$B MDh tiMT THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID JORDAN AND THE KHINE ; \t nBt m)i t\t SSest. FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN SYRIA, FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN GERMANY. BY THK REV. WILLIAM GEAHAM, IffTovQ XptoToc x^^C '^^'- <^i]fipov o avTOQ, KOI eIq tovq alutyaQ. "RRALLKTN! ERUBRRAI.L! ER IMMEB ! ' LONDON: PARTRIDGE, OAKEY, AND CO., 34, PATERNOSTER ROW ; AND 70, EDGWARE ROAD. 1854. 'ADDINGTON. TO MY WIFE, THE FAITHFUL PARTNER OF ALL MY JOYS AND SORROWS, BOTH IN THE EAST AND THE WEST, THIS BOOK IS, WITH DEEP THANKFULNESS TO GOD FOR HIS GIFT, PREFACE. I, The name of my book is intended to symbolise the two great divisions of the human race, whose customs, manners, and civilisation are so different from one another. The Jordan is associated with the deepest, holiest feeKngs of our nature, and is interwoven with the religion, the psalmody, and the devotion of the whole Christian world; it is the river of sacred story, on whose banks have been transacted the greatest events recorded in the history of our race the redemption of mankind, and the wars of the Crusades. How instructive the voice of its waters ! Judaism, Christianity, and Islam are at home on the Jordan. And oh, how various the events, how wonderful and glorious the chain of Divine Providence, ever one, though diverse and many-coloured as the rainbow which bespans the world. How numerous the sages and wise men, the kings, priests, and prophets, the saints, warriors, and heroes, who, from Melchisedec the King of Salem, to Gobat the Bishop of Jerusalem, have illustrated history and glorified or degraded humanity on the banks of the Jordan ! But the Rhine ! The Rhine is, without doubt, the noblest, most cele- brated, and most historical river of the West. It lives in the thousand legends of the olden times of brave knights, fair ladies, and enchanted castles ; it is nanjed in the ten thousand patriotic songs of Fatherland ; it is synonymous with many healthful and delicious wines ; and, from the legions of Varus to those of Napoleon, it has been associated with the victories and defeats of the Roman empire. It is, therefore, a suitable companion for the Jordan, and shall be associated with the fortunes of my book. II. The form ? Answer : I choose the form of Chapters and Journals, because I wish free scope for my thoughts. I wish to use all things what I have read, what I have seen, and what I have heard reason, imagination, and reflection. I would use history, philosophy, and religion; the customs and laws of nations ; criticism, poetry, and superstition ; every- thing that comes in the way of a man who has travelled much and read more. I would use it all for the objects which I have in view in this book. III. What are these objects ? The illustration and defence of the Word of God. This is the main object of the author, and he would direct the attention of the reader to the Chapter on the Customs connected with the human body especially, to the Journals on the Rationalism of Grermany, and to the general spirit of the whole, as confirming this assertion. Again, I seek to give the British nation a true and exact description of Orientalism. This is no book of travels ; it is a book of life. It is not the record of what I passed through, but of what I lived in. How many books of travels have appeared since I went to Damascus ! And most of them owe all that they contain about Damascus to the missionaries, or the scanty information of muleteers. It must be so. A tra- veller arrives in that city, he has no friend in it, knows not a word of the language, his interpreter, too, can neither trans- late nor put together correctly a single sentence ; how can he know anything of the people ? He is asked to spend a day with the missionaries ; he accepts the invitation, pumps them thoroughly ; and, in the forthcoming book of travels, Damascus occupies a conspicuous place ! My aim is difierent, and I hope my qualifications also. I refer the reader to the Chapter on " An Oriental City as it is," and beg him to com- pare it with what he may have read on the same subject. As to the Journals, my object is to give my fellow-countrymen an idea of Germany as it is ^the black and the white the faith and infidelity the prodigious labours, and the still more prodigious imagination of that plodding philosophical race. The subjects are miscellaneous, and were suggested by the occurrences of the day, or the quiet meditations of the evening. Those who expect to find in Journals nothing but the simple records of mental experiences, wiU probably find little pleasure in mine, inasmuch as they take in a much wider range. They include glances at the hidden life of faith in the soul, and the outward hopes of the church and the creation the obstinacy and the inveterate infidelity of the Jews, as well as God's purposes in them ^the great apostacy, which is the Papacy, and the man of sin which is its head, as well as the coming of the Lord to destroy them the state of Popery and Protestantism in Germany ^the German theories of reasoning, rationalism, and inspiration their philosophies, their poetry, and their history, as well as the peculiarities of their social and domestic life. There is, also, an occasional reference to the East, inasmuch as the impressions which it made on me remain indelible, and occupy no small portion of my heart. There is no lack of variety, and I can only lament my inability to do justice to such vast and varied materials. lY. But it is asked. What do you think of Turkey and the present war ? My dear friend, the question involves many others, and to answer them all fully would require a volimie. We are willing, however, to consider a few of the most im- portant of them, giving our opinion in the briefest manner 1. What is meant by the Turkish Government ? It means the Government of the House of Othman, in Constantinople, over kingdoms and provinces acquired by plunder and con- quest. Tlie Turks are a small horde of warlike barbarians, wbo for centuries have subjected to their power Christians, Jews, and Moslems. Their dominion is not merely that of one religion over another, but also of one nation over many nations. The Egyptians, Syrians, and Greeks, be they Moslems, Christians, or Jews, detest the Turks as foreign conquerors and oppressors. The Turkish Government in Damascus is as foreign, and detested as the French Government in Berlin was. Everything shows the rule of a stranger. The Pasha, and his clique from Constantinople, speak Turkish, while Arabic is the language of the people ; therefore, his commands, his edicts, his courts of justice, must be administrated by agents and interpreters. A few years ago, the Damascenes rose up and burned the palace of their Pasha, as a proof of their detestation of foreign tyranny. 2nd. Is there religious liberty in the Turkish empire ? Among certain classes there is, and the principle is making progress. It is a fact that there is a great body of Protes- tants in the empire, and their numbers and influence are increasing rapidly, and to them we mu^t look for the true principles of religious liberty. A Protestant missionary labouring among Jews and Christians has more liberty in the Turkish empire than in any other country, save England, America, and Belgium. You may labour in Damascus abxm- dantly among Jews, Papists, and Greeks ; they are all equally dogs and swine, though of a different aspect and colour, and whether a few of them change their colour or not, makes no difference in the mind of the Moslem ruler. But touch not the true believer at your peril ! The Moslem who changes his religion must, by the law of the Koran, die the death, and he shall die to this day with infallible certainty, notwith- standing all the rumours and plaudits that have been raised about the religious liberties of the East. In this respect the Moslems are as much persecutors by principle as the Papists themselves. The Pope, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and the Commander of the Faithful, are of one mind in this matter. I now, therefore, put the question to the British nation and government, " Is it lawful for a Moslem to become a Chris- tian in the Turkish empire ? Is he sure of his life and pro- perty if he does ? " I assert that to this hour both these questions must be answered in the negative ; and now is the time, when our fleets and our armies are propping up the tottering throne of the Osmanlis, to secure in its fullest ex- tent the great principle of religious liberty. We must do it, or it will never be done ; Russia will not guarantee liberty of worship ; she is tyrannical in church and in state a fierce, a murderous persecutrix of the truth of God as well of as all dissentients from the established religions. 3rd. What is meant by maintaining the integrity of the Turkish empire ? Nothing whatever. It is high-sounding verbiage. To keep the Russians out of Constantinople is another matter, and we know what it means. The integrity of the Turkish empire ! Where is it ? The French claim the right of protecting the Papists, the Emperor of Russia claims the right of protecting the members of the Greek church, and we have established a consul at Damascus to pro- tect the Jews ! Yet these are all subjects of the Porte ! Has not every consid and consular agent (and their name is legion), even from the pettiest kingdoms of Europe, the right to protect all their servants and employees from all kinds of taxation and government control ? Is not every European of whatever name, and all who can in any way claim to be Jus servants, were it only by sweeping his court once a year, exempted by positive treaties from the taxation and control of the Turkish government ? This may be all right and neces- sary, but it is not like independence, and without independence it will not long retain its integrity. The integrity of the Turkish empire ! We, the English, have dismembered it, and shoidd other circumstances arise we would, without com- punction, dismember it more and more. Who gave Greece its independence ? We did so, by dismembering the empire of the Osmanlis ; Egypt is nearly independent, and we made it so. Are we not by a kind of quiet prescription establishing our right to the navigation of the Euphrates ? Would it be any dismemberment of the empire were England on certain terms to become masters of Egypt ? By no means. The Pasha pays the Porte a certain number of purses annually, &c. ; now were we to provide for the Pasha as we do for the princes in India, would the Porte not as willingly receive the purses from us as from him ? Undoubtedly ; and his High- ness would be more regularly paid. For more than a century the Turks have been receding before the civilisation and warlike power of the West ; nor should it cause us many regrets if their empire was entirely broken. But 4th. Is it not possible to regenerate the Turkish nation by making them a great reforming, progressing, civiKsing king- dom ? I think it nearly impossible. (1.) Their religion is opposed to progress, and must be overthrown in the first place. (2.) Then the vigour and force of the Turks lie in fanaticism alone ; if this is inflamed and strengthened they are invincible. If you fanaticise them, civilisation is impos- sible ; if you destroy their fanaticism, the foundation of their empire is destroyed. (3.) The Turks are a small minority of the population, and have been so long accustomed to domineer over all others, that they never will, in my opinion, voluntarily submit to civil equality with the other nations and religions. They will submit only to the conqueror, as they do in India. (4.) Besides, the Christians are still subjected to double taxa- tion ; all the offices of state are filled with Moslems ; and the imperial armies, under the standard of, the prophet, must be taken exclusively from the dominant religion. These are some of the impediments which stand in the way of Turkish progress and civilisation, and till I see other reasons than I have yet seen, I must believe them to be insurmountable. 5th. But what are to be the issues of the war ? God alone knows, and we can commit our ways only to Him, as the Redeemer of His church and the Governor among the nations. It is possible that the threatened wars and commotions may be only the precursors of the King and the kingdom of righteousness and peace. The eye of the church has been opening of late to the glories of the millennial kingdom, and we cannot desire too earnestly that the fond aspirations of those students of prophecy may be true who look forward to the speedy coming of Christ in His glory. But apart from the prophetic hopes which sustain us in the season of adversity, it may be well to consider the human probabilities which seem to arise out of the present political combinations. It is probable, if in the decrees of God the hour of Turkey be not come, that the allies may prop up the government and post- pone the overthrow of the empire for eighty or one hundred years ; it bears, however, the death- wound in itself, and in due time it shall be overthrown or break up of its own accord. It is melancholy that in the present war the Turks are in the right and the Russians are in the wrong the enemies of our Lord Jesus Christ are the defenders of treaties and the laws of nations, and the professors of Christianity the violators of both ! But He was betrayed to the Jewish rulers by one of His friends ! It is painful and very grievous that justice and the force of circumstances should have made it necessary for England to defend the Turks. But we are acting out our part in the great drama of history, and are no doubt, as a nation, under the leading of Divine Providence. It seems strange, however, that the most Protestant nation in the world should be at the present moment so unequivocally favouring the pretensions of Popery, and that the most Christian nation on earth should be preventing the destruc- tion of the mortal enemies of the gospel. France and England are now united ; and it seems likely, though contrary to our institutions, our character, and our history, that political combinations may make aristocratic England the patron of democracy and rebellion throughout the world. If the war becomes general, and the Continental courts league themselves against us, the conflagration will encompass the world, and it is impossible to anticipate what the end may be. In a bloody and prolonged struggle the principles of self-defence may compel us to side with nations against their princes, until, in the wars of classes the many against the few, the deceived and trampled upon against their tyrannical deceivers ^the demon of revolution shall have shaken every kingdom on the Continent. The spirit of revolt shall proceed from conser- vative England and inflame aU the nations of the world. Our ships shall touch the shores of Italy, and a few procla- mations about unity, liberty, and independence shall set the Peninsula in a blaze. A million of warriors and liberators shall in less than three months, under the protection of France and England, rise up against their tyrants in the Italian plains. The Pope, more detested than all other sovereigns, shall leave Rome to return no more ; the tyrant of Tuscany, dethroned and banished, shall find a refuge in the British isles ; the hated dominion of Austria in that classic country shall fall, and Italy, regenerated and united, shall take her place among the nations of the earth. Meanwhile our agents and our money have reached the ancient kingdom of Hungary there is hope held out to the oppressed ! there are leaders to guide the movement, and money to pay the ti'oops ! It is enough. The repressed nationality springs into existence, and five millions of heroic men, long oppressed by the House of Hapsburg, proclaim their independence and war to the death against their oppressors. Austria shall have enough to do without sending armies against the Turks. It is not im- possible that she may sink in the struggle, and it is impossible that a worse system of oppression should rise up in her stead. But Poland ! yes, Poland, partitioned by her neighbours, has heard that England and France are at war with her enemies and oppressors, and the spirit of that heroic nation, which more than once saved Europe from barbarism and Islam, shall burst forth into fearful conflagration. Two words, one from France and another from England, would reunite fifteen millions of men, who have a country, heroic valour, and a historic name ! There will be work for Russia at Warsaw as weU as beyond the Danube. But would England, the friend of the oppressed and the bulwark of order, liberty, and justice, unchain the demon of democracy to overturn the stable foun- dations of the whole social edifice, and cover the civilised world with anarchy and blood? Answer: England will shrink from nothing necessary to preserve her existence ; and there are many mighty spirits in her who would willingly do the work in the name of liberty and a righteous retri- butive Providence. It must and wiU come to this, if the Continental powers join Russia and the war becomes long and bloody. Such is the position of England, and the force of political circumstances will not allow her to shrink from it. 5th. But what if Russia should succeed in the war ? The consequences would be many, of which I may mention the following : (1.) All the movements of liberty and progress which are beginning to take place in the Orient would be arrested ; the Turks are, on the whole, as civilised as the Russians, and latterly have become more tolerant to those who differ with them on the subject of religion. (2.) The taking of Constantinople would not advance Christianity so much as many think ; the Turks would still remain, and the sword is no justifiable means of conversion. (3.) It would destroy the independence of Greece. (4.) It would seriously endanger our Indian possessions, and give the Russians the means of becoming the first maritime power in the world. (5.) It would deliver the Christians from cruel masters, who have long insulted and plundered them, but it woidd probably give them harder masters under the Christian name. Never- theless, I have no doubt the Oriental Christians would wish the Russians to succeed in the present struggle. (6.) It would not augment the power of Russia so much as is imagined, inasmuch as she would have ten milKons of enemies as a thorn in her side, and it seems impossible for any government to tmite and harmonise so many different nations and languages. Besides, if the Turldsh Empire were broken up, Russia could not appropriate aU the spoil. England would make arrangements with the Imperial house of Otto- man for Syria and Egypt at least, while France and Austria would, in self-defence, seize their portions of the plimder. 6th. But what about the Greek nation ? There are still five millions who speak the language of Homer and Herodotus, who also inherit the pride, subtlety, and valour of their fathers, and who might be supposed to act a conspicuous part in the bloody drama of Oriental history. This people, if united under one head, and resolute to re-assert their ancient glory, might turn the scale between the contending parties, and sfe- establish in the nineteenth century the throne of Constantine. They have also a better right to Constantinople than the Turks ; and could a strong independent Christian empire be established on theBosphorus, it would be for religion, civilisation, and tbe progress of the human race, one of the most glorious events of history. Are the Greeks capable of this ? I doubt it very much. The Greeks are not fully independent, and they are divided into many parties, who hate each other cordially. There is an English party, a French party, a Russian party, and the protecting powers who guarantee their national existence have become the means of diminishing the national force. No doubt there is a large body of Greeks in Greece, and elsewhere, who long for the restoration of the Byzantine Empire, and who consider this the best way of arresting the ambitious steps of Russia. These are enthusiasts, and deceive themselves. Every movement of the Greeks at the present moment, and in their weakness and divisions, can be only ruinous to the nation, and the Russian agents who are so busy with their promises and their gold, may be the means of breaking the kingdom to pieces. - Let us hope that Greece may yet arise from the dust of its present ruins ! And that the future may bear some resemblance to the glory of the past ! In the meantime we must await the decisions of Divine Providence with patience and hope. "We know there is a righteous Ruler over the nations, who can turn the hearts of men like the rivers of water to run into the ocean-current of His purpose of love. The threads of the wondrous web of providence centre in His throne ; and however perplexed and entangled the events of history may appear to the dim eye of reason, they are all subordinated to the will of our Father who is in heaven. CONTENTS. ^t |0tkn. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. r I. Differences between the East and the West in general. II. Soir.e of the chief Causes of these Diversities, viz. : 1st. The Influence of the Pulpit; 2nd. The Press ; 3rd. The Bar; 4th. Steam, Eoads, Means of Communication ; 5th. Union, Societies ; Cth. Religious and Politi- cal Liberty. III. Distinguishing and attractive Peculiarities of the Land : 1st. It is the Land of Antiquities ; 2nd. It is the Land of Literature ; 3rd. It is the Land of Great Wars ; 4th. It is the Land of the Bible ; 5th. It is the Land of Prophecy; 6th. It is the Land of a peculiar People and of peculiar Promises CHAPTER II. :. Illustrations of Scripture : 1st. General Observations ; 2nd. The House of the Forest of Lebanon; 3rd. The Cedars of Lebanon; 4th. The Sides of Lebanon ; 5th. The Roots of Lebanon ; 6th. The Violence of Lebanon; 7th. The Glory" of Lebanon; 8th. "The Skin of the Teeth " Dlustrated. II. The Inhabitants of Lebanon : First, The Maronites ; Second, The Greeks. The Two Parties compared : 1st. As to Literature; 2nd. As to Secular Employments; 3rd. As to Preparatory Training ; 4th. As to Character in General. Monastic Institutions considered : 1. As to unnatural Crimes ; 2. As to Piety and Charity; 3. In Reference to Civilisation. III. The Druses of Mount Lebanon particularly described. IV. Various particulars : 1st. The Eoads ; 2nd. The Terraces ; 3rd. The Animals ; 4th. The Villages and Houses 23 b XVlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. BAALBEK. Introduction; General Scenery: I. The Walls; The Stones; The Quarry. Who built Them ? II. The Temples : 1st. The Little Tem- ple described. 2nd. The Temple of the Sun described. 3rd. The Polytheon described. III. An historical sketch of Baalbek. IV. Ee- flections : 1st. The permanent Character of Localities ; 2nd. The partiality of History ; 3rd. The strength of Eeligious Convictions ; 4th. National Character; 5th. An Evening Scene ...... 50 CHAPTER IV. DAMASCUS. AN EASTERN AND A WESTERN CITY COMPARED. 1st. As seen from above; 2nd. As to Smoke and Clouds; 3rd. The Approach to tlie City described ; 4th. Suburbs, ViUas, single Houses ; 5th. Life, motion, stir, business, confusion; 6th. "The laying out and disposition of the City; 7th. Compared as to Hotels and Public Build- ings; 8th. As to Literature, Books, Paintings, Fine Arts, &c. ; 9th. As to Knowledge, current Literature, Newspapers, &c. ; 10th. Com- pared as to public Amusements ; 11th. The Veiled Ladies ; 12th. A Peep into the Streets of Damascus 07 CHAPTER V. THE CITY OF DAMASCUS AS IT IS. The City of Damascus described exactly as it is : I. The Walls. II. The general Plan of the City. III. The Streets : 1. Their Dirt ; 2. The Dogs ; 3. The Varieties and Extremes in the Streets ; 4. A strange Scene in the Streets ; 5. Everything public in the Streets. IV. The Houses: 1. The Materials; 2. General Plan and Purpose; 3. The Doors, Keys, &c. ; 4. The Court ; 5. The Rooms ; 6. The Harem ; 7. The Roofs ; 8. The Baths / 86 CHAPTER VI. THE JEWISH MISSION IN DAMASCUS. A. The Origin of the Mission: I. The Claims of the Jews; II. The Mis- sion proposed. B. Missionary Difficulties; I. The Language; II. The Habits of the People ; III. The Climate ; IV. Corrupt Christi- anity; V. Civil Government; VI. Family Difficulties; VII. Jewish Fanaticism ; VIII. The Missionary is Alone ; IX. Much is expected from a Missionary ; X. What Converts have you made ? C. Missionary Labours; What are they? I. Acquiring the Language ; II. Preaching the Word; III. The Distribution of Books ; IV. Intercourse with the Jews; V. The Use of the Press; VI. Schools. D. Missionary Suc- cess : I. Among the Jews ; 1. Great Movement among the Jews ; 2. Noble specimens of Converted Jews; II. Among the Heathen; 1. The Noble Nature of the Enterprise ; 2. Have the Missioriaries found Access to the People ? 3. Special Examples given; 4. The American Board of Missions ; 5. Subsidiary Objects CHAPTER VII. CUSTOMS OF THE ORIENTALS CONNECTED WITH DRESS AND THE HUMAK BODY. A. General Observations on Dress, and the Differences between the East and the West regarding it. I. The Orientals require less of it than we do. II. The Nature of the Garments is different. III. They do not Change their Garments as we do. IV. They Dress more richly than we do. V. Oriental Tailoring described. VI. Dress a Charac- teristic of the Human Eace. VII. Garments Tj'pical : Coloiu^; 1. White; 2. Black; 3. Green; 4. Blue; 5. Purple; 6. What Colour prevails in Damascus. VIII. Two Garments generally necessary. B. The various Parts of Dress described as at present worn in Damascus; Customs; Illustrations of Scripture. I. The feet; 1. The Foot-di-ess described; 2. Sandals and Shoes distinguished; 3. Laying off the Shoes ; its various Significations. II. The Loins ; 1. Trousers, Breeches, Pantaloons, Sherwal ; 2. The Girdle or Zinnar described ; 3. The Uses of the Girdle. III. The Breast, Shoulder, Arms, and Neck; 1. Customs connected with the Bosom ; 2. Customs connected with the Shoulder; 3. Customs connected with the Arm ; the Bare Arm ; Tattooing on the Arms ; Ornaments for the Arms. IV. The Hand ; 1. Peculiar meaning of the word Hand in the East; 2. Kissing the Hand; 3. Laying the Hand on what they Swear by; 4. Striking with the Hand; 5. No Gloves used in the East; 6. Saluting with the Hand; 7. Washing the Hands ; 8. The Eight Hand more Honourable than the Left; 9. Dyeing or Staining the Hands. V. The Head 1st. The Head-dresses described; 2nd. The Hair; I. Shaven-off; 2. Denotes fierce Passion ; 3. Anointing the Hair ; 3rd. The Beai'd 1. Uses of the Beard ; the History and Practice of Shaving ; 2. Swear ing by the Beard; 3. Dyeing the Beard; 4th. The Eyes; various Customs described ; 5th. The Face ; Ear-rings, and Nose Jewels ; various Practices connected with them : 6th. The Veil ; Varieties, Nature and Uses 142 |0ttrnal at t|^ f pM. JANUAEY. I. The Angels' Song. II. Blessed be His glorious Name. III. The German Christmas Tree. IV. Bernard's Hymn. V. Modem Deists. VI. Jesus the Home of the Heart. VII. The Majesty and Perfections of God. VIII. Transfiguratio. IX. Where is He to be found? X. The Protestants of Hungary. XI. The Persecution of the Madiai. Marks of the True Church. XII. A Letter from Hungary. XIII. "Ov TE deoi (^CKiovoL veavlffKog reXevrjJ. XIV. The Fruitful Vine, XV. Architecture. XVI. Tracts. XVII. Questions for the Pope . . 199 FEBRUAEY. I. The Protestants of Hungary. II. The Prophetic Aspect of Christ's Ministry. III. 'Apvlov 'A/jlvoq ItfUD- IV. The Character of the Ancient Komans. V. German Professors ; their Character. VI. Jesus the Ark of the Soul. VII. 'AyaTrr;; Questions for the Pope. VIII. 'O vtoQ TOv 'AvOporrrov ; the Brother. IX. De Nativitate Domini 226 MARCH I. G. G. Gervinus. II. Thoughts on Missions. III. To the Memory of my Son Edward ; 1. Notice; 2. Wandering Thoughts ; 3. Medi- tation and Prayer; 4. He is not Dead but Sleepeth A Hymn; 5. Submission A Hymn, Heb. xii. 10 ; 6. Jesus the Life ; the Eevealer a Hymn; 7. The Elder-Brother, Heb. ii. 14, 15 ; 8. Edward ; 9. The East ; Associations. IV. Walk in Love. V. The Week's Work. VI. Scripture Illustrations. VII. The Pope's Love to his Neighbour. A True Story. VIII. The Heavenly Mansions, John xiv. 2, 3. IX. Olivet; a Look after Christ. X. The Apocrypha; its Errors. XI. The Ringing of Bells. XII. Titles of Honour; a Supper Party. XIII. Longing after Jesus. XIV. The Grievous Wound. XV. Good Friday; 1. A Popish Custom; 2. The Lord's Supper; 3. Solemn Thoughts; 4. Hymnus Paschalis. XVI. The Tomb of Christ. XVII. Travelling; National Characteristics. XVIII. The Jews; Recapitulation. XIX. The Darkness before the Dawn a Hymn. . 24r. APRIL. I. Arabic Rhymes for my Son; 1. For the Lord's Day; 2. Morning Hymn ; 3. For taking Medicine ; 4. Memorial Rhymes. II. The Arabic Language ; Poetry ; the Oriental Imagination. III. Old Asso- ciations. IV. Coin; Prayer Meeting, Popery. V. Brussels. VI. Waterloo. VII. The Ascension. VIII. Mysteries of Nature ; Elec- tricity ; the Force of "WUl. IX. The Spirit helpeth our Infirmities. X. Questions for the Pope. XL Saturday Evening; Reflections. XII. God is Love. XIII. Ministry, SiaKovia. XIV. 'O Xdyot,- tov aravpov. XV. The Coming Glory, a Song. John xiv. 3 287 MAY. I. " O that tlie salvation of Israel were come out of Zion." II. Adora- tion. III. The Protestant Church on the Rhine. IV. A Jewish Prayer for the Royal Family of England. V. On Liturgies in the Church. VI. E/'pj/yTj vfup. VII. Jewish Objections; the Unity of God. VIII. German Students ; Character ; A Song. IX. The Little While. X. UevTTiKoaTri. XL The Conversion of the Jews. XII. Augustine's Paradise. XIII. A Morning on the Lebanon. XIV. Cru- elty to Animals ; the Lament of the Hare in 1575. XV. Jewish Objec- tions ; the Prince of Peace. XVI. A Letter to a Roman Catholic ; 1. Lies ; 2. The Bible ; 3. Tyranny. XVII. From Nature up to Nature's God. XVIII. The Little ChUdand the Father. XIX. Jesus at the right hand of God 315 JUNE. I. Early Love to Christ. II. The Jews ; Objections. III. Advice to a Young Minister. IV. 'O Geoe Kal Uarrip. V. The Rhine. VI. The Living Temple. VII. Thoughts on Turkey and the Turks. VIII. Ta k\Tri(6}xtva, "Things hoped for." IX. Freethinking among the Jews. X. Arabic Anecdotes 359 JULY. I. The Tempter. Matt. iv. 112. II. Antichristian Ehymes. III. Morning Prayer. IV. Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est. V. Superstition and Infidelity. VI. Jewish Objections. VII. On reading the Life of Arnold. VIII. Dark Days. IX. Magnitudes and Distances. X. Christian Joy. XI. The Mass and the Night Journey. XII. Traditions ; Priestly Power. XIII. The Bible a Divine Song. 383 AUGUST. 1. My God. II. 'O KoafiOQ vfxac fxiffel. III. German Students; Parting Scene. IV. Jewish Objections. V. Dl7li^""1li^, the Prince of Peace. VI. Mm Troifivrj, One Flock. VII. Calvary. VIII. The Meeting of Friends. IX, Polygamy in the East. X. The Female Character in the East. XI. Religious and Political Changes in the East; Hopes. XII. Exegesis; or, the Ass eating Thistles. XIII. Love-tokens. XIV. Longing after God. XV. A Letter to Pope Pius IX.; the Holy Scriptures. XVI. Germany; Peculiarities; Various Particulars 407 SEPTEMBEK. I. The Jews ; Stumbling-blocks. II. God is Near ! III. A Peep into a German Meeting. IV. Faith and Opinions. V. The Countess of Wieland The blessings of the Bible. VI. What are the Character- istics of the Age? Politically: 1. The Yielding of Old Principles; 2. Democracy ; 3. The Turkish Empire ; 4. Gog and Magog ; 5. The Three Leavens; 6. The Eeconstructed Image. Ecclesiastically we have 1. The Missionary Spirit ; 2. The Two Poles or Parties ; 3. The Papal Aggression ; 4, The Study of Prophecy. VII. 'ETrra TTVEVfiara, Seven Spirits. IX. 'AyuTr?) tov TrvEVfxaTOg, the Love of the Spirit. X. An Oriental Scene ; the Blessings of Polygamy. XI. KaraTravaie, the Rest. XII. The Hebrew Language. XIII. The Dignity of Human Nature 44fi OCTOBER. T. Wylie on the Papacy, in German. II. H ayairr) rov Xpiffrov (Tvvi-)^Ei iifxoLQ, " Constraining Love, " 2 Cor. v. 14. The Pilgrim's Song. III. The Jews ; Jewish Pecuharities. IV. What is Faith ? V. Characters in the same Church Dean Swift and Dr. Pusey. VI. For whom did Christ die? Scripture Expressions. VII. Prussian Patriotism, Oct. 18th. VIII. 'O 6eoc i(TTiv ayaitr}. IX. Jewish Interpretations, Genesis xlix. 10. X. Eejoicing in the Lord. XI. Whom have I in heaven but Thee? XII. Loca Sancta; First Im- pressions ; a Hymn. XIII. Why do I reject the Authority of the Pope ? A Letter to a Romanist. XIV. Prayer 488 NOVEMBER. I. The Doctrine of the Adyoe in both Covenants. II. The New Life in the German Churches its Causes : 1. The Destruction of Eation- alism ; 2. A Better Ministry ; 3. Missions ; 4. The King ; 5. Demo- cracy ; 6. The Kirchentag. III. 'H afiweXog f/ aXridivr), the True Vine. John xv. IV. German Literature Difficulties. V. The Rain and the Thu-sty Ground A Hymn. VI. The Philosophical Ten- dencies of the 18th Century 615 DECEMBER. I. Angelology ; or, Thoughts on the Holy Angels. Objections Answered ; 1. The name, ' AyyeXog, and its applications ; 2. What do we know of Angels ? 3. Objections to the Doctrines of Angels ; 4 Various Questions concerning Angels. II. Klopstock : his Character and Poetry. III. The Sighing of the Soul after Jesus. IV. Inspiration ; German Notions. V. Wieland. VI. German Celebrity ; Learned Men and Critics. VII. A Short Conversation on the Question, " Is it not* possible to teach Theology profitably ?" VIII. The Pilgrim's Wants and the Pilgrim's Song. IX. Dec. 25th, the Birth of Christ; 1. Prophecy and Promise ; 2. Offices ; 3. All Varieties meet in the Manger. X. Are the Jews under a Curse? XL Hope; a Hymn. XII. A Wish 535 %\t l^rkii I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. II. THE LEBANON. III. BAALBEK. IV. DAMASCUS. V. DAMASCUS AS IT IS. VI. THE JEWISH MISSION IN DAMASCUS. VII. DRESS, AND THE HUMAN BODY. THE JOEDAN. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. I. DiiFerences between the East and West in general. II. Some of the chief causes of these diversities, viz. : 1st. The Influence of the Pulpit ; 2nd. The Press; 3rd. The Bar; 4th. Steam,Eoads, Means of Commimication; 5th. Union, Societies ; 6th. EeUgious and Political Liberty. III. Distin- guishing and attractive pecuharities of the Land: 1st. It is the Land of Antiquities ; 2nd. It is tlie Land of Literature ; 3rd. It is the Land of great Wars; 4th. It is the Land of the Bible ; 5th. It is the Land of Prophecy ; Cth. It is the Land of a peculiar People and of peculiar Promises. I. In order to form a right conception of the East, and the manners and customs of the oriental nations, I must in- \dte you to detach yourselves, as much as possible, from those in which you have been born and educated. Let judg- ment and fancy check, yet sustain, each other in our delinea- tions of what we have seen and heard ; and imagination, like the lamp of Aladdin, transport us into the regions of the sun, the birth-place of the human species. Behold, now, in what a world you are. Everything is different from the cold, conventional, European world you have left. The food that you eat is different food, the sounds that you hear are different sounds, and the eye opens upon the old world of Abraham, and Isaac, and Jacob, unchanged and unchange- 4 DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE EAST AND WEST. able, to you novel and altogether strange. Yet we have some things in common with them ; we must all eat, both in the East and in the West, and with the mouth too. We both see with the eyes and hear with the ears ; the necessary and fundamental actions of the body are, indeed, the same, as they must be everywhere, else man would cease to be man ; but the nonessential, far more numerous, and highly important particulars, of which the sum total of our existence is mainly made up modes, customs, usages, all that you can set down to the score of the national, the social, or the conventional, are precisely as different from yours as the East is different from the West. They sit when you stand ; they lie when you sit ; they do to the head what you do to the feet ; they use fire when you use water ; you shave the beard, they shave the head ; you move the hat, they touch the breast ; you use the lips in salutations, they touch the forehead and the cheek ; your house looks outwards, their house looks inwards ; you go out to take a walk, they go up to enjoy the fresh air ; you drain your land, they sigh for water ; you bring your daugh- ters out, they keep their wives and daughters in ; your ladies go barefaced through the streets, their ladies are always covered ; you know and recognise your family when you see them in public, they cannot distinguish wife, sister, or daugh- ter from strangers. The veil covers and equalises all. Here woman is a companion, there she is a slave ; here monogamy prevails, there polygamy ; here the birth of a daughter is a blessing, there it is deemed a curse ; here in the family, in society, and in the state, the ideas of right and equality and freedom prevail, there those of deference, submission, and servitude. The son, the subject, the slave, the wife obeys ; sub- mission unhesitating, unqualified submission is the stereo- typed dogma of the whole eastern world. Here you are on the move, you are making progress ; the thousand influences CAUSES OF THIS DIVERSITY. ,5 with which society here is interpenetrated and impelled onward, are unknown in the East. There all is still. The sea of life is unruffled, save where four wives dwell in the same house, and their lord and master is from home. II. Seeing, then, that society in the East and society in the "West are so different, the question occurs to every tra- veller and observer " What causes this diversity ?" Let us attend to this question for a little. The social edifice, as you see it in the British isles, or among the continental nations, is not the result of a few simple, natural principles, moving right onward in clear and uninterrupted develop- ment ; no, it is the effect of the mightiest and most contra- dictory forces known to man working for ages in the bosom of society, each limiting and controlling its fellows, and each seeking for the mastery itself. In the East now, as in former ages, everywhere we behold single principles guiding the destinies, and moiJding the character, of states and nations ; with us, on the contrary, new and miheard of forces have been added to those of antiquity, and the social body urged by all manner of violent impulses, and interpenetrated with fresh and invigorating life. Consider these all removed from among us for a long series of ages, or you cannot even approximate, in your thoughts, to the true condition of the East. 1st. The influence of the Fulpit in the British isles is im- mense. The weekly and daily preaching of the gospel, the sanctification of the sabbath, the habits of church-going, and pastoral visitation, bring the body of the population into contact with the gospel. Thousands of sacred and sanc- tifying influences flow from this fountain. Multitudes of hard and stony hearts are softened and subdued by divine grace ; and when this is not the case, the individually unap- 6 THE PULPIT THE PRESS. preciatecl influences of truth are manifested, in a general and external way, by elevating tlie public morality of the land. Christianity is, in fact, a living principle with you. It enters into the life of the nation, working its way through the mass ; correcting, ameliorating, consecrating everything it touches, and shedding its heavenly radiance over every estate of man, from the deep foundations of the multitude up to the gilded pinnacles of royalty itself. In the East we have none of this. The overwhelming majority are not Christian, are decidedly and mortally opposed to Christianity, and deem no conduct too scornful, and no treatment too vile and ignominious, for the Christian dogs. Among the Christians themselves, the gospel is not preached. I mean not merely our old gospel of free grace, and justifying faith, and redeeming love ; I mean, there is no preaching at aU. The priests are ignorant of everything save to baptise the children and bury the dead. Only one Greek priest in Damascus attempts to preach ; only three sermons are preached annually in the cathedral church of that city, and even these are bad ones. The teaching the people is no part of the gospel ; the renewal of the nature of man, the offices of the great Quickener, are neither known, believed, nor preached. What would London, Edinburgh, and Dublin become, in the course of ages, if only three wretched sermons were delivered annually in their cathedral churches ? 2nd. Yoit have also the Press, This is a mighty power. The daily and weekly papers pervade the whole land. The monthlies, quarterlies, and annuals, that in thousands and tens of thousands flow from that teeming fountain, stir up the dormant faculties to thought, and augment, while they guide, the restless activities of the nation. This is unknown in the East. The Arabic language is spoken by sixty mil- lions of the human race, and there is at this time of the day neither a daily, weekly, monthly, nor quarterly journal in that rich and noble dialect. What a field there is here for the benevolence of British Christians. Let a number of generous and Christian men imite to establish a weekly jour- nal in this language for the eastern world ; let it embrace the whole circle of Chambers', with the addition of a fervid Christianity, and from Malta, as the centre, let it circulate, free of expense, to the utmost bounds of the East. Thus would you open a channel for faith and civilisation into the heart and life of the Orient, and, at the same time, confer the blessings of knowledge upon ignorant millions of your fellow-creatures. 3rd. The Bar in England contributes, not a little, to the formation of the national character. The debates in the great council of the nation, when the laws are made or altered, are watched with intense anxiety, by the public. In the making of the laws, and in the courts of justice, where they are executed, the greatest minds of the nation encounter each other in keen, but ennobling, controversy. This man is praised, that man is detested ; the public are interested, and an impulse is com- municated to the popular feeling. There is no such thing in the East. The law is the will of the Sultan ; the execution of law is according to the good sense of the judge. The cadi sits, like a tailor, in the corner of the court of justice ; the mufti, with the Koran in his hand, sits by his side ; the plaintiif kneels, and states his case ; the witnesses are sworn, and give their evidence ; the judge, or cadi, delivers the sen- tence ; and the executioner stands in court, ready to carry it out on the spot. There is no jury, there is no arguing of the case ; no impertinent questions are permitted on the part of inquisitive advocates to disturb the tranquillity of the judge. If he be a good and upright man, he decides accord- ing to the principles of common sense and natural equity ; 8 MEANS OF COMMUKICATION. and tlie administration of justice has the advantages of being cheap, speedy, and irresistible : if, on the other hand, as is generally the case, the judge be corrupt, then the decision will depend on the value of the presents. Among the Be- daween of the desert the process may be still speedier. " Jacob, is that your donkey?" " Yes, judge, it is mine." "Joseph, is that your donkey?" " Yes, sheich, it is indeed mine." " Executioner, come quickly, and give each of them fifty on the bare back, for bringing an animal here without knowing to whom it belongs, and in the meantime keep the donkey for me." 4th. In England your Means of Communication with one another, and with the whole world, are easy and rapid. The land is intersected with roads. In the East, roads for wheeled vehicles are unknown ; the footman, the donkey, or the mxde, must carry your letters. The camel is your ship through the desert sands, and everything proceeds in slow, solemn, oriental style. You wish to cross the Lebanon, from Beyrout to Damascus, the distance is about fifty miles, as the crow flies ; you send for the muleteers, with whom you must smoke a few pipes ; then spend a few hours in concluding the bargain ; then spend a day or two in preparation ; then be detained a day longer, by some unforeseen circumstance on the part of the muleteers, which never fails to take place ; then spend three days on the journey, and at last find your- self safe in the city of Eliezer. In England you step into a train, and your journey is over in five or six hours. Japheth, the Enlarger, true to his character and the divine promise (Gen. ix. 27), obtains the supremacy over his brethren. Ood has enlarged the enlarger, piEi'h DTI^K J13'' the tents of the long-favoured Shem are his possession, and Ham is his servant. Even the heathen version is instructive UNION SOCIETIES, 9 " Audax omnia perpeti Gens humana ruit per vetituni nefas ; Audax lapeti genus Ignem fraude mala gentibus intulit !" 5th. In England, you act upon the principle that Union is strength. Your land is filled with societies, clubs, corpora- tions of every name, and for every conceivable object. The principles of benevolence and Christian charity express them- selves in manifold societies and institutions in behalf of the poor and the unemployed at home and abroad ; one society meets, and a road is made or a bridge is built ; another com- pany meets, and a railway is undertaken ; a literary society treats you to a disquisition on taste, in which both Alison and Longinus are controverted ; the venerable antiquarians meet monthly to discuss old coins and Egyptian hieroglyphics ; the arts and sciences have their institutions and assemblies. See, there is a geological meeting, convened to discuss the antiquity, if not the eternity, of the earth ; yonder the agricultural chemists are analysing soils and manures in order ta diminish human labour, and find a royal road to the eatables of the earth. The various trades have their meetings ; the merchants, the mechanicians, and the farmers, have their meetings ; the lawyers, the parliamentarians, and the clergy, have their meetings. There was a meeting the other day of the thieves of London, in which the young thief of twenty, who had been nineteen times in prison, was cheered and applauded to the echo ! In the Orient you have none of this activity ; all is quiet and tranquil ; no friendly meetings, no hot debates about religion, law, or politics ; no searching into nature to explore her hidden recesses ; no rising up into the condition of reflecting, self- acting, responsible men. As the government is the great plunderer, so must it be the great improver ; if the pasha 10 RELIGIOUS AT?fD POLITICAL LIBERTY. mends not the roads, they remain impassable ; if tlie pasha builds not the bridge, we can go round by the fords ; no man pays the least attention to anything but his own immediate wants. Conceive, then, that all these meetings, societies, and institutions were suppressed throughout the British empire, and kept in total suppression for a thousand years, what would be the state of England ? 6th. In England you enjoy religious and political Liberty, and the exercise of these sacred and hereditary rights, throws over the human character a bright and ennobling lustre. I do not attribute much to the forms of government, knowing well that the breath of liberty and self-confidence in the people can, and does, mitigate the ferocity, and all but hxmianise the actings, of the beasts which the prophet saw rising one after another out of the sea (Dan. vii. 1, &c.) ; while on the other hand, the spirit of tyranny and oppression clothing itself, like Satan, in the forms of liberty and popular attractiveness, can degrade and bestialise both the human and the divine. The religious and the political went hand in hand in the former great struggles in which your fathers, planting in blood and tears the oak of liberty, under which you find shelte;: from the storm, conquered in their dying, and slew by being slain. In Germany, religious is far ahead of political freedom ; and in the East, as in the days of the false prophet, so in this nineteenth century, the Mohammedan that changes his religion must surely be put to death. The late limitations of this fundamental law of Islam, I shall explain in the proper place ; in the meantime, be assured that the Mohammedan in Aleppo, Damascus, or Constantinople, who changes his religion, will lose his head. Now, consider the state of things in a country like Syria, where the government stands clothed in its attributes of prescriptive and imdefined terrors ; and where the subjects. RELIGIOUS AND POLITICAL LIBERTY. 11 without means of union, without hope of successful opposition, stand each in his single personality, to hear and obey the win of their master. Despotism is not tyranny. I admit it. Many oriental emperors have been tyrants, they have been all despots ; but consider, I beseech you, how easily the one merges into the other, and you will come to the conclusion that terror is the only principle of government, and fear the only principle of obedience in the people. The two parties are the governing and the governed. There are no hereditary nobles to intermediate between the sovereign and the subject ; no popular institutions around which the discomfited people could rally ; no provincial or national parliaments to guard the rights of nations, and make their voice be heard before emperors and kings. When Dr. Wilson and I called upon the governor of Sychem, on behalf of the plundered and persecuted Jews, he said, stroking his beard and swearing by it, that the religious liberty which we had described was the very principle of the Turkish empire. When I lived in Damascus, some wits or wags stuck up upon the wall of the city a few puns reflecting on the government. They were banished from the country. Banish, then, from your thoughts, the ideas of liberty ; suppress throughout the empire every word and syllable of free opinion, and keep it so for a thousand years, and you have in Britain the type of Turkey. These, then, are important difierences. The pulpit, the press, the bar, steam, societies, and civil and religious liberty/, have ex- ercised, and do exercise, a powerful influence in the formation of our national manners. You must try, therefore, in your con- templation of the East, to leave aside aU thoughts of England and its glories, and enter with me at once into a new world. III. We are entering upon the description of a country which presents, both to the Christian and the man, more 12 PECULIARITIES OF THE LAND. points of attraction, more objects of national contemplation, more events of universal history, than any other in the world. We admire what is ancient. Here we find temples the attractions of all travellers, the wonders of the world, whose origin is known only to Grod, Avhose very ruins fill the beholder with astonishment and delight ; see, yonder is the ancient rock stretching out into the sea, on which the greatest of all maritime cities stood; the birth-place of Queen Dido ; the anointing cherub of Ezekiel, the conquest of the mad Macedonian, " Before whose broad footsteps the Ganges was dry, And the mountains recoiled from the flash of his eye." Look northward, and behold a city described by Moses, Homer, and all historians, up to the late work of Dr. Wilson ; one of the most ancient, if not the most ancient in existence, leading us in an unbroken line to the waters of the deluge, and testifying, in its present dilapidated condition, to the verity of God's unchangeable word. Jerusalem unites, in a continuous history, the immense period from Melchisedec, the priest of the most high God, to Gobat, the priest and bishop of the church of England. Damascus reminds you of Abraham and Eliezer, while the cedars of Lebanon, the twelve patriarchs of the forest riven by many a thimderbolt, and shaken by the tempests of these Alpine regions, lift up their giant arms to heaven in undecaying vigour, and awaken in you ideas of remote and hoary antiquity. But 2nd. We are formed to love and admire Literature. Come with me, then, to the beautiful and beautifiilly situated city Sychar, where the Saviour preached the gospel to the woman of Samaria ; where the Christian philosopher, Justin Martyr, was born; and see the pentateuch of the only Samaritan colony that exists on the earth. There you see the ANTIQUITIES LITERATURE. 13 divine origin of human literature ; these are the old Hebrew letters, used before the captivity, in which the ten command- ments were written by the finger of God himself. Or if you cannot believe that during the seventy years the letters were changed, then open your bibles, and in the beautiful square characters of the Hebrew, you behold at once the first letters and the noblest literature in the world. The most venerable of historians is Moses ; for sacred lyrics, the world has never seen, and is not Kkely soon to see, another David ; for sub- limity of style, and mastery of eloquence, we may fairly set up Paul and Isaiah and Job, against all the nations of the earth ; the Songs of Sappho, when compared with those of Miriam, Deborah, Elisabeth and Mary, are as earth to heaven ; while tenderness and divine love have never breathed so much of heaven as in the descriptions of the Apostle John. There are only three historical nations the Jews, the Greeks, and the Romans. The Romans are to the Greeks, what matter is to spirit. The E-oman history is the development of materialism, the progress of all-subduing force, the sub- jugation of manldnd to the dominion of the sword ; Greece is a great spiritualism, an opening out of mental activity, a history of the movement, ardour, subtlety, sublimity, depravity of the human mind a wonderful unfolding of the universal and all-pervading dominion of thought. Judaism leads us at once to the fountain-head of being ^the glorious and ineffable source of the created imiverse. In the Roman nation you have the operations of power; in the Grecian, developments of genius ; in the JeAvish, the mani- festations of God. Rome, Athens, and Jerusalem, are the three centres upon the earth of the material, the mental, and the divine ; and from these teeming fountains have flowed almost aU the impulsive movements by which the stagnant waters of human life have been agitated or purified since 14 LrrERATURE. the beginning of tlie world. In every sense of the word, Syria is the most literary land in existence. The Greeks owe their letters to that strip of land between Lebanon and the sea, the ancient centre of civilisation, Phoenicia, as the poet indignantly reminds their degenerate sons " Ye have the letters Cadmus gave, They were not meant to teach a slave." This is the country illustrated by the immortal work of Josephus, which, if you believe Scaliger, is worthy of more credit, even in Roman affairs, than all the Greek and E-oman writers put together : here lived and laboured a great part of his life the sublime but erratic genius, the illustrious Origen Adamantius, whose influence upon the church, for good or for evil, was greater than that of any other jnan, before or after him, save Paul and Augustine. Here lived and laboured, fasted and argued, the great church-father Jerome, the most crabbed and the most learned of men, whose commentaries and translations of the Scriptures called the Yulgate, have built up for him a stable and enduring fame. But time would fail me to enimierate the heroes who fought, the martyrs who bled, the writers who illustrated, the pilgrims who visited, the con- querors who plundered, this land of literary and religious celebrity. This is the land and Jerusalem is the spot, the only land and the only spot on the earth, where you hear in a morning twenty-five or thirty languages spoken in the streets. This is the land, and the only land in the world, sacred to the three great religions, the Jewish, the Mohammedan, and the Christian, by which the three noblest languages known to mankind have been consecrated to the service of the Deity. But 3rd. Consider the Wars of Palestine. I hope you admire neither warfare nor the principles of our nature from which it springs (Jas. iv. 1) : I am persuaded that you see a greater glory in the civic crown for a citizen preserved, than in the blood-stained diadem, attained through armies' victories, and all the pomp of war. Still, we must follow with interest, if not with approbation, the footsteps of the conqueror or destroyer, as he passes in blood and fire through the land. Tell me then, if you can, what battles have been fought in this region, during the interval between Joshua of old, and Ibrahim Pasha in our own times, who both took up the same military position on the Jordan. The Pharaohs and the Nebuchadnezzars, the Emperors and the Caliphs, the Ommiades and the Abassades, have played the game of empire through long centuries of bloody controversy on this devoted land. Here Alexander and Napoleon fought for the dominion of the East. " Acca being conquered," said Napoleon, "Damascus presents me its keys. I shall march upon the Euphrates, reach Constantinople with large masses of soldiery, found a new empire in the East, and fix my name in the records of posterity." Here the war of opinion, ac- cording to Edmund Burke the most awful kind of warfare 'the war of contending religions raged in all bygone ages, and rages still in the fullest, deadliest hate ! Heathenism and Judaism fought for life and death around Jerusalem ; Mohammedanism and Christianity encountered each other in the long wars of the Crusades ; Soliman the Magnificent and our Richard of England measured swords at the sea of Galileo for the tomb of Christ ; and the Druses and the Christians of Mount Lebanon seem to prove that the natural state of man is war. Here we have the battle-field of the East and the West, not only in a physical, but also in a moral, sense. All the sects of the Christians, east and west ; all the sects of the Jews and the Mohammedans, meet in IG lAND OF THE BIBLE. the Holy Land and in tlio holy city of Jerusalem, to discuss and arrange their differences in the Mosque of Omar, or the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ! 4th. This country, whose manners and customs we intend to describe, is emphatically the land of the Bibk. We are about to make an excursion to the metropolis of Christianity, the spiritual birth-place of the great family of God, where the elder Brother of the church, the adorable Redeemer of man, lived and died and rose again. Every step is sacred ground, every mountain has a voice, every valley has a tradition, every rock has an echo, every ruin has a prophecy, every custom has a meaning, to interest the Christian, illustrate the Scriptures, and verify the announcements of prophecy. Nor is the land unknown. The divine psalmody, used in our churches, has made us, from youth to manhood, familiar with the facts, events, and localities of the country ; while the preaching of the glorious gospel of the blessed God has associated inseparably in our hearts and convictions Bethlehem, Jerusalem, and IS'azareth, Calvary, Gethsemane, and Mount Olivet, with all that we most fondly hope or firmly believe the saving verities of our religion ; not the less attractive, not the less lovely, but the more because they are presented in the enamel of a Jewish nomenclature. Moses and Christ are not opposites ; they are contemplated together in the Divine purpose ; they can no more be divided from each other, than the body and the spirit in a living man. You are not pure spirits, that you could enjoy and realise pure, unfigured, imlocalised, metaphysical truth ; you are men, that is, em- bodied spirits, and can be most easily reached, and most deeply affected, by embodied truth truth, under the limi- tations of time and place and person truth audible, visible, and tangible ; truth under the forms of words, figures, sjtu- LAND OF THE BIBLE. 17 bols, and all the beautiful varieties of an outward and sensible drapery. Hence the temple, and the temple-service, which, as a preparation for Christianity, were nothing else than a great luminous dome, through which the hopes of a coming deliverer shed their efMgence over the land ; hence the necessity of the incarnation of the Son of God, by which the glories of the invisible godhead, the fulness of his ineffable and illimitable love to mankind, have been revealed to our understandings, and brought home to our hearts in our own visible and material nature ; hence the necessity of times and places for prayer, and temples for visible worship, and all the various ordinances by which the church is preserved in the unity of the spirit and the bonds of peace. In this devout spirit, by which we seek to recognise the Creator in his creation, let us pass through this land of wonders, where the dispensations of mercy found their first outward develop- ments ; where heavenly voices and angel-visits cheered with promises and benedictions the sojourners of the earth ; where pardon from on high was proclaimed to the apostate, and life and immortality burst forth from the grave. Come then, let us draw water from the well of Jacob, like the woman of Samaria. There sat the Saviour on the well's mouth. On your right is Joseph's tomb ; and right before you the city of Sychar. Can you, without interest, behold the Sea of Galilee ; the waters of the Jordan, or that ancient river the river Kishon ? " Or if Sion hill Delight thee more, and Siloa's brook that flowed Fast by the oracle of God," then yonder is Jerusalem, in the weeds of her widow- hood, weeping over the glories of the past; Siloa still flows from the rock of the temple, and Moimt Olivet is still, as in the days of old, to the east of Jerusalem, and all aroimd are the scenes most consecrated to the Christian heart, c LAND OF PROPHECY. most deeply associated with the doing and dying of the Son of God. Everything breathes the air of Scripture. The customs of the inhabitants are Bible customs ; their dress, gait, and salutations, remind you of the Bible. Their parabolic language, and solemn but simple forms of polite- ness, are quite Biblical. While, therefore, the Bible remains the word of God, and the sinner continues to drink from that living fountain, the land of Palestine can never cease to be a subject of the highest interest to the whole Christian world. But this leads me to observe 5th. That in this land we see, in a very special manner, the fulfilment of the Prophecies. This is of vital importance in the Christian argument, and cannot fail to interest us, and that in the same measure in which we long for the conversion of the unbeKeving and the triumphs of the gospel. The testimony of Jesus is the spirit of prophecy (Rev. xix. 10). The historian dwells upon effects and their causes, the preacher opens up to the people the revealed will of God, the prophet takes you behind the scene, shows you the mighty hand that moves and guides events, and effecting here and there an opening in the cloudy heavens gives you a faint idea, an inkling, of the ripening purpose of the Divine Predestinator. What a noble position prophecy gives us, from which to contemplate the events of history as they pass along the stream of time into the ocean of eternity ! What an ennobling feeling that we are brought into contact, not merely with the work, but with the worker, and that our dwarfish conceptions are enlarged and enlightened by the belief of an all- comprehending, all- conquering, purpose of Divine love ! Come with me to Tabor, forget for the time Barak and his band of patriots, the virgins of Israel and their songs of triumph. It is the mount of trans- figuration, it is the hiU of prophecy, on which, in company with the glorified Redeemer, the centre and sustaining head of LAND OF PROPHECY. 19 all the purpose of God, we read in the light which surrounds him the ruins of empires, the progress of the eveats of time, the issues of the eternal world. These ruined cities, this withered and blighted land, the scattered people to M^hom, by covenant-right, it belongs, these conquerors and plunderers that eat up, like the locusts, every green thing ; these, and many other such-like occurrences, are the clear fulfilments of prophecy the writing out to the eye in letters of fiery desola- tion what God had long before announced to the ear of the impenitent. This is not the place to trace out the fulfilment of particular prophecies. When we come to the scene of the prophecy we shall then consider the fulfilment. In the mean- time remember, that the principle of prophecy is implanted by the God of heaven in the human breast. Hope lifts us above the world of sublunary things, and indicates longings that can be satisfied only in the kingdom of God. Hope makes the demand, and prophecy furnishes the supply. Hope turns the eye of man upwards, prophecy gives the light from heaven to meet and satisfy it. We can as easily cease to remember as cease to hope. History is the food of memory, prophecy is the food of hope ; prophecy leads us to the contemplation of an acting, working, living God, the orderer of the nations, the provider and guardian of the human race. It annihilates atheism and the somnolent deity, who, they say, sits behind the elements in the repose of imperturbable tranquillity, be- holding with indifierence (Mat. x. 29) the creatures that he has made ! It brings you in contact with a personal God, working actively in the creation ; a holy God, rewarding the obedient and pimishing the transgressor ; and in the midst of all conceivable varieties of agents, events, and operations, and in spite of all conceivable impediments and oppositions from sin and Satan, and the will of man, bringing out the steady and harmonious accompKshment of his purpose of grace and c2 20 lajST) of promise. love in the Mediator. (Eph. i. 10.) Prophecy embraces the two great classes, the sheep and the goats, the church and the world ; it takes for granted, therefore, the principles on which these communities are founded. Predestination is the founda- tion of Providence, without which prophecy is inconceivable ; election is the basis of a church, without which the fulfilment of the prophetic purpose is impossible. Thus, in tracing the fulfilment of prophecy in our progress through the land, we are entering upon a field of boundless extent and magnificence the character of God, the author of it the history of the church and the world, the objects of it the method, literal or figurative, of the accomplishment of it and the manifestation of the Divine character, the end of it. 6th. But permit me to lead you for a moment to the Promises of God, respecting the land and the people to whom it belongs. The Lord makes the wrath of man to praise him, and by the fulfilment of his threatenings against sin and the sinner, confirms and consolidates the evidence of our holy religion. He is faithfid to his promises as well as his threatenings, and in the ruins of desolated cities and decayed monuments of former greatness, we should anticipate with gladness the reversion of the curse, and the conversion and restoration of the seed of Abraham. 1. The land shall be blessed. The withered valleys shall be renewed with fertility, and filled with inhabitants ; the ruined cities of Judah shall be rebuilt, and the whole country made like "the garden of the Lord." Is. xxix. 17; xxxv. 1, 2, 7, 9; H. 3, 16; Hv. 1113; Iv. 12, 13; Ix. 13, 17; Ixv. 35. Ez. xxxiv. 26, 27; xxxvi. 36. Joel iii. 18. Amos ix. 13, 14. 2. The Jewish nation shall be restored to their own land. See the following scriptures, with many others : Is. xi. 11; xxvii. 12, 13; xliii. 5, 6; xlix. 11, 12 ; Ix. 4. Jer. iii. 18; LAND OF A PECULIAR PEOPLE. 21 xvi. 14, 15 ; xxiii. 3 ; xxx. 10 ; xxxi. 7, 8, 10 ; xxxii. 37. Hos. xi. 10. Zeph. iii. 10. Zech. viii. 7, 8 ; x. 810. Let us boar in mind, therefore, that if in our progress through, the land, we meet on every side the ruins of the country, and the cvidencef of the curse, the time is coming, the time full of hope and benediction to Jew and Gentile ; the time of the restitution of all things spoken of by all the holy prophets, since the world began (Acts xiii. 21); the time when the long divided nation shall become one stick (Ez. xxxvii. 19, 20), and the Jew and Gentile one fold (Is. Ix. ; Rom. xi.), and the glory of the Lord shall fill the whole earth like the waters of the sea (Is. xi. 9). Yes, better times are coming for the poor persecuted Jew. It is not in vain that they have been kept a distinct people for so many ages, under circumstances when their amalgamation was natural, their separate existence a providential miracle. They shall venerate the name which they now reject ; they shall look upon Him whom they have pierced, and mourn ; and all their sorrows be forgotten, in the fulness of peace and joy. The hidden purpose of Divine love has preserved them hitherto, and seems to be fitting them for acting a con- spicuous part in the events that are to usher in the King and the kingdom of righteousness and peace. They form a kind of omnipresent agency over the earth ; they speak all the lan- guages of the world ; they are possessed of great wealth ; they are fortified by the endurance of evil, and fitted for the accomplishment of some mighty purpose ; and the promises of the holy Scriptures seem in many places to connect with them the blessing of the Gentile nations. Ps. Ixvii. 2, 4, 7 ; Is. xxv. 68; xxvii. 6; Ix. 3; Ixvi. 19. Acts iii. 1921. Rom. xi. 12, 15, &c. RESTORED ISRAEL. SONG OF RESTOKED ISRAEL. Is. xii. My God, T will praise thee, the storms of the past Have reposed in a sunshine of glory at last ; My salvation thou art, I will trust without fear, The heart must be joyful when Jesus is near. With joy will I bask in the light of His face. With joy will I draw from the wells of His grace ; I would yield to thy Spirit to lead me around The wide ocean of love, without bottom or bound. O praise ye His name, spread His glorj' abroad ! Declare to the heathen the grace of our God ; Long ages of sin could not alter his mind. Nor diminish the force of His love to mankind. Sing, sing to the Lord! for the acts of His might Are inscribed on the earth with a pencil of light ; And the nations, long sunk in the slumber of death, Are warmed into life, by His quickening breath. But louder than all, let Jerusalem sing, To the Lord that redeemed her, the crucified King; For there shall He sit on His glorious throne. Even there where it pleased Him for sin to atone. CHAPTER II. LEBANON. I. Illustrations of Scripture : 1st. General Observations; 2nd. The House of the Forest of Lebanon ; 3rd. The Cedars of Lebanon ; 4th. The Sides of Lebanon ; 5th. The Roots of Lebanon ; 6th. The Violence of Lebanon ; 7th. The Glory of Lebanon; 8th. "The Skin of the Teeth" illustrated. IL The Inhabitants of Lebanon: First, The Maronites; Second, The Greeks. The Two Parties compared ; 1st. As to Literature ; 2nd. As to Se- cular Employments ; 3rd. As to Preparatory Training; 4th. As to Character in general. Monastic Institutions considered; 1st. As to unnatural Crimes; 2nd. As to Piety and Charity ; 3rd. In Reference to Civilisation. III. The Druses of Mount Lebanon particularly described. IV. Various parti- culars : 1st. The Eoads ; 2nd. The Terraces ; 3rd. The Animals ; 4th. The Villages and Houses. I. Illustrations of Scriptitre. 1st. We have now passed the land of the Pharaohs, touched at the city of Alexander, surveyed Pompey's piUar and Cleopatra's needle, examined the docks of Mehemet Ali, the second historic man of the age (Wel- lington being the first), got a sight of the famous dogs, donkeys, and donkey-boys of Egypt, and here we are upon this beautiful sea, the great sea, ^nun D^H of the Hebrews, the most celebrated in the world, around whose shores have been clustered the great monarchies and republics of an- tiquity. If the genius of the Mediterranean had a voice, what a tale it could bring us from the hoary deep. How peaceful are these waters ! " There shrinks no ebb in this tideless sea, That ceaseless rolls eternally." Be done with your sea- sickness, my brother. The morning breaks forth in oriental splendour. Tyre and Sidon are far behind us, and Lebanon rises before us baptised in the radiance of the morning sun. How lovely is this scene. Is there anything wanting to make it one of the most expand- ing and spirit-stirring on the earth ? Cyprus, the symbol of beauty and guilt, is behind you ; Bey rout, a thriving town of 20,000 inhabitants, V surrounded with mulberry gardens, lies before you ; the sea, tranquil and beautiful, the mirror of a cerulean sky, clasps mountain, bay, and island, in its wide embrace ; and far as the eye can reach in the distance lies Lebanon, like a giant, disporting his limbs in the fresh- ness of the morning, and rising, height above height, some 10,000 feet up to the snowy summits of Mechmel ; while the sun, the Syrian sun, chasing away the darkness of the night, " Tricks his orient beams, And flames in the forehead of the morning sky." All elements are combined in this stupendous Alpine vision. These summits are barren, desolate, and irreclaimable ; there is no vegetation, no life ; not a blade of grass, not a tree, however stunted, relieves the eye as it wanders over the in- finite varieties of stern and rugged desolation. Look you down into these valleys, and mark the contrast. The morn- ing gale is scented with fragrance ; the terraces are teeming with all sorts of fruit trees the vine, the pomegranate, the olive, and the fig. Wells are everywhere bursting forth from the limestone rock ; streams are, in thousands, flowing down the valleys from the dissolving snow. These gorges are fuU of life. Stand on that height, and count, within the range of your vision, some forty villages. There grows the cedar, forty-seven feet in circumference, and the thistle be- side it, as in the days of old. All varieties meet and over- ITS SCENERY. 25 power you in this region ^wildness and cultivation, barren rocks and smiling vales, the tender and the terrible, beauty and deformity, life and death, all that can attract and all that can terrify, and these in all conceivable varieties of form and existence. Wood and water, sea and land, moun- tain and valley, sun and sky, all that is majestically great, harmoniously blended with all that is elegantly little in this panoramic vision of the glorious workmanship of God. Hervey found food for meditation in the tombs ; Marius, in the ruins of Carthage ; Gibbon, in the ruins of Rome ; and Yolney in the ruins of empires ; and as we survey these regions, may we not say, with Young "And if a God there be, that God how great." Or with the poet of the " These, as they change, Almighty Father, these Are but the varied God ; the rolling year Is full of Thee." Or with the Christian poet, Cowper, in a far higher and nobler sense "My Father made them all." Or with the almost pantheistic Pope " Warms in the sun, refreshes in the breeze, Glows in the stars, and blossoms in the trees. Lives through all life, extends through all extent, Spreads undivided, operates unspent." Or with David (Ps. cxlviii.), in the fulness of adoring praise " Praise ye the Lord. Praise ye the Lord from the heavens ; praise him in the heights ; praise ye him all his angels ; praise him all his hosts ; praise him sun and moon ; praise 26 HOUSE AND CEDARS OF LEBANON. him all ye stars of light ; praise him ye heavens of heavens, and ye waters that be above the heavens. Let them praise the name of the Lord : for he commanded, and they were created. He hath also established them for ever and ever : he hath made a decree which shall not pass. Praise the Lord from the earth, ye dragons, and all deeps : Fire and hail ; snow and vapours ; stormy wind fulfilling his word : Mountains, and all ' hills ; fruitful ' trees, and all cedars : Beasts, and all cattle ; creeping things, and flying fowl : Kings of the earth, and all people, princes, and all judges of the earth : Both young men and maidens ; old men and children ; Let them praise the name of the Lord ; for his name alone is excellent ; his glory is above the earth and heaven. He also exalteth the horn of his people, the praise of his saints ; even of the children of Israel, a people near unto him. Praise ye the Lord." 2nd. n^nSl "li;^ JT'n, The House of the Forest of Lebanon. (1 Kings vii. 2.) This house was built by Solomon, not in the Lebanon, but in Jerusalem ; the materials of the building were brought from the cedar groves of Lebanon, and hence the name. We speak in like manner of the East India House, Company, &c. 3rd. \\^'> nii^, The Cedars of Lebanon. The Arabs call them ^^Ua5 Jj\, and refer to them as the wonders of the vegetable world. These celebrated trees are about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, are scattered over a surface of two or three acres, and are now only twelve in number. We measured them with the greatest care, and found them to be of the foUowing dimensions ; 40 ft., 38 ft., 47 ft., 18 ft. 4 in., 30 ft., 22 ft. 6 in., 28 ft., 25 ft. 3 in., 33 ft. 6 in., 29 ft. 6 in., 22 ft., 29 ft. 9in. ; the largest is, therefore, forty-seven feet roTind the base, or very nearly sixteen feet in diameter. The age of these trees is unknown. That they reach back to a CEDAKS OF LEBANON. 27 hoary antiquity, is manifest from their appearance, their size, and the knoicn ages of trees in general. The English oak attains the age of 1,000, and occasionally 1,500 years; the yew tree lives from 2,000 to 3,000 years. There is a tree, in Senegal, and other parts of Africa, of the Boabad kind {Adamsoniana digitata) thirty-six feet in diameter, and beUeved, by scientific men of the highest acquirements, to be 5,232 years old. Henslow asserts that the American Tax- odium flourishes from 4,000 to 6,000 years ; and M. De Can- dolle, a high botanical name, asserts that there are trees in Mexico which have existed from the foundation of the world. Should this awful longevity be found consistent with the Mosaic account of the deluge, then would the words of the Psalm civ. 16, JTIOJ "It^.S pjl'? niK HIH^ ^)iV ^^^^l^^- " The trees of God are full of sap, The cedars of Lebanon, which he hath planted," admit of a literal meaning. These noble trees are used by the prophets very often in a symbolical sense, and connected in many ways, both with the believer, and the believer's God. Believe in God ; cast in thy lot with the Son of God, and be not afraid of all the power of the enemies of the soul. "The righteous shall flourish like the palm-tree ; he shall grow like a cedar in Lebanon." (Psalm xcii. 12.) These cedars have deep foun- dations " Moored in the rifted rock, Proof to the tempest shock," they raise up their rugged arms in defiance of the storm. So is it with thee, brother ; the Lord is thy strength, and underneath thee are the everlasting arms. Perhaps thou art a haughty, high-minded, proud, God-defiant scorner ? Then 28 CEDARS OF LEBANON. the cedar is a type of thee. Behold these cedar groves, these patriarchs of the forest. How deep their roots. How strong, rugged, massive their branches, how beautiful and glorious the vault of their circumambient foliage. "But the day of the Lord shall be upon the cedars of Lebanon " (Is. ii. 13) ; and the mighty ones shall fall (Zee. xi. 2) before the hand of the spoiler ; and the voice of the Lord breaketh the cedars, the Lord breaketh the cedars of Lebanon (Ps. xxix. 5). You must break and sink before his power. No man may contend with his Maker. Listen to the Almighty Thunderer, if ye will not welcome redeeming love, and make ready to depart (Matt. xxv. 41), for the hour of His judgment is come. The cedar is joined with the vine (Ps. Ixxx. 10), to designate and symbolise the church. This vine spread forth its branches like the cedars, and covered the hills with its shadow. This is a noble union ; the sap and fruit of the vine joined to the height and strength of the cedar. Here are the two aspects of the church, the earthly and the heavenly ; she presents the cedar's firmness to resist the storms of the world ; she presents the mellowed fruit of the vine to the Sun of Highteousness in heaven. The wood of the tabernacle was shittim (Ex. xxvi. 15), a frail and perishable substance ; fit emblem of our wilderness-state, while, like Abraham, we are looking for a city that hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God. Cedar-wood was used in the temple. It was hewn down in these groves of Lebanon, brought probably to the sea by the t-J^^j^, the Dog-River, and landed at Joppa, the sea-port of Jerusalem. It is the hardest, most incorruptible, wood known, and, there- fore, a fit type of the fixed state, the temple condition, of the church, in which the shittim- wood yields to the cedar, the tabernacle to the temple, and mortality is to be swallowed up of Hfe. 4th. p:)!"? "'JIDIS The Sides of Lebanon (Is. xxxvii. 24). " SIDES " AND " ROOTS " OF LEBANON. 29 You are not to conceive of Lebanon as a solitary and detached hill or mount. It is the name given to the highest summits of a great range running for fifty miles along the sea shore. Here you have innumerable gorges and valleys of all shapes and sizes. The Assyrian (Is. xxxvii. 24) threatens to ascend these slopes, and cut down the tali cedars and the choice fir trees thereof. The figure is striking and grand. He is not content with the cities and the plains. Sennacherib ascends like an overflowing iniondation, overwhelming Jerusalem, Carmel, Tabor, and Hermon in its course ; thence rolling its surging waters up the sides of the mighty Lebanon until the very cedars are submerged imder the conquering deluge. The poet has thought fit to change the structure of the figure, but he has not improved it " The Assyrian came down like a wolf on the fold, And his cohorts were gleaming with purple and gold ; And the sheen of his spears was like stars on the lea, As the blue wave rolled nightly on deep Galilee." 5th. The dying patriarch Isaac was pleased with the smeU of his son Jacob's garments, and said it was like the smell of a field which the Lord had blessed (Gen. xxvii. 27). This smell is particularly rich and agreeable on Moimt Lebanon, where fruit trees are so abundant. Stand of a morning in the spring season in the village of Eitat, or Einanoob, or Abeih, in which I lived, and look down into the valleys that stretch around you. The vine orchards are unfolding their tender buds ; the first early blossoms of the mishmush (apricot) are over; the olive gardens are radiant with life and beauty; the mulberry is in bloom ; the woods are vocal, the air is balm ; the heart, full of joyous life, responds to the sym- pathies that pervade the world ; and the morning gale, as it wends its way through the valleys gathering contributions of 80 ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCRIPTURE. sweet incense from all sides, salutes your grateful sense with the odours of the spring. Then read and understand the words of Solomon (Song iv. 11): "Thy lips, my spouse, drop as the honeycomb ; honey and milk are under thy tongue ; and the smell of thy garments is as the smell of Lebanon." Compare Hos. xiv. 7. Or are you, as I have often been, warm and weary, and almost dying of thirst ; your stock of siui- warmed water is ended, the very last drop wnmg out of your bottles for the ladies, and the bottles themselves are dry and musty. These bottles are not made of glass, but of sheepskin, the identical JIIM of the Gibeonites (Jos. ix. 4) ; the JjVj^ of the Arabs ; the aaKog of the New Testament (Matt. ix. 17; Mark ii. 22; Luke V. 37, 38) ; and the uokm ev aiyeiu), the goatskin bottle of old (Homer, D. iii. lin. 247). How refreshing are these wells of living water these streams from Lebanon, of which the wise man speaks ! (Song iv. 15.) Water is the great deside- ratum in the East, and there is hardly a spot of soil conceivable, except it were altogether rock, which the eastern sim and a well of water would not turn into a fruitful field. In Lebanon there is great abundance of water, not rivers only, but wells and streams. The streams flow from the dissolving snows, and show themselves descending over the rocks or running through the terraces on the side of the mountain, glancrag in the sun and through the trees Kke threads of silver. The springs flow from the Kmestone rocks, and ^re surrounded by the populous and romantic villages of the Maronites and the Druses. Or perhaps, being thirsty, you would rather have wine than water ? Then come into one of these monasteries, and realise the excellence of the wme of Lebanon (Hos. xiv. 7). There is no good wine here but in the convents. The wines of Syria are, generally speaking, black and white ; on the Lebanon they have three kinds VIOLENCE OF LEBANON. 31 the hlack, the lohite, and the golden. The vino d'ora is exquisite. In Hosea xiv. 4 7, the Lord graciously promised to bless and restore his afflicted people, to heal their backsliding, and to love them freely. As the dew ('?J3) descends gently and quietly from heaven, so shall my grace open the dark, cold heart of Israel, as it did Lydia's in the days of old. " He shall rise up, (HJli^lli^D) Hke the lily," a fair and beautiful object of admiration among the nations ; "he shall strike his roots (Vti^")li^ ']"') like the Lebanon," deep and immoveable, and fill the face of the world with fruit (Isaiah xxvii. 6) ; "he shall spread his branches like the olive tree, and his smell shall be as the smell of Lebanon." In this fine description and noble promise, which we can best realise among the Alpine masses of Lebanon, we have many glorious prophetic truths brought before us. 1. That the mercy of God is not ex- hausted by all their sins. He will yet choose Israel. 2. He will restore them to their own land. 3. They shall become a great and mighty nation. 4. They shall be a source of blessing to the surrounding nations. 6th. pjl'? DQH, The molence of Lebanon (Hab. ii. 17), seems to refer to the character of the inhabitants. Lebanon has been the seat of liberty, violence, contention, and desolat- ing fury since time inmiemorial. The remnants which Joshua could not exterminate took refuge in these mountains (Jud. iii. 3). There is a hereditary nobility on Lebanon who claim the military homage and service of their dependents, like the Scottish chiefs of old. War is announced between these chiefs by the CL^yO, voice, which, in all essentials, resembles the Fiery Cross of the Highland clans. The muster-place is announced by runners from village to village, and the ex- terminating fury of these hostile bands might easily originate the descriptive phrase, the violence of Lebanon. The Turks 32 ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCRIPTURE. and the Mohammedan religion never made their way into these strong fastnesses, and the present inhabitants, if united, could defend themselves and their religion against all the forces of the Sultan. The Druses and the Christians are, however, mortal enemies, and seldom continue more than a year or two in a state of peace. 7th. The glory of Lebanon (Isaiah Ix. 13) denotes the cedar, as it is mentioned in connection with the fir tree, the box, and the pine, which are to beautify the sanctuary of the Lord. See also Isaiah xxxv. 2. Lebanon is not sufficient to burn (Is. xl. 16), shews the remarkable fertility of the mountain, and the great abundance of its trees. The doors of Lebanon (Zech. xi. 1) are the valleys, gorges, and mountain passes, through which the devouring element reaches the cedar groves. 8th. When I was in the Lebanon, and indeed in the entire East, we had difficulties in getting servant girls. This arises from two causes. 1. That service is generally done by slaves, and we refused to purchase. 2. The retiring character of females in the East, and the bad character of many European travellers have brought about this result ^that a decent girl suspects you and will not come into your house, and those who would come you are unmlling to take. However, one day a poor wretched being came to my door and proposed to be a servant. Where are your parents ? Dead. Have you brother or sister ? Dead, all dead. Have you any friends ? No. Have you no better clothes than these ? None, none ! and at this word she imcovered her teeth, touched them with the joined finger and thumb, thus reminding me of the exquisite de- lineation of poverty (Job xix. 20) " My bone cleaveth to my skin and to my flesh, and I am escaped with the skin of my teeth." INHABITANTS OF LEBANON. 33 II. The inhabitants of Lebanon. The first and most numerous class of the inhabitants are the Maronites. These are a remnant of the ancient Christians, probably of the MonotheHte sect, who survived the persecutions of the orthodox emperors of the East, and the still more exterminating fury of Caled, the sword of God, and the Caliphs of the new and victorious Islam. Here, in these magnificent mountain fast- nesses, the persecuted found a refuge, alike from the sword of the Saracen and the imbrotherly glance of the heresy-finder. Their district extends over the movmtain from Tripoli to Tyre, and the noble Alpine hills and valleys, called Kasrawan, are entirely their own. The whole Maronite nation cannot be less than 200,000 souls. They take the name from a monk called Maro, who lived in the fourth century. The nimiber of priests is reckoned to be about 1,000. There are, if we believe the papal authorities, sixty- seven monasteries containing 1410 monks, and fifteen nunneries containing 330 nuns. Since the twelfth century they have submitted to the authority of the see of Rome, retaining, however, not a few of their ancient and national privileges. They have their own patriarch, who is elected by the bishops, and invested by the Pope. Their priests are mostly married men, but if they enter into orders unmarried they remain bachelors aU their life ; nor can a widower, either among the Maronite or the Greek priests, take a second wife. The bishops and the patriarch must belong to the angeKc sanctity of the celibate. This is a remarkable interpretation of 1 Tim. iii. 2. The papacy yielded in this, as in other cases, to necessity, nor does it appear that there is almost any doctrine or practice which Rome would not yield to secure the headship and sovereignty of the universal vicar. In the days of Queen EKzabeth, the pope ofiered to consecrate the Liturgy and the Thirty-nine Articles, and admit the British nation into the maternal embrace D 34 MARONITES. GREEK CHURCH. (E.ev. xvii. 5), on the sole condition of tlie headship of the see of Rome. The Maronites, as a body, are a quiet, peaceable, and inoffensive people bigoted Roman CathoKcs, ignorant of the world, chained, both by preference and necessity, to the vine- clad and romantic slopes of the goodly mountain, and entirely dependent for instruction of all kinds on an ill-informed priest- hood ; their faith is fervid, their zeal intolerant, and their general character not imlike the Yendeans of France. The patriarch resides in the convent of Kanobin, has an income of 2,000 a year, presides over nine metropolitan bishops, 1,200 priests, and 356 congregations or churches. They have four seminaries or colleges, in which the Arabic and Syrian languages are taught, some branches of philosophy, and what- ever amount of theology is deemed necessary for the priest- hood. Preaching is no part of the duty of a priest, and the few who are able and willing to exercise this office must have the special permission of the patriarch to do so. Bells are allowed in the Maronite churches, a privilege which no other community in the East enjoys, for the Mohammedans hate, with a perfect hatred, these public calls to Christian worship. Second. There is a small body of the Greek Church on Mount Lebanon. Their numbers, however, are inconsiderable, and the ignorance of the priests, the monks, and the people, almost inconceivable. Indeed, throughout the entire East, the Greek priests are proverbial for ignorance, impudence, and stupidity. The bishop comes to a village, selects one of the peasants who is able to read the service, baptise the children, anoint the sick, and bury the dead lays his hands on him, communicates the electrical succession of apostolicity (viz., stupidity), and so constitutes him the spiritual father of the community. In theory the Greek Church may, in some respects, have the advantage of the Papal ; but in practice, in vigour, in every- THE TWO PARTIES COMPARED. 35 thing that constitutes character, efficiency, and respectability, she is far behind her. Take the following particulars : 1st. I have said the Maronite priests are comparatively illite- rate. This is true. But they are two centuries before the Greeks. All the Christian Kterature of Syria is among the Maronites. The best Arabic school in the world, perhaps, is among them, and they have produced some good grammars and lexicons of that noble and ponderous dialect. 2nd. The clergy of the Maronites are forbidden to engage in secular employments. They must live by the altar. The Greek priests are employed, like the other peasants, in the labour of the fields. 3rd. The Maronite priest must go through a regular course of preparatory studies. He is prepared in the schools and colleges of the nation, and not unfrequently finished in the Maronite Arabic College, at Rome. This gives him a great advantage over the poor Greek. 4th. The Greek Church has, in Syria and the East generally, the character of a quiet, inoperative, dormant community ; the Papal, on the contrary, assumes the attitude of an earnest, ambitious, conquering, missionary church, which claims and is destined to possess the dominion of the world. Consequently multitudes of the Greeks have come over to the papacy, and, generally speaking, the poorer portion of the Christians in Syria belong to the Greek, the more wealthy, fashionable, and influential to the Papal, Church. These are the two bodies of Christians that inhabit the Mountain, and among these have the American missionaries been labouring for a considerable period. Missionary schools have been opened for many years ; a high school or college is now established at Abeih, under the superintendence of the Rev. Dr. Vandyke, for the education of the higher classes. The object of these Christian missionaries is not to dismember, but D 2 36 MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS to enlighten the Oriental cliurclies, and shed, as far as may be, a new life througli the slumbering communities of the East. We are now nearly to bid farewell to the Christians of the Lebanon, but before we do so, we must direct your attention for a moment to the MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS OF THE LEBANON. Stand upon that eminence, my brother, and look round you over these variegated slopes ; these larger buildings and time-worn castles are almost without exception convents, filled with fat, hirsute, and stalwart monks, whose dress may remind you of their order, but whose appearance gives no indication either of fasting or flagellation. They are well endowed with pleasant fields and vineyards, and their cellars are bursting with the choicest wines of Lebanon. The con- templative life, as they call it, has here certainly not a few attractions ; the sun and the scenery, the mountains, rocks, and terrific precipices fill the mind with awe, and seem to carry you from nature up to nature's God ; and if man were not made for labour and social development, if he were a mo- notone, and not an essential part in the gamut of the creation, I know of no spot where his solitary notes might die away more harmlessly than among these hills. Man, however, is not a vegetable. We are all descended from a common origin, are all related to one another by the ties of blood ; and the virtues and duties which nature and the Bible enjoin, demonstrate that seclusion is neither the arena on which moral triumphs are to be achieved, nor the field from which we are to gather the fruits of righteousness. I have no objection to your remaining like Paid (1 Cor. vii. 7), and exercising your gifts without let or encumbrance for the glory of the Redeemer ; or if you choose to follow the illustrious Origen, I shall neither blame nor dissuade you ; but I have OF THE LEBANON. great objection to your entering into vows, joining yourself with others in a seini-human society, of which nature and the Bible say nothing, and spending the few and evil days which God has given you among the sands of the desert or the tempests of the mountain tops. 1. Tell me, if you please, what it was that cried so vehemently to the Lord of heaven, and drew down from the angry Creator streams of fire upon the cities of the plain ? Tell me, if you please, what it was in the old Roman world (Virgil, Eclog. ii., line 1), which has made the monuments of the nation that have survived the hand of time, a disgrace to human nature? What is it in the Orient at the present day, which exercises such a demoralising influence, from the Sultan to the meanest of the people? Now, if such enor- mities have been, and are still practised upon the earth, and in the midst of regularly constituted societies, is it wise in you, by monastic secrecy and seclusion, to increase the tendencies and facilities to crime ? 2. I know you will say, " I seek after purity, I long for entire dedication to Grod ; " hear me, my brother. There was a time when the conventual system was in full operation through the whole of Christendom ; these institutions spread and reproduced themselves like the processes of vegetation, and filled the whole world with the indestructible monimients of mistaken piety and benevolence. Were they, however, a refuge for the lowly and contrite heart? Were they, indeed, the ark of piety, modesty, heavenly-mindedness, and all the sweet virtues of which the world is not worthy, where iniquity of every kind, like an overflowing flood, seemed to submerge Christianity itself ? Is it not a historical fact that they resembled rather the Augean stable, which required the waters of a deluge let into it in order to make Christianity tolerable in Christendom, and churchmen en- 88 MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS CONSIDERED. durable among the sons of men ? The holiness of the ancient prophets, the sanctity of the apostles and the Lord Jesus Christ himself, did not lead them away from the intercourse of mankind to the solitudes of the desert. It led them into defilement, and yet kept them imdefiled ; it gave them the wide field of the world to work in, and supplied them with motives and strength to sustain them in the work. We suspect all other holiness. It is not genuine. It is morbid, it is imsocial, unworldly ; it is not supernatural but unnatural, not super-htmian but anti-human, and whUe seeking to elevate to the piirity of angels it sinks its votaries too often below the level of the brutes. The conventual system is at the best but an organised system of cowardice. You have not faith to walk with Jesus upon the waters, and so you retire, to the solitude. The furnace is too hot for you, the Son of man must walk it alone, for your weak and unloving heart refuses to follow the Lamb whithersoever he goes. Where is that faith to be found of which the apostle speaks (Heb. xi.), which led the worthies of the olden time to such glorious deeds ? Certainly it is not so much evidenced by lying like a water-melon on the slopes of Lebanon, as by ofierings like those of Abraham, good deeds like those of Joseph, self- denial like that of Moses, and heroic actions like those of Gideon, Barak, Jephthah, Samson, and the son of Jesse. 3. Besides, let me tell you, the influence of woman upon the social system, the amount which she contributes to the sanctity and civilisation of the human race is so con- siderable, that we cannot aflFord to dispense with her joyous and tranquillising presence. The infidelity of David Hume was awed by the presence and conversation of modest females. Dr. Whately thinks that a savage could never civilise him- self, while Dr. Arnold contends that a harharian might ; but it is surely equally certain that no people among whom the THE DRUSES. 39 institute of marriage prevailed, could be either the one or the other, and therefore Adam and Eve were neither savages nor barbarians, but decent civilised people, and created in the image of God. Monasticism is, therefore, a step in the direction of the savage or the barbarian. It is a separation of what God has joined together, a voluntary divorce between the tender and the resolute, the beautiful and the strong; and hence it has come to pass, that in all ages the most un- relenting persecutors in the Papal apostasy have ever been from among the clergy and the monastic orders. You see the same truth on these hills of Lebanon. Here the con- ventual system, which in Europe has been decKning since the Reformation, is in vigorous operation, and fanaticism and superstition have been multiplying on the goodly mountain, like the power of its vegetation, with startling luxuriance, and the result is that a Protestant would hardly be allowed to pass through the district of Kasrawan T\athout injury or insult. The convent is the nest egg of superstition ; and fanaticism and persecution are but a second generation from the same unclean bird. So much have I thought it right to say about the Christians and their institutions on Mount Lebanon. We come now to the Druses. III. The Druses of Mount Lebanon, and those scattered through the adjacent towns, may amount to 150,000. They formerly possessed the entire mountain, and formed under their emirs a small but compact and formidable monarchy. The conversion of the house of Shehab, the governing family, to the Maronite faith, gave the preponderance into the hands of the Christians, and the worshippers of Haldm are now compelled to divide their power. The Druses are the most free and warlike portion of the inhabitants. The religion of the Druses is not fully known, nor does it deserve to be THE DRUSES. better. The nation is religiously divided into two classes, the initiated and the uninitiated, or the wise men and the fools. The uninitiated take no part in their public worship, nor is there any salvation for them according to the religion of Hakim. The god of the Druses is a free, glorious, and eternal spirit, the creator, predestinator, and ruler of the world, undefined and incomprehensible, who at different periods of the history of the xmiverse has revealed himself in human form, without sharing the weaknesses of humanity. His last incarnation took place on the 411th year of the Hegira, in the form of Hakim Biamer Allah, the third Fatimite caliph of Egypt, and no other appearance is to be expected till the day of judgment, which is the triumph of the true religion, and the glorification of the Unitarians or Druses. The first-born of the Creator is Intelligence, through whom, as a mediimi, all other things were created, and Hamzah is the form through -vwhich this Universal Intelli- gence ministers and mediates between Hakim and the creation. All things are, according to the Druses, moving round in the successions of a universal circle ; the number of souls is fixed, and can neither be increased nor diminished ; all things are guided by an absolute predestination, and yet so as to enter into, pervade, and succeed one another by the prin- ciple or law of transmigration. The seven commandments of Hamzah require the utterance of truth, charity towards their brethren, the renunciation of all other religions, and absolute devotion to Hakim. As to dress, manners, customs, &c., the Druses differ from the other Orientals only in the head-dress of the ladies. This is the tantoor or horn. As to material, the horn is made of dough or tin, silver or gold, according to the rank and fortune of the wearer ; as to shape, it is very like the horn of a cow, thick and massive at the root, and ending pyramidally in a sharp point ; the length varies from six THE DRUSES. inches to two feet, or two feet and a half; in the mode of wearing it the ladies are divided, some erecting it upon the head exactly in the centre, so that it rises up in rectilineal elegance between the eyes, others, preferring variety to uni- formity and Hogarth's waving line of beauty to a right ascension, fix it on in the direction of the eyebrow. This gives a pleasing variety. The horn is boimd firmly upon the head with bands under the chin ; tassels, trinkets, and ornaments descend from it in plentiful profusion upon the neck, back, and to the heels of the wearer, adding both to the expense and weight of that ponderous and most fantastic head-dress. The turbans and head-gear of the Orientals, men and women, are fixtures ; and not to be removed like our hats and bonnets at certain times and seasons diiring the day. They put ofi" the shoes, but retain the turbans. They sleep in their clothes, as in the days of Moses, and many of the Druses retain the horn during the night. This, you may easily suppose, tends more to the encouragement of life than of cleanliness. It is worse still in the deserts, where water is so scarce. The wandering Bedaween, if he be so fortunate as to have a shirt, retains it till it falls off, or perhaps walks ofi", which it certainly might do were it not for the want of imanimity, that great want in all kinds of communities. If he makes any change, it will be when he comes to a good fire, where a few benevolent shakes relieves the afflicted and backbitten Ishmaelite of not a few of his unscrupulous per- secutors. But, whatever you may think, the Druses are atti3ched to their customs, and the ladies will not give up the horn. The great prince, the Ameer Basheer, tried to efiect a change, but the ladies opposed a stubborn resistance, and the prince yielded, saying that he would not lose his crown for a horn. Then you must remember that the Druse lady, like all the women of the East, is swathed in the white *2 VARIOUS PARTICULARS. veil, from tlie top of tlie horn to the soles of the feet, so that the appearance, walking, sitting, or riding, is most fantastic and ridiculous. Some have supposed that the use of the horn as a head-dress gives the true explanation of the numerous passages of scripture which refer to it as a symbol of power. This, however, goes on the supposition that the Jews wore horns, which has never been proved. The symbol is not taken from men but from beasts, (E,ev. V. 6; xii. 3; xiii. 1, &c. ; xvii. 3, 7, &c.) The defence of the bull are his horns, , is no longer found in these fastnesses and impenetrable retreats, as in the days of old. (Cant. iv. 8.) But the leopard, ID J, ^, the Trap^akiq of the LXX, the panther of Buffbn, still shews his beautiful spots, and exercises his fierce disposition on the goodly mountain. The domestic animals are the same as in Palestine generally. The camel is not at home on the rocks and precipices of Lebanon ; his feet, soft and noiseless, his patience, his capability of doing long without water, render him the ship of the desert, and the only companion of man through the solitudes of bound- 46 ANIMALS OF LEBANON. less sand. He is used, but not extensively, on tlie mountains. The general uses of the animals are these the horse for riding, the mule for carrying burdens, the camel for the desert, the cow for ploughing, the goat for giving milk, the sheep for mutton, and the donkey for the ladies. The horse never ploughs, and as there are no carriages of any kind, he can be used only for riding. The cow in Syria is little used for milk. In Damascus you can get it, but the quality is of a very inferior kind, and the goat's is dearer and much preferred. The cow is a large, raw, high-boned, un- fattenable animal, and being regularly wrought in the cultivation of the soil the millc is bad. The Orientals eat no beef, and the swine is an utter abomination to all classes, Turks, Jews, and Christians. The ox is an invention unknown to the ancients, and has as yet made little way into the East. Dogs and cats you find everywhere. The cats are pets and fa- vourites with the Moslem ladies, as they are the mortal enemies of the serpents. I found a serpent two feet and a half long in my bedroom, which a cat had killed. In Damascus, hardly any house is free from serpents. The dogs are considered unclean, and are never domesticated in the East. They are thin, lean, fox- like animals, and always at the starving point. They Hve, breed, and die in the streets. They are useful as scavengers. They are neither fondled nor persecuted, but simply tolerated, and no dog has an owner or ever follows or accompanies a man, as the sheep do. I went out in the evening once when at Beyrout with my teacher, to enjoy the fresh air, and talk Arabic. My little EngKsh dog, the gift of a friend, followed us. "We passed through a garden where a venerable Moslem was sitting on a stone, silently and solemnly engaged in smoking his pipe. He observed the dog following us, and was astonished at it as something new and extraordinary, and rising, and making out of the way. \^LLAGES AND HOUSES. 47 he cried out, " May his father be accursed, is that a dog or a fox?" The Orientals when angry, you must observe, do not curse or abuse one another as we do, but their fathers, to the thousandth generation. They apply the same prin- ciple to animals and things. How often have I heard the donkey-driver as he gave the weary animal a thrust in the hip with the goad, (a sharp pointed stick, sometimes tipped with iron 1 Sam. xiii. 21) cry out, -,ei3^\ ^^^,_, "get on, may your father be accursed, get on." xis< y^, the father of the cannon, is the name of a fine Turkish coin, which bears the representation of a cannon. Our coins would in Oriental language be called, " the father of the harp and the crown." The same wide use of the word father is found in Scripture. 4th. The inhabitants of Lebanon, like those of the East in general, Kve in villages, and their houses are very rude and primitive in their construction ; the climate, except for a short time in winter, is mild and salubrious, and the shadow of a rock or the shade of a tree serves almost all the purposes of a house. You enter by a rude gate a little enclosed court, at the end of which two or three rooms are built in propor- tion to the family ; beams of wood and branches of trees are laid across the walls, and covered with a layer of earth ; you ascend this roof by a stone stair from the court, if you want to enjoy the air. They sleep in their clothes, and consequently have little use either for beds or bedrooms ; the kitchen is merely an angle in the court, where two or three stones are rolled together, so that a pot or tangera can rest upon them ; nor do they generally need anything more ; cooking is required only for the supper, and not always even then, so that fire, except for the pipe, is not requisite till near the evening ; they do indeed sometimes kindle fires in their houses, but, like the old Romans, they have no chimneys 48 VILLAGES AND HOUSES. to draw off the smoke, and glass is as little used in Lebanon as it was in Rome. Nothing can exceed the filth of these houses and courts ; there is little or no furniture indeed, and that is a blessing, and the floors are rarely swept, so that the mat on which you tread, and the walls and the roof are filled with inniimerable multitudes of vermin of all kinds, , cavalry, infantry, and artillery, ready for the contest. " All regarding man as their prey; All rejoicing in his decay." Before I took my family into my house in the village of Abeih, I had to cover the floor with a layer of teen, or soft wet clay, by which means we got rid of multitudes, though sufficient numbers remained to render it an imeasy though a very healthful dwelling. Do not suppose from this, that my residence on the goodly moimtain was disagreeable. Far, very far, from it. I had in me and around me almost every element of complete earthly happiness. I had health and hard labour, which since the Fall is necessary to our happiness. I breathed the pure air of the mountain, and drank the water from the rock. I had agreeable society in the American missionaries, Mr. Thomson, Mr. Whiting, Mr. Smyth, and Dr. Vandyke ; and in Mr. Black and Mr. Scott, merchants, from Beyrout. I had the opportunity, too, occasionally, of preaching the gospel to my countrymen. I had my family around me, and I cherished the pleasing hope that the Lord Jesus was preparing me for glorifying his name in the land of his humiliation, and among his brethren according to the flesh. I therefore look back to my sojourn on Lebanon with pleasure, and would speedily return to the East if I could ; nor does any part of the Lord's dealings with me seem more dark and mysterious than the circumstances which compelled me to leave Damascus. We bow without a murmur before the heavenly chasten er (Ileb, xii. 6), and seek to subordinate our will to His. He doeth all things well; love suffers, and is made perfect through suffering. " To Thee we turn ; to Thee we come for rest, Immortal Sufferer ! though now on high ; ' And John-like leaning on thy loving breast, We calmly wait our summons to the sky." CHANGE OF SCENERY. CHAPTER III. Introduction ; General Scenery : I. The Walls ; The Stones ; The Quarry. Who huilt Them ? 11. The Temples : Ist. The Little Temple described ; 2nd. The Temple of the Sun described ; 3rd. The Polytheon described. III. A historical sketch of Baalbek. IV. Reflections : 1st. The permanent Character of Localities ; 2nd. The partiality of History ; 3rd. The strength of Religious Convictions ; 4th. National Character ; 5th. An Evening We now leave tlie rich scenery of tlie goodly mountain, witli all its strange varieties of men, manners, and religious opinions. The fearful depths below, and the overhanging crags above, frighten us no more ; the piercing winds, the desert summits, and the everlasting snows have yielded to smiling valleys, cultivated gardens, and all the endearments of busy rural life. The strangest contrasts, both moral and physical, are at home on this mountain. Storm and stillness, rugged desolation and richest verdure, summer and winter, meet the traveller in the course of a few hours. The words of the poet concerning Lebanon are literally true " Whose head in wintry grandeur towers And whitens in eternal sleet, While summer in a vale of showers Is sleeping rosy at his feet." Farewell, ye Alpine rides ! I have seen much and admired much in Egypt, Italy, France, Germany, England, Scotland, and Ireland, but all must yield to these ! There is no tame- A THUNDER-STORM. ness here ; everything is perfect in its kind. The air is balm ; the rugged summits are sterility itself; the fertility of the valleys is amazing; the thistle grows by the cedar thirty- seven feet in circumference as in the days of old ; the snows are everlasting ; no leaf moves in the dead stillness, and the terrific vehemence of the thunder-storm can be described only by God himself (Psalm xxix.). Awful, indeed, are the electrical flames, which leap forth from the reverberating mountain tops ! Behold, at the distance, in the direction of the sea, a little cloud ; it is about the size of a man's hand (1 Kings xviii. 44) ; it rises higher and higher, and becomes every moment larger and larger ; the mountain attracts it, and now, black, dense, and terrible, it stands poised in mid-air, ready to discharge its thunders. Look at it steadily, there is a movement in it. And now the dark pavilion of the unknown is rent into many fragments, and the voice of God comes forth in glory and majesty ; the rain is a deluge of waters, the lightnings rend the cedars, and echo, the daughter of the hills, reverberates and prolongs the peals of thunder. Most awful, most grand, indescribable ! It is a thunder- storm on Lebanon. Give, now, one last lingering look over these hills before we leave them for ever. See all elements here, and all sweetly, nobly combined, in order to arrest the attention and expand the heart; you have sea and land, mountain and vale, wooded heights and flowing streams; valleys, villages, and busy life if you look below ; look above you, it is fierce, wild, irreclaimable desolation ; the valleys are vocal with the birds of song, and the mountain tops re-echo with the voice of God ; mean human habitations contrasted with overwhelming masses of matter ; scraps and patches of man's labour contrasted with the boundless grandeur of Jeho- vah's works. Memory is awed and excited by the associations of the past ; hope rises on eagle's wings into a glorious future ; 52 THE BAKAA. while the present sense is charmed and attracted, aroused or tranquillised, by every conceivable object of beauty, terror, and sublimity ; the great and the little, the tender and the terrible, are here and in all varieties ; forms, shapes, and distances are, to the European eye, utterly confounded and annihilated by the clearness and rarity of the air ; the near and the remote seem to blend in the circimiambient clouds ; the attractive and the repulsive, all that is awfully grand, as well as all that is elegantly little, meet and mingle in this panorama of nature, not confusedly like a work of chance, but in loveliest order and arrangement like a work of God; and then over the whole of it, beautiful, various, infinite as it is, from the snowy sumjnits to the burning base, the glorious sun of Syria, unit- ing and harmonising all, throws the radiance of his golden beams. Ye goodly mountains, farewell ! Onward, forward ! Where are we now ? We are in the Bakaa, what the Arabs designate, by way of emphasis, the valley, and the Greeks Coelo-Syria, from its being a Jiolhw, formed by nature's hand between Lebanon and Antilebanon ; to the right rises the Leontes, and flows southward into the sea at Tyre ; it is the Kasuniah of the Arabs. Away in the distance to the left rises the Orontes, and flows northward towards the former queen of the East, the rival of Rome itself and the capital of the Macedonian kings, Antioch. This river reminds you of many things, but chiefly the wastes which the tooth of time has made. The dynasty of the Seleucidee was here, and luxury, civilisation, and corruption passed their usual stages of growth, consummation, and decay. Rome felt the influ- ence of the Syrian dance and Oriental efleminacy, so that the indignant satirist (Juvenal, iii. 62) sees the Tiber sub- merged in the Orontes " Jampridem Syrus in Tyberitn defiuxit Orontes Et linguam, et mores, et cum tibicine chordas Obliquas," &c. WALL or BAALBEK. 53 But here are the ruins of Baalbek, the noblest and the most Cyclopean in the world. The position is worthy of them. Situated between Lebanon, Antilebanon, the Leontes, and the Orontes, Baalbek bears its silent testimony to reli- gious systems, architectural splendours, and political power and greatness now long past and gone. The charm of these ruins is not their extent, but their grandeur ; the ruins of Palmyra cover a far larger space, yet though very magni- ficent they make no such impression upon the traveller as Baalbek. Let us approach and examine them as minutely as brevity will allow. I. The Wall. At the north-west corner of the temple-area you first meet the Cyclopean masonry ; nine stones are built into a wall of inconceivable strength and solidity. The average dimensions of these stones are thirty-one feet long, nine feet seven inches broad, and thirteen feet deep. Pass round the corner westward, and you behold with wonder and amazement the great wall, in which one stone, the greatest indeed, measures sixty-nine feet in length, thirteen in depth, and eighteen in thickness, containing about 16,146 cubic feet, and weighing above 1,000 tons. It is one of the largest masses of rock that ever were moved by human hands ; its fellow Kes in the quarry about a mile distant, wrought into form, and ready to be removed into its destined place. But who will remove it ? It measures sixty-nine feet in length, is seventeen broad, and sixteen deep, and weighs probably 1,400 tons; a stupendous building stone ! But you are not to suppose, with some idolaters of antiqmty, that it could not be moved in modern times. This is false. Let the British Parliament give the order and the money, and Colonel Stevenson or some other engineer will place it in the city of London, as a pedestal for a statue of Queen Victoria. Falconet, a French sculptor, at the bidding of 54 BUILDERS OF BAALBEK. Catherine II. of Russia, rolled a mass of granite, forty-two feet long at the base, thirty- six at the top, twenty- one thick, and seventeen high, through a marsh four miles long, with forty men sitting on the top of it, until it reached the Neva, where it was embarked, and conveyed to the spot where it now stands in St. Petersburg, as the equestrian statue of Peter the Great. It weighs, at the least, 15,000 tons, and is probably the greatest mass of stone ever moved from place by human skill. These walls at Baalbek are, nevertheless, very astonishing ; the stones are so closely joined that the seams are scarcely ob- servable, and the contemplation of the whole ruin impresses you with combined ideas of the beautiful and the strong, the artistic and the gigantic. But who built this wall ? 1st. Tradition attributes the building of the whole, walls, temples, and all, to Solomon. This is the Baal-hamon (Song viii. 11) where Solomon had his vineyards, his palaces, and his idolatrous temples; and if the buildings seem to exceed human powers, the Moslems will tell you that Solomon was lord of the ginn or genii, who ministered on all occasions to his imperial commands. This tradition, like most other traditions, is, at least, partly false ; the three temples are not Jewish, and no rea- sonable person could ever for a moment have thought them to be so. They are idolatrous, and they are of Grecian architecture. But the wall Is it Jewish ? The great stones of the temple at Jerusalem are bevilled at the joinings in the wall, these at Baalbek are not, and in so far the origin of the wall seems not to be Jewish Besides, this must have been almost as great and expensive a waU as the temple of God itself, and yet the Scripture gives no syllable concerning it ! This is highly improbable, if it belongs to the age of Solomon. 2nd. Did the Romans build this wall ? Most people are of opinion they did. They say it is worthy of that great people ; it is like their ideas of power, fame, and perpetuity. Their THE TEMPLES. 55 roads running from the city gates in all directions, and embracing the subjugated world in an iron net, at the centre of which the imperial spider sat ready to run ; their bridges, their stupendous aqueducts, their baths, temples, and coliseums, all indicate clearly enough that Baalbek was their work. They alone had the wealth, skill, and perseverance requisite for such an undertaking. But is Cyclopean architecture characteristic of the Romans ? It is not, but belongs to an anterior age. The coliseum is indeed the most massive building ever com- pleted on earth, but it is built of small thin bricks ; the Arch of Titus is neither gigantic nor built of large stones ; nor do I remember observing very large stones in any Roman building. On the contrary, the stones of the Jerusalem Temple, the Pyramids of Egypt, the ruins of Deir il Kalla on the Lebanon, and of the great walls of Baalbek, are all Cyclopean, and seem to belong to a former age, when the ideas of force and soKdity were very little tempered by those of beauty and symmetrical forms. The characteristics of this ancient colossal architecture of the Egyptians, Syrians, Jews, and Hindoos were immovable firmness, gigantic height, solidity and splendour; and the subtile ethereal Greeks were the first to give prominence in their temples and public buildings to the ideas of simplicity, elegance, and beauty. II. The Temples. The temples are three in nimiber, and evidently belong to the same age and the same general style of architecture ; two of them were probably finished and furnished with their idol- deities, the great one certainly never was ; they are Grecian in their style, and Eoman in their origin, as is evident enough from the ruins themselves, as well as from the assertion of John of Malala, that Antoninus Pius built a temple to Jupiter, at Baalbek or Heliopolis, which was one of the wonders of the world. Inscriptions, also, in the TEMPLE OF THE SUN. Latin language, found on the foundations of the great portico, indicate that the temple was dedicated to the great gods of Heliopolis, and that for the safety of Antoninus Pius and his august mother, Julia, certain pillars were erected by the piety of the inscribers. These temples then are of Roman origin most probably. Ist. The little temple stands a few perches distant from the two larger ones, in the midst of ruins, weeping willows, and filth of every kind. It is very small, and perfectly round. The peristyle is formed by a row of pillars round about, of the most striking beauty ; these are circidar, smooth, and of exquisite elegance ; between each two pillars there is a niche for the images or gods of the heathen ; the entablature and cornice are of surpassing workmanship, and so curved a little inwards as to give the building the appearance of an octagon ; wreaths are suspended from the cornice to ornament the idols of the niches ; the door-posts are of single blocks ; the idea of the whole is simple, complete, and beautiful. It suggested to my mind the ParKament House of Dublin (the most beauti- ful Grecian building of modem times), but it is not one-foiu-th of the size. Lord Lindsay could see in the willows that surroimd it a picture of beauty weeping over genius. 2nd. The Temple of the Sun, we name it so simply for distinc- tion. This is a rectangular building, three or four times as large as the little circular temple ; the north and south sides were adorned with twenty-eight noble pillars, fourteen on each side, of which thirteen are still standing ; at the west end were eight pillars of the same dimensions, of which three are standing, and one prostrate, though tolerably perfect. This is indeed a magnificent peristyle ; the columns are composed of three blocks, the shafts perfectly round, smooth, and pro- portional; the architrave is ornate, massive, and in perfect keeping with the pillars and the rich cornice ; the carved ceil- GATEWAY OF THE TEMPLE. 67 ing of the peristyle is, in fact, an exquisite tissue of network done in stone, the massive centre being a series of circles, con- taining mythological devices of various kinds, while the angles, edges, and interstices are all filled with busts and figures of various kinds, but of exquisite beauty. These admirable pannels run round the entire building, and fill the mind with wonder as you behold them from the base of the pillars. Time seems to have done the pillars and the carving no injury ; they are as perfect as the day the building was finished. The entrance is on the east side, through a noble portico of two rows of pillars, of which only four are standing ; the pillars of the portico are distinguished from the peristyle by being fluted ; the frieze, cornice, entablature, &c., are in keeping Avith the general grandeur of the whole. The gateway or door of the temple is one of the wonders of the place ; Lord Lindsay calls it a matchless portal, and says every ornament that could be in- troduced into Corinthian architecture is lavished on it, and yet it is perfectly light and graceful. The arch is composed of nine great stones, three being at each side, and three in the centre ; the keystone has, by the earthquake which laid the temples and city in ruins, been shaken down some feet from its place, and hangs over you in a very threatening manner. An imperial eagle eyes you from above, and holds in his talons the wand of Mercury : " calidum, quidquid placuit jocosocon- dere furto:" (Hor. Kb. i. ode 10, 7) intending, to all appearance, to practise his own tricks upon the thievish messenger of the gods ; and winged genii present you with fruits and wreaths of flowers. Examine the carved work of the door-case, and observe the beauty of the design and the perfection of the execution : the vine with its fruits and flowers; ears of corn of various kinds, wrought with consummate skill in the close-grained lime- stone, and intertwined in the most elaborate manner, make up the figures and design of this noble fragment of ancient art. 58 THE POLYTHEON. The interior of the temple is ornamented with fluted pillars adhering to the walls, with arches, niches, &c., in keeping with the style and grandeur ofthe whole building. Theodosius turned it into a Christian church. 3rd. The Polytheon, or temple of the gods of Heliopolis, covers a very extensive area, and was evidently never completed. It was intended to be an open magnificent space, surrounded by walls, and embellished with pillars, niches, recesses, small temples, for the convenience of gods and men, priests and phi- losophers. Many of the ancient temples were open, uncovered biuldings ; the pantheon, the coliseum, and the great temple of the gods of HeliopoKs were of this sort, and in the genial climes of Italy and the East the shade of pillars, porticos, side pavi- lions, &c., would suffice for the comfort of the worshipper. The temple was never completed, and even the skilful architect can with difficulty trace the design ; you trace the grand entrance easily enough on the eastern side, by a flight of steps leading to the portico, flanked on either side by pavilions ; enter through the sublime portal, and you find yourself in a polygonal court, which was probably subsidiary to a second magnificent rectangle of 350 feet square, from which you pro- ceed through lofty colonnades to the portico of the Hieron, or holiest of all ; what this sanctum would have been had it been built, or how it would have been ornamented within and without, it is impossible to discover ; the courts are, however, surrounded with chambers for the ministers, and niches for the images of the gods ; small pillars and broken fragments of beautiful Egyptian granite meet you now and then in these recesses, and everywhere the sculpture is singidarly beautiful, but all these are insignificant compared with the massive fragments of pediments, pillars, and capitals which hem your path on every side ; six of these columns are indeed standing, surmoimted by their colossal architrave, rising sublimely HISTORY OF BAALBEK. 59 seventy-five feet above the ruinous desolation, and for sim- plicity, majesty, and comely proportions challenging and defying the world ; these noble limestone pillars are com- posed of three blocks each, are seven feet six inches in diameter, and stand from one another at the distance of nine feet. Seen from a distance, or in the moonlight, when dimness leaves figure and boundaries undefined, they present a still more striking appearance ; they are survivors of the general desola- tion, and claim the sympathies of the spectator as a kind of martyr- monuments. Job's messengers, who have escaped the ravages of man and time, and the earthquake shocks of ages, to tell to future generations their confused but interesting tale. III. Its History. The name i^p2 b^JI Baalbek, which in defiance of the Greek attempts to change it into Heliopolis, the City of the Sun, it still retains, shows it to be of a very early origin. Compare similar compounds in the following passages: Jud. viii. 33 ; ix. 4. Jos. ix. 17. 2 Chron. xxvi. 7. Jud. iii. 3. 1 Chron. v. 23. Numb, xxxii. 38. 1 Chron. v. 8, &c. Baal from ^n and bv (comp. r\'h}! ^^n^ Deut. xxi. 5), and denoting superiority, was applied to the man as dis- tinguished from the woman, and hence taken as ruler and lord; it was soon applied almost universally to the rulers of the invisible world, whose most glorious manifestation and representative was their sun. Baal's worship thus became imiversal,. and in the languages and monuments of the nations . can be clearly and definitely traced from Persia to Babylon, and from Babylon to the British isles. Here, however, this form of idolatry ruled supreme ; the whole valley was dedi- cated to him, and his massive temple of Cyclopean architec- ture was called Baalbek. The city was undoubtedly under the dominion of Solomon ; he may have made it one of his REFLECTIONS. store- cities, and cultivated a royal vinery in the vicinity (Song viii. 11), for lie built "Baalatli and Tadmor (Palmyra) in the wilderness, in the land" (1 Kings ix. 18), Under the Macedonian kings of Antioch it must, from its position and the fertility of the valley, have been an important place ; the Romans made it one of their military stations in the time of Augustus. Christianity, as we learn from Eusebius, made early progress in the city, and lifted up its voice against the fearful and polluting worship of Yenus and the Sun, until Constantino prohibited their beastly idolatries by an imperial edict. The city became Christian, and continued so until the conquerors from the Arabian peninsula, with the sword in the one hand and the Koran in the other, imposed upon it, after the fall of Damascus, a foreign tyranny and a false religion. Obaidah, the commander of the Moslems, treated the inhabi- tants mildly, notwithstanding their valiant defence, and the city continued an important place. Tamerlane, the Tartar, destroyed both Baalbek and Damascus in 1401; and what time and the ravages of plundering hordes left hitherto imtouched, was finally destroyed in 1759, when an earth- quake laid the city and the temples in ruins. It has now some 4,000 inhabitants, of whom the majority are Moslems ; it is the residence of a Greek bishop, and the political administration is conducted by an Amir, under the authority of the Pasha of Damascus. The whole district contains 11,000 inhabitants, and these, I may add, are in filth and wretchedness, in the midst of one of the most fertile valleys in the world. Many of the villages cannot furnish seed-corn for their fields, but must receive it from the merchants of Damascus, for which they retxim one-third of the produce in the harvest. But now let us forget, if we can, the ruins natural and moral that surround us, and indulge in a few reflections suggested by the whole subject. PARTIALITY OF HISTORY. 61 lY. 1st. We observe tliat districts as well as countries, vil- lages as well as nations, do often retain through ages, a distinc- tive character in defiance of all political and religious changes. Lebanon is still the refuge and asylum for political offenders, as it was in the days of Joshua. Jericho is still the wickedest place in the land, and no other region abounds with so many thieves (Luke x. 30). Dr. Macgowan and his son were attacked at the Sea of Galilee, by a maniac very like those whom the Lord met and healed by the same waters ; and Baalbek is no exception to the rule. The Septuagint translates the prophets of Baal by the words, TTjOo^rjrai trig aicr^vvrig (1 Kings xviii. 19, 25) the prophets of shame; see Rev. iii. 18, comp. with xvi. 15 ; Jerubaal is called (comp. Jud. vi. 32 with 2 Sam. xi. 21) Jeru-besheth, r\^2r\1D2 pu- denda. Shame; so that the expression, in the common accep- tation of the people, Baal and Shame, priests of Baal and priests of Shame, were one and the same thing ; and Eusebius testifies that the inhabitants were not only addicted to the worship of the sun, from which the city took its name (HeliopoKs), but also to Yenus, " ob fanum ArppoSirrjg A(pa- KiTi^oQ, Yeneris Aphacitidis in qua viri peregrinis quibusque uxores filiasque impune prostituebant ;" and we can testify, that in all our joumeyings through the Holy Land, or Syria in general, we have lighted upon no spot which sustains more fully its ancient character than Baalbek. 2nd. We learn the partiality of history from these ruins. Who laid these foundations ? What Angelo or Wren or Paxton conceived the splendid design of these temples? What princes, merchants, and wealthy citizens headed the subscription lists for such noble and magnificent works ? We know not. History is silent. The names of conquerors, murderers, traitors, misanthropes, &c., are carefully preserved by histor)^, but the date, the designers, and even the purpose 62 GIBBON QUESTIONED. of these Cyclopean walls are veiled in darkness. This is another proof of the " vanity of human wishes" " Why should a monument give you or me hojies When not a pinch of dust remains of Cheops?" Or are the names of Michael Angelo, Sir C. "Wren, and Sir R. Paxton, to pass away from the records of nations and languages, so that some future traveller shall examine a pillar of St. Peter's, or St. Paul's, inquiring in vain for the architect's name? Then, indeed, if our hopes of fame be placed upon earthly things, we mq.y say with the poet " But glory's glory ; and if you would find What that is, ask the pig who sees the wind." We may take occasion from this silence of history con- cerning Baalbek, to ask Mr. Gibbon a question or two. He has been pleased, in his sneering Mephistopheles manner, to suggest doubts concerning the darkness at the crucifixion, because Seneca and Pliny the elder do not mention it, although they both Kved in that age, and the latter devoted a whole chapter to earthquakes, eclipses, and supernatural occurrences. I reply, if Pliny laboured as hard as Gibbon says he did, in collecting the records of such preternatural phenomena, he must have laboured without success, for the chapter referred to contains only a few lines. But, secondly, we are told by travellers of enormous ruins at Baalbek ; building stones seventy feet long and proportionally massive ; temples of the noblest form and Grecian architecture. How is this ! should not the philosophic historian cry ? There can be no such buildings ; they are not mentioned by the philo- sophers of Greece and Rome ; according to the descriptions of these travellers, they must have been built in a philosophic age, yet no poet alludes to them, and no naturalist has men- ENDURANCE OF RELIGIOUS FEELINGS. 63 tioned even their names ; and, therefore, a philosopher may be permitted to have the benefit of a doubt concerning these supposed temples and ruins. Doubt on ! But the ruins are there! Yes, the mighty walls are there, though the histo- rians are silent ; and darkness covered the land at the cruci- fixion, though Pliny does not mention it ; and our belief in events must rest on the natural and proper evidence for them, though sceptics refuse to be convinced by it. But accuracy and fair dealing are not characteristic of would-be sophists and unbelievers, and Plato acknowledges, of philo- sophers in general, that in most cases their manners are a sufficient refutation of their speculations. IloXw /n^yiarn i^ai i^vpoTaTT] oiapoXrf yiyvTai