UC-NRLF ailllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllHmilimillllllli; lllllll!llllllllill!lll!!llllliillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll!llllllllllll||||||||||i!|||||||||||!|||||L | |||| Illllllllll Illlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!llll!llllllllll!ll!!liiillilllllll!llllilll!!llll!||||||||^ j I I 1 I II il [j^^-!*^^^ *z +1 Estimating the Cost of Buildings A Systematic Treatise on Fac- tors of Costs and Superintend- ence, With Important Chapters on Plan Reading, Estimating the Cost of Building Alterations, and on System in the Execution of Building Contracts By Arthur W. Joslin '/, Building Estimator and Contractor = 3 3 Illustrated I 3 II II New York David Williams Company 231-241 West 39th Street II - '^ 1913 |i - ' II II 11 I -M ..... 11111111111 ..... iiiiiu ........ iniiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiuiuuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii ...... iiiiiiiiiuir | Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin ......... nun ....... miiiiiiiiii ....... iiiiiiiiiiiiiii ...... iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiii ..... iiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinn= Copyrighted, 1909 BY DAVID WILLIAMS COMPANY Copyrighted, 1913 BY DAVID WILLIAMS COMPANY PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION All of the matter contained in this volume appeared in sub- stantially its present form in Carpentry and Building during the three years just passed. At the time of its writing I had no idea of its appearing in book form, but the articles were so well received that I have listened to the publishers of Car- pent ry and Building [Building Age], and numerous acquaint- ances among builders and architects, and have slightly revised Jlie various papers for publication as a book under the general head of "Estimating the Cost of Buildings." Unfortunately, I have been obliged to undertake this revision at a time when I have been very busy in the conduct of our business. Had this not been the case I should have liked to have enlarged upon a number of the subjects treated, and may do so at some future time. This volume is dedicated to my wife, whose loving presence in my home has made it possible for me to find pleasure there and the time to undertake such matters as this. Boston, November 22, 1909. ARTHUR W. JOSLIN. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION i At the time of writing the first edition of this book I started out with the assumption that its circulation would be almost wholly among those who understood "plan reading." It has since developed that there is a demand for the book in evening classes in Industrial, Trade, Y. M. C. A. and similar schools where the students have little er no knowledge of plan reading and must of necessity acquire such knowledge before taking up the study of estimating from plans. I am therefore starting the Second Edition with chapters on this subject and have endea- vored to treat it in language so simple that it will be readily understood by all. Suitable illustrations accompany these chap- ters, and it is hoped by both Publishers and Author that a much more useful book is being offered in this edition. Boston, July, 1913. ARTHUR W. JOSLIN. 3 CONTENTS PART I Reading Architects' Drawings CHAPTER I. PAGE Definition of a Plan and General Explanations 7 CHAPTER II. Analysis of the Foundation and Cellar Plan 12 CHAPTER III. First, Second and Attic Floor Plans 18 CHAPTER IV. Elevations, Roofs, Block Plans and the Use of Colors on Drawings. 26 PART II Masonry, Iron Work, Marble Work, Metal Work CHAPTER V. Knowledge Required* by the Estimator 34 CHAPTER VI. Method of Estimating 37 CHAPTER VII. Excavation and Ground Work 40 CHAPTER VIII. Foundation Walls, Walks, Grading 44 CHAPTER IX. Brick Work 48 CHAPTER X. Stone and Terra Cotta, Ornamental and Structural, Concrete Floors 55 CHAPTER XI. Steel and Iron Work 61 CHAPTER XII. Marble, Mosaic and Terrazzo Work 64 CHAPTER XIII. Roofing and Metal Work 65 PART III Carpenter Work CHAPTER XIV. Frame, Studding and Furring 71 CHAPTER XV. Boarding and Measuring Roof Surfaces 81 CHAPTER XVI. Shingles, Clapboards and Outside Finish 90 CHAPTER XVII. Windows, Doors, Inside Finish and Floors 99 5 6 CONTENTS PART IV Miscellaneous Sub-Contracts CHAPTER XVIII. PAGE Plastering 108 CHAPTER XIX. Painting 110 CHAPTER XX. Plumbing, Gas-Piping, Electric Work, Heating 120 CHAPTER XXI. Miscellaneous Expenses, Lockers, Profits, etc 123 CHAPTER XXII. Example of Making Approximate Costs 128 PART V Estimating the Cost of Building Alterations CHAPTER XXIII. Razing, Shoring and Temporary Protection 132 CHAPTER XXIV. Masonry, Iron and Steel, Roof and Metal Work 13G CHAPTER XXV. Carpenter Work, Plastering, Painting, Plumbing, Etc 141 CHAPTER XXVI. An Interesting Example of Alteration Work 144 PART VI System in the Execution of Building Contracts CHAPTER XXVII. Steps Necessary to Start Building Operations 149 CHAPTER XXVIII. Job Superintendence 157 CHAPTER XXIX. Handling Work at a Distance, Timekeeping and Divided Costs. ... 163 PART 1 Reading Architects' Drawings CHAPTER I Definition of a Plan and General Explanations A plan is a set of ' ' conventional ' ' signs usually drawn to scale, to illustrate the design of the structure that is to be built. A properly drawn plan, correctly read or understood, conveys a perfect mental picture of the completed work. Scale of Drawings The ratio of the plan to the work is as the scale of the plan to 12 inches. Thus on a ^-inch scale plan every part that can be measured is 1/96 of the intended length, width, height or thick- ness, for there are 96 one-eighth inches in 12 inches. Likewise a J-inch scale plan shows everything reduced 1/48 from the in- tended size or dimension. A ^-inch scale shows things reduced to 1/24 actual size. A J-inch scale to 1/16 actual size. A IJ-inch scale to J actual size. A 3-inch scale to J actual size. A 6-inch scale to 4 actual size. Drawings made the actual size of the parts are termed * * full size details. ' ' Drawings made to J-inch scale or larger, up to but not including full size, are termed "scale de- tails." Most building plans are drawn J-inch or |-inch scale. This means that each J-inch or ^-inch, as the case may be, on the plan, represents one foot in the structure. Therefore a floor plan that measured 10 in. on one of its sides, if drawn to the scale of J-inch, would mean 40 ft. in the actual building, as there are 40 one- quarter inches in 10 inches. If the plan was drawn to the scale of |-inch and measured 10 in. on one of its sides, it would mean 80 ft. in the actual building, as there are 80 one-eighth inches in 10 inches. 7 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Full Size Drawings Details drawn to large scale or full size are made to show es- sential particulars that it is impossible to show on J-inch or J-inch scale plans. On all drawings where figures are supplied they are given in numerals followed by the customary signs for feet and inches; thus a dash to the right of and just above the figure signifies feet, two dashes similarly placed signifies inches ; six feet and nine inches would be written on a plan as follows 6'-9", or twenty-one feet and three- f ourths . of an inch, thus 23/-0}". The different plans usually furnished for a building are floor plans, elevations, sections and more or less scale details. Base- ment and cellar plans come under the head of floor plans. Elevations are plans of the sides of buildings, and they show doors, windows, pitch of roofs, etc., which can not be fully shown or made clear on a floor plan. Thus, a floor plan can, by the con- ventional sign, show the location of a window in a wall, but it can not show its height, width of casings, thickness of stool, whether having backhand molding or not, manner of cutting up sash into lights of glass, etc. All of these things must be deter- mined from the elevations, and in particular work these J-inch or J-inch scale elevations are further supplemented by large scale or full size elevations and sections. A sectional drawing is a repre- sentation of the construction of a building, or part of same, showing of what members or parts the build- ing, or part of same, are made up. " Cross hatching" is a series of diagonal lines filling in the entire space between two or more lines defining the outline of any member or part of the building cut through and brought into view by a sec- tional drawing. Where members abut each other, the direction of * the cross hatching lines is changed to more clearly define or emphasize each separate part. Portions of a FIG. 1 PART OF CELLAR PLAN SHOWING CHIMNEY, ETC. DEFINITION OF A PLAN AND EXPLANATIONS 9 building brought into view by a sectional drawing, but not cut through, are elevations. Thus a drawing taken on an imaginary line through a building would be in part a sectional, and in part an interior elevation, drawing. Public improvements sometimes require the literal cutting in two of a building and the destruction of one part. The part left standing, showing the ends of joists, walls, partitions, etc., and the walls of various rooms with doors, base, trim, mantels, etc., all in plain view, is a living example of a sectional drawing. All parts actually cut through would be * ' cross hatched " on a sectional drawing. A cellar, basement or floor plan is the view of a building if it were sawed in two horizontally somewhere about half way be- tween the floor and the ceiling, and the upper part removed. Parts Represented by Dotted Lines Objects above the imaginary line upon which the plan is made, or below the floor, have their outline or form shown by dotted lines. There are cases where parts shown dotted mean something else, and this will be explained later. Plans are usually accompanied by specifications, which in great measure describe at length the kind and quality of the materials to be used in carrying out the work, and the methods and order of performing it. Assuming that the reader -knows very little about plans, the first thing he should do is to read the specifications carefully. This will help him to determine the meaning of some of the lines or signs on the plan. To illustrate the point made above Fig. 1 is a part of a cellar plan showing a chimney, piers built in connection therewith, and the heater and smoke-pipe. You probably found in reading the specifications that all walls, piers, chimneys, etc., were to have footings. Now, as footings are below the cellar floor and cannot be seen on the plan, and as you probably know without being told that they extend beyond the parts over them, you at once identify the irregular dotted line "A" as the outline of the footing for the chimney and the io ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS two piers built in conjunction therewith. If you know so little about a plan as to be in doubt as to how a chimney is shown, the fact that the inner rectangle is marked "Ash Pit" ought to help to identify the pair of parallel lines inclosing it as a chimney, shown in plan. Details of Chimney Having made up your mind it probably is a chimney that is shown, the parallel lines, which will be found by using a scale rule, are 4" apart, it is at once determined that it is the brick wall which makes the chimney. It is recognized that an ash pit must have walls of some kind around it ; that presumably they would be brick and being brick they would be 4" thick. Now observe the smaller rectangle inclosed in double lines (B) about one inch apart by scale and above the ash pit as you look at the plan. It is known that a chimney has a flue or flues, and you should readily identify this as a flue having a flue lining. The double lines, one inch apart by scale, with the four inch wall around it, should convince you beyond a doubt that it is a chimney that is shown. If further evidence is necessary there is the circle marked "Heater," and the dotted lines from heater to flue, meaning of course the smoke pipe leading as they do from the heater to the flue. The figures within the flue "8/12" signify that it is an 8" x 12" flue, which you know to be one of the sizes in general use. The method of noting size on the plan (8/12) is a sort of short hand, as there is not room to write out the size in full with "inch signs" added to numerals (8" x 12"). The extensions on the two corners of the chimney, marked "C," are piers built up with and bonded to it. The cleanout door for the ash pit is indicated by a line on the outside wall of the chimney. It is marked "Door," is 15 in. in length by scale, and its size is probably given in the specifica- tions. The asterisk at D, denotes a gas or electric 1 light outlet and fixture; the method of lighting is determined in the specifica- tions. This covers everything shown in Fig. 1, and by using a scale DEFINITION OF A PLAN AND EXPLANATIONS 11 on the drawing the size of the chimney, piers, heater, etc., is found, and the work can be laid out accordingly. Use of a Carpenter's Rule If, using a carpenter's rule, each one- fourth (%") of an inch means one foot (l'-0") in the actual work, it naturally follows that one-sixteenth of an inch represents three inches ; one-eighth of an inch six inches, and three-sixteenths of an inch nine inches in actual work. Such dimensions as 1", 2", 4", 5", 7", 8", 10", 11" are determined by "eye" when using the carpenter's rule. If a scale rule is used there are graduations reading to each inch. Having thoroughly analyzed the small portion of a plan shown in Fig. 1, we will now analyze a complete set of plans for a small dwelling. The set of plans are shown in the following diagrams, of which Fig. 2 is Foundation and Cellar Plan. Fig. 3 Section of Foundation Wall. Fig. 4 Elevation of Pipe Column. Fig. 5 is the First Floor Plan. Fig. 6 is the Second Floor Plan. Fig. 7 the Attic Floor Plan. Fig. 8 the Front Elevation. Fig. 9 the Rear. Fig. 10 the Side (Left) Elevation, and Fig. 11 the Side (Right) Elevation. All of these drawings are made to scale of J" to 1'. Each draw- ing is supplemented by numerous notes and figures, also by de- tached sections and elevations from J" to f " scale. CHAPTER il Analysis of the Foundation and Cellar Plan Probably the first thing observed upon looking at the cellar plan, Fig. 2, is that two parallel lines form a somewhat irregular rectangle. The outer line represents the outside of the founda- 34 '-O- 1 ' -.T rrfc =il * m j-*.-K_-.-u-t.-_-t_-.-> | 6-6'y3~~" ^-FUTURE PARTITION DOOR-^ r> > FIG. 2 PLAN OF FOUNDATION AND CELLAR SCALE I N - To THE FOOT tion upon which the house is to be erected. The inner line, which is figured in several places as being 16" from the outer line (see A-B), represents the inside line of foundation. The figures 16" between these lines at several places call attention to the fact that the foundation wall is 16" thick. Notice that wherever this dimension is put on the plan between lines representing the outside and inside lines of the foundation, there are small arrows, thus: -* 16" -e- These arrow points are called "witness marks," and they convey the information that 12 ANALYSIS OF FOUNDATION AND CELLAR PLAN 13 the 16" is from one of these marks to the other. Ordinarily the shaft of the arrow would be towards the figures, as in the case of the dimension 34'-0" at the top of the plan "C," which, by the location of the witness marks at the right and left of it, shows that these figures represent the length of the building on that side. The reason for reversing the arrows in the case of the 16" di- mension is that the two parallel lines are so near together that there is not room to continue the shaft lines towards each other and leave room for the figures. The usual custom in regard to the "extended arrows," or dimension lines, put on plans is to make them of red or diluted black ink, so that when the blue print is made they come out as a faint line. While faint they are easily distinguishable, but not heavy enough to be confused with the full prominent lines of the plan. The witness marks or arrow heads are put on drawings in black ink so that when blue-printed they will stand out prominently and call particular attention to the points between which the dimension is taken. In laying out work from a plan figures should always be followed in preference to dimensions obtained by scaling the plan. In using the figures particular care should be taken to note to which lines or points the witness marks refer. Where 'intermediate measurements, as well as over all, are given, as in the dimension next below the 34'-0" referred to, the said intermediate figures should be checked to see that their total agrees with the "over all" figure. Thus the figures (on the line of figures under 34' -0") ll'-O" from outside of wall to center of mullion window, 16'-6" from center of mullion window to center of single window, and 6'-6" from center of single window to out- side wall are found to total 34'-0". Go down further on the plan to the line of figures D, and we find the figures 19'-0", witnessed from outside of wall to a line continued from the center of a column, followed by the figures 15'-0", witnessed from center of column to outside of the opposite wall. We find that the dimensions 19'-0" and 15'-0" added also give us 34'-0". As the outermost witness marks in the case of the last two of these lines of dimensions are from the same lines on the plan as those of the line C, each should total 34'-0", as in C. 14 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Failure to do so is evidence that there is an error somewhere in the figuring. By comparing plans over and under the one in question, checking their figures, and by using the scale rule where figures are manifestly incorrect, a correction can usually be made by the person attempting to lay out the work from the plans. Failing to discover the error by the above method the matter should be referred to the archi- tect or his representative who will determine the corrections to be made.. To study the outside wall further we have recourse to the section of the foundation wall shown in Fig. 3. We will as- sume that the specifications call for footings. To make the plan Fig. 2 correct, the footing lines should show as at E, but as the addition of unnecessary lines makes the plan complicated, and it is made plain in other places that footings are required, the plan is just as clear as though they were shown. FIG. 3 SECTION OF FOUNDATION WALL SCALE IN. TO THE FOOT Now look at Fig. 3, which is a section through the foundation wall. The thickness of wall at the top and bottom, respectively 16" and 2'-0", is shown here ; also the depth of the cellar from under side of first floor con- struction when plastered to the top of concrete (7'-6") ; the shape and location of footing; size of the sill and its location on the wall ; and several other points of construction. You have probably noticed that the vertical lines representing the wall are not continuous as at A. The lines are "broken," as it is called to compress the drawing into a smaller space. If you scale the distance figured 7'-6" you will find that it falls short of this figure. The height of wall as shown in this section being broken twice, once above and once below the line B, which denotes the outside grade, establishes the fact that the amount of Avail above and below the grade is variable, as is ANALYSIS OF FOUNDATION AND CELLAR PLAN 15 noted on the drawing. In order to determine the relation of the grade to the top of the wall, reference must be made to the elevations. Also notice that this section shows a 4" x 6" sill laid flatways on the wall and far enough from the outer edge of the wall, so that when it is studded up above the sill and outside boards put on, the outside line of boarding is flush with the outside of the foun- dation. Now to refer back to Fig. 2 in the lower right-hand corner, we find the note, " All measurements are Outside of Frame." If you look carefully at the dimension lines you will see that lines ex- tending from the corners to which dimensions are figured, are by scale, about 1" short of the full line representing the outside line of the foundation (see F). A glance at Fig. 2 shows that the floor joist C is sized onto the sill about 1", that there is an under and upper floor, denoted by the two lines drawn parallel to the line representing the upper edge of the joists; and that the ceiling of the cellar is sheathed or plastered, as denoted by the line below and parallel with the line representing the bottom edge of the joist. The specifications probably confirm the matter of the two floors and state whether ceiling is sheathed or plastered. The plans have frequently to be considered with each other and with the specifications, and then coupled with some little knowledge of construction, in order to have them convey to the person attempting to read them what the arohitect intends to have built. In the upper right-hand corner of Fig. 2, and within the pair of parallel lines representing the foundations, are two divisions plainly marked "Range and Heater Coal." The lines which bound and form the partitions are about 1" apart by scale, in- dicating that the partition G would be composed of 1" or $" boards, which should be nailed to the studs H, about 30" apart by scale. The door is at J, partly open to show the swing, and be- hind the door is the * ' Hopper. ' ' In the lower right-hand corner of Fig. 2 is another compart- ment, marked "Cold Closet," shown by lines similar to those denoting the coal bin, except that there are two parallel lines on each side of the studs, This, of course, means that the cold closet ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS partition is boarded on each side of the studs, and an examination of the door K shows that this is of double construction also. The lines inside of the cold room are to represent shelves, and as a plan could not show how many and there is no section given, the note "3 Sh's" (3 shelves) is added. Possibly the specifications would mention this, but whether they did or not, the note settles the question of how many shelves, and the drawing shows the width. In the upper left-hand corner is the note "Laundry Space," and parallel dotted lines en- close it. This is one of the , cases referred to where dotted lines may mean something else besides things under the floor or above the imaginary line upon which the plan is supposed to be taken. In this case the information is given in the note "Future Parti- tion." Notice the tubs under the windows and the platform upon which they set, also the water closet (W. C.), which is also shown on a platform, although it is not noted. Study the plan carefully at this point and you will see that a platform is shown here as well as at the tubs where the fact is noted. Fig. 4 is a typical column like those on the cellar plan Fig. 2 near W. C., and foot of stairs. The detail illustrates a side eleva- tion of floor joist A ; section of girder B ; elevation of column C ; section of concrete floor D ; elevation of small block of cast con- crete usually sold with columns E, and a section of the footing under the column F. For convenience in drawing, this column is shown "broken," but the figures give the correct dimension be- tween floor and ceiling, and agree with the section shown in Fig. 3, 1 C- a > i i S D t ^ti$&&&m FIG. 4 ELEVATION OF PIPE COLUMN- SCALE IN. TO THE FOOT ANALYSIS OF FOUNDATION AND CELLAR PLAN 17 Outside of the lines representing the foundation on Fig. 2, to the right and left at the top, are the piers supporting the front and rear porches. The size of the piers is figured as well as drawn to scale, and the footings in all cases are shown dotted. We have now examined in detail nearly everything shown on this cellar plan except the stairs indicated at M, which start straight with two steps, take a right angle turn with "winders" and continue up to the first floor. See bent arrow marked "up.'' The stairs are shown in full lines about halfway up, when they change to dotted lines. The upper part of these stairs can be seen on the First Floor Plan, where the arrow is noted "Down." The height of the foundation out of the ground, the style of the cellar windows and other similar particulars are obtained by referring to the elevations which show all four sides of the building. CHAPTER III First, Second and Attic Floor Plans In Fig. 55 we see a pair of parallel lines which except for the front porch, rear porch and bay window (B. C. D.) conform to r n -4V- 1 - h'-'or 'o'- 4 ' -T 6-8'- FIG. 5 FIRST FLOOR PLAN SCALE ^12 I N - TO THE FOOT the same outline as the foundation and cellar plan shown in Fig, 2. Notice, however, that the two parallel lines are much nearer together than on the foundation plan. If you try a scale rule on 18 FIRST, SECOND AND ATTIC FLOOR PLANS 19 these lines you will find that they scale 6 in. apart. In an or- dinary frame house or other structure the outside is assumed to be 6 in. through. This thickness is made up as follows : Studding, 4 in. ; outside boards, 1 in. ; plastering, 1 in. ; total, 6 in. To be accurate the studding is 3J in., the outside boards in., the plas- tering J in. The shingles, clapboards or other outside wall cover- ing and the base inside are not taken into account in making - in. or smaller scale drawings. The draughtsman assumes that you know of the existence of these parts and that you will look to the elevations, large scale and full-size details and the speci- fications, for more particulars in regard to them. All interior partitions that are built of 4-in. studs are also assumed to be 6 in. and are so drawn. Partitions shown a little less than 6 in. by scale are of 2 in. x 3 in. studding, and if shown even thinner than those implying 3-in. studding, they may be assumed to be built of 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 set flatways. Partitions marked E on the plan Fig. 5 are of 3-in. studding ; those marked F are of studs set the 2 in. way. The partition which divides the dining room from the living room and is figured 10 in. is for a large single sliding door. When the door is opened, it slides into a pocket, about 3 in. wide, made by the two partitions G. Windows in general, on small scale drawings for frame build- ings, are shown by two parallel lines between the lines represent- ing the outside wall, the length of these lines being the scale width of the sash. A typical window is shown at H. Where windows are grouped they are shown as at J, representing a mul- lion window, and at K, representing a triple window. These same parallel lines between partition lines would represent a sash in a partition. To find the style, height, etc., of these windows shown in the outside wall, the elevations must be referred to. Doors are shown by an opening in the parallel lines represent- ing a wall or partition as at L. From these openings there are lines at an angle with a segment of a circle faintly shown. The line at an angle represents the door and the faint line shows which way it swings. Notice that each door is figured for size. Wood,. style and thickness or any other particulars must be ob- tained from other drawings and the specifications. 20 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS The door marked M represents a double swing door. Notice that the angular line is dotted, shows both sides of the partition, and that the segment of circle, showing swing of door, continues each way from the partition. At the outside doors (from re- ception hall to porch, and back hall to rear porch) you see a line about 2 in. by scale from the outer line of the two denoting the outside wall and running 5 in. or 6 in. by scale beyond the open- ing shown for the door. This shows the threshold and also implies a riser or difference in height between the levels of the floor in the building and on the porch. If you will step outside of your own front door and look at the threshold of it, I think you will see at once the conditions just explained and the logic of the method of showing them on the drawing. The kitchen, back hall, pantry and china closet have shelving and equipment of various kinds. Next examine the stairs going up from the reception hall. The first riser N is carried around at right angles until it stops against the partition that follows down under the second run of stairs X, the corner being a quarter circle. This is called a block step. The newel starts on this block step, the next riser (2) is also a block step, and ends in a small quarter circle against the newel. Next are the risers Nos. 3, 4, 5, 6, a platform, a right angle turn and risers 7, 8, 9, where the stairs have reached a height somewhat above halfway to the second floor, and a closet is put in under them. The balance of these stairs will be seen at A on the second floor plan, Fig. 6, where the riser numbers are picked up at No. 9, and continued to No. 15. Notice that the arrow at the start of these stairs on Fig. 5 says ''Up 15 R." Now look at the stairs going up out of the kitchen where arrow says "Up 14 R." Here we find five risers up to the level of the platform of the front stairs. There is a door from the kitchen to these stairs, also a door at the top, on the platform, to cut them off from the kitchen and the front stairs. This part flight to the platform is called a "box flight/' as it is between two walls; consequently it does not re- quire posts, rails and balusters, but has a wall rail on the right as you go up, shown by the parallel lines close together. The lines representing the rail turn with a quarter circle at right angles FIRST, SECOND AND ATTIC FLOOR PLANS 21 into the partition, which denotes that the rail turns into the wall at each end, and is fastened there to the partition. As we have six risers from the reception hall, and five risers from the kitchen, the fact is established that the height of each riser in the box flight from the kitchen is increased enough to FIG. 6 SECOND FLOOR PLAN SCALE - TO THE FOOT cover the distance from the first floor to the platform. An ar- rangement of stairs like this is called a "combination stair." Besides the box flight from kitchen to the platform, there is the flight of stairs leading to the cellar (A). Here the arrow says "Down." This is between partitions and is a box flight at the start, but as you go down into the cellar it becomes an open flight. 22 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS The partition between these stairs and the front stairs at P, would have to stop even with the under side of the stringer of the upper run of the front stairs (risers 7, 8, 9, etc.) in order to make "head room" for the cellar flight, At the point where this partition occurs we have gone up 7 risers and down 5 risers from the first floor. As the average riser is about 8 in. high we have in the 12 risers about 96 in. or 8 ft. Out of this must come the depth of the stringer under risers 7, 8, 9, etc. As this would be only 5 in. or 6 in. you readily see that there is ample head room for the cellar flight. There is no way that this stopping of the partition under the upper run can be shown on the floor plans, but when the arrangement of stairs is studied the fact must be evident. The chimney in the corner of the living room is clearly in- dicated. The 8-in. x 12-in. flue shown on the cellar plan Fig. 2 is in evidence. As the corner of the chimney having this flue comes into the kitchen the inference may be drawn that this flue also serves for the kitchen range, which is shown in the corner of the kitchen Q. The kitchen boiler marked B is in a niche back of the range. Notice that the part of the chimney showing in the kitchen and boiler niche has no line enclosing it as in the dining room at F. This shows that this much of the chimney is exposed and requires the brickwork to be laid up neatly and possibly of better brick than the rest of the chimney. This is one of the points that is undoubtedly settled by the specifications. The Bookcases and Fireplace The fireplace is fully shown and carefully figured even to the face brick lining, hearth, dump to ash pit under, etc. Notes on the plan at this point show that a seat and bookcases are worked in around the chimney corner. The large scale or full-size draw- ings do not come as a rule until after a contract with the builders is made and it is about time to build in the special parts; in con- sequence the estimator has to determine the requirements from the small scale drawings, the specifications and his experience with work in general and his consultations with the architect. A study of the porches B and C shown in plan Fig. 5, and FIRST, SECOND AND ATTIC FLOOR PLANS 23 reference to the elevation will show which of the various lines represent steps, posts, rails, etc. Large scale details are shown of the front porch and living room bay, and these will be taken up later and references made to the first floor plan. The Second Floor Plan We will now study the second floor plan, Fig. 6, but at much less length than was devoted to the first floor plan. Here we see the same outline as the first floor, except the front of the building, where the dotted lines B show the outline of the first floor. As the parallel lines representing the front wall of the building show, the second floor overhangs to the face of the two projections on the front wall of the first floor, and the part of the second story front wall over the porch has a still further overhang or projection in the form of a square bay C. Everything in regard to partitions, doors and windows explained in connection with the first-floor plan applies to the second floor. In the bath rooms a bowl, bath tub and water closet are shown. As each of these fixtures is noted, you cannot help locating them on this plan. The conventional methods of show- ing these fixtures never varies much from the way they are shown here, and, even if the fixtures were not noted, no difficulty should be experienced in identifying them. The Chimney Notice the chimney D. Here we have a plain rectangular- shaped affair with two 8 x 12 flues. If you look at the drawing carefully you will see that the two flues are side by side, having no brick withe (partition) between them. The flue No. 1 is the same one shown in the plan of the chimney on both the founda- tion and first-floor plans. The other flue, No. 2, is for the fire- place. As this starts midway between the first and second floors, drawing the flue on the first floor over all the lines showing the fireplace would only serve to complicate the first-floor plan, and no attempt is made to show it there. The part of the plan marked E is the front porch roof. The roof and gutter lines are shown, and the fact that it is a shingle roof is noted. The dotted line shows the outline of the frieze of 24 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS the porch cornice. The distance from the dotted line to the outer edge of the gutter is the overhang of the cornice (F). While discussing the foundation and cellar plan attention was called to the fact that all dimensions were to "the outside of frame." This note applies throughout all the plans. Take the dimension 34 ft. referred to on the foundation plan ; compare the same side of the first and second-floor plans and you will see that it is the same on both. You will also see that the 11-ft. dimension at the left, and 6-ft. 6-in. dimension at the right, which are to the center of the windows, or mull ion windows, also applies to all three plans. An examination of the elevations of this side of the FIG. 7 ATTIC PLAN SCALE 1/12 IN. TO THE FOOT house will show by the lines drawn over the plan, running through the center of the windows, and groups of windows, that they center over each other and at the same figured distance from the corners of the building called for by the floor plans. The sides A and B, in the attic floor plan, Fig. 7, are the gable and sides indicated in the elevations in Figs. 10 and 11. Notice FIRST, SECOND AND ATTIC FLOOR PLANS 25 that the line representing the inside line of the wall is discon- tinued shortly after it passes the partitions that intersect it as at C, but that the line denoting the outside of the wall is continued to the corner. This is to show that while the studding, boards, wall shingles, etc., continue to the outside corners, the plastering occurs only when the inside of the wall is in a room or finished part of the attic. The balance of the outline of the house at attic floor level is shown by a dotted line D. The dot and dash lines E show the roof plan, those around the outline being the line of the outside of cornices and rakes, and the one through the center being the ridge of the roof. Everything else necessary to know on this plan can readily be determined by applying the explanations given with the first and second floors and by reading the notes. CHAPTER IV Elevations, Roofs, Block Plans, and the Use of Colors on Drawings We will next take up for consideration the various elevations, of which Fig. 8 represents the front, Fig. 9 the rear, Fig. 10 the left side and Fig. 11 the right side elevations. These are all drawn to ^-in. scale, but are here reproduced one-third that size or to a scale of %2 i n - equals one foot. An elevation drawing of FIG. 8 FRONT ELEVATION SCALE y 12 IN. TO THE FOOT the side of a building is one in which every part that can be seen, if you were standing directly in front of the center of a side of a building, and at sufficient distance so that all perspective effect was lost, was brought forward into a vertical plane and pictured as though it was a flat surface. 26 ELEVATIONS AND ROOFS In drawings of this kind true heights, widths and other meas- urements may be obtained, whereas a perspective drawing like a photograph, cannot be measured in the ordinary way. Look at the upper part of Fig. 8 at A, where the front slope of the roof is shown. As far as this drawing goes it might be a vertical sur- face. Now look at the left side elevation in Fig. 10 and you will see that it is a sloping surface. If you scale the vertical distance A on both Figs. 8 and 10 you will find that they are the same. As you look at this elevation (Fig. 8) your judgment must tell you that the surface A is the FIG. 9 REAR ELEVATION SCALE y i2 IN. TO THE FOOT main roof, the surface B the bay-window roof, and the surface C the porch roof. From this drawing you may scale the true ver- tical height of these roofs, but to get the pitch or slope of them you must refer to either one or the other of the side elevations which are at right angles to the front. Look at the side eleva- tions, Figs. 10 and 11, where the roofs are marked B and C. 28 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Thus from the elevation drawings you can obtain all information relative to door and window heights, widths, style, etc., size and slope of roofs, style of cornice, porches, balustrades and outside trim generally, so far as such parts may be intelligently shown at such a reduction from the full size. Conventional methods of drawing or notes also make clear the materials used for wall and roof coverings. When all of the above are taken with the floor plans and specifications, a true mental picture of the structure is produced, and all of the drawings may be read as figured, or FIG. 10 LEFT SIDE OR SOUTHEAST ELEVATION SCALE y i2 IN. TO THE FOOT scaled if not figured, for actual dimensions to use in estimating upon or carrying out the erection of the building. To make perfectly clear to the estimator or builder the style and construction of cornices, porches, bay windows, etc., large scale drawings are given as follows : f -in. scale section and eleva- tions of front porch, Fig. 12; f-in. scale section through living room bay, Fig. 13, and IJ-in. scale section through main cornice, Fig. 14. The J-in. scale typical section through wall and roof LARGE SCALE DETAILS AND BLOCK PLAN 29 of house, from footings to roof (Fig. 15), provides an opportu- nity to show size of joists and rafters, and heights of stories properly figured. For purposes of publication these drawings are presented to a scale one-third of that mentioned. There is also shown, at a scale of 40 ft. to the inch, a "block plan," as in Fig. 16. The main purpose of this plan is to show the location of the house on the lot. It should, and usually does, show many other things necessary to know and inconvenient to ircn 10" IN I'-O* TCn 4*i 12* FIG. 1 1 ]?IGIIT SIDE OR NORTHWEST ELEVATION SCALE 1^2 I N - TO THE put on the general plans. Among these things are the following : Dry wells and locations ; sewer, gas and water mains, their dis- tances from the house and the direction in which connections of the above take to reach the house ; cesspools and locations ; walks. retaining walls, driveways and fences ; size and shape of lot ; points of the compass, etc. All of these matters must be known, and the block plan shows 30 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS them and their relation to each other. So much has been offered in explanation of the several floor plans, small sections and eleva- tions that it would seem that further words would only confuse the reader. However, a few words in explanation of some of 12 FIG. 12 ELEVATION AND SECTION OF FRONT POBCH SCALE ^ IN. TO THE FOOT LARGE SCALE DETAILS 31 the large scale drawings may possibly be of assistance in helping ihe reader to understand them. Take Fig. 12, which is drawn to a scale of f in. to the foot, but published to a scale of f in. equal 1 ft. On the left we have an elevation of the porch as seen from the side. On the right is a sec- tion through the porch taken about on line R-R of Fig. 5, and R-R on the elevation Fig. 10 shows about where this sec- tion is taken. You will see, if you look at the porch on this elevation, Fig. 10, that the large scale drawing presents about that part of same to the right of the line R-R. The principal advantage of this large drawing of the porch is that the draughts- man is enabled to show mould- ing profiles, cornice projec- tions, etc., and give dimen- sions that, on account of the small scale, could not be made evident on the front or side elevations. The section also enables him to show the con- struction and size of frame members. These latter points of information cannot be shown on the floor plans or FIG. 13 SECTION THROUGH LIVING ROOM i-in. scale elevations. BAY-SCALE * IN. TO THE FOOT Fig. 13 is a section through the living room bay and is also drawn f in. to 1 ft., but published one-half this size. It shows the bay as it would look if cut in two on the line D-D, Fig. 8, and 32 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS the left-hand piece was removed, so that you would see the con- struction from the main sill on the foundation up through to a point a foot or so above the second floor. Everything revealed by this "autopsy," that is actually cut through, is cross-hatched, or in the case of large members like the sill and girt, shown in imitation of a large piece of end wood, the growth rings and checking being simulated. The joists and studding, the sides of which stand revealed, are drawn in imita- tion of a large piece of timber or plank as seen sideways, the side grain being simulated. Fig. 14 shows a section through the main cornice on the front or rear of the building as at E-E, in Figs. 8 and 9. Remarks in LI/SE OP TOP WIMDOW GASI-NG FIG. 14 DETAIL OF MAIN CORNICE SCALE % IN. TO THE FOOT explanation of Fig. 13 apply here with equal force. This draw- ing was made to a scale of 1 J in. to 1 ft., but is here shown one- half this size. Fig. 15 is a scale section through the house, from footing course to roof, making no attempt to show anything except story heights, joists and rafter sizes, height of rough window open- ings, etc. Many architects and draughtsmen use colors and different types of cross-hatching to show the materials of which the various parts are constructed. For instance, red is used to show brick in plan or section, yellow to show wood, and blue to show stone, etc. While these different colors and the several types of cross-hatching are frequently used, custom varies as to their USE OF COLORS ON PLANS 33 use. While an aid to reading plans they are in no sense a necessity. The proper reading or understanding of plans is a progressive study. As you grasp the meaning of one thing shown, the mean- ing of other parts adjacent, become apparent. As knowledge of actual construction and architecture is acquired, the meaning 66.05 3*'4- FIG. 15 SECTION -SCALE ^ IN. TO THE FOOT FIG. 16 BLOCK PLAIN SCALE 1" 40 FT. of the lines becomes more and more evident, and while sufficient explanations have been given above to start the student on his way, he must be ever observant of things structural and archi- tectural if progress is to be made. PART II Masonry, Iron Work, Marble Work, Metal Work CHAPTER V Knowledge Required by the Estimator No one should undertake to estimate quantities from plans until he has reached a point where a drawing is as easily read or comprehended as so much printed matter is read and under- stood by a person taking up a book or paper dealing with a sub- ject with which he is familiar. It is to be hoped that a careful study of the preceding chapters, and the drawings which accompany same, will have prepared the student to come up to the above requirements and thus en- able him to follow the subject intelligently. There have been a number of books written on this subject, but in the main they tell how many, brick there are to the foot in various thicknesses of walls, how much waste there is on lum- ber, how much work of various kinds a man ought to do in a day, and so on. Now all of this is very essential, but the prob- lems that confront most beginners when a large plan is given them to estimate on are more like these : Where am I going to begin ? How am I going to know when I have taken off all the materials of a given kind? And how shall I go at it to know that I have omitted no important item? Most men engaged in any of the various trades connected with the building business who get to positions where it becomes a part of their duty to " survey " quantities, and estimate costs on same, I assume are able to perform the ordinary operations of arithmetic, such as addition, subtraction, multiplication and division, both of simple numbers and of fractions or decimals. I shall also assume that they understand more or less of mensu- 34 KNOWLEDGE REQUIRED BY THE ESTIMATOR 35 ration, or the methods of obtaining the areas of various shaped planes and the contents of various shaped solids. In the chapters dealing Avith "estimating" I shall not enter into the matter of "costs" any more than to try and show how you can work out for yourself the cost per unit of the various items going to make up a building. As the cost of the various commodities entering buildings, also the labor necessary to in- stall them, are so variable in different parts of the country, my reasons for this must be plain. I shall treat the question from the point of view of the man figuring the "general contract." In the natural order of things he has either been a journeyman mason or carpenter before cir- cumstances placed him in the lists as superintendent or con- tractor. No one man can know everything about all trades, and so it will be impossible for him to figure everything. Nevertheless, if he has had his eyes and ears open he should know enough to estimate at least two-thirds of everything entering a building. Such items as electric work, plumbing, heating and ventilating and a few others require to be figured by men having an in- timate personal knowledge of these trades. It is very embarrass- ing, when called upon to submit a bid for a building, to have to chase all over town to get sub-bids to cover three- fourths of the job before being able to make up a figure. Your own judgment and ability should enable you to make a figure on the work with but little assistance from others. It is an unwritten law in the building trades that if a sub- bidder has figured some portion of the work for you, and you have used his bid in making your figure, he should be awarded that part of the work in event of your success in obtaining the contract. This is only just and proper, as he has given of his time and brains to assist you in making a price for the work. My experience has been that you can get closer bids for such parts of the work as you wish to sublet if the parties estimating know that you have actually got the work to let out. I trust that the above remarks have prepared the reader to take up with me the actual study of the subject in hand. Please bear in mind that opinions vary and that none of us are perfect. 36 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS I am not claiming to know all that there is to know on this sub- ject, but having for more than 14 years done enough figuring to keep about 150 men employed, on the average, and the firm's accounts showing credits on the profit side of the ledger, I feel that what I may have to say will be of help to many. CHAPTER VI Method of Estimating In general practice no two buildings which you are called upon to figure will be exactly alike; nevertheless, you can have a general system or method and vary it to suit individual cases. By having such a system and always following it as closely as circumstances will permit, you become more expert and eliminate the possibility of errors. Bear with me for stating some things that are obvious to the average reader, and remem- ber that there probably will be, among those who follow this subject with me, men to whom very little is plain. It is in order to make things clear to them that I go into these seeming trifles. When a plan and specification is handed to you and you are requested to make a bid for the work, the first thing to do before commencing to figure is to look the plan over for 15 or 20 min- utes, or longer if necessary, until you have a sort of "mind picture" of the building. The next thing in order is to view the site. It is not safe to put in a figure on a job if you have not seen the site, unless it is in a locality with which you are entirely familiar. The circumstances of site may make a good deal of difference in your prices per unit for materials. For instance, the structure may be on a side hill, or removed from the traveled road; there may be no water near, or the site may be covered with trees ; or in the case of a town or city building you may be so hemmed in with buildings as to make the handling of mate- rials very difficult. All of these things are going to affect your price and you should know them. I have often gone 100 miles to have a look at the site of some structure on which I was figur- ing, not staying at the site more than half an hour, but always coming back with enough extra information to feel amply paid for the time and expense. Next read your specifications all through, not only those parts that you intend to figure yourself, but everything. You can conveniently use the time you are traveling to and from the site for doing this. You will now have an intelligent idea of what you are about to estimate upon. 37 38 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Provide yourself with a suitable book for your estimates. I have found that the most convenient book for this purpose is one of the loose-leaf kind, with pages about 6x9 in., also having an index. Number your estimates, as for instance, No. 51; put down the title of the building, together with owner's and archi- tect's names, the date, etc. ; and as your estimate will use up several pages, number the pages. You will find that keeping an index of your estimates under the owner's or architect's name, or both, will be valuable to you if you should want some time afterward to refer to them. With the loose-leaf book you can take out several sheets and take them with you to an architect's office, home of an evening, or anywhere else without carrying the book with you. When your book becomes full you can re- move everything but your index, and by running tapes through the holes bind a hundred or so estimates and file away. Now take the plans apart, and if you have space to do it, spread out your several elevations and sections, or better still, tack them up in front of your table. Leave all of your floor plans on the table, with the foundation or cellar plan on top, first floor next, and so on. Now open your specifications at the first item, which will probably be "clearing the site." Having visited the site, you can now set a price on the work you will have to perform before you can begin your excavation. The cost of this item will be largely a matter of judgment. We will assume, for example, that it is a suburban site; perhaps there are 10 large trees to cut down and the stumps to remove, a lot of underbrush to be cut, and the limbs and brush from the trees to be burned up or otherwise disposed of. Then reason as follows: The average tree will require a day's time to cut down and lop off the limbs and brush ; to get out the stump it will take two men a day ; this makes 30 days ' time for the 10 trees. Now for the brush : After sizing it up you conclude that a couple of men can cut it all down in a day, and that it will take them another day to gather it up, together with the limbs of the trees, etc., and burn it up. Thus you have a total of 34 days' work, which, if done by laborers at $2 a day, would be $68, giving you the cost of this item. METHOD OF ESTIMATING 39 Before starting the excavation you will put up "batters," and if the work is large you will probably require the services of an engineer and his helper for a day. A few minutes' study of the plan will tell you how many posts you have got to drive and how much lumber these and the boards for them will require. Picture yourself there with a carpenter or two and a laborer, and deter- mine how long it will take to put up the batters and get the marks on them; then the cost of the lumber, plus the amount you have determined upon for labor, plus the cost of the engi- neer and his helper for a day, gives you the cost of this item. CHAPTER VII Excavation and Ground Work The common "unit of measure" used in estimating excava- tions is the cubic yard, or 27 cu. ft. Look up your sections and see how much larger than the size of the building your excava- tion will have to be on account of the projection of the footings. This determined, get the area of the building, allowing suffi- ciently all around for projection of footings, and consult your elevations for the natural grades and the depth of the cellar, taking the depth to the 'bottom of the concrete for the general cellar level, and put it down on the estimate sheet (Fig. 17, for example, sizes assumed). Now, if there is some deeper part, as, for instance, a boiler room, take this area by its depth below the former depth used. Now take your footings, which are probably below the depths just figured, taking the outline of the building first, then your cross walls, and pier and chimney footings next. Then if there are areas, bulkheads, etc., set down their dimen- sions. Continue thus through the entire excavation. Now I would advise that you do not proceed at once to carry out the result of these measurements, getting the number of yards and putting a price on them, but proceed to the next item, putting down the dimensions for it as I have done for excavation. There are several reasons for this: First, you want to get through with the plan as soon as possible, roll it up and have it out of the way. Second, you can take the estimate sheets with you in your pocket and figure up an item at your desk, at home of an evening, while on a railroad train, or any- where, in fact, that you happen to have a few minutes, thus utilizing a lot of time that you usually let go to waste. Third, I find that without the plan in front of you to distract your atten- tion, you can concentrate your thoughts upon the figuring much better, thus carrying out your results quickly and accurately. Fourth, by this method of taking off the quantities you can drop the work at any stage of the surveying of the plan or carrying out the results of the measurements and figuring the cost, by 40 EXCAVATION AND GROUND WORK 41 finishing the item you are working on and take it up again later the same day, or a week from then, a glance at your estimate sheets showing you just where you left off. Notwithstanding that I advise you to delay figuring out the u 73 /f X A 3-0 62. / X 2-6 X X /-o X 7 X -S^ /low /2. 3-4 / O X J-0 X 2-6 X /-O J-6 x St. l-o /~O X //?C;<13G FIG. 18 ESTIMATE SHEET No. 2 there are many long runs of drain, a very convenient way to take same off is to use a 5-ft. pocket tape. On a J-in. scale draw- ing multiply the number of inches of drain on the plan by 4 and you have the number of feet and no possibility of making a mistake in addition. Where roof water is taken care of by dry wells, the specifica- FOUNDATION WALLS, WALKS, GRADING 47 tion will usually tell you the depth below inlet of drain, diameter, and whether walled up or filled with coarse stone. By taking one typical well and analyzing as follows, determine the price : Typical well 4 ft. deep below inlet, 3 ft. diameter, filled to within 2 ft. of grade with coarse stone, equals 2 yd. excavation at 50 cents, about 1^ cu. yd. of stone, which can usually be gathered up around the premises (chips and refuse resulting from founda- tion and underpinning work), worth deposited in hole, say, 60 cents, representing 2 hr. for a laborer, plus 1 hr. more for a laborer to fill over and level off surplus earth, 30 cents, plus 1 hr. time for foreman at 50 cents to locate the well and oversee the operation, making total cost $2.40. If there are one or more cesspools, analyze as above and deter- mine price. I went to some length in analyzing the stonework and dry well, to give you an idea how to dissect, so to speak, anything upon which you wish to make a price. Consider each component part separately and compile the results. This method must be used to find the cost of any part or unit of measure met with in esti- mating the cost of building operations. Grading This item is largely a matter of judgment, especially if no great amount of earth is to be moved, and you do not have to purchase loam, as is usually the case in ordinary building opera- tions. Thus you size up the situation and make up your mind about how many days it would take a certain number of men to perform the work, assisted, if necessary, by so many days' work for a team, plus a foreman's time to oversee the operation. If a large job, you have excavation of a certain number of cubic- yards to bring lot to sub-grade, the purchase, teaming and spreading so many cubic yards of loam, etc., readily found by surveying the plans. You then figure out, at unit prices, the various items covering the work, for your total. Sodding is always figured by the square foot or square yard. It will vary in cost from 6 to 12 cents per foot, according to cir- cumstances. I shall not offer any explanation as to obtaining the quantity from plans, as it is a simple operation of finding areas. CHAPTER IX Brickwork If the building under consideration is a wooden structure, about all the brick necessary will be that for piers, chimneys, fire stopping, and possibly underpinning. For piers and chimneys the best way is to figure the number of brick per foot of height, multiplying by the whole number of feet. For instance, as- suming five courses to 1 ft., an 8-in. pier has 10 brick per foot, a 12-in. 22J brick, a 16-in. 40 brick, etc. Set down on your estimate sheet the number, length and size of piers and carry out result later. See page 3 of estimate sheet, Fig. 19. It may be here stated that brick from various localities vary greatly in size. The smaller brick lay up about five courses to 1 ft. The larger brick will sometimes lay up 14 in. in five courses. With the smaller ones it requires 22^ brick to lay 1 cu. ft. of wall. As this is the generally recognized number per cubic foot, I shall use it in treating the subject of brickwork; but in actual practice you will have to regulate the number of brick per cubic foot, or face foot for the various thicknesses of wall, to the size of brick you intend using. Chimneys, especially without fireplaces, are also best figured by finding the number of brick per foot in height and multiplying by total feet in height. If there are fireplaces, find the number of brick per foot in the base and multiply by the number of feet in height to the point in chimney above fireplace, where it is drawn 1 into the flue or flues, with necessary withes (partitions between flues in a chimney), proceeding with balance of chim- ney as for any ordinary one. You must also add enough brick to head over the chimney under the fireplaces and for hearths. Brick used for underpinnings comes under the head of walls ; thus the explanation on walls will cover this item. I think the best way to figure walls is to measure the face feet of each thickness, and after taking out the "outs" multiply by the number of brick per foot for each thickness. The prevailing custom in this locality is to allow openings out at about three- 48 BRICKWORK 49 quarter their size, unless they are very large, in which case we allow them out at full size. We make no allowance for very small "outs." It was at one time customary to allow the corners XV - X ^0_ X 37' 3 X 6 X. x 7 x Z' x, 7f 'x /* 3 X ^ A /< X /o / -^g~^ W IT 2.XJ? - /? '^ tfc FIG. 21 ESTIMATE SHEET No. 5 lights. Flat skylights, that is, those having only one pitch, and that about the same as the roof in which they are located, are worth in 16-ounce copper about 90 cents, and in galvanized iron about 50 cents, per foot. Ventilators add to the cost according to size and style; \ in, HOOFING AND METAL WORK CO rough plate and J in. wired rough plate glass cost about the same, thus the use of either would not affect price ; in. rough plate (not wired) would decrease the price about 15 cents per square foot of glass area (not curb opening area). As wall copings are usually of only three or four sizes, it is not difficult to keep posted on the prices they are each worth a running foot, applied to the wall, both in galvanized iron and copper. In case of any ordinary size, in either metal, the labor is substantially the same. As an example, we will work out the cost on a 24 gauge galvanized iron coping for a 12 in. wall. Al- lowing 5 in. to turn down each side of wall and bend at edge to form drip we have a total width, extended, of 22 in. The chances are that a 24 in. wide sheet of metal would be used, and if the 2 in. were cut off it would be waste, so that the metal worker would probably turn down a little more each side and use the whole sheet ; then we have 2 sq. ft. of metal at 4 cents, making 8 cents, and labor to make and apply 15 cents, making cost per linear foot 23 cents. Now, as the metal man wants a little profit, the fair cost per foot for you to figure would be 25 cents. If copper was used, the change in price would come on the difference in cost between galvanized iron and copper. To-day, with copper at 27 cents per pound, the 2 sq. ft, would cost 56 cents, thus the coping would cost the metal man 48 cents more per linear foot. If you were covering a 16-in. instead of a 12-in. wall, 4 x 12 in. more of metal would be required per linear foot, as 4 in. is one- sixth of 24 in. (the extended width used to make the coping we have worked out a price upon) we must increase the cost of the stock per linear foot one-sixth. So instead of 8 cents we have 9 1-3 cents per foot for stock, labor being practically the same, the cost is increased to 24 1-3 cents per foot. In putting the metal man's profit on to this we will take up the fraction by adding 2 2-3 cents, thus giving us 27 cents as the price to use in our estimate. You can see how easy it is, from the above illus- trations, to figure yourself the cost of skylights and copings, if you take the little trouble required to keep posted on the cost of sheet metals and get a line on labor, as performed by metal workers, by keeping your eyes and ears open and asking your metal man a few leading questions now and again. 70 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS In the case of metal cornices, bay windows, etc., the work is of such a character that the only sure way of getting a close esti- mate is to call in the metal man. While you could in most cases figure out the required amount of stock as well as the average cornice maker, only his experience can determine the probable cost of the labor. As the labor on cornices, etc., is frequently from 75 to 95 per cent, of the total cost, you might get very far astray by trying to figure such work yourself. PART III Carpenter Work CHAPTER XIV Frame, Studding and Furring As estimating the carpenter work will probably prove of more than usual interest to a large percentage of the readers of this work, I shall try to be a little more explicit and go somewhat more into details. As my estimate sheets have assumed a brick building, some of the items under the head of carpenter work will not appear on them. Nevertheless, I shall try and make the text so clear as to render it unnecessary. My observation has led me to believe that a majority of the carpenters, in estimating their work, figure out the quantities of lumber, hardware, etc., and put a price on them, and then "lump" the labor, judging, or guessing, the latter amount. Now, if a man is doing one class of work all the time, for instance, dwellings costing three or four thousand dollars, he can judge the cost with considerable accuracy ; but if he was to estimate a wooden building of an entirely different character, such as a freight shed or a coal pocket, his judgment, or guess, in the matter of labor, would probably be far astray. In the various classes of buildings, the labor bears a certain average ratio to the amount of stock. If you build a freight shed and it costs you $5 or $6 more per 1000 ft. to frame and erect same than the generally recognized cost, you have a poor crew, or they are badly managed, or both. On the other hand, if you can hold the cost down $1 or $2 from the recognized cost, you have an exceptional crew, well managed. In figuring practically all branches of carpenter work I advise the builder to determine a cost per ' ' unit ' ' installed in the build- ing. By a system of time slips, similar to the ones explained and illustrated in Chapter 25, you can soon establish labor costs upon which to base your estimates. 71 72 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Frame Under this head include all girders, sills, floor joists, rafters, and collar beams. The unit of measure I make 1000 ft. board measure. If, as probably would be the case, we had framing plans, the first thing to do is to separate them from the regular plans and elevations, putting the latter to one side for the time being. Take the first floor frame, and begin with the heaviest timber first, probably the girders. Now, on the estimate sheet put down the heading thus: Spruce (or H. P.) frame; then piece by piece set down your schedule as follows : 6 x 10 in. 3/15, 1/13, 1/10.6. ) 8 x 10 in.-l/32, 2/19, 4/16. estimate Having taken all girders, list the sills, beginning at one corner and working clear around building, continuing the schedule on the estimate sheet. Floor Joists Look over the plan and see what your largest floor joists are, usually under partitions, or trimmers and headers around stairs or other openings. Put these timbers down next. Now take off the regular floor joists, beginning at one side or the top of the plan, according to the way the joists run; taking each "bay" or division complete before proceeding to the next. In this way continue listing frame on all floors and the roof. You are probably sufficiently able to figure the schedule into board feet, so I will offer no explanations. This accomplished, we must determine the percentage of waste and add this to the net schedule. On a frame of comparatively heavy timber, if sawed to your order, the waste should not be over 10 per cent. If you do not have time to order the stock in from the mills, but must take it out of stock from local lumber yard or wharf, the Avaste will run from 10 to 20 per cent. By studying your build- ing a little to see if the time required to put in the foundation is going to permit the ordering of frame from the mills, leaving any leeway for possible delays in freight, you can make up your mind as to the waste. The prices you know or can readily obtain. Such timber as I have listed should be installed in the building FRAME, STUDDING AND FURRING 73 for from $8 to $12 per 1000 ft. board measure. Thus the cost per thousand feet in building would be about as follows : Timber per 1000, delivered at site $26.00 Labor (average) 10.00 Nails (ordinarily about 40 Ib. per 1000) 1.20 Total cost $37.20 So we carry out the price on the 14.8 M. on estimate sheet at this price. While the process just described is the most accurate, there are other methods for determining the amount of frame that are quicker, and the results are close enough for all practical pur- poses. If the plan is very regular and there is considerable uniformity in lengths of timber, I advise that you schedule the quantities as we have just done. If, however, the plan is irregular and there are all sorts of lengths of joists, the number of board feet can be obtained from the area of the floor. For instance, quite a part of the floor is of 2 x 12 in. joists, 16 in. on centers, and the balance of 2 x 10 in. joists, 14 in. on centers. Then we proceed in this manner : On a scrap of paper set down the several dimen- sions that will give you the area of that part of the floor that is of 2 x 12 in. joists, thus: 18 x 27 ft. 17 x 43 ft., 6 in. 15 x 14 ft., 6 in.; figured out they equal 1443 sq. ft. Now, if these 2 x 12 in. joists were 1 x 24 in., and they were all laid down flat, they would not only cover the 16 in. from one center to the next, but lap one- half over on the second space, thus, as the 1 x 24 in. is the 2 x 12 in. joist changed to board feet, and laid flat as above, they cover the whole area one and one-half times, so one and one-half times the area of floor occupied by these joists, or 2165 ft., is the num- ber of feet board measure (net) of lumber required. Now, by adding the percentage of waste you have arrived at a sufficiently correct result with less trouble than by scheduling. By the same reasoning any size or spacing of joists or studding can be figured into the number of feet board measure of stock required to joist 74 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS a given area. Let me demonstrate further in order to help fix this rule in your mind. Take an area of 962 sq. ft. of flooring having 2 x 10 in. joists 14 in. on centers; 2 x 10 in. changed to board measure equals 1 x 20 in. joists, thus as 14 in. is to 20 in., so is 962 sq. ft. to the number of feet board measure of timber in the floor. Put in the form of the examples in proportion you used to see in your arith- metic, it looks as follows : 14 : 20 : : 962 : answer ; and as performed by the rule of propor- 20 x 962 19.240 tion looks thus: - = rj = 1374. -f ; expressed in words, it is as follows : as to every 14 in. there are 20 in. of lum- ber, then the relation of the area (962 sq. ft.) is to the result we seek as 14 is to 20, as 14 is seven-tenths of 20, then 962 ft. is seven-tenths of the number of board feet. Work this out and you will find the result to be 1374 and a fraction, as shown by the example in simple proportion. This last paragraph is somewhat verbose, but I want the less educated of the readers to grasp the principle upon which this method of figuring is based. In using this method of figuring, do not take out the stair, chimney and other openings unless they are very large ; even then they should not be taken out of their full size, as the larger joists around the opening usually offsets the difference in board feet that would be saved if they were figured out. In figuring a first floor by this rule the girders should be added to the result obtained, and in case of a frame structure the sills also. Figuring Rafters This method is by far the quickest and most accurate by which to obtain the quantity of frame in pitch roofs, but care must be taken to add to the result thus obtained from the area, the hips, valleys and ridges. Any roof that is at all cut up with hips, gables, dormers, etc., must of a necessity have so many different lengths of rafters that the scheduling piece by piece is a laborious job; so also is the figuring of the schedule thus obtained into board measure laborious. These two facts, coupled with the fact that the roof framing plan does not show the rafters at their cor- FRAME, STUDDING AND FURRING 75 rect length, makes it almost folly to figure the amount of frame by scheduling. When we get to the subject of Boarding I will go into partic- ulars about obtaining the areas of roofs. Special Framing Any complicated framing, such as trusses, etc., should be con- sidered separately, and the price must be worked out to suit the complexity of the design. In case the building you are figuring has framing of this character, make a new heading on your esti- mate sheet, such, for instance, as "Truss Framing;" now set down under this the schedule of sizes and lengths and figure out later. The labor of framing and erecting trusses often runs from $25 to $75 per 1000 ft. board measure of stock. Next time you have a job with one or more trusses to build note the quantity of stock and keep a memoranda of the labor required. You can then figure out a labor cost per 1000 ft. that will guide you the next time you encounter something similar when estimating. Bear in mind, also, in figuring this special framing, that in most cases the stock will cost more per 1000 on account of unusual sizes and lengths, the elimination of certain defects permissible in "merchantable" lumber, the planing of the stock, etc. If you have ever kept any account of the labor required to install studding and furring in a building you doubtless found that the cost per 1000 ft. was several times that of other framing. Inasmuch as there is so great a difference in cost, I think it ad- visable to treat the two classes of frame separately on nearly all occasions. Under this head I include all wall framing, including posts and girts, all stud partitions, rafters, collar beams and hanging ceilings where the stock used is smaller than 2x6 in., strap furring on ceilings, brick walls, etc. All of the above quantities are readily obtained from the areas. Outside Walls of Frame Buildings We will begin with the outside walls of a frame building; usually there would be but two or three heights of plate. Assume the main house, two stories high, with 20 ft. posts and an ell one 7ti ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS story high with 10 ft. posts. "We begin by obtaining the girt of the main house, say 118 ft. ; this multiplied by the height, which is 20 ft., gives us the area of the outside walls of the main house. Now we have for "outs" the windows, doors, and the place where the ell adjoins the main house. As the door and window open- ings are of no great size, and the studs around them are usually heavier than the rest, we take no notice of them. Where the ell joins the main house is probably a partition, and as this will be taken with the other inside partitions later, we take the space out. Call this space 18 x 10 ft. Now take the girt of the ell, which will be three sides of it ; call it 58 ft. ; then the area of the ell walls are 10 ft. by 58 ft. For results we have : Sq. ft. 10 X 58 ft. = 580 20 X H8 ft. = 2,360 2,940 Less 10 X 18 ft. = 180 Total net area 2,760 Except for the posts and girts and around window and door openings, the wall is probably of 2 x 4 in. studding 16 in. on centers. Now, if we change our 2 x 4 in. studding to board measure we have 1 x 8 in. Thus, on 16 in. spacing, our area of walls is to the quantity of studding as 16 in. is to 8 in. As 16 in. is twice 8 in., then the wall area (2760) is twice the number of board feet in the walls. But this does not compensate for the additional frame required for posts and girts. We have allowed the area of the door and window outs to compensate for the in- creased size of studding around their openings. I have found from experience in ordinary frame buildings, with 4 x 8 in. posts and girts, 4 x 4 in. plates and 3 x 4 in. studs around openings, the area, as we have just figured it out, so nearly equals the num- ber of board feet of frame in the walls, plus what we would naturally add for waste, that if you assume the said area to be the number of feet board measure you are sufficiently correct. So under the heading of ' ' Stud and Furring, ' ' on your estimate sheet put down this item as follows : 2760 sq. ft. outside walls ; this followed by your other items of studding and furring, can be carried out into a total number of feet, board measure, and a FRAME, STUDDING AND FURRING 77 price put on same, after you have rolled up and put away the plan. // .. 2. X 3 / / 2. 3 2, 7!*!- x 3 3 t 6 H I X. (J ' .^ O' 3"* J" ^ /^.-o" T O 2.C53.Q ^Z FIG. 22~EsTiMATE SHEET No. 6 Stud Partitions In measuring the plans for stud partitions follow the same method that I have used in the case of the brick walls in the basement and the terra cotta block partitions. The chances are that the partitions will be of 2 x 3 in. and 2 x 4 in. studs 12 and 16 in. on centers, and occurring on all floors. Take the floor plan of the basement, first or other floor that you are going to measure 78 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS and begin at the top of plan, taking all partitions of 2 x 4 in. studding running horizontally as you look at the plan ; then take all running vertically, following this by taking the partitions that run in other than these two directions. On a scrap of paper set down the total running feet of partitions; now refer to the sectional plans for the height. Having found same, perform the multiplication, and the result will be the square feet of parti- tions, of 2 x 4 in. studs, for this story. Next take the partitions of 2 x 3 in. studs in the same manner. Continue throughout the entire building in this manner, floor by floor, performing all the multiplications as you go. When this is done and they are all added up you will have the total area of all partitions of each size of studding. Then we set down on the estimate sheet the resulting areas to be figured into board feet later. You will doubtless note the fact that I have paid no attention to the door openings in these partitions. As the studding is almost invari- ably doubled around openings, not considering them will com- pensate for the extra studding thus required. Using the area again as a basis from which to figure, the three items of studding I have entered on the estimate sheet result as follows : 2 x 4 in. studding changed to board measure equals 1 x 8, or 8 in. of stock to every 1 ft. of partition ; as an example in proportion expressed thus : 12 : 8 : 2364 : answer ; and performed thus, ^-^ = 1Z 18 912 1576. Our answer, as above, is 1576 ft. board measure. 8 V 1 794- 1 The next item figures as follows: * '^= = 862 ft. ID 16 6 V 844 5064 board measure. The third item as follows : ^- - = - 16 16 316J ft. board measure. The number of feet board measure for the three items of studding that we have figured out above are "net," and to them we must add a certain percentage of waste. There is no item of stock that goes into a building upon which there is as much waste as studding. Not one man in 20, in or- dering studding, gets enough to do the job once in five times. Figuring studding as above, one-fourth, or 25 per cent., will cover the waste, if the pieces are used up as they should be. FRAME, STUDDING AND FURRING 79 Furring In figuring the quantity of furring, work from the areas to be furred, determining number of board feet by proportion. In taking areas from the plan, work as follows: Take the first-floor plan (or basement plan if there is any ceiling or wall furring re- quired there) and obtain the area of same inside of walls. Of course the ceiling is of the same area as floor, thus in the floor area you have the ceiling area. Now, if any brick or stone walls are furred, obtain running feet of these walls and multiply by the height of the story. These two results added give you the total area to be furred in this story. In this manner continue throughout the entire building, adding all the areas thus ob- tained together and setting down the result on your estimate sheet as I have done. Now, using the rule of proportion again, taking the first item of furring to demonstrate same, we work out , - 2 X 11,232 22,464 the board feet as follows : ^ ' - = - - = 1404 ft. (net) . ID ID In the same manner you can figure the number of board feet, no matter what the width, thickness or spacing of the furring is. Hanging Ceiling Frequently the framework of a ceiling, where there is no attic, is of light members hung from the rafters or roof joists ; in such cases obtain the area of the ceiling from the upper floor plan and use the rule of proportion to find the quantity of stock in board feet. Thus, referring to the estimate sheet, we assume a ceiling of 1 x 6 in. rough spruce, 20 in. on centers, of 3104 sq. ft. area. This is expressed and performed by proportion, as follows : 20: 6 :: 3104: ans., = = = 931. + ft. board \J ^i(j measure.* The stock with which to hang the ceiling frame to the rafters or joists is usually refuse picked up around the building, and your estimate will be sufficiently accurate if you do not consider same at all. * All of these examples in proportion may be simplified in figuring by cancellation, but to avoid confusion I have worked them out with the whole figures. SO ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Bridging If the floor joists are cross bridged in the center of the span, proceed as follows : Beginning with the first-floor framing plan, scale each stretch of bridging, setting down on a scrap of paper ; in this way go through the entire plan and add for the total length. Assume the bridging to be 1 x 3 in. and the length measured on plans to be 964 ft. The diagonal distance between timbers (from the top edge of one to the bottom edge of the next joist) is near enough to one and one-half times the straight length to always call it so. As the two pieces of 1 x 3 in. equal a 1 x 6 in., we have one-half of one board foot for each extended linear foot of bridging. Add to 964 ft. 482, or one-half itself, to give us the extended or diagonal length of the bridging, and we have 1446 ft. As there is \ ft. board measure of each foot in length of bridging, thus one-half of 1446, or 723 ft., is the number of feet, board measure (net), of stock required. As rough spruce, furring, bridging stock, etc., frequently gets put to a good many uses, such as staying, bracing, staging, etc., before being used where intended, 25 per cent., or one-fourth, is little enough waste to allow over the net survey. As the number of board feet in all of the, items under the head of studding and furring is 6875 ft., net, and plus one-fourth for waste makes 8594 ft., we will call the quantity 8600 ft, or eight and six- tenths thousands, expressed decimally 8.6. The average cost of labor on these parts of a building, with carpenters' wages at 41 cents per hour, should be right around $20 per 1000 ft. The quantity of nails per 1000 ft. of stock will be about double that required for frame. Thus we work out a price as follows : Stock per 1000, delivered $26.00 Nails 2.00 Labor (average) 19.00 Total cost installed $47.00 CHAPTER XV Boarding and Measuring Roof Surfaces As there is quite a difference in labor between square edged and matched boards, that may be used for wall and roofing cover- ing and under floors, I think it is advisable to survey and keep quantities separate. Square edged boards are usually used for under floors, pitch roofs and wall covering. Obtaining the areas of floors and walls has been sufficiently explained under other headings, consequently I shall not go into the matter here. How- ever, not having explained the method of obtaining pitch roof ; 7 '--* --- ' --9'6---*f* FIG. 23 PLAN OF ROOF areas, I will endeavor to do so now. With most plans there is a drawing of the roof showing all ridges, hips and valleys. Where there is no such drawing the lines of the roof are sometimes in- dicated by dotted lines on the attic floor plan. Not infrequently the roof is shown in no other way than by the elevations. In case the roof is shown by either" of the first two methods, you must refer to the elevations for part of the dimensions. In order to make matters as clear as possible, I will demonstrate by a few drawings. 81 82 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS In Fig. 23 we have a roof plan. I am paying no attention to architecture in this plan ; simply drawing a roof that has hips, valleys and dormers in order to illustrate all ordinary roof forms. Figs. 24, 25, 26 and 27 are the four elevations and are of FIG. 24 SIDE ELEVATION the correspondingly numbered sides as Fig. 23. We will begin by obtaining the area of the section of roof marked A in Fig. 23. By scaling the ridge we get 32 ft. 6 in., and by scaling the roof at gutter line, paying no attention to the wing that projects 2 ft. FIG. 25 SIDE ELEVATION on this side, we get 45 ft. Now, by referring to the elevation of the front, Fig. 26, we obtain the length of the rafter, which is 17 ft. 9 in. This section of the roof, as developed in Fig. 29, is called a trapezoid. We will now obtain the area, for the time being paying no attention to the gap made by the roof over the projection of 2 ft. As the length of roof is 32 ft. 6 in. at the BOARDING AND MEASURING ROOF SURFACES 83 ridge and 45 ft. at the gutter line, we next obtain the average width. This is done by adding both of the above dimensions to- gether and dividing by 2. We find this to be 38 ft. 9 in. Thus this section of roof measures 17 ft. 9 in. by 38 ft. 9 in., making the area 688 sq. ft. Now, out of this area we take the triangle covered by the roof of the projecting wing. Refer to either Fig. FIGS. 26 AND 27 END ELEVATIONS OF THE BUILDING 23 or 24 and scale the distance across the projection where it in- tersects the main roof at the gutter line. We find this to be 19 ft. Refer to Fig. 26 and scale the distance from gutter line to the intersection of the ridge of projecting roof with main roof, which we find to be 13 ft. 6 in. Thus we have a triangle, the base of which is 19 ft. and the altitude 13 ft. 6 in. To obtain the area of a triangle we multiply the altitude (13 ft. 6 in.) by one-half of the base (9 ft. 6 in.), which gives an area of 128+ sq. ft. By subtracting this last area from the 688 sq. ft. we have the net area of this side of the roof, which is 560 sq. ft. 84 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS In order that the reader may understand the theory of com- puting the area of triangles picture in your mind a triangle such as the one we have just figured out, or the one shown in Fig. 28, which is a developed plan of the rear section of roof E. If you were to cut this triangle in two, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 28, and took the half marked X and turned it around so that it occupied the space marked X', you would have a rectangle, one dimension of which would be the altitude and the other one- half of the base of the triangle. The same principle applies when we obtain the average length of the roof section shown in Fig. 29. Here the space X, if cut off, turned around, and made to occupy the space marked X', forms a rectangle, the length of which is obtained on the line a. See Figs. 25, 29 and 30. Of course, in actual practice, you would not lay out a developed plan of the various sides of the roof, as it consumes unnecessary time. The way I should proceed to obtain the area of this side of the roof would be as follows : If the plans are not too large, spread the four elevations out on the table so that you can see them all at once and reach them with your rule to scale lengths. We will take for this illustration the side of the roof marked B in Fig. 23. Either on the roof plan, Fig. 23, or the side elevation, Fig. 25, scale with the rule the distance from gutter line to ridge. The number of feet you read mentally, at once ; half this number of feet mentally before lifting your rule and place the point of your pencil at the middle of the distance ; now holding the pencil where you placed it a moment, turn your rule around, let the side of it from which you are reading touch the pencil point and lay approximately parallel with the gutter or ridge lines, as drawn on plan. Having done this read immediately the distance from the right angled or rake end of the roof to the point on hip where the rule crosses it. The whole operation is but the work of a moment, and we have obtained the average length of FIG. 28 DEVELOPED PLAN OF RE AH SECTION OF ROOF E BOARDING AND MEASURING ROOF SURFACES 85 this section of the roof. We will not bother with inches and will call the length thus obtained 39 ft. Now, refer to the front eleva- tion, Fig. 26, and scale the length of the rafter, which, in round numbers, is 18 feet again ignoring the inches and we have obtained both dimensions of the piece of roof, B, and can com- pute the area. Thus we have 18 X 39 ft - = = 702 sq. ft. Out of this we must take the area occupied by the walls and roof of the dormer window. Refer again to side elevation, Fig. 25 scaling width of dormer ; note mentally 6 ft. ; then refer to the L 45- FIG. 29 DEVELOPED SECTION OF ROOF front elevation, Fig. 26 ; scale from the intersection of the front wall of dormer with main roof to the average or center of the dormer roof, as seen in the elevation D, Fig. 26 ; read 10 ft. and mentally calculate the area 6 x 10 ft. 60 sq. ft. Subtract the latter number of square feet from 702 sq. ft. and we have 642 sq. ft. as the area. Thus we see the whole operation is done in a minute's time, making no drawings, half the calculations being done mentally while shifting the rule from scaling one dimension to another, and a result thus obtained is sufficiently accurate for all practical purposes. Proceed in the same manner to get the area of the roof of small dormer on this side of the main roof. First refer to the side elevation, Fig. 25. Scale rafter and read 5 ft. ; now refer to either of the end elevations, Figs. 26 or 27, or to the roof plan, Fig. 23, and scale the section of roof marked D across the center (that is, half way between the dormer cornice and ridge line), and read 86 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS 8 ft., the inches again being left out of consideration. Thus one side of this roof is 5 x 8 ft., equaling 40 sq. ft., which multiplied by 2 gives the area of both sides of the dormer roof. Fig. 32 is a developed plan of one side of this dormer roof; the dotted line across it shows where to get the average length. In carrying the survey of the roof to the estimate sheet you may, if in a hurry to get through with the plan, set down the dimensions and "outs" thus: 17' 9" x 38' 9" x 2 (times) Outs. 5' x T 9" x 2 (times) 9' 6" x 13' 6" 6' 9" x 13' 6" x 2 (times) 6' x 10' 12' 6" x 17' 9" 1669 sq. ft. (net area). FIG. 30 OBTAINING LENGTH OF ROOF SECTION As it usually takes but three or four minutes to figure the area of the average roof, I think it better to make the calculations on a scrap of paper and then carry to the estimate sheet the net roof area, as follows: 1669 sq. ft. (net roof area), add to this, if the item is going on to the estimate sheet under the head of frame, the size and spacing of rafters, thus: 1669 sq. ft. (net roof area) 2 x 8 in. 20 in. o. c. Having the information on your estimate sheet as last shown, you can figure the amount of frame by pro- portion, as previously explained, and your area for boards, and shingles or slates, is right before you. Do not think, because I put down the areas accurately, not eliminating the odd inches, and figure out the result decimally, that I would do this myself in actual practice, or expect you to do it. I do it here because I do not want my mathematics criticised, and in order to carry out an BOARDING AND MEASURING ROOF SURFACES 87 exact result of the area,' as shown by the plans and elevations above referred to. It also shows to what accuracy you can go, and withooit much trouble, if there is any reason for so doing. The time to make this roof survey is when you have reached it, surveying under the head of * ' frame. " As I explained under that heading, it is necessary in computing the feet, board meas- ure, of the frame in a roof, that there should be added to the result obtained from the area the schedule, or feet board measure, of the hips, valleys, ridges, etc. I will now endeavor to show you how to obtain sufficiently accurate lengths of these members. In doing so I will use Fig. 23 of the diagrams. The lines which rep- resent the hips and valleys on this plan are the bases of right angled triangles, of which triangles the rise of the roof is the altitude and the hip or valley rafter the hypothenuse. Now if -_jk- FIG. 31 DEVELOPED PLAN OF ONE SIDE OF DORMER ROOF FIG. 32 DEVELOPED PLAN OF ONE SIDE OF DORMER ROOF we scale the length of the hip or valley as indicated on the plan of the roof, Fig. 23 from & to c, we have the length of the base of the triangles, after which refer to an elevation (in this case either Fig. 24, 26 or 27) and scale the height, or rise, of main roof, and the lower roof covered by the sections marked C. The results in this case are the altitudes of the triangles. Having the lengths of any two sides of a right angled triangle, the third can be obtained by a process in arithmetic. However, as this involves figuring in square root, and all you want is an approximately correct length of the hip or valley upon which to base an esti- mate, it may be quickly laid out and the required length obtained on the roof plan, Fig. 23. As the two hips on this plan are at right angles to one another, let one of the hips represent the base of the triangle as from & to c. As you have scaled the rise of 88 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS the main roof and found it to be 12 ft. 6 in., scale from c along the other hip 12 ft. 6 in., and make a dot with the pencil at this point (d) ; now turn your rule around and scale from & to d, as indicated by the dotted line, and the distance as read from the rule will be the length of the hip or the remaining side of the triangle called the hypothenuse. The same process applied to the valley, where the rise of roof is 9 ft. 6 in., the scale distance on the dotted line from b to d gives the length of the short valley. In the case of this roof the length of the long valley, which runs to the ridge, would be the same as .the hip. In the case of roofs of different pitches intersecting, the lines on the plans indicating the valleys would not show at right angles to one another. In such cases assume the line representing one valley to be the base of the triangle and lay off at right angles to this by your eye the rise of the roof, for the altitude of the triangle, making at the point thus obtained a dot with your pen- cil. Now scale the uncompleted side or hypothenuse of the triangle thus laid out, and you have the length of the valley. All hip and valley rafter lengths may be obtained from the plans in this way and set down piece by piece in your "frame" schedule, to be figured into board measure later. The lengths of the ridges may be scaled directly from the roof plan, Fig. 23, or from the eleva- tions, Figs. 24, 25, 26 and 27, as their true lengths are shown in each. You will probably notice that in figuring out the wall area of a typical frame house I did not include the gables. All gables being triangles, or in the case of Gambrel roofs a trapezoid sur- mounted by a triangle, I purposely delayed touching on the sub- ject until after I had demonstrated by the drawings of a roof how to obtain areas of irregular shaped planes. In actual prac- tice the gable areas should be taken off at the time of surveying the walls of the building, the total area being entered on the estimate sheet under the head of "studding." This item of stud- ding should be noted "outside walls," so that it is distinguish- able from the partition areas, thus making it possible to look back for area when figuring boarding and clapboards, or other wall covering. Sometimes under floors, and even walls, are boarded diagonally. This increases the waste somewhat, and in most cases about doubles the labor. When the above is the case, make a separate item and figure out the probable cost at which BOARDING AND MEASURING ROOF SURFACES 89 to carry out your price. I usually make a few diagonal lines after the heading of the item covering this part of the boarding to distinguish it from ordinary boarding, thus: '* J-in. square (or ni'tch'd) spruce ////." Matched boards are always used under slate, metal or com- position roofs and often for wall boarding. Theoretically there is more waste on matched than square boards, as the loss in milling and matching is surveyed in when boards are marketed. In actual practice, unless the boards are very narrow, say less than 5J in. face, the waste would not be any more than on square boards used in the same place. The principal reasons for this are that the matched boards are usually of sounder stock, more uniform in widths and lengths, and they are handled and cut with a little more care. If laid at right angles with the nailings 25 per cent, is ample waste allowance, and if laid diagonally 33 1-3 per cent, is sufficient. With carpenters' wages at 41 cents per hour, an ordinary job of square boards should cost to lay from $5 to $7 per 1000 ft. board measure. Matched boards should cost from $8 to $10 per 1000 ft. If either of the above are laid diagonally the labor would be nearly double. In case of very small jobs considerably cut up the cost would be somewhat more than the maximum price quoted above. If the building was of large, unbroken areas, the cost .should be somewhat less than the minimum prices quoted. The work upon which one is engaged must be watched to see what the costs are, and then there is established a basis upon which to work, in arriving at the probable cost of work upon which the estimate is being made. Forty pounds of nails are usually sufficient to nail 1000 ft. of boards, with studs or joists about 16" o. c. Plank Floors It is almost needless to say that if your floors were of plank you would proceed to obtain areas as for boards, not forgetting to multiply your net areas by the thickness of plank before add- ing waste. The labor per 1000 ft. board measure would be somewhat less than for 1-in. stock, as the time consumed to lay a plank of a given size, 2 in. thickness, is not double that of a board of same size. CHAPTER XVI Shingles, Clapboards and Outside Finish When you have reached this item in the specifications and en- tered it upon the estimate sheet, look back under ' ' frame, ' ' Fig. 22, and see what the roof area was. Now, knowing what 1000 shingles will lay at various distances to the weather, divide the area by this amount to obtain the number of thousands. Next size up the roof and determine the number of shingles a man should lay in a day and compute from this the labor cost per 1000. With your rule scale the lengths of valleys, dormer cheeks and any other places requiring flashings, and compute the num- ber of square feet of zinc, tin .or copper required. This settled, divide the number of square feet of flashings by the number of thousands of shingles, and thus obtain the number of feet per 1000 shingles. Having obtained all of the above, not forgetting nails, though not mentioned, tabulate, and you have the cost per 1000 laid complete, thus: Extra cedar shingles per thousand (delivered) $4.50 5 Ib. nails 20 10 sq. ft. 9-oz. zinc, 7 cents 70 Labor ( 2000 per day average cut up roof) 1.64 Cost per 1000 laid $7.04 Wall shingling would be worked out in the same manner as above, the quality of the shingles and nature of the walls to a great extent affecting the price. Clapboards In this market clapboards are sold by the 1000 pieces, 4 ft. long. Thus, if they are laid 4 in. to the weather, one clapboard will cover 1^ sq. ft. Refer to the item of "studding and fur- ring" on estimate sheet No. 6, Fig. 22, for the outside wall area. You will remember that in taking the wall area we did not figure out the windows and doors, so with the four elevations within easy reach scale and figure out the area of these openings. In do- ing* this, work in even feet, not bothering with inches. For 90 SHINGLES, CLAPBOARDS AND OUTSIDE FINISH 91 instance, if an opening scaled 3 ft. 6 in. x 5 ft. 9 in., calculate mentally 3 x 6 ft. = 18 sq. ft. Set this down on a scrap of paper, noting the number of such openings. Continue in this way throughout the elevations; then note any other "outs," such as the parts of wall that are covered by piazzas, wide belts, cornices, etc. Obtain and total all of above "outs" and subtract from the total Avail area, thus getting the net surface o be clapboarded. This divided by the number of feet one (or 1000) clapboards will cover, at the distance they are laid to the weather, gives the total number of clapboards. Usually the clapboards are laid over some specified brand of sheathing paper. Proceed, as in the case of the shingles, to work out a price per 1000 clapboards laid on wall, including paper, nails, etc. 1000 clear spruce clapboards (delivered) $45.00 Waste per 1000, 5 per cent 2.25 Paper ( 1000 sq. ft. net, plus 10 per cent, waste) , 1100 ft 5.50 Nails, 4 Ib 14 Labor (average about $20 per 1000) 20.00 $72.89 Coining, as it does, so near to $73 per 1000 laid, carry out the price at the even dollar amount. Outside Finish Under this heading we have cornices, rakes, belt courses, balus- trades, columns, pilasters, window caps, corner boards, saddle boards, water tables, brackets and so on, almost indefinitely. In some cases you can group several of these items under one sub- heading and figure at the same price per foot, thus saving time and condensing the matter on the estimate sheets. I find that in nearly all cases it is safer to figure the price per "unit" com- plete in place on the building. Let us consider each of the sub- divisions of outside finish separately. Cornices If there are several types of cornice, differing greatly in the quantity of stock and labor to construct each, make several head- ings, such, for instance, as main cornice, piazza cornice, dormer 02 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS cornice or rakes. Under each heading put down the number of feet in length of the cornice, with the additional data of the number of inches of plain stock and the number of inches of moulding, size and spacing of modillions, dentils, etc. In speak- ing of inches above, I mean board measure inches (1 x 1 in. x 1 ft.). It is possible that somewhere on the plans there will be 3 in. or 1 in. scale drawings of the principal parts of the outside finish, in which case you can scale quite accurately the various members of cornices, etc. In case there is nothing but the small scale drawings, you must be guided as much by judgment as by the plans in figuring out the inches of stock. Let us assume an ordinary cornice with wood gutter, brackets and other usual parts for the purpose of demonstration : Take the plain parts first, facia over gutter 4 in., facia under gutter 4 in., plancier 12 in., frieze, two members, one 8 in. and one 12 in., all J in. thick, these making a total of 40 in. of stock per running foot of cor- nice. Now take the mouldings : Gutter 4 in. x 5 in. = 20 in. ; gutter fillet, f in. J in. = 1 in. ; bed moulding, f in. x 3 in. = 3 in. ; frieze mouldings, one J in. x 2 in. and one 1J in. x 3 in., both equaling 8 in., these making a total of 32 in. of moulding per running foot of cornice. Next the brackets, say 3 in. thick, 12 in. long and 8 in. deep, 18 in. on centers, with face band sawed to pattern. Now let us compile the results : Sq. ft. 40 in. of % in. stock -j- 1/10 waste = 44 in. = 3^ ft. B. M., at 8 cents per foot $0.30 32 in. of moulding + % waste = 36 in. moulding, at 1 cent per inch ( less discount if any) 30 Bracket 3 x 8 x 12 in. = 2 ft. B. M. stock, -f y 4 waste = Zy 2 ft. stock, at 8 cents per foot, -j- planing and sawing (say 7 cents) = 27 cents each ( 18 in. o. c. y$ bracket per foot) .18 Cost per foot of stock $0.84 We have now worked out everything but the labor. I find that the best way to arrive at the cost per foot for labor is to look at the elevations, pick out a stretch of cornice shown on one of them, and then try and picture yourself with a good man (car- penters usually work in pairs on such work) putting on this particular piece of cornice. In doing this don't forget that you SHINGLES, CLAPBOARDS AND OUTSIDE FINISH 93 have got to build a stage; line, cut and fur the rafter ends, and pick out and get on to the stage the boards and mouldings. Sup- pose this piece of cornice to be 30 ft. long, and you conclude that with one man's help you could do all of the above preliminary work and construct the cornice in a day (8 hr.). With wages at 41 cents per hour, this means 16 hr. at 41 cents = $6.56 -^- 30 = $0.22 per foot. This represents what you could do your- self. Did you ever hire a man that could, or would, do as much work for you as you can do for yourself ? The pine and mouldings have also got to be taken from a team outside the building and carried in and piled up until used. The cornice is going to require a few nails, some elastic cement, sheet lead, etc. ; hardly enough per foot of these latter to make an item under ' ' stock, ' ' which we figured out above ; at the same time, on the whole cornice, they will cost a few dollars. Con- sidering all these things, probably 33 or 34 cents per foot will be nearer the actual cost per foot for labor and sundries than 22 cents. I have made it a rule to increase by one-half the labor on any given piece of work after having figured out what I thought I could do it for myself, assuming this increase to cover the items of stock too trivial to figure out at so much per foot (or unit), and the lost labor that goes into every job and must be provided for: I might also add that in actual practice this rule gives nearer the correct average costs than any other that I have used. Having figured (or reasoned) out the probable cost per foot of labor and sundries on the cornice, we can complete the price thus: Stock per foot of cornice $0.84 Labor and sundries .33 Total cost per foot $1.17 So on the estimate sheet under the head of "Main Cornice," described and number of feet set down, we carry out the cost at $238.68, as shown in Fig. 6. It has taken me quite a while to tell you this, but with a little practice you can figure out running foot costs on cornices in about one-half the time you will be reading my explanations and analysis. 94 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Belt Courses Belt courses can be figured out in the same manner as cornices. If several of the cornices, belts, rakes, etc., are of very similar design and size, they can be grouped in measuring, and the cost on the one cornice or belt, that is the nearest to being the average, be worked out in detail and this cost used for all. In many cases the result thus obtained will be about as accurate as though each different cornice or belt had been considered sepa- rately, and varying costs been worked out and used. Corner Boards If corner boards are of the usual plain kind they can be taken in linear feet and the number of feet by the inches in width set down on the estimate sheet. For instance, if we had a corner made of one 5-in. and one 6-in. board, both J in. thick, and found by measuring plans that there were 124 ft. in length, we would enter same on estimate sheet as follows: Corner boards (pine) J x 11 in. .124 ft. linear. The stock you can figure readily if you know the prevailing prices, not forgetting to add to the cost per foot a sufficient amount to cover waste. The labor can be worked out the same way I worked out the building of the cornice, unless you have noted the time and figured out the cost per foot on some build- ing, and thus have a basis to work from. The best way to measure the plans for corner boards is to have in front of you the first floor plan, and within sight and reach have one or more of the elevations. Now, look at the floor plan, and take a prom- inent corner, which locate on one of the two elevations upon which it will show and scale the height. Set down the result on a scrap of paper; then take the next corner (to the right or left, as you choose), locating this corner on the elevations and scale the height, setting down under the former figures. Proceed in this way around the building until you reach the corner at which you started, noting and setting down any corners showing on elevations that are not apparent on the first-floor plan, such as on overhanging second stories, dormer windows, etc., as you have the various elevations before you. Add the figures you have put down on the scrap of paper, and thus obtain the total linear feet SHINGLES, CLAPBOARDS AND OUTSIDE FINISH 95 of corner board, which latter you enter on the estimate sheet with the total width, thickness and kind of lumber. Having done this, proceed to the next item, leaving the figuring out of the cost until through with the surveying of plan. The above ex- planation for surveying plans for corner boards would apply where a building was somewhat irregular in plan and with several different lengths of corners. By checking from the floor plan you avoid the possibility of missing any corner and of get- ting any corner twice. As each complete corner appears on two elevations, there is a probability of the latter error occurring if floor plan is not referred to. Of course, if the building is per- fectly plain and all corners run to the main cornice, the latter being level all around the structure, you need only to glance at any floor plan; count the corners; lay your rule on any eleva- tion, scale the height ; multiply the height by the number of cor- ners, mentally or otherwise, and thus obtain total linear feet. Saddle Boards Saddles can be measured either on the roof plan, if there is one, upon which they all show, or from the several elevations. Some care must be used in working from elevations not to get the same stretch of saddle measured twice, as each run of saddle board will show on two elevations. Enter the total linear feet, width and other particulars on the estimate sheet in same man- ner as corner boards. Water Table This can be more conveniently measured on the first floor plan than from the elevations. In measuring begin at some one cor- ner and work around the outline of the building until you arrive at the starting point, setting down on a scrap of paper each length as obtained and adding for the total. The total number of feet, with the particulars (inches of plain stock and molding), are then carried to the estimate sheet. In ordinary frame structures the corner boards, saddle boards and water table are usually of dimensions sufficiently alike to permit of their being all surveyed together and the cost carried out at one price per linear foot 96 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Window Caps Where windows have molded caps there is usually some one of the cornices that is of about the same section, and you will find that you can simplify matters somewhat by measuring caps with such a cornice. In measuring a cap I always allow 2 ft. extra length over face measurement to cover returns. Piazza Facia The plain board or facia that goes over the sill of the piazza I usually make a separate item, and include with it the risers and face stringers of all outside steps and the base board of lattice work. Carry to the estimate sheet the total running feet and make note of the average width and thickness. Most of the measurements for all above piazza and step parts are readily obtained from the first floor plan, but if you choose the elevations may be used. In any case, you must refer to the elevations for the widths. Piazza Floors and Steps These are simple matters of areas and should be taken from the floor plans. I usually take both under one heading, meas- uring the steps double, as the treads are usually of 1 or 1^ in. stock, and the cost of labor per "square" or square foot is greater than for the piazza flooring. Of course, the result can be worked out more minutely if you make two separate items; but the step area is usually such a small part of the total area of piazzas and steps that the costs carried out will be but slightly affected if you consider them jointly. Columns and Pilasters If there are piazza columns and pilasters make a note on the estimate sheet of the number, size and description of each kind. If you are unable to figure out costs for these parts delivered at the building, you can confer with a mill man and obtain prices from him. To the price delivered should be added the cost of the labor handling and setting, thus carrying out the cost for them set complete in the building. In determining the labor cost per column or pilaster for handling and setting, apply the rule I have given for figuring labor on cornices. This rule is SHINGLES, CLAPBOARDS AND OUTSIDE FINISH 97 readily applicable to any item of outside or inside finish, and in the absence of statistics of costs obtained from actual erection of similar parts in structures you have built, I know of no other way of arriving at the probable cost. Many men take other men 's word for the cost of labor per given unit, but so few men make any attempt to prove their opinions in such things that you will do better to rely upon your own judgment. Balustrades. Balustrades can be best figured by the linear foot erected. The quantity is most readily obtained from the floor plans, but you must refer to the elevations for the style of rails and balusters. Sometimes in the absence of elevations a full description of balustrades will be given in the specifications. In analyzing a foot in length of balustrade you have 1-0 of top rail of specified section, 1-0 of bottom rail ditto, and as many balusters of the required size and spacing as it takes to make 1 ft. in. The labor you can determine by the rule I have already given. As all ordinary sizes and shapes of rails and balusters are sold at standard prices in each locality, you should experience no diffi- culty in making a very close estimate of the probable cost per foot. If the parts are of special design, you must exercise your judg- ment in working out costs, or refer the particulars to your mill man and get his prices for material delivered, to which must be added the labor. Where small posts or buttresses occur in balus- trades count same and make a price each, installed. As an ex- ample of entering columns, posts and balustrades on the esti- mate sheet see Fig. 22. Lattice. I find the most convenient way to figure lattice is by the square toot. The quantity you will have to take from the elevations, and in measuring for same remember that the border boards cover up, as a rule, almost their entire widths of lattice. The spruce framing necessary to fur for lattice work is in most cases so small a factor that it need not be considered. If, however, it should appear to you that enough furring will be required to make it worth while to take note of it, take a typical panel of 98 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS lattice, work out the number of feet board measure of furring and studding necessary for this particular panel, and then divide the quantity by the number of square feet of lattice in the panel. This will give you the quantity of furring per square foot of lattice, and in making your cost it can be put in at its value. I don't know as it is necessary to further enumerate outside finish, as I have given enough examples to enable you to sub- divide and work out costs on the numerous items under this heading. The nature of the plan's and details for these parts will have to be the determining factors in the number of sub- headings into which you will divide the work for convenience in measuring and analyzing costs. As, in the general run of good work nowadays, no two jobs will be exactly alike, judgment will be a large factor in making the unit prices. CHAPTER XVII Windows, Doors, Inside Finish and Floors Ordinarily the windows of a building are quite uniform in size and detail. This is especially true if we leave out of con- sideration the basement or cellar windows. In figuring I make one typical window the "unit" upon which to carry out the es- timated cost of the windows of a structure. In figuring the cost of a window include the frame, sashes, weights, cord, hardware, blinds and trimmings, stool, apron, casings, edge casings, stop- beads and rough grounds ; also in working out the cost of labor per window consider the labor on all of the above enumerated parts, together with the time involved in taking these materials off the teams and carrying them into the building, and the handling and distributing to the various rooms until installed. By taking a window which seems to be a fair average in size and detail and carefully working out the cost on all the parts and operations as above noted and using the cost thus obtained for all windows, the resulting figures will be, in nearly all cases, as accurate as though you had made 15 or 20 different prices for as many kinds and* sizes of windows. However, if there happens to be several very large and out of the ordinary windows, such, for instance, as a large tripple, with pilaster casings, semi-cir- cular transom, leaded or plate glass, etc., it is wise to leave them out of the general enumeration and figure the cost separately. Also if there are a number of very simple windows, such as small cellar sashes with plank frames and no inside finish, make them a separate item. Thus in the case of almost any building an accurate result can be obtained by making no more than three items of windows. The costs of stock-size and ordinary detail windows, frames and blinds are standard in every locality and can be readily ob- tained if you do not already know them. You should also have a common and plate glass price list at hand and keep posted on the discounts ; these vary from time to time, but if you are buy- ing much glass you will receive the notice of any change in dis- 99 100 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS counts from your local dealer. The members making up the finish of a window are easily figured at moulding prices, which are usually for a certain amount per square inch of section, per foot of length. As an example we will work out the cost of an average win- dow, such as would be found in the hypothetical building of which we are making a survey and estimate : 1 box frame (for brick), 15 x 30 in., 4 lights ; $ 1.75 1 window (2 sashes), \]/ 2 in. thick, No. 1 single thick glass 1.65 24 Ib. weights 42 1/5 hank cotton cord 20 1 pair No. 1 blinds, ]/ 2 roll and trimmings 1.10 1 piece stool, 7/ s x 4 in. by 4 ft. 2 in 17 I piece apron moulding, % x 4 in. by 4 ft 17 15 ft. y% x 5 in. casing 75 15 ft. J^ x 4 in. edge casings 60 II ft. 7/ x 3 in. box veneers 33 11 ft. y 2 x 2^ in. stop beads 28 3 ft. y 2 x 4J in. stop beads 14 22 ft. 24 x y 4 grounds 07 Locks, lifts and stop bead screws, etc 45 Labor (8 hours?), at 41 cents 3.28 Total cost of window installed $1 1.35 Having thus worked out a cost on, an average window, carry out the cost for all windows as shown on Fig. 33, by multiplying by the whole number. You will find that the result of using this average price will, in most cases, give a probable cost as accurate as you would obtain if you made a dozen different kinds of windows and used a separate cost on each. By including all windows in the count, calling a mullion two, and a triple three windows, etc., and not excepting the simple cellar and attic win- dows, you save yourself a lot of time, and wearisome figuring. There are almost invariably several windows in a building that are considerably more expensive than the average, and the dif- ference in cost between the cellar and other very simple windows and the average window upon which your price is based will usually compensate for the former. All I have said about windows will apply to doors, except that in many buildings it may be policy to separate doors into two or more classes. I advise that this be done in the case of doors, WINDOWS, DOORS, INSIDE FINISH AND FLOORS 101 because there are usually but two or three classes and sizes of doors in a building, and the same structure would have perhaps 20 kinds and sizes of windows. Thus subdividing the doors will not complicate matters or seriously interfere with speed in figur- ing. Take one door of each class and dissect and analyze it in the same way I did the windows. Begin Avith the grounding of rough opening and figure everything to make a complete door and trimmings installed in the building. Base and Mouldings Base and moulding should always be figured together and in running feet. In making a price per foot include grounds, base and moulding, and labor for all of these items of stock; not for- getting in determining the labor item to take into account the miscellaneous handling of the stock from a team into the build- ing and its distribution to the various parts of the structure preparatory to actual installation. If there are several kinds of base, measure each kind and work out the cost separately. In measuring the plan I find the best way to proceed is as follows: Assume part of the building to have 8-in. base and IJ-in. mould- ing of white wood and the balance 9-in. base and 2-in. moulding of quartered oak. Take a piece of paper and at top of same make memos. as follows : 9 in. -f- 2 in. quartered oak. 8 in. + iy 2 in. white wood. "Outs" "Outs" Feet. Feet. Feet. Feet. 24 6 26 7 28 9 32 16 32 7 46 9 40 ,..'" 18 . -/. ^: ./ 21 124 22 143 31 22 .... 31 102 .. 112 Now begin with the first floor plan and take a room in one corner of the plan: Scale one way, say 12 ft., double for the two sides of the room and set down 24 ft. ; then scale room the other way, double and set down; note the doors, say two, each eliminating about 3 ft. of base; under "outs" set down 6 ft. If 102 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS there is a closet to this room, take the base in this next and enter measurements under the proper heading of dimensions and kind of wood. Continue your measurements throughout the entire floor, taking the rooms in the order that the plan suggests to you as being least apt to lead to confusion. Having completed the first floor, take the second in the same way, also the third, etc., until the whole building is measured. Then, by adding up the gross measurements and "outs" sepa- rately, and deducting the latter from the former, you have the net running feet of each kind. I have carried out a few meas- urements under the headings and performed the subtraction of "outs" to show how it is done. The net amounts thus obtained can now be carried to the estimate sheet and the price per foot and total costs be figured after you are through with the plan. Sometimes a building is laid out so nearly alike on each floor that the result will be sufficiently accurate if a typical floor is measured and the quantity thus obtained is multiplied by the number of floors. Chair Rails, Etc. Chair rails, picture moulding, and all similar parts of inside finish can be measured in the way demonstrated above for base and mouldings, the total running feet in each case being carried to the estimate sheet. Where grounds are required, figure both stock and labor in making the price per linear foot installed. Clothes Closets Having, in surveying the base, taken care of the closet base, and in making price for doors included all finish and labor for same, all that is left for us to figure in an ordinary clothes closet are the hook cleats, hooks and shelf. Refer to the floor plans and count the closets, putting down on estimate sheet, Fig. 33, the number. With plans still before you pick out a closet that represents about the average size and on the figuring pad put down the number of feet of hook cleat, length and width of shelf and number of hooks as follows : 10 ft. ^ x 4j^ in. cleat. 16 hooks. 1 shelf 12 in. by 4 ft. by ^ in. WINDOWS, DOORS, IXSJDti FINISH AND FLOORS 103 Having done this, figure out the cost of these materials and determine the length of time that will probably be required by a carpenter to install same and add for a total cost per closet. It may happen that several closets included in the count of 19, as set down on estimate sheet, have a case of drawers in addition to the cleats, hooks and shelf. In this case enter on estimate 3 o . x z 3 o-o * :K ^-^ <^fy^ 3 3 J3 l^ 17 so 60 FIG. 33 ESTIMATE SHEET No. 7 sheet, Fig. 33, the number, and work out the price, complete, installed. If you are not familiar with mill work and cannot reason out a price for yourself, put down height, width, depth and number of drawers and kind of wood, and after you are 104 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS through with the plan you can telephone or visit your mill man and get his price, to which you can add labor, hardware, etc., and then carry out the cost. In the same manner all special closets, such as for china and linen, pantries and pot closets, or any small room with out-of- the-ordinary finish, may be analyzed and a cost worked out to suit the conditions found. Stairs are now usually built by men who do nothing else, and bids for the stair work of a building can readily be obtained at short notice. However, I think it is better to keep posted as to the cost of rails, balusters, newels and similar parts of stairs, and to take the trouble to see how long a man is occupied in erecting and finishing different staircases on the work, and thus prepare yourself to make sufficiently accurate costs for use in the estimates. There is such a decided similarity in stairs found in ordinary apartment houses and dwellings that in a short time you get well enough acquainted with the costs per flight to look at a flight on the plan and sections, read the specifications cover- ing it and make a price "off the reel" to use a slang phrase, as close as you could get if you figured for half an hour or called in a stair builder. Of course you cannot apply any such snap judgment to complicated and out-of-the-ordinary flights, and on such as these it may be wise to call up your mill man or stair- builder and ask some questions and prices before making out a cost yourself. And so I might go on indefinitely with inside finish, but I think I have given enough examples to "blaze the way" and your own judgment will carry you through any other items under this head that you will encounter. If you do not always feel secure in your own judgment, list the items and write down brief description ; then go and talk it over with the mill man. Then, having made a price, if you obtain the job, see how your prices work out, and thus check and correct your judg- ment. In the long run it is much more satisfactory and safer to figure this way than it is to take a lump sum bid from a mill man for all finishing materials and to try and lump the labor of installing them. You have noticed that under the various subdivisions of inside finish I include "grounds" in working out a price. This item usually appears in the specifications after "studding and fur- WINDOWS, DOORS, INSIDE FINISH AND FLOORS 105 ring," but if you were to take up the surveying of the quantity at that time you would have to go all through the plans and spend perhaps 15 minutes' time. By ignoring it then, and taking it with "doors," "base," "chair rails," etc., your survey serves you a double purpose, and it is just as easy to include the cost of grounds and labor in figuring a door, or a foot of base, as not to, and results are more accurate. Upper floors are best figured by the "square" (100 sq. ft.) laid and smoothed complete. If there are several different kinds of woods used, some having more labor expended upon them, such as in laying borders, high class smoothing, etc., each kind should be surveyed separately. In cases of this kind the best method in which to make the survey is to take the dimensions of each room or compartment separately, setting same down on a scrap of paper under the head of the kind called for. For example, assume that there are some quar- tered oak floors, 2J in. wide, matched, and that the rooms where same occur all have borders 2 ft. wide; other rooms have Rift Georgia hard pine, 2 in. wide, matched, no borders, and still more rooms with slash North Carolina pine, 4 to 6 in. wide and j Hatched ; also that all floors are laid over heavy sheathing paper, and that the oak and Georgia pine floors are to be protected as soon as completed by covering them all over with good service- able paper, which is to be renewed as often as necessary to keep these floors in condition until building is turned over to the painter. Then proceed as follows : On your figuring pad make the headings thus : " Oak, " " Geo. " " N. C. P. " Take the first floor plan and begin in one corner, scaling dimensions of this room, which we will call "Geo.," and enter dimensions under this heading. If this room was 14 ft. 6 in. x 16 ft. it would go down on the figuring pad thus : Geo. 14 ft. 6 in. x 16 ft. Take the next room or closet, scale, and enter dimensions where they belong, proceeding in this way throughout the entire floor, choosing a course from room to room that suggests itself as being least apt to lead to confusion. After all of the floors in the building have been taken in this way, a few minutes' figuring will give the number of squares of each kind, and these totals can be carried to the estimate sheet, Fig. 106 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS 34, with brief descriptions, and a cost per square for each worked out later. In taking off the floors in this manner there will probably be no "outs" worth taking into account. If there are any of consequence, note of their dimensions should be taken at the time of scaling the compartment in which they occur, and they should be entered on the figuring pad under the head of "outs" and in a parallel column with the particular kind of floor you are surveying. The results obtained by such a survey as just described will be very accurate, if any care is taken in scaling dimensions. To simplify the figuring as much as con- sistent with reasonable accuracy, work in feet and half feet only. Thus, if a room scaled 14 ft. 8 in. one way, call it 14 ft. 6 in. ; or, if 14 ft. 10 in., call it 15 ft. By the time you have been through the whole plan the differences thus made will be pretty well averaged. If there is only one kind of flooring in the building, or possibly a very little of a second kind, the survey may be made much quicker and with sufficient accuracy by proceeding as follows : Assume a rectangular plan, say, 60 x 80 ft. inside of walls, cut by partitions into numerous rooms or offices, such as would be the case in an apartment block or office building. Look at the floor plan and see about how many partitions there are running sub- stantially parallel with each dimension of the building and prac- tically continuous. Say that there are five partitions more or less continuous the 60-ft. way and four the 80-ft. way. The average partition by the time it is plastered and based, will be near enough to 6 in. to call it so. Then cut the 80-ft. dimension five times 6 in. or 2J ft., making it 77^ ft., and the 60-ft. dimensions four times 6 in., or 2 ft., making 58 ft. Then the area to have an upper floor will be 58 ft. by 77 ft. 6 in., less what "outs," such as stairways, large chimneys, small areas of tile in toilet rooms, etc., there may be. These figured out, and a net area or number of squares is obtained for one floor. If the succeeding floors are of nearly the same area, multiply by the number of stories in the building. Now, if there are a few squares or some other kind of flooring, survey same, room by room, figure a total and subtract from the grand total for the whole building. By this method the floors of a very large building can be surveyed in several min- utes. If you are hurried with your plan and must give it up to WINDOWS, DOORS, INSIDE FINISH AND FLOORS 10T some one else shortly, the dimensions can go right to the estimate sheet and the computation of areas be left until later. Having demonstrated the surveying of floors, we will work out the cost per square on the quartered oak : 100 ft. plus y 3 for matching and cutting waste = 133 ft. B. M., at $120.00 per M $15.90 4 Ih. nails, at 4 cents 10 Paper under floor ($2 per roll of 500 sq. ft.), allowing 10 per cent, for lapping and waste 44 Paper for protection (assume that floor will have to be covered twice and with paper at $1.50 per 500 sq. ft.) 60 Labor laying, smoothing and covering 8.00 Total cost per square $25.16 Now, as there will be some little handling of the flooring stock and moving of other stock and cleaning up to make room for the floor layers, I should figure $26 per square ; thus in the estimate sheet shown in Fig. 34 we carry out the cost of the 21 squares at this price. By analyzing as above, work out the cost, installed complete, of any kind of flooring. In the locality of Boston car- penters never lay floors except small quantities met with in job- bing. We let the labor of laying to a contracting floor layer at so much per square, or in some cases for a lump sum for the entire building. If such is the case in your community and you are not posted on costs, you should become acquainted with the standard prices per square charged for the various kinds of work. In every building there are miscellaneous special items or parts that must be listed and probable costs be computed. Amon 26 Elevations of Roofs 82-86 Engine and Derrick, When Required 62 Engineer (Civil), When Required 39 Entering Quantities on Estimate Sheets 41, 46, 49, 59, 68, 77, 103, 111, 124 Estimating: Book for 38 Method of Science of 132 Estimator, Arithmetic Required by 34 Ethics of Building Trade 35 INDEX 183 PAGE. Excavation and Ground Work 40 Costs of 41 Costs of in Alteration Work. 136 For Footings 40 Method of Handling 41 Unit of Measure 40 Expenses . . . 123 Fixed 125, 173 In Alteration Work 145 Overtime Work 133 Sundry 123, 125 Face Brick Work 52 Figuring Quantities, When to Do So 40 Short Methods 128 File for Time Slips 167 Fire-Places : How Shown on Plans 22 Rough 48 Fireproofing of Iron Columns 109 Fireproofing with Plastering 108 First Floor Plans: Analysis of 18 Explanations of 9 Fixed Expenses 125, 173 Flashings 90 Floors: Analysis of Cost 107 Concrete and Granolithic 45, 137 Figuring Frame of 72, 73 Lowering Existing Floor 144, 147 Plank 89 Reinforced Concrete 60 Terra Cotta 57 To Compute Areas 105-106 "Outs" 106 Wood 105 Flue Linings 54 Cost of 54 How Entered on Estimate Sheets 49 Footings, Concrete 43 Excavation for 40 Foreman, Wages, Duties, Etc 153, 163 Forfeiture and Bonus 154 Foundation, of Concrete 136 Plans, Analysis of 12, 13, 14 Walls 44 Frame : Cost per Thousand 73 Estimating Quantities 73 Quantities, by Rule of Proportion 74 Figuring Rafters 74 Method of Scheduling 72 Partitions 75 Percentage of Waste 73 Short Methods of Computing. 73 Sills, Joists, Girders, Etc 72 Special 75 184 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Frame: Continued. PAGE To Enter Quantities on Estimate Sheets 68 Trusses 75 Walls 72 Furring: Computing Quantity 79 Cost of 80 Method of Entering Quantities on Estimate Sheets 77 Gables, to Find Area of 88 Galvanized Iron Work 67 Gas-Piping ' 120 General Contractor 35, 175 Girders 72 Grading 47 Granite, to Enter on Estimate Sheets 59 Trimmings 55 Granolithic Floors and Walks 45 Grounds , 104 Ground Work 40 Handling Materials on Site Work 80, 150 Hangers 63 Hanging Ceilings 79 Hatching, Cross 8, 32 Heater, as Shown on Plans 8, 10 Heating 121 Heating, in Alteration Work 143 Hips and Valleys, Length of 87, 88 Hoisting Apparatus 62 Inside Finish 107 Alterations 141 Painting of 118 Iron and Steel: Fireproofing with Wire Cloth and Plaster 108 In Alteration Work 139 Setting Under Difficulties 139 Structural and Ornamental 63 To Enter on Estimate Sheets 59, 68 Joists 72 Judgment in Costs 42, 132 Keeping a Journal on Large Jobs 164 Stock Records on Jobs 169 Time 163 Knowledge Required by Estimator 34 Labor, Carpenter, Ratio to Stock 71 Large Scale Details 28-31 Lathing, Wire 108 Lattice Work 97 Length of Hips and Valleys 87, 88 Letters, Keeping Copies of 155 Lighting, as Shown on Plans 10 Electric 121 Specifications 121 Lime Stone .' 55 Cost, Setting, to Prevent Discoloration 55 Linen Closets 104 Linings for Chimney Flues 54 Lockers and Sheds 123, 151 Lumber, Checking Quantities on the Job 160 INDEX 185 PAGE. Marble, Mosaic and Terrazzo Work 64 Work, Alterations in 140 Marks, Witness 13 Masonry, Cost of Cleaning and Pointing 52 Materials, Delivery of 149 Handling of, on Site of Work 80, 150 Measure: Unit of, for Excavation 40 Unit of, for Roofs . . . , 66 Unit of, for Stone Work 44 Measuring Flat Roofs 66 Metal Work 65 Alterations in 140 Skylights 67 Mosaic, Marble and Terrazzo Work 64 Work, Alterations in ." 140 Moulding, Base 101 To Make Schedules of 161 Office Duties 151 Orders to Foreman 158 "Outs": In Brick Work 49 In Plastering 110 In Terra Cotta Floors 56 Partitions 58 Wood Floors 106 Outside Finish 91 In Alteration Work 141 To Enter on Estimate Sheets 77 Outside Steps 96 Outside Walls, How Shown on Plans 19 Overtime Work, Expense of 133 Painting 116 Blinds 117 Cost per Yard 116 In Alteration Work 142 Inside Finish 118 Method of Computing Surfaces 116 Plastered Walls 117 Pantries 104 Partition Walls 51 Partitions: Alteration to Existing 146 How Shown on Plans 19 Of Studding 77 Temporary 134 Terra Cotta 57 Pay-Roll, Handling of 173 Piazza Facia ' ; . . . 96 Floors and Steps 96 Pilasters 96 Piling and Cutting Piles 42 Capping 43 Plan: Definition of 7 Reading 34 Plank Floors 89 Plans, Office, Handling of 153 186 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS PAGE. Plastering 108 Computing "Outs" 109 Cost of, Under Difficulties 142 Drying 114 For Fireproonng Iron and Steel 108 In Alteration Work 142 Measuring Plans for Quantity 109 Ornamental 108 Patching 142 Short Method of Computing Quantity 112 Surveying Ill Plumbing 120 Fixtures as Shown on Plans 23 In Alteration Work 143 Pointing Masonry 52 Profit 125 In Alteration Work 1 43 Proportion, Example of Use of Same 74 Pumping and Shoring 42 Rafters, Figuring Quantity 74, 88 Razing 133, 145 Reading Plans 34 Reinforced Concrete Floors 60 Remodelling, Cost of 132 Rents, High, in Cities 144 Responsibility of General Contractor 175 Roof Lines on Plans 25 Roofing, Alterations in 140 Roofing and Metal Work 65 Composition 66 Computing Quantity of Frame for 86 Copper, Tin, Etc 66 Elevations and Plans 81-87 Entering Areas on Estimate Sheets 86 Flashings 66 Measuring Surfaces 66, 82, 84, 86 Metal, to Enter Quantities on Estimate Sheets 68 Slate 65 Saddle Boards 95 Salvage in Old Materials 134 Scale, Explanation of Schedules, to Make Same of Mouldings 161 Science of Estimating 132 Second Floor Plans, Analysis of 23 Sectional Drawings 8, 14, 16, 32 Sheds, Lockers, Etc. 123, 151 Shingles 90 Analysis of Cost 90 Flashings Required 90 Shoring and Pumping 42 Shoring, Example of Cost 145 In Alteration Work 134 Short Methods of Computing Floor Frame Computing Plastering ' 1 Figuring Buildings 128 Sills 72 Sizing Walls for Painting 117 Skeletons in Terra Cotta Partitions 58 INDEX 18? PAGE. Skylights, Metal 67, 6b Slate Roofs 65 Sodding 47 Specifications, Their Relations to Plans 9 Square, a Unit of Measure 105 Stairs 104 As shown on Plans 20, 2 1 Steam Hoisting Apparatus 62 Steel and Iron Work 61 Analyzing Costs in Special Cases .. . 62 Cost of Painting 61 In Alteration Work 139 Setting 61, 139 To Enter Quantities on Estimate Sheets 59 To Obtain Costs 61, 63 To Obtain Quantities 61 Steps, Outside 96 .Stock, Keeping Record for "Unit Costs" 169 Stone Work: Analysis of Costs 45, 171 Building Trimmings 55 Cut, in Alterations 138 Entering Quantities on Estimate Sheets 55 Foundation Walls 44 Limestone 55 Pile Cappers 43 Underpinning 45 Unit of Measure 44 Studding and Furring 75 Entering Quantities on Estimate Sheets 77 Estimating Quantities 76, 78 Methods of Measuring 77 Sub-Contracts, Letting Same 149 Sundry Expenses 123, 124 Superintendence of Alteration Work 157 Superintendent, Duties of 153 Telephone, Necessity on Job 152 Temporary Closing of Buildings 114 Temporary Partitions 134 Terra Cotta: Building Trimmings 56 Floor Construction 56-57 In Alteration Work 138 Mortar for 57 Partitions 57 To Enter Quantities on Estimate Sheets 59 Terrazzo Floors, Cost of 64 Marble and Mosaic Work 64 Time-Keeper, Duties of and Necessity for 164 Time Slips, Example of 167 Tin Roofs 66 Trade Ethics 35 Trees, Removal of 38 Triangles, to Find Area of 83 Truss Framing, Cost of 75 188 ESTIMATING THE COST OF BUILDINGS Unit of Measure: PAGE. For Excavation 40 For Stone Work 44 For Roofs 65 For Upper Floors 105 Underpinning of Brick 50 of Stone 45 Unwritten Law of Building Trade 35 Upper Floors 106 Valleys and Hips, to Find Length of 87, 88 Value of Reliable Data 138 Ventilators, Metal 69 Visiting Site of Alteration Work ; 132 Visiting Site of New Work 38 Visits to Jobs 155 Wall Copings, Metal 69 Framings, Measuring and Computing 75 Estimating Quantity of 76 Watchman 123 Waterproofing of Brick Walls 53 Water Table 95 Windows 99 Analysis of Cost 100, 172 As shown oh Plans 19 Caps 96 Mullion and Triple 100 Temporary Closing 114 Wire Lathing 108 Wiring, Electric Light 121 Witness Marks 13 Work at a Distance , . . 163 A FEW GOOD BOOKS ON ESTIMATING - SPECIFICATION WRITING Hicks' Builders' Guide, 1913 By I. P. HICKS Presents a system of simple and practical application for esti- mating materials and labor chiefly as applied to suburban residential work. One of the most serviceable books for contractors and builders as well as for carpenters, who will find it to contain also a very complete treatment on framing roofs of all descriptions. The "Guide" was designed by a man who understood the needs of the young carpenter and builder, and the knotty problems of the daily work are solved in the simplest and best ways. Twentieth thousand. 168 pages. Size 5 x 6 3-4 ins. 114 illustrations. Cloth. Price, $1.00. Estimating Frame and Brick Houses, Barns, Stables, Factories and Outbuildings By FRED T. HODGSON, Architect The book aims to give a careful consideration to all the items and elements of cost in construction, beginning at the foundation of the building and progressing to the finished structure. Young contractors and builders especially will find it to cover the subject in a plain, practical way, with detailed consideration of cost factors, items and quantities. There is a detailed estimate of a $5,ooo house and additions: detailed estimates of kitchen, dining room, parlor, den, halls, bed- rooms, conservatory, basement, bathroom, closets, etc., all figured out and measured by the quickest and simplest methods. The author also tells how to estimate by cubing, by the square of floors or walls, and by the process of comparison, and gives hints and practical suggestions for taking measurements and making tenders for work. 248 pages. Illustrated. Size, 5x6 3-4 ins. Cloth. Price, $1.00. Estimating By EDWARD NICHOLS Tells how to go about making an estimate intelligently. As a practical example, a complete plan of a house is given, and the estimates of cost are worked out from this, with bills of material and working data. 140 pages. 14 full-page plates. Cloth. Price, $1.00. CONTRACTORS AND BUILDERS HANDBOOK By WM. ARTHUR matter which branch of building operation you may be interested in, you are sure to find this new reference work of exceptional value. It covers everything that the contractor and builder, architect or owner has to think about from the operation of the latest building law to the figuring of overhead expenses and the insuring of work against fire, etc. There are hundreds of ways of los- ing money in building if one is not careful, and the information given in this book will enable you to avoid them. Much new matter on construc- tion with specially prepared tables is included. The author has been ac- tively engaged in the building busi- ness as architect, contractor, consult- ing expert and appraiser for many years and he has treated his subject simply and thoroughly. The young man just starting in business will find this book equal to years of experience. CONTENTS Relations Between the Contractor and the Architect; Relations Between the Contractor and the Owner or Real Estate Agent ; Relations Between the Contractor and Dealers and Subcontractors ; Relations Between the Contractor and his Workmen ; Reading Plans and Specifications ; The Preparation of Estimates ; Building Contracts ; Nature of Contracts ; General Contracting or Subletting ; Method of Work ; Buying of Material ; Best Paying Work ; Specu- lative Building or Ready-made Houses ; Office Equipment ; Book- keeping ; About Keeping Costs; Builders' Law; Insurance and Bonds; Hand and Machine Labor; Weights, Measures, and Their Use; Foundations; The Superstructure: (i) Walls and Masonry; (2) Floor Loads; Loads upon Posts, Columns. Lintels, Rods, and Ropes ; Concrete Forms and Work ; Construction Notes from the San Francisco Fire; A Short Chapter; Fire Loss and Safe Building; Where to Locate; The Ideal Education for a General Contractor; The High Schools, Libraries, and Tradesmen; A Little Library; Big Contracts; Miscellaneous. 384 Pages, 4^ x 7^ inches, Illustrated, Flexible Cloth, Round Corners, Stained Edges. Price $2.00 Delivered THE 1913 EDITION OF THE NEW BUILDING ESTIMATOR By WM. ARTHUR IS a modern working guide for all who figure the cost of building construction, either in detail or approximately. It gives the actual time, labor and material required on every operation, in all classes of resi- dential and municipal work, 'as re- corded and checked by the author and other experts on thousands of jobs, finished under varying condi- .tions, in different sections of the country. Special stress is laid on those items that are affected by vary- ing conditions and the reasons for the difference, as found by experi- ence, are given. While particularly intended for the every-day use of contractors, build- ers, architects and engineers, this book, because of its practical nature, is indispensable to the insurance ad- juster and appraiser. The new edition contains 744 pages, but by the use of thin paper is reduced to pocket size. Part I. deals with Approximate Estimating, and Part II. with Detailed Estimating. It is very comprehensive, and covers all work and materials entering into building construction. The chapter on Reinforced Concrete work gives the actual cost, w r ith illustrations, of all the latest types of construction used by the Aberthaw, Ferro-Concrete, Trussed Concrete Steel, Hy-Rib, Hennebique and Roebling Construction Com- panies, with full information as to cost of forms, quantity of material, labor required, etc. The large amount of valuable data added on Ornamental Iron Work, Stairs, Concrete, Apartment Houses, Compara- tive Costs, etc., makes the new edition well worth the price, even to those who have the last previous one. 744 pages, Freely Illustrated, Flexible Leather Binding, with Round Corners and Full Gilt Edges. PRICE $3.00 NET DELIVERED Handy Estimate Blanks By A. W.-JOSLIN These blanks have been prepared with the idea of furnishing to contractors and builders a convenient form upon which to make an estimate and record of cost of work which they figure on and execute. Space is provided for recording all the material usually required on Residences, Schools, Stables, Garages, Apartment Houses, small Factories, and Office Buildings. 32 pages, 71-2x10 ins. Paper. Price, 25 cents each; $2.50 per doz. Contracts and Specifications By J. C. PLANT A practical working guide for the contractor, architect and owner. With forms and an explanation of duties and responsibilities incident to public and private contracts. 130 pages. Fully illustrated. Cloth. Price, $1.00. Hicks' Specification Blanks for Frame or Brick Buildings Covers everything in the building ; carpenters' work, masonry, hardware, plumbing, heating, painting, tin and sheetmetal work, etc. 18 pages; size, 8 x 13 3-4 ins. Single, 35 cents; per dozen, $4.00. Eureka Building Specifications Embraces all the labor and materials necessary in the erection and completion of the building in all its parts. Class B For frame Dwellings of Moderate Cost, with Plumbing and Heating. Price, 40 cents. Class D For Brick Dwellings, with Plumbing and Heating. Price, 50 cents. How to Read Plans A simple, practical explanation of the meaning of various lines, marks, symbols, etc., used on working drawings. 104 pages ; 81 figures and a complete set of plans for a frame cottage. Price, 50 cents. Send for our complete catalogue and let us help you find what you want All books listed are sent post or expressage paid on receipt of price by DAVID WILLIAMS CO. THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY OVERDUE. AUg 22 1935 LD 21-100m-8,'34 293073 4^ UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY