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PREFACE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 TWENTY-FIFTH ANNUAL EDITION. 
 
 ALL PUFFING has been avoided in the com- 
 pilation of the following pages ; whether to gratify 
 interested friends, or to improve the style by too 
 liberal a use of elegant and superlative epithets 
 often creating an expectation in the mind of the 
 stranger, which will be disappointed on the first 
 view of the object so blazoned forth with unme- 
 rited encomiums. 
 
 But though the author's aim has been through- 
 out to sketch with the strictest fidelity and sobriety 
 of colouring ; yet as scarcely two persons will ever 
 give the same measure of praise to any one object, 
 so of course will there often be a considerable 
 difference of opinion between him and his readers 
 on questions of taste and local beauty ; but it is to 
 be hoped, that however great such difference may 
 be, his veracity will not be too hastily impugned. 
 
 86714 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 This work having been twenty-four years before 
 the public, during which time it has gone through 
 as many editions, it may be repeated without arro- 
 gance or " puff," that it is indebted for its success 
 to the unvarnished style of its descriptions; a per- 
 spicuity of arrangement, and a condensation of 
 those particulars which are known from experience 
 to be most useful to THE HASTY TOURIST ; advan- 
 tages which distinguish it from its many rivals, 
 both of home and metropolitan production : to say 
 nothing of its accuracy, which must be an after- 
 test, but may be inferred by the purchaser from 
 the circumstance of the writer being an Artist, 
 and a Resident for above forty years. 
 
 Wootton Common, I.W., June, 1857. 
 
f T E IV T S . 
 
 CHAP. I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, . 9 
 
 Climate, Situation, and Extent, . 11 
 
 Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology, 14 
 
 Commerce and Population, . .18 
 
 History of the Island . . .20 
 
 Eminent Natives .... 24 
 
 CHAP. II. THE SCENERY of greatest interest. 
 
 Sect, 1. Bembridge Cliffs, . . .25 
 
 2. SHANKLIN Chine and Village, . 27 
 
 3. From Shanklin to the Undercliff, . 31 
 
 Luccombe and East End . . 
 
 4. THE UNDERCLIFF, . . .33 
 
 Bonchurch, . . . .36 
 
 Ventnor, 39 
 
 Steephill, 42 
 
 St. Lawrence, . . . .43 
 Change in the Scenery, , . 44 
 
 Old Park, Cripple-path, &c., . 45 
 Exclusion from the Country Seats, 47 
 
 5. The Undercliff near Niton . . 48 
 
 St. Catharine's Light-house, . . 49 
 Sandrock Spring, . . .50 
 
 Blackgang Chine, . . .51 
 
 Wreck of the ship " Clarendon," . 54 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Sect. 0. St. Catharine's Hill, . . .55 
 The Country between Blackgang 
 
 Chine and Freshwater-gate, . 56 
 
 7. THE FRESHWATER CLIFFS, . . 58 
 
 Freshwater Bay, . . . .60 
 
 ScratcheH's Bay Grand Arch, . 63 
 
 The Needle Rocks Alum Bay, . 64 
 
 8. Character of the Prospects, . . 67 
 
 CHAP. III. ARCHITECTURAL OBJECTS. 
 Sect. 1. The Principal Seats, . . .73 
 
 2. Carisbrooke Castle, . . .83 
 
 Quarr Abbey, . . .86 
 
 3. Conspicuous Objects on the Downs, 87 
 
 CHAP. IV. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 
 
 Newport Carisbrooke Village, . 89 
 
 Ryde and its Environs, . . 97 
 
 Cowes and its Environs, . .105 
 
 Arreton, Brading, Bembridge, c. 113 
 
 CHAP. V. THE TOURS, . . .121 
 
 from Ryde, . 122 
 
 ,, Cowes, . 124 
 
 ,, ,, ,, Newport, . 126 
 
 Voyage round the Island, . , 128 
 
 The Passage and Conveyance. LISTS of Hotels, 
 
 Inns, principal Seats and Country Villas, &c. 
 
 
V<! 
 
 ftnfrr] 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 LOCAL ADVANTAGES. 
 
 "THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND" has long 
 been a very favorite designation of the ISLE OF 
 WIGHT, and we believe but few of its visitors 
 dispute its claim to this high distinction. For it is 
 scarcely possible for any spot in Europe to con- 
 centrate, within the same narrow bounds, more of 
 those qualities which at once charm the eye and 
 animate the soul. Its picturesque scenery, its ad- 
 mirable insular position, local conveniences, mild- 
 ness and salubrity of its climate, with the very 
 cheerful aspect of the country in general, altogether 
 constitute it a most desirable retreat for both the 
 permanent resident and casual visitor, whether they 
 wish for the restoration of health, or the pursuit of 
 pleasure, the gaiety of busy life, or the tranquil- 
 lity of rural seclusion. 
 
 The boldest features of scenery are exhibited 
 along the eastern and western quarters of the island, 
 from White-cliff Bay at Bembridge, to the magnifi- 
 cent range of precipices at Freshwater-gate and the 
 
10 
 
 Needles-point : at both these places the character 
 is nearly the same grand and impressive. But 
 along the south-eastern coast> from Shanklin to 
 Blackgang Chine, the scenery is a happy combin- 
 ation of the beautiful and romantic, the sublime 
 and terrific. The greater part of this interesting 
 tract is called THE UNDERCLIFF, presenting 
 for several miles a succession of highly picturesque 
 objects, in some respects quite unique. 
 
 The interior of the island is distinguished more 
 
 O 
 
 for its agreeable interchange of hill and dale, wood 
 and cultivation, than for any very romantic or sub- 
 lime effects. But, considering the extent of the 
 island, its lofty intersecting downs (so remarkable 
 for their beauty and variety of outline) are certainly 
 quite as picturesque as the vast heaving swells of a 
 more mountainous region. Solemn magnificence 
 characterises the one, soft and cheerful diversity 
 the other. 
 
 "The almost perpetual succession of hills and 
 dales which cover the Isle of Wight," observes Mr. 
 STURCH, "creates such a variety of breaks and 
 openings, that the eye of the traveller is continually 
 entertained with new and surprising landscapes of 
 Nature's exquisite painting. It is here that the 
 love of novelty and variety, so natural to the mind 
 of man, is most highly gratified, and at an easy 
 expense; it is but changing one's position, for 
 
11 
 
 which a quarter of an hour's walk is sufficient, 
 and the scene is cast into a new form ; it is varied 
 by so many new lines and new disclosures of land 
 and water, that it no longer appears to be the same 
 thing." 
 
 
 I 
 
 A. great and INCREASING source of attraction, es- 
 pecially to invalids, is the very favorable 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 Constantly enjoying refreshing sea-breezes, im- 
 proved by the dry and highly-cultivated face of the 
 country, the Amis found by experience to be ex- 
 tremely salubrious. In open, elevated situations, 
 it is clear, sharp, and bracing ; but in all those parts 
 which are screened by high downs and cliffs, it is 
 remarkably mild, yet pure and dry : so that inva- 
 lids and convalescents may easily avail themselves 
 of a change of air, more congenial to their consti- 
 tutions. It is a common remark, in proof of the 
 mild temperature of the climate, "that myrtles, 
 which love a soft marine exposure, are found to 
 grow here with astonishing luxuriance, and even 
 tender exotics thrive as if in their native beds." 
 
 Dr. JAMES CLARKE, in his excellent Treatise 
 on the Influence of Climate in the Cure of Chronic 
 disorders, confirms the popular opinion : he says... 
 
 "The island, from the variety which it presents 
 in point of elevation, soil, and aspect, and from 
 
12 
 
 the configuration of its hills and shores, possesses 
 several peculiarities of climate and situation, which 
 render it a verv favorable and commodious resi- 
 
 v 
 
 dence throughout the year, for a large class of in- 
 valids. On this account the Isle of Wight claims 
 our particular attention, as it comprehends within 
 itself advantages which are of great value to the 
 delicate invalid, and to obtain which, in almost 
 any other part of England, he would require to 
 make a considerable journey." 
 
 And he further remarks, that "the Undercliff 
 bids fair to exceed all other winter residences in 
 this country, and the Isle of Wight will have added 
 to its title of the Garden of England, that of the 
 BRITISH MADEIRA." 
 
 Niton, Cowes, Sandown, Shanklin, and Ryde, 
 are particularly recommended by Dr. Clarke for 
 summer residences. 
 
 Situation, Form, Extent, fyc. 
 
 The Isle of Wight is situated opposite the coast 
 of Hampshire, and separated by a beautiful channel 
 called the SOLENT SEA, of the average breadth of 
 about 4^miles: it is bounded on the south by the 
 British Channel, and is reckoned twenty leagues 
 distant from Cherbourg, the nearest part of the 
 French Coast. 
 
 The form of the Island is an irregular lozenge, 
 measuring 23 miles from east to west, and 13 miles 
 

 
 13 
 
 from north to south. Its circumference is about 
 sixty miles, and the superficial contents upwards 
 of 100,000 acres. 
 
 The island is almost encompassed by formidable 
 rocks and shelves, of which the most noted are the 
 Needles and Shingles, at the western point ; Rock- 
 en-end Race at the south, and Bernbridge Ledge 
 at the eastern extremity. No part of the British 
 coast is more dangerous to vessels ungoverned and 
 driving in a storm ; and scarcely a winter passes 
 without the melancholy catastrophe of shipwreck, 
 especially along the southern shore, off Blackgang 
 Chine, Atherfield, Brooke, or Compton. 
 
 In those places where the shore is low and accessible, as 
 at Yarmouth, Cowes, and Sandown, military fortifications 
 have been established since the time of Henry VIII : these, 
 from the proximity of the grand naval stations of Spithead and 
 St. Helen's, have been considered of no practical utility, and 
 like Carisbrooke castle, mere sinecures; the government 
 however would appear to entertain a different opinion, from 
 the fact of the year 1853 dating the erection of an extensive 
 fort at Carey's-sconce, the site of an ancient battery, west- 
 ward of Yarmouth. And it is a question whether the others 
 may not receive some very considerable alterations. 
 
 Geological and Agricultural Remarks. 
 "The island affords many rare and quite singular 
 geological phenomena ; and is, from its smallness 
 and the nature of its coasts, peculiarly adapted for 
 the investigation of its structure." The following 
 concise description of the strata, on the authority 
 
1.4 
 
 ofW.D.SAULL, Esq., F.G.S., F.S.A. &c., will suffi- 
 ciently indicate to the geological reader, the prin- 
 cipal fields for his research. 
 
 DILUVIUM & ALLUVIUM. Spread on the top and the vallies 
 over all the lower parts of the Island : consisting of rol- 
 led pebhles, sands, loam and the vegetable soil. 
 
 UPPER FRESHWATER & LAND. Binstead, Quarr <fcc. Teeth 
 and bones of the Anoplotherium, Paleotherium <fcc ., Ca- 
 rapace of Turtle. Many Freshwater shells. 
 
 UPPER MARINE. Headon Hill, <kc. Sand and many small 
 shells. 
 
 LOWER FRESHWATER. Headon Hill, Cowes, and neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 LOWER MARINE, Sands &c. full of shells. Headon Hill, Tot- 
 land Bay, Cowes, <fcc. 
 
 LONDON CLAY. Well developed in Alum Bay, & northward. 
 
 PLASTIC CLAYS and Sands. Alum Bay (much variegated), 
 Whitecliff Bay, &c. 
 
 UPPER and MIDDLE CHALK, comprising the highest hills 
 throughout the island. 
 
 CHALK MARL and LOWER CHALK, the basement or bottom 
 of chalk in the island. 
 
 MALM ROCK, or UPPER GREENSAND. Undercliff, landslips. 
 GAULT. Seen in a few places along the Undercliff 
 LOWER GREENSAND. Sandown Bay; Shanklin; on the S.W. 
 
 coast ; the basis of Arreton down, and that part of the 
 
 island. The most abundant in Fossils. 
 THE WEALDON, the same as in Sussex. Near Sandown, but 
 
 more extensive on the other side of the island at Brook. 
 
 Containing the bones of the Iguanidon, &c., with large 
 
 masses of fossil wood. 
 HASTINGS SANDS, which appear to be the basis of the island 
 
 generally, for I have not been able to discover any trace 
 
 of the Oolitic beds. 
 
 " The most extraordinary circumstance in the geological 
 structure of the Isle of Wight, is a series of strata, vertical 
 or highly inclined, which runs across the middle of it from 
 east to west, the parts on either side being composed of 
 horizontal strata. 
 
15 
 
 "This series, beginning at the north side, consists of the 
 very thick stratum of clay and sand observable at Alum Bay, 
 the flinty chalk, the chalk without flints, the chalk-marie, 
 the green sandstone with limestone and chert, the dark grey 
 marie, and the ferruginous sand. All these are very dis- 
 tinctly observable at the promontory of the Culver, at the 
 east end of the island ; and again at Alum Bay, the Needles, 
 and Compton Bay, at the west end ; the position of the strata 
 being nearly the same in all these places. 
 
 "This series of nearly vertical strata, though less evident 
 in the interior of the island, may easily be recognised by the 
 attentive observer in various parts. At Yaverland and Bra- 
 ding Downs the chalk and green sandstone may be advanta- 
 geously examined. At Arreton the former stratum only is 
 visible. At St. George's Down, Mountjoy, and Carisbrooke, 
 the highly inclined chalk is distinctly perceived, and the ver- 
 tical clay may also be noticed at one place. From this to 
 the Needles, a series of chalk-pits in the sides of the hills 
 exhibits in a satisfactory manner the same structure, accom- 
 panied with similar phenomena." Sir H. ENGLEFIELD. 
 
 The finest white sand in the kingdom is obtained 
 from the sea-cliffs of Alum Bav, and is carried in 
 
 */ * 
 
 great quantities to the glass and porcelain manu- 
 factories of London, Bristol, and Worcester. 
 
 Good Stone of various qualities is also found in 
 most parts of the island, and with that produced 
 from the quarries of Binstead, the body of Win- 
 chester Cathedral was built. All the houses along 
 the Undercliff are constructed with a beautiful kind 
 of freestone procured on the spot. 
 
 A range of chalk hills stretches from east to west 
 the whole extent of the island, dividing it into two 
 
16 
 
 nearly distinct regions, the soil and strata of which 
 are essentially different, a stiff clay predominating 
 on the north side, which is extensively covered with 
 wood : while the south side is principally of a light 
 sandy soil or mellow loam, and being exceedingly 
 fertile, the whole tract is almost exclusively employ- 
 ed in tillage. The island affords a great diversity 
 of soil, yet is upon the whole well calculated for 
 farming, which indeed may be inferred from its pro- 
 verbial fertility. Pasture and meadow land is gen- 
 erally very rich. Farms are mostly of moderate 
 size, managed by an intelligent class of men, who 
 as far as practicable, keep pace with the advance- 
 ments of agriculture. 
 
 The extensive downs of the island afford excellent 
 pasture for sheep, whose wool is of a staple not in- 
 ferior to that produced on the South Downs. Oxen 
 are reared in number nearly sufficient for the use of 
 the inhabitants: and a great quantity of lambs are 
 annually sent to the London markets. 
 
 The demands of the dock-yards both here and at 
 Portsmouth, have greatly thinned the timber of the 
 island, which is principally oak and elm, and found 
 to grow most luxuriantly in the wooded tract from 
 
 East Cowes to St. Helen's. 
 
 In the time of King Charles II, woods were so extensive 
 in the island, that it is recorded, a squirrel might have run 
 on the tops of the trees from Gurnard to Carisbrooke, and 
 in many other parts for leagues together. 
 
17 
 
 Zoological Particulars. 
 
 FISH of every kind common to the southern coast 
 of England is caught off the island, but not in that 
 abundance which might be expected, except crabs 
 and lobsters, which are uncommonly large and fine. 
 Mackarel are some seasons extremely plentiful, small 
 but peculiarly sweet. Numbers of porpoises are 
 seen rolling along in the Solent Sea and Southamp- 
 ton Water; sharks are frequently observed off the 
 back of the island : and sometimes even the gram- 
 pus pursuing its prey. In 1814, a large whale was 
 taken on the Shingles, west of the Needle Rocks, 
 having been left aground by the ebbing tide ; and 
 another near the same spot in 1841, whose prodi- 
 gious and highly interesting skeleton, upwards of 
 eighty feet in length ! is now carefully preserved at 
 Blackgang. 
 
 GAME is tolerably abundant, owing "to the care 
 of Sir E. Horsey, governor in 1582, who is report- 
 ed to have given a lamb for every living hare brought 
 to him from the neighbouring counties." It is very 
 remarkable there are no polecats nor badgers ; otters 
 are occasionally seen ; foxes were introduced only a 
 ew years since, for the pleasures of the chace, and 
 notwithstanding their numerous enemies, have so 
 increased as to give full employment to an excellent 
 
 subscription pack of hounds. 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 Astonishing numbers of sea-fowl resort during the 
 summer to the cliffs of Freshwater and Bembridge, 
 in the latter even the eagle has built its eyry. 
 
 Commerce and Population* 
 
 The only manufacture of consequence carried on 
 in the island is at the lace- factory near Newport, 
 which gives employment to several hundred persons. 
 Corn is the staple article of trade. A great quantity 
 of salt is made, part of which is exported. The im- 
 ports are deals, iron, coals &c. There are 39 corn- 
 mills (35 water), and several large breweries. 
 
 The constant intercourse which the inhabitants have with 
 persons from all parts of the kingdom, has entirely erased 
 any insular peculiarity which might have formerly existed. 
 But the following extract from the Memoirs of Sir John Og- 
 lander, which were written about the year 1TOO, exhibits a 
 most amusing picture of the simplicity of manners which 
 characterised the islanders of the 16th century. " I have 
 heard," says Sir John, "and partly knowe it to be true, that 
 not only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney in owre 
 island, but in Sir George Carey's time (1588) an attorney 
 coming in to settle in the island, was by his command, with 
 a pound of candles hanging lighted, with bells about his legs, 
 hunted owte of the island ; insomuch that owre ancestors 
 lived here so quietly and securely being neither troubled to 
 London nor Winchester, so when they went to London (think- 
 ing it an East India voyage), they always made their wills, 
 supposing no trouble like to travaile." 
 
 The river Medina, whose source is in the south, 
 is navigable from Newport to Cowes, and divides 
 
19 
 
 the island into two hundreds of nearly equal extent, 
 respectively called the East and West Medene : the 
 first comprising 14, the latter 16 parishes. 
 
 The stationary population of the island is rapidly 
 increasing ; the number of inhabitants in the year 
 
 1802 being 22,602 1831 35,431 
 
 1811 25,338 1841 42,547 
 
 1821 31,611 1851 49,879 
 
 or considerably more than doubled in fifty years. 
 
 (Copulation of tfjc Esle of 
 1851. 
 EAST MEDENE. 
 J 
 
 Parishes 
 
 rreton . . 
 
 Binstead . . 
 onchurch 
 rading . . 
 
 Godshill . . 
 ewchurch 
 iton . . 
 
 . 384 
 
 . 68 
 
 . . 74 
 
 .661 
 
 . 237 
 
 2146 
 
 146 
 
 Inhab. Parishes Houses 
 
 Inhab. 
 
 1902 
 
 St. Helen's . . 454 
 
 1948 
 
 317 
 
 St. Lawrence . 25 
 
 111 
 
 523 
 
 Shanklin .... 78 
 
 355 
 
 3046 
 
 "Whippingham 644 
 
 3101 
 
 1296 
 
 Whitwell ... 126 
 
 637 
 
 11549 
 
 Wootton . . . . 11 
 
 58 
 
 684 
 
 Yaverland ... 14 
 
 78 
 
 WEST MEDENE. 
 
 rixton . . .141 
 
 rooke 32 
 
 Calbourne . . 158 
 'arisbrooke .1191 
 
 hale 124 
 
 reshwater . . 278 
 atcombe ... 43 
 ingston .... 10 
 
 lyde and Ventnor in Ncw- 
 :hurch. Cowes, Northwood 
 
 695 
 
 Mottistone . 
 
 . . 32 
 
 157 
 
 143 
 
 781 
 
 Newport with 
 St. Nicholas 
 
 JS78 
 
 4259 
 
 7630 
 
 Northwood . 
 
 1098 
 
 5612 
 
 629 
 
 Shalfleet . 
 
 260 
 
 1245 
 
 1393 
 
 Shorwell . 
 
 . 138 
 
 678 
 
 260 
 
 Thorley . 
 
 . 28 
 
 154 
 
 65 
 
 tfow- 
 
 Yarmouth 
 
 . 119 
 
 573 
 
 TOTAL 
 
 9598 49879 
 
 VECTA or VECTIS was the name given to the 
 island by the Romans ; but the modern appellation 
 
20 
 
 is derived from WECT, WITH, or WICT, as it is 
 found variously written in Doomsday Book. 
 
 The island is imagined by many to hare once formed 
 part of the main land ; and to have been in the time of the 
 Romans, a peninsula joined by an isthmus passable at low 
 water, This supposed isthmus was from Gurnet (a mile west 
 of Cowes,) to a place on the opposite shore called Leap, 
 where the channel is not more than about three miles across. 
 
 THE HISTORY 
 
 Of the island presents nothing very remarkable 
 other than is to be found in the general annals of 
 the kingdom ; and the relation of its peculiar suf- 
 ferings by predatory descents and invasions, forms 
 only a broken and comparatively uninteresting nar- 
 rative. 
 
 It was first invaded by the Romans, A.D. 43 : but the con- 
 querors seem to have been under no apprehension of the in- 
 habitants, as not the least trace of their usual fortifications 
 has been discovered. 
 
 In the years 495 and 661, it was attacked by the Saxons, 
 who with their usual ferocity, murdered most of the natives, 
 or laid waste the country, till it was subjected by Ceadwalla, 
 who formed the sanguinary resolution of exterminating the 
 pagan inhabitants, unless they immediately consented to em- 
 brace Christianity ! 
 
 In the ninth century the island was frequently surprised 
 by Danish pirates, either for the sake of plunder, or to make 
 it a place of retreat. On one occasion, however, as they were 
 sailing off with a large booty, they were overtaken by king Al- 
 fred, and only one of many vessels escaped his vengeance. 
 
 
: 
 
 ; 
 i 
 
 21 
 
 1066 1346.] For nearly three centuries it seems to have 
 enjoyed a state of tranquillity, till its repose was disturbed by 
 the French, who effected a landing at St. Helens, but were 
 soon repulsed. About this time a variety of excellent regu- 
 lations were made by the inhabitants for their better security : 
 the landholders were by their tenures bound to defend the 
 castle of Carisbrooke for 40 days at their own charges : the 
 county of Devon sent for its defence 76 men-at-arms, and the 
 city of London 300 slingers and bowmen. 
 
 Although invasions were frequently menaced, the place 
 continued unmolested till the year 1377, when it was again in- 
 vaded by the French ; there were then no forts to obstruct 
 their landing, and Carisbrooke Castle standing in the centre 
 f the island could only serve for a retreat. This want of do- 
 mestic security so discouraged the natives, that many families 
 withdrew, when an order was issued to the wardens to seize 
 he lands of all such as refused to return. 
 
 1403.] The preparations of the French having given 
 timely notice of their hostile intentions, the militia of the 
 island which then consisted of 900 men, was reinforced from 
 Southampton and London. On the landing of the enemy, the 
 people fled for refuge to Carisbrooke Castle, which was de- 
 fended by Sir Hugh Tyrrel, who slew a great number of the 
 assailants. During the siege, a party of the French fell into 
 an ambuscade and were cut to pieces : the place is still called 
 Deadman's lane, and a tumulus where the slain were buried, 
 was exultingly called Noddies' Hill, now covered by Node- 
 hill, the southern avenue to Newport. The French, unable 
 to subdue the castle, at length withdrew ; but before they re- 
 embarked, obliged the inhabitants to redeem their houses 
 from being burned, by a contribution of 1000 marks, and also 
 bound them by oath not to resist, should they revisit the is- 
 land within a year. 
 
 1420.] About this time the place was twice attacked by 
 the French ; on the first occasion they were soon repulsed, 
 
22 
 
 and on the second, making a threatening demand of a sub- 
 sidy, were treated with derision by the islanders. 
 
 While the rest of the kingdom was alternately ravaged by 
 the partisans of the houses of York and Lancaster, the remote 
 situation of the island procured it an exemption from the ca- 
 lamities of civil war : nor was its tranquillity disturbed by the 
 French, till the year 1545, when above 2000 of them made a 
 descent : but being disappointed in their object of keeping 
 possession of the island, they proceeded to pillage and burn 
 the villages until they were attacked by the natives, who 
 soon drove them back to their ships with considerable loss. 
 
 To secure the coast from the like insults, several forts 
 were constructed in different places by order of king Henry 
 VIII; these, though at present of little use, were at that time 
 deemed of great importance. But the island was afterwards 
 more effectually guarded by the naval strength of England, 
 which was augmented by queen Elizabeth to a degree before 
 unknown, and thenceforth was secured from the calamities 
 of foreign invasion. To provide a train of artillery, every 
 parish had to furnish a small piece of ordnance ; we regret 
 to state that the one remaining at Carisbrooke, has been re- 
 cently sold for its value as old brass ! 
 
 At the time when the peace of the nation was destroyed 
 by the division between king Charles I and the parliament, 
 its situation happily preserved it from the scenes of hostility 
 between the troops ; but so important a contest could not but 
 interest all men in the event. At first, the inhabitants ma- 
 nifested a zeal in the king's favour, but the fickle populace 
 changing, Carisbrooke Castle and the other forts were seized 
 by the opposite party ; and on the arrival of the Earl of Pem- 
 broke, the gentlemen and principal farmers assembled at 
 Cowes, and tendered him their best services. The inhabit- 
 ants having thus taken a decisive step in closing with the pre- 
 railing power, remained undisturbed spectators of the ensuing 
 commotions, till the king injudiciously sought here an asylum. 
 
.DC 
 
 : 
 
 23 
 
 Nov. 12, 1647.] On the first arrival of the king in the 
 island, the governor, Colonel Hammond, lodged him in Caris- 
 brooke Castle, not as a prisoner, but as a guest : there ap- 
 peared not the least restraint on his actions ; he rode when 
 and where he pleased ; his servants were permitted to repair 
 to him ; and all who desired it were admitted to his presence 
 without distinction. His liberty however was soon abridged : 
 his confidential servants removed ; and himself confined to 
 the walls of the castle. Several unsuccessful attempts were 
 made to liberate him by a few of his friends, which only 
 served as a pretext to increase the rigors of his confinement. 
 But during the time of the Treaty of Newport, he was so far 
 leased as to be a prisoner at large on his parole, till the ar- 
 y suddenly put an end to the negociation, by seizing and 
 imprisoning him in Hurst Castle, the final catastrophe of 
 which affair is well known. 
 
 During the civil war, the island enjoyed a much happier 
 state than any other part of the kingdom, which invited many 
 families to retire hither : a circumstance that for the time 
 ose the farm-rents in the proportion of 20 per cent. Subse- 
 uently the local history presents nothing interesting. 
 The absolute lordship of the Isle of Wight was given by 
 illiam the Conqueror to one William Fitz-Osborne, as a 
 ward for his services at the battle of Hastings ; but in con- 
 quence of the defection of his descendant, it was resumed 
 y the Crown. Henry I. granted it to the Earl of Devon, in 
 hose family it long continued, till the alienation of it was 
 iraftily obtained by Edward I. for a trifling sum. The last 
 ant was to Edward de Woodville in 1485, whose popularity 
 as sufficient to enable him to select 440 of the inhabitants 
 join him in his unfortunate expedition to Brittany. The 
 isastrous results of the battle of St. Aubin's, from which 
 ne boy alone escaped, threw almost every family in the is- 
 nd into mourning. From which time there have been suc- 
 essively appointed by the Crown, wardens, captains and 
 governors of the island. 
 
24 
 
 It is an amusing circumstance in the history of this little 
 spot, that it had once the high-sounding honor of having a 
 King of its own ! for the Duke of Warwick was so crowned 
 by the hands of Henry VI. in the year 1444, but it would 
 seem that the glory of the name was all which his Vectis Ma- 
 jesty derived from his accession. 
 
 EMINENT NA TIVES. 
 
 We cannot, perhaps, close this miscellaneous 
 chapter better than by giving a list of the most 
 celebrated natives of the Isle of Wight. 
 
 Sir JOHN CHEEKE, Knt., one of the most learned and in- 
 genious, as well as virtuous, men of his time : he was tutor 
 to prince Edward VI, and descended from a respectable 
 family at Mottistone. 
 
 Rev. HENRY COLE, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's : born at 
 Godshill. Flourished about the middle of the 16th century, 
 and shone in divinity and literature. 
 
 THOMAS JAMES, D.D., a learned divine and antiquary : he 
 was esteemed, from his extensive erudition, a living library. 
 Born at Newport, died anno 1629. 
 
 ROBERT HOOK, M.D., celebrated for his extraordinary 
 inventive powers in almost every branch of art and science ; 
 he was the inventor of the original pendulum-spring of a 
 watch. Born at Freshwater: flourished in the 17th century. 
 
 Admiral HOBSON, rose by his skill and courage from the 
 obscurity of a tailor's parish-apprentice, to be one of the 
 first naval commanders in the reign of Queen Anne. The 
 little village of Bonchurch claims the honor of his birth-place. 
 
w . 
 'o 
 
 m 
 
 en 
 W 
 
 

CHAPTER IT. 
 
 THE MOST INTERESTING PARTS OF THE ISLAND 
 
 IN RESPECT OF 
 
 THE SCENERY, 
 
 [For the sake merely of an easy reference to the subjects 
 under this head by Tourists from any part of the island, we 
 shall commence our description at the eastern quarter, and 
 proceed round by the southern coast to the western extrem- 
 r, thus embracing all the more emphatically ROMANTIC and 
 LiME objects. But with respect to the northern side, lit- 
 can be said more than is stated under Cowes and Ryde 
 lose scenery affords the liveliest interest, in combination 
 with the ever-varying pictures of marine life. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 CLIFFS. 
 
 These far- seen and celebrated precipices rank 
 igh in the proud characteristic scenery or our coast 
 the white cliffs of Albion. Rising at once from 
 the sea with an almost perpendicular face to a sub- 
 lime elevation, and the chalk being of the most daz- 
 ling whiteness, except where occasionally relieved 
 y mantling samphire and the mellowing hand of 
 ime in the more permanent slopes, they present a 
 ruly majestic aspect in either a tranquil or a tern- 
 estuous state of the weather ; but especially if 
 iewed at a little distance off on a calm day, when 
 
 D 
 
26 
 
 the sun's rays fall in an oblique direction : for then 
 no stranger to this impressive species of scenery 
 could possibly imagine the bold effects of light and 
 shade, the beautiful, the romantic, and even "ele- 
 gant" configuration which marks more or less every 
 salient crag and towering precipice, or the brilliant 
 contrasts in the coloring of the seaand cliff combined. 
 
 We would particularly point out one spot that is 
 easily accessible to pedestrians WHITECLIFF BAY 
 (the nearest to the ferry at Bembridge) : a beau- 
 tiful scene in our opinion ; and if visited at low 
 tide, so much the more pleasant. There is also a 
 small cavern called Hermit's Hole in the face of the 
 cliffs (more round the point), about 30 feet from 
 the top, the descent to which, though perhaps ra- 
 ther dangerous, is tolerably easy. 
 
 This is nearly the easternmost part of the island, 
 as Freshwater is the most western, both places 
 being almost identical in their geological character, 
 for in fact they are but the termini of the range 
 of chalk downs that stretch the length of the island 
 and it is remarkable that at Bembridge the chalk 
 is supported on either side by earthy cliffs of dif- 
 ferent colors, similar to those at Freshwater, though 
 
 not of so bright and varied hues. By mariners 
 
 these cliffs are better known as " THE CULVERS," 
 an old designation, derived from their having been 
 the resort of vast numbers of pigeons : in the time 
 
27 
 
 of queen Elizabeth they were also famous for a 
 particular breed of hawks : arid are still frequented 
 in the summer-season by a great variety of sea- 
 fowl. Even the eagle has been known to make its 
 eyry in the more inaccessible crags. 
 
 It is to be regretted, that its situation on the south side 
 of the peninsula of Bembridge, and at nearly two miles dis- 
 tance from the town and ferry, render it often too incon- 
 venient for parties of limited time to visit this interesting 
 quarter ; but to those staying a week or two at Ryde, it 
 affords a most delightful aquatic trip landing in some of 
 
 e charming sheltered coves, and if sketchers, fond of 
 rocky scenery, they will find many attractive subjects for 
 a bold and ready pencil. 
 
 To the next object of scenic importance is about four 
 miles (passing Yaverlandand Sandown, noticed hereafter). 
 But this distance is far from being uninteresting, for we 
 shall have constantly a gratifying prospect of Sandown Bay, 
 making a noble sweep of several miles, bounded on the 
 north by the white cliffs of Bembridge, and towards the soutli 
 by the frowning precipices of Shanklin and Dunnose. 
 
 ^' 
 SHANKXZN CHINE, 
 
 One of the most attractive scenes in the island, 
 being of considerable extent, and universally ad- 
 mired for its romantic character. 
 
 This beautiful chasm owes its origin to a small 
 stream of water whose source is in the higher part 
 of the valley, a little above the church. After me- 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
28 
 
 andering for nearly a mile, under the shade of luxu- 
 riant oaks, ashes, and elms, in some parts in a deep 
 channel almost hidden by overhanging trees and 
 underwood, it at length arrives at the HEAD OF 
 THE CHINE, where it precipitates itself over a 
 ledge of the sand-cliff in a beautiful cascade of 
 above 30 feet. As a proof of the wasting effects 
 of this streamlet, and consequent gradual enlarge- 
 ment of the chasm in the course of centuries, it is 
 only necessary to state the fact of the fall having 
 been removed nearly ten yards higher up in the 
 space of as many years, previous to the propri- 
 etor having resorted to the aid of masonry to resist 
 its further progress From the fall, the chine takes 
 a bold serpentine course for about a quarter of a 
 mile, gradually increasing till it reaches the sea- 
 shore, where it is nearly 200 feet high, and about 
 100 yards wide at the top, more or less abruptly 
 contracting to the bed of the stream. 
 
 The sides of this romantic chasm present a 
 striking contrast: the one being an almost perpen- 
 dicular cliff of mouldering sand -rock, with com- 
 paratively little vegetation to relieve its sombre 
 hue; while the other is more shelving, broken, 
 and of a glowing tint ; richly clothed with hanging- 
 trees or wild brushwood ; and enlivened by the 
 presence of two comfortable rustic cottages, one 
 which lets well during the summer for lodgings, 
 

29 
 
 and the other a public-house, both resting on nar- 
 row terraces a little above each other : while a 
 third, of a more imposing figure, stands directly 
 on the brink of the precipice, and has, from the 
 boldness of its site, an uncommonly picturesque 
 effect On the beach are several tasty lodging- 
 houses, one would fancy in a most jeopardous situ- 
 ation, liable to be washed away by the swelling 
 tides, or buried in by the foundering cliff. 
 
 The usual descent to the chine is by a rude wind- 
 ing path in the sea-cliffs, near the public-house. 
 After a short saunter under the majestic face of the 
 towering precipices, we should return to explore the 
 cene : and having reached the water -fall, we can 
 here take our leave, through a wicket that opens 
 the road : or retrace our devious path, for the 
 leasure of seeing the place in different points of 
 view. 
 
 The term Chine is a provincialism (supposed to be de- 
 rived from the common expression for a cleft in the ridge 
 of an animal's back), designating those chasms and ravine* 
 eo frequent in the earthy cliffs along our coast. They owe 
 their origin, it is considered, to small streams of water, 
 which in the course of ages have gradually deepened the 
 eds of their channels, and thence occasioned great masses 
 f earth to founder in, especially during severe winters. 
 
 THE VILLAGE OF SHANKLIN 
 
 ts generally considered extremely pretty, and the 
 locality delightfully rural, independently of its 
 
30 
 
 grand attractive feature, the chine. It has a very 
 rich soil, and a bold undulating surface, adorned 
 with scattered groups of magnificent trees, and a 
 profusion of flowering shrubs : it is well sheltered 
 too by high downs enriched by cultivation and 
 hanging groves, although standing nearly 300 feet 
 above the sea, and hence it commands a delightful 
 
 * O 
 
 land and marine prospect. 
 
 From its increasing popularity, there has been 
 a considerable accession to the number of lodging- 
 houses, especially in the upper part of the village, 
 where they are mostly large and commodious ; those 
 however in the lower part have in general less pre- 
 tensions, except in the charms of shelter, and it 
 has been proved that for a mild and equal climate, 
 it ranks with the most favored spots of the Under- 
 cliff itself. 
 
 The beach too is about the finest on the coast, 
 being a firm dark -colored sand, of several miles 
 extent, interspersed with rocks, and overhung by 
 sublime precipices of almost every hue. 
 
 There are two excellent Hotels, with places of 
 minor accommodation, and a few pleasing genteel 
 private residences. The PARSONAGE is remarkable 
 for the luxuriant growth of myrtles which envelop 
 its walls, and are found to stand the severest winter 
 without protection. 
 
 
31 
 
 The church is an uninteresting object in itself, 
 but forms an agreeable feature in the general land- 
 scape: is passed on our road to Bonchurch. 
 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 From Shanklin to the Under cliff. 
 
 DIRECTING our course now to the Undercliff, 
 e pass the church, and wind gradually up the 
 steep side of the down, between a copse and several 
 beautiful groups of ancient oak and ash. Having 
 reached the lofty summit, we should pause, for the 
 purpose of contemplating the magnificent and 
 splendid prospect which opens around. 
 
 Or, if the tourist be a tolerable pedestrian, he 
 will find it more gratifying to proceed by Luccombe 
 through East End to Bonchurch, on the foot-path 
 near the verge of the precipice, directly overlook- 
 ing the sea : the distance is about two miles. 
 
 C7 
 
 ' Lord of my time, my devious path I bend 
 Through fringy woodland or smooth-shaven lawn ; 
 Or pensile grove, or airy cliff ascend, 
 And hail the scene by Nature's pencil drawn." 
 
 LUCCOMBE CHINE 
 
 Ranks among the prominent beauties of the island; 
 but being of a character similar to Shanklin, and 
 greatly inferior in extent and beauty, it is not of 
 course so frequently visited. Still, however, if the 
 
32 
 
 picturesque tourist have time to spare, it will repay 
 him well for the trouble of a descent to the shore. 
 A gentleman's Cottage, appropriately built in the 
 old-English style, and thatched, stands at the head 
 of the Chine, and contributes much to the pleasing 
 effect of the scene. 
 
 CAUTION TO VISITORS. 
 
 It is no uncommon circumstance for strangers to 
 be hurried by some of the drivers through the 
 most delightful passages of scenery : and hence 
 form an opinion much below the real merits of the 
 place. This is often the case in passing.... 
 
 CAST END; 
 
 Which lies a little below, and yet is quite concealed 
 from, the public highway. Here the landscape 
 is more romantically wild than in any other part 
 of the UnderclifF (of which in fact it is the begin- 
 ning) : and, what is of no little consequence to the 
 inquiring traveller, affords an excellent opportunity 
 for examining the apparent cause of the very sin- 
 gular character which marks the whole of this inte- 
 resting tract. It may be observed here by the way, 
 that Nature having spontaneously thrown a soft 
 mantle of vegetation over the greater part of the 
 last landslip (1818), only a faint idea can now be 
 formed of the terrific picture of desolation which the 
 place presented for some time after the occurrence. 
 
33 
 
 The visitor is therefore particularly recommended 
 to quit his vehicle at Lucco-nibe, and follow the 
 foot-path which winds through East End, till he 
 reaches Bonchurch (altogether about a mile,) where 
 
 his carriage will be ready to receive him. But 
 
 should the party find it inconvenient to adopt this 
 course, still it would be very gratifying to alight at 
 the proper place, and cautiously approaching the 
 margin of the precipice, look down on the wild 
 scene below. 
 
 SECT. IV. 
 
 THE UNlDERCiLIFF, 
 
 From Bonchurch to Puckaster. 
 
 THIS is considered by many visitors as the most 
 interesting part of the island, and presents a great 
 diversity of wild and beautiful scenery : in fact, 
 every material of picturesque composition in the 
 appiest arrangement. 
 
 The Undercliff reaches from East End to Black- 
 gang Chine, an extent of above seven miles ; but, 
 as the late Rev. P. Wyndham affirms, " they are 
 such miles as are not to be paralleled for their 
 singularity, perhaps in the whole world." 
 
 The PECULIAR and highly romantic character of 
 his delightful country is no doubt originally owing 
 o a succession of formidable landslips that must 
 ave taken place in the course of many ages, pro- 
 
 . 
 
34 
 
 ducing, at the time of their occurrence, nearly the 
 same destructive results as the shocks of a tremen- 
 dous earthquake ; but by the gradual dispersion of 
 different shrubs and mantling vegetation, all the 
 most dreary and terrific impressions are soon obli- 
 terated, or converted into positive beauties. 
 
 The cause of these landslips is this : the subtra- 
 tum for the greater part of theUndercliff is a bluish 
 kind of marie, of a very loose and absorbent tex- 
 ture, which, when saturated by heavy rains and 
 land-soaks, becomes the consistence of mud ; at the 
 same time the sea is gradually undermining and 
 washing away this unstable material, as it forms 
 the foot of the cliffs on the beach ; till at length 
 there is not a sufficient resistance to the immense 
 pressure of the superincumbent strata of rock and 
 chalk, which therefore, in some awful moment, 
 sooner or later, will force out the yielding founda- 
 tion, and (deprived of support,) must then of ne- 
 cessity subside, and be rent and dashed about in 
 the most awful manner. 
 
 In some instances, as the last one which took 
 place at East End in the year 1818, when nearly 
 twenty acres of land were ruined, immense masses 
 of the superior cliff slid forward with the sinking 
 foundation for a considerable distance, and yet re- 
 tained their perpendicular position; while other 
 parts, covered with trees and underwood, were com- 
 
35 
 
 pletely overturned and laid waste in a few hours. 
 
 The above explanation, it is presumed, will be 
 sufficient to enable the visitor to account for the 
 singularly bold manner in which many large de- 
 tached masses of rock are seen starting from the soil, 
 and the very abrupt irregularities of the ground. 
 
 The most considerable landslip within the last 
 century, was near Niton in the year 1799, when a 
 space of nearly one hundred acres was actually 
 seen in a sort of undulating motion descending to- 
 wards the shore, the ground rifting into frightful 
 chasms, and completely changing its form. A 
 cottage was thrown down, but fortunately no lives 
 were lost. 
 
 Besides this great and alarming source of pictu- 
 resque beauty, there is another much less formid- 
 able we mean the frequent founders of large por- 
 tions of the upper range of cliffs. These are rarely 
 attended with any very serious consequences, other 
 than the damage done perhaps to a few shrubs or 
 a growing crop. 
 
 The breadth of the UnderclifF upon an average 
 is about three-quarters of a mile. On the land' 
 side, a steep, irregular bank, surmounted by a 
 wall-like precipice of rock, at an elevation of about 
 600 feet above the sea, forms the northern boun- 
 dary, while the tides of the ocean wash its shores 
 on the south. The nominal derivation is obvious, 
 
30 
 
 i.e. Under -the- cliff. With regard to the general 
 
 stability of the ground, there is every reason to 
 presume that the greatest part has been in a state 
 of repose for many centuries ; certainly so at Bon- 
 church, by the age of the old parish-church, which 
 is of Saxon or early Norman construction. 
 
 Having given a general description of the form- 
 ation of the Undercliff, we shall now conduct the 
 reader regularly through it, taking care to call his 
 attention to every remarkable passage. And first of 
 
 BONCHURCH, 
 
 " Where Nature has her charms combined, 
 With grove, and stream, and valley joined ; 
 Where glen, and rock, and mountain high, 
 Are blent in strangest harmony." 
 
 This lovely spot was once fairy -land itself, a 
 concentration in fact of all the wild and romantic 
 features of this singular district previously to the 
 year 1840, when the land was advertised to be 
 let off on building leases. 
 
 The first view of Bonchurch, coming from Shank- 
 lin by the carriage-road, possesses an uncommon 
 degree of picturesque and cheerful beauty ; for 
 there are not too many houses seen at once, that 
 venerable aspect of the time-worn cliffs has been 
 generally spared the desecration too often inflicted 
 by speculating builders, and the more prominent 
 
 

 . 
 
 . 
 
 
 M 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 
 II 
 
37 
 
 craggy knolls and ivied rocks have been preserved 
 with an almost sacred regard, at least as far as was 
 possible where domestic convenience must be con- 
 sulted. Such is the foreground of the picture : and 
 the perspective is no less pleasing, for it has always 
 been esteemed as decidedly the best view of* the 
 Undercliff that could be had. 
 
 The ancient parish-church is a very pleasing ob- 
 ject (though without any pretensions to architec- 
 tural ornament,) prettily situated near the margin 
 of the sea-cliff, and beautifully shrouded in magni- 
 ficent trees. A considerable number of newly- 
 erected villas are dispersed about, but in a great 
 measure secluded by lofty rocky mounds, dense 
 shrubberies or luxuriant groves : and tjhus sheltered, 
 it is not surprising, the degree of vigour with which 
 even tender exotics thrive in the open air. Some 
 were built on speculation for lodging-houses, but we 
 believe the greater part are private residences the 
 delightfullocality and salubrity of climate, rendering 
 it a most desirable family-retreat, especially during 
 the winter season. There is a comfortable Hotel, 
 situated nearly at the foot of the upper cliff: and 
 not far from it a Church has recently been com- 
 pleted, similar in design to the original one. 
 
 The principal villa is called EAST-DENE, enjoy- 
 ing a most exquisite position near the church, and 
 remarkable for the interior of the house being 
 
38 
 
 finished and furnished in the true antique style of 
 
 the Elizabethan period, at a great expense. 
 
 ic^* The letting-off this charming spot for the purpose 
 of a building-speculation, was a circumstance deeply re- 
 gretted by the admirers of picturesque scenery, when it 
 was first proposed. In ordinary situations, an accession of 
 handsome houses may often prove a great advantage, a re- 
 lief to dullness and monotony : but not so in a place like 
 Bonchurch, where native ivildness reigned to a degree that 
 was justly the pride of the island, and called forth the 
 warmest admiration from visitors of every taste. In the 
 result however we have been agreeably disappointed, for 
 there is still a very considerable share of romantic beauty ; 
 and where rugged wildness has been banished, some pretty 
 cottage-villa peeps from its girdling shrubbery of ever- 
 greens, imparting an enlivening character to the place, 
 without being formal or ostentatious. 
 
 Before taking our leave of this charming scenery, 
 
 we would direct particular attention to one spot, 
 known by the familiar appellation of THE POND : a 
 small piece of transparent water, margined on the 
 road -side by some noble elms, whose unchecked 
 spreading arms beautifully overhang the reflecting 
 surface : while on the other side rises a steep bank 
 clothed with the richest variety of trees : and above 
 is seen the mountain brow of St. Boniface Down. 
 Near the grove is the entrance to a delightfully 
 sequestered spot several private villas enclosed in 
 a sort of amphitheatre formed by a continuous ridge 
 of rock (on the south side of the highway,) covered 
 with a sufficient depth of mould to support the 
 most thriving plantations of ornamental shrubs. 
 
39 
 
 Close to the Pond is likewise an ascent to the top of the 
 village, by a long series of stone steps (too rough and fa- 
 tiguing perhaps for invalids,) which will bring the party 
 near to the Pulpit Rock, a remarkable crag in the face of 
 the highest cliff, generally adorned with a rude cross. There 
 is another picturesque rock on the road-side not far from 
 the church, called Hadfield's Look-out, distinguished by 
 a flag-staff, and to which the public formerly had access. 
 
 As we emerge from the umbrageous groves of Bonchurch, 
 by the old road, we are suddenly presented with a pleasing 
 view of ST. BONIFACE COTTAGE a roomy house, and in a 
 good style for its situation ; deriving its name from the 
 beautiful down at the foot of which it stands the same 
 that screens Ventnor on the north, and rises with an un- 
 commonly steep ascent, nearly 600 feet above the sea. 
 
 
 VENTNOR, 
 
 THIS fast-improving town was in the year 1830 
 little more than a quiet hamlet of about half-a-dozen 
 poor cottages, a grist-mill, one small inn, and a 
 tolerable hotel. Its rapid advance in building and 
 population is owing to the very general opinion 
 held by the Faculty in favor of the Undercliff, as 
 being the most desirable spot in Great Britain for 
 the winter residence of invalids, especially those 
 whose complaints require a mild and dry climate. 
 Several streets have already been completed, and 
 others are in progress ; besides a great number of 
 detached houses and villas. 
 
 Almost every house is furnished with accommo- 
 dations for lodgers : there are several resident me- 
 
40 
 
 dical practitioners : and handsome, well-stocked 
 shops in nearly every line of business. The num- 
 ber of Hotels and Inns has also considerably in- 
 creased of late (see List:) and there are established 
 baths of several kinds most required by invalids, be- 
 sides the common bathing-machines on the beach. 
 
 o 
 
 St. Catharines Church is an exceedingly pretty 
 object, and admirably relieves the eye from the con- 
 fused appearance of the houses : it was built at the 
 expense of a private gentleman in the neighbour- 
 hood ; internally is very convenient, and was an 
 accommodation much wanted by the rapid increase 
 of the population. There are also two dissenting 
 chapels an Independent lately rebuilt and of hand- 
 some design, and a Wesley an. 
 
 Several local improvements, of great advantage, 
 such as paving, lighting with gas, constructing a 
 promenade on the shore, &c., have already been 
 effected ; while others of a very desirable nature, 
 among which are a better landing-place and break- 
 water, are in contemplation, and will no doubt be 
 carried out as soon as possible. 
 
 VENTNOR-COVE 
 
 Is well deserving of a visit : the coast is remarkably 
 bold, and in some passages highly picturesque : pre- 
 senting at particular seasons quite an animated scene 
 
9 
 
 
 
41 
 
 fisherman launching their boats or returning 
 from sea ; and numerous visitors variously en- 
 gaged some in active exercise near the rippling 
 waves ; and others reclining at their ease on the 
 pleasant banks of sand and shingle that are thrown 
 up by the tides. 
 
 The material of the shore is principally fine shingle, or 
 small pebbles, among which are frequently found particles 
 possessing a brilliancy that has gained for them the title of 
 
 Clsle of Wight diamonds," and though they may be but of 
 mparatively inferior value in point of intrinsic quality, 
 still, the interest taken in searching for them is a source of 
 the most agreeable employment, especially to those visitors 
 whose health precludes exercise of a more active nature. 
 
 The general appearance of Ventnor is, as might 
 be expected, at present greatly injured by the ob- 
 trusive glare of so many new houses being scattered 
 about in every direction; an unfavorable though 
 unavoidable effect, which must gradually disappear 
 with the promising growth of the ornamental shrubs 
 so profusely planted, and when building shall be 
 less extensively carried on, and the houses more 
 connected in the principal streets. 
 
 Much of the finest scenery of the Isle of Wight 
 in the immediate neighbourhood of Ventnor ; for 
 stance, at Steephill and St. Lawrence almost 
 ery unique feature of the Undercliff exists in un- 
 diminished beauty ; from one to two miles north- 
 ward the groves of Appuldurcombe spread in luxu- 
 
 
42 
 
 riant style, surrounded by landscapes exceedingly 
 rich and varied : from the summits of the towering 
 hills by which the town is so happily screened on 
 the north, the prospects are of the most splendid 
 description ; and the exquisite scenery of Bon- 
 church is so near and available, as to belong; as it 
 
 * o 
 
 were to Ventnor itself. 
 
 In rather less than a mile we shall reach.... 
 STEEFHILL, 
 
 Long and deservedly styled " the Queen of the 
 Undercliff." But since the year 1830, a great 
 change has taken place in its aspect, for much 
 of that delightfully romantic negligence, and truly 
 rural accompaniments, by which it was then so 
 eminently distinguished have yielded to polished 
 decoration and imposing magnificence; the com- 
 fortable thatched cottage for so many years the 
 late Earl Dysart's favorite retreat, was then suc- 
 ceeded by a most SPLENDID CASTLE : and several 
 neighbouring rustic cots were removed (to the 
 advantage of the occupants), in order to give an 
 extent of ground corresponding with the dignity of 
 the new mansion. 
 
 Though the place is now, notwithstanding the 
 change, extremely interesting, and no doubt to 
 many tastes more beautiful than before, still, as 
 far as the public are concerned, the alteration is 
 
43 
 
 much to be regretted, for they are not admitted 
 within the garden-grounds which are very exten- 
 sive, and maintained in the most exquisite taste. 
 
 For a description of the Castle see section " Seats." 
 
 or 
 
 ST, LAWRENCE 
 
 Succeeds Steephill, and here we have all the 
 charms of the Undercliff, without any considerable 
 drawback on the score of modern improvements, 
 or any very important alterations in the general 
 character of the scene. 
 
 The principal embellishment to the landscape is 
 a VILLA belonging to Earl Yarborough, which 
 was built many years since, and the grounds laid 
 out with much classical taste by the late Sir Rd. 
 Worsley : but this, like nearly all the other seats, 
 now possesses comparatively little interest with the 
 passing traveller, who is precluded the indulgence 
 of a peep at either the house or the grounds ; in- 
 deed an attempt has been made to close the foot- 
 ath to the sea-cliffs. Contiguous is the more 
 modern cottage of the late Hon. Capt. Pelham. 
 
 Nearly opposite the villa-entrance is THE WELL 
 a very neat piece of architecture, inclosing a 
 crystal fountain, and beautifully canopied by va- 
 rious trees ; makes a good subject for an easy 
 sketch. 
 
 But the principal object of attention with stran- 
 
44 
 
 gers is the diminutive PARISH- CHURCH, which 
 is reckoned among the smallest parochial edifices 
 in Great Britain : for which reason, and beina; ex- 
 
 * O 
 
 tremely pretty, few strangers pass by without 
 paying it the compliment of a short examination. 
 
 The village numbers but a scanty population : 
 and the few rustic dwellings are almost hidden 
 among the trees and rocky knolls. 
 
 on 
 
 WHICH IS TAKING PLACE IN THE SCENIC CHA- 
 RACTER OF THE UNDERCLIFF. 
 The road from St. Lawrence to Mirables (about a mile 
 and a half,) is comparatively uninteresting in point of arti- 
 ficial objects of attraction; but probably the reader will be 
 quite as well pleased, and agree with the painter and the 
 poet, that.... 
 
 " There is a grace in wild variety 
 Surpassing rule and order." 
 
 For here we have frequently that delightful union of roman- 
 tic and rural beauty so characteristic of this picturesque 
 country a bold variety of broken ground and fractured 
 cliff, harmonized by congenial brushwood or mantling ivy ; 
 intervening marks of cheerful cultivation, and the quiet 
 presence of some humble cottage sequestered amidst rocks 
 and trees ; the public road too not yet confined between 
 high parallel stone walls to the narrow breadth of a town 
 lane : nor densely planted on either hand, to the provoking 
 exclusion of all prospect. In fact, we have, in this highly 
 favored spot, many of the genuine features of the Under- 
 cliff in all the lovely simplicity of Nature. 
 
 We call this a "highly favored spot," not that it is so 
 eminently distinguished for scenic beauty : no ; but because 
 it is, as yet, spared the wide-spreading infliction of London- 
 like improvements. But we fear, from the increasing 
 
 
45 
 
 elebrity of the Undercliff as the most desirable retreat in 
 Europe for invalids during the winter months, that it will 
 not long be suffered to enjoy its present native dress and 
 soothing repose. 
 
 It would be well if gentlemen who take up their resi- 
 dence at this part of the island, would determine that their 
 habitations should be of a design to harmonize with the 
 emands of local propriety : and particularly, not to proceed 
 ith a rash hand in exchanging any one genuine line of 
 e place, for "pretty effects!" or any of those trifling 
 elegancies!" that are more proper to grace a Chinese 
 leasure-house, or a metropolitan garden. 
 
 " Great Nature scorns control : she will not bear 
 One beauty foreign to the spot or soil 
 She gives thee to adorn : 'tis thine alone 
 To mend, NOT CHANGE, her features." 
 
 The reader, if he be at all an amateur of the picturesque, 
 will, we are sure pardon this digression, and equally de- 
 precate that false taste which too often prefers splendid 
 ittleness to noble simplicity. He will have occasion more 
 an once to remark before he leaves the island, how much 
 n'imitiye beauty is injured by fanciful embellishments and 
 injudicious alterations : it would be a solecism to call such 
 refinements by the designation of improvements, where 
 in fact it might seem to have been the aim of wealth, 
 
 " And all that toil, 
 
 Misled by tasteless Fashion, could achieve, 
 To mar fair Nature's lineaments divine." 
 
 (Abridged from the " Vectis Scenery.") 
 
 A little before we reach Mirables, a gentleman's 
 louse is situated below the road on our left. The 
 traveller would not immediately recognise the place 
 from its appellation, OLD PARK, for there are 
 but very few handsome full grown trees on the 
 estate. No expense, however, has been spared 
 
46 
 
 either in the building itself, which is modern and 
 of good design ; or in the decorations of the 
 grounds ; but the plantations, though very exten- 
 sive are as yet too young to reflect any additional 
 charms on the scene. 
 
 Here we would recommend the tourist to quit the 
 highway, and walk for the distance of about a mile 
 upon the edge of the cliff towards Niton ; the path 
 is perfectly safe ; and will be found a most agree- 
 able diversity, particularly as nearly the whole 
 range of the Undercliff is spread beneath his view. 
 Inquire for.... CRIPPLE-PATH : 
 Which is a romantic ascent to the top of the cliff, 
 curiously formed by the softer strata of the rock 
 mouldering away, and thus leaving deep recesses 
 between the more stubborn ledges. 
 
 Proceeding by the carriage-road, we shall pre- 
 sently enter (to enjoy for a short distance a most 
 grateful shade), the luxuriant plantations of M I- 
 RABLES, a villa more remarkable for its charming 
 locality, than for any architectural beauty. 
 
 Contiguous to Mirables are the grounds of THE 
 ORCHARD, which is also seated a little below the 
 public road. It is of a much more polished cha- 
 racter than either of the neighbouring villas, though 
 constructed according to no particular style. 
 
 BEAUCHAMP is another genteel residence on the 
 other side of the way, shaded by a close plantation. 
 
47 
 
 But none of the villas along this part of the 
 island equals, in all respects, the one called 
 PUCKASTER COTTAGE (from its proximity 
 to the small cove of that name). The design of 
 the house is at once extremely beautiful and ap- 
 propriate to local demands with a bold projecting 
 roof, and enveloped in a profusion of elegant 
 creepers : the grounds too, naturally picturesque, 
 are adorned in excellent taste. 
 
 H3F The Exclusion of Strangers from most of the 
 Country- Seats having been often inveighed against rather 
 
 considerately, we feel it our duty here candidly to state 
 extenuation, that we know several gentlemen who would 
 freely open their gates to respectable visitors, provided they 
 could be assured of every party being contented with a ge- 
 neral view of the local beauties, without indulging a too 
 prying curiosity; and at the same time would refrain from 
 lucking choice flowers, fruits, and shrubs, many of which 
 ay perhaps have been cultivated by the hands of the owner 
 ith an affection of no little solicitude and pride ; and of 
 course it is not always convenient to keep a person merely 
 to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with 
 many gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island 
 becoming every year more and more attractive with plea- 
 sure-parties, an unlimited admission of strangers would at 
 once annihilate all the charms of rural seclusion ; it would 
 in fact be converting the flowery walks of a quiet country- 
 ilia into as giddy a promenade as almost any popular tea- 
 ,rden in the suburbs of the metropolis. Still however, 
 peaking generally, it requires only some slight grounds of 
 introduction : and in the absence of the family there is of 
 course less difficulty, it being then a privilege often given 
 to the servants. 
 
 
SECTION V. 
 THE UNDERCLIFF NEAR NZTON, 
 
 The road now takes a sudden turn under the 
 face of the loftv cliff on our rmht ; and here we 
 
 tf 
 
 are presented with another BUILDING SPECULATION 
 upon rather an ample scale, but on which it cer- 
 tainly would be premature at present to offer any 
 remarks : we cannot however help expressing a 
 very sincere wish that good taste may so preside 
 over the undertaking, as to leave no great reason 
 to deplore this fresh invasion on the quiet charms 
 of an extensive landscape, long and deservedly ad- 
 mired. 
 
 A lane leads down to the little cove of Puckaster, 
 which is frequented by fishermen, and is amusing 
 enough, if our friends have time to spare. 
 
 We now turn our eye from the sea, and presently 
 come to a cross-road the right-hand branch run- 
 ning northward to Niton and Newport, and the 
 left to Blackgang Chine. 
 
 A gentleman's villa called WESTCLIFF faces 
 the road, surrounded by hanging plantations carried 
 to the summit of the precipice above : more in the 
 centre-front is another genteel private residence ; 
 and on either hand several less important dwellings. 
 
TOTITEHSITT 
 
49 
 
 The ROYAL SANDROCK HOTEL is a conspicuous 
 )bject, quite in the rural taste, seated high above 
 the road. A little to the westward of the hotel 
 
 a gentleman's residence called MOUNT CLEEVES, 
 )leasantly situated, but scarcely seen from the 
 lighway. 
 
 ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 ifter the melancholy catastrophe of the Claren- 
 lon wreck (1836), it was deemed advisable to have 
 
 Light-house immediately erected in such a situ- 
 ition as should appear in conjunction with the one 
 m the Needles Point, to be the best calculated to 
 rarn seamen from approaching this dangerous part 
 )f the coast. It comprises the requisite apartments 
 for the light-keepers ; and a stone Tower, rising 
 ibove one hundred feet from the surface of the 
 ground (besides the lantern of nearly thirty feet 
 
 lore): a most conspicuous elevation, as it stands 
 ilose to the verge of the sea-cliffs between Puckas- 
 ter Cove and the Sandrock Spring, and which are 
 here about fifty feet high. From its great altitude, 
 
 V * 
 
 the tower appears in any point of view rather as 
 some most magnificent column. 
 
 It was found necessary to sink 30 feet for a secure foun- 
 ition which is a solid mass of masonry. The building 
 fas completed in the year 1839 ; and the mode of lighting 
 las since received several experimental alterations that 
 rere suggested as improvements by scientific men. We need 
 
 scarcely add, that the tower is visited by numerous strangers, 
 
 G 
 
50 
 
 ROCKEN-END RACE is a very dangerous ledge 
 stretching off this part of the shore to a considerable 
 distance : and marks, by the vast masses of stone 
 which in the course of ages have been precipitated 
 from the cliffs above, the gradual advance of the sea 
 upon this part of the coast. Between here and 
 Freshwater are several other reefs, noticed at p. 13. 
 
 Pursuing a westward course, we soon enter on a 
 scene of the greatest interest, being a tract of above 
 100 acres, where a very alarming landslip occurred 
 in the year 1799 ; the ground still exhibits its awful 
 effects, being tossed about in the utmost irregu- 
 larity ; now rising into steep knolls, and then as 
 abruptly sinking into precipitous dells : some parts 
 of the surface entirely covered with fragments of 
 the shattered cliffs ; while colossal rocks, half bu- 
 ried in the ground, appear in every direction. The 
 face of the frowning precipice too is more fresh and 
 lofty here than in any other part of the range. 
 
 THE SANDROCK CHALYBEATE SPRING 
 Is the first individual object we come to, deserving 
 notice ; situated in the face of a bold gloomy cliff, 
 composed of black clayey earth interspersed with 
 rock, at about 130 feet above the sea, and which, 
 together with the appropriately simple style of the 
 dispensary cottage that stands nearly on the edge 
 of the cliff above, gives to the whole scene an 
 
We have now nearly reached the termination of 
 the Undercliff, for another half mile brings us to... 
 BLACK.CANC CHINS, 
 
 " An inauspicious spot, 
 Since Nature here no happy feature wears." 
 
 The character of this tremendous chasm is the 
 very reverse of that at Shanklin : for here neither 
 stunted tree nor humble shrub is found to adorn its 
 steep shelving sides, which are upwards of 500 feet 
 high, and m a state of constant decay ; the soil is 
 of a dusky hue, and the only relief to its gloomy 
 aspect some horizontal strata of free-stone, which 
 have been aptly said to " appear like vast courses 
 of masonry built at different heights to sustain the 
 mouldering hill." 
 
 The most striking feature is a large cavity on the 
 beach ; this receives a scanty rill (no doubt the 
 
52 
 
 original cause of the chine), which falls over a pro- 
 jecting ledge about seventy feet high, and when 
 increased by heavy rains, has really a grand effect, 
 especially if viewed from within the basin ; but 
 after a long continuance of dry weather, it is little 
 more than a mere dribble. 
 
 But to form a correct idea of the solemn gran- 
 deur of the scene, it should be viewed from the 
 water, just at such a distance as would be sufficient 
 to command the whole extent of the ravine, together 
 with the lofty tower-crowned hill which rises im- 
 mediately above : or visit it during the portentous 
 moment of a storm, when universal gloom darkens 
 the face of Nature, and perchance some ill-fated 
 bark is yielding to... 
 
 " Th'impelling floods that lash her to the shore," 
 and it will readily be acknowledged to exhibit as 
 truly an affecting combination of congenial horrors 
 as any spot on the English coast. 
 
 " On some rude fragment of the rocky shore, 
 Where on the fractur'd cliff the billows break, 
 Musing, my solitary seat I take, 
 
 And listen to their deep and solemn roar. 
 
 " O'er the dark waves the winds tempestuous howl, 
 
 The screaming sea-birds quit the troubled sea, 
 But the wild gloomy scene has charms for me." 
 
 Uninviting as this sterile locality might have for- 
 merly appeared to visitors, yet several persons 
 have preferred it to any other part of the island for 
 
53 
 
 their occasional retirement, particularly during the 
 summer months, when its dreary aspect, as Dr. 
 Martin observes, " is more than counterbalanced 
 by the purity and salubrity of the air, which vies 
 with the mountain breezes of the Highlands in 
 giving elasticity to the step and vigor to the frame." 
 Westward of the chine, on the lower cliff, is a very 
 tasty residence ; and occupying a more elevated 
 position, a row of convenient lodging-houses : and 
 to the eastward two pleasing marine villas, one of 
 which is rather more sheltered from the violence of 
 the south-western gales. The Hotel stands im- 
 mediately at the head of the winding chasm : three 
 or four neat cottages are dispersed at a short dis- 
 tance : and some erections which by no means 
 contribute to the grandeur of the scene. 
 
 A gradual change in the general aspect of Blackgang is 
 in progress, that impressive air of SAVAGE MAGNIFICENCE 
 which was the peculiar characteristic of the scene, and was 
 
 Iso warmly extolled by the admirers of the sublime, is being 
 softened down by the concurrence of various innovations : 
 the presence of gay and genteel life ; dreary ruggedness 
 yielding to cheerful embellishment and visiting facilities ; 
 and where yawning fissures and deep miry pools threatened 
 destruction to the unwary traveller, there are now excellent 
 public and private roads, and a green unbroken surface, 
 effected by means of judicious and thorough draining. 
 
 But (in a picturesque light,) we are perhaps too much 
 prejudiced in favor of simple Nature under almost any con- 
 dition ; for we always look with distrust to the " improve- 
 ments" of man so often lamentably out of character, 
 
54 
 
 capricious, and absurd. Our friends must therefore be kind 
 enough to give us credit for describing the INTEREST of the 
 scenery rather as what it was, than precisely what it is. 
 There is one redeeming circumstance however in the im- 
 provements both here and at Shanklin Chine (places we 
 have known above forty years,) that ought not to be over- 
 looked : it is, that invalids and the fair sex can now explore 
 either scene with perfect facility and comfort; whereas 
 formerly it was a task requiring no inconsiderable share of 
 strength and agility. 
 
 In a shed at Blackgang is kept the skeleton of a whale 
 taken near the west end of the island in 1841, and which 
 was one of the largest ever caught on the English coast. 
 
 Respecting the origin of the term BlacTtgang, the tra- 
 dition is, that it was formerly the haunt of a desperate gang 
 of pirates. How far this may be true or not, certain it is 
 that no terms could better express the identical character 
 of the scene the general sable aspect of the cliffs, and 
 step-like appearance of the strata. 
 
 t3- It would be an omission did we not here apprise the 
 reader, that in going round the island in a steam or other 
 vessel during a fresh gale, it is prudent to keep at such a 
 distance from shore, that the chine cannot be seen to ad- 
 vantage, often indeed can scarcely be discriminated by a 
 stranger ; the best time is when the sun's rays fall so ob- 
 liquely that the whole chasm is thrown into the deepest 
 
 shade. 
 
 Wreck of the Ship Clarendon. 
 
 The most disastrous wreck that has occurred on our 
 shores for the last 40 years, was that of the above ship, on 
 the llth of October, 1836, exactly opposite the cavern of 
 Blackgang Chine. She was of 350 tons burthen, laden 
 with sugar and rum from the West Indies. The crew were 
 17 men; and the passengers ten four of them female. At 
 five o'clock on the fatal morning, the weather dark and 
 tempestuous, land was discovered at but a short distance 
 

 55 
 
 to leeward : there was no pilot on board, and in vain were 
 the most strenuous efforts made by the astonished crew to 
 wear the vessel off! In a short time the passengers were 
 assembled on deck : their horrid destiny was apparent for 
 the ship rapidly driven by the raging elements, was soon 
 aground, engulphed between the mountain waves that in- 
 cessantly broke over her, and the steep descent of the beach 
 against which she struck. In this horrible state the vessel 
 remained for about five minutes, during which might be 
 heard the convulsive screams of the unhappy sufferers, many 
 of whom were distinctly seen in the agony of despair, clinging 
 to whatever would afford them a hold. But short, alas ! was 
 their distracting suspense : for ere any measure could be 
 taken for their escape, the ship was stove in by one tremen- 
 dous surge, bursting over her with such inconceivable force, 
 as to wrench the hull asunder into a thousand pieces ! All 
 on board perished, except the mate and two seamen, who 
 were washed overboard previous to the fatal stroke. 
 
 SECT. VI. 
 
 From the Undercliff to Freshwater-gate. 
 
 \ 
 
 Between Blackgang Chine and Freshwater are 
 several other chasms possessing much of the same 
 gloomy character, but on a very inferior scale : 
 the principal of these are WALPAN, WHALE, COW- 
 LEASE and THE SHEPHERD'S, GRANGE, CHILTON, 
 and BROOKE. 
 
 ST. CATHARINE'S HILL. 
 (In the sea- cliffs of which is Blackgang Chine), is 
 the highest land in the island, being 830 feet above 
 high-water mark : it is distinguished by a slender 
 
56 
 
 octagon tower, the remains of a small chapel which 
 was built on the site of an hermitage in the 14th 
 century, and duly endowed by the benevolence of 
 an individual, for the purpose of providing lights 
 as a beacon to ships driving during the night near 
 this dangerous coast. There is also a round tower, 
 originally built for a light-house, but never 
 equipped, as it was found to be obscured in sea- 
 mists generally at those seasons when its friendly 
 aid would have been the most required. Visitors 
 should ascend to the summit of the down, to enjoy 
 the enchanting and illimitable land and sea views 
 which it so eminently commands (see section 
 " Prospects"). 
 
 The distance between Blackgang Chine and the 
 Freshwater Cliffs is about 12 miles, during the 
 greater part of which we have a very attractive 
 view of the sea, which indeed will constitute our 
 chief pleasure, for in point of grand or romantic 
 features, this part of the tour is altogether destitute. 
 Not but there are many minor passages of pictu- 
 resque beauty, charming rural scenes (some of 
 which will be noticed hereafter), and a perspective 
 of the most interesting kind. The fact is, nearly 
 the whole of this district is uncommonly fertile, 
 and therefore either employed in tillage, or laid 
 down to meadow ; little is devoted to the less 
 
 
thould our friends feel with the agriculturist, 
 " Pleas'd if the glowing landscape wave with corn," 
 hey will find the journey not altogether uninterest- 
 ag, however monotonous it may appear to the im- 
 atient eve of an artistic amateur. 
 
 / 
 
 Should the tourist take the usual road over the 
 owns from Brooke to Freshwater, he cannot fail 
 if being highly delighted with the unbounded and 
 ly beautiful prospect which is obtained on either 
 and. It is really disgraceful to the taste of any 
 traveller to proceed during the latter part of the 
 journey at a quicker pace than an easy walk, sup- 
 posing it to be a clear day ; in the meantime cou- 
 ulting his Map for an explanation of the many 
 teresting objects that crowd the panoramic view. 
 To the westward the cliffs of Freshwater extend 
 a noble promontory of three miles, beyond which 
 the coasts of Hampshire and Dorset stretch away in 
 beautiful perspective, till our view is terminated by 
 
 " Downs that almost escape th'inquiring eye, 
 That melt and fade into the distant sky : " 
 While to the northward, so diversified is the exten- 
 sive landscape with towns and villages, forests, sea, 
 and river, that it is impossible for us to give even a 
 faint idea of the grandeur of the scene. 
 
 H 
 
SECTION VII. 
 
 THE FRESHWATER C&IFFS 
 
 (GENERALLY). 
 
 This quarter of the island, though promising at 
 a distant prospect but little diversity of features, 
 will be found on examination to be of the most 
 beautiful and sublime description. 
 
 But unfortunately, in general the eye of the tra- 
 veller first espies this magnificent range of preci- 
 pices at too great a distance ; and embracing the 
 whole as it were at one glance, he feels not those 
 overwhelming impressions which would be experi- 
 enced, were he to approach them without any pre- 
 vious view. To illustrate this observation, let the 
 reader suppose himself to come suddenly under an 
 impending precipice at least a hundred feet higher 
 than the loftiest spire in Europe ! and would not 
 the unexpected circumstance excite the deepest 
 emotions of mingled terror and admiration ! 
 
 Kgl" Visitors at Freshwater ought therefore by 
 all means (if the state of the weather be favorable), 
 proceed by water round the Needle Rocks, and if 
 time should allow, to Alum Bay. Every import- 
 ant feature will then be viewed to advantage, but 
 
9 
 
 otherwise some of the most sublime objects could 
 not be seen. If this recommendation be adopted, 
 the party should take boat at Fresh water-gate : 
 land at Scratchell's Bay then at Alum Bay ; thence 
 walk up to the Light-house, and return over the 
 downs, passing by the beacon. Or, if they are 
 staying at the Alum Bay Hotel, reverse the plan. 
 
 We shall now proceed to particulars : assigning however 
 to the local boatmen the task of pointing out all the minor 
 beauties, and only call our reader's attention to the more 
 interesting objects which are successively presented in sailing 
 round to Alum Bay. 
 
 
 
 FBESHWATER-GATE 
 
 Is a small valley or break in the beautiful range of 
 downs that stretch through the island from east 
 
 (west : and here a narrow low bank of shingly 
 'bbles interposes between the briny element and 
 e spring-head of the river TAB, which rises in a 
 meadow opposite the lower inn, and taking a nor- 
 therly direction, communicates with the Solent 
 channel at Yarmouth. Should ever this slight 
 barrier be removed, as is not improbable in some 
 tremendous storm when the waves sweep over it 
 with resistless fury, the whole of this quarter would 
 form a distinct island (at least during high-tide), 
 as no doubt was the case some centuries ago. 
 
60 
 
 Here are two excellent places of public accom- 
 modation : the Albion, on the beach and Plumbly's 
 hotel, close to the new Battery, on the cliff above. 
 
 THS BAIT 
 
 At Freshwater-gate presents an extremely interest- 
 ing scene in any state of the weather : indeed it is 
 difficult to decide which is the most pleasing, 
 whether the glowing serenity that pervades the 
 whole prospect on a calm sunny day, when.... 
 
 " The glassy ocean hush'd, forgets to roar, 
 But trembling, murmurs on the sandy shore : " 
 
 or the air of wild sublimity with which it is im- 
 pressed during a storm, and a flood-tide :- 
 
 " With terrible irruption bursting o'er 
 The chalky cliffs, tremendous surges roar ; 
 Hoarse thro' each winding creek the tempest raves, 
 And hollow rocks repeat the groan of waves." 
 
 The most prominent beauties of the bay are... 
 two remarkable isolated rocks of large dimensions ; 
 one being of a pyramidical form, and the other a 
 bold, rugged arch. It must be a subject of specu- 
 lation with the reflecting stranger, how two such 
 huge masses of chalk could have maintained their 
 position against the united assaults of furious winds 
 and waves, while so much of the main cliff (of 
 which they once formed part,) has been gradually 
 undermined and washed away by the tides : for 
 the distance of separation is at present about forty 
 

yards, and still increasing. On the opposite side 
 of the bay is a large GATE EN at the foot of the cliff 
 long an object of particular attraction ; but its 
 romantic interest was a few years ago considerably 
 lessened, in consequence of one of the curious na- 
 tural pillars giving away, and the anterior portion 
 of the roof falling in. 
 
 At a little distance is WATCOMBE BAY, 
 where there are several other deep caverns that 
 may be easily explored : and also an isolated pyra- 
 midical rock of a most picturesque form, about 34 
 feet in height. This interesting spot is now acces- 
 sible on foot by a road which has been made from 
 Plumbly's Hotel. 
 
 From the beach at Freshwater-gate, the land 
 rises to a lofty down of nearly three miles extent, 
 m which a beacon and light-house are erected ; the 
 ihalky precipices rearing themselves in a gradual 
 progress of elevation to a wonderful height even 
 upwards of 600 feet above the level of the sea ; 
 sometimes perpendicular, and sometimes overhang- 
 ing the ocean in a most awful manner. " To form 
 a just conception of their magnitude," says Sir 
 Richard Worsley, "they should be viewed from 
 the sea about a quarter of a mile off, when the 
 most lofty and magnificent fabrics of art, compared 
 
62 
 
 with these stupendous works of Nature, sink in 
 idea to Lilliputian size." 
 
 In several places the issuing of springs form 
 beautiful cascades : and of the several large 
 caverns found along this sublime range of pre- 
 cipices, two in particular are of a very picturesque 
 character, whimsically named LOED HOLME s's 
 PAELOUB, and KITCHEN, from the fact (it is said,) 
 of that nobleman having frequently retired hither 
 to enjoy a pic-nic refreshment with his friends. 
 
 A little further the local waterman will also point 
 to a remarkable object called... 
 
 THE WEDGE-ROCK, 
 
 Prom the extraordinary circumstances of a large 
 piece of chalk, precisely the shape of a wedge, be- 
 ing fixed between the parent cliff and an immense 
 pyramidical rock, exactly as if placed there by 
 some gigantic hand to effect a separation. The 
 dimensions of the wedge are between ten and 
 twelve feet square : and the pyramid is at least 
 fifty feet high, by about a hundred feet long, and 
 forty feet wide at the base. To the admirers of rock 
 scenery this spot will afford much gratification, 
 for we are not aware of any part of the island that 
 combines more of the picturesque in detail, and 
 grandeur in the whole. 
 
 
63 
 
 We strongly recommend the young and active, to 
 land here, for the sake of examining so singular a result of 
 accident ; and enter the deep alley -like fissure between the 
 cliff and the immense chalk-rock connected with the wedge ; 
 also to be satisfied how very difficult it is to form an ac- 
 curate idea of the EXTENT of the broken green ledges in 
 various parts : for the great altitude of the cliffs has the 
 effect of diminishing an acre to the appearance of less than 
 half the size. Let our friends previously calculate; there 
 is little difficulty or danger in landing, and it only requires 
 strength and agility to clamber up the craggy steep. 
 
 Having nearly reached the termination of the 
 range, we round a bold angle of the cliff called 
 SUN CORNER, and then enter... 
 
 SCKATCHELL's BAY, 
 
 Whose soaring precipices are most remarkable for 
 their bold and varied outline, and the extreme 
 beauty of their flint-defined stratification. Here 
 aquatic parties generally land to enjoy the refresh- 
 ment of a short walk on the beach ; but the great 
 object of attraction is an IMMENSE CONCAVE EECESS 
 in the face of the cliff, which presents to the spec- 
 tator on the spot, the imposing appearance of a 
 
 MAGNIFICENT ARCH. 
 And such is the true and elegant sweep which it 
 describes, that it more resembles some stupendous 
 work of Art than the accidental production of Na- 
 ture (for the cause can be ascribed only to the chalk 
 being here of a softer quality than that which sur- 
 rounds it. No language can give a just idea of the 
 
64 
 
 grandeur of the effect impressing the soul of the 
 visitor with astonishment and ecstatic admiration: 
 at the same time it is scarcely possible for any sce- 
 nery to be more brilliant than that viewed from 
 beneath the awful shade of its lofty vaulted roof, 
 whose height is nearly one hundred yards, and is 
 ascertained to overhang the beach little short of 
 two hundred feet. 
 
 On the north side of Scratchell's Bay are the 
 
 NEEDX.Z: ROCKS, 
 
 Long celebrated for their magnitude and pictu- 
 resque forms, and equally dreaded by approaching 
 mariners in tempestuous weather. They stretch 
 out to sea a great distance in nearly a straight line, 
 and are seen from afar off most majestically rearing 
 their sharp craggy heads high above the foaming 
 waves. There can be no doubt whatever but they 
 once constituted an undistinguishable portion of the 
 promontory or main land : and must therefore be 
 viewed as stupendous monuments of Nature ! de- 
 monstrating the vast extent of land that has been 
 gradually removed (in the lapse of unknown cen- 
 turies) by the agency of certain causes, which are 
 even now in operation : a fact which furnishes the 
 most important theme of reflection to every tra- 
 veller in the least attentive to the indications of 
 local phenomena. 
 

 The two most western rocks must date the origin 
 f their separation ages back ; defying alike the 
 jarring elements, and the mighty force of the ocean 
 tides by which they have been constantly assailed. 
 It was not till between the years 1815 20 that 
 
 
 
 the third great Needle Rock was completely iso- 
 lated from the proximate cliff and previously to 
 that taking place, the connecting portion was curi- 
 ously perforated by a large arch. Since then other 
 smaller rocks have been formed ; and there is every 
 appearance that ere long there will be a very noble 
 pinnacle near the edge of the precipice, which per- 
 haps at some distant period may become a magni- 
 ficent detached column-like rock, similar to the one 
 from which the singular name was derived : that 
 extraordinary rock was 120 feet high, and very 
 slender; but at length was so much worn at the 
 ase by the constant fretting of the waves, that it 
 fell in the year 1764 with so tremendous a crash, 
 as to have been felt for many miles round. 
 
 We have now to call the reader's attention to 
 another highly admired part of the coast, called 
 
 tAIiUM BAY, 
 xhibiting so much peculiarity of scenic character, 
 $ to be declared by travellers without its parallel 
 in Great Britain. The extraordinary interest the 
 novelty and beauty of the scene consist in an ex- 
 
66 
 
 tensive series of alternating COLORED sands and 
 ochreous earths, disposed in vertical strata of vari- 
 ous thickness; and so bright are the tints as to be 
 justly compared to the stripes on the leaves of a 
 tulip, or the shades of silk. 
 
 Alum Bay is a spot so very remarkable also in 
 its geological phenomena, that few professors or 
 students in the science fail to give it frequent visits. 
 The name is said to be derived from the circum- 
 stance of alum having been often found on the shore. 
 
 There is a hotel called "the Needles," about half 
 a mile from the beach. 
 
 A carriage-road leads from Freshwater-gate up 
 to the LIGHT-HOUSE, which is a gratifying ob- 
 ject of curiosity to persons unacquainted with the 
 nature of such an establishment: it stands near the 
 extremity of the down, and commands a prospect 
 of great extent and beauty, particularly of the un- 
 rivaled scenery of Alum Bay. 
 
 These precipices are frequented at periodical seasons by 
 such prodigious flights of sea-fowl of various kinds, "as can 
 be described only by the hyperbolical expression of darken- 
 ing the air." The country-people take them by the peril- 
 ous expedient of descending by means of a rope passing 
 over a crow-bar firmly fixed in the ground above ; one end 
 of the rope being fastened under their arms, and the other 
 end held in their hands, by which they lower and raise 
 themselves from ledge to ledge of the dreadful precipice. 
 
 
SECT. VIII. 
 
 CHARACTER OF THE PROSPECTS x 
 
 BY DISTINGUISHED AUTHORS. 
 
 HAVING now conducted the reader through all 
 the most remarkable passages of natural scenery, we 
 shall close this chapter by adducing a few sketches 
 from the abler pens of eminent and impartial wri- 
 ters, by which it will be seen that we have not 
 aimed at too florid a style of coloring, nor indulged 
 in unwarranted panegyric. 
 
 We started with an avowal that all puffing (so 
 common to Guide-manufacturers) should be care- 
 fully avoided, and to this we have endeavoured to 
 adhere : but still there is such a diversity of opi- 
 nion as to the character of many of the scenes, that 
 no doubt our veracity has often been questioned. 
 For instance : the two celebrated Chines of Shank- 
 lin and Blackgang are scarcely ever considered 
 equally interesting by the same person : for he who 
 eulogizes the first as the most enchanting of romantic 
 scenes, seldom sees anything to admire in the sullen 
 and sterile aspect of the latter ; while many others 
 again as loudly proclaim Blackgang to be beyond 
 all comparison the most interesting of the two, as 
 possessing a magnificence and awful grandeur 
 amounting to the sublime. Such being the divided 
 
68 
 
 opinions of travellers respecting local beauty, we 
 hope our friends will give us the credit of being at 
 least honest in our statements, though deficient 
 in point of taste on those subjects where we may 
 have unfortunately differed. 
 
 MR. GILPIN, 
 
 The celebrated writer on "the Picturesque," of all the dif- 
 ferent authors whom we have consulted, gives upon the 
 whole the least favorable account of the island. But it must 
 be observed, that he made only one short visit of two days, 
 in rather an unpropitious state of the weather, and when the 
 condition of the roads rendered travelling extremely te- 
 dious. He eould not have had more than a partial glance. 
 Carisbrooke Castle, Appuldurcombe, and two or three other 
 places, however, receive from him an unmeasured share of 
 praise ; but the scenery in general did not equal his expec- 
 tations "in a picturesque point of view." 
 
 THE REV. LEGH RICHMOND, 
 
 Author of "the Dairyman's Daughter," and other popular 
 tracts, has some splendid descriptions of the Wight ; but as 
 these form a compilation with illustrative Notes and Plates 
 (price 2s.6d.) it would be superfluous to introduce them here. 
 
 DR. LEMPRIERE 
 
 Thus describes the Prospect from St. Catharine's Hill : 
 " The sequestered spot in which is situated the Sandrock 
 Spring is immediately surrounded by broken rocks covered 
 by a scanty vegetation, bold and rugged cliffs, and precipices 
 bounded apparently by the sea, which irresistibly for a mo- 
 ment divert the attention from the enlivened but more dis- 
 tant prospect that opens to the west, where the high cliffs 
 of Freshwater form objects of particular interest. 
 
69 
 
 " But upon leaving the Spring, and ascending the heights 
 of St. Catharine's Hill, the scenery assumes a totally new as- 
 pect. The fine bend of land which encircles Chale Bay, 
 
 is here seen directing a westerly course for a considerable 
 extent, until it terminates in the extremity of the island, 
 where are situated the rocks so well known by the familiar 
 term of the Needles. Along this range of coast, distinguished 
 by the beauty of its bays and promontories, the Atherfield 
 Rocks, Brixton Bay, the high cliffs of Freshwater, and the 
 Needles, all bounded on the south and south-west by the 
 British Channel, pass before the eye in regular succession, 
 until the view is terminated by the Isle of Purbeck, and in 
 very clear weather by the high land of Portland, which, rising- 
 like a cloud upon the horizon, adds considerably to the ge- 
 neral effect; and if in the same scope we embrace a fine 
 tract of highly cultivated country, commencing from the edge 
 of the cliffs to the westward of Chale, and extending along 
 a chain of downs that reach from Shorwell to the Needles, 
 we shall have completed our description of this ENCHANTING 
 PROSPECT, so calculated to afford gratification to amateurs 
 of picturesque scenery." 
 
 tMRS. RADCLIFFE, 
 e celebrated novelist, has in her Journal the following re- 
 marks ; " The Underclifl is a tract of shore formed by fallen 
 cliffs, and closely barricadoed by a wall of rock of vast height. 
 We entered upon it about a mile from Niton, and found our- 
 selves in such a Druid scene of wildness and ruin, as we never 
 saw before. The road is for the most part close to the wall 
 of rock, which seems to threaten the traveller with destruc- 
 tion, as he passes frequently beneath enormous masses that 
 lean forwards. On the other side of the road is an extremely 
 rugged descent of about half a mile towards the sea, where 
 sometimes are amphitheatres of rock, their areas filled with 
 ruins, and frequently covered with verdure and underwood 
 
70 
 
 that stretch up the sides with the wildest pomp, sheltering 
 here a cottage, and there a villa among the rocky hillocks. 
 
 " We afterwards ascended by a steep, rugged road to the 
 summit of the down, from which the views are astonishing 
 and grand in a high degree : we seemed perched on an ex- 
 treme point of the world, looking down on hills and cliffs of 
 various height and form, tumbled into confusion as if hy an 
 earthquake, and stretching into the sea, which spreads its 
 vast circumference beyond. The look-down on the shores 
 and sea is indeed tremendous." 
 
 THE REV. P. WYNDHAM 
 
 Speaks of the Undercliff in equally glowing terms : " Here 
 a wall-like, rectilinear precipice of lofty rock extends itself 
 some miles in length, and at the distance of more than a mile 
 from the sea : in this interval of rock and water, colossal 
 fragments of stone, torn or sunk from the precipice by some 
 great convulsion of Nature, are scattered below in the most 
 irregular confusion. These solid masses are of such ponder- 
 ous magnitude, that they form high eminences of the most 
 capricious shapes ; while their intermediate spaces become 
 deep vallies, in which houses are built, and even ashes and 
 elms are seen to flourish, sheltered from the storms and spray 
 of the sea by the hospitable shade of the lofty fragments. 
 Every spot of this land that can bear the impression of a 
 plough, is uncommonly fertile and well cultivated ; but the 
 fruitful patches are of all sizes and figures, and the huge 
 rocks, covered with briars, frequently arise from amidst a 
 
 polygon enclosure of two or three acres. If the mind of 
 
 any person can remain tranquil on the first view of this won- 
 derful country, or if he can gaze with indifference on the 
 sublime scene above and below him, I do not envy the cool 
 phlegm of his constitution, but I should advise him to confine 
 his future airings to the level and dusty roads that surround 
 our metropolis." 
 
71 
 
 THE LATE MR. WEBSTER, 
 
 Professor of Geology, writes : " Nothing can be more inte- 
 resting, particularly to those who take pleasure in aquatic 
 excursions, than to sail between and round the Needles. The 
 wonderfully colored cliffs of Alum Bay, the lofty and tower- 
 ing chalk precipices of Scratchell's Bay, of the most dazzling 
 whiteness and elegant forms : the magnitude and singularity 
 of those spiry insulated masses, the Needle Rocks, which 
 m at every instant to be shifting their position, and give 
 mazy perplexity to the place ; the screaming noise of 
 uatic birds ; the agitation of the sea, and the rapidity of 
 etide, occasioning not unfrequently a degree of danger.... 
 1 these circumstances combine to raise in the mind unusual 
 emotions, and to give the scenery a character highly singular 
 and romantic."- And again, "The view of the end of the 
 le of Wight from the Needles, at any time, is one of the 
 f uncommon, and at the same time, one of the mostmag- 
 iccnt scenes in Great Britain " 
 
 M 
 
 In the year 1817, gives a sketch of the same part of the island. 
 "In good time we approached the Needles. The specta- 
 cle was grand. Our officers gazed in admiration. The very 
 icn, who swarmed upon the deck, made a pause to look 
 pon the giddy height. The most exact steerage seemed ne- 
 cssary to save the ship from the sharp rocks that compress 
 e waters into the narrow strait below. But she passed 
 easily through. There is something imposing in entering 
 England by this access. I afterwards entered at Dover, in 
 a packet from Calais ; my eye fixed upon the sentinels as they 
 slowly paced the heights. But those cliffs, bold as they are. 
 and immortalized by Shakspeare, did not equal the passage 
 through the Needles." 
 
 [R. RUSH, THE AMERICAN AMBASSADOR 
 
 ; c 
 
 TJNITEKSJ 
 
72 
 
 SIR H. ENGLEFIELD, 
 
 The celebrated antiquarian and geologist, was an enthusias- 
 tic admirer of the island ; take for instance his description of 
 the Prospect from the Downs near Brading : 
 
 To enjoy in all its glory, the complete view of the nor- 
 thern tract, which in detail presents so many separate 
 beauties, we must ascend the chalk range that rises imme- 
 diately from the woods of Nunwell. When the weather 
 
 is clear, it is impossible to describe the magnificent scene 
 which these hills command, from Brading Downs, by Ashey 
 Sea-mark, and soon quite to Arreton chalk-pit. 
 
 " To the north, the woodlands form an almost continued 
 velvet carpet of near 10,000 acres, broken only by small 
 farms, whose thatched buildings relieve the deep tints of 
 the forests. The Wootton River winds beautifully among 
 them, and beyond the whole the Solent Sea spreads its wa- 
 ters, which in clear weather is tinged with an azure more 
 
 deep and beautiful than any I ever saw. The Hampshire 
 
 land rises in a succession of hills quite lost at length in blue 
 vapour. The inland view to the south is far from destitute 
 of beauty, though less striking than the northern scene. 
 The vale between the chalk range and the southern hills is 
 seen in its full extent : and the southern hills themselves 
 rise to a majestic height. To the eastward the sea is again 
 visible over the low lands of Sandown, and by its open ex- 
 panse affords a fine contrast to the Solent Channel. 
 
 "The nearer objects on the southern slope are also very 
 interesting : Knighton is bosomed in the richest groves : 
 Arreton is also surrounded with trees, which group happily 
 with the pretty church, and an old mansion now converted 
 into a farm : and from the western end of the downs, the 
 country about Newport and Carisbrooke is seen to great ad- 
 vantage. Such is the faint outline of a scene, ivhich, in 
 richness of tints, and variety of objects, surpasses anything 
 1 ever saw" 
 
CHAPTER HI. 
 
 ARCHITECTURAL OBJECTS 
 
 Conspicuous antr Interesting to ttje Courist 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 THE PRINCIPAL SEATS, 
 
 'irst those more particularly distinguished for Architec- 
 tural Dignity or Picturesque Beauty. 
 
 OSBORNE, 
 
 The property of HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, 
 is entitled, equally from public interest and its own 
 importance, to the first notice under this head. 
 The situation is everyway eligible for the marine 
 residence of a sovereign of the British Isles : for it 
 commands a most extensive and animated prospect, 
 including Spithead and other naval stations : has a 
 beautiful sea -beach (with a private landing-place) ; 
 and is sheltered by extensive woods and plantations. 
 The original seat was a plain family mansion sur- 
 rounded by park-like grounds, which have been 
 extended by the purchase of several farms in- 
 cluding BARTON (whose fine old Elizabethan ma- 
 nor-house has received a complete and judicious 
 
74 
 
 reparation : so that the estate is now most conve- 
 niently bounded on the west by the high-road from 
 East Cowes to Newport ; on the south by a branch 
 of the same road to Ryde; on the east by a sheltered 
 cove called King's Quay (as tradition will have it 
 from the circumstance of King John there conceal- 
 ing himself for a time when opposed by the barons): 
 and on the north-east by the beautiful Solent Chan- 
 
 f 
 
 nel. Thus compassed by the sea and the best roads 
 in the island, it extends from north to south about 
 two miles and a half, by nearly two miles from east 
 to west; enjoying the most delightful variety of 
 scenery, from the simple picture of rural life to the 
 grandeur of our NAVAL GLORY, and the majesty of 
 
 the ocean itself. 
 
 The quality of the soil differs very considerably; but 
 the worst is well adapted for oak plantations ; and the 
 thorough draining and other improvements now carrying- 
 on will make the whole admirably suited for agricultural 
 pursuits, to which H.R.H. the Prince Consort is very par- 
 tial. A great part of the estate is enclosed by a park- 
 fence; and through the luxuriant woods and undulating 
 grounds, several miles of excellent private carriage-roads 
 have been constructed, much more being in progress. 
 
 The PALACE occupies the site of the old house ; 
 it is in the Palladian style (which so admirably 
 admits the application to domestic architecture 
 of the most beautiful features of the Grecian 
 orders). Within the ballustrade of its lofty flat 
 roof is a charming promenade in fine weather. 
 
 The flag-tower is 107 feet in height, t he 
 
lock-tower 90, the first terrace wall 17, and the 
 cond 10. The Royal Apartments are contained 
 the loftiest part of the builidng they are hand- 
 
 ome and spacious, and standing altogether in 
 advance, command on every side the most unin- 
 terrupted views : at the back is the flag- tower, 
 communicating with an open corrider which extends 
 the whole of the north-west face of the building : 
 and on the other side of the tower is the carriage- 
 entrance, opening on pleasure-grounds adorned 
 with the choicest varieties of ornamental shrubs 
 thriving with a luxuriance which promises well for 
 the appearance of the estate, when the whole shall 
 have been finished. The builder is T. Cubitt, esq. 
 but the design, we believe, was principally fur- 
 nished by His Royal Highness Prince Albert him- 
 self whose taste and knowledge of the fine arts, 
 well qualify him for the undertaking. 
 
 As it would be almost impossible to convey by verbal de- 
 scription a correct idea of the general appearance of this 
 noble structure, we beg to refer our readers to the Views 
 of Osborne, recently published in the "Vectis Scenery," 
 and which may be purchased separately at Is. each. 
 
 APPULDURCOMBE, 
 
 Was formerly the finest seat in the island : the 
 mansion occupying the centre of a very wide and 
 fertile domain ; and altogether formed a subject of 
 
76 
 
 particular interest with those visitors who had any 
 pretensions to taste : whether on account of the 
 beauty of the style of landscape gardening which 
 the grounds displayed ; or for the valuable collec- 
 tion of paintings and relics of antiquity which the 
 house contained, the latter allowed to be viewed 
 twice a week by tickets readily obtained of the 
 steward in Newport. 
 
 With the late Earl Yarborough, (the respected 
 Commodore of the R. Y. Squadron,) this was a fa- 
 vorite residence ; but soon after his demise, we re- 
 gret to state, the whole domain was advertised for 
 sale ! the many surrounding farms (which were 
 amongst the best in the island) sold off: the nu- 
 merous herds of deer for the greater part shot on 
 the spot : the most valuable pictures, &c. removed, 
 and the remainder, with part of the library and 
 nearly all the furniture, sold off by auction : the 
 house also was in the market for a considerable 
 time, untenanted ! 
 
 That the reader might be able to form an opinion 
 for himself, how far Appuldurcombe was really 
 entitled to the general eulogy bestowed on it, we 
 subjoin the following brief but truthful description : 
 
 " The mansion has four regular fronts of the Corinthian 
 order, built principally of free stone ; and a handsome 
 colonnade facing the south. The grand entrance in the 
 
 
77 
 
 ern front is through a very spacious hall adorned with 
 eight beautiful columns resembling porphyry ; and on this 
 floor are several handsome apartments, containing the paint- 
 ings and various relics of antiquity. The offices are very 
 commodious; and on the first and attic stories are upwards 
 of twenty bed-chambers with dressing rooms. The build- 
 ing of the house was commenced in 1710, and finished by 
 Sir Rd. Worsley." 
 
 We give also the emphatic words of the Rev. 
 William Gilpin, so famous for his writings on 
 
 B* Picturesque Beauty :" 
 "Here everything is uniformly grand: the house is 
 magnificent, and it is magnificently furnished. The 
 rounds too are laid out in a style of greatness equal to 
 
 e mansion." 
 
 NORRIS CASTLE, 
 Is a magnificent edifice, built in imitation of an an- 
 cient structure of the Norman style, plain and 
 massive : though in its general features grand and 
 imposing. The arrangement of the apartments 
 too is considered very judicious. 
 
 Few persons would suppose, on viewing the 
 castle at a short distance, that it was a modern pro- 
 duction : for the walls are constructed in a way that 
 gives them a weather-stained appearance ; which, 
 together with the uncommonly luxuriant growth of 
 the ivy that envelops the loftiest towers, impress 
 the whole with an air of venerable antiquity. 
 
 Standing on the steep slope of the most northern 
 
78 
 
 point of the island, it commands a beautiful view 
 of, and is conspicuously seen from, the whole range 
 of the opposite shore, together with the home-coast 
 
 as far as Ryde and St. Helen's. The stables, 
 
 &c., are on an unusually large scale, constructed in 
 a similarly heavy character with the castle itself. 
 
 N orris was originally the property of the Rt. Hon. Lord 
 Henry Seymour, who died in 1831 ; subsequently it was 
 chosen for the summer-residence of their R.PI. the Duchess 
 of Kent and the Princess Victoria : and has since been pur- 
 chased by R. Bell, esq. 
 
 EAST COWES CASTLE 
 
 Is a very picturesque structure in the Moorish style 
 presenting towards the cardinal points fronts 
 of varied elevations, having a most pleasing diver- 
 sity in the form of the several towers ; and the 
 whole being finished with a neat detail. 
 
 The situation is particularly happy commanding a fine 
 prospect of the interior of the island and the River Me- 
 dina, with Cowes Harbour immediately in front : the 
 richly-wooded banks of Southampton Water retiring in beau- 
 tiful perspective. The grounds, though not extensive, are 
 most judiciously laid out and improved : falling with an easy 
 undulating slope, and shaded by several handsome groups of 
 mixed trees, of which the kingly oak is the most conspicuous. 
 
 East Cowes Castle was built by the celebrated architect, 
 John Nash, esq. After his demise it passed through several 
 hands, and is now the property of George Tudor, esq. 
 
 STEEPHILL CASTLE, 
 
 Is situated in one of the most favored spots of that 
 romantic region called the Under cliff, (p. 42). 
 
79 
 
 It seems to have been the aim of the architect to 
 combine as much as possible, all the internal ad- 
 vantages of a regular plain mansion, with the com- 
 manding form and embellished detail which usually 
 characterize a castellated structure. It is not 
 therefore open to an objection which lies against 
 many of the most showy specimens of this 
 dignified style of building that internal conveni- 
 ence was sacrificed to the production of bold and 
 pleasing contrasts in the face of the exterior ; or 
 that it was the growth of successive improvements. 
 Indeed, both inside and out, all appears to be hand- 
 somely proportioned and well arranged ; while in 
 any point of view the whole presents an aspect of 
 
 elegant simplicity. 
 
 The general form of the castle is an oblong ; and the 
 most prominent features. ..one majestic square tower which 
 springs from about the centre of the north side, another 
 tower of an octagon form at the south-eastern angle ; and a 
 beautiful hall-entrance on the east. The predominant tint 
 
 a dark gray ; but the battlements, quoins, and mouldings 
 of a light warm color, resembling the Bath stone. This 
 
 position of tints has a most pleasing and chaste effect when 
 closely examined ; but at a distance the whole melts into a 
 
 ber hue like the gray impression of time, and hence har- 
 
 onizes the more sweetly with the surrounding scenery. 
 
 oth kinds of stone are procured on the spot. 
 
 It was built in the year 1833 by the proprietor, JOHN 
 HAMBROUGH esq. 
 
80 
 
 NORTHWOOD HOUSE 
 
 Is well entitled to a place under this head, but 
 we must refer our readers to the article " Cowes." 
 
 NORTHCOURT, 
 
 Situated in the village of Shorwell, is a spacious 
 line old mansion of the age of James I. placed 
 in the centre of a most beautiful sylvan theatre, 
 for it is closely surrounded by steep and fertile hills 
 adorned with hanging wood. On the north side 
 stretches a swelling lawn shaded by an ancient 
 avenue and groups of magnificent elms ; while to 
 
 the westward, 
 
 " An impending grove 
 
 Screens it behind with reverential shade," 
 There are also several ornamental appendages 
 
 dispersed through the grounds ; a pretty fanciful dairy ; a 
 very elegant mausoleum, a prospect temple, &c., enriched 
 by a variety of appropriate verse. 
 
 The most remarkable of the old Manor-houses, 
 next after Northcourt and Barton, a.re....Westcourt 
 and Woolverton, both near Shorwell, Yaverland 
 and Arreton, each adjoining its respective church : 
 several others have within the last few years 
 been either allowed to go to ruin, or thoroughly 
 modernized^ which is certainly worse than total 
 destruction. 
 
81 
 
 The other Principal Seats are... 
 
 NUNWELL, near Brading, the most ancient in 
 
 e Island, having been held by the GLADDER 
 ily from the time of the Norman conquest. The 
 
 ansion is rather plain ; but spacious, and in a good 
 situation both for shelter and prospect: and the 
 Park aifords noble specimens of almost every spe- 
 cies of forest trees, particularly oaks, several of 
 which are many centuries old, the worthy baronet 
 
 ,ving long employed every possible means of pre- 
 
 rving these venerable chiefs of the grove. 
 
 THE PEIOEY is situated on the coast three 
 miles eastward of Eyde, and derives its name from 
 occupying the site of a monastic cell. The house is 
 
 handsome building of free-stone, placed some 
 distance from the shore ; with a fine open lawn in 
 front, and backed by noble groves the freshness 
 ^ of whose foliage is remarkable, considering their 
 exposure to sea breezes from the north and east. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, a little eastward of Eyde, though 
 not an extensive demesne, and the house has 
 little to boast of but its exquisite position, is 
 really a beautiful residence in every respect fine tim- 
 ber and diversified grounds, with a marine prospect 
 ' as enchanting as any in the Island. Close by, and en- 
 joying the same delightful views, is APPLET HOUSE, 
 a conspicuous erection in the Elizabethan style. 
 
 I GATCOMBE PAEK lies about three miles 
 
 L 
 
82 
 
 s.w. of Newport. The house itself is an uninte- 
 resting object, for though large, it is a perfectly 
 plain square edifice : but the variety and beauty 
 of the grounds, which are adorned with luxuriant 
 groves, and screened by high steep downs, with 
 the presence of a small transparent lake, on the op- 
 posite side of which appear the Church and Parson- 
 age, altogether aiford a very charming picture. 
 
 SWAINSTON presents an agreeable landscape 
 on our journey to Freshwater, 3^ miles from New- 
 port' finely timbered, and the house commodious, 
 though of an unpretending aspect. 
 
 WESTOVER (two miles further on,) is not seen 
 from the direct road; the mansion is a modern 
 structure in a very elegant style, and well-screened. 
 
 PEENHILL, ^ noticed in the account of Wootton 
 
 FAIELEE, ) village and the town of Newport. 
 
 AFTON, EAEEIKGFOED, THE MEDINA HEEMIT- 
 
 AGE, and some others, partake so much of the gene- 
 ral characteristics of the Isle of Wight seats, as to 
 render local description an unnecessary repetition. 
 
 IJ^'Under the title " Principal Seats," no little difficulty 
 was presented where to draw a fair line of distinction ; be- 
 cause many YILLAS, especially the marine, possess a claim 
 to the epithet perhaps equally with several of the Country 
 mansions for instance, the Orchard, Mirables, St. Lawrence, 
 East-Dene, and numerous others ; therefore the reader must 
 refer to the LIST at the end of the work for a full enumera- 
 tion ; and by the term " Seat" we wish to be understood as 
 meaning a residence especially distinguished for architectural 
 magnificence or an extensive demesne, whether coupled or not 
 with manorial antiquity. 
 
SECTION IT. 
 
 REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY, 
 
 THE Island could never boast of many important 
 ilitary structures, and indeed the only instance 
 deserving a stranger's particular attention is... 
 
 Carisbrook Castle, 
 
 " Which presents a scene of magnificence in ruins," 
 says the celebrated Mr. Gilpin, "as well worth see- 
 ing as any object in the island." It stands on a 
 steep hill of nearly a circular form, about a mile 
 west of Newport. The principal entrance is thro' 
 an ivy-vested gateway between the two western bas- 
 tions, which leads to a second of a higher date 
 opening into the court-yard, and guarded by two 
 
 Ioble round towers, which yet... 
 " A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur wear," 
 This view of the castle possesses an uncommon 
 degree of picturesque beauty the most luxuriant 
 ivy is everywhere seen mantling the grey walls and 
 mouldering battlements, interspersed with the wav- 
 g branches of wild vegetation : and the surround- 
 g terraces are adorned with the opposing tints of 
 ines and every variety of deciduous trees. 
 
 At the ISLE, angle, on a mount raised considerably 
 above the other buildings, stands THE KEEP, a 
 multangular tower, to which the ascent is by a 
 flight of 72 steps, of nine inches each; this is 
 
84 
 
 thought to be the original fortress, constructed 
 most probably by the Saxons, as it was described to 
 be in the sixth century a place of strength and im- 
 portance, provided with a well 310 feet deep, which 
 has since been filled up as dangerous and useless. 
 The old castle covered less than two acres of ground; 
 but it received from time to time various additions 
 -particularly in the reign of Elizabeth, when the 
 whole was substantially repaired, and now circum- 
 scribes about twenty acres of land. 
 
 At the S.E. angle are the few remains of another 
 ancient tower called MONT JOT'S, the walls of which 
 in some places are eighteen feet thick. 
 
 The most amusing curiosity within the walls of 
 the castle is a well 300 feet deep, which produces 
 in the driest seasons water of the purest quality. 
 It is usual to entertain visitors with the experiment 
 of letting down a lighted candle in a lamp to show 
 the immense depth of the well : the lamp, as soon 
 as it reaches the water, produces a loud report, and 
 if a bucket of water be thrown in, the sound is quite 
 startling. 
 
 Formerly it was the practice to drop in pins for the ex- 
 periment, but this was strictly forbidden, as having a ten- 
 dency to injure the quality of the water which is drawn up 
 by means of an ass treading inside a large windlass-wheel. 
 The longevity of these patient laborers is not a little 
 remarkable ; one performed the duty 45 years, and another 28. 
 
85 
 
 he apartments are large and well proportioned, 
 as formerly Carisbrooke Castle was the regular seat 
 of the insular government : but now the place is 
 sadly neglected, and consequently dilapidations too 
 much suffered to extend. 
 
 To go over the whole works of this venerable 
 monument of antiquity, and describe in detail the 
 several parts usually shown to strangers, would be 
 perfectly tedious to the reader, though doubtless 
 every spot and fragment must be viewed by the 
 
 (isitor with a lively interest. 
 We must not however omit to recommend a cir- 
 umambulation on the terrace, previous to taking our 
 save : the walk is in some parts sequestered and 
 most pleasingly solemn, in other points presenting 
 ery charming views ; and altogether calculated to 
 aise our admiration, and give a more perfect idea 
 f this beautiful specimen of ancient fortification. 
 
 " Sad are the ruthless ravages of time ! 
 The bulwark' d turret, frowning once sublime, 
 Now tottering to its base, displays 
 A venerable wreck of other days." 
 
 The castle has been rendered conspicuous in 
 English history by the confinement of king Charles 
 the First, who taking refuge here at the time of his 
 division with the parliament, was unexpectedly 
 detained a prisoner from November 1647 to Sep- 
 tember in the following year; and on the king's 
 death it was converted into a prison for his children. 
 
86 
 
 With regard to any other remains of MILITARY ANTI- 
 QUITY, it has been already observed, that none have yet been 
 discovered in the island, the forts of Cowes, Yarmouth, 
 and San down claiming no higher date than Henry YIIL 
 
 While speaking of "Antiquities," it may here be noticed, 
 that many of the barrows on the different downs have at 
 various times been opened, but the exhumed treasures have 
 generally fallen very short of what was expected. 
 
 EELIGIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS. 
 
 The Isle of "Wight had, like every other part of 
 England previous to the Reformation, its full share 
 of monastic and other ecclesiastical institutions, of 
 which the most magnificent was... 
 
 Built in the 12th century, and situated in a charm- 
 ing valley near Ryde, on the road to Newport. 
 
 Of this once-famous establishment, little now 
 remains, except some of the outer walls (which are 
 stated to have circumscribed nearly 30 acres), and 
 a very small portion of the appendant offices of the 
 abbey, which had been degraded into barns, cow- 
 sheds, &c. ; indeed the only pleasing fragment 
 standing at the present time, probably a portion of 
 the chapel, though interesting as a memorial of the 
 past, has been treated with the utmost neglect. 
 
 Quarr was among the first monasteries of the 
 Cistercian Order in England, and very largely en- 
 dowed ; but after its dissolution, was purchased by 
 
87 
 
 a Mr. Mills, merchant of Southampton, and re- 
 duced for the sake of the bare materials ! Several 
 illustrious persons were buried in the chapel, and 
 some very sumptuous monuments erected to their 
 lemory. The merchant's son afterwards sold the 
 estate to the Lord Chief Justice, Sir Thomas Mem- 
 ing, with whose descendants it still remains. 
 
 Near St. Helen's once stood a Priory of some consequence ; 
 but it shared the same ignominious fate as Quarr- Abbey; for 
 not a vestige now remains but is wrought into the walls of 
 cow-sheds and other farm-offices. 
 
 There was also a Priory at Appuldur combe ; one at St. 
 Cross, near Newport ; and another at Carisbrooke (vestiges 
 of which may still be traced) ; together with a great number 
 of oratories, chantries, chapels, and religious houses, amount- 
 ing in the whole to 70 or 80, exclusive of the regular parish- 
 
 urches ; and yet not one of these interesting objects has 
 
 .rvived the reckless doom to spoliation, neglect, and ruin ! 
 scarcely a spiry fragment sufficiently large or romantic to 
 form a pleasing subject for the pencil, invite the mind to 
 
 ntemplation, or aid the poet's retrospective muse. 
 
 m 
 
 : 
 
 SECT. III. LANDMARKS AND 
 
 CONSPICUOUS OBJECTS ON THE HILLS. 
 
 IT must be a pleasing circumstance to every tra- 
 veller who wishes to comprehend the course he is 
 pursuing when making the tour of the Island, and 
 who loves occasionally to contemplate the more 
 extensive prospects, that so many of our highest 
 
88 
 
 hills are adorned with some far-seen object tower, 
 church, obelisk, or light-house, Avhich serve the 
 useful purpose of different landmarks to direct his 
 steps, indicate the location of any particular seclud- 
 ed spot, or determine the bearings of one place from 
 another. In a picturesque light they are extremely 
 interesting, by imparting a discriminative character 
 of identity and beauty to many of those broad fea- 
 tures of scenery which, without them, would be per- 
 fectly tame and monotonous. 
 
 The most remarkable of these Objects are... 
 CAEISBEOOKE CASTLE, near the centre of the island. 
 The two TOWEES on the summit of St. Catharine's 
 Hill : and on the north side, the ALEXAKDEIAN" 
 PILLAE, a noble column, 72 feet in height, and 
 bearing this inscription : 
 
 In commemoration of the visit of Ms Imperial Majesty 
 Alexander I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain, 
 in the year 1814 and in remembrance of the many happy 
 years' residence in his dominions this Pillar was erected by 
 Michael Soy. 
 
 OBELISK at Appuldurcombe : G-ODSHILL CHUECH. 
 YAEBOEOTJGH Monument on Bembridge Down. 
 The SEA-MAEK on Ashey Down a large triangular 
 
 erection, used to direct ships entering St. Helen's 
 
 roadsted. 
 
 BEACON and LIGHT-HOUSE on Freshwater Cliffs. 
 Tall CHUECH-TOWEE above West Cowes ; and the 
 
 lofty PBOSPECT-TOWEES of Osborne Palace. 
 
 
CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 
 
 
 e principal of these in respect both of antiquity and 
 population is the borough of Newport : next are the in- 
 creasing towns of E>yde and Cowes. Yarmouth and New- 
 town are both very ancient boroughs, and formerly returned 
 each two members to Parliament, thereby giving them a 
 political importance of which they were deprived on the 
 passing of the Reform Act in 1832 ; and now instead of 
 six members, only three are returned, viz. two for Newport 
 d one for the County of the whole Isle of Wight. 
 
 NEWPORT, 
 
 account of its municipal privileges, and its 
 large stationary population, may well be considered 
 
 te capital of the island. It enjoys a most conve- 
 ent, central situation, and possesses the advan- 
 ge of a fine navigable river called the Medina, 
 which joins the sea at Cowes, and admits of heavy- 
 freighted vessels to come up with every tide to a 
 commodious quay on the north side of the town. 
 It lies in a dry valley closely surrounded by culti- 
 vated hills of considerable elevation, and is well 
 watered on the east and west by copious streams. 
 
 The streets are disposed with much regularity, 
 
 If 
 
.90 
 
 open, well-paved, and of good descent : the houses 
 in general are modern and respectably built, 
 indeed upon the whole, there is scarcely another 
 little town in the kingdom more happily situated 
 in point of agreeable environs ; or of itself more 
 neat and cheerful in appearance. 
 
 The greatest improvements to Newport were the 
 erection of a new G-TJILDHALL and a permanent 
 public Library, which occupy very conspicuous sites 
 nearly in the middle of the town. The Hall was 
 designed by the late John Nash, esq., and is a very 
 elegant, spacious edifice, particularly commodious 
 in its internal arrangements. Here the magistrates 
 of the whole island meet every Saturday for hearing 
 and determining parochial questions or other petty 
 causes, and for examining prisoners charged with 
 felony, previous to their commitment for trial at 
 the Winchester sessions and assizes. The County 
 Court for the recovery of small debts throughout 
 the Isle of Wight, is also held here at the usual 
 periods. The Hall a few years ago received the 
 addition of a new clock, at a cost of about 300. 
 
 In the area beneath the Hall is kept the Satur- 
 day's market for poultry, eggs, butter, &c. 
 
 THE ISLE OF WIGHT INSTITUTION is the desig- 
 nation of the permanent Library, which was built 
 by subscription in the year 1811, at the expense of 
 
3000. It is supported by nearly all the gentry 
 of the island, and contains a room for newspapers 
 and periodical publications, a library, a room fitted 
 up as a museum for local curiosities, &c. Tempo- 
 rary residents in the island may become subscribers 
 
 r six months by payment of 25s. 
 
 The old parish-church, St. Thomas', was a plain 
 uilding, with a lofty square tower, and though of 
 
 me antiquity, had little to call for particular no- 
 
 ce : its decayed condition rendering another struc- 
 
 re desirable, and the necessary fund being raised 
 y public subscription, the first stone of the new 
 
 hurch was laid in 1854, by H. R. H. Prince Albert. 
 't is of handsome design, and must be regarded as 
 a decided improvement to the appearance of the 
 town. The other places of public worship are... a 
 Roman-catholic, and seven dissenting chapels, viz. 
 two Independent-presbyterian, one "Wesleyan-me- 
 thodist, a Primitive-methodist, a Bible- Christian, a 
 Unitarian, and a Particular-baptist. Besides these, 
 an Episcopal chapel, St. James's, of a neat design 
 and convenient interior, w r as a few years ago opened 
 at the south entrance of the town, supported on the 
 voluntary principle ; and another, St. Paul's, on the 
 eastern side, near Barton's village. 
 
 The Grammar-school of the town is an object of 
 some interest, from its antiquated appearance : and 
 
92 
 
 also as having been the place chosen for the me- 
 morable conference between king Charles I. and the 
 commissioners appointed by Parliament to meet 
 him on the occasion. It is situated on the left- 
 hand side of the street leading to the Cowes road : 
 and a short time since was thoroughly repaired. 
 Near this, on the opposite side of the way, is seen 
 the handsome front of the new Independent Chapel. 
 
 Newport returns two members to Parliament. 
 The number of inhabitants in the town (which has 
 considerably extended beyond the limits of the 
 borough,) is between 7 and 8000. The shops are 
 numerous, many of them elegantly fitted up, and 
 amply stocked with the choicest goods in every 
 branch of business. 
 
 A market is held every alternate Wednesday for 
 cattle : and on every Saturday a general market for 
 agricultural produce, &c. which in fine weather 
 is crowded by all ranks of people from every part 
 of the island : and presents to a stranger a very 
 lively and amusing scene. 
 
 The annual fair is on "Whit Monday, Tuesday, 
 and Wednesday : but the principal season of rustic 
 gaiety is at Michaelmas, during what are familiarly 
 termed the three BAE,GAIIS T -PAIE SATUBDAYS, when 
 the country female servants assemble at one parti- 
 cular part of the town, and the men at another, as 
 candidates for new situations. 
 
 
93 
 
 The town supports five respectable inns, viz. the 
 , Star, Green Dragon, Wheat-sheaf, and Swan, 
 
 and two assembly-rooms. There are also, a well 
 conducted Mechanics' Institution, several circu- 
 lating-libraries, private reading- societies, and a pub- 
 ic Museum, which though yet in its infancy, is 
 supported with a fair amount of spirit, and will we 
 trust before long be found well worthy the scientific 
 stranger's attention. 
 
 Though Newport does not depend, like the wa- 
 tering-places, upon the annual influx of visitors for 
 a season, yet many of the most convenient houses 
 
 e fitted-up for genteel lodgings. In the time of 
 ar however, when Albany barracks are usually fully 
 ccupied, the town becomes frequently so crowded 
 with strangers (principally military gentlemen and 
 their friends) that lodging-letting is then of course 
 
 profitable speculation with every house-keeper 
 who can possibly spare a few rooms for the purpose. 
 
 g5p If the visitor have time, he would be much 
 pleased with a walk over Mount-joy, to the south- 
 ward of Newport. Proceed by Node-hill, and 
 there will be little difficulty in finding the path over 
 the summit of the down : it stands as nearly as 
 possible in the centre of the island, and affords... 
 
 "A gaily checquer'd, heart -expanding view, 
 Far as the circ'ling eye can shoot around.', 
 
94 
 
 The tourist should, "when posted on the specu- 
 lative height," refer to the section LAND-MAEKS, 
 page 87, where the different objects that crown 
 
 the surrounding hills are noticed. Advance to 
 
 Carisbrooke, and return by the New Village. 
 
 THE ENVIRONS OF NEWPOET. 
 
 Several rising villages and hamlets immediately 
 connect with, or are fast approximating the town. 
 On the eastern side, surrounded bv meadows, is 
 
 ? / 
 
 BAETON'S VILLAGE : on the south is SHIDE, pic- 
 turesquely seated at the foot of a steep lofty down 
 called Pan, with the river Medina flowing through 
 the grounds : to the west, a lengthened street of 
 genteel and comfortable houses, called the NEW 
 VILLAGE, some of which are furnished for respect- 
 able lodgings. There is also a small hamlet on 
 HUNNT-HILL, the north entrance to the town. 
 
 The extensive Lace-factory of Mr. Nunn is situ- 
 ated at the eastern side of the town, on the road 
 to Ryde : about half a mile beyond it is a gentle- 
 man's residence called BELLECEOFT. 
 
 FAIRLEE is a first-rate seat half-a-mile north 
 of Newport : the grounds well wooded, and beauti- 
 fully sweeping down to the eastern bank of the river. 
 
 At the distance of a mile on the road to West 
 vCowes, we pass on our right the HOUSE OF IN- 
 DUSTRY, a large establishment for the reception 
 
95 
 
 >f the paupers from every parish in the island, and 
 containing generally from 5 to 600 within its walls. 
 Opposite the House of Industry is the grand mi- 
 litary depot called PARKHCTRST or ALBANY 
 5 ARRACKS, which are capable of accommodating 
 "om 1500 to 2000 men. For many years they 
 rere unoccupied, but in the spring of 1842, they 
 were again put in requisition for the reception of 
 troops. 
 
 PARKHURST PRISON, 
 
 situated to the north of the Barracks, and em- 
 >racing the buildings formerly the military Hos- 
 pital, is an extensive Asylum for the corrective 
 discipline of juvenile offenders, by teaching them 
 various trades, and otherwise preparing them to 
 become hereafter better members of society. The 
 results of the first few years were deemed so satis- 
 factory, as to lead to the erection of another similar 
 building on the side of the adjacent hill : in both 
 there is now sufficient room for the reception of 
 between 6 and 700 delinquents ; and a very good 
 idea of the arrangements may be formed on passing 
 by, as the distance from the high-road is not more 
 than three or four hundred yards. No visitor is 
 admitted except by an express order from the 
 Secretary of State. 
 
96 
 CABISBEOOKE VILLAGE, 
 
 From its proximity to Newport, seems almost to 
 belong to it, both places being in fact now nearly 
 connected by the extension of modern buildings. 
 
 This pretty village is still very populous, though 
 much less so than formerly, when it enjoyed the 
 consequence of a city, guarded by the only fortress 
 in the island to which the inhabitants could fly for 
 refuge in the moment of invasion; it is situated 
 about a mile west of 'the town, ascending a hill 
 opposite that on which stand the venerable ruins 
 of the Castle ; in the intervening valley a beautiful 
 stream winds its course towards Newport, suffici- 
 ently copious to turn several mills ; and the springs 
 supply water highly esteemed for its purity. 
 
 The church is of great antiquity, having been 
 built in the llth century ; and its tower is a very 
 handsome specimen of Grothic architecture, proudly 
 relieving itself from the surrounding trees and ha- 
 bitations. There are several genteel residences, 
 and a few good lodging-houses in the village, whose 
 neatly dressed gardens, interspersed with lofty 
 trees, and environed by the most agreeable scenery, 
 give to the place altogether an uncommon air of 
 rural beauty. 
 
 ' For an account of the Castle see page 83. 
 
UNIVERSITY 
 
HYDE. 
 
 THIS fashionable and improving watering-placf 
 occupies the east and north sides of a lofty hill, 
 opposite Portsmouth, from which it is nearly five 
 miles across. This short passage, from its safety 
 and general convenience, proves a great local ad- 
 vantage, being regularly performed several times 
 a- day by excellent steam-vessels in about half an 
 hour. Besides these established means of convey- 
 ance, large-sized wherries are in constant attend- 
 ance to take parties across upon moderate terms, 
 or for hire by the day : they are esteemed by nau- 
 tical men to be the finest sea-boats in the kingdom. 
 
 The town is distinguished into Upper and Lower 
 Ryde, only from the variety of position : though 
 comparatively a few years ago it consisted of two 
 hamlets, with intervening fields. 
 
 The principal streets are very open, clean, and 
 well-paved ; regularly disposed, most of them 
 crossing each other nearly at right angles. Several 
 of the handsomest run parallel almost in a direct 
 line to the beach, thus affording the very desirable 
 advantage of an interesting sea-view. 
 
 As the contemplation of an extensive and well- 
 filled prospect is a source of truly refined plea- 
 sure with most travellers, it will be no digression 
 
 N 
 
98 
 
 to assist those at Ryde in discriminating the prin- 
 cipal features of the surrounding scene. 
 
 The foreground of the Pier generally presents a most ani- 
 mated picture, crowded with promenading fashionables ; 
 and numerous wherries, steam-packets, and other craft, at 
 anchor or gaily sailing about ; a busy scene which forms a 
 striking contrast to the quiet sylvan charms of the home- 
 coast, extending many miles east and west, and embellished 
 by several delightful villas and other marine residences, 
 among which are Osborne Palace (indicated by its two lofty 
 towers,) and Norris Castle, just beyond. We have the 
 Solent Channel seen, from here to peculiar advantage, on 
 the one hand contracting to the appearance of a noble 
 river, and on the other expanding and uniting with the open 
 sea. The far-famed anchorage of Spithead occupies the 
 centre, with St. Helen's to the eastward, for ships of war ; 
 and westward, the Motherbank and Stoke's Bay, for mer- 
 chantmen and colliers ; every day increasing or diminish- 
 ing in number, and hourly altering their position with the 
 changing tides. On the opposite nearest shore, conti- 
 guous to Monkton Fort, is a splendid range of houses 
 called Anglesea villa ; close behind, the immense mass of 
 brick buildings that form the grand naval hospital of Has- 
 lar, with the town of Gosport in its rear ; opposite which 
 are the celebrated fortifications of Portsmouth, with its 
 noble harbour affording calm security to the maritime glory 
 of England : Southsea Castle stands a little to the east- 
 ward, and beyond that is the low level of Hayling Island. 
 
 The line of the Portsdown hills, on one of which is Nel- 
 son's monumental pillar, usually bounds the view to the 
 north ; but in clear weather our range of perspective em- 
 braces a portion of the South Downs, which are crossed by 
 the London road near Petersfield : and on the left, the 
 beautiful retiring banks of Southampton Water to the town 
 itself, backed by the woodland heights of the New Forest; 
 
99 
 
 while to the right it extends to the spire of Chichester 
 Cathedral ; but with the aid of a glass even to the azure 
 promontory of Beachy-head. 
 
 This indifferent outline sketch will be sufficient to 
 satisfy the reader, that few prospects in England can^ur- 
 pass the one obtained from Ryde and its neighbourhood, 
 perhaps even in point of agreeable composition, but certainly 
 not as a perpetual source of the most amusing observation. 
 
 .~~ 
 Of the many conspicuous dwellings which adorn 
 
 almost every street in the town, the most splendid 
 are the uniform range emphatically called THE 
 TERRACE, occupying a commanding situation, and 
 having a fine sloping lawn in front, interspersed 
 with several noble trees. 
 
 Such has been the demand for genteel houses, 
 that a building speculation on that part of the 
 beach called the Duver, and on St. John's estate, 
 near Appley (eastward of the Pier,) has succeeded 
 beyond all expectation ; a considerable number of 
 first-rate dwellings are already erected, and several 
 still in progress. In every other direction too, we 
 see the most delightful residences being created, 
 so that Ryde is certainly becoming by much the 
 largest town in the island. 
 
 In fact the number of handsome houses is now so great 
 that it would be quite futile to attempt to point them out in 
 a discriminative way, either by their local or architectural 
 peculiarities. 
 
 The Market-house and Town-hall is a spacious 
 well-designed structure, and affowis a proof of the 
 
100 
 
 spirited conduct of the inhabitants, in thus antici- 
 pating the demands of a much larger population 
 than the place at present contains. 
 
 Another most splendid erection (at least for a 
 country town,) is the ROYAL VICTORIA ARCADE, 
 containing fourteen shops, and a spacious room for 
 the exhibition of works of art : as yet however it 
 has not proved a very advantageous speculation. 
 
 Ryde being in the parish of Newchurch, the 
 episcopal places of divine worship are as chapels 
 of ease on the voluntary system, of which there are 
 three : two private property, that have been built 
 some years ; and one very handsome church, re- 
 cently erected by public subscription, on the eastern 
 side of the town. The dissenting-chapels are for 
 Independents, Wesleyans, and Primitive-methodists, 
 and the year 1846 dates the opening of a Ro- 
 man-catholic chapel, of beautiful design and most 
 elaborate workmanship, constructed principally at 
 the expense of the munificent Countess Clare. 
 
 Close to the water on the west side of the Pier 
 is the Royal Victoria Yacht-Club House, the first 
 stone of which was laid on March the 2nd, 1846, 
 by H.R.H. Prince Albert, with all the imposing- 
 parade and ceremony that might be expected from 
 so august a personage officiating on the occasion. 
 
 There are several first-rate and secondary Ho- 
 tels and Inns in different parts of the town, for the 
 
101 
 
 names and situations of which the reader is referred 
 
 (to the List at the end of the work. The lodging- 
 houses are of course very numerous : in all the va- 
 riety of rank and accommodation, from the humble 
 myrtle or jessamine cottage at 20 or 30 shillings 
 per week, to the lordly mansion at as many guineas. 
 During the latter summer months, the theatre 
 is opened by a talented company of comedians. 
 The shops are generally very imposingly fitted-up 
 and well-stocked : and in the literary and fancy 
 lines are several excellent establishments news- 
 rooms, circulating-libraries, bazaars, c. 
 
 The ROYAL ISLE OF WIGHT INFIRMARY, just above Rydc, 
 is a conspicuous erection, and is found to be of essential 
 
 service to the neighbouring poor. About a mile from the 
 
 town, near Aldermoor mill, pottery works have been com- 
 menced, which, if successful, will afford employment to a 
 considerable number of persons. 
 
 
 AQUATIC PARTICULARS. 
 
 THE PIER. This indispensable accommoda- 
 tion to the inhabitants of Rvde is firmly constructed 
 
 ' V 
 
 of timber, and carried out to the very great length 
 of nearly half a mile : thus affording a most charm- 
 ing promenade, particularly to convalescents who 
 require the invigorating sea-breeze. It was first 
 opened in the year 1814, but since then it has re- 
 ceived repeated additions of no less then 1000 feet : 
 viz. 500 in the summer of 1824, and the same in 
 1833; arid in 1842, the splendid improvement of 
 
102 
 
 a new Head being made sufficiently large to admit 
 of several vessels laying alongside at the same time. 
 
 Previous to the erection of the Pier, it was customary, 
 except during the short interval of high water, for the pas- 
 sengers to be crammed into a common luggage-cart, and 
 then drawn through the waves by a horse upon the sands 
 till it reached a depth sufficient for a boat to float along- 
 side, into which they were then transferred, and conveyed 
 off to the packet. The reader will readily believe that this 
 united cart and boat process of landing or embarking could 
 not be very inviting at the best of times ; but it was really 
 terrific to weak and timid persons during the concurrence 
 of a fresh gale, a heavy rain, and the tide perhaps at its 
 lowest ebb ! to say nothing of the horrors of a dark and 
 squally night. 
 
 THE SHORE of Ryde is represented to have been 
 about the middle of last century as little better 
 than a continuous waste of disgusting mud ; which 
 indeed is rather remarkable, for at present there 
 is a thick and increasing layer of fine white sand, 
 sufficiently firm to support wheel-carriages. 
 
 The descent however is so very little, that at low water 
 it becomes almost an extensive level, and after having been 
 exposed seven or eight hours to a powerful sun in calm wea- 
 ther, renders the sea as it flows almost equal to a warm bath. 
 
 That part of the beach called THE DUVER is remarkable 
 as having been chosen for the interment of the crew of the 
 Royal George, a ship of 108 guns, which sank at Spithead on 
 August 29th, 1782, by a sudden squall, while undergoing a 
 careening of her bottom, when nearly 1000 persons perished. 
 
 Near the Pier are the bathing-machines, well 
 attended, and in full operation ; together with hot, 
 tepid, and other baths for invalids. 
 
103 
 
 An ANNUAL REGATTA has many years been es- 
 tablished at Ryde for the very laudable purpose of 
 giving encouragement to the skilful and deserving 
 watermen of the place. 
 
 The sailing and rowing matches are for liberal subscrip- 
 tion-prizes ; the time generally fixed is in August or early 
 in September : and now that there is a local Yacht-club 
 of the first respectability, no doubt but the attractions of 
 the Ryde Regattas must rival any in the kingdom. 
 
 On these festive occasions, the Pier is in its whole length 
 crowded by well dressed persons assembled from both town 
 and country to view the amusements : which, with the gay 
 appearance of the numerous boats, steam-packets, and plea- 
 sure vessels sporting about in every direction ; the varied 
 display of colours ; firing of signal-guns and the playing of 
 music, with the sprightly bustle of the competitors alto- 
 gether produce a most animated and brilliant scene. 
 
 
 
 THE ENVIRONS OF RYDE 
 
 Are exceedingly pleasant, this being the best- 
 wooded quarter of the island ; and the presence of 
 several gentlemen's seats and villas impart to the 
 scenery a lively and engaging aspect. Indeed their 
 number creates a difficulty in the way of noticing 
 them by such characteristic touches, as would ena- 
 ble a stranger to distinguish one from the other. 
 
 A very favorite walk is on the strand eastward 
 of the Pier towards a lovely villa called APPLET, 
 much and justly extolled for its charming locality. 
 About half a mile further is ST. CLARE, a modern 
 castellated mansion : and contiguous, Puckpool, 
 another beautiful spot, having a picturesque resi- 
 
104 
 
 dence called CLIFF COTTAGE.- -SPRING VALE 
 is a rising hamlet, two miles from Ryde, consisting 
 of newly-built lodging-houses, with a Hotel, &c., 
 most agreeably situated on the beach. At a short 
 distance further is another equally pleasant little 
 village called SEA-VIEW, where the houses let well 
 for summer lodgings : the general name of the place 
 is Nettlestone, which boast of several genteel villas, 
 particularly SEA-FIELD, FAIRY-HILL, and SEA- 
 GROVE, Adjoining the latter residence are the 
 plantations of the Priory (page 81 :) whence 
 we should return by a lane which leads up by Fairy- 
 hill to Nettlestone Green : passing St. John's (p. 
 81,) near which a remarkably neat little church 
 has been erected. 
 
 Another equally delightful walk is westward of 
 the town, across the fields to BINSTEAD. We 
 pass on our left, STONEPITS' and BROOKFIELD cot- 
 tages, the new Parsonage, and several other tasty 
 genteel dwellings. The Church is a neat object 
 enough, having been rebuilt in 1842. To the north 
 and west of the cemetery are two rural cottages 
 
 * 
 
 standing in the midst of grounds long celebrated for 
 their picturesque beauty. Our walk may be ex- 
 tended with much pleasure by following a gravel- 
 path through the woods to Quarr (p. 86.) 
 
 " Whose mould'ring abbey-walls o'erhang the glade, 
 And oaks, coeval, spread a mournful shade." 
 
COWES, 
 
 From being a small maritime port, has risen into 
 celebrity as a place of fashionable summer resort, 
 on account of its superior local advantage for sea- 
 bathing, and its unrivaled attraction for gentlemen 
 fond of aquatic amusements. 
 
 These towns (being divided by the river Medina 
 into East and West,) occupy the most northern 
 part of the island, immediately opposite the mouth 
 of Southampton Water. 
 
 WEST COWES 
 
 Is at present by far the most populous of the two : 
 covering the side of a steep hill, and the houses 
 being built as it were upon a succession of com- 
 manding terraces, with lofty trees, shrubberies, 
 and gardens intermixed, the town has of course a 
 most agreeable and picturesque appearance when 
 viewed from the water. But it must be con- 
 fessed that this favorable impression is not a little 
 weakened on our first landing ; as the lower streets 
 are irregular and very confined, being occupied 
 principally by tradesmen, who of course crowd 
 near the beach to possess the advantage of conve- 
 nient quays and jetties : a circumstance that is also 
 
 o 
 
106 
 
 considered by many strangers a great recommen- 
 dation to their lodgings, several of which will be 
 found in the first style of accommodation. 
 
 The upper part of the town, however, is more 
 open and pleasant, containing numerous large and 
 respectable lodging-houses, which overlook the 
 busy and ever-amusing scene of the crowded har- 
 bour : besides having an extensive prospect of the 
 Solent Channel, the beautiful banks of Southamp- 
 ton River, and the wide woodland expanse of the 
 New Forest. 
 
 There are several Hotels (see the List) : circu- 
 lating-libraries, reading rooms, a Mechanics' Insti- 
 tution, &c. 
 
 The places of religious worship, besides the 
 original Church that stands on the hill above the 
 town, are three chapels for .... Roman-catholic, 
 Wesley an, and Independent congregations ; and an 
 Episcopalian church near the beach, private pro- 
 perty, and of recent construction ; this is certainly 
 the most pleasing architectural feature of which 
 the town can boast, whether viewed near, or from 
 a distance on the water. 
 
 Cowes having a clean pebbly shore with a rather 
 bold descent, excellent bathing is practicable in 
 almost every state of the tide : the numerous ma- 
 
" 
 
 107 
 
 Chines are well attended ; and both here and in the 
 town are hot and other baths for invalids. 
 
 The buildings which chiefly attract attention at 
 West Cowes are. ...THE CASTLE, built in the reign 
 f Henry VIII, mounting only 11 nine-pounders on 
 semicircular battery : the dwelling received a few 
 ears ago an additional story, and the whole place 
 was subjected to such a variety of alterations, as to 
 ive it the modern air of a private residence. 
 
 A few yards behind the fort, is a beautiful " Go- 
 thic villa ;" adjoining which on the east is the Club- 
 ouse of the original Royal Yacht- Squadron ; and 
 beyond, an extensive and well-finished range of 
 buildings called the Terrace. These stand on THE 
 PARADE, which is at the water's edge, and forms 
 a very delightful promenade during the summer 
 months. 
 
 The stranger on landing should enquire first for 
 the Parade, and then proceed along the sea- shore 
 westward of the Castle, near which are the bathing 
 nachines. He will presently pass the marine villas 
 of the Marquis of Donegal and Earl de Grey ; when 
 he should turn his attention towards several uncom- 
 monly tasty lodging-houses that stand a little 
 above the beach, partly screened by low woods, 
 and in the midst of which stands the new church. 
 
108 
 
 The whole of this quarter presents many very eli- 
 gible sites for building on, commanding as it does 
 so interesting a marine prospect ; and a number of 
 respectable houses have recently been constructed 
 in an elegant and picturesque style. The back- 
 ground is the steep slope of the hill, clothed with 
 a hanging copse : and altogether this presents a 
 scene of considerable interest and beauty. 
 
 About half a mile further to the westward is a 
 gentleman's residence called WESTCLIFF or EGYPT, 
 known by its antiquated air, and occupying a small 
 green level on the shore. 
 
 We should now return by passing directly under 
 the new church, and then follow the road which 
 ascends from the back of the castle to the walls of 
 NORTHWOOD PARK, a comparatively modern 
 seat, with well-planted grounds : the House is a 
 fine structure in the Grecian style : but most of 
 
 %. 
 
 the splendid furniture and works of art which 
 adorned the interior were sold soon after the de- 
 mise of its late proprietor, G.H.Ward, esq. (1849). 
 
 On the eastern slope of the hill, where the high- 
 road turns off for Newport, stands WESTHILL, a 
 charming cottage-ornee in the centre of a smooth 
 sloping lawn interspersed with magnificent elms 
 and close shrubberies. 
 

 109 
 
 In the environs of Cowes are several other gen- 
 teel residences : MOOR-HOUSE is distinguished by 
 its Gothic pinnacles and commanding station : 
 and near Gurnard Bay is a very pretty retired 
 seat, appropriately called from its situation, WOOD- 
 VALE. 
 
 
 
 THE HARBOUR 
 
 Of Cowes has the high character of heing " as safe 
 as any in the British Channel, and by far the most 
 convenient for vessels bound to Holland and the 
 East Countries : it is therefore much frequented by 
 ships to repair damages sustained at sea, and to 
 winter in, until the season permits them to proceed 
 on their respective voyages." There are spacious 
 Dock-yards at both towns (private property), 
 where an extensive ship-building trade is now car- 
 ried on. Several ships of war were here construct- 
 ed in the course of the last century, and latterly 
 
 / * %t 
 
 many first-class vessels, including some of the large 
 West India and other mail steam -packets. 
 
 T I V-Ol> 
 
 THE ROYAL YACHT-SQUADRON 
 
 Make this harbour their place of general rendez- 
 vous : and have an annual meeting and Regatta 
 either in August or September. On these occa- 
 sions it is impossible for language to give a correct 
 
no 
 
 idea of the gay and interesting appearance of such 
 a large assemblage of vessels, the finest in the 
 world, of every size and variety of rig, from the 
 stately ship down to the humble yawl. In addition 
 to the matches among the members of the Squad- 
 ron and of the Roval Thames Yacht-club ''whose 
 
 mi \ 
 
 summer-station is also at Cowes), the REGATTA is 
 generally enlivened by a public dinner and ball a 
 magnificent display of fireworks and sailing and 
 rowing- matches for subscription-prizes between the 
 local watermen. 
 
 EAST COWES. 
 
 This is at times a very busy little place (depend- 
 ing much on the shipping in the harbour), but has 
 nothing particular to call a stranger's notice, if we 
 except the landing-place made for the Queen's ac- 
 commodation. There is a small church (being a 
 chapel-of-ease to Whippingham) ; a principal ho- 
 tel, several good lodging-houses ; custom-house 
 stores, and large shipwright-yards. 
 
 But the hill above the town will afford a very- 
 interesting ride or perambulation, having been long 
 occupied by several first-rate seats; and should 
 the speculation of "THE PARK' ever take with 
 the public to the extent of remunerating the vast 
 
11 
 
 een incurred in laying out 
 
 the grounds and making the most spacious roads, 
 ertainly this quarter will eclipse all the rest of the 
 land in the aggregate of elegant residences and 
 eautiful villas, each enjoying the most interest- 
 ng prospects which can possibly be imagined. 
 But as the descriptive plans of this magnificent 
 undertaking have been for some time before the 
 public, it is unnecessary for us to state further, 
 than that some very handsome houses have been 
 built ; but the speculation has not yet been carried 
 out to the extent which might have been expected. 
 
 In ascending the hill by the old carriage-road to 
 ewport, we pass on our right the villa of Mr. 
 Aiildjo : and on the left, SLATWOODS, SPRING- 
 HILL, and ST. THOMAS, all three secluded by dense 
 shrubberies : a circumstance not much to be re- 
 gretted, especially as our eye will be attracted by 
 the beautiful turrets of East Cowes Castle ; at the 
 lodge -entrance to which a branch of the road leads 
 
 rn to Norris. 
 Proceeding for about a quarter of a mile, keep- 
 ing the plantations of East Cowes Castle on our 
 ight, we shall come to Osborne, and can then re- 
 turn through the Park. 
 
112 
 
 Nothing was so likely to give a fresh and powerful impe- 
 tus to the improvements of East Cowes, in respect of trade 
 and an extension of buildings, as the very fortunate circum- 
 stance of Her Majesty having preferred this part of the 
 kingdom for her occasional retirement from the onerous 
 splendor of the London and Windsor courts, or the annoying 
 curiosity of a Brighton populace. But here she has enjoyed 
 all the felicitous case of private life a happy exemption 
 from the too common nuisance of pressing crowds, their 
 gaze and deafening vociferation : and certainly she must be 
 very much pleased with the place, otherwise would not 
 perambulate with the Prince for miles on the public roads 
 without any of their retinue ; or have attended service at 
 the parish-church of Whipping-ham (about a mile and a 
 half), walking to and fro by themselves ; no ostentation 
 whatever : and much to their satisfaction, the islanders 
 show their good sense in not offering any other compliment 
 in passing, than the usual respects of common courtesy. 
 We regret however to state that latterly their attendance 
 at church has been necessarily almost discontinued, in con- 
 sequence of the rush of visitors there nearly every Sunday 
 during the stay of the court at Osborne. 
 
 WHIPPINGHAM, the parish church of East 
 Cowes, and one of the neatest little ecclesiastical 
 structures in the island, is passed on our road to 
 Newport. Close by are the Parsonage and PAD- 
 MORE HOUSE, embosomed in groves of noble 
 trees, and commanding a most extensive and inte- 
 resting prospect. This is a very pretty rural spot, 
 and to see it will make the difference of only two 
 or three minutes in diverging from the direct road. 
 
jWtnor Sfofong anfc ODfjtef FtUagcs, 
 
 ABRANGED ALPHABETICALLY. 
 
 ABRETOJN", four miles eastward of Newport, 
 consists of one long street of straggling cottages, 
 sheltered by a lofty down on the north, and open- 
 ing to an extensive vale in the highest state of cul- 
 tivation. The Church is a very ancient structure, 
 of rather a heavy and singular character : its inte- 
 rior is adorned by a beautiful mausoleum to the 
 
 memory of Sir L. W. Holmes, bart. 
 
 Arreton Church is generally visited by parties on their 
 tour, especially by those who have read the celebrated tract 
 of " the Dairyman's Daughter" whose tomb-stone stands 
 on the north side of the cemetery, having an appropriate 
 
 I and well written inscription. 
 BEMBEIDG-E is a large village at the extremity 
 of the peninsula of that name, opposite St. Helen's, 
 being the most eastern part of the island. Pre- 
 viously to the year 1830, it was a very obscure 
 hamlet ; but owing to the establishment of a horse- 
 boat and other improved means of access, it soon 
 rose to be a place of some attraction and now 
 boasts of several genteel villas, good lodging-houses, 
 a large hotel, and a neat episcopalian chapel. The 
 south-eastern portion of the peninsula is a lofty 
 down, terminating in the celebrated Culver Cliffs 
 (p. 25), and crowned by a lofty, handsome obelisk, 
 recently erected by the members of the Royal 
 Yacht Squadron to the memory of their late res- 
 pected commodore, Earl Yarborough. 
 
114 
 
 BRADINGr is a small borough town, and an- 
 ciently returned members to parliament - " a bur- 
 then" in those days from which the inhabitants 
 petitioned to be relieved : consists principally of 
 one long street, very pleasantly situated about four 
 miles S.E. from Ryde, surrounded by the park and 
 extensive woods of Nunwell. 
 
 The Church is the oldest in the island, having been built 
 in the year 704. The first converts to Christianity in the 
 island were here baptised : and frequently skeletons of gi- 
 gantic size (supposed to be the remains of ancient Saxons), 
 have been discovered on digging in the cemetery. Some 
 pleasing views of the country and haven are presented from 
 the church-yard ; and if the tourist feel any interest in the 
 examination of tomb -stone inscriptions, he will here find 
 several extremely well written. Little Jane, a name cele- 
 brated in the "Annals of the Poor," lies buried at the south- 
 east corner of the church 
 
 BEADING- HAVEN contains upwards of 800 acres of 
 ground, covered every tide by the sea, at which time it pre- 
 sents the appearance of a beautiful lake. As the sea comes 
 through a very narrow inlet at St. Helen's, several unsuc- 
 cessful attempts have been made to recover from its usurp- 
 ation so valuable a tract of land ; and the famous Sir Hugh 
 Middleton was engaged, and indeed succeeded for a short 
 time, by means of a bank of peculiar construction : but the 
 sea brought up so much sand, ooze, and weeds, as to choke 
 up the passage for the discharge of the fresh water, which 
 accumulating, in a wet season and a spring-tide, made an 
 irreparable breach, and thus ended an experiment which 
 cost altogether 7000. One circumstance was very remark- 
 able : namely, a well, cased with stone, was discovered near 
 the middle of the haven : an incontestible evidence, that at 
 some remote period, the spot was in a very different state. 
 
 BONCHUECH : see p. 36. 
 
 BEIXTON, only a mile from the sea, on the- 
 
115 
 
 road from Blaekgang Chine to Freshwater-gate, is 
 rather an extensive village ; and a few of the more 
 respectable houses let for lodgings during the sum- 
 mer months. The Church is an ancient and pictu- 
 resque fabric. 
 
 BROOKE a pretty rural spot near the shore, 
 three miles w. of Brixton : the Manor-house forms 
 the principal feature 5 for the parish-church is a 
 solitary erection on a knoll at the foot of the lofty 
 owns that stretch towards Ereshwater-gate, 
 
 CHALE is a considerable village in point of 
 population: but the cottages are very scattered, 
 and the place would be but little known, were it 
 not for its proximity to Blaekgang Chine. 
 
 The Church is a plain but venerable structure ; the lofty 
 old grey tower seeming still to scorn the assaults of the 
 elements, which it has braved for many centuries. The 
 contemplative tourist would, we are sure, feel interest in 
 examining the tombstone inscriptions, particularly those to 
 the memory of the sufferers in the wreck of the Clarendon ; 
 and in this cemetery have been interred, in the course of 
 ;es, without any memento whatever, hundreds of unfortu- 
 ate mariners who perished on this fatal part of our coast. 
 
 CALBOURNE, rather more than half-way from 
 ewport to Freshwater, is a pretty village, though 
 little of it is seen from the road in passing and 
 therefore the visitor ought to take a short stroll 
 towards the church ; it has a snug country inn, 
 and acquires both a beauty and local consequence 
 from its vicinity to the fine seat called Westover. 
 
 EISHHOTTSE, at the mouth of "Wootton River, 
 comprises several houses and a Dockyard. 
 
116 
 
 FBESHWATER is composed of a considerable 
 number of houses : some clustered near the church, 
 but the greater part widely dispersed. The coun- 
 try here is better screened by hedge-row trees than 
 is generally found at this side of the island. 
 
 FRESHWATER-GATE is close to the beach has 
 several cottages and two principal hotels. 
 
 GATCOMBE includes both a village and a first- 
 rate seat : but is so sequestered as to be seldom vi- 
 sited, although upon the whole it exhibits the most 
 charming inland scenery of any spot in the island. 
 
 GODSHILL borders on Appuldurcombe Park ; 
 is a large village, and distinguished by the very 
 picturesque situation of the Church, which is a 
 spacious and venerable pile, standing upon the sum- 
 mit of a steep hill commanding such an extensive 
 aud beautiful prospect, as will as of itself repay the 
 
 trouble of ascending. The interior of the church 
 
 is enriched with several costly monuments, ancient 
 and modern, in memory of various possessors of the 
 Appuldurcombe estates. 
 
 HA YEN- STREET : a village with a neat Church and 
 handsome parsonage, on the old narrow road from 
 Eyde to Newport, and about a mile south of the 
 present one. 
 
 KINGSTON (midway between Chale and Shor- 
 well), has a small church picturesquely seated on a 
 knoll, and embosomed in trees : the few cottages 
 are inhabited by the peasantry belonging to the ad- 
 
117 
 
 farm, which may be said to constitute nearly 
 
 the whole of the parish. 
 
 A 
 
 MEKSTOKE is a large hamlet on the road from 
 Arreton to Godshill. 
 
 MOTTISTONE (2m. from Brooke), is a pleasant 
 village, with a neat church. In the vicinity are 
 some remains of a small Druidical temple called 
 
 ! 
 
 NEWCHURCH is a retired village, about mid- 
 way from E/yde to the back of the island ; very 
 
 I picturesque : the steep road being deep-sunk be- 
 tween banks of sandstone rock, crowned by the old 
 church, and several cottages and noble trees. 
 
 INEWTOWN (1m. from Shalfleet), was anciently 
 a borough of some importance, though now reduced 
 to a few cottages ; a very handsome little church 
 I however has lately been erected. There are exten- 
 sive salterns, and a safe, convenient haven. 
 NITON contains many excellent houses and a 
 considerable population : being partly seated at the 
 foot of St. Catharine's Hill, and partly extending 
 along the Undercliff in the direction of the Royal 
 Sandrock Hotel, at the distance of about half a 
 mile from the sea-shore (see p. 48). Besides the 
 hotel just mentioned, there are (in the village) seve- 
 ral cottages furnished for lodgings, and a small inn. 
 SAND OWN is rapidly become a locality of con- 
 siderable attraction : the firm sandy shore and 
 marine prospects are very beautiful ; and it enjoys 
 all the facilities of excellent sea-bathing, with the 
 
118 
 
 advantage of a neat episcopal chapel (erected in 
 1845), and good hotel-accommodations. The FOKT 
 is of a quadrangular, plain construction, surrounded 
 by a wet fosse : and in time of war duly manned. 
 
 SHANKLIN : see p. 27. 
 
 SHALFLEET is rather a populous village, six 
 miles west of Newport ; the church is a large, an- 
 cient structure, and of a picturesque character. 
 
 SHOE, WELL: a beautiful rural spot, situated 
 five miles s.w. froin Newport, and the cottages 
 resemble those of Shanklin in their embellishment 
 of flowering shrubs ; but its greatest charm is de- 
 rived from the noble groves of Northcourt (p. 80). 
 
 STEEPHILL : see p. 42. 
 
 St. HELEN'S OREEN : a number of cottages oc- 
 cupying the quarters of an extensive verdant square. 
 There is a curious circumstance in. the history of its 
 original church, which stood near the beach, but in 
 consequence of having been threatened destruction 
 by the gradual encroachment of the sea, was removed 
 about a century ago to a more secure situation : the 
 old tower however was left standing, and is still 
 carefully preserved, for the purpose of a landmark 
 to ships entering the roadsted. The present church 
 is about a mile distant, on the Byde road. 
 
 St. LAWRENCE : see p. 43. 
 
 THOBLEY, occupying a fertile district between 
 Yarmouth and Calbourne, is of a limited population: 
 and remarkable for a parish-church which is gener- 
 ally mistaken for some spacious old barn. 
 

 119 
 
 "WHITWELL : a retired village between Gods- 
 till and Niton, rarely passed through by strangers 
 making the regular tour of the island : the church 
 is an ancient, plain structure with a square tower, 
 conspicuously seen from some of the neighbouring 
 high-roads. 
 
 WOOTTON-BBIDGE (or Wbtton, as it is 
 sometimes spelt), is a very clean, pretty village, 
 between Newport and Hyde ; the houses rising on 
 each side of Fishbourne Creek, which runs a consi- 
 derable way up the country. Excellent roads have 
 lately been formed on the north-west side of the 
 creek, which affords a very delightful drive, and will 
 probably ere long cause an increase of buildings in 
 that direction. 
 
 Under the favorable circumstance of a high, tide in a calm 
 sunny day, we are here presented with an extensive land- 
 scape of the richest character: particularly so in looking 
 southward of the village, where the river widens to a beau- 
 tiful lake. On the one side the retiring banks are steep 
 and irregular, and feathered from the very water's edge by 
 the most nourishing oak-woods in the island. This forest 
 scene is contrasted on the other side by the more polished 
 grounds of a gentleman's seat called FERNHILL, whose 
 light and elegant mansion stands at the head of a wide- 
 spreading lawn sloping to the river, and fringed with a 
 variety of trees and plantations of handsome growth. 
 
 On WOOTTON COMMON, which is a mile nearer 
 Newport, are several comfortable small houses, 
 forming an improving hamlet. One of these is the 
 humble domicile of the Artist, allowably designated 
 Landscape Cottage. 
 
120 
 
 YARMOUTH, situated at the western extremity 
 of the island, opposite Lymington, is a borough- 
 town, and obtained a charter of franchises as early 
 as the reign of Henry II: contains about 100 
 houses ; and derives its chief support from the ship- 
 ping which anchor in its excellent roadsted, and the 
 passengers to and from Lymington. 
 
 There are three inns one of which (the George,) was 
 formerly the Governor's House, where king Charles II was 
 entertained on his first landing in the island : there are also 
 several respectable lodging-houses. From its very open 
 aspect and charming marine prospects, this little town pos- 
 sesses a great recommendation to valetudinarians and other 
 visitors during the hottest summer months. 
 
 Tarmouth Castle, a small fort built in the time of Henry 
 VIII, and lately thoroughly repaired, has little pretensions 
 to military dignity, being constructed in a very plain but 
 solid manner. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river Yar is a pretty 
 village called NO-ETON. At both places are several 
 handsome residences of gentlemen partial to aquatic 
 pleasures, and about half-a-mile beyond Norton are 
 the extensive fortifications of SCONCE. 
 
 YAVEKLAND is a small village between Bra- 
 ding and Sandown : the Parsonage is a neat erection ; 
 the little church is of considerable antiquity, and 
 forms, with the adjoining old Manor-house and 
 several noble trees, a very pleasing rural scene. 
 

 - 
 
 9 = 
 
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 g fe - 
 
 IV, 
 
 H Q 
 
 TT) 
 
AND 
 
 LISTS OF INNS, COUNTRY-SEATS, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 TOURS OF THE ISLAND, 
 
 STRANGERS visiting the Isle of Wight for the 
 leading purpose of seeing its local beauties, should 
 allow themselves at least three clear days ; but even 
 four will be found quite limited, if they wish to 
 examine all the features of scenery to which their 
 attention will be constantly invited. 
 
 Many parties, however, whose object in visiting 
 the shores of the island is rather a pleasurable sum- 
 mer-jaunt than a particular desire to investigate 
 examples of the sublime and beautiful, content 
 themselves with a cursory glance at the most strik- 
 ing passages obtained during a two-day's excursion. 
 Some indeed take only one day's hasty trip to the 
 UnderclifF or to Freshwater Bay. 
 
 This difference in the fancy of travellers as to the time 
 allowed for their tours, together with the various starting- 
 points of Ryde, Cowes, Newport, and Yarmouth, to say 
 nothing of the diversity of plans recommended by the post- 
 masters even of the same place, render it quite impossible 
 to lay down any routes that shall prove precisely applicable 
 to all parties. 
 
 The best way therefore is, for the stranger first 
 to glance over the account of " the most celebrated 
 Features of Scenery '," with a local Map before 
 
122 
 
 him, at the same time comparing the annexed re- 
 gular tours of the island, and he will then be 
 enabled to decide for himself what course would 
 be everyway the most congenial to his particular 
 wishes. 
 
 N.B. Visitors quartering at Newport usually take three 
 or four daily excursions : but those at Ryde and Cowes ge- 
 nerally prefer a continued Tour. 
 
 CONTINUED TOUR FROBX RYDE, 
 
 ggf 1 The reader is referred to the List of Hotels 
 and Inns, for the extent of public accommodation 
 which the respective localities furnish. 
 
 FIRST DAY. MILES 
 
 St. John's, &c., (1m.) The Priory (2m.) 3 
 
 St. Helen's Green: old church tower ... 1 
 
 Bembridge (if across the ferry) ... 1 
 Yaverland Church and Parsonage ... 
 Sandown : the Fort ... ... ... 
 
 Shanklin CHINE and Village 
 
 Luccombe Chine ... ... ... 1 
 
 UNDERCLIFF (Jm>) Bonchurch (1m.) l| 
 
 Ventnor ... ... ... ... ... 1 
 
 Steephill Castle ... ... ... ... 1 
 
 St. Lawrence: the Villas and Church ... 1 
 
 > iton ... ... ... ... ... 2 
 
 Sleep here, or at Blackgang. 
 
 (Or direct by Brading, 19m.) 21 \ 
 
 SECOND DAY. 
 
 Sandrock Spring and Dispensary Cottage 1 
 
 BLACKGANG CHINE (gm.) -Chale (Jm.) 1 
 
 Kingston (2jm.) Shorwell : Northcourt (2m.) 4| 
 lirixtoii . ... ... ... ... 
 

 123 
 
 Mottistone (2m.) and Brooke (1m.) ... 3 
 FRESHWATER Gate ...... ... 4 
 
 The Needles Light-house (3) Alum Bay (1) 
 Sleep at Fr. Gate, or Alum Bay. 
 
 20 
 
 6 
 6 
 4 
 1 
 1 
 4 
 
 THIRD DAY. 
 
 Yarmouth (cross the ferry to the new Forts) 
 Calbourne : Westover 
 Carisbrooke the CASTLE on our right ... 
 Newport ... 
 
 Poor-house, Barracks, and Juvenile Prisons 
 West Cowes 
 East Cowes (crossing ferry) the Park, Norris, 
 
 East Cowes Castle, and OSBORNE ... 1 
 Whippingham Church : Padmore House 1| 
 
 Wootton-bridge: Fernhill ... ... 3 
 
 Quarr : ruins of an abbey ... ... 1J 
 
 -CV Y ClC ^ 
 
 , 311 
 
 TOUR FROM RYDE, in which Parties 
 sleep but one night in the Country. 
 
 FIRST DAY 
 
 St. Helens 
 
 Bembridge (ferry) 
 
 Yaverland 
 
 Sandown 
 
 Shanklin 
 
 Luccombe 
 
 East End 
 
 Bonchurch 
 
 Ventnor 
 
 Wroxall 
 
 Newchurch 
 
 Return to Ryde 
 
 4 
 1 
 
 31 
 
 OJ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Or by Brading, 26. 29 
 
 SECOND DAY. 
 
 Wootton-bridge 
 
 Arreton 
 
 Godshill 
 
 Appuldurcombe 
 
 Ventnor 
 
 Steephill 
 
 St. Lawrence ... 
 
 Niton 
 
 Merstone, 
 
 Arreton 
 
 Wootton 
 
 Ryde 
 
 31 
 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 
 21 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
124 
 
 THIRD DAY. 
 
 Newport ... 7 
 
 Carisbrooke ... 1 
 
 Shorwell ... 4 
 
 Brixton ... 2 
 
 Mottistone ... 2 
 
 Brooke ... 1 
 
 Freshwater-gate 4 
 
 Needles-point ... 3i 
 
 Alum Bay ... 1 
 Sleep here or at 
 Fr. gate 
 
 FOURTH DAY . 
 
 Yarmouth 
 Shalfleet 
 
 Barracks, &c. ... 
 West Cowes 
 East Cowes 
 Osborne 
 
 Whippingham ... 
 Wootton 
 Ryde 
 
 6 
 4 
 
 5 
 4 
 
 2 
 OJ 
 
 l k 
 3 
 
 28= 
 
 GENERAL TOUR FROM COWES. 
 
 FIRST DAY. 
 
 Parkhurst Prison, Barracks, and Poor-house 4 
 Newport ... ... ... ... 1 
 
 Carisbrooke Village the CASTLE on our left 1 
 Swainston, on the right ... ... ... 3 
 
 Calbourne : Westover ... ... ... 1 
 
 Yarmouth : cross the river to the new forts 
 Alum Bay ... ... ... ... 
 
 The Needles Light-house ... ... 
 
 FRESHWATER-Gate ...... 
 
 Sleep here or at Alurn Bay. 
 
 SECOND DAY. 
 
 Brooke (4m.) and Mottistone (1m.) 
 j>ri\ton ... ... ... ... 
 
 Shorwell : Northcourt ... ... 
 
 6 
 6 
 1 
 31 
 
 27 
 
 5 
 
 . 
 2 
 
 BLACKGANG CHINE (descend to the shore) 
 Sandpock Spring THE UNDERCL1FF 
 Niton : St. Catharine's Light-house ... 
 
L ; 
 
 125 
 
 St. Lawrence : the Church, and Villas ... 2J 
 
 Steephill Castle ... ... ... 1 
 
 VENTNOR ... ... ... ... 1 
 
 Bonchurch ... ... ... ... 1 
 
 May walk through the Landslip to Shanklin. 
 
 East End ; termination of the Undercliff 1 
 Here leave the carriage to look down on the Landslip. 
 
 uccombe Chine ... ... ... 0| 
 
 I Slianklin CHINE and Village . 
 Sleep here, or at Ventnor. 
 24 
 THIRD DAY. 
 
 Sandown : the Fort ... ... ... 3 
 
 Yaverland Church and Parsonage ... 
 
 Through Evading (one and a half miles), or 
 
 Bembridge. Cross the ferry ... 3g 
 
 St. Helen's Green ; old church-tower ... 1 
 
 The Priory, sequestered on the right ... 1 
 
 JTv\ Li C * O 
 
 Wootton-bridge : Fernhill ... ... 3| 
 
 Whippingham Church : Padmore ... 3J 
 East Cowes : Osborne, The Park, Norris 
 
 and East Cowes Castles ... ... 2 
 
 (Or direct by Brading 19m.) 22 
 
 TOURS FROM NEWPORT. 
 
 NORTH-EASTERX TOUR. 
 Wootton : Fernhill ... ... ... 
 
 Quarr ruins of an abbey on the left ... 
 
 -t* \ vl t * * 
 
 St. John's (1m.) St. Clare; Puckpool (|m,) 1 
 
 The Priory, sequestered on the left ... 1 
 
 St, Helen's Green : old church-tower ... l 
 
 (Through Brading to Yaverland, 3|m.) 
 
126 
 
 Bembridge (crossing the ferry) ... 1 
 
 Yaverland Church and Parsonage ... 3 
 
 Sandown : the Fort l| 
 
 Brading Down: Nun well on the right ... 3 
 
 Sea-mark on Ashey Down ... ... 2 
 
 Down-end : Arreton on the left ... 2 
 
 Newport 3 
 
 (Or direct by Brading, 24m.) 27 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 Arreton : the Church 4 
 
 Shanklin : the CHINE ... ... 6 
 
 Luccombe Chine ... ... ... ]i 
 
 UNDERCLIFF, commencing at East End o| 
 
 Bonchurch : old Church ... ... 1 
 
 Ventnor 1 
 
 Steephill Castle 1 
 
 St. Lawrence : the Villas, and Church ... 1 
 
 Niton: St. Catharine's Lighthouse ... 2 
 
 Sandrock Spring ... ... ... 1~ 
 
 BLACKGANG CHINE ... ... ... 0| 
 
 Return to Niton over St. Catharine's Hill 2 
 
 Rookley (4jm.) and Newport (4|m.) 9 
 (Or return by Chale, Chillerton, and Gatcombe.) 
 
 31 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 Carisbrooke Village the CASTLE on our left 1 
 
 Shorwell: Northcourt ... ... 4 
 
 Brixton ... ... ... ... 2 
 
 Mottistone (1m.) Brooke: the Church 3 
 
 FRESHWATER-Gate ... ... 4 
 
 The Needles Light-house ... ... 3| 
 
 Alum Bay ... ... ... 1 
 
 Yarmouth ... ... ... 6 
 
 Calbourne : Westover 6 
 
127 
 
 Swainston (IJm.) Carisbrooke Village (3m.) 41 
 Newport ... ... ... 1 
 
 (Or return from Yarmouth by Shalfleet and Park- 
 
 hurst, 35m.) 36 
 
 A Voyage Round the Island 
 
 Will be found very interesting, whether in a steam- 
 packet, which generally runs it in five or six hours, 
 or in a sailing-vessel or large wherry, with two or 
 more hands. The steamer has the advantage of 
 certainty in point of time, and perhaps is usually 
 more agreeable to persons of a timid disposition ; 
 but a vessel or large wherry will be found to afford 
 the most amusement, and if wind and tide be 
 favorable, one long day will be sufficient. 
 
 If we leave Cowes to the eastward, the most 
 remarkable places that present themselves are.... 
 Norris, Osborne, Wootton, Binstead, Ryde, Ap- 
 pley, &c. ; St. Clare, Spring-vale, Nettlestone, 
 Priory, St. Helen's, Brading haven, Bembridge. 
 As we round the Culver Cliffs, we open the 
 beautiful sweep of Sandown bay, with the village 
 of Sandown, and the romantic chines of Shanklin 
 and Luccombe : the distance however at which we 
 view these and other highly interesting features, is 
 frequently far too great to enable us to appreciate 
 their individual charms. The Undercliff follows, 
 
1-28 
 
 and we successively admire the Landslip, the beau- 
 tiful situation of Ventnor, Steephill, St. Lawrence, 
 and the villas of Old Park, Mirables, the Orchard, 
 and Puckaster Cottage. Leaving St. Catharine's 
 Light-house, we soon reach Blackgang Chine, above 
 which is St. Catharine's hill. From the Undercliff, 
 though we have a glimpse of Brixton, Mottistone, 
 and Brook, the prospect is comparatively tame till 
 we approach the Freshwater Cliffs : and as we 
 enter Scratchell's bay, the scene is one of dazzling 
 grandeur. Having left the Needles and Alum bay, 
 the two new forts and Hurst Castle will soon attract 
 our attention ; and a little beyond, Yarmouth ; 
 when, after passing Thorness bay and Newtown 
 river, we shall shortly find ourselves again in the 
 busy harbor of Cowes. 
 
 fiSfeT A full description of every object of interest may 
 be had in " Brannon's Voyage Round the Island" (with 
 seven views on steel), price One Shilling. 
 
HINTS TO PEDESTRIANS 
 
 our of tije 
 
 The Pedestrian who would realise the chief advantages 
 which his mode of travelling offers for the full enjoyment of 
 the charms of natural scenery, should be able to leave the 
 hot and dusty highways, for the pleasures of cool and ro- 
 mantic footpaths: as these however are frequently difficult 
 for the stranger to find, we shall here direct his attention to 
 a few of the most eligible. 
 
 8 
 
 NEWPORT TO SIIANKLIN Over St. George's 
 
 Down : at Branston-cross turn to the right, through Apse 
 farm and copse, and arross the fields, 
 
 TO VENTNOR. As above to Apse, where 
 
 a path to the right leads by Cooke's castle over the downs to 
 Ventnor. Or instead of eoino through Aneton, take lane 
 to Budbridge footpath ou the left to Godshill and through 
 Appuldurcombe ; the last has occasionally been closed. 
 
 TO FRESHWATER. A splendid, refreshing 
 
 walk over the downs, but, as indicated on the map, intricate, 
 being for some distance on the open turf, and crossed by in- 
 numerable cart- trucks. 
 
 FRESHWATER-GATE TO ALUM BAY. Between 
 
 these places endeavour to take boat one way, returning by 
 
 the edge of the cliffs. 
 
 ALUM BAY TO YARMOUTH. Edgeof the cliffs 
 
 good geological coast. Pass the two new Forts. 
 
 FROM SANDOWN TO SHANKLIN. On the shore 
 
 hut mind the tide: or through L.-.k- and a little bevond 
 path on the left t;> edge of ihe rliff follow to the right. 
 
 SHANKLIN TO BONCHURCH. Path by Luc- 
 combe, and through the Landslip. 
 
 ALONG THE UNDEHCLIFF. High-road best; 
 
 at Mitvbles, ascend Cripple-patb to the summit, of the cliff, 
 to enjoy the magnificent prospect of sea and land ; a path 
 hence leads to the village of Niton. 
 
 NITON TO BLACKGANG, May go over St. Catha- 
 rine's down a splendid view : or take the shore, by Light- 
 house a perfect scene of wild grandeur : highway, good. 
 
 BLACKGANG TO FRESHWATER. Road by Shor- 
 
 well, and through Bnxton ; or take shore and cliffs a fine 
 geological study to Brook. 
 
MAY, 1857. 
 
 BY STEAM-PACKETS. 
 
 H^IP Strangers are particularly requested to at- 
 tend to the following observations. We have always made 
 
 it a point to delay the publication of our Guides to as late a 
 period as we well could (often to a degree of inconvenience), 
 in order that our readers may be furnished with an accurate 
 statement of the precise time of the several passage-vessels 
 starting to or from the island: but this, instead of an advan- 
 tage, often proved a disappointment : for perhaps a change of 
 hours unexpectedly took place within a week or fortnight 
 afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the lime 
 of the railwa3's, or from some motive on the part of one or 
 other of the steam-packet companies. As this uncertainty is 
 as likely to be great as ever, we here insert the present times 
 rather to give an idea of the extent of accommodation on the 
 different passages, than as a correct guide for those persons to 
 whom it is of important consequence to know exactly to a 
 minute ; especially as strangers may easily procure the requi- 
 site information at the local inns, on board the packets, or at 
 the railway or booking offices. 
 
 Between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde, fy Portsmouth. 
 
 Southampton to Cowes 2.0 9.0 10.452.0 4.30 6.15 
 Later boat occasionally during the Summer season. 
 Ryde 9.0 2.0 
 Portsmouth 9.0 2.0 
 Portsmouth to Cowes 8.40 3.0 
 
 Southampton 8.40 3.0 
 Ryde to Cowes 9.10 3.30 
 
 Southampton 9.10 3.30 
 
 Cowes to Southampton 7.0 9.0 10,30 12.45 4.45 8.45 
 Ryde 10.30 3.30 
 Portsmouth 10.30 3.30 
 
 On Sundays the passages are less frequent. 
 
 The Excursion round the Island is made by one of these res- 
 sels, once every week, weather permitting, during the 
 season, leaving Southampton, and ca!linj at Co>ve. 
 
Ill 
 
 Portsmouth, Portsea, Gosport, and Ryde. 
 
 From Portsea 8.20 11.15 2.30 4.25 6.20 8.15 
 
 Gosport 8.10 11.20 2.25 4.15 
 
 Portsmouth 8.30 11.30 2.40 4.30 6.308.20 
 Ryde 7.15 9.45 1.0 3.30 5.30 7.15 
 
 Several extra passages during the season. 
 
 On Sundays from Portsea at 8.45 12.30 2.35 5.15 7.0 
 Ryde 7.50 10.0 1.35 4.15 6.0 
 
 The Excursion round the Island Is made by one of this Compa- 
 ny's fast boats every Monday and Thursday during tho 
 summer, when the weather is at all favorable. 
 
 From LYMINGTON Steamers run to Yarmouth 
 
 three or four times a-day : and one, the Solent, every morning 
 to Cowes, whence she proceeds on alternate days to Southamp- 
 ton and Portsmouth and by suiting her time to that of the 
 other steamers, maintains a daily communication between all 
 these places during the season. 
 
 Regular Sailing Passage-boats. 
 
 FROM COWES to NEWPORT, daily: the hours 
 depending; upon the state of the tide. 
 
 l ? rom WOOTTON to PORTSMOUTH at 9, re- 
 turning about 2|. 
 
 To POOLE the sailing-hoys run twice a-week 
 calling off Cowes and Yarmouth. 
 
 Land-Conveyances. 
 
 The STAGE-COACHES and Omnibuses. 
 
 (Usual times during the Summer.) 
 Most of the coaches omit travelling on Sundays. 
 
 Newport to Ryde 8.0 9.30 1.15 3.45 4.30 5.0 
 
 Ryde to Newpoit 9.30 9.45 10.30 12.15 3.15 6.0 7.0 
 
 The late coaches cease running from October to June. 
 
 Newport to West Cowes 8.15 9.40 12.0 3.20 5.0 
 W.Cows to Newport 10,0 12.0 3.0 6.4$ 
 
IV 
 
 W. Cowes to Ventnor by Godshill, about 3.0p.m. 
 
 by Blackgang, about 10. 3D and 
 
 returns by same route about 3. This is a summer coach. 
 
 Ventnor to W. Cowes by Godshill, about 10. a.m. 
 
 Newport the above coaches ; & vans all the year. 
 
 Ryde to Ventnor 10.0 10.30. 12 3J 3.15 7.0 
 Ventnor to Ryde 7.30 10.0 10.30 3.0 5.0 
 
 Blackgang to Ventnor. Ventnor to Blackgang, twice each 
 way [summer]. This coach is for the purpose of opening 
 Blackgang to the increased facilities for travelling ; and 
 to a fiord the visitor time to explore the place. 
 
 It will l>e seen that bv these conveyances, Visit.- 
 
 * ^ 
 
 ors arriving at Cowes or Ryde in the morning may 
 make the tour of one-hull the island the same day. 
 If from Ryde in the morning, they uould he re- 
 turned to Cowes in time for the train to London, 
 and the same from the latter to the former place. 
 
 But here we must caution our friends, as we did respecting 
 the steam-packets, that frequent alterations take place in the 
 hours of starting, perhaps in consequence of some change 
 made by the railway, but as often induced by the caprice of 
 the rival speculators ; some of them continuing throughout the 
 year, and others running only during the summer. 
 
 The CARRIERS. These of late have so in- 
 creased, that there is scarcely a \illag,e without one 
 or more lo Newport or R\de, between the latter 
 places, and Cowes and Ventnor, there are several 
 carts, vans, and omnibuses daily : and from the 
 less populous places, one every other day. 
 
 List of the Principal Inns. 
 
 NEWPORT, the Bugle; Mew. Star; Lambert. Wheat- 
 sheaf, Corn-market; J. Read. Green Dragon, Pyle- 
 street ; Warburton. Swan, High-street ; Cooke. 
 
 RYDK, pj e r Hotel; Barnes. Hotel, Union-street; Yelf. 
 Kent, Union-street : Roper. Crown, near the Theatre; 
 Woodrow. Eagle ; Newman. Star, upper part of the 
 town; Elkins. York Hotel & Boarding-ho.;. Oldfiold. 
 
'EST CoWES, Fountain, on the quay ; Bull. Vine, ad- 
 joining ditto; Furner. Marine Hotel, Parade; Aris. 
 Globe, ditto ; Heyward. 
 
 EAST COWKS, Medina Hotel; . Prince of Wales, near 
 toll-gate; Simpson. 
 
 YARMOUTH, George; Bright. Bugle; Butler. 
 
 FRESHWATER BAY, Plumbly's Hotel ; Lambert. Albion 
 ditto; Murrow. Needles Hotel, Alum. Bay ; Beazley. 
 
 BI.ACKGANG CHINE, Hotel; Jones. 
 
 NlToN, Royal Sandrock Motel ; G. Bush. Boarding-no, 
 on the shore; Jones. S\ bite Lion, Niton Vil.; Bright. 
 
 VENTNOR, Royal Hotel; Bush. Marine Hotel; Bush. 
 St. Boniface Hotel; Bailey. Esplanade Hotel; Cum- 
 niings. Crab and Lobster; Cass. 
 
 BONCHUKCH, Hotel; Ribbands. 
 
 SHANKLIN, Williams'* Hotel; Hollier. Hotel; Daish. 
 
 SAN DOWN, Hotel and Boarding- horse ; Hale. Star and 
 Garter; Brooks. King's Head; Kvans. 
 
 BEMBIUD E. Hotel, on the beach ; Powell. 
 
 BRADING, Wheat Sheaf; Wale. 
 
 CALHOUKNK, Sun ; Wood ford. 
 
 GODSHILL, Griffin ; JefTeries. 
 
 BRIXTON, New Inn ; Downer. 
 
 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL 
 
 SEATS & COUNTRY-VILLAS, 
 
 Mttl) tfje Xante? of tfjrtr proprietors or mtpters. 
 
 {Uf=>/?i those instances where no Occupiers' Names appear f 
 such Residences are generally to be sold or let. 
 
 OSBORNE HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN. 
 
 APPULDURCOMBE, R.W. Williams, Esq. 
 
 A ft on Manor-house, B. Cotton, esq. 
 
 Appley, near Ryde, J. Hyde, esq. 
 
 Apple\ -lovers, G. Young, Esq. 
 
 Arreton Manor, F. Roach, esq. 
 Beauehrimp, Undercliff, 
 
 Bellecroft, near Newport, W. Major Cooke, esq, 
 BetI)ridoe Parsonage, Rev. J. Le Mesurier. 
 Binstead Cottage, Major-Gen. Lord Downes. 
 Parsonage, Rev, Philip Hewitt. 
 
VI 
 
 Blackwatcr Cottage, 
 Bordwood, near Newchurch, 
 Brixton Parsonage, 
 Brook Manor-house, 
 Brook Rectory, 
 Brookfield Cottage, Binstead, 
 Calbourne Parsonage, 
 Calbonrne Lodge, 
 Cari.sbrooke House, 
 Castlehurst, nr. Carisbrooke, 
 Chale Abbey, 
 Chale Parsonage, 
 Chillerton, 
 
 Corsforphme-lodge, Ryde, 
 EAST COVVES CASTLE, 
 East-cliff, Bernbridge, 
 East Dene, Bonchurch, 
 Egypt House, nr. W Cowes, 
 FAlRLEE, nr. Newport, 
 Fairlee Cottage, 
 Fairy-hill, Nettlestone, W 
 Farringford, Freshwater, 
 FERNH1LL, VVootton, 
 GATCOMBE 
 Gatcoinbe Rectory, 
 Godshill Vicarage, 
 Harnpstead, near Shalfleet, 
 Haven -street Parsonage, 
 Hay lands, south of Ryde, 
 Hill-grove, Bernbiidge, 
 Hill-lodge, Freshwater, 
 Holmwood, Ryde, 
 Kite-hill, VVootton, 
 Lowcliff Lodge, Blackgang, 
 Marvel, near Newport, 
 Medina Hermitage, nr. Niton, 
 Mirables, Undercliff, 
 Mount Cleeves, ditto, 
 
 J.B. Rutherford, esq. 
 Sir Walter Stirling, bt. 
 Rey. E. Mc'All. 
 Charles Seeley, esq. 
 Rev. T. Gage. 
 
 Rev. A. M. Hoare. 
 
 the Misses Gnnter. 
 H. Pin nock, esq. 
 W. H. Barton, esq. 
 Rev. A. Gother. 
 W. Harvey, esq. 
 J.P. Lind, esq. 
 G. Tudor, esq. 
 Sir Gilbert East, bt. 
 Admiral Swinburne. 
 Robert White, esq. 
 
 R. C. Shedden, esq. 
 .A. Glynn, esq., D.C.L. 
 A. Tennyson, esq. 
 Samuel Sanders, esq. 
 Colonel Daly. 
 Rev. Dr. Barrow. 
 Rev. T. Ratliff. 
 J. Pennithorne, esq. 
 Rev. F.Kent 
 Captain Locke. 
 Hon. A. H. Moreton. 
 Capt, Hamond, R.N. 
 T.B. Maynard, esq. 
 D. Hollingsworth, esq. 
 
 J. Harvey, esq. 
 T. Hawkins, esq. 
 James Coape, esq. 
 
VII 
 
 Mottistone, R. Jessett, esq. 
 
 New Close, s.w. of Newport, T. B. Robinson, esq. 
 
 N ing wood House, 
 Niton Parsonage, 
 NORRIS CASTLE, 
 NORTHCOURT, Shorwell 
 NORTH WOOD HOUSE, 
 Norton Lodge, Freshwater, 
 NUN WELL, near Brading, 
 Oakhill, near Uyde, 
 Old Park, Undercliff, 
 Orchard, ditto, 
 Pad more, Whippingham, 
 
 Pidford, near Rooklev. 
 
 * 
 
 Pitt-place, Mottistone, S. Walmisley, esq. 
 
 PRIORY, N. of St. Helen's, R.A. Gray, esq. 
 Puckaster Cottage, Undercliff, C. Vine, esq. 
 
 Rev. T. Cottetl. 
 Rev. R. Dixon. 
 R. Bell, esq. 
 
 Sir H.P. Gordon, bt. 
 
 W. G. Ward, esq. 
 Sir G.E. Harnond, bt. 
 Sir H. Oglander, bt. 
 T.M. Leacock, esq. 
 
 Dowager Lady Gordon. 
 Rev. James Jolliff'e. 
 
 Puck pool, east of Ryde, 
 Ryde House, 
 Rookley Cottage, 
 Rosiere, Niton, 
 Sandow r n Parsonage, 
 
 Spode, esq. 
 Miss Player. 
 John Woodward, 
 
 Savery, Esq. 
 Rev. W. Thomas, 
 
 esq 
 
 Sealand Collage, Blaekgang, R. Pinnock, esq. 
 St. Clare, east of Ryde, Col. Vernon Harcourt. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, ditto, A.F. Hamilton, esq. 
 
 St. Lawrence Villa, Earl Yarbo rough. 
 
 The Cott, Hon. Mrs. Pelham. 
 
 St. Thomas' Villa, E. Cowes, Miss Barrington. 
 Sea-grove, Nettlestone, W.Gardiner, esq. 
 
 Sea -field, ditto, Henry Beach, esq. 
 
 Shorwell Vicarage, Rev. T. Renwick. 
 
 Spring-field, ditto, 
 Shide Cottage, nr. Newport, Faulkner, Esq. 
 
 House, 
 Steane Villa, Bembridge, 
 St. Helen's House, 
 Shanklin Parsonage, 
 
 Mrs. Foquett. 
 E. D. Featon, esq. 
 Capt. Eclwd. Oakes. 
 Rev. W. Southousc. 
 
 Slatwoods, near East Cowes, Miss Sheddeu. 
 
via 
 
 Spring-hill, ditto, Misses Shedden. 
 
 Southlands House, Blacking, Rev. E. Rider. 
 Standen, south of Newport, General Evelejji. 
 STEEPHILL CASTLE, A. Hainbroii|;h, esq. 
 Stick worth, Arreton, C. liaison, esq. 
 
 St. John's Parsonage, nr. Newport, Rev. R.Holliugs. 
 Stonepits' Cottage, Binstead, Capt. Brigstocke. 
 SVVA1NSTON, nr. Calbourne, Sir J. Simeon, bart. 
 The Battery, Sandown, Thomas Webster, esq. 
 
 The Farm, nr. Newport, C. W. Estcourt, tsq. 
 The Marina, Norton, Capt. Crozier. 
 
 Uplands, east of Kyle, C. Pavne, esq. 
 
 Upton Mouse, south of R}de, Admiral Hoare. 
 Ventnor Parsonage, Rev. J. Marland. 
 
 Wackhmds, nr. Nevvchurch, William Thatcher, esq. 
 WESTOVER, Calbourne, Hon. A'Court Holmes. 
 Westhill, Cowes, the Misses Ward. 
 
 Norton, Capt. Cro/ier. 
 
 West cliff, Niton, Captain Kerr. 
 
 West ridge, ea>t of Ryde, Mrs. Young. 
 Westbrook, ditlo, P. Mahon ; esq. 
 
 Whitcomb, near GUtcomhe, Mrs. Huiilies. 
 Widiomb Manor, nr.Whitweil, W. H. Diaves, esq. 
 Woodlands, eastof R\oe, Mrs. Percixal. 
 Woodside, near VVootion, 
 
 Woodvale, near Gurnard, Admiral Ffaringtoft. 
 Wootton Lodge, F. W. Popham, e>q. 
 
 Wootton Rectory, Rev. W. M. Scott. 
 
 Yaflonl, near Shorwell, James Jolliffe, esq. 
 
 Yuverland Parsonage, Kev. R. 8hersou. 
 

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