THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 
 
THE JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 
 
 i* 
 
 LONDON, 1794-1797 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 S. BAYARD DOD 
 
 NEW-YORK 
 
 DODD, MEAD & COMPANY 
 1894 
 
era 7-5 
 
 13 38/9 JJ 
 
 Copyright, 1894, by 
 DODD, MEAD & COMPANY. 
 
 PRESSWOKK BY JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. 
 
is a <0pg of tfje JFtrst lEtJtttott of tfje 
 Journal of JHartija pintarU ISagarU. 
 
 : 
 
PREFACE 
 
 MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD, the writer ot' tffis 
 journal, was the daughter of Lewis Pintard, 
 of New York, whose father, a French Hugue- 
 not, emigrated from France some years pre- 
 vious to the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 
 
 General Washington, in a letter to Lieuten- 
 ant-General Howe, the British Commander-in- 
 Chief, says : 
 
 * ' HEADQUARTERS, MORRISTOWN, 
 "Jan. 20, 1777. 
 
 "Sir: I take the liberty to propose the es- 
 tablishment of an officer to reside in New 
 York, under parole, to transmit no intelligence 
 but what belongs to his office, whose busi- 
 ness it shall be to provide such necessaries for 
 such prisoners as fall into your hands. Per- 
 haps the establishment of such an officer with 
 proper credit may put a stop to the many 
 complaints which I am daily under the neces- 
 sity of hearing, some of them probably without 
 foundation and others from the want of many 
 
 1* 5 
 
PREFACE 
 
 things you are not obliged to furnish the 
 prisoners. 
 
 ' ' The gentleman whom I would beg leave to 
 recommend as a proper agent is Mr. Lewis 
 Fintard, the bearer, a person well known in 
 New Yoi'k and of long established reputation 
 4s a considerable merchant." 
 
 Mrs. Bayard was the wife of Samuel Bayard, 
 and he too was of Huguenot descent. He 
 was the son of Colonel John Bayard, who was 
 prominent in Pennsylvania during the Revolu- 
 tionary War. The Pennsylvania Legislature 
 in 1775-76 were not in favour of indepen- 
 dence, but the people were resolved upon it. 
 
 "On the twenty-fourth of May, a town- 
 meeting of more than four thousand men was 
 held in the State-House yard, to confront the 
 instruction of the assembly against indepen- 
 dence, with the vote of the Continental Con- 
 gress, against * oaths of allegiance, and the 
 exercise of any kind of authority under 
 the Crown. ' It was called to order by John 
 Bayard, chairman of the inspection committee 
 for the county of Philadelphia ; a patriot of 
 singular purity of character and disinterested- 
 ness, personally brave, pensive, earnest and 
 devout"! 
 
 1 Bancroft, Vol. Ill, p. 385. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 When military preparation became neces- 
 sary, a battalion of cavalry was organized, and 
 John Bayard was commissioned as its colonel, 
 and held the command during the war. 
 
 His son, Samuel Bayard, was born in Phila- 
 delphia in 1767, graduated at Princeton Col- 
 lege in 1784, and studied law with William 
 Bradford, afterward Attorney-General of the 
 "United States under Washington. 
 
 After the ratification of the treaty nego- 
 tiated by John Jay with the British Govern- 
 ment, he was appointed by Washington agent 
 of the United States to prosecute, in the 
 British Admiralty courts, the claims of Amer- 
 ican citizens, as provided for in the Jay treaty. 
 
 The result of his mission was so successful 
 that the sum of " 10,345,000 was recovered 
 from the British Government for losses sus- 
 tained by Americans from illegal and un- 
 authorized captures of their ships on the high 
 seas by English cruisers." 
 
 At the time of his appointment to this 
 responsible and delicate mission, Mr. Bayard 
 
8 PREFACE 
 
 was twenty-seven years of age ; his wife was 
 two years his junior ; they had been married 
 four years, and were sent on this mission to 
 those whom from her childhood "she had 
 been taught to regard as enemies." 
 
 "To have known Washington, Franklin, 
 Hamilton, Jay, and John Adams, and frequently 
 to have seen George the Third and his cabinet 
 ministers, who were opposed to those great 
 men in the Revolutionary struggle ; to have 
 been well acquainted with many of the Amer- 
 ican generals engaged in that conflict, and 
 with their antagonists Lord Cornwallis, Sir 
 Henry Clinton, and Col. Tarleton: to have 
 been on terms of intimacy with six of the 
 signers of the Declaration of Independence ; 
 and to have known Lords Eldon, Mansfield 
 and Stowell, Burke and Barre, Fox and Pitt, 
 Sheridan, Wilberforce and Warren Hastings, is 
 certainly a very remarkable record for a young 
 American of thirty." l 
 
 On his return to this country, Mr. Bayard 
 resided for a few years in New York, and was 
 appointed by Governor Jay presiding judge of 
 the Court of Common Pleas of Westchester 
 County. 
 
 1 General James Grant Wilson, " The Bayards in 
 America and Judge Bayard's London Diary." 
 
PREFACE 9 
 
 On his removal to New Jersey in 1806, he 
 was appointed to the same position in Somer- 
 set County. 
 
 He was one of the founders of the New 
 York Historical Society, and with his kinsman, 
 Elias Boudinot, one of the founders of the 
 American Bible Society, and its first vice- 
 president. 
 
 He was also one of the founders of the 
 Theological Seminary at Princeton, and a trus- 
 tee of the College of New Jersey, and for many 
 years a delegate to the General Assembly of 
 the Presbyterian Church. 
 
 He was a constant contributor to several 
 religious periodicals, and the author of the 
 following books: 
 
 "A Funeral Oration on General Washing- 
 ton," New Brunswick, 1810; "Digest of 
 American Cases on the Law of Evidence," 
 Philadelphia, 1810; " Abstract of Laws of the 
 United States which relate to the Duties and 
 Authority of Judges of Inferior State Courts 
 and Justices of the Peace," New York, 1834; 
 
IO PREFACE 
 
 " Letters on the Sacrament of the Lord's Sup- 
 per," Philadelphia, 1825; second edition, 1840. 
 
 The first entry in the old vellum-bound 
 book in which Mrs. Bayard wrote her journal 
 is dated 1794, and it is interesting to note the 
 touches of life and manners as seen by a young 
 American woman a century ago. 
 
 Among the descendants of the twin brother 
 of Judge Bayard's father four have occupied 
 seats in the United States Senate almost con- 
 tinuously for fourscore years, one was among 
 the signers of the treaty of Ghent, another was 
 Secretary of State and is now Ambassador of 
 the United States at the Court of Saint James. 
 
THE JOURNAL OF 
 MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 
 
 November 9, 1794. 
 
 jEVER did my heart experi- 
 ence such emotions of pain- 
 
 ful regret as on this day; 
 
 when torn from the friends I loved 
 with so much fondness, and the 
 Country which gave me birth, how 
 could my mind find any relief even 
 in the anticipation of a return. More 
 than a year may elapse before this 
 happy period, and Alas ! then perhaps 
 
12 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 I may return, but not to the embraces 
 of those so dear to me now, the cruel 
 hand of death may long 'ere that de- 
 prive me of an aged and affectionate 
 Parent, and instead of the warm em- 
 braces of my beloved Aunts, or the 
 tender heart-felt welcome of my equal- 
 ly loved Cousin, 1 shall be met with 
 the cool reception of an acquaintance, 
 who has nought but tales of sorrow 
 to relate. But why, oh my heart! 
 dost thou so distrust the goodness 
 of that Providence, who has in so 
 many instances disapointed thy fears ; 
 are not the lives of those who are dear 
 to me as well as my own in thine all- 
 wise hands, and can'st thou not do 
 with us as seemeth to thee fit. 
 
 Peace, every angry passion then, 
 Let each rebellious sigh 
 Be silent at his sovereign will, 
 And every murmur die. 
 
MARTHA P1NTARD BAYARD 13 
 
 At twelve o'clock on Sunday we left 
 Princeton^ accompanied by my good 
 Father, Brother Andrew, and Sally, 
 Cousin Lewis Pintard, and John Smith. 
 We dined together at Chester and 
 strove to be cheerful, but could not; 
 my D r Papa's exertions were very 
 great, and I behaved very well till 
 Lewis Pintard, who I believe loves 
 me like a Sister, burst into tears and 
 left the table; this was too much, I 
 was obliged to rise and go up stairs. 
 We embarked on board the Adriana, 
 at four in the afternoon ; our friends 
 followed us to the beach and took 
 their leave. Never did I experience 
 such feelings as on looking at that 
 Shore where I had left all that was 
 dear to me on earth but my Husband 
 and Child; I stayed on deck till I 
 could see them no more, and then 
 went down into the Cabin and gave 
 a free vent to my tears ; this, with the 
 
14 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 affectionate exertions of my Dear Mr. 
 Bayard, gave me some relief; I began 
 to feel reconciled to my fate, and a 
 firm reliance on Providence. Oh may 
 the feelings which this scene has ex- 
 cited be nourished and encreased, and 
 may the spirit of devotion which now 
 fills my breast be ever kept alive by 
 constant & serious reflection on a 
 scene so peculiarly adapted to im- 
 press the mind with inexpressible 
 solemnity. . . . 
 
 We found the Cabin clean, the 
 passengers cheerful, and the Captain 
 disposed to render every thing agree- 
 able ; the first night I slept very well, 
 and rose in the morning with rather 
 better spirits than I had in the even- 
 ing; our breakfast was good, but my 
 appetite had left me entirely. . . . 
 
 Monday morning. This day we had 
 a charming little breeze, which wafted 
 us on our way in a rapid but steady 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 15 
 
 course; and by the evening I felt a 
 degree of composure I was before a 
 stranger to, and, while land was in 
 sight, I had no fears, but was anxious 
 to see the sea ; in the evening the wind 
 arose and blew very hard all night, I 
 slept very little and was very much 
 frighten'd. . . . 
 
 Tuesday. How thankful ought we 
 to be to that merciful Providence who 
 saith to the sea " thus far shalt thou go 
 but no further ; "after the stormy dread- 
 ful night we have passed, how reviv- 
 ing is the light of another day. A day 
 which promises so much for us ... 
 it is very clear and we are going with 
 a pretty breeze, but this evening the 
 Pilot is to leave us ... six o'clock ; 
 he has taken his leave and we can but 
 just now discover the light-house. I 
 could not refrain from tears at the 
 last glance of that land which gave 
 me birth, and oh how different shall 
 
1 6 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 I feel when I am three thousand miles 
 further ! Alas I know not whether I 
 shall ever reach it. ... 
 
 We passed the evening more cheer- 
 fully than I expected, and in the morn- 
 ing found ourselves surrounded by 
 an immense ocean. What a new 
 scene opened to my view! How did 
 it fill my mind with the most awful 
 and sublime reverence to the Great 
 Creator of all things. Who could, in 
 contemplating the wonders of the 
 great deep, doubt for a moment the 
 existence of a Deity ! 
 
 Thursday 19. A very stormy day ; I 
 began to know what sea-sickness was ; 
 in the evening the wind increased, and 
 blew a violent gale all night. I was 
 very much alarmed and began to re- 
 pent not leaving Lewis with his Grand 
 Papa, who, in case of my death, 
 would have been a consolation; this 
 night I really thought would have 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 1 7 
 
 been my last; I would sometimes 
 catch a moment's sleep and awaken 
 in a most violent fright, call on Mr. 
 Bayard, my head aching extremely; I 
 begg'd for a little camphorated spirits. 
 He crept almost on his hands and 
 knees to get it, bath'd my face, and, 
 with the most tender solicitude, hung 
 over my bed. "Resign yourself to 
 Providence, my love," said he, "and 
 all will yet be well." This was my 
 only consolation and from my heart 
 did I bless those friends who early 
 taught me that love and submission 
 I then felt. A flood of tears shed on 
 the bosom of the Husband, for whom 
 I could so freely die, relieved me, and, 
 about four in the morning, the Cap- 
 tain came to my window and assured 
 me the storm was abating. I was 
 then a little composed and so much 
 overcome that I fell asleep and sweetly 
 lost all sense of my danger for an 
 
1 8 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 hour or two; and oh my soul what 
 were thy feelings on awaking to 
 the light of another day! Merciful 
 Father, said I, when doth gratitude 
 glow with equal strength or praise as- 
 cend to thy throne with higher pleasure 
 than in the moment of unexpected 
 deliverance ? Oh may I never, never 
 forget this night. 
 
 Sunday morning. This is the most 
 delightful day we have yet had a 
 fair, light breeze has kept the vessel 
 steady, and we all had a refreshing 
 night's rest ... for the first time I 
 had a pretty good appetite at break- 
 fast, & sat on deck the greater part of 
 the day. Mr. Bayard read Fordice's 
 Address to the Deity. I never enjoyed 
 them so much but we were soon 
 obliged to lay them one side, as they 
 all said reading prayers (as they 
 call'd them) would certainly bring 
 a bad wind; poor superstitious crea- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 19 
 
 tures! We gratified them, but could 
 not be denied the enjoyment of our 
 own reflections. . . . 
 
 Thursday. All day unpleasant I 
 was very much indisposed could not 
 hold my head up ten minutes to- 
 gether, lay on the sopha all day. 
 
 Towards evening the storm in- 
 creased, and at tea time it blew vio- 
 lently the Captain had to leave the 
 tea-table; it increased till ten, and 
 then blew a perfect hurricane, we 
 were all very much alarmed, Mrs. 
 Kirtland went to her berth, and good 
 Mrs. Edmonson did all in her power 
 to keep up my spirits, by telling me 
 that was nothing to weather she had 
 seen, but all would not do; this I 
 saw, she disguised her feelings, as 
 well as Mr. Bayard. I was very 
 much overcome by my fears, and had 
 it not been for some lavender which 
 I took, and the use of camphorated 
 
2O THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 spirits, I must have fainted. At 
 twelve, through the kindness of Provi- 
 dence, the wind abated, and we all 
 went to bed, but could not sleep for 
 the amazing motion of the vessel. 
 The wind continued high all night, 
 and, in the morning, 1 was told we 
 had indeed been in great danger; the 
 Caboose was thrown over, and the 
 poor cook very much hurt, the dead- 
 lights were up for all the next day, 
 and the live-stock almost gone; the 
 wind continued high several days, 
 Mrs. Bowen & myself almost dead. 
 Saturday. Still rough and disagree- 
 able but the Captain says we shall 
 soon be in sight of land, this news 
 composed and satisfied me and 1 was 
 anticipating the pleasure I should feel 
 on being again on shore, when a very 
 high sea came and rushed, in a most 
 violent torrent, down the stair-case, 
 and set every thing a-float; 1 was 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 21 
 
 ignorant of the cause, & was more 
 frightened than I had ever been be- 
 fore, my hands and feet were per- 
 fectly benumb'd, and it was some 
 time before I recovered. My D r little 
 Lewis 1 who was never sick or fright- 
 ened, said, " never mind Mama, God 
 won't let you die." Dear fellow, he is 
 the diversion for the whole Cabin. 
 After this fright I thought I could go 
 through anything, but we had no 
 more. Mr. Elmore assured us we 
 were close on land ; we went to bed 
 in high spirits, hoping to eat dinner 
 in Falmouth the next day. 
 
 Wednesday we all spent a pretty 
 
 iRev. Lewis Pintard Bayard, D. D., Rector of 
 Trinity Church, Newark, N. J., 1813-1820, and 
 Rector of Saint Clement's Church, New York 
 City, 1830-1840. 
 
 The great desire of his life, to visit the scenes 
 hallowed by the Saviour's presence, had been ful- 
 filled, and on his return from Jerusalem, he was 
 stricken with fever and died at Malta, and was 
 buried there in 1840. 
 
22 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 anxious night. Mr. Elmore and the 
 Captain were up the greater part of 
 the night, and we were much afraid 
 of striking some rocks. After being 
 on the watch for many hours I fell 
 in a sound sleep, and was wakened 
 by the joyful sound of " Land, Land ! " 
 Never was I fill'd with so much joy 
 and gratitude, or never was a sound 
 more welcome to my ears than that; 
 we congratulated each other from 
 our berths, and all began to dress; 
 we assembled upon deck and felt too 
 much overjoyed to eat breakfast, but, 
 on hearing that there was no prospect 
 of getting on shore that day, our joy 
 was a little checked, and we returned 
 to our dry biscuit, mortified and cha- 
 grin'd; we were in high spirits all 
 day at the prospect of getting on 
 shore in the morning. I felt too much 
 to be as lively as the rest. We re- 
 tired early & had a pretty good night's 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 23 
 
 rest. . . . At about nine in the morn- 
 ing, just after breakfast, a little breeze 
 sprung up and we soon were in sight 
 of Falmouth at eleven we saw a 
 boat coming off to us. This proved 
 to be the American Consul's, who 
 always sends out as the vessels come 
 up ; it was a very rainy day, and no 
 prospect of the ship's getting up. 
 The gentlemen persuaded us to get 
 in their boat and go on shore, which 
 we very readily agreed to, and at two 
 o'clock landed in Falmouth. Never 
 in my life did my heart overflow with 
 such joy and gratitude; I could scarce- 
 ly believe myself on terra firma again ; 
 the air, the ground, the bread, every- 
 thing was a source of the most sincere 
 gratitude, and no one but He who 
 searches the hearts of all can tell my 
 feeling, in the morning, when waking 
 and finding myself in a bed of safety 
 & quietude. 
 
24 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 We ate a very hearty breakfast; 
 the bread was remarkably fine and 
 grateful, after living so long on dry 
 biscuit. The Inn is larger than any 
 I ever saw, but very dirty. Mr. & 
 Mrs. Kirtland were engaged packing 
 and changing their baggage, and I 
 was persuaded, tho' it was very 
 muddy, to take a walk with Mr. Fox, 
 the American Consul. He took me 
 to his and his Brother's house; their 
 Ladies both received me with every 
 mark of attention and respect; their 
 houses were very elegant, and the 
 gardens more highly improved than 
 any I had ever seen. It seems to be the 
 custom there to give chocolate to morn- 
 ing visitors, and I was press'd by both 
 the Ladies to take a dish, with cake. 
 
 After returning to the Inn we took 
 a snack, and at two o'clock set out 
 on our journey and I was imme- 
 diately struck with the beauty of the 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 25 
 
 Country; the small fields divided by 
 hedges, the amazing verdure on the 
 ground, with the sweet harmony of 
 birds in the hedges, almost induced 
 us to think we were trav'ling thro' 
 enchanted fields rather than English. 
 A short time, however, altered the 
 scene as the Country began to look bar- 
 ren and bare, the appearance of De- 
 cember rather than May ; the weather 
 was so mild and the travelling so fine 
 that we were induced to ride till ten 
 o'clock, when we reached Bodmin. 
 Here we had the best bed of any since 
 we left Philadelphia, as handsome 
 Curtains, and the room as well fur- 
 nished as any gentleman's ; we had a 
 most excellent supper, and very good 
 attendance ; arose early in the morn- 
 ing and pursued our journey through 
 rather a barren Country, the County 
 of Cornwall, nothing but waste 
 ground, where the turf was put up in 
 
26 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 hills to burn ; we did not pass one 
 good or comfortable house all day 
 naught but the Thatched Cottage 
 without the shelter of one tree ; how 
 strange did it seem that, with so 
 much ground, there was scarcely the 
 appearance of any cultivation, how 
 forcibly does the difference strike an 
 American between the Palace and the 
 Cottage. We were very much di- 
 verted with the language in this place ; 
 could just find out that it was English ; 
 and they were the most ignorant peo- 
 <3 pie, I believe, in the world. There was 
 one woman who asked if we had 
 come all the way from America by 
 Land. But nothing struck me with 
 so much disgust as the game law, from 
 which a poor Man cannot, on his own 
 land, shoot a hare, which perhaps 
 would feed a wife and children, for 
 whom he is unable to purchase meat, 
 for several days. Oppressed people 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 27 
 
 indeed! You will one day or other, 
 I hope, claim your rights, and, like the 
 generous American, let merit only dis- 
 tinguish the Man. 
 
 December 8th. We reached Exeter 
 late this night. I was very much fa- 
 tigued and went immediately to bed, 
 had a very good room, through the 
 politeness of a gentleman who had 
 taken it, and had a good fire; but on 
 Mrs. Bowen telling the Chamber- 
 Maid it was for a sick Lady, he offered 
 to give it up. Mrs. Kirtland rather 
 displeased because she had one not 
 quite as good. We determined to rest 
 on the Sabbath day which we did, 
 and found it much more agreeable 
 traveling alone. Mr. and Mrs. Smith, 
 for whom Mr. Bayard had letters, 
 call'd and invited us to tea ; we ac- 
 cordingly waited on them and were 
 received with much friendliness ; they 
 mentioned the Cathedral as a great 
 
28 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 curiosity to strangers, and went with 
 us, the next day, to see it. It was in- 
 deed worth seeing, and the first piece 
 of antiquity we had ever seen. I 
 cannot recollect who it was that built 
 it, but Mr. Smith said it had been 
 four hundred & fifty years from the 
 foundation till it was finished. In the 
 afternoon we proceeded on our jour- 
 ney, and, with Mr. and Mrs. Smith, 
 dined on our way at Mrs. Davy's; 
 dined there on hare ; it was brought 
 on table in the second course, but I 
 cannot say either of us preferred it to 
 venison. We were surprised to see 
 them eat celery with cheese, after din- 
 ner; the Devonshire-cream, as they 
 call'd it, I was pleased with ; it is heated 
 over a little fire with cinnamon and 
 loaf sugar. The trouble we took in 
 going a little out of our way was fully 
 repaid by the pleasure it appeared to 
 give Mrs. Davy, who seemed to regret 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 29 
 
 the absence of her Son very much ; 
 we left them at three o'clock and pro- 
 ceeded on to Tiverton, a small but 
 pleasant place ; we had good accomo- 
 dations, and rose very early the next 
 morning, and reached Glastonbury at 
 twelve ; here we took a view of the 
 famous Abbey, walked all through and 
 got a piece of the pavement and a 
 sprig of the holly-thorn which blows 
 at Christmas. 
 
 Tuesday 10. We arrived at Bath 
 late this evening; was very much 
 pleased with the appearance of the 
 City, illuminated as we thought, from 
 the very brilliant show it made. We 
 are now at the London Inn, and, from 
 every thing around me, I should rather 
 suppose myself in the house of some 
 private gentleman of three or four 
 thousand a year; every thing is in bet- 
 ter order and higher style than I ever 
 saw at an Inn. What are we to ex- 
 
 3* 
 
)0 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 pect to-morrow? I am all impatience. 
 After taking a good dish of Coffee 
 we were shown to our rooms by the 
 Chamber-Maid, as smart a looking 
 Lady as any you ever meet at home ; 
 she gave us an excellent bed, and, as 
 we were much fatigued, we slept till 
 nine, and were refreshed very much; 
 our curiosity would fain lead us to 
 take a walk through the city, but we 
 knew not a creature whom we could 
 ask to shew us the way ; however we 
 determined to get a porter, and, while 
 we were standing at the door, a very 
 Jarge woman came up and asked the 
 nearest way to the Pump-room ; we 
 immediately determined to follow her 
 which we did, till I fancy she thought 
 we were following her with evil de- 
 sign, and walked so slow that we were 
 obliged to pass her, and then did not 
 know what to do. At length we 
 stepp'd into a shop and inquired the 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 31 
 
 nearest way to the Pump-room ; the 
 master of the shop was obliging 
 enough to send a little Girl with us; 
 we examined the baths and different 
 rooms, of which there were several : 
 two private rooms on each side with 
 beds in, for them to rest on after bath- 
 ing ; these baths you pay per day ; 
 but there is another large one outside 
 for commoners for which but 6d is de- 
 manded. It is equally good but more 
 public; a constant smoke is rising 
 from that, and we were told it could 
 be made of any heat. We tasted it, and 
 were almost made sick. There are 
 several shower-baths and every con- 
 venience that could be thought of. 
 We gave the woman a trifle and re- 
 turned to the Inn, fearing to go any 
 further. The master of the Inn heard 
 by accident that we were strangers 
 and begg'd that he might be allowed 
 to shew us those parts of the City 
 
32 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 which were worth seeing ; we thanked 
 him and were very glad to accept of 
 his offer. . . . We walked, I dare say, 
 three miles and were highly gratified ; 
 the mode of building pleased us 
 much ; we went into a small Church 
 which was built by some private 
 gentlemen for their own use; it was 
 a very neat building, but not remark- 
 able for anything but a very fine paint- 
 ing done by a lad of seventeen. . . . 
 After taking dinner we set out for 
 the last stage to London. The road 
 was excellent, the houses better than 
 any we had seen, and we hurried on 
 to reach Marlborough that night, that 
 we might get to London by day- 
 light the next day. We accordingly 
 rode very late and left Marlborough at 
 four the next day. The Country then 
 was delightful, the gentlemen's Seats 
 very close, almost every mile; I never 
 felt my attention so roused; I got a 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 33 
 
 head-ache, looking about . . . and as 
 we drew near the City my impatience 
 increased. At the last change of horses 
 we were told it was ten miles from 
 London, and from that the road was 
 lined with houses, as close as they 
 could stand, that I thought we were 
 in London; but we still rode, full 
 speed, near an hour long, and almost 
 lost in expectation, till at last we en- 
 tered the great arch lighted very bril- 
 liantly with a number of lamps. I 
 then thought we should soon be at 
 the Adelphi Hotel ; but it was full an 
 hour before the Coachman stopp'd. 
 I seriously thought he had heard we 
 were strangers and was trifling with 
 us, but we at length reached our 
 place of abode, and were shown into 
 a handsome parlour, where a fire was 
 soon lighted, and some tea and coffee 
 served up. We were diverted at the 
 morsel of butter and the few lumps 
 
34 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 of sugar that they sent in ; I was fa- 
 tigued and my spirits depressed; I 
 could eat nothing. My Dear Mr. 
 Bayard took notice of it and ten- 
 derly enquired the cause, but I could 
 not speak my heart was too full; 
 my friends and their affection rushed 
 on my mind; three thousand miles 
 separated from all of them, that I was 
 in a Land of strangers whom I had 
 early been taught to look upon as 
 enemies, was a thought that would 
 very naturally affect me. 1 could not 
 refrain from tears. Mr. Bayard said 
 every thing he could to reconcile me 
 to my situation, and begg'd me to 
 go to bed. I went to my chamber 
 and was consoled by seeing Mrs. 
 Bowen (who knew not a creature) 
 look cheerful and contented. We 
 went to bed about ten, and had a 
 good night's rest. In the morning 
 the first thing I thought of was writ- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 35 
 
 ing to my friend Bell Vandam. I 
 dropp'd her a line by the penny post, 
 she unfortunately was out of Town ; 
 but her good Uncle came to us im- 
 mediately, sent for a Coach and di- 
 rected the man to drive to No. 8 
 Guilford Street, where we were re- 
 ceived with great kindness. Bell 
 came in just after; we were both 
 rejoiced at so unexpected a meeting, 
 and had a thousand things to say. 
 They determined at once that we 
 must live near them, and went out 
 with me that afternoon to look for 
 Lodgings in the neighbourhood; we 
 took the best we could find, for a 
 Month, till we could get better. Our 
 friends' cheerfulness and affection 
 made, the day pass agreeably, and 
 we returned in the evening, and 
 moved the next day. I had never 
 lived at lodgings before, and was 
 rather dissatisfied. The rooms are 
 
36 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 dark, and muddy, the fire gloomy & 
 dirty, the streets and the weather 
 insupportable. 
 
 This Climate will never agree with 
 me; I shall return to my friends in 
 worse health than I came ; but Heaven 
 pardon my ungratefulness; let me be 
 contented with the situation in which 
 I am placed, and never forget the late 
 mercies I have received. 
 
 Mr. Vandam's family are very kind 
 and endeavour to remove every diffi- 
 culty, and many, very many, I find in 
 house-keeping ; it is so different from 
 what I have been accustomed to that 
 I shall never feel contented till I get 
 in some place where they will board 
 me. Had I but the luck of getting 
 into a clever family, I would put up 
 with many a difficulty rather than 
 trouble myself in this way again. We 
 shall go in search of some, to-morrow ; 
 I cannot put up with dishonesty. Mrs. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 37 
 
 Church was the first visitor I had. 
 She called the day after we came, was 
 very polite and sent us an invitation 
 for Sunday, tho' this was a day that I 
 had always been used to keep holy, 
 and not visit. As we were strangers 
 we accepted the invitation, but went 
 to the foundling hospital in the morn- 
 ing heard a pretty good discourse 
 and were much pleased with the clean 
 and neat appearance of the Children ; 
 we heard the blind man and woman 
 sing, but I cannot say it pleased me, 
 tho' the Man sang remarkably well ; 
 but it had too much the appearance 
 of a play-house ; however they are ad- 
 mired, and I must not let my opinion 
 be heard, we went in the hall, or 
 rather dining room, to see the Chil- 
 dren eat their dinner. 
 
 It was then near three and time to go 
 home and eat my luncheon, as they 
 call it, before I dress for dinner. . 4 . 
 
38 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 I returned from Mrs. Church's 
 much pleased, found her a very agree- 
 able woman; she met me with as 
 much sociability as if I had been an 
 old acquaintance; they live in great 
 style, the house was elegantly fur- 
 nished and the dining table shone 
 with a full service of Plate, tho' less on 
 the table than I had ever seen, for so 
 many people, and dressed different; 
 the first course I made my dinner on, 
 which was Salmon-soup, and a roast 
 foul, Asparagrass & string beans (in 
 Dec. ) ; she was very attentive through 
 the evening and politely offered to 
 send me her tickets for the opera next 
 evening; Mr. Church is an affable, 
 agreeable Man, but engrosses almost 
 too much of the conversation . . . 
 
 Monday. According to promise the 
 tickets are sent, and as it is quite a 
 new thing we must go and see it ... 
 Bell Vandam, Mr. Bayard and I set 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 39 
 
 off for the Opera; there was a very 
 genteel company, and the house very 
 elegant, but we were not much 
 pleased with the entertainment, as 
 we could not understand a word; 
 however it is the fashion to admire it, 
 and I must take care what I say. . . . 
 
 The next week several Ladies called 
 upon me and sent invitations to din- 
 ner. Christmas day we spent with our 
 friends very agreeably; but oh how 
 unlike the season before; the next 
 day we dined out of town at Mr. 
 Jacobses, lost our way by the stu- 
 pidity of the Coachman, and setting 
 out too late. 
 
 Sunday 28. Dined at home; after 
 walking three or four miles in pursuit 
 of a Presbyterian meeting-house, we 
 found Mr. Sterret's, whom D. A. Rush 
 mentioned, but unfortunately he was 
 sick, and we heard a very indifferent 
 sermon ; however we were gratified 
 
40 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 by worshipping in our own way ; to- 
 morrow I hope we shall be at home, 
 tho' it is a less agreeable home than I 
 ever had. Tuesday, Mr. Bayard dined 
 at Mr. Jay's, and I spent with our 
 good friends, and Wednesday was at 
 a large party with them; Thursday 
 evening went to the theatre, and was 
 very highly entertained ; the house is 
 elegant and many of the actors su- 
 perior to ours, the changes in the 
 Pantomime were capital, and the mu- 
 sic excellent. Friday spent the day 
 very agreeably with Mrs. Davy ; found 
 everything perfectly genteel, she ap- 
 pears to be a smart, amiable Woman 
 and resembles Mrs. Nancy Hodge 
 very much ; there were several Ladies 
 and gentlemen there, and we re- 
 ceived offers of politeness and atten- 
 tion from them all. We engaged to 
 dine and go to Church with them on 
 Sunday, which we did, and heard an 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 41 
 
 excellent discourse from a Mr. Win- 
 ter returning from Church we saw 
 my Lord Mayor's State Coach at- 
 tended by the Sheriff; the latter car- 
 riage I thought much the prettier, 
 as it was more modern and not so 
 heavy; the Mayor's really looks as if 
 it came out of Noah's ark, but, from 
 the parade and show attending him, 
 a stranger would suppose he was the 
 King. 
 
 January 10. Dined at Lord Bal- 
 gonie's; were received with much 
 politeness and less ceremony than 
 I expected ; none of that Parade and 
 Form that I looked for in the house 
 of a Lord, but every thing perfectly 
 genteel and elegant. " My lady " (as 
 they call'd her) is a sensible, fine- 
 looking woman, a handsome likeness 
 of Miss Bradford, tho' not quite so 
 large; she is very affable and polite, 
 offered to get me Tickets of admit- 
 
42 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 tance into the privy Chamber on the 
 birth-day. She accordingly sent Tick- 
 ets in the morning, and we attended ; 
 but I think I shall never feel any in- 
 clination to go again, such parade and 
 ridiculous homage is disgusting to a 
 plain American ; they really treat the 
 King as if he was some superior 
 being. 
 
 January //. This day my Dear 
 Mr. Bayard is 28 years of age. Ac- 
 cording to our usual custom we had 
 a few friends to spend the day with 
 us, but how small the number to 
 what I had been accustomed to meet 
 on that day ; how did my heart bleed 
 at the recollection of the tender and 
 heartfelt congratulations I ever re- 
 ceived from my friends on the return 
 of this day ; Alas ! there are none here 
 who feel much interested for us. ... 
 How can I ever rest another year in this 
 place ; I trust our stay will not be long. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 43 
 
 January 15. Spent this day at Mr. 
 Vaughan's very agreeably ; found them 
 charmingly situated, about three miles 
 from Town, everything about them 
 plain tho' perfectly genteel, they had 
 a thousand questions to ask us about 
 America. They are great Americans. 
 I expect much pleasure from their ac- 
 quaintance. 
 
 January 77. At the first Card 
 party this evening at Mr. Coxe's; 
 they live in a much plainer style than 
 I expected ; have not troubled us with 
 attention, tho' I brought a letter from 
 her Mother; we met Mr. Furgeson 
 there, who is a fine, handsome-look- 
 ing man ; we played at loto. . . . 
 
 An invitation had been sent, some 
 time, from Mr. Barckley's, and this 
 day we promised to spend with him ; 
 he has a charming place at Clapham. 
 Found him very friendly and polite; 
 was much affected at seeing his 
 
44 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 twelve Orphan Children, all very 
 pretty and well-dressed ; saw the fa- 
 mous Mr. Wilberforce, a small man but 
 remarkably sprightly & entertaining. 
 
 Sunday 25. Spent charmingly at 
 home, by ourselves ; what an enjoy- 
 ment is it sometimes to be alone, 
 particularly on the Sabbath day, that 
 day which it seems our duty to de- 
 vote to ourselves & our God. 
 
 February 2, 7795. Dined at Mr. 
 Pinkney's, with a large party; met 
 with Mrs. Kirtland, the most dress'd 
 in company ; Mrs. Church there and 
 very plain ; the contrast so great that 
 I could not help observing it. ... 
 
 I was much pleased with Mr. Pinjc- 
 ney, he has very much the appear- 
 ance and delivery that our good friend 
 Mr. Bradford has ; his situation inter- 
 esting and distressing, left with seven 
 children, to learn the loss of so ami- 
 able a woman as Mrs. Pinkney was. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 45 
 
 I spent the day at Mr. Vandam's; 
 saw Mr. & Mrs. Grant from New 
 York; play'd at Commerce & poole; 
 but shall never be pleased with cards. 
 
 Saturday 7. Mr. Church was so 
 polite as to send me their order for 
 his box at the Theatre, and, tho' the 
 play was indifferent and the evening 
 very cold, I was induced to go. " As 
 you Like it," & "My Grand Mother," 
 were performed ; but a little company, 
 and they did not act with spirit; we 
 were very sadly entertained, and suf- 
 fered extremely with the cold; the 
 next day walked a great way to 
 Church and returned home in a vio- 
 lent ague, kept my bed for several 
 days, but, thank God, am now quite 
 recovered ; what a blessing is health, 
 we know not its value till deprived 
 of it. Still too much indisposed to 
 go to the assembly, but prevailed 
 upon Mr. Bayard to go with the ladies 
 
46 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 with whom I was engaged to go. 
 He returned quite early, highly pleased 
 with the brilliancy of the room, but 
 did not think the ladies danced as 
 well as in America. I am determined 
 to go and judge for myself. 
 
 Friday 13. Spent the day at home 
 in writing to my friends, the most 
 agreeable employment I now have. 
 A very deep snow has fallen and re- 
 minds us of what we have been used 
 to see at this season ; the poor suf- 
 fer exceedingly ; coal is now half a 
 guinea a sack; bread very high; a 
 scarcity is apprehended. 
 
 Monday 16. . . . Dined at Mr. 
 Vaughan's, the bachelor; Mr. and 
 Mrs. Barbauld there, and their Brother 
 and wife (Dr. Aiken) ; Mrs. Barbauld 
 a very small woman, agreeable and 
 cheerful in conversation, asked many 
 questions about America, & expressed 
 a wish to go there. Began music this 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 47 
 
 day with Mr. Jones, a very arduous 
 task, but I hope I shall have resolu- 
 tion to persevere, as 1 have so often 
 said I would learn if ever I had an 
 opportunity. . . . 
 
 Thursday 19. Spent the day at 
 Mrs. Dickenson's; was surprised to 
 see so fine and large a house in such 
 a confined and small street, for it is 
 situated quite up a Court; they had 
 been in America, and had a great 
 many questions to ask about their old 
 friends; Mr. Dickenson seems deter- 
 mined to go and settle there for 
 life. . . . 
 
 Tuesday 24. Was engaged at Mrs. 
 Noble's to dinner; set out early and 
 called upon Mrs. Church, Lady Bal- 
 gonie and Mrs. Kirtland ... we 
 were received with much affection by 
 Mrs. Noble and her sister; spent the 
 most agreeable and sociable day we 
 had done since we have been in Eng- 
 
48 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 land; conversed a great deal about 
 all our friends ; she appears to know 
 everybody. . . . 
 
 Wednesday 25. How pleasant is 
 it sometimes to be alone ! It is now 
 a perfect feast; I am wearied with 
 engagements, I long for the enjoy- 
 ment once more of a quiet life; how 
 delighted would I be now to pass a 
 month or two at New Rochelle. . . . 
 
 Thursday 26. Went to the Lon- 
 don assembly, a very brilliant one in- 
 deed, five hundred Ladies and gentle- 
 men all well dress'd, the room very 
 spacious and five of the largest lustres 
 hung through the middle of the room, 
 and twelve or fifteen smaller around ; 
 the assembly was opened by two 
 minuets, and after those nothing was 
 danced but reels and Country dances. 
 They really do not dance as well as 
 Americans, they all appear to have 
 corns on their feet their waists are 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 49 
 
 foolishly short, I may almost say they 
 had none ; I went down into the card 
 room where eighteen Card tables 
 were set and most of them fill'd in 
 the room next the ball room was tea 
 and coffee (for it seems they do not 
 sup), and next to that is a room where 
 every refreshment is served. I danced 
 four dances and left the room at 
 twelve o'clock, but could not get away 
 till one, the constant cry, of Mr. Such- 
 a-one's carriage which was echo'd 
 from one servant to another quite 
 frighten'd me with the confusion; 
 what a life is that of a Lady of fash- 
 ion ! Heaven forbid that ever I should 
 enjoy it. 
 
 Friday 27. Spent the day with 
 Mrs. Townley and accompanied her 
 to the Oratorio; tho' the music was 
 very fine and I enjoyed it excessively, 
 there was not that solemnity that I 
 expected in sacred music, indeed there 
 
50 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 is little of that even in the tunes that 
 are sung in the Churches ; it was over 
 about ten, and we returned home. . . . 
 
 Sunday, March i. A most delight- 
 ful day indeed, for the reason we 
 attended service twice and then dined 
 at Mrs. Herman's ; this I hope we shall 
 soon get excused from it is much 
 more agreeable to be at home. Mon- 
 day we are to dine at Mrs. Frasher's ; 
 we are really oppressed by invitations. 
 I sincerely hope it will soon be over, 
 but almost every day this week we 
 are engaged. I am sure I shall be un- 
 pardonable if I ever should return to 
 my native Country and not make a 
 point of returning this continual polite- 
 ness of the English. . . . 
 
 After being out every day this week 
 what a treat have I found it to be at 
 home all this day, and, tho' we had a 
 very shabby dinner, I enjoyed it really ; 
 as we are out so much, they might 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 51 
 
 afford to give us something better 
 when we are at home. How unfortu- 
 nate was it that we were engaged to 
 go to the Play in the evening, other- 
 wise our domestic engagements would 
 not have been interrupted for this 
 day it was the first time the 
 "Wheel of Fortune" was performed; 
 we were highly entertained with it, 
 as well as with "Alexander the 
 Great." . . . 
 
 Sunday, March 8. We went to 
 hear good Mr. Winter ... he gave 
 us, as he always does, a most ex- 
 cellent discourse, the subject, "Ir- 
 resolution as to that life which in 
 moments of reflection and retirement 
 we promise to lead." 
 
 Monday 9. ... How rejoiced am 
 I that Mr. Parton has given us notice 
 to leave these Lodgings next Month ; 
 we cannot be worse off, every thing 
 is uncomfortable about us this even- 
 
52 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 ing am engaged at a private assembly 
 with Mrs. Herman and Mrs. Slade, 
 but shall go with much reluctance, as 
 my Dr. Mr. Bayard is too busy to ac- 
 company us. ... 
 
 Sunday, March 22. After a week 
 of constant engagement how pleas- 
 ing is this day in which we are deter- 
 mined to be uninterrupted, but oh 
 what a life do we now lead, compared 
 with the quiet, regular, rational one 
 that used to mark the most of our 
 days at home; how little reflection 
 does it bear ; I trust however that there 
 is some good mixed with the folly that 
 is so constantly inviting us ; ... it 
 will not I hope shut my ears' to the 
 cries of the needy or distressed, for 
 there is no time when their poverty 
 struck my mind more forcibly than 
 in beholding the vast entertainments 
 or the extravagant equipages of the 
 wealthy of this place ; how comfort- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 53 
 
 able would many a poor Creature be 
 made by a few pounds from each es- 
 tate . . . even the wages and vic- 
 tuals of one man-servant would bear 
 the whole expense of one man's 
 family, and this servant perhaps the 
 tenth or fifteenth that is kept for idle 
 show ... I have been severely 
 shocked by the death of Mrs. Jay; 
 only the day before yesterday was I 
 conversing with her, and, tho' she had 
 been very ill, she thought then, that, 
 in a few days, she would be able to 
 come in and see me; we moved in 
 this street with the Idea of having her 
 for a neighbour; but alas! how un- 
 certain is every thing but death. . . . 
 Saturday 28. . . . Went out to 
 spend Sunday and Monday with Mr. 
 & Mrs. Bird and found them charm- 
 ingly situated . . . they really live 
 elegantly. I was exceedingly pleas'd 
 with Mrs. Bird, but thought her rather 
 
54 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 distant and formal . . . we spent 
 two days there very agreeably, and 
 returned on Tuesday to prepare for 
 a jaunt to Ramsgate with Mrs. Town- 
 ley. She insists upon our both going 
 in the Carriage with her, but I am 
 afraid we shall have an uncomfort- 
 able ride. . . . 
 
 Tuesday. We have all been en- 
 gaged these two days in packing up 
 to move, as the things will be taken to 
 our new house before we return; I 
 sincerely hope we shall be more com- 
 fortable when we move; all that I 
 dread is the Cook; the English ser- 
 vants are so different from ours that I 
 fancy I shall not be pleased. 
 
 April 7. Set out with Mrs. Town- 
 ley for Ramsgate, but unfortunately 
 she had determined to take her young- 
 est Child with her, and the most un- 
 ruly Child I ever saw ; I foresaw that 
 we should have a disagreeable ride, 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 55 
 
 but she kept him in rather better 
 order than I expected; at twelve 
 o'clock we reached Woolwich and 
 went to an acquaintance of Mrs. 
 Townley's who very politely asked 
 us to dinner; we went down to ex- 
 amine the tower. We hurried on to 
 Rochester that night, had excellent 
 beds, and the next morning rose early 
 to walk about the Town. The first 
 thing that drew our attention was 
 the remains of a tower, and, tho' we 
 climbed to the top, still we could not 
 see much as the weather was cloudy, 
 and I was very much afraid of the 
 walls falling in. From this we next 
 went to the Chapel and examined 
 that. It is a fine building & worth a 
 stranger's attention. We returned to 
 the Inn, took some refreshment and 
 proceeded on to Chatham, visited 
 Chatham Docks and reached Canter- 
 bury that night the next day, being 
 
56 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 good Friday, we stayed there and 
 went in the morning to the Cathedral, 
 said to be the finest in England; it 
 took us two hours to go through it; 
 there were a great many curiosities 
 shown us ; among the most striking to 
 me was the armour of Edward the 
 Black Prince ; it is so old that touch- 
 ing it it falls to pieces. The floor is all 
 marble; and just near the altar, where 
 the pilgrims used to kneel, is quite 
 worn in a hollow. . . . From this 
 we walked round the City walls and 
 went to see Simon's Folly, as it is 
 call'd; it is a very great eminence 
 raised with earth, in shape of a sugar 
 loaf, handsomely sodded and a path, 
 with railings round it, winds round 
 and round till you reach the top, 
 where there are handsome seats and 
 a most beautiful view of the Country. 
 ... It took its name from the gen- 
 tleman who had it made. The next 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 57 
 
 day we arrived at Ramsgate, after a 
 very pleasant ride, and, tho' it was 
 rather cold, the evening was remark- 
 ably pleasant, the Moon shone with 
 unusual splendour and induced us to 
 take a walk of about a half a mile to 
 see the first Pier in England, as it is 
 call'd, and a most excellent one it is; 
 but the dashing of the waves against 
 the shore, and the hollow sound of 
 the wind, made me shudder at the 
 reflection of the number of distress'd 
 ships that must in vain seek for shel- 
 ter in this friendly harbour happy 
 indeed are those whose wretched 
 bark is saved from destruction by 
 this vast exertion of the benevolent 
 builders. We examined the bathing 
 machines, which are much like our 
 covered waggons with a large sail 
 behind and steps for those who bathe 
 to descend ... we returned to tea, 
 and I was glad to retire early. The 
 
58 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 next day was not fine enough to in- 
 duce Mrs. Townley or myself to go 
 out, but Mr. Bayard walked all over 
 the town. . . . The next day we 
 took a ride to Margate; it is much the 
 finer town of the two, tho' we durs't 
 not say so ... on our return home 
 we call'd at an acquaintance of Mrs. 
 
 Townley, a Mrs. , a compleat 
 
 Farmer, and one who lived in elegant 
 simplicity; she has all the airs of a 
 fine Lady, while her Husband was 
 confined to his house with that gen- 
 tlemanly complaint the gout. This 
 week has pass'd very agreeably, but I 
 fear the next will be dull and tedious, 
 as my D r Mr. Bayard is to leave me. 
 Separated from him, and my Darling 
 Boy, my heart can feel but little 
 pleasure in any place. ... I shall 
 urge returning on Friday. . . . 
 
 Yesterday we drank tea at the cler- 
 gyman's of the parish, and, for the 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 59 
 
 first time in my life, I play'd cards by 
 day-light, and never felt more awk- 
 ward or ashamed of myself ; the first 
 thing here, as in London, on entering 
 a room after tea is the card tables in- 
 troduced, and really there is very little 
 pleasure in visiting your most intimate 
 friend, on these terms, it is the greatest 
 task I know of; I shall never like Cards. 
 
 Thursday. I rejoice that tomorrow 
 is determined on for our return; tho' 
 Mrs. Townley has been very polite and 
 attentive, I cannot be happy separated 
 from my good Husband and Dear 
 Boy. I should be sadly grieved if to- 
 morrow should prove a bad day. . . . 
 
 Sunday night we arrived at Clap- 
 ham, very late. As they expected us, 
 the Child was kept up, and came run- 
 ning to the door with his Papa to meet 
 us; never did my heart experience 
 more lively sentiments of maternal af- 
 fection and joy than in the moment I 
 
60 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 clasped him to my bosom I could 
 not speak; the dear fellow observing 
 my emotion burst out a-crying, and, 
 with his little arms round my neck, 
 begged me not to cry, now I was with 
 him; I loved him a short time, and 
 then went to see him in bed. 
 
 Monday 12. Came to town to our 
 new house, and found it in a very 
 unfurnished state, the smell of the 
 paint very disagreeable. Mrs. Town- 
 ley came with us and insisted upon 
 our returning to spend a week or two 
 at Clapham, but, as their family was 
 large, we declined. ... I long to 
 feel that I have a home. . . . 
 
 Sunday 18. As much as 1 am 
 pleased with my new situation I shall 
 be obliged to leave it for a few days 
 through the polite and kind permis- 
 sion of Mrs. Slade, who was here yes- 
 terday, and says we may all get our 
 deaths by staying among the paint; 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 6 1 
 
 the coach is to call for us this morning 
 and take us to the Asylum, and, after 
 Church, we are to go to the Park for 
 the first time. . . . 
 
 Monday 79. We had an excellent 
 discourse yesterday from a Mr. Hodg- 
 don on death. It was a Charity ser- 
 mon and was deliver'd with great 
 feeling. What a benevolent institu- 
 tion is that, where upwards of a 
 hundred & fifty female Orphans are 
 well taught and enabled to get their 
 living in an honest way; what hon- 
 our does this institution reflect upon 
 the founder. 
 
 After Church we went to Hyde 
 Park, where I was much amused with 
 the sight, tho' 1 did not approve the 
 custom ; there were upwards of a thou- 
 sand Carriages full, and the object of 
 this meeting is to stare at each other, 
 the Carriages driving just on a walk 
 close by the side of each other, when 
 
62 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 sometimes the dust is enough to choke 
 you. Thus do many people spend 
 every Sabbath of the year, when the 
 weather will permit, not only them- 
 selves but their servants ; for the most 
 of them have three great footmen be- 
 hind their Carriages. . . . What a 
 waste of time is this, how irrational, 
 and unlike the devotions of my good 
 Uncle Boudinot's family; how much 
 more satisfaction is there in spending 
 time in this way than the idle, ridic- 
 ulous mode of riding up and down 
 Hyde Park. . . . 
 
 Wednesday 22. How charmingly 
 the time passes in this agreeable fam- 
 ily [Mrs. Slade's], not an hour hangs 
 heavy, because there is not a moment 
 unoccupied. Their attentions are be- 
 yond anything we could expect. I 
 am very much pleased with them. 
 Last Sunday we went to the Mag- 
 dalen Asylum, another benevolent in- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 63 
 
 stitution, where women of abandoned 
 character are concealed from public 
 view & reformed. 
 
 Thursday, April 30, 1795* We re- 
 turned home, contrary to inclination, 
 this day, in consequence of several 
 engagements to spend the evening; 
 fain would I take advantage of the 
 present fashion and send an apology 
 the day before, but I cannot justify 
 this to myself it is not doing as I 
 would wish to be done by. We left 
 our friends with great reluctance with 
 the promise of paying them another 
 visit in strawberry season. . . . 
 
 Monday, May 20. I have been se- 
 verely attacked with one of those 
 violent fevers to which I am so sub- 
 ject, and alarmed all my friends so 
 much that they sent for an apothe- 
 cary, who did not know half as much 
 of my constitution as I did myself 
 ... he sent me two or three phials 
 
64 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 of medicine a day, of which I did not 
 take a drop after the first day ; there 
 was nothing did me so much good as 
 camomile tea, and I am now, thank 
 God, quite recovered. . . . 
 
 Sunday 10. We heard a most ex- 
 cellent discourse, this morning, on 
 Hope, from our good Mr. Winter; 
 drank tea at home quite alone; we 
 now begin to enjoy the comforts of 
 home, and tho' we are at much more 
 expense, still I think we are in pro- 
 portion more comfortable. . . . 
 
 Wednesday 13. . . . Dined with 
 a very large party at Mrs. Townley's 
 met Mrs. Townley's Brother, a 
 Clergyman, who plays on the piano 
 inimitably; I fear I shall never excel 
 as we are engaged every day of the 
 week. 
 
 Monday, May 25, 7795. As a great 
 treat My D r Mr. Bayard took a walk 
 with me this morning; we looked at 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 65 
 
 a great many pretty things; what a 
 variety there is in this place to tempt 
 people. I really find it impossible to 
 go out without spending money ; we 
 went to see the gallery of painting at 
 Somerset house, there are to be seen 
 finer than any thing I ever saw of 
 the kind, and we spent three hours 
 there without knowing it; and such 
 a crowd of company, many of whom 
 I am told will spend four hours at 
 a time there, often. 
 
 Thursday 28. This morning I wit- 
 nessed the most pleasing and beauti- 
 ful sight in the world six or eight 
 thousand Children were assembled in 
 St. Paul's Church, and arranged in 
 perfect order and neatness, one above 
 the other, on benches erected for the 
 purpose; each school was distin- 
 guished by the colour of the Children's 
 clothes, and some little flag with 
 the name of the Charity to which they 
 
66 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 belonged, and the number supported 
 in it . . . some years I am told there 
 are from ten to twelve thousand 
 what a charming and grateful sight 
 must this be to a reflective mind. 
 We, from going early, had a choice 
 of seats, and were very conveniently 
 situated just under the dome, as it is 
 calFd, which is very near the pulpit, 
 tho' we could not hear a word of the 
 sermon from the vast number of peo- 
 ple there were constantly coming in. 
 I never, 1 think, was brought so near 
 heaven in my life, as on the first 
 burst of singing, their young voices 
 all according in such delightful har- 
 mony, the situation of them, their 
 being as it were raised above us in 
 the Clouds, all tended to impress my 
 mind with solemnity and fill my heart 
 with the most grateful emotion. 
 
 Saturday 6. We have been en- 
 gaged but twice, and I have spent my 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 67 
 
 time very agreeably at home; tho' I 
 know not why, but there is a constant 
 gloom on my spirits, for which I can- 
 not account; tho' I am not supersti- 
 tious I feel a little uneasy, and the 
 fatigue of last night makes me feel 
 it particularly to day, we spent the 
 morning, for I cannot say the evening 
 with any propriety, at Ranelagh; I 
 was dressed by nine o'clock and got to 
 Mrs. Herman's at ten, where we found 
 our party waiting supper for us. ... 
 We accordingly sat down to a cold 
 supper, and set off at a quarter past 
 eleven I was so impatient that I 
 thought we never should get there, 
 for there was a stopping of coaches, 
 near a mile, before we reached it it 
 was seven miles from Mrs. Herman's, 
 and it was half past twelve when we 
 stopp'd at the door, and, tho' I had 
 heard so much of the room, it sur- 
 passed every Idea I had formed both 
 
68 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 in size and brilliancy ; it was elegantly 
 lighted and well fill'd with company; 
 there were upwards of five thousand 
 people all well dress'd, and most of 
 the nobility. The Music was excel- 
 lent, but it was not the fashion to at- 
 tend to it, we walked round and round 
 the room till I was so completely fa- 
 tigued that I could scarcely stand ; the 
 gentlemen at length got a box and we 
 ordered tea, but had it in such confu- 
 sion and hurry that it was very un- 
 pleasant; at two o'clock we went into 
 the gardens to see the fire-works 
 where we were amused about half an 
 hour very agreeably, returned to the 
 room and walked round it three or 
 four times and then found that it was 
 three, and left the room, seeing many 
 come in as we went out. It was then 
 as light as at noon, and just before we 
 got home the sun arose ; it was a few 
 minutes after four when I got to my 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 69 
 
 chamber and, with the assistance of 
 Mrs. Bowen, tore off my clothes and 
 jump'd into bed ; never was I more 
 rejoiced to get from any amusement. 
 I think nothing but going to oblige a 
 friend shall ever tempt me again; 
 I felt wretchedly all the next day, and 
 for several days after did not get 
 over it. ... 
 
 Wednesday, June 77. I have this 
 day been to see the Mausoleum ; it is 
 the most superb thing I ever saw, 
 and, tho' it is most intolerably muddy, 
 I determined to go, as this was said 
 to be the last day it was to be seen. 
 It is now near a fortnight since we 
 have had a pleasant day, indeed I can 
 hardly promise myself good weather 
 till I see my own dear native Country 
 again. I ought not to regret coming 
 here, tho' the climate at this season 
 is so intolerable, there is such a fund 
 of amusement here for a stranger, 
 
70 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 that really it is almost worth risking 
 the dangers of the Ocean. . . . Among 
 all the curiosities I have seen there 
 is not one I admire so much as the 
 Mausoleum, it is elegant beyond de- 
 scription, made entirely of Glass of 
 different colours, elegantly cut. It is 
 said to be intended for the Tomb of an 
 Indian Nabob's Mother. . . . The man 
 who showed it told me that he was 
 obliged to send a person over to put 
 it up. I forget the price of it, but it 
 was enormous, ^4,000. Vain mor- 
 tals ! how do we strive to take our 
 riches to the grave with us, and how 
 hard do some part with them, even 
 in the hour of death. . . . How dis- 
 gusting is any parade attending the 
 dead; the funeral pomps of this place 
 serve often to remind me of the weak- 
 ness and vanity of human nature. . . . 
 How much better could the many 
 thousands which are laid out in bury- 
 
MARTHA P1NTARD BAYARD 7 1 
 
 ing the dead be applied to the poor 
 of this place. 
 
 Sunday, June 20. Tho' we have 
 been out several times this week the 
 time seems heavy and long. I sup- 
 pose the reason is that I have been 
 so constantly expecting letters and 
 so anxious for them ; tomorrow will 
 bring something \ hope for us, it is 
 indeed now the chief pleasure I have, 
 that of hearing from and writing to 
 my absent friends. . . . 
 
 June 21. This day, not according 
 to my inclinations, we were to have 
 spent with Mr. & Mrs. Turner at 
 their villa ; but the weather is so bad 
 that we put it off till later in the 
 season; we heard an excellent dis- 
 course from Mr. Winter, and, at two 
 o'clock, Mrs. Dancer call'd and in- 
 sisted upon our going to Kensington 
 Gardens ; we accordingly took some- 
 thing cold and jumped into a Coach 
 
72 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 and went to the gate; here we were 
 admitted by an old woman, who sits 
 there and sells refreshments of every 
 sort. The gardens are really beautiful, 
 the spacious walks, and the lofty 
 trees with the pretty disposed shrub- 
 bery, all showing the richness, and 
 taste of this Country; the Palace is 
 only spacious, nothing elegant or 
 handsome about it. This is generally 
 occupied by those of the nobility 
 who are rather poor in purse, but are 
 fortunate in having friends at Court, 
 to procure them this genteel apart- 
 ment free from expense. . . . Tho' 
 the Park was this day thronged with 
 people, still the garden was nearly as 
 much so, tho' Mrs. Dancer said they 
 were very thin compared to some 
 other days . . . the gardens are 
 said to be four miles round, besides 
 the Park which adjoins it; and all the 
 gravel walks are kept in the most 
 perfect order imaginable. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 73 
 
 Tuesday, June 23. Took a ride to 
 Hempstead, in the afternoon, with our 
 little son, and drank tea at the Castle, 
 a famous house, which is beautifully 
 situated on the top of a very high hill 
 and commands a sweet view of as rich 
 a Country as I ever saw, on one side, 
 and on the other, the City of London. 
 We stayed so late that all the Coaches 
 were gone and we were obliged either 
 to walk to Town or stay there all night. 
 We determined to set off on foot and 
 trust to Providence ; a Coach however 
 overtook us & we got home safe. 
 
 Thursday 25. We have spent 
 this day charmingly, at home with 
 Mrs. Slade's and Mrs. Herman's fam- 
 ily; how much more agreeable are 
 a few friends in this social way than 
 all the visits of ceremony and Cards. 
 The Ladies came early to help me 
 dress Miss Doll, and the morning 
 passed very rapidly. The gentlemen 
 joined us at half past four and changed 
 
74 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 the conversation from dress to poli- 
 tics. Mrs. Slade is a charming wo- 
 man; I am more and more pleased 
 with her every time we meet; 1 prom- 
 ised to go out on Saturday and ac- 
 company her to Vauxhall. . . . 
 
 Monday 29. I was highly pleased 
 with Vauxhall. I think it is by far 
 the most agreeable place of amusement 
 in London; the early hours, and the 
 undress in which you can go, ren- 
 ders it much less fatiguing; there 
 were about four or five hundred peo- 
 ple that night, which I then thought 
 a large company, but was told the 
 gardens were very dull for want of 
 more. The singing was enchanting, 
 a hunting song by Mrs. Mountain 
 inimitable, and Dapling by Master 
 Welsh extremely fine, I could listen 
 with pleasure all night to such voices. 
 We left the garden at half past 
 ten. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 75 
 
 Saturday, July 4. Still gloomy wea- 
 ther. It is now four weeks since we 
 had a whole day clear. I went this 
 morning with some Ladies to see an 
 exhibition of paintings. Many of 
 them are said to belong to the nobility 
 of France . . . they are really very 
 fine, some of them almost exceed 
 nature, a snow-storm in particular, 
 after looking at which for a few mo- 
 ments, you would think that on hold- 
 ing out the hand you might catch the 
 flakes as they fell ; the Portraits and 
 Landscapes are excellent, it was a 
 very rainy day and we all returned in 
 a Coach together. I dined quite alone, 
 as Mr. Bayard was engaged to cele- 
 brate the day with a large company 
 of Americans, and I suppose he finds 
 it hard to get off. ... It is now 
 past ten, and he is not yet returned 
 very unusual for him to be out with- 
 out me so late. Doctor Romayne 
 
76 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 was in just now, and laughing at me 
 says he durst say Mr. Bayard could 
 not see straight enough to get home 
 but this evil, thank God, I am not 
 uneasy about his knock at the door 
 obliges me to lay down my pen and 
 bid him welcome. . . . 
 
 Monday 6. How often is every 
 sentiment of benevolence and com- 
 passion call'd forth in this City, by the 
 Cries of the oppressed and afflicted; 
 this day have I heard such a tale of 
 sorrow as would melt the heart of a 
 stone, to see the aged and infirm who 
 had lived in affluence, now begging 
 on the street, and pleading their grey 
 hairs as an excuse for asking bread 
 for their Children is more than a less 
 compassionate heart than mine could 
 bear; I wept with her, and could my 
 mite yield any relief to her indigent 
 family how grateful would I be for 
 this opportunity of doing my duty 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 77 
 
 but I shall hear where she lives and 
 see her again. 
 
 July jth. This day we intended 
 spending at Mrs. Vaughan's ; they have 
 been very polite, and frequently ex- 
 pressed a wish to see us quite in the 
 family, but unfortunately Mr. Bayard 
 was detained so long in the City that 
 it was too late to go, and as we were 
 down by St. Paul's Church we deter- 
 mined to go and see it; but never in 
 my life was I so much fatigued ; the 
 size of it is beyond conception, not a 
 tenth, say a twelfth, part of it is 
 appropriated to public service num- 
 bers of families live in it, and get a 
 living from the few pence that are 
 given them by those who go to see 
 it. The floor of the library is curious, 
 joined together entirely without a 
 nail or peg, many old books that 
 were written eleven hundred years 
 ago on parchment, long before paper 
 
78 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 was discovered ; the whispering gal- 
 lery is wonderful stand in any part 
 of it and whisper against the wall, 
 and it can be heard very plainly the 
 other side, the report is so great on 
 shutting the door that it frightened 
 me as much as a clap of thunder has 
 ever done. From the top of this you 
 have a most beautiful view of Lon- 
 don, but there are many hundred 
 steps to ascend before this can be 
 obtained. 
 
 July 22. As I am quite alone and 
 at leisure, I can recollect with some 
 pleasure the jaunt I took yesterday to 
 Greenwich. We were of a party of 
 about twelve, and went up in two 
 boats to spend the day there, the river 
 is renowned for nothing but the ship- 
 ping, which is immense; the Hospital 
 makes a very handsome appearance 
 from the river, and is an excellent 
 Charity intended for the support of 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 79 
 
 wounded and disabled seamen; their 
 apartments are kept in very neat order, 
 and, besides their victuals and clothes, 
 they have an allowance of three shil- 
 lings per week. The painted Hall is 
 very fine, and the Chapel is more ele- 
 gantly furnished than any I have yet 
 seen. The altar-piece of Mr. West is 
 inimitable the old man who showed 
 it said it only cost eleven hundred 
 guineas. The Hospital is said to con- 
 tain at this time twenty-five hundred 
 seamen. We had an excellent din- 
 ner at the " Three Crowns"; the first 
 course was of fish entirely, and well- 
 cooked ; but the most beautiful sight 
 there was the West India fleet, which 
 was just coming in, and pass'd the 
 window. 
 
 July 2^. This day my dear little 
 boy has entered his fifth year. May 
 every returning birth-day of his life 
 be mark'd with the same Innocence 
 
8O THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 and Virtue as this, and, while he 
 grows in years, may he increase in 
 Knowledge and in the Attainment of 
 every virtuous and honorable Prin- 
 ciple ; he has been highly pleased by 
 presenting each of the servants with 
 some present, and the promise of his 
 Cousin's company to dinner. The 
 family are all to be with us, and I most 
 sincerely hope this may be the last 
 birth-day in London. 
 
 August 2, 7795. As excellent a dis- 
 course as I ever heard in my life was 
 this day from our good Mr. Winter; 
 would he was near to us that we might 
 hear him oftener; it was a reasonable 
 fine day, and we determined to take 
 dinner at one of the chop-houses in 
 the City that we might have the 
 pleasure of attending Church in the 
 afternoon ; and we were well repaid, 
 tho' our dinner was rather more than 
 was expected ; it was sacrament-Sun- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 8 1 
 
 day, and he took his text from these 
 words, "Blessed are they who go to 
 the house of God." I never was 
 more attentive, and I hope I shall be 
 more benefited than 1 have ever been 
 before ; he placed religion in so pleas- 
 ing a light, that all who heard must 
 indeed have wished to taste its de- 
 lights. 
 
 Thursday, Aug. 6. Induced by the 
 fineness of the day we took a ride out 
 to Mr. Vaughan's the day was re- 
 markably clear, for England, and the 
 Country looked uncommonly pleas- 
 ant; they received us with great 
 friendliness, and treated us with as 
 fine fruit as I ever have tasted ; for so 
 small a place, I never saw more fruit 
 in my life ; they have promised when 
 the nectarines are ripe to send me 
 some; there is nothing more gratify- 
 ing to me than to meet people of our 
 own opinion. Mr. Vaughan is a strong 
 
82 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 American; it delights me to hear him 
 converse, and Mrs. Vaughan is not less 
 so; she is much of the Lady, and 
 improves greatly upon acquaintance. 
 Tomorrow I know of no engage- 
 ment except in the morning. I have 
 two visits that I must pay, and then I 
 shall pass the rest of the day at home 
 this becomes more and more agree- 
 able to me every day, as I am more 
 engaged in family affairs; I trust I 
 shall soon become more contented 
 with London. 
 
 August 14. Five years have now 
 elaps'd since the most happy event of 
 my life, my connection with my dear 
 Mr. Bayard; the time has been varied 
 by adversity & prosperity, sickness 
 and health, affliction and joy. Seldom 
 does it fall to the share of my sex in 
 particular to be united so entirely to 
 their wishes generous, kind and 
 affectionate, he is all that I wish him 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 83 
 
 to be, and what I shall strive to make 
 myself. We have had our friends 
 over the way here, and Mr. & Mrs. 
 Colepoys to dinner. They meet us with 
 much affection, my absent Friends 
 rush'd on my mind and I could 
 scarcely speak ; however I retired for 
 a moment and overcame my feelings 
 endeavouring to console myself 
 with the hopes of spending the next 
 year with them. Heaven knows 
 whether I shall ever be so happy again. 
 September 8. We have just re- 
 turned from a most agreeable visit to 
 Dr. Nicholls, and, tho' it was the first 
 time I had the pleasure of seeing either 
 the Dr. or his Lady, in a half an hour 
 after I got there I felt perfectly at 
 home; so friendly and affable is she 
 that she must be loved and admired 
 wherever known. I am exceedingly 
 pleased with them both, and regret 
 that we should so long have visited 
 
84 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 without meeting; Mrs. Nicholls is 
 particularly agreeable to me, from the 
 resemblance I see in her manners to 
 Mrs. Bradford ; she has all Mrs. Brad- 
 ford's cheerfulness and ease in her man- 
 ners, joined to a very handsome face, 
 and as fine an eye as I ever saw ; she 
 has two sweet Children, with the 
 means of making them as fine women 
 as herself; they live as genteely as any 
 nobleman, nay 1 may say they have all 
 the advantages of these, both in ele- 
 gance, and style without the least form 
 or ceremony, their dinners were as 
 elegant, for the three days that we 
 were there, as many large entertain- 
 ments I have been at here ; four Foot- 
 men constantly attended which by- 
 the-by I thought unnecessary; but 
 this was style. We spent our time 
 most charmingly, and proposed re- 
 turning on Monday, but they politely 
 insisted on our staying, and, as an 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 85 
 
 inducement, proposed a jaunt to St. 
 Albans, a small town about 8 or 10 
 miles from there; we accordingly 
 set out and stopp'd a little this side, 
 at a Church of St. Nichols, where 
 there is a famous statue of Lord 
 Bacon, said to be remarkably well 
 done ; the Church is small but ancient 
 the parsonage is close by it. As 
 they were intimately acquainted with 
 the Dr. we were hospitably invited to 
 a simple repast, which was prepared 
 with much neatness while we were 
 in the Church; the house and the 
 reception, with everything around it, 
 perfectly answered the Idea I had 
 formed of a Country-pastor in Eng- 
 land; it was genteel but small, and 
 ornamented in the prettiest style by 
 Mrs. Gap's own hands the green- 
 house was on one side and hot-house 
 on the other, both fill'd with every- 
 thing that was good or pretty. The 
 
86 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 green-house in particular took my 
 attention ; it was full of the choicest 
 flowers, and so perfumed the air that 
 it was a regale to breathe in the atmos- 
 phere. After refreshing ourselves here 
 we went to the Abbey at St. Albans, 
 a very ancient building, but very much 
 injured by time ; here we descended 
 into a vault and handled the bones of 
 good Duke Humphrey. There was 
 one stone coffin which was found, 
 above thirty years ago, with bones in 
 it, and, at one end, a small cup ; the 
 teeth that were found in this coffin are 
 still shown, and Mrs. Bush hearing me 
 say I should like one, kept one in her 
 hand for me till we got to the inn, 
 which the old Man soon missing came 
 after us, and frightened me so that I 
 was glad to give it up. ... From 
 this we proceeded on to Lord Grim- 
 ston's Seat. The House is built on a 
 beautiful eminence, with a large lawn 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 87 
 
 all round it, in which are clumps of 
 trees very prettily disposed of, and 
 several hundred deer grazing beneath 
 them everything around speaks the 
 immense riches of its possessor. 
 After ascending twenty odd steps, a 
 well dressed porter opens two large 
 folding doors and ushers you into a 
 most superb hall handsomely orna- 
 mented with pictures of Kings, 
 Queens, &c., and a gallery above hung 
 in the same manner, the Hall is sixty 
 feet high, the House is rather in an 
 unfinished state his Lady's death, 
 which was greatly lamented, dissi- 
 pated his scheme of felicity, and 
 checked his rising ambition. She 
 died just as it was got in the order it 
 now is, and he has never since had 
 anything done to it the drawing- 
 room and Parlour were very elegant, 
 but no part of the house struck my 
 fancy so much as the library, which 
 
88 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 was extended on both sides of the 
 room which was very large, the doors 
 of the library were wired, with blue 
 silk curtains festooned above. The 
 furniture of the room was plain dim- 
 ity with chintz border; two sophas, 
 with several tables standing in differ- 
 ent parts of the room with pen, ink, 
 paintings &c. ; the drawing-room fur- 
 niture was striped blue satin, with a 
 sopha at one end and a large Organ at 
 the other . . . the floors were all oak 
 and rubb'd with silver sand. I never 
 was more gratified in my life. . . . 
 September 13. The day was remark- 
 ably fine, and we determined to make 
 our long intended visit to Richmond, 
 we set off about ten o'clock, and had 
 just got there and were walking on 
 the side of the Thames, when, to our 
 great surprise, the Dr. and Bell were 
 close behind us; this was an agree- 
 able addition to our party; we had 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 89 
 
 a charming walk and crossed over 
 the river to Twickenham where we 
 went to see Pope's gardens and his 
 Cave of which I have heard so 
 much. This is a place built under 
 ground, supposed to be intended for 
 his study; on one side of the Cave 
 is a large bath, and on the other his 
 study, with one small window, a stand, 
 one Chair, and a kind of Couch, with 
 mattress and pillows round it. It is 
 built of variegated stone so strongly 
 connected together, that it seems 
 like one solid rock. After this we 
 walked through the gardens which 
 are beautiful ; at one end, in a retired 
 place, on an eminence, is a monu- 
 ment erected to the memory of his 
 Mother, on which is inscribed, . . . 
 "Ah! Edellia, best of Mothers and 
 most beloved of Women; farewell" 
 October 28. We were received at 
 Mr. Gordon's with every mark of af- 
 
90 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 faction and attention; I promise my- 
 self much more pleasure on this visit 
 than the one to Miss Dancer; tho' 
 they were very polite, still it ap- 
 peared to be because they thought 
 themselves obliged to be so in their 
 own house; Miss Dancer is by no 
 means an agreeable woman, is much 
 of an old Maid, affects to be very 
 nervous and delicate and I really 
 think, if any of our sex is ever hon- 
 our'd with a sight of his Old Majesty, 
 she may be. The Races diverted me 
 exceedingly; the number that were 
 present is incredible. The life I now 
 lead reminds me so much of my good 
 Uncle Boudinot's family, that I sup- 
 pose myself there, surrounded by those 
 many and dear friends, who used to 
 join us in this delightful exercise ; we 
 now lie down as we rise up, implor- 
 ing the blessing of divine Providence. 
 I have neglected mentioning our visit 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 9! 
 
 to Lord Exeter's seat near Stanford, 
 this is superb indeed ; I do not think 
 it possible we shall see anything su- 
 perior in England; the showing it is 
 five shillings; and it is well worth 
 this. The Chapel adjoining their house 
 is large enough for two or three hun- 
 dred people, and the paintings are 
 very fine, but those in the other rooms 
 are superior; there is one of our Sa- 
 viour with the bread and wine that 
 I thought remarkable, and the Girl 
 told us that her master had refused 
 three thousand pounds for it, and an- 
 other, which he brought over from 
 Italy, cost fifteen hundred guineas. 
 The two last rooms we were shown 
 represented one Heaven and the other 
 Hell, but one of the greatest curiosities 
 is a bed which Queen Elizabeth used 
 to sleep in, when on her annual visit 
 to this place; it was made of green 
 satin embroidered with gold & sil- 
 
92 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 ver, and lin'd with yellow satin. 
 There were several velvet & satin 
 beds, tho' not so old as this; we were 
 shown thirty rooms with the napery, 
 and hall ; and, tho' we merely looked 
 at the pictures, were two hours going 
 through them. Tho' 1 was highly 
 gratified, still I could not help regret- 
 ting that so much money was thrown 
 away in idle show, the interest of 
 which would have gladdened the 
 hearts of so many poor distress'd crea- 
 tures; in the dining room were sev- 
 eral Gold plates and dishes, and, on 
 the floor, a long cooler weighing three 
 thousand pounds. The entrance to 
 the house is very fine, and you would 
 think you were approaching some 
 town or public building; there is a 
 beautiful made river passing through 
 the grounds, with several handsome 
 bridges, a great many deer and hare, 
 and all together, it surpasses any- 
 thing we ever saw. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 93 
 
 October 7. This day we got safely 
 home and spent the evening at Mr. 
 Vandam's ; as we were much fatigued, 
 I left them early and was rejoiced at 
 finding in the parlour several letters 
 from home, among which was one 
 from Mr. A. Bayard; but oh! such 
 a shock as I received on looking over 
 Mr. Bayard's shoulder, as I never ex- 
 perienced before in my life . . . the 
 sudden death of our beloved Mr. Brad- 
 ford, that life dear to so many . . . 
 and so highly valued by all ; how little 
 did I think we gave him a last fare- 
 well; but my poor Cousin, said I, 
 what must her heart endure at this 
 trying, this distracted moment, nurst 
 in the arms of affection and tenderness, 
 she has never felt the hand of affliction, 
 but in sympathy for others, grief was 
 a stranger to their dwelling, nought 
 but affection, genuine and sincere, 
 hospitality, with every virtue which 
 renders life an enjoyment, resided 
 
94 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 here but Alas! what are all these 
 possessions, how suddenly does one 
 stroke disappoint our hopes and blast 
 every earthly comfort ; honours, talent, 
 wealth and every virtue availeth but 
 little, when the voice of God calls us 
 to the great tribunal what then is 
 life that we should be so desirous of 
 it; but a few years, and the longest 
 days that are appointed for man are 
 gone. . . . May that God who never 
 afflicts but in mercy, sanctify this 
 heavy stroke to us, may it teach us 
 not to set too high a value on any 
 attainment in this world, but enjoy 
 everything with moderation, and sub- 
 mission to his will; and while we 
 weep at the grave of so beloved a 
 friend, and lament his irreparable 
 loss may we fix our only hope on 
 that rock which never faileth. I never 
 felt so much in my life, and I know 
 not when I can cease to feel such 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 95 
 
 a loss. ... I shall never be happy 
 till I get home to mingle my tears 
 with my dear Susan and strive to 
 soothe her grief by affection and sym- 
 pathy; I shall go in no company, I 
 cannot enjoy any thing while my 
 friend is in such affliction; may a 
 kind Providence support her. 
 
 November 5. This morning Dot 
 Fisher call'd to take his leave; he is 
 just setting off for America ; I cannot 
 describe my feelings on seeing him; 
 the Idea of his so soon embracing the 
 friends I love, living so near them 
 and enjoying their conversation, af- 
 fected me so much that I could scarcely 
 speak; oh! that I could go with you, 
 said I; gladly would I risk the tem- 
 pestuous ocean at this season, rather 
 than be deprived of the society of 
 those friends so deservedly dear ; but 
 it is ordered otherwise, and I must 
 endeavor to be contented. 
 
96 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 7. ... We have spent a charm- 
 ing day with Mrs. Nicholl; she is a 
 sweet woman indeed ; she has more 
 ease and less ceremony than any per- 
 son I have met in England; we have 
 another invitation to spend some time 
 with them this summer, and I am 
 delighted with it, as I know I shall 
 pass my time so agreeably; she has 
 two sweet Children and manages 
 them after my system, which I was 
 so much blamed for at home; but 
 these are a proof that gentleness is 
 by far the best, with reasonable tem- 
 pers. 
 
 November 9, 1795- This day year 
 we took leave of our native Country, 
 that Country which will ever be dear 
 to my heart, as it contains the friends 
 whom I love with so much tender- 
 ness; and, tho' I am enjoying every 
 comfort, and am surrounded on every 
 side with the smiles of prosperity, 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 97 
 
 still my mind dwells with a melan- 
 choly satisfaction on those days when 
 the society of my friends made up for 
 the want of that affluence I now have 
 in prospect, and I regret that in the 
 possession of one I am obliged to re- 
 linquish the other; but Alas! how 
 checkered are all the enjoyments of 
 this life, how changeable and uncer- 
 tain; what we possess one moment, 
 we are call'd upon to give up another, 
 and, tho' the society of my friends is 
 taken from me, still I have many, 
 very many mercies to be thankful for; 
 while so many of my friends are 
 mourning the loss of near and dear 
 connections, the tender names of Hus- 
 band, Child, and Parents are still 
 granted to me; Merciful Father, let 
 me not be ungrateful, let me not so 
 much repine at a separation which thy 
 Providence has ordained, but let my 
 lips and my heart praise thee, that, in 
 
98 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 this land of strangers, I have still a 
 God, who is the same all over the 
 world. 
 
 This has been a delightful day and 
 we went to see the Lord Mayor 
 parade through the streets in state; 
 the view we had of him from Black- 
 friars bridge was beautiful ; there were 
 several barges that accompanied him, 
 very handsomely ornamented, and the 
 whole river was covered with boats. 
 After seeing this parade we went 
 round to Mr. Townley, that we might 
 see him in his state Coach; the 
 crowd was immense on both sides of 
 them; their Carriages were elegant, 
 and the equipage superb; the tassels 
 on the horse's heads are said to have 
 cost twenty-five guineas ; the former 
 Mayor was a great favourite among 
 the people, and, as he pass'd, they 
 stopp'd the horses, and drew his 
 Carriage themselves, as the greatest 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 99 
 
 mark of their respect and affection 
 this to a feeling heart, who was confi- 
 dent of deserving it, must be highly 
 gratifying, and must have given rise 
 to emotions which none but good and 
 great men can know. . . . 
 
 December 25. Alas ! what a Christ- 
 mas have I passed this year; how un- 
 like those when 1 was surrounded by 
 all I lov'd. This reflection, with the 
 Idea of what my friends must feel at 
 the return of a season when naught 
 but mirth and gladness used to fill 
 every breast, affects my mind with the 
 most gloomy sensations. What a 
 day must this be to them ; how must 
 their hearts bleed at the recollection 
 of the season pass'd with him so be- 
 loved and so highly valued. Methinks 
 they are ever tracing back those days 
 of former happiness, and regretting 
 they valued or improved them so 
 little ; how few of us are there who, 
 
IOO THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 in the possession of any blessing, 
 know how to value it sufficiently, till, 
 by the hand of death, it is snatched 
 from us ; what havock has this cruel 
 tyrant made in our family this last 
 year. Alas ! the afflicted Widows and 
 Children best can feel; their hearts 
 have been pierced with the deepest 
 wound. 
 
 January 14. Day after day passes, 
 and still my mind remains in the same 
 dejected state it was the first week 
 I heard the melancholy news from 
 home. Alas! when will it be other- 
 wise. I am constantly thinking of 
 home. I go into no company, and, 
 even in the society of my most inti- 
 mate friends, my thoughts wander and 
 my spirits sink ; I fear much that it 
 will affect my health, and that I shall 
 never meet my beloved friends on this 
 side the grave. 
 
 February //. This day my heart 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD IOI 
 
 is awake to every sentiment of grati- 
 tude and affection ; it is the day which 
 gave birth to my beloved Husband; 
 and, while many of my friends are 
 weeping over the ashes of their Hus- 
 bands, I am still enjoying the most 
 tender connections o? F^tiat , :and 
 Child ; merciful Fath^>, make , iw , 
 thankful for these inesfin^W^blfes^ 
 ings. 
 
 March 25, 7796. As we have 
 passed a very gloomy winter, through 
 the persuasion of Doct. Romayne and 
 Bell Vandam, we have consented to 
 accompany them to Bath, and shall 
 set out tomorrow; I am pleased with 
 the jaunt only that it will oblige me 
 to be so long absent from my little 
 boy; however, I leave him in good 
 hands, and Aunt Kitty has promised 
 to see him every day. I will en- 
 deavour not to be too anxious. 
 
IO2 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 Letter to Mrs. Boudinot. 
 
 London, April 8. Returned from 
 a most agreeable jaunt to Bath and 
 Bristol, my first moments are devoted 
 to my beloved Aunt and Cousin. 
 Every enjoyment I have here, in this 
 way, is always highten'd by the Idea 
 of describing it to them ; particularly 
 when it is of that nature that I am 
 sure it will amuse their minds and 
 gratify their affection ; the latter effect 
 it will have, when I tell them that my 
 health is so improved. From my 
 want of spirits and confining myself 
 so much to the house this winter 1 
 lost my appetite and was quite indis- 
 posed . . . but the exercise and the 
 waters have been of service to me. 
 I tried the bath, one morning, and 
 found it charming, tho' rather debili- 
 tated; believe me, while in it, I 
 thought of my Dr. Aunt's old back, 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 1 03 
 
 and wished sincerely that she could 
 enjoy it. We accompanied Dr. Ro- 
 Tnayne there, and, from traveling in a 
 private Carriage, we had the first at- 
 tendance on the road. We approached 
 Bath road, by the silver Avon, for 
 several miles. This river, so much 
 celebrated in Poetry, like the Thames, 
 is not wider than the brook in your 
 meadow after a small freshet, but 
 winds with great beauty, through a 
 most delightful and highly cultivated 
 Country. The City is very handsome, 
 tho' not large; we spent three days 
 there, and then had a charming ride 
 to Bristol, through the richest Scenes 
 of nature you can conceive. This 
 City is very inferior, but remarkable 
 for several very fine buildings ; among 
 the first of these is the Cathedral; in 
 this we saw several very fine monu- 
 ments, and one of Sterne's Eliza 
 which was very beautiful, and, as 
 
104 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 nearly as I can recollect, was two fe- 
 male figures, in white marble, sup- 
 porting an Urn; one representing 
 genius, with her right hand on her 
 breast, and in the other the trumpet 
 of fame ; the opposite figure repre- 
 sents benevolence, holding in her left 
 hand a nest in which a pelican is 
 nourishing her young with her blood, 
 and the other hand points to this in- 
 scription : " Sacred to the memory of 
 Mrs. E. Drapen in whom Genius & 
 benevolence were united." We spent 
 one day at Bristol, and proceeded on 
 our Tour to Oxford; here we saw 
 what my pen is not equal to describe. 
 I must refer you to Mr. Bayard's jour- 
 nal to Miss Bradford, which he will 
 send as soon as he has leisure . . . 
 he has too much writing for any one 
 person to do with safety. I am afraid 
 it will injure him. You will recollect, 
 my Aunt, that this is Intended only for 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD IOJ 
 
 you and my Cousin's eyes. If it serves 
 to enliven her mind, for a moment, 
 I shall be gratified my tender and 
 most affectionate love to her; say that 
 I still hope daily to hear from her; my 
 Uncle shares, as a Parent, my gratitude 
 & affection ; his last letter almost kill'd 
 us, still we look anxiously for another 
 . . . my good friends R. and H. share 
 in my remembrance, and believe me, 
 my beloved Aunt & Cousin, your very 
 affectionate and ever grateful. P. B. 
 I had liked to forgot telling you that 
 the paper on which I am writing is 
 what they call embellished paper, for 
 the nobility and great folks. I shall 
 direct this letter in the tip of the mode 
 for you, as I have seen several lately. 1 
 
 1 The large square letter-sheet which was then 
 " the tip of the mode" for ladies, is embossed on 
 the first page with a wide border at the top, in 
 which are two medallioned heads ; and along the 
 sides and at the bottom, with a border of geomet- 
 rical design inclosing Latin mottoes. 
 

 106 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 We have just returned from our 
 jaunt, and found our dear boy quite 
 well, and rejoiced to meet us again. 
 I really think I shall not, in a great 
 while, leave him so long; it mars all 
 the pleasure of a jaunt tho' this has 
 been a very agreeable one to us all. 
 We traveled slowly, lived well, but 
 not extravagantly. About half a mile 
 before we got in Bath we rode by the 
 sweet "silver Avon" till we entered 
 the City; we went to the famous 
 White-Heart Inn, and were very well 
 accommodated ; our dinners were al- 
 ways served up on silver dishes with 
 covers, and extremely well dressed ; 
 after dinner we took a walk on the 
 parade, but saw very little company ; 
 the next morning we went to see the 
 assembly room, which is elegant in- 
 deed, and Pultney street far surpasses 
 any in London, the Circuits and Cres- 
 cents are beautiful; in the evening 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 1 07 
 
 Miss Wallace was to perform in the 
 Sultana, and we determined to go and 
 see her, & were highly entertained; 
 she is certainly an excellent actress. 
 The next morning I got up and went 
 into the warm bath ; the Inn was close 
 by, and I was charmed with it; 
 wished for Papa and Aunt Boudinot; 
 I had been afflicted with a most violent 
 cold for several months, and I really 
 found great relief while in the bath, 
 but was quite exhausted when I came 
 out; as it was very early I went to 
 bed and never slept sounder, for two 
 hours ; my health has evidently been 
 better since, and I am greatly indebted 
 to the bath for it; the next day we 
 proceeded to Bristol, but were not so 
 much pleased as with Bath; it is a 
 confined, dirty place, but the Country 
 round it is very fine ; the water there 
 I thought had no peculiar taste; we 
 drank a little and were contented. 
 
1O8 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 On our return home we found our 
 dear little boy had been very sick, as 
 well as Mrs. Bowen; this made me 
 determine never to leave him again so 
 long. Good Aunt Kitty had been very 
 kind, as she always is ; I really do not 
 know what I should do if it was not 
 for her. . . . 
 
 April. The fineness of the day in- 
 duced us to take a walk this morning, 
 and, as Mr. Dancer had frequently ex- 
 pressed a wish to go with us to the 
 exhibition, we sent for him, and all 
 went together; it is certainly a very 
 elegant place, and we spent two hours 
 there very agreeably, tho' there are 
 many who spend eight hours there. 
 
 June, 1796. Never was I more sur- 
 prised in all my life than this morning 
 on hearing of Bell Vandam's marriage, 
 & to a person who I have scarce ever 
 seen there. It is a little extraordinary, 
 that, tho' I am with her almost every 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 109 
 
 day, I should never have suspected an 
 attachment. It must be a very sudden 
 affair; the poor Doctor [Romayne] 
 will be astonished and mortified ; for 
 I really believe he has the vanity to 
 think he can do anything with her; 
 and I sincerely hope he may be dis- 
 appointed, which no doubt he will be, 
 when he finds she is another's. . . 
 
 We have just returned from a very 
 pleasant jaunt to Windsor, where we 
 had the honour of seeing their Majes- 
 ties, and walking on the terrace with 
 them. The Parade & show that is 
 made with them is truly ridiculous, 
 and, to an American, particularly so ; 
 one would really suppose he was 
 something more than human, to see 
 the crowds that run to see him ; they 
 certainly are a fine looking family, and 
 were they all as virtuous and amiable 
 as the King and Queen are in their 
 private characters, their example might 
 
IIO THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 be some advantage to society; but 
 unfortunately all the elder Sons are 
 most abandon'd Men. What has a 
 nation to expect when the present 
 King dies ; what can be looked for in 
 a Man in publick life when his private 
 character is so abandon'd to every 
 vice of the lowest nature ; how often 
 in passing the Prince of Wales's house, 
 and observing the vast parade and ex- 
 pense that surround him, do I regret 
 that a Man so looked up to, and in so 
 conspicuous a place, should not have 
 one virtue for the gazing world to 
 imitate; how grateful am I that I am 
 not a Prince, on such terms. 
 
 We are again fixed in our own lit- 
 tle habitation and enjoy all that do- 
 mestic quiet which the gay world in 
 general are such strangers to; how 
 little indeed do they know of the real 
 pleasures of life, who murder their 
 time in dissipation and folly ; the ten- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD III 
 
 der relation of Husband, and the indul- 
 gence of Maternal affection, are noble 
 and delightful sentiments of which 
 they are robb'd sentiments which 
 are not only productive of purest joy 
 but such as will fit us for that world, 
 where we are all to live as brethren 
 of one family. . . . 
 
 Returned from a jaunt to Dr. Nich- 
 oll's; I feel much enlivened by the 
 ride, and highly pleased with my visit; 
 they are so polite, and yet so uncere- 
 monious, that you cannot help feeling 
 perfectly at home with them. We 
 met there D r . and Mrs. Snaby; the 
 latter I was much pleased with, but 
 D r . Snaby's appearance is very much 
 against him ; they insist upon our pay- 
 ing them a visit, this day fortnight, 
 and taking our little boy with us ; he 
 has enjoy'd this jaunt so much and 
 behaved so well that I think, for his 
 sake, we must go. ... 
 
I 12 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. W. Pinkney are at 
 length arrived, and I trust they will 
 soon get to business . . . they are 
 all very good looking people, and do 
 not I think shame their country. To- 
 morrow we are all to meet at Mr. 
 Bird's; I never feel so much at home 
 as when I am in company with Mrs. 
 King ; she is really a sweet, agreeable 
 woman, and seems disposed to be 
 very sociable; we shall I hope pass 
 many evenings together, this winter. 
 As Mr. Pinkney has taken a house 
 near us, I expect much pleasure from 
 their society. I am really delighted 
 with Mrs. Snaby; we have spent four 
 days there most agreeably, and I left 
 her with much regret; they do not 
 live so elegantly as Dr. Nicholl, but 
 there is so much generosity and real 
 goodness of heart in everything she 
 says and does, that, in knowing, you 
 cannot help loving her. They have a 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 113 
 
 family of five children, who are all 
 kept in better order, without any ap- 
 pearance of authority, than any family 
 I was ever in in short, were I to live 
 long near Mrs. Snaby, I should love 
 her as a near relative. 
 
 Augwt 75, 7796. Never since my 
 connection with my beloved Mr. Bay- 
 ard have I spent this day with so little 
 satisfaction ; it has even reached the 
 most pleasing sensation of affection 
 and gratitude my heart is susceptible 
 of; but Alas! now it serves only to 
 remind me, in contemplating my own 
 happiness, that which my darling 
 Cousin was, this time last year, robb'd 
 of what must her mind endure at 
 this time, if I feel so much. Never 
 that I know of has my mind been so 
 much depressed. I was on the bed 
 almost all day; my poor back I fear 
 will cause me much trouble; I shall 
 never get over my fall at Rose-Hill, I 
 
114 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 am afraid. Mrs. Marshall came in the 
 afternoon and took tea with me in my 
 chamber, and good Aunt Kitty join'd 
 us ; this enlivened me a little, and I 
 trust 1 shall soon be better. 
 
 September 18. I bless God that I 
 have again returned home in better 
 health and spirits than 1 have been for 
 some time past; 1 am rejoiced we took 
 the Doctor's advice and went to Rams- 
 gate, I never received more benefit 
 from any jaunt in my life ; I now have 
 some hopes of getting through my 
 troubles in safety, and, should the life 
 of my dear little one be spared to me, 
 I can never cease being grateful. 
 
 We have spent a very pleasant fort- 
 night indeed at Mrs. Townley's, tho' 
 the family is conducted with so little 
 order that it renders everything less 
 agreeable, than it would otherwise be. 
 While there we had several charming 
 parties, and, among the most agree- 
 able, was that to Dandelion, to the 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD I I 5 
 
 public breakfast; it was in such a 
 simple rural style, that I was very 
 much pleased with it, and think such 
 an amusement would take very much 
 in America, by having it in the after- 
 noon instead of the morning. It is a 
 very pretty place and the garden in 
 which we ate breakfast was a beauti- 
 ful square of green ; on one side were 
 the tables, and on the other a large 
 floor for dancing, but it seems that it 
 is not the fashion, this year, for gen- 
 teel people to dance, and there are 
 only the country girls who exhibit; 
 last year a Lord's daughter led the first 
 dance, and it became, from that, so 
 much the ton that no person went 
 without dancing ; such slaves are the 
 people of this country to fashion and 
 the opinion of the world ; 1 would not 
 all my life be obliged to live here for 
 anything whatever; I pant for the 
 simple enjoyment of dear America. 
 While at Ramsgate 1 made a very 
 
Il6 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 pleasant acquaintance with a Mrs. 
 Wolf, who was on a visit to Mrs. 
 Townley; she is a sweet, pretty, agree- 
 able woman, but has all the gaiety 
 and folly of a fashionable woman ; she 
 paints constantly, and does not wish 
 to conceal it. 
 
 After leaving Ramsgate we had a 
 delightful ride home and found our 
 house in perfect order; Mouton had 
 cleaned it from the top to the bottom. 
 1 cannot say but I was glad at getting 
 home, tho' I spent my time so agree- 
 ably. I trust the next jaunt I take 
 that way, will be to embark for Amer- 
 ica; I cannot be perfectly happy till 
 I reach those peaceful shores how I 
 am transported when I think of meet- 
 ing my beloved friends again ; Heaven 
 protect and keep us all till that happy 
 period ; and I think no earthly thing 
 shall ever tempt me to leave them 
 again. 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD I 17 
 
 October. I have been much fatigued 
 this day or two, wishing to see all 
 my American friends. I have excited 
 myself almost too much ; yesterday, 
 Mrs. King and the Commissioners, 
 with their ladies, djned with us, & 
 we spent a very agreeable day ; sur- 
 rounded by so many Americans I felt 
 myself almost at home. I anticipate 
 much pleasure this winter with them. 
 
 March 25, 7797. 
 
 When all thy mercies, oh my God, 
 
 My rising soul surveys, 
 Transported with the view I 'm lost 
 
 In wonder, love, and praise. 
 
 Rising from the bed of sickness my 
 heart is fill'd with every emotion of 
 love and gratitude to that kind Provi- 
 dence who has raised me almost from 
 the grave, when all earthly power was 
 thought ineffectual. Blessed be God 
 for the life which was given, and that 
 
I I 8 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 which was spared, oh may they both 
 be devoted to thee. 
 
 It is now near nine weeks since my 
 fever left me, and I am not able to 
 walk alone shall I ever again have 
 the use of my limbs ? 
 
 April 3. Mrs. Pinkney call'd upon 
 me this morning, and took me a short 
 ride ; I bore it much better than I ex- 
 pected, felt a little giddy, but am much 
 better since I laid down. I fondly 
 flatter myself that I shall yet live to 
 see my friends; how trifling does 
 everything now appear but the pure 
 and rational enjoyment of friendship 
 and affection. 
 
 May 7. Oh that the solemnities of 
 this day may be remembered through 
 the remainder of our lives, and while 
 we thus publicly devote ourselves to 
 our God may we recollect that our 
 whole private conduct must corre- 
 spond with our more public engage- 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 119 
 
 ments, and, tho' we may partake still 
 of those amusements which some 
 may call the follies of life, may our 
 great object be to do the will of our 
 heavenly Father, resigning all that we 
 have or wish for in his hands ; how 
 truly happy must that person be who 
 can say, in every situation or change 
 in life, " Lord not as 1 will but thy 
 will be done." . . . 
 
 June 75. This day passed very 
 agreeably at Mrs. Bird's, with Mr. & 
 Mrs. Pinkney, & Mr. and Mrs. Lenox; 
 we took a Coach together, and were 
 much gratified in the pleasure of ask- 
 ing many questions about our friends ; 
 on our way we went to see the Seat 
 of Lord Finley, the heir of which is 
 but three years old; it is a superb 
 place indeed; the house and fixtures 
 are said to have cost three hundred 
 thousand pounds; the velvet curtain 
 in the drawing room was twenty five 
 
I2O THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 guineas a yard ; the room was hung 
 all round with the same, with a broad 
 panel of gold around it ; the grounds 
 are said to be very fine, but were too 
 damp to walk much on them. 
 
 July /p. We have at length deter- 
 mined to go out of town, and have 
 been very fortunate in getting such 
 good lodgings ; our dear little one has 
 taken the whooping cough; I fear. I 
 dread the consequence, but trust in a 
 kind Providence. He grows a sweet 
 babe, & I hope will be spared to me. 
 
 August 5. Three weeks have now 
 elapsed since we came here ; we have 
 passed our time so agreeably that I 
 am almost induced to stay another 
 week; but I am told it begins to be 
 very sickly. The little Child James 
 has got the dysentery very bad, and I 
 fear mine will get it ; yesterday I went 
 to see the Nuns they are of the 
 order of Benedict, and made their 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 121 
 
 escape from France with their lives 
 only; they appear to be perfectly 
 happy, and say that they would not 
 change situation with any person in 
 the world ; their dress is very curious, 
 but their manners perfectly free and 
 agreeable; they show many pieces of 
 work, which every one who goes to 
 see them makes it a point to purchase 
 they were delighted with Lewis 
 speaking French. 
 
 August 16. This day we came to 
 Town in hopes the change of air 
 would do our dear little one some 
 good; but I think he has coughed 
 much more last night than ever. I 
 have always dreaded this very much. 
 
 Alas ! my darling has been very ill ; 
 I wish we had stayed out at Hammer- 
 smith. I fear we are doom'd to have 
 an only Child ; but I must leave all to a 
 merciful Providence, tho' I cannot help 
 feeling very anxious ; he looks so ill. 
 
122 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 September 10. Oh cruel recollec- 
 tion ! this day my beloved Child would 
 have been nine months old, the age 
 that I fondly flattered myself he would 
 have run alone but alas! how often 
 does a mysterious Providence cut off 
 our hopes and blast our most favorite 
 plans; he was a promising child as 
 ever lived ; but hard as the trial was, 
 last Saturday he was committed to the 
 silent grave; Sunday I thought him 
 quite well, but Monday morning I per- 
 ceived a change for the worse, and 
 Tuesday evening he rejected all food, 
 and I had no hope. Good little Aunt 
 Kitty was with me all night, and, at 
 four in the morning, the dear little 
 lamb breathed his last. At this ago- 
 nizing moment, after the first shock 
 was over, 1 consoled myself with the 
 hope that the spirit of my beloved 
 Mother had received the little inno- 
 cent, and was hovering round the 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 123 
 
 cradle at the same moment, that I was 
 hanging o'er the remains of my Dar- 
 ling; it was a most consolatory Idea, 
 and could I have realized it, I think I 
 should have been happy; this is the 
 third child that I trust is enjoying the 
 blessings of a future state with her, 
 and are realizing the dream I had at 
 Elizabeth-Town. . . . 
 
 September 20. This evening we 
 reached good Doct. Gordon's, were 
 received with great kindness. After 
 enquiring after my health in general, 
 Mrs. Gordon said God has mingled 
 judgments with mercies my D r . Mrs. 
 Bayard, and I trust we shall be 
 properly impressed with both; the 
 good old lady said all she could to 
 console, and, after prayers in the 
 evening, I felt more composed than 
 usual. . . . 
 
 22. This morning we took leave 
 of Doctor and Mrs. Gordon, and pro- 
 
124 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 ceeded on our journey, it was a re- 
 markably fine day, and we had a very 
 pleasant ride. I should have enjoyed 
 it very much, had not my mind been 
 so much depressed; I cannot help 
 regretting that we did not take the 
 journey sooner, perhaps I say it might 
 have been of service to my little dar- 
 ling, but alas! it is too late; he is 
 taken from me, and sheltered from all 
 the ills of life. . . . 
 
 We reached Market-Harborough, 
 about seven ; took our tea and retired, 
 but had a wretched night, the worst bed 
 in England, at the " Three Crowns." 
 The next morning, another fine day, 
 we reached Leicester, about noon; 
 walked through the markets, found 
 them well fill'd with everything good ; 
 but the mutton and lamb remarkably 
 fine; return'd to the inn and order' d 
 lamb chops, but they had not any in 
 the house ; we enquired if there were 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 125 
 
 any curiosities to be seen, and were 
 directed to a Miss Linwood's, where 
 we were more highly gratified than 
 I can express ; her work is on canvas 
 with worsted, the size of life, and sur- 
 passes any painting I ever saw; she 
 says she has been eleven years mak- 
 ing the pieces, and, next winter, means 
 to exhibit them in London, & no 
 doubt will make a fortune. . . . 
 
 Saturday night, slept at Loughbor- 
 ough, and went to meeting in the morn- 
 ing; a tolerable discourse, and set out, 
 immediately after service, in hopes of 
 reaching Nottingham in time for the 
 afternoon services, but were disap- 
 pointed ; went in the evening in search 
 of a meeting and got into as ranting a 
 Methodist as I ever heard. The next 
 morning we arose and set out with 
 a Mr. Stathor (whom we had a letter 
 to) to look at the manufactory; the 
 first he showed us was spooling the 
 
126 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 silk, at which twelve hundred Chil- 
 dren were employ'd after this, in an- 
 other place, we saw the weaving, and 
 in every state ; the silk, just as it comes 
 from China, is perfectly white, and that 
 from Bengal is a bright yellow; we 
 then looked at the different kinds of 
 stockings and pick'd out what we 
 wanted . . . the patternet work is 
 very curious ; the lace is all worked in 
 frames with a needle, and afterwards 
 cut in strips ; the patterns for Cloaks 
 are done in the same way. . . . 
 
 After this we went up to look at 
 the Castle, which belongs to the Duke 
 of Portland, tho* he has not lived there 
 these seven years; the house com- 
 mands a very extensive and beautiful 
 prospect, but the inside of it is not 
 worth looking at, after what we have 
 seen before; the Castle stands on a 
 rock, through which is a hole hewn 
 down to the bottom, which is called 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 127 
 
 Motine hole ; but is generally supposed 
 to have been hewn out of this rock 
 by the ancient Britons, before the land- 
 ing of the Romans ; after viewing this 
 we returned to Mr. Stathor's and par- 
 took of a family dinner, and proceeded 
 on to Derby. I trust we shall sleep 
 better than we did last night, tho' the 
 bed does not look as well as I could 
 wish ; the landlady is very fat and very 
 civil, we have had a good dish of tea, 
 and are now about retiring. 
 
 Tuesday. We had a much better 
 night than I expected, and, thanks to 
 a kind Providence, we are all well this 
 morning after breakfast, we set out 
 for Derby, & were engaged all day in 
 looking about the Town, at the dif- 
 ferent manufactories; the Derbyshire 
 spar was the first that drew our at- 
 tention, we priced many things and 
 found them quite as high as in Lon- 
 don; the person who sold them was 
 
128 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 very civil, and took us to see the peo- 
 ple at work ; there we saw the spar 
 as it is dug first out of the ground, 
 and, in another room, where they 
 were making it up, this was highly 
 gratifying; we bought a few things 
 merely to pay the Man for the trouble, 
 and then went on to the great China 
 manufactory, and saw the whole pro- 
 cess of making everything in that way ; 
 on our way to that we stopp'd and 
 looked at the silk machinery, which 
 was on a larger scale than I had ever 
 seen; five hundred hands were en- 
 gaged in attendance, and three hun- 
 dred Children employed, who earn 
 every day from six to ten pence a 
 day ; delightful sight this was to see 
 so manylittlelcreatures taught, so early, 
 to earn their bread in an honest & 
 industrious manner. ... In the 
 afternoon we went on to Matlock, 
 but on the road stopp'd to see Lord 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 129 
 
 Scarsdale's. We entered it through 
 the lodge, which was very fine; but 
 the house did not appear so grand as 
 many we had seen, but, to our great 
 surprise, it far surpassed everything 
 the lower entrance into the servants' 
 hall, which is as large as the whole 
 of any house in America, was fine; 
 but from this we were introduced 
 into the grandest apartment I ever 
 saw, which she call'd the Hall ; it was 
 an amazing large room, the whole 
 width of the house, and communicated 
 with each corner ; about two or three 
 feet all round, the Hall was supported 
 by twenty grand Pillars of Derbyshire 
 spar, fluted; the ceiling & walls 
 were ornamented with medallions rep- 
 resenting different things, and an ele- 
 gant sky-light in the middle showed 
 every painting to the best advantage ; 
 from this we were led into the music 
 room, at one end of which was an 
 
I 30 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 elegant organ, and at the other a 
 grand piano, and several Italian pic- 
 tures; but in the next room, which 
 was the drawing-room, the paintings 
 were very elegant, the furniture blue 
 silk damask and the chairs white & 
 Gold, grand sophas, the arms of 
 which were supported by Sphynxes 
 highly gilt; from this we went into 
 the library which was far inferior to 
 several we had seen, but the saloon 
 surpassed any room for novelty and 
 elegance that can be conceived; it is 
 a large octagon room, with a sky- 
 light, the ceiling of which was made 
 with white stucco gilt, in the form 
 of roses ; this was elegantly adorned 
 with medallions, the furniture white 
 & gold, with eight sophas, this ap- 
 pears to have been the centre of the 
 house, as a door opened in almost 
 every octagon; from this we were 
 introduced in my Lady's bed-chamber 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 13! 
 
 & dressing-room ; the bed was blue, 
 with gold fringe and the spread of 
 the same, the bedstead was mahogany, 
 the posts highly gilt in flowers, very 
 thick and tapering to the top; there 
 were two dressing-rooms joining, one 
 for the Lady and the other for the 
 gentleman the ornaments on the 
 toilet were all solid gold ; . . . from 
 this we went into the dining-room, 
 where was an elegant side-board of 
 Plate, with several other ornaments; 
 before the fire stood a plate- warmer, in 
 the form of an urn, made of copper, 
 but so highly gilt that it had a su- 
 perb appearance ; she led us through 
 many other apartments too tedious 
 to mention, but, in all the building, 
 she told us there were seventy-four 
 rooms, thirty six in the centre, and 
 forty two in the two pavilions. We 
 paid the old Lady her crown, and 
 came away highly gratified, the house 
 
132 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 is about half a mile from the road, the 
 grounds well cultivated, but nothing 
 more, many deer and sheep grazing, 
 and a pretty fall of water in view of 
 the house, from which runs a clear 
 stream through all the grounds. The 
 owner of this place must have forty 
 or fifty thousand per annum to sup- 
 port this style ; happy indeed would 
 he be did he know how to lay it out 
 to some better purpose. 
 
 We reached Matlock about five 
 o'clock in the afternoon, where the 
 Ladies were all assembled in a long 
 room, where they generally drink tea. 
 I felt a little awkward at first, going 
 in after traveling all day and seeing 
 above twenty Ladies very smartly 
 dress'd, and no person to receive me 
 in particular; however I took a seat 
 and soon got into conversation; in 
 about an hour tea was call'd for and 
 I soon found each party had their own 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 133 
 
 table ; I then turned to the lady who 
 sat next me and asked her if she 
 would allow us to join her party, 
 which she very politely assented to, 
 and we were very sociable the rest of 
 the evening; after tea the gentlemen 
 and Ladies all went to Cards; they 
 were polite enough to ask me, but 
 1 declined; they play'd about two 
 hours, and at nine were call'd to sup- 
 per; and a very neat, genteel supper 
 it was, a variety of everything that 
 was good, and this all with atten- 
 dance and music for a shilling they 
 pay every meal ; after supper they pro- 
 posed dancing, and danced, I am told, 
 till near one, as I left them before they 
 began. . . . 
 
 The next morning we came down 
 about nine, and found them eating 
 breakfast, in the same small parties 
 that they drank tea; I call'd for coffee 
 for three, and we made a comfortable 
 
134 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 meal; after this we walked out, and 
 found it one of the most romantic 
 places we had seen in England; we 
 call'd at several shops of the spar 
 and priced it. I bought several little 
 things, and took a ride; returned to 
 dinner, and then set out on our way 
 to Sheffield. We reached Bakewell 
 about seven ; here we had a very bad 
 night, but excellent fare in the morn- 
 ing; we went to look at Mr. Watson's 
 collections of natural curiosities ; we 
 had a very tedious ride to Sheffield, 
 over high hills and bad roads, but we 
 got there in time for a good dinner. 
 After dinner we went over to Rother- 
 ham, to see Mr. Walker's famous iron 
 works, which are carried on to a great 
 extent. This gentleman was good 
 enough to go over all the works with 
 us, and said himself that he employ'd 
 six hundred men constantly. After 
 going through all the great works, he 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 135 
 
 show'd us into the place where they 
 were tinning the large sheets of iron 
 which we had seen them roll, and I 
 was much surprised, on enquiring, 
 that the block tin, that 1 thought was 
 always solid, was only put in the tin 
 a few times more than the common 
 tin, which makes it stronger. We had 
 a pretty good night at Rotherham, 
 and returned to Sheffield to dinner. 
 Here we went to look over all the 
 manufactories of Scissan's Plate &c, 
 and found the people very civil; 
 ordered many things from each place; 
 spent one night pretty comfortably at 
 the Angel Inn, and got to Castleton 
 the next night. Sunday morning, 
 finding that there was no worship in 
 the Church, we went with a Guide to 
 see the famous Peak's-Hole; and such 
 a place I never was in before, and I 
 never shall venture in such another; 
 I am very much afraid that we shall 
 
136 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 all take cold from seeing this great 
 curiosity. Perfectly satisfied with 
 Peak's-Hole, we determin'd to go on 
 without seeing Paul's, and accordingly 
 reached Bustleton at three o'clock. 
 Just as they were all seated at dinner 
 we joined them, and were pleased to 
 find the company more sociable than 
 at Matlock indeed it is on a much 
 better plan than Matlock altogether; 
 the Crescent is a fine range of build- 
 ings, appropriated strictly for the ac- 
 commodation of strangers, built by the 
 Duke of Devonshire, and is said to 
 have cost him one hundred thousand 
 pounds; the stables are as fine as a 
 gentleman's seat. . . . 
 
 Manchester we reached late in the 
 evening, and could not go out till the 
 morning. We were much gratified 
 in seeing them weave tape, binding, 
 &c ; but, above all, I was surprised to 
 see the velvets pass the red hot iron, 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 137 
 
 and the Man who was doing it told 
 me that it was obliged to go through 
 that operation fifty times before it was 
 finished, and that all fine muslin and 
 prints passed over it also ; the cutting 
 of the velvet is very curious also ; it is 
 done by women with a very sharp 
 steel, like a lancet fixed on a long 
 stick, and cut single. 
 
 The day after we got to Manchester 
 it cleared and was very fine, which 
 enabled us to walk about; having 
 seen everything that was worth no- 
 tice, we set out on our way to Bir- 
 mingham, in the afternoon; reach'd 
 Congleton that night, had an indiffer- 
 ent bed, and was much disturbed by 
 the officers; the next night slept at 
 Penkridge, had a very good night's 
 rest, and reached Birmingham the next 
 evening; let Miss Kirtland know we 
 were in town ; she call'd on us the 
 next morning, and we drank tea with 
 
138 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 her in the afternoon. Here I was not 
 gratified by anything, except Mr. Boul- 
 tin's machine for stamping coin; the 
 day after we reach'd Birmingham, we 
 went about twelve miles from there, 
 to see Hagley, Lord Littleton's place, 
 and Shenston's. They were both beau- 
 tiful, but Shenston's much finer than 
 the other; on our return to Birming- 
 ham, I was very much fatigued, and 
 went to bed early; just as I got un- 
 dress'd, Mr. Bayard came up stairs 
 and told me Mr. & Mrs. King, Mr. & 
 Mrs. Pinkney and Mr. & Mrs. Gore 
 were all in the same inn with us ; we 
 went down and sat an hour with them, 
 and Mrs. King insisted upon our stay- 
 ing the next day and dining together, 
 which we agreed to, and, spent a very 
 pleasant day, and yesterday separated, 
 and got to Warwick last night. Were 
 much pleas'd at seeing Warwick 
 Castle, and Guy Earl of Warwick's 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 139 
 
 porridge-pot, his armour, &c., &c. ; 
 and this evening we reach'd Banbury ; 
 but I forgot to mention that, on our 
 way, this morning, we stopp'd at the 
 chapel to see Shakspeare's tomb ; and 
 we saw a large place, with a quantity 
 of bones over which the old man 
 used to pray, on All-Saints' day, also 
 got some little presents. 
 
 The next morning, our horses being 
 quite unable to go any further, we 
 determined to take post-horses and 
 proceed on our journey. Very for- 
 tunately, by this means, we met our 
 party at Buckingham, and went, in 
 company with them, to see Stow the 
 most famous seat in England, and 
 found it the most elegant and most 
 superb we had ever seen; there are 
 several hundred acres of ground, and 
 all laid out with taste and expense; 
 the house is nine hundred feet long, 
 and is furnished with utmost taste and 
 
140 THE JOURNAL OF 
 
 elegance; the room I most admired 
 was furnished with salmon-colour'd 
 silk, and hung with the same. We 
 returned and dined at the inn, and 
 again met our friends at the Gorge 
 inn, joined parties and supp'd & ate 
 breakfast with them. In the morning, 
 having taken fresh horses, we left 
 them on the road, and got home 
 about three o'clock ; but, oh my heart ! 
 how did the sight of all around me 
 pain my soul everything but served 
 to remind me of a loss which it will 
 take a long time to make me forget 
 alas! how uncertain is every enjoy- 
 ment, and how fraught with care is 
 every comfort; I pray for resignation, 
 merciful father, to thy will. . . . 
 
 November i, 7797. I should be very 
 lonesome now were it not for the 
 kind attentions of good little Aunt 
 Kitty; she endeavours to divert my 
 mind and to draw me into company 
 
MARTHA PINTARD BAYARD 141 
 
 again; but alas! how little relish 
 have I for any enjoyment. Were it 
 not for the hope of soon returning 
 home, I fear I should sink under this 
 affliction. . . . 
 
 December 2. This day last year, 
 ah ! what a happy day was it to again 
 be the mother of another Son, 1 who 
 I fondly flattered myself would have 
 lived to cheer the days of our exile and 
 render them less tedious, but alas ! be- 
 fore he had reached his ninth month, 
 that period which I had anticipated 
 with the most heartfelt pleasure he 
 was taken from me by the hand of 
 death, and shelter'd from all the evils 
 of life. . . . 
 
 i This little child was buried in Bunhill Fields, 
 near the grave of Dr. Isaac Watts. 
 In 1798 Mrs. Bayard returned to her native land. 
 
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