'Ira VMS in BRiriSH East Africa 
 
 Zanzibar 
 
 m:0 
 
 %, 
 
 AND 
 
 Pemba 
 
 W.WA.Fitz Gerald
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 TRAVELS IN THE COASTLANDS 
 
 BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 AND THE ISLANDS 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA
 
 [/•'ipiitis/iicic
 
 TRAVELS IN THE COASTLANDS 
 
 OF 
 
 BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 AND THE ISLANDS 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 THEIR AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES AND 
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 WILLIAM WALTER AUGUSTINE FITZGERALD 
 
 KKLLOW ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, FELLOW ROYAL COLONIAL INSTITUTE 
 
 [VITH MAPS, ILLUSTRATIONS, AND APPENDICES 
 
 LONDON 
 
 CHAPMAN AND HALL, Ltd. 
 
 1898
 
 Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, 
 London & Bungay.
 
 DT 
 42' 
 
 F57-t 
 
 To 
 
 SIR JOHN KIRK, 
 
 G.C.M.G , 
 
 GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETV, 1882, 
 
 LATE H. M. CONSUL-GENERAL AT ZANZIBAR, 
 
 BRITISH I'LENirOTENTIARV, INTERNATIONAL SLAVERY CONFERENCE, 1889, 
 
 MEMBER OF THE UGANDA RAILWAY COMMITTEE, 
 
 WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO DEVELOP THE COMMERCIAL RESOURCES 
 
 OF RRITISH EAST AFRICA BY THE DISCOVERY OF MANY 
 
 USEFUL PLANTS AND PRODUCTS, 
 
 A\D WHOSE WRITINGS HAVE SUPPLIED MUCH VALUABLE INFORMATION 
 
 FOR THIS WORK., 
 
 WHICH OWES ITS EXISTENCE TO HIS ENCOURAGEMENT, 
 
 The following pages are, with very sincere regard, 
 
 Inscribed. 
 
 1364379
 
 J 
 
 Choprnxm, ItBaiL.LltL. H JS«ra4jstttJL ^Jtanaan^J^C
 
 PREFACE 
 
 The following pages record the result of my two 
 years' explorations of the British East African coast- 
 lands, while specially employed to report on their 
 agricultural capabilities by the Directors of the late 
 Imperial British East Africa Company. 
 
 Since my return in 1893, I have strongly desired 
 to bring into public notice the great capabilities of 
 this still comparatively unknown portion of our East 
 African Empire. 
 
 In the anxious search for new markets, caused by 
 the Trade rivalry of the present day, the fact is not 
 sufficiently realized that, along the 400 miles of sea- 
 board within our sphere, there exists a wonderfully 
 fertile country only awaiting the advent of English 
 energy, capital, and enterprise for its development, and 
 the exploitation of such products as Rubber, Cotton, 
 Ivory, Copal, Jute, Fibres, Hides, Cereals, Oil-seeds, 
 Copra, etc., while the forests contain many valuable 
 woods. The climate varies from tropical on the Coast- 
 lands to bracing, frosty, and cold on the high inland 
 plateaux.
 
 X PREFACE 
 
 I have entered very fully into the matter of soils 
 and commercial products, hoping- this book will prove 
 of real use for reference to future settlers, whilst still 
 affording some matter of interest to the general reader, 
 
 England owes a debt of gratitude to the Imperial 
 British East Africa Company, to whose pioneer work 
 and efforts we owe the possession not only of this 
 fertile country, but of Uganda itself, and whose advent 
 brought "Light and Liberty" to the native and the 
 slave. 
 
 The portion dealing with Zanzibar and Pemba is 
 an enlargement of my report ' On the Spice and 
 other Cultivation of Zanzibar and Pemba Islands,' 
 Foreign Office Miscellaneous Series, No. 266, 1892. 
 
 My acknowledgments and thanks are due to H. M. 
 Under Secretary of State for India, for kind permis- 
 sion to republish Mr. Robert Cross's ' Reports on the 
 American Rubber Trees,' a permission rendered doubly 
 valuable by the fact that they are now out of print. 
 
 To the Controller of H. M. Stationery Office, and 
 Mr. Thistleton Dyer, Director, Royal Gardens, Kew, 
 for allowing the use of notes and extracts from the 
 various Kei<o Bulletins, the number dealing with 
 ' Bowstring Hemp ' being also out of print. To Sir 
 Arnold Kemball, K.C.S.I., K.C.B., the Chairman, 
 and other Directors of the late Imperial British East 
 Africa Company, for placing at my disposal many 
 valuable documents and reports.
 
 PREFACE xi 
 
 To Mr. P. L. McDermott, late Secretary of the 
 same, for his help and assistance. 
 
 To Mr. Ernest G. Ravenstein, F.R. M.S., Chairman 
 of the British Association Committee on the Climat- 
 ology of Africa, for the valuable meteorological and 
 climatological returns courteously placed at my dis- 
 posal. 
 
 To the Rev. W. E. Taylor, C.M.S., Mombasa; 
 Mr. John Christie, of Messrs. Ide and Christie; the 
 editor of The Times, and others, for kind permission 
 to use extracts. 
 
 To Mr. E. Heawood, M.A., of the staff of the 
 R.G.S., for his kind aid in revising this work for the 
 press. 
 
 My thanks are also due to Mr. E. A. Reeves, 
 Assistant Map Curator, R.G.S., for his careful and 
 excellent preparation of the maps from my bearings, 
 sketches, and notes. 
 
 W. W. A. FitzGerald. 
 
 January 1898. 
 Carrigorau, 
 
 Neiuinarkc/'O/i-Fcfgi/s, 
 Co. Clare.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Part I.— THE MAINLAND 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 THE COAST-LANDS Of BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 I'ACE 
 
 General Appearance — ^ Vegetation — Rivers and Harbours — Rain-fall 
 — Prevailing Winds — Temperature — Relative Humidity — Popu- 
 lation I 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 ARRIVAL IN AFRICA— JOURNEY TO THE MAGARINI SHAMBAS 
 
 Landing at Mombasa — Scope of my Mission — Departure for Melindi 
 — Interviews with the Liwalis of Melindi and Mombrui — Ground 
 Cultivation, Coco-nuts — Start for Shambas — Sabaki River — 
 Mombrui— First Night in a Slave Village — Native System of 
 Agriculture — Labour Question — Cotton — The Wanika — Scarcity 
 of Water Supply — The African Slave 12 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 LIFE AT MAGARINI 
 
 Friendliness of the Liwalis— Nasur bin Suliman's Shambas — 
 Charming Country — Commissariat Troubles — Choice of Head- 
 quarters — Silence of the African Night — Shambas under my 
 Supervision — Luxuriant Vegetation — Proposed Improvements — 
 My Native Staff — Engagement of Head-man — M'Doro the Nika 
 Head-man — Native Path to Melindi — The Jorori River — A 
 Ducking — Dum Palms — Native Clearings — Suitability of the 
 Soil for Cotton — Ferry over the Sabaki — A Primitive Bridge — 
 Return to the Shambas 33 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 FIRST EXPERIENCES ON AN EAST AFRICAN SHAMBA 
 
 Preliminary Troubles — Incendiarism — A Refractory Native — A 
 " Shauri " — An Encouraging Change — A Valuable Ally — My 
 Wanika Labourers — Agricultural Seasons — Seed-time and Har- 
 vest — Various Products — A Large Muster — Daily Routine — 
 Harvesting Bananas — Natives' Dislike of Rain — A Reformed 
 Character — Visits of Inspection — Site for Experimental Nurseries 
 — A Good Start — Proposed Tour up the Sabaki — Preliminary 
 Arrangements — Final Instructions — Personnel of my Party — First 
 Night in Camp 52
 
 CONTEXTS 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 C.ONGOXI, RAS N'GOMANI, AND THE ORCHELLA WEED ^DISTRICT OK 
 
 MARERENI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 A Polite Head-man — Cultivation — Rapid Growth of Silk-cotton 
 Tree — Guniah System of Agriculture — A Primitive Telephone — 
 Salt Deposits — A Sandy Waste — Scarcity of Firewood — Ras 
 N'Gomani Fisher-folk — Shark's Flesh as Food — Abundance of 
 Game — Mangrove Timber — Waiting for Canoes — Bad Marks- 
 men — Shallow Back-waters — Casuarina Trees — Flat Grass Plains 
 — Marereni — Orchella Weed — Great Heat — Elephant Tracks — 
 Rich Soil — Back to Mombrui 73 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 JELORI— THE GIRYAMA TRIBE 
 
 Arab Hospitality — Shamba Accounts — Proceed to Melindi — Stalking 
 a Turtle — Preparations for Sabaki Expedition — Start for Jelori— 
 Fertile Country — Large Coco-nut Plantations — Mr. Weaver's 
 Road — Sekoki Hill — The Sabaki — Lake Jelori — C. ^L S. Station, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Hooper — Exploration of the Lake — Giryama 
 Villages — Sansevieria Fibre— A Hippopotamus Hunt — Village 
 in the Forest — Shauri with the Wa-Giryama — Canoeing after 
 Hippo — The Wa-Giryama and their Country 85 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE SOUTH side' or THE SABAKI RIVER 
 
 Leave for Merikano — Useless Head-men — Difficult Marching — A 
 Land of Swamps — " M'Lengo-Baya" — First Sight of Wa-Galla — 
 The Watoro — Camps in the Forest — Hyphsne Palm Toddy — 
 Watoro Cultivation — Makongeni Stockade— The Runaway-sla\e 
 Settlements — Reception by the Watoro — Trouble with my Askaris 
 and Wanika — Cowardice of Old Jubah — Exploration up the 
 River — Lost in the Bush — A Proud Cook — " Roughing it " — ■ 
 Back to Makongeni 116 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 MAKONGENI TO TAKAUNGU via FULADOYO — THE GIRYAMA COUNTRY 
 
 The Journey to the Coast — Vicissitudes of Native Family Life — 
 Slave Traffic amongst the Native Tribes — Thorny Jungles — 
 Mangea Hill — Heat and Thirst — An Old Camp of Lugard's — 
 Collapse of the Wanika — The White Man an Object of Curiosity 
 —Masai Raids — Agriculture among the Wa-Giryama — Extensive 
 Forests — Fuladoyo — Town of M'Tanganiko — Wanika Settlers 
 — The Livvali of Takaungu — Indiarubbcr \'ines — Arrive at 
 Takaungu 13°
 
 CONTEXTS XV 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 TAKAUNGU — ROKA — .M'SHAKA IN THE INDIARUIilSER DISTRICT 
 
 I'AOE 
 
 Takaungu and its Chief Products — A Drunken Brawl — M'Narani — 
 Kilifi Bay— Cross to M'Tondoa — Wild Cotton— Thick Forest — 
 Roka — Coral Rock — M'Shaka — Among the Rubber Vines — 
 Method and Time of Collecting- — The East African Rubber 
 Trade 141 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 C.U-M-COPAL TREES — AROBOKO TO MELINDI— SEARCHING FOR A SLAVE 
 
 CARAVAN 
 
 Gum-copal Trees — Aroboko — A Well-cultivated Valley — Wasania 
 Village — Return to Melindi — Pay off my Men — Untrustworthi- 
 ness of Ali bin Jumah — Small Troubles — News of a Slave Caravan 
 — Once more on the March — -The North Bank of the Sabaki — 
 The Wakamba Tribe — Guarding the Roads — River Fords — A 
 Trackless Wilderness — Arbagundi — Camping under Difficulties 
 — Native Simplicity — The Wa-Galla — Insect Plagues — Crocodile 
 and Hippo Lakes — A Village Fire — Snakes — Back to Jelori . . 153 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 A THREATENED RAID — MV EXPEDITION TO NO. 2 STOCKADE 
 
 A New Commission — Grateful Arab Ladies — Ali bin Jumah — 
 Departure for No. 2 Stockade— The " Siafu'' Ant — An Exciting 
 Report — A Hurried Return — Organize a Reconnoitring Party — 
 Native Allies — A False Alarm — A New Start — Oppressive Heat 
 — Centipedes and Scorpions — Troubles with the Watoro — Our 
 Plans — The North-east Rains — March up the Sabaki — Thick 
 Forest— The Sabaki River — Camp in the Bush — Masai War- 
 paths — Difficult Progress — Characteristics of the Country — Game 
 Tracks — Reach the Stockade at last 174 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 AT NO. 2 STOCKADE ON THE SABAKI RIVER 
 
 -At Work on the Stockade — Climate — The Return Journey — The 
 Sabaki in Flood — Weaver's Road — A Flooded Country — Makon- 
 geni again — Damp Quarters — Moscjuitoes — Back to the Stockade 
 — Lions— Carrying up the Stores — Meet Mr. Foaker — M'Soma 
 and the Arabs— A Memorable Christmas — Tobacco and Castor - 
 oil Plants — Illness of Weaver — Sabaki Flies — Arrival of the 
 Survey Caravan — Unwonted Luxuries — Runaway Porters — A 
 Long March — An Ofter to the Watoro — Giryama Customs — The 
 End of my Expedition 190 
 
 ^
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 SUGGESTIONS TOR JHK DEVELOPMENT OF THE COAST-LANDS AND 
 SAP.AKI DISTRICT 
 
 I'AOK 
 
 Fertility of the Country — The Coast-lands — Declining Cultivation — 
 The Labour (Question — Tamul Coolies — Ploughs and Draught 
 Animals — Products — Cotton — Coco-nuts — Bananas — Silk-cotton 
 Trees— Mangrove Timber — The Sabaki as a Water-way — Irriga- 
 tion — Timber — Indiarubbcr : the various species — Nutmegs and 
 Cacao — Castor - oil — Fibre-producing Plants (^Sajtscinerias) — 
 Prices of Fibres — Ramie Grass — Pineapples 204 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 INIAGARINI— JOURNEY TO MOMBASA', 7W ROKA AND KONJORA 
 
 Cotton — Acting as Arbiter — The Watoro Register— Start for Mom- 
 basa — The Hot Season — Roka — Brackish Soils — Konjora and 
 its Creeks— M'Tanganiko — Kilifi Creek — Experiences on Board 
 a Dhow — Visits to Zanzibar and Pemba 237 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 SHAMBA LIFE— JOURNEY TO MOMBASA AND BACK 
 
 An Unpleasant \'oyage — Mr. Weaver becomes my Assistant — The 
 Wet Season — Rain-gauge — Shipment of Copra — Transport 
 Questions — Rats and Snakes — Revisit Jelori — Change in the 
 Attitude of the Watoro — Somali Children — A Hard March — 
 Lions — Watamu — The N'Zovoni River — Meet Bishop Tucker at 
 Frere Town — Mombasa again — Rabai Mission Station — Through 
 the Giryama Country — An Enthusiastic Reception 232 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 LAKE KRAWA 
 
 Nubian Labourers — Proposed yisit of Sir Gerald Portal — Start to 
 explore Lake Krawa — Arab Shikaries — My Caravan Astray — A 
 Long Fast — Oil Palms — Lake Krawa and the Kilifi River- 
 Game — Mosquitoes— Reconnoitring the Country — Return to the 
 Shambas — Scarcity of Grain — Disinterested Arabs — Flooded 
 Back-waters — Dead Beat — Sir Gerald Portal's Mission to Uganda 
 — A Shooting Party — A Lion Story — Christmas at Mombasa — 
 A Wretched New Year's Day — Fever — Mango Crop — Mr. 
 Wca\er's Work at the Shambas 295 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 JOURNEV_FROM MOMBRUI TO THE TANA RIVER Via OONGONI, 
 MARERENI, AND LAKE KRAWA 
 
 My Expedition— The Coast-lands north of Mombrui— Scarcity of 
 Water — Dwarf Palms— Marereni--Changes since my last Visit 
 — An Uncultivated Wilderness — Water-holes — Euphorbias — 
 Back-waters— Simba Hill— Possibilities of Cultivation— (lalla 
 Path— Lake Krawa— The Tana \'allcv— Galla \'illage— Golbanti ^10
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 THE TANA RIVER AND COUNTRY 
 
 PAG"E 
 
 Golbanti Mission Station — The Wa-Pokomo — Lakes of the Tana 
 Valley — Golbanti and surrounding Country — Lake Ashakababo 
 — Native Method of extracting Aloe Fibre — Luxuriant Maize — 
 Flat Country — The Tana — N'Gao — German Mission — Winding 
 Nature of the River — The Country to the South-west — Lake 
 Burabin — Mr. Bird-Thompson on the Tana and its Tribes. . . 323 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 GOLBANTI TO WITU 
 
 Journey down the River — The Belesoni Canal — The Tana Swamps 
 — Kalota River — Kisanga Wells — The Ozi River — Kau — Camp- 
 ing in a Graveyard — Crocodiles — Kirimanda River — " MTo 
 Mombamba" — ^larch to Witu— European Officers at Witu — 
 The Rebel Sultan— Salt Lake— The Cattle Disease — A Loyal 
 Native Gentleman — The Witu Country 339 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 THE WITU DISTRICT — WITU TO KIPINI 
 
 The Utwani Forest — Disturbed State of the Country — The English 
 Expedition of 1890— The Tsetse Fly — Start for Shaga — Lake 
 Chakamba — A German Settler's Cotton Plantation 352 
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 KIPINI TO LAMU — PATTA ISLAND 
 
 Kipini — The Ozi River — Camp at U'Kanga — Makombagni — Lake 
 M'Pekatoni — Hindi— Bomani— A Flat Country— Fungu Zombo 
 — Sivatoni — Arura — Wild Cotton^M'Kumbi — Return to the 
 Coast — M'Kanumbi — March to Makowe— Lamu Island — Arrive 
 at Patta Island— The Bajoni — Coir Fibre^The Wa-Siyu, 
 Patta — Difficulty in getting away — Grasping Natives .... 366 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 FROM PATTA ISLAND TO LA:\IU AND MOMBASA 
 
 Off to Itembe— Mze Saif the Bajoni Chief— Hostile Attitude of the 
 Wa-Siyu — Mattaroni — Bajoni Cotton Cultivation — Native Ele- 
 phant-hunter — His Description of the Unknown Country — The 
 Rainy Season — Renewed Difficulty in getting away — Sail for 
 Wange — Round the Mongoni Creek — The Pokomoni River — An 
 Arduous Day's March — Tangave — M'Gini— Lake Bere Bere— 
 Lamu — A Long Overland Tramp — A New Experience — ^vlagarini 
 
 once more — ]\Iombasa 39° 
 
 b
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 EXPEDITION TO PORT DURNFORD 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 A Tedious Delay— A Lion Hunt — Off at last— Organizing my 
 Caravan — German Plantation at Wange — Development of the 
 Country — The Ganda Fly — Indiarubber — A Fine Rice Country — 
 Native Cotton— The Dodori Creek— A Gadfly— The Dodori 
 River — A Lovely Country— The Mundane Hills — Vaas— A 
 Flooded Land— Camping in the Rainy Season— An Important 
 Conference 4i5 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 JOURNEY TO PORT DURNFORD, COflHimedSTART: FOR THE INTERIOR 
 
 To Parts Unknown — Bajoni Villages — Rubu — Mohamed bin Saif— 
 Cotton Cultivation— Homwe — A Unique Event— Difficult March- 
 ing — Kionga — An Object of Curiosity — Shakan — An Unexpected 
 Dela) — Ras Kiambone Wells — Ancient Ruins — Gome la Hckwa 
 — A Rocky Coast— The Cape of the Pillar — An Alarming Report 
 — Shakalasia — The Dhow Ashore — Port Durnford— Shauris 
 with the Natives — I march Inland 43 ' 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 SEARCH FOR THE FOREST 
 
 Into the liush — Cutting our Way — Orchella-weed — Warkono — An 
 Elephant Haunt — Buramanza Hill — Makundu Ridge — A Useless 
 Guide — An ever-receding Forest — Fever — A Shauri with the 
 Guides — Stalking a Leopard — Burkau again — Deceit of Head- 
 man — Resolve to fall back — The Wa-Galla Settlements on the 
 Wiori River — A Declining Race — Good-bye to Port Durnford — 
 Shamku — Thirst — A Weary Night March — Return to Kionga — 
 Engage another Guide — My New Plans 455 
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 SECOND ATTEMPT TO REACH THE FOREST 
 
 Renewed start Inland — Niambwc Village — Camp in Bajoni Planta- 
 tion — Breaking the "Charm'' — Watiku Agriculture — The Wa- 
 Boni Country — Watiku Intrigues — Soldier Ants — IMohamed 
 reappears — Forest at last — Indiarubber Vines — Gleaning Inform- 
 ation — Rain and Swamps — The Dodori River — Disquieting 
 News — An Armed Force — Untrustworthy Guides — Fumo Omari 
 — A Retreat decided on — A Caravan of Indiarubber Collectors — 
 A Satisfactory Bargain— Illness— Kind Friends — My Faithful 
 Dumgu — Loyalty of my Porters— Homeward Bound .... 474
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Part II.— ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND CLIMATOLOGY OF ZANZIBAR 
 
 PAGE 
 
 In search of an Hotel — Sir Lloyd Mathews — Interview with the 
 Sultan — Kinabuni Garden — Sketch of Zanzibar Island — Position 
 — Structure and Soil — Rain-fall and Temperature — My Plans . 505 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 CHUENI — KOKOTONI AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY 
 
 Luxuriant Verdure — Chueni Palace — Clove Plantations — Country 
 round Chueni — Neglected Shanibas — Kokotoni — Mr. Eraser's 
 Experiments : Sugar-cane and Coco-nuts — A Charming View — 
 Scarcity of Labour — Salim bin Hamisi and his Estates — 
 Character of Kokotoni District 515 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 KOKOTONI TO DUNGA 
 
 Continuous Clove Plantations — Arab Residences — Streams and 
 Ridges — M'Do— A Neglected Property — Mwera Valley — M'Zin- 
 gam Plain — Dunga 529 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 THE WAHADINU COUNTRY — RETURN TO ZANZIBAR 
 
 Handsome Stone House — Dunga Hill — Visit to the Wahadinu 
 Country — Coral-strewn Plains — Return Westward — Cassava 
 Fields — An Underground Stream — Zanzibar again — Sir John 
 Kirk's Garden at Mbweni 538 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 CULTIVATION AND AGRICULTURE IN ZANZIBAR 
 
 Cultivated Products— The Labour Question — Desirability of Indian 
 Immigration — Need of English Capital — Agricultural Capabilities 
 of the Island 547 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 CLOVE CULTIVATION IN ZANZIBAR 
 
 Importance of the Clove — Its Introduction into Zanzibar — Method 
 of Cultivation — Enemies of the Clove — Yield of Trees — Export 
 — Necessary Reforms 553
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 OTHER PRODUCTS OF ZANZIBAR 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Coco nut and its Products — Betel-nuts and Betel Pepper — 
 Mango and other Fruit Trees — Alimentary Plants — Banana 
 Fibre— Grains — Ground-nuts — Chillies — Uyes — Domestic Ani- 
 mals in Zanzibar 5*^4 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 NKW PRODUCTS SUITABLE FOR CULTIVATION IN ZANZIBAR 
 
 Fibres — Cacao — Nutmegs — Cinnamon — Pimento — Pepper Vine — 
 
 Ginger 576 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 TOUR IN PEMBA ISLAND 
 
 Points needing Investigation — Arrival at Weti — Arab Name for the 
 Island — Exuberance of the Vegetation — An Arab Proprietor — 
 Undulating Country — Uncleaned Ground — Fine Clove Trees — 
 Narrow Creeks —Mohamed bin Jumah and his Shambas — 
 Coffee Trees 587 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 TOUR IN PEMBA \'~,h\^'D— continued 
 
 The Sea-shore near Weti — Cross Weti Creek — Coco-nut Groves — 
 Extensive Cultivation — Cassava — A Considerable River — Drench- 
 ing Rain — Witchcraft — Wild Vanilla — Swampy \^alleys — Hilly 
 Country — Great Extent of Clove Shambas — Need of Drainage — 
 Complete my Inspection 596 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 AGRICULTURE IN PEMBA ISLAND 
 
 Clove Cultivation in Pemba— Nutmegs — Copra Drying— Rich Soil 
 
 of the Island— The Labour Question— Scarcity of Capital . . 606 
 
 APPENDICES 
 
 A.— FURTHER INFORMATION RESPECTING THE WA-GIRYAMA . . 615 
 
 B.— REPORTS AND VALUATIONS ON EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS . 624 
 
 C— METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 656 
 
 D.— NOTES ON AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING TREES .... 678 
 
 E.— EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-PLANTS 707 
 
 F.— SIR JOHN KIRK'S GARDEN AT ZANZIBAR 726 
 
 G.— THE CLOVE TREE 73 1 
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF AUTHOR ITIF.S REFERRED TO 7^,7 
 
 INDEX 741
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR (Frontispiece) 
 
 THE BAOBAB TREE 3 
 
 PORT DURNFORD ESTUARY 5 
 
 KILINDINI HARBOUR 6 
 
 LANDING-PLACE, MOMBASA 13 
 
 DISTRICT officer's HOUSE, MELIXDI 14 
 
 SAID BIN HAMID, LIWALI OF MELINDI 15 
 
 VASCO DA GAMA'S PILLAR, MELINDI l6 
 
 MOMBRUI 19 
 
 NATIVE VILLAGE — SHAMBA M'PANDIANI 21 
 
 A WANIKA HEAD-MAN 25 
 
 WANIKA VILLAGE 2/ 
 
 WANIKA WOMEN 29 
 
 EAST AFRICAN SLAVES 3I 
 
 FREED SLAVES — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 37 
 
 A -WANIKA HUT 45 
 
 VIEW FROM MAGARINI HILL — LOOKING SEAWARDS ....'.... 49 
 
 ALI BIN SALIM, I.IWALI OF MOMBRUI, AND HIS BROTHER-IN-LAW . . 55 
 
 COCO-NUT TREE 58 
 
 BETEL-NUT PALMS 61 
 
 PRINCIPAL FRUITS AND FOOD STUFFS OF THE COAST-LANDS .... 65 
 
 WANIKA LABOURERS 66 
 
 NATIVE AGRICULTURE : THRESHING AND WINNOWING METAMAH . . 75, 79 
 
 A GIRYAMA VILLAGE 95 
 
 WA-GIRYAMA lOO 
 
 WA-DIGO 102 
 
 WA-GIRYAMA WOMEN 112 
 
 WA-GIRYAMA 134 
 
 A WA-GIRYAMA FAMILY 135 
 
 NATIVES OF m'tANGANIKO 13^
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 SWAIIIM WOMEN I42 
 
 NATIVK SHAMRA, M'tONUOA I48 
 
 WATCHING THE WHITE MAN TASS 1 59 
 
 WAKAMBA — NORTH BANK OF THE SABAKI 163 
 
 VILLAGE GATEWAY— NORTH BANK OF THE SAIiAKI 167 
 
 THE THREATENED RAID — ON OUR WAY TO JELORI, NEWS ON THE ROAD 181 
 
 A DEAD BABOON I97 
 
 COCO-NUT TREES IN THE MELINDI DISTRICT 205 
 
 COTTON STORE SHED— MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 2IO 
 
 SEA ISLAND COTTON PLANTATION — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS .... 211 
 
 COCO-NUT GROVE — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 215 
 
 BREAKING COCO-NUTS FOR COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . . 217, 219 
 
 VIEW FROM MAGARINI HILL 223 
 
 VIEW FROM MAGARINI HILL, LOOKING INLAND 23 1 
 
 CAMP IN SHAMBA ABEDI — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 239 
 
 WANIKA VILLAGE, NEAR MAGARINI 24 1 
 
 NATIVE LABOUR — FREED SLAVE WOMEN — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . 245 
 
 CAMP-SHED, SHAMBA BARAKA — MAGARINI PL.\NTATIONS 253 
 
 COTTON FIELD— MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 256 
 
 MORNING MUSTER — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 257 
 
 BREAKING COCO-NUTS FOR COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS .... 261 
 
 DRYING COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 265 
 
 EAST AFRICAN CAMELS 269 
 
 MR. weaver's HUT — MAGARINI 271 
 
 A "SHAURl" WITH WA-GIRYAM.\ AND WAKAMBA CHIEFS AT JELORI . 275 
 RECEIVING A WANIKA DEPUTATION AT MY CAMP-SHED IN SHAMBA 
 
 NGHANIMA 279 
 
 A NATIVE DANCE 283 
 
 FRERE TOWN BAY 286 
 
 NATIVE VILLAGE 289 
 
 ARRIVAL OF THE NUBIANS AT MAGARINI 293 
 
 MY HEAD-MAN DUMGU 297 
 
 SENDING ESTATE PRODUCE TO THE COAST 3OI 
 
 ARAB DHOWS — MOMBASA HARBOUR 305 
 
 MORNING MUSTER — MAGARINI 307 
 
 PAY-TIME — .MAGARINI PLANTATIONS 3II 
 
 EAST AFRICAN CAMELS 315 
 
 THE FIRST PLOUGH USED ON THE COAST - .MAGARINI PLANTATIONS . . 319 
 
 THE TSETSE FLY 356 
 
 MAGNIFIED PROBOSCIS OF TSETSE FLY 357 
 
 LEAF OF WILD COTTON PLANT (;ROWlNG IN THE VILLAGE OF ARUKA . 372 
 
 HORASSUS PALMS 374 
 
 LAMU FORT t^-j(^
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 LAMU MARKET 406 
 
 AI'TERNOON TEA AT MAGARINI 4O9 
 
 THE administrator's HOUSE AT KII.INDIM — MOMBASA 4II 
 
 MY LAST GLIMPSE OF MAGARINI PLANTATIONS— PEACE AND PROSPERITY 4I3 
 
 MARKET STREET, MOMBASA 416 
 
 A STREET IN LAMU 4I7 
 
 MY PORTERS 42O 
 
 MY PORTERS — A HALT ON THE WAY 426 
 
 CAMP AT ITEMBE 428 
 
 SHWE 432 
 
 RUBU 433 
 
 MOHAMED BIN SAIF 434 
 
 KIONGA BAY 438 
 
 KIONGA 440 
 
 HIGH STONE PILLAR, NORTH OF RAS KIAMBONE 443 
 
 MY CARAVAN ON THE MARCH TO PORT DURNFORD 445 , 
 
 CAMP AT SHAKALASIA 447 
 
 FIRST VIEW OF PORT DURNFORD ESTUARY 449 
 
 CAMP AT BURKAU 45O 
 
 PORT DURNFORD 452 
 
 INTO THE BUSH 453 
 
 BURAMANZA HILL 456 
 
 OUR PATH THROUGH THE BUSH ' 458 
 
 LAST day's CAMP IN THE BUSH 459 
 
 TYPE OF LARGER TREE GROWING IN THE INTERIOR 461 
 
 CAMP AT BURKAU 464 
 
 CAMP AT SHAMKU 468 
 
 KIONGA — PORTERS WAITING FOR THE ORDER TO START 475 
 
 CAMP IN MOHAMED BIN SAIF'S METAMAH SHAMBA 477 
 
 SHAURI WITH THE WA-BONI HEAD-MAN 480 
 
 WA-BONI WOMEN 481 
 
 MY PRESENTS TO THE WA-BONI 483 
 
 IN THE WA-BONI COUNTRY — WAITING FOR GUIDES 485 
 
 THE DODORI RIVER 49I, 492 
 
 LOOKING DOWN THE DODORI RIVER 495 
 
 LAST CAMP IN THE WA-BONI COUNTRY 498 
 
 THE FORT — MOMBASA 50O 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND 502 
 
 RESTING AT THE WELL 531 
 
 ARAB WELI 586 
 
 BOWSTRING HEMP 7o8 
 
 SECTIONS OF LEAVES OF SPECIES OF SANSEVIERIA . . 709
 
 LIST OF MAPS 
 
 LIST OF MAPS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 KKY TO SFXTIONAI, MAI'S f^^cing ix 
 
 EAST AFRICA: COAST-LAND FROM MOMBASA TO MEhlNDI . .... I 
 
 SKETCH-l'I.AN OF MAGARINI SHAMBAS 39 
 
 THE TANA RIVER, FROM GOLBANTI TO THE BELESONI CANAL . facing 339 
 
 SKETCH-Mv\I' OF KAU AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 343 
 
 SKETCH-.MAP OF KIl'INI 367 
 
 SKETCH-MAP OF KILLMANI 378 
 
 EAST AFRICA : MELINDI TO LAMU, INCLUDING THE LOWER SABAKI AND 
 
 TANA RIVER DISTRICTS facijlg 378 
 
 SKETCH-MAP OF FAZA 381 
 
 SKETCH-MAP OF SIYU 385 
 
 MAP OF PATTA ISLAND f'^<-'i'ig 388 
 
 EAST AFRICA : COAST-LAND FROM LAMU TO PORT DURNFORD . ,, 502 
 
 MAP OF ZANZIBAR ISLAND ,, 546 
 
 MAP OF PEMBA ISLAND ,, 604 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS IN EAST AFRICA 657
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AERICA 
 
 Part I.— THE MAINLAND 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 THE COAST-LANDS OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 General Appearance — \'egetation — Rivers and Harbours — Rain-fall — 
 Prevailing Winds — Temperatui'e — Relative Humidity — Population. 
 
 The explorations described in these pages covered (in 
 addition to the islands of Lamu and Patta) the whole of the 
 coast region between Mombasa and Port Durnford, extending 
 up the Sabaki valley for upwards of one hundred miles, 
 the country between Lamu and Port Durnford being entirely 
 new and previously unexplored. A glance at the map shows 
 that the country traversed by me embraces the greater part 
 of the four hundred miles of coast-line pertaining to the 
 British East African Protectorate. 
 
 The general appearance of this coast-line is flat and low ; 
 its leading characteristics, apart from its occasional coral 
 nature, coral forming the principal substratum, being its 
 frequent winding inland creeks, which are belted with dense 
 fringes of mangroves. These creeks form natural water-ways, 
 and are admirably adapted to serve, as in fact they do, as 
 outlets for inland produce. Such, for instance, are the several 
 creeks running back from the fine land-locked harbour of 
 Mombasa or Kilifi, opening out into one of the finest havens
 
 TR.WELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 on the coast, close to which is situated the large native town 
 of TakaungLi, the present outlet of the produce of the Giryama 
 country ; the network of creeks behind Lamu, Manda, and 
 Patta Islands ; and further north, the important estuary of 
 Port Durnford. 
 
 Noticeable in another way, are the numerous small and 
 shallow back-waters, forming what I may describe as natural 
 salt-pans, the salt deposited by evaporation after the high 
 neap-tides, more than supplying the needs of the surrounding 
 population. 
 
 North of Kionga, mangroves entirely cease, and the coast 
 continues open up to the Juba river, consisting of low rocky 
 coral headlands, alternating with wide, shallow, white sandy 
 bays, in which are generally found enormous masses of 
 accumulated sea-weed ; whilst south of Port Durnford an 
 almost continuous chain of low islets forms — some distance 
 from the coast — a natural barrier to the waves, enabling small 
 craft to navigate the smoother water within at all seasons of 
 the year, and the monotony of the low, white sandy ridge 
 immediately fronting the beach is only broken here and there 
 by scattered groups of Casuarina trees, so extensively grown 
 in some districts of the Madras Presidency for their valuable 
 fuel and well-known wind-resisting qualities. 
 
 Looking inland, we find a wide, very nearly flat, expanse of 
 country, covered almost everywhere with dense low bush, and 
 such is the general appearance of all the higher portions of 
 the coast, in which that typical African tree, the baobab, 
 forms a conspicuous feature. The baobab {Adajtsonia digitata) 
 impresses an observer at once by its singular appearance, and 
 enormous massive trunk and branches. It is a deciduous 
 tree, and is held in great esteem amongst the natives, not 
 only for its fruit, but also for the hard outer shell enclosing 
 the fruit, which forms the calabash so universally used as the 
 native water-bucket. The wood of the stem is very soft, and 
 somewhat resembles cork, and has been found to possess 
 qualities suitable for the manufacture of paper. 
 
 In the low-lying parts thick clumps of Hyphcene palms — 
 assuming in places the proportions of regular forests — take 
 the place of the thick bush already described. This palm —
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 the diim palm i^HypJicEue tJiebaica) — not only grows very 
 extensively along special portions of the coast, but is also a 
 prominent feature of the inland vegetation fringing the banks 
 of the principal rivers. It yields -a sap very similar to the 
 toddy obtained from the palmyra and coco-nut palms in 
 India, and which there forms an important article for sugar 
 manufacture ; but in East Africa unfortunately, its use so far 
 is confined to the making of an intoxicating drink resembling 
 the well-known arrack. It is from the flavour of the fruit that 
 this curious palm has obtained the name of the "gingerbread 
 tree." The fruit is of a deep brown colour and about the size 
 
 
 '^£^*^A^ v^ 
 
 m. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 
 .jxM^S^Bf^ 
 
 
 ■ ■J 
 
 ^ ■•;- ' 
 
 -A 
 
 
 
 x-^ 
 
 m^''' 
 
 *'---l. "•-•.•■'' ^ '.■*■ ^■ 
 
 
 
 
 :• *: - 
 
 ^■f. ■.'" 
 
 W^^- - 
 
 
 BB>'^CTf 5r^^BK 
 
 K* 
 
 
 mtk'^ 
 
 ^ vSB3 
 
 t^^' • '^<^^li^H^m 
 
 i. 
 
 K^^^lff^ 
 
 - i 
 
 * "s^^^^PBPIP^'^^M 
 
 r 
 
 ^m'^''^ma^-r»i^SS^^U 
 
 THE BAOBAB TREK. 
 
 of a small mango or orange ; and from its pounded rind a 
 flour is obtained, and eaten either raw or cooked, tasting 
 strongly of gingerbread. 
 
 Proceeding inland, the vegetation takes the form of thick 
 forest, which south of the Tana river becomes somewhat 
 irregular and patchy ; though as an exception to this general 
 rule I would instance the greater portion of the Giryama 
 country, including the fertile Sabaki valley, where the forest 
 is of considerable size and extent, whilst north of the Tana it 
 assumes very large proportions, so much so, that we are not 
 able even to this day to define its actual limits and extent.
 
 TRAXKLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Re)'ond this, the traveller emerges upon a comparatively 
 waterless and barren countr)', extending to the foot of the 
 higher interior plateau, the congenial home of cacti, euphorbia, 
 and mimosa trees, and also exceedingl}- rich in \-arieties of 
 aloes and fibre-}'ielding plants. 
 
 Such are, in brief outline, the chief ph\'sical characteristics 
 of the coast-lands. 
 
 The river system of a countr}- forms a most important 
 feature of its resources, both agricultural and commercial, and 
 in this respect British East Africa'is not ill provided. Putting 
 aside minor streams, and water-courses full only during the 
 rains, we have first the Uviba river in the extreme south, 
 forming the first part of our boundary with German East 
 Africa. Next the Sabaki, flowing through a rich, fertile, and 
 almost uninhabited country, and entering the sea between the 
 thriving coast towns of Melindi and IMombrui. Although its 
 numerous shallow sand-banks entirely preclude navigation, the 
 river offers other facilities — apart from decided possibilities 
 in the matter of irrigation — such as the floating down of timber 
 and raw fibre material, etc. About fifty miles further on, we 
 come to the more important Tana river, flowing into Formosa 
 Ba)-. A little abo^•e, again, is the Ozi river watering the very 
 fertile district of Witu, and entering the sea to the southward 
 of Lamu Island. These two rivers — the Tana and Ozi — are 
 connected by the artificial canal of Belesoni, two miles in 
 length, which conveys the Tana trade into the Ozi river, and 
 thence to Lamu, for the mouth of the Tana is blocked by a 
 sand-bar. The canal joins the Ozi at the town of Kau, about 
 ten to twelve miles inland, whilst at the mouth of that river is 
 another town of importance, Kipini. To the north we have 
 first the river flowing into the Port Durnford estuary, and 
 navigable by steamers of considerable draught, and lastly the 
 largest river of all, the y/^/?^, forming the northern boundary 
 of our sphere. 
 
 Three of these rixers, the Tana, the Ozi, and the Juba, are 
 navigable, though the bars at the mouths make them difficult 
 of entrance at present. The East Africa Company's large 
 stern-wheel steamer Kenia, under the charge of Commander 
 1-'. G. Dundas, R.X., successfulh- ascended the Tana and the
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Juba and navigated the former for three hundred and fifty and 
 the latter for four hundred miles — thus demonstrating not only 
 the practicability of navigating these rivers with a vessel of 
 considerable size, but their great value as future commercial 
 highways. Besides smaller harbours, the coast possesses 
 several capable of admitting ocean steamers, as the following 
 particulars from the African Pilot will testify ^ — 
 
 " Wasin Harbour in the south, between the island ot that 
 
 PORT UUKNFOKU ESTUAKY. 
 
 name and the mainland (east of the port of Wanga), is a safe 
 anchorage in any weather, with from six to ten fathoms. 
 
 " Its eastern entrance is clear from danger, and on the west 
 there is a navigable channel between Tanga and Wasin inside 
 the reefs, which has not yet been examined ; but in 1878 the 
 Fmoii found no difficulty in proceeding from Tanga Island as 
 far as Gomani Bay. 
 
 " Mombasa (the leading port) has several harbours. Port 
 
 • Part III., 1889, chap, x., and the "Revised Supplement," 1S92, page 
 75 to end.
 
 TRAXELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Mombasa, on the eastern side of the island, is one ; it is half 
 a mile in length and about two cables in breadth, with good 
 anchoring depths close to the shore on either side. The 
 anchorage is eleven to twelve fathoms water in mid-channel. 
 Port Tudor is a land-locked harbour on the north side of the 
 island, and is reached by a narrow winding channel on the 
 east side of Mombasa Island, which has depths of from eight 
 to twenty fathoms, and more in places with bold shores. 
 There are few more beautiful places than this winding channel 
 
 Kll.lNDINl II.\UHC)L'K. 
 
 with its stcejj wooded bank. The anchorage at Port Tudor 
 is in from five to ten fathoms mud, and although the passage 
 is impracticable for a sailing ship on account of its windings, 
 there is no difficult)- for a vessel, however large, to steam up to 
 the harbour. Port Kilmdini is a fine sheltered harbour on 
 the west side of Mombasa Island, leading to Port Reitz, and 
 is about two and a half miles long by half a mile wide, with 
 depths varying from six to twenty fathoms, and as much as 
 thirty fathoms at each end of the port, where it is narrow.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 The harbour is available for all classes of vessels. Port Reitz 
 is a fine inland harbour, about four miles east and west, by one 
 mile broad, and may be entered without difficulty through 
 Port Kilindini, which forms the channel to it. There is 
 anchorage in Port Reitz in twelve to fifteen fathoms mud. 
 In February 1890 Vice- Admiral Sir E. Fremantle achored 
 eleven men-of-war in this harbour. 
 
 " Passing the less sheltered roadsteads of Kilifi and Melindi, 
 Lamu Bay claims the next notice, although it is partially 
 obstructed by sand-banks and exposed to the south-west 
 monsoon, but during the rest of the year there is good shelter in 
 five fathoms. Lamu harbour affords secure anchorage for all 
 vessels that can cross the bar, which carries 1 7 feet at low-water. 
 
 " Manda Bay, at the entrance of a large mangrove-lined 
 creek running many miles inland, is a magnificent harbour with 
 deep water and room for the largest ships. It is situated 
 between Manda and Patta Islands, and is connected with 
 Lamu harbour by a passage northward of Manda Island 
 available for boats at half flood. The anchorage is in six 
 fathoms water. 
 
 " Kismayu Bay, the northernmost anchorage on the east 
 coast of Africa, is better than any other at present known 
 northward of Manda Bay (that of Port Durnford not having 
 yet been surveyed), and for this reason will always be valuable 
 as a port of refuge, there being always sheltered anchorage at 
 either end of the bay, according to the direction of the wind, 
 in from three and a half to four fathoms water." 
 
 Records of rrz/wy^?// and temperature s.ve now kept at se\eral 
 stations of the coast region under the supervision of the Ro}'al 
 Meteorological Society, and the results are carefully recorded 
 in the Society's Reports. Though the coast-lands are equally 
 subject to the influence of the same monsoons, the rain-fall is 
 considerabl}' less than on the neighbouring island of Zanzibar, 
 and this difference may be put down at from 15 to 20 inches. 
 The rains follow the sun, commencing soon after the latter 
 has passed the zenith, and the two rainy seasons, inaugurated 
 by the S.W. and N.E. monsoons, are distinguished locally as — ■ 
 The Greater Rains = " Masika M'Ku." 
 The Lesser Rains = " Masika M'Dooo " or " M'Luli."
 
 IKAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 The Greater Rains commence in March, with the heaviest 
 fall in April and May, and continue with gradually diminish- 
 ing force to September. 
 
 The Lesser Rains begin in October, and practically end in 
 November, for though the wind continues steadily from the 
 N.N.E., the rain-fall in December, January, and February is 
 uncertain. It is during these latter months that the greatest 
 heat prevails, particularly in January and February. 
 
 Mr. Ravenstein, taking the records of rain-fall for about ten 
 years, estimates the average for Mombasa to be 51 inches. 
 This is more than confirmed by the following record of rain-fall 
 for five years kept at Frere Town, on the mainland opposite 
 Mombasa. 
 
 M^ECORDS OF RAIN-FALL DURING THE YEARS 1876 TO 
 1880, MEASURED AT FRERE TOWN NEAR MOMBASA. 
 
 Months 
 
 1876 
 
 1877 
 
 1878 
 
 1879 
 
 1880 
 
 Average of 
 Jive years 
 
 January 
 
 •35 
 
 ■-5 
 
 7-66 
 
 ■57 
 
 
 177 
 
 February 
 
 •18 
 
 — 
 
 •51 
 
 y^i 
 
 "^6 
 
 •S4 
 
 March 
 
 3-57 
 
 371 
 
 475 
 
 I '39 
 
 1-96 
 
 3-08 
 
 April 
 
 6"oo 
 
 4-50 
 
 12-46 
 
 10-50 
 
 6-31 
 
 7"95 
 
 May 
 
 i6-i6 
 
 12-82 
 
 4-46 
 
 16-36 
 
 9-62 
 
 11-88 
 
 June 
 
 3'ii 
 
 671 
 
 8 -08 
 
 4-3 1 - 
 
 no 
 
 4-66 
 
 July 
 
 4'6o 
 
 4"io 
 
 1-90 
 
 2-02 
 
 9'45 
 
 4'4i 
 
 August ... 
 
 2-68 
 
 979 
 
 426 
 
 I-8I 
 
 1-39 
 
 3 '99 
 
 September 
 
 2-66 
 
 1075 
 
 3 "09 
 
 I'25 
 
 2-15 
 
 3'9S 
 
 October 
 
 •97 
 
 12-44 
 
 3-04 
 
 ■44 
 
 4"39 
 
 4-26 
 
 November 
 
 •56 
 
 21-05 
 
 2-09 
 
 3-20 
 
 6-26 
 
 6-63 
 
 December 
 
 ■60 
 
 3 "49 
 
 ■30 
 
 ■55 
 
 1-76 
 
 1-34 
 
 
 41-44 
 
 89-61 
 
 52-60 
 
 45'57 
 
 4475 
 
 5479 
 
 That the excessive fall of 89-61 inches in 1877 is no 
 exaggeration is proved by the fact that the Rev. Thomas 
 Wakefield measured 90 inches at the neighbouring ]\Iission 
 
 ' For further information concerninj. 
 .\ppcndix C. 
 
 rain-fall and te)uperatin\\ see
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 Station of Ribe in the same year. The quantity which has 
 fallen on particular days has occasionally been excessive, as 
 for instance a fall 5-50 inches was registered at Magarini on 
 May 14, 1892, 13-81 inches falling during that month. On the 
 other hand, the rain-fall is often uncertain and variable, as 
 .evidenced by the record of only 26 inches in Mombasa in 
 1892, the difference of the fall in the same month being even 
 more marked. 
 
 Mr. Ravenstein, accepting 51 inches as the mean for Mom- 
 basa, is led to believe that the following will represent the 
 mean annual rain-fall along the coast — 
 
 Mombasa ... 
 
 51 inches 
 
 Melindi and Jelori 
 
 • ••45 M 
 
 Magarini ... 
 
 • ••39 n 
 
 Lamu 
 
 17 ,. 
 
 Kismayu ... 
 
 II 
 
 the rain-fall, as will be seen, decreasing rapidly as one 
 proceeds northward along the coast. 
 
 My own experience of the wet season in the Witu district 
 inclines me to think that though perhaps occurring earlier, the 
 rain-fall may prove as heavy as further south. This is an 
 important question which only future records can decide. 
 
 " Observations of the ivind were made at Chuyu, ]\Ielindi, 
 and Witu. Local circumstances undoubtedly influence the 
 direction of the wind, as does also the hour of the day, but, 
 broadly speaking, it may be stated that southerly or south- 
 westerly winds prevail from March or April to September 
 or October, whilst easterly or north-easterly winds are 
 supreme during the remainder of the year." ^ 
 
 From the same authority I quote the following remarks 
 on the temperature and relative humidity along the coast 
 zone. 
 
 Mr. Ravenstein premises that the observations " are as yet 
 far too scanty and imperfect to enable us to deduce from 
 
 1 Report on Meteorological Observations in British East Africa for 1893, 
 by E. G. Ravenstein, F. R. Met. Soc. (Geo. Philip & Son).
 
 tra\'i:ls in east ai kica 
 
 them true means of the temjjeratuic, and still less of the 
 rain-fall and humidit)-." Of the temperature he states that 
 "the mean annual temj^erature \aries from 78 (Chuyu, 
 Macjarini) to 82 (Mombasa). The coolest month (June, 
 Jul}', or August) has a mean temperature of from 74 to 
 76 , the hottest (February or March) of from 81-5 to 86" 
 (at Kismayu). The lowest temperature recorded during 1893 
 was 6T) (Lamu, in Junej, the highest 94 (Magarini, in 
 December). The annual range, that is the difference between 
 the means of the coolest and hottest months, amounts, at 
 Mombasa, to only 5"8' F., which is the same as at Zanzibar, 
 Avhilst at Kismayu it probably exceeds 10 F". This range, 
 it need hardly be stated, is exceedingh" small as compared 
 with what is experienced in Europe. The daily range, \\hich 
 at Zanzibar amounts to 7*8', reaches 77 F. at Mombasa and 
 13 at Magarini. The extreme months at Zanzibar are April 
 (7 F.) and September (8'9 F.). At Mombasa they are 
 November (5'3' F.) and August (9'6 F.) ; at Magarini, June 
 (9"0 ) and December (i6"2 ), the greater range at IMagarini 
 being due, no doubt, to its inland situation on the slope of 
 a hill. Hygienically this small dail\- range ma}' be looked 
 upon as a favourable feature of the climate of Eastern 
 Africa. 
 
 "The relative Jmmidity at Mombasa, Melindi, and W'itu 
 amounts to 81 per cent. At Lamu it is probabh" higher. 
 The atmosphere is driest immediatel}^ before or shortly after 
 the commencement of the heav}- rains, sa}' in March, dampest 
 in the month having the hea\iest rain-fall, nameh', April 
 or Ma}'." 
 
 For the purpose of comparison with the foregoing figures, 
 I may add that at Greenwich — 
 
 The mean temperature is, for }'ear ... 49 5 F". 
 
 „ Annua! range ... ... ... ... 23-9 
 
 „ Mean daily range ... ... ... iO'6" 
 
 „ Relatix'e humidit}' ... ... ... 82/^ 
 
 „ Annual rain-fall ... ... ... 25 inches. 
 
 As regards the population of the coast region, the towns 
 are chiefl}' inhabited b}- Swahilis. Indians ( Parsees, Iranians),
 
 TRA\'ELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 and Arabs — although under the latter name the Swahili is 
 generall}' classed, the admixture of Arab blood being so 
 strong. The immediate coast-lands — that is, for ten miles 
 inland — are peopled mainly b}^ Swahilis, with some inter- 
 mixture of the aboriginal tribes beyond. Of these I shall 
 speak more full}- later on.
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 ARRIVAL IN AFRICA — JOURNEY TO THE MA(;ARINI 
 SHAMBAS 
 
 Landing at Mombasa — Scope of my Mission — Departure for Melindi — 
 Interviews with the Liwalis of Melindi and Mombrui — (iround Cultiva- 
 tion, Coco-nuts — Start for Shambas — Sabaki River — Mombrui — First 
 Night in a Slave Village — Native System of Agriculture — Labour 
 Question — Cotton — The Wanika — Scarcity of Water Supply — The 
 African Slave. 
 
 On July 9, 1891, I arrived at ]\Iombasa to take charge of 
 certain plantations lately acquired by the Imperial British 
 East Africa Company in the IMelindi district further up the 
 coast, my instructions being to work and develop these as fully 
 as possible, and to assume concurrently, the agricultural super- 
 \ision of the whole of the Melindi and Sabaki districts with 
 the view of improving the native cultivation general h*. The 
 scope of my mission was subsequently extended, so as to 
 embrace not only an examination of the spice and other 
 products of Zanzibar and Pemba, but also a detailed inspec- 
 tion of the country between Mombasa and Melindi, the Sabaki 
 region inland, and along the coast from Melindi to Lamu and 
 northward to Port Durnford. My sphere of operations also 
 included the districts behind this coast-line which comprise 
 the basin of the lower Tana, the Protectorate of Witu, and 
 the countries of the W'a-Galla, Somalis, W'a-Boni and other 
 tribes, as well as the islands of Lamu and Patta off the Witu 
 coast. 
 
 I remained in Mombasa five days while making the 
 numerous necessary preparations for my journey to the 
 
 shambas, during which interval I was the guest of Mr. J. R. 
 
 12
 
 TRA^'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 13 
 
 W. Pigott, the Company's Acting Administrator. In the com- 
 pHcated business of procuring suppHes, implements, servants, 
 etc., I was cordially assisted b}' the various officials at head- 
 quarters. Amongst the supplies I took with me were several 
 bags of tobacco and cotton-seed for the purpose of improving 
 the cultivation of these products. On July 15 I sailed 
 from Mombasa in the Company's coasting steamer Henry 
 Wright, accompanied b}' Mr. Weaver (who afterwards became 
 
 LANDING-PLACE, MOMBASA. 
 
 my assistant). After a fairl}- good passage we reached 
 Melindi at 5 p.m. the same da)-. I was met on board by 
 Mr. Bell-Smith, the officer in charge of the Melindi district 
 (who was afterwards, I regret to say, shot b)- a native). 
 His house, a two-storied white building on the beach, was a 
 conspicuous object from the sea, and here we took up our 
 quarters during our sta)' in Melindi. I was much pleased 
 with the appearance of the town, which was larger than I
 
 •4 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 expected. I could .see the hill of the Magarini shambas 
 in the di.stance — about eighteen miles' journey, though not 
 more than ten miles as the crow flies. In the evening AH bin 
 Salim, Liwali of Alombrui, son of the Liwali of ^Mombasa, came 
 to pay me a visit, and we had a pleasant chat together. After 
 morning tea on the i6th, I went on board the Henry Wright 
 to superintend the landing of my baggage. The Arab captain 
 not understanding English, I had to go down into the hold 
 several times to secure my belongings, and very hot work I 
 
 Sjrf*^ ■■■■-*'■ ' -— 
 
 'I^TKICT OFKICKR'S HOUSE, MELINDI. 
 
 found it ! In the afternoon Said bin Hamid, the Liwali of 
 Melindi, a fine handsome Swahili, came to call. He and the 
 Liwali of Mombrui were trustees of the Melindi shambas, 
 which were the confiscated property of a deposed rebel (Suli- 
 man bin ,\bdulla), and being heavily mortgaged, the estate was 
 administered by the Company at the request of the Sultan'of 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 Next day (July 17) the Arab and Swahili New Year, I 
 called on the Liwali, Said bin Hamid, who gave us sweet- 
 meats and coffee in tiny cups, and showed us the handsome
 
 1 \ 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 15 
 
 sword presented to him by the Directors of the Company for 
 his services on their taking over the country from the Sultan 
 of Zanzibar. Later on we called on the Liwali of Mombrui, 
 who similarly entertained us. In the afternoon I went to see 
 the Liwali of Melindi's garden, and was much pleased with 
 the appearance of the fine coco-nut trees, which were planted 
 about 24 feet apart. The soil was black and free, and 
 struck me as suitable for cotton. A crop of maize had 
 been just reaped, and the land was then under sfm-sim 
 
 SAID BIX HAMID, LIWALI OF MELINDI. 
 
 (Sesame or Gingelly). The rich soil appeared to bear readily 
 the rapid succession of crops, beginning with Guinea corn or 
 metamah, maize coming next and being followed by sim-sim, 
 often put down before the last crop was out of the ground. 
 
 The Liwali, who professed great willingness to assist me by 
 every means in his power, brought two samples of tobacco for 
 my inspection. The first was the local variety grown near 
 the Sabaki river, with very coarse dark leaves ; this tobacco is 
 very strong, and is only used for snuffing and chewing. The
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 other was imported Arabian, and the Hght yellow leaves had 
 still the whole stalk adhering to them, the whole plant having 
 apparently been cut down and cured at the same time. 
 
 On the morning of July 19 I walked to .see the I^illar 
 erected by Vasco da Gama to commemorate his visit to 
 Melindi in the year 1498, when his ship was nearly wrecked. 
 This Pillar, still in perfect preservation, is situated on a small 
 
 VASCO DA (;am.\'s pillar, melindi. 
 
 point south of Melindi, and forms a leading mark for ships 
 coming in. 
 
 I returned inland through some coco-nut plantations, the 
 largest I passed through belonging to the Liwali of Mombasa. 
 The trees — planted wide apart, generally 40 X 40 feet, to 
 allow of ground-produce being grown below — appeared but 
 little cared for, the ground beneath being overgrown with 
 grass and weeds, and only here .and there had the ground 
 been hoed a few feet from the trees, and the weeds and
 
 I TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA i; 
 
 rubbish banked up round the stems. I remarked also near 
 some slave-huts a large heap of husks thrown aside as useless, 
 a proof that no use was made of the fibre. On Jul)- 20 I 
 sent off my loads, packed on seven camels (a camel carries 
 from 360 to 370 pounds), one relay going to the Sabaki river, 
 about four miles away, while the Liwali of Mombrui, Ali bin 
 Salim, very kindly took personal charge of them as far as 
 Mombrui. In the afternoon I went for a walk along the sea- 
 shore, and was struck with the ver)' large quantity of sea- weed 
 that was washed up, its excellent manuring qualities not 
 being understood by the natives. 
 
 Bell-Smith and I left next day for Suliman's shambas at 
 about 9 a.m., starting on donkeys, lent to us by the Liwali 
 of Melindi, who accompanied us. The donkeys were good 
 ones and apparently much valued, costing from fifty dollars 
 and upwards (one dollar equals 2^- rupees). They are 
 generally fed on metamah. My saddle consisted of some 
 cloths lent by the Liwali, with a coir rope for stirrups, and m)' 
 donkey's name was " Go easy." Three camels with the 
 remaining loads started after us in charge of Bell-Smith's 
 head-man. We rode along the sea-shore over a magnificent 
 sandy beach, which would have delighted the hearts of English 
 children, till we reached the Sabaki river, distant four miles 
 from Melindi. This river, deep and very yellow in colour, 
 flows into the sea through muddy mangrove flats. 
 
 We crossed over in a small native canoe, the only means 
 of transport for goods and men. Camels and donkeys 
 cannot ford the river on account of the numerous crocodiles, 
 of which we shot one basking on the bank. A cow had been 
 attacked and killed by one only a few days before. On the 
 other side we found fresh donkeys waiting for us, mine, this 
 time, rejoicing in the name of " Old woman " ! We continued 
 along the shore, still the same fine sandy beach with a fine 
 view of the breakers rolling in. About noon we reached the 
 picturesque little town of Mombrui situated on the sea-shore, 
 and rode straight to the Liwali's house, where we were shown 
 into a fine room, decorated with French mirrors, and where 
 we presently received visits from the elders of the town, 
 sweetmeats, coffee, and a hookah being passed round. After 
 
 c
 
 TRAVELS IN HAST AFRICA CHAP 
 
 this, breakfast was served for us in a room containing a 
 European bed with gorgeous mattresses and pillows, a musical 
 box and a large French mirror ! 0\xx plats consisted of curried 
 and roast fowl, rice and green coco-nuts ; this fruit when green 
 contains merely a cold sweet water which is a most refreshing 
 beverage on a hot day. 
 
 At 2.30 p.m. we bade farewell to our host, and, still 
 accompanied by the Liwali of Melindi, proceeded on our 
 journey to Magarini over a fertile undulating plain, with slave 
 villages, and coco-nut shambas surrounded by high thorn 
 fences scattered here and there ; and this being my first 
 glimpse of native cultivation I was much interested. The 
 soil was chiefly a rich black friable loam, interspersed in 
 places with red loam, and very fertile ; in some of the 
 metamah fields we passed through, the stalks were nearly 
 12 feet high. The bean and sim-sim fields were also 
 most luxuriant, and the vegetation of the abandoned patches 
 covered with thick bush and grass also bore witness to the 
 richness of the soil. 
 
 Nearly the whole way from Mombrui to the shambas, we 
 passed through cultivated land. The Liwali pointed out some 
 patches of Guinea corn, the leaves of which were suffering 
 from a disease somewhat resembling rust. 
 
 I noticed that " goat weed " and " ilook grass " were the 
 prevalent weeds ; the latter {Iinperata Koenigii), of which 
 there are two varieties, one broad-bladed and the other 
 thin and spiral, is most difficult to eradicate when once it 
 gets a hold upon the land, and the system of cultivation 
 carried on by the Swahilis does not tend to discourage 
 its spread. Guinea corn appeared to be most grown, 
 though I also saw patches of poor-looking rice growing 
 in hollows. 
 
 Arriving at last at Suliman's shambas I discovered that 
 this property consisted, not of one block of land as I had 
 expected, but of many distinct and scattered plantations. 
 The first we entered, though much neglected and grass- 
 grown, consisted of fine coco-nuts interspersed with mango 
 trees and banana clumps, and looked promising — in the centre 
 was situated one of the three slave villaszes that existed on
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 the property.^ This plantation, as well as others adjacent to it, 
 was entered through a massive wooden gateway, and protected 
 by a thick impenetrable thorn fence surrounding it on all 
 sides. 
 
 Leaving the plantations and passing some scattered houses 
 and cultivated plots, we came to a large valley where Suliman 
 had formerly grown sugar-cane. A good deal of it was still 
 growing wild, and in its centre stood the abandoned sugar-mill 
 with its disused and rusty machinery. We then passed the 
 second slave village on our right. Just ahead of us, rising 
 out of the sugar-cane valley, was a low hill called Magarini, 
 
 NATIVK VII.LAGi;— SHAMHA M I'ANDIAM. 
 
 and on its top was situated the third and largest slave village, 
 a ruined mosque, patches of cultivated land, and Suliman's 
 house, these being surrounded by a strong wooden stockade, 
 and the entrance defended by an old cannon. Suliman's 
 house was our head-quarters, and there we arrived at 6 p.m. 
 We found that the three camels carrying our gear had not yet 
 turned up — what had arrived had suffered severely in its 
 passage over the Sabaki — all the lanterns and my filter were 
 broken, the sugar had all melted, and only one whole tumbler 
 was left ! However, we all thoroughly enjoyed our make- 
 
 1 All the slaves were freed by order of the Directors of the Company, 
 and employed on wages as free people.
 
 22 TR.WKLS IN KAST AFRICA CHAI'. 
 
 shift meal of bacon and eggs, and sweet biscuits, supplemented 
 with the LiwaH's rice and a corn-flour pudding. 
 
 Said bin Hamid gave us his own tent, and he slept in the 
 verandah. It was m}^ first night in a tent, and a truly miser- 
 able one it was ; the mosquitoes simpl}' swarmed and made 
 sleep perfectly impossible. 
 
 I spent most of the following day in unpacking my gear, 
 and as I was likely to spend much time there, Suliman's house 
 had been given to me for my head-quarters. However, upon 
 examination I found it in such a state of dilapidation that the 
 cost of repairing it in a suitable manner for a European would 
 be too great, so I decided to live in the Liwali's tent until my 
 own arrived. I converted one of the rooms into a store-room 
 and secured it with a padlock. I was not likely, after my 
 experiences of the preceding night, to forget mosquito- 
 curtains. Bell-Smith sent down to Melindi for some, and the}' 
 arrived b}' nightfall. 
 
 The better acquainted I became with the various native 
 ways and customs, the greater and more difficult m)' task 
 seemed to be. No ploughing whatever appeared to be done 
 — if indeed any knowledge of it existed — whilst land cultiva- 
 tion of every description, from the preliminar}' clearing and 
 hoeing to the final harxesting operations was carried on entirely 
 by slave labour — the only one available. It followed that the 
 value, and indeed the extent, of cultivated land depended 
 entirely Jipon ths number of a^milablc slaves — a landowner's 
 wealth and position being judged accordingl)'. 
 
 Ever since the issue of the Sultan of Zanzibar's Anti- 
 Slavery Decree in 1 890, land had been steadily going out of 
 cultixation, a result due, first, to the discouragement caused 
 amongst the Arabs and Swahilis, who are the principal culti- 
 vators on the coast, and sccondl}-, to the growing scarcit}' of 
 slaves ; for, b}- the gradual extension of our influence and 
 stations in the interior, the East Africa Company was shutting 
 off their usual sources of supply. 
 
 The actual s)-stem of culti\ation carried on was primitive 
 to a degree. A native apparent!)- cleared at random any 
 plot of land of its jungle, weeds and bush, which he burned, 
 lea\ing the roots in the soil ; he then hoed up the land, and
 
 I TRAVEiiJ IN EAST AFRICA 23 
 
 after raising a few crops of Guinea corn, sim-sim or maize, 
 abandoned it when the soil was exhausted, and went off to 
 clear another plot in the same manner. The abandoned plots 
 soon reverting back to bush, land being plentiful enough 
 everywhere for carrying on this wasteful system, the appear- 
 ance of the country, even in the most fertile portions, is 
 marred by numerous patches of once cultivated land. 
 
 Cultivation at the time of my arrival was in a state of de- 
 terioration, being worked on a harmful and primitive system 
 with a steadily decreasing slave suppl)'. 
 
 To remedy this state of things, it seemed to me that the 
 most urgent reform required was the development of a better 
 labour supply and the improvement of agricultural methods. 
 
 As to the Labour question I could not help thinking that 
 as a commencement, the introduction of thirty or forty ryots 
 selected from the cotton and tobacco producing districts of 
 Southern India, would exercise a stimulating and educating 
 effect upon a race, not without knowledge and capacit}', but 
 requiring to be taught, and totall}' wanting in the industrious 
 and thrifty habits that distinguish the Hindoo peasant. 
 
 The question of cattle for draught and ploughing purposes 
 was another important matter. The Arabs, through dread of 
 the cattle disease that swept down the coast periodically from 
 Somaliland, were deterred from possessing many animals, 
 and, as I pointed out in my first Report dealing with these 
 matters, a small beginning might at once be made, as an 
 example, by training a few bullocks and native donkeys to 
 plough with the small light ploughs that are used in India, 
 and could be imported for the purpose. 
 
 I have been led to enlarge upon this subject because of a 
 visit I received the day after my arrival, from the chief of a 
 village of the Wanika, a numerous tribe which inhabits the 
 coast district. The Liwali spoke to him for me, and the 
 chief expressed his willingness, and indeed the eagerness of 
 his people, to hire themselves out to work. I promised to 
 pay them daily, and I thought the prospect of utilizing such 
 a labour supply most encouraging. I understood that a large 
 number of their villages existed round about, and if they 
 could be induced to work regularl)' the great difficult}^ of
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 labour supply would be overcome. Of course such people 
 could only be unskilled labourers, but even so, it would be a 
 great point gained to secure a number of them, and the 
 knowledge that money was to be earned on the plantations 
 could not fail to attract others. Later on the results of this 
 experiment will be shown. 
 
 In the afternoon I took my first walk through the shamba, 
 and inspected the cotton, the seed of which had been given 
 to SuHman by Bell-Smith two years before. It was very 
 scattered, and that any plants survived at all after the 
 neglect it had suffered, spoke volumes for its hardiness and 
 suitability to the country — it had been planted amongst 
 pomegranate trees. As a beginning, I proposed clearing 
 this cotton area with W'anika labourers. Further on there 
 were a few date-palms which had been planted by Suliman. 
 Apparently the whole of Magarini Hill had been cleared by 
 him at one time, but now there were only a few patches of 
 metamah growing here and there, and even that was not in 
 very good condition. The soil on which the cotton grew was 
 red loam with strong indications of iron, shown b\' the black 
 markings wherever the upper surface had been washed away ; 
 elsewhere it was of a rich black sandy loam, and rank 
 vegetation covered the portions that had lapsed from 
 cultivation. 
 
 The following day ^July 23) I went to visit two Wanika 
 villages. I was much pleased with these people; they seemed 
 good-humoured and willing. The nearer village was small, 
 the other much larger. The head-man or chief of the 
 smaller village said he could bring me many people, men, 
 nomen and children, to work — so I went away, looking 
 forward with pleasure to the working out of this experiment. 
 Close by, we obtained a fine view of the country towards the 
 west, and beyond that, as far as the eye could see, there was 
 nothing but virgin bush — the whole of the land presenting 
 the same undulating character. The Wanika said there was 
 no river nearer than the Sabaki. This part of the country 
 was apparently quite unexplored, as they told us that we 
 were the first Europeans who had entered their villages. A 
 large crowd surrounded us ; the women were fairly good-
 
 A W.WIKA HKAU-MAN.
 
 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 27 
 
 looking, and wore a curious petticoat very similar to a 
 Scotch kilt. One girl had her hair all strung with beads, 
 which looked ver}^ curious and prett}-. We waited a while 
 to see the head-man, but he was awa}'. However, we saw him 
 in the afternoon, and the Liwali acting as interpreter, I agreed 
 with the chief on the following terms for labourers — For the 
 men, twelve pice a day ; for women, ten pice ; and for 
 children, six pice a day ; the working hours to be from 7 
 till 1 1 a.m. and from i till 5 p.m. The head-man guaranteed 
 to suppl}' me with fifty people from his village at any 
 
 UAXIKA VILL.\GE. 
 
 time, the pay to be given dail)' on completion of the day's 
 M'ork. I felt that this arrangement was an important step. 
 
 Later on, Bell-Smith and I went to inspect the water 
 supply. The scarcity of water in Africa strikes a stranger 
 very forcibl}-. At Magarini the water had to be carried a 
 distance of half a mile, and this was considered quite near. 
 There were three wells in the sugar-cane valley below 
 Magarini Hill. In the nearest the water was discoloured and 
 not good, but five to eight minutes' walk further on were two 
 others yielding good fresh water. I heard they gave out in^ 
 very dry seasons. 
 
 On the slope of Magarini Hill there are two springs; the
 
 28 TKAXHLS IN I- AST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 water is quite brackish and undrinkable. This curious freak — 
 whether by percolation or otherwise — had injuriously affected 
 the -sugar-cane in the valley below, the sap bec(jming quite 
 salty. 
 
 Bell-Smith proved exceedingly kind, and his local know- 
 ledge was most useful to me in my first days in the country. 
 He was of particular assistance in endeavouring to find me a 
 good head-man whom I could leave in charge of the plantations 
 during my absences on other duties, and recommended his 
 labour contractor (for loading Arab dhows during the grain 
 shipping season), sending to Melindi for him. 
 
 A brief description of the East African slaves and their 
 customs will form a suitable close to the present chapter, and 
 may prove of interest, for my duties have led me to live and 
 mi.x amongst them perhaps more intimately than falls to the 
 lot of the average European. 
 
 Brought down to the coast, the captive is sold to the 
 highest bidder, the average price for a full-grown adult being 
 .^40 ; roughly, about ^J of our money. He now becomes 
 as absolutely the property of his master as his dog or other 
 domestic animal, for the remainder of his life, and this holds 
 not only for himself, but for any possible children he may 
 have. 
 
 Should he wish to marry a fellow-slave, he has to pay his 
 master a fee of 82. Should it be asked how he is to obtain 
 this, let me remark that the life of a slave, however intolerable 
 such must naturall}' appear in our eyes, is not really the 
 utterly miserable and wretched one that most English people 
 imagine it to be. 
 
 Eirst as to his work. For all the principal cultivating 
 operations, such as harvesting and threshing the corn, he has 
 to turn out and work from eight in the morning till five at 
 night ; but for the .sowing of the grain he is required to be out 
 by early dawn. For all other minor operations, such as 
 clearing new land, weeding, etc., a daily task fixed b\- custom 
 is allotted to each as follows — 
 
 Clearing new land, one hundred \ards by four yards ; hoeing 
 cleared land, two hundred \-arcls by four )-ards. 
 
 The slaves are general!)- worked in gangs, varying from
 
 WANIKA WOMF.N.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 five to twenty, each gang being in charge of a head-man, 
 called " nakoa," also a slave, who measures out the various 
 allotments, and is responsible for the work done by his 
 particular gang. 
 
 Women are told off, and given small produce, such as fruit, 
 cassava, etc., to the value of a quarter-dollar, which: they sell 
 in the market-places and elsewhere, accounting for the value 
 of the proceeds to their owner. 
 
 The privileges of a slave are these — On all " shambas," as 
 native plantations are called, each slave is entitled — 
 
 EAST AFRICAN SLAVES. 
 
 During the dry season to two free days during each week — 
 every Thursday and Friday. 
 
 In the wet season, which usually commences by the middle 
 or end of March, he receives only one holiday in the week — 
 on Friday (the Mohamedan Sunday) ; besides this, each slave 
 actually working on the plantation receives during the whole 
 of the cultivating season one " kibaba " (about one pint) of 
 meal daily. 
 
 Women and children watching the grain against birds (the 
 work being lighter) receive no free days. 
 
 When drawing toddy from coco-nut trees, the slaves 
 employed get no holiday either ; but all toddy drawn by 
 them on Friday is their own, to dispose of as they wish.
 
 32 TRA\ELS I.\ EAST AFRICA CH. I 
 
 Each slave is allowed an allotment for his own cultivation, 
 and the size of this varies from two hundred by ten yards, 
 to two hundred b)- fift)- )-ards, the produce from which belongs 
 to him entirel)'. 
 
 Xo owner has an}- right to enter a slave's house, unless in 
 a very extreme case, such as searching for a runaway, etc. 
 The master also never interferes with, nor has any claim on, 
 any poultry or other domestic animals reared and owned by 
 his slaves. 
 
 And, lastl}% concerning the actual treatment of the slaves. 
 It is entirely against an owner's interest to ill-treat or overwork 
 them, for if ill-used or harshly dealt with in any way, they 
 invariably escape to the various runawa)'-slave settlements 
 up the Sabaki and elsewhere in the bush.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 LIFE AT MAGARINI 
 
 Friendliness of the Liwalis — Nasur bin Suliman's -Shambas — Charming 
 Country— Commissariat Troubles — Choice of Head-quarters — Silence of 
 the African Night — Shambas under my Supervision — Luxuriant A'ege- 
 tation — Proposed Improvements — My Native Staff— Engagement of 
 Head-man — M'Doro the Nika Head-man— Native Path to Melindi — 
 The Jorori River — A Ducking — Dum Palms — Native Clearings — 
 Suitability of the Soil for Cotton — Ferry over the Sabaki — A Primitive 
 Bridge — Return to the Shambas. 
 
 I TAKE this opportunit}- to again acknowledge with thanks 
 all the assistance and friendliness that I received from the 
 Liwali of Melindi. He entered into my proposed schemes 
 with great zeal and heartiness, and I found him an unusually 
 intelligent and liberal-minded gentleman. He sat talking 
 and smoking with us and joined us at our meals, we exchanged 
 dishes, and indeed he often kept our table going when our 
 own supplies ran short, for I was not proficient in African 
 housekeeping at first. 
 
 The Liwali of Mombrui also came to the rescue, and kindl)' 
 supplied us with milk until I got some goats. 
 
 In the afternoon of Jul}- 24 the labour-contractor from 
 Melindi arrived. He seemed a suitable man and I offered to 
 engage him, but he said he would have to consult his family, 
 and returned to do so. I afterwards heard, that for family 
 reasons he could not accept my offer — this was a disappoint- 
 ment. The Liwali then suggested a man who was in charge 
 of one of his own shambas, the son of an influential man in 
 Melindi, and I finally engaged him. The next day the Liwali 
 and I started off to inspect Xasur bin Suliman's shambas, 
 also administered by the Companj-, and as the}' were about 
 
 33 1^
 
 34 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 five miles off, we arranged to breakfast there. On the 
 way we passed many baobab trees, the large trunks and 
 stunted branches of which are typical objects in the African 
 landscape. We also passed some good patches of metamah 
 and a good deal of abandoned land. Land once cleared 
 becomes the property of the man who clears it, remaining his 
 even when abandoned, and such land can now be bought 
 very cheaply owing to the scarcity of slaves. 
 
 I noticed that " bomas " (as the stockades or thorn fences 
 are called) were erected only round slave villages and per- 
 manently cultivated areas, such as plantations of coco-nuts, 
 mangoes, etc. All other cultivation was carried on entirely 
 in the open, the different fields being separated only by 
 patches of once cleared land. About two and a half miles 
 from Magarini we came to an important shamba of Suliman's, 
 called Shamba Baraka, from the name of the original owner 
 (Baraka) ; it was the largest that I had seen, and was 
 surrounded on all sides by a high boma fence. It contained 
 a large number of flourishing young coco-nut trees, numerous 
 bananas and plantains, patches of rice, sugar-cane, and Guinea 
 corn, with a number of fine lime and orange trees, but was 
 overrun with grass and weeds, as indeed was the whole 
 property. I was given to understand that since the deporta- 
 tion of Suliman, the labourers on this property had become 
 a by-word for laziness and rascality, which under the circum- 
 stances was perhaps not surprising. Sixty of them were 
 absent serving as caravan-porters — a favourite employment 
 with the natives, as they receive higher wages as well as 
 rations, and they like the roving life. I foresaw much up-hill 
 work in re-organizing a demoralized labour force of this 
 character. 
 
 Leaving Shamba Baraka we passed through some charming 
 countr}-, stretches of Guinea corn extending as far as could be 
 seen in every direction, varied with well-weeded fields of rice 
 and sim-sim. The Liwali told me that only the best land 
 would be retained, the remainder being allowed to revert to 
 bush. W'c now passed through the native town or village of 
 J)0)na-Upandi,\Qry clean-looking, and surrounded by coco-nut 
 plantations and mango trees.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 After two hours' walking we arrived at Nasur bin Suliman's 
 plantation. It had a good boma round it, but owing to the 
 scarcity of labour it was very little cultivated ; in about the 
 centre there were some slave huts and a large house, partly 
 a mosque, the habitation of the former owner, but which was 
 fast falling into decay. The outside cultivation, exclusive of 
 the slaves' own plots, consisted of two patches of metamah 
 and one of sim-sim ; the surrounding country was gently 
 undulating and the ground seemed suitable for the plough, 
 the absence of stones in the soil being a striking character- 
 istic. Another of Suliman's shambas was situated close to 
 the village of Boma-Upandi, and named after it. It contained 
 about six hundred coco-nut trees, large and small, and some 
 cassava and rice. 
 
 On July 26 the new head-man, Ali bin Jumah bin Ab- 
 dulla, arrived from Melindi, and I engaged him at twenty-five 
 rupees a month. After dinner the Liwali came to sit with 
 us as usual, and we had a long conversation respecting the 
 shambas, and the grave necessity for re-organizing the labour 
 supply. The next morning our provisions ran short for 
 breakfast, and I could only muster bad tea and chupatties. 
 Latterly we had been living in an uncertain way as regards 
 food — some days there were no fowls to be had, other days 
 we had plenty. An old biscuit-box contained our sugar ; 
 our pepper-castor was a small bottle with a piece of perforated 
 paper tied over it ; our plates, cups, saucers, and saucepans 
 were of enamelled iron, but one day our food was full of bits 
 of enamel, which were not pleasant eating ! The saucepan- 
 lining had come to grief in some way. Our water supply 
 was scanty and its colour hardly inviting — it always left a 
 yellow sediment of earth at the bottom of the. glass — and a 
 bath every third day was a positive luxur)-. 
 
 As I began to understand the lie of the various shambas, I 
 decided to make Magarini Hill my head-quarters as being 
 most central. 
 
 At about 9 a.m., on the 27th, the Liwali, Bell-Smith, and I 
 left for the lower shambas, visiting several on our way to 
 Shamba M'Pandiani, the largest of all, and the one I had 
 visited on my way up. Besides the slave village, it contained
 
 36 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 a half-built house, kitchen and bath-house erected by Suliman, 
 who had made this place his low country residence, and here 
 we pitched our tents. The Liwali left in the afternoon to 
 return to Melindi, and I was quite sorry to part with him, 
 being quite charmed with his manners and ways — he being the 
 first Arab gentleman I had as yet intimately associated with. 
 
 The difference of temperature as compared with Magarini 
 was very marked ; we had no cold wind in the morning, and 
 there were very few mosquitoes at night. 
 
 That afternoon and the following day we went over the 
 remainder of the shambas, a detailed list of which I give 
 further on. We spent a very quiet evening in camp, the last 
 I was to have with Bell-Smith, who was returning to Melindi 
 next day. I parted from him with regret, for he had been 
 most obliging. He left early the next morning, and I was 
 now quite alone in East Africa for the first time. 
 
 1 returned to Magarini to my solitary breakfast. In the 
 afternoon the Liwali of Mombrui arrived and quite concurred 
 in my proposed plans, and after going through and handing 
 over to me the accounts of the property, which being kept in 
 the Arabic manner were complicated and puzzling to a degree, 
 he returned to Mombrui. I then called all the head-men to- 
 gether, and addressed them through my interpreter Ramazan. 
 I impressed upon them the fact that I had come up as the 
 Company's representative, to do away with all the old bad 
 practices and ways, that a new and brighter time had begun 
 for them all, and that I looked and trusted to them to help 
 and assist me as much as the}^ could. 
 
 It however took the people some time to get over their 
 surprise at a white man actually coming to live amongst them. 
 On their return from work in the evening, a curious crowd 
 stood a little distance away watching my every action with 
 the keenest interest and wonder. To see me eating, writing, 
 or reading — doing all this in their own village — was at first 
 even a greater source of interest than the preparation of their 
 own evening meal. In the mornings too, however early I got 
 up, I was sure to find, on coming out of m}- tent, a number of 
 W^anika already squatting outside patiently waiting to get a 
 sight of the white man and to watch his curious wa)'s.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 39 
 
 My first evening felt very lonely, but I was interested in 
 my work, and that helped to counteract my sense of solitude. 
 The air was wonderfully cool and still, and I was much struck 
 by the silence of the African night. 
 
 I here give the list of shambas on Suliman's estate ; the 
 
 annexed map will make their position easier to understand. 
 Of enclosed plantations, and not including Magarini, there 
 \^'ere ele\-en — 
 
 I. Shamba Baraka, very large, and containing numbers of 
 }'oung coco-nuts mostly four years old, bananas, and patches 
 of sugar-cane, rice, and cassava, with man)- fruit trees.
 
 40 TRAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 2. S/uunba Aivalthi, or Feruzi, noted for the large yield of 
 its coco-nut trees. Besides the usual sugar-cane and cassava, 
 there were also a few betel-nut palms, and about fifty silk- 
 cotton trees. 
 
 3. S/iainba Upandi (about four miles from Magarini), 
 called after the village of that name. t 
 
 4. Shainba Kozi, planted with young coco-nuts, bananas, 
 and rice. 
 
 5. Shaniba M'Tusi, open, and chiefly under grain, with • 
 some banana clumps. 
 
 6. Shaniba Abedi, another coco-nut shamba. 
 
 7. Shamba M' Pandiani, the largest of the group, and 
 containing some very fine coco-nuts and a few betel-nut palms. 
 
 8. Shamba M'Selm, chiefly planted with mango trees. 
 
 9. Shamba Kitanga Kekiibzva, another mango plantation 
 with clumps of pineapples and many fruit trees. 
 
 10. Shamba Saraboko, containing a small swamp, the chief 
 products being many mango trees, some coco-nuts and betel- 
 nut palms, and numerous banana clumps. 
 
 11. Shamba Nghanima, all coco-nuts. 
 
 Besides these the estate comprised a good deal of open 
 land, on five portions of which clearings for Guinea corn had 
 been made. The whole of these were now under my super- 
 vision, and contained altogether nearly nineteen thousand 
 coco-nut trees. 
 
 I had not realized until now that the property was so large 
 or so valuable, or that the soil could produce what it did. 
 Everything attempted by Suliman had done well, and the 
 result showed the great productiveness and fertility of the 
 country, and what could be accomplished by one enterprising 
 man. All the different products, such as coco-nuts, betel- 
 nut palms, mangoes, etc., compared most favourably with 
 those of India and Ceylon, notably in the yield of coco-nuts. 
 (The Liwali of Melindi estimated the yield for this year from 
 all the shambas at from 10,000 to 12,000 nuts.) Custard- 
 apples, oranges, limes, sweet limes, shaddock, pomegranates, 
 fig trees, jack trees, bananas, cotton plants, capsicums, all 
 throve here most luxuriantly — and of the fine appearance of 
 the Guinea corn and sesame I have already spoken.
 
 II TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 41 
 
 There were, however, many things that called for immediate 
 attention, such as the appointment of watchmen to the re- 
 spective shambas — robberies of fruit and produce being carried 
 on wholesale ; weeding the different shambas, which were in a 
 terribly neglected condition ; gathering coco-nuts, mango and 
 plantains, etc. There was also the matter of transport to 
 the coast by camels and donkeys to be organized. Altogether 
 a good deal of work. 
 
 '^Here let me mention some of the ideas that occurred to me 
 from what I had seen up to the present, as to the cultivation 
 to be carried on. 
 
 First, I decidedly thought that for the purposes of these 
 plantations, two of the lightest ryot ploughs should be obtained 
 from India. Secondly, in the absence of cattle, donkeys could 
 be trained for draught work. It had been further suggested 
 by the Directors that a {e\v of the Indian police, which the 
 Company kept stationed at Witu, might be utilized for 
 ploughing and for training future stock, and this plan was in 
 my own opinion also the best and cheapest, as otherwise 
 the hoeing of the land I proposed clearing would involve 
 heavy expense. 
 
 Thirdly, I proposed experimenting with the cultivation of the 
 various varieties of American and Indian cotton, for which I 
 thought the country well adapted ; tobacco, and such other 
 products as I found by experience suitable to the climate. 
 The pepper-vine I hoped would do well, the shaded and wind- 
 sheltered area afforded by the various mango plantations 
 offering a splendid field for future experiments. 
 
 It was further proposed that I should visit the islands of 
 Zanzibar and Pemba to obtain information on their spice 
 cultivation, and what products could be introduced on the 
 mainland. 
 
 This is the list of my newly-organized native staff. They 
 were — 
 
 r. A/i bill JuniaJi^ the head overseer. 
 . 2. Nakoa Feruzi, at seven rupees a month at Magarini 
 shambas. 
 
 3. Nakoa Mabriikt% at Shamba M'Pandianf. 
 
 4. Nakoa Anibari, to accompany the head overseer, and
 
 4^: TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA char 
 
 convey his orders and instructions. These two at five rupees 
 monthl}-. 
 
 5. Lastl}-, Saif bin Salini, the old head-man whom I re- 
 tained for the present. 
 
 The morning after Bell-Smith's departure I received a 
 letter from him, his messengers also bringing me ten English 
 rifles with pouches and belts and two hundred rounds of am- 
 munition. He also sent me a boy called Uledi, a former 
 slave of Suliman's, who knew the shambas well, and I engaged 
 him for my personal service. 
 
 The same morning AH bin Jumah arrived, and I had a long 
 conversation with him, assigning him a residence in Suliman's 
 house. I instructed him first to go round all the shambas 
 one b}' one, estimating the crop of each product they con- 
 tained ; to measure the length and breadth of each, so as to 
 have an accurate record of their area ; to report on the 
 number of watchmen required, with a view to appointing 
 them forthwith, giving each man a gun, and holding him 
 strictly responsible for his special guard. 
 
 That afternoon I had some practice in simple surger}-, which 
 every European in such circumstances is expected to know. 
 A native was bitten by a snake in the foot ; he said it was a 
 black snake, but it could not have been a very poisonous one, 
 for though the man had been bitten some hours before he came 
 to me, the foot was not swollen. I lanced the wound and 
 applied a poultice of hot metamah to it. I also dressed the 
 hand of Saif bin Salim, which had been cut some days before. 
 
 The next day (Frida)-) was the Mohamedan Sunda}-, 
 which I spent in writing reports. AH bin Jumah, having 
 nothing else to do, made himself a great nuisance by coming 
 to m)' tent all da)-. I sent him off on Saturda\- morning to 
 collect the people, and I followed with a view of having my 
 labour force numbered and re-organized. 
 
 I found the total muster-roll of the estate amounted to 264, 
 men, women, and children, but of these sixt}- were awa\- as 
 porters and fifteen others missing, so that the number available 
 was only 189. I directed AH bin Jumah (whom I shall call 
 Ali henceforward) to inquire after the absentees, while ten 
 of the trustiest men were appointed watchmen, one to each
 
 II TRA^'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 43 
 
 shamba, and armed with an Enfield rifle and six rounds of 
 ammunition ; I offered a reward of five rupees for the first 
 thief caught red-handed. I then paid a second visit to the 
 Wanika village to see M'Doro the head-man, and to remind him 
 of his promise to send his people to work. 
 
 Old M'Doro came to return my call in the afternoon, and 
 asked for a present for himself for suppl}-ing labour. I told 
 him he would get it all right if the labour was plentiful. I 
 then went down with Ali to the lower shambas to re-organize 
 and set matters straight there. 
 
 I took up m}- quarters in Shamba M'Pandiani, where I 
 found the water suppl}- very good on the ^\■hole ; it was ob- 
 tained from water-holes in a sugar-cane patch, which were 
 always full, the ]\Iagarini people, when their own supply gave 
 out, sending down here for it, as did also the people in the 
 neighbourhood. Having settled things down here, I returned 
 to Magarini, pausing on my way to watch some natives 
 clearing land for sim-sim ; a small hoe (costing four annas) 
 was the only implement they used. 
 
 A day or two afterwards the sick-list that came up for 
 treatment comprised only one case of dysentery, one of cough, 
 and one of ulcer ; and to save some of my time I resolved to 
 instruct Ali bin Jumah in the art of doctoring his work-people 
 in future. 
 
 I again sent word to the Wanika village for people to come 
 to work, but as the head-man was absent none came. How- 
 ever, M'Doro came next day and apologized, promising to 
 bring twenty Wanika on the morrow ; but he disappointed 
 me again, and it was not until a week later that I got any. 
 The Liwali of Mombrui, from whom I had a visit at this time, 
 proposed to tell the Wanika that unless they worked for me 
 the)- would have to clear off the property and settle elsewhere, 
 but I thought it better to try a little patience first. 
 
 The first thief was caught, and brought before me on 
 August 6 ; he was a boy, detected in the act of stealing a 
 sugar-cane. The offence was a very venial one, but to keep 
 my promise, I paid the watchman the promised reward of 
 five rupees, and gave the boy a good talking to. 
 
 Havine to see the Liwali of Melindi concerning various
 
 44 IKAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chaf. 
 
 matters, and wishing to travel by the Wanika road so as to 
 see that part of the country, I sent for some of these people 
 to show me the way. At first they refused altogether, but 
 after a long and troublesome " shauri " (as they call a con- 
 ference) they at last consented to come and carry my things 
 for a payment of three annas a day and " posho " (food 
 allowance) for each man there and back. 
 
 Next morning I set out for Melindi with four Wanika 
 carrying my loads ; my interpreter, a cook, and two boys, 
 passing through the two Wanika villages on the way. 
 M'Doro and the other head-man came out to apologize for 
 not having sent the people to work, and again promised to 
 send them, so I hoped it would be all right now. After 
 leaving the villages we followed a steep narrow path down 
 the hill, which gradually sloped away into the plain. 
 
 Reaching the level, I crossed a large, flat, grass field, the 
 path being slippery and sticky, from the swampy character of 
 the land, which I was told was all under water in the wet 
 season. We then ascended an undulating piece of ground 
 with short grass and clumps of bush, descending on the 
 opposite side into another flat grass swamp. In fact the 
 country showed alternations of partly dried swamps, with 
 rising ground presenting a park-like appearance, and covered 
 with short grass and clumps of bush. The soil was ev'ery- 
 where black and good, and in the swamps was invariably 
 black sticky clay. 
 
 In passing through some thickish bush, I noticed for the 
 first time hippopotamus tracks. Just beyond, we entered a 
 Wanika village, protected by a strong palisade of posts ; the 
 village (Swahili, '' Mdi") was called Makungo Waziin, and 
 the head-man, Mahawa, told me that I was the second white 
 man who had passed that way. I bought three wild duck 
 from him for eight annas, and was told they abounded in the 
 neighbouring river, and that the people snared them. They 
 also offered me a heron for sale, which I declined. On the 
 other side of this village flows the river Jorori, a small stream 
 which winds through flat, swampy grass-land. It dries up 
 during the hot weather, but just now, owing to the rains, was 
 pretty full. I had to cross it twice ; the first time the passage
 
 II TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 47 
 
 was comparatively easy, and I was carried over on the shoulders 
 of my boy and the interpreter ; the second time the stream 
 was wider, and waist-deep ; my people stumbled in crossing, 
 and of course I got ducked. Between the two crossings the 
 path led through high grass, and the soil presented the usual 
 black clayey appearance ; on both sides of the path were 
 numerous traces of hippopotami, which frequented the place 
 at night. 
 
 For half-an-hour's tramp the country was again park-like in 
 appearance, with short grass, and clumps of bush as before, 
 the soil throughout black clay. 
 
 We emerged once more on the banks of the Jorori river, 
 where it was from 30 to 40 feet wide, although, as I have 
 said, it quite dries up in the hot season. Leaving the river we 
 climbed up a steep bank by an extremely bad path past an old 
 Wanika clearing, and then for a good hour tramped through 
 high grass quite above one's head and overgrowing the path, 
 which was a mere track. In the distance, here and there, were 
 a few Wanika metamah clearings. On the edge of the 
 grass-land we passed some clumps of dum palms, called by 
 the natives " makome," also " makoche." In the distance 
 these trees much resemble coco-nut or palmyra palms, the 
 only difference being in their branching stems, often from 
 three to five, very tapering and slender, and crowned b}' a 
 bunch of large feathery leaves. This is the tree, I was in- 
 formed, from which the slaves on the runaway settlements 
 draw toddy. 
 
 At 10 a.m. we came upon cultivation again. The path now 
 led through a succession of sim-sim and metamah fields. The 
 sim-sim was particularly fine, the highest and best I had yet 
 seen, some being in flower, but most of it already ripe. We 
 reached the Sabaki at eleven o'clock, three and a half hours' 
 marching from Magarini. I had breakfast here, and resting 
 till one o'clock, crossed the river in a canoe. The other side 
 consisted of steep up-and-down hillocks (whitish soil), and in 
 the hollows were clumps of castor-oil plants growing wild. 
 The path now led through flat grass-land. The same general 
 features seemed everywhere to predominate ; small clusters of 
 huts being, as a rule, surrounded with patches of metamah,
 
 48 TR.WKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 sim-sim, and " kunde" (beans), interspersed with bush and old 
 cleared land. The tobacco patches were all small — this 
 product did not seem to be largely cultivated. 
 
 Early in the afternoon I passed through a large coco-nut 
 plantation, with sim-sim growing underneath ; the trees 
 regularl)- planted, generall)' at a distance of 30 feet each 
 way ; I noticed few vacancies. Another coco-nut shamba 
 which I presently passed through presented pretty much the 
 same appearance, the trees being regularly planted at the same 
 distance apart. The next plantation was one of fine mangoes 
 enclosed within a boma, and belonged to the Liwali of 
 Mombasa ; after passing it, the path led through uncleared 
 bush until the sea-shore was reached at 2.30 p.m. Half-an- 
 hour's walk along the beach brought me to Melindi, the 
 whole journe}' having been done in a five-hours march. I 
 spent the next two days in Melindi on business, then returned 
 by another route to Boma-Upandi, after again passing the 
 Liwali of Mombasa's mango shamba. Here I branched off 
 and passed through an Arab's neglected and grass-grown 
 coco-nut plantation, then through clumps of mangoes, sim- 
 sim, metamah, beans, and bush, the soil being ever}-where of 
 black friable loam. 
 
 The more I saw of the countr)-, the more I was impressed 
 with its adaptabilit}' for cotton cultivation. The black soil 
 and freedom from stones, and the easy nature of the cultiva- 
 tion, would all be points in its favour which might induce the 
 natives to take it up. Cotton, being a permanent product, 
 requires but little attention ; the people could easily pick 
 and store it in their own houses for eventual delivery at 
 Melindi, where a hand-press might be kept for baling. These 
 remarks ma)' also apph* to tobacco, which could be much more 
 extensively grown than at present, the leaf being purchased 
 from the people and cured in central depots, as is done in 
 Sumatra. I reached the Sabaki river in one and three- 
 quarters of an hour from Melindi. The countr}- on both sides is 
 steep and hill}', and the banks are high, and from this point I 
 obtained a good view of the countr}' with Mangea Hill in 
 the distance. I had to wait half-an-hour at Salim bin 
 Abdulla's ferr}' for the ferr}'-man, the river here running ver}-
 
 II TRA\"ELS IX EAST AFRICA 51 
 
 deep and strong, and in heavy rains overflowing its banks on 
 both sides. Lower down a school of hippopotami were 
 floundering about and snorting. After crossing, we climbed 
 up a steep bank of metamah and past a swamp, over which 
 was a most primitive bridge, simply a number of loose 
 sticks thrown pell-mell lengthwise across supports. The 
 path now led by a village or group of slave-huts which were 
 surrounded by coco-nut and mango trees and fields of sim- 
 sim, rice, and bananas. I finally reached Shamba M'Pandiani 
 one hour after leaving the Sabaki, so I made the journey of 
 twelve or thirteen miles in something less than four hours. 
 I afterwards found this to be the best road, as it passed 
 almost entirely through cultivated land, was nearly direct,, 
 and, with the exception of the Sabaki river, there was no 
 water to cross.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 FIRST EXPERIENCES ON AN EAST AFRICAN SHAMBA 
 
 Preliminary Troubles — Incendiarism — A Refractory Native — A " Shauri"' 
 — An Encouraging Change — A Valuable Ally — My Wanika Labourers — 
 Agricultural Seasons — Seed-time and Harvest — Various Products — A 
 Large Muster — Daily Routine — Harvesting Bananas — Natives' Dislike 
 of Rain — A Reformed Character — Visits of Inspection — Site for Experi- 
 mental Nurseries — A Good Start — Proposed Tour up the Sabaki — Pre- 
 liminary Arrangements — Final Instructions^Personnel of my Party — 
 First Night in Camp. 
 
 I FOUND All bin Jumah at MTandiani. He had been 
 round all the shambas as instructed ; the results were not 
 much, but showed him to be hard-working and obedient. He 
 had measured the shambas, but his measurements were not of 
 much use, and he simply gave me a list of the various products 
 growing upon them, which I knew before. However, he 
 showed a willingness to carry out orders as well as he could, 
 and this was something in his favour. 
 
 AH suggested that the people should be kept working 
 simultaneously on all the shambas, but this I negatived, and 
 ordered that the weeding of the shambas should commence 
 in earnest next day, each one being taken in turn, thoroughly 
 cleaned and put to rights, after which all the growing trees 
 were to be counted, so that we might have an exact knowledge 
 of what each shamba contained. I directed Ali to begin 
 with Shamba Baraka and to send all the people up there, 
 except the watchmen and those guarding the metamah from 
 the birds. Ali informed me that the sim-sim at Magarini was 
 now weeded. He obtained permission to reside at MTandiani 
 shamba as it was more central for his work. 
 
 It rained during the night, and the morning was wet. The 
 
 52
 
 CH. Ill TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 53 
 
 workpeople, in number forty-three, went off to Shamba 
 Baraka at 8.30. The Wanika did not turn up, and later in 
 the morning M'Doro came again and made excuses, promising 
 faithfully that they should come next da)'. I was obliged to 
 content myself with the hope that it might be so. 
 
 I ordered thirty or forty hoes to be got for the Wanika, 
 and arranged for one of the watchmen to act as head-man 
 and look after them. Twelve of them came next day ; 
 they straggled in by twos and threes, the first lot coming 
 about eight o'clock and the last about nine. I put them to 
 weed the cotton. They were knocked off at eleven o'clock 
 for mid-day meal, and at one o'clock not a single one had 
 returned. I was obliged to send off a watchman named 
 Bakari to hunt them up in their village, and they straggled 
 back at about 2.30 p.m. I was not disposed to be exacting 
 on the first day, and paid them m}'self at 5 p.m. Next 
 da)' twenty-eight came — a decided improvement — they 
 came earlier, and returned about 2 p.m. in the afternoon. 
 When I went over to Baraka shamba on the first day of the 
 weeding, etc., I was much pleased with the work done. They 
 had hoed up a considerable portion of the ground, the 
 bananas had been trimmed and the old stumps uprooted. 
 In the afternoon an occurrence took place which illustrated 
 the demoralized state of the people. The high grass and 
 bush was fired b)^ one of the people, on purpose, so the man 
 being brought to me in the evening I warned him that I would 
 have him punished. Fortunatel)' the fire was put out before 
 much damage was done. The man who reported that it was 
 extinguished was so insolent in his behaviour, repeating his 
 insolence before a number of the others, that I sent for Nakoa 
 Feruzi, and told him that I would send the offender to the 
 chain-gang at Melindi, his insolence having been so public 
 and repeated, that I considered an example necessary. 
 In the evening P'eruzi asked me to forgive the man, but I 
 refused. Next morning he renewed the appeal, but I remained 
 firm, and was pleased to see that my determined action had 
 made an impression. 
 
 I continued my usual muster of the sick, whom I had told 
 to attend every morning and evening for treatment. Coughs,
 
 54 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 dysentery, and bad ulcers were the prevailing complaints ; 
 and later in the evening I went to the lower village to see a 
 man who was extremely ill from lung complaint. 
 
 At about 9 a.m. the Liwali of Mombrui came to see me 
 by appointment, and while waiting the arrival of the Wanika 
 head-man, who had been sent for, we had a very interesting 
 conversation. I liked him extremely, and he was of the 
 greatest use and help to me in many ways. When the 
 Wanika arrived the Liwali spoke to them for a considerable 
 time about sending their people to work. An African con- 
 ference (or "shauri") does not seem possible without endless 
 talk, and on the present occasion the head-man M'Doro took 
 a leading part. He said the pay I gave was not enough, and 
 asserted that at the late interview with Mr. Bell-Smith, the 
 Liwali of Melindi, and myself, I had promised to pay four 
 annas a day. This being disposed of, they next demanded 
 thirteen pice for the men ; but this I refused to give. The 
 interview lasted fully two hours, and I thought nothing would 
 be settled, but at last an agreement was come to that the 
 pay was to be the same as before, that I was to find the tools, 
 and that the head-men should receive a present monthly, and 
 that the hours of work were to be unaltered, the Wanika 
 promising to come all together in the morning. I also thought 
 it an encouraging sign that they asked permission to clear 
 some of the bush close by for their own use ; this permission 
 I gladly gave them, for the more the Wanika settled round 
 the place, the better would be the labour suppl}'. The head- 
 men asked to be excused for not sending many people just 
 then, as they had their own cultivation to attend to, but in 
 the dry weather I was promised any number. 
 
 On the whole I regarded this arrangement and interview as 
 very important ; there were fully fifteen Wanika head-men 
 present, and the greatest praise was due to the Liwali for the 
 trouble he took, and for the tact and patience he displa\-ed in 
 interpreting my wishes. In the afternoon I again visited 
 Haraka shamba, on which there had been eighty-six hands 
 working ; they had done a good deal, and the cleared portion 
 presented quite a different appearance. By ascending an 
 ant-hill, T was enabled for the first time to see the whole of
 
 AI.I BIN SAMM, LIWALI Ol' MOMl'.HUI, AM) HIS HKu 11I1;K-1N-I.A W.
 
 Ill TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 57 
 
 the shamba ; it was extensive, and surrounded on all sides by 
 a good fence. The principal products in it were coco-nuts, 
 mostly four }-ears old ; bananas, patches of sugar-cane, and a 
 little metamah and rice of indifferent qualit)-. 
 
 On the morning of August 17 as man}- as fort}'-four W'anika 
 came to work, and I put a number of them to cut some drains 
 in the cotton land. To m}' surprise the soil was so wonder- 
 full}' free and friable that it was easily worked with the light 
 Wanika hoes ; the earth cut like cheese, and I was more and 
 more struck with the total absence of stones. When cut, the 
 drains pleased me very much, and they were probably the 
 first ever made in East Africa. The Wanika were working 
 better every da}- now, but there was great difficulty in getting 
 them to come back regularl}- in the afternoons. 
 
 The man I had visited in the lower village, and who had 
 been bad with chest disease, died ; and most of the people 
 attended his funeral. I now instructed Ali bin Jumah to 
 make arrangements with a native doctor to attend the people 
 for diseases which I could not treat, whilst I continued to do 
 as much as I could with the medicines at my disposal. 
 
 I took every opportunity of obtaining information concern- 
 ing the products and cultivation of the country, and the 
 results of my inquiries may here be briefly stated. 
 
 Agricultural Seasons. — The two agricultural seasons on 
 the coast-lands correspond with the advent of the S.W. and 
 N.E. monsoons, being known locally as — 
 
 The Greater Rains, or " Masika Mku." 
 
 The Lesser Rains, or " Masika Jlldogo." 
 
 The Greater Rains, inaugurating the most important 
 cultivating season, commence in March, with the heaviest fall 
 in April and May, and continue with diminishing force to 
 September. 
 
 The Lesser Rains commence in October and practically 
 end in November, as, though the wind continues to blow 
 steadily from the N.N.E., the rain-fall in' December, Januar)^ 
 and February is slight and uncertain, and it is during these 
 three months that the greatest heat prevails, in Januar}' and 
 February especially. 
 
 The sowing of the princij^al food grains, such as millet, maize.
 
 58 
 
 TR.WELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 and rice, though I have known it as early as March 7, 
 usually be,L,n'ns about the middle of that month, and is 
 finished by the first week in April, though the re-sowing for 
 failures and seed damaged by insects, rats, etc., continues till 
 the {i\u\ of the month. 
 
 Harxest takes place in July and August, and when once the 
 grain is off the field, the land is immediately prepared for 
 re-sowing in anticipation of the coming of the " lesser rains," 
 
 COCO-XUT TREE. 
 
 which is the chief season for sim-sim, bean and pulse 
 cultivation. 
 
 Now as to the principal products — 
 
 TJie coco-nut ^r^^ begins to yield the fifth year from planting, 
 and is in full bearing from the seventh to the tenth year. 
 The average planting distance is generally from 30 to 
 40 feet, and I was particularly struck with the great regularity 
 of the trees in the \arious plantations that I had seen, 
 which were usually surrounded with a strong thorn fence.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 59 
 
 While the trees are young, cassava or other ground 
 produce is grown between them, and a favourite practice on 
 many shambas is to plant bananas in conjunction with the coco- 
 nuts. The trees are never manured, but owing to the fertile 
 soil bear largely, averaging from seventy to two hundred nuts a 
 year, and in specially favourable situations up to three hundred. 
 
 Notwithstanding the large number of plantations, no nuts 
 appeared to be exported. The only attempt at cultivation 
 that I saw was the banking up the stems of the trees with 
 weeds and rubbish and hoeing away the grass, etc., for a 
 distance of 4 to 5 feet round them. I was struck with 
 the small number of dead trees, considering how extensively 
 coco-nuts are cultivated in the district. A beetle, the same 
 probably as the Indian coco-nut black-beetle, does damage, 
 however, by eating the young leaves, trees so attacked 
 presenting a ragged appearance. 
 
 Neither the copra nor fibre are exported, the husks being 
 thrown aside in heaps as useless — coir rope being imported 
 from Lamu. The steps cut in the trees for climbers extracting 
 the toddy are also peculiar to this country — toddy being used 
 simply for drinking or making vinegar. Comparatively 
 little oil is manufactured, and is chiefly used for burning, but 
 since the importation of kerosene oil by the Indian merchants 
 the latter, owing to its cheapness (a tin costing from two and 
 a half to three rupees), has in a great measure taken the place 
 of the coco-nut oil. 
 
 The price of coco-nuts per thousand averaged from twelve 
 to fourteen dollars. 
 
 Bananas form a favourite fruit, and are largely grown both in 
 open fields and in fenced shambas, the clumps being planted 
 in rows generally 10 feet apart. The price varies accord- 
 ing to the quality of the fruit, a bunch averaging from three 
 to four annas. Bananas being so plentiful, it struck me that 
 it would pay well to export them to Mombasa, where they 
 are scarce and dear, a single fruit selling there for three pice, 
 and a bunch for one rupee. 
 
 Two varieties of inillct are cultivated {Sorghum viilgare 
 and Pennisetum typhoideiini), forming with maize and cassava 
 (^Manihot iitUissima) the principal food of the people.
 
 6o TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Of millet or mctamah, a good deal is exported to Muscat, 
 a rei^ular trade with dhows existing between that place and 
 Mclindi, the vessels arriving when the harvest is over to ship 
 the grain. It is largely cultivated, and I often noticed fields of 
 it full)' 12 feet high. The average price per gisla ( = 360 lbs.) 
 was three dollars, but when scarce it rose to four dollars. The 
 grain is crushed for consumption in small stone mills, consisting 
 of two stones overlapping one another, the upper one being 
 turned by a small iron handle let into the stone. 
 
 Rict' is much valued, but the uncertainty of the rain-fall 
 makes it a hazardous crop to grow, and it was only occasion- 
 ally that I saw a really good crop ; generally it looked 
 )'ellow, ragged and dried up, but when the rains had been 
 favourable, I have seen fields of it 6 feet high and loaded 
 with grain ; this however is exceptional, the usual height being 
 3 to 4 feet. No irrigation is carried on, but it is usually 
 grown at the bottom of small sw^ampy hollows, only one 
 crop being grown in the year. No use whatever is made of 
 the straw — which is left on the ground. Rice is generally 
 sold in small mat baskets, holding, I believe, one frasila, and 
 called " guniah," the price being one and a half dollars. The 
 price of Indian corn, or maize, of which, the local name is 
 " mahindi," was from two to two and a half dollars a gisla. 
 
 The harvesting operations were simple in the extreme, and 
 take place generally in July, August, and September. When 
 the grain is ripe, slaves are sent in who cut off the ripe ears 
 with a knife ; these are collected in baskets and then emptied 
 on palm mats (imported from Lamu) to dry in the sun ; they 
 are then beaten with ordinary sticks, and after drying in the 
 sun for one or two days the grain is stored in sheds. The 
 long stalks of the sorghum or metamah are used for making 
 walls of houses and sheds as well as for fences. 
 
 Sim-siin, or sesame {Sesajnum ijidiciun), yielding the 
 gingelly oil of commerce, is the most important product on 
 the coast, and two varieties are grown, the white and the 
 black. It is extensively cultivated and exported both to 
 Aden and Muscat. It takes five months from the time of 
 sowing till the crop is ready for harvesting, and two crops 
 are generall}- grown in the }'ear. When the pods are fulh'
 
 BETEL-NUT PALMS.
 
 Ill TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 63 
 
 formed, but still green, the sim-sim, then about 4 to 4?, 
 feet high, is uprooted, and after lying on the ground for 
 one da}', is tied up in stooks, three or four supporting each 
 other, and thus left to dr)" for fifteen days ; this causes the 
 pods to open, and the seed, which is very minute, is shaken 
 out on to mats. The seed is then crushed locally in mills 
 very similar to the Indian and Ceylon chikku oil-mills, only 
 here they are driven b}- camels instead of bullocks. The oil 
 is largely used by the people for cooking and anointing their 
 bodies, the price of a cupful being one pice. The prices 
 average from three to five and six dollars a gisla. 
 
 The following particulars may be of interest — 
 
 In millet or metamah cultivation only two shoots are left 
 in each hole, the remainder being either transplanted or 
 destroyed. Only two weedings of metamah are considered 
 necessary from the sowing to harvest. 
 
 Rice seed takes ten days to germinate. Sesame seed will 
 germinate in four da}-s from sowing. 
 
 Only the bitter variet)' of cassava appeared to be cultivated. 
 It forms an important article of local consumption, it and 
 maize being eaten roasted and ground. 
 
 A basket of cassava of from 50 to 60 lbs. sells for four 
 to five annas. 
 
 Beans and pulse at from two to three dollars a gisla. 
 
 Sugar-cane is here a permanent product ; land once planted 
 remains so, and it is cut every month all the year round, and 
 the stumps are allowed to shoot up again. A sugar-cane 
 stick 4 to 5 feet long sells for about a pice. The brown 
 and white sugar sold locally is all imported, none being made 
 here, and the only attempt at manufacture that I heard of, 
 was that of Suliman bin Abdulla already mentioned. 
 
 Pineapples are cultivated to a small extent for their fruit 
 alone ; they grow well. 
 
 Tobacco is not extensively grown along the immediate 
 coast-land, and so far I had only noticed small patches here 
 and there, generally near slave houses. All the plants that 
 I saw, though gro\\ing without any particular care or attention, 
 were luxuriant enough. The leaf, very dark-coloured, is 
 hung up in the roofs of houses to cure. The tobacco is strong
 
 64 TRAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 and pungent, and is chiefly used for chewing and snuffing. 
 The VVanika also cultivate it. The price appeared to be 
 seven rupees for 35 lbs., or one rupee for 5 lbs. 
 
 The only Betel-nut palms that I had seen were those 
 growing in Suliman's shambas, and considering the extreme 
 suitability of soil and climate, I was surprised not to see more 
 of them growing. The nuts sold at about twelve for one 
 anna. 
 
 The Silk-cotton tree {Eriodendro)i anfractnosiini — Swahilf 
 name " msufi ") is indigenous to the country and grows to a 
 large size ; a limited demand exists for the cotton-pods, which 
 are used for stuffing pillows. A silk-cotton tree is said to 
 yield on an average about a frasila of cotton a year, the 
 price depending upon the demand at the time, but sometimes 
 standing at one rupee for 10 lbs. 
 
 The country evidently suits the Mango tree remarkably 
 well, for nowhere have I seen it growing with greater 
 luxuriance. It abounds everywhere, both in fenced shambas 
 and scattered about the open country, and there are several 
 varieties specially noted for the quality of their fruit, some 
 of it very large. The average rate for small fruit was six to 
 eight for one pice, larger ones two for one pice. 
 
 Of fruit trees, the various species of Cz'/r/^i' grow particularly 
 well and bear largely. All the orange trees I saw were 
 handsome and well grown, and the fruit commands a ready 
 sale, two for a pice. 
 
 The Jack tree {Artocarpns integrifolia), though growing 
 well, is not plentiful ; the seed is an article of consumption, 
 and is sold locally. 
 
 The Papaw {Carica papaya) abounds, and its fruit both 
 raw and cooked is much consumed ; the green fruit boiled 
 makes an excellent vegetable. 
 
 I found the hardy and quick-growing Castor-oil plant 
 {Ricinus eonininnis) growing wild everj-where, but little use is 
 made of its oil except by the Wanika. 
 
 The chief vegetables were pumpkins, beans, and pulse 
 (" kunde "), Congo pea {Cajanns indicns'), and sweet potatoes 
 {Batatas edulis). 
 
 1 should also mention that amongst the grains, Ragyg
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 65 
 
 {Eleusiue coracana), locally ktujwn as " wimbe," is also i^rown, 
 but to a more limited extent. 
 
 On the morning of August 18 my muster of Wanika 
 numbered fifty. After setting them to work I started off for 
 Shamba Kozi, where the rest of the hands were then emplo}'ed. 
 
 The want of a good road between Mombrui and the 
 shambas being much felt, I resolved to speak to the Li\\ali 
 and see if we could not arrange to make one. On arriving 
 I found Ali and the people, excepting a few gathering 
 bananas, all engaged in harvesting the rice, the amount of 
 grain obtained being thirty-six baskets. I took this oppor- 
 
 PRIN'CIPAL FKL'IT AND FOOD STUFFS OF THE COAST-LAM) 
 
 tunit)' to go carefully over the shamba, and found it chiefly 
 planted up with bananas, all the clumps being placed in 
 rows as I have described. The rice-field was swampy, and 
 adjacent to it were some patches of sugar-cane. Coco-nuts 
 were planted every 30 or 40 feet, but these were nearl)- all 
 young, only about fifty being bearing trees. 
 
 It was, taking it altogether, a valuable shamba, and the 
 bananas should have yielded a large supply of fruit, but like 
 Shamba Baraka it was sadly neglected and overgrown ever}-- 
 where with thick grass and bush. I instructed Ali to' keep 
 half the people next da}- to finish weeding and clearing it 
 thoroughly. One or two light ploughs would have been 
 
 I'
 
 66 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 f)f the greatest use, and would have saved much time and 
 labour. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to have another look at Shamba 
 Feruzi, or as it was more commonly called Awalthi, this 
 time i^oing right round and all through it. This plantation 
 is noted for its coco-nuts, many of the trees yielding up to 
 300 nuts per annum, and shortly before my arrival 7000 nuts 
 had been gathered here ! I counted the nuts on some of 
 the trees, and found on an average from sixty to seventw 
 All the trees were from seven to ten years old, and co\'ered 
 the whole extent of the plantation. 
 
 When I returned to Macjarini in the evenini/ I was much 
 
 
 '~-i- ^. ;SUPi 
 
 '^^M 
 
 ^iig^^p^^ 
 
 ^P 
 
 ^^^wr 
 
 j^Ml^ 
 
 flVP^^WIil<Hn( 
 
 ^-^^^mj 
 
 iPi.iPI^-' "^^ifflHCn 
 
 
 -■^ "■ -?1 
 
 vv.wiKA i.abouri:r.s. 
 
 satisfied with the work done by the Wanika, which showed 
 a noticeable improvement every day. Next morning forty- 
 nine of them came to work. It was wonderful how quickly 
 they picked up information, and I hoped that with training 
 they would become a useful labour force. They were 
 obedient and good-natured, and I believe honest, and it was 
 surprising the work they were able to do with their small 
 hoes. At first I thought it better to let them work with the 
 tool they were accustomed to ; later on I meant to train them 
 to use English implements, and they were so docile and 
 adaptable that I anticipated no difficulty. 
 
 As I was now getting about fifty daily from the two
 
 in TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 67 
 
 villages in this, the busiest season for cultivation, I was 
 encouraged to expect that by steadily continuing the experi- 
 ment the people would gradually grow accustomed to regular 
 work. Cotton cultivation I thought the most suitable for 
 such beginners ; from the clearing of the bush to the lining, 
 holding, planting, weeding, picking, cleaning, and drying, it 
 was all comparatively simple work, and I also adopted this 
 plan from the consideration that, apart from gradually 
 accustoming the Wanika to regular work, it was also a 
 means of introducing a product for which in my opinion the 
 country and soil were so well adapted. I found on again 
 visiting Baraka shamba that Ali bin Jumah had been working 
 his people very well, a good half of the shamba was now 
 weeded, and no less than 260 bunches of bananas had been 
 gathered ; this was most satisfactory. I wrote to our agent 
 at Mombrui to send up camels to carry them down to the 
 coast, the camel hire being only eight annas for each trip. 
 
 The Wanika now came in greater numbers than I 
 required, a fact which much gratified me, and I felt quite 
 proud of my new labour force. I set some of them to 
 clean up round the well, and to build a shed over it for 
 protection against evaporation by the sun — an example I 
 hoped to see adopted by the Swahilis. The hole-cutting 
 became more satisfactory every day, and was soon nearly 
 finished. 
 
 Two clays afterwards Ali bin Jumah came to inform me 
 that altogether 560 bunches of bananas had been gathered 
 from Shamba Kozi, and that nine camels had arrived to 
 convey them to the coast for sale. I was also pleased to 
 receive two loads of iron for making hoes, and there were still 
 two more loads at Mombrui. 
 
 On Saturday, August 22, squalls of wind and rain blew 
 all day from the south-west. Only six Wanika came to 
 work in the morning and three in the afternoon — they do not 
 like rain ! The man I had put in irons for insolence, having 
 served his time, came back from the coast begging for 
 forgiveness ; I hoped that the lesson had been effective, so I 
 took him back, and he proved ever after one of my best men. 
 The next day being fine, sixty-four Wanika came to work,
 
 68 TR.WELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 and were all put to cotton-planting. I again went to inspect 
 Baraka shamba, and on my return I found that the head-man 
 in charge of the Wanika had managed the work so badly, 
 that I threatened to send him back to his duty as a watchman 
 if he was not more careful, and I put a Wanika to look after 
 the "lining" boys. He did his work so well that I picked 
 out two others, and told them I would put them in charge of 
 certain works and raise their wages if they did well. I found 
 this arrangement so satisfactory that I continued it. 
 
 On the morning of the 25th I started off to visit all the 
 lower shambas. I first inspected Shamba M'Tusi, also called 
 Feressi ; it was bounded by Shamba Abedi on one side and 
 by a belt of fine mango trees on the other ; it was scattered, 
 and all open cultivation : rice, sim-sim, metamah, bananas, 
 mangoes, and coco-nuts. The soil was remarkably rich, and 
 well adajDted for the cultivation of tobacco. Shamba Saraboko 
 was open on three sides, and on the fourth were rows of fine 
 mangoes, planted very thickly and closely together, the rest 
 being taken up with luxuriant clumps of bananas, while 
 scattered among them were many young coco-nuts, two sugar- 
 cane patches, some sweet lime trees, and two clumps of 
 bamboos. The shamba was overgrown like the others. 
 Under the shade of the mangoes was a capital place for the 
 cultixation of pepper, whilst the open spaces were admirably 
 adapted for the experimental cultivation of various products. 
 
 Shamba Nghanima, comparative!}' small, was contiguous to 
 Shamba Saraboko, from which it was divided by several rows 
 of fine mango trees. This shamba had no ground produce, 
 and was also much overgrown. 
 
 Shamba M'Pandiani, so frequently mentioned, was the 
 largest and most important of all, containing, next to Shamba 
 Awalthi, the most valuable coco-nut plantation on the estate, 
 the trees all mature, planted 20 b}' 30 feet apart, all vacancies 
 being carefully filled up with young plants. Here also were 
 about thirty-nine or forty very fine betel-nut palms. Except 
 for a fine patch of sugar-cane there was no ground cultiva- 
 tion. A good deal of " ilook " grass was growing in one 
 part. 
 
 The water suppl}^ here was excellent and permanent ; I
 
 TRA\ELS IX EAST AFRICA 69 
 
 therefore decided that this was the most suitable place to 
 establish my nurseries for my. new products. 
 
 Separated by a thorn fence was Shamba M'Selm, a small 
 portion of which was planted with young coco-nuts, and much- 
 neglected bananas growing underneath. There were some 
 small patches of sugar-cane, but the chief cultivation consisted 
 of many rows of fine mango trees, with open sheltered spaces 
 between, well adapted for the cultivation of tobacco. Shamba 
 Kitanga Kekubwa was another fine plantation, consisting 
 chiefly of mango trees planted closely together, and containing 
 also many coco-nut, orange, Jack, sweet lime, and custard- 
 apple trees, and some pineapples. Shamba Abedi was 
 another coco-nut plantation of mature and young trees, a few 
 mango trees, a large number of bananas, and a good deal of 
 cassava. This shamba was terribly overgrown with bush and 
 grasses, and required thoroughly cleaning and doing up. 
 
 I had now got the plantations in thorough working order, 
 over a thousand bunches of bananas had been sent down on 
 camels to IMombrui, steady progress was being made in the 
 weeding and cleaning up, whilst the metamah harvest was to 
 be begun immediately, and to be followed by a regular and 
 • s)'stematic gathering of the coco-nuts from the various shambas. 
 The Wanika were going on admirably under the supervision 
 of their own people, controlled by one of the Xakoas. The 
 cotton-seed had made a start and was germinating well, so I 
 thought I might leave Ali bin Jumah in charge whilst I pro- 
 ceeded to my other duties of visiting various portions of the 
 district. 
 
 During the brief visit that I made to Alelindi, to talk this 
 matter over with Bell-Smith and the Liwali, it was suggested 
 that I should make a preliminary tour up the Sabaki river to 
 the runaway slave settlements at Makongeni, and the upper 
 reaches of the river, returning to the coast at Takaungu, and 
 thence proceeding to Melindi, visiting first, however, the 
 Orchella Weed districts at Marereni by way of Xasur bin 
 Suliman's plantations and the town of Gongoni. I looked 
 forward with interest to this expedition, as affording me a 
 much-wished-for opportunity of seeing more of the country 
 and judging of its capabilities ; but meanwhile several matters
 
 ^o TR.WKLS IX KAS'I" AFRICA chap. 
 
 required my attention, and it was not until September 9 that 
 I was able to leave Magarini. 
 
 I had first to visit and thoroughl)' inspect Nasur bin 
 Suliman's shambas, situated about an hour's walk from 
 Magarini, and be\ond the village of Boma Upandi. On 
 arriving I ordered the Nakoa to have all the people mus- 
 tered next da)- for formal registration ; and in the morning 
 I counted them. There were only twenty-two men ; ten of 
 them had gone off to Lamu to work as porters. I afterwards 
 went round the property with Nakoa Tofike. It consisted of 
 open land extending in a complete circle round the boma, 
 this land being ver)- rich, and having quite a name in the 
 neighbourhood for the quality of the sim-sim grown upon it. 
 Most of the soil was of a friable chocolate loam. 
 
 The greater part of the land had been let by the Liwalis to 
 various neighbouring cultivators who had crops of sim-sim 
 growing upon it. The)' paid from one to three rupees 
 according to the size of the patch taken, and were liable 
 for this rent whether their crops proved remunerative 
 or not. 
 
 As I went round I passed a field of sim-sim which was 
 being harvested, and I examined the process with curiosit)^ 
 Nasur's was the onl)- land out of cultivation, all the neighbour- 
 hood, right up to the boundaries, being extensivel)- cultivated, 
 chiefly with sim-sim, for which the soil seemed particularly 
 adapted. Hardl)- an)- enclosed shambas were to be seen 
 round here, the cultivation being all open, and I was struck 
 with the entire absence of coco-nut trees. 
 
 Growing round two sides of the central boma was a fine 
 plantation of mangoes, lime trees (bearing very heavil)'), 
 guavas, custard-apples, some good varieties of oranges, and 
 pomegranates. 
 
 The estate consisting as it did of open fields, it seemed to 
 me, that in the absence of modern agricultural implements 
 it would be impossible to work it profitabl)- with the small 
 labour available, and that the best plan would be to work it 
 and Magarini conjoint!)', sending labour over whenever culti- 
 \-ation required it, Shamba M'Pandiani being onl)- three 
 miles off. The crop of lime-fruit was so large, man)- rotting
 
 Ill TRAX'ELS IN EAST AP'RICA 71 
 
 on the ground, that I put some people on at once to gather 
 and despatch it to Mombrui and MeHndi. 
 
 I then returned to Magarini, and for the next two da}\s we 
 had a good deal of rain, which was of much benefit to the 
 young cotton plants, as the}' were now shooting up ever}-- 
 where. The sowing of cotton-seed was finished b}' September 
 2, and I then put on the Wanika to clear up the old cotton- 
 land till the 5th, when all being completed I paid them off 
 for the present. I sent for their head-men and informed them 
 that, though the approaching dry season now compelled me 
 to discontinue work, I hoped to begin again in a few months, 
 when I should require a larger labour supph". I made them 
 each a money present in return for sending their people to 
 me. I also told them that I proposed starting on a tour on 
 the following Monda}', this being Saturday, and that I wanted 
 some Wanika to come as porters, that I would pay two annas 
 each daily with a like amount as "posho" (batta for purchasing 
 food). M'Doro was to come next da}', when I would tell him 
 the exact number I required. 
 
 I had a very busy morning, going into the accounts of the 
 property with Ali bin Salim, the Li.wali of Mombrui, who, 
 with the estate agent, Omar bin Abid, had come up for the 
 purpose of arranging for the gradual paying off of the claims 
 of the poorer creditors. 
 
 Ali bin Jumah then came to receive his final instructions 
 as to the work to be done during my absence. Ali expected 
 the metamah harvest would be finished in about another 
 fortnight — he was then to store the grain (carefulh' measuring 
 it to guard against theft) and keep it carefully until my 
 return ; then the coco-nuts were to be gathered and despatched 
 to Mombrui, either by the shamba donkeys or by camels, 
 according to quantit}-. When no other work was in hand 
 they were to go on cleaning up the shambas. A few people 
 were to be told off for gathering the cotton when necessar}-, 
 and when the }'oung plants were about 4 inches high, they 
 were to be thinned out, leaving onl}- three to each hole. Ali 
 was also to take charge of Nasur bin Suliman's shamba, and 
 to send help for cutting the metamah and sim-sim when- 
 ever ripe. Next }-ear we proposed growing onl\- the most
 
 TRAVELS IN PIAST AFRICA CH. iir 
 
 remunerative ground and grain crops, so as to obtain returns 
 as quickly as possible. Ali seemed thoroughly to understand 
 my orders, and I told him that the state of the shambas on 
 my return would prove what he could do. The Liwali of 
 Mombrui also promised to keep an eye on everything during 
 my absence. 
 
 I was much pleased on telling M'Doro on Sunday evening 
 that I should require ten of his men the following morning to 
 carry my loads, that one of the late Wanika overseers who 
 had come with him immediately volunteered, and offered to 
 bring some of his friends with him. 
 
 I was very busy all day Monday packing my things, and 
 storing away what I was leaving behind. 
 
 I left Ali bin Jumah well supplied with all necessary 
 medicines, and finally started on my expedition in the after- 
 noon, my first destination being no further than Xasur bin 
 Suliman's shambas, where I had some small business to 
 transact. 
 
 My party numbered fifteen, composed as follows — 
 
 Ramazan, my interpreter, who was also head-man in charge 
 of everything. 
 
 My cook with two boys. 
 
 Ten Wanika porters, including two of my late overseers, 
 w'ith finally one Arab askari (soldier), by name Selim, whom 
 the Liwali had sent me, a most reliable and excellent fellow 
 and a capital hand at cleaning guns. 
 
 I had my tent pitched inside the boma of Nasur's shamba, 
 and my first night in camp passed without incident, though it 
 rained heavily.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 GONGONI, RAS N'GOMANI, AND THE ORCHELLA 
 WEED DISTRICT OF ^SIARERENI. 
 
 A Polite Head-man — Cultivation — Rapid Growth of Silk-cotton Tree — 
 Guniah System of Agriculture — A Primitive Telephone — Salt Deposits 
 — A Sandy Waste — Scarcity of Firewood — Ras N'Gomani Fisher-folk 
 - — Shark's Flesh as Food — Abundance of Game — Mangrove Timber 
 — Waiting for Canoes — Bad Marksmen — Shallow Back-waters — 
 Casuarina Trees — Flat Grass Plains — Marereni — Orchella Weed — 
 (ireat Heat — Elephant Tracks — Rich Soil — Back to Mombrui. 
 
 I STARTED about 7 a.m. on September lo for Gongoni, 
 my first stage, Ramazan and the Wanika striking my tent, 
 rolling up my bedding and packing the loads, whilst I was 
 having my morning tea. The people were a bit disorganized 
 at first, scrambling for the lightest load, but they soon settled 
 down, and I always found them very willing. 
 
 About an hour after leaving the shamba I arrived at Gongoni, 
 having an intelligent guide sent by the Liwali. I camped in 
 the town under the shade of some very fine silk-cotton trees! 
 The head-man, who was absent on my arrival, shortly came in, 
 and was most polite, bringing me milk, eggs, and a fowl. The 
 people received me most civilly, and I held quite a levee. 
 I here found one of the Wanika who had been my first 
 guide to Melindi along the Wanika road, and he testified 
 his feelings towards me by bringing me a present of eggs. 
 The head-man, Mohamed by name, was a GuniaJi, as also 
 were most of the people here.^ I had several conversations 
 with him, and he brought his little son to .show him to me ; 
 
 1 The (kmiahs, also called Bajoni or Watiku, inhabit Patta Island 
 and the mainland north of Lamu. 
 
 11
 
 74 'IR.W'ELS IX KAST AFRICA 
 
 I gave him a small present. Let me now describe the 
 countr\- 1 passed through en route. 
 
 After leaving Nasur's shamba I passed through a flat plain, 
 covered with a great number of baobab trees, growing singly 
 or in pairs. The soil was rich, generally a light, sandy, 
 chocolate-coloured loam. I saw neither coco-nut nor mango 
 trees, but was informed that the Guniahs did not care for 
 other cultivation than millet and sesame, not even cassava. 
 
 The land traversed was cultivated chiefly with metamah, 
 which had now been all harvested. I passed only one enclosed 
 shamba (which had no trees), and eventuall}' emerged upon a 
 richl)--cultivated area, all open, consisting of metamah (some 
 <:>f it harvested), a good deal of sim-sim, and a few patches of 
 beans close to Gongoni. 
 
 Gongoni is a fairly large native town, not protected in any 
 wa>-, but quite open. I had expected to find it on the 
 sea-shore, but it is some distance from it. The houses were 
 fairl}' large and looked comfortable, and the place was tolerabl}' 
 clean. The Guniahs keep herds of goats for milking, and 
 many dogs, very similar to the Indian pariah dog. Gongoni 
 appeared to be entirely dependent upon Mombrui, as it had 
 no bazaars, and not even pice ^^•ere procurable. 
 
 The head-man Mohamed and man)' of the inhabitants 
 complained of the great scarcity of drinking-water. I visited 
 their two wells, one outside the town, with very little and 
 discoloured water, and the other much further off with a 
 larger suppl}-, slightl}' brackish but drinkable. They said the 
 two wells dried up in the hot weather, so I suggested (as I 
 had already done at Magarini) that they should build a shed 
 over the well, first deepening it, to protect it from the sun ; 
 this they promised to do. In the dry weather the}' had to 
 send as far as Xasur bin Suliman's shamba for water (an 
 hour's journey, or say three to three and a half miles). One 
 or two Europeans, they said, had told them the)' would find 
 water in the centre of the town, where the water la)' in the 
 wet weather. I had a look at the place, and told them the 
 experiment was well worth trying, though I could not 
 guarantee its success. 
 
 I was struck b)- the ap])earance and size of the silk-cotton
 
 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 'J^ 
 
 trees near my tent ; they were fully 30 feet high, and the 
 circumference of the largest a foot from the ground was 39 
 inches — the head-man told me they were only three years old ! 
 
 Gongoni was surrounded on three sides by an extensive 
 plain, bounded on one side by Magarini Hill and on the other 
 by the low Mombrui Hills. 
 
 The Guniahs are great cultivators, and subsist chiefl}' on 
 metamah grain, but a large acreage was also under sim-sim, 
 some fully 5 feet high and most luxuriant in appearance. Their 
 usual custom with new land was to first grow two consecutive 
 crops of sim-sim, then a crop of beans (kunde), which they 
 said had an invigorating effect on the soil ; afterwards sim-sim 
 was again sown and continued as before. Of metamah only 
 one crop was grown in the year, and just before it was 
 harvested either sim-sim or beans were put down, and this 
 process was continued till the soil became exhausted, when a 
 new patch of land was taken up ; needless to say no manuring 
 was done. 
 
 Some of the metamah fields I passed through were being 
 harvested, men hacking down the stalks with long knives, 
 women following them and cutting off the ears of corn and 
 collecting them in baskets. I thought the wide plain would 
 make capital ploughing land, and wished the people could see 
 a plough at work — they would soon realize its advantages. 
 Their light hoes merely scratch the ground and do not touch 
 the rich subsoil. Besides the cultivation already described 
 there were, I was told, some large shambas further away, the 
 property of the Liwali and some rich Swahilis of Melindi ; 
 all open land under sim-sim and metamah. 
 
 The Guniahs appeared an industrious race, and ready 
 enough to learn and adopt new ways. 
 
 In the evening I was rather amused to see some of the 
 children playing with a very primitive telephone made out of 
 two small empty tins, with a piece of skin pasted over one 
 end, and the two connected with a long string. I heard the 
 bo}' at the other end distinctly, and was rather surprised to 
 find such a scientific toy in Gongoni of all places ! 
 
 The weather was exceedingly hot (Friday, September ii), 
 and after breakfast a good man}- people came to me and
 
 78 TRAVELS IX KAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 asked for cigarettes, cough medicines, etc., which I gave. 
 Mohamcd was reaping his mctamah, and I tried my hand 
 at cutting a few stalks. In the afternoon I made a rather 
 important expedition ; I had noticed to the south-west of 
 Gongoni some white, sandy-looking patches with no cultivation, 
 and on inquiry I was told they were salt deposits, and that 
 the people obtained from them their supply of salt, so I went 
 to visit the place, and passed through some of the strangest 
 country I had yet seen. Nearly the whole way led through 
 a sandy waste devoid of vegetation except a few islets of 
 bush ; the whole of this was flooded at intervals, waist-deep, 
 with brackish water, probably sea-water. We then crossed 
 a mangrove swamp, and then came upon a shallow back- 
 water (then dry) running inland from the sea, and flooded 
 only once a month at the high neap-tides. I followed this 
 to the end over white sand, on which were tracks of hyaenas, 
 antelopes, and monkeys. Across this back-water in one or 
 two places there were small barriers, about a foot high, for 
 catching fish, made of stakes and grass. At the very end, 
 which narrowed considerably, the sand was covered with 
 patches of glistening salt left by the last tide. I was informed 
 that after one of these high tides the amount of salt deposited 
 was large enough to supply the whole of the neighbouring 
 districts, even the Magarini people coming here for theirs. 
 This salt deposit is about half-an-hour's distance from Gongoni. 
 If proper salt-pans were made, as in India, the amount 
 obtained would be considerable. 
 
 I returned to Gongoni by another route, passing over a low 
 flat plain, which I understood was partly under water in the 
 wet season. The soil was black and stiff, thick low bush 
 extending around. I noticed growing here a good many fan 
 palms and also euphorbias; the Guniahs use the milk of these 
 last for killing fish by throwing it into the water. The dried 
 branches also make good torches. 
 
 I left Gongoni (or R<7s N' Go^/ian i(a.hout two hours' distance) 
 at 8 a.m. on September 12. The way was at first over the 
 same country as that going to the salt deposits, then through 
 a .succession of sandy back-waters and mangrove swamps 
 nearly the whole distance, and I again noticed many hyasna.
 
 IV TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 8i 
 
 monkey, and zebra tracks. I passed .several parties of men 
 with camels from Mombrui, coming to the mangrove swamps 
 for firewood. On inquiring I ascertained that the coast-lands 
 being now almost entirely denuded of bush, parties of men 
 were sent either up the Sabaki river, or, as in the case of 
 Mombrui, to the mangrove swamps, to obtain firewood, which 
 was retailed in small bundles at one pice each. 
 
 Just before reaching Ras X'Gomani I entered a flat bushy 
 country, with very white sandy soil. Ras X'Gomani consists 
 of a small cluster of about ten huts, built on a creek winding 
 far up into the land, with many inlets, and surrounded by 
 mangrove swamps. There was no cultivation whatever, and 
 the people, all Guniahs, lived by fishing. They possessed a 
 few canoes, and one dhow, which had just come in bringing a 
 large shark, the flesh of which was cut into strips and hung 
 out all over the place to dry in the sun ; they are fond of it 
 as an article of food. I here made inquiries about Marereni, 
 of which I had heard a good deal, and among other things 
 was told that game abounded there — especially in wet weather 
 — including water-buck, hartebeest, antelopes, any number of 
 lions, rhinoceros, buffaloes, etc. The head-man said I could 
 go to Marereni either across the bay by water, for it was 
 impossible to pass through the mangrove swamps, or else by 
 way of Gongoni, which would take five hours. 
 
 The askari Selim reported that there were antelopes in the 
 bush around here ; so in the afternoon I went off with him, 
 taking my double express. I saw three or four antelopes, but 
 did not get near enough for a shot ; the}' were \-ery wild. I 
 had a long tramp of over two hours, and this gave me an 
 opportunity of examining the bush thoroughly. It was much 
 the same as elsewhere, but the soil was very light and sandy. 
 I examined it in three different places, and found it to consist 
 of very light sand mixed with black loamy particles. The lay 
 of the land was gently undulating, with some low hills. 
 Mangrove timber is exported from here both to Mombasa 
 and Zanzibar, the bay being accessible to dhows at full tide. 
 This mangrove wood {boritics) is in much demand for building 
 purposes, as it is very hard and durable, and white ants do not 
 touch it. There is an enormous supply available. 
 
 t;
 
 82 TRAX'ELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The Guniahs objected to the Wanika sleeping in their 
 houses, so the)' came and slept around my tent. What with 
 the fires they built to keep off the mosquitoes and the row they 
 made talking during the night, I did not pass a very pleasant 
 evening or quiet night. Next morning I found the bay full 
 of water, and waited a long time for the head-man, who had 
 gone to fetch his canoes, for I had decided to go to Marereni 
 across the bay, and return by Gongoni to Mombrui. At last, 
 at 8.30 a.m., I took a canoe that was l>-ing on the beach, and 
 sent off all my gear with Ramazan and three Wanika and a 
 couple of Guniahs to pole it. While waiting for the other 
 canoes, which took a long time in making their appearance, 
 I put up a mark at about fift}' paces and got the Wanika who 
 remained to shoot at it with their bows and arrows. They 
 made very bad shots, and on moving the mark to twenty 
 paces they onl}- hit it once ! Then Salim started some 
 gymnastics, jumping through his clasped hands, in doing 
 which he touched his thumbs with his tongue ; standing on 
 his head ; jumping and leaping ; all of which the Wanika 
 imitated fairly well. I finally started two Wanika " cock- 
 fighting," to the great amusement of the spectators, who 
 roared with laughter. This impromptu entertainment whiled 
 awa)' two hours; the canoes then turned up, and I set off with 
 the remainder of my people. The water was so shallow that 
 the two Guniah boatmen punted the whole way across ; we 
 then entered a series of winding and shallow back-waters 
 which swarmed with fish — mangroves were growing every- 
 where, and we had to wind about a good deal to keep in 
 the deeper water. After man)- intricate turns we at last 
 emerged upon the sea-shore, a line of coral reefs dividing the 
 back-water from the open sea ; it had taken us over an hour 
 to pass through from Ras N'Gomani. 
 
 On landing, I found Ramazan waiting with all the camp 
 gear; we now proceeded along the sea-shore, which was lined 
 with comparativel)' high bush ; we passed large numbers of 
 casuarina trees, some of ver)- considerable size ; it is a most 
 valuable fuel tree. Two back-waters being reported ahead, 
 we struck inland to avoid them, and passed through bush 
 Cfjuntr)-, with here again a white sand}' soil on which more
 
 IV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 83 
 
 casuarinas were growing. The country may be described 
 generally as very flat, grass plains uninteresting in appear- 
 ance, with a blackish clayey-looking soil, being interspersed 
 with shallow, sandy back-waters. About half-way we struck 
 the direct track from Mombrui to Marereni, and about an 
 hour's march beyond the country was broken with low hills. 
 The soil again became very sandy, and we saw more casuarinas, 
 and further on we had to wade through a fairl}- deep creek. 
 Around Marereni itself, which we reached late in the after- 
 noon, marching was very heavy on account of the deep white 
 sandy soil. Here we found a small stockade, garrisoned by 
 five askaris, erected for the protection of the road and of the 
 people gathering orchella weed. The stockade was built on a 
 sand}- hillock close to the sea-shore ; opposite was a shed for 
 the use of the orchella weed-gatherers. 
 
 After an hour's rest I took the guide and one of the askaris 
 and went off to see the orchella weed. I crossed several low 
 hillocks, and passed man\' casuarinas growing in the hollows. 
 After crossing another shallow back-water I reached the orchella 
 weed, which was growing on the bush trees in ever\' direc- 
 tion, some, evidently deciduous, bearing a larger quantit\- than 
 the others. It is gathered in the dry weather, and, apparenth', 
 can be obtained in an)- quantit}- ; in fact, I was told that it 
 extends for two full da\-s' marches, /. e. fort}- or fift}- miles 
 be}-ond Marereni. I was able to gather about half-a-pound 
 in less than half-an-hour. It looks like long gre}- lichen 
 growing on the branches of the trees. There are tzvo varieties, 
 the long and the short {Roccel/a fiiciforniis and Roccella 
 tinctoriii), yielding a dye of a deep purple colour, the former 
 being the valuable. The weed apparentl}' prefers bush that is 
 growing in deep, white sandy soil, and doubtless, with s}-s- 
 tematic and careful gathering, the quantity available could be 
 largel}' increased. I was informed that for the last }'ear or 
 two there had been but little demand ; previously the Indian 
 merchants of Mombrui and Melindi had bought it largel}- for 
 shipment to Lamu and Zanzibar. Guniahs appeared to be 
 the chief gatherers of it ; the}- come here in the dry weather 
 when cultivation is at an end, and sell it to the Indian 
 merchants at the average price of one and a half dollars a
 
 84 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CH. iv 
 
 frasila. When in much demand the price rises to two and a 
 half and three dollars a frasila. 
 
 I camped that nii^ht in the stockade, where there was an 
 excellent supply of water from a well close by, a strong sea- 
 breeze blowing all night. 
 
 Next day (September 14) we started off at 7 a.m. on what 
 proved to be a very long day's tramp to Mombrui. After 
 leaving the sea-shore, the country was very flat, mostly good 
 short grass plains, with scattered clumps of bush, the soil 
 blackish and dry-looking. I saw several zebra skulls by the 
 path, and game was reported to be plentiful one day's march 
 beyond Marereni — water-buck, antelope, zebra, lions, and I 
 believe buffalo were to be found.^ For three and a half hours 
 I traversed much the same description of country as in coming; 
 the heat here was very great, and I came upon all my porters 
 squatting under some bush, quite knocked up by the heat and 
 thirst. I myself was glad to get half a bottle of cold tea. We 
 started again after a rest and reached Gongoni at noon, after 
 five and a half hours' hot and fatiguing march, the latter part 
 of it being through dry mangrove swamps. 
 
 I saw several elephant tracks, and these animals evidently 
 come down here in the wet season. After resting about two 
 hours at Gongoni we resumed our march to Mombrui, the 
 intervening country being mostly rich land, the greater part 
 under cultivation. The soil was of the usual chocolate- 
 coloured. The cultivation consisted chiefly of sim-sim, 
 mostly in flower, and some very fine fields of beans, the 
 metamah having already been harvested. There was as usual 
 a good deal of abandoned land, whilst towards Mombrui rose 
 low hills covered with bush and grass. The time taken in 
 marching from Gongoni to Mombrui was two hours, and I 
 paid my W^anika double " posho," as they had behaved 
 splendidly on our long and tiring march. 
 
 1 Since the cattle plag-ue the butialo has become much scarcer in East 
 Africa, so many having died from the disease.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 JELORI — THE GIRYAMA TRII5E ^ 
 
 Arab Hospitality — Shamba Accounts — Proceed to Melindi — Stalking a 
 Turtle — Preparations for Sabaki Expedition — Start for Jelori — Fertile 
 Country — Large Coco-nut Plantations — Mr. Weaver's Road — Sekoki 
 Hill— The Sabaki— Lake Jelori— C. M. S. Station, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Hooper — Exploration of the Lake — Giryama \'illages — Sansevieria 
 Fibre — A Hippopotamus Hunt — \'illage in the Forest — Shauri with 
 the Wa-Giryama— Canoeing after Hippo — The Wa-Giryama and their 
 Country. 
 
 On arriving at Mombrui I proceeded to the Liwali's house, 
 having sent Selim, the askari, on in advance to annotmce my 
 arrival. 
 
 The Liwali was as usual most courteous and hospitable, 
 supplying me with coco-nuts, milk, dates, and coffee, and in- 
 sisting on giving me dinner. I had my bed put up in the 
 room where I dined. While bathing before dinner, I noticed 
 a \'er}' ingenious arrangement which the Arabs and Swahilis- 
 use ; the bath really consists of a cistern built of stone and 
 cement, which is fixed a few feet above the ground, and when 
 )-ou want a bath, }'Ou simply pull a pkig out of a projecting 
 spout and let the water pour over }-ou. 
 
 The Liwali came early next morning and insisted on sup- 
 plying my breakfast too — nothing could exceed his constant 
 courtesy to me. Whilst talking he told me that he had dis- 
 covered in the house of Nasurbin Suliman's wife (his propert}% 
 like Suliman bin Abdul la's, had been forfeited, owing to his 
 
 ^ In Swahili the prefix J J 'a denotes the plural and C a country, as 
 thus — 
 
 Wa-Giryama = the Giryama people. 
 U-Giryama = the Giryama country. 
 
 85
 
 86 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 havinLj joined the rebel Sultan of W'ituj, a lot of thini^.s which 
 her husband had left behind, the most important articles being 
 a handsome silver-mounted dagger and a silver cartridge-belt. 
 The others were, an Arab gun, a handsome black dress trimmed 
 with silver, and some crockery and brass cooking pots, which 
 I ordered to be sold by auction. AH bin Jumah now arrived 
 and reported everything going on well on the shambas. I 
 then spent a bus\- morning settling accounts with the 
 Liwali and Omar bin Abid. Afterwards AH bin Salim 
 showed me his new house. Hearing that the Liwali of 
 Melindi had just arrived, we went to call upon him, and had 
 coffee, sweets, etc. ; he had come to arrange about a marriage 
 between a girl of good family at Mombrui, and the Cadi, or 
 Judge of Melindi. 
 
 I left Mombrui in the afternoon, marching along the sea- 
 shore until we came to the Sabaki. No ferry-man being in 
 sight, Ramazan volunteered to take everything and everybody 
 across, and did so very well. I shot a big crocodile on the 
 bar between the river and the sea, and on nearing the other 
 side of the river we saw a turtle on the beach. We crept up 
 most stealthily, and when close to it, made a sudden rush to 
 turn it over, when, alas ! we found it was dead ! 
 
 On reaching Melindi at 3 p.m., I went to the superin- 
 tendent's house, where I found that Mr. Keith Anstruther had 
 succeeded Mr. Bell-Smith, the latter having been transferred 
 to Takaungu. Next day I camped near Weaver, who had just 
 arrived to meet some Indian coolies, who were expected by 
 the Hemy Wright next day. I received a message through 
 the telephone, from the Administrator in Mombasa, that the 
 original idea of sending Mr. Anstruther to accompany me on 
 my Sabaki expedition must be abandoned, as he was wanted 
 at Melindi ; therefore I must go alone. Anstruther advised 
 that as I was going up among the runaway-slave settlements, 
 I should take five extra porters and five askaris. Weaver's 
 twenty-five Indian coolies (from Kurachi) arrived next day ; 
 they were to work on the road which he was making to Jelori. 
 I proposed going up by this place, then proceeding to the run- 
 away slave settlements on the Sabaki at Makongeni, and if 
 possible as far as the second stockade, on Captain Lugard's
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 87 
 
 route; thence striking westward through the Giryama country 
 and reaching the coast again at Kilifi or Takaungu. 
 
 I purchased supplies, sugar, kerosene oil, etc., for my jour- 
 ney. Anstruther most kindly gave five of his own porters 
 together with the head-man employed to carry on trade and 
 barter in the interior. This man knew the country I was to 
 travel through, thoroughly, but he was in great fear of both 
 the Gallas and the Masai, with whom he had had ancient 
 disputes. His name was Jubah bin Fukir. The Liwali of 
 Melindi also took a great deal of trouble and spoke personally 
 to Jubah bin Fukir, telling him exactly what I proposed doing ; 
 and supplied me with a second head-man, named Baba, who 
 also knew the country. Besides these I was taking four 
 askaris, provided with one hundred rounds of ammunition. 
 The two head-men had also guns, so that we were pretty well 
 provided in regard to armament. I agreed to give each head- 
 man four annas, the askaris ten pice, and the porters eight 
 pice each a day, in addition to " posho," which I proposed to 
 issue weekly. Having given them a week's " posho " in 
 advance, I started at 2 p.m. on Sept. t6, with Weaver, who 
 accompanied me part of the way. 
 
 The country traversed on the first day was exceedingly rich. 
 I first passed through large fields of thriving sim-sim, some that 
 had been uprooted and tied in stocks being fully 5 feet high. 
 The soil was excellent, chiefly a friable, light chocolate loam, 
 varying to grey loam in places. Beyond this I came upon 
 what in the wet season is a small lake, called " Zexoah la 
 Ferusi"; its bed could be traced by the light green grass 
 growing very plentifully. Further on I passed a coco-nut 
 plantation, amongst which were some silk-cotton trees ; then 
 through some abandoned land, with some fine mango trees. 
 The soil here was a sandy black, the country extremely flat 
 and most fertile. 
 
 The path now led through a banana shamba, and a large 
 field of Indian corn ; then after passing patches of abandoned 
 land, we emerged upon another large area of cultivation, sim-sim 
 (second crop) and beans — the latter growing in lately harvested 
 fields of metamah. This was succeeded by large coco-nut 
 plantations, almost contiguous one to another, varied with a
 
 88 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 few manc(o shambas. My attention was especially directed 
 t(j the lari;"est coco-nut plantation that I had )'et seen, it was 
 some distance off on m}- ric^ht, and belonged to the Liwali of 
 Mombasa, who owned a great deal of land here. This parti- 
 cular shamba extended as far as the eye could see, and the 
 appearance of the trees was health}- and vigorous in the ex- 
 treme. This was indeed a beautiful and fertile country; the 
 soil was of a chocolate sand)' loam, and as a coco-nut grow- 
 ing country could not be excelled. 
 
 Many native houses and several villages were passed on 
 the road, and most had groups of silk-cotton trees growing 
 around them. Further on — two hours after leaving Melindi 
 — I came upon extensive fields of lately harvested metamah, 
 now planted with beans, and all around were coco-nut and 
 mango shambas. Past this was another phase of cultivation, 
 where bananas, pineapples, and cassava grew luxuriantl}', the 
 last being especial!}- fine. I passed through several large 
 fields of it. 
 
 The countr}- now graduall}- became broken and uneven. I 
 crossed slight hollows which b}- degrees grew more marked, 
 and eventually the land became undulating, with deeper 
 valle}-s, which drained into two small lakes situated a couple 
 of miles away. Latterly the countr}- appeared less cultivated, 
 and I passed through a good deal of bush. The soil here, 
 especially in the valleys was blacker. At 5 p.m. I reached 
 Mere shamba, situated about ten miles from Melindi, to the 
 Liwali of which it belongs. 
 
 Indiarubber and gum-copal trees are to be found at 
 Aroboko, two hours' distance from Mer6, and large quantities 
 of both were obtainable there, but nowhere else on the Sabaki. 
 The rubber vines at Aroboko were said to be very large, as 
 thick as a man's wrist. 
 
 Mere is chiefly a coco-nut shamba, and I particularly- 
 noticed a dwarf variety, from the island of Pemba, called 
 " pemba," which appeared to be particularly valued, as it bears 
 much earlier than the other kind. Be}-ond Mere shamba, 
 }'et still part of the property, I passed through some fields of 
 )-oung sim-sim (second crop), the soil being a black loam ; 
 then through a good deal of abandoned land, with mango
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 89 
 
 trees scattered here and there — the soil still a black loam, 
 now covered with grass. 
 
 There is a low hill called Sekoki, about three miles from 
 Mere shamba, the country lying between consisting of a 
 gently rising ridge with an intervening deep valley covered 
 with bush and long grass and scattered trees, the soil being a 
 friable grey loam. A large number of Hyphsene palms were 
 growing in this valley, together with a variety of Cycad 
 i^Eucephalartos ? ) called " Makumwa " in Swahili. 
 
 I was now travelling along the track cut by Mr. Weaver for 
 the high-road he was constructing from Melindi to Jelori. 
 The road at first struck through a small cultivated area, chiefly 
 of metamah latel}' harvested, and latterly through abandoned 
 land which was now thickly grown over with guinea-grass 
 (an excellent fodder grass and indigenous to the country). 
 The soil was a rich red loam. The surrounding countr)- I 
 Avas informed was at one time largel}^ cultivated, but the 
 inland tribes, especially the Gallas, gave trouble, and the 
 slaves got frightened and would not stop to work it. The 
 bush at the foot of Sekoki Hill was much heavier than else- 
 where, and the soil continued good. 
 
 Mr. Weaver had his camp on this hill 300 feet above sea- 
 level, and distant about thirteen miles from Melindi. It 
 commanded an extensive view of the rich and fertile plains 
 below. On the top I came upon the first forest I had )'et 
 seen ; it entirely covered the hill, and extended for a long 
 distance to the southward, being, according to report, rich in 
 indiarubber and gum-copal trees. The trees were growing 
 closely together, some of them of fair thickness and height. 
 The top of the hill was flat, and the new road, now a grand 
 open way fully 20 feet wide, cut straight through the forest for 
 a comjDleted distance of over two miles, and reflected much 
 credit on Mr. Weaver. This road when finished promised to 
 be of great value in opening up the rich Sabaki district. 
 Good roads and wheeled traffic are the great desiderata in 
 this country. 
 
 I found Wea\'er bus)- putting up huts for the twenty-five 
 Indian coolies he had brought up from Melindi the day before. 
 I pushed on, and eventually joined the old road cut by Mr.
 
 90 TRAX'KLS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 Anstruther, still in a wonderful state of preservation. The 
 well-worn footpath in the centre showed that it was appreciated 
 and well used by the W'anika and Giryama tribes. Proceeding 
 along this road through continuous forest, I obtained here 
 and there, through openings in the forest, glimpses of the 
 Sabaki river below winding through a flat country. 
 
 Great results would follow the opening up and settlement 
 of this fertile and extensive area, in which irrigation from the 
 river would be an important factor. Continuing through the 
 forest, I commenced descending the hill, and obtained a fine 
 view of the flat countr}' to the north, with a few low bush- 
 covered hills, and Magarini Hill observable in the distance. 
 The Sabaki flows at the foot of Sekoki Hill ; the river was 
 then low, but the water-marks on the bank showed the 
 height it rises to in the wet season. It flows over a wide 
 sandy bed, and the soil of the banks consists of black sandy 
 loam, covered on both sides with high thick grass, which 
 is used by the Giryama people for thatching purposes. On 
 the south bank I noticed patches of Indian corn planted by 
 the W'a-Giryama, and proving, by its most luxuriant growth, 
 the richness of the soil, which is of a black sandy loam. 
 Tobacco should do exceedingly well here. Leaving the river 
 t struck inland towards Jelori lake, passing through bush and 
 scrub, with large trees here and there. The total distance 
 from Melindi I estimated to be about eighteen or twenty miles. 
 Lake Jelori appeared to be large, with numerous winding 
 bays. The Church Missionary Society had a small settle- 
 ment here, situated on one of the points of the lake, under the 
 charge of the Rev. Mr. Hooper and the Rev. Mr. Burt, and 
 they had a small colony of Christian Giryamas settled around 
 them. 
 
 I arrived about 2.30 in the afternoon, two of my askaris 
 having gone on in advance to announce my approach by firing 
 shots. Halting my people outside, I went into the ^Mission 
 ground, but hearing singing I waited until the service was over, 
 and then sent on the head-men to announce my arrival. After 
 a little while, Mr. and ^Irs. Hooper came out to meet me, and 
 cordially invited me to tea and dinner, and to spend the rest 
 of the evening with them, Mr. Hooper kindly showing me a
 
 V TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 91 
 
 suitable place to pitch my camp. My Wanika growled at 
 being sent to get water, saying that they were worked harder 
 than the Melindi porters. I had a " shauri " with them on the 
 subject afterwards. At 5 p.m. I went to Mrs, Hooper's to tea, 
 and on the way met their baby boy, seven months old, being 
 wheeled in a perambulator by its Sudanese nurse — it seemed 
 an odd sight in the wilds of Africa ! 
 
 While strolling about with Mr. Hooper we saw one or two 
 hippopotami in the lake, which he said swarmed with croco- 
 diles. They were very bold and savage brutes ; one of them 
 had recently seized and badly mauled a native boy who was 
 lying asleep in the verandah of a hut, and though happily 
 rescued before the crocodile dragged him into the lake, the 
 poor lad died from the terrible wounds received. Mr. 
 Hooper told me that the wages paid to the Wa-Giryama by 
 the Mission were ten pice per man, and that they only got an 
 hour's rest a day. I spent a very pleasant evening and then 
 came back to my camp, which w^as fairly comfortable under 
 the trees ; my people were camped around me in three batches : 
 nearest me were the Wanika, then came the askaris, who, 
 being more luxurious, had built themselves a hut ; the rest 
 were perfectly happy sitting round their different camp-fires 
 and sleeping in the open. They all made an awful row sing- 
 ing, talking, etc., but one got accustomed to it. The country 
 round my camp appeared to be a flat plain, covered with dry 
 grass and clumps of bush, and some trees. The soil varied 
 from a friable black to a lighter-coloured earth, but was all good. 
 
 At first Jelori lake does not seem as large as it really is ; it is 
 only after going round a portion of it, and coming upon bay 
 after bay— each hidden by the intervening point of land until 
 it reveals itself — that its actual size is realized. It lies in a 
 basin, from which the ground rises gently on every side, and is 
 surrounded almost entirely by thick bush, with a fringe of high 
 grass near the water's edge, amongst which were numerous 
 marks of hippos. I walked round a considerable portion of 
 the lake, the bush being so thick that one had to crawl through 
 on hands and knees. The water is very discoloured, of a deep 
 yellow colour. There is one island in the lake, and to the 
 north and east there are some low hills — including Sekoki —
 
 92 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 and man)' small villages. There were one or two small 
 Gir)ama clearings near the Mission houses and settlements. 
 Near the water's edge the soil was a stiff clay ; higher up, 
 a stiff tenacious black loam ; while beyond the borders of 
 the lake it became more friable. I discovered later on that 
 in the wet season the northern end of the lake and the 
 Sabaki are connected by a channel through which the river 
 flows into the lake, and at the same time floods the low'- 
 l}-ing land between it and Sekoki Hill, forming an extensive 
 sheet of water 5 to 6 feet deep. The only means of communi- 
 cation between Jelori and Melindi is then by the Mission canoe. 
 In the dry season this low-lying flat, with its rich, deep, loamy 
 soil, is extensively cultivated by the Wa-Giryama. 
 
 Mr. Hooper informed me that the people had two culti- 
 vating seasons, one in the S.W. monsoon at the beginning of 
 the }'ear, and the second during the N.E. rains. In the 
 afternoon of my second day at Jelori I went to return the visit 
 of an important Giryama head-man who had been to see me. 
 I struck off by a path leading to the Sabaki, passing two 
 smaller lakes (alive with hippos), one on the right hand and the 
 other on the left, and through gently undulating country with 
 big trees and excellent black soil. I then came upon a third 
 lake connected with the Sabaki by a deep natural channel. 
 The banks of the Sabaki, which I followed for a short distance, 
 were cultivated by the Wa-Giryama with patches of Indian corn, 
 sweet potatoes, and tobacco, though the soil, a fine sandy loam, 
 is evidently flooded in the wet season. The north bank was 
 flat and low, and covered with deep white sand left by the last 
 flood. Be}'ond this, as far as could be seen — up to Magarini 
 Hill, which was distinctl)- visible to the N.E. — the country was 
 very flat and entirel}' co\-ered with bush. Water could easil}^ 
 be diverted b)- channels from the river into the plain be}'ond, 
 and the extended development and cultivation of the latter 
 secured by a proper system of irrigation. I was informed that 
 there was a direct path known to the Wanika from Jelori to 
 Magarini Hill, over which I subsequently travelled. 
 
 Our path now led through fine forest and by some large 
 Gir)'ama clearings. These people apparentl)- clear only the 
 undergrowth, killing the large trees b}' hea[)ing up the dry
 
 V TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 93 
 
 brushwood and firing it ; and the appearance of these clear- 
 ings, with so many charred trees left standing, was most 
 unsightly. 
 
 I now came upon a large flat area evidently flooded by 
 the Sabaki in wet weather, with some very fine tobacco and 
 Indian corn growing, and finally arrived at the Giryama 
 village of Kizojuba, one of the largest round Jelori. I 
 held a " shauri " with the chief, Kizomba (a Giryama village 
 generally takes its name from the head-man), and the 
 principal people, telling them I had come into their country 
 to see how its resources could be developed, that I was ready 
 to give them seeds of new products, and wanted the head-men 
 of the villages round Jelori to come to my camp, where I 
 would have a shauri with them and explain everything. My 
 remarks were well received. 
 
 I returned by the back of Kizomba village by another road, 
 passing through fairly good forest, amongst which I noticed 
 a good many cacti and Hyph^ene palms ; also a good many 
 aloes {Sansevieria species) called " n'konge." The fibre of 
 the latter is much used by the Wa-Giryama for making ropes 
 and fastenings of all kinds. We passed a good many newly- 
 burned clearings in the forest, which the Giryama were 
 preparing for the coming N.E. rains. All this forest land 
 had fine black soil. I arrived at my camp late in the after- 
 noon, well pleased with the results of my expedition. 
 
 Next morning I went off with Selim in quest of hippo. 
 Baba, the Melindi head-man, came with us, but he was of no 
 use, as he lingered behind unwilling to follow us through the 
 long grass, so we got a Giryama to show us the way. He led 
 us over the flat, through thick high grass, and through deep 
 black oozy mud to the edge of the lake. 
 
 As there was no shelter, Selim made a screen of sticks and 
 grasses. I saw three hippos with their heads out of the 
 water, one a very large one, and another with a young one 
 on its back. When they perceived us they made an awful 
 row, snorting and bellowing, but keeping well out of range ; 
 we sat waiting on the wet mud for nearly two hours, but to 
 no purpose. On turning away, 1 saw three or four large 
 crocodiles sunning themselves a little way off; I stalked one
 
 94 TRANELS IN EAST AFRICA CH.M'. 
 
 on my hands and knees, and then fired, but only hit him in 
 the side, and he rushed back into the lake. 
 
 After haxing tea with the Hoopers, I went down to the 
 lake again, and saw three hippos ; I fired two long shots 
 at one, but missed. It was now getting dark, and just as I 
 was turning away a young female hippo came straight for 
 us, and I got a splendid shot at her right between the eyes 
 with m\- Martini- Henry. Next morning there was great 
 rejoicing among the Wanika and Giryama over the dead 
 hippo. They are ver}' fond of its flesh, and had dragged it 
 ashore. Mr. Hooper had the bod)- towed by his canoe to 
 the point below his house, and superintended the cutting up 
 of the meat for the people — who took everything awa}-, even 
 the entrails. Mr. Hooper promised to bur)- the head and 
 keep the skull for me until I sent for it. 
 
 I was desirous to examine the Sabaki end of the con- 
 nection between the river and the lake, so I made a .second 
 \isit to the place, crossing the intervening flat, which lies to 
 the north ; the soil is in most places a tenacious grey to 
 black clay, but \'er}- rich. After the floods this flat land is 
 cultixatcd b\- the \\'a-Gir)'ama, and I saw large patches uf 
 Indian corn, beans, sweet potatoes, and tobacco, and passed 
 a good many newly-burned clearings, ready for the X.E. 
 rains of October and November. The grass was fully 7 
 feet high. 
 
 Next da)- I set off with m)- two head-men, and Ramazan as 
 interpreter, to visit two other Giryama villages some distance 
 off Passing through fine open flat countr)', glades and 
 scattered bush, with a fine friable light soil, I came upon 
 a small Giryama village, and spoke to the head-man, as I had 
 done in the previous case, and he accompanied us to the 
 other and larger village further on. On our wa)- I caught 
 a distant view of the Sabaki and the country near it, covered 
 with heavy forest. The soil here became more red-coloured 
 and porous, and the drainage of the surface soil appeared 
 remarkably good ; the forest becoming thicker as we pro- 
 ceeded, and the country more broken and hill)-. On the way 
 I noticed a small field of specially fine tobacco ; it was 
 luxuriant in the extreme, and the country about here seemed
 
 i.^^'. 
 
 
 .'^v'^^^::^^ 
 

 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 97 
 
 to me particularly well adapted for the cultivation of this 
 crop. The soil was excellent, a fine friable black mould. 
 
 The Giryama village I had specially come to visit was 
 right in the forest, and the largest I had yet seen. The 
 head-man, by name Toyo Wabakulo, appeared most intel- 
 ligent. On mentioning my idea of making a small experi- 
 mental plantation at Jelori, where the people could come and 
 see the new products cultivated and obtain seeds, etc., he 
 was much interested in my scheme and offered to look 
 out and find a suitable piece of land for the purpose. This 
 head-man accompanied me back to the camp, and in the 
 afternoon (September 23) I held an important " shauri " with 
 eight of the principal Wa-Gir}'ama head-men of Jelori, 
 including Toyo Wabakulo and Kizomba. 
 
 I entered fully into the nature of my mission in the 
 country, and said that now^ I had seen and examined it, I 
 felt sure that many new products could be grown. I added 
 that I was going to suggest to the Company the establish- 
 ment of an experimental plantation here, where cultivation 
 of new products would be introduced, and where they could 
 come and see and learn for themselves ; that seeds would be 
 supplied to them (instancing tobacco), and that eventuall}' the 
 leaf of the new variety would be bought from them. I asked 
 them whether if this was done they could supply the labour 
 required. They replied most eagerly that they would, and 
 wanted to hear when I would begin — in fact, they all 
 appeared to be most interested in the matter, and said they 
 would most 'gladly cultivate any new products, provided a 
 sale of the same was assured them. 1 promised that this 
 would be done, asserting that the Company was most desirous 
 to see their country developed and their people prosperous 
 and happy. I then distributed some good tobacco-seed 
 among them, telling them to grow it quite apart from their 
 own. The VVa-Giryama around Jelori alone number over 
 three thousand ; they are intelligent, industrious, and keen 
 agriculturists ; their blacksmith's work too is remarkably 
 good. They make their own hoes, and I was shown some 
 necklets of iron of remarkably good manufacture. 
 
 I see no reason \\'h)' this tribe should not be induced to
 
 98 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap 
 
 take u|) the ciiUi\;iti«)n nf many new ])n)(lucts ; indeed, they 
 appear most read)- and wilhuL;' to do so. Hesifles ij^rowing 
 and curing" tobacco, the)- might also cultivate cotton, jute, 
 rice, indiarubber, and the castor-oil plant, in the fine forest 
 land along both banks of the river. 
 
 It seems to me that this would be a much more effectual 
 mode of opening up the Sabaki country than that of merely 
 inducing freed slaves from the coast to come and settle here. 
 
 Land, I feel sure, would soon be taken up around Jelori ; 
 Mr. Hooper, to whom I mentioned my views, expressed his 
 entire concurrence. An important point, too, would be the 
 proximity of the Church Missionary Society's station ; the 
 educated and Christianized natives would be most useful on 
 the model plantation, where they would find employment, and 
 form an important factor in helping to civilize the district. 
 Mr. Hooper very kindly consented to take charge of a rain- 
 gauge, and to keep a record of the rain-fall at Jelori for me, 
 and I take this opportunity to gratefully ackno^\'ledge how- 
 much I was indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Hooper in a number of 
 ways, for many acts of kindness and sympathy during my 
 stay at Jelori. Mrs. Hooper, I grieve to say, died soon 
 afterwards of fever. 
 
 This evening I availed myself of Mr. Hooper's canoe to go 
 out on the lake after hippo ; it was the first time such a thing 
 had been attempted, and w^e had an exciting time. Mr. 
 Hooper, myself, and Selim, with two men to punt, went 
 straight for five hippos in the water. One came right for us, 
 and to make certain of my shot, I waited for him to come 
 nearer still, but to my disappointment he suddenly veered off 
 into deeper water. Selim now proposed that we should bear 
 down on a group of about a dozen hippos, that were watching 
 us, and when quite near to give them a fusillade ; but unfor- 
 tunately we could not get near them, as they kept moving 
 away as we advanced. Moreover it was getting very dark, and 
 we had some very narrow escapes from being upset, which, 
 with the probability any moment of a hippo coming for us, 
 made it very lively. One of the askaris was in an awful funk, 
 and I could not much blame him; for if we had been upset 
 the consequences would have been much more serious than a
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 99 
 
 ducking — nothing", in fact, could have saved us, for the lake 
 simply swarmed with crocodiles, and we saw one or two 
 monsters swimming about, and keeping near us. Mr. Hooper 
 assured me it was not safe for a child to go down to the 
 water's edge, as the crocodiles would seize them at once ; even 
 donkeys and other animals going down to drink often became 
 the prey of these brutes. 
 
 I found the hippo pie at dinner that evening not at all bad ; 
 it tasted rather like beef Mr. Hooper told me that the Wasania 
 (a Tana tribe, about whom I shall have more to say further on) 
 are great hunters and eaters of hippo flesh, and that they have 
 a regular sort of call, which only a few of their hunters are 
 able to make, that so irritates the hippos, that it brings them 
 snorting out of the ^\•ater, when the hunters shoot them 
 with their poisoned arrows. Another method of tempting 
 them ashore is to wave a white cloth on a pole, which 
 apparently has the same effect upon them as a red rag on 
 a bull. 
 
 There was a good deal of rain during the night, and my 
 people had rather an unpleasant time of it. As many as could 
 do so crept under the fly of my tent ! ■ 
 
 The Wa-Gir}^ama are undoubtedly the most important and 
 numerous of all the tribes along the coast-belt.^ 
 
 Giryama (their habitat) " is the name of a tract of countr)- in 
 East Equatorial Africa about fifty-five miles in length, and 
 about thirty-five or forty miles in extreme breadth, of which 
 the northern extremity may now be said to touch the Sabaki 
 river at Jelori, while the most eastern point is at Nyari, on 
 the inner slope of the range of hills that runs S.S.E, from 
 Mount Mangea to the port of M'Tanganyiko, and the most 
 southern is at Kaya-Giryama (metropolis of Giryama), some 
 hours north-west from the C. M. S. station of Kisulutini. The 
 most westerly portion of Giryama seems to be the districts 
 near Kira and Wacho. 
 
 " The country falls into three divisions : the Weruni (or 
 
 1 For the following notes I am indebted to the Rev. W. E. Taylor's 
 cordial kindness in giving me permission to freely use the valuable in- 
 formation contained in his Voca^'itltirv of the Giryama Language^ 
 published by the S. P. C. K.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 ' Vcklt ') of Giryama, Central Giryama, and Northern 
 (iir>'aina — of which the hitter is |jerhap.s the most populous. 
 
 " I. The Wcruni — once thickly populated, as is evidenced 
 hy the numerous deserted palm-groves and sites — is compara- 
 tivel}' well watered, abounding in springs. Its soil is reputed 
 to be fertile, and to afford excellent pasturage ; but the 
 incursions of the Masai have driven away the inhabitants from 
 the more exposed portions — those between the Kaya and the 
 
 WA-aiRVAMA. 
 
 south of Mwaeba's Hill, where is the C. M. S. station of 
 Kam'likeni (' Come-and-praise-Him ! ')." 
 
 The Wcruni is composed of twelve districts, or " malalo." 
 " The first five of these are said to number only a single town 
 apiece (1887), not reckoning the settlements of Kambas. The 
 rest are fairly populous, with the exception of Gotani. The 
 last seven lie in a line between the Ka)'a and Mwaeba's. 
 
 " 2. Cctitral Giryama is arid, with salt rivulets and springs. 
 The surface water is used for drinking, and is collected in
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 ' mitsara,' or holes made for the purpose. As in the dry 
 season the supply is exceedingly scarce, it is preserved by 
 means of spells and ' medicine,' removable only by the 
 possessor, in whose absence no water can be drawn from the 
 pits without incurring the consequences of violating the spell. 
 Many families who were originally emigrants from the Weruni 
 are found in this part of Giryama, but the great bulk seem to 
 have settled in the northern division. 
 
 " Central Giryama is composed of thirteen districts. 
 
 " 3. Northern Giryama. — Mount Mangea, at the extreme 
 north-east of this division, is said to have been the original 
 seat, not only of the Giryamas, but of the different Taita 
 tribes. This statement is remarkable, for the languages as at 
 present spoken present a great contrast, the Giryama approach- 
 ing the Nyika dialects, and the Taita approximating to Kamba 
 in structure and sound. At present Mangea is almost water- 
 less, and the villages at its base have to fetch their supply 
 from a great distance for many months together, in some cases 
 from brackish wells more than two hours distant. The night 
 is often devoted to the procuring of the daily water supply. 
 The heavy dews explain the luxuriance of the crops in this 
 otherwise droughty northern district. 
 
 "The principal districts included in Northern Giryama 
 are — • 
 
 " Kazlya-M'oyo. 
 
 " J^r kaiuna-K' endsi (' the Kauma-man doesn't like,' so 
 called from a contention which arose between people that had 
 left the Weruni to find a safer abode in North Giryama 
 and some Nyikas of the Ribe tribe, who had separated from 
 their fellow-tribesmen by reason of a severe famine, with the 
 intention of making a temporary sojourn in the hilly district 
 they now occupy. Here the fertility of the spot was such 
 that they said Hiidzire hiikauvia — ' We have come and we 
 remain ' — hence their name. They multiplied at such a rate 
 that they pushed northwards into the Giryama territory 
 vacated by the Gallas, and claimed this particular district as 
 theirs when the Gir)'amas came ' to take their own again '). 
 
 " M'tsangamalc. 
 
 '' Magogoni (stumbling-blocks, or, logs-in-the-path).
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 "Rare kzva Mivnvinvo (Mwavuwo's at Rare), a Ditjo settle- 
 ment. 
 
 " Diiidiri kioa Ngonyo (Ngonyo's at Dindiri), another Digo 
 settlement, under the father (?) of the preceding chief. 
 
 " Siiiihimbc (' Touch me not,' said to the encroaching 
 Kaumas by the Giryama settlers). 
 
 " Mangea, on the western slopes of the range of that name. 
 
 " Mangca-iua-Nyasi, Grassy Mangea, the plain to the west 
 of the mountain. 
 
 '' Fuladoyo (from the Galla, ' fuldoya' = looking-glass). 
 
 " Migodoniani (the Mgodoma trees). 
 
 " Mzvangiido (on the rixer of that name). 
 
 " Many of the ' malalo ' are now depopulated. One of the 
 most populous is that o{ Magogoni, in Northern Giryama. 
 
 " In both Central and Northern Giryama, people in favour- 
 able years reap large harvests. Fruit-bearing trees are 
 comparatively scarce in this region ; the papaw and pineapple 
 are, however, plentiful, especially the latter. Coco-nuts, 
 mangoes, oranges, and bananas are said not to do well, and 
 limes, and especially lemons, are poor. 
 
 " The numerous wild aloes, screw pines and bowstring hemps 
 {SanSi'i'icrias), luiphorbias, the dried boughs of which are used
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 for torches, and Cycads, are here and there burnt down 
 annually by the people engaijed in making clearings for 
 cultivation ; hence the ground becomes covered with an 
 alkaline ash, from which the salts are washed out by the rains 
 and carried into the soil. To this may be due the nauseous 
 character of the spring water in parts of the country. 
 
 " The destruction of the forests may have affected the rain- 
 fall, for since the last colonies were led into Central and 
 Northern Giryama (upon the withdrawal of the Gallas, about 
 a century ago), the old people say that there has been a great 
 change, not onl}' in the character of the water (which used 
 to flow szveet in the Muhoni river and that near Fuladoyo — 
 the iiiuho xva Miva-Ngudo — ' the river of (the hill of) Mwa- 
 Ngudo' — as well as in the river Bale), but also in the fertility 
 of the ground ; in many places it will no longer grow the 
 banana to perfection as formerly on account of the ' bitterness 
 of the soil.' " 
 
 The Giryama people (in Swahili, Giriyama or Giriama) 
 inhabit the country north of Mombasa between 39 East 
 longitude and 3 South latitude, and form the most important 
 of the tribes inhabiting the immediate coast-zone. They are 
 quite separate from the Nyika tribes, which both they and 
 the Digos affect to despise. 
 
 The Xyika tribes inhabit the country north and south of 
 the Giryamas. 
 
 " Notes on the Giryama Religion. — God, Mulungu, is 
 often popularly understood as (i) Sky, (2) luck, (3) manes of 
 father, etc. The Preserver, Miirindzi ; the T>[s^osQr, A-hcjida- 
 ye-to ; the Creator, Miiumbi. In the Giryama natural 
 philosophy all things are supposed to have been created by 
 the union, as if in marriage, of the Sky and the Earth ; both 
 are supposed by some to be living beings. Hence, probably, 
 the native scruple about selling a piece of land ; it is the trees 
 only that are considered as being salable. 
 
 " Giryamas believe that two persons, a male and female, 
 come from above to every child's birth ; if a bo}', the male 
 assigns to him the period and manner of ending of his life ; 
 if a girl, it is the female. 
 
 "We are supposed to be God's hens and chickens ; and if a
 
 I04 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 person dies, it is thouc^ht that a stranger has arrived in heaven, 
 
 and a fowl has been called for his entertainment. 
 
 "It is not thought that spirits are created afresh ; all spirits 
 are the same. Wlien a person dies his spirit is put into 
 another body, and yet the k'oina is ' culted ' : for the Giryama 
 thinks that the disembodied spirit is powerful for good and 
 evil. Individuals worship the Shades of their immediate 
 ancestors or elder relatives ; and the k'oiiias of the whole 
 nation are worshipped on public occasions. 
 
 " A jinn or demon {pepo), called Katsumbakazi, is said to be 
 seen occasionally. It is malignant, and, being of no great 
 stature, when it meets any one, is jealous lest it should be 
 despised for its insignificant size. It accordingly asks, 
 'Where did you first catch sight of me?' If the person is 
 so unlucky as to answer, 'Just here!' he is sure to die 
 shortly ; if he is aware of the danger, and says, ' Oh, over 
 yonder ! ' he will be left unharmed, and it may be that some 
 good will happen to him. But a jinn is not human. 
 
 "The European 'ghost' is not known, but the spirits of 
 near ancestors may appear in dreams, and give directions to 
 their acquaintance and relatives. Sacrifices at the deceased's 
 grave for the sake of satisfying the hunger of his spirit are 
 frequently made in consequence of such directions. 
 
 " Sacrifices are made at their graves to such of the departed 
 as have families. A little flour-and-water is poured into a 
 sort of funnel of cocoa-nut shell let into the ground (m'sa/a), 
 and all fowls, etc., are killed so that the blood falls on the 
 grave, and a portion of all food is reserved for this purpose. 
 On making the offering, the dead are called by name to come 
 and partake, and told to bring their friends, who are also 
 mentioned by name. An upright post or wooden 'headstone' 
 is placed at the head of the graves, carved for the men, plain 
 and small for women. It has a sort of neck. The men's 
 have a piece of old kitsainbi (coloured cloth) and bcndera 
 (Turkey twill) wrapped round them ; the women's have the 
 national kilt in miniature. The irreligious and careless 
 among the Giryamas are reminded by their friends about 
 the duty of sacrificing, and people that have been growing 
 negligent remember these duties of their own accord, e.g-
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 when ill, when about to take a journey, at a wedding-feast, or a 
 child-birth ; the latter, in order that Muliingu aninlaye, that 
 ' God may forget ' the child, that it may live (!). Mulungii 
 ni amulaye bat apate kukala viusinia ! ' Well, God forget 
 him, that he may become strong and well ! ' says one, on 
 hearing of the birth of a friend's child. At the burial of chiefs 
 a bullock is offered, and every relation who comes to the 
 hangani (rites) will make his offering. A man and his 
 wife, though buried apart, have their memorials (sticks or 
 head-posts) placed side by side. 
 
 " At the sowing of seed after rain, a little of the seed is 
 ground and poured out early at the door of the house of the 
 person that will sow it, with a simple prayer to the departed 
 spirit {komd). At harvest the same is done at the door and 
 the garner. Also when pombe (beer) is brewed, some of 
 the liquid is poured out at the gate of the town, at the roots 
 of the chief trees, and on the graves within its walls, and a 
 prayer accompanies the act : ' That he may proceed to 
 drink, and when he is intoxicated let him sleep, and not 
 revile his companion, nor engage in quarrelling, so that when 
 he rises up from here he may rise- up with the fumes out 
 of him ; let him sleep.' {Ende-tnca pombe, akirea ni ala/e, 
 atsaJiukana iinuajidzkue makaJieha ; hata akinka haJia aiike 
 udzam' leiika ; ni alale); that the drink may not excite quarrels. 
 Upon erecting a forge, a solemn incense offering is made in 
 secret on the anvil-block. 
 
 " Prayer's (ku-hasa koma) are offered to the manes at the 
 building of a town, before war expeditions, and when persons 
 are sick. When the town is removed the grave is not dug 
 up, but a cenotaph is erected with prayers and sacrifices, a 
 tree having been cut down early in the morning to serve for 
 the head-post. 
 
 " No distinction is made between spirits good and bad ; but 
 a spirit is thought to be as much subject to changes of temper 
 as a human being. Konio ya nganya KaifivaJui Kaniar, 
 idzagoniya vif'u na nganya K'aJiolere (' The Shade of So- 
 and-So's father is of no use at all ; it has finished up his 
 property, and yet So-and-So is not better'), said one Giryama 
 to another about the result of a series of offerings a man had
 
 io6 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 made to his paternal Shade with the object of regaining 
 health. 
 
 " Mean.s used fur looking into the future — 
 
 "■Divination (kutsuha mburuga), and casting lots (kuhenda 
 milamulo), arc both greatly in vogue. The former brings 
 great profit to a class (jf medicine-men, aganga, who inspect 
 the results of the casting of a number of heterogeneous articles 
 out of a magic dice-box into a circle drawn in the dust. 
 
 " The latter method may be resorted to by any individual 
 interested, without any previous ceremonies. He takes two 
 sticks and a castor-oil seed {AFBono), and places them together 
 the night before an intended journey, about the advisability 
 of which he is uncertain. If on the morrow the articles 
 are found to have come together, the omen is considered 
 favourable. 
 
 " Rain-}naking(k\\e\-\d3.\ombdi wula). Water is poured into 
 the jar in the kiaa or shrine of the konia (Shades). 
 
 " The Shades are invoked at the rite of circumcision, etc 
 The ceremonies are not different from the ordinary Kuhasa 
 or cult. 
 
 " The Jiycena (fisi). This ' token ' is still held in veneration. 
 When the sacred animal dies, the whole tribe shave and 
 make other signs of mourning. The sacred howling of the 
 Muandza drum is in some way connected with theyfj/. The 
 itmermost circle of the curious Freemasonry, presently referred 
 to, derives its name from this beast. 
 
 " Man's Early State. — TJie havoc ivronght by the ivoman. — 
 The Giryamas say that ' in early times people never did 
 any work, but had it done for them by animals. And it was 
 the woman that did the harm by wanting the head of an 
 animal. An animal was wont to be caught in the garden, 
 where they were having the cultivation done for them by the 
 animals. The animals used to come to the village without 
 having any heads. And so the woman said, " These animals 
 that come every day never have heads ! Ikit where do the 
 heads go?" But the husband said, "Eat the flesh: what 
 need have you of the heads?" And so she ate it. And at 
 last one day, as the husband was going to the garden, she 
 followed behind him, and went on till, when she arri\ed within
 
 V TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 107 
 
 the garden, she stood still at the trunk of a baobab tree in 
 order to see those animals with no heads. At length these 
 coming along began to set about their tasks. And she said, 
 " La ! to be sure, those then are the things that cultivate — 
 those creatures ! " And she said, " Well, I have seen them ! " 
 At last, as she was wanting to go back to the village, one 
 animal saw her, and said to his companions, " Look behind 
 the baobab tree ! " And then, as they looked, they saw the 
 woman, and immediately on seeing her they all threw down 
 their hoes and ran away, and became some light-coloured 
 apes, others some dark-coloured apes. Now, if it had not 
 been for that woman we should still be having our cultivation 
 done for us by animals. After this, as whenever those animals 
 saw her husband, they would run off, he wondered : " What 
 have they seen, these creatures that are running away?" So 
 as he was looking about — "it is that wife of his!" And he 
 went and said to her, " Now, then, what have you come 
 wanting here ? " But she could find no answer to give him. 
 And he said, " You used to have your cultivation done for 
 you. But you have been to look at the creatures, and so you 
 shall cultivate yourself" ' 
 
 " So (it w^as that) people began to cultivate from that very 
 time up to the present. 
 
 " The Origin of Deatii.^ — The Chameleon was ordered 
 by God, ' Go and tell people that they are to multiply, but 
 not to die.' But while the chameleon, with his usual slow 
 gait, was departing to go and give (his message), the Mugakha 
 Lizard had also heard, but he went off at a run. At last 
 when he had arrived where the people were, he said, ' You 
 have been told to multiply, but die.' And he immediately 
 departed. Then the Chameleon too appeared upon the scene 
 and gave his message : ' You have been told to multiply, but 
 not to die.' And those people said, ' W^ell, where were you ? 
 We have already been told by the Mugakha, and you too 
 
 ' "The myth of the Chameleon, typifying the failure of the good 
 principle in man before the evil, and its result in bringing death upon 
 the world, is told with hardly a variation by the Zulus. See Rishop 
 Callaway's Zulu Collections^ published in South Africa, for a sight of 
 which I am indebted to the Bishop of Salisbury." — Rev. W. E. Taylor.
 
 io8 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 come to tell your falsehoods ! If you had really been sent 
 would you not have come before now ? Well, we have the 
 account of yonder one who came and told us first.' And the 
 Chameleon was accounted a liar, while the Mugakha was 
 (forsooth) a truth-teller, all because of his speed. 
 
 " The Giryamas believe in a devil or possessing spirit {pcpo, 
 pcpo iiyaiiia). There are a number of the latter in the 
 Giryama demonology — of whom many take their names from 
 neighbouring African nations — amongst others being Nyania 
 VHDia-titi (the ' owl ' that seizes little children in the night, 
 i. e. the croup). 
 
 " Circumcision-cycles (marika). These play a very important 
 part in the Giryama commonwealth. Every child born before 
 a certain time that is not already circumcised has to be 
 brought to one common place, where the ceremony is gone 
 through. All the children of one cycle receive a common 
 name and are bound by a common tie. They grow up free 
 of the same private clubs, and from their number are chosen 
 the three enye-tsi, when the time comes for such promotion. 
 The cycles always bear the following names (which are taken 
 by their respective members), and succeed one another in the 
 following order — 
 
 " ( I ) Wula-nibere, ' First-rains.' 
 
 (2) Wula-kaJii, ' Middle-rains.' 
 
 (3) Wiila-nyuma, ' Latter-rains.' 
 
 (4) Tungudza^ ' Tomatoes.' 
 
 (5) Puku, ' Large wild rats.' 
 
 (6) Nguluwe^ ' Pigs.' 
 
 (7) F//rt;;/^/, now meaning 'coloured cloths.' 
 
 (8) Vitsoka, ' Hatchets.' 
 
 (9) Abi-Kisi, 'Kizi's father.' 
 
 (10) Aisai/\\\z3.rds.' 
 
 (11) Mafira, ' Puff-adders.' 
 
 (12) Mitseka, 'Mats.' 
 
 (13) Nyoga, 'Feathers.' 
 
 "Coming next to the curious custom of Freemasonry, pre- 
 valent amongst this tribe, the system of initiation is called 
 Kaiiibi, after its most numerous division. The preliminaries 
 to the Habasi (First Degree) are —
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 109 
 
 "(1) Uhoho, Infancy. The muJioho, child, is not yet 
 sufficiently grown, or cannot yet afford the fees, to become 
 a candidate. From the latter cause there are many grown- 
 up ' infants ' in Giryama. 
 
 " (2) Uniondo, the Candidature. Negotiations have been 
 entered into by the child's father for his initiation into the first 
 grade, the Habasi. 
 
 " (3) Ubora, the having been declared free of the First 
 Degree (Habasi), follows in due course, and the youth takes 
 his place among the AJioJio a Haba-si-ni^ children in the 
 Habasi. He is now allowed to have his share in the division 
 of the fees paid by the Umofido for their candidature, which 
 consist of flesh, beer, etc.^ He and his companions are 
 called Nyere, and are still under the care of their hierophant, 
 the Miihagizi, who completes this stage of his teaching by 
 putting them through a course of medicine, teaching them 
 simples and spells (but not charms or fetishes — pcngii), in the 
 woods, where he takes them and shows them every medicinal 
 herb. While engaged in this study, the initiated receive the 
 name oi AhoJio a Miha-so-ni, Children in the Simples. 
 
 " Tlie Preliminaries totJie full status of the R'ambi. — There 
 are four ceremonies of initiation to be passed before an 
 M'Giryama can enjoy his full status as a citizen ; each is 
 named after its ceremonial dance. 
 
 "(i) Gawe, the Distribution or Partition — that is, into those 
 who may and those who may not wear the full-sized loin- 
 cloth. The mysteries last six ritual ' days ' of twelve hours 
 each, which are practically three ordinary days. The Giryama 
 daytime is divided into ten niirongo or decades, which are, 
 
 ^ Their method of making beer is thus described — 
 
 " One begins by putting the grain into the mortars with water ; and at 
 daybreak you put (it) into leaves, and leave (it) until it has stayed two 
 days, then you go to see it ; if you find it has not yet shot out shoots, you 
 then put w^ater upon it again, and it again stays two days, until when you 
 go, thus, it has shot forth shoots, it has become malt ; then you take it 
 out and spread it in the sun, and at last when it is dry and you grind it, 
 it has become a seasoning, and then if it is to be for iiiinbu (a kind of 
 pap-like beer), one puts it in (the pot), and if not, it is for beer.'"' 
 
 An intoxicating drink is also made from the cocoa-nut, wild date, and 
 Hyphivne palm, and called //(///-mead.
 
 no TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 however, only imaginary divisions. The hierophant of the 
 Gdtvc is called M'knrd, as if to say, the Initiator of the 
 Greater Mysteries, and the Mysteries themselves are called 
 Mtvandza M'kuhi, the Greater Mystic Drum. The candidates, 
 Ku-tsindza rigo, ' flay the Great Skin ' (?), /. e. they are 
 shown the Mivandza by the Initiator. This drum, with its 
 strange roaring bellow, is used to excite the superstitions of 
 the common people, 
 
 "(2) Sayo ra K'oma, the Clapping of the Shades (the 
 ancestral ghosts), is a dance which lasts only one day. The 
 hierophant is called simply Mzuenye Sayo, the Clapping Man. 
 There seems to be no special names for these officers in the 
 succeeding steps. 
 
 " (3) M'ngaro, Shining, is the same in the duration of its 
 ceremonies as the Gaive. It receives its name from the fact 
 that the candidates are entirely smeared with clay, which 
 gives them a weird appearance. 
 
 " (4) Kirao lasts for the same period as the Gaive and 
 M'ltg'aro. In this dance the bodies of the initiated are reek- 
 ing wath oil. They vie with one another in the amount of 
 their fees, and the one who surpasses his companions is 
 entrusted with the keeping of the ritual drum peculiar to this 
 class — a long bamboo closed at the end with a tight skin, and 
 beaten rhythmically with a pounding motion upon the ground. 
 This drum they call their inusicJiaua, or ' young woman.' 
 
 " The man has now become free of the Second Degree, the 
 Kambi. He may assume the Inwoo or armlet, denoting 
 status, at the Nyambitra dance, and sit in the M'o)'o, or 
 Parliament, where at first he is usually content to listen to his 
 elders, and learn the tricks of rhetoric. His ambition now is 
 to become a member of the AzJiere, Elders. These are — 
 
 " ( 1 ) \ Vaya, or Circle of the Elders. These may deliberate on 
 smaller judicial questions in their own district {!nlo), but are 
 really nothing more than a convivial club. They are privileged 
 during their sitting with inviolability of person, and then may 
 confiscate any goat, fowl, ox that comes in their way, or any 
 beer or food of any description, if so minded. They carry such 
 articles off to their bandari — the ]\'aya club-house of their 
 district. The}' even confine persf)ns who intrude upon them
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 until the offenders can ransom themselves; and no one who is 
 introduced to them is allowed to salute them, nor do they 
 salute one another in the ordinary manner. In the woods 
 their drunken howlings often make night and day hideous, 
 and altogether the people are becoming tired of them, as they 
 grow less useful to the State. 
 
 "(2) The Fisi, ' Hyrena' — the Inner Circle of all, and very 
 select. The chief of the AsJisre a Fisi-ni, is the M'kuzi (see 
 under Gaiue, above). The members of the Hyjena inspire 
 great terror, as they are the depositories of the most potent 
 spells and oracles. 
 
 " The Enye tsi-i, possessors of the land, are the three elders 
 that govern Giryama and judge the land. They are chosen in 
 rotation from the last two classes, according to their succession 
 in circumcision. These retain power during the interval 
 between one circumcision and another. They can convene 
 the M'oro, or general assembly of the K'ajnbi. 
 
 " The Giryama month is divided into three decades {inakumi). 
 There are seven ' weeks ' of four days each in the month, 
 always beginning with the first day of the week, Jiimiva (from 
 the Ar. ijumaa) ; the second day of the week is Kiiraviuka 
 (= awakening ?) ; the third, Kiirinia-Jiiri (= second culti- 
 vating); the fourth, Kiiisa {■= finish). Hence the month may 
 be tabulated as follows— 
 
 " 1st day, Mzuezi-mosi, is Junnva ra mivczi-iiiosi, 
 
 2nd „ Mzvezi-hiri, is Kuramiika. 
 
 3rd „ Mwezi-haJiu, is Ktiriina-Jiiii. 
 
 4th „ Mzvezi-nne, is Kuisa. 
 
 5th „ Mzvczi-tsano/i^ Jiivnva ra inivczi-tsanc, etc. 
 "After the first ten days, one begins again — viwezi-uiosi, 
 mzvezi-hiri, etc., and so on to the twenty-first day, again — 
 mwezi-inosi, mzvezi-hiri, until the next new moon appears. 
 If there is an odd day or two at the end of the month before 
 the appearance of the new moon, they are kept as Jiimzvas 
 (rest-days). When the new moon is sighted, the seer exclaims, 
 Ko - - -7igo ! (prolonging the first syllable), and all who are 
 within hearing respond in the same way. 
 
 " Mtvaka means year in Gir}'ama, but, strictly speaking, 
 Mzvak(X is the rains that accompan}' the breaking of the S.W.
 
 ii: 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 monsoon, in March or the beginning of April. This is the 
 proper time for all sorts of cultivation, and to be prepared for 
 by one or two months of hard work in the fields. If the 
 Miuaka, or Former Rains, are plentiful, great is the rejoicing ! 
 The ingathering, called Mzuaka Musha (New Year), takes 
 place about four months after the planting. Then, in July or 
 early in August, come the Lesser Rains, nmtsinuo ; a season 
 of fickle showers, seldom sufficient, in Giryama at least, to 
 
 WA-GIRYAMA WOMEN". 
 
 warrant an}- one planting for it. About October comes the 
 second season proper for cultivating, the Vuri, Latter Rains. 
 ; " The different seasons are characterized in the following 
 proverbs — Mzvaka ni hmaina, Viiri ni amisimo — ' The Mwaka 
 is one's own mother, the Vuri is the mother of one's cousin.' 
 Again : Vtiri ni kitinia-ngilo — The Vuri is a grasshopper (lit. 
 hopj)er of hops, a species that makes long aimless leaps), on 
 account of the i)artialit\- of the showers. The first month of
 
 V TRAVELS IxN: EAST AFRICA 113 
 
 the r^//;7 cultivation is called Kiitsaiio,hni there are no special 
 names for the other months. The seasons for cultivation are 
 called viinvigfl, but the year is not divided into thirty-six 
 decades, as is the Persian solar year used by the Swahilis in 
 their cultivation, and for purposes of reckoning, navigation, etc." 
 
 A Giryama possesses only one lawful wife, though often 
 concubines ; these are also accounted wives {iiiiicJie), but a con- 
 cubine's child is considerably looked down upon, and has no 
 status, and is called a bastard. 
 
 As to succession, the paternal uncle inherits on the death of 
 the father, not only all property, but the widow and children 
 as well ! Another curious custom is, " when a man has 
 sneezed, for him immediately to name some of the members 
 of his family, beginning with his father {e.g. ' I am a son of 
 So-and-so and So-and-so ! '), or any ancestor or relative 
 whose name comes easily to the tongue. People present are 
 wont to say politel}', '■ Chauiba u mivana iva nganya laJia ! ' — ' If 
 thou'rt the son of such a one, swear (by his name) ' ! This 
 custom is thought useful for keeping up genealogies." 
 
 In conclusion I quote in full the Rev. W. E. Taylor's com- 
 parison of the Giryama to the Swahili language. 
 
 RELATION OF GIRYAMA TO SWAHILL 
 
 " It will be an instructive study for the student of ' Bantu ' 
 tongues to compare these two languages. The Giryama is 
 interesting to the philologist from its preserving, almost 
 intact, much of the vocabulary and grammatical characteris- 
 tics of the old language on which the modern Swahili is based 
 — the Ngozi. Giryama and Swahili are seen from internal 
 evidence, like many another pair of Bantu tongues, to have 
 been once a single language that at some time or another 
 became split into two ever-increasingly divergent dialects. 
 Whatever difference of form these dialects now present is 
 probably due to the history, so very different in surroundings 
 and fate — of what was once a race of identical origin, manners, 
 and language. As to the respective peoples, there could 
 hardly be a huger contrast than that which they now present; 
 the one, decimated, small, compact ; essentially inland, non- 
 
 I
 
 114 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 slave-holding (there is no genuine Giiyama word for ' slave,' 
 although the institution itself exists in a mild form), and un- 
 commercial ; confined as to habitat ; republican in institutions ; 
 conservative of manners, customs, and the Bantu religion (the 
 worship of ancestors, and the belief in a God) ; destitute of 
 literature, but handing down its legends with literal accuracy 
 of expression and detail — it has apparently preserved its 
 purity of language and lineage up to the present time. The 
 other is, in these respects, what it might be expected to be 
 from its character and accidents — a seafaring, barter-loving 
 race of slave-holders and slave-traders, strewn in a thin line 
 along a thousand miles of creeks and islands ; inhabitants of 
 a coast that has witnessed incessant political changes (in- 
 cluding invasions and civil wars), and a succession of (often 
 foreign) monarchical dynasties in various, usually multiple, 
 centres ; receiving into their midst for ages past a continuous 
 stream of strange blood, consisting not only of serviles from 
 the interior but of immigrants from Persia, Arabia, and 
 Western India, men that have come to live, and often to die, 
 as resident aliens, leaving in many cases a hybrid progeny ; ^ 
 while of the one section of these immigrants — the Arabs — the 
 religion has become the master-religion of the land, over- 
 spreading, if not entirely supplanting, the old Bantu ancestor- 
 ship, and profoundly affecting the whole of the family life ; 
 and at the same time, owing to that religion imposing the 
 daily use in its numerous observances and ceremonies of a 
 tongue ' not understanded of the people,' no less profoundly 
 affecting the native vocabulary and idiom. This latter is 
 perhaps the greatest of all the disturbing influences enumerated 
 above ; for example, we find that the original native expres- 
 sions in such departments as Prayer, Blessing, Ejaculations, 
 Salutations, etc., have either vanished or become obsolete, or 
 are being gradually ousted, their places being occupied by the 
 stereotyped Arabic expressions common to Islam. The 
 language of the one people is a fund of native roots with a 
 
 ' "And here we may mention the result of the successive Portuguese 
 occupations, dating from 1500 to 1750 ; they have left their mark behind 
 them in this respect also, for some of the ' tribes ' of Mombasa lay claim 
 to Portuguese descent."
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 living and elastic apparatus of prefixes, etc., by the intelligent 
 use of which new ideas can be expressed in native forms 
 without the introduction of new words from outside sources. 
 The language of the other is a tongue originally constructed 
 out of similar material and upon identical principles ; but, so 
 to speak, some of its joints have become stiff for want of use ; 
 parts of its body have mortified and dropped off, their places 
 taken by artificial limbs ; and its life-blood is in danger of 
 being poisoned by the bad air of its surroundings."^ 
 
 •^ For further information, see Appendix A.
 
 CHAPTER \T 
 
 THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE SABAKI RIVER 
 
 Leave for .Merikano— Useless'Head-men — Difficult Marching— A Land of 
 Swamps — " M'Lengo-Baya " — First Sight of Wa-(".alla— The Watoro— 
 Camps in the Forest — Hypha^ne Palm Toddy — Watoro Cultivation 
 — Makongeni Stockade — The Runaway-slave Settlements— Recep- 
 tion by the Watoro— Trouble with my Askaris and Wanika — Cowardice 
 of Old Jubah — Exploration up the River— Lost in the Bush— A 
 Proud Cook— " Roughing it " — Back to Makongeni. 
 
 I LEFT Jelori on September 24 for Makongeni, making 
 Merikano, about four hours distant, my first destination. As a 
 rule I followed Mr. Anstruther's road, but it was under water 
 in parts, and I had to deviate frequently into by-paths. 
 Two askaris went on in front with Jubah, and the other three 
 brought up the rear. 
 
 I was very pleased with all my people, and particularly 
 with the nine Wanika, who were behaving splendidly. 
 They had never given me any trouble (except on the one 
 occasion when a difficulty was made about carrying water), 
 and now that they knew they were on what for them 
 was an exceedingly long journey, they did not appear to 
 mind it in the least, and indeed seemed to be getting quite 
 attached to me. Jubah bin Fukir and Baba, the head-men 
 from Melindi, were not of much use ; Selim's opinion of 
 them was that they were only good at eating! Jubah 
 lost the road the first day, and if we had not picked up a 
 Wasania guide I hardly know where we should have gone 
 to. However, I did not regret the error, as it enabled me 
 to see a good deal more of the countr}- ; but my porters 
 grumbled at having so often to turn back. Once we 
 
 116
 
 CH. VI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 117 
 
 followed a hippo track, crawling through thorny bush on 
 our hands and knees, and handing the loads on from one 
 to another. 
 
 We first traversed fine open bush country, with a black 
 cotton soil ; then proceeded through heavier forest with 
 light friable soil. I noticed that many of the trees had a 
 good deal of light green moss hanging in festoons from the 
 branches ; and we passed a good deal of cacti. The way 
 then led through some open glades with guinea-grass 
 growing plentifully. After descending suddenly to a lower 
 level, where we came upon a small lake in a hollow, with 
 fine black cotton soil round it, we again missed the road and 
 had to re-ascend and return, descending this time upon a 
 large low-lying plain, with a good many Giryama clearings 
 in the forest, planted as usual with Indian corn, pumpkins, 
 beans, and tobacco, the soil being a rich tenacious black 
 loam. Next we went through a dried swamp now covered 
 all over with luxuriant guinea-grass, and a succulent aquatic 
 species very similar in appearance to Mauritius grass. 
 A great portion of this low-lying plain appeared to be under 
 water during a part of the )-ear. We shortly came upon 
 a second swamp of black, oozy mud, with numerous hippo 
 marks, and then another Giryama clearing in thick forest. 
 This thick forest continued, with small knolls and hollows, 
 until we emerged upon another small lake with bush, low 
 and forest-covered hills in the distance. This lake was a mere 
 shallow swamp, covered all over with excellent short green 
 grass, upon which hippos appeared to feed largely, judging 
 from their numerous marks. More forest and clearings 
 followed, the soil being of a fine friable chocolate description, 
 then a fine flat valley planted with castor-oil and Indian corn. 
 Beyond this was a large, low-lying grass plain, with another 
 swamp in the centre ; we crossed this by a primitive native 
 bridge, from which I inferred that the water was permanent. 
 On the other side of the low hill we joined Mr. Anstruther's 
 road again. Continuing through open forest land, with light- 
 coloured sandy soil, we came upon }'et another swamp, where 
 we camped in some old huts, the remains of the former run- 
 away-slave settlement of Merikano, at 12.30 p.m., five hours'
 
 n8 TRAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 march from Jclori. The water in the swamp was as black 
 as ink, but thirsty men are not difficult to please, so we drank 
 it willini,d)'. The tea made from it looked like black paint ! 
 
 We remained here for the rest of the day, and with water 
 (such as it was) close by, and my tent under a large tree, it 
 was pleasant enough. The forest at night was intensely 
 quiet — there appeared to be no game about, and no night 
 birds. There was a very heavy dew at night. Next morning 
 1 continued along Mr. Anstruther's road, through open forest 
 land, and still noticed a considerable amount of light green 
 moss hanging from the branches of the trees. Guinea-grass 
 was very plentiful along the road. The soil along here 
 varied from black clay to friable black or red loam. 
 Gradually the forest became more open, and we emerged upon 
 a large flat plain at a higher level than the surrounding 
 country, which I could survey for a considerable distance. 
 It consisted of bush and forest as far as the e}-e could see : 
 this was looking north-west over the Sabaki. On the eastern 
 side rose a solitary low hill. 
 
 This plain had a sandy, red soil, which was covered with 
 grass and scattered clumps of stunted-looking trees, also with 
 small bushes bearing a }'cllow berry resembling a very minute 
 orange, but poisonous. We descended by a steep zigzag 
 path. Once in the forest the soil was again a fine black loam. 
 I thought it would be well worth while to keep Anstruther's 
 road cleared b)' a small annual pa}'ment to the different tribes 
 through whose land it passed. It had been cut at so much 
 expense that it was a pity to let it revert to forest, since it 
 afforded very convenient access to Makongeni. Its only 
 drawback was that some parts of it ^^•ere under \\ater in the 
 wet season. 
 
 Immediately at the foot of the descent we came upon 
 another swamp which I had observed from above, quite 
 surrounded by forest. It evidently floods the road in wet 
 weather, rendering this part impassable ; there is, however, 
 another path which is then used b)- the people. This flooded 
 portion of the road is called M'Lengo-Baya, meaning literally, 
 " bad wa)'." 
 
 Here I first saw some Gallas gathering the edible fruit or
 
 VI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 119 
 
 seeds of a water-lily which grew extensively in all the lakes 
 I had passed. The other side of the lake consisted of 
 small open bush and scrub, amongst which I noticed a good 
 deal of cacti and aloes. Jubah had once more lost the way ! 
 
 We afterwards came upon M'Lengo-Baya, at a distance of 
 two and a half hours from Merikano, and rested there for 
 about half-an-hour. M'Lengo-Baya was a cluster of huts 
 inhabited by a community of Watoro, /. e. runaway slaves 
 from the coast who were settled here, and also at another 
 village further away, which I visited later on. Beyond M'Lengo- 
 Baya the country was of a very flat and open character for 
 some distance, with the same black cotton soil. The way 
 now led through a belt of forest with a good deal of cacti, and 
 further on came out upon a very extensive half-dried swamp, 
 covered almost entirely with succulent short grass, and a 
 species like Mauritius grass. This lake Jubah made us 
 cross twice, and as the water in the centre was fully 3 feet 
 deep and the mud black and oozy, I had to take off my boots 
 and socks each time to wade across. We met more Galla people 
 here, gathering water-lily seeds, and one of the Wasania, who 
 bolted, leaving his drum behind him. 
 
 I may remark here (the matter being, as I shall eventually 
 show, an important one), that I paid especial attention to 
 these numerous lakes and swamps, and besides the personal 
 observations which my subsequent and frequent journeyings 
 to and fro enabled me to make, I ascertained that these 
 marshes and lakes along the Sabaki have water in them on 
 an average nine months in the year ; this year they had been 
 constantly flooded, the rain-fall having been much beyond the 
 average. These remarks also apply to the northern bank. 
 
 The country surrounding this lake had a black cotton soil, 
 and was covered with scrubby bush and grass ; then we 
 passed through forest with a good deal of cacti and aloes, the 
 country being very flat, and the soil changing to a friable red. 
 Then came open bush with clayey white soil, another small 
 swamp covered with grass, more heavy forest, and eventually 
 the Sabaki — the first time the main road approached the 
 river since leaving Jelori. The banks were here very low, 
 and looking across to the opposite side — the north bank —
 
 I20 TKAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA CfCAP. 
 
 the country, as far as could be seen, was all flat forest land. 
 I wanted to cross over, but liaba informed me it was not 
 safe, owing to the crocodiles in the river. We camped at 
 noon, the weather having been very hot all day. 
 
 There was a heavy shower at night, and next morning was 
 cloudy and drizzling, the rain becoming heavier later on. The 
 Wanika were grumbling a good deal, having got soaked 
 during the night. We struck camp at 7.30 a.m., and entered 
 a very heavy forest — the heaviest I had yet gone through — 
 with large trees and dense, luxuriant undergrowth. This 
 forest extended on both sides of the Sabaki, which the road 
 now followed continuously to Makongeni. The Sabaki is 
 here a fairly large stream with low banks, flowing through a 
 flat country. 
 
 About five miles below Makongeni I noticed several groups 
 of Hyphaine palms, from which the runaway slaves obtain 
 their toddy, generally cutting off the heads of the numerous 
 tapering branches. I also observed a good many aloes 
 growing along the banks. The soil in the forest was most 
 excellent, a fine black to fine chocolate loam. The country 
 was very flat, and here and there glimpses were caught through 
 openings of the Sabaki, which was now becoming a fine wide 
 river with a steady full current. The opposite bank was very 
 low and covered with forest. Numerous groups of Hyphasne 
 palms were passed, and w^e saw some of the Watoro drawing 
 toddy from the trees. 
 
 We now came upon a bend of the river, with very high 
 crumbling banks fully 20 feet above the present water level ; 
 the flat river-bed was here composed of curious stone slabs, 
 in formation very like large artificial paving-stones in red 
 sandstone and slaty rock. Some of these, loosened by the 
 action of the water, looked as if they had been artificially cut. 
 
 I noticed some very fine tamarind trees, and now came 
 upon the first signs of Watoro cultivation, consisting of 
 bananas, beans, dry rice, and tobacco, growing in flat rich 
 countr)' which was cleared forest land, the soil being black 
 and chocolate loam. Judging by old flood-marks, the Sabaki 
 must rise fully 8 to 10 feet in the wet season. Continuing, I 
 passed through a good deal of runawa)'-slavc cultivation
 
 VI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 which appeared to consist of the usual coast prockicts. After 
 traversing several abandoned clearings and heavy forest with 
 some tamarind trees and a good many aloes, on turning a 
 corner I came upon the stockade of Makongeni, the first of a 
 series constructed in the beginning of 1890 by Captain Lugard 
 up the Sabaki and on into the Ukamba country as far as 
 Dagoreti, 350 miles from the coast. It was protected partly 
 by a stone wall and partly by a palisade, and situated fully 
 30 feet above the level of the river. 
 
 The runaway-slave settlements were scattered about the 
 country on both sides of the Sabaki, which was very broad 
 here, but also very shallow, and easily crossed, the depth of 
 water in the dry season being about 3 to 3?r feet. The 
 Watoro, or runaway slaves, are fugitives from their owners 
 at the coast ; they have settled in these parts, and associated 
 themselves together for protection up the Sabaki. As I have 
 stated, their first settlement was Jelori, from which the efforts 
 of their Arab owners to recapture them forced them to retire 
 to Merikano, and eventually to their present settlements. 
 Here they had been successful in resisting every attempt at 
 recapture by their former masters. They were practically 
 free men, residing beyond the ten-mile zone of Zanzibar terri- 
 tory, only within which the law of slavery had force ; but 
 they suffered from the disability of being shut off from 
 access to the coast markets for the sale of their surplus pro- 
 duce, and of being debarred from obtaining employment, as 
 their appearance on the coast would render them liable to 
 recapture. Captain Lugard initiated a scheme, to which the 
 Arab masters under certain conditions agreed, enabling the 
 runaways to work out their redemption for a very small sum 
 of money, and to resort to the coast unmolested for this pur- 
 pose, but only a comparatively small number had hitherto 
 availed themselves of the privilege — either considering them- 
 selves sufficiently free as they were, or not caring enough for 
 the abstract dignity of freedom to take extra trouble to obtain 
 it. The country round their settlement looked most luxuriant, 
 as the forest had been cleared and planted by them (the 
 Watoro). 
 
 We were received with a salute of guns by the four askaris
 
 122 TRA\'ELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 stationed here by the Company, and having duly responded, 
 some nf the slaves came out to meet me, shaking and kissing 
 my hand. Having sent for the head-men I pitched my camp 
 some little distance from the stockade near the river, where 
 the bank was 20 feet high, and I had a fine view down the 
 Sabaki, both sides of which, further awa}', were covered with 
 heavy jungle. Food was plentiful and cheap, tliere being rice, 
 bananas, and plantains in abundance; Indian corn at three 
 pice a kibaba, and beans at two pice a kibaba, could be 
 obtained in any quantity, and formed the principal food of 
 the Watoro. 
 
 Four of the principal slave head-men, accompanied by a 
 good many armed followers, arrived after breakfast and gave 
 me a regular fusillade of welcome, which my people returned. 
 I instructed Jubah bin Fukir to inform the runaways that I had 
 come to open up the Sabaki river district, and especially to 
 visit them. I first spoke about Suliman's slaves, of whom I 
 believed there were a good number here, offering to take back 
 those who chose to return, and telling them of the Company's 
 intention to give them their freedom if they would return to 
 the plantations, where they would work as free men and be 
 paid for their labour. 
 
 They all listened with great attention, and the principal 
 head-man — b}- name M'Soma — replied that he would tell the 
 slaves what I had said, but at present they were scattered 
 all over the place. 
 
 I next touched upon the more important object of my visit, 
 I informed them of my intention, subject to the approval of 
 the Company, to establish an experimental plantation at 
 Jclori, with a view to gradually opening up the district for 
 better cultivation, and that I proposed growing different 
 new products there in order to introduce them by degrees 
 amongst them. I pointed out that there would be work avail- 
 able, for regularly-paid daily wages ; and I put it to the 
 head-men whether it .would not be better for them to come 
 down to Jelori, within reach of markets and civilization, and 
 where land could be cultivated peacefully and money earned, 
 than to continue living their present vagabond life away in 
 the bush. The head-men replied that the same words had
 
 VI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 been spoken to them when Mr. Bell-Smith and the Liwali of 
 Melindi were there, but that they feared the x'\rabs— that they 
 had first settled at Jelori, and then the Arabs drove them to 
 Merikano, and thence to this place — but that now the Com- 
 pany had come and would protect them, they were willing to 
 come down to Jelori, and would abide by what I had told 
 them. Lastly, the head-men said that they would call a con- 
 ference of all the slaves next day, and let me know the result 
 in the evening. 
 
 The head-men informed me that there was a good deal of 
 sickness prevalent amongst them at present, three men having 
 died the day before. It appeared to be a very sudden kind 
 of fever and dysenter}-, and I gave M'Soma a suppl\- of 
 chlorodyne with careful instructions how to use it. I under- 
 stood that there were fully 500 runaway slaves here, if not 
 more. 
 
 It was very hot all day, with a cold wind at night, that 
 made the Wanika crouch closely round my tent. 
 
 On the morning of September 27 I went off with the two 
 head-men and Ramazan, and a M'Toro as guide, to \'isit the 
 shambas and villages on the other side of the Sabaki. I Mas 
 carried across the river below the stockade, where it was very 
 wide and shallow, and flowed over a sandy bed. The soil 
 near the river was a black loam ; further inland it was 
 very rich, generally a chocolate loam. The land was exten- 
 sively cultivated by the Watoro, chiefly with Indian corn 
 and beans, patches of rice, millet, and pumpkins, and some 
 bananas. I visited two large and substantial villages, the 
 inhabitants of which looked well-fed and contented, and 
 everywhere the people welcomed me most cordially. I ob- 
 tained a sample of tobacco from the head-man of the first 
 \illage. It was sun-dried and rolled up in twist, and coiled 
 round in a spiral strand like a rope ; it looked coarse and 
 strong, and was used for chewing. I ascertained on inquiry 
 that the Watoro made no use of the " N'konge " aloes, of 
 which there \vas a very great deal between Jelori and 
 Makongeni. 
 
 I waded across the Sabaki on my return, and in the after- 
 noon had a second shauri with the Watoro head-men. The
 
 124 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 same head-man, M'Soma, accompanied as before by a large 
 number of armed slaves, came to acquaint me with the result 
 of the discussion they had held that morning. They told mc 
 that they had talked over my words, and that whenever I 
 wished them to come and settle at Jelori they would do so, 
 but they now had crops, etc. to reap, otherwise they were 
 ready to come at once. I told them I would communicate 
 this reply to the Administrator, and that when I established 
 a shaniba at Jelori I would either come up to them myself or 
 send them word. I had another conversation with them on 
 the advantages of civilized life compared with their present 
 fugitive condition, and they gave me the impression of being 
 sincere in their promises. 
 
 I gave the head-man, M'Soma, a second supply of Vnedicine 
 (chlorodyne and cough medicine), and went shortly afterwards, 
 accompanied by him and others, to visit the Watoro villages 
 on the south side of the Sabaki. Proceeding through a large, 
 flat, cultivated tract of country, with excellent soil, I noticed 
 especially a back-water from the Sabaki running inland for a 
 considerable distance, the water from which, it struck me, 
 could easily be conducted over the adjoining land, and utilized 
 for wet rice cultivation. I went into two villages, both large 
 and well kept, there being thus four villages of runaway 
 slaves, two on each side of the river. The population on this 
 side, as furnished to me by their head-man, was two hundred 
 men and four hundred women and children — six hundred in 
 all ; but the population fluctuated very much. Everywhere 
 I was welcomed with the greatest cordiality, men and women 
 in all the villages pressing forward to shake my hand — the 
 women giving quite a particular grasp of their own. I had 
 several shauris with the people, who were keenly interested 
 in hearing of my mission to them and of the Company's great 
 desire to see this district opened up. That the Watoro would 
 be an important factor in such development there could be 
 no doubt ; they were splendid workers, as I afterwards proved. 
 The Watoro expressed their utter ignorance of the countr}' up 
 the river, and on m)' inquiring the reason, the head-man said 
 they were afraid of the Gallas, who, he declared, seized their 
 people w hen the)- got the chance and sold them as slaves ;
 
 VI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 125 
 
 they therefore did not venture to go beyond their own settle- 
 ments, and when I asked for a couple of slaves to come with 
 me to carry a supply of food for my porters, they said they 
 were afraid. They told me that the country above here was 
 all bush, and that Captain Lugard had marched along the 
 banks of the river. They however knew the Giryama country 
 well, and offered to furnish me with guides to it if required. 
 
 There were further difficulties awaiting me respecting my 
 proposed journey up the river. On my return to camp, the 
 four askaris refused to come further, and I sent them back to 
 Melindi with letters to Mr. Anstruther reporting their conduct. 
 Then my Wanika porters followed suit, begging me not to 
 take them further ; they argued that they did not know on 
 leaving home that they were coming so far, saying that 
 another time they would follow me anywhere. Well, the 
 poor fellows had certainly done well so far, and they had 
 come (for them) an exceedingly long way ; so I told them to 
 stop here while I went up the river for one day with the five 
 Melindi porters. They said that they were quite willing to 
 go to Takaungu with me. 
 
 I had reason to believe that old Jubah bin Fukir was to be 
 thanked for all this. I was sure he had been frightening the 
 people, for he was an arrant old coward, terrified for his life 
 both of the Masai and the Gallas, and he had been a hindrance 
 to me all through. The Melindi porters, at all events, were 
 ready to go anywhere, and Selim and Ramazan were invalu- 
 able men, ready to go wherever I wanted and to turn their 
 hands to anything. 
 
 I was thus able on this occasion, owing to the foregoing 
 circumstances, to proceed only about fifteen miles above 
 Makongeni, but I soon afterwards had opportunities of seeing 
 more of the country, which will be described further on. My 
 last night at Makongeni was an extremely cold one, so cold 
 that my Wanika and other people outside were unable to 
 sleep. In the morning there was a heavy white mist every- 
 where, and I could see my breath in vapour. It continued 
 cold until the sun rose. 
 
 I started at 7 a.m. for my one day's trip up the river, 
 taking only the two head-men, my servants, Selim and
 
 126 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Ramazati, and tlie five Mclindi porters, leaving my bed, table, 
 etc., behind in order to travel as lightly as possible. We first 
 passed through a large flat area of cultivated land, with an 
 excellent and rich soil ; I noticed some patches of tobacco, 
 most luxuriant in appearance. 
 
 A M'Toro, who had come to show us the way, left us at 
 the edge of the clearings, telling us there was only one path 
 into the interior, and that we could not miss it. I was agree- 
 ably surprised to find a road of any sort, as I had half expected 
 we should have to cut our way through the bush. The path 
 we now followed (going we knew not where) was fairly 
 good, and led us first through forest with excellent black 
 loamy soil, then through open grass glades and dry scrubby 
 bush. Beyond this we again entered heavy forest — the soil a 
 rich chocolate loam — passing next through a great deal of 
 very dense cactus jungle, beyond which were grass glades, 
 surrounded by low hills covered with bush. We were now 
 following the course of the Sabaki, here a fine placid stream 
 with a sandy bed ; the opposite bank was likewise covered 
 with fine forest. The river winds a great deal, and on the 
 several occasions when a view was obtained it was generally 
 disappearing round a bend. The current was gentle, and in 
 view of the very gradual rise nature of the adjacent lands from 
 Jelori upward, it was apparent that the Sabaki's large volume 
 of water could be utilized without the slightest difficulty for 
 irrigation purposes. The views obtained up and down the 
 river were very beautiful, and the calm winding stream 
 peacefully flowing without a ripple, through dense vegetation, 
 set off by the brilliant white sand of the river-banks, made a 
 really charming landscape. 
 
 Further on, after passing through dense cactus growth^ we 
 came upon another large Watoro clearing upon the river, the 
 soil of which was excellent. Some Hypha:;ne palms, all 
 tapped for toddy, were growing here. I suspected that, 
 notwithstanding their assertions of ignorance, the Makongeni 
 peojile knew more of the country up the ri\-er than they 
 pretended. We continued through open bush and euphorbia 
 and open grass glades to a newly-made Giryama clearing, 
 the heaped-U{3 bush being piled ready for burning, and the
 
 VI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 127 
 
 edges of the clearing protected by a fence of cut cactus. I 
 noted the fact of this new clearing particularly, as evidence 
 that the north-east rains of October and November were 
 depended upon for cultivation as well as the south-west 
 monsoon in the early part of the year, and that the former 
 were evidently sufficient for growing a second crop. 
 
 I obtained a guide from a small Wasania village which we 
 passed, and went on through large open grass glades and a 
 very dense cactus jungle, where I saw a good many aloes, and 
 then emerged upon an open grass plain where there was 
 another Giryama clearing, planted with Indian corn, castor- 
 oil, and a little tobacco. The path here was quite lost — 
 overgrown in the rich green grass, which, as the people said, 
 " had killed the road." We passed through several low flat 
 valleys, the soil being a very black stiff loam. These valleys 
 are all flooded during the wet season, and when I returned 
 here later on, on other duties, I found the country a sheet of 
 water from 5 to 6 feet deep. The Wasania guide now left 
 us, telling us there was only one road, but we managed to 
 miss it further on, and followed what was probably a game 
 track, continuing in a south-westerly direction and losing all 
 sight of the river. This track led us through open bush and 
 grassy valleys, each surrounded by rising ground covered with 
 bush. 
 
 Beyond, there was open grass land, and in the centre a small 
 lake with many water-lilies, and a good many water-fowl (wild 
 ducks and geese). Here the soil was also a very black, stiff 
 loam. The water in this lake was good, and the supply 
 appeared to be constant. Passing through dense thorny scrub 
 combined with aloes and cactus jungle which met above our 
 heads, we found walking very difficult ; here and there a path 
 branched off, showing the country to be inhabited by Gallas, 
 Giryamas, and Wasania — the last are a hunting tribe. Beyond 
 this lay an extensive grass plain, very flat, the grass short and 
 good but dry, and burnt in places by the Wasania. I saw a 
 great number of buffalo tracks ; these animals must abound 
 here in the wet season. 
 
 The country now traversed was chiefly a large flat grass 
 plain, with a few solitary trees, some scattered clumps of cactus
 
 128 tRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 and thorny bush, and in the distance low hills. The soil was 
 chiefl)' black loam, lieyond was another jungle of dense 
 thorn}- bush and cacti, traversed in every direction by tracks of 
 large game. Progress here was terribly difficult, as we had to 
 crawl through the cacti and bush, which extended for some 
 distance. It was very hard on the porters, who were com- 
 plaining of the heat and asking for water ; so leaving them to 
 await my return, I pushed on with Ramazan and Jubah to try 
 and find the Sabaki again if possible. After toiling through 
 thorny bush for some time we came upon open country, and as 
 Jubah was lagging behind, we left him here to mark the inlet 
 into the bush, and so guide us back to our halting-place ; but 
 when left alone he got frightened and went back to the porters, 
 Ramazan and I went on a long way over a very barren plain, 
 with short grass and scattered bush and trees ; but there 
 seemed no end to it, nor could we see any signs of the Sabaki. 
 We therefore turned back to where we had left Jubah, but as 
 he had deserted his post we could not find the entrance into 
 the bush, but wandered about for a long time trying to dis- 
 cover and retrace our pathway. The situation began to get 
 serious, so I fired off my gun, and had the satisfaction of 
 hearing the shot replied to a long way off. This was a great 
 relief to our growing anxiety, and we pushed back in the 
 direction of the sound, and at last found the porters again. It 
 was now two o'clock in the afternoon, exceedingly hot, and we 
 had not a drop of water, after having been steadily on the 
 tramp since seven in the morning. 
 
 Selim now reported that he had been exploring during our 
 absence, and he thought he had seen the Sabaki, judging from 
 some big trees in the distance. We went back, following Selim 
 by another path, along which we continued for some distance 
 over the same kind of country — a large grass plain, with cactus- 
 growth and creepers — and then, the porters being " dead beat," 
 I sent on Selim, Jubah, and Ramazan to explore further. 
 
 They returned after a while, sa)-ing that there was no sign 
 of the river, but that they had come upon dense thorny scrub 
 impossible to penetrate, and here Selim had heard the growl 
 of a lion close by him as he passed. I told the exhausted 
 {jorters there was nothing for it but to go back — it was a strange
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 129 
 
 country to all of us, and without a guide it was nobody's fault 
 if we had lost our way. These Swahilis are very willing people, 
 and all they said was, Kzvcle, kivele, Bwana — " True, true, master," 
 and off we set again. We had a long hard tramp over the 
 road we had come, still missing the path many times, until at 
 last we got to the lake at about 4 p.m. Never did water taste 
 sweeter to us all than the half-tepid water from this swamp. 
 I had breakfast here, and I thought I should never finish 
 drinking ! 
 
 In about an hour we started again, and after missing the 
 path several times reached the Sabaki, and camped for the 
 night on the bank. I had a delightful bathe in the river. My 
 cook — who was in great form all day, swaggering about and 
 saying he was a man now, having been in an unknown country 
 — tried to dissuade me from going into the water, as there 
 were many crocodiles here. I said, " Yes, if I was eaten there 
 would be no more rupees ! " " Ah," he answered, " it is not that ; 
 there will be no more good Bwana." Altogether this was the 
 hardest day's tramp I had ever gone through ; not counting 
 the time we halted by the lake, we had been fully nine hours 
 steadily on the march, part of it crawling on our hands and 
 knees. 
 
 This night I roughed it in earnest, m>' chair being the only 
 luxury of civilization that I possessed. I tied the lantern to 
 the branch of a tree, and ate my dinner off the back of my 
 writing-board, which made a capital dining-table. My cook 
 was a first-rate servant, and the dinner he was able to give one 
 in the bush was wonderful. The people lay on the ground as 
 usual, close to my tent. In the morning I heard a drum and 
 the sound of voices, which indicated that a village was not far 
 off At seven we started on the return journey to Makongeni, 
 passing over the same country as yesterday, except that when 
 near the slave settlement we struck into another path and 
 passed a small lake, covered with the usual aquatic plants. 
 We also met two narrow-headed Gallas. These people seem 
 alwa)'s to carr\' spears.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 MAKONGKNI TO TAKAUNGU vid FULADOVO — THE GIRYAMA 
 
 COUNTRY 
 
 The Journey to the Coast^Vicissitudes of Native Family Life— Slave 
 Traffic amongst the Native Tribes — Thorny Jungles— Mangea Hill — 
 Heat and Thirst — An Old Camp of Lugard's— Collapse of the Wanika 
 — The White Man an Object of Curiosity — Masai Raids— Agriculture 
 among the Wa-(.iryama — Extensive F'orests — Fuladoyo — Town of 
 M'Tanganiko — Wanika Settlers— The Liwali of Takaungu — India- 
 rul)h{M- \'incs -Arri\c at Takaungu. 
 
 Leaving a description of the Sabaki district until later, I 
 will continue the account of my tour to the coast. 
 
 I now proposed to start on my journey to Takaungu, and 
 .sent for the Watoro head-man M'Soma to ask him to supply 
 me with guides. He agreed to do so, but said there was 
 another runaway settlement on the road called Fuladoyo, and 
 that he would give me two men to guide me to that place, 
 where I could obtain others to take me on to Takaungu. 
 The distance to Takaungu could be accomplished by a man 
 without a load in two days, but with porters it would take 
 three days. The distance to Fuladoyo was apparently six to 
 eight hours' march, and there was no water to be found before 
 arriving there. So I bought a supply of native gourds at 
 five pice each to carry \\'ater. 
 
 In the evening Ramazan gave me an extraordinary and 
 romantic piece of information. He had just heard that his 
 wife, whom he had left at Mombasa, was living in one of the 
 villages here ! — she had been kidnaj^ped in his absence, sold 
 as a slave, and had run away to this place. She came to me 
 later on and told me her stor}'. She and two other women 
 
 130
 
 CH. VH TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 had gone to see a dance on the mainland close to Mombasa, 
 at a place called Jomvu, and there they had been seized by 
 some runaway slaves, who had stolen all their jewellery and 
 clothes, and then sold them, except one woman who escaped, 
 to some Wanika who intended selling them again to the 
 Gallas. En route the two women managed to run away to 
 Makongeni, and had been here for the last month. Such are 
 some of the vicissitudes of native family life in East Africa ! 
 
 Ramazan wished to take his wife (who was a freed slave) 
 back with him to Magarini, so I arranged that she should 
 come with us next day. 
 
 That people could be kidnapped within sight of Mombasa 
 was a little startling. I was not aware before that the 
 Wanika trafficked in slaves, but apparently they do, buying 
 slaves from the runaways, who, although themselves fugitives, 
 are read}/ enough to do a little business in kidnapping and 
 selling others. The Wanika re-sell them to the Gallas, who 
 keep them for working in cultivating their fields. The 
 Gallas, I understood, will pay two cows for a slave. 
 
 The night being again cold, my Wanika slept just outside 
 my tent, and kept up a lively conversation most of the night, 
 while just behind them, Ramazan's wife was relating her story 
 again to her husband and others, until a very advanced hour. 
 The discussion began again very early in the morning — a 
 state of things by no means conducive to sleep. I was at 
 last compelled to remonstrate. In the morning I sent Selim 
 to fetch the other woman who had escaped with Ramazan's 
 wife, as I decided to take her away also and send her back to 
 Mombasa. We left at 7.30 a.m. on September 30, following 
 Mr. Anstruther's road for the first half-hour, and then striking 
 off to the right, through forest land, and past two fine fields 
 of tobacco ; the leaves were large and luxuriant, with thick, 
 strongly-marked mid-ribs. We then crossed a half-dried 
 stream with pools of stagnant water, and as there would be 
 no water further on, we filled our bottles here, the porters 
 having neglected to do so in the morning ; when drinking my 
 tea at breakfast later on I found the water decidedly nasty, it 
 having a most unpleasant taste. We met several Gallas, all 
 carrying large-bladed spears. The forest gradual!)- decreased
 
 132 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 as I advanced, beinc]; succeeded by open f^lades and a swamj). 
 The path next led through dense cactus and thorny under- 
 growth, which it was \ery difficult for the porters to get 
 through. 0])en bush succeeded, then more cacti and aloes, 
 the red soil being intermixed with gravel and red sandstone, 
 initil it became quite stony. The bush became heavier and 
 thicker, with aloes still very numerous. Walking was very 
 difficult, the path being quite overgrown with cacti, which 
 played havoc with the porters' skins and my clothes. After 
 passing through a good deal of this kind of ground the forest 
 began again. The soil here was a light-coloured loam, inclin- 
 ing to clay. Passing over a succession of low ridges and 
 hollows, after three and a half hours' almost continuous 
 scrambling through thick cactus and thorny bush, we emerged 
 upon an extensive flat grass plain, sighting a solitary low hill 
 right ahead called Mangea. This plain was of a yellowish 
 clay soil, which improved in quality as we proceeded ; it 
 w as sparsely covered with scattered clumps of dwarf bush, 
 w ith frequent groups of larger trees and better grass. 
 
 At noon I halted for breakfast, and to give the porters 
 a much-needed rest, for it had been very hot and the work 
 hard so far. At one o'clock we started off again, and for 
 an hour traversed much the same description of country. 
 We w ere now abreast of Mangea Hill, about 300 or 400 feet 
 high, and covered with bush and grass. It has a large rock 
 in its centre, and forms a conspicuous landmark in the midst 
 of the extensive undulating plain. We then came on more 
 prickly bush and cacti, the soil below being very w hite and 
 sand)'. Keeping steadily due south, the appearance of the 
 country gradually improved, and there was now open forest 
 and thick undergrowth with a good porous red soil. I halted 
 for ten minutes to allow stragglers to come up. The heat 
 had been intense all day, and everybody had suffered much 
 from want of water, our store having been finished long ago. 
 I gave what remained in my water-bottle to one of my boys 
 and Ramazan's wife, and then waited behind to allow Selim, 
 who was assisting a lame Wanika porter, to come up, keeping 
 the second M'Toro guide with me. After a long time they 
 appeared. The porter, Hikombe b}- name, besides his load.
 
 VII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 133 
 
 was carrying a lot of Indian corn and tobacco which he had 
 bought on the way ; he was naturally dead beat. I ordered 
 the guide to take his load and rest for a short time longer, 
 giving Selim a cigarette, which he much enjoyed. When we 
 resumed our tramp we were miles behind the rest of the 
 people. From 7.30 till eleven we had been traversing heavy 
 cactus and thorny jungle ; from eleven to three (with an 
 hour's halt) travelling over a large open plain ; and since 
 three o'clock we had been in continuous forest. 
 
 We were now nearly at the end of Mangea Hill, and a 
 quarter of an hour afterwards we came upon thicker forest, 
 the trees of which were comparatively small. The soil was a 
 good friable red loam. Beyond this we followed a good road, 
 which I understood had been cut by Captain Lugard. The 
 country now became extremely level, and the trees much 
 larger, with still occasional cacti. 
 
 For the next three miles we continued through forest land 
 with occasional open glades, the undergrowth being replaced 
 by numerous lanky saplings growing thickly together. I 
 judged the rain-fall to be light, as, though we had now been 
 travelling down-hill for some time, there was hardly any trace 
 of wash observable ; the soil was of a rich black loam, the 
 land becoming now more level till we came out of the forest 
 on to an old fenced camp of Captain Lugard's, and into cul- 
 tivated country with many papaw trees and pineapples planted 
 along the roadside. We were now in the Giryama country, 
 and presently we met Jubah coming to meet me with water. 
 Further on we met some Giryamas tending a large flock of 
 goats, and shortly afterwards passed their village surrounded 
 by clearings ; then along a good path through the forest, 
 passing two more villages. This part of the country appeared 
 thickly populated ; the clearings and different villages being 
 divided from one another by uncleared forest, paths diverging 
 to them in every direction. The soil was excellent everywhere. 
 
 I pushed on with Selim and one porter, having been obliged 
 to leave the lame porter Bikombe to come on behind with the 
 M'Toro guide ; and on nearing a fourth village I came upon 
 all my people quite knocked up. Ramazan told me that on 
 getting near a well— the first they had met since the
 
 •34 
 
 Tk.WKLS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 inf)rnin<^ — tlic>' all rushed for water and said the}' would die 
 if the)' had to i^o further ! I''u]adoyo was still two hours away, 
 so there was nothinj^ for it but to camp here for the night. 
 Accordingly I had m)' tent pitched just outside the village, 
 where I arrived at 6 p.m., and allowing for about three- 
 quarters of an hour's halt, we had been nearly ten hours on 
 the road. The Wanika had utterly collapsed — the want of 
 water seemed to try them more severely than the others ; and 
 
 \VA-UIKYAM.\.' 
 
 if it had nc^t been for them we should have been able to get 
 on to Fuladoyo that evening, as the Swahilis were all right. 
 As liikombe did not turn up, I sent a guide back to look for 
 him ; but finding next morning that he had not yet come in, 
 I left word w ith the Giryamas to send him on to Fuladoyo. 
 
 I was the first white man to visit that village, and was the 
 centre of much curiosity ; the Giryamas crowded round my 
 tent all the evening, watching my every action — especially
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 135 
 
 while at dinner. Eating with a knife and fork seemed quite 
 an exciting performance : every time I put my fork into my 
 mouth, they nudged each other and said, " Lot)k ! he is doing 
 it again." Dressing-time in the morning was most embarrass- 
 ing, the ladies especially being most interested in every detail 
 of my simple toilette — very trying to a modest and bashful 
 man ! 
 
 It had been terribly hot all da}-, and so I ordered Ramazan 
 
 A WA-GIKYAMA FAMILY. 
 
 to have everything in readiness to start at daylight next 
 morning. 
 
 I saw the Giryama village head-man in the morning and 
 explained the objects of my visit to him, and made him a 
 small present ; he told me that this part of the country was 
 called Mangea, after the hill. Leaving the village at 6.30 a.m. 
 we followed a good path through fine forest, the lay of the 
 land being gently undulating. Numerous villages and culti-
 
 136 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 vated clcariiii^s were scattered here and there, the lar<(er trees 
 bein^ left staiuHn^. Cattle were comparatively scarce, fear of 
 Masai raiders deterring the Wa-Giryama from keeping large 
 herds, but they possess large flocks of goats which graze over 
 the clearings when the crops are harvested, and thus a great 
 deal of what was once forest is now grass and scrub. The 
 soil was everywhere excellent. 
 
 The products cultivated by the Wa-Giryama appeared to 
 be— 
 
 Mairje, Very extensively grown both for food and sale. 
 
 Castor-oil, grown in patches amongst the maize; it grew well. 
 
 lyeajis and Pulse were also a great deal grown. 
 
 Tobacco grew most luxuriantly. The flower was white, and 
 the leaves I noticed were stripped from the stalk, which Wa.'-i 
 left on the ground. Here, as in Jelori, they allowed the plant 
 to grow too high ; if it Vvas topped the leaves would be larger. 
 
 Tomatoes and Sweet Potatoes grew well, and were largely 
 cultivated. 
 
 Kach village, t observed, had a substantial hut, generally 
 the largest in the. place, in which the harvested maize was 
 stored. The country appeared Well populated, and paths led 
 off to the villages in every direction. In one hour and a half 
 I passed seVen villages on the path itself. In one 1 noticed a 
 solitary pepper plant (capsicum). Guinea-grass was growing 
 everywhere ; it is always an indication of a rich soil. 
 
 The path continued through a succession of clearings 
 which were divided by belts of forest, and reaching some 
 rising ground I obtained a good view of the country lying 
 eastward towards the coast. All was apparently forest land 
 and very flat. An hour and a half after starting we passed 
 through a large, cultivated valley, surrounded by low hills 
 covered with forest, with a small sluggish stream flowing 
 through it. I noticed there was a much heavier wash here, 
 indicating a greater rain-fall. Ascending the ridge, I saw 
 Fuladoyo lying in the valley below, and arrived there at 
 8.30 a.m. 
 
 Fuladoyo, named after a low hill close by, was another 
 large Watoro or runaway settlement, with neat, well-kept 
 house.s, and a good deal of cultivation surrounding it.
 
 VII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 137 
 
 Bananas, cassava, and tobacco were all growing abundantly 
 in a good red loamy soil. Rice, I may remark, I saw only at 
 Jelori and Makongeni. 
 
 I paid off my two guides from the latter place, taking two 
 more on from Fuladoyo and starting off again at 9.30 a.m. 
 We continued due south over low hilly country with scattered 
 Giryama villages and clearings, and then along a dry rocky 
 water-course. Eventually the forest became thinner and the 
 country more broken, and I crossed the dry bed of a third 
 water-course with pools of water in it, the bed consisting of 
 large slabs of rock. There was good grass in the glades, and 
 on them large flocks of goats with a few cattle were grazing. 
 
 At 11.30 a.m. I came on two water-holes carefully fenced 
 round ; the water, though muddy, was very refreshing to us all. 
 Passing over .some steep low hills and valleys beyond, I 
 noticed that rain-wash was more marked, as evidenced by 
 the channels cut in the soil by the rush of water in the wet 
 season. The country throughout was thickly populated, and 
 I had passed so far fourteen villages on my way. This hilly 
 country continued till about noon, when the land became 
 more undulating, with fine wide valleys extensively cultivated 
 with the usual products, maize (just harvested) and castor- 
 oil. In one of these we crossed another small river, the fourth, 
 with a very deep bed, and with a rapid current. 
 
 The soil of the valleys was a rich chocolate, intermixed 
 with patches of red loam. 
 
 At 12.30 I halted near a large fenced pond to have 
 breakfast whilst waiting to allow my porters to come up ; the 
 lame porter Bikombe had rejoined me at Fuladoyo, and I 
 hired a man from there to carry his load. 
 
 Starting off again at two o'clock we passed through some 
 beautifully fertile country with an abundance of luxuriant 
 guinea-grass, the soil a red to chocolate-coloured loam. For 
 the next two hours we continued through forest land with 
 scattered Giryama clearings ; the amount of maize cultivated 
 about here must be very large, and the same may be said, in 
 a lesser degree, of castor-oil. 
 
 Emerging at last into a more open district we tra\'ersed 
 a fine park-like country with many grassy valleys, and after
 
 138 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 crossing a larger one with a brackish stream flowing through 
 it, found, on ascending the opposite ridge, that we had at last 
 arrived at M'Tanganiko. 
 
 M'Tanganiko is a small Swahili town, built on a ridge 
 surrounded by a few lanky coco-nut trees, and divided by a 
 deep valley from a ri\ er with a constant supply of good water. 
 Several Indian merchants reside here, and carry on a con- 
 
 NATIVKS 01-- M TANGANMKO. 
 
 siderable trade with the Wa-Giryama in maize, tobacco, and 
 gum-copal. I went through the town, crossing to the other 
 side of the valley where I camped near the river ; meeting no 
 end of women and children on the way carrying water from 
 it. I noticed that empty kerosene oil tins were used for this 
 purpose. I camped at 5.30 p.m., having been on the road 
 since 6.30 a.m. 
 
 My people informed me that Salim bin Hamisi, Liwali of
 
 VII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 139 
 
 TakaunLju, was at present at M'iani^aniko. He sent some of 
 his askaris to greet me, a|)okji;i/,inL;' for not coming" himself as 
 he had a sore leg ; and u ith man\- compliments presented me 
 with a sheep, a couple of fowls, and a lot of eggs. 
 
 There were a great many Wanika settled round here, and 
 some of m}' Wanika porters had relations — brothers, etc. — 
 amongst them. I was very glad of this, as I hoped they 
 would spread the news that I was employing Wanika as 
 paid labourers at Magarini. There was heavy rain during 
 the night, which was rather hard lines on m}' people after 
 their long tramp ; but the Wanika all slept in the village of 
 their tribesmen close b\'. 
 
 Next morning was still rain\'. I called on the Liwali, an 
 elderly Arab, possessing a large area of land in this district. 
 When I told him the object of my visit, and asked for his 
 help and assistance, he said that he was detained here on 
 business at present, but promised to meet me shortly at 
 Takaungu. I therefore returned to camp, and finding my 
 loads already packed I left immediately for Takaungu. I 
 crossed the river, which flows through a narrow^ fertile valley 
 u kh rich loam}' black soil — the vegetation, especially guinea- 
 grass, being most luxuriant — and then passed over a series of 
 low hills covered with grass and bush, everything looking very 
 green and luxuriant after the hea\y downpour of rain the 
 night before. 
 
 Marching was rather difficult, as the path simply went 
 straight up one hill and down the next. From their tops a 
 good view was obtained of the surrounding country, which 
 consisted of a succession of low hills and valleys covered 
 w^ith rich vegetation. The soil was excellent, a chocolate 
 loam. 
 
 On the left occasional glimpses were caught of what I 
 thought at this time was the river Kilifi, but afterwards learnt 
 was the N'Zovoni river. At 8.30 a.m. we descended to a 
 sandy back-water, with a good many mangroves, and sur- 
 rounded by low hills. We followed this for an hour, and 
 then, after ascending a steep bank, came upon an extensi\e 
 stretch of level and fertile countr}-, covered ever}'where with 
 low bush and grass, and here I obtained m\- first sight of
 
 r40 IKAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA CH. vii 
 
 iiKliarubbcr, a woody climber, a species o{ Landolp/iia,[^\'iy\\'\\v^ 
 extensively in the forests borderinj^ the coast. I passed vines 
 repeatedly as I went along, but none of those that I saw were 
 thicker than one inch in diameter. My guide told me that 
 although indiarubber existed around here in large quantities, 
 none of the vines were very large ; this I dare say is explained 
 by the absence of large trees in the bush. 
 
 After a short interval I came upon the regular coast 
 cultivation and shambas. Stretching away on every side 
 were flourishing fields of maize, cassava, and sweet potatoes, 
 with many houses surrounded by coco-nut and mango trees. 
 The soil everywhere varied from a fine chocolate to loamy 
 black. The country here may be described as a large plain 
 traversed by deep, narrow valleys. Although the country 
 appeared well populated, and everything seemed to thrive 
 luxuriantly, there was a considerable amount of uncleared 
 bush, amongst which small indiarubber vines grew plentifully ; 
 guinea-grass, too, was everywhere abundant. I crossed a 
 second back-water of the same description as the first, the 
 descent t(^ which, as well as the ascent from it, was very 
 abrupt. It took twenty minutes to cross. On the opposite 
 side was the same flat, fertile country as before, alternately 
 thick bush and cultivation, the latter chiefly sim-sim. 
 Takaungu was reached at noon, four and a half hours from 
 M'Tanfjaniko.
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 TAKAUNGU — ROKA — M'SHAKA IN THE INDIARUBBER 
 DISTRICT 
 
 Takaungu and its Chief Products — A Drunken Brawl — M'Narani — Kilifi 
 Bay — Cross to M'Tondoa — Wild Cotton — Thick Forest — Roka — Coral 
 Rock — M'Shaka — Among the Rubber Vines — Method and Time of 
 Collecting—The East African Rubber Trade. 
 
 I PITCHED my camp in the middle of the town, and was 
 immediately surrounded by a large crowd of people — indeed, 
 during my whole stay in the place there was generally a crowd 
 watching my doings, although they always had the politeness 
 to retire to a distance during my meals. A small boy, an 
 idiot, with an extraordinary resemblance to a monkey, was a 
 never-failing source of merriment to my Wanika, who were 
 in great spirits now that they were homeward bound. The 
 boy in question was a Wanika by birth ; his people had 
 wanted to kill him on account of his deformity, but the 
 Liwali had interposed and was now keeping him in the town. 
 My camp was under a tree near a large stone well, and my 
 people had the unaccustomed luxury of a roof over their 
 heads. I had got on wonderfully well with them, Zanzibari 
 porters and all ; my tent was made the depository of every- 
 body's private possessions — tobacco, Indian corn, rice, etc. — 
 and I found that by treating them with sympathy and kind- 
 ness it was easy to win their confidence and cheerful obedi- 
 ence. From the curiosity displayed by the inhabitants of 
 Takaungu, they were evidently not accustomed to seeing such 
 strange visitors as Europeans. 
 
 Takaungu is a large native town situated on a beautifully 
 winding narrow and shallow inlet of the sea, and has a 
 
 141
 
 142 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 considerable population, consisting of Swahilis, Arabs, and 
 Indians. The scenery looking seaward is \ery fine and 
 impressive. The town consists of a large number of houses, 
 built of red earth, and thatched with grass or coco-nut cad- 
 jans, many having small gardens enclosed by a high close 
 fence of metamah stalks, in which tobacco, pumpkins, etc., 
 are cultivated. There are two fine wells built of stone. Many 
 coco-nut trees were growing about, with a few groups of fan- 
 palms, and a small number of betel-nut palms. I traversed 
 the town throughout, and found it very large, with numerous 
 narrow streets ; I also visited the bazaar, where I saw a 
 
 SWAHILIWOMKN. 
 
 great many Indian shopkeepers and merchants. There was 
 also a quaint prison with battlements, from which one got 
 a good view of the town. 
 
 The appearance of the countr)- round about presented 
 much the same appearance as round Melindi — gently undu- 
 lating land, with low bu.sh and scattered baobab trees ; these, 
 however, were \ery much larger here. The cultivation was 
 all open, and the luxuriance of the guinea-grass testified 
 to the excellence of the .soil. There were a few mango 
 shambas, with some scattered coco-nut trees ; but the latter, 
 I was given to understand, did not thrive, growing well until 
 mature, when the\' became weakh' and died off. This may
 
 vili TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 143 
 
 be caused b}' want of care in cultivation ; coco-nuts will not 
 bear neglect, and a good many growing round here were 
 simply choked up with grass and bush. The coco-nuts grow- 
 ing in the town itself were better looked after, and though 
 certainly not so robust as those growing in the Melindi dis- 
 trict, yet they appearecl healthy enough. In some cases 
 the decay might be due to the roots coming in contact with 
 the coral rock below ; for, generally speaking, I saw no reason 
 why, with proper care and drainage, they could not be made 
 to thrive. The Liwali, Salim bin Hamisi, possessed, I believe, 
 only one coco-nut shamba, the rest of his property being all 
 under open cultivation. The chief crop here was undoubtedly 
 sim-sim. I traversed a considerable extent of land covered 
 with it, of excellent quality and vigorous appearance. The 
 first crop had been harvested, and the second was now grow- 
 ing, and was of an average height from 4 to 4I feet high. 
 Maize, Congo pea, beans, and pulse often being cultivated in 
 the same fields, the soil being of a good brown loam. 
 
 Taking into consideration the large area available, the 
 cultivation was comparatively small, large tracts of bush in- 
 tervening between the shambas. The baobab trees were 
 exceedingly large, the largest I had yet seen. 
 
 Apparently but little millet was grown, but the maize 
 cultivation was very large. I saw but few bananas, and those 
 sold in the town were of the large coarse variety. 
 
 The price of the various products was as follows — 
 
 Green coco-nuts ... i pice each. 
 
 Dry „ „ ... 6 „ 
 
 Bananas (bunch) ... 6 annas. 
 
 Sim-sim (sesame) ... 4 dols. to 5 dols. per gisla. 
 
 Indian corn ... 2 dols. per gisla. 
 
 Beans ... ... 3 dols. to 4 dols. per gisla. 
 
 Rice ... ... 10 rupees per konda. 
 
 N.B. — Only a small quantity was grown here by the 
 Wanika, the rest being imported from Mombasa. 
 
 Indiarubber ... i rupee per lb. 
 
 Gum-copal ... No information.
 
 144 TRAVKLS IN KAST AFRICA chak 
 
 The collection of the gum-copal is confined to Giryamas, who 
 brought it in for sale. 
 
 Besides the above, raggy {Elciisine coracand) was grown to a 
 limited extent. A large trade is carried on between Takaungu 
 and M'Tanganiko and the Gir}'ama country. Ivory is also 
 brought down from the interior by caravans. The path 
 between the two places is very bad, and there is no doubt that 
 good roads would do much to open up the country. Camels 
 were not used, but donkeys are principally employed as 
 transport animals. 
 
 I went out in the afternoon to visit the country to the 
 south of Takaungu, and was very much struck with its appear- 
 ance ; it can be described as a beautiful fertile plain. The 
 soil was excellent, of a free friable chocolate loam, with that 
 total absence of stone so characteristic of the coast lands. I 
 passed first through a small coco-nut shamba, the trees being 
 all )'oung and healthy, with sim-sim and sweet potatoes culti- 
 vated beneath. Then came another coco-nut shamba, the 
 trees also young, and planted about 30 feet apart ; I next 
 passed through a large field of beans and cassava, 
 
 I noticed a fine wild cotton plant {Gossypuun sp. — three- 
 pointed leaf, staple medium, large black seeds) growing in a 
 shamba ; and close b}- was a fine stone well with pulley and 
 bucket — the first I had seen, the usual method of drawing 
 water being with a baobab fruit calabash attached to a fibre 
 rope. Beyond this I passed a third and very extensive coco- 
 nut shamba, but the trees were all choked up with bush and 
 grass, bearing out my previous remark on this head. The 
 path now led through patches of bush, thriving fields of 
 cassava, beans, and sim-sim, mcjre neglected coco-nuts, and 
 some fine papaw trees and castor-oil plants. I next passed 
 through some extensixe cultivation of maize and sim-sim, 
 well weeded and cared for. The maize in some places was 
 between 6 and 7 feet high. 'J"he soil was so rich that 
 cleared land, if neglected, almost immediately reverted to 
 bush. I was now following the telegraph-line between 
 Melindi and Mombasa, and noticed many small rubber vines 
 in the bush as I passed b)'. .Shortl\- afterwards I came upon an 
 extensi\c fiat open plain v\ilh immense baobab trees; here
 
 vul TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 145 
 
 also was a large cultixated area with some fine mango planta- 
 tions. This beautiful lexel country, with its uniform rich soil 
 of a fine friable chocolate loam, is admirabh' adapted for the 
 plough, and with a better system of cultivation should yield 
 magnificent results. 
 
 I returned by another way, describing a complete circuit 
 over a large area of country, and was much impressed with 
 the appearance and fertility of the country, of which only 
 about one-third appeared to be cultivated. 
 
 It Was dark when I got back to camp, and late in the 
 evening, after dinner, I heard a tremendous row going on^ 
 Soon afterwards a man was brought to me streaming M'ith 
 blood ; he had been fighting with another man and was 
 badly wounded about the head. I washed and dressed his 
 Wounds, and told the people who had brought him to me 
 to take him and his antagonist before the cadi ; but they 
 only laughed, and said such fights were common amongst 
 them. They certain!}^ seemed a lawless lot. 
 
 I remained altogether two days at Takaungu, leaxing fur 
 Kilifi on the afternoon of October 4. The Wanika porter, 
 Bikombe, I left behind with some of his friends at M'Tanganiko; 
 he was too lame to keep up with us, so having paid off the 
 man hired in his place at Fuladoyo, I got a Wanika here \\ho 
 agreed to accompau)- me to Magarini. 
 
 I had to go through the town to get to the ba\', clown a 
 slippery and almost precipitous descent, which might have 
 been improved with very little trouble. We punted across 
 the shallow bay in a large canoe. The \ie\v from the uater, 
 looking up the precipitous shore to the town, with its red 
 hou.ses nestling among the coco-nut trees, was most pictur- 
 esque. The opposite bank was also high and steep, with the 
 same flat fertile country as round Takaungu. I travelled 
 along the telegraph line, below which an excellent road had 
 been cut, diverging now and again to look at the country on 
 either side. It \\'as all thick bush with the same rich loani}^ soil. 
 In half-an-hour we came upon scattered fields of sim-sim and 
 maize ; then, after more bush, arrived at M'Narani shamba, 
 situated on Kilifi Bay, which is about five miles from 
 Takaungu. M'Narani was a large shamba of open cultivation 
 
 L
 
 ly. TR.W'Kl.S IN EAST AP'RICA cHaP. 
 
 with numerous coco-nuts and some fine mango trees. A 
 substantial house had been erected here by the Company, 
 and closj b}' I found Hell-Smith, now in charge of this 
 district, camped under a large mango tree, where I joined 
 him. 
 
 The next day I spent quietly, and enjoyed the rest, the 
 first I had had since leav'ing Melindi. The Hemy Wright 
 happened to be anchored in the bay, and as she was going 
 to Mombasa, I took the opportunity of sending Ramazan's 
 wife and the other woman I had brought from Makongeni 
 by her, with a letter explaining the circumstances. 
 
 Kilifi Bay is a long winding inlet with high precipitous 
 banks, very deep and narrow opposite M'Narani, where the 
 Company's Custom House and some fishermen's huts are 
 situated on the shore below the cliffs. It opens out widely 
 further inland, forming an excellent and w^ell-sheltered 
 harbour, then it goes winding out of sight towards Konjora. 
 The telegraph-wire is stretched across the bay from tall posts 
 on either side, high enough to admit of the passing of cruisers 
 below ; it is a wonderfully wide span. 
 
 The great drawback to the place is the want of good water, 
 the only supply being rather brackish. The scenery is 
 wonderfully wild and beautiful. This neighbourhood is noted 
 for its many poisonous snakes, and as our camp was sur- 
 rounded with high grass, it w^as rather risky going about, 
 especially at night, but fortunately I did not come across any. 
 
 I started next day (October 5) on my journey to Melindi, 
 sending on my tent and porters about noon to M'Tondoa, a 
 Swahili town about five miles from Kilifi, I following later. 
 My people were taken across the bay in a large dhow, and I 
 went about 2 p.m., rowing across in a small canoe. The 
 ascent on the opposite side was high and steep, and I came 
 upon very much the same kind of country as before — mostly 
 flat and bushy, with detached fields of sim-sim and beans. 
 The soil was a rich chocolate loam. I had been told at 
 Kilifi and Takaungu that I should see a good deal of diseased 
 metamah along here, but I only passed two withered fields 
 of it. I made special and careful inquiries concerning it from 
 several native gentlemen of experience, who told me that the
 
 VIII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 147 
 
 death of the half-n'i)ened crop was not due to disease, but 
 solely to the fact that the seed (second crop) had been jjut 
 down too late in the season. There was a slight rust on the 
 leaves, but this had no prejudicial effect. 
 
 After traversing" a few more detached fields we passed into 
 forest again, and I had my attention drawn several times to 
 ele[)hant tracks. Rubber vines were fairly [:)lentiful here. 
 After leaving the forest we passed a good deal of abandoned 
 land, now grown up chiefly with guinea-grass ; then cultiva- 
 tion once more, the harvested fields being planted with the 
 second crop of sim-sim, cassava, beans and pulse, etc. We 
 now came upon the first houses of M'Tondoa, a long straggling 
 town ; the houses were generally thatched with grass — show- 
 ing the absence of coco-nuts, the people much preferring the 
 matting made from coco-nut leaves when obtainable. 
 
 I found my tent pitched in the middle of the town, and 
 whilst enjoying a welcome cup of tea I had a talk with the 
 owner of the largest plantations, who had been waiting to 
 welcome me. In the evening some of the principal inhabit- 
 ants came to see me, and on my questioning them as to this 
 supposed metamah disease, they gave me the same explanation, 
 which was subsequently confirmed from other sources. 
 
 On asking them the reason of the absence of coco-nut 
 cultivation round here, they gave me much the same explan- 
 ation as I had already heard at Takaungu, that the coco-nuts 
 throve when young but died off gradually as they became 
 older, and one of the Arabs offered to show me a shamba next 
 morning of dead and dying trees. 
 
 It was in M'Tondoa that I saw the fourth wild cotton plant, 
 the first being at Gongoni, the second in the forest between 
 Melindi and Jelori, and the third at Takaungu. The four 
 plants belong to two species, Gossypiuni barbadensc and G. 
 arhorcuiii. 
 
 Next morning, October 7, I was taken to visit the dead 
 coco-nuts ; they were in an old neglected shamba, which my 
 guide admitted had been abandoned for some time ; there 
 were a few trees still surviving, but the land had simply 
 reverted back to bush, and no wonder the trees had died, 
 for the coco-nut is, above all trees, particularly sensible to
 
 148 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 neglect. A few trees growing;- in the town were ni.iture and 
 full-grown, and appeared health)- enough ; I consider that 
 neglect was the sole cause of their failure both here and at 
 Takaungu. When young the trees are cared for; for while 
 ground i)roduce is grown for the first two years the ground 
 is kept clean and weeded, but when this is discontinued, 
 the soil being so rich that the bush — never rooted out but 
 only cut down — soon springs up again, the trees have their 
 further growth checked by the rank vegetation quickly 
 crowding up arc^und them. 
 
 NATIVE SHAMBA, M TONDOA. 
 
 I give for comparison the prices of coco-nuts in M'Tondoa, 
 Takaungu, and Melindi — 
 
 M'Tondoa. Takaungu. Melindi. 
 
 Green i pice. i pice. i pice. 
 
 Dry 3 to 4 pice. 6 pice. 2 pice. 
 
 Lea\'ing M'Tondoa, I passed througli fine forest-land and 
 one cultixated shamba, the path then leading through unbroken 
 forest extending from the sea to the Giryama country. The 
 lay of the land was ver)- flat, the soil a good chocolate loam 
 and very rich. As I proceeded the forest became thicker and 
 heavier, and I frequentl}- noticed rubber vines as I passed b}', 
 and was told that they were ver\- plentiful all round here. It
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 149 
 
 occurred to me that this forest offered a fine field for experi- 
 mental rubber cultivation ; as apart from the La)idolphice^ 
 experiments could also be tried with Castilloa and Para 
 rubber. 
 
 I continued through thick and unbroken forest for nearly 
 three hours, then emerged upon a fine stretch of cultivated 
 land, extending on both sides for a considerable distance, and 
 consisting of harvested millet fields, beans, sim-sim, " wimbe " 
 or raggy, and maize, the lay of the land being gently undulat- 
 ing. I then plunged into forest again, and after a march 
 of twenty minutes, emerged suddenl)' upon Roka, which is a 
 fairly large town with good houses, and a few coco-nut trees 
 growing in and around it. I here saw a solitary specimen of 
 the Pemba dwarf coco-nut, loaded with fruit ; it was apparently 
 much valued, as it was most carefully fenced round. 
 
 Roka boasts of a fine stone well, near which we halted. 
 Coco-nuts were very scarce, and the people seemed very loath 
 to sell some green coco-nuts I wanted for drinking, preferring 
 to keep them for sale when ripe. 
 
 We left at 1.30 p.m., passing at once into a low flat valley, 
 evidentl)' flooded in the wet season, the soil of a black cla}\ 
 The Roka people had another well here. I passed several 
 more of the.se low grass-valle}'s with much the same character- 
 istics as the first, divided by belts of forest, which eventually 
 continued without a break, the land very flat and the soil an 
 excellent black loam. I saw no rubber. 
 
 We were gradually getting nearer the sea, and after march- 
 ing through more open country with a good deal of coral 
 outcrop, we came on an open grass-plain close to the sea-shore 
 which was thickly fringed with mangro\'es. We passed a good 
 deal of coral rock, thick forest and bush continuing unin- 
 terruptedly on our left, arriving at M'Shaka at 3.30 p.m., about 
 six to sex'en miles' distance from Roka. 
 
 .M'Shaka was a large open shamba belonging to the Liwali 
 of Takaungu, with a slave x'illage where man)- professional 
 indiarubber gatherers come to reside during the rubber 
 season, ten of them being there at this time. The culti- 
 vation round l\r.Shaka was very small considering the 
 large area a\ailable, and consisted of the usual ground
 
 T50 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 prfxlucts ; I saw no coco-nut trees. My head-man Jubah 
 gave me another striking proof of his usefuhiess to-day ! I 
 had sent him on ahead with the porters to give word of my 
 approach, to find a good camping-place, and have everything 
 ready for my arrival. I found him quietly sitting on the 
 ground chatting pleasantly to a number of people and not a 
 thing done ! 
 
 My tent was soon pitched, however, under a fine spreading 
 tree close to a house where some rubber gatherers were living. 
 I was now in one of the best rubber-yielding districts, and was 
 anxious to obtain all the information I could concerning it. I 
 had a long talk with the rubber gatherers in the evening, and 
 arranged for one of them to come with me next day and to 
 show me their mode of gathering it. There was some very 
 fine timber all round here. 
 
 As will be seen from my previous remarks, the country is 
 here covered by extensive forests, extending on the north up 
 to Jelori, on the south down to Takaungu, with a few breaks 
 and patches of open cultivation ; on the east it is bounded by 
 the sea, and extends on the west far up into the Giryama 
 country which I had just traversed. Indiarubber vines are 
 plentiful in the forest along the sea-shore, and for some 
 distance inland ; they then cease, being comparatively rare as 
 one proceeds into the interior, though frequently met with up 
 the Sabaki. The chief collecting grounds are undoubtedly 
 along the forest more immediately bordering the sea, and in 
 the portion between M'Shaka and Melindi the vine is found 
 in particular abundance, and it was this district, known as 
 Aroboko, that I was particularly anxious to visit. In the 
 morning Ramazan reported that the indiarubber gatherers 
 now refused to come and show me the A\ay they gathered 
 rubber, as the Liwali's slaves had told them I had no order 
 from him, and that the real reason of my coming was to stop 
 their trade. This was the first time I had had an}- trouble 
 with the people, and after a little negotiation I succeeded in 
 getting another man to go with me, though he said the slaves 
 would make it unpleasant for him when he came back.. As 
 the other gatherers were in a hurry to be off I at once started 
 with them. I followed my guide along the telegraph-line
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 close to the sea-shore, across large open sandy back-waters, the 
 shore being fringed with mangroves ; on the left the forest 
 continued. The guide then struck off to the left through some 
 grass and forest, and very soon afterwards we found ourselves 
 amongst the rubber vines. They were certainly very numer- 
 ous, climbing up into the trees in every direction, some of 
 them as thick as a man's wrist. The vines were without 
 leaves, and looked like thick ropes hanging down from the 
 branches. 
 
 The method of extracting the rubber I found to be as 
 follows. — The collector makes a series of circular incisions 
 around the vine with a knife at intervals, and then dipping his 
 hand into a pot of salt water, he smears it over the cut 
 portions, from which the milk is exuding, causing it to 
 coagulate at once. The rubber is then collected, commencing 
 at the first ring, and the rubber gathered from this is rubbed 
 over the second ring, and so on, the quantity gradually be- 
 coming larger as the collector proceeds ; he gives the rubber 
 a circular motion as he rubs it over each cut, thus giving it 
 its ball-like appearance. The gatherers generally stop by 
 noon, as the milk does not exude so readily when the sun 
 becomes hotter. There is no collection of rubber, to speak of, 
 during the dry season ; the collector told me they generally 
 worked during six months. It is only when the milk is be- 
 coming scarcer at the end of the wet season that this salt 
 process is used. 
 
 In the regular season the milk is gathered by scraping it off 
 the cut, putting it in a collecting pot, and in the evening 
 boiling it for one hour. 
 
 In the season a man can collect in a day from three to four 
 pounds ; at the time of my visit the amount was only from 
 half-a-pound to a pound. All the vines that I saw bore 
 marks of having been bled ; on questioning my guide, he said 
 he had not noticed that any vines had died from excessiv'e 
 tapping, but this statement I think should be accepted with 
 considerable reserve. The collector stated that it was in the 
 forest round Aroboko that the more valuable vines were to be 
 found. 
 
 The collectors were all free people, chiefly Guniahs, and
 
 152 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ch. viii 
 
 came from all parts of the country from Mclindi to Takaungu ; 
 my t^'uidc, aiui several other collectors who joined him later 
 on, came from the latter place. 
 
 The vines were all a species of Landolphia, and this was 
 my first acquaintance with this variety, my previous know- 
 ledge having been confined to the South American varieties. 
 For all known information concerning the East African 
 rubber vines the world is indebted to the valuable researches 
 of Sir John Kirk, carried on when he was her Majesty's 
 .Agent and Consul-General at Zanzibar ; and I was personally 
 greatly indebted to his various reports on the subject for my 
 ability to classify the varieties growing in the coast regions, 
 which I believe to consist of four, viz. Landolphia florida, 
 L.pctcrsiana, L. oivariensis, and L. Kirkii, named after Sir John 
 Kirk, the discoverer, and )Melding the best rubber, which is of 
 a pink colour. 
 
 The present system of collecting, as I saw it, left very 
 much to be desired ; the use of salt water is especially to be 
 condemned, as it renders the rubber wet and spongy. I have 
 entered into the subject so exhaustively elsewhere^ that I will 
 not add more here, be>'ond remarking that the poor prices 
 realized by African rubber are undoubtedly due to want of 
 care in the preparation, and frequently to adulteration with 
 heavy substances, stones, etc., to add to the weight. It is 
 my firm impression that indiarubber is destined eventually to 
 prove one of the most important exports of the country, and" 
 in \'ie\v of the increasing demand in so many branches of 
 manufacture too much attention cannot be given to it. As 
 an example of the good quality of the rubber obtainable 
 e\'en b)' their imperfect natixe methods, a sample submitted 
 to a leading firm of brokers in i<S90 was reported upon as 
 follows — 
 
 " liall fine, free from sand or wood; this quality is very 
 desirable, as so much of the rubber which comes in is mixed 
 with sand, wood, or barky substance. Such as )-ours, owing 
 to the market being very firm, wciuld bring 2s. ^d. to 2.v. 6d. 
 per lb.," the to]) i:)rices then ruling.-' 
 
 ' ScT A|)pen(lix 1). 
 - I'or furtluT infofiiiation, sec .\])|K'ndi\ ll.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 GUM-COPAL TREES— AROBOKO TO MELINDI — SEARCHING 
 FOR A SLAVE CARAVAN 
 
 Gum-copal Trees— Aroboko— A Well-cultivated Valley— Wasania \'illage 
 — Return to Melindi— Pay off my Men— Untrustworthiness of AH bin 
 Jumah — Small Troubles— News of a Slave Caravan— Once more on 
 the March— The North liank of the Sabaki— The Wakamba Tribe 
 — Guarding the Roads — River Fords — A Trackless Wilderness — Arba- 
 
 ■ gundi — Camping under Difficulties — Native Simplicity — The Wa- 
 
 ■ Galla — Insect Plagues — Crocodile and Hippo Lakes — A Village Fire 
 . — Snakes — Back to Jelori. 
 
 After my visit to the rubber vines, I made m)- waj' back 
 through the forest to the sea-shore, till I struck the regular 
 track leading to Melindi. This I followed till 9.30 a.m., when 
 I came on the path branching off to Aroboko, my destin- 
 ation. So far, that is from Takaungu northwards, I had 
 been travelling more or less in a line with the sea-coast, but 
 the path to Aroboko now led off at right angles to it. A fine 
 land-locked lagoon surrounded b)' mangroves is a noticeable 
 feature here, and I passed a pile of timber roughly dressed by 
 the axe, stacked close to the path awaiting shi]:)ment to 
 Mombasa. Our way led through a thick forest, the soil 
 being of a white to grc}' sand}' loam. I noticed a large 
 number of gum-copal trees as I passed : the}- are most hand- 
 some trees, with a tall straight stem and a white silver}- bark, 
 much resembling birch, and yield the well-known gum-copal 
 varnish of commerce. The tree grows in great abundance in 
 the forests throughout the Giryama country, and belongs to 
 one of the most valuable varieties of copal-bearing trees, 
 viz. the TracJiylobiiiui Jioriieniaimianum H., from which the 
 Zanzibar copal or Animi is obtained. 
 
 153
 
 154 TR.W'ELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 The collection of the i^jum is a|)i)ai'entl}' confined to the 
 Giryamas. It is obtained from the stems of living trees, and 
 from the roots and cavities of dead trees ; two pints of gum 
 from seven trees appearing to be an average >'ield. The 
 Giryamas sell it at a very low price to the merchants on the 
 coast, but the information which I obtained as to prices was 
 not reliable ; these, however, depend upon the quality of the 
 gum, the black-coloured being less valued. Every tree that I 
 })assed had been a good deal hacked to obtain the gum. 
 Surely a better method could be found, for this causes a good 
 deal of unnecessary injury to the trees. 
 
 Continuing through the forest, the character of the land 
 was as usual very flat (the soil of a uniform whitish-grey 
 sandy loam), and the whole country was thick forest, which 
 extended on every side. This continued till ii a,m., one 
 hour and a half from leaving the coast, when I suddenly 
 emerged upon Aroboko, a village belonging to the Liwali of 
 Takaungu's brother ; a strongl}--palisaded sla\"e settlement, 
 possessing a good well }-ielding a constant supply of water. 
 The owner's son was living here at the time, and showed me 
 every attention. Aroboko marks the beginning of culti\ation, 
 for the forest now ceased, and with the exception of the usual 
 intervening tracts of bush and abandoned clearings, cultiva- 
 tion extends up to Melindi, about four hours or thirteen miles 
 distant. 
 
 Apart from the sla\-e culti\ators, a good man}- Guniah 
 rubber collectors were living here, the surrounding forest 
 being rich in rubber vines, and a large quantity of gum-copal 
 is obtained by the \Va-Gir}-ama, who have several villages 
 close by, from numerous trees growing in the vicinity. 
 Aroboko is well situated on the edge of a low flat valley, 
 in the centre of which is a swamj:), which becomes a miniature 
 lake in the wet season, with 4 to 5 feet of water. The 
 whole valley is well culti\ated — a few citron trees were grow- 
 ing here, and were loaded with fruit, and some coco-nut trees 
 were thriving most luxuriantly in the grey sandy loam. 
 
 I had my tent pitched inside the stockade beneath some 
 fine silk-cotton trees — the biggest I had )-et seen. 
 
 The Gallas gave some trouble when this plantation was
 
 IX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 155 
 
 first opened up, and the \'illage had to be stockaded to resist 
 them. I much enjoyed my stay in this quiet place, taking 
 several strolls into the surrounding forest, and admiring the 
 numerous fine trees. 
 
 In the course of the afternoon I went to visit a Wasania 
 village situated on the opposite side of the valley, the 
 residence of the principal Wasania head-man, named Mote. 
 The huts are small conical erections built of grass, and with 
 one narrow entrance. The women wear a curious head orna- 
 ment made of brass and beads, with a large number of red- 
 and-white bead necklaces, whilst their arms and legs are 
 covered with brass rings. The Wasania are chiefly a hunting 
 tribe, and their villages, mostly situated in the forest, are 
 scattered over a large area of country. On subsequent 
 occasions I found them most useful as guides, and they 
 appear to be a simple and well-disposed people. 
 
 I left Aroboko at 6.30 next morning (October 9), for the 
 last stage of my journey to Melindi. My Wanika porters 
 were in the wildest spirits at the prospect of getting home 
 again, and led off singing and shouting, at a pace that soon 
 left my worthy head-men Baba and Jubah miles behind. The 
 path led at first through abandoned land overgrown with 
 thick high bush and grass, amongst which guinea-grass was 
 particularly plentiful, the soil being still of a light grey friable 
 loam. 
 
 Three-quarters of an hour after leaving Aroboko, cultivation 
 again appeared, the land here being gently undulating with 
 some fine flat valleys — the soil now changing to a rich 
 chocolate loam. 
 
 In another three-quarters of an hour I came on the first 
 village and coco-nut shamba, with open fields, continuing 
 afterwards through a fine fertile country with extensive coco- 
 nut plantations and numerous villages on every side, many 
 mango trees being scattered about. The soil was excellent, 
 a fine friable chocolate loam — this portion of the Melindi 
 district appearing as fertile as the rest, though there were 
 here also large tracts of abandoned and uncleared land. 
 
 I finally reached Melindi at 10.30 a.m., four hours after 
 leaving Aroboko, m}- expedition ha\ing taken thirt\'-six days.
 
 I5fi TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 I wc-iit sli-ai,t4ht to the Liwali's shamba, which I had previously 
 found a most Cfjinfortablc cainping-placc, and had my tent 
 pitched under a large spreading mango tree, with a good well 
 close by, and a view of the sea from my tent. The shamba 
 was a little outside the town — a decided advantage ! 
 
 I reported myself at the f)ffice on my arrival, and had 
 breakfast with Anstruther. In the afternoon I paid off my 
 large following, returning my surplus ammunition to the 
 stores, pleased to think that the few cartridges expended had 
 been fired solely in friendly salutes. My Wanika were so 
 anxious to go home, that I paid them off and let them go at 
 once, and arranged for some of the estate people at Magarini 
 to come for m}' things. 
 
 I was detained at Melindi on \-arious matters, finally start- 
 ing for Mombrui on October 12. I walked b}- the sea-shore, 
 Anstruther coming a part of the way with me. I had sent 
 my things on ahead, so that on leaving xAnstruther I found 
 m}'self alone, which, after the crowd of people I had lately 
 had alwa}'s around me, felt quite odd, I crossed the Sabaki 
 all right, and found a couple of donkeys waiting on the other 
 side, together with some most welcome green coco-nuts, sent 
 by my ever-thoughtful friend, the Liwali of Mombrui, by 
 whom and the elders I was most cordially welcomed on my 
 arrival, the Liw ali insisting on my stopping at his house as 
 before. I w.ls ver\- sorry to receive unsatisfactory reports of 
 Ali bin Jumah, the overseer at Magarini — whom, b}' the wa}-, 
 I had found at Melindi, and had at once sent back to his 
 work with a sharp reprimand. 
 
 I was now told that Mr, Ali. was strongly suspected b}- the 
 Liwali of h.'uing sold a certain amount of estate produce and 
 coco-nuts for his own profit. The Liwali had a bad opinion 
 of him, remarking that "big talkers were never worth much." 
 
 This was not encouraging, and made me rather distrustful 
 of the Swahili character. The Liwali admitted that every- 
 bod}' cheated and stole who got a chance ; he also told me' 
 that, ha\ing questioned .\li f)ne da\- abf)Ut some tri\'ial theft 
 of a balance of money left o\er from the purchase of some 
 rope, Ali bin Jumah exclaimed : " Was it worth my while to 
 steal only a rupee and a half! "
 
 JX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ,157 
 
 I returned to Magarini early next morning, and determined 
 to hold a strict inquiry into this and other matters. I found 
 everything very satisfactor)-, and w as much pleased with the 
 appearance of the cotton, which had come on very well, though 
 rats had destroyed a good deal of the last-sown seed, leaving a 
 good many vacancies. In the general report on the estate 
 works given me by Ali bin Jumah, he emphasized the fact 
 that he had not yet begun to gather coco-nuts. There was, of 
 course, a crop of small troubles awaiting me : one of the estate 
 donkeys had run away, and had not yet been found ; there 
 were disputes to settle among estate hands ; and a native tailor, 
 whom I had got up to teach some of the younger boys what I 
 thought was a useful trade, had not only run away with his 
 three apprentices, but had stolen a lot of clothes which he had 
 orders to make, besides having borrowed money right and 
 left. I soon had him caught and punished and recovered the 
 bo}-s. 
 
 I now hoped to settle down at Magarini, where a good many 
 things demanded my attention, but I had to .set off on another 
 expedition sooner than I expected, for two days after my 
 return I received, on October 15, a confidential letter from 
 Melindi, advising me that from information received at 
 Mombasa, a slave caravan estimated at about seventy souls 
 was coming down the Sabaki route, and was evidently bound 
 for Mombrui. The Administrator desired me to do my utmost 
 in co-oj^eration with the Company's officer at Melindi to 
 intercept it. This, I may explain, was one of those trading 
 caravans to the interior which combine slave-trading with 
 their legitimate business, and try to run their contraband 
 human merchandise to the coast unobserved by the authorities, 
 and thence .ship them for sale to Pemba or Muscat at the first 
 opportunity. 
 
 Mr. Wilson, who was at Melindi just then, and with whom 
 I was to co-operate, was proceeding up the Sabaki by the 
 south bank, so I settled to go up on the north side.. This 
 part of the country being quite unexplored, I had to make some 
 preliminary inquiries about the way, which I did as quietly as 
 I could, so as not to cause alarm. I announced to Ali that L 
 was merely going up the river a little on the south side to
 
 158 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 have a look at that part of the country with a view of extend- 
 ing cultivation, at the same time ordering him to send me up 
 ten good men with guns, and a Nakoa in charge of them to 
 whom he was to give his own Snider. I had only received my 
 instructions in the afternoon, and by the time I had made my 
 necessary arrangements, it was too late to start that evening. 
 At daybreak the next morning I was on the road, my small 
 force numbering twenty-five people, as follows — • 
 
 Ten armed men with one Nakoa. 
 
 Eleven porters carrying my kit and food for the people, 
 Ramazan, my cook, and servants. 
 
 I had ascertained that a direct path from the interior existed 
 on the south side of the river coming down from Makongeni 
 to Mombrui, and that a path to Magarini branched off from it. 
 This was the road generally taken by fugitive slaves on their 
 way to Makongeni, and by the Arabs in their various 
 expeditions to attack the runaway-slave settlements, so I 
 thought it most probable that the caravan I was in search of 
 would follow this route. 
 
 I therefore started off with my people along this path, and 
 after passing over many low swampy grass flats, we stopped 
 to obtain a supply of water from a hole at about an hour's 
 distance from Magarini, as further on, I was told, the water 
 was brackish. I was the object of much curiosity to the 
 Wanika of a village close by, being, I believe, the first 
 European who had passed that way. 
 
 After passing chiefly through open country with interven- 
 ing belts of forest, I joined the direct Mombrui path near a 
 large pond of brackish water, and about eight to nine miles' 
 distance from Magarini. Here I halted to snatch a brief meal 
 and rest my people. We then continued in perfect silence, I 
 leading with the armed porters, Ramazan and the other porters 
 following a little behind. Eurther on the country became 
 more undulating with thicker forest and occasional open 
 glades ; a good many of the hollows looked as if they were 
 flooded during the rains, the soil being a stiff black loam. 
 
 About four miles further on we came upon a shallow lake 
 with good water, lying to the left of the path, and got a good 
 view across it of Sekoki Hill and Jelori. This lake must be
 
 IX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA i6i 
 
 fairly extensive in the rainy season, as there was now a good deal 
 of water in it. We went on a bit further trying to find a Wanika 
 village that we had been told was situated about here, but 
 were unsuccessful, and as it was getting dark, wa made our 
 way back to the lake, and camped by it for the night. I 
 arranged my men into watches, putting an advanced outpost 
 forward on the path, and took it in turns with Ramazan and 
 the Nakoa to visit it during the night, which however passed 
 away undisturbed. 
 
 I thought at first of waiting here for the caravan, but on 
 reflection I concluded that it was too close to Mombrui, for so 
 many Wanika passed up and down that the report would soon 
 have spread that I was blocking the road. There were many 
 native villages scattered about^ but they all lay closer to the 
 Sabaki, and after leaving the Wanika clearings near Magarini, 
 I did not pass any village or signs of cultivation until I got 
 close to the river. After leaving the lake the path continued 
 through fine forest country, with large open glades of good 
 grass. 
 
 The appearance of the country improved greatly as I 
 advanced, and I now came upon several clearings, whilst many 
 cross-roads showed that villages were becoming numerous. 
 
 One of the Wakamba whom I met told me that there was 
 another small lake a little way off the path. After a while, I 
 came upon a large Wakamba village, called Singwaia, well 
 protected by a strong palisade, and situated close to the 
 Sabaki, which here made a sweeping curve, and with its dark 
 green fringe of forest made a charming picture. From some 
 rising ground I could see that the country for a considerable 
 distance was open and flat, so I decided to halt here, placing 
 sentries ahead and beyond the village, and pitching my camp 
 inside the forest, so as not to be seen. I remained here, keep- 
 ing a sharp look-out, from the 17th to the 21st of October. I 
 was close to the W'akamba village of Singwaia, and a short 
 description of this tribe may be given here. 
 
 The Wakamba tribe inhabit the north bank of the Sabaki, 
 their chief village being Singwaia, where their principal head- 
 man, by name Kalamo, resides. The Wakamba are a branch 
 of the Wanika group, though their language is dissimilar. 
 
 -M
 
 i62 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 They arc, like the Giryama, a peaceful and aG^ricultiiral tribe, 
 and 1 was much pleased with those that I met and had any 
 dealini;s with. There were, I understocxl, frequent flis])utes 
 between the VVakamba and the Wa-Giryama, the former 
 objecting to the latter crossing and settling on the north side 
 of the river, which they considered their own ground. Besides 
 the Wakamba villages, there were a few occupied by the 
 Wakahoma and Wachoni tribes. 
 
 Late in the evening of the first day, a Wakamba volun- 
 teered the information that there was another road to Mako- 
 ngeni, and that the one I was on had been abandoned on 
 account of the flooding of the Sabaki in the rainy season. I 
 found that the road he spoke of branched off a little way below 
 my camp. I gave a reward to the Wakamba for his informa- 
 tion, and put a guard on the road at once. 
 
 There was a good deal of native cultivation round here, 
 Indian corn, beans, tomatoes, tobacco, etc. Fowls also are 
 very plentiful and cheap, about ten pice each. Singwaia was 
 about two hours' distance from Jelori. 
 
 I spent these two days in examining the paths and keeping 
 my outposts on the alert. On the evening of the 20th, my 
 cook came to me with a doleful report of destitution : the 
 cooking oil was finished, only a little oil for the lantern was 
 left, there was no sugar, and though there was flour, no toddy 
 was available to leaven it, and I was therefore without bread, 
 such as it was ! In this extremity I sent to Jelori for relief. 
 The Hoopers were in great straits themselves, but most kindly 
 sent me a supply of sugar : fowls and maize were plentiful, so 
 I was not to be pitied. I had discovered two fords over the 
 Sabaki, one just opposite Jelori, the other close to the village 
 of Singwaia. As nothing could be seen or heard of the sla\'e 
 caravan on either side of the river, I resolved to move further up. 
 
 At first the path led through forest with a black and stick)- 
 clay soil, rendered extremel}' slippery by the rain which had 
 been falling all the morning and continued falling all day. 
 
 Eventuall)' we emerged upon a lox'cly fertile country, evi- 
 dently all forest at one time, and now extensively cultivated, 
 the jjath com[)letcl}' overgrown with high grass fully 6 to 
 7 feet high, through which it was extrcmeh- difficult to
 
 IX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 165 
 
 struggle. So many paths branched off to the different fields 
 and villages, that we continually lost our way ; indeed shortly 
 afterwards my two scouts came back to report that the path 
 ended at the river, at another ford, the third we had met with 
 — the new path we then followed also ended abruptly at the 
 river, as did the next likewise. 
 
 With so many of the Makongeni villages on the north side 
 of the river, I thought there must be a direct route to them 
 from this direction, and accordingly retraced my steps with a 
 view to finding it. After half-an-hour, I struck a path which 
 led to the foot of a very steep, slippery bank, up which we 
 climbed, and found at the top that we had come upon a small 
 runaway-slave settlement ; its site was well chosen, for the 
 hifrh bank on which it was situated commanded an extensive 
 view of the country round. 
 
 The Watoro here assured me that there was no road to 
 Makongeni on this northern side of the river, and that the 
 country ahead was all thick forest with scattered Galla villages. 
 Wishing to verify this statement, I got one of the Watoro to 
 guide me and two armed porters to the nearest Giryama 
 village, where the head-man confirmed the above statement, 
 saying that the road from Mombrui crossed the Sabaki 
 opposite the village of Arbagundi, and that there was no other 
 road except the one I had just left, and the old war-paths of 
 the Gallas — known only to themselves. We therefore returned 
 to the river, and waded across to the large village of Arba- 
 gundi on the south side, which is inhabited by the Wa-Giryama 
 and Gallas. This village and the country surrounding it take 
 their name from Arbagundi lake, which, it is said, partly dries 
 up in the hot season ; the soil is of a friable black loam, and 
 very porous, having quite absorbed the heavy rain-fall. 
 Further on it changed to a bright red loam, the grass being 
 short and good. 
 
 I had only brought a couple of men with me, having told 
 my porters to wait on the other side till I had found out 
 something definite about the path. I now sent one of the men 
 for the rest of my people, and had my tent pitched close to 
 the river to command the crossing. It had been raining hard 
 all the morning, and all my things — tent, bed, and bedding —
 
 l66 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 were wet through ; even m>' writing-board had been washed 
 to pieces in the rain. It was 2 p.m. when I camped, and it 
 was only after a long time and by sheltering it with my 
 indiarubber sheet that my cook managed to light a fire 
 at all. We partook of our first meal that day at 3 p.m., I 
 sitting on the edge of my wet bed, my canvas chair being 
 soaked through. The natives collected in such crowds to 
 watch the white man eat (I was the first they had seen), that 
 I had finally to withdraw from observation by shutting up 
 my tent. The head-men came to see me, but after ascertain- 
 ing that no caravan had yet passed that way, I told them to 
 come back early next morning. This was by far the worst 
 day and night I had ever experienced ; it never ceased to 
 pour. I got my blanket fairly dried at the fire, and wrapping 
 it round me managed to sleep. I lent my rubber sheet to 
 Ramazan to put on the top of his grass-hut to keep out the 
 torrents of rain ; the men on night duty had built shelter-huts 
 for themselves, and the remainder had found a deserted one 
 to sleep in. 
 
 I had now been seven days on the north bank of the 
 Sabaki and had had ample opportunities of observation. I 
 may say that, on the whole, that part struck me as being most 
 fertile, and well adapted for the cultivation of most tropical 
 products, the loamy black soil found near the river appearing 
 particularly well adapted to the requirements of the cotton 
 plant ; and I saw no reason why the cultivation of the 
 Egyptian variety should not prove a success, all it requires 
 being an alluvial soil, a regular supply of water to the roots, 
 and sunshine to ripen the pods. 
 
 The country south of Jelori may be described as gently 
 undulating to flat, chiefly forest land, with occasional open 
 glades, and little or no cultivation beyond the river-banks. 
 From Jelori to opposite Arbagundi the country was well 
 populated, flat and open, and very fertile. Beyond this it 
 was reported to be either forest or thick bush, with scattered 
 Galla villages. 
 
 I estimated the distance from Arbagundi, where I was 
 camped, to Mombrui, to be between thirty and forty miles^ 
 whilst Makongeni was said to be fifteen or sixteen miles off.
 
 
 '*v*3^^ 
 
 T, 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 ^. 
 
 VILLAGE GATEWAY— NOUTH KANK OF THE SABAKI.
 
 IX TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 169 
 
 Next morning the weather was threatening, but cleared up 
 after a Httle ; I was indeed thankful for the sunshine to dry 
 all my saturated things. All the head-men arrived early, 
 bringing some scraggy fowls as a present. They appeared 
 to think that all Europeans are born doctors, and wanted 
 medicines for various ailments. Some of their demands were 
 remarkable for their touching faith and simplicity, as for 
 instance, medicines to make old people young again, and 
 particularly for some that would make them fathers of many 
 children ! They told me that one of the two paths led from 
 here to Anstruther's road (from Jelori to Makongeni), and 
 that the other branched off to M'Lengo-Baya and into the 
 interior. They assured me that there was no road to 
 Makongeni on the north side of the river ; so I posted two 
 of my men on the path three and a half miles away, where it 
 joined Anstruther's road, and two more on the path branching 
 off to IM'Lengo-Baya ; a third outpost of four men I placed 
 outside the village, and felt that I had done all I could for 
 the present. 
 
 In the evening the Galla head-men brought a number of 
 fresh applicants for medicine. This hankering for drugs is 
 astonishing ; everywhere I went it was the same thing ; but 
 I always encouraged the people to come and talk to me, 
 as I found it was one of the best ways to obtain information 
 about their country and themselves. 
 
 Formerly the Gallas lived chiefly on a flesh diet, like the 
 Masai, but now maize is their principal food ; they are also 
 very fond of goats'-milk, and keep large herds of them, but 
 they told me that they lost a good many by crocodiles seizing 
 them while drinking at the river. The next day, October 
 26, I was once more restored to comparative plenty by the 
 return of the two messengers that I had sent down to the 
 coast for much-needed supplies ; they also brought me a 
 couple of books from Anstruther. They zvere a treat ! The 
 messengers also brought me a letter from the Administrator, 
 authorizing me to act as I thought best. Mr. Wilson had 
 also written to me to sa)^ that he had got sixty to sevent}- 
 Watoro scouts watching the country all round Makongeni. 
 The runaway slaves naturall>- hated the Arabs, and vowed
 
 170 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 to do their very best to catch the caravan, so I thought 
 that I could not do better than await events where I was, 
 particularly as I commanded the sole outlet to Mombrui on 
 this side. 
 
 The great drawback to comfort was that as soon as it 
 became dark, I was visited by the fourth plague of Egypt ; 
 swarms of insects of all kinds, with remarkably sharp stings, 
 attracted by my light, invaded my tent, fell into my food, 
 plate, and everything, compelling me to beat a hurried retreat 
 under my mosquito-curtains, where a good many managed 
 to follow me. These flies were a great nuisance, for I could 
 neither read, write, nor even eat in peace. Next day there 
 was still no news of the slave caravan, so I set off with one 
 of my men to find a lake which I had been told was close 
 to the village. I found it in a hollow, only ten minutes' walk 
 away ; it was small, but evidently became larger in the wet 
 season, and was, I expect, the birthplace of many of my 
 nightly tormentors. A guide I had picked up in the village 
 told me that there were both crocodiles and hippo in a lake 
 further on, so I set. off to find it. Passing through some open 
 country, and descending a low valley, I came upon a small 
 lake partly surrounded by cultivation, and I thought it was 
 the one I was in search of; but my guide said no, there 
 were crocodiles here, but his- lake was further on. Proceeding 
 through high grass and stunted bush, to my surprise we 
 suddenly came upon a third small lake, surrounded and 
 hidden by high grass ; it was simply swarming with crocodiles. 
 Some, of an enormous size, were sleeping on the banks — 
 horrid yellow-looking brutes, with their mouths wide open. 
 Unfortunately, I had no gun with me, and the trigger of my 
 porter's gun was rusty from the recent rains, and would not 
 work, or I could easily have shot several. The hippo lake 
 was still ahead ; when found, it was a small and winding 
 sheet of water with hij^po tracks all around. As it was now 
 getting dark, I determined, if I could manage it, to return 
 another day and try my luck. From rising ground close by 
 I had a good view of the valley I had just traversed ; it 
 appeared a large hollow or basin, surrounded on all sides by 
 forest. The guide assured me that the entire hollow was
 
 IX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 171 
 
 filled with water in the rains and formed an extensive lake, 
 which in the dry season narrowed down to the chain of lakes 
 I had passed. 
 
 Para rubber trees would do well here, as the low flooded 
 land and rich soil meet their requirements. On my way 
 back, at the second lake, I succeeded in getting a shot with 
 the porter's rifle at a large crocodile that was basking on the 
 bank about 50 yards away. I hit him, and he rushed back 
 into the water with a tremendous plunge, kicking up a thick 
 shower of mud. 
 
 In the evening I received a letter from Mr. Wilson asking 
 me to meet him the following evening at M'Lengo-Baya on 
 his way down to the coast ; so early next morning I set off at 
 daylight with the Giryama guide to the hippo lake. On reach- 
 ing it I at first saw nothing, but presently I observed two 
 pairs of nostrils out in the centre, just above the water. After 
 waiting for a long time, in hopes of a better chance, I fired at 
 the nearest, but the mark was too small and the hippo ducked 
 before the bullet reached. A number of Giryamas that had 
 turned up, told me that sunset was the time to get them, as they 
 then showed their heads well out of the water. The Giryamas 
 were very eager for me to shoot one, for they are very fond of 
 the flesh. I promised them I would return some evening if 
 possible. On my way back I shot two crocodiles ; this small 
 lake was simply seething with the brutes, which were swim- 
 ming about in every direction. Each time that I passed 
 backwards and forwards in visiting these lakes, I was more 
 and more struck with the richness of the pure alluvial soil. 
 
 I had just arranged to start for M'Lengo-Baya in the 
 evening when Wilson arrived at my camp. Having heard 
 that I was quite near, he had come on. We spent a pleasant 
 evening together discussing our arrangements, and wondering 
 what had become of the slave caravan, as we could hear 
 nothing of it. Wilson was afraid that it had escaped us 
 by taking a more northerly route. 
 
 After dinner we had a little excitement to vary the mono- 
 tony of camp life. We saw a big glare, and were told that 
 the village was on fire. We rushed off to help with our 
 people, most of these intelligent beings taking their guns with
 
 172 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAF. 
 
 them ; what they intended to do with their weapons at a fire 
 was not very clear ! We found on arriving that the central 
 hut of the village was burning, and if not checked, the fire 
 would quickly spread to all the others, and yet the Gallas and 
 Giryamas stood looking helplessly on. My old Indian 
 experience came to my aid, and I made all our people cut off 
 branches of trees and beat out the fire with them, and by 
 these means we soon had it isolated. Indeed, we had not 
 come a moment too soon to save the village from destruc- 
 tion, in which case, along with all their goods, the people 
 would have lost all their goats, for they are kept inside the 
 village at night in sheds. The Gallas were very grateful for 
 our aid. 
 
 The fire was caused by two large black snakes that had 
 come into the village after fowls. A Galla, hearing a fowl in 
 distress, went out with a fire-stick to see what was the matter, 
 and so set fire to the hut. One of the snakes, a large black 
 one, fully 6 feet long, flat-headed and very poisonous, was 
 burnt to death, the other escaped. The heat of the fire 
 was so intense that I was completely wet through with 
 perspiration. 
 
 Mr. Wilson left for Melindi next morning. After breakfast, 
 as some Galla boys were taking their goats down to the river 
 to drink, one of them called out that he saw a snake in the 
 tree just above my tent. On looking up, I saw, not one, but 
 two long green snakes (" Mambas " or Tree Cobras, Dcn- 
 draspis\ both of which the nakoa Ambari shot. 
 
 I went off in the afternoon with the Giryama to the small 
 hippo lake, but the animals showed their noses only above 
 water, and the guide and a boy who was with him made such 
 a row between them that I had to give up the attempt to get 
 a shot. Coming back I had a look at the crocodile lake, and 
 stalking several that were basking on a spit of mud, to the 
 huge delight of the Giryama I sent a Martini-Henry bullet 
 through two of them — one a big brute about 50 }'ards away 
 shot clean thrcjugh the body, and the other an equally large 
 one, about two yards beyond him, the one bullet doing for both. 
 The crocodiles stood gasping, opening and shutting their 
 enormous mouths, the blood flowing from the wounds ; they
 
 IX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 173 
 
 managed to stagger into the water, rolling into it backwards, 
 belly up. 
 
 Next morning I was again unsuccessful after the hippo. 
 They showed only the tips of their noses, and after a couple 
 of hours' useless waiting, I went back to the crocodile lake. 
 Here I met Ramazan and some of my porters who had come 
 to look for the crocodiles that I had shot the day before. It 
 was terribly hard work pushing our way through grass higher 
 than one's head, and the heat was intense. Although we 
 struck the lake in several places — cutting a path to do so — I 
 could not find the spot, and concluded there must be a small 
 island in the centre, on to which the crocodiles had crawled. 
 We disturbed plenty of them, for every time we came near 
 the water, there were two or three big splashes and rustlings 
 in the grass that indicated their presence. 
 
 After giving up the search as hopeless, I shot another on 
 the bank, this time with an express bullet which I put into 
 his neck. I had now shot five of them — they are such 
 horrible brutes that one has no feeling of mercy for them ! 
 
 In the afternoon I received an official letter from Melindi 
 telling me to come down and meet the Administrator, who 
 was expected in a few days. I immediately packed up and 
 started for Jelori, where I was again hospitably received by 
 my friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hooper. Mr. Hooper told me that 
 some Wasania had killed a hippo a few days before with 
 poisoned arrows, and when seen floating on the water thirty- 
 six hours afterwards, it was at first taken for a canoe with two 
 men in it !
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 A THREATENED RAID — MV EXPEDITION TO NO. 2 
 STOCKADE 
 
 A New Commission — Grateful Arab Ladies — Ali bin Jumah — Departure 
 for No. 2 Stockade— The " Siafu " Ant — An Exciting Report — A 
 Hurried Return — Organize a Reconnoitring Party — Native Allies — A 
 False Alarm — A New Start — Oppressive Heat — Centipedes and Scor- 
 pions — Troubles with the Watoro — Our Plans — The North-east Rains 
 ■ — March up the Sabaki — Thick Forest — The Sabaki River — Camp in 
 the Bush — Masai War-paths — Difficult Progress — Characteristics of 
 the Country — Game Tracks — Reach the Stockade at last. 
 
 On my way to Melindi I again travelled down by Mr. 
 Weaver's new road, to which several miles had now been 
 added, of a width of 20 feet. 
 
 Arriving at the coast I learnt that the reason of my being 
 summoned down was that I was reqiu'red to go up to No. 2 
 Stockade on the Sabaki river, this being the second of a 
 series of posts established by Captain Lugard on that route 
 to the interior at intervals of from fort}- to sixty miles apart. 
 It was to be repaired and victualled in preparation for the 
 Railway Survey party, which the Government was sending 
 to surx'ey the proposed railway line from the coast to the 
 Victoria Nyanza. I at once wired to the Administrator (Mr. 
 E. J. Berkeley, now her Majesty's Commissioner in Uganda), 
 reporting my arrival at Melindi and my efforts to intercept 
 the slave caravan, and received a reply in which I was thanked 
 for m)' work, and told I had done everything that was 
 possible. The Administrator explained the object for which 
 he desired me to proceed to No. 2 Stockade, and I accepted 
 the mission, pointing out, however, that the work was quite 
 
 174
 
 CH. X TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 175 
 
 outside the scope of my agreement, but that in any matter of 
 urgency I was entirely at his disposal. It was arranged that 
 I should combine the immediate purpose of my present 
 mission with an examination of that part of the country, and 
 report upon its resources and possibilities of development. 
 
 For my final instructions I had to await Mr. Berkele}''s arrival 
 in the s.s. Juba, which was bringing him up from Mombasa. 
 
 I found Melindi in a great state of excitement. The day 
 before I returned a Muscat Arab had run amok and shot and 
 killed one of the most influential men in the place, and after 
 wounding another man and woman he was hunted down and 
 shot by the town's-people. 
 
 The Liwali of Melindi took advantage of my return to 
 mention the case of Nasur bin Suliman's wife, who had been 
 left by her husband in utter poverty, and he asked that 
 something might be done for her, as she was of a good family. 
 He said he would send her to me in the evening ; as custom 
 did not allow her to go out in the daytime, she arrived after 
 dinner escorted by an askari. She was the first Arab lady I 
 had spoken to, and I was struck by her refined features and 
 light complexion. I explained to her that her husband being 
 alive she had no claim whatever upon the Company, but 
 taking her reduced circumstances into consideration, I would 
 allow her a fixed monthly maintenance out of the shamba 
 revenues, which I would arrange to be paid to her every 
 month. The poor woman, whose name was A)'esha binti 
 Sofriani, seemed overwhelmed with gratitude, and seizing my 
 hands kissed them and placed them to her forehead. I gave 
 her a tin of sweet biscuits, and sent her home rejoicing. I 
 told the Liwali next day what I had done, and he was much 
 pleased, and said my action would create a most favourable 
 impression amongst the Arabs. 
 
 Another similar case was that of the sister of Suliman bin 
 Abdulla, who appeared to have lent all her money to her 
 brother, and he had left her destitute. I told her I would ask 
 the Liwali to make suitable arrangements for her comfort 
 and well-being, and could not help being touched when I 
 received from her the next morning a thank-offering of a fowl 
 and some eggs.
 
 1/6 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Then there was the case of AH bin Jumah to be investi- 
 gated. The reader will recollect that this overseer had been 
 suspected of privately selling the Magarini plantations 
 produce. 
 
 He was brought down to Mombrui and publicly tried ; 
 several witnesses came forward to prove that they had 
 purchased bananas, coco-nuts, etc., from him. He then 
 admitted having sold coco-nuts, excusing himself on the 
 childish plea that "he forgot to tell me," though he had 
 declared, when I questioned him on my return, that he had 
 not yet begun to gather any. He now yielded up an account 
 of $49} for coco-nuts sold ! The man appeared to have 
 been pilfering and stealing wholesale, and he was kept a 
 prisoner whilst efforts were made to recover more of the 
 cash. Another overseer, named Mohamed bin Hussein, 
 and a native of India, was appointed in his place. 
 
 I paid a flying visit to Magarini, and was pleased to find 
 a large quantity of cotton gathered, and the young cotton 
 plants looking very well. I took nineteen people from here 
 for my journey to No. 2 Stockade. 
 
 When Mr, Berkeley arrived, I received more detailed 
 instructions from him, and learned that my mission was 
 rather a big thing. I had to superintend the reconstruction 
 and victualling of No. 2 Stockade for a large survey party 
 which was shortly expected. It consisted of six European 
 officers, fifty Indians, certain camp-followers, 200 porters, and 
 120 donkeys; half of which were to proceed by the Sabaki 
 route to my stockade, which had to be victualled and prepared 
 for an estimated force of 150 men for a period of forty days. I 
 obtained the assistance of Mr. Weaver for cutting the road to 
 No. 2 Stockade. 
 
 At length all was ready, and I started from Melindi for 
 Jelori on November 4, passing Weaver on the road. I 
 camped near the river and enjoyed a very lively evening, 
 for after dinner an army of " Siafu " (the large red forest 
 ants) invaded my tent, and in a short time I was covered 
 with them. I felt as if I were being nipped with a hundred 
 red-hot pincers. They are awful — they bite you, and then ■ 
 stand on their heads, which the}' bur}- into )'ou with a screw-
 
 X TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 177 
 
 like twist. It is impossible to shake them off, they part with 
 their heads and Hves first, and have to be picked off one by 
 one ! I was obHged to call all hands out to clear the tent, 
 burn fires, and strew hot embers all around. Nothing else 
 would have rid us of them. 
 
 The next day proved an eventful one. After calling on 
 Mr. and Mrs. Hooper I had proceeded about two miles, when 
 I was overtaken by a man sent after me by Mr. Hooper, 
 with a note stating that he had information of importance. 
 I returned, and met Mr. Hooper on the road ; he informed 
 me of a reported advance of the Witu people to attack Jelori 
 and Melindi. On October 30 letters had been received from 
 him at Melindi to the same effect, stating that he had received 
 information of the threatened invasion from the Giryama 
 people ; he was then advised to send his wife and child down 
 to the coast for safety. I severely cross-examined the Giryama 
 chief who brought the news, and what I elicited from him 
 was to the following effect — 
 
 A Wasania hunter had told him that the day before, whilst 
 hunting in the forest, he came across the Witu people in 
 great numbers, and that he saw seven different tribes, amongst 
 others the Watiku, the Wa-Katwa, and the Wa-Galla (who 
 were impressed by force), and that it w^as the people of Witu 
 who had gathered them all together. A good many were 
 armed with guns and the rest with Galla spears. The Wasania 
 was told by one of the Gallas that the chief of the Witu 
 people, Fumo Omari,^ had told everybody that he was going 
 to make war on the Europeans at Jelori ; that he proposed 
 to make friends with the Giryamas, through whose country 
 he would pass ; that he would arrive at Jelori early on 
 Sunday morning, and then push on hard for Melindi. The 
 Wasania informant had returned to watch them. 
 
 I rewarded the Giryama head-man, and immediately sent a 
 warning to the coast and to Weaver. Mr. Burt now arrived, 
 having heard the intelligence from other quarters. I strongly 
 
 ^ Fuino Uniari was deposed and outlawed by the punitive expedition 
 sent to Witu by her Majesty's Government in October 1890, to avenge 
 the murder of certain German subjects, but he still had a considerable 
 and lawless following.
 
 178 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 urged Mr. and Mrs. Hooper and Mr. Burt to come in to 
 Melindi, to which they agreed. The former were naturally 
 greatly excited, and hurriedly packing up their things. 
 What they could not carry, I advised Mr. Burt, who remained 
 behind, to send over to the island in the middle of the lake by 
 canoe and then sink the canoe. This he promised to do 
 before leaving the next day. I had a scratch breakfast with 
 the Hoopers at one o'clock ; at four Ramazan arrived with the 
 porters who had gone on ahead, and whom I had recalled. 
 They did not relish the prospect of going back to Melindi 
 that night, but they obeyed. I must say the Mission converts 
 behaved badly, and I had to give up nine of my people to 
 help to carry Mrs. Hooper and their baggage, and thus had 
 to leave five of my loads, tent, etc., behind me. I was going 
 to leave my bed also, but my excellent Ramazan, though he 
 left his own pillow, would not suffer me to go without it. 
 
 Finally we left at 5 p.m., all Mrs. Hooper's native Christian 
 girls coming with us — the men and women fled into the 
 forest. As it got dark I went on ahead, leaving Mr. and Mrs, 
 Hooper to follow, one of their people carrying the baby. I 
 left them in charge of Ramazan. I hope never to have 
 another experience like that night. It was so dark in the 
 forest that I ran repeatedly against trees, and when I got into 
 the new road it was worse, for Weaver had set fire to a number 
 of felled trees, and getting over them was most difficult. 
 Further on, it was so dark that I could not see the winding 
 track, so I climbed over pile after pile of timber stacked ready 
 for burning, and had so many " croppers " that it was a wonder 
 I did not break all my bones. My porters too had a lively 
 time of it. As I got near Weaver's camp, I fired two shots 
 as a signal of my approach. Just as I arrived I was challenged 
 by a voice demanding (in broken English as I fancied), " Who 
 goes there ? " I thought it was one of Weaver's people and 
 did not reply. Challenged a second time, I answered care- 
 lessly, " BwiDiar To my astonishment. Weaver himself 
 exclaimed, " By Jove ! it was lucky you replied, for I had you 
 covered with my revolver, and if you had not answered I 
 should have fired ! " It was he who had challenged me, for 
 my two shots had startled him considerably, for after m)- note
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 179 
 
 of warning he thought it was the Witu force, and had turned 
 out all his people ready to fight. 
 
 I explained how it was, and got him to send out some hot 
 tea and milk for Mrs. Hooper and the baby. When they 
 arrived Mrs. Hooper declared she could not have gone a step 
 further when the tea met her. Weaver most kindly turned 
 out of his tent for them, and he and I slept in a small one. 
 It rained hard all night. 
 
 Next morning Mr. Hooper was naturally anxious to 
 get his wife and child into Melindi, so I left more of my 
 loads behind and put four of my best men to carry Mrs. 
 Hooper and her baby in a hammock, and sent them off at once. 
 It was literally raining in torrents, but Weaver rigged up a 
 waterproof sheet over Mrs. Hooper's hammock, which effec- 
 tually protected her and the baby from the rain. I followed 
 (telling Weaver to wait for further instructions), and catching 
 the party up, promised the bearers a present if they came 
 on sharp. I then went on ahead to Melindi, meeting some 
 porters with twelve guns, who were sent to our aid by Wilson, 
 still in charge in Mr. Anstruther's absence. A letter from him 
 also informed me that the Acting Administrator at Mombasa 
 had made arrangements for sending a gunboat from Zanzibar. 
 Warning had also been sent up to the Administrator at Lamu. 
 
 As Wilson could organize and defend Melindi — where the 
 people mustered a good many guns and were willing and 
 ready to fight — I volunteered to lead a small force back to 
 Jelori to defend the Mission settlement if possible, also think- 
 ing that an advanced outpost would be useful to find out 
 the whereabouts of the enemy, and to give timely warning of 
 their approach. This being approved of, I got together about 
 fifty men, consisting mainly of my own people from Magarini, 
 and prepared to start again next morning. Wilson gave me 
 sixteen donkeys to carry up our stores and supply of ammu- 
 nition, etc. I sent word to Weaver that he was to accompany 
 me, and asked him to keep my loads until I came up. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Hooper were now living in Mr. Anstruther's house. 
 
 In the afternoon a letter came in from Weaver reporting 
 heavy firing in the direction of Magarini shambas. 
 
 Next (November 7) morning, when I mustered my people, I
 
 18o TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 had. as I said, about fifty. I gave out thirty-two Remingtons 
 and two Sniders, and for the rest, Enfield muzzle-loaders, and 
 served each man with twenty rounds of amunition. I was 
 much i)leased with the readiness and zeal shown by the 
 ^lagarini people, who had marched down in the night. We 
 got to Weaver's camp about one o'clock, and found Mr. Burt 
 there. Here I heard that the Witu people were supposed to 
 be at Merikano, only about three hours from Jelori, and that 
 messengers were passing down to the Liwali of Takaungu. 
 
 We pushed on in the afternoon, sending two askaris ahead 
 with a Swahili letter to the Mission catechist at Jelori to say 
 we were coming, and telling him to summon all the Giryama 
 chiefs to meet us. Weaver, going on ahead with the vanguard, 
 got a start when he came upon an old camp below Sekoki 
 Hill full of armed men ; they turned out however to be the 
 Wa-Gir}'ama who had come to meet us with the catechist. 
 They were all ready for war with naked arrows in their hands, 
 and said their chiefs would come next day for a big shauri. 
 
 We at once set all our people to strengthen the boma, as, 
 if the report were correct, the Witu force would attack Jelori 
 in the morning. Weaver and I arranged that one of us should 
 always be on the alert, night and day, and we divided the 
 twenty-four hours into watches. The outposts, one ahead and 
 one behind, were visited every hour day and night, eight men 
 being placed at each during the day and sixteen at night. 
 
 Having made the boma secure, we cleared away all bush 
 and trees as far as the river, of \\'hich we now had a view. It 
 became dreadfully hot inside the boma, as the high fence all 
 round excluded every breeze, and our tents were so like an 
 oven in temperature that we had to throw water over the 
 smaller one to keep the inside cool, being afraid lest the 
 ammunition stored there should get over-heated. 
 
 On the 1 0th I was very busy making shauri and alliances 
 with the Wa-Kamba, and Wa-Giryama. The latter came into 
 camp over 3(X) strong with their chief, singing their war- 
 songs and afterwards going through their war-dance. The 
 Wa-Kahoma and Wa-Choni tribes also declared themselves 
 ready now and at any time to take up arms for the Compan)'. 
 There was no doubt that the people were in earnest, and all
 
 X TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 183 
 
 the villages on both sides of the Sabaki were beating their 
 war-drums. 
 
 I had asked for fifteen soldiers to garrison No. 2 Stockade, 
 and fifteen Beluchis now arrived from Mombasa. They made 
 a most timely addition to our force, which now mustered eighty- 
 one guns. Mr. Burt also arrived from Melindi the same day, 
 and in the evening the Wasania head-man returned from a 
 reconnaissance beyond Makongeni, reporting all quiet and no 
 signs of a hostile party anywhere. Weaver astonished them 
 all considerably by exploding dynamite cartridges in the Sabaki 
 and killing no end of fish. 
 
 Next day, in the presence of Mr. Burt (who acted as in- 
 terpreter) and the various chiefs, I held an inquiry into the 
 origin of the report which had caused all this alarm and trouble. 
 I traced its source to some evil-disposed natives, who had given 
 a false alarm, hoping thus to scare Europeans away. With 
 the approval of the native chiefs I arrested the ringleader Ngoa, 
 and sent him down to the coast to be tried. 
 
 As soon as the strain was over, Weaver and I proceeded 
 straight to bed the moment dinner was over, and went off into 
 a dead sleep. Next morning I receiv'ed a letter recalling me 
 to Melindi. I started at once, leaving W^eaver at the camp, 
 and arrived there at 5 p.m., meeting Mr. and Mrs. Hooper, who 
 were returning once more to Jelori. I was very busy for the 
 next day or two preparing for my original expedition to the 
 stockade, and at length started on November 16 with thirty- 
 eight people, including the fifteen Beluchi askaris. The heat 
 during the march was excessive. When I reached a shamba 
 where I was to await Weaver's arrival for breakfast, how glad 
 I was to get some coco-nuts ! the last I should taste for some 
 time. Ramazan had been drinking too much eau-de-cologne 
 at Melindi, the Company having prohibited the importation of 
 spirituous liquors, and he simply collapsed in the heat from the 
 effects of his dissipation, and could hardly crawl along. After 
 a long wait, Weaver at last turned up ; he had been having an 
 awful time with his people, a lot of them being drunk with the 
 native coco-nut toddy, and a good many more had deserted. 
 I left him a couple of my askaris to hunt up his absentees, and 
 got to Jelori at dusk, where I had to put up my tent myself, as
 
 i84 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA niAP. 
 
 Ramazan was miles behind. Weaver tiirnecl up just as I was 
 sitting clown to dinner. Next morning I left him here with 
 about thirty men to clear the road from Jelori to Makongeni, 
 and pushed on in advance with my porters. 
 
 The next stage of the journey — to M'Lengo-Baya — was very 
 hot and tr}'ing ; we reached it about 1 2.30 p.m. On arriving at 
 Makongeni, I sent for the Watoro head-men and explained the 
 object of my journey, saying that the Company expected the 
 Watoro to help in supplying porters. They said that most of 
 their people were now awa)^ in the Wa-Giryama country and 
 in Fuladoyo, but I succeeded in obtaining thirty-five men, and 
 told them to try and get more. 
 
 On moving my tent to another site I discovered, underneath 
 my bed, a centipede and two scorpions — the latter of a light 
 yellow colour. 
 
 There was a good deal to be done in sending to and fro to 
 bring up all the loads I was taking to the stockade, many 
 journeys being necessary, owing to insufficiency of porters. 
 I was also purchasing extensive supplies at Makongeni, and 
 had to build a shed to store them in. 
 
 I had a great deal of trouble with the Watoro. In the first 
 place as to wages, they deferred agreeing on the matter until 
 the men already engaged — the thirty-five referred to above — 
 came back from Jelori. The next development was that none 
 came at all. I sent repeated messages, and one answer was 
 that the head-man, M'Soma, had kept the wages I had already 
 paid. I was resolved to have it out with them once for all, 
 and summoned all the head-men and the other people to attend. 
 They then apologized for not sending men before, saying their 
 people were afraid to go. I told them I was tired of excuses, 
 and asked them bluntly, would they give the people or would 
 they not ? They answered that they were the Company's 
 people. I said, if so, they should show it by supph'ing the help 
 required. If not, I added, I would leave at once, and let them 
 beware, for now that the road to No. 2 Stockade was being 
 opened, the Arabs would soon be passing up and down, and if 
 they refused men they could not look to the Company for 
 further friendship. 
 
 This hint had the desired effect. The)' ])romised to give
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA i8: 
 
 me the men, and I told them to do so at once. They sent 
 messengers to the head-men of a big village who had a number 
 of men ; but another day elapsed before I could get any 
 definite number, and then they sent me twenty. I agreed to 
 give them fourteen rupees a month, the regular porter rate, 
 but I told M'Soma that until all the promised men turned up 
 I should take him with me as a hostage. The head-man begged 
 me to let him remain to go round to the different villages and 
 hunt up porters, but I declined. However, if I had not been 
 able to get all the men I wanted, I had managed to buy a 
 plentiful supply of food for the use of the Swahili porters 
 coming up with the Railway Surve}'ors. My camp had 
 become a regular market for the sale of " unga," as maize- 
 flour is called, and the Watoro were in high glee at doing such 
 a brisk trade. M'Soma told me that when the road was cut to 
 the stockade there would be no trouble in getting any number 
 of men. I hoped it would be so ! 
 
 Weaver arrived on the last day of my stay at Makongeni, 
 having cleared the road so far. Our arrangements were now 
 for me to push on again with all the men I could get, taking 
 with me as many loads as possible, and after getting the 
 stockade repaired and sheds erected for storing the supplies, 
 to return to Makongeni ; Weaver meanwhile pushing on with 
 the road as rapidly as he could. When this was completed 
 we were to combine all our men and carry up the remainder 
 of the loads as quickly as possible. 
 
 At 1 1 a.m., on November 26, I started from Makongeni, 
 taking M'Soma and two other head-men with me. We halted 
 for the night by the Sabaki in my old camping-ground. 
 
 Early the next morning Aziz, the native officer in command 
 of the Beluchi soldiers, rejoined me with nine more Watoro, 
 making up my number to twenty-nine, including the two 
 head-men. We started off along the same path that I had 
 followed on my first visit, but a wonderful change had now^ 
 taken place in the appearance of the country owing to the 
 copious north-east rains. Where all before was burnt and 
 dried up, there was now beautiful green grass. 
 
 The path over the grass plains and open country, though 
 much overgrown, was visible enough, but thrt)ugh the bush it
 
 i86 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA chap 
 
 was very difficult to find. Heavy clouds had been <yathering 
 overhead, and presently a violent thunderstorm burst with a 
 heavy downpour of rain, and shortly afterwards we managed 
 to miss the path in the very same place where I got lost last 
 time. I went off with a few men in one direction to look for 
 it, but after awhile we were recalled by a shout that the others 
 had found it, so I followed the porters over a faint track 
 leading nearly north, through thick thorny bush, which at 
 last developed into heavy forest with fine trees thickly hung 
 with creepers. 
 
 After a time I came upon my people alread}' camped, with 
 fires lit, and my tent pitched. I had intended going further, 
 but the Watoro porters evident!}' thought they had come far 
 enough. 
 
 This was the thickest forest I had yet seen ; the trees com- 
 pletely hid the sky, and were matted everywhere with gigantic 
 creepers. We were right on the Sabaki again, and I went 
 dou-n to look at the river, which was here fairly straight up 
 and down, a full muddy stream, with grass and forest on both 
 sides, and good soil. 
 
 Next morning, on resuming the march, we found the road 
 so impassably overgrown that it became a case of literally 
 hacking our way through the bush. Our only guidance being 
 old cuts on the trees made by previous caravans passing 
 through this heavy bush, it was necessary to constantly search 
 out our way, and several , times we were brought to a stand- 
 still for a considerable period. The path at first followed the 
 Sabaki, now very full with yellow water, the banks being low 
 and sandy, and at intervals showing a good deal of stone. 
 The banks were generally bordered with tall reedy grass, with 
 a background of heavy forest and dense undergrowth, followed 
 b}' thick thorny bush with a good deal of cactus and aloe. 
 About eleven o'clock we lost the road altogether in the dense 
 undergrowth close to the river, and after halting for break- 
 fast we pushed on again, myself, as well as the others, cutting 
 the path before us. Leaving the river we followed the track 
 of a path through the same difficulties, and then, after passing 
 through some open country and rising ground, whilst looking 
 among the scrub and cactus for the road, I caught a glimpse
 
 X TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 187 
 
 to the west of a solitary and comparatively high peak. We 
 next struck through a large flat grass plain, which appeared, 
 from the numerous water-holes, to be submerged during the 
 wet season. We had great difficulty in finding the path on 
 the other side, the numerous game-tracks making it doubly 
 difficult to distinguish it At last we struck the Sabaki again 
 at a narrower part where it had a more rapid current. There 
 was a bank of stone on the south side, and on the north a 
 fringe of high timber trees. I noticed that Hyphaene, or dum 
 palms, generally grew near the river, and we had also passed 
 a great deal of cactus and thorny creeper. As it was now 
 getting late we camped here for the night, keeping big fires 
 alight to scare the lions. 
 
 Next day we had to face the same ordeal of cutting our 
 way through dense bush, containing much cactus and aloe 
 and a great many Hyph<xne palms. There were several large 
 open grass glades which made it extremel}- difficult for us to 
 find the path at the other side. Amongst other discomforts, 
 some of the men were disabled by cactus sap getting into 
 their eyes, which causes great irritation, and blinds one for 
 the time being. The general aspect of the countr)' passed 
 through ma}- be summarized as dense low bush with good 
 soil. 
 
 In the afternoon the appearance of the country changed 
 for the worse, the soil became gravelly and stony, with scat- 
 tered low thorny bush. Here, at short intervals, we passed 
 two Masai war-paths going north towards the Sabaki — the 
 Masai being raiders of cattle, their routes are, as a rule, 
 determined by the supplies of water. I found the heads and 
 skins of two buffaloes killed by lions, and the pieces of skin 
 were appropriated by my porters to make into shoes. I 
 was continually troubled by the Watoro head-men wanting 
 to stop when we struck the Sabaki, protesting that there was 
 no more water for miles and males ahead ! As on the day 
 before, it was again a case of groping our way through the 
 thick thorny bush only guided by a few old knife-cuts in the 
 trees, and our difficulties were much increased by the frequent 
 obliteration of the path by the tracks of buffalo and other 
 larcre grame. Late in the afternoon I obtained a cfood view
 
 TRAX'ELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 of the counti")- from some high ground, looking to the north- 
 east. The Sabaki here made an immense curve, and the 
 cf)untry, as far as the eye could see, was the same dense low 
 bush, with the same fringe of Hyphcnene palms and tall trees 
 on both sides of the river. Later in the day I again descried 
 the solitar)- hill seen before, and which the Watoro informed 
 me was called Logi. I camped again by the river-bank that 
 da}', and after being obliged once to get up to quell a fearful 
 row amongst the askaris, the rest of the night was disturbed 
 only by a few^ howling hyaenas. 
 
 Next morning, after the usual doctoring of sick porters, we 
 started again through much the same kind of country, which 
 by degrees became more open. We kept close to the river 
 all day. The course of the Sabaki was always distinguishable 
 by its fringe of tall trees — generally tamarinds and Hyphaene 
 palms — the latter being often so numerous as to form groves. 
 This day the Sabaki had been running like a mountain 
 stream over a rocky bed, and in man)' places the face of the 
 bank on the south side was a regular wall of granite and flint, 
 with the invariable shore of white sand. The water was still 
 very yellow. Whenever the path left the river the character 
 of the vegetation and soil changed at once to sparse and 
 scattered thorny scrub, with sandy or gravelly soil, the country 
 being generally very flat \\'ith here and there a slight dip, 
 into which the path descended by a gravelly or stony drop. 
 I passed a great many large patches of slab-rock, and in the 
 afternoon tramped over a good deal of heavy white sand near 
 the river. I saw a good many j^ieces of quartz lying about, 
 and noticed a tree with a good deal of orchella weed growing 
 upon it. Where we stopped for breakfast under a tamarind 
 tree by the Sabaki — which here ran in two channels forming 
 an island — the ground was solid granite, and indeed the rocky 
 nature of the river-bed just here, as well as of the adjoining 
 land, is ver)' remarkable. 
 
 The sixth and concluding day of the march led through very 
 open country, with a good deal of umbrella-shaped mimosa 
 and "n'konge," the same variety of Sanscvicria dXo^. The soil 
 was at first red, and afterwards ])oor and gravell)' with a good 
 deal of quartz. I saw a good man)- rhinoceros tracks about
 
 X TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 1S9 
 
 here. The day's journey was generally through flat country, 
 bush, and occasional patches of grass, with a good many 
 black-looking boulders about. The soil was poor and sandy, 
 sometimes improving to brown. Shortly after passing a 
 grass glade one of my men suddenly pointed out the stockade 
 ahead. I fired a few shots to let the weary porters behind, 
 who had begun to think we should never reach it, know that 
 we had at last arrived— after five and a half days' most fatiguing 
 march through bush and cacti.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 AT NO. 2 STOCKADE ON THE SABAKI RIVER 
 
 At Work on the Stockade^Climate — The Return Journey — The Sabaki in 
 Flood — Weaver's Road — A Flooded Country — Makongeni again — 
 Damp Quarters — Mosquitoes — Back to the Stockade — Lions — Carry- 
 ing up the Stores — Meet Mr. P^oaker — M'Soma and the Arabs — A 
 Memorable Christmas — Tobacco and Castor-oil Plants^Illness of 
 Weaver — Sabaki Flies — Arrival of the Survey Caravan — Unwonted 
 Luxuries — ^Runaway Porters — A Long March — An Offer to the Watoro 
 — Giryama Customs — The End of my Expedition. 
 
 The stockade was situated close to the river. It was a 
 small earthwork, and was still in a wonderful state of 
 preservation. I need not enter into the details of putting it 
 into order for the Survey party. The whole thing was 
 completed after seven days' hard work — seventy men being 
 employed at it — sometimes interrupted by rain, or delayed by 
 the difficulty of obtaining grass for thatching the sheds. I 
 built two as storehouses, and a house for the askaris within 
 the stockade, and then proceeded to repair the earthworks and 
 defences generally, so as to render it safe against attacks by 
 Masai raiders. The Watoro, although troublesome in some 
 ways, proved excellent workmen, a fact largely due, I think, 
 to my working amongst them myself On December 7 all 
 was finished. The two sheds had drains cut round them, 
 with a flooring of strong sticks, to pile the rice makandas 
 upon. The top of the inner bank of the stockade was covered 
 with a thick breastwork of thorn bush 2 feet high. The 
 entire circumference of the stockade was 230 feet outside 
 the ditch ; the latter was 4^ feet deep, 5 feet wide at the 
 bottom, and 10 feet at the top, with a sloping earth-bank 
 
 190
 
 CH. XI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 19I 
 
 8 feet high above it. The thorn breastwork was carried 
 right round the stockade, and the whole presented a very 
 strong and compact appearance. The Watoro, as I have 
 said, worked capitally, and I never had to say a word to 
 them the whole time I was there ; at night, however, they 
 were certainly a nuisance, for if left alone they would go on 
 singing, talking, and shouting to unearthly hours. 
 
 During my stay the temperature ranged from 70 to 73' at 
 6 a.m. (the first morning it was 78 at 5.30 a.m.), from yY^ to 
 84" at 2 p.m., and from 73"^ to 75" at 6 p.m. There were 
 frequent and heavy thunderstorms with wind and rain, which 
 interrupted our work a good deal. 
 
 The country round the stockade was extremely flat, with 
 inferior gravelly soil, umbrella-shaped mimosa trees, and 
 glades of good grass with better soil, and near the Sabaki 
 the invariable fringe of high trees. Although there were 
 tracks of rhinoceros and elephant visible, the absence of all 
 game in this place was remarkable — due, I believe, to the 
 Wasania, of whom I heard there was a settlement at Logi 
 Hill. I only saw one antelope. In the middle of dinner 
 one evening a couple of hippos bellowed quite close to the 
 camp, but we were unable to obtain sight of them. 
 
 Everything now being completed, I was ready to return to 
 Makongeni again. I paraded the eight Beluchi askaris, 
 and handed over the charge of the stockade to Aziz, 
 their native officer, leaving him sufficient supplies until my 
 return, and directing him to keep a watchful guard. I started 
 off again with the rest of my people on the morning of 
 December 8. 
 
 Soon after leaving, and whilst crossing the large grass glade 
 below the stockade, I came upon six large water-buck, but 
 they were off before we could get a shot. We now came 
 upon numerous tracks of game on the path, for the rains had 
 transformed the whole country into fine rich pasturage. Going 
 was, however, very heavy, as the rain still continued, heavy 
 downpours occurring at frequent intervals throughout the day 
 and night. The Sabaki was in heavy flood, wath a tremendous 
 current of thick yellow water, so high that the rocky channels 
 were all submerged. Whilst having breakfast two messengers
 
 192 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 arrived with a letter from Weaver, who had already cut 
 twenty miles of road from Makongeni, with forty people. In 
 the evening I reached our intended camping-place ahead of 
 my people, and had a long wait before they came up. I was 
 again disturbed by a hippo during dinner, but could not find 
 him in the dark. 
 
 Next morning we were again in rich country, fine forest 
 land with some green glades and a rich chocolate soil. The 
 country in many places was under water, and through one 
 open glade there was a regular river running. The general 
 appearance everywhere was most luxuriant after the rain. 
 I came upon Weaver and his forty people hard at work on the 
 road at about ten o'clock. He had now done over twenty miles, 
 and I estimated he had twenty-five miles more to cut ; when 
 this was done, the supplies could be got up to the stockade 
 from Makongeni in a two days' march. We arranged that 
 when the road was finished. Weaver should build a shed for 
 the reception of stores at the place where I had camped the 
 preceding night, and send his people to carry the loads 
 thence to the stockade. 
 
 I left Weaver at about 2 p.m., and waded through a large 
 grass glade flooded to a depth of 3 feet, next passing over 
 a stony rise and some forest, after which the land became 
 flatter, and gradually deeper and deeper under water until 
 it was well up to my middle ; and so it continued for a 
 considerable distance. After passing through some heavy 
 forest, I came in the evening upon Weaver's old camp, the 
 huts of which were very welcome to my people, who had 
 spent the night before in the rain. At six o'clock the 
 thermometer was 72'". 
 
 On the third day of my return journey to Makongeni the 
 thermometer readings at 6 a.m., 2 p.m., and 6 p.m. were 
 respectively 72°, 85°, and 78'. The weather in the morning 
 appeared to have cleared up. Weaver's road was certainly 
 a great improvement. At first we traversed heavy forest, 
 followed by open glades of rich grass, some very extensive, 
 and all more or less flooded from knee to waist deep, so that 
 we again had to wade. Following the Sabaki, now flowing 
 with a ver\- full and fast current of discoloured water, we
 
 XI tra\'p:ls in east Africa 193 
 
 came upon another flooded grass plain, where the water 
 gradually increased in depth until it reached my neck. I 
 took advantage of being so wet to have a good swim, the first 
 I had been able to enjoy in Africa. Fortunately none of our 
 loads got wet. 
 
 I passed some Giryama Indian corn patches, growing 
 in remarkably rich soil. For about twenty miles above 
 Makongeni the country was rich, fine forest and thick under- 
 growth alternating with open flat glades of good black loamy 
 soil, now covered with luxuriant grass. I reached Makongeni 
 at about 10 a.m., my people firing guns to announce our return. 
 
 I remained at Makongeni till the 15th (five days), making 
 arrangements for the conveyance of the stores up to the half- 
 way shed, and buying further provisions. The weather was 
 utterly miserable, the ground a mass of liquid mud from the 
 constant torrents of rain, and my tent was in a veritable 
 quagmire. The mosquitoes, too, were an intolerable nuisance; 
 notwithstanding curtains and fires, they gave me very little 
 rest. They were able to sting through a canvas chair with a 
 newspaper folded upon it ! 
 
 I had an interview with the principal head-man, M'Soma, 
 whom two da)'s' sojourn in the bush had rendered most 
 amenable, concerning the transport work, and I bluntl}' told 
 him I was going to have no nonsense this time, as the road 
 was cut now, and the men could carry loads to the half-way 
 shed in one da}'. However, I found the people willing 
 enough to come forward, and leaving Ramazan in charge at 
 Makongeni with instructions to send two askaris up with 
 each safari (or cara\-an), and to accompany the last one 
 himself, I started on December 15, with sixty-six porters. 
 As I had no askaris with me, I had a hard task to keep the 
 cara\-an in proper order ; the Watoro were always falling 
 behind to drink or sit down, and just outside Makongeni they 
 all halted for half-an-hour to eat some cooked " unga " their 
 women had prepared for them. We made a detour to avoid 
 the flooded glade, but all the same we had to wade knee- 
 deep through slushy water. The whole of this day we 
 had to tramp through a great deal of water — in one place 
 the road was submerged waist-deep for over a hundred 
 
 o
 
 194 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 yards — and what with the holes and thick mud made by- 
 hippos, it was very difficult to keep one's feet. We reached 
 our camping-place, twenty miles from Makongeni, at 5 p.m. 
 During the night I heard two lions roaring on the opposite 
 side of the Sabaki ; they were the first I had heard, and 
 certainly on a calm, silent, moonlit night the sound is very 
 awesome. 
 
 I had spoken sharply to the head-man about the \'ery 
 indifferent marching of the Watoro the day before, and my 
 words had a good effect, as they stepped out better next day. 
 We got over the remainder of the distance to the half-\\'ay 
 camp in four hours. 
 
 Here I found Weaver had built a good strong shed, where I 
 piled all the loads, and then sent all the porters, including my 
 own men, back to last night's camp, where they were to sleep 
 that night, starting again for Makongeni next day for fresh 
 loads. 
 
 The weather had been very hot, the thermometer readings 
 for the day in the shade being — 6 a.m., 70 ; 2 p.m., 92' ; 
 6 p.m., 80. 
 
 The roaring of the lions at night frightened my small party 
 of six men so much that I was obliged to keep two big fires 
 burning all night to reassure them. 
 
 I remained here, superintending the forwarding of the 
 stores to the stockade, until January 7, 1892 (twent)'-four 
 days). 
 
 The temperature in the morning during this time was 70 
 to jG, afternoon 90 to 97 \ and evening 74" to 84 . During 
 my stay I traversed all the country around, which possessed 
 much the same characteristics as that already described, with 
 the addition of a good deal of n'konge aloe. 
 
 On December 20, on returning to my camp after one of 
 my excursions, I found that Mr. Foaker, one of the Compan}''s 
 officers, had arrived from Machako's, a station on the Uganda 
 road about 250 miles inland, with a party of t\vent\--four 
 porters and sixteen askaris. He had left Machako's on Novem- 
 ber 26, and had been twenty-five days on the road, on his 
 way to join the Railway Survey part)-. In coming down. Mr. 
 Foaker had had to cut his \va)- thrfuigh to No. 2 Stockade, the
 
 XI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 195 
 
 path being completely overgrown ; it had taken him six days to 
 reach that stockade from the preceding one. Game, especially 
 rhinoceros, he reported as very plentiful, particularly above 
 the junction of the Tzavo with the Sabaki. He once saw six 
 lions feeding on a water-buck ; all were maneless, but they 
 bolted when they caught sight of him. There were no 
 buffaloes, the cattle epidemic having killed them all, and 
 numberless skulls lay along the wayside. Once the caravan 
 was scattered by a rhinoceros charge ; they had come right 
 upon two, which immediately charged them, compelling 
 Foaker and all his people to scale a bank to escape. One of 
 the rhinos actually chased Foaker along the top ; he only 
 escaped by rapidly sliding down again. On the road they 
 met a large party of Wa-Kamba (natives of the country around 
 Machako's) going to Mombasa to sell cattle, and at first 
 thought they were Masai. Two hours before reaching 
 No. 2 Stockade there had been numbers of elephants on the 
 path, ploughing it up. 
 
 Another incident was the receipt of news by one of my 
 caravans from Makongeni, that four Arabs had come up there 
 from Melindi, and had gone into every house searching for 
 runaway slaves ; but the slaves in question had gone on to 
 Fuladoyo. M'Soma wished to fight the Arabs, but I sent 
 word to him to await my return, when I would inquire into 
 the matter. 
 
 Up to the 24th I had received four caravan loads of stores 
 from Makongeni, and on this day the first party of Weaver's 
 porters came down, having completed the road to the 
 stockade, whereupon I began the final \\ork of transporting 
 the loads up to it. 
 
 This half-way camp was an awful place for deadly snakes. 
 I had thought the flies bad enough, but they were worse, and 
 the reader will agree with me when I give him one day's 
 experience. This is how I spent Christmas Day. 
 
 In the morning, just after I had got up, I saw one going 
 under the mats of my tent, and on lifting them up I found a hole 
 under the head of my bed. Shortly afterwards my servant 
 found another coiled up amongst my boots ; it escaped before 
 he could kill it. In the afternoon, whilst I awis sittincr reading
 
 196 TR.'WKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap 
 
 in the store shed, which I found cooler than my tent, with a 
 cup of tea on the table by my side, I suddenly heard my 
 spoon jingle, and looking up hastily, I saw a large green 
 " mamba '' with its nast)- flat head over the tea-cup, its body 
 curled round m}- chair and table. I gave an involuntary 
 jump, the snake turned rapidly towards me with a hiss ; I 
 remained stock still, then to my intense relief it slowly 
 uncoiled and glided away. I am not ashamed to say I was 
 in a ghastly funk, and felt quite unnerved for the moment. 
 Half-an-hour afterwards I heard a rustling at my feet, and 
 looking down I saw a }'ellow-spotted brown snake gliding 
 between my legs ; this was too much of a good thing, so I 
 called out to my people, and we had a regular hunt, pulling 
 out every rice-bag and killing several of the brutes. 
 
 My cook now came forward, and told me that he had an 
 infallible remedy for preventing any more snakes coming in — 
 might he practise it ? I said b)' all means, and waited with 
 much curiosity to see what he would do, but lo and behold ! 
 the infallible remedy merely consisted in sticking pieces of 
 lighted cotton cloth at intervals round the camp ! 
 
 Before I left this " half-way shed " I saw another kind of 
 snake quite new to me coiled on some rocks on the river- 
 bank ; it was of a dark red colour and about 3 feet long, 
 and from its flat head evidentl)^ poisonous. 
 
 One day I discovered a fe\\' tobacco-plants growing in a 
 fine grass glade a short distance from camp, which, I con- 
 cluded, had sprung from the seeds of tobacco originally 
 planted by the Wasania in an abandoned shamba near here. 
 That the tobacco, which was most healthy, should have with- 
 stood neglect and the growth of grass and bush around it, 
 said much for the adaptability of the soil for its cultivation. 
 Near the same place I also found one or two old castor-oil 
 l^atches, some of them growing in the river-bed itself, and 
 looking extremel)^ health}-. It was on this same morning 
 that I was awakened b}- a tremendous uproar on the other 
 side of the river ; it was caused by an unfortunate baboon that 
 had been seized b)- a leopard, which was dragging it, in spite 
 of its struggles, into the bush. 
 
 During the last few cla}-s I had been greatl}^ worried about
 
 TRAX'ELS IX EAST AFRICA 199 
 
 Weaver, who was up at the stockade; he had been sufiferinf^ 
 for some time from d}'senter)^ and se\'ere attacks of fe\'er : I 
 had repeatedly written to him urging him to return to the coast, 
 but he ahva}'s wrote back that he would not budge until the 
 last load had been delivered at the stockade. However, he 
 got so bad, that when the last loads from Makongeni arrived 
 at my camp he, to my great relief, at last consented to lea\e 
 for Melindi. Poor fellow, he looked so dreadfully worn and 
 ill when he arrived that I really feared he would ne\'er reach 
 Melindi alive ; he had had a tr}'ing time at the stockade, and 
 had been badly bitten b\- some horrid species of horse-fl}', 
 which infests the Sabaki, and which, whilst inflicting a painful 
 sting, at the same time deposits an egg in the flesh. This 
 eventuall}- turns into a maggot and causes a painful sore. 
 Weaver's dog Fan was attacked to such an extent b}- these 
 flies that it had to be shot. 
 
 I felt very much being compelled to send him off alone in 
 such a state, but I could not desert my post until relieved ; 
 however, I tried to do all I could for him, and as he was too 
 weak to walk, I rigged up a sort of hammock out of empty 
 rice-bags and then bade him good-b}'e. He had a ver}^ good 
 servant, who promised me faithfull}' to do his best for him. 
 I am glad to say he got down safely, though he had a terrible 
 journe}', being nearly drowned on the way when carried 
 through the flooded country. He rather alarmed the officers 
 of the Survey caravan, who, as they told me afterwards, 
 wondered in what state they would find me ! 
 
 On January 7, 1892, two days after W^eaver had left me, I 
 started off again for No. 2 Stockade with the last loads, 
 where, having made an inventory of all the stores, I handed 
 the charge of them over to Aziz and his askaris until the 
 arrival of the Survey party. They arrived next day under 
 the command of Captain (now Major) Macdonald, accom- 
 panied by Lieutenant Twining, both of the Ro}-al Engineers, 
 together with a caravan of stores for Kibwezi under a leader 
 named A\-ubu. 
 
 If this ever happens to meet Captain Macdonald's e\-e, 
 I hope he will again accept my cordial thanks for the 
 champagne which he produced at dinner from his limited
 
 200 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 supply of medical comforts. I remember it now, and how good 
 it tasted ! We had some tea in the evening, which I thought 
 delicious, and Captain Macdonald kindly gave me a packet, 
 remarking that it seemed to him of only ordinary quality 
 which he had bought in Mombasa. 
 
 I discovered next morning that my own tea tasted 
 particularly nasty, and on looking at my store I found that it 
 must have got soaked through in one of our wading expedi- 
 tions, as it was now reduced to a pulpy mass. Xo wonder that 
 fresh tea tasted good after drinking this decoction for da\'s! 
 
 With the coming of the Survey party my duties up here 
 were at an end, so wishing them a safe and prosperous 
 journey to Uganda, I was not sorry to bid good-bye to the 
 stockade. I started on my way back the same morning, 
 reaching the half-way camp in the evening. 
 
 As I was sitting outside my tent after dinner, I was 
 surprised by the arrival of twenty-two porters from Ayubu's 
 caravan. I was very nearly arresting them, as they had no 
 letter from Captain Macdonald, but they told me that they 
 had been sent down for some loads of food left by A\-ubu at 
 Makongeni. Believing what they said, I let them pass. But 
 next day a head-man of Ayubu's, who had been sent down to 
 bring in nine porters that had bolted, informed me that the 
 twenty-two porters of yesterday were runaways. Shortly 
 afterwards thirty-eight more arrived, and on being challenged, 
 said they were going back to Takaungu, as they were only 
 engaged to carry loads up to Xo. 2 Stockade. I said they 
 should not pass, and that I would take them back to the 
 stockade, and I put some of my people to guard the road 
 below ; but the runawa}'s broke away like so many rabbits, 
 running into the bush in every direction, and so got off. I at 
 once despatched a messenger to ]\Iakongeni to warn M'Soma to 
 stop them. Then six more arrived ; I took their guns from 
 them, and handed them and their guns over to Ayubu's 
 head-man. This made sixty-six runaways in all. 
 
 ]\Iakongeni was fully thirty miles away, but I told my 
 people we must get there that day, and notwithstanding the 
 heat and the still flooded state of the road, they did exceed- 
 ingly well. I reached my old camping-ground at 7.30 in the
 
 XI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 201 
 
 evening, very tired after the hot thirty miles' march. I at 
 once told M'Soma to put men on the road to stop and catch 
 the runaways, and immediately sent off a messenger to report 
 the matter to the Liwali of Takaungu. 
 
 The following morning, after paying off all my Watoro 
 porters, and handing to each the full amount he had earned, 
 I summoned M'Soma and all the principal head-men to a grand 
 shauri in the afternoon. 
 
 I reminded them of all I had said to them the first time I 
 had come to visit their country, and then told them that I had 
 since been in correspondence with the Administrator at 
 Mombasa, and that I was now empowered by the Company 
 to offer them the following terms — 
 
 1. Their former owners had agreed to accept fifteen dollars 
 in full payment of their freedom. 
 
 2. For those who could not at once pay the money, if 
 willing to accept these terms, work and wages would be found 
 by the Company. 
 
 I dwelt at length on the advantages which the Company's 
 offer placed within their reach, of living in freedom without 
 the dread of recapture hanging over their heads, and pointing 
 out all it meant to them by the opening up of the Sabaki 
 district, and said that I hoped my proposed plantation at 
 Jelori would be the first step towards this new and free life, 
 and that peace and prosperity was now beginning for all. 
 What did they say ? I added that I was prepared to open a 
 list at once in which all who accepted the Company's offer 
 could register their names, giving at the same time their 
 master's name, to whom the redemption money would have 
 to be paid. 
 
 The head-men listened most attentively, and aftera discussion 
 amongst themselves, M'Soma informed me that they accepted 
 my proposals with gratitude, referring especially to what I 
 had said concerning the proposed plantation at Jelori ; they all 
 promised to come in to have their names registered, but the 
 people living on the north bank would have to wait till the 
 river, still in high flood, was fordable. 
 
 I was very busy throughout the following day, and by the 
 evening had written down the names of over one hundred and
 
 TR.WKLS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 thirt}' people. I found them most ignorant as to time and 
 dates, circumstances of which they appeared to ha\-e the 
 vaguest notions. The answer to the question, when the}- ran 
 away, was either " I don't know," or " A long time ago." 
 
 I heard that evening that fifteen more of Captain Macdonald's 
 runaway porters had been caught by Salim bin Hamisi's men ; 
 shortly afterwards A}'ubu the head-man arrived from the 
 stockade, having only seven men left. He was going down 
 to Takaungu to arrange about new porters. 
 
 Heavy rains still continued, and the Sabaki was higher than 
 ever, so, as my \\'ork here was over, and I was anxious to get 
 back to Magarini, I told M'Soma that I would arrange with 
 Mr. Hooper at Jelori to register the names of the people living 
 on the north bank, who must go down to him for this 
 purpose. On my vray to the coast I was again the recipient 
 of much kindness and hospitality from the Hoopers. I had 
 brought M'Soma down to the coast with me to receive a well- 
 earned reward for all his endeavours, for latterl)^ he had done 
 very well indeed. 
 
 Whilst at Jelori Mr. Hooper gave me some interesting 
 information concerning the Wa-Gir)'ama people ; it appeared 
 to be their custom, whenever a child was born feet foremost, 
 for it to be handed over to the " medicine man," who took it 
 to the forest, leaving it to die there. The same thing happened 
 if a child's front teeth grew before its lower ones ; this is con- 
 sidered most unlucky, and this child is also cast away to die ; 
 the\- don't kill them, but leave the poor unfortunates either to 
 die of star\-ation and exposure, or to be eaten b}- wild animals. 
 Similar cruel customs prevail amongst man)' of the other 
 native tribes. Mr. Hooper had already done a great deal to 
 check them, and had also brought the subject before the 
 Administrator. 
 
 A Giryama a short while ago had appealed to Mr. Hooper 
 in a case of this kind on behalf of his child. From what I 
 observed and was told b}- Mr. Hooper, it seemed that the 
 \Va-Gir)-ama would willingl}- take their various complaints 
 before a European, but the}' objected to the jurisdiction of the 
 Liwalis, for the}' argued, " If we have a case against a Swaliili 
 arc we croinLr to let another Swahili tr\' it ?"
 
 XI TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 203 
 
 I left for Melindi on January 20. Owing to the heavy 
 floods, the whole of the flat land between the Sabaki and Lake 
 Jelori at the foot of Sekoki Hill was under water, the only 
 means of crossing being the Mission canoe. 
 
 How glad we all were to see Melindi and the sea once 
 more after three months in the bush ! I was also very glad 
 to find Weaver comfortabl}' established in the Company's 
 house, looking much better, but still very ill. He shortly 
 afterwards left for Mombasa and took a cruise in the 
 s.s. Jiiba, but his system had got so thoroughly weakened 
 that it took him a long time to rally, and it was not until 
 he went to Zanzibar for final treatment and advice, that he 
 quite recovered from the effects of his trip up to No. 2 
 Stockade. 
 
 I onl)- remained in Melindi long enough to settle various 
 matters connected with m)- late expedition, and then left for 
 Magarini.
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 su(;(;estions for the develoi'.ment of the coast 
 lands and sabaki district 
 
 Fertility of the Country — The Coast-lands— DecHning Cultivation — The 
 Labour Question — Tamul Coolies— Ploughs and Draught Animals — 
 Products— Cotton — Coco-nuts — Bananas — Silk - cotton Trees — Man- 
 grove Timber — The Sabaki as a Water-way — Irrigation — Timber — 
 Indiarubber : the various species — Nutmegs and Cacao — Castor-oil — 
 Fibre-producing Plants {Sanscvierias)—Vr\(zt^ of Fibres — Ramie 
 (jrass — Pineapples. 
 
 In the foregoing chapters I have tried to give as acctirate 
 a description as possible of the chief characteristics and 
 qualities of the soil of that typical portion of the coimtry 
 extending from the coast between Takaungu and Melindi, for 
 an average distance of fifty miles into the interior. That the 
 country is, as a whole, exceedingly rich and fertile there can be 
 no possible doubt ; in the coast-lands especially we possess 
 an extent of territory which for productiveness and richness 
 of soil it would be difficult to equal, whilst in the extensive 
 forests extending along the banks of the Sabaki there are 
 possibilities of future wealth and prosperity which only 
 require development to be realized. 
 
 In dealing with the best method of developing the various 
 resources and capabilities of the country, I shall refer first to 
 the coast-lands, and afterwards to the interior. 
 
 The stretch of country lying between Melindi and 
 Takaungu is, in the northern portions, extensively cultivated. 
 There are large coco-nut, mango, and banana plantations, 
 also a considerable amount of open cultivation of seed 
 and oil grains, with a few minor j^roducts. But as we 
 
 204
 
 COCO-NUT TKIiES I\ THK MEMXDI DISTRICT.
 
 CH. XII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 207 
 
 proceed southward cultivation decreases, although the qualit}^ 
 of the soil is equally rich and fertile, and it is only in 
 the immediate neighbourhood of the towns and villages 
 (which are far from numerous) that cultivated areas are to be 
 found ; and this state of things extends down to Takaungu 
 itself. I was particularly struck with the large area of 
 abandoned clearings that I passed through in this part of the 
 country, and by the fact that coco-nuts also decreased in a 
 marked degree, comparatively few plantations being found 
 round Takaungu. 
 
 In looking for the causes of this state of things, the 
 solution is easily found in the system of cultivation by slave 
 labour. Prior to the advent of the East Africa Company, slavery 
 flourished undisturbed, and it was an easy matter for rich Arabs 
 and Swahilis to cultivate extensive tracts of land, but as slaves 
 became more and more difficult to j^rocure, land naturally 
 went out of cultivation. Thus we find a lessened area of 
 cultivation concurrent with a diminishing slave population. 
 The same fact will, I think, explain the absence of coco- 
 nut plantations in the southern districts ; the non-success of 
 this cultivation being, in my opinion, entirely owing to want 
 of care and sufficient labour. 
 
 The natives do undoubtedly recognize the present unsatis- 
 factory state of affairs, and would, I think, gladly avail them- 
 selves of newer and better methods of agriculture ; whilst 
 surely it is one of our first duties, having stopped the slave 
 trade, to show them the way ! 
 
 As regards future labour, no anxiety need be felt, for the 
 country possesses the foundation of an abundant and useful 
 supply, in the numerous aboriginal tribes inhabiting the 
 borderland between the coast-zone and the immediate interior ; 
 for instance, the great agricultural tribes of the \Va-Gir}^ama 
 and Wanika in the Melindi district, whilst to the south are 
 the Wa-Digo, and in the north the numerous Pokohomo tribe 
 on the Tana river, to whom subsequent reference will be 
 made. 
 
 At present the wants of these natives are so few and so 
 easily satisfied, that they do not yet realize the benefits to be 
 derived from steady and continuous labour, but much is to
 
 2o8 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap 
 
 be hoped from the ^rackial spread of civiHzing influences 
 amongst them, and it is a most hopeful sign that these 
 tribes evince a strong desire to settle wherever Europeans 
 aj^pear. 
 
 Moreover, as the country is opened up, and the richness of 
 its soil and adaptability to the growth of the most important 
 tropical products is realized, East Africa will naturally follow 
 the example of Ceylon, Mauritius, Natal and the West Indies, 
 and can look to India for the extra labour she would require. 
 The introduction of foreign labour would prove not only a 
 sensible relief to the poorer and more congested agricultural 
 districts of India, but an immeasurable advantage to the 
 indigenous population, b}' bringing home to them by example 
 the manifold advantages of stead}-, peaceful cultivation and 
 labour. 
 
 When I was in Africa this prospect was more remote than 
 it is now. I thought then (and it is just as applicable to-day) 
 that as an initial measure the introduction of a small force of 
 about twent}' or forty Tamul labourers would be of immense 
 help in developing the agricultural resources of the districts 
 I had examined. 
 
 As I suggested at the time in my reports,^ these might 
 
 ^ Ext7'nct from Rep07't : 
 MKMORANDl'M OF NUMBER OF MEN REQUIRED ON A MODEL FARM, 
 WITH AN ESTIMATE OF PROBABLE RATES OF PAW 
 
 No. Rupees. 
 
 1 Overseer in full charge of Indians, at forty rupees, to be in- 
 
 creased to fifty rupees in two years ... ... ... 40 
 
 3 Skilled men for tobacco-curing (two Factory, one field-work) 
 
 at twenty rupees ... ... ... ... 60 
 
 2 Trained men from (iovt. Agricultural Farm at Saidapet, 
 
 Madras, at twenty-five rupees ... ... ... ... 50 
 
 2 Men for cotton cultivation (cleaning, pressing, etc.) at twenty 
 
 rupees ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 40 
 
 10 Tamuls to assist above, and to include Ediens (cattle-keep- 
 ing caste), Ryots, and coolies accustomed to plantation 
 work to take charge of nurseries ; pay at ten to fifteen 
 rupees. (The ten Tamuls should l)c induced to bring 
 their families) ... ... ... ... ... ... 150 
 
 18 Total monthly ... 340
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 209 
 
 include a few from the Dindigul and Trichinopoly districts, 
 with a knowledge of tobacco cultivation and curing ; also 
 a few from the Tinnevelly cotton districts, some Ediens 
 (shepherds and cattle-keeping caste), as well as ordinary ryots 
 and coolies accustomed to plantation work. With such 
 people placed upon experimental plantations to show the 
 natives the way, a beginning could be made, and a better 
 mode of cultivation gradually introduced, for on these "model 
 farms " the cultivation of many new products could be carried 
 on and thus introduced amongst the people. 
 
 Ploughs are the first requirement. The free friable soil, 
 with its almost total absence of stones, is particularly adapted 
 for their use, and I feel sure that if once the natives realized 
 the great saving of labour effected by them and their general 
 usefulness, they would readily adopt them. The people are 
 willing to learn, and the large proprietors — men of influence 
 and wealth, such as the Liwalis — would be quite willing 
 to lead the wa}'. The kind wanted are the light Indian ryot 
 ploughs. 
 
 Next comes the question of draught animals. Donkeys 
 could be utilized for drawing the ploughs until native cattle 
 were trained to the work, and the numbers of these could, with 
 care, be largely increased. The country is rich in grasses, 
 notably the guinea-grass so often referred to in the preceding 
 pages, and in dry weather there is the straw from the rice 
 cultivation, besides a large supply of coco-nut poonac, and 
 cotton-seed. If India, a country inferior in every way to East 
 Africa in respect of pasturage and grasses, and having to 
 contend with many virulent and contagious diseases, and in 
 many districts with a long and trying dry season, has been 
 able to keep up successfully a large cattle supply, the same 
 
 I do not consider that more than ten Tamul coolies are required, as 
 Watoro and freed slaves are perfectly able to carry out the rough work of 
 felling, clearing, and opening up forest land. Half of the above Indians 
 to reside at the Experimental Plantations at Jelori and Magarini respec- 
 tively. The Indians to leave India as free emigrants, and on arrival in 
 this country to sigii a tivo years' agreetnent, at the rate of pay previously 
 agreed upon, and binding themsehes to reside \vhere\'er the Company 
 desire.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 could be done in Africa under more favourable conditions.^ 
 Hitherto, cattle have been only esteemed for milking purposes, 
 but let their c^reater value as draught animals once be appre- 
 ciated, much more care and attention will be given to them. 
 
 Of the products known to be well adapted for cultivation, 
 Cotton stands out first in importance, and the vjild cotton 
 plants scattered about the country attest the extreme suit- 
 ability of the soil and climate to its growth. I made a 
 commencement in its cultivation at Magarini, where, though 
 but a small area was planted, and this late in the season, the 
 
 COTTON STUKK SUKU — MAGAKIM PLANTATIONS. 
 
 results were most satisfactory and encouraging. In addition 
 to the suitability of the soil, the cultivation of cotton is 
 admirably adapted to the people, and the Wanika took to it 
 most kindly. The seed is a most useful food for cattle. 
 
 ^ Extract from Report : 
 
 Stock. — I am also desirous of making a commencement with a small 
 herd of Cattle which I would stall feed; and would suggest planting all 
 the mature coco-nut plantations with Guinea-grass. I believe with care 
 much could be done to increase the number of cattle on the coast-lands, 
 and the following extract from the Overland Ceylon Observer of May 30, 
 1862, is most interesting as bearing on this subject — 
 
 " The first means of preserving a cattle stock in health is full feeding. 
 Epidemic diseases almost always originate among the weak and half- 
 starved ; though it may reach the well-fed and healthy by contact, it is less 
 fatal, and spreads less rapidly among these. At one time there was
 
 XII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 213 
 
 I also wish to emphasize the great possibiHties that exist 
 for the extended cultivation of Groiind-mits {AracJiis Jiypogced), 
 so largely grown on the western side of the continent. 
 
 This product is one for which there is always a large and 
 steady demand, and it yields large and immediate returns. 
 In Southern India, it is estimated that the profits on ground- 
 nuts approximate to 150 per cent, on the outlay, or fully four 
 times more than on rice. The soil of the coast-lands is just 
 what is required for its cultivation. 
 
 Much could be done in the districts under review to extend 
 the cultivation of Tobacco, which should become an important 
 industry ; but for this, not only better seed but skilled labour 
 is required. 
 
 I now come to the important matter of Coco-nut cultivation. 
 Regarding the comparative failure of this cultivation in the 
 southern districts, I would suggest the establishment of an 
 experimental plantation in a suitable position, where the 
 people could be shown that the want of proper care is the 
 sole cause of its failure. The plantation need not be large, but 
 merely sufficient to prove this and to stimulate the renewed 
 cultivation of a most useful and valuable product. That the 
 
 almost an annual murrain among the draught bullocks on the Colombo 
 and Kandy road that swept them off in hundreds. For the last seven 
 years such a thing as murrain has scarcely been heard of on the roads, 
 while thousands were taken off in the villages. The cause of this is 
 evident ; the large strong coast bullock has superseded the small native 
 breed on the road ; as the former are trained from their calfliood to dry 
 strong food, the latter refuse everything but green grass food, and prefer 
 picking it up for themselves. Fresh grass alone does not communicate 
 the stamina to stand hard work even when it can be had in abundance in 
 wet weather, and heavy roads fit them for disease. On the other hand, 
 when food is scarce, an insufficient supply is equally productive of the 
 conditions that produce disease. The owner of a coast bullock cannot 
 afford to starve him, as he costs from ^5 to ^12, and immediately falls off 
 in condition and in strength unless he gets dry straw, poonac, and kollu, 
 and is regularly rubbed down and washed, and in fact treated with as 
 much care as a valuable horse. The cattle now generally employed on 
 the roads are strong, fine, well-fed and well-tended animals, some of them 
 within my knowledge costing £2^ per pair ; and while this is the case the 
 occurrence of a serious murrain on the road is among the least probable 
 of possible contingencies."
 
 2 14 TRAVP:LS in east AFRICA chap. 
 
 coco-nut is well suited to the country, the luxuriance of the 
 cared-for trees and their large yield of nuts amply testify, but, 
 as I ha\e remarked before, the coco-nut will not stand neglect; 
 indeed in Ce\-lon there is a well-known native saying, "A 
 coco-nut will not grow out of the sound of the human voice." 
 
 At the time of m>' visit but little if any use was made of 
 the bye-products of the coco-nut tree. The husks were every- 
 where thrown aside as useless, and only, I believe, in Lamu, 
 Patta Island, and to a small extent by the Comoro Island people 
 in Zanzibar, is a little coir rope manufactured. 
 
 The same remarks appl}' to copra — the dried kernel of the 
 nut )-ielding the oil of commerce — and to poo?iac, which is the 
 residue left after extracting the oil, and which forms an im- 
 portant and nourishing cattle-food. Neither is the toddy used 
 for the manufacture of sugar, as in India. 
 
 The coco-nut cultivation in the Melindi district, large as it 
 is, could be greatly extended, especially in the north towards 
 Mombrui and Gongoni, and the increased demand for its 
 various b)-e-products will doubtlessly bring this about. 
 
 The soil, climate, and everything is in its favour, and the 
 tree could be grown by hundreds of thousands along the 
 fertile lands, back-waters, and mangrove swamps of the coast. 
 I am all the more interested in the extension of its cultivation, 
 as I am able to testify from my own experience to what has 
 been accomplished in Southern India in late }-ears, where 
 private enterprise has realized large profits from the various 
 bye-products of this tree. I give some particulars in Appendix 
 B. There is no reason why East Africa should not in the 
 near future be a large exporter of all the b)e-products of this 
 useful and profitable palm. 
 
 Coir. — The manufacture of coir is so eas)' that if a demand 
 was once created, supplies of it would soon be forthcoming. 
 All that is necessary is to soak the husks in water until 
 sufficiently rotted, when they are taken out and beaten with 
 clubs. This separates the fibre, which is then well cleaned, 
 washed, and dried, and this completes the process. (See 
 Appendix B.) 
 
 Before dismissing the question of coco-nut cultivation, 
 there is an important point bearing upon it to which I would
 
 
 BREAKING COCO-NUTS FOR COPRA — MAGARINI PLANTATIONS.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AERICA 
 
 219 
 
 specially call attention. Therefore I quote the following 
 extract from Messrs. A. M. and J. Ferguson's valuable work 
 on Coco-nut Cultivation concerning the growing of coco-nut 
 trees in brackish mangrove soil — 
 
 "The Penang Gazette observes — 'Coco-nuts growing in 
 mangrove soil on the side of creeks, more or less saturated 
 with salt, have their milk brackish, and the sap from which it 
 is secreted must be saline also. These trees do not suffer 
 
 _cu-;nUT5 i-L'K 
 
 from the attacks of the rhinoceros beetle. Trees planted in 
 such a situation are found to bear much sooner than those 
 planted on a sandy soil.' As an illustration of this, the 
 Pena?ig Gazette states that ' while trees planted as far back as 
 thirt}' years ago in sandy soil have not }"et borne fruit, 
 although the}- are fine-looking trees, other trees in the same 
 plantation, onh- ten }-ears old, but planted on low ground, 
 where the sea-tide comes up dail\', washes the roots and runs
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 off again, arc in full bearing, giving from fifty to one hundred 
 nuts yearly. It is true that the milk of the nuts produced by 
 such trees is slightly brackish, but the kernel is as thick as 
 that of coco-nuts grown on sandy soil, and produces as much 
 oil. The chief requisite with regard to a plantation in such a 
 situation is attention to the drainage. Drains should be cut 
 longitudinall}^ between each row of trees, and cross ones at 
 greater intervals. These drains must be left clear, so as to 
 allow the salt water to flow in and out freely. The tide is 
 found to deposit among the trees a very fertilizing matter. If 
 the drains are not attended to and the water stagnates, the 
 trees get dwarfed and become thin towards the top, thereb)' 
 preventing them from having a large crown.' " 
 
 With the large extent of mangrove swamps extending 
 along the British East African sea-board, the importance of 
 the foregoing remarks cannot be emphasized too much. The 
 cultivation of coco-nuts in mangrove swamps would also 
 tend to render the coast-lands more salubrious. 
 
 Now that the Banana fibre and dried meal are becoming of 
 importance, it would be well worth while, in a country where 
 this plant grows so plentifully, to pay some attention to 
 its systematic cultivation. The most valuable variety is the 
 Mtisa textilis, yielding the Manilla hemp ; and judging from 
 its requirements, I am inclined to think Uganda would be the 
 more suitable country for it, for the uncertain rain-fall along the 
 coast is a drawback to its successful cultivation there. The 
 fibres of other varieties of plantains and bananas, though not 
 so valuable as those of the Textilis, are of commercial import- 
 ance, though I am not aware that any valuations have been 
 made upon East African samples. 
 
 The Silk-Cotton Tree appears well adapted to the country, 
 and grows so rapidly that it would also be well worth while 
 to pay more attention to its cultivation. The cotton sells 
 locally at two dollars a frasila, or about twopence a pound 
 weight ! 
 
 Sugar-cane is cultivated to such a trifling extent that it is 
 unnecessary to make more than a passing reference. 
 
 A .source of wealth exists too in the useful and valuable 
 mangrove timber, which is much \alued for building purposes,
 
 TRA\ELS IX EAST AFRICA 221 
 
 being proof against the attacks of the destructive white ants. 
 Its bark Hkewise contains a large proportion of tannin, besides 
 yielding an excellent brown dye. 
 
 Speaking of timber-trees leads me to refer again briefly to 
 the Casnariiia tree — the Australian " she-oak " — which grows 
 plentifull}- around Marereni. This is not only a valuable fuel 
 tree, but is noted for its wind-resisting qualities, and though 
 preferring sandy soil, will grow anywhere at almost an)' 
 elevation. 
 
 Before entering upon the subject of cultivation in the 
 interior, perhaps it will be of more interest to deal first with 
 that great geographical feature of the country — the Sabaki 
 river — its capabilities for navigation, and the nature and com- 
 mercial value of the forest along its banks. It is obvious, 
 that both in relation to the utilization of the timber and to the 
 absence of roads, the capabilities of such a water-way are of 
 very great importance. 
 
 The following barometric determinations made by Mr. 
 Weaver furnish an idea of the gradual and steady rise of the 
 ground from the sea up to No. 2 Stockade — 
 
 Mere Shamba ... 
 
 200 feet abo\-e sea 
 
 Lake Baratarue 
 
 90 „ 
 
 Sekoki Hill (highest point) 
 
 310 „ 
 
 Lake Jelori (crossing at neck) 
 
 90 „ 
 
 „ (C. M.S. Station) 
 
 200 „ 
 
 Makongeni 
 
 400 „ „ „ 
 
 No. 2 Stockade 
 
 600 „ 
 
 Following the winding course of the river, the stockade was 
 from 100 to no miles from the sea. 
 
 The river itself may be described as flowing through flat 
 countr}', here and there interspersed with low hills, and having 
 occasional high banks. The banks of the river are, with few 
 exceptions, low and flat, the bed generally of a very sandy 
 nature until about a mile or so above the mouth, when oozy 
 mud and mangrove swamps are its characteristics. About 
 25 miles above Makongeni this appearance changes, the sandy 
 bed giving place to a rocky granite bottom, and the current 
 becoming much stronger and swifter.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The average width, at and below Makongeni, is about 60 
 yards ; narrowing down, however, at one place below Sekoki 
 Hill, beyond which the river opens out again. At its junction 
 with the sea the Sabaki is about 100 yards wide, with a depth 
 of 6 feet, but its course is obstructed by sand-banks. The depth 
 of the river at the Mombrui ferry at low water does not exceed 
 4 feet 4 inches. 
 
 The Sabaki is subject to heavy floods during the S.W. and 
 \.E. rains, some of which are very sudden in their rise ; and at 
 the stockade in December and January (when I was there) 
 the river was invariably high, and I have noticed the sudden 
 rise of 5 feet in two hours, the water rushing along like a 
 torrent, and the force of the current being so great as to form 
 regular high waves, carrying fragments of trees, branches, etc. 
 along on their surface. My estimate of a rise of from 8 to 10 
 feet is most certainly correct, as evidenced by the marks left 
 by former floods. 
 
 Below Makongeni the river when in flood overflows its low 
 banks, and spreads over the flat country for some distance on 
 each side, and to this cause is chiefly due the series of lakes 
 already noticed, Lake Jelori itself, as I have shown, being 
 connected with the river. During the rains the river may 
 probably have an average depth of from 4^- to 5 feet, but the 
 heavy current, and above all the innumerable shallows formed 
 by the sand-banks found everywhere along the river-bed, form 
 an insurmountable obstacle to navigation. 
 
 In the intervals between the monsoons the river falls 
 rapidly, and all the sand-banks are left exposed, the water 
 falling to a depth of 18 inches, and in very dry seasons to 
 I foot. I never heard of the river being quite dry ; and this 
 e.Ktreme shallowness occurs only during the driest and hottest 
 time of the year, viz. February and March, and never lasts 
 more, on an average, than a month and a half. 
 
 The tide is felt probably for five or six miles up the river, 
 and it is within this space that the different ferries are found. 
 They are worked merely by small canoes, crossing being a 
 matter of much time and trouble when many people and 
 goods have to be taken over. A better mode of ferrying, and 
 one that might be established at very little cost, would be b}'
 
 XII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 means of a flat-bottomed boat large enough to carry cattle and 
 donkeys, the stretching of a strong wire rope across the river 
 being all that is necessary to render the passage practicable 
 and easy at all times. Such a contrivance would prove of 
 great benefit. 
 
 Timber might certainly be floated down the river during 
 the rains, but rafts would not be advisable; the safest way 
 would be to send down the logs merely axe-dressed, either 
 singly or lashed in pairs, for the risk of stoppage on the way 
 would be too great to warrant the sawing of the timber until 
 it arrived below. 
 
 Although the river is unfortunately not suited to navigation, 
 there are other equally important ways of utilizing it. I refer 
 to irrigation. With the extensive tracts of flat country lying 
 on both sides of the Sabaki river, the possibilities of future 
 development by this means are very great. Channels could 
 be conducted for considerable distances, a work which the 
 steady fall of the land towards the sea would greatly facilitate. 
 The higher the river was tapped, the greater the distance the 
 water could be carried. The returns to be looked for from 
 such a system would of course be considerable, as is the case 
 in India, where, even on the west coast with its abundant 
 rain-fall, irrigation is largely carried on. In Travancore all 
 the important rivers are thus tapped, and the water carried off 
 in channels and distributed over the country for a considerable 
 distance. 
 
 With regard to \\\q forests in the Sabaki valley, my inspec- 
 tion of their capabilities was chiefly from an agricultural point 
 of view, but there is no doubt that their exploitation would be 
 a work of great importance, yielding valuable results. 
 
 At present the local demand for timber is small, and limited 
 to that required for the building of dhows and canoes. With 
 the exception of a few stone houses belonging to wealthy 
 Arabs, Swahilis, and Indian merchants, and the Mohamedan 
 mosques, the towns and villages consist chiefly of wattle-and- 
 daub erections with rough jungle sticks for rafters. A small 
 quantity of timber is exported to Mombasa and Zanzibar, I 
 believe chiefly for building purposes. The development of the 
 coast-lands by European enterprise will naturall)' bring about
 
 226 TR.W'ELS IX EAST AFRICA CHAP 
 
 a greater demand for timber for building purposes and also 
 for exportation, and its increased value will have a beneficial 
 effect in checking the present wasteful destruction of forest 
 trees and bush b}- the natives. 
 
 One profluct takes a prominent place in the development 
 of the coast-lands and interior : I refer to indiarubber, ob- 
 tained from the indiarubber vines or Landolphia, which Sir 
 John Kirk was mainly instrumental in bringing into notice. 
 He also discovered the most valuable variety, the pink rubber 
 of commerce, named after him the LandolpJiia Kirkii. 
 
 The thing that struck me most in m}- travels through the 
 country, was its great adaptability for the cultivation of the 
 most valuable South American species of rubber-producing 
 trees, viz. — 
 
 1. The Para {Hcvca hrasUiensis). 
 
 2. The Central American Rubber Tree {Castilloa elasticd). 
 
 3. The Ceara {Manihot glaaiovii). 
 
 4. The Mangabeira {Hancornia speciosd). 
 
 Indeed so important do I deem the matter, that I have 
 annexed (Appendix D) some notes dealing exhaustively with 
 the climate, temperature, rain-fall, and cultivation suited to 
 these trees, and I feel convinced that, after their perusal and a 
 comparison with the description of the country traversed by 
 me, no doubt will be felt that East Africa is destined to 
 become one of the great rubber-producing countries of the 
 world. In reading the reports of Mr. Cross and other author- 
 ities on the home of these rubber trees, one is particular!}- 
 struck with the extreme similarity of the climate, soil, and 
 temperature of the two countries, and it may be noted as a 
 further coincidence that in point of latitude they exactly 
 compare. 
 
 When, b)' the destructive process emplo)-ed b}- the South 
 American gatherers, fears of a rapidl)' diminishing suppl}' 
 drew attention to the possibilities of acclimatizing rubber 
 trees in other localities, East Africa was still unknown. No 
 other country, however, so exactly compares in ever}- wa}' 
 with the original home of these trees. 
 
 I was more and more struck with the great suitabilit}-, for 
 the culti\ation of the Para varict}-, of the Sabaki river district,
 
 xii TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 227 
 
 with its rich soil, low-lying alluvial lands, and numerous lakes 
 and swamps. For the Castilloa Elastica, the more friable soil 
 of the forests in the Giryama country would be suitable ; and 
 for the Ceara, the comparatively barren country and smaller 
 rain-fall around Mangea Hill ; for the country up the Sabaki, 
 with its sandy gravelly soil and huge granite boulders, exactly 
 corresponds with the description given by Mr. Cross of the 
 Ceara rubber country. Lastly, for the Mangabeira we have 
 the extensive forests along the coast from Takaungu to 
 Aroboko, with their grey sandy soil. 
 
 Should the introduction of these trees prove successful— 
 and I see no practical reason for doubt — it will completely 
 revolutionize the country, and the marshy swamps along the 
 Sabaki will be transformed from hotbeds of malarial fever to 
 sources of public revenue and private profit. The system of 
 cultivation and harvesting required would be admirably suited 
 to the people, whilst the opening and clearing of the planta- 
 tions would prove an important factor in the development of 
 the rich Sabaki region. Without suggesting any great scheme 
 of preliminary plantations, I would call attention to the 
 parallel of the Madras Government Cinchona Plantations, as 
 showing what great advantages and profit may be derived 
 from the introduction of a new product by the governing 
 power of a country; while the following extracts will show 
 that similar experiments carried out on the west coast promise 
 to have highly successful results. 
 
 "Another difficulty arises from the comparatively small 
 rain-fall of this district, whereas only 500 miles to the south- 
 ward there is a rain-fall of sometimes over 200 inches ; in the 
 Gambia it rarely exceeds 50 inches, and there is practically 
 eight months' drought. As may readily be understood, such 
 climatic conditions are very trying to many vegetable products 
 otherwise suited to tropical life. Nevertheless, there are 
 many valuable plants that thrive even under such circum- 
 stances, and the problem is to find and utilize them. I am 
 very sanguine that one of these plants has been found in the 
 Ceara rubber tree {Matii/iot Glaziovii). All the seedlings 
 which I raised have been growing vigorously, and I have 
 carefully collected all the seeds procurable from last year's
 
 228 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 bcarinL,f, and intend to distribute them in favourable localities 
 for planting' during the next rainy season ; as the plants grow 
 equally readily from slips, I shall also raise trees where prac- 
 ticable by these means." ^ 
 
 " It may be very well worth while to try and establish the 
 Ceara rubber {Manihot Glaziovii) in West iVfrica. It has 
 apparently established itself at the Gambia in very poor 
 sandy soil and under very arid conditions. It requires little 
 attention, and yields rubber at an early period. It very much 
 resembles the Cassava plant in habits and requirements, and 
 as the natives already cultivate the latter they would be 
 likely to take very readily to the rubber plant. Seed 
 of the Ceara rubber could be obtained in quantities from 
 Ceylon." - 
 
 Certainly the one drawback to this cultivation is the length 
 of time — probably from four to five years — that must elapse 
 before returns can be expected, and it is this slow return that 
 has principally prevented its initiation by private enterprise. 
 
 I would further suggest that an improved cultivation of the 
 indigenous rubber vines should be carried on. This could be 
 done at a comparatively small cost, for only the underwood in 
 the selected localities need be cleared, and the vines planted 
 at the foot of the original forest trees. Apart from the quicker 
 returns — for I understand these vines may be tapped when 
 three years old — this would be of service as contributing to 
 the systemization of the local rubber industry. I would also 
 draw attention to the much-needed improvement in the process 
 of collecting the rubber milk. There can be no doubt that 
 the present primitive system of collection is the cause of the 
 low prices current. Thin rubber sheets carefully dried sell 
 better than the orange-shaped balls in which the local rubber 
 is exported, for when the balls are cut in two, they often dis- 
 close the presence of foreign substances carelessly or dis- 
 honestly introduced, a fact which much depreciates the value 
 
 * Report of March i, 1889, by Sir G. F. Carter, Administrator, on the 
 A<^ricultiual Industries of the Gambia. — Kciu Bulletin, 1889. 
 
 - Memorandum on the Experimental Cultivation of Economic Plants 
 in West Africa, by Mr. D. Morris, Assistant-Director, Royal Gardens 
 Kew. — AVri' Ihillctiiu 1890.
 
 XII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 !29 
 
 of otherwise good rubber.^ The LandolpJda Kirkii is the 
 most valuable of the indigenous species, and should be the one 
 chosen for cultivation. 
 
 Two other products are likely to do well in the Sabaki 
 district, viz. Nutmegs and Cacao. The only drawback to the 
 first-named is its slow growth: it takes from seven to eight ^ 
 years before any returns can be expected. It is, however, 
 a valuable tree, and, I think, a most suitable one. The 
 late Commander Cameron refers to the large groves of wild 
 nutmeg trees that he saw during his explorations in Central 
 Africa. 
 
 The Cacao tree will grow from the sea-level to an elevation 
 of nearly 2000 feet. It requires the richest forest loam, and 
 it might be grown in conjunction with the Para rubber tree, 
 and also act as a shade to the latter. The cacao is a quick 
 grower and begins to yield in its third year at about the 
 following ratio — 
 
 3rd year ... ... ... ... i cwt. per acre. 
 
 4th „ 3 „ 
 
 5 tn ,, ... ... ..." ... 5 )) )) )) 
 
 The forest land around Sekoki Hill would suit this tree well. 
 
 The Castor-oil plant grows wild over all the country, but 
 its cultivation seems entirely confined to the Wa-Giryama and 
 Wanika, who grow it largely. If a greater demand were 
 created, an increased development of its growth could not 
 be undertaken in better places than in M'Tanganiko and 
 Takaungu ; these being the principal trade outlets of the 
 Giryama country, for the distance thence to Kilifi harbour 
 is but short. 
 
 Tropical Africa is above all rich in fibre-producing plants, 
 notably the Sansevieria yielding the Boivstring hci/ip, which 
 grows in great abundance throughout the country ; and we are 
 here again indebted to the energy and enterprise of Sir John 
 Kirk for bringing their commercial value into public notice. 
 
 ' A local Government Order has been issued within the last few months, 
 to the effect that all rubber balls shall be cut in two before being offered 
 for sale.
 
 230 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The cultivation of Fibres offers such important prospects 
 that I i^ave special attention to the subject, for I consider 
 that there is here also the nucleus of a future industry. 
 
 Xotwithstaiiding the very favourable reports on the few 
 samples that have reached this country, the value of Sau- 
 sevieria fibres still appears to be so little known that a few 
 notes concernin^f them will prove of interest. 
 
 Of the twelve species already identified as growing in East 
 Africa, the most valuable fibre-producers are — 
 
 (i) Sansevieria kmgifiora, Sims. 
 
 (2) „ Kirkii, Baker M.S. 
 
 (3) „ guineetisis, Willd. 
 
 (4) ,, cj'lindrica, Bojer. 
 
 S. longiflora is found throughout Equatorial Africa, extend- 
 ing on the east coast down to the Zambesi, and Sir John 
 Kirk found it growing abundantly between Pangani and 
 Mombasa. It is of a robust habit; its leaves often attain 
 a length of 9 feet ; and a specimen of excellent fibre from 
 one such leaf weighing f oz. can be seen in the Museum at 
 Kew Gardens. 
 
 vS". Kirkii was discovered by Sir John Kirk in 1S81, and 
 introduced by him into all our tropical colonies. It compares 
 most favourably with 5. longiflora, yielding fibre at the rate 
 of 1-69 per cent, by weight of green leaf 
 
 6". guineensis, which Sir John Kirk has identified with the 
 " n'konge," is the species which I found growing so plentifully 
 along the banks of the Sabaki river. Captain Lugard, in 
 The Rise of our East African Empire, speaking of the 
 " n'konge," remarks — 
 
 " It grows in absolutely illimitable quantities over hundreds 
 of square miles, and if found to be of value for export, it 
 could be floated down the waterways of the Sabaki and 
 Tana .... a strong fibre which I have found from practical 
 experience to resist decay from damp." 
 
 S. cylindrica is spread across South Africa from Zanzibar 
 to Angola, and has quite a different appearance from the other 
 species, its leaves — which, when fully developed, are 3 to 4
 
 XII TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 233 
 
 feet in length — being cylindrical in shape, very dark coloured, 
 and of thick texture. 
 
 For further botanical information about these plants I 
 would refer the reader to Appendices B and E. 
 
 That I am not alone in predicting a future for the com- 
 mercial development of these fibres, I quote extracts from 
 a letter to me from Mr. Joseph Foulkis, a gentleman who 
 has large practical experience of the subject. 
 
 Notes on Bowstring Hemp. — " In the early part of 
 last year, I went out to British Central Africa, with the 
 object of seeing the different fibres in their native state, and 
 treating them on the spot with a machine of my own 
 invention. I made Blantyre my head-quarters, marching 
 thence several hundreds of miles, and found them growing 
 in great abundance over a very large area. I observed five 
 varieties out of the ten or twelve known species of Sansevieria. 
 The Sansevieria longijiora grows to a height of 12 to 13 feet, 
 and the Sansevieria cylindrica to 9 feet, and 4 inches in 
 diameter at base. I found that the natives were using 
 a fibre which they called 'Boase.' It is a remarkable fibre, 
 exceedingly fine and strong, something similar to the 
 Ranice. 
 
 " From British Central Africa I went to British East Africa 
 with the same purpose of investigating its fibres. Here there 
 is a much larger scope for the industry, for, as you are well 
 aware, the country is literally overrun with them. I found 
 B. E. A. on the whole exceedingly healthy in comparison with 
 B. C. A., where I had contracted fever from which I recovered 
 in B. E. A. 
 
 " The specimens I brought home of the Sansevieria cylindrica 
 were really very fine. I saw them growing there to the height 
 of 9 feet. 
 
 " British East Africa has many more commercial advantages 
 than British Central Africa, on account of its rivers, and being 
 on the coast. I noticed that all species of Sansevieria pre- 
 ferred a rich, moist soil, and a comparatively humid climate 
 with shade. They are essentially tropical plants, and do not 
 thrive in a temperature less than 60 Fahr. Under such 
 conditions they grow rapidly, and establish themselves
 
 &34 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA cHAP. 
 
 permanently by means of large spreading fleshy rhizomes, 
 or underground roots. 
 
 " I transplanted some at Mlanji, and in three months they 
 had grown to a height of 15 inches. Two crops a year can 
 be had, provided the roots are placed in a suitable soil ; by 
 having two crops you obtain a very fine fibre, but if left to 
 grow to the end of the season, it is much coarser, and there- 
 fore stronger, and about the same in colour. 
 
 " Hitherto there has been some difficulty in treating the 
 leaves of these plants, which I have been able to surmount. 
 My main object was to invent a machine of strong and simple 
 construction, that the natives could work, and turn out the 
 fibre instantaneously in one operation. I set mine up at 
 Chiromo, and treated the plants with marked success. The 
 boys lay twelve to eighteen green leaves in each gripper at 
 the time, place them on a travelling table, which passes 
 through the machine, and in a few seconds the fibre appears 
 beautifully clean, white, and silky. By my process I am also 
 able to obtain from these plants a valuable pulp for making 
 high-class paper. 
 
 " As to the quality of the fibre, the Belfast Rope Company 
 write me they much prefer it to either the Sisal or the 
 Mauritius Hemp for their purpose. 
 
 " Messrs. Ide and Christie value it at i^20 per ton. 
 
 " C. E. Collyer, Esq., Expert Referee for Fibres, etc., for 
 the Imperial Institute, values it at £2\ to £22 per ton, it 
 being, in his opinion, superior to the fine Fourcroya ; you 
 will therefore see that it commands a better price than 
 Manilla. 
 
 "The advantages to be obtained from developing the fibre 
 plant known as Boiustring Hemp are — 
 
 " I. From the Sansevieria 3 per cent, of clean fibre is 
 obtained, as against only ij per cent, produced from the 
 Sisal, Agave, and Fourcroya. 
 
 " 2. The cost of preparation is small, through the simplicity 
 and efficiency of the machine, and the abundance of cheap 
 labour. By other systems the cost of [production is half the 
 value of the fibre. 
 
 "3. The plants are easily propagated, all that is required
 
 xri 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 being the gathering of the leaves and roots, treating the 
 former, and replanting the latter. 
 
 "4. The superiority of the fibre for its strength and dura- 
 bility, as proved by several experts, especially Sir William 
 Hooker, who says in the Botanical Magazine that experiments 
 recently made with the cordage have shown it to be the 
 strongest and best for deep-sea soundings of any known 
 fibre." 
 
 As to the Sansevieria, it is not a case of fostering a new 
 industry, but of developing what is already there, and of 
 making known and bringing home to the commercial world 
 their value. 
 
 In an interview with Mr. Christie, of Messrs. Ide and 
 Christie, on this subject, that gentleman remarked that in 
 these Sansevierias, particularly the S. longijiora, the Pro- 
 tectorate undoubtedly possessed a valuable commercial pro- 
 duct, and that, in his opinion, the best way of bringing it into 
 public notice was to make a trial shipment of not less than five 
 tons — the fibre to be as long as possible ; and the report made 
 upon this would go a long way towards establishing and 
 advertising its value. Expensive machinery is not required, 
 only a careful supervision of the native methods of prepara- 
 tion. The plants are there, and native labour is abundant ; 
 all that is wanted is English enterprise and capital. 
 
 I am well aware that of late years the value of commercial 
 fibres has considerably decreased, as indeed is evident from 
 the following figures which I take in part from the Kezv 
 Bulletin of May 1887, quoting the prices given for Sisal Hemp 
 since 1879. 
 
 1879 
 1880 
 1881 
 1882 
 1883 
 1884 
 1885 
 1886 
 
 £ 
 
 24 per ton 
 
 27 » 
 
 28 „ 
 
 28 „ 
 
 27 „ 
 
 21 „ 
 
 19 ,. 
 
 21 „
 
 236 TRAVJ 
 
 l:ls in eas'i 
 
 ' AFRICA 
 
 CH. XII 
 
 Manila Hoiip 
 Sisal Hemp . . .. 
 
 May 1887. 
 Per ton. 
 
 £ •»•• 
 
 ... 31 10 
 ... 32 
 
 May 1892. 
 Per ton. 
 
 £ s. 
 28 
 23 
 
 May 1897. 
 Per ton. 
 
 £ s. 
 15 IS 
 15 
 
 Mauritius Hemp ... 29 o 21 o 21 o 
 Neiv Zealand Hemp 29 o 19 o 14 O 
 
 For the prices in the foregoing table during the last ten 
 years (May 1887 to May 1897), I am indebted to the courtesy 
 of Mr. Christie, to whose interesting letter in Appendix B, I 
 would refer all those more particularly interested in this 
 matter. 
 
 Jute cultivation was another industry to which I gave 
 attention in connection with the Sabaki district. I see no 
 reason why this cultivation cannot also be successfully intro- 
 duced. Being identical with the cotton plant in its require- 
 ments, there are many suitable areas available ; for instance 
 the Tana river district ; the only question being whether the 
 permanent discolouration of the Sabaki river would have 
 an injurious effect upon the colour of the fibre. 
 
 I come next to the Ramie or RJicea, a variety of China 
 grass belonging to the nettle family. It can be so easily 
 cultivated, the plants being perennial and yielding a fibre of 
 excellent strength and fineness, that it at once suggests itself 
 as a good product. It requires a moist and stimulating 
 climate, and though growing well in all soils, a light loam 
 appears the best suited to its requirements. The great 
 drawback, however, is that as yet no perfect machine exists 
 for decorticating its fibre. 
 
 Pineapples too could be more extensively grown, if the 
 extraction of the fibre from the leaves could be made 
 remunerative. I found them growing in the Giryama 
 country as well as on the coast-lands. 
 
 ■ Apart from the foregoing, there are already many products 
 now cultivated for which the country is eminently adapted, 
 and which are capable of very considerable extension, but 
 to accomplish this, special care and encouragement are 
 needed.
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 MAGARIXI — JOURNEY TO MOMBASA, via ROKA AND 
 KONJORA 
 
 Cotton — Acting as Arbiter — The Watoro Register — Start for Mombasa— 
 The Hot Season — Roka — Brackish Soils— Konjora and its Creeks — 
 M'Tanganiko — Kilifi Creek — Experiences on Board a Dhow — Visits 
 to Zanzibar and Pemba. 
 
 From the end of January to February 24 I was kept busily 
 occupied at the shambas, where I now had, as the reader 
 may remember, a new overseer — Mohamed bin Hussein. 
 
 On my return I was naturally much interested in the result 
 of my experiment in cotton cultivation, and was glad to find 
 the plants had come on remarkably well, being from i^ to 3 
 feet high, very regular, and many of them covered with ripe 
 pods. 
 
 I put on a few women and girls to gather the pods, and 
 was much pleased with the appearance of the cleaned cotton, 
 the staple being of fair length and very white. I now made 
 arrangements for the systematic carr}-ing on of the work. 
 Two nakoas, selected from the best of the Wanika, were 
 told off to superintend the picking and cleaning, for until 
 the arrival of a ginning machine, the cotton would have to 
 be cleaned by hand. The plan I followed was to have the 
 cotton that was j^icked each day thoroughly dried, and then 
 carefully gone over by some of the most intelligent Wanika 
 girls, who were kept permanently at this work. I soon had a 
 considerable quantit}' of cleaned cotton, and felt quite proud 
 of its appearance. Of course I had my usual peck of troubles 
 with the people, generally arising out of trifling, but to them 
 
 237
 
 238 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 important, matters, such as quarrels, wife-beating, thefts, etc., 
 and it was amusing to notice how they still adhered to many 
 of their old customs. Thus my formal consent to a marriage 
 was always asked for by the contracting parties. There was 
 a good deal of sickness at times amongst them ; they appeared 
 particularly liable to chest and lung complaints, which often 
 proved fatal. 
 
 The new overseer was a zealous and hard-working man, 
 and the various shambas soon presented a very different 
 appearance from what they did when I first saw them. The 
 metamah and oil-grain harvests had been good, so what 
 with the sale of these grains and considerable estate produce, 
 prospects appeared flourishing, for we had also collected the 
 considerable number of 18,600 coco-nuts from the estate 
 trees. 
 
 In my daily walks to and fro I had often remarked in the 
 neighbourhood of M'Pandiani shamba a very well-kept-up 
 banana plantation, belonging, I was told, to an Arab who 
 did not grow any other produce. He kept his slaves con- 
 stantly cleaning and weeding the plants, which certainly 
 looked remarkably well. The fruit he exported to Lamu. 
 
 Immediately after my return, M'Doro, the Wanika head-man, 
 accompanied by a large number of his people, came to see 
 me, and brought me fowls and a quantity of eggs. They had 
 only heard of my return the night before, and came to see me 
 at once. They now fully realized the advantages of paid 
 labour, and made most anxious inquiries as to when I should 
 want Wanika again, declaring that the whole of their village 
 was ready to come when required, and finally made a request 
 which gave me much pleasure. They asked my permission 
 to open up new land for cultivation close to Magarini Hill. 
 I told them that I was delighted to grant their request, and 
 informed them that it was the Company's intention to experi- 
 ment with various products, such as cotton and tobacco, the 
 seeds of which I would supply to them, so there would be 
 work available for all, men, women, and children. The Wanika 
 seemed thoroughly pleased, and frequently gave expression 
 to their satisfaction during my short address. I then went off 
 \\ith them to look at the land they wanted. It was situated
 
 XIII 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 241 
 
 about two miles away in a low valley, and to get to it we 
 had to cross a deep hollow spanned by a temporary bridge, 
 the country around being thick bush \\ith a rich black loamy 
 soil. 
 
 Henceforth I had no trouble with the Wanika ; the numbers 
 which now came daily averaged between forty and eighty, 
 and I had every reason to be pleased with the results of my 
 endeavours in this direction. 
 
 The following day a M'Toro from Makongeni informed me 
 that all the people had gone down to Jelori to have their names 
 registered as free men, as I had advised them to do. But on 
 
 WANIKA VILLAGE NEAR MAGARINI. 
 
 my sending a messenger to IVIr. Hooper to inquire about it, he 
 wrote that not a single M'Toro had yet arrived although the 
 river had been fordable for days. 
 
 I accordingly sent a message to ^^lakongeni to be delivered 
 to M'Soma in these terms — 
 
 " I have received to-day a letter from Mr. Hooper telling 
 me that no Watoro have yet come to Jelori, although I under- 
 stand the river has been fordable for the last week. My 
 messenger has orders to tell you that you will be allowed 
 seven daj's to go to Jelori to have your names written down. 
 After that time I shall send to Jelori to ask Mr. Hooper for
 
 242 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the list, and if no one has come down I shall write to Mombasa 
 to say the negotiations have fallen through. I have been 
 good to your people, now let me know what you intend 
 to do." 
 
 My messenger came back after six days accompanied by 
 eight VVatoro, who brought me a reply from M'Soma to the 
 effect that there had been a great deal of small-pox on their 
 side of the Sabaki, and that this alone was the cause of the 
 delay. I took down the names of the eight men who had 
 come with my messenger to be registered, and nine days later 
 fifteen more arrived, this time from the north side of the river. 
 They explained that they had not gone to Jelori as they had 
 heard that Mr. Hooper had left for Mombasa, and that it was 
 quite true that they had much sickness amongst them ; that 
 M'Soma himself was very ill and had sent them down to ask 
 what they should do. I took the names of these men also, 
 making one hundred and fifty-nine in all, and told them to 
 tell M'Soma that if Mr. Hooper was absent Mr. Burt was there, 
 and they could go to him, and I should hope to hear soon 
 that they had all done so. Notwithstanding the bad name 
 they bore on the coast, I took a liking to these modern 
 Ishmaelites, my experience of them being that they appreciate 
 and respond readily to just treatment. Only your yea must 
 be yea and your nay, nay — once having said a thing you 
 must abide by it. They look up to and trust Europeans, and 
 it is greatly to their credit, I think, to be able to say that of 
 all the Watoro I employed at the stockade, I had not to 
 punish a man once. It is not to be expected that after their 
 wild life in the bush they would settle down at once to regular 
 and steady work, or that they should desire to break up their 
 settlements formed for mutual protection, until they are well 
 assured that they will not regret it. 
 
 One morning a Swahili woman came to see me. She 
 wanted me to give her medicine, as she thought her face was 
 too black ! I gave her three packets of Epsom salts, one to 
 be taken every three days, and hoped it would have the 
 desired effect of improving her complexion and satisfying her 
 vanity ! 
 
 One of my watchmen, named Mabruke, came to me one
 
 XIII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 243 
 
 morning and said that his wife, Hawazaow, was dead. Only 
 the day before he had come to me for medicine for her, and 
 in the course of the day I learnt some strange facts regarding 
 their beliefs in witchcraft. 
 
 Mabruke believed his wife had been bewitched by a 
 " machowi " or wizard. The Swahili people firmly believe in 
 these practices. The wizard, I was told, buries some medicine 
 at the entrance of the hut, and the doomed individual passing 
 over it dies shortly afterwards. I asked, " What does he do it 
 for ? " and the reply was, " To eat the dead body ! " It appears 
 that after the body is buried the wizard throws some sticks 
 at the grave, calling on the body to arise, which it does, 
 though no outward signs show that the ground has been 
 disturbed. Mabruke it seems had consulted a Swahili doctor, 
 who told him his wife was bewitched ; and it was said Mabruke 
 knew the culprit, and was going to watch the grave that night 
 on purpose to catch him when he came to eat the body. All 
 the shamba people attended the funeral, which took place 
 the same evening ; the body was simply wrapped in a winding- 
 sheet, and, water having been poured over it, it was put into 
 the ground close to the husband's house. Mabruke seemed 
 very grieved, and said they had been betrothed when quite 
 little children. The women all sat in the verandah, singing 
 death songs, and when the body was brought out the}' uttered 
 a melancholy wail. Poor people — I was getting to know 
 them and their ways better, and could not help liking their 
 simple natures. 
 
 I sent for Mabruke next morning, and in the meanwhile I 
 asked Mohamed, the overseer, what he thought of this 
 wizard and vampire business. He evidently believed in it 
 too — the superstition appeared to be very general. The 
 " machowi " in question was supposed to be one of the 
 shamba people. Mabruke declared that he had no doubt 
 it was a "machowi" who had killed his wife ; he believed the 
 individual to be one of his fellow-labourers, and asked me to 
 summon all the nakoas before me, and threaten punishment 
 if the wizard or " machowi " did any more sorcery. He told 
 me he had sat up all night by the grave, and in the course of 
 the afternoon I noticed that he had placed some heavy sticks
 
 244 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ciiAP. 
 
 and stones over it. Ramazan and Mohamcd both assured 
 me that if a man wished to get rid of any woman's husband, 
 witchcraft (poisoning ?) was often resorted to. I asked 
 Mohanied what he thought of Mabruke's request, and he 
 said that it ought to be complied with, for SuHman's people 
 were bad. So, in the hope that it might have a good effect, I 
 decided to speak to all the nakoas next day. When they 
 were assembled, a good many of the others being also present, 
 I told them why I had called them before me, and asked 
 Mabruke to mention whom he accused. At first he refused, 
 but after a while he named two nakoas, but could bring no 
 proof against them. I then spoke to the people, telling them 
 that witchcraft was all nonsense, and said that if any man 
 should be found dealing in the black art he should be severely 
 punished. The overseer addressed them to the same effect, 
 and they were then dismissed. This no doubt warded off 
 some deaths while I was there ! 
 
 The average shade temperature during January and Febru- 
 ary was as follows — 6 a.m., from 69° to 74'; 2 p.m., from 84" 
 (one day as low as 80"^) to 95'; 6 p.m., from 78^ to 82°. 
 
 I had now, after a month at the shambas, to start for 
 Mombasa for the purpose of proceeding to Zanzibar and 
 Pemba, the object of my visit to these islands being to 
 investigate their agricultural capabilities. 
 
 Before leaving the mainland, however, I had to visit a 
 property near M'Tanganiko, which the Company had purchased 
 from some Germans, and my journey from Melindi to that 
 place by way of M'Shaka, Roka, and M'Tondoa, led me through 
 a portion of the country which I had not seen before. 
 
 Leaving Melindi, I followed the telegraph-line over a gently 
 undulating country, through the now familiar landscape of 
 open country and scattered baobab trees. These trees were 
 now without a leaf, for it was the hottest time of the year, and 
 the whole country was parched and dried up. The cultivated 
 area around Melindi extends on this side for about six miles, 
 the furthest shamba being called Matagi. Here I passed 
 through a thick grove of Hypha^ne palms. 
 
 Beyond Matagi I entered forest, and the country beyond up 
 to M'Shaka alternated between forest and bush, and dry.
 
 xiri TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 247 
 
 # 
 
 shallow, flat, sandy back-waters. The path, as is usually the 
 case, keeps, where possible, close aloiii^ the sea-shore. By the 
 back-waters the heat was terrible, 120 to 125 . There was 
 neither shade nor breeze, and the blinding glare from the 
 white sand made it worse. Very little water was to be got 
 on the way at this time of the year, and my porters, poor 
 fellows, felt the want of it very badly. We reached M'Shaka 
 (seventeen miles from Mclindi) at 2 p.m. I halted awhile 
 under a shed, where a large dhow was being built, to allow 
 the straggling porters to come up, and then moved on to the 
 nearest water-hole. Here I enjoyed my crowning experience 
 of African travel. The water in this hole was simply liquid 
 mud, and to drink it you had to cover the cup with your 
 handkerchief to keep the mud out of your mouth, sucking the 
 liquid in through the cloth ! 
 
 I made some tea, which, even with the liberal addition of 
 tinned milk, resembled a black draught more than anything 
 else. This with some egg curry and bread and jam, served at 
 3.30 p.m., constituted my breakfast. 
 
 I left for Roka at 4.30 p.m., and noticed that the low-lying 
 land or valleys were covered in places with bare patches of 
 white glistening salt incrustations, but otherwise the growth 
 of the grass did not seem affected in any way. There was, 
 however, no other vegetation. We reached Roka at sunset, 
 and as the well in the town was dried up, the people were 
 getting their water from another well, in the low valley outside 
 the town. The water from this, though drinkable, had a 
 decidedly brackish taste. Apparently all this low-lying land 
 was impregnated with salt. It is a matter for regret that 
 coco-nuts could not be cultivated in these low valleys, but 
 unfortunately the coco-nut palm, though thriving in almost 
 any soil except stony ground — even in marshy land exposed 
 to the action of sea-water — will not grow where the salt is 
 formed in crystals by evaporation.^ 
 
 1 With reference to these brackish soils the following information may 
 be of interest — 
 
 " It has been found by experience in India that the planting of the rain 
 tree {Pithccolohitiin saiiiaii) is a most effectual means of impro\ing the 
 character of land rendered sterile owing to saline efflorescences. Salt
 
 248 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 Leuvinti Roka on the morning of February 28, a tramp of 
 ten miles thrcnigh forest and bush brought us to M'Tondoa, 
 from which we started the same afternoon for Konjora. 
 M'Tondoa, with its straggh'ng houses, surrounding cultivation, 
 and grey to black loamy soil, I have already described. Lions 
 and buffaloes were said to be numerous in the surrounding 
 forest, and I noticed several of their tracks outside the town. 
 The path led through thick bush, low scrub and grass, with 
 occasional large trees, the soil being a grey sandy loam. The 
 country was burnt and dried up, but where burnt the grass 
 was shooting up again. 
 
 About half-an-hour from M'Tondoa the bush gave place to 
 open grass lands, with scattered clumps of trees and some 
 wild sago palms. After crossing an open stretch of country 
 and a low flat valley with high grass (probably under water in 
 wet weather), I came upon a small shamba containing castor- 
 oil, bananas, and pineapples, with some fine cashew-nut trees. 
 There were some very good patches of sweet cassava round 
 some houses. Continuing through open grass country, inter- 
 spersed with coco-nut and mango trees, I approached some 
 low hills to the west (the direction I was now travelling), and 
 here the country became a succession of ridges and valleys, 
 the bush growing thicker, until I entered a forest district with 
 large open glades and scattered bush, the soil alternately red 
 to black loam, red predominating. 
 
 Bush. — A parcel of seed has reached us from Brisbane, having been sent 
 for experimental cultivation. The seeds, which are those of a salt bush 
 (most likely Atriplex spo/tiflosa), are as small as mustard-seed, but 
 flattish, and are contained in a spongy cover. The salt bushes are used 
 as fodder, and are especially suited to dry saline soils, the only specimens 
 indigenous to Ceylon being Atriplex repens, mentioned by Thwaites as 
 occurring in the north of the island. Atriplex spongiosa is described 
 as being particularly good for sheep pasture. Atriplex niniimularia is 
 one of the tallest, most fattening, and wholesome of the salt bushes for 
 sheep and cattle. Sheep feeding upon it are said never to be affected by 
 liver fluke, and to get cured if suffering from the distomum worm and 
 other allied parasites. Atriplex haliuioides, :i common dwarf shrub, is 
 also a good forage plant, whilst Atriplex vesiearia is described as the 
 most fattening and most relished of all these salt bushes, holding out in the 
 greatest extremes o{ (Xxox.v^hx.'"— Tropical Agriculturist, November 1892,
 
 XIII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 249 
 
 The high ground hereabouts commanded an extensive view 
 of the valley I had been traversing and of the sea beyond it, 
 about five miles off, m)' route having hitherto been 
 parallel to the coast. Judging from the nature of the soil, and 
 the appearance of the occasional coco-nut trees growing, I 
 considered that the whole of the flat country I had first 
 crossed was eminently adapted for coco-nut cultivation. 
 
 Proceeding westward across the hills, the ascents of which 
 were fairly steep, and covered with thick forest of very fine 
 trees with dense undergrowth, the soil became more chocolate 
 in colour and very friable. When I reached the highest point 
 of this ascent, I judged (not having an aneroid with me) that 
 the elevation above sea-level was 450 to 500 feet. The summit 
 was flat with several abandoned clearings upon it, and numer- 
 ous dead forest trees killed in the usual way by fire ; the soil 
 a rich chocolate. Descending the hill, the forest gave place to 
 large open clearings, and from this point there was an exten- 
 sive view over the low-l}'ing lands on the other side — the 
 country presenting the appearance of a series of low ridges 
 and valleys, covered with grass and bush, but evidently at one 
 time under culti\"ation. The direction of the path presently 
 changed from west to south-west, and the soil half-way down 
 became a stiff" black loam with a good deal of sandstone in it. 
 The ridges were abrupt and the descents steep. From about 
 here I got a good view of Konjora, situated on the edge of 
 a low valley at the mouth of a back-water running up from 
 the sea. 
 
 Konjora consists of two slave villages surrounded by coco- 
 nut trees — health}', vigorous, and in good condition. The 
 whole country round here belongs to Salim bin Hamisi, the 
 Liwali of Takaungu, who is all-powerful. I camped in the 
 valley below one of the villages, and although Salim bin 
 Hamisi was living here at the time, he never came near me. 
 Being very tired I did not regret it. He sent me his greetings, 
 together with some very acceptable young coco-nuts, and 
 supplied me with a guide. I started for M'Tanganiko at day- 
 light next morning. 
 
 The Konjora creek is an arm or branch of Kilifi Ba}-, which 
 winds inland right up to M'Tanganiko. A dhow can go up
 
 'SO TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 with the tide, the first part by sailing and the latter by punt- 
 ing with poles, taking three hours to reach M'Tanganiko. 
 
 Konjora is also accessible to dhows, and at full tide the 
 creek is quite impassable except by boat. I crossed in a 
 canoe, and after a stiff climb up the high ridge which divides 
 it from the larger Kilifi back-water, I descended into a long, 
 deep, narrow bay, skirting the back-water, where it is thickly 
 edged with mangrove swamps. I noticed a few cultivated 
 patches here and there, with some papaw trees and castor-oil 
 ])lants, the soil varying from a stiff black near the sea to 
 a more friable loam inland, with occasional outcrops of 
 sandstone. 
 
 Leaving the valley, the path led to another steep ridge 
 with a good many fan palms, the top being level, and present- 
 ing the same appearance as the other, viz. thick bush with 
 a stiff brown soil. After crossing another valley, also with a 
 very steep and abrupt descent, I finally arrived at M'Tanganiko. 
 
 I need not trouble the reader with a detailed description of 
 the property I had come to inspect. Suffice it to say, that 
 its site had not been well chosen, for it lay in a low valley 
 periodically flooded in the wet season by the N'Zovoni river. 
 
 I had intended to travel overland the whole way to 
 Mombasa, but the heat was too great, and I thought it would 
 be too hard on my porters to attempt it, so I decided to post- 
 pone my visit to the remaining part of the coast till a more 
 favourable season. 
 
 A large dhow being about ready to sail to Mombasa, I 
 decided to go down in her with my porters, etc., but as she 
 did not sail until the afternoon I took the opportunity to have 
 another look round the town, the houses of which are plastered 
 with red clay, apparently the characteristic of the ridge on 
 which it is built. 
 
 This ridge overlooks the N'Zovoni river where it flows into 
 the Kilifi creek. Many of the houses are situated close to the 
 water's edge, all loads of grain and produce being carried 
 on board the various dhows through the mud and shallow 
 water. 
 
 It took me and m>' porters a good hour to float the dhow, 
 which was stuck hard and fast in the mud, but we finally got
 
 XIII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 251 
 
 off at 4 p.m. The creek, which is bordered on both sides by a 
 thick fringe of mangroves, some of them very large trees, is at 
 first narrow anci very shallow, but it gradually deepens and 
 widens out as one proceeds. After an hour's punting through 
 the winding channel, our progress constantly checked by the 
 mast catching in the overhanging branches of the mangrove 
 trees, we passed the Konjora inlet. 
 
 The south side of the creek appeared all forest and bush, 
 fringed with dense mangrove growth. The north side was 
 cultivated, and very noticeable from the red nature of its soil. 
 After passing Konjora creek, the back-water gradually widens 
 out into a fine open waterway, low hills covered with forest 
 and bush sloping down steeply to the water's edge on both 
 sides, with a fringe of mangroves and black oozy mud. We 
 reached the Company's Custom House at M'Narani at 7 p.m., 
 and anchored for the night in Kilifi Bay to await the turn of 
 the tide at daylight next morning. I had dinner on board, 
 and passed the night in my chair. Sleep was impossible, 
 owing to the awful smells from the mud swamps and the bilge 
 water and shark's flesh on board the dhow, so I smoked most of 
 the night, and was heartily glad when we weighed anchor at 
 grey dawn next morning. 
 
 We had a smooth passage and a favourable wind, and run- 
 ning along close inshore the whole way, we reached Mombasa 
 at two o'clock the same afternoon. It was great pleasure to 
 reach civilization once more and to meet Europeans again. I 
 remained in Mombasa till March 15, when I sailed for 
 Zanzibar and Pemba in the mail steamer Ethiopia. A 
 detailed account of these visits will be found in another portion 
 of this volume.
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 SHAMBA LIFE — JOURNEY TO MOMBASA AND BACK 
 
 An Unpleasant \'oyage — Mr. Weaver becomes my Assistant — The Wet 
 Season— Rain-gauge— Shipment of Copra— Transport Questions — 
 Rats and Snakes —Revisit Jelori — Change in the Attitude of the Watoro 
 — Somah Children — A Hard March — Lions— Watamu— The N'Zovoni 
 River— Meet Bishop Tucker at Frere Town — Mombasa again — Rabai 
 Mission Station— Through the Giryama Country — An Enthusiastic 
 Reception. 
 
 I RETURNED from Pemba Island on Saturday, April 9, 1892, 
 having left Weti at 6 a.m. in the Sultan's steamer Kihva, 
 and arrived at Mombasa at 2 p.m., after a delightful voyage 
 of eight hours. 
 
 I was detained there on various matters till the i 5th, when 
 I left for Melindi, accompanied by Mr. Weaver, who had been 
 appointed my assistant on the Magarini shambas. 
 
 We sailed early in the morning in a very small dhow, a 
 great contrast to the comfortable Kikva, for what with the 
 rough sea, heavy scuds of rain, the smells on board, and sea- 
 sickness, the voyage was a most unpleasant one ! We reached 
 Melindi in the dark after thirteen hours' pitching and tossing, 
 and as a wind got up we were nearly wrecked on the rocks 
 outside. We fired two shots as a signal to Bell-Smith to 
 send a boat for us, and when I landed I was so weak that 
 I could hardly stand. 
 
 Leaving Weaver behind at Melindi to send up the loads, 
 I proceeded next day to the shambas, and after a very 
 fatiguing march, feverish and sea-sick, I reached my old 
 camp-shed at Shamba l^araka at dusk. Here another travel- 
 ling experience awaited mc — I liad no lights, the box of 
 
 2C2 '
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 255 
 
 candles having been left behind, and as the cooking oil was 
 also forgotten, perhaps it was just as well that I ate my 
 dinner in the dark ! All next day I could do nothing, being 
 ill with fever, caught, I fancied, in Pemba. 
 
 I remained continuously on the shambas until the following 
 September, Mr. Weaver taking charge at Magarini whilst I 
 looked after other portions of the estate. 
 
 The wet season was now at its height, with daily heavy 
 downpours of rain — not coming down steadily as on the 
 west coast of India, but in a series of squalls of wind and 
 rain. I had established a rain-gauge, and whilst absent one 
 week I left it in charge of nakoa Feruzi ; on my return I was 
 amused to find that he had been so afraid of any one stealing 
 it that he had taken it into his house every night, only 
 putting it out in the open in the day-time ! — too careful a 
 record for my purpose ! One of my first occupations was 
 putting down some seeds and cuttings I had brought from 
 Zanzibar and Pemba — vanilla, cinnamon, nutmegs, and Ceara 
 rubber. On my way I had identified a Ceara rubber tree — 
 probably originally introduced from Zanzibar — growing in a 
 garden in Mombasa; it was luxuriant and healthy and its 
 appearance encouraging.^ 
 
 ^ I also carried out some interesting experiments with a variety of 
 seeds sent out by the Company, and an extract from my Report for May 
 1892 may prove of interest — 
 
 "A'tv/ Barley. — One field has been set apart for this. The absence of 
 a plough has necessarily been a great drawback, I having had to line 
 and peg out each separate drill or furrow, which was afterwards well dug 
 over. The whole of the seed received — six bags — has now been care- 
 fully sown under my direct supervision, and I trust the result will be 
 satisfactory. 
 
 " Linseed., Lentils and Barbary Beans. — The whole of the above supply 
 of seeds has been sown, and the result will be duly reported. 
 
 " Special samples of Millet {D/inrra). — This has also been sown, and 
 I propose to distribute the seed obtained for sowing next year to the 
 cultivators round here. This introduction of fresh seed should prove most 
 beneficial. 
 
 " Rats. — I would also call attention to the great damage done by rats 
 to sown grain ; they have dug up and destroyed a good deal of barley, and 
 the damage they cause to cultivators is much complained of, the first 
 sowing being often entirely destroyed by these vermin."
 
 l-RAVtLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAK 
 
 I had also received 446 lbs. of Sea Island cotton-seed, and 
 a larije tract of land in a flat valley, with a rich black loamy 
 soil, was being rapidly cleared for sowing it. I had another 
 clearing prepared some distance away for New Orleans seed, 
 so as to keep the two varieties quite distinct ; this latter did 
 not germinate so well as the Sea Island variety, and rats 
 proved very destructive to it. 
 
 The old cotton was also doing well, and by June Mr. 
 Weaver had eight acres under cultivation. When cleaned, 
 apart from its being a very short staple, it suffered from the 
 want of a [jroper ginning machine, being too much tangled 
 
 COTTON tTELU— MAGAUIXI PLANTATIONS. 
 
 and pulled about to be sent home as a fair sample of the first 
 African growth. As previously mentioned, it had been 
 ])ickcd from two-year-old cotton plants originally planted by 
 Suliman bin Abdulla (judging from the flowers, evidently 
 mi.xed seed), and from the young cotton sown by m}'self, 
 mostly Dharwa seed. The cotton, moreover, had been picked 
 by unskilled labourers, to whom the work was entirely new. 
 
 I had great confidence in the Sea Island cotton as the 
 variety most likely to do well, and my belief was not entirely 
 speculative, or based merely upon the adaptability of the soil. 
 Experiments had already been made and attended with a 
 degree of success sufficient to encourage strong hopes. Sea
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 = 59 
 
 Island cotton grown in Mombasa in very light soil that had 
 undergone much previous cultivation, had been valued by 
 brokers in England at an average of 4^d. per lb. The same 
 variety grown by German planters at Lamu was valued at 
 gc/. per lb. 
 
 The experiment was therefore well worth continuing, and 
 I may mention here that it was afterwards so far successful, 
 that samples from these plantations were pronounced to be 
 worth from 6hd. to Shd. per lb. 
 
 The Wanika continued to give satisfaction, and Mr. Weaver 
 was very pleased with them. Many of the Wa-Giryama 
 showed their real interest in the experiments by coming 
 down to see what was being done at Magarini, and amongst 
 them was the important chief Toyo Wabakulo, who declared 
 his intention of sending some of his people down to learn 
 and work with us. 
 
 In June I received a supply of castor-oil seeds and Indian 
 ground-nuts sent out by the Directors. These I arranged 
 to have sown in Nasur bin Suliman's shamba, where the soil 
 was more suitable, and the situation more central amongst 
 other native plantations for cultivators to watch operations. 
 The Liwali of Melindi sent to ask me for a supply of both 
 these seeds, and I requested Mr. Weaver to distribute castor- 
 oil seeds amongst the W^anika and the Wa-Giryama, as I 
 thought the cultivation of this better variety should be 
 specially fostered amongst these two tribes. We sowed four 
 acres with the Indian ground-nuts, which are larger than 
 the native kind. The seed arrived rather late, but was good, 
 and the plants were soon above ground.^ 
 
 ^ Reporting to the Directors of the Company in June 1894, Mr. Weaver 
 mentions having then 140 acres under ground-nut cultivation, sown with 
 three tons of the last year's produce, and says that the neighbouring 
 cultivators fully realized the value of this product, and were much dis- 
 appointed at the non-arrival of seed from Zanzibar which they had made 
 extensiv'e preparations for sowing. "The three tons of nuts planted" 
 (says Air. Weaver in his Report) "have germinated extremely well, and 
 with ordinary success we have reason to expect a return of at least 100 
 tons, but unfortunately quite 55 acres have been eaten up by rats. I 
 think now, however, the plants are too big to be eaten, and that we are 
 henceforward safe under this head, and I see no reason why we should
 
 l6o 'IK.WKI.S IN KAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I sent down to the coast for shi|Mnent io| tons of copra, 
 the produce of 65,000 coco-nuts.' The value of East African 
 copra and the importance of developing its export is evidenced 
 by the broker's report on this trial shipment — 
 
 " Vour small shipment created great interest in this market, 
 and excepting Cochin, we have rarely seen finer copra ; the 
 nut is of great beauty and thickness and well matured, and 
 the qualit)' is fine. It is also well sun-dried, and fairly clean 
 and suitable in ever)- wa)-." 
 
 This lot realized the ver}' excellent figure of £\\ ^s. ]:)er 
 ton, being £\ higher than the current ruling prices. This 
 fine copra is u.sed on the Continent principall}' in the manu- 
 facture of margarine, and goes to the best mills. Its yield 
 was reported to be as high as 64 per cent, of oil.- 
 
 In the gathering of coco-nuts, I arranged for the trees to be 
 inspected regularly every two months, and allo\\-ed only the 
 ripe nuts to be taken. The copra was of course all sun-dried, 
 being carefully co\-ered with mats during showers ; and I 
 could see no reason why, with proper care, it could not be 
 regularl)- dried during at least eight months of the j'ear. 
 
 The transport of the produce from the shambas to the coast 
 caused me some anxiet}' and trouble. The Sabaki had to be 
 crossed on the wa}-, and owing to the want of a proper ferry 
 and the numerous crocodiles, pack animals could not be used. 
 Wy first instalment of copra I sent down by porters. I could 
 
 not reach my former estimate of a 60-ton crop. I do not think there 
 will be any difficulty in pushing the cultivation of ground-nuts — the 
 people are eager enough." 
 
 This plague of rats in 1894 proved very destructive to all cultivation, 
 and Mr. Wea\er speaks of much damage being caused to the coco-nuts, 
 cotton (quite ten acres of the New Orleans variety having been destroyed 
 through the seeds being eaten), and maize. His neighbours were in a 
 still worse plight ; their rice and metamah had been eaten up, and their 
 maize had been rc-so\vn no less than five, and in some cases si.x; times 
 o\er I 
 
 ' " We have gathered 120,000 coco-nuts as against a total of 90,000 for 
 1893." — Mr. Weaver's Report, June 1894. 
 
 ^ ^^ COCO-NUT O/L.—Copr-ci or coppcrah, the dry albuminous pulp 
 contains 54-3 per cent, of oil; dried at 100 it yields 66 per cent." — 
 .Simmonds, Tropical Ai^riciilfitn'.
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 263 
 
 have loaded it in bags and sent it down by camels, but the 
 wear and tear of the frequent loading and unloading which 
 the crossing of the river would necessitate was against this 
 plan, to say nothing of the risk of heavy loads of over five 
 frasilas being upset and damaged. I therefore arranged a 
 system of camel transport, by which the copra was carried in 
 loose mats, one set of camels working between the shambas 
 and the river on one side, and another set between Melindi and 
 the other bank. Two sheds were erected at the river, one to 
 receive and store the copra as the camels brought it down, 
 whilst at the other, after being ferried across in canoes, it was 
 weighed, packed, and sown up by m}- own people in "makandas,"^ 
 
 ' These makandas were made locally. All the mats and mat-bags in 
 use locally for exporting grain — including those in which the Magarini 
 copra was packed — are made from the leaves of the fan palm, a dwarf 
 species allied to the dum palm {Hypkcrne fkebaica), which grows abund- 
 antly all along the coast. The cut lea\es from the palm are called in 
 Swahili "miaa." 
 
 The making of mats, etc., appears to be confined to the Guniah and 
 Shehiri people — the latter Arabs from Sheher in Arabia. 
 
 The Guniahs do not consider the leaves of the dum palm strong 
 enough, and certainly the texture of the fan palm leaf is infinitely 
 stronger and better adapted to the purpose. The Guniahs at Gongoni 
 obtain their supplies of leaves around Ras N'Gomani, from whence they 
 are brought down by dhows. 
 
 One double makanda will hold five frasila (180 lbs.). I succeeded in 
 getting the Guniahs of Gongoni to make mat-bags at the following 
 rates — 100 double makandas at twenty-three and a half rupees. The 
 dimensions are 4 feet 9 inches long, by 2 feet 8 inches wide. 
 
 The above rates and dimensions compared favourably with Lamu prices, 
 and the bags are stronger and better made. The Guniahs held out a 
 long time for four annas a bag, remarking that if they took up mat- 
 making it would henceforth be their livelihood instead of cultivation, but I 
 pointed out to them that if their prices were too high native cultivators 
 would not buy. They accepted the lower rates. 
 
 I gave them an order for 200 makandas, paying them half the price in 
 advance to enable them to start, and promised to order from them all the 
 mats required on the shambas for drying grain. 
 
 I may remark, that mat-bags are far cheaper than gunnies, which cost 
 $15 per 100, and one gunny bag would not hold more than 80 lbs. of copra 
 at the outside. 
 
 The following comparison will show the saving in price — 
 
 200 makandas costing 47 rupees will hold 1000 frasilas. 
 200 gunnies „ 64 „ „ „ 457 „
 
 264 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chai', 
 
 of five frasilas each. (N.B. The frasila on the mainland = 
 36 lbs., or I lb. more than the Zanzibar frasila, which equals 
 35 lbs.) I made arrangements with a contractor in Mombrui 
 and ]\Ie!indi to supply the number of camels required from 
 time to time, and the arrangements worked very satisfactorily. 
 The weight a camel can carry is surprising ; on one occasion 
 six camels each carried a load of 540 lbs. from the shambas 
 to the nearest store-shed ! 
 
 I ascertained that the camels in use all came from Kismayu, 
 and are valued at from .^40 to 850 a head — about the same 
 price as a good Muscat donkey. They are fed on dates, 
 grass, and green leaves. Mombrui having more bush, suits 
 them better than JNIelindi. They require care, and do not 
 thrive well at any distance from the sea. 
 
 I also cleared a road 10 feet wide to the Sabaki. This 
 road, about five miles in length, was easy and well adapted 
 for camels, and shortened the distance to the river considerably. 
 The cutting of a 20-feet-wide road all round the shambas 
 was another task. This also served as a fire boundary, much 
 damage having been caused just before my return from 
 Zanzibar by a fire spreading to one of the plantations from 
 outside. One or two other much-needed roads were made 
 through the shambas, and these, together with the systematic 
 work now in force, soon caused the plantation to assume a 
 new appearance. 
 
 The establishment, under regulations, (jf an Indian shop 
 both at the village of Boma-Upandi and at Magarini, for 
 the benefit and encouragement of the Wanika, was another 
 project worth mentioning, and one in which the Liwali of 
 Mombrui took an active interest. 
 
 We hoped that the display of cloths, etc., at their very 
 doors would stimulate the people to \york in order to obtain 
 them, either by their wages or from the sale of their produce. 
 
 Mr. Weaver was now living in a temporary hut on 
 Magarini Hill, this being most conveniently situated for the 
 supervision of the cotton and other experimental cultivation 
 and the Wanika labour. I had my quarters in the outlying 
 Xghanima shamba, on a low knoll commanding a distant 
 view of the sea and the Mombrui Mills. I was driven from
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' f 
 
 ■ ■■.,•¥■
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AP^RICA 267 
 
 my old quarters in Shamba M'Pandiani by the nightly songs 
 and dances of the estate people in their village close by, often 
 kept up till a ver)' late hour, and as I did my writing at night 
 I moved to a quieter spot. 
 
 My shed was an open one, and besides admitting plenty of 
 fresh air, afforded me many a beautiful view of the distant 
 sea in the lovel}- moonlight of the tropics. I have spoken of 
 rats, and many a sleepless night these \-ermin caused me, not 
 exactly by worrj- over the damage they were causing to 
 cultiv-ation, but by racing about my shed, upsetting bottles, 
 cups, plates, etc., and frequently compelling me to turn out. 
 With snakes too I had some acquaintance. One day I killed 
 a snake inside the hut, and told one of my people- to skin it. 
 He brought the skin minus the head. On inquiring the 
 reason, I was told it was the custom when venomous snakes 
 were killed, to cut the head off and bur}- it to prevent wizards 
 making a bad medicine out of it ! 
 
 Another day a dead p)'thon was brought to me which had 
 been killed in a neighbouring shamba whilst attacking a goat. 
 It was already coiled round the poor animal, the third it had 
 killed, and showed fight, but was shot. It measured 12 feet 
 6 inches in length. 
 
 On another occasion some Arabs brought mc a pjlhon 
 they had killed in the bush ; it was 14-^- feet long. The 
 people told me that pythons after killing their prey alwa}'s 
 look to see if there are any ants about, and that if there 
 should be, they will abandon their prey and go away. 
 Whether this is true or not I cannot say. If it is, it shows a 
 wonderful instinct, as the snake l}'ing gorged and torpid 
 while digesting its meal would be entirely at the mercy of the 
 ants. 
 
 Puff-adders were amongst other unwelcome visitors, and I 
 killed two inside my hut. These snakes are most deadly ; 
 fortunately they are very sluggish in their movements. 
 
 My nakoa Ambari aj^peared to possess special power over 
 these snakes, which the natives, who thoroughly believed in it 
 said was derived through a " charm " : thus one day he arrived 
 dragging by a rope fastened round its neck a large puff-adder 
 he had caught in one of the plantations. The snake was
 
 268 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 quite unharmed, so I thought it a good opportunity to send it 
 to ICngland. I got a box ready, but the difficulty was how to 
 get the snake into it ! 
 
 Ik^fore I could prevent him, Ambari stooped down, un- 
 fastened the rope round its neck, and lifted the snake into the 
 box, where it remained perfectly quiet and passive. As it 
 was a good three days' overland journey to Mombasa, Ambari 
 suggested putting a couple of hen's eggs in the box as food on 
 the way, actually placing one near its head without its 
 attempting to touch him. I nailed up the box secureh', and 
 sent it off the same day by a special messenger. 
 
 I subsequently heard that the gentleman to whom I sent 
 it for shipment received a rather startling shock when the 
 box reached him ; I had placed a large placard on the box 
 notifying its contents, for the voyage to England, and had 
 written a note to him asking that a stronger box should be 
 made. The gentleman forgetting the letter and thinking 
 the box contained some curios, took it to his house, and 
 placing it on a table with the placard downwards, endeavoured 
 to open it ; luckily he found it difficult, and turning it o\'er, 
 lo and behold the notice — " This Box contains a Live Puff- 
 Adder ! ! ! " stared him in the face ! 
 
 The snake reached England safe and sound, and was sent 
 by the Directors to the Zoological Gardens in Regent's Park^ 
 where I had the pleasure of seeing it on my return home. 
 
 Ambari brought me another puff-adder a few days after- 
 wards, but one was enough, so I told him to kill it, which he 
 did in a curious manner. The snake was lying almost in a 
 straight line : Ambari walked up close to its head — it never 
 moving — and placed his stick gently upon its head, and then 
 drove it through to the ground. I observed that Ambari 
 after handling the snakes had a trembling fit, and, if he could, 
 would get drunk on coco-nut toddy. A message was brought 
 to me one day that one of the estate women had been bitten 
 by a poisonous snake, which had escaped. I found her in 
 great pain, and vomiting, and her left leg (she had been bitten 
 in the ankle) greatly swollen. I tied a tight ligature above 
 the wound, which I lanced, bathing it freely in warm water, 
 and gave her nearly half a bottle of raw whisk)-. After an

 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 !7I 
 
 hour there was a decided improvement, and when I went to 
 see her next morning she was almost well. 
 
 In September I found it necessary to go again to Jelori, 
 this time travelling direct from Magarini by the native path 
 I have spoken of before, instead of going up as formerly by 
 Melindi. 
 
 My present visit had reference to a question concerning the 
 Church Missionary Society settlement there. Mr. Hooper had 
 called attention to the settlement of undesirable people in 
 
 ^^ 
 
 MR. WEAVER S HLT— MAGARIM. 
 
 close proximity to the station, and desired that a boundary 
 should be delimited, within which the Mission should not be 
 intruded upon by objectionable outsiders from the coast. I 
 was quite at one with Mr. Hooper in the matter, and as we 
 held the same views in regard to the improvement, moral 
 and industrial, of the native tribes, it was very easily arranged. 
 As the reader is aware, it had been my idea to bring down 
 the Watoro from Makongeni and settle them at Jelori. This, 
 however, I was obliged to abandon for the present, owing to
 
 272 TRAVP:I.S in KAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 H change in the attitude of the W'atoro, brought about by 
 hostile Arab influence. I therefore proposed that an experi- 
 mental plantation should be established outside the bound- 
 aries of the Mission property to be worked by the Wa- 
 (iir\ama and neighbouring aboriginal tribes alone, and that 
 the products to be introduced to include jute, Egyptian, 
 Sea Island, and New Orleans cotton, tobacco, castor-oil, and 
 indiarubber. By this means the whole of the land round 
 the lake and the Missif)n \\'ould gradually be brought under 
 cultivation. 
 
 As the land would thus be taken up by degrees, either b)- 
 the people of the Mission or by the Wa-Giryama, and all 
 undesirable people consequently excluded, the object Mr. 
 Hooper desired would be secured under the Company's 
 guarantee, without the necessity of delimiting boundaries, and 
 to this proposal Mr. Hooper cordially agreed,^ This then was 
 the object of my present journey. 
 
 ' The proposed plantation at Jelori was thus referred to in a letter of 
 September 27, 1892 — 
 
 " I have specially noted the interesting communication from -Sir John 
 Kirk suggesting — 
 
 " 1st. The formation of a small nursery garden, say of about four acres, 
 under the charge of a skilled Kew gardener, where useful plants, suitable 
 to the country, could be carefully cultivated and distributed. 
 
 " 2nd. That many plants and seeds could be obtained from the private 
 experimental garden established by Sir John Kirk in Zanzibar. 
 
 " 3rd. The suggested experiment of Olkic cultivation, and the inquiries 
 made as to the present cultivation of new products. 
 
 " I will take up these questions in their order — 
 
 " NURSERV G.\rdf:n. — This suggestion is altogether excellent, and the 
 suggested plantation at Jelori offers a favourable site for its formation. 
 
 " G.\RDENER IN CHARGE. — A trained native gardener from one of the 
 (^lOvernment Botanical Gardens in India or Ceylon would be thoroughly 
 competent to take charge of one at a \-ery much smaller salary than 
 would have to be paid to a European. 
 
 "Cui,Tiv.\TlON OF New Products. — Concerning this I would suggest 
 that first attempts should be directed to the encouragement and extension 
 of such known products as are suitable to the Coast-lands, such as 
 i(ho-/iiits, cotfon, tobacco, i^rounii-niifs, etc. This, I would point out, 
 apart from its own desirability, is very necessary in order to stimulate 
 and develop the now undoubtedly declining coast cultivation. Once this 
 is well under weigh, I would recommend that the introduction of all new
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 273 
 
 Leaving Magarini at 8.30 a.m. I traversed the same low- 
 lying bush and forest country as previously described, and 
 was again struck with the deep black soil, so well adapted 
 for the growth of cotton. The Sabaki having been reached 
 at three o'clock — I had made several halts on the way — I 
 waded across the river, then about 2| to 3 feet deep, first 
 firing one or two shots into the water to frighten away 
 crocodiles. I then sat on the bank to dry and to await my 
 cook and breakfast, but as he did not turn up I was glad to 
 reach Mr. Hooper's hospitable house. 
 
 Whilst waiting next morning for the inevitable " shauri " 
 with the various head-men, I punted out to the island in the 
 lake, and succeeded in shooting a big hippo, which was lying 
 with its head exposed about 30 yards away. In the afternoon 
 I had a very satisfactory interview with the principal head- 
 men from both sides of the river, who again expressed their 
 readiness to forward m}' plans by every means in their power. 
 
 In the afternoon, strolling along the shore of the lake, I 
 successfully stalked a sleeping crocodile, which I bowled over 
 with a bullet through its spine. I was always glad to kill one 
 of these horrid brutes ! 
 
 I dined with Mr. Hooper that evening, and was much 
 interested in some Somali children — the first I had seen — 
 who had been sent up from Mombasa. It was quite amusing 
 to watch their wrath and indignation on my telling them in 
 fun that they were Gallas and not Somalis — one of them, a 
 rather nice-looking girl about ten, actually cried with vex- 
 ation. " It is not true ; we are Somalis — the Gallas are the 
 slaves of the Somalis ! " they exclaimed. 
 
 products deemed suitable to the country should be strongly taken up, as 
 by that time the natives will be better able to understand and avail them- 
 selves of them. This is how the impoitant question of the development 
 of cultivation presents itself to me, and as a further means of extending 
 it, I would strongly urge that either the Magarini shambas, or more 
 particularly the suggested plantation at Jelori, should be made the 
 Central Station for all experimental cultivation, and, after suitable experi- 
 ments have been made, distribute, with the necessary directions, the 
 seeds and plants to the various stations and districts in the Company's 
 territory. The monthly Report from this Central Station would convey 
 a full and detailed account of the progress of agriculture and cultivation." 
 
 T
 
 274 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The following day, Saturday, September lo, I started off 
 on what turned out to be a very long and hard march. 
 Having long wished to examine the country on the other 
 side of the lake, I now resolved to take this opportunity of 
 doing so, as it was now necessary to know this part of the 
 country. 
 
 Toyo Wabakulo, the Giryama chief, who had stayed to wish 
 me good-bye, declared it would take me two days to go round 
 the lake, and asked me to fire a gun to let him know where I 
 would camp that night, and that wherever it might be, he 
 would send me supplies. Mr. Hooper, however, assured me that 
 at the most it would only take five hours ; that Mr. Burt had 
 once been compelled to travel round that way owing to the 
 other road being flooded. I quote from my diary the follow- 
 ing notes of my journey — 
 
 I started punctually at 7 a.m. from camp. 
 
 "Western side of Lake. — At first open glades and 
 black soil — then forest — black loamy soil — track which is 
 much overgrown, frequently winding round the bays of lake 
 — flat shores flooded in rains — well adapted for Egyptian 
 cotton. 
 
 " Southern Side. — Open forest with red soil — a good 
 deal of iron in soil — southern side more hilly — then skirting 
 slope of Sekoki Hill till 10.30 a.m., when emerged on open 
 rocky land (iron). From here obtained a lovely view over, 
 the whole lake lying below. Then tramped for an hour 
 through thick forest, but no large trees. Soil red — a great 
 deal of ' n'konge,' but mostly small. Further on soil more 
 chocolate and loam}-, with larger trees." 
 
 I was still following the slope of Sekoki Hill, eventually 
 arriving at the ford at the bottom of the hill, where I joined 
 Weaver's road. Here I halted to rest and get water, and allow 
 my porters to come up. I had a pailful of honey, which Toyo 
 Wabakulo had given me. I passed it on to m}' porters, who 
 regaled themselves with it, though I warned them how thirsty 
 it would make them. We continued along the new road, which 
 I was sorry to notice was getting overgrown ; it was intensely 
 hot. We got to m)- old camp at 'Slcre shamba at 4 p.m. Here 
 I got some green coco-nuts, and drank the contents of about
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 277 
 
 five Straight off! My porters had been most willing, and had 
 kept up with me all through, so I offered to camp where I 
 was for the night, and go on to Melindi next day. 
 
 But all were keen to go on, so after a hasty meal of tea and 
 biscuit and potted meat we pushed on at 5 p.m. It got so 
 dark before we arrived that we ended by losing our way, 
 eventually getting into the outskirts of Melindi and having to 
 retrace our steps along the beach, finally reaching our camp- 
 ing-place at 7.30 p.m. Helped to pitch my camp by lantern- 
 light and sat down to dinner at 8.30 p.m. It had been a hard 
 day's work, as we were marching steadily for a good eleven 
 hours with only one hour's rest. We must have walked 
 considerably over thirty miles. I was very pleased with my 
 people. They had kept up most bravely all through this 
 burning hot day. I told them how satisfied I was, and gave 
 them double posho (food allowance) as a reward. The next 
 day, after seeing the Liwali and the Company's officer, I 
 returned to the shambas. The grain harvest was now well on, 
 and the first time I was present at the reaping of one of our 
 metamah fields, I was rather taken aback by all the estate 
 women, the moment work was stopped, suddenly making a 
 demonstration in my honour by forming themselves in a sort 
 of procession and running round me waving small flags made 
 of red cloth, and screaming shrilly. This was an ovation that 
 I was not prepared for ! 
 
 I was startled a few days afterwards by being told that 
 a gun and the mutilated fragments of a human body had been 
 found about a mile down the road I had recently cleared 
 to Sabaki. The unfortunate man had been pulled down by a 
 lion. My people were greatly alarmed, and declared that 
 every year many people were killed by lions, and that this was 
 their season for coming down. A case was related of a lion 
 actually trying to claw a woman out of a hut on an adjoining 
 shamba, her leg being badly hurt ; another of a man being 
 carried off from Shamba Baraka the year before. My cook 
 was in a great state of alarm and begged for a gun, but I told 
 him he had a door to his house, while I slept in an open shed, 
 and I thought the Hon would visit me first ! The next day 
 we were told that a donkey had been killed outside Melindi,
 
 TRWICI-S IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 and I wondered if it was by the same lion. There was a good 
 deal of excitement over these dangerous visitors, and at the 
 remoter houses drums were beaten all night. There was no 
 doubt that lions were about, as several were roaring all night, 
 sometimes unpleasant!)- near. I gave out a rifle to my two 
 servants who lived in a hut close by, and kept a lantern burn- 
 ing outside my hut, and a loaded rifle hand}-. Two lions 
 and a cub were reported to be near the Sabaki going about 
 openly in the daytime ; the people were so much alarmed that 
 they shut themselves up in their houses. Eventuall}- the lions 
 departed as suddenly as they came. 
 
 A Suria (concubine) of a neighbouring Arab shamba-owner 
 came one day to complain to me of her owner having ill-used 
 her ; on inquiry it turned out that he had only slapped her 
 with his hand for something she had said or done. I told her 
 the hearing of such complaints concerned the Compan\-'s 
 officer at ]\Ielindi, and offered to send her there. As, however, 
 she refused to go, I sent for her lord and master and persuaded 
 the woman to return to him, as I thought her complaint a 
 trivial one, but warned him that if ever a serious complaint 
 was made b}- a slave I should interfere at once. 
 
 On another occasion a freed woman living at Boma Upandi 
 came to complain of her husband, a Shehiri Arab ; she wanted 
 a divorce because whenever he went awa}' from home he 
 locked her up. To this she strongly objected, sa\-ing what 
 would happen to her supposing the house caught fire ! I 
 thought that very likely the husband might have private 
 reasons for shutting her up in his absence, but promised to lay 
 the matter before the Liwali. 
 
 Another day a brother of Ahmed Bedwin (another neigh- 
 bouring Arab and a great shikari) came to complain that 
 although his brother, who had gone off on a shooting expedition, 
 had left him in charge of everything, }'et on trying to enter 
 his brother's house, one of the slaves had prevented him and 
 actually beaten him, saying he had no orders to let him in ! 
 
 I suggested waiting till Ahmed Bedwin's return, when the 
 two could come to me and talk it over. This was done, 
 and ever}-thing was satisfactorily arranged and explained ; 
 but I was surprised at the licence permitted to slaves as
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 281 
 
 evidenced by this case, and at one darinc^ to raise his hand 
 against an Arab ! 
 
 The grain harvest being now over, I availed myself of the 
 slack time that followed to go down to Mombasa, having to 
 see the Administrator on various important matters. 
 
 I left on Monday, September 19, travelling overland. I 
 followed my new road to the Sabaki, and after catching up 
 my porters and losing much time through continually missing 
 the way, I found myself at length on the road to Watamu. 
 Had breakfast under a mango tree, and then started off through 
 forest and bush, with occasional open shambas, and latterly 
 over a continuous outcrop of coral. Watamu, about eleven 
 miles distant from Melindi, is a pretty little town picturesquely 
 situated on a small bay with numerous coral rocks. There is 
 a fine sandy beach in front of the town, which belongs to Salim 
 bin Hamisi of Takaungu. Low bush and plentiful outcrop of 
 coral rock are the chief characteristics of the country round 
 the town, with the usual open cultivation. 1 was surprised to 
 see so few coco-nuts grown. A few dhows are built here. I 
 camped near the custom-house, my tent being the centre of 
 the usual curious crowd. 
 
 I left next morning at 6 a.m., travelling along the sea-shore, 
 having been told this was a much shorter way than going 
 round by M'Shaka. The beach was sandy with numerous high 
 coral rocks, and so slippery that we had to crawl over them 
 further on, to avoid the rising tide, several of my porters 
 getting falls. 
 
 At eight o'clock we crossed the deep bay called Uyambu 
 creek in a canoe, the current being very strong. Beyond we 
 struck inland to reach Uyambu, a small town or village, which 
 we reached at nine o'clock. It is not on the sea as shown in 
 the maps. Thence through continuous bush with occasional 
 but very few shambas, we arrived at Roka at 1 1 a.m. and at 
 M'Tondoa at 4 p.m. Here I stopped for the night. 
 
 Next morning, September 20, I started on a new path 
 to Konjora, having been informed that by sleeping one night 
 on the road I should reach Rabai (the Missionary Station near 
 Mombasa) by 4.30 the following day. This new path was a 
 much better one than the one I travelled by when last here ;
 
 2S2 IKAXELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAl'. 
 
 the lay of the land was more level, and nearly the whole of 
 the wa)' was through fine forest country with many wild 
 c}xads. C'omini;" out on the high ridge above Konjora I 
 descended, as before, a very steep path leading to the small 
 ridge abo\e the sea-creek. 
 
 I halted here to rest m}- people and to get water, and then 
 Mas off again to M'Tanganiko, one hour distant, where, after 
 some stiff climbs up the ridges, I duly arrived, to learn that 
 Salim bin Hamisi was there. I walked over to his house 
 to call on him and had an interesting conversation. He was 
 most cordial, and presented me with a fat sheep. He had just 
 heard that the Uganda Railway Survey caravan had arrived in 
 Mombasa, all well. He desired me to tell the Administrator 
 with his salaams and respects that he was ready to furnish 
 men for railway work if required. 
 
 I started off again at 1.30 p.m., now marching through — 
 to me — quite unknown countr)-. 
 
 The river flowing through this valley was, I was told, 7/ot 
 the Kilifi, but the N'Zovoni river. This river and another 
 flowing from Fuladoyo (shown on the maps as Voi) meet at 
 M'Tanganiko, and both fall into the Kilifi creek. 
 
 The N'Zovoni river is said to be a large stream flowing 
 through the Giryama countr}-, with a depth of 4 to 5 feet in 
 the wet season, but dr}'ing up in the hot weather, when onl}- 
 occasional pools are found in the hollows of the rocks forming- 
 its bed. It enters Kilifi creek through a narrow opening at 
 the top of the valley. Following the path, I passed through 
 numerous Wa-Kahomo clearings, and over flat rich valleys and 
 low ridges, getting an occasional glimpse of the N'Zovoni river, 
 which I was told flows through this part of the countr}' for 
 some distance ahead. At 3 p.m. I came upon the very large 
 native village, Kaya-Kohomo, which is the chief village of the 
 Wa-Kahomo people and about six to seven miles' distance from 
 M'Tanganiko. Mr. Burt, the missionar}' from Jelori, was 
 camped here on one of his proselytizing tours, so I halted 
 for the night. 
 
 I went down to look at the N'Zovoni river flowing close by ; 
 it was now narrow and shallow, but the people told me that 
 during the rains the volume of water was \"er}- much ir.creased.
 
 XIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 285 
 
 I was much interested to find that these people cultivated 
 coco-nuts, chiefly I am afraid for the manufacture of "tembo" 
 (toddy), but they also sold some nuts. I also visited a fairly 
 large plantation situated close to the river, surrounded by some 
 very fine forest trees. The coco-nuts were very lanky, being 
 planted exceedingly close together, and intermingled with 
 some orange and papaw trees. 
 
 I dined with Mr. Burt, whom I was sorry to find not at all 
 well, and no wonder, as he had to rough it a great deal. 
 
 I was very sorry to hear of the frequent quarrels prevalent 
 amongst the native villagers, chiefly confined to the Wa- 
 Giryama, fights being the result. No poisoned arrows are, 
 however, used in inter-tribal quarrels. I heard of a Girj^ama 
 under the influence of "tembo" splitting open the skull of a 
 little babe in its mother's arms. To atone for this the man 
 would have to give up two men, and it is the difficulty in 
 obtaining these men that leads to the frequent fights. 
 
 A big devil dance took place in the village and went on the 
 greater part of the night, and prevented me from getting much 
 sleep. 
 
 I bade good-bye to Mr. Burt early next morning, the next 
 stage on my journey being a place called Manzai, said to be 
 seven hours away, which, I was told, was the nearest place 
 where we should find water. We camped for breakfast at a 
 Wanika village on the way and got water from a hole, rested 
 here an hour and set off again, reaching Manzai late in the 
 afternoon. This place lies in a lovely hollow, with coco-nuts 
 (as usual too close) and a charming brook of clear pure water 
 — a very great treat ! In the night I heard a leopard growling 
 close by. I went after him, but it was too dark to see 
 anything. 
 
 After a hard tramp over many low hills, and through some 
 coco-nut cultivation, passing Ribe (London Missionary 
 Society's station), three hours from Manzai, I reached Frere 
 Town, the seaside station of the Church Missionary Society 
 on Mombasa Harbour, at 3 p.m. Here I had the pleasure of 
 calling on and having a cup of tea with Bishop Tucker, who 
 was then preparing to start for Uganda. 
 
 I remained at Mombasa twelve da}^s, having several impor-
 
 286 
 
 IR.WKI.S IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAK 
 
 tant conferences with the Company's Administrator, who 
 entered into strongly, and warmly supported, my proposals 
 for the agricultural development of the coast-lands. I found 
 the Railway Survey party back in Mombasa; they had com- 
 pleted their task under the command of Captain Pringle, 
 Captain Macdonald having had to return to Uganda to 
 report on the fighting which had been going on there. 
 
 On September 27 I accompanied Mr. Berkeley to Frere 
 Town to say good-bye, and wish God-speed to Bishop Tucker» 
 who was that day starting for Uganda, accompanied by seven 
 English missionaries. It was quite an impressive and touching 
 
 KKKRK TOWN BAY. 
 
 spectacle, all the Christian converts crowding round the 
 Bishop, whilst the Mission children sang hymns. 
 
 On October 4 I started on my return journey to Alagarini, 
 intending to proceed by Rabai and the regular caravan route 
 through the Giryama country. My party was increased by 
 twenty-one of the estate people, who had just been paid off 
 from a returning caravan from Uganda, and were now returning 
 home with me. 
 
 Crossing the ferry at Makupa, between Mombasa Island 
 and the mainland, I found that the land rises from the water 
 in a series of bare and exposed ridges, beyond which extends 
 a flat cultivated area with coco-nut and banana shambas..
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 287 
 
 while further on the path crosses two back-waters divided 
 by steep ridges. Beyond these I came upon a small village 
 surrounded by coco-nut trees. Their appearance was en- 
 couraging, and judging from the soil they were growing in, 
 I could see no reason why their cultivation should not be 
 largely extended here. 
 
 Passing a third back-water, fringed with mangroves, and 
 crossing in a due northerly direction over broken country, 
 chiefly grass, with scattered bush and fan palms, the country 
 became more hilly, till the low ridge of the Rabai Hills, 600 
 feet in elevation, rose in front. Cultivation was again ap- 
 parent, and I passed some good castor-oil and coco-nuts 
 scattered in clumps, camping below Rabai, another C. AT. S. 
 station ten and a half miles from Frere Town and about eleven 
 from Mombasa. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Jones, a Swahili clergyman whom I visited 
 here, gave me some useful information concerning the Mission 
 Station and surrounding country, and I was much interested 
 to learn that the Society had constructed a large reservoir 
 capable of holding a sufficient supply of water for one year 
 should the absence of rain cause the usual supply to dry up. 
 The depth of water in the deepest place is 12 feet. This is 
 most enterprising, and reflects great credit on the Societ}% 
 
 There was heavy dew at night, and at this comparative 
 elevation the night felt quite chilly after IMombasa. I struck 
 camp and left at 6.30 a.m. The path led through Rabai, a 
 fair-sized village, the large iron-roofed church being a notice- 
 able object. Half-an-hour's march beyond I crossed the 
 river Kombe, which was nearly dry, the water lying in the 
 hollows of the rocky granite bed. For six miles beyond, 
 going northwards towards U-Giryama, the country was grassy 
 and undulating, with low hills all round and the land fairly 
 well cultivated, and I was pleased to notice a large number of 
 coco-nut trees, irregularly planted but of a healthy appear- 
 ance, which I understood had been planted by the Wanika 
 and other converts of the Rabai Alission ; the luxuriant 
 guinea-grass bore witness to the richness of the soil. 
 
 It seems to me that a company or syndicate could do much 
 to develop this portion of the country by establishing an
 
 288 TRAVELS IN EAST AERICA 
 
 agency at the end of Rabai creek, and purchasing copra and 
 coir from the people, with another depot at M'Tanganiko or 
 some other suitable place. The whole of the Gir)-ama country 
 could thus be tapped, and a ready purchase of native produce 
 would increase its cultivation, an easy means of export being 
 afforded b)' the Kilifi back-water, which is navigable b)- dhows 
 or steam launches up to M'Tanganiko. Such a scheme would 
 be profitable to those undertaking it and of great advantage 
 to the countr}-. 
 
 The soil ma}' be summarized as follows — 
 For six miles round Rabai, of a rich dark to grey loam 
 often of great depth ; beyond of a rich black loam in the 
 valleys with a red porous clay and sandstone subsoil ; on the 
 ridges of a more friable chocolate to brown, in places reddish, 
 indicating the presence of iron. About twelve miles from 
 Rabai we halted for an hour in a fine coco-nut clump, 
 situated in a lovel}- valley with a spring of water, named 
 Amasha, belonging to a tribe called Wa-Gibana, who I 
 understand live close to Manzai. 
 
 Starting again at noon, and still proceeding northwards 
 over a grass country apparently well-inhabited, judging from 
 the numerous tracks branching off on either side of the path, 
 I passed one or two solitary borassus palms with man\' 
 scattered coco-nut clumps, which I remarked were growing 
 chiefl}' in low hollows or valleys. They were very health}' 
 as a rule, but too closely planted, and the ground below 
 was usually choked with grass. 
 
 After passing a stream called Chilani about fourteen miles 
 from Rabai, the countr}' became decidedly hilly with a good 
 deal of Giryama cultivation, gradually merging into open 
 forest, the trees having a very silvery bark. The forest gradu- 
 all}' became thicker (mostl}' }'oung trees growing very closel}' 
 together), the soil a very friable loam gre}', with granite rock. I 
 noticed several c}'cacls and some \'er}' large-leaved Sanscvieria 
 growing here. 
 
 Once through this, the country became more open but still 
 hilly, until, at 6 p.m., I reached the N'Zovoni river, where I 
 camped for the night. 
 
 The N'Zovoni, which I went down to examine, here flows
 
 "liii'ili'T I r ■uliirnrfr' if 
 
 ^k^JraC^K
 
 XIV. TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 29! 
 
 through a narrow deep gully. The river-bed, of dark-coloured 
 rock, was then quite dry with the exception of a few pools of 
 rain-water, but the Wa-Giryama informed me that the river is 
 fully 5 to 5 A feet deep in the rainy season, and often quite 
 impassable, thus confirming what I had been told at M'Tan- 
 ganiko. I estimate the distance from here to Rabai to be 
 twenty-one miles. 
 
 The following morning felt quite chilly, and I noticed my 
 breath made vapour as at home ! Leaving at 7 a.m., and 
 crossing the N'Zovoni river, I continued in a northerly direction 
 through level open forest country, crossing a small stream 
 flowing through a valley, in thick forest, with a good deal of 
 granite rock. Forest alternated with scattered Giryama 
 clearings till I struck the direct path to M'Tanganiko at 
 8.35, or four miles from the N'Zovoni river, the other path con- 
 tinuing on to M'Waiba, said to be six miles from M'Tanganiko. 
 The same description of country continued beyond, and the soil 
 everywhere appeared very good and of a brown to chocolate 
 loam. In one part of the forest I passed a thick growth of 
 euphorbia, and afterwards in open country patches of pine- 
 apples, many of them forming regular clumps. These latter 
 grow wild and spread rapidly, proving how readily they could 
 be cultivated if required. Sansevieria guiiieensis was also 
 most plentiful, growing amongst the forest undergrowth. 
 
 I reached the Company's shamba at M'Tanganiko at 10.45, 
 and after a brief rest went on to the village of that name, 
 which I estimated to be about twelve miles from my last camp 
 on N'Zovoni river. 
 
 Thence I proceeded to Konjora, and was delayed by having 
 to visit Sheikh Salim bin Hamisi, who had now moved 
 thither ; after drinking some coffee and sherbet with him I 
 finally left at 2.50 for M'Tondoa, which I was glad to reach 
 at 5.30 p.m. I camped here for the night. 
 
 Leaving M'Tondoa next morning I halted at Roka only 
 long enough to rest my people and give them water, and then 
 pursued my journey. It was fearfully hot marching ; we 
 travelled along the telegraph-line, which had been recently 
 cleared. The high bush and forest on each side completely 
 shut out every breath of air. About noon we reached
 
 292 TKAXKLS IN EAST AFRICA CH. xiV 
 
 M'Shaka, and I was glad to halt for breakfast at the same 
 delectable water-hole that I described on my journey down to 
 Zanzibar. The water was as black and thick as ever, and the 
 tea made from it was like ink! I drank it, however, which 
 was more than I was able to do at the water-hole further on. 
 This was on the outskirts of the Melindi shambas, the por- 
 ters discovering it close to the path; they brought some to me, 
 declaring it to be " sweet " and " beautiful," but it smelt so 
 horribly that, thirsty as I was, I had to decline it with thanks 
 — the first time I had not been able to drink African water, so 
 the reader can imagine what it was like ! 
 
 That evening I camped at Matagi. I had about three 
 men to a load, but even so they quite knocked up with the 
 heat, and it was not till long after dark that the last man 
 straggled in. 
 
 Next day we got back to the shambas and made quite an 
 imposing entry. One man had a drum, and another blew 
 vigorously on a penny trumpet he had bought in Mombasa, 
 and with the flag waving in front we marched in triumphantly. 
 All the women in the shambas who knew of the returning 
 Uganda porters raised a shrill cry of welcome as they 
 passed by, and I was not sorry to see my humble shed once 
 more.
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 LAKE KRAWA 
 
 Nubian Labourers — Proposed Visit of Sir Gerald Portal — Start to explore 
 Lake Krawa — Arab Shikaries — My Caravan Astray — A Long Fast — • 
 Oil Palms— Lake Krawa and the Kilifi River — Game — Mosquitoes — 
 Reconnoitring the Country — Return to the Shambas — Scarcity of Grain 
 — Disinterested Arabs — Flooded Back-waters — Dead Beat — Sir Gerald 
 Portal's Mission to Uganda — A Shooting Party— A Lion Story — • 
 Christmas at Mombasa — A Wretched New Year's Day — Fever- 
 Mango Crop — Mr. Weaver's Work at the Shambas. 
 
 Thanks to Weaver's watchful supervision all was going on 
 well on the shambas. 
 
 Lions had again made their appearance, and made an 
 awful row the night of my return, roaring all night through. 
 Weaver, who had come down to see me, and had walked 
 back to Magarini after dinner, wrote next morning that 
 they must have been very close to him as he went home. 
 
 I was glad to receive a satisfactory report of the behaviour 
 of a recent addition to the estate labourers — some Nubians 
 from Emin Pasha's Equatorial Province, who had been brought 
 down to Mombasa by one of the Uganda caravans. Not 
 wishing to go to Egypt they came up to these plantations, 
 and appeared to be industrious and willing. 
 
 While at Mombasa, Mr. Berkeley told me that the Consul- 
 General at Zanzibar (the late Sir Gerald Portal) proposed 
 visiting the Melindi district, and would be glad to get a little 
 wild-game shooting at the same time, if this could be managed. 
 He asked me to make any necessary arrangements. 
 
 When last at Marereni I had heard a good deal of the game 
 to be found one or two da)'s' march to the northward, parti- 
 
 295
 
 296 TR.WEI.S IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 cuhirl)- at l-akc Krawa, a larL^c swam]) or lake some distance 
 above Mareivni ; so I determined to 140 and have a look at 
 the place, and sec what were its possibilities in this respect. 
 Accordini^ly I started for Krawa on October 13, with a 
 few porters, accompanied by Bwana Ahmed Bedwin and his 
 brother, Arabs, and both noted shikaries, who had killed all 
 kinds of larger game — Hons, elephants, etc. They also 
 possessed a thorough knowledge of the countr)- I wanted to 
 visit. 
 
 Nothing of special note occurred during the first part of 
 our journey ; it was high tide, and all the mangrove swamps 
 along our path were flooded ; Bwana Bedwin said that a 
 similar high tide occurred every ten days. 
 
 After leaving Gongoni, we had for some time been following 
 the direct path to Marereni, when the Arabs suddenly struck 
 off to the left, saying it was much shorter. All my porters 
 were behind, our front party consisting only of the Arabs, 
 myself, an Arab soldier, and my faithful head-man Dumgu ; 
 so I sent the last-named back to tell the porters of this 
 shorter road, and to say that we would await them at a small 
 pool some distance ahead, about six miles from Marereni. 
 We waited some time at this pool, and as the porters did not 
 appear, I sent off the Kiroboto or Arab soldier to look out for 
 them. Two o'clock passed and still no sign of them. Bedwin 
 fired off his gun twice on the chance of their hearing it, and 
 then sent his brother to look for them. 
 
 After a very long time the Kiroboto returned from Marereni 
 and reported no sign of the porters ; then Bedwin's brother 
 presently returned, also unsuccessful, and matters began to 
 look serious. The Arabs told me it was the custom of porters 
 when left alone to simply march on and on ! 
 
 We were all very hungr}', and the five of us shared a 
 metamah biscuit which the askari had with him. I was 
 just about to send him off a second time when Dumgu at last 
 appeared with a tin of biscuits. He had found the porters, 
 and they were following him ; it seems they had passed 
 our turn to the left, and where they had gone to goodness 
 onl}' knows ; they were marching straight ahead and tr}-ing 
 to o\-ertake me, when luckil}- thc}' heard Bedwin's two
 
 XV 
 
 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 297 
 
 .shots ; sf) the)' liad alrcad)' turned back when l)umL;"u met 
 them. All's well that ends well : we were very i;lad of the 
 biscuits, as it was then 5.30 p.m., and we Iiad been without 
 food since 5.30 that morning I 
 
 It was too late to go any further that da)-, so wc camped 
 
 MY HEAD-MAN DUMGU, 
 
 by the small pool, and I had a long chat in the evening with 
 the two Arabs, whom I entertained with coffee and 
 cigarettes. 
 
 We struck camp earl)' next morning, leaving exactl)' at 
 6.20 a.m., and tra\-elled first along back-waters — two of which
 
 298 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 \vc hatl to wade across — then throut^h mani^a-ove swamps, 
 until, strikint^- inland, we passed throuijh open country, 
 consisting of very flat plains with good grass and clumps of 
 trees, amongst which I noticed some oil palms {Elceis 
 gtiineensis). We passed some fresh elephant tracks close to a 
 small rain-water pool, and at 9.30 a.m. came upon Lake Krawa. 
 
 Lake Krawa lies in a valley closed in on the eastern side 
 by sandy hillocks, and on the western side by rising ground 
 covered with bush and open grass glades. This lake (or 
 perhaps more accurately swamp), of large extent in the wet 
 season, never entirely dries up. The water is hidden by a 
 thick growth of long aquatic grasses with which the swamp is 
 almost completely covered. The shallower portions dry up in 
 the hot season and are clothed with bright green grass, which 
 forms a favourite pasturage for large quantities of game. 
 
 The small river Kilifi, flowing into the sea twelve miles 
 north of Marereni, drains Lake Krawa, and is said to be 
 navigable for small dhows for nearly an hour from the sea. 
 It is very difficult to follow upwards, as its banks are covered 
 with a rank growth of high grass and Hyphaene palms, and 
 cut up by numerous channels, which are rendered a very 
 quagmire of oozy mud by the numerous hippo that frequent 
 the river. Nearer to the sea it is enclosed by mangrove 
 s^^■amps, and the decaying vegetation, deep thick mud, and 
 dead trees that border it render progress almost impossible ; 
 the soil is a black oozy mud of considerable depth, the water 
 good. The mangrove timber of Kilifi river is largel)- cut, and 
 is in much demand in Lamu ; most of the dhows built there are 
 made from the timber obtained from the Kilifi and Tana 
 rivers. 
 
 As we marched round the lake to look for a good camping- 
 ])lacc we came upon six " Topi " (a large variety of hartebeest) 
 quite close to us, and further away three more. The}' were 
 quite close, and stood watching us curiously. I was greatly 
 tempted to fire, but was afraid of startling the game ; we saw 
 a large number o{ game tracks, the varieties found here being 
 chiefl}' kudu, topi, and one or two other varieties of antelope 
 and water-buck. Zebra as well as ostriches were said to 
 come down in large numbers in the rains ; also elephants and.
 
 XV TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 299 
 
 rhinoceroses. I found a capital camping-place on a low hill 
 close to the lake, and very convenient for getting water. 
 
 In the afternoon I explored a good portion of the lake and 
 some of the adjoining country, being struck with the numbers 
 of lion tracks I came across ; in one place I saw the fresh 
 tracks of five. 
 
 The night air was very pleasant with a delightfully cool 
 breeze, but the mosquitoes were simply awful, they were in 
 legions ! Then about 9 p.m. one lion began to roar, then a 
 second, then a third, till at last it sounded as if there were a 
 good dozen close by. This lullaby went on nearly the whole 
 night. The porters were thoroughh' frightened, and kept big 
 fires burning till morning, I was not sorry to see daylight 
 appear, for we had not built a thorn fence around our camp. 
 
 Having brought only a limited supply of food we had to 
 return next da}-, but I had seen quite enough to satisfy me as 
 to the kind of game to be found here. It would be still more 
 plentiful when the N.E. rains had set in. 
 
 Before starting on our return journey next morning I 
 went fonvard with the two Arabs for about two hours to 
 observe the country ahead. We saw more topi, and on our 
 way back found fresh lion tracks coming towards us ; the 
 beasts evidently suddenly got our wind and turned off. A 
 Galla whom we met on our way equipped for a long journe}', 
 with two spears, a small axe for getting honey from the 
 hollows of trees, and two sticks for making fire, reported that 
 in the country to the north there were numerous topi, and a 
 few rhinoceroses, elephants, and ostriches, but that the giraffes 
 had suffered from the disease which had played such havoc 
 among the wild buffaloes. 
 
 Coming back it was very hot. We reached camp at ele\"en 
 o'clock, having been away four hours. I had a big drink 
 of water which was more than tepid, but refreshed me greatl)', 
 and a bath soon made me feel quite another man. The two 
 Arabs were dead beat, and went fast asleep after their meal. 
 We left for Marereni at i p.m., arriving there at 6 p.m., 
 the place being like a small town from the large number of 
 orchella-weed collectors camped all about. 
 
 Next da)' I returned to the shambas. The next month
 
 300 TR.W'ELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 passed (|iiictl>- aiul uiicNcntfull)- ; there were a (cw cases of 
 drunkeiiiiess from " tembo," and one man actual 1\- ^r^t drunk 
 on cau-de-C(jloi;ne, which he liad bought from an Inrh'an 
 trader. 
 
 I found great diflficult}- in disposing of shamba produce, on 
 account of the people having all gone up to gather orchella- 
 weed. Mone)' A\'as ver}' scarce owing to the season's bad 
 crops, and grain was very dear just then — metamah selling 
 for nine pice a kibaba (about a pint;, the usual rate being 
 three pice. 
 
 The twent}'-one Uganda porters were to ha\'e gone to work 
 after a three weeks' rest and holiday, but at their urgent 
 request I granted them another week's leave, thus making 
 it a full month's holida}-. 
 
 One hears so much said now-a-days to the detriment of 
 the Arab, that I think it onh- fair to chronicle the following — 
 
 When the Arabs, Bedwin and Said, who had gone up with 
 me to Marereni, came to visit me after my return, I gladly 
 offered them a remuneration for all their hard work up there. 
 Bedwin flatly declined to receive anything ; he said I had 
 shown his brother and himself great honour, and that was 
 enough for both. I prevailed upon them, however, to accept 
 a box of biscuits, some Eno's Fruit Salt, a table-knife and some 
 cigarettes, and delighted both immcn.sely by showing them 
 the pictures in Thomson's book, Through Masai Laud. 
 
 Ali bin Salim, the Liwali of Mombrui, came to see me 
 one day to consult me about a project he had much at heart, 
 which did him the highest credit, and is a remarkable example 
 of the broad views of an enlightened Arab gentleman. This 
 was about the opening of a school at Mombrui, where a 
 beginning could be made in teaching the English language 
 to Arab children. He proposed to begin with ten children 
 of the leading families of the jilace. The idea was cntirel}' 
 the Eiwali's own, and the whole expense was to be borne b}' 
 him. Such an undertaking could not but appeal to one's 
 warmest .s)-mpath\-. 
 
 It was now near the time of Sir Gerald Portal's \isit, so I 
 prepared to start again for Lake Krawa, and left for Marereni 
 on Xo\-. 7, Bedwin and Said coming with me as before.
 
 XV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 303 
 
 Although the N.E. monsoon rains had just begun to fall, 
 it was intensely hot marching along the dry beds of back- 
 waters, with the sun beating down upon us. I was simply 
 wet through with perspiration, and we were all glad to make 
 frequent halts under trees to rest and drink water. In the . 
 evening, wending our way along the beach, we had some 
 unexpected trouble in getting through the back-waters. The 
 first one was very deep with a strong current running, and 
 it was a long time before we could find a place shallow 
 enough to cross. Said went in several times to try, but 
 had to swim back again. At last I found a place, and went 
 in first ; the water was nearly up to my neck, with a strong 
 current. I remained in the water for over an hour helping 
 to pass the porters and their loads across, until all had safely 
 reached the other side. 
 
 Then, just as it got dark, I overtook the porters, and found 
 them halted before another back-water ; some had tried to 
 cross it, and had been nearly carried out to sea. It had been 
 a neap tide which had gone up far inland, and there was a 
 great volume of water rushing back like a mill-race. I tried 
 it in two places, but the water was too strong for me, and I 
 had to give it up. 
 
 Said wanted to abandon the attempt, but I said " Nonsense," 
 it meant camping on the beach all night without water, and 
 we must get across somehow ! I went in again, taking half 
 the porters with me, holding each other's hands, and then 
 impressed everybody to form a chain across, and so got 
 everything and everybody safely over at last. We reached 
 Marereni at 8.30 p.m., and I went straight to bed after 
 dinner, dead beat. 
 
 We reached Krawa next day, going to our old camp on 
 the hill. We saw several herds of topi, and eight Dyke's 
 antelope, which the Swahili call " Dendara." In the night 
 an elephant trumpeted quite close to the camp. 
 
 The next few days the men were busy putting up huts 
 and clearing water-holes ; I felt seedy for some time — the 
 effect of my long stay in the sea-water, where probably I 
 got a chill. I noticed on some of the bushes close by a 
 large green fruit, which I understood was called ■' Matonga "
 
 304 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA cHAP. 
 
 or " Mabungu." It becomes '}-ell(j\v when ripe, and is said 
 to be very sweet, and is eaten by the Wasania ; monkeys 
 are also very fond of it. 
 
 Although there were daily, as a rule, sharp showers of rain, 
 the heat was very great ; one day the temperature at noon 
 in my tent was 98". 
 
 I had great trouble to prevent my porters from talking 
 and laughing loudly, regardless of the fact that they were 
 frightening the game. The mosquitoes still contributed to 
 the comforts of the night, but the lions seemed to have 
 withdrawn, and the nights were quite silent except for the 
 occasional bellowing of the hippo in the Kilifi river. 
 
 At last I had every preparation completed — a total of 
 nine huts built, with water supply, etc., and the Liwali of 
 Mombrui was to send up milk, vegetables, and fruit — so I 
 went down to Marereni to await Sir Gerald Portal's arrival. 
 The following day, however, I received news from Mombasa 
 which made a complete change in the proposed arrangement. 
 Sir Gerald Portal and Mr. Berkeley had received instruc- 
 tions to proceed at once on the now well-known Mission to 
 Uganda, after the successful accomplishment of which the 
 country had to mourn the untimely loss of one of its most 
 able and successful diplomatists, Sir Gerald Portal dying of 
 typhoid fever shortly after his return to England. 
 
 However, as the Consul-General could not come, he had 
 asked General Hatch, commanding the Sultan's troops in 
 Zanzibar, and the officers of H.M.S. Philomel, commanded 
 by Capt. Campbell, to avail themselves of the arrangement 
 I had made, and very soon the vessel's lights were reported, 
 and she anchored off Ras N'Gomani on the evening of 
 December 6. 
 
 We had a very good time for the few days they were up, 
 having amongst other things some exciting hippo-shooting, 
 killing seven and wounding .several others. Some Wasania 
 came down attracted by the firing, but we could not get 
 them to swim across the river after the dead hippo. They 
 said it was an ill-omened river, and that a short time before 
 a party of ten Swahilis had attempted to cross it and not 
 one had succeeded, all having been pulled down by crocodiles.
 
 XV 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 303 
 
 An amusint^ incident of the expedition was that which 
 befell a small party from the ship, who had gone inland after 
 game. On their return they reported having seen, first one 
 lion, then fifteen, and finally an uncountable number of these 
 terrible animals. They turned out to have been baboons ! 
 
 I spent the following Christmas at Mombasa, ha\'ing gone 
 down there comfortably in an Arab dhow, and had the plea- 
 sure of being in time to bid good-bye, with wishes for a suc- 
 cessful journey to Uganda, to Mr. Berkeley, who also received 
 
 ARAB DHOWS— MOMBASA HARBOUR. 
 
 a farewell address and a piece of plate from the European 
 officers of the Compan}'. 
 
 I returned from Mombasa on January i, 1893, accompanied 
 by Dr. Edwards, of the C. M. S., who was going up to Jelori, 
 and I think it was about the most wretched New Year's Day 
 that I ever spent. We sailed in a small dhow for Melindi, 
 starting early in the morning ; a heavy swell was rolling into 
 the harbour, and we were both soon very miserable — in fact 
 we both collapsed with sea-sickness on getting out into the 
 open. There were frequent squalls of rain, and as we lay 
 prostrate on the deck we were soon wet through, utterly 
 miserable from the smells, motion, and heavy pitching caused
 
 3o5 TR.W'KLS IN EAST /^FRICA CHAP. 
 
 by tackint^ at^ainst a head-wind. Wc reached Kilifi Bay at 
 4.30 p.m., and anchored at the entrance. 
 
 We went asliore, where we found a hut, and had some 
 coffee, but were too seedy to eat. We slept till 2 a.m., when 
 we had to return on board ; we sailed again at 3 a.m., and 
 had to endure had smells and wretchedness for another da}'. 
 At first the sea was fair))- calm and the wind in our favour, 
 but, alas ! with daylight matters changed for the wor.se. The 
 sea got up with a strong head-wind, and the old tedious 
 business of tacking began again with heavy squalls of rain. 
 Needless to say, we again succumbed, and soon became and 
 felt miserable objects ! 
 
 We eventually reached Melindi at 11.30 p.m. Dr. Edwards 
 put up at the Company's house, but I preferred my breezy 
 old camping-place in the Liwali's shamba. I returned to the 
 Magarini .shambas next day, and was then laid up with my 
 first serious illness since my arrival in the country, brought 
 on doubtless b}' the recent wettings and exposure. 
 
 It is only when one is run down — seed}', helpless, and alone 
 — that one realizes all the discomforts of living be}'ond reach 
 of ci\ilized ways and comforts ! The worst part of it was that 
 the people would not let me alone, but as I lay in bed, the 
 sun terribly hot and the air oppressive, they came worrying 
 me incessantly about all sorts of petty things. It was some 
 da}'s before I ^\•as able to get up, feeling very seed}' and 
 weak, but I gradually got all right again. 
 
 About the middle of the month Weaver went for a well- 
 deser\ed change to Mombasa, and I looked after Magarini 
 in his absence, and what with the cotton-picking, making an 
 extensive coco-nut nurser}', deepening wells, and cutting 
 roads, my time was well occupied. It was quite a trouble 
 disposing of the enormous crop of mango fruit. All the trees 
 were loaded with them, and they were so plentiful and cheap 
 ever}'where that the}' hardly repaid the cost of transport to 
 the coast. 
 
 I was much interested to learn that the rain-fall during 
 January at Jelori was nearh' 3-^'^ inches, Melindi ha\ing only 
 half that amount. Undoubtedly the rain-fall along the Sabaki 
 vallc}' is hcaxicr.
 
 XV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 309 
 
 On February i, Weaver returned from Mombasa all the 
 better and stronger for his fortnight's visit. Shortly after- 
 wards I received important instructions from the Court of 
 Directors in England, directing me to proceed on a new tour 
 of inspection northwards. I accordingly handed over the 
 charge of the whole of the plantations to Weaver, who had 
 proved himself most zealous and hard-working, and had 
 already accomplished wonders at Magarini. A large cotton- 
 shed and drying-ground had been built, a cotton-ginning 
 machine had been got and set up, and a plough had at last 
 arrived — the first used in East Africa. It proved a great 
 saving in labour, and was a source of great interest to the 
 Arab cultivators.^ 
 
 1 Some notes supplied to me by Mr. Weaver may be of interest as 
 giving an idea of the agricultural operations carried on about this time 
 at the shambas. (Sec Appendix B.)
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 JOUKNKV 1 RO.M .MOMHRUI TO THE TANA RIVER Z'm 
 GONGONI, MARERENI, AND LAKE KRAWA 
 
 My Expedition — The Coast-lands north of Mombrui — Scarcity of Water 
 — Dwarf Pahns — Marereni — Changes since my last Visit — An Uncul- 
 tivated Wilderness — Water-holes — Euphorbias — Back-waters — Simba 
 Hill — Possibilities of Cultivation — Galla Path — Lake Krawa — The 
 Tana Valley — Galla Village — Golbanti. 
 
 I IJADE good-bye to Weaver, and left for Mombrui to pre- 
 pare for my expedition, the object of which was to examine 
 the Tana valley and Witu district as well as the more 
 northern coast-lands lying between the island of Lamu and 
 Port Durnford, hitherto unexplored. My party consisted of 
 seventeen jjorters, a cook, cook-boy, and one askari, all under 
 the leadership of my trusty head-man Dumgu — altogether 
 twenty-two persons. 
 
 I started on the morning of February 13, 1893, ^^r Golbanti 
 on the Tana ri\er by way of Gongoni, Marereni, and Lake 
 Krawa. Once Mombrui was left behind the absence of coco- 
 nut and mango trees was very marked. As one passes 
 Gongoni and proceeds northward towards Marereni, the 
 country adjacent to the sea consists of low flat plains with 
 brackish grey soil, intersected with shallow sandy back-waters. 
 Beyond this one comes upon an area of thick low bush, 
 among which numerous umbrella-shaped or flat-topped 
 mimosas and dwarf palms are noticeable; the soil here being 
 light, but good black loam intermixed with sandy particles. 
 This bush-land continues jjarallcl with the sea, skirting the 
 lower sea-flooded levels ; and wherever the land rises the bush 
 
 ^,10
 
 CH. XVI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 313 
 
 grows down to the shore, the surface soil in such places being 
 generally of a very sandy nature. 
 
 I examined a good portion of this country, and though 
 much of the bush is thin and scattered and the land poor, yet 
 fertile portions do exist. But the scarcity of water is the 
 principal drawback to cultivation. Shallow swamps and pools 
 of rain-water are formed here and there in the wet season, 
 and if wells were sunk in these places it is probable that 
 water might be found. Water is good and abundant at 
 Mombrui at no greater depth than about 6 to 10 feet from 
 the surface. Fundisha, about half-way between Gongoni and 
 Marereni, may be instanced as a case in point. In this place 
 shambas have been opened up for the purpose of growing 
 food for the orchella-weed gatherers who come to Marereni, 
 and here there are springs in the sand, as well as at Marereni 
 itself, within lOO yards of the sea. 
 
 I have mentioned a dwarf palm as being common in the 
 adjoining bush, particularly near N'Gomani. This is the fan 
 palju, a dwarf variety of the HypJiLsne thebaica, yielding a 
 strong fibre, and used very extensively by the natives for 
 thatching and mat-making purposes, and also for the mat- 
 bags (makandas) in which all grain produce is packed for 
 export. The palms growing in sandy soil yield the strongest 
 leaf and fibre, and the better quality is always found closer to 
 the sea. 
 
 We now arrived at Marereni, the head-quarters of the orchella- 
 weed gatherers, which is situated, as the crow flies, sixteen 
 miles from Gongoni and twenty-two from Mombrui. A 
 great change had taken place here since my first visit 
 in 1 89 1. Then there existed only a small stockade for the 
 protective garrison, and a shed sufficed for the accommodation 
 of the weed-gatherers. Now a small village of thirty huts 
 had arisen to accommodate the increasing number of people — 
 over 200 having come up this season.^ 
 
 Marereni ends what may be described as the settled northern 
 
 * The opening of the Fundisha shambas doubtlessly helped towards 
 this, as in former years food was scarce and dear, having to be carried 
 up all the way from Mombrui on men's heads — camels being useless 
 owing to the mud of the mangrove swamps and back-waters.
 
 ,14 TR.W'KLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 jxjrtion of the Mclindi district, and my march northwards to 
 the W'itu country now lay, as far as the Tana river, through 
 entirely uncultivated and unproductive land. Next day, 
 February 14, I started at 5.30 a.m., my first proposed halt 
 being Lake Krawa, fifteen miles to the north-west of Marereni. 
 
 The sandy nature of the soil only extends inland for a 
 width of about 300 yards, after which you emerge once more 
 upon the grey loamy soil of the bush. Immediately after 
 leaving the sea-shore the country is open — grass glades and 
 scattered low bush. This being the hot season, the country 
 presented a bare and dried-up appearance, as many of the 
 bush-trees, being deciduous, were now leafless. 
 
 Half-an-hour after leaving Marereni I came upon a small 
 swamp, which, though flooded in wet weather, was now dry. 
 These places, though called " swamps," show no sign whatever 
 of dried-up mud ; on the contrary, the bottom is quite level 
 and usually carpeted with a growth of fresh green grass, a 
 marked contrast to their burnt-up surroundings. 
 
 Half-an-hour beyond this, and about three miles from 
 Marereni, a second swamp or water-hole was passed, with 
 character similar to the first. Large euphorbias were now 
 noticeable in the bush, and the appearance of the country 
 improved, the bush becoming thicker and the trees growing 
 closer together — the former chiefly thorny in character, and 
 containing many mimosas with spear-pointed seeds. After 
 passing the first swamp the soil became very sandy (white 
 sand), and marching was heavy work. 
 
 At 6.50, an hour and twenty minutes after my departure 
 from Marereni, I came upon a third and larger swamp, which 
 remains filled with water till the end of December, and water 
 still lay in a hole 2 feet from the surface. The area of this 
 swamp was large, probably 1 50 by 50 yards. 
 
 Want of water being the great drawback to the settlement 
 of this portion of the country, it struck me that sinking wells 
 to ascertain whether a permanent supply was obtainable, was 
 an experiment well worth attempting. 
 
 The lay (^f the land here is very flat, with fairl>- thick bush 
 and open grass spaces. Further on, after crossing a large 
 open plain all grass (now dry), with scattered clumps of
 
 XVI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 317 
 
 fan i^alms, and a soil of black to grey loam, the path emerged 
 suddenly upon a flat, shallow back-water : this was about 4:] 
 miles from Marcreni. Half a mile beyond, the way led 
 through bush again, with a sandy soil : then across open grass- 
 land and scattered bush, the soil being grey to light brown 
 loam, and very friable. We now crossed a succession of open 
 flat back-waters, with a white sandy soil, fringed sea-wards 
 by mangroves — the land side being also sandy. Then bush 
 again, chiefly open, but thicker inland, the soil a sand)' grey 
 loam. 
 
 Some distance further on I observed two tamarind trees, 
 low and bushy, and bearing a good crop of fruit. These two 
 trees were growing on the edge of bush, which consisted 
 chiefly of mimosa scrub ; there were also a good many fan 
 palms. About nine miles from Marereni I came upon an 
 extensive mangrove swamp, some of the trees being \ery fine, 
 and the tide being up we had to wade through it. The soil 
 was rich, black, ooz}^ mud. The path soon afterwards crossed 
 a second back-water similar to the first, opening out into a wide 
 sandy flat, bounded on the land side by a sandy hillock 
 known locally as " Simba Hill" (Lion Hill), and beyond \\as 
 a flat low plain covered with bush and grass. 
 
 The back-waters I have spoken of must be the continuation 
 of the large creek marked on the map as lying north of Ras 
 Kitua ; I could find no trace of either the river Daga, said 
 to empty itself into this creek, or of the village of Jalicha, 
 supposed to be situated about three miles inland from it. 
 From Simba Hill the path inclined more westward through 
 flat bush-land, in which umbrella-shaped mimosas predomin- 
 ated ; the soil was a white to grey sandy loam. As one 
 continued, the country presented the same characteristics 
 of low bush with open grass glades, scattered mimosas, 
 and here and there a few Hypliccnc tJicbaica palms, up to 
 Lake Krawa. 
 
 The bush country which lies westward of Lake Krawa 
 extends for a considerable distance inland, and presents the 
 same characteristics as the country traversed in coming here, 
 the soil being generally either white sandy or brown loam, 
 the subsoil the same, and very friable. Clumps of aloes
 
 3i8 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 i^Sansevierin Kirkii) are noticeable here and there. The 
 average length of leaf is i to li feet, and the greatest 
 length 2 feet ; the breadth in the thickest part 6 inches. 
 It is non-serrated, marked by numerous channellings, the 
 front and l)ack of the leaf being much mottled with 
 white markings and the base much incurved. The colour is 
 dull green with distinct brown edgings. I remarked that 
 these Sansevicria evidently love shade, clumps of them being 
 always found beneath the shelter of the larger bush-trees. 
 
 Before taking leave of this part of the country, I would 
 remark that, although in no way comparable to the more 
 fertile and richer southern districts, I see no reason, provided 
 a permanent water-supply is obtainable, why a large portion 
 of these waste lands should not be brought under remunerative 
 cultivation. The villages marked in this area on older maps 
 show that Galla and other settlements must have once 
 existed, and frequent Masai raids may account for their total 
 disappearance. 
 
 The thermometer readings at Krawa on February 14, at 
 2, 4, and 6 p.m., were 88", 86", and 82" in the shade. 
 
 My head-man informed me that there existed a path used 
 by the Gallas, from Arbagundi on the Sabaki to Golbanti, 
 which took three days, but it w.as only used in wet weather, as 
 in the dry season there is no water ; this path is a continuation 
 of the caravan route leading from the interior to M'Lengo- 
 Ba}'a, and thence branching off to both Jelori and Takaungu. 
 Evidently it must have been a road well known and frequently 
 used by slave-raiders in former days. The Wa-Galla use 
 it a good deal, travelling up and down at all seasons, going 
 to Makongeni for tobacco, etc. A Galla will accomplish this 
 distance in two days ; they have wonderful powers of endur- 
 ance, and will travel from Golbanti to Mombrui in one day. 
 
 At Lake Krawa we camped at the old place on the knoll. 
 The mosquitoes were exceptionally bad that night, and could 
 be heard humming in myriads all round. I got badly bitten 
 even under a mosquito-curtain, but my poor porters, accus- 
 tomed to them as they were, had no sleep all night, and sat 
 around and almost in the smoke of their fires. 
 
 1 started for Golbanti at 5 a.m., Februar)- 15, the path
 
 XVI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 321 
 
 skirtini^ Lake Krawa. Species of aloes grew very numerousl)' 
 about here ; besides the Sansevicria Kirkii, I also noticed 
 a species with short, sharp-pointed leaves and very thick 
 stems averaging 4 to 5 feet, and in some cases 6 feet. 
 In Swahili this aloe is known as " Kikumbe," in Wanika as 
 " Madango," and in the Galla languages as " Ajiji." The leaves 
 are used for their fibre. 
 
 After passing some thorny bush with small scattered open 
 spaces, the soil white sand with a subsoil of brown sandy 
 loam, we continued our way over an open grass plain, passing 
 at short intervals two small water-holes, one of which still 
 contained a little muddy water. There was no vegetation, 
 except grass, on this plain, the soil of which was poor. Seven 
 miles from my last camp I crossed a branch or arm of Lake 
 Krawa, which I had been skirting all along on my right, 
 now and again catching glimpses of its bright green bed. 
 This arm runs up in a X.W. direction, and is about 100 yards 
 in width, covered everywhere with a thick growth of aquatic 
 grasses, though here and there the brown water lay in pools. 
 The soil is black rich cla}-. 
 
 For the next hour wc travelled over open plains with short 
 good grass (now all dried up), and scattered, low, round clumps 
 of furzy bush with a small-leaved bright green foliage ; and 
 now and then in hollows we came upon dried-up water-pools. 
 
 This grass plain, apparently very extensive, is on a de- 
 cidedly higher level than Lake Krawa, to which it gradually 
 shelves down. With the exception of stunted trees and 
 scattered low bush, it is entirely covered with short grass, and 
 must be a great haunt for game in the wet season. On my 
 way I observed several herds of zebra and antelope. 
 
 The surface soil appeared neither fertile nor rich. The plain 
 is undulating, the undulations running north and south. In 
 the various valleys or hollows so formed, the soil is usually 
 a white sandy loam, with more or less bush and frequent dried- 
 up water- pools. 
 
 At 10 a.m I came upon an exceptionally deep hollow run- 
 ning from east to west, which evidently drains this portion of 
 the plain, the bottom being a dry swamp about 50 yards 
 broad and covered with green grass ; the soil of stiff black 
 
 Y
 
 322 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CH. xvi 
 
 loam. '\'hv plain rises abruptly on the opposite side, and 
 presents the same characteristics as before — to which, how- 
 ever, arc now added numerous euphorbias or candelabra trees. 
 This extends in every direction without change to the horizon. 
 The soil at first was a stiff grey clayey loam, but further on 
 became much more friable, and in passing holes made by the 
 rain-water, the subsoil appeared fairly good. 
 
 About three miles before reaching the Tana valley, the 
 plain gradually slopes down towards it, as it does also to the 
 eastward. On the right I noticed bright green grass growing 
 on land evidently flooded in the wet season ; crossing an end 
 of this the path continued over the plain as before. Then 
 through high aquatic grass, the bed of a shallow lake, now dry, 
 across which could be seen a fringe of Hypha^ne or dum palms, 
 and high trees, evidently marking the course of the Tana 
 river. This low-lying swampy ground opens and appears to 
 stretch away to the eastward, with a spot of higher land on 
 which was another fringe of high timber and dum palms. 
 
 The path, which had been running due north, here made a 
 sharp bend to the east, skirting the swamp on the right hand, 
 with low bush on the left. Following in this direction for 
 half-an-hour, I came upon a Galla village, with cultivated 
 patches of maize, amongst the high aquatic grass ; here the 
 path struck off to the northward, continuing through low-l)-ing 
 swampy ground with the same high aquatic grass (about 3 to 
 4 feet high), and passing by occasional patches of maize culti- 
 vation. The low-l}-ing land I had just passed over is all 
 flooded during the rainy season, and during that period the 
 only communication with Golbanti from Mombrui and south- 
 ward is by canoe. 
 
 Eventually I emerged, somewhat suddenly, upon the Tana 
 river, which here has only grassy banks about 6 feet high, 
 and no fringe of timber. We camped for the night on the 
 outskirts of Golbanti village. It had taken us eight and a half 
 hours from Krawa, following the usual windings of an African 
 ])ath, though the total distance, as the crow flies, is not more 
 than twenty-one miles, while that from Mombrui to Golbanti 
 is abouL fort)'-eight miles.
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 THE TANA RIVER AND COUNTRY 
 
 Golbanti Mission Station— The Wa-Pokomo — Lakes of the Tana 
 Valley— -Golbanti and surrounding Country — LakeAshakababo — Native 
 Methodof extracting Aloe Fibre — Luxuriant Maize — Flat Country — -The 
 Tana — N'Gao — German Mission — Winding Nature of the River^The 
 Country to the South-west — Lake Burabin^Mr. Bird-Thompson on the 
 Tana and its Tribes. 
 
 Golbanti (also called Burabin) is a small Galla settlement 
 situated on the Tana river about two and a half miles south of 
 Lake Ashakababo, and twenty miles to the south-west of W'itu, 
 and consists of a few conical grass huts. It is also the head- 
 quarters of the Free Methodist Missionary Society, but the two 
 missionaries stationed here were now absent. They have a 
 good stone house, double-storied and iron-roofed, a chapel, 
 the windows of which are strongly barred, and the place 
 surrounded by a wooden palisade. This state of defence was 
 due to the fact that the Masai some few years back had raided 
 as far down as this place, and killed the resident missionary 
 and his wife.^ 
 
 So far I saw but little cultivation, only a few scattered 
 patches of maize amongst the aquatic grass in the dry portion 
 of the lowlands and swamps surrounding the village. The 
 Gallas do not cultivate largely here, but for their subsistence 
 depend more upon their herds of goats ; they have no cattle. 
 The chief cultivators appear to be the W'a-Pokomo, a people 
 settled along the banks of the river, of which they are the 
 regular boatmen. Their canoes or " mows," as the\- arc called 
 
 ' In 1895 the station was attacked by the Somalis from the north side of 
 the Tana.
 
 324 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 locally, which they handle with threat skill, arc the ordinary 
 means of communication from bank to bank, and between the 
 different places situated up and d(nvn the Tana river. The 
 Wa-Pokomo are expert fishermen, and hunt the crocodiles 
 with long spears. They have a curious fashion of anointing 
 themselves with a pigment made of red clay, the women 
 especially being noticeable in this respect. 
 
 Golbanti may be described as occupying a tongue or point 
 of dry land jutting out to the eastward towards the Tana, 
 and surrounded by low-lying sv\'amps, which are dry in the 
 hot weather but all flooded and under water during the rains. 
 In fact, the lower sw^amp to the south-west, which I skirted on 
 my way here, is, I understood, connected in the wet season 
 with Lake Krawa, which therefore must then form part of 
 one sheet of water extending up to the Tana itself, a distance 
 of twenty miles. 
 
 The first swamp or lake near Golbanti is called in Galla 
 "Ziwah Holechiss"(?.^. " tremble " from cold), and is connected 
 in the wet season with the Tana by a natural channel ; it is 
 connected also during the rains with Lake Ashakababo, both 
 then forming one sheet of water. Then on the south-west 
 side we have the lake (dry w^hcn I was there) extending 
 E.N.E. to the point where it joins the Tana ; this lower lake 
 is called Ziwah Burabin (Lake Burabin or Borabin). Ziwah 
 Ilolechiss joins Lake Burabin, flowing round to the west 
 over the marshy ground traversed by me in coming here, so 
 that for a space of from one to two and a half months 
 Golbanti is entirely surrounded by water. The portion to the 
 westward is very seldom deeper than a man's middle, and can 
 generally be crossed without canoes. There is also a higher 
 spit of land, by which passage can be made between Ziwah 
 Ilolechiss and Ziwah Ashakababo. The limit of the flooded 
 jjortion, full}' a mile or more wide in places, is well defined by 
 a fringe of timber dividing it from the higher table-land which 
 extends be)^ond. Ziwah Burabin extends away to the south- 
 east, where it joins another lake called Ziwah M'Toto ; this 
 again is connected with another lake called Gururu, the 
 whole forming, as I have stated, practically one sheet of water 
 from the Tana down to the Kilifi river in the wet season.
 
 XVII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 325 
 
 From my camp in Golbanti village, the river Tana lay N.E. 
 and S.E., and Ziwah Holechiss N.N.E., extending round to 
 the N.W. and W. 
 
 Immediately round Golbanti, more especially to the west- 
 ward, the land is very flat, with scattered bush and low dwarf 
 trees ; the soil chocolate loam, and the subsoil red marl. 
 A narrow fringe of timber borders the river-banks above 
 Golbanti ; but I was struck with the absence of trees round 
 this place, and it is matter for surmise whether the fringe of 
 timber just mentioned, and that defining the limit of flooded 
 land, may not be the remains of a forest, cut down by either 
 the Wa-Galla or Wa-Pokomo. Certainly the solitary trees 
 scattered here and there lend confirmation to this conjecture. 
 
 The thermometer at Golbanti at 6 a.m. stood at 74 in the 
 shade. 
 
 With a view to seeing the country to the north and north- 
 west of Golbanti, I started in a north-westerly direction, 
 passing through a small Pokomo clearing, the soil of which 
 was a friable chocolate. I skirted Ziwah Holechiss, still partly 
 filled with water, and bordered with a wide stretch of bright 
 green aquatic grass, the Tana flowing on the north and 
 north-east side, while the lake stretched for about a quarter of a 
 mile to the westward. It was edged by the narrow fringe of 
 timber, the probable limit of the wet-season floods, amongst 
 which numerous HypJueuc thcbaica or dum palms were very 
 noticeable ; these, however, did not appear so tall as those 
 growing along the Sabaki river. 
 
 I observed in the undergrowth a variety of aloe, of which I 
 noted the following particulars. The flowers, growing on long 
 stalks, 2 to 2i feet above the plant, are scarlet, with yellow 
 stamens tipped with brown, which extend a cjuarter to half 
 an inch beyond the calyx, and about one-half to three- 
 quarters of an inch in length. The flowers hang in clusters, 
 bell-shaped, and present somewhat the appearance of a fuchsia. 
 On one cluster I counted fifty-four flowers. The extreme tip of 
 the opening bud is a dark green. The leaves grow on a some- 
 what long, thick stalk, are spear-shaped or lanceolate, deeply 
 grooved, especially where the leaf closes up to .a sharp point 
 with serrated edge (thirty-three spikes, and point hooked
 
 326 TRAVELS IN' EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 outuards;. 'Ihc inside of the leaf is a deep red, more 
 accentuated in the mature leaf; the lower side is a light 
 green. The leaf is 21 feet long by 4I inches broad. 
 
 The above are very numerous in the bush around Golbanti, 
 and are found in thick clumps; the Sanscvieria Kirkii'x^ also 
 to be found here. The soil is chocolate, friable and good. 
 
 Proceeding along the higher spit of level land running 
 between Ziwahs Holechiss and Ashakababo, and bordered by 
 the fringe of timber north of Golbanti, which I mentioned 
 above, I emerged beyond upon the level grass plain which I 
 had travelled over ow the way from Krawa, and which 
 stretches far away to the westward — the soil consisting of a 
 grey to whitish somewhat stiff clayey loam. On my right, or 
 the eastern side, I skirted Lake Holechiss, which here ran 
 parallel to the open grass plain by a narrow river-like inlet 
 about 30 to 40 feet wide ; aquatic grass growing plentifully 
 on either side in the water, but the centre being clear and 
 deep. Between two and a half and three miles from Golbanti 
 I came upon Lake Ashakababo, a beautiful sheet of water 
 stretching away to the north-west, and bordered on one side 
 by the Tana, which now lay to the north-east. This extensive 
 lake (fully three to four miles long) is the principal one of the 
 chain which here adjoin, and draw their supply from the Tana. 
 The lake is very winding, and narrow flat spits of land project 
 here and there, forming miniature bays and coves. The 
 water is remarkably clear and good, and is generally fringed 
 by a thick border of aquatic grass. A belt of tall trees sur- 
 rounds the lake, amongst which the dum palm, and a large tree 
 (called in Swahili " munga," pi. " minga") with small acacia- 
 like leaves, predominate. The soil immediately surrounding 
 the lake is a black, stiff clayey loam, becoming light and 
 sandy at the water's edge. A large part of the lake was now 
 dry, and covered with a thick growth of reeds, 3 to 4 feet 
 high, with feathery heads. 
 
 I cros.sed an arm of the lake to the northern bank in a 
 native canoe, and landing at a small Pokomo village close to 
 the shore, 1 noticed a solitary borassus palm growing near the 
 water's edge, and in the background a large number of dum 
 palms, so nuirierous as to form quite a grove. Thence I pro-
 
 Kvil TRAVKLS IN KAST AFRICA 327 
 
 ceeded in a N.N.E. direction, keeping the lake on my right 
 and passing through knv bush, in which I remarked a great 
 number of " n'konge " aloes {S. gniiiccnsis), the species which 
 grow so thickly along the Sabaki valley. It is known in Galla 
 as " Omodo." Some Wasania showed me their method of 
 extracting the fibre. They first press the lower stem of the 
 leaf upon the ground to open it, and then pull off the outer 
 layers, which, they say, make the strongest rope ; these they 
 squeeze through two sticks stuck in the ground close together 
 and held firmly with the hand, thereby removing the pith and 
 loosening the fibre. The inmost layers of all are drawn out 
 into thin strips, and used for fastenings for roofs, etc. The 
 other species of thick-stemmed aloe is also very plentiful. 
 
 The soil in the bush was first black sandy loam, and further 
 on grey sandy and very friable. Aloes appear to thrive and 
 grow most plentifully in white to grey sandy loam. 
 
 Continuing through the fringe of timber (chiefly dum palms) 
 skirting the lake, and now and then passing through a Galla 
 village, I examined the soil further on in the dry lake-bed, 
 and found it to consist of black, rich, stiff chocolate loam. 
 Eventually striking off to the right, across the dry lake-bed in 
 order to get to the Tana river beyond, and proceeding towards 
 it in a north-easterly direction, I emerged upon land that at 
 one time must have been forest, and was now covered with 
 scattered bush. On my way across the lake-bsd I passed 
 some exceedingly fine maize, some of it must have bsen fully 
 9 feet high ; I understood that the Wa-Pokomo obtained 
 three crops of maize in the year. Here I struck the river- 
 bank, having described a large semicircle since leaving Gol- 
 banti, and skirted round Lake Ashakababo, which I crossed 
 at its extreme south-western end. 
 
 The Tana here flows through very flat country, the 
 northern bank, I believe, presenting the same characteristics 
 as this, but being hidden by high grass. The banks averaged 
 5 to 6 feet in height. 
 
 I obtained a canoe and descended the riv^cr to N'Gao, about 
 twenty-five minutes distant by water. N'Gao is a large 
 Pokomo village ; here a German Mission had been established 
 for some years. It had originally settled on the north bank,
 
 VS TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 but had been obliL,^ccl by the floods to move to this side. The 
 cultivation round here consisted of millet, maize, rice, bananas, 
 plantains, beans, etc., but, owing to the frequent raids made 
 by the Witu people, it was not extensive. 
 
 At the time of my visit three European missionaries (one 
 married) were residing here, one of them having been over 
 four years in the place ; their general appearance was healthy 
 and robust, and spoke well for the salubrity of the locality. 
 Their present houses were only temporary ones, consisting of a 
 dwelling-house and a school ; the windows were protected by 
 wire gauze on account of the swarms of mosquitoes that 
 infest the river-banks. The mission is entirely for the Wa- 
 Pokomo, and the missionaries spoke most favourably of the 
 gentle manners of this tribe. There were seven scholars in 
 the school when I visited it ; who were occupied in transcribing 
 English letters into copy-books. They were to be taught to read 
 and write. At first very great difficulty was encountered in 
 getting boys to come, as the report had got abroad that they 
 were to be sent to Europe as slaves. Many years of oppres- 
 sion by the Wa-Galla and Swahilis have rendered these 
 people very suspicious and timid. 
 
 The missionaries courteously took me to a small hill about 
 lOO feet high and about a quarter of a mile from N'Gao, where 
 they proposed building their permanent residence. They had 
 cut a fine road to the place, 12 feet wide, which they intended 
 eventually to continue to Lake Ashakababo, about one and a 
 half miles to the south-west of N'Gao. This road was cut 
 through the first bit of forest that I had yet seen on this side 
 of the Tana river; the soil was every where excellent — a choco- 
 late friable sandy loam. On the top of the small hill they 
 had cut a hole 9 feet deep in the unsuccessful endeavour to 
 find clay for making bricks ; the whole depth of the 9 feet con- 
 sisted entirely of a rich friable red, stone-less loam, a fact 
 which speaks wonders for the depth and richness of the soil. 
 
 Divided from this hill by a narrow wooded valley is a lower 
 hill. On the former a large tree had been converted into an 
 observatory, from which an excellent view could be obtained 
 of the surrounding low country, and on a clear day even of the 
 WiUi hills, which arc over twenty miles away. The following
 
 XVII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 329 
 
 lakes lying close to the Tana river could be clearly dis- 
 cerned — 
 
 Lake Ashakabubo ; the extreme southern point of it bear- 
 ing S.W. from here. 
 
 Lake Kongola, W.S.W. This communicates with Ashaka- 
 babo by a narrow de^^p channel situated just above the small 
 village of Belozo or Muho, between X'Gao and Golbanti. 
 
 Lake Musania, N. by W., on the north bank, and 
 
 Lake Semeti, X.N.E., also on the north bank, these two 
 being entirely separate. 
 
 I returned to Golbanti by river in a native canoe or " mow." 
 The soil on the river-banks at N'Gao consists chiefly of a grey 
 loamy clay mixed with sand ; the subsoil cla\', often most 
 consistent and stiff. The river winds greatly ; the water has a 
 yellow tinge from the particles of soil in solution which it carries 
 clown, and this discolouration is increased after rains. Numer- 
 ous Pokomo settlements were seen along the river-banks, their 
 cultivation consisting of bananas, plantains, maize, and rice. 
 At intervals there were small fringes of timber along the river; 
 in other places the banks were covered wath coarse aquatic 
 grass, and here and there narrow channels or creeks — it was 
 hard to sa}- which as I passed rapidly by in my canoe. The 
 readings of the thermometer on this day and the i8th were 
 as follows — 
 
 In the Shade. 
 
 February 17. February 18. 
 
 6 a.m. 74' 6 a.m. 68'' 
 
 10 a.m. 84' 10 a.m. 88' 
 
 2 p.m. 85 2 p.m. 89' 
 
 6 p.m. 79 6 p.m. 79' 
 
 On February i8th I left camp at 7.30 a.m., proceeding 
 down the Tana to visit the country lying to the south-west of 
 Golbanti. The banks of the river are covered with high 
 aquatic grass, and there was a small channel or outlet from 
 the river on the northern bank, nearly opposite Golbanti. 
 The soil of the bank varies, being generally clay, in some 
 places intermixed with grey loam ; the subsoil mostly black 
 stiff clay, as a rule tinged with red.
 
 3^0 TKAVKLS in east AFRICA CHap 
 
 I'"iirlhci- (l(j\\ii ihc banks were 1(j\v aiul i^rassy, with an 
 occasional frini^c of low bush, the soil consistini^ of clay in 
 layers i)V strata, evidentl\' built up by the deposits of the 
 stream in the annual flood.-; ; the ujjper layers being thickly 
 intermixed w ith sand, forming a grey sandy to clayey soil. 
 The average height of the banks was from 4 to 6 feet. On 
 either side the land was very flat, and near the river was 
 covered with high aquatic grass, interspersed with small 
 Pokomo clearings situated close to the banks, and consisting 
 of maize, rice, bananas, and plantains. From its very flat 
 appearance the country on the north side must also be flooded 
 during the rains to a considerable extent. 
 
 Passing occasional Pokomo huts and one small village on 
 the south side, I proceeded down the river for five miles, 
 landing on the south bank at the Pokomo village of Bura, 
 which had a background of tall trees intermixed with dum 
 palms. Proceeding along the river-side, and skirting Ziwah 
 Surabin — now a low- lying marsh covered with high aquatic 
 grass, and stretching away to the south-west — -I struck across 
 the marsh, passing occasional patches of maize, some of them 
 very luxuriant, and further on a patch of rice. Beyond this 
 I had to wade through water about 4 feet deep, emerging on 
 a stretch of higher land where a good many aloes and 
 varieties of Scviscvkria were growing. Still skirting Lake Bur- 
 abin in a south-westerly direction, towards which it opens out 
 — the soil of the marsh being a black to grey loam — I event- 
 ually emerged on flat grass land, along which I proceeded 
 till I struck the telegraph-line. This plain was covered with 
 good short grass, and at one period the Wa-Galla used to feed 
 their cattle here ; but now they appear to possess none, a fact 
 due in the first place to Masai raids, and secondly to the 
 cattle disease, about which I shall have more to say when I 
 come to my visit to Witu. Hence I struck off due north 
 and returned to camp at Golbanti, Whilst staying with Mr. 
 Bird-Thompson at Witu, he gave me much information about 
 the Tana tribes and the portions of the river that I had not 
 visited ; he also most kindl)' placed his report at my disposal, 
 from which the following notes are taken. 
 
 Mr. ]iird-Thomi)son accompanied the expedition of 1891,
 
 Xvii TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 33 1 
 
 under Captain Dundas, R.N., in the stern-wheel steamer 
 Ketiia, intended to test the navigabiHty of the Tana. 
 
 The water-way was found navigable as far as Kurok(jro, 
 some 250 miles up, but much impeded by snags or sunken 
 tree-trunks, and so sinuous in its course that only vessels of 
 moderate length could round the numerous bends. 1 he 
 current too, being rapid, flowing at the rate of si.x miles an hour, 
 would necessitate engines of adequate power to make head 
 against it; but with these conditions fulfilled, the Tana 
 is a navigable highway of the greatest value as a factor in the 
 development of the extensive tracts which it drains. The 
 mouth of the Tana, like that of the Juba, is obstructed by an 
 almost impracticable bar. 
 
 NOTES FROM MR. BIRD-THOMPSON'S REPORT. 
 
 "We left Mtori (the Tana mouth) at 8.30a.m. on April 17, 
 1891, and passed through a beautifully-wooded country, 
 principally mangroves. In this district most of the timber 
 required for dhow-building at Lamu is cut. 
 
 "After about three hours' run we came to a small askari 
 station, Mto Tana, on the left bank. It is kept up to provide 
 the Tana mouth with ferrymen, as this is the main road from 
 Lamu to Melindi and Mombasa. About half-an-hour after 
 leaving this station, there is on the right bank, and about an 
 hour's distance from the river, a salt lake from which quantities 
 of salt are obtained by the Chara, Kau, and W'itu men, and 
 used for trading purposes in Pokomo. 
 
 " As we neared Chara the country became more and more 
 open, ending in flat, open, swampy ground covered with 
 coarse grass about 6 or 7 feet high. At night we anchored a 
 little south of Chara, and the next day, about 10 a.m., we 
 anchored at the boma on the Belazoni Canal, which connects 
 the Tana and Ozi rivers. This canal was made by the W'a- 
 Pokomo, by the orders of the Sultan of Witu, and formerly 
 duty was lc\ied by him on everything passing down the 
 river. 
 
 " A good deal of rice cultivation is carried on at Chara. 
 There are also large coco-nut and plantain shambas, with a
 
 332 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chai' 
 
 few areca-nut palms. Sweet potatoes and beans are also 
 grown, but not in large quantities, and also a few pineapples 
 and tomatoes. The Chara people are Pokomo, who have 
 adopted Islamism. 
 
 " The whole district is admirably adapted for growing rice, 
 and the land can be easily irrigated and cleared. 
 
 "It is the same here as higher up, the people say it is not 
 worth their while to cultivate largely owing to the raiding 
 carried on by the Witu people, and which they fear will still 
 continue, and to the ' trading ' of the Kau Swahili, who 
 simply take as much as they require and then present the 
 despoiled owners with one or two hoes, sometimes not even that. 
 
 "On the 13th we left Belazoni, and passing Chara we came 
 to Chathuro on the right bank, the first Pokomo village on 
 the Tana; and on the 14th reached Golbanti, the Pokomo 
 Mission Station of the Free Methodists ; and on the evening 
 of the same day anchored at Ngao, a large Pokomo village on 
 the left bank, where a German Mission Station has been 
 established for some years. 
 
 "The inhabitants of Ngao cultivate rice, millet, Indian corn, 
 beans, and plantains, but, as at Chara, little more than is 
 actually required for their own wants. Ngao is only six 
 hours from Witu, and has already been heavily raided by 
 Witu men; it is also only two days' journey off the Kau Swahilis, 
 who call all the Wa-Pokomo as far as Ndera their slaves, and 
 take whatever they want from them. 
 
 " When a Swahili wants rice, he goes to a Pokomo village, 
 and, sitting down by a hut, gun in hand, tells a Pokomo to 
 cut him as much rice as he requires, and afterwards makes 
 him row him back to his house. 
 
 " The Pokomos of the Lower Tana have no idea of making 
 any resistance, having been accustomed to submit passively 
 for generations, although at the same time complaining bitterly 
 and asking for protection. If properly protected, rice would 
 be largely grown by them. 
 
 " On the 23rd we reached Merifano. Very little cultivation 
 is done here, as the river's banks are high and dry, and 
 unsuitable for rice crops ; the country all round is fine open 
 grass land, admirably adapted for cattle grazing.
 
 XVII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 333 
 
 " On the 27th \vc reached Ni^atana, a large Pokomo village 
 on the left bank. Great quantities of plantains and sugar- 
 cane are grown here, a little rice, and plenty of millet, Indian 
 corn, sweet potatoes, beans, and papaws. On the 28th we 
 reached Kulesa — where there was till recently a Swedish 
 Mission Station, which was burnt during the late Witu 
 disturbances — another great rice and plantain district. The 
 village is on the left bank, but nearly all the plantations are 
 on the right one. 
 
 " On the 29th we reached Mwina, the last of the Pokomo 
 villages over which the Swahilis claim authority. Between 
 Mitole and Mwina the banks of the river are lined nearly 
 the whole way with plantains and sugar-cane plantations. 
 Quantities of rice arc grown, and at the present time the 
 Pokomos are busily engaged in clearing more ground, and in 
 banking up the river in places where too much water would 
 be likely to damage the crops. Mwina itself is a great 
 plantain district, but the Witu people have recently burned 
 a good many of the shambas. With this village end what 
 are called the South Tana Pokomos, and any one wanting to 
 go by canoe higher up the river must engage men here. The 
 men of Ndera, the next village, are far different from their 
 South Tana brethren ; the Swahilis do not dare to raid on 
 them ; they have several times successfully resisted attacks 
 from the Somalis. The South Tana Pokomos were until 
 quite recently in a state of absolute slavery to the Swahilis 
 and Gallas, and even now there is much room for improve- 
 ment in their condition. Although as a rule a fine powerful 
 race of men, they have no idea of resistance, and, having been 
 accustomed to this slavery for generations, they look on it 
 as ' fate.' 
 
 " The Pokomos are very affectionate in their private rela- 
 tions. A Pokomo has no concubines, and only one wife, from 
 whom he cannot be separated until her death. 
 
 " If the man dies first, the wife is kept by his brother until 
 she chooses to re-marr}'. They are a gentle, kindly people, 
 always ready to do anything if properly treated, very truthful 
 and honest if left to themselves, but under the fear of pain 
 or death just the opposite.
 
 334 
 
 TRAVELS IN KAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 " Their villaj^cs arc all built on the river-banks, the huts 
 beehive in shape, and made of i(rass on a framework of laths, 
 with raised doors, as the villas^es are nearly all flcxjded when 
 the river rises. The Pokomos are a branch of the Wanika, 
 and much like them in appearance. They wear beads and 
 brass-wire ornaments, and a small cloth round their loins, and 
 stain themselves with oil and red brick-dust. They are of a 
 light brown colour, and have pleasant, good-natured faces. 
 Each district is governed by a chief, assisted by a council of the 
 oldest men of the tribe. They are all excellent canoe-men 
 and swimmers, and spend a good deal of their time hunting 
 hippo and crocodiles — in fact, no Pokomo is considered to 
 have proved himself a man until he has killed at least one of 
 them. They hunt with spears having handles from 8 to lO 
 feet long. In cultivating, rough hoes and knives are used. 
 The Wa-Pokomo number about 1 0,000 souls, living in 200 
 villages along the river-bank. 
 
 ''May I. — We reached Ndera (about four marches from 
 Witu), one of the largest Pokomo villages on the Tana. The 
 people are darker-coloured than those further south, and seem 
 to have intermarried with other tribes, probably with the 
 ' runaway ' settlement, which is quite near. They are armed 
 with bows and arrows. The country around is much more 
 wooded than lower down the river, and is a great canoe- 
 manufacturing district. In these woods indiarubber is 
 plentiful, and wild coffee fairly so, but the inhabitants know 
 nothing about the cultivation of either, and do not even know 
 the wild coffee by sight. Rice and plantains are cultivated in 
 large quantities and ivory too is to be had. PVom Ndera to 
 Nguano (big crocodiles), the next large village, rice, millet, 
 and Indian corn arc largely cultivated. The villages in this 
 district are all built in the midst of impenetrable jungle, the 
 paths on cither side ending at the river about a quarter of a 
 mile or so distant, consequently if strangers want to go to 
 the \-illages they have to hail a canoe, and at times one's 
 patience is severel}- tried. The villages are built in these 
 Tnaccessible ])laces on account of the Somalis, who constantly 
 raid the district in order to get slaves. As it is, the villages 
 themseh'cs are comparative!)' safe. The modus opcriDidi of
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 335 
 
 the Somali's is accordint^l)' adajitcd to the circumstances. 
 Instead of venturing to attack a village, the raiding band 
 (five or six men generally) secrete themselves in a wood near 
 a shamba, and one of them climbs a tree to reconnoitre. 
 Having ascertained the position of the shambas, the number 
 of Pokomos at work, the hour they commence, and the paths 
 by which they come, the party lie hidden close to the path 
 and wait until the Pokomo they have decided on capturing 
 has passed, laid aside his spear, and commenced work. They 
 then crawl up and get between the man and his spear, and then 
 suddenly rush upon him with wild shouts and cries. The affair 
 is soon over ; being no match for a Somali in speed, the victim 
 is either quickly overtaken, made prisoner, and carried off as a 
 slave, or, if he makes resistance, killed at once. At this very 
 town (Nguano) the Pokomos had made 'medicine' to keep 
 off the Somalis, consisting of a little open shed about i foot 
 high and 2 feet square, with an ordinary black bottle 
 buried up to the neck in the centre. This, they said, was sure 
 to keep the Somalis away. 
 
 " Between Nguano and Kinakombe plantains are cultivated 
 in enormous quantities, also sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, 
 cassava, two sorts of beans, pumpkins, water-melons, tobacco, 
 rice, and Indian corn. The Pokomos are all great snuff- 
 takers, but do not smoke. This, too, is the beginning of the 
 great honey district. Pokomos do not care about eating 
 honey, but make an intoxicating drink from it called tenibo 
 la asali, which they are very fond of, and drink in large 
 quantities. 
 
 " The country at the back of the Kinakombe shambas is 
 mostly open grass land and admirably adapted for cattle 
 grazing, but neither Gallas nor Pokomos dare keep them on 
 account of the raids made by the Somalis and Masai. 
 Nearer the river-banks a great deal of mimosa and cactus 
 scrub is met with. 
 
 "Near Kinakombe we came across a village of the Wa-Boni, 
 a wandering tribe who get their living b}- hunting, and who 
 acknowledge the Gallas as their masters. '1 hey are light, wir}-- 
 looking people, with rather woolly hair, and of a darkish copper 
 colour, and b)- no means bad-looking, having little or none of
 
 336 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the nc£Tro type of feature'about them. They are undoubtedly of 
 (ialla()ri^■in,a^d speak the same language, and although inter- 
 marrying with other tribes, have not yet lost all the distinctive 
 characteristics of the true Galla. They live in very small 
 roughl}'-made, grass bee-hive-shaped huts, and only remain in 
 a place as long as there is game : as the game move they 
 move. Bows and poisoned arrows are their weapons. The 
 poison is very deadly, and a buffalo will fall dead within a few 
 hundred yards of where it has been wounded. Each arrow- 
 head has the owner's special mark upon it, and it is so made 
 that when shot into an animal, the head remains buried in the 
 flesh while the shaft drops to the ground. The reason arrow- 
 heads are marked is, that large game such as elephants, etc., do 
 not die at once, but wander perhaps for days — when dead the 
 arrow-mark is recognized, and. the game is handed over to its 
 true owner. 
 
 " The Wa-Boni are the great elephant hunters of the Tana 
 district, and almost all the ivory brought from there has been 
 originally obtained b}' them. 
 
 " From Kinakombe up to Kidoni — the last village on the 
 Tana where the pure Pokomo is found — rice is abundantly 
 cultivated round all the villages, whilst the uncultivated spots 
 are covered with dense jungle ; behind which, and further 
 away from the river, is a vast extent of open country, in some 
 places thickly and in others thinly covered with mimosa scrub. 
 
 "After leaving Kidoni we passed for two and a half days 
 through the Mamole district, a country inhabited by the 
 Wasania. No signs of cultivation were to be seen, but 
 occasionally small huts evidently just deserted. These people 
 are just the same in habits and appearance as the Wa-Boni, 
 and are probably one and the same race. If one of them 
 wants to get married, he has to get leave from the chief Galla 
 of his district, and also to give him a present of one tusk of 
 ivory. 
 
 "•June 22. — We reached the Korokoro district. The country 
 being much more open in appearance, on the 23rd several 
 small plantain shambas were passed, while the trees were 
 much larger and finer than any we had hitherto seen. 
 
 " As we neared Oda-boro-rova. the scener)- was very loveh'.
 
 NLVil TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 337 
 
 On the 25th we came to the first Galla village we have seen 
 in this district. No rice is grown in the Korokoro district, 
 but a fair quantity of Indian corn and beans, some plantains 
 and sugar-cane. From Korokoro to Hameye, the last in- 
 habited village on the Tana, no cultivation is carried on on 
 the south bank, partly from fear of the Wa-Kamba, who are 
 constantly raiding the people, and partly on account of the 
 dense jungle. 
 
 " The people who inhabit the river-banks in this district 
 call themselves Walorokoro. They are darker in appearance 
 than the pure Pokomo, and are probably a mixed race of 
 Pokomos and Wa-Boni, as they have some of the characteristics 
 of both, viz. the Pokomo's love of the river and timid 
 nature, and the Wa-Boni's love of hunting and skill in using 
 the bow and arrow. 
 
 " The river between Korokoro and Hameye is dotted with 
 numerous islands, and it is on these that the inhabitants grow 
 the principal part of their Indian corn and plantains, but in 
 no large quantities. 
 
 " It is here that one sees the first signs of stone in the Tana 
 district, viz. fine gravel near Korokoro, and round Hameye 
 big slabs of stone. The soil from the coast up is sandy in 
 the ' bars,' and black rich-looking earth near the river-banks, 
 where the chief cultivation is carried on. From Bilati, where 
 we built our boma, to Hameye, the country is completely 
 burnt up by the heat ; not a speck of green grass is visible, and 
 even the thorn scrub has a withered, dead look. The natives 
 here exchange provisions for beads, cloth, and ngco (a kind of 
 red brick-dust). If a Galla woman's first child is a female, it 
 is taken away into the woods and there left to die. When a 
 Galla kills his first man, he cuts off the head and brings it 
 home to his village as a proof, and henceforth wears an ivory 
 ring on the right arm, above the elbow, to show that he has 
 proved himself a man. 
 
 " When a man dies he is buried close to his cattle-shed, as 
 that is considered the place of honour, and it is there that 
 all the councils are held. Fach- district is governed by a 
 Sultan or chief, who is elected by the chief men, but when 
 once elected, the office becomes hereditar)'. Their marriage 
 
 z
 
 338 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CH. xvii 
 
 customs are the same as those of the Wa-Boni ; the woman 
 lias no say in the matter. The man who wishes to marry 
 a woman, asks leave of her father, giving him a present of 
 cattle, honey, and tobacco. For ornaments they wear bangles 
 and necklaces of brass, tin, and very small ear-rings ; the men 
 when fighting at close quarters wear a large brass or iron 
 ring with two sharp edges (a kind of knuckle-duster) ; it is 
 used for striking downwards. 
 
 " They are very fond of an intoxicating drink made from 
 honey ; they are also great tobacco-chewers, the same plug 
 will last them for one or two days. After having chewed 
 a little, they take it out of the mouth and place it behind 
 the ear, like a pen, where it is carried until again required. 
 Very little grain is consumed, flesh and milk being their chief 
 food."
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 GOLBANTI TO WITU 
 
 Journey down the River — The Belesoni Canal — The Tana Swamps — 
 Kalota River — Kisanga Wells — The Ozi River — Kau — Camping in 
 a Graveyard — Crocodiles— Kirimanda River— "M'To Mombamba" — 
 March to Witu — European Officers at Witu — The Rebel Sultan — Salt 
 Lake — The Cattle Disease — A Loyal Native Gentleman — The Witu 
 Country. 
 
 I LEFT Golbanti on February 20 for Kau, proceeding down 
 the river in a large dhow, which carried me and all my 
 belongings. Progress was very slow : it took a good eight 
 hours to reach the Belesoni canal, stated to be fourteen miles 
 distant from Golbanti, which connects the Tana and the Ozi 
 rivers. 
 
 " The Belesoni (or M'Beledzoni) canal varies from 4 to 7 
 feet in width. The banks are entirely covered with high grass, 
 and the depth varies according to the state of the Tana, from 
 a few inches to several feet. 
 
 " From Captain Dundas's observations, it would appear 
 that at one time the Ozi and Tana mouths were outlets for 
 one large river, the area between them being a sort of alluvial 
 delta. During an overflow of the Tana, the Ozi even now 
 carries off a large quantity of its water, owing to the country 
 north-west of the Belesoni being flooded. In the heavy rains 
 the current of the Tana is so strong that it drives the tide 
 back in the Ozi, rendering the water quite drinkable as far as 
 Kau, the supply for which place in the dry season has to be 
 obtained from wells." ^ 
 
 My way from the banks of the Tana led along the left 
 
 ' See 'Exploration of the Tana,' by Captain Dundas, Proceedings of the 
 Royal Geographical Society^ August 1S92. 
 
 339
 
 346 'IKAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 bank of the Bclcsoni canal in a N.N.E. direction. The 
 country by the canal is covered in every direction, as far as 
 can be seen, with a rank growth of high aquatic grass 6 feet 
 high, on a black, tenacious clay soil, very slippery, and in 
 places cracked into deep fissures by the heat. This soil is of 
 great depth, as is shown by the banks of the canal, which 
 were fully 4 to 5 and sometimes 6 feet above the water. 
 The canal was, at the time of my visit, nearly dry, and was 
 impassable for " mows " or canoes. 
 
 After proceeding for an hour along the banks of the canal, 
 I crossed over to the other side, and almost immediately lost 
 the small foot-track we were following. It was quite over- 
 grown by the thick high grass of the alluvial plain through 
 which we were still proceeding, now and then having to wade 
 through swampy hollows, also covered with grass. We 
 emerged eventually upon a dry tongue of land, forming an 
 island above the general level, and covered with prickly dwarf 
 mimosas (seeds, white, with spur) and some Hypluenc thcbaica 
 or dum palms. 
 
 ]3eyond this we passed through another swamp also covered 
 with high aquatic grass and surrounded by numerous Hyphaine 
 palms ; continuing over an open grass plain (the soil of which 
 was very black friable loam intermixed with roots and 
 resembling peat), we waded through more swamps, and after 
 much difficulty, occasioned by constantly losing the narrow 
 overgrown track, we emerged once more on the plain, covered 
 with the same growth of aquatic grass, and fringed on all 
 sides with rows of tall Hypha;ne palms, the soil being still of 
 black clay. 
 
 Proceeding in a north-easterly direction we crossed a narrow 
 swampy river, the bed being filled with a dense growth of 
 thick aquatic grass and reeds, and fairly deep — the water 
 coming up to my middle and shoulders. This is the Kalota 
 river, which takes its rise in the Tana swamps, and flows 
 from north-west eastward. On the opposite side stretched 
 the same low plain, and after crossing another swamp — three 
 hours from the Tana — we eventually arrived at M'Tomoni 
 shambas, lying in a north-easterly direction from the river, and 
 the first sign of cultivation on this side of it.
 
 XVII I TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 341 
 
 These shambas are called in full, M'Tomoni cum Wegne 
 Akombo, and consist of a small area planted with coco-nuts 
 and bananas, and a little ground culti\-ation — maize and beans 
 and a few bushes of capsicum pepper (with large yellow pods). 
 The shambas are situated on a point of land of a higher level 
 running out into the lower swampy alluvial flats just traversed. 
 The soil was gre}' sand}' loam. The whole of the alluvial 
 plain referred to is completel}' under water during the wet 
 season, a boat or canoe being necessary to cross it. 
 
 Continuing through the shambas, still in a north-easterly 
 direction, and passing some baobabs, I arrived at the small 
 village of M'Tomoni, stated to be at one and a half hours' 
 distance — or roughly four and a half to five miles — from Kau. 
 Lea\'ing M'Tomoni, we descended once more on to the continua- 
 tion of the low plains just traversed, and surrounded, espcciall\- 
 on the east and south-east, by a thick fringe of lU-jjliajne 
 palms. The soil of this plain was dark grey cla}', and covered 
 with grass. The plain narrowing as I proceeded, and still 
 fringed on all sides as described, I arrived upon a second 
 small cultivated area called Kisanga, this too comprising 
 coco-nuts and mango trees, and some ground cultivation. 
 The soil here was light sand}- gre}' loam. 
 
 Kisanga is chiefl}' noted for possessing good water wells, 
 and it is on these wells that the people of Kau depend for 
 their chief suppl}' during the hot or dr}' season. Kisanga is 
 surrounded on the north-east side by low bush, and on the 
 west by the low-l}-ing plains. 
 
 Proceeding through Kisanga, I again entered on flat land, 
 at present covered with short green grass ; the soil black to 
 dark gre}- cla}-cy loam. I continued in a north-east b}- east 
 direction, passing through a pool of fresh water, and across a 
 similar grass}- plain with patches of bush, and fringed with the 
 same north and south. This plain was c\-identl}- subject to 
 floods ; it became more and more swamp}' until, after dark, 
 I found m}-self marching through thick mangroves, mud and 
 water, and brackish pools, having lattcrl}- the Ozi river on my 
 left. At 7.30 p.m. I reached that river, which I crossed in the 
 ferry boat — hippopotami snorting round us — and arrived at 
 Kau. Passing through the town, I camped outside it at 8 p.m.
 
 342 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA c H. xviii 
 
 near a pool of water, and in the mornini;- (liscovcrccl that I was 
 in the middle of the town graveyard, and the pool we had been 
 drinking from was where the people washed themselves and 
 their clothes ! This had been a very fatiguing march, and I 
 had had nothing to eat but a few biscuits since leaving Golbanti 
 at 6 a.m. 
 
 The thermometer at Kau next day (February 21) at 6 and 
 10 a.m., 12 noon, and 2 p.m., stood respectively at 70 ', 86", 87', 
 and Sf in the shade. 
 
 I annex a sketch-map giving the position of Kau, 
 which may be useful for present reference. As will be seen, 
 the town of Kau is situated on what ma}^ be described as an 
 island, formed by the river Ozi on one side and its tributary 
 rivers and creeks on the other ; and its communication with 
 the Tana river through the Belesoni canal gives it considerable 
 commercial advantages, enabling it to command the greater 
 |3ortion of the traffic descending the Tana. Kau was formerly 
 a Pokomo settlement, but the Pokomos were driven awa}' by 
 the Swahilis, who then occupied the town ; and as long as 
 the raiding and plundering of the unfortunate Pokomos was 
 unchecked the place continued to be of considerable import- 
 ance — the Sultan of Witu also levying customs dues on all 
 traffic passing up and down the Tana river until driven back 
 to his own territory by the British East Africa Company. 
 Put times are now changed, the advent of civilized influence 
 and authority have put an end to an importance derived 
 chiefly from illegality and oppression, and Kau does not now 
 comprise more than about 300 inhabitants. It possesses a 
 substantial stone-built fort, erected in a position to command 
 the water approaches of the town. 
 
 Comparatively little trading with the Pokomos is now 
 carried on, and at the period of my visit there were onh- two 
 Indian traders' shops to be found in the town. Cultivation 
 has also greatly decreased, a Swaliili being no longer able to 
 . coerce a Pokomo (previously regarded and treated as his 
 natural slave) to labour for him as before. Consequent!}- the 
 cultivated area has greatly decreased, and the people of Kau, 
 ])()ssessing but few slaves, are obliged to work in their fields 
 ihemsehes. Thus it was on!)- the easih- accessible portions of
 
 344 TRAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the Tana — as, for example, Chara — that were cultivated, and 
 even these, I observed on my journey down the river, showed 
 unmistakable sU^ns of neglect. 
 
 I was informed that in the year 1889 the Wa-Galla owned 
 from 200 to 300 head of cattle on the swampy grass plains 
 near Kau, where they had a small village called, I believe, 
 Kitumbini ; but all the cattle were destro}'ed b\- the 
 disease. 
 
 The O'/A is a tidal river, the tide running up to Kau, and, 
 in the north-east monsoon, fully six to eight miles bc}'ond the 
 town. In the south-west monsoon, for the reason already 
 referred to, the tide is driven back b}- the Tana flood, and the 
 water is fresh. During the dry season fresh ^\'ater has often 
 to be obtained from the wells at Kisanga, which I passed on 
 my wa}' here. 
 
 I observed with interest some coco-nuts growing on the 
 south bank of the Ozi, and looking very robust and luxuriant. 
 These were the first I saw on the mainland actually growing 
 in salt or brackish water ; I noticed others growing amongst 
 the oozy mud on the banks of the small channel to the north 
 of the town. 
 
 The great importance which I attach to the question of 
 utilizing the extensive areas formed by mangrove swamps, 
 by planting them with coco-nuts, and so transforming these 
 malarious swamps and wastes into fertile and prosperous 
 plantations, makes me welcome this opportunity of again 
 drawing attention to the subject. I ha\-e already quoted 
 comjjctent authority as to the suitability of such localities 
 for coco-nut cultivation, and I had personal evidence of the 
 fact in Zanzibar Island, where, at Kokotoni, I was much 
 interested in the healthy and vigorous appearance of coco-nut 
 trees growing on the margin of a ri\-er along which the sea- 
 uatcr tide was felt. 
 
 I he Kau people possessed other coco-nut ])lantations at 
 Ki|)ini, which will be referred to later on. 
 
 I lippopotami and crocodiles are numerous in the Ozi ri\cr ; 
 the latter parlicularl)' are so fierce that at one time a palisade 
 had to be put down in the river for protection at the spot 
 where women and children went to draw water, so man)'
 
 XVIII TRA\'ELS IX EAST AFRICA 345 
 
 unfortunate victims had been seized and dragged off by these 
 brutes. 
 
 I started for W'itu in the afternoon of Februar)- 21, going 
 in a north-easterly direction, and noticing on my right some 
 small rice-fields, enclosed by mud walls to retain the water — 
 the soil was of a stiff grey loam. Turning to the north, I 
 soon came upon the Kirimanda river, a small stream flowing 
 into the Ozi to the south-east of Kau, and also connected 
 with the latter b}' a small stream, M'To Mombamba, to the 
 W.N.W., which rises in the low swampy plain to the north 
 of the town. The Kirimanda is also tidal (through the Ozi), 
 and where I crossed it the water was salt. The river is 
 fringed with a thick rank growth of vegetation, amongst 
 which many wild date palms were noticeable. The soil was 
 of the richest black oozy mud, and should do exceedingly 
 well for coco-nut cultivation. 
 
 Here there was a small ferry to W'itu, comprising two 
 canoes, and it took me three-quarters of an hour to get my 
 porters and loads across — the men sinking up to their knees 
 in the deep mud. The path after this skirted the Kirimanda 
 river through mangrove swamj^s, and here and there brackish 
 pools (the mangroves being fine trees), with occasional 
 open patches of short green grass. Hippo tracks were \er\- 
 numerous. Then succeeded an <^pen grass plain w ith scattered 
 patches of bush, the soil being dark grey to black loam}- cla\', 
 with occasional patches of white sand. 
 
 The countr}' between Kau and the town of W'itu — a 
 distance of ten miles — -as well as that extending in a south- 
 easterly direction to Kipini, and in the opposite direction to 
 N'Gao, may be briefl)* described as a low, flat, swamj))' plain, 
 evidentl}- subject to periodic floods. One portion of it 
 contains a swampy salt-water channel, which my guide told 
 me was flooded in the rains witli fresh water. Mangro\-es, 
 Hyphfene palms, acacias, and baobabs alternate with open 
 grass, the soil being generally a gre}- loam. 
 
 The latter part of the distance, during which the soil — a sandy 
 grey loam — may be described as excellent, was through culti- 
 vated land, beans, maize, scattered mango trees, and a small 
 coco-nut plantation, being met with before we arrix'ed at W'itu.
 
 34''' TR.WKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 I took up my quarters here with Mr. Bird-Thomi)soii and 
 Dr. Rae, the Compan}''.s officers then in char<^e of the ch'strict, 
 from whom I received the <^reatest assistance and courtesy 
 durint; my stay. Both these gentlemen, I regret to say, 
 ha\e since died. 
 
 I was laid up here for four da}\s by illness, most probably 
 caused b)- drinking the graveyard water at Kau ! There was 
 some excitement in the town just then. One of the men of 
 Fumo Omari (the rebel " Sultan " of Witu), who had been 
 causing a good deal of disturbance lately by slave-stealing 
 and troubling the Pokomos on the Tana, had been arrested 
 and imprisoned in Lamu b\" Capt. Rogers, the Company's 
 Commandant. Fumo Omari had threatened war if the man 
 was not released, and the Compan}-'s Indian police Tabout 
 lOO strong) were held in readiness to guard against an 
 attack. 
 
 Witu is situated on a low ridge, and is entirely surrounded 
 by an oval belt of forest. The town is traversed b}- wide 
 straight roads, available in cases of emergency for sweeping 
 the approaches to the town. The water suppl}' was abundant 
 and good, and was obtained chiefl}- from the old wells which 
 had recently been cleaned out ; some of it was slightl)- brackish 
 in taste. Stone and coral rock are plentiful, and lime can be 
 made in any quantit\- from the latter. There is a small ri\'cr 
 about fifteen minutes' walk to the east of the town, flowing 
 from the north and eventually losing itself to the south-east. 
 During sc\'cn months of the }-ear it is quite dry, and the 
 dr)- bed is clearly defined, but when full in the rain}- season, 
 a boat is required to cross it. 
 
 Another noticeable feature, and one of great local im- 
 portance, is a small salt lake, situated to the south of the 
 town. In the rainy season it is filled with salt water, but 
 during the dry season its bed is covered with a thick white 
 incrustation of salt which renews itself as often as removed. 
 This natural salt is of remarkable whiteness, and cr\-stallizes 
 into masses of such hardness that it has to be broken w ith 
 native axes. The salt forms a great article of trade with the 
 i^okomos on the Tana, and an}' one gathering it from the 
 lake can at an\- time exchange it in the town for pro\isions.
 
 XVIII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 347 
 
 A laudable attempt had been made some time back by 
 the Company to introduce wheeled traffic into the district, 
 and with this object sixteen bullock hackeries had been sent 
 up, and thirty or forty Indian bullocks. The former seemed 
 to me to be much too heavy, and something on the 
 same principle, but much lighter, and suitable for one 
 bullock — like the light Ceylon hackeries — struck me as being 
 better adapted for the purpose. Unfortunately the experi- 
 ment perished at its inception through the death of all the 
 bullocks from the cattle disease. This plague had swept the 
 countr}' from Abyssinia to the Equatorial Lakes, destro)'ing 
 not only cattle, but herds of buffaloes, deer, etc. etc., till the 
 whole region was strewn with skeletons. It has since then, 
 as every one knows, made its way southwards nearly to the 
 Cape, where it has not only devastated herds, but brought 
 about political troubles.^ As to the character and extent 
 of the epidemic, the following extracts from Captain Lugard's 
 
 1 Long after the above lines were written, Mr. F. C. Sclous delivered 
 an address before the Geographical section of the British Association at 
 Toronto, Canada, on The Economic Geography of Rhodesia, which was 
 published in The Times of August 25, 1897, from which I cjuote the 
 following extract — 
 
 " At present there are practically no cattle in Rhodesia. The rindei-pest 
 last year swept e\ery herd in the country off the face of the earth. But 
 that scourge has passed, and is not likely ever to occur again, and in 
 course of time the whole country will be re-stocked. That Matabeleland 
 is a good cattle country no one can deny who remembers the innumerable 
 .herds which covered the land in Lobengula's time, and I can testify from 
 my own experience that all the high plateau lands of Rhodesia are ecjually 
 suitable for horned cattle. ... As far as I have been able to learn from 
 the natives, the cattle indigenous to Rhodesia were very free from disease. 
 The lung sickness (pleuro-pneumonia) originally introduced into South 
 Africa from Holland, spread to Matabeleland in 1854, but was unknown 
 in Mashonaland until 1890, when it accompanied the pioneer expedition 
 to that country. The effects of this disease are most disastrous amongst 
 a herd of uninoculated cattle, but if the yeai-'s calves are inoculated 
 regularly every year, as is the practice of all careful farmers in .South 
 Africa, there is but little to be feared from it, and it is now most virulent 
 amongst the cattle of natives who do not practise inoculation. Besides 
 lung sickness there is no other disease at all prevalent amongst cattle in 
 Rhodesia, as fai^ as I know. A few die annually from gall sickness, which 
 is apparently produced by the richness of the grass, as cattle are always 
 very fat when they die of this disease."
 
 348 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 work on ICastcrn Africa^ will give all the information here 
 necessary. Concerning the course of the plague, he says — 
 
 " The plague seems to have started on the east coast, opposite 
 Aden, and to have spread inland. It began at the end of 1 889, 
 and when I went into the interior in the December of that 
 year it had not reached Masailand and Ukamba, nor yet in 
 the spring of 1 890. When I returned up-country in the 
 autumn of 1890 it had spread through these countries, and the 
 cattle and buffaloes were dead. It had preceded me through 
 Kavirondo and Uganda, though when Mr. Jackson passed 
 down in the summer of 1890, it was only beginning to show 
 its effects. Beyond Uganda I found it had just preceded me 
 through Ankoli and Unyoro ; and in the far heart of Africa, 
 at Kavalli, it had swept off every ox only a few weeks before I 
 arrixcd (Sej)t. 1891). Passing southwards, it reached the north 
 of Nyasa about July 1892, and we may look to hear of its 
 ravages in the north, in the Soudan and Abyssinia, till it 
 reaches the confines of Egypt, and on the west through the 
 Congo State till its area of death has extended from sea to 
 sea." 
 
 In another place he writes — 
 
 " It is strange that so little is known of the nature of this 
 plague. It has been reported as a kind of anthrax by Dr. 
 Charlcsworth at Zanzibar, whilst others (and these apparently 
 the majorit)-) have described it as a lung disease. Dr. Mac- 
 kinnon and Captain Rogers thus describe it from Witu. 
 
 " Mr. Shar[jc, from N}-asaland, states the disease there to 
 have been pleuro-pneumonia. The enormous extent of the 
 devastation it has caused in Africa can hardly be exaggerated. 
 Most of the tribes possessed vast herds of thousands on 
 thousands of cattle, and of these, in some localities, hardly one 
 is left ; in others, the deaths ha\e been limited to perhaps 
 90 ])er cent. In the case of the Bantu for Negroid) tribes, 
 the loss, though a terrible one, did not, as a rule, involve 
 starvation and death to the people, since being also agricul- 
 tural, they possess large crops as a resource. But to the pastoral 
 races the loss of their cattle meant death. The Wahuma, I 
 was told, had perished in vast numbers with their animals. 
 ' 'I'lic Rise of our Enst African J-liiipirc, h\ Captain LuLjard.
 
 will TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 349 
 
 Everywhere the people I saw were gaunt and half-starved, 
 and covered with skin diseases. Not only had they no crops 
 of any sort or kind to replace the milk and meat which formed 
 their natural diet, but many were unable to accommodate them- 
 selves to such a change, and all were completely ignorant of 
 agriculture." 
 
 Thus not only did the cattle disappear, but also large 
 numbers of the pastoral tribes, who depended upon cattle alone 
 for food. 
 
 The action of the disease is extremely rapid, in three suc- 
 cessive stages of violent purging, debility, and death.^ Emin 
 Pasha ascribed the disease which he found so fatal in Latuka 
 to the scarcity of salt — - 
 
 " Although the abundance of game is a blessing to the 
 people, I attribute to it a fact which I could not previously 
 explain : all cattle brought here, and riding animals, such as 
 
 ^ The symptoms of the great African cattle distemper (which unhappily 
 has not yet quite run its course) are thus given by the Government 
 veterinary surgeon in Rhodesia (Mr. C. E. Gray). I believe that at the 
 time this epidemic was raging on the mainland, frequent cases of anthrax 
 occurred amongst the horses at Zanzibar — 
 
 " Extreme depression, arching of the back, disinclination to move, and 
 frequently grinding of the teeth; the eyes appear swollen and very red. 
 There is a discharge of mucus from the eyes, nose, and sometimes from 
 the vagina, with frequently marked dripping of saliva from the mouth. 
 On examination it will be found that sometimes the mucous membrane 
 Qovering the roof of the mouth is broken in places. These broken places 
 are very much reddened, and occasionally there is a certain amount of 
 redness at the base of the front teeth. These last two features are not, 
 however, invariably present. As the disease progresses diarrhoea generally 
 appears. The discharges are slimy, greenish-yellow in colour, frequently 
 containing flakes of lymph and occasionally bloody; sometimes there is a 
 slight cough. Appetite and rumination are suspended in the later stages, 
 and sometimes twitching of the muscles will be noticed. Pulse weak and 
 rapid; breathing hurried; temperature ranges from 1025° Fahrenheit to 
 io8^ A rise of temperature is one of the early indications of the disease. 
 Duration from twenty-four hours or even less to seven days; average 
 duration five days. The most constant symptoms are the redness and 
 runnings at the eyes and nose and the rise of temperature." ( The Times, 
 May 27, 1896.) 
 
 ^ Emin Pasha in Central Africa, p. 223.
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chai' 
 
 donkeys, mules, etc., are ruined after a short stay. Swelling on 
 different parts of the body, loss of appetite, emaciation, and 
 finally death follow one another speedily, a combination of 
 symptoms which I attribute to the intrusion of intestinal worms. 
 This view is confirmed by the fact that all game absolutely 
 swarms with worms ; this is always the case in countries where 
 salt is rare." 
 
 I was much struck when at Witu with the appearance and 
 conversation of the late Sultan's Commander-in-Chief, a native 
 gentleman named Omari Madi, a man of great intelligence 
 and highly respected. He had been of the greatest help since 
 the late expedition, and had proved very loyal. He visited 
 Mr. Bird-Thompson twice a day, and although repeatedly 
 offered, had always refused to accept any reward whatever for 
 his services. Formerly he had been one of the largest cultiva- 
 tors in the district, but at present he barely possessed more 
 than ten or twelve slaves, and worked with them himself. I 
 was indebted to him for much valuable information concerning 
 the countr}-. 
 
 The open plain surrounding Witu extends for about fifteen 
 miles in a north-easterly direction, broken here and there by 
 scattered woods, the remains of the original forest. Beyond 
 the plain follows forest, reported to be rich in indiarubber of 
 a superior quality. This forest is stated to be very extensive, 
 and to extend in a northerly direction for " many days," 
 Omari Madi informing me that its extent was quite unknown. 
 I was also informed that fertile land, of an excellent quality, 
 extends for two and a half days' march to the north-west ; the 
 soil being said to be everywhere equally rich, and generally of 
 a black loamy nature. With the exception of Mulali, where 
 there is a small wood, the country close to Witu is generally 
 covered with mimosas and Hypha^ne palms. 
 
 Utwani, the indiarubber forest, lies four and a half miles 
 away due east of Witu, the path following the telegraph-line. 
 This forest extends to the lake of M'Pekatoni (about fifteen 
 miles distant) in a south-easterly direction, and about eighteen 
 miles in the opposite or north-westerly direction. It is not 
 very broad — a quarter of an hour's stretch — and roughly the
 
 will TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 351 
 
 forest may be described as a long narrow strip, the tele- 
 graph-line to M'Konumbi and Lamu cutting it at right 
 angles.^ 
 
 Utwani lies on the main road from Witu to Lamu, the next 
 place being Pangani, situated about three miles beyond. 
 Hyphaine palms again form a common feature in the landscape, 
 and the soil is a light sandy loam covered with coarse grass. 
 The country is flat, and was reported to be flooded to a depth 
 of 2)h fss^ during the wet season, the floods lasting on an 
 average two and a half months. 
 
 Beyond Pangani lies Fungo Zombo, at a distance of about 
 five and a half miles. About seven miles beyond, or twenty 
 miles from Witu, is M'Konumbi (a sea-creek), the shipping 
 port of Lamu, the country around being flat and open and 
 more or less cultivated. 
 
 Jongeni, the head-quarters of the rebel Sultan, F"umo Omari, 
 lay to the north-east of the town of Witu, about twenty-four 
 miles distant. Jongeni was surrounded by stockaded villages 
 situated in the forest, and defended by rifle and sand-pits. 
 
 After this general outline, from information supplied to me 
 by Mr. Bird-Thompson and Omari Madi, I will now record my 
 personal observations of the district. 
 
 ^ The telegraph-line connects Mombasa with Lamu, vui Melindi, Gol- 
 banti, and Witu.
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 THE WITU DISTRICT — WITU TO KIl'INI 
 
 The Utwani Forest — Disturbed State of the Country — The English 
 Expedition of 1890— The Tsetse Fly — Start for Shaga — Lake Cha- 
 kamba — A German Settlei-'s Cotton Plantation. 
 
 Being desirous of inspecting the forest belt surrounding the 
 town of Witu, I made an excursion thither, Mr. Bird-Thompson 
 and Omari Madi courteously accompanying me. 
 
 Going out by the eastern gate, we proceeded in a north- 
 easterly direction over a large open plain, stated by Omari 
 Madi to have been once extensively cultivated, chiefly with 
 rice. On our left we were skirting the forest belt, and on 
 the right we passed some scattered coco-nuts, and numerous 
 Hypha^ne palms, as well as a number of straight white- 
 stemmed trees, the timber of which was not used. The 
 soil was excellent, light friable brown loam. Such culti- 
 vation as existed was all within a short distance of Witu, 
 fear of Fumo Omari's followers preventing the people from 
 clearing or opening up land at any great distance. Two and 
 a half miles from the town cultivators stopped work in the 
 middle of the day, for as recently as last year three women 
 were killed at a place called Mehanini, south-west from Witu. 
 The last raiding expedition of the Jongeni people had been 
 made against the Pokomos at X'Gatana in the October or 
 Nov^ember previous to my visit. 
 
 Entering a fringe of forest, with a rich and fertile black 
 loamy soil, and composed of large trees with dense under- 
 growth, we came upon a small swamp, on the forest edge of 
 which a German had had a small tobacco-garden prior to the 
 trouble that had brought on the punitive naval expedition of 
 
 352
 
 CH. XIX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 353 
 
 October 1890.^ Omari Madi, who had seen the tobacco 
 growing, assured me that it was very fine indeed, but he did 
 not think any of the crop had been sold. The soil round this 
 swamp and on the adjacent open grass plain was rich dark 
 loam. 
 
 Skirting the forest on the left, we had on the right a plain 
 covered with thick feathery-headed grass about 2 feet high ; 
 there were also scattered mimosas and Hyphaene and fan palms. 
 The forest contains fine large timber trees, and extends for about 
 three and a half miles to the north of Witu. It was reported 
 to contain ebony (Swahili, " m'pengo "), and I saw some small 
 specimens here and there along the forest edge. As we 
 proceeded, the grass plain— reported to be flooded during 
 the south-west monsoon, and to have been formerly under 
 extensive rice cultivation — -spread away northward and east- 
 ward with scattered Hyphaene palms and low bush, the soil 
 being a rich black loam. Of course, at this time the unsettled 
 and insecure state of the country was a complete hindrance 
 to cultivation of any kind. 
 
 Still skirting the forest, our direction was now north-west ; 
 the plain became more park-like and the country very level, 
 the soil still continuing rich. The fan palms especially were so 
 very numerous, that a profitable use might be made of the leaves 
 and fibre. The leaves were universally used for thatching, and, 
 being heavier, made a better and more lasting roof than coco- 
 palm thatch. The natives stated that a roof made of fan-palm 
 leaves lasted seven years ; even supposing (making allowance 
 for white ants) the duration to be only five years, the material 
 appears to be wonderfully serviceable. Mats were made on 
 a small scale, and doubtless makandas (mat-bags) could be 
 made in large quantities, if there were a demand for them. 
 
 ^ Nine Germans, under the guidance of a Herr Kiintzel (who had 
 previously resided in the district), were desirous of setting up saw-mills 
 in the Utwani forest. AH but two were ruthlessly shot down as they 
 entered the town of Witu to solicit the Sultan's permission. The British 
 Government having recently taken over the protectorate of Witu from 
 Germany (July i, 1890), was obliged to despatch a punitive naval expe- 
 dition to avenge the death of these men, and the town was entered by 
 our Naval Brigade, and the Sultan's palace was blown up. The Sultan 
 (Fumo Omari) was proclaimed an outlaw, and fled into the bush. 
 
 A A
 
 354- TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chak 
 
 Having now reached the end of the forest belt, we turned 
 round it in a south-westerly direction. The low flat grass 
 plain still continued, extending as far as could be seen to 
 the north-east. I noticed a few clumps of the succulent 
 guinea-grass — an unfailing indication of rich soil — so largely- 
 cultivated on Indian and Ceylon plantations for feeding horses 
 and cattle. All the plain on this side was under cultivation, 
 one of Omari Madi's former shambas being close by. I ex- 
 amined the soil of a dry water-hole here to a depth of 4 feet ; it 
 was the same black friable sandy loam as previously described- 
 Proceeding next through thick grass, 4 feet high, with some 
 scattered baobabs, the soil in places being a lighter loam, we 
 passed through one or two other old shambas of Omari 
 Madi's, where rice had formerly been cultivated. 
 
 Following the curve of the forest belt, and proceeding 
 southward, we came to an open fertile plain, extending 
 away to the westward and formerly under rice and millet. 
 Hyphaine and fan palms were numerous. The former were 
 now only tapped for toddy in a small way — formerly the 
 toddy had been extracted more extensively, the Wa-Galla 
 being very fond of it. A little further on, I passed some 
 fine scattered mango trees. Later, we passed through two 
 low swamps, and after these, came upon an undulating plain, 
 all grass, with scattered baobabs, the soil being still a black 
 friable loam. 
 
 Having now come to the lower end of the forest belt, we 
 turned homewards to the north-east, joining at right angles 
 the road I had traversed from Kau, and passing by the fringe 
 of coco-nuts above the salt lake, through a small area of 
 cultivation consisting of cocD-nuts, maize, and beans. 
 
 Roughly, it had taken three hours to make the circuit of 
 the forest surrounding Witu, and half-an-hour (or perhaps 
 less) to go through it. I^eyond this forest stretches on all 
 sides an extensive flat, fertile plain, offering every facility for 
 cultivation on a large scale. 
 
 I left Witu on February 2S, accompanied by Mr. Bird- 
 Thompson, on a visit to the Utwani forest. The direction 
 taken was due east. About ten minutes' distance we again 
 crossed the dry bed (jf the small stream. Then the way led
 
 XIX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 355 
 
 over a large and slightly undulating open grass plain, with 
 numerous fan palms, large trees and clumj^s of bush. This 
 plain would very soon revert to bush were it not for the 
 grass being constantly burnt during the dry season. On the 
 far left I observed a strip of Utwani forest, a remnant of the 
 original forest which had evidently at one time covered the 
 whole plain, extending in a north-westerly direction. There 
 were also some scattered mango trees, the relics of former 
 cultivation. The soil was generally of a uniform friable 
 character and dark grey colour. Mr. Bird-Thompson informed 
 me that the greater portion of this country was flooded during 
 the rainy season. 
 
 Entering the forest we passed through an open clearing, 
 where in 1889 the Germans had a tobacco plantation, which 
 had been opened up by a certain Herr Toeppen. 
 
 The forest to the north-east of Witu (in which the rebel 
 stockades at Jongeni were situated) was reported — with what 
 truth my informant could not say — to extend up to the Juba 
 river, running parallel to the coast, at an average distance 
 from the sea of about thirty miles. 
 
 Utwani is a fine forest, of large heavy-timbered trees and 
 thick undergrowth, extending in a north-westerly direction. 
 Its width where the telegraph-line crosses it is about 1600 
 yards. In the middle lies a swamp. I examined the soil in 
 two places — in one it was rich friable grey loam ; in the other, 
 close to the swamp, black stiff loam mixed with sand. 
 
 Beyond the forest to the eastward. we again find the open 
 grass plain with numerous Hypha^ne palms, and these charac- 
 teristics continue up to Fungo Zombo, some portions being 
 more open, and the soil a light brown sandy loam. The 
 country here is more or less flooded for two months in the 
 year, during the south-west monsoon. 
 
 One impediment to the future agricultural development of 
 this part of the country (existing in East Africa, however, to 
 a much less extent than in any other part of the continent) is 
 the presence of the Tsetse Fly. A variety of it, and another 
 species, a gadfly, are found in Witu. In the lower coast region, 
 between Mombasa and Uganda, the tsetse fly is said to be 
 localized in a comparatively narrow belt, easily passed during
 
 356 TRAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA cHAP. 
 
 the night, and there is no doubt that the destruction of cattle 
 and game during the epidemic considerably lessened the 
 numbers of this insect pest. In Witu, too, the variety known 
 there appears to be confined to a very limited area, chiefly 
 forest, and in which Utwani is included. The Wa-Galla are 
 accustomed to guard against the fly (called locally " Ganda "), 
 when driving their cattle through the forest, by doing so at 
 night, and by lighting large fires, the smoke of which acts as a 
 protection to the cattle. 
 
 So little appears to be known about the tsetse fly, that 
 the following information concerning it may prove of interest 
 — " There are several species of these poisonous two-winged 
 
 THE TSETSE FLY [Gljssiiia inorsildus) magnified. 
 
 ACTUAL SIZE. 
 
 flies recorded from various parts of Africa, and the one com- 
 monly found in the Shire highlands is GlossiJia viorsitans, 
 much resembling, but rather larger than the common house- 
 fly. Its general colour is dark brown, with lighter markings 
 on the abdomen, and biting proboscis protruding from under- 
 neath the head, the antenna; being distinctly pectinated bristles. 
 . . . The buffalo, the zebra, and the large family of antelopes 
 are proof against the poison of the tsetse, and this must have 
 come about by means of inoculation for ages past. It is diffi- 
 cult to conceive that a single bite from such an apparently 
 insignificant fly should prove fatal to large animals, such as 
 horses and cattle, but that they do succumb is an undoubted
 
 XIX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 357 
 
 fact. The victim after being bitten falls off in condition, 
 assumes a staring coat, suffers from extreme depression and 
 loss of appetite, and ultimately dies from what may be termed 
 a species of blood-poisoning. In the British Museum are 
 specimens of our common tsetse fly from Benin, the Congo, 
 Witu, and Lake Mweru ; other species recorded from the 
 Upper Sabaki river, the Limpopo river, and Somaliland are 
 also there. There is another fly, in this case a gadfly — Tabaiuis 
 latipes, Macq. — the size and shape of a large blue-bottle fly, 
 recorded from Witu, and also from Nyasaland, which is 
 most harassing to cattle and horses. It is a formidable-look- 
 ing creature, with interrupted brown markings on the wings. 
 It is reported to be a great scourge in East Africa, and draws 
 
 MAGXIFIED PROBOSCIS OF TSF.TSE FI.Y. 
 
 blood so freely as to render cattle weak and unfit for work. 
 The bite is also very painful. There is no mistaking it for 
 the ordinary gadflies, which are longer in the bod}', and have 
 no bars on the wings. With reference to passing domestic 
 animals rapidly through tsetse-infected districts, it is said that 
 smearing the body of the animal all over with cow manure 
 in a semi-liquid state renders it proof against the bite of the 
 fly. This I can quite believe, as, curious to say, cow-dung is 
 most offensive to many insects belonging to widely different 
 families of the insect kingdom. I am strongly of opinion 
 that a mixture of kerosene oil and cow-dung would be found 
 a most effectual application in warding off the tsetse." ^ 
 
 Mr. Selous, the well-known African hunter and explorer, 
 
 1 R€p07-t on the Botanical Aspects of British Central Africa, by Mr. 
 Alexander White, Foreign Ofifice, 1895, No. 373.
 
 358 TRAX'KLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 states, however, that it takes several flies to kill a horse, and 
 that of the various domestic animals, the donkey is best able 
 to resist the fly. 
 
 " In countries where the tsetse fly is in excessive numbers 
 the donkey, strong as he is, will not live long; but he resists 
 the poison far better than any other domestic animal, and will 
 pass through belts of 'fly' country without taking much 
 harm, his constitution being so strong that he will recover 
 from the effects of the poison, if not kept too long in the 
 infected district ; whereas an ox, or a horse, if once impreg- 
 nated, will almost always pine away and die. I say almost to 
 a certainty, because I have heard of cases of oxen and horses 
 recovering after having been bitten, but such cases are very 
 exceptional. The younger the animal, whether horse, ox, or 
 donkey, the better will he resist the ' fly ' poison." ^ 
 
 After a rest, I returned to Witu by the old native path, 
 noticing the very numerous Hyphrene and fan palms, which 
 are particularly abundant just outside the forest. About half- 
 way between Utwani and Witu there is a swampy pool, 
 always containing water throughout the dry weather: a 
 solitary mango tree grows close beside it, and makes an 
 excellent landmark. The fringe of Utwani forest which, on 
 turning back, we skirted on our left, soon gave place to the 
 wide open grass plain again, which the path traversed in a 
 north-westerly direction, the soil being of the usual light 
 friable grey loam. 
 
 On the morning of March i, again accompanied by Mr. 
 Bird-Thompson, I left Witu for Kipini, At first the path led 
 over the open grass plain with numerous clumps of fan 
 palms, and scattered Hyphcxne palms, the soil being sandy 
 grey loam, with coral outcrop. On the right there was a low- 
 lying plain, which in the rainy season was flooded, and 
 connected with the Witu stream ; a boat could then go from 
 the latter over the plain. Passing some small clumps of 
 ebony trees we passed over another low-lying plain, which 
 becomes a regular lake in the rains, and remains under water 
 for the space of three months. 
 
 Gradually the path took a higher level, with a plain extending 
 
 ' Travel mid A(h'C)iti<rcs in South Africa^ hy F. C. Selous.
 
 XIX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 359 
 
 on the right -(S.S.W.), and on the left a fringe of Hyphaine 
 pahns ; then skirting Zivvah (or Lake) Chakamba — said to 
 always contain water, a pool of which I noticed on my right — 
 we attained a higher level still above the lake or swamp. 
 Proceeding across this higher plain, which was covered with 
 feathery-stalked, tall grass, I saw the first mango since I 
 started. The same characteristics continued for some time, 
 occasional mango trees giving evidence of former cultivation. 
 The soil, as shown by a hole on the path, was grey sandy 
 loam, with a subsoil of yellow sandy loam, out of which clay 
 might have been washed. Hyphaene palms in clumps and 
 single trees were interspersed with fine mango trees and open 
 stretches of grass, the land being an extensive flat plain; the 
 fine and luxuriant appearance of all the mango trees testified 
 to the depth and excellence of the soil. 
 
 After striking the direct road from Kau to Kipini, the way 
 entered upon a low plain again, which was flooded by the 
 Ozi river. The river was some distance away on the south- 
 w^est, flowing from west to east, and fringed with mangroves. 
 Here and there were visible open white sandy places, where 
 the water pools had lately dried up. As we proceeded, the 
 level varied a little, sometimes higher, then lower, but with 
 the same general features. The tracks of hippopotami were 
 frequent : these animals abound in the Ozi river. 
 
 Presently the path took a higher level (the low plain still 
 continuing on the right), and crossed a plain with very short 
 grass, and some bush. Then descending once more into the 
 low plain, we saw right ahead a cultivated ridge with coco-nuts. 
 Skirting a brackish pool flooded from the Ozi river, we went 
 up the ridge, where millet and coco-nuts were cultivated in 
 a plantation belonging to the Kipini people. We halted in 
 this plantation, Kipini lying due south. 
 
 One of the objects of my visit to this place was to see the 
 cotton plantation of a German gentleman, Herr Tost. It 
 could be seen from the spot where we halted for a short rest, 
 being situated on another low ridge beyond a valley running 
 in a S.S.E. direction. The plain I had just crossed ended 
 here in a fringe of scattered Hyphaene palms. Ascending 
 the opposite ridge, after passing through native cultivation
 
 36o TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 in the intervcninfr valley, we found the top to be a flat 
 table-land, with soil of a very light grey sandy loam. The 
 house of Herr Tost was reached very soon after noon, after 
 a journc)' (deducting halts) of four hours twenty minutes 
 from Witu. 
 
 Herr Tost's house was built in a fine situation, being on 
 the top of the ridge, at an elevation of 90 feet above sea-level. 
 The ridge faces the sea, and slopes down in this direction to a 
 plain about a quarter of a mile wide, covered with low bush, 
 which continues up to Kipini and the Ozi, about two miles off. 
 Opposite the house were the ruins of what was stated to be 
 an old Portuguese settlement, from which an ample supply 
 of stone was procurable ; the water suppl}- was also abundant, 
 being obtained from wells contemporary with the old town. 
 The ruins extended on to the cotton plantation, where more 
 of the old wells were in process of being cleared out. 
 
 Herr Tost had now been residing at Shaka, as the place 
 was called (its full name being Kiva N'Gwena-Wamasha 
 Shaka), for the space of two years, after first trying land near 
 the Tana ri\'er, which he found unsuitable for his purpose. 
 Previously he had resided at Wange, north of Lamu, where 
 he had planted tobacco, but his plantation was destroyed 
 during the local troubles. Lions were reported to be numerous 
 about here, and Herr Tost one night recently had fired at 
 one within 30 feet of his verandah. When Kipini was built, 
 about twenty-five years ago, it was necessary at first to 
 furnish a guard of ten " Viroboto," or Hyderabad soldiers, 
 for any one having occasion to go outside the town at night, 
 so many people having been carried off by lions. 
 
 Herr Tost's cotton plantation was in a well-chosen situation, 
 on the west and lower side of the ridge on ^^•hich the house 
 was erected. It had been opened in thick, low bush with a 
 great deal of fan palm, and was" surrounded by thick belts 
 of I lypha^ne. Herr Tost appeared to have been guided in his 
 choice of situation and land by his German assistant, who 
 had resided some years in the American Cotton States, and 
 who carried out all the preliminary operations of opening, 
 clearing, and sowing the land. 
 
 The soil was chiefly a friable rich grey loam, but interspersed
 
 XIX 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 3^'! 
 
 in portions with a red ferruginous to chocolate loam ; this 
 latter being the characteristic soil on the top of the ridge 
 near the house — a fact evidenced by the formation of the 
 sides of several holes (6 feet deep) which had been dug for 
 the purpose of obtaining earth for sun-dried bricks, for 
 building Herr Tost's house. The general composition of 
 the soil on the plantation was as follows — 
 
 Upper layer of friable loam ... ... i foot. 
 
 Subsoil : red friable U^am (no clay) ... 15 feet. 
 
 Substratum : coral. 
 
 N.B. — This red friable loam resembled the soil on Magarini 
 Hill, and indicated the presence of iron. 
 
 The soil was excellent, and I was informed that sesame 
 grown on this land realized %yl per gisla, as compared with 
 $7] per gisla for sesame grown on other native plantations. 
 
 The first attempt was with " Uplands," or short staple 
 cotton, and the American system of cultivation was followed, 
 viz. raised ridges 4 feet apart, the seed being sown at close 
 intervals of from i to 2 feet. The area under uplands 
 cultivation was not more than ten acres. The cultivation of 
 this staple had now been given up for the Sea Island variet)', 
 a commencement in this having been made in May 1892, 
 when sixty acres were sown. The American system was 
 discontinued, and the native method adopted — men going in 
 front cutting a slight hole with the hoe, and women following 
 behind, dropping seed into the holes of the respective lines, 
 each plant being i foot, ih feet, and 2 feet distance from 
 the other. 
 
 While this system favours a larger number of plants to the 
 acre, against it may be put the disadvantage of irregular lines, 
 and the impossibility of using any agricultural implement 
 for weeding the ground (a matter of importance on a per- 
 manent cotton plantation), so that hand weeding has to be 
 resorted to. When the crop is only an annual one, the above 
 system would possess the advantage of cheapness, but this 
 is all. 
 
 The total area planted and actually under cultivation at
 
 362 TRAVELS IN EAST AERICA CHAP. 
 
 the time of my visit was 140 acres, and I append a rough 
 sketch of the estate — 
 
 60 acres 
 Sea Island cotton, 
 planted May 1892. 
 First crop, Oct. 1893. 
 
 10 acres 
 Uplands short staple 
 (abandoned). 
 
 70 acres 
 
 Sea Island, 
 
 December and January, 
 
 October 1892. 
 
 N.B. — No hedge separated the Uplands and Sea Island. 
 
 The first cultivation passed on leaving the house was the 
 young cotton field planted in October 1892, on the west side 
 of the ridge, in red to light chocolate loam. It had been 
 planted according to native methods. The plants, though 
 sown very late in the year, ^^'ere \'ery luxuriant, some i foot 
 and even 2 J feet in height. 
 
 The sixty-acre field was also luxuriant enough, but the 
 plants weve in some cases whippy, and there were a good 
 many vacancies. There were pods on the plants, but not 
 so numerous as to make the promise of a 300 lbs. per acre 
 crop an actual certainty. 
 
 In the young cotton field, planted in December and 
 January 1893, the plants were small, but very healthy. 
 
 The sixty-acre field was sown with original American seed. 
 In the newer and younger clearings, Herr Tost had been 
 using his own seed, which he found to be perfectly true and 
 good up to the second year ; but after this it was not reliable. 
 
 The system of cultivation adopted was, after sowing the 
 cotton to obtain three crops, and then — or after the seed of 
 the second year — to cut down all the cotton, or stump it to 
 6 inches from the surface. For example, in sowing the 
 cotton in April or May, it was calculated that one crop would 
 be obtained in that year, viz. in October. In the second year 
 two cro))s were expected, the first in Aj^ril and the second 
 in October. Immcdiatel)- the second crop was gathered the
 
 XIX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ^C^^ 
 
 cotton plants were stumped, and it was expected that the 
 first crop yielded from the renewed shoots would be in the 
 April of the following year. The seed was soaked previous 
 to sowing, in a composition of goats' dung and water, cattle 
 dung not being available. This is the American method. 
 
 Herr Tost's labour was all slave labour, which he hired in 
 Lamu. He had previously paid 3 dollars a month, but he 
 now paid 6 rupees per head (the fixed ratio is, i dollar 
 equals 2^ rupees), half of this going to the owner and half 
 tf) the slave, who was, besides, entitled to food allowance, one 
 kibaba of maize or millet to each worker per day. Herr 
 Tost calculated this cost him from i to 2\ rupees monthly 
 per head, making the total cost of his labour per head (man 
 or woman) from 8 to 8| rupees a month — very much the 
 same rate as on Indian plantations. All his labourers came 
 from Lamu, and he assured me that, if necessary, he could 
 get two hundred men from there, these rates paying the 
 slave-owners better than cultivating for themselves, so that 
 Herr Tost was constantly being asked if he did not want 
 more people. Local labour was apparently very scarce, 
 and not to be relied upon, being all required for local 
 purposes. 
 
 As to the important question of returns, Herr Tost's 
 experience was as follows — 
 
 Concerning the 60-acre field, the stated yield from this in 
 October 1892, on the authority of the clerk, who planted the 
 field and supervised the gathering, was 300 lbs. per acre. 
 Herr Tost said he could guarantee this from his personal 
 experience, having himself obtained 300 lbs. per acre. He 
 estimated the second crop at the beginning of April likewise 
 at 300 lbs. per acre, equal to a total return of 600 lbs. per acre 
 — this estimate being based on the yield of uplands cotton, 
 which gave 700 lbs. per acre of cleaned cotton. 
 
 The out-turn of the Sea Island, Herr Tost estimated on the 
 basis of 300 lbs. cleaned cotton to 900 lbs. seed cotton. He 
 had stored at this time — 
 
 60 to 75 Bales of Sea Island cotton = ... 6500 lbs. 
 6 to 7 ditto Uplands = 700 „
 
 364 TR.WHLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 He had not ginned any, owing to the great expense of 
 cleaning the cotton by manual labour. He possessed one 
 ginning machine, worked with bullock-gear, but the large 
 (lri\iiv^^-whccl required had not arrived at the time of my 
 \isit. 
 
 These expected returns would have been most encouraging, 
 had the}' been based on the actual yield of the whole estate, 
 and not from the out-turn of special fields alone. 
 
 As to the expected yield of 300 lbs. more in April, this 
 might or might not occur, and was still only a possibility, the 
 season hax'ing been an unusually dry one, and detrimental to 
 all cultivation. However, the cotton was good, and I had no 
 doubt that, with care, excellent paying results would be ob- 
 tained. A sample of Sea Island cotton grown at Kipini and 
 sent first to German}- and then to Manchester and Liverpool, 
 was reported upon as " fine cotton from new land, but too 
 fine." 
 
 Concerning expenditure, Herr Tost estimated it roughly at 
 twent}' rupees an acre — plus, of course, cleaning and ginning, 
 baling, transport, and shipping charges. 
 
 For returns he estimated one crop of cotton the first }'ear 
 at 300 lbs. cleaned cotton in October. The second year two 
 crops of 300 lbs. each per acre = 600 lbs. cleaned cotton per 
 acre. 
 
 I now give the experience of Herr Tiede, a German gentle- 
 man residing in Lamu, and at one time British Consular Agent 
 there, who having opened some plantations on the mainland, 
 is qualified to speak with practical knowledge of the subject. 
 Herr Tiede did not expect the yield of Sea Island cotton to 
 exceed 400 lbs. of cleaned cotton per acre. His own experi- 
 ence of its out-turn was that 12 lbs. of Sea Island cotton 
 yielded — 
 
 Lint 4 lbs. 
 
 Seed 7 lbs. 
 
 Refuse ... i lb. 
 
 Before leaving the subject, I wish to call special attention 
 to the very encouraging Broker's Report on a sample of Herr 
 Tost's Sea Island cotton which I picked out at random, and
 
 XIX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 365 
 
 brought home with me. The sample was pronounced " a 
 decided success, very fine staple, a good length and strength ; 
 value, one shilling per lb." 
 
 I spent a pleasant day on the plantation, and Herr Tost 
 was a most courteous host. 
 
 Big game appears to be abundant about here. Lions and 
 leopards are very numerous ; the latter are very fierce and 
 dangerous when attacked, they are also very destructive to 
 poultry. Omari Madi, of Witu, told me that sixty of his hens 
 had been carried off by leopards.
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 KIPINI TO LA:^IU — PATTA ISLAND 
 
 Kipini — The Ozi River — Camp at U'Kanga — Makombagni — Lake M'Pc- 
 katoni — Hindi — Bomani — A Flat Country — Fungu Zombo — Sivatoni — 
 Arura — Wild Cotton— M'Kumbi — Return to the Coast— M'Kanumbi — 
 March to Makowe — Lamu Island— Arrive at Patta Island — The Bajoni 
 — Coir Fibre — The Wa-Siyu Patta — Difficulty in getting away — Grasp- 
 ing Natives. 
 
 The next morning (March 2), Mr. Bird-Thompson accompanied 
 me on a visit to Kipini. 
 
 Kipini is stih a fairly large town with a custom-house, 
 situated on the north bank of the river Ozi at its junction 
 with the sea, and about forty minutes' distance from Herr 
 Test's plantation along the sea-shore, which has a good open 
 white sandy beach. 
 
 The town stands on a promontory with low white sand- 
 hills rising about 50 to 60 feet above the shallow flat sea- 
 shore, the chief characteristics of which are a white sandy 
 soil with low bush, scattered lanky Hypha;ne palms, and a 
 thick growth of mangroves on both sides of the Ozi river. 
 The only exports from Kipini are millet and sim-sim, the 
 trade of the Tana being diverted to Kau through the Belesoni 
 canal. The population is about 800. The few coco-nut 
 clumps in the town were all fine trees, and their appearance 
 should encourage extended cultivation of other trees. I 
 noticed one or two date palms and some silk-cotton trees, 
 and rice growing along the banks of the river. 
 
 Kipini, as I have said, stands on the banks of the river Ozi, 
 and the following sketch-map will assist the reader to take in 
 the description of the surrounding country as seen from the 
 
 366
 
 CH. XX 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 367 
 
 top of the old fort commanding the entrance to the river. 
 The banks of the Ozi are thickly fringed with mangroves, 
 in some places to a width of 300 yards. 
 
 Beyond the further bank of the Ozi, to the south-west, the 
 country consists of a low swampy grass plain (black soil) 
 extending to the Tana river. To the westward, low sand-hills 
 fringe the coast-line, and beyond these are thick Hypha^ne 
 palm woods with undergrowth of scrub stretching inland for 
 
 a distance of about two miles. There is a slight rise from 
 beyond the swampy plain towards the Hypha^ne palm woods, 
 and on this higher land are situated some coco-nut shambas 
 belonging to Kau cultivators. 
 
 The mouth of the Ozi is wide and sandy : there is a bar 
 which can only be crossed at high tide, but once this is passed 
 dhows can go up to Kau at any time, the channel of the river 
 being very deep. The shore on the northern side consists of 
 a white sandy " dune " covered with low thick scrub, and to
 
 ^,68 TRAVELS IN EAST Ai RICA CHAk 
 
 the north-west, looking beyond the curve described by 
 the river before reaching the town, are thick mangrove 
 swamps. 
 
 I walked through the town, which is very straggling, and 
 observed numerous clumps of castor-oil plants growing wild 
 both round the old fort and outside the town. Numerous 
 flocks of goats were grazing all about. 
 
 I returned to Herr Tost's for breakfast, and in the afternoon, 
 after bidding a cordial good-bye to Bird-Thompson, who had so 
 kindly accomi^anied me thus far, and whom I never saw 
 again, I started once more alone for U'Kanga, lying about one 
 and a half hours' march away in a north-east direction, 
 over a flat open plain. The country I passed through was 
 chiefly thick low bush alternating with open patches, dotted 
 over with Hyphsene and dwarf palms, baobabs, guinea-grass, 
 and in one place there was a clearing with some fine stooks of 
 harvested sim-sim, fully 5 feet high. The soil on the whole was 
 an excellent grey loam passing into chocolate, with here and 
 there some coral outcrop. Finally, after crossing some open 
 country evidently once cultivated, I arrived at U'Kanga. This 
 was a small village enclosed by some fine timber trees and 
 scattered mangoes situated on the edge of a hollow from 
 which the water supply is derived. The village is surrounded 
 by a large open plain covered with grass and clumps of dwarf 
 palm, and the area in the immediate vicinity had evidently at 
 one time been much more cultivated. The plain is bounded on 
 the south-east by a low ridge of rounded hillocks. I camped 
 under a large tree with wide-spreading branches much 
 resembling a jack tree, having a very similar bright green leaf 
 with very long stalk. Some wild castor-oil shrubs and arrow- 
 root i^Tacca pinnatifida) were growing round about. 
 
 Next day I proceeded onwards to M'Pekatoni, the ther- 
 mometer readings during the day (at 6 and 1 1 a.m. and at 
 2 and 6 p.m.) being 78', '^6'', 86', and 80° respectively. I 
 noticed on the north-east side of U'Kanga another small 
 shallow swamp or pond, with mango trees round it. 
 
 The countr)^ was as a whole very flat, mostly covered with 
 the usual vegetation, while in the more oj^ien part a good deal 
 of wild arrowroot was growing in thick clumps. In places
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 369 
 
 the aspect was park-like, interspersed with swamps and high 
 feathery grass. Everywhere the soil was of an excellent grey 
 loam. The path now led due north, and little more than 
 half-way, at a place called Makombagni, cultivation began 
 again to appear ; we passed through a plantain shamba, 
 luxuriant mango trees and maize-fields, and by a coco-nut 
 clump of about 200 trees. Wild arrow-root was growing in 
 abundance, and, I was told, forms an article of export to 
 Lamu. In a short time I again came on shambas situated 
 in a low plain : they consisted of coco-nuts, bananas, mangoes, 
 maize, and sweet potato beds. Passing these, I crossed 
 an open plain with an extensive swamp in the centre called 
 Ziwah la Ramu, beyond which there was little variety until 
 I reached M'Pekatoni after three hours' marching. The 
 village is situated on the western shore of M'Pekatoni lake, 
 whence it takes its name. The lake lies in a north-east 
 direction, the eastern portion being at this time dried up, but 
 when full it is said to be fully three miles long by half-a-mile 
 broad. I camped under a grove of mangoes on the western 
 shore, near the village. Rice was growing on the dry margin 
 of the lake ; the hippos did much damage to the crops, and the 
 people had dressed up " scarecrows " and placed them on 
 raised platforms to frighten them away at night. To the 
 east and south-east the country is flat and low, and covered with 
 Hyphaene palms, baobabs, and near the village with mangoes 
 and a few clumps of silk-cotton trees. 
 
 In the afternoon I went right round the lake ; the water — 
 probably supplied by springs — is fresh and good, and lies in a 
 natural basin, the ground sloping down to it on all sides. It 
 narrows considerably to the north-east, where there is a canoe 
 ferry. The banks are fringed with reeds and aquatic grasses, 
 and the soil is a grey sandy loam. On the south-east side the 
 outcrop of coral is frequent ; the sea is said to be about six 
 miles off in a straight line. 
 
 I saw one or two hippo heads above water a little way out, 
 so I crouched down in the high grass, hoping they would 
 come near enough for me to get a shot at them ; after waiting 
 a long time, I tried crawling through the grass to get nearer 
 to them, but they were too wide-awake, and disappeared under 
 
 u u
 
 370 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 water. Returning to the camp, I waited until dusk, and then 
 went Hrst down to the rice-field.s without success ; then tf) the 
 water's edge, where I got a fair front shot at one. He went 
 under at once, turning a complete somersault. The villagers 
 were highly delighted at their enemies being reduced by 
 one. Early next morning, hearing that there were two canoes 
 available, I procured one and punted out into the lake to try for 
 another hippo. One was watching me about 40 yards away; 
 I fired and hit him, and he disappeared with a big splash, but 
 as the top of his head only showed above water, I doubt if I 
 more than wounded him. Then after firing a couple of long 
 shots at another, which I clean missed, I had to land, as time 
 was getting on, and M'Kumbi, my next halting-place, was a 
 good sixteen miles away. 
 
 We got under way at 9 a.m., skirting the lake and 
 wading through the ford, which was about knee-deep. After 
 crossing a portion of the dry bed of the lake the path took a 
 north-west by west direction through thick thorny scrub, 
 interspersed with baobabs, etc. Further on the country became 
 more open, with swamps here and there, and very thick and 
 numerous clumps of dwarf and scattered Hyphrene palms, 
 with an occasional mango tree, the only survival of a former 
 cultivation. The path next descended into a cultivated valley 
 where scattered mangoes, cashew-nut trees, papaw, and small 
 fields of sim-sim, beans, and cassava surrounded the small 
 village of Hindi, which I reached at 10.30 a.m. The general 
 character of the country and vegetation was most luxuriant, 
 and the houses of the village were large and presented quite a 
 comfortable appearance. 
 
 Beyond Hindi the country retained much the same 
 •characteristics, a too minute description of which would only 
 weary the reader. A large field of sim-sim 3^ to 4 feet high 
 bore witness to the fertility of the soil, whilst the numerous 
 mango trees testified to the large area that must have been 
 under cultivation in former times. 
 
 At 11.20 a.m. I reached the small village of Bomani, 
 surrounded by the usual native cultivation, and some fine 
 timber trees called " mtaa." The village was situated in the 
 middle of an open and extensive grass plain, the soil of which
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 371 
 
 was a grey loam of some depth. The people obtained their 
 water supply from a swamp close to the village. 
 
 At 11.50 a.m., after crossing the telegraph-line running 
 from Witu to Lamu, I reached Fungo Zombo, and halted till 
 3 ]xm. The heat being very great made marching in the 
 middle of the day very trying. Since leaving Hindi I had 
 been crossing an extensive grass plain, clearly at one time 
 under cultivation ; the Hypha^ne palms had now almost 
 entirely disappeared. Fungo Zombo, similar in appearance 
 to the two villages just passed, was especially remarkable for 
 the number and size of the fine mango trees. Here also 
 the water supply was obtained from a swamp outside the 
 village. 
 
 Between Fungo Zombo and M'Kumbi I passed two more 
 villages, called Sivatoni and Arura, the path continuing over 
 the same large open plain, with many mango trees, some 
 baobabs, and once again thick clumps of Hyphaene palms on 
 both sides of the way, the grass thick and rich and sometimes 
 with long feathery stalks. The village of Sivatoni, enclosed 
 in a " limbo limbo " fence, possessed two large goat-houses. 
 The water supply was from wells 6 feet deep, and about five 
 minutes' walk away. The soil was grey loam ; and there 
 were some fine silk-cotton trees growing in the village. 
 
 Arura, which I reached at 4.15 p.m., was another small 
 village of cultivators, where I noticed some fine wild cotton 
 plants growing, having a reddish or purple flower and thick 
 stem ; and also some luxuriant castor-oil, a clump of this 
 being fully from 10 to 12 feet high. Hence the country 
 continued open as before, with generally speaking the same 
 characteristics of palm, mango, and baobab, and a similar soil. 
 Glad was I when; at five o'clock, I sighted M'Kumbi from the 
 top of a low ridge, lying a short distance ahead. This was a 
 fortified post established by the Company to watch Jongeni, 
 three hours' march distant to the north-west, and the head- 
 quarters of Fumo Omari, the rebel Sultan of Witu. 
 
 M'Kumbi consisted of a few houses inhabited by the native 
 garrison, with a very comfortable house for the accommodation 
 of the European officer in charge, Mr. Bird-Thompson (then 
 in Witu), the whole surrounded with a very thick thorn
 
 11^- 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 fence. It was a real pleasure to be in a house once more, 
 though what with the numerous fleas which disputed the 
 possession of the house with me, and the singing of the 
 
 LEAF OF WII.IJ COTTON PLANT GROWING IN THE VILLAGE OF ARUKA. 
 
 soldiers outside, my night was rather disturbed, and sleeping 
 in a house was not, I found, the unallo)-ed luxury I had 
 expected it to be.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 373 
 
 Next morning was given up to an examination of the 
 surrounding country. The temperature on March 4 and 5 
 was as follows — 
 
 In the 
 
 Shade. 
 
 
 March 4. 
 
 March 5. 
 
 
 6 a.m. (M'Pekatoni), 76 
 
 6 a.m. (M'Kumbi), 
 
 71 
 
 
 10 a.m. 
 
 81° 
 
 
 I p.m. 
 
 91^ 
 
 6 p.m. (M'Kumbi), 80' 
 
 3 P-m- 
 
 80° 
 
 A shallow river flows round the back of the stockade, and 
 from it a supply of excellent water is obtained. It was then 
 very low, with pools here and there only, but it never dried 
 up entirely. 
 
 Following the river, which flows through an undulating- 
 plain, I found that it gradually grew wider and shallower, 
 until it was lost in a long swamp extending to the north and 
 north-west, which it evidently drains. Looking away to the 
 west and south-west one gazed on the open grassy plain, with 
 its scattered mango trees, Hypha;ne and fan palm clumps ; 
 to the north-west and north-east on thick Hypha^ne palm 
 woods ; to the eastward on a grass plain. A small arm of 
 the swamp ran out to the south-west, ending in a shallow 
 basin, which gradually merged into the surrounding plain. 
 
 Continuing onwards for some time longer over a low flat 
 country, evidently flooded in the wet season, and passing 
 occasional clumps of Borassus palm, I came upon a large 
 dry swamp extending from the south-west to north to north- 
 east. Here I turned back, the small escort I had taken with 
 me being insufficient if we came upon some of the rebel forces 
 of Fumo Omari. 
 
 In retracing my steps I followed a south-east direction 
 through a fine rich country, with greener grass and much 
 thicker undergrowth, the soil being a good light grey loam ; 
 the same characteristics of country appeared to extend to the 
 north-east and east. Game was reported to be very plentiful 
 about here in the wet season. I now came upon a thick 
 palm wood extending up to the M'Kumbi river, from which I 
 emerged close to the stockade. The river here is from 90 to
 
 374 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 lOO feet wide, and its banks are from 3 to 4 feet high. The 
 grass had been burnt and new shoots were springing up 
 vigorous!)', promising good pasturage for cattle. Close by I 
 came upon the bed of another small stream connected with 
 the larger one. 
 
 When back in the stockade I had an interesting conversa- 
 tion with the Akida or native officer in command of the 
 askaris. It appeared that he had been up to Jongeni, and 
 
 m 
 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 ifc^t*^ 
 
 .^-ia.M 
 
 mJlSimt^ fiSs^ 
 
 ■ ■ 'kianfriHKi^-^T^ 
 
 flll^^n^^flHulT^ 
 
 B^BM '^IL'm 
 
 i S^^IS^^^^^HBw^M 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^B - ■bIB 
 
 n 
 
 BORASSUS P.\LMS. 
 
 on my asking him for a description of the country round 
 there, this is what he told me — 
 
 Grass land with mimosa and Hyphxne palms — much the 
 same sort of country, in fact, that I saw to the north of the 
 stockade — extends right up to Jongeni, where thick forest 
 begins. There arc no swamps, but only occasional hollows 
 where rain-water lies. Jongeni appears to be the general 
 name for numerous stockaded \illages scattered about the 
 forest. The soil is dark grey.
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 375 
 
 It was a matter of deep regret to me that the disturbed 
 state of the country prevented me from carrying out my 
 intention of exploring the forest round Jongeni and the 
 whole country lying north of Witu. However, it could not be 
 done. Mr. Rogers, the Company's officer at Lamu, who was in 
 command of the (Indian) police force, declared he could not 
 be responsible for my safety, and with my small number of 
 porters it was useless to attempt it, with the almost certain 
 prospect of falling into Fumo Omari's hands, so I had 
 reluctantly to give up the idea and turn my face southwards. 
 
 I started for M'Kanumbi, about six miles distant, the same 
 afternoon at 3.30 p.m., marching the greater part of the way 
 over a flat grass plain; with the same traces of former cultiva- 
 tion, and the usual growth of Hyphsene palms (many of these 
 lanky from over-tapping for toddy). They became fewer as I 
 proceeded, and were varied by borassus and fan palms, bush, 
 etc., the soil the same light sandy grey loam. About half-way I 
 passed a clump of about fifty mango trees growing close by 
 an apparently deserted village. Beyond, they became more 
 frequent, some by their fine appearance giving evidence of 
 the richness of the soil. 
 
 At 5.15 p.m. I came upon the salt-water creek running up 
 from M'Kanumbi, here about 10 feet wide and fringed with 
 mangroves, but opening out more widely further down. It 
 extends north-east and east, with one bay to the southward. 
 The soil was deep white sand. 
 
 I reached M'Kanumbi at 5.30 p.m. This is but a mere 
 cluster of huts on the grass plain close to the creek, but is of 
 importance, from the fact that it is the outlet of nearly all the 
 produce of the Witu district, and most of the indiarubbcr 
 coming from Jongeni is shipped here for Lamu. 
 
 Observing a fringe of coco-nuts and mangoes on the 
 southern or furthest side the creek, I decided to cross over, 
 for not only was there no cultivation round the village, but no 
 water either, it had to be brought over from the other side. 
 Crossing the creek just as the tide was running up I came 
 upon the village of Kilimani, surrounded by the coco-nuts 
 and mango trees which I had noticed all the way from 
 M'Kanumbi. I camped below some small mango trees on the
 
 376 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 edge of a large shallow pool where the M'Kanumbi people 
 obtain their water supply. This they carry across at low tide 
 on donke}'s' backs in empty kerosene oil tins, which are as 
 much prized by them as valuable bits of old china are by us. 
 It being nearly dark when I arrived, I was not able to 
 notice my surroundings till the following day (March 6), when 
 I found that I was camped in a large open plain surrounded 
 by mango and coco-nut trees, the pool being nearly in the 
 centre. In the wet season this is drained by a small stream. 
 I spent the day examining the neighbouring country, which 
 I found to be flat and fairly well cultivated, although there 
 was a good deal of land abandoned or allowed to lie fallow. 
 Apart from the ordinary ground cultivation I noted many 
 scattered coco-nuts, but there was one luxuriant plantation — 
 the first I had seen since leaving Kipini ; soil fertile, friable 
 grey loam. Several small villages, Moinkanda, Milimani, 
 Makomani, Kavo Kavo, all fairly close together, are scattered 
 around. Cultivation is said to cease at Mapeya, a village 
 lying about six miles to the S.W. From a place called Kitu- 
 gani on the M'Kanumbi creek, the sand-hills of Lamu can be 
 seen quite distinctly. 
 
 Next morning at 6 a.m. I started on my long march 
 towards Lamu, again crossing M'Kanumbi creek, the path 
 beyond winding about to all the points of the compass, but at 
 last going steadily in a X.N.E. direction. 
 
 I reached the small village of Wandamunio at 7.50 a.m., 
 having waded across three salt-water creeks on the way ; the 
 intervening plains were of a sandy nature. 
 
 Wandamunio has but little cultivation surrounding it. 
 There are some bananas, etc., and it boasts of a single coco-nut 
 tree. It is situated on the edge of another creek fringed with 
 thick mangroves, which runs from east to west, and has to be 
 crossed by a very slippery native bridge, as the water is deep, 
 and there is plenty of thick grey mud. It took us over half- 
 an-hour to cross this creek and a mangrove swamp beyond, 
 for the bridge was completely under the water, which reached 
 over one's knees, and several of my porters fell headlong into 
 the creek and had to be fished out with their loads ; luckily 
 my bedding and clothes escaped !
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 377 
 
 At 8.45 a.m. I passed Idio, a small village bearing S.E. on 
 my right hand, and situated lower down on the creek that I 
 had ju.st crossed. A little south of Idio lies the village of 
 Muicarabu, where formerly they used to make salt. 
 
 After leaving Idio I came upon the telegraph-line, which 
 I followed in a N.E. by E. direction over a fiat sandy plain, 
 crossing occasional back-waters — the whole country very flat 
 and low. I passed numerous swamps now dry, which doubt- 
 less flood a great portion of the country in the rains. There 
 were a few scattered mango and baobab trees, and the soil 
 was very sandy. Shortly before reaching Unga, a large and 
 prosperous-looking village (one hour and twenty-five minutes' 
 march from Idio), the country improved in appearance, the 
 land becoming higher with thicker vegetation. 
 
 I reached Unga at 10.10 a.m., and waited till 10.30 to allow 
 the stragglers to come up. Unga is well situated on a creek 
 opposite Lamu Island, and is surrounded by luxuriant mango 
 trees, amongst which I was pleased to notice numerous coco- 
 nuts. The cultivated area was here much larger, and I was 
 particularly struck with the fact that there does not appear to 
 be any break in the cultivation between the N.E. and S.W. 
 monsoon rains, as in the Melindi districts. In many fields 
 which I passed, the sim-sim, beans, etc., planted in the N.E. 
 rains, were only now being harvested, and yet other lands were 
 hoed and some actually sown. Does not this point to a 
 heavier rain-fall, or at least a much earlier one than in the 
 country further to the south ? 
 
 Beyond this the path skirted the sea-shore, with its shallow 
 sandy back-waters and thick mangroves ; on my left the open 
 grass plain continued with here and there patches of cultiva- 
 tion and scattered mango trees. Kilimani, a mere cluster of 
 ten or twelve houses amongst mango trees, and situated on 
 another creek, was reached at 1 1 a.m., and here I halted till 
 2.20 p.m. The water supply was good, both from a well and 
 from a swamp to the north of the village. 
 
 As will be seen from the following diagram, Kilimani lies 
 on the inner edge of a large shallow back-water running up 
 from the southward, as the creeks generally do on this coast. 
 On the same side, and about a mile lower down, is Makowe. to
 
 378 
 
 TKAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 which I shall {presently refer ; a deep thick belt of mangroves 
 fringing the creek to the S. and S.E. towards the sea, on which 
 side the Lamu sand-hills are visible to the S.S.E. On the 
 landward side, to the W.N.W. and N.E., stretches a flat open 
 country, which is very sparsely cultivated. 
 
 At 2. 20 p.m. I resumed my march over the back-water, 
 shortly afterwards passing through Makowe, with its few 
 coco-nut and mango trees, then over a small sandy plain 
 overgrown with scrub, and dotted over with numerous clumps 
 of fan palms Beyond this the path once more led across 
 the sea-creek, ^over which, and through thick mangroves, I 
 continued until 3.15 ]).m., when, to my delight, I reached 
 
 Open Grass PJaz-n. 
 with, scattered .Van^ocs 
 
 the sea-shore, which was low, flat, and sandy. Lamu 
 Island lay opposite, with only a narrow estuary called M'Lango 
 Kipungani between. The telegraph-line from Witu and 
 Mombasa, which I had so frequently passed, is here connected 
 by cable with Lamu, the junction being in two wooden-roofed 
 huts raised above the highest tide level. 
 
 The ferry is also here, and it took me nearly an hour, the 
 ferry-boat being but small, to get all my porters and loads 
 across. We then resumed our march to Lamu town, about an 
 hour's distance from the ferry, passing first through shallow- 
 mangrove swamjjs, and then over several of the low sand-hills 
 I had noticed from the mainland.
 
 
 
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 EAST AFRICA 
 
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 XX 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 379 
 
 The soil was everywhere deep white sand, which seems the 
 characteristic of Lamu Island. The path led through thick 
 groves of coco-nuts extending up to the town, where I 
 arrived at 5.30 p.m. I took up my quarters just outside the 
 town, where the Liwali of Lamu courteously placed a 
 comfortable house with a fine roomy verandah at my disposal. 
 Lamu is, after Mombasa, the chief port on the coast, and is 
 connected with Europe and India as well as Zanzibar by 
 regular lines of steamships. The town is one of the oldest on 
 the coast, and contains 5000 inhabitants ; it is a mass of 
 crowded houses. The island is seven miles long, rising from 
 
 LAMU FOKT. 
 
 the shore into sand-hills from 30 to 250 feet high, and covered 
 with scrub. At the eastern end of the island lies the village of 
 Sheila, the site of a former Portuguese settlement. As will be 
 seen on the map, Manda Island lies to the N.E. of Lamu, from 
 which only a narrow sea channel divides it. With the 
 exception of a few fishing villages on the coast, it is unin- 
 habited, and is chiefly covered with low trees, thick bush, 
 and grassy plains. 
 
 I remained three days in Lamu, starting again on March 
 1 1 for Patta Island, situated to the east of Manda Bay. 
 
 I believe I was the first European in modern times to land
 
 38o TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA char 
 
 on this island, to which I proceeded direct from Lamu by- 
 dhow, my first destination being the town of Paza or Faza. 
 The journey lasted from 7 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. My arrival was 
 so strange an event that the whole town turned out to witness 
 it. Mze Saif, the chief of the place, to whom I brought letters, 
 was, I found, absent on the mainland, but his sons welcomed 
 me, and offered me a house ; however, I preferred my tent, 
 and they escorted me to a coco-nut shamba outside the town 
 where a large, curious crowd surrounded me, and remained, 
 watching my every movement till quite late in the evening. 
 
 Patta Island is fifteen miles long by about five miles wide 
 and surrounded by mangroves. It is very flat, the land never 
 rising more than 50 feet above sea-level. The island is of coral 
 formation, and the soil, so far as I observed it, consisted of a 
 white to grey clayey loam as subsoil, with an upper stratum of 
 grey loam. The walls of the houses of Faza were of the same 
 grey colour. In the coco-nut shamba where I was camped 
 the upper loam was sandy and the outcrop of coral frequent. 
 
 Faza is situated on a tidal creek, navigable for dhows, and 
 thickly fringed with mangroves. The town is so girdled by 
 mangrove swamps as to be practically an island when the tide 
 is high. There are several good coral-stone houses in Faza, 
 which is a fairly large place, but the majority of the houses 
 are built of wattle and mud, with " makouti " (coco-nut thatch) 
 roofs. 
 
 To the westward the town is fringed by mangroves (growing 
 in the sea-creek), and beyond this by thick coco-nuts inter- 
 mingled with Hypha^ne palms. The coco-nuts were thickly 
 planted, and extended southward of the town. 
 
 To the north-west the land was low, with numerous man- 
 groves on the seaward side, and on the land side covered with 
 low bush, baobabs, clumps of Hypha:ne palms and scattered 
 coco-nuts. Dwarf or fan palms were reported to be very 
 numerous on the island, and I understood that mat-bags were 
 largely made, and that a great export trade of these existed 
 with Lamu and Zanzibar. Rope is also made from the fan- 
 palm fibre — perhaps fastenings would be the better word — they 
 are used for tying rafters together, etc. In fact all rope for 
 fastenings is made from this fibre, which is plaited.
 
 XX 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 381 
 
 The chief industry of the place appeared, however, to be the 
 manufacture of coir ro[je. The mode of preparing it consists 
 in soaking the husks in sea-water for three to five months, 
 after which they are beaten out and washed. An ordinary 
 heavy stick is used for beating out the fibre, and this appeared 
 to be the chief occupation of the people here — tapping being 
 heard from almost every house. The cleaning of the fibre is 
 done chiefly by the women, the men making the rope and the 
 fan-palm mat-bags. Clean fibre sold at one dollar a frasila. 
 Only rope ^ is exported, and no coir fibre or copra. The sole 
 use of the nuts commercially is for their husk, the kernels and 
 milk being used for cooking and drinking. On my return to 
 
 Hyphaene Palms 
 and Coconuts 
 
 ^ t "^ 
 HypVisene 1- I 
 
 Pdln\s and 
 
 Coconuts T»f*'' 
 
 -^ SkotcK iMap of FAZA ■ ^ 
 
 England I brought a few native samples with me. The 
 broker's report upon them was as follows — 
 
 " Coil- fibre, poor, dirty, dull — sound value per ton, £\. Coir 
 yarn, poor, dark colour generally, fair make, but somewhat 
 irregular. Sound value per ton, ;^ 13 to ^^"14. — November 9, 
 
 1893." 
 
 Cattle on the island arc scarce and dear, prices ranging 
 from $30 to $40, but sheep and goats, especially the latter, 
 were fairly numerous. 
 
 The inhabitants of Faza and of the north of the island 
 generally are all Bajoni — identical with the Guniahs so often 
 
 ' Coir rope is only made into thin strands in Faza, beint^ twisted into 
 thicker ropes at Lamu.
 
 383 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 referred to ; they are also called Watiku, and claim to have 
 originall)' come from Arabia, and to have colonized all the 
 coast-land extending from Lamu to Port Durnford, and to be 
 descendants of the original builders of the ruined towns 
 scattered along that coast. After the destruction of these, 
 following the Galla invasion, they fled to Patta Island. 
 
 The Bajoni, who are lighter-complexioned than the 
 Swahilis, do not carry swords like the Arabs and Swahilis, 
 but a sharp dagger-like knife with the point fashioned in a 
 peculiar way as if it had been broken off. They are also fond 
 of chewing coffee-beans, but do not drink the infusion. 
 
 My first day on Patta Island was a busy one, what with 
 walks through the town and neighbourhood and receiving the 
 visits of Mze Saif s sons and the elders of the place. 
 
 Doctoring was apparentl)' considered by the Bajoni as 
 pre-eminently the art of a European, and I had a considerable 
 and unexpected practice thrust upon me during the da}'. I 
 had to visit a sick man and then a sick woman, pro- 
 ceeding to their house in regular state, escorted by the sons 
 of Mze Saif and all the elders of the town. After this I went 
 to the baraza, or place of assembly, where I explained the 
 objects of my mission to the chief residents of the town, after- 
 wards holding a levce of apparently all the sick people in 
 Faza — the maladies being chiefly lung and bowel complaints. 
 I should say, judging from the number of ailing people that I 
 saw, that the town is not healthy — the cause being the brackish 
 water and the mangrove swamps surrounding it. The Bajoni 
 are great toddy-drinkers, and I noticed all the H}'phaine palms 
 are regularly tapped for the purpose of obtaining the sap. 
 
 On the same afternoon I left for Kisingitini, a village lying 
 to the north-east of Faza, starting at 4.20 p.m., attended by 
 the Kisingitini head-man, who had been specially sent for, and 
 two Bajoni askaris, Mze Saifs j-oungest son escorting me part 
 of the way. We first crossed on foot the channel by which I 
 had come up in the dhow the day before, the tide now being 
 out. Beyond this the path skirted the sea-shore (white sand 
 with a clayey subsoil and thick mangroves). On the land- 
 ward side there were numerous coco-nuts, thickly planted 
 and intermingled with HyphxMie palms, many of the latter
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 383 
 
 being dead — killed most probably by excessive tapping for 
 toddy. Half-an-hour from Faza I passed the small village of 
 Mabogi in the midst of open flat country covered with low 
 scrub and scattered thick clumps of Hypha^ne palms, and 
 coming a short distance further on to the somewhat larger 
 \-illage of Bajimali, situated on a low mangrove creek and 
 surrounded by a thick fringe of coco-nut and Hyphsene palms. 
 As we drew near Kisingitini the head-man said he must be 
 allowed to go on ahead, for the people would be frightened at 
 the sight of a white man and would run away ! So I stopped 
 to allow him time to prepare the public mind for m}' arrival. 
 
 I arrived at Kisingitini at 5.15 p.m. It is situated on a small 
 open sandy bay to the eastward of the small island of Sidembe. 
 It is fairly large, with some good houses, the mosque being 
 specially noticeable. To the southward the village is sur- 
 rounded by low thorny scrub and the usual palms, and just 
 outside the village are some coco-nuts, with a few papaw 
 trees and castor-oil plants. The occupation of the people is 
 divided between fishing (fish are said to be plentiful), cutting 
 mangrove boritics for export to Lamu and Mombasa, and 
 cultivation. 
 
 All the people turned out to look at me, and I was followed 
 by a crowd in my walk through the village. The Bajoni did 
 not improve on acquaintance ; they seemed very grasping, 
 the head-man particularly so. He pointed out a place for my 
 camp, and distinguished himself by asking for everything he 
 saw ! 
 
 The water from the village well was very brackish — in fact, 
 so detestable that it made me quite ill, and I did not 
 thoroughly recover till I got back to Faza, where I confined 
 myself entirely to the water of green coco-nuts. Midges 
 from the neighbouring mangroves were very troublesome, 
 and made writing quite impossible — being worse in the early 
 morning before the sun got strong. 
 
 I left for Siyu on Sunday morning, March 12, starting at 
 6.20 a.m. in a S.W. by W. direction, crossing again on foot 
 the flat shallow sea-creek, which divides the village of Baji- 
 mali from Kisingitini, the point of land to the N.W. being 
 all thick mangroves. x'\t Bajimali I noticed several heaps of
 
 384 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP, 
 
 coral-stone lime, evidently an article of export, together with 
 piles of fresh-cut mangrove borities. 
 
 At 6.40 a.m. I reached Yabogi, another small village, situ- 
 ated on rising ground on the western end of Bajimali sea- 
 creek, and fringed on the S.E. and south side by mangroves, 
 the plain beyond being covered with low prickly bush^ 
 scattered Hyphcxne, and thick clumps of fan palms. The 
 Hyphcxnes were all tapped. Soil yellow and sandy. 
 
 At 7 a.m. I reached Tundwa, a large and prosperous- 
 looking village, with numerous good houses built of coral- 
 stone, and surrounded by fenced-in gardens. Coral-stone 
 was abundant, and I passed many heaps of freshly-burnt 
 coral-lime. The water supply was good, and appeared 
 abundant. It took me ten minutes to walk through the 
 village, around which luxuriant groves of coco-nuts were 
 growing in a white to yellow sandy soil. 
 
 From Tundwa onwards, excepting one or two mangrove 
 swamps on my left, cultivation continued steadily, the lay of 
 the country being very flat ; coco-nuts were very numerous, 
 and as a rule very thickly planted, often lanky and tapering ; 
 the undergrowth is apparently only cut down periodically, 
 and this, with excessive tapping for toddy, would doubtless 
 account for their unhealthy appearance ; the Hyphrxne palms 
 appeared almost as numerous as the coco-nuts. On the 
 uncultivated portions the ground was covered with thick fan- 
 palm clumps, low mimosas and thorny scrub — the soil every- 
 where being very sandy, in colour white to grey and latterly 
 yellow. Mango trees with an occasional tamarind were also 
 frequent, and I was particularly struck, not only with the 
 number, but the extraordinarily large size of the cashew-nut 
 trees {Anacardium occidcjitalc), the finest I had ever seen ; 
 many of them were as large and luxuriant as mangoes. 
 
 In a coco-nut shamba that I passed I noticed that young 
 plants had been planted to fill up gaps amongst the older 
 trees, which were nearly all lanky and some dying. It is a 
 question whether the death of these trees has been caused by 
 neglect or by excessive tapping for toddy. All the fields 
 were then being cleared in readiness for sowing. 
 
 At 9 a.m. I hailed to allow one of my Bajoni askaris to go
 
 XX 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 385 
 
 on ahead to deliver the letters I was bringing to the Wa-Siyu 
 head-men, and to advise them of my coming. Siyu being 
 now visible in the distance, with a thick fringe of coco-nut 
 trees behind it, I halted under a borassus palm, and whilst 
 resting, several women passed me carrying cut strips of fan* 
 palm leaves, tied into bundles, for making mats and rope. 
 
 After ten minutes' halt I started again for Siyu, which I 
 reached at 9.25 a.m., it having taken me exactly two and a 
 half hours — deducting thirty-five minutes for various halts — • 
 
 SkctrkMap of Siyii 
 
 rnr-tft 
 rrrnt 
 
 
 open Plain wi^ Scrub an 
 scatter^ Hypheene 
 
 to reach the town. Guided by the head-man's messenger, I 
 marched towards a coco-nut plantation outside the town, to 
 reach which I had to cross the sea-creek on which the town is 
 situated. Reaching the shamba I camped under some fine 
 shady mango trees, close to an old stone well, said to have 
 been dug or sunk by the Portuguese. 
 
 The above sketch will assist the reader to follow my 
 description of the town, the dotted line showing my route. 
 
 Siyu, certainly the largest town on Patta Island, is situated 
 
 c c
 
 386 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ciiai-. 
 
 at the end of a narrow sea-creek, the approach to the town 
 being defended by an old stone fort. Koyo, half-an-hour's 
 distance to the west, is the harbour for large dhows, and it is 
 only in the wet season and at high tides that boats and small 
 dhows can come up to the town. This has a considerable 
 population, and I was much struck by its appearance and the 
 size of some of its coral-built houses. 
 
 Siyu is the principal town of the Wa-Siyu, who claim to 
 be of Persian descent, and who also inhabit the mainland 
 opposite Patta Island. They are quite distinct from the 
 Bajoni. This portion of the island is specially noticeable for 
 the large area under coco-nut cultivation, the plantations 
 extending for some considerable distance beyond the town. 
 The extreme lankiness of many of the trees was most 
 probably due to the excessive tappings, for Siyu toddy is 
 quite noted, and is largely exported. The townspeople do 
 not exjaort copra, nor do they use the nuts for any but 
 cooking purposes. 
 
 By this time the head-men of Siyu had arrived to see me, 
 headed by Omari bin Issa ; they were very anxious for me 
 to stay in the town, but I still felt too seedy from drinking 
 the bad water at Kisingitini to see many people that day, 
 and hearing that Patta was not very far away, I resolved to 
 go there at once, promising to stop again at Siyu on my way 
 back. I had a short conversation with the head-men about 
 coco-nut cultivation and export, and pointed out to them 
 the commercial value of the nut, and the profits to be derived 
 by exporting copra and coir fibre. The head-men listened 
 attentively to my remarks, which they promised to consider, 
 and on resuming my journey they escorted me part of the way. 
 
 I started for Patta at 3 p.m. in a westerly direction ; the 
 path skirted the creek, and was fringed with thickl)--planted 
 coco-nuts on both sides. After about two miles I passed 
 the site of an old battle-field called Sikoko wache Amadi, 
 after a Siyu chief who was killed here, and where the Wa- 
 Patta and Wa-Siyu had fought. The creek now opened out 
 widely ; it had a sandy flat bottom, with many low mangroves 
 growing in it, the fringe of coco-nuts still continuing on both 
 sides.
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 387 
 
 At 4.20 p.m. the path turned off from the creek across a 
 grass)' plain with scattered mimosa bush. To the south, as 
 far as I could see, the whole country was covered with a thick 
 mangrove growth. At 4.40 signs of cultivation began once 
 more to appear, and I passed the shambas of Tiramkoni and 
 Kitoka. Formerly the Patta or Pate people had large coco- 
 nut plantations, but these had long since been destroyed in the 
 war times, and now only a few fields of millet are to be seen 
 scattered here and there. At 4.55 I crossed a low ridge with 
 a large coral out-crop, and here obtained a view of Bori, lying 
 about two miles to the north, thickly surrounded with man- 
 groves. Bori is a small harbour belonging to the Pate people. 
 Beyond this ridge the soil improved greatly — a reddish sandy 
 loam with thick mimosa scrub and fan-palm clumps, whilst 
 on a low hill to the left called M'Lango la Siyu, to com- 
 memorate a defeat of the Siyu people, stood the old walls 
 and ruined gateway surrounding the once strongly-fortified 
 capital of the Wa-Patta, which I reached at 5.30 p.m. 
 
 Patta is situated on the banks of a creek running from east 
 to west, and within sight of the sea, and now contains only 
 about 300 people. The soil of the plain surrounding it is a 
 light grey to sandy loam, much intermixed with coral ; goats 
 and sheep are numerous. It was once a large and flourishing 
 town with as many coco-nuts as Siyu, but misfortunes of war 
 have caused its present decay, and the large population that 
 once existed here is either dead or dispersed amongst a few 
 villages in the Witu district near Lake M'Pekatoni. The war 
 arose out of questions of sovereignty claimed by the Sultan 
 of Zanzibar over the Patta people, who were e\'entually de- 
 feated. They then fled to the mainland of W'itu, asserting 
 their independence there. The nearly deserted town pre- 
 sents a most melancholy appearance ; the old stone walls, 
 still in a wonderful state of preservation, bear witness to the 
 former strength of the place, but the Sultan's palace and 
 houses are complete ruins, with old cannon still lying about 
 here and there. The town was originally enclosed within a 
 square, the walls having towers at the four corners. 
 
 I visited the descendant of the once powerful Patta Sultan, 
 by name Amadi bin Sultan Fuma Bakari Nabatian, who
 
 388 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chaf. 
 
 afterwards returned my visit, and brought me a goat — all he 
 had to offer — a gift which I returned with interest. 
 
 The next morning, March 13, I went round the town with 
 Amadi bin Sultan, and remarked that the Patta people culti- 
 vate tobacco in a small way : there were a few fields of it 
 growing. The plant has small leaves and pink blossom. 
 Heaps of coral-lime were placed here and there ready for 
 export to Zanzibar. I observed that the creek runs up 
 beyond the town in a south-west by west direction. 
 
 Returning to Siyu the same day, travelling by the way I 
 had come, I put up this time at the very comfortable house 
 of Omari bin Issa, who gave me a most sumptuous repast. I 
 renewed my conversation with him and several of the elders 
 on the subject of coco-nut, copra, and other matters, and 
 hope that my words have borne good fruit, for there can be 
 no doubt that a large export trade in the bye-products of the 
 coco-nut palm can very easily be developed on Patta Island, 
 whilst the increased value of the trees would go a great way 
 to check the present practice of excessive tapping for toddy, 
 which tends greatly to weaken and kill the trees. 
 
 In the afternoon at 3 p.m. I left for Faza, this time fol- 
 lowing a more direct route, across the creek, through which 
 I was carried by my porters, as it was high tide. On the 
 other side I continued in a N.N.E. direction, and after half- 
 an-hour's march passed by Koyo, the Siyu harbour, the dhows 
 being distinctly seen from the path. 
 
 The sea continued closely on my left less than a quarter of 
 a mile away. The country was well cultivated, mostly with 
 ground produce such as metamah and beans, the land being 
 quite open, and the fields extending far away on my right. 
 The soil was of a light brown to reddish-coloured loam. 
 
 At 4 p.m. I crossed a creek thickly fringed w^ith man- 
 groves, with a low ridge beyond running north-west and south- 
 east, which the path eventually skirted, the top of the ridge 
 and the whole country on my left being fairly well cultivated. 
 Where not cleared, the ground is covered with thick thorny 
 scrub and fan palms. Much the same description of country 
 continued till I got close to the Faza coco-nut cultivation. 
 When passing a hole about 5 feet deep I examined the soil
 
 m
 
 XX TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 389 
 
 formation, which was red sandy loam mixed with sandstone, 
 very liL^ht and friable, the surface loam very sandy. I reached 
 my old camping-place in the coco-nut shamba at 5 p.m., 
 having taken roughly about two hours to tra\el across from 
 Si}'u. 
 
 I was disappointed to hear that a dhow, which had been 
 faithfully promised by Mzc Saif's son, and which ought to have 
 been waiting to take me on to Itembe, had not even been got 
 read)'. I had to resign myself to spending another day in 
 Faza. I was still very seedy, and did not like to touch the 
 water here, so I was reduced to milk and eggs. The next 
 morning I was repeatedly told that the dhow would he 
 ready punctuall}' at three in the afternoon, so I spent the 
 forenoon in visiting the bazaar again, and, with half the 
 village at my heels, calling to see the sick man I had \isitcd 
 before, who was very ill with inflammation of the lungs. I did 
 what I could for him, but I fear he wanted more skilful helj^ 
 and advice than I could give him. 
 
 By 2 p.m. I had got my tent and all my gear packed up, 
 only to discover that, after all, the dhow would not start until 
 the next day. My whole stock of patience was needed not 
 only to meet these various mishaps, but to contend against 
 the grasping, and reall}' at times exasperating, character of 
 the Bajoni people. Young MzeSaif became a great nuisance, 
 wanting everything he saw ; I had also to stop giving medi- 
 cines, as the constant stream of ]:)eople clamouring for them 
 became overwhelming, and I had onl)' a sufficient sup|)l\- 
 for our own needs. 
 
 There was nothing to be done but to re-pitch m)- tent 
 again and hope for better luck to-morrow. 
 
 The thermometer readings this day were as follows — 
 
 Patta, 6 a.m., 76 in the shade. 
 
 Si}'u, 1 1 a.m., 85 
 
 2 p.m., 88 
 
 Faza. 6 p.m., 82 „
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 FROM TATTA ISLAND TO LAMU AND MOMBASA 
 
 Ofif to Itembe— Mze Saif the Bajoni Chief— Hostile Attitude of the Wa- 
 S iyu — Mattaroni— Bajoni Cotton Cultivation — Native Elephant-hunter 
 — His Description of the Unknown Country — The Rainy Season- 
 Renewed Difficulty in getting away — Sail for Wange — Round the 
 Mongoni Creek — The Pokomoni River— An Arduous Day's March — 
 Tangave — M'Gini— Lake Bcrc Bcre — Lamu — A Long Overland Tramp 
 — A New Experience — Magarini once more — Mombasa. 
 
 I WAS up before daylight on the morning of March 15, and 
 after all my gear was packed wc went off at once to find the 
 dhow. No one came to say good-bye, and I cannot say I 
 was sorry ! We marched through the still sleeping town, 
 and the tide being still out we were able to walk a long way 
 through the mangroves towards the dhow, my porters event- 
 uall)^ wading out to it. I went in a small canoe which Mze 
 Saifs son Salim bin Saif, who was accompanying me to 
 Itembe, had got for my use. 
 
 The dhow left at 6.20 a.m., my porters raising a cheer. I 
 think they were as delighted as I was to get away, and had 
 begun to believe that with these constant delays there was a 
 plot to keep us against our will. Passing the point (thickly 
 overgrown with mangroves) to the north-east of Taza, we 
 coasted close by the w^estern side of Sidembe Island, 
 obtaining as we passed a good view of the village of 
 Kisingitini ; we then headed northward for Itembe, the 
 sea being beautifully calm with a favouring breeze, till 
 presently Kwaihu Island, with its low hill, a conspicuous 
 object, 155 feet high, rose in sight on the right, the island 
 a])pearing quite devoid of cultivation. Then Fazi Island 
 
 390
 
 CH. XXI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 391 
 
 appeared close on our left, its small village called N'Dau 
 (not Fazi as given (Mi the maps) plainly visible with its back- 
 ground of Hyphitne palms, and two dhows lying at anchor in 
 front of it. Running past these we entered a creek thickly 
 belted with mangroves, and disembarked at Itembc landing- 
 place at 11.45 <'^-m.,- Itcmbe itself being only five minutes' 
 walk beyond. 
 
 Itembe — the head-quarters on the mainland of Mze Saif, the 
 chief of the Bajoni people — is a village lying on a narrow sea- 
 creek facing the mangrove swamp and surrounded by a flat 
 sandy plain — the cultivation being at some distance. In the 
 distance a ridge of low hills called Mundane is discernible 
 running from east to west. Proceeding to the chief's house 
 to deliver the letters I had brought with me, I was informed 
 that he had left a message requesting me to await his return 
 next morning, when he would give me people to take me 
 wherever I wished. This conduct of Mze Saif's was not very 
 courteous, for knowing I was coming he ought to have been 
 present to receive me, but having no guides I had no option 
 but to await his return. 
 
 Wishing to be as far away as possible from the muddy 
 mangroves I made my camp near some water-holes lying 
 S.S.E. of the village, about 200 yards away. These water- 
 holes were fed from surface springs, the water percolating 
 through the light sandy soil, so I pitched my tent under a 
 small tree close by. 
 
 I took a walk in the afternoon towards the S.S.W., and 
 remarked that the soil in the open country beyond the man- 
 groves was of a very light sandy nature, whitish to gre}', 
 becoming much darker when damp ; it was of great depth, 
 the subsoil being all of a light grey colour. The country was 
 very flat with scattered low thorny scrub and numerous 
 thick clumps of fan palms. The shambas were some little 
 distance from the village ; I noticed one small shamba with a 
 few young coco-nuts just planted, but, with the exception of 
 these, the cultivation was all ground-produce, consisting of 
 " wembe " (raggy), metamah, sim-sim, and a little rice. 
 
 The people here are all Bajoni, with the exception of a few 
 Swahilis,
 
 392 TRAVI-:LS in east AFRICA 
 
 The villa'^re Akida came to tell me in the evening that as 
 Mze Saif was going to burn his shambas he could not now 
 come till the evening of the next day ! 
 
 The thermometer readings that day were — 
 
 Faza, 6 a.m., 76 in the shade. 
 
 Itembe, 2 p.m., 90' „ „ 
 
 „ 4 p.m., 88° 
 
 6 p.m., 82^ 
 
 Small gnats or midges, probably bred in the mangrove 
 swamps, were exceedingly troublesome both in the evenings 
 and mornings — rendering all reading or writing at night 
 almost impossible by their incessant stinging, and continuing 
 in the morning till the sun was well up. 
 
 A letter came next morning from Mze Saif, saying that he 
 would come in this evening, and that all the IVa.ce or head- 
 men of Mattaroni were with him. The Akida, who brought 
 me this news, further mentioned that Mze Saif had from 400 
 to 500 men with him clearing his shambas. I saw the 
 burning of these in the afternoon, and judging from the 
 volume and distance apart of the enormous columns of smoke, 
 the clearings must have been very extensive. The burning 
 had only been done just in time, as a very heavy shower of 
 rain came on shortly afterwards. The shambas were reported 
 to be two hours' distance from Itembe. 
 
 I spent the day in exploring the neighbouring countr\', the 
 characteristics of which ma}' be described as follows — 
 
 To the north and immediately round the town, was chiefl}- 
 open, cleared and burnt land, with man}' fan-palm clumps. 
 To the west, thick thorn-bush with scattered low trees; the 
 soil here though still vcr}^ friable was better in qualit}', and 
 judging from the large shambas being made in that direction, 
 must still further improve, and should be ver}' suitable for the 
 cultivation of coco-nuts, sim-sim, and cotton. Towards the 
 sea the coast is low and ever}'vvhere thickly fringed with man- 
 groves, boritics being largely exiDortcd, 
 
 Speaking of mangroves, I ma}' remark that the wood makes 
 excellent fuel, and coral burnt with it makes excellent lime. 
 
 (jamc, including lions, was reported to be ])lciitiful in the
 
 XXI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 393 
 
 rains, but at present there were only buck and " pah " fa small 
 antelope), both of which were numerous. 
 
 On returning to camp I f(jund Mze Saif had called in my 
 absence and left plent}' of salaams, and a message that he 
 was too tired to return that evening, but would visit me next 
 day ; at what hour was not stated. His young son, the one 
 who had crossed over with me, came to see me in the evening, 
 making himself a great nuisance. Finall}' he wanted a box of 
 cigarettes, which I declined to give him, upon which, to my 
 relief, he went of in a huff. 
 
 The next day (March i/) I at last had an interview with 
 Mze Saif, who came to see me in the morning. He was an 
 old man with a crafty expression of countenance, and is a 
 typical Bajoni. The interview was not satisfactory. My 
 letters to Mze Saif requested him to afford me every facility 
 for visiting this part of the coast, and on the completion of my 
 visit to give me the necessary escort through the country to 
 the south on my wa}' back to Lamu. 
 
 He told me, however, that the Sij-u people on the mainland 
 to the south were at this moment very hostile in their attitude, 
 owing to a quarrel which had arisen between them and Fumo 
 Omari, the rebel Sultan of W'itu ; and that he dared not take 
 the responsibility of sending me through their country, as I 
 might ver}' probabh' be seized as a hostage. He suggested 
 that I should at present only visit Mattaroni, about four miles 
 to the westward, where cotton is cultivated, andthat afterwards 
 he would send me down b}- sea to Wange ; he said that 
 doubtless in a little while ever>-thing would settle down and 
 the country become quite peaceful again, when I could return 
 and go wherever I wished, and that he would be only too glad 
 to help me by ever}- means in his power. Every argument I 
 could bring forward could not shake his resolution ; I was 
 quite helpless, for if Mze Saif would not give me an escort 
 it was useless for me, with my small part)', and onl>' three 
 rifles, to push southward alone, so I had reluctantly to give way 
 for the present, resolving however to return better prepared 
 another time. 
 
 I arranged therefore to go at once to Mattaroni, Mze Saif 
 promising to send two of his men to guide me there,
 
 394 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 It took me an hour and a half to reach Mattaroni, following 
 the zigzag native path winding in and out through creeks 
 and mangrove swamps, with a good deal of wading to be done. 
 The glimpses I got of the country inland showed me a low, flat 
 plain covered with bush and grass, scattered low trees, 
 Hyphaene, mimosa, and one or two baobabs, the soil being a 
 sandy white to yellow. 
 
 Mattaroni is situated on the western side of a line of low 
 sandy hills extending between it and the sea-shore, from which 
 it is only five minutes away. The ridge runs from north to 
 south, extending for half-an-hour's walk beyond the town, 
 and forms a noticeable feature in the surrounding flat 
 landscape. 
 
 The village is small, with not more than sixty to seventy 
 inhabitants ; it is built on a small area of red loam, on which 
 a fine tamarind tree was growing. The walls of the houses are 
 red-coloured, but all the surrounding soil is a white to grey 
 sandy loam, the low ridge.being composed of a dazzling white 
 sand. The water supply is excellent, the water welling up pure 
 and clear through the sand. A well on the outskirts of the 
 village }-ields a brackish water, and is only used for washing. 
 The absence of mangroves and the fine open sandy beach 
 make Mattaroni a very salubrious place — in marked contrast 
 to Itembe with its muddy mangrove swamps. 
 
 The chief cultivation of the people about here is Cotton, 
 which they sell at Lamu to Indian merchants at the rate of 
 S3 a frasila (roughly 3c?'. a lb.). I saw cotton drying in 
 front of many of the houses, and women bus)' occupied in 
 cleaning it with primitive ginning machines, with which they 
 are able to clean one large basketful of lint-cotton a day. 
 Cotton cultivation was reported to extend all the way to 
 Kionga, between which and Mattaroni, nine Bajoni villages 
 were said to exist. 
 
 The same afternoon, accompanied by my two Bajoni guides, 
 I .set off to visit the country round Mattaroni, and more 
 particular])- the cotton shambas which I was very anxious to 
 see. 
 
 To the northward of the village lies a low flat valle)- which 
 becomes a swamp in the wet season ; it is surrounded on all
 
 XXI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 395 
 
 sides by a plain covered with low bush and thick clumps of 
 fan palm. On the right of this swamp, and not very far 
 from the village, I came upon the first cotton shamba, about 
 3 to 4 acres in extent. The cotton bushes had very minute 
 leaves (five-lobed). The flowers were yellow with a purple 
 tinge, the opening pod had three capsules, and the staple 
 of the ripe cotton was short and very strong. The bushes 
 were growing very close together, long and straggling, 
 about 7 feet high, with numerous whippy upright branches 
 with very few leaves then ; this cotton-field was said to be 
 four years old. The soil was a very light grey sandy 
 loam. 
 
 Leaving this shamba we presently passed into thick low 
 thorny bush, amongst which I remarked numerous shrubs 
 bearing green orange-like fruit, becoming yellow when ripe. 
 I had also noticed them growing near Lake Krawa. The 
 Bajoni call the fruit " myhi," and are fond of it. My guides 
 pointed out another fruit-yielding tree, its fruit resembling a 
 miniature pear, the green colour of which turns to a purple 
 when ripe ; they called it " tundukwa." 
 
 We continued for over an hour through this thick low bush 
 (now leafless) in a W.N.W. direction, passing here and 
 there a cotton plant growing wild among the bush. The 
 soil, which at first was very white and sandy with a light 
 yellow subsoil, had latterly become a light grey. Then after 
 going through an old cotton-field, in which the plants had 
 grown into a regular bush tangle fully 6 feet high, I came 
 upon the shambas of the Mattaroni people, where they 
 cultivated metamah, sim-sim, and cotton. 
 
 The method of cotton cultivation adopted by these people 
 is as follows — 
 
 They first open up the land, burn it, and sow metamah — or, 
 as they pronoune it here, " machamah." When this is reaped 
 they sow cotton, which continues on the land untouched for 
 a period of four or five' years. The yield by this time having 
 become greatly reduced, they cut the cotton down and burn it. 
 They do not re-sow the field, but allow the cotton-seed, which 
 lies thick on the ground, and which apparently is not affected 
 by the burning, to spring up again ; this it does as soon as
 
 396 TRAVKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 the rains c(Mnmcncc. This second crop of cotton continues 
 also for a period of three to four years, and when too thick, 
 whippy, and bushy, is cut down and pruned. They then 
 calculate on a further period of two or three years for this 
 crop; so that, roughly speaking, it appears that cotton will stand 
 in the same field— the first time, sown ; the second time, 
 burnt ; and the third time, pruned down — for a good average 
 of ten years. 
 
 They appear to gather the cotton as soon as the heavy 
 rains of both the S. W. and N,E. monsoons have ceased — say 
 twice a year. The old cotton seen by me and stated to be 
 four years old was very bushy and whippy, with but few pods, 
 and I was especially struck with the smallness of the leaves. 
 I passed over a succession of shambas all small in extent, two 
 acres being the greatest size. In one field of. cotton the plants 
 were old and thick-stemmed, and in another were young 
 and only 3 to 4 feet high. The cotton is not topped or 
 pruned^it appears to be its nature to grow up with bushy 
 and whippy branches. The staple is very white and free 
 from stain, and when fully ripe hangs in a festoon from the 
 capsule, from which it is very easily detached. The seeds, 
 however, adhere very firmly to the cotton. Weeding is the 
 only process employed, apart from clearing and sowing the 
 land. 
 
 After gathering, the cotton is simply dried in the sun, and 
 the seeds — which, as just stated, are very tenacious and hard to 
 remove^are cleaned out by means of a small wooden imple- 
 ment, costing one rupee three annas, and called "kitoko"; 
 each house in the village possesses two or three of these. 
 The "kitoko" consists sim|)l}' of two sticks placed in a small 
 frame, and turned in opposite directions by means of a 
 wooden handle at each side. The cotton is passed through 
 the sticks and the seeds drop below ; the cleaned cotton being 
 picked off by the hand as it becomes loosened. As I have 
 already mentioned, it is posiblc to obtain in a day from one 
 of these machines one well-filled basket of lint-cotton. I 
 brought home with me several samples of this cotton, and the 
 following is the valuation made upon it by Messrs. Williarq 
 J^owcr and .Son —
 
 XXI 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 397 
 
 " Description. Price 
 
 No. 2. Native short-stapled, 
 cotton from Mattaroni, 
 coast-land north of 
 Lamu. 
 
 No. 5. Native short-.stapled i],d.\ 
 cotton from Mattaroni, 
 coast-land north of 
 Lamu, cleaned by na- 
 tive ginning-machine. 
 
 Classification. 
 
 Very poor stuff, dull, rough, 
 uneven, and native 
 ginning bad, probably 
 worth 32^. per lb. 
 
 London, N'ovoiibcr 6, 1893." 
 
 Taking into consideration the primitive methods of culti- 
 vation and of preparing the cotton, the above somewhat 
 unfavourable report is hardly to be wondered at ; but being 
 known the faults can be corrected, and given better skill 
 and knowledge, I am confident that better results will be 
 obtained, bearing in mind the suitability of the cotton-plant to 
 the country, and above all the marked similarity of the soil to 
 that described as characteristic of some of the leading North 
 American Cotton States. 
 
 Sim-sim was cultivated to a small extent, one reason given 
 for the comparatively small area under cultivation being that 
 the people were compelled to furnish labour for Mze Saif's 
 shambas ; and when I was there nearly all the men were 
 away thus employed. If the people were free to cultivate for 
 themselves, no doubt a great impetus would be given to 
 agriculture. 
 
 I returned home another way, taking exactly one hour 
 from the last shamba visited to the village, and passing 
 through much the same variety of country : I got back to 
 camp at 7 p.m. The night was a lovely one, and after dinner 
 I climbed up to the top of the ridge above the village, and 
 sat a long time enjoying the cool sea-breeze and watching the 
 waves ; it was such a treat to be on a fine open beach again, 
 without those everlasting mangroves. 
 
 One of the head-men given to me as a guide by Mze Saif 
 was, it appeared, an elephant-hunter by profession, and he had 
 just returned from a successful hunt in the country to the
 
 598 TRAVELS IN EAST AI^RICA chap. 
 
 westward, having managed to kill four elephants. On my 
 questioning him about the country in that direction, this was 
 the account he gave me — 
 
 Bush countr)', with black to grey sandy loam — excellent 
 for cultivation — extends for two days' journey westwards. 
 Then thick forest succeeds, with large trees that quite shade 
 the ground, the undergrowth consisting almost entirely of 
 n'konge aloes, together with the other thick-stemmed variety, 
 with short, sharp -pointed leaves, of which I have already 
 spoken. The- forest extends from Jongeni to the Juba 
 river, and takes fully six days' hard marching to get through. 
 
 The elephant-hunter carries only his gun and a little food, 
 and marches from sunrise to sunset. Calculating therefore 
 his rate of progress at probably over twenty miles a day, the 
 forest must be fully lOO miles in depth ! 
 
 This forest is also said to be very rich in indiarubber ; the 
 Mattaroni people go up in the wet weather to gather it, and, 
 though they do not penetrate far into the forest, it takes them 
 three days to reach the place. 
 
 Beyond this forest is an open plain with low bush and 
 grass, generally burnt in the dry weather either by the 
 Somalis, the Wa-Boni, or the elephant-hunters. This open 
 plain extends for days in every direction, reaching to the 
 Pokomo country on the one side, and the Juba river on the 
 other ; it teems with game of every description. My inform- 
 ant said he saw forty giraffes in one day, and elephants also 
 are very numerous. The plain consists of good soil suitable 
 for shambas. Water, to the man's knowledge, does not 
 exist, except in rain-water holes, and wells near the villages 
 of the Wa-Boni, Gallas, and Somalis, who are the inhabitants 
 of the country. The Gallas live in the forest, in villages of 
 about lOO people, and are prevented by fear of the Somalis 
 from keeping cattle. The Wa-Boni cultivate in small patches 
 near their villages, which, I understand, are not permanent. 
 
 The country between the sea and the forest is reported to 
 be all bush, getting thicker as you proceed, and the soil is 
 light, friable, and good — especially so as you approach the 
 Mundane Hills ; beyond this it is described as black and 
 sandy. Ebony is said to be plentiful in the forest, and large
 
 XXI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 399 
 
 trees are stated to exist. As to aloes, " kikumbe " (the 
 short and sharp-leaved variety), n'konge, and a lartjer kind, 
 probably Sansevieria, are reported as growing in this forest ; 
 the last are said to be the most plentiful. The plants are 
 about 4 feet high, the leaves 37} feet long by 4 inches broad, 
 and afe said to be found in white sandy soil. The soil of 
 the forest is a very friable black loam — " intanga neussi " 
 is the expression, meaning literally If/ack sand ; and it is 
 in this the n'konge and " kikumbe " are most plentiful. The 
 indiarubber vines were described as very plentiful and 
 very thick ; but this product exists principally to the south- 
 ward of a line drawn through the forest from Mattaroni — to 
 the northward, towards the Juba, it is comparatively scarce. 
 One lake, or large swamp, is reputed to exist, situated a 
 good three clays' march from Mattaroni, in a north-easterly 
 direction, at the end of the low hills or ridge of Mundane. 
 In the dry weather it takes an hour to walk round it, and it 
 is said to always contain water to a depth of 4-^ to 5 feet. 
 In the wet season it takes two hours to go round it. This 
 lake is called M'Bawe. 
 
 This man, Bwana Siri by name, had been up to Kismayu 
 overland, and said the Bajoni were to be found nearly up to 
 the Juba river ; his own village, Shakan, being some distance 
 beyond Kionga. 
 
 Next morning, March 18, I visited another cotton shamba 
 just outside the village, in which the plants were young, but 
 as usual growing too close together ; the soil was a very light 
 sandy loam. A heaped-up "kikapu," or basket of cleaned 
 cotton, and another of uncleaned, which I had asked for to 
 take away as samples, were sold to me for half-a-dollar 
 (about \s. 6d.). 
 
 I started back to Itembe the same afternoon ; I liked 
 Mattaroni very much, and was quite sorry to leave it. We 
 returned by the same path by which we had come, but about 
 half-way, the tide being at the flood, we struck off through 
 the bush in order to avoid the mangroves, travelling latterly 
 over the flat plain through bush-mimosa and fan palms. 
 This way was much shorter, and it only took me one hour 
 and twenty minutes to reach my old camping-ground near
 
 400 Travels In East africa chap. 
 
 Itembe, where, what with the midges and a black- bodied 
 insect resembling a flying ant, whose sting was most acute, 
 I passed another rather unpleasant evening. I had to have 
 a green-wood fire made around me, and eat my dinner 
 surrounded with smoke ; the remedy was nearly as bad as 
 the annoyance it was meant to allay. 
 
 There was very heavy rain in the night, and the morning 
 broke dark and threatening, with distant thunder, showing 
 the rainy season had well set in. I noticed that after the 
 night's rain the whole of the white to grey sandy soil had 
 become much darker in colour, the subsoil especially so. 
 
 There was no word yet of the dhow promised to take me 
 to Wange, and after another wretched evening with the 
 insects — made doubly troublesome and lively by the rain — I 
 waited another day with a like result. The setting in of the 
 rains had made the temperature much cooler, as the following 
 thermometer readings will show ; the wind was now blowing 
 from the S.W. 
 
 6 a.m., ^6° in the open, 
 lo a.m., 86" „ „ 
 
 2 p.m., ^y"^ in the shade. 
 6 p.m., 8i" 
 
 I was greatly vexed at this renewed delay about the dhow, 
 and was far from blessing Mze Saif ; my porters came to me 
 in the evening, and said that if I gave the word, they were 
 ready to march southward or anywhere else I ordered ; so on 
 the morning of the third day I sent a message to Mze Saif to 
 say that if the dhow did not arrive that day, I would start 
 early next morning on a march overland to Lamu, and that 
 if an}-thing happened to me the responsibility would be his. 
 This had the desired effect, for it brought the old man hurry- 
 ing up with the news that a big dhow had been sighted, and 
 that it would be in the creek in the evening, so that I could 
 start as early as I w islied the following day. 
 
 The dhow arrived, and I sailed the next morning for 
 Wange ; it had been built at N'Dau, and resembled a Madras 
 masulah boat — the jjlanks being sown together with coir-rope, 
 with another la)-er of ro]je placed o\er each join of the planks.
 
 XXI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 401 
 
 All the Bajoni dhows are also distinguished by their large 
 square sail made of fan-palm matting. 
 
 It took us nearly two hours to beat out of Itembe creek, so 
 that I obtained a good view of Kwaihu Island, with its low hill, 
 bare and brown, bearing east-south-east of Itembe, and of the 
 smaller island of Fazi on the other side. 
 
 Kwaihu Island is entirely composed of low sandy ridges 
 covered with scrub, with four small islets stretching out at its 
 southern end. Fazi Island is reported to be very healthy, 
 and its small village of N'Dau, situated on a white sandy 
 beach, presented quite a picturesque appearance, with its 
 background of low trees and Hypha^ne palms ; dhows are 
 apparently built there. 
 
 I arrived at Wange at 5 p.m., after nine hours' sail. 
 
 Wange is situated on the Mongoni creek, which really 
 might be called a bay. The village itself is a mere cluster of 
 huts, and derives its importance from the house and planta- 
 tion of Herr Denhardt, a German gentleman much connected 
 with Witu and its affairs in former years. Herr Denhardt 
 instructed his overseer to show me every attention, and I 
 stayed for the night at his house, a most comfortable one. 
 
 Beside Sea Island cotton, a large coco-nut plantation had 
 been opened here, which promised so well that it was proposed 
 to extend it. 
 
 Having heard that important letters were awaiting me in 
 Lamu, I postponed inspecting the plantations until my next 
 visit ; but wishing to see as much of this part of the country 
 as I could, I resolved to travel down from here to Lamu over- 
 land, and to make Tangave, situated on the opposite side of 
 the creek, my first halting-place. 
 
 Starting the next morning at 9 a.m. with two guides, we 
 first passed through Wange village, surrounded by banana 
 clumps, and westward of which I was told there was a good 
 deal of cultivation. Our way led along the edge of the sandy 
 creek, belted with thick mangroves, and we shortly afterwards 
 crossed a narrow back-water running in from the larger one, 
 called Pokomoni creek. The landward side was at first fringed 
 by white sandy cliffs, 8 to 10 feet in height, sloping gradually 
 down to the level [)lain, which appeared thickly covered \\'ith 
 
 D p
 
 402 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 low bush and scattered Hyphajne and fan palms, with a grey 
 sandy surface loam and a yellow to red subsoil. After more than 
 an hour's tramp, or a good three miles from Wange, we, to 
 my great relief, came to the end of the mangroves. I called 
 a brief halt, for the guides had been going at a smart pace, 
 and shut in as we were from every breath of wind the heat 
 felt quite stifling. 
 
 It was now ten o'clock, and leaving the creek, which con- 
 tinued in a S.W. and south direction, we struck inland, the 
 path going due north through open forest, with glades of 
 fine short grass and a fertile soil of blackish-grey loam, 
 altogether a good grazing country, and one in which game 
 appeared to be abundant. This fine country was after all 
 only a point of land running into the creek, for at 10.30 a.m. 
 we came upon the creek again, having to slide down a 
 steepish descent of about 1 2 feet to get to the shore ; 
 the land everywhere rising steeply from the creek as we once 
 more proceeded on our way along its flat sandy shore and 
 thick mangroves. Judging from the brief glimpse I had just 
 obtained, this part of the country must be rich and fertile. 
 
 At 11.30 a.m. after another brief halt we started again. 
 The tide being out, we were able to cut off many a long 
 corner, though we had a good many pools to wade through. 
 I noticed numerous tracks of both buffalo and topi, some of 
 the former being so fre.sh that I expected every minute to 
 come upon some of these animals. The mainland on this 
 side alternated between H}'pha,'ne palm forest and open grass 
 glades with thick low bush, but alwa}'s on a higher level than 
 the sea-creek, often rising abruptly with white sandy cliffs 
 7 to 8 feet high, or else low grass ridges. We harl been 
 travelling westward for some time, when at 12.30 the close 
 steamy heat made me call a third halt, for I felt quite done 
 up. However, a couple of biscuits, a drink of water, and 
 half-an-hour's rest quite refreshed me, and starting again at 
 I p.m. I was pleased to see that the guides had begun to 
 turn due .south, and after a .short while we came upon the 
 Pf)komf)ni river, here tidal, and flowing into the Mongoni 
 creek. The ri\-er has a wide berl, and was about 4 to 5 feet 
 dec]). I understand that the name of this ri\er is due to the
 
 KXI TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 403 
 
 fact that the Pokomos were settled here at one time ; the)- 
 are said to have come down from the north (Juba river?) 
 about 300 years ago, probably driven southwards, like the 
 Gallas, by the Somalis. 
 
 On the right bank of the river extends an undulating 
 country, the ridges covered with busli ; we here gladly 
 welcomed the sight of a small rain-water pool, and the 
 opportunity to re-fill our bottles. We then pushed on, follow- 
 ing the course of the winding river, crossing and re-crossing 
 it several times, our direction being S.S.E., until we came 
 out once more on the Mongoni creek, which opened out 
 very widely here. The tide was now coming in, but we 
 succeeded in getting across, the water only coming up to 
 our middles. Leaving the creek finally behind us, Wange 
 lying exactly in a straight line to the eastward across it, 
 we struck off in a S.W. by VV. direction, over a low flat 
 plain, till at 3 p.m. we sighted the ruined village of Tan- 
 gave, the houses all destroyed and deserted, and one solitary 
 coco-nut and a few silk-cotton trees alone remaining. Fumo 
 Omari and his lawless followers were responsible for it all. 
 
 I camped near a water-hole, the- water of which though 
 much discoloured was good. Just above the old village there 
 was also a small swamp. All around lay the open plain, 
 which after the recent rains looked green and luxuriant. 
 Buffaloes and buck, m}^ guides told me, were numerous about 
 here, and this was verified at nightfall by several lions roaring 
 around us all night. It had been a tiring day, for I had left 
 Wange at nine in the morning, and arrived here at 3 p.m., so 
 that, deducting an hour's time lost in halts and crossing the 
 river and creeks, it left about five hours of marching, which 
 at the rate of, say, two and a half miles an hour, gave a total 
 of nearly fifteen miles traversed that day, mostly along 
 mangrove swamps. 
 
 The next morning, March 23, I resumed my march south- 
 ward, my two Wange guides accompanying me. We passed 
 through the old abandoned shambas of Tangave, where a 
 good many bananas were still growing. 
 
 The country, at first park-like with numerous baobabs and 
 a good grey loamy soil, gradual!)' shelved downwards till at
 
 404 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 about two and a half miles from Tangave I found myself 
 amongst mangroves again, and crossed a shallow back-water 
 about 2.'. feet deep, which I had noticed for some time on my 
 right running u\) from the south-east. On its flat, sandy shore 
 were numerous tracks of bcjth lions and buffaloes evidently 
 quite fresh and recent. Be}-ond the creek the land rose to a 
 higher level, forming an open plateau covered with bush, grass, 
 Hyphrene, and fan palms, with a good grey sandy loam. At 
 9.20 a.m. I arrived at M'Gini, six miles distant from Tangave. 
 M'Gini is a large straggling village situated at the mouth 
 of the sea-creek I had crossed higher up, and inhabited by 
 Patta and Lamu people. It was surrounded by some fine 
 coco-nuts and banana clumps and large mango trees. 
 
 Rain appeared to have been plentiful everywhere during 
 the week, and the fields and vegetation were looking green 
 and luxuriant. The shambas of the M'Gini people lie more 
 to the southward, and consist entirely of ground-produce : 
 with the exception of those growing round the village, no 
 coco-nuts appear to be cultivated. 
 
 I took the opportunit}' of the visit of the village elders — all 
 Arab cultivators — to my camp to question them about the 
 country extending to the westward. They told me that there 
 was forest land about four hours' march from here, that it is 
 about six miles in extent, with large trees, and indiarubber 
 plentiful ; beyond it an open plain with bush extending on 
 every side. They assured me that this description could be 
 depended upon. From another source I learnt that about 
 fifteen miles to the north-west there is a swamp with only 
 pools of water in the dry season, but which in the rains forms 
 a lake which has no outlet to the sea, "- and has a tail to it," 
 as my informant expressed it. Game of all sorts, buffaloes, 
 lions, and elephants, was reported numerous to the westward ; 
 on my wa)' here I noticed elephant-tracks in the bush. There 
 were some heavy downpours during the day, the temperature 
 being as follows — 
 
 Tanga\c, 6 a.m., /6 
 
 M'Gini, 10.30 a.m., 88' in the shade. 
 
 4 p.m., 88' 
 
 6 p.m., 82
 
 XXI TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 405 
 
 My tent was pitched under a lar<^e mango tree just outside 
 the village; the wind from the sea was fresh and cool, and I 
 thoroughly enjoyed a quiet day on this breezy open plain 
 after my long sojourn amongst the mangrove swamps. 
 
 I started the next morning at 7 a.m., and it took me a 
 good twenty minutes to cross M'Gini creek ; on the other 
 side there was a fine open stretch of country with cultivation 
 here and there, the natives being busy clearing land and 
 sowing metamah. 
 
 At 7.45 a.m. I reached the village of Masogoni, with some 
 small mango and coco-nut trees growing about the houses, 
 surrounded by open cultivated country with an excellent grey 
 loamy soil. The products cultivated were millet, raggy, beans, 
 and sim-sim ; the absence of coco-nuts being here noticeable. 
 Leaving this cultivated area, the path now led through thick 
 Hyphctne palm woods, open grass glades, baobabs, and thick 
 clumps of fan palms for about three miles or so, when I 
 emerged again on an extensively cultivated country, chiefly 
 metamah fields, in some of which the plants were already 6 
 inches to i foot high; the country was exceedingly flat, with 
 a good friable, loamy soil. Three Swahili villages are situated 
 here, two of them, Hindi and Jipe, lying opposite to each 
 other, w^ith a large swamp or lake called Bere Bcre between 
 them ; whilst the third village, Semandato, is some little 
 distance away at its southern end. 
 
 Bere Bere lake is fringed by reeds and rushes, and its 
 water is fresh and good. There are no crocodiles, but in the 
 northern end, where the water is deep, there are said to be 
 hippo. The surrounding country was all open, and mostly 
 cultivated, these being the Lamu shambas; numerous goats 
 (but no cattle) were grazing about, the short grass providing 
 an excellent pasturage. There were no coco-nuts, and all 
 the mango trees, except some fine large ones near Jipe under 
 which I was camped, were young. Baobabs were numerous, 
 and ever}'where the soil appeared to be excellent. 
 
 In the afternoon I resumed my journey to Lamu, jjroceed- 
 ing northward to Makowe Ferry, some four and a half miles 
 distant. Close to the village of Semandato I passed two small 
 streams, or channels, which run into the lake; one had been
 
 4o6 
 
 TRAVELS I\ EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 dammed up in connection with rice cultivation, for the people 
 from Patta came over to the mainland regularly to plant rice, 
 and this property connection between the people of the island 
 and the Witu country has existed for a long time. 
 
 The country between this and the sea was undulating to 
 flat, with bush and open grass patches. Approaching Makowe 
 village the sand-cliffs of Lamu could be seen distinctly ahead. 
 Passing this village and its small area of cultivation with 
 
 LAMU MAKKKT. 
 
 some fine mango trees near the path, I reached the ferry at 
 4 p.m. It took me an hour to get my men and loads across, 
 and we arrived at the town of Lamu at 6 p.m. Here I found 
 Mr. Rogers, tlie Company's officer, who welcomed me, and 
 made me most comfortable in his house. 
 
 I here found letters awaiting me from the Administrator, 
 instructing me to visit and report on the district of W'asin 
 and the country south of Mombasa ; I was then to return and 
 complete my exploration of the coast-land up to Port Durn-
 
 Xxt TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 407 
 
 ford, and finally visit Kismayu and the runaway-slave settle- 
 ments of Gosha, situated on the Juba river. 
 
 I heard to my dismay that the Company's steamer fiiba 
 in which I had hoped to go down to Mombasa, had left some 
 days before, and as, with the present contrary winds, a jcjurney 
 by dhow would be too long and tedious, there was now 
 nothing to be done but to march down overland ! 
 
 I remained in Lamu for two days, and then started on my 
 long tramp southward, leaving for Kipungani on Monday, 
 March 27, at 7 a.m. After a very tiring march through the 
 deep white sand, passing but very little cultivation — indeed 
 there seems hardly any in the centre of the island — I reached 
 Kipungani with its steep sandy ridges at 9 a.m., and here 
 embarked in a small dhow for Kimbo, which I reached at 
 12.30 p.m. 
 
 Kimbo village is situated at the end of a long winding 
 creek thickly surrounded with mangroves, and as we slowly 
 punted our way up, I thought how well coco-nuts would grow 
 in the rich mucld}' banks of this extensive mangrove swamp. 
 
 The heat was so great that, b\' way of a change, I resolved 
 on a night march to U'Kanga; the announcement delighted 
 my porters. I told them all to get what sleep they could in 
 the afternoon, and that we would start after their evening 
 meal. Accordingi}', at 9 p.m. we started on our way in brilliant 
 moonlight, as bright as day, taking two guides with us from 
 Kimbo. Leaving the village, which has a great many fan 
 palms growing round it in the usual grey loamy soil, after an 
 hour's march, which was wonderfully cool and pleasant, we 
 passed through the cultivated land and houses of the village 
 of Bandani, whence to M'Pekatoni the way led through 
 Hyphaine palm forest, interspersed with open glades, in places 
 cultivated, and some low swamps. We arrived at M'Pekatoni 
 at 11.30 p.m., and halted here for twenty minutes near a 
 water-hole: we could hear the hippo bellowing in the lake. 
 As we resumed our march it became very hard work, since 
 latterly, the moon having disappeared, it became \cr)- dark, 
 and my one lantern did not help us very much. The high 
 grass had completely overgrown the path, and it was very 
 difficult to follow ; we constantly lost it, and, as both the grass
 
 4oS TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 and the uncleri^rowtli were saturated with moisture, we got 
 ch-enched through and through. Frequent halts were neces- 
 sary to allow stragglers to come up, and once .some excite- 
 ment was caused by a deep growl and a rustling ahead, pro- 
 bably due to a leopard. After this little episode all the 
 porters kept up most beautifully ! 
 
 We reached my old camping-ground at U'Kanga at 3 a.m., 
 and as soon as my tent was pitched I had some supper and 
 hot cocoa and went to bed, sleeping till nine in the morning. 
 The same afternoon I left for Kipini, arriving there at 5.15 
 in the evening. 
 
 The temperature during this day was as follows — 
 
 U'Kanga, 10 a.m., 
 12 noon, 
 
 2 p.m., 
 
 3 ,> 
 Kipini, 6 „ 
 
 83 
 
 82 (Heavy rain and thunderstorm) 
 
 88^ 
 81° 
 
 The next day (March 30) much time was wasted in 
 waiting for the ferry-boat to cross the Ozi river, and I passed 
 the time in trying to stalk some hippo in the river. The 
 ferryman could not be found, so I got my porters to launch 
 the boat — and very leaky it was — and we paddled ourselves 
 across. It was nearly ten o'clock by the time every one had 
 crossed and we had started along the sea-shore for the mouth 
 of the Tana river. Marching was very pleasant and easy 
 over the splendid fiat sandy beach, fringed all along by low 
 white sandhills, which were covered with low green vegetation 
 and thick fan-palm clumps. 
 
 We reached the mouth of the Tana river at 5 p.m., having 
 taken six and a half hours, resting one hour on the way, to 
 do the twenty miles from Kipini, 
 
 There were a lot of crocodiles swimming about the river, 
 and I shot a large one while my porters and loads were being 
 ferried across, the ferry-boat being a small canoe only capable 
 of holding six people at a time. I camped on the other side 
 of the river, the banks of which are flat and sand)-. 'I1ic river- 
 water becomes quite fresh and drinkable as soon as the tide 
 has gone out.
 
 XXI 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 411 
 
 On Friday, March 31,1 resumed my marcli, startiiiy; at 5.45 
 a.m. for Marereni, sixteen miles away, where I proposed to 
 camp. We continued over the same fine open sandy beach 
 and low coast up to the Kilifi river, which, Hke the various 
 other creeks passed over lower down, was thickly fringed with 
 mangroves. Arriving at Marereni at i p.m. I camped for the 
 rest of that day, the place being now quite empty of orchel la- 
 weed gatherers. 
 
 THE ADMINISTKAIUR S HOUSE AT KH.IXUINI — MUMB.\SA. 
 
 The temperature this day had been as follows — 6 a.m., yS^ ; 
 I p.m., 86 ; 5 p.m., 85' ; 6 p.m., 83 . 
 
 Saturday nioniiiig, April i. — I started for Gongoni, travel- 
 ling over the well-known path at a great rate, my people 
 being very keen to get home and see their wives and children 
 after their long absence. I am pleased to mention that they 
 had never given me cause for a single complaint from the 
 day we had first started. Reaching Gongoni at eleven o'clock, 
 I remained there till the afternoon, when I set off for Magarini. 
 I found Weaver quite well, and he reported that all had gone 
 on satisfactorily on the shambas.
 
 412 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ( H. \xi 
 
 Various matters detained nie here till April 4. The day 
 before my deijarture fur Mombasa, Weaver shot a wild dog, 
 called by the natives " Uinbzva a mitoni." Our people were 
 in a <^reat state of mind when they heard of it. They said 
 these native dogs, which always hunt in large packs, were so 
 fierce and savage that even lions were afraid of them, that 
 they would be sure to return at night to attack us in revenge 
 for the death of their companion. We laughed at this, but 
 none of our servants would stay near us that night. We were 
 living in a temporary hut outside the village. 
 
 Sure enough, shortly after we had turned in, we heard the 
 brutes howling, at first a long way off, but gradually getting 
 nearer ; we jumped up, and taking our rifles and a lantern ran 
 outside. The wild dogs, about thirty in number, set up a big 
 howhng on seeing us, but, to my relief I must confess, they 
 began to retire into the bush. It was too dark to see them 
 clearly, but they were very close to us at one time. The one 
 Weaver shot was over 2i feet high, with a shaggy, massive 
 head somewhat resembling a hyaena's. 
 
 There was a heavy fall of rain during nearly the whole of 
 this day, amounting to nearly 2\ inches. 
 
 Tuesday, April 4. — After a hearty good-b)'e from Weaver, 
 whom I was not to meet again in Africa, I started for Mombasa, 
 my route being briefly as follows — I camped the first da)' at 
 Melindi; the second day, April 5, at M'Shaka, the temperature 
 during the day being — 6 a.m., '/'^° ; 2 p.m., 86' ; 4 p.m., 82'" ; 
 6 p.m., 80" ; this being an average record for this time of the 
 year. On Thursday, April 6, I reached M'Tondoa, pushing 
 on the following day past Takaungu to the small village of 
 Makonde or Makenda, about five miles beyond. Beyond this 
 I followed the coast-line, travelling over a fine fertile plain, but 
 sparsely cultivated, and passing successively the villages of 
 Kurwitu, Kijipoa, and Shima la Tever. Camping close to the 
 last-named on Saturday, April 8, I reached Mombasa on 
 the afternoon of the following da)', five days after my de- 
 parture from Magarini. I gladl)' accepted the kind offer of 
 Mr. rigott (the Acting Administrator) to put me up at his 
 comfortable house at Kilindini, where, after my rough experi- 
 ences, I .seemed to be in the ver)- midst o{ lu.\ur\- !
 
 ti^Mk^lAMiJSSf^im^]
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 EXPEDITION TO TORT DURNFORD 
 
 A Tedious Delay — A Lion Hunt — Off at last — Organizing my Caravan — 
 German Plantation at Wange — Development of the Country — The 
 Gancla Fly — Indiarubber — A Fine Rice Country — Native Cotton — 
 The Dodori Creek — A Gadfly — The Dodori River — A Lovely Country 
 — The Mundane Hills — Vaas — A Flooded Land — Camping in the 
 Rainy Season — An Important Conference. 
 
 On arrival at Mombasa, I learnt that the steamer Jitba was 
 daily expected from Zanzibar, as she had to take up stores and 
 material to the Company's station at Kismayu. This was an 
 opportunity not to be missed, so I decided to travel back in her 
 to Lamu, and from there to start for the Port Durnford portion 
 of the coast, and when that was explored, to return and carry 
 out the remainder of my instructions by reporting on the district 
 of Wasin. Day after day, however, passed without a sign 
 of \\\c^ Juba, first owing to a slight breakdown of her machinery, 
 then from inability to take in her stores, on account of the 
 Arab New Year festivities ; and as each reported new date of 
 her sailing followed quickly in succession, I never felt sure of 
 ha\ing sufficient time to carry out my inspection of the 
 southern districts. It was not until the first week in May that 
 I finally sailed for Lamu. 
 
 Whilst waiting in Mombasa I had the unusual experience of 
 joining in a lion hunt. The track of two lions having been 
 reported one morning close outside the town, Messrs. Jenner 
 and Hobley, two of the Company's officials, and myself went 
 out after them. After crawling through the bush for several 
 hours, wc came upon one lion, which Hobley fired at and 
 wounded. The beast went off into the bush with a roar, and 
 
 415
 
 4i6 
 
 TRA\'EL.S IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 darkness compelled us to give up following him further for 
 that da)'. After my departure, these two gentlemen continued 
 the hunt, and had a most exciting time with the same animal. 
 The native hunters had marked him down in a thick clump of 
 bush, and Ilobley getting up to him first, fired and broke his 
 jaw. He turned round to charge, when Jenner fired, and the 
 lion then came straight at him, rose, and fell dead almost on 
 the top of him, his claws actually tearing his coat-sleeve — a 
 narrow shave ! 
 
 I arrived at Lamu on May lo, after an exceptionally stormy 
 passage, and set about at once organizing my ivipedinienta. 
 
 MARKET STREET, MOMBASA. 
 
 porters, and supply of food, and the making of these arrange- 
 ments took up several days. On May i6 I was read}- to 
 start, having sent off my porters and loads the day before in a 
 dhow to Wangc. 
 
 M)' caravan, as the /t'rj'cw;/^:'/ of an expedition is termed in 
 Africa, was composed as follows — 
 
 II Askaris or soldiers, including one cor]K)ral. 
 26 Porters. 
 I Head-man (m)- trusty Dumgu). 
 I Interpreter. 
 
 3 Servants, including cook and cook-bo)-. (In all, 42 
 {persons.)
 
 XXII 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 417 
 
 The larger number of porters taken on this expedition was 
 owing to the fact of having to carry a supply of food for 
 ever>^body with me, as we should not be able to procure it on 
 the mainland. Besides the askaris, eight of the porters were 
 armed, so that I commanded a force of nineteen guns. 
 
 Mr. Rogers very kindly offered to take me to Wange, my 
 starting-point, in the Company's steam launch, and the tide 
 serving at 4 a.m., we were up at three o'clock, leaving at 4.30 
 a.m. The Liwali of Lamu, who knew the channel thoroughly. 
 
 A STKEET IN LAMU. 
 
 piloted the launch himself We arrived at Wange at 8.30, 
 landing at 9 a.m. ; Rogers and the Liwali returned home 
 after breakfast. I was to meet them both again at Itembe, 
 where we were to have a conference with Mze Saif and arrange 
 the further details of my journey to Port Durnford. 
 
 Having mustered my people, I sent them off to the village 
 of M'Kauoni, where I proposed camping, and I remained 
 behind to visit the plantation of Herr Denhardt, a short 
 description of which may prove of interest. 
 
 E E
 
 4i8 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 The estate is situated on a flat table-land bordering the sea, 
 with a few hollows here and there, these lower-lying portions 
 being dc\oted to rice culti\ation — the soil everywhere being 
 of a grey friable loam. The chief products were cotton and 
 coco-nuts, the first having been culti\'ated for the last four years 
 only. The cotton crop after gathering had been sent to Lamu, 
 and cleaned there by native " kitokos." The variety culti- 
 vated at present — after various experiments with other kinds 
 — was Sea Island, in respect to which the American system 
 had so far been followed, viz. that of uprooting entirely after 
 one year. I have already quoted Herr Tiede's opinion (Herr 
 Tiede being Herr Denhardt's partner in the estate), as to the 
 estimated yield of Sea Island per acre, that it will be the same 
 as in America, viz. 400 lbs., equal to one bale of lint-cotton. 
 The proprietors were also experimenting as to the difference 
 between an annual crop after the American plan, and one 
 yielded by pruned cotton ; the overseer showed me a small 
 field of one-year cotton which had been cut down two and a 
 half months ago, and close to which a similar plot had been 
 sown with fresh seed. The results of this experiment should 
 be very interesting. Close by, another portion of the estate 
 had been sown with Egyptian cotton-seed, which had just 
 germinated. 
 
 Proceeding next to the coco-nut plantation, I was pleased 
 to see the luxuriant and robust appearance of the trees, the 
 oldest of which were said to be six years old, the others 
 ranging from five to four years. New land was being cleared for 
 this cultivation, which it was proposed to largely extend, a 
 large number of young plants being available. The labour 
 required was obtained from Lamu. 
 
 Tobacco had also been tried and found to do well ; but it 
 had to be given up, for want of skilled labour. Whilst on this 
 subject, it may be interesting to give the results of Herr Tiede's 
 experience with this product. 
 
 He found that for the first growing of tobacco in new forest 
 land the soil was too rich, the leaf being too coarse and 
 strongly flavoured: he therefore thought a lighter soil was best. 
 
 He had tried Havana, Shiraz, and Sumatra seed, and spoke 
 in equally favourable terms of all three ; he had tried to
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 419 
 
 produce a superior leaf for the outer wrapper of cigars, but 
 owing- to a want of skilled labour he found a difficulty in 
 getting the leaf properly cured. The fact of European planters 
 beginning to settle in this portion of the country is a most 
 hopeful and encouraging sign, and certain to prove of the 
 greatest advantage; first, by calling attention to the undoubted 
 capabilities of the country, for I understand that Wange cotton 
 has not only been most favourably reported upon, but that 
 the quantities shipped to Europe have realized exceedingly 
 good prices. Secondly, by calling native attention to the 
 desirability of cultivating the coco-nut on the mainland, 
 which is as well adapted to it as are the islands of Patta and 
 Lamu, where alone it is grown at present. With Europeans 
 ready to purchase its various bye-products, the natives would 
 very quickly realize all the advantages that would accrue from 
 its cultivation, and its rapid and extended development would 
 then be only a question of time. 
 
 Certainly the establishment of a syndicate on this coast, 
 working somewhat on the lines adopted on an Indian indigo 
 farm — distributing cotton-seed, buyihg the produce and 
 shipping it to Europe — should prove remunerative, and more 
 so when it could combine these operations with the cul- 
 tivation of plantations of its own. As long as labour is 
 scarce on the coast, supplying seed to head-men, who would 
 induce their people to cultivate it, and purchasing the produce 
 in the manner suggested, would be the best course to 
 adopt. 
 
 Questioning the overseer as to the number of cattle to be 
 found here, he informed me that the Ganda fly (referred to 
 in my notes on Witu) was reported to exist up to Itembe, 
 and that consequently neither cattle nor donkeys thrived, 
 
 I started for M'Kauoni, three miles from Wange, at 3 p.m., 
 passing into thick bush, which continued for some distance 
 after I had left the plantation. Further on, the country may 
 be described as forest with open grass glades; large trees were 
 rare and of small girth. The lay of the country was very flat 
 and in places low : water-holes were frequent, and I had to 
 wade through many of them. Gradually the country, evidently 
 at one time under cultivation, became more open, the soil the
 
 420 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 usual grey loam till I arrived at M'Kauoni, a village inhabited 
 by Wa-Siyu. The pecjplc only live here during the cultivating 
 and harvest seasons, they then return to Siyu. The largest 
 shamba here belonged to Omari bin Issa, at whose house I 
 stayed at Siyu. 
 
 I was received with great courtesy by the IVase (head-men), 
 but could obtain but little information as to the country 
 inland, which was stated to be all forest, but at what distance 
 
 MV POKTEKS. 
 
 it commenced was not known. Here the cultivation was all 
 grain produce, rice, metamah, and sim-sim, which were grown 
 in large quantities. The harvested grain is sent to VVange, 
 and thence shipped to Siyu. 
 
 Indiarubber, I was told, is obtained from the inland forest, 
 but not by the village people, who are cultivators only ; 
 gatherers coming up in small numbers for the special purpose 
 of collecting it. The rubber is as a rule sent to Kiongwe,
 
 XXII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 421 
 
 which is situated, as the crow flics, three miles away on the 
 Dodori creek, but the villagers of M'Tapa, about a mile off, 
 are greater rubber collectors. 
 
 It rained nearly all night, and I started off next morning at 
 6.25 for M'Tapa, wading knee-deep nearly the whole way 
 through extensive and luxuriant rice-fields, extending on every 
 side over the large flat plain, which, except for the Hyphaene 
 palms scattered here and there, reminded me more of India 
 than an)'thing I had yet seen. Coming next to the shambas 
 of M'Tapa, chiefly producing maize and millet, I especially 
 noticed a small patch of native cotton. They told me that 
 they were growing the cotton as an experiment, and had got 
 the seed from Siyu, but where it originally came from they 
 could not tell. The plants were stated to be a year old and 
 were regular shrubs, most luxuriant and healthy ; the bright 
 yellow flowers growing in numerous small clusters. 
 
 The small village was just beyond, the inhabitants all 
 Wa-Siyu, for I was now well in the Siyu country. They collect 
 rubber, which they send to Kiongwe. The Waze came out to 
 receive me, but I only halted here for a few minutes, and 
 passed on to Shimbwe. 
 
 Shimbwe, situated on a back-water running in from the 
 larger bay which I have named the Dodori creek, contained 
 only twelve inhabitants at the time, of my \'isit. The people 
 of. M'Tapa formerly resided here, but moved to their present 
 village as more convenient for cultivating purposes ; but all 
 their harvested grain is sent to Shimbwe to be shipped to Siyu. 
 An Indian or Banyan from Siyu had a shop here ; he made 
 his principal quarters on the mainland, moving from village 
 to \-illage to purchase rubber and ivory. 
 
 I continued along the shore of the mangrove-fringed creek 
 over a flat swampy belt of sand, and about a mile from 
 Shimbwe reached another Wa-Siyu village, called Kiongwe, on 
 the creek, at the foot of a low hill. I camped here under a 
 large mango tree on the outskirts of the village, where I was 
 presently visited by the elders. All the information I obtained 
 of the immediate interior was very conflicting ; for here I was 
 told that they did not collect rubber, but the M'Tapa people 
 did, and that the latter obtained it from the big forest at the
 
 422 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 back — the only rubber they ^ot themselves was brought by the 
 Wa-Boni, who exchanged it for grain. 
 
 I took the op]:)ortunity, after this short march, to drill my 
 men in the afternoon, dividing the askaris and armed porters 
 into two bodies, one under the command of the corporal, the 
 other under the interpreter Rashid, who spoke English very 
 well, and proved himself a most willing and useful man. 
 
 The temperature this day was — 6 a.m., 74' ; 10 a.m., 84" ; 
 4 p.m., 81'' ; 6 p.m., 79°. Weather fine. 
 
 This country round Kiongwe is open and flat, fan-palm 
 clumps being very numerous. The village is divided from the 
 creek by flat ground and a thick fringe of mangroves growing 
 in oozy mud. 
 
 The next morning, May 19, I had my people ferried 
 across the creek to Kilimandaro. The creek is here fulh' half- 
 a-mile wide, and very deep, the sea swell being distinctly felt ; 
 it took me half-an-hour to cross, and we landed on the other 
 side on a more open shore. Kilimandaro is not visible from 
 the water, being situated about a quarter of a mile inland at 
 the foot of a low hill. The population were all Watiku or 
 Bajoni, between whom and the Wa-Siyu the creek appeared to 
 be the boundary ; the Si}'u people had a village at Dodori 
 long ago, but it is now all in ruins. South of Kilimandaro 
 and likewi.se on the creek are two more villages, M'Peia and 
 Tondo, inhabited by Bajoni. I merely passed through 
 Kilimandaro village, the Waze greeting me as I passed, and 
 went on to Dodori, reported to be an hour's distance away ; a 
 low, hilly ridge, which I ascertained to be a continuation of the 
 Mundane range, bearing somewhat to the right of the line of 
 march. 
 
 The way led at first over undulating low ridges, chiefly 
 grass, where I especially noted the richness of the soil — a rich 
 black loam : in the intervening valleys the rain-water was lying 
 in pools along the path. As we gradually neared the creek, 
 mangroves again apj^eared. All these mangrove swamps and 
 flat creeks struck me as being well adapted for coco-nut 
 cultivation, and I trust will, at no distant date, be so utilized ; 
 but the natives arc quite ignorant' of the fact that coco-nuts 
 thrive well in sca-watcr swamps. Continuing along the man-
 
 XXII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 42; 
 
 grove creek, which had sandy inlets here and there, I eventually 
 came to higher ground, covered with thick bush and grass, and 
 after crossing over the low ridge I reached Dodori village, 
 situated on a small knoll, surrounded by a branch of the creek, 
 50 to 60 yards wide, through which I had to wade. 
 
 My arrival created some consternation : the people did not 
 know what to make of my large caravan, with askaris, etc. 
 Presently, however, after I had camped, the elders came tome 
 and said that a letter had come about five days ago from Mzc 
 Saif, mentioning that a European was coming up, and telling 
 them to show him every attention. 
 
 From these head-men I learned that the large forest was at 
 three hours' distance from the town ; they did not know how 
 far it extended westward, but it was a great distance ; as far, 
 they said, as a ten days' march. Indiarubber was said to be 
 plentiful and largely gathered by the people, who knew the 
 forest more immediately adjacent to the village very well, as 
 they lived in it for days when collecting rubber. This is of the 
 white variety only, and the salt-water process was the sole one 
 in use. The only inhabitants of the forest, they told me, are 
 the Wa-Boni, who come down to buy food, as they do not 
 cultivate. Game of all descriptions, especially elephants, was 
 reported as very numerous, hunters coming here from Lamu to 
 shoot them. 
 
 Aloes are said to exist in the forest, as well as " n'konge." 
 A leaf of the former, growing near the town, was brought to 
 show me — of the same variety of aloe that I ha\-e mentioned 
 and described before. 
 
 In the afternoon I started with the object of visiting the 
 creek, and, if possible, a river, reported to be beyond, flowing 
 into it. After leaving the town and crossing a low ridge, 
 I came upon the creek, which here opened out widely, but was 
 interrupted by too many mangroves for navigation, Dodori 
 being the furthest point to which dhows can come up. It 
 was surrounded by low, thick bush, and the shores showed 
 numerous traces of hippo : I heard several snorting a short 
 distance away. The river was said to flow in some little 
 distance above, but it was too dark to proceed further that day. 
 On m)' way back to camp I overtook an indiarubber gatherer
 
 424 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 returninj^ with about 25 lbs. of freshly-collected rubber 
 made up into the usual balls. 
 
 A nasty gadfly, with longitudinal stripes on its grey body 
 and a long sharp proboscis, is very prevalent about here. 
 
 I set off early the next morning for a further exploration 
 of the country to the N.W. of Dodori. Having got to the end 
 of the creek, which extends fully three miles beyond the town, 
 I found myself in an open grassy, swampy country bounded on 
 my right by a low ridge, from the top of which I obtained my 
 first view of the reported river winding in the open and flat 
 grass country beyond, with no conspicuous landmark as far as 
 the eye could reach. It is a fine pastoral country, and doubtless 
 swarming with game, though the ground at present was so 
 saturated with moisture that the animals had probably retreated 
 to higher and drier spots. The soil was a dark, rich, grej' 
 loam. 
 
 From another point of the ridge I obtained a second \iew 
 of the river, the vicinity of which was a regular swamp ; one 
 large pool I especially noted. The river was not wide, but 
 was said to flow some distance through the interior, in the 
 direction of which nothing was to be seen but the same flat 
 grass plain and scattered clumps of bush. From this point I 
 struck off to the eastward, at first through the same open 
 grass countr}', ever}'where so saturated that the water lay in 
 the lower spots or depressions to a foot in depth. There was 
 a universal growth of rich grass, but as I proceeded the 
 growth of the bush became thicker, and most luxuriant ; there 
 were also fair numbers of large trees with a small leaf, greatly 
 resembling tamarinds. I continued through this country 
 keeping to the north-east, and gradually describing a semi- 
 circle round Dodori. I had also intended striking into the 
 reported forest, but my visit to the river did not leave me 
 sufficient time this day ; accordingly, I returned towards 
 Dodori, passing through numberless low swamps which were 
 now completely flooded. The country on my way back 
 jjresented the same luxuriant appearance as before ; it was 
 park-like, large trees being interspersed with bush, which, 
 with the rich green grass and numerous water-pools, made up 
 a really beautiful auvl striking landscape.
 
 XXII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 425 
 
 Just before coming to a small stream, which meandered 
 through the flat country, a large wild cycad was pointed out 
 to me with an enormous pineapple-shaped fruit, which the 
 Wa-Boni are said to eat. I presently struck the path used by 
 the indiarubber gatherers in going up country, and returned 
 to Dodori, having been absent four hours. I was much 
 impressed with the great possibilities of the country for rice 
 cultivation on an extensive scale, and probably in the higher 
 portions for ground-nuts as well ; whilst the upper portions of 
 the creek promised exceedingly well for the successful culti- 
 vation of coco-nuts. My guide was an elephant-hunter, and 
 in the course of the da}' we had sc\-eral times passed recent 
 tracks of these animals. 
 
 On inquiring my best way to Itembc, where I was to meet 
 Mr. Rogers; I found that the onl}' wa}- from here was through 
 Vaas, another Bajoni village on the coast, so I arranged to 
 start for this place next day. The temperature during the 
 day was — 6 a.m., 73^ ; i p.m., .SoT ; 2 p.m., 81" ; 4 p.m., 80"; 
 6 p.m., "jG" . There were heav}- showers of rain throughout 
 the day. 
 
 Next day (May 21) I started at 6.30 a.m. in a S.E. direc- 
 tion, over a low-lying swamp}' plain with a grey loam}' soil, 
 through thick bush and H}'phaine palms, passing through a 
 fine patch of rice on the wa}'. It was a dark stormy 
 morning, with sharp scuds of rain, and in passing through 
 some thick bush, we suddenl}^ heard a leopard growling quite 
 close to the path, but the covert was much too thick to go 
 after him. About a couple of miles from Dodori I came 
 upon the Mundane range, running in a west to east direction. 
 This I crossed at an elevation of 250 to 300 feet, finding 
 extensive metamah cultivation on the ridge as well as down 
 the opposite slope : the soil was a sandy white with a reddish 
 subsoil, the poorer top soil being, no doubt, caused by wash. 
 From here I had a good view of Kiongwe and the Kiliman- 
 daro hills, and of the country between me and the creek — all 
 low bush and swamps. 
 
 On the opposite, or S.E. side of the hills, extended a low 
 plain with extensive metamah cultivation. The shambas 
 were more or less extensive blocks cut out of the thick low
 
 426 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP, 
 
 bush, and on their outskirts elephant tracks were numerous. 
 Lcavin<^ these, tlic patli entered the dense k)\v bush which 
 covered the whole of the plain. This part would prove an 
 excellent coco-nut and ground-nut country, judging from 
 the grey loamy soil, the rich nature of which is proved by the 
 bush growth. The j)ath, terribly winding, was greatly over- 
 grown, and this made progress very difficult and trying for 
 the porters ; in many places wc had to crawl on our hands 
 
 MY PORTERS — A HALT ON THE WAY. 
 
 and knees and push the loads before us, and frequent halts 
 were necessary to allow the stragglers to come up. At 10.15 
 a.m. we emerged from this thick bush, which it had taken us 
 over an hour and a half to get through, into a more open 
 country with Hyphnene and fan-palm clumps, the lay of the 
 land being very flat and low, and well suited for rice cultiva- 
 tion, swampy hollows being frequent. After another mile or 
 so, the sight of mangroves ahead showed me that I had 
 reached the sea, and at 1 1 a.m. I crossed a flat sand)- back-
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 427 
 
 water, and continued over a poor and flat country, having on 
 the seaward side a thick fringe of mangroves and sea-creeks, 
 the Mundane range on my left being again visible in the 
 distance. 
 
 I reached Vaas at 2 p.m., after a fourteen-mile march. I 
 found it was quite a new town or large village, having only 
 been built the previous year, and many of the houses were 
 still unfinished. There is communication by sea with Faza, 
 and the inhabitants are all Watiku or Bajoni. I camped 
 outside the town in some small bush, pitching my tent under 
 a small tree. Cultivation round the village — which is on the 
 very edge of the creek, here thickly surrounded by mangroves — 
 is almost nil, the shambas, where rice is chiefly cultivated, 
 being further inland. All the Waze came to visit me, and from 
 them I learnt that there is thick forest at about three hours' 
 distance inland from the town ; but from my late experience 
 of the country near Dodori I am inclined to believe that this 
 term forest really means thick bush. They also said that the 
 Wa-Boni come down to trade, bringing rubber with them, but 
 during the rainy season they cannot cross the Dodori river, 
 which floods the country beyond the Mundane hills. I had a 
 somewhat disturbed night here, a big dance accompanied b}- 
 the beating of several big drums going on most of the night ; 
 whether this was in honour of my arrival I am unable to 
 say ! 
 
 Itembe I found was only some six miles awa}', and I pro- 
 ceeded there the next day, the intervening country round 
 about being knee-deep in water — an open plain with a distant 
 background of low bush, the path skirting the sea-shore, 
 which was flat and low, and fringed with a continuous thick 
 belt of mangroves. 
 
 Itembe itself was now simply a quagmire, all the countr}' 
 round about being under water, and I found my old camping- 
 ground a regular swamp, so I had to go elsewhere. All the 
 people were complaining of the excessive rain, their crops 
 being all under water ; it was still pouring, and camping out 
 was not exactly pleasant, the wind and rain driving in every- 
 where. Some of my people found refuge in the village 
 houses, the others built themselves little huts of grass and
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 branches. Heavy squalls of wind and rain continued more or 
 less during the night, and to save my tent from collapse, I 
 had to jump up more than once to drive in the tent-pegs, 
 which the force of the wind had dragged out of the ground. 
 On waking up the next morning, May 23, I found the camp a 
 complete swamp, and a depth of 3 or 4 inches of water inside 
 m)- tent ! 
 
 CAMP AT ITEMBE. 
 
 Mr. Rogers and the Liwali of Lamu, though expected 
 the day before, had not yet arrived, so after waiting three days 
 and constantly shifting m}' tent from one quagmire to another, I 
 at last, on the 26th, for the sake of my men's health, mo^•ed 
 my quarters to Mattaroni. 
 
 The following thermometer readings from May 23 to 
 26 inclusive will show the marked fall of the temperature 
 aloncr this coast during the wet season — ■
 
 XXII, TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 429 
 
 74^ 
 
 7f 
 
 72' 
 
 81" 
 
 78^ 
 
 80° 
 
 80^ 
 
 78^' 
 
 72^ 
 
 85^ 
 
 76^^ 
 
 72' 
 
 May 23 May 24 May 25 May 26 
 6 a.m. 75^ 
 
 10 a.m. 85'' 
 
 4 P-m- 79 
 
 6 p.m. 79" 
 
 Soon after my arival at Mattaroni, a Watiku messenger 
 came in from Itembe to report the arrival of Mr. Rogers and 
 the LiwaH in the steam launch. The heavy rain prevented 
 my going back at once, but I sent word that I would return 
 early next day. I started back for Itembe the first thing in 
 the morning, wading through the low-lying plain, now one 
 sheet of water, from 2 to 4 feet deep in places. I found 
 Rogers, who had been unavoidably detained, and the Liwali 
 of Lamu established in Mze Saif 's house, Mze Saif having 
 also come with them ; they had picked him up at Faza on 
 their way here. I was very pleased to see Rogers again, and 
 after breakfast we held an important conference with Mze 
 Saif as to my proposed journey. 
 
 I told Mze Saif that I was desirous of proceeding to Port 
 Durnford, and from thence striking inland with a view to 
 finding this reported large forest in the interior. He replied 
 that "he and all he had " were at my disposal, and offered me 
 as guide the same Bajoni elephant-hunter, Bwana Siri, whom 
 I had had before. This man, on being sent for, declared his 
 willingness to take me up to Port Durnford and thence 
 inland to the forest as far as I wished to go, but he added 
 that he feared that a tribe of Wa-Galla living in this forest 
 might cause trouble. I told him my object was a peaceful 
 one, and promised that I should always do my best to avoid 
 trouble with any native tribes we might come across. 
 
 As a further security for the good-will of the Watiku, whom 
 we might meet further north, and that they might know that 
 I was travelling as Mze Saif's guest, and with his support, 
 that chief agreed to send his brother with me as far as Shakan 
 — beyond which he would not go, as there were no villages 
 further on. Porters were to be supplied to me, where required 
 to carry our food supplies, etc., and Mze Saif said his brother 
 would start that very day for Rubu by sea to make the
 
 430 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA ch. xxii 
 
 necessary arrangements. All this seemed most satisfactory. 
 My further supplies of rice and dried shark's flesh for my 
 j:)ortcrs had all arrived, and I had also received five more 
 rifles, bringing up my number of guns to twenty-four. 
 
 Everything being thus settled, I bade farewell to the Liwali 
 of Lamu and Mze Saif, and after a hearty shake of the hand 
 with Rogers, I waded back again to Mattaroni, to start next 
 morning for the unknown country to the north.
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 JOURNEY TO PORT DURNFORD, C07ltmucd^ST\KT FOR THE 
 
 INTERIOR 
 
 To Parts Unknown — Bajoni Villages — Rubu — Mohamed bin Saif — 
 Cotton Cultivation — Homwe — A Unique Event— Difficult Marching— 
 Kionga — An Object of Curiosity — Shakan — An Unexpected Delay — 
 Ras Kiambone Wells — Ancient Ruins —Gome la Hekwa — A Rocky 
 Coast — The Cape of the Pillar — An Alarming Report — Shakalasia^ 
 The Dhow Ashore— Port Durnford — Shauris with the Natives — I 
 march Inland. 
 
 I STARTED from Mattaroni at 7 a.m. on May 28, 1893, the 
 path at first skirting the open sea-shore over low white sandy 
 ridges covered with thick clumps of fan palm. This con- 
 tinued for the distance of a mile to the small village of Shwe, 
 situated close to the sea, mangroves being again met with 
 here. There was no cultivation around this village ; the 
 shambas were some distance inland, where the people culti- 
 vated metamah and cotton, the latter being of the same 
 description as that grown at Mattaroni. After obtaining a 
 fresh guide as arranged with Mze Saif, we continued our way, 
 skirting the mangrove-fringed edges of a deep and narrow 
 sea-creek running parallel to the coast to the north-east of 
 the village, the land side terminating in a steep ridge 8 to 9 
 feet high covered with thick bush, the soil being a light 
 friable chocolate or reddish loam. I shortly afterwards 
 reached a second Watiku village called Vundene, about three- 
 quarters of a mile from Shwe, which it much resembled, also 
 having its shambas inland. The path presently left the sea- 
 shore, crossing a white sandy flat covered with thick fan palms, 
 into thick bush with a reddish-yellow friable soil, on emerging 
 
 43'
 
 432 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 from which I came upon a third village, called Simambaya 
 Sendeni, about three miles beyond Vundene. 
 
 This was the largest village I had yet come to, and 
 possessed a stone mosque. The village is situated on rising 
 ground close to the sea, with a harbour or landing-place for 
 dhows. The walls of the houses were plastered with bright 
 red earth, and the village had a prosperous look. The people 
 owned neither cattle nor donkeys, owing to the prevalence 
 of the Ganda fly ; they had, however, flocks of goats, which 
 
 they purchased from the Somalis. There were some fine 
 tamarind trees and a few lanky tapering coco-nuts in the 
 village, which the people informed me were not tapped for 
 " tembu," as their appearance at first led me to suppose ; the 
 chief products cultivated here are millet and cotton. 
 
 Leaving this village, which the people told me I was the 
 first white man to pass through, I arrived about a mile further 
 on at the village of M'Swakini, divided from Sendeni by 
 dense thick bush, amongst which I noticed many umbrella-
 
 XXIII 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 433 
 
 shaped mimosas. The ground was of a deep red colour, an 
 evidence of iron in the soil, and in places there was a good 
 deal of coral outcrop. In the small cultivated area round 
 the village I observed a tobacco patch and some castor-oil 
 plants. 
 
 Hence onwards the way led uninterruptedly over an 
 undulating country covered with dense bush, chiefly umbrella- 
 shaped mimosa, growing so thickly together as to form a 
 green arch overhead, the soil a rich deep chocolate loam. 
 
 This continued till I reached the large village of Rubu. As 
 the crow flies it is about six miles from Mattaroni, but owing 
 to the windings of the path and the slow progress made by 
 my caravan, it had taken me three and a half hours to reach. 
 
 Mohamed bin Saif, the brother of Mze Saif, who had arrived 
 here with my further supplies of rice and shark's flesh the 
 evening before, came out to meet me accompanied by the 
 elders of the town, and escorted me to a large baobab tree 
 under which I camped. I had a second visit from Mohamed 
 bin Saif in the afternoon, and paid him for the loads brought 
 
 F !■'
 
 434 
 
 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 up froin Itcmbc. I thought it a bad sign that one of these 
 should .dread)' be missing. I said nothing, and accepted his 
 explanation that one of the Itembe people must have stolen 
 it, and entertained him to the best of my ability with tea, 
 biscuits, jam, and cigarettes. He left in the evening by dhow 
 for Kionga, sleeping that night on Simambaya Island, and 
 taking the loads on with him. He expressed his desire before 
 
 MOHAMED BIN SAIF. 
 
 leaving that I should pass by his village of Homw(l% and this 
 I promised to do on the morrow. 
 
 Rubu, the largest village I had come to yet, is built on the 
 -sea, the island of Simambaya lying opposite and forming a 
 natural harbour, thick mangroves fringing its muddy shore. 
 The people I found most friendly and very communicative. 
 Their water supj)!)' is poor and scanty, and they have to send 
 to Vundene for it in the dry season. 
 
 The Ganda fly is prevalent here also, consequentl)- the 
 people possess no cattle, but tlicre appeared to be numbers
 
 XXIII TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 435 
 
 of sheep and goats. Wa-Galla and Wa-Boni come down to 
 trade, but the chief intercourse with the interior is at Kionga. 
 An extensive cotton cultivation is reported to exist here, 
 much larger than at Mattaroni, the lint-cotton and cotton- 
 seed (used for feeding cattle) being shipped to Lamu. 
 
 Cotton cultivation is said to cease beyond this. Other 
 cultivation consists of millet, sim-sim, etc., and a good deal 
 of beans ; little maize appears to be grown. The castor-oil 
 plant grows wild, and there were a few coco-nuts growing 
 in the village ; the people told me they had planted others, 
 but they had died, most probably from want of care. Besides 
 coco-nuts, there were many Hypha^ne palms growing about. 
 The soil is good, being remarkably friable and porous ; 
 the people said that it dries up at once after rain. I found it 
 generally varied from red to a chocolate-coloured loam ; the 
 mud walls of the houses are of a bright red. The vegetation 
 everywhere is wonderfully luxuriant. 
 
 Bwani Siri, the head guide, came to me in the e\cning to 
 ask my permission to take on his brother, who lives here, with 
 us. I willingly assented, and gave him some money to leave 
 with his family during his absence. Ever since leaving 
 Kiongwe I had been drilling my people dail}- on the chance 
 of trouble ahead. 
 
 The temperature this day was at — 
 
 6 a.m. 
 
 76= 
 
 Showery. 
 
 1 1 a.m. 
 
 82° 
 
 Fine. 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 78^ 
 
 Showery. 
 
 4 p.m. 
 
 76- 
 
 Fine. 
 
 6 p.m. 
 
 78' 
 
 Rain at night, 
 
 Early on the morning of the 29th I resumed my march 
 to Homwe as arranged — guided by Bwana Siri and his 
 brother — at first through the usual thick bush, then over flat, 
 grassy, low-lying land, and finally across a mangrove swamp, 
 through which we waded to reach a low wooded ridge right 
 ahead. Ascending it, I found myself on a flat plateau or 
 table-land covered with dense bush, with a good deal of 
 guinea-grass growing in the undergrowth, the soil here being 
 a rich grey friable loam.
 
 436 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap 
 
 Looking over the surrounding country from this higher 
 elevation, the thick bush seemed to extend as far as coukl be 
 seen in every direction. 
 
 As I proceeded, the ridge gradually shelved down to the 
 plain, and I continued wading through a scries of swamjis — 
 often knee-deep in water — these swamps being generally^ in 
 hollows surrounded by thick dense bush. Emerging from 
 it at last I came upon some large open shambas of ground- 
 nuts and sim-sim, the plain here being bounded on the north- 
 west by a low, wooded ridge about a quarter of a mile away. 
 These field.s form part of the cultivation of Homwe, and 
 belong to Mze Saif, Homwe village being just opposite on 
 the edge of another swamp, which, although it dries up in 
 the hot season, yields a constant supply of water from wells 
 sunk in its bed. In this village is the residence of Mohamed 
 bin Saif, and it is about six miles in a straight line from 
 Rubu. 
 
 After a short halt, the march was resumed through the 
 thick bush, the soil being a chocolate loam. I was walking 
 ahead of my porters, but the guides begged me not to do so, 
 but to follow behind, so that the people in the next villages 
 might be warned, and prepared for the unique event of the 
 visit of a white man ! 
 
 After continuing for some distance through the bush, here 
 and there more open, we emerged upon another cleared and 
 cultivated area, consisting chiefly of young sim-sim averaging 
 6 to 12 inches high, the soil again a grey friable loam and the 
 lay of the land very flat ; the low wooded ridge still continued 
 about a quarter of a mile away on my left. From some 
 gently undulating country further on I obtained a distant 
 view of the sea far away on my right, whilst straight ahead 
 lay another native village surrounded by a fairly large 
 cultivated area, chiefly sim-sim, but with a few rice-fields 
 also, the soil being a fine red to chocolate loam with a very 
 friable red subsoil. 
 
 This village was called Mambore, and is about two miles 
 distant from Homwe, fairly large and prosperous-looking, 
 with the walls of the houses plastered with bright red earth. 
 I here noticed two young coco-nut trees, very carefully
 
 XXIII TRAVELS Ix\ EAST AFRICA 437 
 
 fenced and protected, growing in front of one of the houses. 
 The Waze and nearly all the village were waiting to see me 
 when I arrived, this time at the very tail of my caravan, and 
 I became the object of a good deal of curiosity, and, I hope, 
 admiration ! 
 
 Bidding good-bye to the Mambore people, we re-entered the 
 everlasting bush, occasionally passing a good deal of previously 
 cultivated land, the soil of grey loam with a friable chocolate- 
 coloured subsoil. 
 
 The re-appearance of mangroves on my right showed 
 that the path had again come close to the sea, or more 
 probably a sea-creek running inland ; passing these the path 
 again led through the thick bush, the overgrown condition 
 of the path making our progress very slow and difficult, so 
 that I was obliged at last to set four askaris to cut and clear 
 ithe path ahead for the porters. From here my progress 
 'onward was through much the same description of countr)', 
 thick dense bush containing many large umbrella-shaped 
 mimosas, the path now and again skirting a sea-creek 
 with thick mangroves, till at i p.m. I at last came out on the 
 flat white sandy, man grove- fringed sea-shore, which I followed 
 till at last I noticed ahead the white stone pillar of an Arab 
 tomb. We arrived at Kionga at 1.25 p.m., having taken 
 seven hours to accomplish the eighteen miles from Rubu. 
 
 Kionga, which may be described as a small town, is, I 
 suppose, the most important place on this coast north of 
 Patta Island. It is situated on an open white sandy beach 
 sheltered by two islands, one of which, named Kiongawani 
 (literally the island of Kionga), is situated almost in front of 
 the town, so that it protects it from the sea, and forms a good 
 anchorage for dhows — one being there at the time of m}^ 
 visit. The population are Watiku, this being the name which 
 they bear on the mainland. 
 
 Trade is carried on with the Somalis in both cattle and 
 goats, which are driven down overland from the north ; there 
 were from fifteen to twenty Somalis in the town at the time 
 of my arrival, while two of that tribe had travelled up with my 
 caravan from Rubu. 
 
 The chief cultivation carried on here, besides a little maize,
 
 438 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AERICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 apjjcar.s to be i'aL;t,f)'. There are also some healthy coco-nut 
 trees t^rouincj inside the town. I was told, on the authority 
 of Mohamed bin Saif, who had arrived with my loads of rice 
 that morning, that this was the first fine day they had had for 
 forty days ; there is said to be a heavier rain-fall here than at 
 Lamu, but the ground is much drier and absorbs the moisture 
 more quickly. 
 
 
 KIONGA BAY. 
 
 The extreme curiosity of the people was a great nuisance. 
 I camped a little outside the town on purpose to avoid them, 
 but even here I was followed by a large crowd, watching with 
 interest the various preparations for forming my camp, and 
 some Somalis were highly offended because the askari on 
 guard would not permit them to enter my tent while I was 
 having my breakfast. Kionga was infested by a plague of 
 innumerable flies, attracted by the decomposition of heaps
 
 Jixiil TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 439 
 
 of cowrie shells, which are gathered here from the sea in 
 large numbers and form an article of export. The flies 
 swarmed everywhere and settled on everything )'ou touched 
 or ate. The whole place was black with them, and they 
 crawled all over one's face and hands and were an awful 
 nuisance. 
 
 In the afternoon Mohamed bin Saif, accompanied by the 
 Waze and leading people of the town, about thirty in number, 
 came to pay their respects, and brought a sheep as an offering. 
 I gave them some very sweet tea, which they drank in turn 
 out of my two iron cups, as well as sweet biscuits and 
 cigarettes, and I also presented Mohamed bin Saif with a 
 suit of thick tweed clothes. When these people had departed 
 I had a long talk with Mohamed bin Saif, at which Bwana 
 Siri the guide was present. I discovered that I should have 
 to depend mainly upon myself for the future, being now told 
 that I could not get any porters here to carry my surplus 
 loads, and it was suggested that I should send them by sea in 
 a dhow. Mohamed bin Saif in telling me this apparently 
 considered that he had done all that could possibly be 
 expected of him. I strongly protested, repeating for his 
 benefit all that his brother had promised to do for me at 
 Itembe. However, porters I could not get, so it was eventually 
 arranged, after considerable arguing and trouble on my part, 
 that a small dhow, which could only carry about thirty loads 
 at a time, should bring up our surplus food stores from here 
 to Port Durnford by instalments, I agreeing to pay the iiaossa, 
 or captain, sixteen rupees for each trip. I resolved to remain 
 here another day to re-arrange the loads, and leave what was 
 not immediately wanted, with one of my askaris in charge, to 
 be brought up later by the dhow. 
 
 I endeavoured in the course of the day to buy some tobacco 
 for my porters, but could only obtain a small quantity, which 
 was very dear. Tobacco, I was informed, was grown at Itembe, 
 and they also imported it from Patta Island. 
 
 The following day, May 30, I spent in getting my loads into 
 order, and re-packing those that were to be left behind for 
 the dhow's next journey : there were thirty-four loads of rice 
 and some other stores. In strolling through the town in the
 
 440 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 aftcfiioon Mohamed bin Saif pointed out a white pillar on 
 Kiongawani Island, which marked the place where an English 
 officer was buried, and which had been erected by the orders 
 of Seyd l^argash, Sultan of Zanzibar. 
 
 It appears that two officers, accompanied by an interpreter, 
 had landed here from a man-of-war ; one of them, whose name 
 is said to have been " Simba " (Lyon or Seymour ?), had been 
 killed by the spear-thrust of a Bajoni. The man-of-war had 
 
 afterwards returned and landed a party of blue-jackets, who 
 had burnt the town and cut down all the coco-nut trees. The 
 Sultan had ordered Mohamed bin Saif to bring the murderer 
 down to Zanzibar, where he was eventually tried, and I believe 
 executed. 
 
 In the evening I had a parade of all my askaris and armed 
 porters, serving out twenty rounds apiece to the porters and 
 forty to the askaris, and making them responsible for every 
 cartridge received.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 441 
 
 I annex thermometer readings for this day- 
 
 6 a.m. ... 73' 
 
 2 p.m. ... 80' 
 
 4 p.m. . . . 78' 
 
 6 p.m. . . . 78 
 
 Fine. 
 
 I resumed my march to Port Durnford next day at 7 a.m. 
 in pouring rain, Mohamed bin Saif, the Waze, and a large 
 crowd of people coming to see me off I dispensed with 
 Mohamed's stipulated attendance to Shakan, as I found it 
 was only about an hour's distance away. We went along 
 the sea-shore, which may be described as flat and low, with 
 occasional coral rocks at times forming headlands. I observed 
 many people gathering cowrie shells a long way out in the 
 shallow water, the breakers being a quarter of a mile 
 or more away. Reaching Shakan, which was the home of 
 my guide Bwana Siri, I halted my porters on the beach 
 whilst I went to his house to meet the village elders, to whom 
 I showed Mze Saifs letter. They took it away to read, 
 returning shortly afterwards with a sheep, which they begged 
 me to accept, as I was the first white man to enter their 
 village; I gave them a money present in return. 
 
 Shakan much resembled the Watiku villages already passed, 
 and contained about two hundred inhabitants. The houses, as 
 at Kionga, were thatched with uiakiiti (coco-nut leaf), which 
 is imported from Faza. The people were very anxious to 
 call my attention to their want of good wells, and begged me 
 to report the matter to the authorities, as their water supply 
 was very limited, and gave out entirely in the dry season. 
 They are then obliged to send to the wells at Ras Kiambone 
 for water, which they bring back in canoes. There were 
 some old wells in the village, built or dug a long time ago, 
 but the water was brackish and undrinkable. 
 
 More cowries are said to be obtained here than even at 
 Kionga, and this fact most probably accounts for the position 
 of the village. Small canoes can ply in all weathers in the 
 still water, or lagoon, which is formed behind the breakers by 
 the numerous coral islets characteristic of this coast. Cotton 
 was said to be cultivated here, thus contradicting what had
 
 44^ 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA cyAP. 
 
 been told me at Rubu, viz. that this product was not grown 
 north of Kionga. 
 
 Having halted at Shakan for about an hour, I resumed my 
 march along the sea-shore, which was bounded by white sandy 
 cliffs about 20 feet high; scattered coral islets forming a line of 
 breakers about a quarter of a mile out at sea. We passed 
 quantities of sea-weed, which accumulates inside the breakers 
 and is heaped up in large masses on the shore. 
 
 On coming to a low point or cape running out into the sea, 
 with about five islets extending beyond it, the guides, who 
 were ahead, stopped the porters ; on asking the reason why, I 
 was informed that we should have to wait until the dhow 
 which had sailed from Kionga at daylight arrived here. As 
 the vessel would have to wait for high tide to pass between 
 the headland and the nearest island, and even then there 
 would be barely enough water to float her, the loads would 
 have to be taken out and carried across by land, Mohamed 
 bin Saif might have warned me of this, but he let me go off 
 without a word. 
 
 I sent Bwana Siri's brother back at once to Shakan with 
 some money to get fifteen or twenty people from the Waze 
 there, and with orders to stop with the askari on board to see 
 the dhow re-loaded, and then to come on with her afterwards. 
 
 I resumed my march, crossing the low headland which is 
 situated some ten miles on this side of Kionga, and called 
 locally Ras Kiambone — the " Dick's Head " of the Admiralty 
 charts — and found myself on the border of an extensive grass 
 plain bounded in the distance with thick bush ; the soil grey 
 loam, with large coral rocks scattered here and there, often 
 10 feet high. I halted at a water-hole about half-way across, 
 where we met a party of five elephant-hunters returning from 
 an unsuccessful expedition; they said the country was too 
 flooded to do anything — pleasant news for me ! 
 
 This water-hole, or spring, as it should be more correctly 
 described, is said never to fail, and is the place from whence the 
 Shakan people obtain their dry season's water supply. It is a 
 noted halting-place for elephant-hunters and others travelling 
 along this coast. 
 
 Leaving the headland, and proceeding for about three-
 
 XXIII 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 443 
 
 quarters of a mile along a very rocky coral sea-shore, I came 
 upon a high stone pillar and a ruined mosque and tombs, 
 then a little further on I found more ruins, and about a mile 
 beyond still more. These last included an old stone archway, 
 evidently the remains of one of those old towns which were 
 destroyed by the Galla invasion, but of which these scattered 
 ruins remain to bear witness to the large population — settlers 
 from Arabia, Persia, and India — that once inhabited this 
 coast. Their architecture, appearance, and the frequent 
 
 HIGH STONE PILLAK NORTH OF KAS KIAMBONE. 
 
 adornment of the mosques, and often of the tombs, with the 
 fine celader china, and even in some cases with Persian en- 
 caustic tiles, bearing on their face the name of the founder and 
 the date when the mosque was built, often as far back as 650 
 years ago, prove not only their great antiquity, but the com- 
 paratively high state of civilization that must have existed 
 amongst this now forgotten race. 
 
 F"rom the glimpse I obtained here and there over the low 
 white sandy ridges which terminate the coast-line, the interior
 
 444 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA CHAP. 
 
 appeared to consist of low undulating ridges with intervening 
 hollows clothed with thick bush, while further away there 
 ajjpcared to be forest. Continuing steadily along the beach, 
 I observed a high headland in front, and the guides striking 
 inland towards it to avoid a bay lying between, we travelled 
 over some steep ridges, and reached the foot of the peak at 
 3 p.m. This rocky headland, named by the Watiku, Gome la 
 Hekwa — the same probably as the "Sherwood Point" of the 
 Admiralty charts — forms a very conspicuous object, standing 
 out as it does abruptly from the surrounding flat coast ; it is 
 situated about twenty miles from Kionga. 
 
 The guides wished me to halt on the beach to the leeward 
 of the rock, but I decided to camp on the landward side 
 nearer to the water-pool said to exist here. On inspection this 
 proved to be only a pool formed by rain-water in a hollow of 
 the ground. I climbed up to the top of the rock, and obtained 
 a good view of the country inland, which appeared to be flat 
 and covered with thick bush. I afterwards had a dip in the 
 sea, which I enjoyed very much after my tiring march, for 
 we had been travelling steadily, with but brief intervals of 
 rest and no food or water, since we left Kionga. My porters 
 thoroughly enjoyed the two sheep given to me at Kionga 
 and Shakan, which I presented to them as a change from 
 their dried shark and rice diet. I put a night guard on from 
 to-day, two men to be relieved every two hours. The night 
 passed without incident, and the steady sea-breeze made it 
 beautifully cool and pleasant. 
 
 Next morning, June i, at 7 a.m. we continued onward 
 along the shore — here with steep white sandy ridges from 
 20 to 30 feet high — coming about a mile further on to a 
 rugged rocky peak covered with short grass and low scrub, 
 across which we had to scramble, as the waves dashed right 
 up to the foot of it. From this peak I got another good view 
 of the interior — a'^flat country covered as far as the eye could 
 see with dense bush. The peak continued along the coast 
 for some distance, forming a high rocky ridge overhanging 
 the sea, and in crossing it the guides jj(Mnted out a small cave 
 and camping-ground of elephant-hunters with a rain-water 
 pool clo.se by.
 
 XXIII 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 445 
 
 Descending we crossed another flat point of land beyond, 
 covered with thick bush and grass, amongst which I noticed 
 some SiVisevieria gnincensis growing in a good red chocolate 
 loam ; nearer the sea the soil changes to grey sand, the white 
 sandy ridge facing the sea still continuing, but much lower. 
 
 For the next hour I travelled along the shore past much 
 coral rock and deep sandy bays, which the tide being out 
 enabled us to cross, passing another rain-water pool called 
 
 MY CARAVAN ON THE MARCH TO PORT DURNFORD. 
 
 Kombara Bala. The careful way in which the locality and 
 position of these various pools is marked and recognized, 
 shows how scarce the water supply of this portion of the 
 coast must be, yet the numerous towns once existing here is 
 proof that at one time the supply must have been plentiful 
 enough, and that it doubtless would be again if required. 
 
 At lo a.m. we had to strike inland again to avoid a low 
 rocky headland running out to sea called Ras M'Narani, or 
 the Cape of the Pillar, so called from the large broken pillar
 
 446 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 or column lying on a low knoll behind it. I went to have a 
 look at the pillar, and found it to be well built of coral stfjne 
 with a thick outer plastering of lime, lietween this and the 
 next cape the porters discovered a turtle's nest, and dug out 
 over i(X) eggs. The cape is called Ras Garavole, and we had 
 to strike inland and climb over a low ridge covered with thick 
 buSh to avoid it. 
 
 Jicyond this the coast-land may be described as flat and 
 low, white sandy ridges alternating with wide sweeping bays 
 and low headlands. Halting at 12.30 p.m., I received startling 
 news which seriously threatened the progress of my expe- 
 dition. We met a Watiku fisherman from Port Durnford, 
 who told my head guide, Bwana Siri, that some of the 
 Somalis we had seen at Kionga had gone up ahead of us, 
 and calling the Gallas together, had given them five sheep as 
 an inducement to make common cause against me, they 
 asserting that I was coming up with many guns to make war. 
 The Gallas were urged to join the Somalis in attacking me, 
 and some of the latter were to go at once and warn their 
 people. 
 
 I held a council of war over this information, and decided 
 that Bwana Siri and his brother — the latter had joined me 
 again the night before, and we had sighted the dhow with 
 our supplies off and on the whole day — should go on at once 
 to Port Durnford, or Burkau as it is called by the natives, 
 taking Mze Saif's letter with them to the Waze, and to inform 
 them and the Gallas of the true object of my journey. I 
 would halt for the night at a water-pool, an hour or more 
 away, where the guides were to rejoin us the same night if 
 the news was true, but if not, they would onl}' come out to 
 meet me next day. I impressed upon them that, whether 
 the news was true or false, I was not going to be stopped, but 
 would march on in any case. 
 
 The guides having started, I resumed my march, and after 
 an hour reached the water-hole called Shakalasia, on the 
 f)ther side of another low point ; here I camped below a low 
 ridge, having marched fourteen miles from m)' last camp at 
 Gome la llekwa. The water-hole was choked up with earth 
 and rubbish, and when cleared we found the water excessively
 
 XXIII 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 447 
 
 salt and brackish, at which the porters grumbled a ggod deal. 
 However, the dhow from Kionga was anchored beside the 
 point, so I was able to get a little water from her, but it was 
 very little, and in the end I had to fall back upon the awful 
 stuff in the hole, which tasted worse than any sea-water. I 
 held a muster of all my people, askaris and porters, and told 
 them that we were now in an enemy's country, and that they 
 would ihave to strictly obey and carry out the regulations 
 
 CAMP AT SHAKALASIA. 
 
 which I proposed to enforce for the sake of our mutual safety, 
 whereupon they gave a cheer and promised to obey. 
 
 The temperature this day was as follows — 6 a.m., 72" ; 
 3 p.m., 83" ; 6 p.m., y8\ 
 
 It rained heavily most of the night, and I had to move my 
 tent to the shelter of some bushes on account of the strong 
 south-west wind blowing in from the sea. There was no 
 word of the guides next morning, so I started off again. The 
 weather was still vcrj- wet and storm}-. Our way was still 
 
 I
 
 448 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 along the sea-shore, here fringed with rocky islets (the Rozier 
 Rocks), one larger island lying in front of Shakalasia Point, 
 whilst inland the country consisted of low ridges, beyond 
 which it was open and flat and covered with grass and bush. 
 
 An hour after our departure, on turning a rocky corner, I 
 was dismayed to see our dhow had run aground ; I called a 
 halt, and put everybody on to lighten her, and it was not till 
 the last load was out that she floated again. We then had to 
 re-load, but all the porters worked with a will, for she carried 
 all our future supplies, and when the last load was on board 
 again they pushed her off into deep water with a cheer. 
 
 The coast-line varied between white sandy bays — remark- 
 able for the large accumulation of sea-weed on the beach, 
 often 4 to 5 feet deep, and beaten into a compact mass by 
 the action of waves — and low rocky headlands ; we often 
 had to wade up to our middles to get round them, slipping 
 over the jagged coral bottom, and often falling into unexpected 
 holes. About ten o'clock I saw my guides coming to meet me 
 accompanied by some of the Port Durnford people. The 
 news of yesterday was apparently a false alarm, and so far 
 this was satisfactory, but I afterwards had reason to suspect 
 that the report had been got up by the guides themselves, 
 cither to obtain an opportunity of getting to Port Durnford 
 before me or for the purpose of frightening me. 
 
 The Port Durnford people expressed much pleasure at 
 seeing me, and escorted by them I continued my march over 
 the rocky coral strand, which was very trying for the porters' 
 bare feet. After rounding some more rocky points and 
 coming upon open sandy beach again, the guides pointed out 
 a group of casuarina trees some distance ahead, saying they 
 were close to Burkau or Port Durnford. Shortly afterwards, 
 to my relief, the guides struck inland across gently 
 undulating grassy downs with scattered clumps of bush, 
 everything appearing to us very green and luxuriant after 
 so much marching over sand and rock. As we proceeded 
 I obtained occasional glimpses of the Port Durnford estuary, 
 a fine wide bay apparently running for some distance inland. 
 At last, at 1 1 a.m., we reached the yillage of Burkau a little 
 bej'ond the clumj) of casuarina trees.
 
 TR.-WELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 449 
 
 Burkau I found to be an ordinary Watiku village exactl)- 
 resembling those already seen. It is situated on the shores of 
 the estuary, and contains about one hundred and fifty people. 
 They own a few head of cattle, which they purchase from the 
 Somalis, and also have a good many goats and sheep. 
 The Waze came out to meet me and escorted me to the 
 Baraza, where I handed them Mze Saif's letter and explained 
 the object of my journey, the head-man promising to come and 
 see me later on. Not finding a suitable place in the \-illage, 
 
 FIRST VIEW OK I'OR T DURXFORD ESTL'ARY. 
 
 w hich appeared poor and dirt}-, I fixed my camp near a water- 
 hole a little distance off. 
 
 The dhow with our supplies arrived earl)- in the afternoon, 
 and I arranged with the captain for him to return at once to 
 Kionga to bring up the remainder, as well as some further 
 supplies, which were to have been sent up b}- Mr. Rogers. I 
 promised him an extra present if he returned quickl}-. I 
 re-packed all the loads brought up, leaving fourteen and a half 
 bags of rice and fish to be sent on by the porters I hoped to 
 
 G G
 
 450 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP 
 
 obtain here. I was still busy over this when the head-man 
 arrived, bringing with him a sheep as a present. I asked him 
 for porters to carry these extra loads ; I only wanted them for 
 one day or two, as I proposed making a camp about two 
 days' march ahead, and then sending my own men to and fro 
 to get up the food as it was required. My head guide having 
 suggested the advisability of obtaining a local man, I also 
 asked for a guide. 
 
 CAMP AT );ruK.\u. 
 
 The head-man in reply said it was impossible to supply me 
 with porters, as all the slaves were now away working in the 
 shambas, which were a long way off, and that they had no food 
 to sell. He would give me a guide if I wished it, but no one knew 
 anything of the country inland except that it was all thorns, 
 (juite impossible to cut through, and besides, that the country 
 was now entirely under water ; that he had never heard of 
 any forest, but that of course he was ready to help me in
 
 xxiii TRAVELS IX EAST AP'RICA 45J 
 
 every way, according to the orders he had received from Mze 
 Saif. 
 
 To this very unsatisfactory declaration I answered that I had 
 come up as Mze Saif's guest, with his full knowledge and 
 support, that I only wished to examine the country and 
 ascertain the truth about this reported forest, whether it 
 existed or not ; if not, very well, but I would rather find out 
 the truth for myself 
 
 As to the thorny bush, I had brought hatchets and knives 
 and would cut a path through if necessary ; if the country 
 was flooded, why, we should have to wade, that was all. I added 
 that I wished to start next day, as my food supply was 
 limited, and he had just told me I could buy nothing here. I 
 presented him with ten rupees for himself and a similar sum 
 for the Waze, promising a further present on my return if he 
 gave me satisfaction. He thereupon promised to get me a 
 guide for the next day, but added that it would be advisable 
 for me to give a present to the Wa-Boni and Wa-Galla head- 
 men before I started. To this I consented, and fixed the inter- 
 view for next morning, after which I proposed to start for the 
 interior. 
 
 Owing to the number of Gallas about the village, several of 
 whom came to visit my camp, I thought it advisable to keep 
 all my men at hand, putting a couple of sentries on guard. 
 
 The temperature this day was — 6 a.m., 72"' (with heavy 
 squalls of wind and rain) ; i p.m., St,' ; 4 p.m., 8r ; 6 p.m., 
 jG'^ (squalls and showers in the night). 
 
 The following morning, June 3, was again storm)' and 
 wet. I had my tent struck, and all the loads packed 
 in readiness to start as soon as my shauri with the native 
 head-men was over. They shortly afterwards arrived, sixteen 
 Wa-Galla and some Wa-Boni, accompanied by the head-man 
 and Waze of Burkau. I opened the discussion by reminding 
 them that the Wa-Galla and Wa-Boni and the English were 
 friends, and telling them that I had only come to look at 
 their country, and take back information about themselves. I 
 had come for auiani (peace), and not for war. 
 
 The leading Wa-Galla replied— Yes, that from the Sabaki 
 to the Tana the Wa-Galla knew that the English were friends.
 
 452 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA chap 
 
 for never had there been an>' fighting or trouble between 
 them ; the English had latel>' fought against the Somalis at 
 Kismayu, but they were also the enemies of the Wa-Galla, 
 and I was \er>' welcome to enter their countr}' as far as they 
 were concerned. 
 
 I thereupon gave thirt)--two rupees to be divided amongst 
 the Wa-Galla and ten rupees to the Wa-Boni, and the pro- 
 mised local guide having arrived, I bade them all farewell and 
 
 I'okT urkNIOKl) 
 
 made an immediate start, the head-man escorting me a part of 
 the wa)-. 
 
 The countr)- traversed during this first day's march from 
 Burkau was mostly low bush— latterly very thick, and involving 
 much cutting, umbrella-shaped mimosa being very numer- 
 ous. The general lay of the land was flat, crossed at intervals 
 by several low ridges, one called Shimawongo being about a 
 couple of miles to the north-west of Burkau. The intervening 
 valle}-s were at present complete swamps, owing to the heavy 
 rain=?. and through them we had to wade often above knee-
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 453 
 
 deep. Two miles further on we came to another low vkhj^c 
 named Kinawi, which we skirted, marching through a low 
 valley all thick bush, and also completely flooded to a depth 
 of 2i feet ; progress was slow, as we had to feel our way 
 through the water to avoid the numerous holes made by 
 elephants, many of which seemed to have been here quite 
 recently. Beyond this the land gradually rose, and we con- 
 tinued cutting our way slowly through the thick busli till, at 
 
 INTO THE BUSH. 
 
 3 p.m., we came upon another swamp, with the fresh tracks of 
 numerous hyaenas and wild dogs at its edge. The guides said 
 they must have been attracted by a dead elephant, and they 
 begged me to camp here, saying that the hyitnas would be 
 sure to return at nightfall, when they would follow them and 
 find out where the elephant was and get the tusks — a great 
 find for them. I agreed, but told them as to-day's had been 
 a very short march they must make up for it by a longer one 
 to-morrow\
 
 454 
 
 TK/WELS IN EAST AF'RICA CH. xxiii 
 
 We had to clear a space for our camp in the thick bush, which 
 rcall}- only wanted large trees to be called a regular forest. 
 Our progress had been so slow that I did not think we had 
 covered a greater distance than six miles in the five hours 
 since we had left Burkau, The country undoubtedly looked 
 most fertile and promising, the soil for the first part of the 
 journe}- being of a brown to reddish chocolate, and latterly 
 of a good grey loam. 
 
 Much to the disappointment of the guides the hyrenas never 
 returned, and but for the trumpeting of a distant elephant, 
 our first night in the bush passed quite quietl}' and without 
 incident of any kind. 
 
 The temperature this day was — 6 a.m., 72' (rainy) ; 4 p.m., 
 79 ; 6 p.m., 75".
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 SEARCH FOR THK FOREST 
 
 Into the Bush — Cutting our Way — Orchella-weed — Wiukono — An 
 Elephant Haunt — Buramanza Hill — Makundu Ridge — A Useless 
 Guide — An ever-receding Forest — Fever — A Shauri with the Guides — 
 Stalking a Leopard — Burkau again — Deceit of Head-man — Resolve to 
 fall back — The Wa-Galla Settlements on the Wiori River — A Declining 
 Race — Good-bye to Port Durnford — Shamku — Thirst — A Weary 
 Night March — Return to Kionga — Engage another Guide — My New 
 Plans. 
 
 The countr}- through which I travelled on m}- second da}''s 
 march still continued very flat and swampy, water lying every- 
 where, often a foot deep. 
 
 Tracks of elephants were \-ery numerous, the ground in 
 places being ploughed up into a regular ciuagmire by their 
 ponderous feet. The bush was so thick and dense that it 
 necessitated constant cutting to get through it. It was 
 literally a case of marching five minutes and then waiting 
 five minutes for a path to be cleared, four askaris, changed 
 every hour, being set to cut a way ahead ; our progress was 
 therefore slow in the extreme. Mimosas were frequent, and 
 some of the bush was large enough to deserve the name of 
 low forest, the trees averaging froin 15 to 20 feet in height. 
 Orchella-weed was reported to be plentiful, and I passed some 
 dead and deciduous trees covered with it ; it became still more 
 plentiful further on. About two hours after I had started we 
 came upon a cleared space on higher ground, called Warkono, 
 where elephant-hunters and orchella-weed gatherers are ac- 
 customed to camp. From this point onwards our way continued 
 through the same description of country — thick bush inter- 
 
 455
 
 4,6 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 mixed with larger trees, and here and there an occasional 
 baobab rising above all. The land was flat and low, and we 
 were constantly either passing water-pools or wading through 
 them, the soil being an excellent rich grey loam. Elephant 
 tracks abounded, and, judging from the freshly-dropped dung, 
 quite recent, so that I fully expected to come upon one of 
 them at any moment. 
 
 Towards noon we got upon a higher level, and in another 
 
 BUKA.MAN/A HII.l., 
 
 hour we reached the foot of a hill called Buramanza, for which 
 the guides had been on the look-out for some time ; it is 
 a noted and conspicuous landmark for elephant-hunters, 
 remarkable for its solitary position amidst the surrounding 
 flat plain. I found it very steep to climb, with frequent coral 
 out-crops, much weather-worn. Its summit, which I estimated 
 to be from 250 to 300 feet high, was a fairly large plateau with 
 a dense undergrowth of bush, among which larger trees, such 
 as baobabs and mimosas, were growing in a rich chocolate
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 457 
 
 loam. I was much struck with the appearance of some 
 curious flat stones pierced with circular holes, so rej^ular in 
 appearance as to suggest the hand of man, but the head guide 
 who was with me said — " It is God's work, no one has ever 
 been up here before ! " 
 
 From the hill-top a very extensive view was obtained of 
 the surrounding country, which, as far as the eye could see, 
 presented one uniform appearance of thick bush, with here and 
 there larger trees standing out prominently. Large green 
 swamps or flooded tracts were also a noticeable feature of the 
 landscape ; one very large one about two miles to the south- 
 west my guide said was called Bomzo. 
 
 The bush appeared denser further inland, but even with my 
 field-glasses I could see nothing on the horizon but this 
 uniform green area of low forest, and with the exception of a 
 small ridge some distance away, the general flatness of the 
 landscape was unrelieved by any noticeable elevation of the 
 ground, the only variety being the large green swamps and 
 distant gleams of flooded water. It was three o'clock in the 
 afternoon before I rejoined my porters ; I found them halted 
 about a quarter of a mile off, and the place being a suitable 
 one, I decided to camp there, for we all had had a rough 
 time of it since we started at seven o'clock in the morning. 
 
 I heard distant gun-shots several times during the day : 
 the guides said that they had been fired by elephant-hunters. 
 
 On overhauling my loads I found I had still five days' food 
 for my people, so I resolved to persevere in my search for the 
 forest for three days longer, and then return by forced marches 
 to the coast by the path which we had cut through the bush. 
 
 It rained again heavily during the night, but my people 
 were well sheltered under huts built of grass and branches, 
 which they erect quickly at each camping-place. My head 
 people had small tents of their own made of American drill. 
 
 The temperature of this day was — 6 a.m., 72' ; 4 p.m., 80 
 (no rain during the day) ; 6 p.m., 76 (rain at night). 
 
 The following morning, June 5, my third day in the bush, 
 we started off at 7 a.m., making our way across the intervening 
 valley towards the ridge we had sighted from Buramanza 
 Hill the day before. Our progress was again exceedingly
 
 458 
 
 TR.'WELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 slow, ever)- step of the \va\- having to be hacked through the 
 dense bush ; this continued, with constant halts to allow the 
 men ahead time to cut the bush, till three in the afternoon, 
 when we were nearl}' abreast of the ridge we had been 
 making for so long ; the guides called it Makundu. The 
 country passed through presented much the same character- 
 istics as previoush- described ; we passed numerous clumps of 
 ScDisevieria. 
 
 On reaching Makundu ridge, I told Bwana Siri that as the 
 
 OLR I'ATH THKOLGH THE BLSII. 
 
 people had had a ver}' hard da}''s work I proposed cam ping- 
 on the other side of it, but he said to get there we must 
 make a wide circuit, as the bush immediatel}- round the ridge 
 was very thick and quite impenetrable. Off we went again, 
 and after another hour's hard cutting the guide suddenh- 
 declared that as there was no water there we must again 
 alter our direction. I agreed, but asked him why on earth 
 he had not told me this before ! 
 
 Now began an aimless wandering here and there, our head
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 459 
 
 guide showing, purposely I believed, an utter ignorance of 
 the country, for it seemed to me that we were now retracing 
 our steps towards Burkau in a parallel direction to that we 
 had travelled over }-esterda)'. As it was getting late I said 
 nothing, intending to remonstrate afterwards, for I found the 
 local guide brought from Burkau to be perfectly useless. 
 He admitted that he was only a slave, and knew nothing 
 whatever about the countr)', having never been here before, 
 but said he had been ordered to come, and what could he do ? 
 
 LAST DAY S CAMP IN THK liUSH. 
 
 Just as it was getting dark we reached a water-pool, by 
 which we camped, all dead beat after our tedious ten hours' 
 wandering in the bush. 
 
 In the evening I had a long talk with the guide, Bwana 
 Siri ; I told him I had sent for him privately, as I did not 
 wish to shame him before the others. I asked him what was I 
 to think? — here we were, after three days' aimless wanderings, 
 as far off as ever from the forest we were seeking ; could he 
 be surprised if, judging from his actions to-day, I had begun
 
 4'So TR-WKLS IN IZAST AFRICA CHAH. 
 
 to believe that he did not know the country? Would it not 
 be better to return at once to Port Durnford and t^et a better 
 ^uide, and make a fresh start? He must see for himself 
 that the man we had brought was an utter failure, and not 
 worth the daily ration of food I gave him. Bwana Siri 
 admitted the truth of what I said, but begged me not to turn 
 back, saying — " Wait till to-morrow, I will promise to lead 
 you to a big forest." I agreed to give him another chance, 
 and so the conference ended. 
 
 Several elephants trumpeted close to our camp during the 
 night, which otherwise was undisturbed. I had a sharp bout 
 of fever, brought on by the constant wettings I had gone 
 through during the last two days, and was only able to take 
 two thermometer readings, viz. at 6 a.m., 76'., and at 4 p.m.. 
 
 The next day was a repetition of the old weary business of 
 hacking and toiling through this apparently never-ending 
 thick bush, broken only by swamps, through which we 
 paddled, often slipping into the deep holes made by wallow- 
 ing elephants. After three hours' tramp the country at last 
 became more open, small grassy glades becoming frequent, 
 the soil alternating between the usual grey loam and a 
 chocolate and light friable red. 
 
 Whilst resting at noon by a water-pool situated in a 
 picturesque glade, the guides came up to me and asked to have 
 a shauri. Bwana Siri's brother, acting as spokesman, said they 
 had only just been told of my last night's conversation with 
 his brother ; that this sort of business was no use, for neither 
 he nor any of the others knew anything whatever of the 
 country ; that several times during the day they had climbed 
 trees but could not discover any signs of forest or large trees, 
 and that he spoke in the name of all in asking me to turn 
 back to Burkau, where we could make a fresh start with guides 
 who did know the country. 
 
 With my limited supply of food and useless guides, this 
 really seemed the wisest course to adopt, especiallx' as the 
 country seemed, if anything, to become more open. The 
 accompanying illustration is typical of the larger trees — some- 
 what resembling a dwarfed oak — that grow in this portion of
 
 XXIV 
 
 TR.W'KLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 461 
 
 the country. I finall)- ^a\e the order to turn back, and make 
 for our previous day's camj) at the foot of Buramanza Hill. 
 Shortly afterwards Bwana Siri, who was following; behind 
 
 TYI'K OK I.AKCIKK TKKK (;K()\VIN<; IN THK INTKKIOK. 
 
 sent me word that he had heard an elephant moving quite 
 close to the path. I called to Dumgu, m)- head-man, and we 
 made our wa>- as quiet!)- as we could to where the guide was 
 waitin"- on the edgre of the bush, where, after a short and
 
 462 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 exciting pause, we heard a gurgling sound proceeding from a 
 thick clump of bush about twenty yards away. 
 
 liwana Siri then declared it was not an elephant but a lion, 
 and we presently heard the beast, who must have been quite 
 unaware of our proximity, leisurely yawning ; we stole up as 
 quietly as we could, but before any of us could fire a shot a 
 fine leopard stole out of the bush and bounded away. We 
 resumed our march, and without further incident reached our 
 old camping-ground below Buramanza Hill. 
 
 Starting early the next morning, June 7, we traxelled back 
 very quickly over the path it had taken us so much toil to cut, 
 arriving at Burkau at one o'clock the same afternoon. Just 
 outside the village my attention was called to some old ruins, 
 the remains of an old stone wall and one or two tombs, 
 evidence that the W'atiku must have been settled here a very 
 long time ago. 
 
 I went at once to the Baraza, where, sending for the head- 
 man, I told him that I evidently had to thank him for m}' five 
 days' wanderings in the bush, and that I was exceedingly 
 displeased at the. manner in which I had been treated, but 
 that I was now more determined than ever to ascertain the 
 truth about this forest, and expected him to make immediate 
 amends for his past conduct by supplying me at once with a 
 trustworthy and reliable guide. I went back to my old 
 camping-ground outside the village, where presently the askari 
 whom I had sent down with the dhow, came to report its safe 
 arrival with all my stores after a good two days' voyage from 
 Kionga. 
 
 The head-man sent a messenger to say that he would come 
 and see me early next day, when he hoped everything would 
 be arranged to my satisfaction. I was greatly annoyed at all 
 this waste of precious time, and specially so with my head 
 guide, Bwana Siri, who, whether purposely or otherwise, had 
 proved himself such a broken reed. 
 
 June 8 and 9 were spent in tedious shauris with the Burkau 
 head-men, who tried every means of frightening and turning 
 me from my resolve to penetrate inland again. They said 
 that the Wa-Galla living in the country behind Burkau were 
 \ery bad people, and would certainly try to kill me and my
 
 XXIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 463 
 
 porters if I went near them. They wished me to give them a 
 letter saying I was going into the Wa-Galla country of m>' 
 own free-will, so as to exonerate them in the event of anything 
 happening to me. I immediately agreed ; they then dropped 
 the subject, nonplussed for the moment. Early on the 
 morning of the second da>', they returned with the new guide 
 that they had at last consented to give. 
 
 This guide, on being questioned by me, acknowledged him- 
 self to be a slave, and when I asked him where he was going 
 to lead us, he pointed to the southward, in the direction we 
 had just traversed. On asking him if he was to take us by 
 paths he replied, " Xo, through the bush only." I then asked, 
 did he know the country towards the west and north-west, and 
 he said, " No, he had never been there." 
 
 This made me lose patience ; I turned round to the head- 
 men, and asked them what was the use of such a man, it 
 would only be repeating what had happened before ; let them 
 give me a definite answer once for all — would they give me a 
 guide or would they not? The head-man replied, if I wanted 
 to go into the Galla countr}-, wh\' did I not mention this 
 before, as then he would have sent for the Galla head-man. I 
 answered, how could I, a stranger, possibly know whether 
 I would have to pass through the Galla country or not ? 
 Besides, why did he not mention the matter at the shauri I 
 held with the head-men of that tribe ? 
 
 I was getting tired of all these obstructions, and said that I 
 would report their conduct to their chief, Mze Saif. On 
 hearing this, they asked leave to retire for a consulta- 
 tion amongst themselves, and on their return made the fol- 
 lowing offer : — 
 
 They would send for the Galla head-man to come in and 
 have a shauri with me. This I was told would take about 
 three or four days, and as their messengers would doubtless 
 receive instructions to warn the Gallas privately not to allow 
 me to pass through their country, I closed the conference, and 
 announced my intention of leaving the next day, as I saw it 
 was their evident intent'on to afford me no assistance what- 
 ever ; I would report the matter both to ]\Ize Saif and at 
 Mombasa.
 
 464 
 
 TRA\ELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP 
 
 I could have forced my wa}- through the countr}', but this 
 might have led to fighting and troubles, which I wished to 
 avoid. As far as I could make out, the head-men were afraid 
 to let me go inland for two reasons : if I were killed they 
 feared the Consul-General at Zanzibar ; if, on the other hand, 
 I defeated the Gallas, they dreaded the possible revenge 
 that would (wertake them after m}- departure. Although 
 thwarted so far, I had b}- no means relinquished my 
 original plans ; indeed, the veiled opposition of the W'atiku 
 
 !P»r~ 
 
 .... >:■ 
 
 ( .\.\I1' Al HLKKAT 
 
 (Mily made me more determined in m)- resolve. On thinking 
 the matter o\er, I thought m}- best plan would be to fall back 
 to Kionga, and from there to make another and, I hoped, 
 more successful attempt to reach the interior. 
 
 Through m}- head-man and interpreter I had obtained a 
 good deal of information about this part of the countr)- and 
 its inhabitants, which I summarize as follows — 
 
 There were said to be about one thousand Gallas, who were 
 settled mostl)- on the ri\-er W'iori, one and a half da\'s march
 
 XXIV TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 465 
 
 from Burkau. These Gallas were formerly runaway slaves of 
 the Somalis, who now feared them as they were armed not only 
 with spears but with bows and poisoned arrows. The Galla 
 head-man was named Galmo, and they were settled in scattered 
 villages, about two hundred in each. These Gallas were con- 
 stantly at war with the Somalis, whose wives and daughters, 
 cattle and sheep, they often carried off. They were the only 
 VVa-Galla I had heard of as using poisoned arrows, with which 
 they lie in ambush to attack the Somalis ; the spear being the 
 usual Galla weapon. The Gallas were in alliance with the 
 head-man of Burkau, who belonged tothe Wa-Katwa, a subordi- 
 nate branch of the Watiku, who are peculiar in not eating fish. 
 The real head-man of Burkau was called Amudu, and was a 
 brother of Avatula of Jongeni, the chief who was then in 
 rebellion along with the Witu pretender Fumo Omari. The 
 Watiku, I was told, feared the Wa-Galla ; and if their slaves 
 ran away to the latter, did not dare to reclaim them, while 
 the proximity of their shambas to the Galla country made it 
 more politic for them to keep at peace with them. 
 
 There was formerly a Watiku village named Bubushi near 
 Buramanza Hill, which was destroyed by the Gallas about 
 seven years ago. The Gallas at the same time destro}'ed 
 another village, called Sheya, situated six hours' distance from 
 Burkau, and on the other side of the river ; many people were 
 killed and many made slaves, these last still remaining in 
 slaver}', among them the brother of Amudu. This informa- 
 tion was subsequently confirmed by ]\Iohamed bin Saif, who 
 said the villages had been destro}'ed ten }-ears before, and that 
 the Bajoni afterwards retaliated by fighting the Wa-Galla, 
 and burning some of their villages. 
 
 The ruins I saw near Burkau were built by a Bajoni named 
 Shingwia, and were the remains of a wall intended to resist 
 the Galla attacks. The river on which the Galla villages are 
 situated was stated not to be large, and further inland to dry 
 in the hot season into a series of pools, and sometimes 
 altogether. 
 
 The Gallas were said to kill many elephants with their 
 poisoned arrows, from which it follows that bush, if not forest, 
 must e.xist there for these animals to roam in. I also heard 
 
 H n
 
 466 TRAVELS IN KAST AFRICA 
 
 repeated mention of a real forest, and a large one, but the 
 information was very vague, and, I suspected, purposely so. 
 Mohamed bin Saif told me that the Gallas lived in a big 
 forest, and I was informed that all the elephants came from 
 the Galla countr)-. A boy who had been there said there was 
 a big forest, with trees large enough to make canoes. These 
 Wa-Galla were said to trade only in honey and ivory. 
 
 In illustration of the fear inspired in the Watiku by the 
 Gallas, I was told of a man from Tula having shot an elephant 
 and taken the tusks to his village, whereupon the Gallas 
 demanded them under threat of seizing some of the Tula 
 children and making them slaves, as well as declaring war. 
 The tusks were given up, accompanied by a propitiatory gift 
 of money. I also heard that only a few days back some 
 Gallas walked into Burkau, and killed and ate a sheep without 
 paying for it. These facts now made me understand the 
 reluctance of the head-man to help me to penetrate into the 
 Galla countr}-. 
 
 The cultivation round Burkau was chiefly metamah, a little 
 sim-sim, and some tobacco. Cotton was not grown, but it 
 would grow well, and the Watiku stated that the whole 
 country from Mattaroni upwards was excellently adapted for 
 its cultivation. The Watiku extend along the coast almost uj) 
 to Kisma)-u, in scattered villages considerable distances apart, 
 owing to their jealousy and distrust of one another, particularly 
 on the part of the head-men. The names of the Watiku \illages 
 north of Burkau were — 
 
 1. Tosha, six hours from Burkau. 
 
 2. Gudaki, one and a half hours from Tosha. 
 
 3. M'Dava (an island), one hour's sail with S.W. wind. 
 
 4. Tula, also an island. 
 
 5. Shwe, another island. 
 
 6. Kwaijama, two hours south of Kismayu, 
 
 Mze Saif's authority was really only acknowledged as far 
 as Shakan, beyond which the Waze of each village managed 
 their affairs pretty well as they liked. Everything tends to 
 show the gradual deca}' of the Watiku from their former 
 position ; they appear never to have recovered from their 
 cjverthrow b}' the Gallas.
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 467 
 
 6 a.m. 
 
 , 72° (rainy) 
 
 2 p.m.. 
 
 , 84^ (fine) 
 
 4 . 
 
 79 
 
 6 ,. 
 
 76 
 
 The temperature clurini,^ the last three days had been as 
 follows — 
 
 June 7. June 8. June 9. 
 
 • 72' (fine) 72° (rainy) 
 
 .cS4 „ 84' (fine) 
 
 •79 » 81 
 
 .76 (rain-squalls 76 
 at night) 
 
 I bade a final good-bye to Port Durnford on the morning 
 of June 10, making an early start in pouring rain for Ras 
 M'Narani, the first stage of my journey. I was very desirous 
 to verify the truth about a reported lake said to be situated 
 a short distance inland from this headland. It beine hieh 
 tide, we had to keep close along the shore, and a long weari- 
 some tramp through soft sand across different rocky points 
 brought us finally to Ras M'Narani, six hours after leaving 
 Burkau. Whilst my porters were resting I went up to the knoll 
 with the broken pillar previously described, to get a view of the 
 country. Near the shore it consisted of low rounded grass 
 ridges, beyond which stretched a vast flat plain covered with 
 bush and here and there large trees rising above it. This 
 appears to be the characteristic feature of the coast-line south 
 of Port Durnford. 
 
 The soil of the open grass land was a very light grey sand, 
 and became richer as you left the coast ; the more rocky 
 portions and headlands are covered almost to the water's 
 edge with thick scrub and numerous clumps of Saiisevicria 
 growing in a deep red loam. 
 
 We now started for the lake, which the guides called 
 Shamku. After leaving the grass land we had to cut our 
 wa}' through the bush, eventually, at 5.30 p.m., reaching a 
 small swamp where we camped for the night. As we had 
 been marching without food from 6.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m., 
 I gave out double rations to everybod}-. I may mention that 
 I made it a rule only to take food when my people took 
 theirs, and seeing me marching with them and sharing their 
 hardships in every wa)-, made them, I think, more willing 
 and ready to follow me.
 
 463 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP 
 
 I spent the next morning in exploring the country. Shamku 
 I found was not a lake, but a series of shallow pools, which 
 are said never to dry up, and are a noted haunt of wild 
 elephants, traces of them and water-buck being numerous. 
 I made the complete circuit of these pools — none of them 
 of very large size, the surrounding country being thick bush 
 with occasional open grass glades, the soil varying from grey 
 loam to a light friable red, and everywhere excellent. 
 
 I left the same afternoon for Ras M'Narani, Shamku being. 
 
 CAMP AT SIHAMKU. 
 
 I estimated, four and a half miles distant from this headland. 
 As the tide was full it was impossible to march along the 
 shore from M'Narani, so we followed a well-defined track 
 along the coast, which is used by the Somalis to drive their 
 cattle down for sale, and also by the Watiku on their up and 
 down journeys. On our way we had to climb over several 
 of the jagged rocky hills described on my journey up, reaching 
 the old camp at Gome la Hekwa after two and a half hours' 
 marching from M'Narani. ]\Iy tent was nearly pitched, and 
 we were just settling down comfortabl)', when the porters who
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 469 
 
 were sent to fetch water came back saying that the water in 
 the pool was quite dried up ! The guides wanted to stop on 
 notwithstanding, but I said no, I was not going to let my 
 people start the next morning without having had any water 
 all night — we must go on till we found water, however far it 
 might be. 
 
 At 6.30 p.m. we were off again, making for the well at Ras 
 Kiambone. 
 
 At nine o'clock I halted for twenty minutes to give a rest 
 to the porters, who, with their usual improvidence, had finished 
 their water shortly after leaving Shamku. It was pitch dark, 
 and I marched last, keeping everybody in front of me so as 
 not to lose any stragglers in the dark. We did not reach the 
 well at Kiambone till nearl)- 1 1 p.m., when I pitched my tent 
 as well as I could myself, ever}'body being completely done 
 up, some of the porters throwing themselves on their faces 
 and lapping up the water like dogs. What would it have 
 been had I given way and remained at Gome la Hekwa 
 without any water all night, and a hot march in the sun 
 afterwards ! 
 
 I saw that ever)-bod}' had water, and then at i a.m. enjo}'ed 
 a well-deserved supper of tea and a tin of Chicago beef, falling 
 fast asleep afterwards in m)' camp chair. The porters slept 
 all round me just as they had thrown themselves down, with 
 their loads scattered all about, and no wonder, for we 
 had marched nearl)- twenty-five miles that da}' and had been 
 ten hours without water. 
 
 The temperature to-day was — 6 a.m., 73 ; 10 a.m., 84 ; 12 
 noon, 87 ; 6 p.m. (no reading — a night march). 
 
 The next morning I told the men that I would buy them 
 some sheep when we got back to Kionga, when they should 
 have a big feast to make up for all the hard times we had 
 lately gone through. This put new life into everybody, and 
 at 8 a.m. we were well on the way on our final march to 
 Kionga. 
 
 With our last experience fresh in my mind, I asked Bwana 
 Siri how on earth the natives managed when travelling up to 
 Burkau overland in the dr)' season ? He said they would 
 start from Shakan at about 4 p.m. and travel all night, carrying
 
 470 TK.WELS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 a <(ourd of water with them, and arrive at Burkau early on the 
 following day. That there is no real scarcity of water along 
 this coast is evidenced by the fact, that besides Shamku there 
 is said to be another lake about one day's march inland from 
 Shakan, called M'Bawe — in fact, the same described to me by 
 ]^wana Siri on my first visit to Mattaroni. 
 
 On ray way down to Shakan I noticed with interest some 
 coco-nuts lying here and there on the shore, evidently washed 
 up by the waves — indeed I had remarked them both on my 
 up and on the downward march from Port Durnford. There 
 were both green and mature ones, but all had been spoilt by 
 their long immersion in the water. I expect the casuarina 
 trees that are found scattered here and there along the coast 
 are sown in this manner. 
 
 We were once more welcomed at Shakan by the Waze, and 
 here I left Bwana Siri in the bosom of his family, he promising 
 to rejoin me at Kionga, where I proposed remaining for some 
 days. I reached the latter place at noon, and after choosing 
 a good site for the camp on the sea-shore to the north of the 
 town, I went off with my interpreter, Rashid, to speak to the 
 Waze. They expressed great regret at the action of the Burkau 
 head-man, and said he was '^ nibaya sana" (very bad), and that 
 Mze Saif would be sure to punish him ; they promised to send 
 off a messenger immediately to summon Mohamed bin Saif, 
 who was at present at Homwe. I appreciated some green 
 coco-nuts which they presented me with ; I had not tasted 
 one, it seemed to me, for months ! 
 
 I was pleased to find the dhow, which I had sent off from 
 Port Durnford with my extra loads and some sick porters, 
 safely anchored in the bay. 
 
 Next day, on examining my stores that had been left here, 
 I was much vexed to find that a good deal of rice had been 
 stolen ; it was supposed to have been under the particular 
 charge of Mohamed bin Saif! This worthy gentleman arrived 
 in the evening, and was profuse in his expressions of regret 
 at what had happened at Burkau. The man would be severely 
 punished, and if I wished to return there I might be certain 
 that I should meet with no further difficulty. I told him I 
 would certainly not go back, but proposed instead to strike
 
 XXIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 471 
 
 inland behind Homwe, and that I counted on his helj) in 
 getting my spare loads carried up there. 
 
 This seemed to take him aback somewhat, but after a pause 
 he declared his readiness to do all he could to help me. I 
 therefore arranged for the dhow to land my goods opposite 
 Homwe, whence Mohamed bin Saifs people would carry 
 them inland. 
 
 After my late experiences, I was somewhat distrustful of 
 the two Watiku guides, and I had no doubt in my mind that, 
 both being Wa-Katwa, their sympathies and feelings had been 
 entirely with the Burkau people, the head-man there being of 
 the same tribe as themselves. I therefore looked about to find a 
 more reliable man, and was fortunate in obtaining the services 
 of a guide named Nasur M'Barak Jubri. Nasur was formerly 
 an askari in the Sultan of Zanzibar's army, but was now settled 
 here, having married a Watiku wife. He lived by elephant- 
 hunting, and knew all the country to the southward as far as 
 Itembe. In a talk I had with him on the subject, he suggested 
 that I should first go to the Homwe shambas three and a half 
 hours' distance from Kionga, camping there till I had got up 
 all my supplies from the coast, and then strike inland towards 
 the Mundane Range, where he said the forest begins ; that I 
 could form another camp there, and proceed afterwards as the 
 appearance of the country and circumstances might decide. 
 
 On Mohamed bin Saifs next visit to my camp, I sent 
 for Nasur, and arranged the details of my journey to Homwe 
 and the situation of my proposed camp. Whilst we were dis- 
 cussing this, Bwana Siri arrived from Shakan, and I availed 
 myself of the Watiku chief's presence to get rid of him then 
 and there, telling him I should not require his services any longer. 
 Mohamed bin Saif appeared very averse to this, and said 
 he did not like going against his brother, Mze Saifs, wishes ; 
 Bwana Siri remarking that he had been ordered to take me 
 up to Burkau and then bring me back to Itembe, Eventually 
 it was arranged that Bwana Siri should accompany me to 
 Homwe, and from there proceed to Itembe to inform Mze Saif 
 of all that had occurred since I had last seen him. I was only 
 too glad to get rid of the man under any pretext, for he had 
 proved himself utterly useless and unreliable.
 
 472 TRAXELS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Toddy was not procurable here ; I had tried to get some 
 for making bread. The coco-nuts growing in the town, 
 although luxuriant enough, were very few in number, not more 
 than thirt}' or forty trees altogether. Sheep and goats, too, I 
 found \-er)' dear ; I bought four for my people's promised feast 
 and paid the following high prices for them — 
 
 Rupees. Annas. 
 2 goats ... ... ... ... ... 12 12 
 
 I large sheep ... ... ... ... 9 — 
 
 I smaller ... ... ... ... 6 — 
 
 27 12 
 
 At first the)- wanted eleven rupees for the large sheep ! 
 
 I had now been three days at Kionga, and all my arrange- 
 ments being completed I prepared to start on the morrow, 
 June 16, for Homwe. In the evening Mohamed bin Saif 
 came to pay a final visit ; I regaled him with coffee, sweet 
 biscuits, and cigarettes, giving him besides a bottle of coffee, 
 biscuit and jam tins, and another complete suit of clothes 
 which he expressed a wish for, although this greatly 
 diminished my very scanty stock of wearing apparel. I 
 promised to send him an English watch when I got back to 
 Lamu, and this was afterwards duly sent to him. 
 
 In return he faithfully promised to see all m)* belongings 
 safely sent off to Homwe and carried up to my camp, but all 
 these fine promises turned out to be mere words ; for eventu- 
 all)- I had to settle everj-thing with the captain of my dhow, 
 who declared that nothing whatever had been sent to him ; I 
 also had to hire a fishing-canoe to carr}' down the balance 
 of my goods. This is a sample of the Bajoni character ; I 
 found them always very full of promises, but deceitful and 
 treacherous. 
 
 Having got rid of Mohamed bin Saif, I was next inter- 
 viewed b}- the Kionga W'aze, who came to ask for a written 
 testimonial to say that I had been well treated b}- them, 
 winding up with a request for a present, which these people 
 asked for in the calmest and most bare-faced manner 
 possible !
 
 XXIV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 473 
 
 The temperature record during these last three da)-s was as 
 follo\\-s — 
 
 June 13. 
 
 June 14. 
 
 June 15 
 
 6 a.m., 76" 
 
 ... 76 
 
 ... 76^^ 
 
 a.m., 82 (Fine) 
 
 82^ (Fine) 
 
 81" 
 
 4 p.m., 78 
 
 
 sr 
 
 6 p.m., 77" 
 
 79 
 
 79'
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 SECONIJ ATTEMPT TO REACH THE FOREST 
 
 Renewed start Inland — Niambwe Village — Camp in Bajoni Plantation — 
 Breaking the " Charm" — Watiku Agriculture — The Wa-Boni Country — 
 Watiku Intrigues — Soldier Ants — Mohamed reappears — Forest at 
 last— Indiarubber Vines — Gleaning Information — Rain and Swamps — 
 The Dodori River — Disquieting News — An Armed Force — Untrust- 
 worthy Guides — Fumo Omari — A Retreat decided on — A Caravan 
 of Indiarubber Collectors — A Satisfactory Bargain — Illness — Kind 
 Friends— My Faithful Dumgu — Loyalty of my Porters — Homeward 
 Bound. 
 
 On the morning of June i6 I set out once more on my 
 second attempt to find the forest. 
 
 On leaving the town, the path plunged at once into the 
 surrounding thick bush, our direction being almost due west, 
 past a small pond or swamp, where the Kionga people get 
 their water supply, as the well in the town is slightly brackish. 
 About three miles further on we came to the village of 
 Niambwe, the intervening country being thick dense bush, in 
 the undergrowth of which I noticed much guinea-grass. 
 Counting the one already mentioned, we had passed by four 
 swamps or pools, shallow circular depressions surrounded by 
 open grassy spaces, the soil everywhere being a light friable 
 grey loam with a light chocolate to reddish subsoil, very porous 
 and free. 
 
 Niambwe was a small and evidently a temporal"}- village, 
 used for cultivation purposes, the walls of the houses being 
 made of metamah-stalks only, and surrounded by a large area of 
 cleared land ; apart from the usual bean and other cultivation, 
 I noticed that each house had a small plot of tobacco. 
 
 474
 
 TRAX'KLS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 475 
 
 Leaving this, our way led for the next hour through some 
 of the thickest bush I had yet seen, the larger trees being also 
 finer and bigger. Emerging from this, the path lost itself in 
 what was once cultivation, but now completely covered with a 
 dense tangle of prickly scrub and creepers, through which it 
 was necessary to hack our way. From the middle of these 
 old shambas, originally cleared and cultivated by the Kionga 
 people, I obtained a good view of the surrounding country by 
 climbing a tree ; it appeared to be thickly wooded, with a 
 
 KIUN(;A— I'OKTERS WAITING FOR THE ORDER TO START. 
 
 steep ridge showing up in the distance. Leaving these 
 shambas, we got into thick bush again, through which we 
 continued to make slow progress as there was no path. 
 
 About one o'clock in the afternoon we suddenly emerged 
 upon extensive metamah fields, where, on high platforms 
 placed here and there, slaves were already watching the grain 
 and protecting it from birds. On inquiry, it turned out that 
 these \vere the Homwe shambas, and belonged to Mohamed 
 bin Saif Making our way through the high millet-stalks, we 
 camped by a swampy pool which la)- in the middle of the
 
 476 TRAXKLS IX EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 j)lantation, and round which rice was being grown. When I 
 heard that Homwc was onh' about two hours distant from 
 liere, immcdiatel}' m)- tent was pitched I despatched m}- head- 
 man Dumgu with all the porters to bring the loads from that 
 place, whither IMohamed bin Saif had promised to have 
 them carried from the dhow. 
 
 In the evening the corporal of the askaris came and 
 reported to me that he had heard Bwana Siri trying to dissuade 
 our new guide, Xasur, from taking me through Niambwe, and 
 also from passing through this metamah shamba ! As he 
 was leaving us so soon, I thought it best not to take any 
 notice of this. The following morning the thermometer 
 marked 64.' inside my tent at 6 a.m.; this was the lowest 
 reading I had yet registered, the air feeling quite fresh and 
 bracing, indeed quite cold. 
 
 This proved an eventful day. First, the head-man of the 
 Wa-Boni living near here came to see me ; I was delighted, as 
 I hoped to see more of this tribe as I went on. I was still talk- 
 ing to him when, at about nine o'clock, Mohamed bin Saif 
 suddenly arrived from Homwe accompanied b}' a large 
 following of natives. I saw at once something had happened, 
 and this is what it was. It appeared that I had unwittingly 
 committed a deep offence against W'atiku customs by camping 
 in one of their metamah fields. Mohamed bin Saif remarked 
 that he did not mind, but the owners of the neighbouring 
 shambas said that the}' had closed them against birds, ele- 
 phants, and buffaloes, and now my coming had spoilt it all ! 
 
 I asked how? He said that if a man brought salt into a 
 shamba, washed himself or defiled it in an\' wa}-, it broke the 
 charm and another medicine was required ; the long and the 
 short of it being, that a money indemnit}- was wanted. I 
 thought the)' were trying to impose on me, but, to shield the 
 guide Nasur who had brought us here, I said I was unaware 
 of the custom or I would not have come, and asked how much 
 I had to pay. I was told it was customar)' to kill a cow or 
 a bullock, whereupon I offered fifteen rupees, Mohamed bin 
 Saif having the grace to look ashamed as he took it. 
 
 My head-man Dumgu, who was at Homwe when Mohamed 
 bin Saif received the news of m\- being camped in his shamba,
 
 XXV 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 477 
 
 told me afterwards that he was greatly enraged, and exclaimed, 
 "If it was another European I would go and fight him for 
 having dared to do such a thing, but as this Bivaiia has 
 treated me well I will not fight against him, but shall ask for 
 money." 
 
 Of course there was trouble about getting up my loads, but 
 I will not inflict these farther details upon the reader ; suffice 
 it to say, that as usual Mohamed only partly fulfilled his 
 
 CAMP IN MOHAMED BIN .SA1P"S METAMAH SHAMBA. 
 
 promises ; however, the loads arrived at last, brought up 
 mainly by my own people, and we then prepared to move 
 onwards. 
 
 Whilst my porters were packing the loads, I obtained from 
 Mohamed bin Saif the following information on the system 
 of agriculture practised by the Watiku. The varieties of 
 metamah known to them are — i. Bechai and Mnagana (both 
 varieties of Sorghum viilgare, or Guinea corn) ; 2. Metamah 
 wa Pembe {Pennisctuin typlioidciiui). The first two appear to
 
 478 TRA\-ELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 be most cultivated, and are most usually found in an ordinary 
 metamah shamba, and take on an average one hundred and 
 ten da)-s from sowing till harvest. The metamah \va Pembe 
 is said to take onl}- sixt}- da)-s, but is smaller and bears a 
 lighter ear. 
 
 I next inquired when the present field would be ripe. He 
 said in about thirt)' days it should be ready for harvest : thus, 
 according to their reckoning, this field would have been sown 
 late in March, and the harvest would take place in the middle 
 of July, a full month earlier than in the Melindi district. 
 Sim-sim is sown as a first crop conjointl)- with metamah. 
 On my asking how many times in the year did they sow 
 it, I was told that no record was kept ; when a field was 
 harvested it was sown a second time, but as far as I could 
 make out, the average is two crops a }'ear — once at the com- 
 mencement of the \\'et season, and again immediately after the 
 metamah harvest. All the sim-sim I saw growing was young 
 and not yet in flower. 
 
 The remainder of the culti\-ating stason is taken up with 
 the growing of beans {kunde), etc. 
 
 Rice the}- cultivate in accordance with the Swahili custom, 
 in any suitable hollow or swamp where water lies. 
 
 Ground-nuts I saw onl\- at Homwe ; the)' do not appear to 
 be largely grown, though the calcareous soil is particular!}' 
 adapted for their cultivation. 
 
 I finall}' got rid of m}' two Watiku guides, Bwana Siri, as I 
 learnt afterwards, telling Nasur as he left that he was ver}- 
 glad that he was no longer our guide, as we should be sure to 
 be attacked b}- the Wa-Boni. 
 
 All being now ready, I bade Mohamed bin Saif what I 
 heartil}- hoped was a final good-bye, and we made our way to 
 the " Dia Kuu," '' the big path," as it is called, leading to the 
 \Va-]^oni countr}-. A Watiku, who said he was going to his 
 rice shambas, accompanied me, together with the Wa-Boni head- 
 man, \\\\o had sat an interested spectator throughout m}- 
 interview with ^Mohamed bin Saif, and who now ottered to lead 
 me to a good camping-place on the other side of the wooded 
 ridge below which the metamah shamba was situated. 
 
 We now travelled over what ma}- be called, for Africa, an
 
 XXV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 479 
 
 excellent path, which my t;uide said was the direct road from 
 the coast into the Wa-I5oni country, leading through thick bush 
 over the ridge called M'Wekundu, a lower range of the 
 Mundane hills. I remained behind to take some bearings — 
 and on descending the ridge found my head-man had 
 established our camp under some fine large trees, the first I 
 had seen for some time, in a flat open country covered with 
 rank high grass and tangled vegetation, with frequent swampy 
 hollows. The soil was a good grey loam. 
 
 The distant sound of slaves shouting to frighten the birds, 
 showed that the Watiku possessed some more shambas round 
 here — chiefly rice-fields, I believe. 
 
 The moment I reached m}' camp m)- interpreter Rashid told 
 me that he had been having a talk with the Wa-Boni head-man, 
 from whom he had learnt some curious information, \iz. 
 Mohamed bin Saif had strongly urged him not to help me or 
 give me an)- information whatever, as I had come into their 
 country with a bad purpose. Rashid believed this to be true, 
 as he had seen the two whispering together. The Watiku 
 who had accompanied us from the shamba had also warned 
 the Wa-Boni head-man against us,. saying that we had come 
 to spoil their countr)-. On hearing this, my head-man, Dumgu, 
 had turned the Watiku out of the camp, and thus matters 
 stood on my arrival. 
 
 I immediately sent for the old Wa-Boni head-man, whose son, 
 a lad of about eighteen, was with him. I began b}' making 
 him a small present, and then asked him what Mohamed bin 
 Saif had been speaking about, but he seemed too frightened 
 to speak. To give him confidence I told him, through my 
 interpreter, all I could think of to convince him of my peaceful 
 intentions, saying that all I wanted was a guide, whom I 
 should treat and pay well, to show me their countr)'. I 
 further offered, if the old man liked, to take his son with me 
 to Lamu, and send him back safel)' with many presents to his 
 people. They listened attentivel)^ to all that was said, but 
 would only say that they would talk the matter over and 
 bring me an answer next day. I had laid stress on the ques- 
 tion of a guide, as Nasur, who was present, said that although 
 he was prepared to follow me anywhere, he did not know the
 
 48o 
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 countr)' on this side of Mundane range very well, and wished 
 to have a Wa-Boni with us. 
 
 As if the day had not been tiring enough, the siafu or 
 soldier ants caused me to spend an equally lively night. It 
 turned out that my tent had been pitched across one of their 
 tracks, and I found that not even fire will turn them out of 
 their course ; three times was I invaded by thousands of them> 
 and before I could get rid of them they had bitten me well ; 
 
 SHAIKI WITH THK. WA-BONI HEAn-MAX. 
 
 every bite is like a red-hot needle running into you, and the 
 little fiends have to be picked off one by one. After the 
 second invasion I had had a ring of fire made round m}- tent, 
 but alas ! at 4 a.m. they suddenly swarmed all over me and 
 my bed again, and it took me some time to get them out of 
 my hair ! They had actually burrowed underneath the fire 
 rather than turn aside out of their course. What with the 
 Watiku and the siafu combined, life just then did not seem 
 worth living, but I could not help laughing at the yells of m\- 
 portcrs, who were likewise suddenK' attacked.
 
 XXV 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 481 
 
 The temperature for this daj- was : — 6 a.m., 64" ; 2 p.m., 
 84 ; 4 p.m., 81 ; 6 p.m., 76 . The place where I camped was 
 called Homwc, and, I reckoned, about thirteen or fourteen 
 miles distant from Kionga. 
 
 The next morning on getting up I was pleased to hear 
 that the old W'a-Boni head-man had not only returned, but 
 brought some of his people with him, amongst them several 
 women, who at first showed great fear of me, as the}- said 
 
 ^iSI§^ 
 
 4 
 
 n 
 
 ^Rrai.' 
 
 ^f^^^ 
 
 
 
 
 A: 
 
 
 ^S 
 
 ^ ^'^^^^^ 
 
 
 «.^^PI 
 
 ""■^^^r^-'asf-^ 
 
 w^^ 
 
 - . - _ -.'.-..,- 
 
 
 
 VVA-BOM WOMEN. 
 
 that I was the first white man the\- had ever seen. The 
 Wa-Boni appear to dress like the W'atiku, wearing the same 
 cotton clothes ; some of the women had silver bracelets on 
 their arms ; they also speak Watiku Swahili, much corrupted 
 from the original language. The men carried bows with 
 poisoned arrows, the heads of these being ver}- broad at the 
 base. I had only just begun to talk to them when, to 
 my utter astonishment, who should suddenl}- arri\-e but 
 
 I I
 
 482 TR.WKL.S IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 Mohamed bin Saif! I received him courteously, and 
 asked him to what I was indebted for this unexpected visit ? 
 He said he had come to look at a rice shamba of his close 
 by, but I think it much more probable that his visit was 
 prompted solely by a strong desire to know what I w^as up to ! 
 
 Mixing so much with these crafty Watiku had begun to 
 make me quite an expert in dissimulation too, so turning to 
 Mohamed bin Saif and pointing to the Wa-Boni, I remarked 
 smilingly that he could not have arrived more opportunely, 
 as I wanted to get a guide from these people, and he could 
 bear witness that my intentions were quite peaceful and 
 honest, my sole wish being to visit and explore the country. 
 
 Mohamed bin Saif was caught in his own net ; he could 
 not in the presence of my interpreter and porters, who were 
 amused onlookers, speak against me before my very face, so, 
 very unwillingly, as I could plainly see, he told the Wa-Boni 
 that I came as Mze Saif's and his own friend, and that they 
 were to give me whatever guides I required to take me where 
 I washed. This was very satisfactory. Mohamed bin Saif 
 got up to go shortly afterwards, and in bidding me good-bye 
 inquired eagerly what I was going to do, and where I proposed 
 going to from here ; to find this out being undoubtedl}' the 
 purport of his visit. 
 
 As soon as he had left I resumed my conference with the 
 Wa-Boni, who had now become much more friendly and at 
 ease. They said the Watiku were stronger than they were, 
 and often proved hard masters, but that Mohamed himself 
 was good to them, one of the younger men adding that 
 Mohamed had given him a gun to shoot elephants. I 
 asked who the ivory belonged to when they killed an 
 elephant. " To the Watiku," they answered. 
 
 I then renewed my request for a guide, but the}- still 
 appeared afraid ; at last, after a good deal of palavering, the 
 old head-man, who was called Gomo, exclaimed : " Show me 
 the presents you are going to give me, and I will then go 
 back to my village and bring a guide." I called privately to 
 Nasur, my Arab guide, to know whether I could trust them, 
 as after receiving my presents I might never see them again ; 
 Nasur, however, said they might be trusted, so I accordingly
 
 XXV 
 
 travp:ls in kast Africa 
 
 483 
 
 presented them with the following-, which I spread out before 
 them — 
 
 10 rupees in money, 
 
 I large tin full of sugar, 
 
 I load of rice, 
 
 I table-knife, 
 
 I tumbler, 
 
 I looking-glass, 
 
 and some empty medicine-bottles. 
 
 MY PRESENTS TO THE WA-BONI. 
 
 The Wa-Boni were delighted, and the old man shook me 
 vigorously by the hand, saying — " Let me go back to my 
 village ; you stop here to-day, and I will bring my own son 
 to guide you to-morrow." So this was settled, and the 
 Wa-Boni departed in high good-humour. Late in the 
 afternoon Mohamed bin Saif returned. He asked no 
 questions as to what I had settled with the Wa-Boni, 
 probably having already found out all about it, and for all I 
 knew, had very likely been at their village. In any case I
 
 484 TR.WELS IN P:ASr AFRICA chap. 
 
 felt sure he had tried his utmost to stop or hinder my plans 
 in some way. After a brief rest he went away, and I bade 
 him this time a final farewell. 
 
 I made my preparations for an early start next day, and 
 was kept bus)' re-packing my loads, of which I had to leave 
 twent}--one behind me, and to send back for them from my 
 next camp, in the meanwhile leaving three askaris in charge. 
 I took care, remembering the siafu ants, to have my tent 
 re-pitched in another place. The surrounding country was 
 not very picturesque, and I was struck with the numbers of 
 euphorbias or candelabra trees growing about here. The 
 temperature this day was — 6 a.m., 71', rainy; 4 p.m., 79, 
 rainy ; 6 p.m., 72', rain at night. 
 
 We had everything in readiness early next morning, but 
 there was no sign of the Wa-Boni guide, and I was just about 
 to send Nasur off to look for him, when the old man arrived. 
 He explained the delay, saying that at the last minute his 
 son had been afraid to go, so he had come instead (I wonder 
 if Mohamed bin Saif had anything to do with this ?). 
 We eventually got awa)' at 9 a.m., proceeding for the first 
 mile parallel with the Mundane hills, all thickly wooded, and 
 lying about a couple of miles away on my left. The country 
 was at first grassy and park-like, studded with low trees, 
 lanky euphorbias, and clumps of bush. The grass was very 
 luxuriant and high ; the lay of the country very flat, with 
 numerous swamps — excellently adapted for either rice cultiva- 
 tion or American rubber — the soil a rich black to dark grey 
 loam. Half-an-hour beyond, my eyes were at last gladdened 
 by the sight of actual forest ahead, my porters all turning round 
 and shouting out to me — " Big trees, big trees at last ! " 
 
 Before reaching it, however, we had to wade through an 
 extensive grassy swamp, the water being well over our knees, 
 and it took us a good half-hour to get through it. 
 Emerging from this we entered the forest of fine large trees, 
 growing closely together ; round the stems of many, india- 
 rubber vines (^Landolphice) were climbing. We had to cut our 
 way through the thick undergrowth, and came out on another 
 large swamp beyond, the water in places being over 3 feet 
 deep ; into this we went, and waded across, keeping the forest
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 48: 
 
 on our right. The swamp was covered with high gras?, the 
 soil being the same rich black to dark grey loam. Leaving 
 this and the forest behind, we entered on more open country 
 with much euphorbia, low bush clumps, and occasional large 
 trees, passing shortly afterwards a well-worn path, which our 
 old guide said led to Itembe — we were now following a 
 Wa-Boni track — but on starting we were taken a long detour 
 to avoid passing through some Watiku shambas. 
 
 IN THE WAliUM CUL N 1 KY — WAITINi; F(JK (;UIDKS. 
 
 From here onwards the country continued open, grassy, 
 and slightly undulating, with bush clumps and scattered large 
 trees, amongst which I recognized once more the familiar 
 Hypha^ne palms. The land was still very flat, and we 
 passed through numberless swamps, some of large size, and 
 generally covered with a thick growth of grass, often 5 feet high. 
 The soil everywhere appeared very fertile, and judging by the 
 numerous dead tree-stumps we had passed, the relics of 
 former Watiku cultivation, I am inclined to believe that the
 
 486 IK.WKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 whole of this countr)' must at one time have been covered 
 with forest. 
 
 At I p.m. we entered another fringe of thick forest, 
 indiarubber vines being very numerous, and some as thick as 
 m}- arm ; large game tracks also abounded, particularly buffalo, 
 though I did not see any of the animals themselves. Coming 
 out of this, we entered once more on a low, flat, park-like 
 countr}-, with frequent traces of former cultivation, and finally, 
 at 2.30 p.m., reached a Wa-Boni village, a mere cluster of two 
 or three huts, camping under a large tamarind tree. On 
 remarking on the small number of huts, old Gomo informed 
 me that it was the W'a-Boni custom ; all the men living here 
 were away just now collecting rubber. 
 
 Having to send back for the twent)'-one loads left behind, 
 I had purposel}' made a short march this day. The im- 
 possibility of purchasing food as I went proved a great 
 hindrance to rapid marching, as I had necessaril}- to carr)- all 
 my supplies with me. After my people had had a rest, I 
 picked out twenty-one porters, and sent them back under an 
 escort with Xasur as guide; they were to sleep at my last 
 camp and bring on the loads in the morning, I remaining here 
 until the}- returned. I spent the rest of the da}* in talking 
 to old Gomo, who also brought his brother to see me, he being 
 the head of this small W'a-Boni settlement which he called 
 Kave. They gave me much interesting information about 
 themselves and this portion of the countr}-. 
 
 From what I gathered, it appears the Wa-Boni undoubtedly 
 fear the W'atiku, who consider themselves their masters, 
 employing them to watch their outl}-ing shambas and the 
 slaves working upon them ; they have besides to hunt and 
 bring back an}- slaves that ma}- run awa}-. As there are no 
 runaway-slave settlements up here, the fugitive slaves generally 
 make for the various W'a-Boni villages. If there is any delay 
 in catching runaways the head W'a-Pjoni of the nearest village 
 is taken down to the coast and kept in chains as a hostage till 
 the slaves are caught. The Wa-Boni have also to lead all 
 the Watiku rubber-gatherers to the likeliest places, and they 
 general!}- live in the Watiku villages during their stay. 
 
 The Wa-Boni are not cultivators, but spend all their time
 
 XXV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 487 
 
 either in collecting rubber, or in hunting, and whenever they 
 kill an elephant, one tusk is claimed by and has to be given 
 up to the Watiku. At harvest-time it is their custom to go 
 down to the Watiku shambas and help in the reaping of the. 
 crops ; they are paid in grain for their work. 
 
 Judging from their extensive shambas, the Watiku must 
 possess numerous slaves, and this may_have been the principal 
 reason for their strong objection to my passing through their 
 shambas ; they would naturally wish to keep this fact hidden 
 from the observation of a European, especiall}' one in the 
 service of the Company. Both my interpreter and head-man, 
 under my instructions, talked to these slaves whenever the}- got 
 a chance, and from what they told me, the majorit}' of them 
 were Wa-Kamba, Wa-Druma, but chiefly Wa-Teita, but how or 
 when they came they had no remembrance. 
 
 As to the country, they confirmed my surmise that all 
 this land was originally forest, which was destroyed by the 
 Watiku in making their shambas ; the annual burning of grass 
 and bush in the dry season forms a constant check on the 
 growth of vegetation. The country to the west and north-west 
 was also originally forest, which still exists to a small extent ; 
 thus a strip of forest is followed by open country, with another 
 stretch of forest, and so on. Wherever there is forest, india- 
 rubber is plentiful ; even in the smallest patch the vines are to 
 be found. To the north the country is chiefly open, and anyone 
 proceeding for ten days' march in that direction would come 
 to the land of the Wa-Galla and Somalis. The Wa-Boni do not 
 go there, not because they are afraid, but because it is too far off. 
 
 Old Gomo then told me that he was very sorry, but he 
 must go back to-morrow, as Mohamed bin Saif was his lord 
 and master, and that he had one of his shambas to watch, but 
 his brother would lead me to-morrow to another Wa-Boni 
 village, at two hours' distance from here, where the people 
 knew all the country thoroughly even up to Jongeni, and that 
 I would be furnished with fresh guides from there. To this I 
 agreed. 
 
 The weather had again broken, and it had rained more or 
 less during this day and the day before ; not onl}' were my 
 clothes constantly wet, both from the rain and the numerous
 
 488 TR.W'ELS IN KAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 swamps I had waded through, but my waterproof sheet 
 having come to grief, my mattress and blanket were generally 
 sopping wet too, and I made the best of matters by rolling 
 myself in my blanket, previously dried before the fire. 
 
 To-day's temperature (June 19) was — 6 a.m., 71" ; 4 p.m., 79 ;. 
 6 p.m., 71'. Showery day, rain at night. 
 
 To .pass the time till my porters returned with their loads^ 
 I started off early next morning, accompanied by my head- 
 man Dumgu, for a hunt after game, and also to explore the 
 surrounding country. For the first mile and a half we 
 followed the track we had travelled over yesterday. I then 
 struck off to the south and south-east, continuing in that 
 direction for about two hours, till we came in sight of the 
 Mundane hills, running in one long unbroken line in an east 
 to west direction, with here and there a higher peak breaking 
 the uniformity of the range, which throughout appeared 
 thickly wooded. 
 
 The general appearance of the country was park-like, but 
 this is not uniform in all cases : in some places the traces of 
 the original forest were much more apparent, the trees and 
 bush growing closer together being finer and larger. Taking" 
 it as a whole, it is a rich country, with a fine fertile soil. 
 Towards the north-west the forest-like appearance is much 
 more marked and noticeable, and the country if left alone would 
 doubtless very soon revert to its original state ; but, as I have 
 said, the annual grass fires prevent this. The lay of the land 
 is very filat, and small marshy hollows are very frequent, rich 
 luxuriant grass covering the open country everywhere. 
 
 I also noticed a great deal of muaiiga (arrowroot) ; it was 
 generally growing beneath the shade of the larger trees, some 
 of the plants being very fine and luxuriant. Game tracks 
 were numerous, and I saw eight topi, but they were too wild for 
 me to get a shot at them. 
 
 On our way back Dumgu killed a snake, a nasty-looking 
 beast, which we nearly walked over ; I heard a hiss, and looking" 
 down saw it coiled up almost under my feet. I got back to 
 camp about noon, and found the party of porters had returned 
 with the loads an hour before. The corporal, who with an 
 askari had also gone off after game, reported that he had gone
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 489 
 
 in a northerly direction, and at an hour's distance from camp 
 had come upon thick bush or forest, where he had seen a 
 good deal of rubber, of which he brought me a sample. On 
 examination it proved to be LandolpJiia Kirkii, yielding the 
 pink variety, the most valuable kind commercially. 
 
 Rubber is certainly very plentiful all around here, and 
 wherever there is a clump of trees large enough to support 
 and shelter the vines, there they will be found growing, but 
 many vines must be killed annually by excessive tapping, for 
 there is no regular s}'stem of collecting the juice. Bands of 
 men, all Watiku, rove throughout the countr\-, and where the 
 vines are easily got at, they are indiscriminately tapped ; I 
 saw some growing in a forest clump close to my camp which 
 had been greatly hacked and cut about. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon I set out for the next 
 Wa-Boni village, Gomo's brother being now our guide, Gomo 
 having returned to his own village early in the morning. 
 Our direction was south-west, and the characteristics of the 
 country much the same as already described — scattered fine 
 timber trees with occasional clumps of forest, the soil a rich 
 grey loam. On the way we passed through some old Watiku 
 shambas of last year's cultivation, with the remains of two 
 W'a-Boni villages close by, thus confirming what I had been 
 told as to the Wa-Boni being compelled to watch over the 
 W^atiku shambas. 
 
 At four o'clock we arrived at the next Wa-Boni village, 
 which was, as I have been told, exactly two hours' march 
 from Kave, our way having latterly led through much thicker 
 forest, which appeared to extend for some distance to our 
 right. I encamped a little outside the village, being the 
 object of much curiosity to the inhabitants. As soon as the 
 tent was pitched and the loads piled, I called for volunteers 
 to go back for the seventeen loads left behind at Kave, offer- 
 ing one rupee extra pay as an inducement, upon which the 
 porters came forward in a body. Their willingness pleased 
 me so much that I promised to give a couple of rupees to 
 each of the seventeen men I picked out, who went off re- 
 joicing with six askaris as escort. Several of the porters were 
 armed.
 
 490 TR.WKLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAF. 
 
 I then had a talk with the Wa-Boni of this village, and also 
 with two Watiku rubber-gatherers from Dodori, who happened 
 to be here at the time. Dodori, the}- said, was one day's 
 march from here. They also spoke of a river flowing close 
 by, containing numerous hippo; on making further inquiries 
 concerning this, they said it was the river which ran into 
 Dodori creek, evidently the same spoken of by the people at 
 Vaas as flowing from the Mundane hills to the sea. This 
 was \ery interesting news, and as I had then a good deal to 
 do mapping and writing out my notes, I despatched my 
 interpreter Rashid to have a look at it. He soon returned to 
 sa)^ that the river was only a few minutes away, and that it 
 was fairly wide. 
 
 This was another rainy day, the third in succession, the 
 temperature being — 
 
 Frequent showers during the day, and 
 it also rained hea\-ily during the night. 
 
 6 a.m., 70 
 10 a.m., 79 
 12 noon, 80' 
 
 4 p.m., 79. 
 
 6 p.m., yi J 
 
 I was off the first thing next morning to have a look at this 
 unknown river, a W^a-Boni going with me to show me the way. 
 As Rashid had told me, it was quite close, in fact, just below the 
 \-illage. \\'here I first saw it, the clear, winding stream flowing 
 between low banks, fringed on both sides with a belt of thick 
 forest, the vivid greenery of the overhanging trees contrasting 
 with the placid stream below, made quite a beautiful and 
 striking picture, almost English and home-like in its effect. 
 It was of an average width of full)' 80 feet, and, as the 
 Wa-Boni informed me, fairly deep. It is said to flow from the 
 Galla countr}', many da}'s' march away, and never dries. It 
 continues hence in a winding course towards the sea, opening 
 out into a lake before it finally falls into the Dodori creek; 
 hippo were reported to be numerous, but there were no 
 crocodiles. 
 
 As Dodori is the \-illage situated nearest to its mouth, I 
 have made this river the " Dodori." 
 
 On returning to the village I found fresh trouble awaiting
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 491 
 
 me. The Wa-Boni came to say that they were afraid to give 
 me guides, giving as their reason the rather startUng informa- 
 tion that Fumo Omari, the rebel chief of Witu, was master 
 here, and would be very angrj- with them if he came to hear 
 of their helping me. This was rather alarming intelligence, 
 as the outlaw was the declared enemj- of all Europeans. 
 
 However, with the help of old Gomo's brother, I eventually 
 prevailed upon the Wa-Boni to furnish me two guides, two of 
 
 THE DODOKI RIVKR. 
 
 their }-oung men, who, I could see, consented with unwilling- 
 ness. I gave the village people a load of rice as a present, 
 and the\- speciall)- asked for cloths of the following varieties, 
 Debwane, Sohari, and Sabaia, which I was unable to give 
 them. 
 
 From further inquiries it appeared that the Watiku influ- 
 ence ceases here, it now being to Fumo Omari that the 
 second tusk of every slain elephant has to be given up. 
 Many of the Wa-Boni carry guns, which have been given to
 
 4'P 
 
 TRAXKLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 CHAP 
 
 thcni by l^'umo Oiiiari f(jr killing elephants. Jongeni was 
 said U) be only three days' march away, Fumo Omari's 
 askaris patrol all this part of the countr)-, and even on 
 occasions go up as far as Burkau. 
 
 My seventeen porters had by this time safely returned, so 
 I proposed starting forward again about noon. Whilst I was 
 taking an early breakfast, Rashid suddenly appeared with 
 the news that ten armed men had suddenly appeared in the 
 
 Aillaee ! 
 
 THK nonoKI K1\I-'.K. 
 
 I told him to bring them to me at once ; they presently 
 sauntered up in the most free-and-easy manner. In reply to 
 my questions they said they were indiarubber gatherers who 
 had come from Kionga, and that they were now on their way 
 back to Faza. I professed to be satisfied, and they retired. 
 Rashid said he was sure this was all lies, as he and the cor- 
 poral had recognized the two leaders of the party, one of 
 whom was no less than Mohamed Bafaro, the brother of 
 Avatula of Jongeni, one of the princijial leaders of Fumo
 
 XXV TR.W'ELS IX EAST AFRICA 493 
 
 Omari's men, the other being Amadi Koropana, another 
 well-known bad character, whom Rashid had noticed in 
 Mohamed bin Saif's following at Homwc metamah shamba. 
 This man Amadi had also been at Jongeni, and had lately 
 been imprisoned b}- Mr. Rogers at Lamu. 
 
 Rashid presently got hold of Gomo's brother and ques- 
 tioned him further about these men ; he confessed that it was 
 unusual for a part}' of professed rubber-gatherers to carry so 
 man}- guns. I could not see that anything could be done 
 about this, except to be on the alert, so my loads being 
 packed I prepared to start at the time I had already fixed. 
 As I found we had to cross the Dodori, I arranged to carr}' 
 as man}- loads as I could to the river, impressing all m}- 
 askaris as well as porters, and then sending back again for a 
 few loads that were left behind. We got away at 12.30 p.m., 
 the armed part}- of W'atiku remaining in the village watching 
 our departure. The path led off through the forest, with fine 
 trees growing thick!}- and closel}- together; here again I 
 noticed a good man}- rubber vines. Emerging from this, we 
 proceeded through alternate b^lts of forest and grass glades, 
 some of the latter ver}- swamp}- and low, a thick fringe of 
 forest continuing on m}- right. The course of the Dodori, 
 along which I was marching, could be traced b}' the belt of 
 forest growing upon its banks. Occasional clumps of ebon}- 
 trees were to be seen here and there in the more open countr}-, 
 which, with its scattered fine trees and undulating downs, 
 covered with bright green grass, made up a charming land- 
 scape. 
 
 At two o'clock the path reached the river, which our guides, 
 who had been very sullen, said was here crossed b}- a tree 
 purposely felled across. Here I halted, and immediately sent 
 back the number of porters required to bring on the loads left 
 at the village, and as I feared possible trouble, I sent the 
 corporal in charge of them, whilst I remained to supervise the 
 crossing of the river. The stream here was 4 feet deep and 
 from 20 to 25 feet wide, and quite overgrown with overhang- 
 ing trees and creepers. 
 
 As the guides told us there might be crocodiles, we at first 
 attempted to cross by the tree, but it was quite impossible to
 
 494 TK.WEL.S IN EAST AFRICA chai'. 
 
 carry the loads this way, so I jumped in the water, and finding 
 that nothing happened, they all eventually waded across. 
 Leaving Dumgu, an askari, and one of theWa-Boni to guide 
 the corporal with his party of porters across, the rest of us 
 proceeded. 
 
 After advancing a little way, I was sure the guide was not 
 taking us right. I called a halt and again told the guide my 
 wishes, that I wanted to go towards the north and north-west, 
 whereas he was leading me due south. He said no, but that 
 the path wound about a great deal. I felt sure, however, 
 that he was playing me false, and I ordered a return to the 
 river, where we got back at four o'clock. Here I camped, the 
 corporal and party of porters arriving just as we were 
 unpacking the loads. He made the following report — 
 
 He found the armed party still in the village, and they 
 showed great interest in the guns carried by my men, asking 
 what kind they were, and how many we had, and also 
 inquiring repeatedly where we were going to. To this the 
 corporal very properly replied that he did not know — this lay 
 with me, his duty was to obey orders. 
 
 The corporal then pretended to start off, but when he had 
 gone about half-a-mile he returned to the village, where he 
 found the ten men had suddenly departed ; on asking where, 
 the Wa-Boni said half of them had gone off towards Jongeni, 
 to meet a party of askaris reported to be one day's march 
 from the village, the other five had gone to Homwe. Hearing 
 this, he had hurried on to tell me. This was sufficiently 
 startling, but now followed another complication. The two 
 Wa-Boni guides, on being asked, refused point-blank to lead 
 me in the direction I wished to proceed, which was to follow 
 the Dodori to its source, keeping in a X.N.W. direction. 
 They said they only knew of one path, the one we travelled 
 over yesterday, and if I wanted to go elsewhere, not only 
 would they not come, but they would return at once to their 
 village. 
 
 I called up Dumgu, Rashid, and the corporal, and put the 
 matter before them. Dumgu remarked that all the porters 
 were saying we were betrayed by the Watiku to Fumo Omari, 
 and would shortly be attacked by the latter. I told my head-
 
 XXV 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 495 
 
 men that it was only fair to tell them what I thought of the 
 matter, for it affected us all equally. 
 
 We might easily establish a fortified camp here, garrison it 
 with some of the askaris and armed porters, leaving in it 
 whatever loads we could not carry, and then push on with 
 the rest of the porters towards the N.W. for as long as 
 our provisions would last out. But, as we might be from ten 
 to fifteen days away, there was the fear that on our return we 
 
 LOOKING DOWN THE DODORI RIVER. 
 
 might find the camp in the possession of Fumo Omari. The 
 Watiku were manifestly hostile, and the Wa-Boni appeared in 
 equal terror of both, and it appeared evident that an under- 
 standing of some sort existed between the Watiku and 
 Jongeni people. 
 
 Last of all, there was the added danger of Suliman bin 
 
 • Abdulla's presence at Jongeni. He was the former owner of 
 
 the Magarini shambas. This man's hatred to Europeans was 
 
 well known, as well as his often declared wish to possess a
 
 496 TR.WKLS IN EAST AFRICA chap. 
 
 white man in chains. I was particularly objectionable to 
 him from my connection with the shambas. What could my 
 small force of ten askaris and only twenty-three guns do 
 against the thousands of well-armed men that Fumo Omari 
 could bring against me ? My three head-men admitted this 
 was true, but declared their readiness to follow wherever I 
 should go. I thanked them, but said I thought it wiser to 
 fall back, adding, " We will go on to the coast, but quietly, 
 not as if we were afraid." This decision was announced to 
 the porters, and we started on the morrow for the coast by 
 short marches, to allow time to send back for the extra loads 
 as usual. 
 
 The weather had fortunatel}' cleared up again, and the 
 sunshine was an agreeable change after so much rain. The 
 temperature this day (June 21) was — 6 a.m., 70' ; 12 noon, 84" ; 
 6 p.m., 73\ 
 
 Next morning at 6 a.m. the thermometer again stood at 
 64', the air feeling fresh and sharp. We were now bound for 
 the coast, and as we started off at 7 a.m. I could not help a 
 feeling of keen regret as I looked back towards the unex- 
 plored country to the N.W. I had to leave fifteen loads 
 behind, which we piled up under a large tree in one of the 
 forest clumps close by our camp. Shortly after we started 
 one of the Wa-Boni guides pretended to be very ill, asking 
 leave to go back to his village, but I would not allow this ; I 
 gave him some brand}', and said we would wait until he got 
 better, upon which his recovery was quite marvellous! He 
 no doubt wished to give news of our change of plans. 
 
 For the next two hours our march continued \\ithout further 
 incident through the same flat, park-like countr}-, with 
 occasional large trees and patches of forest, in most of which 
 rubber vine was to be found ; the soil was good, chiefly a rich 
 loamy black, and the ground was covered every^\'here with 
 thick coarse grass 2 to 3 feet high. Swampy hollows were as 
 numerous as ever, but by this time I had got quite used 
 to wading through them, though my last pair of boots were 
 beginning, alas ! to show decided signs of wear. 
 
 Traces of old shambas were numerous, and from the large 
 number of dead tree-stumps everywhere, there could be no
 
 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 497 
 
 doubt that all the country must also have been covered with 
 thick forest at one time. At nine o'clock we were again 
 startled by seeing a large body of men coming towards us ; 
 my porters had by this time got Fumo Omari on the brain to 
 such an extent that they imagined they saw armed askaris 
 at e\ery turn. 
 
 I halted my people to recei^'e the new-comers, who proved 
 to be nothing more formidable than a safari or caravan, 
 numbering fifty-three people, going up from Dodori to gather 
 indiarubber. They said that they were proceeding to a forest 
 called Gararen situated on the Dodori river, two days' march- 
 ing distance from the village of that name. This forest is 
 said to extend for a distance of two or three clays' march, one 
 man even saying that it went almost up to Burkau. I thought 
 this a good opportunity of disposing of the fifteen bags of rice 
 left behind, which the head-man gladly consented to buy, as 
 they proposed stopping one month to gather rubber. He said 
 rubber was very plentiful there. I accordingly sent Rashid 
 and two askaris back to measure and hand over the rice, the 
 head-man waiting with me till they returned, upon which he 
 handed me a signed order on Lamu, and we then resumed our 
 respecti\-e ways. This transaction was a great relief to me, as 
 the constant sending backwards and forwards for the spare 
 loads had proved a great hindrance, besides being very trying 
 for the porters. 
 
 At noon we arrived at a Wa-Boni village situated in a thick 
 belt of forest, where I camped, for I was beginning to feel the 
 effects of all the exposure and constant wetting, combined 
 with the recent anxiety and worr)-. This day (June 22) was 
 again fine, the temperature being — 6 a.m., 64' ; 12 noon, 84^ ; 
 6 p.m., 75\ 
 
 I was \ery seedy in the night with fever, and felt very weak 
 at starting next morning. We got two Wa-Boni from here, 
 having vainly tried to induce my guides of yesterday to come 
 on to Lamu with me. I should have liked to convince them, 
 not only of our good intentions towards their tribe, but also of 
 our power to crush Fumo Omari, and if necessar}- the Watiku 
 people as well. 
 
 The country was at first much the same in appearance as
 
 498 
 
 TRAVELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 that passed over yesterday, but if anything more forest-like ; 
 the lay of the land still very flat and low, with the usual 
 swamps overgrown with high grass, which, saturated with 
 dew, wetted one thoroughly as one passed through. About 
 three miles further on the characteristics changed entirely ; 
 the country now became covered with thick Hyphaene palm 
 woods intermixed with occasional belts of other forest trees, 
 and scattered open grass glades ; these were very low and 
 
 LAST CAMP IN THE WA-BOM COUNTRY. 
 
 swampy. I had also noticed several clumps of ebon}' trees 
 growing here and there, the soil being as a rule a light friable 
 grey. 
 
 It was just about here that I heard shouts ahead. I was 
 some little distance behind, taking bearings ; hurrying up, I 
 found that one of the porters, who had strayed off the path, 
 had been attacked by wild dogs, which our approach 
 frightened away ; no harm had been done beyond the man's 
 clothes being badly torn. I went off after them, but could not
 
 TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 499 
 
 find them, and presently heard the hovvh'ng of the pack 
 some distance away. 
 
 We continued through much the same description of 
 country, thick Hyphixne palm woods continuing on every 
 side, till, after wading through an unusually large and rather 
 deep swamp, which took us nearly an hour to get through, I 
 quite collapsed on the other side, being sick, feverish, and 
 quite done up. It was then nearly one o'clock. After half- 
 an-hour's rest, I struggled on again over a flat swampy plain, 
 the Hypha;ne palms becoming scarcer as I got nearer the 
 coast, having most probably been cut down by former 
 cultivators, traces of old shambas being now very frequent. 
 At 2.30 p.m. we came upon a small river flowing across our 
 path, the water only about 6 inches deep, and 30 feet wide, 
 and the banks about 5 feet high. Crossing it, we found 
 ourselves on a flat open plain of low bush, with a small hill 
 right ahead. After wading through several more swamps, 
 and crossing the river twice again, we arrived at the ridge, 
 descending which we found ourselves in a fine valley covered 
 with metamah fields, through the centre of which the river 
 flowed. At last we arrived once more at Kiongwe about 
 3.30 p.m., my porters and askaris laughing and shouting 
 with joy as they entered the village, for all their troubles and 
 wanderings were now over. 
 
 I felt so ill that I resolved to push on as quickly as I 
 could to Lamu, as I was afraid of breaking down completely 
 before I got there ; so after a brief halt we went on to 
 Shimbwe, which we reached at 5 p.m., and I camped there, I 
 paid off my two Wa-Boni guides, giving each one a good 
 present, so I think their first intercourse with a white man 
 was of a satisfactory nature. I was very sorry not to have 
 seen more of this interesting and evidently much down- 
 trodden tribe. 
 
 My last thermometer readings in the Wa-Boni country were 
 (June 23)— 
 
 6 a.m., 68 1 ,,. 
 
 4 p.m., 78° J 
 
 6 p.m., 76° (Shimbwe).
 
 500 
 
 TR.WKLS IN EAST AFRICA 
 
 I started early next day for Wange, having sent two 
 askaris on the night before to engage boats to take us across 
 the Mongoni creek. I arrived at Wange at 9 a.m., two hours 
 after leaving Shimbwe ; we had passed over a rich and fertile 
 area, covered in parts with thick Hyph.tne palm woods, and 
 also passed through some extensive rice-fields. The country 
 much resembles that lying between Wange, M'Kauoni, and 
 Shimbwe. Crossing the creek took a very long time, as we 
 had onl}' a couple of ver}- small canoes, and the sea being 
 
 THE FORT— MOMBASA. 
 
 rough, we could onl}- send a (e\v people and loads at a time. 
 
 1 crossed the last, reaching Makumba on the other side at 
 
 2 p.m. After twent}- minutes' halt we went on to IM'Gini, 
 over a flat swampy countr}", through thick belts of H}-pha:;ne 
 palms and many fan palms and low bush, all growing in 
 gre}- loam)' soil ; then after crossing a shallow sea-creek, and 
 ascending a low ridge bej-ond, we travelled across a low flat 
 grass country with scattered bush. The soil was of a grey 
 to black loam, with numerous tracks of big game, lion and
 
 XXV TRAVELS IN EAST AFRICA 501 
 
 buffalo, etc., in it. We reached M'Gini at 4 p.m., and the 
 moment my tent was pitched I went strai^^ht to bed. The 
 next morning I could not move, it was a clean collapse, so I 
 had to remain in bed the whole of the day. I sent off half of my 
 porters with all the askaris under charge of the corporal to 
 Lamu, with a letter to Rogers announcing my return, and 
 asking him to send my letters up to Jipe, where I hoped to 
 camp next day, I pas.sed a miserable night, and on the after- 
 noon of the following day started for Jipe. I was unable to 
 hire a donkey to ride, and being too weak to walk, was obliged 
 to be carried by my porters, but after an hour's experience of 
 that mode, I found myself so terribly jolted that I preferred to 
 stagger along ; so sending all but my faithful Dumgu and my 
 .servant ahead, I eventually managed, with their help, to reach 
 Jipe. Here I rested another day, and then started on my 
 last march to Lamu on June 28. Great was my gratitude 
 and pleasure on reaching Makowe to find that Mr, Rogers had 
 come to meet me in the steam launch. Dr. Rae of Witu being 
 also with him, I was soon comfortably established in Rogers' 
 hospitable house in Lamu, where I was able to recover a little 
 from the fatigues and hardships of our long tramp of 300 
 miles in the bush. 
 
 I remained at Lamu until July 7, when I went on to 
 Zanzibar in the B.I. S.N. Co.'s steamer Java, after a hearty 
 good-bye from Rogers, who came to see me off, and whose 
 cordial kindness and hospitality I shall never forget. The 
 Java stopping at Mombasa on her way, I was just able to 
 pay off the balance of my porters, for when I got to Zanzibar 
 I broke down completely with a bad attack of fever, com- 
 plicated with inflammation of the lungs. The doctor wished 
 to send me to the hospital, but Captain Wake, second in 
 command of the Sultan's troops, not only insisted on taking 
 me to his house, but actually gave up his own bed for my 
 use ; indeed I have very pleasant recollections of man\' 
 kindnesses received from all. 
 
 When I left Zanzibar they were already beginning their 
 preparations for the final attack on Fumo Omari's stronghold, 
 which, with the co-operation of the naval contingent furnished 
 from the men-of-war on the station, was destined to be so
 
 502 
 
 TR.WELS IX EAST AFRICA 
 
 successful. Rogers was the first to enter Jongeni, closely 
 followed by Captain Wake, who was severely wounded, but 
 I am f^lad to sa)- he recovered completely after a visit 
 home. 
 
 M}' faithful Dumgu had followed me to Zanzibar, and 
 proved a most watchful sick nurse. He implored me to take 
 him with me to England, and cried like a child when he bade 
 me good-b\-e. It is always pleasant to ha\"e been able to 
 
 HOMEWARD BOLND. 
 
 inspire de\otion like this, no matter what the man's colour 
 may be, and Dumgu's unselfish loyalt\' during all the time 
 that he was with me could not be surpassed. 
 
 I also gladl}' pay a fitting and deser\-ed tribute to m\- 
 porters, who for endurance and other good cjualities ha\e 
 not an equal an\-where. The)- had accompanied me in all 
 my wanderings, and cheerfully and loj-all)' followed me 
 through many hardships and sufferings. I was alwa}s kind 
 and just to them. It is a mistake to think that harshness
 
 ITf
 
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 TRA\'ELS IN EAST AFRICA 503 
 
 is necessary in dealing with the African native. I always 
 found them willing and obedient. 
 
 1 was well enough to be carried on board the Java when 
 she left on her return vo}'age to Aden, and her commander, 
 Ca[jtain Frohawk, being an old friend, I was well taken care 
 of I transhipped at Aden to the P. and O. steamer Britannia, 
 finalh^ reaching England, after a pleasant vo)'age, on August 
 .12, 1893.
 
 Part II.— ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND CLIMATOLOGY OF ZANZIBAR 
 
 In search of an Hotel— Sir Lloyd Mathews — Interview with the Sultan — 
 Kinabuni Garden— Sketch of Zanzibar Island— Position— Structure 
 and Soil — Rain-fall and Temperature — My Plans. 
 
 On Wednesday, March i6, 1892, I arrived at Zanzibar at 
 daybreak, having made the passage from ^Mombasa in the 
 s.s. Ethiopia, and, like all persons approaching it from the 
 sea, I was struck by the handsome appearance of this tropical 
 island-town, with its frontage of white houses, public buildings 
 and mosques, which conceal the lower portions of the town 
 from view, whilst rising conspicuous above all are the tall 
 clock-tower, the large square palace of the Sultan,^ and the 
 British and foreign Consulates. 
 
 Hearing that her Majesty's Agent and Consul-General, the 
 late Sir Gerald Portal, was leaving at 9 a.m. for Mombasa, 
 I went ashore at 7.30, and had a brief interview with him ; 
 he regretted the necessity of his departure, but had advised 
 the Sultan of my expected arrival, and had requested an 
 interview for me. 
 
 After returning to the Ethiopia for breakfast, I again came 
 on shore, this time with my belongings and the five porters 
 I had brought with me from Mombasa, and to my surprise 
 made quite a sensation as I proceeded through the town in 
 
 ^ Both these buildings have since been almost completely destroyed 
 by the bombardment from our ships during the brief usurpation of 1896. 
 
 505
 
 5o6 ZANZIHAR AND PKMBA K\ia ii 
 
 quest of an hotel, escorted by my porters carrying my travel- 
 ling impedimenta, tent, loads, old baskets, lamp, bucket, 
 flag, etc., our procession seeming to excite a lively curiosit}- ! 
 The first hotel I went to was luckih- shut, for I did not like 
 its appearance, and I started my procession again to another, 
 at which I was more fortunate, and found myself made fairl)- 
 comfortable under the auspices of a manageress speaking 
 not less than eight languages ! Here I engaged the extra 
 number of porters required — ahva}-s a troublesome business — 
 and after a visit to Mr. Weaver, whom I found being well 
 looked after b}- the nuns at the French hospital, I had an 
 interview with the Sultan's Prime ]\'Iinister, General Sir Lloyd 
 ]\Iathews. I found him extremely kind and courteous, and 
 much appreciated the personal interest which he e\inced in 
 the object of m}' visit, and his readiness to facilitate m}' 
 proceedings in every way. Sir LIonxI made some valuable 
 suggestions as to the places I should visit ; and advised me 
 to call on Pere Sacleux, a French priest who had been all 
 over the island. When I called on him two days after- 
 wards he received me cordial!}-, and showed me the rough 
 draft of a new map he had made, and furnished me with 
 man}- \-aluable suggestions and hints which I found most 
 useful afterwards. After m}- interview with Sir Llo}-d 
 Mathews I returned to m}- quarters. The weather was 
 excessively hot. 
 
 At ten o'clock next morning I went with Sir Llo}'d 
 to the palace, and was introduced to the Sultan (Seyyid 
 AH bin Said), who received me at the top of the stairs 
 outside the Durbar-hall, which overlooks the harbour. We 
 sat round a table (General JMathews acting as interpreter 
 between his Highness and m}-seir), and we had a con- 
 versation of over an hour's duration. The Sultan evinced 
 much interest in m}- visit, and asked me man}- questions as 
 to what the Imperial British East Africa Compan}- intended 
 doing on the mainland. Like a true Arab, he expressed 
 doubts as to the results of an introduction of ploughs ; the}- 
 would never do in Zanzibar, because there were too man}- 
 coco-nut trees ! His Highness kindly placed at my disposal 
 the Chueni Palace, his countr^--seat about seven miles from
 
 CHAP. 1 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 507 
 
 Zanzibar, a handsome building close to the sea, where he 
 has a ver}' extensive clove plantation. One of his carriages 
 was ordered to take me there next day, and the head -overseer 
 was directed to give me all information required, and to 
 accompan}- me oxer the estate. 
 
 The day before leaving Zanzibar I visited the Sultan's 
 shamba or garden at Kinabuni, with General Mathews. It 
 is more of a garden than a plantation, being enclosed by 
 walls on ever)- side. It contains a house. The garden was 
 made, and the house built, and much used, by Sultan 
 Seyyid Barghash, the great Sultan of Zanzibar, who died 
 in 1888. 
 
 I was interested to see the method of irrigation practised, 
 the water for the baths and irrigation purposes being brought 
 from the Custom House in the town. The garden is divided 
 in the centre by a masonry terrace about 4 feet high, 
 ornamented A\ith flower-pots and shrubs, and on each side 
 of this terrace a stone channel conveys the water, which is 
 distributed as required among the minute square beds into 
 which the garden is dixided. I obser\ed some fine date-palms 
 growing here ; a bag is tied round the clusters of fruit when 
 ripe, to protect them from the birds. I also noticed some 
 fig trees. The garden is marmred, and chiefly vegetables are 
 cultivated. There were man}- handsome flowering shrubs, 
 several having been introduced b)' Seyyid Barghash from 
 Mauritius, and also some fine Croton plants. 
 
 Perhaps before entering upon the details of m\' examination 
 of the island, it is better to give the reader a general 
 description of its geographical position and other particulars. 
 
 The East African coast is characterized b\- a number of 
 coralline islands which lie along it, and of these Zanzibar, 
 situated between latitude 5' and 6 south, is the largest and 
 most important. Its position adjacent to the mainland, from 
 which it is separated only by a channel 25 to 30 miles wide, 
 and the advantages of its excellent harbour on the western 
 or mainland side, mark if naturally as the chief commercial 
 entrepot of East Africa, and the gate through which com- 
 merce, religion, and civilization were destined so largely to 
 open up the interior of the continent. The island and port
 
 ro« ZAXZI15AK AND PE.MIiA fart ii 
 
 of Zanzibar being also about equi-distant (some 2400 nautical 
 miles) from the Cape of Good Hope, India, and the Suez 
 Canal, and controlling the line of our cable communication with 
 Mauritius, affords a strategical position of future importance 
 to our Imperial interests, as a naval base in the contingency 
 of the closing of the Suez Canal in time of war, and con- 
 stituting one of the valuable and substantial advantages 
 accruing to Great Britain from the Anglo-German treaty of 
 1890. In shape the island is irregular, its greatest breadth 
 amounting to about 27 miles, whilst its extreme length 
 exceeds 50 miles. Its total area is estimated, in the absence 
 of a thorough survey, at 400,000 acres. Zanzibar possesses 
 no mountain range ; rising in undulating hills from the coast,, 
 the low ridge which traverses the island from north to south 
 has by measurement been proved not to exceed a height of 
 400 feet. " The formation of the island," says Dr. James 
 Christie,^ " is coralline, erected on a' bed of stratified sand- 
 stone. . . . The madrepore structure is evidently based upon 
 the summits of an abrupt and sharply rising submarine 
 range, which, of course, must have been under the ocean-level 
 at some remote period. By the action of the gradually 
 subsiding waters a coralline conglomerate has been formed. 
 On the southern and eastern parts of the island the deposit is 
 more scanty, merely filling up the interstices of the coral 
 rag, leaving exposed the bare summits and making travelling 
 on foot exceedingly difficult. Where sufficient deposits have 
 been left, the soil is fertile and the crops early ; the porous 
 understructure carrying off superfluous rains, but still retaining 
 moisture and heat ; Zanzibar, like all other madrepore islands, 
 grows towards the leeward, and on that side the most fertiliz- 
 ing deposits take place. Thus the barest and most unfertile 
 parts of the island are those exposed during the greater length 
 of time to the influence of the long-continuous south-west 
 monsoon : and the most fertile are those sheltered from the 
 violence of the south-west and exposed to the north-east. 
 With a superstructure of this kind based upon ancient sand- 
 
 ' Cholera Epidemics of East Africa, by James Christie, A.M., M.D., 
 containing an excellent chapter on the meteorology and climatology of 
 Zanzibar.
 
 CHAP. I ZAXZIUAR AXl) I'EMIiA 509 
 
 stone formations, it is quite evident that the immense annual 
 rain-fall cannot be drained off superficially to the sea by the 
 swollen stream-beds, but that a ver)- large quantit)' must 
 percolate through the superficial sandy deposit, and then 
 through the reticulated porous coralline structure, collecting 
 ... in the hollows of the stratified sand-rock." 
 
 Whilst the meridional hill-range, mentioned abo\-e as 
 running the entire length of the island, presents a striking 
 picture of beautiful tropical vegetation, and much of the soil 
 of Zanzibar is most fertile, the geological characteristics 
 just quoted prepare one to learn that a great part of it is 
 barren. In fact, on the authorit}- of Pere Sacleux, who 
 .possesses an intimate and thorough knowledge of the subject, 
 the sterile portion covers the larger part of the island — 
 extending over the coast-lands of the eastern side, and 
 nearly all the southern portion — and consists of a universal 
 outcrop of sharp and jagged coral-rock ; but even there the 
 land is everywhere covered with low bush vegetation and 
 grass. 
 
 One explanation of this extensive area of sterility is, as 
 suggested b)- Dr. Christie, the fact that these portions of the 
 island are exposed during five months of the year to the full 
 violence of the south-west monsoon. Should this cause be 
 established — and there is much to support it — it would 
 certainly become a question of importance whether, by a 
 s)-stem of judicious belts formed of quick-growing trees, the 
 force of the monsoon could not be neutralized, and a certain 
 portion of this barren area reclaimed for cultivation. The 
 fertile area covers the whole of the western and northern 
 side, as well as the eastern face of the central hilly ridge ; 
 here and there occur scattered barren areas of small extent, 
 called " waanda " or " wangwa." 
 
 Zanzibar and the other coastal islands (Mafia, Pemba, etc.), 
 as well as the mainland, are inhabited by the half-caste 
 Swahili, a race of mixed Arab and African blood ; the Arab 
 intermixture has become so strong that the Swahili commonl)' 
 speak of themselves as Arabs, and are so regarded wherever 
 they, as traders, penetrate into the African interior. Besides 
 the Swahili, who form the' basis of the population, there are
 
 5IO 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 (especially in the town of Zanzibar) numerous members of 
 other Asiatic and insular races, such as Comoro men, natives 
 of Madagascar, Arabs from Oman and Hadramaut, and 
 natives of India — Banians, Parsees, and Portuguese half-castes 
 from Goa. A few of the Bantu aborigines still remain on 
 the east coast, and it is in the unfertile districts of Zanzibar 
 that the original inhabitants of the island survive ; they are 
 called the Wahadinu. The population of the island (of 
 whom a third live in or near the town) is estimated at from 
 250,000 to 350,000. 
 
 In Zanzibar, as in other countries in the tropics, the 
 rains follow the sun, commencing soon after the sun has 
 passed its zenith. There are thus (as in the coast-lands) 
 two rainy seasons in the year, the " greater rains " (Mazika), 
 which culminate in April or May ; and the " lesser rains " 
 (Muli), which last from October to November or December. 
 There are also, in Zanzibar and Pemba, what are called 
 " after rains " in July, which are anxiously looked for by 
 agriculturists ; these rains do not appear to occur on 
 the coast-line of the mainland, although they are found in 
 Uganda, 800 miles inland. The amount of rain varies greatly 
 from year to year, for while the average at Zanzibar is 64 
 inches, the annual amount has been found to vary from 46 
 inches (in 1874) to 167 inches (in 1859), and there seems to 
 be some justification for the opinion that the rain-fall has 
 become less and less with increasing cultivation.^ 
 
 Until the accuracy of the earlier and apparently imperfect 
 records, giving the total annual rain-fall ^t from 85 inches to 
 167 inches, is established, I prefer to accept the result of the five 
 years' careful meteorological observations taken daily by Dr. 
 John Robb on Ras Shangani, the point of land in the middle 
 of the west coast, on which the town of Zanzibar is situated. 
 The measurements from 1874 to 1878 give an average yearly 
 fall of 61 inches. As will be seen from the table annexed, the 
 fall is most evenly distributed, Zanzibar feeling the influence 
 of both the south-west and north-east monsoon. 
 
 ^ See the valuable and interesting Report on Meteorological Observa- 
 tions in British East Africa for 1893, by E. G. Ravenstein, F.R.Met.Soc. 
 (George Philip and Son, 1894).
 
 CHAP. I 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEM15A 
 
 Kain-fall— Monthly Results for Five Years, \'?>Ti^-']^,by John Robb, M.D.,P.M.S. 
 
 Months 
 
 Amount 
 
 Greatest 
 Fall 
 
 Number 
 of Days 
 
 Prevailing Winds and Remarks 
 
 January . . 
 
 In. 
 
 In. 
 2-03 
 
 7 
 
 N.E., E., calms ; S. 
 
 February . 
 
 3-00 
 
 270 
 
 8 
 
 N.E. ; E. in afternoons. 
 
 March . . 
 
 5-92 
 
 2-47 
 
 12 
 
 N., N.E. ; variable S. 
 
 April . . . 
 
 14-84 
 
 374 
 
 17 
 
 Southerly to W. and E. 
 
 May . . . 
 
 6-95 
 
 377 
 
 12 
 
 W.S.W., S.S.E., S. 
 
 June . . . 
 
 2 '09 
 
 1-63 
 
 6 
 
 S.W. to S.S.E., E. 
 
 July . . . 
 
 2-32 
 
 1-95 
 
 6 
 
 W.S.W., S., S.S.E., N. 
 
 August . . 
 
 2-49 
 
 3-22 
 
 8 
 
 W., S., E., variable, calms. 
 
 September . 
 
 I -86 
 
 r22 
 
 9 
 
 W., E., S. ; calms, Northerly. 
 
 October 
 
 375 
 
 2-52 
 
 9 
 
 S., E., N. ; calms, variable. 
 
 November . 
 
 7'39 
 
 4*63 
 
 14 
 
 S.E., E., N. ; calms, variable. 
 
 December . 
 
 Average ) 
 for year \ 
 
 8 -06 
 
 474 
 
 13 
 
 N.E., N.; steady, calm mornings. 
 
 
 
 
 61 'OO 
 
 474 
 
 121 
 
 
 Assuming the rain-fall record of 1859 (167 ins.) to be 
 accurate, Dr. Robb is inclined to attribute the decrease to the 
 great destruction of trees on the island by the cyclone of 
 1872. Mr. E. G. Ravenstein, it will be observed, suggests 
 the result is owing to increased cultivation. Sir John Kirk 
 notices the same fact when he says that " if reliance is to 
 be placed on observations taken forty years ago, the rain-fall 
 has since then diminished to about one-third of what it then 
 was. In confirmation of this we know that there has been a 
 gradual and marked diminution during the last thirty years." ^ 
 
 The question of the connection between trees and rain-fall 
 is a much-disputed one. Personally I share the opinion con- 
 tained in the following extract — - 
 
 " Forest is plentiful because rain is plentiful, but the con- 
 verse of the proposition is not true. Plentiful rain will not 
 follow abundant forest. Over a large portion of Ceylon, and 
 much larger portions of India, natural forest is scarce or 
 absent, because of the paucity of rain. To produce forest 
 artificially in such districts is difficult, but not impossible. 
 
 ' Kctu EitUctin^ No. 64, April 1892. 
 
 ^ " Forest and Rain-fall'' : Tropical Agriculturist, July 1891.
 
 512 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 Success will secure man)- beneficial consequences ; amongst 
 the re^>t, econom>' of moisture b)- reducing floods and evapor- 
 ation ; but we arc utterly sceptical as to any appreciable in- 
 crease of the deposit of rain from the atmosphere by any 
 process of afforestation which can be carried out." 
 
 Sir John Kirk gives in the KeiK) Bulletin, already quoted, 
 the means of meteorological observations (reduced to sea-level) 
 taken in the town of Zanzibar in the five years 1880 to 1884, 
 inclusive. These observations were taken with reliable in- 
 struments, and were corrected for index and other errors at 
 the Observatory, Bombay — 
 
 Means of Meteorological Observations {reduced to a sea-lev el ) taken in the Town of 
 Zanzibar in the five years 1880/0 1884, inclusive. 
 
 
 E 
 3 
 6 
 
 g 
 1 
 
 1 ' 
 
 si 
 
 W) 
 
 c 
 
 = rt CO 
 
 £. o b 
 
 Humidity 
 
 [rt 
 
 C 1 
 
 
 
 Q.s 
 
 Month 
 
 C8 
 
 c 
 
 •Ps- 
 
 a. 
 
 £ 
 
 w 
 
 i"£ 
 
 
 h 
 "a 
 
 C4 
 
 >^ 
 
 10 1 4 
 a.m. p.m. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 < 
 
 
 sq " 
 
 
 
 
 •z 
 
 January . . 
 
 S3 -4 
 
 iTl 
 
 81 • 
 
 13-6 
 
 29-899 
 
 79 
 
 67 
 
 2-77 
 
 7 
 
 February . . 
 
 85-9 
 
 78- 
 
 81-4 
 
 14-4 
 
 29-893 
 
 79 
 
 68 
 
 5"27 
 
 9 
 
 iSIarch . . . 
 
 86-9 
 
 78-8 
 
 82-3 
 
 13-8 
 
 29-888 
 
 79 
 
 67 
 
 3-95 
 
 7 
 
 April . . . 
 
 84-9 
 
 77 '4 
 
 8o-5 
 
 i6-i 
 
 29-929 
 
 80 
 
 75 
 
 10-24 
 
 iS 
 
 May . . ■ 
 
 827 
 
 75'4 
 
 78-2 
 
 14-4 
 
 29-995 
 
 S3 
 
 74 
 
 10-12 
 
 17 1 
 
 June . . . 
 
 83-8 
 
 74'5 
 
 77 '9 
 
 12-4 
 
 30-085 
 
 77 
 
 60 
 
 0-31 
 
 3 1 
 
 July .... 
 
 8i-7 
 
 73-2 
 
 76-4 
 
 i3"i 
 
 3o"io3 
 
 77 
 
 60 
 
 2-03 
 
 6 1 
 
 August . . . 
 
 82-3 
 
 72-5 
 
 76 "4 
 
 14-2 
 
 30-386 
 
 75 
 
 57 
 
 1-19 
 
 7 ' 
 
 September 
 
 83-5 
 
 73-8 
 
 77-6 
 
 i3"4 
 
 30-078 
 
 76 
 
 61 
 
 I-I2 
 
 7 
 
 October . . 
 
 83-9 
 
 74 '9 
 
 787 
 
 14-4 
 
 30 '006 
 
 78 
 
 63 
 
 2-52 
 
 II 
 
 November 
 
 84-6 
 
 76 '4 
 
 80-4 
 
 14-1 
 
 29-924 
 
 78 
 
 68 
 
 5-00 
 
 14 
 
 December 
 
 85-4 
 
 77'4 
 
 8o-8 
 
 13-2 
 
 29-923 
 
 79 
 
 67 
 
 4'35 
 
 12 
 
 Total 
 
 48-87 
 
 118 
 
 Mean temperature = 79-3°. 
 Highest temperature recorded = gi'2° in February 18S2; lowest = 67-4^^ in September iS 
 
 The question of tcDipcyatiire being as important in its 
 bearing on cultivation as that of rain-fall, the following infor- 
 mation on this point will be useful. Dr. Robb gives the 
 mean temperature of the five years of his observation as 803 , 
 and the average }-early range from the highest maximum 
 to the lowest minimum as I7"3 . In the Kezv Bulletin for 
 1890 (p. 216), Sir John Kirk confirms Dr. Robb's observations 
 by a valuable record for the year 187S, "taken in the open
 
 CHAr. I 
 
 ZANZIBAR AXI) PEMBA 
 
 ;i3 
 
 and shaded corridors of the Residcnc}', unaffected by sun and 
 sky radiation." 
 
 Highest reading of the year (February) 88'3 
 
 Lowest reading of the year (July) ... "jto 
 
 Extreme ransfe 
 
 16-3 
 
 For the five years 1880 to 1884, inclusive, it will be seen 
 that Sir John's observations gave a mean temperature of 
 79"3' ; the highest temperature recorded, 91*2', being in 
 February 1882, and the lowest, 67*4', in September 1884. 
 The hottest time of the year is from January to March, 
 and the extreme months are April and September. Mr. 
 Ravenstein states the daily range at Zanzibar in the former 
 month at 7"^, and in the latter 8*9 ; the mean daily range 
 for the year being 7*8 , and the annual range 5"8 . The mean 
 daih' range at Greenwich for the year is I0'6 , and the annual 
 range 23"9" ; the mean temperature being 49*5 as compared 
 with 79'8 at Zanzibar.i 
 
 In this connection'the following comparison of temperatura, 
 from Haldanc's Sub-Tropical Cultivation and Climates^ will be 
 both interesting and suggestive — 
 
 Station 
 
 Lat. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 a 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Apl. 
 
 
 
 May 
 
 
 
 June 
 
 '0 
 
 July 
 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 0. 
 
 s 
 
 Nov. 
 a 
 
 Dec. 
 
 Year 
 
 
 
 
 Kingston, 
 
 i8''i'N. 
 
 75 '4 
 
 757 
 
 75-2 
 
 77'5 
 
 77 "7 
 
 8o-o 
 
 8. -5 
 
 81 -4 
 
 8.-S 
 
 79-2 
 
 77 "4 
 
 77-2 
 
 7»-4 
 
 Jamaica 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Zanzibar 
 
 5" 43' s. 
 
 82-9 
 
 82-0 
 
 8VS 
 
 8.-S 
 
 8o-o 
 
 78-6 
 
 77-2 
 
 77 '4 
 
 77-1 
 
 79 "4 
 
 80-9 
 
 82-2 
 
 8o-3 
 
 Bua, Fiji 
 
 i6»38'S. 
 
 81 -2 
 
 «o-5 
 
 79-2 
 
 79 '9 
 
 79-5 
 
 77-1 
 
 76-5 
 
 77 '9 
 
 79 7 
 
 79 "9 
 
 8.-. 
 
 »o-3 
 
 79 4 
 
 The town of Zanzibar is now so well known that I do not 
 think any further description is necessar)'. I cannot, how- 
 ever, omit a reference to the excellent system by which water 
 is conveyed to the town, from a natural spring situated at 
 Chemchem, about 3 miles di.stant. The water is first 
 brought from the spring — now carefully built over and pro- 
 tected — b}' a large covered drain, with open ventilating holes; 
 
 ' Report^ etc., quoted above. Mr. Ravenstein's figures for Zanzibar are 
 stated to be based upon observations for Temperature, twehe years ; 
 Daily Range, ten years ; Rain-fall, sixteen and five-twelfths years. 
 
 I. I.
 
 514 ZANZIBAR AND PEMIiA PART ll 
 
 then, nearer the town, where the fall in the ground necessitates 
 it, iron pipes, about i foot in diameter, have been connected 
 \\ith the drain, each pipe beini^ sup])orted by a solid pillar of 
 masonr)' at an average height of 4 to 5 feet. In the town 
 itself the pipes are underground, and the water supply was, 
 at the time of mj' visit, being largely extended to the various 
 ([uarters. 
 
 When ready to leave Zanzibar for m}' tour in the island 
 (March 19, 1892), I adopted the following route, which was 
 carefully planned out to enable mc to visit the more impor- 
 tant parts — 
 
 North, from Zanzibar to Kokotoni ; distance 21 miles; 
 halting on the way at Chueni. 
 
 South, returning from Kokotoni by M'Do to Dunga; distance 
 5 hours ; distance from M'Do 2 J hours. 
 
 East, to visit the barren portion east of Dunga. 
 
 J [Vj-/, Dunga to Zanzibar; distance 12 miles; visiting the 
 valley of Bonde la Mzungu on the wa}\ 
 
 This route took me over the most important portion of the 
 cultivated area, with a brief visit to the barren and exposed 
 side of the island. 
 
 The Sultan having promised to send me to Chueni in one 
 of his carriages, I found, when ready to start about 4 p.m., a 
 messenger from his Highness, who stated that the road to 
 Chueni had broken in, and that it was impassable for a car- 
 riage. A horse was sent instead without saddle or bridle ; 
 under the circumstances I preferred to walk, Sir Llo}'d 
 Mathews accompanying me for some distance on m}- wa}- to 
 Chueni Palace, 7 miles off. 
 
 Two of the Sultan's orderlies were attached to m\' person 
 flurinsT m\' tour through the island.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 CIIUENI — KOKOTONI AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY 
 
 Luxuriant Verdure — Chueni Palace— Clove Plantations — Country round 
 Chueni — Neglected Shambas — Kokotoni — Mr. Fraser's Experiments : 
 Sugar-cane and Coco-nuts — A Charming \'ie\v — Scarcity of Labour — 
 Salim bin Hamisi and his Estates — Character of Kokotoni District. 
 
 I WAS much struck, after Icavint; Zanzibar town, with the 
 extreme greenness of the vegetation everywhere, a great 
 contrast to the burnt-up mainland I had just left. Even 
 the rank gras.ses, with which several patches of uncultivated 
 land were overgrown, shared the general luxuriant verdure. 
 Coco-nut trees were numerous, .some growing in clumps, 
 but others more scattered ; .some of these latter being 
 very thin and lanky, and tapering up to a great height. I 
 especially noticed and admired the numerous large and 
 luxuriant mango trees along my route. The chief cultivation 
 in this district appeared to be cassaxa, but I also passed one 
 or two clove shambas ; the regularity of the lines of trees 
 much impressed me. 
 
 The road to Chueni runs parallel to the sea, and I was not 
 sorry to arrive, about 6.30 p.m., at the end of my first stage, 
 for not having expected to walk, my enjoyment was 
 spoiled by the discomfort of walking in thin canvas shoes 
 over a bad and wet road. The palace of Chueni is situated 
 on the other side of a river or backwater, which I crossed 
 by a temporary wooden bridge. Some iron pillars lying on 
 the beach were being painted, probably for use as supports to 
 a new bridge. The palace is built right on the sea, the waves 
 almost washing its base ; it is a double-storied building with
 
 5i6 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 a large verandah running round the upper floor, and in 
 appearance much resembles the palace at Zanzibar. The 
 accommodation comprises two large interior rooms used for 
 banquets, with tables down the centre, as well as small 
 dra-wing and sitting-rooms opening out of the larger ones. 
 
 Ice, fruit, sherbet and lemonade, etc., were provided for me ; 
 but it was so late when I arrived that Ragi, the head-overseer, 
 had given me up for that day, and had gone away. My 
 porters and my cook had straggled dreadfully on the road, 
 and at 9 p.m. there were still no signs of them or dinner, so I 
 contented myself with bananas and bread. 
 
 Ragi came to see me next morning, and informed me that 
 he had received strict orders from the Sultan to supply all my 
 wants and to give me all the assistance and information I 
 required. At about 8 a.m. I proceeded on my first visit to the 
 clove plantation of Chueni, accompanied by Ragi. The planta- 
 tion, the private property of the Sultan, is a very extensive one, 
 and is situated on the direct road to Kokotoni and close to the 
 sea. The estate possesses a steam sugar-crushing mill with 
 permanent buildings, which are in good order. The compara- 
 tively small amount of sugar-cane now grown is crushed here. 
 Beyond the mill is a flat country, with fields of sweet cassava 
 on one side of the road, and the native variety on the other, 
 with scattered coco-nut trees growing amongst it. After 
 passing through some rice-fields, and occasional clove shambas, 
 we continued along the direct Kokotoni road — through 
 an extensive and closely-planted coco-nut plantation, the 
 trees consequently very lanky in appearance — until we 
 reached the Sultan's clove plantation. I was much struck 
 with the extreme regularity of the rows of trees, which 
 presented straight lines in every direction. They looked 
 most vigorous and healthy, with few or no vacancies, and the 
 ground was fairly clean. Coco-nut trees were planted at 
 irregular intervals between the clove trees, which latter were 
 seventeen years old. Along the roadside were some closely- 
 planted Ai-eca palms. Slave huts were scattered here and 
 there among the clove trees, and were surrounded by small 
 plots of cassava, sweet potatoes and clumps of bananas ; there 
 were also a few open spaces with small clumps of coco-nut
 
 CHAP. II ZANZIBAR ANIJ PEMHA 517 
 
 trees. The soil had a grey to dark loam surface, with a 
 subsoil of clay. There was a good deal of grass, and 
 although, in comparison with others, it was well kept up, the 
 plantation could not be described as clean. 
 
 I took the opportunity while staying at Chueni to examine 
 the country to the north and north-west, as well as to the 
 south, of the Sultan's plantation. In the former district there 
 are no clove trees; the cultivation is all open, the soil being 
 chiefly a light grey loam. There is much uncleared land, 
 mostly overgrown with high, rank grass, and a good deal (jf 
 " ilook " ^ amongst it. This grass is very bad, and difficult 
 to eradicate out of the land, as it spreads rapidly from the 
 roots. The country is low and undulating, with many hollows 
 and valleys containing water. 
 
 Both varieties of cassava -' are cultivated, the tubers of the 
 siveet variety being boiled, and those of the hitter kind dried 
 on frames for a week, and then ground and pounded into 
 flour. It constitutes the chief cultivation. Rice and sugar- 
 cane are grown in the hollows and valleys, and the a])pear- 
 ance of the sugar-cane was, in places, very fine ; both it 
 and rice could be much more largely cultivated, as the 
 water supply appears to be abundant. 
 
 Coco-nut trees are very plentiful, and are scattered all over 
 the country, intermixed with numerous mango trees, some 
 of which are really magnificent. Regular plantations of 
 coco-nuts are rare ; I saw only one, close to the Chueni clove 
 estate. They are generally planted in clumps, being thickest 
 in the vicinity of houses ; along my route scattered trees 
 were numerous, and had very lanky stems, most probably 
 owing to the land surrounding them being uncultivated. 
 Small clumps and plantations of bananas, orange, and other 
 fruit trees are frequent. Around the slave villages and 
 other native houses there are generally small gardens, in which 
 are grown bananas, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, peas (Cajaiius 
 indicHs), etc. 
 
 ' liiipcniltt /\ai!ii[/i ; there are two varieties of this grass, one ;'. 
 broad-bladed kind, the otlier tliin and spiral. 
 
 -' The bitter cassava {Manihot utitissiina) and the sweet cassava 
 {Maiiihot aipi).
 
 5i! 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA i-art ii 
 
 To the European eye the want of system and care is mani- 
 fest, but the kixuriant appearance of the vegetation every- 
 where testifies to the great fertiHty of the country. The soil 
 varies in character, being chiefly black to grey near the shore, 
 in other places, very sandy loam ; further inland a dark 
 chocolate, often two feet in depth, alternating with a lighter 
 loam. Much of it is mixed up with fibrous grass roots, 
 whilst in the valleys and hollows it is a rich stiff black. The 
 subsoil is clay, with a substratum of coral. 
 
 No cultivation is carried on in the large shambas except 
 hoeing and weeding, and its extent and character may be 
 judged by the fact that only two implements are used — one 
 for the clove plantations called " insaa," and a small light 
 hoe for all other field operations. 
 
 The country to the north-west of Chueni is very undulating, 
 hollows alternating with gently rising ridges. Much of the 
 land is abandoned, and coco-nut cultivation is very scattered, 
 no regular order in planting being adopted, so that the trees 
 appear to be indiscriminately dispersed all over the country. 
 Copra is exported, and coir manufactured in a rude manner 
 by Comoro people only. Coco-nut trees seen in many places 
 appear robust and healthy, and the average yield is from lOO 
 to 1 20 nuts ; but no particular care seems to be taken of the 
 trees — the ground being only cleared in places beneath them, 
 at irregular periods, for growing ground produce, chiefly 
 cassava ; such was the case even with the largest plantations 
 I had yet seen. Amongst other products of this district may 
 be mentioned " Uwanga," a species of arrow-root, and " Mbono," 
 a Cucurbit {Telfairia ocddentalis), yielding oil from the seeds, 
 which are also roasted and eaten : its leaves are used to stop 
 the bleeding of cuts and wounds. Bazi ^ leaves mixed with 
 a little lime are also used for the same purpose. A good 
 deal of rice and sugar-cane is cultivated in the hollows, the 
 latter being crushed in the Sultan's mill at Chueni. 
 
 The country to the south of Chueni is rich and well- 
 populated, cloves being principally cultivated. There is 
 a good deal of uncleared land, and " ilook " abounds. The 
 chief ground cultivation is cassava, with occasional fields of 
 ^ Cdja/u/s indicus.
 
 CHAP. II ZANZlliAR AND I'EMBA 519 
 
 rice and maize. I noticed luxuriant fields of sugar-cane on 
 both sides of the road, and they were erecting a small sugar- 
 mill on the property of an Arab named Ali bin Issa, whose 
 father, I was informed, formerly owned 1900 slaves, and 
 sixteen plantations. The country all round this estate is 
 densely populated, and groups of houses are frequent, with 
 coco-nut and mango trees scattered about everywhere. Close 
 by, an English firm was erecting a manufactory for extract- 
 ing coco-nut oil, coir and aloe fibre, the machinery of which 
 was intended to be worked by a 12-horse-power steam 
 engine. 
 
 Some of the clove plantations that I passed through here 
 were very large. Two extensive plantations belonging to the 
 Sultan may be particularly referred to. That of'Kidichi," 
 one of the largest on the island, is a fine property, the trees 
 extending to a great distance in regular unbroken lines. 
 They were all mature and vigorous, and the ground was 
 very clean, though the " ilook " grass was noticeable here and 
 there. The soil is a bright red clay. " Kongoni " is another 
 plantation belonging to the Sultan (or his family), but here 
 clove cultivation was combined with that of coco-nut, bananas, 
 and ground produce. The lay of the land was flat, with the 
 exception of one or two low hills. 
 
 Speaking generally, I would lay stress on the neglected 
 condition of the cultivated land. For instance, in a fairly large 
 plantation of coco-nuts which I passed through, the ground 
 beneath the trees was thickly overgrown with dense bush and 
 grass, and wherever, through fault in the soil, clove cultivation 
 is not carried on, neglect is at once apparent ; I passed over 
 a fairly large plain of light gre\', sandy soil (declared to be 
 unfavourable to the clove), so, with the exception of a little 
 cassava and some scattered mangoes, the ground was entirely 
 neglected. 
 
 The soil varies from grey loam to red, and may be described 
 as bright red, with a darker-coloured chocolate, mixed with 
 disintegrated coral. The subsoil is clay. I examined the 
 slope of a low hill where the soil was washed away to a depth 
 of 5 feet by heavy rains : it consisted of deep red clayey 
 loam, The soil of the Kidichi plantation was also of a deep
 
 520 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND I'EMIiA 
 
 red loam with sandstone substrata, often very close to the 
 surface ; it is very friable, porous, and easily broken. 
 
 At 7.30 a.m. on March 22 I left Chueni Palace for Kokotoni 
 coco-nut plantation, about 14 miles distant, being provided 
 by the Sultan with a donkey, and letters to the Government 
 people at Kokotoni. The land between Chueni and Kokotoni 
 is flat. Cultivation and soil vary so greatly, that a summary 
 of my notes will best convey a description of the chief 
 characteristics of this portion of the island. 
 
 I may state generally that the soil in the course of this 
 journey consisted of grey or black loam, and the cultivation 
 of coco-nuts, betel-nut palms, cloves, cassava and mango 
 trees. The cassava and sweet potatoes were cultivated in 
 raised beds, and in open fields, but without any apparent 
 method ; further on the cloves became less numerous and less 
 luxuriant, the average height being 20 to 25 feet, and later on 
 they were smaller still, and of a marked yellow colour. The 
 soil was too damp and low for them ; in fact, in one place 
 rice was actually growing beneath the trees, and the appear- 
 ance of the clove trees generally was unsatisfactory, great 
 neglect in cultivation being evident. After crossing a small 
 river, named Mzinga Mzinga, and entering upon a tract of 
 very flat land, clove cultivation ceased. 
 
 This part of the country was nearly all grass-grown and 
 uncultivated. Here and there was a little cassava, and a k\v 
 patches of rice, coco-nuts, and isolated mango trees. The 
 coco-nut trees were extremely scattered, and appeared to be 
 utterly neglected, growing as best they could on the flat 
 plain, which was a tangle of grass and bush ; I observed 
 many yellow leaves — a sure sign of distress — as well as many 
 dead trees. It was no fault of the soil, which here was 
 of a more sandy nature, the bush and grass being luxuriant 
 enough. In the middle of the plain I observed a few wild 
 oil-palm trees,^ termed in Swahili " Inchikichi." Abreast of 
 Dongi, a low hill to the north-west thickly covered with 
 cloves and coco-nut trees, the cultivation improves a little, 
 and I soon passed a fine plantation of young coco-nut trees, 
 
 ' Identified, I believe, by Sir John Kirk with the oil-palm {E/ccis 
 ^i^n/i/iec'fisis) found in West Central .Africa.
 
 CHAJ-. II ZANZIIJAR AND PEMI5A 521 
 
 where the ground beneath was quite uncleared. Then I 
 crossed a second river, flowing at right angles to the path, 
 called Monakombo ; the soil of the banks is a dark grey, stiff 
 loam, and its further side j^resents much the same appearance 
 as that of the Mzinga. I then traversed a low-lying plain, 
 with a few isolated patches of rice growing in swampy IkjI- 
 lows. This plain ap[)ears to be well adapted for either rice 
 or sugar-cane cultivation, and the paucity of the former is 
 probably owing to the want of adequate labour. Close to 
 Dongi Hill the plain opens out into a fine fertile valley, and 
 cultivation again becomes apparent. Close to Kokotoni 
 plantation, lying right ahead, I passed through a good deal 
 of very fine young rice, water being abundant. The grey soil 
 and flat land struck me as well suited for the growth of 
 ground-nuts. 
 
 In the Kokotoni plantation I crossed a small river named 
 Kipanga, flowing between banks of stiff grey loam. No 
 stoYies are visible, and the banks are in places 7 to 8 feet deep, 
 showing the volume of water brought down in the wet season. 
 
 A brief description of this plantation will be instructive, as 
 it is, so far, the only attemj^t at cultivation on the European 
 system. The present owner is an Indian merchant (Banian), 
 whose father obtained it by foreclosing the mortgage of the 
 original Arab proprietor. A Mr. Eraser leased the estate about 
 twenty-five years ago, and greatly extended it by the purchase 
 of seven or eight other plantations, making it eventually the 
 largest property on the island ; he had it twelve years, and 
 during the first six years carried on sugar-planting extensively 
 and profitably, erecting a large, substantial sugar-factory and 
 importing valuable machinery, worked by steam-power, from 
 England. This industry was discontinued, for personal 
 reasons, and Mr. Eraser next turned his attention to coco-nut 
 cultivation. Originally there were but 5000 of these trees 
 growing on the estate, but he planted largely, and coco-nut 
 oil mills were erected ; shortly after M<-. Eraser's departure an 
 enumeration showed the enormous number of 80,000 coco-iuit 
 trees as growing on the estate, to which 1400 clove trees, 
 65 orange trees, 240 mango trees, 28 jack trees, and 85 areca 
 palms were subsequently added. There were 750 slaves on
 
 522 ZANZIBAR AND I'KMIiA part II 
 
 the property when Mr. Fraser took it, and besides these (who, 
 of course, became ipso facto free), he employed 500 additional 
 labourers daily, thus making the considerable total of 1250 
 labourers on the estate. The wages at that time were only 
 from 8 to 10 pice per day. 
 
 From the low hill on which the residence is built, one com- 
 mands an extensive view over this large and once valuable 
 property, admirably situated in the low fertile plain bordering 
 the sea. The thousands of coco-nut trees stretching away on 
 every side, with here and there detached fields of luxuriant 
 rice, and out at sea the island of Tumbattu, lying nearly 
 opposite, present a charming tropical landscape. I was 
 informed that there were over 1000 people living on Tum- 
 battu, and that the island had a bad name as the residence 
 of wizards. Beyond Tumbattu there is a smaller island called 
 Mwana, where several Banians reside, and a market is held 
 there every day, at which fish, shark's flesh, cloths, etc., are sold. 
 
 At present the estate of Kokotoni is being worked 'as 
 cheaply as possible under the charge of a native overseer, and, 
 with the little care and attention now paid to it, it is fast 
 losing its original value. The factory is now useless, and its 
 once valuable machinery ruined by rust and disuse, whilst the 
 plantation itself, which I traversed from end to end, presents 
 everywhere the same picture of utter neglect ; the regular lines 
 of coco-nut trees — said to be about twenty years old, and 
 planted at distances of 32, 35, and 40 feet apart — are so 
 choked up with grass and bush that many nuts are lost by 
 falling into this dense undergrowth, and I noticed some 
 self-sown plants struggling up as best they could. Many 
 vacancies are noticeable, and the trees generally have a 
 decidedly red and unhealthy look, the yield per tree being in 
 such cases only from 5 to 50 nuts a year. Good cart-roads 
 were originally cut by Mr. Fraser, who appears to have 
 shown great enterprise, but these are quite overgrown and 
 neglected, only one cart and two bullocks being now in use to 
 collect the nuts. The soil, which varies from a stiff black 
 to a lighter grey loam in more favourable sites, is all fairly 
 rich. I was interested in the healthy and vigorous appearance 
 of the coco-nut trees on the margin of the river. Their
 
 CHAP. II ZANZIBAR AND I'EMBA 523 
 
 luxuriance was accounted for by their roots having access 
 to the tidal salt water. 
 
 In Kokotoni again are seen the results of so many years' 
 surface cultivation, the earth being completely matted with 
 fibrous grass ; the surface hoeings, where the " ilook " grass 
 is found, far from destroying that noxious weed, encour- 
 age its growth. This matted state of the soil is a 
 great check to cultivation, and is especially harmful to the 
 roots of the coco-nut. 
 
 No regular plantations of coco-nuts are made by the 
 Swahili, who say that if their shambas were planted with 
 them they would not be able to cultivate other products; many 
 of them own only a comparatively small plot of land, on which 
 are generally found all the products usually cultivated by that 
 class of people ; viz. maize, Guinea corn, arrowroot, cassava, 
 sweet potatoes, bazi, yams, pumpkins, coco-nuts, mangoes 
 and other fruit trees. I may mention that the reason 
 why Arabs plant coco-nut trees here and there at irregular 
 intervals in a clove plantation appears to be either unknown 
 to themselves or forgotten ; they must have copied the 
 custom from the French in Mauritius and Bourbon, who 
 originally deriv'ed it from the Dutch, these last having 
 discovered that the neighbourhood of the coco-nut palm is 
 favourable to the clove, though the coco-nut trees growing 
 amongst cloves are generally lanky and yield poorly. The 
 nuts are collected by the Swahili in a hap-hazard way and 
 placed in heaps along the roadside ; many are lost through 
 the absence of any regular system of gathering. The average 
 yield of the trees is from lOO to 200 nuts a year. I noticed 
 the very small size of many of the nuts, caused by the 
 neglected and overgrown state of the trees. Nuts are 
 gathered for the copra alone, but owing to the distance of this 
 place from Zanzibar and the difficulty of transport, a good 
 many appear to be shipped whole direct to Bombay, and a 
 dhow was being loaded here at the time of my visit. The 
 average price was from 20 to 25 dollars ^ per thousand. 
 
 J/rhe "dollar" is the commercial unit of account on the east coast, 
 and the currency is the same as that of India. The fixed value of the 
 " dollar" is 2^ rupees, so that it varies with the rate of exchange.
 
 524 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA PART ll 
 
 Husks on the Kokotoni plantation arc not made use of in 
 any way, but arc left to rot in heaps, on account of the small 
 demand and difficulty of transport. Baskets of them sell in 
 Zanzibar for from 6 to 8 pice, the purchasers being the 
 Comoro people. Beaten coir fibre is sold in Bombay at from 
 4 to 5 rupees per frasila (35 lbs.). No toddy is collected from 
 the trees here — labour not beinij available. 
 
 The small amount of labour now required on the estate is 
 supplied by freed slaves, of whom about thirty reside on the 
 property, and are kept permanently as watchmen to guard 
 against theft — extra labour for gathering nuts, etc., being 
 obtained as required, at the daily wage of 16 pice (4 annas). ^ 
 Hired labour in this part of the island is, however, very scarce 
 and difficult to obtain. Probably more labour could be 
 found if the owner were not, on account of former losses, 
 averse to spending more money on the place ; the estate is 
 an instance out of several, of the results of attempting 
 extended cultivation without a reliable labour supply. The 
 labour question will be discussed in detail in a subsequent 
 chapter, and it may suffice to say here that imported labour 
 seems to be the only remedy for the present state of things, 
 and that there is ample field for its productive and profitable 
 employment, as shown by the exjDeriment carried out by Mr. 
 Fraser. The whole of the valley below the house, now thickly 
 planted with coco-nut trees, interspersed with some rice-fields, 
 was in his time under sugar ; and I have pointed out the 
 advantage offered by the flat country between Kokotoni and 
 Chueni for the cultivation of rice and ground-nuts, labour 
 alone being required to develop these and other remunerative 
 agricultural industries. 
 
 The north side of the hill on which the house at Kokotoni 
 stands, slopes gradually down, and contains some fine clove 
 trees mixed with mangoes, and cassava shrubs. 
 
 On the third day of my visit, I went, accompanied by the 
 overseer, down the hill towards Dungi. The soil I observed to 
 
 ' This was the average rale for hired labour ruHiiL; al the time of my 
 \ ibil to Zanzibar. 
 
 The rates for coaUng sliips at Zanzibar were- for men, 40 ))ice ; for 
 women, 25 pice per day.
 
 CHAP. II ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 525 
 
 vary from a deep red clay to chocolate loam. We passed some 
 most luxuriant clove trees growing neglected in the bush and 
 grass, from 30 to 40 feet in height, and ten years old ; and 
 also some very fine bananas, 18 to 20 feet high and of a girth 
 of 3.^ to 4 feet a foot above the ground, growing in clumps 
 round the houses lower down the hill. This was the first 
 banana cultivation that I had seen, surrounding a small 
 village of freed slaves (Wahadinu people, the original inhabit- 
 ants of the island already referred to), and interspersed with 
 mango and coco-nut trees. The custom is to give each slave, 
 when freed, a small plot of land attached to his house, in 
 which he grows native produce for domestic consumption. 
 
 I next passed through a large clove plantation, the property 
 of an Arab named Rashid bin Kalfan ; it was the very 
 cleanest shamba I had yet seen. Roughly speaking, the rows 
 were 27 feet apart and 80 feet long. 
 
 Beyond this shamba was open countr)-, with patches of 
 "ilook " grass, and further on a good deal of uncleared undu- 
 lating land, the soil grey to black loam. After passing other 
 shambas I noticed the clove trees simply scattered about, not 
 regularly planted, and mingled with cassava. The trees here 
 were all young, about four years old and 10 to 15 feet high, of 
 very light foliage, and certainly not so luxuriant as those 
 growing in red or dark chocolate soil. 
 
 I passed by a large, unfinished stone house, belonging to 
 the late SuHman bin Kalfan : there is a singular Arab custom 
 that if an Arab dies leaving a building unfinished, it remains 
 just as the dead man left it. After passing this place, you 
 come to a ridge called Kiongene, with water in the valley 
 below, where sugar-cane is grown. 
 
 Proceeding in a north-easterly direction, I found the soil 
 varied remarkably, being now black to grey loam, and further 
 on, improving to darker black loam. I noticed, in proceeding 
 through the clove plantation of Salim bin Hamisi (the Cadi 
 of the district, who had visited me the day before at Koko- 
 toni), a very sudden and marked improvement in the 
 appearance and height of the clove trees, and on examining 
 the ground, found it consisted of a surface depth of 6 inches 
 of black soil mixed with sand, and a subsoil of stiff, black,
 
 526 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 rich clay. The trees were very luxuriant and vic^orous, with 
 healthy deep green foliage. Their age was six to seven years 
 and average height 25 feet — the best I had previously seen 
 being only 20 feet high at the same age. I examined a 
 nursery of young clove plants, three years old, and found 
 the height of one pulled up to be 3i feet, above the collar, 
 with a tap-root 18 inches long; this plant of course was too 
 big for planting — the usual size for that is from 6 inches 
 to a foot high. 
 
 Continuing my way through the clove plantation and 
 passing a small watercourse, I arrived at another fine plant- 
 ation of clove trees, in which is situated the house of the 
 owner, Salim bin Hamisi. I called on this gentleman, 
 and was most hospitably welcomed, and entertained with 
 green coco-nuts and numerous Arab delicacies and sweets. 
 The trees on the further side of the watercourse were six 
 to seven years old, whilst on this side they were sixteen 
 years, and looked healthy and well cared for. The soil is 
 excellent, varying from dark red chocolate to brown loam. 
 Salim bin Hamisi asked me to inspect another estate of his 
 close by, but time did not permit. There were two Indian 
 shops and some houses, situated on the borders of the Cadi's 
 plantation. Leaving this I passed through much uncleared 
 land, and the clove trees, after gradual!}' diminishing in num- 
 bers, at last entirely ceased, the shamba owners whom I 
 questioned being unanimous in their remarks on the great 
 trouble and care required in their cultivation. I here also 
 noticed a sudden change in the character of the soil — from 
 stiff brown loam to red, and in places yellow day, with coral 
 outcrop, and further on again, black to grey sandy loam. The 
 landscape varied between groups of houses, rows of bananas 
 and orange trees, and rice-fields.' From being low or level 
 the country now became more undulating, with much " ilook " 
 grass. The cultivation consisted of clumps of coco-nut and 
 mango trees, and on the open plain further on, rice-fields ; 
 the appearance of soil and produce being very inferior. 
 
 Having now examined a considerable area to the south, 
 south-east, and north of Kokotoni, and described, in fact, 
 almost a complete circle mund it. 1 will summarize the results
 
 CHAP. II ZANZIBAR AND PEMIJA 527 
 
 of my observations. The character of the land is, at first, 
 gently undulating, with scattered low hollows ; as one proceeds 
 it becomes more undulating, with well-defined, long low 
 ridges and intervening hollows ; then very level flat land, 
 and then again occasional fertile valleys. The water supply is 
 abundant, water being generally found in the hollows and 
 valleys. I passed two streams, one with deep banks marie 
 by the rush of water in the rainy season. 
 
 The soil varies ver)' much. That of the undulating country 
 was formed of — 
 
 1. A deep red clay, in places var}-ing from a rich black to 
 a chocolate loam ; 
 
 2. Grey to black loam, clayey subsoil ; 
 
 3. Grey to black loam, sandy. 
 
 That of the ridges was red to chocolate loam on the slope ; 
 higher up, stiff, black clayey loam, with scattered small coral 
 stones. In the finest and largest clove plantation the surface, 
 for a depth of 6 inches, was black loamy sand ; the subsoil, 
 stiff black clay. In the watery hollows the surface soil was 
 black loam, but where this was washed away and the subsoil 
 exposed, 3'ellow cla}'. The flat land was a rich dark red to 
 deeper chocolate, the water in puddles being coloured dark 
 red to }'ellow ; and again, ver}- rich, stiff brown to chocolate, 
 in some places more inclined to brown, and in others a clayey 
 red or }-ellow, with coral outcrop. 
 
 In the low-level valley its character was black to grey 
 sandy loam, and in the river bed cla\-e}' stiff loam, with coral 
 outcrop. Certain flat barren areas, as alread)- mentioned, are 
 called " Waanda," and the following brief extract from m}' 
 notes will illustrate their characteristics — " Bej'ond this, open 
 plain with rice-fields (dry). Soil sand)' grey loam, very sandy 
 and inferior. The appearance of both the rice and the bush 
 and grass on uncleared land very poor and straggling. Coco- 
 nut trees have yellow foliage and unhealthy appearance, a few 
 mango trees fine. This plain is fairly extensive. Coco-nut 
 trees all round are thin and lank}-, the soil of land cleared for 
 rice cultivation very white to grej'ish-white on surface, from 
 sandy nature of soil." 
 
 Cultivation is fairl\- extensive, the chief ground produce
 
 528 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ll 
 
 being cassava. In the hollows there are generally sugar-cane 
 patches, and rice, but the principal produce is certainly 
 cloves, cultivated either in regular plantations, some fairly 
 extensive, or scattered about amongst other produce. I 
 passed through one or two young clove plantations, 
 irregularly planted, rice and cassava being grown underneath. 
 The age of the clove trees about here varies between 
 four, six, seven, and ten years, the eldest not exceeding 
 sixteen years of age. Generally speaking their appearance is 
 vigorous and healthy. Young trees usually have a marked 
 yellowish appearance in the foliage, which disappears as they 
 grow older. I saw some ten-year-old trees fully 30 to 35 feet, 
 and in some cases quite 40 feet high, but this is exceptional. 
 Other trees six to seven years old averaged 25 feet in height, 
 and appeared most luxuriant and vigorous, their foliage being 
 of a deep healthy green, while scattered about were many 
 younger trees, probably three to four years old. There is 
 certainly a marked difference between those growing in sandy 
 loam and those in a more consistent soil ; clay is undoubtedly 
 required for the clove tree, and wherever I noticed any sudden 
 and marked improvement in the appearance of the trees, the 
 soil was almost certain to contain clay. A certain number of 
 coco-nut trees are to be seen in the flat district, but they are 
 not numerous, and are often much neglected ; these trees, as 
 I have remarked, when found in clove plantations are thin 
 and lanky. Mango trees are scattered everywhere, some 
 being exceptionally fine. Orange and other fruit trees are 
 frequent. Bananas are much cultivated, and I noticed some 
 jmrticularly fine clumps. Indeed the luxuriance of the vege- 
 tation in this part of the island much impressed me, though 
 unfortunately " ilook " is very prevalent.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 KOKOTONI TO DUNGA 
 
 Continuous Clove Plantations — Arab Residences — Streams and Ridges — 
 M'Do — A Neglected Property — Mwera Valley — M'Zingam Plain — 
 Uunga. 
 
 At 6 a.m. on March 25, I left Kokotoni, marching south- 
 wards to M'Do, five hours distant, where there is a shamba 
 belonging to the Sultan. This is certainly the richest and 
 most fertile portion of the island. The journey took me five 
 hours exactly, marching at the rate of three miles an hour, 
 the total distance being fifteen miles. 
 
 1 think that a fairly accurate description of this part of the 
 country can be conveyed by a summary of its characteristics 
 .as noted during my journey. 
 
 From six o'clock, when I started, to 8.30 a.m., my direction 
 was due south, and the lay of the land undulating, with low 
 ridges. The soil on the ridges was of a bright red to 
 chocolate colour ; on the slope, a stiff clay loam ; in the 
 hollows, loamy black, with coral outcrop and traces of 
 sandstone substrata. After passing some fine orange trees, 
 and houses with cassava shambas, I entered some luxuriant 
 clove plantations, the average height of the trees being from 
 30 to 35 feet, and the circumference of the stems i to li 
 feet. The land was unusually clean, and the trees most 
 regularly planted, some forming quite a fine avenue along the 
 road. As usual, there was a good deal of uncleared land, but 
 the country as I advanced was well-populated, with numerous 
 houses and considerable ground cultivation. The soil was a 
 rich loamy black, very fibrous however from grass roots, and 
 I noticed this particularly in freshly-hoed land. Coco-nuts 
 
 529 M M
 
 530 2AKZ11;AR and PEMliA \\\Ki n 
 
 and mangoes were frequently planted amongst the clove trees, 
 and areca-nut palms along the roadside. The luxuriant 
 appearance of the country continued, and as I proceeded, the 
 land became covered with almost continuous clove planta- 
 tions, interspersed with cassava patches around the houses ; 
 with some fine jack trees {^Artocarpus integrifolid) growing 
 here and there. 
 
 Dungi clove plantation, which I now passed through, and 
 which belonged to the Sultan (or the Goverment), merits 
 special mention, as one of the finest I had ever seen. It is 
 clean and well weeded, and the trees are most luxuriant, with 
 a deep green foliage in many places quite shading the ground. 
 The clove trees planted along the roadside make quite an 
 imposing avenue. The planting distance is about 20 to 30 
 feet ; in fact the lines appear closer than they really are, 
 owing to the very luxuriant and robust condition of the 
 trees, the branches of the opposite rows often intermingling. 
 The soil is a deep red to darker chocolate clayey loam, and 
 the land slopes gently towards the east. 
 
 After leaving Dungi I emerged on open country, chiefly 
 uncleared, with the exception of some scattered cassava fields, 
 clumps of mango and coco-nut trees, some of the latter poor 
 and unhealthy in appearance ; then through more clove 
 plantations which, from their uncleared and grass-grown 
 condition, and general aspect, presented a great contrast to 
 the estate I had just left. 
 
 In this part of the country, where no regular clove planta- 
 tions exist, the land is a mixture of scattered cloves, young 
 and old, with numerous coco-nut, mango, and other fruit 
 trees, and in some places these appear to be as numerous as 
 cloves ; with here and there the usual patches of cassava. 
 
 After about two and a half hours' walking (say yh miles 
 from Kokotoni), I passed occasional large and substantial 
 stone-built Arab residences, one being shaded by a particular!}' 
 fine clump of jack trees ; the country here is very fertile. In 
 one large plantation that I passed, I observed some fine clove 
 trees. I measured the stem of one, which was 6 feet in 
 circumference at a height of 6 inches from the ground, but 
 the average girth was from i to 4 feet ; the trees had often
 
 RESTING AT THK WELL.
 
 CHAP. Ill ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 533 
 
 as many as four branching stems. On leaving this I 
 crossed a small watercourse (bridged) and ascended a slight 
 ridge on the other side. The soil, on the slope, was brown, 
 with much coral outcrop ; and on top of the ridge, a dark red 
 to chocolate. Then came open country, with rice cultivation 
 on the ridge side, which slopes gently down towards the 
 west, and opens out into a large plain thickly covered with 
 groves of coco-nut trees ; these, with alternate green rice- 
 fields, extend as far as the eye can sec, a charming picture of 
 a rich and fertile plain. 
 
 Proceeding along the top of the ridge, I found that the 
 soil varied from brown or chocolate loam to red and yellow 
 clay ; and I noticed that the clove trees, both on the road- 
 side and in the plantations, presented a change coincident 
 with that of the soil, becoming larger in the more clayey parts 
 of the country. Besides cloves, orange and other fruit trees, 
 there were numerous fields of maize, rice, and cassava, several 
 gardens surrounding houses, thick clumps of bananas and 
 coco-nuts, areca palms, sugar-cane patches, and man)' 
 mangoes. The fertile appearance of this part of the country 
 is, however, much marred by large areas of uncleared land ; 
 more particularly an extensive low-lying plain, A\hich I 
 crossed at 9.15 a.m., and which, with the exception of a few 
 scattered fields of cassava and some patches of rice in a 
 swampy hollow in the centre, was totally uncultivated and 
 thickly overgrown with tall grass, 3 to 4 feet high. 
 
 Having crossed a third small river and another low ridge, 
 I came upon scattered houses, with fine clumps of bananas 
 and numerous coco-nut trees, whilst jack trees became more 
 plentiful, taking the place of the disappearing mangoes. 
 Changes of soil were frequent, generally from red and darker 
 chocolate to a sandy grey loam. At 10 a.m. I came to the 
 end of the ridge and crossed two more streams, which, like 
 most of these rivers, had a thick growth of large-leaved aquatic 
 plants on their banks ; here I again passed through some very 
 fine, extensive clove plantations, and noticed many young 
 plants. There was occasional open cultivation, chiefly cassava ; 
 and the soil for the remainder of m)- journej' to M'Do was 
 of the following varieties — -.
 
 534 ZANZlIiAR AND PEMHA part ii 
 
 1. J^lack t(j i;rcy stiff loam, clayey. 
 
 2. Stiff black (sandy on surface) with red to yellow subsoil. 
 
 3. Dark yellow, very consistent, mixed with sandy loam. 
 Exceptin^Lj one or two small uncultivated plains, the 
 
 country up to M'Do presented a rich and luxuriant aspect ; 
 areca palms were here more frequent, but what struck me more 
 particularly was the large area under coco-nut cultivation, 
 indeed the number of these trees growing in this central part 
 of the island must be very large. For the last half-hour 
 before reaching M'Do, I travelled through continuous clove 
 plantations, extending on both sides as far as the eye could 
 see, with many houses nestling amongst the trees, some 
 surrounded with deep green, luxuriant bananas — a lovely 
 scene! In some plantations the soil was simply pure yellow 
 clay, and apparently unsuited to the growth of any other pro- 
 duct but cloves. The land was flat, with a few gentle ridges. 
 I arrived at 1 1 a.m. at M'Do, which belongs to the Sultan, 
 and camped under a fine mango tree, the seed of which was 
 imported from Reunion by the Sultan Seyyid Barghash. 
 
 This estate, once a fairly large sugar plantation and 
 extremely well situated, dates from the reign of Barghash, 
 who certainly showed much energy in endeavouring to de- 
 velop the resources of the island, agriculturally and commer- 
 cially. Since his death, things have been allowed to go to ruin. 
 The land, originally under sugar-cane, is now either abandoned 
 or sparsely cultivated by slaves. The factory is greatly out 
 of repair. The motive-power was water, the supply of which 
 was obtained from an adjacent well by a hand-w^orked pump 
 and conducted by iron pipes to the sugar-mill. There was at 
 one time a force of fully two hundred to two hundred and fifty 
 slaves on this plantation, but at the time of my visit the 
 numbers had dwindled down to barely forty. 
 
 A fine broad road, planted with cloves, traverses the prop- 
 erty from east to west. Towards the west there is a slight 
 ridge, but the land is elsewhere flat. Amongst the clove 
 trees the soil is chocolate to red loam ; in the old sugar land, 
 black to grey loam ; the subsoil, clay. 
 
 In the afternoon I had a conversation with the head-over- 
 seer, a fine old Arab named Mf)hamcd-bin-Saif Drumiki.
 
 CHAP. HI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 535 
 
 He had been in charge here for over twenty years, and fur- 
 nished me with much valuable information concerning the 
 agricultural customs and cultivation on the island. Moha- 
 med told me that most of the clove plantations date from 
 the great hurricane of 1872, when so man)- were destroyed. 
 He remembered trees before the hurricane which yielded 
 five frasila, or 175 lbs., of cloves each. He also stated that the 
 average length of life of the clove tree in Zanzibar was from 
 sixty to seventy years ; some of the trees growing before the 
 hurricane were still alive. 
 
 I left M'Do on March 26 at 7 a.m., proceeding cast and 
 south-cast, over a flat country, which presented the usual 
 features of numerous houses surrounded by banana clumps, 
 bazi, and scattered mango trees. The road then led me 
 through the clove plantations of the Sultan Sejyid AH — brother 
 of the late Sultan Khalifa, who was also a brother of his 
 predecessor, Barghash ; four sons of the Sultan Said, who died 
 in 1856, having successively occupied the Zanzibar throne 
 since that date. The soil was red to chocolate, and the 
 land was very flat. The path now inclined a little to the west, 
 and then to the south, leading into a low valley, with much 
 " ilook " grass, and a ridge running to the west. We then 
 followed a central ridge, and the opposite low hill was densely 
 covered with cloves, bananas, coco-nuts, etc. Cloves continued 
 on both sides, and we passed through a fine, wide avenue of 
 clove trees, and by the Sultan's plantation of " Kignamanzi," 
 an extensive property with a large stone house, the walls of 
 which were painted in a black and white check. The circum- 
 ference of the tree-stems here averaged from 12 to 18 inches, 
 that of the younger trees 6 inches. Proceeding south-east we 
 passed through thick banana, coco-nut, and mango clumps, 
 and numerous houses surrounded by fruit trees. The country 
 became more open and very flat, with a great deal of un- 
 cleared land. 
 
 Proceeding eastward I next passed through a low, flat 
 valley, with a good deal of banana cultivation on both sides 
 of a fine, wide, but neglected road. The path then crossed the 
 Mwera river, which flows rapidh- through the valle>' of that 
 name ; a new stone bridge was being built over it. On the
 
 536 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 opposite side the path led over a low hill, the soil near the 
 river being very stiff clay, and half-way up stiff chocolate to 
 yellow loam. From the hill-top a fine view was obtained 
 over the lately traversed country, which from this distance 
 seemed a dense grove of coco-nuts and bananas. On this 
 ridge is situated the fine and extensive plantation of " Kisim- 
 bani," the property of the Sultan. The trees, many of them 
 survivors of the hurricane of 1872, presented a really magni- 
 ficent appearance, being fully 30 to 40 feet high, and com- 
 pletely shading the ground. The soil is a deep red loam. 
 We then struck to the south, having luxuriant clove trees 
 all round us, the circumference of many of the stems being 
 quite 4 feet. "Hook" grass was very prevalent here; and a 
 little further on, the trees were not in any way so fine or so 
 vigorous, a fact undoubtedly due to the " ilook." On both 
 sides rose low, undulating ridges, covered as far as the eye 
 could see with clove trees. 
 
 Descending the ridge, the soil was a stiff deep red to 
 chocolate. In front rose another low hill, and below lay a 
 rich, fertile valley, named Machone, also the property of the 
 Sultan ; the small stream flowing through it was bordered 
 on both sides with mixed clumps of cloves and coco-nut 
 trees, and fields of luxuriant rice and sugar-cane. This valley 
 appeared to me to be well adapted for rice cultivation. On 
 the top of the opposite ridge an extensive and fairly clean 
 plantation occupied both sides of the road. It belonged to 
 Benoni-bin-Seyyid Sultan, the Sultan's brother, and consisted 
 of mixed cultivation — .cloves, sugar-cane, bananas, coco-nuts, 
 mango, orange, and other fruit trees. The clove trees were 
 mostly young, and the fields of sugar-cane looked promising. 
 There was a small sugar factory here, worked by water-power 
 obtained from a well. The soil was a deep loam mixed with 
 white sandstone; and in the sugar-cane fields a rich, stiff, 
 black loam. 
 
 After passing through more fields of sugar-cane, some 
 abandoned, m)' route struck south through a flat, rich 
 country, which, excepting the usual areas of uncleared land, 
 was fairly well cultivated. I especially noticed some exten- 
 sive and thickly-planted groves of coco-nuts. Houses were
 
 CHAP. Ill ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 537 
 
 fairly numerous, whilst in the distance were low hills planted 
 with clove trees ; the soil here was a rich, stiff, chocolate 
 loam. The road was very winding, but this afforded me 
 opportunities of seeing a great deal of the country. Emerg- 
 ing next upon a large uncleared plain called M'Zingam, I 
 was struck by its singular appearance ; there was a total 
 absence of trees, only here and there scattered clumps of low 
 bush, and the whole of the ground covered with grass and 
 bracken-fern ; the exceptional feature was the extraordinary 
 outcrop of coral rock everywhere. It struck me that by 
 regular burning, and turning cattle on immediately the grass 
 sprang up, this plain might be utilized as grazing land. After 
 this, an area of cultivation was again entered, whilst ahead 
 appeared the ridge called Dunga, distant from M'Do about 
 yh to 8 miles hy the road, but much less as the crow flies.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 THE WAHADINU COUNTRY — RETURN TO ZANZIBAR 
 
 Handsome Stone House— Dunga Hill — Visit to the Wahadinu Country 
 — Coral-strewn Plains— Return Westward — Cassava Fields — An Under- 
 ground Stream — Zanzibar again — Sir John Kirk's Garden at Mbweni, 
 
 DUNGA plantation possesses a large and handsome stone 
 house of two stones, much out of repair, but, at the time of 
 my visit, undergoing restoration. The property belonged to 
 the late Sultan's secretary, Mohamcd-bin-Saif A fine broad 
 avenue of clove trees leads up to the house, where I was 
 received with much courtesy, and took up my quarters 
 in a large up-stairs room. Curious old carved wooden bed- 
 steads occupied the two ends of my room, the floor of which 
 was covered with matting and a carpet. The windows were 
 of stained glass, of all colours, the lower half protected by 
 wrought-iron gratings, and the upper half by shutters ; in the 
 centre of the building there was a large open space or inner 
 courtyard, and stairs led up to the flat roof, which commanded 
 an extensive view over the surrounding country. The walls 
 of the house were 3 feet thick, and the outlet of the stairs on 
 the roof was covered with a small thatched porch. 
 
 The appearance of the country here is remarkable. 
 Dunga may be described as a low, flat hill, the low-lying 
 land on both sides consisting of the same extraordinarily 
 thick outcrop of coral rock, with thick bush and open grass 
 si)aces. Dunga plantation covers the greater extent of the 
 hill and consists of mixed cultivation ; I especially noticed 
 some vcr)' large clove trees, one of which, on measure- 
 iricnt, pro\-cd to be 5.^ feet in circumference at the base, and 
 
 53«
 
 CHAP. IV ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 539 
 
 was stated to be between sixty and seventy years old. The 
 soil is a grey loam, alternatinf^ with richer chocolate, and the 
 water supply, derived from wells, appeared to be abundant. 
 Of cassava, the cultivation is confined to the sweet, white- 
 stemmed variety, as the after-preparation of this is the most 
 simple. Both varieties, however, will sell at the same price, 
 and the cultivation of this product, as well as of chillies 
 {Capsicum annuum and Capsicum frutescens\ is carried on by 
 slaves in the small patches around their houses. I was told 
 at Kokotoni that it was the custom to allow people to squat 
 or settle on ground where cloves are cultivated, with per- 
 mission to cultivate cloves for their own use, on condition of 
 picking the proprietor's cloves when they are ripe. Such a 
 custom illustrates the prevailing lack of labour ; and on my 
 inquiring of the head-overseer of the Dunga estate the reason 
 for so much uncleared land being found on the property, he 
 informed me that it was solely due to want of slaves, of which 
 there were only sixty, and that double the number were required 
 to keep the estate in anything like proper order. I would 
 call especial attention to this circumstance, as this property 
 may be taken as a typical example, the proprietor being one 
 of the most notable Arabs of the island. I may remark here 
 that the arrangement of the clove nursery at Dunga appeared 
 somewhat ingenious, the stems of growing cassava being 
 utilized as supports of the top framework of sticks, which, 
 covered with coco-nut matting, shade the clove seedlings from 
 the sun. 
 
 At 7 a.m. on March 27, I left Dunga, accompanied by the 
 overseer, to inspect the barren country to the eastward, occupied 
 by the Wahadinu, who, as I have already remarked, are the 
 aboriginal race of Zanzibar Island, and are noted for witchcraft 
 and sorcery. On reaching the valley, the coral outcrop begins 
 at once, and the sudden cessation of cultivation is very striking. 
 In a hollow close by I visited a small chilli plantation among 
 the coral outcrop, which was everywhere black-coloured. The 
 area of this shamba was about a quarter of an acre, and it was 
 surrounded by a low coral-stone wall to keep out the wild 
 pigs, which are very numerous. The chilli plants were from 
 I-^- to 2 feet high. There were a few lanky coco-nut trees
 
 540 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part li 
 
 about, as well as zimbcrao trees {Eugenia malaccensis) ; the 
 latter yield a fruit somcthiiiLj like a plum, dark red in colour, 
 with a sweet acid taste. The soil was very black and fibrous. 
 
 Leaving the valley, I proceeded south, across an uncultivated 
 plain, covered with grass and bush, the outcrop of coral 
 increasing as I went on. After proceeding due east for about 
 two miles, we turned off to the north-east, the bush becoming 
 thicker, and in some places 8 feet high. Huge blocks of 
 coral lay across the path, and the soil had in places the 
 appearance of gravel, from the numerous minute pieces of 
 coral-stone scattered through it. The natives use specially- 
 made coir sandals for traversing this barren coral country. 
 
 At 8.30 a.m. I came upon another small chilli plantation 
 belonging to the Wahadinu people ; the ground was so covered 
 with a jagged coral outcrop bleached white by the sun — in the 
 bush it is generally black, or dark-coloured — that the earth 
 could not be seen. This shamba had an area of about 3 acres, 
 the plants being from 3 to 4 feet high, bushy and luxuriant, and 
 appearing to thrive well in the soil. Tobacco with very small 
 leaves and pinkish-white flowers seemed as much grown as 
 the pepper plant ; pumpkins and tomatoes also flourished. 
 This part of the island consists of a succession of undu- 
 lating ridges and valleys, the summits of the hills being 
 general!)- flat. The sterile coral plain lying to the east 
 of Dunga is called " Waanda " ; beyond it lies another low 
 hill, called " Waanda Kitowoni." As I proceeded, cultiva- 
 tion re-appeared, with clumps of coco-nuts, scattered mangoes, 
 and fields of rice and maize, and very fine and luxuriant 
 fields of chillies growing round the houses of a Wahadinu 
 village. The capsicums grown on this land yield the large red 
 and yellow pods sold in the town of Zanzibar, and are not so 
 pungent as the small " bird's-eye " chillies grown in the 
 " Waanda." 
 
 Proceeding down the centre of the ridge, I passed a good 
 many houses surrounded by bananas, mangoes, coco-nuts and 
 jack trees, but the cultivated area, chiefly chillies, was com- 
 paratively small and gradually decreased, the outcrop of coral 
 becoming more frequent. I was much interested b}' the sight 
 of a huge coral rock, rising sheer out of the path, full)- 90
 
 CHAP. IV ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 54 1 
 
 or 100 feet high, and of great circumference, called locally 
 " Limani." Looking southwards from this rock, the country 
 appears all grass and bush, with a thick coral outcrop, the soil 
 being a friable dark-coloured loam, much mixed with coral. 
 " Limani " rock was the limit of my explorations, time not 
 permitting of my proceeding further in a westerly direction. I 
 returned passing through another and larger village of the 
 Wahadinu, surrounded by large mango trees, coco-nut and 
 banana clumps. I noticed leaves of tobacco tied in " hands," or 
 bunches, and hung up to dry on the outside walls of the houses ; 
 the largest leaves were about 8 inches by 4I inches, six-veined 
 and light yellow in colour. The fields were always pro- 
 tected by coral-stone walls against the wild pigs. Again de- 
 .scending, but by a different path, into the Waanda or coral 
 valley, the coral outcrop presented here the appearance of grey 
 lava ; in some places it so completely covered the ground 
 that it was absolutely impossible to distinguish the nature 
 of the soil, yet all around was thick bush. The soil, where 
 discernible, was black, very friable and fibrous. About the 
 centre of the valley I came across another small Wahadinu 
 clearing, about half-an-acre in extent, the coral rock being 
 here bleached white from exposure. 
 
 Tobacco was growing in this clearing. The plants are not 
 topped, but allowed to flower, and these were from 4 to 5 feet 
 high, thin and lanky in appearance, the flowers pinky-white, 
 and the lance-shaped leaves from 5 to 10 inches long by 
 4| to 5 inches wide. Where the bush had been burnt, 
 bracken-fern had sprung up. It is a curious fact that the 
 thicker the coral outcrop, the denser the bush ; and I remarked 
 that on leaving the latter, and emerging once more on the 
 grass plain below Dunga Hill, the coral was less noticeable. 
 Close to the hill the soil improves, and in the thicker bush 
 existing here I again noticed the increased outcrop of coral. 
 We finally got back to Dunga plantation after a very hot and 
 tiring tramp over the coral rocks, it having taken us two and 
 a half hours to traverse the distance between the two ridges 
 of Waanda Kitowoni and Dunga. The country be}'ond the 
 former ridge, I was told, also presented the same character- 
 istics — bush and thick coral. I left Dunga at 7 a.m. on
 
 54^ ZANZIBAR AND I'EMDA part n 
 
 March 28, on my return to Zanzibar, proceeding in a southerly 
 direction along the Dunga ridge, having on my right a 
 continuation of the uncultivated M'Zingam plain, whilst 
 on my left lay the coral plain, traversed the day before. 
 At first the country, named " Wangvva (or Waanda) a 
 Dunga," is uncultivated and overgrown with bush and high 
 grass ; it is flat, with coral outcrop in patches, and the soil 
 appears good — a dark consistent brown loam. Beyond this 
 it gradually improves, and I passed at long intervals a few 
 native gardens with coco-nuts, mangoes, jack trees and 
 cassava ; the clove cultivation being limited to scattered 
 trees. 
 
 Further on, the soil became a lighter loam with more coral 
 outcrop, its depth evidenced by the fine mangoes growing 
 here and there in the uncleared land, these trees being also 
 evidence of a former cultivation. Beyond a shamba called 
 " Jonga " the soil changes to red, and in places to a dark 
 chocolate loam, with high bush and bracken. I noticed 
 in the few scattered clove trees that the young flower buds 
 were just beginning to shoot. The country along here 
 may still be described as very slightly cultivated — only a few 
 scattered shambas were to be seen, and occasional coco-nut 
 trees. This large extent of now uncultivated land was once 
 all under metamah {^Sorghum vulgare), or millet cultivation, 
 and on both sides of the path extend the abandoned fields, 
 still surrounded by their protecting walls of coral-stone. All 
 this country was formerly the property of the last " Sultan " 
 of Dunga, Muini Ku Wadunga, and cultivated by his people. 
 The Dunga ridge gradually slopes down to the surrounding 
 country, and we now left it behind by striking westward and 
 crossing an uncultivated valley, beyond which we entered a 
 richer and more cultivated area. This district is called Jumbvi, 
 and the cultivation was luxuriant and of considerable extent, 
 with extensive groves of thickly-planted coco-nuts, numerous 
 jack and orange trees, areca palms, banana clumps, and ground 
 cultivation, including some ground-nuts and capsicums. 
 I turned off the main road at a small flooded valley, to 
 visit M'Korogo Hill. All the country at its base is flat, coco- 
 nuts being the chief product ; some mangoes which I saw here
 
 CHAP. IV ZANZIBAR AND PKMBA 543 
 
 were really immense trees. The cultivation included both 
 "mjugu mawe," the Bambarra ground-nut [Voandzcia snb- 
 ierrancd), producing small white round nuts, chiefly an article 
 of food, being boiled and eaten ; and " mjugu nyassa," the 
 ground-nut of commerce {Arachis Jiypogcea). 
 
 To my repeated inquiries as to the cause of so much un- 
 cleared land, the invariable answer was always " want of 
 labour ; " the people readily admit the fact that many fertile 
 areas are left uncultivated, but say : " What can we do ? we 
 have no slav'es ! " 
 
 Returning to the Zanzibar main road and continuing due 
 west, I proceeded over gently undulating ground, the soil 
 being still rich and fertile. The cultivation here pre- 
 sented quite a different aspect from that of the other parts 
 of the island, cloves being absent — a fact explained by the 
 character of the soil, which consists entirely of a grey to black 
 sandy loam. However, on its suddenly changing to stiff red 
 loam, clove trees appeared once more, at first scattered,, but 
 gradually increasing in numbers. The chief cultivation, how- 
 ever, was cassava, the plants being in places fully 8 feet high, 
 fields of it extending on both sides of the way. The 
 system practised here is to cultivate the land with cassava for 
 one or two years, and then let it lie fallow, this being the only 
 means of recuperation for the soil. Jumb\'i is undoubtedl)', 
 on the whole, a rich and fertile district, but much marred by 
 a large extent of uncultivated land. The water is supplied 
 altogether from wells. 
 
 Leaving Jumbvi district and passing on to that of Mwera, 
 the way led through several " wangwa," the soil of these 
 being still black, but less friable than at Dunga, and showing 
 much disintegrated coral, coral outcrop, and grass. Beyond, 
 the country resumed its fertility, with clumps of coco-nuts and 
 oranges, and patches of cassava. I next passed by a series 
 of pools and flat grass-land, which are flooded in the wet 
 season. Diverging again from the direct Zanzibar road to 
 visit " Bonde la Mzungu," I passed on the way " Mwera," a 
 large and much-neglected plantation of mixed cultivation. 
 The whole place was simply overgrown, and many of the clove 
 trees were almost hidden by bush and creepers, the place
 
 544 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part II 
 
 having been evidently untouched for months past. The soil 
 was red to chocolate, with a clay subsoil, becoming black and 
 clayey in the swampy valley of " Bonde la Mzungu." The 
 river Mwera, which is here about 5 feet wide, and shallow, 
 flows in at the upper end, disappearing suddenly underground 
 through a cavity in a coral rock situated in the middle of the 
 valley. The river can be heard gurgling and rushing under- 
 ground (the fall evidently being very rapid), and only reappears 
 on the sea-beach, miles away. The mouth of the cavity is 
 comparatively small, and the greater portion of the water 
 spreads out around the rock, forming a swamp, which in the 
 rainy season attains large proportions. At this time the 
 swamp was overgrown with high coarse grass, and occasional 
 patches of sugar-cane. 
 
 On the other side of the river the land was flat, with a coral 
 outcrop, and in the main uncleared ; the cultivation was chiefly 
 cassava and sweet potatoes, with scattered clumps of mangoes 
 and coco-nut trees, and occasionally small clove shambas. 
 One of these, named " Kikokani " (from " Kikoka," creeping 
 grass), about a mile from the swamp, consisted chiefly of 
 young clove plants. The soil was now brown loam and more 
 consistent. In the Fuoni district, through which I next 
 passed, I noticed a good deal of ground-nut cultivation and 
 thick groves of coco-nuts ; there was a fine road, 20 feet 
 wide, planted on both sides with young clove trees, but these 
 excellent roads are only to be found close to the town of 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 I was now about one hour's march from Zanzibar (3 to 3J- 
 miles), and here again I crossed a river, the Mwera 
 Korokwe, flowing through a low valley, named Bonde 
 la Mwera Korokwe. Beyond it, I resumed my march over 
 an open, flat plain, totally uncultivated, w ith a deep white to 
 grey sandy soil, which made walking in places very heavy 
 and trying. On approaching Zanzibar the houses became 
 numerous and larger, surrounded with banana clumps, coco- 
 nuts, mango, and other trees. 
 
 Although I noticed but few clove trees, and these planted 
 chiefly along avenues and round houses, I was impressed with 
 the fact that, though perhaps not so fine as elsewhere, they
 
 CHAP. IV ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 545 
 
 could grow in this very sandy soil, proving how very congenial 
 is the soil of this island to the clove, though, judging from the 
 enormous size of some of the mango and jack trees, the subsoil 
 probably makes amends for the sandy nature of the surface. 
 
 I finally reached the outskirts of the town of Zanzibar at 
 12 noon, on March 28, having marched steadily on since 
 I left Dunga plantation at 7 a.m. that morning ; I was 
 not .sorry to return to the rest and comparative comfort of my 
 hotel, after ten days' examination of the country, which had 
 entailed a good deal of arduous work, and many long and 
 fatiguing marches. 
 
 Two days later I paid a most interesting visit to Sir John 
 Kirk's garden at Mbweni, situated about four miles south of the 
 town of Zanzibar. During the period Sir John Kirk resided 
 at Zanzibar as her Majesty's Agent and Consul-General, he 
 maintained at his own expense this experimental garden, in 
 which he cultivated every useful tropical plant likely to be 
 adaptable to the climate. His collection of plants is wonder- 
 fully large, and bears witness to much trouble, care and intel- 
 ligence. My observations during my visit to the shamba were 
 necessarily brief, but I subjoin some interesting information 
 in Appendix F. 
 
 The estate now belongs to the Universities Mission ; 
 the soil consists of a friable grey to black, combined in 
 places with a more consistent red to yellow loam, and is 
 typical of the soil of the island generally, and therefore 
 excellently adapted to the purpose Sir John Kirk had in 
 view. Amongst the plants (many of which were quite new to 
 me), I noticed Liberian coffee, neglected and suffering from 
 leaf disease (^Hcmelcia vastatrix) ; three varieties of Eucalypti, 
 the blue gum {^Eucalyptus globulus), small and stunted, the 
 other two red gums very luxuriant and over 40 feet high ; 
 one or two mahogany trees, also weak and unhealthy-looking, 
 though I understand that the mahogany {Sivieteiiia maJwgani) 
 is said to grow well on the island ; cinnamon, pimento, cacao, 
 tea, coco de mer {Lodoicca), producing the celebrated double 
 coco-nut of the Seychelles ; vanilla, varieties of plantain and 
 banana from the interior, very large-leaved ; tree-aloes, sup- 
 ported by curiously-shaped roots, and somewhat resembling 
 
 N N
 
 54<'> ZANZIIJAK AND I'E.MHA pakT II 
 
 the mangrove in growth ; fine varieties of crotons ; with 
 many indigenous fruit and other trees, and, lastly, some 
 rubbers, among which I noticed the several varieties of 
 LatidolpJiicB (order Apocynaccte), particularly the L. Kirkii, 
 which the man in charge said grew with great luxuriance, 
 covering everything, so that they had to be cut down. I was 
 especially struck with the fine appearance of some Ceara 
 rubber trees {Manikot glaziovii), and was informed that 
 their growth was so rapid that they too had to be periodically 
 cut down. I measured a very fine one, and found its girth 
 to be 6 feet at 3i feet from the ground. All the stumps of 
 the trees had suckers shooting up again most vigorously.
 
 ZANZIBAR 
 
 Ms. 
 
 JhlL 
 
 B&aBxip^ oJOkortgoiu. UJoMga^^ ^£xmge^ 
 
 
 
 JhjnzLnda^ 
 
 ^iCLnxEjribe/ 
 
 &yale/ 
 
 Vzi TO 'i 
 
 JSakuruiachiii\ 
 
 J\m^uza.e 
 
 f)cV K^t^angajmuU. JBande,> 
 
 39*^5' I^on^vbxde' EcLBt of (rT-e-crt*vtWi 
 
 -1 Ukaiara/ 
 
 
 /" 
 
 ChapTTumj irSalh.LtxL. II Sertnetta Stre-e^, Londorv, W. C. 
 
 rSWeller.itM..
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 CULTIVATION AND AGRICULTURE IN ZANZIBAR 
 
 Cultivated Products — The Labour Question — Desirability of Indian 
 Immigration — Need of English Capital — Agricultural Capabilities of 
 the Island. 
 
 I PROPOSE in this chapter to summarize the results of my 
 observations on the cultivation and agriculture of the island, 
 with the conclusions I have drawn from them. 
 
 On examining the vegetable products, wild and cultivated, 
 growing on the island, one is impressed at once by their 
 variety and number, notably in the case of those of commer- 
 cial importance. In the list which I give below I have 
 derived much assistance from Sir John Kirk's valuable paper 
 on the subject.^ 
 
 The chief cultivated COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS to which I 
 shall refer are — The clove, coco-nut, betel-nut palm, and 
 chillies. 
 
 Amongst FRUIT TREES are the following — The mango, 
 jack (^Artocarpus integrifolia, L.), papaw {Carka papaya, L.), 
 all the principal varieties of the citrus or orange family, the 
 custard apple, sour sop, sweet sop, litchi, rose apple, jambosa 
 {Eugenia jambolana), " zimberao " {Eugenia vialaccensis, L.), 
 the bread-fruit {Artocarpiis incisa, L.), pomegranate, the guava, 
 the cashew nut {Anacardiiini occidentale, L.) — the last two very 
 common, and found in most native gardens — the passion-fruit 
 (the large Grenadilla), the common fig tree, date palm, vine 
 (yields poorly), mulberry (the small Indian black variety), 
 
 ' " The Agricultural Resources of Zanzibar,'' Keio Bulletin, No. 64, 
 April 1S92. 
 
 547
 
 5+S ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part II 
 
 durian {Durio zibethinus, D.C.), and the rambutan {NepJidhini 
 lappacenni, L.), introduced by the Sultan Seyyid Said fifty 
 years ago. 
 
 Of SPICE TREES, in addition to the clove, the nutmeg, 
 cinnamon, and pimento all grow and appear to do well, but 
 no attention is paid to their cultivation. 
 
 Of OTHER PRODUCTS there are coffee, the arnotto plant {Bixa 
 orel/ana, L., also common), cotton {Gossypimn spp.), the silk- 
 cotton tree, the oil palm (also indigenous on the island of 
 Pemba, from which the kernels were exported in considerable 
 quantities upwards of twenty years ago), and the Henna plant 
 (growing everywhere). 
 
 Many valuable FOREIGN TREES and plants, most of which 
 are doing well, have also been introduced, and Zanzibar owes 
 a large debt of gratitude in this matter to the energy and enter- 
 prise of Sir John Kirk. Amongst many others may be men- 
 tioned — the jujube tree {ZizypJms jujuba, Lam.), the avocado 
 pear {Persea gratissiuia^ Gaertn.), cacao, tea, Ceara rubber, 
 Hevea brasiliensis (the Para rubber),' logwood (which grows 
 well and appears well adapted to the soil and climate), Liberian 
 coffee, mahogany, the mangosteen, Chinese cassia {Cinna- 
 vioinuiii cassia, Bl.), and the American aloe. 
 
 Of ALIMENTARY PLANTS, the sugar-cane, bananas, cassava 
 or manioc, arrowroot, the Bambarra ground-nut ( Voandzeia 
 siibtcrranca, Thouars), called locally " mjugu mawe," may be 
 mentioned. There are also several varieties of beans, peas, 
 and pulse, including the Congo pea {Cajanus indiacs). 
 
 The GRAINS include rice, maize, two varieties of millet 
 {Sorghmn vulgare and Pennisetuin typ/ioideiun), and also raggy 
 {Eleiisine coracand). 
 
 Vegetables — The tomato (very common), yams, pumpkin, 
 brinjal {Solaimin melongena), sweet potato {Batatas ediilis, 
 Lam.), vegetable-marrow, etc. 
 
 Oil plants — The ground or earth-nut [Arachis hypog<£a\ 
 gingelly {Sesanmin indicuvi), locally known as "sim-sim," the 
 castor-oil plant, and also a Cucurbitaccous plant {Te/fairia 
 Oicidentalis). 
 
 Dyes — Indigo and orchella weed. 
 
 Fibrk-vieldinc; plants — Of aloes, the two varieties of
 
 CHAP. V ZANZIBAR AND TEMBA 549 
 
 Ficrcraa gigantca, the Mauritius hemp, grow well ; of the 
 Sansevieria species common on the island, Sir John Kirk 
 remarks that they comj^are unfavourably with the mainland 
 variety, being too short in the fibre to have any commercial 
 \'alue. The common pineapj^le may be included among the 
 fibre-yielding plants ; it grows most luxuriant)}' in a half-w ild 
 state. 
 
 Cultivation. — Cultivation is carried on almost entirely 
 by slaves, with the exception of the few free labourers hired 
 in the height of the clove-picking season. At the time of my 
 visit, a scarcity of labourers was affecting all estates, not 
 excepting those of the Sultan, and this want is forcibly 
 exemplified by the large area of abandoned fertile land. 
 The chief product of the island being that of the clove 
 tree, which requires a large supply of labour, this labour 
 question becomes a serious and important one, and upon its 
 solution all future agricultural development will depend. 
 Pending that solution, not only is the general prosperity of 
 the island and that of owners of estates at stake, but the 
 public revenue (which is raised chiefl}^ from the tax upon 
 cloves) is equally jeopardized, and the enterprise of Govern- 
 ment crippled, whilst the interests of British Indian subjects, 
 who have advanced large sums of money on the securit}' of 
 the estates, are menaced with serious loss. It is evident that 
 the slave population has greatly diminished, and continues to 
 do so, under our preventative measures put in force against 
 importation of slaves from the mainland ^ ; and it is the conse- 
 quences of this that claim our consideration. The character 
 borne by freed slaves for industry, or \\illingness to work with- 
 out supervision, is so little encouraging that estate proprietors, 
 and those whose capital is involved in the successful cultivation 
 of estates, may justly contemplate with dismay the prospect of 
 dependence upon a labour supply of that unreliable character! 
 
 Imported labour appears the only remed}\ No depend- 
 ence can be placed upon importation of free labour from the 
 African mainland, for the Swahili of the coast, as well as 
 the native tribes beyond, are not the material from which a 
 
 1 Since these lines were written the status of slavery has been alwlislicd 
 in the islands of Zanzibar and Pcmba,
 
 550 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ll 
 
 labour .sui:)ply could be drawn with any immediate chance of 
 success. These inland tribes are on the whole better workers 
 than the somewhat enervated coast people, but with the en- 
 couragement and protection which an organized Government 
 will afford them, both they and the Swahili will have ample 
 scope for industry in their own country, and this will effec- 
 tually counteract all inducements to seek work in the islands. 
 Everything points to the conclusion that it is to the intro- 
 duction of labour from elsewhere that Zanzibar, Pemba, and 
 the British coast generally must look for the means of future 
 development. If places so distant as the West Indies are 
 enabled, since the abolition of slaver}', to thoroughly depend 
 upon a foreign labour supply, Zanzibar, so much more advan- 
 tageously situated, need not have any apprehension on this 
 .score. Mauritius ma}- be cited as a case in point. Zanzibar 
 and the neighbouring coast have been for many }'ears so 
 intimately associated with India, commercially and politically, 
 that they offer a natural and specially favourable outlet for 
 the settlement of the overflowing population of our Indian 
 empire. Moreover, the introduction of a steady, industrious, 
 and intelligent people would prove of the highest advantage, 
 stimulating and educating by their example and presence, 
 both the indolent freed slaves and the Swahili. The import- 
 ance of placing speedil}' within reach of the landowners, all 
 the advantages of a free imported labour, seems to afford a 
 strong argument in favour of compensation for the loss of 
 their present labour supply ; nor, from a purel}' economic 
 point of view, does it appear to be sound policy on the part 
 of the Zanzibar Government to allow the value of landed 
 securities, on which large sums have been advanced, to be 
 further impaired, nor to leave the impoverished landowners to 
 struggle unassisted towards a newer and better state of things. 
 Given the necessary capital for its emplo}-ment, free 
 imported Indian labour could not fail to bring about large 
 and immediate results, both b}' the increased area restored to 
 cultivation, and the newer and more lucrative methods that 
 would be quickly introduced. 
 
 This question of capital now brings us to another important 
 aspect of the future development of the countr\-. Undoubt-
 
 CHAP. V ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 551 
 
 edly the great factor required for the full development of the 
 latent wealth of the soil is the encouragement of European 
 capital and enterprise. In a letter I received from Sir John 
 Kirk in the early part of last year, that experienced and high 
 authority pointed to the success of the coffee plantation in 
 Nyasaland, and the encouragement to scientific research 
 given by our active commissioner, Sir Harry Johnston, and 
 added : " There is much need for the same help in East Africa, 
 and still more do we there require some Scotch planters, men 
 with small capital, but men who are content to settle and work 
 hard at the beginning." 
 
 The sooner European enterprise can be attracted, the 
 quicker will development commence. The Government can 
 do much to bring this about by making better known the 
 fertility of the country and its adaptability for the cultivation 
 of so many remunerative products. I would also suggest the 
 extension of roads throughout the island. The importation 
 of cattle as draught animals for cart traffic would also conduce 
 very greatly to agricultural development, for at present (1 
 speak of the time of my visit) the only means of conveying 
 produce to the coast is on porters' heads. 
 
 In the earlier part of this volume I have drawn attention 
 to the marked similarity, as regards temperature, between 
 Zanzibar and Kingston (Jamaica), and I would further 
 emphasize this similarity to the West Indies by quoting a 
 table of the temperature and rain-fall of the island of Trini- 
 dad, the great cacao-producing island of that region, for 
 which I am indebted to Mr. J. H. Hart's valuable hand-book 
 on cacao cultivation.^ 
 
 The Temperature, etc.. Record of the Trinidad Royal Botanic Gardens. 
 
 Mean of 4 years, ending 1S90 . . . j 78"6 | — 
 
 Minimum ' 69'4 j — 
 
 Maximum 86"8 — 
 
 Mean annual humidity I 79° — 
 
 The 4 years' mean rain-fall was ... 1 — 7i"55 
 
 The mean for 35 years was .... — I 64*49 
 
 * Cocoa; its Natural Histo)y, Culiu7\\ and Preparation, by J. H. 
 Hart, F.L.S., Superintendent of the Trinidad Royal Botanic C.ardens.
 
 552 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA PART II 
 
 Then as to the soil : " The land," it is stated in letters frcMii 
 Jamaica {Tropical Agriculturist, December 1891;, "is flat, the 
 soil red as in parts of Devonshire, and there is a subsoil of 
 marl." Thus it will be seen that a marked similarity in the 
 matter of rain-fall, temperature, and soil exists between Zanzi- 
 bar and the most productive islands of the West Indies, and 
 there can be no doubt, indeed it is already evidenced by the 
 interesting collection of plants made by Sir John Kirk at 
 Mbweni, that the products cultivated in the lowlands of the 
 West Indies can also be successfully introduced into Zanzibar. 
 
 The agricultural possibilities of Zanzibar appear to be so 
 little known that I have dwelt fully upon the chief 
 characteristics of its soil and cultivation, for not only are its 
 present products capable of much greater development, but 
 the soil, climate and rain-fall render it particularly suitable for 
 the introduction and successful cultivation of many others. 
 As I have shown, the soil can be described, with a few 
 exceptions, as everywhere fertile, in some districts especially 
 so. Undoubtedly the most important industries on the island 
 consist in the cultivation of cloves and coco-nuts, and the 
 acreage planted with these two products covers the principal 
 portion of the cultivated area. 
 
 The native system of agriculture is evidently ver}' back- 
 ward, and the ordinary process is to allow exhausted land to 
 revert back to grass and bush, to be reclaimed when required. 
 The noxious weeds and grasses, especially " ilook," which this 
 system encourages, do much harm by getting a strong hold 
 upon the land, from which light hoeings, however frequent, 
 with the primitive tool in use, will not dislodge them ; I have 
 noticed almost everywhere in newly-dug-up land, that the soil 
 was matted and bound up with fibrous grass-roots. 
 
 Little or no manuring is done, the manure of camels, cows, 
 goats, etc., being used in small gardens alone.
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 CLOVE CULTIVATION IN ZANZIBAR 
 
 Importance of the Clove— Its Introduction into Zanzibar — Method of 
 Cultivation — Enemies of the Clove—Yield of Trees — Export — 'Neces- 
 sary Reforms, 
 
 The clove tree is undoubtedly the principal and most impor- 
 tant product of Zanzibar, and is grown wherever possible, from 
 the few trees owned by the more humble cultivator, to the 
 extensive plantations belonging- to the Sultan and wealths- 
 Arabs. 
 
 This being the case, and if we bear in mind its possible 
 extended development and improved cultivation, it follows 
 that every fact relating to the character and nature of the tree 
 becomes of importance, so for information, and purposes of 
 comparison, I give as an ap|)endix a description of the tree 
 and the various methods that are adopted elsewhere in its 
 cultivation and harvesting. (See Appendix G.) 
 
 The soil of Zanzibar is eminently adapted for the cultivation 
 of the clove, being a dark loam, having underneath a layer of 
 dusky yellow earth, intermixed with gravel ; also a reddish- 
 yellow stiff clay. The clove tree requires clay, and I observed 
 there was always a marked difference in appearance between 
 trees growing on a clay soil — red by preference — and those 
 found on lighter ground. The finest trees were always grow- 
 ing either on red clay or on a stiff dark red to darker chocolate, 
 soil. 
 
 The clove tree (^CaryopJiylliis nromaticus, Linn., formerly 
 Eugenia caryophyllata) is a native of the Moluccas, and was 
 first introduced into the island of Mauritius and Bourbon 
 (Reunion) b\- the h^rench in 1770. At the end of that 
 
 553
 
 554 ZANZir.AR AND PEMBA part ll 
 
 century an Arab named Harameli-bin-Saleh, accompanied a 
 French officer from Zanzibar to Bourbon, and obtained per- 
 mission to take back a small quantity of seeds and plants 
 with him. This was the commencement of the clove cultiva- 
 tion in Zanzibar, where, as in the island of Pemba, it gradually 
 became the principal product, supplying an annual export of 
 7,000,000 to 11,000,000 lbs. 
 
 In 1872 a cyclone swept over the islands, causing terrible 
 destruction amongst the clove plantations, which took many 
 years to recover from it. The United States Consul reporting 
 on the 1887-88 crop, which was the largest gathered since the 
 hurricane, estimates it for Zanzibar alone at 1,400,000 lbs., and 
 for Pemba Island at 3,500,000 lbs., making a total of 4,900,000 
 lbs., which realized ;:^i, 260,120, or an average of nine dollars a 
 frasila. The cultivation has steadily increased, and the tree is 
 now again the principal product of the island. 
 
 The different methods by which this cultivation is now 
 carried on are evidently borrowed from the French. The 
 Swahili word for clove, " garafu," is probably a corruption of 
 the French word " giroflier." 
 
 Nurseries. — The seeds are first soaked in water for three 
 days, and when germination has set in they are planted out 
 6 inches apart, with the bud end above ground, in shaded 
 beds — the usual practice being to put down two seeds together 
 in case of failure. If a large number of plants are to be 
 grown the seeds are put down 3 to 4 inches apart only. 
 
 Size of beds. — Beds are about 6 feet wide, and of any length. 
 They are shaded by a flat framework of sticks, over which is 
 placed a layer of dry grass or coco-nut leaves ; the height of 
 this framework from the ground is about 3 to 30 feet. 
 
 Watering. — There is no regular rule for this, the important 
 point being to keep the beds constantly damp. The slaves 
 in charge go over the nursery beds both morning and 
 evening, watering any of which the surface has become dry, 
 the practice being to sprinkle water with the hand from the 
 water jar. As long as the seedling is not thoroughly developed, 
 this is done every day ; when the plants are above ground, 
 every other day ; when 6 inches high, once a week or ten 
 days.
 
 CHAP. VI 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 555 
 
 Hardening. — The plants are kept, on an average, from nine 
 months to one year in shaded beds. When about 6 inches 
 high they are by degrees hardened, by the thatch of the frame- 
 work being gradually removed, and are then left in the open 
 beds freely exposed to s^unshine for the space of one or two 
 months before planting out.^ 
 
 Lining is done by rope ; no pegs are used, the distances 
 being marked by a cut with the hoe. This work is very 
 carefully carried out, and the appearance of the majority of 
 plantations is very striking in this respect, the trees presenting 
 an unbroken and uniform straight line whichever way one 
 looks. 
 
 Holing. — The process of holing is as follows — • 
 
 A large circular sloping hole, 4 feet in diameter, is cut, in 
 the centre of which is cut a smaller hole, i foot by i foot or 9 
 inches ; this smaller hole receives the plant ; the wide upper 
 portion remains unfilled, and serves as a catch-drain or 
 reservoir. This is in process of time gradually filled up by 
 weeds, fallen leaves, etc. 
 
 I ,evel 
 
 \ 
 
 (4 feet) of ground 
 
 ...£., 
 
 (Plant) 
 (i foot) 
 
 Planting. — Special care is also taken in planting out. 
 
 The earth round the plant is loosened hy a peculiar 
 
 ^ The following information respecting the prices of seeds and plants 
 may be of interest. As a rule no seed is sold, but, if a demand arises, one 
 basketful (the ordinary "kikapo") is sold for i dollar. The price of 1000 
 hardened plants, 6 inches or more in height, is 16 dollars. Plants self- 
 grown, under the trees, are sold at the same rates, the purchaser having 
 to collect them.
 
 556 ZANZ1I5AR AND PEMBA part li 
 
 triangular-shaped spade called a " moaa," used especially on 
 clove plantations in Zanzibar, in addition to the ordinary 
 native " jembe," or hoe. 
 
 The plant is then carefully lifted out by the hand with as 
 much earth adhering to the roots as possible, and placed upon 
 two strips of banana fibre previously placed crosswise upon 
 the ground. (Each strip of fibre is about 3 inches to 4 inches 
 wide, by i J feet to 2 feet in length.) The four ends are then 
 taken up and wrapped round the plant and firmly tied 
 together. The plant is then carried to its destination,^ the 
 strips of fibre effectually keeping the earth in position. Before 
 planting, the pieces of fibre passing beneath arc cut at each 
 corner, and the plant finally placed in the hole prepared for 
 it and the earth heaped round ; the four ends of the fibre left 
 at the sides are then removed one by one ; the bottom portion 
 having been cut through, this can be done with ease. 
 
 After planting out, if the weather is hot, or in the event of 
 drought, the young plant is watered in the evening daily, and 
 watering is continued as required until it attains the height of 
 18 inches, or, roughly speaking, during the space of one year. 
 The plants are not shaded in any way after planting out. 
 
 TJie young plants : ivecding, etc. — At this time weeding is 
 performed every week, and the ground kept perfectly clean, 
 otherwise the plant would die. There appears to be great 
 mortality amongst the young plants, so that gaps have often 
 to be filled up, and a nursery is deemed indispensable for fi\'e 
 years after a plantation is first opened up. Probably if they 
 were shaded until established, placed at a higher level, less 
 frequently watered, and better hardened before [)lanting out, 
 this excessi\'e mortality would be checked. 
 
 After-cultivation. — As a general rule no ground or other 
 
 ' Tlie planting- distances appear to vary, and no regular rules appear 
 to exist. The most customary, as given to me by Ragu, thehead-ovcrsccr 
 of the Sultan's plantations, is 16 thiraa (24 English feet) apart, Inu in 
 small jilantations it is 3 pima (18 feet), rising in larger ones to 6 i)inia 
 (36 feet). 
 
 ZANZH'.AR MEASURES OF LENGTH. 
 
 2 thiraa = i yard = i wari. 
 
 2 wari = I pima = i fathom or 6 feet,
 
 CHAP. VI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 557 
 
 cultivation is permitted amongst the cloves, but slaves every- 
 where appear free to cultivate their own plots and gardens 
 amongst the trees, and I have observed cassava growing in a 
 clearing of young clove trees ; the general run of small 
 "shambas" consists of cloves, coco-nuts, mangoes, and other 
 fruit trees, all planted indiscriminately and close together. 
 
 No pruning whatever appears to be done, nor manuring, 
 apart from the accumulation of fallen leaves ; this, in the 
 more favoured localities w^iere the rows of clove trees shade 
 the ground, must add greatly to the fertility of the soil, the 
 accumulation of leaves being considerable, and the flat nature 
 of the ground preventing wash. 
 
 A^e and appearance of trees. — There are some trees growing 
 on the island which are said to be nearly ninety years of age, 
 but the average length of life of the clove trees in Zanzibar 
 appears to be from sixty to seventy years. 
 
 The appearance of clove plantations is, as a rule, most 
 healthy and luxuriant, the height of the more matured trees 
 averaging fully 40 feet, the branches of the two rows often 
 completely shading the ground. Clove trees generally have 
 forked stems, and often as many as three or four ; a single- 
 boled tree is the exception. 
 
 Coco-nut trees are generally planted at irregular distances 
 between the rows of clove trees, but the reason for doing so 
 appears to be quite forgotten, the usual explanation being 
 that " it was the custom." 
 
 Coco-nut trees are usually planted here and there amongst 
 the clove trees in Amboyna and the Moluccas, it being 
 believed that the proximity of this tree is beneficial to the 
 clove. The French most probably adopted the custom in 
 Mauritius and Reunion, and it eventually found its way to 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 Diseases and enemies. — So far as I have been able to 
 ascertain — and I have made careful inquiries on this subject 
 — the clove tree is not subject to any fungoid disease. The 
 percentage of dead, dying, and unhealthy trees noticed by me 
 was very small, and the cause generally was either a damp 
 situation, or want of cultivation, and the presence of grasses, 
 especially " ilook."
 
 558 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA imkt il 
 
 Where labour is available (/. e. where there are enough 
 slaves), the shamba should be weededevery month, but the 
 average interval, I was told, is three months, and on the 
 Sultan's plantation at Chueni, judging from the weeds and 
 grasses upon it, it must have been even longer. These 
 irregular and heavy weedings are very harmful to the clove. 
 
 The clove tree suffers from attacks of two enemies — one, a 
 caterpillar, which attacks the foliage in the dry weather and 
 often denudes the tree of its leaves (the tree recovers as soon 
 as the rains set in) ; the other is the white ant, which 
 occasionally attacks the roots. No remedial measures appear 
 to be taken. 
 
 Time of bearing. — Clove trees begin to yield — 
 
 In good situations, five years from planting. 
 
 In inferior soil, six years to six and a half years from 
 planting. 
 
 Yield of trees. — The Sultan's head-overseer told me that 
 the general yield is 2 frasilas to three trees, and the average 
 yield may be stated at 500 frasilas to 400 trees, or 4 
 lbs. 6 oz. per tree. The usual estimate is 5 lbs. per tree, 
 but the clove tree is a most uncertain yielder, one year 
 giving an enormous crop and the next year nothing ; and 
 again, individual trees in favourable situations yield very 
 much above the average. The low average yielded by 
 Zanzibar estates is probably due to want of proper cultivation. 
 
 Colour of the buds. — The unexpanded buds on the trees 
 are at first a pinkish-yellow, becoming a deeper red as they 
 mature. Red is the colour desired in the dried clove, and 
 buds of this colour are more valued than those which are black. 
 
 Gathering. — The picking of the buds commences in August 
 and lasts for four months ; on an average each tree is picked 
 three times in a season, for the buds ripen unequally, on which 
 account it is necessary to go over the trees several times. 
 The stalks and buds are gathered at the same time, and 
 thrown on to grass mats spread on the ground ; the picking 
 of the higher branches is done by means of triangular bamboo 
 ladders. Whilst some of the slaves are thus occupied, others 
 pick the buds from the stalks, and they are then spread out 
 to dry in the sun, being taken in ever)- night.
 
 CHAP. VI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 559 
 
 Curing. — The cloves are dried on mats in the sun (contrary 
 to the practice in Penang and the Mokiccas), and the drying 
 is continued for six or seven days. 
 
 Green cloves dry down to about half their weight ; thus 
 I frasila green is equal to \ frasila dry. 
 
 Hiredlabour. — On plantations where slaves are not sufficient, 
 hired labourers (called "kibarua" from the ticket they 
 receive daily) are employed. Each gatherer keeps a sei^arate 
 basket, and in the evening, each man measures out the clove- 
 buds which he has picked during the day, and from which he 
 has to remove the stalks. 
 
 At the commencement of the season pice are given ; later 
 on, the pickers are paid in kind. 
 
 Five pice are paid for each " pishi " (about 6 lbs.) of green 
 cloves. 
 
 In favourable seasons the picker receives half of what he 
 gathers ; in short seasons only a quarter. 
 
 Clove steins. — The measurements and payments are for the 
 buds only, nothing being given for the stalks, which are the 
 property of the owner.^ 
 
 Disposal of the crop : Government duty. — Cloves are de- 
 spatched to Zanzibar in gunny bags. There is a duty, levied 
 by Government, of 25 per cent. ; this is paid in kind, and the 
 cloves heaped in bulk in the Government godowns. 
 
 Public auctions are now held by Government every fort- 
 night, to allow open competition, and especially to admit 
 European merchants. 
 
 Comparison between Zanzibar and Pemba cloves. — Zanzibar 
 cloves are very dry, differing much in this respect from those 
 produced in Pemba. Zanzibar cloves can be stored for some 
 time, but *' Pembas " are disposed of as early as possible, as 
 otherwise the loss is very great, as they generally arrive damp, 
 and there is much "shortage" when dried. In good dry 
 samples, the Pemba clove is smaller and blacker than others — 
 blacker from having contained much moisture. Zanzibar 
 
 1 At the time I was in Zanzibar, the value of a frasila of buds was 6 
 rupees. It will be seen therefore that the produce was worth to the 
 owner 11 pice per lb., plus the stalks, or 10 pice after paying the wages of 
 picking (5 pice per 6 lbs.).
 
 560 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 PART n 
 
 cloves are larger, and the red appearance of the dried buds 
 is unmistakable ; they are well known as " Zanzibar red-heads." 
 
 The difference between Zanzibar and Pemba cloves is well 
 recognized in Europe. Large shipments of both varieties are 
 made to Bombay, where they are very probably mixed. 
 
 Mode of sJiipment. — Cloves are generally exported in double 
 mat-bags (" makanda ") in preference to gunnies, though there 
 is more shortage — in fact, the difference is marked ; the mat- 
 bags apparently permit a greater absorption of damp. The 
 amount of shortage in the weight of cloves between Zanzibar 
 and Europe equals 8 per cent. 
 
 Clove stalks. — Large exports of clove stalks are also made 
 to both Bombay and New York. 
 
 Export.— The following were the exports of cloves during 
 the six years ending with 1895 — ■ 
 
 Years 
 
 Zanzibar Cloves 
 
 Pemba Cloves 
 
 Total 
 
 
 Frasilas 
 
 Frasilas 
 
 Frasilas 
 
 1890 
 
 124,929 
 
 384,933 
 
 509,862 
 
 1 891 
 
 69,388 
 
 324,252 
 
 393,640 
 
 1892 
 
 121,398 
 
 236,211 
 
 357,609 
 
 1893 
 
 108,090 
 
 259,367 
 
 367,457 
 
 1894 
 
 138,691 
 
 372,999 
 
 511,690 
 
 1895 
 
 146,397 
 
 391,460 
 
 537,460 
 
 ■1 
 
 I Frasila = 35 lbs. 
 
 " From this table it will be seen that the production of 
 cloves during the year ended December last is the largest of 
 the series, being 901,950 lbs. in advance of that of 1894. The 
 crop of the 1894-95 season was a better one than was antici- 
 pated, the second pickings making up for the deficiency of 
 the first. Prices during the first three-quarters of the year 
 remained fairly steady, the average for Zanzibar cloves being 
 2 dollars 62 cents, and for Pemba cloves 2 dollars 30 cents per 
 I frasila, but during the last three months of the year, at the 
 beginning of the new crop, there was a considerable fall, 
 which continued up to the end of the year, and which caused 
 the average for that period to be 2 dollars 10 cents for 
 Zanzibar, and i dollar y}, cents per i frasila for Pemba cloves.
 
 CHAP. VI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA ;6i 
 
 Rs. 
 
 A. 
 
 p. 
 
 ■•• 178,435 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 •- 357,788 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 7,114 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 486 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 Rupees 543,825 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 This tends to prove that the continued heavy crops have 
 caused a glut in the home markets, although shipments at 
 the lower price are still being made, especially to Bombay, 
 Marseilles, and Hamburg, which three ports absorbed most 
 of the consignments during the last half of the year, London 
 taking a comparatively small quantity." — Consul-General' s 
 Report on the Trade of Zanzibar for the year 1895. 
 
 The actual revenue derived by the Zanzibar Government 
 from this source in the year 1894 was — 
 
 Zanzibar cloves . . 
 Pemba cloves ... 
 Clove stems 
 Mother of cloves 
 
 I have pointed out that agriculture in Zanzibar and Pemba 
 is at present in a somewhat precarious position, depending as 
 it does on an uncertain labour supply, and on one article of 
 produce (admittedl}- not a necessity of life, and liable also 
 to destruction by a cyclone, as in 1872). Due consideration 
 must therefore be given to these facts : firstly, that the soil 
 and climate of Zanzibar and Pemba are eminently adapted to 
 the cultivation of the clove tree ; secondly, that the large 
 clove plantations on the former island consist chiefly of trees 
 planted since the cyclone of 1872, so that, for many years 
 to come, cloves must continue to be the principal and most 
 important export. It becomes, therefore, an essential question 
 whether the present very low prices ruling for this produce 
 cannot be improved ; and whether, by due precaution, the 
 possible danger of destruction by cyclones could not be 
 averted. There can be no two opinions as to the importance 
 of these questions. 
 
 To take the former question first, it is acknowledged that 
 the produce of Zanzibar and Pemba differs, to the advantage 
 of the former, the latter absorbing a considerable amount of 
 moisture during its transit to Zanzibar, in the unsuitable and 
 ill-protected native dhows in which the cloves are generall)' 
 brought across. It is, nevertheless, unfortunately the fact 
 
 o o
 
 562 ZANZII5AR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 that Zanzibar cloves, no less than those of Pemba, at present 
 occuj^y the lowest position in the London market. Adultera- 
 tion with stems may contribute towards this result, but the 
 low prices of the buds must be due to some other cause. 
 The \alue of cloves depends on their plumpness, brightness 
 of tint, and yield in essential oil. Now Zanzibar and Pemba 
 stand alone in the practice of drying the buds in direct 
 sunlight, that process causing the buds to shrivel, and evapor- 
 ating much more of their strength than when they are dried 
 in the shade. The methods used in other countries, particu- 
 larl)' in Penang and the Moluccas, totally differ from those in 
 force in Zanzibar. (For fuller particulars and information see 
 Appendix G.) I give here quotations from the London produce 
 markets report of sales in March and May 1896 — 
 
 March 1896. May 1896. 
 
 Penang. Dull to fine bright bold, Ptmang. Dull to fine bright bold, 
 
 Td. to \\d. id. to \\d. 
 
 Aviboyna. Dull to fine, ■^\d. to A,\d. Amboyna. Dull to fine, ■^\d. to i,\d. 
 Zan::ihaj- and Pcniha. Zn7izibar and Pemba. 
 
 Good and fine bright, i^d. to 2\d. Good and fine bright, z\d. to ^\d. 
 
 Common dull to fair, \\d. to i\d. Common dull to fair, \\d. to afV^. 
 
 Stems, fair, \d. Stems, fair, \d. 
 
 This then is the present unsatisfactory state of the 7.z.x\7J^2iX 
 clove market, and it deserves the serious attention of the 
 Government.^ Every endeavour should be made to discover 
 the cause. I think that both the method of curing and the 
 adulteration are at fault, for the climate and soil are undoubt- 
 edl)' most favourable to this cultivation. When these evils 
 
 ^ Since the above was written, I have observed with pleasure that the 
 Government are taking energetic steps to prevent adulteration ; 7'ide the 
 Consul-General's Report for 1895 — 
 
 " It is satisfactory to note that during the year 1895 there have been 
 three prosecutions and convictions under the proclamation of his 
 Highness the Sultan, and the regulations issued by her Majesty's 
 Agency and Consulate-General, for the adulteration of cloves. The cloves, 
 which were, in these instances, imported by British Indians from Pemba, 
 were found to be adulterated with salt, and were seized and publicly burned, 
 and this action has already had a deterrent effect on a practice which 
 was becoming far too common. '
 
 CHAP. VI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 563 
 
 arc remedied, a rise in the market value means an immediate 
 and important increase in the Government revenue. 
 
 Now, as to preventing destruction by cyclones, I would 
 recommend "shelter trees," emj^loyed so successfully in 
 Sumatra, where the clove plantations are protected by rows 
 of wind-resisting trees, such as Calaba {Calopliylluvi calnbd), 
 Ccrbera mangJias, and Casuarina littorca. " Wind-belts " of 
 these, planted round boundaries, plantations, and on ridges, 
 would prove a great protection ; I can bear testimony to 
 their advantages, and strongly recommend their adoption in 
 Zanzibar. There is another most useful tree, the Grcvillea 
 robusta (the silky oak of Queensland), which is very highly 
 thought of in India, as, apart from its wind-resisting power, 
 it is remarkable for greatly enriching the soil by the quantity 
 of leaves it sheds. It is hardy, vigorous, quick-growing, and 
 very easily propagated, but in Cej'lon it docs not thrive too 
 close to the sea.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 OTHER TRODUCTS OF ZANZIBAR 
 
 The Coco-nut and its Products — Betel-nuts and Betel Pepper — Mango 
 and other Fruit Trees — Alimentary Plants — Banana Fibre — Grains — 
 Ground-nuts — Chillies — Dyes — Domestic Animals in Zanzibar. 
 
 Like the clove, the coco-imt ailtivation suffered terribl}- from 
 the cyclone of 1872, and to such an extent, that whereas the 
 value of the exports of coco-nut and copra before the hurricane 
 amounted to nearly ^200,000 per annum, in 1895 't had 
 fallen to ^57,529 sterling, proving how terrible was the disaster 
 and how much leeway has yet to be made up. To summarize 
 the chief facts respecting the coco-nut and its industries : its 
 cultivation is very scattered except in a few regular planta- 
 tions, where the trees are planted on an average from 15 to 20 
 and 30 feet apart ; elsewhere they are grown too thickh- and 
 closely together. They bear in their eighth year, and the 
 nuts are picked about four times annually. Where over- 
 crowded or neglected the average yield is from 50 to icxD 
 nuts, that of ordinary trees is from 120 to 200, and in 
 favourable situations up to 300 nuts a year. When grown 
 among cloves the trees are lanky in appearance and yield 
 poorly. The average price of nuts in 1892 was from B20 to 
 $25 per 1000. 
 
 Copra is exported, but not to the extent it might be ; 
 greater development in this product ma}', however, be now 
 expected, as European firms are giving more attention to it. 
 The largest trade done at present is with France, practically 
 all tlie copra being shipped to Marseilles. 
 
 564
 
 CHAP. VIl 
 
 ZANZIHAR AND PEMIJA 56: 
 
 The following are the exports of copra for the years 1894 
 and 1895 — 
 
 1894. 108,321 packages. Value £s7y^~7- 
 
 1895. 1 1.738,496 lbs. Value ;{; 57, 5 29. 
 
 Coir. — Until quite recently no use was made of the husks. 
 They were thrown. away or burned as fuel, and the small 
 amount of coir that was made was manufactured by natives 
 from the Comoro Islands. At the time of my visit, an 
 English firm had just imported machinery for its manufacture. 
 This speaks well for the future development of the industry. 
 
 Toddy is simply sold for drinking and for making vinegar, 
 " su-siki." Toddy syrup, a species of sugar or syrup, is made 
 by boiling toddy in a pot for half-an-hour, and is sold at 
 2 pice a cup. 
 
 " Asali ya tembo" = syrup made from toddy. 
 
 " Asali ya mua " = the boiled juice of the sugar-cane. 
 
 Peinba coco-nut. — There is a dwarf variety, the Pemba coco- 
 nut, which, as its name implies, is a native of that island. It is 
 a handsome ornamental palm, easily distinguished by its small 
 size and marked yellow midribs ; the nuts are also much 
 smaller and of a dark yellow colour. This variety is esteemed 
 for its quicker yield, as it bears in five years instead of eight. 
 The fruit appears to be chiefly valued for drinking purposes, 
 the water in the immature nut being very sweet. The }icld 
 of fibre is very small. The trees are generally planted along 
 paths and near houses, or in small clumps, 20 to 26 feet apart, 
 and often closer. It is unnecessary for me to point out the 
 great advantages resulting from a more enlightened cultivation 
 of the coco-nut palm, for so many useful hand-books on the 
 subject are now procurable. The statement is made that 
 young coco-nut trees, both in Zanzibar and the mainland, are 
 peculiarly liable to the attacks of a large rhinoceros beetle : 
 this is nothing unusual, and need not cause apprehension, the 
 red and black beetles being only too well known as enemies 
 that coco-nut planters have to contend against.^ 
 
 ' " We have only two species of beetle that attack the coco-nut tree in 
 Ceylon. The 'kuruininiya,' a large black one, breeds in dung-heaps and 
 in accumulations of decaying vegetable matter. It cuts into the cabbage
 
 566 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 The new road which has just been constructed across the 
 centre of the island connectin<^ Zanzibar with Chuaka on the 
 cast coast should do much towards developin;^ the export of 
 agricultural produce, for it passes through the richest and 
 most cultivated portion of the island, and (as I pointed out in 
 my report of 1892) it enables the more distant shamba owners 
 to despatch their produce to the coast in wheeled vehicles 
 instead of on porters' heads. This road is due to the initiative 
 of Sir Lloyd Mathews, the first Minister of Zanzibar, and is 
 referred to very fully in the Government report issued 
 in 1895.1 
 
 The Bcicl-nnt palui {Arcca cateclui, L.) is grown only in 
 small clumps around houses and in closely-planted rows 
 along roadsides and avenues. The cultivation of this most 
 handsome palm, which begins to yield in its fifth year, could, 
 
 and feeds on the tender undeveloped leaves, the effects of which are cut 
 and ragged leaves in after Hfe. It does not breed in the tree, but merely 
 dines and departs, t'ew trees in a plantation entirely escape, and some 
 that are much to their taste are kept in a chronic state of disreputable 
 raggedness. The other is the red beetle, 'kandapauwa' (eating worm) of 
 the Sinhalese. The dangerous time with this foe is from the time the 
 stem shows above ground till it begins to flower. It has a strong frontal 
 horn, with which it can enlarge to its purpose any crack or wound on the 
 stem, but it cannot penetrate the ripe rind. The rapid extension of the 
 stem in a c[uick-growing tree often splits the base of a leaf ; and in the 
 crack so produced the young grub lives on the substance of the leaf till 
 strong enough to gnaw its way into the stem. Split leaves should there- 
 fore be carefully removed as soon as noticed ; but all whole ones should 
 be allowed to remain on the stem till they rot, the danger of removing 
 them being breaking the surface of the stem or exposing it before it is 
 sufficiently hardened. When the grub is detected in a tree, the safest 
 way of dealing with it is to root it out, cut it into chips, and collect and 
 destroy the insects in all their stages. Fortunately the whole colony 
 sticks to one tree, as long as it stands, and the whole family, sometimes 
 amounting to 1 50, can be disposed of at once. The grand precaution is 
 never to trim'the leaves within 3 feet of the stem : nine-tenths of the trees 
 destroyed by this insect on Ceylon plantations have been due to wounds 
 inflicted on the stems in trimming ofl"dcad lca\es. 
 
 " Note. — 18 feet is the length of the leaf of a mature thriving tree." 
 ( Tropical Aj^ricullutist, July 1 89 1 . ) 
 
 ' Africa, No. 5 (1895) Report on the Kevenuu and Administration of 
 Zanzibar in 1894.
 
 CHAP. VII ZANZIBAR AND FEMBA 567 
 
 I think, be largely extended. It grows well in sandy soil, and 
 tiicre are in various parts of the island many localities well 
 adapted to its cultivation, as for instance between Chueni and 
 Kokotoni and the sandy plains to the east of Zanzibar town. 
 Its produce not only supplies a large local demand, but the 
 nuts are also exported, and the Customs Revenue from this 
 source alone in 1894 amounted to Rs. 10,240. 
 
 The Betel-vine {Piper betel, L.), the leaves of which are 
 chewed in conjunction with the betel- nut, is usually found 
 in most native villages carefully fenced in and shaded. 
 
 One is especially struck in Zanzibar, as I have more than 
 once mentioned, with the appearance of the large and mag- 
 nificent Mango trees. This tree {Mangifera indica, L.) is 
 evidently a favourite with both the Arab and Swahili culti- 
 vator. Accordingly it forms a prominent object among the 
 various trees and products cultivated, and is found everywhere ; 
 every soil appears to suit it, and its robust and luxuriant 
 appearance is most marked. The mango was introduced in 
 olden times by Arabs, and there are in the islands trees of 
 great age and many varieties. More recently. Sir John Kirk 
 states, new kinds have been introduced from Reunion and 
 Bombay, but there are few better than those already grown in 
 Zanzibar. The trees bear largely, and some of the finer 
 varieties of fruit are noted for their delicacy of flavour. The 
 mango bears fruit twice in the year, after the south-west 
 monsoon rains in July and August, and after the north-east 
 monsoon rains in January and February. The Jack or Jacca 
 {Artocarpns integrifolia) is another favourite tree, but not so 
 extensively grown as the mango. At present both these 
 trees appear to be cultivated for their fruit alone. Their 
 timber (so valuable for furniture-making purposes, and so 
 much utilized in India) is little if at all used. Neither is any 
 advantage taken of the facilities for shade cultivation beneath 
 them, for which the island appears well adapted, with such a 
 large number of mature trees. 
 
 Concerning 7iativc and foreign frnit trees any one can 
 observe that wherever the slightest attempt at care or cultiva- 
 tion is made fruit trees respond readily — -and amongst these 
 the Citrus family takes the first place ; all the species, viz. the
 
 568 ZANZ115AK AND I'EMIJA i-art i 
 
 Orange, Lemon, Citron, Lime, Sweet Lime, and Shaddock, are 
 
 to be found and grow well. The Orange, in its several 
 varieties, is the most cultivated ; in the larger estates it is 
 generally planted in rows, and in the smaller shambas 
 scattered amongst other trees. The orange trees are of 
 the very best kind, and include the bitter and sweet 
 varieties. 
 
 The tree bears only once in the year, but the annual crop 
 of fruit must be very large. 
 
 I understand it was suggested at the period of my visit to 
 open a trade in this fruit with India, by shipping the surplus 
 produce to Bombay. My own experience as regards Southern 
 India hardly favours the proposal, but every effort tending to 
 develop the trade of Zanzibar should certainly be encouraged. 
 Bombay and the more northern coasts of India offer a large 
 field for experiment, and due consideration is to be given to 
 the fact that the oranges ripen at different times in the two 
 countries. If a successful trade were developed, Aden also 
 would offer certain possibilities, with its European garrison 
 and numerous passenger steamers, inward and outward bound, 
 calling at that port. 
 
 Coffea arabica is cultivated — or more properly exists on 
 the island, it being found in one or two shambas in the 
 Mwera district, but from a planter's point of view, much 
 neglected, being neither topped nor pruned. Under shade it 
 might certainly be cultivated, but never more than to supply 
 local demand. A few trees of Liberian coffee {Coffea libcricti) 
 were planted by Sir John Kirk in his garden at Mbweni, close 
 to Zanzibar. The trees when seen by me Were attacked by 
 Hcvieleia vasiatrix, the leaf disease plague of India and 
 Ceylon, but were otherwise healthy though much neglected. 
 I would not recommend attempting this culti\ation on the 
 island, as I consider that more remunerative returns can be 
 obtained from more suitable products. 
 
 T/ic ALulberry is very plentiful and often used to mark 
 boundaries between estates ; the species is the small Indian 
 black variety. 
 
 Another minor product is the Silk-colto)i tree {Eriodendroii 
 anfractuosuiii), known locally as " msufi," generally grown in
 
 { iiAi'. VII ZANZIHAR AND I'EMliA 569 
 
 the neit^hboLirhood of houses, and its cotton used as a stuffing 
 for pillows. 1 do not know whether a trade in " kapok " (as 
 the cotton is named) could be fostered in Zanzibar. In 
 Ceylon, Java, and Sumatra, whence it is exported, it does not 
 pay to grow the tree as a separate product, but it is simply 
 scattered about the various plantations and utilized for 
 shade and for boundaries. The principal demand comes 
 from Australia, where the cotton is used in the manufacture 
 of pillows and cushions ; Holland and Fiji also import it in a 
 lesser degree. 
 
 Cotton, although a most suitable product for the mainland, 
 is not so for the islands, where rains often completely spoil 
 the crop. 
 
 ^\\Q Papaio tree {Car ica papaya, L.) generally finds a [)lace 
 amongst cultivated products, the fruit, both green and ripe, 
 being much esteemed as an article of diet. It grows every- 
 where, any soil appearing to suit it. Reference is here made 
 to it on account of its probable future importance, as from 
 the milky juice of the fruit a new peptonizing agent has 
 been obtained called " papain." 
 
 " The experiments of careful observers have shown that 
 ' papin ' or ' papain ' in concentrated solution, will dissolve 
 more meat fibre or coagulated albumen than will pepsinc in 
 the same time." ^ 
 
 Aiii)ic)itary Plants: The sugar-cane. — The soil of Zanzibar 
 is well adapted for the growth of the sugar-cane, of which 
 there are many varieties. The industry flourished under 
 Seyyid Barghash, the great Sultan of Zanzibar, and Mr. Fraser 
 cultivated the cane with profit on his Kokotoni plantation, 
 sugar to the value of ^^3000 being shipped in 1 864. I attribute 
 the discontinuance of its cultivation firstly to want of labour, 
 secondly to the cheaper beet, and particularly palm sugars, 
 which are slowl)' but surely ousting the cane sugars out of the 
 markets. 
 
 Sir John Kirk thinks it is owing to the soil and climate, 
 which render it liable to attacks by the beetle HeteronycJius 
 (it rat /IS, but 1 am inclined to think that it was the unsuit- 
 
 ' 7'/vp/c(tt . I i^r/ciitt//r/st, October 1891.
 
 570 ZANZIliAK AND I'EMIJA part ii 
 
 able variety of cane that was in fault, as exemplified in 
 Jamaica.' 
 
 The low-lyin^f grounds offer every facility for the extension 
 of this cultivation. Certainly the present position of sugar- 
 cane producing countries is not sufficiently satisfactory to 
 encourage one to speak very hopefully of the prospects of a 
 revival of this industry in the island ; but taking into con- 
 sideration the exceptional geographical position of Zanzibar, I 
 am led to believe that a local trade might be successfully 
 developed with the African mainland. The result of the 
 Commission which has lately inquired into the conditions of 
 the industry in the West Indian colonies may have some 
 influence on its future prospects in Zanzibar. 
 
 Bananas, one of the most important of the secondary food 
 products, are grown everywhere, either in rows between the 
 coco-nuts and other trees, or as a special crop, and are always 
 found around houses. The numerous plantations of this 
 useful plant add much to the beauty of the landscape of 
 Zanzibar. It grows and yields most luxuriantly ; some 
 clumps that I saw in the northern portion of the island were 
 from 1 8 to 20 feet in height, the circumference of the stems 
 being 3^ to 4 feet one foot above the ground. It thrives best 
 in warm, moist, clayey soil and in an atmosphere strongly 
 impregnated with salt, in both of which respects Zanzibar well 
 meets its requirements. I wish to draw attention to the 
 
 1 Mr. D. Morris, Assistant Director Royal Kew Gardens, speaking of 
 the Jamaica Sugar Industry says : "As one of the most important elements 
 in the improvement of the sugar industry of Jamaica, it is a matter of 
 regret that more attention is not given to the selection of certain varieties 
 of canes, and the special adaptability of such canes to certain conditions 
 of soil, aspect, rain-fall, and climate. Again, in the selection of cane 
 plants it is a question whether the practice which obtains in Jamaica and 
 some of the older sugar-growing countries, of taking cane tops for the 
 season's planting from thrown up or exhausted fields, does not seriously 
 affect the yield and productiveness of estates in this island. This practice, 
 adopted probal)ly in the first instance from motives of economy, is now 
 continued . . . l)ut it is very probable that the continued planting of the 
 immature portion of the sugar-cane in this manner has been in a great 
 measure the cause of its deterioration, and that it has contributed a much 
 larger share than is supposed towards rendering sugar estates less 
 productixe than otherwise thev might be."
 
 CHAP. VII ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 571 
 
 possibilities of its extended cultivation in connection with the 
 rising demand for Banana meal ?^\\(\ fibre. In the manufacture 
 of the meal I am afraid Zanzibar would have to face the keen 
 competition of the West Indian Islands, so much more advan- 
 tageously situated. Fifteen pounds of fruit will \-icld 3 lbs. of 
 prepared flour, and a sample of flour from the Moko plantain 
 realized 6d. per lb. in London. 
 
 Fibre. — The question (jf fibre is more promising. The Red 
 Banana yields the best, and 700 plants to the acre would give 
 an annual yield of over half a ton of fibre. A sample of the 
 red banana fibre from Trinidad was valued in 1886 by Messrs. 
 Ide and Christie at ^25 per ton. Too close planting should be 
 avoided, 1 2 feet each way between the plants being found to 
 give the best results. 
 
 Cassava is the chief ground cultivation and forms the 
 principal article of food. The two varieties — the bitter {Mani/wt 
 utilissinui) and the sweet {Mani/iot aipi) — are cultivated, the 
 method employed being extremely simple. Cuttings are 
 merely placed in the newly-holed field or bed at irregular 
 distances, no drills or trenches being made, and six months is 
 the average time from the planting till the digging up of the 
 roots. Newly-planted fields are generally kept very clean, but 
 when once the plants are established, less care is taken. No 
 attempts at the manufacture and export of tapioca (the 
 farinaceous matter of the roots, separated and converted into 
 a kind of starch) have ever been made. 
 
 Arrozvroot. — A variety of this {Tacca pinnatifida) is to be 
 found in most native gardens, and is called locally "uwanga"; 
 the roots are washed in repeated waters and finally sun-dried. 
 This preparation mixed with sugar forms a favourite dish of 
 the Arabs. I see no reason why arrowroot should not be 
 extensively cultivated and form an article of export, as the 
 cultivation is easy and immediate returns are obtained. The 
 plants are propagated by parting the roots, and a light loamy 
 soil is the most favourable for their growth. 
 
 Grains. — As to r/V^, which, notwithstanding all theadvantages 
 the island possesses for its cultivation, is actually imported, a 
 great deal more might be grown than is at present the case. 
 Both wet and dr\- cultivation are to be seen, but a systematic
 
 572 ZANZlllAR AND I'EMHA part 1 1 
 
 irrigation as practised in India and Ceylon is not known, 
 advantage being merely taken of the flooded banks of rivers 
 and the swampy bottoms of low valleys which are so frequently 
 met with in the island. Maize {Zea inais) does not appear to 
 be extensively cultivated, and where grown is generally com- 
 bined with dry rice. Of the other grains, particularly the Millets, 
 although formerly much land was under Soi'ghuin vulgarc, 
 very little is cultivated at present, and now grain is chiefly 
 imported from the mainland. 
 
 Of the Ground-nuts two varieties are found, known locally as 
 " Mjugu nyassa " and " Mjugu mawe." The first {Aj'ac/iis 
 Jiypogcea) yields the ground-nut oil of commerce, the second is 
 the Banibarra ground-nut ( Voandzeia subterraned), a smaller 
 one used only for food. Hitherto the exports have been 
 trifling, amounting only to Rs, 6284 in 1894. 
 
 Its cultivation is comparatively small, and is more par- 
 ticularly confined to the country lying between Dunga and 
 the capital. This is a most profitable crop, the }Teld being 
 very large, often averaging lOO bushels an acre, and the nuts 
 containing up to 50 per cent, of oil. 
 
 Ground-nuts are becoming an important and valuable 
 article of commerce, for which an increased demand has sprung 
 up, more especially at Marseilles. They form one of the 
 principal exports of the eastern districts of the Madras 
 Presidency, and there is no reason whatever why their cultiva- 
 tion in Zanzibar should not be extended. One reason given for 
 the small amount cultivated is that the crop is a very exhaust- 
 ing one, but certainly not more so than cassava, and this objec- 
 tion apparently does not carry great weight with the native 
 cultivators in Southern India. It would certainly be a great 
 step in advance if the profits derived from the exports of 
 this product were to induce landowners to pay greater 
 attention and care to the up-keep of their fields. 
 
 Another oil plant is Sim-sim, or " Gingelh'." It does not 
 appear to be cultivated to the same extent as on the main- 
 land ; oil-plant cultivation appears to take a secondary place 
 in Zanzibar. 
 
 Pepper. — The Pep|)er \ine is not cultixatcd. The species 
 growing (jn the island arc varieties of ihc shrubb)- Cdpsieuni,
 
 CHAP. VII ZANZIBAR AXD PEMHA 573 
 
 chiefly C. nniuium, C. frutescens, and C. fastigiatutn, the pul- 
 verized fruit pods yielding the cayenne pepper of commerce. 
 These are to be found in a small degree in every shamba, but 
 the principal source from which the annual exports are derived 
 is the eastern side of Zanzibar, where the cultivation is chiefly 
 in the hands of the Wahadinu people. 
 
 My visit to this part of the island was too brief to enable 
 me to speak with an}- certaint}- as to the actual position and 
 prospects of this spice, but judging from the observations I 
 was able to make, the cultivation struck me as of a very 
 scattered nature, consisting generally of small isolated patches 
 from half to one or two acres in extent combined with tobacco, 
 tomato, pumpkins, etc. 
 
 Now as the chilli is, as yet, the only product of an)- value 
 grown in this less favoured portion of the island, I consider 
 that a little fostering care might be productive of much 
 advantage. It is a cultivation easily carried on, requiring no 
 special trouble or skill, and the returns are certain and profit- 
 able. At present the people are so blind to their own 
 interests as to wilfull}- depreciate its value, and to disguise 
 possible shortage by theft on the way down to Zanzibar, 
 owners actualh" damp the chillies before despatching them^ 
 so that it is often necessary on their reaching the Govern- 
 ment Custom godowns to dry them as quickly as possible 
 as the only chance of saving them. I examined some bags 
 that had just arrived, and the heat was so great that the)- 
 felt quite hot to the hand when inserted,^ 
 
 ^ " The production of chillies has declined from 17,735 frasilas in 1894 
 to 16,336 frasilas in 1895, a decrease of 46,935 lbs., the smaller demand for 
 this article being probably due to its inferior quality owing to careless 
 picking and drying. The plant receives but little attention from the 
 native, who objects to the slight personal discomfort which he experiences 
 in handling it, the result being that it is allowed to grow almost wild in 
 the eastern and more uncultivated portions of the island, and that only a 
 comparatively small proportion of the pods are picked, and if picked they 
 are but badly dried. If more care was taken with the cultivation and pre- 
 paration of this useful commodity the produce of Zanzibar would in all 
 probability bear favourable comparison with that of other countries. The 
 average price during 1895 was 2 dollars 33 cents per i frasila of 35 lbs. 
 The duty is 10 per cent." (Consul-Generars Report for 1895.)
 
 574 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 The exports of chillies during 1894-95 were as follows : — 
 
 1894. 5081 packages. Value ^6826, 
 
 1895. 545,207 lbs. Value i;4795. 
 
 DVES. — Speaking oi Ijidigo, Sir John Kirk remarks "that it 
 is the only vegetable dye that has been manufactured for 
 export in the islands ; the industry has been abandoned for 
 nearly forty years, and the tanks have gone to ruin, but the 
 plant grows wild everywhere." 
 
 Arnotto {Bixa orellana, L.). — This tree — or rather plant, 
 for it rarely exceeds a growth of 8 to 10 feet — is fairly common 
 in most native gardens ; the waxy substance or pulp yields 
 the arnotto of commerce, at one time employed in the dyeing 
 of silk, but now chiefly used in cheese and butter colouring. 
 The trade is so limited that I do not see any advantage from 
 it for Zanzibar. 
 
 Logivood {H(2matoxylon canipecJiiamini), a new product, 
 appears to have adapted itself wonderfully well to the island. 
 The great length of time, ten years, before any commercial 
 use can be made of the" tree is, however, its one great drawback. 
 The OrcJidla Weed {Roccella thictoria and R. tricifonnis), 
 which yields a purple dye, grows in Zanzibar but is more a 
 product of the mainland, though Zanzibar is at present the 
 chief port of shipment. 
 
 The Henna plant {Laivsonia inennis, L.), yielding the well- 
 known orange-red dye so favoured by Orientals, is another 
 naturalized plant. 
 
 Turmeric {Curcmna longci) is grown, but only as a spice. 
 As regards domestic animals, a question closely connected 
 with cultivation, the scarcity of cattle in the island was very 
 noticeable, the few cows being kept solely for milking pur- 
 poses ; bullocks I saw only in the town, dragging Government 
 carts. Since my visit, how^ever, a large number of bullocks, 
 cows, etc. have been imported. Madagascar is not far away 
 and produces a good breed of cattle. I may remark here on 
 the slight attention that is paid to manure. Even in the 
 absence of the most fertilizing kind, viz. cattle manure, much 
 might be done by the people in burying all weeds and rubbish 
 in shallow trenches between the coco-nut trees, and utilizing
 
 CHAP. MI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 575 
 
 ashes, and especially sea-weed, so easily obtained. The 
 benefits of better cultivation of all products need not be 
 enlarged upon. The island possesses excellent nourishing 
 grasses, and large herds of goats are common, goat's milk 
 being largely consumed. Donkej-s are much used for ridin<T 
 but \-er\- little for transport.
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 NEW PRODUCTS SUITABLE FOR CULTIVATION IN ZANZIBAR 
 Fibres — Cacao — Nutmegs — Cinnamon — Pimento — Pepper \'ine— Ginger. 
 
 In discussing the new products suitable for cultivation in 
 Zanzibar, the marked similarity between it and the more im- 
 portant West Indian islands — notably Trinidad and Jamaica 
 — in respect of soil, temperature, and rain-fall (to which I have 
 already drawn attention), is an important and suggestive 
 fact ; for with this similarity of soil and climate it naturally 
 follows that the cultivation of the principal tropical products 
 can, with certainty of success, be introduced into the former 
 country ; and it will be seen that the island contains great 
 possibilities, only requiring development for their realization. 
 
 I propose merely to draw attention to the capabilities of 
 Zanzibar, and to point out the manner in which, to the best of 
 my judgment, they can be most successfully developed. 
 
 Amongst the more important of the products, the intro- 
 duction of which into Zanzibar should prove remunerative, I 
 would specially call attention to the following — 
 
 Fibres^ Cacao, the Nutmeg, Ciimamon, Pitiicnto, the Pepper 
 Vine, and Ginger. 
 
 I. The cultivation of FIBRES forms an important question 
 for Zanzibar. The subject deserves detailed consideration, and 
 I accordingly gave the matter particular attention. I was 
 much struck by the results obtained in the Bahamas by the 
 development of the Sisal hemp industr}-, and think that like 
 results might be achieved in Zanzibar. The Sisal hemp 
 {Agave rigida) was introduced into the Bahamas more than 
 half a ccntur)- ago, was neglected, and became a weed ; it was 
 
 576
 
 CHAP. viH ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 577 
 
 reserved to Sir Ambrose Shea, Governor in 1887-8, to give 
 the first impetus to this industry in those islands, with the 
 result that, in 1891 4000 acres were under cultivation, in 
 1893, 8000 acres, increasing in 1895 to over 25,000 acres. 
 
 The export of fibre in 1892 reached 150 to 200 tons, and by 
 1900 it is expected to reach large dimensions. On comparing 
 the soils of the Bahamas and the Yucatan Province of Mexico, 
 which is the original home of the Sisal hemp, with those of 
 Zanzibar, one sees a marked similarity. In the parts of 
 Yucatan where it is grown the soil \s of a gravelly, stony, and 
 in some places of a 7'ocky nature, the plant thriving best in 
 comparatively arid districts, a feio feet above the sea level ; rich 
 and moist soil is unsuitable, for though the plant grows well, 
 the quantity and quality of the fibre is then much poorer. 
 In the Bahamas (which have proved a congenial home to 
 this product) one finds that the majority of the islands have 
 next to no soil, four-fifths of the surface being bare coral rock, 
 with pockets of soil varying from a fezv inches to a feiu feet 
 in depth, and in this unpromising soil a flourishing industry 
 has been founded and developed, bidding fair to revolutionize 
 the financial position of the islands. Zanzibar, like the 
 Bahamas, has a large unfertile area, also consisting of bare 
 coral rock sparsely covered with soil, and what has been 
 accomplished in the Bahamas can be done in Zanzibar. It 
 is true that prices are no longer what they were,^ the market 
 value of this fibre having fallen from £^6 \Os. od. a ton to 
 roughly ^14 os. od. (the price in 1895) J but if so, the cost of 
 production is also much less, it being possible with the 
 modern machinery in use to cut and cart the leaves, clean, 
 bale, and ship the fibre at a cost of about id. per lb. in the 
 Bahamas, the corresponding cost for Manilla and Yucatan 
 being respectively 2d. and ild. per lb. 
 
 In the Bahamas returns are expected between the third and 
 fourth year after planting, whilst — as regards yield — from an 
 acre of 600 plants the lowest estimate is half a ton of fibre. 
 
 For fuller information I refer the reader to Appendix E."^ 
 
 * See Mr. Christie's interesting letter in Appendix B. 
 ■^ The following articles have appeared in the Kdu Bulletin on Sisal 
 Hemp and Allied Fibres from species of Agave : — 1887, March, p. 3, 
 
 P P
 
 578 ZANZIBAR AND PEMDA part ii 
 
 Pineapples {Ananas saiiva), though actually growing wild 
 on the island, are not at present utilized in any way, and may 
 really be described as a new product, so that they are in- 
 cluded under that heading. The wild growth of pineapples 
 and aloes suggests the practicability of developing an import- 
 ant trade in the manufacture of fibre from them, for a 
 very large area of the territory of the British Protectorate on 
 the mainland is known to be rich in fibre-producing plants, 
 and there is, in my opinion, the nucleus of an extensive trade 
 in these materials.^ The manufacture of pineapple fibre is 
 practically an untried industry, though the value of the fibre 
 is admitted, the small quantity now produced coming princi- 
 pally from China. I believe that Professor Edison has directed 
 his attention to the matter of decorticating the fibre by means 
 of a solution of crude petroleum. 
 
 2. The CACAO TREE {Thcobronia, L.) is well adapted for 
 cultivation in the island. In Trinidad the annual export 
 averages over 20,000,000 lbs., and I here quote an interesting 
 passage from Mr. Hart's book on cacao cultivation in that 
 island. The italics are my own : — 
 
 " In my experience humidity is a much more important 
 feature in plant growth than temperature alone, and no plant 
 
 Sisal hemp (yi^<^z/^ rigida., var. sisalana) \ 1887, December, p. 5, Mexican 
 fibre or Istle {Agave heieracaniha) ; 1889, March, p. 57, Bahamas hemp 
 {Agave rigida^ var. sisahma) ; 1889, October, p. 254, Bahamas hemp 
 {Agave rigida, var. sisalafia) ; 1890, March, p. 50, Bombay aloe fibre 
 {Agave vivipard) \ 1890, July, p. 158, Bahamas hemp; 1890, October, 
 p. 220, Mexican fibre or Istle {Agave hctcracantlui) ; 1890, December, 
 p. 273, Fibre production in the Caicos ; 1891, May and June, p. 133, 
 Keratto fibre {Agave Morrisit) ; 1891, July, p. 175, Bahamas hemp ; 
 February, 1892, Sisal hemp. 
 
 1 A sample of pineapple fibre of excellent quality and extraordinary' 
 length (6 feet), grown at Malacca, was brought to this country by Mr. 
 Derry in 1893. It was stated, in the Ke'W Bulletin of 1893 (p. 368), that 
 one manufacturer was hopeful of using 1000 tons a year or more of this 
 fibre at the price of ^30 per ton, delivered in London. " Pineapple hemp " 
 is a regular article of export from Formosa to Swatow, where it is made 
 into fine "grass cloth," esteemed for its coolness for summer wear.— Mr. 
 D. Morris, Assistant Director of Royal Gardens, Kew, on " Commercial 
 Fibres," 1895.
 
 CH.vr. VIII 
 
 ZVNZIDAR AND PEMBA 
 
 579 
 
 suffers more than cocoa at periods when the air is deficient in 
 moisture. Even in the driest weather in Trinidad the hygro- 
 meter shows that during the later portion of the night and 
 early morning the moisture in the air closely approaches to 
 saturation, and it is only the readings of the periods between 
 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. which reduce the record to the average of 
 seventy-eight. Countries in which the annual rain-fall is greater 
 than in Trinidad may not possess the same humidity, and there- 
 fore are not so suitable for the cultivation of our plant, and 
 countries ivJiich, on tJic other hand, exhibit a smaller annual 
 rain-fall, may be more suitable for cocoa cultivation oiving to the 
 presence of the requisite amount of humidity ; for in no country is 
 the humidity fully determined by or coincident luith the rainfall, 
 as it is often influenced by many other outside conditions." 
 
 As the subject is an important one, I also annex a table of 
 comparisons of temperature, humidity, and rain-fall between 
 Zanzibar, Trinidad, and Colombo — Ceylon cacao at present 
 realizing the highest prices in the London market. 
 
 TABLE OF COMPARISONS 
 
 Country 
 
 Temp 
 
 Mean 
 Maximum 
 
 irature 
 
 Mean 
 Minimum 
 
 Temperature 
 Mean 
 
 
 80-3 
 78-6 
 81-2 
 
 Humidity 
 
 80-3 
 790 
 
 Rain-fall 
 
 Years of 
 Observation 
 
 Zanzibar 
 Trinidad 
 Colombo 
 
 837 
 
 86-8 
 
 76-4 
 69-4 
 
 In. 
 
 61 '01 
 
 71-55 
 8774 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 14—15 
 
 N.B. — Of Colombo I am only able to quote the mean temperature and 
 rain -fall. 
 
 As to soil, " the very best land that can be got should be 
 secured for cocoa ; the plant is a deep feeder, and to thrive well 
 must have a good subsoil ; dark friable chocolate soil of great 
 depth is the best, but such is comparatively rare. Light soil, 
 with a good deep subsoil, is to be preferred to one with a rich 
 surface soil, but hard, impenetrable subsoil. Very steep land
 
 580 /ZANZIBAR AND PEMHA Part li 
 
 is to be avoided, but moderately steep suits very well ; rich 
 Hals are the best." ^ 
 
 SliadiiiL^' for the first four or five years is necessary, and 
 for this purpose there are many suitable trees, for although 
 heavy shading- is not required when once the plant is well 
 established, still light flickering shade is very beneficial ; and 
 amongst other shading trees may be mentioned the Grcvillea 
 robnsla, the tree known in Trinidad as " madre de cacao"; 
 Ficus glome rata ; and the Albissia stipulata (used for shading 
 tea in Assam). But for first shading nothing can equal 
 bananas. " The banana used for shade," says Mr. Hart, " is 
 usually planted intermediately between permanent rows of 
 cocoa. If cocoa is at 15 feet, then banana yl feet, and 
 so on." 
 
 Mr, D. Morris, Assistant Director at Kew, in speaking of 
 cacao cultivation in Jamaica, says : — " Some years ago we 
 thought the chocolate industry had almost died out in Jamaica. 
 It had been so neglected that, except in some few places, no 
 cocoa trees were left. Then the endeavour was made to 
 revive the industry. There is not the slightest difficulty in 
 establishing a cocoa estate ; you already have your banana 
 shading ; all that is left to do is to raise the plants and 
 put them under the shade of the bananas. The cocoa trees 
 only require to be carefully planted and pruned, all the 
 shoots removed, and the trees encouraged to send out their 
 bearing branches so that the pods borne on the stem of the 
 plant may have plenty of space, light, and air." 
 
 The above applies with equal force to Zanzibar ; here also 
 bananas are jjlentiful, and the fertile areas, extending espe- 
 cially through the centre of the island, are, in my opinion, 
 excellently adapted for the cultivation of this valuable tree. 
 The spaces between rows of clove trees might also be planted 
 with cacao, and once its adaptability had been conclusively 
 proved, the clove trees might be cut down and the area of 
 their cultivation more equalized with that of other products 
 less precarious in value, as well as less exacting in respect of 
 labour and attention. 
 
 Cacao seeds soon lose their vitality, and it would be 
 ' Cocoa CiiltriUition in Ceylon^ by W. Jardine.
 
 CHAP. VIII ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 necessary to introduce the cultivation either by means of 
 young plants brought over in Wardian cases, or else, as 
 originally suggested by me to the Directors of the Imijcrial 
 British East Africa Compan}', the pods might be carried 
 from Ceylon as far as possible and then broken, the seeds being 
 then placed to germinate amongst refuse coir, and on arrival 
 immediately planted out. The seeds and plants should be 
 procured from Ce}-lon on account of its proximity and the 
 higher prices it commands. 
 
 3. The NUTMEG TREE (^Myvistica moschata) is another 
 product which should prove a valuable accession, the soil of 
 the island being also suitable for its cultivation. The com- 
 paratively long interval that must elapse before returns can be 
 expected — seven to nine years — must always tend to restrict 
 its cultivation, and maintain the present high prices. 
 
 " A strong, rich, and rather moist loam is the most favourable 
 to nutmegs, as when planted on a sandy soil the trees are 
 not nearly so productive." ^ In a report on the cultivation 
 of spices in Bencoolen, Sumatra, it is said that " the soil 
 throughout the plantations generally is a red mould, with 
 stony fragments or pebbles frequently intermixed with it, 
 the surface of it in the forest alluvial and low lands being 
 of a chocolate colour varying in depth from 3 inches to 10 
 and 12 inches." 
 
 4. The CINNAMON TREE {Cimiavioimiin r^cylanicum) is well 
 suited for cultivation in the sandy soil which is a frequent 
 characteristic of Zanzibar Island, though present prices are 
 not encouraging : — 
 
 ■' The qualit}- of the soil is a most important feature in the 
 culti\'ation of cinnamon : a dr}', sandy soil, which would be 
 inimical to the successful growth of most trees, being an 
 essential condition of success in this case. Not only is the 
 general growth of the tree beneficially influenced b}- a silicious 
 soil, but the quality and earl}- maturity of the bark produced 
 under these conditions is superior to that of trees grown in 
 hard, stiff, or wet soil. Grown under favourable conditions, 
 the trees can be made to yield their first product in five }'ears, 
 but in wet or heavy soils, or in shaded situations, not only are 
 ^ Porter's Tropical Agriculturist.
 
 5S2 ZANZIBAR AND TEMBA part 11 
 
 the trees longer in maturing, but the quality of the bark is 
 never so good." ^ 
 
 5. Pimento {Pimenta officinalis) is another minor product 
 well adapted for cultivation in Zanzibar, as it groMs well on 
 all soils suitable to the clove tree ; it is a native of the West 
 Indies, and particularly plentiful in Jamaica, where the soil 
 is of a stiff red or brown clay, very similar to that of 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 It was long supposed that the pimento tree could not be 
 established successfully outside its native habitat, but later 
 experience has disproved this. It is found in Ceylon, where 
 in recent years some attention has been paid to its cultivation. 
 It has also been introduced into Queensland, and there is a 
 tree now growing in Mbweni shamba in Zanzibar, probably 
 introduced by Sir John Kirk, from the seeds of which one could 
 propagate it, for they are difficult to import and of a very 
 perishable nature. 
 
 Owing to the large annual export of " Pimento walking- 
 sticks," which are supplied by cutting down young shoots, the 
 yield and export of the " allspice berries "' from many parts of 
 the world is greatly reduced, so the cultivation of pimento 
 merits all the more careful attention in new localities. 
 
 6. Pepper {Piper nigruni) I think would do well in 
 Zanzibar, the onl}' doubt being the question of rain-fall. The 
 Pepper Vine, though hardy and capable of growing in most 
 soils, requires above all a heavy and evenly distributed rain-fall 
 — still, taking into consideration the suitability of soil and the 
 excellent shade facilities afforded by the numerous mango 
 and jack trees abounding everywhere, I consider the experi- 
 ment is well worth attempting, and if successful would add a 
 most valuable product to the other resources of Zanzibar. 
 
 Until proved successful I would advise trying the method 
 practised by small cultivators in Malabar. 
 
 " A red gravelly soil capable of retaining moisture with a 
 goodly number of mango and jack trees growing on it is 
 jDreferred. The mango tree is reckoned tlie best for the 
 ])urpose. A mango tree ought to be at least twenty years 
 
 ' Cnltural Industries for Qtiecfisland, "Cinnamon Cultivation.' \. M. 
 and J. Ferguson.
 
 CHAP. VIII ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 old before any pepper vines are put upon it ; for it is believed 
 that a younger tree will produce less fruit when there is vine 
 upon it than it otherwise would do. At the commencement 
 of the rainy season, which is the south-west monsoon in 
 Malabar, the soil round the tree is dug, and a small bank, at 
 a cubit distance from the root, is formed to confine water. 
 Then from eight to twelve shoots of the vine, according to 
 the size of the tree, are laid down within the bank with three 
 inches of the vine slanting up against the tree. The shoots 
 are about a cubit long. They are then covered with fine 
 mould and earth. As the vines grow they must be tied up to 
 the tree. In the hot season they require watering. At the 
 commencement of the rainy season, leaves, ashes, dung, etc. 
 must be put near their roots and fresh earth thrown up. The 
 pepper vine begins to bear at five years of age. In four }-ears 
 more it is in full bearing. An ordinary tree will produce 
 20 lbs. of pepper and a good one 30 lbs." ^ 
 
 7. Ginger {^Zingiber officinalis) is a useful spice, the culti- 
 vation of which could also with advantage be introduced into 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 The chief commercial varieties are obtained from the East 
 and West Indies (Jamaica), and the West Coast of Africa 
 (Sierra Leone), the scraped ginger being the most valuable. 
 
 " The plant is cultivated with little trouble in tropical 
 regions, ver}- much in the same manner as potatoes are 
 propagated in England. After the ground has been well 
 clean.sed and trenched the planting commences in March and 
 April. Holes are made, about 4 inches deep and 6 inches 
 asunder, into each of which a small piece of the root is put 
 and then covered over with earth. In a few months the 
 whole ground will be overrun with plant. The stalks begin to 
 wither in the January or February following, and then the 
 roots are in a fit state to be dug up. A sandy soil, and land 
 not having been previously cultivated, are unfavourable to 
 this crop, but under propitious circumstances ginger yields a 
 very large return." - 
 
 ^ Pepper cultivation in Malabar, India, from Messrs. A. M. and J. 
 Ferguson's " Spice Cultivation." 
 - Porter's Tropical Ai^riciilturist.
 
 584 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 Concerning Vanilla, although the plant is found in Zanzibar, 
 I consider its cultivation more suitable to Pemba Island. 
 
 As to the prospects of Indiarubber cultivation, although 
 the specimens of South American rubber trees introduced by 
 Sir John Kirk at Mbweni have taken very kindly to their 
 new surroundings, the Ceara trees especially so, }-et I do not 
 consider that this industry would prove remunerative in 
 Zanzibar, and for these reasons — First, that in order to obtain 
 remunerative returns, extensive areas must be planted ; 
 whilst the Ceara species {]\IaiiiJiot Glar:iovii), which, from its 
 hardy nature and capability of thriving in stony barren 
 regions, might at first sight be considered most suitable 
 for cultivation in the less fertile lands on the eastern and 
 southern coasts of the island, would not answer, as the wild 
 pigs would prove too destructive to its cultivation b)' grubbing 
 up and eating the tubers, of which they are very fond. In 
 many districts of Southern India its cultivation had to be 
 given up for this reason alone. — Secondly, the greater part of 
 the British Protectorate on the mainland is so eminently 
 adapted for its growth and cultivation, that in my opinion 
 it has a more certain prospect of future development in that 
 region, with which Zanzibar could not compete with profit.
 
 ARAB WELL.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 TOUR IN PEMBA ISLAND 
 
 Points needing Investigation^Arrival at Weti — Arab Name for the 
 Island — Exuberance of the \>getation — An Arab Proprietor — Undu- 
 lating Country — Uncultivated Land — ^Fine Clove Trees — Narrow 
 Creeks — Mohamed bin Jumah and his Shambas — Coffee Trees. 
 
 I LEFT Zanzibar on April 2, 1892, for a tour in Pemba Island, 
 in order to make a general report on its products and capa- 
 bilities, on behalf of the Zanzibar Government. 
 
 The steamer Kihva being ready to start, I sent my 
 porters and kit on board ; General Mathews courteously 
 taking me later in his boat and introducing me to the Liwali 
 of Weti, who was also a passenger on board, and to whom I 
 handed my introductory letter from the Sultan. My inten- 
 tion was to land at Weti on the northern part of the island, 
 and make that m}^ head-quarters. The Liwali was an old 
 friend of General Mathews, and promised to give me every 
 help and assistance in his power. 
 
 M)^ instructions, apart from observing the products, mode 
 of cultivation, and soils of the island, were more particularly 
 to obtain information on the following points : — 
 
 1. The reasons for the difference in value between Pemba 
 and Zanzibar copra, the former being inferior, and generally 
 of a very black colour, and being thought to be kiln-dried, 
 instead of sun-dried, as stated to be. 
 
 2. The reason of the smallness of the clove crop in the 
 north of Pemba this season, as compared with last year — the 
 crop in the south of the island being up to the average, and 
 with no signs of falling off in the exports. 
 
 587
 
 588 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 3. Whether dried cloves are smoked, and if the mode of 
 curing the buds Is the same as in Zanzibar. 
 
 4. Whether clove trees grow best on sides of ridges, or flat 
 land, and what are the most favourable soils, etc, 
 
 5. State of rice cultivation. 
 
 6. Whether ground-nuts are cultivated. 
 
 7. The cultivation of nutmegs, capsicums, and the pepper 
 vine {^Piper nigrum). 
 
 After a calm passage, we arrived at Chaki Chaki at 6 p.m., 
 and anchored for the night, and next morning at daylight we 
 steamed to Weti, where H.M.S. Blanche was at anchor in the 
 harbour. I immediately went ashore, accompanied by the 
 Liwali, who was most polite ; he offered me a house in the 
 town, but as it looked hot and stuffy, I preferred my tent and 
 had it pitched under a large zimberao tree outside the town. 
 Weti, well situated at the end of a long, deep and well-protected 
 creek, is a small town, inhabited by many Indian traders, and 
 entirely surrounded by clove and other shambas. The 
 appearance of the surrounding country is very broken, 
 undulating low hills traversing it in every direction. 
 
 Pemba Island lies 40 miles north of Zanzibar. It forms one 
 of the line of coralline islands lying along the eastern coast of 
 Africa, and is divided from the mainland by a channel from 
 20 to 30 miles wide. 
 
 The Arabs call the island " Al-Hathera" (the green), which 
 its luxuriant appearance amply justifies. Pemba extends in 
 a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction for 38 miles, and is about 13 
 miles broad, comprising an area of about 380 square miles. 
 It is fringed on its western side by coral reefs, which shelter 
 the numerous creeks on that coast, where the principal ports 
 and harbours are situated, this being the most cultivated and 
 inhabited part of the island. The surface of the country, with 
 its broken ridges and low valleys, luxuriantly covered with 
 vegetation, nowhere exceeds 300 feet above sea level. 
 
 My first day being Sunday was chiefly spent in settling 
 down in my camp, making arrangements for visiting various 
 parts of the island, and inquiring for suitable guides. Fre- 
 quent heavy downpours occurred through the day, 
 
 I had been much impressed so far with the exubcranth' rich
 
 CHAP. IX ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 589 
 
 vegetation everywhere, even more luxuriant than in Zanzibar. 
 This certaiiil}- indicates a greater rain-fall. The chjve trees 
 round about were larger and finer than those in Zanzibar, and 
 the mango trees grew down almost to the water's edge. As 
 to the soil, I noticed that in the steep bank I ascended on 
 my way to the town on first landing, wherever wash had 
 exposed it, the sides and lower layers consisted of a yellow 
 to red clay subsoil, with a substratum of yellow to white 
 sandstone, whilst the surface soil was generally a black to grey 
 friable loam. The results of my inquiries showed that the 
 pepper vine is not cultivated in the island, black pepper 
 being imported by the Banians or Indian traders, who retail it 
 in the bazaars. 
 
 In the evening I was visited by the Liwali's brother, several 
 influential Arabs and many Indian merchants, and early next 
 morning I received a long visit from the Liwali. We had a 
 long and interesting conversation on many topics, and 
 amongst other information he confirmed all I had been told 
 yesterday as to the pepper vine and nutmeg not being culti- 
 vated. Cultivation in general is carried on much on the same 
 lines as in Zanzibar, cloves being the principal product. 
 
 Shortly after the Liwali's departure I started on my first 
 tour of inspection, taking first the country to the north of 
 Weti, in company with the owner, Sultan bin Mohamed bin 
 Nasur. The field cultivation in the neighbourhood of the 
 town consists principally of sweet cassava {Manihot aipi), 
 intermixed with beans and congo pea {Cajanus indicns), the 
 soil being of a grey to black friable loam with a subsoil of stiff 
 yellow to red clay. 
 
 Passing through a clove shamba, I was struck with the 
 size and appearance of the trees, which grew thick and 
 dense and completely shaded the ground, no weeds or grass 
 growing underneath them ; they were somewhat irregularly 
 planted, being on an average 25 feet apart, and appeared much 
 too close, for the trees in their search for light had shot up tall 
 and lanky, often to a height of 50 to 60 feet. All the buds 
 being on the tips of the branches, the result is that the trees 
 are not so productive as they otherwise would be. They had 
 constantly to cut them down here and there to admit light
 
 590 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part 1 1 
 
 and air. I measured a two-stemmed tree, each stem being 3 
 feet 8 inches in circumference. Further on I passed several 
 shambas where the ckne trees had had to be cut down for 
 the above reason. There was an enormous clove tree at a 
 place called M'Goli, which used to yield seven frasilas of dried 
 cloves, and two men with extended arms could not span it. 
 I found the cultivated products growing in the same mixed 
 style as in Zanzibar ; thin lanky coco-nuts growing in twos 
 and threes and in small clumps, groups of fine mangoe.s, 
 with a good deal of cassava and small clumps of pineapples. 
 The soil all around here (north of Wetij was a grey sandy 
 loam. 
 
 The clove trees in the same district were all in small groups, 
 and about fifty to fifty-five years old. The difference in size 
 and appearance of the clove trees here and in Zanzibar was 
 very noticeable, as the Pemba trees (except in the south 
 part of the island) escaped the destructive hurricane of 1872. 
 
 As I proceeded, there were scattered houses with clumps of 
 bananas, numerous mangoes and many orange trees ; and up 
 to this point there had been more shade than open ground. 
 The difference of soil in the open ground, and in the shade, 
 was also observable ; in the former it was found to be ex- 
 tremely light-coloured and sandy, and in the latter dark- 
 coloured loam, remarkably friable and porous. 
 
 I halted at Chosini shamba, the house of which is situated 
 on and facing the creek, and is a very noticeable object from 
 the harbour of Weti ; some fine Kapok or silk-cotton trees 
 grow on the grounds which slope to the water's edge. 
 
 To summarize, the country traversed so far was very undu- 
 lating in character, with small low valleys often with an 
 abrupt descent. In the bottoms one generally saw wild oil 
 palms {Elceis guijieensis) growing, and ever>'where most 
 luxuriant vegetation of grass and bush, as in Zanzibar. 
 Much of the ground appears uncultivated, and this wild vege- 
 tation abounds everywhere, excepting on the reclaimed land 
 round the houses. The cloves noticed so far were either growing 
 in detached groups or else scattered about in a closely-planted 
 mixture of coco-nut, mango trees, etc. In favoured situations 
 clove trees densely shade the ground, and few trees have
 
 CHAP. IX ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 591 
 
 single stems, but they usually shoot up with two, three, and 
 often four or five stems. The shade is so dense that the 
 clove buds are not dried under the trees, as in Zanzibar, but 
 spread out in specially reserved open places, which (partly 
 with a view to prevent theft) are generally in front of houses. 
 
 I noticed here and there small heaps of coco-nut husks 
 thrown away as useless ; no coir rope whatever is made, all 
 being imported from Zanzibar. Pemba coco-nut trees (the 
 dwarf variety) were planted close to the houses. 
 
 I remained at Chosini shamba for nearly an hour. Sultan 
 bin Mohamed bin Nasur being most polite, and giving me 
 coffee, sherbet, etc., and volunteering me much information 
 concerning clove cultivation. After quitting this shamba I 
 continued on my way till I struck the creek on the other side 
 of the small peninsula on which Weti is placed, the distance 
 from shore to shore being only half-an-hour. Descending to 
 the water's edge by a narrow path between high banks, I 
 observed the surface soil to be a stiff black loam, the subsoil 
 clayey (yellow), with substratum of yellow to white sandstone. 
 Sultan bin Mohamed informed me that where this substratum 
 of sandstone cropped up close to the surface, the ground was 
 unsuitable for cloves, or indeed any cultivation. 
 
 I returned by another way, chiefly through dense mango 
 shade cultivation ; then, after passing a good many banana 
 clumps, I came upon another fine clove plantation in a 
 hollow — the soil being black to grey sandy loam, with a sub- 
 soil yellow to red clay. The ages of the trees were not 
 known. I may add that I always found it a very difficult 
 matter to ascertain the age of clove trees ; no interest seems 
 to be taken in this question, the invariable answer being, 
 " those who planted them know." Coco-nut trees were 
 scattered amongst the cloves, the average planting distance 
 of the latter being 25 to 25! and 26 feet. As in Zanzibar, 
 the people did not know why coco-nut trees were planted 
 amongst the cloves ; they said " it was the custom," and had 
 always been done ! 
 
 Round the sides of the hollow, the black surface loam was 
 washed away, exposing the red clay subsoil mixed with sand- 
 stone. The depth of the surface loam was various, averaging
 
 592 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA Part ii 
 
 jjcrhaps 6 inches. Further on I passed through more fine 
 ckimps of mango and jack trees, thickly planted and quite 
 shading the ground. Below these there was a good deal of 
 banana cultivation, and beyond another fine plantation of 
 clove trees, large and small, mixed up with lank)' coco-nuts. 
 One single-stemmed ck)ve tree that I measured was 50 feet 
 high, and 6 feet in circumference. To pick a tree like this 
 takes six men a whole day, and such trees will yield from 3i 
 to 4 frasilas of green cloves — i frasila of the green being 
 equal to half a frasila of dried cloves. All the trees here 
 averaged fully 4 to 4i feet in circumference, and their spread of 
 foliage from extreme end to end of the branches was exactly 
 25 feet. These fine trees quite shaded the ground, their foli- 
 age mingling ; the height of the first branch from the ground 
 was from 4i to 5 feet. Some, like the one I measured, had 
 single stems, but the majority had several, and they varied in 
 height from 50 feet to 55, 60, and in special instances 70 feet. 
 The very large size of the trees especially struck me. 
 They appear at first to be more closely planted than they 
 really are — more closely than in Zanzibar — but this is not 
 actually the case : it is only their large size, and the fact of 
 their branches meeting and causing the consequent dense 
 shade, which at first conveys that impression. Under the 
 larger trees the shade is so dense that neither grass nor 
 weeds grow — the ground being quite covered with a thick 
 layer of fallen clove leaves. The soil was sandy grey to black 
 loam, very friable. 
 
 The land here still consisted of a succession of low ridges 
 and hollows, being a great contrast to Zanzibar with its 
 stretches of flat country. 
 
 On my way back I passed some clumps of a species of 
 Anioinuiii very much resembling wild cardamoms, growing in 
 a damp situation on uncleared land. Heavy showers fell 
 during the afternoon after my return to camp, making things 
 unpleasant and damp inside my tent, so I sat outside between 
 the showers, though my comfort was disturbed by the con- 
 stantly falling fruit of the zimberao tree, which, being ripe, 
 exploded on falling and bespattered one's clothes and stained 
 everything they splashed a dark red colour. More rain was
 
 CHAP. IX ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 593 
 
 said to fall in Pemba than in Zanzibar, and more at Chaki 
 Chaki than at Weti, thus confirming my previous surmise, but 
 as no Europeans have resided in the island no recorded 
 observations exist. 
 
 The next day I had a very good guide provided by the 
 Liwali, a man well acquainted with the country and its culti- 
 vation, and I started at about 7 a.m. going south. 
 
 After passing clove trees, large and small, close to Weti 
 town, we came upon open country with the usual bush and 
 grass, as well as scattered mango trees and a good deal of 
 cassava cultivation. The sea on the other side of this tract 
 runs inland, forming a long, narrow creek, characteristic of the 
 western side of the island and running almost parallel with 
 Weti creek. The distance between the two creeks is only about 
 fifteen minutes' walk. The opposite side of the creek was low 
 hilly ground, well cultivated, and very undulating. Then the 
 path passed through a hollow, and I noticed one place where 
 the earth had been washed away to a depth of 4 or 5 feet. 
 There the surface soil was of a grey to black sandy loam, the 
 subsoil red and yellowish clay, with a substratum of sandstone 
 very disintegrated and porous. 
 
 The path then led through clove plantations, chiefly young 
 trees, very neglected and overgrown with grass and bush, next 
 through a small village, surrounded by areca-nut palms, 
 bananas, and clumps of coco-nut trees, and some fine mangoes. 
 Silk-cotton trees here became more frequent. I specially 
 noticed one large tree, with a circumference of 5 to 6 feet 
 round the stem, and fully 70 feet high. The soil everywhere 
 was a grey to black sandy loam, light and white in the open 
 country but darker under shade. Further on the appearance 
 of the country improved ; coco-nuts became more numerous, 
 but still very lanky, being planted too closely together. 
 
 On my left was a deep hollow thickly planted with cloves 
 and coco-nut trees, then small scattered plantations of the 
 former intermixed with bananas, mango trees, and cassava 
 patches. The cassava in places was very fine, being over 6 
 and 7 feet in height. The country was still very undulating, 
 and as I proceeded I obtained a distant view, on the left, of 
 a ridge thickly covered with cloves, and in the intervening
 
 594 
 
 ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA part il 
 
 valley, lying close below the path, I noticed jack trees, some 
 of which had been burnt when the busli was cleared. The 
 indigenous fruit trees struck me as larger and more luxuriant 
 here — perhaps because they were few and far apart, and' 
 therefore more fully developed. 
 
 Proceeding next over a flat plain, mangoes and coco-nuts 
 becoming fewer and more scattered, I passed through much 
 uncleared land with occasional fine fields of cassava, which 
 appears to be more extensively cultivated in Pemba than in 
 Zanzibar. The pathway now led down into a valley, the soil 
 on its northern side being stiff black to grey loam, and on its 
 southern side yellow clay, its surface loam evidently having 
 been washed away by the floods of the river which flowed 
 through the centre of the valley. The stream was about 5 feet 
 wide and had its banks fringed with the large-leaved variety 
 of water lily, so familiar along the water-courses of Zanzibar. 
 A little rice was growing, but much more could be grown in 
 this valley, which is fairly extensive and well adapted for its 
 cultivation. 
 
 Much of the land was uncleared, indeed cultivation seems to 
 be carried on only in the immediate neighbourhood of houses. 
 
 Crossing the river, I climbed to the top of a steep ridge, 
 about 300 feet high, its summit thickly planted with clove 
 trees. The upper layer of the soil had been completely 
 washed away, exposing the red and yellow clay of the subsoil 
 with gravelly sandstone beneath. This ridge, as well as the 
 valley I had just traversed, was the property of Mohamed 
 bin Jumah bin Said (bin means "son of"), an enterprising and 
 intelligent Arab gentleman, one of the richest and most 
 influential landowners on the island. I went into his " baraza " 
 (or place of assembly), which was a large stone building — 
 the largest I had seen in Pemba. After some conversation, 
 and having learnt the object of my visit, Mohamed personally 
 conducted me through his clove plantations. The trees were 
 very large and many-stemmed, about sixty years old, and 
 planted at distances of 29 by 33 feet. The soil was 
 generally light friable sandy loam, and the subsoil red clay. 
 On the southern side there was a hollow, surrounded b}' small 
 ridges, all thickl}- planted with fine clove trees.
 
 CHAP. IX ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 595 
 
 I noticed a few trees of Arabian coffee growing near the 
 house. They were looking very healthy, with no trace of leaf 
 disease, and were bearing fruit, whilst young seedlings were 
 growing beneath. I was also shown a vanilla vine, which 
 Mohamed bin Jumah told me he had obtained from the French 
 priests at Zanzibar, afterwards discovering that it grew on the 
 island. He also took me to see his small experimental 
 plantation situated in a hollow. Not knowing any better, 
 he had planted the vanilla cuttings in the open at the foot 
 of stakes about 6 feet high. In that situation, I told him, 
 they would soon die for want of shade. He promised to 
 send a man to guide me to the place where he had found 
 the wild vanilla, and in return I gave him some needful 
 information as to its cultivation, also promising to ask 
 General Mathews to obtain for him particulars from the 
 French missionaries at Bagamoyo, as to the vanilla cultivation 
 carried on there. Mohamed accompanied me back to Weti, 
 having courteously placed two donkeys at my disposal for 
 myself and interpreter. After he had called on the Liwali he 
 came back to my tent, where we had a long talk on a variety 
 of topics, and amongst other things he told me that the Arabs 
 consider Pemba the best island for the cultivation of cloves, 
 and Zanzibar the best for coco-nuts. 
 
 The soil of the hilly and broken country which I had gone 
 over this day was in some places a stiff black to dark grey 
 loam, but in others the black upper soil was very thin, and 
 wherever holes had been dug the earth was generally mixed 
 with the yellow clay subsoil, the substratum being always of 
 porous sandstone. 
 
 So far I had not seen an\' " ilook " grass.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 TOUR IN PEMBA ISLAND — continued 
 
 The Sea-shore near Weti — Cross Weti Creek^Coco-nut Groves — Exten- 
 sive Cultivation — Cassava — A Considerable River — Drenching Rain 
 — Witchcraft — Wild Vanilla — Swampy Walleys — Hilly Country — Great 
 Extent of Clove Shambas — Need of Drainage — Complete my Inspec- 
 tion. 
 
 The morning of my third clay in Pemba (April 6) com- 
 menced with heavy rain, which with short intervals lasted 
 throughout the day. My plans for this morning were to visit 
 the small peninsula south of Weti creek. Whilst waiting for 
 my guide, I strolled down to the sea-shore, which is here 
 fringed with belts of thick mangroves. The banks along the 
 shore are about 8 feet high, and are composed of a light to 
 darker yellow sandstone, and covered with thick vegetation. 
 I did not see any coral. My guide having arrived, we, that is 
 myself, guide, and interpreter, embarked in a small, fragile 
 canoe and started for the opposite shore. We had a most 
 exciting passage across, for we experienced some heavy 
 squalls of wind and rain, and more than once were nearly 
 swamped ; we had eventually to wade ashore through shallow 
 water amidst a belt of thick mangroves. The banks on this 
 side were very high, their composition being of yellow sand- 
 stone, in places cropping out on the surface. Climbing to the 
 top of the bank, which was difficult owing to the slippery 
 nature of the ground and the numerous rivulets caused by 
 the heavy rain, I found the same characteristics of soil as on 
 the ojipositc creek, viz. black to grey surface loam and a 
 
 59<^
 
 CHAP. X ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 597 
 
 yellow clay subsoil. The sides of the banks were covered 
 with exuberant vet^etation, lovely ferns and many,'o trees 
 actually flourishing to the very edge, notwithstanding their 
 closeness to the sea. 
 
 Beyond these mango trees I emerged into a fine cultivated 
 area — cassava and clumps of mango and coco-nut trees growing 
 closely together, the coco-nut with an unusually decided bend 
 in the stem. In the open the soil was a sandy grey loam. In 
 a plantation which I now entered I was again struck with the 
 large and fine appearance of the trees, and also their too great 
 proximity to each other ; their lowest branches in many cases 
 were 10 and 12 feet from the ground. This plantation, called 
 " Kidunda Uchowi," was the property of Said bin Hamisi bin 
 Said, brother of Mohamed bin Jumah, also a large and 
 influential landowner here. From this shamba I passed 
 through mixed cultivation, noticing many fine mango trees, 
 their large spreading branches offering excellent facilities for 
 shade cultivation. Coco-nuts abound here, and two trees that 
 I measured at random are samples of their size. One was 
 4 feet in circumference, 2 feet from the ground, the other 4 
 feet 2 inches at 3 feet from the base of the stem. In 
 general they are tall and lanky, tapering to a great height and 
 usually with the decided curve in the stem already described ; 
 a few trees had two stems from one base. The path now 
 wound up-hill, giving me a glimpse of a fine coco-nut grove in 
 a valley on my right ; the country all around me appeared 
 ■fairly well cultivated, chiefly with clove and coco-nut trees, 
 though there was much uncleared land to be seen. I con- 
 tinued along the top of the ridge (the soil being of a rich deep 
 red to chocolate loam) and entered a large clove plantation 
 intermixed with coco-nuts, the ground beneath very weedy. 
 This plantation covered the whole of one hill and part of 
 another, and must have belonged to several owners ; all 
 vacancies I noticed had been carefully supplied with young 
 plants. Crossing the intervening low valley between the 
 ridges, where an oil palm was growing in a muddy red clay 
 soil with the usual yellow sandstone substratum, I went up 
 the other side, the soil on the side of the ridge being a bright 
 red stiff clay, the upper surface loam haxing been all washed
 
 598 ZANZIBAR AND PEMliA part il 
 
 away. On the top of this second ridge the surface loam was 
 dark, the subsoil red as before. The dej)th of the surface soil 
 varies considerably, from a few inches to as much as i foot, 
 and it is in the richer and more fertile parts that houses are 
 most numerous. 
 
 Here the country was all under cultivation, groves of 
 coco-nut and mango trees growing everywhere, whilst both 
 sides of the path were lined with numerous young and old 
 clo\e trees, and there were occasional open spaces planted 
 with bananas and cassava, chiefly the sweet variety. In one of 
 these open spaces called " Umbage " I remarked some very 
 fine silk-cotton trees. I constantly passed heaps of coco-nut 
 husks, thrown away as useless rubbish. The richness of the 
 vegetation increased as I proceeded, the growth of the bush 
 and grass being kept in check by the shade of the many large 
 mango, jack, orange and clove trees, whilst banana and 
 cassava patches were numerous. As I penetrated further into 
 the interior of the island, cloves gave place to coco-nuts. The 
 soil varied from a rich dark grey friable loam to, in places, 
 more consistent chocolate to red clay. 
 
 In the open flat places a great deal of cassava seemed to 
 be grown, these open spaces being everywhere surrounded by 
 groves of coco-nut trees of a much more vigorous and healthy 
 appearance than those nearer the coast. Some scattered but 
 small clove cultivation was visible, and mango trees were 
 large and luxuriant. Rank grass and bush grew everywhere 
 with but few attempts at clearing, the prevalent growth being 
 a small grass with short broad blades. Further inland the 
 broken nature of the country continued, the chief cultiva- 
 tion being very fine cassava, but, more often than not, 
 unwceded. Around the houses grew bananas, Congo pea, 
 and coco-nut and mango trees. There was a great deal of 
 uncleared land. The soil everywhere was very rich, chiefly 
 black to dark grey sandy loam, whiter in places. Occasionally 
 patches of ferns and bracken were to be seen, and sometimes 
 isolated clove plantations; but as the country became more 
 broken, cultivation ceased. 
 
 .After passing over several ridges and through the interxen- 
 ing small valleys, which generally contained water, I presently
 
 CHAP. X ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 599 
 
 crossed a fairly large river flowing through an uncultivated 
 valley admirably suitable for rice cultivation. Crossing 
 the river I passed over a succession of uncultivated ridges, 
 although the small mango trees scattered about showed 
 that at one time cultivation had existed there. The soil 
 varied from grey to black loam, with always a subsoil of 
 clay, and here and there an outcrop of sandstone. Many of the 
 valleys that I saw were well adapted for rice cultivation. 
 In the large valley which I next entered, all overgrown with 
 grass and quite uncultivated, I noticed groups of a variety of 
 palm, called in Swahili " Miwale " or " Mwale," growing round 
 a swamp in the centre. The soil was a rich black loam. On 
 the right this valley was bordered by a clove plantation 
 called " Kitambu," also the property of Said bin Hamisi ; the 
 soil here being a red loam. On a slight ridge beyond one or 
 two Borassus palms were growing. This palm is scarce in 
 this part of the island, though it is numerous around Chaki 
 Chaki. 
 
 On the top of a hill, reached by climbing up a bare I'idge, 
 was situated the house of Said bin Hamisi, upon whom I 
 called. On leaving, in a drenching rain, I descended the hill 
 again, and crossing a very muddy mangrove swamp, climbed 
 up the ridge on the other side, where I noticed some fine 
 aloes {Furcnea) growing. The soil on the side of the ridge 
 was chiefly stiff yellow clay. On descending this ridge I 
 entered an uncultivated valley, all grass and bush, and saw 
 a good many " Mikindu " palms {E?icephalartos sp.), much 
 resembling sago palms, from the leaves of which fine mats are 
 made. After this I went over and down another ridge with a 
 very slippery descent (for it continued to pour with rain all the 
 time), and through another very extensive mangrove swamp 
 called " Mitopalchi." Then across another ridge, passing more 
 aloes, through another valley partly cultivated with rice, and 
 after this through a third mangrove swamp, succeeded by gently 
 rising ground, all uncultivated, where I noticed for the first 
 time " ilook " grass. I was, however, approaching cultivation 
 again, for from the top of this last ridge I saw the property 
 of Mohamed bin Jumah on the right-hand side. 
 
 On this excursion I had gone over a considerable area of
 
 6oo ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 
 
 country, extend ini^" in fact to the eastern coast of the island. 
 On my way home I noticed a fine cinnamon tree near the 
 town growing in front of a house. 
 
 Rain still continued to fall heavily, and in the evening, 
 writing being impossible, I had a conversation with Masud, 
 my interpreter, concerning witchcraft and sorcery, the belief 
 in which appears to be very prevalent ; he gave me the 
 following information on the subject. He said that the 
 Swahili believed that Mombasa people bewitched Zanzi- 
 baris on coming over to the mainland, because they were 
 jealous of them. A man wishing to become a wizard, or a 
 woman desiring to become a witch, has to sacrifice a son or 
 daughter, or any near relative, and eat the body with the 
 wizards or witches, after which ceremony admission to the 
 secrets of the craft is granted. 
 
 The witch or sorcerer puts a piece of wood into the bed, in 
 place of the victim whose body they have removed by their 
 spells, and gives it the appearance and voice of the slain one, 
 the piece of wood being eventually buried by the relatives 
 under the belief that it is really the body of the victim, who, 
 they think, has sickened and died. 
 
 The next morning (April 7) was still showery. Fully five 
 inches of rain must have fallen during the night. 
 
 In the afternoon I started on a donkey kindly sent by 
 Mohamed bin Jumah to take me to his house, whence we 
 were to visit the place where he had seen the wild vanilla 
 growing. We proceeded along the ridge, through his hand- 
 some and cleanly-kept plantations, obtaining glimpses of low 
 valleys on the eastern side. All the surrounding ridges were 
 covered with clove trees, the whole the property of Mohamed 
 bin Jumah. 
 
 The sides of the valley were clothed with rich, thick vegeta- 
 tion, amongst which there were many oil palms — generally 
 found in low, moist situations. We then went down a very 
 steep path, passing through a large clump of pineapples, all 
 growing in one thick mass, and all round us dense, exuberant 
 vegetation, fine trees and masses of ferns. The soil was 
 yellow clay. 
 
 At the bottom lay a low, narrow, swampy vallc)', and the
 
 CHAP. X ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 6oi 
 
 character of the surrounding vegetation — the Amonium plants, 
 ferns, trees, etc. — reminded me strongly of India or Ceylon. 
 It was altogether a lovely tropical scene. The middle of 
 this valley was about knee-deep in water, in which luxuriant 
 aquatic grass and shrubs were growing. I waded through 
 this, following the course of the valley, and after passing 
 through a deeper swamp or morass (the soil everywhere a 
 rich loamy black), the valley narrowed, being hemmed in on 
 all sides by low hills covered with large trees and the richest 
 vegetation. We then emerged into a smaller valley, also 
 swampy, and covered with dense vegetation, amongst which 
 were growing many forest trees with fine straight boles, and 
 clinging to these, hanging down from the branches and 
 straggling over the ground, was the vanilla plant. I noticed 
 that the roots grew under the very deepest shade of the 
 undergrowth. The plants were most luxuriant, climbing 
 about in every direction. 
 
 We returned by a different route, through another swampy 
 valley, which had been cleared for rice and divided into tiny 
 sections with little " bunds," reminding one of a miniature Indian 
 rice-field, and showing what could be done in this way in the 
 numerous valleys of this island. The country around presented 
 the usual aspect — low undulating hills and deep valleys clothed 
 with the richest vegetation; the latter generally containing 
 water. After ascending two low hills we got back again to 
 Mohamed bin Jumah's house, passing through a different part 
 of his large clove plantation on the way. This plantation was 
 certainly one of the finest I had seen. I took the trees to be 
 about sixty years of age, and some of them were very large. 
 They were planted much wider apart than on the northern 
 face, the distances being 25 and '^^6 feet, and even then the top 
 branches of the trees almost met. The average height of the 
 trees must have been over 50 feet. Looking down the regular 
 lines they presented a series of beautiful shady avenues which- 
 ever way one looked. Certainly there are few scenes more- 
 beautiful than that of a well-kept and mature clove plantation. 
 I noticed, however, many trees which needed pruning. I 
 called Mohamed's attention to them, but his great fear was 
 that any damage should be done to the branches; and for that
 
 6o2 ZANZllJAR AND I'EMliA i>.\ktii 
 
 reason he would not employ hired labourers,' who would 
 not be so careful as his own slaves. 
 
 At my suggestion, Mohamed bin Jumah was going to try 
 to grow some vanilla on trellis-work in the centre of some of 
 his rows of clove trees, where the larger trees shade the 
 ground ; and he showed me some holes he had already dug. 
 The results of this experiment should be interesting, because, 
 if successful, it would afford shamba owners another means of 
 utilizing their clove plantations, should the value of this spice 
 go on decreasing, or its profitable cultivation be from any 
 other cause made more difficult. Eventually, the vanilla 
 [jlants nn'ght even be trained on the clove trees themselves, 
 though whether this experiment would succeed is an open 
 question, for the vanilla is a parasite, and although growing 
 from the ground is chiefly an aerial feeder, depending much 
 upon the tree which supports it for its nourishment. 
 
 The soil of this plantation is a fine, rich, dark loam, with 
 red to yellow clay subsoil, and the ground is constantly 
 enriched by the humus formed from the constantly falling 
 and decaying leaves ; this goes on all over the island. 
 
 On my return I took an opportunity of measuring the 
 cinnamon tree I had noticed the day before ; it was a fine, 
 healthy specimen, nearly 4 feet in circumference near the 
 ground and the same girth 5 feet higher up the stem. 
 
 I understand that stone for building purposes is very dear 
 in Pemba, one donkey load of coral costing a rupee, and 
 consequently only the richest people possess stone houses. It 
 struck me that it might be practicable and profitable to ship 
 coral-stone from Zanzibar as ballast, bringing back a cargo of 
 dry coco-nuts. 
 
 On April 8, the fifth and last day of my visit to Pemba, I 
 started in the morning to inspect the country to the E.N.E. of 
 Weti. After walking for some distance through a large 
 plantation belonging to Sheik bin AH bin Nasur, the clove 
 trees of which were very large, I entered, beyond a large 
 \illage, the extensive clove plantation of "Kisimbam'," the 
 
 ' For guthcring cloves. But Mohamed was a ricli man, with jjlenty of 
 shives, and tluis quite independent of hired lal)our. Smaller men had no 
 option.
 
 CHAP. X ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 603 
 
 property of Sultan Mohamed. The lay of the land was very 
 hilly, the soil on the top of the ridges being a black loam, but 
 this upper loam was usually washed away, exposing the subsoil 
 and showing great want of drainage. 
 
 Kisimbani plantation was of considerable extent, contain- 
 ing very fine, luxuriant trees, originally planted 28 by 17 
 feet apart, but every other row had to be cut down to admit 
 more light. I observed that the cloves were generally planted 
 on ridges or slopes, seldom in hollows, which as a rule are left 
 uncultivated. The soil in this shamba was a black to grey 
 loam of a depth of i^^ feet, with the usual clay subsoil 
 beneath. 
 
 Here coco-nut trees were planted only amongst the cloves. 
 On the top of the ridge the trees were very poor and lanky, 
 with yellow foliage, and some appeared to be dying ; the 
 reason probably was that the substratum was too close to the 
 surface. Further on the soil improved. 
 
 After going through another clove shamba the path emerged 
 into uncultivated country, passing some hollows where oil 
 palms were growing. The country was very hilly. No rice 
 was grown here, the cultivation being chiefly cloves and 
 cassava. Proceeding across an undulating country I noticed 
 on the way a great many pineapples growing about. The 
 frequent valleys, the descents into which were generally 
 extremely steep, mostly contained water, and in some of the 
 hollows there were fine timber trees. 
 
 Travelling along a continuous flat ridge I passed many 
 clove plantations, frequently contiguous to one another. The 
 soil on the ridges was a grey to black loam, but on the sides 
 it was washed away as usual. I saw very few mangoes or 
 coco-nuts about here. 
 
 The next considerable plantation I passed through (called 
 " Kisiwani ") might be described as very clean, but with soil 
 washed away along the ridges, and needing drainage badly. 
 The clove trees were all mature (the planting distance being 
 2 5i- by 25^ feet), and as usual shaded the ground. They were 
 very regular and showed no vacancies, nor were coco-nut trees 
 growing among them. 
 
 An open space contained a slave village and drying-ground,
 
 6o4 ZANZIBAR AND I'EMBA part 1 1 
 
 with some small clumps of pineapples. In every clove 
 shamba that I had passed, trees were being cut down to admit 
 more light and air, in some cases one tree, in others two or 
 three together, and in very thickly-shaded places, whole rows 
 had been cut down. In marked contrast to what I had seen 
 in Zanzibar, slave huts appeared very scarce and far between 
 in the Pemba plantations. In this northern part of the island 
 I found myself in a regular clove plantation, extending on 
 every side and as a rule very clean and regular ; as on all the 
 larger shambas, vacancies were very carefully supplied. I also 
 saw a fairly large clearing of }'oung cloves, the trees being 
 4 to 5 feet high, with cassava planted thickly amongst them. 
 The surface soil on the sides of the ridges was everywhere 
 washed away, and along this valley the very heavy wash had 
 exj)osed the roots of the cassava and young clove trees. 
 Drainage would of course obviate all this, but was practised 
 nowhere. Except around Arab houses and slave huts, there 
 were no plantations of coco-nut trees, though a solitary one 
 might be seen here and there amongst the cloves. 
 
 After leaving the shamba succeeding Kisiwani, I passed 
 into another called " Utani," a very weedy and neglected one, 
 with many vacancies, high grass and bush, and much " ilook " 
 grass growing. The trees were probably seventeen to twenty 
 years old. Now and again I came upon curious basin-shaped 
 low and abrupt valleys. 
 
 A distant ridge on the right was covered with a thick 
 coco-nut grove, the first that I had seen for some time. On 
 the left cloves continued, much neglected, with a great deal of 
 " ilook " grass and bracken fern. I then emerged once more 
 into uncultivated country, all bush, which was soon succeeded 
 by a fertile area of luxuriant groves of coco-nut, cassava-fields, 
 cloves and mangoes. 
 
 The next plantation was called " Kwale," and was the most 
 northern one that I visited. It was a large shamba of fine 
 old trees, regularly planted at a distance of 29 by 29 feet; the 
 circumference of one tree at the base was 6 feet, and the 
 axerage height was from 40 to 45 feet. The soil was very 
 rich, dark gre\', sandy loam. 
 
 This shamba was, on the whole, very clean. From here the
 
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 Statute Miles 
 
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 CHAP. X ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 605 
 
 path descended into a lovely valley, the sides of which were 
 clothed with rich vegetation, and it possessed an abundant 
 water sujiply from a small river, being another of these 
 numerous valleys so well adapted for rice cultivation. Some 
 fine mango trees were growing in it. A turn in the valley led 
 into another one with a swampy river in the centre, where at 
 last a little rice was growing. 
 
 A steep ascent finally brought me through scattered clove 
 and mango trees to a sandy flat plain with a good deal 
 of cassava, then into a fine, open, cultivated valley which 
 belonged to Mohamcd bin Jumah. Here I noticed the second 
 cinnamon tree that I saw in Temba, growing in front of some 
 slave houses. It was 30 feet high, and its stem measured 
 3 feet 10 inches in circumference, the branches beginning 
 5 feet from the ground. 
 
 From here I returned to Weti, thus completing my inspec- 
 tion, and sailed next morning for Mombasa in the Sultan's 
 steamer Kikva, which had been sent for my use. The steward's 
 brother had been cook to Bishop Hannington, and was 
 murdered with his master near Uganda.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 AGRICULTURE IN PEMBA ISLAND 
 
 Clove Cultivation in Pemba — Nutmegs — Copra Drying — Rich Soil of the 
 Island — The Labour Question — Scarcity of Capital. 
 
 The soil of Pemba so exactly meets the requirements of the 
 clove tree — which is the principal product — that it may be 
 useful to summarize the chief points connected with its culti- 
 vation, as at present carried on. 
 
 The trees on an average are planted 30 feet apart. They 
 thrive best on flat land, with an upper layer of black to grey 
 loam, and a subsoil of yellow clay. On nothing but clay 
 they do not grow well, so that on the top and sides of ridges 
 the ground is less suitable, owing to the wash so often 
 referred to, no system of drainage being employed. The 
 method of cultivation carried on here is the same as in 
 Zanzibar, and the trees in special localities will begin to yield 
 in the fourth or fifth year from planting ; under ordinary 
 conditions six years from planting. The cultivation of cloves 
 was stated to be increasing every year ; for instance, I 
 noticed that there were many young plants on Chosini 
 shamba, the owner of which proposed to extend it. On 
 inquiring the reason of this extension of cultivation when 
 they had not sufficient labour (/. c. slaves) to cultivate their 
 old trees properly, the reply was that they hired labourers, 
 procuring the services of the Wapembc,^ or original inhabit- 
 ants. These labourers were paid chiefly in kind, receiving in 
 times of specially large crops, in the beginning of the season, 
 
 ^ Living on the eastern side of the island, and said to possess large 
 numbers of cattle. 
 
 606
 
 CHAP. XI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 607 
 
 one-half of what they gathered, and, later on, five pice for 
 each pishi (about 6 lbs.). The average quantity gathered by 
 a good picker would be twenty-five to twenty-six pishi, for 
 which he would receive 125 pice, or nearly two rupees per 
 diem. Six men are required to pick large trees, four on the 
 ladder, and two underneath ; and if the crop is a heavy one, 
 a single large tree will afford them employment for a day. 
 Small trees require four men, two above and two below. The 
 gatherers each keep a separate basket, and in the evening 
 measure out the clove-buds picked during the day. The 
 buds have to be picked off the stalks, nothing being paid for 
 these. 
 
 On an average each clove tree is picked three times in the 
 season. 
 
 The hired labourer, for the same reason as in Zanzibar, is 
 called in Swahili "kibarua." In short crop seasons the owner 
 takes three-fourths, and the picker one-fourth only, of what 
 the latter gathers in a day. All cloves are sun-dried, artificial 
 drying being never practised. The larger shamba owners 
 have a cleared space in front of their houses for drying cloves 
 and copra. 
 
 I made special inquiries as to the reason of the difference 
 in last season's yield between Weti and Chaki Chaki. The 
 Arabs did not seem to be aware that there had been any 
 diminution in the yield of Weti district, and, on being pressed, 
 could give no other reason than " the will of God." Mohamed 
 bin Jumah bin Said subsequently informed me that the 
 deficiency of this season's crop at Weti was owing to the 
 clove plantations being so overgrown with bush and grass 
 that they had all to be cleared at once, and this took up 
 so much of the available labour that there were too {q.\n 
 hands left for the picking. This explanation — leaving out of 
 account Mohamed's objection to hired labour already alluded to 
 — would point to the conclusion that Chaki Chaki commanded 
 a larger labour supply, and that in Weti district, the whole of 
 the slaves having been put on to clean up the plantations, the 
 owners were obliged to hire labourers for the picking, and to 
 make up the deficienc)- in this way as far as they could. I 
 carefull}- examined a sample of dried Pemba cloves, and
 
 6o8 ZANZir.AR AND PEMBA part ii 
 
 found that they were undoubtedly smaller and blacker than 
 the Zanzibar cloves, and the difference between them and 
 the bright red heads of the Zanzibar product was very 
 marked. 
 
 Nutmegs. — One afternoon, at Weti, my interpreter, Masud, 
 brought me some dry, black nutmeg seeds which he had 
 obtained from the shop of a Banian, who had informed him 
 that nutmeg trees were growing in a shamba about two hours' 
 distance off. He had also been told by a Zanzibari that 
 nutmeg trees were growing in Zanzibar Island, in the Mwera 
 valley, where I mentioned that a new bridge was being built. 
 But although, when in Zanzibar, I repeatedly asked about 
 such trees, the reply always was that they did not grow there. 
 I saw none. Concerning the nutmegs in Pemba, I made 
 several inquiries afterwards, and found the people quite 
 ignorant on the subject, until I learned from Mohamed bin 
 Jumah that he knew where some trees were growing, and he 
 promised to show me the spot. I found the tree, a solitary 
 one ! on the plantation of Mohamed's brother. Said bin Hamisi 
 bin Said, at the place called " Kidunda Uchowi." Its circum- 
 ference at the base was 5 feet, and at 6 feet from the ground 
 3 feet. The lowest branches were 4 feet from the ground. 
 The diameter of the spread, from end to end of the branches, 
 was from 25 to 30 feet, and the tree was about 40 feet high. 
 It was growing among large clove trees, and much too heavily 
 shaded by them ; no grass or weeds grew below. The soil 
 was a very rich, black, sandy loam. 
 
 Copra. — I paid particular attention to the manner of copra 
 preparation in Pemba. With reference to the characteristic 
 black colour of Pemba copra, the Liwali of Weti informed 
 me that they did not get enough sun for sun-drying, and the 
 poor people, anxious to obtain an immediate sale of their 
 copra, dried it by fire-heat, thus imparting the colour to it. 
 They were quite aware that it brought them a smaller price 
 in consequence, but in this way they could dispose of their 
 nuts more quickl}'. The larger shamba owners have a cleared 
 space in front of their houses for drying both the coco-nuts 
 and the cloves. The Liwali also informed me that the coco- 
 nut trees at Chaki Chaki were much finer than those at Weti,
 
 CHAP. XI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 609 
 
 where, it was stated, there was a smaller rain-fall than at the 
 former place. 
 
 As to the methods of drying copra — in the dry season it 
 is put out in the sun in the ordinary way, and, treated thus, 
 it takes seven days' hot sun to thoroughly dry it. In wet 
 weather artificial drying is resorted to. The process is carried 
 out on raised platforms, 4 to 4^ feet high, on which crossed 
 sticks are placed close together. On these the coco-nuts, split 
 into halves, are put, face downwards, and then covered with 
 banana leaves to keep off the rain (which was pouring the 
 day I inspected the operation). Underneath, the fire is made 
 of the dry coco-nut shells ; these give out a dense smoke 
 which blackens the nuts. Two days' continuous drying is 
 considered sufficient to thoroughly dry the nut, and the kernel 
 or copra is then extracted from the shell and is ready for 
 export. The dry shell is easily split with a knife, and is used 
 for future burning. In view of the poor price these blackened 
 nuts obtain, it seemed to me that it would be worth the while 
 of some enterprising individual or firm — and much to the 
 advantage of the people — to start an agency at Weti, and 
 buy up the whole of the nuts of Pem'ba Island, shipping them 
 to one of the drier mainland ports, where they could be broken 
 and sun-dried. 
 
 An observer, glancing at the numerous clove plantations 
 and coco-nut trees seen from the sea, is apt to believe the 
 island to be much more extensively cultivated than it really 
 is ; but, in the interior, much land appears to be either alto- 
 gether uncultivated or gone to waste. The island possesses 
 many rich, low valleys, nearly all well irrigated, and eminently 
 adapted for rice cultivation, the soil being chiefly a rich black 
 loam. In fact it is everywhere very rich, except in occasional 
 places where the sandstone substratum crops up near the 
 surface ; and the very large number of mango, jack, silk- 
 cotton, and other native fruit trees could easily be utilized for 
 the cultivation of both the vanilla and the pepper vine. 
 
 Cultivation in Pcmba has long been so entirely dependent 
 on slave labour, that any change in the status of the slave 
 population must necessarily revolutionize the industrial con- 
 ditions of the island. As in Zanzibar, the plantation owners 
 
 K R
 
 6io ZANZ1I5AR AND PEMBA I'AKT li 
 
 of Pemba have for years felt severely the effects of the pre- 
 ventive measures directed against the importation of slaves, 
 and, in order to obtain some limited supplies, every artifice 
 has had to be practised to elude the vigilance of the authori- 
 ties and of the cruisers. The price of slaves accordingly has 
 run very high. As I have mentioned, I came over from 
 Zanzibar in the Sultan's steamer Kihua, and my interpreter 
 Masud afterwards told me that slaves had been brought over 
 on that trip.^ Of course, the thing is done by stratagem, the 
 women being dressed in bright cloths by the Arabs, and 
 passed off as their concubines. The fare from Zanzibar was 
 only three rupees. I was told that in Pemba slaves sold at 
 as high as lOO dollars each, whilst in Zanzibar the price varied 
 from 40 to 50 dollars. In Pemba, concubines sold for as much 
 as 200 dollars, the price in special cases even reaching 1000 
 and 1200 dollars. I was further informed by Masud that the 
 slaves were sometimes smuggled over from the German main- 
 land in canoes, covered over with grass, on which fish were 
 laid. The traffic was so profitable that one successful trip 
 compensated for many failures, each slave yielding a profit of 
 50 dollars and more, if sold in Pemba. It was, I believe, the 
 custom of our sailors in the old days, on boarding a suspicious 
 boat, to scatter cayenne pepper or snuff through the nicks of 
 the deck ; the slaves, if any were on board, revealed their 
 presence by vigorous sneezing, whereupon the dhow would 
 be seized and the slaves at once set free. 
 
 Mohamed bin Jumah, with whom I often conversed, 
 expressed a good deal of scepticism with respect to what 
 I told him as to our proposed attempts at cultivation on 
 the mainland. To the Arab, even in the case of so intelligent 
 and advanced a man as Mohamed, no cultivation is possible 
 in Africa except by slaves : these are simply indispensable. 
 This is the inevitable result of ignorance. Surely, one would 
 think, that even to the Arab mind the conviction must slowly 
 come, that the exorbitant prices they have had to give for the 
 few imported slaves would pay for a larger labour supply of a 
 better and more profitable description ! The march of civiliz- 
 
 ' Soon afterwards one of these steamers was seized by H.M.S. Blanche 
 for this very reason.
 
 CHAP. XI ZANZIBAR AND PEMBA 6i i 
 
 ation has swept away once for all this cruel and ancient 
 system, and it cannot be very long before English enterprise 
 develops the resources of this lovely and fertile tropical island. 
 Another question of great importance connected with the 
 future agricultural prospects of Pemba is that of the solvency 
 of the shamba owners. Capital is essential to any degree of 
 prosperity, and it is very possible that the present race of 
 owners, owing to their financial situation, are not to be 
 regarded (excepting, of course, such wealthy men as Mohamed 
 bin Jumah) as likely factors in the future development of 
 the island. Most of the land is mortgaged to Indian traders, 
 who could foreclose at any time, if they saw it was to their 
 interest to do so. By the present system of advances the 
 shamba owner is compelled to sell his crop at low rates to the 
 Banian who lends him the money, the lowest rate of interest 
 charged being 20 per cent. — that is, twelve dollars for every 
 ten dollars advanced. Very often the Arab owner is unable 
 to repay his advances at the end of the year owing to short 
 crops, and then the money that has to be again borrowed is 
 added to the former debt and interest, and thus the shamba 
 owner gradually becomes hopelessly involved and quite in the 
 hands of the Banian. If the latter forecloses, as he cannot, 
 being a British subject, hold slaves, and more especially as 
 cultivating the land is not his profession, he sells the estate 
 again — on advantageous terms if there are many slaves — 
 and the new owner probably starts with a debt on his 
 property, not being able to pay the whole purchase money 
 at once. It is obvious that there can be no agricultural 
 development and prosperity in Pemba while such a system 
 as this prevails.
 
 APPENDICES
 
 APPENDIX A 
 
 FURTHER INFORMATION RESPECTING THE 
 WA-GIRYAMAi 
 
 The Wa-Giryama recognize the following subdivisions of 
 the Nyika tribes {see p. 103), of which for simpHcity I only 
 give the Swahili names — 
 
 Wa-Diinnna inhabiting the Duruma country, 
 Wa-Rabai ,, „ Rabai „ 
 
 Wa-Ribe „ „ Ribe „ 
 
 Wa-K(vnba „ „ Sabaki „ 
 
 and the ]Va-Yibana, IVa- C/io n^i, ?ind Wa-Kauma ; the last 
 being the colony from among the Wa-Ribe settled in the 
 district of M'Kauma-Kendzi, in Northern Giryama. 
 
 On the northern limit (beyond the Kaumas) there are the 
 IVa-Sanye, the tribe reduced to servitude by the Gallas, and 
 now only speaking Galla, and on the southern side (beyond 
 Duruma), the Wa-Digo inhabiting the Digo country. 
 
 The following are the tribes best known to the Giryamas. 
 It is an interesting fact that the Dwarf dwellers of the 
 interior, discovered by Mr. Stanley and other travellers, 
 appear to have been already known to them. 
 
 1. Divarfs of the Interior, called in Giryama Abirikimo. 
 (Derivation, probably from the root luiri = little — int'unibiri, 
 monkey = mt'u mdogo, little man — and kinio, stature.) 
 
 2. Gallas. Agala, of Ugalani. With these are reckoned, 
 Alangula or Asanye ; Usagidzuni (Sw. Usegegu). 
 
 3. Masai. Akwavi, also Wakwavi, of Masaini, poetically 
 " Kwenyi fumo la Kungara," the land of the shining spear. 
 Both the warlike Masai proper and the agricultural Wakwavi 
 are included in the Giryama term. 
 
 ^ Taken, by kind permission, from the Re\-. W. E. Taylor's Vocabtilaiy 
 of the Giryama Laut^iiagc. 
 
 615
 
 6i6 APPENDIX A 
 
 Aarusa (Sw. Waarusha). Tribes of Masai origin now settled 
 in a semi-agricultural life to the south-west of Kilimanjaro, 
 
 Asugula. These are said to have their habitat near the 
 Masai, or among them. 
 
 4. Nyamiiczi., people of. Anj-amwizi, of Nyamwizi (Sw. 
 Wanyamwizi, of N)'amuezi, miscalled Unyamwczi). 
 
 5. Nyasa tribes. Anyasa, of Nyasa (Sw. \\'an)'asa). 
 Properly the Nyangas of Lake Nyasa. 
 
 6. Nyika tribes (Sw. Wanyika, of Nyika), already referred to. 
 
 7. P'are, people of. Ap'are. 
 
 8. Swahili. Adzomba, of Udzomba. Waswahili, divided 
 into — Wagunya, Ar. Bajuni ; Wasawahili fpeople of Patta, 
 Manda, Lamu, etc.) ; Waswahili, or -suahili, as far as Vanga ; 
 Wam'rima, of the Mrima (Ar. Meram), from P'angani south- 
 wards ; Waunguja, inhabitants of Zanzibar (the Wapemba 
 take their origin from Mombasa, etc.). Among people of 
 Swahili stock appear to be — 
 
 Ajidu (Wakatwa). 
 
 Ambokomo, of Mbokomo (Wapokomo, of Pokomo). 
 
 9. Taita, people of Ataita (Wa-taita). Near or among 
 these are said to be the 
 
 Angambwa. 
 
 10. Taveta, people of Ataveta (Wa-). 
 
 1 1 . Ukanibani, people of 
 Akamba (Wa-). 
 Akikuyu, of Kikuyu (Wa-). 
 
 Anoka, a tribe said to be exceedingly clever at shooting. 
 It is said that among these a young man, having chosen his 
 sweetheart, can only claim her as his bride when he has sent 
 an arrow through the lobe-hole in her ear at a certain 
 distance. On the day of the betrothal he has to show that he 
 is able to hit a strung bow-string with unerring accuracy. 
 
 1 2. Usmnbara, people of 
 
 Asambala, of Usambala fWasambaa, of Usambaa). 
 Abondeni, of Bondeni (Wabonde or Wabondei). 
 
 13. TJie European nations (Azungu, sing. Muzungu, of 
 Uzunguni) whose names as known in Gir)'ama are — ■ 
 
 Angereza, of Ungereza, English. 
 Adachi, of Udachi, Germans. 
 Afarasa, of Farasa, P'rench. 
 Arenu, of Renu, Portuguese. 
 
 14. Asiatics. 
 
 Ahindi, of Hindi (Wa-), Mohamedans from Hindostan. 
 Alabu (Sw, Mwalabu or Mulabu), of Manga ; also Walabu, 
 Ulabu ; Arabs.
 
 THE WA-GIRYAMA 617 
 
 Mabaniyani (Sw. Mwalabii or Mulabu) ; Pagans from llin- 
 dostan. 
 
 Mabulushi (Sw. Mwalabu or Mulabu) ; the Beluchi soldiers 
 at the coast. 
 
 The following include some of the best-known Trees and 
 Plants amongst the Wa-Gir}'ama — - 
 
 Andari, an enormous bulb, from 2 to 4 feet or more in 
 diameter, forming the centre of a thick bush of green thorns, 
 and itself covered with green knobs. Used, when hollowed 
 out, as a tank for storing water ; its flesh, as food for cattle ; 
 its infusion, as medicine for coughs. 
 
 Budzi, a herb ; used as kitchen stuff (mboga) with the main 
 article of food. 
 
 Chaa, a Euphorbia, 
 
 Choga, fungus ; used for food. 
 
 Chongwa, medicine for debility of infants. 
 
 Huyi (usually in plural, ma-), a lichen, the " orchella weed " 
 of commerce ; the powder is applied as a medicine to sores. 
 
 Jungu-moto ("hot-pot") ; a draught is made for facilitating 
 child-birth. 
 
 Kalumwa, the " calumba " of commerce ; a bitter stomachic 
 and febrifuge. 
 
 Kidunga-dunga ; the fruits cling to the cloths ; used as 
 kitchen stuff, for food ; and, medicinall}', for head disorders. 
 
 Kikwata, a thorny tree ; its leaves are used as poison for 
 rats. 
 
 Kilunga-kuku (" chicken-dressing "), the "turmeric" of com- 
 merce ; used in preparing savoury messes, and in medicine. 
 
 Kimbiri ; the roots are used as an antidote to the emetic 
 "mukazi" (see below), also as medicine for abdominal dropsy. 
 
 Kinuka-muhondo ; the fruit is eaten in debility. 
 
 Kirazi, the sweet potato. 
 
 Kiswenya, a herb ; kitchen stuff; also, medicinally, for 
 feverishness. 
 
 Kitozi, for making (wicker-work ?) doors ; also, medicinall)' 
 for diphtheria. 
 
 Kitsambare, herb used as kitchen stuff; said to be very 
 strengthening. 
 
 Kitsapu, a " Cycad." The heart of this palm-like tree is 
 cut into dice and subjected to soaking and dr}'ing for three 
 days, after which it may be pounded or ground and cooked 
 or baked. Both this and the fruit are resorted to in times 
 of famine. Unless carefully prepared it may cause fatal 
 diarrhoea and vomiting.
 
 6i8 APPENDIX A 
 
 Kivuma-inachi ('"bcc-hummcr"); herb used as kitchen stufT. 
 Komba, a herb ; the leaves resorted to in famine. 
 
 K(jnje-inala (pkir. makonje-mala) ; furnishes the fibre on 
 which necklaces are strung. 
 
 Koo ; produces a perfu^me used as a cosmetic ; it is said to 
 strengthen the body. 
 
 Kunde, small reddish beans. 
 
 Kunji, the wild turmeric ; the root is eaten in famine. 
 
 Loga-tsi, a herb used as kitchen stuff, for food. 
 
 Lurago, used as a flavour for food ; and said to be very 
 strengthening. 
 
 Luvumbane, leaves used for ear-ache. 
 
 Lwavi, a creeping plant with hair)' leaves that sting like a 
 nettle. 
 
 Mw-alaga-pala ("gazelle-slayer"), medicine for dropsy of 
 young children. 
 
 Mw-angane, a herb ; used as kitchen stuff, and considered 
 very nutritious. 
 
 Mw-are, used for making red d}-e. 
 
 Mw-atsa, a Euphorbia with large permanent leaves ; planted 
 round houses, etc., as a defence against the white ants ; the 
 wood is used for making spoons and pot-stirrers. 
 
 M'bagahulo, a tough wood. 
 
 M'balazi, a shrub producing the beans called " mbalazi " ; 
 Sw. mbaazi. 
 
 M'balazi wa tsaka-ni, forest plant resembling the preceding. 
 
 M'bamba-kofi, a tree ; produces large pods containing 
 pretty black and red seeds, used for ornaments ; the wood is 
 good for building purposes. 
 
 M'bate, for building. 
 
 M'belenga ; the infusion is used in diarrhoea, 
 
 M'bono, castor-oil plant or " palm-crist " ; the seeds, called 
 " mbono " (za), are boiled to extract the oil. The latter is 
 used as a cosmetic, and occasionally in cooking and medicine. 
 
 M'bono-koma, "castor-oil plant of the Shades," of which 
 the fruit produces an acrid oil, useful, externally, in fevers, as 
 also the infusion (of the fruit or leaves?). 
 
 M'bule-bule-mundu ("in vain the hatchet"?), a tall tree 
 with white wood ; the infusion is used for hnematuria, or 
 " blood in the urine." 
 
 Mu-chera-ngombe ; an infusion of the fruit is used as a 
 medicine in bronchitis. 
 
 Mu-chetwa-alongo ; the leaves are believed to act as a 
 restorative when rubbed over the bod)-. 
 
 Mu-dhandze ; roots used medicinally for pains in the head.
 
 THE WA-GIRYAM.\ 619 
 
 Mu-dimu, lime tree ; the fruit is used as a zest, and in 
 preparint;" j^ickles, and in medicine. 
 
 Mu - dimu - tsaka (" wild lime "), its fruit medicinal in 
 diarrhoea. 
 
 Mw-embe, the mango ; the fruit is used as kitchen stuff, and 
 preserved as chips dried in the sun. 
 
 Mw-engere, a herb, of which the leaves are used as kitchen 
 stuff, and in medicine as a hot compress in inflammations 
 (abscesses, etc.). 
 
 Mw-erekera, used as a " medicine " (charm) for ensuring 
 safety, etc. on a long journe}-. 
 
 Mu-fodzohi, a tree, used for making pot-stirrers and in 
 building, etc. 
 
 Mu-fudu-madzi, tree ; the light-coloured plum-like fruits 
 are very pleasant ivJien ripe. 
 
 Mu-fudu-unga, considered to be a variet)' of the preceding ; 
 it has dark, damson-like, somewhat insipid fruit. 
 
 Mu-funda, used for building purposes. 
 
 Mu-fune (Sterculia) ; when conveniently situated are felled 
 for bridges. 
 
 Mu-funga-tsandzu (" bough-binder "), used in constructing 
 stockades ; fruit edible. 
 
 Mu-furanje (" yaws tree "), medicinal for " furanje " (7. e. 
 " Frank disease," Sw. " buba "), prob. frambcesia ; hence its 
 name. 
 
 Mu-fwa, fruits are used as kitchen stuff. 
 
 Mu-gandamwa, fruit eaten ; an infusion is made from this 
 tree and used as a lotion in fevers with debilit}'. 
 
 Mu-ganga-lungo m'bomu, a vine with uneatable grapes 
 (ganga-lungo-ze). 
 
 Mu-godoma ; its wood is used for making hoe-handles. 
 
 Mu-golokolo, a creeper bearing disproportionately large 
 pods (3 feet long), called " ngolokolo " ; the latter are used 
 as rattles in dances (hence the name), and the seeds are 
 resorted to in famine. 
 
 Mu-gomba, banana and plantain trees. 
 
 M'guji ; the bark is used as a febrifuge. 
 
 M'gumo, the "borassus" palm ; the leaves are trimmed and 
 used as umbrellas, and the tree is sometimes tapped for its 
 toddy, and in famine-time is often cut down for the sake of 
 the heart of the green part. 
 
 M'gwale, wood used for making bows. 
 
 Mu-halanda, wood excellent for bedstead frames and 
 joinery. 
 
 Mu-hama, millet, or " Caffre " or " Turkish " corn.
 
 620 APPENDIX A 
 
 Mu-hcga-kululu, thorny acacia ; its thorns swell into nodules 
 at the base ; the latter become hollow and perforated, and 
 whistle in the wind ; hence its name, " Cry-trapper." 
 
 Mu-hingo, ebony ; used for making clubs, etc. 
 
 Mu-hiri-hiri, tree ; its red bark, pungent to the taste, useful 
 for its sustaining properties, for which the Masai carry it on 
 their raiding expeditions — a little piece or two in the water- 
 gourd. The infusion is a medicine for influenza. 
 
 Mu-howe, fruits are used internally as a medicine in dropsy. 
 
 Mw-ifwa. 
 
 Mu-kambi, furnishes a nutritious kitchen stuff. 
 
 Mu-kami, good for its shade. 
 
 Mu-kanju, " cashew " ; the apples may be eaten with salt 
 water, and the nuts roasted and peeled for eating. 
 
 Mu-kapo, lemon ; its fruits (ma-ka-po) are but poor in 
 Giryama. 
 
 Mu-kayu-kayu, for making doors. 
 
 Mu-kazi, furnishes a strong emetic. 
 
 Mu-kidigo, medicine for croup in infants. 
 
 Mu-kijego, Mu-kula-usiku, other names for preceding. 
 
 Mu-kindwi, wild date ; the dried fronds furnish fibre for 
 mats. 
 
 Mukingiri ; the roots are used medicinally for young children 
 with fever. 
 
 Mu-kipo ; the fruit is eaten. 
 
 Mu-kirindi, possesses a fine long grain, and is used for 
 knife-handles, etc. 
 
 Mu-kironda (" sore tree ") ; if the leaves are used fresh as 
 an application to a sore, they are said sometimes to heal it 
 within a couple of days. 
 
 M'kitsere. 
 
 M'kodongo ; the chips are said to poison fowls. 
 
 Mu-koko, mangrove ; makes good fuel. 
 
 Mu-koma, the HypJuviic tJicbaica. The fruits, which are 
 thought to resemble gingerbread in taste, may be gnawed for 
 food, and the shell within is carved to make snuff-boxes, 
 ferrules of hatchets, etc. The kernel inside all is powdered 
 for food in famines. 
 
 Mu-koma-manga (Arabian m'koma palm), pomegranate; 
 the infusion is used as a lotion or bath in " baridi," or 
 chill. 
 
 Mu-kone ; the fruit is edible. 
 
 Mu-kongoza, wild vine with edible fruit ; roots used as 
 medicine for anxmia and jaundice (" safura "). 
 
 Mu-kuha, the fruit used in famine.
 
 THE WA-GIRYAMA 621 
 
 Mu-kula-usiku ("every evening"), a name for the "m'kijego," 
 q. V. 
 
 Mu-kulu, fruit edible. 
 
 Mu-kunibaku, tobacco ; for snuff, chewing, and, more rarely, 
 smoking. 
 
 Mu-kuna-mbavva, a jungle tree ; its white wood is useful. 
 
 Mu-kuwa, for making brooms. 
 
 M'kwaju, tamarind : used as zest for food and to make 
 l^ckles, also for cooling drinks. 
 
 M'kwakwa, bael ? The makwakwa are eaten. 
 
 Mu-kwala-fisi, a jocular name for any tree with awkward 
 roots ; " hyena-tripper " ; a fortiori^ a " man-tripper." 
 
 Mu-kwala-paka, " cat-tripper " ; cf preceding. 
 
 Mu-kwamba ; this tree furnishes a charm for journeys. 
 
 Mu-kwembe, edible fruit ; wood furnishes knife-handles. 
 
 M'lala, the dwarf-palm ; the leaves, when split, are used 
 for making cord, mats, frails, and native needles. 
 
 M'lala-piri ; the leaves are ground up and used as an 
 application to sores. 
 
 Mu-lungu, for making doors. 
 
 Mu-mahi, the sticks used for building purposes. 
 
 Mu-mangira, fruit edible. 
 
 M'-nago, fruit edible. 
 
 M'-navu, leaves boiled for kitchen stuff. 
 
 M'nazi, coco-nut palm ; comparatively scarce in Giryama 
 proper. The unripe nut is brought from long distances in 
 times of drought for the sake of its " milk." The ripe nut 
 furnishes a cream used in cooking, and the shells are made 
 into ladles for water, etc. The plaited leaves form " mkandza," 
 used for roofing, party walls, etc. 
 
 M'ngambo ; the fruit is resorted to in famine. 
 
 M'ngambo-kapehe, variety of preceding. 
 
 M'ngazija, MmiiJiot utilissima, cassava, Sw. m'hogo. 
 
 M'nya-dzua, fruit edible. 
 
 M'nyumbu, bark used like that of the Mu-hiri-hiri, q.v. 
 
 M'mongolo (or m'ongolo ?), the copal tree ; the semi- 
 fossil gum (m'ongolo) is dug up and sold to the Hindi 
 merchants. 
 
 M'orya, gutta-percha or indiarubber? the fruit is edible. 
 
 Mu-papayu, the papaw ; fruit very plentiful in the season. 
 
 Mu-papayu-mulume, the male papaw ; an infusion of the 
 rootlets is used for blood in the urine, etc. 
 
 Mu-pawa, a bean ; the large seeds (mapawa) are in esteem 
 as kitchen stuff 
 
 Mu-pera, the guava ; scarce in Giryama proper.
 
 622 APPENDIX A 
 
 M'pigizo ; the steam of a hot infusion of the leaves is said 
 to be good in painful ophthalmia. 
 
 M'pili-pili, red pepper ; pounded with salt, is used as a con- 
 diment ; also an ingredient in pickles and various medicines. 
 
 M'porojo ; the wood of this tree is used for making the 
 sheaths of swords, etc. 
 
 Mu-i:)upu, produces a smaller bean than the mupawa, q. v. 
 
 M'rabu, the pumpkin plant ; the fruits are much esteemed as 
 kitchen stuff. 
 
 M'rihi, tall handsome tree with small leaves ; it furnishes a 
 medicine for hemicrania. 
 
 Mu-rimbo, yields bird-lime, 
 
 M'sasa ; the leaves of this large shrub serve all the purposes 
 of sand-paper ; the wood, when merely licked, is said to be 
 medicinal for fever. 
 
 Mu-sasakwa ; the leaves are said to be good for headache. 
 
 Mu-sendze; the sweet wood is prepared as a food in famine. 
 
 M'shinda-alume, shrub ; very tough and supple. 
 
 M'shondohera-nguluwe ; the greenish-drab flowers fill the 
 surrounding air with stench (hence the name). 
 
 M'siswi, a thorny jungle tree. 
 
 Mu-tulama-kwalala ; the heavy wood is used for making 
 the " kipungu," ia sort of defensive weapon for parrying sword- 
 cuts, shaped like the head of a pick-axe. 
 
 M'tanda-mboo ; medicinal for discharges from the urinary 
 organs. 
 
 M'tanga, the " incense tree," producing gum used for fumi- 
 gation by the Giryamas. 
 
 Mu-tola-mandzi (?). See Alu-tulama-andzi-e. 
 
 Mu-tsami ("sweet-tasted") ; fruit edible. 
 
 Mu-tsedzi ; the fruits are eaten in famine. 
 
 Mu-tsengezi ; the fruit is said to be much liked by goats. 
 
 Mu-tserere ; fruit edible ; and the root is carried as " medi- 
 cine " on a journey. 
 
 M'-tsoma-pengo, fleshy-leaved ivy-like creeper ; is applied 
 to the teeth to stop bleeding after the operation of chipping, 
 hence its name, " stick-in-the-notch-tree." 
 
 M'tsodza-gunga (lit. " ornamental -skin -scar," or tattoo 
 tree) ; used medicinally, the pith for bronchitis, the roots 
 for sores. 
 
 Mu'tsunga, a sort of bitter spinach ; one of the most common 
 "mboga," kitchen stuffs, for the wari or porridge. 
 Mu-tsungula ; the fruits are edible. 
 
 Mu-tulama-andzi-e, a parasitic plant with red flower, hence 
 its name (which may be applied to any parasite).
 
 IHE WA-GIRYAMA 623 
 
 Mu-tunguru ; resorted to in famines. 
 
 Mu-ungo, the Landolphia, indiarubber vine ; the juice is 
 collected and sold. 
 
 Mu-vundza-kondo (" battle-breaker "), a spell for ensuring 
 a good journey ; the roots are powdered and sprinkled on the 
 ground before starting, 
 
 Mu-vundza-rere, ropy creepy with soft green stem and 
 minute leaves (where any), with large rose-and-white waxy 
 scented flowers ; the stem resembles the " vundza-rere " snake 
 — hence probably its name. 
 
 Mu-wuu ; the leaves are medicinal for stomach complaints. 
 
 Mu-zahe ; furnishes bark-bonds. 
 
 Mu-zhongwa. 
 
 Mu-zimiri ; roots used for influenza and catarrhs. 
 
 Ndago (perhaps plur. of lurago ?), " Cyperi " or sedges ; the 
 scented roots of one variety are given for pains in the stomach. 
 
 Ndiko, ground-orchids ; a variety produces a fine varnish 
 used for the barb-ends of arrow-shafts. 
 
 Ndogo, underground nuts (?), used in famines. 
 
 Ngulumbo, a grain or fruit used in famines. 
 
 Nyasi (plur.) grass. 
 
 Ria (plur. ma-), enormous block-like bulbous plants, some- 
 what resembling the andari, but less symmetrical, and devoid 
 of the bush-like growth and thorns of that plant. An infusion 
 of the bulb is given for diarrhoea. 
 
 Talakosha ; kitchen stuff, said to be strengthening. 
 
 Totola ; an infusion of the leaves is given in neuralgic (?) 
 diseases. 
 
 Utsungu (muhi wa), the tree from which the Wa-Kamba 
 prepare their arrow-poison (utsungu).
 
 APPENDIX B 
 
 REPORTS AND VALUATIONS OX EAST 
 AFRICAN PRODUCTS. 
 
 Aloes 
 
 . p. 624 
 
 Jute 
 
 ../. 648 
 
 Bcertoax 
 
 626 
 
 Kapok {tree cotton) 
 
 .. 648 
 
 Castor-oil seed 
 
 626 
 
 Maize 
 
 .. 648 
 
 Coffee 
 
 627 
 
 Orchella weed 
 
 •■ 649 
 
 Coir {coco-nut fibre) 
 
 629 
 
 Olive cultivation . . . 
 
 649 
 
 Copra 
 
 632 
 
 Ostrich feathers . . . 
 
 650 
 
 Cotton 
 
 634 
 
 Rice 
 
 650 
 
 Cotton- seed ... 
 
 640 
 
 Simsim or sesame 
 
 .. 651 
 
 Dari {iiietainah or millet) . . 
 
 641 
 
 Skins 
 
 .. 651 
 
 Ebony 
 
 641 
 
 7\^bacco 
 
 .. 651 
 
 Gum Arabic 
 
 641 
 
 Wheat and barley 
 
 - 653 
 
 Ground-nuts 
 
 642 
 
 Various samples broug 
 
 ht 
 
 Gum-copal ... 
 
 642 
 
 home by the Mombas 
 
 a- 
 
 Indiarubber 
 
 642 
 
 Uganda Railway Sun 
 
 cy 653 
 
 ALOE AND OTHER FIBRES. 
 
 Vahiatiou. '■'• London, July 1890. 
 
 '' Aloe fibre. — A. Rather short, but strong; we think might 
 be used for titon Manilla hemp purposes ; if so about £2.\ to 
 £2^^ per ton. 
 
 "i>. Brown, but strong, and longer — ^22 to £2}, ; but for 
 other purposes perhaps ^'15 to iJ^20. 
 
 " C. More like usual aloe fibre, but short ; market for aloe 
 fibre very dull — £16 to i^20." 
 
 S(X)isei 'ieria Gii iiieeusis. 
 Report. "■ Oclobcr \^(^o. 
 
 " 256 lbs. in 7 bales, but little cleaned ; mixed, coloured ; 
 should be white ; badly packed, being in coils. Value, about 
 £\2 iz^s. od. per ton. This fibre is quite a no\elty, and if 
 properly done, it might fetch ^^"25 per ton." 
 
 The seven bales were sold the following month, realizing 
 £\'/ per ton. 
 
 624
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 625 
 
 Air. Christie on East African Fibres. 
 
 " IDE AND Christie, 
 
 " Fibre, Esparto, and General Produce Brokers. 
 
 " 72 Mark Lane, London, E.C. 
 "■May 25, 1897. 
 
 " Dear Mr. FitzGerald, 
 
 " With regard to Fibres I have read your remarks 
 with interest. It is somewhat unfortunate that the market 
 values of what are technically called ' white hemps ' (Manilla, 
 Sisal, Mauritius, and New Zealand) have gone steadily and 
 persistently downward during the last three years, and now 
 stand at a very low level. The prices to-day offer no en- 
 couragement to new enterprise, and perhaps in your reference 
 to the values we placed on Satisevieria ten years ago this fact 
 may be lost sight of, and some misconception arise. 
 
 " The following will show the depreciation that has gone on 
 since 1887 — 
 
 May 1887. May 1892. May 1897. 
 
 Manilla hemp ^31 10^. £2?> £\$ i^s. per ton. 
 
 Sisal hemp ^^32 £2^, £1^ „ „ 
 
 Mauritius hemp ... ^29 ;^2i ;i<l'2i „ „ 
 
 New Zealand hemp ^^29 £ig £14 „ „ 
 
 " As the market value of Sansevieria fibre would be entirely 
 governed by the prices ruling for the recognized hemps above- 
 mentioned, I would suggest that you should make your 
 readers fully aware of what these v^alues are at the present 
 time. Moreover, it would be hazardous to predict any return 
 to the market values of the past. The development of new 
 countries, improved methods of treatment and facilities are all 
 tending to cheapen commodities ; and with regard to fibres, the 
 introduction and establishment in market estimates of any- 
 thing new is rendered increasingly difficult by the cheapness 
 of those already known and in long industrial use. 
 
 " Although Sansevieria has been known to us for many 
 years, yet, with the exception of small parcels from India and 
 Ceylon, sold under the name of ' Moorva ' fibre, no trade has 
 ever been done in it of late years ; even these small consign- 
 ments have ceased. The suggestion I made to you last week, 
 that the most effective way of determining its value is to send 
 five tons home for sale, is, I think, by far the best. Native 
 labour and methods may well be employed, and the aim 
 should be to produce a fibre of good length, and as white as 
 
 S s
 
 626 APPENDIX 15 
 
 possible. While small samples are good enough to enable 
 an opinion to be formed of the merits of Sansevieria, it is 
 absolutel}' necessary that a merchantable quantity be put on 
 the market before its real place and class amongst fibres can 
 be ascertained. ]^ut the English grower must recognize that 
 values are very low, and that at first Sansevicria may probably 
 not attain its full price, because as a commercial article it is 
 practically unknown meantime. 
 
 " Ramie. — I am afraid that for some time at least this need 
 not be more than mentioned. Many processes have been 
 started, and one or two of them give promise of cheapening 
 the production ; but the schemes are too tentative for any 
 accurate judgment to be given on their merits. 
 
 " Pineapple fibre. — The extraction of the fibre from the 
 leaves is a slow and difficult one, and the }'ield is very small. 
 I doubt if this would be worth attention. . . . 
 
 " Believe me, 
 
 " Yours very faithfully, 
 "{Signed) John Christie." 
 
 BEESWAX. 
 Broker's Report. " October 1890. 
 
 " The sample appears good, and if equal to sample would 
 at present bring about £^ per cwt., but it must be run into 
 blocks and kept as clean as present sample ; the blocks might 
 weigh 10, 12, or 15 lbs. . . . We advise }'our getting some 
 sent over in nice square blocks or saucer-shape, and send at 
 first a few cwts. on trial." 
 
 CASTOR-OIL SEED. 
 Valuations. " London, January 1 89 1 . 
 
 No. I. "Castor-oil Seed. — This is reported as of good 
 quality, and on the spot here would sell at about ^10 per ton." 
 
 " Ghisgow, August 1 89 1. 
 
 No. 2. "No. I. — Dark seed, medium size, not desirable seed. 
 The amount of oil to be got out of it must be very small, and 
 we could not put a value on it. Probably none of our crushers 
 would buy it. 
 
 " A'^o. 2. — White seed, large size, fair quality ; value to-day 
 £cf $s., if sound, delivered Glasgow. 
 
 "N^o. 3. — Dark seed, small size. Fair quality so far as can 
 be judged from so small a sample ; value about £g per ton."
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 627 
 
 COFFEE.i 
 
 Reports. '■'■November 1891. 
 
 No. I. " I bag African coffee, looks like Cassenga of extra 
 good quality, but mixed with a {q.\v blacks ; value in bulk about 
 JOS. per cwt. We think the coffee would find a ready sale." 
 
 " We are now pleased to advise your sample bag of coffee 
 was sold yesterday at (32s. per cwt." 
 
 " September 1 892. 
 No. 2. " We have examined the sample of African coffee in 
 the cherry, and find it is African Cassenga. It appears to be 
 of very good quality, but it is rather difficult to judge from this 
 sample, as we think it has suffered through not having been 
 properly dried and prepared. The spot value properly husked 
 and picked is to-day 60s. per cwt., but in the cherry it has 
 little or no value in the market." 
 
 I reproduce here, by kind permission of The Tijncs, a very 
 important as well as interesting letter from Mr. J, Ferguson, 
 of the Ceylon Observer and Tropical Agriculturist, on " The 
 Production of Coffee and Tea in British Dependencies," pub- 
 lished in The Times of June i, 1896. 
 
 TJie P^'odtiction of Coffee and Tea in British Dependencies. 
 
 To THE Editor of TJie Times. 
 
 " Sir, — There is a great deal of misapprehension current 
 in reference to our old Ceylon staple, coffee, its production 
 and price, which, with your permission, I should like to 
 correct. The other day. Lord Stanley of Alderley, addressing 
 the House of Lords, included ' coffee ' in his list of products 
 suffering from depreciation of price, although, for the past 
 eight years at least, coffee has been pre-eminently the tropical 
 product which, contrary to the theory of bimetallists, has not 
 only maintained but increased its gold value in the markets 
 of the world. Thus, in 1889, the lowest and highest quota- 
 tions for middling plantation coffee in London were gis. and 
 I02.<-., and they have not since fallen below that figure, while 
 for 1895 the range was lOOs. to loys., and there is little 
 difference this year. This is due to the fact that production 
 
 ^ For Report on Uganda Coftce, see below, p. 654.
 
 628 
 
 APPENDIX B 
 
 has not kept pace with the demand for the continent of 
 luirope and North America ; and yet here, again, a curious 
 niisapprclicnsion prevails as to there beinc^ an intimate risk of 
 the over-ijroduction of coffee, as of tea. Thus, at the recent 
 reading of a paper before the Royal Colonial Institute, on 
 ' The Development of Tropical Africa,' by Sir George Baden- 
 Powell, in the discussion that followed. Dr. Morris of Kew 
 stated that ' in the regular cultivation of coffee, cacao, cotton, 
 kola, and fruit, West Africa has a great future before it.' 
 And in describing the coffee industry in the Nyasa Hill 
 district (British Central Africa), I made the remark — -'The 
 chief staple, coffee, is one of which there is no fear of over- 
 production at present.' Nevertheless, the chairman (Sir R. 
 W. Herbert), in summing up and referring to tropical pro- 
 ducts, said — ' It is desirable as far as possible to seek for new 
 staples, rather than to crowd the markets with ordinary 
 produce, like tea and coffee, which seem in danger of being 
 over-produced.' 
 
 " Sir Robert Herbert is correct as regards tea, but he has 
 overlooked the great falling-off in the production of coffee 
 within the British dependencies during the past sixteen years. 
 This has been mainly due to the terrible effects of the fungus 
 enemy on the coffee of Ceylon, a great part of Southern 
 India (and even of Java). Without going into details, let me 
 venture to give approximate and contrasting estimates of 
 coffee exports from British dependencies. 
 
 
 
 Maximum annual 
 
 export, 1 6 to i8 
 
 years ago. 
 
 Estimate for 1896. 
 
 Ceylon 
 
 South India 
 
 West Indies 
 
 Straits and North Borneo 
 
 Cwt. 
 1,100,000 
 450,000 
 I 50,000' 
 
 Cwt. 
 
 50,000 
 
 240,000 
 
 80,000 
 
 30,000 
 
 
 Total ... 
 
 1,700,000 
 
 400,000 
 
 " This indicates a woful deficiency, and I see no prospect 
 of more than a very limited increase for many }'ears in the 
 ab(n'c dependencies. I am free to confess that at the same time 
 lira/.il has maintained and even increased its large production 
 
 ' "The West Indies attained their maximum early in this century, Dr. 
 Morris tellin^'^ me that Jamaica alone exported 260,000 cwt. of coffee in 
 1805, while other islands — Barbadocs, Antigua, Dominica, Montserrat, 
 St. Kitts, and the Virgin Islands— made up as much more, or say from 
 500,000 cwt. to 600,000 cwt. as the maximum about 90 years ago."
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 629 
 
 of coffee ; but this has been counterbalanced by the notable 
 falling-off in the crops of Java and Netherlands India Ljener- 
 ally ; and were it not that xAmerican and European capitalists 
 have been developing coffee plantations in Mexico and 
 Central America (Guatemala, Costa Rica, etc.), the consuming 
 markets would have been barely supplied. The continued 
 high price has, indeed, encouraged Ce)'lon tea-planters to 
 invest surplus capital in a new coffee district in East Java ; 
 while I am aware that city capitalists are looking to foreign 
 states in South and Central America for coffee investments. 
 
 " Surely, then, experiments in coffee cultivation ma)- well 
 be encouraged in the British divisions of Africa (as well as in 
 the Malayan Peninsula, North Borneo, etc.), and more especi- 
 ally in British Central Africa, under Sir Harry Johnston's 
 enlightened administration. The first limited company for 
 coffee cultivation in Nyasaland was formed a year ago in 
 Ceylon by planters and merchants, whose manager, now hard 
 at work opening up a plantation, gives an encouraging report 
 of his prospects in labour supply, crop, etc. 
 
 " It will be a long time, however, before such enterprise or 
 any other enterprise at present within British territory, can 
 seriously affect the coffee market ; and I see no early prospect, 
 in any other quarter, of an over-production of coffee. The 
 case is rather different with tea, in view of the large areas 
 planted and still being opened in India and Ceylon. The 
 export of tea from India has steadily risen, year by year 
 — 2,250,000 lbs. in 1861-62, until the estimate for 1896-97 is 
 144,000,000 lbs. In the case of Ceylon, we began with 23 lbs. 
 export (twenty-three years ago) in 1873, and for 1896 the 
 official estimate of total export is 102,000,000 lbs. 
 
 " I am. Sir, yours truly, 
 
 "J. Ferguson." 
 
 Royal Colonial Institute^ Northumberland Avenue^ London^ IV.C. 
 
 COIR (COCO-NUT FIBRE). 
 
 Valuation on 5 pkgs. Coir Fibre. " April 1891. 
 
 " Internally damp, partly cleaned, little husky, mixed colour. 
 Value, £,\o per ton. If properly cleaned and dried before 
 shipment, would probably realize iJ^iS per ton." 
 
 Report on the Samples from Patta Island, broiigJit /tome by 
 
 Mr. Fit z Gerald. 
 " Coir Fibre, poor, dirty, dull. Sound, value per ton, ^^"4. 
 " Coir Yarn, poor, dark colour gencrall}-, fair make, but 
 somewhat irregular. Sound, value per ton, ^13 to ^^^14."
 
 630 APPENDIX B 
 
 SuggcslioNS by an lixperl luritlen for the uifonnatioji of the 
 l.B.E.A. Co. 
 
 " It" (coir fibre) "is made in India and Ce>lun during the 
 .sj)are time of the women and chikh'cn of famihes of small 
 cultivators, who exchange the produce for rice and other 
 necessaries with the small sho[)keeper. The value of the 
 fibre varies according to colour and fineness — say from £(^ 
 to ;^i8 in London. 
 
 " The process is this — The husks are taken off the mats, and 
 steeped in ponds from two to four months to rot off the sub- 
 stance that binds the fibres together. When this stage is 
 reached, the husks are beaten on a wooden block with a good- 
 sized ' beetle.' 
 
 " This work is done beside water, so that the refuse can be 
 washed off readily as the fibre yields to the beating. It is 
 then dried (in the shade, if possible), and at once picked over 
 to shake out the remainder of the refuse, which is like corky 
 sawdust, and remove the discoloured fibre to bring the colour 
 as near as possible to that of pale, clean straw. It should 
 see as little of the light as possible, as exposure turns the 
 colour a reddish-brown, and enormously depreciates its value. 
 When picked clean and quite dry, it should be baled in a 
 hydraulic press and shipped home. ... If it should be decided 
 to work the stuff — and perhaps make it into yarn and rope, 
 which ought to be much needed in Africa — I'll be glad to get 
 you an expert from India to teach the African all about this 
 industry." 
 
 The Coir Fibre Industry on the West Coast of SoutJicrn India. 
 
 The following extract shows how a prosperous and extensive 
 trade in the Coir Fibre industry has been built up in Southern 
 India — 
 
 " Within the last twenty years a vast extension of the 
 economic uses to which this valuable fibre is put has taken 
 place. The term 'coir' usually applied to this material is the 
 Anglicized form of the South Indian ' tayarn,' cord or twine, 
 and not applied in India to the raw fibre, which is called in 
 the Tamil language ' savuri.' The fibrous husk or rind of 
 the coco-nut is easily stripped from the nut while yet green 
 by striking it on the ]X)int of an iron si)ike, and is then 
 steeped in salt or brackish water, where it lies for several 
 months, until the softer portions of the husk rot away and 
 the strong fibre alone remains. This is taken out, beaten
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 631 
 
 with a stick to separate and clean the fibre, and hoisted with 
 the required number of strands into rope, or woven into 
 matting, while the stiffer fibres are made into brushes and 
 other articles of domestic utility. 
 
 "The fibre is pressed for shipping into bales weighing 
 200 lbs. each. The attempt has been made to prepare the 
 fibre from the dried husk in England, but without success. 
 
 " Much of the coir fibre used in England is brought from 
 Ceylon ; but a large and increasing quantity is now exported 
 from Bombay and the Western Coast of India. The supply is 
 not inexhaustible, but as prices rise cultivation is encouraged, 
 and as the growth of the palm is along the sea-coast where 
 other crops cannot be grown, the trade is a profitable one. 
 Factories for the weaving of coir-matting have been opened 
 up by English and American firms at Alleppy, Ouilon, 
 Colachel, Cochin, etc., and turn out a considerable quantity 
 of goods. Spinning is not attempted here, being more cheaply 
 done by hand at the places where the fibre is produced. 
 Along the coasts of the backwaters and canals many people 
 may now be seen busily engaged in scraping and cleaning the 
 fibre and twisting it into yarn. In the factories the yarn is 
 first sorted to its various shades and qualities. The warp is 
 made by boys running backwards and forwards, then it is 
 flattened and smoothed for weaving by being run through 
 heavy rollers. The weaving is laborious work, performed by 
 men, who earn two or three rupees a week at it. The web 
 is again rolled to give it some finish, wound securely in a roll 
 and marked. Large profits have been made in this manufacture 
 in India. But it can now be carried on so much better in 
 England, with the machinery and appliances available there, 
 that large quantities of the yarn are exported. 
 
 " One firm in Lancashire have introduced steam-loom 
 weaving of this material. The various shades of fibre— cream- 
 coloured, reddish-brown, and blackish — -which vary greatly 
 according to care and skill in preparation, are first carefully 
 separated, and coco-nut matting is now made of fine quality 
 with pretty shades of colour, and in pleasing patterns, so as 
 to be available for higher uses than the very coarse makes, 
 and the material is most durable. The yarn is also plaited 
 by machinery into cinnet or belting; labels made of coir bear 
 exposure to salt water better than anj'thing else, the tannin 
 which it contains preventing the fibre from rotting; they are 
 exceedingly light and buoyant as well as clastic. Even the 
 refuse and broken coir can be turned to account for stuffing mat- 
 tresses, and is used in horticulture, as no animal will touch it.
 
 632 APPENDIX B 
 
 " The exports from Travancore of this material form a large 
 proportion of the trade of the district, and amounted in 1 879-82 
 to nearly 150,000 cvvt., valued at 13I lacs of rupees (say 
 ^130,290 sterling), and paying to the Government 68,000 
 rupees. Of the coco-nuts themselves, nearly 9,000,000, valued 
 at nearly 260,900 rupees, were sent away. Other products of 
 this palm exported, as oil and copra, or dried kernel, were 
 valued, the former at 322,100 rupees, and the latter at no less 
 than 26i lacs of rupees, making a total value of the exports 
 of products of the coco-nut palm from Travancore alone of 
 464 lacs of rupees (nearly half a million). Some thousands 
 of tons are also exported from Cochin. That trade is certainly 
 very profitable to India. — India jllercuiy."'^ 
 
 COPRA. 
 Broker's Report on Copra from Magarini Plantations. 
 
 ''October 1892. 
 
 " We are now able to report on the sample parcels of East 
 African copra, ex Malda — Mombasa. 
 
 " 235 bags. — Excepting Cochin, we have rarely seen finer 
 copra. The nut is of great beauty and thickness and well- 
 matured, and the quality is fine. It is also well sun-dried, and 
 fairly clean and suitable in every way. Still there is a certain 
 amount of 'weevly' dust in the cups, as per the small sample 
 herewith (which please open carefully;. Also here and there, 
 there are a few pieces of dried and shrunken copra. After 
 considerable trial of the market (first bids we got being only 
 ;^I3 5i-.), we sold this parcel at £\i\ 5.$". per ton, London landed, 
 terms as per contract No. 81. No doubt a higher price would 
 have been got for a parcel of 200 to 300 tons, as these small 
 lots never fetch the full value. This fine copra is used on the 
 Continent, not for oil, but for the manufacture of margarine, 
 and it goes to one of the best mills. It always remains to be 
 seen how the percentage of oil or fat compares with Cochin, 
 and this we shall let you know later on." Please note that 
 this quality is suitable for the north of Europe only, being 
 too good for the Marseilles soap-oil. We could readil)' get 
 through 3000 to 4000 tons a year to London or Hamburg 
 alone — in fact, there is no limit almost to the outlet." - 
 
 ' Extract from Messrs. A. M. iS: J. Ferguson's Coco-nut Cultivation. 
 ^ "The crushing has resulted favourably, giving 64 per cent, of oil, 
 and we are well satisfied witii the c|uaiity.''" — December 30, 1893.
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 633 
 
 Quotations from Broker s Reports. 
 
 " Scptt'inbcr 1 893. 
 "We have sold your copra at i^i6 per ton." 
 
 '''' January 1895. 
 " 1 50 Bags. — F'air merchantable, sun-dried, very broken, 
 value. ^^"13 per ton. The market at present is very flat." 
 
 Mr. Weaver s remarks on Coco-nut Gultivation on the Magarini 
 
 Plantations. 
 
 " Coco-nuts. — For ploughing I purchased fourteen oxen. 
 These I trained to the yoke, and very hard work I found it, 
 for I was far from being an expert in such matters. I then 
 taught ' Giryama,' a native, and also a couple of Soudanese 
 to plough. I had much trouble with the men, but after some 
 time we were able to plough about an acre of ground per 
 day. When the oxen and men were trained, we ploughed up 
 the land in between the rows of coco-nut trees, and at the 
 same time planted ground-nuts in every other furrow ; when 
 these were well grown we ploughed them under for green 
 manure. We got over a lot of ground in this way, when 
 unfortunately the oxen died, and we were at a standstill 
 again. We then purchased four camels, and found that these 
 did very well. One camel was able to draw one of Ransome's 
 ploughs, and we could turn over about one acre and a quarter 
 a day, using two camels and two ploughs. 
 
 "At the commencement of 1895 ^^^ built a barbicue or 
 drying-floor. This was 100 feet long and 35 feet wide, and was 
 built of concrete, and plastered over with a mixture of lime 
 (coral) and sugar prepared from the sap of the coco-nut tree. 
 This floor was large enough to hold 6000 nuts, and it kept 
 the kernels very clean. 
 
 " I employed natives to husk the nuts. There is a class of 
 men who are very expert at this work. The rate of pay for 
 husking was one rupee per thousand nuts husked. Many of 
 the men were able to earn one rupee per day. Men who 
 were not accustomed to the work would only husk from fifty 
 to one hundred nuts per day, and would then be unable to 
 work again for some days, owing to sore hands. 
 
 " When the nuts were husked they were broken into halves, 
 and laid in the sun for the kernels to dry. After four days 
 they would be sufficiently dry to allow the kernels to be 
 separated from the shells. The kernels were then allowed
 
 634 AI'l'ENDIX B 
 
 to dry thoroughly for some six days, and were then cut into 
 small pieces, and packed into ba<js and sent to the coast for 
 shipment to I'Lngland. 
 
 " The various owners of plantations in the neighbourhood 
 watched my experiments with much interest, and I have every 
 reason to believe that they were satisfied that I was amply 
 repaid for the trouble and extra expense, and I noticed that 
 many of them were paying more attention to their own trees." 
 
 COTTON. 
 
 Broke/ s Report. '■'■London^ October 1892. 
 
 ''African Cotton. — Good colour, rather leafy, some shell. 
 The staple is rough, rather harsh and irregular, and has been 
 cut in ginning, the sample showing a good deal of nepe. 
 Value, about 3^^. to A^d. per lb." 
 
 Extract from Administrators Letter to the Directors 
 I. B. E. A. Co. 
 
 " Motiibasd, January 1 892. 
 " Mr. Rogers writes as follows, referring to a sample sent to 
 Lamu for shipment to London — ■ 
 
 ' The crop has been a success, and I am endeavouring 
 
 to persuade natives to cultivate the same, as the 
 
 soil of Witu appears to be peculiarly adapted to 
 
 the growth of this plant.' 
 
 " I am sending Mr. Rogers a supply of ' Sea Island ' seed, 
 
 which appears to do well here." 
 
 Cotton in Witu District. 
 
 " Chamber of Commerce., 
 
 " Manchester., fu>ic 2, 1 893. 
 
 "Dear Sir, 
 
 " The small sample of cotton referred to in your letter 
 of May 26 was submitted to the Chamber in February 1892, 
 by a former Manchester merchant, Mr. Francis Amos, of 
 Windermere, who received it from Bishop Tucker. It was 
 examined by an expert. 
 
 " The cotton was grown at Witu, apparentl)' from Eg>'ptian 
 seed, and was exceedingly fine, the staple being of fair length 
 and strength. Prices were very low at that time, and it was 
 valued at jd. per lb. It would rank here as 'Sea Island 
 Substitute,' and would bring a relativel)' high price whenever 
 'Sea Island' might happen to be scarce. Recently I had an 
 interview with a gentleman, Mr. R. J. D. Macallister, who I
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 635 
 
 understand has been, or is, in the employ of your Company. 
 He knew the plantation on which the sample forwarded b)- 
 Bishop Tucker was grown. , The particulars given to me by 
 him as to the cost of producing cotton near Lamu, not Witu, 
 are summarized in a paragraph of our MontJily Record 
 (p. 125), of which I will send you to-morrow a copy. I shall 
 be glad to answer any questions you may desire to ask, as far 
 as I can. 
 
 " Faithfully yours, 
 
 "Elijah Helm, 
 
 "Thk Secrf:tarv, Secretary. 
 
 " Imperial Britisti East African Company, 
 
 " 2, Pall Mall East, London, S. IV." 
 
 Extract from tJie Manchester Chamber of Commerce Monthly Record, 
 May 31, 1893, on Cotton Growing in British East Africa. 
 
 " Particulars were presented to the Board of the results 
 of cotton-growing on a small plantation of 200 acres at 
 Witu, in British East Africa. Samples of the cotton pro- 
 duced on this estate were submitted to the Chamber in 
 February 1892, and it was found to be of a quality ranking 
 as Sea Island substitute. The particulars which had been 
 received showed that the yield was at the rate of 400 lbs. 
 per acre. The plant is not killed during the winter, and 
 produces abundantly for three years in succession. The 
 climate during the growing and picking seasoji is char- 
 acterized by intervals of moderate rain-fall, and appears to be 
 free from incidents injurious to the plant. Labour is cheap, 
 abundant, and efficient, and it is stated that at the current 
 rate of wages for field labourers, immigrants from India can 
 be easily obtained. The figures presented indicate that cotton- 
 growing in this part of British East Africa is v^ery profitable." 
 
 Broker's Report on Samples of Cotton brought home by 
 Mr. FilsGerahl 
 
 "To THE Secretary, 
 
 ^^ Imperial British East African Co., Ltd., 
 " London, S. W. 
 
 '•^November 1893. 
 
 "Sir, 
 
 " Referring to our letter of the 4th inst., we beg to 
 advise having carefully examined the samples which you 
 have kindl)' sent us, and send herewith a formal valuation 
 and report on same ; same being, of course, rather guess-work, 
 especially with reference to the unginned cotton, because
 
 636 
 
 APPENDIX 1} 
 
 cotton in the seed we are never called upon to handle here; 
 Ljenerally speaking, it appears to us that the Sea Island 
 cotton has been the most successful, and it would be interest- 
 ing to know exactly as to whence the supply of seed for 
 4A and 4B was obtained, so as to judge whether the differ- 
 ence of quality is caused by the question of the seed, or by 
 the land on which the two lots were grown. The Upland 
 cottons apjjear to us to have been grown in too dry a 
 situation, and they would probably be benefited by irrigation 
 so as to produce a smoothness and oiliness of staple." 
 
 Valuation of Suiidiy Samples of Co/ton. 
 Account of the Imperial British East Africa Company^ Limited. 
 
 Mark. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Price. 
 
 Classification, etc. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 From plantation 
 
 \id. 
 
 Bright, clean, and good staple. 
 
 
 near Mombasa. 
 
 
 but irregular with peculiar 
 elastic strength ; too irregular 
 in length to value satisfactorily ; 
 say average 4|^/. per lb. if 
 classed out. 
 
 Nos. 2 
 
 (2) Native short- 
 
 3hl. 
 
 Very poor stuff, dull, rough, un- 
 
 and 5. 
 
 stapled cotton, 
 
 
 even, and native ginning bad. 
 
 
 from Mattaroni 
 
 
 probably worth 3W. per 11). 
 
 
 Coast-land, north 
 
 
 
 
 of Lamu. 
 
 
 
 
 (5) Ditto, cleaned 
 
 
 
 
 by native ginning 
 
 
 
 
 machine. 
 
 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Very small sample 
 
 
 Quite unable to value, but ap- 
 
 
 of Uplands from 
 
 
 pears like No. 2. 
 
 
 Witu District. 
 
 
 
 No. 4a. 
 
 Sea Island from 
 
 \2d. 
 
 A decided success ; very fine 
 
 
 Shaka, Witu 
 
 
 staple, and good length and 
 
 
 District. 
 
 
 strength, but will require a 
 special gin, and seed will have 
 to be renewed from Carolinas 
 very frequently to maintain 
 strength and length ; worth 
 generally about i id. per lb. 
 
 No. 41 . 
 
 Ditto. Ditto. 
 
 
 Similar to last, but inferior in 
 
 
 
 
 length, strength, and appearance. 
 
 Report on Samples of Mattaroni Native-groivn Cotton. 
 
 '■'■ Novcndicr 1893. 
 " \Vc have to-day seen the chief shippers of cotton to Italy 
 and the Continent generall)-, with regard to the suitabilit}- of
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 637 
 
 lots Nos. 2 and 5 for that market, and find that it is the style 
 they can use. However, the export from here has been 
 exceedingly meagre of late, but still this remains the best 
 market to approach them through, and we have the assurance 
 (jf one of our first houses that they could place such cotton in 
 Italy and the Continent. These are two samples of native 
 cotton (one native-ginned, the other unginned), brought home 
 by Mr. FitzGerald." 
 
 Cotton in the Witn District} Extract from District 
 Officer s Report. 
 
 '■'■November 1893. 
 
 " Native Cotton is grown on the mainland opposite Faza at 
 the following places — Samabaya, Mattaroni, Vundeni, Sumeyie. 
 In Lamu it is used chiefly for stuffing mattresses, pillows, etc., 
 owing to the absence of demand for other purposes. The 
 quantity exported during the period from July i, 1 891, to 
 October 31, 1893, is 586 frasilas. 
 
 " Cotton Seeds. — I am informed these are used as food for 
 milch cattle in Lamu, and the quantity exported from here 
 during the period from July i, 1891, to October 31, 1893, is 
 4217 frasilas. Native cotton and cotton seeds are usually 
 shipped to Zanzibar, Aden, and Bombay." 
 
 Extracts from Letters from Mr. f. Weaver, Magarini 
 Plantations. 
 
 "August 24, 1893. 
 " I am sorry to say the staple is very short ; it is like combed 
 lamb's wool, and is quite free from the seed ; in fact, the latter 
 would almost drop out by shaking the cotton well. . . ." 
 
 " October 10, 1893. 
 " I had good hopes of a grand crop, but the trees are in a 
 much worse state than last year, and the pods are bursting- 
 while small and green from the drought. Cotton planted on 
 the new land at back of Magarini does not thrive if planted 
 when the rains are on ; but one acre planted as an experiment 
 with the last rain does very well up to the present. Also half 
 an acre of ' New Orleans,' planted at the same time, does 
 exceedingly well ; in fact the trees show up much better than 
 the ' Sea Island.' The cotton planted last year on the sea- 
 
 ^ See also Report on "The Cultivation of Cotton in the Witu District." 
 Foreign Office Miscellaneous Series, No. 251, for 1892.
 
 638 APPENDIX B 
 
 ward side of Magarini Hill is suffering very much from the 
 extreme drought. ... In returning lately from Mombasa, I 
 landed at Kilifi, and walked up, and in passing Roka, I 
 noticed some wild cotton that was looking extremely well, 
 and on examining it, found it to be ' Kidne)' Cotton,' other- 
 wise known as G. Peruviana. Please notice, from the small 
 sample sent, the peculiar arrangement of the seeds — they arc 
 like kidneys. It grows well, but the staple seems short." 
 
 Mr. Weavers Remarks on Cotton Cultivation on the 
 Magarini Plantations. 
 
 " Cotton. — By the spring of 1 893 we were able to bring the 
 area under cotton up to 200 acres, of which 90 acres were 
 planted in the previous year. By the end of 1893 ^ small 
 picking of cotton took place, and was continued until the 
 spring of 1894. As far as I can remember, the amount of 
 cotton picked averaged 80 lbs. of clean cotton per acre. This 
 was ginned in the machine sent out from England, at the rate 
 of about 100 lbs. of clean cotton per day. The cotton as 
 picked in the field )-ielded about 33 lbs. of marketable fibre 
 for every 100 lbs. passed through the ginning-machine, the 
 remaining 6"] lbs. consisting of cotton-seed ; this seed was 
 eagerly sought after by the Indian merchants for feeding their 
 milch cows. I found that the natives did not take sufficient 
 pains to keep the fibre clean, they generally got a lot of dirt, 
 such as dried leaves, etc., into their bags along with the cotton, 
 and this rendered it necessary to ' bow-string ' the cotton 
 after ginning. I found the Nubians very expert at all work 
 connected with cotton cultivation : they were exceptionally 
 smart at ' bowing.' Cotton ginned and then ' bowed ' was 
 thoroughly clean, and presented a superior appearance. Sea 
 Island cotton so treated was sent to Europe for disposal, and 
 realized ^^d. per lb. on the market ; other Sea Island cotton, 
 from America and elsewhere, of the highest quality, offered for 
 sale at the same market at the same time, realized 80^. per lb. 
 Towards the end of 1893 ^^'''d in the spring of 1894, during the 
 hot weather before the rains, the cotton plants were attacked 
 b}' an aphis,^ and considerable damage was done to the 
 
 1 "The cultivation of cotton in the United States has gone through 
 a curious change with regard to the depredations of insects. Not veiy 
 long ago, the a\erage annual loss to the cotton-growers from the work 
 of a single species of insect amounted to 15,000,000 dols. This insect 
 was the so-called cotton caterpillar, or cotton-leaf worm (the larva of 
 Alctin argi/tacca, Hiibn.). Down to the year 1881 the damage done h\
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 639 
 
 plants, the leaves of which were entirely eaten up. After 
 some delay the plants were sprayed with a mixture of ' London 
 Purple ' and water, but too much damage had already been 
 done ; the plants did not recover their usual vigour. The 
 season 1893-94 was not very favourable; in fact it was 
 decidedly dry. No attempt was made in 1895 to replant the 
 ground with cotton. 
 
 " In addition to our trouble with the aphides we had con- 
 siderable bother with our labour ; the released slaves found 
 that they could earn more by cultivating their own plot of 
 land than by continuing to work on the cotton plantation 
 at the rate of pay we could afford to give them. The Wanika 
 labourers, we found, were always busy on their own plantations 
 at the time we most urgently needed them. 
 
 "Also in the early part of 1894 we were troubled with a 
 plague of locusts, which were very destructive not only to the 
 cotton but to the coco-nut trees. This plague destroyed the 
 ' Makuti ' (coco-nut leaves), and also ate up all the leaves of 
 the cotton plants. I found that ' London Purple ' was very 
 efficient in keeping the locusts away from coco-nut trees." 
 
 Cotton groivn on Magarini Plantations. 
 
 Broker's Report. '' A fnj^ 1894. 
 
 " AfiP., M'ifP. — These two samples are decidedly attractive; 
 the staple is good, iine, and strong. We submitted them to 
 one of the most practical of the Bolton spinners of fine cotton, 
 and he fully endorsed what we had decided to write ; he 
 remarked that the soil was evidently good, and that owing to 
 the great care and the goodness of machinery employed in 
 preparation of the lint, it would be to the grower's interests to 
 sow the best seed obtainable. We consider these two samples 
 superior to the present offerings of Tahiti-grown cotton, but 
 they will not command the prices of the better growths of 
 Sea Island Perus, which are at present offered at about gd. 
 
 this insect so far exceeded that inflicted by any other species that other 
 forms had received but little consideration. Since about 1S80, however, 
 the cotton-worm has ceased to be a serious enemy to cotton. It is 
 undoubtedly much less abundant and destructive than it was fifteen years 
 ago, and no longer holds the first position among the insect enemies of 
 the cotton crop. The so-called bollworm (the larva oi HcliotJiis nrinigcr, 
 Hiibn.), which a few years ago did much less damage than the cotton- 
 leaf worm, now ranks as the most prominent enemy. It is curious to 
 note this decline of one harmful insect and rise of another. Students of 
 biology will remember many similar instances." — Mr. L. O. Howard, in 
 Bulletin published by the U. S. Department of Agriculture.
 
 640 AI'I'EXDIX P. 
 
 per lb. ; we therefore have decided to send you the valuation 
 of 8U/. to (^d. per lb. for these two samples. 
 
 " AI4.P. — This sample shows good preparation, but it is very 
 short in staple; we think its value is about W. per lb. 
 below that of ' good Mid Orleans,' and would upon this basis 
 be worth 3^^. per lb.; but this is only an estimate, as it is 
 impossible, even for a spinner, to tell the value of a new 
 growth such as this without the actual experience of testing 
 it b}^ machinery. Owing to the scarcity of the high grades 
 of Surat, there is very little clean, well-prepared cotton offer- 
 ing under ^d. per lb., and this fact supports our basis of 
 valuation notwithstanding that the staple is so short. 
 
 " 101/ 104 Bales. — This sample indicates a bright, well-pre- 
 pared cotton, but lacking in fineness of staple and uniformity 
 of strength, some fibres breaking ' strong,' and others lacking 
 this essential feature ; we think d>d. to 8 W. per lb. is about the 
 value of this parcel. 
 
 " N'os. I to 6 : — 6 Bales. — These six bales are very brown 
 in colour, but not evenly so, showing a striped appearance, 
 which, with most spinners requiring regularity of colour, would 
 be an important objection. It, too, is uneven in length, and 
 also lacks uniformity in strength. We do not think it prudent 
 to value this lot higher than /\d. to /i^\d. per lb. 
 
 " I Mat of Cotton. — This lot is the most difficult to value, 
 as in appearance it resembles the other well-prepared lots, but 
 shows considerably more variety in length, strength, and fine- 
 ness, some of it being decidedly weak and rough ; we do 
 not think it safe to put more than about ^d. j^er lb. on this 
 parcel." 
 
 Cotton from Kisinayn {fiilm River). 
 
 Valnatio7i. ''January 1892. 
 
 "No. I. — Fair rough African. Mixed with a good deal of 
 stain, and rather leafy. Value in the present state of the 
 market about d^d. per lb. 
 
 " No. 2. — Rough African, but shorter in staple, seedy and 
 dirt}- ; about '}^d. per lb." 
 
 COTTON-SEED. 
 
 Broker's Report. '' Liverpool^ June 1894. 
 
 " Sample of Cotton-seed. — The \alue of same is about 
 ;^5 \os. per ton. . . . The above sample is of fair merchant- 
 able quality, but there are a good many light brown seeds 
 apparently picked unripe, in which there is no oil, and we
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 641 
 
 think the proportion of the latter is rather over 5 per 
 cent." 
 
 The following is a Marseilles report on this same seed — 
 " The quality of this seed is very good, and a large business 
 could be clone at suitable prices ; but all seed prices are 
 presently very low, and the valuation of day value is about 
 14 to 15 francs per 100 kilos delivered at Marseilles. The 
 best time for sale of this quality of seed is September to 
 October." 
 
 DARI, METAMAH, OR MILLET. 
 
 (Commercially known as Dari.) 
 Valuations. '"''June 1892. 
 
 No. I. "We are pleased to advise sale of your shipment 
 at I 'is. 6d. per quarter of 480 lbs." 
 
 ''^August 1893. 
 
 No. 2. " We have examined sample of one case of decorti- 
 cated millet seed, and find same of good merchantable quality, 
 and worth £^ per ton on wharf A small parcel on the spot 
 was sold this week at an equivalent of £4. to £^ 2s. 6d." 
 
 EBONY. 
 Report. '■'■ Sept c tube r 1893. 
 
 " This wood is not the genuine ebon}', but a wood known 
 here as Africati, Blackivood, or JMo^janibiqne Ebony, for which 
 there is but very little demand ; the pieces should be hewn 
 free from bark or sap, 6 inches in diameter, sound and free 
 from knots, which would then be worth about ^^14 per ton." 
 
 GUM ARABIC. 
 From Kisniayu District. 
 
 Report. '"'' London, January 1892. 
 
 " We have carefully examined the two samples of gum 
 arable handed to us, and find them to consist of very weak, 
 gutty, and partly insoluble gum. The value of this description 
 is very low, and sale is uncertain. As far as we can at present 
 judge, we are afraid it would hardly pay to ship, but we have 
 forwarded a portion of the sample to the largest user of this 
 kind of gum, asking if he could use it at all, and at what price. 
 We will communicate further with you." 
 
 T T
 
 642 APPENDIX V, 
 
 GROUND-NUTS. 
 
 Report. '■'' Marseilles .1 January 1894. 
 
 " Gro7Uid-Nitls.—\NQ arc doing a large business with 
 ]3ombay and Coromandel, and therefore well conversant with 
 this kind of business. The kernels of East Africa (Mozam- 
 bique, etc.) are much in favour and the best paid. . . The 
 article ground-nuts is of the greatest importance for our 
 market, and we can safely advise your friends to do business 
 in this article." 
 
 Valuation. '■^ London, May 1894. 
 
 " Your shipment of ground-nuts has arrived at Marseilles, 
 and the report from there is that on examination of the 
 sample, the kernels were found to be of very good quality, 
 and could be utilized in the drug trade, which pays better 
 than the oil trade, and they are valued at 31 francs per 100 
 kilos, this being the quotation for Mozambique ground-nuts." 
 
 GUM-COPAL, OR ANIMI. 
 
 Report. ''March 1891. 
 
 " Gum A)iinii, called Copal, from Takaungu District. — Red, 
 what is understood in London as Zanzibar Animi. The quality 
 of most of it is good, being pale and strong. . . The value 
 varies according to size, viz. — 
 
 ''Cleaned Gum. — Bold pale, £\}^ to £,\\ per cwt. ; thumb 
 pale, ^11 ; bold red, £\\ ; thumb red, £% ; bean and pea, 
 £6 \os. to ;^8 per cwt. 
 
 " White, soft, iveak Gum. — Value also according to size ; bold, 
 £"/ to £^ ; small, ^^5 to £6 ; bean and pea, Gds. to Sojt. per cwt." 
 
 INDIARUBBER. 
 Reports on East African Rubber. 
 
 " London, July 1890. 
 No. I. " Mozambique character, spun ball clean, but rather 
 green or white, present value, 2s. ^d. to 2s. ^d. per lb. All 
 qualities are saleable; but 'clean,' i.e. free from 'sand' or 
 ' dirt,' are in ?/iost request, and consequently of more ready sale. 
 We should strongly urge on friends in Africa the necessity of 
 obtaining ' clean ' rubber. This class of rubber, ' spun ball,' 
 as represented by your sample, if ' red,' /. e. ' strong,' would 
 bring 2^-. 6d. per lb., our highest value for the moment for the 
 best Mozambique ball."
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 64^ 
 
 '"'^ December 1890. 
 No. 2. " We have now tested the samj^le of Mozambique 
 ' ball,' and congratulate you on the marked improvement it 
 shows on any samples we have seen of this class of rubber for 
 some time back. It shows a decided improvement in the care 
 with which it has been collected ; and the curing is also de- 
 cidedly better. The only fault we have to find with it, is in its 
 greenness^ which will affect its commercial value ; but that is a 
 point which can be overcome, and we have hopes that with 
 still greater care bestowed, we shall see the rubber come to 
 market in as good a state as Para." 
 
 No. 3. " hidiariibber. — Ball fine, free from sand or wood ; this 
 quality is very desirable ; so much of the rubber which comes is 
 so mixed with sand and wood or barky substance, which reduces 
 the value to a great extent. Such as yours, owing to the 
 market being very firm, would bring 2s. ^d. to 2s. 6d. per lb." 
 
 '■'■June 1892. 
 
 No. 4. " There is just one suggestion I would venture to 
 make, the importance of which you should not fail to impress 
 upon your friends, and that is respecting the methods and art of 
 collecting and curing the rubber milk. The milk should be 
 gathered and kept in its pure state, and promptly and 
 thoroughly cured, that is to say daily, this preventing the risk 
 of decomposition. By such methods a superior result may 
 be obtained, the condition and quality of the production 
 being very much more valuable in the home markets than 
 most of the present productions, which are badly cured, loaded 
 with all sorts of impurities ; and besides, very often carrying 
 10 to 40 per cent, of water." 
 
 '■'September 1892. 
 
 No. 5. " We are pleased to advise having sold your rubber 
 at very high prices, obtaining in each case considerably above 
 the value that we and our brokers had put upon the shipments, 
 but little or no difference was made in buyers' offers between 
 the parcels from Mombasa and Lamu." 
 
 Indiarubber in the Witn District. 
 Extract from Report of District Officer. 
 
 "Lamu, November 1893. 
 "I have the honour to acknowledge receipt of your letter 
 dated September 26, enclosing copy of one received by you 
 from the Secretary requesting certain information regarding 
 the export of indiarubber from this port.
 
 r,44 APPENDIX B 
 
 " In reply, I beg to report as follows, and to state that the 
 information given applies to the period from July i, 1891, to 
 October 31, 1893. 
 
 A' //^^^r exported from Lamu during year ending 
 
 June 30, 1892 12,252 lbs. 
 
 Ditto, year ending June 30, I S93 ... ... ... 43,910 „ 
 
 Ditto, for four months ending October 31, 1893 ••• 24,832 „ 
 
 " I would beg to point out that after the heavy rains of last 
 season, a large quantity of rubber was expected, but owing to 
 the unsettled state of Witu territory, the collection of this 
 product was almost altogether stopped except along the coast- 
 line. As you are aware, the forests near Jongeni are the main 
 sources of the rubber exported from here. 
 
 " The following are the places in the district from which 
 rubber is imported into Lamu — 
 
 Kismamanyanui. M'Pekatoni. Shimbwe. 
 
 Panda Nquo. Jongeni. M'Tapani. 
 
 Bindarani. Pumwani. Kilimandaro. 
 
 Katawa. Itembe. M'Paya. 
 
 Bakhetima. Wasin, Wange. 
 
 Gavira. - Kiangwe. Ingeni. 
 
 Safareh. Dodori. 
 
 " A separate record has not been kept of the quantities 
 received from each of the above places, and I regret the 
 information asked for on this point cannot be supplied." 
 
 Extract from Spoil s EncyclopcEciia on African Rubbers. 
 
 " Much ignorance still prevails concerning the sources and 
 collection of the African rubbers. The IMozambique and 
 Madagascar kinds are obtained from the climbing shrubs 
 voa-Jiere or voa-canja ( Vahca inadagascariensis), voa-hine ( V. 
 coniorensis), and V. giimifcra. The product of one of these 
 species is said to be much superior to the others, but all 
 are mixed indiscriminately by the natives. The preparation 
 consists in treatment either with salt water or artificial heat. 
 The Mozambique article occurs in orange-like balls ; in 
 ' sausages,' formed of slender strings of rubber wound upon 
 a stick, which is finally withdrawn ; and occasionally in 
 smooth pieces of various size termed ' cake ' or ' line.' The 
 INIadagascar sort consists of shapeless lumps, the better quality 
 having a pink colour and the lower a black. 
 
 " Some rubber is produced in Mauritius by Cryptostcgia 
 grandifora, and some by WillugJibeia edulis, the latter found 
 also in Madagascar, Chittagong, and Silhet.
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 645 
 
 "A belt of rubber-yielding plants of different si)ccies 
 extends across Tropical Africa from ocean to ocean. \Vithin 
 20 miles of the coast from Liawa and the Lindi estuary 
 (Masasi and Rovuma, E. Africa, ir S., 38 E.), the forest 
 becomes almost entirely formed of indiarubber vines, afford- 
 ing an abundant supply of fine rubber, at present gathered 
 only in a \ery desultory manner by the natives, who gash the 
 plants, and collect the exuding juice, which issues in a liquid 
 form, and dries hard after short exposure to the air. Rolled 
 into orange-like balls, it is taken to Lindi, where it is pur- 
 chased by the Ban}'an merchants at about a quarter its value. 
 Dr. Kirk has determined the plant which yields the best E. 
 African rubber, and has obtained seeds of the species for 
 introduction into India. It occurs in great abundance along 
 the newl}'-made road from Dar-es-Salaam, in a W.S.W. 
 direction, for about lOO miles towards the interior of E. 
 Africa, through the Wazamaro country ; it is apparently but 
 little affected, except in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 villages, by the reckless mode of tapping employed. In 
 many parts a native can still collect 3 lbs. of rubber daily. 
 There are five species, but only one is considered worth 
 tapping. Specimens received from him at Kew have been 
 named LaudolpJiia florida and L. Kirkii, the latter of which 
 yields the best rubber. Landolphia vine is known from 
 Pangani inland all the wa}' to Handei (in Usambara, E. 
 Africa) ; at Magila the rubber is made into balls for export. 
 Dr. Kirk states that L. ozvarieiisis is common along the 
 maritime region of E. Africa, and abundant at the mouth of 
 the Zambesi, being found largely at Shupanga on that river 
 at 100 miles from the coast. The produce of this has been 
 shipped from Quillimane for America. The natives of the 
 Marutse-Mabunda empire, on the Upper Zambesi, trade in 
 rubber with the tribes to the west. The district called 
 Mungao, extending from S. lat. g,^ 25' to Delgado in 10' 41', 
 yielded ;^90,ooo worth of rubber in 1877, when the industry 
 had been only three }'ears in existence. In 1878 Kilwa and 
 Mombasa added largely to the suppl)\ On the Victoria 
 Lake are one or two kinds of tree-producing rubber of good 
 quality. Rubber plants grow on the slopes of the Cameroons 
 mountains (\V. Africa), but the people do not }'et know their 
 value. Rubber trees abound on the river Djour in the 
 province of Bahr-el-Ghazal. 
 
 " The Landolphia spp. are principal among the rubber 
 plants of W. Africa. The rubber is collected from L. 
 oivariensis, extending from \o X. to 10 S. on the coast of
 
 646 APPENDIX R 
 
 W. Africa, and most abundant in the hii^hland districts of 
 Angola; L. jlorida, frequent in inner Angola up to 1500 to 
 2500 feet, and in Liberia ; and L. Heudelotii in Senegal. 
 According to Speke and Grant, the natives say that the best 
 rubber is produced by L. florida. The plants of this genus 
 are woody climbers, growing well in damp rocky ravines 
 scarcely available for other culture. Being climbers, they 
 could not be grown in separate plantations, but would 
 probably flourish in any tropical jungle, where trees already 
 existed for them to ascend. Every part of the stem exudes 
 a milky juice when cut or wounded, but this will not run into 
 a vessel placed to catch it, as it dries so quickly as to form 
 a ridge on the wound, which stops its further flow. The 
 blacks collect it by making long cuts in the bark with a knife, 
 and as the milky juice gushes out, it is wiped off continually 
 with the fingers, and smeared on their arms, shoulders and 
 breast, till a thick covering is formed. This is peeled off 
 their bodies and cut into small squares, which are then said 
 to be boiled in water. According to other accounts, the 
 natives cut off a piece of the bark, and the milky juice is 
 allowed to run into holes in the ground or upon leaves. In 
 some districts they simply let the juice trickle on their arms, 
 going from tree to tree till sufficient has accumulated, then 
 peeling it off from the elbow in the form of a tube. Else- 
 where it is said to be collected and left to inspissate in 
 wooden vessels. Collins remarks that- if the incisions be 
 allowed to penetrate too deeply, they liberate a gummy 
 substance, which mingling with the rubber depreciates its 
 value. These vines may be tapped for rubber when three 
 years old. Christy suggests their cultivation in plantations, 
 and annually cutting down the young shoots almost to the 
 ground, then crushing the stems between rollers, and treating 
 the whole mass with carbon bisulphide, which dissolves the 
 rubber, but not (he says) the injurious gummy matter. The 
 rubber of these vines is of fairly good quality when carefully 
 prepared. It should be made in separate sheets or cakes, 
 one or two inches thick and six inches or so in diameter. 
 Iron or stone vessels are superior to clay for collecting the 
 juice. The better kinds are said to be prepared with the 
 addition of three per cent, of strong liquor avimojiicu. When 
 any liquor is added in the preparation, the sheets must be 
 very thin to facilitate drying. TJiis question of drying seems 
 to have mucJi to do with the quality of the riibber, and the 
 inferiority of African to Para rubber is largely attributed 
 to its being sent into commerce in a raw, green state, wlienee
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 647 
 
 possibly also arises its disagreeable odour, generated by de- 
 composition. The desirability of introducing the Attalea excelsa 
 for the purpose of employing its nut (the nrticuri) in curing 
 African rubber as in Para (see p. 1661), has even been 
 discussed ; but the slow smoky fire from any oily nut would 
 probably have the same effect. 
 
 " Another important W. African plant is Urostigma Vo- 
 gelii, with possibly some other species. The tree (20 to 
 30 feet) grows near the sea at elevations of 50 to 60 feet, 
 but does not flourish in marshy ground. The natives pollard 
 the trees at 10 to 12 feet and cut back the branches, thus 
 obtaining a free and regular flow of sap. The cuttings are 
 easily propagated, and grow vigorously. The trees are tapped 
 at about five years by making slashes or incisions in the 
 trunk ; the juice is collected in a vessel, inspissated by the use 
 of acids, and made up into balls the size of a large orange. 
 Though often sent in a dirty state, the rubber is of good 
 quality, and said to be the best of the Liberian. The juice 
 obtained from trees less than five years old is watery, and 
 does not afford such good rubber. Christy considers this a 
 desirable species for cultivation in the lowlands of S. India, 
 Ceylon, Java, Sumatra, Penang, and Siam. 
 
 " A considerable proportion of W. Africa rubber is obtained 
 from a plant which Holmes has determined to be Tabernac- 
 inontana crassa. In Senegambia the Anjouan {Vahea 
 Scnegalensis) contributes to the supply. In Sierra Leone 
 rubber is collected from Fiats Brasii ; and some Ficns spp. 
 yield it in Angola on the west coast and at Inhambane on the 
 east. A specimen of rubber from the west coast of Africa 
 is attributed to an undescribed species of Carpodimis ; and 
 in Reunion, some is said to be derived from Periploca Graeca. 
 
 " The rubbers sold under the general name of African, 
 omitting Mozambique and Madagascar, occur as shapeless 
 lumps (' knuckles ') from the Congo ; ' negro-heads ' or 
 ' balls ' of scrap, and smooth cakes from Sierra Leone ; 
 ' thimbles,' * nuts,' and ' negro-heads ' from the Portuguese 
 ports ; ' tongues ' from the Gaboon ; and ' balls ' from 
 Liberia. The African rubbers are more adhesive and less 
 elastic than the Para article, and command a lower price. 
 The inferiority could be much reduced by an improved 
 system of preparation." ^ 
 
 1 Spon, Encyclopcrdia of the Industrial Arts, Manufactures, afui 
 Com tuercial Products.
 
 648 APPENDIX B 
 
 JUTE. 
 
 Cultivation of Jute on Sabaki and Tana Rivers. 
 
 '■^ Febri/ary 20, 1892. 
 
 "to the administrator'general, mombasa. 
 
 "Sir, 
 
 "As instructed in your letter of the 30th ult., I have 
 the honour to annex the following report on above. . . . 
 
 " The cultivation is not difficult, and could easil}- and readily 
 be carried on by the natives, care only being required — 
 
 "I. In cutting the plant at the proper time. 
 
 " 2. In testing the fibre when submerged. 
 
 " Being identical with the Cotton-plant in its requirements, 
 there can be no doubt of the suitability of jute for cultivation 
 in this countr)-, and more particularly in the districts border- 
 ing upon the Sabaki river ; I speak from personal observation 
 of the soil and capabilities of these districts, and there must 
 be many more suitable localities in the Company's extensive 
 territor}- well adapted for its cultivation ; I would instance the 
 Tana district. 
 
 " The results of a small experiment, which I would re- 
 commend should be carried out at Jelori, would be highly 
 interesting ; the only question which arises concerning the 
 cultivation of jute in the Sabaki district is whether the 
 permanent }'ellow discolouration of the Sabaki river would 
 have an injurious effect upon the qualit}- of the fibre. 
 " I ha\'e the honour to be, sir, 
 
 " Your most obedient servant, 
 
 ''{Signed) W. W. A. FitzGerald." 
 
 KAPOK, OR TREE-COTTOX. 
 Report. ''March 1891. 
 
 " Melindi district, good qualit}-, silk\- and bright, but a good 
 deal of seed. Value, as per sample, '^^id. ; if free from seed, 
 /^\d. to 5^. per lb." 
 
 MAIZE. 
 Reports. '^ Lon(fo?i, May 1892. 
 
 No. I. "We are pleased to advise sale of your shipment of 
 maize at 20s. 6d. per quarter of 480 lbs. The price of maize 
 varies considerably, but if parcels can be laid down here to cost 
 not more than ic)s. to 20s. per quarter, we think they ought, 
 under ordinar}- circumstances, to realize these prices."
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 649 
 
 '■'■June 1S92. 
 
 No. 2. " We have to advise having sold the maize at \gs. per 
 480 lbs., the broker's report upon which was — ' Small and 
 large mixed, weevilled.' We may mention that upon the 
 day of sale of the maize, Galatz was bringing 20s. gd., and 
 Danube 20s. T,d." 
 
 " December 1893. 
 
 No. 3. " We have the pleasure to advise you of the sale of 
 your shipment maize at 195. per 480 lbs., which we consider a 
 good price, the best qualities of maize value to-day being as 
 under — 
 
 Cinquaiituia ... ... ... ... about 22s. 6d. 
 
 Ga/atc Toxanian ... ... ... ,, 20s. gd. 
 
 Mixed American ... ... ... „ 20s. od." 
 
 ORCHELLA WEED. 
 
 ValiKitions. '■'■ London, March 1891. 
 
 No. I. " Orc/iclla Weed Sample. — All of fair qualit\-, and the 
 very best value would be from i8j-. to 20^'. per cwt." 
 
 ^''January 1892. 
 No. 2. " OreJiella Weed. — \\"e make the sample of orchella 
 weed, so far as we can judge, good, fair qualitx', and worth 
 about 22^-. to 23^'. per cwt." 
 
 OLIVE CULTI\'ATION. 
 Extract from Letter from Sir fohn Kirk. 
 
 "As to the introduction of olive-plant to the Malindi 
 district, I may mention that the olive has been tried in the 
 island of Zanzibar and has there proved a failure ; the tree 
 grows to a good size, but the fruit is small and worthless. I 
 do not think it is worth while to repeat the experiment until 
 we have an acclimati\'e garden in a cooler district than 
 Malindi. 
 
 " In any case, unless the olive trees that grew in the Sultan's 
 garden at Narimoja in Zanzibar have been destroyed, I would 
 recommend getting plants there. The olive is easily propa- 
 gated and in several ways. There are good papers on its 
 cultivation published in Australia, b)' which I was guided 
 when experimenting on the growth of the tree with a view 
 to its growth in Zanzibar. I left at m}- private experimental
 
 650 APPENDIX B 
 
 garden at Zan/jbar plants of nearly all the tropical fruits and 
 products ; I have no doubt they are there still, but probably 
 no one knows what they are. Some trees grow very well, such 
 as the logwood, mahogany, cinnamon, cassia, nutmeg, Liberian 
 coffee, Paraguay tea, Ceara and Para indiarubber trees, etc., 
 etc. Eucalyptus of three kinds grew splendidly ; I left one 
 tree 1 1 2 feet in height. There were also nearly all the tropical 
 fruits, and many useful things, such as the Brazil nut and fancy 
 palms, 
 
 " What we really need on the coast is to have a trained 
 Kew gardener, at about ;^200 salary, in charge of an experi- 
 mental garden, which would be the nursery for the issue of 
 seedling plants for general distribution ; four acres of ground 
 would be more than ample ; my private garden was forty acres, 
 but it was laid out as pleasure-grounds as well. A nursery 
 garden would be most valuable ; but to be of use, it must be 
 under the care of a resident gardener, who can devote his 
 continuous attention to it. 
 
 ''March 2^,1! 
 
 "John Kirk. 
 
 
 
 OSTRICH FEATHERS. 
 
 
 
 Vnhiation. 
 
 
 
 NoTcmbcr 
 
 1894. 
 
 LB. 
 
 7 feathers, wgt. 
 
 I 
 
 3 „ „ I 
 
 2 
 
 2 ty „ 
 
 2 
 
 oz. 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 7 
 
 9 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 White short part bloods value 50-9. 
 „ quilly „ 45^. 
 Third white femina and spadovas ,, lo^. 
 Boos and third boos „ %s. 
 Mediums and short black „ 6^-. 
 Loose black „ \s. 
 
 per \h 
 
 Above realized £6 at public sale, 
 
 RICE. 
 
 From Gosha on River Juba, Kismayu District. 
 
 " London., Januaty 1 892. 
 
 " 1293. Sample of paddy, apparently of Java kind. It is a 
 very bold even grain paddy, slightly mixed with discoloured 
 grains. Difficult to sell, but if imported and cleaner on 
 .shipper's account would probably yield in cleaned rice equiva- 
 lent to ys. 6d, per cwt. for the paddy. 
 
 "1294. Cleaned rice, apparently of Java kind. Middling 
 bold grain, even dull grey-white colour ; some maggots in 
 sample. Nearest valuation, i \s. per cwt. Would sell readily 
 at this moment in the absence of stock of Java or Japan rice."
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 651 
 
 SIMSIM, OR SESAME. 
 Valuation. '■^ London., January 1891. 
 
 " This is also favourably reported upon, and it is worth on 
 the spot about \^s. per quarter of 384 lbs." 
 
 SKINS. 
 Rcp07-t. 
 
 " We value the skins you sent us as follows — 
 
 Deer skins, about \s. 6d. each. 
 
 Leopard skins, about 2s. 6d. and '^s. each. 
 
 " They are very badly wormed, and tender and badly patched. 
 Giraffe hide only suitable for glue, pieces worth about 2d. to 
 IS. 2d. per lb." 
 
 TOBACCO. 
 
 Report. ''January 1891. 
 
 " We have to report as follows on the parcel of samples 
 received from Mombasa — 
 
 " Tobacco. Our brokers report as under — 
 
 " ' We have carefully examined the samples of East African 
 tobacco, and find them different to anything hitherto imported 
 into this country, at least the sample from Taveta. 
 
 " ' The leaf in this sample, evidently packed by natives, is 
 very small and scrappy, and therefore only fit for fillers. It 
 would be interesting to see the full leaf carefully packed 
 straight. For export to the Continent this tobacco as at 
 present put up would be useless, as, on account of the stalk 
 being removed, it would be classed as manufactured, and 
 therefore liable to the duty. As the tobacco we find will 
 not burn, it is useless for cigar purposes, but it might do for 
 cutting if mixed with other growths. The flavour is particu- 
 larly good, and we fancy it may be accounted for by the seed 
 being Virginia, or, what seems also very probable, the flavour 
 may be artificial. We value the tobacco at from ^d. to 'i^ld. 
 per lb. 
 
 " ' The other sample, a nati^'e roll, is quite useless, and 
 utterly unsaleable. We shall be happy to give you any 
 further information you may desire. If of any interest to 
 you, we should be glad to show you samples of leaf tobacco 
 grown in West Africa, worth nearly as many shillings per lb. 
 as we quote yours pence.' "
 
 652 APPENDIX P. 
 
 Report 071 Native-grown Tobacco from the Sabaki Valley. 
 
 '"'' Lojuion^ June 1891. 
 
 " The plait which we have now opened is composed of all 
 sizes of leaves, from some fairly good to others merely scraps. 
 The tobacco is generally mouldy and out of condition, and is 
 therefore not worth our very heavy duty, nor is it in its present 
 heated state fit for cutting up for smoking. 
 
 " The simple plait of tobacco has evidentl}' been made up 
 b}' native or inexperienced hands, and nothing can be done 
 with tobacco in this country until it is properly packed and in 
 a fit condition to compete with that sent over from America 
 and elsewhere. 
 
 " In the first place it should be far more carefully dried and 
 fermented, and handled in such a wa}- that the leaves are torn 
 and damaged as little as possible. 
 
 " Secondly, the leaves should be packed flat and in their 
 natural shape, instead of being plaited." 
 
 Report on the Indian Tobacco Industry. 
 
 The following report, from The Times of February 27, 1896, 
 applies with equal force to British East Africa — 
 
 " Mr. Tripp, in his lecture, pointed out that the three essential 
 factors to the successful pursuit of the tobacco industry were soil^ 
 climate, and skilled labour. Sumatra, possessing all three in an 
 eminentl}' favourable degree, was enjo}-ing an amount of 
 prosperity which was perhaps unequalled in an}' other part of 
 the globe. India's natural advantages of soil and climate, 
 though inferior to those of Sumatra, might be turned to 
 excellent account if skill, experience, and more capital were 
 bestowed upon the industr}'. The further advantage possessed 
 by India of an abundant supply of native labour, of which 
 neither Borneo nor Sumatra could boast, ought, if skilfull)' 
 utilized, to give her a place among tobacco-producing countries 
 to which she had not hitherto become entitled. If the planters 
 of India and Borneo would only pay more attention to those 
 factors in which they were deficient, he felt convinced they 
 could improve the produce to such an extent that it would 
 in time become a source of wealth, not only to themselves, 
 but to the countries within whose areas their estates were 
 placed. The wants of the a\'erage smoker of average means 
 in this country were now supplied for the most part by the 
 continent of Europe, which sent over something like 80,000,000 
 cigars every year. But, in spite of all the discouragement it
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 653 
 
 met with, the British cigar industry was making rapid strides. 
 When the prejudice against home-made cigars could be 
 removed, and India and Borneo were recognized as first-class 
 tobacco-producing countries, it would then be possible to see 
 cigars grown on British soil with IBritish capital and made by 
 Ikitish hands. The lecturer illustrated his paper with a series 
 of lantern slides depicting the culture, fermentation, and 
 manufacture of tobacco in Sumatra. Mr. Strutt, M.P., Sir G. 
 Birdwood, and others, also took part in the discussion that 
 followed." 
 
 WHEAT AND BARLEY 
 
 Report on samples from Ki'kujit. 
 
 '■'■ January 1894. 
 
 " We have received your samples of African produce, and 
 now beg to report upon same as follows — 
 
 " Wheat. Large berry, hard and mixed ; value, about 22s. per 
 496 lbs. 
 
 ''Beardless Barley. Nice quality suitable for malting, 28^-. 
 per 448 lbs. 
 
 " Chevalier Barley. Nice quality suitable for malting, 2'/s. 
 per 448 lbs. ex store. 
 
 " The above quotations for the barley are subject to the bulk 
 arriving quite equal to samples, and free from weevil. Should 
 the barley beweevilled it would be unfit for malting, and would 
 not realize within shillings of above quotations. We mention 
 this, as African produce invariably arrives home more or less 
 weevilled." 
 
 VARIOUS SAMPLES BROUGHT HOME BY THE MOMBASA- 
 UGANDA RAILWAY SURVEY. 
 
 Note. — The numbers in brackets denote the Uganda samples. 
 
 Report. '■'December 1892. 
 
 " We have examined the various samples of African products 
 which you sent us, and beg to report upon them as follows — 
 
 " No. 5. Millet seed ; value to-day, about \6s. or lys. per 480 
 lbs. ex store. 
 
 " Nos. I, 3, 6, 9. Unknown seed, but only fit for grinding 
 into meal for cattle-feeding. Value, about ^3 per ton ex store. 
 
 " We enclose separate letter with report upon the four 
 samples of flour — ' We have carefully examined the samples 
 o{ flour sent us, and have to inform you that they are unsuit-
 
 654 APPENDIX B 
 
 able for baking purposes, and for cattle-feeding" they would 
 be worth as under — 
 
 say No. 5 about £^ per ton. 
 
 „ 3 „ £1 IOJ-. 
 „ 2 „ ;^3 
 
 "No. 7. M'taina (Dari), better than No. 2 ; value, about i8.s\ 
 ]jer 480 lbs. ex store. 
 
 "No. 8. Mahindi. Nice maize; value, about \gs. per 480 
 lbs. ex store. 
 
 "No. 10. Basi. Lupines, n:iight do for seed, but impossible 
 to cjuote. 
 
 "No. II. Knndi. Not saleable in England. 
 
 " No. 12. Kundi. Red beans ; value, from about i6i". to i8j". 
 per 504 lbs. ex store. 
 
 "No. 13. Knndi, Red and white beans mixed; value, to 
 24^'. per 504 lbs. ex store, but nominal, as qualities mixed are 
 used for different purposes. 
 
 "No. 16. Kwidi. Small and mixed. Value, about \6s. to 
 i8jr. per 504 lbs. ex store. 
 
 "(No. 2). M'taina. Dari. Very dark and small ; about \^s. 
 per 480 lbs. 
 
 "(No. 4). Fuivi. Beans, not suitable for this country. 
 
 " (No. 6). Mburu. Haricots ; value, about 28j. per 504 lbs. 
 ex store, but very little consumption here. 
 
 "(No. 7). Mahindi. Inchan corn, small but useful; value, 
 about i8.y. per 480 lbs. ex store. 
 
 "(No. 10). Maize, larger with red grains; value, about i8i". 
 per 480 lbs. ex store. 
 
 "(No. 11). Wheat, very fairly liked; value, about 28^'. per 
 496 lbs. ex store, if free from weevil. 
 
 "(No. 13). Beans. Mixed Haricots; about 18.5-. to 20.*-. per 
 504 lbs. ex store. 
 
 " The above are nearly as possible the values of the articles, 
 but at present time market is terribly depressed, and it is 
 quite possible that in months to come all the articles might 
 realize considerably more, especially the ivJicat and the maize, 
 which arc the principal wants of this country." 
 
 Report on Uganda Coffee. 
 
 ^'' London., June 1893. 
 "We now have the j^leasure to hand you the report on the 
 small sample of Uganda coffee, in cherry, which we received 
 from you some time ago.
 
 EAST AFRICAN PRODUCTS 655 
 
 " On peeling and husking a part of this sample, it appears 
 to be composed of two distinct varieties, a few of the berries 
 being of the ordinary African growth and of a yellowish 
 colour, while the bulk is of much smaller size, with a greyish 
 bloom on it ; the bean itself is very hard, and has a strong, 
 peculiar sweet smell. The sample has not been carefully 
 prepared, but on the whole seems to have been fairly well 
 dried, so the husk was easily removed. The present value 
 is about 75^'. to yds. per cwt. We have recently sold a parcel 
 of mixed Cassenga, shipped from the West Coast, at y^s. 
 per cwt. 
 
 " We have shown this sample to other experts, who agree 
 with us, that under careful cultivation and proper curing, on 
 the same system that coffee is cured in India, the value could 
 be considerably increased, probably to about c^ys. to 98.5-. 
 per cwt."
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 In giving permission for the reprint of the following extracts 
 from the meteorological and climatological returns for British 
 East Africa, published by the British Association for the 
 Advancement of Science, Mr. Ravenstein writes thus : — 
 
 '' October 6, 1897. 
 
 " Dear Mr. FitzGerald, 
 
 " You are at full liberty to make use of any material 
 collected and published by me, either as a private individual 
 or as a Chairman of the British Association. We are anxmis 
 that this information, collected at great trouble to myself, 
 should be utilized, and by doing this you confer a favour. 
 "I now send you our Reports for 1895, 1896, and 1897. I 
 also send you the unpublished rain-fall observations for 1896, 
 which have only just come to hand. 
 
 " Believe me, yours sincerely, 
 
 " E. G. Ravenstein. 
 " \V. \V. A. FitzGerald, Esq. 
 
 "Rain-fall for November 1896, quite unprecedented 
 for all coast stations, but not in the case of those inland." 
 
 The Clitiiatology of Africa. — FoiirtJi Report of a Coininittee, 
 eonsistijig of Mr. E. G. RAVENSTEIN {Chairman), Mr. 
 Baldwin Latham, Mr. G.J. Svmons, Mr. H. N.Dickson, 
 and Dr. H. R. ]\llLL {Secretarf). {Drawn np by the 
 Chairman.) 
 
 [Extracts.] 
 
 Your Committee in the course of last year granted a com- 
 plete set of instruments, including a mercurial barometer 
 presented to them b>' the Meteorological Council, to the 
 
 656
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 657 
 
 Scottish missionaries established at Kibwezi, on the road from 
 Mombasa to Machako's. They also supplied Mr. Hobley, 
 now in Uganda, with one of Symons's earth thermometers. 
 
 Kibzvczi, British East Africa (Scottish Mission). — The 
 instruments were only granted this year. One year's rain-fall 
 observations have been received. 
 
 The sets at all the stations include a mercurial barometer, 
 four thermometers, and a rain-gauge. 
 
 Meteorological reports from thirteen stations in British 
 East Africa have been received. These stations lie on or 
 near the coast, between Wasin and the Jub, and along the 
 road connecting Mombasa with Fort Smith in Kikuyu, the 
 climate of which is described as being exceptionally well 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS IN EAST AFRICA. 
 
 suited to European residents. These observations were, in 
 most instances, made by officials of the Imperial British East 
 Africa Company. The abstracts have been prepared bv the 
 Chairman. (See Map.) 
 
 Your Committee regret that the instructions laid down for 
 the guidance of observers should, in many instances, have bsen 
 set aside, and that observations should have been made at 
 hours precluding the possibility of deducing trustworthy means. 
 Where circumstances do not admit of the instruments being 
 read thrice daily — at 7 a.m., 2 p.m., and 9 p.m. — the ther- 
 mometers should be read at 9 a.m., or twice daily, at an 
 interval of twelve hours. The barometers, however, should 
 be read at intervals of six hours — say at 9 a.m. and at 3 p.m. 
 
 y u
 
 658 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
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 m W 00 vo 
 
 
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 CO W OS vo vo t^ CO 
 
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 vo vo Ov vo 
 
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 .METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
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 66o 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 '^ ->.• 
 
 
 ll'-'.'I 
 
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 r^ 
 
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 -S3 -^ .^
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 66 1 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 x 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 X 
 
 u 
 < 
 
 Mean Temperature assumed = 
 Ky-S'^+i)- Annual range S°*8, 
 daily range perhaps 15°. 
 
 I'ariahieness : mean i'*'4 ; mean 
 of the extremes in each month 3'' 7. 
 
 Rain-fali. — The rain-fall in No- 
 vember was quite exxeptional ; the 
 natives do not remember such a 
 heavy fall for the time of the year. 
 In 1893 only 6*64 in. fell. 
 
 
 '5 
 
 IIKJ 
 
 jsaiABajj 
 
 «^0 Tj-fOr^inr^W 000 \n 
 
 10 M t*^ ON U-) Tj- p jr^ w w 
 
 b b *'-' '" b b b b b b Vi'm 
 
 r 
 
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 mCS M woo fOrON MvO IN M 
 
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 • t^co 00 00 00 CO 00 t^OO t^OO CO 
 
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 % 
 
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 vovovO'Ono mm in mvo >o 'O 
 
 
 
 « -^MD IN pN.t^w .t^.f^p^oo p 
 
 t^Ooboo'm-^TfyDoo OnOn 
 
 10 
 
 ssauaiqBUBjY 
 
 ■^ m p p o^ p m ;*vp n m m 
 
 b *«- N *M *W M *M *M M *M M M 
 
 ■J- 
 
 u 
 
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 Xiq)uoj\[ 
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 m « m fo "-^ ■* « t^-o « ^ M 
 
 ■b 
 
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 ■a- 
 
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 ■g. 
 
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 " 
 
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 t^ MD w t>.oo moo 0^ t^ 
 
 NO 
 
 0^w MOO m*-" (N 'tf-r^M r^t^ 
 \o r>. t^\o \o ^o NO \D t^NO NO 
 
 
 
 CNQvOOO MVO rOWVOVO N tJ- 
 
 On 
 
 > 
 
 fO CO « M t^vOOO On W « (N 
 
 vonononono lomm mvo no no 
 
 
 
 January . 
 February . 
 March . . 
 April . . 
 May . . 
 June . . 
 July . . 
 August 
 September 
 October . 
 November 
 December 
 
 .1- 
 5 
 
 pui 
 
 FokT Smith. 
 
 .^/f(i« Temperature as- 
 .sumed = ^(7.30+ i). An- 
 nual range 8°-5 ; daily 
 
 j range perhaps 15°. 
 
 1 Variableness : mean 
 i°'6; mean of the extremes 
 in each month 4° '3. 
 
 Rain-fall. — The rain- 
 
 ' fall in December seems to 
 have been exceptionally 
 heavy. In 1S93 only 3 "So 
 in. fell. On the other 
 hand the " great rains " 
 in March and April were 
 very light, for only i2'56 
 in. fell, as compared with 
 29"25 in. in 1893. 
 
 
 M. IlEAajj 
 
 
 1 
 
 "Si 
 
 1 W^A 
 
 . w ^O t^oo 00 t^co ro en t^^ 
 :rt^M:jN'*OfnocoomM\o 
 
 vO 
 
 
 }S31AE3J^ 
 
 ■^ob'o^^MMh-bMONM 
 
 'is 
 
 sXbq 
 
 luuomy 
 
 rn M W « f^OO On •-• '^ ^ 
 
 
 
 t^ 
 
 - w c? pi P H ^^ M* p M 01 «p cn 
 '"' M b in Woo *fO '« M w M NO ON 
 
 00 
 
 CJ3 
 
 X 
 
 > 
 
 a? 
 
 - 
 
 mr* t^mrow m "^-on-^n 
 
 • 0\ mvo t^ On On On ON OnOO OnOO 
 
 ■* 
 
 Jn 
 
 - 
 
 'J t-N. m m r> M cnoo oo cnoo covo 
 • m tj- m r- ON onod oo o\oo o\ t^ 
 
 t^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 'J 00 N t^ M -^OO On M M vO 
 •NO mvo t^ On ON Gn ON ON On 0"00 
 
 
 
 
 
 •CO 00 00 Oi On ON ON 0^ On 0* On On 
 
 o\ 
 
 "3 
 
 d 
 E 
 
 4) 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 u 
 
 
 NO 00 -4-00 ON N "^nO m t>s 
 
 vo 
 
 >* 
 
 -* 
 
 M « V) CO M N M -^ CO 'i- 
 nOvOnOvOnOvDnOnOnOnOnOnO 
 
 
 " 
 
 0* NO 00 t-*00 m M CO On ■* '-' 
 
 
 
 nOnONOnOnOnOnOnOnOnOnO'O 
 
 
 
 
 fOO 0"*NO*ON-*Ot^ 
 
 S 
 
 OS M M W 00 OnOO on m On 
 
 mvo vo NO NO m m m mvo no m 
 
 t/) 
 
 
 
 -^«« w om^M-^-^o 
 
 _-* 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 in\o 00 t-^t-Nm« [^J^K^IJ}[0 
 
 t>5 
 
 ssauaiqBUBy^ 
 
 r- M ON w ONvo m on m m m ro 
 
 •P 
 
 
 5 
 2 
 
 u 
 a 
 
 S 
 
 UB3I\[ 
 
 X[qnioi\[ 
 •xojddy 
 
 -J- 
 
 -* i-^ 01 m moo « M vo mm 
 
 VO 
 
 ^ 
 
 m t^vb -hNO^ONO mrOM ci 
 vo nO vO NO NO m mvO NO vO NO vO 
 
 
 CO m m i^ t-soo mvo mvo m m 
 
 VO 
 
 miNOoOo -^w "+Ninminco 
 vO t^vO vOnOvONOnOnOnO-OvO 
 
 " 
 
 
 <N0r^-*w0mONNMvot^ 
 
 
 r5 
 
 WNO M t^'^mmo wNOoo 
 c^ t^ r^ t^vo ^o NO NO r^ t^NO no 
 
 
 
 Ovm p N mp N « M ovm M 
 
 vOOOOn'^COO 0Onm« m w 
 
 no NO NO NO NO NO NO mNO NO NO NO 
 
 vo 
 
 
 
 f>. m mvo mNO (n « oo m o m 
 
 vb 
 
 1 
 
 00 ON O 00 t-^ m m j^ -j-no vo no 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 V
 
 662 APPENDIX C 
 
 Bi itish ILast Africa. Raui-fall — Anton lU in Inc/ics. 
 
 Station 
 
 Vear 
 
 c 
 a 
 >—\ 
 
 4"5i 
 
 u 
 
 '■33 
 
 2 '05 
 
 o'25 
 
 
 a, 
 < 
 
 
 u 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 •— > 
 
 9-24 
 
 5'S4 
 
 3 
 1—1 
 
 2-65 
 4'i9 
 
 3 
 < 
 
 2'OI 
 2 '05 
 
 0. 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 Nov. 
 Dec. 
 
 Year 
 
 Cluivii (4° 38' S., 39° 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 6 '74 
 
 2-12 
 2 '00 
 
 15-SO 
 2-63 
 
 io'8o 
 10-Sl 
 
 o'yi 
 0-16 
 
 0-68 
 
 o-ii 
 
 W-9k 
 7-1,2 
 
 1 
 
 I 55 
 4 "94 
 
 66-27 
 
 Mombasa (4° 4' S., 39" 
 42' E., 60 ft.). 
 
 1875 
 1876 
 1890 
 J891 
 1892 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 o'35 
 
 0-62 
 o"ii 
 2-43 
 o'i6 
 o"oi 
 
 o'i8 
 
 d"02 
 3 "43 
 
 1-85 
 
 2'5I 
 
 o'34 
 
 3'57 
 
 0'62 
 
 o'4i 
 4 -68 
 i'46 
 3 '03 
 
 1 2 "20 
 5 '99 
 6-94 
 
 374 
 6-i8 
 12-51 
 3 '04 
 
 Wl.i 
 PJ-M> 
 11; -or, 
 U-fil 
 U-.Xi 
 W2'J 
 12-29 
 
 6-30 
 3-i6 
 I '59 
 5-63 
 I "43 
 7-69 
 4-27 
 
 9'22 
 
 4 -68 
 
 2'10 
 
 1-68 
 
 2'17 
 
 2-15 
 
 |i'49 
 
 I '89 
 2'72 
 1-36 
 2-03 
 1-26 
 2-78 
 
 I "33 
 
 o"35 
 2-68 
 
 o"S7 
 2 '46 
 I '52 
 
 2'lO 
 0-29 
 
 4-60 
 I -00 
 
 o'i5 
 8-83 
 
 o'35 
 2-27 
 o'65 
 
 o'35 
 0-56 
 2-52 
 3'53 
 1-26 
 10-91 
 7 59 
 
 /t-68 
 o'6o 
 I '32 
 2 '56 
 o'39 
 o'5i 
 2 '88 
 
 41-89 
 
 46-56 
 26'83 
 64',7 
 37-96 
 
 49-c:_ 
 
 
 Meanl 
 
 I '22 
 
 o'94 
 
 2'i6 7-67 
 
 UU7 
 
 4-63 3-72 278 
 
 2 "SB 
 
 3 '5° 
 
 5-51 
 
 173 
 
 Takauiisu (3° 41' S., 39° 
 52' E.I. Observers in 
 1894 : J. Bell-Smith and 
 K. MacDougall. 
 
 1892 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 0-82 
 I '50 
 
 o'oo 
 o'oo 
 
 0'26 
 
 o'57 
 o'oo 
 o'o8 
 
 — 1-14 
 5 "41 7'oi 
 I '91 4 '57 
 5-II - 
 
 lU-01 
 9-3'.) 
 15-39 
 
 5-21 i'53 i'2i 
 7-87 2-80 1-67 
 5-46:1-85 o'49 
 
 2-70 
 o'55 
 o'37 
 
 o'oo 
 
 i"39 
 0-17 
 
 2-71 
 1-86 
 7-20 
 
 o'oo 
 0-64 
 o-6o 
 
 40-66 
 38-01 
 
 
 Mean 
 
 0-58 
 
 0'23 
 
 4"i4 4'24 
 
 i2'93 
 
 6'l8 2'o6 I'I2 I-2I 
 
 0'52 
 
 y92 
 
 0-41 
 
 37'54 
 
 Malindi {3° 13' S., 40° 
 7' E.). 
 
 1891 
 1892 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 o"6i 
 
 075 
 
 o'40 
 o'o3 
 
 o'so 
 
 0'I2 
 
 o'o5 
 
 O'lO 
 
 o'49 
 2 '38 
 1-28 
 o'85 
 
 5-85 
 5 '97 
 
 o'45 
 
 12-00 
 U-90 
 7-83 
 U-U9 
 
 4-26 '3-68 
 3-94 1-82 
 
 7-65 2 '26 
 
 5'2iji'76 
 
 2 '08 
 0-29 
 1-71 
 i'i8 
 
 1-80 
 1-41 
 
 I "05 
 o'oo 
 
 3'3i 
 o'3S 
 I '14 
 o'o7 
 
 3-48 
 0-15 
 
 5-77 
 
 2-50 
 
 1,-02 
 0-19 
 1-63 
 I '96 
 
 30-12 
 
 50-79 
 28'95 
 
 Mean 
 
 0-45 '0-19 
 
 I '25 1 7-69 
 
 12-08 
 
 5-26 2-38 
 
 1-31 
 
 1-07 
 
 I '22 
 
 2-97 
 
 1-95! 37-82 
 
 Jilore (3° 10' S., 39° 
 
 55' E.). 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 375 2"24 
 
 O'lO — 
 
 2 '96 
 1-87 
 2 '58 
 
 6-77 
 
 4-92 
 
 3 62 I -14 
 
 2 '04 
 
 0-69 
 
 o'59 
 
 k-71 
 
 3 '69 — 
 
 ~ 1 ~ 
 
 Magarini (3° 5' S., 40° 
 6' E.). 
 
 0-85 
 
 o'oo 
 o'oo 
 
 o'37 
 o'oo 
 
 O'll 
 
 2-69 13-1,5 
 3-38 1 0-65 
 3'97 \ — 
 
 5'2S 
 10-31 
 
 5 '61 2-65 
 4-42 1-69 
 
 I '97 
 
 0'72 
 
 0'72 
 
 o'o7 
 
 0-84 
 
 O-QO 
 
 U-80 
 7-56 
 
 I'OO 
 
 4-48 
 
 40 '20 
 33-28 
 
 28-98 
 
 44'54 
 21-14 
 
 Lamu (2° 16' S., 40° 
 
 54' E.). 
 
 1890 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 0'2I 
 
 o'4i 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 I '04 
 o'oo 
 
 I 'SO 
 2 '97 
 o"i5 
 
 I "95 
 1 5 "50 
 o'25 
 
 1806 
 16-35 
 
 15-28 
 
 2'SO 2-17 
 
 2'93]0'85 
 2-i5|0'45 
 
 I '22 
 
 o'56 
 0*22 
 
 r'20 
 o'97 
 o'oo 
 
 0-I3 
 
 1-70 
 
 O'lO 
 
 0-04 
 
 o'35 
 1-60 
 
 O'oo 
 o'9i 
 o'94 
 
 Mean 
 
 0'20 
 
 o"35 
 
 I "54 
 
 5 "90 
 
 16-56 
 
 2'53[i"i6 
 
 0-66 
 
 0'72 
 
 o'64 
 
 0*66 '0-62 
 
 31 '55 
 
 Kisimayu (0° 22' S., 42° 
 
 33' E.), 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 189s 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 
 4'49 
 3-89 
 
 5-G3 
 5-2U 
 
 10 o'oo 
 I-I7 0-53 
 
 o'52 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'2g 
 
 0-60 
 
 1-59 
 
 1373 
 
 Mbungu (3° 46' S., 39° 
 30' E.;. Observer: 
 Rev. J. Hufmann. 
 
 1891 
 1892 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 I '52 
 
 4'47 
 o'oo 
 
 r'49 
 i'i3 
 
 I '09 
 
 2'37_ I '76 
 S'Oo 5 '84 
 
 4'I7 — 
 
 6 "03 
 2'6g 
 
 '378 
 
 7 "30 
 
 2-25 
 
 I '53 
 o'64 
 
 o'Ss 
 
 o'49 
 I '70 
 
 I'I2 
 2'13 
 
 °75 
 
 I -21 
 
 o"5i 
 o'o3 
 
 0-70 
 
 I -56 
 o'04 
 
 3-72 
 
 5-07 
 5 '64 
 
 3 "54 
 1-56 
 
 2 '08 
 
 - 
 
 Ndi !3''2o'S.,38'' 29' E., 
 2400 ft.;. Observer : 
 Ch. Wise. 
 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 I'lO 
 
 2 '22 
 
 5'oi 
 
 — 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2-40 
 
 5-69 
 
 - 
 
 Kibwezi (2° 25' S., 37° 
 55' E., 3000 ft.) : Ob- 
 •server : Rev. T.Watson. 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 0'I2 
 
 0-58 
 
 6-G/f 
 
 I '44 
 
 i'i3 
 
 o'o5 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 
 15-72 
 13-55 
 
 7-80 
 3 '24 
 
 26-73 
 
 Machako's (1° 31' .S., 37° 
 18' E., 5400 ft.l. 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 '89s 
 
 075 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'i6 5'48 
 3-85 10-13 
 
 9-33 
 
 i'93 
 
 o'sS 
 
 0-09 
 
 0-06 
 
 o'oo 
 
 0'02 
 
 I "37 
 1-27 
 
 6 '64 
 18-16 
 
 6-34 
 4"i3 
 
 41-06 
 
 Fort^ Smith, Kikuyu 1° 
 14 ^•) 36° 44' E., 6400 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 1895 
 
 I '12 
 
 o'oo 
 
 - "3-65 
 o"23i 5"33 
 7 '43 10-46 
 
 loGO 
 7 '23 
 
 8-54 
 S-11 
 
 o'28 
 3-46 
 
 I '01 
 
 2T3 
 
 I -02 
 
 2-63 
 
 2-22 
 
 0-61 
 1-27 
 
 5-09 
 6 '68 
 
 3-80 
 9-33 
 
 48^1. 
 
 ' The m 
 ere T 
 
 : means for .Mombasa are deduced from nearly eleven years' observations, includ 
 own, wliere qoo6 in. fell in 1877, 51-30 in. in 1875, 45-57 in. in 1S79, and 44-75 in. in 
 
 inji those made at 
 
 18S0.
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 663 
 
 Heaviest Fall of Rain xvithin 24 Hours. 
 
 Station 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ci 
 
 0. 
 
 >< 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 _>> 
 
 bi 
 
 d 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 1—1 
 
 
 § 
 
 <; 
 
 S 
 
 •—I 
 
 1— ) 
 
 <; 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Q 
 
 Chiiyu 
 
 
 
 I -61 
 
 o'93 
 
 1-50 
 
 'i-oS 
 
 I "43 
 
 1-30 
 
 1-17 
 
 o"i6 
 
 0*09 
 
 I '43 
 
 I '62 
 
 M 0111 basa 
 
 0"I2 
 
 2-14 
 
 o'46 
 
 1-63 
 
 s-m 
 
 1-63 
 
 0-50 
 
 0*40 
 
 070 
 
 0'27 
 
 i'i8 
 
 I '53 
 
 Takaungu 
 
 
 
 
 1-41 
 
 1-87 
 
 U-oiy 
 
 170 
 
 07s 
 
 o'lS 
 
 o"i9 
 
 0-17 
 
 0-38 
 
 o'33 
 
 Malindi 
 
 o"35 
 
 o'o5 
 
 0-85 
 
 0'20 
 
 3-35 
 
 1-30 
 
 0-44 
 
 o"i9 
 
 — 
 
 0*07 
 
 2*50 
 
 0-95 
 
 Jilore 
 
 
 — 
 
 I"I2 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 I "20 
 
 2'l6 
 
 Magarini 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 178 
 
 0-38 
 
 2*67 
 
 0-87 
 
 0-45 
 
 — 
 
 o"40 
 
 — 
 
 3-G7 
 
 2-56 
 
 Lamu 
 
 o'oo 
 
 o'oo 
 
 0-I5 
 
 0-25 
 
 S-00 
 
 075 
 
 0-30 
 
 0"I2 
 
 — 
 
 o"io 
 
 1-40 
 
 o"35 
 
 Kisiinayu 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 2'IO 
 
 vuo 
 
 070 
 
 0-35 
 
 o"4S 
 
 o'oo 
 
 0*29 
 
 o'4o 
 
 1-38 
 
 Mbungu 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 1-OS 
 
 0'22 
 
 076 
 
 0*19 
 
 o'o3 
 
 0*04 
 
 I "57 
 
 0"92 
 
 Kibwezi 
 
 0*I2 
 
 o"33 
 
 2*90 
 
 1-04 
 
 o'tj 
 
 Cos 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 3-3U 
 
 i-i8 
 
 Machako's 
 
 o"5o 
 
 0'I2 
 
 176 
 
 I "94 
 
 o'53 
 
 0-47 
 
 0*05 
 
 o'03 
 
 0"02 
 
 070 
 
 3 -IS 
 
 I 25 
 
 Fort Smith 
 
 072 
 
 0'20 
 
 r^c 
 
 1-40 
 
 2 '07 
 
 i-3« 
 
 i-o8 
 
 0-37 
 
 I -08 
 
 0-53 
 
 2"I3 
 
 1-67 
 
 Number of Raijiy Days. 
 
 On 
 
 y days on 
 
 which at least O'o 
 
 in. 
 
 of Rain fell are counted. 
 
 
 
 Station 
 
 Year 
 
 « 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 c3 
 
 1 
 
 
 c 
 
 3 
 •—1 
 
 
 < 
 
 a 
 
 0) 
 CO 
 
 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 Year 
 
 Chuyii . 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 1895 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 7 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 17 
 
 20 
 19 
 
 i6 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 1 
 
 4 
 7 
 
 116 
 
 Mombasa 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 189s 
 
 7 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 8 
 3 
 3 
 
 10 
 6 
 7 
 
 19 
 8 
 
 24 
 18 
 
 16 
 II 
 
 14 
 7 
 
 22 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 9 
 
 IS 
 19 
 
 6 
 2 
 
 164 
 102 
 
 Takaungu . 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 3 
 
 
 I 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 8 
 
 12 
 4 
 
 21 
 14 
 
 18 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 8 
 
 II 
 4 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 9 
 
 I 
 3 
 
 102 
 
 Malindi 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 1895 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 5 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 3 
 
 18 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 I 
 
 4 
 6 
 
 99 
 
 Jilore . 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 4 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 4 
 7 
 
 J 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 7 
 
 [3] 
 5 
 
 [97] 
 
 Magarini 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1S95 
 
 5 
 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 4 
 4 
 9 
 
 21 
 4 
 
 22 
 15 
 
 24 
 13 
 
 18 
 13 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 
 21 
 II 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 150 
 
 Lamu . 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 3 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 8 
 
 I 
 
 22 
 
 I 
 
 24 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 4 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 : 
 
 86 
 37 
 
 Kisimayu 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 II 
 10 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 h 
 
 Mbungu 
 
 1893 
 189+ 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 I 
 
 IS 
 
 . 14 
 
 8 
 
 — 
 
 Ndi . 
 
 1894 
 1895 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 — 
 
 Kibwezi 
 
 1894 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 44 
 
 Machako- . 
 
 •893 
 1894 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 3 
 
 I 
 2 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 21 
 22 
 
 25 
 II 
 
 84 
 
 Fort Smith . 
 
 1893 
 1894 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 12 
 
 25 
 20 
 
 16 
 22 
 
 2 
 13 
 
 3 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 10 
 
 3 
 II 
 
 18 
 [24] 
 
 19 
 16 
 
 ■i"
 
 664 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 The Climatology of Africa. — Fifth Report of a Coininittce, con- 
 sisting of Mr. E. G. Ravenstein {Chairman), SiR JoliN 
 Kirk, Mr. G. J. Symons, Dr. H. R. Mill, and Mr. H. N. 
 Dickson {Secretary). {Drawn up by the Chainnan.) 
 
 {Extracts.] 
 
 British East Africa. — Observations have been received 
 from thirteen stations. Unfortunately, owing to the disturbed 
 state of the country and to administrative changes, some of 
 the registers are -imperfect. The F'oreign Office has met 
 with the wishes of your Committee in the most gratifxing 
 manner. Instructions have been given by Mr. Hardinge, 
 her Majesty's Commissioner, to have meteorological returns 
 kept, and these will be sent to us for publication. 
 
 Three sets of instruments (including barometers and 
 anemometers) have been forwarded by the Foreign Office 
 to Uganda, and since the beginning of this year observations 
 on the water-level of the Victoria Nyanza are being made by 
 means of gauges erected at Port Alice and Port Victoria. 
 
 AlachakJs {Ukaiiiba). Lat. i" 31' S., Long. 37" 18' E., 5400 /tv A 
 R . W. Lane, T. T. Gi/kisoii, and John Aiiisworth. 
 
 Observers, 
 
 
 
 
 Temperature 
 9 a.m. 
 
 Humidity 
 
 Rain 
 
 1895 
 
 Dry 
 
 Vapour 
 Pressure 
 
 Relative 
 Humidity 
 
 Amount 
 Total 
 
 Amount 
 6 p.m. to 
 6 a.m. 
 
 Days 
 
 Heaviest 
 Fall 
 
 January 
 
 February 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 
 
 68-1 
 
 67-3 
 66-3 
 66-5 
 657 
 61 -5 
 
 58-7 
 62-4 
 62 '9 
 63-0 
 627 
 58-8 
 
 In. 1 p.c. 
 •409 60 
 
 •519 78 
 •542 i 84 
 •543 83 
 
 •541 86 
 •470 ' 86 
 
 In. 
 3-85 
 
 io'i3 
 12-38 
 
 2'IO 
 
 77 
 
 In. 
 319 
 
 7-86 
 
 1 068 
 
 72 
 
 75 
 
 II 
 19 
 23 
 
 7 
 4 
 
 In. 1 
 1-52 
 
 1-95 
 2-59 j 
 
 •89 1 
 •34 
 
 The rains generally end in May, and the amount recorded for April is 
 exceptionally heavy. No entries were made for January ; perhaps no rain fell. 
 (January, 1894, 075 in. on three days.) 
 
 Prevailing IVint/s. —}>lay, S.E.; June I-7, S.W. ; June, 7-30, .S.
 
 METEOROLOGY OF HRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 665 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 u_ 
 
 _ 
 
 r^ 
 
 w-> 
 
 „ 
 
 N 
 
 n 
 
 N 1^ 
 
 v£3 
 
 VO 
 
 ro 
 
 VO 
 
 N 
 
 
 5 t« 
 
 d 
 
 N 
 
 ro 
 
 e> 
 
 N 
 
 r^ 
 
 'I- ■* 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 ro 
 
 N 
 
 
 gt-- 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 la 
 
 N 
 
 „ 
 
 
 N 
 
 
 K 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 y. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■- 
 
 rt 
 
 M 
 
 ro 
 
 r^ 
 
 M 
 
 CTv 
 
 Th 
 
 Cn ro 
 
 a^ 
 
 ro 
 
 
 
 VO 
 
 u^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 _j_, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 »_| 
 
 'I- 
 
 UO 
 
 t^ 
 
 o\ 
 
 -& 
 
 m CO 
 
 t-l 
 
 >+ 
 
 r^ 
 
 N 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 e 
 
 < 
 
 d 
 
 ro 
 
 
 
 Tt- 
 
 C^ 
 
 •& 
 
 ro 
 
 N 
 
 
 
 ro 
 
 ■* 
 
 P 
 
 
 t— < 
 
 
 CO 
 
 Cl 
 
 
 
 kM 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 ro 
 
 ro 
 
 H-< 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ro 
 
 
 »>^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 nx 
 
 r/0 
 
 N 
 
 u-i 
 
 n 
 
 Cn CO 
 
 ON 
 
 r/0 
 
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 666 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 5 
 
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 ^lETEOROLOGY OP^ BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 667 
 
 inds 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 668 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 Malindi. Lai. 3' 13' S., Long. 40' 7' E. 
 Observer : K. MacDomrall. 
 
 
 Temperalurc 9 a.m. 
 
 Humit 
 
 lity 
 
 
 Rain 
 
 
 1895 
 
 
 
 5^ 
 
 ^.^ 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 >. 
 
 *\i 
 
 § 9 
 
 
 3 
 
 >. 
 
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 ^ 
 
 a u 
 
 « ^ 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 gfe- 
 
 
 
 
 •^&H 
 
 ^X 
 
 < 
 
 
 K 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 In. 
 
 p.C. 
 
 In. 
 
 
 In. 
 
 January . 
 
 79-1 
 
 76-6 
 
 ■887 
 
 89 
 
 •08 
 
 3 
 
 •06 
 
 February . 
 
 8i-6 
 
 78-5 
 
 ■939 
 
 87 
 
 •10 
 
 I 
 
 •10 
 
 March 
 
 85-1 
 
 81-4 
 
 I '029 
 
 85 
 
 •85 
 
 2 
 
 •75 
 
 Apiil 
 
 83-9 
 
 82-3 
 
 1-083 
 
 94 
 
 2-54 
 
 7 
 
 •60 
 
 May 
 
 80-5 
 
 78-3 
 
 •942 
 
 91 
 
 13-85 
 
 10 
 
 4'59 
 
 [une 
 
 78-5 
 
 74-6 
 
 •812 
 
 83 
 
 •03 
 
 I 
 
 •03 
 
 luly 
 
 78-0 
 
 75 'o 
 
 •833 
 
 87 
 
 3-89 
 
 10 
 
 1-50 
 
 August 
 
 8i-8 
 
 74 "9 
 
 •787 
 
 72 
 
 ■44 
 
 3 
 
 •30 
 
 September 
 
 82-4 
 
 75 '9 
 
 •810 
 
 73 
 
 •57 
 
 4 
 
 •27 
 
 October . 
 
 82-6 
 
 762 
 
 •832 
 
 75 
 
 7-96 
 
 7 
 
 2'19 
 
 November 
 
 827 
 
 79-9 
 
 •988 
 
 89 
 
 329 
 
 7 
 
 I "20 
 
 December 
 
 813 
 
 79 'o 
 
 •964 
 
 91 
 
 I "34 
 
 5 
 
 •65 
 
 Year 
 
 8i-5 
 
 111 
 
 •909 
 
 85 
 
 34*94 
 
 60 
 
 4 '59 
 
 NiU Station. Lat. 3' 20' S., Long. 3S' 29' E., 2400 feet. 
 Observer: Ch. Wise. 
 
 
 
 
 Rain 
 
 
 1895 
 
 Mean 
 
 Temperature, 
 
 9 a.m. 
 
 
 
 
 Amount 
 
 Days 
 
 Heaviest 
 Fall 
 
 
 ° 
 
 In. 
 
 
 In. 
 
 January . 
 February . 
 
 
 
 
 
 737 
 76-0 
 
 I'lO 
 2-22 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 •70 
 112 
 
 March 
 
 
 
 
 
 81 -o 
 
 5-01 
 
 10 
 
 I'OO 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July. . 
 
 Auj^ust (1-20) 
 
 
 
 
 
 78-5 
 76-6 
 
 73 "9 
 72-8 
 70*8 
 
 1-49 
 
 ■35 
 •07 
 
 ■03 
 •02 
 
 7 
 6 
 I 
 I 
 I 
 
 •42 
 
 •15 
 •07 
 •03 
 •02 
 
 November 
 December 
 
 
 
 
 
 74-5 
 73-5 
 
 5-62 
 4-89 
 
 13 
 14 
 
 •81 
 114 
 
 A second return for March, from the same station, gives the followiiii;; 
 results; — Mean temj^eraturc, 83 "5 ; rain, i'07 Inchon four days: heaviest fall 
 within 24 Ikhus, 0'6i inch.
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AP^RICA 
 
 669 
 
 °o 
 
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 f*^ 
 
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 a 
 
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 3 
 
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 80 8 
 
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 670 
 
 Al'I'EXDIX C 
 
 Mat^arini {Malindi Shambas). Lat. 3" 13' 5., Long. 40 l' E., 8 mi Us, N. IV. 
 of Malindi. Observer : Javics Weaver. 
 
 1895 
 
 Temperature 
 Extremes 
 
 Mean 
 
 Temperature 
 
 Rain 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Highest 
 
 Lowest 
 
 Max. 
 
 Min. 
 
 Mean 
 
 Amount 
 
 Days 
 
 Heaviest 
 
 Fall 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Inch 
 
 
 Inch 
 
 January . 
 
 93 
 
 67 
 
 91-3 
 
 70-3 
 
 80 -8 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 •00 
 
 February . 
 
 93 
 
 68 
 
 91 "4 
 
 69-8 80 -6 
 
 •II 
 
 I 
 
 •II 
 
 March . . 
 
 96 
 
 68 
 
 92-8 
 
 69-8 81-3 
 
 3-97 
 
 9 
 
 2-OI 
 
 Mayi . . 
 
 
 
 ~ 
 
 ~ ! 
 
 776 
 
 18 
 
 2-21 
 
 1 Violent earth tremors were experienced between May 15 and 23. 
 
 TJic Climatology of Africa. — Sixth Report of a Committee, 
 consisting of Mr. E. G, Ravenstein {Chairman), SiR John 
 Kirk, Mr. G. J. Symons, Dr. H. R. Mill, and Mr. H. N. 
 Dickson {Secj-etary). {Drazvn iip by the Chaiiman.) 
 
 [Extracts.] 
 
 British East Africa. — The usual reports have only been 
 received up to June last, and we therefore defer their publi- 
 cation until the reports for a full year shall have come to 
 hand. 
 
 The Scottish missionaries at Kibwezi, to whom your 
 Committee granted a set of instruments last year, have 
 regularly sent in their registers since July last. They have 
 been kept with much care, and include hourly observations 
 for sixteen term-days, the first of the kind received from this 
 Protectorate. 
 
 A return of one year's rain-fall at Mumia's in Kavirondo 
 has been received from Mr. C. W. Hobley, who also forwards 
 a few observations made with a Symons's earth-thermometer. 
 
 Uganda. — Through the kindness of the Foreign Office, we 
 hope to be enabled to publish in our next report full meteoro- 
 logical records for a number of stations. In the meantime we 
 present abstracts of fourteen months' observations on the 
 variations in the level of the Victoria N}'anza, which have 
 been made at three stations since January 1896.
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 671 
 
 S 
 
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 C^r^r^ -S S JJ S S 
 
 2^ ^-S >'^ >^S3S.2 > o 
 ^ix, ;5 < S ^^^ -J] O g Q
 
 672 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 S 
 
 
 •««; 
 
 
 C o O O en •* O 
 
 •3t3 
 
 
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 junouiy 
 
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 J<2 
 
 (J D.
 
 .METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 673 
 
 
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 Jiiode^ 
 
 jo^aiuouiaaq L 
 
 o ■* C^CO \^ c — 
 
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 t ro >- O 0\00 "O \£) O O 
 
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 ) lOvo vOvOvDO\0'«0'«0'0»0^^0^'00^0 
 
 tN. r*. t>«»\o >o ^ 
 
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 ?iw n OCT. o« o coioiO'^tN 000 m >-• - ^ ^ u^vo « « I o 1 - "^ 
 
 t3 p p p^ CT <> p p p p O P p a- p\ <> C^ CT\ <> CT> p^ O- p ' CT^ j g aj 
 
 3AU^[3^ 
 
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 • oooooooo 0\CT>0\ o\oo t^so *o 
 
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 ^mO'-ONOOOO 
 
 jsjsuioiuaaqj^ 
 
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 "TJ p p p p O p p p p p p p p CT* p- p\ p» p\ p p p p p 
 
 
 : Aiipiiunjj 
 
 jnodu^ 
 
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 -rrirtrirrrtcindcisKT;:!.: 
 
 = = c e = 
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 "in 
 
 X X
 
 674 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 % 
 
 G 
 
 X! 
 
 e 
 
 Q 
 
 Xjipminfj 1 
 
 ^ O\oo Q 00*0 OOn-^w h*.0 t** rooo t^ r0\O m -^t- t^ r*«.oo m 
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 1 
 
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 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 
 
 675 
 
 Muinids, Kavirondo. 
 
 Lat. 0° 20' JV., 
 
 Kibivezi. Lat. 
 
 2° 25' S. 
 ., 2990/t' 
 
 Lo/nr. 
 
 37 55' 
 
 Loii.;. 34" 30' E., i^o^o feel. Observer : 
 
 E 
 
 :t. 
 
 C. IV. Hob ley, Mem 
 
 Inst. C.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rain-fall 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rain-fall 
 
 1896 
 
 
 
 
 1896-97 
 
 
 
 Heaviest 
 
 
 Amount 
 
 Days 
 
 Heaviest 
 Fall 
 
 
 Amount 
 
 Days 
 
 P'all in 
 24 hours 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 January . . . 
 
 Inch 
 
 ■93 
 
 5 
 
 Inch 
 
 ■45 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Inch 
 
 
 Inch 
 
 j February . . 
 
 179 
 
 4 
 
 I '63 
 
 February 1896 . 
 
 79 
 
 3 
 
 ■45 
 
 1 March . . . 
 
 1-87 
 
 7 
 
 •82 
 
 March . . 
 
 
 4-18 
 
 II 
 
 1-32 
 
 ' April .... 
 
 3-8l 
 
 II 
 
 I -06 
 
 April . . 
 
 
 
 3"96 
 
 16 
 
 1-36 
 
 May .... 
 
 ■35 
 
 4 
 
 ■17 
 
 May . , 
 
 
 
 7-29 
 
 15 
 
 2-71 
 
 June .... 
 
 ■qi 
 
 
 •01 
 
 June . . 
 
 
 
 6-14 
 
 18 
 
 1-58 
 
 July .... 
 
 ■004 
 
 — 
 
 •003 
 
 July . . 
 
 
 
 670 
 
 17 
 
 1-40 
 
 August . 
 
 ■14 
 
 2 
 
 •09 
 
 August 
 
 
 
 6-67 
 
 20 
 
 I '22 
 
 September . 
 
 ■10 
 
 2 
 
 •07 
 
 September 
 
 
 
 5"i3 
 
 19 
 
 1-66 
 
 October . . . 
 
 ■53 
 
 4 
 
 ■32 
 
 October . 
 
 
 
 4'6i 
 
 17 ' I '02 
 
 November . . 
 
 8-6o 
 
 26 
 
 1-40 
 
 November 
 
 
 
 8-13 
 
 21 I "36 
 
 December . . 
 
 4'55 
 
 15 
 
 I -08 
 
 December 
 
 
 
 1-63 
 
 6 1 -67 
 
 
 
 
 
 January 1897 
 
 3 '33 
 
 TO 1 I "02 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Year 1896 . . 
 „ 1895 . . 
 
 21-68 
 33'ii 
 
 81 
 90 
 
 163 
 2-68 
 
 
 
 Totals . . . 5876 
 
 173 1 - 
 
 „ 1894 . . 
 
 2673 
 
 44 
 
 3 "34 
 
 According to the local authorities the rain-fall at Mumia's in 1896 was far below the average. 
 Nearly the whole of the rain-fall took place between 2 and 7 p.m. The rain was nearly always 
 accompanied by thunder. Most of the rain occurs with an easterly wind blowing from the high- 
 lands in the direction of the lake. The rain-gauge was by Casella, 8 in. in diameter, and had 
 been procured through ihe Meteorological Office (MO. 364). 
 
 Eai-tk Te»iperatu}-cs. At Mumia's, on March 1, 1897, at 5.30 p.m., Mr. Hobley lowered one 
 of Synions's earth thermometers to a depth of 3 feet below the surface, the temperature of the 
 air at the time being 71° F. and that of the earth thermometer 72". On March 3, 1897, at 5 p.m., 
 the air temperature being 72° F., the earth thermometer was withdrawn, and was found to 
 indicate a temperature of 77" F. 
 
 A similar experiment was made at ^Longicliis, on the southern slope of Mount Elgon, at an 
 elevation of 5000 feet, when the earth temperature, at a depth nf 3 feet, was found to be 71" F. 
 
 The result obtained at Mongichi's approximates to the mean temperature of the year ; that at 
 Mumia's is clearly too high. We are promised a systematic series of these earth temperatures. 
 
 Variations in the Level of Victoria Nyanza. 
 
 
 
 Mean Lake Level 
 
 Fluctuations 
 
 
 
 Months 
 
 Port 
 Alice 
 
 Lubwa 
 
 Port 
 Victoria 
 
 Port 
 Alice 
 
 Lubwa 
 
 Port 
 Victoria 
 
 Port Alice 
 
 1896 
 January . 
 February . 
 March 
 Aprd 
 May 
 June 
 July 
 August 
 September 
 October . 
 November 
 December 
 
 
 In. 
 
 7'i 
 4 "4 
 
 2 '2 
 
 3'i 
 3"o 
 I '5 
 0-9 
 
 - I'D 
 
 -8-4 
 
 -5'i 
 -1-8 
 
 In. 
 
 5-6 
 3'5 
 
 2'9 
 
 3-2 
 37 
 2-5 
 
 -O'l 
 
 -I'S 
 -4'3 
 -8-2 
 -4-8 
 -2-6 
 
 o"o 
 
 In. 
 
 6-6 
 4 '4 
 3 '3 
 3-0 
 3 '2 
 
 2*4 
 -0'2 
 
 - 2"2 
 
 -5-3 
 
 -8-6 
 
 -37 
 -23 
 
 In. ' In. 
 
 3-0 2-5 
 3'o j 5'5 
 3'5 5'6 
 2'o 57 
 2-0 5-0 
 
 2'0 2"7 
 3-0 5-0 
 20 3-0 
 
 4'5 6'2 
 4'o 5'5 
 77 >o-5 
 27 4'2 
 
 In. 
 
 37 
 5"5 
 6-7 
 3'5 
 
 2-0 
 
 4-0 
 
 4"o 
 3"o 
 5"o 
 3'S 
 8-5 
 3'o 
 
 4 "4 
 
 In. 
 
 ~ 
 
 8-6i 
 4'45 
 3-i8 
 0-31 
 4-10 
 2'37 
 4'59 
 12*05 
 
 4-69 
 
 Days 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 5 
 It 
 
 '. 25 
 
 ID 
 
 Year (Mean) . 
 
 -o'o 
 
 o"o 
 
 33 
 
 2'5 
 
 4'o 
 
 1897 
 January . 
 February . 
 
 -2'0 
 
 - 2 '2 
 
 -2-8 
 
 - I'D 
 
 -2'5 
 
 -0-7 
 
 2'5 
 
 2"0 
 
 275 175 
 
 3'00 2'62 
 
 5 
 13
 
 676 
 
 APPENDIX C 
 
 
 Variations 
 
 ill the Level of Victoria Nyanza. 
 
 
 Decades 
 
 
 Lake Level 
 
 Rain 
 
 
 
 
 Port Alice 
 
 Port Victoria 
 
 1896 
 
 Port Alice 
 
 Lubwa 
 
 Port Victoria 
 
 
 
 Amount 
 
 Days 
 
 Days 
 
 
 In. 
 
 In. 
 
 In. 
 
 In. 
 
 
 
 January i 
 
 7-8 
 
 — 
 
 69 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 7'i 
 
 — 
 
 67 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 III 
 
 6-1 
 
 — 
 
 6-3 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 February 1 
 
 57 
 
 4 '4 
 
 5 9 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 4-6 
 
 3'3 
 
 4 '3 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 III 
 
 2-9 
 
 2"5 
 
 3 "6 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 March i 
 
 I 9 
 
 22 
 
 2'8 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 i"i 
 
 3'3 
 
 3'5 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 III 
 
 2'2 
 
 3'2 
 
 3 '4 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 April I 
 
 27 
 
 2 "3 
 
 2 '2 
 
 1 5 '4° 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 
 3'2 
 
 3 9 
 
 3 '4 
 
 3 "9° 
 
 8 
 
 — 
 
 III 
 
 3 '9 
 
 3 '4 
 
 3 "4 
 
 3"i7 
 
 6 . 
 
 — 
 
 May I 
 
 3'5 
 
 
 3'4 
 
 •85 
 
 6 
 
 — 
 
 
 2-9 
 
 4-2 
 
 3'3 
 
 2 "33 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 HI 
 
 2'5 
 
 37 
 
 2'8 
 
 1-27 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 June 1 
 
 I"I 
 
 2 "9 
 
 2'4 ll 2'46 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 
 I '2 
 
 22 
 
 2 '5 1' '26 
 
 I 
 
 — 
 
 III 
 
 2'I 
 
 2'3 
 
 2' I i '46 
 
 2 
 
 — 
 
 July I 
 
 2'2 
 
 1"2 
 
 I -2 : -08 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 ■7 
 
 - '2 
 
 - 'I M '20 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 HI 
 
 ■0 
 
 - I "2 
 
 - i'7 
 
 ■03 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 August 1 
 
 -0-6 
 
 - 2'I 
 
 - 2'3 
 
 2 '04 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 
 - I'O 
 
 - -8 
 
 - 2'4 
 
 2 '06 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 III 
 
 - I '3 
 
 - i'5 
 
 - 2'0 
 
 '00 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 September i 
 
 ■ - 3-8 
 
 -2-8 
 
 -4'i 
 
 '20 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 J 
 
 -5"i 
 
 -4T 
 
 - 5"2 
 
 ■87 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 III 
 
 - 5 '9 
 
 -6-1 
 
 -67 
 
 I 30 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 October i 
 
 -7;5 
 
 - 7'o 
 
 -7"3 
 
 •38 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 -87 
 
 -8'8 
 
 I '34 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 III 
 
 -98 
 
 -8-8 
 
 -97 
 
 2-8/ 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 November i 
 
 -8-6 
 
 -87 
 
 -7-6 
 
 3-66 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 
 -4'4 
 
 -4-2 
 
 - 2'7 
 
 7-21 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 III 
 
 - 2'3 
 
 - 17 
 
 - I'O 
 
 i'i8 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 December i 
 
 -0-9 
 
 - 2-3 
 
 - 17 
 
 3-46 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 
 - 2T 
 
 - 2'2 
 
 - 2'7 
 
 ■97 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 III 
 
 - 2'2 
 
 -3'4 
 o'o 
 
 -2'4 
 
 '21 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Year (Mean) 
 
 O'O 
 
 o'o - 
 
 - - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 January ^1897) i 
 
 -3'o 
 
 -3"5 
 
 -3"5 
 
 '08 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 - 27 
 
 -2'5 
 
 - 2'1 
 
 ■47 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 III 
 
 - I '9 
 
 -2'6 
 
 - i'9 j 
 
 I '20 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 February 1 
 
 -3-0 
 
 - 1*50 
 
 - i'55 ' 
 
 l'2I 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 II 
 
 - 2"0 
 
 -o'8o 
 
 - '17 
 
 ■^9 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 III 
 
 -17 
 
 - I "96 
 
 - '44 1 
 
 I '82 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 NOTES 
 
 The observations on the rise and fall of the level of Victoria Nyanza were begun in January 1S96, 
 by direction of Mr. Ernest J. I.. Berkeley, H. M.'s Commissioner, who placed this work under 
 the char>;e of Mr. R. J. D. Macallister. There are at present three stations — 
 
 Port Alice, or Ntclv, the Lake Port of the Capital. The observations are made daily at noon. 
 The observers were Major A. E. Smith (January), Mr. Alex. Geo. Boyle (February to September), 
 and Mr. Fred. Pordage. 
 
 Lulnva, near the outlet of the Victoria Nile. Observer, up to the beginning of February 1897, 
 Mr. W. Grant. 
 
 Port Victotia. on Berkeley Gulf, in the N.E. corner of the lake. Observer, up to the end of 
 iSq6, Mr. R. J. D. Macallister ; since that time, Mr. C. W. Fowler. 
 
 At Lubwa and Port Victoria the observations are made at 9.30 a.m. Observations on the 
 rain-fall are made at Port Alice only, no gauges being available. 
 
 Care has been taken, when fixin;^ the gauges, to prevent a subsequent settlement. 
 
 Oil beginning their work the observers were of necessity compelled to choose an arbitrary datum 
 level. In our abstract the datum level accepted is the mean level of the lake during 1S96.
 
 METEOROLOGY OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 677 
 
 In the accompanying taljles, the resnlts arc given by decades, as aI>o Ijy months. 
 
 In examining this interesting record it will l)e found that the influence of the niin-fall wpQw the 
 level of the lake is not so immediately apparent as might have been expected. Thus a rain-fall of 
 2'36 in. on November 14, 1896, only caused a rise of the lake to the extent of 0-75 in., and the 
 heavy rains during October and November (16-64 '"■) influenced the lake-level to the extent of 
 only about 5 in. Evaporation, no doubt, as also the irregular distribution of the rain.sover a lake 
 covering an area of 25,000 sq. miles, go far to explain this. 
 
 The ■n'inds exercise a decided influence upon the level. They arc regular land and lake breezes, 
 blowing off-shore 'from the E. or N.E.) in the morning, and changing about noon to W. or .S.W. 
 The lake breezes are more especially important, and ]\Ir. Macallister remarks that a strong S.W 
 breeze will cause a rise in the level of the lake to the extent of from r to 3 in. 
 
 As the observations at two of the stations are made in the morning, the actual mean level is 
 probably a little higher than it is made to appear from our abstract. In order to trace the influence 
 of the wind upon the lake level it would be necessary to establish a self-registering gauge, or to 
 make observations at least thrice daily. 
 
 Taking the mean of the three stations, we find that on January i, the level stood 7'8 in. above 
 the datum, whilst on December 31, it was 3 3 in. below it, a difference of ii'i in. The level was 
 highest in the beginning of the years; lowest {-9'2 in.) during the second decade of October. 
 The extreme range amounted to i8'2 in. (Port Alice ig'o in., Lubwa i7'5 in.. Port Victoria i8'2 in.) 
 
 It is desirable that similar observations should be made on the S.E. and W. shores of the lake. 
 The connection of these stations by lines of spirit levelling can hardly be looked for, for many 
 years to come.
 
 APPENDIX D 
 
 NOTES ON AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING 
 
 TREES 
 
 THEIR HABITAT, CULTIVATION, AND YIELD. 
 
 Report by Mr. Robert Cross on the Investigation and Collecting 
 of Plants and Seeds of the Indianibber Trees of Para 
 and Ceard} 
 
 "To THE Under-Sfx'RETary of State for India. 
 
 " G7V7'c Street., Edinbii}-g/i, 
 
 "■ Mareh 29, 1877. 
 
 "Sir, 
 
 " Respecting the service on which I have recently been 
 employed in the collecting of plants yielding the ParA india- 
 rubber of commerce, I now take the liberty to forward a 
 detailed account of my proceedings. 
 
 "On June 10, 1876, I left Liverpool by the ' Red Cross ' 
 steamer Cearense, which, after calling at Havre and Lisbon, 
 sailed direct for Para, which was reached on July 15. This 
 city is situated on the southern bank of the river Amazon, 
 which, at the point where it debouches to the sea, has a 
 breadth of thirty-three miles. Para is distant eighty miles 
 from the ocean. . . . 
 
 " I found on arrival, after considerable inquiry, that the 
 great field for caoutchouc collecting was the province of Para 
 and the islands which are scattered over the lower portion of 
 the Amazon river. Chief of these is the island of Marajo, 
 which is about the size of Holland. A good deal of the 
 rubber from the Rio Negro, Madeira, and other tributaries, 
 ajjpears to come in the form of ' negrohead,' or sernandn', 
 while the Para region seems to produce to a greater extent 
 the finer kinds of smoked biscuit rubber; the preparation is 
 attended to more carefull}^ besides \\'hich, the Para tree is 
 
 ' Reprinted by permission of the Secretary of State for India. The 
 section dealing with IJalsam of Copaiba is omitted. 
 
 678
 
 A^^ERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING TREES 679 
 
 reported to be a different variety. Its milk leaves no very 
 prominent stain on the hands or clothing, while the milk of 
 some of the varieties of rubber of the Upper Amazon gives 
 a black ink-like mark to the hands and clothes of the col- 
 lectors. Black rubber is stated by some to be deficient in 
 recoil or elasticity. In order to form and establish a collec- 
 tion of plants, and for the purpose of making the various 
 observations on the soil, climate, and mode of collecting and 
 preparing the rubber, it was necessary to obtain a place to 
 live in while so employed. Every one told me I would 
 experience great difficulty in finding a dwelling, and this 
 proved true. After travelling round Para and searching for 
 about eight days, I succeeded in hiring a house, but at a very 
 high rate, as the place was large and adapted for a family 
 with attendants and slaves. However, it was secure, and 
 offered every facility for my various requirements, which was 
 important. My next work was to examine the district where 
 the rubber trees grew. Mr. Henderson, who was known to 
 Dr. Spruce, kindly introduced me to an old rubber-collector 
 called Don Henrique, who undertook to lead the way to the 
 seringal, as the rubber locality is termed, but after disappoint- 
 ing me twice, I resolved to lose no more time, and procuring 
 from him the services of a lad as guide, I commenced to 
 inspect the forest. On July 25 I made a preliminary journey 
 to the region ^\'here the trees were wrought. 
 
 " The land around Para, including where the city stands, 
 rises from the banks of the river southward in the form of 
 gentle undulations, indented, however, in many places by 
 deep, gully-like natural ditches, called gnpos, which often 
 penetrate for many miles into the interior of this vast forest 
 region, and are filled dail}^ by diurnal tides. To those 
 navigable by canoes or sailing craft, the term ojacape is often 
 applied. The intervening land between the gapos is frequently 
 flat and moist, and owes its origin first to tidal deposits, and 
 afterwards is raised higher by the decayed remains of succes- 
 sional rank growths of vegetation. At a similar level to this, 
 we find a deposit approaching to clay or very fine sand and 
 mud, with here and there masses of sandstone or granite 
 cropping out. In every direction where a view can be 
 obtained, the country is seen to be covered by dense 
 exuberant forest. Leaving Para, I travelled over the high 
 ground for several miles, until the primitive forest was 
 reached, and then went down towards the gapos ; following 
 through the wood a path used by the caoutchouc collectors, 
 we soon came to a large tree in a state of deca)-, which had.
 
 68o APPENDIX D 
 
 been tapped many times. At first sight I felt extremely 
 puzzled and perplexed at the appearance it presented. From 
 the ground up to a height of lo or 12 feet, the trunk was 
 one swollen mass of warty protuberances and knots, covered 
 with thick scales and flakes of hard dry bark. 
 
 " This singular state of growth, the result of the practised 
 .system of taj^ping, has not yet been recorded by any one, 
 and so to me was unexpected. A few minutes of careful 
 examination soon .showed the cau.se of these deformities. 
 The collector makes use of a small axe-like instrument, an 
 inch broad. At each stroke he cuts through the bark and 
 into the wood for fully an inch. Hundreds of these are made 
 in the wood of each tree in the course of a few years, and 
 cannot heal under an\' circumstances, but a la}-er of wood is 
 formed over the injured part, at the expense of the bark and 
 general \-italit}' of the tree. The newly-formed wood is again 
 cut into and splintered, and so the process is repeated on 
 each successive layer, and the trunk becomes merely a mass 
 of twisted, wrinkled wood, with very thin insipid bark. In 
 this condition hardly any milk flows from the cuts, and 
 although for years a few green leaves ma}' continue to sprout 
 from the point of the twigs, }'et the tree may be considered 
 as dead, and, in fact, finally withers away. It is therefore the 
 injury done to the wood, and not overtapping, which lessens 
 the flow of the milk and ultimately causes the death of the 
 tree. The cuts in the wood are of course unnecessar}', since 
 the milk is met with onl}' in the bark. The healing-over 
 process which afterwards takes place, is similar to that .seen 
 where a branch has been lopped from a trunk. The wood is 
 compact and rather hard, and for this reason the tree lives on 
 for a number of years, although cut and hacked every season; 
 but the flow of milk becomes .so lessened, that many are 
 practicalh' abandoned for years before they die. This and 
 .several large adjoining trees were growing in moist, deep, 
 heavy soil of a fertile character, but quite out of the reach of 
 any inundation. 
 
 " On August 2 I went in search of plants, and descended 
 to the region of the gapos. It had rained a good deal 
 previously, and the collectors' footpaths were ankle-deep in 
 mud. After wading several little pools, we came to a deep 
 gapo, into which the tide flowed. It was connected with 
 several lesser watercourses, which formed a kind of network, 
 extending over a wide district of forest-covered countr}-, the 
 more elevated parts of which were raised onl}- from 3 to 
 4 feet above the highest tides. A considerable number of 
 
 I
 
 AMERICAN RURIJER.PRODUCING TREES 68i 
 
 rubber trees grew along the margins of both the larger and 
 smaller streams, intermixed with cacao and forest trees. 
 Three were observed, the base of the trunks of which were 
 flooded to a height of i foot, yet the roots seemed to run 
 up to the brow of the bank, and no matted rootlets were 
 observed, as is the case with the willow tree when growing on 
 the margin of a rivulet. Most of the others occupied dry 
 situations. Those gcxpo ditches were lined with soft rich mud, 
 no doubt possessing great fertility. The exhalations from 
 such places, shrouded by a forest-growth of 80 to 100 feet 
 high, were sensibly felt, and on nearly every occasion when 
 I visited these localities, I experienced slight attacks of fever 
 afterwards. The collectors also, during the working season, 
 are often indisposed from the same cause. Although the 
 forest was excessively damp, yet tapping was being carried 
 on, as a man was seen mixing up some clay at the side of a 
 gapo. A number of good plants were met with beneath the 
 oldest trees. The seedlings did not usually grow in any 
 place \\'here the ground was coxered by more than 2 or 
 3 inches of water at flood-tide. However, by far the 
 greatest number were met with on sites above the reach of 
 the highest tides. I measured a few of the largest trees, all 
 of which had been tapped for periods varying from five to 
 fifteen years. Those found growing in shallow gapo ditches 
 are preceded by an asterisk. The circumference of each one 
 yard from the ground was as follows — 
 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 
 Ft. In, 
 
 No. I . 
 
 .. 6 9 
 
 No. 7 . 
 
 ..40 
 
 „ 2 . 
 
 .. 6 10 
 
 „ 8 . 
 
 .. 5 10 
 
 „ 3 • 
 
 ••4 7 
 
 . „ 9 • 
 
 ..40 
 
 „ 4 • 
 
 •• 3 
 
 „ 10 . 
 
 ..46 
 
 S, 5 • 
 
 .. 5 10 
 
 „ 1 1 
 
 .. 4 8 
 
 „ 6 . 
 
 •• 5 3 
 
 * 12 
 
 ..28 
 
 Most trees occurring within the limits of the worked district 
 are tapped if possessing a diameter of 6 or 8 inches. 
 Regularly tapped trees do not, as a rule, exceed 60 feet in 
 height. 
 
 "■August 7. — I went in search of more plants, and on the 
 lOth made another collection. About 2000 in all were 
 obtained, but a number had to be rejected. I had cases 
 previously made, so that I was able to plant the plants in 
 them without delay. The soil consisted of decayed leaves 
 brought from the forest. The rougher portions were charred 
 and put into the bottoms of the cases, to serve as a sort of
 
 682 APPENDIX I) 
 
 drainage. Then a layer mixed with some wood-ashes was 
 placed above the plants planted therein. Four ca.ses, con- 
 tainini^ ui)wards of looo plants, were finished in this way, 
 one being reserved for the copaiba, or any other sort of 
 rubber plants I might meet with. While the plants were 
 being established, I commenced a series of experiments, in 
 order to ascertain how the tree might be readily multiplied in 
 a simple rough way by any person not specially acquainted 
 with the ])rinciples of propagation. Two separate beds, the 
 one of brown sand, the other of decayed leaves, were formed. 
 The terminal portion of shoots, but with a bud at the lower 
 end, were planted in the beds in a reclining position, with 
 only 2 inches of the buds above the ground. Owing to 
 the great distance between the buds, consequent on vigorous 
 growth, many of the cuttings were a foot or more in length. 
 At the same time a number were set in an open vessel con- 
 taining only rain-water. The cuttings in the sand-bed were 
 the first to grow, and soon made strong shoots and root- 
 fibres. Those in the leaf-mould pushed more slowly, but 
 developed green leaflets of great substance. The cuttings 
 placed in the water had a small portion of tap-root at the 
 base, as the object was to determine if the roots would 
 actually develop in water alone. Within fourteen days 
 these plants had several roots formed, and one or two rather 
 weak growths came up, but a few days after I had thrown 
 into the water some burnt earth and wood-ashes, the increase 
 in vigour was very apparent. After these experiments, I felt 
 convinced that the Para rubber tree delights in abundance of 
 moisture and rich fertile deposits. 
 
 '■'■ MetJiod adopted in tapping the trees. — When the plants were 
 somewhat established, I resolved to examine attentively the 
 process of tapping as practised by the caoutchouc collectors. 
 In the investigation of the subject, I tra\elled over a very 
 wide extent of flat forest countr}-, much divided b}' miry 
 hollows and tidal gapos, which stretched along the bank of the 
 river Guama. Although the river is at least three times as 
 broad as the Thames at London Bridge, it is not to be seen 
 on any ordinary map. In the region alluded to there were 
 hundreds of trees wrought by different collectors, each of 
 whom had a separate piece of land to work on. When on 
 these excursions, I had to go away from my place of abode 
 at about three o'clock in the morning, as I had some miles to 
 travel over paths not always in good condition, and it was 
 necessary to be as near as possible to the spot where the 
 tapping operations were jocrformed, because the collectors
 
 AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING TREES 683 
 
 begin to work immediately at da\break, or as soon as they 
 can see to move about among the trees. They say that the 
 milk flows more freel\- and in greater quantities at earl)- morn. 
 I do not attach much importance to this statement, but I 
 have recorded it. Another and more probable reason is, 
 that as rain often falls about two or three o'clock in the after- 
 noon, the tapping must be done earl)-, as in the event of a 
 shower the milk would be spattered about and lost. The 
 collector, first of all, at the beginning of the dry season, goes 
 round and lays down at the base of each tree a certain number 
 of small cups of burnt clay. At the lesser trees only three or 
 four are put, but at the larger ones from eight to twelve are 
 deposited. The footpaths leading from tree to tree are like- 
 wise cleared of sapling growth, and the bridges over the 
 gapos formed at each place b\- the trunk of a tree are, where 
 necessar}-, replaced. On proceeding to his work, the collector 
 takes with him a small axe for tapping, and a wicker basket 
 containing a good-sized ball of well -wrought clay. He 
 usualh' has likewise a bag for the waste droppings of rubber, 
 and for what ma)' adhere to the bottoms of the cups. These 
 promiscuous gatherings are termed scrnaviby, and are the 
 ' negrohead ' of the English market. The cups, as already 
 stated, are of burnt clay, and are sometimes round, but more 
 frequently flat or slightly concave on one side, so as to stick 
 easily when with a small portion of clay they are stuck against 
 the trunk of the tree. The contents of fifteen cups make 
 one English imperial pint. Arriving at a tree, the collector 
 takes the axe in his right hand, and, striking in an upward 
 direction as high as he can reach, makes a deep, upward- 
 sloping cut across the trunk, which always goes through the 
 bark and penetrates an inch or more into the wood. The cut 
 is an inch in breadth. Frequently a small portion of bark 
 breaks off from the upper side, and occasionally a thin splinter 
 of wood is also raised. Quickly stooping down, he takes a 
 cup, and pasting on a small quantity of cla}' on the flat side, 
 presses it to the trunk close beneath the cut. By this time 
 the milk, which is of dazzling whiteness, is beginning to 
 exude, so that, if necessary, he so smoothes the clay that it 
 may trickle directly into the cup. At a distance of 4 or 5 
 inches, but at the same height, another cup is luted on, and 
 so the process is continued until a row of cups encircles the 
 tree at a height of about 6 feet from the ground. Tree after 
 tree is treated in like manner, until the tapping required for 
 the day is done. This work should be concluded by nine or 
 ten o'clock in the morning, because the milk continues to
 
 684 APPENDIX D 
 
 exude slowly from the cuts for three hours, or perhaps longer. 
 I may state that there is a great difference among collectors 
 in the performance of those duties. Some take care to get 
 good clay previously and incorporate it well, so that a very 
 small portion is necessary to lute the cups to the trunks ; 
 they also work with neatness and intelligence, and invariably 
 collect a good quantity of milk. Others, again, do not take 
 the trouble to prepare clay beforehand, but merely scrape up 
 a handful when they require it at the side of* a gapo, which is 
 often of little consistence, so that a large quantity is required 
 to fasten the cups. This class of collectors ha\-e often many 
 fragments of clay or other impurities in their milk, the result 
 of not following a proper method of working. The quantity 
 of milk that flows from each cut varies ; but if the tree is 
 large, and has not been much tapped, the majority of the 
 cuiDS will be more than half full, and occasionally a few may 
 be filled to the brim. But if the tree is much gnarled from 
 tapping, whether it grows in the rich sludge of the gapo or 
 dry land, many of the cups will be found to contain only 
 about a tablespoonful of milk, and sometimes hardly that. 
 On the following morning the operation is performed in the 
 same way, only that the cuts or gashes beneath which the 
 cups are placed, are made from 6 to 8 inches lower down the 
 trunks than those of the previous day. Thus each day brings 
 the cups gradually lower until the ground is reached. The 
 collector then begins as high as he can reach, and descends 
 as before, taking care, however, to make his cuts in separate 
 places from those previously made. If the yield of milk from 
 a tree is great, two rows of cups are put on at once, the one 
 as high as can be reached, the other at the surface of the 
 ground, and in the course of working, the upper row descend- 
 ing daily 6 or 8 inches, while the lower one ascends the same 
 distance, both rows in a few days come together. When the 
 produce of milk diminishes in long wrought trees, two or 
 three cups are put on various parts of the trunk where the 
 bark is thickest. Although many of the trees of this class are 
 large, the supply of milk obtained is surprisingly little. This 
 state of things is not the result of overtapping, as some have 
 stated. Indeed, I do not believe it is possible to overtap a 
 tree, if in the operation the wood is not left bare or injured. 
 But at every stroke the collector's axe enters the wood, and 
 the energies of the tree are required in forming new layers to 
 cover those numerous wounds. The best milk-yielding tree 
 I examined had the marks of twelve rows of cups which 
 had already been put on this season. The rows were onl)^ 6
 
 AMERICAN RUlJliER-PRODUCIXG TREES 68; 
 
 inches apart, and in each row there were six cups, so that the 
 total number of wood cuts within the space of three months 
 amounted to se\-enty-two. It grew close to a gapo only 8 
 inches above high-tide mark, and being a vigorous tree, the 
 cups were general!)' well filled, but with two years or so of 
 such treatment, the tree would probably be permanently in- 
 jured. It has been supposed that the quality of the milk is 
 better in the dry season than during the rains. Such is the 
 case with some vegetable products, but as regards indiarubber 
 there ought not, I think, to be any appreciable difference. In 
 the rainy season the milk probably contains a greater pro- 
 portion of water ; but, on the other hand, I am of opinion 
 that then a larger quantity of milk flows from the tree. No 
 doubt the dry season is the most suitable for caoutchouc 
 collecting, although whenever a plantation is formed with a 
 preparing house, convenient tapping may certainly be always 
 carried on when the weather is fine. It is a common report 
 that the trees yield the greatest quantity of milk at full moon. 
 In order to ascertain this, a number of very careful experi- 
 ments would have to be made, extending over one or two 
 years. Even if such an assertion was found to be true, it 
 would probably make little difference, as tapping will have 
 to be carried on when circumstances are most favourable. 
 
 " There are two other methods adopted in tapping which are 
 chiefly confined to the Upper Amazon and tributaries. Both 
 are exactly on the same principle, the materials used being 
 only a little different. The loose outside bark of the tree is 
 cleaned off to a height of about 3 feet. Beneath, a gutter or 
 raised border of clay is pasted or luted to the trunk, enclosing 
 one-half of the entire circumference. Cuts are thickly made 
 in the bark above this, from which the milk flows down to 
 the gutter, whence it is conveyed to fall into a calabash, con- 
 veniently placed. The other mode is by binding round the 
 trunk the stout flexible stem of a climber, and claying it 
 round securely so that no milk might escape between the 
 trunk and the climber. These plans are not extensively 
 adopted, and can only be successfully put in practice where 
 the trees have not been previously tapped. There is always 
 a great deal of ' negrohead,' the result of the distance the 
 milk has to run, and of the large quantity of clay employed 
 in the process. 
 
 " Collection of the milk. — Going from tree to tree at a sort 
 of running pace, the collector empties the contents of the cup 
 into a large calabash which he carries in his hand. As he 
 pours the milk out of each cup, he draws his thumb or fore-
 
 686 APPENDIX D 
 
 finger over the bottom to clean out some which otherwise 
 would adhere. Indeed, a small quantity does remain, which 
 is afterwards drawn off and classed as semamby. The cups, 
 on being emptied, are laid in a little heap at the base of each 
 tree, to be ready for the following morning. The trees occur 
 at various distances from lo to loo yards apart, and as I 
 travelled over the intricate network of muddy footpaths, I 
 continually felt perplexed and surprised that the natives have 
 not yet seen the advantages which would be derived by form- 
 ing plantations, whereby more than twice the quantity of 
 caoutchouc might be collected in one-fourth of the time, and 
 at far less cost and labour. 
 
 "Method of preparing the rubber. — The collectors of the region 
 I visited, resorted with their milk to a large shed situated on 
 the bank of the river Guama. Here were quantities of various 
 species of palm-nuts, representing an Attalea and Euterpe 
 edulis, stored in heaps, and several jars for the preparation of 
 rubber. These jars were i8 inches high, and the bottoms 
 were broken out. At the base they were 7 inches in diameter, 
 bulging out in the middle to 12 inches, and were narrowed 
 at the mouth to a breadth of 2 inches. Each person wrought 
 on his own account, and so small jars were employed, but 
 where a number of men are collecting for one master, much 
 larger jars are in use. The milk on being put into a large 
 flat earthen vessel, is put down on the floor in a convenient 
 place. Adjacent thereto the jar is set on three small stones, 
 which raises it to U inches above the floor. The narrow- 
 space between the base of the jar and the floor allows the air 
 to enter, which causes a current of smoke to ascend with 
 remarkable regularity and force. When the fire commences 
 to burn strongly, several handfuls of nuts are put on, then 
 some more wood and nuts alternatel}-. These are dropped 
 in at the mouth of the jar until it is filled to within 4 inches 
 of the top. Due care is taken that a sufficient proportion of 
 wood is put in with the nuts. The mould on which the 
 rubber is prepared resembles the paddle of a canoe ; in fact, 
 in many places on the Amazon this is the article most 
 frequently used if there is much milk, and when the rubber 
 is prepared in bulky masses. Occasionally the mould is 
 slung to the roof, as the weight of handling it during the 
 process would otherwise be very fatiguing. A little soft clay 
 is rubbed over it to prevent the rubber from adhering, and it 
 is afterwards well warmed in the smoke. The operator holds 
 the mould with one hand, while with the other he takes a 
 small cup and pours two or three cups of milk over it. He
 
 AMERICAN RU1'.1;ER-PR()DUCING TREES 687 
 
 turns it on edge for a few moments above the dish until the 
 drops fall, then quickly places the flat side 2 inches above the 
 jar mouth and moves it swiftly round, as if describing the 
 form of a cipher with his hand, so that the current of smoke 
 may be equally distributed. The opposite side of the mould 
 is treated in the same way. The coating of milk on the 
 mould on being held over the smoke immediately assumes 
 a yellowish tinge, and although it appears to be firm when 
 touched, is yet found to be soft and juicy, like newly-curdled 
 cheese, and sweating water profusely. When layer after 
 layer has been repeated, and the mass is of sufficient thickness, 
 it is laid down on a board to solidify, and in the morning is 
 cut open along the edge on one side and the mould taken 
 out. Biscuit rubber, when fresh, is often 4 or 5 inches thick. 
 On being hung up to dry for a few days, it is sent to market. 
 When I saw the process of smoking the rubber performed, as 
 just described, I was considering the statements of Keller and 
 other travellers who write on this subject, all of whom seem 
 to belie\"e that the smoke from the palm-nuts possesses some 
 peculiar or strange property by which means the milk instantly 
 coagulates. But on one occasion, when the collector was 
 commencing to smoke some milk, I saw him wait for a short 
 time and put his hand repeatedly to the mouth of the jar, and 
 soon I learned that he could do nothing until the smoke was 
 hot. The dense white smoke rose abundantly, but the milk 
 would not thicken on the mould. After a little while the jar 
 became heated, and the operation went on quite satisfactorily. 
 I put my hand above the mouth of the jar, but could bear 
 the heat scarcely a second, and although the temperature 
 of the smoke was apparently less than that of boiling water, 
 yet I judged it must have been at least 180° Fahrenheit. 
 Therefore the rapid coagulation of the milk is simply pro- 
 duced by the high temperature of the smoke. I have no 
 doubt that with a strong current of heated air, or a good 
 pressure of steam from a pipe, a similar result would be 
 obtained. The finely-divided particles of soot, which forms 
 a large proportion of the smoke, undoubtedly absorb a con- 
 siderable amount of moisture, although at the same time it 
 must be looked on as an impurity. I have no hesitation in 
 giving my opinion that equally as good rubber could be pre- 
 pared by putting the milk in shallow vessels, and evaporating 
 the watery particles by the heat of boiling water. 
 
 " Temperature of the Para rubber district. — The region of 
 the Para rubber tree has a sustained high temperature, a fact 
 that has already been remarked b)' Dr. Spruce and other
 
 688 APPENDIX I J 
 
 travellers. The lowest I could record was 73°, but Mr. 
 Henderson assured me he had frequently seen it down to 
 72", and I have the statement of another observer, on whom 
 I could rely, that on one occasion the thermometer fell to 
 65". The place, however, where this observation was made 
 was fully 100 miles to the westward of Para. In the neigh- 
 bourhood rubber trees abounded. 
 
 " Sites, propagation, and planting in India. — The sites most 
 suitable for planting this tree will be found in the hottest 
 l)arts of India. The flat, low-lying, moist tracts, lands subject 
 to inundation, shallow lagoons, water-holes, and all descrip- 
 tions of mud accumulations, miry swamps, and banks of 
 sluggish streams and rivers, will be found best adapted. The 
 tree will also grow perfectly in deep, humid land, fitted for 
 cane or coffee planting. The Malay peninsula, Burmah, the 
 island of Ceylon, and the southern portion of India on to 
 about as far north as 20" north latitude, should possess many 
 localities proper. 
 
 "The temperature of rain-water varied from 74° to 75" for 
 planting. But in no place would I recommend the formation 
 of a plantation where the thermometer at any time falls 
 below 60° Fahrenheit. 
 
 "It seems to me that the propagation and planting may 
 generally be combined in one operation, the object being to 
 reduce the expense, simplify and accelerate the work, and 
 promote the more perfect development of the primary roots 
 and trunk. The green-coloured terminal shoots of succulent 
 growth, with the leaves fully matured, make the best cuttings. 
 These should be cut off low enough so that there is a joint at 
 the base. When it is desirable to plant in dry, firm land, a 
 spadeful of soil should be turned over at each place, and the 
 cutting planted in a sloping position. It should be covered 
 with mould to within 3 inches of the point. That portion 
 above ground should rest on the earth on one side to its 
 termination, so as not to suffer during hot sunshine. In all 
 stages the crowns of the plants may be exposed to the rays 
 of the sun. Plants intended for cutting stocks may be 
 planted in open places, in the richest dark loam capable of 
 producing a luxuriant rank crop of sugar-cane. Seeds might 
 be planted out permanently at once, also in the same way as 
 the cuttings. These would prosper much better if, at the 
 time of planting, a handful of wood-ashes were added to the 
 soil with each seed. Good ashes may be obtained by the 
 burning of any descrii)tion of green wood or newh-felled 
 piece of forest. If the wood is allowed to rot before burning,
 
 AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING. TREES 689 
 
 almost the whole of the fertilizing principle will be found to 
 have vanished. If stored in a damp place, the value of the 
 product is diminished. For planting on inundated lands, the 
 period of high flood should be preferred. Cuttings of greater 
 length would be required in this case, the lower ends of 
 which should be sliced off in the form of a wedge. The 
 workman could take a bundle of these, and wading into the 
 water would plant at proper distances, but perfectly upright, 
 taking care to push each cutting down deep enough in 
 the soft muddy bottom, so that not more than three or four 
 inches is above the surface of the water. The same rule 
 would be applicable when planting in sludge or soft marsh 
 land. The crowns of the cuttings must not, if possible, be 
 put under water, as the young growths springing therefrom 
 might rot. Seeds will not be found very applicable for plant- 
 ing in watery places or deep mud deposits. Some would 
 come up, but a good many would mould and decay. In the 
 varied course of circumstances and conditions, slight changes 
 and modifications in the methods of working will no doubt 
 suggest themselves. I would not advocate, at least for the 
 present, the extensive planting of this tree in fertile, cane- 
 producing lands, because in such a description of soil it would 
 not be able to compete with the Central American rubber 
 tree, already introduced from the State of Panama, which 
 grows rapidly to a much greater size and yields a far larger 
 quantity of caoutchouc. It should rather be planted in 
 places where nothing else could be profitably cultivated, such 
 as frequently inundated river margins, marsh land, and mud 
 deposits. Above 4000 tons of Para rubber are exported 
 annually. 
 
 "CEARA RUBBER. 
 
 " Examination and collection of Seeds and Plants of Ccard 
 Indiantbbcr. — On the morning of the 26th, I went on shore, 
 as I wished to gain some knowledge of the method adopted 
 in preparation and collection of the rubber exported from 
 Ceara. I had to land from the ship in a jangada, \\'hich is 
 a craft 12 or 14 feet in length, formed of moderately-sized 
 trunks of a tree fastened together, and furnished with a mast 
 and large sail. A piece of board, a foot in breadth and 4 feet 
 long, is pushed down in the middle between two logs, to 
 serve as a keel. The tree selected for those rafts has a 
 peculiarly light wood, said to be brought from Bahia or 
 Pernambuco. With a good fair wind they are said to run 
 
 V V
 
 690 APPENDIX D 
 
 sometimes at the rate of 15 knots an hour. The surf is so 
 strong that no boat or canoe could often reach the shore 
 safely. Even the jangadas are sometimes overturned, and 
 when this happens there is a risk of getting a blow from the 
 timbers of the raft, a danger considered greater than the sea. 
 In the town I saw a large quantity of rubber in a merchant's 
 store, and afterward observed that it was freely traded in by 
 most classes of shopkeepers. I expected to have seen the 
 tree yielding it somewhere near, but after travelling about 
 over the sand-hills and adjoining country for the greater part 
 of the day, I returned to the ship completely tired. I was 
 assured b}' a native, \\ho said he knew the Para rubber tree 
 and that of Ceara, that both were completely identical. But 
 the great diversity in the climate induced me to think differ- 
 ently, and so I resolved to follow out the dictates of my own 
 judgment, and not be influenced by any one until I could 
 satisfy myself on the matter. Yet there was little time to 
 explore, as the steamer was expected to leave in a very few 
 days. Next morning an Indian from the interior happened 
 to come on board the ship, and I took the opportunity of 
 asking him the names of some of the villages and localities 
 in the retired districts. I knew from previous travelling a 
 good number of the Indian substantives with their meanings, 
 and this, together with further conversation, enabled me to 
 form some idea of the character of the region where the 
 rubber was collected. A single line of rail, formed to facilitate 
 the transport of sugar and cotton, runs from Ceara into the 
 interior to a place called Pacatuba, distant about forty miles. 
 Contiguous are a number of large plantations with some 
 slaves. On Sunday, October 29, I landed with the jangada, 
 and proceeded through the town to the railway-station. I 
 had previously arranged with a native to accompany me, but 
 he did not appear, so I went off alone. Leaving" Ceara, a 
 flat, parched-up region was traversed, diversified by a few 
 undulations and moist hollows. Thorny thickets of bushes 
 and slender trees, chiefly myrtles and legumes, overspread 
 the country, with many groups of the carnauba palm, Copcr- 
 nicia cerifcra, rising high above the ordinary vegetation. The 
 crowns of these palm trees waved about b}^ the wind and 
 visible over such a wide expanse presented an appearance 
 extremely picturesque, whilst in the distance beyond rose a 
 multitude of conical peaks and mountains, the whole com- 
 bining to form a landscape of surpassing beauty. After a 
 journc}' of two hours, I stopped at a little village with about 
 a dozen thatched houses, called Maracanahu. The distance
 
 AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING TREES 691 
 
 may be thirty miles from Ceara. I went to a man and boy 
 who were standing in front of a liut, and inade some proposals 
 to them to show me the locality where the rubber trees L(rew. 
 The man was advising the boy to accompany me, who seemed 
 rather reluctant, when a poor lad who had lost an arm came 
 up and at once consented to go with me. It was fortunate 
 I met with this one-armed lad, as I could hardly have suc- 
 ceeded so well with any one else. I told him I wanted first 
 to see trees that were being wrought, because I wished to 
 make sure of the tree, and also observe the method of collec- 
 tion. We proceeded along a dusty path for some distance, 
 at times running, as I proposed, if possible, to return with the 
 train which passed the village in the evening. Plantation 
 establishments were seen dispersed at wide intervals over the 
 country. Cultivation was only carried on in very low, moist 
 situations, or where the water during the rains was stored up 
 in artificial ponds for irrigation. Some of these were so large 
 that at first I took them to be natural lakes. -After travelling 
 for some time the lad turned from the path and dived into 
 the forest. In a few minutes he brought me among a number 
 of rubber trees which had recently been bled. The general 
 forest was tolerably high, but the sparse small foliage did not 
 afford much shade from the fierce rays of the sun. The soil 
 was in places a sort of soft sandsto.ne or gravel, which was 
 bound up in the most extraordinary manner. Neither grass 
 nor weeds grew among the underwood, and there was an 
 entire absence of ferns, mosses, and other plants. I soon saw 
 that the tree was totally different from the rubber tree of 
 Para, and also that it would probably thrive perfectly over a 
 very wide extent of the drier regions of India. At first sight 
 it much resembles in appearance a birch tree, and the surface 
 or epidermis of the bark comes off in the same way in thin 
 silvery peelings. The largest of the trees were about 50 feet 
 in height, with trunks 9 inches to a foot in diameter. The 
 crown is divided into many branches, which grow in the form 
 of a basket. The tree is deciduous, and there were neither 
 leaves, flowers, nor fruit to be seen. I spent some time in 
 examining attentively the process of bleeding the trees, and 
 then commenced to search for plants. A few were found 
 growing in an open space, but the roots were so firm that not 
 one could be pulled up. It seemed strange that the lad and 
 myself, exerting all our strength, could not pull up a young 
 seedling plant about 2 feet high. I went and got a pointed 
 branch of a hard-wood tree and scraped and dug about the 
 roots, and in this \va.y, with \-cry arduous work, during which
 
 692 APPENDIX D 
 
 I hurt and lacerated my hands, some plants were got up. 
 
 The real difficulty was now apparent. The roots of the plants 
 were furnished with tubers, the largest of which were about 
 the size of kidney potatoes. These tubers, although quite 
 near the surface, adhered with such tenacity to the sandstone, 
 or hard gravel, that most of them had to be smashed in order 
 to get away an uninjured portion of root with the stem. In 
 the }'oung state they are soft and spongy, and are seen to 
 contain milk, but afterwards become lengthened out and form 
 a part of the root. With diligent search and hard labour we 
 succeeded in collecting eighteen plants. At the station a 
 number of natives from Ceara gathered round the 'bundle of 
 sticks,' but could not make out what they were. However, an 
 old man from the forest district came up, and, peering through 
 the crowd, said, ' Manisoba.' This is the Indian name of 
 the rubber tree, which I knew before. I got back to Ceara 
 just before dark, and fortunately found a jaiigada, which put 
 me on board. Thus in one day I was fortunately able to 
 discover the origin of a tree, hitherto unknown and undescribed, 
 yielding an important article of commerce, and at the same 
 time resolved the mode of collection and preparation and 
 secured a number of plants. It is true I had no instructions 
 regarding this Ceara rubber plant, probably because it was 
 supposed to be the same as the Para tree. But I thought it 
 would be well to secure more plants, and told the owner of 
 the jangada to come for me in the morning. This sort of 
 raft was expensive, each voyage cost me three milreis (6.?.), 
 and I could not possibly have got one for less. The distance 
 was only about 300 yards. Next day the sea was very 
 rough, and three jatigadas^ one of ^\'hich carried the Brazilian 
 Government mails, were overturned in the surf The person 
 I arranged with came for me, and I embarked. Although 
 I was not in the least alarmed, the size and violence of the 
 waves completely surprised me, whilst the jangada at full 
 speed went groaning through the surf, covered by 9 inches 
 or a foot of water. I cannot help wondering that not a 
 farthing has been spent in improving the safety of these 
 Brazilian ports. 
 
 " Returning to Maracanahu, I proceeded to an adjacent 
 house, where I was previously told I could stay. The son of 
 the owner assisted me in obtaining a quantity of seeds, 700 
 in all. The ])ocls when ripe burst and go to pieces, and so 
 the seeds are showered on the ground. At da}'break next 
 day we went in search of jjlants. We brought a strong iron 
 hoe, as ni\- intentions were to take up a good number, for I
 
 AMERICAN RUIiBKK-l'KoDUCINC; TREES 693 
 
 did not place much confidence in the seeds, although I am 
 glad to state they have turned out well. Our course was 
 directed to a more distant part than I had previously visited. 
 Shortly after entering the bush-like forest we came on a 
 large tract of land covered by immense ma.sses of grey granite, 
 some of which might be 50 tons or more in weight. These 
 had been broken where they lay, and were the result of a 
 volcanic explosion. Rounded masses of the same rock also 
 cropped out in many places. Travelling now became very 
 difficult, as we had occasionally to scramble from one block 
 to another on our hands and knees. Many good-sized rubber 
 trees were growing in the spaces between those granite masses, 
 but no plants were seen. The situation was very dry, but 
 no doubt some seedlings had sprung up, which, owing to 
 numerous thickets of shrubs, were not perceived. After fully 
 an hour of tiresome exploring, I resolved to go back to the 
 place where I got plants previously. We there succeeded in 
 collecting a number, which, with those formerly gathered, 
 amounted in all to sixty. The handle of the hoe broke, for 
 which reason the work was not further prosecuted. Taking 
 with me the seeds and plants, I returned to the steamer in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 " System practised in Bleedijtg or Tapping the Trees, and 
 collecting tJie Rubber. — This is an operation of a very simple 
 description. On commencing to work the collector takes 
 with him a stout knife, and a handful of twigs to serve as a 
 broom. Arriving at a tree, any loose stones or dust are swept 
 from the ground around the base, and some large leaves are 
 laid down to receive the droppings of milk which trickle down. 
 Some do not go to the trouble of sweeping the ground or 
 laying down leaves, for which reason the milk adheres to sand, 
 dust, decayed leaves, and other impurities. The outer surface 
 of the bark of the trunk is pared or sliced off to a height of 4 
 or 5 feet. The milk then exudes and runs down in many 
 tortuous courses, some of it ultimately falling on the ground. 
 After several days the juice becomes dry and solid, and is 
 then pulled off in strings and rolled up in balls, or put into 
 bags in loose masses ; only a thin paring should be taken off 
 just deep enough to reach the milk vessels ; but this is not 
 always attended to. Nearly every tree has been cut through 
 the bark, and a slice taken off the wood. Decay then proceeds 
 rapidly, and many of the trunks are hollow. In this con- 
 dition the tree must yield far less milk, and many, no doubt, 
 are broken over by the wind or wither away. Collecting is 
 carried on in the dry season only, when rain seldom falls.
 
 694 Al'I'l'-NDIX D 
 
 " Clivuitc and 'J\'iiipcnitiirc.—'\\\^ flat country from Ceara, 
 runnini^ back to tlic mountains, in which the tree abounds, 
 manifestly possesses a very dry, arid climate for a considerable 
 part of the year. This is evident from the fact that uumdioca 
 (cassava) and other crops require to be irrigated. The rainy 
 season is said to begin in November, and end in Mayor June. 
 Torrents of rain are then reported to fall for several days in 
 succession, after which the weather moderates for a brief space. 
 According to some statements, there are occasional years when 
 hardly any rain falls. This assertion concurs with the aspect 
 presented by the country in general. The daily temperature 
 on board the ship varied from 82' to 85" Fahrenheit, but 
 inland it is often probably 90". 
 
 " The localities traversed by me nowhere seemed to be 
 elevated more than 200 feet above the sea. The situations 
 selected for cultivation in India should possess a rather dry 
 and sustained high temperature. In the comparatively low- 
 lying coast country of the southern jjortion of the peninsula 
 of India, including the districts of Madras, Cochin, Calicut, 
 Cannanore, Mangalore, and Bombay, will be found many 
 localities possessing all the conditions essential for the growth 
 of Ceara rubber. The plant might likewise be tried in the 
 deep tropical valleys of Assam, and, indeed, in all the parched 
 regions of India within the limits of coffee planting. It may 
 not be safe, at least until some experience is gained, to plant 
 in any locality where the temperature at any time of the year 
 falls below 50"^ Fahrenheit. 
 
 " Propagation and Planting. — Seeds are earl}' produced if the 
 tree is not shaded. They should be buried in brown sand, 
 kept pretty moist until there are indications of growth, when 
 they may be planted out permanently. In some situations 
 where the ground is rough and strong, they might be sown 
 broadcast. Meantime, I would suggest the formation of 
 plantations by cuttings, which will take place as easily as a 
 willow. These should be taken from the points of strong 
 shoots, and may be one foot in length. In planting, each 
 cutting may be put down in the soil to a depth of 6 inches. 
 If scarce, the entire shoot may be cut into pieces, each 
 possessing a bud, all of which will grow, if covered with half- 
 an-inch or so of soil. On loose sandy soils, or exhausted 
 coffee lands, plantations may be formed at little expense. 
 Dry, hard, gravelly wastes, if found to support an\' kind of 
 bush, are also suitable sites. Holes might be made in strong 
 lands with an iron jumper, and a stout cutting put into each, 
 and filled with pebbles. On bare and thinly-covered rocks
 
 AMERICAN. RUBBER-l'KODUCINC; TREKS 695 
 
 the cuttiny,"s miy;ht be laid down flat, and a little heap of 
 stones or any kind o{ debris about the size of a mole-hill piled 
 on each, care beini^ taken that the extreme point of each 
 cutting' with a bud is left uncovered. I do not advocate 
 planting in an entirely barren desert, but wherever there is any 
 kind of stunted tree or scrub vegetation, with an occasional 
 sprinkling from a monsoon shower, the tree is likely to 
 prosper. Ceara rubber occupies a good position in the 
 market. The export has been stated to amount io 1000 tons 
 per annum. 
 
 '•'■ Spcciinciis of Luiiarnbbcr. — I have forwarded to Mr. Mark- 
 ham the following specimens of caoutchouc No. i, prepared 
 as follows — ^An imperial pint of rubber-milk was put into a 
 tin can previously blackened, and exposed for fully two hours 
 to the sun during the hottest part of the day. The lid of the 
 can was put down close. The temperature obtained exceeded 
 120'^, but only about half the milk coagulated. The mass was 
 pressed, when a whey-like juice came from it freely. It was 
 then put to dry. No. 2 formed the remaining portion of the 
 milk. It was put in a shallow tin vessel, and evaporated at 
 212". Every drop of the milk coagulated. The entire pro- 
 duce of the pint was found to weigh 10 ounces. This yield 
 exceeds any calculation I have seen on the subject, but I did 
 everything correctly. In the process followed with No. i, it 
 was probably the richest portion of the milk that thickened, 
 as may happen in the same way with various principles 
 obtained from vegetable structure. 
 
 " Nos. 3 and 4 comprise a 'biscuit' and half a biscuit of 
 rubber, prepared by the smoking process, as already described. 
 These and the previous preparations are from trees, whence 
 the plants were obtained yielding the white variety. It 
 abounds chiefly in the lower districts of the Amazon valley. 
 
 " No. 5. A choice sample of seasoned rubber, kindly selected 
 for me by her Britannic Majesty's Consul, Mr. Green. 
 
 " No. 6. This is a black sort of rubber, and in appearance 
 agrees perfectly with a species described by Dr. Spruce, which 
 he saw wrought on a tributary of the Upper Amazon. Some 
 Para merchants say it is not so elastic as the white variety. 
 
 " No. 7. The best kind of ' negrohead,' ox sernmiiby, resulting 
 from detached portions, and dropj^ing during the smoking 
 operations. 
 
 " No. 8. ' Negrohead,' (jr scnuxinby, being the gatherings 
 from tapping cups. 
 
 " No. 9. A small piece of I'ara rubber, prepared b\- the 
 German method with alum. A few grains of finely-powdered
 
 696 APPENDIX D 
 
 alum were thrown into a little milk and stirred, when it 
 coac^ulated in less than a minute. 
 
 "No. 10. 'Mangaba' rubber, obtained from a shrub {Ilan- 
 cornia species) growing along the southern coast of Brazil. 
 German merchants have taught the natives to prepare it with 
 alum, — it brings a low price in the market. 
 
 " No. 1 1. Ceara rubber of commerce, now being introduced 
 into India. 
 
 " Observations relating to the Rubber-producing Tree of Central 
 America. — I will now add a few remarks concerning this tree, 
 which I collected in the interior of the Isthmus of Panama 
 towards the latter end of 1875. This, because I think it has 
 not received the attention it deserves. There are now a good 
 collection of plants at Kew, and I am surprised that more 
 have not been sent to India. 
 
 " The tree inhabits wooded regions near Guayaquil and 
 Buenaventura, and has likewise been met w^ith abundantly in 
 the State of Panama, and in the Republics of Costa Rica, 
 Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala, and Mexico. It is one of 
 the largest and most massive of the trees of western tropical 
 America. The trunk often attains to a surprising thickness 
 and height, yielding in some instances above a hundred 
 pounds of indiarubJaer. The wood is extremely soft, and 
 when cut into, decays rapidly. The destructive method of 
 cutting down the tree to be tapped, has exhausted extensive 
 rubber localities, and although others may be opened up, yet 
 the supply is certain to diminish at no distant date. Even 
 where the trees are not felled, as in Nicaragua, the method of 
 tapping, by which the wood is injured, is so unskilful, that it 
 has been considered by some as preferable to cut the tree 
 down at once. The climate of various of these districts is 
 hostile and severe, and some places, such as the forest regions 
 of Ikienaventura and Choco, have no parallel in the universe. 
 Throughout the State of Panama, drenching rains are of 
 almost daily occurrence, and occasionally, on the Atlantic 
 side, hurricane blasts make avenues in the forest. 
 
 " The district investigated by me, and where the plants were 
 collected, was reached by ascending for some distance the 
 river Chagres, and then travelling for several miles through 
 a stately forest, into the heart of the isthmus. The trees seen 
 exceeded in height and dimensions those met with in the 
 wooded districts of the Amazon. An undergrowth of a thorn}^ 
 wild pineapple {Broniclia), 10 feet in height, everywhere formed 
 extensive thickets. Large powerful snakes were numerous, 
 and so audacious that the}' deliberatel)- rose to strike at any
 
 AMERICAN RUniSER-PRODUCINc; TREES 697 
 
 (jne who approached. The young rubber sa[)lings were found 
 growing most abundantly on the banks of cool, clear, running 
 streams and little dribbling rivulets. The roots could easily 
 be traced over the surface of the ground running down to the 
 very surface of the water. But the tree grew also on eminences, 
 steep declivities, and varied elevations, and in such abundance 
 that the first explorers gave the name of 'Caoutchouc Hill' 
 to a height which they found crowned with a forest almost 
 entirely composed of rubber trees. It was not seen growing 
 anywhere in swamp or marsh land. Although the rubber 
 districts are proverbially rainy, yet the tree was seen by me 
 growing beside a stream on the border of a desert tract of 
 country bounding the Gulf of Guayaquil, where only a few 
 light showers of rain fell during the year. On both sides of 
 the stream there was a strip of good forest, but beyond, 
 thickets of cactecs and low spreading legumes formed the 
 characteristic vegetation. I mention the fact to show that the 
 tree will probably succeed well in regularly irrigated districts, 
 even if the atmosphere be dry and dusty. The temperature 
 in the woods of the isthmus ranged from 75 to 88 Fahrenheit. 
 Rain-water, examined the moment it fell, was never found to 
 be below 74°. The usual practice in collecting the milk was 
 by felling the tree, and then making deep notches around the 
 trunk at distances not exceeding one foot apart. Broad leaves 
 were placed beneath these, to receive the milk, which after- 
 wards was collected in a large calabash or other vessel. A hole 
 was then dug in the ground, and the milk poured into it and 
 thatched over with leaves. It coagulated in about two weeks. 
 Another method was to bruise a handful of the large, broad, 
 heart-shaped leaves of a climber, a species of Ipoiuca, and stir 
 these about in the milk. By this operation the milk thickened 
 in less than an hour, having the appearance of a jelly-like 
 mass, but very porous, and exuding profusely a black ink-like 
 water, whenever touched or moved. This system of prepara- 
 tion produces an inferior article, and I have seen some buyers 
 from the United States cut up the large juicy flakes into 
 slices an inch or so in thickness, and dry them in the sun. 
 The temperature of the sea-water along the west coast where 
 the rubber tree grows, is high, and does not vary much during 
 the year. In the Gulf of Guayaquil it is usually 78", at 
 Buenaventura ^o\ and in the Bay of Panama 79°. The water 
 of the river Chagres, although 80 in fine weather, falls during 
 violent rains to 76 . On such occasions, many fish arc to be 
 seen in certain places flcjating about in the water as if be- 
 numbed (jr dying. 1 d(j not know if this is the result of
 
 698 aim'i:ni)ix 1) 
 
 the sLulclcn lowering of the temperature, or if it is to be 
 attributed to the great quantity of decayed vegetable matter, 
 brought down by the discoloured swollen torrents from the 
 interior of the forest. 
 
 " In India there arc many districts which possess all the 
 climatic conditions necessary for the successful cultivation of 
 Central American rubber. T^rom Bombay southward, the 
 majority of the deep debouches of the Ghats coming from 
 the base of the western slope of the Malabar hills, including 
 the humid forest region extending in places down towards the 
 coast, contain many excellent sites. In Ceylon and Southern 
 Burmah and the Malay Peninsula, the tree is likely to thrive 
 in all proper situations. Calicut is about the same latitude 
 as the centre of the region occupied by this rubber tree in its 
 wild state. The deep recesses of the Sispara Ghat really 
 closely resemble some of the caoutchouc districts adjoining 
 the river Dagua. The sites selected ought to be at low 
 elevations, and no place should be tried where the tempera- 
 ture at any time during the year falls below 60 Fahrenheit. 
 Marsh-land must be avoided. In dry desert localities, the 
 tree may be expected to do well when planted along the 
 banks of canals, or any description of channels where water 
 is flowing for a whole or a portion of the day. Trees 
 in good situations will produce seeds early, but these will 
 require to be planted without delay, as drying destroys their 
 vitality. But cuttings must be resorted to- first, and stout 
 branches, cut into pieces each possessing a bud, and covered 
 lightly with soil, will generally be found to grow. Strong 
 cuttings a foot in length and furnished with buds, when 
 planted in the usual way, will become strong plants sooner. 
 However, the propagation of this tree will not be found so 
 easy as that of the Ceara rubber. 
 
 " In the planting out of young plants, the petiole or leaf- 
 stalk of the lowest or oldest leaf should be buried in the soil. 
 By following this simple rule, the plant commences to grow 
 at once, its growth is vigorous and the trunk s)'mmetrical. 
 But if, at the period of planting, there is much bare stem 
 above ground, then growth is usually slow, the plant remains 
 ' ^^S^y ' foi" some time afterwards, and never makes a good 
 tree. If the plants get a little attention until they are 4 
 or 5 feet in height, I do not think there is any description 
 of weeds or forest growth in India that will afterwards overtoiJ 
 them. The rapid growth of this tree, by which a large amount 
 of vegetable mould is added to the soil, is an important 
 feature. My own opinion is that, if planted in suitable places
 
 AMERICAN KLBnER-PR(JDUCING TREES 699 
 
 and ])ru|)cii\' wrought, it will be found to yield a larger 
 return per acre than any other plant or tree cultivated in 
 India. 
 
 " Concluding Remarks. — In commencing^ the cultivation of 
 these trees in India, it may be well to ascertain by actual 
 experiment, as early as possible, the species likely to yield 
 the largest amount of caoutchouc. It is possible that, as 
 regards quality, there may be little, if any, difference in the 
 milk of the various kinds when collected and prepared in the 
 same way. 
 
 " As has been already stated, each of the three sorts recjuire 
 rather different sites, a wet or swampy situation being most 
 natural to the Para tree, while the moist banks of rippling 
 streams or rivulets will be found well suited for the species 
 from Panama. The Ceard tree is not delicate, and will grow 
 and produce rubber in situations where other kinds, if planted, 
 would be dried up. P^or these reasons, it is likely to prove a 
 valuable plant in India, in parched-up regions and stony un- 
 productive lands thinly covered with soil. The cup method, 
 if employed in an extended way, may be found a convenient 
 mode of tapping. Thus tvv^enty rows of cups distributed over 
 the entire trunk might be put on at one time. The earth 
 could also be cleared away from underneath the large roots 
 to allow of their being properly tapped. Even by the rude 
 method adopted in South America, by which the wood is 
 much hacked, the roots are found to yield milk abundantly 
 at all seasons of excellent quality. But whatever method is 
 adopted, it is very evident that if care is exercised, tapping 
 may be carried on continually. The Para tree in many 
 localities gets no rest, except during a very wet moon, or 
 when the collectors are drinking cacJiass. Therefore, the idea 
 of giving the trees one or two years' rest ought not to be 
 entertained. The Ceara method of paring off the surface 
 of the bark might be tried on any of the sorts in dry weather. 
 Pard and Panama trees may be tapped on attaining a 
 diameter of say 6 to 8 inches, and that of Ccard with a 
 diameter of 4 to 5 inches. A collector in a plantation work- 
 ing with cups should be able to collect easily from 8 to 10 lbs. 
 of rubber per day. On the Amazon, in newly-opened districts, 
 where the trees have not been operated on before, practised 
 hands are sometimes able to collect from 20 to 30 lbs. daily. 
 A much greater quantit}' may be collected in even a shorter 
 time on the Isthmus (jf Panama and adjacent regions, but 
 then the trees are cut dow n to obtain the milk, a plan which 
 it is assumed will not be followed in India. The cup process
 
 700 APPENDIX D 
 
 of tapping, the most general in use in the Amazon valley, is 
 an Indian method, and is said to have been in use among 
 them at the time America was discovered. 
 
 " No time should be lost in reducing the milk, when collected, 
 to a solid state, for if this matter is delayed, decomposition 
 takes place, which furnishes much of the impurity complained 
 of by manufacturers. If possible, the milk should be coagulated 
 on the day it is collected. The milk of some species, such as 
 that of the Panama rubber tree, may keep for a week or 
 more in a cool shady place, but Para rubber-milk spoils 
 within the space of twenty hours, and gives off a most dis- 
 agreeable odour. All the Para rubber is prepared by the 
 method I have described. Where nuts cannot easily be found, 
 green foliage is used instead. The 'fumes of sulphur,' 'acetic 
 acid,' or ' ammonia ' are never employed. Alum is generally 
 used in thickening the niangaba milk in the south of Brazil, 
 but it appears to destroy the elasticity of the rubber. The 
 watery portion may be evaporated by placing the milk, in 
 small quantities at a time, in shallow vessels, attached to any 
 simple form of hot-water apparatus. Either this or the 
 adoption of a smoking apparatus similar to that of Para 
 will probably be found the best. The material should be 
 prepared in thin flakes about \\ inches in thickness. These 
 pieces, if made square in the form of a bale, could be fastened 
 together and covered with soft cloth. In this way rubber 
 would be easily handled and stowed. 
 
 " The milk of Messcrandiiba {Lucuma procera), and of one 
 or two milk-yielding trees of the Amazon districts reported 
 to be mixed frequently with Para rubber, possesses no elasti- 
 city when prepared separately. 
 
 " The island of Borneo has been suggested to me as a place 
 specially suited for the formation of indiarubber plantations. 
 Xo doubt they would grow there as well as in India, but pro- 
 bably not any better. Although the position in point of 
 latitude may appear in favour of Borneo as regards the Para 
 tree, I doubt if the climatic conditions of that island excel in 
 any particular the southern portion of the Madras Presidency 
 at low elevations. It must be remembered that what is 
 termed by some ' the equator of heat ' is considerably to the 
 north of our geographical equator. On the American con- 
 tinent it may be placed, I think, at not less than ten degrees 
 of north latitude. In the dense forest regions of the Amazon 
 and Panama Isthmus, the most striking feature is the extra- 
 ordinar}- dc\clopmcnt of certain trees, occup}-ing large spaces 
 of ground, chiefl)-^r/^j- and /v////^.m-, mantled by a dense pro-
 
 AMERICAN RUBBER.PRODUCING TREES 701 
 
 fusion of leafy climbers, the trunks and branches clothed with 
 parasitical plants. In India, as for instance in the best forest 
 portions of the Sispara Ghat, there are no conspicuous large 
 trees with buttressed roots, but there is a far more even 
 development of general forest trees, and I have no doubt if an 
 acre of such land was cleared, and the wood thereof weighed, 
 it would be found to equal, if not exceed, the product of a 
 similar extent of ground in the wooded districts of tropical 
 America. Apart from this, however, there remains a more 
 positive proof of the capabilities possessed by the climate of 
 Southern India. The coco-nut and mango trees can only be 
 cultivated in the hottest regions of the tropics. Now I have 
 visited places where these trees were planted by the natives, 
 such as Jamaica, Hayti, St. Domingo, Porto Rico, Santa 
 Martha, Carthagena, Panama, Buenaventura, Jumaco, Bahia, 
 Esmeralda, Guayaquil, and Para, but nowhere was the fruit 
 superior nor hardly so large as the mangoes and coco-nuts of 
 the Malabar coast. For these and other reasons, I have confi- 
 dence that there exist the necessary conditions for the successful 
 cultivation of the American rubber-yielding trees in many 
 parts of India. 
 
 " In conclusion, I trust the way in which I have performed 
 these services may be considered satisfactory. 
 
 " I am, Sir, your most obedient servant, 
 
 " Robert Cross." 
 
 The American hidiaruhbcr trees in Southern India} 
 
 "To THE Conservator of Forests, Madras. 
 
 " Ootacamund, March 6, 1881, 
 
 " Sir, 
 
 " Respecting my previously arranged journey to 
 visit the sites proposed for the cultivation of the various 
 species of American indiarubber trees, I beg to state that I 
 proceeded on this duty on February 15, and arrived at the 
 bungalow at Nilambur on the evening of the 1 7th. The course 
 pursued was by Naduvatam, Gudalur, and Nadgame, 
 descending afterwards by the Carcoor Ghat to the plain 
 land below. 
 
 " On the following day, accompanied by Mr. Ferguson and 
 Mr. Hadfield, his successor, I visited the site of the newly- 
 
 ^ Reprinted by permission of the Secretary of State for India.
 
 702 
 
 APPENDIX D 
 
 introfluccd rubber plants. These have been planted in an 
 open space of teak forest land on the bank of the Xilambur 
 river. 
 
 " The first sort examined was that which furnished the 
 rubber known in the market as ' Ceara scrap.' The tree 
 belongs to the Mandioca family, and the roots are furnished 
 usually with tubers, which vary in size and number in accord- 
 ance with its growth. The plants of this sort have, in the 
 brief space of two years, shot up in the most surprising manner, 
 the highest upwards of 30 feet in height, and are now 
 yielding an abundant crop of seeds. I was shown one strong 
 rank sapling, which, in five months from the time of planting, 
 had grown up and produced flower. 
 
 " This region is, without doubt, admirably adapted for the 
 growth of the tree ; and the robust and vigorous appearance 
 of those already planted is certainly quite equal to any trees 
 of the same apparent age and size I saw when engaged in 
 collecting the original plants near Ceara on the coast of 
 Brazil. At the same time, I would confine the general planting 
 of the Ceara rubber to rather dry, arid situations and poor soils, 
 reserving the good, deep, moist sandy loam of the Xilambur 
 river and its tributaries for the Castilloa. 
 
 " Mr. Ferguson was desirous of proof for the actual existence 
 of rubber in his Ceara saplings ; and although these were too 
 young to yield this product, I resolved to make an attempt to 
 satisfy him. The natives at Ceara, in bleeding this sort, 
 simply slice off the outer portion of the bark on one side of 
 the tree from the base to a height of 4 or 5 feet. The milk 
 exudes from the pared portions of the trunk and runs down in 
 little courses. By the following morning the milky juice of 
 these courses is sufficiently solidified to be pulled from the 
 tree in strings, which are rolled up into balls, as the work of 
 collection proceeds. 
 
 " When this process was tried on one tree the milk exuded 
 freely, but next day, on examination, it was found that the 
 greater portion had evaporated, showing the watery and 
 immature state in which the milk exists in young growing 
 plants. However, on making incisions on the collar and 
 largest roots of the plants, milk of good quality was obtained, 
 which next day was found coagulated. From the collar of 
 five saplings about an ounce of rubber was obtained, which, 
 in appearance, elasticity, and odour, could not have been 
 distinguished from ' Ceara scrap ' as seen in commerce. But 
 it is manifest the trees ought to be allowed to attain some size 
 before beinij wrought.
 
 AMERICAN RUBBER-PRODUCING TREES 703 
 
 " The propacjation of this sort is as easy as a willow. I made 
 a few cuttini^s just to show the proper method, and these were 
 planted near the bunc^alow. J^ut now that the trees were 
 producing seeds, recourse to cuttings may not often be 
 necessary. Each seed before sowing should have a small 
 portion of the outer shell broken oft by a pair of pincers,^ 
 simply to allow the moisture to reach the cmbr}'o, which in 
 the operation should not be injured ; or by merely bur}Mng the 
 seeds in moist sand germination will take place much earlier. 
 
 " The Para Rubber.— This rubber tree, which yields a valu- 
 able commercial product, has seemingly not found its proper 
 habitat at Nilambur. The young plants have shot up like 
 long whip-handles with a bunch of leaves on the top. There 
 is not, however, the slightest reason to despair of success. 
 Some plants, say a dozen, should be planted in the Carcoor 
 Ghat at an elevation of 1000 feet, and another dozen might 
 be put down at 2000 feet, or, for example, somewhere in the 
 vicinity of ' Campbell's Rock.' A little clear site at each 
 place, a few yards in extent, and easily reached from the road, 
 would suffice for these experiments. The Para tree is easily 
 multiplied, and recourse may be had to the same way as that 
 adopted for willows. I made some cuttings, which were 
 planted in a moist situation on the river-bank. From these 
 it may be seen whether additional humidity improves the 
 character of the plant. 
 
 " Central American Rubber. — The Castilloa clastica, yielding 
 this description of rubber, and of which there are only three 
 plants, has evidently found a home on the bank of the 
 Nilambur river. It may be considered premature to judge or 
 form an opinion from the appearance of only three plants, 
 from 3 to 4 feet in height, and indeed this is so. But besides 
 having looked carefully and attentively at the physical 
 appearance and development of these plants, I have considered 
 and remembered the characteristics of the extensive region 
 inhabited by this tree. The Castilloa is found growing 
 throughout the Central American Republics always at low 
 elevations, and certainly I do not think I noticed it anywhere 
 above an elevation of 2000 feet. North of the Equator, it is 
 met with in the wooded districts, which bound Jembico in 
 Mexico, extending southward through the dense exuberant 
 forest regions of the Central American Republics, and 
 stretching across from the Atlantic to the Pacific, on as far as 
 
 1 Or rasping off with a file the two edges at the radicular end, recog- 
 nized by a flat two-lobed appendage ; it is advisable not to file off the 
 actual end for fear of injury to the embryo. — W. W. A. F'.G.
 
 704 APPENDIX D 
 
 the river Atrato, after which it is confined to the forests and 
 base of the mountain ravines bordering on the Pacific coast, 
 and thus continues to Santa Rosa and Arenillas near Tumbez 
 districts, which He adjacent to the Peruvian desert. Through- 
 out this vast expanse of country there is, without doubt, 
 considerable variation of cHmate. But it so happens that the 
 periods representing the wet and dry seasons coincide in a 
 remarkable manner, at least as far as I can learn, with the 
 occurrence of the same periods on the Western Ghats. In 
 the region of the Castilloa, especially on the Pacific side, the 
 dry season sets in about the beginning of January, and 
 continues until April. During this time the rank swamp 
 growth is occasionally so dry that it is set on fire and burned. 
 In the dry season the tree becomes deciduous, and in March 
 pushes forth a fig-shaped fruit, w^hich ripens with a beautiful 
 scarlet crown, all the rest remaining green. In August the 
 fruit is ripe during the heavy rains. The seeds cannot be 
 dried, and must be planted as soon as the fruit falls. It is 
 not found growing' on swamps or inundated land, but on the 
 flat moist banks of rivers and steep sides of ravines where the 
 roots may be seen running clown the banks, for a distance of 
 15 or 20 feet,, to the very margin of the streams. 
 
 " The Castilloa is the largest known rubber-producing tree, 
 its massive trunk sometimes rising in close humid spots to a 
 height of 80 feet clear of branches, and is only exceeded by the 
 ' Ouipo,' a gigantic species of Bovibax. Sometimes the trunk 
 divides into two stems, evidently from the leading bud having 
 been broken when young, and those trees are less prized by 
 the rubber-collectors. In order to extract the milk, the usual 
 course is to cut the tree down, and make notches round the 
 trunk at about a foot apart. Broad leaves or calabashes are 
 then placed underneath these into which the milk drops. In 
 a few localities, especially at Nicaragua, the trees are not 
 felled. The practice is to make a perpendicular channel in 
 the bark from the base of the trunk upwards, and then make 
 a number of cuts on each side leading into the main channel. 
 A good deal of milk always adheres and solidifies in the 
 primary and side channels, which is afterwards collected. 
 These ' dregs ' are much valued in the markets of the United 
 States. I have heard it argued among the natives that it was 
 probably more profitable to cut the tree down than trust to 
 the bleeding channel process. My own opinion is, that the 
 channel method is good, specially for the Castilloa, but the 
 collectors gash the trees so badly in working that the after 
 flow of milk is niucli lessened. Besides, at the base of the
 
 AMERICAN RUBHER-PRODUCING TREES 705 
 
 main channel, they drive an iron spout into the trunk in order 
 to convey the milk from the tree to the calabash. A piece of 
 bamboo, luted by means of clay to the base of the channel, 
 would serve the same purpose just as well, whilst the wood of 
 the tree would escape permanent injury. In combination 
 with the channel process, collecting by the cup method will 
 often be found useful, especially in the case of large trees, as 
 cups can be applied to various parts of the tree, which, if 
 operated on by channels, would result in the loss of much 
 milk. I have described the cup process in my report to the 
 India Office on the collecting of Para rubber plants, with date 
 of 1877. Respecting the quantity of rubber which may be 
 obtained from a tree, the amount would depend on the age 
 and size of the tree, season, habitat, and likewise mode of 
 collecting. 
 
 " During the rainy season the flow of milk is greater, and 
 this also is the case with the trees growing in humid localities. 
 The skill and care of the collector must also be taken into 
 account ; some spill and waste a great deal of milk. 
 
 " A Castilloa tree with a diameter of li to 2 feet, if carefully 
 and judiciously tapped, may be expected to yield about twelve 
 pounds of rubber per annum. 
 
 " Of all the different species of rubber-producing trees, the 
 Castilloa should prove under cultivation the most remunerative. 
 The banks of the Nilambur river and its tributaries afford, in 
 my opinion, suitable sites for planting, and I have no hesita- 
 tion in stating that the lower portions of the Carcoor Ghat 
 would grow and sustain as fine Castilloa trees as any district 
 of Central or South America. The conditions of the bottom 
 and deep side ravines of the Carcoor Ghat are of the most 
 superb description. But no doubt many excellent sites exist 
 along the course of the Western Ghat southwards towards 
 Sispara, and likewise to the northward in the Nagar region. 
 In planting, the ground should be cleared so that the trees may 
 grow up robust, but there will be little ' mamatie ' work ; for, 
 once the Castilloa gets up it will overtop the majorit)- of the 
 Ghat trees. 
 
 " The propagation of this sort Trom a limited stock will 
 require more skill than would be necessary for multiplying 
 the Ceard or Para rubbers. 
 
 " As yet, that plant at Nilambur presents few materials for 
 propagation, though, as the growth of the tree is rapid, a supply 
 of cutting shoots will probably be available after the burst of 
 the monsoon. By erecting a small platform, we were able to lay 
 a branch with seven shoots, so that when these are rooted the 
 
 z z
 
 7o6 APl'ENDIX D 
 
 stock will be at once fully doubled. I would certainly advocate 
 the multiplication of cuttings of the Castilloa, as it is not an 
 early seeder. In America the trees do not usually bear seed 
 until they are about eight years old. Before the lapse of such 
 a period, thousands of Castilloa plants might be growing up 
 into young trees at Nilambur, derived by means of propagation. 
 I regret to state that time did not permit me to visit the 
 Silent Valley as a special site for the Castilloa. I have no 
 doubt, however, that it will be found well suited for the growth 
 of the tree. 
 
 " I returned to this place on February 25. 
 
 " In conclusion, I trust the way in which this duty has been 
 jierformed will meet with approval. 
 " I am. Sir, 
 
 " Your most obedient servant, 
 
 " RoiiERT Cross."
 
 APPENDIX E 
 
 EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-PLANTS 
 
 BOWSTRING HEMP.^ 
 
 This at present is not an article in commercial use ; but 
 attention may well be directed to the capabilities of numerous 
 species of Sansevicria for producing fibre of great \-alue. 
 Plants of Sansevicria, of which there are ten or twelve species, 
 are very abundant on both the east and west coasts of Tropical 
 Africa, which indeed may be looked upon as the head-quarters 
 of the genus. One well-known species (5". zeylanica) is in- 
 digenous to Ceylon ; and this and others are found along the 
 Bay of Bengal, extending thence to Java and to the coasts of 
 China. The leaves of these plants are more or less succulent, 
 and abound in a very valuable fibre, remarkable alike for 
 fineness, elasticit}-, and for strength. 
 
 Usually the leaves are not more than \\ to 2 feet long; 
 in some species, such as 5". ginncensis and 5. cylindrica, the 
 leaves attain a length of 3 or 4 feet ; while in one species, 
 native of Tropical Africa, the leaves under favourable circum- 
 stances attain a length of 9 feet. In this species, for particulars 
 of which and for samples of its fibre we are indebted to Sir 
 John Kirk, G.C.M.G., Consul-General at Zanzibar, the quality 
 of the fibre is exceptionally good. We have doubtless here a 
 new fibre of great value.'- 
 
 1 Reprinted by special permission of the Controller of her Majesty's 
 Stationery Office. (From Royal Gardens, Keii' BiiUdin of Miscellaneous 
 Inforviation, No. 5, May 1897.) 
 ''^ As to the identification of this plant, Mr. Baker remarks as follows— 
 " We have a specimen in flower from Buchanan, ' Shire highlands, 
 Zambesia. Yields a most excellent fibre.' So far as can be judged by a 
 rough sketch, Sir John Kirk's is the same plant ; and there seems no 
 reason why it should not be identical with 5. lo)igijio7-a, Sims, in Bot. 
 Mag. t. 2634, of which we ha\e specimens from Guinea, Angola, etc." 
 
 707
 
 7o8 
 
 APPENDIX E 
 
 In the treatment of the leaves of Smisevicria by machinery, 
 the great drawback hitherto experienced has been their com- 
 paratixely small size, and the difficulty of cleaning the fibre 
 contained in them in an exj^editious and remunerative manner. 
 These circumstances would not obtain in the case of the jjlant 
 
 P.OWSTRING IIEMP.l 
 
 Sansevicria zcylaiiica, \\'illd. 
 a. Flower laid open. /'. Seeds. 
 
 brought into notice b)' Sir John Kirk. Indeed, for moist, 
 tropical climates, as opposed to the dry, hot, and arid districts 
 of Yucatan, where the Sisal hemp is grown, this and S. longi- 
 Jlora, if they arc really distinct, would be likely to prove of 
 exceptional \aluc as fibre-plants. 
 
 ^ Reproduced by special permission of ihe Controller of lier .Majesty's 
 Stationery Office.
 
 EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-PLANTS 
 
 709 
 
 It may be mentioned that all species of Sanscvicria prefer 
 a rich, moist soil and a com]3arativcly humid climate. They 
 are essentially tropical plants, and do not thrive in a tempera- 
 
 SECTIONS OF LEAVES OF SPECIES OF SA NSEVIERIA — 
 
 I. 5. guineensis. 
 3. S. Kirkii. 
 5. S. zeylanica. 
 
 7. 5. sulcata. 
 
 2. S. longiflora. 
 4. S. iliyrsijlora. 
 6. S. cylindrica. 
 
 veil, the lower is from the base of the 
 
 Note.— Where, as ill Nos. I, 2, 3, 4, two sections are giv_ , , , ^ „., ■ . 
 
 leaf, and the other exactly across the middle or widest part of the leaf. 1 he sections here 
 represented are nearly the natural size of leaves grown under cultivation at Kew. In the tropics 
 under suitable conditions all the leaves would necessarily grow to a much larger size. 
 
 ture less than 60' Fahr. Under such conditions they grow 
 rapidly, and establish themselves permancntl}- by means of 
 large, spreading, fleshy rhizomes or underground stems. It 
 is frue they will grow in comparatively dry districts, and even
 
 7IO APPENDIX E 
 
 in soils slroiiL;])- iinpi-CL;natc(l with salt; but their c^nnvth 
 under such circumstances is very slow, and the leaves are 
 seldom lari^e enough to produce marketable fibre. 
 
 Dr. Roxburgh proposed that the fibres of Sansevierias 
 might be called bowstring hemp, because the natives of the 
 Ci rears make their best bowstrings of them. On the other 
 hand, small samples of fibre from .S". guincoisis, which ha\e 
 appeared in the London market, have been called African 
 bowstring hemp. These fibres are very firm, hair-like and 
 silky, and closely resemble those of the pineapple ; they are 
 said to take dyes very readily ; and the tow is mentioned by 
 Royle to have been converted into good paper at Trichinopoly. 
 
 Plants of Sansevieria are already abundant in a wild or 
 semi-cultivated state in most tropical countries. They are 
 capable of being propagated very readily. Usually the under- 
 ground stem or rhizome is divided and planted ; but plants 
 may also be raised from seed, or from the leaves, which latter, 
 planted whole or cut into small pieces, readily take root in 
 moist situations. 
 
 A full botanical description of the several species of 
 Sansevieria may be found in a monograph of the AsPARA- 
 CiACE.^, in the fourteenth volume of \\\^Jour)ial of the Liiiuean 
 Society, pp. 546-550, by Mr. J. G. Baker, F.R.S. The descrip- 
 tions given in the following notes are contributed by Mr. 
 Baker. The species are restricted to those which are now 
 under cultivation at Kew, and of which specimens of fibre 
 have been prepared and examined. The plants may be seen 
 in the west transept of the palm-house at Kew ; while the 
 specimens of fibres are in Kew Museum, No. 2. 
 
 The species, or well-marked sub-species of Sansevieria,^ of 
 which we have living plants at Kew, are seven in number, and 
 they may be readily classified according to their leaves in 
 three groups, as follows — • 
 
 I. Leaves comparatively thin and flat — 
 
 I. S. guineensis. 2. S. longiflora. 
 
 3. vS". Kirkii. 4. 6". thyrsiflora. 
 
 II. Leaves semicircular in transverse section at the middle, 
 deeply hollowed down the face — 
 
 5. S. rjeylaniea. 
 
 ^ As regards the spcllin-, tollowinj^ llic Cn/ieni riaiilaniiii, we ha\c 
 acl(ii)tc(l Sanscina-ia, instead of Saiisn'icrn, as belli};; the oldest name. 
 Thunbcrg liad it Snnsc7'icn'a ; Willdenow altered it to Saiisc7'icrn, and 
 Kunlli followed. ]>entham in GcncriX Plantanon reverted to Sansevieria.
 
 EXTRACTS RELATliNG iU FlBRE-l'LANTS 711 
 
 III. Leaves club-shaped, more like steins than pro[jer 
 leaves. 
 
 6. i\ cylimh'ica. 7. 5. sulcata. 
 
 I . Sansevieria guineensls, Willd., is one of the two oldest 
 and best known species. It was first figured and described, 
 long before the days of Linnaeus, in the year 1701, by 
 Commelinus, in his Horti Medici Anistelodamensis Rarionim 
 P/aiitanim Dcscriptio (tab. 20), under the name of " Aloe 
 guineensis radice geniculata foliis ex viridi et atro undulatim 
 variegatis." Linnaeus classified it under the genus Aletris, 
 and so did Jacquin, who figured and carefully described it in 
 1770, in his Hortus Viudobonoisis, vol. i. p. 6"/, t. 84. It has 
 horny, erect, lanceolate leaves, 3 or 4 feet long, 3 inches broad 
 at the middle, narrowed gradually to an acute apex, not 
 distinctly bordered with red, copiously mottled on both 
 surfaces with broad, irregular bands of white. The flowers 
 are in a lax, simple spike, which rises to the same height as 
 the leaves, in clusters of three to six, with a whitish perianth 
 about 2 inches long, of which the six segments are about as 
 long as the cylindrical tube. It is a native of Guinea, from 
 which we have wild specimens gathered by Barter and others. 
 We have it also from Central Africa, collected by Schweinfurth 
 and Grant, and Abyssinia by Beccari, and what is most likely 
 the same from the Zambesi country, gathered by Sir John 
 Kirk in i860; the latter accompanied by a sketch made on 
 the spot, when he was botanist to the Livingstone expedition. 
 
 On the Zambesi S.gniiiceiisis appears to be called " Konje," 
 and Sir John Kirk speaks of it as "yielding a valuable fibre 
 similar to Manilla hemp." It is described as "growing in 
 great abundance in many places, keeping to the shade of 
 woods." 
 
 Mr. Home, Director of the Royal Botanic Garden, Pample- 
 mousses, mentions that — 
 
 "This plant thrives well in Mauritius in damp marshy 
 places in the ' lowlands.' I have no doubt that it would thrive 
 well in the wet ' uplands.' " 
 
 It is widely distributed in the West Indies, and has been 
 grown experimentally for the sake of its fibre at St. Thomas, 
 Jamaica, and Trinidad. 
 
 As regards cultural treatment, the following information is 
 taken from notes prejjarcd by the late director of the Hotanical 
 Dcjjartment, Jamaica, on this and .S". zcylanica — 
 
 " In the first instance plants may be put out at 3 feet by 
 3 feet, which, allowing for roads and paths, would give
 
 712 APPENDIX E 
 
 about 3000 to the acre. If the soil is kept well broken and 
 moist, these ])lants, by the extension of root suckers, will 
 spread in all directions, so that ultimately the whole ground, 
 with the exception of certain paths which should be kept 
 permanently open, will be covered with plants. As regards 
 the time which must elapse between planting out and the first 
 yield of leaves suitable for fibre, there would appear to be a 
 great difference of opinion. Plants which I saw at St. Thomas 
 at three years old were only just ready to be cut ; and Baron 
 Eggers, who had planted them and kept them under close 
 observation during the whole of that time, was of opinion 
 that Sansevieria plants could not be depended upon to yield 
 a crop before three or three and a half years. 
 
 " My own experience coincides with this, but necessarily 
 much must depend upon the nature of the plants when first 
 put out, the character of the soil, the amount of moisture 
 received, as well as on the system of cultivation pursued. 
 
 " From actual trial tests in India, where one-third of an 
 acre was cultivated with Sansevieria zeylanica, it appears that 
 full-grown leaves of 3 to 3i feet long (their actual age is 
 not mentioned) yielded about i lb. of clean fibre for every 
 40 lbs. of fresh leaves. That is, the weight of clean, dry 
 fibre was at the rate of 2| per cent, of fresh leaves. Dr. 
 Roxburgh calculated that one acre would yield 161 3 pounds 
 of clean fibre at a gathering, two of whidi may be reckoned 
 on yearly, ' in a good soil and a favourable season, after the 
 plants are of a proper age.' 
 
 " This would be at the rate of i \ tons of fibre per acre 
 per annum at the end of three and a half years, of the gross 
 value (at the rate of ^^30 per ton) of ^^45. Whether this 
 return can be depended upon for the West Indies on an 
 extensive area I am unable to say." 
 
 In an experimental trial carried on at Jamaica, 1185 lbs. 
 of green leaves of S. guiiieensis yiQXAo.^ 29 lbs. 10 oz. of dry 
 fibre. This was cleaned by machine. The reports of brokers 
 were as follows : — {a) ".Value, ^18 per ton, mixed fibre partly 
 uncleaned." iU) " Poorly cleaned, a good deal of mixture in it, 
 not so strong ; value, about £2'^ per ton." (r) " No good in the 
 state sent ; it has a lot of bark in it, and requires more dress- 
 ing ; both ends are cleaned, but the centre is dirty. Price, 
 if dres.sed properly, would be as good as 5. zeylanica, viz. £y:y 
 per ton." 
 
 In September last. His Excellency Sir William Robinson, 
 Governor of Trinidad, forwarded to Kew samples of fibre of 
 this species, which he stated had been prepared " at the
 
 EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-PLANTS 713 
 
 convict depot at Chaguanas, without the aid of machinery of 
 any kind." The report of Messrs. Ide and Christie on tlie 
 Trinidad sample was as follows— 
 
 " In point of cleanness and softness of fibre it seems well 
 prepared ; but to compete successfully with Manilla hemp it 
 would require to be of a better colour and of equal if not 
 superior strength. We value it for rope-making purpo.ses 
 at ;^20 per ton in Lojidon. The small piece of Manilla fibre 
 which we enclose has a value to-day (September 24, 1886) of 
 ^3 1 per ton." 
 
 A few leaves taken from plants grown at Kew were 
 recently passed through Death's fibre machine ; but the result, 
 owing to the smallness of the quantity and the necessity of 
 adjusting the machine to the size of each leaf, was not satis- 
 factory, but it is not devoid of interest. The report of Messrs. 
 Ide and Christie on the sample of fibre submitted to them 
 was as follows — " Short, and only moderate strength. Value, 
 £2;^ per ton. We reported on fibre from this plant from 
 Trinidad in September last, when we valued the sample at 
 ;!^20 per ton. The difference now is due solely to the advance 
 in the price of Sisal hemp." 
 
 Of samples of fibre of ^\ giiiiieensis, the Kew Museums 
 contain one specimen machine-cleaned from Jamaica, sent 
 by Mr. D. Morris, 1884, with the following note : — " Leaves 
 3! to 4 feet long, broader than .5". rjeylanica, mottled, unarmed, 
 common and easily propagated." A specimen from Trinidad, 
 cleaned by hand, forwarded by Governor Sir William Robin- 
 son, and valued by Messrs. Ide and Christie at ^20 per ton. 
 Also a leaf, rope, and fibre from S.E. Africa, sent by Mr. T. 
 Baines. A specimen of leaf and fibre from Sir John Kirk 
 appears under the following label, " Maculated Sansevieria, 
 called ' Konje,' near Laputa, i860." This is probably identical 
 with .S". giiineensis. 
 
 2. Sansevieria longiflora, Sims, a native of Equatorial 
 Africa, was first figured and described by Dr. Sims in 1826 at 
 Tab. 2634 of the Botanical Magazine. The leaves are very 
 like those of .S. guineensis ; but as grown with us they are 
 larger, flatter, not so firm in texture, and not invariably 
 blotched with green. The best character by which it may be 
 known from 5. guineensis is the flower, which is 30- or 4 
 inches long, instead of 2 inches. We have specimens in the 
 Herbarium with flowers as large as this from Guinea gathered 
 by Barter and Mann; from the Congo by Prof. C. Smith; from 
 Zambesi country by Mr. l^uchanan ; from Angola by the late 
 Mr. Monteiro ; from Niam-niam Land by Dr. Schweinfurth.
 
 714 APPENDIX E 
 
 Whether all these are the same species it is iinpcjssible to say 
 at present. There is also a large-llovvered species, called 
 Saiiscvicria bractcata, which was gathered by Dr. Wehvitsch 
 in Angola. 
 
 In 1879, Sir John Kirk fc^ruarded, through the Foreign 
 Office, a specimen of fibre from the leaf of a species of 
 Sanscvieria found growing on the mainland opposite the 
 island of Zanzibar. The specimen sent was the produce 
 of a single leaf, the length of which was 9 feet. The report 
 of Messrs. Noble on this specimen was as follows : — " We 
 have carefully examined the fibre from East Africa ; it is 
 worth as a hemp ^^22 per ton at the present time (1879)." 
 
 Recently Sir John Kirk has been good enough to furnish 
 
 more detailed information as regards the plant yielding this 
 
 fibre, which leads us to conclude that it is probably .S\ loiigi- 
 
 Jlora, Sims (see footnote p. 707). In a letter dated December 
 
 1886, he mentions — 
 
 " It grows abundantly near Pangane, on the mainland 
 opposite the island of Zanzibar, and in the district between 
 that and Mombasa, and is used by the natives to yield a long 
 and useful fibre of which I sent specimens to Kew some years 
 ago. 
 
 "This plant has flowered with me at Mbweni in the island 
 of Zanzibar, but the soil being too dry and sandy it did not 
 succeed very well. 
 
 " The flowers are on a stalk crowded in a head, not race- 
 mose, or in a spike, as in another species common on the 
 island. Unfortunately my flowering specimens rotted in dry- 
 ing, so that I have never been able to send home the inflores- 
 cence for identification. The leaves which yield the fibre are 
 at first flat and clouded, but after a time the lower part becomes 
 much elongated, round and grooved on the upper side, the end 
 only remaining flattened and not so mottled. It is a plant 
 worth being introduced to our tropical colonies." 
 
 Several plants of this species are growing in the Palm- 
 house at Kew, from which it would appear that it is a very 
 free-growing and robust species. Some leaves from these 
 plants were lately tested for fibre by means of Death's fibre 
 machine, which yielded at the rate of i'6g per cent, of clean 
 dry fibre. The report of Messrs. Ide and Christie on specimens 
 thus prepared was as follows — "A very bright, clean, strong 
 fibre, and in every wa}- a most desiral)le commercial article. It 
 would com[)ete with the best Sisal hemp for rope-making pur- 
 poses. Value, ^30 per ton." 
 
 There is little doubt that from the robust habit and size
 
 EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-I'LANTS 715 
 
 which this species is capable of attaiIlinl,^ it is a most 
 \ahiable fibre-phmt. As reiJorted by Sir John Kirk, a single 
 leaf of what we take to be the same species under favourable 
 circumstances attains a height of 9 feet ; and from one such 
 leaf excellent fibre weighing 'l oz. has been produced. This 
 and other examples of fibre are in the Kew Museum, No. 2. 
 
 3. Of San.SEVIERIA KlRKil, Baker MS., we know the leaves 
 only, but it is evidently a distinct species. It was sent to Kew 
 by Sir John Kirk in October 1 881, as a native of the east coast 
 of Africa. We have had it in cultivation at Kew since that 
 time, but so far it has not flowered. The leaf is oblanceolate 
 in shape and very horny in texture. We have only grown it 
 to a length of 2 feet, with a breadth in the middle of 3 inches. 
 The leaf is dull green with a distinct brown edge, and is much 
 mottled on both sides. The base is much thicker, and its 
 edges are more incurved than in either of the three other 
 comparatively flat-leav'ed kinds, and down the back of the 
 lower part of a leaf run about five distinct grooves, a char- 
 acter which distinguishes it readily from .S". g/ii)iceiisis and 5. 
 lougijlora. 
 
 Specimens of fibre prepared from 6". Kirkii yielded at the 
 rate of r69 per cent, by weight of the green leaf. They were 
 described by Messrs. Ide and Christie as follows — " Rather 
 stout, but very clean and good colour ; the strength fair. Value, 
 £2j per ton." 
 
 4. Sansevieria thyrsiflora, Thunb., is the species on 
 which the genus Sansevieria was first constituted by Thun- 
 berg in the year 1794. The leaf is nearly flat, and does not 
 reach above i foot or \\ feet in length, and is 1 1 inches or 2 
 inches broad at the middle, with abundant mottling and a 
 distinct red edge. The flower does not differ from that of S. 
 giiinccnsis. It is a native of the eastern parts of Cape Colony. 
 Zeyher gives the place of growth as " Uitenhage, in woods of 
 Zwartkops, and many other places in the east of the colony ; 
 Kei of the Hottentots : a decoction of the root used for 
 dysentery." 
 
 The leaves of this species growing at Kew were too small 
 to be tested for fibre. 
 
 5. Sansevieria zeylanica, Willd., is a very well-known 
 and well-marked plant. It is a native of Ceylon, and long 
 before Linn.neus was figured and described by Royen, Com- 
 melinus, and Plukenet. There are eight or ten leaves in a tuft, 
 and they arc semi-circular in transverse section, i or 2 feet long, 
 rounded ()n the back, deeply chamielled down the face, ^j or I 
 inch thick in the middle, in colour dull green, copiously banded
 
 7i6 AIM^ENDIX E 
 
 vvilh white, with a distinct red margin. The peduncle and 
 flower-spike are each about a foot long, the flowers being 
 rather smaller than in ..S". gHincmisis, but quite similar in struc- 
 ture. It is well figured in Redoute's Liliaceac, tab. 290, and 
 in the Botanical Register, tab. 160, in the year 18 16. 
 
 In Ceylon this species is known under the Singhalese name 
 of Neyaiida. It is indigenous to the hotter parts of the island, 
 and the fibre yielded by it is used in numerous ways, such as 
 strings, ropes, mats, and a coarse kind of cloth. In India the 
 plant is known as Moorva, Moorga, or Marool. Sir William 
 Jones, in the Asiatic Researches, vol. iv., p. 271, mentions vS". 
 aeylanica under its ancient Sanscrit name of Moorva, and he 
 says that: "From the leaves of this plant the ancient Hindoos 
 obtained a very tough elastic thread called Maiirvi, of which 
 they made bowstrings, and which for that reason was ordained 
 by Menu to form the sacrificial zone of the military class." Dr. 
 Roxburgh describes the plant as common on the jungly salt 
 soils along the coasts, growing under the bushes, and easily 
 propagated on almost every soil, from the slips which issue in 
 great abundance from the roots, requiring little or no care, 
 and not requiring to be renewed often, if at all, as the plant is 
 perennial. The leaves when thus cultivated are from 3 to 4 
 feet long. 
 
 Mr. Home makes the following note on this plant at 
 Mauritius — 
 
 " Several species of Sanscvieria are common here in waste 
 lands, near the sites of old gardens, and by the roadsides. 
 They are not so readily nor so cheaply established on land as 
 the aloes vert. But they yield a good fibre, which is used for 
 cordage, etc. It has the reputation of being one of the 
 strongest of fibres. It is known by the name of boivstring 
 Jieiiip and IMoorva!' 
 
 Generally in Ceylon and India the natives prepare fibre 
 from this plant by retting, or by simply beating and scraping. 
 Full-grown leaves yield at the rate of 7-87 per cent, of weight 
 of the green leaves. Owing to the smallness of the individual 
 leaves they are difficult to clean by machinery, but if it were 
 possible to separate the fibre by a chemical process, this plant 
 would become of great commercial value. 
 
 Of samples of 5. zeylanica fibre the Kew Museums contain 
 one specimen from Ceylon, sent by Dr. G. H. K. Thwaites, 
 under the name of Neyanda fibre ; one labelled Moorga or 
 bowstring hemp, from Jainaica, from Mr. D. Morris, 1884, 
 with the following note attached — "Longest leaves 3J, to 4 
 feet long, narrow, mottled, unarmed, very common and very
 
 EXTRACTS RELATINXx TO FIBRE-PLANTS 717 
 
 easily propagated either by root, suckers, portions of the leaf, 
 or seed." There are also samples from the Botanic Garden, 
 Mauritius, sent by Mr. Duncan ; from Mysore, obtained from 
 the India Museum, besides rope and twine from Balasore and 
 twine from Cuttack, likewise from the India Museum ; a 
 Singhalese whip and nose-strings for harnessed bullocks from 
 Kand}', sent b>' Mr. J. A. Ferdinandus ; a sample of paper 
 half stuff from the India Museum ; and some fibre, dyed in 
 two colours (red and blue), from Madras by Dr. Hunter. 
 
 Samples of fibre of 5*. zeylanica prepared at Jamaica by 
 machinery, in 1884, were described as follows by London 
 brokers : — {a) " Beautiful fibre, rather heavy and hard, might 
 be whiter, value very uncertain, iJ"20 to ;^35 per ton." (/;) 
 " Rather dull in colour and short in growth, fairly well cleaned. 
 Value, about ^30 per ton." (<r) " Might be whiter. It is almost 
 too good for roping purposes. Worth about 30 per ton." 
 
 6. Of Sansevieria CYLIXDRICA, Bojer, an excellent figure 
 and a full account by Sir \Mlliam Hooker will be found at 
 tab. 5093 of the Botanical Magazine. It is a most distinct 
 and curious-looking plant. The leaves are cylindrical, round 
 in horizontal section, faintly sulcate all round, especially in 
 the }'oung state, obtuse at the end, arching ; reaching, when 
 fully developed, a length of 3 or 4 feet and a thickness of 
 about an inch. The peduncle is about a foot long, the raceme 
 much longer, with clustered cylindrical flowers just like those 
 of gninecnsis in structure, but only about an inch long. It is 
 spread across South Africa from Zanzibar to Angola. Our 
 Kew plants were received by the Foreign Office from Angola 
 in 1859 under the name of Ife, and an abundant supply of its 
 fibre, and ship's cables and other ropes manufactured from it, 
 were shown in the Portuguese Department of the Paris 
 Exhibition in 1858. 
 
 In the description attached to the figure of the plant in the 
 Botanical Magazine mentioned above. Sir William Hooker 
 adds the following particulars — 
 
 " About three years ago (that is in 1857) there were received 
 at the Foreign Office, and transferred to the Admiralty, 
 samples of a peculiar fibre and cordage under the name of 
 Ife, said to be derived from a new plant at the Portuguese 
 settlement, Angola, West Coast of Africa. These were ac- 
 companied by some apparently living plants, which were 
 placed in the cellars of the Foreign Office, and by the kind- 
 ness of our valued friend, G. Lenox-Coningham, Esq., for, 
 warded to Kew, where they soon recovered, and have since 
 flowered. The habit of the plant was that of Sansevieria, 
 but the leaves very dark coloured, and quite terete and solid
 
 7i8 APPENDIX E 
 
 in the interior, very unlike any known sjjccies of that genus. 
 My duties at the Paris Exhibition of 1855 led me to the 
 careful investigation of the vegetable products, and I was 
 there agreeably surprised to find most extensive samples, in 
 tlie Portuguese department, of the raw material fibre, and 
 manufactured articles, ship-cables, rope, beautiful cordage, 
 etc., of the same material ; and amongst ' The Products of 
 Angola,' it is thus stated in my report — 'Fibre marked from 
 Sansevieria angolensis, this latter being a MS. name of Dr. 
 Welwitsch for a remarkable species of Sansevieria, with long, 
 stout, terete leaves, which is in cultivation at Kew. The 
 cordage and rope made of this plant appear to the eye of 
 excellent quality, whatever experience may prove them to be.' 
 Experiments recently made with this cordage have shown it 
 to be the strongest and best-fitted for deep-sea sounding of 
 any fibre known ; indeed this is the less surprising, seeing 
 that other species of Sansevieria (the well-known S. zeylanica 
 and guincensis, for example) are cultivated in almost all 
 tropical countries on account of the strength and durability 
 of the fibre, under the name Bowstring Jienipr 
 
 Of samples of vS. cylindrica fibre in the Kew Museums, 
 there is one specimen from Mauritius sent by Mr. Duncan ; 
 fibre of the Probo, and rope and cordage made from it, 
 probably S. cylindrica^ Sierra Leone, Commodore A. Eardley 
 Wilmot, H.M.S. Rattlesnake. The following note accom- 
 panies this specimen — " Grows abundantly ; can be easily 
 propagated." There is also a specimen labelled Mokhosi 
 fibre and leaf, probably S. cylindrica, used for making cordage, 
 etc., marked " S.E. Africa, T. Baines, Esq." 
 
 Specimens of the fibre prepared from plants growing at 
 Kew by Death's fibre machine were described by Messrs. Ide 
 and Christie as follows — " This is the second best fibre 
 amongst the samples sent, and except that it does not appear 
 as strong, it is almost equal to .S". longiflora. Value, ^^"28 per 
 ton." 
 
 7. We have at Kew a dried specimen, as well as living 
 plants, of S. SULCATA, which appears to be an unpublished 
 name of Boger's. The plants, probably from East Africa, 
 have never flowered, but in leaf character they are very 
 similar to 5. cylindrica. Under cultivation they are shorter and 
 more slender, with rather deeper vertical grooves, but no bands 
 or markings. A small sample of the fibre of 5. sulcata was 
 prepared, and the brokers' report upon it was as follows — 
 "Similar to fibre o{Furcra;a cnl7cnsis,and of about equal strength. 
 It is howcxer cleaner, and would also compare with Mauritius 
 luMiip. X'alue, .£26 per t(Mi."
 
 EXTRACTS RELATING TO FIBRE-PLANTS 719 
 
 It is quite possible that other species of Sansevicria may be 
 found in Tropical Africa, whilst some, more or less distinct, 
 may be under cultivation in colonial gardens. The illustra- 
 tions given on page 3 of this bulletin \scc pp. 708-9] will assist 
 in the determination of the species mentioned here. Specimens 
 of any other will be gladly accepted for the Kew collections. 
 
 In his synopsis of succulent plants Haworth described 
 briefly a number of additional species of Satiscvieria, which 
 are now lost to cultivation so far as we are aware, and of which 
 no figures or dried specimens are known. It is not improbable 
 that there are many more types in existence than we possess 
 materials for individualizing or recognizing at present. Of 
 plants once in cultivation which Haworth briefly notices, we 
 should be glad of information or specimens of the following : 
 6". liutcvircns, S. eii sifolia, S . glauca, S.polyphylla,S.graiidicuspis, 
 S. pumila, and S.fulvocincta. 
 
 As regards machinery for the extraction of fibre from these 
 plants, the subject is one that lies outside the scope of the 
 Bulletin. Machinery is in use in Yucatan and Mauritius for 
 the extraction of fibre from Agave and Furcrcca leaves, and 
 machines are said to be made suitable for the treatment of 
 leaves of Sansevicria and others. We cannot do better, 
 however, than refer to the literature given on this subject in 
 Spon's Encylopcedia^ Div. iii., pp. 923-930. 
 
 In the chemical extraction of fibres from plants there are 
 several methods under experimental trial, some of which may 
 prove ultimately successful. 
 
 D. M. 
 
 SISAL HEMP.i 
 
 Sisal Hemp, Henequen, or Yucatan hemp, is produced by 
 a species of Agave ^ native of ^Mexico, of which the common 
 " American Aloe " is the type. There are two if not more 
 varieties cultivated for fibre. The chief one is the " Sacqui " 
 {Agave rigida, var. loiigifolia). Plants were received at Kew 
 in 1879, and again in 1890. The other is the " Yaxqui " 
 {Agave rigida, var. Sisalana). The former has leaves with 
 side teeth and a strong terminal spine ; the latter has the 
 terminal spine only ; the edges of the leaves are smooth. 
 
 Cultivation. — These Agave plants are propagated either by 
 suckers from the base of the stem, by seed, or by bulbils 
 (called " pole " plants) produced on the flowering branches. 
 The latter appear in the axils below the flower, and number 
 many thousands. They remain in the parent plant until 
 
 1 From paper by Mr. D. Morris, C.M.G., Assistant Director Royal 
 Gardens, Kew, "On Commercial Fibres," Tropical Agricullurist, 1895-96.
 
 720 APPENDIX E 
 
 they arc about 4 to 6 inches long, and sometimes much 
 longer. The land suited for the cultivation of Sisal hemp is 
 entirely different from that required for Manilla hemp. The 
 best fibre districts in Yucatan possess an arid climate, with 
 gravelly, stony, or rocky soils ; they are only a few feet above 
 the level of the sea ; the summer heat is intense. It is 
 claimed that the fibre is stronger and more abundant in dry 
 hot soils than in rich deep soils. The plantations are formed 
 *vith young plants about 18 to 20 inches high. These 
 are put out in rows, at distances varying from 6 to 12 feet, 
 equal to about 600 to 1000 to the acre. Broad lanes are 
 left here and there for the purpose of making roads or 
 tramways, all converging on the factory, where the leaves 
 are cleaned. A plantation begins to yield in three to five years, 
 depending on the size of the plants when first put in, and the 
 nature of the soil and cultivation. 
 
 Han'cstiiig. — When the leaves are fit to cut, ten to twenty 
 are taken from each plant, beginning from below. The cutting 
 may be repeated two or three times a year, according to the 
 vigour of the plants. As soon as the plant shows signs of 
 " poling " it is regarded as useless for fibre purposes. The pole 
 is cut out and the remaining leaves are harvested soon after. 
 To provide for the continuance of the plantation, it is the 
 custom to place at the foot of each plant (when about three- 
 fourths of its life are spent) a small plant, which replaces the 
 old plant when the latter is removed. The period of the life 
 of a plant may extend from five to ten years or more. 
 Cutting the leaves too severely will accelerate the poling of 
 the plant and thus destroy its usefulness. 
 
 Extracting tJic Fibre. — The leaf-cutters are paid at the rate 
 of 25 cents per day for 200 leaves. The leaves are conveyed 
 from the fields to the factory either on mule-back or by 
 means of light tramways. Each mule carries 200 leaves each 
 trip ; a task of 10,000 leaves requires ten trips, with five 
 mules each. On the tramway a mule can draw a wagon 
 with 3000 leaves, and make five trips a day. Most of the 
 large fibre estates in Yucatan are provided with light portable 
 railways on the French Decauville system. The more com- 
 mon machine used for extracting the fibre is the raspador. It 
 is a rude piece of machinery, consisting simply of a wheel like 
 a four-footed pulley with a 6-inch face. Across the latter 
 are fitted pieces of brass an inch square and 6 inches long, 
 running across the face about a foot apart. This \\heel runs 
 in a hea\y wooden frame, and makes about 1 10 re\'olutions 
 per minute. The leaf is put in at one end of the machine 
 and held by a strong clamp while exposed to the heaters.
 
 EXTRACTS KELATIxNG To FllUvE-l'LANTS 721 
 
 The pulp is soon crushed out of it, leaving only the fibre. 
 The leaf is then reversed, and the other end cleaned in the 
 same way. The average work of one machine, requiring i .', 
 horse-power, is 7000 to 9000 leaves per da)-, with two men 
 feeding. It is estimated that 1000 ordinary leaves will yield 
 50 lbs. of dry fibre. Exceptionally they will yield lOO 
 lbs., but from strong plants from five to seven }'ears old, 
 75 lbs. would be a good yield. After the fibre is cleaned, 
 it is spread out in the sun to dr}'. It is afterwards pressed 
 into bales by lever or screw presses, or by hydraulic pressure. 
 The latter method is becoming general. The bales \-ary from 
 350 to 400 lbs., with a cubic measurement of 22 feet. It 
 is calculated that the total cost of growing and cleaning the 
 fibre and of delivering it at Progress©, the port of shipment, is 
 about 3 1 cents to 4 cents per pound, Mexican money (about 
 I jc/. to rk/. English money). 
 
 Position of the Industry. — The fibre plantations in Yucatan 
 are estimated to cover about 24,000 acres. The total yield 
 in 1894 was 350,000 bales of 375 lbs. each, giving a total 
 weight of 131,250,000 lbs. For the whole country, this would 
 be at the rate of 760 lbs. per acre. The actual return is 
 probably a good deal more, as the total area under cultivation 
 is not all yielding fibre. The estimated yield of the Yucatan 
 plantations in 1895 ^^'^s 400,000 bales. A State duty of 20 
 cents per 100 lbs. is levied on hemp exported from Progress©. 
 A detailed account of the fibre industry in Yucatan is given 
 in the Keiv Bulletin, 1892, pp. 272-277, and 1893, PP- 212-218. 
 The latter was prepared by her Majesty's Vice-Consul at 
 Progress©. A general account of Sisal hemp plants, and 
 efforts to start industries in various countries, is given in the 
 Keiv Bulletin, 1892, pp. 21-40. Attached to this is a return of 
 the average price per ton (spot value) obtained for Sisal hemp 
 in this country for each month from January 1879 to 
 December 1891. The following is a brief summary, based on 
 this return, brought down to September 1895 — 
 
 V 
 
 ear 
 
 1 
 
 Hig 
 
 liest 
 
 Lowest 
 
 .\verage for the year 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 JT. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 1879 . 
 
 
 32 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 r883 . 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 1889 . 
 
 
 56 
 
 10 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 1894 . 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 '5 
 
 
 
 '7 
 
 10 
 
 1895 . 
 Jan. to 
 
 Sept. ) 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 "3 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 3 A-
 
 APPENDIX E 
 
 The fall ill prices, so marked in the United KinydtMn since 
 1889, was ecjually prevalent in the United States. This will 
 appear from the followini^ — 
 
 Price per lb. in 1892 1893 1894 1895 to Sept. 
 
 New York Cents. Cents. Cents. Cents. 
 
 Dec. 31 6to6i 3a to 31;^ 2g to 2| 2| to 4I 
 
 Note added. — The monthly report on Sisal on September 
 15* 1^95) showed a more favourable tendency. The spot 
 value was £\6 to £1^ per ton. 
 
 SISAL HEMP IN THE BAHAMAS.i 
 
 On Inagua Island, the most southern of the Bahamas 
 group, there is a stone building known as the salt-house, 
 under the ample roof of which frequently sounds the clatter 
 of a vigorous donkey-engine. Entering the building, the first 
 sight to meet the eyes is a heajD of sharp-pointed, deep green 
 leaves, which a negro is feeding, one by one, into a rapidly- 
 revolving machine. At his right lies a pile of long, powerful 
 fibre, such as is used in rope-making. Near by is a cart into 
 which a boy is throwing the vegetable waste or pulp which he 
 gathers from beneath the machine. This bagasse, as it is 
 called, is wet with sap, and so strongly acid as to kill other 
 vegetable growth with which it may be brought into contact. 
 The fibre is the product, the bagasse the refuse (as yet unused) 
 of the Sisal leaves. These are about \\ feet in length, 
 averaging longer than do the leaves of the same plant 
 grown in Yucatan. At the base, where they have been cut, 
 they are thicker than a man's hand, and from 3^ to 5 
 inches in breadth, running from this to a point so fine 
 and hard that it can be used as a stiletto. The edges are 
 armed with slight spiny serrations. An attendant with knife 
 and maul removes the sharp points, crushes the thick ends, 
 and divides each leaf longitudinally. Each strip is fed by the 
 negro in charge into the mouth of his machine, through which 
 it is carried half its length by the rapidly-revolving cylinder. 
 It is then drawn out, which scrapes the bagasse from it. 
 Reversing the strip, the operation is repeated, and the result, 
 a long, white " switch " of fibre, is added to the pile already 
 noticed. The fibre is now washed in salt water (which gives 
 better results than if fresh water is used), after which the 
 hanks are hung in a drying-house, or, better still, in the sun 
 
 ' Edgar Mayhew Bacon, Nassau Gitaniian, 1891 — Tropical Agri- 
 ciiltiirist, 1896.
 
 EXTRACTS RELATING TO I-Tl]RE-rLAXTS 723 
 
 till perfectly dry, when the material is ready for baling and 
 shipment. An old turtle tank or " crawl," cut out of the soft 
 calcareous rock, with a small hole in the wall which divides it 
 from the ocean, so that the tide can flow in and out, makes an 
 excellent basin for rinsing the fibre. 
 
 Sisal closely resembles the Manilla hemp of the Spice and 
 Philippine Islands, when prepared for market, and is not unlike 
 it when growing. In Yucatan they are generally known as 
 Hennequin. They possess in varying degrees the strength, 
 length, and lustre of fibre upon which the market value 
 depends. The Sacqui, botanically known as Agave ixtli, 
 introduced some years ago into Florida under the name of 
 Agave sisalana, and often called Maguey, has received the 
 greatest attention from Mexican (Yucatan) cultivators. The 
 plant which is being cultivated in the Bahamas was at first 
 called " Pita," and, although greatly resembling the Sacqui, is 
 considered a superior kind. A number of more or less 
 worthless plants having apparently the same general charac- 
 teristics are to be found throughout the West Indian Islands. 
 A gentleman in Jamaica with 500 acres prepared for 
 hemp-planting, recently showed me the plants which he 
 proposed to use, and which he imagined to be good Sisal. 
 They were the valueless Keratto, the leaves of which might 
 deceive any but an expert, but which upon being cleaned 
 produce a fibre so weak that its cultivation would be utter 
 folly. 
 
 A full-grown Sisal plant has sixty to eighty great leaves 
 growing around a common centre, which incline from a group 
 of upright undeveloped ones in the middle of the cluster to 
 an outer circle that is nearly horizontal. Many leaves 
 measure over 6 feet in length, but the average length of 
 the " ripe " ones, as already stated, is \\ feet. The average 
 number of leaves which may be procured from each plant 
 annually, is over forty, being in excess of the Yucatan pro- 
 duction. The separation of the leaf from the plant is made 
 with a knife near the base, and ripe leaves may be cut from 
 two and a half years old plants, although the length of time 
 required for maturity differs in different localities. One 
 cutting does not exhaust the plant. It may be stripped 
 annually, or even more frequently, for twenty years, and when 
 it shows sign of age may be replaced by a sucker, of which 
 the careful Sisal cultivator will be sure to have a nursery full 
 for such emergencies. The propagation of the Sisal is either 
 by seeds or suckers. The latter spring up around the mature 
 plant constantly, and should be carefully removed, because
 
 ^24 APPENDIX E 
 
 they sap the life of the parent, and also for the reason that 
 they are most valuable for replantinc^. When plants remain 
 uncut for too long a time, a huge flower-stalk shoots up from 
 the centre to the height of i8 feet. After having flowered 
 and matured its seeds the plant invariably dies. 
 
 ExiJcrienced growers use 650 jjlants to the acre, in rows 
 1 1 feet by 6 feet distant from each other. This will gi\'e 
 room for the labourers to walk between the rows without 
 being wounded by the terrible spurs which, like a cluster 
 of keen spears, make each plant a menace to the unwary. 
 Besides this, the closer planting would result in the pierc- 
 ing of innumerable leav'es every time the wind blew, and the 
 consequent destruction of much fibre. Stabs and bruises 
 mean discolouration, and the expense of sorting damaged 
 lots, apart from the proportional loss, would be an added 
 and not insignificant item in the labour account of a plant- 
 ation. Many people who have caught the "Sisal fe\er" are 
 planting acre after acre, expecting nothing less than that the 
 farms, when planted, u'ill take care of themselves. To be 
 successful in this enterprise requires unceasing activity and 
 care. One must be Argus-eyed. One season of poor prices, 
 with the constant discouragement which is apt to follow in 
 the case of nine small proprietors out of ten, in a country 
 where the peasantry are all negroes, will result in an over- 
 growth of suckers and the poling of mature plants till nothing 
 short of absolute clearing and starting anew will save the 
 farms. There is no cultivation where system and perseverance 
 are more necessary to success. The dropping of the seed from 
 a single " pole," if not watched and attended to immediately, 
 will produce little spears enough to destroy a hundred plants, 
 and I have frequently seen a dozen suckers start up around 
 and under the leaves of their parent. After such crowding 
 the leaves would be worthless, even could they be reached ; 
 but no man, unless arrayed in metal armour strong and stout 
 enough to withstand the thrust of steel, would be so fool- 
 hardy as to attempt to penetrate such a growth. What I 
 want to impress is the fact that without that patient and 
 systematic care, which I have nowhere observed as character- 
 istic of the un-led negro, a field of Sisal is as valueless as a 
 field of mullein. 
 
 The hardiness of the Sisal is something wonderful. It 
 grows best on lands w^hich seem good for nothing else. Rock 
 land where the hardy sage, the sword-plant, or cactus crowd 
 the stunted, gnarled hard-wood trees ; where the fissures in 
 the sun-hardened limestone are filled with a dry, sand)' soil.
 
 EXTRACTS RELATINCx TO FIRRE-PLANTS 725 
 
 and hardly a barrelful of that to the acre, will produce Sisal. 
 If hard pushed, it will grow in the air, without soil ; I have 
 twelve living plants which I kept shut up for eighteen months 
 in a cigar-box without light, air, or water. But such growth 
 as will result in a marketable commodity is a different matter. 
 That requires a soil not too rich, which induces fatness and 
 loss of fibre ; not too poor, or the plant grows dwarfed. The 
 ground must not be too wet or too dry. 
 
 When the right spot has been found; when the selection of 
 seeds or suckers, the preliminary preparation, has been accom- 
 plished ; then, the choice of season hastens or retards the 
 work of preparing the ground for the reception of the plants. 
 Of course there is no winter; no frost or cold to contend 
 with; no blizzard to calculate for. But there are rainy and 
 dry seasons. One must calculate so that the necessary burn- 
 ing of cut brush and trees will not occur when the fires are 
 liable to be extinguished by the violent downpour of the 
 "winter" rains, nor the planting delayed until the dry months 
 interfere with the advance of the young plants. All the 
 ground is gone over first with the " machete," a long heavy 
 cutlass-like knife, which the negro uses either as a tool or 
 weapon. All trees and underbush are cut clown except the 
 very large ones, which require an axe; then the stumps are 
 grubbed up so far as they are likely to interfere with the 
 work. Next fire is employed, and quickly runs over the acres 
 where the negroes have toiled in gangs with their cutlasses. 
 In this work of clearing, women are often found more satis- 
 factory as labourers than men ; they receive but 36 cents 
 where the men get 50 cents. Few labourers are paid by the 
 day, "task-land" is the usual method. In clearing brush-land 
 in the Bahamas, one-fourth of an acre is a task. When, at last, 
 all the clearing and planting has been done, and thousands 
 upon thousands of perfect plants, in absolute symmetr\' of 
 arrangement, with unbroken ranks, their rich green showing 
 no blemish, stretch before the eye, the spectator (especially 
 if he has a financial interest in the plantation) feels that there 
 is a beauty apart from mere picturesqueness. The present 
 boom in Sisal in the Bahamas, like all excitement of the 
 kind, doomed, without doubt, to considerable depression in 
 the future, will not be without beneficial results ; there will 
 remain a new industry, a source of greater prosperity to a 
 people who have been for many years almost inactive.
 
 APPENDIX F 
 
 SIR JOHN KIRK'S GARDEN AT ZANZIBAR i 
 
 As pointed out in the Kcii.< Bnlletin for 1893, p. 363, 
 numerous notices have appeared in these pages recording the 
 attempts made, by means of the Botanic Station system, to 
 develop the material progress of the West African colonies. 
 
 So far, however, it has not been formally applied to the 
 British possessions on the East Coast. The transmission of 
 tropical plants, suitable for cultivation in those territories, is 
 not unattended with difficulty, and a convenient station on 
 the coast, where they could be propagated, and from which 
 they could be drawn, would undoubtedly be of great utility to 
 intending planters both in British East and in British Central 
 Africa. 
 
 As regards the latter territory, Mr. Alexander Whyte, act- 
 ing under the instructions of Sir Harry Johnston, K.C.B., H.M. 
 Commissioner and Consul-General, commenced a small 
 botanical garden in 1891 at Zomba, the head-quarters of the 
 administration. An account of the enterprise is given in the 
 Kciv Bulletin for August last (pp. 186- 191). The site is, 
 however, some 400 miles from the coast, and plants trans- 
 mitted from England can only reach it by the Zambesi. 
 There is every reason, howe\-er, to beHe^•e that the Shire 
 Highlands will become the seat of an important planting 
 industry. Coffee was introduced as long ago as 1878. It 
 has been cultivated with great success by the Messrs. 
 Buchanan, and thirt}' estates "have been opened up." Shir6 
 Highland coffee commands a high price on the London 
 market. 
 
 The first attempt to establish a depot on the East Coast 
 was due to private initiative. 
 
 ^ Reprinted Ijy special permission of the Controller of Her Majesty's 
 Stationery Office, from " J>otanical Enterprise in East Africa."— Royal 
 hardens, Kcw Ihilldiu for March ard April 1896, Nos. iii, \\2.
 
 SIR JOHN KIRK'S GARDEN AT ZANZIBAR 737 
 
 As stated in the Kezo Bulletin, 1892, p. 87, "during the 
 time Sir John Kirk, G.C.M.G., K.C.B., was Agent and Consul- 
 General at Zanzibar, he maintained at his own expense an 
 experimental garden in which he tried every useful tropical 
 plant likely to be adapted to the climate. These were for 
 the most part supplied from Kew." 
 
 Apart from this, he took, from his first residence in the 
 country, an enthusiastic interest in the botany of Tropical 
 East Africa, and his collection of specimens of its little-known 
 vegetation are amongst the most important available for the 
 " Flora of Tropical Africa " in preparation at Kew. 
 
 He was not less interested in promoting industries that 
 have since proved of the utmost value both to the natives and 
 to Europeans in that part of the world. 
 
 The utility of work of this kind, fortunately, does not 
 cease with the removal of the hand which carried it on. The 
 benefits which are still derived from Sir John Kirk's garden 
 in Zanzibar are illustrated by the following passage in Mr. 
 Alexander \Vh}-te's Report on Botanical Work in British 
 Central Africa, lately published by the Foreign Office, and 
 already cited in the Kew Bulletin (1895, p. 187) — 
 
 " During the short stay of Mr. Johnston's expedition at 
 Zanzibar in June 1891, Captain Sclater and I visited Sir 
 John Kirk's old garden a short way out of town, which is now 
 a station of the Universities Mission. Through the kind 
 courtesy of the lady missionaries, I procured the seeds of a 
 good many economic and ornamental plants from the garden, 
 such as Liberian coffee, Casuarina, cassias, guavas, anonas, 
 passifloras, mango, orange, cucurbitaceous plants, pineapple 
 shoots, etc., and nearly all of them are now doing well at 
 Zomba. I also brought with me a supply of ripe cacao-pods, 
 from the same garden or plantation, which plant had been 
 introduced years ago by Sir John Kirk. The seeds from 
 these pods, I regret very much to say, failed to germinate." 
 
 A fuller account of the present condition of the garden is 
 contained in the following notes of a recent \-isit, taken from 
 the Zanzibar Gazette of August 28, 1894 — 
 
 " Mr. Crabbe, the Ceylon planter, who was passing through 
 here last week on his way to Xyassaland, paid a special visit 
 to Mbweni, for the purpose of noting the condition of the 
 coffee plantations, started by Sir John Kirk at the close of his 
 time here. 
 
 " Mr. Crabbe was well pleased with the condition of many 
 of the trees, and as the crop was ripe and falling, he opened 
 some berries, and considered some of the beans quite fine.
 
 728 APPENDIX F 
 
 1 lo in;ulc sc\'cral rccfjinincnclaticjiis, which were duly trans- 
 mitted to the Rev. J. Key, who takes great interest in the 
 plantation, but who was unfortunately away from home at 
 the time. 
 
 " The tea, which is now in full blossom, and affords a pretty 
 sight, well worth a drive to visit, Mr. Crabbe considered a 
 poor kind, and for the leaf hardly worth growing, and he did 
 not recommend its extension. 
 
 " The cacoa he considered planted in too windy a site, but 
 walking about the shamba, pointed out many spots on which 
 he thought it could be planted to better advantage." 
 
 In the Zanzibar Gazette of September ii, 1895, there is 
 an appreciative review of Sir John Kirk's work in East Africa. 
 His services to botany and horticulture are referred to as 
 follows — 
 
 " Besides these main features of his rule, minor affairs of 
 the island were his constant solicitude. Agriculture, horti- 
 culture, experimental planting, the rearing of botanical 
 specimens, all engaged his attention. The specimens of 
 imported plants still to be seen in his old shamba at 
 Mbweni, full of interest to the interested visitor who is lucky 
 enough to find them, show how keen was his enthusiasm for 
 the adornment of the place, while his efforts to establish a 
 profitable occupation for the natives, in connection wnth coffee- 
 planting and aloe fibre manufacture, may e^'en }'et bear fruit. 
 Hardl}' is there a flower displa}-ed upon a dinner-table in 
 Zanzibar which does not owe its introduction into the island 
 to Sir John Kirk ; and had he remained here, with all the 
 opportunities the place affords, Zanzibar might now be a 
 floral and arboreal Paradise ; as it is, his memory will be kept 
 ever green in this way alone." 
 
 Almost every economic production of East Africa has, at 
 one time or another, received attention from Sir John Kirk. 
 He virtually created the rubber trade of the East Coast. 
 This has attained in some years to a value of over ;^200,ooo. 
 The plants yielding the rubber discovered by him are 
 enumerated in the Kczv Report for 1880 (pp. 39-42). 
 
 Again, plants of the East African copal, TracJiylobiuni 
 Jior)ienian7iiaiinin, were received from him, as well as specimens 
 of the Bark Cloth of Uganda {Keiv Bulletin, 1892, p. 58) ; 
 Kew is also indebted to him for seeds and particulars of two 
 new species of African plantains {Musa livingstotiiana and 
 M. proboscideci) as recorded in the Keiv Bulletin (1894, p. 225). 
 
 A kind of d\'e-wood {Cardiogynie afrieana, Bur.), probably 
 of ccf)nomic value, was described b}- Sir John Kirk {Journal
 
 SIR JOHN KIRK'S GARDEN AT ZANZIBAR 729 
 
 of the Linncaii Society, ix., p. 229) as the produce of a new 
 species of Ciidraiiia. The edible fruit has somewhat the 
 flavour of an insipid custard-apple. The tree ranges at least 
 from the Zanzibar coast to British Central Africa, where it is 
 apparently abundant. Bentham and Hooker {Genera Plant- 
 arum, iii., p. 362) refer it to Pleeospcnnuni ; but now that 
 the fruit is known to consist of free drupelets, it is better 
 perhaps to give it generic rank. 
 
 Sir John Kirk's services to horticulture at home cover the 
 whole period of his residence in Africa, The following list of 
 plants introduced by him to European gardens, chiefly through 
 Kew, is an interesting record of what is possible to be done 
 by an enthusiastic and devoted traveller — 
 
 PLANTS INTRODUCED FROM EAST TROPICAL AFRICA 
 TO KEW BY SIR JOHN KIRK. 
 
 Aloe brachystacJiys, Baker, n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 7399. 
 
 Aloe concinna, Baker, n. sp. 
 
 Aloe Kirkii, Baker, n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 7386. 
 
 Aloe penduliflora. Baker, n. sp. 
 
 Clilorophytiiin Kirkii., Baker, n. sp.; Gard. Cliron., 1882, i. 108. 
 
 Clerodendron cepJialanthnm, Oliver, n. sp. ; Ic. PL, t. 1557- 
 
 Crinwn Hildebrandtii, Vatke ; Bot. Mag., t. 6709. 
 
 Crinmn Kirkii, Baker, n. sp. ; Bot.- Mag., t. 6512. 
 
 Driniiopsis Kirkii, Baker, n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 6276. 
 
 EncepJialartos Hildebrandtii, A. Br. 
 
 Hibiseiis seJiirjopetalus, Hook, f , n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 6524. 
 
 Impatiens Sultaui, Hook, f , n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 6643. 
 
 Ka^mpferia {Ceifikowskia) Kirkii, n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 5993. 
 
 Keraiuanthus Kirkii, Hook, f, n. gen. ; Bot. Mag., t. 6271. 
 
 Landolphia florida, Bcnth. ; Bot. Mag., t. 6963. 
 
 Laiidolphia Kirkii, Dyer, n. sp. 
 
 Landolphia pctersiana, Dyer, n. sp. 
 
 Landolphia Watsoni, Dyer, n. sp. 
 
 Musa livingstoniana. Kirk, n. sp. ; Jonrn. Lin. Soe., ix. 128. 
 
 Musa proboscidea, Oliver, n. sp. ; Ic. PL, t. 1777. 
 
 NeobentLianiia gracilis, Rolfe, n. gen. ; Bot. Mag., t. 7221. 
 
 OcJina Kirkii, Oliver, n. sp. 
 
 Sansevieria Kirkii, Baker, n. sp. ; Bot. Mag., t. 7357. 
 
 In a letter published in the same number of the Bulletin, 
 Sir John Kirk, discussing the question of a central station for 
 the propagation and distribution of tropical plants on the 
 East Coast, says — 
 
 " Between Nyasa and Zanzibar wc have no interest, and as 
 at Zanzibar and on the opposite mainland at Mombasa the
 
 730 APPENDIX F 
 
 climate is tropical, a separate station is there needed. Natal 
 would not serve as a centre, partly from the distance, the 
 want of rapid communication and the nature of the climate, 
 that of Natal being sub-tropical, and not fitted for many of 
 the plants that might thrive near the equator. 
 
 " The best point for a central garden to serve the Zanzibar 
 and inland regions, would be a little inland from the port of 
 Mombasa, which is a port of regular call by steamships. At 
 a distance of from ten to fifteen miles inland, at the foot of 
 the coast hills, or to the south in the Shiruba Hills, a suitable 
 site with a rich soil and abundant water could be found. 
 
 " The further advantage of such a position is that it would 
 be at the base of a railway-line, the construction of which is 
 only a question of a short time, if we intend to hold our 
 Protectorate in Uganda. 
 
 " Something might be said for making the station on the 
 island of Zanzibar, where I had my experimental garden, but 
 the climate and soil of the island do not suit many plants 
 that might well be introduced. I would therefore prefer a 
 mainland station, as near to Mombasa and the railwa)- base 
 of the future as may be." 
 
 No step has yet been taken to establish a depot for British 
 East Africa. Meanwhile Sir John Kirk's garden still continues 
 to do useful service. 
 
 Extract from the ' Gazette for Zanzibar and East Africa', 
 November 27, 1895. 
 
 " The Rev. Pere Merel, only last week, on behalf of the 
 Fathers of the Holy Ghost, took away with him a large 
 quantity of berries for planting at their Mission station of 
 Pura in the Taita district, these being kindly supplied by 
 Miss Thackeray from her specimen plants at Mbweni, planted 
 by Sir John Kirk. 
 
 " This has brought coffee-planting to our doors. We hope 
 fromtime to timcto publishintelligencehelpful in these matters." 
 
 In a private letter, dated December 15, 1895, Sir J. Kirk 
 writes in regard to his Zanzibar garden, which he transferred 
 to Miss Thackeray of the Universities Mission — " It is a great 
 satisfaction to know that the results have not been thrown 
 away, but are even at this late date beginning to bear fruit. 
 The Germans have long well appreciated the store of fruit 
 trees and flowers, cuttings and seeds of which were to be had, 
 and the trojiical species of Eucalyptus, such as E. citriodora 
 that I grew, are now common from seed obtained from m\-trees."
 
 APPEiNDIX G 
 
 THE CLOVE TREEi 
 
 "The clove tree {CajyophjI/ns anvnaficiis),'' sa}'s Rumphius, 
 " appears to be the most beautiful, the most elegant, and the 
 most precious of all known trees. In form it commonly 
 resembles the laurel, and sometimes the beech. Generally 
 of the height of an ordinary cherry tree, its trunk is straight, 
 and rises to 4 or 5 feet before it throws out branches. The 
 bark is smooth, thin, and adheres closely to the wood, which 
 is hard and strong, but of an ugly grey colour, and therefore 
 not suited for cabinet work." 
 
 " In the commencement of the wet season, which is the 
 month of May in the native country of the clove (the Moluccas), 
 the tree throws out a profusion of new leaves, the flowers 
 grow in small bunches, upon branched peduncles, at the 
 extremities of the boughs ; they are of a delicate peach- 
 blossom colour. The calyx is elongated and encloses the 
 seed-vessel. As soon as the corolla begins to fade, the calyx 
 changes its colour, first to yellow and then to red. It, together 
 with the undeveloped seed, is at this stage of its growth (about 
 four months old) the clove of commerce." It is at this period 
 that the clove is fit to be used as a spice, and of course this 
 is the period of harvesting. "If suffered to remain on the tree 
 longer, the calyx gradually swells somewhat in the manner 
 of that of a rose ; the seed enlarges, and the pungent 
 properties of the clove are in a great part dissipated. In this 
 state it entirely loses its value as a spice, and is then called 
 a ' mother clove,' which is only valuable as a seed for propa- 
 gating the plant," and consists of a large ovoid purple berry 
 containing one or two seeds. "The whole tree is strongly 
 
 1 For this information I am chiefly indebted to the following works- 
 Porter's Tropical Ao;ricidtitnst, Nicholas Tropical Agriculture, and 
 Messrs. A. and M. j. Ferguson's Spice Culfivation. 
 
 731
 
 732 APPENDIX G 
 
 aromatic, and the petioles of the leaves have nearly the same 
 pungency as the calyces of the flowers. The leaves themselves 
 partake strongly of the qualities of the buds, and do not lose 
 their aroma when dried ; they ma)', therefore, form a good 
 substitute in cookery." 
 
 " There appear to be five varieties of cloves, viz. the 
 ordinary cultivated clove; the clove called the 'female clove' 
 by the natives, which has a pale stem ; the ' keri,' or loory 
 clove ; the ' royal ' clove, which is very scarce ; and the wild 
 clove. The first three are equally valuable as spices, the 
 'female' being considered fittest for the distillation of 
 essential oil. The wild clove has hardly any aromatic flavour, 
 and is consequently of no value." 
 
 " Of all useful plants, the clove has perhaps the most limited 
 geographical distribution. It was originally confined to the 
 five Molucca Islands, and chiefly to Bachian ; from these it 
 was conveyed to Ambo}'na, a very short time before the 
 arrival of the Portuguese. That part of Ambo}'na called 
 Le}-timur, and the Uliasser Islands, produced no cloves until 
 the arrival of the Dutch, by whom the cultivation was restricted 
 to Amboyna, and every effort was made to extirpate the plant 
 elsewhere. To what distance from the parent country the 
 culture might be successfully extended, there has been no 
 opportunity of ascertaining. Rumphius informs us that the 
 plant is not partial to large islands, and did not answer well 
 in Gilolo, Ceram, Burn, or Celebes ; and that it was probable 
 that Buru and the Xulla Islands were the utmost western 
 limits of its successful culture. The same writer adds that 
 the Javanese and Macassars, when they were the carriers in 
 the spice trade to the western emporia of the Archipelago, 
 conveyed to their own country, with great care, young clove 
 plants and mother cloves from which trees were reared, but 
 {produced no fruit. Through the speculative enterprise of 
 Europeans the clove plant has in later times been cultivated 
 so as to bear fruit in some of the western parts of the 
 Archipelago, in the Mauritius, and in the West Indies. Clove 
 trees have been cultivated for nearly fifty years in the 
 Mauritius, where they bear fruit of inferior quality and high 
 price. The fact seems to be that, like the grape, but in a 
 much higher degree, the clove may be raised at a heavy 
 expense but of inferior quality, in soil and climate little 
 suited to it. How wonderfull}' restricted the soil and climate 
 of the clove are, may be gathered from the well-known fact 
 that in the parent islands the tree )'ields fruit in the seventh 
 and eighth >'ear of its growth, whereas in Ambo\-na, where it
 
 The clove tree 735 
 
 is an exotic, it docs not bear until the tenth and twelfth year, 
 and demands considerable care and attention." 
 
 "The clove does not thrive well near the sea, where it suffers 
 from the spray, nor in the higher mountains, where it suffers 
 from the cold." 
 
 "The soil which suits it best is a dark loam, having under- 
 neath a layer of dusky yellow earth, intermixed with gravel. 
 A sandy soil, a hardy clay, and the rich damp ground in 
 which sedges grow are to be avoided." 
 
 " The tree may be propagated either directly from the 
 mother cloves, or by transplanting the self-sown seedlings 
 found in the clove gardens. The plants raised by the first 
 method (directly from seed) grow luxuriantly, but are alleged 
 to yield more leaves than fruit, and from growing remarkably 
 straight are difficult to climb for the purpose of collecting the 
 harvest. The trees propagated by the second method are 
 preferred, but the culture is laborious, and the success of the 
 operation uncertain until the plants have'attained the height 
 of 5 or 6 feet. The young plants at first require the shade 
 of other trees, and must therefore be planted under them. 
 As they grow up the latter must be removed, leaving here 
 and there a few fruit trees such as the kanari and the coco-nut, 
 etc., the proximity of which it has been discovered is favour- 
 able to the clove." 
 
 " Clove trees must be kept pruned, and care must be taken 
 that they are not choked with weeds, or by too many of the 
 fruit trees just mentioned ; failure in attention to these points 
 causes the plants to languish or degenerate into wild cloves." 
 
 " Such is the culture requisite in Amboyna, where the soil and 
 climate are foreign to the plant, and where much care and 
 attention are required. In its native country, on the contrary, 
 the clove grows luxuriantly and almost spontaneously, being 
 propagated and coming to perfection with hardly any culture. 
 In the Moluccas, as already mentioned, the clove tree begins 
 to yield fruit in the seventh or eighth year, but at Amboyna 
 not until the tenth or twelfth ; " and in the former the trees are 
 generally " topped " and kept within 8 or 9 feet high for the 
 greater convenience of gathering the produce — but if left to 
 nature they would attain a much greater height. 
 
 " Examples are given of clove trees living to the age of one 
 hundred and fifty years, but the ordinary duration of their life 
 in Amboyna does not average seventy-five. Much depends 
 upon the nature of the soil and ground in which the trees 
 have taken root. The clove, though generally a hardy plant, 
 suffers from excessive drought, and is apt to be destroyed b)-
 
 734 APPENDIX G 
 
 the depredations of a worm which insinuates itself into the 
 wood and kills the tree. In particular seasons thousands 
 have perished from this cause." 
 
 So much as regards clove cultivation in the Moluccas and 
 Amboyna ; I will now add a few particulars regarding the 
 attempts made to extend the culture of the plant beyond its 
 native area, and the degree of success attained. 
 
 " M. Buee, the first cultivator of the clove tree in Dominica, 
 obtained for his commencing essay only one young plant, 
 about half a foot high, having no more than six or eight 
 leaves. Pursuing the directions received with it, he planted 
 it in rich soil, and in the shade of other trees. It did not, 
 however, thrive, and he had the mortification of seeing it 
 wither and soon die away. He then procured two other 
 plants from Cayenne, and planted these near the house for the 
 convenience of watching them, but the soil here was very 
 poor. Fourteen more plants were subsequently obtained, 
 and M. Buee plantisd these in various situations and soils. 
 He found that the plant grew with sufficient luxuriance in a 
 sterile soil, composed of a yellowish or reddish stiff clay, 
 such as that in which the pimento flourishes, but which, for 
 the generality of crops, is scarcely fit for cultivation. Sixteen 
 hundred trees were afterwards raised from seed, which in a 
 year from the first sowing were transplanted. 
 
 " The following is the manner in which M. Buee cultivated 
 the plants in Dominica. The seeds were sown about 6 inches 
 apart from one another in beds. Over these beds small 
 frames were erected about 3 feet from the ground, and 
 plantain leaves were spread on the top in order to shelter 
 them from the sun. The leaves were allowed gradually to 
 decay, and, at the end of nine months, the young plants by 
 that time were strong enough to receive the benefit of the 
 sun ; but if not protected from it when very young they were 
 found to droop and die. 
 
 "When transplanted the trees were placed at 16 feet apart. 
 They grew very luxuriantly, and at the end of fifteen months 
 after their removal attained the height of 3 to 4 feet. The 
 ground where they were planted had previously been a coffee 
 plantation for forty years. The coffee trees had decayed, 
 and an attempt had been made to replace them, but they 
 refused to grow, whereas the cloves flourished as if on con- 
 genial soil, and a crop was gathered from some of them when 
 they were not more than six years old, which is two or three 
 years earlier than the usual time of gathering. 
 
 " The cloves sent from St. Vincent to Eni/land in 1800 were
 
 THE CLOVE TREE 735 
 
 obtained from trees 8 feet high, leaving a stem only 2 
 inches in diameter. Trial was made on this island of the 
 relative growth of the plant on different soils. It grew sickly 
 on land which was not manured, but on manured land 
 it flourished. It should be planted in a situation not exposed 
 to high winds." 
 
 The method of gathering and airing the cloves is sub- 
 stantially the same in both the Moluccas and Amboyna. As 
 the cloves become ripe they are picked from the tree ; if 
 allowed to remain for one gathering alone, only part would be 
 of any value, and the rest would be either in a too forward 
 or too backward state to be used as spice. In the Moluccas, 
 at the time of gathering cloths are spread on the ground 
 (which in Amboyna is clean swept). " The nearest clusters are 
 taken off with the hand and the more inaccessible with the 
 assistance of crooked sticks. Great care is necessary that the 
 trees in this operation should not be rudely handled, as an 
 injury done to them in this way would prevent them bearing 
 for years." 
 
 The curing of the cloves consists in placing them for some 
 days on hurdles, where they are smoked by a slow wood fire 
 which gives them a brown colour ; and afterwards drying 
 them in the sun, when they turn black, as we see them as the 
 article of commerce, into which this last process converts them. 
 In some places they are scalded in hot water before they are 
 smoked ; but this practice is not common. Such cloves as 
 casually fall on the ground and are picked up in small quanti- 
 ties, the cultivators do not think it worth while to subject to 
 the process of smoking ; they are merely dried in the sun, 
 which gives them a shrivelled appearance by which they are 
 recognized, and lessens their value ; 3. properly dried clove is of 
 a light brown or tan colour. 
 
 The period of harv-est in Amboyna is from October to 
 December. "Of the fecundity of the clove it is not very easy 
 to speak distinctly. The produce from one year to another 
 is very unequal. At intervals of from three to six years the 
 trees usually yield one extraordinary crop, but on the other 
 hand, a year now and then occurs when they do not bear at 
 all. Rumphius and Valentyn speak of a remarkable tree, a 
 hundred and thirty years old, which in one year gave the 
 enormous crop of 11 00 lbs., and another year half that 
 quantity. The proportion of about two-thirds of a clove 
 plantation is considered to be bearing trees, the remaining 
 third being allowed for barren and young trees. According 
 to the data of 5 lbs. per tree and seventy-five trees to an acre,
 
 736 APPENDIX G 
 
 the jM'oducc will be 375 lbs. avoirdupois, and deducting one- 
 cii^hth for young trees under ten years, 32<S lbs. By a free 
 culture, as in the case of jjepper, a much larger produce than 
 is here stated would no doubt be obtained." 
 
 I will conclude by a reference to the cultivation in the 
 Straits. Settlements — 
 
 " Penang cloves, like the nutmegs, have the reputation of 
 being the best in the market, commanding a higher price than 
 Amboyna (Moluccas) and Zanzibar cloves. Boys and girls 
 from ten to fourteen years old answer best for the purpose of 
 picking the buds. The gathering time lasts only a few days. 
 The buds after being gathered are spread on large sieves or 
 mats of loose texture, and dried under the shade of trees, or 
 in sheds with palm-leaf covered roofs, and are then ready for 
 the market." 
 
 As already remarked, a strong objection prevails against 
 the direct sun-drying process, as it not only shrivels and 
 blackens the buds but also evaporates much of their strength.
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF AUTHORITIES 
 REFERRED TO 
 
 Africa, Xo. 5, Foreign Office Report, 1895 : Report on the Revenue and 
 
 Administration of Zanzibar, 566 
 Afiica/i Pilots 3 
 
 Bacon, Edgar ^layhew, " Sisal Hemp in the Bahamas," 722 
 Baker, J. G., Monograph of the Asparagace;T2 {Journal of the Litinean 
 
 Society^ vol. xiv.), 710 
 Belfast Rope Co., 234 
 
 ]3entham & Hooker, " Genera Planlarum,'" 729 
 Botanical Enterprise in East Africa {Kcio Bullet in for March and April 
 
 1896, Nos. Ill, 112), 726 
 Botanical Magazine, 235, 707, 713, 71?, 7^9 
 Bower, Messrs. William, & Sons, valuation of cotton from Mattaroni, 
 
 . .396, 397 . 
 British Association for the Advancement of Science, Meteorological and 
 
 Climatological returns of, 656 
 Callaway, Bishop, " Zulu Collections," 107 
 Carter, Sir G. F. (Administrator), Report on the Agricultural Industries of 
 
 the Gambia, 228 
 Charlesworth, D., on cattle plague, 348 
 Christie, Dr. James, A.M., M.D., "Cholera Epidemics of East Africa," 
 
 508, 509 
 Christie, John, on the Sanseviei'ia fibre, 235, 236 ; on East African fibres, 
 
 App. B, 625 
 Collyer, C. E., on Sansevieria cylindrica, 234 
 Commelinus, Horti Medici Amstelodamensis Rariorum Plantarum 
 
 Descriptio, 711 
 Consul-General's Report on the Trade of Zanzibar for the year 1895, 561, 
 
 562, 573 
 Cross, Robert, 226, 227 ; Report on the investigation and collecting of 
 
 plants and seeds of the indiarubber trees of Para and Ceara and 
 
 Balsam of Copaiba, 678 
 Dundas, Captain, R.N., Exploration of the Tana {Proceedings of tJic 
 
 Royal Geographical Society, August 1892), 339 
 " Emin Pasha in Central Africa," 349 
 
 Ferguson, A. M., and J., "Cultural Industries for Queensland: Cin- 
 namon Cultivation," 582 ; "Coco-nut Cultivation," 219, 632 ; " Spice 
 
 Cultivation," 583 
 Ferguson, J., The Production of Coffee and Tea in British Dependencies, 
 
 letter to The Tinies, June i, 1896, 627 
 " Flora of Tropical Africa " (in preparation), 727 
 Foulkis, Joseph (extracts from a letter to the author), on Bowstring 
 
 Hemp, 233 
 Gardening Chronicle, 729 
 
 Gazette for Zanzibar and East Africa, 727, 728, 730 
 Gray, C. E., Government veterinary surgeon in Rhodesia, on symptoms 
 
 of cattle-disease in Africa, 349 
 Haldane, "Sub-Tropical Cultivation and Climates," 513 
 Hart, J. H., Superintendent of the Trinidad Royal Botanical Gardens, 
 
 " Cocoa ; its Natural History, Culture and Preparation," 551, 578, 580 
 
 737 3 B
 
 738 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF AUTHORITIES RKI-ERRKI) TO 
 
 Haworth's Synopsis of Succulent Plants, 719 
 
 Hooker, Sir William, on fibres, 235 ; on " Ife ''" fibre, 717 
 
 Home, on Sansevieria in Mauritius, 716 
 
 Howard, L. O., on United States cotton culture, Bulletin issued by 
 U.S.A. Dept. of Agriculture, 638, 639 
 
 Ide and Christie, Report on \alue of Sansevieria cylindrica, 234 ; valua- 
 tion of red banana fibre from Trinidad, 571 ; report on Sansevieria 
 zeylanica from Trinidad, 713 ; on another kind from Zanzibar, 714 
 
 Imperial Institute. See Collyer. 
 
 India Mercury^ on the Coir Industry, 630 
 
 Jacquin, " Hortus Vindobonensis," 711 
 
 Jardine, W., " Cocoa Cultivation in Ceylon," 580 
 
 Johnston, Sir Harry, K.C.M.G., on needs of East Africa, 551 
 
 Jones, Sir William, "Asiatic Researches," 716 
 
 Journal of t lie Linncan Society^ 710, 729 
 
 Keio Bulletin of Miscellaneous Itiforination, 228, 235, 511, 312, 547, 577, 
 578, 707, 721, 726-730 
 
 Kew Report, 1880, 729 
 
 Kirk, Sir John, K.C.M.G., meteorological observations, 511-513; 
 Agricultural Resources of Zanzibar [Kext' Bulletin), 547 ; on San- 
 sexieria fibre, 549 ; on coftee cultivation in Xyasaland, 551 ; letter 
 on olive cultivation, 649 ; letter on extension of Experimental Cul- 
 ture in British East Africa {Ke-iu Bulletin), 729 
 
 Lugard, Captain F. D., " Rise of our East African Empire,'' 230, 347, 348 
 
 Mackinnon, Dr., on cattle disease, 348 
 
 Morris, D., Assistant Director, Royal Gardens, Kew, Commercial fibres 
 {Keiu Bulletin), 578 ; memorandum on the Experimental Cultivation 
 of Economic Plants in West Africa {Kew Bulletin), 2 28 
 
 Nassau Guardian, 722 
 
 Nicholl, "Tropical Agriculture," 722, 731 
 
 Overland Ceylo)i Observer, 210 
 
 Penaug Gazette, 219 
 
 Porter, Tropical Agriculturist, 248, 511, 352, 566, 569, 731 
 
 Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society. See Dundas. 
 
 Ravenstein, E. G., "Report on Meteorological Observations in British 
 East Africa for 1893,'' 9, 510, 513, 656 
 
 Redoute, " Liliacea^,"' 716 
 
 Report on the Cultivation of Cotton in the Witu District ; Foreign 
 Ofiice ^Miscellaneous Series, No. 251, for 1892, 637 
 
 Rogers, Captain, on cattle disease, 34S 
 
 Rumphius, on the Clove, 731, 732, 735 
 
 Selous, F. C, The Economic Geography of Rhodesia {Times, August 25, 
 1897), 347 ; "Travels and Adventures in South Africa," 357, 358 
 
 Spon, " Encyclopiedia of the Industrial Arts, Manufactures, and Com- 
 mercial Products," 644, 647, 719 
 
 Taylor, Rev. W. E., " \'ocabulary of the Giryama Languages," 99 
 
 Thompson, Joseph, " Through Masai Land," 300 
 
 Times, 347, 349, 627 ; Report on the Indian Tobacco Industry, 652 
 
 Tropical Agriculturist. See Porter. 
 
 Valentyn, on the Clove, 735 
 
 Weaver, ]., on Magarini cotton, 637 
 
 Whyte, A., Report on the Botanical Aspects of British Central Africa, 
 Foreign Office, 1895, No. 373, 357, 727 
 
 Zanzibar Gazette. See Gazette.
 
 INDEX
 
 INDEX 
 
 Abirikimo, or dwarfs of the interior, 
 
 615 
 Abyssinia, cattle plague in, 347, 348 
 Acacia-tree, distribution of, 345 
 Accounts, complicated, 36, 71 
 Aden, trade with E. Africa, 60, 348, 
 
 503 ; possible extension, 568 
 African natives, method of treating, 
 
 502, 503 
 After-rains of Zanzibar and Uganda, 
 
 510 
 Agave fibre, 234, 577, 578, 719 
 Agricultural customs, Giryama, 105, 
 III; Watiku, 476 
 development of Zanzibar, and its 
 needs (see Capital, Roads, and 
 Scotch planters), 547 — 552, 561, 
 562 ; future, of Pemba, 61 1 
 implements, 43, 57, 334, 556 
 methods, native, 18, 22, 23, 43, 
 60, 77, in Zanzibar, 518, 519, 
 520, 523, 526, 529, 552, Swa- 
 hili, 523 ; Arab, 523 
 products, 58 — 64 ; of the Wa- 
 
 Giryama, in, 112 
 seasons, 57, 58 
 Ahmed Bedwin, a hunter, 278, 296, 
 
 300 
 Akidi, native officer, 374 
 Al-Hatliera, Arab name for Pemba 
 
 Island, 588 
 Ali-bin-Issa, his sugar-mill, 519 
 All-bin-Tumah, the head-man, 35, 41, 
 42, 43, 52, 57, 65, 67, 69, 71, 72, 
 86, bad reports of, 156, 157, im- 
 prisoned, 176 
 Ali-bin-Salim, Liwali of Mombrui, 14, 
 17, his friendliness, 33, 36, 43, 54, 
 71, 72, 85, 86, 156, his project for a 
 school, 300, interest in proposed 
 Indian shops, 264, 304 
 Alimentary plants in Zanzibar, 548, 
 569 
 
 Allspice, see Pimento 
 
 Aloes (Furcra:a and Sansevieria), dis- 
 tribution of, 4 ; used in rope-making, 
 93; 103, 119, 121, unused by Wato- 
 ro, 123, 127, 132, 186, 187, 188; as 
 fibre-producing plants, 230 — 236, 
 317, native names for, 321, a 
 species described, 325, 326, 327, 
 330j 398, 399, 423^ English firm 
 about to work the fibre, 519, 545, 
 in Zanzibar, 548, in Pemba, 599, 
 report on values of, 624 
 
 Amadi-bin-Sultan Fuma Bakari Na- 
 batian, descendant of former Sultan 
 of Patta, 387, 388 
 
 Amadi Koropana, a bad character, 
 
 493 
 Amasha valley and spring, 28S 
 Amboyna, clove culture in, 557, 562, 
 
 732—736 
 American aloes, in Zanzibar, 548 
 
 cotton for experimental culture, 
 
 41 
 
 drill used for tents, 457 
 rubber {see Ceara am/ Para 
 rubber, a/td Appendix D), soil 
 suited for, 484 ; trees in South 
 India, 701 
 system of cotton cultivation, 360, 
 361, 362, 363, 418 
 Amudu, head-man of Burkau, 465 
 Anglo-German treaty of 18S8, advan- 
 tages of, 508 
 Angola, 230 
 
 Animi {^Zanzibar copal), 153 
 Ankoli, cattle plague in, 348 
 Anoko tribe, marriage customs of, 
 
 616 
 Anstruther, Keith, Superintendent ot 
 :Melindi, 76, 87, his road, 90, 116, 
 117, toll desired, Il8, 125, 136, 
 169, 179 
 Antelopes {A. btibalis), 78, 81, 84, 
 191, 298, 321, proof against tsetse- 
 %. 356 
 
 ■41
 
 742 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Antelopes (Dyke's), 303 
 
 Anthrax (sec also Cattle disease), 348, 
 
 349 
 Anti-slavery decree of 1890, its effect 
 on agriculture, 22, 207, 342, 539, 
 
 543. 549 
 Ants, a terror to cobras, 267 
 
 red, called 'siafu' 176, 177, 480, 
 
 484 
 white, 81, and mangrove wood, 
 221 ; 353, attack roots of clove 
 trees, 558 
 Apes, legend of their origin, 107 
 Aphis, 638 
 
 Appendices : A. Further information 
 respecting the \Va-Girj'ama, 
 
 615 
 
 B. Reports and Valuations on 
 East African Products, 624 
 
 C. Meteorology of British East 
 Africa, 656 
 
 D. Notes on American rubber- 
 producing trees, 678 
 
 E. Extracts relating to Fibre 
 plants, 707 
 
 F. Sir John's Kirk's Garden at 
 Zanzibar, 726 
 
 G. The Clove Tree, 731 
 Arab, baths, 85 
 
 cultivation, 404, 567 
 cultivators, their difficulties, 22, 
 207, 238, 278 interest in the 
 first plough, 309, 506, 594 
 dread of cattle plague, 23 
 hospitality, 88 
 hostile influence on the Watoro, 
 
 272 
 ladies in trouble, 175 
 manners and customs, 278. death 
 
 custom, 525 
 of Muscat, runs amok, 175 
 settlers on east coast of Africa 
 
 {see Patta), 443 
 shikaries {see Ahmed Bedwin) 
 slave caravan, effort to intercept, 
 
 157—174 
 and Swahili New Year, 14 
 weapons, 382 
 Arabia, 263, colonists from, 3S2 
 Arabs, or Swahilis, 1 1 ; dreaded, 84, 
 and their runaway slaves, 121, 
 123, 158, 169, 195 ; their houses, 
 225 ; 267, relations with their slaves, 
 278, 281 ; on the march, 296, 299 ; 
 good points in character of, 300 
 Arabs of Zanzibar and Pemba, a 
 mixed race, 509, 510 ; cultivators, 
 519, 525. 526, 534, 539 ; their coco- 
 nut growing, 523 ; death custom, 
 525 ; dwelling, 530 ; clove-growing, 
 
 553» 554 ; financial position of, in 
 Pemba, 611 
 
 Arbagundi lake and village, 165, 166 ; 
 village on fire, 171, 172, 318 
 
 Arbitration of author among Wanika 
 labourers, 237, 238 
 
 Area affected by cattle disease, 347, 341 
 
 Area of the author's exploration, i 
 
 Areca palms [Arecacatechii), distribution 
 of, 332, in Zanzibar, 516, 521, 530, 
 533, 534. 542, ill Pemba, 593. Sec 
 also Betel 
 
 Arnotto plant {Bixa orellaiia, L.), com- 
 mon in Zanzibar, 548, but not 
 worth cultivating, 574 
 
 Aroboko, indiarubber at, 88, 150, 
 151, 153; slave settlement, 154, 156, 
 227 
 
 Arrack, 3 
 
 Arrows {see also Weapons) of the 
 Pokomo, 334, broad-headed, of the 
 AVaboni, 481, poisoned, of the Wa- 
 boni, etc., 336, 337, why marked, 
 338, poisoned, of the Wa-Gir)'ania, 
 not used in inter-tribal fights, 285. 
 used by the Wa-Galla, 336, against 
 the Somalis, 465 
 
 Arrow-root {Tacca pinnalifida, called 
 'uwanga'), 368, 369, 488, 518, 523, 
 
 571 
 
 Arura, 371, wild cotton of, 372 
 
 Ashakababo lake, 323, 324, described 
 326, 327. road to, 328, 329 
 
 Asiatics {see Arabs, Indians, etc.), in 
 British East Africa, 616, 617 
 
 Askaris (soldiers) {see Selim, and pas- 
 sim') 
 
 Assam, shade-tree of {Albizzia stipii- 
 lata), 580 
 
 Attack on Jelori and Melindi threat- 
 ened, 177 ; but proves a false alarm, 
 
 183 
 Australian importation of silk-cotton, 
 
 569 
 salt-bush, 248 
 "she-oak " {see Casuarina) 
 silky oak {Grevillea rohusta), a 
 shade-tree, 563, 580 
 Author's illness, its cause, bad water, 
 306, 346, 383, 389, wettings, 460 ; 
 497. 499, 501. faithful nursing by 
 Dumgu, 502 ; 503 
 Author's mission, its area, i, scope, 
 
 12, and aim, 451 
 Avatula of Jongeni, a rebellious chief, 
 
 465, 492 
 Avocado pear {Persia gratissinia, 
 
 Gaertn.) in Zanzibar, 548 
 Ayesha bin Sofriani, wife of Nasur bin 
 Suliman, and her allowance, 175
 
 INDEX 
 
 74 3 
 
 Ayubu and his caravan, 199, 200, 2©2 
 Azizi, officer of the Behichi askaris, 
 185, 191, 199 
 
 B 
 
 Baazi, or pea {Cajaniis indie us) {see 
 a/so Peas), as a styptic, 518; 523, 
 
 525 
 Baba, ahead-man, 87, useless, 93, 116, 
 
 155 
 Baboon, i<illed by leopard, 196 
 Baboons mistaken for lions, 305 
 Bagamoyo, cultivation of vanilla by 
 
 French missionaries at, 595 
 Bahamas, Sisal hemp in, 576, 577 
 Bajimali, 383, products of, 385 
 Bajoni or Watjku (see also Guniahs), 
 inhabitants of Faza and Patta, 73, 
 381 ; origin, weapons, and character- 
 istics, 382, 383, 389, 393, 470; 
 askaris, 382, 384, 386 ; chief, and 
 distribution, 391, 394, 395, 399, 422, 
 425, 427 ; kill an English officer, 
 440, 461 
 Bale river, 103 
 Bambarra ground-nut ( Voaitdzeia sith- 
 
 terrancd) in Zanzibar, 543, 548 
 Bamboos, 68 
 
 Bananas {iiiiisa spp.), distribution and 
 cultivation of, 18, 40, 51, 57, 59, 65, 
 67, 68, 69, 88, 120, 122, 123, 137, 143, 
 in Giryama, 102, 103 ; 204, uses, 220, 
 238, 248, 2S6, 328, 329, 330, 341, 369. 
 376, 401, 403, 404; in Zanzibar, 
 516, 517, 519, 525, 528, 533, 534, 
 
 535. 536, 540, 542, 544, 545. 548; an 
 important product, 570, 571 ; fibre 
 used in clove culture, 556 ; tree used 
 forshade, 580; in Pemba, 590, 593. 59S 
 
 Eandani village, 407 
 
 Banians [see Indians) 
 
 Bantu language in relation to Giryama 
 and Swahili, 113 
 religion, 114 
 
 tribe, and cattle disease, 348 
 the, of Zanzibar, 510 
 
 Baobab (AdiDisoiiia digila/a), distribu- 
 tion of, and uses, 2, 34, 74, 143, 144, 
 244, 341, 345. 354, 368, 370, 371, 377, 
 380, 394, 403, 405, 433, 456, in 
 legend, 106 
 
 Baratarue lake, 221 
 
 Barbary beans {see also Beans), 255 
 
 Barghash, Seyd, sec Seyd Barghash 
 
 Barley, red, experiments with, 255 
 
 Barley, report on, 653 
 
 Barometric determinations of height 
 above sea-level, 221 
 
 Bazi, see Baazi 
 
 Beads as money, 337 
 
 Beans, 18, kunde beans, 48, 478; prices 
 of, 63, 143 ; 64, 84, 87, 88, 94, 120, 
 122, 123, 136, 143, 144, 147, 149, 
 162, 328, 332, y^:,, 335, 341, 345, 
 
 354, 370, 377, 388, 405, 435, 474, 
 478, in Zanzibar, 548, 589 
 Bechai, a variety of (juinea corn, 477 
 Beehive huts of the Gallas, 336 
 Beer, Giryama method of making', 
 
 109 
 Beeswax, report on, 626 
 Beetles {Heteronycliiis atra/iis), inimical 
 to sugar-cane, 569 
 Kandapauwa, and Kuruminiya, of 
 Ceylon, inimical to coco-nuts, 
 
 565 
 Rhinoceros, 219, 565 
 Belesoni, or Belazoni, or M'Beledzoni, 
 
 Canal, 4, 312, 332, 339, 340, 342, 
 
 366 
 Belozo or Muho village, 329 
 Beluchi soldiers, 183, 185 
 Benin, tsetse fly of, 357 
 Benoni-bin-Seyyid, Sultan, brother of 
 
 present Sultan of Zanzibar, his 
 
 shamba, 536 
 Bere Bere lake, 405 
 Berkeley, E. J., Administrator (now 
 
 H. B. jNI.'s Commissioner in Uganda), 
 
 84, 128, 157, 169, 174, 175, 176, 
 
 201, 281, 282, 286, 295, goes to 
 
 Uganda, 304, presentation to, 305 
 Betel (Piper betel, L.), in Zanzibar, 567 
 Betel nut palms [Areea eafeehii, L. ), 40, 
 
 64, 68, 142, in Zanzibar, 520, 547, 
 
 566. See also xVreca 
 Bikombe, the porter, 132, 133, 134, 
 
 137, 145 
 
 Bilati, 337 
 
 Bird-scarers, 475, 476, 479 
 
 Bird-Thompson {see Thompson, Bird-) 
 
 Birth customs and beliefs, of the Wa- 
 (nilla, 337, of the Wa-Giryama, 103, 
 105, 202, of the Wanika, 141 
 
 Blacksmiths' work of the Wa-Giryama, 
 
 97 
 Black snake {sec Snakes) 
 Blanche, H.M.S., at Weti, 588 
 Blantyre, 233 
 
 Blue gum {Eucalyptus globulus), 54S 
 Boase fibre, 233 
 Boma Upandi, 35, shamba, 35, 48, 70, 
 
 Indian shops established at, 264, a 
 
 stern husband at, 278 
 Bomani, ' mtaa ' trees of, 370 
 Bomas, where used, 34 
 Bombay, Observatory, 512 ; trade with 
 
 Zanzibar, 523, 524, 560, 561, 568 
 Bomzo swamp. 457
 
 IM 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Bonde la Mwera Korokwe valley, 544 
 Bonde la Mzungo valley, 514, 543. 544 
 Books, delight of receiving, 169 
 Borabin 01 Buiabiii lake, 324, 330 
 Boiassus palm (/>'. JlahcUifoniiis), dis- 
 tribution of, 288, 326, 373, 375, 384 ; 
 ill Peniba, 599 
 Bori harbour, 387 
 
 Jiorities, or wood of the mangrove. Si, 
 
 220, immune from white ants, 221 ; 
 
 298, 383. 384, 386, 387, 390; as 
 
 fuel, 392 ; 397, 399 
 
 Borneo, tobacco cultivation in, 652, 653 
 
 ]]oundaries, 4 
 
 Bourbon, clove culture in, 523, intro- 
 duced by the French, 553 
 ]5owstring hemp {Saiiscvieria, sp. ), 
 102, 229 ; notes on its uses and value, 
 233 ; Appendix E upon, 707 
 Bows and Arrows {sec Arrows and 
 
 Weapons) 
 Bracken fern, see Ferns 
 V>K&z.i\-{x\.\\X.{Artocarpusincisa, L. ), 547 
 Brickdust, red {ngeo), as money, 537 
 Bridges, native, 51, 117, 376 ; over 
 
 Mwera river, 535 
 Brinjal {Solaniim mcloiigena), 546 
 Brisbane, salt-bush seed from, 24S 
 Britannia, P. & O. steamer, 503 
 British East Africa, its fibres, 233 
 British East Africa Company, repels 
 
 Fumo Omari, 342 
 British Government, 506, its responsi- 
 bility in the labour difficulty, 549, 
 and duty, 551 
 British Museum, specimens of tsetse-fly 
 
 in, 357 
 
 Bubashi, 465 
 
 Buffaloes, 81, affected by cattle 
 disease, 84, 195, 299, 347, 348 ; on 
 the Sabaki, 127, 187, 248 ; Galla 
 method of killing, 336; proof against 
 tsetse-fly, 356 ; 402, 403, 404, 476, 
 486, 501 
 
 Bullock-hackeries introduced, 347 
 
 Bullocks, cost, food, and qualities of 
 those of the coast, 213 ; in Zanzibar, 
 
 574 
 Bura, a Pokomo village, 330 
 Burabin, sec Golbanti ; lake, 324, 330 
 Buramanza hill, 456, 457, 461, 462, 
 
 465 
 Burkau (see also Port Durnford), 446, 
 village, 448, 449; delays at, 451 ; 
 country near, 452. 454, guide from, 
 useless, 459 ; return to, 460, 461 ; 
 more delays. 462, 471 ; Wa-Galla 
 near, 464, their head-man, 465, 472 ; 
 ruins near, 462, 465 ; cultivation and 
 villages near, 466, 467, 469, 470. 
 
 471, Fumo Oman's influence para- 
 mount, 472 ; forest near, 407 
 
 Burt, Kev.F.,C.M.S.,90, 177,178, 180, 
 183, 242, 274, 282, 285 
 
 Bush districts, general aspect of, 8r, 
 83, 89, 117, 126, 127, 128, 132, 167, 
 passim 
 
 Bwana Siri, a Bajoiii hunter, 398, 399, 
 429, 435> 439> 441, 442. 44'5- useless 
 as a guide, 45S. 459, 460, 461, 462, 
 469, 476, dismissed, 471, 478 
 
 Cacao {Iheohroina, L.) {sec Madre de 
 Cacao), yield and suitability, 229 ; 
 in Zanzibar, at Mbweni, 545, 548 ; 
 576 ; Hart on, 578 ; Morris on, 
 580 ; best quality from Cevlon, 
 
 579, 581 . . 
 Cacti, distribution of, 4, 93, 117, 119, 
 126, 127, 128, 132, 133, 186, 187, 
 
 335 
 
 Calaba {Calophylluin calaha), shelter- 
 tree, 563 
 
 Camel, the, load for, 17 ; used to drive 
 seed mills, 63 ; cost to hire, 67 
 
 Camel-transport, 263, arrangement, 
 cost and food of animals, 264 
 
 Cameron, Commander Lovett, his 
 remarks on wild nutmegs, 229 
 
 Camp in shamba, an offence against 
 Watiku customs, 476 
 
 Campbell, Capt., of H.M.S. Philomel^ 
 
 304 
 Candelabra tree {see Euphorbia), 322, 
 
 484 . . 
 Canoe-building district near Xdera, 
 
 334 
 
 Canoes, or mows, of the Wa-Pokomo, 
 
 323, 329, 340 
 
 Cape of Good Hope, cattle disease at, 
 347 ; distance from Zanzibar, 50S 
 
 Capital endangered by labour diffi- 
 culties, 549, needed for their solution, 
 
 550, 551 
 Capsicums, s:c Chillies and Pepper 
 Caravan work liked by natives, 34 
 Caravan, to be intercepted, 157 
 Caravan, personnel of, 416 
 Cashew nut {Anacardiuin occidcntalc), 
 
 248, 370, 384, 547 
 Cassava, or Manioc (bitter kind, .1/?- 
 ni/tot uHlissiina, sweet kind, Manihot 
 aipi), distribution and cultivation, 
 35, 39, 59, 63, 88, 137, 140. 144, 
 147, habits resembling those of 
 Ceara, 228, 248, 335, 370 ; in Zanzi- 
 bar, 515, 517, 518. 519, 520, 523, 524, 
 525, 528, 533 ; in clove nurseries. 539,
 
 INDEX 
 
 745 
 
 542, 543, 54S, 557, 571 ; an exhaust- 
 ing crop, 572 ; in Pembix, 5S9, 593, 
 594, 597, 603, 604, 605 
 Castilloa rubber {.wc Central American 
 
 rubber tree) 
 Castor-oil plant {Riclnns coininitnis), 
 distribution, 47, little used, 64; 98, 
 117, 127, 136, 137, 144; wild, 196, 
 229, 368, 435 ; experimental culture, 
 248, 272, propagation, 272 ; 287, 
 371., 383, 433; in Zanzibar, 54S ; 
 native names for, 618 
 Castor-oil seed, 272, report on, 626 
 Casuarina trees [Casiiarina Uttorca), 
 distribution and value of, 2, 82, 83 ; 
 identical with Australian she-oak, 
 221 ; 458, theory as to pi'opagation, 
 470 ; a shelter-tree, 563 
 Caterpillar which attacks clove trees, 
 558; which attacks cotton [Aktia 
 argillacea, Hi'ibn.), 638 
 Cattle disease, affecting game {see 
 Buffaloes, Deer, Giraffes, etc.), 
 195,269 
 periodical, 23, its causes, 213, 330, 
 349, radius, and cure, 347, 
 symptoms and effects on native 
 population, 344, 347, 349, one 
 good result, 356 
 Cattle, experimental herd desired, 210; 
 points of importance concerning, 
 210, 211 
 and the Ganda or tsetse-fly, 356, 
 
 358, 419, 432, 434 
 given for wives by the Wa-Galla, 
 
 338 
 required for draught in Zanzibar, 
 
 551 
 scarce, 136, 38 1, 449 
 Cattle-trade of Kionga, 437 
 •Cayenne pepper '(j-^c- Chillies), sources 
 
 of,, 573 
 Ceara rubber tree {Mamhot glazwvn), 
 
 its suitability to East Africa, 226, 
 
 227, and to West Africa, 228, 255 ; 
 
 at Mbweni, 546, 548, 584; Appendix 
 
 D upon, 689, 702 
 Celadon china on mosques and tombs, 
 
 443 
 
 Centipedes, 184 
 
 Central Africa, nutmeg groves in, 
 229 
 
 Central agricultural experimental sta- 
 tion proposed ( see Experimental 
 culture, Jelori, Mbweni, etc.), 273 
 
 Central American rubber tree {Cas- 
 tilloa claslica)^ suitability to East 
 Africa, 149, 226, 227, its yield and 
 suitability to India, 703 
 
 Central Giryama, 100, districts, loi 
 
 Cerbcra inan^^has, a shelter-tree, 563 
 
 Ceylon, agricultural example of, 208, 
 bullock hackeries of, suited to l-^ast 
 Africa, 347, cacao of, 579, cacao 
 seeds from, 581 ; murrain in, 213 ; 
 Ceara rubber obtainable from, 228 ; 
 coco-nut culture, beetle inimical to, 
 565, proverb concerning, 214 ; fibre 
 plants of, ^Vppendix E, 716 ; guinea 
 grass of, 354 ; native gardener desired 
 from, 272 ; pimento in, 582, salt 
 bush indigenous to, 248, silk-cotton 
 of, 569, silky oak of, 563 : meteoro- 
 logical observations at, 579 
 
 Chakamba lake, 359 
 
 Chaki-Chaki, 588, rainfall of. 593; 
 599 ; crop of cloves in 1891, 607 ; coco- 
 nuts of, 608 
 
 Chameleon, in Giryama folklore, and 
 parallel, 107, 108 
 
 Chara, salt trade of, 331, inhabitants 
 of, 332, 344 
 
 Charm to keep out snakes, 196 
 
 Chatturo, 332 
 
 Chemchem, source of Zanzibar water 
 supply, 513 
 
 Chibeku, oil mills at, 63 
 
 Chilani stream, 288 
 
 Child-exposure, 203, 337 
 
 Chillies, or Capsicums (Capsicum 
 annuiini, and Capsicum frutescens), 
 40, 136, 341, in Zanziljar, 539, 
 varieties of, 540, 547, culture de- 
 clining, and why, 573, experiment 
 in 1895, 574 
 
 China, pineapple fibre from, 578 
 
 China grass, see Ramie 
 
 Chinese cassia {Cinnanwinum cassia, 
 BL), in Zanzibar, 548 
 
 Chiromo, fibre experiments at, 234 
 
 Chosini Shamba, Pemba, cultivation 
 at, 593, 491, 606 
 
 Christian natives, 90, 98 
 
 Christmas Day diversions, 195 ; at 
 Mombasa, 305 
 
 Chuaka, road near, 561 
 
 Chueni, palace in Zanzibar, 514, de- 
 scribed, 515, plantation at, 516, 
 2Dossibilities of, region, 517, 524, 
 methods of cultivation, 518,519, 55S ; 
 aspect of country thence to Kokotoni, 
 520 ; suited for betel-nut culture, 
 
 567 
 Church Missionary Stations {see Burt, 
 Edwards, Hooper, Jones, Tucker), 
 Frcretown, 2S5 ; Jelori, 90, 92, 98 ; 
 Kamlikeni, lOO ; Kisulutini, 99 ; 
 r^Iwaeba's Hill, lOO ; Rabai, water 
 supply at, 287 ; imdesirable settlers 
 near, 271
 
 746 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Chuyu, meteorological observations at, 
 rain, 8, temperature, loi, wind 9, 
 
 659 
 
 Cinchona plantations in Madras, deduc- 
 tions from, 227 
 
 Cinnamon tree (Ctnna/iiotnum zey- 
 lanicHin), cuttings planted at Maga- 
 rini, 25, 255 ; giown at Mbweni, 
 548 ; suited to soil of Zanzibar, 581 ; 
 large trees in Pemba, 600, 602, 605 
 
 Circumcision cycles, Giryama, loS 
 
 Citron in Zanzibar, 568 
 
 Citnis {see Orange, Sweet Lime, etc.), 
 cultivation of, 64, 154, varieties of, 
 in Zanzibar, 547. grow well when 
 cared for, 567, 568 
 
 Civilizing agency of native Christians, 
 
 Clay soil best for clove-growing, 525, 
 
 526, 528, 534, 553 
 Cleared land, ownership of, 34 
 Climatology of East Africa, Appendix 
 C, 4th Report of British Association 
 for the Advancement of Science, 
 656 ; 5th Report, 664 ; 6th Report, 
 670 
 Cloth used as money, 337 
 Clove trade of the middle ages, 732 
 Clove trees {Caryophyllus aromaticus, 
 L. , or Eugenia caryophyllata), in Zan- 
 zibar, 507, 515, 516, 517, how culti- 
 vated, 518, 519, 520, at Kokotoni, 
 521, 524, 528; coco-nuts planted 
 amongst, and why, 523, 524, 528, 
 530, 557; soil suited for, 525, 526, 
 328, 534, 553; Dunga and district, 
 525. 538, 539, 542, 543 ; care re- 
 quired in culture, 526 ; 529, 530, 
 533, 534, 535 ; average life of tree, 
 535, effects of presence of ilook, 536 ; 
 none grown at J"mbvi, 543 ; in 
 Mwera district, 544 ; a chief com- 
 mercial product, 547, lack of care in 
 culture, 548 ; the chief object of 
 culture in Zanzibar, 549, 552, 553 ; 
 original habitat, 553 ; introduction 
 into Zanzibar, 553, 554 ; effects of 
 the hurricane of 1872, 555, 561 ; 
 Swahili name, 554 ; methods of cul- 
 tivating, nurseries, size of beds and 
 watering, 554. hardening, lining, 
 holing, and planting, 555, 556, 
 prices of seeds and plants, 555, 
 weeding and after-cultivation, 556, 
 557, diseases, enemies, etc., 557, 558, 
 lime of bearing and yield, 55S, 560, 
 colour of buds, and gathering, 558, 
 curing, and price of hired labour ; 
 clove stems, disposal of the crop, 
 value, and duty, 559 ; comparison be- 
 
 tween cloves of Zanzibar and ihose of 
 Pemba, 559, 560, 607, 608 ; mode 
 of shipment, 560 ; clove stalks, ex- 
 port table, 560, revenue from, in 
 Zanzibar and Pemba, 561 ; price in 
 London, 1896, 562; various methods 
 of drying, 562 ; suggestions for im- 
 proved culture, 563. in combination 
 with cacao, 580 ; culture in Pemba 
 Island. 586, 588, 589, 590, 591, yield, 
 592, 593, 594, Arabs consider Pemba 
 better suited for their growth than 
 Zanzibar, 595 ; 598, 599, 600, 601, 
 602, 603, 604, 605, chief points con- 
 nected with culture, 606, Pemta 
 cloves at present inferior to those of 
 Zanzibar, 607, 608 
 Clove tree, Appendix G upon, 731, 
 habitat, varieties, and distribution, 
 732, culture in various places, 733- 
 
 735 
 
 Coast-lands of British East Africa, I, 
 denuded of wood, 81, the rubber area, 
 150, and varieties of rubber in, 152 ; 
 capabilities and value of, 204 ; sug- 
 gestions for developing, 204-221 ; 
 products of, to be cultivated, 272 
 
 Cobra, see Snakes 
 
 Cochin copra {see Copra), 260 
 
 " Cock-fighting," 82 
 
 Coco de Mer (Lodoiiea), 545 
 
 Cocoa cultivation in Trinidad {see 
 Cacao), 551 
 
 Coco-nut ixets i Coios miei/era) {see Coir, 
 Copra, Toddy, elc.), distribution and 
 cultivation, 15, 16, 17. yield, 34, 40, 
 4S, 51, 57, 58, 59, 238; price per 
 thousand nuts, 59 ; prices, local, 143, 
 148 ; 65, 68, 69, 87, 102, 138, invalid 
 trees, 142, 143, 147, 432, 435 ; care 
 required by, 142, 145-148, 208 ; at 
 Aroboko, 154; 155, 204, 210, notes 
 and proposals concerning, 213, 214; 
 brackish milk, 219, cured by drain- 
 age, 220 ; will not thrive in inland 
 salt soil, 247, but like to grow in 
 creeks, 407, 422, 425, 426, 523 ; 24S, 
 249, experimental culture proposed, 
 272 ; 274, 281, 285, 2S6, 287, 288, 
 nursery at Magarini, 306 ; 341, 344, 
 345, 352, 354, 355, 359, 366, 367, 
 369, 375- 376. 377, 379, 380; m 
 Patia, 382, 384, 385, largely grown 
 near Siyu, 386, 3S7, 388, 389, 391, 
 392, none at Mgini, 403, few at 
 ^lasagoni, 405, at Mkauoni, 418, 
 importance of cultivating, 419; bush 
 soil suited for, 426 : 436. 438, cut 
 down as punishment at Kiongawana 
 Island, 440 ; water-borne nuts, 470 ;
 
 INDEX 
 
 747 
 
 at Kionga, 472 ; in Zanzibar, versus 
 ploughs, 506; 515, 516, 517, near 
 Chueni, 51S, 520, at Kokotoni, 521, 
 why planted amongst cloves, 523, 
 524, bad results to themselves, 528, 
 530> 557 ■ same custom in Pemba, 
 591, 592, 603 ; near Dunga, 525, 
 526, 557. in Kokotoni district, 526- 
 530. 533 ; n--^^'" .^Iflo, 534, 535, 536, 
 540-544 ; a chief commercial pro- 
 duct of Zanzibar, 547, 552, chief 
 facts regarding, 564 ; on Pemba 
 Island, 593, 594, 595, 597, 598, 604, 
 609 ; report on cultivation at ^laga- 
 rini, 633 
 Coco-nut gathering, 71, 260 
 
 husks wasted, 17, 59, 214, 598 
 matting, 539 
 
 oil, 59 ; note on, 260, 519 
 uses made of, for beer, 102, for 
 food, 316. for roofing, 142, 353, 
 380, 3S2, 441 
 Coco-nut, the Pemba or dwarf species, 
 
 88, 149, 565, 591 
 Coffee {Cofca Arabica and Liberie a, 
 called also " Cassenga '), wild, 334, 
 l)eans, chewed by Bajoni, 382, Li- 
 berian species diseased at Mbweni, 
 545 ; coffee growing in Nyasaland 
 successful, 551, in Pemba, 595, in 
 Uganda, 654, in Zanzibar, 548, 568 ; 
 extension of growing, to Taita, 736 ; 
 reports on coffee from British East 
 Africa, 627, 628, on coffee from 
 Uganda, 654 
 Coir rope, 58, 214, 380, metliod of 
 manufacture, 381, prices, 381, 383, 
 advice to natives on, 386, 388, 400 ; 
 in Zanzibar, 518, 519, 524; used for 
 shoes, 540 ; 565 ; report on the 
 industry in British East Africa, 629, 
 expert's suggestions on manufacture, 
 630, the industry on the west coast 
 of Southern India, 630 
 Colombo, murrain in, 313, rainfall at, 
 
 579 
 
 Commercial products of Zanzibar and 
 Pemba, 547, 575, Appendix B, 624 
 
 Communication {see Bullock hackeries, 
 Draught-animals, ami Roads), facili- 
 ties for, necessary, 89, present means 
 of> 55 1; 566 
 
 Comoro Islands, and Islanders, 214, in 
 Zanzibar, 510, coir manufacturers, 
 518; 524, coir of, 565 
 
 Congo pea {Cajaiiiis imiictis) {see Baazi 
 and Peas), 64, 143, 517, use of its 
 leaves, 518; 548, 589, 598 
 
 Congo State, and cattle disease, 34S, 
 tsetse -fly in, 357 
 
 Consul-Cieneral at Zanzibar {see Portal, 
 
 Sir Gerald) 
 Coolies from Kurachi, 85, 89 ; re- 
 quired in British East Africa, 208, 
 209 
 Copal {see Gum Copal) 
 Copra, 59, 214, its value and uses, 
 260, transit and packing of, 263 ; 
 from Kabai, 288; 381 ; advice con- 
 cerning, 386 ; 388 ; of Pemba Island, 
 587 ; preparation of, 608, 609 ; report 
 on that from Magarini, 632 ; of Zanzi- 
 bar, 518, 564, 632 
 Coral, of the coast-line, 82 ; islets, 441, 
 442, 443, 445, 448, 507 ; rocks and 
 uses, 143, 149, 281, 358, 368, 369, 
 380, 384, 386, 387, 3S8, 392, 433, 
 441, 518, 526, 527, 529, 533, near 
 and at Dunga, 537, 538, 539, 540, 
 the Limani rock, 541 ; 542, 543 ; at 
 mouth of Mwera river, 544, in the 
 West Indies and Zanzibar, 577, in 
 Pemba, 588, scarce, 602 
 Cotton {Gossypium spp.), and cotton- 
 growing 
 at Magarini, 24, 40, 57, 67, 71, 237, 
 Sea Island and New Orleans seed 
 planted, etc., 256, value of, 259 ; 
 264, experimental culture pro- 
 posed, 272 ; 306, manufactured, 
 309 ; report on, 637 
 " Herr Tost's plantation, 360, 
 methods pursued, 361-363, 
 results, 364 ; Herr Tiede's plan- 
 tations, crop, and quality, 364, 
 
 365 
 near Itembe, 392, at Mattaroni, 
 393, price, 394, method pur- 
 sued, 395, 396, value, 397 ; 399. 
 crops at M'Kauoni, 418 
 Native and wild col ton, distribution 
 and cultivation, 147, 210, 371, 
 372, at M'Tapa, 421, near Shwe, 
 431, 432, at Rubu, 435, at 
 Kionga, 441, not grown at 
 Burkau, soil suitable, 466 
 in Zanzibar, 548, not a suitable 
 
 crop, 569 
 reports on, 634, 635, 637, table 
 
 of valuation, 636-640 
 a suitable crop, 15, 41, 48, 98, 
 166, 210, 238, 466 
 Cotton-seed, for experimental culture, 
 13, 256 ; used as fodder, 209 ; syn- 
 dicate desirable for distributing, 419 ; 
 report on, 641 
 Cow- dung as cure for tsetse- fly bite, 
 
 357 
 Cowrie shells at Kionga, 439, 441 
 Creation myth in Giryamn, 103
 
 748 
 
 INDEX 
 
 <.'rocodiles, 17, 86, audacity of, 91, 98, 
 99, 344: 93, 120, 129, 169, 170, 171, 
 172, 173, impede transit, 260, 304, 
 pleasure in shooting, 273. I'okomo 
 hunters of, 324, 334 ; in the Ozi 
 river, 344. none in Bere-Bere lake, 
 405, in Tana river, 426, none in 
 the Dodori river, 490, 493 
 Crops, rotation of, at Melindi, 15 
 Croton plants in Zanzibar, 507, 546 
 Croup personified, 108 
 Cucurbit ( Telfairia occideiitalis, or 
 'M'bone'), uses of, 518, in Zanzibar, 
 548 . 
 Cudrania, a dye wood, 728 
 Cultivation {sec Agricultural Customs 
 and Routes marched), on Suli- 
 man's shamVjas, 40, 63, between 
 jMagarini and Melindi, 44-48, be- 
 tween Gongoniand Mombrui,84, 
 in tlie Giryama country, 87 et seq. 
 on Pemba Island, 589-605, chief 
 points connected with, summar- 
 ized, 606-611 
 on Zanzibar Island, 518, 519, 520. 
 Mr. Fraser's experiments at Ko- 
 kotoni, 521 : condition near Ko- 
 koloni, 527-530, near Mdo, 
 534-537- at Dunga, 538, 539, 
 in the Wahadinu districts, 540, 
 541, at Jumbvi and Jonga, 542, 
 « at Mwera, 543, at Kikokani, 
 544, at Mbweui, 545, 546, 
 summary of author's observations 
 on cultivation in Zanzibar, 547- 
 560, 563 ; coco-nuts. 564, 565, 
 l)etel, 566, 567, mango and 
 jack, 567, bananas, 570, cas- 
 sava, arrowroot and grain?, 571 
 Cultivation of cocoa, notes on, 587, 
 
 581 
 Cultivation and slavery, 22, 207, 297, 
 
 342, 485, 609, 610 
 Currency of East Africa [se: Money), 523 
 Custard ajiples, 40, 70, in Zanzibar, 
 
 547 
 Custom houses of B. E. A. Co., 146, 251, 
 
 281 
 Customs, see Duty and Revenue 
 Cycad, a kind called iMnkiii/ni'n, 89, 
 
 other kinds, 103, 282, 2S8 
 
 D 
 
 Dac.au river, no trace to be found of it, 
 
 317 
 Dagoreti, Lugard's stockade at, 121 
 Dances of the Wa-Giryama, no, 180; 
 
 of the \Vatiku, 427 ; of the Watoro, 
 
 267 ; a devil dance, 285 
 
 Dari (Metamah or millet), valuation of, 
 
 641 
 Date palms, 24, fruit used as camel 
 
 food, 264; 345, 366; in Zanzibar, 
 
 507, 547 
 
 Death and funeral customs, and beliefs, 
 Arab, 525 ; Swahili, 243, 244 ; of 
 the Wa-Galla, 337 ; of the Wa- 
 Giiyama, 104, 105, 107, 113 ; of the 
 Wa-Pokomo, 333; of the Watoro, 243 
 
 Death, Origin of, Giiyama legend, 107 
 
 Debwane cloth, 491 
 
 Deer destroyed by cattle plague, 347 
 
 Demonology of the Wa-Girvama, 104, 
 108 
 
 Denhardt, Herr C, his cotton and coco- 
 nut plantations at Wange, 401, 417, 
 418 
 
 Dewfall and crops, loi 
 
 Dhurra [sec Dari, Millet, etc.), 255 
 
 " Dia Kuu," or "big path,"' i.e. road, 
 478 
 
 '• Dick s Head," or Ras Kiambone, 
 headland, 442 
 
 Digo or Wa-Digo tribe, and settlements, 
 102, 103, 207 
 
 Dindigul, tobacco labourers of. 209 
 
 Dinner in the bush. 129 
 
 Discomforts of African travel and ill- 
 ness, 187, 247, 253, 305 
 
 Diseases met and dealt with, 42, 43, 
 53, 54. 57, 123, 199, 238, 243, 382, 
 
 389 
 Distomiim worm in sheep, cured by 
 
 salt-bush feed, 248 
 Divination in Giryama, ic6 
 Dodori creek, 421, 422, 496, and village, 
 
 423, 424, 425, river, 427, 490, 493, 
 
 494- 497. 
 Dogs, Guniah. 74 
 
 wild, their ferocity. 412. 453, 
 attack porters, 49S, 499 
 Dollar, its equivalent in rupees. 17 ; its 
 fixed value on east coa^t of Africa, 
 
 523 . 
 Domestic animals in Zanzibar {see also 
 Bullocks, Camels, Donkeys, Goats), 
 
 574, 575 
 Dominica, clove culture in, 734 
 Dongi Hill and district, 520. 521 
 Donkeys, cost of, 17, 264, for the 
 
 plough, 23, 209, for draught, 41, 
 
 144, comparatively immune from 
 
 tsetse-fly poison. 358. 432 ; 376, 
 
 419, used in Zanzibar, 575 
 Drainage, 57, 220, not practised in 
 
 Pemba, 604, 606 
 Draught animals (jtv Bullocks, Camels, 
 
 Donkeys), required, 23. 41. 209, 213, 
 
 in Zanzibar, 531
 
 INDEX 
 
 749 
 
 Drums, sacred, io6. no; as dance 
 music, 275, 427 
 
 Dum palm [Hj'p/uciie thchaica), 3, 
 appearance and uses, 47, 263, near 
 Sabaki. 187 ; 322, near the Tana, 
 325, 326, 340 
 
 Dumgu, a faithful head-man, 296, 310, 
 416, 451, his information on the 
 Burkau district, 463, 479 ; kills a 
 snake, 468 ; 494, 501, his imselfish 
 loyalty, 502 
 
 Dundas, Commander L. G., R.N., his 
 journey up the Tana and Juba rivers, 
 
 4> 5> 331, 339 
 Ditnga, 514. hill, 537, described, 538, 
 
 539; aspect of surroundings, 540, 541, 
 
 542 
 Dungi, 524, clove plantations at, 530 
 Durian {Diirio 'Jbethiiuts, D.C.), in 
 
 Zanzibar. 548 
 Dutch clove cultivation and present 
 
 practices, 523 
 Duty on cloves at Zanzibar, 559 
 Dwarf palms, see Fan palm, Pemba 
 
 palm 
 Dwarf race of the interior, 615 
 Dwellings, native, Waboni, 335, Wa- 
 
 Galla, 336, Wanika (ill), 452, Wasa- 
 
 nia, 155 
 Dye-yielding plants [sec Arnotto, 
 
 Henna, Indigo, Logwood, Orchella, 
 
 ««(2' Turmeric), of Zanzibar, 548 
 Dyke's Antelope, called Dendara, 303 
 Dysentery, 43, 54, 123, 199 
 
 East Africa, needs of, 550, 551, 562 
 
 Ebony trees, distribution of, 353, 358, 
 397: 493' 498, report on, 641 
 
 Ediens, Indian cattle-keeping caste, 
 208, 209 
 
 Edison, Prof., new method devised by, 
 for decorticating pineapple fibre, 578 
 
 Edwards, Dr., of the C.M.S., 305, 
 306 
 
 Egypt, 295, cattle plague on its borders, 
 348 
 
 Egyptian cotton, suitable for East 
 African cultivation, 166, 272, 274 ; 
 seed tried at M'Kauoni, 418 
 
 Elephants, near Gongcni, 84, tracks near 
 stockades, 191, 195 ; 296, near Lake 
 Krawa, 298, 299, 303, 398, a hunter's 
 life, 398 ; near M'Gini, 404, near 
 Dodori, 423, 425, 426, a watering 
 place for hunters, 442, 444 ; tracks 
 near Kinawi, 453, 454, camping 
 place of hunters, 455, landmark of, 
 456, 457, 460, Wa-Galla method of 
 
 killing, 465, 466, tusks claimed by 
 Wa-Galla, 466 ; 468, by Watiku, 
 482, 487, by l-'umo Oniari, 476, 
 491, 492 
 Eniin Pasha, 295, on the causes of 
 
 cattle disease, 349 
 Endurance of porters, unequalled, 502 
 Engatana, 352 
 
 Euphorbia, distribution and uses, 4, 78, 
 , 102, 314, 322, 484, 4S5 
 Europeans trusted byAVatoro, 242 
 Expedition, of /i§^l, under Capt. 
 Dundas, R.N.,jip the Tana; notes 
 by Mr. Bird-Thompson, 331 
 Expeditions, see Routes marched 
 Experimental culture {see Kirlc, Sir 
 John, Mbweni, ete.'), planned, 41, 
 48, 68, 69, 90, 97, 98, 122, 149, 166, 
 209, 210, 221, 226-236, 237, 238, its 
 success, 256, 257, 259, details of 
 proposed nursery at Jelori, 272 ; 
 vanilla and coffee culture of French 
 missionaries, 595) 730 
 Exports of coffee from British depend- 
 encies, 628 
 Exports : cloves, 554, 560 ; coco-nuts, 
 523, coir, etc., 524, copal, 154, 
 copra, etc., 260, 518, 523, 532; 
 cotton, 364, 365, 394; india- 
 rubber, 152, 228; mangrove, 
 timber, 81 ; mat-bags, 380 ; 
 millet, 60 ; orchella weed, 'i>}^ ; 
 toddy of Siyu, 386 
 possible, bye-products of the coco- 
 nut, 214, 260, fibres, 230, pro- 
 duce, 298 
 of Zanzibar and Pemba, betel, 
 567 ; chillies, 573, 574 ; cloves, 
 560, 561, 562 ; coco-nuts, 564, 
 coir, 565, copra, 565 ; ground 
 nuts, 572 ; sisal hemp, 577 ; 
 proposed, of oranges, 568 
 
 False alarm at Jelori, 177-183 
 
 Fan ^z\m.% {Hyphceue sp.), distribution 
 and uses, 78, 142, 250, 263, 287, 
 310. 3i3> 317. 353> 354, 355> 35^, 
 360, 368, 370, 373, 375, 380, 381, 
 384, 3S5, 387, 388, 391, 392, 399, 
 401, 402, 404, 405, 407, 408, 422, 
 426, 431, 500 
 
 Fan, Mr, Weaver's dog, its death, 199 
 
 Fatvii, the, a vessel, 5 
 
 Faza or Paza, in Patta Island, 380, 
 origin of its inhabitants, 381, 3S2 ; 
 383, 388, meteorological observations 
 at, 389 ; 427, 429, 492 
 
 Fazi Island, 390, 391, 401
 
 75° 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Feeding of caltle, ils great importance, 
 20I, 213 
 
 Fern, Bracken and oilier, 537, 541, 
 597; 598) 600, 604 
 
 Ferry over Ozi river, 408, over Tana, 
 408, needed for Sabaki, 222, sug- 
 gested improvements in existing, 225 
 
 Fertility of Zanzibar Island, 509, 518, 
 528, 533. 543. 549. 551. 552 
 
 Fibre-yielding plants [set' Banana, 
 Bowstring Hemp, Coco-nut, 
 Furcroya, Jute, Ramie, Pine- 
 apple, Sansevieria, and Fan 
 Palm), distribution of, 4, 229- 
 236, where best grown, 313, 
 uses. 353 ; report on, 624 
 of Zanzibar. 548, 571, suited to 
 that place, 576, 577, 578, 
 Appendix B. , 625 
 
 Fibre-yielding plants discussed, Ap- 
 pendix E. , 707 
 
 Fig-trees (Ficiis spp. ), 40, in Zanzibar, 
 507, the common fig, 547 
 
 Fiji, imports of silk-cotton, 569, 
 temperature of, 513 
 
 Financial positon of Arab cultivation in 
 Pemba, 61 1 
 
 Fire-boundary round shamba, 264 
 
 Fire- v. sun-drying of copia, 608. 609 
 
 Fire, method of extinguishing, 1 72 
 
 Fires, annual, to clear the ground, 398, 
 487. 488 
 
 Firewood, whence obtained, 81, 84,392 
 
 Fish, Guniah methods of killing, 78 ; 
 killed by dynamite cartridges, 183 ; 
 plentiful in Patta, 383 
 
 '' Fisi,' or totem of the Wa-Giryama, 107 
 
 Fleas, 372 
 
 Flies, 195 
 
 Floats of limber possible on the Sabaki 
 river, 225 
 
 Foaker, Mr., his journey, 194, and 
 rhinoceros adventure, 195 
 
 Folklore {see Birth customs, Death and 
 Funeral customs, Marriage customs, 
 Witchcraft, etc.), of the Wa-Galla, 
 337; 338 ; of the Wa-Giryama, 1 10- 
 113, 202; of the Watiku, 476; of 
 the Watoro, 243, 244; of the Zulus, 
 
 ' 107 
 
 Food staples, 59, 63, 122 
 
 Foreign trees and plants in Zanzibar, 
 548 
 
 Forest area, 150, 466 
 
 Forests of the Sabaki, their value, 120, 
 126, 204, 225 ; near N'Zovoni river, 
 288, near Roka, 291 ; 325, of 
 Utwani, 350, 352, 353, 354, 355 ; 
 tsetse-fly in, 356 ; 358, near Dodori, 
 427 
 
 Formosa Bay, 4 
 
 Fort Smith, meteorological observations 
 
 at, 661, 666 
 Fourcroya, see Furcraea, fibre plant, 234 
 Fowls, price for, in Wakamba, 162 
 France, sec Marseilles 
 Fraser, Mr. , his cultivation at Kokotoni, 
 
 521, 522, 524, 569 
 Frasila, weight, equivalent in lbs., 263, 
 
 264, at Bombay, 524, in Zanzibar, 535 
 Free labour {see Hired and Imported, 
 
 also Labour), scanty in Zanzibar, 
 
 549 
 
 Free Methodist Missionary Society's 
 head-quarters at Golbanli, 323, ^"^i 
 
 Freemantie, ^'ice-Admiral Sir E., at 
 Port Reitz, 7 
 
 Freemasonry of the Wa-Giryama, 107 
 
 P^rench introduction of clove culture to 
 Bourbon, 553, 557 ; metliod of clove 
 culture, 523, 557 
 
 French missionaries and coftee culiure, 
 730, and vanilla culture, 595 
 
 Frere Town C.M.S. station, 285. 286, 
 287 
 
 Frohawk, Capt., of the 15. I. S. X. ss. 
 Java, 503 
 
 P"ruits of the coast-lands, 64, of Giryama, 
 102, of Zanzibar, 547, region well 
 suited to, 567 
 
 Fuel {see Firewood) 
 
 Fuladoyo, 102, 103, slave settlement 
 at, 130 ; 134, cultivation at, 136, 
 137) 145; 184, 195, river near, 282 
 
 Fumo Omari, rebel Sultan of Witu, 86, 
 177, 33 1; 342, 344; 346; 350, his 
 head-quarters, 351, 352. why out- 
 lawed, 353, 373, 375. 393, results of 
 his actions, 403, 465, felt by expe- 
 dition, 491, 494, 495, 496, 497, final 
 attack on, 501, successful, 502 
 
 Fundisha, shambas, and their water 
 
 supply; 313 
 Fungo Zombo, 351, 355. i;s fine mango 
 
 trees, 371 
 Fuoni district, cultivation in, 544 
 Ftircrtca {see Aloes, Fibre-yielding 
 plants, and Fouicroya) 
 ciibcsisi, 718, 719 
 
 gigantea, or Mauritius hemp, 
 thriving in Zanzibar, 549 
 
 G.A.DFLIES {Tabaniis latipcs, Macq.), 
 
 357; 424 
 Gall-sickness in cattle, 347 
 Galla country, 12, and villages, 165, 
 
 166, 487, 490 
 Galla or Wa-Galla {sec Golbanli),
 
 INDEX 
 
 751 
 
 leaied by the Wanika, 87, and 
 Watoro, 123, t'A., 429; disturb cul- 
 tivators, 89, in Giryama, loi, 103, 
 154, collectors of edible water-lily 
 seeds, 118, 119, on the Sabaki, 127, 
 narrow-headed, 129 ; their weapons, 
 129, 151, 177, 299; slave-trading 
 by, 131; diet, 169; 172, 177, " slaves 
 of the Somalis," 273 ; a traveller's 
 outfit, 299 ; former settlements, and 
 powers of endurance, 318 ; villages 
 of, 322, 337, settlements. 323, 327 ; 
 name for swamp near Golbanti, 324, 
 325, name for n'konge aloe, 327 ; 
 oppression by, 328, 333, 456, 466, 
 oppressed by raiders, 335, 398 ; 
 cattle scarce amongst, 330, destroyed 
 by the disease, 344 ; their servants, 
 the Waboni, 335, ^^6 ; birth, man- 
 hood and death customs, 337, idea 
 of God, 337, marriage customs, 337, 
 338, ornaments, weapons and food, 
 338, love of toddy, 352, precau- 
 tions against tsetse-fly, 356, in- 
 vasion of the coast, 382 ; trade of, 
 435, 466, incited against the author's 
 party, 446, shauri with, 451, gifts 
 to, 452, feared by Burkau folk, 462 ; 
 463, why, 464, 466 ; of the Wiori 
 river, 464 ; origin, wars, etc. , 465 ; 
 487 
 -Galmo, Galla head-man at Wiori, 465 
 
 Gama, Vasco da, his Pillar, 16 
 -Gambia, rainfall of, 227, Ceara rubber 
 of, 228 
 
 Game {se^ Antelopes, Giraffes, Harte- 
 beest, Kudu, Lions, eft.) at Mare- 
 reni, 81, 84 ; 128, 187 ; scarce near 
 stockade, 2, 191, plentiful along 
 Sabaki, 195 ; near Lake Krawa, 
 296, 298, 304, 321 ; in relation 
 to health of cattle, 349, 350 ; near 
 Shaka, 365, near M'Kumbi, 373, 
 near Itembe, 392, near Juba river, 
 398, near M'gini, 404, near Dodo- 
 ri, 423, 424, near Kave, 486, near 
 Mundane Hills, 40S ; 500 
 
 Games at Ras X'Gomani, 82 
 
 Ganda, the Galla name for the tsetse- 
 fly, 356, 419, 432, 434 
 
 Gararen forest, rubber of, 497 
 
 Geological formation of the Sabaki 
 river-bed and area, 120, 18S, 221, 
 227 
 
 •Geological formation of the soil at 
 Shaka, 371 
 
 German East Africa, boundary, 4 
 
 "German cession of Witu to Britain, 
 
 353 
 German cultivators (see Denhardt. Kiin- 
 
 t/el, Tiede, Toeppen,Tost. c/c), 259, 
 , 352, 355. 
 German mission at Ngao, 327, health 
 
 of place, 328, 332 
 German subjects murdered by Fumo 
 
 Omari, 177, avenged, 353 
 Gingelly {Sesame or Siiiisini), 15, in 
 Zanzibar, 572 
 oil, source, 60, and uses, 6^ 
 Gmger {Zing/her officinalis), suited to 
 Zanzibar, 583, West Indian method 
 of cultivating, 583 
 " Ginger-bread palm," 3 
 (Jirafifes destroyed by cattle disease, 
 
 299; 398 
 Giryama country or U-Giryama, 2, 3, 
 87, 125. 133, 148, 165 ; agricultural 
 season^, 92, 111-113, 137; position 
 and divisions, 99, 100-103, water 
 supplies, 100, loi, 103, fertility, 
 lOl, 102, 103, agricultural customs, 
 105, III, 112; soil suited to Castil- 
 loa, 227 ; river in, 282 ; trade route 
 through, 286 ; 287, means suggested 
 for opening up, 288 
 Giryama, the, or Wa-Giryama,90, wages 
 paid to, by mission, 91, employed 
 by mission, 272, cultivation by, 92, 
 93, 94, chief products, 136, 193, 
 229, 236, 288, 291, new products 
 introduced, 259 ; shauri on objects 
 of author's visit, 97 ; characteristics 
 of the race, 97, its importance, 97 ; 
 language, loi, in relation to Swa- 
 hili, 113, religion, 103, divination 
 amongst, 106, idea on man's early 
 state, 106, idea ow Origin of Death, 
 107, demonology of, 105. circum- 
 cision cycles, loS, freemasonry 
 amongst, 108-lir, division of time, 
 III, marriage customs and inherit- 
 ance, 113 ; significance of a clearing 
 on the Sabaki, 127, curiosity at 
 dinner and toilet of author, 134, 
 135 ; scarcity of cattle, 136, density 
 of population, 136, 137; trade 
 staples with M"Tanganika, 138, 144; 
 price for copal, low, 154. in relation 
 to the Wa Kamba, 162 ; 1 71, 172, 
 weapons, 177, 180; authors alliance 
 with, 180; 183; a birth custom, 202; 
 distrust of the Liwalis, 202 ; chief 
 trade outlets, 229, interest in experi- 
 mental culture, 259, 274 ; quarrels 
 and amends, 285, 2S7 ; tribal divi- 
 sions, 616, tribes and races known 
 to, 616, 617, trees ' and plants 
 amongst, 617 
 Gisla, its equivalent in lbs., 60 
 Gnats, 392
 
 75^ 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Goanc>c half-castes in Zanzibar, 510 
 
 Coat killed by python. 267 
 
 Coats, milch, herds of, 74 ; 133, 136, 
 I37> 169, 323, 368, houses for, at 
 Sivatoni, 371, 405, 432, 435; 449, 
 prices of, at Kionga, 472; in Zanzibar, 
 
 575 
 
 Coat-weed, iS 
 
 Cod, Calla idea of, 337 ; Giryama 
 ideas on, 103, his forgetfulness en- 
 sures life, 105 
 
 (iod's "hen and chickens," 103, in 
 connection with death, 104 
 
 Colbanti or Burabin, 310, 318, 322, 
 a Galla settlement on the Tana, 323, 
 situation of, 324, temperature, 325 ; 
 326, 327, 329, 330, 339, 351 
 
 Ciomani Bay, 5 
 
 Come la Hekwa, or Sherwood Point, 
 444, 446, 468, 469 
 
 Como, a Waboni head-man, 482, 486, 
 his brother, 487 ; 489, 491, 493 
 
 Gongoni, 69, expedition to, 73, ap- 
 pearance and inhabitants, also water 
 supply, 74, situation, 77, salt 
 deposits, 78; 81, 147, coco-nut cul- 
 tivation, 214, Guniah mat-makers 
 at, 263; 296, 310, 313, 412 
 
 Gongora, 146 
 
 Cosha. a runaway-slave settlement, 
 407 ■ 
 
 Gossypiitm spp. {sec Cotton), 144, 548 
 arl'preiiiii, 147 
 barhadciise, i\1 
 
 Government among the Wa-Gallas, 337, 
 among the Wa-Pokomo, 334 
 
 Grains of the coast-lands, 59, 60, 6^, 
 64 ; of Zanzibar, 548, 571 
 
 Crass used for thatching, 90 ; " killing 
 the road," 127 
 
 Greenwich, meteorological table of 
 rain, temperature, etc., 10 
 
 Ground nuts {AracJtis hypogea)^ suita- 
 bility of, to country, 213, seed 
 planted, 259; 272, 425, 426, 
 436, 47S, 524 ; 542 ; varieties of, 
 
 543 ; 544 
 {I'oaiuhcia siihterranea), or Bam- 
 barra ground-nut, 543, 548, in 
 India, 572 
 report on, 642 
 Guavas, 70, in Zanzibar, 547 
 Gudaki, Watiku village, 466 
 Guide from Burkau {sec Bvvana Siri), 
 promised, 450, 451, 452, 453, his 
 ignorance, 458, 459, 460, and use- 
 lessness. 460, 462, 478. a new 
 guide. 463, guides from Kave, 489, 
 malingering, 496 
 Guinea corn {Sorghinn viilgarc), 15. 
 
 diseased, 18 ; 34, 40, the Bechai 
 kind, 477 ; 523 
 
 Cuinea-giass, 82, 177, indicates a rich 
 soil, 136, 142, 287, 354,3^8, 435 ; 
 137, 140, 147, 155, as fodder, 
 209, 210; 474 
 of Ceylon, 354 
 
 Gum-Arabic, report on, 641 
 
 Gum-copal, called Aniini in Zanzibar 
 ( Trachylobimn honiemaimianuiit^ 
 H,), trees, 88, 89, trade in, 138; 143. 
 144, described, 153, methods of 
 collection, 154; report on, 642 
 
 Guniahs [see also Bajoni and Watiku), 
 location, 73, cultivation, 74, ani- 
 mals, 74, characteristics, 77, a 
 telephone amongst, 77. boatmen of 
 Ras N'Gomani, Si, 82, orchella 
 gatherers, 83, rubber collectors, 1 51. 
 mat-bag makers, 259, 381 
 
 Gunny-bags, cost of, etc., 263 ; as op- 
 posed to makandas for clove-packing, 
 560 
 
 Gururu Lake, 324 
 
 H 
 
 Hadramaut, Arabs of, in Zanzibar, 
 
 Hamburg, trade with Zanzibar, 561, 
 and possible increase, 632 
 
 Ilameye, 337 
 
 Hannington, Bishop, murder of, 605 
 
 Ilaramele-bin-Saleh introduces clove 
 culture to Zanzibar, 554 
 
 Harbours, i, 4, 5, 386, 387, 507 
 
 Hartebeest {Akephali), 298 
 
 Hatch, General, 304 
 
 Havana tobacco-seed, suited to East 
 Africa, 418 
 
 Hawazaon, her death and alleged be- 
 witchment, 243 
 
 Hemcleia vastatrix, or leaf disease, 
 
 Hemp, see Bowstring hemp. Fibre- 
 producing plants, Pineapple, and 
 Sansevieria, Sisal, etc. 
 
 Henequen, see Sisal hemp, also 
 Appendix E 
 
 Henna plant in Zanzibar, 548 
 
 Henry Wriglit, coasting steamer, 13, 
 14, 86, 146 
 
 Heron, 44 
 
 Plindi, 370, 371, 405 
 
 Hindoo peasant, his industry and thrift, 
 
 23 
 
 Hippopotami, distribution of, 24, 47,51, 
 91, 92, 93, flesh liked by the natives, 
 94, 171. 98, not bad in pie, 99 ; 
 hunters' calls, and lures for, 99 : 117.
 
 INDEX 
 
 753 
 
 170, best hour to shoot, 171 ; 172, 
 173, near Stockade No. 2., 191, 192, 
 near Jeloii, 263, in Lake Krawa, 
 298 ; 304 ; near Kau, 341, on the 
 Ozi river, 344, 359, 408 ; in the 
 Kirinianda river, 345, at M'Peka- 
 toni Lake, 369, 370, 407, at Bere 
 Bcre Lake, 405, near Dodori, 423, 
 490 
 
 Hobley, C. W., his adventure with a 
 lion, 415, 416 
 
 Hoes, 43, 57, 518 ; use of, not destruc- 
 tive oi Hook grass, 523, 529, 552 
 
 Holechiss Lake {called Ziwah Hole- 
 chiss,) 324, 325, 326 
 
 Holiday granted to porters, 300 
 
 HoUand, and the cattle-disease, 347 ; 
 importation of silk-cotton, 569 
 
 Horn we village, 434, 435, 436, 470, 
 471, 472, shambas of, 475, desecra- 
 ted, 476:478, 4S1, 493, 494 
 
 Honey, a pailful, 274 ; 299, 335, 33S, 
 trade in, of Wa-Galla, 466 
 
 Hooper, Rev. D,, and Mrs. Hooper, 
 C. M.S. missionaries at Jelori, 90, 
 91, 96, 162, 173, fugitives, 177, 
 178, 179, their return, 183 ; on na- 
 tive customs, 202; 241, 242, 272, 273, 
 274 
 
 Horse-fly, torture caused by, 199 
 
 Horses and anthrax, at Zanzibar, 349 
 
 Houses left unfinished on death of 
 Arab builder, 525 
 
 Humidity {see Dewfall, Rainfall and 
 Meteorology), 10; in relation to 
 rainfall, 578, 579 
 
 Hurricane of 1872, its effects, in Zan- 
 zibar, 535, 536, 554, 564, far less 
 severe ia Pemba, 590 
 
 Hyderabad soldiers, called Viroboto, 
 360 
 
 HyKnas, 78, 79, totem of the Wa- 
 Gir}'ama, 106 ; 188, 453, 454 
 
 Hyphrene palms {sec Dum palm. Fan 
 palm, Toddy, etc.), distribution of, 
 and uses, 2, 3, 78, 89, 93, 120, 126, 
 187, 188, 244, 298, 313, 317, 322, 
 325, 340, 341, 345, 350, 351, 352, 
 353, 354, 355, 358. 359, 360, 366, 
 367, 368, 369. 370, none at Fungo 
 Zombo, 371 ; 373, 374, 375, in Patta 
 Island, 380, 382, 383, 384; 391, 394, 
 401, 402, 404, 405, 407, 421, 425, 
 426, 435, 485, 498, 499, 500 
 
 Inio, 377 
 Ife fibre, 717 
 
 Hook grass {Imperata Koenigii), 18, 
 68, two varieties of, 517 ; 518, not 
 
 extirpated by hoeing, 523, 529, 552 ; 
 525, 526, 535, 536, injurious to 
 cloves, 557, rare in Pemba, 595, 
 599, 604 
 
 Implements of agriculture {see Hoes, 
 Spades, and Plough) 
 
 Importation of Labourers {see Cultiva- 
 tion, Labour, Slaves, etc.) requisite, 
 and possible sources, 208, 209, 272, 
 549, 550 
 
 Imported labour {see Labour question), 
 23 
 
 Imports : makuti at Faza, 44 ; rice at 
 Takaungu, 143 ; tobacco at Kionga, 
 439 ; pepper into Pemba, 589 
 
 Incendiarism suppressed, 53 
 
 'Inchikchi,' Swahili name for oil palms 
 {q. v.), 520 
 
 India (^i?c Coolies, Hindoo, Importation 
 of Labour, etc.), bullock-hackeries 
 introduced from, 347 ; coco-nuts, 
 profits on, 214, coir industry in, 630, 
 clove culture in, 735, currency em- 
 ployed in East Africa, 523 ; ground- 
 nut culture, profits on, 213, experi- 
 ments with, 259 ; indiarubber in, 
 688 ; inferior advantages to those of 
 East Africa, 209 ; irrigation in, 225 ; 
 jack-wood furniture in, 567, the rains, 
 253; sugar made from toddy, 214; 
 tobacco industry, report on, 652 
 
 India, s.s., to Lamu, 379 
 
 Indian aspect of scenery near M'Tapa, 
 
 421 
 
 cotton for experiments, 41 
 cotton-plantations, wages on, 363 
 indigo-farms, line of work might be 
 adapted to East African needs, 
 419 
 mortgage holders in Zanzibar and 
 
 Pemba, 521, 611 
 police as agriculturists, 41 ; at 
 
 Lamu, 346, 375 
 shops, projects for establishing, 
 at Boma Upandi and Magarini, 
 264, existing, at Shimbwe, 421, 
 at Dunga, 525 
 Indians (Banians, coolies, Parsees, 
 etc.) in British Africa, lO, 59, 
 83, 85, 89, 176, 208, 209, 225, 
 300, 394, 421, 443 
 in Pemba, 589 
 in Zanzibar, 510, 521, 522, 
 Indian-corn {see JNIaize) 
 Indiarubber {see Kirk, Landolphia, 
 Rubber, and Appendix D.) {Landol- 
 phia, spp. o{ Apocynaccir), distribution 
 of, and uses, 88, 89, 140, 147, 149, 
 methods of collection, 150, 151, 159, 
 423; varieties of, 152; those suited 
 
 3 c
 
 754 
 
 INDEX 
 
 to British East Africa, 226 ; desira- 
 bility of planting, 227, and of im- 
 proving native sorts, 228 ; forms of 
 manufactured, 228, 229; on the 
 Tana, 334 ; of the Utwani forest, 
 350 ; of Jongeni, sent to Lamu, 375, 
 420; 421, 427 ; near Mundane Hills, 
 484 ; Waboni collectors, 486 ; always 
 found where there is forest, 487 ; 
 Watiku collectors, 489, 490, 492, 493 ; 
 on the Dodori river, 497 ; at Mbweni, 
 546 ; not likely to prove remunerative 
 in Zanzibar, 584 ; report on that of 
 British East Africa, 642, of Witu, 
 643, extract from Spon's Encyclopae- 
 dia on African rubbers, 644 ; sites, 
 propagation and planting in India, 
 688-706 
 Indigo, in India, 419, in Zanzibar, 
 
 548, 574 
 
 Inland tribes and free labour, 549, 550 
 
 ' Insaa,' the clove-hoe of Zanzibar, 518 
 
 Insects, plagiies to man and beast {see 
 
 Ganda-fly, Horse-fly, rt«(/Tsetse-fly), 
 
 22, 36, 81, 82, 170, 176, 177, 193, 
 
 194, 195= 199, 299, 304, 318, 328, 
 
 355, 356, 357, 358, 372, 383, 397, 
 
 400, 419, 432, 434, 438, 439 
 
 Insects, plagues to plants, 219, 558, 
 
 565, 566, 569, 63S, 639 
 Intestinal worms (Disfomicin) in sheep, 
 cured by salt-bush feed, 248 
 in game, caused by lack of salt, 
 
 .350 
 Irrigation desirable, 8, 90, facilities for, 
 on the Sabaki, 124, 126 
 in India, 225, 
 
 in Zanzibar, 507, 572, and Pemba, 
 601 
 Ishmaelite character of the Watoro, 
 
 242 
 Islamism adopted by the Chara people, 
 
 332 
 Itembe, 389, 390, 391, 392, insalu- 
 brious, 394, 399, 400, 401, 417, 
 tsetse-fly at, 419, 425, 428, 429, 
 434, tobacco of, 439 ; 471, 485 
 Ivor}-, on the Tana, 334, 336 ; in 
 Patta, 421, tribute paid in, 482, 
 487, 4.,o 
 trade, 144, 466 
 
 Jackson, Mr. F. J., 348 
 
 Jack trees, or Jacca {Artocarpiis inte- 
 grifoHa), 40, 64, a tree resembling, 
 368 ; in Kokotoni district, 521 ; 530, 
 533, near Dunga, 540, 542, near 
 Zanzibar, 455, 547, culture and uses, 
 
 567 ; grown in pepper plantations, 
 582 ; in Pemba, 594, 598 
 
 Jalicha village, 317 
 
 Jamaica, similarity between its climate 
 and that of Zanzibar, 551, 576, cacao 
 industry in, 580, pimento in, 582, 
 ginger culture in, 583 
 
 Jambosa {Etigenia jamholana), 547 
 
 Java, silk cotton of, 569 
 
 Java, S.S., of the B. I. S. N. , 501, 503 
 
 Jelori, rainfall at, 8, 306, road to, 86, 
 89, lake, 90, 203, barometrical read- 
 ings at, 221, area, 91, 274, con- 
 nected with the Sabaki, 92, 94, 222 ; 
 mission of the C. M. S. at, 90, 98 ; 
 shauri at, 97, proposed experimental 
 garden, 97-99, 201, 209, 272, 273 ; 
 slave settlement at, 121, 123, 124, 
 rice grown at, 137 ; 158, country 
 near, 166; 173, attack threatened, 
 177, 180, proves false alarm, 183 ; 
 road to Makongeni begun, 184 ; 
 registration of Watoro at, 202, delays, 
 241, reason of, 242; undesirable 
 settlers near, 271, 305, 318 
 
 Jembe, or native hoe, 556 
 
 Jenner, Mr. A. C, and the lion, 415, 
 416 
 
 Jipe village, 405, 501 
 
 Johnston, Sir H. H., Commissioner of 
 Nyasaland, his encouragement to 
 scientific research, 550 
 
 Jones, Rev., Swahili clergyman, his 
 information as to C. M. S. work, 287 
 
 Jonga shamba, 542 
 
 Jongeni, the head-quarters of Fumo 
 Omari, 351, 352, 355, 371, 374, 375, 
 398, 465, 492, 493, 494, Suliman bin 
 AbduUa at, 495, the stronghold de- 
 stroyed, 501, 502 
 
 Jorori river, 44, 47 
 
 Juba river, 2, 4, navigable 5, bar at 
 mouth of, 331 ; 335, 398, 399, 403> 
 407 
 
 Jitba, S.S., 175, 204, 407, 415 
 
 Jubah bin Fukir, a head-man, 87, little 
 use, 116, 122, active hindrance, 125, 
 128, 133, 150, 15s . . 
 
 Jujube tree {Zizyphtis jiijiiba, Lam.), in 
 Zanzibar, 548 
 
 Jute culture proposed, 98, 236, 272 ; 
 report on its cultivation in West 
 Africa, 648 
 
 K 
 
 Kalamo, Wakamba chief, 161 
 Kalota river, 140 
 
 Kamba settlements, 100 ; dialect, loi 
 Kamlikeni, C. M. S. station, loo
 
 INDEX 
 
 755 
 
 Kandapauwa, a beetle of Ceylon, 566 
 
 Kandy, 213 
 
 Kapok (j-6V Silk-cotton), 569 ; in Peniba, 
 590 ; report on, 648 
 
 Kau, 4, 33, inhabitants, and their trade 
 methods, 332, water supply, 339, 
 340, source, 342, result of drinkint;;, 
 346 ; temperature at, 342, location 
 and trade, 342 ; 344, 345, 354, 359, 
 366, 367 
 
 Kauma tribe, loi, 102 
 
 Kavalli, cattle plague at, 348 
 
 Kave, Wa-Boni settlement, 486, 489 
 
 Kavirondo, cattle disease at, 348 
 
 Kavo-Kavo, village, 376 
 
 Kaya river, 100 
 
 Kaya-Giryama, 99, 100 
 
 Kaya-Kohomo, chief village of the Wa- 
 Kohomo, 282 
 
 Kenia, s. s. , 44 
 
 Kerosene, displacing coco-nut oil, 59 > 
 tins used to carry water, 138, prized 
 by natives, 376 
 
 Kew Gardens Museum, specimen of 
 Sansevieria longiflora in, 230 ; list of 
 plants sent to, by Sir John Kirk, 729 
 
 ' Kiapu,' a basket of cleaned cotton, 399 
 
 'Kibaba,' equivalent to one pint, 31 
 
 ' Kibarua,' or hired labourers in Zan- 
 zibar, 559, and Pemba, 607 
 
 Kibwezi, 199, meteorological observa- 
 tions at, 657, 670, 672, 673, 674, 675 
 
 Kidichi, shamba belonging to the Sultan 
 of Zanzibar, 519 
 
 Kidoni, 336 
 
 Kiduncla Uchowi, shamba in Pemba, 
 597, 608 
 
 Kignamanzi, Sultan's plantation at, 
 
 535 
 Kijipa, 412 
 
 'Kikoka,' or cree|)ing grass, 544 
 Kikokani Shamba, 544 
 'Kikumbe,' Swahili name for Sans. 
 
 Kirkii, 321, 399 
 Kikuyu, wheat of, 653 
 Kilifi harbour and bay, I, 7, 87, 145, 
 
 described, its lack of good water, 146 ; 
 
 229, 249, 250, 251, rivers flowing 
 
 into, 282 ; 306 
 Kilifi river, source and navigability, 298, 
 
 hippopotami in, 304 ; 324, 408 
 Kilimandaro, 422, 425 
 Kilimani, coco-nuts, etc., of, 375, 
 
 position, 377 
 Kilindini, 412 
 
 Kihva, steamer of the Sultan of Zanzi- 
 bar, 252, 605, seized for slaving, 610 
 Kimbo, 407 
 Kinabuni, shamba of the Sultan of 
 
 Zanzibar, 507 
 
 Kinakombe, cultivation near, 335, 336, 
 shamba, 335 
 
 Kinawi hills, 453 
 
 Kingston, Jamaica, its temperature 
 similar to tliat of Zanzibar, 551 
 
 Kionga, coast aspect, 2, 394, 399, 434, 
 435' 437) rainfall at, 438, flies at, 
 438, 439, cowries, 439, 441 ; 442, 444, 
 447- 449,. 462, 464, 469, 470, 471, 
 the Wazi's anxieties, 472, water 
 supply of, 474, 475, 481, 492, 499 
 
 Kiongawani Island, 437, pillar to com- 
 memorate slain English officer, 440 
 
 Kiongene, ridge and valley, 525 
 
 Kiongwe, rubber-trade at, 420, 421, 422, 
 
 ,425, 435 
 
 Kipanga river, 521 
 
 Kipini, 4, coco-nut plantations at, 344, 
 359; 345, 358, lions at, 360, report 
 on the value of its cotton, 364 ; posi- 
 tion, etc., 366; 376, 408 
 
 Kipungani, 407 
 
 Kira, 99 
 
 Kirimanda river, 345 
 
 Kirk, Sir John, his researches on india- 
 rubber plants, 152, 226, 229, 230, 
 his experimental garden at Mbweni, 
 272, 545, 548, 552, 567, 56S, 582, 
 Appendix F., 726, 729, (ierman ap- 
 preciation of, 730 ; on the diminution 
 of rainfall at Zanzibar, 511 ; table of 
 mean annual rainfall kept by, 512; 
 quoted on the agricultural resources 
 of Zanzibar, 547, 549, on the needs 
 of Zanzibar, 551, on the lapse of 
 sugar culture, 569 ; report by, on 
 olive culture, 649, on fibres, 707, 
 Sansevieria, 714 ; his services to 
 botany and horticulture, 728, list of 
 plants sent to Kew by, 729, 730 
 
 Kisanga, its good wells, 341, 344 
 
 Kisimbani, clove plantations, Pemba, 
 belonging to the Sultan of Zanzibar, 
 536, 602, 603 
 
 Kisingiti, 382, 383, bad water at, 386, 
 390 
 
 Kisiwani, plantation, Pemba, 503, 604 
 
 Kismayu bay and harbour, 7, tempera- 
 ture, 10, camels of, and prices, 264 ; 
 399, 407, 415, 452, 466; meteoro- 
 logical observations at, 660, 669 
 
 Kisulutini, C. M. S. station, 99J 
 
 Kitoka, shamba, 387 
 
 ' Kitoko,' native cotton cleansing imple- 
 ment, 396 
 
 Kitugani, 376 
 
 Kitumbini, 344 
 
 Kiva N'gwena Wamasha Shaka, or 
 Shaka, Tost's cotton-growing at, 360 
 
 Kizomba, 93
 
 75^> 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Kokotoni, on Zanzibar Island, coco-nut 
 trees of, 344; 514, 516, 520, Mr. 
 Fraser's work at, 521, 522, 569, 
 present condition of his estate, 522, 
 523, 524 ; labour required, past, 522, 
 and present, 524 ; 525, district de- 
 scribed, 526, 527, 52S, squatter labour 
 
 ^U 539 
 Kombara Bala, a rain-water pool, 445 
 Konibe river, 287 
 Kongola lake, 329 
 Kongoni Shamba, belonging to the 
 
 Sultan of Zanzibar, 519 
 Konjora, 248, 249, navigable creek, 
 
 250, 251, 281, 282, 291 
 Korokoro, limit of navigability of the 
 
 Tana, 331 ; 336, cultivation checked 
 
 by fear, etc., 337 
 Koyo, harbour, near Siyu, 386, 38S 
 Krawa, lake, game near, 296, 298, 300, 
 
 303, 321 ; 314, 317, temperature at, 
 
 318; 322, in the wet season, 324; 
 
 326, ' myhi ' at, 395 
 Kudu {.4. strepsicoris), 298 
 Kulesa, Swedish missionary station at, 
 
 recently burnt, 333 
 Kunde beans {sec Beans, etc.). 48, 
 
 478 
 Kuntzel, Herr, at Utwani, 353 
 Kurachi, coolies from, '86 
 Kurwilu, 402, 412 
 Kwaihu, 390, 401 
 Kwaijama, 460 
 Kwale Shamba, Pemba, 604 
 
 Labour question, in East Africa {see 
 Agriculture, Coolies, Cultiva- 
 tion, Free Labour, Slaves, etc.'), a 
 proposed solution, 23, first at- 
 tempts, 23, 24, 97, 122, 139, 190, 
 and progress, 201, future supplies, 
 207, 238, 240, suggestions, 208 ; 
 difficulties at Sliaka, 363, forced 
 labour, 397, 418, skilled, scarce, 
 419 
 in Zanzibar and Pemba, 524, 534, 
 539, 543, its importance and pos- 
 sible solution, 549, 550, hired 
 labour, 559 ; 561, 603, 606, con- 
 sequences of the difficulty, 607, 
 608, 610, excessive cost of slaves, 
 610, 611 
 Lamu Island, i, 2, bay and harbour, 
 4, 7, rainfall at. 8, 438, temperature^ 
 and humidity, 10; 12, coir ro])e of", 
 59, 214, 381, 438, palm mats of, 60; 
 70, 380, Guniahs of, 73, trade in 
 orchella weed, 83, 179, 238, cotton of, 
 
 its value, 259, prices given for, 394, 
 cultivation, 418, trade, 435 ; bags of, 
 263 ; timber trade, 298, 331, 383, 
 author's visit to, 310 ; 346 ; its ship- 
 ping port, 351, 360, 379, slave labour 
 from, and cost, 363, 375, 418; 364, 
 369, 377, 378, soil, 379, 393, 400, 
 401, 404, shanibas, 405, sand-cliffs, 
 406 ; 407, 415, 416, 423, 472, 479, 
 prison at, 493 ; 497, 499, hospital in, 
 501 ; meteorological observations at, 
 660, 669 ; the Liwali of, 428, 429, 
 436 
 Land, Giryama objection to selling, 103 
 Landolphia (Order Apocynaceic), india- 
 rubber vines {see Indiarubberawfl' 
 Rubber), 140, 149, 226, 482 
 florida, 152 
 
 Kh-kii, 152, 226, 229, 321, the 
 best kind, 489, at Mbweni, 546 
 owariensis, 152 
 pelersiaua, 152 
 La Ramu lake, 369 
 Latuka, cattle disease in, 349 
 Lemon tree in Zanzibar, 568 
 Lentils planted, 255 
 Leopards, 196, 285, 365, 408, 425, 462 
 Liberian coffee, see Coffee 
 Limani, a rock of coral outcrop, 540, 541 
 Limbo-limbo fencing, 371 
 Limes, 34, 40, a heavy crop, 70 (cf. 
 
 547) 
 
 Limpopo river, tsetse- fly of, 357 
 
 Linseed planted, 255 
 
 Lions, at Marereni, 81, 84, on the 
 Sabaki, 128, 187, 193, 194, 195, 
 near M'Tondoa, 248, near the 
 shambas, 277, 278, 295 ; 296, near 
 Lake Krawa, 299, 304, baboons mis- 
 taken for, 306 ; near Kipini, 360, 365, 
 near Wange, 403, 404 ; said to fear 
 wild dogs, 412; Hobley's narrow 
 escape from, 415, 416 ; near M'Gini, 
 500 ; in Patta, 392 
 
 Litchi, in Zanzibar, 547 
 
 Liver-fluke, or Distoiinini, preventive 
 food against, 248 
 
 Liverpool opinion of Kipini cotton, 364 
 
 Livvalis, their justice distrusted by the 
 Wa-Giryama, 202 ; their public spirit, 
 209, 300 
 
 Lizard, the, in Giryama folklore, 107 
 
 Lobengula, 347 
 
 Locusts, plague of, 638 
 
 Logi hill,' 187, 188, 191 
 ^Logwood {Hiematoxylon ca/upechi- 
 anii/n), well-suited for culture in 
 Zanzibar, 548, its drawback, 574 
 
 London Missionary Society's station at 
 Ribe, 285
 
 INDEX 
 
 757 
 
 Lugard, Capt. F. D. , his Stockades, 86, 
 121, 123, his scheme for dealing with 
 runaway slaves, 121, his route along 
 the Sabaki, 125, his road and camp 
 in Girjama, 133 ; on the n'konge 
 aloe, 230, on the cattle disease, 347, 
 348 . 
 
 Lung diseases, human, 43, 54, 57, 238, 
 382, 389 
 
 Lung-sickness {see also Anthrax, ami 
 Cattle disease), 347, 348 
 
 M 
 
 Mabogi village, 383 
 
 Mabruke, 242, his wife's death alliibu- 
 ted to witchcraft, 243, 244 
 
 ' Mabungu' or ' Matonga' fiuit, 303, 304 
 
 Macdonald, Capt. J. R. L., R.E., com- 
 manding Railway Survey, his hospi- 
 tality, 199, 200, his porters caught, 
 202 ; he returns to Uganda, 286 
 
 Machako's, on the Uganda road, 194, 
 195, meteorological observations at, 
 661, 664 
 
 ^Tachamah (sc'f Metamah) 
 
 Machinery not required in Sansevieria 
 manufacture, 235 
 
 Machone, Sultan's plantation, 536 
 
 ' Machowi,' a name for a wizard, 243 
 
 Mackinnon, Dr., on the cattle disease, 
 348 
 
 Madagascar, cattle of, 574 
 
 ' Madango,' Wanika name for a kind of 
 Sansevieria, 321 
 
 Madras, export of ground-nuts, 572, 
 Government cinchona plantation, 227, 
 masulah boats, 400 
 
 ' Madre de Cacao,' a shade-tree. 580 
 
 Mafia, papulation of, 509 
 
 Magarini, rainfall at, 8, temperature, 
 10, Suliman bin Abdulla's shambas 
 at, 14, 15, condition of, 21, plants 
 under cultivation, 22, 24, soil, 24, 
 361, appearance of people, 26, 27, 
 water supply, 27, head-quarters on 
 hill, 35, temperature, 36 ; diseases, 
 etc., at, 43 ; 77, salt supply, 78 ; 90, 
 pathfromjelori, 92 ; 13 1, 145, affairs 
 at, 157, 176, 179, 203, progress of 
 the cotton experiment at, 210, and 
 other plantations, 238, Wanika desire 
 to settle near, 238 ; Mr. Weaver as 
 assistant, 252, 255, 264, the cotton 
 at, 257, Giryama interest in experi- 
 mental cultivation at, 259 ; Indian 
 shops desired for, 264 ; route to 
 Jelori, 271, 273, proposed centre for 
 experimental culture, 278, 287 ; a 
 triumphal return, 292 ; lions near, 
 
 295; 306; entire charge given to Mr. 
 Weaver, 309; 411, 412, report of 
 broker on copra, 632, report by Mr. 
 Weaver on coco-nut cultivation at, 
 633, on cotton cultivation at, 637, 
 638, 639 ; meteorological observa- 
 tions at, 660, 670 
 
 Magidon tribe, 177 
 
 Mahawa, a bead-man, 44 
 
 Mahogany {Sivuknia mahogaiii), 545, 
 548 
 
 Maize i^Zca mais), 15, 57, 59, 60, 90, 
 92, 93, 94, 117, 122, 123, 127, 136, 
 137, 138, 143, 144, 149, 162, 166, 
 185, 193, grown in swamps, 322, 
 323, prolific, 327; 328, 329, 330, 
 
 2>i'^> 334' 335) 337' 343' 345' 354' 
 363, 369, 421, 435, 437 ; in Zanzibar, 
 519' 523, 533' 548' 549' 572 ; report 
 on that of British East Africa, 648 
 
 Makandas, or mat bags, material, ca- 
 pacity and cost, 313, 353, 380, 381, 
 for clove-packing, 560 
 
 'Makoche' or • Makome'(^cvDumpalm) 
 
 Makomani village, 376 
 
 Makombagni, 369 
 
 Makonde or jNIakenda village, 412 
 
 Makon<jeni runaway-slave settlement, 
 69, 86, roads to, 118, 165, 169, 192, 
 318; stockade at, 121, temperature 
 at, and near, 125, 192, 194; 129, 
 .131, rice of, 137, distance from 
 Arbagundi, 166, 183, stores, 184, 
 185, 195; delights of, 193, 194; 199, 
 200, height above sea-level, 221 ; 
 the Sabaki at, 222 ; 241, 271 
 
 Makowe, 377, 378, ferry, 405, village, 
 406, 501 
 
 Makumba, 500 
 
 ' Makumbwa,' a variety of cycad, 89 
 
 Makundu ridge, 458 
 
 Makungo Wazin, village, 44 
 
 Makupa ferry, 286 
 
 ' Makuti,' coco-nut thatch, 380 
 
 Malabar, methods of pepper culture, 583 
 
 Malacca, pineapple fibre of, uses and 
 price, 578 
 
 Mambas, or tree cobras, see Snakes 
 
 Mambore village, 436, 437 
 
 Mamole district, 336 
 
 Man, his early state, according to the 
 W^a-Giryama, 106 
 
 Manchester report on Sea Island cotton 
 from Kipini, 364 
 
 Manda Island, 2, and bay, 7, 379 
 
 Mangabeira rubber (Hivtcoriiia s/c'ci- 
 osa), suitability of, to the region, 
 226, 227 
 
 Mangea Hill, 48. or Mount Mangea, 
 99, lack of water, loi, districts
 
 758 
 
 INDEX 
 
 near, 102, 132, 133, district of, 
 
 135 ; 227 
 
 Mangoes and mango-trees {JMangi/era 
 indica, L.), distribution and cultiva- 
 tion of, 18, 48, 51, 64, 87, 88, 102, 
 140, 142, 146, 155, 156, 204, 248, 
 huge crop at Magarini, 306 ; absent 
 beyond Mombrui, 310, 341, 345, 354, 
 355> 358, 359, 368, 369, 370, 371, 
 373. 375. 376, 377. 378, 384, 385 ; 
 in Zanzibar, fine, 515, 519, 520, at 
 Kokotoni, 521 ; 523, 526, 527, 528, 
 near Dunga, 525, 530, 533, 540, 541, 
 542 ; at and near Mdo, 534, 535, 
 536 ; near Zanzibar t')vvn, 544, 545, 
 in clove shambas, 557 ; cultivation 
 of, 567 ; in pepper plantations, 582, 
 583 ; in Pemba Island, 590, 593, 597, 
 598 
 Mangosteen, in Zanzibar, 548 
 Mangrove trees {Khizophora spp.) {see 
 Borities), distribution of, 1,2, 17, 78, 
 81, 84, 139, 149, 153 ; brackish soil 
 of mangrove swamps in relation to 
 coco-nut cultivation, 214, 219, 345, 
 422, 423, 425 ; importance of, and 
 uses, 220, wood unattacked by white 
 ants, 250, 251, camels useless in 
 mangrove swamps, 313, 317 ; 359, 
 366, 367, 368, 375, 376, 377, 378, 
 380, 382, 387, 390, 394, 397, 401, 
 402, 403, 404, 421, 426, 427, 431, 
 435. 437 > iri Zanzibar, at Mbweni, 
 546 ; in i'emba Island, 596 
 Maiiihot aipi, see Cassava, sweet 
 kind 
 glaziovii, see Ceara rubber 
 ntilissinia, see Cassava, Ijitter 
 kind 
 Manilla hemp (Miisafextilis), 220, 234, 
 
 prices, 236, fibre of, prices of, 577 
 Manioc, see Cassava 
 Manure, natural decayed leaf, in Pemba 
 Island, 602 ; use of manure in Zanzi- 
 bar, 552, 557, 574 
 Manzai, a lovely well-watered place, 
 
 285, 288 
 Map of Meteorological Stations in East 
 
 Africa, 637 
 Mapeya village, 376 
 Marereni, 69, 81, aspect of surround- 
 ings, 83, stockade at, 83, water 
 supply, 84, casuarina trees of, 221, 
 game near, 295, 296, river near, 
 298, orchella gatherers at, 299, 313 ; 
 300, 303,304, 310, surface springsat, 
 313, distance from Mombrui, 313, 
 from Krawe, 314, 317 
 Marriage customs {see Slaves), of the 
 Anoka tribe, 616 ; of the Gallas, 337, 
 
 338; of the Giryama, 113; of the 
 Pokomo, 333 ; Swahili, 243 ; of 
 
 ". Wanika labourers, requiring consent 
 of employer, 238 ; of the Wasania, 
 335 
 
 Marriage of earlh and sky, Giryama 
 belief, 103 
 
 Marseilles, trade with Zanzibar, 561, 
 564. 572 
 
 Masai, the, feared by the Wanika, 87, 
 125, and others, 195 ; their depreda- 
 tions in Giryama, etc., 100, results, 
 136, 318, 323, 330, 335 ; diet, 169; 
 war-paths usually near water, 187, 
 defences against, 323 
 
 Masai-land, cattle disease in, 348 
 
 Mashonaland, cattle disease in, 347 
 
 Masogoni, 405 
 
 Masud, an interpreter, 600, 608 
 
 Matabeleland, cattle disease in, 347 
 
 Matagi, 202,fshamba, 244 
 
 Mathews, General Sir Lloyd, Prime- 
 Minister to Sultan of Zanzibar, 506, 
 507, 514, 566, 587, 595 
 
 Matonga fruit, 303, 304 
 
 Mattaroni, head-men of, 392, 393, 394, 
 described, 395, reports on cotton of, 
 396, 636 ; rubber gatherers of, 398, 
 soil near, 399; 428, 429, 430, 431, 
 433- 435- 466, 470 
 
 Mauritius, clove culture in, 523, 732, 
 introduced from, into Zanzibar, by the 
 French, 553, 557; grass, 117, 119, 
 hemp, 234, prices of, 236 ; in 
 Zanzibar, 548; plants from, naturalized 
 in Zanzibar, 507 ; solution of labour 
 difficulty in, 208, 650 
 
 'Mazika' and 'Muli,' the greater and 
 lesser rains in Zanzibar, 510 
 
 M'Bawe lake, 399, 470 
 
 ' M'baya Sana' (very bad), a phrase, 470 
 
 M'Beledzoni canal {see Belesoni) 
 ' Mbono ' {see Cucurbit) 
 
 Mbweiii, Sir John Kirk's experimental 
 garden at, 271, 545, what it proves, 
 552 ; 568, 582, 585, 728 
 
 M'Dawa Island, 466 
 
 Mdo, 514, aspect of country near, 529, 
 
 533, 534. 535, 53^, 537 
 
 M'Doro, a Wanika head-man, 23, 43, 
 44, wants higher pay, 54; 71, brings 
 presents and wants to settle, 238 
 
 ' Medicine ' of the Wa- Pokomo to keep 
 off Somalis, 335 
 
 Medicines, native love of, 169 
 
 Mehanimi, raids at, 352 
 
 Mclindi, 4, rainfall, 8, 306, wind ob- 
 servations at, 9, temperature, 10, 
 meteorological observations at, 659 
 668 ; 12, 13. soil and cultivation at
 
 INDEX 
 
 759 
 
 15 ; da Gama's pillar at, 16 ; chain 
 gang at, 53, 69 ; trade with Muscat 
 and Aden, 60, Swahilis of, 77, new 
 superintendent for, 86 ; distance from 
 Jelori, 90, 156, porters plucky, 125, 
 an excitement at, I75i threatened 
 attack on, 177, 178, 179, 183; Arabs 
 hunt for lunaway slaves at, 195; 199, 
 203 ; cultivation between Melindi 
 and Takaungo, 204, 214, 244, tribes 
 in district, 207 ; 247, 252, 263, 
 transport contracts, 262 ; 271, lions 
 near, 275 ; vile water at shambas, 
 292 ; game near, 295, 305, 314; the 
 Tana the main route to and from, to 
 Kamu, 331 ; 351, 412, harvest at, 478 
 Memorandum of number of men re- 
 quired on a model farm with estimate 
 of probable rate of pay, 208, 209 
 Mere, coco- nut shamba at, 89, 90, 
 
 height above sea-level, 221, 274 
 Merikano, slave settlement, 117, 119, 
 
 121, and surroundings, 332 
 Metamah or millet [Sorg/niiii vidgare, 
 and Pcnisetiiin typhoideuin) {see 
 also Millet), distribution and 
 cultivation, 15, 18, export of, 60, 
 bye-products of, 60, 142, 474; cultiva- 
 tion of, 63 ; Guniah harvest, methods, 
 77 ; 84, in bad condition, 146, 147 ; 
 scarce and dear, 300, 388, 391, 395; 
 405, 420, 425, 431, 466, 475, 476, 
 477, two crops a year, 478 ; 499, 
 542 
 Metamah wa Pembe, grown by the 
 
 Watiku, 477, 478 
 ISIeteorology {see Dewfall, Humidity, 
 Rainfall, Temperature, etc.) 
 Agricultural seasons, 57, 58 
 Barometrical determinations of 
 
 height, 221 
 Climatological returns for British 
 
 East Africa, extracts from, 656 
 Conditions, parallel, between West 
 
 Indies and Zanzibar, 576 
 Meteorological observations : 
 Ceylon, 579 
 Chuyu, 8, 9, loi, 659 
 Faza, 389 
 
 Fiji, 579 
 
 Fort Smith, 661, 666 
 
 Golbanti, 325 
 
 Greenwich, 10 
 
 Jelori, 8, 221 
 
 Kau, 342 
 
 Kibwezi, 656, 657, 670, 672, 
 
 673. 674, 675 
 Kionga, 438 
 Kismayu, lO, 660, 669 
 Lamu, 8, 10, 438 ; 660, 969 
 
 Machako, 661, 664 
 Magarini, 8, 10, 36, 660, 670 
 Makongeni, 125, 192, 194, 221 
 Melindi, 8, 9, 10, 659, 658 
 Mombasa, 7, 8, 9, 10, 658, 665 
 Mongichi, 675 
 
 Mumia's, in Kavi rondo, 670, 675 
 Ndii, 668, 
 Patta, 389 
 
 Pemba, no European observa- 
 tions, 593 
 Ras Shangani, 510, 511 
 Ribe, 8 
 
 Sabaki river, 306 
 Shimoni, 667 
 Siyu, 389 
 
 Trinidad, 551, 576, 579 
 Uganda, 670 
 Victoria Nyanza, variations in 
 
 level, 670, 676, 677 
 Zanzibar, 511, 551, 576, 579 
 Rainfall 7, 8, 9, 98, in connec- 
 tion with forest destruction, 103, 
 of Sabaki, 119, 306, of Gambia, 
 227, of Jelori and Melindi, 306, 
 of Unga, 377, near Itembe, 427, 
 428; of Kionga, 438; in Pemba, 
 510, 588, 589, 592, no European 
 observations, 593 ; of Zanzibar, 
 510, 511, compared with that of 
 Trinidad, 551, 576, in relation 
 to humidity, 57S ; comparative 
 tables of, 579 
 Rainfall tables for East Africa, 662, 
 
 663, 669, 671 
 Relative humidity, 10 
 Temperatures, 9. 96, at and near 
 Makongeni, 125, at StockaileNo. 
 2., 191, 192, 194, at Magarini, 
 244, at Lake Krawa, 304, 318, 
 at Golbanli, 325, on the Tana 
 river, 329, at M'Pekatoni, 368, 
 at M'Kumbi, 373, at Wange, 
 400; 404, 408, 411, 435, near 
 Kiongwe, 422, of the wet season, 
 428, 429, 447, 454, at Kionga, 
 441, 473, near Bui kau, 467, at 
 Ras Kiambone, 469, at Ilomwe, 
 476, near Kave, 488, 490, near 
 theUodori, 497, near Shimbwe, 
 499 ; at Zanzibar, 512, 513, 
 compared with that of Trinidad, 
 etc., 551, 579 
 Wind direction, 9 
 
 M'gini village, etc., 404, 500, 501 
 
 ' Mgodoma ' trees, I02 
 
 Mgoli, giant clove tree at, 590 
 
 Midges, 383, 392, 400 
 
 Mikindu palms {Enccphalarios sp. ), 599 
 
 Milimani village, 376
 
 76o 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Millet, Metamah, or Guinea corn 
 {Sorghum vulgare, or Penisdum 
 iyphoidciim') {sec also Metamah and 
 Guinea corn), distribution and cul- 
 tivation of, 57, 59, 63, 123, 143, 
 149, exported, 60 ; 255; 328, 332, 
 333> 334, 359, 363. 366, 40S, 421, 
 432, 435, 475 ; 111 Zanzibar, 542, 548, 
 572, 641 _ 
 
 Mimosa, distribution of, 4, liS, 191, 
 310, 314, 317. 335, 336, 340, 350, 
 353, 374, 3*^4, 387, 399, 433, 437, 
 452, 455, 45^. 
 
 Mitole, cultivation near, 333 
 
 Mitopalclii, mangrove swamps, Pemba, 
 
 599 
 
 Mission Boundary proposed, 271 
 
 Mission converts' beliaviour in face of 
 threatened attack, 178 ; civilizing in- 
 fluence of, 98 
 
 Mission to Uganda, 304 
 
 Missionaries, see Church Missionary 
 Stations, Free Methodist, German 
 Mission, London Missionary Society, 
 Swedish, etc. 
 
 ' Miwale,' Swabili name fora palm found 
 in Pemba, 599 
 
 Mixed cultivation in clove shambas, 557 
 
 'Mjugu mawe ' (Bambarra ground-nut), 
 543 ; and 'Mjugu nyassa,' 543, 572 
 
 M'Kanumbi, 351, 375, water supply, 
 
 M'Kauoni, Denhardt's jilantations at, 
 
 417, 419, 420; 500 
 Mkorogo Hill, cultivation of, 542, 543 
 jM'Kumbi, 370, 371, river, 373 
 M'Lango Kipungani, estuary, 378 
 M'lango la Siyu, hill, 307 
 Mlanji, experiments with fibres at, 234 
 M'lengo-Baya, runaway-slave settle- 
 ment, llS, 119, 169, 171, 184, caravan 
 
 route to, 318 
 Mnagana, a variety of metamah, 477 
 M'Narani shamba, 145, B. E. A. Co.'s 
 
 custom house at, 251 
 Mndene, Watiku village, 431, 432, 
 
 water of, 434 
 ' Moaa,' native spade, 556 
 Model farm, note as to labour required 
 
 and cost of wage, 20S 
 Mohamed, head-man of Gongoni, 73, 
 
 74, 7S 
 Mohamed Bafaro, one of Fumo Oniari's 
 
 leadeis, 493 
 Mohamed bin Hussein, an Indian, 
 
 made overseer at Magarini, 176, 237, 
 
 results of his work, 23S ; his belief 
 
 in witchcraft, 243, 244 
 Mohamed bin Jumah bin Said, an Arab 
 
 cultivator in Pemba, 594, 595, 597, 
 
 599, 600, 601, on slave versus free 
 labour, 602. 607, 610 ; 607, 608, 
 611 
 
 Mohamed-bin-Saif, brother of Mze 
 Saif, 433, his home; 436, 438, he 
 makes difficulties, 439, 440, 441, 442, 
 465, 466, 471, 475, 479, and the 
 shambas, 476, 477, 478, 479, 482, 
 483, 484, 487, duiiious followers, 493 
 Mohamed bin Saif, secretary to Sultan 
 of Zanzibar, his property at Dunga, 
 538, on scarcity of labour, 539 
 Mohamed bin Saif Drumiki, overseer 
 of the Sultan's plantations at Mdo, 
 534, on clove culture, 535 
 Mohamedanism {see Islamism) 
 Moinkanda village, 376 
 Moira district, 586 
 Moko plantain, in Zanzibar, 571 
 Moluccas, the habitat of the clove, 553, 
 methods of clove culture in, 557, and 
 of curing, 559, 562; 732, 733, 734 
 Mombasa Harbour, I, and harbours, 5, 
 6, 7, 12, 13 
 Island, 6, rainfall at, 7, 8, tabu- 
 lated, 9, temperature an.l humi- 
 dity, 10, other meteorological 
 observations, 658, 665 ; timber 
 trade, 8, 153, 225, seat of ad- 
 ministration, 86; 131, 195, 200, 
 242, 250, 252, Ceara rubber tree 
 at, 225, cotton at, its value, 259, 
 distance from Magarini, 26S, 
 Somali children from, 273, 281, 
 return of the Survey, 2S2, 286 ; 
 Bishop Tucker at, 285, 286, 
 287 ; 292, Nubians from, 295, 
 Christmas at, 305 ; 308, 309, 
 378. 379, 383 ; the Tana river 
 the main route to Lamu, 331 ; 
 351, within the tsetse district, 
 355 ; country to the south of, to 
 be explored, 406; 407 ; start 
 for, 412, lion hunt near, 415 ; 
 463, 501, 505, witchcraft in, 
 600 ; suitable spot for experi- 
 mental culture, 730 
 Mombasa tribes of Portuguese descent, 
 
 114 
 Mombrui {see Ali bin Salim, the 
 Liwali), 4, 17, 74, low hills of, 77, 
 84 ; 81, distance to Arbagundi, 166, 
 trial of Ali bin Jumah at, 176; 214, 
 222, transport contracts, 264, the 
 Liwali's proposed school for, 300; 
 310, surface water at, good, 313; 
 318, distance from Golbanti, 322 
 Monakombe river, 521 
 Money {see Dollar rt;/</Kupee, etc. ), Galla 
 substitutes, 337
 
 INDEX 
 
 761 
 
 Mongichi, meteorological observations 
 
 at, 675 
 Mongoni creek, 401, 402, 403, 500 
 Monkeys, 78, 81, liking for ' Malongo' 
 
 fruit, 304 
 Month, the Giryama, iii 
 Moon, the, in Giryama folklore, III 
 Moorva fibre, see Sansevicria zeylanica 
 Morris, D. (Assistant Director, Kew), 
 on cocoa culture in Jamaica, 583, 
 on commercial fibres, 578, 7I9> on 
 rubber plants, 228, on sugar culture 
 in Jamaica, 570 
 Mosques, arch and ornaments of, 443 
 Mosquitoes, 22, 36, 82, 170, a vigor- 
 ous breed. 192, 299, 304, 318, 328 
 Mote, a Wasania head-man, 155 
 Mows, or canoes of the Wa-Pokomo, 
 
 M'pela. village of the Bajoni, 422 
 M'Pekatoni, lake, 350, 357, 368, and 
 
 village, 369, 387, 407 
 M'pengo, natis'e name for ebony {q. 
 
 V.) 
 
 M'Shaka, rubber of, 149, 150 ; 244, 
 distance from Melindi, 247 ; 281, 
 bad water of, 292 ; 412 
 
 M'Soma, head-man of the Watoro, 
 122, 123, 124, 130, 184, 185, 193, 
 195, 200, spokesman as to terms 
 for complete freedom, 201, his good 
 conduct, 202, 241, 242 
 M'sufi,' see Silk-cotton 
 
 M'Swakini, village, 432 
 
 Mtaa trees, 370 
 
 'M'Tanga neussi,'a black friable loam, 
 299 
 
 M'Tanganyiko, port, 99, water supply, 
 130, trade of, 138, Wanika settlers 
 at, 139, 145, vegetation near, 139, 
 suited to castor-oil plants, 229, 
 newly acquired by the B. E. A. Co., 
 244, 249, accessible to dhows, 250, 
 288 ; rivers near, 291 
 
 M'Tapa, shambas at, 412 
 
 Mto Mombamba stream, 345 
 
 Mto Tana, askari station on the Tana, 
 
 331 
 
 MTomoni cum Wegne Akombo, 
 shambas, 340, 341 
 
 M'Tondoa, 146, 147, 149, 244, coun- 
 try near, 248, 281 ; 291, 421 
 
 Mtori, north of the Tana river, 331 
 
 M'Toto lake, 324 
 
 Mugakha Lizard, the, and his message, 
 
 Muhoni river, 103 
 Muicarabu, 377 
 
 Muini Ku Wadunga, last ' Sultan ' of 
 Dunga, 542 
 
 Mulali, 350 
 
 Mulberry tree, Indian smill variety in 
 Zanzibar, 547, 568 
 
 ' Mulungo,' name for God in Giryama, 
 103 
 
 Mumia's (in Kavirondo), meteorolo- 
 gical observations al, 670, C75 
 
 Mundane Ililis, 391, 398, 399, 422, 
 425, 427, 471, 479, 480, 484, 488, 490 
 
 Mundane Range, see Mundane Hills 
 
 Munga tree, 326 
 
 Murrain {see also Cattle disease), 
 213 
 
 Musama Lake, near Tana river, 329 
 
 Muscat, 60, donkeys of, and their 
 price, 264 ; slave trade at, 157 
 
 Mwaeba's Hill, C. M. S. station at, 
 100 
 
 Mwaiba, distance from M'Tanganiko, 
 291 
 
 Mvvana Island, residents an 1 market 
 at, 522 
 
 Mwangudo river and district, 102, 103 
 
 M'Wekundu, 479 
 
 Mwera river, bridged, 535> 544' '^'''" 
 trict, and plantations, 543, under- 
 ground course of waters, 544, alleged 
 nutmeg culture at, 608 
 
 Mwera Korokwe river, 544 
 
 Mweru lake, tsetse-fly of, 357 
 
 Mwina, plantations of, 333 
 
 ' Myhi ' fruit, 395 
 
 Mze Saif, of Patta, 380, 382, 389, 3)0, 
 391, 392, interview with, 393 ; 397, 
 400, letters of introduction from, 
 423, 441, 446, 449, 451 ; he lends a 
 guide, 429, 430, 431, 433, 436, 463, 
 limits of his authority, 466, 470, 471, 
 482 
 
 Mzinga Mzinga river, 520, 521 
 
 Mzingam, uncultivated plain, 537, 542 
 
 N 
 
 Nakoa Amdari, 41, shoots tree cobras, 
 173, skilful with snakes, 267, 268 
 
 Nakoa Feruzi, 41, 53, and the rain- 
 gauge, 255 
 
 Nakoa Tofike, 70 
 
 Nakoas, or head-men of slaves, 31, 
 accused of witchcraft, 243, 241 
 
 Narrow escape of author, 178 
 
 Nasur bin Suliman, his shambas, 33, 
 35, 69, inspected, 70 ; 72, 74, 
 sale of his goods, 85, 86, his wife's 
 destitution, 175, experimental culti- 
 vation on his shambas, 259 
 
 Nasur M'Baraki Jubri, elephant hunter 
 and guide, 471, 476, 4S8, 479, 482, 
 486
 
 762 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Nalal, example of, in use of coolie 
 
 labour, 208 
 Native: cultivation, methods of, 18, 22, 
 23, 43, 69, 77, checked by lack of 
 slaves, 32, 207 
 doctor engaged, 57 
 ignorance as to time and dates, 202 
 paths, characteristics of, 90, 139 ; 
 
 Masai war-paths, 187 
 Staff, 41, 42 
 wants and work, 207 
 Naval Brigade's operations, 177, 353 
 Navigation of the Sabaki, impossible, 
 
 222, 225 
 N'Dau, 391, 400, 401 
 N'dera, 332, 333, 334 
 Ndii, meteorological observations at, 
 
 668 
 Negroid tribes, how affected by cattle 
 
 disease, 348 
 New Orleans cotton, experiments with, 
 
 256, destroyed by rats, 260, 272 
 New products suitable for cultivation 
 
 in Zanzibar, 576-584 
 New Year, Arab and Swahili festivities, 
 
 14, 415 
 New York, import of Clove-stalks from 
 
 Zanzibar, 560 
 New Zealand Hemp, prices for, 236 
 Ngao, 327, 328, 329, 332, 345 
 Ngatana, Pokomo village, 333 
 Ngoa, a false alarmist, 177, 183 
 Ngozi language, 113 
 Nguana, 334, 335 
 Niambwe village, 474, 476 
 Night, silence of, in Africa, 36, 1 18 
 N'konge aloes, called also ' Omodo' (ji?^ 
 
 Aloes, and Fibre-producing plants, 
 
 etc.), 93, 123, 188, 194, 230, 274, 
 ^ 327. 398, 399 
 Northern Giryama, and districts, loi, 
 
 102 
 Nubians from Equatoria, as labourers, 
 
 295 
 Nutmeg - tree {Myristica moschata), 
 
 groves of, in Central Africa, proving 
 
 its suitability, 229 ; experiments with, 
 
 255 ; in Zanzibar, 548, suited to 
 
 culture in Zanzibar, 581, 608 ; not 
 
 cultivated in Pemba, 589, only one 
 
 tree there, 608 
 Nyari, 99 
 Nyasaland, cattle disease in, 348, 
 
 tsetse-fly in, 357 ; success of coffee 
 
 plantations in, 550, 628 
 Nyika, tribe and language, loi, locale, 
 
 N'Zovini, or N'Zovoni, river, 139, 250. 
 282, 288, 291 
 
 O 
 
 Oak {see Casuarina or she-oak, and 
 Silky oak), a dwarf tree resembling, 
 460 
 
 Oda-boro-rova, scenery near, 336 
 
 Oil grain, cultivation of, 204 
 
 Oil palms {Ehris guiiieoisis), 298, in 
 Pemba, 590, 597, 600 ; in Zanzibar 
 (<-,7//tv/ Inchikichi), 520, 548 
 
 Oil plants of Zanzibar, 548 
 
 Olive culture desirable, 272. report on, 
 by Sir John Kirk, 649 
 
 Oman, Arabs of, in Zanzibar, 510 
 
 Omar bin Abed, estate agent, 71, 86 
 
 Omari bin Issa, head-man of Siyu, 386, 
 388, 420 
 
 Omari Madi, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 
 
 365 
 'Omodo,' native name for 'n'konge' 
 
 aloe, 327 
 Oranges, 34, 40, 64, 70, 102, trees, 285 ; 
 
 in Zanzibar, 517, 521, 526, 528, 543, 
 
 547, cultivation of, 568 ; in Pemba, 
 
 590, 598 
 
 Orchella weed {Rocella tiiutoria and 
 Rocella tricifonnis), distribution, col- 
 lection, and use, 69, 83, 85, 188, 300, 
 313, 411, 455 ; in Zanzibar, 548, 
 574 ; report on, 649 
 
 Ornamental painting of the Wa- Pokomo, 
 
 324 
 Ornaments of the ^^a-Boni, 451, of 
 
 the Wa-Galla, 337, 338, of the Wa- 
 
 Pokomo, 334 
 Ostrich feathers, report on, 650 
 Ostriches near Kiliti, 298, 299 
 Ozi river, navigable, 4, 381, hippopo- 
 tami, etc., in, 341, 344, 359, 408; 
 
 waters of, 339, 342, is tidal, 344 ; 
 
 its affluents, 345 ; 366, bar at mouth, 
 
 367 
 
 Pah antelope {Neotragus), 393 
 Palmyra palms, toddy from, 3 
 Pangani, 230, 351 
 Papain, its source and value, 569 
 Papaw tree {Carica papaya, L. ), distri- 
 bution and cultivation, 64, 103, 133, 
 144, 250, 285, 333, 370 ; in Zanzibar, 
 547, its uses, 569 
 Para rubber {ffevea brastliensis), 
 suited for experimental culture, 149, 
 171, near the Sabaki river, 226, 229, 
 in Zanzibar, 548. notes on its culti- 
 vation, etc., 678 
 Parsees in Zanzibar, etc., 510 
 Passion fruit {Grcnadilla}, 547
 
 INDEX 
 
 763 
 
 I'atta Island, or Pate {scy Mze Saif, eU.), 
 2, 7, 12, inliabitants, 73, 381, 386, 
 visited by author, 379, 383, indus- 
 tries, 3S1, 385, hemp of, 384, 
 historical references, 386, 387, 388 ; 
 404, suited to coco-nut cultivation, 
 419 ; tobacco of, 439 
 
 Paza, see Faza 
 
 Pear {see Avocada Pear), 548 
 
 Peas {seeBnazi, Congo pea, e/e.) {Caj'a- 
 itiis iiidh-its), 517, 51S, 523, 535, 548 
 
 Pemba Island, spice, etc., of, 13, 41, 88, 
 slave-trade and slavery at, 157, 
 abolished, and results, 549, 550, 
 609, 610, 611 ; 244, 252, cuttings 
 from, 255 ; population of, 509 ; rains 
 in, 510 ; plants of, 548; importance 
 of export trade in cloves, 553, 554, 
 cloves of, compared with those of 
 Zanzibar, 559 ; table of exports, 560; 
 clove culture, 561, 587-595, 600, 601, 
 606, 608; tour in, its objects, 587, 588; 
 geographical position and geological 
 formation of the island, 588 ; coco- 
 nuts on, 593, 594, 597, 598, man- 
 goes, 593, 594, jack trees, 594, 
 general cultivation, 596-605, nutmeg 
 cultivation, 60S, copra manufacture, 
 608 
 
 Pemba dwarf coco-nut tree, 88, 149, 
 
 565 
 
 Penang, clove-drying in, 559, 562 
 
 Peiu'seliim typhoideuiii, see Millet 
 
 Pepper vine {Piper nigruiii), 41, suitable 
 soil for, 68 
 
 Pepper : (A. Capsicum annuum, fasti- 
 giaiiiDi, and//-i(/esee/is), cultivated in 
 Zanzibar, 539, 540, 572, 573; (B. Piper 
 nigrum), probably suitable for Zanzi- 
 bar, 582, Malabar methods of grow- 
 ing, 582, 583 ; not cultivated in 
 Pemba, 589, but might be, 609 
 
 Persian colonists in East Africa, their 
 descendants, 386, 443, encaustic 
 tiles of, 443 , their year, 113 
 
 Philomel, 1 1. M.S., 304 
 
 Pice, 122 
 
 Pigott, J. R., B. E. A. Co.'s Acting Ad- 
 ministrator, 12, 13, 414 
 
 Pillars : ^^asco da Gaina's Pillar, 16, 
 Arab tomb, 437, at Ras M'Narani, 
 445, 467, on Kiongawana Island, 
 440 
 
 Pimento {Pi meitta officinalis) at Mbweni, 
 546, 548, suited for cultivation in 
 Zanzibar, 5S2 
 walking-sticks, 582 
 
 Pineapples {Ananas saliva) {see Sham- 
 bas), distribution, cultivation, and 
 uses, 63, 88, 103, 133, suitable forculti- 
 
 vation, 236, 291, 332, fibre-yielding, 
 549, suited to cultivation in Zanzibar, 
 as fibre-plants, 578 ; in Malacca, 
 578, exported from Formosa, 578 ; 
 in Pemba Island, 600, 603, 604 ; 
 report on, 526 
 
 Pineapples, wild {Bromclia), 596 
 
 Pishi, its equivalent in lbs., in I'eniba, 
 607 
 
 Plantains {Musa spp. ), 34, 41, 122, 328, 
 329, 330. 331, 333. 334, 335. 336, 
 337. 369, at Mbweni, 545 ; the Moko 
 kind, 571 
 
 Plants sent to Kew by .Sir John Kirk, 
 729, 730 
 
 Pleuro-pneumonia {see Cattle diseases), 
 
 347. 348 
 
 Plough, unknown, 22, ryot plough 
 should be imported, 41, 209; the 
 first introduced, 309, Arab views on, 
 506 
 
 Pokomo {see Wa-Pokomo), district of, 
 207, villages 326, 329, 330, salt 
 trade in, 331, 332, 334, 342, 346, 
 348 
 
 Pokomoni creek, 401, and river, 402 
 
 Pomegranates, 40, 70 ; in Zanzibar, 547 
 
 Poonac, a bye-product of the coco-nut, 
 209, 214 
 
 Population of the Coast-lands, 10 
 
 Port Durnford {see also Burkau), I, 2, 
 estuary, 4, 12, 441 ; harbour, 7 ; 12, 
 region near to be explored, 310; 382, 
 406, 417, 429, 439, 441, 446, char- 
 acteristic features of, 467, coco-nuts 
 on the shore, 470 
 
 Port Kilindini, 6, 7 
 
 Port Reitz, 6, 7 
 
 Port Tudor, 6 
 
 Portal, Sir Gerald, Consul-General at 
 Zanzibar, 295, 300, his death, 304; 
 
 505 
 
 Porters of Ayubu's caravan, run away, 
 200-202 
 
 Porters, difficulties with, 125, 184, 185, 
 193, 194, pleasant relations with, 
 141 ; their shoes, 188 ; 201, custom 
 of, 296, holiday to, 300 ; excellent 
 behaviour of, 41 1, afraid of P'umo 
 Omari, 497, attacked by wild dogs, 
 498, safe home, 499, paid off, 501 ; 
 well-earned praise, 502, 503 
 
 Portuguese occupations of East Africa, 
 modern results of, 114, traces of, 360, 
 379, 385 ; in Zanzibar, 510 
 
 ' I'osho,' battaor food allowance, 44, 71 
 
 Prayers to the dead in Giryama, 105 
 
 Presents to the guides, 483 
 
 Prices paid for different commodities, 
 see Appendix B. , 624 : Bananas, 59,
 
 764 
 
 INDEX 
 
 570, fil)ic of, 571 ; Beans, 63, 122, 
 143 ; lictel nuts, 64 ; liuildiiig stone, 
 602 ; Camels, 264 ; Cassava, 63 ; 
 Cattle (diauglil), 213, 264 ; Cloves, 
 555' 559' 56°. 561, 562 ; Coco-nuts, 
 59, 148, 523, 524, 564 ; Coir, 524 ; 
 Copra, 260 ; Cotton, 259, 365 ; 
 Donkeys, 17, 264; Fire-wood, 81; 
 Fowls, 162 ; Gingelly oil, 361 ; 
 Gunny-bags, 263 ; Indiarubber, 143, 
 152, 228, 230, and Appendix D., 
 678 ; Maize, 60, 122 ; Mangoes, 
 64 ; Oranges, 64 ; Orcliella weed, 12, 
 84 ; Pulse, 63 ; Rice, 60 ; Sansevieria 
 and sisal hemp, etc., 234, 235, 236, 
 577, 721, 722; Sesame, 361; Sheep, 
 472 ; Silk cotton, 64, 226 ; Slaves, 
 28, 131, 151, 610; Sugar-cane, 63 ; 
 Tobacco, 64 
 
 Principal products, 58 
 
 Pringle, Capt,, of the Railway Survey, 
 286 
 
 Proliibition of spirituous liquors by 
 B. E. A. Co., a substitute, 183 
 
 Public-spirited natives, 209, 300 
 
 Puff-adder {sec .Snakes), sent to Eng- 
 land, 267, 268 
 
 Pulse (j6Y 13eans), 63, and /(Z.fw'w ; in 
 Zanzibar, 548 
 
 Pumpkins, 123, 142, 335, 517, 523, 
 540, 54S 
 
 Punitive expedition against I- umo 
 Omari, 177, 353 
 
 Pythons {sec Snakes), alleged fear of 
 ants, 267 
 
 R 
 
 Rabat, C. M. S. station, 281, 286, hills, 
 287, creek and neighbourhood, 2S8 
 
 Rae, Dr., of the B. E. A. Co., 346, 501 
 
 Ragi, head overseer at Cliueni palace, 
 516, 556 
 
 Raggy or wembe {Elcusinc coracana), 
 cultivation and distribution, 64, 65, 
 144, 149, 391, 405, 438; in Zanzibar, 
 
 548 
 Railway, direction of, 175 
 Railway Survey, detailed, 171, 176, 
 
 185, arrives, 199, returns, all well, 
 
 282, 286 
 Rain disliked by the Wanika, 67, 99, 
 
 120 
 Rainfall {see Meteorology) 
 Rain-gauge established at Jelori, 98, 
 
 at Magarini, 255 
 Rain-making in CJiryama, 106 
 Rain-tree {Pilhciolobitun saiiiaii), 247 
 Rain-wash, effects of, 137, 339 
 Ramazan, interpreter, 36, 72, 73, 82, 
 
 87, 94, 123, invaluable, 125 ; 128, 
 his wife's adventures, 130, 131, 132; 
 133. .135' 150, 151, 166, 173, 17S, 
 his dissipation, 183 ; 193, on witch- 
 craft, 244 
 
 Rambutan fruit tree {Nepheliiiin lap- 
 pacciiiii), in Zanzibar, 548 
 
 Ramie or Rhea fibre, 233, 336 
 
 Ras Garavole, 440 
 
 Ras Kiambone {Dick''s Head), wells 
 at, 441, 442, 469 
 
 Ras Kitua, 317 
 
 Ras M'Narani, or Cape of the Pillar, 
 
 251, 445' 467, 468 
 
 Ras N'Gomani, 78, 81, fan ])alm in- 
 dustry of, 263, 313 ; 304 
 
 Ras Shangani, meteorological observa- 
 tions at, 510, 511 
 
 Rashid, interpreter, 418, 422, 470, 
 
 479' 490, 492. 493. 494' 497 
 Rashid bin Kalfan, his clove shamba, 
 
 525 
 
 Rats, damage done by, 2551 256, 260, 
 annoyance of, 297 
 
 Ravenstein. E. G., quoted, 9, on rains 
 in East Africa, 510, 51 1, on tem- 
 perature at Zanzibar, 513; sends 
 reports on climatology of B. E. A., 
 
 656 
 Re-birth and the K'oma in Giryamn, 
 
 104 
 Reception on estate, 277, 292 
 Registration of Watoro, 241, 242 
 Rent, how assessed by the Liwalis, 
 
 Reports, see Appendices, also Bib- 
 Hog, aphical Index 
 
 Reunion {see also Bourbon), mango 
 seed from, 534, cloves introduced 
 to, 553, clove culture in, 557 
 
 Revenue {see Exports, etc.), 559, 561, 
 567 
 
 Rhea or Ramie fibre, 236 
 
 Rhinoceros, at Marereni, 81, in the 
 Sabaki, 188, 191, charge Mr. 
 Foaker, 195 ; at Lake Krawa, 299 
 
 Rhodesia, cattle disease in, 347, 349 
 
 Ribe, meteorological observations at, 
 8, tribes at, loi, London Mission 
 Station at, 285 
 
 Rice {Oiyza sati'va), distribution and 
 cultivation, 18, 51, 58, 60, 63, 120, 
 122, 123, 137, 143, straw of, 209, 
 eaten by rats,'26o; 329, 330, 331, 
 soil for, 332, iS3, 334, 335, 336, 
 none at Koro-Koro, 337 ; near the 
 Utwani forest, 353. 354; 369, 391, 
 418, 420, 421. 425, 426, 427, 
 as food, 430, 444, 470, cultivated, 
 436, by Watiku, 478, given as a '
 
 INDEX 
 
 765 
 
 present, 491, 500; in Zanzibar, 516, 
 517, 518, 519, 520, soil suited for, 
 522, 524, 536 ; 526, dry culture, 
 527 ; 528, 533, 540, 571, 572 ; in 
 Pemba, 594, soil suited for, 599 ; 
 601, 605; report on, in B. E. A., 
 650 
 
 Rise of land from sea to Stockade No. 
 2., 221 
 
 River system (see Dodori, Ozi, Saba- 
 ki, Tana, e/c), 4 
 
 Roads, between Melindi and the sham- 
 bas, 44, 51, 73 ; between Mombrui 
 and tlie shambas, needed, 65 ; road 
 to Jelori begun, 86, 89 ; Anstruther's, 
 118; near Mangea Hill, made by 
 Lugard, 133; 162, 165, 169; to 
 Makongeni, 192, near the shambas, 
 264 
 
 Roads, need for, 89, 144, 551 
 
 Roads in Zanzibar, eh:, Eraser's, 
 grown over, 522 ; good near the 
 town of Zanzibar, 544 ; across 
 island, 566; more required, 551 
 
 Robb, Dr. John, his meteorological 
 observations at Zanzibar, 510, 512, 
 views as to decrease in rainfall there, 
 
 Robinson, Sir W., his fibre specimens, 
 712 
 
 Rogers, A. S., Officer of B. E. A. Co., 
 346, on cattle disease, 348 ; 375, 
 406, 417, 425, 428, 429, 430, 449, 
 493> 501, first to enter Jongeni when 
 taken, 512 
 
 Roka, wells of, 149, 247 ; 2}4, 248, 
 281, 291 
 
 Roofs of fan palm, their durability, 
 
 353, 441 
 of makuti, 380 
 
 Rope, see Coir 
 
 Rose-apple in Zanzibar, 547 
 
 Routes marched, with notes on aspect 
 of country, soil, plant and animal 
 life, etc. : Melindi to Magarini, 
 17, 18, and back, 44-48, back 
 again, via Boma Upandi, 48, 
 49, Magarini to Gongoni, 73, Gon- 
 goni to Ras N'Gomani, 78-81, Ras 
 N'Gomani to IMarereni, 81-83, ^^'i- 
 rereni via Gongoni to Mombrui, 84, 
 thence to Melindi, 85, thence to 
 Jelori via Mere, 86, 88-99, Jelori 
 to Makongeni, 116- 121, up the 
 Sabaki, 1 25-129, Makongeni to 
 Takaungu via Fuladoyo, 130-140, 
 thence to Kilifi, 145, 146, thence to 
 M'Tondoa, 147, thence to Roka, 
 149, thence to M'Shaka, 142, thence 
 
 to Aroboko, 150, thence to Melindi, 
 I53-ISS> "P Sabaki, North side, to 
 intercept slave caravan, 157, to 
 Singwaia, 161, to Arbagundi, 165, 
 to Jelori, 173, to IMelindi, 174, to 
 No. 2. Stockade, 176, 185, along 
 the Sabaki, 188, return to Makon- 
 geni, 191, thence to the half-way 
 camp, 193, back to the stockade, 
 199, thence to Makongeni, 201, to 
 Jelori, 202, to Melindi, 203, to 
 Magarini, 203, to M'Tanganyika, 
 244-259, via Roka, 247, M'Ton- 
 doa, and Konjorn, 248, 249, to 
 Mombasa, 250, 251, thence back to 
 the shambas, 277 ; to Mombasa by 
 the Shire, 281-285, ^^ck through 
 Giryama district, 286-292, to 
 Krawa lake, 296-299, again to 
 Krawa, 303, thence to Mombasa, 
 305, thence to the shambas, 306 ; 
 from Mombrui to the Tana via 
 Gongoni, etc., Marereni, and 
 Lake Krawa, 310, 322, along 
 the Tana, 323, back to Golbanti, 
 330, Golbanti to Witu down the 
 Tana, 330-351, ^Yitu to Kipini, 
 352-365, thence to Lamu and 
 Patta Islands, 366-389, Patta to 
 Lamu and Mombasa, 390-412, to 
 Port Durnford, 415-441, in the in- 
 terior, 474, and back to coast, 496, 
 to Lamu, 50 1 > through Zanzibar, 
 514, to Chueni, 515, to Kokotoni, 
 520, through environs, 524-526, 
 Kokotoni to Mdo, 529, via Dunga, 
 530, 534, Mdo to the East, 535, to 
 the South, 536, to Dunga, 537, 
 thence through the Wahadinu dis- 
 trict to the east, 539, to the South, 
 540, and back to Dunga, 541, 
 thence to Zanzibar city, 542-545, 
 thence to Mbweni Shamba, 545 
 Rubber (see American, Ceara, and other 
 kinds, Landolphia, Para rubber, 
 i7/id India-rubber), Rubber- 
 producing trees of Central 
 America, reported on by R. 
 Cross, Appendix D., 696 
 area in B. E. A., see Aroboko, 
 Utwani forest, aiui Appendix 
 D. 
 trade, impulse given to, by Sir 
 J. Kirk, 728 
 Rubu village, 433, water supply and 
 
 cultivation of, 434, 436, 437, 442 
 Runaway slaves, see Slaves, a/sc Wa- 
 
 nika a//i/ Watoro 
 Rupee, in relation to the dollar, 523
 
 766 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Sabaia cloth, 491 
 
 Sabaki river, 4, debouchment, 17 ; 24, 
 shores, 47, 48, 50, 92, tour up, 69, 
 86, 90, connected with Lake Jelori, 
 92 ; 93, 99, 118, swamjjs, 119, river- 
 bed, 120, forests near, 120, 126, and 
 jungle, 122 ; cultivation along, 123, 
 124, 150, proposed, 166, 201 ; 
 stockades along, 121, day's expe- 
 dition up, 125-129 ; 161, fords, 162; 
 176, 183, 185, march along shores 
 of, 186, 187 ; in flood, 191, 192, 202, 
 203, floods and tide, 222, a swim 
 in, 193 ; lions near, 194, 195, 277, 
 278, 281 ; 196, horse-fly along shores 
 of, 199 ; capabilities of, and length, 
 221, suggestions for developing, 
 ferries, irrigation facilities, 225-236, 
 not navigable, 225, special fitness of 
 region for rubber culture, 2?6, 227 ; 
 242, ferries wanted, 260, a road to, 
 cleared, 264, 273, rainfall along, 306; 
 native path by, 318, dum palms 
 along, 325, Sansevieria of, 327, 
 tsetse-fly on upper reaches, 357 ; 451, 
 report on jute of, 648 
 
 Sabaki valley, I, fertile, 3, 12, to- 
 bacco of, 15, road to open up, 89 
 
 Sacleux, Pere, his map of Zanzibar, 506, 
 
 509 
 
 Sacred animals, 106 
 
 Sacrifices, animal and other, at graves, 
 etc., in Giryama, 104, 105 ; 476 
 human, of relatives in relation to 
 witchcraft, Mombasa, 600 
 
 Sago palms, 248 
 
 Saidapet, Madras, Government agri- 
 cultui'al farm at, 208 
 
 Said, brother of Bwana Ahmed Bedwin, 
 a hunter, 296, 300, 303 
 
 Said bin Hamisi, Liwali of Melindi, 14, 
 17, 18, his friendliness, 33, and 
 courtesy, 36 ; 54, S6, 87, his planta- 
 tions, 88 ; 123, and Nasur's wife, 
 175, desires seeds, 259, 277, 306 
 
 Said bin Hamisi bin Said, his planta- 
 tions, 567, 599, 608 
 
 Saif bin Salim, 42 
 
 Sails of Bajoni dhows, 401 
 
 St. Vincent, clove culture in, 734 
 
 Salim or Selim, an askari [Arab soldier^, 
 72, 85, 93, 98, 116, invaluable, 125, 
 1.28, 133 
 
 Salim bin Abdulla's ferrj' over the 
 Sabaki ferry, 48 
 
 Salim bin Hamisi, Cadi of Dungi dis- 
 trict, his clove shambas, 525, and 
 hospitality, 526 
 
 Salim bin Hamisi, Liwali of Takaungu, 
 138, 143, 201, 202, 249, 281, 282, 
 291 
 
 Salim bin Saif, son of Mze Saif, 390, 
 a nuisance, 393 
 
 Salt, obtained by evaporation, 2, de- 
 posits of, at Gongoni, 78 ; lack of, 
 a cause of cattle disease, 349, 350 ; 
 in low-lying valleys, 247 ; salt lake 
 near Mto Tana, 331, near Witu, 346 
 
 Salt bush {Atriplcx halinioidcs, A. 
 iiiDitinnlaria, A. rcpeii:., A. spongi- 
 osa, A. vesicaria), 247, 248 
 
 Salt-water process of treating india- 
 rubber, 151, 152, 423 
 
 Salt water and coco-nuts, 219, 220, 
 407, 422, 425, 426, 523 
 
 Samku, lake, 467, really a series of 
 pools, 468, 469, 470 
 
 Sansevieria (Order Liliaccic) {see 
 Aloes, Bowstring-hemp, Fibre-pro- 
 ducing plants, etc.), 93, 102, 229; 
 climate for, 233, compared with other 
 fibre-producing plants, 234, 325 ; 
 large-leaved, in" Giryama, 288 ; with 
 short, sharp-jiointed leaves, 321 ; 
 notes on an unidentified variety, 325 ; 
 varieties near Lake Burabin, 330, near 
 Mundane Hill, 399, near Makindu. 
 458, near Shamku, 467 ; a few kinds 
 now lost to cultivation, 719 ; of 
 Zanzibar, inferior to those of the 
 mainland, 549 ; Sir lohn Kirk on, 
 
 Sansevieria Angolensis (of Dr. Wel- 
 
 witsch), 718 
 bract eat a, yi^ 
 cylindrica, Bojer, 230, 233, value 
 
 of, 234, uses, 235; 707, 711, 
 
 717, 718 
 gjtineensis, Willd. {or ' n'konge '), 
 
 230, near N'Zovoni river, 291, 
 
 Wasania method of extracting 
 
 fibre, 327 ; near the sea, 445 ; 
 
 report on, 624, 707, 710, 711, 
 
 712, 713, 718 
 Kirkii, Baker, 230, loves shade, 
 
 318; 321, 326, 399, 710, 715 
 longiflora, Sims, 230, 233, 235, 
 
 707, 710, 713, 714 
 sulcata, 711, 718 
 thyrsijiora, 710, 715 
 zeylanica, 707, 708, 710, 711, 712, 
 
 report on, 713 ; 715, 718 
 Scare-crows for hippopotami, 369 
 School for Arab children, planned by 
 
 the Liwali of Mombrui, 300 
 at Ngao mission, 328 
 Scorpions, 184 
 Scotch planters desired for Zanzibar, 551
 
 INDEX 
 
 767 
 
 Screw-pines, 102 
 
 Sea Island cotton, experiments with, 
 256 ; successful, 259 ; on Test's 
 plantation, 361, 362, out-turn, 363, 
 364, broker's report on, 365 ; on 
 Denhardt's estate, 401, 418 {sec 
 report on cotton, 634) 
 
 Sea-weed, unused, 17, 442, 44S ; as 
 manure, 575 
 
 Seasons, the, in Giryama, 112 
 
 Seeds, experiments with, 255, 259 
 
 Sekoki Hill, 89, 90, 91, 92, 158. 180, 
 203, height above sea-level, 221 ; 
 suitability for cacao planting, 229, 
 274 
 
 Semandato, Swahili village, 405 
 
 Semeli lake, 329 
 
 Sesame {Sesamiim indiciim), or Gin- 
 gelly, see Sim-sim 
 
 Settlements for runaway slaves, or freed 
 slaves, 32, 69, 86, 117, 119, 121, 130, 
 154. 165, 334, 486 
 
 Settlers, undesirable, near Jelori, 271, 
 272 
 
 Seychelles, double coco-nut of, 555 
 
 Seyd Barghash, the late Sultan of Zanzi- 
 bar, 440, 471, his troops, 501, 507, 
 his energy, 534, 569, his brothers, 
 
 535 .. . 
 Seyyid Ali bin Said, Sultan of Zanzibar 
 (1892) {see Kilwa, Mathews, dc.), 
 14, 15, his anti-slavery decree, 22 ; 
 252, 304, claim over Patta, 387 ; 
 505, his views on ploughs, 5065520, 
 his shambas at Kinabuni, 507, at 
 Chueni, 515, 516, 517. 556, 558, at 
 Kidichi and Kongoni, 519, at Mdo, 
 529, 534, at Dunga, 530 ; a clove- 
 planter, 558 ; lack of labour on his 
 estates, 559 
 Shade-trees, 563, 580, 597 
 Shaddock, 40, in Zanzibar, 568 
 Shaka, or Ki va Xgwena Wamasha Shaka 
 
 {see Tost), 360 
 Shakalasia, water-hole, 446, and Point, 
 
 448 
 Shakan, home of Ewana Siri, 399, 429, 
 want of wells, 441 ; 442, 469, 470, 
 
 471 
 Shambas, 14, how protected, 21, care 
 and cultivation required, 41, organiz- 
 ation of work, 42, difficulty in dis- 
 posing of produce, 300, 306 
 Shambas, list of those at Magarini {see 
 
 also Magarini), 39-40 
 Shamba Abedi, 40, products, 63 
 
 Awalthi or Feruzi, 40, coco-nuts 
 
 of, 66, 68 
 Baraka, 34, 36, work begun, 52, 
 53, 54, produce, 57, neglected, 
 
 65, but improving, 7 ; 252, lions 
 near, 277 
 Kitanga Ke Kubwa, 40, products, 
 
 M 
 
 Kozi, 40, products and condition, 
 
 65,67 
 M'Narani, 145, B. E. A. Co.'s 
 
 Custom House at, 251 
 M'Pandiani, 35, temperature at, 
 36, 40, water supply at, 43, 
 68 ; the future experimental 
 nursery, 69 ; 238, village amuse- 
 ments at, 267 
 M'Selm, 40, products, 69 
 M'Tusi, or Feressi, 40, cultiva- 
 tion and products, 68 
 Nghanima, 40, condition, 68, 264 
 Saraboko, 40, 68 
 Upandi {see Boma Upandi), 40 
 Shamku, lake, 467-470 
 Siiark, flesh of, eaten by Guniahs, 81, 
 
 and porters, 444 
 Sharpe, A., on cattle disease, 348 
 Shauri, or conference, 44, wearisome, 
 54, with the Wa-Giryama, 93, results, 
 97 ; with the Watoro at Makongeni, 
 122, 123; results, 124, a second, on 
 opening up the Sabaki, 201 ; at Jelori, 
 273 ; for guides at Burkau, 450, 451 ; 
 with Galla head-man, declined, 463 
 Shea, Sir Ambrose, impetus given by, 
 
 to sisal culture, 577 
 ' She-oak,' Australian {see Casuarina), 
 
 221 
 Sheep, salt-bush good for, 248 ; 435, a 
 feed for porters, /\ /\ ^ ; as bribes, 446 ; 
 of Watiku, 449, jirices at Kionga, 472 
 Sheher and the Sheheri Arabs, mat- 
 makers, 263 ; a stern husband 
 amongst, 278 
 Sheik Ali bin Nasur, his clove planta- 
 tion, Pemba, 602 
 Sheila village, an old Portuguese settle- 
 ment, 379 
 Sherwood Point {see Gome la Hekwa), 
 
 -, 444 . 
 
 Sheya village, destroyed by the \\a- 
 
 Galla, 465 
 Shinia la Tever village, 412 
 Sliimawongo ridge, 452 
 Shimbwe, grain depot, 421 ; 499, 500 
 Shingwia, ruins of his village, 462, 465 
 Shinoni, meteorological observations at, 
 
 667 
 Shiraz tobacco seed, 418 
 Shire highlands, tsetse-fly of, 356 
 ' Shortage ' on cloves, 559, 560, on 
 
 chillies, 573 
 Shwe, Island, village of the Watiku, 
 
 431, 466
 
 768 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Sidembe village, its bad water, 383, 
 
 Island, 390 
 Sierra Leone, ginger culture in, 583 
 Sikoko waclie Amadi, battle-field in 
 
 Palla, 386 
 Silk-cotton tree, called ' Kapok ' and 
 'Msufi' {Eriodeudron aiifraclii- 
 osinn), distribution, culture and uses, 
 64, 76, 87, 154, 220, 366, 369, 403, 
 uses and export, 568, 569 ; 590, 598, 
 report on, 648 ; in Zanzibar, 548, in 
 Temba 583 
 Silky cak of Queensland {Grcvillea ro- 
 
 Imsfa), a shelter tree, 563, 580 
 Simambaya Sendeni village, 432, Is- 
 land, 434 
 Simba or 'Lion' Hill, 317 
 'Simlm,' an English officer killed at 
 
 Kiongwana, 440 
 Sinimonds, on coco-nut oil, 260 
 Sim-sim or sesame {Sesannn/t iiidic7im), 
 called also Gingelly, distribution, cul- 
 tivation and uses, 15, 18, 50, 51, 61, 
 63, 84, 87, 88, 140, 143, 144, 147, 
 149, 361, 366, 368, 370, 377, 391, 
 395. 397. 405. 420, 435. 436, 466, 
 how sown, 478 ; in Zanzibar, etc., 
 548, 572 ; report on, 651 
 Singwaia, 161, 162 
 
 Sisal hemp {Agave rigida) {see Fibre- 
 producing plants), distribution, culti- 
 vation and uses, 234, prices for, 235, 
 236, 576, 721, 722, its true home, 
 577, article on, 577, 578 ; Appendix 
 E., 719 . . 
 
 Sisal hemp, varieties of Agave which 
 produce it {Agave rigida, var. longi- 
 folia, or Sacqui, Agave rigida, var. 
 Sisalana, or Yaxqui), notes on, 719 
 Sivatoni village, 371 
 Siyu, chief town of Patta Island, 383, 
 385, toddy of, 386 ; 387, 388, 3S9, 
 natives hostile, 393 ; grain trade of, 
 420 ; 421, 422 
 Skins from B. E. A., report on, 651 
 Slaves and Slavery (-f('^ Imported labour 
 and Labour question), in East 
 Africa, cost of, marriage and 
 work, 28, women, 31, privileges 
 of, 31, 32, rights, possessions and 
 treatment, 32 ; hired out, how 
 paid, 363, 521, 534; at Chucni, 
 
 516, 517 
 
 anti-slavery decree of Sultan, 22 
 
 as bird-scarers, 475, 479 
 
 freed by B. E. A. government, 21, 
 difficulties incurred thereby, 207, 
 342, 539. 543. 549; privileges of, 
 in Zanzibar, 525, and I'emba, 
 557 
 
 labour of, in Pemba, 601, 602, 
 villages of, 603 ; 604, scarce, 
 606, costly, 610 
 of Arabs, licence allowed to, 278, 
 279 ; of the Wa-Galla, 465 ; of 
 the Watiku, 486, 487 
 price given for, 28, by Gal las, 
 131 ; in Pemba and Zanzibar, 
 610, 611 
 raiding of, by the Somalis, 334, 
 
 methods, 335 
 runav^ay, called Watoro {q. v.), 
 119 ; 121, their route to Makon- 
 geni, 158 ; Arab hunt for, 195 ; 
 slave-trading by, 131 
 runaway, settlements for, see 
 
 Settlements, supra 
 trading in, by mixed caravans, 157, 
 road followed, 158; by runaway 
 slaves, 131 ; in Zanzibar and 
 Pemba, 610 
 Small-pox, 242 
 
 Smith, J- Bell-, B. E. A. Co.'s officer 
 
 at Melindi, 13, 17, 22, 24, 27, 28, 35, 
 
 36, 42, 54, 69, transferred to Taka- 
 
 ungu, 86 ; 123, at M'Narani, 146, 252 
 
 Snakes, poisonous, at Kilifi, 146, tree 
 
 cobra, or mamba {Dendraspis), at 
 
 Arbagundi, 172, in the Christmas 
 
 camp, 195, 196 ; at the shambas, 
 
 head used for ' medicine,' 267 ; 
 
 pythons and puff-adders, 267, 268 ; 
 
 near Mundane Hills, 488 
 
 Snake-bite, 42, 268 
 
 Snake-handling bv Nakoa Ambari, 267, 
 
 268 
 Sneezing, Giryama custom, 113 
 Snuff and hidden slaves, 610 
 Sohari cloth, 491 
 Somaliland, 12, source of the cattle 
 
 disease, 23 ; tsetse-fly of, 357, 4S7 
 Somalis : children resent being called 
 Galla, 273 ; their attack on Golbanti, 
 323, resisted by the Ndera men, 333, 
 slave-raiding by, 334 ; are feared by 
 the Wa-Gafla, 398, 465 ; 403, trade 
 in goats, 432, and cattle, 437 ; 449, 
 route followed, 463 ; their curiosity, 
 438 ; hostility to author's expedition, 
 446, the reason, 452 
 Sop, sour and sweet, in Zanzibar, 547 
 Sorghiiin viilgare, see Guinea corn, 
 
 Metamah, and Alillet 
 Soudan, cattle disease likely to extend 
 
 to, 348 
 Spade, or ' moaa,' used in Zanzibar, 556 
 Spice trees of Zanzibar, 548, and those 
 
 suited to, 583 
 Spirits, belief in, in Giryama, 104, 105, 
 106
 
 INDEX 
 
 769 
 
 Spirituous liquors, prohibited by B. E. 
 A. Co., 183 
 
 Squatter labour, 539 
 
 Stall-feeding for stock, desirable, 2IO 
 
 Sterile areas in Zanuibar, possible causes 
 and cures, 508, 509 
 
 Stock, a note on, 210 
 
 Stockades at Marereni, 83 ; Lugard's, 
 the first, 121 ; the second, 86, 174, 
 176, 183, road open to, 184, 185 ; 
 strengthened, 191 ; elephants near, 
 194) I95> I99> 200, 203 ; height above 
 sea-level, 221 
 
 Stones, flat, with circular piercings on 
 Buramanza hill, 457 
 
 Straits Settlements, clove culture in, 
 736 
 
 Strategic importance of Zanzibar, 508 
 
 Suez Canal, 508 
 
 Sugar, 21; not manufactured locally, 
 63, made from toddy, in India, 214 
 
 Sugar-cane {Sacchariiin officinarutn), 
 cultivation of, 21, 28, 34, 36, 63, on a 
 small scale, 220, of the Pokomo, 333, 
 335 ; cultivation and mills in Zanzi- 
 bar, 516-519, at Kokotoni, 512, 522, 
 524, 533> 569, near Mdo, 534, 536 ; 
 near Mbera river, 544, in Zanzibar 
 town district, 548, position of the 
 culture, 569, 570 ; in Jamaica, 570 
 
 Suggestions for developing the coast- 
 lands and the Sabaki district, 204-236 
 
 Suliman bin Abdulla, the expropriated 
 owner of the Magarini shambas, his 
 property, 14, 18, and cultivation, 20, 
 sugar, 21, 63 ; 22, 32, 35, experi- 
 
 . mental cotton cultivation, 34, 256 ; 
 list of shambas, 36, 42, 50, 64, 69 ; 
 85, his ex-slaves, 122, called 'bad,' 
 244 ; his destitute sister, 175 ; his 
 expressed hatred of Europeans, 495 
 
 Suliman bin Kalfan, his unfinished 
 house, 525 
 
 Sultan or Sheik bin Mohamed bin 
 Nasur, land-owner in Pemba, 589, 603 
 
 Sultan Khalifa, 335 
 
 Sultan Seyyid Ali, his clove plantation, 
 
 535 
 Sultan Seyyid Said, and his sons, 535, 
 
 the introducer of rambutan, 548 
 Sultan of Witu, the maker of the Eela- 
 zoni canal, 331 
 the rebel, see Fumo Omari 
 Sultans of Zanzibar {see also Seyyid 
 Ali bin Said and Seyd Barghash), 
 
 535 
 Sumatra, clove culture in, 563, nutmeg 
 culture, 581, silk-cotton culture, 569, 
 tobacco culture, 48, 652, 653, to- 
 bacco seed from, 410 
 
 Suria, a, her complaint, 278 
 
 Su-siki, see Toddy 
 
 Swahili characteristics, 156, 328 
 
 clergyman, a, 287 
 
 of the coast, 10, li, their New 
 Year, 14, their agricultural 
 methods, 18, 129, porters, 185 
 
 cultivation largely dependent on 
 slave labour, 207, 342 ; usual 
 products, 523 
 
 folklore, belief in witchcraft, 243 
 
 of Itembe, 391 
 
 justice distrusted by Wa-Giryama, 
 202 
 
 a, killed by crocodiles in Kilifi, 304 
 
 language, its prefixes, 85, origin, 
 113, and Watiki dialect of, 481 
 
 method of rice culture, 478 
 
 method of trading, 332 
 
 oppression of the Wa-Pokomo, 
 333, arrested by the advent of 
 the B. E. A. Co., 342 
 
 race, its constituents, 509, not to 
 be depended on as a source of 
 labourers, 549 ; 550, sub-di- 
 visions of, 616 
 
 vanity, an instance of, 242 
 
 villages on Lake Bere Beie, 405 
 
 weapons, 382 
 
 year, 113 
 Swedish mission burnt at Kulesa, 333 
 Sweet limes, 40, in Zanzibar, 568 
 Sweet potatoes {Batatas Ediilis, Lam.), 
 
 64, 92, 94, 136, 144, 332, 333, 369, 
 516, 517, 520, 523 ; in Zanzibar, 548 
 Symptoms of the cattle disease, 349 
 
 Taita, coffee culture started at, 730 
 tribe and language, loi 
 
 Takaungu, 2, 69, 86, 87, journey to, 
 125, 130-140, curiosity, confidence, 
 and politeness of people, 141, situa- 
 tion, 141, water supply, 141, 142, 
 population and surroundings, 142, 
 143, 144, products and prices, 143, 
 trade area, 144, lawless folk, 145, 
 wild cotton at, 147, 200, 20I ; 202, 
 development of area between this 
 place and Melindi considered, 204, 
 207, rubber of, 227, castor-oil, 229 ; 
 249, 287,318, 412 
 
 Tamarind trees ( Taniarindus indicics), 
 distribution of, 120, 121, i88, 384, 
 394, 432, trees resembling, near 
 Dodori, 424 
 
 Tamul labourers for East Afric.i desir- 
 able, 208, 209
 
 770 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Tana river, 3, navigable, 4, up to 
 Korokoro, 331, current in, 331, 
 339, 344, bar, 331, mouth, 408 
 and valley, 12, 207, jute culture, 
 236, 648, timber of, 298, ex- 
 ploring expediiion along, 310, 
 314, aspect of, 322, 323, lakes 
 near, 324-328 ; forest near, 328 ; 
 course, winding, 329, 331 ; Mr. 
 Kird-Thompson's notes on, 330- 
 338 ; connected with the Ozi, 
 331, 339, 352; inhabitants of 
 shores, 332, 333, floods, 334; 
 elephants along, 336 ; islands in, 
 337 ; an affluent of, 340 ; 346, 
 360,367,451 
 
 Tanga Island, 5 
 
 Tangave, 401, 403, 404 
 
 Tea, enjoyment of, 179, 200 
 
 Tea growing at Mbweni, etc., 545, 
 548 ; over-production generally, 628 
 
 Telegraph wire at Kilifi Bay, 146 
 
 Telephone, a primitive, 77 
 
 Tembo, or Tembo la asali (sed Toddy), 
 its effects as an intoxicantj 285, a 
 substitute, 300, made from honey, 
 
 335 
 Temperature, see Meteorology 
 Terms offered by B. E. A. Co. to the 
 
 ^Yatoro, 201 
 Thackeray, Miss, and Sir John Kirk's 
 
 garden at Mbweni, 730 
 Thompson, Bird-, his notes on the 
 
 exploration of the Tana river, 330 ; 
 
 at Witu, 346 ; 350, 351, goes with 
 
 author to the Utwani forest, 354, 
 
 355, and to Kipini, 358, farewell to, 
 
 369, 371 
 Tiede, Herr, cotton plantations of, at 
 
 Lamu, 364, 318 
 Timber {see Borities, also Silky oak), 
 floats, 225, uses, 225, 298, 331 ; that 
 of white-stemmed trees unused, 352 ; 
 of jack trees, 567 
 Time, native incapacity for realizing, 
 
 202 
 Tinnevelly, labourers from, for East 
 
 Africa, 209 
 Tobacco (A^;V^//a«rt s/>.), 13, at Melindi, 
 15, 16, foreign, to be introduced, 
 41 ; native, 48, 63 ; suitability 
 of soil for, 48, 69 ; in the Giryama 
 district, 92, 94, 97, 120, 127, 
 
 136, 138 ; of the Watoro, 123, 
 
 137, at Takaungu, 42, at Sing- 
 ula, 162 ; on the Sabaki river, 
 196, Indian labour required for, 
 209 ; 213, experimental culture 
 inoposed, 272 ; 318, started 
 by Germans, 352, 355, 360, 
 
 their experiences, 418 ; native 
 grown, 433, at Itembe and 
 Patta, 439, 466, 475 ; used by 
 the Wa-Tokomo, 335, 338 
 in Zanzibar, in the Wahadinu 
 
 country, 540, 541, 573 
 
 of B. E. A. Co., reports on, 651 ; 
 
 from the .Sabaki river, 652 ; 
 
 report on the Indian tobacco 
 
 industry, 652, on tobacco from 
 
 Borneo, etc., 653 
 
 Toddy, or temba, sources and uses, 
 
 3, 5, ^ slaves' allowance, 31 ; 41, 
 
 from the dum palm, 47, 120, from 
 
 coco-nuts, 59, 126, sugar made from, 
 
 India, 214; its eflects, used after 
 
 snake-handling, 268 ; 285, 354, 384, 
 
 toddy of Siyu, 386, 388 ; 432, used 
 
 to make bread, 472 ; not made at 
 
 Kokotoni, 524 ; its uses and names 
 
 in Zanzibar, 565 
 
 Tomatoes {Lycopersicuin esctiknltuu), 
 
 136, 162, 332, in Zanzibar, etc., 540, 
 
 547, 573 
 
 Tondo, a Bajoni village, 432 
 
 Topi, or Senegal antelope [Alcephaliis 
 senegalensis), 298, 299, 303, 402 
 
 Tost, Herr, his cotton plantations at 
 Kipini, 359-363, cost, etc., 364, 365, 
 368 ; his tobacco, 360 
 
 Totems, 106 
 
 Toyo Wabakulo, Giryama chief, inter- 
 ested in experimental cultivation, 
 
 259, 274 
 Traces of former inhabitants (see Portu- 
 guese), 443 
 Track of the cattle disease, 348 
 Travancore, coco-nut cultivation, 214, 
 
 irrigation of, 225 
 Treatment of natives, 242, 467, 502 
 Trees in relation to rainfall, 511, 512 
 Trees and plants among the Wa-Gir- 
 
 yama, 617 
 Trees suited to plant with cloves [see 
 
 Coco-nuts and Mangoes), 733 
 Tribes of B. E. A., 516, 615 
 Trichinopoly districts, labour in, 209 
 Trinidad, banana fibre of, its value, 
 571 ; climate, etc., similar to that of 
 Zanzibar, 576, rainfall and tempera- 
 ture of, 579 
 Tsetse-fly [G/ossiiia iin'isi/ans) [see 
 Ganda fly) and its congeners, local- 
 ities infested by, 355-357, animals 
 proof against, 356, effect on others, 
 357, remedial treatment, 357; animals 
 partly immune, 358 ; 434 
 Tucker, Rt. Rev. A., D.D., Bishop of 
 Uganda, 2S5, starts for Uganda, 286 
 Tula, Watiku village on island, 466
 
 INDEX 
 
 771 
 
 Tumbattu Island, alleged abode of 
 
 wizards, 522 
 Tundukwa fruit, indigenous, 395 
 Tundw a village, 384 
 Turmeric {Curcuma lougn), in Zanzibar, 
 
 574 
 Turtle, 86 
 Twining, Lieut., Iv.E., of the Railway 
 
 Survey, 199 
 Tzavo, afiluent of the Sabaki, 195 
 
 U 
 
 UCHI-MEAD, 109 
 
 Uganda, 174, 200, 285, fighting in, 
 286, Bishop Tucker starts for, 286, 
 Nubians from, 295, porters of, 300, 
 Mr. Berkeley goes to, 305, cattle 
 disease in, 348, tsetse-fly in 355, 
 'after-rains' in, 510, murder of 
 Bishop Hannington near, 605 ; pro- 
 duce, report on samples, 653, repoit 
 on coffee from, 654 ; meteorological 
 observations {see also Victoria Ny- 
 anza), 679 
 
 U-Giryama, see Giryama country 
 
 IJ-kaniba country, Lugard's stockades 
 in, 121 ; cattle disease in, 348 
 
 Ukanga, village, 368, 407, 408 
 
 Ulcers, 43, 54 
 
 Uledi, 42 
 
 Umba river, 4 
 
 ' Umbage,' or open spaces in Pemlia 
 Island, 598 
 
 ' Umbwa Amitoni,' native name for wild 
 dogs {(]. v.), 412 
 
 ' Unga' {see Maize), 185, 193 
 
 Unga village, 377 
 
 Universities Mission, its inheritance of 
 the Mbvveni experimental garden, 730 
 
 Unyoro, cattle disease in, 348 
 
 Uplands cotton experimented with, 
 361, 362, 363 
 
 Ulani plantation, 604 
 
 Utwani the india-rubber forest, 350, 
 35i> 352, 355. tsetse-fly of, 346, 358 
 
 ' Uwanga,' native name for wild arrow- 
 root, 488, 548 
 
 Uyambu village, 281 
 
 V 
 
 Vaas, Bajoni village, 125, 427 
 Vanilla, experimental culture of, 255, 
 at Mbweni, 545, on Pemba Island, 
 suited to soil, 583, 595, 609 ; wild, 
 583, 601 ; chiefly an aerial feeder, 602 
 Various samples' (of produce) brought 
 home by the Mombasa- Uganda Rail- 
 way Survey, and reported on, 653 
 
 Vegetable-marrow in Zanzibar, 548 
 Vegetables of the coast-lands, 64 ; of 
 
 Zanzibar, 548 
 Vegetation of the district explored, 
 
 coast, 2, inland, 3, upland, 4 
 Vegetation and sterility, areas of, in 
 
 Zanzibar, 509, luxuriance of, 515, 
 
 near Kokotoni, 52S, and in Pemba 
 
 Island, 589 
 Victoria Nyanza (lake), 174 ; variation 
 
 in its level, tables of, 670, 675, 676 
 Vine, poor yield of, in Zanzibar, 547 
 Viroboto, or Hyderabad soldiers, 360 
 Voi river, 282 
 Vundene, 431, 432, water of, 434 
 
 W 
 
 Waanda. or Wangvva, small barren 
 stretches in Zanzibar, 509, aspect of, 
 527, cultivation and nature of ground, 
 540, 543; Wangwa a Dunga, 542, 
 Kitowoni, 540, 541 
 Waboni district, 12, 478, 479, tribe, 
 appearance and occupations, 335, 
 336, 337, marriage customs, orna- 
 ments, drinks and weapons, 337, 
 338; also dress 481 ; their cultivation, 
 398, said not to exist, 423, 486, fruit 
 liked by, 425, trade with Rubu, 435 ; 
 shauri with, 451, gifts to head-man, 
 •452, he brings his people, 481, and a 
 guide, 482, 484, present to, 4S3 ; road, 
 485; in fear of iheWatiku, 486,495, 
 whom they serve, 489, limits of 
 their wanderings, 487, their villages, 
 489, 490, 497 ; in dread of Fumo 
 Omari, 491, 495 ; the guide, 494, a 
 malingerer, 496, fresh guides, 497, 
 paid oft", 499 
 Wacho, 99 
 
 Wachoni tribe, 162 ; are friendly, 180 
 Wa-Digo tribe, see Digo 
 Wa-Druma, slaves of the Watiku, 487 
 Wages, of askaris, 87, of labourers, 
 27. 54, 9i> of porters, high, 34. 
 44, 71, 87, 184, 185, of overseers, 
 etc., 41, 42, paid by Tost, 363 ; to 
 the naossa, of dhow, to Port Durnford, 
 439 ; in Zanzibar and Pemba, 524 ; 
 paid under Mr. Fraser, at Kokotoni, 
 522 ; in clove culture at Zanzibar, 
 559, in Pembn, 606, 607 
 Wa-Gibana tribe, 288 
 Wahadinu, or aborigines of Zanzibar, 
 510, or freed slaves, 525, locale of, 
 and characteristics, 539, their cultiva- 
 tion, 540, 541, 573 
 Wahuma, decimated in consequence ot 
 cattle disease, 348
 
 772 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Wakahoma tribe, 162, friendly, 180, 
 
 locale, 282 
 Wa-Kaniha tribe, settlements, 100, 164, 
 dialect, loi, 164, characteristics and 
 cultivation, 162, alliance with, 180, 
 selling cattle, 195, raids of, 337 
 Wa-Katwa tribe, 177, a branch of the 
 Watiku, 465, 471, slaves of the 
 Watiku, 487 
 Wake, Capt., Second in Command of 
 the Sultan's troops, 510, wounded 
 in attack on Jongeni, 502 
 Wakefield, Rev. Thomas, meteorolo- 
 gical observations by, 8 
 Wa-Kohomo tribe, their chief village, 282 
 Waloroloro tribe, 337 
 Wandamunio village, 377 
 Wanga port, 5 
 
 Wange, 393, 400, Denhardt's planta- 
 tions at, 401 ; 402, 403, 416, 417, 
 cotton of, 419, trade of, 420, 500 
 Wanika, the, and cultivation, 23, their 
 district unexplored, 24, aspect of 
 country, 44, 47 ; engaged as la- 
 bourers, 27, 43, 53, characteristics, 
 66 ; the wage question, 54, 91, desire 
 to clear bush for themselves, 54, 238, 
 improve as workers, 57, 69, their 
 willingness, 67, 72, their dislike for 
 rain, 67, sternness answers with, 67, 
 68, employed as porters, 72, their 
 friendliness and usefulness, 1 16, 
 slight trouble with, 125, slave trad- 
 ing by, 131 ; lack of water, 134; 
 155, oft-shoots of, 161 ; are agri- 
 culturists, 207, take readily to cotton 
 culture, 210, 237, 238, consider 
 author as court of appeal, 238 ; shauri 
 concerning desire to settle, 238 ; 
 successfully enlisted as labourers, 
 241, and satisfactory, 259, 264 ; a 
 village of, 285 ; converts, 287 ; the 
 one difficulty in employing them, 639 
 Wapembe, aborigines of Pemba Island, 
 
 as hired labourers, 606 
 Wa-Pokomo (see also Pokomo), a tribe 
 of fishers and hunters, 323, 324, 325, 
 337, their crops 327 ; mission to, 
 328 ; the makers of the Belesoni 
 canal, 331 ; religion and characteris- 
 tics, 332 ; slaves of the Kau Swa- 
 hali, 332 ; distribution of, along the 
 Tana, 333 ; appearance, manners and 
 customs, 332, 334, government, 
 ornaments, weapons, etc., 334 ; 
 tyrannized over by the Somalis, 335 ; 
 tastes of, 335 ; no cattle kept, 335, 
 limits of localization, 336, position 
 in relation to other tribes, 342, 352, 
 403 ; trade in salt, 346 
 
 Warkono, native camping-ground, 455 
 Wasania tribe, and hippo hunting, 99, 
 173 ; weapons, 99, 173 ; guides of, 
 116, 119; hunters, 127, 155, their 
 huts, dress and ornaments, 155; 177, 
 183, 191, their tobacco, 196, fruit 
 liked by, 304, method of extracting 
 fibre, 327 ; probably same stock as 
 Waboni, 336 
 Wasin harbour, 5 
 Wassein, 406, 415 
 Wa-Teita, slaves of the Watiku, 487 
 Waaler : back-waters forming salt-pans, 
 2, 78 ; full of fish, 82 ; usual 
 method of obtaining, 144 
 Water-ways, i, 4 
 
 Water and water supply, general 
 scarcity of water in Africa, 27, 
 314, 318, 321, 444, inconveni- 
 ences consequent thereon, 458, 
 469 ; its badness, 35 ; in Gir- 
 yama, 100, 103, 'medicine' for, 
 lOl ; swamp water, 118, 131, 
 sufferings from lack of, 132, 134, 
 scarce at Kilifi, 146, bad at 
 M'Shaka, 247, 292, good at 
 Manzai, 285, C. M. S. reservoir 
 at Rabai, 207 ; sand springs, 
 313 ; at Mattaroni, 394, effect 
 on Ozi river water of floods of 
 the Tana, 339, 344 ; graveyard 
 supply at Kau, 342, effects of 
 drinking, 346 ; good near Utwani, 
 358, good at Shaka, 360, good 
 at M'Pekatoni lake, 369, swamp 
 sources at Bomani, 370, and 
 Fungo Zombo, 371 ; good at 
 Sivatoni, 371, pool supply of, 
 at M'Kanumbi, 376, good at 
 Kilimani, 377, doubtful at Faza, 
 389, surface springs at Itembe, 
 391, good at Bere Bere lake, 
 405, Tana water good at low 
 tide, 408, plentiful near Wange, 
 419, poor at Rubu, 434, Kionga 
 dependent on Ras Kiambone, 
 441, at Kombara Bala, 445, 
 brackish at Shakalasia, 446, 
 plentiful near Buramanza, 456, 
 plentiful at Shamku, 468, and 
 Mbawe, 470, dried up at Gome 
 la Ilekwa, 468, no real scarcity 
 along coast, 470, water supply 
 of Zanzibar, 507, 513, of the 
 Chueni district, 517, of Koko- 
 toni district, 527, of Machone, 
 536, of Dunga, 539, of Jumbvi, 
 
 543 ^ 
 
 Water-buck (Kolnts £llypsiprymnjis\ 
 191, 195, 298, 393, 403, 468
 
 INDEX 
 
 773 
 
 Water-lily seeds collected, 119, 127 
 Watiku {siv Bajoni, Uuikau, c/t'.), of 
 Patta, 382 ; 422, of Ilcmbe, 427, 
 429 ; villages, 431, ^49, ruined, 462, 
 465 ; 486, of Kionga, 437 ; 444, a 
 friendly warning from, 449, opposi- 
 tion to the expedition, 464, 479, 
 their dread of Gallas, 465, distribu- 
 tion and decay of the tribe, 466 ; 
 road by coast, 468, guides, unrelialile, 
 471, more procured, 478, 479. 
 shamba customs, 476 ; agricultural 
 methods, 477, 478 ; 480, their crafti- 
 ness and domination, 482, 487, 
 decayed cultivation, 485, large slave- 
 owners, 487, their rubber-collecting 
 methods, 489, information given by, 
 on the Dodori river, 490 ; limits of 
 influence, 491, 493; in league with 
 Fumo Omari, 495, 497 
 Watoro, or runaway slaves, 119, culti- 
 vation by, 120, 121, 123 ; Lugard's 
 scheme for their complete emancipa- 
 tion, 121, shauris with, 122, 123, 
 population, 124; good workers, 124, 
 ignorance of the upper Sabaki, 
 doubtful, 126, 165, used as scouts, 
 169, trouble with, as porters, 184, 
 and concerning wages, 184, 185, en 
 route. 186, 187, 188, 192, 193 ; good 
 workmen, 190, but noisy, 191 ; 
 shauri with, on opening up Sabaki 
 district, 201, registration of, 202, 
 241, delay and cause, 241, 242 ; 
 idea abandoned, 271, and wliy, 272 
 Wa-Siyu or Wa-Palta, 385, alleged 
 
 origin, 386 ; 397, 421, 422 
 Weapons (see Arrows, and Bows and 
 Arrows), Arab, 282 ; Bajoni, 382 ; 
 Galia, 129, 131, 177, 336, 338, 465 ; 
 Giryama, 180 ; Waboni, 337, 481; 
 Wa-Pokomo, 334 ; Wasania, 99, 
 173 ; Watiku, 481 
 Weaver, J., 13, road-making, 86, 89, 
 progresses, 174, 176, 177, nearly 
 shoots author, 178, 179, 180, 183, 
 more road-making, 184, 185, 192, 
 road completed, 195, 272 ; he breaks 
 down, 199, 203, appointed assistant 
 at Magarini, 252, takes charge, 255 ; 
 does good work there, 256, 295, 
 likes the Wanika, 259, his report 
 on, 259, 260, 264 ; goes to Mombasa, 
 308, is left in sole charge of the 
 shambas, 309, 411, 412, invalided 
 to Zanzibar, 506 ; his report on the 
 coco-nut cultivation at Magarini, 633, 
 on cotton cultivation, 637, 638 
 Weights and measures: 
 Frasila, 263, 264 
 
 Gisla, 60 
 
 Kiapu, 399 
 
 Kibaba, 31 
 
 Pishi in Pemba, 607, in Zanzibar, 
 
 559 
 
 Welcome to Magarini, 292 
 
 W^ells, protection of, 67, 74 ; stone, at 
 
 Takaungu, 142, 151, with bucket 
 
 and pulley, 144 ; at Koka, 149 ; at 
 
 Aroboko, 154; deepened on the 
 
 shambas, 306 ; sinking desirable, 
 
 313, 314 ; at Kisanga. 341, 344, at 
 
 Shaka, 390, at Sivatoni, 371, at Kili- 
 
 mani, 377, bad at Kisingitini, 383 ; 
 
 at Siyu, 385 ; wells in river-bed at 
 
 Homwe, 436 ; at Ras Kiambonc, 344 
 
 Weruni, or veld-land of Giryama, 99, 
 
 districts in, lOO 
 West Indies, solution of labour difficulty 
 in, 550, parallels of temperature 
 etc., with those of Zanzibar, 551, 
 552 
 clove culture in, 732 
 coffee exported from, 628 
 sisal hemp in, 576, 577 
 sugar culture in, 570 
 Wet weather joys, 166, 169, 179, 193, 
 
 427, 488 
 Weti, 252, and its Liwali, 587, his 
 views on copra, 608 ; described, 588, 
 environs inspected, 589-591, rain- 
 " fall, 593, cultivation near, 595, 596- 
 605, clove culture and labour diffi- 
 culty, 607 
 Wheat of B. E. Africa, report on, 
 
 653 
 
 Wheeled traffic, needed, 89, one form 
 introduced, 347 
 
 Wild-fowl, duck, 44, geese, 127 
 
 Wild pigs, numerous in the Wahadinu 
 country, 539, 541, dangerous to 
 indianibber, 571 
 
 Wilson, D. , B. E. A. Co.'s officer at 
 Melindi, 157, 169, 171, 179, 277 
 
 Wimbe [see Raggy) 
 
 Wind-belts, value of, 563 
 
 Winds, prevailing, 9 
 
 Wiori river, 464 
 
 Witchcraft and wizardry, in (jiryama, 
 106 ; at Mombasa, 600 ; in Tumbattu 
 Island, 522 ; of the Wahadinu, 539 ; 
 among the Watoro, 243, 244 
 
 Witu (see Fumo Omari), fertile, 5, 
 wind observations at, 9, humidity, 
 10, 12, Indian police at, 41 ; people 
 threaten Jelori, 179, 180, 188, a 
 false alarm, 183 ; raids by people 
 of, 332 ; exploration of district, 300, 
 314, 318, aspect of environs, 345, 
 35o> 352, 353. 355, 358, 375, British
 
 774 
 
 INDEX 
 
 take over tlie protecloratc, 535, 
 tsetse-Hy in 356, 357 ; 360, 365, 
 telcgrapli-linc Ihence to Laniu, 371, 
 to Monil^asa, 378 ; outlet for produce 
 
 of, 375. 3^7^ 401, 501 
 Women (scr also Slaves), the havoc 
 wrought on nianlund by, accortling 
 to (Jiryama legend, 107, posiiion of, 
 in this race, 1 13 ; liandshake of the 
 Watoro, 124 ; headgear of the Wasa- 
 
 "i^, 155 
 \\'ornis, intestinal, in sheep, cured by 
 salt-bush feed, 248, in game and 
 cattle, where salt is rare, 350 
 
 YAI30GI village, 384 
 Yams, 523, in Zanzibar, 548 
 Year, the Giryama, ill; the Persian, 113 
 Yucatan, the home of vSisal hemp, 577, 
 719, 721 
 
 Z 
 
 Zanzibar, town and island {sec aho 
 Kirk, Mbweni and Sultans), meteoro- 
 logical observations at, temperature, 
 rainfall, etc., 10, 510, 51 1, 512, 513, 
 55I) 552, 579; spice, etc., of, 12, 
 41, 255, timber trade of, 81, trade in 
 orchella weed, 83, ten-mile slave 
 zone, 121 ; copal of, 153, expedition 
 to, starts, 244 ; the equivalent of the 
 frasila at, 264 ; coco-nuts of, grown 
 near the sea, 344 ; cattle disease as 
 affecting, 348, 349 ; 379, coral lime 
 
 trade, 388; 415, seat of justice, 440; 
 501, described, S^S^S'S) geogra|)hicai 
 position and importance, 507, irriga- 
 tion at, 507, 579 ; geological forma- 
 tion, -508 ; vegetation, 509, of sur- 
 roundings, 515 ; inhabitants, 509, 
 539, and ]5opulation, 510 ; water 
 supply, 513 ; price of copra, 523, 
 prices of coco-nuts at, 524 ; average 
 life of clove tree in, 535, 557 ; 540, 
 543. good roads near, 554, 566, culti- 
 vation, agriculture and chief [iroducts, 
 547, 54S, 549, labour difficulty, posi- 
 tion of, 549, 550, fertility, 551, agri- 
 cultural possil)ilities, soil, etc., 552, 
 injurious methods employed by native 
 cultivators, 552, clove cultivation in, 
 553, annual export of cloves, 554, 560, 
 561, methods of cultivation, 554-560; 
 implements of clove culture, 556; 
 alleged nutmeg culture, 608 ; price 
 given for slaves, 610 
 
 Zanzibar 'red-heads' (cloves), 560 ; 
 Sultans, .ffi'Seyd Parghash rt;/(/Seyyid 
 Ali l)in Said ; weights and measures, 
 sec Frasila, Pishi, etc. 
 
 Zebras, 81, 321, proof against tsetse- 
 
 .fly, 356 
 
 Zimberao tree {Eugenia iiialaccensis), 
 distribution of, near Dunga, 540, 
 547, in ^Veti, 588, 592 
 Ziwah (meaning lalce), 324 
 Zivvah la Feruzi, lake or swamp, 87 
 Zoological Gardens, London, ]iuff- 
 
 adcler sent to, 268 
 Zulu myth of the origin of death, 107 
 
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