ADVERTISEMENTS. Stove anD rate dfcanufacturers LAUNDRY FURNISHINGS of every Description At lowest possible Prices. HOUSE FURNISHING IRONMONGERY. SPECIALITIES. JAMES GRAY & SON, Jronmonaers, 85 OEORGE STREET, Kitchen Ranges, Grates, Tiles, Fenders, Coal Boxes, Trays, Gasfittings, Lamps, Stoves, Mangles, Wringers, Knife Machines, Cooking Utensils, &c. Ivory Table Cutlery, Silver Spoons & Forks. The Quality of our Stock is well known. The Goods are marked in Plain Figures^ exceedingly Moderate in Price. Kitchen Range Makers by Appointment to the Edinburgh School of Cookery and Domestic Economy Limited. Catalogues and Every Information on Application. GENERAL FURNISHING IRONMONGERS, SMITHS, AND GASFITTERS. Note the Address 85 GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH. ADVERTISEMENTS. WILLIAM FOSTER, Wholesale & Retail Drysalter, Oil & Colour Merchant, and Varnish Manufacturer, 94 HIGH STREET, EDINBURGH. BRUSHES, COLOURS, VARNISHES, LACQUERS, AND ENAMELS. Price Lists on Application. LAUNDRY COAL. Messrs BURNS, M'CALLUM, & Co. supply all kinds of LAUNDRY COAL at lowest Market Prices, delivered in Edinburgh, Leith, and neighbourhood, or sent by rail or sea to any station or port in Scotland. Also HOUSEHOLD, STEAM, FARM, and GARDEN COAL, ANTHRACITE and BRIQUETTES, GAS COKE and CHAR. BURNS, M'CALLUM, & CO., Coal ano Gofee /iDercbants, 4 YORK BUILDINGS, and 2 CHURCH HILL PLACE, EDINBURGH, AND AT CTJPAR FIFE. Telegrams "COAL, EDINBURGH." Telephone No., 1084. ADVERTISEMENTS. ISDALE & M'CALLUM'S PRIZE MEDAL SOAPS. THISTLE SOAP, REGISTERED. "She can wash and scour." Two Gentlemen of Verona. "Wrapped in sweet clothes." The Taming of the Shrew, ISDALE & M'CALLUM'S SOAPS Have been famed for upwards of a QUARTER OF A CENTURY for their Excellence and Purity. The continuous growth in the volume of their trade during that period is a convincing proof of their SUPERIOR QUALITY. RECKITT'S STARCH. GUARANTEED PURE. RECKITT'S PARIS BLUE. LARGEST SALE IN THE WORLD, Noted for its beautiful Tint, which imparts snowy whiteness to linen. ADVERTISEMENTS. "The Ulster Queen." THE AIR BURNING COMPANY LIMITED, 49 NORTH ALBIOfl STREET, GLASGOW, Patentees for pure heat, the mildest to the most intense, for all purposes. Makers of Gas Calenders, Gas Irons, Fans for blowing air and gas into the Irons, and the other Laundry Appliances. The Directors and Managers are the original Inventors and Patentees of Gas Irons, and the Company are the most extensive makers of Gas Irons in the three kingdoms. These Irons are perfect in every respect, causing neither trouble to the Ironers nor bad smells. The cost of heating them is only about one halfpenny a day. For every 100 feet of gas they consume they burn 800 feet of air. Hence the name of the Company, " THE AIR BURNING COMPANY." ADVERTISEMENTS. FINEST RICE STARCH. MAIZE STARCHES. WHEAT STARCH. FARINA. CRYSTAL CARBONATE. BORAX. BLUE. JAPAN AND PARAFFIN WAX. "LONDON POLISH." And all other Starches and Materials used in Laundries and by Bleachers. JAMES ANDERSON & CO., 124 ST VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW. 707 GT. TOWER STREET, 49 PRINCESS STREET, LONDON, E.C. MANCHESTER. Works GLASGOW, QUAY, and ARBROATH. THE ART OF LAUNDRY WORK. ADVERTISEMENTS. FOR LAUNDRY REQUISITES No Selection equal to A. BLACK & CO.'S, 30 ST ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH. Laundry Brushes, Tubs, Stands, Dollies, Washing- Boards, Clothes Baskets, Lines, Pins, Stretchers, Two and Three-Leaved Screens, Nursery Horses, Short and Long Steps, Wood and Metal Pails, Scrubbing Brushes, Bass and Hair Brooms, Washing Cloths, Skirt Boards, Shirt Boards, &c. &c. Every variety of Brush for the Mansion, Stable, and Garden. Sponges, Chamois Skins. WILLIAM TAYLOR & CO. OF BRODGHTOI SOAP WORKS, EDINBURGH, HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEIR BEST PALE AND FINEST CROWN PALE BAR SOAPS, Made from pure Tallow, and are thus vastly superior in economy, durability, and sweetness to the much advertised oil soaps in tablets. In ordering Soft Soap, ask for WILLIAM TAYLOR & CO.'S PURE POTASH SOFT SOAP, free from Smell. THE ART OF LAUNDRY WORK PRACTICALLY DEMONSTRATED FOR USE JN HOMES AND SCHOOLS. BY FLORENCE B. JACK, HEAD TEACHER OF LAUNDRY WORK, EDINBURGH SCHOOL OF DOMESTIC ECONOMY. SECOND _JL JL EDITION. EDINBURGH : T. C. & E. C. JACK. LONDON: WHITTAKER & CO., PATERNOSTER SQ., E.C. 1896. A FEW OPINIONS. The Queen. "The very book we have been sighing for for long enough. Thoroughly practical, giving directions as excellent as they are plainly expressed, and apparently providing for every difficulty over which the beginner may stumble. It is emphatically a book that should be on the shelf of every house-mother." The Gentlewoman. "To learn all the latest tips in regard to that all-important household department, the laundry, no one can do better than study this most complete and handy text-book of the subject." Lady's Pictorial. " A capital book for the household." Liverpool Mercury. "A very practical little volume, clearly written, and well illustrated." The Manchester Guardian. "Is the work of a practical teacher, and is sensibly and clearly written." The Scotsman. "Thorough-going and practical." The Bristol Mercury. "The author of this work is head teacher of laundry work at the Edinburgh School of Domestic Economy, and practically makes her method of teaching available to any one else who chooses to follow it. Her instructions are thoroughly scientific and practical, and so clearly given, that we believe even the inferior being, man, could acquire the art from studying this book. . . . The mystery is a mystery no longer to those who take the trouble to study the careful diagrams which Miss Jack provides to the various steps in the proper folding of a complicated garment." Glasgow Daily Mail. "A work we can recommend with entire confidence not only to teachers, but to all housewives. The book exhausts the subject. There is evidence, it might be said, in every page, not only of practical experience, but of keenest observation on the part of the authoress." Dundee Advertiser. "Will prove invaluable to all who wish to be clever laundry workers, and don't know how to become so. ... Most comprehensive. . . . Should have a place in every home. " PREFACE. TO do a thing well is to do it easily, and to do it easily it must be done methodically. The aim of this book is to teach its readers, in plain and practical language, such a method of doing Laundry Work as shall at the same time lighten their labours and yield more satisfactory results than when the work is done in the only too common haphazard style. The book is arranged in the form of lessons given by a teacher to a pupil, and is designed to meet the want of a text-book for Laundry Classes, as well as to be a manual for home guidance. There is perhaps no department of household work to which the proverb Practice makes Per- fect can be so well applied as to Laundry Work. However many rules are laid down, and how- ever closely they are followed, the learner is almost sure to meet with disappointment at first, until a certain amount of experience has been gained. It is the author's hope that the instructions given in the following pages, written with every endeavour to combine fulness of detail with brevity and clearness of statement, will do much to smooth the way towards a mastery of THE ART OF LAUNDRY WORK. F. B. J. EDINBURGH, September 1895. 20736CO CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Preliminary Remarks, and Preparation for Washing. PAGE A Regular Time for Washing Sorting Steeping Dis- infecting Removal of Stains Laying of Boiler Fire Care of Boiler Sundry Preliminaries - - I CHAPTER II. Washing, Boiling, Rinsing, and Blueing. Water and Soap Uses of Soda and Borax Washing- Powders and Ammonia Different Methods of Washing, and Object to be aimed at Paraffin Washing Boiling, What Things to Boil, and Method Bleaching Rinsing, Importance of, and Method Blueing, Choice of Blues, and How to prepare Blue Water Method of Blueing, and How to prevent Streaks 6 CHAPTER III. Wringing, Drying, and Mangling. Wringing, by Hand or Machine Care of Wringing- machine Drying, Open-air and Indoor Clothes Ropes, Pins, and Poles Method of Hanging up Damping and Folding Mangling, What Things to Mangle, and Method Care of Mangle Clothes ready for Ironing 15 vi Contents. CHAPTER IV. Ironing. Different Kinds of Irons Heating of Irons and Ironing- PAGE Stoves Seasoning of Irons Preservation and Cleaning of Irons Iron-stand and Holder The Ironing-Table, How and with What to Cover it Shirt, Skirt, and Sleeve Boards, How to cover them Polishing Boards General Directions for Ironing 21 CHAPTER V. Body-Linen. General Directions for Ironing Body-Linen Starching of Frills and Embroidery Crimping and Goffering Folding and Airing How to Iron and Fold a Pocket Handkerchief A Chemise A Slip-Bodice A Pair of Drawers A Pair of Combinations A Night-Dress 31 CHAPTER VI. Bed, Table, and other Household Linen. Bed-Linen Sheets, Pillow and Bolster Cases Em- broidered Pillow Cases or Pillow Shams Bed-covers Bed-room Towels Bath Towels and Turkish Towels Table Linen, Starching of Table-cloths Table Napkins D'Oyleys, Fringed and Netted To Fold a Square D'Oyley Tray Cloths and Side- board Cloths Toilet Covers Kitchen Towels, Dusters, &c. 49 CHAPTER VII. Flannels and other Woollen Articles. Washing of Flannels Rinsing and Wringing Drying Mangling or Ironing Reasons for Flannel Shrink- ing New Flannels and Sanitary Underclothing Stockings and Socks Blankets Shetland and other Shawls The Sulphur Bath A Chamois Leather Eiderdown Quilts Swansdown Flannelette Delaine 57 Contents. vii CHAPTER VIII. Muslins, Lace, Curtains, and Net. PAGE Washing of Muslin Clear-starching and Ironing Em- broidered Muslin Washing of Lace Starching and Ironing Crochet and Tatting Punching of Lace How to Iron a Muslin and Lace Handkerchief Black Lace Curtains Plain and Spotted Net Gentleman's Evening Tie Chiffon 65 CHAPTER IX. Silks, Prints, Sateens, and Fancy Articles. Washing of White Silk To Gloss Silk Wringing and Ironing A Gentleman's Silk Tie Coloured Silks Washing of Prints Bran Water Starching and Ironing How to Starch and Iron a Cotton Petticoat A Dress Bodice Crepon Chintz Holland - 75 CHAPTER X. Infants' and Children's Clothes. Preliminary A Baby's Robe and Robe Skirts Sun Bonnets and Sun Hats A Piquee Pelisse Shirts Stays Day Gowns and Night Gowns Pinafores Knickerbockers Flannel Binders, Pilches, and Barracoats Knitted Socks and Bootees Knitted Jackets and Drawers Wincey and Serge Dresses Smocks A Boy's Sailor Suit Silk Dresses, Pina- fores, and Veils How to Wash a Sponge, a Brush, a Mackintosh -.----.-84 CHAPTER XI. Collars, Cuffs, Shirts, and Polishing-. Collars and Cuffs, Importance of having them well Washed and Dried How to Starch them Method of Ironing How to Starch and Iron a Gentleman's White Shirt A Lady's Shirt A White Waistcoat- Polishing 99 viii Contents. CHAPTER XII. Making of Starch and Various Recipes. PAGE Different Kinds of Starch How to make Clear or Hot- Water Starch Cold -water Starch Coloured Starches Soap-jelly Bran Water Prepared Tea for Black Lace To Remove Stains, Mildew, Rust or Iron- mould, Ink, Wine and Fruit, Tea and Coffee, Sugar or Syrup, Paint, Grease Use of Chloride of Lime and Sanitas Care of Chemicals - - - - 113 THE ART OF LAUNDRY WORK. CHAPTER I. PRELIMINARY REMARKS, AND PREPARATION FOR WASHING. A Regular Time for Washing. IN arranging your washing-day, of course take into consideration the circumstances of the household, but have it as early in the week as possible, and at a fixed hour. As a general rule Tuesday is the most suitable day, as this lets you have all necessary preparations made on Monday. Never let soiled clothes remain unwashed longer than a fortnight, and you must judge from the amount of work to be done if a weekly washing is advisable. Begin operations early in the day, as clothes dried in the morning air are always whitest and freshest. Sorting. Without order and method you will waste much time. After having collected all the clothes to be washed, arrange them in different divisions, according to the kind of article and the tubs available for steeping. The usual divisions are : 2 The Art of Laundry Work. 1. Table-linen. 2. Bed and other household linen. 3. Body-linen. 4. Laces, muslins, and finer articles. 5. Flannels and other woollen or knitted goods. 6. Pocket handkerchiefs. 7. Coloured prints, muslins, and sateens. 8. Kitchen towels and very dirty articles. When there is a scarcity of tubs, you may use one for bed and body linen. Always keep pocket handkerchiefs apart from other articles. As table-linen might be discoloured by contact with greasy clothes, keep it separate until after washing. Steeping. Steep everything except flannels, woollen goods, and coloured articles. Place each assortment in a tub, using large basins if more convenient for the smaller things, and cover all with cold or tepid water. Never use hot water for soaking purposes, as it tends to make dirt adhere to linen, while cold or tepid water loosens it, and so simplifies the process of washing. Let the clothes soak for one night at least. If Monday is your washing-day, they will soak from Saturday without harm. Before covering the coarser and dirtier clothes with water, you may add to it washing soda in the pro- portion of one ounce of soda to one gallon of water ; but this you must previously dissolve in a jug of boil- ing water. Were you not to take the precaution of dissolving the soda, any of it that touched the clothes undissolved would leave yellow marks like iron-mould, and these would eventually wear into holes. Soda Preliminary Remarks. 3 has a softening effect upon the water, and it also dis- solves any grease that may be on the clothes, and makes it easy to be washed out. For finer articles, use borax instead of soda, in the proportion of one table- spoonful to one gallon of water. It is perfectly harmless, even colours not being affected by its use. You will find it has a marvellous power of softening water and of drawing out dirt. Disinfecting. This is not always necessary, but where there has been infectious illness, or even bad colds, you will do wisely to put the infected clothing through some process which will destroy the disease germs. There are various methods of disinfecting, such as the use of soaking fluids, exposure to hot air, exposure to steam, and others, but you will find none simpler nor safer than the use of sanitas. This is obtained from a kind of eucalyptus tree, and, besides being non-poisonous, is colourless, and has no unpleasant smell. You will find it a powerful disinfectant, and one that mixes easily with either hot or cold water. Use it in the pro- portion of one tablespoonml of liquid sanitas to one gallon of water, soaking the infected clothing. For articles that will not stand soaking, add the sanitas in the same proportion to the water in which they are to be washed. Carbolic acid is also a powerful disin- fectant, but you will find it most destructive unless used very carefully. The proportions are two table- spoonfuls to one gallon of water. Removal of Stains. This is generally looked upon as very troublesome, but you will find that the results fully repay the time 4 The Art of Laundry Work. and labour involved, indeed you will find it absolutely necessary for the production of good work. The sooner stains are removed the better, and you will find that most can be easily eradicated when fresh, while they harden if they are allowed to remain. As soap combined with boiling water makes most stains per- manent, you must accomplish the stain-removing process before proceeding to the actual washing. Different chemicals are employed for this, and, after using them, you must take the greatest care to thoroughly rinse the articles from which you have removed the stains, as nearly all these chemicals have the power of rotting the fabric. For Recipes, see Chapter XII. Laying of Boiler Fire Care of Boiler. The boiler fire ought to be laid the night before washing-day, so that you may only have to light it next morning. Before beginning to lay the fire, take great care that all the old cinders and ashes are raked out, and the flue cleaned as far back as possible, because if it should smoke or burn badly the following day, you will find it an endless source of worry. You may use very small coal for laying it, or even cinders kept from other fires. See that the boiler itself is perfectly clean, and free from rust and dust. In order to prevent rust, or any coating of grease, thoroughly wash and well dry it after using. Fill your boiler with water before lighting the fire. A large goblet is frequently used for boiling clothes in when there is no fixed-in boiler. This is just put on to an ordinary fire and brought to the boil. The pan Preliminary Remarks. 5 used for this purpose must on no account be used for anything else; it must be kept scrupulously clean, and well dried after using. A goblet with a tin or enamelled lining is best for the purpose. Sundry Preliminaries. Before beginning operations, have at hand soap, starch, and whatever else may be required for washing purposes. Also have made soap jelly and cold-water starch. (See Recipes.) The Art of Laundry Work. CHAPTER II. WASHING, BOILING, RINSING, AND BLUEING. Water and Soap. FOR washing purposes you will find it necessary to have abundance of pure and soft water. You will find cleaning almost an impossibility when the water is of an earthy colour and contains a quantity of mineral matter. Use rain water when you can obtain it free from impurities, in preference to river or spring water, which is generally hardened by a certain amount of lime acquired in running through the ground. There are many chemical tests by which you can tell soft from hard water, but for laundry purposes it is sufficient to know that the harder the water the greater is the quantity of soap needed to produce a lather. When you must unavoidably use hard water for washing, add some softening substance, such as soda or borax. (See next paragraph.) Soap is a combination of fat or oil with soda or potash. As they combine chemically, the injurious properties of the soda are, in good soaps, destroyed. Select your soap carefully from a reliable tradesman, as it is frequently adulterated. Good yellow soap is best. Cheap soaps you will find no economy, as they contain a large percentage of water, and waste quickly, many of them also containing soda to an extent hurtful to Washing, Boiling, &c. 7 the clothes. Buy your soap in bars, cut it in pieces, and let it slowly dry before using. To use new soap is wasteful. Never allow soap to lie in the water, and save all ends which are too small for washing purposes to make soap jelly (see recipe), or else shred down and put into the copper when boiling the clothes. Uses of Soda and Borax. Soda is a substance either found in its native state, or manufactured from common salt. Keep it covered in a dry place, as it loses strength by contact with air or damp. Soda has a softening effect upon water, and absorbs and removes grease ; but if you use it in too large quantities you will find it destructive to clothes, giving them a grey appearance. You will also find your hands rough and sore. Before using soda for laundry purposes, completely dissolve it in boiling water, for were it to touch the linen undissolved, yellow marks would be left, in reality burns, and these would eventually wear into holes. Never use soda for coloured clothes nor for flannels, and for finer articles it is safer to use borax as a water softener. When washing and boiling the coarser clothes, you will find one ounce of soda sufficient to soften one gallon of water. Borax is a salt prepared from saline deposits found in many parts of the world, and from hot vapours arising from the earth's surface in volcanic regions. It softens water, but not so powerfully as soda, and as it is perfectly harmless, you may use it even for woollen and dyed articles. Boron, a substance found in borax, acts as a disinfectant. Allow one tablespoonful of prepared borax to one gallon of water. 8 The Art of Laundry Work. Washing- Powders and Ammonia. As a rule avoid washing-powders for laundry pur- poses. As they all contain soda, and it is difficult to tell in what proportion, you will find it safer and cheaper to use soda itself. Ammonia is now much used for cleaning purposes, and is specially valuable in the washing of flannels and woollen articles (see p. 57). Different Methods of Washing, and Object to be aimed at. The linen having been soaked, and all stains removed as far as possible, it is now ready for washing. Washing may be done either by hand or by machine. Whichever method you adopt, the principles are the same, and it is well for you to know how to wash by hand. Begin with the cleanest articles, generally table-linen, wringing them out of the steeping water, and placing them in a tub of water as hot as the hand can bear, having, if necessary, soft- ened the water. When washing by hand, be careful to rub to- gether two parts of the material, and not to rub the skin off your \j| \u hands. Go methodically over every part, paying particular attention to those most soiled, and rubbing them well with soap. A washing-board is of great assistance, preferably a wooden one, and a brush will be found Washing, Soiling, <5rv. 9 valuable, especially for collars, cuffs, bands, and all firmer articles. The object to be aimed at in washing is to get rid of the dirt /-T- with as little wear and tear as |sj_ '-^sj^ possible. If the clothes are not %fflBHEffl$ clean after the first washing, take fresh hot water and repeat the process. Various machines are now used for washing, some of them quite simple enough for home use. You will find directions for use given with each machine. The B io The Art of Laundry Work. diagram is one of Bradford's washing machines, with a wringer attached. It is moderate in price, very efficient, and easily worked. For the washing of flannels and coloured articles see Chaps. VII. and IX. Washing with Paraffin. The method of washing with paraffin was introduced into this country a few years ago, and for some time it seemed to be adopted by a good many housekeepers. Miss Gordon Gumming is said to have been the first to have brought it into notice. By this plan all the general rules for washing are reversed. The method is the following : Half fill a copper with cold water, and shred into it -lb. soap to six gallons of water. When boiling add to the above quantities two table- spoonfuls of the best paraffin, and put the clothes into this without any previous soaking. Do not pack them too tightly. There must be plenty of room for the water to get freely about them, and boil them not longer than half an hour. Then rinse well first in hot water, then in cold, and lastly blue them. Precautions. 1. Measure the oil into a cup or small vessel at a good distance from the fire, and never pour it direct from the bottle into the boiler. It is most explosive, and accidents have frequently happened through care- lessness. 2. Do not fill the copper too full, as paraffin has a tendency to make the water boil over. 3. Change the water whenever it gets dirty. If the clothes are very dirty, it is better to take fresh water for each assortment. Washing, Boiling, 6-v. n 4. Wipe the copper well out each time it is emptied, as the paraffin causes a greasy scum to adhere to the sides of it. 5. Be most particular about the rinsing, or the clothes will not only have a smell of the paraffin, but will look yellow spotted when ironed. 6. Use good oil. The better the oil the less chance there is of a smell remaining. Flannels are treated in the same way as white cotton things. Taking everything into consideration, this plan of washing is not one to be generally recommended. If it is undertaken by any one who is in the least inclined to be careless, and unless there is an abundant supply of hot water for rinsing purposes, it is bound to be a failure. The old-fashioned mode of washing is a much cleaner and fresher one altogether. The use of paraffin soaps somewhat superseded that of the pure article itself; but of late neither of them have been in such great favour; and good brown soap, and rubbing either by hand or machine, seem to hold their own against any patent measures. Boiling. Boil everything except flannels, woollens, and coloured things. Having wrung the clothes out of the water in which they have been washed, put them into the boiler with enough cold water and soap to cover them, keeping them twisted to prevent their floating while they boil. You may either rub the soap well on the clothes, or add in the form of soap-jelly (see recipe) or shreds, allowing i Ib. of soap to 4 gallons of water. You may further add soda, borax, 1 2 The Art of Laundry Work. or a little ammonia, if the water is hard, and the clothes of a bad colour. Tie together or put in bags smaller articles, such as collars, cuffs, and handker- chiefs. As the clothes must have sufficient room to toss about, do not put too many things into the boiler at one time. Bring the water slowly to the boil, and boil from fifteen to twenty minutes, pressing the things down occasionally with a stick (see illustration) to keep them under water. Do not allow the clothes to boil too long, or they will become a yellow colour, and they must on no account be boiled before washing. When the clothes have boiled sufficiently, lift them out into a tub, and, if time permits, cover them with the water in which they have been boiled, letting them cool in it. This whitens the clothes, and is almost as good as bleaching, but it cannot of course be done where washing and drying have to be accomplished on one day. Bleaching. When the clothes become a very bad colour, bleach- ing will very much improve them. Take the clothes from the boiler, let them cool slightly, and, with the soap still in them, spread them on a green for some hours, sprinkling them with water from a watering- can, if they become dry. If the clothes are spread out boiling hot, they will scorch and discolour the grass. Rinsing. This is one of the most important operations in laundry work. The reason of clothes having a streaked Washing, Boiling, &c. 13 appearance and bad colour is very often that the soap has not been rinsed out of them. Ironing reveals the faulty work, making unrinsed clothes look absolutely dirty, and giving them an unpleasant smell. Use plenty of water for rinsing, first tepid, then cold. To use cold water to begin with would be to harden the soap into the tissues of the material, so that to remove it would be almost impossible. First remove the soap with tepid water, and then use a plentiful supply of cold until every trace of it is removed. Too much stress cannot be laid upon this point. Blueing 1 , Choice of Blues, and How to Prepare Blue Water. Blueing improves the appearance of clothes by bringing back some of the clear colour which they lose through wear and age. There are a number of different blues to be had, both in solid and liquid form, indigo, ultramarine, Prussian, and aniline. Use solid blues as a rule, as you will find them handier, and will be able to judge the quantity necessary more easily. Having chosen your brand, keep to it, and then the question of quantity is no difficulty. Blue which dissolves most readily, and leaves least sedi- ment after the water has stood some time, is the best. Stone or solid blues should be firm and not gritty, and ought to be kept in a dark and dry place, as they readily absorb moisture. It is impossible to lay down absolute rules as to quantity, as it depends both upon the kind of blue used, and the texture of the articles undergoing operation. As a rule, body linen requires more blue than other articles, and table linen less. Your aim must be to get the clothes of a clear uniform 14 The Art of Laundry Work. tint, and not too blue. In preparing blue water, see that the tub in which the water is placed is perfectly clean, and free from dust and soap-suds, and add sufficient blue to make it a sky-blue tint. If you use stone-blue, tie it in flannel, and squeeze in the water until you procure the desired shade. Stir the water well before immersing the clothes, and if there be uncertainty as to the colour, test it by some small article first. Do not prepare blue water long before it will be wanted, and let it all be used in one day. Method of Blueing, and How to Prevent Streaks. Wring the clothes out of the last rinsing water, open them out, and put a few at a time into the blue water, those requiring most blue first. Work them so as to let the water well through, then wring out as dry as possible. The solution will get weaker as it is used, so that more blue must be added when required, and this always when there are no clothes in the water. The streaked appearance after blueing may be thus accounted for : 1. The blue water has not been stirred before use, and a slight sediment which has fallen to the foot of the tub adheres to the clothes. 2. The clothes have been put into the tub twisted, and so the water has not permeated them thoroughly. 3. Too many articles have been placed in the tub at one time, and consequently have not had room to float. 4. Extra blue has been added while things were in the tub. 5. The clothes have been allowed to lie in the blue water, or have been insufficiently wrung. Wringing, Drying, 6r. 15 CHAPTER III. WRINGING, DRYING, AND MANGLING. Wringing by Hand or Machine. WRINGING is getting rid of the superfluous water in the clothes. This you may do either by hand or machine, but certain precautions are necessary, or the process will be destructive. In wringing by hand, twist the articles selvedge-wise, and be careful not to wrench them unduly, but to wring with a sustained pressure. The use of a machine causes less wear and tear, and also saves time. Shake out the clothes and fold them evenly before putting them through the wringer, then work the machine slowly and carefully. If worked hurriedly the moisture will not be properly extracted. Pass the clothes through the machine once or twice, that they may be wrung as dry as possible. Do not screw the wringer too tight ; it both spoils the machine and is too great a strain on the linen. Hide away buttons in the folds of the fabric in order to protect them as well as the rollers ; tapes should also be concealed, to prevent their being wrenched off. Care of Wringing Machines. Wringing machines are either attached to washing machines or are movable, and can be fixed to a stand, tub, or table. Take the greatest care to keep every part of the wringer, especially the india-rubber rollers, 1 6 The Art of Laundry Work. scrupulously clean, and free from dust, soapsuds, and oil. After washing, if it is not to be used immediately, dry the india-rubber with a soft cloth. When the india-rubber gets greasy and dirty it may be cleaned by rubbing it with a damp rag dipped in a little turpentine. When not in use, unloosen the screw in order to take the pressure off the rollers. Oil the working parts of the wringer occasionally, being care- ful to remove all traces of grease after doing so. Before applying fresh oil, wash the old oil out with hot water, soap, and a brush. Never pass anything boiling hot through the wringer, least of all starched things, as they spoil the rollers by roughening the surface of the india-rubber. . If properly attended to the india- rubber will last for long, and when it does wear out the coating can be replaced and the wringer made as good as new. Drying Open-air and Indoor. Clothes are always fresher and whiter if they can be dried in the open air, morning air being best of all. But you cannot easily accomplish this in town, owing to the presence of smoke and other obstacles, and the absence of space. When drying clothes indoors, they may be simply hung on a screen (see illustration) or horse before a fire, or on lines stretched across a heated room, or they may be placed in closets heated with steam for the purpose, which are now frequently fitted up in private houses. Be careful when drying before an open fire not to place the clothes too near it, as the linen will not only become discoloured and disfigured with blacks, but may become so dry as to burst into a flame. Wringing, Drying, &c. 17 Clothes Ropes, Pins, and Poles. These are used when drying is done outside, and it is most important that they should be kept perfectly clean. Clothes are frequently seen with the mark of a dirty rope or pin upon them, and this happens through carelessness. Never leave the ropes outside when not in use. They not only get dirty, but will rot if exposed to the atmosphere. Dry, and rub them over with a cloth, roll them up, and put into a bag or basket where they will be under cover. The same care must be taken with the pins which fasten the clothes to the line. New clothes pins should be soaked first in hot and then in cold water before using them, as they often mark the clothes. Do not let them lie about on the ground, but see that they are quite clean, and put them away with the ropes. 1 8 The Art of Laundry Work. Clothes poles which are used for propping up the ropes must be brought indoors when not in use, and kept in a clean place. How to Hang things up. Hang things up carefully, with the wrong side out, if there is one, and with a good piece over the line, to prevent straining, and so that they may not slip off and get soiled on the ground. Do not hang heavy things, such as sheets, bedcovers, and table-cloths, by the corners, as they are apt to tear. Hang them so that the air gets well through them, as it is that which sweetens and freshens them. Small things, such as collars and cuffs, may be strung together on a piece of tape. Raise the rope well above the ground with a pole, and let them remain until sufficiently dry. Damping and Folding. Anything that has to be mangled or ironed must be damped and folded evenly first. It is a saving of time and trouble if these things can be taken down from drying while still slightly wet, for if allowed to become quite dry they must be sprinkled with water either by hand or with a small watering-can. Every part of the article must be evenly sprinkled, and at the same time not made too wet. When sprinkling by hand, hold the basin of water in the left hand, take up as much in the right as it will hold, and sprinkle it lightly over the material, letting the drops be as small as possible, and going over every part. Smooth out the things well, fold evenly, seeing that the selvedges in such things as towels, counterpanes, sheets, &c., meet exactly. If you do not attend to this they will Wringing, Drying, e-v. 19 look twisted in every direction after mangling. In body linen protect all tapes and buttons by putting them under a fold of the material. Mangling What Things to Mangle, and Method. Mangling is a process of smoothing clothes by passing them between heavy rollers, which are some- times heated. All household linen, such as towels, sheets, pillow-cases, table-cloths, table-napkins, &c. and most body linen may be mangled. Mangling requires great care and attention in order not to stretch the articles nor strain them unduly. Take the damp and folded things and place them in the mangle per- fectly straight. Do not put too many things in at one time, and keep smoothing them out as they are put in to prevent pleats and creases. Work the mangle steadily, not too quickly, and not by fits and starts. Turn it round several times after the things are in, and keep the tension screwed tight enough to press well without straining the mangle too much. Have a piece of linen of a good length fastened to one of the rollers of the mangle, to pass the things through inside, to prevent them getting soiled in any way. Care of the Mangle. Mangles, like wringers, must be kept scrupulously clean. Occasionally rub the rollers over with a soft damp cloth or sponge, and then dry. Keep the working parts properly oiled, and let there be no un- due straining when using the mangle. When not in use keep the tension screw quite loose, and the mangle well covered. The linen cloth attached to the mangle should be taken off and washed when necessary. 20 The Art of Laundry Work. Clothes Ready for Ironing. After damping, folding, and mangling, allow the clothes to lie for some time either rolled up in a towel or put in a basket and covered over. Let them even lie over night if the washing and drying has been done in one day, and they will be just in a right condition for ironing the following. Ironing. 2 1 CHAPTER IV. IRONING. Different Kinds of Irons. Flat or Sad Irons are those most generally used, and for all practical purposes they produce as good work as any other. They should be of different sizes, and have comfortable handles. Two, or better three, irons will be required for each ironer. FLAT IRON. Box IRON. Box Irons, as their name implies, are like a box, and have a heated bolt inside. They are much liked by some, as they are clean, and keep their heat longer. Use them with great care, not making the bolt too hot, or it will wear out the iron, and fasten it in securely. Two bolts or heaters are required for each iron. Where only one is ironing they are valuable, but for a number they are out of the question. They are more expensive than flat irons and more wasteful to the fire. Charcoal Irons. These are heated with hot charcoal, which is put inside the iron. They will keep their 22 The Art of Laundry Work. heat for a long time, but if used much the fumes from the charcoal are unhealthy. Gas Irons are heated by gas, by means of an india-rubber tube attached to a gas-jet. They are very convenient, as the heat can be so easily regulated, but they require great care or they will CHARCOAL IRON. easily get out of order. GAS IRON. Polishing Irons are irons with a polished steel oval surface, used for polishing linen collars and cuffs, &c., and they can be had in different shapes and sizes. POLISHING IRON. GOFFERING IRON. Goffering Irons are used for goffering frills. They should be had in different sizes, must be kept in a dry place, and heated in a gas-jet or in a socket made for the purpose in laundry stoves. Electric Irons. Irons heated by electricity are the most recent invention, but they have not as yet come into general use. Ironing. 23 Heating of Irons and Ironing-stoves. Irons are best heated on an ironing-stove, or on the top of a close range. Ironing-stoves can be had in different sizes. They take up very little room, and are more economical than keeping up a large kitchen range for the sole purpose of heating irons. If a cook- ing range is used for heating irons, the fire must be well made up, the hearth swept, and the top of the range wiped quite free from grease before the irons are put down. It is never a good plan to heat irons in front of an open fire, as their surfaces are liable to get roughened and smoky. If it has to be done, have the fire bright and free from smoke before the irons are put down, and when fresh coal has to be added let it be at the back of the fire, drawing forward the red cinders. A smoked iron is fatal to good ironing. Never put irons into a fire to heat, or the surface of 24 The Art of Laundry Work. the iron becomes roughened, and it is quite ruined for doing any fine work afterwards. Small gas stoves, specially made for heating irons, can now be bought. These have iron plates over the burners, which keep the irons free from the moisture and impurities which arise when the irons are placed in direct contact with the gas. These stoves do admirably for two or three irons, but it is an expensive way of heating a number. Preservation and Cleaning of Irons. An iron must be well cleaned each time before using. Have a wooden box, and put at the foot of it some sand-paper, or ordinary thick brown paper with fine sand or bathbrick-dust sprinkled on it. Rub the iron well on this first, and the slight roughness of the sand, &c., will clean it. Then have a piece of coarse cloth or sacking with a little grease on it. A piece of beeswax or candle-end shred down and put between the folds of the cloth will do. Rub the iron next on this to make it run smoothly, then finish off by dust- ing it with a duster to make it quite free from sand or brick-dust. Occasionally it is well to wash the irons thoroughly with hot water, soda, soap, and a brush, and then thoroughly dry. On no account must irons be blackleaded. Never allow them to cool flat on a stove when the fire is going out, as damp collects and rusts them, but either stand them up on end at the side of the stove or on the hearth-stone. Irons must be kept in a perfectly dry place. If you once allow them to get rusty, the rust eats into them, and their surface is never so smooth again. If they are to be laid away for some time, see that they are thoroughly Ironing. 25 dry, then grease them well and wrap them in brown paper. This will protect them from any damp. Seasoning of Irons. It is almost impossible to iron with perfectly new irons ; they must be seasoned first. To do this heat them on a stove for several hours, then clean in the ordinary way, and let them cool. Repeat this process for several days, and the irons will be ready for use. Iron-Stand and Holder. Each ironer must be provided with an iron-stand on which to rest the iron, and an iron-holder. Iron- stands are of different kinds, the simplest being those made of strong wire supported on four legs. Others are made of a plain ring of iron, and some of more elaborate design ; but in any case they should stand high enough above the table to prevent the heat of the iron from scorching the ironing-sheet. Iron-holders should be made like kettle-holders, only more substantial. They should have several thick folds of flannel or two of felt inside, sewn together, and covered over with a clean cotton cover. A piece of kid put between the folds will help to keep the heat from the hands. The top cover must be strong. A piece of strong linen or ticking is suitable, but it must not be anything from which a dye will come off. For collars, cuffs, and shirts c 26 The Art of Laundry Work. it is better to have the holder covered with white cotton. The holders must be made long enough to cover the length of the handle, and broad enough to come well round. When resting the iron, always take the holder off it. This not only keeps it cooler for the hand, but very often prevents it getting burnt when the iron is too hot to use. Iron-holders should be kept in a box or drawer where they will not get dusty. The Ironing-Table, How and with What to Cover it. The table used for ironing should be of a good size, strong and steady, and its surface level. Its height must be comfortable for its purpose, not so low that one has to stoop over the work, nor so high that one cannot bring sufficient pressure to bear upon it. Cover it first with felt, or a double fold of thick blanket of rather a hard make. The kind known as charity blankets, of a grey colour, do very well for the purpose, and are stronger and not so soft as the ordinary blanket. The blanket must be large enough to come at least a few inches over the table all round, and must be put on perfectly smoothly without any wrinkles. Over the blanket stretch a clean sheet, smoothing it out well. This must come well over the edges all round, and then either be pinned at the four corners or be tied by tapes to the four legs of the table. Nothing is worse than to have the sheet lurking up underneath the work. Avoid having seams and patches on an ironing sheet, or have them where they will not come in the way when ironing. Ironing over a seam or a patch will leave a mark on your work. Never test the heat of an iron on the ironing sheet. Ironing. 27 If the sheet gets scorched it is almost sure to wear into holes when washed. Never lay ironing blankets and sheets away damp, or they will probably mildew ; and never let them remain on the table longer than is necessary, as they get dusty. Shake them well, and fold evenly before laying away. Shirt, Skirt, and Sleeve Boards, and How to Cover them. These are all required in fitting out a laundry. The shirt board is used when ironing the fronts of shirts. SHIRT BOARD. SLEEVE BOARD. One side at least must be covered with a double fold of white flannel, blanket, or felt, stretched tightly over it, and either sewn or tacked on. Above this place a cotton or linen cover, which can be made like a slip, to be easily removed when dirty and replaced by a clean one. 28 The Art of Laundry Work. Sleeve boards, used when ironing the sleeves of dresses, &c., must be covered in the same way. Keep both shirt and sleeve boards covered up when not in use, to prevent their becoming soiled. Skirt boards are used when ironing petticoats, dress skirts, children's frocks, &c. These being larger will do quite well if covered with grey blanket like the tables, only it should be tacked on, and then covered SKIRT BOARD. with a small sheet pinned firmly underneath. It is better to have a sheet that can be taken off after use, as it will keep cleaner. Polishing Boards are like shirt boards, only they are left uncovered. They are used for polishing. See page in. General Directions for Ironing. Have everything at hand that you will require before commencing to iron. Have on the table a basin of Ironing. 29 clean cold water, set on a plate to prevent its upsetting, and one or two pieces of clean rag or old handker- chief to use for rubbing and damping down the clothes. Put the iron-stand and iron at your right hand side, and keep the things that require ironing at your left. Be careful not to iron muslin and cotton materials when too dry, or they will have a rough appearance, and no gloss. Iron all bands, hems, and double parts on the wrong side as well as on the right. Iron embroidery on the wrong side, over flannel or felt, so as to raise the pattern. Prints and coloured articles must not be ironed with too hot an iron, for if too hot the colours will be spoilt. When ironing lift the iron as little as possible, and do not thump it down. Ironing should not be a noisy proceeding. Iron quietly, and at the same time press well. Prepare and smooth out the work with the left hand, whilst ironing with the right. When there is a large plain surface to iron, such as a table-cloth, skirt of a night-dress, &c., use as heavy and as hot an iron as possible. Use the smaller iron for smaller articles, for ironing into gathers, more intricate pieces, &c. When any wrinkle is made in ironing, damp it over with a wet rag and iron again. Handle the things so as not to crush the parts that have been ironed. There is quite an art in the way clothes are lifted and moved about. Ironing must be done in a good light. Daylight is best, and you must stand in such a position that the light will strike upon the work. If you iron in a bad light you are almost sure to scorch the material. Ironing requires a great deal of practice, and it can- not be well done unless done with speed. The irons 30 The Art of Laundry Work. cool so quickly, that unless they can be quickly handled very little can be done with one, and constant changing not only makes it a very tiring process, but things get so dry before they are finished that they never look well. Body-Linen. 3 r CHAPTER V. BODY-LlNEN. General Directions for Ironing Body-Linen. ALL underclothing must be damp for ironing, and at the same time not too wet, or the irons will cool too quickly. First iron all embroidery or frills. Embroidery must be ironed on the wrong side over a piece of felt or double flannel, in addition to the ironing blanket, well pressed so as to raise the pattern, and the points pulled out and ironed until quite dry. Plain frills or frills with just a narrow lace edging must be ironed on the right side so as to give them a gloss; care must be taken to iron well up into the gathers and without making wrinkles. All bands, hems, and double parts should be ironed on both sides to give them a more finished appearance. Always keep the neck or the top of a garment at your left hand side, so that the iron may be more easily run well up into the gathers. If the cotton should get dry before it is all ironed, damp it down with a wet rubber. It will never look glossy if ironed too dry, but will have a rough appearance. Iron out all tapes. Never leave them twisted and curled up. Iron round buttons, not over them, or you will be apt to mark them. Sometimes seams and tucks are inclined to drag the 32 The Art of Laundry Work. articles and cause creases, especially when the clothes are new. They should then be well stretched out before applying the iron. New cotton is always more difficult to iron and make glossy than that which has been washed several times. Starching of Frills and Embroidery. The embroidery or frills on underclothing is often very much improved by being dipped in some very thin hot-water starch. This should be done when the things are being damped and rolled up. The starch must not be thick (see hot-water starch), and it must be well wrung out of the frills. The slight stiffness prevents the trimming curling up and looking as limp as it would otherwise do. Crimping. As a rule this is done on plain frills, or on plain frills with a narrow lace edging ; but embroidery can also be crimped, especially when it is put on only slightly full and not starched, in which case it would be unsuitable for goffering. Crimping can be done Body-Linen. 33 with an ordinary iron, using the back, side, or point according to the width of the frill. For a very narrow frill use the point ; for a wider one the back or side, as you find easiest. When the frill is very wide, it is sometimes easier to crimp half of it at one time, crimping first down near the drawings with the side of the iron, keeping the point close to the gathers, and then the upper part with the back of the iron. The iron must be cool enough for you to hold your fingers on it. To crimp, keep the gathering of the frill at your left hand side, and the frill itself lying straight across the table. Commence with the part nearest to you, drawing the frill towards you as it is crimped. Hold the iron with the right hand, run up part of the frill with the part of the iron with which you are going to crimp, put two or three fingers of the left hand under the frill and close to the iron, draw the iron quickly back, following with the fingers of the left hand, and crimping the frill underneath it. Only a small piece, an inch or an inch and a half, can be crimped at one time. It requires a good deal of practice to do crimping quickly, and at the same time finely and evenly. The thicker the material, the firmer pull back you must give to the iron. Special machines can now be had for crimping. Goffering. This is done with heated goffering tongs. A frill requires to be pretty full, and to be starched, in order to goffer well. For wide and full frills, use the large size of tongs ; and for narrow ones, the smaller pair. 34 The Art of Laundry Work. Have two pairs of tongs of exactly the same size in use at one time, so that one pair can be heating whilst you are using the other. Always test them on a piece of rag or paper first, and see that they are thoroughly clean and not too hot before you apply them to the frill. Place the frill to be goffered lengthways on the table, with the drawings from you. Pin out straight as much of the frill as you can at one time, to keep it steady. Commence at the right hand end of the frill and work towards the left. Hold the tongs in the right hand, putting the thumb in the lower hole, and the second or third finger in the upper ; put the tongs right up to the drawings of the frill, and then turn them half round, so that the hole with the thumb in it comes uppermost ; keep two or three fingers of the left hand close to the tongs to keep the goffer- ing in position, and let them remain there until you Body-Linen. 35 loosen the tongs slightly and draw them gently out. Then go a little distance further back and do the same again, working from right to left, and being careful not to pull out what has been already done. In drawing out the tongs be careful to keep them as flat to the table as possible, and do not give them an upward jerk. The distance the goffers are apart depends on the fulness of the frill. The fuller the frill the closer the goffers can be. Sometimes when a frill is only slightly drawn, you can merely show the mark of the tongs on it. Always keep the goffering tongs on the straight of the frill, or with the thread of the material. Goffering should be regular, and an equal distance apart. This is sometimes rather difficult if the frill is not drawn evenly. If there are two frills to be goffered, do the upper first, then the under. With practice, goffering can be done quite quickly. The more quickly it is done, the hotter the tongs can be used. Folding and Airing. Folding depends very much upon individual taste, and upon the shape of the garment to be folded. Shapes vary so much that it is difficult to lay down any hard and fast rules, only it is as well to have some general rules for guidance. Always fold so as to crush the garment as little as possible, laying in pleats carefully where required. Iron down each fold or pleat as you make it, to keep it in position. Fold garments so as to show as much of the embroidery as possible, always having the inside 36 The Art of Laundry Work. as tidy and smooth as the outside, and making each a convenient size. Keep all tapes to the inside. All underclothing must be thoroughly aired before it is laid away. Although the things seem dry after ironing, there is always a certain amount of moisture which clings to them from the iron. After folding, open out so far, and hang up on a screen near the fire, or in a warm place, until perfectly dry through. The greatest care and attention should be paid to this, as want of thought may lead to the gravest results. How to Iron and Fold a Pocket Handkerchief. Pocket handkerchiefs should be left rather wetter than other clothes for ironing in fact, they are ready for ironing after having been put through the wringing machine. First stretch out the handkerchief well and pull it into a good shape, then spread on the table with the wrong side uppermost, as square and smooth as possible, and with the name (if there is one) at the top right hand corner. Iron first round the edges, then the centre, lifting it up slightly to prevent creasing. Do not iron too long on the wrong side, or the right will be too dry and rough. A pocket handkerchief should be ironed all over on both sides, but there is no occasion to turn it, as the right gets ironed during the process of folding. Fold first from the bottom upwards by dotted line (Fig. i), bring the edges evenly together at the top, and give them a pull if necessary ; fold again from the bottom upwards by dotted line (Fig. 2). Next fold over from left to right, by dotted line (Fig. 3), and again from left to right by dotted line (Fig. 4). Turn the handkerchief and iron the front of it the Body-Linen. 37 name will have come to the outside, as in Fig. 5. Each fold must be ironed as it is made. In this way the right side of the handkerchief gets ironed. If there is a monogram or raised initials on the hand- kerchief press them out well with the iron on the wrong side over flannel, and do not touch them on the right. Fine muslin and lace handkerchiefs will be treated under a separate heading (see p. 70). How to Iron and Fold a Chemise. Have the chemise on the right side to begin with. First iron any trimming, frills, or embroidery, and also bands on both sides. Next fold the chemise down the centre of the back, keeping the neck at your left hand side. Iron the back, first on one side, and then turn over and iron on the other ; iron the hem at the foot on the wrong side, and when ironing up near the gathers at the neck, lift up slightly, so that the iron may run well up into the gathers, being careful not to crease the under side. Then open the chemise out and lay it on the table, so that the whole of the back is uppermost ; iron the front hem on the wrong side, and round the arm-holes and sleeves on the back. 38 The Art of Laundry Work. The back is then finished. Turn the chemise over and iron the front first the bottom part straight across and the rest of it lengthways ; iron well up into the gathers and round the arm-holes and sleeves, and the chemise is finished. Any goffering or crimping must be done before folding, laying it out on the table, or double it so as not to crush. If there is only Body-Linen. 39 a little fulness at the corners of the embroidery, this can be goffered after folding. A chemise may be folded in two different ways the side fold or the front fold. For a plain chemise, the side fold is best ; and for a more elaborately trimmed one, the front fold. For the side fold, double the chemise, bringing the two side seams and two shoulders together, with the back inside and the front out ; lay it on the table with the neck at your left hand side, and the band down the opening of the front, turned uppermost (Fig. i). Take hold of the neck and the bottom of the chemise, and stretch it so that it falls in pleats. Arrange these pleats evenly, two or three according to the fulness at the band, and iron them well down (Fig. 2). Turn the chemise over, see that the pleats are even on the other side, fold the chemise again lengthways, making it the same width all the way down, and turning in an extra piece at the foot if it is too wide there ; pleat the sleeves back a little so that the embroidery only shows over the sides (Fig. 3), and then fold from the bottom upwards in three or four, according to the size you wish it to be when finished (Fig. 4). Air well before laying it away. For the front fold, first fold the chemise double so as to find the centre of the back, make a mark with the iron and open out again. Keep the back of the chemise uppermost on the table, and the neck at the left hand side. Fold in two or three pleats from the side in towards the centre of the back and press them well down (Fig. i). Then pleat the other side in towards the centre of the back in exactly the same way, making the chemise an equal width all the way 40 The Art of Laundry Work. down, and not too broad. Fold the sleeves so that the embroidery only shows over the sides (Fig. 2), and fold the chemise into three or four from the bottom upwards, press well, turn over and see that the front looks quite straight ; air well, and it is finished (Fig. 3)- How to Iron and Fold a Slip-bodice. First iron any trimming or embroidery and neck- band on the wrong side. Then place the slip-bodice on the table with the neck at the left hand side. Commence ironing on the piece nearest to you, laying it out as smoothly as possible. When that is ironed, go on to the next little piece, smooth it out and iron it, and so on until you have ironed right across the slip-bodice. Then iron the sleeves first on one side, and then on the other, and finish off by ironing round Body-Linen. the hems on the wrong side. Use rather a small iron for ironing a slip-bodice it gets better in between the seams than a large one. A slip-bodice can be folded in two ways by the side fold or the front fold. For the side fold, place the two sides and the two shoulders together (Fig. i), arrange as neatly as possible, putting in pleats in the part below the waist where they are required. Then double lengthways, bringing the button side upper- most, turn the sleeves back so that only a small piece shows over the side (Fig. 2), then double from the bottom upwards and turn over (Fig. 3). For the front fold, first button the slip-bodice, and 42 The Art of Laundry Work. if the front is wider than the back, put a pleat down each side of the front to make them of equal size (Fig. a). Then turn the slip-bodice over so that the back is uppermost, and pleat each side in towards the centre of the back, and fold the sleeves back a little way so that a small piece of them only shows over the sides (Fig. b) ; double from the bottom upwards, turn over, and see that the front looks even (Fig. c}. How to Iron and Fold a Pair of Drawers. Iron any embroidery or trimming first, and the bands on both sides. When ironing the waistband, keep the band next you, and lying lengthways on the table, and iron the strings if there are any. Place the pair of drawers on the table front uppermost, with the waistband at your left hand side. Commence with the leg nearest to you, smooth it out and iron straight across as far up and down as you can until the draw- ings interfere, then iron up into the drawings at the top, and if knickerbockers, iron down into the draw- ings at the foot, holding the iron with the left hand. Then iron the hem on the under part of the leg on the wrong side, and draw that leg over the table out of the way whilst the other leg is being ironed. Iron the second leg on the same side and in the same way. Next turn the pair of drawers over, still keeping the band at the left hand side, and iron the other side of the legs in the same manner as the first, not forgetting to iron the hems of the front part on the wrong side. Goffer or crimp the frills if necessary, and the drawers are ready for folding. To fold a pair of drawers, place the two legs evenly one on the top of the other, fold in the shaped piece Body-Linen. 43 so as to make them the same width all the way down, turn any strings inside to prevent their being pulled off, and fold the drawers from the top downwards in three or four. If there is any embroidery at the foot, a T separate the two pieces, doubling one leg back so far, so as to show both pieces of embroidery. Crimp or goffer the trimming if necessary. Knickerbockers require to be pleated to make them lie smoothly. Pleat one leg down, putting in two or three pleats according to the c fulness between the bands, and not pleating the bands themselves, then iron the pleats well down. Place the other leg on the top of that one, and pleat it in the same way, and keeping it exactly the same width, and having the same number of pleats (Fig. a). Finish off the same as a pair of drawers (Figs, b, c). 44 The Art of Laundry Work. How to Iron and Fold a Pair of Combinations. Iron all embroidery and bands first, then place them on the table with the neck at your left hand side, and iron the upper part down as far as the waist, exactly like a slip-bodice. Then fold the legs evenly by the side seams, and iron them in the same way as a pair of drawers, first on one side, and then on the other, and the sleeves on both sides. Iron the front hems on the wrong side, do any goffering or crimping that is required, and they are ready for folding. Combinations require very careful handling, you are so liable to crush one part whilst ironing another. Body-Linen. 45 To fold a pair of combinations, fold them double first, bringing the sides of the bodice, the sides of the legs, and the two shoulders together. The back is usually longer than the front, so see that it lies smoothly underneath. It generally requires a pleat put in it just at the waist. If the combinations are very wide and like knickerbockers, put pleats in them, two or three according to the fulness, and continue one or two of them up the front of the bodice (Fig. i). Then place the combinations on the table with the button-hole side uppermost, double over the shaped part of the leg by dotted line (Fig. i), so as to make them the same width all the way up, then double them from the bottom upwards, so as to make the trimming at the foot come just below the trimming at the neck (Fig. 2), turn over and double them again. Lastly, turn back and see that they look nicely arranged, doubling back the sleeves if necessary, and separating the legs so as to show both pieces of embroidery (Fig- 3). How to Iron and Fold a Night-Dress. A night-dress is ironed in very much the same way as a chemise. If there is a yoke, iron it after the embroidery and bands. Place the night-dress on the table with the front uppermost, the neck towards you, and the night-dress lying straight across the table. Pull the neck downwards so that the yoke lies upper- most, and place it so that you can iron the whole of it at one time. Iron first the right side and then turn back; slip the iron inside the night-dress and iron the wrong side of the yoke. Iron the skirt of 4 6 The Art of Laundry Work. the night-dress in the same way as a chemise, leaving the sleeves to the last. To iron the sleeves, fold the night-dress double lengthways, keep the neck at your left hand side and the sleeves towards you, throw back the upper sleeve, and iron the under one on the top side; then fold it back underneath, draw the other one forward, and iron it on the same side. Next turn the night-dress so that the neck is at your right hand side, and iron the other two sides of the sleeves in the same way. This way of ironing the sleeves prevents any crushing of the night-dress. Body-Linen. 47 Crimp or goffer any frills that require it, and the night-dress is ready for folding. A night-dress may be folded in two ways like a chemise, by the side fold or the front fold. In doing the side fold, make the pleats come from below the yoke or tucks (Fig. i). After the night-dress is folded to a proper width, take the two sleeves together and lay them in pleats over the back, just leaving them long enough to fold over on to the front (Fig. 2). Fold in three or four from the bottom upwards, turn over, and make the two sleeves lie nicely over the front (Fig. 3). 48 The Art of Laundry Work. In the front fold the sleeves must be folded so that one lies over at each side of the front (3 figs, a, &, c}. Bed and Table Linen, 49 CHAPTER VI. BED, TABLE, AND OTHER HOUSEHOLD LINEN. Bed-Linen. Sheets should be stretched well by two people while damp, folded very evenly in four, and then mangled. It is not necessary to iron them, but be particular to air them thoroughly, turning them occasionally so that they get dried right through. If there is any embroidery on the sheets, that must be ironed, pressing it out well on the wrong side ; or, if they are hem- stitched, iron the hems out well to give them a finished appearance. Pillow and Bolster Cases may either be mangled and the tapes only ironed, or they may be ironed all over as well as being mangled. The latter method will of course make them smoother, and it really requires very little time to run over them quickly on both sides with a hot iron. This is especially necessary for fine linen pillow-cases. Embroidered Pillow- Cases or pillow shams will look better if they are put through some very thin hot-water starch, put several times through the wringer, and then rolled up for some time in a towel before ironing. If there are frills, these should be ironed first, ironing them on the right side so as to give them a gloss, and go well into the gathers without making any wrinkles. Next iron the centre on the right side. If there is embroidery, keep off it as much as possible, 50 The Art of Laundry Work. just ironing well round it ironing it on the right side would press it down. If a pillow-case, put your hand inside and separate the two sides, as the starch always makes them stick a little, then turn over and iron the second side. Iron both sides free from wrinkles, and try to get a good gloss on the linen. Press out the embroidery well on the wrong side, and lastly crimp or goffer the frills. Air well, and it is finished. Bed-Covers. Thick, heavy bed-covers only require to be stretched and folded evenly while damp, well mangled, and then thoroughly aired. Those of a lighter make are better to be put through some thin starch, or some ready-made starch may be added to the water they are rinsed in. This will give them a slight stiffness which will make them look better and keep their clean appearance longer. If a polish is wanted, they must be ironed as well as mangled. Any lace or embroidery must always be ironed, and fringes combed and brushed out. Bed-room Towels. These should be folded evenly while damp and well mangled. Then run over them quickly with a hot iron on both sides, fold them in four lengthways, and air well. If there are fringes, these should be brushed and combed out before ironing ; and after ironing, combed out again to make them free and soft. If there are embroidered initials or monograms on the towels, press them out well on the wrong side. Coarse Bath Towels and Turkish Towels. These should neither be mangled nor ironed, the rougher they are the better. Stretch them well, iron Bed and Table Linen. 51 the plain piece at the ends, comb the fringes, and fold them evenly. Air them well. Table- Linen Starching of. Table-linen will look better and keep its clean appearance longer if slightly starched. The amount of starch used depends upon individual taste and the quality of the damask. The better the material, the less starch will be required. Many people object to starching table-linen on the ground that it rots it, but a very little starch really does no harm, and in fact saves in the end, as a table-cloth that is made slightly stiff will keep clean double the time a perfectly limp one would do. Starch also preserves from stains. Table-linen should be starched while wet, it would be too stiff if starched dry, and the starch would not penetrate through it so evenly. If there is a large quantity to starch, it will save time and much wringing if some very thick hot-water starch is made (page 114) and added to the blue rinsing water ; or if there are only a few things, after wringing them, put them through some thin hot-water starch. Wring well after starch- ing, putting the things through the wringer as smoothly as possible ; if wrung twisted they will have a streaky appearance when ironed. Table-napkins and d'Oyleys should be put through the starch before table-cloths, as they are required slightly stiffen Table-Cloths. After wringing them out of the starch, each one must be stretched well by two people. Stretch it first one way and then the other, and shake it out well to get it a good shape and even at the sides. Fold it by doubling it, selvedge to selvedge, with the 5 2 The Art of Laundry Work, right side out. Let the single sides drop, and then pick them up, one on each side, to the double fold. The table-cloth will then be folded in four, and the right side will be inside. Spread the table-cloth out on a table and arrange it quite smoothly, making the folds and the hems at the ends quite even. Double it and mangle. Let it lie for some time rolled up in a cloth before ironing, or if there is difficulty in getting very hot irons, it will be as well to let it dry a little first, but be careful it does not get too dry, or it will not look well. To iron a table-cloth, spread it out smoothly on a table in the folds and with the two selvedges towards you, and the two double folds from you. Keep it in the folds as much as possible. Iron first the upper part, turn that back, iron the next two parts, turn back again and iron the next two, and so on, ironing each fold as you come to it until the whole of the table- cloth has been ironed on both sides, then double the table-cloth and mark the fold down with the iron. Air well, and then either roll or fold. To get a good gloss on table-linen, the hotter and heavier the irons are the better. Keep them well greased, and press heavily, ironing until almost dry. If the table- cloth is very large, it is better if two people can iron it at one time, otherwise it would get dry before it was all finished. Table- Napkins. Fold them double, selvedge to selvedge, perfectly evenly, and mangle several at one time, then let them lie rolled up in a towel for some time before ironing. To iron them, take one at a time, shake out and stretch evenly, lay out very smoothly on the table with Bed and Table Linen, 53 the right side uppermost, and as square as possible. Iron the right side first, then the wrong, and back again on the right. Be careful not to stretch the edges out of shape, and iron until quite dry. They are ironed on both sides to avoid having one side rough and the other smooth, as sometimes happens. Give the hems an extra iron to dry them well. Table-napkins can be folded either in three or in four, according to taste. To fold in four, fold in the same way as a table-cloth, only on the opposite side, bringing the right side outside instead of the wrong. Get the ends very even, press the folds well with an iron, and fold in four across, making a square again. Air well before laying them away. To fold in three, measure the sides (hems) first, and get them divided into three equal parts, press them down with an iron to keep them in place, then make the folds right across and iron them down, fold in three across to make a square again, and press with the iron once more. If there is a name, it must be on the outside when the table-napkin is folded; if a monogram or raised initials, iron well on the wrong side to make the embroidery stand out. D'Oyleys. Starch in the same way as table-napkins, and let them lie rolled up for some time. If they have fringes, shake them well out against the edge of the table before beginning to iron. This opens out the fringes. To iron, spread out on the table, and brush out the fringe all round with a small brush, and comb it with a fine comb until it lies quite straight, then iron the centre of the d'Oyley and the fringes on both 54 The Art of Laundry Work. sides, and brush and comb the fringe again until it is quite soft and free. The brushing and combing must be done carefully, so as not to draw out the threads, and always before the fringe is dried with the iron. Finish by trimming off any untidy ends with a pair of scissors. If liked, the fringes may be curled, using a blunt knife or a paper knife, and curling them as you would an ostrich feather. D'Oyleys with netted or tatted edges should be pinned out on a covered board or table, stretching each point well and putting in pins where required. Then iron the centres only (ironing would spoil the edges), and leave them pinned out until dry. After unpinning them, if the edges feel rather stiff and hard, pull them out with the ringers. D'Oyleys with a full lace edge should have the lace ironed first, then the centre, and, lastly, the lace goffered round very evenly. To Fold a Square D'Oyley with Fringes. Fold from corner to corner and make a mark with the iron, open out and do the same with the other two corners, then fold from side to side both ways, and the marks well down with the iron. You have now the two straight and two slanted lines across the square. Next fold each side into the centre, marking each one and opening them out (Fig. i). Then take each side in turn and bend its centre down to the centre of the square, this yields a peculiar form with four tips (Fig. 2). The ends of these tips are now bent down to the centre, and the whole is pressed down (Fig. 3). Double the points half way back, and it is finished (Fig. 4). This sounds very complicated, Bed and Table Linen, 55 but it is really quite simple, and can be quickly done after being repeated once or twice. Tray Cloths and Sideboard Cloths are treated in the same way as other table-linen. If they have fringes, get them brushed and combed out before they get dry. If they can be ironed on both sides, then do so; but if they have a distinct right side, iron on the right side only, just pressing out any embroidery on the wrong side, and iron round the hems. If there is lace round the edges, iron it first before the centre, and do any goffering that is required last of all. There is no particular way of folding tray cloths and sideboard cloths; just fold them to the size which is most suitable for laying away. Ix)ng sideboard cloths are better rolled than folded. Toilet Covers. These should be put through thin starch when wet, wrung out, and hung up to dry slightly. Then fold them very evenly double and mangle well. Next iron on the right side to get a good gloss, and brush out any fringes. To fold them, double lengthways and press the fold down, and then either roll up or fold 56 The Art of Laundry Work. once or twice across. Do not make too many folds in a toilet cover, or it will not lie well. Kitchen Towels, Dusters, &c. These should just be folded evenly while damp, and then mangled. It is quite unnecessary to iron them, but air them well before laying away. Flannels. 5 7 CHAPTER VII. FLANNELS AND OTHER WOOLLEN ARTICLES. Washing of Flannels. As a rule it is best to begin a washing with these, in order that clothes may get the benefit of the morning air for drying before the sun gets too bright. First shake the flannels well to remove the dust, for if not shaken out it would turn to a species of mud, and would not only be difficult to remove, but would dis- colour the material. Flannels are always better to be washed by hand. If they have to be done by machinery on account of shortness of time, the machine must be one without any beating or scrub- bing apparatus, and boiling water and steam must be avoided. To wash flannels, prepare a tub half full of warm water, not too hot, but just comfortable for the hand to rest in, and pour into it enough soap jelly (see page 117) to make a good lather. If the water is hard and the things to be washed greasy, add to it ammonia, one tablespoonful to two gallons of water, and this will considerably soften the water. Any good soap may be used, preferably olive oil soap or ammonia soap. With the latter ammonia would not be required. Commence with the light-coloured and cleanest flannels, leaving the dirtiest, and those in which the colour is most likely to run, such as reds and crimsons, E 58 The Art of Laundry Work. to the end. Avoid rubbing flannels except any particularly soiled parts, or those of a coarse make, as rubbing inclines to shrink them ; but squeeze well and work up and down in the water, drawing them through the hands. Wash them a second time in a weaker lather of water and soap, turning the flannels on the other side if this can be done, as in the case of shirts, night-dresses, &c. After the light-coloured flannels are done, the same lather may do for the darker ones ; only if the water is dirty or if the lather has disappeared, take entirely fresh, and use the second lather of the light things as the first of the darker. Never wash in dirty water, and never rub soap on to flannels. Do not commence too many flannels at one time, as the sooner they are finished and hung up to dry the better. It is especially necessary to hurry through the process in washing coloured flannels. Rinsing and Wringing. Rinse the flannels in plenty of warm water, two or three times if necessary, until they feel soft to the touch. Should any soap be left in them, they will not only be hard and sticky, but have an unpleasant smell when dried. Never rinse in too hot or cold water, as either of these would cause them to shrink suddenly, and feel hard like pasteboard. A little blue may be added to the last water in which white flannels are rinsed. When thoroughly rinsed, wring the flannels as dry as possible. This is best done through the machine, as it does not twist them. Any rough twisting would break the fibres of the wool. Shake them well out, pull into a good shape, and they are ready for drying. Flannels. 59 Drying. Flannels must on no account be allowed to lie about wet. This shrinks them more than anything. Whenever it is possible, they should be dried in the open air in a good wind and not too bright a sun. Failing this, dry them in a warm atmosphere, where they will dry quickly; but at the same time they must not be put so close to an open fire or in such a hot place, that they steam. This would be as bad as putting them into boiling water. Shake the flannels and turn them once or twice while drying, pulling them into a good shape. Mangling or Ironing. For the coarser and thicker flannels it will be sufficient if they are mangled when nearly dry. Any bands or tapes must be ironed, and then the articles hung up again to finish drying. The finer kinds should be ironed when nearly dry with a rather cool iron. If they have become quite dry it will be necessary to spread a slightly damp cloth over them and iron over that, pressing heavily. Never iron flannels very wet, or the hot iron will shrink them up, and on no account must the iron be too hot, especially in ironing coloured flannels. Should any scorching occur, dip the piece in warm water, squeeze it well, and rub gently, then wring out and re-dry. Reasons for Flannels Shrinking. 1. Soap has been rubbed on them instead of soap jelly being used. 2. They have either been washed or rinsed in too hot or cold water. 60 The Art of Laundry Work, 3. They have been allowed to lie about wet, instead of being hung up to dry immediately. 4. They have been dried too slowly. 5. They have been dried so close to an open fire that they steamed. 6. They have been ironed while wet with a very hot iron. New Flannels and Sanitary Underclothing. These are better to be soaked for about half-an-hour before washing in warm water with ammonia in it, one tablespoonful to two gallons of water. Cover the tub over to prevent the heat escaping, and squeeze and wring them out of this before the water has time to get cold. This process draws out some of the sulphur which new flannels contain, and which would prevent the soap making a lather, and it also helps to remove the grease. Then wash in the same way as flannels. Stockings and Socks. The comfort of stockings and socks, as well as their durability, depends very much upon their being well washed. The soles, heels, and toes require special attention. These should always be rubbed, using the washing board and a little soap if necessary. Wash them first on the right side, then turn and wash on the wrong, giving them two waters. Fold them evenly by the seam at the back of the leg before wringing and drying. When nearly dry, either mangle them or iron them on the wrong side, and leave them wrong side out ready for mending. Flannels. 6 1 Blankets. Always choose a fine day for washing blankets, as it is a mistake to dry them indoors. First shake them well, and then let them soak in warm water, if new, adding ammonia or a handful of borax previously dissolved to draw out the grease. Let them remain about fifteen minutes, then wring out, and proceed with the washing. Prepare water with soap jelly, the same as for flannels, and have it in the largest tub you have. Put the blankets in, one or two at a time, move them up and down in this, squeezing and pressing them against the sides ; then put them in a second tub of the same kind of water to repeat the process. In Scotland, instead of being washed with the hands, they are tramped with the bare feet. They may also be pounded with a dolly. Rinse well until free from soap, and then wring. On no account wring tightly, or it will flatten the pile ; and if the wringer is used, let the rollers be as loose as possible. The colour of the blankets depends very much upon the cleanliness of the water they are washed in, so be particular to change it whenever necessary. Shake the blankets well before hanging up to dry, . and hang them quite straight and singly on the clothes rope in a gentle wind. See that they are securely fastened and well raised above the ground. When dry, take them down, stretch them well, and rub all over with a piece of clean rough flannel so as to raise the pile, and then hang them near a fire for some time, as it is most important to have them thoroughly dry. 62 The Art of Laundry Work. Shetland and other Shawls. Wash in the same way as flannels, but handle more gently, especially the finer ones, squeezing them well, and being careful not to break the threads of wool. Rinse them well in warm water, putting a little blue into the last rinsing water for white shawls, and for fine Shetland shawls a little hot-water starch, about one breakfast cupful thick starch to one gallon of water. Squeeze the water well out of the shawls, or put them through a wringer. Avoid twisting them in any way. If you have no wringer, after squeezing out as much of the water as you can, beat it well between the folds of a towel. To dry a shawl, spread a sheet on the floor and pin it tightly at the corners ; pin out the shawl on this, stretching it well but not over much, pin out each point, and be careful to keep the shawl a good shape. Leave it till quite dry, then unpin carefully, shake it out, and air if necessary. The Sulphur Bath. White shawls and flannels which have become yellow may be whitened by putting them in a sulphur bath. Take a deep barrel, break up about one oz. of rock sulphur, and put it on an old plate or tin dish at the foot of it ; sprinkle over the sulphur a few drops of methylated spirits, and then set fire to it. When the methylated spirits have burnt out and the sulphur itself is burning, suspend the flannels or shawls across the fumes. This must be done just before they are dried. Twist them loosely round sticks, pinning them here and there to prevent their slipping down and catching fire, and place the sticks across the barrel ; Flannels. 63 or a wire cage may be used, suspended on the top of the barrel. Cover over with a blanket or something thick enough to keep in the fumes, and let them remain about twenty minutes. Turn the things once during the time, so that every part of them gets whitened. Great care must be taken to have the things raised sufficiently high above the sulphur to avoid all danger of their catching fire. A Chamois Leather. Wash and rinse in the same way as flannels, only rub well and pull out frequently while drying to keep it soft. A chamois leather should be perfectly soft and equal to new when finished. It may be smoothed out last of all with a cool iron. Eider-down Quilts. These may be washed like flannels, or when large, like blankets. If the colour runs in them, use the water just tepid, and add ammonia to it. Put am- monia or salt in the last rinsing water to brighten the colours. The drying requires special attention. They must be dried in a good wind, and frequently shaken and rubbed to prevent the down getting clotted and forming into lumps. Swans-down. Wash gently in warm water, making a lather with soap jelly, and rinse in tepid water. To dry it, stand a little distance from the fire and shake till quite dry. 64 The Art of Laundry Work. Flannelette. Wash in the same way as flannel, only it will do it no harm if you rinse in cold water. White flan- nelette may even be boiled along with cotton articles. Dry and finish off like flannels. Delaine. When carefully washed, delaine should look equal to new. Wash it in exactly the same way as flannels, and be careful with the rinsing. Add ammonia in the proportion of one tablespoonful to one gallon of water to the last warm water. This will help to brighten the colour. Iron while slightly damp, and not so dry as for flannel. If it is lined, iron the lining first. Muslins, Lace, &c. 65 CHAPTER VIII. MUSLINS, LACE, CURTAINS, AND NET. Washing of Muslin. WHITE muslins should first be put through cold water, to take out the dressing or stiffening, or if time permits, allowed to soak in it like other clothes. Next wring out and wash in the ordinary way, rubbing soap on the muslin and washing with the hands rather than on the board. Muslin requires more careful handling than ordinary cotton. It must be treated more gently, and not pulled out of shape, nor stretched, or it will have a drawn look. Being thin and open in texture, it is easy to wash without any rough handling. If the muslin is coloured, and the colours are likely to run, soak it first in salt and water, allowing a handful of salt to one gallon of water ; let the water for washing be just tepid, and proceed as quickly as possible, putting salt again or a little ammonia in the final rinsing water. All muslin must be rinsed in tepid water first, and then in cold, until quite clear and free from soap. Only the pure white muslin will require blueing. Clear Starching and Ironing. All muslin should be starched wet. If put into the starch dry, it never looks so clear. Prepare some clear starch (see p. 114), and thin it to the consistency required. This depends upon what the muslin is 66 The Art of Laundry Work. wanted for, and according to the degree of stiffness you wish. It is impossible to give the exact quan- tities of starch necessary for clear starch, as different qualities and makes of starch require more water than others, but experience will soon teach you, and at first it will be just as well to test the stiffness of the starch by a small piece of muslin. Be sure to have the starch clear, put the muslins into it, putting in those white articles you wish stiffest first. Let the starch soak well through, then wring well, putting them twice at least through the wringing machine. In starching coloured muslins, do not let the starch be too hot, or it will destroy the colours ; and never put things through the wringer straight out of boiling hot starch, as it ruins the india-rubber rollers. In thinning the starch, after it has been made clear with boiling water, cold water may be used, and that will make the starch a more comfortable heat to use. After wringing the muslins, shake them well, smooth out, and let them lie for some time rolled up in a towel before ironing. Muslin must be ironed wet. If allowed to get dry, it will have a rough appearance when ironed. Iron on the right side to give it a gloss, and the way of the thread as much as possible. When ironing a large piece of muslin, keep as much of it covered over at one time as you conveniently can, to prevent it becoming dry. Should the muslin dry before it is ironed, damp it down very evenly with a wet rubber or towel, not missing a piece, or it will not look smooth. Embroidered muslin should be ironed on the wrong side, to raise the pattern. Spotted muslin should also be ironed on the wrong side, unless the spots are pretty far apart, when it may Muslins ) Lace, &c. 67 look better ironed first on the right side to give the muslin a gloss, and afterwards ironed over on the wrong to press out the spots. In ironing coloured muslins, do not use the iron too hot, as it is apt to destroy the colours. Muslin trimmed with lace should have the laee ironed first, and then the muslin itself. If the muslin feels too stiff after ironing, the fault can be remedied by putting it through water and then ironing again. Air muslin well after ironing, or it will become limp. Washing of Lace. Lace requires very careful treatment. If very much soiled, soak it for several hours in a lather of warm water and soap, and allow one teaspoonful of powdered borax to one quart of water. Then squeeze it out of the soaking water, and wash it in two or three warm lathers of soap and water. Do not rub it, but squeeze between the hands and press it well. Any rubbing or twisting would break the threads of the lace, especially if it were of a fine make. When clean, rinse well in tepid water, and then in cold, and if time permits allow it to lie for some time in the cold water to clear it. Pure white lace may have the last rinsing water slightly tinged with blue. If after repeated washings the lace still has a soiled look, it may either be bleached in the sun or boiled. To boil lace, put it into a jar or jam pot, with cold water to cover it, and a little soap jelly; stand the jar in a saucepan with boiling water to reach fully half way up the jar, put the lid on the pan and boil for two or three hours. Care must be taken that the water in the pan does not boil away. 68 The Art of Laundry Work. Starching and Ironing of Lace. There is great difference of opinion about the starching of lace, some people objecting to any starch being put in it at all, on the grounds that it makes the lace too stiff, and tends to destroy it. But as a rule a little starch is an improvement in most laces, the object to be aimed at in starching being to get the lace of the same stiffness as when new, and no stiffer. Take some clear starch and thin it down until it feels like slightly thickened water, or for heavy thick laces, a little thicker. Let the lace soak well in the starch and then squeeze out gently with the hands. Spread it out between the folds of a towel or old handkerchief, and either beat it between the hands or pass it through the wringing machine. Avoid twisting the lace in any way. Cream lace may be put through cream starch, or through starch coloured with tea or coffee (see Coloured Starches, page 1 1 6), instead of white starch. When very little stiffness is required, and starch is objected to, the lace may be put through water in which a little rice has been boiled, or dissolve a lump of sugar in a cupful of boiling water, and use this instead of starch. Lace must on no account be starched stiffly, but ought to fall quite softly. After wringing, pull the lace out gently with the fingers, and roll it up with the wrong side inside, commencing at the left hand end, and with the points or edges away from you. This will be found the most convenient way to have it when ironing. After rolling up one piece, keep it well covered to prevent it becoming dry whilst pulling out the others. To iron Muslins, Lace, &c. 69 lace, take a piece of clean white felt or flannel three or four thicknesses, and iron the lace over this on the wrong side, and with a moderately hot iron. Keep the points from you when ironing, and iron them well out. Do not unroll too much at one time, but unroll as you go along, and iron the lace until it is quite dry. If too stiff, rub it gently to take out some of the starch, and iron again. Press well with the iron, and at the same time not roughly. Use the point of the iron to raise the pattern of the lace. Keep the lace the same width all the way along, and air well before laying it away. Very fine lace should be ironed through muslin, and never touched with the bare iron. Crochet and Tatting should not be ironed, but pinned out by every point on a covered board or table, and allowed to remain until dry. If too stiff after unpinning, pull it out with the fingers. Punching of Lace. Some laces, such as Honiton, Point, Brussels, or any with a very marked pattern, may be made to stand out still more by means of a punching iron. The round ball part of these must be heated on a spirit lamp, or by resting it against a hot iron. After testing the heat of it, hold it perpendicularly, and work it quickly up and down over any part of the lace you wish to stand out particularly. Use the iron rather hot, and have two or three in use, so that you can always have one hot to use. This is rather tiring work, but the extra labour is amply repaid in the improved appearance of the lace. 70 The Art of Laundry Work, How to Iron a Muslin and Lace Handkerchief. This must be put through the very thinnest starch, and wrung the same way as lace. Iron the lace first, pulling it out after ironing to keep it soft, and then iron it over again. Iron the centre part next. Turn over to the right side, and wet the muslin part over with a damp rubber (it is sure to have become dry while the lace was being ironed). Iron it with a rather cool iron until smooth and glossy. If necessary, punch out the lace round the edges last of all, and the handkerchief is finished. Black Lace. First brush it well' with a soft brush to get rid of as much dust as possible. If it is spotted or stained, wash it in tea with a very little soap jelly added, then rinse it in more tea, and finally let it soak for about half-an-hour in prepared tea (seepage 118). If the lace is quite clean, and you merely wish to stiffen and renew its appearance, you may dispense with the washing, and simply soak it in the prepared tea. The gum-arabic in the tea gives the lace a slight stiffness. When doing up silk lace, add two teaspoonfuls of methylated spirits to a half-pint of prepared tea to give a gloss to the silk in the lace. After soaking, squeeze the lace out of the tea. Shake it well, and spread it out between the folds of a towel or cloth, and either beat it with the hands or pass it once or twice through the wringer, then pull it out with the fingers, and roll up in the same way as white lace. Muslins, Lace^ &c. 71 To iron black lace, take a sheet of kitchen paper, spread the lace out on the smoothest side of it with the points away from you, cover over with more paper, and iron over that. Lift the upper pieces of paper occasionally to see that the lace lies smoothly under- neath. Iron until quite dry, and hang up to air. Black lace must never be touched with the bare iron ; there must always be something over it to prevent it getting glazed. Paper not only prevents the lace staining the ironing sheet, but it also imparts a slight stiffness to it. Curtains. First shake the curtains well, or hang them up and brush them down with a soft brush to get rid of the superfluous dust, then soak in warm water and borax one tablespoonful to two gallons of water for an hour or two. Squeeze them well in this, and then pass through the wringing machine. Wash in warm water, making a lather with boiled soap. Work them up and down in this, squeezing and pulling them through the hands. If not clean after the first washing, repeat the process. Rubbing of all kinds must be avoided, and it is always dangerous to wash curtains by machinery. Rinse them in the usual way, first in warm water, then in plenty of cold. Wring well and starch them. Pure white curtains may have a little blue either added to the last rinsing water or mixed in with the starch. If two oz. of alum be dissolved in one gallon of water, it will prevent the curtains catching fire at any time. Starch curtains wet, and have the starch just a moderate degree of stiffness. For white curtains, use 72 The Art of Laundry Work. the ordinary white hot-water starch ; for cream or e"cru, use starch coloured with tea or coffee, or cream starch. See Coloured Starches, page 116. Curtains ought to be dried quickly ; they are always better to be stretched and pinned out on frames for the purpose, or on sheets spread on the floor. Allow them to remain until almost dry, take up and iron round the edges, pressing out all the points well, then hang up to air. If there is no con- venience for having the curtains pinned out, partly dry them by hanging them at a safe distance from the fire, or in a warm room ; then spread them out on a table, and iron all over. If curtains are lined, iron the linings first before stretching and pinning out to dry ; and when ironing, iron from the middle towards the sides, so that if there is any fulness it may come to the edge where it will show least. Plain and Spotted Net. Wash in the same way as lace, and put through thin hot-water starch. Iron plain net on the wrong side ; stretch and pull it out, and then iron again. It must not be too stiff, and should look clear. When you hold it up to the light, the little holes in the net should not be filled with starch. Iron spotted net in the same way, only a piece of flannel may be put under it to make the spots stand out better. A Gentleman's Evening Tie. Care must be taken in washing these to keep them a good colour. They may be washed along with laces or fine muslins, but must not come in con- tact with anything dirty. After blueing, and while Muslins , Lace, &c. 73 still wet, put them through clear starch of a moderate thickness, rather thicker than for ordinary muslins ; let the starch soak well through them, and then squeeze out with the hands. Shake them out well, put them between the folds of a towel, and pass them through the wringing machine. To prepare them for ironing, pull them out well, and roll up from left to right, keeping the muslin the same width all the way along. If there are hems at the ends of the ties, notice which is the right side, and keep the right side inside when rolling. Cover each tie up as it is prepared, to pre- vent it becoming dry, until all are finished, and you are ready to iron them. To iron one of these ties, take a moderately hot iron, commence at the loose end of the roll, and iron carefully along from one end to the other, unrolling as you go along. Iron along several times until smooth and glossy, ironing on one side only. Turn over, and it is ready for folding. First turn down a small piece at the top of the tie, just sufficient to take in the rough edge of the material, and press it down with the iron. Next turn up a piece at the foot of the tie, rather larger than that at the top, and according to the width you wish the points to be (Fig. i). Be careful to have both ends alike, and press down with the iron again. Fold down the top piece again, making the tie the same width all the way along. Measure the two points, and if they are F 74 The Art of Laundry Work. exactly alike, iron along once more (Fig. 2). Fold loosely in four, and tie a thread round the centre to prevent it slipping (Fig. 3). Chiffon. Chiffon is washed in the same way as muslin, and after rinsing, put through very thin clear starch. Be careful not to twist it in any way, but enclose it in the folds of a towel, and either beat it between the hands until dry or put it through the wringing machine. Do not let chiffon lie too long before ironing, it dries so very quickly ; stretch it out to its proper shape, and iron it on the right side with a moderately hot iron. If it is a large piece, do not expose too much of it to the air at one time, but keep the part you are not ironing covered over to prevent it becoming dry. Pull out occasionally whilst ironing to keep it soft, and iron over again. It must on no account be made stiff, but ought to fall softly, and just have sufficient stiffness to prevent it looking limp. Silks, Prints, &c. 75 CHAPTER IX. SILKS, PRINTS, SATEENS, AND FANCY ARTICLES. Washing of White Silk. PREPARE a lather of tepid water and soap jelly, squeeze the silk well in this, and work it up and down in the water. Take two or three different soapy waters if necessary until the silk is quite clean. Never use the water too hot, as it would make the silk yellow, and never rub soap on white silk for the same reason. If the pieces of silk are small, or if they are silk handkerchiefs, a basin will be quite large enough for washing in, and then less soap will be required. At the same time, the basin must be large enough to use comfortably. After washing, rinse the silk thoroughly, first in tepid, and then in plenty of cold water, letting the water from the tap rush on the silk, or letting it lie in clear cold water for a short time. It is most important to get the soap well out of the silk, or it will look thick and feel hard when ironed. Pure white silk should have a little blue added to the last rinsing water, to bring back its clear bluish colour. To Put a Gloss on Silk. After rinsing, put the silk through cold water with methylated spirits in it, allowing one dessertspoonful of the spirit to half-pint of cold water. There is no 7 6 The Art of Laundry Work. occasion to prepare a large quantity of this, but there must be sufficient to soak the silk thoroughly. Then squeeze well out. Wringing and Ironing. In wringing silk, be most careful not to twist it in any way, as it will then have a drawn look and a washed appearance when finished. Squeeze the silk well between the hands, then shake it out, fold it evenly, and place it between the folds of a towel or piece of muslin, and afterwards either beat it between the hands or pass it once or twice through the wring- ing machine. Be careful that there is no starch on the rollers when putting it through the wringer. The silk may lie for some time rolled up in a towel, but must not be allowed to get too dry before ironing, as to sprinkle it with water afterwards would give it a spotted appearance. If it should happen to get dry, it will have to be put into water again, or damped all over with a wet rubber. Before iron- ing, smooth the silk out well on the table, lay over it a piece of muslin or old handkerchief, and iron over with a moderately hot iron. When slightly dry, remove the covering, and iron with the bare iron, first on one side and then on the other, to give the silk a gloss. If the silk feels in the least hard after ironing, shake it and rub it between the hands, and then iron again. The silk when finished should be as smooth and soft as when new. Some silks, such as corded silks and ribbons, look better without being glazed. These should never be touched with the iron, but have something between them and it. If a very hot iron is put on wet silk, it will stick to it and shrivel Sites, Prints^ &c. 77 it up. That is the reason why the silk should be covered when you first commence to iron it. A Gentleman's Silk Tie. If these have a lining in them, take a needle and thread and tack right down the centre to prevent the lining curling up inside, then wash them in the same way as other silks. Before ironing them, stretch well until the lining lies straight inside, then gently draw out the tacking thread. Ironing over the thread would leave marks on the silk. Coloured Silks. Before washing these, soak them for a short time in cold water with a little salt in it. If the colour is inclined to run, this will prevent it to a certain extent. Silks of different colours should be soaked separately. Wash the silks in the same way as white silks, still using the water tepid, as hot would be more apt to draw out the colours. If the colour comes out very much, hurry through the process as much as possible, and do not let the silk lie about between the different waters, especially where there is a mixture of colours in the silk, as one colour would run into the other. It is better to put the articles as quickly as possible from one water to the other. In rinsing, add a little salt or ammonia to the last water, in order to fix the colour, and then put through the methylated spirit water to give it a gloss. In ironing coloured silks, do not use the iron too hot, or it will destroy the colours ; and if the colour is coming out to any extent, spread a piece of clean cloth over the ironing sheet to prevent the silk staining it. 78 Tfa Art of Laundry Work. Washing of Prints. When prints are being washed for the first time, and there is danger of the colour running, it is well to soak them in cold water with salt in it before washing them. Allow a handful of salt to one gallon of water. Wash them in tepid water, making a lather with boiled soap the same as for flannels. In fact, the water in which flannels have been washed, if it continues clean enough, will be suitable for the washing of prints and coloured things. Give them at least two soapy waters, squeezing and rubbing them gently with the hands until they are quite clean. Pay particular attention to the most soiled parts. If there is the least fear of the colour running, do not rub soap on them. After they have been washed several times, and when you are quite sure of the colour being fast, the prints may be washed by the ordinary method for white cotton articles. Some prints will even stand boiling, but do not attempt this unless you are quite certain there is no danger of their colour being destroyed. When clean, rinse the prints first in tepid water, and then in plenty of clear cold water. Add salt or ammonia, one tablespoonful to a gallon, to the last rinsing water when the colours are not fast. Vinegar is good for restoring blues, and ox-gall for dark colours. The strength of the colour depends very much upon the quality of the material. If the colours have been properly mixed before being used for printing, they will stand soap and water perfectly; if not, careful washing will not prevent them fading. When water becomes tinged with the colour of the material that has been washed in it, it must be poured away at once, and not used for anything else. Goods of different colours which Silks, Prints , &v. 79 are not fast must be washed separately. After rinsing, wring them out, fold evenly, and pass them once or twice through the wringing machine. In all cases, when washing coloured articles, avoid the use of soda and washing powders. Bran Water. Sewed work and crewels are often washed in bran water. To make bran water, put half-pint or breakfast cup- ful of bran into a saucepan with one quart of cold water ; bring this to the boil, and simmer slowly for about ten minutes. Watch it carefully when nearly boiling, as it very quickly boils over. Strain through a piece of muslin or very fine strainer, and cool down with one quart of cold water. The bran may be put on again with exactly the same amount of water, and boiled again as before, when it will be ready to use for a second water. A third water can even be taken off it. Another way is to sew the bran into a cotton or muslin bag before boiling it. Before washing with the bran water, add a little soap jelly to it, just sufficient to make a lather ; very little will be required, as the bran makes the water very soft. Squeeze the articles well in this, and work them up and down. If necessary, use a second bran water with soap, then rinse well, first in tepid, and afterwards in plenty of clear cold water. Bran water not only preserves from fading, but also somewhat stiffens the material, so if the articles are not to be starched afterwards, and still a slight stiffness is required, rinse them in bran water instead of plain water. 80 The Art of Laundry Work. This mode of washing is suitable for wool work on canvas, when you wish it slightly stiffened, and where starching would spoil the appearance of the wool. Starching and Ironing. When coloured things are only wished slightly stiff, they should be put through thin clear starch while they are still wet. Wring them again after starching, and then either roll up in a towel and let them lie some time before ironing, or hang them up to dry slightly. If wished very stiff, let them dry first, and then starch. Do not use the starch too hot, or it will destroy the colours, and when ironing them, do not use the iron too hot for the same reason. Iron on the right side, except in cases where the pattern is raised or dull, and a gloss would be un- suitable. When ironing any fancy article with sewed work, press out the sewed part on the wrong side over flannel. Canvas work is better not to be ironed, but should be stretched well and pinned out on a table with the right side up, and allowed to remain until dry. How to Starch and Iron a Cotton Petticoat. It is not necessary to starch the whole of the gar- ment. It will generally be found sufficient if it is just starched about a quarter of a yard up from the foot, or to the top of any tucks or embroidery. The starching may be done before the petticoat is hung up to dry. Have a basin of clear starch, not very thick ; dip the foot of the petticoat into this, squeeze the starch well through it, and then pass it once or twice through the wringing machine. In wringing, put the band end through first. Silks, Prints, &>c. 81 Or the petticoat may be starched dry. Sprinkle it well with water down as far as the tucks or frills, and then dip the foot part into the starch in the same way as before. The petticoat being dry, the starch will not require to be quite so stiff. After starching and wringing, roll the petticoat up tightly with the starched part inside, and let it lie rolled up in a towel for some time before ironing. If the petticoat is made . of pretty thick material, it will be as well to hang it up to dry slightly before commencing to iron it. To iron a petticoat or skirt of any kind well, it is necessary to have a skirt-board. It will not only be better, but much more quickly done. Have the narrow end of the skirt-board at your left hand side, and place it in a good light. Cover it with a small sheet kept for the purpose, and pin the sheet tightly underneath, so that there is no fear of it wrinkling up. If there is embroidery on the petticoat, put it on the board with the wrong side out to begin with, and the band of the petticoat towards the narrow end of the board. Iron the embroidery first, pressing it well out so as to raise the pattern. If there are two or more embroidered frills, commence with the lowest one; iron it first, then turn it back, and iron the second one, and so on. When the embroidery is finished, turn the petticoat on the right side. If there are frills on it, iron the plain piece under the frills first, then the frills themselves, except when they are made of embroidery, when they already have been ironed. While ironing any part of the skirt, always iron from you, and pull the skirt towards you as you go along. Iron the plain top part of the petticoat last; let it be pretty damp, and iron it 82 The Art of Laundry Work. firmly, so as to get it smooth and glossy. If it has become in the least dry, damp it down with a wet rubber, or it will have a rough appearance when finished. If there are full frills, goffer them before taking the petticoat off the board. If there is more than one, goffer the top one first, and then the lower. When finished, remove the petticoat from the board, iron the waistband on both sides and the strings, fold the petticoat neatly, and hang it up to air. A Dress Bodice. This should not be starched too stiffly, or it will be uncomfortable to wear. It is therefore better to starch it when wet, and then wring it well. If very thick, hang it up to dry slightly before ironing. If it is made of thin material, merely roll it up in a towel, and let it lie for a short time. To iron, commence with the linings first the neckband, then the sleeves, and lastly, the body. When ironing the lining of the body, do it in exactly the same way as a slip-bodice, keeping the neck at your left hand side, commencing with the part nearest to you, and smoothing out each piece as you go along. Do not iron the linings too dry or it will be difficult to get the right side smooth afterwards. Iron all seams out flat. Do the right side of the bodice in the same order, trying to make each piece perfectly smooth. A sleeve-board may be found useful when ironing the sleeves. If there is any lace, iron it before beginning the right side of the bodice. Leave any goffering that is required till the end. Iron round the seam at the arm-hole to make it soft and comfortable for the arm. Air well, and fold as little as possible. Silks, Prints, &c. 83. Crpon. This should be washed and starched in the same way as print, but do not iron. Stretch it well out and pull into shape. Let it dry rather quickly, and pull it out occasionally while drying. If the crepon is lined in any part, as in a dress bodice, the lining may be ironed lightly. Chintz. Wash in the same way as prints, adding a little ammonia to the last rinsing water to brighten the colours. Dry in the open air in a good wind if possible. When quite dry, put the chintz through rather thick hot-water starch, and hang up again until nearly dry. Indoor drying is best after starching, as the wind takes out so much of the starch, and makes the things limp. To iron chintz, stretch it well first, then smooth out on the table, and iron on the right side with a good hot iron. To glaze the chintz, either rub the iron on a little beeswax each time before using it, or shred down about a half ounce of white wax and add it to a quarter pound of starch before pouring on the boiling water. Holland. Wash in the same way as white cotton articles. A little tea may be added to the last rinsing water to preserve the colour. Or rinse in water in which a little hay has been boiled. After wringing finish off in the same way as prints. 84 The Art of Laundry Work. CHAPTER X. INFANTS' AND CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. Preliminary. In washing infants' clothing it is always better to keep the articles separate, and not to mix them with other clothes. Special attention must be given to them, and in dressing they require very dainty handling. The water used in washing must be changed as soon as it becomes in the least degree dirty. Neither soda nor washing powders must on any account be used, as they are irritating to the skin. Baby's Robes and Robe Skirts. If time permits, allow these to soak for an hour or two in tepid water before washing. When about to wash, wring them out of the soaking water, and wash in water as hot as the hand can bear. It is best to wash these carefully with the hands. Being fine, they will not bear being rubbed on a board or with a brush. Rub soap on them, and pay particular atten- tion to the most soiled parts. Go methodically over every part ; wash first on one side, and then on the other, and give them a second soapy water if they are not clean after the first. Then boil if necessary, and afterwards rinse, blue, and wring (see Chapter II.) Give them throughout very careful treatment, as the least unnecessary strain is apt to tear them or cause holes. Children's Clothes. 85 After wringing, put through moderately thick clear starch and wring again, putting them once or twice through the wringing machine. Roll up in a towel, and let them lie a short time before ironing, but not long enough to let them become dry. To iron a robe skirt, cover a skirt board with a fine sheet, and put the skirt on it with the wrong side out. Iron any lace round the foot and embroidery on this side, pressing it well with the iron to make the pattern stand out. Then turn, and iron the rest of it on the right side. If any of the muslin part has been dried with the ironing on the wrong side, damp it down before ironing it on the right. If there are any tucks, iron them first, stretching them out well before iron- ing, and getting them quite free from creases. Iron the plain part of the skirt from the bottom upwards, and keep drawing it towards you as you go along. Do not let it stick to the ironing-sheet, but keep lifting it up from time to time. Should it get dry before you have finished ironing, damp the end of a towel and damp the muslin over lightly with it. The muslin must on no account be ironed dry, or it will have a rough appearance, instead of looking smooth and glossy. The skirt of a robe is ironed in the same way. Iron the embroidery on the front of the bodice before turning the robe on to the right side. After turning, finish the skirt of the robe before doing the bodice. If the bodice has become dry, damp it down before ironing. Iron as much of it as possible on the board, using a small iron so as to get into the corners well. Any frills that you cannot do on the board may be left until the robe is taken off. The embroidered 86 The Art of Laundry Work. flaps or side-pieces on the front of some robes is better left until the end, and ironed off the board, the muslin part of them on the right side, and the embroidery on the wrong. Do the sleeves whichever way is found easiest. Sometimes they are wide enough to allow of the iron being slipped inside them, or they may be managed more easily by putting a roll of flannel inside and ironing over that. Goffer or crimp any frills that require it; iron out any strings, and then air well. Sun- Bonnets and Sun-Hats. These are rather troublesome articles to do up nicely, and they are to be had in such a variety of shapes that it is almost impossible to give any very definite rules, therefore the following directions are merely general. Before washing, take off any bows that are only tacked on, and open out straight. In sun-hats, loosen the drawing thread of the lining, and also that at the top of the hat. These are generally run in quite roughly, and it is very little trouble to undo them and put them in again when the hat is washed. The ironing of them will then be quite a simple matter. In all cases let the hats or bonnets dry thoroughly before starching them, so that they may take in the starch better and be as stiff as possible. Use very thick hot-water starch, and let them soak in it for at least half-an-hour. Then wring thoroughly, wrap up in a towel and let them lie for some time before ironing ; they may even lie over night if it is not convenient to iron them the same day, because being of a thick texture they will not dry quickly. To iron a sun-hat, first pull out all the embroidery Children's Clothes. 87 with the fingers, and iron it on the wrong side over flannel until quite dry. Then iron the rest of the rim, ironing on the wrong side where there is any cording, the iron would flatten the cording too much if it were ironed on the right. Do not use the iron too hot, as you will require to rest on it considerably. Iron round slowly, drying each part thoroughly, and pulling out occasionally so that the gathers lie evenly. Next iron the lining of the crown of the hat. If possible double it, lay flat on the table, and iron first on one side and then on the other. If the right side of the crown of the hat is loose, iron it in the same way, ironing it on the right side if it is plain muslin, and on the wrong if it is embroidered. If it is still drawn up, you will require to double it by the centre of the fulness, and iron up into the drawings, first on one side and then on the other, as if it were a frill. Draw the two sides apart before ironing the second side ; the starch makes them stick, and if you were not to loosen them, it would be almost impossible to iron without causing wrinkles. After ironing all round, pull out with the fingers and arrange the fulness nicely. Lay the hat flat on the table and goffer round the edges where required. Iron out ties and pieces for bows, and dry well in a warm place before making up. When the hat is a plain one, made of thick corded material without any fulness, iron the crown on the wrong side only with a small iron. To iron a sun- bonnet, commence with the em- broidery in the same way, ironing every piece of it on the wrong side. Next arrange any frills on the out- side of the bonnet, pulling them out and making 88 The Art of Laundry Work. them lie in their proper direction. Then, with a moderate iron, iron the sides of the bonnet on the wrong side. Smooth out a little piece at a time, and rest well with the iron, pulling out occasionally to keep the drawings straight. When the sides are finished, iron the back of the crown. If it is a flat piece of embroidery, iron it on the wrong side only ; if there is fulness, iron the lining first, and then the full part. After ironing as much as possible inside, iron any full piece of muslin on the crown. Double it evenly, and iron on both sides into the drawings in the same way as for a sun-hat. Iron also all plain frills on the right side, handling the bonnet so as not to crush it. Iron the muslin part of the flap of the bonnet on the right side, damping it down first if it has become dry. Then arrange it in pleats, and press them down with the iron. Iron also the heading of the flap, the ties, and any other part which may have been left, and the bonnet is ready for goffering. The easiest way to do the goffering is to put the bonnet on a block or model head for the purpose, fixing it securely so that it may be steady. Failing this, the bonnet may be put on the end of a skirt-board, or over the corner of a table, whichever way you can get most easily at it, so that you can goffer one side with- out crushing the other. Use small goffering tongs for the narrow frills, and larger ones for those that are wider. Commence with the frill furthest from you, and goffer from right to left (see page 34). Notice in what direction the frills lie, and do all those lying in the one direction first, and then those lying the other way. If there is a full muslin crown, that is also Children's Clothes. 89 sometimes goffered. Be particular to keep the goffers very straight, and at an even distance apart. Dry the bonnet well in a warm place. A Piquee Pelisse. Wash according to general directions (see p. 8), and starch while wet in thin hot-water starch. Allow it to dry slightly before ironing. Iron all embroidery first on the wrong side, over flannel, until it is quite dry. The pique*e itself must be ironed on the right side to give it a gloss. Com- mence with the cape, iron it from one end to the other, and have the coat part of the pelisse turned back from under it so that the cape itself lies single on the table. Then iron the sleeves lay out one at a time smoothly on the table, and iron first the upper and then the under part. Then lay the pelisse on the table with the neck at your left hand side, turn the cape back, and iron the coat itself. Iron the piece nearest to you first, smooth out each piece as you go along, always keeping it lying the one way, and draw the coat towards you as you get it ironed. Press well with the iron to get a gloss. Double by the shoulders and sides, and finish off round the armholes; also iron the hems on the wrong side. Then finish by goffering any trimming that requires it ; air well, and fold loosely. Shirts. After these are washed they should be put through the thinnest possible starch, wrung out, and ironed while still rather wet. Pull out the trimming with the fingers, then iron it carefully with a small iron on the G 90 The Art of Laundry Work. wrong side. Keep the cambric or muslin part of it single when ironing, and iron with the thread of the material. Iron from one end to the other, and with- out making any crease. Double it by the shoulders and sides, and finish off round the armholes. Goffer the trimming with the smallest size of goffering tongs, and then fold. To fold an infant's shirt, first make a box-pleat exactly down the middle of the front, and press it down with the iron. Then place the two halves of the back on the top of the front, and put a single pleat in each to correspond with the front. When pressing the pleats down with the iron be careful not to flatten the frills (see Fig.). Stays. When washing these, place them on the washing- board and use a brush to brush them with. Being made of firm material, they will bear a good rubbing. Boil them if necessary, and after rinsing put them through thin hot-water starch. On no account make them too stiff. For infants' stays the starch should just be like slightly thickened water. Allow them to dry slightly, and iron first on one side and then on the other, until quite dry. Stretch well while ironing, as the quilting is inclined to pucker. Hang up in a warm place" to air before laying away. Day-Gowns and Night-Gowns. Wash, boil, and rinse these according to directions given in Chapter II. If the night-gowns are wrung as dry as possible through the wringer they will not Children's Clothes. 91 require any further drying. They will look better if ironed while still rather wet. To iron a night-gown, commence with the trimming. If a plain frill, iron it on the right side ; and if lace, iron on the wrong. Use a small iron, and pull the frill out gently with the fingers. Next iron the sleeves, lay them out smoothly, and iron first the upper and then the under half. Then iron the bodice part, still using a small iron, and keeping the neck at your left hand side. Commence with the part nearest to you. When ironing the full part of the front, iron well into the gathers. The skirt of the night-gown should be ironed double first the front, and then the back. Finish off by ironing the strings, hems on the wrong side, shoulders and round arm-holes. Crimp the frills ; goffering would not keep in when there is no starch in them. The full part of the material in the front of the bodice may also be crimped. To fold, lay the night-gown on the table with the back uppermost, and double the sides over so that they meet in the centre of the back. Roll up the ties, pin them together at the back, and fold the night- gown in three or four from the bottom upwards. A day-gown is finished off in very much the same way, with the difference that it is starched slightly before ironing. The skirt is better done on the skirt- board, as the two sides would be apt to stick together if ironed double. The frills may be goffered instead of crimped in this case. Pinafores. These should always be slightly starched ; if left quite limp they will not keep their appearance any 92 The Art of Laundry Work. time, and will very soon soil. Muslin pinafores should be put through stiffer starch than those made of diaper and other fancy white material, and must always be starched wet. Diaper, and other kinds of pinafores, may be starched either wet or dry, and the starch should be quite thin. Pinafores made of muslin, and other thin material, should be wrung well and rolled in a towel for some time before ironing. Those made of thicker material may be slightly dried and then rolled up. When ironing pinafores, always commence with the embroidery, pulling it out well and ironing very care- fully. The rest of the pinafore is as a rule very simple to iron. Always keep the top of the pinafore at your left hand side, and iron the material single when possible. If the pinafore is joined up the back, iron it double first the front and then the back, or iron it on a skirt-board. If there are tucks along the foot of the pinafore, stretch them out well when ironing to prevent them dragging. Iron as much as possible with the thread of the material. A small iron must be used for getting into all gathers. Always finish off well round arm holes, and iron out all strings, and run round hems on the wrong side. If there is a full drawn front on the pinafore it sometimes looks well crimped. Goffer or crimp all frills that require it, and fold neatly. Knickerbockers. After washing these, wring and let them dry slightly before ironing. On no account must the frills be starched, as the stiffness would irritate the tender skin of young children. Iron the frills first, then the waist- Children's CloiJies. 93 band on both sides. Keep the waist at your left hand side when ironing the legs, and iron first the front and then the back of them. Iron whichever way crushes them least. There is such a variety of shapes that it is difficult to give definite rules. Iron well into gathers, and hems on the wrong side. Crimp the frills, and then fold neatly. Flannel Binders, Pilches, and Barracoats. Wash and dry these according to general directions given for washing and drying flannels (Chapter VII.). They should, when possible, be dried in the open air, it gives them a sweeter and fresher smell. When nearly dry, iron them all over with a cool iron, to make them smooth and soft. Iron all strings and bindings, and be most particular to air well. Knitted Socks and Bootees. Wash these carefully in a lather of warm water and boiled soap, and rinse in warm water (see p. 57). If white, a little blue should be added to the last rinsing water. Pay great attention to the drying of these, as they are liable to shrink. Wooden blocks of different sizes are to be had for stretching them ; they are put on to these while still wet, and allowed to remain until dry. A simpler block may be cut out of a piece of cardboard the exact size and shape required, and in some ways this is even better than wood, as in this case pins can be put through the cardboard and the sock stretched in length as well as breadth (see Fig.). Failing to get either of these, 94 The Art of Laundry Work. pin the socks out to their proper shape on a covered table or board. Knitted Jackets and Drawers. For the washing of these, see p. 57. When drying them, see that they are pulled out to a proper shape before hanging up. If they are not very thick, it is almost better to pin them out on a covered table or floor, and allow them to remain there until dry. Wincey and Serge Dresses. These are both washed in the same way. Shake well before washing to free them from all superfluous dust. Soak them in warm water with a little ammonia, and let them remain from twenty to thirty minutes. This softens them and makes them easier to wash. Wring them out and wash in the same way as flannels (see p. 57). Pay particular attention to the most soiled parts. Rinse thoroughly, adding a little blue to the last rinsing water for white or blue serge. Hang up to dry with the wrong side out, and if drying indoors turn and shake occasionally during the process. When nearly dry, iron with a cool iron. Wincey especially requires a good deal of pressure bestowed on it. Navy blue serge should be ironed on the wrong side only, it would not look well to glaze it. Smocks. Smocking must never be pressed with the iron, but only steamed. Iron the rest of the garment first, leaving the smocking to do last. It takes two people to steam it. Let a moderately hot iron be held with Children's Clothes, 95 the bottom upwards by one, while a second holds the smocking firmly on the top of it, and draws it slowly over the surface of the iron until it becomes quite dry. The heading round the top of the smocking should be ironed with a small iron, and if it is a starched material, afterwards goffered. Boys' Sailor Suits. These require very careful washing. They are as a rule made of drill or jean, materials which are both very hard to wash. Being of a firm texture, they will stand a good deal of rubbing and a brush on the washing-board. They may be boiled after washing if there is no fear of any colour in them running. After rinsing, starch in clear starch while still wet. The starch must not be too stiff, as the material itself is of a stiff nature. Wring well, and dry slightly before ironing. Be careful to choose a very clean place for drying, and dry with the wrong side out. To iron the trousers, turn them on the right side, smooth them out on the table, with the waist at your left hand side and the front uppermost. Iron the fronts of the two legs first, but not too dry ; turn over and iron the back, then iron over the fronts again. Iron bands and hems on the wrong side, and press hard with the iron to get a good gloss. In ironing the jacket, commence with the collar, and if this is of navy blue or scarlet, iron it on the wrong side only, or on the right with something laid over it ; it should not be glossed. Next iron the sleeves on the right side, first the upper and then the under half. In doing the jacket itself, keep the neck at your left hand side ; commence with the piece nearest to you, 96 The Art of Laundry Work. and iron from one end to the other, smoothing out each piece as you go along; then finish off at the shoulders, round armholes, and the inside of the jacket. Blue linen suits must not be polished with the iron, but either ironed entirely on the wrong side, or ironed with something over the material. Silk Dresses, Pinafores, and Veils. For the washing of these, see p. 75. After a silk dress is wrung, starch any lace there may be on it in very thin starch, and hang it up to dry for a short time. Iron the lace first on the wrong side, then any linings or double parts on the wrong side. Next iron the sleeves with a small iron, first the upper and then the under part, ironing well into the gathers. If the dress is smocked, leave the smocking to the last (see p. 94). If there is a bodice, iron it before doing the skirt. Do the skirt either on the skirt-board or by laying it double on the table, and ironing first the front and then the back. If the silk is very wet in parts, iron with something over it to begin with, to prevent the iron sticking to and scorching it. When the silk is embroidered, press out the embroidery on the wrong side after the silk is ironed. It is not necessary to goffer the lace on a silk dress, as it looks better falling softly. Goffering would be out of place unless merely for just a narrow frilling on the neck. Silk Pinafores are ironed in the same way as others (see p. 92). The lace on them may be slightly starched, but do not goffer it. Silk Veils should be pinned out on a covered table or board while still wet, and allowed to remain until dry. If they feel in the least degree stiff after they Children's ClotJies. 97 are removed, rub gently with the ringers to soften the silk again. Blankets. These being small may be washed in the same way as white flannels (see p. 57). Dry in the open air if possible, and then air before the fire. Eider-Downs. Small eider-downs for cribs and bassinettes are very easily washed. For the washing of them, see p. 63. Be careful when drying to shake them frequently, and rub well between the hands to keep the down soft. Dry thoroughly. To Wash a Sponge. An infant's sponge is so frequently rubbed with soap that it requires regular washing. As a rule it will be sufficient to squeeze it well in warm water with a little coarse salt in it, and then in plain warm water. If this fails, add a teaspoonful of borax to one pint of warm water, and squeeze the sponge in it, letting it soak if necessary. A little vinegar or ammonia may be used instead of borax ; in all cases give the sponge a final rinsing in plain warm water. Never wring a sponge, as it breaks the fibres and spoils its elasticity. To Wash a Hair-Brush. If there are any hairs in the brush, remove them first. Dissolve some borax in very hot water, allowing one dessertspoonful to one quart, and put the water into a basin. Dip the brush, bristles downwards, into this. 98 The Art of Laundry Work. dipping it in and out until it looks quite clean. Keep the back and handle as free from the water as possible. Rinse in cold water, shake well, and wipe the handle and back with a towel. Do not dry the bristles, as it softens them. Set the brush in the sun or near the fire to dry. Soda may be used instead of borax for other brushes, but not for infants'. The use of soap softens brushes. To Wash a Mackintosh. Pieces of mackintosh, and mackintosh aprons which are used in the nursery, ought to be washed occasion- ally. First wash over with warm water in which a little soda has been dissolved, but do not use any soap. Then sponge over with plain warm water, -and rub with a cloth. Hang up outside, or at some distance from the fire, until quite dry. Shirts, Polishing, &c. 99 CHAPTER XL COLLARS, CUFFS, SHIRTS, AND POLISHING. Collars and Cuffs : Importance of having them well Washed and Dried. THESE should always be well soaked before being washed, to loosen the old starch and make them more easily washed. When washing, give them a firm brushing on the washing-board. Brush them first on one side and then on the other, paying particular attention to the edges and buttonholes. Dip them occasionally into the water while washing them. Give them two hot soapy waters before they are boiled, and be most particular about the rinsing. Collars especi- ally are so liable to be stained with the heat of the neck, that unless they are thoroughly washed and rinsed, when they reach the stage of being ironed the heat of the iron will at once show up any faulty work. A little extra trouble taken in the washing will save much future disappointment. After blueing (see p. 14), wring them well, fasten them together with a piece of tape or string, and hang them up to dry. Be careful to dry in a very clean place, and dry thoroughly before attempting to starch. Unless they are quite dry, they will not take in the starch properly, and will be limp when finished. ioo The Art of Laundry Work. How to Starch Collars and Cuffs. Before commencing this process, have everything at hand which you will be likely to require. Never starch on the top of the sheet on which you are going to iron, as drops of starch would stain the sheet and spoil it for after-use, but do it on a clean uncovered table. The collars and cuffs being well dried, have them lying in a clean dry towel, and place them at your left hand side ; put a clean plate to lay them on after starching at your right hand side, and have a basin of clean cold water, and another of well made cold-water starch, in the middle. Mix the starch well up from the foot of the basin ; put into it several of the collars and cuffs, or as many as the starch will cover easily at one time, and let the starch soak well through them. Squeeze them with the hands in the starch, and then wring as dry as possible and lay them on the plate, and do the others in the same way. They must not be put through the wringing machine, or too much of the starch would be taken out. If there is a habit-shirt on the collar, roll up and dip it into cold water before starching, to prevent it becoming too stiff, and so make it more comfort- able for wear. Protect the collar itself well from the water, and then put the whole thing into the starch. Do not use the starch when it gets very nearly to the foot of the basin, but always have a plentiful supply to work with, so that it may not cake on the articles. When all are starched, put the basins of starch and water out of your way, and spread out the towel on the table to be ready for the collars and cuffs. Shirts, Polishing, &*c. 101 Take a collar or cuff at a time ; rub it between the hands to get the starch well through the different folds of linen, draw out straight, and lay smoothly on the towel. Commence a few inches from the top of the towel, so that there is a dry piece to double over. Then proceed with the others in the same way ; lay them close together on the towel, but do not put one on the top of the other. Roll the towel up as you get it filled, and when you come to the end double it across and beat it well between the hands. Let them lie for half-an-hour at least before ironing, but do not let them get too dry. Keep them in a cool place and well covered. Method of Ironing. (i.) Cuffs. Do not take out more than one cuff or collar from the towel at one time, and keep the others well covered. If they get dry, they will not iron pro- perly, and it is impossible to damp them over as you do clear starched articles, as it would take out too much of the starch. Spread the cuff out on the table with the wrong side uppermost, and smooth away all wrinkles with a paper knife. If there is any extra fulness on the wrong side, push it over to the edges, where it will not be seen. Iron once or twice across on the wrong side until slightly dry, then turn to the right. See that it is quite smooth before putting the iron down on it ; iron it well, and then go back again to the wrong side. Iron slowly at first, until the cuff gets pretty dry and smooth ; then iron more and more quickly backwards and forwards, until the cuff is quite dry and the surface glossy. Iron principally on the right side, as it is there you wish most gloss, but iron 102 The Art of Laundry Work. the wrong side smooth enough to prevent it feeling rough to the skin. Lift the cuff occasionally when ironing to let the steam escape, and dry the sheet underneath it with the iron before laying it down again. Next turn into shape, unless the cuff has to be polished with the polishing iron, when it may be left flat and stood up on end, or so that the air may dry it, until the others are finished and you are ready for polishing. Turn them with the back or side of the iron. Commence with the end lying nearest to you on the table ; iron away from you, taking hold of the end of the cuff, and following the iron with the left hand. When you come to the other end, give the cuff a smart pull out from underneath the iron, at the same time curling it round, and repeat the process. Then do the same with the other end of the cuff, now drawing the iron towards you. The whole process should be done quickly. After turning, string the cuffs together, or hang them on a rail, and let them dry in a warm place. Turned-over Cuffs. When these will not lie flat on the table to iron, do the narrow band at the top first, ironing it until quite dry. Then stand the band up, and make the cuff itself lie smoothly on the table. Iron it in the ordinary way, and, before turning, double the band over with the fingers. (2.) Collars. These are ironed in very much the same way as cuffs, first on the wrong and then on the right side. When there are points to be turned down, be careful to iron them most on the wrong side of the collar, as that will be the side which will show most. When turning them down, make a mark first with the Shirts, Polishing, &c. 103 side of the iron, on the right side of the collar, then press down with the fingers. Do not iron down with the iron, as it is apt to cut the linen. Then turn the collar. When the whole collar is turned over, be careful to notice which is the right side before be- ginning to iron. Lift up any tabs there may be on the collars ; dry underneath them with the iron, and then iron down again. Eton Collars. Iron the band first. Keep it turned towards you, and iron on both sides until dry, being careful not to iron the collar itself so as to dry it. Then stand the band up, and make the collar lie flat on the table. Iron round it slowly first on the wrong side, keeping the band well stretched to pre- vent any creases where they are joined. Do not iron too long on the wrong side, or the right will become so dry that it will be impossible to iron it smoothly. Turn, and iron the right side until dry ; smooth, and then turn with the fingers. A Front. Iron the neck-band first on both sides until dry, or if there is a collar attached, finish it off before commencing the front. Iron the front on the right side only, and it is not necessary to iron the wrong ; and if there is any fulness, smooth it away towards the sides before commencing to iron. Stretch the neck-band well when ironing towards the neck, to prevent creases. Then work the iron quickly up and down the front to get a good gloss. For polishing of cuffs and collars, &c., see p. in. How to Starch and Iron a Gentleman's White Shirt. Have the shirt perfectly dry, and on the wrong side. Do not turn it until you are going to begin to iron it. 104 The Art of Laundry Work. Have ready at hand a basin of cold water, another with cold-water starch, a clean towel, and a piece of rag to use as a rubber. Commence with the cuffs ; place them evenly together, and gather them up in the left hand. With the right hand wet the cotton part just above the cuffs ; see that the water goes well through, and be careful that no drops go on the cuffs themselves. Keep them well protected with the left hand. The object of this is to prevent the cotton part getting stiffened with any starch that may get on it. Then dip the cuffs into the starch, and squeeze the starch well through them. Starch right up to the top of the cuffs, but do not let the starch go any further. Wring out tightly, and rub with the hands in the same way as other cuffs. Next starch the front. Place the two halves of it evenly together, and gather them up in the hands, commencing at the back of the neck-band, and gather- ing down to the foot of the front. Wet the cotton part down the sides of the front with the right hand, in the same way and for the same reason as the cotton part above the cuffs is wet. Protect the fronts well with the left hand to prevent their getting wet. Then dip the fronts into the starch ; squeeze the starch well through them up to the edges, and not beyond. Oc- casionally the neck-band is preferred soft ; in that case it must be kept out of the starch. Wring out, and rub between the hands. If the shirt fastens down the back, double the front down the centre, and starch it in the same way. After starching, spread the shirt out on the table with the front uppermost and the neck towards you. Smooth out the front, and give it a light rub over with Shirts, Polishing, &c. 105 a clean dry cloth or rubber. Fold it double from you, so that the front is inside and the neck away from you. Place the sleeves across the back, smoothing out the cuffs, and double the shirt from you again so that the sleeves are inside. As it is now folded, sprinkle it well with water on both sides, roll tightly up from one end to the other, and keep covered over until it has to be ironed. A shirt should lie for half-an-hour at least before being ironed, but must not be allowed to become too dry. To Iron a Shirt. First turn the shirt on to the right side, and place it on the table with the front uppermost and the neck towards you. Turn the yoke forwards, so that it lies flat on the top of the back of the shirt, and iron the yoke first on the right side ; then turn it back, slip the iron inside, and iron it on the wrong. Next iron the neck-band, first on the wrong and then on the right, ironing it until quite dry. Finish it off well, particularly at the button-holes, and be careful not to iron down on to the front of the shirt. When these are done, fold the shirt down the centre of the back, keeping the front apart from it. Iron the back on both sides, always keeping the neck at your left hand side. Open out, so that the whole of the back lies uppermost on the table, and iron round the back of the armholes, and this finishes the back. Next fold the shirt double lengthways, with the fronts inside; lay it on the table with the neck from you and the sleeves at the right hand side. This way of folding prevents the breast becoming dry while the sleeves are being ironed. Throw back the upper sleeve, and commence with the under one. Iron the cuff first on the wrong and then on the right, in H io6 The Art of Laundry Work. the same way as other cuffs, then run the iron up in- side the cuff and iron the thick part over the drawings. Iron also the wrong side of the hems at the opening of the sleeve, and turn the cuffs into shape. Smooth out the sleeve, and iron first on one side, ironing well into pleats or gathers at the top and bottom, and put a pleat into the sleeve itself if necessary. Turn down the shirt at the neck so that you can iron the other side of the sleeve, but do not change the position of the shirt itself. Do the second side in the same way as the first, and turn that sleeve underneath out of the way while you do the second sleeve. When both are finished, place the shirt on the table with the front uppermost and the neck at your left hand side. Ar- range the back in pleats, and press them down with the iron. Then iron the breast of the shirt ; slip a shirt board up in between the back and the front, without disarranging the pjeats down the back. Stretch the upper half of the breast on to the board first, drawing the other half as much out of the way as possible. Tuck the cotton part of the front under- neath the board, so as to keep the breast firm. Smooth away all wrinkles on the breast with a paper- knife, pushing any fulness over towards the sides. Hold the neck firmly with the left hand, iron slowly up the centre, then gradually towards the sides. As it becomes smooth, iron up and down more quickly, lifting the breast occasionally to let the steam escape. Keep stretching it well with the left hand, to prevent any wrinkles forming round the collar. Do the other side in the same way, and then hold both firmly to- gether, and iron quickly and firmly up and down the breast to get a good gloss. Shirts, Polishing, 107 When the shirt is not open down the front, iron the breast of it in much the same manner, first the one half and then the other. When the breast is finished, slip out the shirt-board and arrange the cotton part of the front smoothly on the top of the back, putting a pleat down the centre where required. Damp it over if it has become dry, and then iron it smoothly. If the shirt has to be polished with the polishing iron, do so now; but if not, fold it. To Fold a Shirt. First put a pin in the neck to keep the two sides together, then turn it over so that the back is uppermost and the neck at your left hand side. Turn the sleeves down the sides of the back (Fig. i), noticing that both are turned in from exactly the same place on both sides. Turn over them a small piece from the sides by dotted line i (Fig. a) ; io8 The Art of Laundry Work. then turn over again from dotted line 2 (Fig. a), so that both sides meet down the centre of the back. Stretch them rather tightly, so that the front will have a curved look, and pin them firmly together (Fig. b). Hang up to air, and then fold so that the front only shows (Fig. c). Note. Sometimes a shirt is folded so that the cuffs show at the top of the neck. In this case turn down the sleeves to begin with as in Fig. i, then turn them upwards so that both cuffs meet at the neck and show just above it. Pin them in position, and continue the folding the same as before. A Lady's Shirt. For the washing of this, see Prints, p. 78. After being thoroughly rinsed, put it through rather thin clear starch ; wring well, and hang up to dry. This gives a slight stiffness to the bodice part of the shirt. When quite dry, starch the cuffs and collar in cold- water starch, being careful to wet previously the material just above the cuffs and below the collar to prevent it getting stiff with the starch. If there is a stiff front, starch it in the same way as a gentleman's shirt ; or if there is a plain band down the front, and it is liked stiff, dip it into the cold-water starch. Rub the starched pieces between the hands to get the starch thoroughly through them, then lay the shirt on the table with the front uppermost and the neck towards you. Smooth out, and give the starched parts a light rub over with a clean rubber. Double the shirt from you, and lay the sleeves across the back. Sprinkle the parts that are dry with cold water, and roll tightly up. Let it lie, rolled up in a Shirts, Polishing, &c. 109 towel, for half-an-hour at least before ironing, but do not let it become too dry. To iron //, commence with the collar ; keep it turned towards you, and iron it first on the wrong side and then on the right, in the ordinary way. Then iron the yoke ; turn it down so that it lies flat on the top of the back, and you can get it all done at one time. Iron on the right side, then turn backwards and iron on the wrong. Next iron the sleeves ; take one at a time, and finish it off before commencing the second. Iron the cuff first on the wrong and then on the right side, keeping it well stretched to prevent any wrinkles forming. When finished, run the iron up inside the sleeve to dry the thick part over the drawings, and do the hems on the wrong side. Lay out the sleeve as smoothly as possible, with the front lying upper- most, and iron it first. Slip your hand inside occa- sionally to prevent the two sides from sticking together and causing creases. Iron well into the gathers or pleats at the cuff, and as far up towards the top as you can. Turn over and iron the second side, damping it down first if it has become too dry. Then finish off the top of the sleeve, ironing well into the gathers, and creasing it as little as possible. Do the second sleeve in the same way. To iron the bodice, place the shirt on the table with the neck at your left hand side. Commence with the front nearest to you ; smooth it out, and iron it well, running the iron well up into the gathers. Next iron the back and then the other front. Smooth out each piece as you go along, and damp down when necessary. Finish off the pieces round the armholes ; iron the hems on the wrong side, and also any strings. Turn the cuffs and collars into no The Art of Laundry Work. shape, and hang the shirt up to air. When the front is stiff, it will require a little more ironing, but do this in the same order. If there is a frill down the front, iron it before the bodice, and goffer or crimp it last. To fold the shirt, first pin the two sides together at the neck ; lay the sleeves down the sides of the back the same as in a gentleman's shirt (Fig. i) ; fold them upwards again so that the cuffs show above the neck, and pin them into position. Fold over the sides so that they meet down the centre, and pin them to- gether. Fold quite loosely; any pressing would crush the sleeves. If the starched parts are liked polished, do the polishing before the cuffs and collars are turned into shape. A White Waistcoat. After washing this, and while it is still wet, put it through thin hot-water starch, and hang it up to dry. The back of the waistcoat is not starched again, so that this just gives it a slight stiffness. When quite dry, starch the fronts in cold-water starch. The starch used must just be half its usual stiffness (see p. 115), and the sides of the fronts must be wet well with cold water to prevent the starch going on to the back. Wring out very tightly, and roll up, smoothing it out well, and let it lie wrapped up in a towel for some time before ironing it. Iron it all over, on the wrong side first, then on the right. If the pockets are loose, draw them out, iron them, and then push them in again. Never let the pockets be stuck together with starch; in any case, slip the point of the iron down inside to dry them. Shirfs, Polishing, &>c. 1 1 1 Keep the neck of the waistcoat always at your left hand side when ironing, and commence with the part that lies nearest to you. Iron any straps there may be on the back, and hang up to air. The waistcoat may afterwards be polished if wished. Note. If this method of starching is found to be too stiff, use hot-water starch only. Much depends upon individual taste. Polishing. When about to polish, have ready at hand a polish- ing board, a basin of cold water, a piece of soft rag, and a well-heated polishing iron. Let everything be particularly clean and free from dust. To polish cuffs, take one at a time ; place it flat on the polishing board, dip the clean rag into the cold water, and then lightly wet the surface of the cuff. On no account must it be made too wet, or it will be apt to blister ; and be careful that no drops of water fall on it. Hold the cuff in position with the left hand, and run the polishing iron up and down it with the right. There are different kinds of polishing irons ; the one like diagram on p. 22 is to be recommended. It is of a good weight, and has a rounded surface at the one end only. The opposite end is held up while in use, and the iron is swung backwards and forwards from the wrist, the rounded surface doing the polish- ing. Other kinds are to be had which are held flat while in use, and are worked quickly backwards and forwards on the surface to be polished. Polishing at first gives the linen a streaky appear- ance, but it must be continued until the surface is ii2 The Art of Laundry Work. evenly glossed all over. The iron must be changed when it cools. When all the cuffs are polished, turn them into shape. Polish collars in the same way, only be particular that you polish the proper side of those that are turned down, or have turned-down points. In polishing a shirt, slip up the polishing board with- out crushing either the front or the back. Polish the breast first, working the iron up and down the length of it, and not across. In all cases remember to wet the surface slightly before polishing. When the breast is finished, draw the board gently out, lay it across the shirt, place the cuffs on it, and polish them. Turn the cuffs into shape, and fold the shirt (see p. 107). Different kinds of glazes are to be had for polishing linen, which are used instead of the polishing iron. They do not of course give such a high gloss, but by many people are preferred. Directions for using them are generally given with the different kinds. Some are added to the starch, while others are in a liquid form and are rubbed on the surface of the linen when ironing. Polishing irons should be treated with great care. Their surface is made of polished steel, and if it once gets roughened it will not do such good work. Making of Starch^ 6-r. 1 1 3 CHAPTER XII. MAKING OF STARCH, REMOVAL OF STAINS, AND VARIOUS RECIPES. Different Kinds of Starch. STARCHES are derived from different grains, such as wheat, rice, arrowroot, maize, or Indian corn, sago, tapioca, &c., also from potatoes. The stiffening and other qualities of starch vary so much according to the substance from which it is derived, that it is a matter of great importance to choose a good starch. Those most commonly used are the wheat and rice starches. Some of the others are practically little known. Rice starch is used as a substitute for wheat starch, for all finer purposes. It has high stiffening pro- perties, is very soluble, and produces the same results as wheat starch. It is frequently mixed with potato or maize starch for the sake of economy. Maize alone produces rather a coarse starch, and although it has good stiffening power, it produces a rough surface, unless some glaze is added. Both sago and tapioca give very fine starches. Starches are so frequently adulterated with common flour, plaster, and other useless ingredients, and it is often so difficult to detect adulteration, that almost the only safe precaution to take is to buy starch from H4 The Art of Laundry Work. a good firm. Starch ought to be stored away in a dry place. If it becomes damp, it will cake. How to make Clear or Hot- Water Starch. There are no definite quantities for the making of this starch. Everything depends upon the number of articles to be starched and the stiffness required. Experience alone can teach the exact quantities to use. For a moderate quantity, take say two tablespoonfuls of dry starch, put it into a clean basin, and add to it enough cold water to make a thick paste. Work this with the back of a wooden spoon until quite smooth and free from lumps. Have a kettle of fast boiling water on the fire, take the basin of starch to it, and let a second person pour the boiling water slowly in. Keep stirring all the time until the starch turns clear and transparent, when it is said to be made. The kettle should not be taken from the fire, but kept fast boiling all the time. The water used ought to be soft and colourless. Should the starch not become clear, it will show that either the water in the kettle has not been boiling, or too much cold water has been used in the first mixing. The mistake can, however, be remedied by turning the starch into a clean lined pan, and stirring it over the fire until it boils and turns clear. In fact, some people prefer always to boil the starch, and say that it brings out its stiffening qualities to the best advantage. If the starch is of a yellow hue, a little blue may be added to it. A little wax is frequently added to hot starch to make the articles starched iron more Making of Starch^ &c. 115 smoothly, but if the iron itself is waxed as before described (see page 24) this is not necessary. The starch should be stirred for a short time after mixing, to prevent a skin forming on the top of it, and should be kept covered when not in use. It may be used in its present condition for making articles very stiff, or can be diluted to suit laces and muslins. For diluting purposes the water need not necessarily be boiling. It is sometimes more con- venient to use it cold, as it makes the starch of a more comfortable heat to use. Do not make more of this starch than will be required at one time. It will keep for a day or two, but is better when used fresh. Cold-Water Starch. The usual proportions are : 2 oz. cold-water starch (rice starch preferred). 3 gills of cold water. i teaspoonful turpentine. \ teaspoonful powdered borax, or a piece the size of a small nut of rock borax. These proportions may vary slightly according to the starch used. Mix the starch with the cold water, using the fingers to work out the lumps. Cover the basin over, and let the starch soak over night at least. It is much better if it can soak for several days ; even although it may turn slightly sour, it will be none the worse, in fact almost better. The longer it can soak, the less apt it is to cake on to the linen. Care must be taken to keep it very clean and free from dust. When about to use it, mix it up again, add the 1 1 6 The Art of Laundry Work. turpentine, dissolve the borax in a little boiling water ; if it is rock borax, dissolve it in a saucepan over the fire and add it. If the borax is left undissolved, it will appear afterwards in shiny patches on the linen. Use the best quality of turpentine, or it will smell strongly. The turpentine and borax are added to give a gloss, and to make the iron run more smoothly. The starch is then ready for use, but must be kept well mixed up from the foot of the basin. There is no harm in making more of this starch than is required, as it will keep from one week to another. It must be covered over, and when about to use it again, if the water on the top looks dirty, pour it off. The starch itself, which will have sunk to the foot of the basin, wipe free from dust, and add the same amount of clean water as before. Add also a little more borax and turpentine, about half as much as before. Coloured Starches. These are sometimes used for doing up curtains and lace, &c. Cream starch, which can be bought ready prepared, may be used, and is made in the same way as hot- water starch. Special care must be taken when breaking it with cold water, as if any lumps are left in they will show up afterwards as yellow spots. If there is any fear of the starch not being perfectly smooth, it is safer to strain it. Used by itself, this starch produces a very deep yellow colour too deep for any ordinary purpose. It is best to mix it with some white starch. For a pale yellow colour, use one-fourth the quantity of cream starch to that of white ; or for a deeper tint, Making of Starch, &c. 117 use half quantities. Regulate the quantities accord- ing to the shade you wish. For an e"cru shade, colour the starch with coffee. Have some very strong clear coffee, and use this for mixing the starch with instead of water, then pour on boiling water until it turns clear. A duller shade, such as is seen in old laces, can be produced by using tea instead of coffee. If a delicate pink hue is wished, use a decoction of log- wood. Soap Jelly. Take as much soap as will be required, and cut it down in shreds with a knife. Put it into a saucepan, and just cover it with cold or hot water. Allow the soap to melt slowly over the fire until it is quite clear and without lumps. Let it melt slowly, as boiling wastes it. Do not fill the pan too full, as soap is very much inclined to boil over. The soap may be put into a jar instead of a saucepan, and melted in the oven. Any ends of soap may be used up in this way. It is better to make soap jelly freshly each week, as it loses its strength if kept many days. Remember that soap will taste very strongly anything with which it comes in contact, so that the knife and board on which it is cut, also the saucepan in which it is melted, ought to be kept for that pur- pose only. Bran Water. Bran is the husk or skin of wheat which has been sifted from the flour. It softens water to a large ex- tent, it clears and brightens colours, and also has a slight stiffening property. 1 1 8 The Art of Laundry Work. Take half a pint, or one breakfast-cupful of bran, put it into a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, bring it slowly to the boil, being careful it does not boil over, and simmer slowly from ten to twenty minutes. Strain through a fine strainer or piece of muslin, add to it other two quarts of water, either cold or hot, and it is ready for using. A second and even a third water may be taken off the bran in the same way. The bran may be sewn into a muslin bag, and all trouble of straining will be saved. The bag must be of a good size. Prepared Tea for Black Lace. Take one dessertspoonful of dry tea, one teaspoon- ful of gum arabic, and one pint of boiling water. Put all these into a saucepan, and simmer slowly over the fire until the gum arabic is dissolved and the tea a good black colour. Stir occasionally to prevent the gum sticking to the foot of the pan, and strain through muslin before using. To Remove Stains. Mildew. This is a species of fungus of which there are several varieties. It often attacks and stains linen or cotton, and is caused by the material being laid away damp. It is one of the most obstinate stains to remove, and often impossible without injury to the fabric. Stretch the stained part over a hard firm surface, and rub off as much as will come with a piece of soft dry rag. Rub in a little salt, and try if the juice of a Making of Starch, 6r. 119 lemon will take it out. Failing this, make a paste of French chalk and water, spread it on the stained part, and let it dry slowly, if possible in the sun. Repeat the process if necessary, and then rinse well. Rust or Iron- Mould. Take a small basin of boiling water, dip the stained part into it, and then stretch tightly over the basin. Sprinkle with salts of sorrel, and rub it well into the stain ; use a piece of rag or smooth stick to do this, as salts of sorrel is most poisonous, and might be in- jurious to the fingers. Allow it to steam for a short time with the salts on it, when the stain should en- tirely disappear. Ink. When ink stains are fresh, they may be removed by dipping the stained part into buttermilk and letting it soak for some time, then wash out thoroughly. If the ink has been in for some time, try salts of sorrel in the same way as for iron-mould ; and failing this, oxalic acid well rubbed into the part, or chloride of lime (see p. 120). Wine and Fruit. Spread the stained part over a basin, rub well with common salt, and pour boiling water through to avoid spreading the mark. If the stain is still persistent, try salts of sorrel. If a fruit stain is left in for any length of time, it is most difficult to remove. It is sometimes better to let it wear out gradually ; but if it must be removed, use oxalic acid well rubbed into the part, or chloride of lime (see p. 120). 120 The Art of Laundry Work. Tea and Coffee. Spread the stained part over a basin, rub well with powdered borax, and pour boiling water through. Then let the article soak. Sugar and Syrup. Wash the stained part with warm water without soap, then rub with ammonia diluted with warm water. Paint. When fresh, remove with turpentine well rubbed in. If it has become dry, mix a little ammonia with the turpentine. When the stain is on a fabric of which the colour is apt to be destroyed, moisten first with a little oil, and then remove with turpentine or ether. Grease. This may generally be removed by soaking the article in cold water with a little borax in it. Machine grease can be removed from coloured articles with ether without leaving any mark. Use of Chloride of Lime and Sanitas. Chloride of lime will remove almost any stain, but should never be resorted to except as a last resource. Unless used with care, it is most destructive, and should never be put into the hands of an ignorant person. It should be prepared in the following manner : Put \ Ib. chloride of lime into a basin, and break it to a smooth paste with a little cold water, then add as much cold water as will fill a quart bottle, about i \ pints ; stir the lime well up, and let it stand covered Making of Starch, drv. 121 over for a day or two, stirring it occasionally. Then let it settle ; skim it well, and pour the clear liquid off the top. Strain this into a quart bottle, and keep it tightly corked. To remove stains, wet a rag with this solution and apply it to the part. When anything is very much stained all over, it is best to soak it in cold water with some of this preparation of chloride of lime added to it. Make the water smell just slightly with the lime. This will also serve for bleaching things when they have become a bad colour. Sanitas is frequently used now for removing ink, fruit, and wine stains on white cotton goods. Care of Chemicals. Most of the chemicals used for removing stains are poisonous, therefore they ought to be labelled as such and kept in a safe place. After using a chemical to remove a stain, always rinse the article, as most are liable to rot the fabric. Printed at THE DARIEN PRESS, Edinburgh. I ADVERTISEMENTS. SNOW WHITE LINEN Can sometimes be obtained by Grass Bleaching when the weather is clear, and there is no smoke or soot; but it can always be had in all seasons, and at all times, by using PAROZONE BLEACH, The Safest, Cheapest, and Cleanest Bleach ever intro- duced for Laundry purposes. Parozone removes quickly and easily all Tea, Coffee, Fruit, and Wine stains. PEARL GLAZE Is a Linen Gloss in quite a new form. Gives a splendid gloss on Cuffs, Collars, and Shirts with very little ironing. Send for Samples (free) of the above articles to THE PAROZONE COMPANY Ltd. ii BOTH WELL STREET, GLASGOW. W. SUMMERSCALES & SONS LTD., Laundry, Domestic, and General Engineers, PHCENIX FOUNDRIES, KEIOHLEY. Plans and Estimates for the complete equipment of Public or Private Laundries furnished free on application. Write for Catalogue and Price List. Medal Awarded JAMES RITCHIE, 3Laun&n? Engineer, Patentee and Manufacturer of Collar, Cuff, & Shirt Ironing Machines, Gas Irons, Washing, Wringing, Mangling, & Starching Machines. 48 NORTH FREDERICK STREET, GLASGOW. GARDINER'S EXTRACT OF SOAP. Reasons why you should use Gardiner's Extract of Soap. IT IS THE BEST. 1. Because it is the best for all cleaning purposes. Making clothes pure and sweet. 2. Because it is the best way to make washing easy, life pleasant, and home happy. 3. Because it is the best disinfectant, and therefore prevents sickness and disease. 4. Because it is the best of all Soap Powders, and gains golden opinions wherever used. 5. Because it is the best of all Washing- Powder, and is a British Manufacture. 6. Because it is the best value for your money, both in quantity and quality. 7. Because it is the best answer to the great question : " What shall we do with our Girls?" "Learn them to be good, tidy, and bright housekeepers, making home sweet and happy by using GARDINER'S EXTRACT OF SOAP. The Proprietors of GARDINER'S EXTRACT OF SOAP AND "THE GLEBE" AMMONIA WASHING POWDER have pleasure in requesting you to give their Manufactures a trial, and are confident the result will be a continuance of your esteemed support. Samples Free. Ask your Grocer for one. i. ' 5 O f Gardiner's Extract of Soap, or " The Glebe " Ammonia Washing Powder, made use of by us for Advertising purposes. Suggestions and recommendations (in any form) must be sent to us accompanied by one or more empty packets. T, W, & G. GARDINER, 94 Glebe Street, GLASGOW. GARDINER'S LIQUID "AMMONIA." ADVERTISEMENTS. 'ACME" SIDE-WEIGHT MANGLE. With Three Sycamore Wood Rollers. To be had through all Ironmongers. This is a very strong and well-made Machine, suitable for family use. It is fitted with best Seasoned Rollers. With Top Lignum Vitae Roller, it is a Machine we have every confidence will give satisfaction. ACME MACHINE CO., Henrietta Street, Glasgow. A 000115160 ADVERTISEMENTS. "ACME" CLOTHES WRINGERS ARE THE BEST. To be had through all Ironmongers. We cover the Spindles of these Machines with Best Indiarubber Only, which we vulcanise direct on the Iron by a special process, without the use of Vulcanite. All Rollers covered in this way have Four Special Points of Excellence : ist, GREATER THICKNESS OF RUBBER. 2nd, GREATER ELASTICITY OF ROLLER. 3rd, GREATER DURABILITY. 4th, GREATER WRINGING POWER. We guarantee all our Rollers to be of Solid WMte Rubber through- out, and that the Rubber will not become loose or slip on the Spindles. All our Rollers branded Without which none are genuine. SS REPAIRS. We are now in a much better position than hitherto for undertaking all kinds of REPAIRS in our own line, of whatever make, and more particularly the Re-covering of Rubber Rollers, which forms a SPECIAL BRANCH of our Business, and we are the only manufacturers in Europe who undertake this work in their own Factory. ACME MACHINE COMPANY, GLASGOW.