varus, from which he led the Roman legions across the Rhine, was on tlie neighbouring hill called Fiirstenberg. According to the legend, the Emperor Maximin caused St. Gereon and the Tiieban Legion to be executed here, because they had become Christians. A part of their bones are preserved in the Golhic Clnirck of St. Victor, which is a very ancient and beautiful structure, well worth notice. It is in the pointed style of architecture (date 138;;), except the W. front, probably built 1128. The country around affords abundant traces of its ancient masters, in the variety of Roman antiquities every day brought to light. There is a very extensive collection of them here, belonging to Mr. Ilouben, a notary. At Xanten stood the cas- tle of the Niebelungen, the heroes of the old German Epic, and here Sieg- fried, the slayer of the dragon, was born, according to it. Beyond Xan- ten the road is heavy sand and gravel ; it passes by the scarcely distinguish- able site of a Roman amphitheatre. Ij Griinthal. 1 Rheinberg, formerly a strong for- tress, had the honoar to be captured by Louis XIV. in person. U Meurs. 1^ Urdingen, in p. 213. 1 Crefeld to Cologne, Vjr German miles. ROUTE XXXVL AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGKE. 9^^ Prussian miles = 435 Eng. miles. Aix-la-Chapelle( Germ. Aachen). Inns : Le Grand Monarque, chez Dremel, good ; — Dragon d'Or, good ; — Hotel de la Rose. Tliere are daily tables-d'hote at most of the hotels, which are usually well served, and numerously attended. The Rhei- nischer Hof, and Thurmchen (Tou- relle), are good second-class inns, conveniently situated near the post- office, and the office where the Bel- gian diligences stop. Living at the inns here is expensive j the price of the baths is also high. The passports of travellers who have just entered Prussia from the Belgian frontier are always taken away here, and strictly examined by the authorities : those who are pressed for time and do not intend to stop here, had better go for tliem at once to tlie police-office in tlie Hotel de Ville, whither they are invariably con- veyed : it is necessary to apply for them in person. Those who have neglected to secure previously a Prus- sian signature on the passport, will be liable to considerable delay. § 42. Aix-la-Chapelle, a town of 37,800 inhabitants, was known to the Ro- mans under the name of Aquis Grani. The warm springs were a sufficient inducement to fix that bath-loving people on the spot, and remains of their baths are constantly found in iliggi'ig- It is to Charlemagne, how. Rhenish Prussia, itouxE XXXVI. — aix-la-chapelle. 217 ever, tliat the city owed its eminence. He was born here, as some conjecture, and without doubt died here, 814. He raised it to the rank of second city in his Empire, and made it capi- tal of his dominions N. of the Alps, appointing it the place of coronation for the German Emperors his suc- cessors. In the middle ages it flourished with the privileges of a Free Imperial City, and attained great eminence in its manufactures, especially in that of cloth, for which it is celebrated, even to the present day. In later times it lias been distin- guished by the Congresses held here — 1. In 1668, when a treaty of peace was concluded between France and Sjiain ; — 2. In 1748, when a general peace was signed by the sovereigns of Europe; and — 3. In 1818, at which the Emperors of Austria and Russia, and King of Prussia, were present in person, and Ambassadors were sent from George IV. and Louis XV'III. to decide on the evacuation of France by the Allied armies. After the peace of Paris, Aix was separated from France, to which it had been united by Napoleon, and added to the dominions of the King of Prussia. By the handsome new streets and fine buildings erected since that event, as well as by the increase of population, it appears to be returning to its ancient prosperity. Since the days of the Romans and Cliarlemagne, it has been celebrated as a watering-place, and is annually frequented by many thousand visiters. The H6lel tie 'vil/c ( Rathhaus), in the great market-place, is a vast and somewhat imposing building. Strangers cannot fail to become ac- quainted with it, as they are required to repair thither to have their pass- ports signed in tlie Police Office, si- tuated in the left wing, near a small tower, said erroneously to be of Ro- man origin, and called the Tower of Granii)!. The Rathhaus occupies the site of the palace in which Cliarle- magne was born ; it is remarkable as the place of meeting of the two Con- gresses of 1748 and 1818. In the grand saloon on the second floor, where the conferences were held, are shown some bad pictures of the mem- bers of the congress collectively, and some equally Ijad portraits of the mi- nisters and sovereigns who assisted at them ; among them, that of Lord Sandwich, the English minister, is conspicuous. The smaller room on the same floor was occupied by Sir Thomas Lawrence as a painting-room in 1818, while painting the portraits of the sovereigns and other eminent persons then assembled, for the gal- lery at Windsor. In the centre of the square is a fountain, surmounted by the bronze statue of the Emperor Charlemagne. It appears to have been erected at the same tmie as the Rathhaus, in 1.353. The J)om Kirchc (^Cathedral) con- sists of two parts erected at different times, in different styles. The nave, or octagon, with round arches, stands on the spot where Charlemagne had_ erected (796—804) " the chapel," after which the city was named. He designed it to be a burial-place for himself, causing it to be constructed in an octagonal form, in imitation of the holy sepulchre at Jerusalem. It was consecrated by Pope Leo III. " with a cereiTiony worthy of its splen- dour. Three hundred and sixty- five archbishops and bishops were to he present at the solemnity ; but, unluckily, two were missing, and there is no knowing what might have resulted if two reverend prelates of Tongres, quietly reposing in their graves at IVJaestricht, had not been so kind as to walk out and supply the vacant seats at the ceremony. So says the tradition of the place." — Autumn near the Rliine. The ori- ginal Church was destroyed by the Noimans, and rebuilt in its present form by the Einjjcror Otho III. in 983, no doubt partly in conformity with the ancient plan, and perhaps 218 ROUTE XXXVI. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. Sect. IV. with the old materials ; it is decidedly one of the oldest buildings in Ger- many. The position of the Tomb, in which once reposed the mortal remains of Charlemagne, is marked by a large slab of marble under the centre of the dome, inscribed with the words " Ca- ROLO Magno." a massive brazen chandelier hangs above it, the gift of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. The vault below is now empty, having been opened by the Emperor Otho in 997. He found the body of Charle- magne not reclining in his coffin, as is the usual fashion of the dead, but seated in his throne as one alive, clothed in the imperial robes, bearing tlie sceptre in his hand, and on his knees a copy of the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was the cro«n, the impe- rial mantle covered his shoulders, the sword joyeuse was by his side, and tlie pilgrim's pouch, which he had borne always while living, was still fastened to his girdle. All these venerable relics were removed, and used in the coronation ceremonies of succeeding Emperors of Germany, They are now de|)osited at Vienna. The throne, in ■which the body of Charlemagne was seated, alone remains j it is placed in the gallery running round the octa- gon, facing the choir. It is an arm- chair, in shape somewhat like that of Edward the Confessor, in West- minster Abbey, but made of slabs of vhite marble, which, during the co- ronation, were covered with plates of gold. It is now protected by wooden boards, which the sacristan will remove to satisfy a stranger's curiosity. The front of the gallery was originally adorned with :5'2 pillars of granite and porphyry, brought by Charlemagne from the Exarch's Pa- lace at Ravenna, and partly from the East : these were somewhat wan- tonly removed by the French, and as only a part of them have been re- turned from Paris, they have not been replaced. In front of some of the side chapels may be seen small models in coarse wax, of arms, legs, and other parts of the human body, hung up as votive offerings l)y poor people, who believe that maladies in their limbs have been cured by the interposition of the Saint to whose altars they de- dicate these gifts. In the side chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, stands an antique sarcophagus of Parian mar- ble, the work of Roman or Greek artists, ornamented with a line bas- relief of the Rape of Proserpine: the feet of the dead Charlemagne origin- ally rested in it, within his tomb. The Choir, a more modern addition, begun in 1353, finished 1413, "is of prodigious height (114 ft.) and light- ness, having the appearance of a stu- pendous lantern, all of glass." It contains a pulpit, covered with plates of silver gilt, richly ornamented with carvings in ivory, and precious stones : this is concealed, however, as well as protected, by a wooden case, which the assistance of the sacristan will remove. IVIary Queen of Scots presented the image of the Virgin over the altar, with a crown of gold, which is still preserved in the trea- sury. The only paintings worth notice are, an ancient piece attributed to Master William of Cologne, and an altiir-picce of merit by Luiresse. The Emperor Otho III. is buried beneatli the high altar. The Treasury of the church is very rich in relics, some of which are con- sidered so sacred that a priest must be summoned to display them. The others, called the Pelites Reliques, are shown by the sacristan. Among them are several curiosities not ap- pertaining to saints, such as the skull of Charlemagne, enclosed in a silver case, something like a barber's block, and his arm-bone, both taken, it is said, from his grave, and the only fragn)ents of his body remaining in the church, all the rest having been carried off as relics. It is recorded of Charlemagne that he was of tall stature, and this we find confirmed by the immense length and thick- Bhenisli Prussia, route XXXVI. — Arx-LACHAPELLE. 219 ness of the arm-bone here preserved ; but, unluckily, it has lately been discovered by a gentleman whose knowledge of anatomy leaves no room for doubting the fact, that the bone is no arm at all, but a leg-bone, or tibia ! Besides these are the hunting- liorn of Charlemagne, formed of an elephant's tusk ; also a locket of the Virgin's hair, and a piece of the true cross, two relics which he wore round his neck, in his grave, as well as while alive. The leather gir- dle of Christ (on which may still be seen the impression of Charlemagne's seal), the cord which bound the rod which smote him, a nail of the Cross, the sponge which was filled with vinegar ; the arm of Simeon, on which he bore the infant Jesus; some of the blood and bones of St. Stephen, some manna from the Wilderness, and some bits of Aaron's rod, are still preserved here ; (it was upon these relics that the Emperor of Germany s«ore at his coronation.) The Grandes Reiiques are publicly shown to the people only once in seven years, from the 15th to 27th of July. So sacred was this cere- mony held, and so high was the privilege esteemed of obtaining a glimpse of them, that in former times no fewer than 150,000 pilgrims re- sorted to the spot from all parts on this occasion ; and even so lately as in 1832, the last anniversary, the number of pious visiters exceeded 43,0OO. These relics were presented to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Aaron king of Persia. They are deposited in a rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of artists of the ninth century, and consist of — I. Tlie robe worn by the Virgin at the Nativity ; it is of cotton, five feet long. — 2. The swaddling- clothes in which Jesus was wrapped ; they are of cloth, as coarse as sacking, of a yellow colour. — 3. The cloth on which the head of John the Baptist was laid. — 4. The scarf worn by our Saviour at the Crucifixion, bearing stains of blood. Intermixed with these religious reiiques are many curious antique gems, some Babylonian cy- linders, and the like, which serve as jewels to ornament the saintly trea- sury. The fee for seeing all these wonders amounts to about lO^. En- glish. The Church of St. Nicholas, or of the Recollets, contains over the high altar three good pictures, by Diejten- back, of the Crucifixion. In St. Michael's, or the Jesuits', is a fine Descent from the Cross, by G. Hont- horst. The Fountain of Elisa (Elisen- brunnen) is a very handsome edifice, with a colonnade ; it serves the pur- pose of a pump-room, and has a caf^ attached to it, elegantly fitted up. The guests, or visiters, repair hither early in the morning to drink the water, which, though conducted in pipes direct from the Emperor's spring, retains a temperature of 4S° Reaumur. A band of excellent nmsic plays at the spot, and breakfasts or dinners are provided in the apartments adjoining the spring. The building is named after the Crown Princess of Prussia. The mineral sjrrings of Aix rise in the centre of the town ; they arc of two classes. The upper, which are the strongest and hottest ; the lower, which are weaker and cooler. In the first class the principal spring is the Source de C Empereur ; it contains a larger quantity of sulphur than any other known in Europe ; and when the vapour arising from it is con- fined, and net allowed to escape, it deposits crystals of sulphur. It has a temperature of 143^ Fahrenheit, and owes its disagreeable taste to the presence of super-sulphuretted hydro- gen gas. This and the two contiguous sources supply — 1. The Bain de F Empcreur, situated in the street called ihe Biichel, and containing twenty baths, comfort- ably and handsomely fitted up. — 2. The Bain Neuf. — 3. JJain de la L 2 220 ROUTE XXXVI. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. Sect. IV. Jicine d' Hoiigrie. — 4. Jiain SI. Quirin, having only 38° Reaumur. So great is the heat of tliese springs that the waste water allowed to escape through the sewers of the town is em- ployed by the common people to wash their linen ; and it not only saves them the expense of fuel, hut also of soap, since the natron or alkaline salt contained in it supplies its place. It may be observed, that linen ^vashed in the water acquires so disagreeable an odour, that strangers will repent if they allow their clothes to be subjected to it. The baths supplied by the lower spring, situated in the street called Comphausbad are, 1. Le Bain de In Hose. Both the hotel and baths have recently been fitted up anew. — 2. Bain St. Corneille. — 3. Bain St. Charles. — 4. Comphausbad, appropri- ated to the use of the poor. All the bath-houses are the property of the town, and are let to tenants: they contain lodgings, and are pretty much on a par. The New Redoule, or Gaming- house, in the Comphausbad-Strasse, corresponds with what in other water- ing places is called the Kursaal. The lower story is occupied by print and music shops, by a restaurant, and a reading-room, where the principal European newspapers are to be found. In the grand suite of apart- ments, balls are given once or twice a-week during the season, but they are principally devoted to gambling. Games of hazard, rouge et noir, &c., are carried on in them, not only by- night but by day, from half-past 11 in the morning till 2, and from half- past 9 in the evening till 12. The tables are open to all comers except the inhabitants of the town and officers in the Prussian army, who are ex- pressly forbidden by a police order to play at the tables, and a (jolice officer is stationed in each room to prevent the infringement of this law. Tlie rooms are principally frequented at noon, and after the theatre is over. Before 10 r. >r. the lowest stake al- lowed is a thaler. Public gaming tables are tolerated in no other spot in the Prussian dominions ; and are only suffered here, in consideration of the benefit which the town derives from the number of strangers which they annually attract, and who would re- sort elsewhere if they were prohibited. The tables are let out to a company, who are compelled to apply a large portion of their gains to the improve- ment of the town, and the walks in the neighbourhood. The manufacture of cloth, the most important in Aix-la-Chapelle, em- ploys 3000 individuals in the town ; and more than 12,000 in it and its immediate neighbourhood are occu- pied in preparing the wool. There are about 1000 needlemakers in the town, and it contains a large manu- factory of spinning machinery. Nearly 50 large factories are in activity at Aix and Burtscheid. The New Theatre is a very large handsome building, situated between the Boulevard and the Tlieater- Strasse, leading to Borcette. The Boulevard above alluded to is a pleasant promenade, occupying the place of the levelled ditch and walls of the town, prettily laid out, shaded by fine trees, and varied by sheets of water, &c. Within a few years a new town has risen up just at the gates of Aix, and has proved a dangerous rival, drawing oft' a portion of the company who re- sort hither every year. This is Borcette (German, Burt- scheid), a small town of 5000 inha- bitants, situated about half a mile from the gates of Aix, and connected with it by an avenue of trees. Per- sons intending to take the waters, and desiring retirement, will find this a more agreeable place of residence than Aix ; it is at the same time far less exjjensive. The situation is less agreeable than Aix, sunk between two hills, and its houses less splen- did. Rhenish Prussia. route XXXVI. — borcette — Aix. 221 Inns. — Bain tie la Rose (Rosenbad bey Stephani), a very good hotel, pro- vided with convenient baths, a good cuisine, and a daily table-d'hute. Le Bain de I'Ep^e, an old castle converted into an hotel, is also praised as clean and comfortable, and at the same time very moderate ; the abonne- ment for board and lodging, includ- ing breakfast, dinner, and supper, is less than 5 fr. per day. The principal source, called Fon- taine bouillante, Kochbrunncn, is hotter than any at Aix ; it has a temperature of 55° Reaumur = 156*^ Fahrenheit, but in its qualities it has no essential difference from those of Aix. It rises in the open air, in the middle of the principal street. Burt- sclieid also contains springs of another class, furnishing saline water not un- like that of \Viesbaden. The foun- tain for drinking (Trinkquelle) lies at the extremity of the avenue of frees leading into the town, not far from the Rosenbad. The environs abound in beautiful ■walks : one of them leads to the ruined castle oi' Frankenberg. About half a mile out of Aix, exactly on the opposite side to Bor- cette, is the hill called the Louisberg, or Lousbcrg. " Between four and five o'clock, gaily dressed groups of company re- pair to the Louisberg. It is a bold sandy hill rising abruptly just above the ramparts of the town, the view from which overlooks the city and the rich valley beneath, and stretches over the neighbouring hills and fertile pastures to a range of even mountains M'hicli bound the horizon towards Germany. The scene of attraction on the hill is a large tavern, with a hand- some saloon, commanding a noble prospect. JIusic, dancing, smoking, tea-drinking, walks in the gardens, &c., occupy the various descriptions of guests : and the scene has few features of diflerence from our places of cockney rendezvous near London, except the character of the company ; who, instead of being worthy cits with fat spouses, are often a gay assem- blage of counts, barons, generals, and diplomatists, of various nations and qualities." The CaflTee on the Lous- berg was burnt down in 1836. — Aulumn near the Rliine. In nearly the same direction is a very pretty private garden, called Kaisersruhe. Carriages for hire are expensive at Aix ; between four and six dollars are asked per diem. Conveyances.—- From Aix-la-Cha- pelle there are diligences (private en- terprise) to Liege, Brussels, and all parts of Belgium and France. There are two roads to Liege — by Batice, which is the shortest, and by Verviers, which is more agreeable, but longer. —II. XXV. and XXVL The office of the Belgian diligences is next door to the Post Office, There are schnellposts belonging to the Prussian government (§ 46) twice a day to Cologne, daily to Dus- seldorf, and to Treves by the new road. (Route XLIIL) A schnellpost runs, morning and evening, from Aix-la-Chapelle to Co- logne. The journey occupies between eight and nine hours. A lohnkutscher (§ 34) will charge between six and seven thaicrs, and will take a whole day on the road. The road is most uninteresting, and not very good. A second line of road passes through Eschweiler and Uiiren. About two miles out of Aix, on the right of the road, is the chateau of Kalkofen, in which General Elliot, the brave defender of Gibraltar, died, having killed himself, it is said, by an excessive use of the waters. 32 Jiii.iERs (German, Julich). Inn : Drei Kiiningen — civil people, and clean beds. A melancholy looking fortress, with four thousand inhabitants, in the midst of a plain, surrounded by marshes and stagnant ditches, whith render it very unhealthy. L 3 222 ROUTE XXXVI. — COLOGNE. Sect. IV. 2j Bergheim. Inn : Rotlie Ilaus, " a comfortable and reasonable inn, with an excellent table-d'hutc. The landlord speaks Englisli." — P. Tliere is a yew Road from Aix to Cologne, about 2 miles longer than the preceding, but more agreeable, be- cause it is not paved, but macadamised. The projected railroad will pass near it. Tlie stages are 2 Eschweiler. A little to the S. lie the coal mines of Stollberg. 2i Diiren. Inn: Post (Pfalzer Hof); a town of 8000 inhabitants on the Roer, with manufactures of cloth and paper. 2^ Kerpen, a new post-house. 2^ Cologne. On the outside of Cologne, the lialf-buried towers, a la Montalam- bert, which form part of the fortifica- tions, and are each capable of mount- ing 100 guns, are seen on the right and left. 3 Cologne (Germ. Kciln). Inns: Cour Imjierial (Kaiserlicher Hof), far the best, but situated in the middle of the town, and a long way from the Rhine ; — Grosser Rheinberg, con- veniently placed on the water's edge, and close to the steamers, but defi- cient in comfort and badly managed. — Mainzer Hof, near the diligence of&ce. — La Cour de Cologne and La Cour de Hollande, both near the Rhine, are good and moderate, but not stylish inns. — Rheinischer Hof (Hotel du Rhin), near the water, affords decent accommodation. — The Hotel de Bellevue in Doutz, on the opposite side of the Rhine, but close to the bridge of boats, is a new house, comfortably furnished, and well con- ducted. Cologne is a fortified town of 65,000 inhabitants, on the left bank of the Rhine, connected by a bridge of boats with the fortress and suburb of Deutz, which has 3700 inhabit- ants. It is the largest and wealthiest city on the Rhine, and has recently been made a free port, so that the na- vigation of the Rhine to its mouth being no longer impeded by the Dutch, this city is enabled to despatch vessels of its own to the German Ocean, or to foreign ports beyond. Cologne owes its existence to a camp pitched here, by the Romans, under Marcus Agrippa, which was afterwards enlarged and rendered permanent by the removal (under Tiberius) of a native tribe, called the Ubii, from the right bank of the Rhine, an event mentioned by Tacitus (Ann. I. 36.), and by their settlement on the left bank, at the spot now oc- cupied by Cologne. This first city was called Civitas Ubiorum. More than eighty years after, Agrippina, mother of Nero, and wife of Clau- dius, who was herself born here, sent hither a colony of Roman veterans, and gave to it her own name, calling it Colonia Agrippina. A part only of its ancient appellation is retained in the modern name of Cologne. " In the middle ages, from its wealth, power, and the considerable ecclesiastical foundations of its bishops, it was often called the Rome of the North." — Hope. In a large town like Cologne, where the objects of interest are spread over a wide space of ground, the following plan of the order in which the different objects may be seen in succession, without retracing one's steps, may be useful to the stranger either walking or riding : — Begin with the Cathedral ; close to it is the Museum j thence by the Jesuits' Church (a gorgeous combin- ation of Gothic and Italian architec- ture) to St. Ursula; (the architect may visit St. Cunibert's ;) from St. Ur- sula to St. Gercon, past the Roman Tower, to the Apostles' Chapel ; to St. Peter's ; St. Mary's in the Ca- pitol; the Gurzenich, and the Rath- hans, which completes the circuit. The object which first claims at- tention here is The Cathedral (Dom Kirche), which, though begun in 1 248, during the reign of the Elector and Bishop of Cologne, Conrad of Hochstedten, has remained up to the present time in a condition b Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVI. — cologne. 223 a fragment and a ruin. Had the original plan been completed, (views of the intended edifice are to be procured,) it would have been the St Peter's of Gothic architecture. Even in its present state, it is one of the finest Gothic monuments in Europe. It is to be regretted that the name of the architect who com- menced and planned it, is not with certainty ascertained ; as he deserved to be recorded, who coriceived so splendid a structure, Tlie two prin- cipal towers, according to the original designs, were to liave been raised to the height of 500 feet. That which is most finished at present is not above one-third of the height. On its top still remains the crane em- ployed by the masons to raise the stones for the building, and it has stood for centuries. It was once taken down, but a tremendous thun- derstorm, which occurred soon after, ■was attributed to its removal by the superstitious citizens, and it was there- fore instantly replaced, or a similar one set up in its place. It is well that it should remain, as it looks as though the present generation had not entirely abandoned the notion of re- suming and completing the structure. The King of Prussia, whose taste for the arts, and zeal for the preser- vation of ancient edifices, is equal to his liberality, has for many years past expended a considerable sum upon it ; this, however, has been employed not in advancing the edifice, but in repairing dilapidations, and preserv- ing what is built, from the ruin into ■which it threatened to fall owing to previous neglect. The restorations and repairs are conducted in a mas- terly and most workmanlike man- ner; the faulty stone of the Dra- chenfels has been replaced by another of a sounder texture; and the new sculpture and masonry are at least equal to those displayed in the ori- ginal edifice, while, as mechanical science has made vast strides since the building was founded, it is evident that money alone is wanting to complete it. It is well worth while to ascend the scaffold, both to view closely the details of the restorations, and to enjoy the view, " The Choir is the only part finished ; 180 feet high, and inter- nally, from its size, height, and dis- position of pillars, arches, chapels, and beautifully coloured windows, resembling a splendid vision. Ex- ternally, its double range of stupen- dous flying buttresses, and interven- ing piers, bristling with a forest of purfled pinnacles, strike the beholder with awe and astonishment. If com- pleted, this would have been at once the most regular and most stupendous Gothic monument existing." — Hope. The five painted windows in the nave were executed in 1508; the fourth on the left from the entrance is the most beautiful ; those in the choir are much older. The entire length of the body of the church is 400 feet, and its breadth 161. In a small chapel immediately be- hind the high altar is the celebrated Shrine of the Three Kings of Co- logne, or Magi who came from the East with presents for the infant Saviour. Their bones were obtained from Milan by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa, when he took that city by storm, and were presented by him to the then bishop of Cologne, who had accompanied him on his warlike ex- pedition. The case or coflSn in which they are deposited is of solid silver gilt, and curiously wrought, sur- rounded by small arcades, supported on inlaid pillars, and by figures of the Apostles and Prophets. The vast treasures which once decorated it, were sadly diminished at the time of the French revolution, when the shrine and its contents were transported for safety by the Chapter, to Arnsberg, in Westphalia. Many of the jewels were sold to maintain the persons who accompanied it, and have been re- placed by paste or glass imitations ; but the precious stones, the gems, L 4. 224 ROUTE XXXVI. — COLOGNE. Sect. IV cameos, and rich enamels which still remain, will give a fair notion of its riches and magnificei.ee in its original state, while those among them of Ba- bylonish origin, visible here as at Aix, atibrd wide scope for curious inquiry. The skulls of the three kings, in- scribed with their names — Caspar, Meldiior, and lialt/iazer — written in rubies, are exhibited to view through an opening in the shrine, crowned with diadems (a ghastly contrast), wliich were of gold, and studded with real jewels, but are now only silver gilt. Among the antiques still re- maining arc two, of Leda, and Cupid and Psyche, highly beautiful, but singularly inappropriate to their pre- sent position. On the front of the shrine are these two monkish lines : — Corpora sanctorum rccubant hie terna ma. goruni. Ex his sublatum niliil est, alibivc locatum. Those who show the tomb assert that its treasures are still worth six millions of francs = 2ilO,000/. ; this is an exaggeration, no doubt. This shrine is opened to the public gaze on Sundays and festivals ; but those who desire to sec it at other times, or to have a nearer and more minute view of it, must apply to the sacristan, and pay a'fee of two dollars, which admits a party. Under a slab in the pavement, be- tween the high altar and the shrine of the three kings, the heart of Mury oj Medicis is buried. There are several monuments of Archbishops of Co- logne in this church ; tlie most re- markable are those of Conrad of Hochstedten (its founder), of bronze, and those of the Counts of Schauen- burg. In the side chapel, on the right of the Magi, is a very ancient painting, in distemper, called, ;)o;- excellence, the Cathedral picture or Dombild, bear- ing the date 1410, supposed to be the work of one Master Stephen of Cologne. It represents the Patron Saints of the city of Cologne, viz. in the centre the Tliree Kings ; on the one side St. Ursula and the 11, 000 Virgins, on the other St. Geryon with the Theban Legion. It was seen by Albert Durer, w hen he visited this place, and he makes particidar mention of it in his Diary. It is a masterly produc- tion for so early a period. Of the artist very little is known, and fe\r other works of his are believed to exist. In the Limburg Chroniclehe is called William of Cologne. In the sacristi/ are deposited many relics of saints, including a bone of St. Matthew ; St. Engelbert's shrine of silver, ornamented with reliefs of good workmanship ; some church plate, and the like curiosities ; among them the sword of state, with a finely chased scabbard, borne by the Electors of Cologne at the coronation of the Emperor; and ten elaborate carvings in ivory. These are also shown for a fee. In the Church of St. Peter is the famous altar-j)iece of the Crucifixion of that Saint, with his head down- wards, by Rubens, who presented it to this church in which he was bap- tized. The picture usually exposed to view is a most wretched copy, painted at the time when the original, which is one of Rubens' finest works, was carried away to Paris; but for a fee of 15 S. gr., the sacristan will turn the picture round, and display the original, which is attached to the back of the copy. On Sundays and festivals, the original is turned out- wards. Sir Joshua Reynolds thus speaks of this picture. " It was painted a little time before Rubens' death. The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in the picture, which is finely coloured (broad light and shade), and well drawn ; l)Ut the figure bends too suddenly from the thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a bad taste of drawing ; as is likewise his arm, ^^hich has a short interrujjted outline. The action of the malefactors (execu- tioners) has not that energy which he usually gave to his figures. Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his own approbation of this picture. Rhenish Prussia. nouTE XXXVI. — cologne. 225 which he says vas the best he ever painted ; lie likewise exi)resses his con- tent and liajjpiness in the subject, as being picturesque : this is likewise ; natural to such a mind as that of ; liuhens, who was perhaps too much I looking about him for the picturesque, or something vmcommoii. A man with his head downwards is certainly a more extraordinary object than in its natural place. INIany p;irts of this jiicture are so feebly draw n, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that Rubens died before he had completed it, and tliat it was finished by some of his scholars." " This picture is of great fame. — I suppose from the letter of Rubens, where he says it was or would be his best work. We went from Dussel- dorp to Cologne on purpose to see it ; but it by no means recompensed us for our journey." The brazen font in which Rubens was baptised still exists in this church. The Church (if St. Ursula, and of the 11,000 Virgins, will be considered generally too singular a sight to be passed over without a visit. The church, situated just within the town walls, is not remarkable in its archi- tecture, but it is filled with l)ones, re- ported to be those of St. Ursula's companions. That saintly lady, (ac- cording to the legend, a Rritislj prin- cess,) having set sail with her virgin train from IBritain to Armorica, was carried by tempests up the Rhine (!) to Cologne, where the whole party were slaughtered by the barbarian Huns, because they refused to break their vows of chastity. Beneath, above, around, these hideous relics meet the eye : they are liuilt into the walls, buried under the pave- ment, and displayed in gaunt array in glass cases about the choir. The Saint herself reposes in a coffin he- hind the altar, while the skulls of a select few of her associates are de- posited in the Golden Chamber, en- cased in silver, along with a number of other relics, such as one of the stone vessels which held the water that was turned into wine, at the mar- riage feast in Cana, a link of St. Peter's chain which fell oft' when the angel summoned him from prison &c. A bad picture in the church represents the landing of this female army of Saints at Cologne. Some, who have been staggered by the vast extent of her maiden train, have sup- posed that the legend arose from a mistake of the writer who first tran- scribed it, in confounding the name of one of her attendants, Undeci- milla, with the number undecini niiilia (11,000). Santa Maria i?i Capitolio, so called because it occupies the very site of the Capitol of the Roman city, is one of the oldest churches in Cologne, and stands on a height surmounted by a flight of steps :it dates from about the year 1000. An older church was founded on the spot, in 700, by Plec- trudis, the wife of Pepin, whose tomb and effigy, both works of a very early period, are let into the wall, outside of the choir. A picture attributed to Albert Durer is shown here. The walls of the crypt are covered with curious ancient paintings. An erroneous statement is per- petuated in some of the guide books, that JMaria de' Medicis ended her days in the convent attached to the church, and was buried in it. She died in the house. No. 10, Sternen Gasse, and her remains, except the heart, were carried to France. Ruuens was born in the same house, 1577. The traveller who takes any in- terest in the study of Gothic archi- tecture* will feel much gratification in having his attention drawn to the numerous specimens of early Gothic (called in England Saxon or Nor- man), which are to be found in Co- logne. That style of architecture * Mr. Wliewall's work "On the Gothic Architecture of Germany " is highly valu- able, and is the best possible guide for in- quirers upon the spot L 5 226 ROUTE XXXVI. COLOGNE. Sect. IV. seems to have been transferred at once from the north of Italy to the banks of the Rhine ; many of the buildings here display it in its utmost purity, and equal, if they do not surpass, in elegance of proportion and decora- tions, those of England and Nor- mandy ; such are — The Apostles' church in the square called the Neu- markt, built about the year 1200. Its exterior is in the highest degree ele- gant ; its numerous towers and semi- circular projections group admirably, from whatever point it is seen ; — altogether it may be deemed a perfect specimen of the Romanesque style. Mr. Hope says it reminded him of some of the oldest Greek churches in Asia Minor, now converted into mosques ; and on beholding the east end, he almost thought himself at Constantinople. St. Gereon's Kirche, another os- suary, as it is lined with the bones of the Theban Legion of Martyrs, slain, according to the legend, during the persecution by Diocletian, is one of the finest as well as the most an- cient churches in Cologne ; the cir- cular portion, or rather the decagon, ■was not finished till 1227, but the crypt between it and the towers, and the walls of the choir above it, date from the x. century. The churches of St. Pantaleon, of St. Martin, and •S**. Cunibert, though they may be past over by the ordinary traveller, will highly interest tlie antiquary and stu- dent of Gothic architecture. St. Cunibert, finished 1248 (the year the Dom was begun), has an elegant por- tal, thrown down a few years ago by the fall of the tower. Tne tower is not destined to rise again. St. Pantaleon is, perhaps, the old- est Christian structure in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Roman bridge, and Castle of Deutz. It is now used as a protestant place of worship, and its tower supports a telegraph. The tomb of Duns Scotus is in the Chapel of the Minorites. It is tra- ditionally related that he was buried prematurely ; and having awakened from his trance, burst out of his cof- fin, but failing in forcing his way out of the vault, was found, wlien it was opened some time afterwards, lying on the steps near the entry ; the fingers of one hand were entirely gone, having been gnawed off, it is sup- posed, in the agonies of hunger. Albertus Magnus or De Groot, the alchemist and magician, was buried in the Church of the Dominicans,vflnch is now removed, and an artillery bar- rack built in its place. The Museum contains a large collec- tion of pictures, principally of the old German school, many of which have only their antiquity to recommend them. Among the more remarkable paintings may be mentioned the Last Judgment, by Master Stcphan, of Co- logne, (the angels are painted of the brightest ultra-marine by this master and others of the same school.) The Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel, and a Descent from the Cross, by Israel oi Mcchlen (1488). Also a Virgin and Child, and several others, by Master William, of Cologne. These pictures deserve some atten- tion, however, as the monuments of a school of art, whose very existence was, in a manner, unknown till the conuneiicenient of the present cen- tury. We are now aware that in the xiv.,xv., and xvi. centuries, simul- taneously with the revival of painting in Italy, tliere sprung up a race of artists on the banks of the Rhine, and ill the Xetherlands, who, without borrowing from the Italians, without any assistance froin ancient works of art, but by the study of nature alone, succeeded in raising the art of paint- ing from the degradation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence : and maintained that peculiar style which they had formed for themselves, and which is seen in the greatest perfection in the Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE XXXVI. COLOGNE. 227 works of Van Eyck, Hemling, and Schoreel. It was not till a later pe- riod that the painters of the school of the Netherlands began to imitate the works of the Italians. In order to appreciate thoroughly the works of the early German painters, it is necessary to see the Boisseree Collection, now in the Munich Gallery, which was itself formed at Cologne. Among the pictures by modern artists, in the museum, particular attention may be invited to the Cap- tive Jews at Babylon, by a young artist named Bendemann, " no less remarkable for the simple beauty of the composition, than for the depth and earnestness of feeling it ex- presses." In the lower story are many Ro- man antiquities, some of which are cu- rious as having been found in or near Cologne ; besides these are several busts and statues, and one specimen of sculpture, distinguished as a work of Grecian art, of great beauty and ▼aiue — it is the Head of Medusa. It is larger, and is said to be even finer, than the famous Medusa Ron- danini. It formed part of the col- lection of Professor Wallraff, who bequeathed it, with the larger portion of the pictures now in this museum, to his native city. Those who take interest in the arts will find, on inquiry, many jrrivate collections of pictures here ; they are, however, for the most part, limited to works of the old German masters. The Rathtiaus (town-haJlj is a curious old building ; it was erected at different periods ; the Gothic tower containing the Archives, in 1414 — the portal or double arcade, in the Italian style, in 1571. The Hanse Saal, in which the Council of magistrates was held, is a splendid and interesting apartment. In another ancient edifice, the KaiiJIiaus, or Giirzenich, finished in 1474, several Diets of the Empire were held. It has a remarkably fine Gothic fireplace. The Casino is a handsome new building, near the theatre, provided with ball and reading rooms, where newspapers are taken in. The Regierungs Gebaude is also a handsome edifice. £au de Cologne, so renowned all over the world, is an article of con- siderable commerce for the city. There are 24 manufacturers, and se- veral who bear the same name, but the original Jean 3Iarie Farina, the right- ful heir of the inventor, the best fabri- cator of Eau de Cologne, is to be found at No. SS.Jiilichs Platz. N. B. — A duty of \s. a bottle is charged in England. The value of this manufacture cannot fail to be ap- preciated on the spot. One of the peculiarities of Cologne, its filthiness, will not long escape the attention, or the nose, of the stran- ger ; it occasioned the following • verses of Coleridge : I I Ye nymphs, who reign o'er sewers and I sinks. The river Rhine, it is well known, I Dolh wash your city of Cologne : — ! But tell me, nymphs, what power divine Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine ? Cologne abounds in historical as- sociations. The Romans have left traces of their possession of this city of the Ubii, not only in various frag- ments of edifices still remaining — as in the very perfect Roinctn Toiv'r, originally part of the outer defences, though now far within the city, and in the numerous altars, inscriptions, coins, &c. which come to light almost wherever the ground is turned up ; but even in the features and com- plexions of its inhabitants, who are said to betray their hereditary blood, and to differ considerably from their German neighbours. The inhabitants were so proud of their Roman origin, that, up to the time of the French revolution, the higher citizens styled themselves patricians — the two bur- gomasters wore the consular toga, and were attended by lictors — while the town banners bore the pompous in- scription S. P. Q. C. Agrippina, mother of Nero, was born here in tlie camp of her fa- L 6 228 ROUTE XXXVI. COLOGNE. Sect. IV. thcr Germanicus ; Trajan here re- ceived tlie summons to assume the Imperial purple ; Vitellius and Sjl- vainis were proclaimed Emperors of Rome on the spot, and the latter was murdered in the Capitol. At a later period, 508, Clovis was declared king of the Franks, at Cologne. During the middle ages, Cologne was the most floiuisliing city of Northern Europe, one of the chief emporiums of the Hanseatic League, concentrating all the trade of the East, and maintaining a direct and constant communication with Italy. From this connection, not only the productions, but also the arts, of the East, were at once transferred to the then remote West of Europe. Tlie architecture of many of the oldest churches is identical with that of Italy, and there is some similarity between the paintings of the early Italian and Rhenish schools ; it is even probable that the southern school of art was indebted to the ar- tists of the North for some portion of its excellence. Anotiier relic of tlie ancient alliance with Italy is the Curnivnl, which is celebrated here, and nowhere else in the North of Europe, in the same manner, and al- most with as much spirit and pomp of masquerading, &c., as in Rome or Venice. The King of Prussia tolerates the procession of masks, even in the streets here, and in one or two other towns of his Rhenish provinces. Another amusement com- mon in Italy, but found nowhere in Germany but at Cologne, is the Piip- jjet Tliealrc {Vup[ien Theater), where droll farces are performed by dolls ; and the dialogue, spoken in the patois of the country, and full of satirical local allusions, is carried on by per- sons concealed. In 1259, Cologne obtained the sta- ple right by which all vessels were compelled to unload here, and ship their cargoes in Cologne bottoms. After its period of prosperity and splendour, during which the city could send forth 30,000 fighting men, came the season of decay. Commerce took a new route across the continent of Europe, and Cologne fell under the listless and iinimproving domi- nation of the priesthood. The uncon- trolled sway of bigoted ecclesiastical rulers, on three occasions, marred its prosperity, and finally completed its downfal;the first injurious act of in- tolerance, was the persecution and ex- pulsion of the Jews, 1 425 ; the second, the banishment of the weavers ; and the third, the expatriation of the Pro- testants, IGIS. The injury done to the city by these arbitrary acts is best proved by the desolate condition to which they reduced it, contrasted with the increasing prosperity of Aix-la- Chapelle, Verviers, Elberfeld, Dus- seldorf, Miihllieim, Solingen, and other cities in which the exiles, vic- tims of these persecutions, who were almost invariably the most industri- ous and useful citizens, settled them- selves. During this period the number of churches and convents multiplied cnormouslj'. Cologne is said to have had as many steeples as there were days in the year ; 2500 of its inha- bitants were ecclesiastics ; and, as a natural consequence, more than twice that number were beggars, who sub- sisted principally on the monks. The French revolution nowhere created a greater change than here ; the rich foundations were all plundered, the convents secularized, the churches stripped, and converted into ware- houses and stables. It is said that there are still 35 churches here, besides a vast number applied to the profane purposes to which the French first turned them. The transport of corn and Rhenish wine down the Rhine, and into the neighbouring countries of Holland, Belgium, and Westphalia, employs a great many vessels and persons. There are considerable sugar re- fineries here. Of late years, trade appears to have revived considerably, and under Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII the Rhine. (C.) 229 the improvements consequent upon increasing prosperity, and the wise regulations of tlie Prussian govern- ment, the town is beginning to lose some portion of the dirty and gloomy appearance, for which it is so noto- rious. Many of the streets have been widened and paved — new houses built, and old ones repaired ; still a large portion of the space enclosed within tlie walls is occupied by fields, gar- dens, and dirty lanes, ibrmerly at- tached to various conventual houses, which have disappeared. Though once, no doubt, well cultivated and productive, they lie half waste at pre- sent, and give a gloomy aspect to the place. Siiould the new rail-road from Antwerp to Cologne, which is already commenced, and that from Amster- dam to Cologne, which is contem- plated, ever be completed, we shall probably see Cologne again raising her head high among the chief cities of Europe ; and this huge carcase of ruined buildings and vacant enclo- sures, revived by increasing wealth, will swell out into its former propor- tions, and flourish both in population and industry. Without the walls, at regular dis- tances, are seven half-buried towers, a la Montalembert, which forin part of the defences of the place. (rt.) Deutx, (Hotel Bellcvue,) on the right bank, of the Rhine, con- nected by the bridge of boots, nearly 1-100 feet long, with Cologne, and recently strongly fortified as a tete du pont, is a favourite place of resort iii summer evenings. It has many inns and guinguettes, which aflbrd the amusements of music, dancing, and beer-drinking to the citizens. A large barrack has been constructed here within a few years, with magazines of artillery. Deutz is said to owe its rise to a castle built here by Constan- tine the Great. From the extremity of the bridge, thcjinest viciv of Cologne and its ranges of buildings, extending for three miles along the opposite bank, is obtained. An exceedingly interesting excur- sion may be made from Cologne to the hitherto little known or visited Abbey of AUenberg, about 12 miles distant, a short way oft' the road to Schvvelmand Minden. (Route LX V.) Steamers start twice every day, up the Rhine to Coblenz, a voyage of ten hours, and daily down the Rhine to Dusseldorf and Nymegen, a voyage of IJ hours (Route XXXIV.), and thence to Rotterdam in eight hours. (Route XII.) Z>///V,e„crt'(schnellposts) (§ 46), go, morning and evening, to honn and Coblenz, (Route XXXVII. ), and to Aix-la-Chapelle (Route XXXVI.), daily to Berlin by Elberfeld, ( Route EX IV.) daily to Dusseldorf, (Route XXXIV.) Clevcs and Nymegen, (Route XXXV.) once a week to Treves. ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. (C.) FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ. rt. denotes the right, 1. the left bank of the Rhine, according as they would lie on the right, or left of a person looking down the stream. The Rhine. On the banks of the majestic Rliine, There Harold gazes on a work divine, A blending of all beauties : streams and dells. Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, moun- tain, vine, And chiefiess, castles breathing stern fare- wells From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, All tenantless, save to the crannying wind. Or holding dark communion with the cloud. There was a day when they were young and proud. Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; But they who fought arc in a bloody shroud, And those which waved are sliredless dust ere now. And the bleak battlements shall t>ear nr future blow. 230 ROUTE XXXVII. — THE RHINE. (C.) Sect. IV. Beneath these battlements, within those walls, Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state £acn robber chief upheld his armed halls. Doing his evil will, nor less elate Than mightier heroes of a longer date. Wliat want these outlaws conquerors should have ? But History's purchased page to call them great ? A wider space, and ornamented grave? Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. In their baronial feuds and single fields. What deeds of prowess unrecorded dicd[! And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields. With emblems well devised by amorous pride. Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on Keen contest and destruction near allied. And many a tower for some fair mischief won. Saw the discolour'd Rhine, beneath its ruin run. But Thou, exulting and abounding river ! Making thy waves a blessing as they flow Through banks w^hose beauty would en- dure for ever. Could man hut leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth paved like Heaven ; and to seem such to me. Even now what wants thy stream? — that it should Lethe be. A thousand battles have assail'd thy banks' But these and half their fame have pass'd away, And Slaughter heap'd on high his welter- ing ranks ; Their very graves are gone, and what are they ? Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yes- terday. And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream Glass'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; But o'er the blacken'd memory's blight- ing dream Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. Adieu to thee, fair Rhine! How long de- lighted The stranger fain would linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely Contemplation thus mig^t stray ; And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms, it were here. Where Nature,nor too sombre, nor too gay, Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere. Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu ! There can be no farewell to scene like thine : The mind is colour'd by thy every hue; And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine! 'T is with the thankful glance of parting praise ; More mighty spots may rise — more glar. ing shine. But none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft, — the glories of old days. The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen. The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom. The forest's growth, and Gothic walls be- tween. The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been In mockery of man's art ; and these withal A race of faces happy as the scene. Whose fertile bounties here extend to all. Still springing o'er thy banks, though Em- pires near them fall. ByRox. To the above accurate description of the poet is added another in prose, from the pen of a German, because it serves to illustrate the feelings of pride and almost veneration with which the Rhine is regarded in Ger- many ; it is indeed looked upon as the national river. " There are rivers, whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost every thing that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming, in the same degree as the Rhine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age witli moment- ous events in the history of the neigh- bouring nations. A river which pre- sents so many historical recollections of Roman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose by its side ; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages ; whose banks present every variety of wild Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII. — the rhine. (C.) 231 and picturesque rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vineyards, sometimes gently sloping, sometimes perched among lofty crags, where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of nature ; whose banks are orna- mented with populous cities, flourish- ing towns and villages, castles and ruins, with which a thousand legends are connected ; with beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary mineral springs ; a river whose waters offer choice fish, as its banks offer the choicest wines ; which, in its course of nine hundred miles, affords six hundred and thirty miles of uninter- rupted navigation, from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores ; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and works of strength, which furnish protection to Germany, are also famous as the seats of Ronrian colo- nies, and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of mankind ; — such a river it is not surprising that the Germans regard with a kind of re- verence, and frequently call in poetry Father, or ATw^- lihine." — Dr.Lieber. Raktsokthe Rhike. — Every tra- veller on the Rhine should have his attention called to the vast floats of timber which he will constantly meet with on tliat river. They are the produce of the forests which cover the remote hills and mountains tra- versed by the Rhine and its tributa- ries, — the Neckar, the Murg, the Main, the Moscl, &c., &c. They are first hurled down, in single logs, from the almost inaccessible heights ■where they have grown, and have been felled, and are committed to some rushing mountain rivulet, when- ever its waters, swelled by rain or melting snow, suffice to float them. If the tree escape unshattered from the rocks, against which it is dashed by the stream, it is caught, bound together with other logs, and again set afloat, till it is conveyed by the tributary rivulet into the recipient river, and reaches other stations on its banks, where it is again enlarged, and entrusted to the care of boatmen to navigate. It may thus bear the same motto as the snow-ball, vires acquirit eundo, until, on reaching the lower part of the Rhine, it is care- fully built into one prodigious fabric, which is then navigated to Dortrecht, and sold. These constructions have the appearance of a floating village, composed of 8 or 10 little wooden huts, on a large platform of oak and deal timber. The rowers and work- men sometimes amount to 400 or 500, superintended by pilots, and a pro- prietor, whose habitation is superior in sire and elegance to the rest. The captain places himself upon a raised platform or stage, from which he can survey the float from end to end, and direct, by words and signs, its move- ments. It is steered and impelled by a quadruple row of rowers, fore and aft, under whose sturdy strokes the vast fabric bends and twists like a snake, especially when passing near dangerous eddies, and narrow straits, such as are met with in the Rhine under the Lurley Berg, and the Bin- ger Loch. " The raft is composed of several layers of trees, placed one on the other, and tied together ; a large raft draws not less than 6 or 7 feet of water. Several smaller ones are attached to it, by way of protec- tion, besides a string of boats, loaded with anchors and cables, and used for the purpose of sounding the river, and going on shore. The domestic economy of an East-Indiaman, or an English man-of-war, is hardly more complete. The boatmen are often accompanied by their wives and fami- lies ; poultry, pigs, and other animals are to be found on board — and se- veral butchers arc attached to the suite. A well-supplied boiler is at work night and day in the kitchen ; the dinner hour is announced by a basket stuck on a pole, at which sig- 252 ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. ( C.) SeCt. IV. nal the pilot gives the word of com- mand, and the workmen run from all quarters to receive their messes. The consumption of provision in the voy- age to Holland is almost incredible ; sometimes amounting to 20,000 or 30,000 lbs. of bread ; 10,000 or 12,000 lbs. of fresh, besides a quan- tity of salted, meat ; and butter, ve- getables, &c. in proportion. The expenses are so great, that a large capital is necessary to undertake a raft. Their navigation is a matter of considerable skill, owing to the abrupt windings, the rocks, and shal- lows of the river ; and some years ago the secret was thought to be mo- nopolized by a boatman of Riidesheim and his sons." The above information is princi- pally derived from Schreiber, and needs some modification on account of the change of system adopted at present. The rafts are no longer of so vast a size as formerly ; instead of 900 feet in length, they are now com- monly not more than 400, they never exceed 250 in breadth, and are sub- jected to be measured at Caub, to as- certain that they do not exceed this width ; otherwise they would not be able to pass through the narrow chan- nel between the rocks at Oberwesel. They do not draw more than two or three feet of water. These smaller rafts which still often require 400 men to navigate thein, are both more easily managed, and can also set out from a higher point up the river than the larger tioats. Tiie writer has been informed that even these reduced rafts greatly exceed in size those which are brought down the St. Lawrence and other great American rivers. A single lloat is commonly the property of a great number of shareholders, who form a sort of joint-stock company. The timber is sold at the end of tiie voy- age, and sometimes produces from 300,000 to 400,000 florins. It is curious to find that the boatmen who navigate the Rhine still call the left bank of the river Frankreich (France), and designate the right Ilcssenland,— though these names no longer apply to the present possessors of either bank. Steam-boats. — Between Cologne, Coblenz, and ^layence, steamers ply regularly both up and down the Rhine twice a day, starting from Co- logne early in the morning, and again about noon, and reaching Coblenz in about 11 hours. From Coblenz to Cologne, with the stream, they take only half that time. Down to the year 1837, the Preus- sisch- Rheinish-Dampf - Schiff"- Fahrt Company enjoyed the monopoly of navigating the Rhine. The fares were by no means moderate ; audit is worthy of notice, that a party of four persons, travelling with a carriage, paid as much for a passage for them- selves and the carriage in the steam- l)oat, as they would for post-horses. An opposition was commenced by a new Company • in 1838 : its fares are much lower than those of the original Company; and as the new vessels pos- sess the additional recommendation of greater swiftness, and of being well fitted up, they have a claim on the pa- tronage of travellers. Some estimate may be formed of the gains of the old Company, from the fact that they con- veyed, in 1827, 18,000 passengers up and down between Cologne and May- ence; in 1836, 136,000; and in 1837, more than 150,000. Smaller steamers navigate the river above Mayence, and even ascend as far as Strasburg. Tliey return from Strasburg to Mayence 5 times a week, in one day, so that by means of this chain of vessels a traveller may reach Rotterdam in four days from Stras- burg, having enjoyed the comfort of sleeping in his bed each night. The descent from Strasburg to Rotterdam is made twice a week in t/iree days and one night. The steam-l)oats are divided into three • Dampf-SchifT-Fahrts Gesellschaft ) fur den Nieder und Mittcl Rhcin. Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII. — the Rhine. (C.) 233 cabins: — 1. The Pavilion. — 2. The chief cabin. — 3. The aTter-cabin, for servants and inferior persons. The pavilion differs from the Snd cabin only in being more expensive ; and unless a person wishes to be very ex- clusive, he has no occasion to take any other place than the second cabin. Fares. — Cologne to Coblenz — Old Company, 3 Th. 15 S. gr. ; New Com- pany, 2 Th. 25 S. gr. Cologne to JMayence — Old Company, 7 Th. ; New Company, 5 Th. 20 S. gr. Breakfast and dinner are provided on board, at prices fixed by a printed tarifl'hung up in the cabin. Dinner at the table-d'liote, including half a bottle of wine, costs 20 S. gros. , whili, if served apart in the pavilion, it is charged 1 dol. 15 S. gr. Tea or coflee, and bread and butter, costs 6 S. gr. The traveller who confines himself to the Rhine and the routes con- tiguous to and brandling off from it, will find that, with very few excep- tion':, he may make his way very well without knowing any other laiinuage than French, which is generally spoken in the inns, passport and coach offices, and public conveyances, from Co- logne to Mayence and Frankfort, and thence to Baden. T/ie money current upon the Rhine is, in Prussia, Dollars and Groschen, (§ 4^)); higher up, in Nassau, Frank- fort, and Baden, Florins and Kreut- zers. (Section VH.) Scenery of the Rhine, — It is about twenty miles above Cologne that the glories of the Rhino com- mence with the beautiful cluster of mountains, called the Sicbengi-birge ; and the banks of the river afford nearly u|) to Mayence a succession of scenes of equal beauty and variety. English travellers are often under the erroneous impression that they have seeit the Rhine in passing up and down in a steam-vessel, and they hurry onwards to something beyond the Rhine. It may be said of them in the words of a homely phrase, that they " go farther and fare worse." The views in many places looking dorvn upon the Rhine from its lofty banks, far surpass those from the river itself, and the small valleys, which pour in their tributary streams on the right hand and left, have beauties to unfold, of which the steam-driven tourist has no concep- tion ; — which are entirely lost to him. At the same time, to avoid disap- pointment at first, he should be told, that below Bonn or Godesberg he will find nothing to admire in the scenery of the river. In order tho- roughly to explore and appreciate the Rhine, it is necessary every now and then to make a halt, and the following places appear the most appropriate stations to remain at : — Bonn, or Godesberg ; — Coblenz; — St. Goar ; — Bin gen, or Budesheim.* The post-road along the left bank of the Rhine runs close to the river, nearly the whole way, so that the fol- lowing description is equally appli- cable to the route by land and by \\ater. From Cologne to Bonn the banks of the Rhine maintain nearly the same flat and uninteresting appear- * Post-road. — Cologne to Coblenz.— The distance b>i land from Cologne to Coblenz is 11^ Prussian miles = 54 Eng. miles. A Schnellpost goes every morning and evening, in 8^ hours. The Schnellposts along the borders of the Rhine arc among the best in Germany ; they are expeditious, and well managed. Pruss. miles Bonn - - 3J Remagcn Andernaeh - - H - - H Coblenz - H On leaving Cologne, the church of St. Severin, and a tower at the water-side, called Beyenthurm, are passed near the extremity of the town. 234- ROUTE XXXVII THE RHINE. (C.) BONN. Sect. IV. ance which characterised them in Holland. The high road is botli more elevated and more direct than the river, and is therefore preferable ; the distance being not more than thirteen miles, while by water it is twenty. It is not worth while to mention even the names of all the vil- lages which lie on the river's banks between these two places, as they are both unimportant and uninter- esting. On nearing Bonn, the pic- turesque outline of the Siebengebirge (seven mountains} on the right bank rivets the attention. (rt. ) The castle of Siegburg, rising conspicuously on an eminence above the Sieg, about three miles N. of the Rhine, is now a lunatic asylum. (rt.) INIouth of the river Sieg. The Sicambri (Sieg-ambri), an an- cient people, lived upon its banks. (rt.) At Schwartz- Rheindorf, oppo- site Bonn, about i a mile below the flying bridge, there is a curious ar- chitectural monument — a double church, or rather two churches built one above the other. It was erected by Arnold Von Wied, Archbishop of Cologne, in 1151, yet it is entirely in the Romanesque style, showing no traces of the pointed Gothic. The upper church has lately been restored, and rendered fit for divine worship. The bases and capitals of the nume- rous little pillars surrounding it, ex- hibit a prolific variety of ornament. It will interest none but architects and antiquaries. (1) BoNiV. Inns: Der Stern (the Star), a good inn and comfortable ; rooms carpeted, charges moderate ; — Trierischer Hof (Gourde Treves), also very good, opened in 1 83.5 ; — DerCiJlnische Hof( Gourde Cologne). The red wines called Walportzheimer and Ahrbleichart, produced in the neighbouring valley of the Ahr, are very good here ; so is the mineral water procured from Roisdorf, near Bonn, which is used as a substitute for the Seltzer water. Bonn, a town of 12,000 inhabit- ants, on the left bank of the Rhine, is chiefly remarkably for its Univer- sity, established by the King of Prussia, in 1818, which has already attained a high reputation on the Continent, owing to the improved discipline maintained among the students, and to the discernment exercised by the government in the appointment of professors. Among those who have already filled chairs here, the most distinguished are Niebuhr (now dead) and Schlegel. The number of students amounts to 800 or 900. The Electors of Cologne formerly resided here, having removed their court hither from Cologne in 1268 ; their Palace now serves to contain the Universiti/ ; it is of immense size, with a fagade nearly a quarter of a mile long, and includes the Lecture- rooms, Librari/ of about 100,000 vo- lumes, and the Academical Hall, re- cently decorated with frescos, painted under the direction of Cornelius, a living artist, by his pupils. The subjects are the four faculties. Phi- losophy, Jurisprudence, Medicine, in which Cuvier and Linna;us are con- spicuous, and Theology, where Lu- ther, Calvin, WicklitFe, St. Jerome and the Fathers, and Ignatius Loyola, and other divines, both Catholic and Protestant, are introduced. The artist who painted the Philosnphi/, seems to have shown undue favour to his own countrymen : thus, Homer appears sadly in the background in comparison wth Wieland and Herder; Gothe is made prominent, .at the expense of Shakspeare and Dante, who hold very subordinate situations, and are very indistinctly defined ; Virgil and Aristotle are sadly eclipsed by others of the moderns ; while Ba- con, Socrates, and Cicero, are in a great degree thrown into the shade. The same building contains tlie Miiserim of JUienish Antiquities, a very large and interesting assemblage of lo- cal remains discovered on the banks of the Rhine, and relics of Roman Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE XXX Vir. — BON>r. 235 settlements in this part of Germany. They are placed under the care of the veteran Professor Schlegel, to whom application must be made for a ticket of admission. It is much to be la- mented that the collection is, as yet, neither named nor catalogued. The following seem to be the most remark- able objects : — A Roman altar, dedi- cated to Victory, which formerly stood in the square, called Romer Platz, and is supposed by some to be the identical ^ra Ubiorum mentioned by Tacitus ( Annal. I. 39.). A bronze vase, bearing figures of Hercules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure style of art, found at Zul- pich. Numerous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass vessels, a winged head of Mercury, found at Hadernheim ; the gravestone of one M. Caelius, who fell in the great battle of Varus (bello Variano), against Arniinius (? if ge- nuine) ; — Jupiter's wig, and thunder- bolt of bronze, from the Hundsruck ; tiles stamped with the numbers of several Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in these parts; a Roman mill- stone of Mendig tufa, and an ancient German shield of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westphalia, besides 200 bronzes. An avenue of chestnuts, about half a mile long, forming an agreeable walk, conducts to the Chdteati of Poppelsdorf which has also been ap- propriated by the King to the use of the University, and contains the Museum of A^atural History. The collection of minerals and fossils is particularly extensive and good, and especially interesting, as illustrating the geology of the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits of the Siebenge- birge and Eifel ; arranged by Pro- fessor Goldfuss. Among the fossil remains may be seen a complete series from the brown coal formation of Friesdorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, from the most perfect state down to that of a tadpole, dis- covered in the shale called paper- coal, deserve notice. Attached to the chateau is the Botanic Garden — very spacious, very rich, very beau- tifully situated, and admirably kept under the superintendence of the celebrated Professors Nees Von Esen- beck and Trcviranus. D. T. The Cathedral, surmounted by five towers, is a stately building exter- nally, in the older or round arched Gothic style ; the interior is very plain. It was founded in 320, by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, and contains a bronze statue of her. The choir, with its two towers, the crypt, and the cloisters, date probably from 1151 ; the rest of the church is later, probably 1270. There is a very good club (§ 40) here, called Lese- and Erholungs- Ge- sellschnfl. Beethoven the composer was bom in the house No. 934, Rhein Strasse. A monument is about to be erected to his memory. The most notable events in the an- nals of Bonn, are its capture after a long siege, in 1584, by Archbishop Ernest of Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who had been deposed from the see, because he had become a Pro- testant ; and its surrender to the En- glish and Dutch army under Marl- borough, in 1703, after a siege, the operations of which were conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. In the course of it a great part of the town was burnt. At Bonn the beauties of the Rhine may be said to have already com- menced. There are several most agreeable excursions round about it, and the view of the Seven Mountains on the opposite side of the river is strikingly grand. They are seen to grand advantage from the rampart, or terrace, called AUezoll, overlooking the Rhine, and from the garden of the cafe, called Vinea Domini (the Lord's Vineyard). But these are surpassed by the view from the church on the summit of the Kreutsbcrg, one of the hills behind Poppelsdorf, 1^ mile from Bonn. The road leading up to it is 236 ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. (C.) Sect. IV. Studded at intervals with chapels or stations, such as usually line tlie ap- proaches to a place of pilgrimage. The cliurch was formerly atiaclied to a convent of Servites. It was built, 1627, on the site of a very ancient chapel ; and boasts of possessing, among its curiosities, the sacred stairs which led up to Pilate's Judgment Hall, still bearing stains of the blood which fell from the wounds caused on the Saviour's brow by the Crown of Thorns. This, at least, is the Ca- tholic tradition concerning them, even though the very same stairs are shown at Rome, under the name of Scala Santa; and no one is allowed to ascend them except on his knees. A trap- door in the pavement leads into the vaults under the church ; they are remarkable for having pre- served in an undecayed state, the bodies of the inonks buried in them. They lie in 25 open coffins, with cowl and cassock on ; the flesh in some is preserved, though shrivelled up to the consistence of a dried stockfish; they are, in fact, natural mummies. They have been interred here at va- rious times, from 1400 to 1713. The church is annually visited by nume- rous piigriiTis, chiefly the rude pea- sants of the Eifel. The other agreeable expeditions which may be made from Bonn are to : 1. Godesbcrg, on the road to Coblenz, and the Alum Works at Friesdorf; — 2. The Drachenfels, and Siebengebirge, with the ruins of Heis- tcrbach on the opposite side of the llhine, described further on ; — 3. The Lower Eifel (Route XL.); — 4. The valley of the Alir (Route XXXIX.) The two last highly in- teresting and seldom explored. ASCENT OF THE RHIKE COXTINLED. (1.) Soon after leaving Bonn* the road passes a Gothic cross called * Post-read. The road quits Bonn through an archway under the Electoral Palace. HochkreiUz, erected by an Archbishop of Cologne, 1.331. About one mile from this, to the right of the road, are the brown coal mines and alum works of Friesdorf. The stratum here worked is, in fact, a forest, buried in an early period of the world's ex- istence, and now converted into lig- nite, or brown coal. The trunks of trees are intermixed with clays and sands, and exhibit all the stages from fossil wood in which the vegetable fibre and texture are quite discernible, down to bituminous earthy coal fit for burning as fuel. Many fossil fishes and freshwater shells are found in these beds. Associated with the coal is a stratum furnishing the ingre- dients for extensive alum works. " The alum of commerce is a com- pound of sulphuric acid, potash, and aluminous earth, and all these sub- stances are obtained on the spot, from materials found in contact with the alum clay. The sulphuric acid is formed by the action of air and moisture upon iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previously gently roasted, and the pota'^h from the ashes of the brown coal used as fuel in evaporating and crystallizing the alum salt." — H. " Tlie same mine furnishes a fine potter's clay, which is used in making the conical moulds employed in re- fining beet-root sugar, which is exten- sively manufactured hereabouts." — P. At Piitzburg, near Friesdorf, gi- gantic trunks of trees, sometimes ten or twelve feet in diameter, occur embedded in the strata. The earthy brown coal worked here affords the valuable pigment known by the name of burnt umber, or Cologne earth. (1.) Al)out five miles from IJonn, but considerably farther inland, be- hind the village of Plittersdorf, is the village and ruined castle of GoDESBERG. Inns: Blinzler's Ho- tel ; — Hotel Bellevue, both very good. " The Bellevue is a very spa- cious hotel, having been built as a Kur Saal, by the last Elector of Co- logne, who projected establishing a Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII. — seven mountains. 237 watering-place at Godesberg, but was prevented by the French revolution. The prices at the Hotels are : — Dinner at table d'hote, 15 S. gr. — in private, 1 Thaler; — Table wine (Ober-Mosler), 15 S. gr. — Break- fast and tea, 10 S. gr. — Bed, 15 S. gr." — P. Donkeys in abundance ply for hire near the hotel, to convey per- sons up to the castle, or on any of the other excursions in the neighbour- hood. Godesberg, a village of 1000 inha- bitants, on the high road, is, on ac- count of its agreeable situation, one of the most charming places of sum- mer residence on the Rliine. Near it is a mineral spring, called Drailscher Brunnen. Shaded paths wind round the hill to the ancient castle on its top. It was built by the warlike arch- bishops of Cologne, 1212, on the site of a Roman fort, and served them long as a trusty strong hold, till the Bavarians took it and blew it up, 1583, because it held out for the Pro- testant Archbishop Gebhard Truch- sess. The tall cylindrical Donjon tower commands one of the most beautiful prospects on the Rhine. Godesberg is a little more than one mile distant from the Rhine. It is a convenient point for making excursions to — I. The Kreutzbcrg, if it has not already been visited from Bonn. — 2. The brown coal mines and alum works of Friesdorf, p. 236. — 3. The volcanic hill of Roderberg 4. The Seven 3Iountains. The nearest way to them is to cross the Rhine by the ferry-boat to Konigs-winter, at the foot of the Drachenfels, where the traveller will always find guides to conduct, and donkeys to carry him, if required, to the summit. This excur- sion may be lengthened profitably, by ascending the left bank of the Rhine as far as Rolandseck, p. 239, and, after exploring its ruined castle, crossing in a boat to Nonnenwertb, and then dropping down the river to Kijnigs-winter. This excursion will not take up more than a day, and is decidedly a very interesting one. 5. The short tour up the valley of the Ahr, p. 249, may be made from Go- desberg, as well as from Bonn. — 6. " A visit to the Abbey of Heisterbach may be combined with the tour of the Seven Mountains, but is better made separately — crossing the Rhine at Riingsdorf (1 mile from Godesberg), by the ferry ('rt. ), to Xeider-DoUen- dorf. The Abbey is distant between 2 and 3 miles from the Rhine. A carriige-road leads to it. The pedes- trian, after passing Ober-Dollendorf, will proceed by a wooded path into the Petersthal, a secluded valley at the base of the Petersberg, one of the Seven Mountains, in which the Abbey lies. A fragment of the choir alone remains to attest its ancient magnificence. The building was sold for the materials by the French in 1806, and the greater part has been pulled down and removed. It was built between 1210 and 1'233. The beautiful fragment which still exists is carefully preserved from further decay by the Count Von der Lippe, its present owner, and well deserves the stranger's attention. As no con- veyances are to be had at Dollendorf, those who cannot walk must take donkeys from Godesberg." — P. (rt.) The Seven Mountains, Sie- bengebirge. The group of hills so called, though in reality more than seven in number, forms a grand com- mencement to the beautiful scenery of the Rhine. They are the highest and wildest on its banks, entirely of volcanic origin, and consist of lava, trachyte, and basalt, ejected through the rocks, which form the basement of the surrounding country, by sub- terraneous eruptions which took place previous to t!ie existence of any hu- man record or tradition. The names and heights of the seven principal summits are as follows : — Stromberg, 1053 feet ; Niederstromberg, 1056 feet; Oelberg, 1473 feet (the highest) ; Wolkenberg, 1055 feet ; Drachenfels, 1056 feet J Lowenberg, 1414 feet 238 ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. (C.) Sect. IV. (commanding a view considered by some superior to that from the Drachenfels); and Ilemmerich. They are almost all crowned with the ruin of some ancient tower, chapel, or hermit's cell, which add much to their picturesque features. The trachyte rock of the Wol- kenberg is quarried to a considerable extent as building stone ; it abounds in the mineral called glassy felspar. The most interesting of the whole group, from its shape and position, but more than all from the verses of Byron, is the famed Drachenfels (Dragon Rock), whose precipices rise abruptly from the river side, crowned with a ruin. " The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine. And hills all rich with blossom'd trees. And fields which promise corn and wine. And scatter'd cities crowning these, Whose far white walls along them shine. Have strew'd a scene, which I should see With double joy wert thou with me. " And peasant girls, with deep blue eyes. And hands which offer early flowers, Walk smiling o'er this paradise ; Above, the frequent fendal towers Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, And many a rock which steeply lowers. And noble arch in proud decay, Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers ; But one thing want these banks of Khine, — Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine! " The river nobly foams and flows. The charm of this enchanted ground. And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varying round : The haughtiest breast its wish might bound Through life to dwell delighted here ; Nor could on earth a spot be found To nature and to me so dear. Could thy dear eyes in fnUowing mine Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine ! " BVRON. The summit of the Drachenfels commands a noble view. In ascend- ing it the traveller is shown tlie quarry from which the stones were taken to build the cathedral of Co- logne, called, in consequence, Dom- bruch, and the cave of the Dragon (from which tlie mountain was named), killed, as it is reported, by the horned Siegfried, a liero of the Niebelunglied. Near the top is a monument to the soldiers of the Prussian Landwehr, belonging to the town of Kijnigs-winter, who fell on the spot, during the passage of the Rhine in 1814; and a tolerable Inn, where parties may dine, and those who wish to enjoy the sunrise from the summit, find comfortable sleeping ac- commodation. The ruined fragment on the summit is of remote origin, and was once the seat of a noble race long since extinct, named after the mountain on which they dwelt. They were dependent upon the Arch- bishop of Cologne as feudal supe- rior, and seem to have chosen this situation for their castle from the facilities it afforded them for spying, at a distance, the merchant's laden boat, or labouring waggon, and for sallying down to pillage or exact tribute. The view hence extends down the river as far as Cologne, twenty miles off; upwards, the Rhine is shut in by rocks, which, however, are very grand, while Bonn and its Univer- sity, with old castles, villages, and farm-houses almost beyond number, fill up the foreground of tlie landscape. The ruins on several otlier summits of tile Seven Mountains are retnains of castles of the archbishops of Co- logne. In that which crowned the Lowenberg, tlie reformers Melanc- thon and Bucer passed some time with the Arciibishop Herman Von Wied, who afterwards adopted the reformed faith ; and his successor, the Protestant archbishop, Gebbard Truclisess, took refuge here, with his beautiful wife, Agnes von Mansfeldt, 1585. (I.) In the neighbourhood of Meh- lem is the liodcrberg, one of the most interesting extinct volcanoes on the Riiine. Its crater is circular, nearly a quarter of a mile in diameter, and 100 feet deep. It is now covered with fields of corn. The sides are Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII. — the Rhine. (C.) 239 composed in many places of tufa and scorias, exactly similar to that found on Vesuvius. This crater is con- nected with the ridge on which stand the ivy-mantled arch and turrets of (1.) the Castle of Rolandseck, This ruin receives its name from a tradition, that the famous nephew of Charle- magne chose this spot because it com- manded a view of the Convent of Nonnenwerth, within whose walls his betrothed bride was immured. He lived here a lonely hermit for many years, according to the story which has furnished the subject of one of Schiller's most beautiful ballads, " The Knight of Toggenburg." The scene, however, has been clianged by him from tlie Rhitie to Switzerland. It is somewhat unfavourable to the truth of this story, tliat the castle is called, in the oldest records where it is mentioned, Rulclieseck. It was originally a nest of robbers, whose depredations rendered them the terror of the vicinity. The Tower of Roland is recom- mended as an admirable point of view for surveying the Rhine. The bold and precipitous rock of Roland- seek, composed of prismatic basalt, v\'ith its scanty and mouldering ba- ronial fortiess, is a most striking ob- ject from the river, and taken together with the Drachenfels on the opposite bank, serves as a fit portal to the grand scenery which lies above it. It projects so far forward, that the high road has barely room to pass between its foot and the brink of the Rhine. There is an inn at the foot of the rock of Rolandseck. Exactly opposite, and in tlie middle of the stream, is the island of Non- nenwcrlh (Nuns' Island), so called from the large building upon it, embowered in trees, once a nun- nery, and tlie asylum of the bride of the unfortunate Roland, now a very good hotel. It is only with- in a few years that the nuns have departed from this establishment. The amiable intercession of Jose- phine with Napoleon, on their behalf, is said to have preserved to them the possession of their ancient retreat, at the time when the other religious es- tablishments on the Rhine were secu- larized by the French. The nun- nery has been converted into an inn, but still remains in the condition in which is was left by its former in- mates, the cells of the nuns forming the bed-rooms of the guests. Those who seek an agreeable retirement in the midst of the most beautiful scenery, under tlie shadow of the Drachenfels and Rolandseck, will find here good accommodation and reasonable charges, with gardens oc- cupying a large extent of the island ; and fish dinners of tench, carp, and eels, not a little renowned, together with the convenience of setting out either up or down the river by means of steamers every day in the week. (I.) Oberwinter, a village through which the road passes. The greater part of the road from Rolandseck to Remagen may be said to be literally quarried in the rock. It was begun by the Bavarians, con- tinued by the French, and completed by the Prussians. The Romans, however, have the credit of laying the foundations of this noble high- way, as was proved by remains turned up by the modern road-makers, such as coffins, coins, and a Roman milestone, the inscription of ^^hich proved, that under Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, a. d. 161 — 180, a road had been already formed here. ;| (1.) Opposite the village of Unkel is the Unkelstein, a hill composed of basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant's Causeway. They are found both in a horizontal and verti- cal position, and extend far into the bed of the Rhine, w here they formed an obstacle to the passage of timber rafts, until the rock was blown up by the French. As it is, the current of the Rhine rushes with tremendous foice and with loud roaring past the Unkelstein. The basalt affords the 240 ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. (C) SeCt. IV. best material for roads and pave- ments, on wliirli account it is ex- tensively quarried. (1.) Apollinarisberg, a wooded height, surmounted by a churcii and convent, conspicuous for its white walls. It is named after a Saint, whose head is preserved here as a relic. The lower part of tlie interest- ing Gothic churcli dates from 1121. At the foot of the hill lies (1.) 2| Remagen. Inn: Konig von Preussen. The Rigomagum of the Romans is a town of 1400 inhabit- ants ; it has nothing of interest to detain the traveller, except a curious carved gateway leading to the Pfar- hof, close to the church, executed, probably, at the cud of the xi. cen- tury, which may be seen while the horses are changing. During the construction of the high road, many Roman antiquities were dug up here. (rt. ) Opposite Remagcn rise the black basaltic precipices, 700 feet high, called Erpelcr Lei, Tlie ingenu- ity of man has converted these rocks, which would otherwise be barren, and are almost inaccessible from their steepness, into a productive vineyard. The vines are planted in baskets filled with mould, and in- serted in crevices of the basalt. By this means alone is it possible to retain about their roots the earth, whicli would be washed away by every shower, were this precaution not taken. (rt.) The blackened walls of the ruined castle of Ockenfels. Below it lies (rt.) JJnz ; an ancient fortified town, surrounded by walls of basalt, part of which are still standing ; it has 2200 inhabitants. An Arch- bishop of Cologne built the tower still standing near the Rhine gate, to enforce the payment of tolls on the river, and to defend the place irom the burghers of Andernach, who were engaged in almost perpetual feuds with him and the townspeople of I^inz, The church on the height behind commands a fine view ; it contains some curious monuments of the noble families of the neigh- bourhood, and one or two ancient pictures of the German school. (1.) The river Ahr issues into the Rhine opposite Linz. The very in- teresting excursion from Remagen, up the valley of the Ahr, is described in Route XXXIX. (1.) 1^ Sinzig. Inn : Die Krone. At the distance of about a mile from the Rhine, but traversed by the high road, was the Sentiacum of the Roitians. The parish church is an interesting Gothic building, in the style which marks the transition from the round to the pointed Gothic, dating probably from the begin- ning of the xiii. century. According to an obscure transition, it was near this spot, that the cross appeared in the sky to Constantine, on his march from Britain to Rome, and assured him of a victory, whose con- sequences were no less important than the establishment of Christianity and downfall of Paganism. There is a rude painting representing this event in the church ; and in an' ad- joining chapel, a natural mummy, called the Holy Voght, carried to Paris by the French. (rt.) The chateau of Argcnfels, the Stammhouse, or cradle of the family von der Ley, is seen in the distance behind the ancient village of Ilon- ningen. (I. ) The village of Niederbreisig — (1.) The castle of llheineck, consist- ingof a watch-tower and a castellated residence adjoining, has lately been rebuilt, at a lavisli expense, by Pro- fessor Bethman Hollweg of Bonn. The design of the original edifice has been Collowedas far as possible in the restoration by the eminent architect Von Lassaulx. (1.) lirohl, a small village, with an inn aflfbrding tolerable accommoda- tion, at the mouth of the stream and valley of Brohl. It possesses a paper- mill, and several others moved by the Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII.— the Rhine. (C.) 24'1 streams of the Biohl-bachfor grinding tuff-stone into <7-«M (Dutch teriass) ; and tlieie are very singular cave-like quarries of tuff-stone about a mile up the stream. From the resemblance of this rock to the tufa formed at the present day in the eruptions of Etna, Vesuvius, and other active volcanoes, geologists conjecture that the tufa of Brohl has been formed cither by a torrent of volcanic mud discharged from the lips of some crater into tlie valley, or by showers of pumice and ashes, thrown up by one of the vol- canoes of the Eifel, falling into a lake, mixing with the mud at the bottom of it, and now consolidated into a soft stone. This, when quarried and ground into powder, is called trass, and from the valuable property wliich it possesses of liardening under water is in great request as a cement. Large quantities are exported from this to distant countries, especially into Holland, where it is employed in the construction of the dykes. The ancients made use of this kind of fctone for coffins ; and from its pro- perty of absorbing the moisture of the dead body, gave thcin the name of sarcophagi, i. e. flesh-consumers. Vo- tive tablets, bearing lloman inscri])- tions, have actually been discovered in the quarries, proving at how early a period tliey were worked. Trunks of trees, reduced to the condition of charcoal, and even land-shells of va- rious species, are embedded in the substance of the rock. A mineral water, resembling the Seltzer, but even more highly efl'er- vescent, is obtained froiu a spring called Tonistein, a short way up the valley : it is very palatable wiien mixed witli llhenish wine and sugar. The pleasant excursion to the lake of Laach, described at length in p. 270, may be made from Brohl. The tra- velling carriage should be sent on to Andernach, and the journey up the valley should be made on foot, or mules, or in the light cars of the country. In returning, there is a direct road from Wassenach to An- dernach, and the whole excursion m.iy be made in one long day. About two miles up the glen is the interest- ing castle of Scliweppenburg ; higher up is the spring and convent of Tonistein ; and further on, at the foot of the hill, whose cup-shaped interior is filled with the lake of Laach, lies Wassenach. (rt. ) On the summit of al)old, black, precipitous rock stand the broken walls of Hammerstein castle. (1.) Namedy. 2j (1.) Andernach. Inns: Zur Lilie (The Lily), good; Kaiser von Russ- land, very good. This is one of the oldest cities on the Rhine, and has 3000 inhabitants. It was called by the Romans Anto- niacum, and originated in one of Drusus' camps pitched on the spot. Its massive lamparts, watch-towers, and vaulted portals, still give it an air of sombre antiquity. There are two articles of traffic peculiar to this spot : millstones ob- tained from very singular quarries near Nieder Mendig, and exported to England, Russia, the East and West Indies, and to other remote parts of the v orld. They were used by the Romans, and spoken of as Rlienish millstones by Latin authors. The stone is a species of basaltic lava. Another volcanic production is the trass, or cement, brought from the neighbouringquarries of Brohl, Kriift, and Bell. A species of pumice called Oven-stone, because, from its property of resisting heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also obtained from the same localities. The Parish cinirch or Dome has four towers ; those at the west end tall and much ornamented : it was built in the beginning of the Xllth century, in tlie round style. The interior is supported upon two tiers of arches of nearly equal height ; beneath the upper tier runs a spacious galle- ry, intended for the male part of the congregation, and called manns M 242 ROUTE XXXVII THE RHINE. ( C) Sect. IV. haus : the women sit below. It con- tains some curious carvings, and a Roman tomb, erroneously said to be of ^'alentinian II. Tlie picturesque Watch-tower, at the lower end of the town, by the water side ; round below, and eight- sided above, dates from 1520: tlie Crane, a little higher up, from 1554. Beneath tiie Rathaus is a Jew's batit, of considerable antiquity. The Jews were expelled from the town 1596, and have never since been allowed to settle here. The Gate leading out of the town to Coblenz is an elegant Gothic por- tal, not a Roman work, as is com- monly reported. Adjoining it, on the right of the road, are the exten- sive ruins of the castellated Palace of tlie Archbishops of Cologne, built about the end of the XVth century. The Palace of the Austrasian kings stood either on this spot or close to tlie river, near an old gateway, possi- bly of Roman origin. A short distance ofi', on the right of the road, are the ruins of the Abbey of St. Thomas, now turned into a very extensive tannery, and partly into an asylum for incurable lunatics. Tlie architecture of St. iMichael's cha- pel attached to it, is interesting : it was built in 1 129. The excursions to the lake and ab- bey of Laach may be made in a car- riage from hence, as a tolerable road leads directly tliitherand toWassenach. At Andcrnach, the mountains on both sides of the Rhine again ap- proach the water's edge, and form a majestic defile, somewhat like that between tlie Drachenfels and Roland- seek. (rt. ) At the water's edge stands the ruined castle of Fredericiisteiii, or the Devil's House, so called probably by the peasants or serfs, vvlio were compelled to build it by forced labour. Behind it the small river "Wied issues out into the Rhine. (rt. ) An avenue of poplars unites the village of Irrlich with the town of (rt. ) Xeuioied. Inns: Zum Anker; Zur Briider Gemeinde (The Society of the Moravian brothers). A town consisting of straight streets crossing each other at right angles. It contains 5200 inhabitants, and is the capital of the principality of Wied, now mediatized, and at- tached to the Prussian dominions. This neat and uniform town had no existence 100 years ago, having been founded in 1737 by a prince who in- vited colonists of all persuasions, from all parts, to come and settle, with the understanding and promise of perfect toleration. The wisdom of such libe- rality has been proved by the flourish- ing condition of the industious ma- nufacturing town which lias sprung up in consequence, and by the harmony in which Jews, Catholics, Protestants, and Hernnhuters, all live togellier. The traveller in search of amuse- ment must judge for himself whether the objects here enumerated possess sufficient interest to reward him for turning out of his way to visit Neu- wied. The Palace (Residenz Schloss) of the prince, overlooking the Khine, possesses a collection of Roman anti- (juities discovered in this neighbour- Iiood, and principally derived from the buried city of Victoria, near the village of Niederbiber, about two miles north of Neuwied. The destruction of this Roman settlement, which, from the antiqui- ties preserved in it, may be consider- ed as a sort of Nortliern Ilercula- neum, appears to have been occa- sioned by an attack of the barbarian Germans — the remains of burnt beams, and of shattered and levelled walls, attesting tlie fury of their ravages. The objects brought to light comprise works in bronze and iron, armour, helmets, weapons, a jiloughshare, locks and keys, tools of various trades, and a sacrificial knife, pottery in great abundance, tiles, hand-mills ; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, and a large quantity of oyster- shells, proving that the garrison of Rhenish Prussia. route XXXVII — the rhine. (C.) 243 a remote colony in the third century | sent all the way to the sea for the luxuries of the table. Many tiles have been found stamped -with the names and numbers of the legions ' quartered here. In a large collec- tion of coins discovered here, none I have come to light older than the I time of Valentinian the elder, who > died A. D. 375, a fact which serves to I fix the date of the destruction of Vic- i toria with an approach to precision, i It is much to be regretted that the i remains of the city from which all these curiosities were derived, should not have been permanently exposed ; | but owing to the value of the land ! for agricultural purposes, the excava- j tioiis have been long since filled up, and few traces of Victoria are per- ceptible, since crops of com and grass again wave above its scanty ruins. In the building called the Phea- santry (Fasanerie Gebaude) is the Mitseum of Natural History, princi- pally remarkable for the collections made by Prince Maximilian of Neu- wied during his travels in Brazil and North America. The Colony of Moravian Brothers, established here, exceeds 400 indi- viduals : their establishment, church, school, and workshops are worth seeing. Their school for boys and girls, between 10 and 15 years old, under the direction of M. Mcrian, is attended by many English children, and is much to be recommended as affording sound religious instruction. The park and gardens of the chateau of Moutrepos, situated be- tween the Wied and the Rhine, six miles from Neuwied, form a pleasant excursion, and afford beautiful pros- pects. There is a flying bridge over the Rhine at Neuwied, and the steamers stop here to receive or let out passen- gers. From Andernach to Coblenz the scenery of the Rhine is uninteresting, and the banks flat. (1.) Weissenthurm (White Tower), a small village, through which the road passes, a little above Neuwied, on the opposite bank, is remarkable as the spot where the French crossed the Rhine in spite of the opposition of the Austrians, in 1797. On an eminence behind, to the right of the road, stands an obelisk, erected to the memory of the French general Hoche, who achieved this memor- able exploit by throwing a bridge across to the island in the middle of the river. The monument bears the simple inscription, " L'Arm^e de Sambre et Meuse a son General Hoche." Byron says of it, " This is all, and as it should be ; Hoche was esteemed among the first of France's earlier generals, until Napoleon mo- nopolised her triumphs. He was the destined commander of the in- vading army of Ireland." Cajsar, when leading his army against the Sicambri, seventeen centuries be- fore, crossed the Rhine at the same spot, and has described the very cu- rious bridge which he constructed for the passage. (1.) Beyond Weissenthurm the road quits the side of the Rhine, and continues out of sight of it till near to Coblenz. (rt.) Engers, a small village, with an old-fashioned chateau facing the river ; a short way above this, the remains of a Roman bridge, built B.C. 38, are discoverable in the bed of the river. (rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the mouth of the river Sayn. (rt.) A good macadamised road strikes up the valley of Sayn behind the village of Bendorf. A little way from the mouth, about eight miles from Coblenz, stands the village and modern chAteau of Sayn, belonging to Count Boos, overlooked by a pic- turesque old castle in ruins. Not far off" are the Royal Cannon Foundry and Iron trorks (Sayner Hiitte), equal in extent to some of the most consi- derable establishments of the same kind in England : very pretty cast- M 2 244 ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. (C.) Sect. IV. iron ornaments, similar to tlie black ware of Berlin, are made here. At the up])er extremity of the valley is the castle of the counts of Ysenburg, ivhence they used to sally forth and pliinderthemercliants upon the Rhine. Tiie whole valley is beautiful ; the stream of the Sayn flowing through it gives it verdure; its woody sides afibrd a cool shelter even in summer, and are intersected with walks, and provided with seats and summer- houses. In fact, it possesses all the requisites for a pleasant day's excur- sion, and is therefore chosen as the scene of many a pic-nic by the peo- ple of Coblenz. An excellent car- riage road has recently been made along it, which, when continued, is intended to open a short communi- nication between Berlin and the Rhine. (1.) Near Kesselheim are remains of the chateau of Schlinbor/i/iist, ori- ginally a palace of the Elector of Treves, and only remarkable because it was the residence of tlie emigrant Bourljon princes and their supporters who were exiled from France during the revolution. It became the head- quarters of the army of the refugees and their allies, and their plans of invading France were here concocted. The part of the building now stand- ing serves as an inn. (1.) Near the junction of the INIosel and Rhine, stands the " Monument of the young and lamented General I\Iaicean, killed at the battle of Altenkirchcn, in attempting to check the retreat of Jourdan, on the last day of the fourth year of the French republic." (Sept.' 21. 179G.) " By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle groiuul, Tlicre is a small and simple pyramid, Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hir (honour's broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, connected with Coblenz by a bridge of boats. In order to enter it, it is necessary to have permission from the military Commandant re- siding in Coblenz, which a valet- de-place will easily procure, on merely presenting the passport, or a card with the name of the applicant upon it. This fortress, originally a Roman Castrum, was, during the middle ages, the refuge and stronghold of the Electors of Treves, who, in later times, occupied the Palace (now a barrack) at the foot of the rock, before the erection of their more princely residence on the opposite side of the Rhine. It was in vain besieged by the French in the seven- teenth century, under Marshal Bouf- flers, notwithstanding tiie celebrated Vauban directed the works against it, and although Louis XI V^. repaired hither in person, in order to be the eye-witness of its surrender ; but it fell into their hands in 1799, after a siege in which the garrison were re- duced to such extremities from want of food, that a cat was sold for li florin, and horse-flesh rose to 30 kreutzers per lb. It was blown up by the French when they evacuated it after the peace of Luneville. " Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall Black with the miner's blast, upon her height Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light, A tower of victory ! from whence the flight Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain ; But Peace destroy'd what War could never blight. And laid those proud roofs bare to Sum- mer's rain — On which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain." BvaoN. It is now no longer a ruin. Since 1814, the Prussians have spared no M 4 24-8 ROUTE XXXVII. THE RHINE. (C.) COBLENZ. ScCt. IV. pains or cost in restoring it, and add- ing new M-orks, w)iich liave liccii only recently brought to a conclusion, and it is considered to be stronger than ever. Prussia devoted to the re-con- struction of this fortress her share of the contribution which France was compelled to pay the Allies after the war ; hut more than four times that sum lias probably been expended on it by the Prussian government. The entire cost of the works on both sides of the Rhine at Coblenz is estimated to have exceeded five millions of dol- lars. It is capable of holding a gar- rison of 14,000 men : in peace there are only 500. The magazines arc ]arge enough to contain provisions for 8000 men for ten years. The fortress is defended by about 400 pieces of cannon. The escarped rocks, or steep slopes, on three sides, would bid defiance to almost any assault : its weak point is on the W. Here, however, art has done its ut- most to repair a natural defect, and three lines of defences present them- selves one within another, which would require to be taken in suc- cession by the enemy before he could gain an entrance in this direction. The great platform on the top of the rock, serving as a parade, covers vast arched cisterns, capable of hold- ing a supply of water for 3 years, furnished by springs without the walls. There is, besides, a well, sunk 400 ft. deep, in the rock, com- municating with the Rhine : the Rhine water, however, is very un- wholesome, from tiie quantity of vegetable matter decomposed in it. (1.) Hill of the C/i(irl reuse — The view from Elircnbreitstein is, perhaps, even surpassed by that from the lieights of the Chartreuse, Karthaus- erberg, on the left bank of the Rhine, about half a mile above Cob- lenz. It receives its name from an old convent, now removed to make way for Forts Alexander and Constan- tine. It is nearly as high as Ehren- breitstein, and that stupendous rock and citadel form the grandest fea- ture of the view from this point ; while, by approaching the verge of the hill, the Rhine is seen on one side, with the fortified heiglits of Pfaffendorf beyond it, and on the other side the Mosel flows at the gazer's feet. There are many interesting spots near Coblenz, to which excursions of greater or less distance may be made. On this account it deserves to be chosen asa halting place for some days; indeed a week may bo agreeably sjient liere before all the rides and walks are exhausted. Sliort excur- sions of half a day are — to the castle of Stol~jijifcls, on the left bank of the Rhine, on the road to Mayence, p. 250 ; to the top of the Kuhkopf, the highest hill near Coblenz ; to Lahn- stein, on the right bank of the Rhine, p. 250 ; to Sa>/n, p. 243 ; and the Botanic Garden at Engers. Tours of a day may be made to the Lake of Lciacli ( Route XL.) ; to the Oistle of Eh f Route XLI.) ; to Xeuwied, be- yond Engers, p. 242 ; to the Castle of Marksburg, p. 250 ; to Ems and iS^as- sau (Route XCV.). A pleasant ex- cursion of t«o days may be made to the Baths of Bcrtrich, returning by the i\Iosel, and in this short space the traveller may enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery that river pre- sents. Sec Route XLII. The numerous forests around abound in game, roes, stags, wild boar, ajid even wolves : the preserves of the Duke of Nassau and Prince of Wied are richly stocked ; and they are known to he liberal in admitting foreigners to tlieir shooting parties, so that Coblenz is good sporting quarters in autumn. Hints for making the Tour of the Rhine, above Coblenx. — The direct road to the Brunncn of Nassau ( Route XCV. j strikes away from the Rhine at Col)lenz ; but as a great part of it is uninteresting, and as nearly all the finest scenery of the Rhine is concentrated above Coblenz, and be- Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVII. — the riiike. (D.) 249 tween that town and Bingcn, tliose who wish to explore its beauties will find it far preferable to adhere to the post road running along the left bank as far as Bingen, and there to turn od" to Schlangenbad, Schwal- bach, and Wiesbaden. In this case it is advisable to make an excursion from Col)leiiz to Ems, and the castle of Nassau, six miles beyond it. \ There is an agreeable road (not a post-road) along the right bank of tlie Rhine, between orchards and vine-gardens, from Ehrenbreitstein ' to Lahnstein, at the mouth of the ' Lahn. The carriage-road beyond i this is very bad, barely practicable for a light carriage ; but the pedes- i trian who follows the Lahn, as his i Wiesbaden, daily. Dr. Soest, and Dr. Baermann, who understand English. The usual doc- tor's fee for the tirst visit is two dollars, and one dollar afterwards. The i)har- mact/ of Mr. Mohr is excellent. Baedekar, a respectable bookseller in the Rhein Strasse, 45-J, leading from the bridge, keeps an assortment of guide-books, prints, maps, &c., and is the publisher of the best Travellers' ^faniial of Conversation, in German, French, and Dutch, which the writer of this is acquainted with. Steamers twice a day up to May- ence, and down to Cologne ; Schnell- posts (§ 46.) to Cologne twice a day ; to Mayence and Treves daily ; to Frankfort, by Ems, Schwalbach, and guide, may find many agreeable foot- paths and bye-ways at a little dis- tance from its banks, which « ill lead him among woods and fields through a picturesque solitude, in about three hours, to the baths of Ems. There is a direct foot-path over the tops of the hills, which would lead from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems in three quarters of an hour or an hour; but it is difficult to find without a guide. Those who have a week to spare may make from Coblenz the tour of the beautiful Mosel, following the high road to Treves (Route XLI. \ and returning by the river in the Cochcd'Eau (Route XLII.), or Eil- jacht, which ascends and descends the Mosel twice a week. They who cannot spare time to go all the way to Treves will find it worth their while to devote li or 2 days to an excur- sion to IMunster-Mayfeld, the castle of Elz, and the village of Treis, situated on the Moselle at a spot where its scenery is the most beauti- ful (Route XLII.) The young peasant girls in the country around Coblenz wear before marriage a very elegant cap richly embroidered, with a silver gilt arrow stuck through their hair. First-rate plii/sicia7is are Dr.Ulrich, Schreiber recommends pedestrians to take a bye-road leading from Coblentz to Boppart, througli woods and over heiglits, which conuuand the Rhine, This he describes as both shorter and more agreeable than the high road by the water-side. ROUTE XXXYIIL THE RHINE ( D. ) FROM COBLEXZ TO MAYENCE.* Tlie distance by the post road along the left bank of the Rhine, is 12 Pruss. miles = 56 English miles. Immediately above Coblenz the Rhine loses its cheerful and taine appearance — the mountains close in upou it, and on entering the con- tracted gorge, extending as far as Bingen, the mind is as it were trans- ported back to the gloomy days of the middle ages. The dark shadows of the mountains, the numerous feu- dal castles in ruins, frowning upon walled and turreted towns, arc the prominent features -of its unrivalled scenery, the effect of which is height- • Post -road. Boppart St. Goar Bacharach Bingen - Ingeliitim Mayence Pruss M 5 Miles. 3 1 250 ROUTE XXXVIII. — THE RHINE. (D.) Sect. IV encd by historical associations, and the ' charms of romance and chivalry. On quitting Coblenz, we pass (1.) Forts Alexander and Constantine ; (rt.) Fort Frederick William, crown- ing the heights of Pfaffendorf, above a village of tliat name. They have been fortified with as much care and expense as the citadel itself. (rt. ) Horcheim is the last Prussian village on the right bank of the river : it is opposite to the island Oberwerth, upon which stands the country-house of Count Pfafienho- fen, formerly a nunnery. (1.) Stolzenfels, a ruined castle, finely placed on a jutting rock over- looking the llhuie, and the little vil- lage of KapcUen : and nearly opposite the confluence of the Lahn. Its pic- turesque outline and commanding position seem to justify its name of the Proud Rock, and render it one of the most imposing feudal ruins on the Rhine. It is one of the numerous fortresses built by the Archbishop of Treves, and was a favourite residence of several of these princely prelates. It was destroyed by the French in 1 688, and had since been abandoned to decay, until it was presented to the Crown Prince of Prussia, by the town of Coblenz. An enthusiastic love for the fine arts, and admiration for the works of antiquity, have induced the Prussian heir-apparent to devote a certain annual sum to the repairs of this picturesque fortress ; he proposes in the end to restore it to its primitive condition, and he will probably occu- py it as a residence at times. lie has improved the approaches to the ruins, and planted them with trees. The castle is often resorted to by the Cob- lenzers on account of its fine view. Not long before it was given to the Prince, Stolzenfels was oflered for sale at seventy dollars (11/.) without find- ing a ])urchaser. Both banks of the Lahn, and the right bank of the Rhine, nearly all the way from hence to INIayence, belong to the territory of Nassau. (rt. ) At the angle between the Rhine and the Lalm, stands the very ancient church of St. John, ruined by the French ; beyond it the village of Nieder Lalmstein, on the right bank of the Lahn ; and above, on the top of a rock, are the ruins of the castle of Lahneck, on the left bank of the Lahn. Douquet's garden at Lahu- stein is a very beautiful spot. (rt. ) Oberlahnstein, a walled town. Just without its walls is a little chapel, memorable as the spot where the Electors met to pronounce the depo- sition of the weak and indolent Em- peror Wenceslaus, and to elect Rupert emperor in his stead. (I. ) Jiheiist, a small village, through which the road passes. A little be- low it stood, till within a few years, (when it was destroyed by the French), the Konigstuld (King's Seat), where the Electors used to meet to deliber- ate on aflfairs of the Empire. It was an octagon building, supported by pillars, and having seven stone seats. Here many treaties of peace have been concluded, emperors dethroned and elected, and here the Emperor ^Maximilian appeared in person to take the oaths. At present the spot is barely to be recognised. A heap of rubbish and a kw stones in a po- tato field, are all that remains. This situation was selected from its vicinity to the territories of each of the four Rhenish Electors. The town of Rhense belonged to the Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, Kapel- len and Stolzenfels to Treves, and Braubach to the Palatinate. Thus each could repair to the spot, or retire from it into his own dominions, in a few minutes' time. (rt. ) Braubach, a small town, with a chateau, at the water side (now turned into an inn, zur Phillips- burg), stands at the foot of a high and almost conical rock, surmounted by the imposing castle of Markshtirg, the only one on the Rhine which has been preserved uninjured and unal- tered, as a perfect specimen of a Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVIII — the khine. (D.) 251 stronghold of the middle ages. It is on this account highly deserving of a visit, and is readily shown to strangers. It is still used as a prison for politi- cal offenders, and is garrisoned by a corps of invalids. It is, indeed, the beau-ideal of an old castle, with mys- terious narrow passages, winding stairs, vaults hewn in the living rock, which served in former days as dun- geons, and above all a chamher of tor- ture, where the rack still exists, as well as the instruments with which offend- ers were executed by strangling. A secret passage is said to pass down through the rock to a tower on the borders of the river. The view from the top of the Donjon keep will please the lover of the picturesque. Braubach is about nine miles from Ems. A tolerable road connects the two places. (1. ) Three small villages close toge- ther, called Mittthpnij, Peterspay, and Oherspaij. The Rliinc here makes a very great bend, and does not reco- ver its former direction till Boppart is passed. (rt) Two miles above Braubach, nearly opposite the villages of Nieder, Mittel, and Oberspay, is a mineral spring of bitter water, possessing me- dicinal properties, called Dinkholder Brunnen. (rt. ) Above the little village of Os- terspay, rises the castle of Liebeneck. (1.)* Boppart. Inn: Die Post. A very ancient walled town, with .'3500 inhabitants, and dark narrow streets, no better than lanes. Like many other places upon the Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle built by Drusus, which formed tlie rudiments of the future town ; — some of its battle- ments stand upon Roman foundations. It was called by the Romans Baudo- briga. In the middle ages it was made an Imperial city, and many Diets of the Empire were held in it. There are two interesting Gothic churches here — the Hauptkirche and • 3. Boppart. Carmelitenkirche. The vast convent of Marienliurg, behind Boppart, is con- verted into an Institution for female education. " In no similar journey do you meet with such striking instances of the mutability and shifts of power as along the Rhine. You find the kingly city dwindled into the humble town or the dreary village ; exhibiting de- cay without its grandeur, change without the awe of its solitude. On the site on which Drusus raised his Roman power, and the kings of the Franks their palaces, trade now drib- bles in tobacco-pipes, and transforms into an excellent cotton manufactory the antique convent." — Bulwer. Between Bopjiart and Salzig (1. ), the mountains recede somewhat from the banks of the river, and give place to corn-fields and imeadows. (rt.) A little higher up than the village of Kamp, immediately above the ancient convent of Bornhofen, and opposite Salzig, rise the twin cas- tles of Sternberg and Liebenstcin. These mouldering towers, crowning the douljle summit of a lofty rock, covered with vines, nod at each other with a sort of rival dignity. Tliey go by the name of the Brothers, and are interesting from their picturesque- ness. After passing on either side several villages of slight importance, we come opposite to (rt. ) Welmich, a small vil- lage sheltering itself at the foot of a mountain, surmounted by the ruined castle of Thurmherg, called " tha Mouse," in contrast to " the Cat," another castle above St. Goarshausen. The blouse, however, was generally the strongest and most formidable of the two, so that the Cat trembled be- fore it. It is one of the most jierfect castles on the Rhine; the wood- work alone is wanting; the walls are entire. (1.) Close above the town of St, Goar rises the vast Fortress of Rhcin- feh, the most extensive ruin on the Rhine. The original castle was built bv a Count Diether, of Ellenbogen, u 6 252 ROUTE XXXVIII. — THE RHINE. (D.) — ST. GOAR. Sect. IV. as a stronghold where he could reside, and from M-hence he could levy tri- bute (or, as we should say at present, exact duties) upon all merchandise passing up or down the Rhine. An attempt, however, on his part to raise the amount of duties, roused the in- dignation of his neighbours, and his castle was besieged in vain for fifteen months by the burghers of the adja- cent towns. This unsuccessful at- tempt was productive of more impor- tant consequences : it was one of the circumstances which gave rise to the extensive confederacy of the German and Rhenish cities, to the number of sixty, whose more numer- ous and formidable armies reduced and dismantled not only the castle of Rheinfels, but most of the other strongholds, or, as the Germans call them, robber-nests, upon the Rhine. This event took place in the latter part of the thirteenth century. Tlie castle afterwards came into the pos- session of the Landgrave of Hesse, who at a very considerable expense converted it into a modern fortress, with bastions and casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by an army of 24,000 French, under :Marshal Tal- lard, who had promised the fortress as a new year's gift to his master, Louis XIV. ; but through the brave defence of the Hessian general Gortz, was compelled to break bis word and draw off his forces. It would have been well if this exam- ple had been followed in later times ; but though its works had been greatly strengthened, it was basely abandoned in 179'! by the garrison without firing a shot, on the first ajipearance of the revolutionary French army, by whom it was blown up, and rendered use- less. Below Rheinfels lies the post- town of * (1.) St. Goar. Inns: Zur Lilie (the Lily); the Postc. Both inns are very comfortable, and aftbrd good accommodation ; and as St. Goar lies • U St. Goar. in the very midst of the glories of the Rhine, in sight of some of its finest scenes, it is a very convenient spot to make a halt in for a day or two. The views in its vicinity are among the most picturesque in the whole course of the river, and the rocks which hein it in on both sides, are peculiarly wild and precipitous. Tlie castle of Rheinfels, magnificent in appearance, and interesting from its history, re- wards the trouble of the ascent by the enchanting view which it commands. Another pleasing view is to be ob- tained from the summit of the heights above St. Goar, which rise imme- diately in face of the Lurleiberg. The spot is approached by a foot-path, leading out of St. Goar by the side of the bed of a winter torrent ; but the way is difficult to find without the aid of a guide. The Protestant Church, near the centre of the town, is of pleasing ar- chitecture : it was built 1465. In the Catholic Church of St. Goar is the image of that holy hermit, who in early times took up his abode in this spot, while it was still a wilderness, to preach the religion of the Cross to its rude inhabitants, and afterwards gave his name to the town. His shrine is famed for working miracles, and his help is supposed to have rescued many a poor boatman who prayed to him, from the perils of the Gewirr (a whirlpool), and the enchantments of Undine, the Nymph of the Lurlei. (rt. ) The Nassau bank of the Rhine hereabouts, also aflibrds pleasant ex- cursions and points of view. Boats are always ready at St. Goar, to transport visitors across the river to (rt. ) Goarshausen, in order to explore the pretty Schweitzer Thai ( Swiss Valley) of the Froschbach, a limpid stream descending in numberless small cascades between precipitous walls of rock, and turning many water mills. At the entrance of this valley, above the walled village of St. Goars- hausen, rises the very picturesque Castle of the Cat, a contraction of Rhenish Prussia. route XXXVIII. — the rhixe. (D.) 253 Katzenellenlwgen (Cat's Elbow), the name of its ori{»inal possessors. The view from it is not inferior to that from the left bank. Those who feel an ardour to climb still higher may reacli the brow of the Lurlei, and gaze upon the Rhine from the brink of this lofky precipice. (rt. ) .\ short way above St. Goar, but on the ri;ilit bank, rises abrujitly from the water's edge, the bare, black, and perpendicular precipice, called tlie Lurleiberg. At the side of the high road, opposite this colossal cliff, is a Grotto occupied by a man whose employment it is to awaken, by pistol or bugle, for the gratification of tra- vellers, the remarkable echo of the Lurlei, which is said to repeat sounds fifteen times. The aspect of the Lurlei from this point is very grand. The German students amuse them- selves by asking the echo " Who is the Burgomaster of Oberwesel?" Answer — " Esel," (the German for Ass), a joke of which the burgomaster highly disapproves. There is an ex- tensive fishery of salmon in this part of the river. In front of the Lurleifelscn, is the whirlpool (Wirbel), called the Gcwirr, and above it a rapid, called the Bank, formed by the stream dashing over a number of sunken rocks, increased by the sudden bend which the river here makes. The passage of the large rafts which navigate the Rhine over this spot, is difficult and dangerous, and men have been washed overboard by the tumultuous waves dashing over the slippery plank. The perils of this spot, taken in connection with the mysterious echo, no doubt gave birth to the superstition that the Lurhi was haunted by a spirit, a beauteous but wicked water-n\-mph, wIjo distracted and beguiled the pass- ing boatman with her magical voice, only to overwhelm and drown him in the waves of the whirlpool. (1.) Oberwesel. Inns: Rhein- ischer Ilof; Trierischer Hof, (Vesa- lia of the Romans), a small town of 2300 inhabitants, highly picturesque from its lofty round tower at the water-side, its many-turreted walls, and Gothic buildings. Among the latter is the Church of Our Ladij (Liebfrauenkirche), or St. Lefrau, outside the town at its upper end, one of the most highly decorated as well as tasteful examples of Gothic architecture upon the Rhine. It was consecrated in 1331. Its porches are richly sculptured ; and the vaulting of the cloisters is singular. The choir is 80 feet high. The altar-piece of car\-ed wood, richly gilt, consist- ing of a series of niches, filled with figures of prophets, patriarchs, and saints, is of the same age as the church and is the perfection of elegance and delicacy. In a side chapel are many monuments of the Schomberg fa- mily, bearing rudely-carved effigies of knights in armour, ladies in stomach- ers and ruff's, and babies in swad- dling clothes like mummies, or the larvas of insects. The Church of St. Martin is also interesting from its architecture. In some period of the dark ages, a boy named Werner is said to have been most impiously crucified and put to death by the Jews in this place. A similar story is told in many other parts of the world ; even in England, at Gloucester, the same thing is said to have happened. It is ])robable that the whole was a fabrication, to ser\-e as a pretext for persecuting the Jews, and extorting money from them. A little chapel, erected to the memory of this Werner, stands upon the walls of the town close to the Rhine. (1.) Schunberg. Tliis ruined cas- tle on the rock was the cradle of an illustrious family of the same name. The English Schombergs are a branch of it, and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal Schomberg, sprang from the same stock. It receives its name (Beautiful Hill\ as the story goes, from seven beauteous daughters of the house, who by their charms turned ROUTE XXXVIII. THE RHINE. (D. 254 the heads of half the young knights far and near ; but were, at the same time, so hard-hearted that they would listen to the suits of none of them, and were therefore turned into seven rocks, which are seen even to this day projecting out of the bed of the Rhine below Oberwesel, when the water is low. (rt. ) Gutenfds, a ruined castle, above the town of Caub, tradition- ally said to be named after a fair lady called Guda, who was beloved by Richard of Cornwall, Emperor of Germany, and brother of our Henry III. In the thirty years' war, Gus- tavus Adolphus directed an attack upon the Spaniards posted on the op- posite bank, from its battlements. (rt. ) Caub (Inns: Stadt Heidel- berg ; — Krone), principally remark- able as the spot where Bliicher crossed the Rhine with his army on New Year's night, 1814. It was from the heights above that the view of the Rhine first burst upon the Prussians, and drew forth one si- multaneous and exulting cry of tri- umph. " To the Germans of every age this great river has been the object of an affection and reverence scarcely inferior to that with which an Egyp- tian contemplates the Nile, or the Indian his Ganges. \Mien these brave bands, having achieved the rescue of their native soil, came in sight of this its ancient landmark, the burden of a hundred songs, they knelt, and shouted The Rhine! the Rhine ! as with the heart and voice of one man. They that were behind rushed on, hearing tlie cry, in expec- tation of another battle." I. G. L. A toll is here \>a.\A by all vessels navigating the Rhine, to the Diikeof Nassau, the only chieftain remaining on the river who still exercises this feudal privilege. In the middle ages no less than thirty-two different tolls were established on the Rliine. In the middle of the river, oppo- site Caub, rises the quaint castle Sect. IV. called the Pfalz, built by the Empe- ror Lewis the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a convenient toll liouse ; it now belongs to the Duke of Nassau. According to a popular tradition it served, in former times, as a place of refuge and security whither the Coun- tesses Palatine repaired previous to their aceouehments, which, were it true, would be a proof of the inse- cure life led by princes as well as peasants in the turbulent times of the middle ages. Such an occurrence may have actually taken place in a single instance, but it is very unlikely that a rude toll house should repeat- edly have served as a princely abode. There are dungeons below the level of the river, in which state-prisoners of rank were once confined. The castle is accessible by means of a lad- der, and the entrance is closed by a portcullis. The well which supplies it with water is said to be filled from a source far deeper than the bed of the Rhine. * (1.) Bacharach (Inn: Die Post) is encircled by antique walls, and defended by twelve towers, of strength in former days, of picturesque and ornamental appearance at the pre- sent. They are singular in their construction, having only three walls, the side towards the town being open. The name Bacharach is only a slight alteration of the words Bacchi ara, the altar of Bacchus : a name conferred upon a rock in the bed of the river, usually covered with water, but in very dry seasons appearing above the surface. The sight of it is hailed with joy by the owner of the vineyard, who regards this as a sure sign of a fine vintage. As a proof of the goodness of the wine of this neigh- bourhood, we are told that Pope Pius II. (Eneas Silvius) used to import a tun of it to Rome every year ; and that the city of Nuremberg obtained its freedom in return for four casks of » 14 Bachariich. Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVIII. — the rhine. (D.) it, which her citizens presented anuu- ally to the Emperor Wenzel. (1.) Tlie truncated walls of the old castle of Stahleck, the ancient seat of the Electors Palatine, now the property of the Princess Royal of Prussia, their descendant, crown the high hill behind Bacharach. Be- tween them and the town stand the ruins of St. Werner s Church, an ex- quisite fragment of the florid Gothic style, built in 1428. " It was demo- lished by the Swedes in the thirty years' war, but stiU shows in its east end a lantern, rising on a rock sus- pended over the river, like a fairy fabric, the remains of the highest and most elegant lancet style existing." — Hope. The lofty pointed windows still retain in a perfect condition the most delicate tracerj- work. The body of the child Werner having been thrown by the Jews, his murderers, into the Rhine at Oberwesel, instead of descending with the current as all other bodies would have done, is reported to have ascended the stream as far as Ba- charach, where it was taken up, in- terred, and afterwards canonized. To do honour to his relics, this beau- tiful chapel was built over them. An hour or two should be devoted by every traveller to Bacharach, to enable him to enjoy the view from the castle of Stahleck, and to visit the chapel of Werner and the Lu- theran Church, which affords one of the finest examples of the round arched, or, as the Germans call it, Byzantine style of architecture, to be found on the Rhine. (rt.) A o///npe«, ruined castle ; be- low it Lorchausen village. Two stone gallows near this formerly marked the boundary line which divided the ancient territory of Mainz from the Palatinate. (1.) The round tower and shat- tered walls of Furstenberg rise above the village of Rheindiebach. The castle was reduced to a ruin by the 255 French in the war of the Orleans succession, 1689. (rt. ) Lorch, one of the oldest towns on the Rhine, snugly nestling in the mouth of the very picturesque valley of the Visp, whose entrance is guarded by the castles of Nollingen on the one side and Fiirsteneck on the other. The church at Lorch is one of the most ancient buildings on the Rhine, having been erected in the ninth century. Here commences the district called the Rheingau (valley of the Rhine), which extends upwards along the right bank as far as Walluf, and is remarkable as including all the most famous vineyards in which the best Rhenish wines are produced. (1.) The ruins of the castle of Heimberg appear above the top of the houses of Heimbach village, close on the shore ; higher up is the very picturesque turreted ruin of Sonneck ,- it was originally a robber-castle, and destroved as such by the Emperor Rudolph, 1282. Tlie rirer, on approaching Bingen and Assraanshausen, is truly " the castellated Rhine ; " the number of dismantled and dilapidated fortresses increases so much, that it is difficult to count them. (1.) The castles of Falkenburg, on the summit of a rocky height, and of Reichenstein and Rheinstcin, niched in, or perched upon the ridge lower down, form together a group for the painter. Under them, between the high road and the river, is the interesting Gothic Church of St. Clement, restored from a state of ruin by the Princess Fred- erick of Prussia. INIost of these re- sidences of knightly highwaymen fell before the strong arm of the law in 1282, having been condemned as rob- ber strongholds. The forces of the League of the Rhine carried into ex- ecution the sentence of the Diet of the empire, by storming and demo- lishing them, and thus put an end to 256 RTE. XXXVIII. — THE RHIKE.(D.) RHINE WINES. Scct. IV. the arbitrary exactions and predatory warfare of their owners. The system of pillage which pre- vailed throughout Germany among the rulers of these almost inaccessible fortresses, until the vigorous oppo- sition of the towns on the borders of the Rhine put an end to it, is well illustrated by the following anecdote. An archbisliop of Cologne, having built a castle, appointed a seneschal to the command of it. The governor, previous to entering upon his office, applied to the bishop to know from whence he was to maintain himself, no revenue having been assigned to him for that purpose. The prelate, by way of answer, merely desired him to observe that his castle stood close to the junction of four roads. A prac- tice very siinilar to the arbitrary mode of levying tolls and custom duties, adopted by these feudal tyrants, prevailed up to the last century in our own country, in the black-inail exacted by the Highland chiefs and nobles from merchants on their way to the fairs or markets of the north. One of these ruins has recently Ijeen restored as far as possible to its j original condition, but only to serve j the peaceful purpose of a summer residence for Prince Frederick of | Prussia : it is (1. ) The Castle of Vautsherg, or Neu- i Rheinstein. The interior has been ] very tastefully fitted up, in all re- j .spects after the manner of a knightly dwelling of the days of chivalry ; the walls hung with ancient armour, the windows filled with painted glass, and the furniture either actually col- lected from ancient castles and con- vents, or made conformably to the fashions of former days, so that every article is in keeping with the general design. These and other cu- riosities which it contains have ren- dered Rheinstein one of the " Lions " of the Rhine, and it is most liberally thrown ojien to strangers, who are conducted round the castle by a do- mestic who bears the ancient title of Sc/dossvoffJtt. Jf'lnes and Vineyards of the Rhine. Opposite to Rheinstein is the vil- lage (rt. ) of Assmanshausen, which gives its name to a red wine of high reputation and price. The hills be- hind and around the town wliich produce it, are so very steep that it is only by artificial means, often by planting the vines in baskets, that any soil can be retained round their roots. The vineyards are nothing more than a succession of terraces, or steps, extending from the top to the bottom of the hills, some of which must be nearly 1000 feet high. In some places more than twenty ter- races may be counted, rising one above the other. They are supported by walls of masonry from five to ten feet high, and the breadth of some of the ledges on which the vines grow, is not more than twice the height of the walls. To reach many of these narrow plots, the vine-dressers, female as well as male, must scale the precipices, and hang as it were from the face of the rocks, while a great deal of the soil itself and every particle of ma- nure must be carried up on their shoulders. This will give some idea of tlie labours and expense of such cultivation, and of the great value of every inch of ground in these narrow strips, to repay it. Tlie life of the Rheinland vine- dresser indeed presents a rare ex- ample of industry and perseverance. Though by no means rich, they arc generally the proprietors of the vine- yards they cultivate ; and, though their appearance does not altogether verify that which painters draw and poets describe, they at least exhibit an aspect of cheerfulness and intelli- gence. Independently of the hardness of the labour of cultivating the vine, which is not confined to any one Prussia, rte. XXXVIII. — the rhine. (D.) — rhixe wines. 257 season, but must be carried on per- severingly through the whole year, and is most severe during the heat of summer : the vine is a delicate plant, — frost, rain, or hail may in a few hours annihilate the pro- duce upon which the cultivator de- pends solely for subsistence. One or two successive seasons of failure will ruin even an opulent family ; but when the vintage is good, few of the small ])roprietors are rich enough to be able to wait until they can obtain a favourable market, but must part with the wine soon after it is made, to the rich speculators, who buy up the whole produce of a district, and take the chance of its turning out good or bad. Beyond the point on which As- raanshausen stands, the Rhine, whose course has hitherto been from S. E. to N. W., changes materially its tlirection, and flows from E. to W., pursuing this course as far as >Ia- yence. From the advantageous exposure produced by this bend in the river, arises the excellence of the wines of the district of the Rheingau, as the rays of the midday sun, instead of being received obliquely, fall full butt upon the vineyards situated on the right bank of the river, and all the best wines are confined to that side. The slaty soil of the hills seems pecu- liarly favourable for retaining the intense heat of the sun's rays, so ne- cessary for bringing the grape to per- fect maturity ; and in addition, this favoured portion of the valley of the Rhine is sheltered from X. and E. winds to a great extent, by the inter- vening barrier of mountains. The Rheingau is divided into the Upper and Lower Cantons ( Ge- markung) relatively to the position of the vineyards near the summits of the hills, or on the margin of the river ; the high grounds produce the strongest wines, while that of the low ground has an earthy taste ; that which grows at a moderate height j between the two extremes is consi- i dered the most wholesome and the best ; though much depends on the season, which is sometimes favour- able to the produce of the heights, sometimes to that of the inferior slopes. Among the Rhine wines (impro- perly called Hock in England) the Johannisberg and Steinberg rank first, and on an etjual footing, for their exquisite flavour and evanescent bou- quet. Next follow Rudesheini (Berg) Markobrunner and Rothenberg, which possess much body and aroma. Hock- heim (which grows on tlie banks of the Maine, not in the Rheingau) ranks with the best of these 2nd class wines. Of the inferior wines, those of Erbach and Hattenheim are tlie best. The lighter wines, however, are apt to be liard and rather acid ; as table wines. The Laubenheim and Nierstein, from the Palatinate above Mayencc, and the delicately-flavoured ^Moselles, are much preferred to them as table wines in Germany. The best red Rhine wine is the Asmanshausen. The vine chiefly cultivated on the Rhine is called Riesling ; it yields a wine of fine flavour : the Orleans grape produces a strong-bodied wine. The vintage on the Rhine used to take place in the middle of October ; but, by the present system, it is de- layed, in the best vineyards, to No- vember : in fact, it is put off to the last moment the grapes will hang on the bunches. To make the best wines the grapes are sorted, and those only of the best quality em- ployed. The riper bunches are first selected, and the rest left to hang for days or weeks longer. 'nie culture of the vine was intro- duced on the Rhine and IMosell by the Emperor Probus. The Rossel (rt. ), a little tower standing on the brink of the heights above Assmanshausen, and just dis- cernible from the river below, is si- tuated within the verge of the Forest 258 ROUTE XXXVIII.— THE RHINE. (D.) ScCt. IV. of NiederwaMf and commands one of the most magnificent views upon the whole course of the Rhine. As-smanshausen is a good point from which to commence the ascent of the Niederwald, though Bingen or Rudesheim, where the inns are better, should be made the head-quarters. We have now reached the upper limit of the gorge of the Rhine, commencing near Boppart, and af- fording so much grand scenery. Be- tween Bingen and Boppart, the Rhine cuts across a chain of mountains running nearly at right angles to the course of its stream. There are good grounds for supposing that at one time (before human record), they entirely stopped its further pro- gress, damming up the waters behind them into a lake which extended as far as Biisle, and whose existence is further proved by numerous fresh- water deposits, shells, &c., to be found in the valley of the Rhine above Mayence. Some vast convul- sion, such as an earthquake, or per- haps even the force of the accumu- lated waters alone, must have burst through this mountain-wall, and made for the river the gorge or ravine by which it now obtains a free pas- sage to the ocean. A species of dyke or wall of rock, running obliquely across the river at this spot, is perhaps a remnant of this colossal barrier. It is passable for ves- sels only at one spot, where a channel called Binger Loch (Hole of Bingen) has been cut through it by artificial means. The impediments occasioned by it in the navigation of the river have been reduced from time to time ; but tlie greatest improvement has been effected within two or three years, by the Prussian government, under whose direction the passage has been widened from 20 to 2 1 feet, by blasting the sunken rocks in the bed of the Rhine. (1.) In commemoration of this im- provement, a small monument has been set up by the road side; the pedestal of the obelisk is formed of the stones extracted from the bed of the river. This navigable channel, three feet deep, lies near the rt. bank, under the shattered walls of the castle of Ehretifth, an ancient stronghold of the Archbishops of Mayence, built in 1218. Near to the 1. bank, surrounded by the river, and not far from the spot where the waters of the Nahe unite with those of the Rhine, rises the little, square Mouse Tower, re- nowned for The Tradition of Bishop Hatto. The summer and autumn had been so wet, That in winter the corn was growing yet, 'T was a piteous sight to see all around, The grain lie rotting on the ground. Every day the starving poor Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door, For he had a plentiful last year's store ; And all the neighbourhood could tell His granaries were lurnish'd well. At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day To quiet the poor without delay : He bade them to his great barn repair. And they should have food for the winter there. Rejoiced at such tidings good to hear, The poor folk flock'd from far and near ; The ^reat barn was full as it could hold Of women and children, and young and old. Then when he saw it could hold no more. Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; And while for mercy on Christ they call. He set lire to the barn, and burnt them all. " I'faith 'tis an excellent bonfire "."quoth he, " And the country is greatly obliged to me. For ridding it, in these times forlorn. Of rats that only consume the corn." So then to his palace returned he. And he sat down to supper merrily. And he slept that night like an innocent man, But Bishop Hatto never slept again. In the morning as he enter'd the hall Where his picture hung against the wall, A sweat like death all o'er him came. For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. As he look'd there came a man from his farm, He had a countenance white with alarm. " My Lord, I open'd your granaries this morn. And the rats had eaten all your corn." Another came running presently. And he was pale as pale could be ; " Fly 1 my lord bishop, fly." quoth he, " Ten thousand rats arc coming this way, The Lord forgive you for yesterday !" Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVIII. — the Rhine. (D.) 259 "I'll go to my tower on the Rhine," re- plied he, " 'Tis the safest placft in Germany ; The walls are high and the shores are steep. And the stream is strong and the water deep." Bi'hop Hatto fearfully hastcn'd away. And be crossed the Khine without delay, And reach 'd his tower, andbarr'd with care. All the windows, doors, and loop-holes there. He laid him down, and closed his eyes ; — But soon a scream made him arise. He started, and saw two eyes of flame On his pillow, from whence the screaming came. He listen'd and look'd ; it was only the cat ; But the bishop he grew more fearful for that. For she sat screaming, mad with fear At the army of rats that were drawing near. For they have swam over the river so deep, And they have climb'd the shores so steep, And now by thousands up they crawl To the holes and windows in the wall. Down on his knees the bishop fell. And faster .ind faster his beads did he tell, As louder and louder, drawing near. The saw of their teeth without he could hear. And in at the windows, and in at the door. And through the walls by thousands they pour. And down through the ceiling and up through the floor. From the right and the left.from behind and before. From within and without, from above and below; And all at once to the bishop they go. They have whetted their teeth against the stones. And now they pick the bishop's bones ; They pnaw'd the flesh from every limb. For they were sent to do judgment on him. SOUTHEV. Having given the romantic tradi- tion, it is j)roper to add the prosaic and matter-of-fact history of the little tower. It appears to have been built in the thirteenth century, by a Bishop Siegfried (full 200 years after the death of Bishop Hatto), along with the opposite castle of Ehrenfels, as a watch-tower and toll-house for collecting the duties upon all goods which passed the spot. Tlie word nuius is probably only an older form of mauth, duty, or toll, and this name, taken in combination with the very unpopular object for which the tower was erected, perhaps gave rise to the dolorous story of Bishop Hatto 2uid the rats. (1.) Tlie confluence of the Nahe and the Rhine. — Tacitus mentions the bridge of Drusus over the Nahe : the existing structure, erected 1011, and many times renewed, perhaps rests on Roman foundations. The Nahe di- vides the territory of Prussia from that of Hesse Darmstadt ; but as the two states are now united under the same system of customs there is no longer any visitation of baggage by douaniers for those who pass from one into the other. 2. {\.) Bingen. Inns: Weisse Ross (White Horse), facing the river ; — the Post is not so well situated, but it is at least as good. The very in- teresting scenery in this neighbour- hood is entirely lost to those who con- tent themselves with merely passing up and down the river in a steam-boat. Two days may be well spent be- tween Bingenand Rudesheim, though an active pedestrian would easily ex- plore the three most interesting spots, the Rochusburg, Rheinstein, and the Niederwald, in one day. A very pleasant excursion may be made up the Nahe from Bingen to Kreuz- nach and Oberstein (Route C). Bingen has 4000 inhabitants, and considerable trade for its size. In the town itself, there is not much to be seen. The ruin called Klopp, or Drusus' Castle, above it, is said to have been buUt by the Roman ge- neral whose name it still bears, B.C. 13. [?] The view from it is fine, but not equal to that from (1.) The white Chapel of St. Roch ( Rochus Capelle), on the summit of the hill above Bingen, directly oppo- site Rudesheim. Tlie ascent to it takes half an hour — it may be made in a light carriage. Tlie terrace be- hind the chapel almost overhangs the Rhine, and commands a prospect not only up, but down the river. The 16th of August is St. Roch's day, when many thousand pilgrims as- semble from all parts to pay their vows, and offer their prayers to him. Goethe has written a very pleasing 260 ROUTE XXXVIII. — THE RHINE. (D.) Sect. IV. description of one of these festivals. He presented to the Chapel the altar- piece which decorates its interior. Instead of descending by the same road, it is well worth while to take the foot-path leading round the back of the hill to a knoll called the Scharlachkopf, which commands an entirely different view — of the val- lev and windings of the lovely Nahe ; the liorizon is bounded by the Hunds- riick mountains and the iSIont Ton- nerre (Donnersberg), while immedi- ately under the spectator lie the bridge and town of Bingen. The slopes at the back of the hill have nearly the same exposure as the vineyards of the Rheingau, and pro- duce a wine but little inferior to them. One hour and a half will suffice for this walk, which, instead of a single view, presents a complete panorama of the surrounding country. The favourite excursion, however, from Bingen, is the visit to the heights above Uudesheim and As- manshausen, called the Niederwald, which may be made in three or four hours, but which well deserves to have half a day devoted to it. The following plan of the excursion, hav- ing been already tried, will probably be considered worth adopting by others. " Take a boat from Bingen, and descend the Rhine in twenty minutes to the castle of Rheinstein (p. 256). If you go on foot you will save two miles at least by crossing the Nahe at the ferry under the church of Bin- gen, instead of going round by the stone bridge. After seeing the castle, cross the Rhine to Assmanshausen. This wine-producing village sup- ports a troop of donkeys for the ex- press purpose of transporting visitors to the tO)) of the heights of the Nieder- wald. The charge for a donkey to Rudesheim is Ifl. 15kr. Those who prefer walking may experience some difficulty in finding their way among the numerous patlis through the woods, without a jjuide. " After ascending the gully he- hind the village for about a mile, as far up as the vine grows, a path will be found to the right, which leads to the Juffd ScJihss, hunting seat of the Count Bassenheim, the proprietor of the Niederwald, where refreshments may be had. This may be reached in three-quarters of an hour from As- manshausen ; ten minutes more will bring you to the Bezaiiberte Il'dhle (magic cave.) Do not attempt to dis- solve the charm attached to the spot, but enter, without asking question.?, and you will be rewarded. Within the space of a few feet, three vistas, cut through the trees, disclose three beautiful landscapes of the Rhine, each different from the other, and having all the effect of a diorama. "At no great distance from the enchanted cave is the Rossel, an artificial ruin, perched on the very verge of the precipice, which at a great height overlooks the black pools and turbulent eddies of the Bingerloch. The ruin of Ehrenfels appears half-way dow n, hanging as it were to the face of the rock. " The view is not surpassed by any in the whole course of the Rhine. " From this point the path again dives into the wood, and at the end of about a mile emerges at (rt. ) " Tlie Temple, a circular building supported on pillars, planted on the brow of the hill, which com- mands another and quite different prospect, extending up the Rhine, and across to the hills of the Berg- strasse and Odenwald. Tlie author of Pelham calls this ' one of the noblest landscapes of earth.' " The agreeable shade of tlic beech and oak trees, composing the forest of the Niederwald, completely excludes the sun, and renders this excursion doubly ])leasant in summer time. " To descend to Rudesheim from the Temj)le will not take more than half an hour by the i)ath leading through the vineyards which produce the famous Rudesheim wine. Late Rhenish Prussia, route XXXVIII. — the rhine. (D.) 261 in the autumn, wlien the grapes be. gin to ripen, the direct path is closed up, and a slight detour of an addi- tional quarter of an hour must be made." (rt. ) Radesheiin. Inns: Engel ( Angel ), close to the water. A com- fortable inn, kept by Ackerman, whose cellars are well provided with good lludesheimer ; — Darmstiidter Hof, also very good. The excursion to the Niederwald, which is not more than a mile dis- tant, may be made from hence quite as wellas from Assmanshausen. The traveller will generally find donkeys or mules ready saddled to convey him. The best quality of the famed Kudesheim wine grows upon the ter- races overhanging the Rhine, close to Ehrenfels. There is a tradition that Charlemagne, remarking from his residence at Ingelheim that the snow disappeared sooner from these heights than elsewhere, and perceiving how favourable such a situation would prove for vineyards, ordered vines to be brought hither from Burgundy and Orleans. The grapes are still called Orleans. Close behind the houses of Kudesheim grows a very- good wine, called, from the position of the vineyard, Ilinterhauser. At the lower extremity of the town, close to the water's edge, stands the liromserburg, a singularly mas- sive quadrangular castle of great anti- quity, consisting of 3 vaulted stories, supported on walls varying between 8 and 14 ft. in thickness. Though a ruin, it is carefully preserved from further decay, and several rooms have been neatly fitted up in it by its present owner. Count Ingelheim. The tall tower in the shape of an obelisk, ad- joining it, is called Boosenburg. Another castle, the Bromserhof, higher up, was the family residence of the knightly race of Bromser, long since extinct. " Tradition says that one of these knights, Bromser of Rudesheini, on repairing to Palestine, signalised himself by destroying a dragon, which was the terror of the Christian army. No sooner had he accom- plished it, tlian he was taken prisoner by the Saracens ; and while languish- ing in captivity, he made a vow, that if ever he returned to his castle of Kudesheim, he would devote his only daughter Gisela to the church, lie arrived at length, a pilgrim at his castle, and was met by his daughter, now grown into a lovely woman. Gisela loved, and was beloved by, a young knight from a neighbouring castle — and she heard with con- sternation her father's vow. Her tears and entreaties could not change his purpose. He threatened her with his curse if she did not obev: and, in the midst of a violent storm, she precipitated herself from the tower of the castle into the Khine be- low. The fishermen found her corpse the next day in the river by the Tower of Hatto ; and the boatmen and vint- agers at this day fancy they some- times see the pale form of Gisela hovering about the ruined tower, and hear her voice mingling its lamenta- tions witii the mournful whistlings of the wind." — Autumn near the Rhine. The Bromserhof is now turned into common dwelling-houses, and the an- tiquities it contained are partly re- moved to Johannisberg. They con- sisted of old furniture, family pictures, &c., together with the chain which hound the knight Johann Bromser while a prisoner in Palestine. There is a ferry over the Khine between Kempten and Kudesheim ; carriages may be hired here to pro- ceed on to Mainz or Wisbaden, as well as job horses : there are no post horses between Kudesheim and ]\Iayence on the left bank of the Khine. A diligence goes dally from Kudesheim to Wisbaden. ASCENT OF THE RHINE CONTINUED. The shortest road from Bingen to Mayence is by Ingelheim ( Koute XCVIII.), keeping on the lefl side 262 ROUTE XXXVIII. THE RHINE. (D.) Sect, IV. ofthe Rhino. Those who wish to visit the Brunncn of Nassau on their way, cross over by the ferry from Hin- gen to Rudeshcim, and take the road along the right bank of the Rhine. They should stop at Rudcsheim to see the Niederwald (if they have not visited it before) ; at Johannisberg to see the chateau and vineyard ; at Hattenheim (where they may dine) to see the old convent of Eberbach, two miles out of the road ; and they had better stipulate with the driver, before setting out, to make these halts. If they are bound to Schlan- genbad ( Route XCV. ), they may turn to the left away from the Rhine, at Walluf ; if they are going to Wisba- den they proceed on to Bieberich before they quit it ; and if they wish to reach Cassel and Mayence they continue by its side. Above the Niederwald and the Rochusberg the mountains subside into gentle slopes, and the taller ridges of Taunus recede to a distance from the river. Although the suc- ceeding district appears tame in com- parison with that already passed when viewed from the river, yet when seen from any of the heights which command the Rheingau (val- ley ofthe Rhine), it will be found to possess beauties of a softer kind, com- bined with a richness and cheerful- ness which is well calculated to draw forth admiration. (rt. ) Geissenheim. Inns : Krone, Schwan. There is another famous vineyard near this small town of 2400 inhabitants. It lies upon the hill called the Rothenberg, which is much frequented on account of its fine view. The old Gothic church at Geissen- heim contains the monument of Count Schcinborn. (rt.) The very conspicuous white mansion on the heights, at some little distance from the river, is the Ch&teuu of Johinnishvry, the property of Prince INIetternich, standing in the midst of the vineyards, which pro- duce the most famous of the Rhine wines. Tlie house, though seldom inhabited, has been enlarged by its present owner ; it is not remarkable, but the view from the windows and terraces is very fine. It is difficult to obtain admittance to the cellars. The first owners of the vineyard of Jo- hannisberg were the monks ; it was originally attached to the abbey and convent of St. John ; afterwards secularised. In the beginning of the present 'century it belonged to the Prince of Orange ; but before it had been in his possession three years. Napoleon made over the vine- yard as a gift to Marshal Keller- man. At the close of the war it again changed hands, and in 1816 was presented by the Emperor of Austria to Prince Metternich. The best wine grows close under the castle, and indeed partly over the cellars. The species of vine culti- vated here is the Riesling. The management of it at all seasons re- quires the most careful attention. The grapes are allowed to remain on the vines as long as they can hold to- gether, and the vintage usually be- gins a fortnight later than any where else. The vine-grower is not satis- fied witli ripeness, the grape must verge to rottenness before it suits his purpose ; and although much is lost in quantity by this delay in gather- ing, it is considered that the wine gains thereby in strength and body. So precious are the grapes, that those which fall are picked ofT tlie ground with a kind of fork made for the pur- pose. The extent of the vineyard is about fifty-five acres. Its produce amounts, in good years, to about 40 butts (cal- led stiicks), each of "5 ohms, and has been valued at 80,000 fl. The Rhine here attains its greatest breadth, 2000 feet, spreading itself out to about double the width which it has below Rudesheini ; at Cologne it is only 1300 feet broad; and at Wesel only 1500 feet. In the middle of its channel are numerous small is- Jihenisk Prussia, route XXXVIII. — the rhine. (D.) 263 lands extending all the way up to IMayence. (it.) Winkel (Vini Cella, so called because Charlemagne's wine cellar was situated here) and Ostrich, two unimportant villages. (rt. ) Count Schonborn's chateau Reichartshausen, at the lower ex- tremity of the village of Hutletiheim (7000 inhabitants) contains an inter- esting collection of paintings, chiefly modern ; among them is a capital iv-ork of our own IVilkie, called " Guess my name. " A little higher up the river, upon the hill of Strahlenberg, grows the famous Markobrunner wine, so named from a small spring or foun- tain close to the high road, which here runs on the borders of the river. The nobles of the Rheingau, once so numerous, rich, and powerful, arc greatly diminished in number and wealth ; the chief of those ancient families still residing on its banks are the Counts Bassenheim, Ingelheim, and Schcinborn ; these, with Prince Metternich and the Duke of Nassau, possess the best vineyards on the Rhine. (rt. ) Erbach, Inn, Traube ; a small Tillage. An excursion may be made either from Hattenheim (by a road, 2 miles), or from the next village Erbach, to the convent of Eberbach, once the most considerable monastic establishment on the Rhine. It is prettily situated at the foot of the hills, in a sheltered nook, nearly sur- rounded by woods, which, sweeping down the sIojjcs, spread themselves like a mantle around it. It was founded by St. Bernard de Clairvaux in 1131. It is now the property of the Duke of Nassau, and is converted into a prison and asylum for maniacs, for which it is well calculated by its vast extent. These establishments are exceedingly well managed, but they are not readily shown to stran- gers. More accessible and interest- ing to those who take pleasure in seeing Gothic buildings are the Churches. The oldest of these, a small building in the round style, sup- ported by two rows of slender columns, is probably part of the first foundation of St. Bernard, erected 1131. It is now occupied by wine- presses, and some of the best Rhine wines are made in it. The larger Church, a spacious edifice also in the round or Romanesque style was built 1 186 : it is an ample edifice, and has lately been restored as a place of worship. The long dormitory in the pointed gothic of the XlVth century, and the Chapter-house of the XVth, also merit notice. The vaults under these buildings are used by the Duke of Nassau as cellars, to contain what he calls his Cabinet of Wines, comprising a col- lection of the choicest productions of the vineyards of the Rheingau. The celebrated Steinberg vine- yard, once the property of the monks of Eberbach, now of the Duke of Nassau, lies upon the slope of the hill close to the convent. The wine produced from it is esteemed quite as much as Johannisberg ; and the cul- ture of it is managed with even greater care and cost than that vineyard. It consists of about 100 valuable acres enclosed within a ring fence, the high wall is passed in going to Hatten- heim or Erbach. In the spring of 1836, half of the finest wines in the Duke's cellars were sold by public auction. The cask which was con- sidered the best, the flower, or as the Germans call it, the Bride (Braut) of the cellar, was purchased for the enor- mous sum of 6100 fl., = about 500/., by Prince Emile of Hesse. It con- tained 3^ ohms, about 600 bottles of cabinet Steinberger of 1822, and it carried the palm over the Johannis- berg, which never obtained such a price, the largest ever given for any Rhine wine, equivalent to about '24*. a bottle. From the Grotto on the Boss, a neighbouring height, a view is ob- tained which the author of the Bub- bles calls " the finest he had witnessed in this country." 264' ROUTE XXXVIII. — THE RHINE. ( D.) MAYEKCE. Sect. IV. (1.) In the distance, on the top of the hill, nearly opposite, or on a line with Eltville, may be discerned In- gelheim, the favourite residence of Charlemagne, now a poor village (Route XCVIII.). Charlemagne used to resort to the low islands in the middle of the llliine from Ingelheim to lish. His unfortunate son Lewis, pursued by his own impious sons, ended his days on one of them, a fugitive. (rt. ) The large building between l-'.rbach and EUfield is the Draiser Ilof, once an appendage to the con- vent of Eberbach. (rt.) Ellfield, or Eltville. (Inns: the Rose; — Hirsch (Stag,) is the principal town of the Rheingau, with 2000 inhabitants ; conspicuous from its situation, and picturesque from its Gothic towers. In the pretty valley behind, lies the village of Kiedrich with a beautiful Gothic church (date, end of X^'th cent.) the chapel of St. Michael, and the tower of Schar- fenstein, once the residence of the bishops of Mayence, above it. It is liere that the Grafenberg wine is pro- duced. (rt. ) Nieder'SVallufand Sehierstein villages. Here ends the Rheingau, "the Bacchanalian Paradise," which, bounded by the Taunus hills on one side, and the Rhine on the other, ex- tends along the right bank of the river as far down as Lorch. It was given to the Archbishops of IMainz, by a Carlovingian king, and was pro- tected by a wall and ditch, some por- tion of which may still be seen near Biberich. A road turns of at Walluf to Sclilangenbad( Route XC^^ ). (rt. ) About four miles behind Sehierstein is the village of Frauen- steiii, witli a ruined castle, and an enormous plane-tree. (1. ) Biberich. The Chateau, or Residenz Schloss of the Duke of Nassau. It is one of the handsomest palaces on the Rhine ; tlie interior is .shown to strangers : it is remarkable for the splendour and taste with which it is fitted up, and commands from its windows most exquisite prospects up and down the Rhine. The gardens behind are very pretty, and are liberally thrown open to the public. In the minature castle of Mosbach, within their circuit, a number of Roman antiquities are preserved. Biberich stands on the limits of the Duchy of Nassau. Above this, the right as well as the lefl bank of the Rhine belong to Hesse Darm- stadt. The red towers of Mayence (1.), now appear in sight surrounded by fortifications, connected by a bridge of boats over the Rhine, with the fortified suburb of Cassel, which forms the tete du pont. (rt. ) Below Cassel, and almost contiguous to it, is the fort of Monte- bello. The steamer usually reaches IMa- yence before the last diligence leaves for Frankfort. There is also a dili- gence daily to Darmstadt, or if the traveller be on his way to Heidelberg and Switzerland, and does not wish to visit either of these cities, he will find a diligence direct to IVIanhcim and Heidelberg every morning. (1.) IVIayknce (Germ. Mainz). Inns: Hotel de Hollande, a large new building facing the Rhine, and neiir the steam-boats — the best ; Rhein- ischcr Hof, in the same situation, good ; — Alzcyer Hof; — Romischer Kaiser. Florins and krcutzcrs here come into use (Sect. "S'lII. ); but Prussian dollars arc still current. Mayence, the Moguntiacum of the Romans, belongs to the Grand Duke of Hesse Darmstadt, and is the most considerable and important town in his dominions ; but, as the chief and strongest fortress of the German Confederation, it is garrisoned by Prussian and Austrian troops in nearly equal ninnbers, and is com- manded by a governor elected alter- nately from either nation for a pe- riod of five years. It lies on the left Rhenish Pruss. R. XXXVIII. — the riiine. (D.) — mayexce. 265 carved, those of the Emperors Henry VII., Louis the Bavarian, and John King of Bohemia, — all of whom he had crowned: but while his figure is on a scale as large as life, theirs are only half the size. The other remarkable monuments are those of Albert of Brandenburgh, andof Baron Dalberg, the oldest Baron, in Germany. A winged licad of Time, attached to the monument of Bernard von Breidenbach, in the transept, is executed with great expression and no mean skill, by an artist named Mel- chior. Two other monuments, so hum- ble and unprepossessing in themselves, that they might easily escape all notice, deserve mention on account ol the persons whose memories they re- cord. The one is that of Fastrada, Queen of Charlemagne (794) by the side of the Beautiful Doorway leading into the cloisters. She was not buried here, but in a church now destroyed, from which the monument was removed. The other is the tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger Frauenlob, " Praise the Ladies," so called from the complimentary cha- racter of his verses. His real name was Heinrich von Meissen. He was a canon of Mainz cathedral, and so great a favourite of tlie fair sex, that his bier was supported to the grave by eight ladies, who poured over it libations of wine at the same time that they bathed it with their tears. His monument, a plain red tomlj- stone, stands against the wall of the cloisters. It bears his portrait in low relief, copied from the original, which was destroyed by the careless- ness of some workmen. An ancient brazen font (1328) be- hind the eastern altar, and the brazen doors opening into the Market-place (called Speise Markt) also deserve notice. Upon the valves of the doors is engraved an ancient edict, by which an Archbishop of Mayence conferred various privileges upon the town, in consideration of the aid which the citizens, his subjects, had N bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite the junction of the Main ; it has 31,180 inhabitants. The garrison augmented after the events of 1 830 to 16,000, was reduced in 1836 to the footing of the peace establishment of 8000 men. Upon the Quai, near the place where the steamer stops, are two large red buildings. The first is the ancient Palace of the Electors of Mayence, who were Archiepiscopal sovereigns and princes of the empire ; it is now degraded into a warehouse. The other is the Deutsche Haus (Teu- tonic House) ; it served as a resi- dence for Napoleon, and has now become the Palace of the Governor of the fortress. The most remarkable objects in Mainz are, the Cathedral, less inter- esting for any beauty of architecture (as it is built in the massive, round arched Gothic style) than for its great antiquity, having been begun in the Xth, and finished in the Xlth centur)-. The building however has sufiered so much at different times from conflagrations, from the Prussian bombardment of 1 793, and afterwards from having been converted into a barrack and magazine by the French, that the only portion of the original structure, remaining in a tolerably perfect state, is that behind the altar at the eastern end. (978 — 1009.) In this church, as well as in those of Worms, Treves, and Spire, there is a double choir, and high altars both at the east and west ends. The in- terior is loaded with monuments of episcopal electors of Mainz, and the side chapels abound in carvings, which have recently been repaired with per- haps too lavish an expenditure of paint, gilding, and whitewash. The archbishops of Mainz had the right of j)lacing the crown on the head of the German Emperors, and are fre- quently represented on their tombs in that act. That of bishop Peter von Asfeldt (1305 — 1320) bears, in ad- dition to his own effigy rudely 266 ROUTE XXXVIII THE RHINE. (D.) — MAYEXCE. SeCt. IV. afibrdid him, in rescuing liim out of tlic liands of the Emperor. They procured his release from jirison by seizing on the person of the Emperor, and detaining him as a liostage until their own sovereign was delivered up. The double chapel of St. Gothard, adjoining the N.W. transept, is a particidarly interesting specimen of Gothic, on account of the period at which it was built (1136.). It is therefore to be regretted that, for the sake of a few paltry dollars' rent, it should be let as a leather warehouse. The first Archbishop of INIayence was Boniface, an Englishinau, who left his country with eleven other iiionks, to preach the Gospel to the barbarous nations of Germany ; in the course of his mission he converted more than 100,000 heathens, and be- came the apostle of Germany. ■'■ The Elector, who was at the same time Archbishopof Mayence, was pre- mier prince in the German cmjure ; he presided at Diets, and at the Election of Emperor, where he exercised very powerful influence, so that one Pri- mate Werner, on proposing a candi- date is reported to have added, " I have others in my pocket." His domi- nions comprehended 14G German square miles, with a population of 400,000 souls, and a revenue of IJ million of florins. He maintained a body-guard of 2000 men, and a squadron of huzzars. The canons of the Cathedral, sup- ported by its enormous revenues, lived a jovial life, as may be gathered from the answer they returned to the Pope, who had reproved them for their M-orldly and luxurious habits: " We have more wine than is needed for the mass, and not enough to turn our mills with." The Fuhlic Gardens (Xeue Anlag- cu) outside the fortifications, be- yond the Ncue Tlior, and nearly op- posite the mouth of the Main, are highly deserving of a visit, on ac- count of the beautiful view tliey com- mand of the junction of the Main and Rhine, of the town of Mayence, the Rheingau, and the distant range of the Taunus. To add to the attrac- tions of this charming spot, the ex- cellent military bands of tlie Aus- trian and Prussian regiments play here once a week, on Friday, between 4 and 6 p. m. There is a cafe at one extremity of the garden, forming the favourite evening resort of the inlia- bitants in summer. Another good view may be had from the top of the Tower of Dnisus, an ancient Roman structure, believed by some to be the tomb of Drusus, whose body was brought to ISIayence after his death. From mutilation or decay, its base is now reduced to smaller dimensions than the upper part, which may have produced in It a fancifid resemblance to an acorn, and perhaps have given rise to the name acorn stone (Eichelstcin) by which it is vulgarly known. It stands within the citadel, on which account it cannot be visited without a permission from a military oflScer. The Theatre, a new and handsome building, designed by Moller, after the classical model of the theatres of the ancients, is almost a solitary ex- ample of a modern theatre in which the outer form bears soine relation to the interior. The music of the Austrian and Prussian military bands, which may be heard on parade almost every day in the week during summer, is re- markably good. The gates of Mayence are closed at ten at night, after which hour they are not opened, except to those who travel by Eilwagen, or extra-post. jMainz has its Museum of paint- ings, of no great excellence, and of antiquities, curious, because for the most part found in tlie neighbourhood, such as Roman altars, votive tablets, and inscriptions, in which the names of the Legions stationed on this spot are commemorated. There are also several ca])itals of columns from the palace of Charlemagne, at Ingelheim, Rhenish Pruss. R. XXXVIII. — the Rhine. (D.) — mayence. 267 Gutcmbei'g, the discoverer or inven- tor of moveable types. In 18;) 7 a bronze statue of Gutemberg, modelled by Thorwaldsen, a Dane, and cast at Paris by a Frenchman, was erected in the open space opposite tlic Thea- tre. The expenses (2G,000fl. ) were de- frayed by subscriptions from all parts of Europe. His house no longer ex- ists ; but upon its site stands the Casino, a club or "reading-room, the members of which have erected a small statue of Gensfleisch in the court of the building, which goes by the name of tlie Hof zum Gutemberg. Gensfleisch "^(literally, goose-flesh) was born between 1393 and 1400, in the corner house between the Emeran St. and the Pfandhaus St., which still exists, and his first printing- ofl^ce, from 1443 to 1450, is the house called Hof zum Jungen. Gutemberg was buried in the church of St. Francis, now pulled down : it stood opposite to the Hof zum Humbrecht, and the new houses of the Schuster Gasse now occupy its site. The bookseller von Zabern, in the street beyond the Theatre, keeps a good iissortment of English, French, and German books. X bridge of boats, 1 666 feet long, over the Rhine, unites IVrainz to Cassel, a miseral)le faubourg, but strongly fortified as a tete-du-pont. At the extremity of the bridge a blockhouse has recently been erected. In time of peace it serves as a bar- rack ; but in case of war the roof can be removed, and the upper platform mounted with cannon. The building is bomb-proof. A Railroad is projected, if not al- ready begun, to connect INIayence with Wiesbaden and Frankfort. Wies- baden (Route XCV.) is distant only six or eight miles from 3Iayence by the high road, five miles by foot- paths across the fields. On the way thither the Cliateau of Biberich and its agreeable gardens may be visited (p. 264). The most economical mode of making the excursion is to N 2 in the style of Roman Architecture ; some fragments of sculpture from the venerable Kaufhaus of !Mayence, pulled down without cause some years ago ; and a model of the double bridge which Napoleon proposed to throw over the Rliine here. The Town Library is a very respectable collection, where are preserved some interesting specimens of the earliest printing. IMayence has been from very early times a frontier fortress. It owes its existence to the camp which Drusus pitched here, which the Ro- mans afterwards converted into a permanent bulwark against their German foes. Though reduced from its former wealth and splendour by the fortunes of war, and still showing, in its irregular streets and shattered and truncated buildings, the effects of sieges and bombardments, it ought not to be regarded merely as a dull garrison town. Europe is indebted to this city for two things which have had the greatest influence in affecting hu- man improvement : — Free Trade (in its most just sense) and the Print- ing Press. It was a citizen of 3Iay- ence, named Walpolden, who first suggested the plan of freeing com- merce from the oppressive exactions of the knightly highwaymen, with whose strongholds the whole Continent was overspread at the l)eginning of the Xlllth century, by a confedera- tion of cities which led to the for- mation of the Rhenish, and after- wards of the more famous Hansoatic League. This same Walpoden de- serves to be held in grateful remem- brance by every Rhine tourist ; since many of the ruined castles which line its banks were reduced to their present picturesque condition at bis instigation, and under the energetic rule of the Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg, as being the haunts and strongholds of tyranny and rapine. Mainz was the cradle of the art of printing, and the birth-place and residence of John Gensfleisch, called 268 ROUTE XXXIX THE AHR VALLEY. Sect. IV. cross over the bridge on foot, and thereby save a heavy toll, to Cassel, where carriages in abundance may be hired. A swarm of coachmen will be found hovering round the bridge, who will take a passenger for two florins, in a coach with one horse, in about an hour. An Eilwagen goes to Frankfort three times a day. There are others daily to Coblenz, Darmstadt, iMan- heim, Saarbruck, Metz, and Paris. Steam-boats go from IMaj'enco twice a day to Coblenz and Cologne, daily to Manheim during summer, and five times a week to Strasburg. The steamer up the Rhine is not to be recommended, on account of its slowness in ascending, as it takes more than two days to reach Strasburg Moreover, the scenery of the river banks from Mayence to Basle is to- tally uninteresting ; the high road through Worms and Manheim ( Route CII. ) or that by Darmstadt and the Bergstrasse (Route CV. ) are there- fore preferable. Travellers usually visit the Free Town of Frankfort (Route XCIX.) before proceeding up the Rhine. ROUTE XXXIX. THE AHR VALLEY. EOKN TO AHRWEILER AND ADENAU. The most interesting points in the valley of the Ahr, esteemed by many as equal to the scenery of the IViine, may be seen in one day and a half from Bonn, by setting out early ; but it would be better to devote two days to the excursion. Those who travel in their own carriage siiould " leave Bonn early in the morning, change horses at Remagen, and breakfast at Ahrweiler, get fresh horses there, and, securing beds, go up as far as Alte- nahr: tlie best part of the scenery is seen before the new road begins. Return to sleep at Ahrweiler." — L. H. " The road as far as Adenau is very good, and may be traversed in a private carriage ; but it is necessary to ford the stream several times be- tween Ahrweiler and Adenau. A carriage may be engaged for tlie excursion at Remagen, Godesberg, Bonn, or Coblenz. A one-horse carriage may be hired at Ahrweiler, to go to Altenahr or Adenau, for three dollars ; but no other vehicle but a char-a-banc, without springs, can be procured at Altenahr." — P. The pe- destrian may find a direct road over the hills from Bonn to Altenahr. by the Kreutzberg, Ippendorf, Riittgen, and Meckenheim ; those who travel in a carriage will follow the road on the (1. ) bank of the Rhine, as far as 2\ Remagen, (p. 240.) Between Remagen and Sinzig the Ahr enters the Rhine, and a car- riage road ascends the valley from Remagen, along the (1. ) bank of the stream, passing under the ba- salt-capped hill of Landskron. The ruined walls on its summit are those of a castle built 1 205 by the emperor Philip, from which he sent forth his soldiers, during the wars of Guelph and Ghibelline, to attack the arch- bishop of Cologne. Near the top is a chapel, partly built over a cave lined with basaltic columns. There is a good view from this hill of the winding of the Ahr. " The botanist will find the rare lizard-orchis grow- ing upon the Landskron." Close by the road side, at Heppingen, there is a mineral spring, where the traveller who has not visited Neider- Selters may witness the whole process of proving, filling, corking, and tying down the bottles so humorously de- scribed by the author of the " Bub- bles."— P. 2. Ahriceiler, (l\\v\% • Kreutzbergs is the best ; Kaiserlicher Hof, good,) a town of 2500 inhabitants, whose chief occupation and wealth are de- rived from their vineyards, which cover the slopes of the valley. 'I'he situation of the town is jn-etty ; it is still surrounded by walls, and is ap- proached by four gates. The church Rhenish Prussia. route XXXIX. — the ahr valley. 269 to the same point. A tunnel has heen cut through the rock to allow the passage of the road ; it is 432 feet long, 16 high, and 20 broad, and was completed in 1834. Altenahr (Inns: Ulrich's Inn, near the hridge, and Caspari's, arc good and clean) is a village of 400 inhabi- tants, whose prosperity is likely to be much promoted by the new roail formed to connect the Eifel with the Rhine. In order to enjoy the full beauty of the scenery, it is necessary to ascend to the ruined castle of Are, above the town ; the view will richly reward the trouble of the ascent. The white cross behind the castle is another good point of view ; a path leads down from it to the Ahr. The traveller should then ascend the hill on the W. side of the valley, beyond the bridge of Altenahr, in order to com- mand a full prospect of the winding course of the Ahr, the path however is steep. Above Altenahr the valley loses much of its beauty, but some of the points are still very picturesque. The pedestrian may cross the hills from tiie vale of the .\hr to the abbey of Laach (Route XL.) in which case he should return to the Rhine through the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought not to be missed. " The new carriage road from Alten- ahr up the valley to Treves, proceeds by way of Altenberg, situated un- der a singular isolated rock, formerly crowned by a castle of the lords of the Are. The chateau of Creuzberg, with the village of the same name, presents a striking point of view, and the church of Pvitzfeld, perched up in the rocks, with a singularly high stee- ple, is also very pictures((ue. The road continues through Briick and Honningen to Diimpelfeld, where the Adenau falls into the Ahr, and the tra- veller, proceeding to Treves, quits that river. Beyond this there is little of in- terest, except the distant view of the castle of Xurberg, towering on the peak of one of the highest mountains." — P. N 3 a beautiful Gothic edifice, with a tre- ble choir, was erected between 1 245 and 1274. The town was burnt by the soldiers of Turenne,I646, and suffered again from the I'rench in 1688. The picturesque Calvarienberr/, on the op- posite side of the Ahr, is crowned with a Franciscan convent, which was sold in 1802, but is to be con- verted into a nunnery. Ahrwciler is the centre of the wine trade of the valley : the average annual produce is 1 9,000 ohms. At Walporzheim, the first village traversed by the road after leaving Ahrwciler, the Burgundy grape is cul- tivated, and produces a strong red wine, which is highly prized. Here begins tiie wild and beautiful scenery which has obtained for the valley the name of " Kleine Schweitz." At Marienthal, to the right of the road, are the ruins of a convent. A foot- path leads over the hills from behind the village of Dernau to Altenahr ; " but the carriage road is over a stone bridge, leaving on the left the pictu- resque village of Reel). The river must next be crossed by a ford under a rock crowned by the ruined castle of Saftenburg, to IMayschoss and Loch- miihle. , Here is the principal fishery of R'umpchen (minnows) which are taken in baskets (like eel pouts) placed in weirs or dams of the river. They should not exceed an inch in length, and having been cooked in vinegar and ■water, are packed in baskets made of willow bark, which imparts to them the bitter flavour for which they are so much esteemed. The Ahr is also celebrated for its craw-fish and trout, which however are taken chiefly in its tributary streams. At Lochmiihle the road passes through an opening in the rocks by Reincrzhofen to Al- tenahr." Before reaching Altenahr, a lofty and precipitous rock, crowned by the castle of Are, seems to deny all passage up the valley ; the river sweeps rounds its base, and forms so complete a curve, that after a course of a mile and a half, it almost returns 270 ROUTE XL. — THE LOWER EIFEL. Sect. IV. 3^ Adcnau, A small town of 1200 inhabitants, situated on one of tlie tributaries of the Ahr, under the mountain called Hohe Acht, 2434 feet above the sea. Adenau itself contains nothing worth notice ; but not far distant are the ruins of the castle of Niirhiirff, the finest and most extensive feudal strong-hold in the Eifel. From hence the traveller may proceed to the town of 3Iayen (p. 271.) passing another old castle, Virnebiirg, whose lords in ancient days, besides other possessions, were the proprietors of twenty-three villages. ROUTE XL. THE LOWER EIFEL. BOKN TO THE LAKE OF LAACH, JIAYEN, AND LUTZERATH. The post-road along the (1.) bank of the Rhine, is followed as far as Brohl, by 2\ Remagen, described at p. 240. 2 Brohl. At Brohl there is a good inn, where a basket stored with eatables should be provided, as nothing of the kind is to be had at the abbey of Laach. A cross-road, but very well calculated for light carriages, ascends the beautiful valley of Brohl, passing in succession the Trass mills and quarries, the castle of Schweppen- burg, once belonging to the counts of Metternich, beneath which are many spacious halls and cavernous cham- bers hollowed out of the rocks, and the spring of Tonestein, whose agreeable effervescing waters resemble those of Selters. Near the spring stood an ancient Carmelite convent, almost concealed beneath cliffs of tuffstone and slate ; it was demolished, and the materials sold for their value in 1829. Numerous jets of carbonic gas issue out of the rocks in this neighbourliood, some of which have been ingeniously collected by the owner of a chemical manufactory, and are employed in his works. The scenery of the pretty winding valley is very pleasing as far as IVassenach, a small village with a humble /««, lying at the foot of the hills, whose interior includes the lake of Laacli. A continued ascent of about three miles from the village leads to the margin of the Laacher See, a most singular lake, of a nearly circular form, occupying the crater of an extinct volcano, and nearly resem- bling the crater lake of Bolsena, in Italy. It lies 666 feet above the Rliinc, is about 1| mile long, and li broad. The depth is very great, increasing towards the centre, where a plumb- line sinks to 214 feet. Schreiber states that the lake is fed l)y .SOOO springs, but this is probably an exaggeration. There is a popular notion, similar to that attached to the lake Avernus, in Italy, that no bird can fly over the Laacher See, in con- sequence of the poisonous vapours arising from it. This belief, though not strictly correct, is not without foundation, as extensive exhalations of noxious gas rise in streams or jets from the border of the lake, and re- main the only existing symptoms of the volcanic action once so powerful in this district. They are highly destructive to ani- mal life, and bodies of birds, squir- rels, bats, toads, &c. have been found in a pit on the margin of the lake, killed by the noxious vapours, which resemble those of the Grotto Del Cane, in Italy. It has been calcu- lated, that 600,000 lbs. of carbonic acid gas are evolved daily froin the borders of the lake. The Laacher Sec has no natural outlet ; but the superfluous waters are carried off through a subterraneous canal or emissary, nearly a mile long, cut by the monks of the abbey in the 12th century, after an inundation which threatened to overwhelm the abbey. The appearance of the deep blue lake, hemmed in on all sides by a Prussia. R. XL.— -laach. r. XLI. — coblenz to Treves. 271 ridge of hills, in part covered with luxuriant wood down to the water's edge, in part displaying their vol- canic texture and composition in the naked and forbidding rocks of scoria-, tufa, and lava, wliicli compose their sides, is excccedingly imposing as well as singular. At the opposite extre- mity, in a quiet secluded nook, shut out as it were from tlie whole world, lies the deserted Abbey of Laach, a picturesque object, with its six towers. It was originally a Benedictine Con- vent, but its revenue having been sequestrated at the time of the French Revolution, It was sold a few years ago to the highest bidder, and is now converted into a farm ; while its splendid and once hospitable halls are degraded into cow-stalls. The church, however, containing several old family monuments, has been pur- chased by the Prussian Government, and has thus been preserved from a state of like dilapidation. It is per- haps the most perfect and complete cxainple known of an edifice in the round-arched Gothic style. It was built between 1093 and 1156. Like the cathedrals of Worms, Spire, and Mayence, it has two choirs and two transepts, but all on a miniature scale. The tomb of the founder Pfalzgraf Henry II. is preserved within the church ; his effigy in wood has been removed to Schloss Burresheim. From Kloster Laach the traveller should visit the great millstone quar- ries of Nieder Mendig, two miles south-east of the abbey. The lava rock has here been hollowed out into spacious subterraneous caverns, which deserve by all means to be explored. The small additional expense of torches to light them up will be well repaid. From ^Nlendig the traveller may, if he choose, return to the banks of the Ilhine, by a bad road to Andernach, eight miles long. Tliere are, how- ever, many other objects of interest, both for the lover of the picturesque and for the geologist in this district. About two miles south-west of Laach are the cave-like excavations of Bell, whence oven-stone (pierre au four) is obtained. A tolerable road leads from Men- dig to May en, along the banks of the Nette, passing the interesting and well-preserved castle of Burresheim, under the Iloch Simmen, a volcanic mountain. There are many other fine old ruined castles in the Eifel, as Virneberg, Olbruck, a noble ancient fortress, its donjon measures 45 feet by 30 at its base, and it has a tower 170 feet high. Werners Eck is another remarkable castle. Mayen is a picturesque and ancient town, with a castle, surrounded by walls and gardens. There are many millstone quarries near it. From Mayen, the traveller has the choice of tlie following routes : 1 . By Polch to Munster-Mayfeld, Schloss Elz, Treis, and Garden, where he will find himself in the most beautiful spot on the Moselle, and may ascend that river to Treves, or descend to Coblenz. 2. The high post-road to Treves and Coblenz, (Route XLI.). 3. If he take an interest in geology, he may proceed by a rough cross- road to the mountain called " Hohe Acht," near Kalcborn, 2200 feet above the sea, commanding from its summit a most extensive view. He will find a road leading thence to Liitzerath and Bertrich (p. 272.) and to the Upper Eifel (p. 288.) ROUTE XLL COBLENZ TO TREVES. 15i Pruss. Miles = 71 Eng. Miles. A Schnellpost runs daily, either way, in 14 hours. The road is very hilly, and the country (except the neighbourhood of Liitzerath) is not very picturesque ; though within a short distance of the road, between it and the Moselle, there are some charming scenes. As there is no post-road along the banks of the INIoscUe, the best way for those wlio N 4< 272 ROUTE XLI THE BATHS OF BERTRICH. Scct. IV. travel in their own carriage to ex- plore it, will be, to proceed by this post-road to Treves, turning aside at one or two places which will be pointed out, to visit scenes of interest, and then to descend the IMoselle from Treves, l)y a private boat or the pub- lic barge, (p. 278.) Upon the first stage from Coblenz to Treves, lie many unimportant vil- lages ; the first of them, Metternich, gives its name to a family now known all over Europe. Twice a week the Schnellpost, instead of passing through Polch, makes a slight detour by the little town of Mayen, 3^ G. miles, (p. 271.) to Liitzerath, 11 miles. 3'f Polch. The small town of Munster-May- feld lies on the left of the road, about five miles off, in a beautiful situation. By some it is said to have been the birth-place of Caligula (?) The church of St. Martin is a handsome Gothic building, standing on a Roman found- ation ; it contains one or two curious monuments and old paintings. About three miles distant, in the midst of one of the most picturesque of all tlie tributary valleys of the Moselle, stands the very interesting old castle of Elz, described in route XLII. The castle is between two and three miles distant from the Moselle. About two miles higher up the valley is another castle, Pi/rmont, the seat of Count Bassen- heim, burnt by the Swedes in 1641 ; near it is a cascade. The traveller coming /ro»i Treves, and wishing to explore the Lower Eifel, (Route XL.) would turn off to the left at Kehrig, towards Maycn, instead of proceeding at once to Coblenz. 2\ Kaisersesch. 2^ Liitzerath, Inn : the Post not good. This is the best starting-point for an excursion to the volcanoes of the Upper Eifel (p. 288.) An excellent new road leads from LiitzeratJi to Alf, on the Moselle, about 10 miles, ])assing the Baths of Bertrich nearly lialf-way. 'I'hey lie in the depths of the narrow valley of the Ues, or Issbach, distinguished for its sinnuosities, which present a succession of scenes varying every few j'ards, and for the umbrageous foliage of the M'oods, which clothe its sides from top to bottom. Just before the road descends into the valley, it passes near a conical hill called the Volcano, probably a volcanic crater, from which a stream of basalt, occupying the lower part of the valley above the slate rocks which form its sides, may have issued, though the lava current has not been absolutely traced to this source. A mile farther, at the junc- tion of a small rivulet with the Iss, another basaltic current enters the valley. It appears to have been cut through by the stream, wliich, falling in a small cascade, has laid open a singular small grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of which consist of small basaltic columns, worn away at the joints, so as to resemble cheeses. This has obtained for the cave its common name of cheese-cellar. (Kasekeller.) The Baths of Bertrich consist of an assemblage of inns and boarding- houses, (among which Werlings, Inn : the Kurhaus, is very good, and a house lately built,) in a romantic and retired spot, shut in by hills, and almost ca- nopied by woods, intersected by agree- able walks. The waters are warm (90" Far.) and sulphureous. The sea- son lasts till August, but Bertrich is a quiet rather than fashionable water- ing-place, and its accommodations are homely compared with Baden or Wiesbaden. It is well situated as head- quarters for travellers intending to explore the Moselle. The passage boat from Coblenz to Treves touches at Alf, a small village at the junction of the Issbach and Moselle, 5 miles below the Baths. The junction of the clay-slate and lava is very dis- tinctly seen in the bed of the rivulet. The traveller coming from Treves to Hertrich should turn out of the high road at Wittlich, eight miles distant from the baths. Rhenish Prussia. route XLI. — treves. 273 It takes nine hours to travel from Liitzerath to Treves. About two miles out of Liitzerath, the road crosses what is called the Liitzerather Kehr (from /ahren, to turn) a valley whose windings and contortions are perhaps unparalleled. Every projection on the one side of it corresponds with a bay or recess on the other, so that the stream of the Ues or Iss-bach, which flows through it, driven from one side to the other by these advancing and retreating buttresses, is seen at one time in 7 different bends or turns, taking at every bend which it makes an ex- actly opposite direction to that in which it had previously flowed. It is altogether a singular scene. 2^ Wittlich, Inn, post : a small town of 2200 inhabitants. 2 Hetzerath. Beyond Schweich, the Moselle is crossed by a feriy, and the road pro- ceeds by the (rt.) bank, all the way to Treves, passing, near the entrance of the town, the celebrated Porta Nigra, or Black Gate. 2^ Trevfs (German, Trier.) Inns : Trierische Hof ; — Das Rothe Haus (the red house;) — Luxemburger Hof. This very ancient city stands on the (rt. ) bank of the Jloselle, in a valley of exuberant richness, sur- rounded by low, vine-clad hills ; it has 14,000 inhabitants. An inscrip- tion on the wall of the Kothe Haus (formerly the Town-hall) asserts that Treves was built before Rome. " Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis MCCC." Without giving credit to this, it may fairly be considered the oldest city in Germany. Julius Ca;sar, when he first led the Roman armies into this part of Europe, found Treves (b.c. 58) the flourishing capital of a powerful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of the Romans, rendered them great assistance in con(iuering the neighbouring tribes. The En)peror Augustus established here a Roman colony, under the name of Augusta Trevirorum, and bestowed on it the privileges of having a senate and magistrates of its own. It became the capital of First Bclgic Gaul (which, it must be remembered, com- prised not only Gaul properly so called, but the whole of Spain and Britain) ; and at later times it was the residence of the emperors, Con- stantius, Constantine the Great, Ju. Han, Valentinian, Valens, Gratian, and Theodosius, and became so emi- nent in commerce, manufactures, wealth, and extent, and withal so far advanced in learning and the arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived here, calls it the second metropolis of the empire. Although almost annihilated during the invasion of the Goths, Huns, and ^'andals, it arose to a height of splendour nearly equalling its former state, under the rule of the Archbishops of Treves, who were Princes, Arch-chancellors, and Electors of the empire. Many of them seem to have aimed more at temporal than spiritual sway. They maintained large armies, which, after the fashion of the times, they did not scruple to lead in person, clad in ar- mour. The ambition and talents of many of these episcopal rulers in- creased their dominions so much, as to obtain for them considerable poli- tical influence in Germany. Treves was taken by the English under INIarlborough in the War of the Suc- cession, 1 702-4 ; and, at the French Revolution, suffered the usual for- tune of having its churches and con- vents stripped of their wealth, and the buildings turned into stables or warehouses. Before that event, Treves boasted of possessing more ecclesiastical buildings than any other city of the same size. Treves is at present a decayed town, owing the chief interest it pos- sesses for the traveller, to the Human remains still existing in and about it. Xo other city of Germany or north- ern Europe possesses such extensive relics of the masters of the world. X 5 27i ROUTE XLI. — TREVES. Sect. IV. They arc not, it is true, in the best style of art, and are remarkable rather for vastness than beauty ; and in this respect bear no comparison with the Roman remains in tlie south of France or in Italy. Indeed those who expect to find on the banks of the Moselle anything which will bear coinparison with them will cer- tainly be disappointed. They have likewise suffered severely, not only from the Vandalism of the Vandals themselves, but from the prejudices of earlj' Christians, who believed they were doing good service to their reli- gion by effacing all traces of Pagan- ism from the earth. Many of the buildings have been demolished, to furnish materials for modern con- structions, In the market-place stands a jyillar of granite, surmounted by a cross, raised to commemorate the appear- ance of a fiery cross in the sky, seen, according to an obscure tradition, in 958. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen is an irregular building, in the very earliest Gothic (Byzantine) style, with round arches. The semi- circular terminations both of the east and west ends are full of Roman bricks, and have been supposed to be of Roman construction. Indeed the whole is believed to have formed part of the Basilica, or palace of the empress Helena, mother of Constan- tine the Great, who converted her residence into a church, and depo- sited in it our Saviour's coat without seams. The existence of this relic, at present, is rather doul)tful, at least, it is not visible ; the attendants of the church say it is walled up. The ori- ginal building of Helena is supposed to have consisted of nine arches, sup- ported in the centre by four colossal pillars of granite : three of these arc believed still to exist in their place ; indeed, their Corinthian capitals are visible in the interior of the church. The fourth gave way, and to prevent the total destruction of the building. its place was sui)plied by a square pier of masonry, and the others were walled up by I3isliop Popjjo, whe re- paired the church in the 1 1th century. This fractured column lies at present on the outside of the church ; it is 7 feet in diameter ; it must have been brought from a distance, — perhaps from the Odenwald. The two crypts under each end of the church are per- fect and interesting, while all above is altered and debased. Within the church are numerous monuments of electors of Treves, including that of the warlike prelate Richard von Greifenklau, who defended the city in person against Franz of Sickingen. The carving of the marble pulpit is good, as far as the mutilations caused by the French, leave the means of judging. The seats of the choir are singularly inlaid with ivory and wooden mosaic (Marquetterie)." The cloisters date from a very early pe- riod. Adjoining the cathedral, and con- nected with it, stands the far more graceful Church of Our Lady, {Lieb- frnuenhirche) built in the most ele- gant pointed style, between 1227 and 1243, and originally intended to supply the want of a Lady Chapel. The semicircular portal is richly ornamented with sculpture, and the interior, in tlie shape of a Greek cross, is supported by twelve pillars, each bearing the picture of an apostle. A little black stone in the pavement near the door, is the only spot whence all these can be seen at once. The Palace of the Electors and Bishops, a very handsome and exten- sive building, is now turned into a barrack. It stands partly upon the site of an enormous Roman edifice, a fragment of which only now re- mains ; the larger portion having been demolished in comparatively recent times, to make way for the ejiiscopal edifice erected in 1614. Tlie colossal fragment still existing has l)een included in the jialace, and goe^, with the vulgar, by the name Rhenish Prussia, route XLI. — Treves. 275 of the Heathens' Tower (Heideii' thurm) : with the Valets de Place, it has longed pa-ssed for the Pnlace of Constantine ; but the learned, who are always on the search for novelty, never allowing any one theory to remain in possession of any object of anti(juity more than a quarter of a century, and who have confused everything and settled nothing about Treves, are in doubt whether to call it a palace of Constantine, a theatre, or a portion of the Therma\ Be this as it may, the gigantic proportions of this Roman edifice, whose walls are more than 90 feet high, and 10 feet thick, give a very good idea of the va-st dimensions of the whole when entire. It is at the same time a master piece of architecture ; as the bricks and tiles, of which it is wholly composed, remain to this day per- fectly smooth on the surface, solid, and compact, and the walls, after the lapse of ages, are without a crack or seam. Additional interest attaches to these old walls, if we consider them as the favourite residence of Constan- tine, and that out of them issued the decrees which governed at the same time Home and Britain. In front of this building extends an open space of ground, now used for drilling troops : at its fiirther ex- tremity stand the shattered remains of the Baths, Therma; (^Bader-Pal- last). Until within a few years, they were included in the fortifications of the town, and were half buried in the earth ; so that the windows on the first story being on a level with the ground, served as an entrance into the town, and were barbarously broken away at the sides, in order to admit the market carts of the pea- santry : from this the building got the name of tlie White Gate. Under the direction of the Prussian govern- ment, it has been laid bare to the foundation. Vaidted rooms, reser- voirs, remains of a hypocaust, earthen pipes, and channels for the passage of water, hot as well as cold, have been brought to light, and fully ex- plain the original destination of the building. The massiveness of the well-turned arches, and the thickness of the walls, will excite admiration at the skill of the builders who raised them, and surprise at the violence which has reduced them to so utter a state of dilapidation. About a (juarter of a mile from the baths, outside the walls, on the road to Olewig, is the Roman Amphitheatre. It comes unexpectedly into sight, be- ing scooped out of the side of a hill covered with vineyards, which, but a few years ago, extended over the arena itself. The king of Prussia having purchased the ground, has been enabled to clear away the earth which covered it to the depth of 20 feet. It is interesting in an historical as well as an antiquarian point of view, as it was upon this spot that Constantine entertained his subjects with an exhibition, which he called Prankish sports (Ludi Francici) and which consisted in exposing many thousand unarmed Prankish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. He twice repeated these diversions (a. D. 306 and 313) and the fawning chroniclers of the time have not scru- pled to call it a magnificent sight, " magnificum spectaculum, faniosa supplicia." So great was the number of victims, that the savage beasts stopped short in their work of de- struction, and left many alive, fa- tigued with slaughtering. Those who survived were made to fight as gla- diators against one another ; but they are said to have spoiled the amuse- ment of the hard-hearted spectators, by voluntarily falling on each other's, swords, instead of contending for life. The arena itself, excavated out of the solid rock, and carefully levelled, is 234 feet long and 155 broad: deep channels for water run round and through the centre : tiiey were sup- plied by an aqueduct from the stream of the lluwer. Horns, tusks, and bones of various wild animals have N 6 276 ROUTE XLI. — TREVES. Seet. IV. been discovered in digging, and one or two cave-like vaults in the side walls were, it is supposed, the dens in which they were confined previ- ously to exhibition. This Amphi- theatre, capable of holding about 6000 persons, was of humble pretensions in comparison with those of Nismes, Verona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of being surrounded by several ranges of vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping banks of earth, thrown up in excavating the arena, served to sup- port the seats for the spectators ; all traces of which have disappeared. The stones were probably used for building houses, as the amphitheatre ■was long regarded no otherwise than as a quarry. Archways of solid ma- sonry flanked by towers (no part of which now remain) formed the main entrances to the arena at the north and south-east extremity; in addition to which, two vaulted passages (Vo- mitoria) bored through the hill, led into the arena from the side of Treves, and still remain in tolerable pi-eservation. One of them has been converted into a cellar, and contains the wine which grows immediately over it. It is commonly called the Kays Keller ( Csesar's cellar) because it is supposed to have led to the Ro- man Emperor's private box. The other is not yet cleared out. The Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water to Treves from the Ruwer, still exists in those places where it passed under- ground ; it was 3 or 4 feet broad, and nearly 6 feet high. The part which was supported upon pillars across the valleys has entirely disap- peared. There were anciently four Abbeys at Treves, celebrated for their riches and extent all over Germany ; but of their wealth nothing now remains, and even the original edifices de- stroyed by fires and violence are re- placed by modern structures. They are, — St. Matthias, about a mile above the town, now converted into a school. The church (partly ancient) is annually visited by many thousand pilgrims. St. Maximin, at one time per- haps the richestBenedictinemonasteiy in Germany, is now used as a Ijarrack. It occupies the site of a palace of Con- stantine, but possesses no other inte- rest. St. Martin's on the IMoselle is a china manufactory. St. Mary of the Four Martyrs, below the town, stands where the residence of the Ro- man Prefect stood, and where four soldiers of the Theban Legion suffered martyrdom, according to the tradition. It is now an artillery depot. The Black Gate, Porta Nigra (Schwartzes Thor) called also Porta Martis, is the most interesting monu- ment of antiquitj' in Treves ; though its architecture, it must be confessed, is heavy, and its proportions ungrace- ful. Neither its age nor use have been satisfactorily ascertained, but it is reputed (with much probability) to have been built in the days of Con- stantine the Great, between 314 and 322. It was evidently designed as an ornamental rather than a defen- sive structure. The double gateway, and the numerous windows so near the ground, could not contribute either to resist or annoy an enemy. It is more likely to have been an arch of triumph. Tliough now at one end of the town, it is supposed to have stood originally in a central situation. Some have fixed the date of the building prior to the arrival of the Romans, and have called it the Fo- rum, Capitol, or Council-house, of the Belga." ; but the style of architec- ture favours the belief that it was a work of the Lower Empire. In one of the early ages of the Christian asra, a holy anchorite named Simeon, of Syracuse, who had been a monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, on his return from the Holy I^and, posted himself on the top of the build- ing, in imitation of his namesake Si- meon the Stelite. His ascetic and ec- centric life gained for him the reputa- tion of sanctity ; and in consequence he Rhenish Prussia. route XLI. — Treves. 277 was enrolled in the calendar. The building was consecrated and dedi- cated to St. Simeon by Archbishop Poppo, in the eleventh century. To fit it for the service of religion, he added a semicircular apsis to one end, which still remains a curious specimen of early christian architec- ture, and formed three churches in it, one above the other, in which service was regularly performed down to the beginning of the present century. Like most ancient structures the lower part of it, as far as the tops of the gateways, had been buried in process of time beneath earth and rubbish, so that the entrance to it was by a long flight of steps leading to the first floor. In this state Napoleon found it on his arrival at Treves. It is insinuated, that a want of ammu- nition, as much as a taste for art, induced him to free the buihling from its incumbrances, as he went no further than tearing off" the thick lead from the roof, which he melted into bullets. The work of improve- ment has been carried into effect by the Prussian government; the build- ing has been divested of its ecclesi- astical character, and restored, as far as possible, to its original con- dition, the earth having been cleared from its base. It exhibits va- rious marks of the dilapidations of barbarous ages and people. The masonry, of vast blocks of sandstone, rough on the outside, was originally so neatly fitted together, without the aid of cement, that the joints of the stones could scarcely be discerned ; but they have been chipped and muti- lated at their angles, in order to ex- tract the metal clamps which united them, and now seem to hang together by their comers. The interior serves to hold a few shattered fragments of antiquity, of no great interest, dug up in the neighbourhood : the most cu- rious pieces are, a bas-relief of gladia- tors found in the amphitheatre, a mermaid with two tails, several earth- enware pipes from the baths, and two Roman mile stones from Bitburg. Besides the Roman remains al- ready enumerated, there is within the town (in the Dieterichs Strasse, not far from the Rothe Haus,) a Tower ox Propugnaculum, in an excel- lent state of presenation. The Bridge over the Moselle is most probably the oldest Roman monu- ment in Treves, and founded in the time of Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, and the date of its con- struction has been fixed by a learned antiquarian about 28 years b. c. It originally stood near the middle of the town, which has gradually dwin- dled away till it has left it at one extremity. Having resisted the storms of barbaric invasion, and the wild times of the middle ages, it was blown up by the French during the wars of Louis XIV. In consequence, the only ancient parts remaining are the piers of large stones brought from the lava quarries at 31endig, near the lake of Laach ; many single blocks are from 6 to 9 feet long, 3 broad, and 3 thick. In the Gymnasiums Gebaude (for- merly a University, now removed,) is the town Lihrari/ of 94,000 vols., con- taining many literary curiosities, the chief of them being the famous Codex Aureus, a MS. of the four gospels written in golden letters, formerly in the abbey of St. Maximin, to which it was given by Ada, sister of Charle- magne. It is bound in plates of silver gilt, on which are embossed figures in high relief, interspersed with precious stones ; and in the centre is a splendid cameo, said to represent Augustus and his family. There is also here Archbishop Eg- bert's copy of the gospels, as well as other 31 SS., and many printed books of great value ; among them Gutem- bergs first Bible. (D. T.) There is also a large collection of ancient coins and medals, and Roman remains, principally found at Treves. 278 ROUTE XLII. — THE MOSELLE. Sect. rv. The environs abound in delightful points of excursion, fine views, Ac. Pallien, a village on the left bank of the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine up which the road to Aix-la-Chapelle is carried, is worth visiting on ac- count of the picturesque character of the rocky dell, of the water-mills en- closed between its clifts, and of its tall bold bridge of a single arch thrown over the ravine, and founded in the rock ; it was built by Napo- leon. On the summit of the height above Pal lien stands a pretty villa, called the White House; it commands a good general view of the valley of the Moselle, and of the town of Treves. Igel, a small village, with an inn, about sis miles from Treves, on the high road to Luxemburg, and upon the ancient Roman highway, is par- ticularly deserving of a visit from all who take an interest in remains of antiquity, on account of the Igel Sauk (monument of Igel), a Roman structure, standing in the midst of it, close to the road. It is a four- sided pillar of sandstone, more than 70 feet high, bearing carvings, in- scriptions, and bas-reliefs, but in so mutilated a condition, that neither its age nor destination hare vet been precisely ascertained. Four or five different explanations have been given of it, and at least as many readings of the inscriptions by the antiquaries. One states it to have been raised to commemorate the marriage of Con- stantine and Helena ; another, that it records the birth of Caligula, trac- ing some resemblance between his name and that of the place, Igel. A third considers it to allude to the apotheosis of some person of impe- rial rank. The plain matter of fact seems to be this, that it was set up by two brothers named Secundinus ; partly as a funeral monument to their deceased relatives ; partly to celebrate their sister's marriage, which is re- presented on one of the bas-reliefs by the figures of a man and woman join- ing hands. The Secimdini were a rich and powerful family, who, it ap- pears from the inscription, in addition to other oflSces, held those of post- master and chief of the commissariat, and supplied the Roman army with food, accoutrements, and carriages, which is further denoted by the figure of a chariot, filled with armour, &c., the subject of another bas-relief. From the style of the architecture and carvings, the monument has been referred to the time of the Antonines : some imagine it to belong to the era of Constantine. Malte Brun says, " the end of the 4th century." Schnellposts go daily from Treves to Coblenz in 14 hours, Luxemburg in 6 hours, Metz in 15, four times a- week to Bingen ( Route XLV. ) ; and daily to Aix-la-Chapelle in 19 hours, (Route XLII.). Very comfortable public barges (Eiljachten) descend the 3Ioselle twice a week to Coblenz. ROUTE XLIL THE MOSELLE. FROM TREVES TO COBLEKZ. Beckers' " Map of the Course of the Moselle" may be recommended as useful. The beauties of the Moselle ( Germ. Mosel) have recently been rendered familiar to English eyes by the ad- mirable drawings of Stanjield and Harding. The editor of the Hand- book, having visited this riv«r several times, confidently recommends the voyage down it from Treves to Co- blenz, in settled summer weather, and when the wind is not high. Travellers visiting the Rhine have hitherto been content to go and return by Cologne, thus retracing their steps over ground they have seen before. The route by the Moselle is equally accessible; by by taking it, they will add variety to to their journey, and make a better use of their time. Public barges (called Eiljachten) neatly fitted up, make the voyage, Rhenish Prussia, route XLII. — the moselle. 279 both up and down the river, twice a week, setting out from Treves Sun- day and Thursday ; from Coblenz Sunday and Wednesday ; starting at 4 from Treves, at 5 from Coblenz. A place in the best cabin costs only 3 dollars; the hourof startingisfourA.M. A priiute boat with two rowers, ca- pable of holding a carriage, may be hired at Treves for about 20 or 24 dollars, with 3 rowers, for 2j days, 28 dollars; with 4 rowers, for 3^ days, 32 dollars ; the carriage may be taken off its wheels to lie compactly and pre- sent little resistance to the wind. The boats are of rough unpainted wood ; they are provided with an awning and cushions, and should be lined with straw to keep the feet warm. The abovenamed sums include trinkgeld to the boatmen, who undertake to embark a carriage at Treves, but not to unship it at Coblenz. The Schiffer Phillip Naigel, at Treves, deser\es to be particularly recommended for his civility, good conduct, aud knowledge of the river. A smaller boat for pas- sengers only, with two rowers, {two are absolutely necessary,) will not cost more than 12 or 14 dollars. A well- stocked basket of provisions should be taken on board. The descent, in- cluding stoppages to go ashore and visit the most remarkable spots, will take up two days and a half, or three days. The shortest time in which the voyage can be performed is two days. Windy weather is very unfavourable to such an excursion, as it will often retard the boat 3 or 4 hours each day. The traveller should start by six in the morning at the latest. Owing to the windings of the river between Treves and Coblenz, the distance is twice as great by water as by land. The Eiljacht takes three days to as- cend, stopping the Jirst night at Sen- lials, the second at Berncastel, reach- ing Treves on the third. The descent is made in two days; first halt at Zell. The pedestrian may adopt a still better plan for making the ex- cursion of the Moselle than that of hiring a boat for the whole voyage. He may reach by bye-paths and cross- roads, not passable for carriages, the finest points of view; atone time creep- ing along the margin of the river, at another surveying it from the heights. In every village he will find a boat in which he may embark when tired, and may thus shift about from one side of the river to the other. The Moselle is particularly remarkable for its very complicated windings, which in se- veral parts of its course form project- ing promontories, almost isolated by the river. The pedestrian, by cross- ing these narrow necks of land, may often save 6 or 8 miles, and reach, in half an hour, a spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 to arrive at. In mak- ing these short cuts, however, he may sometimes miss some of the finest scenes on the river. The Inns upon the Moselle are, with few exceptions, very indifferent, and will by no means satisfy fastidious travellers. That at Zeltingen is the best, and furnishes very tolerable quar- ters for the first night of the voyage: it may be reached in ID or 12 hours from Treves. The usual charges at the inns be- tween Treves and Coblenz, seen and confirmed annually by the magistrates, are, for dinner 15 S.gr., tea or coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine from 5 S.gr. to 1 Th., abed 8 to 15 S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. The banks of the Moselle, though on the whole inferior in beauty to those of the Rhine, by no means pre- sent a repetition of the same kind of scenery. It is generally of a less wild and barren character ; instead of black bare ravines and abrupt pre- cipices, it is bordered by round and undulating hills, covered not merely with vines, but often clotlied in rich woods, such as the Rhine cannot boast of. It is much enlivened with pic- turesque towns and villages, of which there are more than 100 between Co- blenz and Treves, while ruins of old 280 ROUTE XLII. — THE MOSELLE. Sect. IV. castles, watch-towers, and Gothic church-steeples are not wanting to give a religious or romantic tone to the land- scape. Some of the side valleys, too, which merge into the JMoselle, are in the highest degree picturesque ; and the view of the extraordinary wind- ings of the river, from the heights above it, are as singular as they are enchanting. The Moselle is not de- ficient in classical associations : it is even the subject of a poem by Au- sonius, written probaby during his residence at Treves ; and traces of the Romans may be discovered in almost every village along its banks, if not above ground, at least wherever the soil is turned by the spade. The first part of the voyage from Treves to Berncastel presents nothing of great interest ; and it is not worth while to enumei-ate names of unim- portant villages. (1.) The tall chimneys in the re- cess of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke proceeding therefrom, proclaim the ironworks of Quindt. (r. ) Neumagen is the Roman No- viomagus, where Constantine had a palace, the " inclyta castra Constan- tini " of Ausonius, of which few frag- ments now remain. The Church was built 1190, partly with the materials of the Roman palace. (I.) Pisport (Pisonis Porta) Hain's Inn. One of the most famous vine- yards on the Moselle. (r.) Opposite Dusemond is another vineyard, producing the capital wine called Braitneheryer. (r. ) IMuhliieim. Here the scenery impro^esin beauty. (r. ) Berncastel, (Inns: Bey Nie- derelie; — tlie Post ;) — a dirty town, of 2000 inhabitants, on the way from Bin- gen to Treves, picturesquely situated under a ruined castle, perched on a ledge of the Hundsruck mountains, which here approach close to the INIo- selie. There is a ferry here. Travellers tired of sitting in a boat may find their way over the hills, with the help of a guide, from Berncastel to Trarbach, an hour's walk. The boatmen should be directed to proceed round to Trarbach. The distance by land is about three miles, by water fifteen. The inn at Trarbach is bad. Tliose who desire better accommodation should abide by the river, and halt at Zeltingen. (1.) Directly opposite Berncastel lies Cus. The Hospital was founded by Car- dinal Cusanus, who was born here, the son of a poor fisherman, and raised himself to that dignity by his talents. Attached to it is a Gothic chapel. The (r. ) bank of tlie Moselle is here draped with vineyards from top to bottom, (r. ) A little below Graach is the Priory of Martinshof, now secularized, (r.) Zeltingen: Breuning's Inn, tolerably comfortable quarters for the first day's voyage, may be reached in 10 hours from Treves ; charges moderate. The host has some capital Zeltinger wine in his cellar. This may be said to be the centre of the wine district of the Moselle, in which all the best sorts are produced. (1.) Uerzig, Below this village, in the face of a tall red clifF called Michaelsley, a castellated wall is visi- ble. It covers the mouth of a cave which once served to harbour a band of robber-knights, and afterwards to shelter a hermit. It was accessible only by means of high ladders, (r. ) Trarbach : (the derivation of the name, from " Thronus Bacchi," is probably fanciful.) Inn, die Goldene Krone, not good. The situation of this small town, of 1300 inhabitants, is very beautiful'; it lies in the mouth of a side valley, opening upon the Moselle ; but it is not otherwise in- teresting, and its narrow and dirty streets offer no temptation to penetrate within its gates. The castle above it, called Grlljinburg, was one of tlie strongest between^Treves and Coblenz, commanding entirely the passage of the Moselle. It was the family resi- dence of the noble Counts of Spon- Rhenish Pnissia. route XLII. — the moselle. 281 heim, and was built in the XlVth century, (1338); with an Archbishop's ransom. A long and deadly feud had existed between the Archbishops of Treves and the Counts of Sponlieim, TPhen, in 1325, the death of Count Henry held out to the reigning Arch- bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of en- riching himself at the expense of his vidow ; taking advantage, therefore, ofher unprotected position, he made in- roads into her domain, plundering her subjects, and laying waste her lands. The Countess Loretta, however, was gifted with a manly spirit, and was not a person to submit tamely to such insults and injury; so, calling together her vassals, she boldly expelled the in- truders with loss and disgrace, equally to the surprise and indignation of £ald»'in, who little expected such opposition from a female. The very same year, as the bishop was quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down the Moselle to Coblenz, with a small re- tinue, his barge was suddenly arrested near the foot of Castle Starkenburg, by a chain stretched across the river below the surface; and before he had time to recover from his surprise, armed boats put off from the shore, and he was led a prisoner into the Castle of the Countess. She treated her persecutor with courtesy, but kept him fast within her walls, until he agreed to abandon a fort which he had begun to build on her territory, and paid down a large ransom. The finest scenery of the Moselle lies between Trarbach and Cobem. (1.) Traben. Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, almost encircled by tlie Moselle, and converted by its windings into a promontory. On the summit of it, Vauban constructed for L/Ouis XI V. , in the time of peace, and upon German territorj*, a strong fort- ress, completelycommanding the river, up and down. The pretext for this proceedingwas the unjust claim urged by Louis to the domains of the Counts of Sponheim. After 8000 men had been employed in constructing it, and , an expenditure of many millions of I francs had been incurred, it was razed to the ground, in conformity with the treaty of Ryswick, 16 years after it was built, and a few broken walls and shattered casemates alone mark the site of Fort Montioyal, The view from it is grand. (r.) Starkenburg, a village on an eminence, which once bore a castle of the same name, belonging to the Counts of Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its outworks extended down to the water side, and some towers and walls still remain. (r. ) Enkirch, a village of 2000 in- habitants ; near it are fragments of shafts of pillars, which go by the name of the Temple, and are rperhaps Ro- man. On approaching (r.) the village of Punderich, the ruins of (1.) Ma- ricnhurg, alternately a nunnery and a fortress, appear in sight ; and from their position, on the summit of a high dorsal ridge, which the Moselle, by its windings, converts into a pro- montory, remains long in view. The distance from (1.) the village of Reil, near which a footpath strikes across the Isthmus, to Alf, is not more than 3 miles; by the winding Moselle it is a voyage of 3 hours. Travellers should on no account omit to land here : the view from the eminence a little to the W. of Marienburg, is perhaps the most surprising and pleasing that the whole course of the Moselle presents. Owing to the ex- cessive sinuosities of the river, 4 dif- ferent reaches appear in view at once, radiating as it were from the foot of the rock on which you stand. A waving amphitheatre of hills covered with dark forest occupies the horizon, and nearer at hand vineclad slopes, villages at the water side, and old castles, with the: Fort Arras on the IssbacI), to the W., are the accessories of this beautiful panorama. The eminence from which it is best seen, called Primenskupfchen, is 20 minutes' walk from Alf. 282 ROUTE XLII. THE MOSELLE. Sect. IV. (r.) Zell (Kocli's Inn) is a village of ISOO inhabitants, opposite the point of the promontory on which Marienburg stands, overlooked by a guardian watch-tower. , (1.) Alf, (Inn tolerable,) a village prettily situated at the mouth of the winding valley of the Issbach ; above it stands the church, and furtlier up the valley rises the picturesque hill- fort of Arras, which stood out for a long time in 1138, against Adalbert, Archbishop of Treves, who swore not to shave till he had taken it, and kept his word. 2 miles up the valley are the extensive iron forges and furnaces of IM. Remj', constructed according to the most improved English method. The iron is brought from Bendorf on the Rhine, the coal from the mines at Saarbruck. About 6 miles up this sylvan valley are the retired Baths of Bertrich, (p. 272); an excellent new carriage road leads to them from Alf, where vehicles may usually be pro- cured. No one should quit Alf with- out enjoying the very extraordinary prospect from the Prinzenskopfchen promontory, near the Marienljurg. Soon after leaving Alf there is a vei-y remarkable echo. (1.) Bremm, a wild and solitary spot, enclosed by huge dark hills. It is difficult to guess how the river finds its way out; indeed it has very much the appearance of the head of a lake; but they resemble somevi-hat the cliff of the Lurley in boldness. The steep slopes behind the village are covered with vines to the very top. (r. ) On the pretty green meadow opposite, stood, until the time of the French Revolution, the nunnery of Stuben ; the massive wall of a ruined chapel, pierced with pointed windows, still remains, (1. ) There is a path from the village of Ellcr over the hills to Cochem, only 4 miles long. The windings of the river between these two places cannot be less than 12 miles, but those who avail themselves of this short cut will lose some of the prettiest scenery on the river. (1.) Ediger is charmingly situated. (1.) Senhals. The barge stops at Heinrich's Inn. Little else than vines visible hereabouts. (r. ) Sen- heim at a little distance from tiie river. (r.) Beilstein. Inn execrable. Travellers should on no account think of stopping here. One of the most picturesque ruined castles on the Moselle, surmounted by a square donjon keep, overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the Electors of Treves, who deputed their noble vassals, the Metternichs and Winneburgs, to hold it for them. The small village nestles at the foot of the rock, on which it stands. (1.) Cochem. Inn: Romischer Kijnig, best, but not very good. The distant view of this ancient town of 2500 inhabitants, guarded as it were by the two picturesque castles aloft upon the hills behind, is inost romantic and attractive. But let the stranger be satisfied with admiring it at a distance, since, within, it surpasses in the filth and closeness of its streets, all other towns on the Moselle. The castle at the upper end was an Im- perial Fortress; in 1689 it held out, together with the town, for a long time against the forces of Louis XIV., but being at last, after 4 separate as- saults, taken by storm, the greater portion of the garrison, consisting of 1600 Brandenburgers, and many of the citizens, were inhumanly put to the sword, and the houses and castle burnt. This atrocious act was ordered by the French Marshal Boufflers, and executed by his subordinate officer, M. dcGrignan, the son-in-law of Ma- dame de Sevign^. The lower castle of Winneburg is lost from view as you draw near the town, being situated some way up the glen of the Endertbach. It is the most ancient family seat of the Met- ternichs ; the head of the house at present is the Austrian prime minis- ter. Prince Mcttcrnich. The large building seen above the spire of the church, near the lower Rhenish Prussia, u. XLII. — the moselle, schloss, elz. 283 end of the town of Ccchem, was originally a Capuchin convent, and is now a school. (1.) Clotten, a small village, with a church on an eminence, in the gap of a valley overlooked by a ruined cas- tle. Jlonotonous hills intervene for a considerable distance between Clot- ten and (r. ) Treis, situated within a little ampliitheatre of hills, from which, at a short distance from the river, look down two castles, one of which, Wild- burg, was won in hard fight by an Archbishop of Treves, in the twelfth century. An elegant modern church has been erected at Treis. (1.) Carden, (Spikerman's Inn, good and clean,) is a picturesque old village, in one of tlie most lovely situations on the Moselle. The Church, conspicuous with its three towers, was built in the twelfth cen- tury, in honour of St. Castor, whose body was buried here, and afterwards removed to Coblenz. The exterior and E. end are in the Romanesque style of architecture. Within there is a curious antique font, and a representa- tion of the entombment, the figures are of stone, as large as life. At the lower end of the town, by the water side, stands a most picturesque castellated building, with projecting turrets, sur- rounded by a red fringe-like orna- ment, and surmounted by peaked roofs ; but' of its history nothing is known. A road runs from Carden to the very interesting old Castle of Elz, the beau ideal of a feudal for- tress of the middle ages; but the walk to it is still further shortened by landing at the village of (1.) Miiden, from which it is not more than 2 miles distant. A steep path ascends the hill, behind the vil- lage; then, striking through fieldsjand orchards to a farm-house, reaches a pretty green meadow, from which the winding vale of the Elz is visible, and out of which peer the singular peaked turrets of its castle. The little stream of the Elz, re- markable for its excessive windings and contortions, almost encircles the tall bold rock on which the castle stands. A low isthmus alone pre- vents its being an island, and over this a bridge is thrown, forming the only approach. The banks of the river are tiiickly grown over with trees and brushwood ; and a second and rival castle, rising opposite to Schloss Elz, and within bow-shot of it, con- tributes to the beauty of this ro- mantic valley. The Castle of Elz is a singularly irregular building, or group of buildings, each of a different period and fashion. Loop- holed walls of solid masonry are surmounted by wooden framework houses and pointed gables, oriel win- dows alternate with projecting turrets, capped with roofs like extinguishers. The whole pile rises so abruptly from the edge of the precipice, that the rock on which it stands appears a pe- destal scarcely large enough to hold it. The path leading up to the main entrance is cut in the rock, and so steep that a beast of burthen could approach it with difficulty, and the archway is so low that a tall man must stoop to enter. It is the cradle of one of the most ancient and noble families in this part of Germany, and is an almost solitary example of a feudal residence spared by fire, war, and time, and remaining in nearly the same condition that it was 2 or 3 cen- turies ago. It is, however, on the verge of decay; no longer inhabited by the family, but abandoned to one or two servants, the slates falling off the roofs, the floors creaking under the feet. The interior is a complete labyrinth of chambers, galleries, cork screw stairs, ascents and descents ; scarcely a room has so few as 4 sides and corners. Many of the apart- ments are hung round with family portraits, sad daubs, valueless even to their descendants, and therefore left to their fate. In one room, there are a few 284. ROUTE XLII. THE MOSELLE. Sect. IV. pieces of rusty armour, such as would have served to equip Don Quixote; and in the cliapel, are one or two morsels of painted glass. These relics, and numerous fragments of old fur- niture, tapestry, &c., are only inter- esting as illustrating the mode of life of a generation whicli is past. The view from the looplioles of the projecting turrets is singular ; the stream of the Elz is seen following its snake-like course in the depths of the wooded gorge, 80 or 100 feet below you. The rival castle before alluded to, Trutz- Elz, on the opposite rock, was built to defy the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin, Bishop of Treves, who besieged tliem for many months, and cutting off, by this counter castle, the approaches to their strongliold, at length compelled them to surrender. They afterwards held this castle also as a fief from the Bishops, wliose vassals they became. About \\ mile higher up the valley, stands another castle, Schloss Pyrmont, belonging to Count Bassenheim, burnt by the Swedes in 1641 ; and near it is a cascade. The Elz falls into the Moselle at Mosel-Kern, about 3 miles below the Castle, but the road or path down the valley is very bad indeed, fording the stream, or crossing it on stepping stones, 12 or 13 times in that short distance. About three miles N. of Elz, lies Mlinster-Mayfeld. Route XLI. p. 272. (1.) Moselkern, a village at the mouth of the picturesque vale of Elz. (1.) The Castle of Bischofstcin was a stronghold belonging to the Arch- bishops of Treves. Its tall cylindri- cal donjon tower is girt round with a ■white streak, and a ruined chapel ad- joins it. It was built 1270. (1. ) Hatzenport. Moritz's Inn. (r. ) Brodenbach stands near the mouth of the Ehrcnbaci). The ra- vine out of which it issues should by all means be explored. At first gloomy and dark, it in a short while opens out, and discloses a lovely val- ley witli green meadows,vineyards,and water-mills, closed up in front by a rocky height, on the summit of which, only three miles distant from the Mo- selle, stands the castle of Ehrenburg. It is a splendid monument of old times, still in a tolerable state of pre- servation ; as it owes its decay to time and neglect, not to violence. It may be said to surpass in beauty any individual castle on the Rhine. It now belongs to the family Von Stein. (r.) Aiken, an ancient town, con- nected by a chain of towers with Schloss Thuron, on the height above ; one of the most picturesque castles on the Moselle. It has two circular keeps, and the green ivy creeps along its walls. It was built in 1209, and was held in 1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalzgrave Zorn. Having com- mitted depredations in the territory of his neighbours the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he was besieged for 2 years by their combined forces, who, in that time,'emptied 3000 butts of wine. The garrison, having con- sumed all their provisions, surren- dered the castle ; but Zorn cut his way through the enemy. (1.) The village of Catenes is said to derive its name from a chain (ca- tena), formerly stretched across the river at this point, to arrest boats and compel them to pay toll. (1.) Gondorf. — The conspicuous building, at the upper end of this vil- lage, by the water. side, is the family mansion of the Counts Von der Leyen, one of the oldest and most noble races on the INIoselle ; which numbers among its members many generals in the Imperial armies, and three Elec- tors of Treves and Cologne. The building was repaired in 1814, and has since passed out of the possession of the Von der Leyens. At the lower end of the village stands a gable-faced house, connected with a tall tower of defence, built 1350, and said to have belonged to the Knights Templars. A large quantity of potters' and pipe Rhenish Prussia. route XLII. — the moselle. 285 clay, obtained from pits tliree miles off, at Dreschenich, is here embarked, and sent to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutchmen. It is quite white, and of good quality : it is dug out from beneath a bed of gravel. (1.) Cobern. — The heights behind this little town are crowned by two ruined castles — the lower, or Xieder- hurg, and the Obvrhurg. Within the enclosure of the upper castle stands the very remarkable Chapel of St. Matthias. The way to it passes the new church, and the house of the pastor, who keeps the keys of the chapel, and will lend them to discreet persons. A steep footpath strikes up from a mill, through the vineyards, and behind the lower castle, which it leaves on the right. The view from the top is fine, and it takes about 20 minutes to reach it. St. Matthias Chaptl is an elegant little Gothic structure, in the form of a hexagon, supported within upon six clusters of columns, each formed of five detached marble pillars. The exact date of the building is unknown, but the style of the architecture is that of the first half of the thirteenth century, and its founders are supposed to have been Crusaders, who caused it to be erected on their return from the Holy Land. This may account for the somewhat Saracenic aspect of its interior. All the arches are rounded, except those which support the central tower, which are pointed and slightly horse-shoed ; the lower windows are in sliape like the ace of clubs. The effect of the interior is extremely light and grace- ful, and this chapel deserves to be visited by all who interest themselves in architecture. It lias been recently put into complete repair by the emi- nent architect von Lassaulx. (r. ) Diebelich is famous for witches, who in the middle ages were believed to haunt peculiarly this spot, and to hold meetings for midnight revelry on the top of a neighbouring moun- tain. At the end of the fifteenth century, a bishop, who had written a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 persons to be burned here for that crime ! (1.) Winningen is a Protestant village, though all around are Catho- lic. A neat modern school-house faces the river. (r.) Ley; — at the breaking up of the frost in the Moselle in 1830, this village was buried nearly thirty feet deep in ice, which broke the timber frame-work of most of the houses, and entirely swept away others, over- spreading all the lower vineyards. (See p. 245.) (1.) GUIs, distinguished by its twin spires, is surrounded by orchards, which furnish cherries and walnuts in large quantities for exportation to Holland. A carriage road has been completed along the (r. ) bank of the Moselle, from INIoselweiss to Nieder- fell. When extended farther up, it will become equally conducive to the convenience of the tourist, and to the prosperity of the valley. (1.) The spire of the Church of Metternich is seen above the trees. (r. ) Moselweiss, a small village supposed to be the V'icus Ambitianus of the Romans, and the spot where Agrippina gave birth to Caligula. The tower of the church is of great antiquity, and is mentioned in records of the year 1209. Above jMoselweiss rise the fortifications of Fort Alex- ander, one of the outworks of Coblenz, situated between the Aloselle and the Rhine. (r.) Coblenz. (p. 245.) Travellers may be landed on the Rhine Quai, a little below the bridge of boats ; but carriages can be disem- barked at this point only when the bridge is open ; at other times they are landed by the crane on the Mo- selle. Some of the finest scenery on the Moselle may be explored in two days, from Coblenz, thus : Take the Treves schnellpost as far as Lutzerath (p. 272. ), thence in a postchaise to the baths of Bertrich, about 6 mile» 286 ROUTE XLIII. — AIX LA CHAPELLE TO TREVES. Scct. IV. off, where the Kurhaus affords good quarters: here dine; and if only two da3's can be spared, proceed after dinner to Alf, and ascend the hill called Prinzenskijpfchen the same evening. Next morning at 5 a. m. take a boat to EUer, (1§ hour); there land, and walk (in 1 hour) to Cochem, where breakfast ; here take another boat to Ccblenz, which may be reach- ed in 7 hours. By devoting 3 hours more to the excursion, the traveller might visit Schloss-Elz. ROUTE XLIII. AIX LA CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 20 Pruss. miles = 93i Eng. miles. A Schnell post goes daily in 19 hours. This excellent macadamised road was completed in 1836, by the Prus- sian government, to open a commu- nication along the Belgian frontier ; its design seems rather military than commercial. It lies tlirough a coun- try wild and dreary in parts, in others very beautiful : in all most interest- ing to an English botanist, wlio will find in the wild heath between Treves and JMontjoie, and in the latter town itself, some of the rarest plants of his own country. It has hitherto been little visited by travellers, and the ac- commodation for them is therefore on a very low scale. About 7 miles from Aix is tlie vil- lage of Corneli-Miinster, with 750 inhabitants. The extensive remains of its ancient convent are turned into a clotli manufactory. 4 1 ]Montjoic, (pronounced Mon- schaw,) a small town of 3000 in- habitants, on the Roer, manufactures mudi cloth. [Bauer's Inn is tlie best.] Its Castle, a fine and nearly perfect specimen of the ancient Berg Schloss, imposing from its size, its strength, its site, and the gloomy grandeur of its masses, is said to have been originally a hunting seat of Charlemagne. Tiie village of Kaltenherberg (1 370 inhabitants) lies at the foot of the mountain range called Ilolie Veen (Fr. Hautes Fanges). Their highest summit is 2200 feet above the sea : tliis is a wild and sterile district, abounding in bogs and marshes. 2\ Biitgenbach, (/»« .• Poste,) a vil- lage of 500 souls. A cross-roa J goes hence to Spa, by way of Malniedy (Route XL I v.). This stage lies over a wild dreary track, part heath, part forest, which is burnt for charcoal, to 2 Losheim, a small village. Since the completion of the new road, the post station has been removed hither from Schonberg, which is now left considerably on the right. Near this, a good cross-road, on the left, leads from Losheim to Hellesheim, in the Eifel (p. 289.). Here begins the chain of hills called Schneifel (Snow, Eifel). 2| Priim. (Inn. Golden Stern, the best sleeping quarters between Aix and Treves. 25 s. gr. were charged by the hostess, in 1836, for supper, bed, and breakfast). This small town lies at the S. extremity of the Schneifel, immediately beneatli a most beautifully wooded hill, and has 2100 inhabitants. Early in the Vlllth century, the Benedictine monks fixed upon this agreeable val- ley, sheltered by hills and sin-ouded in woods, to build a monastery, which in the course of time became one of the most wealthy near the Rhine. Its abbots had the rank of princes, and their estates lay not only in the immediate neighbourhood, but in Picardy, Zutphen, Gueldrcs, &c. Arnheim and St. Goar were pos- sessions of the convent. Charle- magne bestowpd large grants upon it : his natural son, Pepin, became a monk here, after incurring his father's displeasure by his disobedience. The Emperor Lothaire retired hither, and also took the cowl ; he converted his crown into a crucifix, which was pre- served down to the time of the French revolution, when all the projjerty of the monastery was confiscated. A Rhenish Prussia. XLIII. — Aix la chapelle to Treves. 287 portion of the old convent alone sur- vives, and is now converted into a school. The church near it, in the Italian style, and comparatively unin- teresting, replaces the magnificent original church of the Abby Sancli Bencdicti ad Pratmn, (whence the modern name Priim,) of which no vestige now remains. In the burial ground, outside the town, a stone cross is planted, on the spot where the high altar stood ; the walls of this edifice were pulled down to furnish materials for rebuilding the houses of the town, after it had been destroyed by fire in 17G9. The excursion to the Upjier Eifd (Route XLIV.) may be made from Priim. A carriage with 2 horses may be hired here for 3 dollars a day ; the distance to Gerolstein is about 12 miles ; the road is only prac- ticable for light carriages. Hereabouts, the modern road falls in with the great Roman hiyltway from Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an inscription found at Marmagen, that Agrippa was the director of this, the greatest work of the Romans in their llhenish provinces. It was carried through a country still wild and unpeopled, but in their days as little trodden as the back woods of America are now. It appears by the Roman Itinerary, that besides nu- merous post-houses (mutationes for chanping horses), there were six mansiones along this line of road, serving at the same time as military posts, garrisoned with troops ; as hotels, in which the emperors them- selves were accommodated on their journeys, and as stations of relays of horses for couriers: the first of these was at Tobliacum (Zulpich), the last at Bfedse Vicus ( Bitburg). Ac- counts have been published of a vast subterraneous aqueduct extending all the way from Cologne to Treves, nearly parallel with the high read ; and it is certain that remains of such a structure are still visible at ten or twelve different places between the two cities. Considering that they were both situated on great rivers, well furnished with water, it is diffi- cult to comprehend the use of so extensive a conduit. The writers of the middle ages, indeed, have not scrupled to affirm, that it was in- tended to convey a stream of wine between them ! The most probable' explanation of it is, that instead of being one continuous water-course, it is nothing more than a number of of small unconnected aqueducts, built at the same time, and probably with similar materials, to supply in- dividual stations on the Roman i-oad with water. About 4i miles from Priim is Schoeneken, a small village of 1538 inhabitants. The Inn, kept by Kyndt, is said to be good. The ruins of the ancient castle stand upon a com- manding height. It originally be- longed to the family of the counts of Viandcn, who possessed the ad- vowson of the Abbey of Priim j it was destroyed by the French in 1802, and sold by them for building materials. Between Balesfeld and Bitburg, the road does not pass a single vil- lage ; the country is a desolate track of high land, with a rough climate, and a barren soil, but still frequently opening into beautiful views. The inhabitants are rude and unpolished, their houses and persons alike slo- venly, in proportion as the land they inhabit is wild and remote. They are also ignorant and superstitious ; and not contented with keeping the usual holidays and festivals of the church, almost every village has a patron saint of its own, in whose honour festivals are celebrated. Each saint is supposed to have a peculiar province, and to preside over some particular class of diseases. Thus St. Apollonia is invoked in cases of tooth-ache ; St. Blaize, to avert sore throats ; St. Lambert, to cure epi- lepsy ; St. Olililia, for sore eyes ; St. Lucia, for other complaints ; St. Gertrude is engaged to drive away 288 ROUTE XLIV. THE UPPEH EIFEL. Sect. IV. rats ; ami St. Wendelin is looked upon as the protector of cattle. On their anniversaries the people flock in crowds to the churches dedicated to these medical saints so rich in remedies, bringing offerings not only ,of nionej', but also of butler, eggs, pigs' heads, ivc, which give the church the appearance of a market- place rather than a place of worship. Upon those days no work is done, and the evening concludes usually in drinking and gambling. — See Dr. Brcrsch's Communication to Scfireiher. 4h Bitburg, (Inn, Die Poste), a town of 1700 inhabitants, anciently a Roman station, and called Baedae- viciis. A Roman villa was discovered a few years ago at Fliessem, about S miles from Bitburg. It contains very perfect mosaics and a hypocaust in excellent preservation, curiously illustrating the mode of heating build- ings and apartments by the Romans. Two Roman mile-stones were dug up in a wood near Bitburg ; they stood on the ancient high road, a short distance from the new post-road. They bear the [name of the Emperor Ha- drian, in whose reign they were set up, and the distance marked upon them was 22,000 paces from Treves, (M. P. XX II.) Between Bitburg and Helenen- berg there is not a single village ; but traces of the Roman road appear in sight from lime to lime. The very beautiful church at Helenenberg (called also the hospital) is now turned into a barn. Near Pullkn, a village whose inhabitants live partly in caves cut out of the rocks, the road is carried over a deep ravine upon a magnificent bridge of a single arch, built by Napoleon ; and a pas- sage has been hewn for the road it- self in the solid rock, for a considera- ble distance, until it reaches the bank of the 3IoselIe, immediately opposite the city of SJ Treves — see p. 273. ROUTE XLIV. THE UPPER EIFEL. SPA TO PHiJ-M, GEROLSTEIN, DAUK, AND LUTZERATH. The first part of the road alone is macadamised; the rest, though not good, is practicable for a light car- riage, which may be hired at Spa or Priim for a certain number of days. The country is particularly inte- resting to the geologist, from the de- cided traces of volcanic agency which it exhibits in its lava currents, and numerous extinct craters, many of them now filled with lakes or tarns. Apart from this consideration, the scenery of the Eifel has many fea- tures of no inconsiderable beauty and interest to induce the ordinary tra- veller to visit it. " The high ground constituting this tract of country is much diversified with finely-formed eminences, which are often conical or crater-shaped, and frequently wooded; the valleys are remarkable sometimes for their bold and rocky sides, frequently capped with old castles, and ^contracting into narrow glens ; sometimes for their softer or wooded and verdant character ; above all, the great peculiarity of the dis- trict is the secluded, often much con- cealed, and singular ' maars ' or crater lakes." T. T. The region of the Eifel is still the haimt of wolves and wild boars ; the former not unfrequently approach hu- man habitations in the winter, and commit depredations on the flocks. A gradual ascent of nearly 4 miles, shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, leads out of the valley of Spa, passing first the abandoned gaming-house, and afterwards the mineral spring of Sauveniere, situated in a clump of trees. Beyond this lies a high, level, and bare district of barren heath. At the village of Francourchamps the road to Malmedy, turning to the left, leaves that to Stavelot, and about IJ mile further runs the Prussian fron- tier, where baggage is slightly exam- ined (§ 43). RhenLh Prussia, route XLIV. — the upper eif£l. 289 2. MalmeJy ( Inn, Hotel de Clieval Blanc, a humble inn), a small town of 4000 inhabitants, famous for the manufacture of bole leather for slices, there being 50 tanneries here in active work. The hides are derived from South America ; the Ardennes forest furnishes the best bark; the greater part of Germany is supplied from Malmedy and Stavelot, and many of the tanners are very wealthy. The fantastic houses and gardens, in and aroiKid the town, chiefly their property, ^rfe somewhat in the Dutch style. The most remarkable of them, INionthijou, lies on our road a little way out of the town. The road to the Eifel enters the great highway from Aix to Treves. {Route XLIII.), about 8 miles from Malmedy, a little beyond 2. Biitgenbach. A cross-road turns off near this to Hiilesheim, a curious old walled town. From a Iiill near it, a fine view is obtained of the Eifel, and a bad cross-road runs from hence to Gerolstein, by Rockeskill, a distance of about 6° miles. 2. Losheim, 1 in p. 2fi6. 2^. Priini J At Priim we turn aside to enter upon the district of the Eifel. The roads throughout it are almost invarial)ly bad, especially in wet weather, and tiie country hilly. Gerolsteiii, where the tour of the Eifel properly begins, is about 10 miles from Priim. It has an excel- lent inn, with good beds, kept by the Burgermeibtcr i^Scineiber). It is a picturesque town on the Kyll, in a valley running bLtwcen clilTs of lime- stone and dolomite, which, more par- ticularly on the north side, often present precipitous and striking es- carpments, and peculiarly formed, and sometimes isolated rocky eminences. Above the town are the ruins of a Castle. .\\\ interesting excursion, and one that may easily he accomplished in a forem.on, is to start by ti;e foot- path leading to the clear carbonated spring at the bottom of the valley, to I cross the river Kyll, and ascend t;i^ I hill opposite fto the north of tlie I town). On the summit is a perfectly i formed dry crater called the Pfaffen- ; kaule. The surface of the hollow is i now cultivated, but tracts of volcanic , action are every where apparent. A little to tlie west is a stream of lava, which divides into two branches, and includes a hollow space termed the Ilagelskaule. Near it to the south there is a considerable cavern situ- ated in the cliffs, termed the Biichen- I loch, formed by one of the numerous fissures in the strata, but probably I enlarged by art. Thence the field I may be crossed to the Ice grotto of Roth, in order to see which, liglits ; and a guide may be procured at a farm-house and inn near the church : of Roth. In this cavern, which is a sort of natural ice-house, ice is always to be found during the summer, l)ut it is said to dis:!ppcar in winter. In returning to Gerolstein, the road may be varied by crossing the base of the Auberg, where innumerable fossil shells, corals, 8cc. are found strewed over the surface of the fields. Several persons in GeroNtein form collec- tions of them for sale. T. T. One of the curiosities of the neighbour- hood is a mineral spring, called Brou- deldreis, opposite Birresborn, on a hill within the Gerolsteinwaid. In the summer it dries up ; but if a cup full of water be thrown into the basin of rock from which it issues, a rattling is heard, and a jet of water spirted out. Dead bodies of birds and other small animals are often found near it, destroyed by having alighted withiri the range of the nox- ious vapour issuing from it carbonic acid gas), but it is a fable tint birds are killed in flying over it. Peasants stooping down to drink are repulsed by the suflbc.iiing vapour, wliich being heavier tha:: the air, lies along the surface of the water in a stratum, more or less deep as the atmospliere is agitated or calm. O -290 ROUTE XLV. BINGEN TO TREVES. Sect. IV. The road from Gerolstein to Kirchwc'iler, 3 miles), passes the Casselburg, a picturesque stronghold, surmoiintiiig a mass of basaltic rock. Dochweiler, 3 miles farther, is a vil- lage built of lava. Near it to the noith-west is a large basin-shaped crater called Dreiser Weiher, which, though now a meadow, was evidently at a former period filled with water, and is still remarkable for its nu- merous mineral springs. Dreis, in the language of the Eifel, means a mineral spring. Olivine, a compara- tively rare mineral, is found at the south side of the crater, sometimes in masses 18 inclies in diameter, and augite is also met with. Glassy fel- spar is found at Hohenfels near this. Some of the highest hills in the Eifel surround the Dreiser Weiher. Five miles from Dochweiler lies Daun ; where Hijlzer's inn is good. The castle was the family residence and the birth-place of the Marshal who led the Austrian armies in the VII. ye;us' war. On the summit of a steep acclivity near this, lie 3 crater lakes, separated from each other by a narrow partition of slaty rock. The principal one, the Gmunden Maar, is very beautiful. From Daiin, a detour should be made by Stadfeld to Man- flersclieid, in order to see its old castle and the Bleerfelder Maar, another considerable crater lake in a per- fectly circular basin, 100 fathoms deep ; the water does not occupy the vliole of it. Close to it rises tlic hill of Mosenberg, remarkable for its four volcanic cones of slag; three of them are perfect, one is broken down on the south ; from one of them a current of basaltic lava descends into the valley. Gillenfeld, (Burgomaster Zi- ehen's Inn,) on the road to Liilze- raih, passing lledersdorf, is the next point of interest. Here is situated the Pulvermaar, one of ihe largest and most beautiful crater lakes of the Eifel, 330 feet deep. On the way form Gillenfeld to Lutzerath is the village of Strotzbusch, buiit in the hollow of a crater lake, and near it there are remains of another crater, formerly perhaps a lake. Iviitzerath is distant from Daun, by the direct road, about I '2 En.glish miles. We have now entered upon Route XLI. ROUTE XLV, BISGEK TO TUEVES. 16\ Pruss. miles == 76 Eng. miles. This is a hilly road recently mac- adamized; the traffic along it is incon- siderable, and post-horses are rather scarce. It is traversed 4 times a week by a Fuhrpost, which sets out from the post-house on the (1.) bank of the Nahe, close to Bingen bridge. In consequence of delays to be expected at post-houses, the journey will scarcely take up less than IG or IS hours. IJ Stromberg. 3 Simmern. "We follow the line of the old Roman road as far as Kirchberg. 2 J Buchenbeurn. From this to Berncastel the road is very hilly, running over the high table-land of the Ilundsruck (Dog's Back) hills. For a considerable distance neither house nor human being is to he seen. The country is a bleak uncultivated waste of moor and moss, with forest interspersed. Here and there a dis- tant view over hills and valleys ap- pears. We again follow the line of the old Roman road, called in the country Stcin^trasse. By the side of it is seen a small truncated tower (Stumpfe Tluirm), probably a Roman work. It is supposed indeid that the Roman station Belginum.or Tahernae, may have stood u|)on this spot. A little farther on, the road descends through a narrow and winding ravine, whose sides, formed of ragged slate rocks, are exceedingly picturesque, in many places overhanging the road, and sprinkled over with trees and underwood. Considerable mines have Rhenish Prussia. routeXLV. — cologne to frankfort. 291 with the Rhine. Upon the rock of St. Michael, in a singularly beautiful situation, immediately overhanging the town, stands the ancient Benedic- tine abbey, founded in 1060 by Arch- bishop Hanno, who is buried witliin the fine church. It is now converted into a lunatic asylum. 2 Uckerath. 1^ Wcyerbusch. At Altenkirchen. 2\ Wahlerod or M'ahlroth, the first station in the territory of Nassau. 2 Freilingen. 2 AVallineroth. 2 Limburg, (7nn.- Post,) described in Route XCVI. Nicder-Selters, whence the cele- brated water is obtained, is passed on this stage ; it is described under the head Schwalbach, in Route XCV. 3 Wiirges. 3 Konigstein, Route XCVII. ' 2^ Frankfurt a. M., Route XCV. been driven into these rocks, and roofing slate is obtained from them. Many of the entrances to them open close upon the road side. At the bottom of this steep descent lies Sj Bemcastel, on the Moselle. Page 259. The Moselle is here passed by a ferry-boat, and a very rough cross road leads to 3^ Hezerath, on tlie high road from Coblenz to Treves. 2J Treves. At page 253. ROUTE XLV. a COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT A. SI., BT SIEGBURG AND I.ISIBURG. 24^ Germ. miles= 1 14 Eng. miles. A macadamised post road, 1| Germ, miles shorter than that by Coblenz. 3j Siegburg, [Inn ; Post,) a town of 2500 inhabitants, on the Sieg, about 4 miles above its junction o 2 292 SECTION V. PRUSSIA, coNTiNUF.n — MECKLENBURG— HANOVER*— BRUNSWICK — HESSE CASSEL — THE HANSE TOWNS, &c. ourEs. Pace HOUTES. LVI. London to Hamhurg 29'i LXVIII. Cologne to Berlin, by LYII. Ilambiiig to Luhec Paderhorn, Druiis- and Travemunde - 29C wich, and Magde- LVIII. to Dohhc- burg . - - ran and Rostock - 299 LXIX. DusseldorftoJSre/wcn, LIX. to Hanover 300 by Miinstcr LX. Bremen LXX. Frankfort-A.-M. to and Oldenburg - 301 Cassel LXI. Hamburg to Berlin - 301 LXXI. Cassel to Hanover, by LXII. Bei lin to Leipsig, by Pyrmont Potzdam and Vi'it- LXXII. Cassel to Hanover, by ieiibirci 319 Gijttiiir/cn LXIII. Berlin to Dresden - 324 LXXIII. The Haktz — GiJt- LXIV. Dusscldorf to Berlin, by ElberfiU, Cas- sel, Eiskhtn and tingen to Ciaus- ihal; — Goslar the Bracken, the Ross- HaUe 324 trappe, the Valley LXV. Cologne to Hanover, of the Bode, and by Miiiden 3 £8 Alexishad - LXVI. Cologne to Berlin, by LXX IV. The Hautz. — Nord- INIindcn 330 liausen to Magde- LXVII. Cologne to Elberfeld, by SoUnc/en - 330 burg 331 y:iG 338 - 342 Vi5 346 - 354 ROUTE LVI. LONDON TO HAMBURG. Steam-boats go twice a week, start- ing from London and from Hamburg Wednesday and Saturday mornings : tliey s.tt off" so early in the morning that it is advisable to sleep on board the niglit before. The average pas- sage is about 52 hours, though it sometimes takes 60 or 70. A tra- veller leaving London on Saturday morning commonly reaches Ham- burg early on Monday. — He has the greater part of that day to look about him there, and he may set out for Berlin Ijy the Schnellpost in the evening, and breakfast there on "Wed- nesday morning, i. e. in four days from London. About 25 miles from the mouth of the Elbe lies tiie island of Heligo- land (Ilolylaiid), so named from the Temple of Heriha (Earth), the god- dess worsiiipped by tiie ancient Sax- ons, which stood on it. It was ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and some * III Brunswick and Hanover accounts arc kcid in Good Groschcn ('^,55.} and Pfennings m.irked £60 Eineti 'i'haler. Prussia. ROUTE L^'I• HAMBURG. 293 fortifications are raised on it. Its population amounts to 3000. At the time when Napoleon had excluded England from the continent, it was important as a war-sUition ; and from its situation near the mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser, it then be- came a considerable smuggling depot. Its male inhabitants are chiefly fisher- men, sailors, and pilots. Tlie sea is fast consuming its shores ; and, in the course of time, will in all probability leave nothing behind but a sand- bank : it is now about two miles in circumference, but is diminishing daily. (1.) At the mouth of the Elbe stand the lighthouse and town of Cuxhnven, on a small angle of territory belonging to Hamburg. Vessels lie at anchor off this place waiting for favourable winds. It is a watering place frequented by the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea-batli- ing. Beyond Cuxhaveu, the left bank of the Elbe belongs to Hanover; it is for the most part flat and uninterest- ing. The only towns on this side are Stadc, an unimportant place, and Haarburg, opposite Hamburg. The land on the (rt.) bank is the ter- ritory of the Duchy of Holstein, be- longing to Denmark ; it rises in gentle slopes, covered, for some distance below Hamburg, with wood, interspersed ■with handsome villas and gardens be- longing to ojjulent merchants. On this side lies the small town of Gliick- stadf, capital of Holstein, with 6000 inhabitants. Higher up the little fishing village of Blankenese, v\itli its houses scattered along the slope and among the trees one above another, is jiassed ; and above it, the town of (rt.) Alton A, which joins Hamburg, and from the river seems to form a part of it, though within tlie Danish terri- tory. It has risen to great mercantile prosperity, perhaps to the prejudice of its neighbour, so that the Hamburgers say that its r.ame agrees with its situ- ation, as it is All-zu-nah (All too near). Jt is the most commercial and populous towu in Denmark next to Copenhagen, having 27,000 inliabit- I ants. Passengers arriving by water at I Hamburg are compelled to disembark j in boats : but the Senate has at last voted a large sum of money for the construction of a Qku/ along the Elbe, and for deepening the harbour, so as to 1 allow steam-boats to lie alongside, and I embark and disembark their passen- I gers at once. I (rt.) Hamburg. — Inns: Hotel de Russie, best; Alle Siadt London, on the Jungferstieg, is comfortable, and ' has a table d'hote ; Belvedere ; Hotel ; de Petersbourg. I Hamburg is situated at a distance I of about 80 miles from the mouth of I the Elbe, at the junction of a small stream called the Alster with the I Elbe. Being a Free Town, the duties levied are so small, tint travellers are not bothered with any Custom-liouse examination on landing; but pass- ports are usually demanded, and the traveller's name and profession are entered at the Baumhaus, near tlie port. Its population is reckoned at 1 21,000. There are about 6000 Jews, who, to the disgrace of xWis free town, are treated with the utmost illiber- ality, almost as a Pariah caste, being interdicted bij 'aw not only from en- joying the rights of citizens, but even from practising any handicraft trade. Money accounts are kept in marks and schillings; there are \G schil- lings in a mark. The marc banco and rix dollar banco are imaginary coins. The mark banco is to the current mark as 16 to 13. The cur- rent coins are, "■ English. The Mark Courant = I 2i Double Mark =2 5' Pieces of 8 Sihillings = 7 4 Sch. =0 3^ The Rix doll. (Specie) = 4 7 Mark Banco (imag.) = 1 5j The gates of Hamburg arc shut every evening at dusk, and a toll, increasing progressively every hour O 3 294 ROUTE LVI. HAMBURG. Sect. V. till 12, is demanded from all who pass. Down to the year 1836 neither ingress or egress was allowed to any one after midnight; but this incon- venient regulation is now removed, and persons may pass and repass all through the night, upon payment of one mark each. All eatables brought into the town are taxed at the gates, and even private carriages are some- times searched, and game found in them has been seized. The executive government of the town is vested in a council or senate, composed of burgomasters, lawyers, and merciiants, elected for life. The person chosen must accept the office, or quit the city, at the same time forfeiting one-tenth of his property. The members wear a quaint garb, a black velvet cloak, and high crowned hat The legislative power is placed in the hands of three Colleges selected from the general body of citizens. Hamburg is one of the three re- maining Hanse towns, and is chiefly remarkable as the first trading seaport of Germany. It is intersected by canals, called Fleeten, and in this respect, in the antiquated appearance of its houses, and in the number of trees growing in its streets, bears a resemblance to the towns of Holland. Nearly 2000 vessels clear out of the port annually : the Elbe is navigable thus far for ships of considerable bur- then, which can enter the harbour and transmit their cargoes in barges to the merchants' doors. Their ware- houses and dvvellings are generally under one roof. Much banking and funded business is done here, and the town possesses considerable sugar re- fineries : besides which it is the depot for a large part of the exports and imports of the N. of Europe. The traveller must not expect fine buildings, or valuable collections here ; use, and not ornament, has been the guiding principle in the construction of public as well as private buildings. 'I'lie objects chiefly calculated to at- tract a stranger's attention are, first, the costumes seen in the streets of Hamburg ; they are not a little sin- gular. Servant girls, housemaids, and cooks, according to the custom of the place, rarely appear in public except in the gayest attire ; with lace caps, long kid gloves, and a splendid shawl. The last article is elegantly arranged under the arm, so as to conceal a basket shaped like a child's coffin, containing dirty clothes, butter or cheese, or other articles purchased at market, as the case may be. The pea- sants who frequent the market wear a very picturesque attire; they are chiefly natives of a part of the Hamburg ter- ritory bordering on the Elbe, called Vierland, which is principally laid out in gardens, and supplies the market with vegetables. Funeral processions in Hamburg are not composed of friends of the deceased, but of hired mourners, called Reiten Diener, dressed in black, with plaited rufl!s round their necks, curled and powdered wigs, short Spanish cloaks, and swords. The same per- sons, whose number is limited to six- teen, attend at marriage festivals, and form also a sort of body-guard to the magistrates. Their situations were formerly purchased at a high price, in consideration of the perquisites and fees attached to them. Upon the death of a burgomaster or other personage of importance in the town, the town trum- peter, a civic officer, is set to blow a dirge from one of the steeples. A large portion of the poorer inha- bitants live in cellars under the houses. In winter, and after a prevalence of west winds, which drive the waters of the German Ocean into the mouth of the Elbe, the tides rise to a great height (sometimes even exceeding 20 feet), inundating all the streets near the river. The tenants of tliese cel- lars are then driven from their habit- ations by the water, which keeps pos- session of them for days, leaving them filled with ooze, and in a most unhealthy condition from the mois- ture. A humane law compels those Prussia, nOUTE LVI. HAMBURG. 295 who lodge above to receive and suc- cour their poorer brethren below, at such seasons of calamity. The churches have little architec- tural beauty. St. Michael's has one of the highest steeples in Europe, 456 feet high, about 100 feet higher than St. Paul's in London, from which the town and the Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, Holstein on the north, and Hanover on the south, present them- selves advantageously to view. It is also the station of the fire-watch (§39). The Senate House is not wortli en- tering ; it contains only public offices. At three o'clock the merchants, &c., meet in the Exchaiir/e. Near I it are the news and reading-rooms, I called Borsenhalle, a sort of Lloyd's coffee-house, supported by subscrip- tions. A stranger can be introduced for two or three days to read the papers, after which ho is expected to subscribe. The Harmonin is another club (§ 40.), partaking of a literary as well as mercantile character. A new and handsome Exchange is about to be built. The charitable institutions of Ham- burg are on a most munificent scale. The Orphan Asylum provides for 600 children, who are received as infants, reared, educated, and bound appren- tices to some useful trade. The Great Hospital ( Krankenhaus), in the suburb of St. George, is capable of containing from 4000 to 5000 sick. The yearly cost of supporting this admirable in- stitution is nearly 17,000/. Its utility is not confined to the poor alone, as even persons of the higher classes re- sort to the hospital to avail themselves of the advantages of the excellent me- dical treatment which they may here obtain. Such patients are admitted as lodgers, on payment of a sum varying from Hd. to 8s. a day. The Chapel contains a good painting by Overheck (a living artist), Christ on the Mount of Olives. The House in which Klop- stock the poet lived thirty years and died, is No. 232 in the Konigstrasse. lioedinr/'s Museum is a collection of odds and ends, with some real curiosi- ties, where half an hour may be spent when there is nothing better to do. The Jungfernstieg (Maiden's Walk) is a broad walk, by the side of a basin of water formed by damming up the river Alstcr. It is the fashionable proiTienade, especially resorted to in the summer evenings, when the sur- face of the water is covered with gaily painted boats filled with water parties. It is flanked by handsome rows of new houses. At the water- side are the two most frequented cafes in the town, called Pavilions. There are floating baths on the Alster. The New Theatre is one of the largest in Germany, and the perform- ances and music generally very good. The play begins at six and usuilly ends before ten. The public hall- rooms in and about the town, though not frequented by the most respect- able classes, being often tlie resort of low company, deserve to be loohed at as one of the peculiarities of the place. The best are the Elbe Pavilion, and the Schweitzer Pavilion. Hamburg had once the misfortune to be a fortified town, and in conse- quence was subjected to the horrors of a siege from the French, and was twice occupied by their armies, who, under Davoust in 1813, exercised the most cruel severities and atrocities ' upon the inhabitants. The Ramparts ■ no longer exist, being levelled and ' converted into delightful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, which ex- tend nearly round the town, and be- tween the two Alster basins. A mo-^t pleasing view of the town and river, the shipping and opposite shore of the Elbe, presents itself from the emi- nence at the extremity of these walks nearest to Altona, called the Stintfang. Outside the Damm Gate is the public cemetery, which deserves a visit, as exhibiting the customs and usages of Germany with regard to the resting- place of the dead. (§41.) The merchants of Hamburg are O ^ 296 UOUTE LVII. — HAMBURG TO LUBEC. Sect. V, celebrated for their hospitality and tlK- goodness of their dinners, as all strangers can testify who are well introduced. It is customary to give vaiis to servants in private houses ; — they expect at least two marks from cacli \isiter. The English residents here are very numerous, and their lan- guage is almost uni\ ersally uni;erstood even hy ihe Germans. They are about to ercc; a eliuicli for themselves, of which the foundation was laid in 1 836. At present the English service is per- foimed in a temporary building. A British Consul and vice-consul reside here. Hackney coaches, called Droshies, ply for hire in all the principal tlio- roughfares of the town. Tliey are good and cheap. Any distance witiiin tlie town costs about Sri., and if hired by the hour the charge is Is. Cd. Environs It is a very pleasant drive to descend the right bank of the Elbe from Altona to Blankenese. The slopes bordering on the river are studded with country seats of merchants, and possess considerable natural beauty. Between Hamburg and Altona lies a sort of neutral ground, a narrow strip of about lialf a mile, called Hamburgerburg, oc- cupied by low taverns and dancing- rooms ; in fact, a sort of Wapping, extending to the gate of Altona, where the uniform of the sentinel and the Danish coat of arms mark the frontier of Holstein. At tlie furtlier end of Altona is the snbiu'b of Ottonsce, where the brave Duke of Brunswick died, in 1806", from the wound he liad rccfived in the battle of Jena. In the churdiyard, by the side of the road, and under an umbrageous elm, is the tomb of Kloi)stock, author of the " Messiah." Here is also a monument to the 1 1. 38 Hamburgers, who iierished in 18l:!-14 during the siege and occu- ])alion of Hamburg by the French. Turlher on the right is llainville's tavern and garden, overlooking the Elbe. The house itself was inha- bited successively by Dumourier and Bourrienne. The view is fine, the cuisine very tolerable, and in fine summer afternoons \ery respectable company repair hither to dine or take coflee. Booth's nursery gardens, near Wandsbeck, contain many choice and rare flowers. The amateur of horti- culture will do wisely in purchasing seeds of stocks, wall-llowers, ^-c, which are brought to singular per- fection here. At Blankanese, about six miles from Hamburg, I\Ir. Bauer's pleasure grounds, thrown open to the public on Thursdays and Sundays, are a common resort of the cockneys of Hamburg. In an opposite direction, about three miles from Hamburg, lies the village of Wandshcck, in a very pretty situation. Every Sunday and holy- day it oversows with visiters from Hamburg of all classes, who repair hither to walk in the gardens of the Sfhioss, and enjoy the amusements of waltzing and music. Tycho Brahe the astronomer lived in the cliateau, and Voss the poet also re- sided here. In 1813, the French, under Mar- shal Davoust, threw a wooden bridge, 1.5,000 feet long, over the Elbe to the Hanoverian shore, or rather, imited the islands by a series of bridges which lasted till 18)8. Their place is now supplied by a steam fir ri/ boat, wliich runs twice a day in ai>out ii hours between Hamburg and Ilaar- burg. Stea?n-boats alao run regularly in summer to Hull and Havre. Schnellposts go ,5 times a week to Berlin ; 3 times a week to Hanover and Bremen. ROUTE LVII. HASIBUIIG TO LUEEC, by Sclioenberg 8 Germ. =38^ Eng- lish miles ; by Oldeslohe 9.1 Germ. = 'ie.', English miles. The road beyond the termination of the Hamburg territory, at Wands- beck, is one of the worst in Europe, and has been pronounced a disgrace Prussia. BOUTE LVII LUBEC. 297 to any civilised country. It is nothing but a track marked by wheels in the deep sand, which is here and there interspersed with large boulder stones. None but carriages of the strongest construction can stand it, a waggon sometimes requires 1 1 horses. The seliisli policy of the king of Denmark keeps it in its present execrable con- dition, in the hope of compelling tra- vellers and goods to pass tlirough the Sound, where they must pay a loll to him. Failing in this, it is his wish to make Kiel, a town of his own do- minion, the port of embarkation on the way to St. Petersbm-g, in prefer- ence to Lubec, which would cause a useless detour and loss of time to travellers going from ILuiiburg. Though the distance is only 38 miles, it forms, stoppages included, a long day's journey, of 10 or 12 hours, the more tedious because the country is u::inferesting. There are no post- horses or regular public diligences, and the road would ruin an English carriage. The usual mode of pro- ceeding is to hire a hackney-coacii (called Stadtwagen) at Hamburg, the cost of which for the journey is about three ducats, exclusive of a trinkgeld to the driver. A kind of long cart, called Stuhlwagen, is much used in this country. The body is made of wicker-work, so that it bends and yields to the ups and downs of the road. The seats are suspended across it, but as it is not hung on springs, the jolting is intolerable, and it is far better to fill the bottom with hay, upon which the traveller may recline more at his ease. The preferable road from Hamburg, because the shortest of the two, is by 4. Schoenberg, where there is a neat inn, with clean beds ; a traveller might dine or sleep with tolerable comfort in it. This place is just halfway. The territory belonging to Lubec begins about 6 miles from its walls: — once \>itliin it, and the road is very good. 4 LuBFC. Inns : Stadt Hamburg : H. du Nord, Funf Thiirme (5 towers) ; Goldener Engel. The Free Hanse town of Lubec is built on a ridge between the rivers Trave and Wackenitz, which entirely surround its walls, and has a popula- tion of 25,G00 souls. Its limited terri- tory comprehends altogether 35,000 inhabitants, and is bounded by those of Holstein, Oldenburg, and 3Ieck- lenburg. In external appearance the buUd- ings of the town have undergone but little change since the XVth century. Its houses, distinguished by thfir quaint gables, and often by the splen- dour of their architecture, its feudal gates, its Gothic churches, and its venerable Ratlihaus, all speak of that period of prosperity when as an Im- perial free city, aud, above all, as chief of tlie Ilanseatic League, Lubec deserved the name of the Carthage of the North. For full 4 centuries, from 1260 to 1G69, she maintained that prominent position, the seat of the government of the Confederation, the repository of its archives, and t!ie station of its fleet, to the command of whieh she was entitled to appoint onj of her citizens. From the dissolution of the League, however, her import- ance diminished, and her commerce decayed, until she dwindled into the existing state of insignificance, frotn which she is not likely soon to emerge, and which is soon made evident to the stranger, by the deserted and grass-grown streets, and the numerous empty houses. Principal Buildings: — The Dom or Cathedral at the S. end of the town, begun 1170, and finished, after inter- ruptions, 1341, contains in its side chapels the monuments of many of the patiician families of Lubec, and the tombs of nimierous bishopi and canons in the choir. Behind the high altar, in one of the chapel<, is a very remarkable ancient painting, by an unknown artist (Heniling?), bear- ing the date 1!7 1, represtuting the Passion of our Saviour. O 5 29S ROUTE LVII. — LUBEC. Sect. V. The outside of the folding doors bears a picture of the Annunciation ; inside of them are figures of St. John the Baptist, St. Jerome, St. Blaize, and St. Philip. The central picture is a representation of the events of the Passion of our Saviour, from the Agony in the Garden to the Resur- rection; depicted in 23 distinct groups introduced into a landscape, in the back- ground of which appears the city of Jerusalem. The stone pulpit (1568), and brass font (1455), are both of excellent workmanship. According to a tra- dition, this cliurch is built on the spot where Henry the Lion, while engaged in the chase, fell in with a stag having a cross growing between its horns ; a circumstance perpetuated by two fresco paintings in the nave. Among other curiosities is the bronze effigy of bishop Bockholt in a reclining position, whicli adorns his monument. Even more remarkable, especially in the interior, is the Marienkirche, a brick building in the Gothic style, finished before the year 1164, and displaying much elegance in its archi- tecture and decorations. In addition to numerous monuments and several pictures by artists of the XVtli cen- tury, it contains a painting of the Dance of Death, of no value as a work of art, but curious from the nature of the design, and its antiquity, since it has been preserved here since 146^5, (.'55 years before the birlh of Holbein, to whose pencil it was formerly attri- buted). It has been rcpeatededly re- touclicd. The great lion of the valets de place, however, is an astronomical clock, behind the high altar, con- structed in 1405, which, by tlie con- trivance of watch-work, sends forth at noon every day, figures of the Em- peror and 7 Electors, wlio march in review before the statue of our Sa- viour ; eacli as it passes making a reverential obeisance, and then disap- pear at tlie opposite side from that by v.liich they entered. This church contains a good speci- men of the modem school of histori- cal painting in Germany, in tlie picture of Christ's Entry into Jerusalem, by Overbeck, a native of Lubec. The Gothic Rathhaus facing the market-place, nearly in the centre of the town, and close to tlic Marien- kirche, was built between 1442 and 1517, but has suffered much from recent repairs. Within its walls in ancient times, the deputies from 85 cities of Germany, who composed the Hanseatic League, held their deliber- ations. Here were concerted those wise measures which raised the con- federation from humble Ijeginnings to a height of power and wealth, which not only enabled it to establish factories in all the great cities of Europe, including Bergen, Novgorod, Bruges, and London, but obtained for it the supremacy of the ocean, enabling it to wage successful war against neighbouring states, with an army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose powerful monarchs and form treaties of alliance with great king- doms. The beautiful Hull of the Hansa, in which this council met, was unfortunately destroyed in making some repairs in 1817. The senate of the town now assemble in the lower story. The presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the title of " your Magni- ficence," the learned Senators are ad- dressed " high wise," and the mer- chant Senators " well wise Sirs. " In the Market-place is a stone, upon which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Lubec, was beheaded for running away from the Danish fleet. Sir Godfrey Kneller and Adrian Ostade were born here ; the houses of both are still pointed out, as well as that in which Count Struensee lived, near the cathedral. Tlie stranger should not omit to obtain a siglit of the curious and well executed carvings in wood, by an un- known artist, which ornament one of tlie rooms in the house No. 194. in the street called .Schiissel-buden. Tlie Hohteiner T/ior ( Holstein Gate) Prussia. ROUTE LVIII. — Hamburg to dobberav. 299 is a singular and interesting specimen of ancient feudal fortification, in an unaltered condition. Tlie ramparts are planted and converted into pleasant walks. After the fatal defeat of Jena, Cl 806), Bhicher, retreating with the wreck of the Prussian army, and hotly pursued by 3 French Generals, Bernadotte, Soult, and Murat, threw himself into this unfortunate town, in spite of the remonstrances of its senate and citi- zens, and thereby involved it in his own ruin. A bloody engagement, commenced outside the walls, but continued through the streets, end- ed in the expulsion of the Prus- sians, and the sacking and pillage of I^ubec for 3 days. The French army of 7.5, OOO men was long quartered tipon the town, to complete its ruin and misery. Until the French gained possession of Lubec, no Jews were tolerated within tlie town ; they were banished to the neighbouring village, Moisling, which they still occupy almost exclu- sively. Great trade is carried on in poose f])iilh for pens, at Lubec. Pen.ons going by steam to St. Pe- tfrshnrg must have their passports signed by the Russian Consul before they can secure a berth. As the depth of the Trave at Lubec is not sufficient for vessels of draught, the large steamers to St. Petersburg, Copenliigon, and Dobberan start from Trarenfltnde, about 10 miles oft", at the mouth of the Trave. Two small steamers have been built to convey passengers up and down the river, the distance by water being 18 miles, and the fare 2i marks = 3.<. 4d.; or the journey may be made by land over a road not very good, and across a ferry. The hire of a carriage, from Ijubec to Travemunde, is generally 5 marks. Trnvemunile {\- e. the Mouth of the Trave), the p )rl of Lubec, is a pretty, small bathing-place, much resorted to in summer. There are good inns, Stadt Lubec, St. Hamburg, with re- staurants attached to them. There are bathing-machines on the shore in the English fashion (called English bath coaches), and warm sea-baths, which cost 24 schillings. The voyage by steam-boats from Travemunde to St. Petersburg usually takes up 4 or 5 days. A vessel sets out once a week from the middle of May to the middle of October. A steamer goes every week to Co- penhagen, in about 20 hours, and another to Stockholm. ROUTE LVIII. HAMBURG TO DOBBERAN AND ROSTOCK. 22 German miles = 106 English miles, a journey of about ?> days: 1st to Lubec; 2nd to Wismar ; 3rd to Dobberan : this is not owing to the distance, but to the execrable state of the roads, which never fail to exercise a very irritating influence over both body and mind of the traveller. A preferable route, though less direct, is that from Hamburg to Ludwigslust (Route LXL), and thence by Schwerin, to Dobberan, See Route LVII. It is about .36 miles from Lubec to Wis- ow I l^ Grevismuhlen 2^ Wismar (Inn: Post-house) has 9700 inhabitants, and lies at the ex- tremity of a bay, which forms one of the best harbours in the Baltic. It is even said that it will be made the station of the Russian steamers instead of Lubec. 3 Neubuckow. 2 Dobberan. Inns: the Post-house ; — the Great Lodging-house (Grosse Logirhaus) will furnish good accom- mo\ Liebcnwerda. Inn : Weisses Ross, very good ; excellent sleeping quarters. \\ Elsterwcrda. About four miles further the Saxon frontier is crossed. 2i Grossenhayn. Inn: Lowe. A town of 5500 inliabitants. A little way on the left lies the castle of Moritzhurg, built by the Elector Maurice in the middle of a lake, with park and gardens adjoining. It was the residence and hunting-seat of several Saxon princes. It con- tains a complete set of the tapestries, copied from the Cartoons of Rapiiael, (only 7 of the original paintings exist now,) and some old furniture, also a collection of stag horns, trophies of the chase ; one pair has 66 branches. In coming from Dresden, the road to Moritzhurg branches off at Bondorf. 4 Dresden (Route LXXXVIL). ROUTE LXIV. nUSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBL'R- FELn, CASSEL, EISLEBEN AND HALLE. The road is macadamised nearly the whole way, and is traversed by a Schnellpost twice a week in 84 hours, or three days, and four nights. The distance is 83^ Pruss. miles = 389.J Eng. miles. The road to Berlin by I'aderborn, Seesen, and Brunswick, is shorter, but not macadamised all the way. (Route LXVIII.) Dusseldorf is described in p. 213. • Prussia, ROUTE LXIV. — DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN. 325 The road leaves on the right tlie old town of Gerresheim, which once contained a celebrated Nunnery for noble ladies. The fair Agnes of Mansfeldt eloped from this convent along witli Gebhard Tnichsess, Arch- bishop of Cologne. The church is a fine Gothic edifice, of the Xllth century, 2 Mittman. The valley of the Dussel is picturesque, enlivened also by large villages and manufactories. Near Mittman is the romantic ravine called Des Gestein, in vi-hich is a cavern named Neander's Hohle, from a poet, author of many hymns, who sought refuge in it from religious persecution, between 1640-60. 2 Ei.BERFELD. Inus : Kurpfalzcr Hof (Cour Electorale); — Zwt-ibrii- ker Hof; — Weiden Hof. This is one of the most important towns in the Prussian dominions, from its ex- tensive manufactories. It has a po- pulation of more than 32,000 inhabit- ants, and is joined to another town, 13armen. with 26,000 inhabitants. Its situation, in the pretty valley of the W upper, is picturesque, healthy, and advantageous to its commerce, but the town itself is dirty and not pre- possessing. It has rapidly risen to its actual extent and height of pros- perity within the present century. Its principal manufactures consist of cottons, thread, silk, and the dye called Turkey red, which is produced here of so excellent a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton yarn is actu- ally exported to a considerable extent from Glasgow and elsewhere, and is afterwards re-imported from Elber- fcld, dyed. In 1829, the aimual pro- duce of the manufactures here was valued at more than three millions sterling. Schnellposts go daily from hence to Cologne (Route LXVII.) and Dusseldorf. About 3.^ miles from Elberfcld is Ilonsdorf, a village founded in 1721, by one Elias Eller, the chief of a religious sect of very- peculiar tenets, called Sionites. They are distinguished by their industry and love of order, and now amount to 3000. The cross road leading to the place is rough, but lies through an agreeable country. Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a bridge, so that they seem to form but one town, both animated by the same spirit of industry. In 18:^0, a Catholic church was built here, a great part of the expense of con- structing it being defrayed by the voluntary contributions of the Pro- testants: an instance of toleration and harmony between the two religions, unhappily unknown in Great Britain. Barmen is a long straggling street, so nearly connected with the neigh- bouring towns and villages, that for nearly six miles our road scarcely ' emerges from among manufactories and human dwellings which line it on either side. At every step the country displays the most agreeable signs of industrious prosperity, — in- deed this portion of the Duchy of Berg may be looked on as one vast workshop. It is the most jjopulous district of Prussia ; the number of inhabitants is calculated at 8000 to the German square mile (25 English square miles. ) The view from the top I of the hill near Rittershausen, over I the beautiful and populous vale of I the^Viipper, is particularly pleasing. ' li Schwelm. Inn: Rlarkische Hof. An active little town of 3400 inhab. I The vale of P^nnepe swarms with life ( and industry. Villages occur at every few miles of road, chiefly busied in various manufactures of iron. On the right of the road near Voerde and Geodsberg is a large cavern in the , limestone, called Klutert. 2\ Hagcn. Inn : Konig von Preus- sen. A manufacturing town of 3500 inhabitants. Between this and Unna lie the coal mines, the chief source of prosperity to the surrounding district. The road makes a considerable bend to cross the Lenne, approaching the small town of Limburg, and the cha- teau of the Prince of Benlheim- Tecklenburg-Rheda, in a very pic- 326 ROUTE LXIV. — DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN. Scct. V. turesque situation. Nearer Iserlohn, at Griine, a colossal cross of iron is discernible. It was set up as a me- morial of the War of Liberation. 2J Iserlohn (Inn : Quinke's Hotel) — one of tlie most considerable manu- facturing towns in the province, with 6000 inhabitants : it may be regard- ed as the Birmingham of Prussia, where steam-engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c. are made. The coun- try around abounds in worksliops, forges, paper-mills, &c., is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined castles of antiquity, and romantic valleys and glens. Five miles from Menden, a small town whose inhabitants are chiefly workers in metal, nail-makers, &c., are two curiosities, the Sand- wich HiJhle, a cave containing fossil bones, and the Sea of Rocks (Felsen Meer). We now enter the ancient duchy of "Westphalia, the country of the red earth, over which, in former times, the jurisdiction of the mysteri- ous Vthin Gericht, or Secret Tribunal, extended. The national food of Westphalia is brown rye bread, described by Vol- taire as " certaine pierre dure, noire et gluante, compos^*e a ce qu'on pre- tend d'une espcce de seigle : "' it is found on the tables of rich and poor, and horses are fed on it, as well as men. 2\ Wimbern, hence to Werl, on the high road to Miinster and Pader- born, is only one German mile. The road crosses the Ruhr, and continues along its banks for many miles. 2^ Arnsberg. Inn : Konig von Preussen, good. A|town of 4000 inha- bitants, on an eminence half encircled by the Ruhr. There is an extensive view from the ruins of the Old Castle, in the court of which (Baunihof ), tlie judges of that which has been called the Secret Tribunal, used to as- semble for deliberation. The Holy Velim numbered in Westphalia, (which anciently comprehended the country between tlie Rliine, Weser, and Ems,) 100,000 Wissendcn or initiated. This ancient court of justice, now erroneously regarded as a sort of German inquisition, was in truth only a separate jurisdiction ; its meetings were held in public places, and in open day ; and its proceedings were neither secret nor tyrannical. The words Secret Tribunal are in fact a mistranslation of the words " Seperatum judicium." A Schnellpost goes from hence to JNIiinster. 2^ Meschede. 3 Brilon(Inn, Post) — isoneof the oldest towns in Germany, and lias SCOO inhabitants. The Great Parish CAi/rc/t was built, it is said, by Charle- magne, in 776. This stage lies over a lonely heath (Thurler heide), with scarcely a house in sight. 2 Bredelar, on the Diemel. Near Mussenhausen, the road quits the Prussian territory, to cross a nar- row strip of the little principality of Waldeck, and afterwards a portion of the Electorate of Hesse. Tiiese two states separate the Wesfphalian and Rhenish provinces of Prussia from the rest of her empire. 3 Arolsen. Inn: Waldecksher Hof. A small town of 1700 inhabitants; containing the palace of the Prince of Waldeck. A long avenue of oaks leads to it. Soon after leaving it, we pass out of Waldeck into the ter- ritory of Hesse Cassel. 3 Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse has a country-seat at Wil- helmslhal. 2^ Cassel. Inns: Konig von Preus- sen; — Romischer Kaiser. Cassel is described in (Route LXX. p. 339.) 2 Ilelsa. Near Almerode, the mount iMeissner is seen to the S. 2J Witzenhausen, on the Werra, 2500 inhabitants; the last station in Ilosse Cassel. 3 Ileiligenstadt. Inns: Freussisclier Hof. Cheap and comfortable. Deutsclic Haus. Has 4000 inhabitants ; it was formerly the ca]jital of the princi- pality of Eichsfcld, but now belongs Prussia, route LXIV. — dusseldorf to berlix. 327 to Prussia. Its Jesuits' College is converted into a gymnasium. 3 Wulfingerode. A hilly stage to 3 NoRDHArsF.K. Inns: Rcimisher Kaiser ; Berliner Hof. A flourishing town of 11,000 inhabitants, at the S. extremity of the Hartz mountains, in a country most fertile in corn. It has the most extensive distilleries in Ger- many. In the Church of St. lilazius are two paintings by Luke Cranach ; an Ecce Homo, and the Burial of the young man of Nain, painted to adorn the tomb of a friend of the painter, who has introduced among the mourn- ers, portraits of Luther and Melanc- thon. Wolf the philosopher was born here. There are many interesting points in the neighbourhood, such as the castles of Ilohcnstein, and Ebers- burg. The road from hence to Mag- deburg and the Hartz is described in Route LXXIV. Near Nordhausen begins the fer- tile valley called Goldener Aue, ■watered by the winding Helme. It extends to Rossbeben and Sangers- hausen, near which it falls into the Unstrut. At Kiffhausen, in the most beautiful part of it, are the remains of an Imperial castle, built probably by the Emperor Henry IV. It is fabled that tlie spirit of tiie Emperor Barbarossa still haunts its chambers, and some among the peasants and miners affirm they have seen him with his beard grown through the golden table at which he sits. 25 Rossla, on the Helme, 1200 inhabitants ; Count Stolberg has a chateau here. 2^ Sangershausen. Inns: DerTenne; — Der Goldene Lowe. In the Church of St. Ulrich is the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who vowed to build a church to St. Ulrich, provided he succeeded in jumping safely out of the window of his prison near Halle, and from this circumstance he obtained a nickname, and the saint a church. Near the town are mines of brown coal and copper. 2? EisLEBEX. Inn : Goldcnes Schiff. A town of 7000 inhabitants on the Bose, a small stream. It is only remarkable as the native place of Luther. The house in which he was born, 14S3, is not far from the gate leading to Halle, a few doors from the Post-office ; his portrait is placed over the entrance. The original build- ing was partly consumed by fire in 1689, but there is still enough of it left to give interest to it. It is now converted into a school for the gra- tuitous education of poor children, and contains the cap, cloak, and other relics of the great reformer. In St. Andrew's church is the pulpit from which he preached. Luther was the son of a poor miner, and the greater part of the inhabitants still follow the same occupation, working in the neighbouring copper-mines. The an- cient castle was the residence of the Counts of JNIansfield. — Luther died here 1 564. The road traverses an open country bare of wood, passing two small lakes ; the one on the right is salt, the other fresh. 2\ Langenbogen. There are brown coal-mines near this. 2 Halle. Inns: Stadt Ziirich, very good; — Der Kronprinz, also good. A town of 25,000 inhabitants, on the Saale, principally remarkable for its Univej-sity, founded in 1694, to which that of Wittenberg was transferred, 1815. The average numberof students at present is 1200. It is especially re- nowned as a school of Protestant theology, and numbers among its pro- fessors Tholluk and Gesenius, the two most eminent Hebrew scholars living. A new and handsome C'/Ji- versity building is now (1836) in progress. The town, though antiquated, has nothing pleasing in its appearance, and possesses little to tempt the tra- veller to prolong his stay. In the Market-place there is a singular iso- lated tower called the Red Toicer, and near it an old Gothic church of St. Mary. The Salt Springs have been known 328 R. LXV. COLOGNE to HANOVER ALTENBERG. ScCt. V. from very remote times. The labour- ers employed in them are a peculiar and distinct race, called Halloren, supposed to be the descendants of the Wends, who anciently peopled this country. They are said still to pre- serve the physiognomy, customs, and even costume of their ancestors. Some of the springs rise within the town, and are boiled there, but the Royal Salt Works (Salinen^ are situated ^vithout the walls on an island in the Saale. The brine is pumped up by a steam-engine, and is conveyed to them in pipes; it is strong enough to be fit at once for boiling ; the fuel used is the brown coal, which abounds in this neighbourhood. The annual produce is 220,000 cwt. of salt, valued at 125,000 dollars; it forms almost the sole article of commerce. The Orphan House ( Waisen haus), in the suburb of Glauca, called from its founder, who was a clergyman and professor of Halle, Frankes Insiitiit, is a liberal and munificent establishment. It embraces also schools for the edu- cation of cliildrcn of both sexes, and of various stations, though chiefly of the poorer classes, to the number of 2220 (in 1830); a Lahoratonj where medicinesare prepared and distributed, and a Printiiifi Office for Bibles, which are sold at a low price. The building is now ornamented with an admirable Statue in bronze of the Founder, by Ranch, raised to his memory by a public subscription, to which the king of Prussia largely contributed. Outside the walls, on the east side, is an elegant monument to the soldiery who died here of the wounds received in the battle of Leipsig, 1813. The old castle of Moiitzburff was reduced to a ruin during the 30 years' war. Carding thistles and carraways are largely cultivated in this neighbour- hood : it also furnishes the greater portioii of what are called Leipsig Larks, which are caught by the Hal- loren, and sent to Leipsig as dainties for the table. '1\ Brehna. J^ Bitterfield. Here we fall into the road from Leipsig to Berlin, (p. 319.) ROUTE LXV. COLOGNE TO HANOVER, BV MINDEK. 41^ Pruss. miles=193 Eng. miles. The road is macadamised ; the Schnellpost, from Cologne to Berlin, takes this route three time a week. The Rhine is crossed by the bridge of boats to Deutz, and the road con- tinues along its right bank as far as, 3 Muhlheim. 2 Strasserhof. About 1 2 miles from Cologne, and a mile from the post-house at Strasserhof, on the right of tlie road, lies the Abbey of Altenberg, in the midst of beech fo- rests, buried in the pretty retired valley of the Dlilin, and close to the margin of the rushing stream. The Church is a most beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, finished 1255. The in- terior is remarkable for its height and graceful proportions. The windows include the most beautiful painted glass; and remains of fresco painting may be traced on its walls. The high altar, richly ornamented with carvings, the pulpit, and numerous curious mo- numents of monks and abbots, knights and noble ladies, are in a tolerably perfect state — among them are se- veral of the counts of Altena, and the counts and dukes of Berg, an ancient family allied to the reigning house of Brandenberg. The tracery of the windows displays excessive richness and variety. It has been asserted that Altenberg was designed by the same artist who built Cologne : judging from the difference of style, this seems unlikely. The adjacent conventual buildings, whose original tenants, the monks, have not been displaced longer tlian 40 years, are probably as old as 1214; they are turned into a manu- factory of Prussian blue ; and a fire, which originated in them in 1815, re- duced the church to a state of ap- |)roaching ruin. It was already in the first stage of decay, when, in 1 83G, the Prussia. route LXV. — cologne to haxover. 329 Crown Prince of Prussia took it under liis protection ; and, thanks to his li- berality and good taste, this exquisite relic of Gothic architecture has been skilfully repaired and restored. No traveller should pass this road with- out turning aside to visit Altenberg. One of the conventual buildings is converted into a humble Gasthaus, where eggs, bread and butter, and wine, may be procured. There is no carriage road from Strasserhof to the Abbey. li Wermelskirchen. 1 Lennepp. Inn : Berlinerhof. A town of .5000 inhabitants, with manu- factories of fine cloth. \\ Schwelm. 1 2i Hagen. J-P--^-^- 4i Unna. Inn : Kiinig von Preus- sen. Near the town are the very ex- tensive salt works, supplied by brine springs, and the newly opened batlis of K'oning shorn. 2 Werl. Here are more salt works, and a miraculous image of the Virgin, to which many thousand pilgrims re- pair annually. 2J Soest. Inn : Stadt London. An antiquated walled town, with 7600 in- habitants. It contains three very curious old churches — the Dom, a Byzantine edifice; the /f7ese/i-Kirchc, a splendid specimen of German point- ed Gothic ; and Pe^ri'-Kirche, in the Byzantine, or round-arched style. About a mile off. on the left of the road, are the salt-works and baths of Sassendorf. 2\ Erwitte. Here the road to Pa- derborn (Route LX VI II.) branches oflFfrom that to Hanover. 1 Lippstadt. Inns : bey Kbppel- man ; bey Lahr. A dilapidated town, with about 3000 inhabitants, belong- ing partly to Prussia, partly to tlie Prince of Lippe Dctmold. 2^ AViedenbruck, a wild road, through what is called the " Sea of Rocks." \\ Gutersloh. 2\ Bielefeld. Inn: DeutscheHaus; the centre of the Westplialian linen trade ; a town of 6000 inhabitants. Its fine old castle is turned into a prison. The walks around the town are pretty. It is supposed that Herman ( Ar- minius) fought the great battle against the Romans (Clades Varana) some- where on the banks of the Senne ; and the numerous tumuli on its banks, with the urns and other funeral remains found in and about them, confirm the belief. 2 Herford. Inns : Preussischer Hof ; Stadt Berlin. On the Werra ; 6700 inhabitants. At Enger, 5 miles to the east, is shown the tomb of Wittekind, chief of the Saxons. This is a hilly stage to 2 Rehme. Inn -. Post. Here are considerable salt-works , the salt water is converted into brine, fit for boiling, by being allowed to trickle over stacks of faggots. Within about 2 miles of Minden, the road traverses the celebrated pass, called Porta Westphalica. It is a rent in the chain of moimtains called Wiehen- Gebirge, through which the river Weser finds a passage to tl.e sea. The hills on either side of this breach, the " door-posts," as it were of the gates, are called Jacobsberg and \Vittekindsberg; the last is named from a castle of the Saxon hero which once stood on it, and is now replaced by a pillar to his me- mory. The view from their tops is very extensive ; and the ravine en- closed between them, through which the road passes, is highly picturesque. 2 Minden. Inn : Stadt London. A strong fortress, belonging to Prus- sia, with 8000 inhabitants, including garrison. It was the residence of several early German Emperors, and many diets were held here. The Cathedral is a fine old building. To the north of the town, around the village of Todtenhausen, lies the field of the Battk of Mimkn, gained by Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick, over the French in 1759. It was the fault of I^ord George Sackvillw, the 330 ROL'TE LXVII. COLOGNE TO BERLIN. SeCt. V. English commander, tbat the victory was not more complete. We quit INIinden by the stone bridge over the Weser, 600 feet long, built in 1518, and enter the domains of Lippe Schauenburg, a pretty country. li Buckeberg, chief town of the little principality of Schauenburg Lippe, with 2000 inhabitants. The prince resides in a large and ugly Pcdace. Beyond this, the road to Berlin separates from that to Hanover. At 1^ Stadthagen : the handsome mausoleum of Prince Ernest, at- tached to the church, deserves notice. 2.\ Nenndorf, a watering-place be- longing to the Elector of Hesse, who has a Chateau here. Strangers are accommodated in the three bath- houses, and there is a table-d'hote, daily, during the season, in the Ar- kaden Saal. The spring waters are cold and sulphureous, and are used for drinking as mcU as baths. 3J Hanoveb. (Route LXXI.) ROUTE LXVr. COLOGNE TO BERLIN, BY MIKDEX. R3| Pruss. miles = 391^ Eng. miles. The same as the preceding route, as far as Buckeburg, 34 Pruss. miles. 2i Oldendorf, in the territory of the Elector of Hesse- Cassel. 2^ Hohnsen, in Hanover. 3 Elxe. 2j Hildesheim. Inn : H. d'Angle- terre ; Goldener Engel. An ancient town, with 13,000 inhabitants, and some manufactures. The Cathedral is a remarkable building ; its bronze gates are a cu- rious specimen of art of the beginning of tiie Xlth century; the subject of the has reliefs is supposed to be the Fii"st and Second Adam. (See St. Paul's Epistles.) It contains an Irmcn Saule, a pillar of greenish stone, supposed to have been an idol of the Pagan Saxons. Tlie picture gallery of Count Stolberg, at Soder, 9 miles distant, may be visited from hence. It has few works of first-rate excellence. 2i Wartjenstadt. 2A Othfresen, in Hanover, lies only 8 miles N. of Goslar, in the Hartz (Route LXXIII.). 2\ Rimbeck, in Prussia, is almost united with the small town of Horn- burg. V/e cross the Use at Oster- wick, a town of 3-100 inhabitants. 2\ Zilly. 2^ Halberstadt. Inn : Hotel von Preussen,good : a city of 18,000 inha- bitants, on an arm of the Holzemme. The Cathedral, Bom, exhibits the ar- chitecture of different periods, from the Xllth to the XVIth century, and is a very remarkable Gothic edi- fice. The bishop's throne, rich in pointed ornaments, a fine window over the altar, the monument of the Margrave Frederick of Brandenburg, and an altar-piece by John Raphon von Einbacli, deserve notice. The church of Unser Licbe Frau (our Lady), in the Byzantine style of ar- chitecture, is very ancient, finished in 1005, but no longer used as a place of worship. Halberstadt contains one of those rude antique statues, called Jiolandsaule (see p. 302.), a handsome JMansloit-house, and a Theatre. The best view of the town is from the But- terburg. An excursion may be con- veniently made from hence to the Rosstrappe, in the Hartz (Route LXXIII.). Sj Egeln. Inn : Die Tonne. 3^ Magdeburg (Route LX VIII.). where the road from hence to Berlin, 20 German miles, is also described. ROUTE LXVIL COLOGNE TO ELBERFELU, BY SOLINGEK. Sclmellposts twice a day. Dis- tance 6\ Pruss. miles = 30 Eng. miles. ^ jMiihlheim. i^ Opladen. ^ Langenfeld. 1| Soliiipoi (Inns: Bairischer Ilof ; — Stadt Kiinigsberg) — a town of 4000 inhabitants ; famous for its extensive manufacture of sword, Prussia, route LXVIII. — cologne to Berlin. 331 blades, foils, scissors, and other arti- cles of cutlery, and iron- ware. There is nothing remarkable in the town itself beyond its active industry. 1 ^ £lb£kf£ld, in p. 325. There are few districts in Europe at present, which exceed in manufac- turing enterprise, wealth, and popu- lation, that part of the Rhenish pro- vinces of Prussia which anciently composed the Duchy of Berg. It may be nearly included within a tri- angle drawn from Cologne, along the Rhine to the mouth of the Ruhr, and from these two points to Hagen. The valleys of the Wiipper, and of the streams pouring into it, are scenes of the most active and intelligent industry, and their manufactures of cotton, iron, cutlery, and brass, nearly equal to those of England, while they surpass them in cheapness. The prosperity of the country is visible at every step : coal, the origin of all manufacturing prosperity, is found in abundance, water-power is fur- nished by the numerous streams, steam-engines are being erected every where, and the hills are covered with habitations even up to their summits. ROUTE LXVIII. COLOGXE TO BERLIN', BY PADERBORN, BUUSSWICK, AND SIAGDEBL'UG. 72 i Pruss. m. 2^ Strasserhof 2i Lennepp 1 \ Schwelm 2i Hagen 2 Brunnig- bausen o\ Werl 2 Soest 2| Erwitte A = 340^ Eng. lish. The whole road is mac- adamised, ex- cept four stages betweenBruns- wick and 3Iag- deburg. — A Schnellpost takes this route from Berlin to Cologne twice a- week. As far as Erwitte, the route is the same y as R. LXV. Scarcely a house is passed on this stage as far as 1^ Gesecke. The road passes on the left the Saueiche (pig's-oak), and on the left the Slelper Lime. 1 Salzkotten : Preussens Inn : a town of loOO inhabitants, with con- siderable salt-works. 1 i Paderborn : Inns, Post ; — H, de Prusse : — A very ancient and gloomy town of 6400 inhabitants, formerly capital of an ecclesiastical principality, and seat of a University, now a Catholic Bishop's See. The Cathedral, a Gothic edifice, built 1010, contains the silver gilt shrine of St. Liborius, and numerous monuments of former Bishops, with much carving and rich ornamental details. Below it runs the stream of the Pader, out of five sources, in sufficient copiousness to be able to turn a mill at the distance of a few yards. The ground on which the town stands teems with springs of water, bursting forth in the very streets ; it is said there are not less than 300 in and about it. The Uni- versity is now replaced by a Catholic Seminary. 2| Driburg : Inns,Madame Kothe's Hotel, in the town; Deutsches Haus, at the Wells, both good. The town contains 2000 inhabitants. A little to the east of it, on the road to H ox- ter, beneath the old castle of Yburg, lie the Baths, supplied by mineral springs rising on the spot. They are annually frequented by some hundred visiters. A covered gallery, 250 long, serves as a promenade in bad weather. A new macadamised road leads over the Bergstiege to 2 Braekel : Inns, Berliner Hof ;— Deutsches Haus : — situated at the junction of the Brucht and Nethe, has a population of 2700. 2\ Hijxter: Inns, Berliner Hof: — Stadt Bremen. The last town in Prussian Westphalia ; it lies on the Weser, and has 3000 inhabitants. Close at hand is the suppressed Be- 332 ROUTE LXVIII BRUNSWICK. Sect. V. nedictine Abbey of Corvei (Corveia), one of the most ancient ecclesiasti- cal establishments in Germany ; it Mas the centre from wiiich the civilis- ation of the district jiroceeded ; its church is still a fine edifice. The castle of Braunsberg, once esteemed the strongest in Germany, now in ruins, is also in this neighbourhood. If Holzminden in Brunswick. 2i Eschershausen, 21 Muhlenbeck. lA Gandersheim. 1| Seesen • Steigerthal's Inn is the best : the town has 2000 inhabitants. If Lutter, where Tilly gained a victory over the Protestants under Christian of Denmark, so decisive that he received for it the thanks of the Holy See. Lutter Salzgifterand Bein- umlie within the Hanoverian territory. 'i\ Immendorf. 2 Brunswick (German Braun- schweig), Inns, H. d'Angleterre ; — Das Deutsche Haus. The capital of the Duchy and re- sidence of the Dukeof Brunswick, is a very ancient town on the Ocker, with 35,000 inhabitants. It is no longer fortified, but surrounded by planta- tions and walks which occupy the site of the former ramparts. The New Palace or Schloss is a magnificent and tasteful building, supplying the place of that called Graue Ilof, which was burnt in 1830 by the mob, at the instigation, it Is supposed, of some of the citizens, who have been compelled to replace it by a far more costly and splendid edifice than tlic old one, so that when it is finished their duke will be more sumptuously lodged than the Sove- reign of Great Britain. It is a building reflecting the highest credit on its architect, for the splendour and good taste both of its interior and exterior. Permission to see it may be obtained gratis. The Museum, in the building called Zeughaus (Arsenal) near the Cathe- dral, consists of, 1. A gallery of ^)ain<- iiiffs, containing many works of high merit, particularly two Jati Steens, the best pictures by that artist, probably, existing; one represents a Marriage Contract. Rembrandt ; two excellent portraits in his clear manner, of Gro- tius and his wife. — Giorgine; Adam and Eve, a very good picture, though the master is perhapsincorrectly assign- ed to it. It is more probably a work of Palma Vecchio. — Steenwyk ; the De- liverance of St. Peter, a large picture ; a fine Guido; a portrait of Ilaphael, said to be by himself. 160 Pictures out of this collection were thought worthy of being trans- ported to Paris by the French. The greater part were originally in the gallery at Salzdalum. 2. A collection of Natural History of second-rate excellence : it includes some very perfect fossil bones of the Cave Bear from the Hartz. 3. Classical Antiquities. Statues, bronzes, &c., from Greece and Italy. The famous Mantuan Vase of Onyx was carried away by the former Duke Charles. 4. Antiquities and Works of Art of more recent times. At the head of them must be placed an exquisite carving in steatite by Alhtrt Durer, representing an Ecce Homo. It is a masterpiece of its kind. Some of the figures are detached and finished all round, and in one or two instances, where their backs are turned outwards, it will be found that the faces are made out with the utmost delicacy and beauty, though there is barely room to pass the blade of a knife behind them, a fact which increases our admiration of the dexterity of tlie artist. There are many other valuable objects of art and vertii ; rich silver plate, carvings in ivory, amber, wood, and a collection of Majolica, amount- ing to 1000 pieces, perhaps the finest in Europe. The Museum is open to the i)ubHc Tuesday and Sunday, at other times admittance can only be obtainei?ior of Germany to elect) and seat of the government. The old town lies low down, close to tlie river banks, and consists of narrow and dirty streets, while the new part, built upon an elevation formerly oc- cupied by a fortress, is airy and agreeable. In the Friedrichs Platz, the largest square in any German town, stands the Elector's Palace, a building of no very imposing ap- pearance, surpassed indeed by the liotels of several bankers in Frank- fort. Next to it is the Museum, the handsomest building in Cassel ; be- yond it are the government offices. One side of the square, on the brow of the hill, is very judiciously left open, to admit the really beautiful view of the valley and windings of the Fulda. On this side stands a Jight gateway, leading to the Pithlic Garden (Augarten.) In the middle of the square is placed the statue of the Elector Frederick, after whom it is named. To this prince Cassel owes its principal embellishments and col- lections of art, &c. &c. His wealth was acquired by trafficking in the lives of his sidijects, wliom lie lent to the King of Great Britain to tight his battles in Ameica and else- where: Hessian troops were employed against the Pretender in Scotland. The Museum includes, 1. A Li- hrary of 90,000 volumes, useful, but not calculated to interest a passing traveller. 2. A Cabinet of Curiosities in art and natiu-c. One room is nearly tilled ^^ith watches and clock- work, from the earliest invented watches inade at Nuremberg, shaped like eggs, and wound up with a piece of catgut, instead of a chain, to the most perfect chronometers. One of the Electors was an amateur ■watchmaker, and several sjiecimens of his work are here preserved. Here are also a great variety of agates from the mines near Marburg, in the Elec- tor's dominions, now abandoned ; one single mass is formed into a stall' 3 or 1 feet long. Among many elabo- rate carvings in wood and ivory is one attributed to Albert Durer. An ena- melled dagger hilt is believed to be by Benvenuto Cellini, Many cases are entirely filled with objects of art and virtu, in amber, ivory, j)recious stones, gold, and silver plate. Anti- quities. These were chiefly brought from Ilerculaneum. A little bronze statue of Victory, known by casts all over Eiu'ope, is tlie gem of the col- lection ; an exquisitely shaped bronze vase also merits notice. Many of the remains are interesting, from having been found in Germany or Hesse Ca?.sel itself: a Roman Ear/le of the XXIst Legion, and a helmet, were dug np at Wiesbaden. The coins, medals, and cameos are well arranged for general inspection, under glass cases. Antique Statues. A Minerva, a bas-relief of the Triumph of Bac- chus, and a bronze head of JNIars, are the best ; they were purchased from the Pope for 40,000 dollars. Among modern works are sevaral busts, by Canova, of Napoleon, of his son when a child five years old, 'and of his family. The Cork Models of ancient buildings are good. I'he Collection of Natural History is not very extensive or excellent. Besides the usual quantity of stuffed birds and quadrupeds, there are spe- cimens of the woods of 500 different European trees, made xip in the form of a library; each specimen has the shape of a volume ; the back is formed of the bark ; the sides, of the perfect wood ; the fop, of the young wood, with narrow rings ; the bottom, of old wood, with rings wider apart. When the volume is' opened, it is foimd to be a little box containing the flower, seed, fruit, and leaves of the tree, either dried or imitated in wax. A trunk of a laurel which grew in the orangery iiere, .58 feet high 1 and 2 feet diameter, is another bo- I tanical curiosity. Among the fossils j are two specimens of the gigantic i Chania shell dug up by the side of Prussia, route LXX. — cassel ; — wilhelmshohe. 341 the road to Frankfort ; tliis shell exists at present only in tropical seas. The museum is shown by the Di- rector, who receives a fee of two dollars, when the party is numerous ; 8 or 10 gute groschens are enough from each person. The Picture Gallery, in the build- ing, called the Bclvidere, contains some very good pictures; but it is not always accessible, as an appoint- ment must be made the day previous to the visit, with the Custode, who must show it in person, and receives a fee of 3 dollars from a party. The best pictures are of the Dutch school, viz. there are some excellent portraits by Rembrandt (particularly fine), Van- dyke, and Rubens, and a good piece by Terburg. Many of the best pictures, however, have been removed to the Hermitage, St. Petersburg. A little below the Friedrichs Platz may be seen the foundation and first story of a vast Palace, called Kat- tenburg, begun 1820, by a former Elector, and stopped by his death the year following its commencement. The Marble Bath, in the Auparten, is a sumptuous piece of extravagance. Though it really contains a bath, this was introduced merely as a pretext for spending money and employing marble, with which its walls are covered. It is stocked with statues and bas-reliefs, by Mon- not, an artist of the last century, ■whose works, deficient in elevation and purity, have been termed the " Dutch School" of sculpture. Near this building is tlie Orunfierij. The Theatre, at the corner of the Fried- richs Platz, is generally open four times a week ; the Opera is tolerably good. Cassel and its rulers afforded an asylum to the fugitive Flemish Pro- testants driven from their country by the persecutions imder Alva; and afterwards to the French Huguenots, exiled by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. These colonists contri- buted much to the wealth and pros- perity of the town by their industry, as well as to its extent One part of it is still called, after them, the French quarter. Cassel lies on the high road from Cologne and Dusseldorf to Berlin. (Route LXIV.) Wilhelmshohe. No one should quit Cassel without visiting the fa- mous gardens of "Willielmshohe, the German Versailles. The Elector's summer palace, within them , is only three miles from Cassel, but they ex- tend behind it to the top of a high hill, which is a good hour's walk in addition. Thursday, (? Wednesday), and Sunday, are the best days for going thither, as the water-works then play, generally between three and four in the afternoon. A day may be agreeably spent here in ex- ploring the fine views and natural beauties of the spot, setting aside its artificial marvels ; and there is a good Inn close to the palace, to accommo- date visiters. A straight avenue of limes leads from the Wilhelmshohe Gate of Cas- sel, where carriages stand for hire to convey passengers directly to the palace.(?^ On the right on quitting the town, is a huge edifice built by Jerome Buonaparte while king of Westphalia, as a barrack, now turned into a manufactory and poor-house. The vista is terminated by the figure of the Colossal Hercules on the top of the hill behind Wilhelmshiihe. The Palace lies at the foot of the hill ; at tl-.e side of it stands the Theatre, built by king Jerome, in which he used himself to act ; it is now turned into a ball-room. Behind it are the Conservatories, and the Fountain, the highest in Europe, which throws up a jet of water, \2 inches in diameter, nearly 200 feet. It is supplied from reservoirs 30J feet higher up the hill. At the back of the pond out of which it rise,, is an artificial waterfall descending from a tall aqueduct. Both it an' I Q 3 342 ROUTE LXXI. — CASSEL TO HANOVEU. ScCt. V. the Fountain remain inactive and empty, except on Sundaj's and Thurs- days wliile tlie Elector is residing on the spot. Tlieir performances do not continue more than fifty minutes. The more ancient Cascade of the Carlnhurp has fallen somewhat out of repair. It has a vast flight of stone steps, leading up to the Colossal statue ; over which a stream of water is at times admitted to fall; a carriage road leads l)y the side of this gigantic staircase, in zigzags, to the very top of the hill. Upon a sort of landing- place or platform, half way up the stairs, is a rude representation of the Giant Enceladus, lying on his back, with a mountain of rocks heaped on his breast ; it was the intention of the artist who formed him, that he should spout from his mouth a jet of water 50 feet high ; this is now dried up. The staircase of this chateau d'Eau (imitated, it is said, from that in the villa d'Este,) is surmounted by a building which, in spite of the solidity of its masonry, now requires props to support it. On its roof rises an obelisk serving as a pedestal to the Colossal Hercules, 31 feet high, of beaten copper. It is possible to mount up into the figure ; eight persons, it is said, can stand at one time in the hollow of the club, and, out of a little window formed in it, enjoy a prospect extending nearly as far as the Broc- ken. But the delightful view can be enjoyed from the top of the hill without so much trouble. The aqua- tic staircase, and tlie octagon Temple of the Winds, as it is called, on its summit, with the statue, and other extravagances connected with it, are reported to have employed 2000 men for 14 years. When their la- bours were completed, the cost was found to be so enormous, that the acounts were burnt, to destroy all record of it. In descending, a visit may be paid to the LiJu-enherg, a toy -castle, built to imitate a stronghold of tlie middle ages, with drawbridges, battlements, towers, and ditches. Among the rusty suits in its armouri/f is one which belonged to the Great Conde ; there is also a very curious collection of drinking-glasses, and a library filled with Romances alone. The Elector who built this castle is buried in the chapel. Those who have no taste for tlie follies above enumerated, will at least be gratified with the charming and various prospects from the slopes of the Lbwenberg, and its agreeable gardens and pleasure- grounds. ROUTE LXXI. CASSEL TO HAKOVER, BY PVRMONT. 20i Prussian miles = 96 English miles. This roal is now macadamised nearly all the way ; but as far as Pyr- mont, ] 1^ German miles, it is only a post-road, not traversed by Schnell- posts. The journey to Pyrmont will take up 16 hours, and thence to Ha- nover 9 hours, posting. 3 Hof Geismar. A town of 3200 inhabitants, fa- mous for its warm chalybeate springs, much frequented in summer. The Bath-houses lie in a valley about 1^ mile off. The best are the Fiiediichs- bad and Wilhelmsbad. Strangers must apply for lodgings to the Burg- graf, who resides in the long allde. The usual amusements of dancing, music, and gambling are to be found here: there are pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and at a short dis- tance a chateau of the Elector's, called Schcinberg, with an old ruined castle near it. 2^ Karlshafen — (a tolerable Inn) — is beautifully situated on the Weser ; 1 200 inhabitants. From this to Hiix- ter the road runs by the side of the Weser, and witliin the I'russian terri- tority, nearly as far as Pyrmont. The banks of the Weser are picturesque, without being grand ; the scenery- has been compared with that of the Wye, and abounds in finely wooded Py-ussia. route LXXI. — cassel to haxover. hills often descending to the water's edge. 1 Beverungen. 1.^ Hiixter. Inns: Berliner Hof; Stadt Bremen. A manufacturing town on the left bank of the Weser, with 3200 inliabitants. It lies on the high road from Cologne to Berlin. Route LiXVIII. Near it is the very ancient suppressed Abbey of Corvei, with a richly ornamented Church, and the Castle of Braunsberg. 3^ Pyr.mont. Inns : As in most watering-places, the greater part of the buildings are designed for the reception of visiters; the principal Inns are, Das Flirstlichc Gasthaus (the Princely Inn), containing 200 apartments; the Hotel kept l)y Xot- ting ; Stadt Bremen : at all of these, and at the caffee-haus, in which are situated the gaming-tables, there is a daily table d'hote during the season. Pyrmont is decidedly one of the oldest watering-places in Europe ; it was frequented by Charlemagne. Its mineral waters rose so high in repute, that in 1556, 10,000 visiters collected here to use them ; and as there was no accommodation for such a number in the town, a camp was formed on the outside of it, where they spent a quarter of a year under tents. It now belongs to the Prince of Waldeck, who has a Palace here, in which he resides in the season. He derives from this small town of 1800 inhabitants, annually 1G0,000 dollars, and his total revenue is not more than 250,000. The concourse of visiters, however, has much fallen ofTof late, though the Duke of Cam- bridge and other reigning princes often repair hither, and the company is very aristocratic : it has indeed the reputation of being the most expen- sive and exclusive watering-place in Germany. The principal street, in which are all the chief buildings, is lined with a double row of limes, and is called the Grosse Allee : it forms a shady walk, frequented at all times of the 343 day, and is the morning promenade for those who drink the waters ; at that time a band of music plays for their entertainment. There are se- veral other avenues in the town. Twelve different mineral springs rise in and about the town. The Trinhqiielle is the one most in repute ; its water is chalybeate, possessing va- luable medicinal properties. 300^000 bottles of it are exported annually. It produces an exhilarating or even intoxicating effect, when several glasses are taken together; it is highly im- pregnated with carbonic acid gas, and effervesces like champaigne. The Well-liouse, above the Trink- quelle, is an octagonal building sur- mounted by a clock tower. The Augenhrunnen is said to be good for sore eyes. The principal baths are das Neue Badhaus, and das Badhaus fiir Eisenbdder (for chalybeate baths). There are ot'icr springs here of saline and acidulous water. One of the curiosities of the place is the Gasgrotto, or Dunst Hiihle, an artificial cavity hollowed out of the rock, from which rise noxious vapours similar to those of the Grotto del Cane in Italy. A person ap- proaching it without being aware of their nature, might be seriously in jured; it is therefore enclosed. A stream of carbonic acid gas is con- stantly issuing from fissures in the sandstone (bunter sandstein), and in particular states of the atmosphere forms a stratum of suffocating va- pour, which lies on the surface of the ground. It sometimes stands so high that children, and even adults stooping down to draw water from the springs, become sensibly affected by it, perceiving a prickling in the nose and a smarting in the eyes. Though the vapour is not so poison- ous as that of the Grotto del Cane, it is fatal to animal life after long exposure to it. A rabbit is killed by it in 8 or 10 minutes; a cat dies after 15. There is a T/ieatre here, two Ball- Q 4 3U ROUTE LXXI. — CASSEL TO HANOVER. Sect. V. rooms, and numerous tables for rouge et noir, hazard, &c. Among the wooded liills around are many pleasant walks. The A'o- iiigshcrri was the favourite resort of Frederick tlie Great, who patronised Pyrmont. The ruined castle of Sc/iell Pi/rmoiit is another excursion. The Bomhvrg is worth a visit, on account of its view : it is accessible for carri- ages. Some antiquaries have placed the " Saltiis Tentohurgicus,'^ the fo- rest in wiiich the Roman legions under Varus were defeated by Hermann (Annenius), between Pyrmont and Detmold. Herman's Castle is said to have stood on tiie Herman shcrg, 5 miles from Pyrmont. 3 Hameln, (Inn: Sonne,) a Ha- noverian town of 5000 inliabitants, on the Weser. It was once a strong fort- ress, and the Bastille of Hanover, but the French blew up its works. 2^ Springe. 3^ IIaxover (Germ. Hannover). Inns: British Hotel; Rbmishc Kai- ser; Deutsche Haus; H. de Ha- nover ; H. de Strelitz. The capital of the kingdom of Hanover is situated on a small stream called the Leine, and has 27,500 inhabitants. It does not make an imposing appearance at a distance, and within it is somewhat dull, and does not contain much to interest a stranger : nor are its trade and manufactures of great importance. Recent improvements however in its streets and lioiises, and the permanent resilience of the Court since 11 Werneuchen. Sii Neustadt Eberswald. Inns : Sonne ; — Scliwan. One of the most flourishing and improving small ma- nufacturing towns in Prussia ; it has 3500 inhabitants, and lies on the Finow, a stream wiiich is here con- nected by a canal with the Oder on one side, and t!ie Havel on tiie other. The manufactory of cutlery establislicd here to rival that of Siieffield, failed in 1834, and was broken up, after losing 200,000 dollars. There are vei-y ex- tensive paper-mills near this. In the next stage, the sequestered Cistercian Abbey Chorin, now a Go- vernment building, and several small lakes are passed. 3J Angcrmiinde, on a lake called the Munde, has 3000 inhabitants. A macadamised road goes from hence to Prenzlow. Our road reaches the banks of the Oder at — 25 Schwedt. Inn : Deutsches Ilaus. A town of 4600 inhabitants, many of them arc descendants of French emigrants, and a j)ortion are Jews. The Royal Palace was origi- nally the residence of a branch of the family of Markgravcsof IJrandcnburg, now extinct. Their sunnner palace Montplaisir lies at the termination of an avenue two miles from the town. One of the Markgraves and his wife Pi-ussia, ROUTE LXXV. BERLIN TO STETTIN. 357 are buried in granite coffins in the French Church. The Oder is here split into two branches ; that which passes close to Schwedt is called the Miilitz; there is a bridge over it. The road continues along its left bank, over a heath, and enters the ancient province of Pome- rnnia before reaching '■2\ Garz. Inn : Schwarzer Adler. On approaching Stettin, a good view is obtained of it, and of tlie lake of Danim, formed by tlie Oder spread- ing out into a broad sheet of water behind it. The road is commanded by the guns of Fort Preussen at the entrance into 4 Stettin. Inns: H. de Prusse, in the Louisen Strassc ; — Drei Kronen. This town, the capital of Pomerania, lies upon the left bank of the Oder, but is connected by bridges with the suburb Lastadie on the right bank. It has S2,000 inhabitants, including the garrison, and is remarkable as a strong fortress and place of con- j siderable commerce, being the outlet for the manufactures of Silesia con- veyed down the Oder from Frank- fort and I'reslau ; and the depot for foreign goods required to supply that province as well as the metropolis of Prussia. In 1834, 814 vessels en- tered its port, and 842 cleared out. The Churches : tlie Schloss Kirche contains the tombs of the old Dukes of Pomerania. The Church of St. Piter and Paul is the oldest in the town. From the tower of St. Jacobi, built 1187, there is a tine view of the city and the river. The Schloss, built 1577, is now converted into go- vernment offices. The Rathhaus dates from 1 245. In the Konigs- platz is a marble statue of Frederick the Great, by Schadow. In the Marien- platz is the iVeu- Gymnasium, to which an observatory, library, and museum are attached. Two empresses of Russia were born here : Catherine the Great, and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the Emperor Paul. Tiicre is a Theatre here. The chief Promenade is the Plantage, outside the Anclam Gate. An English Consul resides at Stettin. The Oder is here divided into four branches. In order to reach the town and fortress of Alt Damm, on the right bank, the road is conducted along a Dam of masonry ^^ miles long, over three long and twenty shorter bridges. A capital macadamised post-road is just finished from Stettin to Danzig by Ciislin. The Oder, after flowing past Stet- tin, discharges itself into a large lake called the Haff; this again commu- nicates with the Baltic by three mouths, which form the two large is- lands, Usedom, on which lies Swine- miinde, and WoUin. A Steam-boat runs three times a week in summer, in 6 or 8 hours, be- tween Stettin and Stcinemiinde. Inns: that kept by Olthoff; — Deutsclies Haus; — Konig von Preussen. This town, of 3500 in- habitants, has latterly acquired im- portance from the improvements made in its habour, wliicli have rendered it the outport of Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily very shallow, but extensive works have been erected to remedy this defect, and it is now ca- pable of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 feet water to unload their cargoes, wiiicb are transported to Stettin inligiiters. Swinemiindestands on the shores of the Baltic, upon an island between it and the salt lake called Stcttiner Hati", separated from tlie main land Ly the Swine and other mouths or channels through which the Oder empties itself into the sea. .About H niile from the town, and separated from it by a wood, lie the Sea Baths of Swinemiinde, consisting of a Bath-house and an Assembly- room (Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is a daily table d'hote dinner at one. Visiters usually lodge at the Inns in the town. Distinct spots, separated by con- siderable intervals, are marked out on the sea-shore as bathing-places for 358 ROUTE LXXVI. THE ISLAND OF RUGEN. SeCt. VI. ladies and gentlemen. At the one extremity men are allowed to bathe without bathing-machines or covered cabinets ; at the opposite end the fe- males enjoy the same privileges, and between these remote spots are ranged bathing-machines for either sex. Jomsburg, the capital of a Pagan republic, and described l)y historians as the greatest city of Europe in the 11th century, stood on an island at the mouth of the Oder. Its exact site is not determined. It was upon this island of Usedom, on the 24th of June, 1630, that the Champion of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, landed with an army of 1 7,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the'shore, he fell on his knees, and after a short prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a spade with his own hand to show them the example. Wlien tidings of this event were brought to the Em- peror Ferdinand, he made light of the matter, sarcastically terming the Swedish leader, " a snow-king, who would melt as the summer drew near, and as he advanced towards a more southern climate." The following year 6000 English volunteers (among ■whom must have been Dugald Dal- getty) arrived on this spot to reinforce Gustavus. In the course of the summer, a Steam-hoat goes once a week (on Sa- turday) to the baths of Putbus in the Island of Riigen, from Swinemiinde, returning on the jMonday following. (Route LXXVI.) ROUTE LXXVI. THE ISLAND OP EUGEN — STRALSUND XO THE BATHS OF PUTBUS, AND BERGEN. RUgen, the largest island belonging to Germany, is situated in the Baltic, separated only by a narrow strait from Prussian Pomerania, in which pro- vince it is included. It abounds in romantic scenery, on accoimt of which, and of the advantages of sea-bathing which it afibrds, it is much frequented in summer by visiters from all parts of Northern Germany. It may be termed a German Isle of Wight, and indeed bears some resemblance to the English Island in the conformation of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it is better wooded, and is furtlier distin- guished by the narrow bays or biglits which penetrate far inland. The best mode of approaching it is by the steamer, which goes in summer from Swinemiinde to Putbus, every Saturday, returning on Monday. There is an excellent carriage road from Stettin, by Anclam, and along the shore of the Baltic, to Greifswald and Stralsund. The road from Ros- tock to Stralsund is very bad indeed, not yet macadamised ; thus the ap- proach to the Island from the W. is difficult in a carriage, and disagreeable. There are t«-o Ferries across the Strait separating Riigen from the mainland : — 1. From Stahlbrode, about 12 miles W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer Flihre. At Glewitz the landing place, (2^ German miles), conveyances may usually be hired to Putbus, 2|- German miles by Garz. 2. From Stralsund by the Alte Filhre, a shorter and safer passage in stormy weather, the strait not being more than a mile broad here ; the other ferry is 2 miles. Greifswald (Inn, Deutsches Haus,) is a sea-port town of 8000 inhabitants, possessing a University, founAed 1456, which numbers about 200 students. An excellent Government steamer goes twice a week (Sundays and Thursdays), from Greifswald to Ystad in Sweden. The passage takes be- tween 12 and 16 hours. Strahtmd (Inn, PL de Branden- burg,) was formerly capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a fortress of great strength. It was ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is situated on the borders of the strait called Gollen, separating Riigen from the mainland. The town is entirely surrounded by water, and approachable from the south only by bridges. The Nicolai Kirche is Prussia, route LXXVI. — the island of rugen. 359 richly ornamented within, and the view from its tower is remarkable. The'Rathhaus was built 131G. It has 17,000 inhabitants. Scliill, the brave but imprudent soldier who took up arms in 1808, without authority from his sovereign, in the hope of freeing his country from the French, was shot in attempting a sortie in the Fa'hr- strasse ; a stone marks the spot. Tlie public fountain is named after him, SchilUhrunnen. His body rests in the churcliyard, witiiout a monument j his head is in the museum at Leyden. During the thirty years' war (1628), Stralsund was the place which first checked the career of the hitherto ir- resistible AVallenstein. He had sworn to take Stralsund, " even though it were fastened by chains to heaven;" vowing vengeance upon the child un- born, when he should gain possession. This impious boast, however, was not destined to be fulfilled, for through the brave defence of its citizens, aided by a party of Scotcii mercenaries in the pay of Denmark, he was at last compelled to raise the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men before its walls. In 1715, the town was besieged by the allied army of the Prussians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII., then recently escaped from Turkey, conducted the defence for a consi- derable time ; at length he was ob- liged to retire, and the town sur- rendered to Denmark. In going from Stralsund to Putbus, the old Ferry, Altfahre, about a mile broad, is crossed. 2^ Garz. Busch's Inn. 1^ Puthus. Inns: Count Hahn's, and Schwartz's, are excellent. A bed- room costs 1 1^ sgr. ; dinner 12j sgr. Putbus is a watering-place with 700 permanent inhabitants, belonging to the Prince of Putbus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to be the lineal de- scendant of the ancient Kings of Riigen, His Palace (Schloss) is a handsome Italian edifice, and the prin- cipal building in the place. It con- tains a library, some good paintings, statues, (3 by TJtorwaldsen), and a collection of antiquities found in the Island. Adjoining the Palace is the Saloon or dining-room, where there is a daily table d'hote, and Pavilion con- taining assembly and music rooms for the use of the visiters ; the 27ieafre, and the Xew School, opened 183G. Attached to the palace is a delightful Park, with gai'dens and pleasure grounds open to the public. The Prince's stables contain a very su- perior stud. A mile from Putbus, on the sea- shore, is the Badehaua, supplied with warm sea-baths. There are also bathing machines for those who prefer the open sea. The great attraction of Putbus is its beautiful situation near the borders of a bay with an island in front. High wooded banks and long indented pro- montories shelter it from the Baltic. It bears a miniature resemblance to the Bay of Naples. From the ex- cellent accommodation furnished by the lodging-houses, Putbus is the best head quarters for those who intend to explore the Island. All charges are fixed by printed tariff. The Prince's agent lets out horses and carriages for hire at a moderate charge. The Steamer from Swinemunde lands its passengers on the boat-pier at Lauterbach, a mile from the Baths. Travellers, intending to return by the boat, had better hire for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages waiting on the spot, make with it the excursion round the island, and leave Putbus till their return. The following sketch of a tour round the Island, includes all the most remarkable objects, starting from Put' bus to the 1^ Jagdhaus (Hunting Lodge.) Prora, on the narrow Isthmus called Schmaler Heide, which unites the promontory Jasmund to the main island. Sagard. Inn; Fiirstenkrone. Near this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth. 360 ROUTE LXXVI. — THE ISLAND OF HUGEN. Sect. VI. inn near at hand (Baumliaus). A staircase of 600 steps cut in the rock leads from the shore to the highest summit, called Kunic/sstuhl. Hither travellers repair to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On the W. rises the promontory of Ar- kona, the most northern point of Riigen, stretching far out into the sea. The Stubbenkammer is about 20 miles distantfrom Putbus, and 15 from Bergen. Close to this, is the Her- thaburg, an eminence crowned by a nearly oval wall or entrenchment con- structed by the ancient Sclavic in- habitants of the island. Within the enclosure, tlie Temple of the Heathen goddess Hertha is said to have stood. At Quoltitz is the stone of Sacri- fice, a rude block traversed by a groove or channel, to collect, it is said, the blood of luiman victims. Sijieker, a country scat of Prince Putbus, is a fancifid castle built by Baron Wrangel, after the thirty years' war. The way from Stubbenkammer to Arkona lies along another narrow tongue of land, called Die Schafe, which unites the promontory Jasmund to that of Wittow. At the village of Altenkirchcn (Haas's Inn,) the poet Kosegarten, who was its pastor, is buried. For 8 successive Sundays, during the season of the herring fishery, the minister preaches upon the shore to the fishermen assembled around him in their boats, from the neigh- bouring islands. A figure of the Idol Swantewit, is said to be built into the wall of the Clmrch. 4. Arkona, the most northern pro- montory of the Island, partly a clialk cliflT, 173 feet above the sea, is sur- mounted by a lighthouse which fur- nishes accommodation to travellers. Tiic view from it extends over the coast of the jjromontory Jasmund, to the island Hiddensee, and to tlie more distant Danish island Moen. Upon Arcona stands the ancient Fortress of the Wends, who at one pe- riod inhabited this island, called Bur- gring. It is a circular entrenchment The northernmost extremity of the island lliigen consists of a long narrow peninsula or rather of two peninsulas ; that of Jasmund, and beyond it that of Wittow, connected with each other and the main island by two narrow necks of land. The length of this Tinited promontory is about US miles. The bay or firth which it encloses, is crossed by one or two ferries, at which carriages and foot passengers can be transferred from one side to the other; thus avoiding the necessity of retracing the same road in returning from Arkona. Beyond Sagard, the road enters the ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz, Here the goddess Hertha (Eartli) was worshipped by tlie Pagan Saxons, and here stood her temple described by Tacitus. It abounds in stone se- pulchres called Hunengra'ber by the peasants, in which skeletons and jars full of bones and ashes have been found. The whole district is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian poetry and mythology. Buried in the recesses of this mys- terious grove lies the Hertha See, or Black lake, from the dark shadows of the beech woods around ; it is still looked on with veneration by the inhabitants. It is about 200 paces long, and 48 feet deep in the centre. These localities, and various ancient remains existing upon the island, such as tumuli and cromlechs, possess ad- ditional interest, if we regard them as the relics of a nation by whom Rome was overthrown, after an existence of twelve centuries: Odoacer, who finally captured the Imperial city, was king of the Kugii, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who formed In's army, was this remote and insignificant is- land, and the neighbouring coast of Pomerania. 3. Immediately beyond the Hertha Sec and the wood of Stultbenitz, rises tlie foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a precipice of chalk, 4 10 feet high, rising out of the sea, somewhat like Shak- spcare's cliff at Dover. Tolerable accommodation may be found in an Prussia. route LXXVII. — berlix to dakzig. 361 from 30 to 40 ells liigli, with an open- ing to the N. W. Within it stood the temple of the God Swantevit, destroyed by the Danes under King AValdemar, who took it by storm 1168; carried off its treasures to Denmark, and in- troduced Christianity into the island. Saxo Grammaticus, the historian, was present. Travellers must now either return by Altenkirchen and Wieh, to the \Vittow Ferry, and after crossing it, proceed direct to 5\ Bergen, or they may prolong their tour by taking boat, and making an excursion to the neighbouring is- land Hiddensoe, whose inhabitants, a poor and primitive race, not much r.iised above the condition of Es- quimaux, live chiefly in turf-covered huts, and support themselves by tishi ng. Many of them spend their wiioie lives on the spot, and never set foot even on Riigen. There is not a bush on the whole island ; for fuel tiie people have recourse to peat or cow dung ; yet with so few attractions, the island is said to be dear to its cliildren, who call it " dat sbte lanne," the sweet little land. Beryen (Inn, Golden Anker) is the chief town in the island, and has 2600 inhabitants. To the riorth of the town, is the hill of Kugard, the highest in Riigen, surmounted by the ruins of the ancient fortress destroy- ed 1316. From this spot the whole island, with its deeply indented shores, may be surveyed, as a map laid open at the spectator's feet. The distance hence to Stralsund is about 16 miles, including the ferry. From Bergen to Putbus is 6 miles. ROUTE LXXVII. BERLIK TO nANZIG. 76^ Pruss.miles = 359 Eng. miles. Schnellposts go twice a week, in about sixty-five hours, to Danzig; in four nights and three days to Konigsberg. The rate of driving post is about 5h miles an hour. As far as Danzig, the country is dull and uninteresting ; the road is macadamized, and good all the way ; the inns are for tlie most part bad, so that those who can bear the fatigue had better sleep in their carriage at night, instead of slopping by the way : the journey to Danzig may thus be performed in forty-eight hours. 3 Vogelsdorf. 3^ INIiinchebcrg. Here the road to Frankfort on the Oder branches off. '2\ Seelow. 2^ Kustrin. Inns: Kronprinz; — Adler. A strong fortress and town of 4700 inhabitants, surrounded by marshes, at the junction of the Warthe with the Oder. Frederick the Great was confined in the fortress by his imperious and crazy father, and com- pelled to look on while his friend Katte was executed on the ramparts. 6 miles north of Kustrin is the vil- lage of Zorndorf, where Frederick the Great, with 30,000 Prussians, defeated 50,000 Russians, under Fermorin, 17 j8. The road runs nearly parallel with the Warthe, as far as 3J Balz. Inn, Post. 3 Landsberg. Inn : Golden Hirsch, good. A flourishing small town, of 9000 inhabitants. The great road from Berlin to Posen and W"arsaw strikes off here to the E. Sb Friedeherg. Several small lakes are passed on this stage. 2i W'oldenberg. The country is rather picturesque, as far as 2 Hochzeit ; and is ornamented by other lakes. 1 Zutzer. 2i Ruschendorf. Here the road to Konigsberg by Bromberg (Route LXXX.) diverges. 2J Deutsch Krone. Inn, not very good. 2 Schonthal. 2 Jastrow. Inn, tolerable. S\ Peterswalde. 3 Schlochau. 2 Konitz. Inn, post, Kron Prinz, A town with a population of 2600. 4 Czersk. 3 Frankenfclde. 362 ROUTE LXXVII. — BERLIN TO DAN'ZIG. Sect. VI. 3 Preussiscli-Stargard. Inn: Gol- dene Krone, tolerable. 3 Dirschau on the Vistula ( Weich- sel) ; here the road to Dantzig turns off from that to Kiinigsberg ; the tra- veller who does not intend to visit X)antzig continues on to Marien- burg. 4i Danzig (in Polish, Gdansk). Inns : H. de Berlin, good ; Englischer Hof. Danzig, one of the oldest cities in Prussia, is situated on the left bank of the Western arm of the Vistula, or Weichsel, being traversed by two tri- butaries of that river, the Mottlau and Kadaune, at the distance of about 3 miles from the sea, and has 62,000 inhabitants. It is a fortress of the first class, and the principal sea-port of Prussia. It was anciently a leading member of the Hanseatic league, and a free city: it is still a place of great commerce, especially in wheat brought down the Vistula from Poland, and other corn-producing countries, and shipped from hence to all parts of Europe. The exports of wheat are greater than from any other port in the world. There are extensive dis- tilleries of brandy here, which hence gets the name of Danzig. The gra- naries, of enormous dimensions, ca- pable of holding 500,000 quarters of corn, are situated on an island called Spdclier Iiisel. To avoid tlie risk of fire, no one lives upon it, nor are lights ever admitted. To protect the ware- houses from robbery, twenty or tliirty ferocious dogs were at one time let loose at night J and such was the terror they excited that depredators were ef- fectually kept at a distance. The timber trade is also considerable. " There is nothing in the locality of the town to compensate for delay. The fortifications may interest a mili- tary ir.an, and the grotesq«e old build- ings may be remarkable to a foreigner just entered Germany ; but the only true object of curiosity is the Cathedrnl (Dom, or Marien kirclie)."* It was * Dates and Distances. begun in 1 343, by Von Waizan, grand master of the Teutonic knights, who sent an architect, Ulric Ritter of Strasburg, to Constantinople, to make drawings of the church of St. Sophia there. The plan of copying that edi- fice, however, was not carried into execution. The church, as it nov? stands, was not finished till 1503. Tlie vaulted roof, supported by 26 slender brick pillars, is 98 ft. above the pavement. Around the interior, are fifty cliapels, originally founded by the chief citizens as burial-places for themselves and their families. It possesses a fine brass font, cast in 1554, in the Netherlands ; and an astrono- mical clock, which has long ceased to move. It was made by an artist named Duringer, who, according to the story, was deprived of his eyesight by the citizens of Danzig, to prevent his making a similar clock for the rival town of Hamburg. The blind artist, a short time before his death, was led, by his desire, to the spot where his masterpiece was placed ; and, with a pair of scissors, cut a single small wire, which sufficed at once to stop the clock, and no subsequent attempt had suc- ceeded in repairing the injury. Such is the tradition. Thcgreat ornament of the Dom is the celebrated Last Judgment, attributed to John Van Eyck, known as the Danzig Picture. It was painted for the Pope, and while on its way to Rome, was intercepted by pirates; but was retaken by a Danzig vessel, and deposited in the cathedral, where it remained till 1 807, when the French, having captured the town, transported it to Paris. " On its return, after the war, the king of Prussia was very anxious to retain it at Berlin, and offered 40,000 dollars as a compen- sation ; but yielded to the pressing in- stances of the riglitful owners for its restoration. This act of royal self- denial, or rather of common justice, is gratefully commemorated by an in- scription on the picture." f The pic- f Dates and Distances. Prussia, route LXX VIII. — daxzig to konigsberg. 563 ture is said to bear about it the date 1367 ; if so, it cannot be by the Van Eycks, as they were but just born at that time. A crucifix, carved on wood in a very admirable style of art, and with great truth of expression, is the se- cond curiosity of tliis church. It has been here since the middle of the fifteenth century, but the artist's name is unknown. According to the story, he actually crucified one of his ap- prentices, in order to study more ex- actly the agonies of a human being dying under such circumstances. The other chief buildings are the Exchange, called Arthushof, an im- posing Gothic edifice, facing the long market, built in 1379. In its great hall, the vaulted roof of which is sup- ported by '\ slender pillars, the guilds and corporations formerly met. Their laws, in rhyme, are still hung up in it; and its walls are further decorated ■with carvings, old armour, and pic- tures; the most singular of which, on account of its subject, is a represent- ation of the church, under the form of a ship, sailing to heaven full of monks, who are throwing out ropes, hooks, &c., to haul on board a few miserable sinners, who but for their assistance would inevitably be drowned. Notice should be taken of two pictures by Danzig artists, a Last Judgment, by A. yiilUer, a pupil of Raphael, 1601, and a Madonna and Christ, by Ati- dreas Steck. In front is a fine foun- tain, ornamented with bronze figures of Neptune drawn by sea-horses. Not far from the Arthushof is the Senate House, built probably in 1311, with a belfry, dating from 1581. The tall brick tower, called Stockthurm (1346) was originally one of the entrances into the town : it is now a prison. The Griine Thor, a large building, originally designed as a lodging for the King of Poland, is now converted into a Museum. The collection of implements, dresses, &c., was pre- sented by Sir Joseph Banks. There is a theatre here. A British consul resides in the town. One quarter of the town is called Schottland, from a colony of Scotch weavers who settled here in the fourteenth century. By means of the gigantic sluice- gates near the Lege Thor, the country around three sides of the town can be laid imder water, so as to contri- bute materially to its defence from an hostile attack. There are besides several strong external forts, as the Hagelsberg and the Bischofsberg ; the last has been greatly strength- ened of late, and completely com- mands the town. Fahrenheit the optician, who in- vented the thermometer named after him, was born here. Marshal Lefebre, one of Napoleon's generals, was cre- ated by him Duke of Danzig, in con- sequence of his having taken the town in 1807. It was yielded back to the Prussians in 1813, after an obstinate resistance, maintained by the French under General Rapp for many months, until the town was reduced, by famine and pestilence, to the lowest depth of distress. The port of Danzig is Neufahr- wasser, at the mouth of the western arm of the Vistula. It is defended by the fort Weichselmundc, has a light- house and an extensive pier at the entrance of the channel. ROUTE LXXVIIL DANZIG TO KONIGSBERG. In order to proceed on to Konigs- berg, the preceding route must be retraced as far as 4-J Dirschau. The west arm of the Vistula is here crossed by a ferry, and the road then traverses the fertile triangular plain, or Delta, dcpositea by the river, which is bounded ' at the further extremity by the eastern arm, called Xogath. A bridge of boats is thrown across it, and on its right bank stands 2^ Martenhurrj. Inn, Der Iloch- meister. An ancient town of 5400 inhabitants, chiefly remarkable as the R 2 Se^ ROUTE LXXVIII. DANZIG TO KONIGSBERG. Scct. VII. seat of the once powerful Knights of the Teutonic Order, to whom this country was ceded in the tliirteentli century by the King of Pohmd. Aiter a struggle of 5:5 years, the kniglits effectually subdued the pagan and then barbarous Prussians : the germ of the present Prussian empire was, in fact, formed by them ; and they appear like- wise to have laid the foundation of that military spirit which still animates the nation. The Castle, or Palace of the Grand blasters, an imposing edi- fice, in a very peculiar style of Gothic architecture, was built at difierent periods; the oldest jjart, now much decayed, in 1 276' ; the Middle Castle in 1309. In 1457 it was surrendered to the Poles, after having been in tlie possession of the order 14S years, and having been governed by seventeen Grand Masters. The Cliapter- House (Remter) in which assemblies of the order were held, and foreign ambas- sadors received, is a circular apart- ment, supported by a single pillar of granite in the centre. The Poles, -while besieging INIarienburg in 1410, endeavoured to aim a cannon-ball so as to shoot away this pillar, and over- whelm at one blow beneath the ruins the Grand Master and all his knights, whom they knew, from the inform- ation of a deserter, to be at the time assembled in conclave. The ball missed its aim, but lodged in a corner of the chimney, where it still remains. The Convent's liemler is a very splendid apartment. The Church, in a very chaste style, and tolerably perfctt, is decorated externally with a figure of the Virgin, in relief, 26 feet high ; the draj'trics are painted and gilt, but it displays considerable skill and knowledge of art. Many of the XJrand ^Masters of the Order repose in vaults beneath the Church, in simple coffins. Many cells of the knightly monks, and their sid)terranean dun- geons, still exist. The building has been rescued from ruin, and partly re- stored within a few years, chiefly by the taste and munificence of the Crown Prince. The Buttermilk Tuwcr is so called, because, according to the tra- dition, the peasants compelled to build it by forced labour for the Order, were also obliged to slake the lime with buttermilk. Beyond Marienburg, the road passes through a populous country, abounding in villages, and showing evidences of prosperity and improve- ment. 4J Elbing. Inn, Stadt Berlin. A flourishing trading town, with a po- pulation of 24,000, on the Elbing, a navigable stream emptying itself into the Frisclio Haff", an extensive lake separated from the Baltic by a narrow strip of land, and receiving a large portion of the waters of the Vistula. On quitting Elbing a good view is oljtained of it. •2 Hlitte. Ij Frauenburg, a small town on the shores of the Hafl^. Copernicus, the great astronomer, died here, and is buried in the Cathedral, a handsome building on a height overlooking the town and Haff" (erected 1342), con- taining, besides his tomb, which is a simple tablet bearing a globe, some curiosities, as crucifixes, monstrances, &c. Copernicus was a canon of the cathedral, and lived in one of the houses whicli siirroimd it. Within the enclosure is a well, furnibhed with water by an acqueduct and hydraulic works, constructed by him. The ma- chinery of the pumps which he erected has long since disappeared, but a model of it is still preserved in the cathedral, and is supposed to have been imitated in tlie waterworks at Marly, near Versailles. The tovver which contained it still stands near the cathedral, and is called Kunst T/iiirm. It bears on its southern wall the following incription : — " Hie patientcr aqua: sursum propcrare coact.-e, No rareat siticns incola mentis ope. Quod Natura ncgat, tribuit Copernicus arte; Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus." Besides supplying the Domberg, or Prussia. ROUTE LXXVIII. K0XIGS3ERG. 365 cathedral hill, he introduced into the town, by collecting the neighbouring streams, a current of water sufficient to turn a corn-mill, an advantnge which its inhabitants did not before enjoy. It is a curious fact, and perhaps not generally known, that the Papal excommunication of Copernicus, for publishing his system of the Heavens, was revoked in 1821. ]J Braunsberg. [nns: Deutsches Haus : Schwarzer Adler. A town of 7:300 inhabitants, on the Passarge. The unlucky Baron Trenk was born here, 2| Quilitten. The road continues by the water-side all the way to Kij- nigsberg. 2'. Brandenburg. 2^ KoKicsBERG (in Polish, Kro- lewlecz ; in Latin, Regiomontum ; in Lithuanian, Karalaiiczug). Inns: Deutsches Haus ; Hotel de Prusse. Kiinigsberg, once the capital of Prussia Proper, and long the residence of the Electors of Brandenburg, still ranks as third city in the Prussian dominions in extent of population, having 70,000 inliabitants. It is no longer fortified, and its Palace (Schloss) is converted into a govern- ment-house. One of its apartments is termed the Amber Chamber, from being decorated witli that mineral. It has a liigh tower, and a vast hall, called Moskowitzer Saal. The Cathedral of St. Nicholas, built 1:532, is the finest edifice here, and deserves notice. Frederick III., Elector of Brandenburg, was crowned here in 1701, assuming the title of Frederick I., King of Prussia. The Church contains the monuments of some of the Uukcs of Brandenburg, of many Teutonic Kniglits, and of Kant, the metaphysician, author of the System of Pure Reason, as it is called, who died here in 1S04. The house in which he lived still exists; it is now a coffee-house. The Universitij, founded 1544, has about 450 students, and a Lihranj of 60,000 volumes deposited in one of the towers of the Cathedral. It con- tains several manuscripts of Luther, a letter from him to his wife, Cathe- rinea Bora, and the safe conduct given to him by the Emperor Charles V., to enable him to travel to Worms. A bust of Kant, by S^-hadow, is placed in the Academic Hall. Konigsberg is the see of the first protestant Prus- sian archbishop. After the fatal battle of Jena, the Prussian royal family escaped to this place ; and, on the approach of the French, were driven to take refuge in Mem el. A British Consul resides here. The river Pregcl, on which Konigs- berg is built, is not sufficiently deep to admit laige vessels, which, there- fore, unload at Pillau, the sea-port of Konigsberg, a flourishing little town of 4000 inliabitants, on the Baltic, at the entrance of the saltwater lake, called Frische HafF. The trade of Kijnigsberg consists of hemp, flax, linseed, tallow, bristles, wax, &c., but it has fallen off since the end of the last century, when it had reached the height of prosperity. There is a con- siderable fishery of sturgeon at Pillau. An extensive trade in amber was for- merly carried on at Konigsberg; there were at one time seventy amber turners in the town. That substance is still one of its exports; the chief consumption of it being in the Levant, where it is sold for pipe moutii- pieces. Amber is found all along the coast of East and West Prussia. A large quantity is obtained from the sea, wiiich after high winds, especially those blowing from the north, throws up a vast accumulation of sea-weed. The aml)er fishers stationed on the shore wait till the floating sea-weed approaches near to it. They then send in their people up to their necks in water, provided with nets, by which they draw the weeds to land. The amber is found adhering to, or en- tangled in them, and is immediately collected and sorted by women and R 3 366 ROUTE LXXIX. BERLIN TO DANZIG. Sect. VI. children. In one instance an attempt was made to employ divers to collect it from the bottom, but this failed. Much amber is obtained by digging up the soil even at a considerable dis- tance from the sea. It usually occurs near the surface, but in some in- stances shafts have been successfully sunk. The spots where it has been found in greatest quantity are Gross Hubenicken, Warnicken, and Griin- hof. The trade in amber was first appropriated by the Grand Masters of the Teutonic order, who often paid the entire expenses of their court out of the revenue derived from this source. It afterwards became a royal monopoly, and was guarded in early times by laws of the utmost severity. Watchmen were stationed all along the coast, and the peasant who con- cealed or attempted to dispose of any pieces he had found, was condemned to be hung up to the nearest tree. Afterwards a range of gallows was set up on the shore in ttrrorem. Since the commencement of the present century, the government has let out tlie right of collecting amber to private contractors for 10,000 dollars yearly; and though these rigorous enactments are now modified, a person who re- tains a piece of amber found accident- ally, is liable to be punished for theft —to walk or bathe on the seashore is forbidden ; and persons detected there were fined, for each offence, six dollars. The inhabitants of Kiinigsbcrg are allowed to bathe only at one particu- lar spot, and cannot wander along the sands without subjecting themselves to be searched by the strand riders set to watch. A British consul resides iiere. ROUTE LXXIX. KONIGSBERG TO MEJIEL B\' TILSIT. 29J Pruss. miles = 1 37 English miles. A schnellpost goes twice a week as far as Tilsit, to which place the road is now macadamized. There is a second and more direct road to Memel along the Strand, a narrow tongue of sand between the Baltic and the Kurisch Haif; but, as it is very ill kept and not pro- vided with post-horses, it is Uttlc used. 2^ Pogauen. 2i Tapiau, a town of 3000 inha- bitants. The castle, built by the Teutonic knights, is now a poorhouse. 2\ Taplaken. 3 Mehlawischken. 2^ Kelraienen. 2i Tilsit, ( Cronopolis) Inn : Deut- sches Haus. A town of 12,000 inha- bitants, named from the Tilse, a small stream which falls into the Memel. The Memel is crossed by a bridge of boats, 1 150 feet long. Upon a raft, moored a little below it, in the middle of the river. Napoleon, the Emperor of Russia, and the King of Prussia, met, to sign the treaty of Tilsit, July 9. 1807. The new road from Berlin to St, Petersburgh avoids Memel altogether, and stretches across at once by Tau- roggen to Mittau and Riga, thus saving a distance of 14 Prussian miles: — From Tilsit to Memel the road is bad. 3| Szameitkehmen. 2^ Werdenberg. 1^ Norkaiten. 2^ Priikuls. 3 Memel. Inns; Hotel de Russia; die Sonne. This is the most north- ern town of Prussia. It lies at the entrance of tlic Kurisch Half, and has 9000 inhabitants. It is the central point of the Baltic timber trade, and exports also a vast quan- tity of raw hides. A British consul resides here. ROUTE LXXX. BERLIN TO DANZIG BY BROMBERG. 9i Pruss. miles = 324 English miles. A macadamized road. A schnell- post goes from Berlin twice a week. Prussia. route LXXXI. — berlik to breslau. 367 The same as ) Route LXXVII. page 361. Inn: Goldener has 3000 inha- S Vogelsdorf. ^ Sj Miinchcberg. 3i Sulow. 2^ CListrin. 3^ IBalz. 3 Landsberg. 3^ Friedbcrg. 2^ Woldenburg 2 Hochzeit. 1 Zutzer. 2J Ruschendorf. l| Arnsfelde. 2^ Schneidemilhl. Lowe. This town bitants. 2^ Grabowo. 2i Wirsitz. 3^ Nakel. Inn : the Post. A town of 2000 inhabitants. 4 Bromhery. Inn: Hotel de Ber- lin, in the Posencr Vorstadt. A town of 7000 inhabitants, on the Brahe. The canal which passes this town was made by Frederick the Great, and serves to open a communication between the Vistula and the Oder. A schnellpost goes twice a week from Bromberg to Danzig. The road runs all the way along the left bank of the Vistula, generally within view of it, and is macadamized. 3^ Niewiesczyn. 23 Schwetz. On the opposite bank of the Vistula, lies Culm, a town of 5000 inhabitants. Truffles abound here. 2^ Gruppe. On the right bank lies tlie strong fortress of Graudenz, with 9000 inhabitants. 3 Neuenburg. A road leads from this across the river to Marienburg. 3i Mewe. 4 Dirschau. "1 „__ 4^ Danzig. jP^g^362. ROUTE LXXXI. SERtlK 10 FRANKFORT ON THE ODER, AND BRKSLAU. 43i Prussian miles = 203|^ English miles. Schnellposts go daily to Frankfort, and four times a week to Breslau, in 38 hours. The route is the great highway into Silesia. It is well mac- adamized. 3 Vogelsdorf. 3^ INIiincheberg. We here sepa- rate from the high road to Danzig. The country nearly all the way to Frankfort is sandy, desolate, and thinly peopled, producing little but firs. 24 Petershagen. 2{ Frankfort on. the Oder. Inns : Dcr Liiwe, in tlie Vorstadt; — Drei Kronen. A city of 22,000 inhabit- ants, no longer fortified. A bridge of wood, loaded with heavy stones to prevent its being washed away by floods, connects the old town, on the left bank of the Oder, with the suburb on the right bank. The prosperity of the town arises from its situation upon the great Silesian highway, and upon a navi- gable river, communicating, by canals, witii the Vistula and the Elbe, which combine in causing the greater part of the manufactures of Silesia to pass through it ; and from three consider- able fairs held here annually. It is far inferior, however, in commercial activity, to its name-sake on the Maine. The University was transferred to Breslau, in 1810. A monument has been erected, beyond the l)ridge, to Prince Leopold of Brunswick, who was drowned here in 1785, while attempting to rescue an unfortunate family from an inun- dation of the Oder. The battle of Kuncrsdorf, one of the most memorable of the seven years' war ; in which Frederick the Great encountered the united forces of Austria and Russia, amounting to 80,000 men ; and though worsted, did not sustain a serious defeat, was fought witliin a few miles of the town, in 1759. The poet Kleist died at Frankfort of a wound received in thiit engagement. A monument has been set up to his memory, R 4j 368 ROUTE LXXXI. BERLIN TO BRESLAU. Scct. VI. The road from Frankfort is still uninteresting. 3^ Ziebingen. At the end of this stage the road approaclies the Oder again, and crosses it, before enter- ing "I Krossen. Inns : Stadt Lon- don ; — Post. A town of 'iOOO in- habitants. Vineyards here make their appearance, and in still greater extent and number, near Griineborg. This is perhaps the most northern point in Europe where the vine is cultivated to make wine; but owing to the inclemency and uncertainty of the climate, its produce is not far re- moved from vinegar. Tlie best kind is made to eflervesce, and goes by the name of Griineberg champagne. 4^ Griineberg. Inn : Drei Berge. This is the first town within the Silesian frontiers. It contains a po- pulation of ] 0,000, and several flou- rishing manufactures of cloth. The spinning-factory of Messrs. Cockerell and Co. is extensive for this coun- try. 3 Neusalz, (Inn: Grosser Gasthof, Jacob's Inn), on the Oder. Xearly a fourth of the 230O inhabitants are JNIoravians. They have a church and school of their own, and two dwel- ling-houses for the brethren and sisters of the community 1^ Neustadil. From a slight ele- vation which tlie road ascends on this stage, the distant grey outline of the Sudetic mountains, which divide Silesia from Bohemia, may be dis- cerned. 2^ Klopschen. Nine miles on the left lies the fortress and town of Glogau, on the Oder; 14,600 inha- bitants. Inns: Preussischer Adler ; .— Deutsches Haus. 2i Polkwiiz, a small walled town. 2 Liiben (Inn : Griiner Baum) has 2100 inliabitants; who make cloth, flannel, and good biscuits. A branch coach (schnellpost) goes direct from this to the Iliesengebirg by Liegnitz, (3 G. M.), Goldberg, (2^) Schonau, (2) Ilirschberg, (3.) The traveller is now enlivened by the sight of green fields, interspersed with neat country-houses. Before reaching Parchwitz, the ancient abbey of Leubus, a magniHcent structure founded by Casimir I., appears in view, uplifting itself like a citadel. It is now converted into a lunatic asylum, and the hall of princes is tenanted by maniacs. 2i Parchwitz (Inn : Schwarzcr Adierj a small town on the Katz- bach. The road from Dresden to Breslau here falls into that from Berlin. 2^' Neumavkt. Inns : Die IIoflT- nimg ; — Das hijhe Haus. A town of 3000 inhabitants. 2\ Saara. After the famous battle of Lissa (Leuthen), in which Frede- rick the Great, with 30,000 men, de- feated the Austrian army of 90,000; he unexpectedly rode on to the castle of Lissa, a small village on the ap- proach to Breslau, which still re- mained in the hands of the Aus- trians. A party of Austrian officers were not a little surprised when their conqueror entered the room where they were assembled, modestly inquiring, " Have you any room for me here, gentlemen?'' 2 Breslau. Inns: Rautenkranz (Rue Garland); — Drei Bergen; — Goldene Gans (Golden Goose), a commercial house. Breslau is the capital of Silesia, and the second city in Prussia in point of population, having 90,000 inhabit- ants ; one quarter of whom are Pro- testants. It is built on both banks of the Oder, which is crossed by an iron bridge. The fortifications no longer exist, having been partly de- molished by the French in 1806-7, and since then levelkd, and con- verted into boulevards for the recrea- tion of the inhabitants. They have been tastefully planted, ai;d laid out in gardens and pleasure-grounds; the bastions converted into terraces, and the ditch into an ornamental sheet of water ; so that the whole ROUTE LXXXI. BRESLAU. 369 forms a delightful belt of verdure, separating the old town from the suburbs. From the Sand and Tns- clien Basteicn the town is best seen ; and from the Ziegel Bastci there is a good view of the Oder, wliich, tliougli rarely picturesque below Breslau, here assumes a pleasing character. Breslau is interesting to passing tra- vellers, not only as a commercial town, bustling, prosperous and wealthy, but also on account of various objects of art and antiquity contained in it. The Churches divided between Protestants and Catholics, " are ex- ceedingly interesting from the number of mural monuments and other works in alio relievo, ivliich decorate their porches and exterior walls. Tliese sculptures are of the finest style of Nuremberg art. The Dom Insel is so called from the Cathedral of St. John, built 1170, which stands upon it. This building, as well as two other churches, which, though detached from, are said to be part of, the origi- nal tripartite edifice, is exceedingly curious for its quaint, and not un- graceful, architecture of red brick." — R. St. Elizabeth possesses the highest tower in Prussia (3G4 feet high), and contains some ancient paintings, said to be of the ninth century. The Kreittzkirche is built upon a more ancient church, and this sub-structure is particularly curious. The church of our Lady on the Sand displays fine proportion in its in- terior. In the large square, called Grosse Ring, stands the antique Rathhaus, a quaint structure; built, it is supposed, at the beginning of the XlVth cen- tury, by King John of Bohemia. It is decorated with singular sculptures, in one of which the Devil is seen wheeling his grandmother in a barrow. In the apartment, called Furstensaxil, the allegiance of the states of Silesia was tendered to its princes, and among them to Frederick the Great. The Government House, formerly the Pa- lace of Count Hatzfield, is a fine building; the Palace (Schloss) scarce deserves the name. The finest streets are the .A.lbrechts and Friedrich M'ilhelm's Strasse. The Square, named after Bliicher, is orna- mented with a colossal bronze statue of him, by Rauch. The Tauenziens Platz bears a statue of the General of that name, the brave defender of Breslau against the .\ustrians, under Laudon, 1760. The L'/iiversitt/, transferred hither from Frankfort on the Oder in 1811, numbers more than 1000 students. The building, originally an Imperial Palace, and afterwards a Jesuits' College, contains one very fine apart- ment, called Aula Leopoldina. Con- nected with the university are the following collections : — A Museum of Xaiural History; the Central Library of 130,000 volumes, open daily from 9 to 12; the Cabinet of Antiquities — the larger portion are German and Sclavonic ; the Picture Gallery, made up of TOO paintings, chiefly trash. The Theatre here is not good. It is not surprising that Breslau, situated in the centre of the most pro- ductive manufacturing province of the Prussian dominions, concentrating also the trade of a large portion of Po- land and Russia, by means of the ad- vantages of land and water carriage, which it possesses in the greatest perfection, should eigoy extensive and increasing prosperity. The ar- ticles of commerce are various and important. Corn ; metals of many sorts, from the Silesian mines ; cloths, linen, timber, and fire-wood are the principal. There are nearly 100 dis- tilleries in the town. In addition to I this, Breslau is the first market for wool on the continent. Wool-fairs ' are held here twice a-year. ' Schnellposts go from Breslau four I times a week to Berlin ; 3 times a 1 week to Dresden ; ditto to Ratisbon. Fahrposts, twice a- week to Glatz, I Prague, Vienna, Hirschberg, and Warsaw. R 5 370 ROUTE LXXXII. — DRESDEN TO BRESLAU. ScCt. VI. Eigliteen miles east of Breslau is Oeh, chief town of the mediatised principality of Brunswick-Oels, with 6000 inhabitants, and a chateau. At the village of Krieblowitz, four- teen miles from Breslau, Field Mar- shal Bllicher died, aged 77, in 1819. Tlie remains of the old warrior, who is well known all over Germany by the soubriquet of " Marshal Vorwarts," rest beneath a monument, formed of an enormous block of granite, which has been raised to his memory, by the road-side, in the open air, under the shadow of three lime trees. The tra- veller going to Schvveidnitz and the Zobtenberg may visit Krieblowitz on his way, by taking the route through Canth, which is only a slight detour. ROUTE LXXXII. DRESDEN TO BRESLAU. The distance is S3i Prussian miles = 1563 English miles. The road is much improved of late years, and, except two stages, not yet quite macadamized, is excellent. A schnellpost goes 3 times a week, in about 36 hours. As far as the Saxon frontier the country is very picturesque. S Schmiedefeld. 1 Bischofswerda. Inns: Engelj — Sonne. 2^ Bautzen (Budissin). Inns: Das Lamm, in the suburb; — Adler ; — Lowe. Thecapitalof Upper Lusatia (Ober Lausitz), is very beautifully situated on the Spree, and has 1 2,000 inhabitants, who carry on flourishing manufactures of cloth and cotton. The parish Church of St. Peter is shared between Catholics and Pro- testants, who botli perform their de- votions within its walls. The Estates of the province hold their meetings in the Landkiiuser. Close to the town lies the old castle of Ortenhury, for- merly the residence of the Margraves of Meissen, ancestors of the Saxon Royal Family. In the neigiibourhood was fought the battle of Bautzen, May, 1813, when Napoleon compelled the allies to retire, after dreadful slaughter on both sides, and very little advan- tage on his. Here it was that Duroc, the most faithful and attached friend perhaps that he ever had, was shot by his side. After quitting Bautzen, the steeple of Hochkirch, seen on the left, marks the scene of one of the most bloody battles of the seven years' war. It was fought in 1746, by night. Marshal Keith, one of Frederick's best generals, by birth a Scotchman, who was killed in it, is buried within, thechurcli of the village; a monument was erected to him by his brother, the Earl Mareschal. About 30 miles north of Bautzen is Muskau, the seat of Prince Plickler Muskau, who wrote a book about England some few years ago. His park is laid out in the English style, with consider- able taste. The road to Breslau passes through a suburb of 3;^ Lobau (Inn, Lamm); atownof 2500 inhabitants. In the ancient Ruthhaus, the deputies of the six towns of Lusatia met, during 5 cen- turies, from 1310 to 1814. Besides the German churches, there is a Wendesch church here. 50,000 of the inhabitants of Lusatia are Wends, of Sclavonic origin, dilfering from the Germans even in the present day in speech, dress,'and manners. About six miles S. of Liibau, half way on the road to Zittau, lies Ilerrnhut, the mother colony of the sect of Mo- ravians, or Herrnhutters. It was established by fugitives, driven from Austria in consequence of the per- secution of the Jesuits 1721-25. They were received by Count Zinzcndorf, a Saxon nobleman, who granted them an asylum and lands on this spot ; and is considered their founder. A mo- nument marks the place where he caused tlie first tree to be felled in 1722, to clear ground for tlie settle- ment, the country being then a vast forest. The colony is settled under a hill, called the Hutbcrg, Watch-hill ; Prussia. nouTE LXXXII. — Dresden to breslau. 371 from which the members call them- selves the Lord's Watch, Herrn-huter. It is now a flourishing little town of 1400 inliabitants, distinguished by the order and cleanliness which prevail in it. It is the seat of a bishop, and the central point of the government and commerce of the sect, which, in 1832, numbered 42 settlements in different parts of the world. The Moravians profess the doctrines of the Confes- sion of Augsburg, but bear some resemblance to the Quakers in their inspirations, and the plainness of their dress. The female costume is distinguished by variously coloured ribl)ons. The girls wear red — un- married women, deep red — married, blue — and widows, grey or white. The meeting-house, the sale-rooms for the articles manufactured here, and tlie Cemetery of the community on the Hutberg, all deserve to be visited. The Cemetery is a very in- teresting spot, commanding a lovely prospect, and laid out like a pleasure- ground, excepting the flat grave- stones, quite plain, and bearing merely the name and dates of birth and death ; that of Count Zinzendorf, is distinguished from the rest only by its larger dimensions. Inn, Das Gemeinlogie. In proceeding from Lobau to Breslau, the first place within the frontier of Prussia is li Reichenbach. Inn, Schwan, ]| Giirlitz. Inns: Goldener Baum ; — Brauner Hirscli. A flourishing little town, which belonged to Saxony previous to 1815; it is picturesquely situated on the Neisse, with 11,000 inhabitants. Much cloth and linen arc made here. The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a building of the XVth century, and one of the largest in Saxony, is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The subterranean cha- pel, hewn in the rock beneath, is curious. In the Kreutzkirche there is a representation of the Holy Se- pulchre. About three miles off, in the valley of the Neisse, rises the picturesque hill of Landeskrone, sur- mounted by basalt, and commanding a fine view. From Gorlitz an excursion may be made into Bohemia, to the Baths of Liehewerda, about 18 miles dis- tant, romantically situated, and pro- vided -with good accommodation, though retired and not much fre- quented. The waters resemble those of Spa. There are some beauti- ful valleys around it, and in the neighbourhood the convent of Hain- dorf, and the chateau of Friedland, from which the celebrated Wallenstein received his title of Duke. It was presented to him, with its dependent estates, by the Emperor Ferdinand, as a compensation for the property he had sacrificed in his cause. It now belongs to the Count Clam Gallas ; and still contains some relics of its original owner, with collections of armour, pictures, &c. The ascent of the Tafelfichte, 3400 feet high, may be made from Liebewerda, from which it is about 4 miles distant, 14 miles S, of Friedland is Reichenberg, the most rising manufacturing town of Bohemia, and second only to Prague in population, having 14,000 inhabit- ants. Its manufactures, especially those of linen, are most important and flourishing. Between Gorlitz and Liegnitz there are two roads, equal in distance ; both are given here, but the first is most agreeable from the pretty country over which it passes. 3i Lauban. Inn, Brauner Hirsch. A manufacturing town on the Queis; 4500 inhabitants. The traveller bound to the Riesen- gebirge will here turn to the right and proceed l)y Grciffcnberc, 2\ Ger- man miles to Hirschberg, 4 German miles ; where he falls into Route LXXXIII. (p. 374.J 3 Liiwcnberg, a town of 4000 in- habitants, on the Bober. 3.'> Goldberg. Inns : Pelican ; — Drei Bergen. A town of C400 inha- B 6" 372 ROUTE LXXXIII. THE RIESENCEBIRGE. Sect. VI. bitants, who are chiefly engaged in the manufacture of cloths. It lies upon the Katsbach, a small stream, but memorable in history from the battle named after it, gained by Bliicher over the French in 1813. The Wolfsberg, on the W. of the town, was a point severely contested. Blliehcr received, as a reward for his services, the title of Prince of Wahl- stadt, from a small village of that name, with a convent now sup- pressed, between Liegnitz and Jauer. It had rained for four days in suc- cession previous to the battle, and continued to rain while it lasted, so that powder was useless ; and the victory was gained by the bayonet and the butt-end of the musket: 102 French cannon were taken. The fiercest part of the battle raged be- tween "Wahlstadt and Eicholz, near which a monument has been erected by the King of Prussia. The convent of Wahlstadt was built to commemo- rate the triumph of the Christian chi- valry of Europe over the barbarous hordes of Asia ; in a great battle, fought near the same spot in 1241, between the Duke of Silesia and the army of the ZMogul Tartars. Wallenstein was a pupil of the Burgherschool in Goldberg. He entered it in 1597. 2,^ Licjnitz, Inns: Rautenkranz ; — Scliwarzer Adler. This town, of 11,C00 inhabitants, is prettily placed on the junction of the Katsbach and Schwarzwasser. The Schloss is an extensive building, the S. front of it is as old as the time of the Piast Dukes, it has recently been injured by fire. In the Furstencapdh are the monuments of the Piast Dukes, the family became extinct 1675, after having given 24 kings to Poland, and 12;J dukes to Liegnitz, dating from 775. The liathhaus is venerable for its antiquity, and contains some old armour. The building of the Ritttr Acudemie, an institution for the edu- cation of the sons of Silesian nobles, is handsome. The New Cemetery for Protestants and Catholics, outside the town, on the right of the road to Breslau, should be visited. Tlic other road leads from Gorlitz to S^ Waldau. 3 Bunzlau. This place lies on the direct road from Berlin to the Riesengebirge. Route (LXXXIII.) 2i Liegnitz. 2-| Parehwitz. We here fall into the high road from Berlin to Breslau. (Route LXXXI.) 2\ Neumarkt. 2| Saara. 2 Breslau. (page 368.) ROUTE LXXXIIL THE RIESENGEBIRGE.* BERLIN TO HIRSCHBERG WARM- UaUN'N AKD LANDSHUT WITH THE EXCURSIOK TO ADERSBACH. General Information. The range of mountains separating Siltsia from Eohcmia, is called Rie- sengebirge (Giant mountains); the chief of this chain is the Schnetkoppe (Snow-head), the highest mountain in Germany north of the Danube, being 4983 feet above the sea. The outline of the chain is rather swel- ling than bold, but within its valleys are scenes of great beauty, enhanced, in tlie eyes of the Germans of the north by being contrasted with the wearisome flatness and monotony of their own country. It must be un- derstood that the scenery of the Rie- sengebirge will bear no comparison with that of the Alps, cither in ele- vation, grandeur, or beauty. Its beauties are limited to a pleasing variety of hill and dale, wood and water, rich verdure and fertility of soil, numerous towns and villages ])lanted in romantic valleys by the side of rivers, inhabited by an indus- trious population and enlivened by prosperous manufactures. These fea- tures give to the country an agreeable • Corrections and additional information rcsjicctinp the UioscnRcbirge is particularly requested by the editor from any travellers pcrsuiwl/i/ acquainted with that district. Prussia. route LXXXIII. — the riesengebirge. 373 aspect ; and, in conjunction with its Miner<-il Baths, render it annually the resort of a multitude of strangers. The best approaches to the Riesen- gebirge are from Dresden or Breslau (Routes LXXXI. & LXXXII.); the direct road from Berlin is bad, and the country traversed iminteresting. The following are some of the most interesting points proceeding from west to east, and passing from the Saxon and Prussian into the Aus- trian territory. The INIoravian co- Jony of Hernnhiitt, though not within the Riesengebirge, lies at a short distance from their western extre- mity. The Baths of Liebewerda, and W'allenstein's castle of Friedland, under the Tufeljichte, one of the highest of the range of the Riesenge- birge, may be visited by making short detours from the high road. (Route LXXXII. p. 371.) The tour of the Riesengebirge pi'o- perly begins at Hirschberg and Warm- brnnn (p. 374.), which are the mo'^t central points for making excursions, and the best head-quarters, as aflTord- ing tolerable accommodation. Owing to the changeableness of the weather, the ascent of the Sc/mee/tnppe, which is usually made from ilirschberg or Schmiedeberg, very often does not re- pay the trouble. The river Elbe rises from the southern base of this moun- tain, at the head of a beautiful valley. The country between Hirschberg, Schmiedeberg, and Landshut, is the Paradise of Silesia. No one should quit the Giant Mountains without exploring the La- byrinth of Adersbach, the most singular spot in the district, but lying within the Bohemian frontier. It may be best visited from Landshut, or Wald- enburg. Between Schmiedeburg and Breslau rises the Zobten, an isolated mountain ; the advanced guard, as it were, of the Riesengebirge towards the north ; commanding a very ex- tensive view. The Riesengebirge are the theatre of the exploits of the mischievous spirit called Rubezahl, whose name is well translated into English by that of Xunibtr Nip {i. e. turnip numberer). There is hardly a mountain, or a glen, in the country without its legend of this popular demon. There are very good inns at the towns of this district, and in remote spots on the mountains, the traveller, not over fastidious, may be tolerably well accommodated, without any lux- ury, in the buildings called Bav.de, resembling somewhat the chalets of the Alps. Detailed information re- specting the most remarkable spots in the Riesengebirge is given in this and the following Routes. The distance from Berlin to Hirsch- berg is 41 Prussian niiles = 191^ Eng- lish miles. This road is travelled by a Fahr- post, twice a week ; a portion of it only is macadamized, and it is very uninteresting, so that, as before ob- served, instead of going direct from Berlin to Hirschberg, it is better to approach that place from Dresden or Breslau. As far as IH Frankfort on the Oder the Route has been described at page 3G7. 41 Neuzelle. Inn : Weisser Schwann. 2^ Guben (Inns: Rother Lijwe; Blaue Engel ;) lies on the banks of the Xeisse, which are here planted with vines; its population is 750O. Thus far the road is macadamized. 3^ Sommerfeld. 3 Sorau. Inns: Sonne; — Stern; a town of 4600 inhabitants ; in a sandy plain. 2 Sagan. Inn : Ritter St. Georg ; a town of 5500 inhabitants, on the Bober; the Chateau was begun by Wallenstein ; attached to it is a fine garden and park. It now belongs to the Princess of Curland. The road is good as far as 2 Sprottau. Inn: Deutsches Haus ; a town of 3000 inhabitants. Beyond, the country is sandy, and the road heavv, running for 2 stages by the 374 ROUTE LXXXIII. — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. Sect. VI. side of the Bober. Gloomy fir woods, rarely enlivened by a woodman's hut, a pitch oven, or an iron forge, spread themselves over the district. 2^ Kosel. A little further on is Alt Oels. The desert disappears on reaching 2\ Bunzlau. Inns: Kronprinz; — Deutches Haus; a small town of 5000 inhabitants, on the Bober, si- tuated on the verge of the most pic- turesque as well as industrious district of Silesia, which extends as far as the mountains. In the market-place is an Iron Obelisk to the memory of the Russian General KutusofF, who died here 1813. The father of German poetrj-, Opitz, was born in a house in the Ring, No. 66. Much pottery is made here. About 2 miles off lies the ^Moravian colony of Gnadenherg . We now come upon excellent mac- adamized roads ; the country displays at every step increasing natural beau- ties ; a dense population, and a fertile soil. A constant intermixture of wood and verdure, hill and dale, give a pe- culiar charm to the landscape. 21 Lowenberg. Inns : H. du Roi ; — Weisses Ross. A town of 4000 inhabitants ; on the high road from Dresden to Breslau, and in a beautiful situation. At Neuland, in the vicinity, are considerable quarries of gypsum and of millstones. When about four- fifths of the stage are accomplished, a slight eminence over which the road passes, displays to the view of the tra- veller the fertile and populous valley of Hirschberg, bounded by the distant range of the Giant Mountains, " a ravisliing prospect in any country." The Schneekoppe is seen rising in the centre. 4^ Hirschberg (Inns: Deutsches Haus ; — Weisses Ross), the principal town of the district, is beautifully si- tuated at the foot of the mountain, at the junction of two small streams, the Bober and Zacken, 1000 feet above the sea, and has about 7000 inhabit- ants. Its once flourishing linen ma- nufacture is greatly reduced from what it was in the middle of the last cen- tury, though a large quantity is still made here ; and this is considered the central point of this branch of in- dustry. The chief buildings are, the Gothic Catholic Church, and the Protestant Church, which has some curious mo- numents in its cemetery. The Kavalierherg, and a low fir- clad eminence called Mount Helicon, arc two agreeable places of resort in the neighbourhood. At a distance, of about 4 miles from Hirschberg, lies Warmbrunn. Inns : Schwartzer Adler ; — Anker ; — Scliwartzes Ross. This is a much frequented watering-place, lying in one of tiie most romantic valleys of the liiesengebirge. The visiters usually amount to between 2000 and 3000 annually. The months of July and August are considered the heiglit of the season. The company is not so aristocratic as that which frequents the baths of Toplitz and Carlsbad. The hot mineral springs are said to resemlile those of Aix ; in temperature they vary from 97° to 99° Fahrenheit. They are considered efficacious in cases of gout and rheumatism, &c. ; and owe their virtues to the presence of sulphur and alkaline salts. The principal Public Baths are Das Grii- fliche Bad (the Count's bath), and the Propster Bad (Prior's bath) ; they are capable of containing 30 or 40 per- sons, and it is not uncommon to see them full of bathers of both sexes. In order to accommodate the great number of bathers, they are divided into classes. The 1st class bathe first, paying two dollars a-week ; the se- cond pay 1th. 10 sg., and follow them ; and the tliird, chiefly poor people, come last ; and pay very little. In order to enter them, a ticket of admittance must be obtained from the master of the ceremonies. There are also private baths. The Russian Baths, built 1830, arc the newest and best fitted up ; and are provided with va- pour baths, in the Russian fashion. Prussia, route LXXXIII. — the riesekgebirge. 375 Warmbrunn originally belonged to the Convent of Grussau, but is now the property of Count Schafgotsch. The building, called Gallerie, or Ge- seUschnftshaus, comprises a ball, or assembly room, and dining-room ; where the best daily table d'hote is to be found. The adjoining gardens and park of Count Schafgotsch, and the allee of poplars, afford agreeable walks to invalids and water-drinkers. Gaming of every sort is strictly for- bidden, under penalty of a heavy fine. Very beautiful glass of various co- lours, manufactured in Silesia, and numerous half precious stones, found in the vicinity, and cut by lapidaries on the spot, may be purchased here, and will serve as memorials of the Riesengebirge to friends at home. AVarmbrunn is, from its centrical situation, the best point for making excursions among the Riesengebirge. There are public conveyances daily in summer from hence to Breslau and Hirschberg. The small river Zacken is remark- able for a phenomenon not satisfac- torily explained. At times its waters suddenly disappear, and cease to flow for several hours ; after which they again burst forth, and assume their usual level. The most agreeable walk in the neighbourhood is that to the Kienast, an ancient castle now in ruins, hav- ing been destroyed by lightning. It is perched on a rock detached from the main body of the mountains, and its walls rise from the brink of almost perpendicular precipices, so that it is accessible only on one side by a drawbridge. The view from it is very extensive. In ancient times the daughter of a lord of this castle, named Cunigunda, who was as cold and hard-hearted as she was beauti- ful, made a vow to accept no one, as a lover, who should not previously ride round the castle on the top of the outer wall. She had many suitors, but upon this announcement the greater number retired ; a few made the attempt, and were dashed to pieces in the frightful abyss. The lady showed no signs of compunc- tion or pity ; she desired to remaia single, and was glad to be relieved from the importunities of so many lovers, all of whom were equally indifferent to her. At last, a knight presented himself to try the perilous adventure ; whose manly beauty and engaging manners interested her so much, that she repented of her vow, and beheld him with fear and trem- bling mount the wall upon his steed. To her great joy he performed the ex- ploit in safety ; but to her surprise, when she advanced to throw herself into his arms as her destined bride- groom, instead of a kiss he gave her a box on the ear, and a smart re- proof; and then, leaping on his steed, left her in shame and amazement. It was the Landgrave Albert of Thuringia, a married man, who, in order to punish her for her cruelty, had previously practised his steed in this dangerous exercise. The Schtieekoppe (snow-head), the highest summit of the Riesengebirge, 4983 feet above the sea, may easily be ascended in five or six hours from Warmbrunn. The traveller who makes the ascent should be pre- pared, if he intend to pass the night on the mountain, to sleep on straw, and he will act wisely in taking pro- visions with him, as the accommoda- tion of the haude is far from good. He should also be prepared for mist, rains, and the probability of not see- ing the view in consequence. Tlie road usually taken leads by Seidorf, where guides may be found, and asses and mules are kept for hire. — St. Anne's Chapel — across Riibezahls (Number Nip's) skittle-ground, pass- ing the Hampelsbauch, a humble inn or chalet, only 20 minutes walk from the summit. Those who choose to pass the night on the mountain, for the sake ofsecingthesun rise, will find better accommodation in the Grenz- ! baude, (called also Bbhmische baude}. 376 ROUTE LXXXIII. RIESENGEBIRGE. Sect.VI. Tlie top of the niountaiii is crowned by a small chapel, standing on the frontier line of Austria and Prussia. The prospect is extensive when the stale of the weather allows it to be visible. On the side of Silesia the scenery is rich and populous ; on the south, towards Bohemia, it is wild and precipitous : the mountains at once sink down into the rugged glens of the Riesengrund and Aupengrund, 2000 feet below. Breslau, 45 miles off, is sometimes seen from hence, it is said. The want of water, how- ever, is a great drawback in the land- scape. The sources of the Elbe are situated under the southern roots of the Schneekoppe. Two springs, rising in tlie Nawarer Wiese and Weisse Wiese, unite in the Elbegrund, and form the infant river. These are troublesome to reach, surrounded by marshy ground ; but the vale of the Elbe is very picturesque. The pedes- trian has the choice of descending from the Schneekoppe into Bohe- mia, to the pretty waterfall of the Aupe, through Arnau and Hohen- elbe to Trautenau (p. 377.), from whence he may visit the rocks of Adersbach, a beautiful and gratify- ing excursion. Or if he prefer it, there are paths direct from the Schneekoppe to Schmiedebcrg ; the time occupied in walking thither is about five iiours. The jwst-roaJ (rovn Hirschberg thither passes near the mine of felspar, which supplie? ma- terial for the Berlin china. On the way are seen tlie chateau of General Gncisenau, and Fisclibach, the seat of Prince William of Prussia, with a colossal lion, of cast iron, upon the neighbouring Marianne's rock. Fur- ther on is lluhberg, a country-house of Prince lladzevil. 2 Schmiedeberg, (Inns: Schwartzes Ross; Deutsches Ilaiis) a manufac- turing town, in a pleasant situation, with 4000 inhabitants, owing its prosperity chiefly to its extensive iron furnaces. The rond hence to I^and- shut is the highest in Prussia prac- ticable for carriages. It passes through a delightful country. 2\ Landshut. Inns : Schwartzer Rabe; — Goldener Lowe; romanti- cally situated at the foot of the Rie- sengebirge, on the Bober, has 3500 inhabitants, considerable bleaching- grounds, and manufactures of linen. About 15 miles off lies the Rock Labyrinth of Adersbach. The con- vent of Griissau, with its ancient church and chapel, are worth seeing. Adersbach is situated within the frontier of Bohemia, about 19 miles from Landshut, 17 fron W'alden- burg, and 8 from Trautenau. The Prussian Custom-house, on the road to it, is at Liebau ; the Austrian, at Konigshaus. There is a small but clean inn at Adersbach, where the traveller may feast upon delicious mountain trout. The Rocks of Aders- bach are a singular assemblage of masses of sandstone, extending in all directions over a space three miles broad and six or eight long, sepa- rated into fragments of various sizes by openings, gulfs, and fissures. Looking down upon it from a balloon, it would have the appearance of a mass of dried starch, from the num- ber of fissures and cracks; but when the stranger enters and explores it, he might almost fancy himself pass- ing through a vast city, intersected by streets squares and lanes. The rocks themselves are not unlike build- ings ; in many parts their smooth ver- tical walls are so regular tliat they seem to have been excavated by art. They often assume the appearance of towers and battlements, sometimes rising in tall, slender pillars, and obelisks ; at others taking grotesque forms, to which the common people have given names, from their fancied resemblance to different objects ; such as, the Sugar-lonf, (Zuckerhut,) an in- verted cone in a pool of water ; the tl'utch-tower (the highest of all) ; the Pulpit; the Emperor's Throne, &c. In number they amount to many Prussia, route LXXXIV. — the riesengebirge. 377 thousands ; and often rise to a liuight of several hundred feet. So nume- rous and intricate are the passages among them, that they form a com- plete labyrintli, whicli it would be dangerous to explore witliout a guide. There can be little doubt tliat the whole was at one time a continuous and solid stratum of sandstone, and that it owes its present form to the passage over it of floods or currents of running water, which, having found their way into the crevices and clefts, have gradually worn down the softer parts into gutters and channels. The rocks resemble the isolated fragments of the Saxon Switzerland, and are a continuation of them. In both local- ities, they belong to tiie formation called by the Germans Quadersand- stein, corresponding w/th tlie Green Sand of England. Adersbacli is cer- tainly a curiosity without parallel in Europe, and well deserves to be visited. A recent traveller advises all who approacli within 100 miles to explore it. The entrance to the laby- rintli is closed by a door, the key of which is kept by the gamekeeper of the proprietor, who acts as guide to strangers. ROUTE LXXXIV. the riesekgeuiuge. bresi.au to schweidnitz, landshut. (excursion to adeksbach) thence into bohemia by trautenau and PRAGUE. The road is macadamized as far as Landshut, between which place and Breslaii a Falirpost passes twice a- week. 3J Schiedlagwitz. To the east, about six miles off the road, is seen the Zobtenberg, an isolated mountain, rising outof the plain, and command- ing a wide prospect over Silesia. ijj Schweidnitz. Inns: Krone j — Zepter. A beautifully situated town on the Weistritz, with 9200 inhabit- ants. It was formerly a strong for- tress, but the greater part of its works were demolished by the French in I80G. The Ca« Among tlie most interesting histo. rical relics is the scale armour worn by the heroic John Sobieski at the siege of Vienna, in 1G83 ; near it are displayed the trophies, arms, and horse-tail standards, &c. gained by the detachment of Sasoii troops who fought under him on that occasion. Their commander, the Elector of Saxony (whose armour is also here), was the first who planted a Christian flag in tlie Turkish camp. Farther on is the cuirass of Augustus II., sur- named the Strong, It would be dif- ficult to find a man at present who could walk in his armour, " which you can hardly raise from the ground ; or wear his cap, which encloses an iron hat, heavier than a cauldron. But Augustus, if you believe the Saxons, was a second Samson." He is said to have " lifted a trumpeter in full armour, and held him aloft in tlie palm of his hand — to have twisted the iron banister of a stair into a rope .^and to have made love to a coy beauty by presenting in one hand a bag of gold, and breaking with the Other a horseslioe." — ItusseVs Ger- many. Against the walls and pillars of this room arc arranged a variety of swords and other weapons, many of which are remarkable for their workmanship, others for their history. Battle-axes and maces, of various dates and pat- terns. A dagger which, after being Saxony. route LXXXVII. — Dresden. — Prints. 403 7th. This room is filled with trap- pings and harness for horses, of most rich materials; splendidly embroidered bits and stirrups, and housings for sledge-horses, &c., on which the most elaborate ornaments have been ex- pended. The 7th room is fitted up with a Turkish tent, taken at the siege of Vienna ; and its contents are chiefly Turkish and Eastern arms. 8th. Is a wardrobe of ancient gar- ments ; many of them very rich stuffs, and, though centuries old, uot much the worse for wear. If a painter were in search of the costume of a German sovereign's court two hundred years ago, he would here be com- pletely gratified, and amply furnished with the most authentic materials. The little cocked hat of Peter the Great, and a wooden bowl, turned with his own hand, are the principal other curiosities here. 9th. Among the historical relics in the last and splendidly ornamented apartment are, the robes worn by Au- gustus the Strong at his coronation as King of Poland. By the side of them, as it were to show his claim to the bye-name of " the Strong," is kept the horse-shoe which he broke in two between his fingers ; together with the written testimony of those who were witnesses of this feat of strength. Last of all, here may be seen a saddle of red velvet, which belonged to Na- poleon ; the boots which he wore at the battle of Dresden, which seem to have sadly needed cobbling; and the satin shoes worn by him at his coro- nation. The Museum of Natural History, occupying the lower story of one side of the Zwinger, is shown gratis, from April to October, on Wednesdays and Saturdays; — the minerals, from 9 to 12; the zoology, from 3 to 6 ; by tickets, only fifteen of which are given out at once. A fee of two dollars will procure admittance at other times, if intimation be sent to the curators. This collection is not on a par with many others on the continent, but still contains some objects which a person interested in science would be sorry to have missed. Minerals. — The specimens from the Saxon mines are very complete, es- pecially those from Freyberg and the Erzgebirge. One specimen of native silver formed part of a mass of pure metal large enough to serve as a dinner-table for the Elector, when he visited the Schneeberg mine, in which it was found. The collection of fossils is large. The specimens of petrified monoco- tyledonous plants from Chemnitz, de- serve particular notice, .\mong them is an enormous tree, petrified root and branch. Another curiosity is a tube, formed by lightning falling upon a bed of sand, which has been partially melted by the electric fluid, wlieiever it took its course. This track is many feet long. It was found behind the baths of Link. Zoology. — This part of the museum bas been neglected, and is not very complete. xVs curiosities, we may mention the horse of Augustus II., stuffed. Its tail measures 1.'4 feet ; its mane, 16 feet. Two of his dogs arc also preserved here. One is 3 feet high, and measures .5 feet from the snout to the tail. The other is 5 inches long, and Ig inch high. The horns of a stag embedded in the centre of the trunk of a tree, and a Guanche niuinmy, also merit notice. Cohiuet of Engravings ( K upferstich- Sammlung,) is shown to artists and amateurs on Tuesdays, from 9 to 12, by tickets, which are given out in very limited numbers by the curator. Strangers who wish to see it at other times, must secure the attendance of the manager, M. Frenzel. That ami- able and erudite gentleman will give every information respecting it. Ou such occasions a fee of three dollars (for a party), is usually put into the hands of his attendant. This is '♦ one of the most complete collections of copper-plates in Europe, 404< ROUTE LXXXVII. — DRESDEN. — Atitiquities. Sect. VII. containing every thing that is inter- esting in the history of tiie art, or va- luable from practical excellence, and forms a supplement to the Picture Gailerj'. The earliest is of tiie date 1466, and is said to be the earliest yet known. Whoever wishes to study the history of this beautiful art, and to be initiated in the mysteries of connoissetirship, can find no better school than the cabinet of Dresden. It overflows with materials, and is imder tlie direction of a gentleman who not only seems to be thorougldy master of his occupation, but has the much rarer merit of being, in the highest degree, particularly attentive and communicative." — liussel. This quotation from Mr. Russel is not given at random, but because tlie writer can bear testimonj-, from his own experience, to the truth of what is here stated. There are said to be 250,000 en- gravings in this collection, begiiming with Finiguerra and the earliest Ger- man masters, down to the most dis- tinguished artists, Continental and British, of the present day. The fifty portfolios of drawings of the old masters, especially of the early German school, form a very interesting and prominent portion of this cabinet. There is, beside, a most valuable col- lection, unique probably of its kind, of portraits, to tlie number of nearly 300, of all the most distinguished cha- racters of the nineteenth century in Europe, sovereigns and royal families, statesmen and generals, artists and men of eminence in science and lite- raturu, all find a place here. They have been taken from the life by Professor Vogd of Dresden, are drawn with a masterly pencil, and the like- nesses are perfect. Several of the most eminent artists of our own country are included in the series. Tlie Jai'anese Palace, situated in tlie Neustadt, on the right bank of the Elbe, close to the Leipsig gate, was built by Augustus II., as a summer residence. It receives its name from some grotesque oriental figures and ornaments with wliich it is decorated. It now serves only the purposes of a 3Iuseum, and contains the following collections: — 1. The INIuseum of Antiquities. 2. The Library. 3. The Collection of Porcelain. 1. The Antiquities arc placed on the left-hand side of the entrance hall, on the ground floor. A traveller fresh from the Galleries of Rome and Flo- rence may perhaps be disposed to de- sjiise this collection, whicli indeed ranks after that at Munich, &c., and has moreover suffered both from the ignorant mutilations of a l>arbarous age, and from the barbarous repara- tions and restorations of a more en- lightened period. Nevertheless, tliere are many objects of high interest, both in point of art and as illustra- tions of antiquity. So general have been the injuries sustained l)y ancient statues found in Italy, that not only this, but almost every other museum of antique sculp- ture inay be regarded as little better than a large hospital filled with crip- ples. Many of the statues in this Gallei-y were originally so clumsily renovated, that the liinbs have been removed altogether, or replaced by more skilful repairers. There are one or two modern works which deserve notice, as D'eianira carried off by the Centaur, in bronze, the work of John of Bologna ; — a bust of Charles I. of England; — 80. A bust of Cardinal Mazarin, of bronze, a characteristic likeness, of good work- manship. 74. Another bronze bust, of Gustavus Adolphus, made from a cast taken after his death. No. 99. is a triangular pedestal of a candelabra ; the reliefs carved on its sides represent Hercules withheld by Apollo from carrying off the sa- cred tripod from Delphi. They are executed in the style called Eginetan, which may be regarded as the in- fancy of sculpture. This specimen is curious, as showing the early pro- Sa.vo>ij/. ROUTE LXXXVII. — dresdek. — Antiquities. \05 gress of the art. The faces are all alike, and withont expression ; the draperies arc stiff", and the hair re- sembles a coil of rope, or t\visted ma- caroni. 150. A Torso of ISIinerva, known as the Dresden 3Iinerva ; she is clad in the peplus, woven for her by Athenian virgins; a stiip in front, re- presenting rich embroidery, is divided into eleven compartments, the sub- jects beinii the battles of the Goddess with tlie Titans. 149 is a restoration of the above statue in clay by Pro- fessor Ranch of Berlin; — 125. A head of Niobe, like the one at Florence, and, though inferior to it, showing that beautiful expression of intense mental agony, of which, it is said, the masters of the Bolognese school sometimes availed themselves in their representations of the Virgin, espe- cially in those paintings of the De- scent from the Cross, or burial of the Saviour, in which the body lies in tlie Virgin's arms. 182. ^linerva, represented as the goddess who presided over the intel- lectual part of warfare, Greek strategy, and tactics. (IMars was the God of wild combats and i)attles. ) The figure is somewhat masculine in its shape and proportions ; there is more of manhood tlian womanliood in the ap- pearance of her broad shoulders and narrow hips. The j-Egis is thrown on carelessly and awry ; — 1 d'S. A Young Wrestler; — 219. A Young Faun, or Saltyriscus, in the attitude of pouring wine. There are three other statues of the same Faun in the collection ; this far surpasses the others in beauty of workmanship; — 262. Cupid playing with a lion is not very remarkable for execution, but the design is cap- tivating, and the expression pleasing; — 264, 266-, 269. A Lady of Hercu- laneum and her two daughters, found in an almost perfect state in the theatre of Ilerciilaneum. They are interesting as showing the costume of a Roman lady, still more so as specimens of the perfect treatment, of draperies by ancient artists. The garments have all the effects of transparency, concealing nothing of the natural grace of tlie shape and figures, but rather adding to it; — 29.'^. Torso of a wounded Gladiator, nearly iu the attitude of the Dying Gladiator; this is a fragment of great value ; it is executed in the most finished style of art, and the anatomy, especially of the back, is acknow- ledged to be unequalled for accuracy; — 364— :367. Statues of Four Ro- mans engaged in the game of Ball (pila). They were at one time erro- neously called gladiators ; but these are nobles of the titne of Adrian, not slaves; — 371. Bust of Caligula, in red porphyry. The efiigy of this emperor is rare, as most of his sta- tues were destroyed after his death from hatred of his cruelty while living; — 399. Venus in the attitude of the Medicean. The upper part down to the knees, except the hand, is antique. The back of this statue is considered by good judges to equal that of the far-famed Venus at Flo- rence ; — 400. An Athlete anointing himself; — 402. Ariadne, abandoned by Theseus, is regarding him with reproachful looks as he departs. The head is modern, but the expression of it is good. The shoulders are exquisite. Collection of Porcelain (Porzel- lan sammlung), on the sunken floor of the Japanese F^alace. It consists of more than 60,000 pieces of China, occupies 18 apartments, and the 31 S. catalogue of it (ills five folio volumes. Besides a large collection em- bracing the earliest as well as the finest productions of native Saxon manufacture, there is a grand display of Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Sevres ware. Perhaps the most cu- rious are the earliest attemj)ts of Bijltcher, the alchemist, wlio is said to have made the discovery while seeking for the philosopher's stone. The ware which he produced the first porcelain made in Europe) is of a brown or reddish hue, which none of 406 ROUTE LXXXVII. — DRESDEN Lihrarij. Sect. VII. his successors Iiave been able to imi- tate ; such specimens ore therefore rare, and highly esteemed by con- noisseurs. The Chinese and Japanese Por- celain occupies 8 rooms; a part con- sists of figures of animals of all sorts, grotesques, &c. &c. A number of beautiful objects in biscuit, such as busts, figures from the antique, groups, the model of a monument to Augus- tus III. ; a nosegay of flowers of very delicate workmanship of a more re- cent date and of European origin. Several specimens of French China from Sevres were the gift of Napo- leon ; among them are splendid vases, with paintings illustrating tiie events of his life, his coronation, &c. &c. There are several services of East Indian China ; one variety is called serpent china, and is very valuable. The Italian porcelain is ornamented •with paintings founded on the designs of Raphael, though not actually exe- cuted by him. One set of China contained in this collection was given, according to report, to tlie Elector Augustus II., by Frederick the First of Prussia, in exchange for a regiment of dragoons fully equipped. Mem There is a depot for the sale of Dresden china in the town (near the Briihlische Garten). The manufactory is at Meissen. See page 391. Tlie Library, in the first floor of the Japanese Palace, contains about 300,000 volumes, 2800 MSS., and a very large collection of maps. It is open every week-day, from 9 to 1 ; and is exceedingly well arranged un- der the direction of the Librarian, M. von Falkenstein. All persons are allowed to considt and peruse books in the reading room. The inhabitants arc allowed to take books home with them, a privilege also extended to strangers who can get some respect- able inhabitant of Dresden to come forward as security for them. Strang- ers may see the curiosities of this library any time they please, by send- ing a previous intimation of a few hours to the librarian. There are about 2000 early printed books, from the invention of printing to the end of the fifteenth century. Among the MSS. is Albrecht Diirer's Treatise on the proportions of the human body, in his own handwriting, and ornamented with his sketches (1528). Three volumes, representing the tournaments held in Dresden from 1487 to 15Gi, are cu- rious. A volume filled with minia- tures of the most celebrated and learned men of the fifteenth and six- teenth centuries, drawn, it is conjec- tured, by the younger Cranach. Seve- ral volumes of autograph letters, among which are some of Luther, JVIelancthon, Grotius, Sixtus V., and Bianca Capello. A large collection of Oriental MSS., inferior, perhaps, only to those of Vienna. An eight- sided Koran ; another, which belonged to Sultan Bajazct. A-Mexican MS., with hieroglyhics, curiously painted on aloe-leaves. Tlie gospels, written in the twelfth century, with vignettes in the style of Greek art. A collec- tion of Fables in Arabic, with minia- tures. A Mexican MS., containing it is supposed, the genealogy of the gods and kings of that country. A collection, in nineteen vols, folio, made by Frederick Augustus II., of portraits of the princes and princesses living in the .seventeenth century, most carefully coloured, with maps of various countries, and plans of the principal towns, said to have cost 20,000 dollars. King Renee of An- jou's work on Tournaments, with drawings. The Bible translated into Bohemian, in the fourteenth century, and written upon parchment in the middle of the fifteenth. A very large apartment is occupied by European History ; that of Saxony is particu- larly complete. The Gardtns attached to the Ja- panese Palace are very agreeable ; they are open to the public, and ex- Saxony. ROUTE LXXXVII. DRESDEN. 407 tend down to the margin of the Elbe, whence the view is pleasing. Tluutre. — The theatre, situated near the Catholic Church, is open in the winter season daily. The opera here is on a very good footing. Du- ring the summer, the performances take place two or three times a week in the town theatre, and sometimes in the theatre of the Linkesche I3ad. At Dresden the play begins at 6 o'clock, and the performances are usually over by 9. The Great Opera House is now used only for court festivities, carnival balls, and the like; theatrical performances take place in a smaller theatre behind the Catholic Church. Since 1830, the meeting of the two Chambers of Estates (Landes Stande), who form the parliament of Sasony, are open to the public. The Chambers f LandhausJ are situated in the Pirnaische Gasse. Clubs. — There is an excellent club called the liessource, to which stran- gers are admitted freely ; there is a good Restaurant in the house where you may dine a la carte. The iieit shops are in the .Schloss, Gasse, and Alt Mark. Fietta's caffe, at the corner of the Alt Markt and Schloss Gasse, is much frequented. Baldini is a good confectioner : peo- ple repair to his shop about noon to take a cup of chocolate and read the newspapers. O'arliuid Weavers. — " No where have I seen such heaxdiftd garlands of real living flowers, as are woven by the women who frequent the Old Market- place ; their wreaths are so elegant, that one cannot but regret they are perishable. It is curious enough, that the spot where the chaplet- wea- vers take up their stand and hang out their wares, is at the entrance of the house of the poet Tieck, the translator of Shakspeare ! Truly theirs is a poetical trade ; the station is well-chosen, and the bard need not feel ashamed of his neighbours." Dr. Struve's Spa. — This distin- guished physician has succeeded in imitating the mineral waters of Carls- bad, Ems, Pyrmont Spa, and others even of the most complicated na- ture, so exactly, that they produce all the good effects of the original springs, and are allowed by the me- dical faculty to be equally efficacious in the cure of various disorders. Dr. Struve's establishment, similar to one on his plan, long established at Brighton with great success, consists of baths and a pump-room, situated in an agreeable garden, to which patients may resort, or they may- have the water sent to their own dwellings. Dr. S. receives a certain number of guests as boarders in his own house. Eihcageti, tolerably well regulated, run from Dresden to the following places — 1. To Leipsig, es'ery day. 2. To Berlin "1 . . , .•5. ToBreslauj'^^'^^^^^^^- 4. Nuremberg, by Freiberg and Hof, twice a week. 5. Toplitz, Prague, and Vienna, twice a week, and four times in sum- mer. 6. Schandau, in the Saxon Swit- zerland, four times a week in sum- mer. Lohnhutscher (§ 34), may be met with in the Schlossgasse. Promenades. — There is no lack of pleasant walks in and about the town. Besides the Terrace of Bruhl, mentioned above, and a sort of boule- vard, which surrounds the town in the direction of the levelled fortifica- tions, the gardens attached to the Japanese Palace are exceedingly beautiful, and command a view of the bridge and all the finest build- ings in the town. There is another pleasant small garden adjoining the Zwinger. Outskirts and Environs. — At a short distance from the town, on the left bank of the Elbe, on the way to Pima, lies the Grosse Garten, a large park filled with fine trees, and con- 4-08 ROUTE LXXXVIL— DRESDEN. Rt. Bank of Elbe. Sect. VII. taining several cofTee-houscs, to which people resort in summer, especially when attracted by a very good band, which often plays here. About a mile to the south-east of the town, and half a mile froin the great garden, amidst fields and slopes, which were the " scenes of the com- bats and bombardment preceding the retreat of the French to Leipsig," immediately behind the small village of Racknitz, is the Monument of Moreau. A large square block of granite, surmounted by a helmet, has been erected on the spot where he received his mortal wound. His two legs, which were separated from his body by a cannon ball, are buried here, but his body was conveyed to St. Petersburg. The inscription says, " Moreau, the hero, fell here, by the side of Alexander, 27tli August, 1813." The view of Dresden from this point is very good. On the right bank of the Elbe, nearly a mile distant from the out- skirts of the Xeustadt, in the Church- yard f Xeustadter KirchhofJ, is a re- presentation of the Dance of Death (Todten Tanz) ; a procession of 27 figures, with death at their bead, dragging on rather roughly, and with a triumphant air, an unwilling throng composed of persons of all ranks, ages, and professions. This rude carving, in relief, is of no greater antiquity than 1534. It has now be- come the more curious, since the original Dance of Death exists no longer at Basle. Adelung, the celebrated gramma- rian, is buried in this churchyard ; and Frederick Schlegel lies in the Catholic churchyard in the Frederich- stadt. The right bank of the Elbe, above Dresden, rises in picturesque hills from the edge of the river. These are topped with rich woods, while their lower slopes, turned to the soutliern sun, are covered with vine- yards, and form a continuation of the Saxon wine district, which begins at !\Ieissen, and extends up to Pill- iiitz. These sunny slopes are dotted over «'ith neat white villas, in the midst of pleasure-grounds — the re- treats of opulent industry. Here also have been established several places of public resort, somewhat between a tea-garden, coftee-housc, and tavern, sucli as are always to be found in the neighbourhood of a German large town. (Page 197. ) Such are the Baths of Link (Link- ische Bad), an establishment com- prising an inn, situated about half a mile from the outskirts of the New town, on the borders of the Elbe, in a very rural spot, with ^garden abound- ing in alcoves ; a Theatre, where dra- matic performances take place in summer ; and a mineral spring, with baths, which give the name to the spot. In summer afternoons, especi- ally on Sundays, many hundred per- sons asseinble here to take their ice, beer or coffee — to dance, or listen to the music of an excellent band. There is a very pleasant foot-road from this, along the vine-clad hills, and by the Elbe side, nearly all the way to Pillnitz. Following the carriage road, about two miles from the Baths of Link, and half a mile from the point where the post-road to Bautzen (page 370. ) turns off on the left, is another house of entertainment, called Findlater's Vineyard, after a Scotch nobleman, who originally built the house as a residence. It is delightfully situated on a sort of terrace, high above the Elbe, with vineyards sloping down from it to the river's side ; and com- mands one of the most charming views of Dresden and the winding Elbe. Immediately opposite, the bat- tle-field of Dresden is spread out, and the spot where Moreau fell is marked by a group of trees. In a simimer's evening a numerous and respectable company visit this spot, and take ices or coffee, in sight of the beautiful prospect. Farther on, above Loscheu-itz, a small, red- Saxonij. ROUTE LXXXVIII — sAxox Switzerland. 409 tiled, dilapidated summer-house is seen, in the midst of a vineyard, close to the road. This was for some time the retreat of Schiller, who wrote the greater part of his " Don Carlos" in it. The building was lent to him by his friend, the elder Korner (father of the poet), who resided in the house below. The view from it is similar to that from Findlaters, and is very plea.sing. The village immediately opposite Loschewitz, called Blasewitz, has been rendered famous by Schiller, who has named the female sutthr in the camp of Wallenstein, Gustel of Blaseicitz — the said Gustel being a real person who, in the poet's time, used to sell cakes at the inn close to the ferry. This is indeed a classical neighbour- hood, for before reaching i'illnitz, near the village of Hosterwitz, is the house in which C. M. Von Weher composed his operas of " Der Frei- schutz" and " ()beron." It is the first house on the right, close to tlie road, after you pass an avenue of poplars running at right angles to the road. Tt is surrounded by walled vineyards. The excursion to the beautiful Plauensche Grtuul and the romantic village of Tharand is described in page 417. The most interesting of all the excursions round Dresden is that to the Saxon Switzerland. ( Routes LXXXVIII. and IX.; A traveller pressed for time, and unable to make the whole tour, should at least devote a day to visit the Bastei, Ottowalder Grund, and Kiinigstein which might easily be accomplished in a carriage with two horses (a Dresden fiacre would do), in twelve or fourteen hours ; breakfasting in the inn at the Bastei, crossing the Elbe by ferry, dining at Kijnigstein, and returning before night to Dresden. Another mode of exploring it, which would occupy more than two days, is to take the Eilwagen to Schandau, walk thence to the Winterberg, and de- scend the Elbe in a boat from Hirnis- kret-^chen to Dresden, stopping bv the way ta visit the most interesting spots on the Elbe banks. See p. 410 and 4 1 5. ROUTE LXXXVIII. THE TOUR OF THE SAXOX SWITZER- LAND, (a.) DRESDEN TO PILLNITZ, THE BASTEI, SCHANDAU, KUHSTALL, PREBISCH THOR, AND HERNISKRETSCHEN. General Information. — The district called the " Saxon Switzerland " be- gins about eight miles above Dres- den, and extends beyond the Bohe- mian frontier. The name of " Swit- zerland" is not altogether appropriate, as the scenery of the two countries is very different, and it may perhaps lead to exaggerated expectations, and comparisons disadvantageous to the Switzerland of Saxony. It has none of the glaciers, or snows, serrated ridges, and pointed peaks of the real Switzerland, and its mountains are of very inferior height ; but it has sce- nery so peculiar, and so unlike what is found elsewhere, that though it falls short, in sublimity, to that country, the Saxon Switzerland maybe visited with surprise and gratification even by those who are acquainted with it. The river Elbe flows through the centre of it, and its banks are more interesting in this part of its course than in any other between its source and the sea. " About four miles beyond Pillnitz the valley of the Elbe closes; the mountains become more lofty and bare ; the majestic river, quitting at length tlic rugged and mountainous course which has hemmed him in from his birth in the Mountains of the Giant, and destined to visit, through- out the rest of his career, only scenes of industry and fertility, comes forth rejoicing from the gorges which you are about to enter. From this point, up to the frontiers of Bohemia, the rocks in the neighbourhood of the 410 ROUTE LXXXVIII. — SAXON SWITZERLAND. ScCt. VII. river, principally on tlie right bank, consisting of a coarse-grained sand- stone, are cut in all directions into frightful gorges, as if the chisel had been used to hew passages through them. They should rather be called lanes, so narrow are they, so deeply sunk, and so smoothly perpendicular do the gigantic walls of rock rise on both sides. The walls themselves are cut vertically into separate masses, by narrow openings reaching from the summit to the very bottom, as if a cement, which once united them, had been washed away. These per- pendicular masses, again, are divided and grooved horizontally into layers, or apjjarent layers, like blocks regu- larly laid upon each other to form the wall. The extremities are seldom sharp or angular, but almost always rounded, betraying the continued ac- tion of water. Tliey generally ter- minate in some singular form. Some have a huge rounded mass reclining on their suminit, which appears scarcely broad enough to poise it ; others have a more regular mass laid upon them, like the astragal of a Doric pillar ; others assume the form of inverted pyramids, increasing in breadth as they shoot higher into the air. Occasionally they present a still more singular appearance ; for, after tapering in a conical form, to a cer- tain elevation, they begin to dilate again as they rise higher, as if an in- verted truncated cone were placed on a right truncated cone, resembling exactly, but on an infinitely greater scale, what often occurs in caverns, where the descending stalactite rests on an ascending stalagmite." — Rus- sel's Germany. Tlie rock of this district, which exhibits these phenomena, is the quadersandstein of German geolo- gists, agreeing witli the green sand formation of England. Many of the gorges, or narrow val- leys, above described, are inaccessible in carriages, so that the entire tour of the Saxon Switzerland can only be made on foot. Nevertheless, most of the finest scenes lie within tlie distance of a short walk from some carriage- road ; and notice is taken in the fol- lowing route of those spots where travellers may leave their carriage, and of others to which it may be sent round to meet tliem. Guides may be found at the principal inns of the district, who will conduct strangers to the most interesting spots, by the shortest ways. All that is best worth noticing, is described in the following routes, and may be seen in three days by a person who docs not object to rise early, and who is moderately strong a-foot. On the first day, he may breakfast or dine at the Bastei. The baths of Schandau afford good sleeping accommodation, and may be cliosen as the resting- l)lace for the first and second nights, and Dresden may be reached early on the third evening. Pedestrians, who make the whole journey on foot, will require four days, or at least three and a half, and will find the best lodgings to be, for the first night, the Bastei ; second. Great Winterberg ; third, Schandau, Ktinigstein, or I'irna : but as the roads from Dresden to Pillnitz, or Pirna, are dull and flat, it is best to pass over them in a carriage. The mode of travelling may be agreeably varied on returning, by descending the Elbe in a boat. Boats called Gotideln may be hired in the towns and vil- lages along the banks. An Eilu-ur/en goes four times a week in summer, from Dresden to Schandau by Pirna and Kiinigstein. N. B. The only mode of seeing the interior of the fortress of Kiinig- stein, is to obtain an order from the minister of war in Dresden, before setting out. Curtailed Tour through the Saxon. Switzerland. — " An abbreviated tour might satisfy many already accjuainted with mountain scenery, who wish to see as much of the Saxon Switzerland as can be contained in an enlarged circuit from Dresden to Toeplitz. By Saxon}/. ROUTE LXXXVIII. — saxon switzerlaxd. 411 leaving Dresden in the mornin;^ by carriage to Pirna, crossing the Elbe, and walking through Ottowald, the Bastei may be gained before noon. The traveller may dine, walk to Hochstein and Hohiistcin, and thence by the Krand reach Schandau early, and spend tlie evening in its agreeable neighbourhood. " Next day he may visit the Kuh- Etall and I'rebisch-thor with the Great "XVinferberg ; then return to tlie Elbe atHerniskrelschen and follow its banks to Tetschen, whence by taking a car- riage be may easily reach Toeplitz in the evening." — Pr, F. There are two roads from Dresden to Pillnitz. 1st. A carringc-road, and the shortest of the two, on the left side of the Elbe, by the village of Striessen, Tolkcwitz, past I^aubegast to the flying bridge, by which a com- munication is cstablislicd with Pill- nitz during the residence of the royal family, from INIay to the end of Sep- tember. At other times, carriages are ferried over in boats. 2d. The oiftei- roar! along the right bank of the Elbe, passing the I)aths of Link, Findlater's vineyard, and Loschewitz described at page 408.), is not so good for car- riages, and is also longer than the other, but it 'is more picturesque and interesting. Pillnitz [Inn and restaurant near the palace, in summer] is the resi- dence of the Court of Saxony from 3Iay to September. Tlie Palace is not very imposing externally, but it contains some very good modern fres- coes by the Saxon artist Vngel : those in the Great Saloon represent the Arts, Painting, Sculpture, Architec- ture, and ^lusic; the chapel is adorned with sacred subjects, by the same art- ist, exhibiting more of the refined conceptiiin and bold execiition of the old masters than is usually found in modern works of this class. Pillnitz was the place of meeting of a Con- gress of Sovereigns, in 1791, includ- ing the Emperor Leopold IL, Fre- derick William IL of Prussia, the Due d'Artois (afterwards CharlcsX.), Calonne, and many French exiles who projected a crusade against revolu- tionary France as the means of re- instating the Bourbons on its throne. There are gardens and hot-houses at- tached to the palace, and along the heights above, pleasure grounds and agreeable walks, commanding fine prospects. Beyond Pillnitz, the car- riage road quits the bank of the Elbe, and proceeds along an avenue of trees, through the village of Ober Boyritz to Lohmen. The road to Lohinen lies by the side of one of those glens or gorges for which this countrv is remarkable, called Liebethaler Grund. Though pretty, it is inferior in beauty to many others, so that persons pressed for time should reserve them- selves for the Ottowalder Grund on the other side of Lohmen. It takes about two hoiu's to walk through the Liebethaler Grund, and carriages may be sent round to Lohmen ; the path runs sometimes at the bottom of the ravine, by the side of the stream, at others over the tops of the rocks which bound it. It ])asscs large quarries, from which millstones are obtained, and the Lochmiihle, a mill sunk deep in the gorge between perpendicular cliffs, a flight of steps cut in them leads out of the ravine to Lohmen, a small village with a poor country Inn, and an old castle on the brink of a precipice, from which a peasant is said to have fallen while asleej) into the depth below, and to have recovered from his injuries. About a mile beyond Lohmen, com- mences the second ravino, called Ot- toioalder Grund, also to be traversed only on foot. It takes about four hours to walk through it, from the village of Ottowald to the Bastei. The carriage road to the Bastei is shorter, but lies over an open, unin- teresting country. A carriage might be sent round to Rathewald, and the abridged walk from Ottowald thither, would traverse the most interesting part of this ravine. T 2 412 ROUTE LXXXVIII. — THE BASTEI. ScCt. VII. " The Ottowalder Grund is sonar- row, and its walls are so lofty, that many parts of it can never have felt sunshine. In one place the walls are only four feet asunder. Some huge blocks in their course from the sum- mit have been jammed in between them and form a natural roof, beneath ■which you must creep along above the brook on planks, if the brook be small, or wading in water, if it be swollen ; for the rivulet occupies the whole space between the walls in this narrow passage which goes by the name of ' Hell.' — Russel. Some holes in the rocks, partly concealed by fal- len fragments, are said to have been used by the peasants as places of con- cealment for themselves and their property in time of war. A particu- lar opening is called the ' Devil's Kitchen,' from its resembling a chim- ney. The path at length leaves these intricate ravines, and, after traversing a forest of firs, emerges upon the verge of the gigantic j)recipice called The B.\srf:i, or Bastion; close to which there is a tolerable Inn, much thronged however in summer. The Bastei, from which is obtained by far the finest view in the whole district, " is the name given to one of the largest masses of rock which rise close by the river on the right bank. One narrow block, on the very summit, projects into the air. Perched on this, not on, but beyond the brink of the precipice, you command a pros- pect whici), in its kind, is unique in Europe. You hover, on the pinnacle, at an elevation of more than 800 feet above the Elbe, whicli sweeps round the bottom of tlie jirecipice. Behind, and up along the river on the same bank, rise similar precipitous cliffs, cut and intersected like those already described. From the farther bank, the plain gradually elevates itself into an irregular ami)hitheatre, terminated by a lofty, but rounded, range of mountains. The striking feature is, that, in the bosom of this amphitheatre. a plain of the most varied beauty, huge columnar hills start up at once from the ground, at great distances from each other, overlooking, in lonely and solemn grandeur, each its own portion of the domain. They are monuments which the Elbe has left standing to commemorate his triumph over their less hardy kindred. The most remarkable among them are the Liliensteiii and Konigsttin, which tower, nearly in the centre of the picture, to a height of above twelve hundred feet above the level of the Elbe. They rise perpendicularly from a sloping base, formed of debris, and now covered with natural wood. The access to the summit is so dif- ficult, that an Elector of Saxony and King of Poland thought the exploit which he performed in scrambling up to the top of the Lilienstein deserving of being commemorated by an inscrip- tion. The access to the Konir/sttin is artificial, for it has long been a fortress ; and, from the strength of the situation, is still a virgin one. Besides these, the giants of the ter- ritory, the plain is studded with many other columnar eminences of the siune general character, though on a smaller scale, and they all bear, from time immemorial, their particular legends — for the moiuitains of Saxony and Bohemia are the native country of tale-telling tradition, the cradle of Gnomes and Kobolds. In the deep rents and gloomy recesses of the Li- lienstein, hosts of spirits still watch over concealed treasures. A holy nun, miraculously transported from the irregularities of her convent, to the summit of the NonncnsUin, that she might spend her days in prayer and purity in its caverns, is com- memorated in the name of the rock ; and the Jtinf/fcnispruny, or Leap of the A'irgin, pcri)etuates the memory of the Saxon maid who, when pursued by a brutal lustling, threw herself from the brink of its hideous preci])ice, to die unpolluted." — Jinssd's Germany. " When from some elevated crag Saxoni/. ROUTE LXXXVIII. — THE BASTEI. 4.13 you overlook the whole mass, and see \ these stiff bare rocks rising from the earth, manifesting, though now dis- joined, that they once formed one body, you might think yourself gaz- ' ing on the skeleton of a perishing world, all ttie softer parts of which have mouldered away and left only the naked indestructible framework. " — Ibid. " The winding Elbe, winning its way, at so great a depth below, amidst the green meadows, is a pecidiarly beautiful feature in the scene, which will most assuredly detain the travel- ler for hours." — L. The view over the plain, however, is not the only wonder of this remarkable spot. Be- hind, and at one side of the Bastei, numerous gigantic pinnacles of rock separated from the main body by rents and chasms of tremendous depth, shoot upwards to a great height, in every variety of fantastic forms. So slight and slender are these natural pillars and obelisks, that it is difficult to understand how they maintain them- selves upright at a height of several hundred feet. " Numerous tufls of large trees have struck root in this world of rocks, where there appears not an inch of earth to nourish them." — L. The whole forms a scene un- equalled in any part of Germany. These slender pinnacles have l>een rendered accessible from the main land by slight wooden bridges span- ninj the chasms. A band of robber knights in former times set up a nest- liko castle upon some of the loftiest and apparently most inaccessible of them ; it was ciUed Burg Xeurathen, and scanty remains of its masonry are still visible. The entrance on one side was through a natural arch and over a drawbridge ; the approach on the other lay through a clcf\, three feet wide, and was closed by a port- cullis formed of a slab of stone which ran in grooves still visible in the rocky walls. The narrow planks with which the Robbers bridged the chasms around them were easily re- moved when danger threatened, and their stronghold was then impreg- nable. From this lofty eyrie they watched the approach of vessels on the Elbe, and dashed down to pillage or make captive, being long enabled by their position to bid defiance to legal authority. This fortress was at length destroyed in 1468; but in 1 639, during the horrors of the Thirty years' war, many poor refugees, driven out of their houses in the plain, sought shelter from the enemy among these crags. There are two ways of going from the Bastei to Schandau, either by the carriage road direct to Hohnstein, or by a steep path descending through the narrow clefl above mentioned, to the margin of the Elbe and the village of Rathen, at the foot of the Bastei. It then threads the bottom of other ravines as far as Hochstein. The waterfall of the Amstel Grund, though much praised by the natives, is but a sorry affair, especially after the cata- racts of Switzerland ; indeed, there is not one waterfall in the whole of this district worth the trouble of step- ping two yards aside to see it. Hochstein is a projecting promon- tory of rock, 500 feet high, com- manding a good view, ajjproachable by a frail bridge thrown over a deep dark gulph or yawning abyss, called IVolfschhicht. It is made accessible by ladders and steps cut in the sides, and from traces of walls and iron hooks fastened in the rock, it is pro- bable, that there was once a fort here, serving as a watch-tower or outwork to the castle of Hohnstein on the op- posite side of the valley. Hohnstein is a village of 800 inhabitants, with a Castle, which is surrounded on all sides by precipices. The fearful dun- geons were once used as state prisons. It is not much out of the way to gj from Hohnstein to Brand, another vcrv good point of view, but far in- ferior to the Bastei. The road thence passes down the Tiefer Grund, a val- ley so narrow that the sun appears T 3 414 ROUTE LXXXVIII. — SCIIANDAU — KHUSTALL. Sect. VIL rarely to penetrate it, to the banks of the Elbe, wliich it follows for about 1^ mile, till it reaches Schandau, a small town on the right bank of the Elbe. Good accom- modation may be found at the Ballts, about a quarter of a mile out of the town, up the valley of the Kirnitsch, a small stream which here joins the Elbe. During the season there is a daily table-d'hdte at the Bath-house. A mineral spring rising at the sj)ot supplies the baths. From its central situation, Schan- dau is good head-quarters for those ■who propose to explore, at their ease, the Saxon Switzerland ; and there is a good macadamised road from Schan- dau to Dresden (about 20 miles, after crossing the Elbe by the Ferry. ) Boats may be hired here to ascend or descend the Elbe. A good walker, setting out early from Schandau, might visit in one day the Kuhstall, Winterbei'g, Prebisch Thor, and Her- niskretschen, and return without much exertion to sleep at the Baths. A car- riage road runs up the valley of the Kirnitsch to within half a mile of the Kuhstall, about seven miles from Schandau. The last half mile is a steep ascent by a footpath up a mountain. Ladies not strong a-foot may be car- ried up in a sedan-chair by two stout bearers, who will be found in readi- ness near tlie spot. The portion of the Saxon Switzer- land beyond Schandau, which it re- mains to descrilje, is traversed only by footpaths and cart-tracks, and is inaccessible for a carriage, which must therefore be left at Schandau to await the travellers' return. The KhustuU (cow-stall) is a natu- ral arch or cave in the rock, 80 feet high, and 70 wide. During the Thirty years' war, the peasants drove their cattle hitlier for safety, whence its name. 3Iany of the persecuted Pro- testants exjjelled from Bohemia by the Emperor Ferdinand and the Jesuits, took refuge here with their families. This cave forms the frame to a sin- gular picture. " The traveller sees around him rocks on rocks arise, in most adiuired confusion, many crowned with fir trees, reminding an Englishman of the scenery near Tun- bridge Wells, only on a much grander scale. A narrow fissure between two rocks which can just be ascended by a person of moderate size, leads to a platform on the top of the KuhstalL The Wochenbette is a cavern so named, because the ' women in the straw ' were placed there for greater security, when this spot was an asylum for the persecuted." — L. The path descends through a chasm literally a crack in the rock, on the left of the Kuhstall, into the plain, and traverses fields and forests as far as the foot of the hills called Lesser and Great Winterbcrg, a distance of 3 miles. The Great Winterherg is one of the highest mountains in the district ; in ascending it, the guide points out a projecting rock, to the very verge of which one of the Elec- tors of Saxony was driven by an infu- riated stag which he had wounded in the chase. Just as the animal was bending down its antlers to toss hini over the precipice, the prince suc- ceeded in shooting it through the heart. On the summit, 1700 feet above the level of the sea, there is a sort of Inn, consisting of 2 or 3 sepa- rate huts, where travellers may obtain decent beds and ordinary fare, if they make up their mind to pass a night here for the sake of seeing the sun rise over the Bohemia mountains. From tlie Winterherg the path plunges down into tlie forest, and soon crosses the Bohemian frontier. An hour's walk brings you to the Prebisch Jlior, another natural arch, hollowed out of the rock, but more remarkable and of much more colossal dimensions than the Kuhstall. It is nearly 120 feet high ; the view from the platform on the top is fine, the scenery near at hand is exceedingly wild, and the distant outline of the Erzgebirge borders the horizon. A steep path Saxony. ROL'TE LXXXIX. — SAXON SWITZERLAND. 415 descends from this, and follows the course of the Biel, a small brook, and afterwards of the Kamnitz, a larger stream, turning several saw-mills, un- til it enters the Elbe at Hirniskrtt- scheii, a small village on the estate of the Bohemian prince Clary, having a dirty Inn. Large timber rafts are constructed here, and are floated down the Elbe, when the water is high. There is a good view of the gorge of the Elbe from the Belvedere, a sum- mer-house above the village. About 8 miles higher up the Elbe, within tlie Austrian frontier, is tlie small town of Tetschen and the hand- some chateau of Count Thun : the scenery of the Elbe hereabouts is very interesting. (See Route CCLXIII. in Handbook for S. Germany.) Boats (gondeln) may be hired on terms fixed by a printed tarilf, at Hirniskretschen, to descend the Elbe. It is advisable to take one at least as far as .Schandau, 6 miles, as the path thither is very rough, lying over the fragments of many stone quarries, worked in the cliffs on the right b.ink of the river. On the opposite side of the Elbe are seen two of the singular columnar hills peculiar to the district, the Zir- kelstein and Kahlstein. ROUTE LXXXIX. SAXOX swrrzERLAKn (b) — DESCENT or THE ELBE FROM SCHANSAC TO DRES- DEN BY KOSIGSTEIN AXD PIRNA. There is a ferry over the Elbe at Schandau, and on the opposite side commences an excellent road conti- nuing to Dresden, for the greater part of the way in sight of the Elbe. It is traversed by a diligence 4 times a-week in summer. The voyage down the river in a boat is very agreeable, and the tra- veller may on the way land at the foot of Lilienstein, Konigstein, the Bastei, &c., and explore these spots with little fatigue. (rt.) Lilienstein is the highest of the twelve isolated table mountains of the Saxon Switzerland, surjiassinor by 168 feet its opposite neighbour Konigstein. Its summit, 1254 feet above the sea, is accessible from the village of Ebenheit, by narrow paths cut in the rock, and by scaling-lad- ders placed against the precipice. These means of access were first pre- pared by order of Augustus III. of Saxony, after having himself made the ascent ; an exploit of which he was so proud, that he set up an obe- lisk, which still remains, to comme- morate it. The view from the top extends down the Elbe as far as Dresden and Meissen, and upwards to the Bohemian mountains. The French laid out around the base of Lilienstein, in 1813, a fortified camp, the ramparts of which still remain in part ; it communicated by two bridges of boats with Konigstein. During the Seven years' war (1760) an army of 17,000 Saxons laid down their arms here to Frederick the Great, in sight of Augustus, their sovereign, who was shut up at the time in the fortress. (1.) i Konigstein (a tolerable inn) is a small town of 1,300 inhabitants, on the Elbe. Above it, at a height of 779 feet from the river, rises the Virgin fortress of Konigstein, one of the few citadels in Europe never yet taken. It is deemed impregnalde from its lofty situation, surrounded on all sides by perpendicular escarp- ments of several hundred feet, but more than all from its isolated position, so fer removed from any other height, that it cannot be commanded by ar- tillery. Napoleon endeavoured to batter it from Lilienstein, the nearest eminence, but after raising 3 pieces of cannon with great difficulty to the summit, he found that the balls fell short. The platform on which the fortress is built is several acres in ex- tent, and not quite two miles in cir- cumference. This space is cultivated in fields and gardens, and produces corn and pasturage for one or two cows, so as to suffice to support a T 4- 416 ROUTE XC. — DRESDEN TO NUREMBERG. Sect. VII. garrison of 600 men. In time of peace, not more than 200 are stationed here. A well, cut to the depth of 1800 feet in the solid rock, supplies them with water from an inexhaustible spring, and enormous casemates, also excavated, serve as storehouses for provisions. Konigstein is distant only 10 miles from the Austrian frontier, and is justly considered the key of the jjassage into Bohemia. In war- time, the treasures of the Saxon mo- narchs have frequently been deposited here to be out of harm's way, and indeed, Augustus III. himself took refuge here during the Seven years' war. A ledge, projecting over the preci- pice, has the name of the Pages bed, from the circumstance of a page of the Elector John George having been found on it fast asleep. His master, to warn him of the risk he run, and to frighten him, caused him to be tied down, and then awakened by a pistol fired close to his ear. There was once an enormous wine-cask here, a rival in size of that at Heidelberg, but it was broken up some time ago, having fallen to decay. This fortress serves as a state prison. Strangers cannot gain admittance to see Konig- stein without a special permission from tlie Saxon Minister of War at .Dresden. The Elbe almost encircles the hill of Lilienstein, and follows a tortuous course as far as Pima, passing (rt. ) The village of llathen, at the foot of the gigantic precipices of the Bastei, see p. 412. 'J'ravellers usu- ally disembark at Rathen to ascend it ; three or four hours may be agree- ably spent in enjoying the prospect from its sinnmit, and in exploring the singular valleys around it. (rt ) Wehlen, a small village. (1.) The high road now quits the Elbe, and runs at a little distance from it. (1.) A little above Pima stands the Castle of Sonnenstein, on an ele- vated rock, at the back of which the high road passes, before it de- scends into the town. It was origin- ally a fortress and a state-prison. Patkul, afterwards so cruelly mur- dered by Charles XII., was confined in it. It was obstinately defended by the French in 1813. It is now converted into a Lunatic Asylum. (1.) 1^ Pima. Inns: Weisses Ross ; — Schwartzer Adler ; — outside the walls. Tliis small and unim- portant town of 5500 inhabitants lies on the high road from Dresden to Toeplitz, and on the bank of the Elbe. Carriages and boats are kept for hire here. Hence to Dresden the road lies across a plain. (rt.) Pillnitz, p. 411. (rt. ) The ferry above Hosterwitz, p. 409. (1.) The small villages of Laube- gast, Tolkewitz, and Blasewitz, p. (rt. ) Loschwitz, Findlater's Vine- yard, and Links Baths, p. 408. 2. Dresden, in Route LXXXVII. ROUTE XC. DRESDEN TO NUREMBERG IN BAVARIA BY THE VALLEY OF I'LAUB.N', THA- RAND, FREIBERG, CHEMNITZ, HOP, AND BAIREUTH. 39^ German miles = 1 90 Eng. miles. An eilwagen passes from Dresden to Chemnitz and back twice a week. The first part of the following route as far as Freiberg is new, and is far preferable to and shorter than the old road by Herzogswalde ; it is also less hilly, and within a few years has been much improved. On leaving Dresden the road crosses the small river Weisseritz, and follows its course for about two miles to Plauen, a village of a few houses and water mills, at the entrance of the very picturesque glen called the Plau- ensc/ie Grund, with precipitous rocky sides or slopes overgrown with under- wood. It has been compared to the scenery of Hackfell, in Yorkshire. The road passes through it by the side Saxony. ROUTE XC. — FREIBERG. 417 of the Weisseritz, a stream very useful in turning the wheels of many mills. which give a lively air to its banks. The valley opens out into a bro.id, green meadow near tiie industrious village of Potschappel, close to which there are coal mines, iron forges, glass works, &c. Agates are found in the rocks around, and in the beds of t!ie .streams ; coke is made here to supply the smelting furnaces at I'reiborg. 1 J Tharand. Inns : — Dcutsches Haus ; — Hirsch. A watering-place and village with 1000 inhabitants: its mineral baths are much frt.-quentk.'d in summer by the inhabitants of Dresden. It is romantically situated on a spot where three valleys meet, two of them sending forth stre'jms which unite and flow through the Plauenschegrund into the Elbe. It takes but ten minutes to ascend from the inn to the Ruins of the Old Castle perched on a promontory of rock, from which you look down into the deep and picturesque valley on either side. The ruin is the re- mains of a hunting seat of the an- cestors of the present King of Saxony. It is worth while to take a guide to explore some of the other pretty walks in this neighbourhood, such as the Forstgarttn, from which there is a fine vieM', and the beech avenue called the Heilige Hallen. Tlie Forstgarten is a nursery forest containing lOOO species of trees and shrubs attached to the For^t Academic subsisting here, in which a certain number of students are instructed in the forester's art and every thing relating to planting trees and rearing timber. At the village of Naundorf the old road by Herzogswald joins that which we follow. On the banks of the river ]Mulde, which the road crosses on approaching Freiberg, are several silver mines. The traveller's atten- tion is arrested by the ceaseless tinkling of a bell This is attached to the works of the mine called Him- malfahrt (Ascension), and its use is to give notice to the miners that all is right in the works below. If a rope l)reak, or any other accident befall the machinery, the bell ceases to ring, and attention is thus instantly called to it. 2^ Freiberg. Inn, Das Schwartze Ross (Black Horse). An ancient and decayed Imperial city, still surround- ed by its old walls and ditch. It once contained 40,000 inhabitants in the days of its prosperity ; it has now only 1 1,200. It is the capital of the mining district of Saxony, and its rise and fall has kept pace with the ])roductiveness of its silver mines. They have of late much fallen off, owing in a great degree to the richest veins being worked out, or to the shafts being driven so deep, that it is impossible to drain off the water from them. A project for clearing them, by digging a tunnel through the moun- tains to the Elbe at ZNIeissen, is talked of, with little prospect of its being carried into execution. It has been calculated by Breithaupt, that the Freiberg inines have produced in the 640 years during which they have been worked, down to 1 825, 82,0000 cwt. of silver, or the worth of 240 millions of dollars. The amount of silver gained in 1833, equalled 523,952 dollars. Freiberg was long the residence of the Saxon princes, who bestowed on it many immunities and privileges, and several of whom are entered in the JDom Kirche ( Cathedral), a handsome gothic building. Behind the altar is tlie tomb of Maurice of Saxony, a lofty sarcophagus, richly adorned with sculpture by an artist of Antwerp, named Florus. Above it, in a niche, is placed the armour worn by IVIau- rice at the battle of Sievershausen, where he was killed, after gaining the victory, by a shot from behind ; the hole made by the bullet is still visi- ble. The standards taken in the battle were hung over his grave ; they have dropped to pieces with age, and the worm-eaten staves will not X 5 418 ROUTE XC. — FREIBERG. Sect. VII. long survive. In an adjoining chapel arc buried Henry the Pious, and his successors down to Christian I , by whom it was built. It is enriched with Saxon marble and serpentine, and contains bronze statues of those who rest beneath. Other curiosities of this church are two pulpits of Gothic workman- ship, curiously carved in stone ; one is supported by figures of the master mason and his apprentice who ex- ecuted it. The Golden Gate is a richly-ornamented round portal, well worth notice. Beside it is the tomb of the celebrated geologist, Werner, who died here in 1817. Once a quarter a sermon is preached in this church to the miners, who all attend in a body. In the marhet-place, opposite the guard-house, a flat, round stone in the pavement marks the spot where Kunz of Kaufungen, the robber- knight, who stole the two young Saxon princes, Albert and Ernest, from their father's palace, was beheaded. The School of Mines {Berg Aca- deniie) is the most renowned in Ger- many, and students repair hither for instruction in the art of mining from all quarters of the globe. Humboldt, Werner, Jameson of Edinburgh, Mohs, and many other eminent mi- neralogists and geologists were pupils in this institution. Instructions are given by professors both in the prac- tice and theory of the art ; in survey- ing, mining, and the preparation of ores, as well as in geology, mine- ralogy, &c. The Museum of the School of Mines is very rich in remarkable specimens of all the mineral productions of Saxony, and includes the splendid and useful collection of Werner him- self. It is not deficient in tlie geologi- cal department and in fossils. The collection of Models of the Mines, and the Machinery used in them, will give an uninitiated person a better idea than a visit to the mines themselves, of the nature of a miner's operations, or at least will prepare one who purposes visiting them for under- standing them when on the spot. There is an office for the sale of minerals attached to this establish- ment. There are said to be about ISO mines of silver, copper, lead, and co- balt, round Freiberg : the prevailing rock in which they are situated is a primary gneiss. To see a mine tho- roughly will occupy about three hours. A permission must first be obtained from the Bergmeistcr in Freiberg. Strangers are provided with a miner's dress at the entrance of the mine. Most of the mines are distant a mile or two from the town, and proper guides are appointed to conduct persons thither. The mine most conveniently visited, perhaps is that called the Kurfurst (Elector), because it is large and dry ; it lies near Gross Schirma. Tlie Alt Mord Gruhe (Old 3Iurder Mine) has very remarkable hydraulic pumps for extracting the water. The prin- cipal ores of silver are, argentiferous sulphuret of lead, native silver, and red silver. The Amalgamir Work at Hals- brucke, about three miles out of the town, where the pure silver is ob- tained from the less productive ores by amalgamation witli quick-silver, is well worth seeing. The process is carried on here upon the most scien- tific principles. At Halsbrucke are also situated many smeltlng-furnaces. What is called the Hehe-huus, a sort of crane by -(vhich boats are raised out of the 3Iuldc into a canal, is a guide-book wonder, not worth the trouble of the walk. The Miners of the Saxon Erzge- birge are a somewhat primitive class. Their form of salutation is by the words Gliick auf. They are enrolled in a sort of semi-military corps, of which the common workmen are the privates, and the superintendents and managers, the officers. They are called out several times a year for inspection, or parade, and in addition Saxony. ROUTE XC CHEMNITZ. 419 appear in a body at certain stated times to attend miners' prayers in tlie chiircli, at the fimeral of a superior officer, during the visit of a royal personage, and on days of rejoicing for the discovery of a rich vein. On t]iese occasions they appear in uni- form, their leather aprons fastened on behind, leather pockets in the place of cartouche-boxes, and a large knife stuck in the girdle. The common miners march with their pickaxes shouldered, the carpenters with their axes, and the smiths with their ham- mers, borne in the same fashion. These processions have a martial apj)earance, are headed by a band playing a miner's march, and accom- panied by flying colours. The officers have similar uniforms, distinguished according to their rank. Allj up to the chief, or Berg-IIauptman, whe- ther in working costume or in full dress, wear the singular hhuh'r.a\)i-on, which, from its position, bears a very significant name. Even the sovereign, were he to appear on the spot, as head miner of Saxony, could not dispense with this appendage. To be deprived of it is the greatest disgrace to which the miner can be subjected ; he thereby loses his privileges, and the dishonour is equal to that of knock- ing off the spurs from a knight's heels. After quitting Freiberg, the road leaves on the right the hamlet of Gros Schirma, and passes the mines of Neu-Gottes-Segen (New blessing of God), and farther on, of Himmels- furst (Prince of heaven), once the richest in the district, and one of the most productive mines in Europe, distant about two miles from Frei- berg to the south-east. 2 Oederan. Inns : Post, Hirsch. A manufacturing town of 3100 inha- bitants. The little village Fliihe is remarkable as the birthplace of the eminent statesman and lawyer Sam. Puffendorf, whose father was the mi- nister here. On the right of the vil- lage of Flohe rises the castle of Au- gustusberg, built 1572 by the Elector Augustus. It has a well 286 yards deep, cut in the rock ; and a lime-tree, 400 years old, is still growing in its garden. The chapel contains two pictures by L. Cranack. 2 Chemnitz. Inns: Hotel deSaxc; Rijmischer Kaiser. Chemnitz is the l^rincipal manufacturing town in Saxony. The cotton goods, espe- cially stockings, for which it is chiefly celebrated, and to which it owes its present prosperity, are said to rival even the English. Chemnitz is also famous for the manufactory of spinning machinery, which supplies a large part of the continent. It has a population of 19,000 souls, and is situated in a beautiful and well- watered valley. For 400 years it was a Free Imperial city, and still dis- plays, in its buildings, marks of its antiquity. The ancient walls which formerly surrounded it have been pulled down, and their site converted into a pleasant Boulevard, connecting the old town with its fine thriving suburbs. The Great Church is worth enter- ing : it contains several curiosities. Next to it, the chief buildings are the Rathhans and Geivandhaus (cloth- hall). 2 Lungwitz. 2J Ziuicknu. Inn : Post ; on the banks of the Mulde, has 5300 inha- bitants. St. Mary's church is distin- guished by its tall tower, which Luther often ascended on account of the pleasing view it commands. Within the church are several very fine paintings by the old German master, U^ohlgemuth. There are re- cords existing which give the exact date of their execution. Two brothers, named Schumann, in this remote town, reprint in a small and cheap form the works of Byron, Scott, and other popular English writers There is a good road from Zwickau to Carlsbad, through Schneeberg and the Erzge- birge. Route XCI. T 6 420 ROUTE XCI. EKZGEBIRGE. Sect. VII. About 15 miles S. E. of Zwickau, I at Aue, there arc extensive cobalt mines and smalt works. Near this also is dug the porcelain earth from ■which the china manufactory of IVIeissen is supplied. The serpentine stone, which is turned in the lathe and manufactured into various articles, comes from the quarries at Zoblitz. A hilly stage, through an agree- able country producing coal, brings the traveller to 2 Reichenbach. Inns : — Das Lamm ; — Engel ; — another thriving manufacturing town ; it has 4500 inhabitants, who are chiefly employed in the manufacture of muslin, and in spinning and weaving cotton and wool into kerseymeres, merinos, flan- nel, and '■ English thread." A fire in 1 8,33 destroyed a great part of the town. 2i Plaiten. [ Inns : Post ; — Deutsches Haus ; — neither very good.] A town of 7000 inhabitants, also deriving prosperity from manu- factures of linen, cotton, and muslin. It is irregularly built on uneven ground, and is traversed by the stream of the Elster, which waters a romantic valley, and i)roduces pearls ; a royal fishery is established at Oels- nitz for collecting them. The old Castle (called Rath- schauer), rising high above the town, was in ancient times the residence of the Bailifl", ovVoigt ( Advocatusregni), from whom the surrounding district got the name of Voigtlaml ; it is now converted into public ofHces. U Klein Zobern. Aliout four miles beyond this station, the road crosses the frontier of Saxony into Bavaria. \\ Hof. Inns: Ilirsch; — Bran- denburger Hof. Tliis is the first Bavarian town ; it contains 7000 in- habitants, and possesses important manufactures of cotton and woollen goods. Its situation is so elevated, that only the hardier kinds of fruit come to perfection. The country around is bleak and barren, the rock is primary limestone, abounding in fossils, and there are many iron mines in the district. The town of Ilof was burnt down for the tenth time recorded in its annals, in 1832, and consequently a large part is newly built, A handsome church was erected in 1833. The frontiers of Saxony, Rcuss, Prussia (the town of Gefiill is Prussian), and Bohemia, are not more than ten miles distant from Hof; an extensive smuggling trade is carried on with Bohemia. Eilwagens go from hence to Leip- sig, Dresden, Nuremberg, and Eger. 2| IMiinchberg. Inn, Post, situ- ated in the outskirts of this small town. The road now skirts along the western spurs of the mountain chain called Fichtelgebirge, which forms the wall of separation between Bavaria and Bohemia. The highest summits are the Schneeburg, 3680 feet, and the Ochsenkopf, 3623 feet high ; they are situated a i^i^v miles on the cast of Gefrees. At their roots lie the sources of the Main, Saale, and Eger. 2| Berneck. Inns : Post ; — Lowe. A small town in a narrow valley communicating with that of the White Main. On the heights above are seen the ruins of the once formi- dable castle of the Knights of Wal- lenrode, destroyed in the Hussite war. See Handbook for South Ger- many, Route CLXX. 2 Baireuth. — Inns: Anker; — Sonne : — Wilder ]Mann. This place is described in the Handbook for S. Germany, Route CLXX. 2 Creussen. 2 Pegnitz. 2 Leupoldstein. 3 Eschenau. 2^ NuKEMiiEUG. Handbook for S. Germany, Route CLXVII. ROUTE XCL THE ERZGEBIRGE. LEirSIG TO CARLSBAD. 19 German miles = 91 J Eng. miles. An eilwagen goes as far as Zwickau. N. B. It is advisable to have the sig- Saxony. route XCII. — cassel to eisenach. 421 nature of an Austrian minister on the passport before commencing this jour- ney. The milling district of the Erzge- birge (ore mountains) disphiys few of the beauties of nature on its surface. Her bounty has here been expended below ground, where she has stored away, for the use of man, vast sup- phes of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. Tlie soil is poor, vegeta- tion is scanty, and is furtiier checked in the vicinitj' of the mines by the va- pours from smelting- furnaces; and the face of the country is disfigured by hillocks of rubbish and heaps of slag. 3 Borna. — Inn, Post. 2 Altcnhurg Inns : Stadt Gotha ; — Hirsch. The capital of the duchy of Saxe Altcnburg, has 13,000 inha- bitants. 'I'lie Palace ( Schloss), on a height, consists of 2 parts : the older ■was built in the XII Ith century : out of one of its apartments the Robber Knights, Kunz of Kaufungen, and William von Mosen, stole the two young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, in 1445. The Gothic church is worth notice. The ducal family reside in the modern part, built in the XVIIth centry. The Damm is the name of an agreeable promenade. The inhabitants of Altcnljurg are distinguished by their very peculiar and old-fashioned costumes handed down to them by their ancestors. The petticoats of the women reach no fur- ther than the knee, and their heads are surmounted by a conical cap of portentous dimensions. Near Alten- burg and Gera the Saxon tin-mines are situated. 4 Zwickau, on the high road from Dresden to Nuremberg, p. 419. 2J Schneeberg. — Inns: Siichsischer Hof; — Der Ring ;— Goldene Sonne. An important mining town of fiOOO inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the mines, and in preparing the ores of silver, cobalt, &c. obtained from them. There is also a considerable manufac- tory of smalt here. The Parish Church is a very fine building, and contams some ancient paintings. Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs found on the mountains of the Erzgebirgc, taken as common snuff, is said to be good for sore eyes, and to cure headaches. In the neighbour- hood are the picturesque castles of Stein, Eiscnberg, and Wiesenburg. IJ Eibenstcck. A mining town of 4400 inhabitants ; in and about it are furnaces, founderies and tin mines. 11 Johann Georgenstadt (vulgarly called HansgiJrgenstadt). — Inns .- Rathskeller; — Schiesshaus. A min- ing town, named after the Elector John George, in whose reign it was built as an asylum for the protestants driven out of Bohemia by Ferdinand II., 1654. It has about 3400 inha- bitants. It stands in a rough and very elevated district, a sort of Saxon Siberia, whose produce lies beneath the barren surface, and consists of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, bismuth, uranium, &c. The men arc chiefly miners, the women employ themselves in making bobbinct. The distance from this to the Bohemian frontier is not more than | a mile. 4 Carlsbad is described in the Handbook for South Germany ( Route CCLX). The nearest road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by Joachim- sthal, Annaberg, and Freiberg. ROUTE XCII. CASSEL TO EISENACH, SIEININGEN, AND COBUKG. 26J German miles = 129.^ English miles. 2i Helsa. lA Walburg. 1^ Bischausen. 1| Netra. 3 Eisenach. Route LXXXVI. From Eisenach the road runs nearly S., traversing a hilly district, almost entirely covered with the woods of the great Thuringian Forest. Itsurmounts one of the highest ridges of the dis- trict, at the pass of Hohe Sonne. On 422 ROUTE XCII. — CASSEL TO EISENACH. Sect. VII. the opposite descent lies Wilhelmsthal, a chateau of the Dukcof SaxeWeimar. At Gumpelstadt a road turns ofF to the I. to the Baths of Liebenstein, charmingly situated on the skirts of the Thuringian Forest. Travellers may be well accommodated, in the Badhaus or Herzogliche Gasthaus, and in the Neubau. The court of Saxe Meinengen passes a portion of the bath season here, in the build- ing called Fiirstenhaus. The spring furnishes one of the strongest cha- lybeate waters in Germany, more used for bathing than drinking. Liebenstein affords the usual amuse- ments of a watering-place, daily music on the walks, balls, concerts, gaming-tables, and theatrical per- formances during the season. A little way behind the baths is the ErdfaUi a deep recess in the mountain side, piled round with masses of rock, somewhat resembling a colossal Cy- clopean wall, overgrown at the top with trees, so as to form an agreeable retreat in hot weather. Pleasant walks lead from thence along the heiglits to the Old Castle of Liehenstein, the cradle of tlie family of Saxe Meining- en. It is founded on the rock, and parts of its foundation walls fill up the chasms in the limestone. Its towers command a delightful view over the forests of Thuringia, along the vale of the Werra, and as far as the Ilhongebirge. About 3 miles from Liebenstein is the Duke of Saxe Meiningen's chateau Altenstehi, very finely situated on the brow of a hill, with a grass plat and fountain in front, and sur- rounded by a beautiful park. A crucifix isplanted on a projecting rock, marking, according to tradition, the spot from which St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, preached Christ- ianity to the pagan inhabitants of the country. Half an hour's walk froin the castle, in the midst of the forest, but not far from the road, stands "Luther's Buche," (Luther's beech,) so called from the tradition that it was beneath it that the bold Reformer, on his return from Worms, after the Papal bull had been uttered against him, was surprised by a party of armed men in masks, who mounted him on their horses, and carried him away a prisoner to the castle of Wartburg. This surprise was concerted by his friend and patron the Elector Frede- rick the Wise of Saxony. It is a magnificent tree, 6 ft. in diameter, overtopping all the rest of the forest. At Gllicksbrunn, a village half way between Liebenstein and Alten- stein, is one of the most remarkable of the Cavernt in which tlie limestone (dolomite) of this district abounds. A good road leads from Lieben- stein to Schmalkalden, about 10 miles distant. This ancient and unaltered town, of 5400 inhabitants, still pre- serves its double row of antique ram- parts, and its fosse. Its houses are mostly built of wood, with timber framework, and, like those of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a highly pic- turesque character. Most of its in- habitants are smiths, and follow their trade in shops on the ground floor. In the Market-place stand the Go- thic Church and the two chief inns — Adler and Krone both very bad. In the latter the famous Protestant lear/ue of Schmalkald was signed, 1531. In the Sanncrsche Haus, the articles of the League were drawn up by Luther, Melancthon, Agricola, and other di- vines. That confederation was of the highest consequence to the cause of the Reformation, and proved so dis- couraging to its opponents, that no one dared mention Schmalkald in the presence of the Emperor Charles V. On a height above the town rises the old Electoral castle, WiJhdmshurg. The valley in which Schmalkald stands may be regarded as one great smithy j its inhabitants are chiefly workmen in metal, cutlers, makers of gimlets, &c. The iron ore is supplied from numer- ous mines in the vicinity. Below the town are extens,ive salt-works. To return to the high road from Saxon I/. ROUTE XCII. COBURG. 423 Eisenach. — The road from Gumpel- stadt descends into the pretty valley of the Werra, on whose right bank lies 2i Barchfcld. 2 Scliwallungen. 2 Meiniiigen. — Tnns : Sachsischer Hof ; Ilirsch. A town of 5500 in- habitants, built in the form of a harp, on the riglit bank of the Werra, and encircled by wooded liills. It is the capital of the Ducliy of Saxe Mein- ingen, and residence of the Duke, who is brother of the Queen Dowager of England. The principal building is the Palace, containing various col- lections of art and natural history. There is an agreeable Park, and gar- dens attached to it. 2 Tliemar. — Inn, Post. 1~ Ilildburghausen. Tnns: Eng- lisches Ilausj Siichsisches Haus. Tlie Palace was, down to 1826, the resi. dence of the Dukes of Saxe Hild- burghausen, until the extinction of the line of Gotlia, when thoy re- moved to Altenburg, and Hildburg- bausen was united to Meiningen . The town contains about 4000 inhabitants, — many Jews. It is a lifeless place ; the older quarter is of considerable antiquity. 1^ Rodach. 2 Coburg. • — Inn: Weisser Schwan. This is one of the residence towns of the Duke of Saxe- Coburg- Gotha ; the other being Gotha. It numbers about 9500 inhabitants. The Palace called Ehrenburg, built 1549, con- tains a collection of pictures, and " some very handsome apartments. One suite of five rooms are adorned witli figures, fruit, and flowers, in alto-relievo, white and gold. The finest of all, the Salle des Geantes, so called from some colossal caryatides which surround its walls, is now used as a state banqueling-room. Tliese figures were formed by reducing a light wood to a thin saw-dust or powder, mixed with some kind of cement, and cast in a mould. These casts are so light, that they are attached without diflSculty to the walls and ceilings, giving a most extraordinary appearance of relief. There are some fine specimens of Marqueterie in the doors, and Coburg is to this day cele- brated for that manufacture." " In the Tlieatre, German operas and plays are acted on alternate nights ; the establishment belongs to the Duke, under whose management it is ex- tremely well conducted. " The ancient Castle of the Dukes of Coburg is situated on a command- ing eminence overhanging the town ; the views from it extend over the Thuringerwald as far as the Franco- nian Switzerland. It is partly con- verted into a Prison and a House of Correction ; but some of the chambers remain in their original condition. The rooms occupied by Luther, the bedstead he slept upon, during his concealment here, and the pulpit from which he preached in the curious old Chapel, are shown. There is much valuable armour here, that deserves to be arranged. The Castle was besieged by Wallenstcin in the XXX. years war. lie made the town of Coburg his head quarters for some time. Out- side the walls may still be seen the re- mains of the chains to which the limbs of a traitor, who attempted to betray the place, were hung in full view of the besieging army ; Wallenstein was at length compelled to raise the siege. " Among tl)e many country-houses belonging to the Duke, the Hunting seats of Rosenau and Calemberg most deserve notice for the elegant style in which they are fitted up, and the beauty of their situation. The parks and forest around them abound in game of every description. " The Court of Coburg and the whole of the Duke's establishment are maintained very handsomely, and Englislimen who have repaired tliither recommended to his notice, have every reason to remember the kindness and hos2)itality which they have received." _ jr. The Duke (it will be remembered) 424- )UTE XCIII. GOTTIXGEN TO GOTHA. Scct. VII. is the elder brother of King Leopold and of H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent. ROUTE XCIII. GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA AND COBURG. 26 German miles = 123i English miles, a macadamised road : About a mile from Heiligenstadt, the Prus- sian frontier is crossed, and travellers are subjected to rather a strict search. 33. Heiligenstadt. — Inns : Post, good ; Deutsches Haus. See Route LXI V. This was formerly capital of the district called Eichsfeld. 2 Dingelstadt. Q^ Mulhausen. — Inns: Schwan ; Kbnig von Preussen. An ancient vailed town of 10,000 inhabitants, pleasantly situated in the midst of a very fertile country on the Unstrut. It was anciently a free city of the empire. The Hauptkirche in the Oberstadt is the finest church. Miin- zer, the fanatic preacher, who excited the Thuvingian peasants to revolt in 15'24-2o,made INIiilhausen his head quarters, and collected around him a misguided host of 30,000 men, expell- ing the legitimate magistrates. His undisciplined bands, however, were soon dispersed in the battle of Fran- kenhausen, he himself was brought hither a prisoner, and after being tortured, was publicly executed. In his mad harangues he equally abused Luther and the Pope. 2^ Langensalza. — Inns : ]Mohr ; Sonne. An industrious manufacturing town, will) a population of 7000. About 2 miles out of the town, is a saline-sulpliureous spring of some re- putation, supplying Baths, much re- sorted to in summer. 2 Goth A. — In Route LXXXVI. 2 OhrdrulT. — Inn, Anker. A con- siderable town of the TImringerwald, containing 3500 inhabitants. The road now begins to ascend the liighest ridge of theTliuringian mountains, by easy traverses, admirably constructed. 2 Oberhoff"; "a solitary post-iiouse and inn, built by the present Duke, to accommodate the numerous hunting suite who annually accompany him to his Imnting-seat near this. The forest here may almost l)e called prima;val, the pines often attaining the height of 280 feet. It yields a yearly revenue of jt" 100,000 in building-timl)er alone. Game of every description abounds ; the red deer are of an enormous size; and that elsewhere rare bird the bustard occurs here in great numbers. Between 700 and 800 stags are killed every year. The Duke has other hunting lodges in the forest, he is allowed to have the finest chasse in Germany, and is greatly addicted to sporting, which he maintains in a very- handsome style." — W. Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road attains its highest elevation. The view here is truely magnificent, over a great extent of this noble forest, the dark abysses of its valleys, and its mountains clad with pines, except their often craggy summits. From this point we descend to 2 Suhl. — Inn, Krone. The prin- cipal town of the Prussian county of Henneberg ; it contains a population of 7118 inhabitants, who are chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, or gun- smiths. The town is romantically situated in the valley of tlie Lauter, at the base of the Domberg, a peak of which, the Ottilienstein appears to overhang it, and commands a fine view. This road is important as a line of com- munication between N. and S. Ger- many ; and thereismuch trafficof mer- chandise up- on it. The latter part of it is describ- ed in Route xcir. Schleussingen. Heldlurghausen, Rodach. CoBURG. Saxony. route XCIV. — Leipzig to coburg. ROUTE XCIV. 425 LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BT JEKA, RUDOL- STADT, AKD SONNESEEKG. 25:j German miles =120 English miles. 6| Xaumburg, in Route LXXVI. 2 Hamburg, on the Saal. It was through the defile in the rear of the castle of Dornburg that tiie French inarched to outHank the Prussians at tlie battle of Jena, 180C. Bad road. U J, a native artist, the principal siib- Ject being St. Boniface preaching Christianity to the Germans, witli two allegorical figures of Italy and Ger- many at the sides. '-'. The Senlteyiherp Museum of \a- tiiriil History (close to the picturesque Ksclienlicim Gate, a building of the XlVth century) contains very good collections in the various branches of natural history, tolerably w-ell ar- ranged. Many very rare specimens, not to be found in other museums, were brought to Europe by the en- terprising traveller, lliippel, a native of l-'raukfort, from Egypt, Nubia, the shores of the lied Sea, and Abyssinia. They are the result of several arduous and interesting journeys undertaken by him, at his own expense, for the benefit of this museum. A small aiuiuity has been settled on him for life !)y the city of Frankfort since his return. The Museum is opened to the public gratis, twice a week, for L' hours. Wednesday, 2 to 4 ; Friday, 11 to ] . IMembers have access every afternoon. A small fee to the keeper will procure admission for a stranger, at almost any time, to this and the ))receding collection. Driniucker's Slritue of Ariadne, in the -garden of Mr. Bethman, near tile Friedburg Gate, is the pride and boast of Frankfort, and deserves to be ranked among the most distinguished productions of modern art. The artist, whose works arc little known in lOngland, is a native of AViirtemburg. The statue is usually shown from 10 to ] daily. A very pretty reduced copy of the Ariadne in bronze may be had of Ililec. (See next page.) Near this garden stands the monii- niciit erected by the King of Prussia to the memory of the Hessian soldiers killed in the siege of Frankfort, 1792. T/ie Public Library, in a very hand- some new building, facing the Main, close to the Ober Main Thor, is a useful collection of books. It pos- sesses a copy of the first Bible of Gu- temberg, the inventor of printing (date 1450 — 55); a pair of Luther's shoes, and his portrait, formerly kept in the lliimer. The Library is open Tues- day and Thursday, 11 to 12. Wed- nesday and Friday, 2 to 4. The poet Gcithe was born at Frank- fort, in the house marked F. No. 74. in the Hirsch-grahen. His father's coat of arms, which, by a curious co- incidence, bears the poetical device of ,*} lyres, still remains over the door. Frankfort is also the cradle of the Rothschild fiimihj ; the house in which they were born is in the Judcngasse, (.Tews' Street); which reminds one, in its appearance, of IMonmouth Street in London. It is still inhabited by the mother of the Rothschilds, who has refused to abandon the venerable roof-tree of her humble and confined dwelling, though she might exchange it for a palace hard by. The Jews, who form no inconsider- able portion of the community here, have, till very lately, been treated with great illiberality by the free town. The gates of the quarter to whicli they were exclusively confined, were closed upon them at an early hour every night, after which ingress and egress were alike denied. This arbi- trary municipal regulation was in- forced, until Marshal Jourdan, in bombarding the town (1706), knocked down the gate of the Jews' quarter, along with many houses near it, and they have not been replaced since. Another tyrannical law, not repealed until 1S34, restricted the number of marriages among the Hebrews in the town to I. 3 yearly. The Jews have a very handsome Synagogue, in their own quarter, which deserves to be visited by all those who have not previously seen a Jewish place of worship. Baron llothschild's vilia, outside the Bockenheim gate, is fitted up with taste, elegance, and 446 ROUTE XCV.—. FRANKFORT ON THE MAIN. Sect. VIII. splendour ; strangers applying at the Baron's house in the town, are some- times admitted to see it : tlie garden attached to it is richly stored with rare plants, and is very neatly kept. The principal business carried on at Frankfort is, banking and jobbing in the funds. The exchange is held in a building called Bravnfcls. Fraiikfort has hitherto been, to a certain extent, a staple place, or entre- pot, for central Europe, receiving the productions and manufactures of all parts of the world, to distribute them in detail over the whole Continent. In 1836, it acceded to the Prussian custom-hou^se league § 30.), which may, perhaps, influence the extent of its commercial transactions in future. The free town is governed by a senate of its own, considerably influenced, however, by Austria and Prussia. Down to 1833, it was garrisoned by troops in the pay of the city, and by its own burgher guard ; but the dis- turbances caused at that time by some riotous students rendered it neces- sary to call in the aid of Austrian and Prussian soldiers, who still maintain their position as guardians of public tranquillity. The territory of Frankfort docs not inuch exceed 10 English square miles in extent; its limits are marked l)y ancient watch-towers erected on the high roads. The Diet meets to deliberate at the residence of the Austrian ambassador, who is likewise its president, in the building, formerly the palace of the Prince of Thiirn and Tfi.rix. Ministers from Great Britain, and almost all the states of Europe, reside here ; and travellers going to Austria or Italy should not neglect this oppor- tunity of having their passport pro- perly vise. The office of British Co))siil is most worthily filled by ^fr. Koch, one of the most eminent citizens and bankers in Frankfort. Of the multitude of English travellers who annually visit Frankfort, there are few who cannot bear personal testimony to the urban- ity and kindness of Mr. Koch. The Enr/lish Service is performed once every Sunday, at 12 o'clock, in the French Protestant Church. The Theatre is very respectable in its orchestra and performers ; it is usually open 5 days in the week : it begins at 6, and ends at 9. The Post- Office is in the Zeil, nearly opposite the Hotel de Russie. The Cassino is one of the best clubs (§ 40. ) in Germany ; nearly 1 00 differ- ent papers are taken in ; among them most of the French papers, Galignani's iNIt ssenger, the Times, and one or two other English Journals. Strangers are liberally admitted upon the intro- duction of a member, and even ladies on certain days. The shop of Mr. Jiigel, the hook- seller, opposite the great guard-house, is a pleasant lounge. Besides guide- books, maps, and views likely to be useful and interesting to travellers, there are usually some very tolerable pictures, or other objects of art, for sale here. Mr. Jiigel is the Galignani of Frankfort ; he speaks English, and is very civil and obliging in furnishing all sorts of information to strangers. Mr. Jiigel has another shop under the H. de Russie, provided with various objects of art and literature, together with stationery of all kinds. — Galignani's Messenger, and one or two French papers are taken in here for tlie benefit of strangers. Mr. Wilmans shop possesses similar ad- vantages. SteiffcrwalfPs Bohemian glass sho]), in the Zeil, opposite the post-oftice, is one of file most sjdendid in the town; the Bohemian manufacture of coloured glass surpasses any tiling made in England. The shop of Ihl<^e and Co., Zeil, No. D. 190., will furnish many toys and trinkets for jiresents. The reliefs cut in stag's horn, ( Hirschhorn), after the manner of a cameo, are very pretty. They are made in the neighbouring villaije of Bockenheim. The bronze Sect. VIII. HOUTE XCVI. FRANKFORT ox THE MAIX. 4i7 mountains and Homburg f Route XCVII.); two miles above Frank- fort on the Main, lies Offenbach, a flourishing, industrious town, where good travelling. carriages are made, cheaper than the English, but not quite so good. jDr. Becker, at Offenbach, receives into his liouse a number of English youths, to superintend their general education, and instruct them in Ger- man. His own extensive acquire- ments, and the amiable character of his domestic circle, render his house an agreeable, as well as profitable re- sidence. The Prince of Thurn and Taxis enjoys the right of managing the posts of some of the minor German states. His head post-office is at Frankfort. The Diligence and Eilwagen Office is removed to the Zeil, next door to the H. de Russie. Eilwagen go from Frankfort daily to Leipsig in "8 hours, -^^^— Coblenz - 12 — Basle - 48 — through copy of the Ariadne of Dauneker is to be had here. There is a similar shop at the corner of the Liebfraneu- berg, kept by Wendel. /. /. H'eiler on the WoUgraben (Let. A. No. 36.), not far from the bridge, is a respectable money-changer. Public Gardens. — The agreeable belt of gardens and pleasure-grounds which encircles the town of Frankfort, is one of its most pleasing features, being equally ornamental to it, and a source of recreation to its inhabitants. No stranger should omit to visit them. They occupy the site of the ancient fortifications, which had proved, on several occasions, a detriment rather tlian an advantage to the town, by subjecting it to the misery of sieges and bombardments. The Garden of Main Lvst, below the town, on the river side, is much frequented, on summer evenings, by people of the better classes, who dine, sup, or take their ice or coffee, listen- ing to a good band of music. The New Cemetery (Neu Fried- hof ), about a mile from the walls, is worth visiting (§ 41.). Thespot com- mands a charming view of Frankfort, and the Taunus. Among the monu- ments under the arcade at the upper end, is one recently raised to mem- bers of the Bethman family, decorated with beautiful bas-reliefs, by Thor- waldsen ; they are well worth notice. The Frankfort Fairs are held at Easter, and 3 weeks before Michael- mas. They are less important than formerly. While they last, and during the week preceding their commence- ment, the inns in the town are thronged to excess, so tliat it is difficult to ob- tain accommodation. The articles exposed for sale are, almost without exception, inferior to English manu- facturesjbut at the same time cheaper; about one fifth of the booths are pipe- shops ! Many pleasant excursions may be made from Frankfort : 1. to Wies- baden and the Brunnen of Nassau (Route XCV.); 2. to the Taunus Darmstadt, Heidelberg, and Carlsruhe, daily, to Baden and Strasburg ; V> times a day to Mayence ; 3 times a week to Hesse Cassel ; once a week to Vienna by Nuremberg, starting on Thursday, and arriving on the follow- ing Tuesday. ROUTE XCVI. GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, AND DESCENT OF THE LAHX, TO WEILBCKG, LIMBURG, AKD Ejrs. 14 Germ, miles = 60 Eng. miles. A schnellpost runs twice a week. Giessen lies on the high road from Frankfort to Cassel. (Route LXX. p. 339.) Our road follows the left bank of the Lahn as far as 2 Wetzlar. — Inn. Das Herzog- liche Haus, tolerable, and civil people. This was anciently a {ree imperial town, and seat of the Im- perial Chamber, from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace of Paris, it, together us ROUTE XCVI. THE RIVER LAHN. SeCt. VIII. witli the isolated territory attached to it, was made ever to the King of Prussia. It is old and badly built, but is charmingly situated in the Lahn valley, and has about 5500 inhabit- ants. It derives its chief celebrity from being the scene of Giithe's ro- mance, The Sorrows of Werthor. The author has described, under the name of ?r«//(f/m, tile village of Garbenheim, 2 miles distant. Tlie lovers bade adieu to each other in Hinkel's coffee gardens. Ciiarlotte's well is pointed out in the town, and Wcrther's grave is near the Wildbach gate. The French general Hoche died at Wetz- lar, of consumption. 2 miles below Wetzlar, is the fine Gothic church of Altenberg, recently restored, origin- ally attached to a convent. It con- tains curious monuments. The next stage lies at some distance from the river, passing the town of Braunfels ; on the height above is the Chuteaii of the family of Solms Braun- fels. Immediately beyond it the Prussian territory ends, and that of Nassau begins. 3 Weilberg (/?»?, Traube,excellent) is beautifully situated on a high bank above the river, and has a Castle, anciently the residence of the Ducal family of Nassau Weili)urg, re- moved since the extinction of the line of Nassau Usingen, to Biberich. In the vicinity there is an extensive park. The view of Weilburg is surpassed by few scenes in N. Germany, the principal features being the old castle of the Dukes of Nassau on a rock, the bridge, and the winding river. There is a road from hence to Frank- fort by Homburg, 8 German miles = 38.^ Eng. miles. This part of the valley of the Lahn is called the ll'i-ifcrau ,- it is picturesque, enclosed by wooded liills, and is interesting to the geo- logist. It was formerly partitioned out between the 4 reigning houses of Solms, Isenburg, Nassau, and Kcinigstein. On the way to Lim- burg the ancient town and castle of Iluukel are p.issed ; and lower down is the old church of Dietkirchcn, standing on a rock, and containing bones of St. Matthew and St. Luben- tius, as it is reported. 3 Limhurg ( Inns : Post ; — Nas- sauer Hof ), a very ancient town on the Lahn. The superb Cathedral of St. George towers pre-eminently above the other buildings. It was originally founded 909, but the existing edifice is not older than the end of the X I Ith or beginning of the Xlllth century. Its architecture is particularly interesting, as it exhibits the latest character of the Byzantine style, mixed with the com- mencement of the pointed Gothic. The views of the winding Lahn from this church and from the picturesque bridge, and that of the church itself from a mill on the bank of the river, are very fine. Limburg is connected by good macadamised roads with Frankfort, 8^ German miles (Route XLVa-); and Wiesbaden, 6 German miles. Nieder Selters is about 9 miles off. At Limburg the high road crosses and quits the Lahn. 3 Montebauer, a very picturesque spot ; this stage lies through pretty country all the wav to 3 CoBLEXz. iloule XXXVII. p. 245. The Lahn between Limburg and Ems is very picturesque and well worth exploring ; but the road along this part of its course is a cross road, and barely practicable for English car- riages only in the height of summer. Diitz, 3 miles from Limburg, " is remantically situated on tlie Lahn, which is crossed by a bridge, erected full 600 years ago. From the top of the hill, after passing the bridge, is a fine view of the town and of the environs, including Limburg. The pedestrian having climbed this height, should make a circuit to the left, and cither passing a small bridge at a distance, or returning to the en- trance of the town, he should cross the road, and take a i)ath which leads up to a pavilion, from which the })ro- Xassau. route XCVII. — the taukus mountains. 449 spect is lovely- He should then tra- A erse tiie woods to the left, descending through an avenue of noble trees, when he will come suddenly on the palace of Oranienstein (belonging to tlie Duke of Nassau): following tlie course of the Lahn, he will find him- self again at Dietz, after a delightful walk of three hours," — Dates and jyi.stanecs. At Dietz, a good boat with two loweis may be hired for 16 fl. to descend tlie Lahn to Ems. The M-indings of the river make the dis- tance nearly double tint by the high road ; the passage takes up G hours. It is described as agreeable, though at first the scenery (not unlike that of the Wye), exhibits a sameness of beauty, the hills on both sides being covered with wood, and not distin- ^uishcd by much variety of shape ; Ijut the numerous villages and ruined castles on its banks contribute to em- bellish the views. A few miles below Dietz arc the two famous mineral springs of Fachingen on the left, and Geilnau on the right bank of the I^ahn. Many thousand bottles of the water are exported annually : it is very like that of Selters. At a little disUuicc from the Lahn, on its left bank, are the castles of Bahhtiiistcin, built by a bishop of Treves; and Scliaumberg, the residence of the I'rinces of Anhalt-Bernberg, and Sc/inumberg. A mile beyond Geil- nau, and about 14 from Ems, is JTolzapfel, a small town. On the liigli road, not far from it, close to the river, stood the castle of Laurenburg, the original residence of the Nas- sau family, who bore the name of founts of Laurenburg down to the n:iddle of the Xllth century. Fur- tiicr on are the villages of Obernhof and Langenau, with a castle of the same name on the top of a hill. The ruined Ahheij of Arnstein, standing conspicuous on the side of a moun- tain, on the left bank of the river, op- jjosite Langenau, presents a splendid anil pictures(jue front to the gaze of tlie passenger. It was the feudal seat of a long line of counts, the last of wlioin, Louis of Arnstein, having no son, married and portioned oft' his seven daughters, dividing among them a part of his estates ; then converting his castle into a convent, he endowed it with the rest of his property, and finally became a monk himself. 3.1 Xassau. — See Route XC\'. p. 431. From Nassau the traveller may either return by land to Schwalbach, or continue his voyage down the Lahn to Ems, and from tlience into the Rhine at Coblenz. P. 431. 1 Ems, p. 429. ROUTE XCVIL THE TAUXIIS MOUNTAINS, TROJI WIES- BADEN TO FRANKFORT, BV EPrSTEIN, K(JSIGSTEIK, AND HOMBURG. The eastern extremity of the Tau- nus, though little known to English tourists, would well repay those who might be tempted to explore it. This part of the chain presents in its narrow- pastoral valleys, clear purling streams, and wooded heights, scenery of the utmost beauty, differing from that nearer to the Rhine in its character of sylvan solitude, and perhaps sur- passing it in variety. The district here referred to might be nearly in- cluded within a triangle drawn be- tween the towns of Wiesbaden, Frank- fort, and Homburg. lioads. — The post road from Wies- baden to Frankfort passes consider- ably to the S. of these hills: that from Frankfort to Limburg runs througli it. With this exception the roads are scarcely practicable for an English carriage, though passable, with some difficulty, for a light Ger- man caleche. Tlie best mode of ex- ploring this country is on horseback or on foot, as the beauties of many of its valleys will be lost to tliose who confine themselves to carriages and the high roads. Tliose ■»\lio do not mind jolting over rough roads, may 450 ROUTE XC VII. — THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. Scct. VIII. indeed approach them in a country car, and tlicn with tlie aid of a p;uide penetrate into their recesses on foot. Two or three days may be profitably dcToted to this excursion : a stout pe- destrian might walk in one day from Wiesbaden to Frankfort, by Eppstein and Konigstein, but it is better to devote at least two to it. There is no carriage road direct from AViesbaden to Konigstein. Tra- vellers must either hire horses or don- keys, and send round their carriage to Kiinigstein, or they may drive thither by submitting to a slight detour, fol- lowing the Frankfort post road as far as Hattersheim, 12 miles. A toler- able country road here turns off to the N. W.,and leads by the side of a rustling mill-stream to the pretty valley of Hofheim, 2 miles distant. The chapel on the height above com- mands a view wliich will well repay the trouble of ascending to it. The valluy of Lorsbach, above Hofheim, as far as Eppstein, 7 miles is very beautiful indeed. A bridle road conducts direct from Wiesbaden to Eppstein, a distance of 10 miles. It passes up the valley of Sonnenl)crg, by Rambach, Nauroth, and Bremthal. There is another way by Lindenthal, Hessloch, and Aurin- gen, but the first is preferred. Eppstt'in, a small village, where re- freshments may be obtained at the inn of the oil mill, is delightfully situ- ated at the point of junction of 4 dif- ferent valleys. It is thus described ■by the author of " An Autumn near the Rhine :" — " Tliis village is one of the most wild sequestered abodes of man I ever saw. Though almost all the moun- tain villages in Germany have the same feudal character in their build- ings and position, I should select Eppstein in preference, as giving the most perfect notion of the secluded fastness of a feudal baron and his vassals. Everything here carries one back to the days of chivalry. The situation of the village, wedged in a narrow defile, between rocks and mount.iins, in the centre of a wild district remote from the habitations of men, and where nothing but the ob- ject of security could induce any mor- tal to pitch his camp, — the solid walls and low portals which inclose about twenty or thirty mean houses — the massy towers and donjons of the old baronial castle, perched like an eagle's nest on the most accessible point of rock overhanging the village, — the winding approach up the mountain, half hid in brushwood, — every thing — transports one back to the thirteenth or fourteenth century ; and a slight stretch of imagination might people the scene with the grim figures of the Count Godefroi, or the Count Eber- hard of Eppstein and his mailed attendants, arriving under the castle turrets from an encounter with a neighbouring knight. The village and its inhabitants have an air of uncivilised and primitive rudeness which does not ill accord with the illusion." The family of Eppstein seems nearly as old as that of Nassau ; many of its members were chancellors of the em- pire and archbishops of Mayence. One of them crowned the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa at Aix-la- Cliapelle, and afterwards was made Patriarch of Jerusalem. The line became extinct in the XVIth cen- tury: several of their monuments still exist in the village church. " The founder of the family was of course a hero : and the report of the neighbourhood is, that a k night , named Eppo, hunting in the forest hard by, heard the sobs and lamentations of a female, whom, on penetrating into the forest, he found seated on a rock by the side of a cave, wiping away her tears with her long tresses, and pour- ing forth bitter lamentations. She told him she was chained there by a giant, who had slain her kindred and carried her away from her father's castle. The giant was absent in the forest, but returned every day to sleep Nassau. route XCVII. — the taukus mountains. 451 at noon on tlie summit of the moun- tain. Sir Eppo vowed to deliver her; and llie lady entreated him to go to her castle in the neighbourhood and procure from the blind warder a ma- gical net hanging up in the hall, which her father had brought as a booty from Palestine. The knight hasted to procure the net, and stretch- ed it on the spot where the giant slept. The lady strewed it over with flowers — the giant lay down in it — was taken, and hurled from the summit of the rock by the knight to the valley be- low. Of course the lady gave her hand to her deliverer. The knight built a castle on the rock, which he calltd Eppstein (Eppo's rock,) and here he dwelt with his bride. To prove the truth of the story, a whale's rib, deposited over the gate- way, is still pointed out as one of the giant's bones." Kiinigstein is about 3 miles from Eppstein j the way thither lies through the i>retty vale of Fischbach. " The whole landscape, the hanging woods, variously tinted by autumn, the jutting rocks, the sombre seques- tered recesses in the glen, and tlie lonely stillness which pervaded the scene, sometimes reminded one of some of the least wild of Salvator's romantic scenes, or of the cool and lovely valleys of Gaspar Poussin." — Autumn near the Rhine. Kijniystein. — Inn: Grilner Baum (Green Tree;) Lowe (Lion;) which has a nice garden attached to it. This village is a post station on the high road from Frankfort to Limburg. .^ibove it, on the height, rises the ruined Cnstle of Konigstein, a modern fortress with bastions and casements, engrafted on a feudal stronghold of the middle ages, with battlements and watcii-towers. It belonged originally to the Counts of Falkenstein, and afterwards to the Barons of Eppstein; was taken by Gustavus Adolphus in the Thirty Years' AVar, and by the French, who dism.-intled it and blew up its works, in 1 796. There is a fine view from it, over the valleys of tlie Maine and Rhine, while the neigh- bouring castles of Falkenstein and Kronberg arc most picturesque objects in the foreground. An excellent carriage-road goes from Kijnigstein to Frankfort, by Soden and Hiichst. Those who travel on foot, or who do not mind rough cross roads may continue on to the Falltenstein, about a mile from Kijnig- stein. This bold and picturesque ruin is an imposing relic of a feudal stronghold and baronial residence of the days of chivalry, and the exquisite view from it renders it one of the most interesting points of the tour. It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a noble family named Nuringen, before it was added to the possessions of the house of Nassau. A young knight, named Kuno of Sayn, once paid his addresses to a fair daughter of the lord of this castle : he was beloved by her, but found no favour with him ; on the contrary, he sternly rejected the lover's suit, and in order to put him off entirely, told him he should have his daughter for wife if he made, in a single night, a road up to his castle (previously accessible only on foot,) which should be practicable for horses or carriages. The old lord looked upon this as an impossibility ; so did every one else, except Kuno. He summoned his head miner, but he also declared it useless to make the attempt. He then repaired to an elf or cobold, who promised to achieve the task, provided Kuno bound himself to leave him in unmolested possession of a certain quarter of the Taunus hills. This condition was agreed to. In the course of the fol- lowing night a violent tempest arose, wliicii laid low the highest trees of the forest ; the castle was shaken to its foundation, as by an earthquake; its doors and windows opened of their own accord; and its inmates were ter- rified by a clanking as of spades and pickaxes borne upon the gale, inter- mixed with shouts of demoniac 452 ROUTE XCVIII. BINGEN TO MAYENCE. Scct. VIII. laii-ihtur. The first thing that the old baioii beheld next morning, was Kuno riding up to the gates in gallant array, on his charger, along a road carried over spots where the night before there was nothing but inacces- sible rocks. He did not forget his promise to the young knight, and gave him Irmingarde for wife. 3 miles S. E. of Konigstein, on the high road to Frankfort, is the watering- place of Soden, well provided with lodging-houses : brine springs rise near it. About 2 miles E. of Kon- igstein, is Cronherg ; a village of about 1400 inhabitants, beautifully situated, surrounded by orchards and nursery gardens. Here is another ruined cas- tle ; its owners, a knightly family, vere engaged in constant feuds with the city of Frankfort. A painting still existing, represents a victory gained by its barons over the burghers of the free city. There is a mineral spring at Kronthal near this to which people resort in summer, and the Kurhaus affords good quarters. The Great Feldberg, the highest of the Taunus mountains, rises itnmedi- ately behind Falkenstein and Cron- berg. The summit 2600 feet above the sea, is accessible for carriages, and is about 3 miles distant. Crowds of tourists assemble on it to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy one of the most extensive panoramic views to be met •with in Germany, including the rivers Rhine and INIain, the great cities and towns on their banks as far as Stras- burg, whose spire is said to be visible in clear weather, and the mountain ranges of the Black Forest, Vosges, Mont Tonuere, Odenwald, and Tau- nus. A huge fragment of quartz rock at the top of the Feldberg, is called Bru- nehilda's bed, from a tradition that a beautiful Frankisli queen of that name took refuge here from her enemies. Upon tlic Altkonig, the nearest neigh- bour, and the mountain next in height to the Feldberg, are remains of an- cient entrenchments, made either by the Romans, or by the aborigines of this coimtry. There is a direct road from Klinig- stein to Frankfort, but the joiu-ney may be agreeably extended by conti- nuing onwards tiirough a pretty country to Oher Vrsel, where the old church is curious, and thence to HoMBURG. — Inn: Hessischer Hof. Is a small town of 3500 inhabitants, remarkable for its charming situation and the beauty of tlie walks around it. A Saline spring lias been discovered here within a few years ; it is said to possess valuable medicinal properties, and will probably soon render Hom- burg a frequented watering-jjlace. The principal building is the Palace, to which is attached a delightful gar- den, pleasure ground, and park, taste- fully laid out in the English fashion under the eye of the Landgravine, the English Princess Elizabeth. They are thrown open to all who choose to enter; the walks through them are most agreeable, nor do they terminate in the park ; since paths have been cut in all directions through the woods and forests around which clothe the sides of the Taunus, so that the wan- derer may penetrate for miles imder the refreshing shade of the forest, and may at last find himself on the sum- mit of some eminence, coinmanding the country far and wide. Tims the variety of walks and rides in the vicinity is almost endless. Hoinburg is only 9 miles distant from Frankfort, p. 443. ROUTE XCVIII. BIXGEN TO MAYENCE, BV INGELHI'IM. 3^ German miles = ICJ English miles. There are 2 roads from Bingen to Maycnce; one along the right bank of the Rhine, described in Iloute XXXVIII. and the following, on the left bank, but at some distance from the river side, which is traversed daily by a schnellpost. On quitting Bingen, it skirts the Darmstadt, S^c. route XCIX. — mayence to Frankfort. 453 baseof the llochusberg, and begins to i ROUTE XCIX. ascend a long but gradual eminence. Mear tlie top stands a small obelisk erected by the French, bearing the in- scription, " Route de Charlemagne, termin'- en I'aii I. du regne de Napo- leon." From this point, and from the heights a little further on, the view is most charming, extending over the Riiine, through the whole of the Rheingau, as far as the distant range of tlic Taunus. In such a situation it Mas tliat Charlemagne built his fa- vourite residence of li IiH/fUtc'iiii, now reduced to a mi- serable village, about li mile from the bank of the Rhine. Some writers suppose that it was the birth-place of Charlemagne ; at least he loved to dwell here, and built himself (7C8 to 774) a magnificent palace, which he decorated with 100 columns of marble and porphyry, and witii rich mosaics, sent to him by Pope Hadrian from Ravenna for that purpose. Tlie site of tiie edifice is now occupied by mud hovels and dung heaps, and partly by a Jews' burying ground. It stood near the smaller of the two churches — the one nearest to Mayence ; and the only relics remaining of it, are a few mutilated fragments of pillars within the church, and a column of granite inserted in a corner of an old ruined gateway. In tlie church is also shown the monument of one of Char- lemagne's four queens, a rudely carved stone, on which a female figure, crowned and in regal attire, is dis- cernible. J'lie ornaments round the stone in the pointed style indicate clearly that it is of a much later time than tlie reign of Charlemagne. Tliese paltry fragments, and a few moulder- ing walls, are all that remain to tell where the palace of the great king stood. — The otl-.cr cluirch on the side of Bingen, with a tall S(]uare tower, is an interesting example of the round- arched Gothic. The red wine of IngelLeim is very toleral)le. 2 Mayence, p. 264. MAVEKCE TO FRANKFORT. 4i German miles = 21| English miles. An eilwagen goes 4 times a day in 3^ or 4 hours. Market boats (markt schill'e) ascend and descend the Maine daily between the two places. The fare is about la. ; but their cheapness is their only recommendation, as they are very slow, requiring 6.^ hours for the voyage ; besides, the banks of the Maine are uninteresting. A Railroad from Frankfort to Mayence was commenced early in 1838, and may jjossibly be opened within the year. It will send out a branch from Kassel to Wiesbaden, and will run by the side of the Maine, through Florsheim, to Hiichst, and thence in a straight line by Ilattcrs- heim to Frankfort, terminating at the St. Gall us Thor. A bridge toll (briickgeld) of 30 kr. is paid for a carriage with 2 horses, in crossing the bridge of boats from Ma- yence to Cassel. Cassel belongs to Hesse Darmstadt; but a little way out of the walls 2 painted posts, by the road side, mark the frontier of Nassau. About 4 miles on the road is Hochheiin, a village on the summit of a hill of moderate elevation. In its immediate vicinity, and along the sunny banks sloping down to the Maine, for a space of 3 miles, are the vineyards which produce the wine called Hocli, — a name improperly given by the English to Uhenish wines. 'I'he best wine is grown in the vine- yards at the back of the Church, which are sheltered from cold winds by the houses of the town. I'hcy were an- ciently the properly of the Chapter of Mayence, or Domdckaney, but now belong to the Duke of Nassau, and are highly valuable. A beautiful view of the Rhine and Maine is seen from this point. 2.'j liattersheim. Mere the road from Wiesbaden joins that from Mayence to Frankfort (Route XCV.). Five 454- ROUTE C. — TilE VALE OF THE NAHE. ScCt. VIII. miles further is the town of Hochst on the Nidda. Tne chief building in it is the deserted Palace of Bolongaro, a rich tobacconist, erected in the last century. The donjon keep of the Castle of Falkenstein is seen in the distance at the foot of the Feldberg, the highest of the Taunus mountains. The lioundary of the territory of Frankfort is marked by an ancient watch-tower on the road. 2 Fkankfokt, a. M. (Route XCV. p. 443.) ROUTE C. THE VALE OF THE NAME BIN'GEN TO KREUTZNACH AND SAA RBRUCK. 18 German miles = 86^ English miles. The road is provided with post- horses, and is macadamised as far as Sobernheim. A schnellpost goes to Kreutznach daily, returning in the afternoon. Anotiier schnellpost goes once or twice a week to Saarbruck and back. The most beautiful scenery of the Nahe is confined to the vicinity of Kreutznach and Oberstein. The Nalie pours itself into the Rhine at Bingen, through a portal formed by the Rochusberg on the right side, and the Rupertsberg on the left, after a course of scarcely 60 miles, during which it bathes the ter- ritories of 6 different sovereigns — Old- enburgh, Saxe Coburg, Hesse Hom- burg, Prussia, Bavaria, and Hesse Darmstadt. The road runs along the left bank of the Naiie, which is Prussian ; the right belongs to Darmstadt ; it passes the villages of Munster, Lanbenheim, and Brezenheim, before it reaches 2 Krentziiach — Inns: Pfiilzer Hof; Adler. A flourishing town of 9000 inhabitants, belonging to Prussia, in a picturesque situation. Kreutznach has l)een much resorted to of late on account of its saline spring, situated on an island J mile above the town. Baths are erected near it within a grove of acacias, and an avenue of l)oplars leads to the spot. There are also brine baths here. There is a carriage road from lience to the top of the RheingTafensteiyi, on the right branch of the Nahe, which commands a fine view up the river, and may be reached in half an hour's time. 2 miles above Kreutznach, on the left bank of the Nahe, are the Salinen, or Saltworks, of Theodores- lialle ; and on the right bank those of Carlshallc, belonging to the Grand Duke of Darmstadt. They consist of a collection of very long sheds, filled with faggots, througli which the salt Mater is made to trickle, after being raised by pumps, in order to evaporate it, and convert it into saturated brine, fit for the boiling house. A mile fur- ther is another extensive saline, called Munster am Stein, built on a flat, nearly encircled by the Nahe, at the foot of the magnificent precipice of retl porphyry 600 feet liigh, which is crowned by the Castle of Rheingraftn- stein, an ancient stronghold of the Rlieingraves, destroyed by the French in 1 689. It is literally perched, like a» eagle's nest, on a pinnacle of the rock, and is accessible from the salt works by a ferry and a very steep foot-path. From a neighbouring and still higher peak, called the Gans (Goose), the best view over the Nahe is obtained. The writer, in 1837, hired a car- riage from the postmaster in Kreutz- nach for 2 dollai-s, which carried liim to within half a mile of the Castle and the Gans, and was sent round to meet liim at Miinster am Stein, on the opposite bank of the Nahe, while he explored the Castle, and descended on foot to ]Munster, crossing the river by the ferry at the foot of the preci- pice to rejoin his carriage. A little above the Rheingrafenstein, at tlie junction of the Alsenz witii the Nahe, rises Ebernberg, a castle which belonged to Franz of Sickingcn, the last of the knights errant, tlie terror of Worms and Frankfurt j who, though I Sect. VIII. ROUTE C. THE VALE OF THE NAHE. 455 but .1 simple knight, besieged Ihe cities of Metz and Treves with an army of 2000 horse and 17,000 foot, bidding defiance to the Emperor. In tliis stronghold he sheltered from perse- cution many of the early reformers, who were his bosom friends. i\Ie- lancthon, Bucer, and CEcolanipadiiis, took refuge here under his roof; and Ulric von Ilulten composed several of his works in this retreat. Its de- fences were so much augmented and strengthened, that it was tliought ca- pable of bidding defiance even to the armies of the empire. After Sickin- geii's death, however, liis castle, though stoutly defended at first, was at length surrendered to the Electors of Hesse and of Treves, who carried off all the spoils, and then burnt it. The valley of the Alsenz contains some pic- turesque scenes and several ruined castles. Near Obermoschel, the quick- silver mine of Eandsberg, though less productive than formerly, is still woiked. Between Obermoschel and Meissenheim there are coal mines, which extend all the way from the Giaii to the borders of the Alsenz ; the quicksilver is also situated in the coal formation. During the next stage from Kreutz- uach the high road quits the side of the Nahe, and leaving these castles, and the salt-works considerably on the left, proceeds direct to Sobernheim, passing on the right of the Castle and Abbey of Sponheim, tlie cradle of one of the uoblest and most ancient fa- milies on the Illiine. A little below Sobernheim the Nahe receives the waters of the Glan. '2\ Sobernheim. Jnii : Bey Adam. A small town with a population of 2300. In the Xth century, the in- habitants, aided by the Pope, who granted them an indulgence for two years, built a bridge over the Nahe ; since then, the river has changed its bed, and left the bridge on dry land. 2\ Kirn. 2\ IJberstein. — Inn, Bey Ctesar. " A small town, beautifully situated on the Nahe, bliut in by high and lo- mantic cliffs, cliielly of porphvry or amygdaloid, abounding in agates, amethysts, &c. of great beauty and variety. The business of cutting and polishing them occupies a considerable number of the inhabitants. The stones are ground and polished by means of grinding stones of red sandstone, moved by water wheels in numerous small mills scattered along the neigh- bouring streams. There are large po- lishing mills at Idar, I.l mile off. Close to Oberstein are two fine precijiitous isolated rocks. On the summit of each are remains of an ancient castle ; one still inhabited by peasants, the other quite a ruin. Immediately under the latter, in the face of the precipice, about ^ of its height above tlie valley, a large cavity has been hollowed out, in which the ancient Lutheran cliurch may be said to be embedded." T. T. It is approached by stairs cut in the rock. The living rock forms the roof and one side of the building ; the otiier side is built up with a wall of masonry, in which are two large win- dows to light the interior. A spring of water gushes out of the floor. The agate manufactory is not so profitable as formerly ; but the locality is interesting to the mineralogist, as, in addition to very fine and large agates, he will here he enabled to col- lect many other rare minerals and crystals, as cliabasite, harmotome, &c. The best collection of agates is in the possession of the burgomaster. The vale of the Nahe loses its beau- ty and interest above Oberstein. The road beyond is not much frequented, only partially macadamised, and not well supplied with post-horses. 2A Birkenfeld, the chief town of the principality of that name, belonging to Oldenburg. It has a comfortable inn, kept by Widow jNIedicus. A cross country road, very rough, not macadamised nor provided with post-horses, kads over the bleak high land of the Hochwald, from Birken- feld, by Hernieskeil, 'J> Germ, miles. ^56 llOUTE CI. — MAYENCK TO METZ. Sect. VIIJ. to Treves, 4 Germ, miles = about 32 Eng. miles. 3^ St. Wendel. \\ Otlweiler. Friuderichstlial. 4 Suurhruchvn. — Inns : Post, D;ir. A Prussian town of G.500 inliabitants, on the Saar, connected by a bridge with the suburb of St. Joliann. Tlie Schloss was for a long time the re- sidence of the Princes of Nassau. A schnellpost goes 3 times a week from hence to Treves and back. ROUTE CI. MAYEKCE TO METZ. 21 i German miles and 7^ French posts =146 English miles. A diligence goes daily in 31 hours, a mallcpost in less. This road was made by Napoleon, to open a direct communication be- tween r\Iayence and Paris, and thence is called the Imperinl road (Kaiser Strasse). li Niederolm. H Vv'orrstadt. ]i Alzey. — Tn»s : Darmstlidter Hof; Poste; zum Kaiser. A very an- cient town (3500 inhabitants), known to the Romans as Altiaia. The distle, an extensive ruin, was destroyed by the French in 1689. The road quits Hesse Darmstadt and enters Bavaria at tlie village of jNIorschlieim. l:'i KirchiieimBoland. — Inn: Poste. A town of 3200 inliabitants, having iron works in its vicinity. The Mont Tonnerre (Donners- bcrg), is about 6 miles distant. The road leaves it on the right, winding round its base. It is mentioned by Tacitus, who c.illed it Muns Joris. During the French domination it gave the name to a department, of wliich IMaycnce was the chief town. The mountain is 20D0 Par. ft. above the sea, and is composed of porphyry : the view from it is not so fine as that from the Mcelibocus on the opposite side of the Rhine. \\ StandL>l>ii!il. A few miles to the E. lies Gol- heim, where the Emperor Adolpiuis of Nassau was slain by the lance of his rival the Emperor Albert, I'iitS. 2 Seinbach. \\ Kaiserslautern. — Inns: IJon- nersberg Hotel, very good ; IJaierisclie Hof, dear ; — Die Poste. A town of 6.J00 inhabitants, in a very pretty situation. Its antiquity is very great. The Emperor I)ari)arossa built a strong castle here, which was destroyed by the French in the War of the Suc- cession. 1'hree successive engage- ments took place near this in 179:5-91, between tlie French and Germans, in which the last gained some advantage. The Church of Olterberg, a little t and repeated all the wanton acts of atrocity and cruelty which their pre- decessors had enacted a century be- fore. Previous to the siege of 1G83, the town had 5 suburbs enclosed within ramparts, 13 gates, and 64 towers of defence provided witJi artil- lery. After twice sufl'ering desolation so complete, it can hardly be expected to display many marks of its antiquity Bavaria. route CII the rhine (e.). spires. 463 and former splendour in its buildings. Since 1816, however, when it came into the possession of the King of Ba- varia, much has been done to repair or restore tlie little that remains. The Dom or Cathedral is almost the only edifice which has bid defiance to the attempts to destroy it ; the French undermined it, and tried to blow it up ; but the venerable structure remained unshaken by the explosion. In jioint of dimensions it is perhaps the most stupendous building in the round- arched style existing. The two tall pointed towers and the semicircular termination at the E. end, are the sole surviving portion of the original edi- fice, founded in 1027 by Conrad the Salique, on the spot where a Roman temple of Venus, and afterwards a Christian temple, built by Dagobert, had stood before. The W. end, cu- pola, nave, and choir of Conrad's church, were burnt by the French, 1C89, although they had promibcd to respect the building, and had thereby induced the citizens to fill it with their valuable goods and chattels, wliich after being plundered by the spoilers served as fuel to assist in consuming it. The interior is plain and severe in its style of architecture, and without ornament. The width and heiglit of the nave strike tiie beholder with awe ; in the king's choir, between the nave and the choir, is the Imperial Vault, in which 8 Emperors of Ger- many were buried ; among them Henry 111., IV., and V., Rudolph of Ilabsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and Albert of Austria. Since their graves were sacrilegiously broken open and plundered by the French in 1689, it is difficult to say who remains behind. The emperor Charles VI., the last of the male line of Ilabsburg, caused search to be made for the bones of his ancestors ; some were found and reinlerred, but to whom they belonged was not ascertained. The Duke of Kassau has caused the mutilated grave-stone of his ancestor Adolph, to be replaced by a modern monu- ment by Ohmaclit; it consists of a kneeling figure, on a Byzantine sar- cophagus of black Nassau marble. Numerous judicious restorations have been made by the Bavarian govern- ment ; and the church, which was a ruin in 1816, has been re-opened for public worship since 1824. The sub- terranean Church or Crypt, under the choir, supported by short massy co- lumns, is very curious. The font dates fiom the IXthor Xth centuries. Traces of the mines formed by the French in their ineffectual attempt to blow up the building may still be per- ceived here. In the Sacrist// are a set of priests' robes of the XlVth cen- tury, beautifully embroidered with sul>jects from scripture, figures of the apostles, &c. ; they were brouglit from Aschaftenburg. The treasures of the saci-isti/ disappeared at the Re- volution. In the ruined C/iapel of St. Afra, on the north side of the building, the remains of the unfortu- nate emperor, Henry IV., were laid by his faithful subjects, the citizens of Worms, and remained 5 years un- buried until the removal of the papal ban of excommunication opened for him the imperial vault. Tlie Dom is surrounded by agreeable pleasure- grounds, extending down to the Rhine. In the Hall of Antiquities, near the Dom, are deposited various Roman remains found in lUienish Bavaria, chiefly at Rheinzabern ; they consist of pottery of all kinds, elegant vases and dishes, with the moulds in which they were shaped, bas-reliefs in stone and terra cotta, glass vessels, lamps, votive tablets, spear heads, sword blades, a good statue of Mercury in bronze, and the eagle of a Roman legion. Here is also preserved the gravestone of Rudolph of Ilabsburg, bearing his effigy carefully copied from the ^fe. One of the few surviving relics of the old city is a colossal tower and gateway called Alt Portal, between X 4 4'64? ROUTE CII. THE RHINE. GERMERSHEIM. Scct. VIII. the town and the Landau suburb ; it is of considerable antiquity. A ruined and unsightly wall, near ths Protestant cliurch (built 1717), is the only remaining relic of the Hetscher, or Imperial palace, in wliicii 49 Diets were held. The name comes (it is said) from the Bohemian Hradschin given to it by the Pro- testants of that nation. (?) It will be remembered, that tlie " ji^-otcstaiioii"' of the Reformed princes and cities against the decree of tlie Diet held here in 1529, gave rise to the nanie of Protestant. There are pleasant walks round the town. Strangers can be introduced bj' the innkeepers to read the newspapers in the club called Harmonie. A good road leads to Landau, and the Castle of Trifels, the prison of Richard Cccur- de-Lion, described in Boute CIV. ^ Continuing the voyage up the Rhine, we pass (it.) Pliillipsburg, for- merly a fortress of the empire ; it makes an important figure in the campaigns of Turenne. Its works ■were rased in 1800. Marshal Ber- wich was killed under its walls, 1734. Large and unwholesome morasses, oelow the level of the Rhine, over- spread the country about. 2 (/.) Germersheim. — /nw .• Baier- ischer Hof, not good. Here the steamer stops for the night in ascend- ing from Blayence. It is a miserable small town of 2000 inhabitants, and wasfoinuled by tlie Emperor Rudolpii of Habsburg, who died here, 1281. It is about to be converted into a fort- ress of the German Confederations, and strong military defences are being erected round it (1838); they will take 8 or 10 years to complete. A bridge of boats is thrown over the Rhine here. Tiie shortest road from hence to Strasburg runs along the left bank of the Rhine, but at a little distance from it, by Rheinzabern, 2 German In Route CVIL miles ; Lauterberg, 2 German miles > Beinheim, 2 French posts ; Drusen- heim, 2 p. ; Wanzenau, 2 p. ; Stras- burg, 1\ p. : but it is not provided witli post-horses, so that it is better to go from Germersheim to Landau, 2^ German miles, or to cross over to the right bank of the river, (r.) Leopoldshafen (formerly called Schrock),apoor village without proper accommodation for travellers. Here the steamer lands passengers bound for Carlsruhe, 5 miles oft", and Baden. Carriages are kept here in readiness to convey them. A small quantity of gold is found in the sand and gravel of the Rhine in this part of its course. A few persons occupy themselves in gold washing, but tiie gain is small and very precarious. It occurs chiefly along the banks. {r.^Kehl. y (/. 1 Strasulkg. J The steamer cannot approach close to Strasburg, but stops at the bridge of boats which connects Germany to France, near to the French custom- house, about 2 miles from the centre of tlie town. By means of the chain of steamers now navigating the Rliine, an En- glish traveller hastening homeward from Switzerland or the Black Forest, may make the voyage from Strasburg (perhaps in a year or two from Basle) to Rotterdam in 3 or 2>\ days. 1st day to INIaycnce, considerably more than 100 miles ; 2d day to Cologne, 12.) miles ; 3d day to Nymegen, 110 miles; from which he may continue in the night or next morning to Rot- terdam in 4 or 6 hours, 9.5 miles. N. B. It will be necessary for those who intend to avail tliemselvcs of this accelerated conveyance, to ascertain beforeliand on what days the steamers leave Strasburg. In 1835 they went 5 times a-week, or[every day but Sun- day and Thursday. Sect. VIII. ROUTES CIII.j CIV. — schwetzixgen, etc. ^65 ROUTE cm. MANNHEIH TO HEIDELBERG, BY SCIIWETZINGEN. 3j Gcnnan miles = 17 English miles. Eilwajren pass daily between IMann- heim and Heidelberg, not by way of Schwetzingen, but by tbe direct road, 14j English miles. As there is no- thing interesting in it, many persons may think it wortlj while to go round by Schwetzingen, which has gained the reputation of a German Versailles. A straight avenue of fruit-trees and poplars leads from Mannheim to 2 Schwefzinflen. — Inn : Post. This small town of 2500 inhabitants, with its Chateau, had been from early times a seat of the Electors Palatine, when the Elector Charles Theodore made it his summer residence in 1743, and employed the 20 following years, and vast sums of mony, in converting into an ornamental garden a flat, sandy desert, indebted to nature for no fa- vour but the very distant prospect of a picturesque chain of hills. Those who desire to see all the sights here may prolong their walk for 2 or .3 hours : at any rate it is well to take a guide at the gate. The objects best worth notice are the Mosque, the temples of Mercury and Apollo, the Bath, the Roman aqueduct, and the Temple of Pan. The vista looking over the great basin towards the 'N'os- ges Mountains, has the pleasing effect of a natural diorama. The Gardens themselves are not without beauty, though laid out in the formal French stylo, carried to perfection by J,e Notre at Versailles, with straight b;;- sins edged with stone, and ruffled by everspirting fountains; with prim par- terres, jieopled with statues, flanked by cropped edges, and intersected by long avenues. Tlie Chateau, originally a small hunting-lodge, augmented from time to time by wings, orangeries, and other additions to accommodate a court, is honoured with few and short views from the reigning grand Duke, but the grounds are kept in good order, and are well worthy of a visit. The Botanic Garden, included within their circuit, contains a fine collection of Alpine plants. The Con- servatories and the orangery are worth notice. llie road runs in a straight line to li Heidelberg. In Route CV. ROUTE CIV. MANNHEIM TO ZWEIBRUCKEN (dECX fonts) THROUGH NEUSTADT, LANDAU, AND ANNWEILER. The circle of the Rhine (Rhein Kreis^ includes much pleasing scenery among the chains of the Hardt and Vosges mountains, and many old town? and castles, interesting from their history. The following route, not mvich traversed hitherto by En- glish travellers, will lay open to them some of the most interesting objects in this part of the country, and will conduct them to the prison of Richard Coeur de Lion, which will be regarded as an object of interest by most En- glishmen. They must not expect, however, to meet with a good road, or very capital accommodation. The road from Mannheim to May- ence is followed as far as 1| Oggersheim, p. 458-9. 2 Dl'rkheim. — /«n.- Vier Jahreszei- ten ; — Ochse. This was once a strong fortress, but its works have long since been rased : it is now chiefly remark- able for its agreeable situation at the foot of the hills, on the skirts of the plain of the Rhine, and at the en- trance of tlie valley of the Isenach, up which rims the road to Kaiserslau- tern, and for its pleasing environs. Within a short distance lie the salt- works of Phillipshall. The summit of the nearest height is crowned by the Heidenmduer (Pa- gan's Wall), a circular rampart of loose stones 8 to 10 feet high, enclos- ing a space of about half a league. The Romans are said to have built it X 5 4«6 ROUTE CIV. — MANNHEIM TO LANDAU. ScCt. VIII, to keep In check the barbarians, and Attila is reported to have passed the winter in it, after having expelled the Romans, and wlien on his way to take possession of Rome itself. It has given a name to the well-known no- vel of Cooper, the American. Near it is the Devil's Stone, a natural rock on which the pagans are said to have sacrificed. The view from it over the plain of the Palatinate, along the Rhine and Neckar as far as Heidel- berg, and the near prospect of fertile and industrious valleys, is highly pleas- ing. On the opposite side of the valley, at the top of a hill nearly encircled by the stream, stand the ruins of the Abbey of Liinbitrg with its vast church, found- ed in lO.SO, in the style of the Dom of Spire, and destroyed by the Swedes in 1632. The height'on which it stands commands a fine view. Within sight of the ruins of the abbey, are those of Hardeiihiirg, the castle of the Counts of Leiningen, its greatest enemies, who were engaged in constant feuds with the mouks, and burnt the abbey in the XVth century. The road to Neustadt passes through Wachenheim, Forst, and Deidesheim, all famous for the wines produced in the neighbouring vineyards. It is a most delightful ride. Geologists will remark with interest the erup- tion of basalt, proceeding from the mountain called Pechstein- Kopf : the basalt assumes the shape of balls. 2 Neustadt an dcr Haardt. — Iims : Post, — Golden Lowe. This town of 8000 inhabitants is old and uninviting within, but its situation at the foot of the Haardt moimtains is delightful. Its Church dates from the Xth cen- tury. In the fore-court, called the Pa- radise, some remains of ancient fresco paintings may be traced. Tlie neigh- bourliood abounds in ruined castles, many of wliich M-cre reduced to their present condition in the Peasants' War {\5'.l5). It is practicable, in the course of a morning's walk, to visit Haardt- burg, (originally the summer residence of the Electors Palatine, now attached to a modern villa), and Wolfsburg, destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. These two forts originally afforded protection to the town below. About 2 miles to the N.E. of the town is the Castle of Hambach, another ruin. It was built by the Emperor Henry IV., who is said to have set out from hence on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Rome barefoot, in 1077, to appease the anger of the haughty pope Hildebrand. In 1832-33, a number of misguided peo- ple assembled here, made revolution- ary speeches, and occasioned a tumult, which was terminated only by calling in the military, and the ringleaders were in consequence imprisoned. The view from the ruins is very fine. Near Neustadt, very extensive quar- ries are excavated in the Bunter Sandstein, and Muschel Kalk : the latter abounds in fossils. The road passes,Edenkoben, a town of 4500 inhabitants, producing a wine of inferior quality, surrounded by vine- yards. Inn, Neue Pfalz. Near at hand may be seen the church and tower of the ruined convent, Heilsbruck. 2 Landau. — Inns : Schwan, Schaaf (Sheep). This strong fortress of the Germanic confederation has recently been repaired ; it is occupied by a garrison of Bavarians, and numbers 6000 inhabitants. It is situated on the Queich, which fills its fos.se with water. It has been an object of con- test in every great European war from the XVth century, and consequently its liistory is nothing but a succession of sieges, blockades, bombardments, captures, and surrenders. During the Tliirty Years' War it was taken 8 times, by tlie troops of Count Mans- feldt, by the Spaniards, Swedes, Im- perialists, and French. IntheXVIIth century it fell into the hands of the French, was fortified by Vauban, and was considered impregnable until 1702, when it was taken by Mark- grave Lewis of Baden. From 1 7 1 .3 to 1815, it remained in the hands of the French. It stood a siege of 9 Rh. Bavaria, route CIV. — ^TRirELS. deux fonts. 467 months in 1793, in the course of which 30,000 shells, &c. were thrown into it. In the following year the powder magazine blew up, and the bell of the Rathhaus was carried by the explo- sion as far as the village of Godram- stein, where it was dug up in a mea- dow some years afterwards. N, B. The gates of the fortress are shut at an early hour, after which neither ingress nor egress is permitted. An agreeable excursion may be made to the Madenberg, near Esehbach, 6 miles to the E. ; it is one of the most perfect castles in this neighbourhood. Tlie view from it is very beautiful. The traveller may walk from it through the woods to .\nnweiler, taking TrifeJs by the way, — the dis- tance is about 8 miles. The road from Landau to Zwei- briicken is a cross road, not provided with post horses, nor kept in the best condition. It runs up the pretty vale of tlie Queicli to 1^ Annweiler. — Inn : Zum Tri- fels. This is a town of 2600 inha- bitants, situated on the Queich, under the ruined castle of Trifels, memor- able as the prison of Richard Caeur de Lion. It is now a total ruin ; one square tower alone remains in a toler- ably perfect state to attest its former strength ; but the subterranean dun- geon, in which, according to tradition, he was confined, and watched night and day by guards with drawn swords, is still pointed out. After being cap- tured by his treacherous enemy, Leo- pold of Austria on his return from the Holy Land, Richard was sold by him for .30,000 marks of silver to the Emperor Henry VI., who basely de- tained him a prisoner from 1192 to 1 1 94. It was probably beneath these walls that the song of the faithful minstrel Blondel first succeeded in discovering the prison of his master, by procuring the vocal response from the royal troubadour. In 119.3 his shameless jailor, the Emperor, brought Richard in chains before the Diet at Hagenau, to answer the charge of the murder of Conrad of Montferrat, which he repelled with such manly and persuasive eloquence, and proved so clearly his innocence, that tlie Diet at once acquitted him, and ordered his chains to be knocked off. In 1 1 94 he was released from Trifels in con- sideration of a ransom of 130,000 marks of silver. The castle of Trifels stands on the summit of a singular mountain of sandstone (Bunter Sandstein) called the Sonneuberg, 1422 feet above the sea-level. It was a favourite residence of the German emperors, and must have been a place of great magnifi- cence as well as strength. Frederick Barbarossa, and many of his prede- cessors and succes.sors, held their court here, and the regalia of the empire were deposited within its walls for se- curity. It was also used as a state prison for many unfortunate captives besides Richard of England. It has remained a ruin ever since the Thirty Years' War, when it was taken by the Swedes; but it has something impos- ing even in its present state. The walls of the donjon are very thick, and 40 feet high. The chapel has been stripped, and the marljle pillars removed from it to the church of Annweiler. An agreeable path leads up from the town to the castle, whence the view is very pleasing ; two of the neighbouring heights are also crowned with castles. The scenery between Annweiler and Dahn is particularly interesting from the extraordinary forms assumed by the sandstone rocks (Bunter Sand- stein), which have been split and fis- sured in all directions. Dahn may be visited by a slight detour on the way to Pirmasens; the distance is about 15 miles : it lies a little out of the direct road, to the S. of it, and has a good Inn, Ritter St. Georg. 2 Kaltenbach. 1| Pirmasens, a town of 5000 in- habitants. 25 Zweibriicken, (French, Deux Ponts) — Inni: Post; Zweibriicker X 6 4-68 ROUTE CV. FRANKFORT TO BASLE. Sect. VIII. uninteresting town, which need not detain the traveller long. The appear- ance of torpidity is increased by the extent of surface over which it is spread. Tlie streets are straight and very wide, the squares numerous, and many of the houses are built singly, with intervals between them. The old town, with its dark and confined streets, is very properly kept in the back groiuid, and none of the great thoroughfares pass through it. The Catholic Church, built by !Moller, a native architect, is well worth notice. Its exterior is of brick and unfinished ; but the interior, a rotunda 17;5 feet in diameter and 12:5 feet high, surrounded by jiillars 50 feet high, is grand and imposing, though at the same time extremely simple. The Grand Duke lives in a Neio Palace of no great architectural pre- tensions, next door to the Traube Hotel. The Old Palace (Alte Schloss) has been fitted up as a residence for his son, the hereditary prince (Erbprinz). It is a structure of various ages, from the XVIth to the XVIIIth. ; still surrounded by a dry ditch, now con- verted into a shrubbery and garden. It contains likewise the Museum of Paintings and of Natural Historq. Among the GOO pictures (most of them 2d-rate) which fill tlie gallery, the following seem best worth notice: — The Purification of the ^'irgin, by William of Cologne ; sometimes called William Calf, a rare master. — Scho- recl, the Death of the Virgin. — L. Cranach, portrait of Albert of Brandenburg, Archbishop of ]May- ence, with his pet lion. — Portraits of Louis XIV. and XV., Cardinal Ma- zarin, Maria Lecksinsky, Maria An- toinette, and Cardinal Fleury, by French artists. — In the Dutch school, Schalhens, portrait of William III. of England. — Vandyke, sketch of the A'irgin and Child ; portrait of Eord Pembroke. — P. Potter (?) cow and herd, with a horn. — Eckhout, a man's 1 1 of. A town of 7000 inhabitants, in a very picturesque situation, once the capital of the Duchy of Zwei- briicken, or Deux Ponts. The dukes resided in the Palace, now converted into a Catholic church. The name of this place is supposed to be derived from the two bridges leading across the river Erbach to the palace. Tlie principality once belonged to the crown of Sweden ; but fell by inhe- ritance to the King of Bavaria, to whom it now belongs. The series of the classics known as " The Bipont Edition," was printed here by a so- ciety of learned men in 1779. Zweibriicken is U German miles distant from Homburg, on the high road from INIavence to IMetz. ( Route CI.}. ROUTE CV. TRANKFORT TO BASLE IN SWITZERLAND BY DARMSTADT, THE BKRGSTRASSI?, AND ODENWALD, HEIDELBERG, CARLS- RUHE, AND FREYBURG. 46^ Germ, miles = 225 Eng. miles. An eilwagen makes the journey every day in 30 hours : the road is good. It takes nearly eight hours to post from Frankfort to Heidelberg. A Railroad is talked of ! from Frank- fort to Danustadt. ^— The viev,- from the old watch-tower on the height about a mile beyond Sachsenhausen, over the town of Frankfort, the Main, the distant Tau- nus, and the immediate foreground of neat villas and vineyards, is very pleas- ing. Through a fine forest of beech we reach Isenbcrg, one of the villages colonised by French emigrants exiled after the revocation of the edict of Nantes. li Langen. The country, as far Darmstadt, is flat and uninteresting. \\ Darmstadt. — Inns : Traube (bunch of grapes,) Darmstlidter Ilof. Darmstadt, the capital of the duchy of Hesse Darmstadt, the residence of the Grand Duke, and seat of the govern- ment and chambers, has a population of 22,436 inhabitants. It is a dull, Darvistadt. route CV. — dar.mstadt. bergstrasse. 469 heacl. — Teniers, peasants. — P. de Hotige, Dutchman and his Wife. — liemlirandt, portrait of liis second wife. — Itnlian School. P. I'eronese, sketch of the great picture in the Louvre of the Marriage in Cana. — Titian (?) a Venus (doubtful). — I'elasquez, a child in a white frock. — Do^nenichino, David and Nathan. — Raphael (?) St John in the Wilderness, varying slightly from the paintings of the same subject at Florence, and in the Staf- ford gallery ; Archangel Michael. Tliere is some very curious painted glass in this gallery. Museum of Natural History. The most valuable and interesting part of this collection are the /bssiZs, found in the neighbourhood of the Rhine, such as remains of the whale and elephant, some from the bed of the Rhine : se- veral very perfect skulls and nume- rous other bones of rhinoceros from Oppenheim : of Sus antiquusand Mas- todon from Eppelsheim : numerous perfect jaws and other remains of the Deinotherium ,- an extinct amphibious animal; etjualling the elephant in size, and feeding like the Dugong upon herbs and weeds growing in the water. These unequalled specimens were found in sandpits at Eppelsheim, near Alzey, along with marine shells. The fossils of this Museum have been described in a work published by Dr. Kaup. Tlie palace also contains a good Public Library of 200,000 vols. ; the inhabitants of the town arc allowed to take books liome. The Theatre, near the Palace, pos- sessed one of the finest opera.s in Ger- many during the time of the late Grand Duke, whose greatest pleasure was to preside in the orchestra as conductor of the band. It has fallen off under his successor, and the best musicians are now dispersed. Near the theatre is the Exercier Haus (Drilling House), a sort of large riding-school. It was built for the purpose of drilling the garrison imder cover in bad weather, and is reraarkable for the great size of its roof, 157 feet broad, and 319 feet long ; constructed, it is said, by a common carpenter, after architects of pretension had declared the task ira- possil)lc. The building now serves as a depot for artillery. The Gardens of the Palace are very prettily laid out ; within them is the grave of a Landgravine of Hesse. The spot was chosen by herself in her life- time, and Frederick the Great en- graved upon her urn the words, " Sexu foemina, ingenio vir : " " A woman in sex, a man in understand- ing." The landlord of the inn will intro- duce tlie traveller to the Cassino club. The House of Commons of the duchy assemljles under the same roof, and at particular seasons balls, concerts, and assemblies take place in it. There is very little commerce at Darmstadt ; the inhabitants depend in a great measure on the court. A mile or two out of the town is the preserve, where wild boars are kept for the ducal chasse. Strangers are often taken in the evening to see the animals fed. A daily communication is kept up, by means of eilwagen, with Frank- fort, ZMayence, Basle, Strasburg, Heidelberg, and Baden. There is a good post road direct from Darm- stadt to Mayence(4J German miles), by Gross- Geran, crossing the Maine by a ferry opposite Cassel. The picturesque district called the Odenwald (forest of Odin), begins'a few miles south of Darmstadt. It lies to the east of the high road to Hei- delberg, called the Bergstrasse, and some of its most interesting scenes, particularly the :Mcliboeus, may be visited on the way thither. To ex- plore it thoroughly 2 days would be required, and the route from Darm- stadt by Reinheim, 2 Gerin. miles, to Erbach, 3 Germ, miles, is usually taken. The entire excursion may not suit the taste or convenience of all travellers, but the ascent of the Melibocus mountain should be omit- 470 ROUTE CV. — MELIBOCUS. THE ODENWALD. Scct. VIII. ted by none, as it cannot fail of af- fording gratification by its fine pano- ramic view. The road from Darmstadt to Heidel- berg is celebrated for its beauty all over Germany. It is called Berg- strasse (mountain road, from the Latin strata montana, although, in fact, per- fectly level), because it runs along the base of a range of liills, which form the E. boundary of the valley of the Rhine. Its chief beauty arises from the fertility and high cultivation of the district it overlooks, rich in its luxuriant vegetation of vines and maize, enlivened by glimpses of the Rhine, and bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains in France. " On the left, the wooded and vine- covered range of mountains, with their old castles, forming the bound- ary of the Odenwald, runs parallel with the road, and immediately above it. On the right stretches a vast sandy flat, through which the Rhine wanders, bounded by the heights of Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges, at 50 or 60 miles distance. The villages and towns on the road are beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains, overhung by vine-covered slopes, and embosomed in orchards, which extend in cheerful avenues along the road, from one town to another." " Almost every mountain on the Bergstrasse, and many of those in the Odenwald, are crowned by a castle, one of those relics of the days of knighthood, which, embosomed in the woods of beech, or surrounded by vineyards, adds the interest of its antiijuity and chivalrous associations to the charms of the landscape." — Autumn near the R/iitie. I J Bickenbach. The Odenwald. At the villages of Alsbach, Zwin- genburg, and Auerbach, lying at the foot at the INIelibocus mountain, guides, with mules or donkeys, may be found for those who choose to avail themselves of their aid in ascendinj; the mountain. Carriages may be sent on by the high road between these villages, to await the traveller on his descent. In proceeding south, if the traveller wishes to extend his walk, he may send his vehicle on to Heppenheim. The ascent is most easily made from Auerbach, (p. 472.) from which place it is practicable on horseback. The path lies principally through shady beech woods. The MelibocHS or Malchen, is a co- nical hill of granite, 1632 Paris feet above the sea : it is the highest of the Odenwald chain of hills, and is con- spicuous far and wide, on account of the white tower on its top, erected 1772, as a Belvedere. The view from it is most extensive, owing to the vast expanse of flat in the valley of the Rhine below. " The more dis- tant objects are. Spires, and Mann- heim with its slated dome to the left. Worms and its Gothic cathedral op- posite, and the dark towers of May- ence lower down. The tower is built on the very edge of the declivity. The smoking villages, the gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the Berg- strasse, appeared immediately beneath us. We traced the course of the Rhine, which now gleamed in the bright sun, and appeared little re- moved from the base of the moun- tain, from above Mannheim, almost to Bingen, a distance of nearly 60 En- glish miles. At Bingen it loses itself in the defiles of the liheingau mountains, which bound the view on that side. The course of the placid Neckar, and its junction with the Rhine are very visible, as also that of the 3Iaine. A good tclescojie is kept in the tower, by the help of which, in a clear day, we were told, you might distingush the tower of Strasburg cathedral, at a distance of above 100 English miles. Towards the north, the view reaches the mountains in the neighbourhood of Gicssen, in Hesse, 60 miles distant. To the East lies the Odenwald, over the chaotic Darmstadt, route CV. — the odexwald. erbach. 471 wooded hills of which the prospect stretches as far as the vicinity of Wiirtzburg — a distance of 60 or 70 miles : while on the west, across the Khine, the eye ranges over the smooth plain, till it is bounded by the blue broken tops of the Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges mountains, at a nearly equal distance." — Autumn near the Rhine. Those who intend to extend their walk through the Odenwald, continue by a convenient path to another mountain, the Felsberg, 3 miles off, surmounted by a hunting-lodge (Jagerhaus), which also commands a fine view. The valley which sepa- rates it from the Melibocus is one of the wildest in the Odenwald. A little way from the Jagerhaus, on the de- clivity of the hill, by the side of the path leading to lleichenbach, lies the Jtienensaule (Giant's Column), a gi- gantic column of hard syenite, simi- lar to the rock of which the mountain is composed, and without doubt quar- ried on the spot : it is about 30 feet long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper- ing toward one end. Its origin and use are unknown, but it must be of great antiquity. Not far off lies a vast block of the same stone, called Riesenulter, bearing on it incisions and marks of the saw. The appear- ance of these vestiges of human power and art in the depths of a sequestered forest is peculiarly striking, and not easily accounted for. Some have sup- posed that they are of German origin, and were intended to form part of a temple of Odin. It is more probable that they are the work of Roman artificers, during the time they were established in this part of Germany, which was included in the Agri Decu- mates. It was at one time proposed to erect the column on the field of Leipsig, as a monument of that vic- tory — a project more easily started than executed. Tlie Fdsetimeer (Sea of Rocks) is a singular accumulation of fragments of syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon one another, and extending from near the top of the Felsberg almost to Reichenbach. They are of the same kind of rock as the mountain itself, so cannot have been transported from a distance. They appear like an avalanche of stones, hurled by some convulsion of nature from the summit. From this point again the traveller has the choice either of returning to the high road at Auerbach, by way of Reichenbach, or of proceeding on to Erbach. — At the distance of about 18 miles from Auerbach, along a tolerable road, passing through Schcen- berg, Reichenbach, the hill of Winter- kasten, and Reichelsheim, lies Erbach ( bin, Post). This small town is situ- ated in a narrow valley overlooked by high rocks, composed of the new red sandstone (Bunter Sandstein) and muschelkalk of geologists. The Castle of the Counts of Erbach, a modern building, erected on the site of an ancient baronial residence, the greater part of which, except the donjon tower, was removed in the last century, contains a very interesting armoury, highly deserving of a visit. There are many suits, arranged, some on horseback, in the attitude of the tournament, others on foot. The history of every one is known ; many have belonged to ancestors of the family, others have been worn by robber knights (Raubritter), not a few of whom expiated their crimes on the wheel or scaffold. Those which have a more general historical interest are, the suits of Philip the Good of Burgundy, the Kmperor Frederick III., Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Giacomo ^Medici, Markgrave Albert of Brandenburg, Gustavus Adolphus and Wallenstein. The two last, with many other suits in the collection, were brought from the arsenal at Nu- remberg. Here is l)esides the pano- ply of Franz of Sickingen, and his friend Goctz of Berlichingen, with the iron hand, brought from Heilbronn, and a small suit made for Thoraele, 472 ROUTE CV. THE BERGSTRASSE. ScCt. VIII. the dwarf of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, and worn by him on some festive occasion wlien he was presented in a pie to the company seated at table. There are other curiosities in the castle, such as fire-arms of various periods, painted glass, antiques, vases, &c. ; in short, it is highly worthy of a visit from strangers. In the chapel are the coflfins in which Eginhard, secre- tary and son-in-law of Charlemagne, and the faithful Emma his wife, were buried ; they were removed from the church in Seligenstadt in 1810. Egin- hard was an ancestor of the Erbach family. Erbach is connected by a post road, not very good, with Darmstadt ; the distance is 51, Germ, miles = 2 posts. There is also a way from Erbach to Heidelberg by Beerfelden and Eber- bach on the Neckar, from whence the descent of that river may be made in a boat, or the road along the l)anks may be followed. About 9 miles N. W. from Erbach, between Reichelshein and Bil stein, in a wild and secluded mountain district, surrounded by forests, lies the castle of Rodenstein, the seat of the singular superstition of the Knight of Roden- stein, or the wild Jliger, who, issuing from out the ruined walls of the neigh- bouring castle of Schnellert, his usual abode, announces the approach of war by traversing the air with a noisy ar- mament, to the castle of Rodenstein, situated on a solitary mountain op- posite. " Tlie strange noises heard on the eve of battles are authenticated by affidavits jireserved in the village of Reiclielsliein ; some are of so recent a date as 174,'5 and 1796, and some persons profess to have l)een con- vinced by their eyes as well as tlieir ears. In this manner the jieople as- sert that they were forewarned of the victories of Leipsic and Waterloo. If the spectral host return at once to Scluieliert, nothing material occurs ; but if the linntsnian tarry witli his train, then some momentous event, threatening evil and calamity to Ger- many, is expected by the people to occur. The flying army of Roden- stein may probably be owing to a simple cause. The power of the wind is very great, and its roar singularly solemn and sonorous, in these vast districts of forest. In the pine forests it sometimes tears up thousands of trees in a night." — Autumn near (he Rhine. The legend of the Wild Huntsman has been attributed, with some proba- bility, to another cause — the passage at night of vast flocks of the larger birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &c. through the air in their annual migra- tions. The rustling of so many wings, and the wild cries of the fowl, heard in the darkness of night, and in the solitude of the forest, may easily have furnished the superstitious peasant with the idea of the aerial huntsman and his pack. Since the dissolution of the German einpire, the spectre, it is said, has given up his nocturnal chase ; at least, the inliabitants of the farm-house standing directly under the Rodenstein have not, for many years, been disturbed by noise or sight that can be traced to a ghostly origin. Dcrgstrasse continued. About 15 miles from Darmstadt lies Anerbach (Inns, Krone (Crown), good ; — Rose), one of the prettiest villages on the Bergstrasse. It is sometimes resorted to as a watering- ])lace, on account of a mineral spring in the neighbourhood. In the vil- lage itself there is nothing remark- able, but no one who passes the Bergstrasse should omit to tarry here, at least for a few hours, to explore the beauties of its ncighboiu-liood. A gradual ascent, practicable for a light char, leads ])ast the Brunnen to the ruins of the Castle of Aiterberg, one of the most jiicturesque in the Odenwald. It was destroyed by the French under Turennc, 1 674, and time is fast comj)leting the work of destruction begun by man ; one of its tall slender towers fell in 18'J1, and the other threatens to follow it. The Baden. ROUTE CV HEIDELBERG. 4-73 hill on which it stands is composed of granite and gneiss. A shady and easy path conducts from the ruins to the Melibocus ; guides and mules arc to be hired by those who require them. Near Bensheim, a town of 4000 inhabitants, on the road a little S. of Auerbacb, is a hillock in the middle of a field, called Landberg, upon which, in ;;ncient times, the Burggraves of Starkcnburg lield, in the open air, their triljunal called Gaugericht. About 3 miles W. of Bensheim, off the road, is the ruined Abbey of Lorsch, the oldest Gothic edifice in this part of Germany. A fragment of a portico, which served as an entrance into the original church, consecrated in 11 ■i, in the presence of Charlemagne, his queen, and two sons, still exists. The rest of the building is of the Xlth cen- tury, and exhibits a speclinon of the tiebased Koman style. A part of the building, at present used as a store- house for fruit, dates from 1090. Lorscli is now only interesting to the antiquarian and architect. The holy monks who founded the abbey, not only spread civilisation and religion through the surrounding country, but redeemed it from the state of a wilder- ness, like the backwoods of America, and brought it under cultivation. In process of time, the priory surpassed in wealth and extent of possession many bishoprics and principalities. 1 \ Ileppenheim. — Inn : HalbeMond (Halfmoon), indiH'erent. This small town of 3700 inhabitants, like most others on the Bergstrasse, has an ancient and decayed appearance, but is prettily situ.ated. The church was built by Charlemagne. On a com- manding height behind, rise the towers of Starkenhurg Castle, built 1064 by the abbots of Lorsch as a defence against the attacks of the German Kmperors. It afterwards belonged to the Archbishop of Mayence, who con- sidered it their strongest fortress, and maintained a garrison in it down to the time of the VII. Years' War. It was taken by the Spaniards under Cordova ( 1 62 1 ), by the Swedes under Gustavus Adolphus (1631), and was twice fruitlessly besieged by Turenne (1645 and 74). A little way out of Heppenheim the road crosses the frontier of Darmstadt into Baden. 2 Weinheim {Inn, Der Karlsberg) is considered the most beautiful spot on the Bergstrasse ; it lies on the Wesch- nitz, and has 4900 inhabitants, whose wealth consists in the orchards and vineyards around. The best wines of the Bergstrasse are the Laudenbacher, the Ileinsbacher, and after them the Wcinheimer. Above the town is the castle of Winchck, remarkable for its cylindrical donjon tower. The ruined castle of Strahlenberg, above the town of Schriessheim, is conspicuous on the left. The cherries of Dossenheim, a vil- lage near H.indscbnlisli(?im, are, it is said, sent by steam-boats to the London market. At the village of Neuenheim, in a house that goes by the name of IMiinchhof, according to an obscure tradition, Luther was lodged when he passed through Heidelberg in 1518. The approach to Heidelberg along the right bank of the Neckar, and the view from the bridge, are enchanting. 2J Heidelberg. — Inns: Badensche Hof; Prinz Karl; Konig von Portu- gal. Hotel de HoUande, the newest inn ; it faces the river. The beauty of the Bergstrasse has been perhaps exaggerated ; that of Hei- delberg cannot be too much extolled; it is beautifully' situated on the left bank of the Neckar, on a narrow ledge between the river and the castle rock. It has 1 2,500 inhabitants. Few cities in Europe have experienced to a greater 'extent, or more frecjuently, the horrors of war, than the ill-starred Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty Years' War, it displayed in its build- ings all the splendour arising from flourishing commerce and the resi- dence of the Court of the Electors Palatine of tiic Rhine. It has been 474- ROUTE CV. — HEIDELBERG. Sect. viir. five times bombarded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice taken by assault and delivered over to pillage. In 1622 (tlie fatal period of the Thirty Years' War), the ferocious Tilly took the town by storm, after a cruel siesje and bombardment of nearly a month, and gave it up to be sacked for 3 days together. The garrison retreated into the castle, headed by an Englishman named Herbert, but the death of their commander, who was shot, compelled thein to surrender in a few days. The imperial troops retained posses- sion of the place for 1 1 years, after which it was retaken by the Swedes, who were hardly to be preferred as friends, to the imperialists as foes. But Heidelberg was destined to suf- fer far worse evils from the French. In 1674, the Elector, Charles Louis, incurred the displeasure of Louis XIV.; and a French army, under Turenne, was in consequence let loose upon the Palatinate, carrying slaughter and desolation before them. The Elector beheld with distress, from the castle in which he had shut himself up, tlie inroads of foreign troops, and flame and smoke rising up along the plain from burning towns and vil- lages. Unable to oppose the French with equal force at the head of an army, but anxious to avenge the wrongs of his country, he resolved, in a spirit which some may deem Quix- otic, others chivalrous, to endeavour to end the contest with his own sword ; and accordingly he sent a cartel to Marshal Turenne, challenging him to single combat. The French gene- ral returned a civil answer, but did not accept it. The ambition of Louis XIV. led him, on the death of the Elector, to lay claim to tlie Palatinate on behalf of the Duke of Orleans, and another French army, more wicked than the first, was marched across the Rhine. Heidel- berg was taken and burnt, 1688, by Melac, a general whose brutality and cruelty surpassed that of Tilly. But it was at the following siege under Chamilly, in 169.3, that it was re- served for the French to display the most merciless tyranny, and practise excesses worthy of fiends rather tiian men, upon the town and its inhabit* ants, parallelled only in the French Revolution, and which will ever render the name of Frenchman odious in the Palatinate. The castle was betrayed through the cowardice or treachery of the governor, with the garrison, and many of the townspeople who had fled to it for refuge. The cruelty of the treatment they met with was, in this instance, heightened by religious in- tolerance, and no mercy was shown to the Protestants. On this occasion the castle was entirely ruined. Tke University, founded 1.386, is one of the oldest in Germany ; in 1830 the number of students was about 800, but since the foolish dis- turliaiices at Frankfort, in wliich some of them took part, the King of Prus- sia, and olher German princes, have forbidden their subjects to study here, fearing the contamination of revolu" tionary ideas. JNIany of the professors at the present time are men of great eminence, as Thibaut, the first lawyer in Germany ; Zacharia, another emi- nent jurist ; Gmelin, distinguished in natural history and chemistry ; Tiede- man, in anatomy ; Paulas, in theo- logy ; Schlossser, in history ; Mitter- meyer, in criminal law. It is us a school of law and medicine that Hei- delberg is most distinguished. As an edifice the University is not remarkable. It is a plain and not very large house in the small square near the middle of the town. The Library, in a building by itself consists of 120,000 volumes, besides MSS. A portion of the famous Palatine Library, which was carried off by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years' War, and sent to the Vatican as a present to the Pope, and as a trophy of the success of the Catholic cause, was restored to Heidell)erg by pope Pius VII. in 1815. The vo- lumes sent back, 890 in number, relate Baden ROUTE CV. HEIDELBERG. 475 principally to German history. Some of them had been previously trans- ferred to Paris from the Vatican by the French army. It is related, that Tilly, being in want of straw after takin<; the castle, littered his caralry with books and MSS. from the library of the Elector, at that time one of the most valuable in Europe. The curiosities of this collection as it at present stands are, a codex of the Greek Anthologv', Xlth century; MSS. of Thucydides and Plutarch of the Xtli and Xlth, and many auto- graphs of remarkable persons ; Lu- ther's IMS. translation of Isaiah ; his exhortation to prayer against the Turks ; and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him ; the prayer-book of the Electress Eliza- beth (James I.'s daughter); a mass book, ornamented with miniatures, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. The library is freely open to all persons for 2 hours daily, except on Sundays. The AiuUomical and Zoological Mu- seums are placed in a building in the suburb, formerly a Dominican con- rent. Several professors have good Pri- vate Collections ; the best are Creuzer's cabinet of antiquities ; Leonhard's fossils and minerals, particularly rich in specimens illustrative of the geo- logy of this part of Germany ; and Professor Bronn's fossils of the neigh- bourhood of Heidelberg. There is also a dealer in minerals, the pro- duce of tlie neighbouring district, at No. 211, Schiffgassc. The Museum Club (^ 40. ) contains reading, ball, and concert rooms ; and a restaurant for members. Neither the public nor private buildings in the town are at all re- markable in an architectural point of view, chiefly owing to the destruction caused l)y repeated sieges. One house however survives, which, in the richly decorated fa^-ade ornamented with statues, coats of arms, &c. may give some notion of former splendour : it is the inn called Zum Ritter, from the figure of a knight on the top : it was built in 1592. It stands in the market- place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost, in which many electors and counts palatine were buried. Their fine monuments were destroyed by the French in 179;^, when neither reve- rence for the dead nor the sacredness of the building prevented it becoming the scene of slaughter and sacrilege. The church is divided by a partition wall between the Catholics and Pro- testants, and the two services are performed under the same roof. The resistance of the townspeople to one of the electors, who wanted to deprive the Protestants of their half of this church, occasioned him to remove the Electoral court from Heidelberg to to Mannheim iu 1719, 20. The Church of St. Peter's is remark- able as lieing the oldest in the town, and because Jerome of Prague, the companion of Huss, attached to its door his celebrated theses, which he maintained, at the same time ex- pounding the reformed doctrine, to a large multitude of hearers assembled in the adjoining church-yard. Here also is the single tomb cf Olympia Morata, who combined the feminine grace and beauty of a woman with the intellect and learning of a man. Persecuted as a heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, she was forced to fly, along with her husband, a German, and at length settled at Heidelberg, where she delivered lectures to a large and admiring audience. Her extra- ordinary acquirements in learning, her beauty, misfortunes, and early death, shed a peculiar interest upon her grave. The objects of greatest interest here are the Castle and the views of the Rhine and Neckar valley. 476 ROUTE CV. HEIDELBERG. ScCt. VIII. *-%mc.5\ with Portcullis. p. The Blown-up Tower. q. The (Jatc raised in honour of the English Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I. : her great-grandson was George I. r. The Garden. s. The English building erected for the Princess Elizabeth by her husband the Elector Frederick (1012). /. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. ITiSS. Its walls are 22 feet thick. It was destroyed by the French, 1089. Baden. ROUTE CV. HEIDELBERG. 477 The Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building displays the work of various hands, the taste of different founders, and the styles of successive centuries: it is liighly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectural magnificence which it still displays, after having been three times l)urnt, and having ten times experienced the horrors of war. Its final ruin, however, did not arise from those causes ; but after the greater part of the building had been restored to its former splendour in 1718 — 20,it was set on fire by lightning in 1764 : and since the total conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is at present only a collection of red stone walls, and has remained roofless for nearly a century. It is approached by a carriage-road from behind, and by a winding foot- path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest jiart remaining is probably that built by the Electors Ru- dolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a stronghold of the mid- dle ages, and the teeth of the port- cullis still project from beneath the archway leading to it. The Frivik- richsbau, named from the elector, who built it in 1 G07, is distinguished by ex'cessive richness of decoration : its facade to the south is ornamented with statues of ancestors of the elec- toral family from Charlemagne. The part of the building most deserving of admiration, for the good taste of its design, and the elegance of its decorations, is that which overlooks the river, and extends along the east side of the quadrangle {g in the plan), built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style called cinque cento, which is allied to the Elizabethan of England. The statues of heroes from sacred and profane history, which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sandstone, are by no means contemptible as works of art. The English traveller will view with some interest that part of the castle called the English palace (s), from its having been built for the re- ception of the Princess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James I., and grand-daughter of Mary Queen of Scots. The triumphal arch (q), having pillars entwined with ivy leaves, was erected by her husband, the Elector Frederick V. , afterwards King of Bohemia, to celebrate their nuptials; it led to the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her pleasure, and it still goes by the name of Elizabethen Pforte. " When her husband hesitated to accept the crown of Bohemia, this high-hearted wife exclaimed, ' Let me rather eat dry bread at a king's table than feast at the ho.-ird of an elector :' and it seemed as if some avenging demon hovered in the air, to take her literally at her word ; for she and her family lived to eat dry bread — ay, and to beg it before they ate it ; but she would be a queen." — Mrs. Jasie- sox. The granite pillars supporting the cano])y of the well (ii) in the corner of the court of the castle are said by some to have been brought from Charlemagne's palace at Ingel- heini, though they are undoubtedly ilerived from the quarry in the Odenwald. (See p. 471.) In a cellar under the castle {c,f) is the famous Heidelberg Tun ; it is the largest wine cask in the world, being capable of holding 800 hogsheads, 283,200 bottles, which is far less, after all, than the dimensions of the porter vat of a London brewer. In former days, when the Tun was filled with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the top. It has, however, remained empty since 1769, more than half a century. One of the towers which formed the outer defences of the Caslle (rfer 478 ROUTE CV. HEIDELBERG. Sect. VIII. Gesprengte Thitrm) (/)), was under- mined and blown up by the French ; but so thick were the walls, and so strongly built, that though nearly the whole of one side was detached by the explosion, instead of crumbling to pieces, it merely slid down from its place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still remains. Subterranean passages, for the most part still pre- served and accessible, extend under the ramparts. The Gardens and S/iruLherles round the castle, and the adjoining Terrace, to the eastward, afford the most agreeable walks and splendid points of view it is possible to conceive over the Neckar, issuing out of its vine-clad valley, and winding through a plain of the utmost fertility to join the Rhine, which appears here and there in distant flashes glittering in the sun. Spires and towers pro- claim the existence of cities and vil- lages almost without number, and the landscape is bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains. The best general view of the build- ing may be obtained from the extre- mity of the terrace raised upon arches, and projecting over the Neckar. The castle, however, is so grand an object, and the surrounding country so ex- ceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be satisfied with seeing it from one point. He should mount the heights on the right bank of the Neckar, either by a path leading from the end of the bridge, which is steep, or by a more gradual ascent from Neuenheim. An agreeable path, easily accessible, called the Philoso- pher's Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the town. The hill behind it, which sUinds in the angle between the valley of the llliine and Neckar, called the Heiligeberg, presents a more extensive prospect. On the top are ruins of a castle and church of St. ^Michael, wliich suc- ceeded to a Roman fort built on the spot. In 1391, the wild sect called Flaggellants made a pilgrimage to this holy mountain, clad in black, and wearing a white cross in front and behind. In the Thirty Years' War, Tilly opened his trenches to bombard the town from this point. About 50 yards above the bridge, on the right bank, in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the students' duels are fought. Four or five sometimes take place in a day ; and it is no un- common thing for a student to have been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, in the course of 4 or 5 years. 77(6 Kouigstuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies behind the town and castle. The summit may be reached in 1, or H hour's walk, and the view is the most extensive in the neigh- bourhood. A lofty tower has been erected for the convenience of visit- ers, who often repair hither to see the sun fise, and if possible to ex- tend the limits of the panorama, which includes the valleys of the Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt ISIoun- tains on the W., the Taunus on the N. W., the ridge of the Rlack Forest on the S., with the castle of Eber- steinburg, near Baden, and the spire of Strasburg Miivster, 90 miles off. Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack from the right bank had failed : remains of his trenches are still visible. There is a small tavern near the top, called Kohlhof, where persons anxious to see the sun rise sometimes pass the night previously. The banks of the Neckar above Heidelberg are very interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions. The course of the Neckar is described in the Handbook for Southern Germany. A road, overlooking the Neckar, runs from the castle, along tlie shoul- der of the hill to the Wolf's Brnnnen, an agreeable walk of 2 miles. It is a pretty retired nook, named from a spring which rises there. There is a small inn close to it, famed for its trout. Here, according to tradition, the enchantress Jetta, who lived on the spot, and first foretold the great- Baden. ROUTE CV. CARLSRUHE. 479 ness of the house of the Palatinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf. The GardfUK uf Schwetzingen, on one of the roads to Mannheim, are about 7 miles distant. (Route CHI.). Heidelberg is a very cheap place of residence, provisions being moderate and abundant. An English gcntle- mau, who resided here in 1834, states his expenses for the year to have been but 380/., including horses, carriage, house-rent, and servants. At Flo- rence, he spent within the same space of time, and living in the same style, 1800/. exclusive of horses and carriage. Heidelberg is a sort of head-quar- ters for Lohnkutscher (§ 34. ). Many proprietors of coaches living here pos- sess 30 horses, so that the traveller will be at no loss for opportunitias of proceeding from this in any direction. Eilu-ayen f/o daily to Frankfort and Darmstadt, 3Iannheiinand Mayence; to Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg and Basle, Heilbronn, Stuttgard, and Mu- nich ; and twice a week to Wiirzburg and Nuremberg. The journey fronj Heidelberg to Carlsruhe takes about 7 hours in posting. The road to the S. of Hei- delberg scarcely retains any trace of the beauty of the Bergstrasse. 2 Wiesloch. — The large building below the road on the right called Kesslau was formerly a Ducal Pa- lace, but is now a state prison. H Langenbrucken, Inn, Post. U Bruchsal. — Inns: Post, or Ba- denscher Hof Ziihringer Hof This inanimate town of 7200 inhabitants formerly belonged to the Archbishops of Spire, whose xastPulace, now empty, stands near the gate leading to Frank- fort. About 10 miles from Bruchsal the road passes through Durlach, once the residence of the margraves of Baden- Durlach. An old ruined castle upon a height to the left of the road was the cradle of the family in its infancy. The more recent Chateau or Palace in the town is now deserted, and half pulled down ; what remains is turned into a cavalry barrack. In the gar- dens are some Roman altars and mile- stones found in the neighbourhood. A straight avenue of trees, 2 miles long, leads into 3 Caklsruhe. — Inns: Post good, but very dear ; H. d'Angleterre, very good ; Erb Prinz not good. Carls- ruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden, the seat of government and of tjie chambers of representatives, and residence of the court and foreign ministers, contains 22,000 inhabitants. It is a pretty but rather dull town, and one of the youngest capitals of Germany, as it was not begun till 1715. It owes its origin, not to any fitness in the situation for trade or manufactures, but solely to the acci- dent of the Margrave Charles of Baden building a hunting-seat on the spot, which he fixed on from its se- clusion and retirement, the surround- ing country being at the time an al- most uninterrupted forest. He called this retreat " Charles's Rest." In a few years, however, his solitude was invaded, and converted into a popu- lous settlement, and the hunting-lodge became the nucleus of a new city, which derived from it the name of Karls-ruhe. It is regularly built, in the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. The main streets, like the spokes, all radiate from the palace, which termi- nates the vista in every street ; s^^ia^ the citizens who wish " to know ^mch way the wind blows" must necessa- rily look to the palace weathercock. The Palace, Schloss. — " The inte- rior presents nothing more remarkable than the ordinary common-places of a palace — satin hangings, polished oak floors, audience rooms, or-molu clocks, and crimson velvet canopies. " Autumn near the Rhine. In addition to which since the above remarks were written, the furniture has become old, and the damask hangings rather rusty ; so that the palace itself might be passed over without any loss, were it not for the view from the turret which sur- 480 ROUTE CV. CARLSRUHE. Sect. VIII. mounts it, called The Bleythurm. This deserves to be seen, as it will give a correct notion of the singular plan on which Carlsruhc is built. The city is nearly surrounded by the Hardt Forest, which is intersected by roads radiating from the palace, and corresponding with the streets of the town. Beyond this are seen the sil- very windings of the Rhine, and be- hind it the Vosges Mountains in France ; while to the S. the pictu- resque outline of the Black Forest mountains, and on the N. those of the Bergstrasso, complete the panorama. The Theatre attached to the palace is open 3 times a week. The opera is very good here. The building is plain in its exterior, but is well fitted up within. Several of the buildingsof Carlsruhc are praised for their architecture, especially the ProUstant and CnthoUc Chitrches, built by Weinbrenner, and the palace of the Marhgraf of Baden. A Polytechnic School has been recently finished, in the style of architecture of the middle ages. The Estates or Parlia- ment of Baden hold their sittings here : their debates are open to the public. In the centre of the principal square is a Pyraniid of red sandstone, under ■which the founder of Carlsruhc lies buried. The inscription is prettily worded. After mounting the Bley- thurm, and a short walk through the town, the traveller will have seen all that is most worth seeing in Carls- ruhe. If, however, he is bent upon exploring every sight, there is a Pic- ture Gallery in tlie building of the academy, on the left of the ))alace, the contents of which are not very re- markable, and will hardly afford much gratification to those who are acquaint- ed with the better galleries of Ger- many and Italy. There is a Museum of Nalitral History on the right of the palace. Carlsruhc also possesses a library of 90,000 vols, and a botanic garden. The Palace Gardens, and those called Amaliensruhc, which are thrown open most liberally to the public, af- ford agreeable walks. Another plea- sant short walk is to the village of Biertheim, where there are good baths, an accommodation which Carlsruhc does not afford. Stultz, the celebrated tailor, is the founder of an hospital in this town, near the Miihlberg gate, which he endowed with a sum of 100,000 flo- rins ; he was in consequence created a baron. In the shop of Mr. Creutzhauer the bookseller, will be found a number of interesting publications, engravings of all sorts, with guide-books, and views of the Rhine, and of Baden, &c. The Club (§ 40. ) is called the Mu- seinn ; strangers may be admitted to it by a member. AH the German, many French, and a few English pa- pers arc taken in here. Eilwagen go from Carlsruhc to Munich and Vienna .'} times a- week : daily to Stutgard, Frankfort, Basle, and Baden. Carlsruhc is about 6 miles distant from Leopoldshafen, on the Rhine, whence the steam-boats set out to Strasburg and Mayence. (Route CII.) There are two roads from Carlsruhc to Rastadt ; that by Durmersheim is said to be the better, and a little shorter, though the postmasters' dis- tances are the same both ways. The duchy of Baden is one of the most fertile districts in Germany, and that part of it through which the road to Switzerland jjasses produces to- b.icco in large quantities, maize, hops, hemp and tiax, besides every species of grain. It is a country of wine also, antl oil, as the hills are clothed with vineyards, and the roads are shaded by luxuriant wahmt-trees, from the nuts of which an excellent and clear oil is pressed, nearly as good for culinary purposes as fine olive oil. Tlie agricidtural peasantry in this country commonly wear cocked hats, even in tlie fields, — a singular deco- ration ior a ploughboy. Baden. ROUTE CV. RASTADT. — ACHERN. 481 l\ Ettlingen, at the entrance of tlie Alb Thai, is a place of 3300 inhabit- ants. There is a large cotton and pa- per-mill here. 2.1 Rastadt. — Inns : Poste, Goldenes Kreutz ; — Stern. A town of 5600 inhabitants, on the ZVIurg: it isadull and unimportant place. The Palace, built by the eccentric Margravine Sibylla (p. 484. ), is a large edifice of red sandstone. It was tlie re- sidence of the last margraves of Baden, but is now uninhabited, and has a deserted and decaying appearance. Its design is on the wliole handsome ; and it has a further claim to attention, because two Congresses, important in the annals of J^^urope, have assembled under its roof. One in 1714, when Marshal Villars and Prince Eugene signed a treaty of peace in the small unpaintcd cabinet, its walls stained with ink-spots, still pointed out to visitors; the second, in 1797-99, which was terminated abruptly by the mysterious murder of the French en- voys, as they were quitting the town, after a conference. No satisfactory light has ever been thrown upon the instigators or perpetrators of this foul assassination, and direct violation of the law of nations. The Picture gal- lery (so called) is filled with a great deal of trash ; but in another apart- ment are preserved the Turkish tro- phies, horsetail standards, arms, &c., gained by the Margrave Louis in his successful campaigns against the Turks, together with the armour he wore, and his portrait. In further testimony of his successful valour, whole-length portraits of 4 Circas- .sian slaves are pointed out. They formed part of the victor's share of the booty, and accompanied him home. How they were received by the lady Sibylla, his wife, does not appear to be known. About 10 minutes' walk outside the town gate is the spot where the French deputies to the Congress were murdered. It is rumoured that Rastadt is to be made a fortress of the German con- federation, as a frontier defence against France. The great highway from Frankfort to Basle divides at Rastadt : one branch diverges to the right to Kehl and Strasburg; approaching the Rhine, it is called the Rheinstrasse ( Route CVII.): the other continues under the hills, and is called Bergstrasse (not to be confounded with the Bergstrasse N. of Heidelberg), which we shall follow, and describe. The Eilwagen between Frankfort and Basle takes each road on alternate days. The two routes unite together again at Ding- lingen. On quitting Rastadt, the road pass- es through the villages of Sandweyer and Oes. At the latter place a road turns off to Baden, 3 miles distant. (Route CVI.) We then cross the Oes ; and, after passing Sinzheim and Steinbach, reach 2i Biihl. — Inn : Post. About 3 miles from Biihl, at Sashach, on the left of the road, stands an obelisk of granite, erected in 1829 by the French, to mark the spot where their great general Turenne was killed by a can- non ball, %vhile reconnoitring the Aus- trian army in 1675. This is the 4th monimient which has been set up to his memory, the others having been destroyed. His death arrested in- stantly the success of the French arms, no general in his army being found capable of following up his plans : and the most contradictory and futile orders were issued; till the troops, discouraged by inaction and failure, exclaimed, in irony, " Lachez la pie (the piebald charger of Turenne, upon which he had so often led them to victory); elle nous conduira." 1.1 Achern. — Tlic bowels of Tu- renne were interred in the little chapel of St. Nicholas; his body v.-as con- veyed to France. A little beyond Renchen we cross the Rench, a strcan^ descending from the Kniebis. 2 Appenweier. A road goes from hence over the Kniebis to Freuden- 482 ROUTE CV. — OFFENBURG. FREYBURG. Sect. VIII. stadt and Stutgard (39 miles) by Op- penau ( Inn : Krone : not a regular post station, but will supply post-borses); 3 Freudenstadt. Tlie spire of Strasburg Minster is visible on the right. 1. Offexburg. — Inn: La I'ortune (Pfaihlers), good: a capital cuisine, and a clever and obliging host who understands, the humours and wants of the English, as well as their lan- guage. Excellent Affenthaler wine may be had here. Another Baden wine called Klingelberger is exported by the host, at a moderate rate; as well asKirschenwasser, from the Black Forest ; da Poste. Orenburg is a town of 3700 in- habitants, situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig, on tlie direct road from Strasburg to SchafT- hausen (Route CVIII.), which here crosses the road from Frankfort to Basle. Strasburg is about 12 miles distant. 2i Dinglingen. The two branches of the high road from Frankfort to Basle, which divided at Rastadt, here reunite. The western branch is the direct road from Basle to Stras- burg. The village of Kiippenheim is the birthplace of Mr. (afterwards baron) Stultz, the tailor: a neat monument of cast iron has been set up by tlic road- side to his memory. At Ettcnheim, a little to the E. of the road, a party of French emigrants, among whom was the unfortunate Due d'Enghien, were seized, 1804, by 2 columns of troops sent by Napo- leon across the Rhine, who thus com- mitted a breach of the law of nations, and a violation of the territory of the German confederation. The duke was inhumanly shot, G days after. 2^ Kensingen. — Inn: Salmen: good and clean : dinner 3 fr.; bed 2 fr. 1.1 Emmendingen. Beyond the town, the castle of Ilochbcrg, one of the most extensive ruins in Germany, appears on the left. About 3 miles N. of Freyburg, on the high road, is the village of Zlihringen, and near It the ruined castle of the counts of Ziihringen, founders of the reigning family of Baden. From the ruins a most beautiful view is obtained over the surrounding district, called the Breisgau. 2 Freyburg. — Lms : Zaliringer Hof, the best, but neither clean nor quiet ; — Engel (Angel). This, the ancient capital of the Breisgau, is situated in one of the most beautiful spots in the Black Forest, upon the Trcisam, at the mouth of the Ilollenthal (Valley of Hell). It has 14,000 inhabitants. The Minster is remarkable as being almost the only large Gothic church in Germany wliich is finished : it is equally admired for the delicate sym- metry of its proportions, and tlie good taste of its decorations. It was begun, under Conrad of Ziihringen, between 1122 and 1152. The nave, west front, tower, and rich porch below it, date from the Xlllth century, 1236-72, and are by far the finest jiart of the building : the choir is inferior, and of a later period, 1513. The oldest part is that between the choir and the nave, with the external turrets, in the round style. The tower exhibits a skilful transition from a square base into an octagon, which is surmounted by a pyramid.il spire of the most ex- quisite open-work tracery, all of stone, of extreme boldness as well as light- ness. The height of the tower is 380 feet. It presents one of the very few instances in which a tower of the kind has been completed. Beneatli it is the main entrance into the church, l)y a magnificent portal, riclily ornamented with sculptures. The interior of the cluirch contains the monument and armed efl^gy of Berchtold V., last Duke of Ziihringen : a curious carved pulpit; and a singular piece of sculp- ture of the Lord's Supper, consisting of 1 3 figures, by an artist named Hauser, 1561. The windows are filled with stained glass, of the most beautiftil colours: the oldest arc of the XlVth Baden. ROUTE CVI CARLSRUIIE TO BADEN. 483 centurj-. Some very good modern painted glass has recently been inserted. In tlic chapels on the left of the choir, as you pass the altar, are some remarkable carvings in wood ; one represents the Virgin sheltering be- neath her mantle a whole host of popes, cardinals, bishops, &c. Over the north door, leading into the choir, are singular bas-reliefs, representing the Creation of Man, &c. The painting over the high altar, recently set within an elegant Gothic frame work is by Holbtiii; at least, the shutters with the figures of the 12 Apostles are his. At the back of it is a more remarkable picture of the Crucifixion, by Buldiiyir/ Griin (a rare master, and a native of the Black Forest,) painted 1512. Beneath the main subject are a row of portraits of magistrates of Freyburg. T/ie Uiuversity has risen in reputa- tion of late, and the number of stu- dents is said to be on the increase. It is the Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden : Heidelberg is Pro- testant. According to the recent con- cordat, Freyburg is now the see of an archbishop. Near the gate leading to Frankfort a Protestant Church has recently been erected. It is an elegant building in Romanesque (Byzantine), style, with an octagon tower, and has been skil- fully transferred, stone by stone, from an old convent at Ettenheim,to which it was originally attached. The Kaufliaus, near the cathedral, is a very quaint Gotliic building, rest- ing on arches. It would not be right to conclude the account of Freyburg without al- luding to the delightful walks round the castle hill {Schlossherg) about a quarter of an hour's walk from the minster. The eye ranges over the vale of the Trelsam, bounded in the distance by the waving outline of the Black Forest hills rising one behind another. The filigree-work of the spire is seen from this to the greatest advantage. The ascent begins near the Schwaben Thor. The beautiful scenery of the Hbllen- thal, on the way from Freyburg to Schafl"hauscn, is described in Route CIX. A traveller, not intending to pass through it on his way to Swit- zerland, should make an excursion from Freyburg as far as Steig, 11 miles, to explore its beauties. The post waggon, which runs through it once or twice a week to Donauesch- ingen, was, in 1835, a tedious con- veyance, taking 20 or 22 hours to the journey. It passes the finest scenes in the dark. From Freyburg to Basle is a drive of 7 hours. 2 Krozingen. 2 Muhlhcim. — About .*■} miles E. of the high road are the baths of Baden- weilcr. The waters were known to the Romans, and the baths erected by them were discovered some years ago in a very perfect state of preservation. The bath-house affords good accom- modation. The wine, called JNIark- gravler, is grown near this. It is a long ascent from Miihlheim to 2 Kaltenherljerg, a solitary post- house and inn. From the summit of tlie hill a most extensive view is ob- tained over the Rhine, on one hand, and the Black Forest hills on the other. Since Baden has adopted the Prus- sian custom-house system, the exa- mination of the goods and person of travellers coming from Switzerland is strictly enforced on the frontier ( ^ 30. ) Before entering Basle, the road ap- proaches the Rhine ; on its left bank lies Ilviningen, a French fortress, now dismantled. 3 B.\SLE. In the Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland. ROUTE CVI. CARI-SlirUE TO BADEN-BADEN. 4l Germ. milcs = 2U Eng. miles. Eilwagen go to and fro daily, and Lohnkutschcr are constantly passing. y 2 48i ROUTE CVI. — CARLSRUIIE TO BADEN. SeCt. VIII. The post-master at Cailsrulie char{]jes forapost caltcliewith 2horsos, carrying 2 persons and their baggage, 6 fl. to Baden, including a halt of ^ hour at the Favourite. The post-boy is well paid ^vith 1 fl. 20 kr. The road usually taken is that al- ready described, p. 481., by 1 Ettlingen, and 2 Rastadt. Another road, not IMacadamised, sandy, and scarcely practicable, ex- cept in dry weather, leads by the Fa- vourite, an old-fashioned and deserted chateau of the margraves of Baden. The way lies through woods and over heaths, and grosses the jVIurg a little below Cu)ipenheim. The Fa- vourite, distant about i a mile from that village, was built by the Mar- gravine Sibylla, wife of the heroic Louis of Baden, who fought against the Turks along with Prince Eugene. It is neither large nor very handsome, and any splendour it may originally have possessed is faded and decayed. It is chiefly interesting from the sin- gular character of Sibylla, its founder. In her youth she was very handsome, and not a little vain of her beauty ; as a proof of which she has left in her bou- doir 60 or 70 portraits of herself, in as many different costumes. The old- fashioned furniture of the chateau, ori- ginally tawdry rather than tasteful, is nearly worn out. There are no works of art in the house ; but one or two old cabinets filled with glass, and some singular Dutch porcelain, are kept in the lower rooms. In the garden of ■ the cliateau is an odd, many-sided building, rescml)ling a Chinese tem- ple: this was Sihi/Ua^s Chapel. A youth of frivolity seems, in h.er case, to have terminated in an old age of bigotry and superstition. Before an altar within it, in a chamber designedly rendered as gloomy as a dinigcon, slie spent the greater part of her days and ' nights, during the latter years of her life, inflicting ujjon herself all kinds of privations and penances. Here is j still preserved the scourge of whip- j cord, ending in wire points (like a cat- o'-nine-tai!s), witii which she used to discipline herself; also, her hair shirt, and a cross of wire net-work, with points turned inward, which she wore next her skin, while 2 circular jneces of the same were placed for her to kneel upon. Her bed was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor ; and her only companions were two wooden figures, as large as life, of the Virgin and St. Jolui. Tiiese were her guests, and with them she used to sit down to table ; equal portions of every meal being served to all three ; but their share was afterwards given to the poor. The Favourite is about 6 miles from Baden. Those who follow the high post- road turn to the E. at Rastadt. At the village of Oes we fall in with the road from the Favourite, and beyond Oes the valley begins to contract, and the hills to rise on either side. On the left hand, the old castle of Baden is seen crowning the summit of a fir- clad hill : on the right rises the hill of Yberg, on which another castle is perched. Both of them were, perhaps, Roman forts originally. H Baden (called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from places of the saiTie name in Switzerland, and near Vienna). — Inns : Badensclier Hof (much frequented by the English); Zahringer Hof; Salm (Salmon); Ilirsch. There are many other inns, and nearly ,', of the houses in the town are let as lodgings, but do not j)rovide dinners. The Sonne and Blume are respectable establishments of this class. Tiie price of rooms varies, according to season and situation, from .S fl. to 12 or 14 fl. a week. A bath costs 24 kr. =8i//. ; a bed, 48 kr. to 1 fl. per night ; "breakfast, ^G kr. All the prin- cipal inns are ])rovided with baths, but tliere in no building here apj)ropri- ated exclusively to batldny. They have, also, daily tables d'h6te, varying Baden. ROUTE CVI. BADEN. 485 ill price from 48 kr. upwards. The liadensclicr and Ziihringer Ilofs have a 2d table cthute at a later hour (4), and at a higher price, to suit the English ; that atone o'clock costs 1 fl. ; that at four, 1 fl. 24 kr. There can be but one opinion as to the beauty of the situation of the town of Baden, embosomed among hills forming an ott'set or commencement of the Black Forest range, and seated on the banks of the Oes, a stream which, tliough insigni6cant in size, once formed the boundary line between the Franks and Alemanni. The town has about 4500 permanent inhabitants, and is built chiefly on the slope of a hill, owing to the narrowness of the valley. The mineral springs were known to and appreciated l)y the Romans, who fixed a colony here, and called it Ciciias Aurelia Aqueinis. It was for 6 centuries the abode of the Mar- graves of Baden, who at one time deserted it for Ilastadt in the flat plain of the Rhine : at present, the Grand Duke of Baden usually passes the summer months in the villa which he has here. Baden is considered one of the most fashionable German water- ing-places (i 38.): during the season Princes may be met with in abund- ance, but are usually outnumbered by blacklegs. It has the greater attrac- tion of l)eing by far the most beautiful of the German baths in its situation ; even surpassing in this respect the Brunnen of Nassau. The surrounding country, without the sublimity and grandeur of Switzeiland, is distin- guished by a pleasing and romantic wildness ; it is as it were a prelude to the Alps. The neighbourhood will afford almost endless gratification in the beauty of its prospects, and the number and variety of the rides and walks, cut for miles in every direction through the forests, and up the sur- rounding hills. ^Vhatever be the taste or disposi- tion of the traveller, he will assuredly find something to please him here. If disposed to be gay, there are balls, concerts, gaming-tables, and many of the luxuries of a capital ; and, if tired of the bustle of the promenade and saloon, he may jjlunge, by 20 differ- ent paths, into the depths of the dark woods or deep valleys, and in 10 mi- nutes enjoy solitude so complete that he may fancy himself far from the haunts of men. From the number of woods and avenues around, the in- valid may enjoy a shady walk at all hours, even in the height of summer. The months of July and August are the season when the baths are most frequented, but visitors arc constantly coming and going from May to Oc- tober, if the weather be fine. In 1 833 13,900 persons resorted to the baths. The number of English visitors has increased so much of late that the place assumes the appearance of a settlement of our countrymen. This influx has had the ef!ect of diminish- ing its advantages of cheapness and retirement ; as, within a few years, the price of every thing has been raised nearly one half. Of late, many colo- nists of our nation have taken up their permanent abode here, and remain through the winter. " A handsome, and in some instances, splendid suite of apartments for a family may be ob- tained, for the winter, at the rate of 30 or 40 louis d'or, rather less than so many pounds sterling. Butchers' meat is rather more than St/., and but- ter 8t/. a pound of 1 6 ounces. A hare may be purchased for about 1 8c/., a haunch of very good venison for about 4s. ; and Aflenthaler and Mar- graviat (the best red and white wines of the Duchy) for about 84. 169. * to Li^ge, by Battice, 169. to Treves, 286. Alberndorf, ;J79. Alexisbad, 353. Alf, 28-2. Aiken, 284. ' Alhmaar, .'iS. Altenahr, 2i;P. jUlcitlicrg, abbey of, 328. Altonburg, 421. Altona, i93. 296. Alost, 1M. Alzoy, 4jt). Amber fishery on the Baltic, 365. Amerongcn, 64. Amersfoort, 65. Amstkrdam, 42. Manufactures of, 44. Palace, 44. Churches, 45. Picture Gal- lery, 46. Charitable institutions, 48. Spin House. 43, 49. Felix Meritis, 49. Dock- yard, ,';0. Water boats, 50- to Kroeck and Saardam, 52. • to Tcxel and Helder, 60. to Utrecht and Nymegen, 62. to .Ariihcim, 65. to Groninyen and Frederiksoord, 6t3. to lircmen, G9. Andenne, 160. Andernach, 241. Androasberg, 353. Annwoiler — Castle of Trifels, 467. Antwi;hp, 125 — 138. Cathedral and works of Kubens, 126. Spire, 1-29. Churches — of St. Jacques, 129. ; St. Paul, 131.; St. An- drew, 131. ; Augustins, 132. ; St. Anthony, 132. ; Museum of pictures, 133 — 136. Docks, 137. Citadel, and siege, 137. H6tel de Ville, Bourse, 138. Railroad, 139. Antwerp, Siege by the Duke of Parma, 102. * to London, 103. — to Rotterdam by land, 103. by water, 104. tn Brussels, 139. • Ghent, 124. ApoUinarisberg, 240. Appeldoorn, 69. Ardennes, the forest of, 174. 177. Argenfels, 240. Arkona in RUgcn, 360. Arlon, 174. Arnau, 377. Arnheim, 66. • to Utrecht, 71. to Cologne, 212. Arnsberg, 326. Arolsen, 326. Artaveldt, James and Philip von, 120. Assche, LW. Assen, 68. Assmanshausen, 258. Ath, 94. Audenarde, 98. Auerbach, 472. Auerstiidt, 386. Backaracti, 254. Bacon, Lord, on Travel, rx. Baden, duchy of, 428. 480. Baden Baden, 484. Inns, 484. Beauties of situation, 485. Hot springs, 485. New Schloss, Secret Tribunal, and its dungeons, 486. Church, 486. Convent, 486. Con- ver.«ations Haus, 487. Physicians, Post Office, 4S8. Excursions around ; Alt Scliloss, 488. Ebersteinburg, Lichtenthal, Gernsbach, and Murgthal, 489. to Wildbad, 490. * to Carl.-iruhe, 483. to Strasburg, 491. Badenweiler, 483. Baggage, IPS. Ban de la Roche, 495. Barmen, 325. The Bastei, 412. Bastognc, 174. Baths, Aix-la-Chapelle, 216. — ^ Alexisbad, oo'o. 502 INDEX. Baths, Baden-Baden, 484. Bertrich, 272. Briickenau, 382. Dobberan, 299. Ems, 429. Ilof-Geismar, 342. .^^ Homburg, 452. Liebcnstein, 422. Liebewerda, 371. Putbus, 359. Pyrmont, 343. Reinerz, 378. Salzbrunn, 377. Schandau, 414. Scheveningen, 31. Sclilangenbad, 435. Schwalbach, 432. ^— Warmbrunn, 374. Battice, 172. Baumans and Biels-HOhle, 352. Bautzen, 370. Bavarian (?) broom girls, 338. Beloh'm, 77. Introductory information, 77. 88. General view) of, 81. Passports, 77. Monev, 78. Posting, 78. ; other modes of travelling, 80. Railroads, 81. Cities of, and architecture, 82. Bensheim, 473. ■ , Berg, ancient duchy of, 331. Bergers, 361. Bergheim, 222. Bergstrasse, 470 — 473. Bergues, 96. Berlin, 304. Inns, 304. Post-office — Dros- kies, 304. Society in, 305. King of Prus- sia, 305. Untcrden Linden, 306. Bran- denburg gate, 306. Monuments, 306. Churches, 307. Royal palace, 307. Kunst cabinet, 307. King's private residence, 309. New Museum, vases, and bronzes, 310. Sculpture, 310. Pictures, 311—313. Royal Library, 313. University, 313. Mu- seum of natural history, 314. Egyptian museum, 314. Arsenal, 315. Iron foun- dery, 316. Gewcrbe Schulc, 316. Theatres, 316. Music, Sing Academic, 316. Coli- seum, 316. Winter gardens, 316. Restau- rateurs, 316. Confectioners, 316. Best shops, 317. Post-office, 318. Environs, 318. Tegel, 318. Tivoli and Kreutzberg, 318. Park, 318. Reviews, 319. * to Hamburg, 304. to Potzdam and Leipzig, 319. to Dresden, 324. * to Dusseldorf, by Hesse Casscl and Elberfcld, 324. to Hanover, 330. to Cologne, by Minden, 330. , * by Magdeburg, Bruns- wick, and Paderborn, ":S\. to Stettin and Swinemunde, 356. . to Uantzig, 361. ; and Konigsberg, S65. to Broniberg, 366. to Frankfort on the Oder, and Breslau, 367. to the Riescngcbirge, Hirschberg, and Warmbrunn, 373. Bcrncastel, 280. Bertrich baths, 272. Beverwyck, 58. Biberich, 264. Bielefeld, 329. Biervliet, 101. Bicsboch, 73. Binger Loch, 258. BiNGEN, 259. St. Roch's Chapel, 259. , excursions from, 2G0. to Mayence, by Ingelheim, 452. to Mayence, up the Rhine, 261. . to Kreutznach and Saarbruck, 454. to Treves, 290. * to Coblenz, 259. Birkenfeld, 455. Bitburg, 288. Bitterfield, 324. Black Forest .at Baden, 489. the Kinzig, 495. sources of the Danube in, 496. manufactures of the, 496. 500. St. Blaize, abbey of, 499. Blankenburg, 352. Blouze, use of a, xxv. Blucher, his grave, 370. Bomniel, 75. Bondorf, 499. Bonn, 234. University, 254. Museum, 234. Popplcsdorf, 235. Kreutzberg, 1m. to the Valley of the Ahr, 268. "* to the Eifel, and Lake of Laach, 270. Boppart, 251. Borcette, 220. Borsdorf, apples, 390. Bouillon, 178. Boulder stones, 301. Bouvigne, 176. Braekel, 331. Brandenburg, 336. Braubach, 2^.] Brauneberger wine, 280. Braunsberg, 365. , Breda, 103. Brege river, 4''6. Bremen, 337. Territory and commerce, S3?, Bleikeller, Rathhaus, 338. Brcmerhafen, 338. * to Dusseldorf, 337. * to Hamburg and Oldenburg, 301. to Amsterdam, 69. Breslav, 368. Churches, &c. university, 369. Commerce, wool fairs, 369. * to Dresden, 370. to the Riesengebirge, 372. to Glatz and Prague, 378. to Schweidnitz and Landshut, 377. • to Berlin, 368. Briegach, 496. Brielle, 20. Brilon, 326. Brochedon's Advice to Travellers, xm. Bracken, ascent of, 351 . Spectre of the, 351. W'itches, 352. View from — seldom seen, 352. Brock, '-iS. Brohl, trass mills of, 240. , valley of, 241.270. Bromberg, 367. to Danzig and Berlin, 367. Broom girls, 338. Briickenau baths, 382. Rruchsal, 479. Briges, 107. Les Halles, 108. Churche», 109. Paintings of Hemling at, 110. Hotel de Villc, 110. Academy, 111. Palais de Justice, ill. . to Calais, 99. to Ghent, 112. Brunnen of Nassau, 429 — 443. Bri^nswick, 332. New palace, 332. Museum, 332. Albert Durer's Ecce Homo, 3.32. Cathedral, oo3. Black Brunswickers, 334. INDEX. 503 Brunswick to Berlin, by Magdeburg, 334. Bri'ssels, 142 — 150. Park, 145. King's pa- lace, 143. Palace of the Prince of Orange, 143. Chambers, 143. Museum, 144. Li- brary, 145. Hotel de Ville, 146. Police office, 146. Broodhuis, 137. Cathedral of St. Gudule, 147. Notre Dame de Chapelle, 147. Shops, Lace, 149. Theatre, caffes, post office, diligences, 148. Promenades, and environs, 149. Excursion to Water- loo, 151. to I'ervueren, 169. * to Calais, by Lille, 91. 95. * to Ghent, 15. * to Malines and Antwerp, by rail-road, 142. to Waterloo, Namur, &c. 151. to .\ix-la-Chapelle, by Liege, 151. ,by Louvain and Bat- tice, 169. , by Maestricht, 172. to Paris bv Cambray, 178. to Paris by St. Quentin, 181. " Bubbles," utility of the, 432. Biickeberg, 330. Buhl, 481. Butzbach, 309. Bunzlau, 374. Burg, ma. Burtscheid, 220. Biitgenbach, 286. Cadsand, 100. Calais, 89. to Brussels, by Lille, 91. to Dunkirl;, Ypres, and Ghent, 95. to Ostciul and Bruges, 98. to Charleroi and Namur, 173. Cambrai, 180. Caniperdown, 59. Canals in Holland, II. Canal, Great, of North Holland, 52. Garden, 283. Carlsri'iie, fi9. Its origin, palace, 479. Bleythurm, 480. Theatre, other buildings, ■ 4!50. to Baden, 483. to Strasburg, 480—491. to llasic, 480. • to Heidelberg and Frankfort, 479—481. Carriage, travelling, xxiv. Carriages, duty on, 89. Cassel in France, K. on the Rhine, 264. 453. C.\ssF.L, Hesse, 359. Palace, museum, 340. Pictures, 340. .Marble bath, 341. Wil- helmshohe, 341. to Berlin, 326. to Hanover, 342. 345. to Gottingcn and the Hartz, 345. • to Dusscldorf, 326. • to Frankfort, 338. to Eisenach and Jleiningen, 421. Castles on the Rhine, 255. Catsbach, 372. Caub, 254. Celle, SOO. Charlemagne's grave, 218. Charlemont, 177. Charleroi, 174. Charles V., 121. Charlotteiiburg, 303. Chaudfontaine, 165. Chemnilx, 419. Chimes, or carillons, 84. Chocquier, 161. CiiiRciiES, English, abroad — Rotterdam, 23. Amsterdam, 46. Ghent, 115. Brussels 149. Baden, 488. Hamburg, 296. Circular notes, xvi. Clausthal, 348. School of Mines, mines, 349. Reservoirs, smelting houses, 349. Cleves, 215. Clothes for travelling, xxv. Cobern, 285. CoBLENz, 245. 249. Fortifications of, 245. Good liead.quarters for travellers on the Rhine, 248. Church of St. Castor, and fountain, 246. Wine cellars at, 246. Courts of justice, 246. Pleasant excursions from, 248. * to Cologne, 245. to Mayence, up the Rhine, 249. to Munster Mayfeld, and Klz, 272. to Treves, by post-road, 271. , * up the Moselle, 278. to Frankfort, by the Brunnen of Nas- sau, 429. Cobttrg — described, 423. * to Eisenach, 423. * to Gotha and Gottingen, 424. * to Leipsig by Rudolstadt. Cochem, 282. Coins, tables of foreign, xl — xlv. " Cologne, 222. Cathedral, 222. Shrine of the three kings, 223. Dom-bild, 224. Church of St. Peter, and Rubens' Cruci- fixion, 224. Church of St. Ursula and 11,000 Virgins, 225. Santa Maria, 225. St. Ciereon, 226. Museum of pictures, 226. Eau de Cologne, 227. to Frankfurt bv Siegburg and Limburg, 291. to Altenberg Abbey, 3fi8. * to Aix la Chapelle, 222. to Bonn and Coblenz, up the Rhine, 233. * to Dusseldorf, 222. to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 330. to Berlin, by Minden, 330. to Hanover, 328. to Nymegen and Rotterdam, by the Rhine, 216. • by land, 217. Compeigne, 182. Commissionaire, XXTII. Constance — described, 497. Minster, 497. council of, 498. * to SchaflThauscn, 497. Continent, landing on the, xxvil. Conz, 175. Copernicus at Frauenburg, 364. Corvey, 332. Couriers, xxi. at Calais, 86. Courtrav, 97. Crefeld, 215. Cronberg, 452. Cudowa, 379. Customhouses abroad, xsvui.; in England, X.WIII. of Prussia, 207. Custriii,361. Cuxhaven, 293. Dahn, 467. Danube, source of the, 496. Danzig, 362. Granaries, Cathedral, 362. Picture by Van Eyck, 362. Arthus Hof, fortifications, 3&3. Duke of, 363. 504- INDEX. I^ANZiG to Marienburg and Konigsberg, 363. * to Berlin, 361. • by Bromberg, 3f>7. DARMSTAin-, 4f>S. Catholic church, palace, pictures, 468. Fossils, 469. Theatre, Exercier Haus, 469. Gardens, C.issino, wild boars, 469. —— to the Odenwald, 469. to Heidelberg and Carlsruhe,470. » to Frankfort, 468. Daun, 290. Delft, 24. Delitsch,324. Dendermonde or Termonde railroad, 1C3. Dennewitz, 324. Deutz, 2-29. Good inn, 223. Deux I'onts, 467. Deventer, 69. Diebelich,285. Dietz, 448. Dinant, 176. to Givct, 176. to Hans-sur-Lesse, Bouillon, 177. Dinglingen, 482. Dirschau, 36i>. Dobberan, 299. DoUar-s Prussian, COS. Saxon, 381. Donave.ichingen, source of Danube, 493. to Scliaffhausen, 497. , to Strasburg, 496. * to Freyburg, 500. Donnersberg, 456. Dordrecht, or Dort, 73. Svnoil of, 7.3. Drarhciifels, 238. Dreiser Weiher, 290. Dresden, .391. Post-office, 392. Elbe bridge, .392. Churches, and church music, 392. Terrace of Bruhl, 392. Palace, 392. ■ Collections — mode of obtaining admission, 393. Green vaults, 393. Picture gallery, 396. Plaster casts, 396. Zwinger, 399. Rustkammer, or armoury, 399. Museum ' of natural history, 403. Engravings and drawings, 403. Japanese palace, 403. Anti. quities, 4(i3. Porcelain, 405. Library, 406. Theatre, 406. Clubs, shops. 406. St'ruve's Spa, 407. Knvirons, 407. Woreiu's monu- ment, 408. Dance of Death, 4. to Bruges, 93. Durcn, 222. Diirkheim, 465. Durlach, 479. DussEi.noRF, 213. School of painting, 214. to Berlin, bv ElbcrfeUI, 327. to Colo^Mip, 214. * to Nyinegen and Arnheim, 213. to Hanover, 22''. to Bremen, by Munster, 336. * to Uotterdani, 213. Dutch manners, peculiarities of, 18. Dutch clocks, 496. Dutch school of art, 16. Dykes of Holland, 9. Eberb.ich, 263. 438. Cellars of, 263. Eberstein Neu, 490. Eburnburg. — Sickengen's Castle, 454. Ehrenbreitstein, 247. Ehrenburg, 284. Ehrenfels, 253. Eibenstock, 421. Eifel, the Upper, 288. the Lower, 270. Inhabitants of, 237. excursions in, 270. Eiljacht on the Moselle, 278. Eisenach, 382. Wartburg, 383. Eisleben, Luther's birth-place, 299. Elbe, mouth of the, 292. Sources of, 343. 376. In Saxony the most beautiful parts of its course, 409. from Schandau to Dresden, 415. Elderfeld, 325. to Berlin, 325. to Hanover, 300. ^*to Cologne, 302. Elbing, 364. Elbingerode, 352. Ellfeld, 264. Eltville, 21)4. E/z, castle of, 283. Emmendengon, 482. Emmerich, 212. Ems, 429. . . to Frankfort, 431. Engen, 496. Engcrs, 22.5. Enghien, 9.5. Enghien, Duke, his treacberous]seizure, 482. Eppstein, 4.W. Erhach, 263. Erb.iih in the Oldenwald, 471» Erfurt, 384. Erpeler Ley, 240. Erzgebirgc, 420. Ettcnheim, 482. Kupen, 169. Extra post, 188. 210. Evck, Van, .school of, 84. Paintings of at Berlin, 312. At Ghent, 116. Falkenstein, 451. Favourite chateau, 484. Fohrbellin, .302. FeUiberp, 452. Fire watch, 203. Flemish Scliool of Painting, 84, 85. Fleurus, battle of, 174. Florins, 387. Flushing, ICO. Foutenoy, 94. Fraipont, 165. Franchimont, 165. Frankciuhal, 459. Frankfort on the Main, 443, 447. Inns, Old and New Town, 413. Cathedral, Romer, Saalhof, 443. Stae2. University, 483. to Schaffhausen, by the valley of Hell, 499. to Basle, 483. Freye, 176. Friedburg, 371. Friedericlistein, 2-24. Friedland, Wallenstein's Castle, 371. Friesdorf, 236. Fulda, 382. Fumes, 9S. Furstenburg, 497. Palace of Prince, 496. FUrstenstein, 343. Geissenheim, 262. Geldern, 215. Gclnhausen, 382. Genapi)e, 158. GER.M.».\y. — Preliminary information, 183. 206. Passports, ia3. Inns, 184. Tables- d'hote, 185. Beds, 186. Valets de place, 185. Custom-houses, 187. Mmles of tra- velling, 188. Schnellposts, 190. Voituricr, 191. Peci.liaritiesof German manners, li.'5. Public gardens and taverns, 197. Kcrmes, 19S. Turnpike-men, U'9. HandwerKs burschen, 199. Clubs, 205. Watering places, 200. Towns, 203. Burial grounds, 205. Germersheim, 421 . Germershiem to Strasburg, 464. Genisbach, 490. Gerolstein. 289 Ghent, 113. 123. Belfry, 114. Church ofSt. Bavon, 115. Paintings of Van Evck, 116. University, 117. H.'.tcl de Ville, 117. Gal- lery of Mr. Scharaps, US. Museum, 118. JIarche au Vc-ndrcdi, 119. The English at Ghent, 120. Charles V., i21. Cita.iel, 122. Beguinage, 122. Byloque, 123. House of Correction, 123. * to Bruges, 1 '. .3. to Brussels, l.")0. to Antweri), 123. *to Calais, 97. *to Ouilenarde, 98. Ghistelles, ! 9. Oiessen, — University, &c., 5.39. descent of the Lahn from, 447. Gillenfeld, 290. Givet, 177. Gl:itz, .378. Gliickstadt, 293. Goar, St., 252. Godesberg, 236. to the Seven Mountains, 237. to the Ahr VaUey, 268. Goldberg, 371. Gouda, 70. Painted Glass at, "0. Gondorf, 2S4. Gorcuni, 7 J. Gurlitz, 371. Go5lar, 349. Cathedral and altar of Krodo, 319. Kammelsberg, 348. Guteiifels, 254. Gotha, 38.J. Gorri.sGEM, 545. University, 345. Library and Museum, 346. to the Hartz, 316. to Cassel, 345. Gravellnes, 95. Greifswald, 358. Groningen, 68. Groschen, 208. Gute Groschen, SSL Grossenhayn, 324. Grotius, escaiM; from prison, 73. Griiiieberg wine, 368. Guililers, Dutch, 2. Gustavus Adolphus landing in Germany, 357. His death at Liitzen, 387. On the Khine, 4;58. Gutemberg, the inventor of printing, 267. Haarburg, 300. Haarlem, 37. Organ, Si. Tulips, £8. Siege, 40. Lake of, 41. to Amsterdam, 41. to Alkmaar and Heldcr, 'SI. HageL-kaule, 289- Hagen, 3ij. Haule, 25 — 32. Binnenhof, 95. Picture Gallery, 26. Japanese Museum, £8. His- torical relics, 29. Storks, .30. Theatre, 30. House in the wood, Scheveningen, 31. to Utrecht, 70. Hal, 95. Halberstadt, 3:50. Halle, 327. Salt Springs, 327. University, Orphan House, 328. HaMuren, 327. Ham, 1S2. Hambach, 466. Hambiro, 293. 296. Monev, 293. Costumes, 294. Buildings, 295. Institutions, 2<». Jungfernstieg, 295. Ramparts, 295. En- virons, 296. * to London, 292. to Lubec, 296. to Bremen, 300. to Hanover, 301. to Dobberan and Rostotk, 299. to Ui'rlin,o01. Hameln, .>44. Hanau, j'^l. Handwerks-burschen, Ifi9. Hanover. 344, 345. Palaces and Church, *H. Linrary, 3t4. Picture Gallery, 344. Leibnitz's Monument, 344. Waterloo Monument, 344. Herrnhausen, 345. »to Hamburg, 301. * to Gottingen, 345. * to Frankfort by Cassel, 344. 7. 506 INDEX. Hanover, to Berlin, 328. 330. * to Cologne, by Minden, 328. * to Pymiont, Hi. Hans 8ur Lesse, cave of, 177. Harlingen, 69. Hartekamp, 37. Hartz, the, 3+6. 354. General account of, best mode of visiting, exaggerated descrip- tions of its scenery, 345. Roads, 347. Mines, 348, 349, 350. Hartzgerode, 354. Hattenheim, 263. Hatto, Bishop, and the rats, 258. Hausach, 4y5. Heidelbero, 473-479. Us misfortunes, 473. University and library, 474. Club, Churches, 474. Olympia Morata's grave, 475. Castle, 476. Tun, 477. Garden, walks, Wolfsbrunnen, 478. Hirschgasse, Ko- nigstuhl, 478. to Carlsruhe and Baden, 479. * to Schwelzingen and Mannheim, 465. .^— *to Darmstadt and Frankfort, 373. Heidenmauer, 466. Heiligenstadt, 3-26. Heisterbach, ruined abbey of, 237. Helder, 59. Great dyke of, 59. to Amsterdam, 60. Heligoland, 292. Hell, Valley of, 499. Helmstadt, 334. Heppenheim, 473. Herford, 329. Herring Fishery, 21. 51. Herrnhut, 370. Hiddensoe, 361. Hildburghausen, 423. Hildesheim, S^). Hirniskretschen, 415. Hirschberg, 374. Hochheim vineyards, 453. Hochkirch, battle of, 370. Hcichst, 454. Hof, 420. Hofgeismar, 342. Hohentiviel, 497. Hohnstein, 413. Holland, introductory information, 1 — ^20. Passports, 1. Money, 2. Trekschuiten, 4. General description of, 5. Dykes of, 9. Canals, 11. Gardens, 15. Paintings, 16. Manners of the inhabitants, 18. Her- ring Fishery, 21. 51. HoLH.M), North, 53 — 62. Hollenthal, 499. Hombvrg, Hesse, 452. in Rhenish Bavaria, 456. Hoorn, 61. Hornburg, 495. Hornu, 179. Hougoumont, 156. House in the wood, Hague, SI. Hoxter, 331. 343. to Pyrmont, 343. Hubcrtsburg, 391. Hubert, St., 177. Hudibras, Author of, account of Holland, 8. Hundsriick, 290. Huss, John, trial and execution of, 498. Huy, 160. Igel, Roman monument at, 278. llsenburg, 351. Ingelhcim, palace of Charlemagne, 453. Interment, prevention of premature, 205. Iserlohn, 326. Jager, the Wild, legend of, 472. Jemappcs, 179. Jena, University, 386. Johan-Georgenstadt, 421. Jo/ianni.ibfig, 262. Wine, 262. Juliers, 221. Jung Buiizlau, 378. Juterbogk, 324. Kaiserlautern, 456. Katsbach, battle of the, 372. Katwyk, the Rhine at, 36. Katze, castle, 23.1. Keftl, 491. Steamboat from, i&i. Kenzingen, 482. Kienast, castle and legend, 375. Kinzig, valley of the, 495. Kircheim, Boland, 456. Kirmes, 198. Klausthal, ,348. Kletzke, 302. Klopstoek's grave, 296. Birth-place, 355. Kohl, 222. KoNisBERO, 365. Cathedral, 365 University, 365. Pillau, sturgeon and amber fishery, 365. * to Tilsit and Memel, 366. * To Danzig and Berlin, 365. Konigslutter, 334. Kiinigstein in Saxony, 415. Kdnigstein in the Taunus, 451. Konigstuhl, 250. Konigsgratz, 379. Kortryk, 97. Kreutzberg, near Bonn, 235. Kreutzers, 427, 428. Kreutznach, 454. to Worms, by Alzey, 459. Kuhstall, 414 Kuilenburg, 76. Kunncrsdorf, battle of, 367. Kustrin, 361. Laach, Lake of, 270. Excursion to, 241, 270. Abbey of, 271. Laeken, palace of, 150. Lahn, the river, mouth of, 250. Descent of, from Giessen to Ems, 447. Lahnstein, 250. Landau, 466. Landsberg, 361. Landshut, 376. Landstuhl, 456. Langen Schwalbach, 432. Languagp.s, value of foreign, to the tra- veller, XVI. Lauenburg, 27.5. Laufzettcl, 190. Lausitz, Lusatia, 336. Lceuwarden, 89. Leipsig, 388. Fairs, 388. Book trade, 389. University, 389. Auerbach's cellar, 389. Gardens, 390. Battle of, 390. * to Berlin, 296. to Dresden, 390. • to Frankfort, o88. to Carlsbad, by Altenburg and Zwickau, 420. to Coburg, 425. Lek, 75. Lennepp, 324. INDEX. 507 Leopoldshafen, 46i. Leubus, 368. LiBVDE.v, 3-2. Siege of, 32. University, 34. Museum of Natural History, 34. Japanese and Egyptian Museum, 34. I.iel)en»tein, 251. Baths in the Thuringer Wald, 422. Laebethaler Grund, 411. Liebewerda Baths, in Bohemia, 371. Liebfrauenraileh, 458. Liege, 161. Coal mines, 161. Bishop's Palace, 161. Localities and events of Ouen- tin Durward, 11)2. University, 1(V3. Bridge and Citadel, 164. Walloon dialect, 164. to Chaude Fontaine and .Spa, 165. to .\ix la Chapelle, by Verviers, 165. , by Battice, 172. • to Louvain, 172. *to Namur, 161. Liegnitz, 372. Lihenstein, 412. 415. Lille, 92. to Brussels, 93. to Bruges, 99. Lillo Fort, 101. Limburg in Belgium, 159. Limburg on the Lahn, 448. jLinnseus's residence in Holland, 40. Linz on the Rhine, 240. Lippstadt, 329. Lobau, 370. Loevestein, Grotius's prison, 73. Lohnbedienter, 186. Lohnkutscher, 191. London to Rotterdam, 20. to Ostend, 105. to -Antwerp, 99. to Hamburg, 292. Loo, the, 69. Lorch, 255. Lorsch, 473. LouvAi.s, 170. Magnificent Hotel de Ville, 170. Cathedral, 170. University, 171. Jansen, 171. to Maestricbt and Aix la CbapeUe, 172. i^— to Liege, 171. • to Brussels, 169. Lowenberg, .'j74. Lubec, 297, 299. Ludwigslust, .302. to Schwenn and Dobberan, 302. Lurleiburg, 253. Luther at Eisleben, 327. Magdeburg, 335. Erfurth, 350. Wittenburg, .523. Capture of, 422. At Coburg, 423. His beech tree, 422. Worms, 450. Wartburg, 383. Lutter, 332. Luttich, 161. Lutzen, 387. The Swede's Stone, 387. Cam- paign of 181.-3, 38a LiJtzerath, 272. L uzemburg, 175. • to Namur, 174. Maars, or crater lakes of the Eifel, 288. 290. Maas, 20. Maestricht, 173. Citadel and caves of the Petersberg, 173. to Aix la Chapelle, 173. • to Brussels, 172. Magdebi-rc, 334, 33.5. Fortifications, 334. Cathedral, 335. Gardens, 335. Luther at, 335. Macdebcrc* to Berlin, 336. to Hanover and Cologne, 330. * to Nordhausen and the Hartz, 354. * to Brunswick and Paderborn, 337. Magdesprung, 354. Mai.sz, 264. Malines, 140. Cathedra], paintings, 140. Church of Notre Dame, 141. Lace, 141. Malmedy, 289. Manxheim, 460. Iti history, 460. Has few objects to detain tra\el'ers, 460. Palace gardens, theatre club, 460, 461. to Heidelberg and Schwetzingen, 465. to Spires, 461. ; and Strasburg, 461. to Deux Ponts, by Landau, 465. Marburg, 339. Church of St. Elizabeth, 359. Marceau, monument of, 244. Marche en Faraenne, 174. Maricnburg on the Vistula, 363. Marienbui-g on the Moselle, 281. Marken, Isle of, 62. Marksburg, 250. Marvel, Andrew, verses on Holland, 7. Maven, 271. >U'yexce, 264. 268. Cathedral, 265. Public gardens, 266. Tower of Drusus, theatre, 266. Museum, 266. Printing inventeii here, 267. Gutemberg's statue, 267. * to Coblenz and down the Rhine, 264. * to Bingen bv Ingelheim, 452. to Frankfort,'4';3. to Manheim and Heidelberg, 457. — 465. to Metz, 456. by the Rhine to Worms, Mannheim, Spires, and Strasburg, 414. Mechlin, 141. Meerfelder Maar, 290. Mederablik, 61. Jleiningen, 423. Meissen. — Cathedral, china manufactory, 391. Melibocus, 470. Memel, 366. Mendig quarries, 27 1 . Menin, 97. Meppel, 67. Metternich, birth-place of Prince, 246. Cas- tles, 282. Metz to Mayence, 414. Meuse, the river, from Namur to Liege, 160. from Namur to Dinant and Givet, 175. Middelburg, 101. Minden, 329. Battle of, 330. Moerdyk, ll)4. Money, best mode of taking abroad, xvr. Tables of Foreign, with the English value. Xt. XLV. Monnikendam, 61. Mo.vs, 178. * to Brussels, 178. Montabauer, 448. Montjoie, 286. Montjardin, 167. Montroyal, 2SI. Moritzb'urg in Saxony, 324. Moselle river, junction with the Rhine, 245. Ice on the, 245. Descent of, '■SIS. 285. Wines, 28<). Public barges on the, 278. Moselkem, 284. Moselweiss, 285. .Mouse Tower, 258. z 2 508 INDEX. Miihlheim on tlie Ruhr, SSo., Muhlhausen, 424. Muklen, a"). Munster, 336. Anatiaptists, 336. to O.-iiiabriick anil Bremen, 236. Munster May field, 272. Miincheberg, 420. Miinden, 34">. Muskau, .'-S*). Murg, valley of the, 4P0. Naarden, 65. Nachod, 379. Ka/ie, river — Mouth of, 259. Excursion up the, 454. Namur. l.TO. Cathedral, 159. Church of St. Loup, 159. Citadel, 159. Cutlery, 159. to Dinant and Givet, 175. to I-iege, luo. to Luxemburg and Treves, 174. N.^ssAU — Coins, posting, 427. Cnstle of, 431. Baths and Brunnen, 429—442. Naumburg, 387. Keckar. source of, 496. at Heidelberg, 478. Nenndorf, 330. Xeufahrwasser, 363. Neumagcn, 280. Keustadt Eberswald, 356. Neustadt an der Haardt, 466. Neuss, 215. Neuwied. 242. St. Nicholas. 124. Niederseltcrs, 435. Nicdcrwald, the, 260. Nierstein vineyard, 457. Nicuport, 98. Nieuwe Diep, 59. Nivellcs, 158. Nonnenwerth, 2-39. Kord/iausen, 327 to Halle, 327. to Magdeburg and the Hartz,354. Nordlieim, 318. Noyon, 182. Ny.meoex, 64. Arrival at, 75. Inns at, 64. * to Amsterdam, 64. * to Rotterdam, 75. to Cologne, by the Rhine, 212. by land, 212. Oberlahnstein, 250. Oberlin, 495. Oberstein, 455. Oberwesel, 253. Odcnwald. excursion in the, 470 — 47 5. Oedcran, 41i>. Oflenbach, 417. Oflenburg, 4H2— 495. to Schaflhauscn, by the vale of the Kin- zig anondon, xix. French, xx. Prussian, xx. 207. Austrian, x\. Belgian, 77. Dutch, 1. English and Foreign Consuls', xxi. English Secretary of State's, XX. Paulinzelle, 425. Pays de Wacs, 123. Perck — Tenicrs" house, 141. Pcrleberg, 302. Peronnc, 180. Petersberg near Maestricht, caves of, 173. Pfahlgraben, 441. Pfalz, 254. Pfauen-Insel near Potzdam, 319. Phillipsburg, 4G4. Pillnitz, 411. Pirniascns, 467. Pirna, 416. Pisport, 2S0. Platte, the, 442. Plauen, 420. Plauensche Grund, 417. Polders, 12. In North Holland, 60. 99. Poniatowsky's death, 390. Poppelsdorf, 235. Porta Westphalica, 329. Posting — In France and Belgium, 78. ; in Germany, 188. ; in Prussia, 210. ; in Sax- ony, 381. ; Nassau, Hesse, &c., 428. Potzdam, 320— 322. Tomb of Frederick the Great, 320. Palace. .320. Sans Souri, .321. New palace, 322. Russian colony, 322. * to Magdeburg, 336. to Dresden, 324. * to Berlin, 3(4. Prebisch Thor, 414. Priim, 286. to Geroldstein and Spa, 289. Prussia — Passpc-ts, xx. 207. New custom- house system, 187 — 207. Money of, 208. Travelling in, 209. Posting in, 210. Inns, 211. King of, 305. Puffendorf 's birth-place, 419. Purmcronde, 61. Ptitbus Baths, .359. PvRMONT, watering place, 313. Mineral springs, 343. Gas Grotto, 343. to Hanovir, 344. * to Frankfort, .338. 343. * to Cologne, 328. Quatre Bras, 1;>S. Quedlinburg, 354. St. Quentin, 181. Canal of, 181. Rafts on the Rhine, 231. RAir.ROAns on the Continent: Belgian, 81. Ili6. l.» 142. Mechlin to Liege and Aix-la-Chanelle. 171. Aix-la-Chapelleto Cologne, 222. Mayence to Frankfort, 267. 453. Leipsig to Dresden, 390. Rammclsherg mines, 349. Rasladl, Palace, 481. Congress of, 481. Rehme, 325). Reichenbarh, 420. Reinerz. 378. Rcmagen,24fl. Reynolds, Sir J., description of the Dutch School, 16. 5C9 Reynolds, Sir J. School of Rubens, 85. — ^pictures at the Hague, S6. at Amsterdam, 46. at Antwerp, 126. 136. at Cologne, 224. Rheenen,64. Rheinfels, 251. Rheingau, 26t Rheingrafenstein, 454- Rheineck, 2*). Rheinsberg, 302. Rheinstein, castle of New, 256. Rhense, 250. The Rhine, mouth of, at Katnyk, 36. (.-v.) in Holland, 71 — 76. ascent of not recommended, 71. Waal branch, Rotterdam to Nymegen, 72. Lek branch, Rotterdam to Arnheim, 75. ;B.) from Nymegen to Cologne, 212. 216. (C.) Cologne to Coblenz, 229. Byron's description of, 229. a German account of, 230. Rafts on the, 231. Scenery of, 2i33. best mode of seeing, 233. (D.) Coblenz to Mayence, 249. scenery near Bingeii, 259. castles, 256. — Wines and vineyards, 256 — 263. (E. from Mayence to Strasburg, 457. 464. scenery dull, 4.T7. gold washed from its sands, 464. Richard Cceur de Lion's prison, 467. RiESENGEBiRGE, 372 — 377. General account of the, 372. Sketch of a tour in, 373. Rode, origin of the termination, 352. Rodenstein Castle, 472. Roderburg, 23a Rogers, Sam., on Travel, x. RoUndsecK, 239. Rossla, 327. Rosttrappe, 353. Rostock, 3(X). ROTTERDA.M, 21 — 23. to Hague and .\msterdam, 24. to Gouach, death of Turenne, 481. Saventhem, Van Dvk's adventure at, 169. Saxon Switzerl/ind,' ¥)9. 416. S.\xo.vY,3S(.'. 406. Money, 381. Posting, 3S1. Sayn valley, and iron works of, 243. Schaflf'hausen * to Frevburg, 500. Schaffhausen * to Strasburg, 497. Schandau. 414. to Dresden, 415. Schaueiiberg Lippe, 330. Scheldt, 919. Source of, 181. Scheveningen, 31. Schiedam, 21. Schlangcnbad, 435^ „ Schmalkald. 422. Schmiedeberg, 376. .Schneeberg, 421. Schneekoppe, 375. Schnellpost5, 190. Schoenberg, or Schomberg, 253. Schcenecken, 263. ■■ Schcenbomlust, 244. Schoonhoven, 75. Sohrseck, 421. Schwalbach, 432. Springs, 434. Excur- sions, 435. Schwarzburg Castle, 425. Schwedt, iio6. Schweidnitz, 377. Schwein General, the, 433. Schwelm, 325. Schwetzingen, 465. Seesen, 332. Selters, 435. Seltzer water, 435. Seraigne, 161. Seven Mountains, 237. St. Gravenhage, 25. Siebengebirge, 220. Sieg river, 234. Si^urg, 290. Silberberg, 37a Silesia, 368. 371. 37a Singen, 497. Sinzig, 240. Skeleton tours, x-ax. xxxiv. Sobernheim, 455. Soden, 410. Soder, 302. Soest, 329. Soignies, Forest of, 151. Solingen, 330. .Sombreffe, 159. Sonnenberg, — its singular manufactures, 425. Spa, 165. Mineral springs, 165, 166. Re- doute, 166 Caves near, 168. . ^— • to Litge, 165. — to Verviers, 168. to Malmedy and the Eifel, S8&' Spandau, 303. Speyk, Van, 102. Speyer, 46L Spibes, 461 — 464. Its eventful history, 461. Atrocities of the French, 46L Cathedral, 463. Antiquities, 463. Alt portal, Rets- cher, 463. to Strasburg, 421. 445. • to Mayence, 418. Starkenburg, 281. Steamboats, List of, xxvi. London to Rotterdam, 20. Calais, 89. z 3 510 INDEX. Steamboat, London to Antwerp, 99. Ostend, 105. Hamburg, '292. —— Ilotterdani to Nyraegen, up the Rhine, 71. Amsterdam to Hamburg, 51. Cologne to Coblenz and Mayence, 235. Lubec to St. Petersburg, 2^.9. Mavence to Mannheim and Strasburg, 457. Steen, Rubens's chateau, 141. Steenkerk, 178. Steig, 4!i9. Steinberg vineyard and wine, 263. Sterne's Advice to Travellers, xii. Stettin, .557. to Swinemunde and Riigen, 357, 358. to Berlin, 356. Stolberg, 354. Stolzenfels, 250. Storks in Holland, 20, Stralsund, 358. Strasburg, 492. Monument to Dessaix, 492. The Rhine at, 491. Minster, 492. Spire, 492. INIarshall Saxe's monument, 493. Museum and library, invention of printing, 494. Arsenal, Palais du Roi, the Jews, 494. Pates de foits gras, 494. Ruprechtsau, 495. to Paris in 36 hours, 495. to the Ban de la Roche, 495. * to Mayence, 464. to Schatf hausen and Constance by Do- naueschingcn, 495 * to Baden, 492. * to Frankfort, by Carlsruhe and Hei- delberg, 492. 482. to London in 5 days by steam, 464. Striegau, 343. Stubbenkammer, 360. Stuhlingen, 450. Suhl, 424. __ Swinemunde, baths, ooi. ^— to Riigen, 358. Tables d'h6te in Germany, 185. Taunus mountains, 449. Telgte, 337. Tergow, 70. Terneusen, 101. Tervueren, 169. Tete de Flandrcs, 124. Texel, 60. Tharand, 417. Thtiringian Forest, routes in, 421. ili, 425. Hunting in, 424. Thurniberg, 251. Tilly's birthplace, 158. Atrocities at Mag- deburg, 334. Tilsit, 366. Tirlemont, 171. Titles, German, 195. Tollhuis, 76. Tongres, 172. Mont Tonnerre, 456. Tours, sketches of, xxx. xxxvl. Toumay, 9'.i. Trarbach, 280. Trass, 241. Trautenau, 377. Travetnunde, 299. Travelling, maxims and hints for, IX. requisites for, xxv. Treis, 283. Triesam, 499. Trekschuitcn — in Holland, 4. Treckschuit from Bruges to Ghent, 113. Treuenbrietzen, Jij. Trlves, 273. Hi.. Weinheim, 473. Weiss on the Mosel, 28;5. Weissenfels, 387. Weissenthurm, 243. 511 Wor., ;i.P. W erther, scene of his • Sorrows," 447. Wesel, 213. Westr river, J4'2. Westphalia, S'la. Wetzlar, 447. " Sorrows of Werther," 'US. WJESBVUEN, 45y. Inns and baths, 4;j9. Kur Saal, 44<). Kochbrunnen, 440. Tem- perature of the springs. 441. Roman re- mains, 441. Pfahlgraben — a wM ex- lending from the iihino to the Danube, 441. Museum, Theatre, Platte, 442. Bi- berich, 442. — • to Coblenz, 4:3C>. to Frankfort, 44o. to Eppstein, Falkenstein, and the Tau- nus, 449. Wiesloch, 479. U'H/ic'lms/io/ie, palace and garden, *41. Willcmsoord. '>9. Wimbern, 298. Wines and vineyards of the Rhine, 238. Wiiikel. 263. Winterberg, 414. Wismar, 299. De Witt's death, 20 Jl'iUenberg, 323. Witzenhausen, 298. Woerden, 70. 1 Wolfenbuttel, 334. I Worms, 458. Present state and formei I greatness ; seat of imperial Diets, 4j9 Cathedral, 439. I to Krentznach, by Alzey, 459. I WUpper, valley of the, 325. I Wyk by Duurstede, "S. Xanten, 215. [ Ypres, 96. I Zanndam, 55. ! Ziihringen, 482. I Zand, dc, 59. Zealand, 99. Zeist, 64. 1 Zella, 300. -' I Zeltingen, 280. I Zwanziger, coin, 428. ' Zweibriicken (Deux Fonts), 467. ; Zwickau, 419. Zwolle, 6rj. THE END. London: Printed by A. Spottiswoode, Kew-Strect-Square. "i [ ^j*"^**™^ ";^^'^Ai^ to.. '""stesV jS.><^>i^ ~r ,«^u'S"~"" ^"-'■'^'^^•r "4,iJ4 '""^ (rG.S Mr"' ''W^gi'^r'*^ ■jr »" r^,„U,^!S ^ ) VOLS. I A a -^^ f? ^rdfdrJrdfdrdrdrdrdfdfdpJrdrdpdpJrdrdrdrdpJriJr:;lrdpLJrdrJrdrJdrdrdpJrJfd .-)| H n n n Q n n n n n n a CLASSICAL LITERATURE AND SCHOOL BOOKS, PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY, 50, ALBEMARLE STREET. Contents. ARISTOPHANES— Edited by Mitcheli- .... Translated by AIitcheli, . . . . . ESSAYS 0>'— By ScvERN .... B(ECKH'S PUBLIC ECONOMY OF ATUEXS - - - BUTTMAN'S LEXILOGUS --..-. IRREGULAR GREEK VERBS CARD>\T:LL (Dr.) on COINS ..... CLASSICAL DICTIOX^VRY (A New) .... COLERIDGE'S INTRODUCTION TO TIIE GREEK POETS - HASE'S GRECIAN ANTIQUITIES .... LEAKES TOPOGRAPHY OF ATHENS .... JIATTIII.es GREEK GRAMMAR .... SHORTER GREEK GRAMMAR FOR SCHOOLS MITCHELLS ARISTOPHANES ..... MULLER'S DORIANS ....... OXENHAM'S (Rev. Wm.) EXERCISES IN LATIN ELEGIACS - POWELL'S SIMPLIFIED LATIN GRAM.MAR PASHLEY'S TRJiVELS IN CRETE .... KIDDLES NEW LATIN-ENGLISH DICTIONARY - YOUNG SCHOLAR'S LATIN DICTIONARY - SCHILLER'S LATIN GRA.M.MAR ..... WILKINSON'S EGYPTIANS - - - - ; - AVORDSWORTII'S (Rev. C.) ATHENS AND ATTICA - POMPEIAN INSCRIPTIONS - — (Rev. Charles) NEW GREEK GRAMMAR - ftfgrEJ|EJiiJ?^r^frJpJrdpJr=Jrdf=JfET^pUpJi^Jfdf^r:JpJrdpJrJr=If^f^ i By AUGUSTUS MATTHIyE. | g7=]T=IF=]l=]r= 3?=] ;grrJrdf^rE]TE3f3?E]T=Ii=]rdfdrdrdrdriJrdrdfdrd7^^ A GRAMMAR OF THE GREEK LANGUAGE. ^ D] TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN BY E. V. BLOMFIELD, M.A. Hll Fifth Edition. ^ Thoroughly revised, and greatly enlai-ged from the last Edition of the Original. ([!) Tl By JOHN KENRICK, M.A. '"' 2 volumes 8vo. 30*. The Fifth Edition of Matthia;'s Greek Grammar exhibits by far the most eomplctc system of grammatical rules and examples that have yet been given to the world, embodying the latest residts of those subtle investigations of Greek, and especially of Attic construction, which characterise the scholarship of the present age. A SHORTER GREEK GRAMMAR, dTov tJ)c U^e of ^£i)col5. ABRIDGED FROM THE GRAMMAR OF MATTHI.E. By C. J. BLOMFIELD, D.D., LORD BISHOP OF LONDON. Sixth Edition, revised and corrected, By the Rev. J. EDWARDS, M.A., Second Master, King's College School, London. 12mo. 3s, bound. H *t* For the convenience of the Lower Greek Classes, the ACCIDENCE is sold HI separately, 12mo,2j. boxmd. " The Editor has principally studied the convenience of the lower classes in schools, inserting nothing in the shape of discussion ; nor attempting to give any explanation which might seem to be beyond the comprehension of boys. He has endeavoured to substitute shorter and more simple definitions and explanations than Tl those which are contained in the original work. The division which treats of tho ii Syntax is reduced to a very compendious form." — Bishop of London's Preface. q| a SIMPLIFIED LATIN GRAMMAR, CiululJing drytvci^ts anU 2pocabuIanf£{. Hi By the Reverend WALTER P. POWELL, M.A., D.C.L., HI Head Master of the Free Grammar School of Uuccn Mary at Clitheroe. T|| 12mo, 3s. M. bound. iH " A wcU-nigh general wisli has been expressed for an Introduction to tho Latin HI tongue more simple in its arrangement, and less cumbrous in its rules, than those ~ hitherto employed. The object which I have endeavoured to keep steadily in view, while preparing the following pages, has been to render as simple as possible the acquisition of the rudhnents of Latin, and not to introduce any needless peculiarity. ■QJ In this Grammar scarcely any thing will appear strange to a boy who has previously TJl learned the Eton ; and I am much deceived if that Grammar will not be found con- y siderably easier, and more intelligible, to those who may have been made acquainted y with this, than it has often proved to be in the ease of others." — Author's Preface. ^ 2 7^?=lr=]:E]F=If=] fdfdrdrdr=37E]?E]pJpdr^f^rdr^fdrdrdrdpJfdpJfdrdfdrdfdr=J73 BUTTMAN'S LEXILOGUS ; |^ (©r, 51 Critical (!Bv«intiuattoii OF THE MEANING AND ETYMOLOGY OF VAUIOIS GREEK WORDS AND I'ASSAGES IN IIOMEK, UESIOD, AND OTHER GREEK WRITERS. TRANSLATE!) FROM THE GERMAN OF THE LATE PHILIP BUTTMAN ; And Edited, with Notes and copious Indices, Bv THE Reverend J. R. FISHLAKE, A.M., Late Fellow of Wadham College, Oxford. 8vo, 18». " While every reader of Ilomer— nay, every Student of Greek — will find in the philological investigations of the Lexilogus new and valuable information, without which he can never understand tlie language, either in its Epic infancy or Attic vigour ; — it will, at the same time, prove to the really critical student an invaluable guide and companion in exploring the deeply hidden treasures of ancient Greek literature. He will be delighted and astonished at the profound research, the exten- sive erudition, and solid judgment, with which each word, and family of words, is traced from the old Epic poetry through every succeeding stage in the language, through every writer in which it occurs, and every analogy in which it can be advantageously compared. He will find a novel system of investigation, admirably calculated to ascertain on the general ground the true sense of an author, recon- ciling discrepancies, and solving difficulties which have baffled the ingenuity of ancients and modems." BUTTMAN\S CATALOGUE OF THE IRREGULAR GREEK VERBS; Mttl; alt t!je Cnt^rsi tijat arc (Qytant : THEIR FORMATION, MEANING, AND USAGE. ACCOMPANIED BY A COMPLETE INDEX. 0] TRANSLATED FROM BUTTMANS AUSFrnRLICnE SPRACHLEHRE. ^ By THE Rev. J. R. FISHLAKE. n n n n n n n n n Q n n n n n Q TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN, AAnTII ALTERATIONS, NOTES, H AND ADDITIONS, 8^-0, 9*. 6