y\NDSCAPE ar: 3{3vGA>IO ( Ac o J *^w iP^^F Gardone \X / ^ ^/'^ Wj^^ . ^ tifii-an^iol ; ro\t:go >^ r. ^jOTTlOV^Orj^ REGGIO Serceto A 1 nol Scajulicfno\ ^f [zzano Imolf Lojano r^ /. 'Carraxa C^^aWdi S^lassa T\^ "^lucca (^ \ ^^ _,^_r^ Jfej PISTOJA^^^ — JB9S.Loren.3M Sera ilarrnxii /^ ) FLORENC ?j\Aiyn.,Johix Miu'rav J.lberrurrle Street LANDSCA Lansleb r Gxiilesti ^rc. .\ILos V The Gift of Beatrix Farrand to the General Library University of California, Berkeley HANDBOOK TRAVELLERS IN NOETHERN ITALY. REEF POINT GARDENS LIBRARY LA The Editor of the Handbook for Northern Italy is very solicitous to be favoured with corrections of any mistakes and omissions which may be discovered by persons who have made use of the book. Those communi cations especially wi!l be welcomed which are founded upon personal knowledge, and accompanied by the name of the writer to authenticate them. Travellers willing to make such communications are requested to have the kindness to address them to the Editor of the Handbook, care of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. HANDBOOK [ FOR ;[ TRAVELLERS IN NORTHERN ITALY. COMPRISING : TUKIN, MILAN, PAYIA, CREMONA, THE ITALIAN LAKES, BERGAMO, BRESCIA, VERONA, MANTUA, VICENZA, PADUA, VENICE, FERRARA, BOLOGNA, RAVENNA, RIMINI, MODENA, PARMA, PIACENZA, GENOA, THE RIVIERA, AND THE INTERMEDIATE TOWNS AND ROUTES, CAKEFULLY KEVISED, WITH A TKAVELLIXG MAP AND NUMEROUS PLANS OF T0WN8. INFORMATION ABOUT HOTELS, ETC., WILL BE FOUND IN THE INDEX AX1> DIRECTge. Column. Line. PAVIA. 190 2 5 (paragraph 2). After ''¥ our IjSitm Doctors" rend ''MoYeWi assigns this to Giovenone, Ferrari's contemporary." POKTOGKUARO. 343 1 IG In the Museo Nazionale Concordiese at Portogruaro, there is an interesting collection of antiquities of the Colony Julia Concordia, a flourishing city in the time of the Romans, but now a poor village, situated about two kilometres from Portogruaro. TURIN. P. 18. Cavaliere Bracco, 5 Yia Garibaldi, a man of considerable learning in Greek, Roman, Egyptian, and Mediaeval antiquities, will be found a useful guide to the Museum of Antiquities. Page. Column. Line. VENICE. *:?! 1 14 (from foot of page). For "Murano" read "Burano." 277 1 8 i^or " Rialta " read " Rialto." CoL 2 (last paragraph). The Restoration of the Doge's Palace is complete. 28.5 Pozzi. Om?< "(20 c.).'' 294 Close to the Church of S. M. Gioriosa de' Frari is the Scuola Grande di S. Giovanni Evangelista, which is worth a visit. 29!) 1 17 iS. Giorgio degli Schiavoni. Ruskin has only described those of the pictures which are by Carpaccio. 310 2 13 For "in the large chapel on the S. side" read "over the altar." 311 1 Accademia delle Belle Arti. A new and improved catalogue was i.'sued in 189L. Col. 2. Sala XI. Accademia delle Belle Arti. The two drawings re.illy by Raphael in the so-called Raphael Sketch-book are studies for an ornamental bas-relief in that master's great fresco of the School of Athens. 312 1 15 (from foot of piige). Giovanni Bellini. The special attention of the traveller is drawn to the &mall allegorical paintings by this master; they are amcngot tiie tiutst of his works. 317 1 11 Museo Cioieo I. and II. The so-ca led Raphael Sketch- book is not here, but in the Accademia delle Belli Arti, Sala XL Line 13. For " Berberi " read " Bsuherliy VERONA. P. 237. The Chur''h of S. Lorenzo has been cleared of the modern stucco, and the inner walls are now interesting specimens of Lombard work; remains of fresco, some of early date, arc to be seen. A HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS IN NORTHERN ITALY. PAET I. PIEDMONT AND WESTERN LOMBARDY. Best Italian Time-table, "Indicatore Ufficiale," 1 fr. Less complete editions, 50 c. and 20 c. All published monthly. Roman mean time is kept at all the Stations — 41 min. faster than Paris, 50 than London. LIST OF ROUTES. Black type shows the Route in which places are described. Railway everywhere, unless otherwise specified. ROUTE PAGE 1. Paris to Turin, by the Mont Cenis Tunnel .... 2 2. Turin to Milan, by Vereelli, Novara, and Magenta . 25 3. Turin to Lanzo .... 33 4. Turin to Cuorgne ... 34 5. Turin to Aosta and Cour- mayeur, by Ivrea. — Rail and Carriage-road 6. Turin to Savona, by Bra, Cherasco, and Cava . . 7. Turin to Torre Pellice, by Airasca 8. Airasca to Saluzzo . 9. Turin to Nice, by Cuneo and the Col di Tenda. — Rail and Carriage-road . Carrii to Cuneo, by Mon- dovi Turin to Genoa, by Asti, Alessandria, and Kovi . 52 10. 11. 34 43 47 52 55 56 ROUTE. 1 12. Turin to Alessandria, by Cavallermaggiore and Alba 13. Alessandria to Savona, by Acqui and Dego . , 14. Alessandria to Luino, by Valenza, Mortara, and Novara 59 15. Asti to Mortara, by Casale . 6u 16. Vereelli to Alessandria, by Casale and Valenza . . 62 17. Novi to Ovada, by Basa- luzzo 62 18. Milan to Mortara, by Ab- biategrasso .... 63 19. Alessandria to Piacenza, by Tortona and Voghera . . 20. Novara to Varallo, by Bor- gosesia 21. Novara to Seregno, by Busto Arsizio and Saronno 7 1 63 67 N. Italy. Boute 1. — Paris to Turin. ROUTES. EOUTE 1. PARIS TO TURIN, BY THE MOXT CENIS TUNNEL. Routes. liles Stations. Modane 5 BardonneccMa 5 Susa 8 Beaulard 12 Oulx 16 Salbertrand 22 CMomonte 31 Bussoleno 5 Susa 38 S. Antonino 42 S. Ambrogio 44 Avigliana 47 Rosta 50 Alpignano 53 Collegno 59 Turin. . . 2, 3, 6, 7 500 m. ; Exp. daily in 17 to 21 hrs. Through ticket to Turin, 98 fr. 60 c. or 73 fr. 40 c, with the right to stop at any Stat, in France and at any six in Italy. Luggage can be registered throiigh. N.B. For a detailed description of the Route as far as the French frontier, see the Handbook for France. Paris. — P. L.M. Terminus, 20 Boule- vard- Diderot. The Lyons route is followed as far as 275 m. Macon Junct. Thence E. through Bourg and Airiberieu to 350 m. Culoz Junct. Here the line turns oif S; from that to Geneva, and proceeds through Aix les Bains and Cliamherij to 434 m. Modane (good Buffet). Gils- torn House. The examination of lug- gage is very cursory. British subjects are not required to produce passports. 35 to 42 min. halt, and change of carriages. Views on the Italian side generally on the left. On quitting the Stat, the Ely. makes a horseshoe curve of nearly 4 miles, round the old straggling village, and ascends rapidly one of the slopes of the Cottian Alps, passing through two tunnels, and looking down succes- sively on the village and station, until it reaches the so-called Mont Cenis Tunnel under the Col de Frejus. At its mouth a mountain of rubbish, extracted during the forma- tion of the Tunnel, forms an artificial terrace on the hillside. [The very ancient Mont Cenis Pass lies nearly 20 m. E., and is traversed by an excellent carriage-road, com- pleted in 1810. Being the lowest carriage-way across the Alps, it was much frequented. In 1867 an English company constructed a Rly. from St. Michel to Susa, on the Fell system, having, besides the usual pair of rails, a central rail, which was nipped upon the inclines by a pair of horizontal wheels attached to the under side of the engine. The hold of the hori- zontal wheels on the central rail could at any time be relaxed or applied at the will of the engine-driver. By this contrivance the trains were enabled safely to ascend and descend all the steep parts of the line, which rah for the inost part by the side of the car- riage-road. This railway was, how- ever, never very popular ; the receipts did not cover the working expenses ; and the Fell rails have been removed. The adventurous shareholders lost the whole of their capital, about 640,0007.] It seems that the first person who sug- gested the present tunnel was M. ]\J^ail of Bardounecchia, who in 1832 ascer- tained that from Fourneau, near Modane, to Bardonneccbia the distance was shorter than at any other known place of equal height in the Alps. He died Boiite 1. — Mont Cenia Tunnel, in 1850 ; but the Piedmontese Govern- ment adopted his scheme, and, after careful surveys, the work was begun on the N. side in Aug. 1857. The piercing of the mountain was completed on 25th Dec. 1870, after 13 years and 3 months' labour, and the tunnel was opened for traffic in Sept. 1871. The engineers were Signori Grandis, Grattoni, and Sommeiller, all Piedmontese. The bargain between the French and Italian Governments and the Railway Company of Northern Italy was that the Company should contribute 20 millions of francs towards the expenses ; that the French Government should pay 19 millions of francs if the work was completed in 20 years, reckoning from 1862 ; and that the Italian Government should meet the remainder of the cost. It was, however, further agreed that if the work were finished at an earlier date, France should pay 500,000 francs more for every year gained upon the 20 years. Now, as the period was shortened by 11 years, France had to pay an additional sum of five and a half millions of francs. If the completion of the tunnel had been delayed beyond the 20 years, then Italy would have had to pay 500,000 francs for every year in excess of that period. When the work commenced, it was not possible to say what its duration might be. A mass of very hard quartzite was encountered at one time, which threatened to delay the operations considerably, but luckily it proved to be only ^ m. thick. One of the chief difficulties was that, as the tunnel would be very deep below the surface of the Alps overhead, no shafts could be sunk, and the work could be carried on from the ends only. The pro- gress of the tunnel was very slow, until improved boring machines had been in- vented and perfected. These machines were worked by air compressed by means of water power. On the N. side a cut was made from the river Arc, leading water to work six overshot water-wheels. Each of these wheels worked two pumps which drove compressed air into a large number of receivers, shaped like long steam boilers. From these the com- pressed air was carried by an iron pipe up the face of the moimtain and into the tunnel. By means of this compressed air acting on pistons, about fifty iron rods on the principle of the jumper- chisel were set to work against the face of the rock. "When holes had been bored out by the chisels to a sufficient depth, j they were charged with gunpowder, and the machine was withdrawn, and the rock blasted. Workmen then cleared away the rubbish, and the process was repeated. As long as the boring machine was at work there was an ample supply of air, but while the rubbish was being cleared away no air came in. To supply air, therefore, a mountain stream with a good head of water was led to near the mouth of the tunnel, where it worked four enormous pistons in as many cylinders, by means of which the foul air was drawn from the tunnel. The borings from the N. and S. ends met accurately, although starting more than 7 miles apart, and working up different slopes. The tunnel was made perfectly straight, in order to avoid the risk of the proper direction being lost ; and short curved branches to the tunnel were made at each end, to connect with the line as made outside. The length of the timnel, with its curved branches, is 14,050 yards, or 8 miles all but 30 yds. The height above the sea of the N. end is 3942 ft. ; the S. end is higher by 438 ft. The N. portion of the tunnel is on an incline of 1 in 45, and for a short distance 1 in 34. The S. portion is on an incline in the opposite direction of 1 in 2000. The middle of the tunnel is thus about 15 ft. higher than the S. end. The tunnel is lined with brick or masonry throughout, and has a double line of rails, with a footpath on each side. The total cost was 3,000,000/., or 220/. a yard. The internal width of the base is 25 ft. 3^ in., its height varies from 241 ft. to 25^ ft., and the width of the rails is 4 ft. 8^ in. The highest point of the Gran Yallone, the ' hill through which it passes, is 9500 ft. The great mass of the rocks perforated were calcareous schists. f The passage of the tunnel occupies from the N. about 28 minutes, from the S. somewhat less. The carriages are well lighted, and the tunnel is f For further details on this gigantic v, ork, and on the railway emerging from it by the valley of the Dora Eiparia as far as I'urin, see the 'Guide au Tunnel du Mont Cenis,' by A. Covino, Turin, 1871, and Wht/wper's ' Scrambles among the Alps.' A series of the rocks pierced by the tunnel is to be seen in the Museum of the Academy of Sciences at Turin. B 2 Boute 1 . — Bardonnecchia — Svsa. furnisher! -with gas lainps. Beyond the S. end lies 5 m. (from Modane) BardonneccMa, in a bleak and dreary valley, -where patches of snoM' are often found. The miserable villatre (1000) lies i m. W. Mountain paths lead to Exilles by the Col du Vallonat ; to Modane by the Col de Frejus or Col de la Vallee Etroite, &c. The scenery is very wild, and there are 24 tunnels and galleries between this place and Russoleno ; two of them more than a mile long. The Ely. runs along the valley, hemmed in with high mountains, to 8 m. Beaulard, on the hill to the rt. The name is supposed to be derived from the Bellari, a tribe which in former times inhabited the Cottian Alps, and whose name is inscribed upon the "Roman arch at Susa. Fol- lowing the muddy Bardonnecchia torrent, which the "Rly. crosses at Savaux. we enter the valley and pass the torrent of the Dora Riparia, before reaching 12 m. Oulx (pronounced 01ft). This village (3500 ft.) "is one of the largest in the valley of the Dora, along which the diligence road ascends to the Col de Mont Genevre and to Brian(;on beyond the French frontier. The Rly. crosses the Dora by a lattice bridge, to follow the opposite bank of the torrent as far as 16 m. Salhertrand (3B00 ft.). Fine Church, early 16th cent. On the 1. rises the Ambin : on the rt. is the Col de I'Assiette, over which there is a Dath to Fonrriers, Fenesfrelles, and Perosn. Near S^albertrand a battle took place in 1689, between Henry Arnaud, the Vaudois leader, and the Marquis de Larrev, in which the Piedmontese eeneral was defeated, and the Valdese leader was thus able to regain his valleys over the Col de Sen. At Salhertrand a special engine is attached'for the steep descent to Bus- sol eno. The "scenery nowHDecomes very im- posing; the Rly. being carried along the face of a steep mountain high above the river. The line crosses the Dora, and enters a long tunnel. On emerging from this, a g-limpse is caught on the left of the village of Salhertrand, with its pasture some 500 ft. below : after this many tunnels are threaded, and the in- tervals afford but scanty glimpses of the valley. The view looking down upon the town and singular fort of Exilles is very striking. In this part of the val- ley of the Dora a battle took place in 1767, between the French, who were then invading Piedmont under the Comte de Belleisle, and the Pied- montese, in which the French com- mander lost his life, after a hard- fought action, 22 m. Chiomonte(2525ft.),in a wider valley, which the Rly. soon leaves and again comes out upon the face of the mountain. The old Mont Genevre road is crossed, the zigzags of which are conspicuous on the slope. The town of Susa is seen in the valley, with the magnificent peak of the Bocoia 3Iflone above it. The line continues to descend rapidly, until the Dora Riparia is crossed to 31 m. Bnssoleno Junct. (1650 ft.). The walled town (2300) is on the rt. bank of the Dora. Interesting walk to the (1 hr.) Castle of Bruzolo^by the Col de la Croix de Fer to (5 hrs.) Usseglio. CBranch line "W. to 5 m. Susa (3000), the Segusium of the Romans, and the seat of a bishop- ric. It is picturesque in its mediaeval towers and gates, and is surrounded with lovely scenery. The Dora-Susina runs by the side of the town. The Arch or City Gate, erected by Julius Cottius, son of King Jlon- nus, about B.C. 8, in honour of Au- gustus, is on a road leading up from the S."W. of the Cathedral to the Old Castle outside the town, and is sup- posed to have stood on the Roman road Boute 1. — Susa : Cathedral. which crossed Mout Genevre. This chieftaiu ot the Alpiue tribes, having submitted to the lioinau authority, records his diguity uuder the huuibler title of Prelect. The Coriuthiau arch is of white marble, aud the upper part is destroyed, it is bomewhat remark- able thai tlie coiumus are set ou a pe- destal which raises them cousiderably above the pilasters of the arch. The iuscriptiou, now ueaily elfaced, gave the names of his 14 mouutaiu ciaus, aud all that cau be made out now are the words IMP. CAESAiU AUG06T0 DlVl F. PONTIFICI MAXIMO TiilBtJNlC. POTEN- TATE XV. IMP. XI 11. The reliefs represent the sacrifices (Suovetaurilia) and other ceremonies by which the treaty was ratified and concluded. There are two other Arches of lioman construction close by. The Cathedral of St. Justus is of the 11th cent., and has a lofty campanile, in the Lombard style. The arches and massy piers of the nave belong to a more ancient labric ; the rest is in a simple Gothic style. In the Chapel of the Virgin is a gilded statue in wood (12th cent.) of Adelaide, Countess of busa, the princess through whom the House of Savoy acquired the dominions which became the origin of its power in Italy. This celebrated lady was thrice married, her third husband being Otho, son of Humbert 1., Count of Maurienne. in the right transept is a triptych, witli the figure of Hugh Scott, i5ishop of Lincoln (1126). In one of the chapels is a curious mediaeval group in bronze of our Lady of lioccia Meioue with St. George and Bonitacio liotari, a crusader of the 12th cent. The 11th- cent. font, of green ijusa marble, has an ambiguous inscription, leaving it doubtful who " Guigo " was. In the Sacristy is a large silver Cross, said to have been given by Charlemagne. Ancient towers, gateways, and Gothic remains add to the picturesque effect of the town. Above Susa are the extensive ruins of the fort of La Brunetta, which once guarded the valley, and with the fortresses of Exilles aud Fenestrelles, defended Piedmont ou the side of France. It was destroyed by the French in 1798, in virtue of a treaty with Sardinia. The road over Mont Cenis passes near the ruins. The Rochemelon (11,675 ft.), or Roccia Mtlone \^Mons Mumuleaj, N. of Susa, IS crowned with a chapel, founded by Bonifacio of Asti i^see above;, who, having been taken prisoner by the Mahometans, made a vow that, if set free, he would erect an oratory here in honour of the Virgin. The fetters which bound him are preserved in the chapel. An annual procession takes place to this chapel on the 15th of August, the feast of the Assumption. Mule-path by the (4 hrs.) Casolari del True (6276 ft.) to the Casa iV Asti (9141 ft.), whence the Crocdia i^lU,5U5 ft. ) may be reached by a rough track iii 2^ hrs., which is a little below the Chapel. '6 m. from Susa are the remains of the Abbey of Novaiesa, founded by Abbo, lord of Susa, about the year 739, aud situated upon the old and now almost abandoned road to the Hospice. It was ruined by the Saracens not long after its foundation, but was rebuilt m the lUth cent. Just outside of Susa, the view, looking back upon the town, in which the Itoman arch is conspicuous, is very beautiful. The extremity of the valley appears closed by the lotty Monte Pirchiriauo, upon the summit of which may be descried the tower of the Abbey church of San Michele. The Koman road over the Alps, which was constructed when Cottius sub- mitted to Augustus, passed up this valley, and, turning to the iS.W. at Susa, along the valley of the Dora, crossed by the pass of ML Genevre. This became the road most frequented by the Komans between Italy and Cisalpine Gaul. The military road of Pompey and Csesar passed through Oulx, and over the Col de Sestrieres. J The main line passes on the 1. Foresto, where are quarries of serpen- G Houte 1. — Sant^ Antonino — Sant'' Amhrogio, tine, called Verde di Susa, resembling verde antico, but less durable and of a duller green. Near at hand is the Cavern of the Orrido di Foresto, into which the stream flowing from the glaciers of Koccia Melone is precipi- tated. Not far distant is the Orrido di Chianoc, another fine cave. On the rt. is San Giorio (Giorgio), displaying its array of walls and towers, and an ancient fortress ascending the hill. 38 m, Sant' Antonino, a small town with an ancient Lombard tower. The conspicuous height in the distance, upon the summit of which a building can be fairly discerned, is Monte Pirchiriano, between which and Monte Caprasio was the ancient forti- fied line erected a.d. 774 by Deside- rius, King of the Lombards, to defend his kingdom against Charlemagne ; but of these defences no traces are now to be found, except in the name of the neighbouring hamlet of Ch iusa (Clusse). The wall was defended by bulwarks and towers ; but Charle- magne did not attack them — a minstrel from the Lombard camp betrayed the existence of a secret path, through which the forces of the King of the Franks penetrated. Desiderius fled to Pavia, and the Lombard monarchy was overthrown. 42 m. Sant' Ambrogio, with a rather remarkable Church, lies at the foot of Monte Pirchiriano. The houses with their projecting galleries are picturesque. A steep mountain path (donkeys may be hired) leads in 1^ hr. behind the old Church by San Pietro, and through fine gi'oves of chestnut-trees up to *La Sagra di San Michele, one of the most remarkable churches of Pied- mont, pei'ched on the summit of the Pirchiriano (3100 ft.). Originally an oratory, founded by Amisone, Bishop of Turin in the 10th cent, it was marked out by beams of fire, which descended from heaven, and lighted the tapers employed for its consecration. As a monastery, it was rebuilt about 998 by Hugh de Mont- boissier, a nobleman of Auvergne, who for some heinous crime had been enjoined the penance of founding a monastery in the Alps. In its flourish- ing days the Sagra contained 300 monks of the order of St. Benedict ; and its history is connected with several of the most important per- sonages and events of Piedmont and Savoy. Like most of the monasteries dedi- cated to St. Michael, this Sagra has the character at once of a castle and a church ; great masses of ruins sur- round the habitable portion. Not- withstanding injudicious repairs, it is yet a complete castle of romance, — walls growing out of rocks, and rocks built in and forming walls and foun- dations of the edifice. Passing by a ruined outwork, we traverse a low vaulted gallery, and reach a small terrace. Before us is a Tower, rising out of and also leaning against the rock ; the lower part con- tains the staircase to the monastery ; the upper portion forms the apse of the Choir, and terminates in an open Lombard gallery of small circular arches supported by pillars. This staircase is supported by an enormous central pier : here and there the rocks jut out, and portions of sepulchres are dimly seen. At the summit is a great ai'ch, filled with desiccated corpses. The beautiful circular marble arch, by which we pass from the staircase to the corridor leading to the Church, is sculptured with the signs of the zodiac and inscriptions in very early Longobardic characters. A fine Gothic tomb, representing an abbot, has excited much controversy. King Charles Albert caused the remains of several members of the royal family to be removed hither from Turin. The remainder of the ?agra is a wilderness of ruined halls, corridors, cells, &c. The Beq^ic- tines have disappeared ; and long before the Kevolution their possessions had been much dilapidated. It was considered as one of those good "pieces of preferment" which the Bo ute 1 . — Avigliana — Turin. crown might dispose of; and the cele- brated Prince Eugene, all booted and spurred, appears in the lists of abbots. The monastery has been given over to the priests of the Istituto della Carita, called Bosmlnians, from the name of their founder — an order of recent origin. They are principally em- ployed in Education. The views from the summit of the mountain, and those from the outer gallery of the choir, are of great beauty. A rock in the neighbourhood is called the Salto della Bella Alda. The fair Alda leaped from the summit and reached the ground in safety, under the protection of the Virgin. Vainglorious and rash, she attempted the leap a second time, and perished by the fall. 44 m. Avigliana, An old town, full of shattered fragments. The Church of San Pietro is of very high antiquity, and in the Parish Church are some good pictures, including a triptych by Defendente Ferrari. Et. rises the Castle. Monte Musino in the neighbourhood furnishes some re- markable minerals, amongst others Hydropliane, which, opaque when dry, has the property of becoming trans- parent when immersed in water. Near Avigliana are two small pleasing and secluded lakes, the Lago della Ma- donna, and the Lago di San Barto- lommeo. From these lakes all the drinking-water of Turin is now ob- tained. The Dora adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery in this vicinity. 47 m. Rosta, in the plain below the hill of Rivoli. Near the village is the Church of Sant' Antonio di Rinverso, or Inverso, consecrated by Pope Calixtus V. in 1121. It is Gothic, with roof of painted tiles; the high altar is of the 15th cent. Re- markable Giottesque frescoes. Looking back, grand views are now obtained of the Alpine chain. 50 m. Alpignano. On the opposite side of the Dora is the larger town of Pianezza, a fief of the Archbishops of Turin. 53 m. Collegno (2300), on the Dora, in the mOsf fertile part of the plain. Here is a suppressed Carthusian monastery, which has been converted into a lunatic asylum. The knights of the' Order of the Annunziata (the Garter of Piedmont) Avere interred in its Crypt. Fro-m Collegno the Ely. crosses" thfe plain to 59 m. Turin {Torino)., Porta Nuova Stat, in the Piazza Carlo Felice (D. 5). ; TURIN. PAGE Accademia Albertina 21 Militare 15 Armoury •. . 14 Asylum 23 Biblioteca Nazionale 21 Botanical Garden - . 11 Bridge overthe Dora 10 Po 11 Campo Santo 23 Capuchin Convent 23 Cathedral . , 11 Cavour, House of 10 Cemetery 23 Chm-ch of the CoDsolata 12 ^ Corpus Domini 12 Gran Madre diDio 12 S. Domenico 12 S. Gioachino 13 S Giulia 12 S. Lorenzo 12 S. Secondo 13 — S. Spirito 12 Engineering School 16 Galleria Subalpina 9 Giardino di Cittadella 11 Pubblico 11 Reale 11 Hospitals 23 Industrial Museum 21 Library, National 21 , Eoyal 13 Model Chateau 11 Monument to Amedeus VI IC Cavour 10 Conte Yerde 10 Mont Cents Tunnel 9 Sardinian Heroes 9 Siccardi Reforms 10 Museo Civico 21 Storico Xazionale 22 Museum of Antiquities 18 Artillery 20 Natural History 20 Palazzo Madama 15 Palazzo Carignano y, 15 Madama i5 Eeale 14 Valentino 16 Piazza d'Armi .11 Boute 1. — Turin : History]; PAGE . 10 Piazza Carlina ■ Carlo Alberto 9 Carlo Felice 10 • Custello 9 Emaiiuele Filiberto 10 Pal. di Cilta 9 Savoia 10 Sulterino 10 A'itt. Emanuele 1 10 Vitt. tmauuele 11 10 Picture Gallery 16 Porta Palatina 10 Protestant Church 13 Royal Palace 13 Santa Sijidone 11 Statue of Brofferio 11 Carlo Alberto 10 Cassinis 11 • — Eman. Filiberto 9 ■ Duke Ferdinand 10 Garibaldi ........ 11 Gioberti 9 Lagrange 10 Massimo d'Azeglio 10 Paleocapa Pietro Micca . . Prince Eugene. . Vitt. Emanuele 11. Synagogue Tasso, House of 11 Theatres 22 University 20 Vigna della Regina 23 ^ Principal sights, when time is limited : — From the Rly. Stat, down the Via Roma to the Finacottca; Museum of Antiquities ; then through the Piazza Castello, passing the Palazzo Madama, to the Moyal Palace and Armoury. After seeing the Cathe- dral, which is behind the Royal Palace, drive down the Via Po, cross- ing the Ponte di Po and ascending the Monte dei Cap;pucini for the view. Recross the Po by the Suspension Bridge, drive round the Public Garden^ aud return to the Riy. Stat, by the Corso del Valentino. HISTORY. Turin (785 ft.) is situated on a plain in the angle between the Dora Riparia and the Po, just above the junction of these two rivers : the first is a fine mountain-torrent, the latter a deep and rapid river. The city (275,U(JU) is poor in historical associations. Its history, whether under the Roman Empire or during the middle ages, is nearly a blank ; and it is almost entirely destitute of any vestiges of classical or mediaeval antiquity. It IS supposed to have been foimded by a Ligurian tribe called the Taurini ; the earliest mention we hnd of it has reference to its resistance to Hannibal, after his celebrated passage of the Alps. At a later period it became a Roman colony under the name of Au(/U6la Tau- rinorum. Destroyed by Constantine for having espoused the cause of Maxentius, we hnd it in the hands of its dukes at the invasion of the Lombards. Claudius, Bishop of Turin (d. y40), was distin- guished by his opposition to the uses of images in Divine Avorship, as a breach of the second Commandment, and to the veneration of relics. In the 11th cent, the city was the capital of a County, the chief of Avhich and last of the male branch, Manfred 111., married his only daughter, Adelaide, to Otho of Savoy in 1045 — the origin of its possession by the present royal family. In 1536, Francis I. demolished the extensive suburbs, and reduced the limits of its ancient Avails, destroying at the same time the amphi- theatre aud several other Roman remams. In 1640 the tovm was subjected to a memorable siege during the contest be- tAveen the French and Spaniards, A\-hen the latter, headed by Prince Tommaso of Savoy, capitulated*^ to Marshal d'Har- coturt. During the Avar of the Succession, Piedmont took part against Lotus XIV., . and Amedeo was besieged in his capital, Avhich he defended heroically for o months before a very superior force, until the arriA-al of Prince Eugene and the imperialist army. This was f olloAved by the signal defeat of the French (Sept. 7, 1706), who were forced to raise the siege. The city is no longer f ortilied ; the citadel and its outAvorks — razed, in 1857, to make room for the Goods Station of the Rly. and the new portion of the toAA'n rapidl)^ extending in that direction — was a remarkable monument of mili- tary architecture. It Avas built by Emanuele Filiberto in 1565 ; and, pre- ceding AntAverp by tAA'o or three years, was the earliest specimen of regular for- titications in Europe. In 1850 the city became the Capital of Italy and the resi- dence of the King, until the remoA'al^f the seat of GoA'ernment, in 1865, to Florence. A portion of the Avails of the Porta Palatina, at the N. extremity of the city, so called from the tAvo round towers which were added during the IDDC n ^ ]ODn:i[M JQBC A J S.S i1 _5 UUt/ 74 Ji '^ 1 OUflj "•i /ij M- Boute 1. — Squares; Public Gardens ; Monuments. 9 middle ages, and some of the lower part of the Palazzo Madama, are perhaps the only ancient remains now existing. The reconstruction of the city, begun by Emanuele Filiberto and Carlo Emanu- eie I., is uiamly due to Carlo Emanuele IL and Yittorio Amedeo 11. Still fur- ther improvements have been more re- cently made, under the three late kings and the reigning monarch. At least one- fourth of the city has been erected since the restoration of the Royal Family, and of later years nearly one-third has been added to it on the S. side, where entire streets and squares have rapidly risen. The climate of Turin, although vari- able from its proximity to high moun- tains, is healthy. Autumn is the plea- santest season, for the winter is cold, the spring changeable, and the simimer hot. SQUARES, PUBLIC GARDENS, AND MONUMENTS. The streets are all straight lines, intersecting each other at right angles. The blocks or masses of buildings formed by these intersections are called isole, an architectural Latinism retained here and also in Provence. The houses, which are of brick, in- tended for a covering of stucco, are divided into several apartments, occu- pied by distinct families. Through the perspective of the streets, the hills which surround the city, and the more distant Alps, are continually in view. The lofty colonnades running under the houses are a prominent feature, but the interminable succession of arcades, and wmdows of the same height, is a little monotonous. The spacious Piazza Castello (D. 3) has in its centre the Palazzo Madama, on the N. the Royal Palace, and on the E. the Teatro Regio. Over the Palace is seen the fantastic spiral dome of the Sudario Chapel, and in front of it on the left is the dome of San Lorenzo. E. the broad and hand- some Via di Po extends to the Piazza V. Emanuele and the Bridge, beyond which is seen the beehive-like Church of La Gran Madre di Dio. W. of the Palazzo Madama is the Monument erected in 1857, by the Mi- lanese, to the Sardinian Army, iu. com- memoration of its heroic deeds for the liberation of the country in 1849. A Piedmontese soldier in white marble holds a flag, and below is a bronze relief by Vela, representing Victor Emanuel at the head of his troops. From the S.E. corner of the Piazza Castello opens the Galleria delV In- dustria Suhalpina, a covered Arcade. On the opposite side of the square the Via Garibaldi leads to the Piazza dello Statute (A, 3), in which is the monument to commemorate the open- ing of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. It is a pile of granite rocks, 60 ft. high, studded with Titans contend mg with the forces of Nature, and surmounted by a bronze Genius of Science. The inscribed names are those of the Engineers. The Piazza Carlo Alberto, ou the E. side of the Palazzo Carignano (D. 3), has a fine bronze equestrian Statue of King Charles Albert, by Marocclietti, erected in 1861 ; at the base are four Piedmontese soldiers, and above as many allegorical figures of Italy. Ou the sides are four reliefs of military exploits of the King, and of his abdi- cation. The small Piazza Carignano, on the W. side of the same Palace, contains a marble Statue of the philosopher Gioherti (d. 1848), on a pedestal of pmk granite, by the Piedmontese sculptor Alhertoni (1860). The spacious Piazza San Carlo (D. 4) has on its S. side the churches of Sta. Cristina and San Carlo Bor- romeo, from the latter of which it derives its name. In this Piazza stands a bronze equestrian ^Statue of Emanuele Filiberto (d. 1580), in ar- mour, sheathing his sword, presented to the city by King Carlo Alberto, and executed by Baron Marocchetti (1838). The original suit of armour is preserved in the Armeria Eeale. The bronze re- liefs on the pedestal represent the battle of St. Quentiu, and the treaty of Chateau Cambresis (1557, 1559). The Piazza del Palazzo di Citta mg6 CD. 2 D 3 C 3 Jjtlj^Cf ftyr^ mJJK0s;±Mmi cffisa r-Tmi^m ^sfi- ^:imA ^f>.-^< L-3R^/ :^:^' . — f" ^1 Piazza l^i dello Statuti h STAl 'mm "^ii3n 13 D»-' BJ C o r s o ijport o |y / ^"V \> C o r s o mrf ira Pia»za. u Armi Hotels '~\M f IE 11 ;;j^jr 2^1 fry I Nxiova Pia»ra. D 'Aumi flotels ' h'g^ M for Murray's Handbooli iu/urux B i "^ Banr.jexem lOGranMcrr) /Ai < Moute 1. — Squares; Public Gardens ; Monuments. middle ages, and some of the lower part of the Palazzo Madama, are perhaps the only ancient remains now existing. The reconstruction of the city, begun by Emanuele Filiberto and Carlo Emanu- ele I., is mainly due to Carlo Emanuele II. and Vittorio Amedeo 11. iStili fur- ther improvements have been more re- cently made, under the three late kings and the reigning monarch. At least one- fourth of the city has been erected since the restoration of the Royal Family, and of later years nearly one-third has been added to it on the S. side, where entire streets and squares have rapidly risen. The climate of Turin, although vari- able from its proximity to high moun- tains, is healthy. Autumn is the plea- santest season, for the wiuter is cold, the spring changeable, and the simimer hot. SQUARES, PUBLIC GARDENS, AND MONUMENTS. The streets are all straight lines, intersecting each other at right angles. The blocks or masses of buildings formed by these intersections are called isole, an architectural Latinism retained here and also in Provence. The houses, which are of brick, in- tended for a covering of stucco, are divided into several apartments, occu- pied by distinct families. Through the perspective of the streets, the hills ■which surround the city, and the more distant Alps, are continually in view. The lofty colonnades running under the houses are a prominent feature, but the intex'minable succession of arcades, and wmdows of the same height, is a little monotonous. The spacious Piazza Castello (D. 3) has in its centre the Palazzo Madama, on the N. the Koyal Palace, and on the E. the Teatro Kegio. Over the Palace is seen the fantastic spiral dome of the Sudario Chapel, and in front of it on the left is the dome of San Lorenzo. E. the broad and hand- some Via di Po extends to the Piazza V. Emanuele and the Bridge, beyond which is seen the beehive-like Church of La Gran Madre di Dio. W. of the Palazzo Madama is the Monument erected in 1857, by the Mi- lanese, to the Sardinian Army, iu com- memoration of its heroic deeds for the liberation of the country in 1849. A Piedmontese soldier iu white marble holds a flag, and below is a bronze relief by Vela, representing Victor Emanuel at the head of his troops. From the S.E. corner of the Piazza Castello opens the Galleria dell' In- dustria Subalpina, a covered Arcade. On the opposite side of the square the Via Garibaldi leads to the Piazza dello Statute (A, 3), in which is the monument to commemorate the open- ing of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. It is a pile of granite rocks, 60 ft. high, studded with Titans contending with the forces of Nature, and surmounted by a bronze Genius of Science. The inscribed names are those of the Engineers. The Piazza Carlo Alberto, on the E. side of the Palazzo Carignano (D. 3), has a fine bronze equestrian Statue of King Charles Albert, by Marocchetti, erected in 1861 ; at the base are four Piedmontese soldiers, and above as many allegorical figures of Italy. Ou the sides are four reliefs of military- exploits of the King, and of his abdi- cation. The small Piazza Carignano, on the W. side of the same Palace, contains a marble Statue of the philosopher Gioherti (d. 1848), on a pedestal of pink granite, by the Piedmontese sculptor Albertoni (1860). The spacious Piazza San Carlo (D. 4) has on its S. side the churches of Sta. Cristiua and San Carlo Bor- romeo, from the latter of which it derives its name. In this Piazza stands a bronze equestrian ^Statue of Emanuele Filiberto (d. 1580), in ar- mour, sheathing his sword, presented to the city by King Carlo Alberto, and executed by Baron Marocchetti (1838). The original suit of armour is preserved in the Armeria Beale. The bronze re- liefs on the pedestal represent the battle of St. Quentin, and the treaty of Chateau Cambresis (1557, 1559). The Piazza del Palazzo di Citta 10 Boute 1. — Turin: Squares; Gardens; Monuments. (Town-hall) has a monument to Ame- dtus VI. The bronze group by Palagi (1853) represents this Duke of Savoy (d. 1883), better known as the Conte Verde, slaying a prostrate Saracen. Beside the entrance to the Palace are marble iStatues of Prince Eugene of Savoy and Duhe Ferdinand of Genoa (d. 1*54) ; and under the portico are Statues of Carlo Alberto, " il Magna- nimo," by Cauda, and of Victor Emanuel IL, by Vela. Tablets con- taining the names of the citizens of Turin killed in the campaigns of 18i8, 1849, and 1859, are lixed to the wall of the portico. The clock in front Avas made by Dent of London. The Piazza Savoia has a pink granite ohelisk erected in 1853, by public subscription, to commemorate the reforms of Siccardi, particularly the abolition, in 1850, of ecclesiastical jurisdiction in civil affairs in Pied- mont. On the sides are engraved the names of the members of the legis- lature who took part in the vote of the Chambers. The Piazza Carlo Felice (D. 5), in front of the Ely. Stat., is decorated with plants, flowers, and a fountain. Here is a bronze Statue of Massimo d'Azeglio (d. 1866), erected in 1873 by Balzico. Opening out of it on either side are two smaller squares : on the E. the Piazzetta Lagrange, having a Statue, erected in 1867, of the great mathematician Lagrange, who was born, in 1736, in the Via Lagrange (a tablet marks the house), although of French or Savoyard descent. On the W. is the Piazzetta Paleocapa; the sitting figure of rough white marble is that of the engineer Paleocapa, for many years Minister of Public Works. The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. (B. 5) is adorned with a Statue of the late king, by Costa. In the Piazza Solferino (C. 4) is a bronze Statue, representing Duke Ferdinand of Genoa in the act of springing from his mortally wounded horse at the battle of Novara, by Balzico. In the adjoining Gardens are monuments of Gen. Gerbaix de Sonnaz (bronze), and the historian La Farina (marble). The Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., usually called Piazza Carlina (E. 4), contains a large ^Monument to Cavour, who was born in 1810 at the corner of the Via Lagrange and Via Cavour (a tablet marks the house) ; the statues of Cavour and Italy are by Dupre of Florence (1873). The poor bronze reliefs on the pedestal represent the return of the Sardinian army from the Crimea, and the Congress of Paris. The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele I. (E. F. 3) is principally remarkable for its extent, and the fine view which it commands of the CoUina range, with the Superga rising to the 1. At its E. extremity is a Bridge leading to the church of La Gran Madre di Dio. It was begun by the French in 1810, and completed by Vittorio Emanuele II. It has five elliptic granite arches, each of about 80 ft. span. Good view S. of the Palazzo Valentino, with a background of Alps, and of the Capuchin monastery over- hanging the Po. Behind the Gran Madre Church is the Vigna della Eegina (see below). Looking down the stream, the Superga is seen tower- ing on its hill. The Piazza Emanuele Filiberto (C. 2) serves as a Market Place. Half- Avay between it and the Cathedral is the Porta Palatina, the only relic of Roman architecture remaining in Turin. The building has been con- verted into a Night School of Design. The Gateway is of brick, with two mediaeval Towers connected by arcades, but the S. front is modernised. Beyond the Piazza, consti'ucted in 1830, a fine Bridge crosses the Dora Riparia, a river ordinarily shallow, but liable to heavy floods. It consists of a single arch of granite, resting on solid abut- ments of the same material, and cost 56,000L On a triangular space in front of the remains of the Citadel (B. 4) is a bronze Statue representing the gallant Boide 1. — Gardens; Promenades; Churches. 11 Pietro Micca, a soldier who, at the cost of his own life, blew up a mine that destroyed the French troops, as they entered the citadel in 1706. Tasso^s house is 2, Via della Basilica (C. 2) ; a tablet records that the poet lived here in 1578. Gardens and Promenades. — The well-shaded Giardino Reale attached to the Koyal Palace is open daily in summer from 11 to 3 ; military band on Sun. afternoon. The pretty and spacious Giardino Pubblico, extending along the banks of the Po from the Suspension Bridge to the Valentino palace (E. F. 5, G), is charmingly laid out and much frequented {Cafe and Restaurant). S. of it is a Model Castle and Village, erected in 1884 as a memorial of the Exhibition, and representing a Piedmontese Chateau of the middle ages. It was designed by Braydaaud decorated by Andrade. (Adm. 50 c.) The small and unattrac- tive Giardino di Cittadella (B. 3) has white marble Statues of the orator Brofferio, and Cassinis the jurist (1866). The Piazza d'Armi is sur- rounded by shady avenues, much frequented on fine afternoons (military band daily on summer evenings). There are, besides, Boulevards planted with trees on the outskirts of the city. The Botanical Garden is near the Valentino Palace, and can be seen at any time on application to the keeper. N. of the Suspension Bridge, on the 1. bank of the Po, is a bronze Statue of Garibaldi, with allegorical'reliefs in white marble, erected in 1887. CHURCHES. The architect principally employed at Turin by Carlo Emanuele II. was the Theatiue Guarini (1624-1683), an able mathematician, noted for his bold and daring constructions. Ju- vara, a Sicilian by birth (1685-1735), was much patronised by Vittorio Amedeo II. There is much difference in the style of these two architects, but they generally agree in their de- plorable want of taste. The Cathedral (C. D. 2), dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was founded by AgiJulphus, King of the Lombards, about 602. The present building was begun in 1492, and consecrated in 1505. It has been much altered, and some arabesques in the pilasters of the fa9ade are the only remarkable portions of the original structure. The interior is not attractive, and has been decorated with frescoes (1835). The vaulting contains Scripture sub- jects from the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise to the giving of the Law. Over the arches are the principal events in the life of St. John Baptist ; at the W. end is a copy, by Fran. Sagna, of the Cenacolo of Leonardo da Vinci. The 2nd chapel rt. has a Virgin and Child, with four Saints and eight small subjects, by Beferrari. In the First Sacristy, opening out of the rt. transept, is the monument of Claude Seyssel, who, after filling suc- cessively the places of Professor in the University of Turin, and of Master of Requests in France, where he was employed by Louis XII. on several diplomatic missions, became Bishop of Marseilles, and subsequently Arch- bishop of Turin, where he died in 1520. The high altar is richly ornamented : over the 1. transept is the gallery for the royal family. Behind the cathedral, seen through the arch over the high altar, and en- tered by a double flight of black marble stairs, is the *Cappella del SS. Sudario, or Santa Sindone (open until 10 or 11 A.M.). It is lined with black marble. Its cupola is formed of arched ribs, from the summits of which others spring in succession, thus form- ing a sort of dome. The capitals of the columns, and some other orna- mental portions, are of bronze. The pavement is inlaid with bronze stars. In the centre is the altar, upon which is placed the shrine, brilliant with gold, silver, and precious stones. The Sindone, according to the legend, is one of the folds of the shroud in which our Lord was wrapped by Joseph of Arimathffia, and on which 12 Fvoute l.—Tb Church an impression was left of the body ; other folds being preserved at lionie, at Besan^'on, and at Cadouin iu Pe'rigord. 1'he one at Turin was brought from Cyprus, and presented in 145:2, by Marguerite de Charni, the descendant of a nobleman of Cham- pagne, who was said to have obtained it during the Crusades ; but there is uo mention of its exibteuce until the 15th cent., when, having been given by Marguerite to Duke Louis 11., it was deposited at Chambe'ry. Hence it was brought to Turin, in 1578, by Emanuel Pliilibert, for the purpose of enabling S. Carlo Borromeo to vene- rate it without the fatigue of crossing the Alps. While at Chambe'ry it was invoked by Francis I. previous to the battle of Marignano, and on his return to France he went on foot from Lyons to adore it. A sitting marble figure of Queen Maria Adelaide (d. 1S55J, the wife of King Victor Emanuel, by Mtvelli, a Genoese sculptoi*, has been erected in this chapel. In the niches round the sanctuary King Charles Albert placed, in 1842, monuments to four of the most re- nowned members of the house of Savoy — Emanuel Philiuert, whose remains are beneath — a line work by Marchesi ; Prince Thomas of Savoy (d. 1656), from whence descend the present sovereigns of Italy, of the branch of Carignano, by LTaggini, a Genoese pupil of Cauova; Cliarles Emanuel 11. (d. 1675), by Fraccaruli ; and Amedeo Vlil. (1451), by Cacciatori. San Lorenzo (D. 3), an extreme example of the fancy of Guariui, is curious from its fantastical dome, formed on ribs, each of which is the chord of 3-8ths of a circle. It was built in 1631. San Domenico (C. 2) contains on the rt. of the high altar a large pic- ture of the Virgin and Child present- ing the rosary to the patron saint, by Guercino. St. Catharine kneels beside St. Dominic, wearing a crown of thorns. La Consolata (B. 2), the j oldest Church in Turin, derives its name from a miraculous image of the Virgin. The present edifice was constructed by Guarini in 167U, on the site of one founded in the lUth cent. In a recess on the 1. are marble statues, by Vela, to the two Queens of Sardinia, who both died iu 1855, Maria Teresa, wife of Charles Albert, and Maria Adelaide^ wife of Victor Emanuelell. The corridor on the rt. is covered with ex-voto paintings of the rudest kind, many of them extremely comic. The brick campanile belonged to the original Church, then dedicated to St. Andrew, in the Piazza stands a handsome column of grey Biella granite, erected in lSo5, to com- memorate the cessation of the hrst invasion of the cholera. Corpus Domini (C. 2) was built in 1609-1753. On the floor of the nave is a railed-in marble inscription, to commemorate the miraculous recovery of a piece of Sacramental plate con- taining the consecrated wafer. This had been stolen during the pillage of Exilles by a soldier, and hidden in one of his panniers, but the ass carrying it refused to pass the church door : the sacred pyx fell to the ground, and the wafer, rismg into the air, remained suspended there, encircled with rays of light, until the bishop and his clergy came out to receive it. This singiUar miracle, said to have taken place on the bth of June, 14:53, is represented in three paintings by Vacca on the vault of the nave. Adjacent is the Church of S. Spirito, iu which Jean Jacques liousseau became a Ivoman Catholic at the age of 16 (1728j. S. Giulia (F. 2) is a modern Church iu the Gothic^style, built by Ftrrante at the expense of the Marchesa di Barolo. La Gran Madre. di Dio (F. -k) was begun in 1818, to commemorate the restoration of the royal family in 1814, and finished about 18i0. It is an imitation of the Pantheon at JRoiite 1. — Palaces and Public Buildings. Rome, by the architect Buonsignore, I and is said to have cost 100,0002. sterling, chiefly contributed by King I Carlo Felice. S. Gioachino, by Ceppi, in front ' of the Lanzo Ely. Stat. (C. 1), and 8. Secondo, near the Central Stat. (C. 5), are good examples of modern Churches. A Protestant Church (Tempio Val- dese) was built in 1853, on the S, side of the fine Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. (D. E. 5), chiefly for the use of the Vaudois, of whom there is a con- siderable number settled at Turin. Service on Sunday at 11 in French, according to the Vaudois rite. The principal part of the expense was con- tributed by the Government, for which it has been visited with great animad- version by the bigoted party. The Jewish Sjmagogue, in the Via Sant' Anselmo (D. 5), is worth a visit. PALACES AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Royal Palace (Palazzo Beale) on the N. side of the Piazza Castello (D. 2), was raised by Carlo Emanuele II. from the designs of the Conte di Castellamonte in 1660, and subse- quently enlarged by Juvara. The exterior has no pretension to mag- nificence, and its effect has been much injured by wings awlcwardly attached to it. The iron railings and gates which separate it from the Piazza are from designs by Palagi ; the bronze figures of Castor and Pollux by >S'fm- giorgio (1842). The interior is to be seen on Sun. and Thurs. from 10 to 12, and 2 to 4. Tickets at No. 1, Piazza S. Giovanni, N. of the Cathedral, gratis. On the principal staircase is a bronze equestrian Statue of Vittorio Amedeol., commonly called II Cavallo di Marmo, the animal being much more prominent than his rider. The captives at the feet of the horse are by Adriano Frisio, a scholar of Giov. Bologna. By a noble marble staircase, ornamented with paintings and statues, we reach a great old-fashioned hall, formerly appropriated to the Swiss 13 Guards. In this is a large painting of the battle of St. Quentin (1557), attri- buted to Palma the younger. Thence we pass into the hall of the Body Guard, adorned with frescoes and paintings. The state apartments are splendidly furnished, modern luxury being united to the heavy magnificence of the last century. They were re- stored and decorated during the reign of Charles Albert. The inlaid floors, in woods of different colours, are remarkably beautiful. In the King's Private Room are modern paintings of members of the House of Savoy remarkable for their piety, or mem- bers of religious orders. The Great Gallery, overlooking the gardens, con- tains portraits of sovereigns of the reigning family, and of men of emi- nence in every department, natives of the country. Beyond this is the Apartment of the Queen, with mag- nificent boudoirs, no longer shown. In the Guardaroha della Regina are some good Etruscan vases, and a large picture of Taormina, with iEtna in the distance, by Massimo d'Azeglio ; near this is the Chapel, gaudy and heavy. The State Drawing-room contains seve- ral indifferent pictures — one of a tournament at the Court of France between Amedeus VIII. of Savoy and the three English Earls of Harring- ton, Arundel, and Pembroke. The Drawing-room is richly decorated with a profusion of Chinese and Japan porcelain. The State Ball-room has a remarkable inlaid floor. The Chapel of the Santo Sudario, generally closed during the afternoon, on the side of the cathedral, can always be entered from the palace, near the anteroom of the state apartments. The King's Library on the ground- floor (open from 9 to 11 and 2 to 4, with the permission of the librarian), is a very handsome hall, containing upwards of 60,000 printed volumes and 3000 MSS. Amongst the latter are some curious documents and cor- respondence ; the materials sent by Frederick the Great to Count Alga- rotti, for the history of the Seven Years' War ; letters of Emanuel Phili- 1-i Monte 1 . — Turin : Palaces and Public Buildings. bert, Prince Eugene of Savoy, and Napoleon ; many Arabic and Syriac manuscripts. There is also a valuable collection of 2000 drawings by old masters, formed by the Koman en- graver Volpato, and including speci- mens of Mantegna, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Michel Angelo, &c., and a very fine Miniature by Cristoforo de Fredis (1474). — K. In the passage leading into the library are several early Christian inscriptions from the Catacombs at Eome, a few in Greek characters. Adjoining the state apartments, but entered from the side of the Piazza (No. 13, under the arcade), is the *Arineria Reale (open daily from 11 to 3, by Permesso obtainable only at the 1st door to the rt. on the stair- case. Catalogue, 5 fr.). This valuable collection of arms and armour was formed in 1834, partly from the arse- nals of Turin and Genoa, and partly from private collections, especially that of the Martinengo family of Brescia. The Armoury contains upwards of 3000 articles, deposited in two halls. In the first is a collection of standards of the Sardinian and Italian armies at different periods ; of modern war- like implements, and of numerous pi'e- sents made to the late King, — such as the crown presented by Turin in 1861; and a sword, presented by Rome in 1859, the work of Castellani of Rome, from the designs of the Duke of Sermoneta. The two Imperial eagles of Napoleon's Italian Guard, presented by one of its commanders, General Lecchi. The sword worn by Napoleon at Marengo; several Nea- politan flags taken by the Piedmontese. In the centre of the room is the favourite horse, of English breed, of King Carlo Alberto, which accom- panied him in his different campaigns, and during his last residence at Oporto. Here also are some marble busts of Piedmontese military celebrities, sun- dry warlike engines, apparatus, &c. The marble group of the Archangel Michael overcoming Satan is hyFinelli, and was presented by the widow of Carlo Felice in 1844. The long Hall, or Galleria Beau- mont, contains the most important objects of the collection. Four splendid suits which belonged to the Brescian family of Martinengo in the 15th cent., ornamented with damasquine and other engravings of excellent design : that of Antonio IV. being the finest of all. The full suit of Duke Emanuele Filiberto, or Tete de Fer, worn by him on the great day of the battle of St. Quentin. Emanuele himself was a very good armourer, not only in the coarse smith's work, but in the finer department of inlaying with silver, or damasquining, and it is said that the armour w hich he wore w^as his own manufacture. Pacific as he was in the later years of his life, he never went into public except in his panoply, and bearing his good sword under his arm. This armour is copied in Marocchetti's statue in the Piazza S. Carlo. Gigantic suit, bearing a ducal coronet and the letter F. The staff of com- mand of Alfonso da Ferrara (1515). That of the celebrated Tiepolo. A magnificent suit of damasquined steel. The cuirass of Prince Eugene of Savoy, with three deep bullet indentations, worn by him at the battle of Turin in 1706, with his sword and pistols. Cuirass worn by Carlo Emanuele III. at the battle of Guastalla in 1734, and that of the celebrated leader, Carmagnola, with fine reliefs. Helmets in the style of the Renais- sance. One formed part of the col- lection of the celebrated anatomist Scarpa of Pavia. It is covered with figures, representing Jove thundering upon the Titans. Shields and targets in the same style. One is exceedingly rich, embossed with subjects representing the contests be- tween Marius and Jugurtha. Among the ornaments is introduced a crescent, supposed to be the device of Diana of Poitiers ; but more probably the armo- rial bearings of its owner. It is of the best period of 16th-cent. art, and is attributed to Benvenido Celliiiit. Another very splendid shield, repre- senting the Labours of Hercules. Three very delicate triangular- bladed stilettoes, which, it is said. Boute 1. — Palaces and Public Buildings. 15 •were carried by Italian ladies for the purpose of ridding themselves of hus- bands or lovers. Sword of Duke Emanuele Filiberto, formerly preserved in the "Camera de Conti," and upon which the officers of state were sworn; an ancient Roman standard of an eagle, bearing the in- scription S. 0. T. and Leg. VIII., found in Savoy; the sword of St. Maurice, leader of the Theban Legion, given to Duke Charles Emanuele by the Abbey of Agauno in 1571 ; the sword of Constantinus Palseologus XIV., last Emperor of Constantinople ; the rostrum of an ancient galley in bronze, in the form of a wild boar's head, found in the port of Genoa ; also a sword-handle, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. The collection of Oriental arms pre- sented by General Solaroli is exten- sive, as also those from S. America. Amongst the former is a sword of Tippoo Saib, given by him to Gen. de Boigne, a Savoyard officer, who had been much employed by the native princes of India. The series of fire- arms of different periods is also con- siderable, and very many interesting as works of manufacture and art, amongst which may be particularised — 1534, the arquebus and pistols which belonged to Emanuel Philibert, having been given to him by Charles V. ; 1547, another, incrusted with ivory, with designs of mythological subjects ; and, 1548, a third, having subjects beautifully sculptured on ivory, repre- senting Meleager and Atalanta. At the extremity of the Armoury is a door, usually closed. Over it is a bust of King Carlo Alberto with his swords, and two Austrian standards, captured at Somma Campagna during the cam- paign of 1848. The door leads to the private Collection of coins and medals {Medagliere del Be) formed by King Carlo Alberto. It contains upwards of 30,000 Greek, Roman, and Italian pieces, and is especially rich in those of the house of Savoy, and of the Italian states. It can only be visited by the express permission of the Conservator. Adjoining the palace, and in com- munication with it, ai'e the Offices of the Prefect, and the ArcMvi, in which is deposited a rich collection of di- plomas and charters. Annexed to these archives is a valuable library of early printed books and manuscripts. The Accademia Militare forms also a part of the same pile. It encloses a large quadrangle, of handsome and scenic effect. Palazzo Madama. — This ancient Castle stands in the centre of the Piazza del Castello. It was founded by William Marquis of Montferrat in the latter part of the 13th cent., and enlarged about 1416, by Lodovico, last prince of Achaia, at which time the two great brick polygonal towers were erected. The principal front was added to the old structure in 1720, after the designs of Juvara, and is a good specimen of palatial architecture. The other three were to have been completed on the same plan. It was fitted up in 1718 as a palace for the widow (Madame Beale) of Charles Emanuel II. and mother of King Victor Amedeus II. A double flight of stairs leads up to some handsome rooms in the Louis XIV. style, appro- priated to the offices and committee- rooms of the Italian Senate, which held its assemblies in the large hall from 1848 until the transfer of the government to Florence in 1865. On the principal landing-place there is a statue of King Carlo Alberto, by Ce- valto, placed here by Vittorio Ema- nuele and the Italian Parliament. On the ground-floor the Academy of Medicine has rooms with a library and a Craniological Museum. Upon the high N.W. tower is the Royal Obser- vatory. Palazzo Carignano (D. 3) is a characteristic specimen of the fancy of Guarini (1680). The inside front, facing the court, was intended to be covered with stucco. Several of its rooms contain allegorical frescoes by painters of the last century. This palace has considerable historical in- terest; it was the residence of King 16 Hoiite 1. — Tarin : Museums and Picture Galleries. Carlo Alberto before his accession to the throne, and several members of the royal family were born here. A bronze inscription records the birth of Victor Emanuel in 1820. It was here that the Constitution was proclaimed in 1821, and it was in it that'the Chamber of Deputies or Lower House of the Italian Parliament held its sittings from 18G0 until removing to Florence in 18Go. The front towards the Piazza Carlo Alberto, constructed by Bollati and Ferri in 1864, principally of granite, and adorned with columns and statues, is very handsome. The roof of the fine hall in the new portion is decorated with paintings by Gonin, and that of the antechamber by Sereno (1870). This Palace now contains the Museum of Natural History (see below). The Palazzo Valentino (F. 6), built in 1633 by Christine of France, the wife of Vittorio Amedeo I., and daughter of Henri IV. and Marie de Medicis. The style is that of a French chateau ; the decorations of the apartments are heavy, and in the bad taste of the 17th cent. This Palace is now used as a Government Engi- neering School, and contains a collec- tion of mechanical models, as well as lecture-rooms and a library. There is also here a good collection of the rocks and minerals of Piedmont, which can be seen on application. MTJSEOIS AND PICTUKE GALLERIES. Palazzo della Reale Accademia delle Scienze (C. D. 3), a large building, formerly the Jesuit College, designed by Guarini in 1678, and intended to have been coated with stucco. Besides a good library (50,000 vols.), it con- tains the Pinacoteea, or Royal Gallery of Paintings and the Museum of Anti- quities. The entrance is on the E. side. Open on Sundays from 12 to 3, gratis, on other days from 9 to 4, except on certain festivals and holi- days. Adm. 1 fr. to each floor. The *PiNACOTECA, or Royal Gallery of Paintings (catalogue 1 fr. 25 c), was formed by King Carlo Alberto with pictures scattered over the different royal residences, and by some import- ant purchases from Genoa. Originally placed in the state apartments of the Palazzo Madama, it was removed in 1867 into a suite of 15 rooms, fitted up for the purpose, on the second floor, but several pictures have been put aside for want of space. On the great stairs hang some large examples of Jacopo Bassano, Sebastian Ricci, and others. Room I. contains portraits and busts of members of the House of Savoy, and some pieces representing battles in which the sovereigns of Pied- mont sustained a part. Room VIII. contains Paintings on porcelain, mostly from old masters of the Italian schools, executed by the Swiss artist Constantin, and purchased by King Carlo Alberto for 1 25,000 frs. Luca della Robbia, the Virgin and Children, relief in coloured earthenware. In Room XIII. is a beautiful relief of the Virgin and Child by Donatello. The remaining Pictures are here arranged in alphabetical order of Painters' names. Albani. — Salmacis and Hermaphro- ditus. — The Four Elements, executed for Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, " one of the best productions of modern mythological painting," Cic. The Cardinal had directed the painter to give him una copiosa quantita di amoretti; and Albani served him to his heart's content. The amoretti in this and the other companion pictures are exquisitely playful. Juno is the representative of Air ; and her nymphs are, with much odd ingenuity, con- verted into the atmospheric changes. /Eolus lets the winds out of a cave. Dew, rain, lightning, and thunder form one group. Water is figured by the triumph of Galatea ; at the bottom of the picture are nymphs and Cupids with pearls and coral. Earth is per- sonified by Cybele, whose car is ^v- rounded by three seasons, Winter being excluded. Here the Cardinal's Cupids are occupied in various agricultural labours. Fire is represented by Cupids Boute 1. — -Turin : Pinacoteca. 17 forging darts, by one of which Jupiter himself, with his thunderbolt, is trans- fixed. Vulcan looks on. Badile (Antonio), uncle and teacher of Paolo Veronese. — Presentation. Barnaba da Modena. — Virgin and Child. Bassano (Jac). — Cupid at the Forge. Beccafumi. — Virgin and Child, with SS. John B. and Jerome. Bellini (Giov.). — Virgin and Child. Bellotti {Bern.). — Two Views of Turin. Bonifazio (Veronese). — *Holy Family, with Tobias, SS. Catharine, Jerome, and others. Botticelli.— Tvwxva^h. of Chastity, a youth bound to a car drawn by lions, minutely finished. — Virgin and Child. Botticelli (School of). — Tobias, with the three Archangels. Bourguignon. — Cavalry Skirmish. Bril. —Landscape. Bronzino. — Eleanor of Toledo and her husband Cosimo I. dei Medici. Brueghel ( Velvet). — Landscape. i?rM?/w.— Portrait of Calvin. Bugiardini. — Virgin and Children. Caracci (Agost.). — Landscape. Caravaggio. — * Musician. Carlo Bold. — Virgin and Child. Claude Lorraine. — Two Landscapes: Morning and Evening. Olovio. — Curious Entombment, with three Angels above holding the San- tissimo Sindone. Crespi. — St. John Nepomuc leaving the Confessional. Defendente Deferrari. — Marriage of St. Catharine, and St. Peter.— Virgin and Child, with SS. Barbara and Michael, and Charles IIL of Savoy. Original frame. Domenichino.— Group of Children, symbolizing Architecture, Astronomy, and Agriculture. Engelbrechtsen. — Crucifixion ; Ecce Homo and Crowning with Thorns on the wings. — Adoration of the Magi. Fahritius. — The Reproof. Flinck. — Portrait. Moris. — Adoration of the Magi.' Fra Angelico. — Virgin and Child. — Angels in Adoration. JVawcia.^-*Entombment. Franciahigio. — Annunciation. N. Italy. Gandolfino. — Virgin and Child. Garofalo. — Disputation in the Tem- ple. Gaudenzio Ferrari. — *St. Peter with the donor. — The Virgin and Elizabeth — *Descent from the Cross. — Joachim driven from the Temple. — The Visita- tion. — Crucifixion. GentilescM. — Annunciation. Gerard Dou. — Girl picking Grapes. — Portrait. Girolamo Giovenone. — The Madonna enthroned between SS. Abbondio and Anthony of Padua, tempera (15 14). Giuseppe Giovenone. — Resurrection and Ascension. Goltzius. — Warrior. Guercino. — ^* Virgin and Child. — S. Fi-ancesca Romana. — Ecce Homo. Guido Reni. — John the Baptist. — - Cupids. Holbein. — Portrait of Erasmus, Hontliorst. — Samson. Lanini. — Holy Family, with St. Jerome. Lely {Sir Peter). Three Heads. Lorenzo di Credi. — * Virgin and Child. Macrino d' Alba. — Virgin and Child, with SS. John B., James, Ugo, and Jerome. — St. Peter, and a Franciscan Card. Bishop. — SS. Louis and Paul. Mantegna. — Virgin with the Child and five Saints. Maratta. — Virgin and Child. Massimo d'A zeglio. — Landscape. Mending. — *The Seven Sorrows of the Virgin. Mieris {Frans van). — His own Por- trait. Mignard. — Portrait of Louis XIV. Moretto. — Virgin and Child. Mytens. — Charles I. Netscher. — Scissors-grinder. Paolo Veronese. — The Queen of Sheba. — The Finding of Moses. — S. M. Magdalen in the house of the Pharisee. — Danae. Paris Bordone. — A beautiful woman, with cherries in her lap, " grossly misused," Cic. Penni. — Good copy of RafiEael's Entombment. Petrini {Gian.). — SS. Catharine and Peter M. Petrics Cr/sfws.— Virgin and Child. 18 Boute 1. — Turin: Museum of Antiquities. Pollajuolo. — * Tobias. Potter.— Cattle. Poussin. — Waterfall. — Cascade of Tivoli.— St. Margaret. Rafael. — Virgin and Child (Ma- donna della Tenda) on panel, an old copy of the picture at Munich. It derives its name from the curtain (tenda), and was purchased by Carlo Alberto for 3000?. Passavant thinks it is by Fierlno del Vaga. — Julius II. (Copy). liavenstein. — Portrait of a Princess. liemhrandt. — Old Man asleep. Eihera, — St. Paul the Hermit. Rinaldo Mantovano (pupil of Giulio Komano). — Assumption, and God the Father, " both Avitli single angels, quite noble and Kaffaellesque in conception," Cic. Rubens. — *Sketch for his Apotheosis of Henry IV., in the Uffizi.— Copy of Holy Family. Rahens (School of). — Soldier and Girl. Ruysdael. — Landscape. Saenredam. — Interior of a Church. ^a?Zaeris.— Procession. Sassoferrato. — Virgin and Child, with a Kose. Savoldo. — Holy Family with St. Francis. — Adoration of the Shepherds, " with a fine effect of dawn," K. Schalken. — Old Woman. Schiavone {And.). — Four oblong Mythological Scenes. Sodoma. — ■*Lucretia. — *Holy Fa- mily. Virgin and Child, with SS. Jerome, John Bapt., Lucia, and Catharine. Strozzi. — Homer as a blind fiddler, "quite original, painted with feeling," Cic. /S'tsfermans.— Portraits of Vittoria della llovere and her Son. Tenters. — Musicians. — *C a r d Players. Timoteo Vite. — Virgin and Child. Titian (Copy by Bassano). — Paul 111. Vandijck. — *Holy Family. — *Priuce Thomas of Savoy. — * Princess Clara Eugenia. — *Children of Charles I. Van Eyck. — St. Francis. Velasquez. — Philip IV. Vivarini (^.). — Virgin and Child, Vos. — Portrait of Snyders and his Wife. Wcyden {Roger van der).—S\2, 320, Visitation, with donor. Wouwerman. — Cavalry Skirmish. — Horse-market. The *MusEU3i of Antiquities — Museo Egizio e d'Antichita — has ac- quired much importance by the addi- tion of the Collections formed by Cavaliere Drovetti, a Piedmontese by birth, while Cousul-General of France in Egypt, and purchased by King Carlo Felice in 1820. They comprise some of the most valuable Egyptian remains in Europe. On the ground-floor are placed the more massive objects, statues, sphinxes, sarcophagi, and in- scriptions ; the second floor containing the smaller Egyptian objects, Eoman bronzes, &c. The division on the grouqd-floor consists of three large halls. Cata- logue by Signer Rossi, the director. The Drovetti specimens having been collected about Thebes, Luxor, &c., belong, like the more massive objects in our British Museum, to the period of the 18th and 19th dynasties, or from the 17th to the 13th centuries B.C. The following are best worthy of attention : — Four lion-headed female statues of Pasht, or Bubastes ; group in white marble of Ammon Rha and Horus. 2nd Hall : sitting statue of Phtah, the Vulcan of the Greeks, of the time of the 18th dynasty (1500 years B.C.) ; granite statue of Pasht ; sitting statue of Thothmes III., in black granite (IGth cent. B.C.); crouching colossal statue in granite of Amenophis II., the contemporary of Moses (16th cent. B.C.) ; statue in basalt of Amenophis III., or Memnon (1430 years B.C.) ; the most powerful of Egypt's kings ; a group of two statues of the period of Amenophis I. ; a very beautiful Sar- cophagus with its cover in green basalt ; pedestal of an *Altar in black granite (this is perhaps the most inte- resting relic in the whole collection, for its remote date ; it bears the name of Meri of the 12th dynasty, who lived 2654 years B.C.) ; a hollow marble Boiite 1. — Turin: Museum of Antiquities. 19 plinth, with a Greek inscription in honour of Ptolemy Epiphanes (230 years b.c). On the floor of this Hall are several *mosaics of the Roman period, discovered at Stampacci, in Sardinia, with representations of lions, bears, and antelopes, and a.male figure playing on a lyre, supposed to be Orpheus. Statue of Phtha with a Nilometer ; group of three sitting statues in black granite of *Rhamses II. (Sesostris), between Ammon Rha and Mut (14th cent. B.C.) : Rhamses is of life-size, the other figures are in miniature ; colossal head of a ram in sandstone ; group of Horus and his daughter Muthmet (I5th cent, b.c.) ; statues in granite of Rhamses II., Meiamoun, or Rhamses the Great, or Sesostris, M^ho reigned in the 14th cent. B.C.) ; foot of a colossal statue of Menepthah, or Amenophis, son of Rhamses the Great ; colossal statue, in red sandstone, of Seti or Se Ptah, son of Menepthah (it was in his reign that the Exodus of the Jews took place) ; two colossal Sphinxes, in sand- stone, from before the palace at Karnac, erected in the 17th cent. b.c. ; *bilingual inscription on a slab of granite, in demotic and Greek cha- racters, containing a decree of the priests in honour of Callimachus during the reign of Cleopatra and of Ptolemy Csesarion, her son by Julius Csesar (b.c. 44) ; circular altar, dedi- cated to several divinities — probably of the 28th dynasty, in the 5th cent. b.c. ; figures of Osiris, Isis, and Horus, the Egyptian trinity, in a single piece of red granite. Several models of Egyp- tian ruins and temples. In the 3rd Hall on the ground-floor, Gr§ek and Boman statues and busts. A Sleeping Cupid or Genius is per- haps the finest object; it is supposed to be Greek, although some consider it a copy made in the 16th cent, of an ancient work; colossal Oracle Head of Juno, found at Alba, in Piedmont, hollowed out behind, and intended to be fixed to a wail, so that the priest could deliver answers to devotees with- out being seen ; black marble statue of Diana ; black marble bust of Circe or Medea, with illegible letters on it ; a head of Antinous ; busts of Ves- pasian and Julian ; statue of Augustus, found at Susa. At the extremity of this Hall is the collection of Ancient Roman Bronzes, with'a col- lection of silver vessels discovered in Savoy, some with reliefs in the handles. Roman inscription on bronze, found at Industria (Rte. 2); an elegant tripod, with brazier, and the much- injured *statuette of a kneeling Faun, found at the same place ; bronze *statuette of Minerva, found, in excel- lent condition, in 1829, in the bed of the river Versa, near Stradella ; a few engraved Greek paterse ; several small Roman bronzes and utensils from Industria. Good bust of Agrippina, Nero's mother, and a bust of young Caligula. In this hall are some large specimens of ivory carvings by a German artist of the 18th cent. ; they represent the Judgment of Solomon and the Sacrifice of Abraham, and are more remarkable for their size than for their artistic sculpture. Finally, an indifferent collection of Etruscan vases from the S. of Italy, and a *series of earthenware vessels of the Roman period from the ruins of Pollentia (Rte. 6); a long series of Phoenician Divinities, and figures in bronze from the Island of Sardinia, &c. On the second floor are smaller ob- jects of the Egyptian collection. In the first, or Jong saloon, is a very inte- resting series of human mummies (the hair perfectly preserved in many in- stances), with their cases, some highly decorated ; on the walls numerous papyri, and below, several smaller Egyptian statues, votive tablets, &c. ^ In the middle of the second Hall is the Isiac Table, a tablet in bronze, measuring 4 ft. 2 in. by 2 ft. 5^ in., covered with sunken Egyptian figures and hieroglyphics, part of the outlines being filled with silver — forming a kind of Niello. It seems to have been first discovered on the Aventine at Rome, near where a Temple of Isis once stood, and it was given by Pius III. to a son of Cardinal liembo. Having disappeared during the pillage 2 20 Boute 1. — Turin: Museum of Natural History. of Rome by the Coimetable de Bour- bon, it was re-discovered in 1709, at Turin, amongst some lumber ; it was carried off to Paris in 1797, and re- stored to Italy at the Peace. The Isiac Table is interesting, as being one of the first objects of Egyptian antiquity in recent times that led to serious investigations as to the meaning of hieroglyphics ; but it is now clearly as- certained that these have no meaning at all, being pseudo-Egyptian produc- tions extensively fabricated during the reign of Hadrian. In this room are several glass cases containing Egyptian ornaments of every kind ; a complete collection of the smaller divinities in terra-cotta, enamel, and glass ; a series of nearly 2000 scarabsei with inscriptions ; amulet, and some beautiful specimens of jewellery, mounted with precious stones ; whilst in presses around are several mum- mies of monkeys, cats, heads of f Ives and bulls, of the ibis, falcons, croco- diles, and of several species of fishes from the Nile. Articles of food: bread, corn, eggs, onions, dates, &c. — even to ducks ready for the spit of some Egyptian chef 3000 years ago. Clothing for the dead : masks to cover the faces of mummies ; sandals, upon the soles of which are painted captives— some negroes, others Jews — with their hands bound; a singular mode of expressing a post- humous triumph. Amongst the numerous illustrated Papyri hung on the walls, two are re- markable ; the celebrated Book of the Kings, first published and ably illus- trated by Sir Gaiduer Wilkinson, and a funerary roll, 40 ft. in length (illus- trated by Dr. Lepsius, of Berlin), on which is represented the trial of a Soul before the tribunal of Amentis. Osiris is seen acting as President, and the divinity Tot as Secretary, with a court of 42 judges, before Avhom the goddess of Justice leads the accused Soul. In the smaller room leading from the second Egyptian Saloon is an extensive series of steles, or votive tablets, some of which are said to belong to as remote a period as the 8th dynasty, at least 30 centuries b.c. Numismatic Collection. — Attached to the Section of Antiquities is the Cabinet of Medals, consisting of a col- lection bequeathed by Cavaliere Lavy to the Academy of Sciences, of others added by the King, and modern acqui- sitions. It contains 25,000 specimens, of which 5000 are Greek, 6000 Roman, and the rest mediajval and modern. It is not shown except by special per- mission. The Museum of Natural History, in the Palazzo Carignano (open daily, 1 to 4), contains a good collection of minerals, including specimens from Savoy and the valleys descending from Mont Blanc. The geological and palseontological collections are very extensive as regards the Piedmontese territory, having been formed by Pro- fessor Sismonda during his labours for tlie geological map of the continental portion of the kingdom, and by General Alberto della Marmora for that of the island of Sardinia. A series of the j rocks traversed by the great Alpine { tunnel between Modane and Bardo- ' necchia has been placed here. There ! are also some large meteorolites, and 1 the specimens of diamonds, the gift j of Signor Falco in 1872, are interest- ing. Among the fossil organic re- mains of the tertiary formations of the Moutferrat, is the skeleton of a Mastodon, found in a fresh-water deposit near Baldichieri. The skeleton i of the Megatherium, from Buenos Ayres, is the most perfect hitherto dis- covered. Another is of the Glyptoond, from the same country. The series of birds of Piedmont in the Zoological department is particularly good. Museum of Artillery (Museo Na- zionale d'Artigleria). A valuable Col- lection of pre-historic and ancient Arms, formerly in the Arsenal, but at present in course of rearrange- ment, and invisible. Unitersita Re ale (D. 3), erdfted in 1713, by Ricca. The Universities ■ of Turin and Genoa formed the two great educational establishments of the Sardinian monarchy. There are Boute 1. — Turin: Bihlioteca Nazionale. 21 upwards of 80 professorships, and about 2000 students. The square court shows the effect produced by columns encircled by bands, storey above storey. Under the portico are placed a number of Roman inscribed stones, reliefs, and statues discovered in Piedmont, among which are two mended torsos of men in armour found at Susa. Many of the inscriptions and monuments are sepulchral. Upon the cippus of Quintus Minutius Faber, a wheelwright, he is represented, below, working upon awheel ; and at the top, lying in bed. The inscription on an altar raised to an almost unknown divinity by a certain Sempronia Euty- chia, does not speak well for the modesty of the devotee. There are also several mediaeval inscriptions ; some of the times of the Lombard kings, Grimoald, Aripert, and Lothair. Bihlioteca Nazionale, 17, Via di Po, This valuable Library (8 a.m. to 6 P.Bi. from May to Nov., 9 to 4 and 7 to 10 P.M. from Nov. to May) con- tains about 200,000 volumes of printed books, and 4000 MSS., many of which belonged to the Dukes of Savoy. It was placed here by Carlo Emanuele I. ; and many collections have been succes- sively added. Calusio, the author of the Hebrew Concordance, bequeathed his Oriental manuscripts to it ; and it contains a part of those from the Bene- dictine monastery of Bobbio. These latter are very ancient and authentic. A large collection of the Greek writers on alchemy, mostly inedited. A manu- script of the * De Imitatione Christi,' the celebrated work commonly attri- buted to Thomas a Kempis, but writ- ten more probably by Gersen, abbot of the Benedictines of Vercelli, who lived a centuiy before. This codex was found in a Benedictine convent at Arona in 1604. Several Bibles, from the 10th to the 16th cent., some cu- riously and richly illuminated ; a Catena Patrum, probably of the 9th cent., with portraits of the 12 minor prophets, interesting for the time when they were executed, showing the long prevalence of Roman art. A Book of Offices, with miniatures of the Flemish school, of great beauty; four or five seem to be by Memling. (" I know of nothing so fine in this class of art — the Kiss of Judas is a marvel of its kind." — H. A. L.) Seyssel's transla- tion of Appian, illuminated, with a portrait of himself presenting the work to Louis XIL Hebrew MSS., several inedited. ACCADEMTA AlBERTIN A DELLE BeLLE Arti (E. 3). This Academy derives its name from King Carlo Alberto, a liberal benefactor. Here are schools for drawing, painting, &c., and a collec- tion of 256 pictures, of which very few are of much value. (Open daily, 10 to 4, fee, 2 fr.) 104, Jordaens, Dying Martyr ; 107, Schedone, Holy Family; 108, Rubens, The Youth of Bacchus ; 127, Macrino d'Alba, Two Saints and the Dor^^tor ; 128, Defendente Deferrari, Nat->ity: 132, Franeia, St. John the Baptist ; 140, 141, Filippo Lippi, Four Saints; 153, Kaphael, Madonna di Loreto — an old copy; 160, Jan Mabuse, Lady "Writing ; 174, Boman- elli, St. Cecilia : 201, Sassoferrato, Madonna ; 220, Giovenone, Nativity. There are also some valuable car- toons, by Gaudenzio Ferrari and Lanini, and one, by Leonardo da Vinci, of the well-known Vierge aux Eochers, at the Louvre. Industrial Museum (Reale Museo Industriale Italiano), in the Via dell' Ospedale (E. 4), close to the Exchange. An extensive collection, formed at great expense by the present Govern- ment; and consisting not only of machines and models, but of manu- factured articles, mineral productions, plans, &c. Open on Sun. and holidays, 12 to 4; on other days, 9 to 11 and 2 to 4. Collections on the 1st floor, Thurs., 1 to 4. MusEO Civico (E. 3), founded by the municipality in 1863, chiefly for objects of local interest. (Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 3, free ; on other days, 9 to 4, 50 c.) On the upper floor is a suite of 12 rooms, three of which 22 Boiite 1. — Turin: Tlieaires ; Charitable Institutions. are occupied by a miscellaneous col- lection comprising busts, majolica, glass medals, nielli, illuminated books, ivories, wood carvings, and autographs. Here may be seen in wall cases 6 fragments of reliefs from the tomb of Gaston cle Fuix (see Milan, Brera) ; also a collection of medals of tlie sovereigns of Savoy and Piedmont — of coins struck at the different mints of Italy— a collection of autographs of the sovereigns of the house of Savoy down to Charles Albert in 1849 ; of the great men of the country, including Lagrange, Plana, M. Azeglio, Cavour, Botta the historian, Silvio Pellico, a part of Ariosto's comedy of ' Caprana,' some illuminated ]MSS., amongst others a good copy of the Grimani Breviary, in the library of St. Mark at Venice, and the statutes of Turin in the 13th cent., old books, &c. In one room is a head of Sappho by Canova, with his receipt for it to the purchaser in 1820, of 440 Roman scudi. Here also is a collection of all Bodoni's type print- ings, with his likeness. Then follow 7 rooms with oil-paintings by modern Italian artists. In the llth are water- colour drawings, and in the 12th a display of Italian pottery, and a few old pictures, including a Coronation of the Virgin by Bart.Vivarini (1473), a Madonna by Bugiardini and Sasso- ferrato, and a large picture of Eebecca receiving the gifts of Isaac, by Jan Victors. A descent of a few steps on the rt. of the entrance leads to a Col- lection of wood-carvings, sarcophagi, models, and architectural fragments. Outside in a Court is a model of the Bucentaur (see Venice, Arsenal), with two medallions in Robbia ware of the Savoy and Turin arms, borne by genii, and surrounded with coloured festoons of fruit. The Museo Storico Nazionale (E. 3), a conspicuous and lofty building, was designed as a Synagogue by Antonelli in 1863, but is now being fitted up as a Museum in commemoration of Italian unity. It forms an oblong block, with a high tower, the princi- pal part of brick, with a Corinthian granite portico, and a corridor of granite columns above. It is built of the plan of Herod's Temple of Jeru- salem as laid down in the Talmud. The cupola is of singularly bold con- struction, and the entire height of the building is 360 ft. THEATRES. The Teatro Eegio, in the Piazza Castello, will hold 2500 persons (en- trance 3 fr.), and is open during the Carnival. It was built from the designs of Count Alfieri, uncle to the poet, and was the building which made his reputation as an architect. Born at Rome, he was educated as an advocate ; but his love for architec- ture soon induced him to abandon the bar. Having been employed at Tor- tona, when Carlo Emanuele 11. passed through that town, the monarch was so pleased with his work, that he took him into his service and afterwards appointed him Court Architect. Teatro Carignano, open for operas and ballets during the autumn, and for comedies in the spring and summer, was also designed by Count Alfieri; and here the earliest tragedy of Vit- torio Alfieri was first represented. T. Vittorio Emanuele, in the Via Ros- sini (E. 3), the largest in Turin. Operas, ballets, &c. Teatro d'An- , gennes, near the Post Office, remark- \ able for the good arrangement of the i scenes and stage. French plays are ; frequently represented here. There are also two theatres of Fantoccini. The Piedmontese claim the honour of being the inventors of puppet-shows, which are carried to high perfection in the performances of these wooden com- panies. The buffoon character Gian- duja is of Piedmontese origin, as Arlecchino is Bergamasque. There are several popular Theatres, and a Hippodrome. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. The Eitiro delle Eosine, near^he Post Office, was founded by Rosa Govona, a poor girl of Mondovi, who, in 1740, collected a number of other girls of her own class for the purpose Iioute\, — Turin: Enviroiis ; Excursions. 23 of living as a semi-religious com- munity, maintaining themselves by their own labour. She settled in Turin, under the patronage of Carlo Eman- uele III., and dying in 1776, was buried in the simple chapel of the Eitiro. This establishment contains about 35U inmates ; the income, which arises entirely from the work of the inmates, amounts to 80,000 francs, with which they are comfortably main- tained. Over the principal entrance is engraved the appropriate inscrip- tion — Tu vivrai del lavoro delle tue inani. There are several houses of the Bosine in other parts of North Italy. The Reale Albergo di Virtu, an in- dustrial school, was founded in 1587, by Carlo Emanuele I. The Eegio Manicomio, a Lunatic Asylum, has about 500 inmates. The patients are judiciously managed, and many of the improvements in the treatment of these unfortunate persons recently adopted in England and France have been long practised here. The Casa della Divina Providenza, founded in 1828. The Grande Ospedale di S. Giovanni (E. 4), founded in the 14th cent., re- ceives annually 6000 patients. Its revenues before the French invasion were very large; and now, partly from estates, and partly from volun- tary contributions, they amount to about 300,000 francs per annum. The clinical school and the anatomical theatre attached to the University are here. In front is the Military Hospital. ENVIRONS OF TURIN. For Steam Tramways, see Index. Cemetery [in summer, 3 to 8, in winter, 12 to 4 ; Carriage there and back, I5 fr. Steam Tramway from the Piazza Era. Filiberto, passing the Begio Parco, and going on to Settimo (p. 25).] — The *Campo Santo is ^bout a mile beyond the bridge over the Dora (D. 1 ). It consists of a large octagonal space, surrounded by a high wall, and an inner portion by arcades, containing numerous sepulchral monu- ments, with a row of vaults beneath. Among the monuments of interest are those of Yincenzo Gioberti ; Gen. Bava, the hero of Goito ; Gen. Provana di Collegno, the geologist, with a touching inscription by his widow, and a good figure of the lady weeping over his sword; Drovetti, to whom Turin owes its Egyptian Museum. The monument of the Marchesa di Monforte by Bruneri, and that of Elizabetta Marchionni, deserve notice, as well as Vela's statues of Hope and an Angel carrying an infant to heaven. In the outer ground is interred Silvio Pellico (1854 j, with a tasttless pyra- mid of white marble. The Protestant cemetery is at the extremity of the general burying-ground, but separated from it by a wall. The Capuchin Convent stands on a hill (F. 4), overhanging the right bank of the Po. Funicular Ely. to the summit, 15 c. The view hence across the river and city to the Alps, including Monte Viso, is very fine, and best seen by morning light. The local Tourist Club has established here an Exhibition (Mused Alpino) of Italian sub-Alpine Industries. (Adm. 25 c.) La Vigna della Regina (Queen's Vineyard), once a royal residence, but now used as a school for the daughters of military officers, stands a little above the Church of the Gran Madre di Dio. It was built in 1650 by Viettoli for Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, when he had ceased to be a cardinal, in order to marry his niece Lodovica, the daughter of Vittorio Amedeo I. The Tramway lines are very nume- rous, and mostly start from the Piazza Castello. Fare, 10 c. a course. excursions from TURIN. The *Superga (officially called Sojjerga) is reached by steam tram- k 24 Boiite 2. — Turin to 3Iilan. way from the Piazza Castello to (30 min.) Sassi (1080 ft.), and thence by Funicular Ely. in 30 min. to the sum- mit (2555 ft.). The latter line is very nearly 2 m. in length, passes through two tunnels, and is constructed in bold cui-Aes, with an average gradient of 13.3 in 100. The Basilica was begun by Juvara in 1717, and completed in 1731, for Duke Vittorio Amedeo II., in the ac- complishment of a vow made previous to the great battle of Turin, gained by the German allies under Prince Eugene over the French. On the 7th Sept., 1706, Amedeo advanced with Prince Eugene from Chieri ; and taking their station upon the svmimit of the Collina, they looked down upon his capital blockaded by the army of Louis XIV. Vittorio vowed to erect a church here in honour of the Virgin, " if it should please the Lord of Hosts to grant him and his people deliverance from the hands of the enemy ; " and the victory gained over the French was the salva- tion of the house of Savoy. The name of Superga is said to be derived from its situation, ^wper terga montium. The interior is circular, with 6 ellip- tical chapels : 8 pilasters, and an equal number of columns, support the cu- pola, of good proportions, flanked by elegant quadrangular bell - towers. Through the intei-pilaster, opposite the principal entrance, is the access to a large octangular chapel, at the ex- tremity of which is the high altar. The exterior flight of steps is con- tinued all round the building. The portico of 8 Corinthian columns is fine. The high altar is decorated with a profusion of statues and reliefs, one representing the siege of Turin — Vittorio Amedeo, Prince Eugene, and the Duke of Anhalt pursuing the enemy. The subterranean Church is in the form of a Latin cross, and contains the remains of most of the members of the royal house. King Carlo Felice alone having been interred at Haute Combe in Savoy. The monument of Vittorio Amedeo II. is decorated with allegorical figures in the taste of the Jast cent., and that of Carlo Emanuele TIL, with a relief of the battle of Guastalla by Collini. In the centre of the cross, the place always occupied by the last-deceased sovereign, stands the temporary monument of Carlo Alberto, whose body was deposited here in 1850, when brought from Oporto. The halls and staircases are grand, from their proportions and rich marbles, and the solid decorations of the architect. Portraits of the Popes, the majority of course imaginary, are placed in the apartments appropriated to the sovereign, who visited the Su- perga annually, upon the 8th Sept. (Nativity of the Virgin). On this day is still held an imposing Service of Thanksgiving. A congregation of secular priests, endowed by the State, and selected from among the most meritorious of the parochial clergy, remain in charge of the building. From hence there is a fine *view of the Alps, extending from Mont Viso at the extremity of the Cottian portion of the chain to the Simplon, including the whole of the Graian and Pennine Alps, with the beautiful hills of Mont- ferrat below, the plains of Lombardy, and the spurs of the Apennines be- yond. The hill of the Superga consists of miocene strata of green sand and marl, with a conglomerate of pebbles, mostly of serpentine. They are inclined at an angle of more than 70°. The various Excursions among the neighbouring Alps are described in the following Eoutes, 2-7. ROUTE 2. TUEIN TO MILAN, BY TERCELLI, NOVARA, AND MAGENTA. — RAIL. IMiles. Stations. Routes. Turin . . . 1, 3, 6, 7 3 Turin Porta Snsa 8 Rivoli 5 Turin Succursale 11 Settimo .... 4 ^ 15 Brandizzo 18 Chivasso. . . 5, 15 22 Torrazza di|Verolan 30 Livorno Verceilese Boute 2. — Settimo—CJiivasso. 25 Miles, 36 37 41 49 52 63 69 77 80 85 94 Stations. Tronzano SantMa . 19 Biella S. Germano Vercelli . Ponzana Novara . Trecate Magenta Vittuone Rho . . Routes. 16,56 14, 20, 21 33 Milan 18, 32, 53, 54, 101 Views on the 1. On leaving the Central Ely. Stat. the line curves round the city to reach the W. Stat, by the Porta Susa (A. 4), crosses the Dora Riparia, and arrives at the Stazione Succursale. It then crosses the Stura, and runs parallel to the 1. bank of the Po. The Superga rises finely on the rt. [Branch line W. from Porta Susa Stat, to Rivoli ( 5600). Above it towers the great unfinished palace begun by Juvara. Here Vittorio Amedeo II. was confined during the short interval which elapsed between his attempt to re-ascend the throne and his death. He had abdicated (1730) in favour of his son Carlo Eraanuele III., and had retired to Chambery, but in a short time he grew weary of private life, and formed a scheme for repossessing himself of the royal authority. Some say that he was instigated by the Countess of Sommariva, for whom he had renounced the crown, and whom he married immediately after his abdication. He was seized, brought to Eivoli, and kept in what was equi- valent to solitary confinement. His attendants and guards were strictly prohibited from speaking to him; and, if he addressed them, they main- tained complete silence, answering only by a very low bow. He was afterwards permitted to have the company of his wife, and remove to another prison; but on the 31st of Oct., 1732, he died. He was a wise and good monarch ; and in his person the house of Savoy obtained the island pf Sardinia and the regal title. There are many pictures in the Palace — a collection of views in Piedmont by the brothers CignaroU, landscapes by Vanloo, and a series of historical scenes from the lives of Amedeo VII. and VIII., Counts of Savoy. The country around Rivoli is very healthy. Hence the town and its vicinity abound in villas. An avenue of pollard elms, about 6 m. long, connects Rivoli with Turin, the distant extremity of the vista being terminated by the Superga.] The main line proceeds N.E. to 11 m. Settimo Junct.,atown on the rt., bearing in its name the reminis- cence of its Roman origin, ad sep- timum. [Branch Rly. N. to Rivarolo.'] 1.5 m. Brandizzo (1490), on the rt., is of great antiquity. It is noticed in the ancient itineraries as one of the stations where pilgrims to Jerusalem were accustomed to change horses. The Malone and Oreo torrents are crossed near their confluence with the Po. 18 m. Chivasso Junct., on the 1. bank of the Po (9000), was long con- sidered as the key of Piedmont, and in 1798 it opposed a considerable resistance to Marshal Joubert when executing the decree of the Directory, by which he was ordered to dethrone the House of Savoy. The fortifications were destroyed by the French in 1804, when their possession of Lombardy placed Chivasso in the midst of their territory. Chivasso was the ordinary court residence of the Marquises of Montferrat, who, as sovereigns, held so conspicuous a place in the me- diaeval history of Italy, though Casale was their capital. One of them was taken prisoner near Alessandria, and imprisoned in an iron cage, where he died in 1270. The Marquis Gio- vanni, surnamed the Just, and much loved by his people, died here in 1305. He had been attended during his malady by Manuele da Vercelli, a physician of great reputation, who followed as one of the mourners. 26 Houte 2. — Monteu Po — Santhia, Suspicions had been spread that the doctor had neglected or made away with his employer ; the people rushed upon him and literally tore him in pieces. The Marquis Giovanni had no children, and his dominions de- volved to his sister Violante (Irene, the Greeks called her), Empress of the East, and wife of Audronicus Comnenus Palreologus. Their second son, Teodoro, was selected to exercise his mother's rights, and in his person began the dynasty of the Montferrat- Palajologi, which became extinct in 1553. The Church of San Pietro dates from 1425. The front is deco- rated with ornaments and statues in terra-cotta, of great elegance, but much defaced. The remains of the ancient palace, or castle, of the Counts of Montferrat, consist of a high tower, upon the summit of which grow two mulberry-trees. Chivasso is celebrated for its lampreys. 2 m. S.E. are the Baths of S. Genesio, much frequented in the summer. Steam Tramway S.W. to (14 m.) Turin, E. to ^9 m.) Brusasco. Dil. S. to (6 m.) Monteu Po, on the site of the Roman station of Indudria. This city, mentioned by Pliny and other ancient writers, had been lost until 1 744, when the discovery of re- mains in the neighbourhood led to further excavations, which yielded many of the finest objects in the Museum of Turin. [Rly. N. to Ivrea, and thence N.W. to Aosta.'} 22 m. Torrazza. Beyond this Stat, the Dora Baltea, descending from Mont Blanc, is crossed. 30 m. Livorno (550), not far from which, on the 1., is Cigliano. The old Church is interesting. Monte Rosa begins now to appear in great magni- ficence ; and the pyramid of the Mat- terhorn is seen at the head of a valley. 36 m. Tronzano. The Church near the Stat, has a good tower of the 15th cent. j 87 m. Santhia Junct. Buffet (5000). I There is an altar-piece by Gaudenzio Ferrari in the Church, which was re- stored in 18G2. [Branch Uly. N. to Biella (1420 ft.), on the Cervo, one of the aflfluents of the Sesia. The town (10,000) and district have important manufactures of cloth and wool. Biella is divided into Lower and Upper Town (Piano and Piazza). The latter, which is reached by funicular Rly., has a handsome Hydropathic Establishment. The Cathedral of St. Stephen, in the Lower Town, dates from the l.'ith cent. Near it is the Bishop's palace. Dil. N.E. to Varallo (Rte. 20), in cor- respondence with the morning train from Turin. Places can be secured either at the Central Rly. Stat, in Turin, or at Santhia. Steam Tramway E. to (7 m.) Cossata, and (27 m.) Vercelli. From Biella, omn. by a steep but good carriage-road in 2^ hrs. to the '8 m.) pilgrimage Church of the *Madoima d'Oropa, where is a mira- culous image, said to have been carved by St. Luke, brought by St. Eusebius from Syria, and preserved by him in the then wild and desert mountain of Oropa. A series of zigzags leads to the Church, which is of the 14th and 15th cents. At the angles, in the ascent, there are more than twenty- four Chapels, about half of which con- tain life-size figures in coloured terra- cotta, by Aureggio of Biella. The 7th (Cappella Dimora) represents the So- journ of the Virgin in the Temple, and is called by Mr. S. Butler a Medieval Girl School; the 13th, which is the best in point of Art, is the Marriage Feast at Cana. At Oropa is a fine Hydropathic Establish- ment, much frequented in summer. There is a similar Establishment, and a large Sanctuary, at Graglia (2h hrs. W. of Biella), and another Esta- blishment at Cossilla, 2 m. from Biella on the road to Oropa. The densely - wooded hills near Biella offer a variety of excursions. o| m. N. is Andorno, a charming sumpier resort ; and 2 hrs. further N.W. is the beautifully situated Sanctuary of San Giovanni, in the Valle d' Andorno. Higher up the valley is the modej Route 2. — San Germano — Vereelli. 27 village of Rosazza (2910 ft.), 10 m. from Biella. The last village is Piedi- cavallo, 9 m. from Andorno, whence the Cima Bo (8435 ft.) may be as- cended in 5 hrs. Mule path in 7 hrs. to Gressoney, 10 hrs. to Alagna.] The Cavour Canal is crossed a short way before reaching the next station. This important work receives the water of the Po at a short distance from Chivasso ; 6 m. after leaving the Po it crosses the Dora by an aqueduct 2500 yds. long, and passes successively under the other rivers descending from the Alps by siphon tunnels before emptying itself into the Ticino, be- tween Galliate and Cuggiono ; nearly 51 ft. in length, it cai'ries about 4000 cubic ft. of water in a second, and distributes it over 300,000 acres of formerly unproductive land, increasing its rental from 300,000^. to 750,OOOZ, sterling. Commenced in 1863, the total cost of the construction has been estimated at nearly 5,000,000L ster- ling. 41 m. San Germano. In this neigh- bourhood the women wear a peculiar ornament in the hair, seen, with more or less variation, throughout Lom- bardy. It consists of rows of large pins (spilloni) radiating round the back of the head. Here these pins terminate in balls, either gilt, or of polished brass. Fine view of Monte Rosa. On approaching Vereelli, the dome of the Cathedral and the elegant towers of S. Andrea come into view. 49 m. VERCELLI Junct. (27,000), near the 1. bank of the Sesia, covers a large area, and the fortifications, de- stroyed in 1704, have been laid out as boulevards, of which those on the N.W. command fine view of the Alps. The * Church of Sant' Andrea, near the Rly. Stat., was commenced in 1219 by Cardinal Guala de' Bicchieri, who filled the office of papal legate in England in the reigns of John and Henry III., and whose name is con- nected with some important trans- actions during that turbulent period of our history. He was born and educated at Vereelli, and was a canon of its cathedral. Over the door on the 1. he is represented in the act of dedicating the Church, with St. Andrew ; and his merits are recorded in 11 rhyming Leonines, in the first of which, by a poetical figure, called Epenthesis, familiar to students of the Westminster and Eton Latin grammars, one word is inserted in the centre of another, for the sake of the metre : — Lux cleri patriteque decus CarGUALAdinalis Quern labor atque artes, quern Sanctio canoni- calls, Quern lex dotavit, quern pagina spiritualis. The Cardinal left all his property to this Church, and among the relics which he deposited there was the ohlationarium of Thomas a Becket. Cai-dinal Guala was a most strenuous ally of King John ; he excommunica- ted Stephen Langton and Prince Lewis, when the latter was called in by the barons of Runny mede (1215) ; and on the accession of Henry III. he was one of the ministry by whose exertions the royal authority was in a great measure supported and restored. The new monarch bestowed upon Guala much preferment, the rich benefice of Chesterton, near Cambridge, among the rest. By heavy demands upon the clergy and sequestration of the benefices and preferments of those who were opposed to him, he amassed a fortune of 12,000 marks of silver, with which this Church was raised and endowed. It is a curious mixture of the Lom- bard and Pointed styles, and has many Northern features. The pointed arches are supported by detached banded shafts, the foliation of whose capitals is deeply undercut. The Choir ends square. The interior is very beautiful, but injured by injudicious restorations and abominable glass. The windows in the chancel are pointed : those of the nave round-headed. The material of the walls is brick, with stone joints, windows, and doors ; the columns and fagade of stone, chiefly serpentine and grey limestone. The square detached Campanile, with a low spire, was added in 1399. 28 Bonte 2. — Vercelli : San Cristoforo. All the ancient tombs have been destroyed, \vith the exception of that in the corner Chapel of the rt. tran- sept, of the first abbot, and architect — Tonimaso Gallo, a French ecclesiastic (1246), upon which is a curious painting. The extensive Hospital, on the oppo- site side of the street, founded by Cardinal Guala, retains its original endowment and destination. It con- a monument to the Statesman was placed in 1864. San Cristoforo contains some good *Frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari, who was born in 1484, at Vaiallo ; but not being able to find a teacher in his native place, he came to Vercelli. Giovenone was his first master ; and so proud was he of his pupil, that in some of his paintings he signs himself " Geronimo Giovenone, maestro di tains a picturesque Cloister, with the canting device of its founder (a Bic- ! chiere or drinking-glass), a crypt-like Gothic chapel beneath the principal ward, a Museum, and a Botanic Garden. S. Bernardo, much modernised, retains some good early Lombard clustered piers, with cai-ved capitals. Passing on the rt. the Albergo Tre Jie, we reach the Piazza Cavour, where IValkcr &■ Bo2ttallsc. Gaudenzio." He afterwards studied under 8tefam Scotto (Rte. 20). The magistrates of Vercelli conferred on him the municipal freedom ; and the city where Gaudenzio was thus in- structed and adopted claims him as her own. This Church was anciently attached to a convent of the Umiiteti, and Gaudenzio's paintings were chiefly executed for two brothers of that order, Corradi and Lignone, between the years 1532 and 1534. Monte 2. — VercelU : Churches. 29 The frescoes are all more or less injured. The first damage occurred during the siege in 1638. But they suffered more from the French, who used the Church as a prison for re- fractory conscripts. In the N. transept, beginning on the 1. with the N. wall, are the Birth of the Virgin, the Annunciation and Salutation, and the Birth of Christ. Further rt., the Marriage of the Virgin, and below it the Adoration of the Magi. Many portraits are intro- duced into this composition, par- ticularly a prominent figure with a cap and feathers, holding a falcon ; the bearded king kneeling before the Virgin ; also portraits of the painter, of his master Giovenone, and of his pupil Lanini. Groups of pages, esquires, and attendants fill the scene. Between the Nativity and the Adora- tion there is a group, representing S. Catherine of Siena and S. Nicholas of Bari presenting to the Virgin and Child two novices of the Lignone family. On the E. wall, the Assump- tion of the Virgin. In the rt. transept, on the E. wall, is the Crucifixion, full of expressive figures and faces, wonderfully fore- shortened: the converted Centurion and the Magdalene are conspicuous; the former a singular figure, clad nearly in the fashion of the court of Henry VIII. Upon the adjoining wall is the history of the Magdalene, con- sisting of the following subjects: — Above, Mary the sister of Lazarus, in the Roman Church frequently con- founded with the Magdalene, is repre- sented seated, with her sister Martha, listening to the preaching of our Lord. Our Lord at the table of Sitnon the Pharisee, the Magdalene kissing His feet. A considerable part is destroyed. Below, the Arrival and Preaching at Marseilles. This and the following fresco, which are attributed entirely to Lanini, are very fine, and the best preserved of the whole. The As- sumption of the Magdalene ; her death and burial are seen in the background. One-half of the principal figure was destroyed, at the same time as the painting beneath, by a cannon-shot during the siege in 1704. Behind the high altar, in oil, Gau- denzio Ferrari, * Virgin and Child with SS. Christopher, John Bapt., Joseph, Nicholas, and two Umiliati brethren. Numerous exquisite Angel Boys play instruments and climb fruit- trees. In the sacristy is a Virgin, with St. Peter Martyr and other saints adoring the Child, by Lanini. S. Giuliano has a good Deposition on wood, by Lanini. In the great hall of the Casa Ma- riano, now the property of the Istituto delle Belle Arti, the vaulted roof and lunettes are painted by Lanini — sub- ject, the glories of Music. Here also are some frescoes removed from S. Catarina and other Churches. Up- stairs are some good pictures of the School of Giovenone, and a Gonfalone (processional banner), painted on both sides — the Virgin and Child, S. Anna, and Angels, by Lanini. The large red-brick Church of S. Agnese, in the Piazza di San Fran- cesco, has a Death of the Virgin, on wood, by Giovenone. Santa Catarina. Here is a ♦Mar- riage of the patron saint, by G. Fer- rari, with SS. Francis, Agapetus, and Anthony of Padua. San Bernardino has a fresco repre- senting our Lord about to be nailed to the Cross. The Duomo was built by Pellegrino Tibaldi, towards the middle of the ICth cent, in a good though heavy style of Italian architecture ; the cupola is more modern. The portico, by Count Alfieri, is handsome, surmounted by colossal statues of the Saviour, the Apostles, and Evangelists. The tomb of St. Amedeus in the transept was decorated with silver, at the expense of King Carlo Felice, in 1823, from the designs of Savesi, an artist of Turin. The wood-work of the choir was restored in 1822, from a design of Ranza, an architect of Vercelli. The 30 Boute 2. — Novara : Paintings. view of Monte Eosa from the roof of the Duomo is magnificent. The Library of the Cathedral con- tains MSS. of great antiquity and value, including a copy of the Gospels written by St. Eusebius, the founder of the see, in the 4th cent., and bound in silver, 5 cents, later, by o'^ier of Berengarius, King of Italy (see Monza). It is a Latin version, and supposed to be the most authentic copy of that called "Itala" by St. Augustine, em- ployed in the earliest ages of the Western Church, until its use was superseded by the Vulgate. Being older than any Greek MS. now extant, it is in one sense the most ancient copy of the Gospels existing. St, Eusebius always carried this volume about with him. Amongst the other MSS. 2ive Anglo-Saxon jjoems, including one in honour of St. Andrew, possibly brought from England by Cardinal Guala ; the Recognitions of St. Clement, a very early MS. ; but whether the work be really the production of this Apostolic Father is a question upon which critics are much divided ; the Laws of the Lombard Kings, written in the reign of King Liutprand, and therefore not later than the year 744. In the Piazza Torino is a colossal bronze Statue of Victor Emanuel, on a column and pedestal of white granite (1889). Hannibal fought his first battle with the Romans on Italian soil upon the Baudii Campi, in the neighbour- hood of Vercelli, 218 B.C., and here also (in 101 B.C.) the migrating hordes of the Cimhri, who had taken 1.3 years to spread from the Danube to the Ebro, and from the Seine to the Po, were overwhelmed and destroyed by the Roman army, 50,000 strong, under Marius and Catulus. [Rly. S. to Alessandria by Casale. Tramway N. to Fara (Rte. 20), Casale, and Aranco, N.W. to Biella.'\ On leaving Vercelli, the Sesia is crossed vipon a closed bridge of iron plates. Monte Rosa appears again in great beauty, and hence to Novara the Alps are seen in all their majesty. The effect of this mountain view is much enhanced by being seen across the great plain of Lombardy. The open face of Flanders is not more level ; and the soil, intersected by ditches and canals, teems with exuberant fer- tility. The principal cultivation be- tween Vercelli and Novara is rice. 52 m. Ponzana. Near this Stat, are seen the tall campanile, and the sin- gular arcaded tower and cupola of S. Gaudenzio at Novara. The Rly. now crosses the Agogna torrent, and soon reaches 63 m. Novara Junct. Buffet. This flourishing city (16,000) is situ- ated on slightly rising ground above the plain of the Terdoppio. Its forti- fications have been converted into charming promenades. There is no point from which Monte Rosa is seen to greater advantage, especially from the N. extremity of the street leading to the Rly. Stat. The Duomo, an early Lombard building, dating from the end of the 11th cent., was restored and modern- ised in 1862. It is damaged on the outside by neglect and weather, and the choir and transepts are masked by stucco, paintings, and gilding. The high altar has some angels by Tlior- tvaldsen. Paintings. — 3rd altar rt.. Gaud. Ferrari, Holy Family with SS. Catha- rine. Gaudentius, and Agabio, on wood. Pieta below. 4th rt., Lanini, Crucifixion, with SS. Mary Magd., Benedict, and Gaudentius. In the Passage leading to the Sacristy is an ancient plain Sarcophagus. In the Sacristy are six fine frescoes by Lanini, injured by damp : Mas- sacre of the Innocents, Marriage of the Virgin, Annunciation, Visitation, Flight into Egypt, and Adoration. Here is also an Adoration of the Magi, by Lanini; and a Last Supper, By Gaud. Ferrari, restored by Cesare da Sesto, after a fire. Opposite the 'W. door opens the octagonal *Baptistery, supported by ancient columns ; and hence the tradi- Boute 2. — No vara. 31 tion, almost invariably annexed to these buildings, of their having been pagan temples. These columns of white marble, of which 4 are fluted, are of the Corinthian orders. In the centre is a circular Eoman urn, bearing an inscription to Umbrena Polla, now used as a Font. In the recesses between the columns are representations of the Passion. The figures, in plastic work, are as large as life, and painted in gaudy colours ; and in some cases the resemblance to life is increased by the addition of real hair. They have been attributed to Gaudenzio Ferrari, bat, if so, they do little honour to him as compositions, although many of the figures are of fair workmanship. The two finest gi'oups are the Garden of Olives, and the Scourging of our Lord, both on the rt. The Archives of the Duomo contain some curious specimens of the anti- quities of the Lower Empire and the middle ages, and some very old docu- ments. There are two fine *ivory diptychs : on the first the consul is represented at full length, under a spe- cies of cupola supported by columns ; the second bears the bust of a consul, and contains a list of the bishops from Gaudentius to William of Cremona, in 1343. The Library of the Seminary, which is open to the public 3 days a-week, contains about 12,000 vols. Behind the Cathedral to the E. is a Cloister fitted up with Inscriptions, and various fragments of Eoman buildings, found in the neighbour- hood. The Duomo of Novara is known in Italy as a distinguished school for Church-music ; and the office of Maestro di Capella has usually been given to eminent composers. In more recent times the place has been held by Generali and Mercadante. The Church of San Gaudenzio, the patron saint of Novara, and its first bishop, was entirely rebuilt by Pelle- grini in 1577 ; the sepulchral chapel of the patron saint is very magnifi- cent: the high altar, erected in 1725, betrays the bad taste of that time. In the second chapel on the 1. is one of the finest of the early works of * Gaudenzio Ferrari ( 1 51 5), in six com- partments, enclosed in a framework richly carved and gilt, also executed by the painter. Above is the Nativity and Annunciation ; below, in the centre, the Virgin and Child, S. Am- brogio and S. Gaudenzio, S. Agabio, and a canonised portrait of the Painter (on the 1.). At the sides, rt. SS. Edelcisio and Paul, 1. St. Peter and the Baptist. 1st. rt. Morazzone, Deposition ; 2ud, Moncalvo, Circum- cision ; 4th, a Crucifix modelled by Ferrari. In the Sacristy, St. Jerome, attributed to Blhera. The archives of San Gaudenzio are valuable, but are not shown. A consular diptych of great beauty, on which are sculptured two Roman consuls giving the signal for the public games, and some early MSS., are among the best. The huge oviform cupola (396;ft.) over the intersection of the nave and transepts is the work of Alex. Anto- nelli, architect of the Museo Storico at Turin. It is surrounded on the outside by a double circular Corin- thian colonnade, and commands a magnificent view. The Theatre is open for operas and ballets during the carnival and in the autumn. The Mercato, which also contains the offices of the Tribunal of Com- merce, was built from the designs of Professor Orelli of Milan. In the Square opposite is a bronze equestrian Statue of Victor Emanuel. The Ospedale Maggiore, with its cortile supported by 88 columns of granite, is also a great ornament to the city. The red-brick Castello, with its dry moat, is very picturesque, and close to it is a Public Garden. Two or three mediseval towers still stand in the centre of the town, which is further adorned by the Palazzi Bellini (where Charles Albert abdicated in 1849), Cacciapiatti, Leonardi, &c., chiefly designed by Pellegrino Tihaldi (1527-1600). A colossal marble Statue of Carlo Emanuele III., by Marchesi, has been erected in front of the Theatre, and a monument to Kins; Charles Albert, in 32 Boute 2. — Trecate — Magenta. the shape of a broken column, near the Palazzo della Giustizia, a fine build- ing of 1346. A monument to Cavotir was erected in 1863, near the Ely. Stat. [Rly. S. to Alessandria, and N. to Luino, Belliuzona, and the St. Gotthard Pass, by the E. shore of the L. Mag- giore, and to Arona on Lago Maggiore; also N.N.W. to Gozzam and Orta. Tramway to Vigevano and Biandrate."} It was near the to\vn of Novara, ^almost in its suburbs, that took place on the 23rd of March, 1849, the sanguinary action between the Austrians and the Piedmontese, which terminated in the defeat of the latter, and the abdication of the brave and chivalrous Carlo Alberto. Pressed by the democratic party at Turin, he denounced the armis- tice into which he had entered in August of the preceding year, after his unsuc- cessful campaign on the Adige and the Mincio, and he prepared to invade the Austrian territory by crossing the Ticino on the •21st of March. On the same day the veteran Iladetsky invaded the Pied- montese territory by crossing the same river at Pavia, with a well-equipped army of 60,000 men. After a hard- fought action at Mortara, on the 21st, in which the Piedmontese were worsted, the Austrians advanced upon Novara, where both armies engaged on the 2ord, the Piedmontese being commanded by the Polish General Chemowski, under the King in person, aided by his sons the Dukes of Savoy (the late King of Italy, V. Emanuel) and Genoa. The site of the battle is a little S. of the town, in the plain separating the Agogna and Terdoppio streams. The heat of the action was between Olengo and the chapel of La Bicocca, about 2^ m. S.E. of Novara, on the road to Mortara (Rte. 14). The Piedmontese retired through the town, and on the 26th of March an armistice was signed, in which Radetsky showed generosity as a victor. The whole campaign, from the crossing of the Ticino at Pavia, onlj' lasted 5 days.] Leaving Novara, the Ely. crosses the plain to 69 m. Trecate, a large village. 2 m. farther is San Martino, situated on the highest point of the escarpment on the W. side of the valley of the Ticino, which is presently crossed. The Ticino, until 1859 the boundary between the dominions of Sardinia and Austrian Lombardy, is here a fine river, with a wide gravelly bed which is frequently changing. The Ponte Nuovo, by which it is crossed on a single line of rails, is a fine work of granite from Montorfano, and has 1 1 arches ; its length is 332 yds. ; it cost 128,603L It was begun by the French in 1810, but not completed until 1827 by the two sovereigns whose territories it then joined. The Aus- trians attempted, in their retreat, to blow up the E. arches on the 2nd of May, 1859, but the French crossed it on the day following. 1 m. farther, and crossed a few hundred yards to the 1. on the old post- road by the Fonte di Magenta, is the NavigUo Grande (1177-1300) a canal which derives its water from the Ticino at the village of Torna- vento, about 8 m. higher up, after first reaching INlilan, connects the Ticino and the Po, and is remarkable as being the earliest artificial canal in Europe (vf'iih. the exception, perhaps, of that between Ghent and Bruges > The first portion ended at Abbiategrasso, and was intended principally for irri- gation. In 1259 it was continued to Milan by Napoleone della Torre, and also deepened and better adapted for navigation. It is still mainly useful for its original purpose, the country on either side being irrigated by the numerous watercourses which flow from it. 1 m. to the 1. is the village of Buffalora. 3 m. higher up the Ticino is Turbigo, opposite which Marshal MacMahon crossed the river on the 3rd of June, the first entrance of the Allied army into Lombardy in the campaign of 1859. 77 m. Magenta (6200), founded^by the Emp. Maximilian, and destroyed by Barbarossa, is in the midst of a fertile district of mulberry-trees and corn. Here was fought one of the greatest Boute 2. — Battle of Magenta. 33 battles during the war that ended by the liberation of Italy from the rule 1 of Austria. 1 A little to the W. of the stat. a I tasteless pyramidal Monument was i erected in 1862 to the memory of the i French officers and soldiers who fell in the battle. Near it are numerous ' graves, and a Chapel. After the entrance of the Austrians into Piedmont, in the spring of 1859, they advanced as far as the Dora, and to within a few miles of Turin, and con- tinued to occupy the country between the Dora, Sesia, and Ticino, covering Lombardy from invasion on the W. The Sardo-French army occupied the country S. of the Po, and especially the line extending from Alessandria to the frontier of the duchy of Piacenza, re- ceiving their supplies from Genoa, and supported by the fortresses of Alessan- dria and Casale ; menacing thus the whole line of the Po from Valenza to La Stradella, where the Lombard frontier was strongly defended. On the 28th of May, Napoleon III. commenced a flank movement, and turned the rt. wing of the Austrian army by crossing the Po at Casale; on the 30th encamping on the "W. side of the Sesia, with headquarters at Yercelli : the Austrians under Giulay holding the op- posite bank, and all the country between it and the Ticino. The Piedmontese occupied Borgo Vercelli, and attacked with success the Austrians at Contienza, Vinzaglio. and Palestro. The following day, the Piedmontese, aided by French Zouaves, gained an important victory at the latter place, the consequence of which was the retreat of the Austrians in the direction of Bereguardo and Pavia. On the 2ud of Jime, General MacMahon, having crossed the Sesia, advanced from Xovara, crossed the Ticino and esta- blished himself at Turbigo, and in the adjoining village of Hobecchetto, the Sardinian army following on the 3rd. On the latter "^day the Emperor of the French, with the Imperial Guard, moved from Xovara, by the post-road to Milan, troughh Trecate and S. Martino, at the W. extremity of the tine bridge of Boffa- lora or Ponte Nuovo. On the morning of the 4th of June took place the combined movements from Turbigo on the X., and from San Martino on the S., which ended, after a long day's N. Italy. contest, in the total defeat of the Aus- trians, and their retreat in a southerly direction, leaving the road to Milan open. General MacMahon advanced from Tur- bigo by way of Boffalora ; the Emperor, at the head of the Imperial Guard, cross- ing the Ticino by the Ponte Xuovo, parallel to the line of railway, and both armies forming a junction at Magenta. About 2 o'clock MacMahon was engaged at Boffalora. On hearing the cannon, the Emperor ordered the bridge over the Ticino to be passed, beyond which the Imperial Guard, imder Marshal Bara- guay d'Hilliers, met with an obstinate resistance, and were more than once obliged to fall back. General Cler, com- manding the attacking force, being killed. But after several hours, Mac- Mahon, having driven back the right wing of the Austrians by his flank movement on Boffalora, advanced on Magenta, which the Austrians defended most obstinately for 2 hrs. against the combined forces of MacMahon, Canro- bert, and the Imperial Guard. More than 10,000 men were put Jiors de combat, and General Espinasse, commanding the Imperial Guard, and one of the bravest oflicers in the French army, was killed. It was not until 8.30 p.m. that the firing ceased, by the arrival of the reserves of Xiel's and Canrobert's divisions, the Austrians retreating on Pobecco with the intention of recommencing the con- test on the morrow. During the contest along the line, from the Ponte Xuovo to Magenta, Napoleon's principal station was at the top of one of the large build- ings at the hamlet of Ponte di Magenta, close to the bridge which crosses the canal, or Xaviglio, about half-way be- tween the Ticino and Magenta. Accord- ing to the French bulletins, their loss, probably much understated, amounted to 3700 killed and 735 prisoners ; and that of the Austrians to 13,000 killed and wounded, and 7000 prisoners, out of 55,000 engaged on one side and 75,000 on the other. Marshal Giulay appears to have been quite imprepared for the sudden change from the bank of the Po to that of the Ticino, and was unable to bring up in time his reserves from the vicinity of Pavia and the Oltro Po Pavese to oppose the French attack in this new position. He was relieved of his command ; and MacMahon, to whom this victory was in a great measure due, was created Mar- shal of France and Duke of Magenta. D 34 Boutes 3, 4. — Turin to Lanzo and Cuorgne. 80 m. Vittuone. Near this village Desiderius, King of the Lombards, had a villa. The river Olona is crossed, and afterwards the Lura, near their junction. 85 m. Eho Jiinct., a considerable village in a productive district, Avith a large Church from the designs of Pellegrino Tihaldi (15S3), completed in 1860. The country is one con- tinuous garden of mulberry-trees, maize-fields, and meadows. 90 m. Musocco. Here the Ely. crosses the carriage-road from Varese, Saronno, and Bollate. Before reach- ing Milan, the great extramural ceme- tery of the city is passed on the rt. 94 m. Milan Junct. (Rte. 51). ROUTE 3. TUEES' TO LAXZO. Miles. Stations. Routes. Turin. . .1,2,6,7 4 Venaria Eeale 8 Caselle 13 Cirie 20 Lanzo This Ely. leaves Turin by a local Stat, near the river Dora (C. 1), and passes the chateau of Venabia Eeale, a residence of the king. The grounds are nearly 20 m. in circumference, and contain the royal stud of 200 horses, and training Btables ; it is not difficult to obtain admission. Thence the line runs N. as far as Cirie, where it bears "W., and ascends the 1. bank of the Stura to Lanzo (1500 ft.), very beautifully situ- ated at the junction of the Tesso with the Stura. Good 14th-cent. Tower. Fine view from the Eremo di Lanzo, an ancient Carmelite Convent. The *Fonte della Bocca, a remarkable bridge of one arch over the Stura, should by all means be seen. 1^ m. distant, perched on a rock, is the curious Sanctuary oiS. Ignazio. Beau- tiful drive N.W. to (10 m.) Cer.A (2355 ft.), a good centre for excursions. Koad also S.W.to (10 m.) Viu, a good point for the ascent of the Koccame- lone (Rte. 1). EOUTE 4. TCEIN TO CUORGNE. Miles Stations. Routes Turin . . . . 1 11 Settimo .... 2 20 Bo so oner 25 Eivarolo 2 Ozegna 5 Castellamonte 30 Valperga 32 Cuorgne For the Ely. from the Central Stat. (D. 5) as far as Settimo, see Ete. 2. Hence N, across the plain to Eivarolo, at the foot of the mountains. Here the line divides, the rt. branch leading to Castellamonte. [Omn. to (2| hrs.) Vico, and (IJ hr.) Ivrea.'] 1 m. E. of Ozegna (Omn. 35 c.) is Castello d'Aglie, the favourite countiy residence of King Carlo Felice. It contains a small collection of Roman antiquities, chiefly from the excava- tions made at Yeii and Tusculum by INIaria Cristina, widow of Victor Emanuel I. The 1. branch proceeds to Cuorgne, a prosperous manufac- turing towu at the opening of Val Locana. Good-carriage road ascend- ing the Oreo to (-3 m.) Ponte (1590 ft.), with a large cotton-mill, most beauti- fully situated at the junction of the Soana and Oreo, and surrounded by numerous points of view. N. runs the highly picturesque Yal Soana to (4 hrs.) Ponco (3100 ft.). The high road continues N. to (11 m.) Locana, (19 m.) Noasca, with a fine *waterfall, beyond which it traverses the striking gorge of the *ScaJare di Cereso?e^and reaches (23 m.) Ceresole (4865^ft.). Here is a well-managed Stabilimento and a favourite summer Pension. Mule-path N. to Villeneuve by the (5 hrs.) Col de la Croix de Nivolet Boute 5. — CMvasso — Dc 35 (8625 ft.), thence to (2 lu's.) Pont (7000 ft.), near which is a fine view of the Grand Paradis (13,300 1\.). 2 hrs. further isVcdsavaranche (4950 ft.), and 4 hrs. lower down Vllleneuve (p. 39). KOUTE 5. TURIN TO AOSTA AND COURMAYEUR, BY IVREA. — RAIL AND CARRIAGE-ROAD. — THE VAL D' AOSTA. Miles. Stations. Eout«s. Turin .... 1 18 Chivasso. . . .2,15 27 Caluso 29 Candia 31 Mercenasco 33 Strambino 39 Ivrea (Buffet) 20 Santhia . . 2 41 Montalto Dora 43 Borgofranco 45 Tavagnasco 47 Quincinetto 49 Pont St. Martin 61 Donnaz 53 Hone Bard 56 Verres 60 Montjovet 63 St. Vincent 65 Chatillon 68 Chambave 72 Nus 75 St. Marcel 77 Quart Villefranclie 82 Aosta Turin is described in Rte. 1, and the Ely. as far as 18 m, Chivasso Junct. in Ete. 2. Here a branch line turns N., through the valley of the Dora Baltea, to 27 m. Caluso (9000). Beyond Caluso is a short tunnel, on emerging from which a view is obtained on the rt. of the little Lake of Candia, while on the E. stretches the horizontal ridge of La Serra. 29 m. Candia (2500), rising on hills above its lake. 31 m. Mercenasco, with a restored chateau. 33 m. Strambino, with numerous villas. The curious profile of the Serra is still on view on the rt. 39 m. Ivrea (770 ft.), a walled town (11,000), at the entrance of the Val d' Aosta. The approach to it is pic- turesque, across the deep bed of the Doire, which flows below the Porte de Turin. Here large markets are held, to which cheese and other pastoral produce of the Alps are brought. The town has some cotton-icorJcs. There is an interesting old Castle, degraded into a prison, and disfigured with modern windows, &c. The battle- ments and machicolations of its brick towers remain. This city, the seat of a bishop, is the southern gate to the Val d' Aosta. It is of great antiquity, and mentioned by many ancient authors under the name of Eporedia. Strabo says that when the brave people of the Val d' Aosta were subdued, the unfortunate Salassi, made prisoners by Terentius Vari'o, were here sold as slaves by public auction to the number of 36,000. The Marquis of Ivrea was in the middle ages a powerful potentate. The hills at the mouth of the valley below the town are the moraines of an extensive glacier. The Dora Baltea (Fr. Doire) is so called to distinguish it from the Dora Riparia, which descends from Mont Cenis to Turin. [Steam Tramway S.E. to (20 m.) Santhik.] On leaving Ivrea, the Ely. crosses the Dora and passes through a tunnel. Fine view of the town and Moute Bolegno, the ancient moraine. The small isolated hills, often crowned by picturesque towers and walls of feudal castles, are pretty features of a wooded landscape which has the Alps for background. 41 m. Montalto Dora. On a mound to the rt. stands the old Castle of Mon- talto, well preserved and picturesque in form. 43 m. Borgofranco, where the valley contracts, and the scenery^ becomes more Alpine. » 2 36 Botite 5. — Pont St. Martin— Montjovet. 45 m, Tavagnasco-Settimo Vittone. Eiiiued castle on the I. 47 m. Quincinetto. Pleasing glimpse of a valley which opens to the N. 49 m. Pont St. Martin (1105 ft.), finely situated at the entrance to the Val de Lys, which runs up to the glaciers of the Lyskamin and Monte Kosa (Handhoolc for Sicitzerland). The lofty arch spanning the Lys (about 20 yards higher than the new bridge) is one of the finest Roman works of its class in the valley; it now serves as a passage to the val de Lys, the road to Aosta being carried over a modern bridge. _ After crossing the Lys, at a short distance from its confluence with the Doire, the Rly. reaches 51 m. Donnaz, where a Eoman road pierces the rock, and a milestone measures XXXII. MP. A tolerable wine is grown here. A path leads up from the Church to Dalbard, the village through which Napoleon passed part of his army to avoid Fort Bard. The Rly. now threads a defile on the 1. bank of the Dora. Tunnel under the heights of Fort Bard. 53 m. Hone Bard (1150 ft.). Fine view looking back towards the fortress which commands the valley. *rort Bard (1530 ft.) is celebrated for the check of 8 days which it gave to the advance of the French army under Bonaparte, in 1800. At that time the road ran throiio-h the village under the fort. It was the key of the valley and garrisoned by only 400 Austrians, yet such was the strength of the position that Bonaparte almost despaired of carrying it, and a few days more must have starved his army into a retreat. But this was averted by placing a ^^un above the precipices of Dalbard. Thus the French checked the battery which covered the approach to the Fort, and the army passed by night, dragging their cannon'through the street laid with straw, to prevent the noise alarming the garrison. Another gun was then raised to a belfrv which com- manded thegate of the fort ; and the Aus- trians, fearing an assault, surrendered. Upon such slight occurrences the fate of Europe turned. As the French army would have devoured all the supply of the Val d' Aosta in a few days, it must have retreated ; and the battle of Marengo, one of the most brilliant events of French history, would not have occurred. The fort has been greatly strengthened. [1. opens out the valley of Cham- porcher, through which a path leads, by the village of Font Bosd, to the Col de Champorclier, in 6 hrs., and by the Val Soana (p. 34} to Ponte in Val d'Orco (Handbook for Switzerland). 2 Above Bard the main valley is nar- row, and oflFers little variety in ascend- ing by the deep and rapid course of the Doire to 56 m. Verres (1210 ft.), situated at the entrance to the Val Cliallant (Handbooh for Switzerland). The large square keep of the old Castle overhangs the Val Challant. Fine view. There is a convent of Augustins (St. Gilles) here. 20 min. walk across the Dora is the Chateau of Issogne, built by Prior G. de Challant in 1480 : richly decorated within. It has been restored and is inhabited. To the rt. rises the pyra- midal Becca di Vlou (9950 ft.). Above Verres the valley widens, and the little plain of the Doire, covered with sand and stones, shows the occasional violence of the torrent. ijO m. Montjovet, in a deep *ravine, through which the Doire has found its natural channel. The Rly. ascends high above the river in many places, cut out of the rock, which overhangs the foaming torrent. Above are the ruins of the Castle of St. Germain, placed so as to command the pass. The very ancient pass of Mo7it Jovet, traversed by the high road, was probably a Roman work, tho¥^gh a modern tablet denies them the credit It was repaired_ by the inhabitants of Aosta. The wine in its neighbour- hood is celebrated. From the head of the pass the view doM-n the valley Moute 5. — Chamhave — Aosta. 37 is very striking. Towards the W. the finest part of the Val d' Aosta extends to the Cite', as Aosta is called. 63 m. St. Vincent, near which a re- markable broken bridge over a ravine is seen on the rt. It is called the *Pont des Salassiens, and is a Roman work. From its parapet one of the most beautiful scenes in the valley is pre- sented on looking towards Chatil- lon, including among its objects the Chateau d'Ussel and other ruins. Here is a Bath-house, supplied from a mineral spring in the chestnut-forest above, on the path to the Col de Jon, Brussone, and Gressoney. Two tunnels lead to 65 m. ChatiUon (1490 ft.). The town stands 300 ft. higher. The bridge over which the high road passes is a fine single arch, thrown across a deep gulf. From it are seen, further down the torrent, the remains of a Boman bridge, also a single, and still an entire arch ; and immediately over it another bridge, now super- seded. In the depth of the gulf, and a little up the stream, are forges, strangely placed there, for the sake of the water- power in working the tilts ; a wild path leads down to them, and the view of the bridges from the bottom of the ravine forms a striking scene. Here is the opening of the Val Tournanche and the path to the Col de St. Theodule {Handhooh for Switzer- land). To Val Tournanche, 4^ hrs., mule 10 fr. ; to Breuil 7 hrs., mule 15 fr. Guide to Zermatt 20 fr. ChatiUon and the beauties of its valley are best seen from the Church. Above is the fine Castle of Count Christin d'Entreves. On the opposite side of the Doire, the ruin of Chateau d'Ussel (14th cent.) rises in the fore- ground. Above ChatiUon the same rich scenery prevails, interrupted here and there by traces of destruction, caused by torrents. 68 m. Chambave, celebrated for its wine, one of the richest in Piedmont. The vineyards of the Val d' Aosta have a great reputation, and are cul- tivated up to 3000 ft. above the sea. Hemp, Indian corn, and fruit-trees fill the valley like a garden. A viaduct and two bridges across the Dora lead to 72 m. Nus (Nona Lapis), a poor village, with the ruins of a chateau. On the 1., opposite the entrance of the Val S. Barthelemy, is the picturesque castle of Fenis. [Three passes lead from the Val S. Barthelzmy to the Valpellina. The least difficult is that which crosses the Col de Vessoney to Oyace {Handbook for Switzerland). An easy pass, called the Fenetre de S. Barthelemy, goes from the village of the same name to Antey in Val Tournanche. The Piedmontese government-map is use- less in this district.] 75 m. San Marcel. Near this are copper-mines, and the remarkable Fontaine Bleue, impregnated with copper. 77 m. Quart Villefranche. The Chateau Quart (2485 ft.) is seen high on the mountain side ; a path leads to it from near Villefranche, and down on the other side to Aosta, both affording beautiful views. The chateau is now a hospital. 82 m. AOSTA (1970 ft.), a city of 7700 inhab., in a most striking situation,— a deep rich valley, sur- rounded by lofty and snow-capped mountains, which peer down into its squares and streets. It stands at the foot of the Great St. Bernard, on the junction of the Buttier with the Doire. A beautiful feature in the view from it is the snowy Ruitor. Aosta, the Augusta Br xtori a of the Roman itineraries, claims a high anti- quity. It was known under the name of Cordele, as the chief city of the Salassi : but its history earlier than its conquest by Terentius Varro, a general of Augustus, is not to be relied on. The Romans captured it 28 years B.C., and reduced its inhabitants to cap- tivity. Augustus rebuilt the city, as Houte 5. — Aosta : Excursions. gave it Ills own name, and a garrison of 3000 soldiers. The remains of large public buildings attest its im- portance at that time, and though much inferior in beauty and extent to those of the S. of France, they will be viewed Avith interest. In the main street at the E. en- trance of the town is a Triumphal Arch, in tolerable preservation, decorated with 10 Corinthian pilasters support- ing a frieze of Doric triglyph. It was erected in honour of Augustus, and is one of the finest of the remains. About 200 yards to the E. of the arch, in a narrow street, is a Eoman Bridge, which once spanned the ]iut- tier, though now 100 yards E. of it. It is buried to a considerable depth by soil. A conduit of water runs under it, and by its side a path ; the arch is a fine piece of masonry. The plan of Aosta, like that of other Eoman cities, was a sqviare, and the chief streets crossed in the centre. The triumphal arch stood outside the town, in front of the chief gateway. This, the ancient Porta Prsetoria, now Porte de la Trinite, is still in good preservation, though much of the cas- ing of hewn stone has been removed. It has two fa9ades, with a square space between, each fagade composed of three arches — that in the centre being much the larger. The Roman walls remain entire throughout their extent, though the masonry is partly defaced ; they are flanked with towers, some of which are perfect, and are most accessible and in best preservation on the S. side of the town. The straight wall of a Theatre is visible above the houses in the Market- place. There are three curious medifcval towers : la Tour de Bramafam, planted on the S. wall, 11th cent.; la Tour (III Leprcux, on the wall, the scene of Xavier le INIaistre's well- known tale, and la Tour des Priso)is. In the N.E. angle of the walls, in the Garden of the Nuns of St, Joseph, are remains of an Amphitheatre, con- sisting of 8 arches of the outer arcade. A street at the side of the H. de Ville leads to the Cathedral of SS. Gratus and Jucundus, of ancient foun- dation. The wide apse is flanked by two stately towers, as old as St. Anselm. The interior is very' plain. The arches rest on the original sqiiare piers. On the N. side is an apsidal chapel of the 14th cent., and a late Gothic cloister (1(336). In the choir are mosaic pavements, 12th cent. ; at the side of the altar the tomb, with mailed effigy, of Thomas II. of Savoy, Count of Flanders (1259); also tombs of several bishops. Beneath the choir is a Romanesque crypt with Koman capitals. The Sacridij or Tresor con- tains silver shrines of St. Gratus and St. Jucundus, surrounded by sta- tuettes ; a brooch for a stole, set with an antique cameo ; a silver bust en- closing a jaw of John Baptist ; and an ivory diptjch carved with a figure of the Emperor Honorius (408), and nu- merous missals. The Gothic Church of St. Ours, in the suburb E. of the town, possesses a detached Roman- esque tower and cloister, with the history of Jacob and Esau carved on the capitals : within are some fine stalls of carved oak, and attached to it is the Priory, a picturesque edifice, 15th cent., in Renaissance style, with an octagon tower, and a chamber painted in fresco, well preserved. The Hotel de Ville is the head- quarters of the Italian Cluh Alinno, to which members of foreign clubs are welcomed. In front of it is a Statue of Dr. Cerise. Aosta is the seat of a bishop and the station of a military district. Near the Stat, is a fine bronze Statue of Vittorio Emanuele, attired for the chase (1886). Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, was born at Aosta in 1033. An in- scribed stone records the flight of Calvin from Aosta in 1541. St. Bernard, whose name is immor- tally associated with the mountain pass between the valleys of the Rhone and Doire, was archdeacon of AoAa ; and his personal knowledge of the ex- posure and sutfering incidental to a passage of the Alps, led to his esta- blishment of the celebrated Hospice upon a permanent footing. I the Garden of thelS'uns of St. Josepl are remains of an AmpMtheatre, con- sisting of 8 arches of the outer arcade. A street at the side of the H. de posure and sutlenng ihcrdenxair passage of the Alps, led to his esta- blishment of the celebrated Hospice upon a permanent footing. BoiUe 5. — Aosta: Excursions. 39 EXCURSIONS. a. The *Becca di Nona, 8415 ft. above Aosta, and nearly S. of it, com- mands one of the finest panoramic views in the Alps. Mule path, 6 hrs. up, 5 hrs. down. After crossing the Doire, the path mounts rapidly to Charvensod, whence Aosta is well seen, with Mont Velan and the Combin as background ; soon afterwards Monte Rosa, and still later the Matterhorn, come into sight. From Charvensod for 3 hrs. the path lies through beautiful woods and mea- dows, with clear streams and water- falls, past the hermitage of St. Grat, the hamlet of Chamole', and over a ridge to the Alp of Comhoe, where the late Chanoine Carrel fitted up a chalet as a Refuge. Hence the path is good to the summit (10,385 ft.). From the topmost pastures the path may be easily lost, as it passes into the ravine between the Becca and Mont Emilius, as if the latter were the object of ascent ; but it is well worth while to follow it, as the direct ascent, though shorter, is very steep. The view embraces the whole range of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, toge- ther with the Velan, Combin, Dent Blanche, Weisshorn, and Mischabel ; to the S. the Grand Paradis, Grivola, &C,, and close at hand Mont Emilius (11,677 ft.). A panoramic view and full account has been published by M. Carrel at Aosta. There are other ways up the mountain ; one said to be very beautiful (1. from Charvensod) by the glen of the Dard, which at the head of the valley leaps in a cascade into a little amphitheatre under the crags of the Becca. A longer but charming expedition is to cross the mountain by the Col d'Arhole (9300 ft.) to Cogne. It can be done by sleeping at Comboe, or, in one long day, from Aosta. The course to the col from the top of the mountain (2J hrs.) is about S. and the descent to the Cogne valley lies by the Chalets d^Arpisson, most beautifully situated, with com- manding view of the Grivola. h. Pont d'Ael and Roman aqueduct, at the entrance of Val de Cogue, with view of the Grivola (2| hrs.). Carriage to Aimaville (Handhooh for Switzerland). c. Chutel Argent (2 hrs.), fine view of the valley ; La Fontaine de Silo^ (f hr.), in a gorge above Pont- Davisod. d. The Hospice of St. Bernard is about 5 1 hrs. distant, and Martigny 11 hrs. further. The inhabitants of the Pays d' Aosta speak a barbarous patois, but most of them can converse in French, more or less. The beautiful valley is afflicted with cretinism and goitre, more per- haps than any other in Piedmont. The peasantry appear a squalid and filthy race, generally stunted and diseased. Of the whole population in the neigh- bourhood of Aosta, 1 in 50 is a cretin; and above half are more or less goitred. Some of these are horrid objects, with tumours as large as their heads ap- pended to their throats. The extreme dirt of the houses, vil- lages, and persons of the peasantry would be sufficient to account for any amount of disease ; but it is remark- able that in the spots they select, these dreadful maladies seem to be capri- cious. At St. Vincent they prevail ; at Chatillon, at Courmayeur, and at La Thuile they are almost unknown ; at Ivrogne and Arvier they are most prevalent. Dil. to Pre' St. Didier (2^ frs.) twice daily. Carriage to Courmayeur, 3 persons, 15 frs. Dil. 6 fr. 6 hrs. S. of Aosta is Cogne (5000 ft.), an admirable centre for Alpine excur- sions. On leaving Aosta the carriage-road crosses the open plain through rich vegetation. 4 m. Chateau de Sarre, belonging to the King of Italy ; nearly opposite is the Chateau, d' Aimaville (Comte de Castiglione), with a turret at each angle. At St. Pierre there is a picturesque chateau, and a good view of the N. arete of the Grivola. A fine scene is presented on the approach to Ville- j neuve, where the vast rock above the 40 Boute 5. — Aosia : Excursions. town is surrounded by the Chatel- Argent, backed by the snowy Alps at the head of Val Savaranche. The river is crossed to reach the little town of 8 ni. Villeneuve, Avhere the iron ore of Cogue is smelted. Near this the valleys of Savaranche and Rhemes open from the S. Mule-path to (13 hrs.) Ceresole (see above). Above Villeneuve the valley narrows and becomes much more wooded, the walnut-trees forming in some places almost a forest, especially near 12 m. Arvier. Here the vineyards are celebrated. A bridge is thrown over the torrent of the Grisanche, which here flows into the Doire from the Val Grisanche on the S. The road enters a narrow gorge to reach Pierre-Taillee, a picturesque defile, high above the bed of the Doire. From the summit of this gorge, Mont Blanc at the head of the valley closes the scene. The road crosses deep rifts in the mountain side. The pass was once closed by a gate. The road now descends rapidly to the Doire, which it crosses, and thence continues on the 1. bank to 19 m. La Salle, a dirty narrow vil- lage, in which, however, is preserved the name of the ancient people of this valley, the Salassi ; many traces of its antiquity have been found in and around. On a hill are the ruins of the feudal Castle of Chatelard. The road crosses the Doire to 21 m. Pre St. Didier (3280 ft.), situ- ated in meadows, and commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc. [Here the ascent of the Little St. Bernard begins (HandbooJc for Switzer- land).'\ Beliind the village are some prettily placed Baths, much frequented by Italians during July and August. Beyond the baths a path leads to the mineral springs (92°) up a ravine which will remind the visitor of PfafFers. Eugged precipices nearly close the cleft in the mountains, down which the stream of the torrent La Thuile from the Ruitor and Little St. Bernard forces its way. The road makes a wide sweep, to reach Counnayeur (1100 ft.), 24 m., at the head of the Val d'Aosta, which above St. Didier is called the Val d'Entreves. The village stands at some height above the Doire, and near the con- fluence of its two branches, which descend from the Col Ferrex and the Col de la Seigne, along the S. side of Mont Blanc. To the W. is 3Iont Chettf, to the E. Mont de la Saxe, while the Aiguille dn G^ant and its glaciers, high above Mont Fre'ty, seem to close the valley. The summit of Mont Blanc is concealed by Mont Che'tif, but half-an-hour's walk dis- closes the chain from the "Monarch" to the Grandes Jorasses, and from Courmayeur the whole course of the route leading to the Col du Geant is to be traced. Courmayeur is much frequented in summer for the sake of its mineral waters. The spring of La Victoire is IJ m. S.W. ; its waters (51°) are im- pregnated with carbonic-acid gas, sul- phate of magnesia, and a little iron. La Marguerite is 12° higher. The baths of La Saxe are about 1 m. beyond Courmayeur, and some- what rough. The guides and mides were placed in 18G0 on the same footing as those at Chamouni, except that, on payment of a small fee, the traveller is able to select whom he pleases. The charges are 6 fr. a day ; 3 fr. for ^ a day. Special Tariff: — Cramont, 6fr. ; Mont Che'tif, 6 ; Mont de la Saxe, 6 ; Gl. de Brenva, 3 ; Jardin da Miage, 6 ; Col Checruit, 5 (by Lac Combal, 6); Col de la Seigne, 6 ; Orsieres, by Col de Ferrex, 12; Col du Geant and back, 12 ; Chamouni by Cols de la Seigne and Bonhomme, in 2 days 27, in 3 days 30 ; by Col du Ge'ant, 45 ; by Col de Miage, 40 ; by Col du Mont Tonolii, 25 ; by Mont Blanc, 100 each guide, a. Ascent of the Cramont. — An ex- cursion w^hich no visitor to Cour- Route 5. — Aosta : Excursions. 41 mayeur should fail to make if the weather be favourable, for no spot in the Alps will afford him so fine a view of Mont Blanc, or a more glorious panorama. Carriage-road to (3 m.) Pre St. Pidiei-, then ascend by the Little St. ^Jernard road {Handhooh for Stmizer- 'land) for about ^ hr. to a path which strikes to the rt. among the larches, and mounts through them past several clusters of chalets for about 2 hrs. Mules cannot go beyond the wood, and from this point there is about 1| hr.'s climb to the summit; total, 5 hrs. There is a more direct but difficult path for pedestrians. The highest point (90.59 ft.) is the outer edge of a large slab or flat mass of rock, sloping at an angle of 20° to- wards the S. ; the upper end of this mass actually overhangs the rocks below. In these savage cliffs chamois are sometimes seen. Hence the entire mass 'of Mont Blanc is open to the observer: from the peaks which bound the Col de la Seigne to those above the Col Ferrex, every aiguille and glacier in this line of nearly 20 m. is seen, within an angle of 150°. The depths of the Allee Blanche are concealed by some low intervening mountains, the W. bases of the Cramont. Towards the E. the Val d'Aosta forms a beautiful vista, and the Doire appears like a thread of silver. Far- ther E. rise Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn. Looking S.E., directly down the line of ascent to the Cramont, the Camp of Prince Thomas, and the table-land above the precipices of the valley of La Thuile, appear to be immediately beneath. Above and beyond them lies the glacier of the Ruitor, one of the finest objects within the view ; this is connected with the glaciers at the head of the valleys of Cogne, Savaranche, de Rhemes, and Grisanche. Towards the S. is the pass of the Little St. Bernard, guarded by the Belvedere, the Valezan, and other mountains. Towards the Great St. Bernard the course may be traced of the pass of the Serena from Morgex to St. Remy, The hospice is not visible, but Mont Vclan and the Grand Combin are seen beyond it. The traveller who proposes to make a visit to the Cramont a part of his day's journey to Bourg St. Maurice, should start very early, and direct that the mules be sent across the pasturages to chalets which lie in his way to La Balme. He will thus gain time in "ascending the valley, though the descent to the hamlet of Eleva, down a steep and rugged path over loose stones, is fatiguiug. La Balme is in the valley, about an hour's walk above the spot at which the track turns up towards the Cramont ; and there is no object of interest missed between the two places. The name Cramont is said to be a corruption of Grand Mont. h. The Col de Checruit, which affords a splendid and uninterrupted view of the chain of Mt. Blanc and the Allee Blanche, lies due W. of Courmayeur, and may be reached by- mule path in 2 hrs. Cross the Doire, pass through the village of Dolina, and along the N. side of the ravine for about I hr. from Courmayeur ; when the path ascends the side by a series of steep zigzags past a little oratory on a rock (1 hr.) ; up slopes of grass, a narrow stony path, and then pastures, is another hr. to the col (6542 ft.). The best view is obtained from a rocky eminence on the rt. No guide is necessary. [A footpath about 5 hr. below the col, leads in I2 hr. to Mt. Chetif, or BTonte Dolina, and Pain de Sucre (7671 ft.), com- manding a fine view, but not equal to that from the Cramont.] Instead of descending at once through the pine forest into the Alle'e Blanche, it is best to keep along the slope of the moun- tain above the Lac de Combal (Hand- book for Sioitzerland). Fine view of Mont Blanc and the Glacier de Miage. Guide advisable. From Lac de Combal to Courmayeur, by the Allee c. Mont de la Saxe, '2^ hrs., N.E. of Courmayeur, easily accessible. 42 Boute 5. — Aosta : Excursions. 1 comraands a glorious near view of Mont Blanc, and a prospect in some respects finer than that from the Cra- mont, but less panoramic ; the IJuitor, Grivola, and other peaks of the Cogne range are well seen. After passing the baths of La Saxe, the track to the rt., leading into the Val Ferrex, is followed for a short distance, and then the ascent begins by an easy path, which gradually reaches the summit: this is a sort of undulating plateau, in which no single point much overlooks the rest. The finest view is from the E. end, called Twsse Blanc (8i35 ft.). The Glacier of La Brenvais best ap- proached from the N. side, through the village of Entreves. From thence visit the cavern at the foot of the ice, and then ascend by a rough goat-track, which leads to a plank thrown over a torrent which is otherwise awkward to pass. Above this there is no difficulty in selecting a spot by which to mount the glacier, here free from crevasses. Immediately opposite rises Mont Peteret, a magnificent buttress of Mont Blanc, sustaining its central mass on the S. It is easy to cross the glacier and approach the base of this pinnacle, which rises nearly 7000 ft. above the spectator. The traveller may return by the enormous moraine which the glacier has borne down into the Allee Blanche, or follow the glacier to the point where it bridges over the Doire and abuts against the rocks below the chapel of Notre Dame de la Gucrison, there taking the regular path from the Allee Blanche to Courmayeur. The chapel itself, 50 min. walk from Cour- mayeur, is a splendid point of view for Mt. Peteret and the Glacier de Brenva. [By the E. branch of the Brenva Gl. and La Tour lionde, a comparatively easy pass was made to the Glacier du Geant in 1SG7.] Mont Frety, 2i hrs. from Cour- mayeur, at the southern base of the Col du Geant {Handhoolc for Switzer- land). From thence, or even from Courmayeur, a mountaineer will find no difficulty in I'eaching the summit of the Col, which is interesting, as well for the magnificent view which it commands as for its associations with the history of Alpine adventure since the time of Saussure. On this route in Aug., 1860, three English travellers and one of their guides — Frederic Tairraz, of Chamouni — were lost. The disaster arose altogether from the fact that the rope to which the tired travellers were attached was not likewise fastened round the body of each guide, but merely held in one hand. In such a position, if one or more of a party slip on difficult ground, the guides have not their arms free to use the axe, and, to save themselves, they let go the rope. From the col there is a boundless view of glaciers and mountain chains to the S., among which the Grand Paradis rises with imposing effect. Another commanding point for Mt. Blanc lies just E. of Courmayeur, opposite Mt. Chetif. This is the Col du Saiun, reached in 2i hrs. by the valley between Mts. Saxe and Carmel. Descent on the E. side of Mt. Saxe to \ the Val Ferrex. By this col the Great ! St. Bernard has been reached in 8^ hrs. i from Courmayeur. The route passes | on the rt. the Grande Bossere (10,904 | ft.), and crosses Col d'Artereva ("2^ hrs.), Col BeUecomhe (| hr.), and Col de St. Bemy (1 hr. 20 m.). For nearly the whole distance the chain of Mt. Blanc is full in view. Another fine excursion is by the Allee Blanche to the Glacier de Miage, ascending in some way, for a view of the ice cascades which circle round its head and fall a vertical height of 2000 ft. This glacier has two im- portant tributaries — the Glacier du Mt. Blanc and Glacier du Borne. Over it lies the pass of the Col de Miage (11,076 ft.), the second of the two important glacier passes between Courmayeur and Chamouni, the other being the Col du Geant. ^ It is, however, difficult, and only suited to first-rate mountaineers ; 16 hrs. are generally allowed from the Cantine de J la Vauzal, at the foot of the Glacier dSah(Zzo. The country is beautiful, dotted with villages and hamlets, and producing much silk. ,San Giovanni Battista, built by Count Alfieri, has a noble facade. Reliefs of the four Doctors of the Church adorn the entrance. Sta. Maria delle Grazie, annexed to a monastery of Franciscan friars, was endowed by the Duchess Bianca Pahcologus, wife of Duke Charles I., and contains her monument. She was the daughter of William IV., Marquis of Montferrat; as a widow, Bianca was distinguished for her gentilezza and beauty ; and Bayard, who had been brought up as a youth in the household of the duke, gained great honour in a tournament held before her in this place when she was becoming advanced in years. Carig- nano was in possession of the Duke of Saxony in 1418, and was strongly for- tified m 1510. In 1650 it was granted as an appanage, with the title of a principality, to Thomas, second son of Charles Emanuel I., from whom the present reigning family of Sardinia is descended.] IS m. Carmagnola (4000). The Church of Sant' Agostino is Gothic, though much altered. The Campa- nile, with its pointed spire, is the most unchanged portion. In the cloister are the remains of the tomb of .James Turnbull, a Scottish con- dottiere in the French service, who died here when the army Avas re- turning from Naples in 1496. The collegiate Church of SS. Pietro e Paolo was consecrated in 1514. Ca!^ magnola stood on the extreme frontier of the marquisate of Saluzzo, and, as the border town, was defended by a strong Castle, of which only one Boiite 6. — Bra — Cherasco. 45 massive toiver remains, now forming the steeple of Sati Filippo. The walls are upwards of 7 feet thick. It was built in 1435 ; and the city, when the marquis required an aid, gave him his choice, 300,000 bricks or 300 ducats. Bricks now cost in Piedmont 35 fr. per thousand. The female peasantry here are gaily dressed, wearing round their necks rows of large metal beads, often of gold, which are manufactured in the town. The name of Carmagnola is associated with the horrible orgies of the French Eevo- lution, because a large number of the recruits then enrolled were Savoyards I from this neighbourhood, but the in- i habitants most sturdily disclaim the j disgrace of being the inventors of the ' too celebrated " Danse de la Carma- gnole," the prelude to so many fearful tragedies. Steam Tramway to Turin. Here was bom, in 1389, the celebrated condottiere Francesco Bussone, the son of a poor herdsman, who became so re- nowned under the name of Conte di Carmagnola. He began his career in the service of Filippo Maria Visconti, Duke of Milan, and, rapidly rising in power, he served his master most effec- tually, regaining a great part of Lom- bardy, and of the dominions of Giovanni Galeazzo, which had escaped from his successor. Suspicions of his loyalty were entertained by the Duke ; Car- magnola was banished, his property con- fiscated, and his wife and children cast into prison. He then entered the service of the republic of Venice, by which he was appointed generalissimo. He con- quered Brescia for it from the Duke of Milan ; and at the battle of Macalo, in 1427, he entirely routed the ducal army. But the aristocracy of Venice, as sus- picious as the despot of Milan, also dis- trusted the soldier bound by no tie of allegiance ; and having seduced him to Venice by a vote of thanks and confi- dence, he was cast into prison, tortured, and beheaded on the 5th May, 1432, "between the two columns" in the Piazzetta of San Marco. The plot of one of Manzoni's tragedies is dra-nm from his life. 32 m. Bra Junct. (13,000), in the vale of the Stura. The Church of Sla. Cliiara was built in 1742 by Vettone. A fine avenue leads to the Santuario deUci Madonna de' Fiori. According to the legend, a miraculous appearance of the Virgin in the copse hard by, on the 29th of Dec, 1336, was the means of rescuing a peasant girl from the daggers of assassins ; since which event the sloe-bushes with which the copse abounds are said to flower three times in the year — in spring, autumn, and the depth of winter. Important pilgrimage on the 8th of Sept. The Grotta del Busso is a curious little Chapel, hollowed out of the tufa. The line continues in the plain of the Stura, crossing that river 3 m. farther to 36 m. Cherasco (10,000). The quadrangular form of this town indi- cates its position upon the site of a Eoman town. At each end of the principal street is a modern arch. Of the five churches, three — San Pietro, San Martino, and San Giorgio — are Gothic ; another, the Madonna del Popolo (1693-1702), has a good cupola. In the Palazzo del Comune are some paintings by Torrico. There are others in the Palazzo Gotti. They are scriptural and historical ; in land- scapes Torrico was a successful imitator of G. Poussin. The fortifications of Cherasco, once exceedingly strong, were destroyed by the French in 1801. After the battle of Mondovi, April 22nd, 1796 (Rte, 10), the Piedmontese troops fell back upon Che- rasco, and made a show of resistance. Cherasco was well provisioned, and in an excellent state of defence ; but, after very few shells had been thro-mi into the town, the garrison surrendered, not without suspicions of treachery. The Sardinians proposed a suspension of arms ; and on the 28th of April their commissioners concluded with Napoleon the " armistice of Cherasco," by which, and the treaty that followed, the King of Sardinia renounced the coalition with Austria ; ceded to the French Republic Savoy, Nice, and the whole possessions of Piedmont to the W. of the highest ridge of the Alps. Numerous organic remains are 46 Boute 6. — Narzole — Pleve. found in the tertiary marls and sands in this neighbourhood. The Rly. enters the upper valley of the Tauuro, and reaches 41 ui. Narzole. [3 m. S.W. stands Bene, on a hill near the Moudalavia torrent ; it has arisen out of the aucieut Augusta Bagienuorum, de- stroyed by Alaric, of which interesting vestiges are found at lioveglia, about half a mile off. The ruins of an aqueduct, amphitheatre, baths, &c., extend over a considerable tract of ground. To the X. of Bene is the dis- trict of'Salmour, anciently Sarmatia, so called from the Sarmatians settled there during the Lower Empire, who had a Prefect of their own. j 43 m. Monchiero. To the E. lies Dogliani (2000) upon the banks of the Eea torrent. 51 m. Carru Jimct. Rly, S.W. to Mondovu The line now turns E. to 63 m. Ceva (4500), en the rt. bank of the I'aniiro : the capital of the marquisate of Ceva, whose lords were conspicuous in the history of this part of Italy. They traced their origin to Aleramo, the hero of many a tra- ditionary tale ; but the first of whom there i<5 any real account is Anselmo, the fourth son of Boniface, Marquis of Savoua, about 1142. The place is much decayed, and its feudal towers have gone. The chief feature of the landscape is a rock towering above the town, upon which are the remains of the dismantled citadel. The Pied- montese cheese, called Eobiole, is made in this neighbourhood. [Branch Ely. S. to 7 m. Bagnasco, where we enter the Maritime Alps. The mountains sur- rounding Bagnasco are bold and pic- turesque, and the streams and torrents are limpid and beautiful. The castle was destroyed by the Marechal de Brissac in 1555. The ruins of its ancient fortifications are fine, spread- ing widely above and around. On the E. are the remains attributed to the Saracens : it is recorded that the present town was originally built with the materials of the Saracenic castle. According to an apociyphal tradition, the historian Valerius Maxi- mus was buried here. 16 m. Garessio (2000 ft.), once the capital of a small marquisate, which, in 1509, was sold to the Spinola family. (A good road, leading to Albenga, crosses the Col di Bernardo into the valley of the Neva.) Near this is the Cavern of Aleramo, where he and Adelasia took refuge with their seven sons, who, in process of time, became seven marquises. 17 m. Trappa. Ely. in progress to 4 m. Ormea, nearly depopulated by the plague, in 1630. Carriage-road onward (3m.j, Ponte di Xava, crosses the Tanaro for the last time, and ascends to the Col di Nava, the cul- minating point of the Apennines 1 3150 ft.). ^ 2 hrs. E. of the Bridge, beneath the crags of the Tanarelo, is the Source of the Tanaro, well worth a visit. From the Col the road descends into the valley of the Arrosia at 7 m. Pieve. in a lonely valley, amongst bold mountains. The prin- cipal Church has frescoes by Luca Camhiaso. The Arrosia, which is crossed on leaving Pieve, falls into the sea at Albenga. The road ascends again to cross the Col San Bartolommeo, which sepa- rates the Arrosia and Impera torrents. Here is some petrified wood. A curious patch of Serpentine is traversed on the descent to 15 m. Oneglia (Ete. 123).] The Ely. from Ceva continues E. through the Galleria del Belb^ a tunnel 3 m. long, to 74 m. Cengio, in the valley of the Bormida. Higher up the stream lies Boute 8. — Airasca to Saluzzo. 47 Millesimo (1490 ft.), memorable for the battle between the French under Augereaii and the Piedmontese com- manded by General Provera, in which the latter were defeated and forced to retire on Ceva and Mondovi, while at the same moment Bonaparte was forcing the Austrians at Dego from Millesimo. 79 m. S. Giuseppe di Cairo Junct. For the remainder to the line to 92 m. Savona Junct., see Ete. 122. KOUTE 7. TURIN TO TORRE PELLICE, BY AIRASCA. Miles. Stations. Routes. Turin . . 1, 2, 3, 6 5 Sangone 6 Nichellino 16 Airasca .... 8 24 Pinerolo 30 Bricherasio 8 Barge 33 Luserna S. Giovanni 35 Torre Pellice Leaving Turin (Rte. 1), this Ely. runs at first nearly due S., passing Sangone. On the rt. lies Stupinigi (Steam Tramway also to Turin), an unfinished royal hunting- lodge, with a bronze stag crowning the roof. It was erected in 1776, by Carlo Emanuele III. from the designs of Juvara, and is connected with the city by a fine avenue. The elevation is varied by the masses, semi-castellated in form, of which it is composed. Napoleon lodged here in his way to Milan, when about to receive the Iron Crown, and again in 1811. It contains some tolerable paintings: a good one, represent- ing Diana bathing, by Vanloo, who also painted the roof of the great hall. The views of Monte Viso, from the extensive and stiff gardens round the castle, are very fine. Steam Tramway S. to (3 m.) Vinovo. Beyond Nichellino the Ely. runs S.W.W. by AlraHca (Junct. for Saluzzo) to Pinerolo (16,000), on the Lemina, surrounded by pleasant avenues on the site of its demolished fortifications. The churches of >S^. Donato and S. Bomenico are worth a visit. Steam Tramway to (11 m. N.VV.) Ferosa ; in progress thence to Fenestrelle. From Bricherasio a branch Ely. runs S. to Barge (Rte. 8). The main line continues W. to lusema San Gio- vanni, the first Vaudois village, which is almost a suburb of Torre Pellice (Fr. La Tour cle Luserne), a thriving place, and a good centre for excur- sions among the Waldensian Valleys. (See Hanclhoolc for Switzerland.) ROUTE 8. AIRASCA TO SALUZZO. Miles. Stations. Routes. Airasca .... 7 8 Vigone 13 Moretta 10 Cavallermaggiore 9 23 Saluzzo .... 9 This Ely. runs due S. to Moretta, whence a line strikes E. to Cavaller- maggiore (Ete. 9). Continuing along the plain, we reach Saluzzo (16,000), at the foot of the Piedmontese hills. It was formerly the seat of the Marquises, who played a part in the wars of the 15th cent, in Northern Italy, but became extinct in 1548. The ^Cathedral dates from 1480. In one of the squares a Statue of Silvio Pellico, born here in 1789, was erected in 1863. Ely. E. to Savigliano. Tramway to Turin, Pi- nerolo, Venasca, Revello, and Cuneo. Eough road W, to (8 m.) Paesana^ following the Po; from thence a foot- 48 Bon to 0. — Turin to Nice. path skirting _Monte Viso to (4 hrs.) Abries, from whicli a carriage-road along the valley of the Guil leads S.W. to (11 in.) Mont Dauphin. (See Handbook for Savoy and Fiedmont.) 3 m. N. of Paesana is Barrje (Kte, 7). EOUTE 9. TUEIN TO NICE, BY CTJNEO AND THE COL DI TENDA. — HAIL AND CAERIAGE- EOiD. Miles. Stations. Routes. Turin 6 Moncalieri 8 Trofarello 18 Carmagnola . . 6 24 Racconigi 28 Cavallermaggiore . 12 33 Savigliano 10 Saluzzo . . 8 40 Fossano 15 Mondovi . . 10 44 Maddalena 47 Centallo 55 Cuneo .... 10 63 Eorgo S. Dalmazzo 66 Robilante 70 Vernante The Illy, as far as Carmagnola is described in Kte. 6. Thence the line continues S. to 24 m. Racconigi, in a pleasant situation. The Palace, restored by Palagi, was given as an appanage by Charles Ema- nuel I. to his sou Thomas, the head of the branch of Carignano of the house of Savoy. It "vvas the favourite so- journ of the late King, Charles Albert, and is still an occasional resort of the royal family. The gardens were laid out by Le Notre in 1755. Following the rt. bank of the river Maira we reach 28 m. Cavallermaggiore Junct. (5300), a flourishing town. There is hardly a vestige of the two castles and the lofty walls which once sur- rounded it. [Rly. to Bra for Ales- sandria or Savona.] 33 m. Savigliano Junct., a cheerful town, formerly fortified (16,500). In the Church are paintings by Midinari, a scholar of the Caracci, born here in 1577; others are in the Palazzo Taf- fini, representing the battles of Carlo Emanuel I. The principal street ter- minates in a triumphal arch, erected in honour of the marriage between Victor Amedeo and Christina of France. Rly. W. to Saluzzo (Rte. 8). 40 m. Fossano (16,600), on the 1. bank of the Stura, the seat of a bishop, offers a very beautiful prospect upon a lofty hill, surrounded by ramparts, and crowned by a 14th-cent. feudal castle. Within, it is singularly an- tique and gloomy. The houses stand upon ranges of low arches, contrasting strongly with the very charming walk planted with trees which surrounds the town. It is said to derive its name from some salubrious fountain, Fonte Sano, in its vicinity. The city was founded in the 13th cent., by the in- habitants of the villages of the adjoin- ing country ; burnt during the Avars of the Guelphs and Ghibellines. Con- stantly exposed to the attacks of the Counts of Saluzzo on the one side and of Asti on the other, the Fossanese placed themselves, in 1314, under the protection of Philip of Savoy, Prince of Achaia. The Cathedral, designed by Guarini, has some modern paint- ings. In the Palazzo Grimbaldi are frescoes by Giovanni Boetto, who was also a good engraver. [Branch Rly., S., to Mondovi (1810 ft.), on the rt. bank of the Ellero, the seat of a bishop, with 17,300 inhab. On a commanding hill are the Cathedral of San Donato and the principal public buildings. The suburbs of Brea, Carazzone, and Piano, are partly in the side of the hill a#cl partly on the plain below. Mondovi Avas founded in the 12th cent. Like Coni, Fossano, and several other of ihe Apenuine towns, it was a city of refuge, built by the inhabitants of the Boute 9. — Centallo — Cuneo. 49 villages of the open country flying from the contentions of Gvielphs and Ghibellines. The inhabitants go- verned themselves as an independent republic until, in 1396, they submitted to Amedeo, Prince of Achaia. Here, on the 22nd April, 1796, was fought the decisive Battle between Na- poleon and the Sardinian troops under Colli. The Sardinians occupied this strong position, while Beaulieu, with the Austrians and an army still formid- able, was in the rear of the French, and might have resumed oifensive operations. The French therefore determined to renew the attack on the following day. Colli having retreated, was overtaken near Mondovi by the indefatigable Vic- tor, who attacked and carried the prin- cipal defence of the position, and gained a decisive victory. Colli lost 2000 men, 8 cannon, and 11 standards. He retreated to Cherasco, whither he was followed by Napoleon. (See Rte. 6.) In 1799 the people of Mondovi rose against the French. This ofEence was cruelly punished by Moreau, whose troops committed acts of violence such as no provocation could excuse. 2 m. E. (Steam Tramway) is the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Vico, by Vitozzi, imitated from St. Peter's. In a chapel is the tomb of Charles Emanuel I., who died at Savigliano in 1630. This Church, a favourite place of pilgrimage of many sovereigns of the house of Savoy, is said to have cost 9,000,000 francs (360,000/.). Carriage- road S.W. to (15 m.) Certosa di Pesio (see below). 9 m. S. of Mondovi (carriage, 8 frs.) lies Fahrosa, whence a short drive leads to the *Cavem of Borsea, shown from June 1 to Nov. 2 for a small fee.] 47 m. Centallo (4900), in a fertile though not a healthy country ; re- mains of walls and towers mark its importance in the middle ages. Ro- man inscriptions are found here ; but there are no ancient buildings. 55 m. Cuneo, or Coni (1500 ft.), a city of 23,000 inhab., situated between the Stura and Gesso torrents, at their junction. N. Italy. About the year 1100, Boniface, Mar- quis of Savoy, had occupied this district, which formed a part of the marquisatc of Susa ; but his authority was entirel)' inadequate to enforce the observance of the laws or to ensme tranquillity, and the lords of the adjoining castles so plun- dered the inhabitants of the surrounding country, that they determined upon re- sistance. The people came together under the colour of a pilgrimage to the sanctuary of Our Lady of the Wood, now included in the city, and there de- termined to take vengeance, if, as usual, any of their wives and daughters were insidted by the petty tyrants of the sur- rounding castles. Cause of offence was soon given ; the peasants assembled again, destroyed the castles, slew the oppressors, and, retreating in a body to the present site of the city, a wedge of land (cuneo) between the two rivers, they began to build. The abbot of San Dalmazzo, to whom the woods belonged, gladly permitted a settlement which gave him the prospect of such a numer- ous vassalage ; and the nuova villa di Cuneo rapidly rose into consequence. In the 16th cent. Cuneo was strongly forti- fied, and its subsequent history is a succession of sieges. No stronghold was more celebrated in the military history of Piedmont, until 1800, when, after the battle of Marengo, the three consuls decreed, on the 5th July, that the fortifications of Cuneo, the citadels of Milan and Tortona, the fortress of Ceva, and the gates and bastions of Turin, shoidd all be destroyed ; and, be- fore the end of the month, those massy girdles of Cuneo were riven from their foundations, to the great advantage of the inhabitants. The Duomo is the ancient sanctuary of the " Madonna del Bosco," but it offers nothing remarkable. Sail Fran- cesco, a Church of the 12 th cent., is said to have been built in the time of the saint himself. There is a pleasant public walk at the junction of the Gesso and Stura. Steam Tramway W. to Dronero, N. to Saluzzo. [In the Alpine valley of the Pesio, 9 m. S.E. of Cuneo (omn. daily), is the Certosa di Pesio, founded in 1 1 73, in a very picturesque situation. Hy- dropathic establishment and favourite Pension.] 50 Route 9. — Borgo San Dalma^zo. On leaving Ciinco, the Ely. enters the valley of the Vermanagna, which it follows to G3 m. Borgo San Dalmazzo (4200), supposed to be the remains of the city of Pedone, destroyed by the Milanese in 1250. Steam Tramway to Cuneo. Carriage-road to (3 m. S.W.) Val- dieri (2495 ft.). Thence the road follows the Gesso torrent through a narrow glen, ascending continually for 7 m., to the Baths of Valdieri (4425 ft.), much frequented from the middle of June until the end of August. Hot springs (145° and 95°), similar in their properties to those of Aix in Savoy, are used for the baths, while the slightly saline tepid, Acqua Magnesi- aca, is drunk as a purgative. A cryptogamic plant (JJlva lahyrintlii- formis) grows in thick gelatinous masses (135° Fahr.) over the rock, down which the water flows. This substance, called Muffa, is applied to wounds and inflammations. Valdieri is situated in the finest part of the chain of the Maritime Alps, whose jagged granitic peaks, Monte Matto (10,230 ft.) and Monte della Stella (10,615 ft.), rise on either side. The shooting of chamois, &c., in this dis- trict is reserved exclusively for the king, who frequently pitches his tent in the valleys adjoining. Excursions numerous and interesting. Through the Valletta, or valley running S., a path mounts the rt. bank of the stream, passing in an hour a spot where Senecio hcdhisianus, a rare composite plant, grows abundantly. 3 hrs. fur- ther is the Col delle Cerese (8410 ft.), reached by a steep and rough track over snow and rocks. Thence a descent of 3 hrs. leads to San Martino di Lantosca (3210 ft.). Good carriage-road through (1 1 m.) BolUna, to (40 m.) Nice. From S. Martino a path leads N. in 6 hrs. to Entraque, by the Col delle Finestre (8190 ft.), and regains the carriage- road to the Baths a little above the village of Valdieri. It is also practi- cable to cross the mountains which separate the valley of the Vesubia from that of the l\oja, ascending from Rocca Bighera or BoUena, descending into the Val di Caros, and sleeping at Saorgio, or at the little village of Fontano, on the high-road to Tenda, 2 m. N. of Saorgio. These valleys may equally well be visited from Nice. [There is a road to Embrun, in France, by the Col de I'Argentiere (Larche). Leaving San Dalmazzo, it ascends the valley of the Stura by (7 m.) Demonte. Here there formerly existed a fortress, which commanded the entrance to the valley, and was memorable for several sieges in the wars between Sardinia and France. Thence up the valley to (13 m.) Vinadio, and through the ravines above Flancie, passing numerous cas- cades, to the (4 m.) Baths of Vinadio (4185 ft.), a sequestered but favourite establishment. The valley of the Stura narrows, and the road ascends to the (30 m.) Col de Larche (6700 ft.), the boundary between Italy and France, before reaching which is a small lake, the source of the Stura. The view from the Col is very fine, especially on the side of France. A descent leads from here to Larche, the French Douane, and lower down to (45 m.) Barcelonnetfe (2300), follow- ing the Vhayeite and Uhaye torrents. It was over this Col that Francis I., in 1518, carried his army of 20,000 men into Italy, under Lautrec, Trivulzio, and Pietro Novarra, before the battle of Marignan. At Barcelonnette is a bronze bust of the eloquent Deputy Manuel over the fountain in the main street. The road to Embrun descends along the Ubaye, to (60 m.) Le Lauzet ; 5 m. lower down is the village of Ubaye, from which two roads lead to (75 m.) Emhrun, one along the river to the confluence of the Ubaye and Durance, the other up the mountain- sides to the Col de Pontes, which lerffls to Savenes on the Durance, where it joins the post-road from Gap to Embrun. (This route is more fully described ttoute 9. — Bohitante — Giandota. 61 in the Handboolc for Savoy, and Em- brun in the HandbooJc for France.)"] The Ely. continues S.E. to 66 m. Robilante (2700), where it enters the mountains and begins to ascend, and the noble masses of the Maritime Alps, crowned by Monte Viso (12,645), become more clearly visible. The plains below are fertile, and nothing can be more beautiful than the little streams by which [they are irrigated and crossed. The Ely. ends at Vemante, and the old post-road over the Col di Tenda must now be followed as far as Nice. A well-engineered ascent leads to 6 m. Limone "(3640 ft.). About half-way below the summit a Tunnel 2| m. long, begun by the Princes of Savoy, but left unfinished for many years, avoids the passage over the crest, a narrow ridge (6158 ft.). It commands a very fine view of the Alps, from Monte Viso to Monte Rosa, while on the S. the Mediterranean may be faintly discovered. The Col di Tenda is noted for its high winds, but the road which crosses it is no longer used, except by pedestrians. The descent on the S. side is by a succession of 80 very abrupt zigzags down a steep continuous slope of 3000 ft. 33 m. Tenda (2680 ft.), at the S. foot of the Col; 2600 inhab. An excellent station for sketching and fishing, and a place of much note in the feudal history of Italy. From the family of Facino Cane it became vested in the unfortunate Beatrice di Tenda, wife of Filippo Maria Visconti, by whose commands she was tortured and condemned to death. (See Bi- nasco, Ete. 54.) There are some pic- turesque remains of the castle. The road from Tenda is amongst the earliest of the alpine roads. It was made by Carlo Emanuele I. in 1591 ; and improved in 1780 by Vittore Amedeo III., as commemorated in two inscriptions near its commence- ment. Fine scenery and good chamois- hunting in the mountain range W. of the Col di Tenda. 36 m. S. Dalmazzo di Tenda (2000 ft.), formerly an abbey, now a Pension, much frequented during the summer. Custom House here. [3 hours' W. are some lead-mines, at the foot of Monhego, one of the highest peaks of the Maritime Alps, which is easily ascended, and from which the view over the Mediter- ranean and the plains of Piedmont and Lombardy is splendid, embracing Turin, Pavia, INIilan, and the snowy Alps beyond.] Beyond San Dalmazzo the road be- comes exceedingly striking, and de- scends the Eoja, a torrent scarcely leaving room for a carriage to pass. Wherever the rocks allow the possi- bility of raising a wall you see a little village in the cleft, like the nest of a bird. The finest of these savage defiles of the Eoja, the gorge of Borghe, is below. 42 m. Saorgio (2600), where a fort perched upon a rocky knoll commands the passage of the gorge. It was taken by the French under Massena in the campaign of 1794. The Eoja abounds with trout. The upper portion of this valley remains in the hands of the Italians ; but the strong position of Saorgio and the valley of the Eoja is occupied by the French. The French Custom House Stat, is at Fontana, on the N. side of the pass of Saorgio. 45 m. Giandola, the first French vil- lage (1250 ft.), grandly situated at the foot of high schistose rocks, which look as if they were on the point of crushing the inhabitants. [A road from Giandola to (20 m.) Ventimiglia, along the Eoja, strikes S. through a grand gorge, and enables the travel- ler to reach the Ely. for Genoa, and proceed into Italy without making the detour by Nice or Mentone.] Our road leaves on the 1. Breglio (2700), near which are the ruins of the castle of E 2 62 HoiUe 10. — Carru to Canco. Tnvclla ; unci ascends to the Col de Brouis (2870 ft.), by a very steep incliue, the sides of which are covered with wild lavender. 58 m. Sospello (1190 ft.), a town of 4300 inhab., in a very beautiful situa- tion. Tlirough it rushes the im- petuous lievera ; and all around rise mountains out of an exceedingly fertile plain. The valley abounds in thick woods of olives and figs. The Bevera joins the Koja about 4 m. before entering the sea at Ventimiglia. [A cross-road branches off from Sospello to (14 m.) Mentone, by the Col ,di Castiglione (24U0 ft.) and the valley of Carei, passing through a very picturesque country.] Our road ascends to the Col de Braus (3800 ft.). In the autumn lavender-water is made on the sides of this mountain by the peasantry, whose rude apparatus is curious. 72 m. Scarena (2000 inhab.). After crossing another hill we descend along the Escarena, one of the tribu- taries of the Paglione, which is followed to Nice, passing by the vil- lages of Pallarea, Drappo, and La Trinita. 85 m. Nice. (See Rte. 122 and tiandhool: for France.) ROUTE 10. CARRU TO CUNEO, BY MONDOVI. Miles. Stations. Eoutes. Carru .... G 6 Mondovi. . . . i) 10 Roccadebaldi 18 Margarita 21 Beinette 26 Cuneo .... 9 The Ely. ascends the 1. bank of the Tanuro S. as far as Mondovi, where it turns W., and crosses the Val di Pesio to Cuneo. ROUTE 11. TURIN TO GENOA, BY A6TI, ALESSANDRIA, AND NOVI. Miles. Eoutes. 1 11 15 stations. Turin . . . Moncalieri Trofarello . . Cambiano 19 Villanova d'Asti 26 Villafranca d'Asti 28 Baldichieri 31 S. Damiano 36 Asti .... 5 Molini d'Isola 13 Castagnole. . 12 48 Felizzano 68 Alessandria . 12, 14, 19 63 Frugarolo 6 Basaluzzo 71 Novi . . . . 17, 54 75 Serravalle Scrivia 78 Arquata 84 Isola del Cantone 86 Ronco 3 Busalla 10 Pontedecimo 14 Rivarolo 16 Sampierdarena 92 Mignanego 102 Sampierdarena . 104 Genoa , . . 122 123 The line runs S., following the 1. bank of the Po, at some distance from the river, which is crossed by a Bridge of seven arches at the beautifully situated town of "Moncalieri (5500), Monte CailUer, the Hill of Quails. Above the town rises the fine square brick Palace, built by Vitt. Amedeo I. on the site of an older Chateau. Here Vitt. Amedeo II. died in prison after his removal from Rivoli (1823). The Gallery contains family Portraits, a curious series representing the Hun^ ing parties of Carlo Emanuele 11., and an interesting group of modern Italian politicians. The Collegiate Church has some ancient remains. Important Cattle Fair, 29 Oct.— 5 Nov. Houte 11. — Asti: Cathedral, 53 Fine view N.E. of the hills above Turin ; W. of Monte Viso, and other Alpine summits. Steam Tramway N. to Turin, S.E. to (11 m.) Poirino. The line now turns S.E. to Trofa- rello Junct. [Branch Ely. E. to Chieri; Rly. S. to Bra and Cuneo. (Rte. 6.)] Our line runs almost due E., and beyond Cambiano ascends to Villanova, on the watershed between the Po and the Tantiro. [Valdechiesa, 2 m. from Villanova, and an equal distance from Riva di Chieri, was founded in 1248 by the inhabitants of several townships which had been destroyed by the citizens of Asti and other places.] Descent of 350 ft. to Villafranca, through deep cuttings and by numer- ous curves. Baldichieri is geologi- cally interesting, being situated in the midst of the tertiary sub-Apen- nine formation, which abounds in marine shells. Here have been found several remains of large fossil mam- malia. The neighbouring vineyards produce good effervescing Asti wine. The Borhore torrent is crossed near San Damiano, and the Tandro is followed to 36 m. ASTI Junct. (32,000), the Roman Hasta Pomjjeija, birthplace of Alfieri (1749-1803). Leaving the Stat., in 5 min. we reach the Church of S. Secondo. Good front of brick and marble ; three Gothic doorways ; nave and aisles with lateral chapels ; interior painted; capitals coloured and gilded. From the N.W. corner of its Piazza a short street leads to the Corso Vitt. Emanuele, which we follow towards the W., passing the lofty brick tower of >S^. Bernardo, to the (5 min.) House of Alfieri, with an inscription. Here is shown the room in which the poet was born on Jan. 1 7th, together with his Portrait, and an autograph sonnet, addressed to his sister. Further on is seen the picturesque polygonal tower of S. Catarina. Just beyond the House of Alfieri the Via Azeglio leads N. to the Cathedral (1348). Good W, front and S. porch, effectively treated in brick and marble. Three trefoil- headed doorways with dog-tooth moulding, above which rises an empty wheel window. Octagonal cupola and square Tower (1266), near which on the outside wall is a good fresco of the Madonna with Saints and Angels. Lofty nave, aisles, and Choir, with short transepts, all much spoilt by trivial painting. Two old and quaint Holy Water basins, each standing on an inverted Corinthian capital. No clerestory or triforium. Paintings: 2nd left, Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., John Evan., Paul, and another; 3rd left, Marriage of the Virgin, better pre- served ; both perhaps by Macrino d' Alba (\49S). Rt. transept, Family of St. Anne. Sacristy, Nativity, School of Fassano. From the N. aisle a door leads to the adjacent Church of S. Giovanni, on the site of an old Basilica. Ancient white marble font with columns ; wooden stalls sculptured with Saints on the 1. and Apostles on the rt. Small crypt with four granite columns. E. of the Cathedral a street soon leads to the Seminary, a large build- ing with a Library on the ground- floor. Turning S. into the Corso, its E. prolongation becomes the Corso Vitt. Alfieri, which passes (5 min. rt.) a large Piazza, adorned with a Statue of the Poet. The colonnade on the E. side passes the Post Office, and conducts to the Public Garden near the Rly., where is a marble Statue of Vitt. Emanuele. Returning to the Corso, in 10 min. we reach the Porta Alessandria, at the E. extremity of the city. Just within the gate, on the rt., is the Church of S. Pietro, to the rt. of which opens an octagonal *Baptistery (cir. 1050), supported by eight columns with large uncarved capitals. Another circle of half- columns stands against the surround- ing wall. The building is said to occupy the site of a Temple of Diana. All the arches are round. Outside the gate, an embowered Avenue of limes, a mile long, forms an agreeable Promenade, 64 Bouie 11. — Alessandria. The Adigiano, or territory around Asti, contains several mineral and thermal springs. At Castel Alfieri are two springs, which are said to have been pure until the Earthquake of Lisbon, when they became sulphu- retted. In 1807, simultaneously with a severe shock at Pinerolo in Pied- mont, the waters became sweet again. The country abounds in miocene fossils. Interesting geological route S.E. by high road to (25 m.) Acqui, crossing Ete. 12 at the Stat, of Nizza di Monferrato. Ely. S. to Cadagnole, N. to 'Casale. Tramway N.W. to (12 m.) Cortanze, S.W. to (15 m.) Canal e. The Ely. now runs E. through a flat and fertile but unhealthy district, following the 1. bank of the Tanaro. The Pellagra, a skin disease attributed to feeding chietiy on Indian corn, is prevalent hereabouts. The country near Felizzano is frequently inundated by the Tanaro. The river is crossed by a bridge of 15 arches, and the fortifications are skirted, just before reaching 58 m. ALESSANDRIA Janet. *Bu£fet (58,000), a strongly fortified city, and an important Ely. centre. From the Stat, an Avenue with Public Garden on the rt. leads to the City Gates. Thence the Corso Eoma is followed to a triangular Piazzetta, with an Obelisk to the memory of patriot soldiers. On the 1. in the Via Alessandro III. is the Albergo Europa ; in the Via S. Lorenzo, turning back on the rt., is the Alb. Italia ; from the third corner the Via Umberto leads into the large Piazza, where is a bronze Statue of the statesman Urhano Jtattazzi (1873). In front rises the handsome Palazzo Ghilino, inhabited occasionally by the king. At the corner near it is the Post Office, from which the Via Parma leads to the uninteresting Cathedral. Important Fairs in April and October. The extensive Citadel, built in 1728, is reached by a covered bridge. It is of enormous strength, but its owes its chief importance to the facilities for inundation afforded by the TanHro. Alessandria was founded in 11G8, on the site of the small Castle of Eobereto, by the cities of the great Lombard League. This alliance, so powerful, so memoi'able, and yet so ineffectual for the preservation of the national liberties, began in 1164 by the confederacy of Verona, Vicenza, Padua, and Treviso ; and included in 11G7, besides these, Ferrara, Brescia, Bergamo, Cremona, Lodi, Parma, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Novara, Vercelli, Como, Venice, and, lastly, Milan ; — all bound by solemn oath to defend their I'ights. The most power- ful allies and willing subjects of the Emperor Frederic were the citizens of Pavia and the Marquis of Montfer- rat; and to keep these in check, the League determined to erect a new city, at once a fortress for their defence and a memorial of their liberties. The ground was carefully selected, with a view to the isolation of the fortress, if necessary, by means of the surround- ing water ; and the spot appeared well adapted for defence against the German cavalry. The astrologer stood by wdth his astrolabe, and the first stone was laid at the propitious moment. The blessing of the pontiff was given, and the new city was named in honour of Alexander III., the protector of the Guelphs. Bands of workmen, and large sums of money, were sent by the inhabitants of Milan, Cremona, Piacenza, and other towns ; and so earnestly did they labour, that the city was completed in less than a year. The Emp. Frederic Barbarossa, against whose power the fortress was chiefly strengthened, called it Aless- andria clella Paglia (a city of straw), because many of its houses were hastily thatched with laths and stubble ; but the place rapidly rose to power, and the siege laid against it by the incensed Emperor in 1174 ended in a disgraceful retreat from the newly-erected walls. Z^^J- N* to Valenza, for Casale, Mortara, ^^v Pavia ; S.W. to Alba ; S. to Acqui and Savona ; E. to Tortona and Piacenza. Steam Tramway E. to Marengo and >S'o7e, N.N.W. to Casale, S.E. to Spi- netta (Rte. 19), W. to Montemagno.1 Boiite 12. — Turin to Alessandria. 55 The train now crosses the Bormida, which soon afterwards falls into the Tainiro. About a mile E. of the Bridge is the village of Marengo (Rte. 19). Country rich and fertile. From Frugarolo a branch line runs S. to Basaluzzo. Novi (11,000), rising above the Ely. on the rt., is noted for its silk culture. Here the Russians and Austrians under Suwarow defeated the French under Jovxbert in Aug. 1799. The line now ascends, and at Serravalle reaches the foot of the Apennines. Beyond Arquata, with its ruined Castle, is a tunnel, on emerging from which the geologist will observe an interesting section of the tertiary marine strata dipping away from the central range. The Ely. follows the windings of the Scrivia, crossing it repeatedly, and passing through several tunnels. At the Bocchetta, or narrowest part of the ravine, the scenery is strikingly grand. Isola del Cantone, placed in an angle formed by the junction of the Scrivia with a tributary stream, is overlooked by a ruined Castle on the rt. 86 m. Eonco Junct. 7 m. W. are the pleasantly situated Baths of Vol- taggio. Here the Ely. divides. The old line ascends to Busalla, and pierces the Apennines by a tunnel nearly 2 m. long, excavated in the friable calca- reous schist, whose precipices enclose the Scrivia near its source. Our Ely. almost immediately enters a longer and safer Tunnel (3| m.), on emerging from which at Mignanego the old line is seen below to the left. The descent is rapid, but well-engineered, and several fine viaducts and short tunnels carry the Ely. down to the junction of the two lines at Sampierdarena. Here travellers for Nice change carriages, while our line runs E. through the suburb, and pierces the Lantern Hill by a short tunnel before reaching KOUTE 12. TURIN TO ALESSANDRIA, BY CAVALLER- MAGGIOKE AND ALBA. — BAIL. 104 m. 122). Genoa Junct. Buffet (Rte. Miles Stations. Turin . , . Routes. 1 8 Trofarello . , . 6 28 36 Cavallermaggiore Bra .... . 9 . 6 47 Alba 55 71 Castagnole Lanza Nizza Monfen-ato . 11 73 Incisa Belbo 81 84 Oviglio Cantalupo . . 13 89 Alessandria . 11, 14, 19 Turin is described in Ete. 1, and the Ely. as far as 8 m. Trofarello Junct. in Ete. 6. Thence to 28 m. Cavallermaggiore Junct. (Ete, 9). Here the line turns E. to 36 m. Bra Junct. (Ete. 3). [3 m. S.E., on the N. bank of the Tanaro, is Pollenzo, a castle and village, replacing the Eoman munici- pium of Pollentia. Here the armies of the Triumvirate frequently as- sembled. It was celebrated for its manufactures of terra-cotta, praised by Pliny as being scarcely inferior to those of Samos. In the age of the Antonines, Pollentia was very flourish- ing ; and it is supposed that the edi- fices, of which there are still con- siderable vestiges, belonged to that period. The walls of an Amphi- theatre and a Theatre are still stand- ing. On the old road to Alba are the supposed remains of the Villa Martis, the birthplace of the Emperor Perti- nax, who together with his father had an earthenware manufactory here. Hard by is a field called Ciupelle, of which the ground is covered with fragments of earthenware. Pollenzo was erected into a county by Wenzel 16 Boute 13.— Alessandria to Savona. or Wenceslaus (the emperor who was deposed by the electors in consequence of his vices), in favour of Antonio Pirro, a condottiere, who had served under Gak^azzo Visconti of Milan in 1383 ; and with the assent of the Anti- pope, Clement, he erected, in 1385, a Castle upon the site of a monastery. This picturesque building, with its overhanging machicolations and lofty dungeon tower, has been judiciously restored, and was a favourite residence of the late King of Italy.] Leaving Bra, the Ely. crosses the low tertiary ridge which separates the valley of the Grana from that of the Tan5ro, which it follows as far as 47 m. Alba (Alba Pompeia), a very ancient episcopal town (6500) on the rt. bank of the Tanuro, where the Querazzo joins it. The Cathedral, dedicated to San Lorenzo, and founded in 1486, is attributed toBramante, and contains in its choir a handsome mausoleum of the founder, Andrea Novelli, In S. Giov. Batthta is a Virgin and Child with Angels, by Barnaha da Modena (1380). Alba was an Imperial fief, granted successively to the Counts of Saluzzo and the Visconti, and as such it formed a part of the marriage portion given by Gian Galeazzo to his daughter Violante on her marriage with Lionel, Duke of Clarence. The Ely. continues to follow the Taniiro as far as 55 m. Castagnole Junct. [Ely. N. to Asti.] 71 m. Nizza Monferrato, so called to distinguish it from Nice or Nizza di Mare. It is also called Nizza di Paglia, from having been originally composed of straw huts by the emi- grants who had removed thither. Ely. in construction N.W. to Asti, S.E. to Acqui. Nizza is situated on the Belbo, which the Ely. follows to 81 m. Oviglio. 3 m. further on the latter river joins the Tantiro. At 84 m. Cantalupo Junct., our line joins that to Acqui. 89 m. Alessandria Junct. (Ete. 11). Good Buffet. EOUTE 13. ALESSANDEIA TO SAVONA, BY ACQUI AND DEGO. — BAIL. Miles. Stations. Routes. Alessandria . . 11 5 Cantalupo . . .12 7 Borgoratto 9 Gamalero 10 Sezze 14 Cassine 21 Acqui 24 Terzo 28 Bistagno 38 Spigno 46 Dego 51 Cairo Montenotte 53 S. Giuseppe di Cairo 6 62 Santuario 66 Savona ... 122 A very interesting Ely. to the mili- tary traveller, as it lies over ground rendered celebrated by Napoleon's first Italian campaign in 1796, ascend- ing the valley of the Bormida to the passes of Montenotte and Cadibona. Alessandria is described in Ete. 11. The Ely. runs S. to 5 m. Cantalupo Junct., in the plain ; here the route to Nizza di Monferrato, Alba, and Bra branches off (Ete. 5). The line enters the hilly country at 7 m. Borgoratto, following the 1. bank of the Bormida to 9 m. Gamalero, a small village in a pleasant country, and thence to 10 m. Sezze, the village at some distance on tbe 1. beyond the Bormid^ 14 m. Cassine (4000), on a height overlooking the valley of the Bormida. This small town maintained many a Boute 13. — Acqiii — Dego. 57 sturdy conflict with its powerful neighbour Alessandria. 21 m. AcaTTI (11,000), the seat of a bishop, is the Aqux StatieJx of the Komans. It was the ancient capital of the Statielli, a Ligurian nation, and acquired much celebrity under the Romans from its hot springs. The whole country abounds with them. \ Within the walls rises the " BoUente," 1*57° Fahr. The flow is abundant, and never diminishes. The water is used by the inhabitants for the pur- poses of washing, though, both to taste and smell, disagreeably impreg- nated with sulphuretted hydrogen. The Bath-houses are on the opposite bank of the river, where several springs (lll"^ to 124°) issue from the ground. They were built in the 16th cent., by the Duke of Mantua, but have been improved. The mud baths (Fanghi) are considered to have most efficacy. Gout, paralysis, and rheu- matic affections are the complaints in which they are peculiarly useful. Dr. Cantii, a Piedmontese physician, dis- covered iodine in the waters, to which he attributes much of their virtues, and also a trace of bromine. There is also a Government Establishment for military patients, and for about 3000 indigent persons, who are lodged, fed, and for the most part cured, gratis. The few Roman remains which escaped the destruction of the city by the Goths attest its ancient magnifi- cence. Four arches of a massive yet elegant Aqueduct are the most con- spicuous. Several reservoirs and other portions of the thermae may be traced. One spring retains, by tradition, the name of "the fountain of Pallas." The block or nucleus of a large sepul- chral monument is called Came by the common people, a name having a curious, though perhaps accidental, similarity to the Gaelic and Cymric cairn or Carnedcl. Numerous inscrip- tions relating to the Lollian, Mettian, Eutilian, Petronian, Eubrian, Men- nian, and Plautian families, as well as urns, lamps, and idols, have been found near the branch of the Via Emilia which ran by the city. Coins extending from Augustus to Theo- dosius have also been found. Acqui was the capital of the Upper Montferrat, and some of the towers erected by the Palseologi yet remain. It suffered much during the revolu- tionary wars. The Duomo, begun in the 12th cent., has a fine and venerable porch, with an ample flight of stone steps, which adds to its effect. The nave has double aisles. San Francesco, a Gothic building scarcely inferior to the Duomo, was ruined by the French. Monte Stregone (Great Wizard) rises above the city. Here the hot springs have their sources. On leaving Acqui, the Ely. follows the banks of the Bormida, to 24 m. Terzo, on the site of a Roman Stat. — ad Tertium — its distance from Acqui. 28 m. Bistagno (2000). The two branches forming the Bormida unite beyond this village — the Bormida di Spigno descending from the Altare or Cadibona Pass, and the Bormida di Millesimo, which rises at the foot of Monte Calvo. The Rly. follows the first nearly due S. to 38 m. Spigno (3000), in a fertile territory, producing much silk and wine. 46 m. Dego (Degus), in a bend, on the 1. bank of the Bormida. Dego (2300), from its situation on one of the high-roads into Lombardy and Piedmont, has suffered severely on several occasions from military opera- tions, but especially in 1794, 'when it was occupied by Massena, and in 1796, when it was the scene of one of the sanguinary battles that opened to Xa- poleon the conquest of Italy. The French general, having succeeded by a masterly movement in cutting through the centre of the allied army of the Piedmontese and Austrians at Mon- tenotte on the 12th of April (see be- low), proceeded to attack each in turn. The Austrians, after their disaster at 58 Boiite 13. — Cairo Montenotte — Aliare. Montcnotte, retreated along the Bor- mida, and occupied Dego, where their conquered division received reinforce- ments from the main body of the Im- perial army, then about Genoa. After beating the Piedmontese under Colli at Millesimo, and forcing them to retreat on Cevaand Mondovi, Xapoleon, having under his orders Laharpe and Massena, attacked the Austrians at Dego. After a series of hard-fought actions during two days, the Imperial general was obliged to retreat upon Acqui, leaving 3000 prisoners and 13 cannon in the hands of the French. Two days after- wards, however, a gallant attempt Avas made by General Wickasowich, at the head of GUOO Austrian grenadiers, to retrieve the past disaster of his country- men. Dego was retaken, with 600 French in it ; but Napoleon, uniting his forces, pounced upon Wickasowich un- expectedly, and soon recovered it, making 1600 Imperialists prisoners. The result of tlie battle of Dego was that the Imperialists were prevented from forming a junction with, or relieving, their Piedmontese allies, already hard pressed by Napoleon at Ceva, and ulti- mately defeated at Mondovi (Ptte. 10). They 'were obliged to retreat on Alessan- dria, to cover Milan from an attack by Napoleon. It was at the battle of Dego that Lannes was first distinguished by General Buonaparte, who for his gallant conduct made him a colonel on the field of battle. 51 m. Cairo Montenotte. Cairo (jCairuDi) is the principal town in this upper valley of the Bormida (3500), and is supposed to have been a sta- tion on the Via Emilia, which from Rimini led to Savona. Iron fur- naces in the neighbourhood. The old road to Savona by the Fass of Monte- notte, now abandoned, struck off to the 1. from this point, passing by the battle-field of Montenotte. A mule- path, frequented by the Genoese fisher- men, still exists over the pass. The new road was commenced in 1800 by Napoleon ; and a handsome stone bridge of 7 arches has been thrown over the Bormida at Cairo. Instead of crossing a difficult col, as that of Mon- tenotte was, it penetrates into Mari- time Liguria by that between Altare and Cadibona, perhaps the lowest pass or depression in the whole chain of the Apennines, which commence here- abouts. It was at Montenotte that Napoleon, on the 12th of April, 1796, succeeded in piercing the centre of the Allied army by a masterlv movement. Encamped at Savona, having the Austrian comman- der-in-chief in front, at Voltri, he had detached a corps of 1200 men, under Colonel Rampon, to occupy the pass of Montenotte. The latter was vigorously attacked by a vastly superior force of the Imperialists under General Puka- wina, who was severely wounded, and the command devolved on Argenteau. Forced to shut himself up in the dis- mantled redoubt of Monte Legino, the French commander defended himself with heroism until night closed in, exacting from his soldiers an oath that they would conquer or die. Napoleon, hearing of Rampon's critical position, immediately broke up from Savona, rm- observed, owing to the darkness of the night, with the greater part of his forces, and by daybreak the next morning was I able to relieve Rampon. The Austrians 1 were completely beaten, losing 1000 \ killed, 2000 prisoners, and 5 pieces of j cannon ; but what was more serious i still, their centre having been forced, \ their main body was obliged to retreat 1 on Dego. \ There are remains of a Roman road * about a mile beyond Cairo, and the ruins of a convent, said to have been founded by St. Francis himself, but burned down by the French in 1 799. 53 m. San Giuseppe Junct. ^ [Rly. W., by Ceva and Cherasco, to Turin (Rte. 6).] The village of Carcare (1.500) lies to the 1., where the valley widens, and in a military point of view occupies an important position ; for this reason it w^as selected by Napoleon, after the battle of Montenotte, as his head- quarters, from which he directed Jptis operations against the Austrians in the valley of the Bormida, and against the Piedmontese in that of the Taniiro. 3 m. "W. is Altare, the last village Boute 14. — Alessandria to Luino. 59 on the northern declivity of the Apen- nines. The great depression of this part of the Ligurian Apennines gave rise to the project of the Frenah government, in 1805, of establishing a communica- tion by a canal between the valley of the Po and the Mediterranean. Altare •was to have been the site of an im- mense reservoir to supply the canal in its descent, through the valley by which we have travelled, to Aless- andria, from whence the Tan^ro is navigable to the Po. There are mines of lignite coal in the environs of Cadihona belonging to the tertiary geological epoch. This coal contains bones of an extinct quadruped, the Anthracotherium, also found in the tertiary strata of the Paris basin, of Alsace, the Isle of Wight, 8cc. The Rly. now descends S.E. to Santuario, so called from its cele- brated Pilgrimage Church, described, together with 66 m. Savona Junct., in Kte. 122. EOUTE 14. ALESSANDRIA TO LTJINO, BY VALENZA MORTARA AND NOVAEA. — RAIL. Miles. Stations. Routes. Alessandria 11, 12, 19 5 Valmadonna 9 Valenza . . . 16, 55 13 Torreberetti 16 Sartirana 19 Valle 23 Olevano 27 Mortara . .15, 18, 56 31 Borgo Lavezzaro 34 Vespolate 42 Novara . . .2,20, 21 53 Oleggio 5 Varallo Pomhia 7 Borgo Ticino 13 Arena ... 34 62 Sesto Calende . . 34 66 Taino Angara 69 Ispra 75 Laveno . . . 33,35 84 Luino . . . 39,40 Alessandria is described in Rte. 11, The line crosses the broad Taniiro, and runs through a hilly country, the E. angle of the tertiary range of the Astigiano, between the Po and the Tanriro ; a gradual ascent brings us to 5 m. Valmadonna, nearly at the summit-level, from which an equally gradual descent, after passing through a long tunnel, leads to 9 m. Valenza Junct. (4000). Here was a strong fortress taken by the Austrian general Leutrum in 1746. [PJy. N.W. to Casale, N.E. to Pavia.;\ Beyond Valenza the Po is crossed by a fine bridge of 20 arches. 13 m. Torreberetti Junct. N.E. to Pavia.2 CKly. 16 m. Sartirana, a considerable town in a rich agricultural district. 19 m. Valle. The Rly. now crosses numerous streams and canals, the country being highly irrigated, and laid out in rice-fields, to 23 m. Olevano, near the 1. bank of the Agogna, amidst a network of canals. 27 m. Mortara Junct. (7000), chief town of the Lomellina, the district between the rivers Ticino and Sesia; its name is supposed to be derived from Mortis ara (altar of death) , the country around being unhealthy, or from the slaughter of the Lombards by Charlemagne, whom he defeated A.D. 774. Santa Maria, the principal church, has been a good specimen of Italian Gothic; it is now much dilapidated. In this neighbourhood took place a severe action between the Pied- montese and the Austrians on the 21st of March, 1849, when the former, overpowered by numbers, were obliged to fall back on Novara. [Rly., N.E. to Milan, S.W. to Casale, W. to Vercelli, E. to Pavia. Tramway S. to Oitobiano and Pieve del Caifo.l GO Route 15. — Asii to Moriara. The line now follows the Arhoroso stream to 31 m. Borgo lavezzaro. 3 m. rt. lies GraveUona, in the plain of the Ter- doppio. 34 m. Vespolate Stat. The Ely. now intersects the Battle-field of Novara. It was among the fields reaching to the hamlet of La Bicocca, ^ m. 1. of the line, that the battle raged most violently on the 23rd of March, 1819. (Rte. 2.) 42 m. Novara Jnnct. ; good Buffet (Rte, 2). [Kly., E. to Rho for Milan, S.W. to VercelU, and N.W. to Gozzano for the lake of Orta.'] 1 m. further the line crosses the Cavour Canal. 53 m. Oleggio Junct., a large village, about 3 m. W. of the Ticino. [Rly. N.N.W. to Arona, passing 5 m. Varallo Pomhia. The Rly. ascends continually through low gravel hills, the remains of ancient moraines, left by glaciers when they extended thus far from the mountains. The view of Monte Rosa and the snowy chain of the Pennine Alps is magnifi- cent. 7 m. Borgo Ticino. The line now descends towards the shores of the lake, which it follows to 13 m. Arona. The Rly. Stat, is at the S. extremity of the town, close to the lake and quay. (Rte. 34.)] The main line, on leaving Oleggio, runs N. and crosses the Ticino on a fine iron bridge 300 yds. long, with three openings. The Simplon carriage- road runs below the Rly. 62 m. Sesto Calende Junct. [Rly. S.E.;to Gallarate and Milan.] Thence to 66 m. Taino. 2 m. E. is Angera (Rte. 47). 69 m. Ispra. 3 m. N.E. is Brehhia, with a Church retaining some excel- lent Lombard work and a good S. door. 75 m. laveno Junct. (Rte. 33). Rly. S.E. to Milan, S.E.E. to Varese. The Rly. now passes through a tunnel nearly 2 m. long and skirts the lake, crossing the river Tresa — the outlet of Lake Lugano, shortly before reaching 84 m. Luino Junct. (Rte. 39). ROUTE 15, ASTI TO MORTAR A, BY CASALE. Miles stations. Routes. Asti . . . . . 11 10 Tonco 15 Moncalvo 19 Serralunga 24 San Giorgio 28 Casale . . . . 16 11 Trino Vercellese 20 Crescentino 31 Chivasso . .2,5 38 Candia Lomellina 47 Mortara . . 14, 18, 56 From Asti (Rte. 11) the line turns N. across a country of vines and mulberries, with low hills on either side. Most of the towns are perched on heights, at some distance from their stations. Just before reaching Moncalvo is a short tunnel, after which the train descends to 19 m. Serralunga. Carriage-road (8 frs. there and back) to the Sanctuary of Crea (2000 ft.). Splendid View. Pilgrimage Chapels as at Varallo, with terra- cotta figures by Tahacchetti. The Sanctuary was founded in 1590. In the Convent Church are some badly lighted frescoes by Macrino d'Alha (1503). Beyond Ossano the Rly. passes through a long tunnel to ^ 24 m. San Giorgio. The village, with its imposing Castello, crowns the hill on the left. Boute 15. — Casale : Cathedral. 61 28 m. CASALE Junct. (28,000), an importaut city, the capital of the ancient marqiiisate of Moutferrat. In after times it was a much-contested position : and the citadel, founded in 1590 by Duke Vincenzo, was one of the strongest places in Italy. The Castle near the river was embellished by the Gonzaga dukes. Many Roman remains have been found here, and coins of the earliest ages of the republic. Casale has been greatly strengthened, and, with Alessandria and Verona, it is now one of the great military strongholds of Northern Italy. The *Cathedral is supposed to have been founded by Liutprand, King of the Lombards, in 7-42 ; and the archives of the chapter contain a charter en- graved upon a tablet of lead, thought to confirm this opinion. Repairs and decorations have effaced many of the original features of the Lombard buildings. The W. end is flanked with two slender red-brick towers. A large atrium leads by a descent of four steps into the Nave, which has double aisles, and a short apsidal Choir. There are no transepts, but at the end of the Nave rises an octagonal dome. In 1854-60 the building was tho- roughly restored, and strengthened with iron girders, which are hidden within the arches. In the 1st chapel rt. is a Statue by Bernini ; and on the wall of the passage leading to the Sacristy is a Mosaic pavement of the 8th cent. On the rt. is the chapel of St. Eva- sius, patron of the city ; the shrine is of silver. In the Sacristy (though the French removed a large portion of its contents) are still some curious speci- mens of art. A cross taken from the inhabitants of Alessandria, covered with plates set with gems, stands over the door. Another of rich workman- ship, in enamel, was given by Card. Theodore Palseologus. The altar, with reliefs, and various statuettes, were formerly in the chapel of Saut' Evasio. Among the archives are some valuable MSS. of the 10th cent., and an ancient sacrificial vase in silver representing the Triumph of Bacchus. Here also is a fine *Baptism of Christ, in oil, by Gaud. Ferrari. *San Domenico, one of the last monuments of the Palaeologi, was begun by them in 1469, and conse- crated in 1513. The memory of this family is preserved in the tomb erected by the King of Sardinia in 1835, and containing the remains of several of its princes. The nave and aisles are Gothic, the Choir Renaissance. The front has a good doorway in the latter style adorned with Statues and reliefs ; above it is a round window encircled with the Signs of the Zodiac. The Church contains paintings by Pompeo Battoni and Moncalvo. On the rt. of the entrance is the *recum- bent effigy of Benvenuto di San Giorgio (1527) beneath a canopy, sur- mounted with a figure of St. John Baptist. He wrote a chronicle of Montferrat, of much importance in the general history of Italy; he was a knight of Malta, and is represented upon his tomb in the habit of his order. The style of the whole is in- teresting, as being the parent of that which .prevailed in England in the days of Elizabeth. The Church has a good brick Tower. Sant' Ilario, near the Castello and the Po, enjoys the reputation of having been once a pagan temple. It is said to have been consecrated by St. Hilary in the 4th cent. Some curious specimens of early paintings still The old Torre del grand' Orologio, near the central Piazza Carlo Alberto, was built before the year 1000. It was altered in 1510 by William IV., Mar- quis of Montferrat, whose arms are cast upon the great bell. Near it is a Statue of Luigi Canina. A bronze equestrian Statue of Carlo Alberto adorns the principal Piazza, and near the Stat, is a bronze Statue of Giovanni Lanza. The Palazzo della Citta, in the Via Cavour, originally the pro- perty of the Bladrate family, is attri- buted to Bramante. Some frescoes 62 Eoute 16. — Vercelli to Alessandria. yet ornament the roof and walls. Further on, to the left in walking from the Stat,, is the old Palazzo della Citta, now the Corte cVAjyi^ello. Palazzo Delavalle contains some fres- coes attributed to Giulio Romano. In the Palazzo Gallon' is a portrait of Gonzaga, abbot of S. Andrea at Mantua, by Titian. Ely. and Steam Tramway to Alessandria^ Montemagno, and Vercelli. Rly. W. to Chivasso, passing [Trino (7000). Great herds of swine are reared in the surrounding marshes, and the hams of Trino are celebrated throughout Piedmont. Trino was the birthplace of Bernar- dino Gioleto, a celebrated printer, who established himself at Venice in 1487, and became the father of a long line of typographers. Trino origi- nally belonged to Vercelli, and was the constant object of contention between it and the marquises of Mont- ferrat. When Carlo Emanuele I. claimed the marquisate, he took Trino after a siege ; and having been assisted by his two sons Victor Ame- deus and Francesco Tommaso, the achievement was commemorated by this jingling epigram: — Trina dies Trinum trino sub principe cepit. Quid mirum.' numquid Mars ibitrinus erat. Steam Tramway N.E. to (12 m.) VerceJU (Rte. 2).] On leaving Casale, the main line, crossing the Sesia, continues N.E. to 38 m. Candia Lomellina. There are some frescoes in the Church of Sta. INIaria by Lanini ; and the neighbouring village of Cozzo is said to have been founded by King Cottius. Thence through the rich country of the Lomellina to 47 m. Mortara Junct. (Rte. 14). The whole district is intersected by rivers, watercourses and canals ; and the rice-plantations add to the insalubrity of the marsh-lauds around. EOUTE IG. VERCELLI TO ALESSANDRIA, BY CASALE AND VALENZA. Miles Stations. lloutes. VerceUi . . . .2,56 5 Asigliano 11 Balzola 14 Casale . . . . 15 22 Giarole 27 Valenza . 14,55 30 Valmadonna 35 Alessandria . . 11 From Vercelli (Rte. 2) the Rly. runs S. as far as Balzola, where it crosses the Po. On leaving Casale (Rte. 15), the line turns S.E., and at Valenza (Rte. 14) strikes S. again, and crosses the Tanaro close to the walls of the Citadel as it approaches Alessandria (Rte. 11). Good Buffet. ROUTE 1^ NOVI TO OVADA, EY BASALUZZO. — STEAM TE.OIWAY. Miles Stations. Routes. Novi . . . . 11,54 4 Basaluzzo . . . 11 8 Capriata 13 Lerma 15 Ovada From Novi (Rte. 11) this line runs W. to Basaluzzo, whence a branch Rly. strikes X. to Frugarolo (Rte. 11). The tramway now turns S.W., and gradually ascends to Ovada, plea- santly situated at the foot of tife mountain range which extends behind the Riviera between Genoa and Savona. Rly. in progress from Genoa to Acqui, passing through Ovada. BoiUe Id.— Alessandria to Piacenza. 63 EOUTE 18. MILAN TO MOKTAEA, BY ABBIATEGRASSO. Miles, 18 24 33 stations. Eoutes. Milan 2, 32, 53, 54, 101 Milan (Porta Ticino) Corsico Abbiategrasso Vigevano Mortara . . 14, 15, 56 From the Central Stat, of Milan (Rte. 51) the train makes a wide curve N.W. and S. to the suburban Stat, of Porta Ticino, and turns W. to Corsico. Much of the cheese ex- ported under the name of Parmesan, but known in the country as for- maggio di grana, is made hereabouts. Abbiategrasso, a large borough, near the Naviglio Grande (Rte. 2), with a Church by Bramante. The large infirmary is a dependency of the great hospital of Milan. The Ticino is crossed to Vigevano (18,000), a place of con- siderable trade, silk manufactures, silkworms' eggs, &c. Handsome school, with fa9ade of granite. The ancient Castle of the Sforza family, altered in 1492 by Bramante, has been converted into barracks. The Cathedral, a good building, has been repaired and deco- rated. Tramway N.E. to Novara, S. to Ottohlano. Mortara (Rte. 14). ROUTE 19. ALESSANDRIA TO PIACENZA, BY TOR- TONA AND VOGIIEEA. \Iiles Stations. Routes. Alessandria .11, 12,14 5 Spinetta 9 S. Giuliano 14 Tortona . , . 54 19 Pontecurone 26 Voghera . . . 54 30 Casteggio 37 Broni 40 Stradella . 54 43 Arena Po 47 Castel S. Giovanni 50 Sarmato 56 S. Niccolo 61 Piacenza 57, ( 30, 101 Alessandria is described in Rte. 11. Soon after leaving that city the Bormida is crossed, the line to Genoa branching off on the rt. The village of Marengo is now passed on the 1., and the Rly. con- tinues through the plain of the battle- field. On the evening of the 13th of June, 1800, the whole Austrian army mustered in front of Alessandria, having only the river Bormida between them and the plain of INIarengo ; and early in the fol- lowing morning they passed the stream at three several points, and advanced towards the French position in as many columns. The Austrians were full 40,000 strong ; while, in the absence of Desaix and the reserve, IS^apoleon could at most oppose to them 20,000, of whom only 2500 were cavalry. He had, how- ever, no hesitation about accepting the battle. His advance, under Gardanne, occupied the small hamlet of Padre Bona, a little in front of Marengo. At that village, which overlooks a narrow ravine, the channel of a rivulet, Napo- leon stationed Yictor with the main body of his first line, the extreme right of it resting on Castel Ceriolo, another ham- let almost parallel Avith Marengo. Kel- lermann, with a brigade of cavalry, was posted immediately behind Victor for the protection of his flanks. A thousand yards in the rear of Victor was the 64 Route 19. — Battle of Marengo. second line, under Lanncs, protected in like fashion by the cavalry of Cham- peaiix. At about an equal distance, again, behind Lannes, was the third line, consisting of the division of St. Cyr, and the consular guard imder Xapoleon in person. TheAustrian heavy infantry, on reaching the open field, formed into two lines, the first, under General Haddick, considerably in advance before the other, which Melas himself com- manded, with General Zach for his second. These moved steadily towards Marengo, while the light infantry and cavalry, under General Elsnitz, made a de'tour round Castel Ceriolo, with the purpose of outflanking the French right. Such was the posture of the two armies when this great battle began. Gardanne was unable to withstand the shock, and, abandoning Padre Bona, fell back to strengthen Victor. A furious cannonade along the whole front of that position ensued. The tirailleurs of cither army posted themselves along the margin of the ravine, and fired inces- santly at each other, their pieces almost touching. Cannon and musketry spread devastation everywhere, for the armies were but a few yards apart. For more than two hours Victor withstood singly the vigorous assaidts of a far superior force ; Marengo had been taken and retaken several times ere Lannes re- ceived orders to reinforce him. The second line at length advanced; but they found the first in retreat, and the two corps took up a second line of defence considerably to the rear of Marengo. Here they were again charged furiously, and again, after obstinate re- sistance, gave way. General Elsnitz, meantime, having effected his purpose, and fairly marched round Castel Ceriolo, appeared"^ on the right flank with his splendid cavalry, and began to pour his squadrons upon the retreating columns of Lannes. That gallant chief formed his troops en echelon, and retired in admirable order ; but the retreat was now 'general ; and, had Melaa pursued the ads-antage with all his reserve, the battle was won. But that aged general (he was 84 years old) doubted not that he had won it already ; and at this critical moment, being quite worn out with fatigue, withdrew to the rear, leaving Zach to continue what he considered as now a mere pursuit. At the moment when the Austrian horse were about to rush on Lannes' retreating corps, the reserve under Desaix appeared on the outskirts of the field. Desaix himself, riding up to the First Consul, said, " I think this a battle lost." " I think it is a battle won," answered Napoleon. " Do j'ou push on, and I will speedily rally the line behind you." And, in effect, the timely arrival of this reserve turned the fortime of the day. Xapoleon in person drew up the whole of his army in a third line of battle, and rode along the front, saying, " Soldiers, we have retired far enough — let us now advance — you know it is my custom to sleep on the field of battle." The enthusiasm of the troops appeared to be revived, and Desaix prejiared to act on the offensive. He led a fresh column of 5000 grenadiers to meet and check the advance of Zach. The brave Desaix fell dead at the first fire, shot through the head. " Alas ! it is not jiermitted to me to weep," said Napoleon : and the fall of that beloved chief redoubled the fury of his followers. The first line of the Austrian infantry charged, however, with equal resolution. At that moment Kellermann's horse came on them in flank, and, being by that unexpected assault broken, they were, after a vain struggle, compelled to surrender. Gene- ral Zach himself was here made prisoner. The Austrian coliunns behind, being flushed with victory, were advancing too carelessly, and proved unable to resist the general assault of the whole French line, which now pressed onwards under the immediate command of Napoleon. Post after post was carried. The noble cavalry of Elsnitz, perceiving the in- fantry broken and retiring, lost heart ; and, instead of forming to protect their retreat, turned their horses' heads and galloped over the plain, trampling down everything in their way. "When the routed army reached at length the Bor- mida, the confusion was indescribable. Hundreds were drowned — the river rolled red amidst the corpses of horses and men. Whole corps, being unable to effect the passage, surrendered ; and at ten at night the Austrian commander with diflicidty rallied the remnant of that magnificent array on the very groimd which they had left the saqjiB morning in all the confidence of victory. The portion of the plain on which the battle was fought was purchased by Giovanni Delavo, who in 1847 Moute. 1 9. — Spinetta — Casteggio. 65 erected there a Museum, and a monu- ment to the memoiy of Napoleon. From the Bormida the Ely. runs across the plain, here richly culti- vated, passing by 5 m. Spinetta, the nearest Stat, to Marengo. Tramway to Alessandria. 9 m. San Giuliano. The Scrivia is crossed, before arriving at 14 m. Tortona Junct. (13,500), the Dertona of the Romans, situated at the base of one of the last spurs of the sub-Apennines. Tortona is one of the most ancient cities of Northern Italy ; it was one of the towns of the Lombard league, and was levelled to the ground by Frederick Barbarossa. It was fortified by Vittorio Amedeo II. ; but the French blew up the citadel in 1796, after its surrender, in virtue of the stipulations of the treaty of Cherasco. The Duomo (1584) contains a remarkable sarcophagus, on which are inscriptions in Greek and Latin, to the memory of P. jElius Sabinus, and a curious mixture of pagan and Christian emblems. The former are by far the most prominent. Castor, Pollux, and the fall of Phaeton stand out boldly ; while the lamb and the vine more obscurely indicate the faith of the mother who raised the tomb. This curious combination may be ex- plained by supposing that the family were afraid to manifest their belief. In the Church of San Francesco is the rich chapel of the Garofali family. [Rly. S.W. to Novi. Steam Tram- way to (8 m.) Sale, and (6 m.) Mon- leale. 19 m. Ponte Curone, so named from the torrent which runs beneath it. The Rly. continues across the plain, with hills on the rt., to 26 m. Voghera Junct. (15,000), the Iria of the Romans. The Church of S. Lorenzo is of the 17th cent. Near the altar is the tomb of Count N. Italy. Taddeo de Vesme, with an inscription announcing that when it was opened in 1646, his body, buried in 1458, was found entire, aud that on separating one of the arms, blood flowed from it. This count, despoiled of his possessions by Lodovico Sforza, died in the odour of sanctity. Here is preserved, in a curious reliquary, a thorn of the crown of our Saviour, presented in 1436 by Archbishop Pietro dei Giorgi, whose tomb is in the middle of the aisle. There is also an ostensoir, weighing 25 lbs., made at Milan about the same period. This is one of the Italian towns in which printing was earliest introduced ; and the books produced here are of the greatest rarity. Vo- ghera having been a station on the Via Emilia, several Roman antiquities have been found near it. [Tramway to Stradella (see below). Rly. N. to Pavia for Milan.] Leaving Voghera, the Rly. ap- proaches the hilly region. 30 m. Casteggio (2900), the ancient Clastidium, a town of importance in Cisalpine Gaul, celebrated as the place where Claudius Marcellus gained the spolia opima, by defeating and slaying Virdomarus, King of the Gaesatse. It has been an important military posi- tion from the time of the Gallic and Punic wars down to the last great European conflict. It was besieged by Hannibal, and might have defied his power ; but 200 pieces of gold paid to Publius Darius, the commander, pur- chased the fortress ; and the pro- visions and stores found therein were of the greatest utility to the Cartha- ginian army. Of the Carthaginian general there is yet a remarkable memorial. About j m. from the town is a spring of very pure and clear water, called by immemorial tradition " Fontana d'Annibale," and girt by a wall, which he is said to have built. It is close to the track of the Roman army, and about 100 yards from the modern road to Piacenza. It was near Casteggio that, on the 9th of June, 18U0, the great battle between 66 lioute 1\). — Broni — San Niccolo. the French and the Austrians was fought, usual 1}' called the battle of Montehello, froui the village on the hill, about 1 m. W. of it, -where the French linally routed the corps de reserve of the enemy. 'Jhe Austrians defended themselves in Castcggio -with great valour ; and the hills near the town were constantly oecuined and re-occupied by the con- tending parties ; but the fortune of the day was decided by Victor, who broke the centre of the enemy ; and when Xapoleon came up to the assistance of the French vanguard, the victory had been already gained. It was nearly on the same site that the united armies of the French and Fiedmontese defeated the Austrians in May 1859 : the hrst great success of the allied armies during the Italian war. A few fragments of walls and towers are the only remaining vestiges of antiquity in this town ; but many curious Koman inscriptions, bronzes, and coins have been found here. From Casteggio the ivly. follows the base of the hilly region, through corn- lields, the hills being covered with vines. o7 m. Broni (4500), near the site of the Komau station of CarruUomagus, in a pretty position near the Apen- nines. The collegiate Church, founded by Azzo, INIarquis of Este and Ferrara, in the 18th cent., is a building of various ages and styles ; some portions are of the 10th cent. It has been richly fitted up by the inhabitants ; and boasts a silver shrine, with the relics of San Contardo, son of the founder. Giood wine is made in this neighbourhood. 40 m. Stradella Junct. (for Fiivia), at the extreme northern point of the hills, which here approach within 2 m. of the Po. Tramway to Voghera (see above). Following the base of the hills, the Rly. gradually approaches the river. 4o m. Arena Po. The village is at some distance on the 1. The Bardo- nezza torrent, formerly the boundary betAvcen Piedmont and the duchy of Piaccnza, is crossed to 47 m. Castel S. Giovanni, on th 1. bank of the Corona. At 50 m. Sarmato the line separates from the hills on the rt., and soon crosses the Tidone stream. 5G m. San Niccolo, near the 1. bank of the Trebbia, on leaving which the river is crossed on the magnificent *Bridge erected in 1825 by the Empress Maria Louisa, under the direction of the engineer Coccanelli, at an expense of 47,200/. sterling. It consists of 23 arches, its length is 500 yards, and the width between the parapets is 26 ft. A column at its extremity recalls the three great battles which took place in the neighbourhood. By an act of useless precaution — for the river was dry at the time — the Austrians blew up some of the arches on the E. side, in their retreat from Piacenza, in May, 1859. The lower course of the Trebbia is celebrated in the military history of Italy as having witnessed three great battles, each of which decided the fate of Italy for the time ; the tirst, between Hannibal and the Komans under the Consid Sempronius, B.C. 218, which opened Central and Southern Italy to the Carthaginian invader : the second, in 174G, between the united armies of France and Spain on the one side, and the allied Austro-Piedmontese, which led to the momentary exi)ulsion of the Bourbons from Parma and I'iacenza ; and the last, in June 17'J'J, when the French army, imder Macdonald, after a prolonged struggle of three days, and a loss of 15,000 men, Avas obliged to retreat before the Ifussians and Imperialists, commanded by Suwarrow. The site where Hannibal defeated Sempronius, or where the force of Mago was placed in ambuscade, which so greatly contri- buted to that disaster, cannot be ascer- tained with certainty, but it is probable that, Flannibal being encamped on the 1. bank, the Komans attacked him nearly on the same spot Avhere, by a similar uumoeuvre, Macdonald, 2U0U years after- Avards, made a last cttbrt to defeat his Kussian antagonist — about 5 m. S. of the modern bridge. The battle of 1746 took place nearly imder the Avails of Moute 20. — Novara to Varallo. 67 Piacenza, the great feat of the day being Prince Lichtenstein's charge on Maille- bois' columns near to San Lazzaro. The battle-tield on the last occasion (June 20, 1799), between the French under Mac- donald, and the Austro-Eussians com- manded l>y Suwarrow, was on the 1. bank of the river from GrigTiauo upwards to Ilivalta, the tirst being about o m. on the right of the village of S. Kicolb, on the post-road, before arriving at Maria Louisa's bridge. Macdonald, being forced to retire from Tuscany, crossed the Apennines into the upper valley of the Trebbia, hoping to be joined by Moreau, then in the Genoese territory. Suw'arrow, however, managed, by his great activity, to prevent this junction, and to place himself between the two Kepublican armies. Attacked by INtac- donald during three days, he opposed to him an energetic resistance, the whole ending by one of the most disastrous defeats that the Kepublican armies of France had yet experienced. Soon after crossing the bridge the spires of Piaceuza come into view, and the Rly., after running past the half- ruined walls of the city, and the ele- gant Church of La Madonna di Cam- pagna on the rt., reaches Gl m. Piacenza Junct., situated at the E. extremity of the city, outside the Porta S. Lazzaro. (Rte. 101.) KOUTE 20. NOVARA TO VARALLO, BY BOKGOSESIA. Miles. Statious. Routes. Novara . . 2, 14, 21 3 Vignale .... 31 7 S. Bernardino 11 Briona 12 Fara 19 Romagnano 26 Valduggia 27 Borgosesia 35 Varallo On (luittiug Novara (Kte. 2), the lily, runs N.VV., audat Vignale leaves on the rt. the line to ,Gravelloua. A fertile counti'y is traversed to j 12 m. Fara. ! Vercelli. Steam Tramway S. to 19 m. Romagnano on the Sesia, remarkable as the spot where Bayard received his death-wound while pro- tecting the rear of the French under Bonnivet in their retreat across the Alps, April 20, 1524. The remainder of the line up the course of the Sesia is singularly beautiful ; the moun- tains otfer richly -wooded slopes, and the masses are relieved by castles, churches, and oratories. The vegeta- tion is most luxuriant. 26 m. Valduggia, the home of Claudenzio Ferrari's family, lies on the Stroua, 1 m. to the rt. Near the Stat, is the junction of the Strona with the Sesia. Monte Fenera, 3 hrs. E., is a splendid point of view for the lakes and Alps, and has three curious caverns hung with stalactites. 27 m. Borgosesia (4000), the chief town of the valley, has paper mills and cotton factories, and is surrounded by pleasant Promenades. In the Church of SS. Pietro e Paolo is a Vir- gin and Child with Saints, by Lanini (1539). An iron bridge crosses the Sesia to Aranco, whence a steam tram way runs S. to (30 m.) Vercelli, passing (21 m.) Gattinara, celebrated for its wine. Nearly a mile S. of the Stat, is the Pilgrimage Church of Montrigone, dedicated to St, Anne, with terra- cotta figures illustrating the History of the Virgin, by Giov. d' Enrico and Giacomo Ferro. The head of a dead Christ, in a cell outside the Church, is attributed by Mr. S. Butler to Tabac- chetti (see below). In another cell is a good kneeling figure of St. John the Baptist. Onm. daily at 2.30, from Borgosesia by Valdwjijia, the tunnel of San Ber- nardo, and Po(jno,to Gozuino (Rte. 31). The valley now becomes narrower, and the lily, offers some strikiu- F 2 68 Boute 20. — Varallo : Sacro Monte. scenes, though the range of view is more limited. It opens again in the neighbourhood of 35 m. VARALLO (1515 ft.), a beau- tifully situated town of 3200 inhab., exclusive of pilgrim visitors to the Sacro Monte, who, especially on the Feasts of the Church, crowd here as devotees. At the Casino di Lettura the Italian Alpine Club has quarters, and politely admits to them the mem- bers of foi'eign Alpine Clubs. Here is also a Museum, with a collection of granite rocks, Herbarium, &c. S. Gaudenzio has a fine altarpiece on panel, by Gaud. Ferrari ; a beau- tiful Madonna del Rosario, over an altar in the rt. transept, modelled by Tahacchetti ; and in the Chapel of St. Joseph a Madonna by a native artist, Dedomenici da Rossa (1840), of considerable merit. On the outside wall of S. Pietro, beyond the bridge towards Mollia, is a fresco of Sta. Petronilla, by G. Ferrari. The latter was painted by moonlight, and is almost destroyed. The *Sacro Monte (2000 ft.) rises immediately above the town, and is accessible by a paved path, which winds up the side of the hill, and offers from every turn the most beautiful scenes. In the fine Franciscan Church of S. M. delle Grazie, at the foot of the hill, are some admirable works by Gaudenzio Ferrari (born here in 1484, d. at Milan in 1 546). Near the Church is a marble statue of the painter, by Vedova. The whole wall dividing the nave from the choir is painted in fresco, in 19 compartments, represent- ing events in our Saviour's history, with the Crucifixion in the centre. They are all most carefully executed, and are among the best works of the master, serving to illustrate his posi- tion in Italian art. Pilate is a portrait of Stefano Scotto, Gaud. Ferrari's master. In the chapel of St. Margaret, to the rt., are the Circumcision and the Dispute with the Doctors. In the cloister is a Pieta ; and in the sacristy a Virgin and Saints, on wood, by| Giovenone, much injured. The hill of the Sacro Monte isi covered with a series of 50 chapels, containing groups of figures modelled in terra-cotta, painted and clothed. They chiefly represent some of the principal events in the history ot Christ, in the order of their occur- rence. These structures are never entered : they are merely frames or cases for the subjects grouped within them, seen from peep-holes in front. As works of art the greater number are very indifTerent. A few, on the contrary, contain works of the highest merit, and to these the attention of every traveller of taste is specially invited. Externally, these oratories are rich in the architectural display of facades, porticoes, domes, "&c. : the figures Avithin are the size of life. All the walls are painted, and many of the pictures are masterly produc- tions. The most important works are the frescoes, and a few modelled figures, by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and the terra-cotta groups by Tahacchetti (c. 1560-164:0). The latter, whose real name was De Wespin, was a Fleming, and received the nickname of Tahaguet, Italianized into Tahac- clietti. The other artists here em- ployed were Giovanni d'Fnrico, born about 1580, died at Montrigone near Borgosesia in 1 644 ; his brothers Antonio and Meld dor ; and his pupil Giacomo Ferro.j Much effect is produced by the ap- propriate situation of some of the sub- jects. The access to the place where (Christ is laid in the sepulchre is by a vault, where little light is admitted ; and as it is difficult on entering from the open day to distinguish at first any object, the effect is very imposing. Many of the figures are clothed in real drapery, and some have real hair, which appears grotesque ; yet tlj^y are full of character and expression. Many of the heads are finely modelled. t See " Ex Voto," by S. Butler, London, 1889 ; a valuable descriptive history of the Sacro Monte. Boiite 20. — Varallo : Sacro Monte. 69 The executioners conducting to Cal- vary, or otherwise employed in in- flicting sufferings on Christ, are, to increase the disgust for their cha- racters, modelled with goitres ap- pended to their throats. The Sacro Monte originated in the piety of the Blessed Bernardino Caimi, a noble Milanese, who became a Franciscan friar, made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and in 1486 obtained from Pope Innocent VIII. a faculty to found this Sanctuary. Only 3 or 4 chapels were built in the time of the founder, but after two visits paid to it by S. Carlo Borromeo in 1578 and 1584, the prestige of the spot for sanctity soon so increased, that princes and rich devotees con- tributed to its adornment. The subjects are — 1. Fall of Man. Adam and Eve are seen amidst animals of all sorts and sizes, from the ele- phant to the rabbit. Six of the smaller kinds are by Cav. An- tonini ; the rest, together with Adam and Eve, by Tahac- chetti. 2. Annunciation. One of the earliest Chapels. New heads were given to the figures by Tahacchetti. 3. Visitation. 4. Angel announcing to Joseph the Miraculous Conception. The sleeping figure of Joseph is very beautiful ; the Virgin, who is sewing a pillow, is pretty and graceful ; the Angel remarkably fine (by Tabacclietti). 5. Magi and Star of the East. Good rocks by Gaudenzio, high up to the rt. 6. Nativity, in a dark Grotto. 7. Joseph and Mary adoring Christ. 8. Circumcision. 9. Angel advising Joseph to fly into Egypt. Figures in stucco ; fine Angel ; good heads of the Virgin and Child. 10. Flight. ll.*Massacre of the Innocents. Above 60 figures, the size of life, besides the painted groups on the walls, so arranged as to assist in the composition. Chapel built be- tween 1586 and 1590, at the cost of Carlo Emanuele, Duke of Savoy. Figures by an un- known sculptor ; perhaps begun by Luigi Paracca of Como, nick- named Barcjnola (1557-87), and finished by M. A. Bossetti. 12. Baptism in the Jordan. 13. Temptation. The beasts with their young are excellent. Fresco background by Melcldor cVEn- rico. 14. Christ and the Woman of Sa- maria. 15. Christ Curing the Paralytic. 16. Christ Raising the Widow's Son. 17. Transfiguration. This oratory is on an enormous scale ; the group in the foreground contains the demoniac boy ; a blind man, and a boy with a bad foot lead- ing him, are both good ; on the mountain, an immense modelled mass, all very bad, are the three disciples ; above them Christ, with Moses and Elias ; over these, painted on the walls and ceiling of the dome, are the host of heaven. 18. Raising of Lazarus. 19. Entrance into Jerusalem. 20. Last Supper. One of the earliest; the figures of wood, and lifeless. The Supper is very profuse, and much later than the figures. 21. Christ in the Garden. Also early. 22. Christ finds his Disciples Sleep- ing. 23. Christ betrayed by Judas. Figures mostly old, and of wood. 24. Christ in the House of Annas (1765). 25. Christ in the hands of Caiaphas. Figures by Giovanni cVEnrico and Giacomo Ferro, except *Caiaphas, which is probably by Tahacchetti. Well-preserved frescoes by Cristoforo Marti- nolo. 26. Repentance of St. Peter. Peter by G. cVEnrico. 27. Christ in the House of Pilate. *Pilate by G. cVEnrico. 70 Boufp 20. — YaralJo : Mnanim. 28. Christ in the House of Herod. Herod and Two *lanj2;hing Boys {G. (VEiiriro). 20. C'lirist reconducted to Pilate. 2?> figures, mostly by Giar. Ferro ; frescoes finished in 1G79. 30. Flagellation. ]\[an binding Christ to the column, and probably two nearest Scourgers, by Tah((c- chetti. 31. Christ Crowned with Thorns. Three principal figures very fine, and probably by Tahaccheiti. 32. Christ again conducted to Pilate. 33. Christ shown to the People. Figure on extreme left, portrait of Stefano Scotto (his Master), by Gaud. Ferrari. Next to him, Giov. d'Enrico ; then Leonardo da Vinci ; then Tabacchetti. Two Children very pretty. 34. Pilate Washing his Hands. 17 figures, by Giov. cV Enrico: fres- coes, by one of his brothers. The man putting his finger to his mouth is excellent ; Pilate a failure. 35. Christ sentenced to Death. 27 good figures by G. d'Enrico ; frescoes by Morazzone (1G14). 36.*Christ Bearing the Cross. By far the finest. 40 figures besides 9 horses, by Tahaccheiti. 37. Christ Nailed to the Cross. GO figures and 10 horses, by d'Enrico or Ferro. 38. *Crucifixion (1.520-28). The paintings on the walls and ceil- ing of this chapel are the master- piece of Gaudenzio Fei-rari. The chief subject, a splendid composition, including 60 or 70 figures, is in good preservation. Portraits of S. Scotto and L. da Vinci, side by side. 30. Christ taken down from the Cross. ]^ad, except a *figure on the left (11 Vecchietto), holding his hat, Avhich is by Tabacchetti, and probably his own portrait. 40. Pieta. The frescoes, now much injured, were probably painted by Gandenzio, but the Chapel has been much altered since his time. It once formed part of No. 41. The original modelled figures have been removed, and others substituted. 41. The Body wrapped in Linen. 42. 8an Francesco. With a modern fresco. 43. Christ lying in the Sepulchre. " The upper part of this building was the abode of Caimi and his successors until 1577." — Butler. In the Cloister near it is the bed occupied by S. Carlo Borromeo, and a facsimile of the Stone which guarded the Holy Se- pulchre. 44. Saint Anna. 45. An Angel announcing to the Vir- gin Mary her Translation to Heaven. 4G. Sepulchre of the Virgin Mary. On the site of the modern Casino, now let out in apartments, stood the Chiesa Vecchia, which contained fi'es- coes by Gaudenzio and Lanini (1530). The existing Chiesa Maggiore was begun by d'Enrico in 1614. The Convent commands beautiful views of Varallo and the Val Sesia below the town. At the entrance to the Oratories, booths or shops are es- tablished for the sale of Corone, i.e. beads, crucifixes, ]Madomjas,&c., which have acquired sanctity by having touched the bed of S. Carlo, or other miracle-working relics. The Museum, in the town, contains some unimportant works by Giind. Fer- rari, frescoes by Lanini, and drawings by Tanzio d'Enrico. The beautiful Chapel of loreto, 2 m. E. of the town on the road to Novara, has a lunette by Gaud. Ferrari. Near Varallo are nickel mines worked by an English company. The population of the Val Sesia is about 35,000: most of the men leave the valley and find employment else- where as masons, builders, &c. There is good trout-fishing in the The Ponte della Gula, about 1 hr.'s waFk up the Val Mastallone, is a remarkable scene ; the green river hemmed in by vertical rocks 150 ft, Bonte 21. — Novara to Seretjno. 1 high, is spanned by a lofty bridge. A iiood carriage-road ascends to the vil- lage of Fobello (Rte. 40). EOUTE 21. NOVARA TO SEREGNO, BY BUSTO ARSIZIO AND SARONNO. Miles. Stations. Routes. Novara . . 2, 14, 20 4 Galliate 9 Turbigo 17 Busto Arsizio . . 33 26 Saronno . . 35, 36 32 Cesano 35 Seregno ... 32, 52 Soon after leaving Novara, the Rly. turns E. to Galliate, and crosses the Ticino to Turbigo, which figured in the militai-y operations of 1859 (Rte. 2). Thence N.E. ^ to Busto Arsizio, where the line is crossed between Milan and Gallarate (Rte. 33). In the principal Church, de- signed by Bramante, is a fine *As- sumption in six compartments, by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and some frescoes by Criov. Pietro Crespi, a follower of Luini. SAEONNO Junct. (7250). About ;|m. W. is the Santuaeio dell a Yeegixe, commenced in 1498, from the designs of Vincenzo delV Orfo. The cam- panile, cupola, high altar, and two side-chapels, were erected by Paolo Porta in the 16th cent. The front, which is overloaded with ornament, was built in 1666, from the design of Carlo Buzzi. Owing to this change of ai'chitects, the interior is somewhat irregular. The *Cupola is painted in fresco, by Gaudenzio Ferrari (1535). The subject is the heavenly host playing upon various instruments, with a circle of cherubs above them singing. " Truly a magnificent work, executed in all its parts with the greatest care, and for richness of colour and appropriateness of treat- ment one of the finest existing examples of this class of decora- tion." — Kugler. Below is a series of painted statues, in 12 niches, two figures in each, consisting for the most part of Prophets and Sibyls, as Sibylla Delphica and David, &c. ; there are also groups representing Calvary, the Last Supper, &c. Below, in circles in the peudentives, are eight subjects from Genesis, — the Creation of Eve; Eating the Forbid- den Fruit; Expulsion from Paradise (much injured); Tilling the Ground after the Fall ; Adam and Eve in the Garden, very fine ; Abel tending his Flocks ; Eemorse of Cain ; and Adam blessing his posterity ; these are also by Ferrari. The lunettes below are by Lanini. All these frescoes may be more easily seen from the gallery which runs round tiree sides beneath the cupola. In the passage which connects the nave and choir are two large frescoes by Luini — the Marriage of Joseph and Mary, with graceful figures, and Christ disputing with the Doctors. On the wall 1. of the high altar is the Presentation in the Temple (1525), with a view of the Church, and opposite the * Adoration of the Magi, all well preserved. In the latter, the Virgin and Child are exquisite examples of that union of beauty and tenderness which dis- tinguishes Luini's best works ; the heads of the two kneeling kings are admirable, and the transparency of the colours throughout affords an ex- cellent example of fresco-painting. In the Disputation, although the figures of our Saviour and the Virgin are wanting perhaps in dignity, the whole is finely conceived; the heads of the Doctors are admirable. Luini's own portrait, which he has intro- 72 Botite 21. — Seregno. duced, is very fine. All these paint- ings have been published by the Arundel Society. In the Sacristy is a picture by G. C. Procaorini. On the wall of the cloister leading to the priest's house is a Nativity, by Lnini. He was paid for the single figures of saints a sum corresponding to 22 fr., besides wine, bread and lodging, and was so well pleased with his pay that he painted this last fresco for nothing. Ely. N.W . to Varese, N. to Como, S.E. to Milan. Beyond Saronno the Ely. turns E., and at Cesano crosses the line between Milan and Erba (Kte. 37). Seregno (7G00), the Junct. of several lines of Hly., is pleasantly situated at the S.VV. corner of the Brianza (Kte. 32). ( 73 ) PART II. THE LAKES. LIST OF ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 31. From the Simplon to No- vara, by Domodossola, Gravellona, and Orta . . 73 32. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gotthard Tunnel . . 76 33. Laveno to Milan, by Gal- larate and Busto Arsizio . 80 34. Gallarate to Arona ... 80 35. Laveno to Milan, by Varese and Saronno .... 82 36. Como to Milan, by Saronno . 84 37. Milan to Erba, by Seveso and the Brianza ... 88 38. Lecco to Como, by Merone. 89 39. Bellinzona to Luino. . . 90 EOUTE PAGE 40. Luino to Menaggio, by Lugano 41. Coire to Colico, by the Spltigen and Chiavenna . 42. Milan to Innsbruck, by the Stelvio 43. Como to Colico, by Steamer. — The Lake of Como . 44. Como to Lecco, by Bellagio 45. Baveno to Varallo, by Monte Motterone and Orta . 46. Varallo to Macugnaga, by the Val Mastallone 47. Ai'ona to Locarno. — Lago Maggiore 90 93 96 104 108 109 111 112 ROUTES. EOUTE 31. FROM THE SIMPLON TO NOVABA, BY DOMO- DOSSOLA, GRAVELLONA, AND ORTA. — CAERIAGE-ROAD AND RAIL. Miles Stations. Domodossola 4 Villadossola 7 Piedimulera 9 Vogogna 14 Cuzzago 17 Ornavasso 20 Gravellona 22 Crusinallo 24 Omegna 28 Fettenasco 30 Orta 32 Bolzano Eoutes. Miles. Stations. Routes. 34 Crozzano 5 Alzo 38 Borgomanero 42 Cressa Fontaneto 48 Momo 65 Vignale. ... 20 57 Novara The passage of the Simplon from Brieg (224.5 ft.), is described in the Handbook for Sifitzerlancl and Pied- mont. The Italian frontier and Custom- house is at 30 m. Iselle (2175 ft.), one of the most beautiful points of the pass. Hereabouts a change comes over 74 Route ;>!. — CrrroJa— Omegna. the valley, from nakedness or a mantle of shrubs, to the rich green of the chestnut, and tlie light foliage of the acacia. Tlu' last gallery is traversed 2 ra, before reaching 3G m. Crevola (1100 ft)., where the Doveria is crossed for the last time by a bridge 100 ft. high, previous to its flowing into the Toccia, or Tosa, which here issues out of the Val Formazza. See Handhool: for Switzer- land. The Val d'Ossola, which is now entered, is thoroughly Italian. The balmy air, the trellised vines, the rich juicy stalks of the maize, the almost deafening chirp of the grasshoppers or tree-crickets, and, at night, the equally loud croaking of the frogs — the white villages, with their tall, square bell-towers, not only scattered thickly along the valley, but perched on every little jutting platform on the hill-sides — all these proclaim the entrance to Italy. A long straight road leads from Crevola to 42 m. Dome d'Ossola (1000 ft.), a rising town, of 3700 inhab. The fine Palazzo Silva, restored in 18S2, con- tains Antiquities and objects of Art. In the Convent of S. Francesco has been arranged the Galletti Museum of Natural History; and at the 3Iuni- cipio is a Library of 8000 vols, and a Collection of 3000 Coins and Medals. There is a Calvary \ hr. S. of the town, worth a visit, and commanding a fine view. The Val d'Ossola and its side valleys are of great interest to mine- ralogists. For Excursions, &c., see IJandhooh to Hvitzerland. Rly. onward. The Stat, is about h m. E. of the town. On leaving Domo, the Ely. descends the valley of the Tosa, passing 4 m. Villadossola, with its very old Church and tall campanile, at the mouth of Val Antrona and the Pass leading into the Saas Thai. From 7 m. Piedimulera a road branches off on the rt. along the Anzasca (Ilandhooh for Sinitzerlarid.) to Ma- (■iKjiiafja at the foot of Monte Kosa. 9 m. Vogogna (740 ft.), a cheerful town with an old Castle on the height. Here the Tosa becomes navigable to Lago Maggiore. At (14 m.) Cuzzago, a road branches ott' I. to Fallanza, passing along the beautiful Lake of Mergozzo. The Ely. crosses the Tosa by a bridge nearly \ m. long to 16 m. Omavasso, near which are the quarries of white marble which furnished the material for the Cathe- dral of Milan. The marble here forms a mass in the crystalline gneiss rock, and affords a good example of what geologists call metamorphism. Along the carriage - road granite obelisks do duty as telegraph-posts. 20 m. Gravellona, where the Strona from the Lake of Orta falls into the Tosa. On the 1. rises the hill of ]Montorfano, celebrated for its quar- ries of pink granite, used in the re- building of the Basilica of St. Paul's at Eome. [Carriage-road to (8 m.) Pallanza, re- crossing the Tosa. Omn. to (5 m.) Baveno (Ete. 47), reaching the Lake at (3 m.) Feriolo. Hence it follows the water's edge, passing several large quarries of granite, extensively used in the public edifices of Milan, Turin, &c.]] On quitting Gravellona, the Ely. ascends the pretty valley of the Strona, with its numerous mills of cotton, paper, nail-heads, &c., and beyond 22 m. Crusinallo crosses the river near its confluence with the Nigocjlia, which issues from the Lake of Orta. The Rly. then describes a curve before reaching ^ 24 m. Omegna, an industrial town with a handsome Town Hall, old Church and Campanile, and important I^nutf 81 . — Peitinasco — Vicpiah Market on Thursday. It stauds on both banks of the Nigoglia. at the N. end of the beautiful Lago d'Orta. (Steamer to Orta, twice a day ; boat with one rower, 8 fr.) •i hrs. E. rises Monte Motterone, best ascended from the other side (Rte. 45). [The Vol Strona here turns W., and becomes a narrow glen, whose steep sides are clothed with fine forest- trees and a beautiful and varied vege- tation. A good path, in some parts rather steep, ascends the 1. bank to (3J hrs.) Forno, and thence over rough ground to (li hrs.) Campello, a very picturesque vil- lage. Here the path turns 1., leaving the source of the Strona and a track to the Val Anzasca rt., and ascends fii'st over rocks and then by slopes of grass to the (1^ hr.) Col di Campello (6400 ft.), on the ridge which separates Val Strona from Val Mastallone. Fine distant view of Monte Rosa, whose five peaks rise like turrets from the prodigious inaccessible wall which forms its E. face. A steep descent of \\ hr. leads to the village of Eimella in Val Mastallone ; 2 hrs. further is Fdbello. The carriage-road from thence to Varallo is given in Rte. 46. [From Rimella there is a mule- path by the Col clella Dorchetta to Ponte Grande, in about 6 hrs. At the last hamlet of the valley it crosses the torrent, and, turning 1., ascends by a lateral stream to a group of high chalets, where milk can be obtained. Thence up steep and bare ground to the col, which is a grassy hollow marked by a cross, 2^ hrs. from Ri- mella. Ponte Grande is seen far down in the Val Anzasca, but the Pizzo del Moro and Cima d'Egua conceal the Monte Rosa peaks. The descent is long and steep, over rolling stones to the Alpi della Dorchetta, then by meadows to the Baranca path, 1 hr. above Ponte Grande, which is reached in .^J hrs. from the col. Another way from Omegna to (8 hrs.) Varallo, rather longer and more laborious than the ordinary route by the Col di Colma, but much shorter than that by the Val Strona, is by the village of Quariia, and from thence over Monte Mazzucone to Co- masco. This mountain is a some- what enlarged edition of the Motte- rone, which lies a few miles farther E. It is situated nearer Monte Rosa, but is not so centrally placed in regard to the lakes.] The Rly. is carried high above the shore of the Lake, affording a series of splendid views, and crosses a via- duct to 28 m. Pettinasco. The village is on the rt. below. To the L, the tor- rent of the Pescone descends from Motterone. Another fine viaduct and a bold curve lead to 30 m. Orta (Rte. 45). The Stat, lies about a mile E. of the town, eqviidistant from Miasino. Thence, passing the watch tower of Buccione and the episcopal Palace and Semi- nary of Bolzano, to 34 m. Gozzano Junct. Omn. to (10 m.) Borgosesia. Rly. N.N.W. to Alzo, whence an omn. runs to Bor- gosesia Stat, for Varallo (Rte. 20). 38 m. Borgomanero. Arona (Rte. 34). At 8 m. N.E. lies 55 m. Vignale Junct. the Varallo line falls in on the rt., and the Rly. contimies S.E, to 57 m. Novara Junct. (Rte. 2). 76 JRoute 32. — Lucerne to Milan. ROUTE 32. LUCERNE TO MILAN, BY THE ST. GOTTHARD TUNNEL. INIiles. Stations. Routes. Lucerne 146 Ghiasso 149 Como .... 38 152 Albate Camerlata 157 Cantu Asnago 161 Camnago ... 37 165 Seregno . . 21, 52 167 Desio 171 Monza .... 51 179 Milan 2, 18, 53,54, 301 This important Railway (1872-81) was designed to open a dii-ect com- munication between W. Germany and the Italian cities of Milan, Genoa, and Venice. The St. Gotthard was always one of the most fi-equented passes of the Alps ; and the piercing of the Tunnel through the main chain now renders it passable for goods and passengers throughout the year. The carriages are entered from either ex- tremity with a passage through the centre, well arranged for seeing the views, but rather draughty. Most travellers will prefer the Steamer as far as (27 m.) Fluelen. Boats run 5 or 6 times a day in 2 j; to 2f hrs. On quitting Lucerne the Rly. crosses the Reuss, and runs E. to 11 m. Rothkreuz Junct., where the line to Zurich turns oif to the 1. Thence to IG m. Immensee, on the W, shore of the lake of Zug. The Rly. now skirts the N. base of the Rigi. To the 1. rises the Bossherg. A tunnel leads to 21 m. Arth-Goldau, also a Stat, on one of the remarkable railways up the Rigi, which is crossed by our line. The Rly. is carried for some distance through the midst of the tremendous debris of rock and rubbish brought down by the vast Landslip from the Bossherg, which buried this village in 1806, falling from a height of 3000 ft. The Lake of Lowerz, 3 m. long, which was partly driven out of its bed by the landslip, is skirted at 24 m. Steinen. Further on is 26 m. Seewen, the Stat, for (1 m.) Schwyz (6700), a town picturesquely situated at the foot of the singular mitre-shaped JSlythen (6244 ft.), which has been conspicuous all the way from Arth. The Rly. is carried along the 1. bank of the Muotta, as far as its influx into the Lake of Lucerne at 29 m. Brunnen, the port of the Canton Schwyz — situated on one of the loveliest spots on the lake, two of whose romantic bays it commands. A tunnel under the Giitsch now con- ducts the Rly. to the base of the pre- cipices and steep pastures which form the E. shore of the grand *Bay of Uri. Ten tunnels are traversed between Brunnen and Fluelen, the longest of which (IJ m.), is near 32 m. Sisikon. On the opposite shore, under the wooded heights of Seelisberg, is the green meadow of Riitli, the scene of the oath of the three patriot Schwyzers, which led to the emancipation of the Forest Cantons, Nov. 7, 1307. The meadow with its Three Springs is the property of the Swiss Government. A little further on the Rly. passes Tells Platte, marked by a Chapel painted with frescoes (not seen from the train), Avhere Tell sprung ashore and escaped from the boat which was carrying him to prison. 36 m. riiielen (1435 ft.), at the S. end of the lake (It. Flora). The Grup torrent to the 1. is usually a qui^ stream, but after it had been bridge for the Rly. it rose and swept away bridge and roadway clean into the lake. A gallery of masonry, paved wdth big stones, now protects the line, Moute 32. — Altdorf — St. Gotthard Tunnel. 77 and carries the stream overhead, allowing the torrent to spread in- nocuously. The Ely. now enters the valley of the Reuss, running over the flat marsh on its rt. bank. 38 m. Altdorf (4000), the capital of Canton Uri, famed in the story of Tell, is the place where he shot the apple off his son's head. 42 m. Erstfeld (1505 ft.). Here the line begins to ascend the slopes on the rt. bank of the Reuss to 45 m. Amsteg (1759 ft.). The Stat. is high above the village. The torrent from the Maderaner Thai, and shortly afterwards the Reuss, are crossed by lofty bridges. Beyond a tunnel the Rly. is carried over a grand viaduct, to which succeed two more tunnels and a lofty *Bridge (250 ft. high) over the Reuss. 50 m. Gurtnellen (2300 ft.). Further on occurs the first of the very remark- able corkscrew or Helix Tunnels, bored in the rock in a circle or loop, with a radius of only 330 yds. and a gra- dient of 1 in 43 ; thus the railway attains rapidly a higher level by means of a species of spiral staircase within the mountain. The first of these is the Pfaffen- spruncj Tunnel (1635 yds.), so called from a legend that a monk once leaped over the gorge from the rock above it. The upper end of the tunnel is 115 ft. above the lower. The Second Loop, or Wattiager Tunnel (1200 yds.), gaining 75 ft. of vertical height, leads to 55 m. Wasen (3055 ft.). The wonderful works of the railway, in the midst of the most romantic scenery, may be well viewed from the Church- yard. Crossing the Mayen Reuss, which flows from the Susten, on a fine Bridge, 260 ft. high, the train reaches the 3rd Helix of Leggistein, 1204 yds. long. Again the Rly. resumes its original direction up the valley, look- ing down upon Wasen far below The Naxberg Tunnel, a mile long, with a rise of 120 ft., leads to 60 m. Goschenen (3640 ft.), where the train waits ^ hr. for luncheon or dinner. In this village, at the N. entrance of the great tunnel, the workshops and waterworks for boring it were established. Here is a monu- ment to Louis Favre. [4 m. higher up, on the carriage- road, is Andermatt, approached by the wild gorge of Schoilenen and the tunnel of the Urner Joch. The old Devil's Bridge fell in 1888. On the heights above Andermatt the Swiss are erecting an extensive series of Forts.] The Rly. now enters the St. Gotthard Tunnel. This stupendous opening, bored through the main chain of the Alps for a distance of 9^ m. (1| m. longer than the Mont Cenis), runs N. and S. at an elevation of 3786 ft. above the sea, and about 6000 ft. below the topmost ridge of the mountain. It passes almost directly under the Devil's Bridge. It was begun in Nov. 1872; the borings from the two ends met with wonderful exactness on 29th Feb. 1880, and it was opened for trafiic in 1882 at a cost of 2,375,000L The enterprising con- tractor was M. Louis Favre of Geneva, who died suddenly in the tunnel seven months before its completion. The boring was effected by 26 drills moved by compressed air, piercing holes 4 ft. deep, which were filled with charges of dynamite. Each explosion brought down 2J cubic metres of stone. The rock traversed was chiefly hard gra- nite or gneiss, also schist and other rocks. Near the centre a stratum of wet shifting rock-rubbish, semi-fluid, was met with, which exercised great pressure, always descending, and was vanquished only by masonry supports, buttresses, and arches of enormous strength. The tunnel (28 ft. wide and 21 ft. high) is lined throughout with masonry, and has double rails. Duratioai of transit, 20 to 30 min. 78 Boute 3 2 . — Airolo — L ugano. There are 15 lanterns, one at the end of each kilom. The tunnel ends near 70 ni. Airolo (:>75(J ft.), on the river Tieino, wliose course tlie Kly. hence- forth follows down the Val Leventina. Below 77 m. Fiesso (3100 ft.) the Ely. threads the ravine of Uazio Grande, beyond -which are the 4th and 5th spiral tunnels of Freggio (1 m.) and Pmfo (1712 yds.). 82 m. Faido (2365 ft.)- The train now descends the left bank of the Tieino, passing through numerous tunnels. Below^ 86 m. Lavorgo the final and steepest descent is effected by several tunnels, including the two spiral ones of Fiano- Toiido and Traci ; the lily, passes through superb scenery of rocks and forests, crossing the river to 90 m. Giornico (1480 ft.). The Vil- lage (1295 ft.) has an old massive Lombard Toa-cr, and a very early Romanesque Churchy San Niccolo da Mira. By a lattice-girder bridge of two spans, each 150 ft., the Rly. re-crosses the Tieino, and continues on its E. side the rest of the way. •J7 m. Biasca (1112 ft.) is situated opposite a fine waterfall at the mouth of the Val Blegno, opening from the pass of the Lukmanier into the Tieino valley (Swiss Handhooh). The Rly., now in the level valley, is terraced along the base of the mountains, through a country of exu- berant fertility and dense vegetation, passing the villages of Osogna and Claro. Beyond 107 m. Castione, the Val Mesocco opens out, and the road from the San Bernardino Pass falls in on the 1. i^Swiss HandbouJi). 109 m. Bellinzona J unct. (780 ft.), a picturesque tow n (2600), still sur- rounded by old walls and crowned by three Caslhs, was long regarded as the key to the entrance of Italy from Switzerland. It stands on the 1. bank of the Tieino, over which there is a bridge of 10 arches. The Castello Grande to the W. was built, as well as the two other fortresses, in 1445, by Italian engineers for Filippo Maria Visconti. They afterwards became the residences of the bailiff's of the canton. Ascent of Monte Camoghe (7300 ft.) in 7 hrs. (Rte. 40). Rly. S.S.W. to Luino, turning off' from our line at 111 m. Giubiasco (Rte. 39). The Rly. now leaves the valley of the Tieino, and commences the ascent along the side of the valley towards Monte Cenere. After traversing the slopes of the mountains for about four miles, crossing ravines on lattice bridges and penetrating rocks in tun- nels, the mouth of the Monte Cenere Tunnel, 1 m. in length and 1440 ft. above the sea, is reached ; on emerg- ing from it the train enters the valley of the Agno, a stream flowing into the Lake of Lugano. 119 m. Eivera Bironico (1420 ft.). Henceforth the Rly. follows closely the line of the old carriage-road to 124 m. Taveme. 1 hr. E. lies Sala (Rte. 40). 4 hrs. N.AV. rises Moute Tamaro (6430 ft.). Grand *view. Then follows the Massagno Tannd (1020 yds.), on emerging from which a fine view is gained of 128 m. Lugano (1100 ft.), below the Stat, on the 1. (Rte. 40). The Rly. now passes over a lofty viaduct, and through a tunnel J m. long, under the slopes of Monte Sal- vatore, where the roclis exhibit a phenomenon highly interesting to the geologist. About 5 m, beyond the ])romontory and ruined chapel of San Martino a compact smoke-gre> lime- stone appears by the roadside, in bt^ about a foot thick. As we advance, we find the limestone traversed by small veins, lined with rhombs ot Dolomite; and farther on, where the Moute 32. — Melide — Camnago. 79 mouutaiu is perpendicular, its face is formed entirely of Dolomite, or white marble. Towards Melide it is suc- ceeded by a dark augite porphyry. Von Buch considered that the gas from this igneous rock penetrated the limestone. loo m. Melide, Here a promontory projects into the lake, from the point of which a stone causeway 2 ni. long has been thrown across, connected with either shore by stone bridges. It cost more than a million francs. 136 m.Maroggia. [Carriage-road 1. to (7 m.) Lanzo d'Intelvi (3120 ft.), a favourite resort from May 15 to Oct. 15, commanding magnificent views of the lake and surrounding mountains, and M. Eosa in the dis- tance. The road descends on the other side to (9 m.) Argegno (Rte. 43). There is a mule track from Lanzo to M. Generoso.] The lake is quitted at 139 m. Capolago, whence a cog-wheel Rly, ascends in I i hr. (Return Ticket, 10 fr.) to *Monte Geiieroso (5390 ft.), the Rigi of the Italian lakes, but with a far finer mountain view. Passengers for the Hotel Monte Generoso (4000 ft.) alight at the Bella Vista Stat., IJ hr. below the summit. The panorama em- braces the lake scenery and the Alpine chain, from Monte Viso to the Ada- mello group, the great plain of Lom- bardy and its cities, Milan with its Duomo, the courses of the Po and Ticino. A path from the hotel leads in 5 hrs. to ArgegiKJ on the Lake of Como (Rte. 43). The Rly. continues to 141 m. Mendrisio (1190 ft.), with manufactories of paper, silk, and hats, and 2300 inhab. The Avine of the country is stored in mountain caves, which form capital cellars. 2 m. S.W. are the sulphureous Baths of Stahhio. The Italian frontier and custom- house is reached at 146 m. Chiasso (765 ft.), Bulfct, where carriages are changed. A long tunnel under Monte Olimpino leads to 149 m. Como (Rte. 36). The Stat, is above the town to the W. Below, close to the lake, is another Stat, of the Nurd-MUam Rly. (Rte. 36). The line ascends above the city, passing- close to S. Abbondio and the Campo Santo, and intersecting the Rly. from Varese (Rte. 35). Further on, the hill crowned with the tower of Bara- dello rises on the rt. Several hand- some stone bridges carry the cross I'oads over the line. Beyond 152 m. Camerlata Junct. is a short tunnel. Here the Rly. to Lecco diverges on the left (Rte. 38). 157 m. Cantu. The bell-tower was formerly used as a beacon, corres- ponding with that upon the Baradello. The fires blazing on the summit have often announced the advance of the Milanese against the Comaschi during their frequent wars ; and the Bara- dello, equally by its fires, gave notice of the approach of any enemy on the side of the lake. Galliano, h m. E. of Cantu, has a curious Lombard Church, now a barn, with Christian inscriptions of the 4th cent. Some ancient frescoes, executed in the 11th, were painted by order of Arimbert, Archbishop of Milan. They contain portraits of the emperor Henry and his wife Cune- gunda. The Baptistery is remark- able. 161 m. Camnago Junct., whence a short line runs S.ioSeveso SanPietro. In the Church of Camnago is the tomb of Volta. Further on we cross the Rly. from Seveso to Erha (Rte. 37). [2 m. rt. lies Baiiassina, with a sup- pressed Convent of Dominicans, now an Ecclesiastical Seminary. It marks the site of the Avood where Peter Martyr was slain by two hired assas- sins in 125-'. About 2 m. farther on the road to Milan is the extensive 80 Hoiite 34. — Gallarate to Atona. Villa Cesano, belonging to the Bor- romeo family.] 165 m. Seregno Junct. (7700). lily. E. to Bergamo (Rte. 52); W. to Saronno (Rte. 21). 2 m. 1. is tlie village of Curate, on rising ground above the Lambro. 167 m. Desio. Here the Torriani were entirely routed by the Visconti in 1277. The Villa Traversa, with a fine garden, contains some Roman inscriptions. A tunnel leads to 171 m. Monza Junct., for which, and for the remainder of the Rly. journey to 179 m. Milan, see Rte. 51. KOUTE 33. LAVENO TO MILAN, BY GALLARATE AND BUSTO AESIZIO. 10 17 20 25 28 37 42 46 This No vara through Stations. Routes. Laveno . . . 14, 35 Ternate Varano Besnate Gallarate . . 3-i 12 Varese ... 35 Busto Arsizio . . 21 Legnano Rho 2 Musocco Milan Rly. turns S.W. from the line (Rte. 14), and runs pleasant scenery to 10 m. Ternate Varano, at the N. end of the little lake of Comahhio. Thence to 20 m. Gallarate Junct. (8000), m here the lines from Arona and Varese fall in rt. and I. The town stands on the rt., at the foot of the E. side of the Somma hills, at the commencement of the fertile region that extends to Milan. At 25 m. Busto Arsizio we cross the line from Novara to Saronno (Rte. 21). 28 m. Legnano. Near this place Frederic Barbarossa was utterly de- feated by the Milanese in 1176, a de- feat followed 7 years later by the Peace of Constance, which terminated, ac- cording to Sismondi, " in the establish- ment of a legal liberty, the first and most noble struggle which the nations of modern Europe have ever main- tained against despotism." In the church is a *Madonua and Saints, by B. Lidni. 'SI m. Rho Junct. Within an hour by carriage to the E. is the pretty park of Leinate, a pleasant excursion from Milan. The remainder of the line to 46 m. Milan (Rte. 51), is described in Rte. 2. EOUTE 34. GALLARATE TO ARONA. Jlilcs. Stations. Gallarate . 5 Somma Lombardo 8 Vergiate 11 Sesto Calende . 16 Arona . Routes. . 33 14 14 On leaving Gallarate (Rte. 33), the Rly. runs a little N. of W. to 5 m. Sonuna Lombardo. The town Route 34. — Vercjiate. — Arona. 81 is situated 500 ft. above Lago Mag- giore, at the top of a ridge parallel to the course of the Ticiuo, consisting of sand and gravel, with huge boulders. lu many parts it forms a waste, covered with heath, and known as the Brughiera of Somma and Gallarate. Efforts have been made at different times to brin'g it into cultivation, but to little purpose. There is a mediaeval Castle bearing the arms of the Visconti at Somma ; but the object most in- teresting is an enormous cypress-tree, said to date from the time of Julius Caesar, It is an angle formed by the bend of the carriage-road, which Napoleon is said to have caused to be diverted from its straight course in order to prevent the destruction of the tree. In this neighbourhood took place the battle between Scipio and Hannibal (b.c. 218), wherein the latter was victorious, A military camp has been established close by, where large bodies of troops are ex- ercised during the summer months. The Ely. now crosses the Strona, and runs nearly N. across a moorland tract to 8 m. Vergiate, which lies on the rt. Here the line turns due W., passes through a tunnel, and proceeds to 11 m. Sesto Calende Junct., on the Ely. between Novara and Luino (Rte. 14). The Ticino is now crossed by a fine *Bridge (1882), with iron lattice girders resting on stone piers and abutments. Each of the three spans measures 80 to 100 yds., and below the Rly. runs the carriage-road. The shore of the lake is now fol- lowed at some little distance to 16 m. Arona (740 ft.), an ancient town (3750), and the principal port at the S. end of Lago Maggiore. The Church of Santa Maria contains a fine oil-painting on wood by *Gaudenzio Ferrari (1511)— a Holy Family, with SS. Catharine, John Evan., a bishop, and Peter Martyr, who introduces Countess Borromeo, the donor ; God the Father with Angels and four Saints in the lunette. It is signed Vinci, N. Italy. the name of the painter's mother. This Church is the burying-place of the Borromeo family, though San Carlo and the celebrated Card. Federigo both rest in the Cathedral at Milan. San Carlo was born iu 1538 in the old family Castle above the town, which the French destroyed in 1797. He died in 1584, and was canonized by Paul V. in 1610. On a hill, ^ hr. N. of the Stat., stands the Colossal Statue of San Carlo Borromeo, 70 ft. high, on a pe- destal of 40 ft. The head, hands, and feet alone are cast in bronze ; the rest of the figure is formed of sheets of beaten copper, arranged round a pillar of rough masonry which forms the support of it. The saint is repre- sented in Cardinal's robes, extending his hand towards the lake, and be- stowing his benediction. There is grace in the attitude, in spite of the gigantic proportions of the figure, and altogether the effect is good and im- pressive. It was erected in 1697, principally by subscriptions from the Borromean family. It is possible to enter the statue and to mount up into the head, but the ascent is tiresome, and the heat oppressive. Between the folds of the upper and lower drapery the adventurous climber squeezes himself through, and then clambers up the stone pillar by placing his feet upon iron bars or cramps, till he reaches the head, which is capable of holding three persons. Here he may sit down in the recess of the nose, which serves as an arm-chair. In the neighbour- ing Church several relics of San Carlo are preserved. From la Bocca, on a hill above Arona, there is a fine view. The geologist will find near the quarries of limestone (Dolomite) an interest- ing contact of the magnesian lime- stone and red porphyry. For Excursions by Steamer on the Lake, see Ptte. 47. 82 Route 35. — Laveno to Milan. ROUTE 35. LAVENO TO BJILAN, BY VARESE AND SARONNO. Milee Stations. Routes Laveno . 14,33 3 Cittiglio 8 Gavirate 10 Barasso 13 Casbeno 15 Varese 3 Malnate 10 Olgiate 15 Grandate 16 Camerlata 18 Como 19 Como Lago . 36 18 Malnate 19 Vedano 20 Venegono Castigl lone 24 Tradate 32 Saronno 21.36 46 Milan This Ely. is managed by the Nord Milano Co., whose carriages are arranged ou the American system, with a central passage, and afford very little room. The country tra- versed is extremely beautiful. Laveno, the principal town on the E. side of Lago Maggiore, on the Ely. from Bellinzona to Novara and Genoa (Rte. 14), is prettily situated at the foot of a lofty well- wooded mountain on the shores of a small, well-protected bay. Its manufactories of porcelain are worth visiting. The Austrians fortified it by the erection of two strong redoubts, now abandoned, and visible to the rt. and 1. of the port. Laveno is supposed to occupy the site of the Ivonian station of Labienum. Leaving the town, tbe Illy, skirts the base of the Sasso di Ferro (349u ft,), which forms so fine an object in the landscape from Lago Maggiore. 3 m. Cittiglio. From this Stat, a road up the ^'al Cuvio branches off 1. to Luino. 8 m. Gavirate, a large village on rising ground near the W. extremity of the La]:e of Varese, over which the view is very beautiful. A great deal of silk is produced hereabouts, and in the neighbourhood are quarries of the variety of marble called marmo majo- lica by the Milanese, extensively used for ornamental purposes : it is a variety of compact limestone of the age of our lower English chalk-beds. A pathway leads S.E. to (1 m.) Voltorre, an old monastery, with interesting cloisters, having brick arches, tall shafts of uneven lengths, and curiously carved capitals. 1 m. N.E. is the Stat, of 10 m. Barasso. The Ely. now as- cends, commanding a magnificent pros- pect over the lakes of Comabbio, Monate, and Varese. On the descent to Varese the Madonna del IMonte (see below) is passed at some dis- tance to the 1. 18 m. Casbeno, the nearest Stat, to the Grand Hotel, which rises on the 1. of the line. 15 m. Varese Junct. (14,000). Ely. S. to Gallarate (Rte. 33). The prin- cipal Church contains frescoes, and a Magdalene, by Morazzone. The ad- joining Baptistery, original octagonal, is in the Lombard style. Close to it is an elegant Campanile (246 ft.), whose walls retain marks of the Austrian bombardment in May 18.59. In the Palazzo Quaglia, Via Dandolo, is a Collection of remains found I among the Lake dwellings of Lago Varese and the neighbouring peat- beds. Opposite the Alb. Italia is the Palace of Francesco HI. Duke of INIodena, now the Municipio, with a small Cabinet of Natural History. Ad- jacent are pleasant Public Gardens, commanding a fine view of the Monte Eosa range. Eound Varese (1300 ft.) are numerous villas of the wealthy Milanese, who reside here duringi^he autumn. The Eaces in October are much frequented. Here are several factories for the winding of silk from the cocoons. Bonte 35. — Malnate — San 83 8 m. N.W. is the *Madonna del Monte (2890 ft.), founded in 397 by St. Ambrose, to commemorate a great victory — not in argument, but in arms — gained by him on this spot over the Arians. The slaughter is said to have been so great that the heterodox party were exterminated. It was dedicated to the Virgin, and her statue, which was consecrated by St. Ambrose, is still preserved. Agapgiari, a Capu- chin, built out of funds raised by his exertions the 14 chapels which lead to the summit. The entrance to the Sanctuary road is through a species of triumphal arch, the first of three which separate the series of chapels. The 14 chapels represent the mys- teries of the Rosary : the first five the mysteries of joy, the second five those of grief, the remainder of glory. They contain coloured statues in stucco, like those at Varallo and Orta TRtes. 20 and 4.5), and frescoes, by Morazzone, Bianchi, Nuvolone, Legnani, and others of the l6th cent. Over the fountain near the last chapel is a fine colossal statue of Moses, by Gaetano Monti. The ascent to the Santuario affords magnificent views of the rich plain of Lombardv as far as the Apennines, af the higher and lower chains of the Alps, and the lakes of Varese, Co- mabbio, Biandrone, Monate, Maggiore, md Como. 1 hr. N.W. is the summit )f the Tre Croci (3965 ft.), command- ng a still finer view. Pleasant drive N.E. to (8 m.) Porto Jeresio (Rte. 40), on the Lake of ugano — very interesting to geolo- gists. [Rly. E. through fine scenery to vomo, following our present line as ar as Malnate. where it branches to he 1. Near OJgiate are fine views to he 1., including Monte Generoso. •"rom Grandate is gained a remark- ble view over Como.] On leaving Varese the Rly. passes hrough the suburb of Biumo, which ontains several handsome villas of tie Milanese aristocracy, and descends y a mass of compact alluvial con- lomerate, crossing the Olona by a 3ng and lofty viaduct, to ' 18 m. Malnate Junct., on the edge of the escarpment which bounds the valley towards the E., thence to 19 m. Vedano. 1 m. S.S.W. is the village of Castiglione di Olona, inter- esting for its mediaeval remains, but chiefly for its *frescoes by Masolino da Panicale (1426-37); they were executed for Cardinal Branda Casti- glione, and represent incidents in the life of the Virgin and St. Stephen in the Church, and the history of St. John Bapt., in the small square-vaulted Baptistery. In one of the paintings is the portrait of the Cardinal, and the painter's name — Masolinus de Floren- tia, pinxit. The two principal sub- jects in the latter are Salome preferring her request to Herod, and Herodias receiving from her daughter the head of the Baptist. The Baptism of Christ, and the Evangelists, are finely painted. In the Church is the monument of the Cardinal, by Leonardo Grifo (1443). Urn. E. lies the Stat, of 20 m. Venegono Castiglione, the line runs S. to Hence 24 m. Tradate (2810), where are several villas, and S.E. to 32 m. Saronno Junct., where five railways meet. Important frescoes in the Collegiate Church (Rte. 21). For the remainder of the line, between Saronno and Milan, see Rte. 30. G 2 84 Boiite 36. — Como to Milan. ROUTE 3G. COMO TO MILAN, BY SARONNO. Miles stations. Routes Como . . 35 3 Camerlata 4 Grandate , . 35 8 Cadorago 10 Lomazzo 15 Saronno . 21,35 18 Caronno 23 BoUate 26 Bovisa 29 Milan . . . 37 COMO (705 ft.) was anciently a town of considerable importance. A Greek colony having been settled in this district by Pompeius Strabo and Cor- nelius Scipio, and subsequently by J. Csesar, Coiniim was made the chief seat of this colony, from which time it rose to prosperity under the name of Comum S'ovum. It appears from the letters of the younger Pliny, who was born at Comum, that his native city was, in his time, in a flourishing state, and in the enjoyment of all the privileges which belonged to a Roman municipium. There are traces of this Greek colony in the names of Nesso, Pigra, Lenno, Dorio, and other places on the lake. Como does not figure in history after the full of the Empire till the year 1107, about which time it became an independent city, and engaged in wars with Milan, which ended in its total destruction in 1127. It was rebuilt by Frederic Barbarossa in 1155, and 4 years after- wards was fortified. It remained a republic for two centuries, until it fell under the dominion of the Visconti. Since that time Como has followed the fortunes of Milan. Como (26,000) is now a place of considerable trade and industry, having manufactures of silks, woollens, cot- tons, yarns, and soap. It trades from its port on the lake chiefly with Switzerland. It exports rice, corn, and other agricultural produce for the mountain districts, and large quantities of raw silk in transit through Switzerland, for Germany and England, by the Spliigen and St. Gotthard. Since 1850, Como has stolen from the lake its old shallow harbour, turned it into an open Piazza, and thrown out commodious piers to form a new port, in which several steamers can lie at one time. A handsome ! street lined with colonnades leads from this to the Duorao and Broletto, ! and other objects of interest. j The ♦Cathedral is a fine building, the beauty of the architecture being heightened by the richness and so- lidity of the marble used in its con- struction. A long series of archi- tects, of whom Lorenzo de' Spazi was the first, from 1396 to the last cent., have been engaged upon it, and hence much variety in the style of its dif- ferent parts. The W. front was begun by Luccliinoda Mllano, in 1460, and completed between 1487 and 1526, by Tommaso Bodari, of Maroggia. This architect was also an excellent sculptor. Many of the statues were executed by him. The front is Gothic, with the exception of " the three entrance-doors, which are round- headed and of the richest Lombard style : it is divided by slips, or pilas- ters, with statues all the way up, en- closing a magnificent wheel-window, and studded with rich tribunes and canopies ; elegant trefoil corbels cir- culate round the cornice and pinna- cles, the centre of which chiefly presents a circular temple of small columns on brackets, rising from a tall pedestal and supporting a diadem of lesser pinnacles, and is unique.'' — Hope. The lower portions are covered with curious emblems, some maso7uc, some religious, interspersed with texts and inscriptions in beautiful Gothic letters. Many of these reliefs are types : e.g. a fountain, a vine, a lily, a church upon a hill. Amongst the larger reliefs, the Adoration of the Magi in the arch of the ^or should be noticed ; but the most re- markable ornaments of this front are the statues of the two Plinys, flanking the doorway, erected by the Comaschi Moute 36. — Como : Cathedral. 85 in the 16th cent, to their "fellow- citizens." They are placed under ornamental Kenaissance canopies by Kodario. The younger Pliny, who was born here, was much attached to Como, and he resigned a considerable legacy in its favour, founded a school, built a temple, and fully deserves commemoration as a benefactor. The other sides of the exterior are between them surmounted by elegant pinnacles. The cupola, built about 1 732 by Juvara, is in the compli- cated and overloaded style of the French architecture of the time. The nave and aisles are Italian Gothic, with finely-groined vaults; the transepts and choir are Renais- sance. Two animals, intended for lions, support the basins for holy COMO ' l.Cathedral 2. S. Fedele " S.Aiinunziata i.S.Abbondio 5. Broletto 6. Post Office 7. Hotel Suisse Hotel Italie Hotel Volta \ lO.Theatre ll.Palazzo Giouio in the style of the Renaissance. The lateral doorways, particularly that on the *N. side, with angels and fanciful columns, are elegant. Both were exe- cuted by Rodari in 1509. The ara- besques are interspersed with birds, animals, serpents, and childi'en. The windows are splendidly ornamented with arabesques and portraits, in re- lief, of illustrious men, in the best cinquecento style, and the buttresses WalJier ijr Boittallsc. water. These, without doubt, are re- mains of the porch of the original cathedral, and supported its columns. The choir is circular, with five win- dows in two tiers, each separated by Corinthian pilasters ; around are placed statues of the patron saints of Como. Objects of interest on the S. side : — Six figures in two rows, with a pre- della of Six Saints, by Tommaso 86 lloiite 30. — Coma : Ch arches . Jloilari (1482). — Statue of Card. Tolomeo Gallio (18(J1). — Six Passion reliefs in white marble (I4th cent.), flanked by paintings of SS. Christo- pher and Sebastian, copied from Lnini. Fine Kenaissance doorMay (see above). — Recumbent effigy of lip. liodigadinus (1350). — *Flight into Egypt, by Gaudenzio Ferrari. — *Altar of S. Abbondio, third Bishop of Como, in gilt and coloured wood ; his statue in the centre ; his miracles in compart- ments around. — *Adoration of the Magi, by Luini, with a giraffe, and other animals. — * Virgin and Child, with four Saints, by lAiini. N. Side. — White marble relief of the Virgin and Child with two Saints, by Eodari, between two modern busts of Bp. Rovelli and Innocent XI. — Beautifully sculptured doorway. — Sarcophagus of Benedetto Giovio ( 1 544), the historian of Como, brother of the more celebrated Paolo Giovio. He was one of the first exact archae- ologists who appeared during the re- vival of letters. — *Marriage of the Virgin, by Gaud. Ferrari. — A modern altar-piece, by Marcliesi — St. Joseph and our Lord as a Child ; one of his best works. — *Nativity, by Luini. — Entombment, School of Eodari; be- tween busts of Pius IX. and Zanino Cigalino (1562). In the N. Sacristy, a Holy Family (glazed); School of Luini.— Qiood Statues in the transepts of SS. Se- bastian, Agnes, and others (1525). Apostles iu the Choir, by Pompeo Marchesi. There are two organs : one built in 159(i, the other in 1650, by Father Hermann, a German Jesuit. The circular Baptistery, on the 1. of the entrance, is attributed to Bra- mante ; it has eight Corinthian columns of Breccia marble, with the font iu the centre, on which are reliefs of tlie life of the Baptist. The Bishop of Como has an ex- tensive diocese, extending over a portion of Italian Switzerland. The Duomo was wholly built by voluntary contributions, the Comaschi taking great pride in this chief ornament of their town and diocese ; and the man- I ner in which the edifice was begun by tlie people is recorded in the inscrip- tions upon it. By the side of the Duomo stands the Broletto, or Town-hall (1215), built in alternate courses of black and white marble, with a few red patches. It is interesting as a memorial of the ancient days of the independence of the Italian republics, when such a building ex- isted in every Lombard city. The lower storey is a Loggia upon pointed arches. Above is a floor with large windows, where the chiefs of the muni- cipality assembled; and from the middle window projects the Bingliiera, from which they harangued the crowd of citizens convened m jyarliament below ; for, in the constitutional language of ancient Italy, the jjai-lamento was the primary assembly of the democracy, from whence the powers of govern- ment originated, and to which the ultimate appeal Avas to be made. The *Church of San Fedele, formerly the Cathedral, is considered to be of the era of the Lombard kings, and the back part of the exterior is nearly unaltered. It has a polygonal apse with external gallery, and a straight-sided doorway at the N.E. corner, curiously carved with a conflict between a dragon and a serpent. The interior has been modernised, and contains nothing but a few old columns, and two Holy Water basins supported by monsters. There is a 15th-cent. fresco of the Virgin, SS. Roch and Sebastian in the 1st chapel, rt. S. Abbondio. This fine Church, originally named after S. Carpoforo, first Bishop of Como, has a round apse and square tower. It Avas dedicated, after the death of St. Abondius, third Bishop, in 461.>, to that holy prelate, buried within its precincts, and was the cathedral of the old city. " It pre- sents single round-headed windows, with small pillars and arches, again enclosed in broad flat borders of the richest arabesque and basket-Avore. Though small, it has double aisles, and the pillars of the outermost range are smaller and the arches lower than of Monte 3 6 . — Como — Camevlata. 87 the innermost." — Hope. " It is a small but graceful creation of the 11th cent. Few -who have ever seen it will for- get the singular and picturesque effect of the exterior, by the contrast between the slender columns of the aisles and the massive pillars of the nave, or the exquisite arabesque work lavished on arch and buttress \y'\i\io\xty— Saturday Revieio. The pillars of the nave are in small courses of stone ; those of the aisles in granite. In the apse are frescoes. The Church contains the tombs of several bishops of Como, and now serves as the Chapel of the Eccle- siastical Seminary. The handsome Theatre (1813-1849) stands behind the Duomo upon the site of the old castle. The Liceo Plinio, built in 1811, has a front adorned with busts of the great men whom' Como has produced. It contains reading-rooms, a bust of the singer Madame Pasta, a collection of natural history, a laboratory, and a Library. The Piazza Volta is so called from the statue of that inventor by Mar- chesi, which stands in the centre of it, opposite the house in which he lived (17-45-1819). Volta was intended for the law ; but his first work, pub- lished in 1769, and which treated upon electricity, sufiiciently announced the direction which his mind had perma- nently received. Palazzo Giovio, still belonging to that family, contains a number of Roman inscriptions and other anti- quities — a collection begun by Paolo Giovio. Later times have added seve- ral interesting relics from suppressed churches and convents. The library contains several of the unedited works and papers of Paolo Giovio and of Benedetto the histoi'ian. The Gates of the city are good spe- cimens of the military architecture of the middle ages, and add much to its picturesque appearance. Beside them stand the massive towers of Vittoria, S. Vitale, and S. Pietro. The country abounds with pleasant walks and liand- some villas. The Raimondi or Odescal- chi, Visconti, and Rezzonico are amongst the most splendid ; and farther on, the Villa d'Este. Near it is the Gallia, supposed to be upon the site of one of Pliny's villas. The inhabitants of Como and its vicinity have been celebrated as workers in stone ever since the days of the Lombards. In the laws of Rothar, one of the earliest of the Lombard kings, mention is made of the " Magistri Comacini," who tra- velled the country as masons, which they continue to do at the present day. A drive thi'ough the district of iya I Brianza (Rte. 37) makes a very inter- j esting and pleasant excursion from I Como, about 8 hrs. there and back. 2-horse carriage, 25 fr., with 3 fr. to the driver. The cross-country roads are excellent, and after Montorfano, reached in 1 hr., the country opens. Orsenigo is passed on the 1., and Alzati, reached in less than ^ hr., with Villa Turati, called 11 Soldo. In front rise Monte Grigna, Monte Campione, the j Como di Canzo and llesegone di Lecco. j 10 min, further is Anzano ; thence through Lurago to Inverigo is 1 ^ hr., where there is a good Inn. Back by Anzano (fine view of Monte Rosa), Villa Adelaide, or Tassera, having fine gardens and commanding views over Lakes Alserio and Pusiano. Then N. by Paravicino to Erbaj , whence Como, 8 m. W., is reached by another road. A good carriage-road, overlooking the lake, leads to (5 m.) Torno, from which the Villa Pliniana (Rte. 43) may be reached by footpath or rowing- boat in 5 hr. From the Porta Vittoria a road strikes E. to (1 hr.) Brunate (2405 ft.), commanding an extensive view. 1 hr. W. of Como is San Fermo, where Garibaldi beat the Austrians on May 27, 1859. Fine view, and plea- sant descent to Chiasso. The Nord Milano RIy. Stat, is close to the lake. The train skirts the town, and ascends to 3 m. Camerlata, above which, on the E. shore, upon a sandstone rock, stands the lofty tower of Baradello. This building, whose castellated walls run down the abrupt sides of the 88 Itoute 37. — Milan to Erha. steep, is probably of the uge of Bai- barossa. It is interesting as tlie monument that M'itnessed the fall of the first of the dynasties which suc- cessively tyrannised over Milan. This city, one of the first which asserted its independence, was the first amongst the Italian republics to lose it. Her free- dom dates from the peace of Constance in 1183; her thraldom from 1246, ■when Parjano della Torre, the chief of that once powerful family, was inau- gurated as the protector of the re- public. In the hands of the Torriani the power continued until the accession of Napoleone della Torre, who, created Anziano Perpetuo by the people, and Vicar of the Empire by Kodolph of Hapsburg, governed with absolute authority. The nobles whom he had exiled, guided by Ottone Viscouti, were in possession of the city of Como; and on the 21st of Jan, 1277, Napoleone and his troops fell into the power of their enemy. The victors spared the lives of Napoleone and of all the members of his family whom they captured ; but the prisoners were put into separate iron cages in the Baradello. What ultimately became of the others is not known ; but Napo- leone, after lingering several years, devoured by vermin, and suffering the most extreme misery, probably mad- dened by it, ended his captivity by dashing his head against the bars of his prison. Upon the fall of the Tor- riani arose the power of the Visconti. Under the hill near the Castle is a Church with a round apse of five lancets and a square tower. 4 m. Grandate. Here the Rly. turns S. from the Varese line (Rte. 35), and follows the high road to 8 m. Cadorago, where it crosses the Lura torrent, and descends its rt. bank to 10 m, Lomazzo. The line Novara to Seregno is crossed at from 18 m. Caronno, in the Church of which are some frescoes by Aurelio Luini, and 23 m. BoUate, it joins the Erba line (Kte. 37) at 26 m. Bovisa, and reaches the Sta- zione Nonl (Plan B. 5) ia the Piazza Castello at 29 m. Milan (Rte. 51). ROUTE 37. AN TO ERBA, BY SEVESO AXD THE BraAXZA. Miles. StatioLS. Routes. Milan . . . . 36 3 Bovisa 6 Cormanno 10 Varedo 14 Seveso S. Pietro 2 Camnago . 32 15 Meda 19 Carugo Giussano 21 Inverigo 23 lambrugo 26 Merone 28 Incino Erba 15 m. Saronno Junct. (lite. 21), be- yond which the Rly. turns S.E., and re crosses the Lura. Passing This Rly. quits Milan by the Piazza Castello (B. 5), and at 3 m. Bovisa Junct. turns rt. from the line to Saronno (Rte. 36). [10 min. from the Stat, is the Pa- lazzo Simonetta, with a front of three colonnades, one over another. The garden-front presents a very intricate arrangement of angles, and from a window on the 2nd floor, on the 1., is a remarkable echo which repeats a clear sharp sound thirty times. The view N. to the mountains is very fine. A mile distant is the Certosa of Garigiu(no,fonnded.'m 1349 by Archbp. Oddone Visconti, Lord of Milan. The Church contains frescoes by Crespi of the life of St. Bruno, n^ch injured by damp.] Beyond 6 m. Cormanno the Rly. crosses the Seveso, which bounds the fertile dis- Bouie 38. — Lecco to Como. 89 trict of the Brianza on the W. Soon after passing 10 m. Varedo the rivei' is crossed again, and the train reaches 14 m. Seveso S. Pietro Junct., whence a branch line runs N. to Camnago, on the main line between Como and Milan (Rte. 32), which our Rly. crosses before arriving at 15 m. Meda, with the ruins of an extensive monastery. The country becomes more broken and undulating as we approach 19 m. Carugo Giussano, and numer- ous villas are seen on the vine-clad slopes. 21 m. Inverigo, a pretty village on the Lambro. A cypress avenue leads to the Church opposite the Villa Cre- velU, thence a path to the top of the hill crowned by a colossal statue of Hercules. A path conducts from it to the *Rotonda Cagnola, the most beautiful villa in the district, with a Grecian portico, and a lovely pan- orama, from the cupola, of the country as far as the Alps. It was built in 1813. Beyond 20 m. Merone, where the line is crossed from Como to Lecco (Rte. 38), the Rly. passes two little lakes — on the 1. the Lago cVAlserio, on the rt. the Lago cli Pusiano. A gradual descent brings us to 28 m. Elba (1020 ft.), one of the largest towns of the district, which gives its name to the Pian cVErha, renowned as the most fertile in the hilly region of Lombardy. There are several handsome villas here, especi- ally the Villa Amalia {{ N.W.), celebrated by Parini, from the grounds of which the view over the Brianza is incomparable. Interesting excursions, especially to the geologist, may be made to the (3 m.) Buco del Piomho, a cavern excavated in oolitic limestone ;^and to the Pian di S. Primo, celebrated for its huge erratic blocks (Rte, 43). Incino, 1 m. E., with a tall Lombard camixinile, occupies the site of the Roman Forum Licinii. [Carriage-road N. to (15 m.) Bellagio, traversing the * Val Assina. Omn. as far as (5 m.) Canzo. The road ascends the beautiful val- ley of the Lambro, a country furnish- ing the best silk, and abounding in silk mills. Traversing a succession of clean and thriving towns and villages, Mariago is reached close to the little Lago Segrino, abounding in fish. Canzo and Asso, from which the valley takes its name, are flourishing little towns with numerous silk-works. Between Canzo and (1 m.) Asso there is a good waterfall. In the centre of the Val Assina runs the Lambro. E. of Canzo rise the Horns (Corni di Canzo). N.W. is Monte S. Primo (as- cent in 4 hrs.), see Rte. 43. Beyond Asso, passing through the villages of Lasnigo and Barni, we reach (10 m.) Magreglio : at a high level, near it, are the sources of the Lambro. 10 m. in further stands the small chapel of the Madonna di Ghifola, where the Lake of Lecco, and the Alps of the Valtelline and Orisons, burst on the view. During the zigzag descent by Civenna to Bellagio, shaded by chest- nut, walnut, and cherry trees, there are beautiful views on either hand over the Lakes of Como and Lecco.] ROUTE 38. LECCO TO COMO, BY MERONE. Miles. Stations. Routes. Lecco .... 51 2 Valmadrera 4 Civate 5 Sala al Barro 8 Oggiono 13 Merone Ponte Nuovo 15 AnzauG 19 Cantu 23 Albate Camerlata 27 Como 32 On leaving Lecco (Rte. 42) the Rly. crosses the Adda, and passes Malgrate, uo Boute d^J.—Bellh to Li with numerous silk-mills, on the VV. bank of the lake. To the rt. lies Valmadrera, in the Church of which are some pillars 47 ft. high, and 3 ft. 8 in. in diameter, cut from an erratic block found upon Monte Val- madrera, lOGo ft. above the lake. 4 m. Civate. The Church of S. rietro, founded in the 8th cent., has some curious stucco reliefs of a later period. Here the line sweeps boldly to the S., passing Sala, whence 3Ionte Baro (3150 ft.) may be ascended in 2 hrs. *Fiue view. The Ely. then skirts the E. shore of the little Lago d'Antwne, at the S. end of which lies 8 m. Oggiono. The Rly. soon after- wards turns W., and runs S. of the Layo dl Pusiano, crossing the Lambro, to 13 m. Merone Ponte Nuovo, where it intersects the Nord Milano line from Milan to Erba (Rte. 37). 19 m. Cantu, which lies to the 1., has also a Stat, on the direct line from Como to Milan (Rte. 32), which our Rly. joins at 23 m. Albate Camerlata. Thence to 27 m. Como (Rte. 36). ROUTE 39. liELLINZUNA TO LUINO. Miles. stations. Bellinzoua 2 Giubiasco 6 Cadenazzo 11 Magadino 17 Pino 21 Maccagno 25 Luino KoulCri. . 32 14,40 2 m. Giubiasco the iSt. Gotthard Rly. turns oft" to the 1., and at (5 m. Cadenazzo a branch line strikes off rt. to (8 m.) Locarno (Rte. 47), crossing the Ticino, and afterwards, beyond Gordola, the Verzasca. Our Rly. reaches the Lake at II m. Magadino (Rte. 47), and from this point skirts the E. shore to 25 m. Luino (Rte. 47). ROUTE 40. LUINO TO MENAGGIO, BY LUGANO.- RAIL AND STEAMEK. Miles. Stations. Luino ) Ponte Tresaj Ponte Tresal Porlezza j Porlezza "j Piano I Grandola I Menaggioj Routes. Rail 14, 39 Steamer Rail On leaving Bellinzoua the Rly. fol- lows the 1. bank of the Ticino. At The greater part of this Rte. lies through Swiss territory (see Hand- hook for Switzerland). Luino (2800), an international Stat, near the Swiss and Italian frontier, on the E. shore of the Lago Maggiore, was the birthplace, about 1460, of the painter Bernardino, named after it Luinl. There are some frescoes of his in the principal Church. From the landing - place of the Steamers a narrow-gauge Rly. runs E., crossing the Bellinzoua and Novara line (Rte. 14), and ascends the valley of the Tresa to 2 m. Creva, a busy manufacturing village. Thence, crossing the river and passing through two tunnels, to 4 m. Cremenaga, the line turns S.E. to beyond which 8 m. Ponte Tresa, a village of 365 Route 40. — Lugano. 91 inhab., prettily situated on a bay of the Lago Lugano, so completely land- locked as to seem a distinct lake. Another of the winding reaches of the lake stretches N., about half a mile on the E. of our road, as far as Agno, a village of GOO inhab., at the mouth of the Agno. One of the prettiest scenes is that presented by the village and small lake of Muzzano, which lies 1. of the road beyond Agno. Steamer from Ponte Tresa S.E. through the narrow Straits of Lavena, and then due S. to Q hr.) Porto Ceresio, whence a dil. runs S.E. to (8 m.) Varese (Rte. 35). ^ The Steamer then steers N., touching at Morcote and Melide, between which on the rt. rises Monte S. Giorgio (3590 ft.), separating the two Southern arms of the lake. At Melide we pass under the causeway which carries the St. Gotthard railroad. On the 1. opposite Campione, rises Monte Salvatore (see below). In 1| hr. from Ponte Tresa (Exp. 1 hr.) we reach LUGANO (930 ft.), the largest and most thriving town of the canton Tessin (It. Ticino) with 7200 inhab., charmingly situated on the margin of the lake. It is a regular Italian town, with arcaded streets stretching up the steep hill-side to the Ely. Stat., which is reached by funicular tramway. The hills and mountains abound in all the productions of the luxuriant vegetation of Italy ; and numerous villas are scattered along their slopes, embowered among vineyards and gardens, but, in penetrating its E. bay to Porlezza, the mountains assume a wild and precipitous outline, and the darker tints of the rock and oak copse furnish the predominating colour. The Church of San Lorenzo, on an eminence near the Ely. Stat., com- mands a fine view. The fabric is ancient, and traces of the original building are to be seen. The Eenais- sance front, richly adorned with sculpture, is attributed to Tommaso Rodari. Close to the H. du Pare is the Church of S. M. degli Angeli, founded in 1499, containing remarkable paintings in fresco by ^Bernardino Luini ; par- ticularly a Crucifixion of large size covering the wall which divides the choir from the nave. It is one of the finest works of the Lombard school. Below are striking figures of S. Sebas- tian and S. Eoch, and above, on a smaller scale, are various Passion Scenes. The Virgin and Children, in fresco, in a Chapel on the rt., is a work of great beauty and refinement. On the 1. wall is the Last Supper, in three compartments. These paintings were almost the last works of Luini, who died in 1530. The Palazzo Civico, opposite the steamboat pier, has a fine court with arcades. The Giardino Galrini, on the mar- gin of the lake, contains an over- praised .statue of a mourning woman, La Desolazioue, by Vincenzo Vela, who modelled the Statue of William Tell on the Fountain befox-e the H. du Pare. The Belvedere of the Villa Enderlin, on the summit of the hill, commands a beautiful view. 1 m. S. is the pleasant suburb of Paradiso, and 1 m. farther the Capo San Mariino. Pleasant drive (8 m. N. W.) to Breno (2105 ft.) in the Val Magliasina. Ely. N. to Bellinzona and St. Gotthard; S. to Como and Milan (Ete. 32). Boats on the lake, with one boat- man, 2 fr. for the first, and 150 fr. for each subsequent hour : with two, 3 fr. and 2 fr. respectively. There are considerable factories for throwing silk grown in canton Tessin ; and Lugano further derives activity and prosperity from being the entre- pot of goods shipped across the lake from Italy, to be transported over the Alps, and vice versa. A large fair is held hereon the 9th of October. Monte Caprino, the mountain oppo- site Lugano, is penetrated by grot- toes, which have been converted into cellars, called Cantine. Numerous 92 Boute 40. — Lugano : Excursions, suuiU houses for the sale of the wine are built over them, which at a dis- tance have the appearance of a village. EXCURSIONS. 1. Monte Salvatore (3051 ft.) may be ascended in 2 hrs. on foot, or in h hr. by the Funicular Ely. ; Stat, at the raraduo, 1 m. S, of the town. The IJly. is 1 m. 50 yds. long, and rises 1900 ft. Horse or mule, G fr. and huonamano. The road follows that to Como for where a paved path diverges rt., passing the Villa Marchino on the ascent to the village of Pazzallo. Here the path turns 1. under an archway, and 1. again in 2 or 3 min. It is steep and stony, but not otherwise difficult. The sweet- scented purple cyclamen covers the hill-side in the spring ; in the autumn the Dapli ae Caeovum. Wooded nearly to the top, this mountain forms a pro- montory. The view extends over every arm of the Lake of Lugano, affording a glimpse of Lago Maggiore, and is bounded by the snowy Alps. The distant prospect is limited in many directions by intervening moun- tains ; but the view of the Monte Kosa chain, and the glimpses of more distant snowy peaks, heighten the effect of the beautiful scenery at hand. On the summit is a pilgrimage chapel. For the geology, see Rte. 32. " Splendid fertility, rich woods, and dazzling waters, seclusion and confinement of view contrasted with sea-like extent of plain, fading into the sky — and this again, in an oppo- site quarter, with an horizon of the loftiest and boldest Alps — unite in composing a prospect more diversi- fied by magnificence, beauty, and sublimity than perhaps any other point in Europe, of so inconsiderable an elevation, commands." — Words- worth. 2. A drive round Monte Salvatore (2-horse carriage, 11 fr.), takes about 3 hrs. The road passes by Pamhio, where, in front of the Church is a statue by Vela in memory of a young rifle -volunteer, Francesco Carloni, who fell at Somma Cam- pagna, July 24, 1848. On the hill to the rt. is the village of Gentilino and monastery of S. Abbondio. The road then leads down a rich valley to the Agno arm of the lake at Figino, and skirts the shore to Morcote at the point of the promontory. The Church and appendant buildings form a strik- ing group high above the town, and are reached by 300 steps, with a statue to their builder, a local benefactor, in a niche at the bottom. The Church has Lombardic remains and a stately cam- panile, and the view from it of the windings of the lake is of uncommon beauty. Six houses of Morcote sank into the lake Sept. 10, 1862. Thence N.N.E. to Melide, which is 4 m. S. of Lugano. 3. Another charming drive is under the N. and W. slopes of S. Salvatore by Carahhi'a and Ciona to (4 m.) Carona. The views are of singular richness and beauty, especially when the Monte Rosa range is visible, f hr. S.W. of Carona, through park-like scenery and chestnut woods, is the Church of Madonna delV Ongaro, com- manding a glorious view. | hr. fur- ther is Torello, a suppressed monastery with Romanesque church. Figino and the high-road lie on the lake,^ hr. \V. Thence to (6 m.) Lugano. 4. Monte Bre and Monte Boglia. 1 m. E. of Lugano, on the shore, is Castagnola, with conspicuous white tower, and above it Monte Bre (3050 ft.), easily ascended from that point in '2 hrs. The pathway passes the vil- lage of Bre. The descent can be made N. by Pazzolino; or the excur- sion can be prolonged to (2 hrs.) Monte Boglia (5000 ft.). A path leads thence to Oria, on the lake, where the steamer may be taken. 5. By boat to Gandria, a little beyond Castagnola, walking back ii an hour by the cliff-path. The cac- tus, Aloe {Agave Americana), Sweet- scented Bay, and other plants of £ warm climate, give the vegetati^ z thoroughly southern character, "^ht Pteris Cretica is found growing ir the crevices of the rocks. 6. Beyond Gandria is Oria (se< Moute 41. — Coire to Colico. 93 above). Thence walk, or take a boat to (^ hr.) >S'. Mamette, and walk up the ravine to (| hr.) Drano, where there is a fine waterfall, and to (| hr.) Puria ; descend and cross the ravine to Q hr.) Castello, perched on a summit, and return to (J hr.) Oria. From Castello, Monte Boglia may be ascended in 3 hrs. 7. On the S. shore of the lake is Osteno, 50 min. by steamer from Lugano. Here a singular ravine or Orrido (the local word for a gorge), accessible only by boat, well deserves a visit. Through the ravine is reached the *Grotto (ticket 75 c, to be had on board the steamer). 20 min. E. (by boat) are the Tufa Caverns of Bescia. Argegno, on the Lake of Como, may be reached in 5 hrs. by S. Fedele and Castiglione, through the Val d'Intelvi, a summer resort. 6 m. S.W. of Osteno is the village of Lanzo d'Intelvi (3115 ft.), and 1 hr. higher up, the *IIotel Belvedere. 8. Carriage-road N. up the valley of the Cassarate to (9 m.) Sala ; thence on foot in 20 min. to the interesting Capuchin convent of Bigorio(2300 ft.), which commands fine views. Keturn on foot along the heights by the chapel of S. Bernardo (2300 ft.), and the villages of Comano and Porza; or by carriage above the Lahe of Origlio, and through Cureglia, Vezia, and JSIasmgno ; or by train from Taverne Stat., 1 hr. W. of Bigorio (Rte. 32). Carriage-road N. through the Val Colla to (12 m.) Scareglia (3205 ff.), at the foot of Monte Camoghe (7300 ft.), which may be ascended in 4| hrs. Descent N. in 5 hrs. to Belliuzona. Steamer in 1| hr. to Porlezza, which is within the Italian frontier. Train thence in 1 hr. to Menaggio on the Lake of Como. Carriages may also be obtained at Porlezza for 10 or 12 fr. The road (6 m.) is good but steep, especially on the Como side. At Porlezza is the Custom House Stat. The entire distance is well worth walking, the descent by the old mule- path upon Menaggio being particularly fine. The train at first intersects a broad valley, and then ascends, passing on the rt. the Lago di Piano, to Grandola (1260 ft.), on the highest point of the line. Thence a bold descent in curves, the line being ad- mirably engineered, affording fine views over the Lake, to 6 m. Menaggio (700 ft.), see Rte. 43. EOUTE 41. COIEE TO COLICO ON THE LAKE OF COMO, BY THE SPLUGEN AND CHIA- VENNA.— COACH AND EAIL. Miles. Stations. Chiavenna 6 Samolaco 9 Novate Mezzola 17 Colico . . . Routes. 42 2-horse carriage to Thusis, 30 fr. ; to Splligen, 65 ; to Chiavenna, 135. Dil. twice daily in summer from Coire to (13 hrs.) Chiavenna, reach- ing Splugen in 8 hrs. Carriage in 7 hrs. from Coire to Splugen, about 4^ hrs. from Splugen to Coire. Through tickets are issued to Milan and other towns in N. Italy. Coire (1935 ft.) and the road as far as (34 m.) Splugen (4760 ft.) are de- scribed in the Handbook for Switzer- land. This village (It. Spluga, Rom. Spe- leuga), chief place of the Rheinwald. is situated at the point of departure of the two Alpine passes of the Splugen and Bernardino. It suffered severely from the flood of 1834, which swept away more than a dozen houses. The covered bridge over the Rhine has since been replaced by an iron girder bridge. Splugen anciently belonged to the lords of Sax, on the S. slope of the Bernardino, but it afterwards joined the Grey League. Above the village, in the bed of the stream from the Lochliberg, is an ancient hermitage, and in the church- yard are curious monuments to the ;U Honte 41. — The Pass of the Spli'Kjen. Georgii. The prominent mountains are the GwjgeniiiU (9-i7u ft.) and Einshom (9tJ49 ft.), 1- of the valley, and over Spliigen the Dolomite KalL- herff (970.") ft.). Behind the Gng- gerniill is the Tamlohorn (10,74S ft.), invisible from the village. 5 hr. E. of the Church is a ruined Castle ; pleasant valk thence through forest to Sufers (4675 ft.), at the foot of the Kalkberg, by the old Spliigen mule-path, supposed to have been a Roman road. [ExcL-RSioxs. — a. To the Three Lakes, full of trout, under the Suret- tahorner. Turn up 1. just beyond the Ehiue bridge. 2 hrs. up S.E.. glorious view. h. Ascent of the GuggerniiU, with %iew of the Tambohorn. c. As- cent of the Tamhoharn, 4i hrs. up. The rocks at the top are steep and require care. Guide 14 fr. d. As- cent of the Sitrettahorn (9971 ft.), e. The valley behind Spliigen leads to the Lodiliherg Pass in 2^ hrs. Half- way, fine view of the Surettahurner. /. Source of the Hinter-Bhein, 5 hrs. ; 2 along the post-road, 2 on horseback, and 1 on foot. Lochliherg Pass, down the Savien Thai to Co'we ; Valserberg Pass, down St. Peters TJial to Ilanz.] The *Pass of the Spliigen is very ancient, having been known to the Romans; but until modern improve- ments it was one of the most difficult and dangerous of the frequented passes. The road was constructed by the Austrian Government in 1819- 1823, to compete with the newer Swiss road over the Bernardino. The en- gineer was Cav. Donegani. The Spliigen road crosses the Rhine, and ascending some zigzags enters through a short tunnel (2.") min.) the valley of the Oberhausen-bach, a small torrent which joins the Rhine at Spliigen. This it follows by a gentle ascent, and an entirely new line, the old one having been demolished by the tempest of lSo4, when road and bridges were carried away, aud piles of broken rocks spread over the val- lev. In 50 min. from the tunnel we reach the main series of zigzags lead- ing up the final steep. A Refuge stands near the top, aud at one point the peak of the Tamhohorn is seen rt. 2.5 min. above the zigzags is a covered Gallery, 93 yds. long, and beyond it ( 10 min.) the 41 m. Stimmit of the Pass (6945 ft.), between the Tamhohorn and Siiretta- horn. Along this narrow ridge runs the boundary line of Switzerland and Italy. Immediately after surmount- ing it the road begins to descend, passing the first cantoniera, or house of refuge ; lower down, a series of tourniquets leads to the 42 m. Italian Custom- house— a melancholy group of buildings in a desolate and barren spot, where lug- gage is Searched. N.E. rises the Surettahorn. Further on, at a point where the road crosses the stream, the old bridle-path descended on the rt. direct to Isola, through the defile of the Cardinello, a very perilous valley, from its constant exposure to aval- anches. The French array of Marshal Mac- donald, who crossed the Spliigen be- tween the 27th Xov. and 4th Dec, 1800, long before the new road was begun, in the face of snow and storm, lost nearly 100 men, ai^d as many horses, chiefly in the passage of the Cardinello. His columns were liter- ally cut through by the falling aval- anches, and man and beast swept away to destruction. The carriage - road avoids this gorge altogether, proceed- ing at a high level along the mountain- side. From the Cantoniera della Stuetta (35 min.) there is a grand view to the rt. — the finest on the pass — of the great glacier of Citrciiisa, and the peaks"P/-zo Terre ( 10, 1 65 ft.), Cima df Bahusio, and others. Three Gal- leries are now passed — of 24."i, 220, and 565 yds. respectively — the longest on any Alpine road. They are con- structed of the most solid masonrv^ arched, with roofs sloping outwards, to turn aside the avalanches of snow, supported on pillars, and lighted by low windows like the embrasures of a Boiite 41. — Planazzo -Cami)o Dolrino — Chiaven na. or) battery. From the entrance of the second gallery there is a most striking view clown upon tlie roofs of Tsola, anel the long line of zigzags, which led to that village, abandoned since 1838. At 48 m. Pianazzo (47.50 ft.) this old road is left for the new one, which is shorter by 3 m., and was rendered necessary by the injury done by tlu- storm of 1834, and also by the danger to which the route between Isola and the cascade of the Madesimo was ex- posed from avalanches, which fall regularly into the glen of the I^iro, below Pianazzo. The road now crosses the little stream of the Madesimo, within a few j yards of the verge of the precipice, over which it throws itself in a beau- tiful *VVaterfa!l ((;r,() ft.). The view, looking down from a little terrace, is very tine. [From near the bridge, a track ascends the stream to the Passo (li Madesimo, leading N.N.K. iu 4 hrs. toCaniciil in the Averser Thai.] 30 min. from the Cascade, reached by a good road, is a Hydropathic Estab- lishment and Pension, much frequented in the summer. The road now passes through a tunnel of 120 yds., and then descends by numerous zigzags down the face of the precipitous mountain- side — a most extraordinary piece of engineering. .')1 m. Campo Dolcino (34 5. 5 ft.), in spite of its sweet-sounding Italian name, is but a poor village, on a small grassy plain at the junction of the Il(djJ)ios((. toirent with the Lira. The road now threads the gorge of San Giacomo ; an inscription com- memorates its completion by Carlo Donegani, in the reign of the I'^m- peror Francis II. The vale of the Liro is strewn with fallen rocks, com- posed of a species of white gneiss, exceedingly brittle, which, after ex- posure to the weather, assumes a red colour. It nnist liave i)een a difficult task to carry a road through such a wilderness ; and it is accordingly in many places narrow, the turnings sharp, and the terraces too short. The desolation of the scene is relieved by forests of chestnut-trees. The tall white campanile of the Madonna di ly situated (10!»0 ft.) below steep wooded mountains of singular beauty, at the junction of the valley of S. Giaoomo with that of the Mrra, which Hows from Val Hregaglia. It is celebrated for its hrtr, the best in N. Italy, and maintains several spin- ning mills for silk and cotton. An ingenious manufacturer named Van- ossi at one time wove here a fire-proof cloth of asbestos,— a mineral which abounds in the neighbouring moun- tains. Opposite the Conradi inn, at the foot of a curiously coloured rock, is a large ruined I'tdazzo begun by the Grisons family of I)e Salis, but never completed : fine ric.m from the Para- diso (50 c). The Church ofS. Lorenzo has a tall campanile standing within a Sffuare enclosure, surrounded by a cloister. On one side are two bone- liouses, filled with skulls arranged in pattern.s, and, adjoining them, in the octagonal Bajdisler;/, an ancient stone font, with rude ix'liefs. The citizens keep their Valteline wine in grottoes, which form excellent cool cellars, and are called Ventorali. Chiavenna belonged to the Dukes of Milan down to the iGth century, when the Swiss became possessed of it, and it formed, with the Valteline and Ijormio, a state subject to the Grisons. Napoleon added it to Italy, as lying on the S. side of the Alps ; and the Congress of Vienna, by the same rule, transferred it to Austria. Near (lordona, 3 m. S.W. of Chia- venna, is a waterfall worth notice. Cross the river to the rt. at rrata, ^ hr. from the town on the Colico road ; thence i hr. to the Fall. - 96 Route 42. — Milan to Innsbruck. The road up the beautiful Vul Bregaglia, and over tlie pass of the Maloja, into the Engadine, is described iu the Ilandhool: for Switzerland. Visitors should drive a short way to get an idea of the valley, which, ■with its dark purple rocks and chestnut woods, is finer than that on the Spliigen. About 3 m. up the Valley, near riuro, memorable for the fate of its inhabitants, who were buried by the fall of a mountain, is a peculiar manufacture of a coarse ware for culi- nary purposes, made out of potstone {Lapis ollaris). This stone is easily cut, or turued in a lathe, and endures heat. Pliny calls it Lapis Comensis, from its being exported from the Lake of Como. 1 hr. further is the Swiss boundary at Castasegna, and f hr. beyond is Promontogno, in a splendid situation. A good road ascends in zigzags on the N. side of the valley from Promontogno to (1 hr.) Soglio (3569 ft.), sheltered from the N. and E., and surrounded by beautiful wooded scenery. Ely. onward. The broad and marshy valley of the Mera is crossed to 6 m. Samolaco, which lies under the hills on the rt. bank. Thence S.S.E. to 9 m. Novate, near the N. extremity of the Lago di Mezzola, a most pic- turesque little lake, so walled iu by mountains, that down to a recent time there was no road by the side of it, and travellers were carried across it in barges. This lake has been gradu- ally separated from that of Como by annually increasing deposits of mud, brought down by the Adda from the E. out of the Valteline. The naked and savage mountains have a very peculiar outline. Their sides are furrowed with ravines, down which, at some seasons, torrents precipitate themselves, strewing the margin of the lake with wreck. The Codera, one of the most furious torrents, spreads its waste of rocks and gravel in the shape of a fan, for a breadth of at least half a mile! This river at ordinary times trickles through the stones in paltry driblets, crossed by wooden bridges, under which the water is turned by artificial canals, flanked by wedge-shaped dykes. After traversing this desolate space the road emerges upon the delta of the Adda, and crosses the river by a fine Bridge, partly on the foundations of that built by Azzo Visconti. On a rock to the rt., once probably an is- land in the lake, stands the Spanish Fort Fuentes, built in 1G03, as the key of the Valteline. The lily, from Son- drio (Rte. 42) falls in on the 1., and the margin of the lake of Como is reached at 17 m. Colico (720 ft.), at the foot of Monte Legnone (8565 ft.). Though less unwholesome than formerly, owing to the drainage of a large portion of the marsh-land, Colico is not a good halting-place, and most persons push on by train or steamer. For the jour- ney to Bellagio, &c., see Rte. 43. ROUTE 42. MILAN TO INNSBRUCK, BY THE STEL- VIO. — RAILWAY, ROAD, AND STEAMER. \Iiles stations. Routes Colico . . 41 4 Delebio 10 Morbegno 12 Talamona 15 Ardenno 20 S. Pietro 26 Sondrio Rly. to (32 m.) Lecco ; in progress thence to (25 m.) Colico; Rly. to (26 m.) Sondrio ; in progress to (17 m.) Ti- rano. Most travellers, however, will prefer the train to Como (Rte. 32), and the Steamboat journey thence to Colico (Rte. 43). Dil. from Sondrio to Borniio in 10 hrs. ; Bormio to Eyers over \he summit, in 12 hrs., from June to Sept. I'he great featureof this route is the Pass of the Stelvio(91 75 ft.), the high- est in Europe practicable for carriages. Houte 42. — Lecco — Mandello. 9t being 2300 ft. above the Simplou, and 1000 ft. above the Great St. Bernard. It was constructed by the Austrian government, planned by the chief en- gineer, Donegani, and executed under the inspection of the engineer Domenici, by the contractor Talachini (1828), at an expense of nearly 3 millions of florins, or about 290,100L Whether we consider the boldness of the design, the difficulties of its execution from the great height and exposure to storms and avalanches, or the grandeur of the scenery through which it passes, the Stelvio road is the most remarkable in Europe. The galleries cut through the solid rock, along the margin of the Lake of Como— those higher up built of massive masonry, to resist the fall of avalanches — the long causeways carried over the morasses of the Yal- teline — the bridges thrown across tor- rents — the long succession of zigzag terraces, winding with gradual slope to surmount one of the highest ridges in the Alps — these features, though common to all Alpine thoroughfares, are here seen on the most magnificent scale. This road is sometimes impassable for wheel traffic during the winter months, but may always be crossed in sledges. Every spring, when the snow disappears, the ravages of the winter's storm and avalanche are dis- closed to view — injuries to be repaired only at great expense. The most interesting scenes on the route are the slioi-es of the Lake, and its excavated galleries; the gorge of Spondaluuga; the splendid view of the Ortler-Spitze, with its snowy glaciers, seen from the summit of the pass ; and the glaciers on the Tyrolese side skirted, apparently within the dis- tance of a stone's throw, by the car- riage-road. Milan is described in Rte. .51, to- gether with the Rly. as far as 32 m. Lecco (8000), a rapidly in- ci'easing town, with manufactures of iron and cotton-twist. Lecco (700 ft.) is chiefly remarkable for its beautiful situation (well de- N. Italy, scribed in the ' Promessi Sposi '), near the outlet of the Adda from the Lago di Lecco, or E. branch of the Lake of Como. The town is surrounded by mountains of a very bold and striking outline. The serrated ridge on the E. is well-named Besegone (great saw), and is worth a visit. Mte. Campione (7160 ft.) and Mte. Grigna (7910 ft.), both to the N., are best reached from the N. side (see below). The market on Saturday is a busy scene, and in the Villegiatura season Lecco is much frequented by rich Milanese families from their villas in the neighbouring Brianza and Plan d'Erba. The branch of the Lake of Como at the extremity of which Lecco is situated, is much wilder than the W. arm, [|A road leads N. between Eesegone and Cam- pione to the village of Ballahio, and thence descends to (12 m.) Introhhio, a charming centre for excursions at the head of Val Sassina (see below).] The excellent carriage-road onward which skirts the lake was formed partly by cutting a shelf out of the rock, partly by building up a terrace of masonry, and, in places where the rocks project very far into the lake, by boring galleries or tunnels through them. Three galleries, through which the road passes beyond the little village of Olcio, measure up- wards of 1000 yds. The views over the lake are of enchanting beauty, especially towards the upper end. The clear sunny sky of Italy, the placid lake, the olive and odorous citron-groves, and the trellised vine- bowers along its shore, contrast strikingly with the bleak region of bare rock and everlasting snow which the traveller encounters further on. 7 m. Mandello, at the mouth of the Neria, which flows fi'om the N.E. down the slopes of Monte Grigna. Nearly opposite Bellagio, which is conspicuous on the 1., about 5 m. further, the pretty cascade of the Fiume Latte descends from the rocks to the rt. of our road. It issues out of a cavern in the face of the preci- 98 Hoiite 42. — Varenna — Colico — Ardenno. pice ; and, though abundant in spring, is dry generally in autumn. 14 m. Varenna (Rte. 43), a pretty village at the mouth of the Val d'Esiuo. I hr. above it stands the picturesque Castle of PerJedo. 2 hrs. higher up S.E. is Esino, yfheuce Monte Grigna (7910 ft.) may be ascended in 5 hrs. *Superb view. 2 hrs. below the summit is a Hut of the It. Alpine Club (6150 ft.). The descent may be made S.W. to Mandello. This N. summit of Monte Grigna is officially called Moncodine; the S. summit (7160 ft.) is known as Monte Cam- pione. About 5 m. N. of Varenna are more excavated galleries, nearly ^ m. long. At Eegoledo, on a high terrace, is a good hydropathic establishment. 17 m. Bellano, a village at the mouth of the Pioverna, which issues from a narrow ravine and forms the Cascade of the Orrido di Nesso (200 ft,). A rough road runs S.E. up the Val Sassina to (10 m.) Introhbio. This valley was the cradle of the Counts Thurn and Taxis, the first postmasters in Germany (1852). 20 m. Dervio, on a promontory at the base of Monte Legnone (856.5 ft.). 25 m. Colico Junct. Stat, for Chia- venna(llte. 41). The Ely. traverses on a raised causeway the flat alluvial tract formed by the deposit of the Adda in the course of ages, and still partly in the state of a morass— the whole evidently an encroachment on the lake : and, turning E. from the Chiavenna line, enters the Valteline (Val Tellina ; Germ. Veltlin) or valley of the Adda. It passes on the 1. the ruined hill-fort Ftientes, built by the Spaniards, while lords of the Milanese in 1603, to in- timidate the Canton of the Grisons. This fort was the headquarters of the Jesuits and missionaries sent forth to convert the Protestants of the Valte- line; whose efforts, not confined to persuasion, led to the persecution, ex- patriation, and massacre of so many of its unfortunate inhabitants. The Koman Catholics of the valley, by whom this iniquity was perpetrated, June 20, 1620, though Swiss subjects, were protected by the Spaniards, and thus escaped punishment. The Val- teline was the scene of a mountain campaign between the French, under the Due de Rohan, and who fought at Morbegno in 1635. From 1512 to 1797, with some interruption, the Valteline, with the territory of Bor- mio and Chiavenna, belonged to the Swiss republic of the Grisons ; it was then added to the kingdom of Italy ; and at the Congress of Vienna was united to Lombardy until 1859, when the revolution transferred it to Sar- dinia. It was always regarded as an important possession by Austria, af- fording direct communication between their hereditary states and Lombardy. 10 m. Morbegno (4500), a well-built town. The snow mountains of the Bernina chain, especially Monte della Disgrazia, form a grand background to the view. Excellent silk is pro- duced in the neighbourhood. [A bridle-path leads S. up the Val del Bitto and over the Pass of Scni Marco, then by Val d'Orta, into Val Brembana, and so to Bergamo. W. rises the Pizzo dei Tre Signori (8600 ft.). Piazza, 25 m. from Bergamo, or Zogno, about 12 m., will afford night quarters. The scenery of Val Brem- bana is interesting and unexplored.] 12 m. Talamona, where the Adda is crossed near its confluence with the Masino. 15 m. Ardenno. Hence a good road runs N. up the Val Masino, a wild and striking valley, to the (10 m.) Bagni del Masino (3750 ft.). The Baths lie amidst magnificent scenery at the foot of Mte. delta Disgrazia *(12,074 ft.)j which is best seen and only accessible from this side. (For the ascent a gwd starting-point is the highest hut in V. di Mello,1or, still better, that in the Val Sasso Bisolo.) Two or three fine passes for mountaineers (the Zocca J^oute 42. — Sondrio — Tresenda — Tirano. Od the finest) lead over into Val Bre- gagliaj and so to Chiavenna. On the road between Ardenno and Masino is a boulder of very remarkable dimen- sions, said to be the largest in Europe. It lies about halfway between Cat- taeggio and S. Martino. The frequently varying course of the Adda, due to inundations, deprives this part of the valley of much of its beauty. The successive openings S. lead to steep passes communicating with the valleys of Bergamo. The hill of Sassella, famous for its vine- yards, rises on the 1. before reaching 26 m. Sondrio (1140 ft.), a cheerful town, the capital of the Valteline, and residence of a prefect (7000). It stands at the mouth of the picturesque Val Malenco, from which issues the Malero, a stream frequently very destructive to Sondrio, and guarded by massive embankments. There is a fine view from the an- cient castle of 3Iasegra. l9 m. N. (carriage there and back, 8 frs.), in the Val Malenco, is CMesa, amidst noble scenery. The grand snow mass of the Bernina is in front N., and that of Mte. della Disgrazia W. Between the two is the Muretto Pass, leading to Casaccia in Val Bre- gaglia. By the Val Lanterna, open- ing N.E. of Chiesa, is a path, which, crossing the Canciano Pass E., leads to Poschiavo or Le Prese. (See below.) From the Canciano Pass the Pizzo Scalino (10,925 ft.) can be ascended, offering the finest point of view of the Bernina group from the S. side.] Carriage-road onward. On leaving the town, a fine hospital, built by a private individual, is seen. Hence the scenery is somewhat uninteresting, but the vineyards have a certain fame, and numerous villages are interspersed among them. 12 m. Tresenda, Above, on the 1., marked by a watch-tower on a jutting rock, is Teglio, now a -village, but once the capital of the Valteline (Val Teg- lino), to which it gave its name, [A good road leads S. by a bridge over the Adda to the Aprica Pass (4050 ft.) and thence to Edolo and Val Camonica, or to the pass of Tonale (6150 ft.). Fine view on the ascent to the Aprica from the (4 m.) Belvedere (carriage from Sondrio, there and back, 15 fr.). There are short cuts for a pedestrian. (See Rte. 71.) About I hr. before reaching the Aprica Pass, a road S. to Bergamo turns off rt., and enters the Valle Belviso, following it until nearly the end, the last part of the road being through a fine beech wood, with good views of Monte Venerocolo and Monte Gleno. Here the path mounts to the large Alpe di Pila, and then by the Passo Barbellino (8000 ft.), between Monte Torena and Gleno, command- ing a fine but narrow view. Then down by the Lago di Barbellino with fine views, and to the Alp Barbellino, where the Valle Seriana cannot be fol- lowed on account of the river, but crossing another hill, the top of the Scala is reached, at the W. extremity of which the Serio rushes down, form- ing a fine cascade of some 800 ft. The road down the Scala is steep and diffi- cult; thence to (II hrs.) Bondioney where a carriage may be had for 8 frs. to (13 m.) Clusone, The road hence to Bergamo is very fine, and is tra- versed by steam Tramway as far as Ponte della Selva (Rte. 58).] 17 m. Madonna di Tirano, a small village, named from a Pilgrimage Church of the Virgin, containing much fine wood-carving, at the mouth of the valley of Poschiavo. A car- riage-road leads up it to the foot of the pass of the Bernina, and into the Engadine, passing the beautiful lake of ^Poschiavo. At (6 m.) Le Prese, on its banks, are comfortable quarters in a delightful situation. The Swiss frontier is 1 m. from Madonna di Tirano. (See Handbook for Switzer-' land.) 18 m. Tirano (1505 ft.), a small town of 2700 inhab., containing de- serted palaces of the Visconti, Palla* vicini, Salis, and other noble families* B 2 100 Route 42. — Sernio — B^ ormiot It has been devastated at various times by the inundations of the Adda, from which it is in perpetual danger of being swept away. 20 m. Sernio. Near this place in 1807, a landslip, from Monte Mas- succio, on the rt. bank of the Adda, fell into the bed of the river, so as completely to dam up the stream. The waters rose to a great height, overflowed the surrounding villages and fields, forming a lake many acres in extent, which lasted 11 days, and then burst, carrying desolation down the valley, and upon the unfortunate town of Tirano. The lake thus formed extended up the valley as far as Tovo. At Lovero the water stood 18 ft. deep, and injured the walls and foundations of the houses so much, that to this day many of them require to be suppoi'ted. Near this, 11 spires may be counted at one time, so nu- merous are the villages and churches in this part of the valley. 23 m. Grossotto, a large village at the mouth of the Val Grosina. The plot of the massacre of Protestants in 1620 was laid in a house near the inn. The valley, adorned by noble chestnut- trees, here becomes very picturesque. 28 m. BoUadore (2840 ft.), 5 m. higher up, the narrow and pictur- esque defile of La Serra divides the Valteline from the territory of Bormio. It was closed in ancient times by a strong wall and gate over the road, which was shut at night. 31 m. Leprese (3000 ft.), at the mouth of the Val di Eezzo, through which a useful path leads N.E. in 6 hrs. by Fontale to S. Catarina {Northern Gerviany, Ete. 385). 41 m. Bormio (4010 ft.). The Baths of Bokjiio, IJ m. higher up, afford better quarters (see below). They are shut after October. Bormio (1000), burned by the French in 1799, and again by accident in 1855, formerly enjoyed consider- able prosperity from the transit of merchandise between Venice and the Orisons, which accounts for its old houses and ruined towers. Very pure and delicious honey may be procured here packed in boxes. Through the whole of the Valteline, the language and people are quite Italian, as is the appearance of the country. As far as Bolladore it is ex- tremely rich. Mulberry and chestnut- trees and luxuriant vineyards clothe the hills, which are scattered over with villages and churches ; but at Bolla- dore the scenery becomes decidedly alpine, with no variety but rocks, pines, and snow. The district is appropriately termed " II freddo paese." Bormio is surrounded by snowy mountains, and the winter usually begins early in October. [Three lateral valleys open out at Bormio. 1. The Val Furva leads S.E. from the town along a char-road to (9 m.) Sta. Catarina, an Establishment with chalybeate waters in a splendid situa» tion, shut on 15 Sept. ; fine centre for mountain excursions. Ascent of M. Confinale, with superb view of the Ortler, Bernina, and Adamello groups (8 hrs.). Ascent of M. Tresero (9 hrs.). Guides necessary. From S. Catarina a path conducts in 8 hrs. over the Corno dei Tre Signori to Pejo {Hand- book S. Germany), whence the Val di Sole is easily reached, and then Trent or Botzen. '2. Val Dentro, W. of the Baths. Following this valley for 2 hrs., and then turning 1, into Val Viola, and crossing a Col (7900 ft.) into Val Campo, we reach the road from Tirano to Pontresina at Pisciadella. Or leaving Val Viola to the 1., and cross- ing the pass of Foscagno (6330 ft.), the short lateral valley of Trepalle descends into the sequestered Val Livigno, 6 hrs. from Bormio. Thence there are several ways into the Enga- dine, about 6 hrs. further. Scenery all very wild; a good guide required. 3. Val ¥taeU, N.W., often consi*-- Boute 42. — Bormio : Baths. 101 dered to hold the main stream of the Adda ; by this a mule-path leads in 12 hrs. to S. Maria in the Miiuster Thai, and reaches the Valley of the Adige at Glurns (Handbook for S. Germany).'^ The ascent of the Stelvio begins im- mediately behind Bormio. The road is excellent, and well engineered; every advantage is taken of the ground, and the ascent is surmounted by numerous zigzags. There are many Galleries, partly cut in the rock, but mostly arched with very strong masonry to resist avalanches and landslips. 1^ m. above the town are the New Baths of Bormio (4395 ft.), with hot saline sulphureous springs (90-100^ Fahr.). The Baths are much fre- quented in July and August, and are supplied through wooden pipes from the springs rising near the old Bath- iouse, which stands ^ m. higher up. Several of the Baths are large enough for swimming. Nearly abreast of the Old Baths the road crosses a bridge over a deep chasm, and traverses the Galleria dei Bagui : an obelisk of rock 40 ft. high is left standing beside it, and a slab records the construction of the road between 1820 and 1825. This bridge was blown up by the Austrians July 1859, to check the march of Gari- baldi's riflemen. The Pass was again disputed in 1866. An Inscription on the rocks commemorates the success of the Italians. The view looking back towards the Corno di S. Co- lombano is grand and wild. The road now runs along the edge of a tremendous precipice. On the "1. is the opening- of the Val Fraele, which was nearly stripped of its forests to furnish timber for the construction of the road. A sin- 10 or 12 hrs. to Sta. Maria. A sin- gular cascade is now seen bursting from a cavern in the face of the opposite precipice, and descending in one shoot 50 ft. This is the Braulio, which passes for the Source of the .Adda. The road here makes a sud- den turn to the rt., entering the deep and savage gorge of the Wormser- Loch. Its sides are rocky precipices, nearly vertical, and that along which the road is carried is in places worn smooth by the wintry avalanches which slide down it from the heights above. Wherever an avalanche is known to fall, the road is skilfully protected from injury by tunnels cut through the rock, or by galleries of solid masonry built over it, with sloping roofs, so as to turn off the falling masses of snow or rock, which roll harmlessly over the traveller's head into the abyss below. There are 7 of these galleries on this side of the pass, measuring to- gether 750 yds. Near the lower end of this gorge is the 1st House of Refuge, or Canton- iera di Piatta Martina (5585 ft.), a building of solid masonry, with cart- house and stables below, and bed- rooms and kitchen above. There are five of these refuges in different parts of the road, forming inns of a very humble class, but not unwelcome places of shelter in stormy weather. Three smaller houses (Case dei Rot- teri) are built at intervals by the roadside, to serve as dwellings for workmen, whose duty it is to clear away the snow, to repair all damage caused by it, and to render assistance to travellers. At the upper end of the Wormser- Loch, the road ascends in a series of zigzag terraces the sloping side of the hill, and emerges on the plain of the Braulio. This slope is called the Spondalunga (long wall); near it is the 2nd House of Eefuge (6500 ft.). Immediately afterwards the Ponte Alto crosses the torrent of the Val Vitelli. £A glacier descends this valley from the snowy masses of Monte Cristallo, a portion of the great Ortler group, ascended from this point by Mr. Tuckett in 1864.] Looking back from the Sponda- lunga, the Galleries under which the road is carried resemble a long battery with embrasures pierced for cannon. The road crosses the Braulio tor- rent by a bridge, and reaches the 102 Boiite 42. — Sta. Maria — Ferdinandshohe. 8rd Oantoniera (7590 ft.), and the wild open basin below the summit. Further on is 50 m. Sta. Maria (8315 ft.), the 4th Cantoniera and Italian Custom- house, close to the Swiss frontier. [The ancient pass of the Wormser- Joch leads from these buildings in 3 hrs., through interesting scenery, down to the Swiss village of Santa Maria iji the Miinsterthal, -whence the Adige can be gained at Glurns in 4 hrs. (see Handbooh for S. Germany). A good view from the ridge of the Wormser, easily reached : many rare Alpine plants. The Austrian Govern- ment wished to purchase the Pass of Santa Maria, in order to carry their road through it, but the Legislative Assembly of the Grisons refused to ac- cede to the proposal, and the Austrian engineers were in consequence com- pelled to conduct their road over the heights of the Stelvio.] For some distance the road looks down into the Miinsterthal on the 1. All verdure now ceases ; a few scanty mosses alone tinge the bare and shat- tered slate-rocks. The remainder of the ascent is never altogether free from snow, which sometimes remains in the month of July heaped up to a height of 6 or 8 ft. on each side of the road. On the 52 m. Stelvio Pass, or SWfser Jocli (9175 ft.), 1500 ft. higher than any other carriage-road in Europe, is the solitary workman's house of Ferdinandshohe. The frontier-line, separating Lombardy from the Aus- trian Tyrol, is marked by an obelisk. The Swiss boundary-line runs only •^ m. to the W. From the house a footpath leads over the slate shingle, in 20 min., to a projecting rock which commands a * wonderful pano- rama ; or, in 1 hr., Monte Plessura (9941 ft.) N.N.E. can be ascended, whence the view extends from the Bernina on the one side, to the moun- ^ius of the Oetzthal on the other. The Ortler-Spitze (12,811 ft.), seen} from top to bottom surrounded by! subordinate peaks clad in snow, and, witli glaciers streaming from its sides,' is inconceivably grand. [This, the loftiest and most interesting of the Tyrolean mountains, and recognised i from great distances along the range of the Alps westward, forms a northern spur from a vast mass of snowy sum- : mits, generally termed the Ortler group, circling round from the Stelvio Pass on the W., to the Gavia Pass, leading to Val Camonica, on the S., of which Mte. Cristallo (11,370 ft,), the Thuricieser Sp. (11,962 ft.), and the Madatsch Sp. on the Stelvio side ; the Konigsspitze (12,646 ft.), Moute Zehni (12,255 ft.), till lately confounded with it, and Zufall Sj). (12,344 ft.\ more truly called Monte Cevedale, near the centre of the curve; and the Fornaccia (11,950 ft.), Viozzi Sj>. (11,920 ft.), Pizzo del Mare (11,9^0 ft.), and Monte Tresero (11,800 ft.), overhanging the Gavia Pass, are tlie most noticeable members. Of these the Konigsspitze ranks next to the Ortler in importance, not only with respect to the group, but the whole of the Austrian Alps ; and from the N. especially, forms an almost equally grand object. From the central mass several minor ranges, or spurs, are projected : one, to the N.E., has for its highest summit the Mittlere Peder Spitze (11,349 ft.); the other, stretch- ing E., is of greater length, and in- cludes the Venezia Spitze, Zufrid Sp., and Eggen Sp. (11,214 ft.). Between these two ranges lies the Martell Thai. S.W., is a well-marked spur, ending in Monte Confinale (11, 07G ft.). On either side of this latter ridge are the Valle del Zehru and Val Forno. They are magnificent in their scenery, to which the Baths of Sta. Catarina, at the junction of the latter valley with Val Furva, afford ready access. For Sta. Catarina, ascent of Monte Con- finale, and further details of the Ortler group, see Handbooh for S. Germa7^.'\ The Tyrolese side of the pass is far steeper than the Italian, and nearly 50 zigzags (giravolte) are constructe4 Boute 42. — Franzenshohe — Gomagoi. 103 between the summit and Trafoi, in order to preserve a gradual descent. By this means the slope never exceeds 1 in 10. About half-way down the range of zigzag terraces, on a sheltered plat- form, stands a road-mender's Hut. 58 ra. Franzenshohe — 2ud Canton- iera (7200 ft.). Here the traveller looks down upon the vast and pictur- esque Madatscli glacier^ descending from the side of the Ortler into a gulf many thousand feet beneath him. The road descends nearly to a level with it at the 6th Cantoniera, called Bel BosGO, from the fir-trees 'which first appear in the vicinity. The glacier is but a short walk from this house ; by the side of the ice stands a little pilgrimage Chapel. The Madatsch- Spitze is a singular pointed mass of black rock, rising out of a sea of solid ice. The highest peak of the Ortler, and the full grandeur of its snowy range, is now gradually lost, but the Weiss Kugel, one of the Oetzthal snow-peaks, comes into view. Near this a marble tablet records the atrocious murder of Madame de Tourville, an English lady, by her husband, in 1876. The three Holy Springs are now seen in the beautiful valley far below — best overlooked from the * Weisse Knott, a pavilion with an obelisk to the memory of Josef Pichler, who first ascended the Ortler in 1804. 63 m. Trafoi (5080 ft.), a small hamlet in a splendid situation. A solitary path across the meadows leads in 40 min. to a little chapel con- taining images of Christ, the Virgin, and St. John, the object of frequent pilgrimages. They stand at the very base of the Ortler, whose snowy sum- mits and tall precipices impend over them. From the foot of the neigh- bouring cliff three springs (heilige drei Brunnen) burst, and give the hamlet its name — " Tres Fontes." The three streams are made to issue from the breast of the sacred figures. The spot was probably a sanctuary in pagan times, and the grandeur of the sur- rounding scenery is indescribable. A little above the house of the priest is a level track, called the Bear's Play- ground (Barenboden), from the fre- quent appearance of these animals, who breed in the forests, and often commit depredations on the herds. Three great glaciers descend towards the head of the glen. The scenery the whole way from the summit to Prad is not surpassed in any part of the Alpine chain. [The *Ortlerspitze may be ascended from the Trafoi side by three routes, two of which start from the Heilige drei Brunnen. The old route climbed up a steep tangled wooded slope for about 1000 ft. to the foot of the Pleis, an ice couloir constituting the princi- pal difficulty of the ascent ; thence a Plateau of ne've was gained, and only time and labour were required to reach the summit. Mr. Tuckett, in 1864, successfully varied this route by avoiding the Pleis and striking up the Taharetta TJial, filled with glaciers in its upper portion, and exposed to falling rocks, but from which the great slope of snow and ice leading to the summit was more easily reached. A third route has since been taken, which reaches the head of the Taba- rettathal, up the next hollow to the N., and by a more distant course from Trafoi. This and one from the Sul- denthal appear to be the best routes, and the ascent may be considered tolerably easy and safe for those accustomed to snow, and to require not more than between 6 and 7 hrs. The *view is magnificent towards every point of the compass, except the E., which is filled by a group of Dolomite crags.] The road crosses the stream four times during the descent to 65 m. Gomagoi (4265 ft.). Here is a strong Austrian Fort, commanding the Pass. [The Sulden Tlicd opens here rt,, and the Glacier at its head appears in view. This may be reached in 4 oi 104 Route 43. — Como to Calico. 5 hrs. The Becluded valley offers " features of the highest order of grandeur," and tliere is a superb view of the Ortlerspitze from the summit of the glacier, by -which also is a pass into the Martdl Tlial (IlandhooJc for 8. Germany) ; or the Konigssintze can be ascended by practised mountaineers. From the Suldenthal also is an in- teresting route to the head of Val Forno, and so to Sta. Catarina. Tt leads by the Sulden Glacier over the Janiger Scharte, or Eissee Joch, to the upper portion of the Langereferncr at the head of the Martellthal, and thence nearly at a level over the Cevedale Pass. From St. Gertnid, 2k hrs. up the Valley, there are two ways to the summit of the Ortler Spitze ; the first reaches in 4 hrs. a notch in the ridge, j m. N. of Tabaretta Sp., and visible from the village. Hence the "Tuckett route" is joined in 2 hrs., and the summit reached in 3 more. The second course makes for the ridge S. of the Tabaretta Sp., but success beyond much depends on the state of the snow.] Below Gomagoi the road crosses the stream, and the insignificant village of Stilfs (It. Stelvio) is seen upon a height on the 1., whence this pass takes its name. Its houses look like swallows' nests attached to the face of the rock. 70 m. Prad (2910 ft.), with a very ancient Clivrch on a hillock. We noAv emerge into the valley of the Upper Adige or Vintschgati, crossing it on a causeway by a long straight road which terminates in a ridge over the Etsch (It. Adifje) at 73 m. Spondinig (291.5 ft.). Here our route falls into the road leading E. to Meran and N. to Landeck. The dil. goes on E. to 75 m. Eyrs, whence dil. in 11 hrs. to (o2 m.) Lmidech Stat, for (4G m.) Tnmhruck ; or in 5 hrs. to (28 m.) Meran Stat, for (80 ra.) Botzen and (80 m.) Innsbruck. See Handbook for Southern Germany. Extra Post with two horses, including all fees, from Landeck to Eyrs, 43 fl. ; Meran to Eyrs, 26 fl.; Eyrs to Trafoi, 12 fl. ; Trafoi to the Baths of Bormio, 33 fl. ; thence to Sondrio, 70 fr. ROUTE 43. COMO TO COLICO, BY STEAMER. — THE LAKE OF COMO. Approximate time. mill. Como Cernobbio .... 11 Blevio 7 Moltrasio 7 Torno 7 Uric 5 Carate 5 Palanzo 7 Pognana 6 Torriggia .... 6 Nesso 8 Argegno 13 Sala 12 Campo 5 Lenno 8 Azzano 4 Tremezzo 5 Cadenabbia .... 4 Bellagio 7 Menaggio .... 11 Varenna 13 Bellano 16 Acquaseria .... 14 Rezzonico .... 7 Dervio 7 Cremia 7 Musso 8 Dongo 6 Gravedona . . . . 12 Domaso 7 Colico 13 4 hrs. 8 min. The Lake of Como (700 ft.), called by the ancients Lacus Larius (te, haik maxime! — Virg.), shut in by steep and lofty mountains, is about 31 miles long, by either arm, from 1 to 2| m. broad, and in some places 1900 ft. THt ITAI1A^ lAKES M V^V y;7^ •^;7 ^ . ' ;>Mt , ^v4^y^^^~''^"""l' t/y„/, ,'■ Boute 43. — The Lake of Oomo, 105 deep. Its S. extremity is divided into two branches by the promontory of Bellagio ; at the end of the W. arm lies Como; at the extremity of the other, on the E., Lecco. The chief feeder of the lake is the Adda, which enters it at the N., and flows out at Lecco, there being no outlet at the Como end. Taken altogether, it per- haps surpasses in beauty of scenery, and in the exuberance of its semi- tropical vegetation, every other lake in Italy. It enjoys a classical reputa- tion, as the residence of the two Plinys, and the scene of the scientific re- searches of the elder Pliny, the na- turalist. Claudian describes the voy- age up the lake in the following elegant lines : — Protinus umbrosS quS vestit littiis olivS Larius, et dulci mentitur Nerea fluctu, ParvS puppe lacum preetervolat, ocius inde Scandit inaccessos brumali sidere montes. In addition to vines, figs, and mul- berries, the aloe, cactus, pomegranate, and olive, flourish on its shores, which are studded with handsome villas, picturesque villages, and commodious hotels. To describe all the objects of in- terest on the shores, and the ex- cursions which may be made among the surrounding mountains and val- leys, would fill a volume. The follow- ing enumeration embraces only those points of view which are easy of access, and the objects visible from the boat or steamer. RowhoatSy with awning, generally 1 fr. 50 c. the hour, with a few addi- tional soldi ; a second rower, 1 fr. extra. In fine weather during summer the winds are invariable : from sunrise to 10 or 11 the tivano, a gentle breeze, from the N., ; calm for an hour or two till past 12, when the hreva, a gentle breeze, rises from the S. and continues till sunset. Boats avail themselves of these winds, and wait for them as a river barge waits for tide. As a general rule, the surface is but slightly fur- rowed ; sudden storms are, however, not rare, and the violent squalls that sometimes sweep down the lake are dangerous to the inexperienced. The boats are most picturesque, and ex- actly resemble those depicted by old painters. They are not so slow as their appearance would lead one to expect. The principal fish are the trout, pike, perch, and agone, the last a species of clupea peculiar to the lakes of Lombardy. The agoni migrate pe- riodically, from one end of the lake to the other. Steamers, between Como and Colico in 4 to 5 hours, start 3 times a day from either end of the lake, touching at the principal places on either shore — marked thus f- Many of them have deck saloons, where refreshments and sometimes table-d'hote dinners can be had, while the upper deck makes an excellent promenade. Leaving Como, the steamer coasts along the W. part of the town, from which there is a good view of the dif- ferent villas, with the hill and tower of Baradello in the background. The shores are speckled with villages and white villas, the summer resort of the Milanese during the season of the Villeggiatura. (W.) Villa Baimondi, very large, just beyond the Borgo Vico, or suburb of Como. t(W.) Cernobbio. | m. beyond the landing-place, in a beautiful Garden with paths running up the Cliff behind, is the Villa d'Este, once in- habited by Queen Caroline of Bruns- wick, wife of George IV. It now belongs to the adjacent Hotel. Cer- nobbio is 3 m. by carriage-road from Como. 3Ionte BinUno (4515 ft.) may be ascended in 3^ hrs,, through the village of Rovenna, which rises N. of the hotel. Sanctuary on the summit. *Extensive and charming view. Op- posite lies (E.) Blevio, with several pretty villas. f This mark denotes landing-piers of the steamers. At other places passengers are set on shore in boats, included in the fare. Boute 43. — The Lake of Como, 105 deep. Its S. extremity is divided into two branches by the promontory of Bellagio ; at the end of the W. arm lies Como; at the extremity of the other, on the E., Lecco. The chief feeder of the lake is the Adda, which enters it at the N., and flows out at Lecco, there being no outlet at the Como end. Taken altogether, it per- haps surpasses in beauty of scenery, and iu the exuberance of its semi- tropical vegetation, every other lake in Italy. It enjoys a classical reputa- tion, as the residence of the two Plinys, and the scene of the scientific re- searches of the elder Pliny, the na- turalist. Claudian describes the voy- age up the lake in the following elegant lines : — Protinus umbrosS quS vestlt littus olivS Larius, et dulci mentitur Nerea fluctu, Parvfl puppe lacum prsetervolat, ocius inde Scandit inaccessos brumali sidere montes. In addition to vines, figs, and mul- berries, the aloe, cactus, pomegranate, and olive, flourish on its shores, which are studded with handsome villas, picturesque villages, and commodious hotels. To describe all the objects of in- terest on the shores, and the ex- cursions which may be made among the surrounding mountains and val- leys, would fill a volume. The follow- ing enumeration embraces only those points of view which are easy of access, and the objects visible from the boat or steamer. Rowloats, with awning, generally 1 fr. 50 c. the hour, with a few addi- tional soldi; a second rower, 1 fr. extra. In fine weather during summer the winds are invariable : from sunrise to 10 or 11 the tivano, a gentle breeze, from the N., ; calm for an hour or two till past 12, when the breva, a gentle breeze, rises from the S. and continues till sunset. Boats avail themselves of these winds, and wait for them as a river barge waits for tide. As a general rule, the surface is but slightly fur- rowed ; sudden storms are, however, not rare, and the violent squalls that sometimes sweep down the lake are dangerous to the inexperienced. The boats are most picturesque, and ex- actly resemble those depicted by old painters. They are not so slow as their appearance would lead one to expect. The principal fish are the trout, pike, perch, and agone, the last a species of clupea peculiar to the lakes of Lombardy. The agoni migrate pe- riodically, from one end of the lake to the other. Steamers, between Como and Colico in 4 to 5 hours, start 3 times a day from either end of the lake, touching at the principal places on either shore — marked thus f- Many of them have deck saloons, where refreshments and sometimes table-d'hote dinners can be had, while the upper deck makes an excellent promenade. Leaving Como, the steamer coasts along the W. part of the town, from which there is a good view of the dif- ferent villas, with the hill and tower of Baradello in the background. The shores are speckled with villages and white villas, the summer resort of the Milanese during the season of the Villeggiatura. (W.) Villa Raimondi, very large, just beyond the Borgo Vico, or suburb of Como. t(W.) Cernobbio. | m. beyond the landing-place, in a beautiful Garden with paths running up the Cliff behind, is the Villa d'Este, once in- habited by Queen Caroline of Bruns- wick, wife of George IV. It now belongs to the adjacent Hotel. Cer- nobbio is 3 m. by carriage-road from Como. Monte BUhino (4515 ft.) may be ascended in 3^ hrs., through the village of Bovenna, which rises N. of the hotel. Sanctuary on the summit. *Extensive and charming view. Op- posite lies (E.) Blevio, with several pretty villas. f This mark denotes landing-piers of the steamers. At other places passengers are set on shore in boats, included in the fare. 106 Eou te 43. — Torno — Cadenahbia. t(E.) Torno, a pictnresque village on a projecting point, E. of it, at the end of the bay, is a large ViUa of the Tn>iti family, known as the V. PUniana, not because Plinv (the younger) lived here (his country re- sidence having been more probably at Leimo). bat on accoxmt of a neigh- bouring intermittent spring described in his -wri tings, +(W.) Moltrasio, with the large YiUa PaiPih:n^a. There is a pretty waterfiall. and quarries of a black cal- careous slate for roofing, which may Interest the geologist. (W.) Carate, where the carriage- road from Como ends. Further on is a montmient 60 ft. high, erected to the memory of Prof. : Frank of Pavia (ISol), at a cost of I SOW., bequeathed by himself, t(W.) Torrigia. In the mountain i above the village is a remarkable cavern of considerable extent, in I which were discovered in 1849 the remains of various animals, including the cave bear, whence it is called the Buea deW Ono. At the foot of Monte S. Primbo is +fE.) VesBO, at the opening of a deep ravine, called the Orrido, with a smadl waterfall and two picturesque bridges. (W.) Aigeguo, at the mouth of the Val Intehi, thrtjugh which a car- riage-road leads to (9 m.) Lanzo, and a rough track in 6 hrs. to Morde &ertero»o (Bte. 32). Beyond Argegno are the villages of Colonno and Sala, and the aaeSl Itola C&maeina. (W.) CsBibo, in the bay formed by theheadhuadofDo^odiLatedo. Here is the Ytlla AreowxU (BalbiaDello), open to visitors. Bound the promon- tory lies t(W.) Lenno, the supposed site of f Tbia nurk denotes UndiDg-pkrs of the ■tfiafffffi At otber places pawsengaB are set OB diore IB boafa^ iodiided io tbe Cue. one of Pliny's villas, which from its sombre situation he called Tragedia. 350 ft, above the Lake stands the Church of the *Madonua del Soc- corso. The way to it is first by a path through vineyards and across a stream, and then by a paved road with 1-1 chapels at intervals c-- the wayside. These chapels a: similar to those in the Sacri Monti l : Orta, Varallo, and Varese. Thcv contain life-sized painted figures, re- presenting incidents in the life of ou: Lord, and are of considerable meri: There is great vivacity in the atti- tudes and expression of many of the groups and skill in arrangement. Ol Sept, Sth the fete is attended ly crowds of peasants. t("^.) Tiemezzo, in a beautiful bay (La Tremezzina), studded with villas and churches, and surrounded by the richest vegetation. I tv'W.) Cadenahbia, in one of the loveliest situations on the lake. A shady avenue leads to the YUla Car- Jotta (formerly Sommariva). belong- ing to the Duke of Saxe Meiningen, ■ which contains groups of Cupid and Psyche. Venus and Paris, Palamedes, and a Magdalen, by Canova : and the reliefs of the Triumphs of Alexander I the Great, executed for the first [ Xapoleon, by TtiOricaldien, to decorate the arch of the .Simplon at Milan. They cost nearly 15,00OZ. The tomb I of (5ount Sommariva, in the chapel, . ishx Marchen. Omnibus to Menaggio Bly. Stat. (Ete. iO;. Ij hr. above Cadenabbia is the Church of the Madonna di San Martino, perched upon a shelf of rock commanding a beautiful view. Morde Crocione (5500 ft,) may be ascended by a circuitous mule-path in 6 hrs., but the direct way is steep and fatiguing, and at the top the grass is even dangerously slippei^. The finest view is not that from the N. point where stands a large wooden cross, but from another summit far- ther W, Vj €>£. ft jy 9rm, is tibe *Tf J^IJ^'^; *• 500 fi. a::- Clmrd is a - _ _ - 7 - Gitmd. Fermr . A. good carT-i^'T-: . _ _ -.-iTiii '_t lulls beluiid. I : .: Z ; 1 : 1 _ ^ Leceo, tharoc^ BriaBza, cor — . . - t - : OTer bolhlwttiich^ :: :_ _ t 7 t - - ■ ^ : : . ^KoBte 8. F:.^ with m I -: fine par :ti:_ ' easily i^ - : are cor- „ sus. A ; - 108 Boute 44. — Como to Lecco. S. Abbondio, near the foot of the Sasso Bancio, or Orange Rock (5480 ft.), along which a dangerous footpath runs, traversed by the llussians, at the cost of many lives, in 1799. (W.) Cremia. In the Church is a *St. Michael, attributed to Paolo Veronese. (W.) Musso, above which is a Castle, the stronghold of the adventurer Giovanni Medici (1525-1531). (W.) Dongo, a large village at some distance from the shore. The beau- tiful hanging gardens in this neigh- bourhood belong to a Milanese Count, and are shown to the public. t(W.) Gravedona, after Como and Lecco the largest town on the Lake. " It ought not to be left unvisited by any one who cares about architecture" (G. E. Street), on account of its two Churches — the one (S. Giovanni JBat- tista) a haptistenj with five E. apsidal recesses ; the other (S. Vincenzo), con- taining in its sacristy an exquisite example of silversmith's work of the 15th cent., a processional cross nearly 2 ft. across the arms, and 3 ft. high, ornamented with filigree work, nielli, turquoises, and blue enamel, and a richly wrought chalice of the same date — the flat surfaces filled with blue and white Limoges enamels. The large elegant Villa, with four towers, built by Card. Gallio, now belongs to the Delpero family. By the valley of the Liro which here flows into the lake, are two passes to the Val Mesocco,— the Fasso di Ca- medo (7030 ft.), to (9 hrs.) Koveredo, and the Passo di S. Jorio (6417 ft.), leading in about the same time to Bellinzona. Beyond Gravedona runs the ancient track called Strada Regiua, which, according to tradition, was made centuries ago by Theodolinda, Queen of the Lombards, and passed the precipices of the Sasso Bancio. + This mark denotes landing-piers of the Bteamers. At other places passengers are set on shore in boats, included in the fare. (W.) Domaso is beautifully situated* under the Como di Durin (7150 ft.). Fine *view from the Chapel of the Madonna di Livo, on the slopes. Here are some iron-mines, consisting of crystallized carbonate or spathose iron, in the mica^slate rock. t(E.) Colico (Rly. Stat.), wlsere the two great Passes of the Spliigen (Rte. 41) and the Btelyio (Rte. 42) branch off N. and E. ROUTE 44. COMO TO LEGCO.— STEAMER. Approximate time. hrs. miu. Como Bellagio .... 1 50 Lierna . 20 limonta . 8 Vassena . 8 Onno . . 9 Mandello . 10 Abbadia . 9 Lecco . . 20 3 14 Four times daily, in 3^ to 4J hrs. The voyage as far as Bellagio is described in Rte. 43. Here there is a change of Steamers, and sometimes a long halt. Rounding the promontory y. the lake is then crossed S.E. to Lierna,, opposite to which, on the W. bank, is Limonta. The scenery is very fine and wild, and the villages few. Vassena, at the foot of precipitous heights, stands on the "NV. bank, Be- yond it is Onno, on leaving which the lake is crossed, and the E. ba^Ji followed to Lecco (Rte. 42). ^ MouteAB. — Baveno to Varallo. 109 HOUTE 45. BAVE^^O TO VARALLO, BT MONTE MOTTERON"E AND OKTA. — MULE-PATH AND BOAT. Monte Motterone may be ascended by an equally good path from Stresa in 4 hrs. (Rte. 47). The routes unite at (I hr.) Someraro (1500 ft.), equi- distant from both places, and reached through chestnut woods. The path- way is then carried over a neck of the mountain, finally emerging on a grassy slope. At the base of this are several dairy-farms or chalets, where excellent cream, milk, cheese, &c., may be obtained. J hr. below the summit is a good Hotel, in a splendid position. Here is a Station of the Italian Meteorolo- gical Society, well provided with in- struments of recent construction, including Denza's Anemograph. The temperature is very equable, averag- ing 55° Fahr. during July, Aug., and Sept. 700 species of wild flowers are found in the vicinity, and the * views are superb. Passing the Hotel, we reach the summit of 3 hrs. Monte Motterone (4893 ft.), 'commanding one of the *finest pano- ramas on the S. declivity of the Alps, ^^Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn are Ihidden by the nearer hills of the Val &esia and by Monte Rosa. To the rt. eif )the latter are seen the Cima di Jazi, rietschhorn, Mischabel group, Monte Leone, Finsteraarhorn, and Bortelhorn, Farther E, rise the peaks and glaciers of the Bernar- dino and Spliigen passes, and in the distance the Bernina Alps and the Adamello. Almost at his feet the traveller sees seven lakes — Maggiore, Orta, Mergozzo, Monate, Comabbio, Biandrone, and Varese ; and still farther to the rt. the great plain of Lombardy and Piedmont, with Milan in the centre, of which the Duomo is distinctly visible. The two great tributaries of the Po, the Sesia and the Ticino, appear like silver ribbons traversing the dark ground of the plain ; the distant Apennines of Parma and Modena close this unrivalled panorama to the S., whilst the plain of Lombardy stretches afar to the E. until lost in the horizon. If the weather be unfavourable for the view, the traveller may reach Orta without passing over the summit, bearing to the 1., and gaining a full hour. From the summit a rough path descends steeply in 2 hrs. to Omegna. The mule-path to Orta leads by Cheggino (2120 ft.) in 2 hrs. to Armeno (172U ft.), where we reach the high road for (2 m.) Miasino, and passing the Rly. Stat. (Rte. 31), arrive at (2 m.) Orta. The Sacro Monte may be visited on the way by persons pressed for time, but is worth a separate excursion. Orta (1220 ft.) is delightfully placed on the borders of the lake, but at the foot of a steep declivity, so that the walks are always hilly. The charming Villa Natta has beauti- ful gardens projecting into the lake. A path leads through them (small fee), or from the Piazza, in 10 min., to the Sacro Monte, a sanctuary dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, beautifully situated on a wooded promontory, approached by 20 chapels or oratories. Some are elegant in their architec- ture ; and they contain, as at Varallo, groups in terra-cotta, of which at least seven are good works of art. The hill is laid out like a garden, a character which peculiarly belongs to the mountain slopes which surround this lake, and whence probably its name is derived. The magnolia and cactus ai'e seen growing in the open air. The views are of singular beauty, comprising the lake, the wooded mountains, villages which speckle the shores and sides of the hills, and the distant Alps. Important fete on Aug. 2,-the day of S. M. degli Angeli, and two following days. The *Isola di San ©iulio, opposite 110 Boiite 45* — Pella, Orta, is au object of singular beauty. (Boat with one rower there and back, H fr., waiting an hour.) The church and village surmount a rock which rises out of the deep lake ; and the bright buildings contrast beautifully with the blue waters. The Church, chiefly modernised, but retaining ten columns of architectural interest, was built on a spot rendered sacred by the retreat of fSan Giulio in the 4th cent. ; his ashes are preserved in a vault. In the Sacristy are the vertebrae of a monstrous serpent (in reality bones of a whale), said to have been destroyed by the saint. Here also is a beautiful *Holy Family, by Gaud. Ferrari. The church contains several damaged but admirable fres- coes ; a chapel rudely painted by an unknown master in li86 ; a *fresco by Gaud. Ferrari, the Virgin and Child enthroned with four Saints, singularly graceful, but injured ; above, the Martyrdom of St. Stephen ; on the vaulted roof the four Doctors of the Church, with the Evangelistic symbols — interesting examples of the pure Lombard style ; and a curious sculptured *pulpit with four black columns. The sepulchral urn of the traitor Longobard duke Mimulfo, with re- liefs of San Giulio driving out snakes from the island, has been converted into an alms-box, and placed near the door. On the pillars of the nave are some interesting frescoes, bearing the dates 1421 and 1431. Guilla, the wife of Berenger II., king of Lombardy, took refuge on the island in 9G2, and defended it resolutely against Otho I., emperor of Germany, who had in- vaded Italy and deposed her husband. Otho restored the island to the bishops of Novara, who had long held it be- fore it was seized by Berenger. From Orta-Miasino Stat, to Armeno, 1^ hr. by carriage-road ; char-road thence to Monte Motterone in 4 hrs. Pleasant walk to (I hr. E.) Monte Mesma, by Miasino (two-horse car- riage, 15 fr.), a Franciscan Convent, commanding a fine sunset view of Monte Rosa; to (I hr. S.E.) Ameno (carriage, 12 fr.), where Daron Soia» roli has a good collection of Indian arms ; and to (| hr. S.S.E.) Vacciagot just beyond which is the Madonna della Bocciola (Thorn), affording a grand view over the lake (1565 ft.). The 16th-cent. Church (key kept by the Sacristan at Vacciago) has some good paintings by Agostino Canerio. 3 m. S. of Orta, the extreme end of the Lake, is the picturesque old Torre di Buccione (1500 ft.), reached by steamer, boat, or carriage (Rte. 31). Steamer or row-boat from Orta to Pella [Donkey to (4^ hrs.) Varallo, 7 fr.]. 1^ hr. S. of Pella rises the Madonna del Sasso (2245 ft.), overlooking the Orrido di Boletto, a precipice nearly 1700 ft. in vertical height. From Pella a steep path leads up the mountain-sides to f j hr.) Arola (2020 ft.), amidst the richest vegeta- tion, with delightful views over the lake. Forest-trees offer their shade, and the road in some places passes amidst precipices of granite in a state of decomposition. Here many of the specimens sold at Baveno are ob- tained. The path continues through park-like scenery, passing a pretty waterfall of the Fellino, and in 2| hrs. from Pella reaches the Col della Colma (3090 ft.). From an eminence on the 1. is a fine *view of the lakes of Orta and Varese, the plains of Lombardy, and Monte Rosa. The descent on the other side is not less beautiful. The Val Sesia is seen in the deep distance, richly wooded and studded with churches and vil- lages ; the path leads down by sunny glades and slopes ; then changes almost suddenly to the gloom of a ravine, where there are quarries, formerly worked for the buildings of Varallo, buried in a forest of enor- mous walnut and chestnut trees. After passing Campolongo the path improves, and at (1 hr.) Civiasc& (2350 ft.), we join the carriage-road. ^ hr. further is passed the Chapel of Loreto, with frescoes by Gaud. Ferrari} and another ^ hr. suffices to reach iP' Varallo (Rte. 2U). A shorter path mounts directly S.W. from Pella through woods to the isolated Church of Centonaro (fine view), then passes through Arid, and descends into the Valley of the Pellino, whence it re- mounts to Arola, and soon afterwards joins the mule-path. ROUTE 46. VAEALLO TO MACUGNAGA, BY THE VAL MASTALLONE. There is a good carriage-road from Varallo to Fobello. From thence Ponte Grande is reached in 6j hrs.' walking. Mules can be taken over the pass, but the descent on either side is steep for riding. On leaving Varallo (1515 ft.) the valley gradually contracts till the road reaches a remarkable gorge where the river, hernmed-in by vertical rocks 150 ft. high, is spanned by the (3 m.) Ponte della Gula, too narrow for wheel-vehicles. Another bridge bears the carriage-road. The scenery for the entire distance is of the most exquisite character, the vegetation being even richer than in the Val Sesia. Beyond (8 m.) Ferrea the valley divides, the rt. branch leading due N. to Rimella, and over the Col della Dorchetta, into the Val Strona (Rte. 31) ; while that on the 1. grows narrower and steeper, and then suddenly opening discloses a rich scene of wooded mountain and meadow, and the little village of 11 m. Fobello. This valley is the cradle of cooks, who migrate hence all over Europe, Beyond Fobello the upper end of the Val Mastallone is open and bare of foliage, and a steep ascent leads to the (3 hrs.) Col di Baranca (5760 ft.), with a Chapel. On the 1., the track from the Col d'Egua falls in. On the rt. rises the Pizzo del Moro, a beautiful point of view, easily ascended from Fobello. From the tempting hill on the 1. the prospect is not improved. The descent B,oute 46. — Varallo to Macugnaga. Ill towards the Val OUoccia is abrupt, and the view over the Val Anzasca magnificent. The Val OUoccia is richly wooded, but for some years the axe has been at work, and much fine timber has been felled. The path passes through Bannio (2235 ft.), on a height above the Anza, and 20 m. further reaches 3 hrs. Ponte Grande (2180 ft.), 4 hrs. below Macugnaga (5115 ft.). (See Handbook for Switzerland.^ Macugnaga may also be reached by the equally beautiful Val Sermenza, a continuation of the Val Sesia, which runs E. from Varallo, passing (2 m.) Valmaggia, and (7 m.) Balmuccia. Beyond this village the valley is very narrow and tortuous, particularly near the entrance, where the Torre di Bog' cioleto towers up to a height of 328 ft. : a char-road runs as far as 3 hrs. Rimasco, chief village of the valley. Here the road divides ; 1., through grand scenery to the German village of Rima ; rt., to the Val Anzasca by Carcoforo. [From Itir^xa two passes lead to Alagna, and there is another track mounting steeply to the westward, by which the Turlo pass is gained close to the summit of the ridge. (See Handbook for Switzerland. y^ Above Rimasco the rt. valley be- comes more wild and open, and in IJ hr. the track reaches the last vil- lage, Carcoforo. From hence the traveller has the choice of two routes to the Val Anzasca, but even if bound for the head of that valley he will do better to take the Col d'Egua, leading to Ponte Grande, so as to enjoy the glorious walk from that village to Macugnaga. The Col d'Egua (7060 ft.) is reached in 2 hrs. from Carcoforo by a rather steep and continuous ascent. The summit, when clear, commands a very grand view. From the top there is a 112 Boute 47. — Ai to Locarno. rapid descent over rough ground to the undulating ridge which forms the summit of the 13aranca Pass. The track, which is ill-marked, joins that from Fobello close to the small oratory. The descent to Bannio and Ponte Grande has been already described. Time from Carcoforo to Ponte Grande, 6 hrs. Travellers pressed for time, and ■wishing to reach Macugnaga in one long day from Varallo, may take a pass, which diverges from that last described, at the village of Carcoforo, about the same height, but more in- teresting than that of the Turlo (see Handbook for Sidtzerland). The ascent from Carcoforo is very steep ; and it takes more than 3 hrs. to reach the summit of the Bocchetta di Carcoforo. This commands a mag- nificent view of Monte Rosa and the Saas Grat. On the other side there is a faintly-marked track along a steep slope until an abandoned gold mine is reached. Below this the path de- scends into the short Val Quarazzola, a recess in, the Val Quarazza, down which runs the path from the Turlo. The guides usually descend to Borca, but this is unneces- sary, as there is a shorter track to Macugnaga by the S. side of the Anza. Time from Balmuccia, 10 hrs.' steady walking, exclusive of halts. The trout-fishing is reported to be very good in the Val Sermenza and Val Mastallone. In both the beauty is gi-eatly increased by the brilliant green of the water and the abundant woods. ROUTE 47. AEONA TO LOCARNO, BY STEAMER. — LAGO MAGGIOEE. Approximate time. mm. Arona Angela 5 Meina 15 Lesa 20 Belgirate 25 Stresa 25 Isola 10 Baveno 10 Suna 15 Pallanza 10 Intra 20 laveno 30 Ghiffa 25 Oggebbio 15 Cannero 15 Luino 25 Maccagno .... 20 Cannobbio . . . .15 Brissago .... 20 Ascona 20 Locarno 20 6 hrs. The Lago Maggiore (G45 ft.)-, Lacus Verbanus of the Komans, is 37 m. long, and 3 m. wide at its greatest breadth, between Baveno and Laveno. Only a small portion at its N. extremity be- longs to Switzerland. About 7 m. S. of Locarno, the Italian frontier com- mences. The navigation of the lake is free to both states. The chief rivers by which it is fed are the Ticino, flowing from the St. Gotthard and Ber- nardino ; the Maggia, running through the beautiful valley of the same name ; the Tresa, which drains the Lake of Lugano ; and the Tosa, descending from Domo d'Ossola. The scenery of its upper end is bold and mountainoiJB, and the W. bank from Pallanza to Stresa is charming ; but, towards the S. and E., the hills are low and devoid of character. There is a large variety Boute 47. — Meina — Isola Bella. 113 of fish : the fishery is for the most part the property of the Borromeo family. Greatest depth, 2800 ft. The sides are so precipitous in some parts of the N. branch that there is scarcely a path along them. Villages and churches are, however, perched on the heights ; and wherever a deposit has been formed in the lake by a torrent, a village will be found. Steamers 3 times a day between Arona and Locarno in about 6 hrs. Restaurant on board. Leaving Arona, the boat crosses to (W.) t Angara, a fief of the Borro- meo family, on a Dolomitic peak, at the foot of which is the village. Angera occupies the site of the Roman station of Angetona. It ap- pears to have been a place of some importance, and to have stood on the site of a temple of Jupiter. Its mediaeval Castle, although scarcely inhabited, is kept in repair. The rooms are large and lofty, the walls orna- mented with family portraits, and the windows command lovely views. In one corner of the garden is a curious passage descending to the well, which supplied water to the in- habitants from the lake. The castle dates from the time of Giovanni Visconti : the frescoes in some of the apartments represent events in the life of his father, Ottone Visconti, the warlike bishop who lived in the end of the 13th cent. 2 m. W. lies Taino Stat. (Rte. 14). In crossing the lake to (W.) fMeina, the Statue of S. Carlo is a conspicuous object on the heights near Arona. (W.) flesa, for many years the re- sidence of Manzoni, author of the Promessi Sposi. (W.) Belgirate, a pretty town, much frequented in summer and autumn by the Milanese and Genoese aristocracy. (W.) Stresa, in one of the most beautiful situations on the Lake, with f Denotes landing-places of the steamers. N. Italy. handsome villas of the Duchess of Genoa (at the entrance of the town), Princess Pallavicini, and others. 875 ft. above Stresa is a large Rosminian convent, now a school. In the Church is a good monument to Antonio Ros- mini, the founder (1855), by Vela. Boats for the Borromean Islands : printed tariff. Monte Motterone may be ascended in 4 hrs., passing through chestnut woods and over pastures (Rte. 45). A road leads also S.W. to (6 m.) Gignese (2565 ft.), whence jNIonte Motterone may be reached in 2 hrs. The drive from Stresa to (10 m.) Arona is beautiful, passing close to the lake, often on raised terraces. The Borromean Islands consist of the Isola Bella, Isola Madre, Isola San Giovanni, near Pallanza, all belonging to the Borromeo family, and the Isola Superiore, or dei Pescatori, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, or by families originally of the island, who, having emigrated and become rich, have built here retreats for their latter days. Passengers are conveyed free of charge to and from the steamers here, as at all the other stations on the lake. The *Isola Bella, until 1671 a mass of barren slate-rock, was converted by Count Vitalio Borromeo (1690) into a beautiful garden, teeming with the vegetation of the tropics (50 c. each visitor). It consists of terraces, the lowest founded on piers thrown into the lake, rising in a pyramidal form one above another, and lined with statues, vases, obelisks, and cypresses. Upon these, not merely the orange, citron, myrtle, and pome- granate, but aloes, cactuses, the camphor-tree, several species of me- trosideros and other Australian plants — flourish in the open air. The opinions of travellers are not unanimous in their admiration of this lovely spot. Matthews extols it as "the magic creation of labour and taste ... a fairy-land, which might serve as a model for the gardens of Calypso ;" Saussure calls it " uu mag- 114 Boiite 47. — Isola Madre — Baveno. nifique caprice, une pens^e grandiose, une esp^ce de creation;" Gibbon, "an enchanted palace, a work of the fairies, in a lake accompanied with moun- tains." To taste it may have little pretension ; but, for a traveller fresh from the rigid climate of the north, this singular creation of art, with its aromatic groves, its aloes and cactuses starting out of the rocks — and, above all, its glorious situation, bathed by the dark-blue waters of the lake, re- flecting the sparkling white villages on its banks and the distant snows of the Alps— cannot fail to afiford plea- sure. Every handful of mould on the island was originally brought from a distance. The walls of the terraces on which the lemon and orange trees grow, are boarded over during winter to protect them. The panorama from the upper platform over the lake, and up the valley towards the Simplon, is beautiful. The Villa (50 c.) contains a Gal- lery of Pictures, amongst which are a Head of St. John Bapt., by Procac- cini; a small Virgin and Child with SS. John B. and Giustina, bearing the forged signature of Bernardino Buttinone, probably by Gregorio Schiavoni ; a. Madonna by Gaud. Fer- rari; and two portraits by that rare Milanese painter, Boltrafio. Else- where are 50 landscapes by Tempesta, who found a shelter here when obliged to conceal himself for his mis- deeds, and several paintings by Zuc- carelli, views of the different pos- sessions of the family. In the Chapel are three *monuments of the Borromeo family, removed from S. Pietro in Gessate at Milan at the time ol the Cisalpine republic. One, over the altar, was intended to contain the relics of St. Giustina, an ancestress of the family ; another, that of Giovanni Borromeo, is admirable for effect, and the infinite details are marvellously ■worked out ; both are probably by Omodeo (Perkins), and executed about 1490. A third, with reliefs of the Agony, Flagellation, and a war- rior marching in triumph, is by Bambaja (1512). The unfinished building which separates the wings of the palace was intended for a great central hall and staircase, but has never been covered in. On the ground- floor is a series of grotto chambers, ornamented with statues, a model of the palace, &c. The Isola Madre (1 fr.), lying N.N.E. towards Pallanza, being less shaded by mountains from the sun, enjoys a milder climate in winter. The consequence is that it abounds in rare conifers, and other trees of S. countries. The plants of New Hol- land grow luxuriantly out of doors; the two species of tea are generally in llower in October. The Chilian and Brazilian araucarias and our Hima- laya pines attain a great size, as well as the Japanese wax-plant. On the island are many pheasants, here allowed to run wild, from their ina- bility by flight to gain the opposite shores. Near the large abandoned Villa is a sepulchral chapel, erected to contain the remains of the Borromeo family. It has some relics of St. Charles. fBaveno (W.) occupies a lovely situation opposite the Borromean Islands, about* 2 m. N.W. of the Isola Bella. The Villa Collegno, Villa Durazzo, and *Villa Clara, are hand- some residences. The latter belongs to Mr. Henfrey, and was inhabited in the spring of 1879 by Queen Victoria. The grounds command some of the finest views over the lake and islands, and within them is an elegant octa- gonal English Church, built in the Lombard style by the late Mr. Pullan, and richly decorated with marbles. Open to travellers on Sunday ; resi- dent Chaplain. Boats with awnings swarm along the shore. To Isola Bella is a row of 20 min. Fixed tariff. For the ascent of *Monte Motterondf' highly recommended, see Rte. 45. Omn. to (4 m.) Gravellona, for the Simplon (Rte. 31). t Denotes landing-places of the steamers. Route 47. — Pallanza — Ascona. 115 The Steamer now steers across the lake, sometimes avoiding Suna, to fPallanza (W.), residence of the sub- prefect (4000) ; a very sunny spot, and therefore pleasant in winter, but the situation and views are not so good as at Baveno. It contains a large model prison for male convicts. There is a nursery-garden of local celebrity near the town, and a Roman monument embedded in the church wall. Close to the promontory is the Isola San Giovanni, the smallest of the Borromean Islands. From Pallanza to (8 m.) Gravellona, Omn. several times a day, passing near the pretty lake of Mergozzo and the granite quarries of Montorfano, both worthy of a visit. It was from these quarries that the magnificent columns in San Paolo fuori le mura, at Rome, were derived. From Pal- lanza to Intra is a pretty walk over the peninsula (5 hr.). Thence N.W. to (I hr.) Trohaso (on the 1. rises Monte Basso), and W. across the S. Bernar- dino torrent to (5 hr.) Santino, where there is an old Roman bridge. Back S.E. through Suna on the Lake to (1 hr.) Pallanza. The steamer now rounds the point, behind which is flntra (W.), a thriving town (6000), at the mouth of the Val Intragna. Here are manufactories of iron, cotton, and glass, and large works for wind- ing silk from the cocoons, the motive power being supplied by the torrent of San Giovanni. Beautiful gardens surround the F. Franzosmi and V. Ada, both to the N. 3 m. along the shore, towards Locarno, is Ghiffa. 4 m. N. of Intra is Bee (1935 ft.), and 3 m. further Premeno (2215 ft.), in a fine situation. From Intra the Steamer crosses the lake S.E. to tlaveno (E.) a Rly. Stat, between Luino and Novara (Rte. 14). Close to the landing-place is another Stat, of the line to Varese and Saronno (Rte. 35). E. rises the Sasso di Ferro (3490 ft.), on whose slopes is the t Denotes landing-places of the steamers. (2 hrs.) Church of Santa Catarina, a favourite excursion. Magnificent *view. The lake is now re-crossed to Ghiffa, nearly opposite to Porto, near which are extensive lime works. Thence to tOggebbio (W.), beyond which is a villa built by the late Massimo Azeglio. Near the Shore, beyond tCannero (W.), are seen two little islands, fiefs of the Borromeo family ; upon one of them is a ruined strong- hold, which in the 15th cent, was held by the robber brothers Mazzarda, locally celebrated for their marauding expeditions. tLuino (E.), an international Rly. Stat, on the line to Novara (Rte. 14), and to Bellinzona (Rte. 39). A Rly. also runs E, to Ponte Tresa for Lugano (Rte. 40). On the same side of the Lake is tMaccagno (Rly. Stat.); 2 hrs. N. is the Lago Delio (2950 ft.); fine *view. fCannobbio (W.), at the entrance of the Val Cannobbino, has a domed Church, said to be from the designs of Bramante, with a fine *Bearing of the Cross, by Gaud. Ferrari. § hr. up the Valley is the hydropathic esta- blishment of La Salute; and 20 min. further is the Orrido, a rocky chasm. fBrissago (W.), a pretty spot in the Swiss portion of the lake. Some old cypresses surround its Church on the side of the hill. Ascona (W.), an ancient town, with an old Town Hall, a Seminary, and the remains of two mediaeval castles. In the Church of the Seminary is a Virgin with Saints and donors, by Giov. Ant. di Lagaia (1519). Some of the Steamers now cross to Maga- dino (E), a poor place in the Delta of the Ticino, where it empties itself into the lake, and hence unhealthy I 2 116 Boute 47. — Lc in summer and autumn. Rly. to BelUnzona (Rte. 39). Others describe a wide semicircle round the delta of the Maggia to reach fLocarno (W.), at the mouth of the Maggia, -which here runs into the Lago Maggiore, and has formed a large flat promontory. Locarno (G8o ft.) is one of the three capitals of the Swiss can- ton of Tessin, the others being Lugano and Bellinzona. It is a thriving place (3000), being one of the principal entrepots for merchandise between Switzerland and N.W. Italy, and is surrounded by luxiiriant vegetation. There are remains of an old castle. The *Madomia del Sasso (1170 ft.), ^ hr. above the town, is best approached by a shaded path bearing rt. at the entrance to a Calvary ; the panorama from the portico is magnificent, espe- cially the view up the valley of the Ticino. Here are some paintings f Denotes landing-places of the steamers. arno —Bignasco. attributed to B. Luini, and a Flight into Egypt, by Bramantino. 10 min. higher up is the Monte della Trinita, from which the view is more extensive. The Church of >S. Antonio, in the town, was in 1863 the scene of a frightful calamity, by the falling-in of the roof from the weight of the snow upon it during divine service, when 47 persons perished. Charming walk to (| hr. X.W.) Ponte Brolla, a stone bridge 800 ft. above the Maggia. Higher up the valley are the fine Waterfalls of Poz- zasca, Cocjlio, and Soladino. 17 m. from Locarno, up the same Valley, is Bignasco (1425 ft.), picturesquely situ- ated, and a good centre for excusions. For the Alpine routes in the neigh- bourhood, see Handbook Jor Switzer- land. Rly. E. to Cadenazzo for Bellinzona (Rte. 39), and thence by the St. Gotthard Rly. to Lucerne (Rte. 32). ( 117 ) PA.ET III. EASTERN LOMBARDY. LIST OF KOUTE PAGE 51. Lecco to Milan, by Monza . 117 52. Seregno to Bergamo . . .161 53. Milan to Verona, by Tre- viglio and Brescia . . .166 54. Milan to Genoa, by the Certosa, Pavia, andNovi . 180 55. Pavia to Alessandria . . 191 ROUTES. KOUTE PAGE 56. Yercelli to Pavia, by Mor- tara 191 57. Pavia to Monselice, by Cre- mona, Mantua, and Este . 192 58. Brescia to Lecco, by Ber- gamo 208 59. Treviglio to Cremona, by Crema 209 60. Piacenza to Bettola . . .210 ROUTES. ROUTE 51. LECCO TO MILAN, BY MONZA. Allies stations. Routes Lecco ... 38 4 Calolzio .... 58 11 Olgiate Molgora 13 Cernusco Merate 17 Usmate .... 52 20 Arcore 24 Monza .... 32 28 Sesto S. Giovanni 32 Milan 2,18,32,54,101 Lecco is described in Rte. 42. The Rly. runs generally close to the Stracla militare, a continuation of the great military road made by the Austrian Government across the Stel- vio, and descends the 1. bank of the Adda, which expands into the narrow Lakes of Garlate and Olginate. At 4 m. Calolzio Junct. the Rly. to Bergamo (Kte. 58) continues S.E., while our line turns S., crossing the Adda on an iron bridge. A tunnel leads to 11m. Olgiate Molgora, whence the hills are skirted to 13 m. Cernusco Merate. IJ hr. N.W. stands • the Church of Monte- vecchia, commanding a fine view. 1 hr. W. of it lies Missaglia, whence a carriage-road of 5 m. leads back to the Stat. 2 m. W. is Monticello. 17 m. Usmate Junct. for Bergamo (Rte. 52). Omn. to (4 m.) Monticello, a favourite summer resort on high ground, affording beautiful views. 20 m. Arcore, with a fine villa be- longing to the d'Adda family. The chapel near the park gate is an elegant 118 Boute 51. — Monza : Treasury. modern building in the cinquecento style : in it is a handsome monument to a young Countess d'Adda, by Vela, and a fine Madonna over the altar by the same. 24 m. Monza Junct., where the St. Gotthard line falls in (Rte. 32). [From Lecco to Milan by road through the Brianza is a pleasant drive of about 5 hrs. Monticello is a good halfway-house. The lake is crossed to Santa, where the road strikes south, passing through Salaand Rossa by the Lago d'A.nnone, then by a long ascent to Oggiono, with fine views N. of lake and mountain, through Barzano, and in the midst of lovely scenery to Monticello. Not far from Monticello the scenery falls off, and by the time Monza is reached, is uninteresting.] Monza (16,000), the ancient Modce- tia, is divided into two nearly equal parts by the Lambro. Leaving the Stat., we pass on the rt., in the main street, the Church of Santa Maria in Istrada, remarkable for its very elabo- rate W. front in terra-cotta, and fine wheel-window. Further on is the Broletto, or Town-hall, attributed to Frederick Barbarossa. It is of Italian Gothic, with a Binghiera between two handsome windows on the S. side. Annexed to it is a fine and lofty Campanile, with forked battlements. The *Cathedral stands on the spot where Theodolinda erected, in 595, a temple in honour of St. John the Baptist. At the close of the 13th cent. Matteo Magno Visconti, Lord of Milan, employed Matteo da Campione to re- construct the Church upon a larger scale ; but the front was not com- menced till 139G, the year of the architect's death. " It is a curious specimen of the cahinet style pre- valent in Italy at that period ; a style Avhich attempts to please the eye rather by a subdivision of parts, and a variety of patterns, in marble of dif- ferent shapes and colours, than by the form of the building itself." — G. Knight. The wheel-window, set in a square framework of panels, is very beautiful. Over the central door is a curious relief of Theodolinda ofi'ering her gifts ; below it, the Baptism of Christ. The Nave has double aisles, the outer ones being entirely modernized. The main columns have curiously carved capitals, and belonged to an earlier building. The Paliotto, or altar front, of silver-gilt (10th cent.), is entirely covered with Scripture histories, in- laid with enamel and coarse gems. The Cantoria, or gallery for the singers, on the N. side of the nave, is of rich Gothic work. Deserving of notice also is the woodwork of the choir. In a Courtyard to the N., formerly a cemetery, is buried Ettore Visconti (a natural son of Bernabb), who became for a short time one of the leaders of Milan. Expelled by Duke Filippo Maria, he seized the castle of Monza, where a shot from a springall broke his leg, an injury of which he died (1413). Theodolinda, whose memory, like Bertha's in Switzerland and Eliza- beth's in England, was cherished by the people beyond that of any male sovereign, Charlemagne himself scarce- ly excepted, and whose beauty, wis- dom, and piety were all equally transcendent, was the daughter of Garibold, King of the Bavarians, and became the wife of Autharis, King of the Lombards (589). Upon the death of Autharis, which happened six years after their marriage, the Lombards offered the crown to Theodolinda, with the intimation that whomsoever she would select for her husband they would acknowledge as their sovereign. She chose Agelulphus (sometimes called Astolf), Duke of Turin. Valiant and ambitious, he contemplated becom- ing master of Kome ; but Theodolinda diverted him from this enterprise. She thus earned the gratitude and the friendship of Pope Gregory the Great,^' who dedicated his Dialogues to her. The *TKEASURY(Fee,5 fr., including the Iron Crown), is one of the most Houte 51, — Monza: Treasury, 119 curious of mediaeval museums. It has been much plundered, especially during the republican rule at the end of the last century. The following are some of the more remarkable objects •which it still contains : — Theodolinda' s Fan, or flabelluni, of painted leather, •with a massive metallic enamelled handle. Her Comh, ornamented with gold filigree and emeralds. Her Crown, a plain diadem set with coarse gems. TlieodoUndcC s Hen and Chickens^ a tray of silver gilt, upon which are figures of the Chioccia, or Chucky, and her seven chickens. The hen's eyes are of rubies. It is said by antiquaries to typify either the arch-priest and chapter of the church of Monza, or the seven provinces of the Lombard kingdom. The list of relics sent by Pope Gregory the Great to Theodolinda, written in Greek upon papyrus : some say it is his autograph. The antiquary Mafi"ei calls this the " king of papyri." One of these relics consists of drops of oil taken from the lamps burning before the tombs of the martyrs in the cata- combs. Apb. AriberVs Evangelistarium or Gospel-hook. The binding is of gold and silver gilt, rudely set with rough stones, glass placed over coloured foil, and fine ancient cameos, character- istic of the age of transition from the Eoman to mediaeval times. A Cross, given to the Queen by the Pope at the baptism of her eldest child, and worn by the arch-priest on great occasions. The front is of rock crystal ; the back is worked in gold filigree. Theodo- linda's cup, said to be hollowed out of a solid sapphire. It is about 3 in. in diameter. The colour of the material (probably very fine glass, like the catino of Genoa) is exceedingly rich. The Gothic setting bears the date of 1490. The Cross, or pectoral, employed in the coronation of the kings of Italy, to hang round the neck of the sovereign, is massive, and richly decorated — not merely with uncut stones, but with ancient engraved gems ; an amethyst, representing Diana, is of excellent workmanship. The Sacramentary of Berengarius. The coverings of this book are of pierced ivory, plates of gold placed beneath shiningbetween the interstices. On one side are scrolls interlaced, springing from birds ; on the other are Kunic knots, elal3orately inter- laced, springing from a central orna- ment composed of four grotesque animals, from whose mouths the root of each knot is seen to issue. These singular carvings are probably Teu- tonic; for, excepting a greater deli- cacy in the workmanship, they are exactly such as are found upon Scan- dinavian monuments. The services which the book contains stand as they were composed by Pope Gregory ; and in it may be found the Collects of our own Liturgy. Another very curious volume is the Evangelistarium of Aribert or Heri- bert, Abp. of Milan (1018-1045). Three ivory diptychs, of much better workmanship than is usually the case with sculptures of this description. The first and most curious represents, on one leaf, a poet or a philosopher in his study ; on the other a muse strik- ing the lyre with the plectrum. The whole is finely carved. Claudian and Ausonius are both candidates for the portrait. Antiquaries give it to Boe- thius, upon conjecture. The second represents two figures in consular robes, -with the Eoman eagle and other insignia. The original names have been effaced, and those of Pope Gre- gory and David substituted. The third is remarkable for the boldness of the relief. The principal figures are an emperor with the paludamentum, and a female in rich attire. Here also is preserved the celebrated *Iron Ckown, carried off to Mantua by the Austrians on their expulsion from Lombardy, in May, 1859, but afterwards returned. The thin ribbon or fillet of iron which lined the diadem, and from which the crown derived its name, is said to have been hammered from one of the nails employed at the Crucifixion ; and hence the crown is also called II sacro Chiodo. The Church of Milan opposed the tradi- 120 Boute 51. — Monza — Milan. tion ; but their objections were over- come by the congregation " of the Eites " at Home, by -whom it was pronounced authentic. The tradi- tions of Monza relate that this crown was given by Gregory the Great to Queen Theodolinda ; 'yet notliing is really known respecting its origin, nor was it regularly used in the corona- tion of the kings of Italy. It was first worn by Henry VII. (or Henry of Luxemburg) in 1311. The crown was carried for that purpose to Milan, in spite of the remonstrances of the inhabitants of Monza. Charles V. was the last of the later emperors crowned with it ; and the crown re- mained quietly as a relic in the Tesoro, until Napoleon, anxious to connect his dignity with the recollec- tions of the past, placed it with his own hands upon his head, disdaining to receive it from the Bishop, with the words, Dieu me la donne, gare a qui la fouche. It has been since used at the Coronation of the two last Emperors of Austria. A curious relief in the S. transept represents the coronation of an Em- peror, probably Rudolph of Hapsburg, in 1296. The seventh Elector, the King of Bohemia, is absent, and this shows that the relief is earlier than 1290, when he was admitted into the Elec- toral College. It Avill be noticed that the crown which the Arch-priest of Monza is here represented to place on the head of the Emperor is not the Iron Crown, but one decorated with fleurons. This relief seems, from its inscription, to have been put up by the people of Monza as a memorial of their right to have the coronation per- formed here, in preference to Milan. The chapel at the end of the N. aisle contains the plain altar-tomb of Queen Theodolinda, and some curious fres- coes, representing events in her life, by Trosi of Monza (1444). The Royal Palace is an extensive edifice, surrounded by a large Park, which abounds in game. Near the house is the GianUno Inglese, well laid-out, with lawns, shrubberies, and water. The Gardens are rich in exotic plants. Monza was in former times the country residence of the Viceroy, and is now a favourite autumn retreat of the royal family. Besides the Rly., there is a Steam Tramway between Monza and the Corso Venezia at Milan several times a day in 1^ hr. The Rly. proceeds to 28 m. Sesto, in a very fertile plain, with many country seats around. 36 m. Milan Junct. (Buffet). PLAN FOR VISITING THE PRINCIPAL SIGHTS OF MILAN IN 3 DAYS. 1st day. — DrOMO ; Royal Palace ; Galleria Vittorio Emanuele; Piazza della Scala; Brera Gallery, Library, and other Collections ; S. Marco ; S. Simpliciano ; Arco della Pace ; Cas- tello ; Campo Santo. 2nd day. — San Carlo ; Piazza dei Tribunali ; S. Maurizio Maggiore ; Sta. INIaria delle Grazie ; S. Vittore ; S. Ambrogio ; Piazza Borromeo ; Am- brosian Library ; S. Giorgio ; S. Satiro; S. Alessandro. Srd day. — S. Lorenzo and S. Eus- torgio ; Porta Ticinese; Madonna di S. Celso, S. Paolo, S. Eufemia, and S. Nazaro; Great Hospital; S. Stefano, S. Bernardino, S. Pietro in Gessate, Sta. Maria della Passione ; Giardino Pubblico; Museo Civico, and Museo Artistico Municipale ; Piazza Cavour ; Via Alessandro Manzoni ; Museo Poldi- Pezzoli ; Piazza Belgiojoso ; Via de' Omeuoni ; S. Fedele ; Palazzo INlarino. ]S-,B.— The Galleries of the Brera and Sta. Maria delle Grazie close at 4 P.M. The following summary of objects with their position may be useful to the hurried traveller : — At the Centre of the C/f?/.— ♦*Cathe- dral ; Royal 'Palace; *Ospedala^' Grande ; San Nazaro ; Ambrosiau Library ; Piazza dei Mercanti ; ♦Gal- leria Vittorio Emanuele ; Piazza della Scala, with L. da Vinci's monument ; •«1ia^Lv«.-p3 O mmm Itoute 51. — Milan. 121 Piazza San Pedele, with Palazzo Marino, Museo Poldi-Pezzoli. North- West. — **Brera, with picture gallery, archseological museum, &c. ; Piazza d' Arrai ; Castello ; Arena ; Arco della Pace. West and South-West.—*Sa.n Mau- rizio Maggiore (Luini's frescoes) ; S. Maria delle Grazie, with *L. da Vinci's Last Supper ; S. Vittore ; *S. Am- brogio ; *San Lorenzo ; S. Eustorgio. North-East.— Ssin Carlo ; *Public Gardens ; Museo Civico (Natural His- tory Museum) ; Museo Artistico Muni- cipale ; Cavour's monument. MILAN. PAGE Antiquities, Museum of 151 Archives Arcivescovado 146 Arco della Pace 124 Arena 125 Bastioni 123 Biblioteca Ambrosiana 152 (Brera) 147 Borsa 147 Botanical Garden. ... ... 147 Brera 147 Campo Santo 123 CasaPonti 158 Casino 160 Cassa di Eisparmio 147 Castello 124 Cathari, The 146 Cathedral 126 Cavour, Monument to 126, 147 Cemetery 160 Cenacolo of L. da Vinci 140 Churches : — S. Alessandro 132 S. Ambrogio 1 33 S. Antonio 135 St. Aquilinus (Chapel) 13S S. Babila 135 S. Bernardino 136 S. Carlo 136 S. Celso 136 S. Eufemia 136 S. Eustorgio 136 S. Fedele 137 S. Giorgio , . 137 S. Giovanni 138 S. Gottardo 138 S. Lorenzo 138 S. Marco 139 S. Maria del Carmine 139 S. M. deila Passione 142 S. M. delle Grazie 140 S. M. Podone 126 S. M. presso S. Celso 139 S. Maurizio 142 S. Nazaro 143 S. Paolo 143 S. Pietro 144 S. Satire .144 PAGE Churches :— S. Simpliciano 144 S. Sepolcro 144 S. Stefano . . . , 145 S. Vittore 145 Clubs 160 Colonne di San Lorenzo 138 Exchange 125 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele .... 125 di Cristoforis ...... 126 Gates 123 Gateway near the Scala 159 Giardini Pubblici 126 Hospitals 157 Law Courts 126 Lazaretto, site of the 158 Leone di Porta Orientale 126 Library, Ambrosian J 53 Brera 152 Loggia degli Osii 146 Macello 160 Mediolanum, derivation of .... 146 Mentana Memorial 126 Milliner, derivation of 122 Municipio 125 Museo Archeologico 151 —Artistico .... . . 126, 156 Civico 126, 156 Poldi-Pezzoli 156 Natural History Museum 121 Observatory 152 Olona river 123 Omenoni 159 Ospedale Maggiore 157 Ospizio Trivulzi 158 Palazzo Arcivescovado 146 Bagatti Valsecchi 147 Belgiojoso 158 Borromeo . . 158 Busca-Serbelloni 158 Ciani 159 degli Archivi 146 del Broletto 146 della Citta 147 della Eagione 146 del Senato 159 — Giuliani 126 Litta 158 Marino 147 Melzi 158 Pozzi 159 Beale 145 Sormani 159 Trivulzi 159 Piazza d'Armi 124 Picture Galleries „ . . 147 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 152 (Brera) 147 Poldi Pezzoli (Museum) 156 Porta Nuova 123 Public Gardens 125 Hiding School 124 Royal I'alace 145 Savings Bank 159 Scala Theatre 159 Scuola Palatina . , 147 Slaughter House 160 Specola di Brera 152 State Archives 125 Statue of Beccaria 126, 147 A 11 1 1. AM loL- Miij-rav's Hu/idbooli. Hotels 1 De, LauiriBje^ F. &. 6. 2 CtfnJtirxjgnJjah E 5 3 Gran Breta^noy I). 6. 4 MiLmo E.5. 5 Europa E.5. 6 6 Cayour F. 4 . Scale ^ '. i .^^ 'S^ ^,^^ ns^ .,i^. Hoiite 51. — Milan. 12J1 Piazza San Fedele, with Palazzo Marino, Museo Poldi-Pezzoli. North-West — **Brera, with picture gallery, arehseological museum, &c. ; Piazza d' Arrai ; Castello ; Arena ; Arco della Pace. West and South-WesL—*Sa.n Mau- rizio Maggiore (Luini's frescoes) ; S. Maria delle Grazie, with *L. da Vinci's Last Supper ; S. Vittore ; *S. Am- brogio ; *San Lorenzo ; S. Eustorgio. North-East.—Ssin Carlo ; *Public Gardens ; Museo Civico (Natural His- tory Museum) ; Museo Artistico Muni- cipale ; Cavour's monument. MILAN. PAGE Antiquities, Museum of 151 Archiives Arcivescovado 146 Arco della Pace 124 Arena 125 Bastioni 123 Biblioteca Ambrosiana 152 (Brera) 147 Borsa 147 Botanical Garden. ... ... 147 Brera 147 Campo Santo 123 Casa Ponti 158 Casino 160 Cassa di Eisparmio 147 Castello 124 Cathari, The 146 Cathedral 126 Cavour, Monument to 126, 147 Cemetery 160 Cenacolo of L. da Yinci 140 Churches : — S. Alessandro 132 S. Ambrogio 133 S. Antonio 135 St. Aquilinus (Chapel) 138 S. Babila 135 S. Bernardino 136 S. Carlo 136 S. Celso 136 S. Eufemia 136 S. Eustorgio 136 S. Fedele 137 S. Giorgio . , 137 S. Giovanni 138 S. Gottardo 138 S. Lorenzo 138 S. Marco 139 S. Maria del Carmine 139 S. M. della Passione 142 S. M. delle Grazie 140 S. M. Podone 126 S. M. presso S. Celso 139 S. Maurizio 142 S. Nazaro 143 S. Paolo 143 S. Pletro 144 S. Satiro 144 PAGE Churches : — S. Simpliciano 144 S, Sepolcro 144 S, Stefano . . . , 145 S. Vittore 145 Clubs 160 Colonne di San Lorenzo 138 Exchange 125 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele .... 125 di Cristoforis ...... 126 Gates 123 Gateway near the Scala 159 Giardini Pubblici 126 Hospitals 157 Law Courts 126 Lazaretto, site of the 158 Leone di Porta Orientale 126 Library, Ambrosiau J 53 Brera 152 Loggia degli Osii 146 Macello 160 Mediolanum, derivation of .... 146 ^lentana Memorial 126 Milliner, derivation of 122 Municipio 125 Museo Archeologico 151 Artistico ....... 126, 156 Civico 126, 156 -Poldi-Pezzoli 156 Natural History Museum 121 Observatory 152 Olona river 123 Omenoni 159 Ospedale IMaggiore 157 Ospizio Tri%nilzi 158 Palazzo Arcivescovado 146 Bagatti Valsecchi 147 Belgiojoso 158 Borromeo . . 158 Busca-Serbelloni 158 Ciani 159 degli Archivi 146 del Broletto 146 della Citta 147 della Eagione 146 del Senato 159 Giuliani 126 Litta 158 Marino 147 Melzi 158 Pozzi 159 Keale 145 Sormani 159 Trivulzi 159 Piazza d'Armi 124 Picture Galleries 147 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 152 (Brera) 147 Poldi Pezzoli (Museum) 156 Porta Nuova 123 Public Gardens 125 Riding School 124 Royal I'alace 145 Savings Bank 159 Scala Theatre 159 Scuola Palatina 147 Slaughter House 160 Specola di Brera 152 State Archives 125 Statue of Beccaria 126, 147 122 Boiite 51. — Milan, PAGE Statncof Card. FedcrlgoBoTTomeo . . 126 Cavoiir 126 Leonardo da Vinci .... 125 Manzoni 125 Napoleon 1 147 Napoleon III 125 S. Carlo Borromeo .... 126 Strada di Circonvallazione 123 Telegraph Office 125 Theatres 139 Town Hall 147 Villa Keale 146 Milan (390 ft.), the capital of Lom- bardy (Pop., including suburbs, 400,000), was founded by the Insubi-ian Gauls. It was taken by the Romans B.C. 222 and became, in point of splendour, the second city of Italy, filled with temples, baths, theatres, statues, and all the structures required for the dignity and luxury of a great capital. Ausonius, w'ho flourished under the Emperor Gratian, towards the end of the 4th cent., assigns to it the rank of the sixth city in the empire. Procopius, a century later, speaks of Medlolanum as inferior only to Rome in population and extent. Its ancient edifices and monuments have all dis- appeared, save one portico (San Lorenzo) ; a column (Sanf Am- brogio) ; a piece of massive wall, forming part of the Monasterio Maggiore ; and a few fragments of sculpture, including two rather dubious heads called Quintus and Rufus, on a wall near the Porta Nuova. The paucity of Roman remains at Milan must be attributed to the cala- mities which the city has sustained, having been 46 times besieged. It was sacked by Attila, a.d. 452. But the great destruction was efiected after the surrender of Milan to the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa in 1162, when he razed it to the ground. On Palm Sunday, in that fatal year when the Emperor departed in triumph for Pavia, the site of the great city was marked only by a few churches left standing in the midst of ruins. The inhabitants being dispersed in four adjoining villages, the name of Milan was efi'aced from the Lombard community. But this event was followed by the great Lombard league, the confederacy against the imperial authority ; and in the parliament, held {at Pontida in 1167, the deputies of the combined cities determined to bring back the Milanese to their ancient seat, which was effected on the 27th April, 1167, and the city speedily rose again. About eighty years after the re- building of the city commenced the rule of the family of Delia Torre, by the election of Pagano, lord of Val Assina, as protector ; and then fol- lowed that of the Visconti and Sforza. During the latter part of this period Milan attained a state of great pro- sperity, and when Lodovico il Moro made himself ruler in 1476, Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci were attracted to his service, and it also became cele- brated for its manufactures of armour, dress, and ornaments. Milan then set the fashions to the rest of Europe ; hence the word mil- liner. After the extinction of the family of Sforza, Milan fell, in 1535, under the power of the Emperor Charles V., who, in 1549, fixed the succession to the duchy of Milan in his son Philip II. It remained under the government of the Spaniards until the death of the last king of Spain of the Austrian line, when it became an object of contention be- tween France and Austria, and was finally given to the latter by the treaty of Utrecht in 1713. In the hands of Austria it remained, until May, 1859, with a few interruptions, the princi- pal of which were the occupation of Milan by the French, in 1733, 1745, 1796 and 1800, and the establishment down to 1815, of the kingdom of Italy, of which Milan was made the capital. The extent of Milan, when it was rebuilt after its destruction by Fre-' derick Barbarossa, is marked by the 'I canal, which, entering on the N. siilfe, runs nearly round the central part of i the modern city. Some of the gates <■ of this first line of fortifications are ; preserved — the Porta Nuova and J Boute 51. — Milan ; City Gates. 123 Porta Ticinese. The Bastioni, which now encircle Milan, except on that side which was protected by the Castle, were built by the Spaniards in 1555. A portion of the ground be- tween this wall and the canal is occu- pied by gardens. All round, just out- side this wall, runs the Strada di Circonvallazione. The circuit of the modern city is about 8 m. The small river Olona on which it is situated is made available for com- merce by being connected with three canals, the Naviglio Grande, drawn from the Ticino, the Naviglio di Pavia, extending to the Po, and the Naviglio della Martesana, which is derived from the Adda and was con- structed in 1481 under Francesco Sforza. The city has none of the picturesque beauty of other Lombard towns. The summer heat is intense, and the cold in winter often severe. CITY GATES. Milan has 14 gates. On the N. side is the Porta Garibaldi, erected in 1826-28 by the merchants. A short distance N.W., outside the Porta Volta, is the *Campo Santo, or Cimitero monumentale (C 1). Further E. is the Porta Nuova (E. 3), built by Zanoia in 1810. The ancient Porta Nuova of the mediaeval city (1171), near the entrance to the Public Gardens, has been restored ; it consists of two arches ; some Roman reliefs and inscriptions belonging to the gate erected by the Eomans near this spot are let into its walls. The Porta Principe Umberto (F. 3) was opened in 1865, cutting through the city rampart in order to form a more direct communication with the Ely. Stat. The public drive or boulevard is carried over it on an iron viaduct. The Porta Venezia (G. 4) was re- built in 1828 from a design of Van- tini, architect of the Campo Santo at Brescia. The 8 reliefs and statues were placed here in 1833. Concord and Justice are by Marchesi. The Porta Romana (F. 8) was built by the Milanese, from a de- sign of Bassi, in 1598, to welcome the arrival of Margaret of Austria, wife of Philip III. of Spain. Just within the gate is the ancient em- porium for merchandise coming from Cremona and Piacenza. Half-way up the Corso at the bridge near San Nazaro stood, until 1810, the old Porta Eomana, erected in 1171 to commemorate the return of the Milanese to the city after its destruc- tion by Frederick Barbarossa. The reliefs which decorated the gate and illustrated one of the most memorable passages in the chronicles of mediaeval Italy, have been let into the walls of houses (near the bridge) erected on the site of the gate. The Milanese around, on foot and on horseback, are seen proceeding to the re-erected city, with an inscription pointing out that there they are to make their stay. "Fata vetant ultra procedere, stabi- mus ergo." The cities of Cremona, Brixia, and Bergamum are represented by turreted gateways, out of which come forth their allies. — " Fra Giacoba," thus written, bears the banner of Milan. In another part is a figure in a magisterial robe, sur- mounting a strange monster with a huge grinning face and bat's wings, supposed to represent Frederick Bar- barossa. The Porta Vigentina (F. 8) takes its name from the village of Vigentino, which lies on this road. In the centre of the S. Bastione is the Porta Ludovica (D. 8), so called in honour of Ludovico il Moro. The Porta Ticinese (C. 8), leading to Pavia, by which Bonaparte entered after the battle of Marengo, has an Ionic portico built in 1815, from a design of the Marquis Cagnola. The medieval Porta Ticinese, on the borders of the canal, but nearer the centre of the city, was rebuilt in 1861 124 Route 51. — Milan: Arco della Pace. on the original plan. The central arch in marble is ancient. On the side looking to the canal is a mediaeval relief of the Virgin seated between the protecting saints of the city. The suburb of the Porta Ticinese was first surrounded -with a wall by the Visconti, and called Cittadella, a name which remains. The Porta Geneva (C. 7), a modern Gate, leads to the Suburban Stat, for Mortara and Alessandria (Rte. 18). The Porta Magenta (A. 5) was built in great haste, with materials from the Castello, after a design of Canonica, to receive Napoleon when he came to assume the Iron Crown. The Porta Sempione (B. 3, 4) is a Triumphal Arch, forming the entrance of the great road of the Simplon. The Porta Tenaglia (C. 3), leading also to the Simplon road, received its name from a Fort which once stood near it. Between the Porta Tenaglia and the Porta Magenta there is no ram- part, the city having been protected on this side by the Castello. This ancient ducal castle, built by Galeazzo Visconti II. in 1358, to keep the Milanese in subjection, was demo- lished after his death, but rebuilt with increased strength by Gian Galeazzo. On the death of Duke Filippo Maria, the Milanese rose (Aug. 30, 1447), and, having proclaimed the Aurea respuhlica Ambrosiana, destroyed the castle. It was rebuilt in 1452 by Francesco Sforza, for the ornament (he said) of the city and its safety against enemies, and was completed in 1476. In the interior is a keep, where the dukes often resided. Philip II. added extensive modern fortifica- tions, and cut down all the bell-towers which overlooked them. The Castle was taken by the French in 1796, and again in 1800, when Napoleon ordered the fortifications to be razed. It has since been converted into barracks. Of the round towers at the angles, those towards the N. have been replaced by modern brick ones, while the two towards the city, formed of massive granite blocks, remain. During the viceroyalty of Eugene Beauharnais, a Doric gateway of granite, with a portico, or line of arches, now closed, on each side, and in the same style, was erected on the N.W. side ; be- tween each arch is a medallion con- taining the portrait of some illustrious Italian military commander. Only traces remain of the frescoes which originally adorned the building. The modern brick building against the E. wall, with towers and pointed win- dows, is a Riding-School. The space on which it was intended to erect a forum has been converted into a Piazza d'Armi, on the N.W. side of which, outside the Simplon gate, is the Arco della Pace. A triumphal arch having been erected with wood and canvas, in 1806, at the Porta Orientale, now Venezia, from a design of the Marquis Cagnola, upon the marriage of the Viceroy Beauharnais with Princess Amalia of Bavaria, it was so much admired, that the muni- cipal council resolved that it should be executed in white marble, the expense to be defrayed out of the 200,000 francs assigned by Napoleon for adorning the city. It was begun in 1807, but on the fall of the kingdom of Italy in 1814, had not risen above the impost of the smaller arches. The works were resumed in 1816 and completed in 1838, in which year the Arch was inaugurated at the time of the coronation of the Emperor Fer- dinand I. Originally intended to commemorate in its sculptures the victories of Napoleon, it was in the end converted to the glories of the Allied Sovereigns and the Emperor of Austria, and the peace secured for Europe in 1815. The statues, friezes, and i-eliefs are by Pacetti, Monti, Marchesi, and Putti. An inscription records the entry into Milan of JNagfi'' leon III. and Victor Emanuel after the battle of Magenta in 1859. The total cost, including the lodges on each side and the iron railing, was ; Bouie 51. — Milan: Streets, Squares, Public Gardens. 125 142,8392. ; the bronze car and figures on the top 4O,000Z. alone. A staircase leads to the summit (50 c). The Arena, at the corner of the Piazza d'Armi (C. 3), was designed by Canonica, and opened in 1806, but the portico, gateway, and Carceres have been added later (entrance ^ fr.). It is an ellipse of 260 yds. by ISO^yds., and is capable of containing 30,000 spectators. It is surrounded by 10 rows of seats, arranged in the manner of an ancient amphitheatre, and in- tended to be of stone, but for economy made of turf. At one end of the greater diameter are the Carceres, flanked by towers ; at the other a granite triumphal Doric gateway, of good design. At one side of the lesser diameter is a portico of 8 Corin- thian columns of polished granite. The area can be flooded for aquatic exhibitions. In Dec, 1807, there was a regatta in the presence of Napoleon. Baces, balloon ascents, rope-dancing, and fireworks, take place here frequently. In the court-yard of the old Palazzo del Senato (F. 5), which contains the rich and interesting Archives of the State, is a fine ^Equestrian Statue in bronze of the Emp. Napoleon III., by BarzagM, uaised by public sub- scription at a cost of 4000Z. STREETS, SQUARES, PUBLIC GARDENS. Many of the wider streets radiating from the centre of the town are called Corsi, of which the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, containing several of the best shops, runs N.E. from the back of the Cathedral, and is continued by the Corso Venezia to the Porta Venezia. The *Piazza del Duomo is not sur- passed for splendour and attractive- ness in any capital of Europe. It has been enlarged and enclosed by a stately colonnade, and, as the central point of the city, always presents a busy scene. The Cathedral stands in the middle ; on one side is the Royal Palace, and on the opposite (N.) side the entrance to the magnificent *Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, occu- pied by some of the smartest shops and cafes in Milan. This lofty Arcade, a favourite evening promenade, was built by British capitalists in 1867 at a cost of 320,000?., from the designs of Giuseppe Mengoni, who was killed by a fall from the portal in 1877. The plan is a cross, with an octagon, crowned by a cupola 180 ft. high. It is roofed with glass, is decorated with statues of Italian worthies, and ornamented with frescoes. At night it is brilliantly illuminated with electric light. The chief passage, 214 yds. long, leads to the Piazza della Scala, where stands the theatre of that name. In the middle of this square is the colossal marble Statue of Leonardo da Vinci rur)2- 1519), erected in 1872 by P. 3Iagni. The granite pedestal bears marble reliefs of Leonardo's varied artistic accomplishments as painter, sculptor, architect, and engineer. At the base are Statues of his greatest pupils — • Beltraffio, Marco da Oggionno, Cesare da Sesto, and A. Salaino. In this square is the Casa Bramhilla, deco- rated with terra-cotta and moulded brickwork. Close by is the small Piazza S. 'Fedele, with its Church, opposite which stands the Palazzo Marino, designed by Galeazzo Alessi for Tommaso Marino (1555), and now the Mnnicipio (see p. 137). In front of it is a Statue of Manzoni. From the N.W. corner of the Piazza del Duomo, mediaeval Milan is entered by the Piazza de' Mercanti (D. 6) In the middle is the Palazzo degli Archivi, on the S. side the Loggia degli Osii (1315), and on the opposite side the Palazzo della Citta, now occupied by the Exchange and Tele- graph OflBce. To the E. of the Piazza del Duomo is the Piazza Fontana, with a granite fountain, erected in 1870. On one side of it stands the Archbishop's palace. Close by to the N.E. is the 126 Boute 51. — Milan: Churches. small Piazza Beccaria, -with a Statue by Graudi, erected in 1871, of the '^nristlBeccaria (1738-1794). Near at hand are the Law Courts. The Piazza Borromeo (C. D. 6) has a bronze Statue of San Carlo, by Bussola, formerly in the Cordusio ; it stands in front of the small Church of S. M. Fodone, belonging to the Borromei, whose Palace forms two sides of the square. In the Piazza San Sepolcro, in front of the library he founded, is a Statue of Cardinal Federigo Borromeo, by Costi (1865). In the Piazza Cavour (F. 4) a grace- less monument to Cavour was erected in 1865 : the bronze Statue of the great minister is by TahaccM, a Milanese sculptor; that of Clio, the Muse of History, is by Tantardini. In the Piazza Mentana (C. 6) is a monument to the Soldiers who fell in the Battle of 3 Nov. 1867, near Monte Eotondo (Central Italy, Rte. 21). There were formerly many Crosses and similar monuments in the streets and crossways, but most of them have been removed. Of those that remain, the Leone di Porta Orientale, a small column at the end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the principal. It is said to commemorate some vic- tory gained by the Milanese over the Venetians; but the lion is not that of St. Mark. In the Corso is the Gal- leria di Cristoforis, with shops, de- signed by Pizzala, in 1832. The GiARDiNi PuBBLici (F. 4) are agreeably diversified with rivulets, grass-plots, flowers, and clumps of trees, among which some fine standard magnolias are worthy of notice ; early in July they are in bloom. The large Pal. Giuliani on the W. side con- tains the Museo Civico of Natural History. In a building which faces the Porta Venezia have been placed the Collections of the Museo Artistico Municipale. The favourite promenade of the Milanese on winter afternoons, and towards sunset in summer, is the Avenue on the site of the Bastioni, between Porta Venezia and Porta P. Umberto. CHURCHES. **DTJ0M0. — The present building is the second, perhaps the third, re-edifi- cation of the original structure, which St. Ambrose, in his letter to his sister Marcellina, calls the great new Basi- lica. The primitive cathedral was destroyed by Attila. The first stone of the present Cathe- dral was laid by Gian Galeazzo Visconti, in 1387. For an architect, it is commonly said that he had re- course to the freemasons of Germany, and that he obtained the services of Heinrich von Gmiinden. However, Mr. Perkins, after examining the evi- dence upon this point, is of opinion that the first architect was an Italian, Marco da Campwne (1390). He may have studied north of the Alps, or procured the help of Germans. By such an hypothesis, the difference in style between this and other Italian churches of the time might be ac- counted for. Italians were afterwards called in ; amongst others, the cele- brated Brunelleschi of Florence. But Germany still continued to be con- sidered as the school of the architects of the cathedral; and as late as 1486 Gian Galeazzo Sforza addressed letters to the magistrates of Strassburg, re- questing them to send him the master- mason of their Domhirche, Hammerer, for the purpose of advising upon some difficulties in the construction. The building has been often inter- rupted, and the edifice is yet un- finished in some of its details. It is said to have cost 5 millions sterling. The octagon cupola was vaulted by the Omodei, father and son (1490- 1522) ; the three W. bays of the nave were not completed till 1685. The beautiful central Tower and Spire, which crowns it, were completed in 1772, from the designs of Croce ; and the gable and upper range o^ windows of the front, as well as very many of the buttresses and pinnacles, between 1806 (when the works were resumed 'by order of Napoleon) and Boute 51. — Milan : Duomo, 127 the present time. In this long suc- cession of years many of the first artists of Italy, amongst whom may be named Bramante, Leonardo da Vinci, and Giulio Bomano, gave their advice and assistance. It seems that the original designs for the W. front had been long lost, and the portion of the name, as erected, wanted three of its arches. A front of black and white marble, built considerably within the line of the present structure, curtailed the nave by one-third of its just length ; and, as far as this has been raised, it was unfinished, and inelegant. Pelle- grini was employed in 1560 by S. Carlo Borromeo to complete the front, and he furnished an Italian design upon a magnificent scale. S. Carlo died ; Pellegrini was summoned to Spain by Philip II. to paint the Es- curial ; and the work was carried on very leisurely by Castelli and Fran- cesco Bicchino, who altered the designs and gave to the Roman doors and windows that exuberance of ornament which they now exhibit. Some of the architects of Lombardy strongly protested against the admixture of Roman architecture begun by Pelle- grini, and advocated the reconstruc- tion of the W. front in the Pointed style. About 1790 it was determined to carry out this plan, preserving, however, the doors and windows of Pellegrini and Ricchini, on account of their elaborate elegance; and in order to apologise for the discrepancy of the styles, an inscription stating this reason was engraved on the corner buttress of the front. To these works Napoleon gave great impulse, and their continuation was entrusted to a commission, under whom the facade was brought to its present form, chiefly by the insertion of three Gothic windows ; and the greater number of the pinnacles and flying buttresses of the rest of the building were completed. The cost of these undertakings during the French government amounted to about 3J millions of francs. 1^ million of this sum was derived from the sale of the lands belonging to the Duomo, the re- mainder from the property of the sup- pressed monastic institutions. After the revolution of 1848, the supplies were for a time cut off; still a good deal has been done during the Aus- trian occupation. When Amati inserted the Gothic windows, he supported them by bear- ing-arches of granite ; so that, if it should hereafter be thought expedient to remove the Romanised doors and windows, the operation can be per- formed without injury to the super- structure. A project for the carrying out of some sach alteration has recently been entertained by a special Commission of Architects from Eng- land, France, and Germany. In 1888 the projected work was thrown open to competition, and the designs of Gius. Brentano for a new W, front were accepted. When Gian Galeazzo endowed the Duomo, he included in his donations the marble-quarries of La Gandoglia, in the valley of the Tosa, on the Simplon road, and of that material the building is entirely constructed. Time gives to this marble a fine warm yellow tint. In the tracery there is an unusual approximation to the flamboyant style. This was probably owing to the in- fluence of the French Gothic, as it is most apparent in the great E. window, which was built by Campania from the designs of Nicolas Bonaventure of Paris (1591). The excellent sculptures of the central door are by Bono, Castelli, and Vismara (about 1635). The tym- panum contains a relief of Eve. The arabesques in the pilasters are allu- sive to the Days of the Creation, chiefly sculptured by artists from Como. The Roof should by all means be ascended (25 c). A staircase of nearly 200 steps leads from the corner of the S. transept to the roof itself, beyond which there is an ascent of 300 steps to the summit. The cathe- dral is open in summer at 5 a.m., but the best time to enjoy the *magnificent panoramic view is the evening, the 128 Boute 51. — Milan : Duomo. plains being generally covered with mist at an earlier hour. Steps upon the flying buttresses af- ford an ascent to the ^different levels. Two staircases, winding in turrets of open tracery, lead to the platform of the octagon, and a similar staircase in the spire conducts to the gallery, at the foot of the pyramid which crowns it. These turrets were executed hy Antonio Omodei (UdO-Oi). The open tracery was executed by Amici of Cremona. The whole is of exquisite finish. Amongst the statues on the S. side are David and Abigail, St. Helena embracing the Cross, St. Lucia and Judith, St. Athanasius, St. Peter, and the Emp. Constantiue. On the N. side some caryatides supporting an aque- duct, and the Magdalen, held up by four angels The view embraces the plain of Lombardy, studded with cities and villages and church-towers ; the whole walled in, on the N. and E., by the snowy Alps. To the E., in a line with the cupola of S. M. della Passione, is the plain watered by the Lambro, called the Martesana, and beyond are the mountains of I3rescia, which towards the N. are connected with those of the Seriana and Brembana valleys, and with the Resegone, which rises above Lecco, and is distinguished by its serrated form. The lower ridges to the W. of this forms the hilly country of the Brianza, beyond which, and in a line with the Porta Nuova, rises the mountain of San Primo, which stands between the two S. arms of the Lake of Como. To the 1. rise the mountains which encircle the Lakes of Como, Varese, and Lugano, with the snowy peaks about the St. Gotthard beyond. Still farther W., the Simplon is distin- guished, and then ISIonte Rosa. Ex- actly W., Mont Cenis may be seen, and still farther to the 1. the sharp snow-capped pyramid of Monte Viso. Due S. are the Apennines, among which the most remarkable point is the Penice (4825 ft.). Towards the S.K., beyond an insulated group of hills, stretches the vast plain of the Po, with the cities of Lodi, Cremona, and Crema. By ascending to the gallery just before sunrise, the visitor may sometimes enjoy the striking spectacle of the rays of the sun catching successively the snow-clad peaks of the Alps long before the orb itself has appeared on the horizon. Interior. — Mr. Street records his feeling of " delight that anything so magnificent and so perfect should ever have been reared on the southern slopes of the Alps, to exhibit to the eyes, as it were, of enemies the full majesty and power of the pointed architecture of the North. Abso- lutely and without doubt the grandest interior in the world is this noble work. Its grandeur amazes one at first, and delights all the moi*e after- wards, as one becomes on more inti- mate terms with it, and can look at it with less emotion than at first." The ground-plan is a Latin cross, termi- nated by a pentagonal apse. The nave and double aisles are divided by 4 ranges of colossal clustered pillars, with 9 intercolumniations. The tran- septs have single aisles. There is no triforium, and the vaultings of the roof spring at once from the pillars : hence arises an appearance of great loftiness. 52 piers, each formed by a cluster of 8 shafts, support the pointed arches on which the roof rests. The total height of each pillar is 80 ft., the diameter 12 ft., that of the four which support the octagonal cupola is one-fifth greater. The beautiful capi- tals of the nave and choir were de- signed by FiUjypino da Modena, in 1500 ; the lower part is formed by a wreath of foliage, mixed with figures of children and animals, the upper part of each is a canopied niche. The roof is painted to represent an elaborate flamboyant fretwork. The execution is modern, but the design, as well as this mode of ornamenta- tion, is ancient. Its effect is very trivial. The 5 doorways on the inside . were designed by Fahio Magnoni itl^ 1548. Flanking the great doorway are two monoliths of pink Baveno granite, given by San Carlo. (Height Boute 51. — Milan: Churches. 129 35 ft., diameter 3 ft. 10| in. ; total cost 1948Z.). The principal dimensions of the Duomo are as follows : — Eng. ft. Extreme length 486 Breadth 252 Length of transepts 288 Width of the nave, from centre to centre of the columns, which lis double the width of the aisles measured in the same way 63 Height of the crown of the vaulting in the nave from the pavement ... 153 Height from the pavement to the top of the statue of the Madonna, which crowns the spire 355 The pavement is crossed near the W. door by a brass meridian line, laid down by the astronomers of the Brera in 1786. The hole through which the sun shines at noon to measure the length of the line may be seen high up in the vaulting of the 1st chapel rt. Originally all the windows were filled with painted glass. Pellegrini de- signed those in the nave: much glass remains, of extraordinary brilliancy, but a great deal is lost. The restora- tion of the painted windows of the apse has been completed by Milanese artists. The lower ranges contain subjects from the Apocalypse. Parts of the glass, too, in the S. transept, and the W. window, are modern and poor in design. Behind the altar are three gigantic windows, each 76 ft. high, and 30 ft. wide, best seen with the morning sun behind them. The effect of the bril- liant background is much heightened by the dark bronze of the pulpits. Suspended from the vaulting of the octagon over the altar is a reliquary, said to contain one of the nails of the Cross, which annually, on the feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross (3rd May), is exposed upon the altar. Remarkable Objects, beginning from the W. end, on the rt. Granite sarco- phagiis of Abp. Aribert (1045).— Gilded Crucifix (11th cent.). — Recumbent effi- gies, in red Verona marble, of Otto Visconti, Abp. and Signore of Milan (1295); earlier than the foundation of the present building. He left his N. Italy. goods and chattels to the Knights of St. John, who erected this monu- ment. The same tomb, by a singular economy, serves as that of Abp. Gio- vanni Visconti (1354), who also united in his person the temporal and spiritual supremacy of Milan. — Gothic altar- tomb (1394) of Marco Carelli, a bene- factor of the Duomo, by FiliiJ'pino of Modena, with small figures in niches. — Small monument of Giovanni Andrea Vimercati, a canon of the cathedral, with two heads in low relief by Bam- haja (1537-1548). Then follow three altars erected in the time of the Arch- bishops Borromeo. According to the strict Ambrosian rule, there ought, as in the Greek Church, to be only one altar in the cathedral, and the Duomo was planned accordingly. Other altars have been introduced, but there are fewer than usual ; and the chapels are much less prominent than in similar buildings. In the S. Transept is the monu- ment, erected by their brother. Pope Paul IV., to Giacomo (1556) and Gahriele (1531) cle' Medici, the former being the pirate Marquis of Marig- nano, uncle of San Carlo, executed in bronze by Leone Leoni. In the splendid window S.E. of this tomb, the armorial bearings of the deceased are introduced. This Medici, often called il Medichino, was not of the family of the ducal house of Florence, though the armorial bearings are the same. The principal altar in the S. tran- sept has the pilasters of its arch and its archivolt covered with elaborate reliefs by Simonetta, San Pietro, Za- rabatta, Brunetti, Bussola, and others. Further on is the entrance to an underground passage leading to the Archbishop's Palace. Next is the altar of the Presentation of the Vir- gin, by Bamhaja (1510), who has at- tempted a difficult representation of perspective in sculpture. The statue, by Agrate, of St. Bartholomew flayed, has the inscription, Non me Praxi- teles, sed Marcus jinxit Agrates, adoptiJd from an epigram in the Greek An- thology. 130 Boute 51. — Milan: Churches. The large alto-relievo of the Mar- tyrdom of Santa Apollonia is by Ercole Procaccini. The statues of St. Satirus by Cacciatori, and St. Am- brose by Gaetano Monti, were placed here in 1842. Entering the Choir-aisle the elabo- rate Gothic doorway, composed of foliage intermixed with imagery, on the rt., leads to the southern Sacristy. High up is a sitting statue of Pope Martin V. by Jacopino da Tradate, erected by Filippo Maria Visconti, to commemorate the consecration of the high altar by that pontiff in 1421. The black marble tomb of Cardinal Caracciolo, governor of Milan during the Spanish domination (1538), with figures by Bambaja, is striking in its general effect. On the wall beneath the first of the great E. windows is a marble tablet with a monogram of high antiquity, called the Chrismon Sancti Amhrosii, which contains the A and n, besides other symbols. Some suppose it to be a Gnostic monument. Under the cen- tral window, engraved on two black marble tablets, on each side of a dedi- catory inscription to S. Carlo, is a long list of relics of saints preserved in the cathedral. Near this is the sitting statue of Pope Pius IV. (1 •'^59-1 565), hy Angela de Manis, a Sicilian (1560). The ele- gant semi-Gothic bracket which sup- ports it is by Bramhilla. The circuit wall of the choir, to- Tvards the aisles, is covered with re- liefs, representing the history of the Virgin. The subjects are divided into compartments by angels, whose attitudes are finely varied. The chapel of the Holy Sacrament, in the N. transept, contains some fine reliefs, and a Statue of the Madonna, by Buzzi. In front are the slab tombs of Cardinal Federigo Borro- meo, nephew of S. Carlo, of Card. Caccia, and of two archbishops of the Visconti family. The very curious * Candelahrum was presented to the cathedral by the arch-priest Trivul- ;iio, in 1562; but it is probably of much earlier date. The 4 feet are composed of grotesque dragons, with tails turned back on the central stem. Foliage unites the bodies of thr dragons, and little angels are seen contending with demons and wiM creatures ; below are representations of men in torment. 7 ft. from the ground the stem is encircled with foliage, scrolls, and figures of the Virgin, Child, and the procession of the three kings. Two *windows in this transept, filled with numerous small subjects, are among the most beautiful in Italy. In the N, aisle of the nave, the first altar has a picture of St. Ambrose absolving Theodosius, by F. Baroccio ; beyond which is an altar with the Crucifix which was carried about the city, before St. Carlo, during the plague. The two modern statues at the sides are St. Martha, by Caccia- tore, and the Magdalen, by Monti. The next space contains an altar- tomb, erected in 1480, and restored in 1832; it has a good relief by Mar- chesi. Then follow eight red marble statues of saints, with a mediaeval relief of the Virgin and Child, St. Ca- therine, and St. Paul. The Baptistery — a small square temple supported by four marble columns — is by Pelle- grini. It contains an ancient lahrum, from a bath of the lower Empire, used as a font — the Ambrosian ritual re- quiring baptism by immersion. Two of the great pillars supporting the octagonal cupola, on each side of the choir, are encircled by Pulpits, partly of bronze, begun by direction of San Carlo, and completed by his nephew, Cardinal Federigo Borro- meo. These are covei'ed with reliefs by Andrea Pellizone, and rest on co- lossal caryatides, representing (N.) the symbols of the Evangelists, and (S.) the four Doctors of the Church, SS. Gregory, Jerome, Ambrose, and Augustine, bending and spreading forwards to support the superstruc- ture, modelled by Bramhilla, and cast by Busca, * The Choir has richly carved stalls of walnut-wood,with reliefs, representing the history of St. Augustine and St. Ambrose. The organ-cases are rich Boute 51. — Milan : Chnrclies. 131 with gilded carvings and paintings by Figini, Camillo Procaccini, and. Giu- seppe Meda. On the high altar is a magnificent tabernacle of gilt bronze, with figures of the Saviour and the Apostles, by the Salari, the gift of Pius IV. A handsome Gothic candelabrum hangs from the roof of the choir. Beneath the choir is the subterranean church, used as a Winter Choir, from the designs of Pellegrini. W. of it is the *Chapel of San Carlo, rebuilt in 1817, from the designs of Pestagalli, in the form of a lengthened octagon (open daily before 10 a.m.; at other times 1 fr., and for showing the relics 5 fr.). It is lighted by an opening in the pavement above, but not suffi- ciently to allow of the objects in it being seen without the aid of tapers. The walls are covered with eight oval reliefs in silver-gilt, representing the principal events of the life of the saint, viz. — The Birth of San Carlo ; his presiding at the Provincial Coun- cil of Milan (1565), in which canons were enacted virtually protesting against some of the worst abuses of the Roman Church ; San Carlo's dis- tribution to the poor of 40,000 crowns, the proceeds of the sale of his life- interest in the principality of Oria. — San Carlo's administration of the Sa- crament during the great plague. — The attempt made to assassinate him. (San Carlo had laboured to introduce salutary reforms into the order of Umiliati, whose scandalous mode of living had given great offence. Some members of the order conspired to murder him. A priest named Farina was hired to execute the deed. He gained access to his private chapel, and, as San Carlo was kneeling at the altar, fired at him. The bullet struck San Carlo on the back, but dropped harmless on the ground ; and the failure of the attempt was considered as an interposition of Providence. San Carlo continued in prayer, while all around him were in consternation. The assassin escaped for a time, but was ultimately executed, though San Carlo endeavoured to save him.) — The great translation of relics effected by him. — The Death of San Carlo on 4th Nov., 1 584, aged 46 years.— His reception into Paradise. These tab- lets are surrounded by fanciful orna- ments. Thus round a tablet given by the money-changers are cornucopias pouring out money, the coins being real golden florins, pistoles, ducats, &c. Jewels, crosses, rings, and other votive gifts are hung around. The body of the saint is deposited in a gorgeous shrine of silver, the gift of Philip IV. of Spain. The corpse, dressed in full pontificals, is seen through panes of rock-crystal, for the working of which the Milanese artists were celebrated. The skill of em- balmers has not been able to preserve the body from decay. The brown and shrivelled flesh of the mouldering countenance scarcely covers the bone ; the head is all but a skull, and the face, alone uncovered, offers a touch- ing aspect amidst the splendid robes and ornaments in which the figure is shrouded. Upon the sarcophagus, and worked upon the rich tapestry, is repeated in golden letters San Carlo's favourite motto, Humilitas, which long, however, before his time had been borne by the Borromeo family. " Amid the changes and re- volutions of Italy no one has dared to violate the sanctity of his chapel or take away a jewel from among the offerings of his votaries. What the good saint, whose motto was Humi- litas, would have thought of the gold, silver, gems, and crystal lavished upon him, we can all imagine." — Mrs. Jameson. On the anniversary of his death large pictures are suspended between the pillars of the transepts and nave, representing the life and miracles of the Saint. His body may be seen on the eve and festival, and during the octave, when the crypt is open and much resorted to by devotees. The S. *Sacristy contains some objects of interests (adm. 1 fr.), the remains of a much larger collection. An Evangelistarium, the cover richly worked in enamel, a MS. copy of the Gospels, from which the archbishop K 2 182 Boute 61. — Milan: Churches, reads portions on certain great fes- tivals. It was given to the Duomo by Archbishop Aribert in 1018, but is probably of much older date than his time, the workmanship of the enamel appearing to be of the Carlovingian era. A small vessel of ivory, orna- mented with Avhole-length figures, the Virgin and Child, and the Evangelists, placed beneath Lombard arches. It was given by Abp. Godfrey, by whom it was used at the coronation of the Emp. Otho II., a.d. 978. Two diptijchs of the Lower Empire, of good workmanship, representing events in the history of our Lord; Greek in- scriptious, not all correct in their spelling, and one almost inexplicable. Full-length Statues of St. Ambrose and San Carlo in silver. The first was given by the city in 1698, and was the work of Scarpoletti and twenty other goldsmiths. There are small statues of gold in the pastoral stafi", and events in the history of the saint are delineated on his chasuble. The statue of San Carlo was given by the goldsmiths in 1610. Several ?>ks^s of the same material and character, A mitre, said to have been worn by San Carlo during the pestilence. It is embroidered with the brightest fea- thers, and was probably brought from some of the Spanish American con- vents. The statue in marble of the Saviour is by C. Solari. There are also some splendid speci- mens of goldsmiths' work, reliquaries, ostensories, crosses, rings, &c., parti- cularly a Pax, by Caradosso, the gift of Pius IV. It contains many figures ; the principal group represents a De- position from the Cross; the figures are worked with the utmost delicacy. Ambrogio Foppa, nicknamed Cara- dosso, was a Milanese, the contempo- rary of Cellini, and earned the praise of the jealous Tuscan. He was also a die-sinker, in which art he excelled, and an architect. Foppa was not handsome : and a Spanish grandee having in contempt called him " Cara d'Osso," or Bear's Face, he very in- nocently adopted the name, without understanding it, perhaps thinking it u compliment. The Ambrosian rite is almost the only national liturgy in the West which has been spared by the Roman Church, and it is probably much older than the Roman Liturgy. The Rito, or Culto Ambrosiano, is in use through- out the whole of the ancient arch- bishopric of Milan. Several attempts have been made to introduce the Ro- man Service in its place, but they have been foiled by the attachment of the clergy and the people to their ancient rite ; and even in the present age " noi Ambrosiani" is an expression employed with a certain warmth of national feeling. The service is longer ; than the Roman. The Scriptures are not read from the Vulgate, but from the ancient version called the Italica, which preceded that made by St. Jerome. No musical instrument is permitted except the organ ; the melo- dies of modern music are rarely in- troduced, and the monotonous chant maintains its supremacy. There are many minor differences in the cere- monies, which are anxiously retained, extending even to the shape of the censers or turiholi. A species of tunnel connects the Duomo with the Archiepiscopal Palace. Annexed to it is a workshop belonging to the fabric, in which is the model of one of the plans for completing the front of the Duomo. It is so large that a man can stand up in it ; but it is sadly broken and neglected. Accord- ing to this plan the front would have had a noble portal of Gothic arches. Opposite the E. end is the Fahbriceria dtl Duomo, the residence of the digni- taries and officials connected with the Cathedral. S. Alessandro (D. 6) belonged to the Barnabites, by whom it was rebuilt in 1602. It was restored in 1834. There is a large cupola over the nave, and a smaller one at the transept. The interior is rich with decorations and paintings, some of these being by C. Procaccini and D. Crespi . The pulpit- and high altar are rich in marbles and precious stones. The wooden doors and confessionals deserve notice. The Barnabites, in 1723, established here, Boute 61.^ Milan : Churches. 133 in emulation of the Jesuits, a College for noble families. *SANT' AmBROGIO (B, C. 6) was founded by St. Ambrose, when Bp. of Milan, and dedicated by him June 19th, 387, to SS. Gervasius and Pro- tasius, martyrs during the Neronian persecution, a.d. 67. He removed their remains to this basilica after their position had been, according to the tradition, revealed to him in a vision. Posterity has transferred the dedication to the founder. As it now stands, it was built by Abp. Aspertus (about 868-81), and is the most an- cient ecclesiastical structure in Milan. When restored in 1631 by the archi- tect Richini, by order of Cardinal Federigo Borromeo, all its features were preserved with little alteration. The oblong 9th-cent. atrium, beyond which the catechumens were not allowed to pass, is surrounded by arcades, supported by pilasters with half-columns — the sculpture on the capitals of which, animals and runic knots, are good specimens of early Christian art. The five arches of the Lombard front are very characteristic — those above enclosing a gallery which stands over the peristyle. Fragments of frescoes still remain on the walls of the atrium, round which are arranged slab tombs, urns, altars, votive and sepulchral inscriptions, found in 1813, when the pavement of the basilica was taken up and repaired. Two small panels, — one at the top of each of the folding-doors, hidden behind iron-work, and best seen at noon, are said to be part of the gates of the Basilica Portiana, now the Church of San Vittore al Corpo, which St. Ambrose closed against the Em- peror Theodosius after his merciless slaughter of the inhabitants of Thes- salonica in 389. These relics are of cypress-wood, and, though not de- cayed, bear the marks of extreme age. The doors, of wood, are ornamented with foliage and Scripture histories. The general costume and treatment of many of the figures is that of the 15th cent. : they were restored in 1750, when | the two bronze masks of the knockers were added. Over the side doors are rude reliefs (1.) of a martyr between two lions, (rt.) marine monsters. The architecture of the interior was, like the atrium, Lombard. In the 13th cent. Gothic arches were built up under the circular ones which suppoi-t the roof, in order to strengthen them ; but these have been removed during a complete restoration of the church (1870-74), and new round arches of brick have been supplied. The Nave was originally divided on the plan into square portions, each division having two semicir- cular arched openings on each side below, and two above in the gallery, with a vaulting of semicircular groined arches, groinings being added on the roof. The fourth square is covered by the octagonal lantern, which is pro- bably an addition of the 13th cent. The parallel walls of the building continue a little beyond the lantern, and terminate in an ancient apse. On entering, immediately to the rt., is an ancient half-length figure in relief, with shaven head and chin, pallium, and pontifical garments, the right hand raised in the act of giving bene- diction, the left holding an open book on which is written " Sanctus Am- brosius." Beneath it is the sarco- phagus of Bp. Aspertus. Close by is an affected Statue of Pius IX. in white marble. In the 1st recess on the rt., forming a side entrance, are frescoes of the Deposition by Gaudentio Fer- rari, and opposite, under glass, the three Maries, and our Lord bearing the Cross, by B. Luini; the 2nd has over the altar a good kneeling statue of S. Marcellina, by Marchesi ; in the 4th, St. George destroying the Dragon, and the Martyrdom of that Saint, by Lanini, — the vault and arches beauti- fully decorated with flowers, ara- besques, and children. On the wall, under glass, at the end of the rt. aisle, is a triptych (retouched), by an old Lombard painter — the Virgin and Child, with SS. Ambrose and Jerome, and a Virgin and Child, with SS. 134 Boute 51. — Milan: Churchee. Joachim and John B., attributed to Luini. The chapel of San Satire, opening out of the S. aisle, was, in the time of St. Ambrose, the basilica of Fausta, but afterwards received the name of "San Vittore in cielo d'oro," from the mosaic on the ceiling of the dome. The large chapel in front of its en- trance is modern. The restored mo- saics on each side -wall represent Am- brose, Protasius, Gervasius, Felix, Maternus, and Nabor : none are desig- nated as saints or crowned with the nimbus. In the centre is a medallion, supposed to represent St. Victor. They were probablj^ executed not long after the age of St. Ambrose — perhaps in the 5th century. The nimbi and letters are a clumsy addition of a later period. The front of the altar has a curious and early low-relief, ornamented with Greek crosses and scrolls. Beneath the Chapel is a Crypt. The Sacristy contains some fine church plate, including an osten- soriwn, in the form of the handsome campanile of S. Gottardo, given by Azzo Visconti. In the archives of the chapter are several diplomas of the 8th and 9th cents., and a missal, with good miniatures, of 1398 — a gift of Gian Galeazzo; also some beautiful illu- minated choir -books of the 15th and 16th cents., in excellent pre- servation, with highly-finished capi- tals. The Chancel is the most unaltered portion of the edifice. The vaulting is covered with * Mosaic upon a gold groimd — a splendid specimen of the Byzantine style (9th cent,). It repre- sents the Saviour, with SS. Protasius, Gervasius, Satirus, Marcellina and Candida, and the cities of Milan and Tours, in allusion to the legend of St. Ambrose being present at the death of St. Martin without leaving Milan. The inscriptions are partly in Greek, and partly in Latin. In the centre of the choir is the marble Chair of St. Ambrose, decorated with lions at the arms, and simple scrollwork. It is the primitive throne of the Abps. of Milan, on which they sat, according to the ancient practice of the Church, in the midst of the 18 suffragans of the province, whose sees extended from Coire to Genoa. The chairs of the bishops were replaced in the 16th cent, by wooden stalls for the canons, carved in a rich Flemish style. Beneath the choir is a large Crypt modernised by Card. F. Borromeo ; the roof supported by 26 red marble columns with black Doric capitals. Opening into this ci^pt is the sepul- chral chapel of St. Gaudentius. The Baldacchino over the high altar is supported by four columns of red porphyry, said to have come from a temple of Jupiter that stood on the site of S. Maurizio Maggiore. On its front is a ^gilt relief of Christ seated between two kneeling figures, offer- ing to one a book with the inscription Capiat Libkum Sapienti^, to the other two rods with a kind of key, sup- posed to indicate St. Peter. The high altar stands on the spot where St. Au- gustine was baptised by St. Ambrose, and where the Kings of the Lom- bards used to be crowned, including Berengarius, 888 ; Lothair, 931 ; Otho the Great, 961 ; Henry IV., 1081 ; Henry VII. (of Luxemburg), 1311; Lewis the Bavarian, 1327 ; Sigismund, 1431. The *Paliotto, or altar- front, is one of the most remarkable monuments of goldsmith's art of the middle ages, and, except on high festivals, is covered (5 frs.). It was presented by Abp. Angilbertus II. (about 835), and retains the name of its artist, " Wolvinius," who describes himself as " Magister Faber," or Master Smith. The front is of plates of gold ; the back and sides are of silver ; all richly enamelled and set with uncut precious stones. The golden front isi^ in three divisions, each containing smaller compartments ; in the centre our Lord, the emblems of the Evan- gelists, and the Apostles; beside Boiite 51.— Milan: Churches. 135 them, the principal events of. the life of our Lord. The ends and back of the altar, though less valuable in material, are perhaps more beautiful than the front, from the greater variety of their colour. On the back are represented the principal events of the life of St. Am- brose, in three compartments divided into smaller tablets, separated by ena- melled borders. In the Centre : The archangels Michael and Gabriel. St. Ambrose blessing Abp. Angilbert ; in the pendant, the master-smith Wol- vinius. On the Lateral tablets below at the 1. corner : (1.) The omen of future eloquence, bees swarming around the child, while asleep in one of the courts of his father's palace at Aries. St. Ambrose, born a.d. 340, was the son of the prefect of the Gauls. Nearly the same story is told of St. Dominic, and of Pindar. (2.) Ambrose proceeds to take the com- mand of the eastern and Ligurian provinces of Italy. (3.) Having been chosen Abp. of Milan by acclamation (a.d. 375), he attempts to escape his promotion by flight. (4.) His baptism, which did not take place until after he was nominated by the people to the see. (5.) Consecrated bishop. (6, 7.) Present in a trance at the funeral of St. Martin of Tours. (8.) Preaching, prompted by angels. (9.) Heals the lame. (10.) Visited by our Lord. (11.) Apparition of the angel calling St. Honorat, Bp. of Vercelli, to administer the viati- cum to St. Ambrose, then on his death-bed. (12.) His death ; angels receiving his soul. This monument is important as an authentic record of ecclesiastical costume. Beneath the altar is a large silver urn, which contains the bones of the patron Saint, as well as those of SS. Gervasius and Protasius, discovered in 1871. Near the end of the 1. aisle is the plain slab-tomb of the Emp. Louis II. (875), and beyond it the tomb of Pepin. Further on, under glass, is Christ disputing with the Doctors, by Borgognone. Some fragments of ancient painting have been found on the walls and roof here. The Pulpit, a curious structure, standing upon 7 circular arches, is said to have been rebuilt in 1201 ; but most of the ornaments are evidently of the earliest Lombard period. At the back is a very rude relief, repre- senting an Agape, or love-feast. The bronze eagle for supporting the book, with the figure of the Saviour beneath, is of the workmanship of the Lower Empire. Beneath it is a well-preserved Christian sarcophagus ; the cover, with Christian emblems, appears not to have belonged to it originally. On a granite pillar further W. is a Serpent of bronze, said to be the brazen serpent of the desert (in spite of the Scripture account of the destruction of that type), and presented as such, in 1001, to Abp. Arnulphus by the Emp. of Constantinople. It is probably an Alexandrian talisman of the 3rd or 4th cent. The bronze cross on the opposite side of the nave is of the 9th cent. In the Baptistery, 1. of the entrance, is a good fresco of an Ecce Homo with Angels by B. Luini. Opening out of the 1. aisle is an unfinished cloister, which belonged to the adjoining Convent, used by the Austrians as a military hospital. It was built about 1495 by Bramante, and is supported by granite columns. The Refectory, painted in fresco by Calisto da Lodi (1545), is a fine specimen of the decorated Italian style. Outside the forecourt stands a soli- tary Corinthian column, a relic of Roman Milan, at which the Lombard kings took their Coronation Oath before being crowned. Sant' Antonio Abate (E. 6), built in 1632, contains 7 chapels richly orna- mented with marbles and paintings. The choir is painted by Moncalvo with the history of St. Paul the Hermit and St. Anthony. The Nativity, in the 2nd chapel, is by B. Campi. In the transept is an Ascension, by Malosso, with some well-painted heads. S. Babila (F. 5), a very ancient 136 Boute 51. — Milan: Churches. Church, restored, has a central octa- gonal dome, triple apse, old carved capitals, and a modern mosaic of S. Babylas blessing three youthful Saints. San Bernardino dei Morti (E. 6) is an octagonal church, with a cupola. E. of it is a Chapel, entirely walled with skulls and bones symmetrically disposed. Some say that they are the remains of the Catholics slain by the Arians in the time of St. Ambrose. The oblations for masses are said to amount annually to about 5001. San Carlo Borromeo (F. 5) was built from the designs of Amati, by contri- butions raised after the first invasion of the cholera, and commenced in 1838. It is a circular edifice, sur- mounted by a dome, only second in size to that of the Pantheon at Rome, its diameter being 105 ft., its height 120 ft., and with the lantern, 150. In front is a Corinthian peristyle, opening on a square, surrounded by a portico of granite columns of the same order. The interior has still an unfinished, bare look, notwithstanding its 24 magnificent columns of pink Baveno granite. In a Chapel on the rt. is a Pieta by Blarchesi; opposite, San Carlo administering the Sacrament to a young man, by the same sculptor. San Celso (D. 8). St, Ambrose, in 396, discovered in a field called "ad Tres Moros," the bodies of the martyrs Nazarus and Celsus, beheaded at Milan under Nero, a.d. 69. That of S. Nazarus was deposited in the Church of SS. Apostoli ; but over that of S. Celsus, which was allowed to remain in its original resting-place, he built a small Church, afterwards enlarged, and restored in 1651. There only now remains the choir, an an- cient painting in a lunette, and a door with symbolical ornaments of the 10th cent. The square brick campanile is of the 13th or 14th cent. Some frag- ments of early Christian sculpture — including a sarcophagus of the 4th cent. — which were dug up in the neighbourhood, have been placed on the walls, and the front has been painted to represent the atrium, which is supposed to have stood in front of the building. Adjoining this is the fine Church of S. Maria (see below). S. Eufemia (D. 7) has been entirely rebuilt, except the Chancel and the first two bays of the Nave. In the 1st chapel 1. is a fresco of the Virgin and Child with St. Catharine, a donor, and two Angels (Milanese School). *S. ETJSTORGIO (C. 8), one of the oldest Churches in Milan, was dedi- cated (a.d. 320) by Abp. Eustorgius, who is said to have deposited in it the bodies of the Three Magi, presented to him by the Emp. Constantine. It is one of the few remains of ancient Milan which escaped destruction from Barbarossa. The Dominican order established themselves and the tribunal of the Inquisition here in 1218, and under them it was reduced to its pre- sent form by Tosano Lomhardino (1227). In 1865 the Church under- went a thorough restoration. Several curious reliefs of the 12th cent, adorn the capitals of the piers. The Campanile was built between 1297 and 1309. The interesting Tombs were much mutilated during the first occu- pation of the French, and of the Cisal- pine Kepublic. Their armorial bear- ings have been so completely defaced that it is very difficult to discover to whom several of them belong. 1st chapel rt. : monument of Stefano Brivio (l485),of very delicate cinque- cento work, said to be from a design of Bramante. The Virgin and Child with two saints over the altar are by Borgognone. 2nd : monument to Pie- tro (1416), a son of Guido Torelli, Lord of Guastalla. 4th: tomb of Stefano Visconti (1327), son of Matteo Magno ; the sarcophagus with its Gothic canopy supported by spiral columns resting on marble lions. 6th : fine tomb of Gasparo Visconti (1434), some traces of the insignia of the Order of the Garter may yet be discerned, Gasparo obtained this distinction in Boitte 51. — Milan: Churches, 137 consequence of his having been re- peatedly despatched to the court of Edward III., upon the negotiations for the matrimonial alliances effected or proposed between our royal family and the Visconti. On the sarcophagus are reliefs of the Adoration of the Magi. Opposite is the Tomb of his wife Agnes, with relief of the Corona- tion. In the chapel on the rt. of the high altar is an enormous sarcophagus, which once held the relics of the Three Kings, destitute of sculptures or in- scriptions, except a modern one in large gilt letters, — " Sepulchrum Trium Magorum." At the approach of Frederick Barbarossa the citizens removed the relics from this Church, which then stood without the walls; but upon the fall of the city they became the trophies of the victor, and Archbp. Rinaldus, of Cologne, carried them off to his own city. Adjacent is a relief in three compartments, repre- senting the Procession and Adoration of the Kings (1347). It is supposed to have been executed by some of the scholars of Balduccio da Pisa. Over the high altar, which has been restored, are reliefs of the Passion and Crucifixion, given by Gian Galeazzo. On the same level, behind the raised choir, is the well-proportioned Cappella Portinari, erected by Michelozzo for a Florentine, Pigello del Portinari, the treasurer of Lodovico il Moro, in 1460, and adorned with frescoes by Foppa. The frieze of Angels is by Michelozzo. Here stands the magnifi- cent *Shkine of S. Peter Martyr, by Balduccio of Pisa (1339), an ex- ceedingly beautiful specimen of Tuscan art. The body of the saint was brought here in 1252, after his murder. The large white marble sarcophagus, carved with representations of his miracles, is supported by 8 pillars of red Veronese marble, in front of which stand 8 female figures. Statues of the Doctors of the Church, St. Thomas and St. Eustorgius, stand on either side the urn. The allegorical repre- sentations of the Virtues are charac- teristic of the Pisan school : — Charity, — Faith, — Fortitude, — Prudence, with three faces, contemplating past, present, and future, — Hope, looking upwards and grasping a nosegay of budding flowers, — Obedience, holding a Bible, — ^Temperance, pouring water from a vase. Above is a temple, with the Virgin and Child, St. Dominic, and St. Peter Martyr. "In one of the reliefs the grouping of the figures is most fancifully complicated by the undercut cordage of the vessel." — Buskin. A likeness of Pigello, the founder, is preserved in a painting above the Sacristy door. In the apse and on several of the piers are some freely-restored figures of Saints in fresco (14th cent.). At the N. corner of the modernised W. front is a pulpit, from which it is said that Peter Martyr preached to the multitude against the Cathari and other heresies which then abounded in Milan. Fra Pietro did not, how- ever, content himself with preaching, but worked out in practice what has been approvingly styled " the theory of persecution." He exercised without mercy the office of Inquisitor, and fell a victim quite as much to the fears as to the revenge of those who slew him (see Kte. 32). He was canonised only 13 years after his death, and pictures of him by the first masters abound throughout N. Italy. In the same square is his Statue on a granite column. S. Fedele (E. 5), the fashionable Church of Milan, built for the Jesuits by S. Carlo Borromeo, from the de- signs oi Pellegrini in 1560. The reliefs of the front, not finished until 1834, are by Gaetano Monti and his pupils, and have considerable merit. The woodwork of the Confessionals and Sacristy is worthy of notice. In front of it is the large Palazzo Marino^ now the Municipio, and on another side of the square is the Manzoni Theatre. S. Giorgio in Palazzo (D. 6) was founded in 750, by St. Natalis, but has been much modernised. The frescoes on the ceiling of the choir are by 138 Boiite 61. — Milan: Ghurchee. S. Montalio. In the 1st chapel on the rt. is St. Jerome, by Gaudenzio Ferrari. The frescoes of the *Ecce Homo and other Passion Scenes, in the 3rd chapel rt., are by Luini. San Giovanni in Conca (D. 6), now converted into a Protestant Vaudois Chapel. The brick 13th-ceut. front is a simple gable end. The central entrance and the rose-window are good. Over it is the figure of St. John the Evangelist in a Gonca or oil-caldron. San Gottardo (open from 11 to 3) stands within the precincts of the Eoyal Palace. It was built on the site of the ancient Broletto, by Francesco Fecorari, of Cremona, for Azzone Visconti, SigDor of Milan in 1336. Its conspicuous brick tower, an interest- ing specimen of mediseval architecture, has little shafts of stone at its angles and around the bell-loft. The spire, cut to indicate scales or shingles, ter- minates in a globe, and a little winged figure which supports a weathercock. A portion of the original terra-cotta apse behind the choir still remains. It was when proceeding to this Church that Giovanni Maria Visconti was slain, 16th May, 1412. The diabolical ferocity of this tyrant had continued unchecked for 10 years. That his unbridled cruelty at last terminated in perfect insanity cannot be doubted. He is buried in the chapel near the altar, but his tomb M'as destroyed by the French, and the interior of the chapel is now entirely modernised. The exterior retains its ancient aspect. *S. Lorenzo (C. 7), close to the Co- lonne di San Lorenzo, the most con- siderable vestige of Roman Milan. These 16 white marble Corin- thian columns are of the 3rd cent. Mouldering, fire-scathed, shattered by violence, these relics contrast strangely with the bustle and vivacity of the street in which they stand. Modern antiquaries consider them as portions of the peristyle of the baths of Hercules: and the constructions which can yet be traced in the ad- joining Church seem to confirm this conclusion. The increased interco- lumniation of the 8 columns on the 1. is an irregularity found in the nearly contemporary palace at Spalato. The ancient Church of San Lo- renzo fell down in 1573. The inte- rior was rebuilt in some degree upon the plan of San Vitale at Ravenna, and has 8 sides, 4 being filled by lofty arches enclosing recesses or galleries. The arches which fill the intervals are smaller — the lower Doric, the higher Ionic. A Doric cornice serves as the impost to the cupola, a regular octagon, having a window in each compartment. In a chapel behind the high altar is the white marble reclin- ing effigy erected by Gaspare Visconti to Gio. Conti in 1538. On the oppo- \ site wall is an ancient slab-tomb. At the first altar on the rt. the pictures are by Aurelio Luini. On the rt. the basilica communicates with the octa- gonal Chapel of St, Aquilinus, founded by Ataulphus, King of the Goths and successor of Alaric, who aspired to the glory of being the restorer, not the destroyer, of Rome. In this chapel, which, excepting the cupola, is ancient, although entirely modern- ised on the surface, is the remark- able *Tomb of Ataulphus (416), who married Galla Placidia, daughter of Theodosius the Great. It bears a considerable resemblance to that of his wife at Ravenna, and, like hers, is without an inscription, and of very plain workmanship. The monogram of Christ (with the descending dove over a cross), and a species of Runic knot, with two lambs, are the only ornaments. In the chapel are Chris- tian "^mosaics, of the 6th cent. On the rt.. Our Lord in the midst of the Apostles — a fountain gushes from His feet as an emblem of the living waters ; on the 1,, Shephei'ds and their Flocks, and the Sacrifice of Isaac. It is thought that this part s£ the building was one of the chambers of the ancient baths. The shrine of St. Aquilinus is a rich specimen of pietra-dura work. The *entrance-door Houte 51. — Milan: Churches . 139 of the chapel is of the lower empire, and covered with sculpture. S. Marco (D. E. 4) was built in 1254. The 14th-cent. Gothic fagade (restored in 1876) has a good marble round-arch entrance, above which, in brick niches, are statues — the central one of St. Mark. Over the two pointed windows are some curious low-reliefs in brickwork. The inte- rior was modernised in 1690. It con- tains some paintings by Lomazzo ; the best is the Madonna and Infant, with saints, in the 3rd chapel rt. Over the high altar is a rich circular taber- nacle in the form of a (Corinthian temple. In the vestibule opening out of the rt. transept are seven mediaeval monuments in marble ; one of Lan- franco Septala, first general of the Augustinian Order (1243), is attri- buted to Balduccio of Pisa. He is represented seated teaching amidst his pupils, his recumbent statue on the urn above. Another, with good sculptures, to one of the Aliprandi family (1344), on which the heads of the principal personages have been painted and gilt ; and a third with a Crucifixion, and a professor teaching. The adjoining conventual buildings belonged to the Order of St. Augus- tine. Sta. Maria del Carmine (D. 4, 5), originally Gothic (1446), was altered into Roman in 1660, and restored in 1835. It contains two ancient Lom- bard pictures, and a Madonna with SS. Roch and Sebastian in fresco, by B. Luini, 2nd chapel 1. The Chapel at the end of the rt. aisle, incrusted with marbles and gilt stucco, contains on the wall a picture by Camillo Pro- caccini. Sta. Maria presso San Celso (D. 8). According to tradition, St. Ambrose, on the spot on which he found the remains of SS. Nazarus and Celsus, placed a picture of the Madonna, who, on the 30th Dec, 1483, appeared there. The miracle drew so many persons to the small Church built in 1429 by Filippo Maria, that it was resolved to enlarge it, and this was commenced in 1491 from the plans of Bramante, or his pupil Giacomo Dol- cehono. In front is a handsome square court with five arches on each side, having Corinthian capitals in bronze. The front was carried on and altered in 1572 by Martino Bassi, and com- pleted by Galeazzo Alessi, to whom the present design is principally due. Its sculptures are remark- able. The statues of Adam and Eve, and the reliefs of the Salutation, Adoration of the Magi, and Flight into Egypt, are by Stoldo Lorenzi, a Florentine ; the rest are by Annibale Fontana, a Milanese. The capitals of the pilasters in the nave are of bronze. The rich organ over the entrance has statues of prophets on each side, by Fontana, and is supported by ca- ryatides. Statues of the Apostles stand round the 12-sided cupola. Below, on the pilasters which support the dome, is a statue of St. John the Baptist, by Fontana, and two others, by Lorenzi. The 4th space is occu- pied by the altar of the Virgin, on which the miraculous painting is preserved. The altar is rich in silver and gold, the sculptures by Fontana. The high altar is adorned with pre- cious marbles. The woodwork of the stalls is by Taurini. Beyond the 1st altar rt. is the Martyrdom of SS. Na- zarus and Celsus, by G. C. Procaccini. The mother of San Nazaro was Per- petua, who had received the faith from St. Peter. The roof of the nave is richly decorated with sunken and gilt circular and octagonal panels. In the rt. transept is a fine *St. Jerome kneeling before the Infant Saviour, and a predella with some small pic- tures, by Paris Bordone. Behind the choir are the Baptism of Christ (4th chapel), by Gaud. Ferrari; St. Je- rome, in the 6th, by Calisto da Lodi ; and the Conversion of St. Paul, in the 7th, by Moretto. In the 1. transept, the altar is an ancient sarcophagus, which contains the relics of S. Celsus. In the 1st chapel 1. a good Madonna with SS. Roch and John Bapt. adoring the Child by Borgognone, and below it a Madonna by Sassoferrato. 140 Boute 51. — Milan ; Churches. Close to this is the ancient Church of San Celso. (See above.) S. M. dalle Grazie (B. 5), with its Dominican Convent (1464-93), was founded by Count Gasparo Vimercati, commander-in-chief of the ducal army. Lodovico il Moro and his wife Beatrice were liberal contri- butors to the building. The front is a good specimen of Lombard style of brick, Avith orna- ments of terra-cotta. The wide Gothic nave of seven bays with pointed arches, surmounted by a groined vault, is still grand. The cupola, attributed to Bramante, is covered with miserable modern chiaro- scuro. In the 2nd chapel on the rt. is St. John the Baptist, attributed to Francesco d' Adda. In the 4th are some noble *frescoes by Gau- denzio Ferrari, unfortunately much injured. Three compartments, dated 1542, contain the principal events of the Passion. The vaulting of the chapel retains its paintings in their original full and vigorous tone. The Angels bearing the instruments of the Passion are very fine. Gau- denzio exerted his utmost skill in these paintings, expecting to have an order for the altar-piece, but Titian was preferred, his celebrated Saviour crowned with Thorns, now in the Louvre, having stood here. In the 5th chapel I't., a Crucifixion over the altar, and Angels on the vaulting, by Carlo di Crema; the roof of the last chapel on the rt., and the vaults of the choir, are by the school of Leoimrdo da Vinci. The Choir has some good intai'sia work in the stalls. The high altar is a fine specimen of richly inlaid marble work. A highly decorated chapel in the 1. aisle con- tains a good but injured fresco, pro- bably by Zenale, with numerous por- traits of the family for whom it was painted. In the Sacristy, entered through the smaller cloisters out of the 1. transept, are a series of presses (Lo Scaffale), painted by B. Luini or from his de- signs, with arabesques in imitation of inlaid wood (1500-1525). Gruner has published beautiful illustrations < i this painted work in chromo-litho- graphy. Two deserted Cloisters, and the walls of the sacristy, are covered with portraits of celebrated Domini- cans, and the 3rd with scenes of events in which the Order played a part, and the Glorification of St. Thomas Aquinas. In the Refectory (9 to 3, 1 fr. ; Sun. and Thurs. 12 to 3, free), entered by a gate to the W. of the Church, is the celebrated *Ceiiacolo, or Last Supper, of Leonardo da Vinci. Perhaps no one work of art has had more written about it, and none has obtained higher praise. *' This picture of the Last Supper has not only been grievously injured by time, but parts are said to have been painted over again. These niceties may be left to connoisseurs — I speak of it as I felt. The copy ex- hibited in London some years ago, and the engraving by Morghen, are both admirable; but in the original is a power which neither of those works has attained, or even approached." — Wordsivorth. It was began in 1493, being among the first works which Leonardo exe- cuted under the patronage of Lodo- vico il Moro. According to Vasari, Leonardo told the Duke he must leave the head of the Saviour imperfect, be- cause he could not realise his concep- tion of the celestial beauty it ought to possess : but this head is one of the finest portions of the whole. Leonardo employed 16 years upon the work ; but he used a new process, which proved its ruin. The ground is plaster, impregnated with mastic or pitch, melted in by means of a hot iron. This ground he covered with a species of priming, composed of a mixture of white-lead and some earthy colours, which took a fine polish, but from which the oil-colour flaked off. The materials with which the wall was built was of a very bad quality, rendering it susceptible of injury fromi^ damp. As early as 1500 the Kefectory seems to have been flooded, owing to its low situation. The vicinity of the kitchen smoked the painting, which Boute 61. — Milan : Chnrclies. 141 exhibited early symptoms of decay. Armenini, who saw it about 50 years after it was painted, said it was then half spoiled ; and Scanelli, who saw it in 1642, speaking hyperbolically, ob- served that it was then difficult to discover the subject. In 1652 the friars, wishing to enlarge the door, cut away Christ's feet and those of some of the Apostles, and, by shaking the wall in cutting it away, brought off parts of the surface. In 1726, Belotti, an indifferent artist of much pretension, who painted the fresco over the door of the Church, per- suaded the friars that he was pos- sessed of a secret method which would entirely restore the faded painting. He concealed himself behind planks, and painted it all over. In 1770, Mazza, a wretched dauber, was employed to go over the whole of it again. The three heads, however, to the extreme rt. of the spectator escaped, in con- sequence of the outcry which the pro- ceeding raised. When Napoleon was at Milan in 1796 he visited the Refectory, and ordered that the spot should be ex- empted from being occupied by the military. This order was disobeyed, and the room was employed as a cavalry stable, and afterwards as a hay magazine. The door was then for some time built up, in order effec- tually to exclude the military. In 1800, owing to the drain being blocked up, the rain falling for 15 days, the Refectory was flooded to a consider- able depth. In 1801, Bossi, secretary of the Academy, had it reopened ; and in 1807 the Viceroy Eugene caused it to be repaired and drained, and everything done which might in any way tend to preserve the remains of the painting. The late Professor Phillips, R.A., in 1825 " examined its condition with careful and minute attention, and could with difficulty find a portion of its original surface. " Till this time all paintings on walls had been wrought in fresco ; but oil paintings, which had become known and practised in smaller works, better suited Da Vinci's mode of proceeding, as it admits of retouching or repaint- ing : and, unfortunately, he adopted it here. At the present time, little or nothing, it may be said, remains of Leonardo, save the composition, and the forms generally. " Of the heads, there is not one un- touched, and many are totally ruined. Fortunately, that of the Saviour is the most pure, being but faintly retouched ; and it presents even yet a most per- fect image of that divine character." — Phillips' Lectures. " That part which is to the right- hand of the large dish, under the figure of our Saviour, including an orange, a glass of wine, a portion of two loaves, and a large piece of the tablecloth just about and under these objects, are, in my opinion, the only part of this great work which have been untouched. These parts have all the beauty of finish to be found in Da Vinci's oil pictures." — /. C. H. "The figure of Christ forms the centre ; He sits in a tranquil attitude, a little apart from the others ; the dis- ciples are ranged three and three together, and they form two separate groups on each side of the Saviour. These four groups in their general treatment indicate a certain correspon- dence of emotion and a harmony in movement, united, however, with the greatest variety in gesture and in the expression of the heads." — Kugler. The figures of the Apostles are thus placed : — The standing figure to the extreme left of the spectator is St. Bartholomew; then St. James the Less, St. Andrew, Judas, St. Peter, St. John. To the rt., St. Thomas (with the forefinger raised), St. James the Greater, St. Philip, St. Matthew, St. Thaddeus, St. Simon. " The well- known words of Christ, ' One of you shall betray me,' have caused the liveliest emotion, .... The two groups to the left of Christ are full of impassioned excitement, the figures in the first turning to the Saviour, those in the second speaking to each other ; horror, astonishment, sus- picion, doubt, alternate in the various expressions. On the other hand, stillness, low whispers, indirect ob- 142 Bouie 51. — Milan: Churches. servation, are the prevailing expres- sions in the groups on the right. In the middle of the first group sits the betrayer, a cunning sharp profile : he looks up hastily to Christ, as if speak- ing the words, ' Master, is it I ?' while, true to the scriptural account, his left hand and Christ's right hand approach, as if unconsciously, the dish that stands between them." — Kugler. At the opposite end of the Refec- tory is a very large and well pre- served fresco of the Crucifixion by Montorfano (1495). It contains a great number of figures grouped without any confusion. S. M. della Passione (G. 6) was built in 1485. The fine cupola (160 ft. high) was raised in 1530, from the design of Solari. The front (1692) is heayj and overloaded : upon it are fine high-reliefs of the Scourg- ing, Crowning with Thorns, and En- tombment. The nave has eight chapels in each aisle. In the 6th chapel rt. is a picture attributed to Luini — Christ among the Doctors. Opposite is a Flagellation, by Cam, Procaccini. In the rt. transept is a Crucifixion, by G. Campi ; the roof above it is painted in fresco, by his brother Antonio : near this is the *tomb of two of the Biraghi family, founders of the Church — Daniel, Bishop of Mytilene, on the urn above, Francis below, by Andrea Fusina (1495), an almost unknown Lombard artist. Cicognara says, " Its general proportions, the grace of its orna- ments, the beauty of the several parts, are all in the best taste and utmost ele- gance." 6th chapel 1., Christ going to Calvary — school of L. da Vinci. In the 1. transept is a *Last Supper by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and Christ in the Garden, by Salmeggia. The Flagel- lation, Resurrection, and the long pictures on the pilasters of the high altar are also by him. Much expense has been bestowed upon the high altar ; the ciborium is of pietra dura ; and behind it is a Deposition, almost a miniature, upon marble, by Camillo Procaccini. In the apse is a *Pieta, by B. Luini. The doors of the organ are painted in chiaroscuro by Cre8pi\ and Carlo Urhino. By Cresjn also are* the small pictures of the Four Doctors of the Church, and the Passion scenes' on the great pillars. The fine Sacristy i has ceiling paintings of saints and prelates of the Order by Borgognone. The adjoining Convent of Passion- ists has, since 1808, been occupied by the Conservatorio di Musica, the mo^t celebrated training-school in Italy for theatrical music. *San Maurizio, or the Monastero Maggiore (C. 5, 6), so called on ac- count of its rich endowments as well as the numerous privileges bestowed upon it by King Desiderius and the Emperor Otho, is said to stand upon the site of a temple of Jupiter, and to have been one of the three buildings exempted by Barbarossa from the general destruction of Milan. Of the building of that early period, how- ever, few traces remain, except in the two towers, the one round, the other square (used as prisons for some of the Lombard martyrs), which are embellished with some coarse paint- ings and niches. A fragment of Roman wall was discovered in the monastery. The present construction is chiefly the work of Dolcebuono (1497-1506), a pupil of Bramante ; the front is by Perovono (1565). The interior is divided into two parts by a screen reaching to the height of the upper cornice. The half which serves for public worship is arranged in the same manner as the inner church, which belonged exclusively to the monastery. Great elegance of pro- portion is displayed in a series of galleries, forming a kind of triforium above a row of small chapels. The partition screen is painted in fresco by Luini. In the two lower compart- ments on each side of the high altar are female saints, with angels bearing torches between ; above in lunettes are kneeling portraits of the founders with their patron saints, and, stiH higher up, the martyrdom of St. Maurice and St. Sigismund. Between the latter the Assumption of the Virgin, with numerous figures, round Boute 51. — Milan: Churches. 143 her empty tomb. The 1st chapel rt. is painted by GnoccM; the 2nd has SS. Roch, Lawrence, and George, and Putti on each side of the modern barbarous altar, with bunches of fruit attributed to Luini ; the *3rd chapel is entirely painted by Luini, repre- senting Christ bound' to the column between St. Catharine and St. Stephen, and the founder of the chapel kneel- ing before the former ; on the side walls her Martyrdom, and on the vaults angels bearing the instnxments of the Passion. In the 2nd chapel 1. is St. Stephen, by Aurelio Luini; in the 3rd, the Birth and Martyrdom of St. John the Baptist, with the Baptism in the Jordan, by the same painter ; and in the 4th, a Descent from the Cross, by pupils of B. Luini. The choir is entered by a door 1. of the high altar. The lower part of the screen has been converted into a chapel ; in the lunettes are *paintings of Christ mocked. His Crucifixion, and Deposition ; and on the side walls, our Saviour in the Garden, with the sleeping Apostles, through which a door has been barbarously cut, and the Resurrection, almost invisible — admirable works of B. Luini; the Almighty with the Evangelists, and Angels singing, are by Borgognone, as also the beautiful half-figures in the gallery that runs round the church. The lunettes on the upper part of the screen have the Last Supper, Baptism in the Jordan, and Resurrection, all seen with difficulty. The gallery is covered with beautiful arabesques and paintings. San Nazaro (E. 7), a basilica founded by St. Ambrose (a.d. 382), and dedi- cated to the Apostles, was burnt in 1075, rebuilt, and afterwards enlarged by San Carlo, and furnished with its two principal chapels in 1653. ' The vestibule is the sepulchral Chapel of the Trivulzi, by Giro- lamo della Porta, and contains eight sarcophagi with figures as large as life, in the armour and costume of the times. — Antonio (1454), the father of the great Trivulzio, who, upon the death of the last Sforza, turned the dubious scale in favour of the Vis- conti. — The great Gian Giacomo (1518), Marquis of Vigevano, his laurel- crowned head pillowed upon his cors- let, with the inscription " Johannes Jacobus Magnus Trivultius, Antonii filius, qui nunquam quievit quiescit, tace." This was the Trivulzio who, banished from Milan, returned at the head of the French army, and was the main cause of the ruin of his country. Those who had profited by his treason respected him not: the old warrior died broken-hearted, at the age of 80, and was buried in France. He was the founder of the chapel, as appears from an inscription yet remaining. — The two wives of the Marquis, Mar- gherita Colleoni (1488), and Beatrice d'Avalos, sister of the Marquis of Pescara. — Gian Niccolo (1512), the son of the Marquis ; as zealous as his father in the interests of France. — Paola Gonzaga, his wife ; Ippolita, Luigi, and Margherita — maiden, boy and infant, his children, all lying side by side ; and, lastly, Gian Francesco (1573), his son, who served both Francis I. and Charles V., changing sides as was most convenient. The Church, in the form of a Greek cross, is said to have been designed by Bramante. The first chapel on the rt. has a small but beautiful stained glass window, said to have been de- signed by Lucas van Leyden. In the rt. transept there is a Presentation by an unknown painter, with some lovely faces. A very remarkable *fresco in six compartments, representing scenes in the life of St. Catharine, in an oratory, opening out of the N. transept, was executed by Bernardino Lanini in 1546. In the principal compartment on the rt. he has introduced his portrait between those of Gaudenzio Ferrari and Delia Cerva. In the same Chapel is a curious gilded wooden group of the Adoration of the Magi, and opposite the door a good window. S. Paolo (D. 7) has a row of Corin- thian pilasters above Doric half columns, projecting from the wall, designed by Alessi. The front has 144 Boute 51. — Milan: Churches. a relief over the door of the Con- version of St. Paul, and two long perpendicular compartments with em- blems, beautifully executed. The interior is divided transversely by a screen, as at S. Maurizio, rising as high as the cornice, the further part having been occupied by Augustinian nuns called the Augeliche. San Pietro in Gessate (F. 6) is so called from the Gessate family, who here founded a convent for the order of the Umiliati. The interior has five pointed arches supported by monolith columns of grey granite. The groined roof preserves its Gothic style un- altered. The Choir dates from 1640. In the 3rd chapel on the rt. is a Ma- donna from Luini's school. In the 4th D. Crespi painted the S. Mauro, to whom persons afflicted with sciatica perform pilgrimages. The actions of the saint on the side walls are by Moncalvo. The 15th-cent. frescoes in the 2nd chapel on the 1., representing the Marriage and Death of the Virgin, are attributed to B. Zenale and JB. da Treviglio. In this chapel is an Adora- tion of the Magi, signed " Caravag. pinx. 1609," the year of the painter's death. Two of the Kings seem to be portraits. At the altar of the 3rd chapel on 1., a Madonna, in the centre of an Ancona, is by Bramantino or Vincenzio Fojypa. Some 15th-cent. frescoes attributed to Zenale or Ber- nardo da Treviglio have been dis- covered in the 1. transept. Near the high altar is the recumbent effigy of Senator Grifo (149o), with drapery of red marble. The monastery was erected in 1509, and is in the style of Bramante : it has two cloisters, with Doric columns, and arches with a frieze of brick. It is now used as an Orphan Asylum. San Satire (D. 6), nearly surrounded by houses, a very graceful building by Bramantino, was originally built by Archbishop Anspertus in the 9th cent. to the memory of St. Satyrus, brother to St. Ambrose. All that remains of this date is the chapel in the 1. transept, with four larger and several smaller columns of different materials anc dimensions, taken from earlier build ings. The present Church was bull in 1477-1523. The front was re stored in 1871. It was intended to bt in the form of a Latin cross ; but, fron the space being occupied by the ad- joining street, the choir is wanting and its place is supplied by an illusive perspective painted on the wall. Thi^ painting is as old as the Church, bui has been retouched. At the altar twc angels in white marble support tht corners, and above are two figures ir terra-cotta, glazed white. Over th€ altar of the 1. transept is a Pieta (cur tained) in coloured terra-cotta, by Cara- dosso. Opening out of the Sacristy on the rt., is an elegant octagona *Baptistery, by Bramante, restored ir 1857. It has an arcaded gallery, and eight circular lights in the cupola. The beautiful reliefs, arabesques, and sculptures, in bronzed stucco, are by Caradosso. San Sepolcro (D. 6) retains its ancient towers of the 11th cent. ; the rest is modern. Over the door is a Pieta in fresco by Bramantino, but it is so shut up in glass and grating that it is difficult to examine it. In the rt transept are some figures larger than life in coloured terra-cotta, representing Pilate and the Crowning with Thorns, and in the 1. transept the Washing of Feet. At the altar are saints and angels, in white and glazed earthen- ware. In the sacristy is a picture by Gian Pedrini. This Church belonged totheOblati, a body of priests founded by San Carlo, in order that they might, by stricter lives and more exemplary performance of their duties, check the Protestant Eeformatiou, Near the door is the statue of Card. Federigo Eorromeo, by Corti, a good modern work. It represents the founder oi the museum and library, one of the great benefactors of Milan. S. Simpliciano (D. 4). St. Afc-' brose erected a chapel here, and S.' Simplicianus deposited in it the bodies' of Sisinius, Martirius, and Alexander.' The Milanese, when they defeated: Boute 51. — Milan : Public Buildings » 145 Barbarossa at Legnano, believed that they were assisted by these martyrs, and that three doves, flying from their altar, perched upon the mast of the Caraccio. In consequence of this a fine Lombard Church was built, which, having been modernised in 1582, was restored in 1871. On the vault of the choir is a Coronation of the Virgin in fresco, by Borgognone; a remarkable work for the simplicity and grace of the figures, but much injured. The rest of the interior has been completely modernised. Over the high altar is a good tabernacle, with a statue of the patron saint. S. Stefano in Broglio (E. F. 6), a very ancient basilica, rebuilt by Abp. Visconti, the successor of San Carlo, completed by Card. Federigo Bor- romeo, and judiciously restored in 1829. Near the entrance, on the pavement of the Nave, is a small oblong grating bearing the Scourge and pastoral staff of St. Ambrose, and a circle, supposed to indicate the spot where Galeazzo Maria Sforza was slain on Dec. 26, 1476, by three young Milanese noblemen, Visconti, Lam- pugnani, and Olgiati. San Vittore al Corpo (B. 6). Ac- cording to the tradition, an early con- vert, the Senator Oldanus, had two sons, Fortius and Faustus ; the latter built the basilica which was incorpo- rated afterwards in the Ambrosian Ca- thedral. The former built this Church, from him called Basilica Porziana. It was the scene of the Emperor Theo- iosius' repulse by St. Ambrose, and of ihe introduction of the canto alterno )f the Ambrosian rite. It was rebuilt n 1560 by the Olivetans, from the iesigns of Alessi. The interior is iplendid. The vaulting is divided nto compartments of raised work, bliage and figures, within which are )aintings of saints, martyrs, and mgels. St. John and St. Luke, in the ^ jupola, were painted by D. Cresin; he other Evangelists and the Sibyls ,re by Moncalvo. The paintings in he choir are by Salmeggia — St. Ber- uard, and St. Victor the patron saint, ^ N. Italy, on horseback, the horse leaping for- ward with much effect. On the site of this Church St. Victor suffered martyr- dom. He was a soldier in the army of the Emperor Maximinian, by whose command he was tortured and be- headed, A.D. 303. Another painting by Salmeggia represents Sta. Fran- cesca Romana with her angel. In the 6th Chapel on the rt., with black marble columns, are sepulchres of the Arese family. The walnut- wood stalls of the choir carvings represent events in the life of St. Benedict (17th cent.). The Sacristy is a fine room, with good wood carvings and several pictures, of which the best is the Martyrdom of St. Victor, by Camillo Procaccini. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Royal Palace (Palazzo delta Reale Gorte) is entered from the street of the same name, which runs due S, from the rt. transept of the Cathedral. (Visible from 10 to 4.) It stands on the site of a great building erected by Azzo Visconti about 1330, which in its time was one of the finest palaces in Italy. Giotto decorated it with paintings. After several partial de- molitions it was entirely removed to- wards the close of the last cent., ex- cept the Church of San Gottardo, which stood within it. The present building, erected in 1771, was the residence of the viceroys under the Austrian rule, and of Eugene Beau- harnais under Napoleon L It con- tains many modern frescoes. The show parts of the palace worthy of mention are the following : — Saloon : Night and Morning, by Martin KnoU ler, a Tyrolese. Salle'a-manger : ceil- ing, the Four Seasons, by Trahallesi. Small Dining Boom: a very elegant cabinet, with medallions in chiar- oscuro. Sala di Presentazione : ceiling by Appiani and Hayez — Jupiter and Mercury. Sala di Udienza: ceiling by Appiani— History inscribing the deeds of Napoleon upon the shield of Minerva ; in the angles, the quarters of the globe. Boyal Throne Boom: by Appiani-^thQ Apotheosis of Napo* 146 Haute 51. — Milan: Public Buildings. Icon, he being represented as Jupiter upon an eagle. I'resent Throne Iloom : Marriage of Napoleon and Maria Louisa, .by Hayez. Ball lioom : the Coronation of the Emp. Ferdinand as King of the Lonibardo- Venetian king- dom, also by llayez. The Great Ball Iloom is a splendid old-fashioned apartment. Its principal feature is a gallery supported by caryatides, exe- cuted by Calani, an artist from Par- ma. They are cleverly varied. Small Ball Boom, a hall supported by ranges of columns, is lighted by 3000 candles, and contains one of Canova's busts of the first Napoleon. The Villa Reale (F. 4), facing the Giardini Pubblici, was built by Leo- pold Pollak in 1793 for General Bel- giojoso. It afterwards came into the hands of the Government, and is now a Koyal residence. It contains, amongst other works of art, frescoes of Luini transferred to panel, and brought from the Casale della Fe- lucca, near Monza. The Arcivescovado, or Archbishop's Palace, at the S.E. corner of the Cathe- dral, was re-erected under Carlo Bor- romeo in 1570 by Pellegrini. It can be visited between 11 and 3, and con- tains a collection of paintings be- queathed to the see by Cardinal Monti, and increased by his successors, some of which liave been transferred to the Brera Gallery. Entrance from the E. side. Cross the Court, ascend two flights of stairs, and ring at a door on the left. The best pictures are : — Bor- dowe. Virgin and Child, with SS. Joseph, Ambrose, and the donor. — Campi, De- scent from the Cross. — Guercino, small ]3eheading of St. John, and Judith, both on slate. — Gian Pedrini, small Virgin and Child. — Brocaccini, liais- ing of Lazarus, in grisaille. — Titian (attributed), Sketch of a man's head, and small portrait of Julius II. The Palazzo del Broletto (D. 5), an extensive building with two Courts and colonnades, was built for the cele- brated Count Carmagnolain 1415, and now contains Public Offices. The Palazzo degli Archivi is the large square building on arches which stands in the Piazza de* Mercanfi (D. G). The upper [portion serves as a depository for the Notarial archives of the city, while the arched space below, restored and enclosed in glass (1854), serves as the general rendez- vous of the mercantile community. This building was the Palazzo della Bagione, where in earlier times, the magistrates of the commonwealth of Milan assembled, and where the ducal courts of justice sat in after times. It was begun in 1228 by the Podesta Aliprandi, and completed in 1233 by his successor, Oldrado Grossodi Tres- seno, who is represented on the S. side in full armour, mounted on his steed. The inscription recounts his good and doughty deeds in extirpating heresy : — (Jui solium struxit, Catharos ut dehuit uxit. The Cathari here mentioned were Manichsean sectaries, whose name, cor- rupted into Gazzari, was transformed liy the Germans into Ketzer. The last word should be ussit ; but the author of the inscription took the poetical licence of altering it into uxit, in order* to rhyme. On the archivolt of the second arch on the N. side is a mys- terious figure, which belonged to a much older structure, and was thus preserved in the 13th cent., out of respect for its then remote antiquity. It is that of the half-Jleeced or half- fleccy sow, by whose augury Medio- lanum was founded, and from which the city is supposed to derive its name (In medio lanse). Belovesus the Gaul was guided to place his settlement, just as the sow and thirty young pigs settled the site of Alba. The loggia degli Osii, on the S. side of the square, is so called from the family who defrayed much of the ex- pense of the stnicture, which was begun in 1316. From the balcony, or ringliiera in front, the assent of th^<^ citizens was asked by the Podesta to the acts of Government, and the sen- tences passed upon criminals were proclaimed: the shields on it are of i Boute 51. — Milan: Picture Gallery. 147 ■ ihorial bearings on either side decorate the fa9ade, being those of the quarters of the city. The architecture is Italian 1 Gothic, in black and white marble. ; The adjoining Renaissance building is the ancient ScuoJa Palatina, now con- verted into an office for mortgage : deeds; in front of it are statues of [! Ausouius and of St. Augustine ; it i formerly belonged to the doctors of \ civil law. On the opposite side of the Piazza is the old Palazzo della Citta, or, Town Hall, built by Pius IV. about 1564. The interior has some tolerable paintings of the 17th cent. The statue of St. Ambrose, standing before it, occupies the place of that of Philip II. of Spain, which was converted into Binitus in 1 797, and destroyed during the riots of 1813. The lower part of one of the wings has been fitted up as the Borsa or Exchange. It contains a monu- ment to Cavour, with a good bust, raised by the merchants of Milan. In the other wing is the Central Tele- graph Office. The clock tower was erected by Napoleone della Torre in 1272, and restored in 1873. Palazzo del Municipio, or Pal. Marino (E. 5), in trout of the Scala Theatre, built towards 1560 for the Genoese Marino, by Galeazzo Alessi. The front towards the Church of S. Fedele, and the Court, are remarkable. The Council Chamber was restored by CoZZa in 1872. At the corner of the Piazza della Scala is the Banca Nazionale, and further N., in the Via Monte di Pieta, the Cassa di Risparmio or Savings Bank, a handsome building, by Balza- jretti (1871). The Palazzo Bagatti- Valsecchi, a very interesting reproduc- tion of an ancient building, is in the Via Meravigli (D. 5). PICTURE GALLERIES. — MUSEU3IS. **Brera (D. 4). The Palazzo delle Scienze e delle Arti was built in the 12th cent, on the " Brera,"or meadow laud outside the city, for the order of the Umiliati, some of the principal members of which having conspired against the life of San Carlo Borromeo, it was suppressed in 1571, and served as a College of Jesuits until 1772. The present very extensive buildings, erected in 1651, contain a Chapel, the apartments occupied by the " Keale Accademia," the Schools of various branches of the fine arts, apartments for the " Re ale Istituto delle Scienze," a Gallery of Paintings, or Pinacoteca, the Library, a rich Collection of medals and coins, Chinese MSS., &c. On the ground-floor is a Gallery of Sculptures and Antiquities, and adja- cent a small Botanic Garden. In the great court have been erected Statues of Verri, the political econo- mist, by Fraccaroli ; of Cavallieri, the mathematician, by Labus ; of the Marquis Cagnola, the architect, by Cacciatori ; of Grossi, the historical novelist, by Vela ; and of Count Gas- tiglione, an eminent orientalist, by Galli. A bronze Statue of the first Napoleon, cast in 1810, from the designs of Canova, and intended for the Arco della Pace, stands in the centre of the court. in the Piaz- zetta to the S. is a large Statue of Francesco Hayez (1890). On the stairs leading to the Library are busts of Oriani the astronomer and others, and statues of the jurist Beccaria (1794), by Marchesi, and of the rhetorician Parini, by G. Monti ; and in the corri- dor on the upper floor, Avhich runs round three sides of the building, busts of Monti, Manzoni, and other Milanese celebrities. Out of the S.E. corner of the upper corridor opens The Pinacoteca (open daily, 9 to 3 in winter, and until 4 in summer ; admission, 1 fr. ; Sundays and holidays 12 to 3, gratis; catalogue 1 fr. 50c.). It contains nearly 600 paintings, and occupies 24 rooms. The following alphabetical list is intended as a selection of the best works for the assistance of travellers whose time is limited. The Art Student, who proposes to devote son)e days to an examination of the paintings, will L 2 148 Boute 51. — Milan: Picture Gallery. doubtless provide himself with a Catalogue. The stranger's attention is parti- cularly invited to the works of the North Italian School, especially Lwmt, The most celebrated picture here is the " Sposalizio " of Raffael. The very important Frescoes by early Lombard masters are in the Corridor near the entrance. Some of them have been sawn from their places, and others transferred to canvas. The following are most worthy of notice : — B. Luini, The Madonna and Child- ren — The Virgin and St. Joseph — St. Anna and the Presentation of the Virgin — Angels — Man's profile — *Madonna enthroned, with S. Antonio Abate, St. Barbara, and a little angel (1521)— *S. Catarina borne to the tomb by angels — Meeting of St. Anna and St. Joachim. Bnimantino (Suardi), Madonna, Child, and two angels — Sacrifice to the god Pan (No. 57), here attributed to Luini. School of Bramantino, Madonna, Child, and a nun. Gaudenzio Ferrari, Adoration of the Magi — St. Anna. Borgognone, Virgin and Child, with two angels. OIL PAINTINGS. Alhcnii : 326. Dance of Cupids. Bellini (Gentile) : 168. *St. Mark preaching at Alex- andria in Egypt : remarkable for its size, as well as for the variety of figures and costume ; in the back- ground a large edifice in the style of a Mosque at Constantinople. The camels and camelopard are remi- niscent of the painter's journey in the East. " Begun in 1506, and com- pleted after Gentile's death of his brother Giovanni. In the crowd of listeners may be distinguished the elder (Gentile) clothed in gold bro- cade ; the younger (Giovanni) oppo- site in a crimson robe." — K. Bellini (Giovanni) : 281. *Pieta, "a work of profound and touching feeling, with a passionate and truthful expression of grief in the head of the Virgin, which has never been exceeded in Italian art." — K. 2G1. Virgin and Child. 297. *Virgin with the Infant in a landscape (1510). Bdlotti (Canaletto's pupil) : 352. Landscape. Boccaccino da Creniona (1532) : 426. Virgin and Child in glory; SS. Jerome, Bartholomew, John Bapt., and a Carmelite below. Bonifazio Venetiano : 214. *Supper at Emmaus. Bonifazio Veronese: 209. *The Finding of Moses, an ex- cellent specimen of the master, and a curious example of the Venetian man- ner of treating a sacred story. Ladies and cavaliers, with pages, dwarfs, dogs and monkeys, picnicing, playing on instruments, and love-making in a garden. Bordone (Paris) : 241. St. Dominic presented to the Saviour by the Virgin. 212. Baptism of Christ. Borgognone (1522) : 66. St. Roch. 75. *Assumption and Coronation of the Virgin ; below are the Apostles, with SS. Ambrose, Augustine, and others. Campi (Guilio) : j 224. The Virgin adoring the Infant, j with St. Francis and other Saints, Carpaccio: 288. St. Stephen disputing with the Doctors. 307. Presentation of the Virgin. The Betrothal of the Virgin. St. Stephen. Cima da Conegliano : 191. SS. Peter Martyr, Nicholas, Augustine, and an angel tuning his lute, " noticeable for the great beauty of the landscape and the fine modelling of the heads." — K. *SS. Peter, John Baptist, Paul, and a little angel, 289. St. Luke, the Virgin, SS. Joh# Baptist, and Mark. ^ 286. SS. Jerome, Nicholas ofTolen- tino, Ursula, and another saint. Both the last on gold ground. Boiite 51. — Milan: Picture Gallery. 149 303. S. Giustina, a Pope, and a Bishop. Corradini (Fra Carnevali) : 187. * Virgin and Child, with por- trait of Federigo da Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino, in profile, kneeling. [Partly by Pietro della Francesca, or at any rate executed in his studio. " The head of the kneeling Duke has been entirely repainted." — K.'] Costa (Lorenzo) : Adoration of the Magi (1479). CriveUi (Carlo) : 283. Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter, Dominic, Geminiano and Peter the Dominican. 294, 295. Groups of Saints. 193. Virgin and Child enthroned. Domenichino : Virgin and Child enthroned, with SS, John Evan., Petronius and angels. Dosso Dossi : 333. St. Sebastian tied to a tree ; " finely modelled and coloured." — K. Ferrari (Gaudenzio) : 107. Martyrdom of St. Catharine— " pompous, and not pleasing, except in the princpial figure." — Cio. Foppa : 76-80. Five single figures of Saints. 81. Virgin and Child, with Angels. 71. St. Sebastian (fresco), finely coloured, original, and powerful. *Francia (Francesco) : 334. Annunciation in a Landscape. Francia (Giac.) : 175. Madonna and Saints. Fyt (Jan) : 370. Dead Game and two Cats (1650). Gar of ah : Deposition from the Cross (1527). Gentile da Fahriano : 159. Coronation of the Virgin, on gold ground, signed, but very poor. — K. 274, 379. SS. Jerome and Dominic, single figures. Giotto (doubtful) : 272. *Virgin and Child, part of a triptych. The wings are at Bologna. Guercino : 457. SS. Clara and Catharine. 465. The Virgin, SS. Joseph and Teresa. 331. *Abraham, Sarah, Hagar, and Ishmael ; a picture much admired by Lord Byron. Lanini (Bernardino) : 109. Virgin and Child, with SS. Martha, Joseph, and others. Leonardo da Vinci : 267. *Head of our Lord, a design in black and red chalks, believed to be a study for the head in the celebrated Cenacolo, much retouched. Liberate : 315. St. Sebastian, with an interest- ing architectural background, "one of his best works." — K. Lorenzo Lotto : 244. Pieta. 253, 254, 255. Three fine portraits. Luca Longlii : 479. Virgin and Child, with SS. Paul, Anthony of Padua, and a little angel. Luini (B.) : 265. * Virgin and Child, in front of a trellis of leaves and flowers. Mantegna (Andrea) : 264. *Ancona, in 12 compartments ; St. Luke writing in the centre ; beside him, SS. Benedict, Prosdocimo, Gius- tina, and Scolastica. Above, four Saints (half length), and Christ be- wailed by the Virgin and St. John (1454). 273. Pieta ; in distemper ; singular and forcible effect of foreshortening, executed with great power. Virgin and Child, with Cherubs. Marco da Oggiono : 99. Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt. and Paul. Martini da Udine (Giovanni) : 173. St. Ursula and her Virgins; interesting for the relief (1507). Mazzola (Filippo) : 182. Excellent portrait of a man with red hair. Montagna : 167. Virgin and Child, with 251, SS. Andrew, Sigismund, King of Bur- gundy, Ursula, Monica, and three angels (1499). "One of his finest works — all very dignified and noble figures." — E. Moretto : 206. *Madonna and Child, with SS. Jerome, Antonio Abate, and Francis. 259. SS. Clara and Catharine. 150 Boute 51. — Milan: Picture Gallery. 251. St. Jerome and an Apostle. 235. St. Francis of Assisi. 239. ♦The Assumption. Morone (Francesco) : 29G. Virgin and Child, with SS. Nicholas and Zeno (1532). Moroni (Gioc. Battista): 214. Portrait of Antonio Navagero, podesta of Bergamo (1565). Oggiono : Keduced copy of Leonardo's Cena- colo. Kiccold da Foligno : Virgin and Child, with Angels (1465) ; " an example of his tender manner, without exaggeration or gro- tesqueness." — K. Palma Vecchio : 172. Adoration of the Kings, with St. Helena; "probably his last work, finished by his imitator Cariani." — E. Falmezzano (Marco) : 185. Virgin and Child, with SS. John Haptist, Peter, Dominic, and Mary Magdalene (1493). 178. Coronation of the Virgin, with SS. Benedict and Francis, kneeling. Pietro da Cortona : ■ 402. Madonna and Child, with four Saints (signed). Poussin (Gaspar) : 401. A landscape, with the young Baptist. Previtali : 304. Transfiguration, with a good landscape. Paphael : 266. Sketch, in sepia, of a group of Archers, on paper. At the bottom is written, probably by Raphael, the name of Michello Angelo Bonarota. This is thought to be the original sketch for the fresco now in the Borghese Galleiy at Rome. 270. *The ' ' Sposalizio," or Marriage of the Virgin, painted for the Church of S. Francesco, at Citta di Castello. It is in the artist's early style, and is little more than a copy of a picture by his master Perugino, now in the Museum of Caen ; but in it " Raphael goes far beyond the composition of his school: the most perfect symmetry is picturesquely relieved by the most beautiful contrasts." — Cic. Signed, Raphael Urbinas, mdiiii., on the frieze of the circular temple in the background. Behind Mary is a group of the virgins of the Temple ; near Joseph are the suitors, all portraits, one of whom breaks his barren wand — that Avhich Joseph holds in his hand has blossomed into a flower, which, according to the legend, was the sign that he was the chosen one. This lovely painting has been much im- proved by removing the old varnish ; many fine details, both of design and colouring, concealed by years of neg- lect, have been brought out, some of which escaped Longhi in his cele- brated engraving of it, especially the delicate landscape in the background, which may also have been a little over-restored. Rembrandt : 449. Lady's portrait in his early manner (1632). Belli (Guido): 324. St. Paul reproving St. Peter. Bondinelli : 177. St. John the Evangelist ap- pearing to Galla Placidia. Bosa (Salvator) : 391. A forest, with St. Paul the hermit. Santi (Giovanni) : 188. Annunciation, interesting as a work of Raphael's father ; "of his early time, harsh in drawing and colour, and of no great merit." — K. Sassoferrato : 415. Virgin and Child. Savoldo : 234. * Virgin and Child with SS. Peter, Paul, Jerome, and Dominic — ■ the masterpiece of this rare painter. Sesto (Cesar e da) : 263. Virgin and Child. Solari (Andrea) da Milano : 280. Man's portrait ; admirable. 106. Virgin and Child, SS. Joseph, Jerome, and two cherubim (1495). Signorelli (Luca) : 262. Scourging of Christ. Stefano da Ferrara : 179. Virgin and Child, with four ^ , Saints, '* one of the best old Ferrarese^ i pictures existing." — Cic. "His only \ known work." — K, \ Tintoretto : i 217. Piet^. Route 51. — Milan : Museums. 151 230. SS. Helena, Macario, Andrew, Barbara, and two worshippers ; " one of his best works." — K. Titian : 248. St. Jerome in the Desert ; "a specimen of grandeur in a single tigure ; one of the maturest efforts of his brush, where the splendid treat- ment of the wild landscape, in which the half-nude old man is the solitary- habitant, has a solemn weirdness of effect unequalled in Art." — K. Vandyck : 442. Virgin and Child, with St. Anthony of Padua. 446. Portrait of a young lady in black. Veronese (Paolo) : 220. Adoration of the Magi, with the Four Latin Fathers on the wings. 227. *SS. Antonio Abate, Cornelius as Pope, and Cipriano, with a page and an acolyte ; *' a picture of peculiar splendour and originality." — K. 213. *Supper in the house of the Pharisee. Marriage at Cana. Vivarini : 162. Virgin and Child, with six Saints, and an Abbot praying. Viti (Timoteo) : 10. *Virgin and Child between SS. Crescentius and Vitalis, in tempera, damaged, but most interesting; long ascribed to Raffael, who was, however, only twelve years old when this picture was painted (1495). Zenale (Bernardo) : 87. Virgin and Child, with the four Doctors of the Church. Duke Lo- dovico il Moro, his wife Beatrice, and their children are introduced into this interesting old picture. [By Ber- nardino dei Conti, " a grand and impos- ing work." — K."] The pretty Statue of the Leggitrice, or Reading Girl, by Magni, is a replica of that so much admired at the London Exhibition in 1862. In the same room is a good Ishmael. A series of halls surround the outer portico, and contain casts of ancient and modern statues, the prize groups, and paintings, crowned by the Aca- flemy of Fine Arts j some cartoons by Guido, Ag, Caracci, Donato Oreti; and some modern portraits, including Marino Faliero, Cavour, Eossini, and Manzoni, by Hayez, and a landscape by the late Masdmo d'Azeglio. A monument to Longhi, the engraver, and another to Appiani, with his bust. At the end of the 20th room is Canova's bust of a Vestal ; beside it the Three Graces in relief, by TJior- waldsen. 21st room, Bertini's statue of a Writing Girl, with some modern pictures. In the 24th room is Marchesi's bust of Leonardo da Vinci. Also a collec- tion of studies of animals and groups of peasants, by Francesco Londonio, (I8th cent.), presented to the gallery by his grand-nephew. The Galleria Oggioni, opening from the vestibule, contains a collection of second-rate pictures, bequeathed by a person of that name. The best are a Coronation of the Virgin, with Six Saints, and a Dead Christ in the lunette above, by G. Crivelli (1493); a good fresco of the Virgin and Child, with St. Elizabeth, and a small Virgin and Child, by B. Luini ; and a small Madonna, by Garofalo. The MusEO Archeologico, a col- lection of Milanese antiquities, on the ground-floor, is open daily from 12 to 3, 50 c. ; Sundays free. The most remarkable objects are — (A) the tomb of Bernabb Visconti, surmounted by his equestrian statue, brought from the Church of S. Giovanni in Conca, where it was erected by himself during his lifetime, in 1370. He is in full ar- mour, and the figure is evidently a portrait of this prince, whose cruelty was such as to convey the idea that he was insane. He inflicted tortures and horrible deaths upon his subjects, and kept upwards of 5000 hounds, which were quartered upon the richest citizens, who were bound to board and lodge them, on penalty of im- prisonment, or confiscation of pro- perty. Bernabo was dethroned by his nephew Gian Galeazzo, in 1385. On the sides of the urn, which is that of his wife, Regina della Scala, are rude reliefs of the Crucifixion, a 152 Boute 51,— Milan : Observatory. Pietk with Saints, the Coronation of the Virgin, and Evangelists ; at the corners, the four Doctors of the Church — all attributed to Bonino da Caminoae. Many fragments of sculpture and architecture from ruined churches and monasteries ; Koman remains, in- cluding an altar loith imintinrjs upon it, said to have been found near San Lorenzo. The recumbent *Statue of Gaston de Foix, Governor of Milan, killed at the battle of Ravenna in 1512. This fragment of his magni- ficent monument, the masterpiece of Banibaja, was erected by Louis XI L and Francois L, when in possession of Milan in the 16th cent. It stood in the Church of Sta. Marta, attached to an Augustinian monastery. The monument was considerably advanced in 1522, when, Francesco Sforza re- gaining his dominions, the work was suspended; and the church being afterwards pulled down, it was broken up and the portions dispersed. Other fragments are to be met with in different collections ; some in that of the Marchese Trivulzi, at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, in the Villa of Marchese Busca at Castelazza, and, with the drawing of it attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, in the South Kensington Museum. Another fine monument by Bamhaja is that of Lancino Curzio, the poet (1513). The fine mediaeval doorway of a house in the Via dei Bossi, by MiclieJozzi, curious for its sculptures, the Sforza arms, and the portraits of Francesco and his wife Bona Visconti. In a corner is the richly-decorated tomb of Bagaroto, Bishop of Piacenza, by Andrea Fu- sina (1517). Latin inscriptions of various kinds. Several Egyptian and Byzantine sculptures. The bell of the Commune of Milan, taken from the tower of the Piazza dei Mercanti, with the date 1352. Collection of antique terra-cotta, mediaeval frescoes, specimens of Urbino majolica, ivories, &c., and a colossal bust of the first Napoleon, wearing the Iron Crown. The Library, open to the public, between 9 and 4, with above 300,000 YPIs., is better adapted for general study than the Ambrosian, as far as printed books are concerned. The collection of MSS. is not large, but curious. It contains a great number of chronicles and other materials for Venetian history, which were brought here during the French occupation, and which have not been sent back to Venice. Amongst them is a copy of the celebrated ' Libro d'Oro,' which the republicans burnt in honour of liberty. Amongst the show volumes are the magnificently illuminated choir-books of the Certosa at Pavia. There is also here a valuable collec- tion of coins and medals, consisting of more than 50,000 specimens. The Observatory, or Specola di Brera, was founded in 17G2, under the direction of the Jesuit astronomer Boscovich. There is a Meteorological Section, and observations made are published daily in the Perseveranza newspaper. In a room opening out of the great court, on the ground-floor, are preserved several philosophical instruments — amongst them those for voltaic electricity — which belonged to Volta ; also his library, and several of his MSS. The Botanical Garden is indifferent ; not at all worthy of the institution to which it is annexed. Biblioteca Ambrosiana (D. 6). — {Open daily, 10 to 3, except on Sun- days and festivals; fee, 1 fr. The pictures can be seen free on AVed., 10 to 3, from May to Sept. ; at other times, 1 fr.) This celebrated collec- tion was founded by Cardinal Fede- rigo Borromeo (1609), Abp. of Milan. The Library is under the direction of a congregation of ecclesiastics, pre- sided over by a clerical member, or, if there be none, by the head of the Borromeo family. The chief acting officer is the Prefetto. The librarians are very civil and attentive, but the catalogues, according to the desire of the founder, although good, are nc# communicated to the public. To this circumstance may be attributed the escape of the library from the depre- dations of the French in 1797. The Boute 51. — Milan : Amhrosian Library. 153 Ambrosian was, in fact, the earliest library in Europe open to all students or to the public, for whom writing materials were provided. The Library, on the ground-floor, contains about 160,000 volumes of printed books, and 15,000 MSS. From the great court on the rt., a door leads into a small vestibule, in which are busts of celebrated Italians, also a fine one of Lord Byron, by TJiorwaldsen. On the floor is a coarse Roman mo- saic, found on the site of a Temple of Isis at Milan ; and on the walls reliefs by Tliorwalclsen, and fragments of sculpture by Bamhaja, which formed part of the monument of Gaston de Foix. In the two small halls opening out of the vestibule on the rt. are arranged the MSS. and printed books of the 15th cent. A Virgil an- notated by Petrarch, with one minia- ture by Simone Martini, representing Virgil, and allegorical figures of his works and commentators, is of great beauty. Prefixed is the note in which Petrarch is supposed to describe the death of Laura. The MS., which af- terwards belonged to Galeazzo Vis- conti, may be authentic, but the note is suspicious. The autograph corre- spondence between Cardinal Bembo and Lucretia Borgia, bears her signa- ture, " Lucretia Esten da Borgia." A lock of her hair is attached to one of the letters. — " The prettiest and fair- est imaginable. I never saw finer. If I can obtain some of it by fair means, I shall try. The letters are short, simple, sweet, and to the purpose."— Byron. Josephus, translated into Latin by Eufinus, who died in 410, upon papyrus, probably of the 5th cent. MSS. upon this material are of the greatest rarity. It is one of the first books bound in the modern form, and is supposed to have belonged to At- tila. Homer: fragments of a MS., perhaps of the 4th cent, with 58 illu- minated miniatures, highly interesting both for the art and the costume which they exhibit. This MS. disputes with the Virgil of the Vatican and the Pook of Genesis at Vienna the right of being considered the most ancient volume extant containing illumina- tions. Lucano da Parma's treatise, * De Regimine Principum,' presented by Galeazzo Sforza to G. Antonio Borella, with a curious and charac- teristic portrait of the donor. 12 vo- lumes of heads of sermons, by San Carlo Borromeo ; and his correspond- ence, filling upwards of 100 vols., all in his own handwriting ; also that of Card. F. Borromeo. A large volume filled with draw- ings by Leonardo da Vinci : a singular miscellany — machines, ordnance dia- grams, caricatures, fancies ; the de- scriptions are written by himself from right to left, so that they can only be read with facility by being placed before a looking-glass. There were originally 13 such volumes, 12 of which were presented to the library in 1637 by Galeazzo Arconati, after having refused 3000 doubloons offered for one volume of the collection by the King of England; but the other 12 have been retained in the library of the Institute at Paris, to which they were removed during the first French occupation of Lombardy. Some finely illustrated books of Hours, of the 14th, 15th, and 16th cents., amongst which that of Bianca Sforza is particularly beautiful. A small volume, executed at Rome, with architectural designs by Bra- mante, and manuscript descriptions, dedicated to Francis I. Vite degli Arcivescovi di Milano, with 5 miniatures of the Luini school. Livy, translated into Italian by Boccaccio. The Collection of MSS. is of high importance. Many were purchased by the founder: amongst others those brought from the Benedictine monas- tery of Bohhio, 24 m. S.W. of Piacenza on the Trebbia, by S. Columbanus and Irish missionaries in the 7th cent. From this ancient Ccenobium have proceeded several MSS. of extreme value to the Celtic scholar, inasmuch as they contain some of the earliest specimens of the Gaelic language in existence. They consist principally 154 Route 51. — Milan: Amhrosian Library, of interlinear translations and com- mentaries of portions of Scripture, in general beautifully written. Of these, one of the most remarkable is a Psal- ter of the 8th cent,, with the commen- tary of St. Jerome, This is filled with Gaelic glosses, besides a page at the beginning, probably containing a pre- face or dedicatory epistle. The whole is in the ancient Irish character, and very legible. A MS. of the Gospels, with Gaelic notes, of high antiquity. A class of MSS. which has rendered this institution celebrated are the FaUmpsests, ancient MSS. upon vel- lum, from which the characters of a previous MS, have been rubbed off, or partially effaced. The existeuce of this practice was long known ; but Cardinal Mai, when prefetto of the library, was the first who endeavoured to recover the classics below from the superincumbent stratum of legends or homilies. The original writing is generally in bold, uncial characters, imperfectly erased, and the scribes of the second period usually crossed the older writing, though sometimes they took the intervals between the lines. The principal difficulty lay in the transposition of the leaves, and it is in connecting the separated leaves that Mai showed his skill. The letters of Fronto and Marcus Aurelius, and various fragments of Orations, and of the Treatise de Republica of Cicero, were published from palimpsests in this library. Of the other MS. trea- sures may be cited fragments of a version of the Bible, made a.d, 360- 80, by Ulfilas, Bishop of the Moeso- goths. The Gospels are at Upsala ; a portion of the Epistles was found at Wolfenbuttel. In one of the rooms is a collection of autograph letters of Ariosto, Tasso, Galileo, Cavour, Garibaldi, P. Sarpi, &c. The series of printed books of the loth cent, is one of the most complete in Europe, amongst which is the cele- brated Boccaccio, printed at Venice in 1471 (for a duplicate of which, now at Althorp, Lord Spencer paid 2000Z.) ; tli^ ^mbrosian Missstl and Breviary, and the Statuto di Milano, printed here in 1470 to 1480. Beyond the hall of the museum is the winter Reading-room for students, opening out of which are two large halls containing printed books : in one is a monument to the Marquis Fagnani, who bequeathed his library of 23,000 vols, and 4000 engravings to the Am- brosiana. Returning to the small vestibule, a door leads to the Great Hall of the Library, surrounded by portraits of illustrious men, chiefly ecclesiastical dignitaries, formed by Paolo GioviOy and employed to illustrate his ' Vitae lUustrium Virorum.' Out of this is another room of printed books, the Sala Borromeo, so called from a good monument, by Cacciatori, to the late Count Giuberto Borromeo, raised by his son. Out of this opens the Sala della Santa Corona. This hall, which was formerly the place of meeting of the suppressed charitable corporation of the Holy Cross or La Santa Corona, whose object was to relieve the sick poor at their homes, was given to the Ambrosiana, and now contains printed books. A fresco of B. Luini covers the wall of one of its sides, and repre- sents the Saviour crowned with thorns, between two executioners ; on each side are groups of six members of the confraternity for whom it was painted, all evidently portraits. In a group above, on the rt., between a man in armour and a personage in a civil costume, is an old bearded personage, the painter himself. The fresco is in admirable preservation, as well as the roof of the sala, which is of the period of the painting, as stated on it, Oct. 1521 to March 1522. "The grandest form in which this subject was ever represented is in this fresco," says Lady Eastlake, who calls it " a mag- nificent devotional picture. The central figure placed on a regal height is indescribably fine." On the walls, amongst other curiosities, the gloves , worn by Napoleon at Waterloo, and ^ the tailor's models for his clothes. Annexed to the librai'y is a small Numismatic Collection, rich in coins from the time of yalentiniau to Boute 51. — Milan: Amhrosian Library. 155 Charlemagne, of the Lombard dukes and sovereigns down to the period of the Sforza family (1450). On the first floor are the Works of Art (no catalogue). The position of the paintings is often changed, and the most important works are there- fore given below in alphabetical order. Before reaching the Gallery is the Gdbinetto dei Bronzi, from modern manufactories. In this room will also be found Thorwaldsen's bust, by him- self ; Canova's, by a pupil ; a copy of Oanova's Head of Medusa, and a Leopard with cubs in giallo tigrato marble. A few steps higher up is the Gallery. Besides numerous Engravings by Lucas Oranach, Antonio Baimondi, Salvator Bosa, Calcot, &c,, the various Kooms contain several miniatures, and a Collection of ivories, pottery, bronze, and glass. The most interesting feature of the entire Collection is, however, the very important series of original drawings by B. Luini, Gaudenzio Ferrari, A. Mantegna, Alb. Durer, and others. In the smaller Room is a small head in , profile, copied from Leonardo by his j pupil Francesco Melzi (1510), and \ another of an unknown female ascribed I to *Leonardo da Vinci. In the centre, ; a large model-design in gilded bronze for a proposed Triumphal Arch at the Porta Venezia. In the larger Room is the * Cartoon by Baphael for his School of Athens at the Vatican : it is executed with black chalk on grey paper, and contains the figures without the architecture. " It is one of the most interesting examples of the n ature and extent of the alterations intro- duced in a composition prepared for fresco. The changes are mostly addi- tions. The figure of Epictetus, repre- sented in the fresco sitting in the fore- ground on the left, leaning his head on his hand, is wanting in the cartoon. This figure was added to fill up a vacant space, and thus the change, though a considerable improvement, involved no inconvenience." — East- lake. Two di'awings by Caravaggio, Our Saviour appearing to Mary Mag- dalene j and some fine studies by B. Luini and Cesare da Sesto. — Bernar- dino dei Conti, study of the profile of young Max. Sforza for his painting in the Brera; a drawing of part of the Triumph of Julius Casar, by , Mantegna ; and a portion of BaphaeVs cartoon for the painting of the battle between Constantine and Maxentius, at the Vatican. Albani, Triumph of Galatea. Annibale Caracci, Copy of Cor- reggio's Madonna Incoronata. Appia7ii, Portrait of Grassini the singer, playing the guitar. Bassano, *Repose on the Flight, " a splendid picture of his maturest time." —Cic. BeltraffiOi *Portrait of a man in black. Bernardo Strozzi, Portrait. Bonifazio Veronese, *Holy Family with Tobias, one of his earliest paint- ings, here attributed to Giorgione. Borgognone, * Virgin and Child with the Four Latin Doctors, a kneeling donor, and beautiful Angels. Botticelli, small Virgin and Child, with three Angels. Bramantino, Madonna with SS. Ambrose and Michael, two Angels, and Emblems of Heresy and Discord. Bronzino, Portrait of B. Cellini. Carlo Bold, Head of St. John. Cigola, Four miniatures on porce- lain. Crespi, Two Portraits. De Heem, Fruit-piece. Flemish School, Virgin and Child, sitting by a fountain. Foppa (School of). Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine, John Bapt., Peter, and Dominic. Gaudenzio Ferrari, Marriage of the Virgin. Gian Petrino, Virgin and Child. Girolamo Mazzola, Annunciation, Giulio Clovio, Conversion of St. Paul. Leonardo da Vinci (probably Am- brogio Preda), *Portrait of Maria Bianca Sforza, wife of the Emp, Maximilian (1493), *Two beautiful heads, called Lodovico il Moro and his wife Beatrice d'Este (probably by Beltraffip), 156 Boiite 51. — Milan: Museums. Lor. Lotto, Virgin and Children. Luini, Holy Family of five figures, copied from a cartoon by Leonardo, now in London.— *Christ as a Child, blessing.— ♦St. John Bapt. playing with the lamb. Lucas van Ley den, *Adoration of the Kings. Mantegna, Daniel, in grisaille, Marco Bamiti, Resurrection. Marco d'Oggiono, Virgin and Child. Martino Piazza, Adoration of the Kings, with a remarkable landscape. Mengs, Portrait of Clement XIIL Migutta, Pope Clement XIL Moretto, St. Peter Martyr. Morone, Portrait of a nobleman (1554). Savoldo, Transfiguration, almost en- tirely repainted. Tiepolo, Presentation in the Temple. Titian (good copy), Adoration, di- vided by wooden props which support the shed. Attached to the Ambrosian Library is a Printing-ofl&ce, for works in the Oriental languages, founded by Card. Borromeo. On the stairs and in the court are some Roman and Christian inscriptions from the Catacombs ; and in a small courtyard grows the tin palm-tree, or aloe, which Lalande, in his descrip- tion of Italy, has mentioned as a proof of the mildness of the climate of Milan. MusEO Civico Di Storia Naturale (F. 4), facing the Giardini Pubblici (11 to 3 daily, J fr. ; Sun. and Thurs. free), contains a good and well-arranged collection of Zoologj', Mineralogy, Geology, and Palseonto- logy : the latter is particularly rich in fossils from the tertiary Subapennine formations of the duchies of Parma and Piacenza, and the specimens of Reptiles, arranged by Jan (1866), are among the most complete in Europe. The fossil remains of gigantic animals found S. of Parma and Piacenza, and purchased by the Viceroy E. Beau- harnais, and the fossil tertiary shells described by Brocchi In his classical Conchohgia Fossile Suhapennina, may here be seen. The Great Hall, con- verted into a lecture-room, has its walls covered with frescoes by Tiepolo. There is also an Ethnographical col- lection, and one of Comparative Ana- tomy. The pre-historic remains of the lake-deposits of the Lombard plains, near Varese and Arona, are remarkable, as well as the series of Egyptian and Peruvian crania. Here is a collection of extinct gigantic quadrupeds from the plains and valley of Rio de la Plata, and of all the species described by Professor Owen. There is one of the finest and most complete skeletons in existence of the INIega- therium. This series, collected by a Milanese gentleman at Buenos Ayres, was purchased by subscription and presented to the Museum. At the entrance are busts of Jan and Cristo- foris, after whom is named the Galleria in the Corso. Museo Artistico Municipale, in the Public Gardens, founded in 1878, by means of legacies and other gifts of Milanese citizens. (Open daily from 10 to 4, 1 fr. ; Sun. and Holidays, 50 c) Interesting Collection of an- cient and modern Paintings, several of which were formerly in the Am- brosian Library. Cartoons, original drawings, bronzes, coins, medals, glass, enamels, and ivories. Room I. — Drawings by the Caracci, Bramante, and Tiepolo. II. — Collection of Conte Carlo Taverna, comprising bronzes, coins, and various curiosities. Paint- ings by Crespi, Morazzone, Procac- cini, and Salmeggia. V. — Majolica, vases, and objects in glass, crystal, and terra-cotta. VI. — Paintings by Paul Bril, Brueghel, School of Rem- brandt, and a remarkable full length portrait of Henrietta Maria of England, by Vandyek. Also, two fine portraits by Lotto and Antonello da Messina; Foppa, Virgin and Child ; Correggio, Virgin and Children ; Borgognone, ^ Virgin and Child with SS. Ambrose and Jerome ; Potter, Animals. *Museo Poldi-Pezzoli, in the Via Boiiie 51. — Milan : Hosjpitals. 157 Morone (E. 5), containing a most valuable and interesting collection of works of art, bequeathed to the city by the late Cav. Giacomo Poldi- Pezzoli. (Open daily, 9 to 4 ; 1 fr. Catalogue, 1 fr.) In a series of small but tastefully decorated rooms are exhibited some choice examples of Venetian glass ; Roman and mediaeval bronzes ; Greek, Roman, and mediaeval jewellery ; enamels, armour, weapons, Dresden china, porcelain from Japan and Capodimonte ; tapestries, ancient and modern, including a Persian car- pet of the 14th cent., and an em- broidered velvet and gold altar front of the 16th ; and some exquisitely beautiful cabinet Paintings, which are arranged below in alphabetical order. Andrea Salaino, Holy Family with two Angels. Andrea Solari, St. John Baptist (14^9) — St. Catharine of Alexandria — Ecce Homo— *Repose on the Flight (1515). Bellini, Pieta. BeUraffio, Virgin and Child, pick- ing a flower. Bernardino dei Conti, *Virgin and Child. Boccati da Camerino, * Virgin and Child enthroned, with Angels. Bonifazio Veronese, Sick Lady visi- ted by a doctor. Borgognone, Virgin and Child — Virgin and Child, with two Angels — St. Catharine of Alexandria. Botticelli, Virgin and Child — De- position. Carpaccio, Samson and Delilah — Portrait of a Venetian Senator. Carpaccio (School of). Virgin and Child enthroned, with two Angels. Cosimo Titra, Charity, with dancing Boys — Profile bust of a man. Crivelli, St. Sebastian, pierced with numerous arrows. Filippo Lippi (School of), *Virgin and Child, with an Angel. Flemish School, * Annunciation, with SS. Lazarus, Anthony the Abbot, Anthony of Padua, John Bapt., Catha- rine of Alexandria, Chiara, Francis, and Jerome. Foppa, Profile Portrait head — Vir- gin and Child. Fra Bartolommeo, Small Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine and Bar- bara — a triptych (1500). Ghislandi, Portrait of a Boy. Girolamo da Santacroce, Small pro- file Portrait head. Ippolito Costa, Virgin and Child, with SS. Joseph, Lorenzo, and Louis. Leonardo da Vinci (School of), Virgin and Child, with a Lamb. Lorenzo Lotto, Virgin and Child, with St. John Bapt. and a Prophet. Luini, .Tobias and the Archangel (design in the Ambrosian Library) — St. Jerome, an early work — Christ bearing the Cross — *Marriage of St. Catharine. Luca Signorelli, S. M. Magdalene. Mantegna, Virgin and Child. Mantuan School, San Bernardino, profile, half length. Montagna, St. Jerome — St. Paul. Moretto, * Virgin and Child en- throned, with St. Benedict presenting the donor. Moroni, St. Michael. Perugino, Virgin and Child, with two Angels. Pietro della Francesca, Profile head of a Lady. Pidigo, Portrait of a Youth. Tamaroccio, Virgin and Children. Vivarini, *Virgin and Child, with two Angels— Virgin and Child crowned by two Angels. HOSpM?ALS. Milan contains as many as 85 hos- pitals and Institutions of Charity, possessing property to the amount of 200 millions of francs — 8 millions sterling. *Ospedale Maggiore (E. 6, 7). This splendid establishment was founded by Francesco Sforza and his duchess Bianca Maria, in 1466. They gave for its site an ancient palace which had belonged to Bernabo Visconti. The building was begun on the 4th of April, 1457, the first stone being laid by the duke and duchess. Antonio 158 Boufe 51. — Milan : Private Palaces. Filarete, a Florentine, was the archi- tect ; the southern portion of the edi- fice was alone executed from his de- signs. The ground-plan of tliis original portion of the foundation is a square, the central space being tlie grand quad- rangle. The windows of the * Front are beautifully ornamented with reliefs of children and foliage in moulded terra-cotta ; and the numerous niches and lunettes contain busts of saints and allegorical figures. The central portion of the hospital is also of moulded brick, erected in 1621 by a donation from a liberal citizen, Gian Pietro Carcano. The architects were Mangone and Bichini. The noble quadrangle is surrounded by a double colonnade, having 21 arches on two sides, and 19 on the others. The granite columns of the upper order are composite, of the lower modern Ionic, with archi volts and entablatures ornamented with arabesques and figures in high relief, forming circular medallions, from the designs of Camillo Frocaccini. The upper colonnade has been partly walled in to gain space ; that towards the street is open, as originally designed ; the lower is formed by SO columns of red granite. This quadrangle measures 250 ft. by 280, not including the depth of colonnade, which is 19 ft. In the small Church, opposite the great gate- way, is a good Annunciation, by Guer- cino. In 1797 Giuseppe Macchi, a notary who had led the life of a miser, left an immense property to the hospi- tal, by means of which it was com- pleted. The N. wing, from the design of CasfelU, is out of keeping with the rest. The average number of patients admitted annually is about 20,500 ; the deaths, 2700; the mean mortality being 13 per cent. The hospital can accommodate 2400 patients, but has seldom more than 1600. Monuments have been raised under the porticoes of the great quadrangle to eminent medical teachers attached to the estab- lishment. The Oqyizio Trivuhi (D. 7) was founded in 1771 by Antonio Trivulzio, who gave up his palace for the purpose. The endowment has since received very considerable additions, and the building has been enlarged to nearly double its original size. It now con- tains 600 inmates, all over 70 years of age, who are well fed and clothed at the expense of the institution. The vast Lazaretto, outside the Porta Venezia, has been cut through by the Kly., and given place to a modern suburban quarter. It was the scene of some of the finest episodes of the Promessi Sposi. PRIVATE PALACES. Pal. Belgiojoso (E. 5), built from the design of Fiermarini (1777). At No. 3 in the same Piazza, in the house with a terra-cotta front, Manzoni re- sided. Palazzo Borromeo (C. D. 6), one of the few remaining specimens of the Gothic style, having belonged to the owners of the islands on the Lago Maggiore since 1444 ; the interior is modernised, and contains a collection of minerals, formed originally by Brieslack, and some *interesting paint- ings by JB. Luini and others of the Milanese School. (Adm. on Tues. and Fri. afternoon.) It is now the resi- dence of the head of the Borromeo family. Pal. Busca Serbelloni (F. 2) has a front in pink Baveno granite ; there are frescoes in the interior by modern artists. Palazzo Litta (C. 5, 6), built by Fiichini, one of the largest in Milan, with fine courtyard and staircase, is now the head office of the Mediter- ranean Rly. Co. Palazzo Melzi, opposite the Museo Civico (F. 4), contains some modern pictures, and a good altar-piece of the Virgin and Child with St. Roch, by Cesare da Sesto. Casa Ponti, 10 Via Bigli (E. 5), a portion of the Casa Taverna, has an Houte 51. — Milan: Private Palaces. 159 op6n court painted by pupils of B. Luini ; between the windows are full- length figures of the Muses ; below each window is a circular medallion with a Cupid ; and in the oblong panels between, groups of children in mimic combat, very graceful and spirited. Palazzo Pozzi, to the 1. of S. Fedele (E, 5), was built by Leone Leoni, of Arezzo, a sculptor, die-sinker, and architect, much patronised by Charles v., by whom he was knighted. Hence he is often called " II Cavaliere Are- tino." Colossal statues support the front, to which the Milanese have given the name of Omenoni (big men). Palazzo Sormani, near the Porta Vittoria (G. 6), with a large garden. In the picture gallery is a pleasing Mantegna, The Virgin and Child be- tween St. John and St. Mary Mag- dalene; and Midas, probably by the same artist. Also two fine works by Antonio Canale, representing the arrival at Venice and departure of a Count Sormani, who was Spanish Ambassador. Palazzo Trivttlzi (D. 7) was built by the Marquis Alessandro Trivulzi (permission required to enter). Here is a valuable library of printed books and manuscripts, and a choice collec- tion of coins, and of Greek, Eoman, and mediaeval antiquities, including the monument of Azzo Visconti, for- merly in San Gottardo ; also a large altar-piece, by Mantegna; a portrait, said to be his own, by Antonello da Massina ; and an Ecce Homo, by A. Diirer. In the Via dei Filodrammatici (D. 5), forming the entrance to a small theatre, is a good pointed Gateway in marble, having over it a relief bust of Fran- cesco Sforza, with those of Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar. The arabesques are fine, especially on the jambs, where the triple feather of the Medici may be seen. Palazzo ;;.Ciani, opposite the Pal. Senato (F, 5), is a modern building, rather too profusely decorated with excellent specimens of Boni's work in terra-cotta. The Palazzo Bramhilla, in the Piazza della Scala, has a front by Boni, and is admirably good. Theatres. — Milan is of all the cities in Italy the most celebrated for its theatres and theatrical amusements. The principal house is La Scala, so called from its having been erected upon the site of the Church of S. M. della Scala. It was built from the designs ofPiermarini in 1779, and is only open in autumn and during the carnival. It contends with S. Carlo at Naples for being the largest theatre in Italy, and has always been admired for the excellence of its internal ar- rangements. It may be seen during the day (Ticket, 50 c). The house is capable of containing 3500 spectators. The number of boxes in each row is 41 ; each has a small room attached to it ; the greater number are private pro- perty. The form of the house is a semicircle, with the ends produced and made to approach each other : the greatest width is ,72 ft., the length, from the front of the centre box to the curtain, is 95J ft. The width of the openings between the columns of the proscenium is 54 ft., and the depth of the stage behind the curtain 150 ft. Teatro dal Verme, Foro Bonaparte, originally built for a circus, is now an important house where opera and ballet are very well performed. Teatro Carcano, Corso Porta Eomana, was built in 1803 on the site of a monastery. Every part of the interior is of wood. The house can hold 1800 spectators. Operas are performed here. It is one of the best houses for sound in Europe. Teatro Alessandro Hanzoni, Piazzi San Fedele, for comedies. Teatro della Canobbiana is connected by a viaduct with the Palace, and open only during the carnival. It was founded by Paolo Cauobbio and built 160 Boute 51. — Environs of Milan. from the designs of Fiermarini in 1780. The pit contains 450 seats, and the house will hold 2200 spectators. Teatro Filodrammatico, close to the Scala Mas built from the designs of Folaclc and Canonica. The pit con- tains 245, the open boxes 630 persons. Teatro Fiando, otherwise Girolamo. — This theatre, in the Piazza Beccaria (E. 6), is so called from the comic character, who appears as one of the principal personages in every drama represented here. The actors are puppets. Girolamo is a Piedmontese from the Duchy of Montferrat, always frightened and hungry, but jesting and babbling. The performances are exceedingly droll and amusing, con- sisting usually of a play, which is apt to be very pathetic, and a ballet. Clubs.— The Casino over the Cafe' Cova is an aristocratic club on the English plan. Strangers presented by members are admitted for a week. The Casino della Societa del Giar- dino, occupying the Pal. Spinola (E. 5, 6), in the Via S. Paolo (strangers can obtain admission for a month through a member), gives balls in Carnival; the Societa Patriotica e degli Artisti is in the Via San Giu- seppe, to the rt. of the Scala. ENVIRONS OF MILAN. The *Cimitero Monumentale (C. 1), laid out by Macciachini, was opened in 1866 (1 fr.\ The architecture in the Lombard style. There are some good sepulchral monuments here ; all the interments at Milan now take place in it, intramural burying being no longer permitted in Italy. Cremation is here largely practised, in a Temple specially designed for that purpose in 1876 (50 c). Attached to the Ceme- tery are separate ones for Protestants, Jews, Mohammedans, &c. " It is a single-storied building, con- btructed of Avhite marble, and situated at the extreme end of the Campo Santo. The f;meral ser^dce takes place in the entrance-hall, the body usually lymg on a bier ; a closed coffin is only required when death occurred from a contagious disease. After the rites of the' church are finished, the corpse is removed to the mortuary, where the attendants place it on an iron shell, which is supported by a carriage with rubber-covered wheels running on iron rails. The apparatus is thus noiselessly brought in front of one of these previously-heated chambers, the shell on its carriage is quickly run into the cremator, where it is left sup- ported when the carriage is withdrawn. An air-tight door is now closed, the gas fully turned on, and in from forty to fifty minutes, the ashes are all that remain of the corpse, and these are col- lected in the iron shell, which is re- moved in a similar manner. The mourners can either witness the opera- tion through a sight-hole, or may wait in an adjoining room. The cremator generally employed is heated by gas specially made in a Siemens producer fixed below. The old plan was to heat with wood, in which case two hours were required to reduce the body to ashes ; after considerable trial with both systems, the gas plan is always adopted, and is said to be far preferable. The ashes are placed in a terra-cotta box constructed to fit a sepulchral niche, which is closed with a marble tablet, bearing a name or inscription. The fee for cremation is only 50 francs, and the charge for the niche 40 francs in perpetuity. The poor are cremated free of charge, their ashes being placed in plain boxes in the vaults beneath the wings of the building. Cremation takes place on an average four days a week, but on some days several funerals occur. An inscription in front of the building states that it is dedicated to Paolo Gorni, who was the first to introduce cremation into Italy, and whose remains were thus disposed of in 1863." The Public Slaughter-house (Ma- cello) is in the Via Olona (A. 6, 7), adjoining the cattle-market. About 3| m. from the Porta Ma- genta (A. 5), and on the 1. of the high road leading to Vercelli, near Quarto Cagnino, is Linterno, memorable as the solitude to which Petrarch retired after the death of Laura, and where he com* Iloute 52. — Seregno to Bergamo. i6i po&ed. his poetical lamentations for her loss. Its original name was Inferno, or Inverno ; but the laureate, out of love for Cicero, changed it into the classical Linternum, the retreat of Scipio. The Church of ChiaravalUi on the way to Piacenza (4 m. by road), is described in Rte. 101. The Certosa of Pavia (Rte. 54)— one of the most interesting buildings in N. Italy — may be easily visited in a day by Rail or Tramway. The Stat, of the latter is at the Porta Ticineae (C. 8). Saroiliio— famed for its frescoes by G. Ferrari and Luini — may be reached by the Nord-Milano Rly. Stat, close to the Piazza d'Armi (B. 5). The Pal. Simonetta, celebrated for its echo, is 3 m. distant by carriage- road (Rte. 37). ROUTE 52. SEREGNO TO BERGAMOj Miles. Stations. Routes. Seregno ... 21, 32 9 Usmate Carnate . 51 13 Paderno d'Adda 20 Ponte S. Pietro 25 Bergamo . . 53, 58 This Rly. affords the most direct route to Bergamo from Turin by Novara (Rte. 21). Travellers from Milan will more conveniently reach Bergamo by way of Treviglio {lite. 53). Our line runs due E. as far as 9 m. XTsmate Carnate Junct., where it intersects the Rly. between Lecco and Monza (Rte. 51), and at 13 m. Paderno crosses the Adda. Turning N.E., it falls in with the Rly. from Lecco at 20 m. Ponte S. Pietro, and soon reaches 25 m. BERGAMO (24,000). This ancient city, the Bergomum of the N. Italy. Romans, consists of an upper town or Citta (1245 ft.), where nearly all the objects of interest are situated, and a group of suburbs (Borghi) in the plain, the most important of which is the Borgo San Leonardo, extending from the Rly. Stat, to the foot of the hill. The Citta, or Pergamus of ancient writers, may be reached by a good carriage-road, commanding exquisite views, or by more direct but steep and narrow lanes (see Plan). The follow- ing circuit is recommended to the pedestrian, and will afford him a glimpse of the main features of the place in a long day. A wide street leads from the Stat, to the modern gates, just within which is the Piazza Cavour, having a Statue of Victor Emanuel by Barzaghi. In a straight direction lies the extensive Fiera di Sant' Alessandro, where an annual August Fair has been held since the lUth cent., but is less im- portant than formerly. Close by is a Protestant Church. Turning E. from the Piazza, several interesting Churches may be visited on the way to the Upper Town. San Bartolommeo has a fine *altar- piece, representing the Virgin and Child with ten Saints by Lor. Lotto (1516). It is the largest he ever painted, and includes portraits of the founders of the church, Alessandro and Barbara Martinengo. In the Sacristy is the predella in three parts, belonging to the same painting, and a Pieta by Borgognone. S. Spirito, a handsome building, has at the 4th altar rt. the *Virgin and Children, with SS. Catharine, Augus- tine, Sebastian, and Anthony the Hermit, by Lotto (1521). 5th rt., Previtali, * Virgin and Child, with SS. Lucia, Monica, Catharine, and Ursula (probably his last work) ; above (by Agostino da Caversegno), the Resurrection, with SS. Bartholo- mew, John Bapt., Peter, and James. To the rt. of the high altar, Previtali, *St. John Bapt., with SS. Nicholas, Bartholomew, Joseph, and Dominic. At the high altar are four very hand- 8.5.Gra£a/- 3 . S.LaoTuiTdjo . 10. S.lorenxo 11 . 3 .MMojaq-Lore la.s.sp — 14- . PalAZXO Vecchuo 15 . AxxM^jerrdUx^ CcxrrarcL' • IGTetxXro. 17 . JVotBStoTifc Churchy. 18. Castle ■ le.Alberao JU'ItaJUou 20 AEber^o CavpeTU) cLOro 21 . Troatorra. trLarabLneO^ • Itoute 52. — Seregno to Bergamo. 161 posed his poetical lamentations for her loss. Its original name was Inferno, or Inverno ; but the laureate, out of love for Cicero, changed it into the classical Linternum, the retreat of Scipio. The Church of ChiaravalUi on the way to Piacenza (4 m. by road), is described in Rte. 101. The Certosa of Pavia (Kte. 54)— one of the most interesting buildings in N. Italy — may be easily visited in a day by Rail or Tramway. The Stat, of the latter is at the Porta Ticineae (C. 8). Saroiino— fariied for its frescoes by G. Ferrari and Luini — may be reached by the Nord-Milano Ely. Stat, close to the Piazza d'Armi (B. 5). The Pal. Simonetta, celebrated for its echo, is 3 m. distant by carriage- road (Rte. 37). EOUTE 52. SEREGNO TO BEBGAMOj Miles. Stations. Routes. Seregno. . . 21,32 9 TJsmate Carnate . 51 13 Paderno d'Adda 20 Ponte S. Pietro 25 Bergamo . . 53, 58 This Ely. affords the most direct route to Bergamo from Turin by Novara (Rte. 21). Travellers from Milan will more conveniently reach Bergamo by way of Treviglio (^Rte. 53). Our line runs due E. as far as 9 m. TJsmate Carnate Junct., where it intersects the Ely. between Lecco and Monza (Ete. 51), and at 13 m. Pademo crosses the Adda. Turning N.E., it falls in with the Ely. from Lecco at 20 m. Ponte S. Pietro, and soon reaches 25 m. BEEGAMO (24,000). This •ancient city, the Bergomum of the N. Italy. Eomans, consists of an upper town or Citta (1245 ft.), where nearly all the objects of interest are situated, and a group of suburbs (Borghi) in the plain, the most important of which is the Borgo San Leonardo, extending from the Ely. Stat, to the foot of the hill. The Citta, or Pergamus of ancient writers, may be reached by a good carriage-road, commanding exquisite views, or by more direct but steep and narrow lanes (see Plan). The follow- ing circuit is recommended to the pedestrian, and will afford him a glimpse of the main features of the place in a long day. A wide street leads from the Stat, to the modern gates, just within which is the Piazza Cavour, having a Statue of Victor Emanuel by Barzaghi. In a straight direction lies the extensive Fiera di SanV Alessandro, where an annual August Fair has been held since the lUth cent., but is less im- portant than formerly. Close by is a Protestant Church. Turning E. from the Piazza, several interesting Churches may be visited on the way to the Upper Town. San Bartolommeo has a fine ♦altar- piece, representing the Virgin and Child with ten Saints by Lor. Lotto (1516). It is the largest he ever painted, and includes portraits of the founders of the church, Alessandro and Barbara Martinengo. In the Sacristy is the predella in three pai*tSj belonging to the same painting, and a Pieta by Borgognone, S. Spirito, a handsome building, has at the 4th altar rt. the *Virgin and Children, with SS. Catharine, Augus- tine, Sebastian, and Anthony the Hermit, by Lotto (1521). 5th rt., Previtali, * Virgin and Child, with SS. Lucia, Monica, Catharine, and Ursula (probably his last work) ; above (by Agostino da Caversegno), the Eesurrection, with SS. Bartholo- mew, John Bapt., Peter, and James. To the rt. of the high altar, Previtali, *St. John Bapt., with SS. Nicholas, Bartholomew, Joseph, and Dominic. At the high altar are four very hand- 162 Boute 52. — Bergamo : Accademia Octrrardt some columns of serpentine, little inferior to verde antico. 5th left, Scipio Laudensie, Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter and Paul, and a beauti- ful Angel. 2nd left, -Bor(/o(/none( 1 508), Descent of the Holy Spirit, with God the Father and Angels above, John Bapt., Jerome, Augustine and Francis at the sides. S. Bernardino. * Virgin and Child with Saints, by Lotto (1521). S. Alessandro della Croce. Coronation of the V' irgin with Angels, attributed to Moroni. In the Sacristy, Trinity, by Lotto^ in which the Father is curiously introduced in shadow. Moroni, Crucifixion, with SS. John Bapt. and Jerome, and the painter on the left below. Previtali, Six Fran- ciscan Saints. Girolamo da S. Croce, Coronation in lunette. - The Acoademia Carrara, visible to strangers at any hour for a small fee, comprises two valuable Collections, which are arranged in separate I'ooms, Both were bequeathed by citizens of the town — the one by Count G. Carrara in 1795, the other by Count G. Lochis in 1859. Combined Cata- logue, not free from errors, 1 fr. In the following alphabetical list, the Carrara and Lochis sections are dis- tinguished by their initial letters. 139 L. Antonello da Messina: St. Sebastian, with a beautiful landscape background. 151 L. Bellini {Gentile) : *Doge in his robes and ducal cap. 223 L. Bellini (Giov.) : Portrait of a youth. 180 L. Belliniano, a rare Master: Crucifixion with kneeling donor (1508). 137 L. Boltraffi,o : Virgin and Child. 143 C. Bonifazio Fenefo ; Adora- tion of the Magi. 197, 198 C. Bonifazio Veronese: *Perseus and Andromeda. 219 L. Borgognone : St. Ambrose and the Emp. Theodosius ; small, with good heads. — 229 L. Virgin and Child, with Cherubs. 184 L. Cariani : *Portrait in red — his masterpiece. — 196 L. St. Catha- rine. 1 36 C. Carotto : ♦Slaughter of the |J Innocents. 170 L. Adoration of the Magi. 144 C. Carpaccio: Head of a man in black, shaven. 11 C. Catena: *Supper at Em- maus. 214 L. Cima da Oonegliano : SS. John Evan., Anthony the Hermit, An- drew, Dominic, Laurence, and Nicho- las (1515). 129 L. Crivelli : *Virgin and Child in a landscape, the Infant holding a large peach. 200 L. Dosso Dossi : Woman of Samaria (good copy of Moretto). — 218 L. * Virgin and Child with two Saints. 224 L. DUrer : Christ going to Calvary (1527). 280 C. Ferrari (Defendente) : Ado- ration of the Shepherds. 98 C. Ferrari {Gaudenxio) : ♦Vir- gin and Child.— 13 L. Holy Family with two Angels. — 49-51,84 L. Four groups of singing and dancing Angels (doubtful). 2 1 L. Fiore (Jacohello del) : Vir- gin and Child, Annunciation, and Six small Paintings. 126 L. Fogolino : Chorus of Friars, in miniature, on parchment. 154 C. Foppa: Crucifixion. 70 C. Francesco da Santacroce : Annunciation ; bright, quiet, and de- votional (1504). — 175 C. Virgin and Child. 221 L. Francia: Christ with the Cross. 91 C. GMslandi (Fra Vittore): Head of a Boy, drawing. Giorgione. Several portraits are assigned to this painter. — 157 L. Ce- sare Borgia; 164 L., Man holding a flower; 197 L., Female, half length, i Recent critics believe the first to be by ; Giac. Francia, the others by Cariani, Calisto da Lodi, or Altobello Melone. 160 L. Giovenone : Virgin an^ Child, with SS. Lucia and Michael, two other Saints, and two donors (1527). 173 L, Girolamo da Santacroce t Boiite 52. — Bergamo : Library* 163 Virgin and Child, with SS. Francis, Catharine, Teresa, and Roch. 147 L. Holbein: Portrait of a young Venetian, in black cap [by Jw copo dei Barhari (Morelli)]. 66 C. Lotto {Lor.)'. Marriage of St. Catharine (1523).— 185 L. *Holy Family with St. Catharine. 58 L. Lucas van Leyden: Pieta, with landscape. 130 L. Luini : Nativity under glass, finely coloured. 153 C. Mantegna: * Virgin and Child — not beautiful, but finely painted. 154 L. Colossal Portrait of V^espasiano Gonzaga (by Bonsignori). —159 L. S. Alessio.— 161 L. St. Jerome. — 169. L. Kesurrection. 133 C. Memling (School of) : Vir- gin and Child, with the Adoration of the Magi and the Annunciation to the Shepherds. 128 L. Montagna: Virgin and Child enthroned, with SS. Sebastian and Roch (1487), much injured by repainting. 55 L. Moretto : *Holy Family. 188 C. Morone {Fr.) : Holy Family with a Monk and St. Francis. 175 L. Moroni {Giov. Batt.) : Half length. Girl of five with a pearl neck- . lace.— 76 C. Male Bust— 80 C. Full i length— 81 C *Man in red cassock, , seated — all portraits. ; 183 L. Palma Vecchio : *Virgin and Child with SS. John Bapt. and Magdalen. ; 187 C. Palmezzano : Circumcision (1535). 3 L. Pisanello : Annunciation, with a Friar. 25 C. Previtali: Descent of the Holy Spirit.— 68 C. Marriage of St. Catharine. — 97 C. Ancona, St. An- thony in the centre. — 182 C. * Virgin and Child. — 183 C. * Virgin and Child, with SS. Paul and Agnes, and donors. — 184 C. Virgin and Child. — 171 L. Virgin and Child.— 176 L. Virgin and Child, with SS. Sebastian and Thomas Aquinas. 207 L. Baffael : *St. Sebastian, of doubtful attribution. Sign. Frizzoni, a learned art critic of Bergamo, con- f siders it to be a work of Spagna. 153 L, Sebastiano del Piomho : Por- trait of a Man in white dress and cap. 23 L. Seeto (Cesare da): Fresco of the Three Maries. 157 C. Talpino: Deposition •, small oblong. 74 L. Tiepolo : Bishop-Saint with other figures. 177 L. Titian : Christ with the Cross, and a kneeling donor (the ear- liest work of Tintoretto). 114 C. Varotari: Excellent copy of Titian's Worship of Venus, in the Madrid Gallery. 30 L. Velasquez: Portrait of a Calatrava Knight. 127 L. Venetus {Bart.): Virgin and Child (1505;. There are only four known pictures by this Master, but Signor Morelli is of opinion that several of his unsigned works pass under greater names. 191 L. Veronese {Paolo): Scenes from the life of S. Cristina. 136 L. Vinci {Leonardo da): Vir- gin and Child, ruined and darkened (by Sodoma). 190 C. Vivarini : St. Peter.— 1 9 1 C. Virgin and Child enthroned (1488). 53 L. Zenale : St. Ambrose, pro- bably by Bernardino dei fionti (Mo- relli).— 131 L. Virgin and Child, with a clumsily forged signature ; " unmistal^ably a work of Arnb. Bor- gognone." — (M.) rhis Gallery will soon be enriched by the valuable Collection of the late Signor Giov. Morelli, an Italian Senator, who died at Milan in Jan. 1891, leaving his pictures to his native town. For some account of the services rendered to Art by this accomplished critic, see Introduction to Kugler. . Attached to the Carrara Section of the Gallery is a Collection of Engra- vings, Drawings, Coins, and Medals. I'he Library possesses some re- markable works bearing upon the Fine Arts ; the Hypnerotomachia Poll- phili, printed by Aide of Venice in 1499 ; and a very rare Officium Beatx Virginis of 1545. A narrow road between walls as- cends from this suburb to the E. gate- way of the Old Town, beyond which, turning to the rt., is the Church of M 2 1^4 Boiite 52. — Bergamo : Churches, S. Agostino, now converted into bar- racks. It has a fine 14th-cent, front, with two large windows of four lights each, divided horizontally by a row of quatrefoils. Good view toward the N., which may be best enjoyed by following the high road IS.W. out- side the walls to the ruined Castello. The panorama from hence embraces the course of the Brembo on the W,, the plain of Milan, the Brianza, and the innumerable towers scattered over them, with the steeples of Milan, Monza ; farther still, Monte Kosa, and even Monte Viso, 152 m. off. The Apennines beyond the Po are well de- fined in clear weather, with Crema and Cremona in the foreground. On the S. side of the Old Town a level shaded Promenade affords a magnifi- cent prospect over the lower Town and plain. Just below the ramparts is the Trattoria Giarclinetto. The re- maining objects of interest are grouped together near the W. end of the higher Town. The Palazzo del Museo, formerly P. Nuovo, was designed by Scamozzi, but never finished, the only parts completed being the Doric poi'tico and the left wing, on the front of which is a bust of Bart. Colleoni. It is now occupied by the Museum of Natural History, and forms the S.W. side of the Piazza Garibaldi ; opposite stands the Palazzo Vecchio, or Brolttto, resting upon three lofty Gothic arches, with a pi'ojecting rin- ghiera or balcony, whence the people were addressed by their Governors. The capitals of the pillars which support it have curious Lombard sculptures ; in front is a Statue of Tas&o, whom Bergamo claims as a citizen, for although born at Sorrento, his father, Bernardo (b. 1493), was a native of this town, and compelled by proscription to leave it. The Public Library fills the room on the first floor of the P. Vecchio. It contains more than 40,000 vols., in- cluding a fine series of 15th-cent. works ; about 2000 MSS., among which is the celebrated Dante Gru- melli, a palimpsest of 1402 ; a Manual of the 15th cent, with miniatures; the Life of Bart. Colleoni, a magnificent work on vellum ; and some beautifully ; illuminated Choir-books from S. Maria Maggiore. Open daily, except. Sat. and holidays, from 10 to 3. Passing under one of its arches, we face the Church of "^Sta. Maria Maggiore (Sacristan, 50 c), partly in the early Lombard style ; the more ancient portion dates from 1134 : the N. part was erected in 1360 by Giovanni da Campiglione. The doorway stands on columns sup- ported by lions, and is adorned with remarkably sculptured Statues of the Apostles. The S. porch, erected in 1401 by the German Maestro Antonio, is elaborately worked and of imposing size. The Statues which surmount it are those of SS. Grata and Esteria, flanking the Madonna ; below, St. Alexander on horseback, with SS. Barnabas and Vincent. The interior is modernised with stucco decorations and paintings : the cupola in the form of an elongated octagon ; the tribune and transepts supported on high Italo- Gothic arches. Near the W. door is the sepulchral monument of Card. Longo degli Alessandri (1319) in ala- baster ; and on the rt., a monument by Vela, to the composer Donizetti (1855), a Bergamese. Opposite is that of his master, 31ayr (1845). To the rt. of the latter, on the W. wall, is a fine piece of Tapestry repre- senting the Crucifixion, by Ja7i van Sclioor and Begelbruggen ; the remain- ing tapestries are badly preserved. To the left of the small N. doorway are remains of old Lombard frescoes (1347), comprising the Tree of St. Bonaventura, on the branches of which are disposed the Five Mysteries of the Life of Christ, minute and elaborate in finish. The carved *Stalls of the choir and screen are fine specimens of wood- carving, the upper part by Gian Fran- cesco Capo di Ferro, the lower bj*^ Giovanni Belli and his sons, from the designs of Lor. Lotto and others. They represent the Deluge, Passage of the Ked Sea, Judith, David and Boute 52. — Bergamo : Churches. 165 Goliath, with other subjects. The tarsia-work is by Fra Damiano. The best paintings are the Adoration of the Magi, by Salmeggia, on the rt. of the choir ; the Apostles at the Tomb of the Virgin, by Ercole Procaccini, and Adoration of the Shepherds, by Giov. Paolo Cavagna, on the left. The . Campanile (300 ft.) is one of the towers so conspicuous in the view of the Citta. Adjoining the Church is the Cap- pella CoUeoni (Sacristan, 50 c), the sepulchral chapel of Bartolorameo Colleoni, the condottiere of the 15th cent. ; the restored front is ornamented with different coloured marbles, most elaborately worked; in two round spaces are busts of Julius Caesar and : Augustus ; the bronze doors are modern ; the windows are divided by four columns and two candelabra stems, with varied capitals and ara- besques, placed so close to each other that the apertures for light are nar- rower than the diameter of these co- lumns. The interior is painted chiefly j by Tiepolo; there is a picture by I D. Crespi, of one of Colleoni' s battles, I and a Holy Family by Angelica Kauf- 1 mann; but the principal ornament i is the splendid *Sepdlchral Monu- ment of the founder (1475), by two German artists, Sisto and Leonardo of Nuremberg. The reliefs of Christ led to Mount Calvary, the Crucifixion and Entombment, and the Nativity, Epiphany, and Armunciation are very good ; upon the urn above stands the gilt equestrian statue of the great Condottiere. Near, it is the smaller *ToMB by Amedeo, of Medea Colleoni, the child of Bartolommeo, " one of the most charming works of its kind in Italy." There is some good inlaid wood-work by Fantoni. Along the lower line of the windows outside this chapel is a series of small reliefs of the Renaissance period, representing the Labours of Hercules, Scriptural subjects relating to our first fathers — the Sacrifice of Isaac, &c. The Duomo has a fine cupola, and the proportions and the general cha- racter of the building are good, but as ^ whole it has a bare, undecorated look. At the back of the high altar is a small Madonna, by G. Bel- lini; over that in the N. transept, a. series of white marble reliefs, by Fantoni (1625), one of which, the Deposition, singularly resembles Ru- bens' well-known picture of the same subject : the wood-carvings of children were executed by /. C. Sanza (1695), In the 1st chapel 1., a Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine of Alex- andria and Jerome, by 3Ioroni (1576). In a large Chapel on the 1. is a Head of Christ, by 3Iarco d'Oggiono, Detached from the Church is a singu- lar *Baptistery, built in imitation of the antique by Giovanni Campiglione in 1340, and restored in 1850. The cupola is modern, but the colonnettes are old. Santa Grata has been freely gilt and decorated. The altar-piece, by Sal- meggia (1623), represents the Virgin and Child, with Santa Grata bearing the head of St. Alexander. There is some mosaic work in this elegant little building. S. Andrea contains a Virgin and Saints, by Moretto, and on the vault frescoes by Padovanino. S. Bernardino has an interesting old Tower. S. Alessandro in Colonna has an Assumption in the left transept, by Romanino. In the Collection of Count Moroni are some good paintings by Francesco Moroni; and in that of Count Ron- calli are several excellent works of Moroni, Cariani, Cima da Conegliano, and various Flemish masters. Among the private houses in the Old Town may be mentioned the Palazzo Medolago, near the gate of S. Giacomo ; Noli, just opposite ; and Secco Suardo. In the Via San Cas- siano, 5 min. S.E. of S. M. Maggiore, is the small Pal, Tomini, with elegant windows, fast going to ruin ; and the Pal. Terzi, which commands an ad- mirable view. The position of Bergamo caused it to be strongly fortified by the Vene- tians, and the grea,ter pai't of the w^Usj 166 Boute 63. — Milan to Verona. now dismantled, are converted into boulevards, commanding views of extraordinary beauty and extent. The houses of the Citta are solid and lofty, with narrow streets and steep lanes, the sides often bridged by arches. Here are numerous vestiges of the middle ages — pointed archways, and courts surrounded by arcades upon massive columns, seen in per- spective through the gateways. The Citta is inhabited by the Bergamasc nobility, who keep themselves apart from the traders of the lower town. The Bergamasc dialect is perhaps the most inharmonious of Northern Italy. Harlequin, according to the tradi- tional cast of the ancient Italian drama, was a Bergamasc, and the personification of the manners, accent, and jargon of the inhabitants of the Val Brembana. Bergamo is celebrated in the annals of music as the birthplace of Buhini (d. 1854), Donizetti (h. 1797), and other musical composers. The country round Bergamo is one of the most renowned in Lombardy for its SiJh, the great source of the wealth of its landed proprietors. The soil is of great fertility, and is well watered, the rivers Serio and Bremho being the main trunks of irrigation. Excursions. — There are many fine feudal castles dotted about the country; such as the Castello di Trezzo upon the Adda, about 12 m. S.W. ; and the Castello Caleppio. 10 m. S.S.E. on the Oglio, containing a fine collection of ancient armour (Rte. 58). Steam Tramway N.E. to Tonte Selva (Rte. 58\ passing (4 m.) Alzano, in the Church of which is the *Death of Peter Martyr, by Lor. Lotto ; and in the Sacristy some sculptures in wood and intarsiatura of singular beauty, by Fantoni. "About 8 m. N. of Bergamo is the Church of San Tommaso in Limine. It stands alone on the brow of a hill, from whence there is a beautiful view. Its extreme age is obvious from its external appearance, but it is still in good preservation, for which it is in- debted to the excellence of its con- struction. The plan is nearly identical with that of San Vitale at Ravenna — a rotunda crowned with a cupola. The cupola is not supported by pen- dentives, but by the walls themselves, assisted by the lateral resistance of the arches of the wings. The pillars are stunted and thick, and their capitals exhibit the usual imagery of the Lom- bards." — G. Knight. The interesting Castle of Malpaga and the Ply. towards the Lake of Iseo are described in Rte. 58. Rly. S.S.W. to Treviglio (Rte. 53). Steam Tramwav S.S.E. to (27 m.) Soncino, passing 71/r<7pa(/a ; S. to (33 m.) Lodi, by Treviglio; S.W. to (34 m.) Milan, by Treviglio; and S.W.W. to (20 m.) Monza. ROUTE 53. MILAN TO VERONA, BY TREVIGLIO AND BRESCIA. Vliles Stations. Routes MUan.2, 18, 32, 54,101 12 Melzo 17 Cassano d'Adda 20 Treviglio ... 59 7 VerdeUo 14 Bergamo . 52, 58 28 Romano lombardo 41 Rovato .... 58 62 Brescia . . . 59,71 66 Eezzato 62 Ponte S. Marco 66 Lonato 69 Desenzano 73 S. Martino 78 Peschiera 80 Castelnuovo 84 Sommacampagna 92 Verona (Porta Nuova) 73 94 Verona (P. Vescovo) 75,84 The Rly. proceeds E. in a straight line, crossing the rich Lombard plains of meadow-land, by 12 m, Melzo. Here the line de- scends as it approaches the Adda, ^ before reaching 17 m. Cassano, which is full of silk- works, and has some niins of an an- cient castle on the 1. It occupies an im* Boute 53. — Treviglio — Brescia. 167 portant military position on the Adda, which has been often contested. Here Ezzelino da Romano received his death-wound in 1259; the Venetian army under Francesco Sforza was routed in 1448 ; and sanguinary battles were fought between Vendome and Prince Eugene in 1705, and between Suwarrow and Moreau, 27th April, 1799. Crossing several branches of the Adda we arrive at 20 m. Treviglio Junct. (11,000), a long straggling place. The Church contains in a passage behind the high altar a Virgin and Child with twelve Saints and Angels in six compart- ments. In a vaulted chamber ad- joining the Organ are remains of fres- coes -with some fine heads. Good brick campanile. [Ely. S.E. to Cre- mona (Rte. 59); N.E. to Bergamo. The latter Rly. runs parallel to the course of the Adda and Brembo, but at a distance of some miles, through a country richly cultivated in mul- berry plantations, especially on ap- proaching the hilly region. 7 m. Verdello, on the 1. Here the hills behind Bergamo, and the Alps beyond, come finely into view, the line ascending gradually to 14 m. Bergamo (Rte. 52).] On leaving Treviglio the train con- tinues E. along the plain to 28 m. Romano Lombardo. Steam Tramway to Bergamo and Soncino (Rte. 58). 41 m. Rovato Junct., the birth- place of the painter Moretto and the architect Bichini (1624). Rly. N.W. to Bergamo. 52 m. BRESCIA. (60,000). This fine, prosperous, and flourish- ing city was anciently one of the most opulent in Lombardy, second only to Milan ; and Brescia Varmata was celebrated equally for the strength of her fortifications, the valour of her inhabitants, and the excellence of the arms and weapons here manufactured. But the fortifications are now dis- mantled, and the manufacture of fire- arms in the adjacent alpine valleys has almost ceased. The capture of the city by Gaston de Foix, Due de Nemours, the nephew of Louis XII. (1512), inflicted a blow upon its pro- sperity from which it never recovered. When in pursuance of the League of Cambrai the French overran the Ve- netian states, Brescia fell like the rest of the Venetian possessions, but was recovered by the vigour of Count Luigi Avogadro. The inhab. detested the French, and the standard of St. Mark being hoisted, the whole district Avas in a state of insurrection. The castle, however, was still held by the French, and Gaston de Foix marched against Brescia with an army of 12,000 men, the flower, says the ' Loyal Ser- viteur,' of French chivalry. Among them was the celebrated Bayard, who, in the attack of the breach by which the French entered, received a wound which he thought to be mortal. The French poured in, and the city was taken by storm ; although the Vene- tian troops made a desperate resist- ance, and the inhab. emulated the sol- diers in valour. The city was given up to pillage, and the French, *' the flower of chivalry," under the guid- ance of the " gentil " Gaston de Foix, truly termed by Sismondi the most ferocious of the chieftains who ever commanded an army, indulged during seven days in pillage, lust, and slaugh- ter. The French boasted that 46,000 of the inhab. perished. The spirit of the warfare may be illustrated by two celebrated passages in the history of this siege — the Escape of Tartaglia and the Generosity of Bayard. Among the crowds who vainly sought refuge in the churches was a poor woman of the lowest class with a child in her arms. The French chivalry cut at mother and child, and the boy received in the arms of his mother five sabre wounds ; his skull was fractured and his upper lip split. In spite of this treatment he lived ; yet the wound in his lip was so severe that he never fully recovered his speech ; hence he was called Tartaglia, or the Stutterer ; but his memory has been preserved, not by the injuries which he shared with so many others, but by his talent as one of the greatest mathematicians in the 16th cent, 168 Boiite 53. — Brescia : History. With respect to Bayard, he was carried to the best-looking house at hand, believed to be that of the Cigola family (see below). His wound con- fined him for 5 weeks, nor was it closed when he remounted his horse and rejoined the army. Before his departure, the lady of the house, still considering herself and her family as prisoners, and her mansion and whole property as the lawful prize of her guest, yet perceiving his gentle- ness of demeanour, thought to prevail upon him to compound for a moderate ransom, and having placed 250U ducats in a casket, she besought his accept- ance of it on her knees. Bayard at first refused to take them, but upon her earnestly pressing him, he re- quested permission to bid adieu to her daughters. When they entered the chamber, they thanked him with deep gratitude as the guardian of their honour ; and the good knight pre- sented each of them with 1000 ducats in aid of their marriage portions. Then turning to the lady of the house, he said, *' These remaining 500 ducats, madam, I request you to distribute among the poor nuns -who have been pillaged, and with whose necessities no one can be better acquainted than yourself ;" and so he mounted and rode on. " The booty," says the ' Loyal Ser- viteur,' "was rated at 3,000,000 of crowns. Certain it is that the taking of Brescia was the ruin of the French cause in Italy ; for they had gained so much that a great part of them return- ing home, forsook the war, and were much needed afterwards at the battle of Eavenna." As for the unfortunate city, famine and pestilence followed the ravages of war, and the void of population has scarcely yet been re- placed. The inhabitants of Brescia, and espe- cially of the neighbouring mountain valleys, have always been remarkable for their military spirit and bravery, ■which were again manifested during the political agitation of 1849. Upon the renewal, by the Piedmontese Government, of the hostilities which had been suspended by the armistice of the preceding year, a general rising of the people of Brescia took place, and putting at their head one of their fellow - citizens, Count Martinengo, they held the town for several days against the Austrian garrison in the castle above and a considerable force detached from Verona for the reduc- tion of the town. The cannon of the besiegers, aided by the artillery of the fortress pouring shot and shell from the heights, at length compelled them to submit. Traces of the havoc com- mitted by the cannon on its public edi- fices and palaces are still to be seen, REFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 C 4 Doomo vecchio. 2 C 4 Duomo nuovQ. 3 D 5 S. Afra. 4 B 3 S. Giuseppe. 5 D 4 S. Alessandro. 6 D 5 S. Bamaba. 1 D 6 S. Eufemia. 8 D 3 Hospital. 9 A 3 S. Faustino. 10 D 2 S. Francesco. 11 B 3 S. Giovanni Ev. 12 B 1 S. Maria delle Grazie. 13 D 2 SS. Nazaro e Celso. 14 A 5 S. Pietro. 15 D 2 S. M. Miracoli. 16 C 3 Pal. Municipale. 11 c 4 Pal. del Broletto. 18 C 4 Bibli(;teca. 19 B 5 Museo Civico. 20 D 4 Galleria Tosio. 21 D 4 Theatre. 22 D 3 Piazza nuova. 23 C 2 S. Maria della Pace. 24 C 3 S. Agata. 25 D 5 Pinacoteca. HOTELS. a D 4 Italia. h D 3 Gambero. c C 3,4 Fenice. The town is pleasantly situated, and there are lovely views from the heights above the city. 2 m. W. flows the Mella, the ancient Mela, noticed in the verses of Catullus. Brixia, Cyonea snpposita specular, Flavus quam molli percurrit flumine Mela, Brixia Veronaj mater apiata mea?. The Mela here mentioned is sup- posed to be the river of which Virgil speaks : — tonsis in vallibus ilium Pastores, et curva legunt prope flumina Mel«. Boute 53. — Brescia : Cathedrals, 169 Alessandro Bonvicino, usually called Moretto, flourished here in the first half af the 16th cent. He studied under Ferramola, and formed a style of his own, distinguished by its cool, silvery, and harmonious tone of colour. Many of his best works are still in Brescia. His rival, Girolamo Romanino, was bom in the province. The works of the latter painter, though magnificent in colour, are decidedly inferior in earnestness, tenderness, and depth of feeling to those of Moretto. Important Sights. — Duomo Vec- cJiio ; Duomo Nuovo ; Broletto ; Bib- lioteca Queriniana ; Museo Civico (Antiquities) ; Museo Civico (Chris- tian and Mediseval) ; Galleria Tosi ; Churches of S. Clemente, S. Maria Calchera, S. Faustina, S. Giovanni Evangelista, S. Francesco, S. M. dei Miracoli ; Palazzo, del Munioipio ; Churches of SS. Nazzaro e Celso, S. Afra ; Pinacoteca, Campo Santo. The city has five gates : Porta Mi- lano, leading to the Campo Santo and Milan — Porta Stazione, to the Ely. Stat, and Crema — Porta Cremona — Porta Venezia, to Verona — Porta Montana, to Val Trompia and the other mountain valleys. CHURCHES. ' The Duomo Vecchio (key kept by ' the Sacristan of the adjoining Duomo : Nuovo), also called the Rotonda, was built, according to some his- torians, by Marquard and Frodoard (662-71), two Lombard dukes, father and son, with the assistance of Grimoald, King of the Lombards. Others attribute it to a Count Ray- mond, who governed Brescia under r Charlemagne in 774. Its floor is below the surface of the street, and is reached by descending a flight of steps. The walls are of stone ; the Qircuit on the outside is divided by pilasters into 24 portions, surmounted by a brick cornice. The nave is circular, and is formed by a colon- nade of 8 piers, bearing round arches, which support the dome, in conjunction with the outer circle of walls. The interior has been much altered ; the presbytery and choir were added in the 13th and 15th cents., and the lateral chapels as late as 1571. The stone altar in the choir is of the 13th cent. Some curious mediseval tombs are still left. High up on the wall, over the 2nd chapel rt, is the monument of Lambertino da Bononia, bishop of this see in 1349. On the left, the Renaissance tomb of Bp. Domenico dei Dominici. In the Chapel of the Santissime Croci, N. of the chancel, is the sarcophagus of Bp. Maggi, a good specimen of the style of the revival ; by its side is the tomb of Cardinal Morosini, by Antonio Carra, a Brescian artist. There is a remark- able echo in this Church. Paintings (displaced during the re- storation of the Church) : — Pietro Rosa, St. Martin dividing his Cloak with the Beggar. — Bernardino Gandini, the Guardian Angel. — Moretto, Abraham and Melchisedec ; the Last Supper ; St. Luke and St. Mark ; Elijah asleep ; Abraham and Isaac. — Romanino, the Descent of the Manna, much in- jured. In the apse of the choir is a fine *Assumption, by Moretto. At the sides, the Visitation and Nativity of the Virgin, by Romanino. Under glass is a Flagellation, attributed to Morone. In the chapel of the Santis- sime Croci (end of N. aisle) are two large paintings by OossrtZ^and Gandini: the first represents the miraculous Apparition of the Cross toConstantine; the second Duke Namo delivering the ancient crosses, still preserved as relics in this chapel, to the magistrates of Brescia. The Byzantine casket in which they are enclosed represents Constantine and Helena, with their names in Greek letters. The crosses are known to have been in the posses- sion of the citizens as far back as 1295. It is supposed by some authorities that they were brought from the East by 170 Boute 63. — Brescia : Churches, Bishop Albert, who, between 1221 and 1226, was successively leader of the Brescian crusaders at the siege of Da- mietta, patriarch of Antioch, and apostolic legate in Syria. In this chapel are also preserved the pastoral staff of St. Philasterius, Bishop of Brescia in 384, and several other relics. The Crypt, now unsafe, entered by stairs near the 4th pillar on the rt., and sometimes called the Basilica of St. Philasterius, is supported by 42 marble columns : many of the shafts appear to be ancient: the capitals, which are Lombard, indicate an earlier style than the superincumbent structure. There are some very ancient frescoes on the walls — Our Saviour with a bishop and St. Helena, in the apse, has been supposed to date from the 9th cent. ; St. Michael and three bishops, in the transept, from the 13th. The *Duomo Nuovo was begun in 1604, from the designs of Giovanni Battista Lantana, on the site of a baptistery built by Queen Theo- dolinda, but the vault of the cupola was only closed in 1825. The dome, from the design of Maxzoli, a Roman architect, is said to be the largest in Italy except that of St. Peter's and Florence. Near the entrance on the rt. is the tomb of Bishop Nava (1831), with groups and reliefs by Monti of Ravenna. At the end of the 1. aisle, Palma Giovane, the Virgin, with SS. Carlo Borromeo and Fran- cesco, and Bp. Marin Zorzi, as donor. 3rd chapel rt., tomb or urn of S. Apollonius and S. Philasterius, bishops of Brescia, ornamented with reliefs in three compartments of the 15th cent. The archives of the Canons are rich in ancient MSS. In the centre of the piazza, before the Duomo, is a fountain with an allegorical statue of the city, an armed female (Brescia armata), by Caligari. Sta. Afra, erected in 1580, upon the supposed site of a temple of Saturn, is rich in frescoes and paintings. Near the 3rd altar on the left is the Woman taken in Adultery, doubtfully assigned to Titian. There are two or three repetitions of it in England. — *Paoh Veronese : 2nd altar 1., the Martyrdom of Sta. Afra, over the altar, under which is the body of the saint. The severed heads of SS. Faustino and Jovita lie at the foot of the scaffold ; that in front is the portrait of the painter. The picture has suffered from modern restoration. — Tintoretto : the Transfiguration, at the high altar. The lateral pictures of SS. Faustino and Jovita are by Palma Giovane. They were brothers of a patrician family, who preached Christianity at Brescia whilst the bishop of the city lay concealed during the persecution. They are said to have suffered mar- tyrdom, A.D. 121, in the presence of the Emp. Hadrian. — Bassano (2nd chapel on rt.), the Baptism of Sta. Afra: the rite is administered by torchlight by St. Apollonius, and Faustino and Jovita are distribut- ing the Eucharist. — G. C. Procaccini (4th chapel rt.), the Virgin and Child, with SS. Carlo Borromeo and Latinus. One of the adjoining clois- ters, in the style of Sausovino, is good. The crypt has been modern- ised. Sta. Agata, supposed to have been founded by Queen Theodolinda. Among the paintings are : — Foppa the younger, Nativity and Adoration of the Magi, at the 1st altar on the 1. ; and over the high altar, the *Martyr- dom of S. Agata, by Calisto da Lodi (with SS. Peter, Paul, Barbara, and Catharine below), the masterpiece of the artist, and a picture of great beauty. S. Alessandro, an ancient founda* tion, formerly belonging to the order of the Servites, has, at the 1st altar on the rt., a fine painting of the * Annun- ciation, by Fra Angtlico da Fiesole (1432). The predella of the Life of the Virgin is by Vi7icenzo CivercJiio. At the 5th altar rt., is an Ecce Homo, ^ by Lattanzio Gamhara. S. Clemente contains five paintings by Moretto ; 2nd chapel rt„ the *Five Boute 63. — Brescia : Churches, 171 Virgin Saints, Cecilia, Agatha, Lucia, Barbara, and Agnes. At the first altar 1., St. Ursula and her train. These two pictures " give evidence of the master's tender, impressible nature, which succeeded above all in female characters."— Cio. Over the high altar is the *Virgin and Child in a bower with Angels ; below, SS. Ca- tharine, Dominic, Clement, George, and Mary Magdalene. 4th 1., the Offering of Melchisedec ; 3rd, Virgin and Child, with the two SS. Catharine, Paul, and Jerome. The painter is buried on the 1. of the entrance ; the bust over his tomb is by San Giorgio, erected in 1842. The Church of Corpo di Cristo (B. 5) has a good Renaissance door- way and some picturesque brickwork. San Faustino Maggiore. -- The bodies of St. Faustinus and St. Jovita were translated hither in 843. The present building is of the early part of the 17th cent., after the designs of Caligari. The walls and roof are covered with frescoes. The tomb of the patron saints, behind the high altar, by Carra, is of black and white marble in the heavy style of the 17th cent. The *Nativity, over the 2nd altar rt., by Gambara, is one of the largest and best of his oil paintings. San rrancesco was founded in 1254 ; but only a small portion of the origi- nal edifice remains — the W. front, which is Lombard, with a good wheel window, and the bell-tower. Within its precincts the Brescians took the oath of fidelity to the republic of Venice, March 17th, 1421. Paintings: —over the high altar, *'Bomanino, the Virgin and Child, surrounded by SS. Francis, Anthony of Padua, Bonaven- tura, and Louis (1502), in a fine old frame. Good intarsia stalls of 1483. In the Sacristy is a small Virgin and Child on wood in a good frame, and some fine tarsia panelling and presses of 1511. Near it, a picturesque little Cloister with a fountain. — Moretto, SS. Jerome, Margaret, and Francis (1530), in the 3rd chapel rt. To the rt. of it is an old fresco of the En- tombment, under glass. In the 4th chapel 1. are some fine specimens of intarsiatura work, representing 26 subjects from the life of Christ, exe- cuted in 1553 by G. B. Virsch. 1st 1., * Francesco Prato da Caravaggio, the Marriage of the Virgin (1547), with great beauty of expression and colouring. The worts of this painter are exceedingly rare. San Giovanni Evangelista, the pri- mitive Church of Brescia, having been founded in the 4th cent, by St. Gaudentius, was rebuilt in the 16th. In the 3rd chapel rt. the Massacre of the Innocents, by Moretto. Over the high altar the Virgin and Child, with SS. John Ev., Augustine, Agnes, and John Bapt., the Almighty and a prophet above, by Moretto; the two Prophets on the side panels, and two scenes from the life of St. John Bapt,, are by Maganza. The Three Maries weeping over the Body of the Saviour in the chapel of the Sacrament (5th 1.) is attributed to Giov. Bellini. Below it, forming a predella to the hand- some frame, is a good carving of the Last Supper in gilded wood, com- prising figures only, without a table. In the same chapel are the competing *Frescoes of Moretto and Romanino ; to the former belong (on the rt.) the Fall of the Manna, Elijah, the Last Supper, with fine heads, two Evan- gelists, and the Prophets on the roof; to Romanino (on the 1.), the Eesur- rection of Lazarus, the Magdalen in the House of the Pharisee, the Miracle of St. Gregory, and two more Evan- gelists and Prophets on the roof. The woodwork of this chapel is plain but tasteful. The Marriage of the Virgin, by Romanino, in the 4th chapel 1., is considered one of his best works. In the Baptistery, 1st 1., is a good picture of SS. Biagio, Mary, Peter Martyr, Mary Magdalene, and Barbara, by Lorenzo Costa. San Giuseppe. Paintings all re- moved to the Pinacoteca. On the left of the Church is a picturesque cloister with a fountain. 172 Bouie 63. — Brescia: Public Buildings^ Etc. S. Maria Calchera has beneath the pulpit a painting of the *Saviour with SS. Jerome and Catharine, by Moretto;^ at the 3rd altar rt., S. Apollonius at Mass, attended by Faustinas and Jovita as sub -deacons, and four kneeling figures, by Boma- ni'jio, both fine works. Over the high altar the Visitation, by Calisto da Lodi (1525), and in the 1st chapel 1,, *Jesus and the Magdalen at the Pharisee's Supper, by Moretto. S. M. delle Grazie, 1st chapel rt., Pietro Rosa, *St. Barbara kneeling before her Father in Expectation of Death (1574). — 4th, good copy of Moretto, St. Anthony of Padua, St. Antonio Abate, and S. Nicolo Tolen- tino, at the Pinacoteca; 7th, the Madonna, with SS. Sebastian, Martin, and Roch, by the same. — Procaccini, Nativity of the Virgin, over the high altar — Ferramola (1st chapel 1.), Virgin and Child. To the left of the Church is a pretty Cloister, hung round with votive offerings for favours received from the Virgin. S. M. dei Miracoli, remarkable for its sculptured Renaissance front, by Gasparo Pedoni, the best part of which is the porch. Over the 1st altar on the rt., *St. Nicholas, leading four children before the throne of the Madonna, " a sweet work," by Moretto. In the choir on the rt., an Assumption by Morons. SS. Nazzaro e Celso was rebuilt iu 1780. The *picture behind the high altar, by Titian, consists of the An- nunciation above ; in the centre the Resurrection ; in the lower compart- ment on the 1., the portrait of Alto- bello Averoldo, by whom the picture was presented to the church, together with the patron saints, Nazzaro and Celso, in armour. On the other side is St. Sebastian, a magnificent figure, and in the distance St. Roch healed by the Angel; the introduction of these two Saints probably showing that the painting was a votive offering after a pestilence ; signed "Ticiauus faciebat, MDXXII." Iu the 2nd chapel on the 1., is the ♦Coronation of the Virgin, by ilfo- retto, with SS. Michael, Joseph, Francis, and Nicholas ; the whole picture is beautifully harmonious in light and colour. The Transfigura- tion, in the 3rd rt., is also by Moretto. Over the entrance doors, Foppa the younger, Martyrdom of the Patron Saints ; on the rt.. Scourging ; on the 1., Beheading. In a large chapel on the rt. of the entrance is a fine sepul- chral effigy of Altobello Averoldo. In the sacristy the Annunciation, by Moretto. San Pietro in Oliveto, a Carmelite Church below the fortress, was partly rebuilt by Sansovino. Its pictures have been removed. On the rt., leading into the Convent, is a very beautiful Renaissance doorway. San Salvatore. — This noble build- ing, in the form of an ancient basilica, was erected by Desiderius, King of the Lombards, in the middle of the 8th cent., and is now attached to the Mediseval Museum (see below). It is proposed to restore the Church, whose curious ci'ypt, constructed of Roman fragments, has some interesting old frescoes. In the Seminario di S. Angelo (E. 6) is a good painting by Moretto — The Trinity, with SS. Peter and Paul. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &C. MusEO Civico, in two Sections— An- tico (Romano), and Medioevale (Cris- tiano). Both open daily from 10 to 3 in winter, or 4 in summer, fee 1 fr. The same ticket admits the holder to each Museum. The building which contains the Roman Section (19, B. 5) is supposed from some fragments of inscriptions to have been erected by Vespasian (a.d. 72) on the site of a still more ancient Temple, and dedicated to Her-, cules. Many vestiges of an older structure may be seen in the passages ** and vaults included in the basement story. They have tesselated pave-^ ments, and the walls are of the " opus reticulatum," over which a hard Boute 53. — Brescia : Museo Civico. 173 polished stUcco has been laid. Large portions of this remain quite perfect j it was painted in compartments, and the colours are very fresh. The antiquities of Brescia were investigated in the 17th cent, by Rossi, who describes them in his Memorie Bresciane, and whose accu- rate observation is established by recent discoveries. A tall Corinthian column was then protruding through the soil, and Rossi in his treatise gave the di'awing of the whole Temple to which it had belonged. When the municipal authorities instituted an excavation in 1823, the result was the discovery of the entire Portico, and of much of the adjoining structure. The columns, with the exception of the one which so long declared the existence of the rest, are broken at various heights, but the stairs and the basement are entirely in their original state. The latter is composed of up- right blocks of marble, one block composing its whole height. The masonry indeed throughout is excel- lent. The architecture has many peculiarities, and, like almost every Roman building of the same period, shows that the architects considered themselves as by no means bound by such rules as those which Vitruvius has laid down. The finest work in it is the bronze winged * Statue of Vic- tory or Fame discovered in 1826, and originally gilded. The shield under the left hand is a restoration ; so also is the helmet upon which the left foot rests. The figure is 6 J ft. in height ; the head is encircled by a fillet, on which is traced a laurel branch, inlaid with silver. The drapery and wings are executed with the greatest deli- cacy. When discovered, the wings were found lying at the feet of the statue, evidently having been taken off for the purpose of better stowing the figure in its place of concealment. The head, the drapery, the elegance of the limbs, are as fine as can be con- ceived. Found together with the Vic- tory, and now in the same room, are six heads with traces of gilding : one of them is supposed to represent Julia, the daughter of Titus, or the Empress Faustina. Also a small statue, fully gilt, representing a cap- tive barbarian. The workmanship is inferior to that of the Victory. Portions of harness, with very fine figures in relief. A female hand and arm, larger than life : very fine. Many fragments of moulding and or- naments, some gilt, all of great ele- gance, and probably decorations of the monument of which the Victory formed a part. The Boman inscriptions are about 1400 in number. The citizens of Brescia began to preserve these re- mains earlier than any other city in Europe. By a special ordinance, passed in 1480, they required that all who, in digging or otherwise, might discover ancient inscriptions, should preserve them. The inscriptions thus brought together have been edited and published by Mommsen : f many are early Christian ; one is to the memory of a certain Cecilia, who is singularly described as " Mater Synagogse Brix- ianorum." In a Room on the rt. of the entrance are many rare specimens of ancient Roman glass, including a beautiful little oval *amphora of reddish-violet hue, found in 1853 at Bagnolo Bres- ciano; a coloured platter of Corin- thian glass ; funeral urns and Etrus- can vases. The Collection of Coins comprises 9000 examples. Consular, Imperial, Greek, Byzantine, Mediaeval, and Modern. There are several architectural frag- ments ; some exhibit rich varieties of the composite. An Ionic capital, with fine angular volutes ; votive altars and cippi ; a portion of a beautiful mosaic pavement ; two human skele- tons of the Bronze Age ; specimens of pottery and articles of bronze. On the left, near the exit from the Museum, are the supposed remains of a Theatre. Not much is seen, as they are concealed by a private dwelling- house. 5 min. S., in the small oblong Piazza Beveradore, has been dis- covered part of the front of a fine building, supposed to be the Curia t Inscrijitiones Urbis Brixiae, Berlin, 1874, 174 Itoute 53. — Brescia : Museo Crietiano* (provincial House of Assembly) of the Koman city. It is expected that further excavations between this spot and the Museum will lay bare some interesting ancient sites. The Museo Cristiano, devoted to medieeval remains, has been esta- blished in the Church of S. Giulia, 5 min. E. of the Museum of Antiqui- ties. This Church, decorated with frescoes by Foppa and Ferramola, be* longed to a celebrated Nunnery founded by the Lombard Kings. It is contiguous to the ancient Church of S. Salvatore and to the little Chapel of S. M. in Solario, which form to- gether a most interesting chronolo- gical, historical, and artistic group of buildings, and a veritable Christian Museum. Entering by a lateral door, on the rt. is a Cupboard of the 16th cent. ; an inlaid Lectern, by Maffaello da Brescia (1520); and a very beautiful bust in bronze. Between two windows has been aiTanged an interesting Collec- tion of about 3U3 medals, objects in niella, bronze, &c. Close by is the *ToMB OF Marcantonio Martinengo, an able commander in the Venetian service, slain in a skirmish with the Spaniards in 1526. The monument is adorned with reliefs of Scripture his- tories. Left of it is a small bronze Statue by Donatello ; then a monument to the Count of Pitigliano (1510), in front of which, by the window, are some beautiful specimens of ornament in bronze and copper. Further on is the Sacrifice of Isaac, carved in ivory and ebony by the Dutch sculptor Flattenberg ; a fine assortment of Ivories and Enamels, among which is the celebrated *Lipsanoteca, a series of sculptured ivory plates, which formed a box in the shape of a Cross, to contain relics ; the reliefs repre- sent Old and New Testament subjects, and are referred to the 4th cent. In the following case is some good Mu- rano glass. In the middle of the room are rare Medals, many of them unique, and three valuable ivory diptychs — the first in honour of Boetius, who became consul in 487, and who was the father of the celebrated Severinu8 Boetius ; on the back are some curious Christian miniatures of the 6th cent., representing the Raising of Lazarus, and SS. Jerome, Augustine, and Gre- gory : on one side the consul is repre- sented in his consular robes ; on the other presiding at the games of the Circus. Another diptych of Lampa- dius, consul a.d. 530 ; he also is repre- sented as presiding at the games. A third, called the Dittico Queriniano, is said to have belonged to Pope Paul II., afterwards passing into the possession of Cardinal Querini, Bp. of Brescia, with mythological subjects — Paris and Helen on one side, and a group of Paris and Helen crowned by Love on the other : many have sus- pected that it is of comparatively recent date : the workmanship at all events is beautiful. Near this is the celebrated Byzantine *Cross of Galla Placioia, set with ancient gems and cameos, and bearing minia- tures of that Empress and of her chil- dren Honoria and Valentinian HI. ; it is of Greek workmanship, probably of the 4th cent., and was given to the Nuns of S. Giulia by King Didier. The remaining glass cases contain Majolica and Terra - cotta from Faenza, Urbino, Gubbio, and Deruta ; weapons of the 16th and I7th cent.; and a rich Collection of 5000 Medals bequeathed to the Museum by Count Mazzuchelli. The Galleria Tosi (20, D. 4, 5) is open under the same regulations as the above, and tickets (1 fr.) taken here admit the visitor also to the Piuacoteca (see below). This hand- some palace, and the large collection of Paintings and Engravings con- tained in it, were bequeathed in 1428 to his native town by Count Tosio, distinguished for his taste and patron- age of the arts. Other collections were afterwards added, but these, in- cluding many excellent works by Moretto, have been transferred to the new Pinacoteca in the Palazzo Mar- tinengo. There yet remain the fol- lowing works of Art, distributed over ten rooms. At the top of the stairs Hoiite 53. — Brescia : Pinacoteca Martinengo, 175 are two busts by Monti of Eavenna — one of Count Tosio and another of Galileo. In the ante-room an Ecce Homo, by Moretto. In the second room a small Annunciation, by Mo- retto ; Moroni, Portrait of a man in blue dress trimmed with ermine, sit- ting at a table; * Tintoretto, Portrait ; Girol. dai Libri, some good minia- tures ; *Lorenzo Lotto, Adoration of the Shepherds, with portraits of the Gussoni Family, for whom it was painted ; Cai-paccio, Profile Head, red cap and collar ; Fra Bartolommeo, Holy Family ; Moretto, Daughter of Herodias ; Cesare da Sesto, Head of the Child Christ ; Francia, small Virgin and Child. Third room : *Baphael, The Man of Sorrows, for- merly belonging to the Mosca family of Pesaro, and purchased by Count Tosio for 24,000 francs— a small pic- ture, charmingly executed, and admir- ably preserved (1505); it represents the Saviour crowned with Thorns, and pointing to the wound in His side. In an adjoining cabinet there is a col- lection of drawings by Giulio Romano, Guercino, Appiani, Palagi, Bossi, &c. Among the modern works are two Landscapes by Massimo ^d'Azeglio: one, the Uomo di Ferro of the Or- lando ; a Choir of Friars, by Granet ; the Departure of the Exiles from Par- ga, by Hayez; Sir Isaac Newton studying the etfects of light on soap- bubbles, by Palagi; Tasso reading the Gerusalemme at the Court of Ferrara, by Podesti; Count Ugolino, by Diotti ; and a small mosaic of the Falls of Terni. A long gallei-y is hung with Engravings from the best masters ; at its extremity is a chapel, with a fine statue of the Child Jesus, by Marcliesi, over the altar. Among the sculptures are a young Bacchus, hy Bartolini ; relief of Gany- mede, and of Night and Morning, by Thorwaldsen; headofEleonora d'Este, by Canova; copies, by Gandolfi, of Cauova's bust of himself, and that of Napoleon ; and Pampaloni'a lovely statue of a Child praying, so well known by its numerous copies. There is a fine marble group of the Laocoon by Luigi Ferrari of Venice in a room on the ground-tioor. The Pinacoteca Martinengo, in the Via S. Gaetano, contains all the best works of Moretto, Komanino, and other painters, removed hither from various Churches, as well as those pictures, formerly in the Galleria Tosi, which did not form part of the original bequest of Count Tosio. Adm. daily, 10 to 3 or 4 (1 fr.), the ticket being available also for the Galleria Tosi. Short Catalogue of 1888, 20c. Tfie following pictures are the most attractive : — Annihale Caracci. — St. Francis. Calisto da Lodi. — Nativity, with St. Stephen and a bishop. Civerchio. — SS. Nicholas of Tolen- tino, Sebastian, and Roch, with Christ in glory. Foppa, — Heads of SS. Faustino and Giovita, in fresco. Francia. — Virgin and Children. Gambara. — Apollo with a Cupid, fresco. Moretto. — Moses at the Burning Bush. — Nativity, with SS. Dominic and Jerome. — Nativity. — The Supper at Emmaus. — Portrait of a Cavalier in red and black, holding a letter. — Virgin and Child with SS. Euphe- mia and Justina, and two kneeling bishops. — The Passion. — Virgin and Child with St. Francis, and a donor introduced by an Angel. — Virgin and Children. Palma Giovane. — Christ bearing the Cross. Bomaninoy — Coronation of the Virgin, with SS. Paul, Peter, Joseph, Peter Martyr, and other Saints and donors.— The Magdalene at the feet of Jesus, fresco on canvas. — Supper at Emmaus, fresco on canvas. — Christ bearing the Cross. — Nativity. Savoldo. — Nativity. Vandyck. — Virgin and Children. Venetian School. — Virgin and Child. The *Palazzo del Municipio, or La Loggia, in the Piazza Vecchia, is a beautiful building, intended for a town hall, and commenced in 1492 176 Boute 53. — Brescia: Broletto, by Tommaso Formentone, who raised the edifice to the first lloor. It was continued by Sansovino, who erected the second, and completed by Pal- ladio, who finished the windows ; yet the rich, varied, ciuquecento style pre- dominates, and it is one of the finest specimens of its kind. Three arches form the ground-tloor ; an arcaded court is seen receding beneath them. Above is the council-chamber, with the pro- jecting Einghiera towards the piazza : an open staircase is on the side of the building. The order is a fanciful composite; the pilasters and friezes are covered with rich sculptured scale- work, foliage, and ornamental devices. The entrance to the lower chambers is a small ti'iumphal arch, composed, like the whole building, of rich marbles. The exterior is covered with sculp- tures. The fine series of medallions representing Roman emperors in bor- ders of coloured marble, are by Gas- paro da Milano and by Antonio della Forta. The fanciful candelabra tro- phies by Fostinello, Casella, Colla, Martino della Fesa and Giovanni da Lugano; Justice, and SS. Faustino and Giovita, by Bonometti ; Faith, by Federigo da Bagno — all artists of high merit, though their reputation is lost amidst the greater names of Italy. The magnificence of the in- terior originally fully corresponded with the outside ; but, on the 18th of Jan., 1575, the whole was in flames. The pi'oclamation issued by the governor attributed the fire to design. It was believed at the time that the real instigators were in the Palace of St. Mark, and that the illus- trious Signoria had paid the incen- diary. The motive attributed for the act w^as the wish to destroy certain charters of liberties granted to the Brescians by the emperors, and con- firmed by the republic. Some fine paintings by Titian were destroyed by this fire. The beautiful facade sufi'ered from the bombardment by General Haynau in April, 1849, the marks of several cannon<-balls being Still visible. In the Palazzo della Pretura, behind the Loggia, a staircase in a Court to the rt. leads to a room on the first floor, decorated with well-preserved paintings by Lattanzio Gambara. The Torre dell' Orologio rises upon a picturesque portico and arch in front of the Loggia, and has an enormous dial, put up in 1522, with the numbers from 1 to 24. It marks the course of the sun and the moon ; and two men of metal strike the hours. Near this is a monument to the Brescians who fell in the siege of 1849. The Torre deUa Pallata, at the corner of the Contrada della Face and Corso Garibaldi, is a fine specimen of castellated architecture, with a great projecting base and lofty battlements : it now serves as the town belfry. At the base is a fountain (1596), from the designs of Bagnadore, the sculp- tures by Bonesino and Carra. The Broletto, near the Cathedral, the ancient palace of the republic, is a huge pile of brick, erected between 1187 and 1213. "In the Broletto, sadly mutilated as it is, Brescia has the remains of one of the most exten- sive and grand of these buildings auy where to be seen." — G. E. Street. In the west front is a beautiful door- way and fine rose-window belonging to the ancient Church of S. Agostino. There is an internal quadrangle, with an arcaded cloister on two sides. The terra-cotta ornaments in many parts of the building deserve attention for their beauty, and it may be observed that round and pointed arches are employed indifl'erently throughout. The restored Torre del Fopolo rises at the S. corner, surmounted by a rude belfry and deeply-cleft Italian battle- ments. Here, as everywhere in Bre- scia, the armorial bearings were very wantonly efi"aced by the French iu 1796, while many excellent paintings and objects of historical interest were sold or destroyed. The Broletto is now employed for public ofiices and prisons. Boiite 53. — Brescia : Citadel ; Camjjo Santo. 177 The Biblioteca Queriniana (daily, 11 to 3, except Wed. ; Sun. 2 to 5) was founded in 1750 by Cardinal Querini, a diligent cultivator and munificent encourager of literature. To him we owe the collection of the works of Cardinal Pole, so useful as documents for the history of England. Here he placed his ample collections, adding a noble endowment, which is partly employed in increasing the library. It now contains upwards of 40,000 volumes, including many early printed books and curious manu- scripts. A few may be noticed: — The Evangelarium, or copy of the Gospels, according to the ancient Italian version, written in gold and silver upon purple vellum, of the 9th century. — The Codice Diplomatico Bresciano, consisting of various char- ters from the 9th to the 11th cent., formerly in the monastery of Santa Giulia. — A Koran, upon cotton paper, of early date and great beauty. — The Codex Eusebianus of the 11th cent., with miniatures ; the Liber Poteris Brixise, containing the proceedings of the municipality of Brescia during the 11th, 12th, and 13th cents. ; and the Statute JBresciane, interesting for local history between 1200 and 1385. — Fine MS. of Dante, with miniatures, and another of Petrarch, with minia- tures by And. Mantegna (1470). Among the Private worthy of notice are : — Mansions Palazzo Cigola, near the Qiardini Puhhlici, a good specimen of domestic architecture. It is supposed to have been here that the wounded Bayard was so hospitably received in 1512. Casa Sorelli, at the corner of the Contrada S. Antonio and C. della Pace, has a fine gateway surrounded by reliefs of military ornaments, a man on horseback crossing a bridge, said to be Bart. Colleoni, forming the central one. Palazzo Martinengo Cesaresco, 355, Contrada S. Brigida, is remarkable for its fine architecture. The figures at N. Italy. the entrance are by Jaoopo Medici, a pupil of Sansovino. Palazzo Martinengo della Fabbrica, an extensive and sumptuous edifice, with a fine gate entrance. One cham- ber is covered with *frescoes by Mo- retto, recently well restored ; on each of the walls is a garden scene or land- scape, with a bower in the centre, with family portraits. The gay external decorations of the houses of Brescia formed a peculiar feature of the city; but they are rapidly disappearing. In the Corso Palestro are some curious frescoes, on which Romanino was first employed ; but Gambara having married his daughter, Romanino transferred the order to his son-in-law as part of the young lady's fortune. They represent the Rape of the Sabines ; passages from the Iliad; ^neas ;and Dido; Europa and Jupiter; the Continence of Scipio ; Mutius Scsevola ; Lucretia ; Asdrubal at the feet of Scipio ; and some others, with a great variety of accessory ornaments, showing much fancy and originality. The painted cortile of the Casa Bettoni Cazzago by Mola, in the Contrada Larga, is re- markable for the backgrounds, land- scapes, perspectives of architecture, &c. In the Corso de' Mercanti is a house covered with frescoes by Gamhara ; the subjects are allegorical, and seem to represent youth, manhood, and old The Citadel, erected by the Vis- conti in the 14th cent., occupies the summit of the hill round the sides of which the town is built, and is sup- posed to stand on the site of the Specula Cycnea of Catullus. It was much strengthened by the Venetians, and in later years by the Austrians, so as to completely command the city. From its heights, which command a fine view. Gen. Haynau barbarously bombarded Brescia in 1849. The *Campo Santo, i m. outside the Porta Milano, is approached by a fine alley of cypresses. From the outer semicircular area two gates lead 178 Boute 53. — Bezzato — Deaenzano, into the inner cemetery, between which is a very handsome chapel with a Doric portico, having over the altar a good statue, by Gcnidolfi, of the Angel Gabriel, and over the cornice busts of the different saints of Brescian origin. On either side of this chapel, under the porticoes which flank it, are the sepulchral vaults of the principal families of the province. The monu- ments of Countess Erizzo Maffei, Countess Martinengo Cesaresco di Barco, and Count Tosio, the patriotic founder of the Museum that bears his name, are deserving of notice ; the first two are by San Criorgio, the last by Monti of Ravenna. The cemetery is kept in admirable order ; the poorer classes have each a head-stone, of a uniform shape and size, with a number attached for more easy reference, the cost of which, in- cluding all charges for burial expenses, only amounts to about 6 francs. The high pyramidal monument in the centre is that of Bossini, a benevolent Priest of Brescia. Ely. S. to Cremona, N.W. to Iseo. Steam Tramway to (18 m.) Tormini and (24 m.) Said, in correspondence with the diligence ; thence to (33 m.) Gargnano on the Lago di Garda. At Paitone, 12 m. on the high road to Salb, is a celebrated painting by Moretto (see Handbook for S. Ger- many, Rte. 397). From Tormini a branch Tramway runs N.W. to (13 m.) Vestone (Rte. 74). Tramway also S.W. to (18 m.) Orzinuovi, by (9 m.) Lo- grata; and S.E. to (44 m.) Mantua, by (23 m.) Medole and (26 m.) Gui- dizzolo. Dil. direct in 12 hrs. to (62 m.) Edolo in the Val Camonica, by Iseo, Pisogne, and Breno (Rte. 71). BRESCIA TO VERONA. The Rly. runs through a fertile country at the foot of the last de- clivities of the Alps, and beyond 56 m. Rezzato crosses the Chiese. 62 m. Ponte San Marco lies on the Chiese, which flows from the Lake of Idro. [Roads lead from this Stat, to Salb and Gargnano on the 1., and to Monte Chiaro and Castiglione on the rt.] Moiite Chiaro is seen on the E. acclivity of the hills. 06 m. Lonato. The town lies to the N. on the summit-level of a range of hills that separate the plains bor- dering on the Chiese from the Lago di Garda. There is a large Church with a dome in the centre of the town, and a high square mediaeval tower, which commands a fine view over the Lake of Garda; and towards Verona are considerable remains of mediaeval walls, which form picturesque objects in the landscape. Lonato is celebrated in the early military career of Napo- leon as the scene of one of his most brilliant actions. Here, on the 3rd Aug. 1796, he defeated the rt. wing of the Austrian army commanded by Marshal Wurmser, following it up two days after by the still more decisive battle of Castiglione, which at the time sealed the fate of the Austrians in Italy. Leaving Lonato, the Rly. at first passes through very deep cuttings across old glacier detritus, and through a short Tunnel, about I5 m. beyond which we reach the viaduct of Desen- zano, consisting of 15 pointed arches, a strange fancy of the Austrian engi- neers — the cause, probably, of its in- security : it is built of red Verona marble. Before arriving at the via- duct is seen Desenzano, with its mediaeval castle ; further on, the long sandy spit of Sermione terminated by its Scaligerian fortress ; and beyond, Monte Baldo towering over the N.E. shores of the Lake of Garda, with the hilly region between the latter and the Adige, covered with towns and villas. Immediately after crossing the viaduct we arrive at 69 m. Desenzano Stat., nearly a mile from the town and lake, and at some elevation above the latter. Omn. to the Steamer (50 c, luggage 25 c). The town of Desenzano (45U0) is situated on the S.W. shore of the lake ; immediately above rises a fine old castle, which in mediaeval times com- manded the road between Brescia and Verona. Boute 53. — S. Mariino delle Baitaglie — Peschiera. 179 Desenzano is the point from which the island or promontory of Sermione may best be visited. See Rte. 72, where also is described the Lake of Garda. Carriage to Sdlferino and back (see below). 73 m. S. Martino delle Battaglie. About 5 m. S. of the Stat, lies the vil- lage of Solferino, where the Emp. Francis Joseph was defeated by the French and Piedmontese under Na- poleon III. and Victor Emanuel, in 1859. The Austrian Emperor, having re- ceived large reinforcements, determined to reassume the offensive. On the even- ing of June 23rd the whole Austrian army sallied out from Verona and Mantua, recrossed the Mincio, and occu- pied the principal points of the hilly region, from Pozzolengo on the N.E., by Solferino and Cavriana, to Guidizzolo in the plain of the Chiese ; their line of battle being nearly 12 m. in length ; the village of Solferino, perched on a high hill overlookin.^c the plain, being its centre ; the French being posted from Lonato to Carpenedolo by Castiglione ; and the Piedmontese, who formed the left wing of the Allied Army, from Desenzano to Eivokella, on the S. shores of the lake. On the 24th June, at 5 a.m., the French commenced the battle by at- tacking the 1. wing of the Austrians in the plain of Medole, and soon after the centre of the Imperialists at Solferino ; whilst the Piedmontese, commanded by their gallant King, engaged the enemy's rt. under Marshal Benedek, the most experienced of the Austrian com- manders, between Pozzolengo and S. MaHino. The battle, or rather the several almost independent actions, lasted with varying success until 4 p.m., although for the Allies with hourly in- creasing advantage, when by a supreme effort the French succeeded in carrying Solferino, the key of the position, and establishing themselves solidly on its heights, thus cutting the Austrian line into two ; the result was a general re- treat, the Piedmontese at the same time repidsing Benedek, and obliging him to retire under the guns of Peschiera. The Austrian army is said to have amounted to 150,000 men, the Allied French and Sardinian to a nearly equal number. The losses of the former have been estimated at 20,000 killed and wounded, and 7000 prisoners, with 30 pieces of cannon. The immediate con- sequence of this victory was the invest- ment of Peschiera by the Piedmontese, and the establishment of the French on the 1. bank of the Mincio, preparatory to their laying siege to Verona and Mantua, each party preparing for fresh onslaughts, when the Treaty of Villa- franca (July 11th), so hastily and un- expectedly concluded between the two Emperors, put an end to the war, leaving unattained the object for which it was undertaken as declared by Napoleon III., namely, the liberation of Italy from the yoke of Austria. The Venetian pro- vinces, with their great military strong- holds, remained in the hands of the defeated Emperor. The village of Solferino is remarkable for a high mediaeval tower, probably of the age of the Scaligers, which is known by the name of La Spia cY Italia, from its commanding view. Volta, which de- rives its name from the turn in the direction of the road leading to the passage of the Mincio at Borghetto, lies further S., upon the edge of the plain. The passage of the river at Goito is celebrated for a brilliant success of the Piedmontese anny, commanded by their King Charles Albert, during the campaign of 1849. Both these places are Stations on the Tramway between Brescia and Mantua (see above). Resuming the journey to Verona, the Rly. follows the plain, which is bordered by an amphitheatre of low hills bounding the lake on the S. The views are extremely fine. A few miles further the first de- tached forts of Peschiera are passed on the rt. and 1., and soon after the town and fortress, close to which the Mincio is crossed on a fine stone bridge 50 ft. high, with a road for carriages beneath. 78 m. Peschiera (Buffet), situated partly on an island formed by the Mincio, where it issues from the Lake of Garda, was strongly for- tified, first by Napoleon, and since by the Austrians. It has been the scene of many sanguinary conflicts ; N 2 180 Route 54. — Milan to Genoa. it underwent a siege of seven weeks in 1848, when it surrendered to the Piedmontese under Carlo Alberto. After that time the works were greatly strengthened by the erection of several detached forts, especially on the W. side, and extensive barracks in the island-quarter of the town. It was again invested in June 1859, by the Piedmontese after the battle of Sol- ferino, but its siege was cut short by the Treaty of Villafranca. The town itself (1200), on the rt. bank of the Mincio, is a miserable place. For Steamers on the Lake of Garda, see Ete. 72. The Rly. now proceeds through deep cuttings to 80 m. Castel-nuovo Stat., situated J m. S. of the village, above which are the ruins of a mediaeval fortress. Cas- tel-nuovo was sacked and burned by the Austrians in 1848, for having allowed itself to be occupied by one of the Lombard free corps, which, having landed at Lazise, succeeded in getting between Verona and Pes- chiera, and in destroying the powder magazines of the latter fortress : only two houses and the Church remained intact after this act of military ven- geance. 84 m. Somma-campagna, in a high position on the 1. ; after leaving the Stat. Custozza is seen above 2 m. on the rt., celebrated for a very sanguin- ary action in 1849, between the Aus- trians and the Piedmontese, in which the latter -were worsted. A good deal of deep cutting has been necessary in carrying the rail- road between these two stations. From this place there is a gradual descent over a richly-cultivated dis- trict, until we enter the plain of the Adige, across which the Ely. runs to 92 m. Verona Porta Nuova, whence the line to Mantua (Ete. 103) diverges S. This Stat, is also convenient for travellers proceeding to Botzen and the Tyrol (Ete. 73). Omn. for the Hotels, and a Caffe. The Central Stat, lies further on, at 94 m. Verona Forta Vescovo (Buf- fet). The city is described in Ete. 73. ROUTE 54. MILAN TO GENOA, BY THE CERTOSA, PAVIA, AND NOVI. Miles. Stations. Routes. MHan 2, 18, 32, 53, 101 4 Rogoredo 18 Certosa 23 Pavia 27 Cava Manara 31 Bressana Bottarone 12 Stradella 39 Voghera ... 19 60 Tortona . . . . 19 61 Novi 11 77 Eonco 92 Sampierdarena 94 Genoa . . . .122 Besides the Ely., a Steam Tramway runs to Pavia, passing within J m. of the Certosa, and leaving Milan by the Porta Ticinese (Plan C. 8). No- thing is gained by taking a carriage, as the Church and Monastery may easily be visited by means of a return ticket, or between two trains. The carriage-road, along which inins the Tramway, traverses a remarkably fertile portion of the plain of Lom- bardy. Meadows, rich in clover, yield two or three crops a year ; thick rows of sallows and poplars bespeak the humidity of the soil, luxui'iant even to rankness. On either side of the road are frequent canals for purposes of irrigation. Of these, the largest is the"^ Naviglio di Pavia, which joins the Ticino at Pavia. It was commenced in 1565, but not com- pleted until 1819. The road skirts this canal all the way. From the gate of Milan to Pavia the canal descends 182 ft. 8 in.; there are 13 locks, the whole descent of which is 167 ft. 8 in., leaving for the descent of the canal alone 15 ft. The length is 20 J m., the breadth 42^ ft. At first it forms a considerable stream, but is continually giving off part of its waters for irrigation, and becomes Houte 64:.—Binasco — Certosa. 181 very sluggish on its arrival at Pavia. At the distance of 5 m. from Milan is Cassino Scanasio, near which is a restored mediaival castle of the Trivulzi family. Binasco (5000), halfway between Milan and Pavia, is remarkable for its modernised Castle, still exhibiting the shield of the Visconti. Here the unhappy Beatrice da Tenda. widow of Facino Cane, and wife of Duke Filippo Maria, was by his orders be- headed in the night of Sept. 13th, 1418. Beatrice was a lady of irre- proachable virtue, but was convicted by the false testimony of OromheUo, who, accused as her paramour, in- culpated her in the hope of saving his own life. She was a most affec- tionate wife, and faithful counsellor, and brought her husband vast domains. She was 20 years his senior, and the desire to contract another marriage partly lead to the crime. The tram- way sets passengers down at Mangano, from which place an avenue leads E. in I hr. to the Certosa. By Railway. — On leaving Milan the Rly. soon separates from the line to Venice by Trevigiio. 4 m. Rogoredo. About 2 m. distant is the Cistercian Church of Chiara- valle, well worth a visit (Rte. 101). From hence the line crosses a per- fectly flat country, composed of rice- fields and low-growing copses, and traversed by numerous Canals for irrigation. 18 m. Certosa. On reaching the Convent wall, the traveller turns to the rt., and makes the half-circuit of the enclosure, keeping the Wall always on his left hand— a walk of nearly 20 min. The **CERT0SA DI PAVIA is the most splendid Monastery in the world, and one of the most perfect in its build- ing. It was founded on the 8th Sept., 1396, by Gian Galeazzo Visconti, first Duke of Milan, as an atonement for the murder of his uncle and father-in-law, Bernabb Visconti, and his family. It was begun by Marco da Campione, and continued by Enrico Gomodier. Twenty-five Carthusian monks were appointed to take charge of this sanc- tuary, and executed, down to their expulsion in 1782, the task imposed on them, of augmenting the glory of the Madonna, by adding to the beauty of the Certosa. From 1782 to 1810 the Certosa was occupied by other Orders, and in the latter year it was closed. The Republican authorities, in 1797, caused the lead to be stripped from the roof. In 1843 the monastery was restored to the monks, but on the general suppression of Convents in Italy the building became a National Monument, under the guardianship of a government official. Entrance, 1 fr., including the attendance of the official guide. Ladies are now admitted into every part of the building. The Gateway is adorned with fres- coes of SS. Sebastian and Christopher attributed to J5. Luini — all much in- jured by exposure to the weather. Through this vestibule a quadran- gular court is entered. The building on the rt. is the Foresteria, where visitors in the prosperous days of the monastery were entertained. In front rises the gorgeous Church, with its front of white marble. The outer walls, the buttresses, the wide niches on the exterior of the transept, and the dome are of the fine brickwork peculiar to the Lombard buildings of that epoch. " From whatever side the Certosa is viewed, the perspective lines appear admir- ably disposed ; whether pointed or pyramidal or curved or jutting, they offer infinite varieties of perspective ; all is harmonised, but with variations which relieve the eye and agreeably take possession of the fancy. Guided by a powerful instinct, the architects, besides variety of form and line, studied combinations of materials and colours, relieving the too great dark- ness of terra-cotta by interpolation of marble and surfaces of stucco." — CrTuner. The richly-decorated *'W. front was begun in 1473, from the designs of 182 jRoiite 54. — Certosa di Pavla. "si o !2; cj ill ■2 e a 5 - !S I i I I i .5 ^ 2 I i ^ ^ a I ^ M <1 « £ ffi §,6 5 s a £f is 'C 'C OS S 3 o o o o c c •r C JSIII^I tM '■? -aJPQOfiWfeOtfl ^ g ^ O P^ O" tf P > \ \ I : . ^o • • I I I I • • • • 1 1 I 1 • II 1 CP M< i jriHrTnTT^i l-^'-"--3 Boute 54. — Certosa di Pavia, 183 Amhrogio da Fossano, called JBorgo- gnone, whose reputation rests rather on his powers as a painter than as an architect. This front rises from an extensive platform : four pilasters and two square pinnacled turrets, corre- sponding with the general internal arrangement, divide it into five spaces of nearly equal breadth; upon these spaces that profusion of sculpture is displayed which forms one of the principal features and attractions of this edifice. The central portion is occupied by a richly-decorated Door- way resting upon four isolated Corin- thian columns ; above this is an arcaded Gallery of the Tuscan order, extending over the whole front, and serving as a base to a sort of shrine, on the frieze of which is the dedica- tion to " Mary the Virgin, mother, daughter, bride of God." A second arcade, extending over the three cen- tral divisions, terminates the front, which was never finished. The lavish accumulation of objects is much re- lieved by openings judiciously intro- duced. Each of the pilasters and turrets is adorned with six statues ; the master- pieces, however, of sculpture are to be found on the Portal, and the four beautiful windows near it. The re- liefs on the walls of the central door- way represent, on the rt. the founda- tion of the Church; on the 1. the funeral procession bringing the body of Giovanni Galeazzo to the Certosa (Nov. 9, 1443) ; and above, Pope Alexander III. granting a charter to the Carthusian Order, and the conse- cration of the building. The small reliefs represent histories of SS. Am- brose, John Baptist, Sirus, and the Virgin. The basement is full of curious medallions, with heads of classic heroes and Roman emperors, sacred and profane personages, inter- mixed with arms (the serpent of Vis- conti), trophies, &c. Many first-rate artists contributed to the works in sculpture of the Certosa; among whom were Monte- gazza, Giov. Ant. Amedeo, or Omodeo, Andr. Fusina, Agostino Busti (Bam- baja), Marco Agrate, Gian Gia- I como della Porta, and Cristoforo Solari (II Gobbo), to whom are ascribed the exquisite chisellings in the candelabra, between the windows, and the reliefs on each side of the door. " The outer S. side of the Church, looking from the cloisters, presents the most splendid elevation. Below is seen a graceful portico, the arches of which are supported by slim, well-propor- tioned pillars formed alternately of white marble and of Veronese maudor- lato, and crowned by varied capitals, the arches themselves being corniced with terra-cottas of a fine red. Be- hind is seen one side of the Church, with its chief tapering tower and cupola, all of white stone pierced and wrought into small arcades. Beyond the portico stretches a range of piers, which serve to buttress the internal arches of the nave. These enclose a series of most elegant side- chapels of white marble in the best style of cinquecento architecture, each different from its fellows, all enriched with little figures, grotesque little cupolas and pinnacles, and such like ; the white marble relieved admirably by the dark background of bricks and terra-cotta cornices on the side of the nave, the roof of which is supported by two ranges of arcaded galleries, their arches sustained by pilasters. The very chimneys which emerge from the convent roofs are designed with great architectural elegance ; so prodigal were these men of artistic work, as though seeking in all direc- tions a vent for their exuberant im- agination." — Chuner. Interior. — The plan of the Church is a Latin cross, 249 ft. by 173. The nave has four square bays, each sub- divided on the vault, with oblique and perpendicular groins. The groining of the aisles is singular, each space being in fact covered with five unequal pointed groins, meeting in a common centre. Opening into the aisles are seven chapels on each side. Above them, two Carthusians look down into the nave from a painted window. The Statues in front of the piers 184 Boute 54. — Certosa di Pavia. represent the Evangelists and Doctors ot the Church; they are by tlie best artists of the IGth cent. Kich bronze gates by Milanese artists (1660) divide the nave from the tran- sept. The altars are inlaid with pietra- dura work, executed principally by the Sacchl family, who long lived and w^orked in tlie neighbourhood of the Certosa. The most rare and costly materials are employed. The best marbles are in the 1st chapel on each side, which has two columns of luma- chella degli Ahruzzi, and a gradino (shelf) of lum. cVEgitto. Many good paintings have beenremoved. The best which remain are — 1st chapel on the rt., Camillo Procaccini, St. Veronica (1605) ; Borgognone, small fresco over a side door on the rt., the Madonna, and Angels adoring the Infant Sa- viour. 2nd, dedicated to St. Hugh of Lincoln, Macrino cV Alba, a rare Pied- montese master (1496), Virgin and Child with four Angels, and at each side a Bishop; above, the Resurrec- tion ; beside this, the Evangelists, added by Borgognone. 3rd, Carlo Comara (1668;, S. Benedict, in a vision, sees his sister Sta. Scolastica ascending to heaven. 4th, Borgognone, *Christ on the Cross, with the Maries, a very interesting picture on panel (1490;. The reliefs on the paliotto of the altar are by Volpino. 5th, St. Sirus, said to have been the first Bishop of Pavia, enthroned with SS. Stephen, Lawrence, and two Bishops, on wood ; this, and the fresco in the vaulting, are by Borgognone. Stained glass window, St. Michael, by Antonio di Pundino. 6th, Guercino, SS. Peter and Paul adoring the Virgin and Child. Over the door which leads from the last Chapel into the transept is a beautiful fresco of the Virgin and Child, painted on carpet ; and on the other side of the door St. Catharine of Siena — both by Borgognone. On the N. side, in the 2nd chapel from the W. end, is an altar once decorated with paintings in six com- partments, all by *Pietro Perugino. Of these only one remains. It is in the centre of the upper row, and re- presents God the Father holding a globe surmounted by cherubim. The four Doctors of the Church, attributed to Borgognone, on either side, replace two paintings carried away in 1796 by the French ; the lower range, com- prising the Virgin and Child with an Angel, Kaphael, and Tobias, are old copies of the originals, now in the iSational Gallery in London, having been purchased, in 1856, by the British Government for 4000Z. of Duke Melzi, whose ancestor, one of the active agents of the Cisalpine republic, had obtained possession of them. In the 6th chapel are S. Am- brose on the throne, with his brother St. Satyrus, his sister St. Marcellina, and SS. Gervasio and Protasio, by Borgognone. In the S. Transept is the Carrara marble *Tomb of Gian Galeazzo, the founder, designed by Galeazzo Pelle- grino in 1490, but not completed till 1562. Many artists of unequal merit worked upon it during this long period. Over his statue, recumbent upon a sarcophagus, rises a canopy of the richest cinquecento workmanship. The six fine reliefs represent Gian Galeazzo receiving the baton of com- mand from his father — his creation as Duke of Milan by the Emperor Wenceslaus — his foundation of the Certosa — of the Citadel of Milan — his victory over the Imperialists at Brescia (1402) — and the refoundation or do- tation of the University of Pavia. Tliese are attributed to Giov. Ant. Amedeo. Other parts are said to be by Gio. Giac. della Porta. It seems from the inscription that the monu- ment was constructed by Gian Cris- toforo Romano ; the statues of Fame and Victory, at the extremities of the tomb, are by Bernardino da Novi. That of the Virgin and Child is by Bernardino de' Brioschi. Gian Gale- azzo died at Marignano, 3rd Sept. 1402 : and his funeral was celebrated with extraordinary pomp at the Ca- thedral of Milan. Forty years after- wards the body was removed to the Certosa, but the place where it had Route h4,.—Certosa di Pavia, 185 been interred was completely forgotten when the monument was set up. At the end of the S. transept is a Virgin and Child with SS. Carlo Borromeo and Bruno, by Crespi, and on the vault a fresco, representing the family of Gian Galeazzo Visconti on their knees before the Virgin : he is offering her a model of the Church ; Filippo kneels behind, and his two other sons, Giovanni and Gabriele Maria, on the opposite side. This fresco is by Bramantino, by whom are also the four saints on each side of the arch, and the angels on the entablature above, supporting shields on which the arms of the Vis- conti are surcharged with the mottoes of the Carthusians. Here also are two fine bronze candelabra, by Fontana, and some brilliant stained glass. In the N. Transept are the recum- bent *Effigies of the unfortunate Lodovico il Moro, who died at Loches in 1508, and of his beloved wife, Beatrice d'Este. She was a lady of singular talent and beauty ; and having died at Milan in childbirth, Jan. 2, 1497, he caused this monu- ment to be erected at the expense of 50,000 ducats. Her body was in- terred here ; but the monument was first placed in the Church of S. Maria delle Grazie at Milan, where, about a century after, it was broken up and sold, and the sepulchral effigies pur- chased at a low price for the Certosa, and removed here in 1564. Both are said to be by Solari, and are finely executed : the costume is curious. Before the altar, at the end of the N. transept, are also two fine candelabra, by Fontana; and in the apse frescoes by Bramantino, and a Coronation of the Virgin, by Borgognone. Choir. — The fine wooden doors, with carvings, and reliefs represent- ing the principal events of the life of S. Bruno, are by Virgilio de' Conti ; and the intarsiatura work in the seats by Bartolommeo da Pola (1486), re- presenting heads of Apostles and saints, restored ; the fine balustrade is by Volpino. The four bronze candle- sticks, the reliefs on the walls, beside the altar, and the richly adorned high altar itself are by Fontana. The reliefs before the altar and on the credence table are by Stefano da Sesto. The frescoes which cover the choir are the last work of D. Crespi. Behind the altar is a good window. By the side of the S. transept is the entrance into the Sagrestia Nuova, a very fine hall, now only used as a chapel, and covered with frescoes by Pietro Sorri (1600). Here is an ex- cellent Assumption, the lower part by * Andrea Solari, the upper by Ber- nardo Campi. The pictures on each side are by Solari. B. Luini, St. Am- brose, and St. Martin dividing his Cloak with the Beggar. — Montagna^ the Virgin, with two saints and a choir of angels; beside it St. Peter, St. Paul, and angels, by Borgognone. In the Chapter-house is a relief of the Virgin and Child, with portrait of Gian Galeazzo and his son Filippo Maria, and some illuminated Service books. The Lavatory opens out of the S. transept. At the entrance doorway are reliefs by Amedeo of the Washing of the Disciples' Feet. Above ai-e seven medallions of Duchesses of Milan. Over the fountain is a bust of Enrico Gomodier, architect of the Certosa. — B. Luini, a fresco of the Virgin and Child, the latter holding a flower. The stained glass, by Cristoforo de Matteis (1477), is very beautiful. A staircase leads to the Roof, which can only be ascended by permission of the Prefect of Pavia. A door leads from the Lavatory into the Cemetery. The Sageestia Vecchia is on the opposite side of the choir, and was built in 1478. Over the door are fine medallions of the Dukes of Milan, and reliefs by Amedeo. The Sacristy corresponds in style with the Lava- tory : in it is a curious l6th-cent. altar-piece, worked in hippopotamus ivory, containing 67 reliefs and 80 small statues — all subjects from the 186 Route 54. — Pavia. Old and New Testament, by Bernardo degli JJhhriaclii. On the 1. of the altar is St. Augustine, by Borgognone. Opening out of the S. transept is the Chiostro della Fontana, or small cloister of 50 round arches, and on the terra-cotta frieze Children playing upon Musical Instruments. The fres- coes are by iJttniele Cre^pi, restored in 1854. The *doorway of white marble is a masterpiece of Amedeo. On the S. side is the Lavaho, or foun- tain, from which it takes its name. The fine relief over it, in terra-cotta, represents Our Lord and the Woman of Samaria. *Best view of the Church from this point. Out of the Small Cloister opens the Kefectory, which has some good panelling, a Virgin and Child on the ceiling, and a handsome cornice by Borgognone. From the Chiostro della Fontana, a passage (1. of which opens the Library, replenished by a bequest of Count Mellerio) leads to The *Great Cloister, 412 ft. by 344, with arches of moulded brick, in the finest cinque-cento style. Three sides are surrounded by 24 cells of the monks. Each is a separate dwell- ing, containing four rooms on two floors, with a small garden behind and a covered walk. On the side of the doors are small wickets by which the monks received their meals from the general kitchen, the rules of the Order permitting them to dine toge- ther in the great refectory only on Sundays and great festivals. There are beautiful engravings of these cloisters in Gruner's ' Brick and Terra-Cotta Architecture of North Italy,' and an excellent architectural work on the Certosa, with minute details of its various parts (about 70 plates), has been published by the brothers Gaetano and Francesco Du- relli, of Milan. The battle of Pavia, Feb. 24, 1525 in which Francis I. was taken pri- soner, was fought in the neighbour- hood of the Certosa. The Ely. runs from the Certosa Stat, parallel to the Naviglio, and then crosses the Canal, to the Porta Cavour, outside which is the Stat, of 23 m. Pavia, W. of the town, and i hr.'s walk from the Piazza. Principal Objects : — Cathedral, [San Teodoro], Bridge across the Ticino, San Michele, [San Marino, S. Maria Canepa nuovo], San Francesco, Court of the Castello, S. Pietro in Cielo d'Oro, University, Museo Mala- spina. Carmine Church. PAVIA la Dotta (30,000), the ancient Ticinum, called also the City of the 100 Towers, lies on the 1. bank of the Ticino, a little above its junction with the Po. It was the capital of the Lombard kings, and the gloomy Castello on the N. side of the town is supposed to stand on the site of their palace. The present building, however, dates from 1460-1469. When 'perfect, it formed an ample quadrangle, flanked by towers, two of which remain. The inner court was surrounded by a double cloister, or loggia ; in the upper one the arches were filled in by the most delicate tracery in brick- work. The whole was crowned by elegant forked battlements. In the towers were deposited the treasures of literature and art which Gian Ga- leazzo had collected : — ancient ar- mour, upwards of 1000 MSS., which Petrarch had assisted in selecting, and many natural curiosities. All these Visconti collections were carried to France in 1499 by Louis XII., and nothing was left but the bare walls. One side of the palace or castle was demolished during the siege by Lau- trec in 1527; but in other respects it continued perfect, though deserted, till 1796, when it was again put into a state of defence by the French. They took off the roof, and covered the vaultings with earth ; and when the rains came on in autumn, the weight broke down the vaultings and ruined great part of the edifice. It has since been fitted up as barracks, REi'EKEN^CES TO PLAN. 1 c 2 Duomo 8 C 3 lirivEraiLy. 15 C a Post Office. 2 D 3 S.Michele. 8 D 4 CoUe gio Borrwneo . 16 B 2 SJKetrainCield'Qro. 3 C 3 S.Maria ConepaJ^aova.. 10 C 4 Collegio GaasHeri. 17 (J 2 MxiseoMBlaspmB.. 4 c 4. S. Francesco. 11 B 3 CosUc. 5 c 3 S.MJarino. 12 B 3 Theatre. 6 D 2 S.Tfcodoro. 13 C 2 flroletto. a C 3 Alb.Ckwse Bianca. 1 C 2 SJIariadd Carmine. 14 c 4 Botanical Garden. b tr 3 iAlb.Tre Re. London,; Jo}m/l£urrS'. Andrea ; Piazza Sor- dello; Duomo; S. Barbara; *Cas- tello di Carte ; Archivio ; Accade- mia delle Belle Arti ; *Museum ; Pal. CoUoredo ; House of Giulio Romano ; S. Maurizio and S. Barnaba ; House of 1 D 4 2 D 4 3 D 5 4 F 2 5 E 2 6 G 2 7 F 4 8 F 4 9 E 4 10 E 4 11 D 5 12 D 4 13 D 4 14 H 2 15 E 3 16 C 5 17 D 3 18 C 4 19 E 3 20 E 3 Mantegna; S. Sebastiano; *Palauo del Te. The ancient city of Mantua, from its situation on the fiat and sedgy banks of the Mincio, is anything but healthy ; intermittent and low fevers are frequent in the autumn, and it has no claims to natural beauty. It is surrounded by lakes and marshes ; but the latter were partially drained by the French. The three lagunes, Lago di Metto (N.), Lago Inferiore (E.), and Lago Superiore (N.W.), formed by the swelling out of the Mincio, are maintained by artificial dams and embankments, and crossed by six bridges. The city has water communication with the Adriatic, and there is a dock for small vessels. Mantua is a great centre for the trade in silkworms and their produce. On a market-day during summer the country women may be seen fiocking into town laden with baskets of white and yellow cocoons, or displaying them in the streets for sale. Mantua stands on the "smooth- sliding Mincius." Propter aquam, tardis ingens ubi flexibus errat Mincius, et tenera prjetesit arnndine ripas. So sang Virgil in his Georgics, and the classical scholar will not have forgotten that this was the country of the poet, and that Augustus gave back to him the land of which he had been deprived when the district was divided amongst the Roman soldiers. Accord- ing to Donatus, Virgil was bom at Andes ; a local and very ancient tra- dition has identified this place with Fietole, 3 m. S.E. of Mantua, at the extremity of the Lago Inferiore, sur- rounded by woods and groves, in which the willow predominates, Here is a monument to the Poet, erected in 1848, and a country house of the Gonzaga family, which bears the name of Villa Virgiliana. In the 16th cent. Mantova la Gloriosa was one of the most rich and gay of the courts and cities of Italy. The heads of the Gonzaga family — Lords, or Cap- tains, in 1328 ; Marquises, or Margraves, '^ (rrahoRffmano :m^^''''^ Jjondon/} Johtv Murray, Alhemarle^. Street. Boute 57. — Mantua : History. 199 in 1443 ; and created by Charles V. Dukes of Mantua, in 1539— were men of great talent and energy, especially Giovanni Francesco II. (1484-1519), and Federigo II. (1514-1540), who were munificent patrons and promoters of the arts and of literature. Their successors continued to govern with much wisdom ; and Mantua became one of the most opulent and flourishing cities of Lom- bardy, when the death of Vincenzo II. (1627) was followed by every kind of calamity. It seemed thenceforward as if the house had become fated. Fran- cesco IV. having died without male issue after a reign of ten months, the duchy devolved upon Cardinal Ferdi- nando, his brother. It was more than doubtful whether he had any right to the duchy, for Mantua had not been de- clared a male fief ; and it was considered that Maria, his niece, was the lawful heir. Ferdinand, having by papal licence resigTied his cardinal's hat, married twice. By his first and secret marriage with Camilla Reticina he had one son ; but Ferdinand procured the marriage to be dissolved ; Giacinto Gonzaga was declared illegitimate, and his father married Catharine of Medicis ; but he had no children by her ; and, on his death in 1627, the duchy was claimed by the branch of the family settled in France, then represented by Charles, Duke of Nevers. The right was con- tested ; and the Emperor Ferdinand II. claiming to dispose of the duchy of Mantua as an imperial fief, the country was invaded by Altringer Colalto, and Gallas, names written in blood in the history of the Thirty Years' War. Duke Charles was neglected and almost be- trayed by the Venetians, and feebly supported by the French. On the 8th April, 1630, the imperialists laid siege to the town : famine and pestilence raged within ; but the duke defended himself bravely ; and the inhabitants, knowing what would be their fate, aided with the utmost valour and desperation. On the 18th July, when the garrison was reduced to 1000 fighting men, the city was taken by storm, and during three days was given up to plunder. The Germans on this occasion executed their work of devastation with great system and regularity ; they got ex- ceedingly dmnk ; they neither killed a man, nor insulted a woman, nor burnt a house ; but they stripped the town of everything which it contained. The plunder was valued at 8,000,000 ducats. Previous to the siege the duke had sold large portions of the Gonzaga collec- tions. The plunder of the city dispersed the remainder, with the exception of such of the marbles as remain in the Museum. The best portions were taken to Prague. They were afterwards pur- chased by Christina, Queen of Sweden, who carried them to Rome, where they remained until they were obtained by the Regent Duke of Orleans, and be- came the foundation of the Orleans gallery. Carlo Gonzaga I. regained his duchy by submission to the emperor ; but Mantua never recovered from the blow. The Dukes were in the last century deprived of their possessions by the jurisprudence of the feudal ages. Carlo IV. having unfortunately joined the French in the war of the succession, the Emperor Joseph I. placed him under the ban of the empire, and seized his dominions. The duke fled, and died at Padua in 1707, not without suspicion of poison ; and the Emperor Joseph, de- claring the fief to be forfeited, united it to his own dominions. The last of the family, still a resident here, was a pensioner of the Austrian Government until its fall. The Austrians added to the fortifications, and Mantua became the strongest fortress of the Quadri- lateral, with endless walls, bastions, and bridges. After the fall of MHan in 1796, Napoleon hastened to lay siege to the city (14th June) ; but the forces of Serrurier were only sufficient to keep the garrison in check, and could not prevent the occupation of the city by Wurmser, after his defeat at Bassano. Four unavailing attempts were made by the Austrians to relieve the garrison. After the failure of the last, Mantua could no longer hold out. One half of its numerous garrison were in the hos- pitals ; and they had eaten all their horses. In this extremity Wurmser proposed to Serrurier to capitulate ; the terms were immediately agreed on ; Napoleon set out himself to Florence, to conduct the expedition against Rome ; and Serrurier had the honour of seeing the marshal, with all his staff, defile before him. On taking the city, the French committed many excesses. It was retaken after a bombardment of four days by the Austrians in 1799. It was in a street of Mantua that the 200 Route 57. — Mantua: Ducal Palace, Admirable Crichton was assassinated by six bravos hired by the duke's son, to whom he was tutor, and it is believed that the pupil was present at the com- mittal of the crime, if he did not him- self deal the death-stroke. In the centre of the city there is a long covered arcade, and hereabouts the place shows most symptoms of life ; but the grass grows in the out- skirts, and the marks of ruin, too visible upon many of the buildings, attest the misfortunes which Mantua has sustained. Yet interesting memo- rials remain, to remind us of its an- cient splendour. There are no large squares, but great masses of build- ings, huge piles casting deep shadows, feudal towers crowned with their forked battlements, castles and Lom- bard arches, forming a scene of pecu- liar and novel character. 3000 of the entire population are Jews, by whom much of the trade of Mantua is carried on. **DucAL Palace. — The ancient Castello di Corte, the palace and fortress of the Dukes, was begun about 1302, and enlarged by Ber- tolino da Novara for Francesco Gonzaga IV., Capitano of Mantua between 1393 and 1406. (Entrance in a semicircular recess at the end of the Piazza.) It is flanked by deeply machicolated and noble towers, but battered and decayed. Angels holding an inscription. In the coves of the ceiling are heads in chiaroscuro of the Caesars, also by Mantegna. Another room has a border representing, in small but animated groups, chases of wild animals and fabulous creatures. Adjoining the Castello di Corte is the immense edifice, begun in 1302 by Guido Buonaccolsi, surnamed Bot' ticella, third sovereign lord of Man- tua, now comprising the so-called Palazzo Imperiale, Palazzo Vecchio, and Corte Imperiale, and containing 500 rooms. Of the older building, however, little besides the front, with its Gothic arches and windows, sur- mounted by machicolated battlements, and the arms of the Buonaccolsi in the capitals of some columns, is now in existence. Several artists had em- ployed their talents upon it before Giulio Romano was called upon to transform it entirely, and exhibit new proofs of his genius. Since his time many other artists have contributed in various ways to its embellishment. In fact, for the grandeur of its masses, for propriety, invention, and decora- tions of every kind, for the solution of the most perplexing problems in architectural and pictorial arrange- ment, for the skilful adaptation of designs to the most uninviting and embarrassing spaces, we know no edifice of this kind either in or out The archives contain documents of Italy which approaches this im- reaching as far back as the early part of the 11th cent,, and all those relative Uo' the Gonzaga family are deposited here. The interior was richly decorated with frescoes, which were perfect till the conquest of Lom- bardy by the French ; now only a few vestiges can be traced in some of the rooms, occupied by the public offices. The most interesting are those by Andrea Mantegna, in the Camera DEGLi Sposi on the first floor: on the wall 1. of the entrance, a man and boy holding a horse and dogs; a fine picture of Lodovico Gonzaga, his wife Barbara of Brandenburg, and three children ; and, over the door, a beautiful group of three perial residence, or which displays such varied resources to the student of decorative art. This Palace was the favourite residence of the later members of the ducal house. The Emperor Joseph bestowed much care upon it; parts of it retain something of their former splendour, but a great proportion have been converted into storehouses and barracks. The front of the Cavallerizza, and the Giardino Pensile, on a terrace, so as to be on a level with the upper floor, and sur- rounded with richly-painted Loggt'e^ deserve attention. A suite of rooms is kept well-furnished, but the greater part are empty and desolate ; and in the back part of the building, deserted Boute 57.— Mantua : Ducal Palace. 201 cortiles, and blocked-up windows, and springing vegetation, are sad and dreary memorials of Mantua's decay. Entrance at No. 10, on a line with the Cathedral front, where the Custode will be found (1 fr.). PLAN OF THE DUCAL PALACE IN MANTUA. L AGO I 1 Piazza Arche. 2 Scuderie ReaU. Cda. Ducale. 4 Cda. Giorgio. 6 Cda.del Duomo. Seminario. a Scalcheria (Custode). 5 Camere degli Arazzi. c Camera dello Zodiaco. d Galleria degli Specchi. e Giardino pensile. / Corridor leading to the Corte Vecchia. Beferenceg to the Apartments, g Sala de' Marmi. h Appartamento di Troja. i Corte Vecchia. Tc I Castello, now Archives, wi Sala with portraits of the Gonzaga family. n Gallery. Appartamento Stivali. p Appartamento Paradise. q Passage leading to the Cathedral. r House of B. Castiglione. The Scalcheria., or Koom of the Seneschals on the ground-floor, con- tains a richly decorated ceiling, said to be one of the first paintings which Giulio Komano executed in Mantua. The conception is beautiful, and the execution most careful. The pleasures of the chase, or Sports of Diana, in the 202 Boute 57. — Mantua: Churches, lunettes, are elegant. f On the Upper Floor is The Camera dello Zodiaco, from the painting of the Signs of the Zodiac, restored early in the present cent. : the *Children representing the twin offspring of Orion and the Moon, in the centre, are very beautiful. The Camere degli Arazzi, four in number, once contained a set of tapes- tries from the cartoons of Raphael, removed by the Austrians and now at "Vienna. The stucco ornaments of the doors and wood-carvings are from designs by Primaticcio. On the opposite side of the court- yard is the Galleria degli Specchi, or Ball-room, painted byGiulio Romano's pupils, and having some fine Ve- netian glass. The great audience- chamber, whose ceiling is upborne by consoles, is interesting. The Galleria de' Quadri contains busts of some princesses of the Gonzaga family, and wretched copies of celebrated masters. The *Sala di Troja was painted entirely by Giulio Romano, with illus- trations of passages from the history of the Trojan war. " Ajax, transfixed "with a fiery arrow by Minerva, is strongly and vividly expressed. Min- erva retiring, looks back with scorn upon the impotent rival of her favour- ite Ulysses. When Paris conducts Helen to the ship, the natural feeling of the characters is admirably por- trayed . . . . all is bustle and activity. The frescoes of Laocoon and his sons, and of the completion of the Trojan Horse, are weak, and yet again, in that of Achilles dragging Hector at the back of his chariot, the very spirit , of vengeance seems to inspire him." — Prof. Phillips, B.A. Adjoining these chambers is the Sala de' Marmi (so called from a nuniber of masterpieces of the Grecian chisel which once adorned it), very richly decorated. It is of the time of t See Gruner'8 ' Fresco Decorations.' Giulio Romano. This is connected by a gallery, running along one side of the Cavallerizza, with the Apparta- mento Stivali, painted by Giulio Romano and Primaticcio. Near this last is the Camerino (Boudoir) of Isabella Gonzaga d'Este, called Para- diso, from the view it commands. The ceilings of most of the apartments are of wood, richly ornamented with carvings and stucco-work, by Prima- ticcio and others. They are very curiously varied : in one room the ceiling represents a labyrinth, with the inscription Forse die si, forse die no, repeated in each meander. The Sala de' Mori is the richest ; it is blue and gold. Opposite to the palace, wath its beautiful Gothic windows, stands the house of B. Castiglione, author of the Cortegiano, the friend of princes and painters ; it has a fine gateway with sculptured arabesques ; on one side is the bishop's palace, and on the other that of the Guerrieri family. Close to the latter is an ancient tower annexed to the palace which formerly belonged to the Buonaccolsi ; it was built in 1302 by JBotticella. About halfway up projects an Iron Cage, where criminals were exposed, whence this building derives its name of Torre della Gahhia. On the capture of the city by the French, the cage was taken down, but replaced after- wards by the direction of Napoleon. The tower itself commands a fine pros- pect over the town and lake. CHURCHES. The DuoMo, dedicated to St. Peter (1, D. 4), has been much altered. The S.E. wall, exhibiting a series of Gothic gables, separated by pinnacles of moulded brick, and all richly orna- mented, shows the original style. The massive Lombard camjKinile is un- finished. The poor front dates from 1761. The interior was rebuilt from the designs of Giulio Romano in 1546. The arches of the aisles rest upon Corinthian pillars; the roof of the nave is flat, with richly orna- Route 57. — Mantua: Churches. 203 mented compartments. The large Chapel of the Madonna Incoronata has at its 1st altar rt. a 15th-cent. fresco of the Virgin and Child with St. Leonard. To the 1. of the entrance is a large early Christian sarcophagus, with figures of the Apostles. The Vescovado (12, D. 4), though much modernised, has some good old windows in its upper stage. A broad street leads hence S.W. to the Palazzo della Ragione (13, D. 4) in the Piazza d'Erbe (1198-1250), a fine specimen of the civil architecture of the time. A large archway of brick and stone forms a prominent feature in this building. Inserted in the wall is a Gothic throne and canopy in terra -cotta, supported by twisted columns. Beneath this canopy in a niche is a mutilated sitting Statue of Virgil, wearing the cap of Rector of the people, and holding an open book (early 13th cent.). The lofty Campa- nile has a curious astronomical clock, put up in 1478. It has a number of complicated movements, but is now out of order. At the corner of this Piazza near the Church may be seen a small house- front in beautifully decorated terra- cotta, resting on a portico supported by Corinthian columns. Near this is the Piazza Dante, containing a Statue of the Poet, erected in 1870. *Sant' Andrea has an interior in the Italian or revived Roman style, de- signed by Leon Battista Alberti in 1472. The cupola, by Juvara, was begun in 1732, but not completed till 1781. The great portal is deeply recessed. The Church is about 310 ft. in length, and of excellent propor- tions. It contains frescoes by the scholars of Mantegna. The vaultings of the aisles are very bold and skilful. Notice the painted arabesques on the plasters of the nave. Anselmi exe- cuted the frescoes on the vault of the apse, the crucifixion of St. Andrew, and Campi those in the cupola. In the apse is a kneeling marble figure of Duke Guglielmo Gonzaga, the founder. In the Baptistery, or Chapel of San Giovanni, 1st on the 1., is the Tomb of Andrea Mantegna (1506). His *Bust in bronze by Sperandio, erected in 1516, is an excellent piece of work- manship. The decoration of this chapel is from Mantegua's designs, and includes the Evangelists, and in ovals, the Judgment of Solomon, the Beheading of John Baptist, and the Angel appearing to Zacharias. Be- neath these are the Six Cardinal Vir- tues, and below a row of children holding shields with waving ribbons. In the same chapel is a Holy Family, with St. Elisabeth and Zacharias, by Mantegna. 2nd Chapel 1. — Virgin and Child, with SS. Sebastian, Joseph, Sylvester, and three others, by Lor. Costa. 3rd. — Guisoni, Crucifixion, with Longinus below. The Sarcophagus of the Saint is in the same Chapel ; opposite, that of S. Gregory Nazianzeu. In the rt. transept is the *tonib of Bishop Giorgio Andreassi, resting upon a bronze swan and marble sphinxes, sculptured by Prospero Clementi in 1551. In the 1. transept is the fine monument of Pietro Strozzi, by Giulio Eomano (1529). The brick Gothic campanile (1413), with some beautiful pointed windows, belonged to the original basilica. The tomb of Giulio Romano has unaccountably disappeared. In the Crypt is a small wooden Statue of the Virgin and Child. Sta. Barbara, within the Ducal Palace, was built by Bertani, a scholar of Giulio Romano. Over the high altar is the Martyrdom of the patron saint, by Brusasorci. This Church is exempted from the jurisdiction of the bishop, and is immediately under the papal see ; and the liturgy has some peculiarities of its own. The archives are extensive and curious. The Sacristy contains the large Ark, or Shrine, of St. Barbara in rock crystal, with relics of the Saint. Fine red- I brick Renaissance campanile. 204 Boute 57. — Mantua : Palazzo del Te. Sant' Egidio (F. 3, 4) contains the sepulchral slab of Bernardo Tasso. San Maurizio (E. 2). In the 3rd chapel rt. is the Martyrdom of St. Margaret, by Lodovico Caracci. Near this is San Francesco, a fine building of the 14th or 1 5th cent., but now desecrated. In a small triangular Piazza (E. 3), under which the river flows, is a Statue of Garibaldi ; and, on the Bridge, one of Pope Sylvester. San Sehastiano (G. 2), erected by L. B. Alberti in 1460, has some dilapi- dated frescoes by Mantegna. Opposite to it is the House of Mantegna, the ground on which it stands having been presented to him by Duke Lodovico Gonzaga, with an honorary inscrip- tion. The house is now used us an agricultural school, and close by is the Porta Pusterla, leading to the celebrated **PALAZZO DEL tJi. The only account which seems to deserve credit as to the origin of the name is that which ascribes it to the form of the roads and avenues leading to it, which were so arranged as to produce the letter T. All the old authors, beginning with Vasari, write it DEL T. The Palazzo consisted originally of stables, and Federigo Gonzaga intended to make this build- ing an unpretending country house ; but Giulio, in acquitting himself of his commission, showed so much taste, that the Marquis decided upon trans- forming the new house into a splendid palace, and thus gave the artist an opportunity of applying, in harmonious combination, his powers as Architect, Painter, and Sculptor. Giulio exe- cuted this great work, with the assist- ance of his pupils Primaticcio, G. B. Pagni, and Rinaldo Montovano, in the short space of five years. The princi- pal building, with the large court in the centre, forms a square, each front being about 180 ft. outside, and about 120 ft. in the court. The order of architecture is throughout Doric, tastefully exhibiting all the variety of which this style is susceptible. The hall opposite the principal entrance leads over a bridge into an extensive parterre, which ends with a semi- circular wall, portioned out into 15 niches, probably for statues. At its extremity is a grotto and a loggia, in a tolerable state of preservation. The Ante-room, on the rt. of the entrance, has plaster reliefs by Prima- ticcio and his scholars. Camera dei Cavalli. — Pictures of Gonzaga's horses. This is the oldest part of the building, and that which gave such delight to G. Romano's patron. The ceiling, which is of wood, is finely carved into compart- ments. The horses, truthfully exe- cuted, six in number, and of the natural size, two bays, three white, and an iron grey, are by pupils of Giulio Romano. *Camera di Psiche.—Rich in fres- coes, oil-paintings, and stuccoes, illus- trating the story of Psyche from Apuleius. " The pictorial is wanting to render them agreeable, though it is in this room that Giulio Romano has evidently put forth his strength in force and depth of colours, and in effects of light and shade, particularly in Psyche offering her fruits and flowers to Venus, in her receiving the grapes, in the discovery of Cupid by Psyche, and in some of the beauti- fully composed figures of the lunettes. These pictures are in oil ... . but are far too black. The large pictures be- low are in fresco, and are rich indeed in the important qualities of imagery, invention, and design, but woefully wanting in harmony." — Prof. Fhillips, B.A. Camera dei Cesari. — Frescoes in the lunettes, by Giulio Bomano: Alex- ander discovering the writings of Homer, and Scipio restoring the wife of Mardonius. ♦Camera di Faetonte. — Fall of Boute 57. — Mantua: Palazzo del Te. 205 Phaeton in oil, on the vault. The distribution of this small room is as tasteful as its execution is exquisite. Camera dello Zodiaco. — On the ceil- ing, in stucco, are the winds, and the Signs of the Zodiac : the occupations of the seasons are painted in 16 medallions. Atrio, or Loggia forming the prin- cipal entrance. — Passages from the life of David, executed by Giulio's scholars. The medallions in black stucco are by Primaticcio. A cannon- ball fell through the vaulting during the siege of 1 796, injuring one of the frescoes in the vault. Sala degli Stucchi, in which is a double frieze executed by Primaticcio, from designs of Giulio Bomano, re- presenting the triumphal entrance into Mantua of the Emperor Sigis- mund in 1433, who the year before had created Gian Francesco Gonzaga Marquis of Mantua. The arched ceil- ing is equally rich in stuccoes. *Sala del Giganti. — This was chiefly executed by Binaldo Montovano ; a small portion only was the work of Giulio Romano, who furnished the designs. Jupiter, amidst the heathen gods, hurls his thunders upon the Titans, who, in different actions — ter- ror, danger, and impending death — cover the four walls, down to the very floor. The giants in the foreground are 12 or 14 ft. high. Most contra- dictory judgments have been passed on these paintings. Vasari, Borghini, and all the earlier writers upon art, praise them exceedingly. Others have thought them wanting in taste. " Co- lossal figures in a small room, even where the idea of a supernatural size is intended to be conveyed, are un- satisfactory, as the spectator is quite near enough to perceive details, and finds none, except those belonging to the execution ofthe work, which ought not to be visible."— J?asS'. Gregorio, a similar painting, both by Calisto da Lodi. Monte Ferrone (8676 ft.), a bold granitic peak, rises to the E., and several narrow valleys penetrate in that direction towards Mte. Castello, the most southern of the snowy ranges. [An interesting path leads S.E. by (1 hr.) Prestine to the (3 hrs.) Croce Domini Pass (6500 ft.), by which the upper valley of the Caffaro may be gained. At (4 hrs.) Bagolino it becomes extremely beautiful. Road thence to (14 m.) Lodrone, near Lago d'ldro (Rte. 382, Eandhooh for S. Germany).^ The road crosses the Oglio, and bends round to 54 m. Cividate, very picturesque on all sides. Thence, following the rt. bank, it enters an alluvial flat, bounded by limestone cliffs, to which two huge masses of dark-coloured porphyry in the centre of the valley are singularly opposed. [7 m. below Breno a road branches 1., crossing the stream to Darfo, and runs thence to Pisogne, on the E. bank of the Lake. In the Church are some frescoes by Bomanino. The road hence to Iseo (Omn. twice daily) is a fine construction blasted out of rock or carried on terraces over the lake. It passes through Marone, to 8 m. Sale, and thence by Marasino (where there are some cloth and blanket manufactories), and by Sid- zano, to 15 m, Iseo, an industrious little Boute 7 1 . — Boario — Lover e. 213 town, and the principal port of the Steamers on the lake. It stands on the site of the Koman Sebum, and has I extensive silkworks. In the neigh- i bourhood may be observed the ancient j moraines of the Oglio. I i On the opposite side of the lake is I Predore, with plantations of olive and j lemon, and vineyards producing a strong but excellent wine. The old Tower is said to have been split from top to bottom by two brothers, the one Guelph, the other Ghibelline, who could devise no other method of sharing their heritage. Ely. onward S.E. through a pleasing fertile country to 15 m. Brescia (Rte. 52).] The main road continues S.S.W. along the rt. bank of the Oglio to 60 m. Boario, where there is a Mineral Spring, and a Bathing Esta- blishment. Here the *beautiful gorge of the Via Mala Bergamasca opens out on the rt. (see above). Our road soon reaches THE LAKE OF ISEO. Lacus Sebinus of the Romans (620 ft.), a very beautiful sub - alpine sheet of water, 15 m. long and about 1^ m. in breadth. The Montisola rises boldly from its centre. The vegetation of the shores is rich, and the olive-tree flourishes in the more sunny exposures. Many towei's, castles, and villas are dotted round its shores. The Villa Fenaroli, at Taver- nola, on the W. shore, opposite the Island, commands a fine prospect of the lake and of the small town of Iseo. The Lake of Iseo has the same elongated form as those of Como and Garda, and, like them, fills the bottom of a great trough or transverse valley. It abounds with fish, which from the clearness of the water are visible at a great depth. Its principal feeders are the rivers Borlezza and Oglio, that descend from the Alps through the Val Camonica, and its only exit is by the Oglio at Sarnico ; it is 900 ft. deep in the centre. Its island (Montisola) is the largest of any in the Italian lakes, about IJ m. long, with several villages, Siviano andErzaon theN.E. side, and Peschiera on the S.E. The Church of San Giovanni, crowning a rocky peninsula W. of Lovere, is a conspicuous and picturesque object. 68 m. lOVERE, a busy little town, with an animated Quay on the Lake. It has a large Church, with pictures by Ferramola and Moroni, and in the Tadini Chapel is a monument by Canova, one of the repetitions of that of Volpato, erected by Count Tadini to his daughter, who was crushed by the fall of an arch. In the Palazzo Tadini is an extensive collection of paintings, comprising a Virgin and Child, by Jacopo Bellini, Madonna with Saints, by Paris Bordone, and a Baptism of Christ, by Civerchio(\5?>^). The view from the palace over the Lake is very fine. Near Castro, about 2 m. S. of Lovere, on the shore of the Lake, is the Orrido di Tinazzo, a chasm into which the torrent precipitates itself with a roaring noise. The road from Lovere to Bergamo is carried along it for several yards on arches ; the water below is out of sight. [There is a road N.W. from Lovere to (10 m.) Clusone, and thence S. to Fonts della Selva, whence a branch Rly. threads the Val Seriana to Ber- gamo (Rte. 58). S.W. a good carriage-road runs through the Val Cavallina to (18 m.) Gorlago Stat. (Rte. 58).] From Lovere the traveller may cross the Lake to Pisogne, and walk over the opposite Col to BovEGNO {S. Germanyy Rte. 393) ; or follow the E. shore of the Lake by road or steamer to Iseo^ as indicated above, and thence to Brescia by train. Or he may take the steamer to Sarnico, a pretty little town at the S.W. extremity of the Lago d'Iseo, connected by a bridge with Paratico Stat., on the opposite bank of the Oglio, which here issues from the i Lake. Thence Rly. S.W. to (6 m.) 214 Boute 72. — Desenzano or Peschiera to Biva. Falazzolo Junct., on the main line between Lecco and Brescia (Rte. 58). Rly. S.E.E. to 18 m. Brescia (Rte. 53). ROUTE 72. DESENZANO OR PESCHIERA TO RIVA, BY THE LAKE OF GAKDA. — STEAMER. Steamers on the E. hemic. time. hrsT min. Riva Torbole . 15 Malcesine . 1 Assenza . . . 1 20 Castelletto . . 1 40 Pai . . . . 2 Torri . . . . 2 20 Garda. . . . 2 50 Bardolino . 3 Lazise . 3 20 Peschiera . 3 50 W.lai A-. Desenzano Manerba . . . 40 San Felice di Sco volo 55 Salo (aiT.) . . 1 10 „ (dep.) . . 1 20 Gardone Riviera . 1 35 Maderno . . 1 50 Gargnano . 2 25 Ti^ale . . . 2 50 Tremosine . 3 10 Limone S. Giovar ini. 3 40 Riva . . . . . 4 5 Desenzano and Peschiera are both described in Rte. .53. Omn. from each place to the Steamer on the arrival of the train. From Desenzano an Excursion may be made to the island or promontory of Sermione. The distance by water is .5 m., and by land between 6 and 7 m. In fine weather the row across will occupy 1^ hr. The Peninsula of Sermione, now virtually an island since the cutting of the ditch across the long sandy spit at the extremity of which the village is situated, is well worth a visit; it consists of a ridge of limestone, having at its S. extremity the village and the picturesque Castle, which forms so fine an object of the landscape of the Lake of Garda, and at the N. point some extensive Roman ruins, which tradi- tion has attributed to the Villa of Ca- tullus. According to recent research, they would appear to be the remains of Baths. The village is entered by a drawbridge and a mediaeval gate on the S. On the opposite side is a for- tified wall, through which opens the only gate in that direction. The old Castle, in the form of a quadrangle, with a high square tower, was entered on the N. by a drawbridge. This entrance is still well preserved, as well as its small port or Darsena, surrounded by crenellated battle- ments ; but the principal entrance is now on the side of the village, by a gate over which are shields bear- ing the arms of the Scaligers, and the letters A A., showing that the edi- fice dates from Alboino or Alberico della Scala, and was erected in the 14th cent. The Castle belongs to the Government. There is a curious fragment of an early Christian relief in the wall of a house adjoining the Church. The town of Seimione is chiefly inhabited by fishermen. The whole of the island is one exten- sive olive - garden, the tree here flourishing luxuriantly and attaining a great size. As the tourist proceeds into the interior of the island he will see under the gate a mutilated Roman altar dedicated to Jupiter, and a frag- ment of another inscription. About the centre of the island is the old Church of San Pietro, which contains some curious frescoes of the 14th or 1 5th cent., representing the Cruci- fixion, the Virgin and Child, St. George, &c. Farther on we come upon an oblong building, the walls of which are of Roman construction, called by the local cicerone the Baths of Catullus. A short way beyond this is a subterranean arched passage, and farther on a second larger one, 1 1 1 A L) A N LAKE S Map 1 Boute 72.— The Lake of Garda. 215 which formed the substructions of an extensive edifice, no trace of which remains above ground except a por- tion of the pavement of a court made of bricks laid edgeways and diagon- ally. At the N. extremity of the island are extensive ruins of massive pilasters and arches in a grand style of Roman masonry, formed of alter- nate layers of brick and of the slaty limestone of the locality. They evi- dently supported a large edifice. The spot commands a view of a great por- tion of the lake, including its N. pro- longation into the mountains of the Tyrol, here wild and savage ; the shores of the most fertile portion from GargnanotoDesenzanoononeside,and from Torn and Punta San Vigilio to Peschiera on the other; with Monte Baldo, the gorge of the Adige, and the peaks above Recoaro in the back- ground ; whilst in front are the hills be- tween the x\dige and tbe lake, and the villages of Garda, Bardolino, Lazise, &c., bordering the shores. The high pointed peak on the 1. of the Upper Lake is Monte Fraine, overhanging the val- ley of ToscaJano ; the abrupt point beyond Manerha on our 1. shuts out the 'view of the Bay of Salo : near'the extremity of this point is the island of S. Francesco, covered with orange- groves and olive-gardens. S. of Ma- nerba are the villages of Moniga and Padenglie, remarkable for their fine mediaeval Castles — square structures, with towers at their angles, and still well preserved. THE LAKE OP GARDA. The Lago di Garda (227 ft.), the Benacus of classical writers, is fed chiefly by the river Sarca descending from the Italian Tyrol. Although receiving less water than Lago Mag- giore or Como, it is much more exten- sive ; indeed, more so than any of the Italian lakes. Its greatest depth is 1900 ft. Its upper portion is sur- rounded by high mountains, and ex- cept at the point where the Mincio enters it, the sides for two-thirds of its length are bold and precipitous — so much so that for a considerable dis- tance no road is possible along the shore. On the E. side rises Monte Baldo (7210 ft.), renowned amongst botanists for its varied flora, and pre- senting an inexhaustible field to the geologist. It separates the lake from the valley of the Adige. A long series of phenomena, some of quite recent occurrence, proves Monte Baldo to be peculiarly liable to volcanic dis- turbances. The lower portion of the lake widens out amongst the lower elevations of the subalpine region, and its shores are fertile and dotted with villages. The climate is milder in winter than upon the other Lombard lakes, while the heat in summer is tempered by a refreshing breeze. The olive is much cultivated, and on the W. shore extensive plantations of lemon-trees present a singular appear- ance. The Lake of Garda is more subject to violent storms than those of Como or Maggiore ; and , from the larger expanse of water, the waves rise to such a height as to give it the appearance of an agitated sea. It abounds in fish, tbe principal of which are the trout, pike, tench, eel, two or three species of the carp genus, with the Sardella and Agone, probably different ages of the delicious fresh- water herring that exists in the other Lombard lakes. The perch is entirely wanting here, although so abundant in the more western lakes. There remains evidence that wealthy Roman families were in the habit of sojourning not only at Ser- mione, but at villas which they had built for themselves all along the W. coast, as far N. as Toscolano. The only outlet is the Mincio at Peschiera, which is not navigable, being intercepted by weirs, where great numbers of trout are caught. The introduction of trawling on the Lake of Garda, as on Lago Maggiore, is likely to exterminate this fish, now rapidly decreasing in consequence. DESENZANO UP THE LAKE OF GARDA TO RIVA. Steamer daily in about 4 hrs., leaving Peschiera or Desenzano in the after- TH Boute 72. — The Lake of Garda. 215 which formed the substructions of an extensive edifice, no ti'ace of which remains above ground except a por- tion of the pavement of a court made of bricks laid edgeways and diagon- ally. At the N. extremity of the island are extensive ruins of massive pilasters and arches in a grand style of Roman masonry, formed of alter- nate layers of brick and of the slaty limestone of the locality. They evi- dently supported a large edifice. The spot commands a view of a great por- tion of the lake, including its N. pro- longation into the mountains of the Tyrol, here wild and savage ; the shores of the most fertile portion from GargnanotoDesenzanoonone side, and from Torri and Punta San Vigilio to Peschiera on the other; with Monte Baldo, the gorge of the Adige, and the peaks above Recoaro in the back- ground; whilst in front are the hills be- tween the Adige and tbe lake, and the villages of Garda, Bardolino, Lazise, &c., bordering the shores. The bigh pointed peak on the 1. of the Upper Lake is Monte Fraine, overhanging the val- ley of Toscalano ; the abrupt point beyond Mnnerha on our 1. shuts out the View of the Bay of Salo : near'the extremity of this point is the island of S. Francesco, covered with orange- groves and olive-gardens. S. of Ma- nerba are the villages of Moniga and Padenghe, remarkable for their fine mediaeval Castles — square structures, with towers at their angles, and still well preserved. THE LAKE OF GABDA. The Lago di Garda (227 ft.), the Benacus of classical writers, is fed chiefly by the river Sarca descending from the Italian Tyrol. Although receiving less water than Lago Mag- giore or Como, it is much more exten- sive ; indeed, more so than any of the Italian lakes. Its greatest depth is 1900 ft. Its upper portion is sur- rounded by high mountains, and ex- cept at the point where the Mincio enters it, the sides for two-thirds of its length are bold and precipitous — so ji^uch so that for a considerable dis- tance no road is possible along the shore. On the E. side rises Monte Baldo (7210 ft.), renowned amongst botanists for its varied flora, and pre- senting an inexhaustible field to the geologist. It separates the lake from the valley of the Adige. A long series of phenomena, some of quite recent occurrence, proves Monte Baldo to be peculiarly liable to volcanic dis- turbances. The lower portion of the lake widens out amongst the lower elevations of the subalpine region, and its shores are fertile and dotted with villages. The climate is milder in winter than upon the other Lombard lakes, while the heat in summer is tempered by a refreshing breeze. The olive is much cultivated, and on the W. shore extensive plantations of lemon-trees present a singular appear- ance. The Lake of Garda is more subject to violent storms than those of Como or Maggiore ; and, from the larger expanse of water, the waves rise to such a height as to give it the appearance of an agitated sea. It abounds in fish, the principal of which are the trout, pike, tench, eel, two or three species of the carp genus, with the SardeUa and Agone, probably different ages of the delicious fresh- water herring that exists in the other Lombard lakes. The perch is entirely wanting here, although so abundant in the more western lakes. There remains evidence that wealthy Roman families were in the habit of sojourning not only at Ser- mione, but at villas which they had built for themselves all along the W. coast, as far N. as Toscolano. The only outlet is the Mincio at Peschiera, which is not navigable, being intercepted by weirs, where great numbers of trout are caught. The introduction of trawling on the Lake of Garda, as on Lago Maggiore, is likely to exterminate this fish, now rapidly decreasing in consequence. DESENZANO UP THE LAKE OF GARDA TO RIVA. Steamer daily in about 4 hrs. , leaving Peschiera or jpesenzano in the afters 21G Boute 72. — Salb : Excursions. noon, and Riva at 5 a.m. Fare, 4^ and 2^ fr. Restaurant on board. The departures are in correspondence with the trains from Milan and Ve- nice (see Time-tables). On reaching Riva travellers may proceed at once by tramway or carriage to Mori, and catcli a train over the Brenner to Innsbruck. After leaving Desenzano, the Steamer skirts the bold and singular headland of the Roeca di Manerha, once crowned by a Temple of Minerva, and in the middle ages by an important fortress. Next come the islets of San Biagio and Lechi, surrounded by olives and orange -trees. The latter was occupied by Garibaldi in 1859. Salo (4500), situated at the extre- mity of a small bay, is perhaps the most beautiful spot on the lake. In the Gothic Cathedral is a painting of SS. Sebastian, Anthony, and Roch, by Torhklo. Over the W. door is a carved wooden tabernacle of ten niches, and in the Sacristy a small Virgin and Child. Fine *view from Monte San Bartolommeo. Tramway in 2^ hrs. to Brescia (Rte. 53), by Tormini (Junct. for Vestone). Salo is the chief place on the Western Riviera of the Lake of Garda, a district comprising Gardone and all the villages as far as Gargnano. Not much is heard of Salo before 1121, when its castle was built by the advice of Count Albert INIartinengo, to make head against the inroads of the Imperialists. In subse- quent history, whenever the Salodiani had their own way, they detached them- selves from the government of Brescia and declared allegiance to the Republic of Venice. Their fidelity to the latter endured to the end, and cost them dear. In 1797 the whole Riviera imited in a gallant attempt to reinstate the Venetian governor, who had been dispossessed and imprisoned by the revolutionary authorities, and for a short time the rnovement was successful ; but the ar- rival of a French battalion changed the aspect of affairs, and Salo was given over to the mercies of a ruthless soldiery. Of the once magnificent Palazzo Marti- nengOj only the avails were left. The Austrians, on succeeding the French, |;ook away what few privileges had been preserved ; and Salo was degraded to the rank of a village till 1859, when it regained its former position through the liberation of the country. The decline of the lemon trade since the disease of 1855 has been severely felt at Salo, but the manufacture of a liqueur made from the limes, acqua di tntto cedro, is now carried on with profit. Gardone Riviera, in a charming situ- ation, well adapted for a long stay. Omn. to (4 m.) SaJb, whence a Steam Tramway runs to Brescia. EXCURSIONS. a. By boat to the Isola Lechi. h. To the Church of Gardone di Sopra ; a short but charming walk up paths flanked by ancient bay trees. c. To S. Michele, commanding a splendid view. From S. Michele, it is possible to proceed to S. Bartolommeo, from which not only the whole south- ern basin of the lake is visible, with all its towns, villages, peninsulas and islets, but also the Mincio, the fortifi- cations of Verona, and the valley of the Chiese. d. Monte Pizzocolo (6000 ft.). Fine excursion, but fatiguing. In spring all these hills are covered with flowers, many of which are rare. e. The following four days' trip is recommended: — 1. Leave Gardone by morning steamer for Desenzano ; the afternoon may be devoted to a visit to Sermione or to the battle-field of Sol- ferino. 2. Drive to Peschiera, thence steamer for Riva by the E. shore. 3. Drive from Riva by the Lago di Ledro to Storo or Bagolino. 4. Drive to Vestone, and take the Steam Tramway thence by Tormini (Junct. for Brescia) to Salo. Maderno has a small Basilica, striped black, red, and white, with Byzantine remains. It dates from the 10th cent., and is dedicated to St. Andrew. The capitals, and the or^ament^tjo]l of Boute 72. — Said ; Excursions* 217 doors and windows, are Byzantine. A more ancient building seems to have been used in the construction of the actual church. In the I6th cent., S. Carlo Borromeo ordered the removal I of certain marbles bearing pagan em- ■ blems ; others, however, escaped his ] vigilance. The walls were once j covered with frescoes, but these are effaced by a great coat of mortar. The pedestrian may explore the lovely Val Cartiere (paper-mills). At Toscolano there are several paper-mills, at the foot of Monte Fraine. At Sogliaco, the palace of Conte Bettoni contains fine pictures.- Gargnano (4200), one of the most considerable places on the lake. Large lemon-gardens. In the Church is a damaged painting by Torhido. The Cloisters of S. Francesco are worth notice. Here ends the high road from Brescia. Dil. to (13 m.) Tormini. Tremosine, high up on the rocks, and scarcely visible from the Lake, is reached by a wonderful staircase Path. The Church has some well-carved Stalls, and commands a splendid Limone, about 2 m. from the Tyro- lese frontier. Large lemon planta- tions : first grown here in Europe ; hence the name of the fruit. Here the French embarked Hofer a pri- soner, on his way to Mantua to be shot. In the Church is a Crucifix carved in box-wood, and a Virgin and Child, with SS. Joseph, Anthony of Padua, and Francis, by Torhido. Good carved presses in the Sacristy. The first Austrian village is Prega- sina. A mile further, among the bold rocks on the \Y. shore, the Ponale tor- rent precipitates its waters into the Lake, near which, at the mouth of the gorge, are ruins of a Custom-house. It may be visited from Riva. PESCHIEEA TO EIVA. The Steamer skirts the E. shore of the h^k^ to lazise (2600), surrounded by pic- turesque mediaeval walls. Its Castle, consisting of towers and a dungeon, was erected by Mastino della Scala in the 13th cent. 2 m. S., but a little inland, is Cola (Colle Alto), with a large villa of Count Menescalchi, well known for his researches in oriental literature. Bardolino, a village with battle- ments, walls, and towers, is surrounded by pretty villas, and celebrated for its wine. Garda, a walled village, which gives its name to the Lake, is at the bottom of a deep bay. In the neighbourhood is the palace of Count Albertini of Verona. A little way S. stands a villa of Count Borri, on the site of a Camaldolese sanctuary, where Count Algarotti resided. The pla- teau of Rivoli, the scene of one of Napoleon's decisive victories over the Austrians, in 1797, is an hour's ride from Garda. After passing the pretty promontory of San Vigilio, on which is the Villa Brenzoni, designed by SammicJieli, the steamer runs under Monte Baldo, and touches at Torri, whose castle was built by a Scala in 1383— delightful gardens, and quarries of red and yellow marble, with which many of the buildings of Verona have been decorated. [Road to (8 m. E.) Caprino (855 ft.). Rly. thence to Verom (Rte. 73). 2 hrs. beyond Caprino is the curious Sanctuary of S. M. della Corona (2550 ft.), well worth a visit. The descent may be made on the other side in 2 hrs. by a steep staircase path, to Peri on the Brenner Rly. (S. Gernnany, Rte. 284).] Casteletto and Assenza are islets with ruined castles. Malcesine (2000) has a picturesque castle, restored, and a Church, in which is a *Descent from the Cross, by GioU Jim. The Cohna, or Monte Maggiore (7210 ft.), the highest peak of Monte Baldo, rises above Malcesine. Steep ascent in 6 hrs. Riva (6500) occupies a charming situation at the head of the lake, 218 Itoute 73. — Innahrtick to Verona. Luggage is examined on landing at the Austrian Custom-house. On the W. side of the town the Castel Vecchio stands on a rock. The scenery around is beautiful, and the climate most agreeable, but the chief interest of the town itself centres in its busy little Harbour. It lies at the extreme N.W. point of the lake, hemmed in by precipices on the E, and W., while to the N. are groves of orange and citron, olives, myrtles, vines, and pomegranates. Excursions : — 2 m. S., the road made by the Aus- trians in the direction of Brescia, forms a gradually rising terrace above the W. shore of the lake. It is shady in the afternoon, and commands fine views, but the walk is especially re- commended by moonlight. From the point where the Cornice Road turns into the Val Ledro (Rte. 74), a path descends in 10 min. to the *Falls of THE PoNALE, which are, however, best visited by Boat (2 fl. there and back). Monte Brione (1185 ft.), an hour E., commands fine views, and from Monte Baldo, ascended in 5 hrs. from Nago, a grand panorama will be en- joyed. 4 m. N. is the Castle of Tenno, formerly the residence of the Bp. of Trent. Nearly halfway is Varrone, with a pretty gorge and waterfall (20 kr.). It is a charming drive of 28 m. to Trent, by (4 m.) Arco, and the grand gorge of the Sarca. (See Rte. 383, HaiidhooJc for S. Germany.) Steam Tramway to (11 m.) Mori (on the Rly. to Verona, Rte. 73), through a richly cultivated country, passing Torhole, Nago, and the little Lalce of Loppio. At Torbole, on the E. shore opposite Riva, an interesting experiment in pisciculture is being tried under the direction of the Rev. Don Francesco Canevari, and a society formed for the purpose. Large numbers of trout are artificially bred with a view to ex» porting the eggs, and to re-stocking the river Sarca and the Lake of Garda, where trawling, and the barbarous method of taking fish by the use of dynamite, lime and poisonous drugs, have threatened to depopulate the water. In 1881, two years after the society was founded, 200,000 young trout were placed in the lake and in the Sarca. It is proposed to establish a similar society at Garda. ROUTE 73. INNSBRUCK TO VERONA, BY THE BRENNER. Miles. Stations. Routes. Innsbruck 80 Botzen 115 Trent 130 Eoveredo 142 Ala 145 Avio 149 Peri 156 Ceraino 160 Domegliara 168 Parona 173 Verona (P. N.) . . 53 175 Verona (P. V.) . . 75 The Brenner Railway, made by the Austrian Government, was finished in 1867, at the cost of 28,000/. a mile. It runs not far from the line of the post-road. There are 30 tunnels, two of which are constructed in turves. The gradient is steepest on the N. side, where it sometimes attains 1 in 40. The Pass of the Brenner was pro- bably the road taken by Drusus in the expedition commemorated by Horace — Videre Rlia^ti bella sub Alpibus, Drusum gerentem. Drusum, Genaunos implacidum genus Brennosque veloces, et arces Alpibus impositas tremendis Dejecit acer plus vice simplici. The traveller will be reminded of these lines by the long chain of cas- tellated forts which crown the heights beneath whicl^ the road passes, ao^ Boiite IS.Steinach—Trent. 219 which, though not older than the middle ages, doubtless occupy the sites of the hill-forts so formidable in the eyes of the Roman poet. These Castles are usually so placed as to be visible from one another, or they are provided with isolated watch-towers, from which a signal of fire by night or smoke by day could easily be dis- cerned. By means of this primitive line of telegraph intelligence of foreign invasion was quickly conveyed from one end of the great valleys to the other. The Brenner (4485 ft.) is the lowest carriage-road over the main chain of the Alps ; it is one of the least inter- esting in point of scenery, but is open at all seasons of the year. The car- riage-road was finished in 1772. Innsbruck (1910 ft.) is described in Ete. 278, Handhooh for S. Germany, and the Pass of the Brenner in Ete. 283. Views generally on the rt., as far as the Summit of the Pass. The Ely. ascends the banks of the Sill, crossing and re-crossing the stream, to 15 m. Steinach (8430 ft.), beyond which it turns abruptly E. into a lateral valley to gain a higher level. After passing 24 m. Brenner, on the watershed between the Black Sea and the Adriatic, a similar engineering device is employed, and the train makes a long curve to the W., regaining the main valley at 33 m. Gossensass (3480 ft.), a favourite summer resort. Just below this Stat, the Ely. takes possession for a short distance of the river-bed, the "torrent being made to flow through a tunnel on the rt. At 49 m. Franzensfeste Junct. (2460 ft.) the Pusterthal line strikes off" to the 1. 80 m. Botzen (880 ft.) Junct. for Meran (Ete. 42), 115 m. TRENT (685 ft.). Germ. Trient — Ital. Trento. The most important and prosperous city in the Italian Tyrol (15,000), beautifully situated on the 1. bank of the Adige. Its numerous towers sur- mounted by the stately Buomo, its marble palaces and its ruined castles, all included within a circle of em- battled walls, have from a distance a very imposing aspect. Entered by five gates, it has all the character of an Italian city, nearly unaltered ; many of its houses are painted in fresco on the outside. It was the Tridentum of the Eomans, and the capital of Ehsetia ; afterwards from 1027 to 1803 a prince-bishopric. It rose to high importance and prosperity from the time that the Emp. Conrad the Salic bestowed upon the prince-bishops and their successors the temporal rule over the valley of the Adige and the sur- rounding district. It is still the see of a Bishop, and the chief place of a circle (Kreisstadt). The City Walls are very perfect ; they are attributed to Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoths. The Adige flowed round the town in a curve until 1856, when a straight channel was made for it. The name of the city is derived from the 30 Towers ( Trenta Torri) which it formerly contained. " Montes argen- tum mihi dant, nomenque Tridentum," is inscribed upon the Torre Vanga, or Tower of Bp. Wengo (1208-12), once used as a retreat by the bishops, now a Prison. The Eomanesque *Duomo of St. Vigilius, entirely of marble, begun in 1212 by Adamo d'Arogno, of the Como district, has a remarkable porch, and is surmounted with a dome. The high altar stands beneath an entabla- ture of marble, which is supported by spirally twisted columns. The objects worth notice are— Adam and Eve in white marble ; monuments of various prelates ; porphyry tomb of the Venetian General Sanseverino, who was slain by the Trentines at Galliano (see below) ; the Crucifix used at the sittings of the Council of Trent ; and the flights of steps ascend? ing to the Campanile, 220 Bouie 73. — Trent: Museum. The Piazza contains some fine houses and a marble fountain, with Neptune and Tritons. N.E. of it rises the Torre di Piazza, or City Tower, containing the Bengo, a Bell which was tolled when the podestk or bishop wanted to collect the citizens. Santa Maria Maggiore, of red mar- ble, was rebuilt ^520) by Bp. Ber- nard of Cles, on the site of an older Church, of which the S. porch and tower remain. In it were held several sessions, including the last, of the celebrated Council of Trent, which met at intervals from 1545 to 1563. A curious but bad painting of the as- sembly, containing portraits of the members — 7 cardinals, 3 patriarchs, 33 archbishops, 235 bishops, 7 abbots, 7 generals of orders, 146 professors of theology — is shown in it. The Can- toria or Organ Gallery, carved with Scripture subjects, Sibyls, foliage, and ornaments in white marble, is a fine work of Vincenzo Vicentini (1534). S. Pietro had its facade restored in 1850, in honour of the child-martyr S. Simone da Trento, murdered by Jews in 1475; his skeleton is shown in a glass case, with a gold crown given by the Queen of Spain. The Castello del Buon Consiglio, E. of the town, close to the Piazza d' Armi, an episcopal stronghold during the middle ages, is an edifice of enormous extent, surrounded by deep ditches. It now serves as Barracks, and is shame- fully dismantled. The massive, round Torre di Augusto, with walls 9 ft. thick, said to be Roman, adjoins an interesting court with arcade in four stories. Many of the walls and rooms are painted in fresco, in a bold, good style ; some of them are probably those mentioned by Vasari as the work of Girolarm da Treviso; others may be by Romanino, who was invited to Trent in 1540, by Cardinal Madruzzo, to paint the castle ; others may be by Fogolino. There is another episcopal Castle, in ruins, outside the town. Fine *view from the Capuchin Church, which rises behind the Castle. Many interesting though dilapidated houses deserve notice : — Pal. Zamhelli, hnilt by a Fugger of Augsburg ; Casa Taharelli in the Contrada del Teatro. In the Municipio, near the Cathedral, is a Museum, containing bronzes, various curiosities, and local antiquities. Among these are the *Clesian Tables, with inscriptions of the time of Clau- dius, found at Cles in the Val di Sole, and of considerable geographical interest. The Archaeological Collection formed by Count Giovanelli includes inscriptions, a Situla in bronze with Etruscan characters, and numerous pre-historic remains. There are also minerals, shells, fossils, and a fine bust by Alessandro Vittoria, a native of the town. Dos Trento (950 ft.), rising beyond the bridge on the rt. bank of the Adige, was fortified by the Eomans under Augustus, who called it/' The Wart," Verruca. Admittance is not readily granted. Its rocky sides and bushes, moreover, swarm with vipers. At the foot of the rock is the Church of St. Apollinaris, with Roman remains, said to have been a temple of Saturn. The chief produce of the district is wine and silk. The rearing of the silkworm furnishes occupation to a large part of the population, and the lower part of the valley is covered with mulberry-trees. The festival of St. Vigilius, the patron saint (26th of June), collects an immense number of people from the surrounding country. The Pergine road leads E. into Val Sugana, afibrding a direct and delight- ful route by Bassano and Treviso to Venice (Rte. 87). W. strikes off a beautiful road by (8 m.) Vezzano, passing the strong fortress of Buco di Vela, and (13 m.) Le Sarche, to (24 m.) Arco, a frequented health-resort in winter. Thence to (28 m.) Kiva, on the Lago di Garda, from whose little port Steamers ply down the lake to Peschiera or Desen- zano (Rte. 72). The Ely. continues to descend the 1. bank of the Adige, whose lower valley is termed Val Lagarinq, to Bouie 73. — Galliano — Peri. 221 125 m. Calliano, at the entrance to the Val Folgaria. Here the valley contracts to a narrow pass, where the Venetians under Sanseverino, who was slain, were defeated by the Trentines in 1487. On a height to the E. rises the Castle of Beseno, commanding a fine *view. The Kly. now twice crosses the river. To the rt. are seen the Ruins of Castelharco, at one time be- longing to the most powerful family of the Val Lagarina, afterwards a strong frontier fortress of the Venetians. With a bend to the S. the Ely. reaches 130 m. Roveredo (680 ft.), a flourish- ing town of 10,000 inbab., on the 1. bank of the Adige, which belonged to the Venetians down to 1509, when it was taken by the Emp. Maximilian. It is the centre of the silk-trade of Tyrol, and has numerous paper mills. There are 27 Filande (mills where the silk is unwound from the cocoon) in the town and neighbourhood, giving employment to 2300 persons, the principal being the Filanda Bettini. There are also 36 spinning-mills (Filatorie), moved by the stream of the Leno, manufacturing yearly 173,000 lbs. of silk thread, and giving employment to 343 men and 820 women. The Castle, in the Piazza del Po- desta, once the residence of the Vene- tian Governor, is now the Town Council Office. Its tower has the appearance of a lighthouse more than a fortification. ' E. a good road runs through the Valle de' Signori to Schio (Rte. 76). 2 m. S. is the castle of Lizzana, the hilly site of which alone exists, marked by a modern house, on the 1. of the Rly . Here Dante, when exiled from Florence (1302), and living at the court of the Scaligers, was some time entertained as a guest by the lord of Castelbarco, its owner. It must have been during his residence here that he observed that singular scene of desolation called Slavini di San Marco, which is tra- versed by the Rly. just beyond Mori. It is, as its name implies, an avalanche of stone, occasioned by the fall of a vast mass of the oolite and clay strata of the mountain, which has strewn the valley as far as Serravalle with huge fragments of rock. This ruin is thus alluded to by Dante, in his de- scription of the vestibule of hell : — Qual' e quella ruina, che nel fianco Di qua da Trento, 1' Adice percosse, per tremuoto, o per sostegno manco : Che da cima del monte, onde si mosse Al piano, e si la roccia discoscesa, Ch' alcuna via darebbe a chi su fosse. Inferno, xii. 4, 10. 133 m. Mori, famed for asparagus. Steam Tramway for Riva on the Lago di Garda(Rte. 72), crossing the Adige. 142 m. Ala (415 ft.), the frontier Stat. (BuflFet), where carriages are changed (Custom House and exam- ination of luggage); a town of 3700 inhab., once famed for a flourishing manufacture of velvet and silk. [An interesting path strikes S.E., up Val Konchi, and crosses the CoUe della Lora or Bivolto into the romantic basin of Becoaro (Rte. 80). This is one of the most picturesque approaches to that charming spot.] 145 m. Avio, on the rt. bank of the river, is the last Stat, in Austria. Here is a Castle of the Castelbarco family. The long mountain ridge on the rt., separating the valley of the Adige from the Lago di Garda, culminates in Monte Baldo (7210 ft.), rich in botanical treasures. 149 m. Peri is the first Stat, in Venetia. 3 m. beyond it, high up on the rt., is seen the singular sanctuary of Madonna della Corona (2550 ft.), built in a cave among the precipices of Monte Baldo, and reached by a flight of 676 steps (p. 217). The Rly. penetrates the famous defile of the Chiusa (Berner Klause), 3 m. long, through which the Adige rushes, flanked by precipices of lime- stone on either side. The Emp. Fre- derick Barbarossa, returning from Rome to Germany with his army in 1155, here found his passage stopped 222 Moute 73. — Ceraino — Verona. by a body of Veronese, who had occu- pied the heights. He was saved from a degrading submission by Otho of Wittelsbach, who climbed the heights in the night Mith 200 chosen men and drove the Veronese over the precipice. 156 m. Ceraino, at the N. extremity of the defile. Above the river are some forts, one of which stands E. on the site of the old Venetian castle, another W. on a rock, commanding not only the road and ravine of the AdigC; but the iiilateau of Eivoli oppo- site. At Rivoli Napoleon gained one of his earliest and most decisive vic- tories over the Austrians (1797). The French set up a monument on the field, which was afterwards destroyed. Our line is crossed by the local Rly. between Verona and Caprino before reaching 160 m. Domegliara. 12 m. S. is Custozm, where the Austrians de- feated the Piedmontese in 1848, and the Italians in 1866. Still further S.W. beyond the Mincio, but out of sight, lies Solferino (June 24, 1859). At 168 m. Parona the Rly. crosses the Adige, and at S. Lucia enters the line from Milan to Venice. The re- markably wide circuit by which the city is approached was doubtless a precaution of military engineering. 173 m. Verona Porta Nuova Junct. (see Rte. 53). Rly. S. to Mantua (Rte. 103). The main line goes on to the Central Stat, at 175 m. Verona Porta Vescovo. Tram- way between the two stations, tra- versing the town, every | hr. from 7 till 7 ; fare 10 c. PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN TOPOGRAPHICAL ORDER. Church of *S. Anastasia ; *Duomo ; Vescovado, and Biblioteca Oapitolare ; S. Eufemia ; Piazza dei Signori ; Pal. del Consiglio ; * Piazza cleUe Erbe ; S. Maria 1' Antica, and * Tomhs of the Scaligera ; Corso ; Porta dei Borsari Piazza Vittorio Emanuele ; '^'^■Ampld theatre ; Museo Lapidario ; *Castel Vecchio, and Bridge ; *S. Zenone ; S, Bernardino ; Porta Stuppa. Porta de' Leoni ; *S. Fermo ; Ponte delle Navi; **Pinacoteca, and Mu seum of Antiquities ; S. Tommaso Cantuarense ; *Pal. Giusti Gardens ; SS. Nazaro e Celso, S. Maria in Or- gano, *S. Giorgio Maggiore, and S. Giovanni in Valle ; Castel di S. Pietro ; Ponte della Pietra. VERONA. PAGE Adige river 223 Amphitheatre 223 Arena 223 Arsenal 225 Baptistery 232 Basiione Boccare 225 della Maddalena 225 Biblioteca Capitolare 233 Bishop's Palace 233 Bridges 223 Cappello, Osteria del 242 Capulets, House of the 242 Casa Mazzanti 227 Ca,-telbarco Monument 235 Castel Yeccbio 225 Cathedral 231 Cemetery 243 Churches : — S. Anastasia 233 SS. Apostoli 235 S. Bernardino 235 S. Elena 235 Eufemia 235 S. Fei-mo 236 S. Giorgio 236 S. Giovanni in Fonte 232 S. Giovanni in Valle 237 S. Lorenzo 237 S. M. Antica 227 S. M. in Organo 237 S. M. delia Scala 238 SS. Kazaro e Celso 238 S. Paolo 238 S. Pietro in Cattedra 233 S. Pietro Martire 236 SS. Siro e Libera 238 S. Stefano 238 S. Tommaso 239 S. Zenone 239 Cloisters of SS. Apostoli 235 the Cathedral 232 — S. Zeno 241 Consiglio, Palazzo del 226 Dante, Statue of 226 Erbe, Piazza 227 Hxchange 227 Garibaldi, Statue of 229 Gates 225 Giolfino, House of 235 Giusti Gardens 242 GranGuardia 226 Moute 73. — Verona: Boman Bemains. 223 PAGE Juliet, Tomb of . . , 242 Library 242 Loggia ,. ... 226 Maffei, Palazzo 242 Mosaic Pavement 232 Miiseo Lapidario 231 Museum of Antiquities 229 Palazzo Pompei 229 Picture Gallery 230 Prefettura 227 Roman Theatre 224 Sammicheli, Statue of 226 Tomb of 239 Slgnori, Piazza dei 226 Theatres 242 Tombs of the Scaligers 227 Tribunale 227 Vescovado 233 Ticolo di San Matteo ...... 225 Yittorio Emanuele, Statue of .... 226 VEBONA — La degna — a beautiful, interesting, and pleasant city, nobly placed (160 ft.), contains 62,000 inhab., and a garrison of 6000 men. It was probably founded by the Euganei, and on becoming a Roman colony grew into one of the most flourishing cities 'of N. Italy. From its vicinity to the Alps, the climate is somewhat sharp, but healthy. The river Adige flows rapidly through the city, dividing it into two unequal portions, and turning numer- ous floating water-mills moored across the stream. It is crossed by five bridges, of which the Fonte della Pietra is a Roman work, with two of the ancient arches still remaining, the rest restored in 1520. The floods of the Adige are tremendous. One, which took place in the I3th cent., is commemorated in the ancient frescoes of San Zenone. By such a flood in 1757 the Ponte delle Navi was en- tirely carried away, and in 1882 it was again seriously damaged. On the 31st of August, 1845, alter three days' hard rain, the greater part of the town could only be traversed in boats. The same thing took place in Sept. 1882, when the Ponte Nuovo Was completely swept away by the floods. The treaty of Luneville in 1801 gave the smaller portion of the city, on the 1. bank, to Austria, the re- mainder to the Cisalpine republic. In 1822, the Congress of Verona, convened chiefly with reference to the affairs of Spain, was held in the Palazzo Castellani, where Prince Met- ternich resided for the time. The city was surrendered by AuS' tria along with the rest of Venetia, and now belongs to the kingdom of Italy. The neighbourhood is fertile, and yields grain, wine, and fruit ; but the main branches of industry are con- nected with silk and rice. REFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 B 6 Duomo. 2 C 6 S. Anastasia, 3 D 2 S. Bernardino. 4 B 2 S. Zeno. 6 c 5 S. Eufemia. 6 E 6 S. Fermo. 7 A 6 S. Giorgio. 8 B 8 S. Giovanni. 9 C 7 S. Maria in Organo. 10 c 6 S. Maria Antica. 11 i) 8 S. Nazaro e Celso. 12 A 7 S. Stefano. 13 F 5 Tomb of Juliet. 14 i) 5 Amphitheatre. 15 C 4 Porta dei Borsari. 16 D 6 Porta dei Leoni. 17 C 6 Tombs of the Scaligers 18 E 6 Pinacoteca. 19 D 7 Pal. Giusti. 20 D 4 Teatro Filarmonico. 21 C 6 Post Office. 22 D 4 Museo Lapidario. HOTELS. a C 6 Torre di Londra. b D 4 Colomba. ROMAN REMAINS. The ♦* Amphitheatre or Arena is entered from arch No. 5, on the W. side (fee 1 fr.). It is supposed to have been built between a.d. 81 and 117, the date of the Coliseum. The in- terior is nearly perfect, owing to the continuous care bestowed upon it. Most of the other Roman amphi- theatres have sufiered exceedingly from having been converted into for- tresses, as at Aries and Nismes, or into quarries, as the Coliseum. The outer cir- cuit was greatly damaged by an earth- quake in 1184. The ruined portions appear to have been carried away, but the mass itself was diligently pre- served. By a statute passed in 1228 it was enacted that every Podesta, on Boute 73. — Verona: Boman Bemains. 223 PAGE Juliet, Tomb of . . , 242 Library 242 Loggia 226 Maffei, Palazzo ........ 242 Mosaic Pavement 232 Museo Lapidario 231 Museum of Antiquities 229 Palazzo Pompei 229 Picture Gallery 230 Prefettura 227 Roman Theatre ........ 224 Sammicheli, Statxie of 226 Tomb of 239 Signori, Piazza del 226 Theatres 242 Tombs of the Scaligers ,22? Tribunale 227 Vescovado 233 Ticolo di San Matteo 225 Vittorio Emanuele, Statue of .... 226 VERONA — La degna — a beautiful, interesting, and pleasant city, nobly placed (160 ft.), contains 62,000 inhab., and a garrison of 6000 men. It was probably founded by the Euganei, and on becoming a Roman colony grew into one of the most flourishing cities of N. Italy. From its vicinity to the Alps, the climate is somewhat sharp, but healthy. The river Adige flows rapidly through the city, dividing it into two unequal portions, and turning numer- ous floating water-mills moored across the stream. It is crossed by five bridges, of which the Ponte delta Pietra is a Koman work, with two of the ancient arches still remaining, the rest restored in 1 520. The floods of the Adige are tremendous. One, which took place in the I3th cent., is commemorated in the ancient frescoes of San Zenone. By such a flood in 1757 the Ponte delle Navi was en- tirely carried away, and in 1882 it was again seriously damaged. On the 31st of August, 1845, alter three days' hard rain, the greater part of the town could only be traversed in boats. The same thing took place in Sept. 1882, when the Ponte Nuovo ■was completely swept away by the floods. The treaty of Luneville in 1801 gave the smaller portion of the city, on the 1. bank, to Austria, the re- mainder to the Cisalpine republic. In 1822, the Congress of Verona, convened chiefly with reference to the afi"airs of Spain, was held in the Palazzo Castellani, where Prince Met- ternich resided for the time. The city was surrendered by Aus- tria along with the rest of Venetia, and now belongs to the kingdom of Italy. The neighbourhood is fertile, and yields grain, wine, and fruit ; but the main branches of industry are con- nected with silk and rice. REFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 B 6 Duomo. 2 C 6 S. Anastasia. 3 D 2 S. Bernardino. 4 B 2 S. Zeno. 6 C 5 S. Eufemia. 6 E 6 S. Fermo. 7 A 6 S. Giorgio. 8 B 8 S. Giovanni. 9 C 7 S. Maria in Organo. 10 (J 6 S. Maria Antica. 11 D 8 S. Nazaro e Celso. 12 A 7 S. Stefano. 13 Jb' 6 Tomb of Juliet. 14 D 5 Amphitheatre. 16 (J 4 Porta dei Borsari. 16 D 6 Porta dei Leoni. 17 6 Tombs of the Scaligers 18 E 6 Pinacoteca. 19 D 7 Pal. Giusti. 20 D 4 Teatro Filarmonico. 21 S^^reei. They are enclosed by a beautiful iron railing or trellis-work, consisting of open quatrefoils, in which the Scala, or ladder, the armorial bearings of the family, is conspicuous. The origin of the family of the Scaligers {Delia Scala) is not known. We find them at Verona in 1035. In 1257 two brothers, Bonifacio and Federigo della Scala, of the patrician order, were beheaded by Ezzeliuo da Romano. Their fate first gave the name a place in history. In 1261, after the death of Ezzelino, the unanimous voice of the people of Verona, then a free town, i-aised Mastino della Scala to the office of " Capitano del Popolo." He had been a soldier of fortune in the army of the tyrant. He governed q2 228 Houte 73. — Verona: Tomhs of the Scaligers. Verona wisely and moderately for 15 years. After escaping several state conspiracies, he was killed by some of the members of a disaffected family, who considered that he had aggrieved them by delaying the pnnishment of an offender against their honour (1277). This assassination took place under the archway in the Piazza dei Signori ; which retains from that circumstance the name volta harbara to this day. The Tomb of Mastino on the rt. is a plain sarcophagus, ornamented only with a cross in relief The original inscription is preserved on the wall above. Mastino was succeeded by his bro- ther Alberto I., who, during 24 years, kept the turbulent factious in order, and sowed the seeds of commercial prosperity. These two superior men were the founders of the greatness of their house. Alberto, who had served as Podesta of Mantua, was esteemed and loved for his pacific virtues ; and was installed amidst the shouts of " Viva Alberto, assoluto oggi e per sempre " ; and if any portion of the legal power of the old commonwealth had still existed, it now wholly ex- pired. Alberto died in 1301. Further on, to the rt., a sarcophagus, without inscription, is attributed to Alberto by immemorial tradition. Upon it is sculptured the Signore, riding in full state, with sword in hand. SS. Cristina and James beside him. On the other side he kneels before the Virgin and Child, with two Angels. To Alberto succeeded his second son, Bartolommeo, a gentle and humane prince, who died in 1304. In his time lived Komeo de' Montecchi, and Giu- lietta de' Cappelletti, immortalised by Shakespeare. Upon the death of Bartolommeo, Alboino I. was called by acclamation to the supreme authority. Henry of Luxemburg was then prosecuting his plans for the re-establishment of the imperial prerogative ; and Aiboino in 1311, surrendering his authority as Capiiauo del Popolo, received it back from the Emperor as Imperial Vicar in Verona ; a concession by which the dignity was confirmed to the family. Alboino, a feeble ruler, called in the assistance of his brother Francesco, better known as Can Grande, w^ho Avas associated with him by the Emp. Henry VIT. as joint vicar of the empire. The Tomb of Albonio, the central one among three on the left, is of doubtful authority. Cangrande was a Ghibelline in heart and soul ; his court was the most magnificent of the age in Italy, and exhibited a combination of mili- tary splendour and profuse hospitality with liberality to the stranger and encouragement to literature. His palace became the refuge for all who, entertaining his political opinions, had in anywise subjected themselves to persecution ; and it was here that Dante found an asylum, having been first received by Alboino. Can Grande, or the Great Dog, died in 1329. History throws no light on the origin of his strange nickname. His Tomb, executed by Bonino da Campiglione, stands over the portal of the Church. Upon the sarcophagus the Signore is extended in his peace- ful robes, girt with his sword ; above, on a pyramid, is the equestrian statue of the warrior, in full armour. The sarcophagus rests upon figures of mastiff dogs supporting the shield charged with the ladders. Cangrande was succeeded by Alberto II., his nephew. Then followed Mastino II,, nephew of Alberto. From his time the history of the family, instead of exhibiting statesmen and heroes, becomes a melancholy and revolting picture of misfortune and crime. Mastino II. was vain, weak, and unprincipled. He was surrounded by a brilliant Court ; Treviso, Vicenza, Bassano, Brescia, Parma, Reggio, and Lucca; all acknowledged him as their lord ; and he had won Padua from the powerful family of Carrara. Having abandoned the imperial party, he was fixed upon by Pope Benedict XII. as the head of the league or alliance of the Guelphs against the Visconti, Boute 73. — Verona : Picture GaUenj and Museums. 229 leaders of the Ghibellines. But he lost several of his most important possessions, and died in 1351. The Tomb of Mastino II., at the entrance on the left, also exhibits the double effigy ; the equestrian >f arrior on the pyramid, and the recumbent sovereign on the sarcophagus. It was executed by Perino, a Milanese sculp- tor, in 1 380. The first of the three sarcophagi on the left is that of Cangrande II., who built the Castel Vecchio, and the ad- joining bridge over the Adige. He was murdered in 1359, after a troubled reign of eight years, and succeeded by his brother, Can Signorio. On his death-bed he ordered the execution of another brother, Paolo Alboino, the crime being instigated by his desire of preserving the succession in his own descendants, which he feared might be endangered if this brother had been suffered to survive him. Next to insuring the inheritance of Verona to his sons, his most earnest passion was the erection of a sumptuous mausoleum during his lifetime. High up on brackets, adjoining this Tomb, is the Monument of G-iovanni della Scala (1350), with statues of the Virgin and Child, SS. Anthony of Padua, James the Less, James the Greater, and Francis. The Tomb of Can Signorio (d. 1375), which rises in stories, surmounted by an equestrian statue, is exceedingly elaborate. The plan is hexagonal ; and six Corinthianised Gothic columns support the lower story. The base- ment is surrounded by an iron trellis, of richer pattern than that of the rest of the cemetery. Upon the pilasters which support it are the warrior saints, Quirinus, Valentine, Martin, George, Sigismund, and Louis, in black mar- ble, formerly gilded. Beneath the gable of the third story are allegorical figures of Virtues : Faith, with the star upon her breast ; Prudence, Charity, and three others. The figure is recumbent upon a sarcophagus. An inscription in Gothic letters, just above the two E. columns, preserves the name of Bonino da Campigh'one, who was both the sculptor and the architect of this sumptuous pile. The Piazza dell' Indipendenza, near the Post Office (C. 6), has a small Garden, and an equestrian Statue of Garibaldi, by Bordoni. j PICTURE GALLERY AND MUSEUMS. The *Pinacoteca forms part of the Museo Oivico at the Palazzo Pompei alia Vittoria (E. 6). The Palace itself, a handsome edifice, the front consist- ing of a Tuscan or rustic basement, surmounted by an elegant Doric por- tico, was an early work of Sammicheli, and was bequeathed by its last owner, Count Pompei, to his native town for its present purpose. Adm. 1 fr. ; Nov. to March, 9 to 3 ; Apr. to Oct., 9 to 4. Free only on the IstlSun. in the month. On Sun. and Holidays, open at 10. The Ground-floor contains a series of casts from Canova's principal works, bequeathed by Marquis Pindemonte ; a very interesting collection of fossil plants, and of fishes, from Monte Bolca, formed by the late Professor Masso- longo ; several Etruscan and Koman antiquities, collected by Count Verita, including fragments from the Roman theatre near the Ponte della Pietra, and a very rich Collection of Coins. There are also Pre-historic remains ; flint implements, terra-cotta lamps, glass vases, and various objects dis- covered in recently excavated Tombs, together with Etruscan tomb-figures and sarcophagi, and a few good busts and fragments of sculpture. Among the most interesting are five mutilated statues in Greek marble, and a torso bearing the name of Praxiteles, found in the cloister of the Duomo ; three capitals ; a Head, probably of Drusus ; Christian urns ; and a valuable collec- tion of 48,000 coins. Among the bronze pieces should be observed the Victoria Partica, crowning the Emp. Vespasian. There are also upwards of 22,000 medals, considerably damaged 230 Boiite 73. — Verona: Picture Gallery. by the floods of 1882, and not yet finally re-arranged. In the vestibule is the great Bell, cast in 137«), formerly in the tower of the Piazza delle Erbe. The *Picture Gallery was removed in 1858 from the Palazzo del Con- siglio, and is now arranged in a hand- some suite of apartments on the first floor. Here only, or in the Churches of Verona, can be properly studied the works of Girolamo clai Lihri (1472- 1555), Coro^fo (1470-1546), and 3Ior- ando, often styled Cavazzola (1486- 1522), a pupil of Francesco Morone, The first three rooms contain the collection bequeathed by Dr. Bernas- coni. This part of the Gallery is full of pictures with false names, while many (Uhers, whatever may have been their value originally, are spoilt by repainting. Koom V. contains some very beauti- ful illuminated *Service Books, with miniatures by Girolamo dai Lihri, Liherale, and others. The following List of Pictures is arranged in alpha- betical order of Painter's Names : — Basaiti: 115 St. Stephen. Bassano : 214 Venetian Senator. Bellini (Giacomo) : 344 Fresco of the Crucifixion, repainted. Btllini (Giov.): 77 *Virgin and Child, an early work. — 86 Presenta- tion in the Temple. — 200 Virgin and Child. Benaglio : 152 Virgin and Child. Bonifazio : 260 Christ washing the Disciples' feet. Bonsignori : 148 Virgin and Child. Caravaggio: 12 Joseph's Coat brought',to Jacob. Carotto : 92 Virgin and Children. —114 Holy Family.— 119 Virgin and Child.— 263 St. Catharine.— 272 Ado- ration of the Child. —297 Christ washing the Disciples' feet; Virgin and Child, with David above. — 336 Virgin and Child, with SS. Zeno and Peter Martyr. — *Tobias and the Arch- angels. Catena: 147 Adoration of the Magi. Cavazzola {Morandoj ; 85 Virgin and Children.— 277 * Virgin and Child with SS. Francis and Dominic, sur- rounded by Angels holding Instru- ments of Passion; below SS. Eliza- beth of Hungary, Bonaventura, King Louis, Tvo, Bp. Louis, and Elzearius ; head of Countess Sacco, the donor in the foreground — the painter's last work (1522). — 296 ♦Incredulity of St. Thomas ; Ascension, and Descent of the Holy Ghost, in the background. — 299 *Scourging of Christ. — 302 *Crowning with Thorns. — 304 St. Bonaventura. — 318-320 *Agony in the Garden, *Descent from the Cross, Bearing of the Cross (151 7) : — *Fresco of the Baptism in the Jordan, 12 ft. square, with the Evangelists in medal- lions. Cima da Conegliano : 99 Virgin and Child (1510). Cimahue : 339 Old Testament Sub- jects, in 30 sections. Correqgio : 93 Boy's Head. Criveili: 334 Virgin and Child. FaJconetto : 187-191 Figures in a Landscape. Farinati : 13 Christ at the Column. Francia: 155 Virgin and Child with Saints and Angels. Giolfino: 252 Virgin and Child. — Half-length Allegorical figures, in fresco. Girolamo dai Lihri : 138 Virgin and Child.— 264 Baptism of Christ. —267 Virgin and Child, with SS. Hubert and Sebastian. — 276 Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter and Andrew. — 278 Holy Family with Tobias, in a fine landscape. — 223 *Virgin and Child, with SS. Joseph, John Bapt., and Jerome ; fine landscape. Liherale : 315 Descent from the Cross. Lucas van Leyden : 335 Crucifixion. Mantcgna : 87 *Virgin and Child, with two Saints. — 258 Pagan Sacrifice, on parchment. Marti no da Verona : Virgin and Child, with SS. Zeno, James, and Apollonia (fresco). Michele da Verona: Four Heads — SS. Michael, Paul, Peter, and John Bapt. — ascribed to Cavazzola. Montagna: 76 *S. Biagio and a Bishop. Boute 73. — Verona : Catlieclral. 231 Mow (Antonio): 97 Portrait. Mm'one (Francesco) : 182 Virgin and Child. — 2G5 St. Catharine and donor.— 275 The Trinity, with the Virgin and St. John. — Virgin and Child with four Saints (fresco). PaoJo Veronese: 240 *Full-leugth portrait of Count Pace Guarienti (1556). Faolo Veronese (School of): 31 Baptism of Christ. — 257 Deposition. — Music ; a fresco transferred to canvas. Parmegianino : 153 Holy Family. Perugino (School of) : 34 Virgin and Children. Piazza (Calisto da Lodi) : 95 Virgin and Child with Elizabeth and St. John. Stefano da Zevio : 341 Virgin and Child in a fanciful bower of birds and flowers, with St. Catharine and Angels, on gold ground. Tiepolo : 70 Saints. Torhido: 9 Portrait.— 49 Tobias (ascribed here to Moretto). Tnrone : 331 Ancona in five com- partments, the Trinity and Saints (1360). TJmbriaii School : *Adoration of the Magi. Unhnoitm : Virgin and Child, with SS. Onofrio, Jerome, a Bishop, and Christopher. A gallery at one side of the court contains a number of Engravings given by Count Alessandro Pompei. The MusF.o Lapidario (22, D. 4) contains a valuable Collection of an- cient Inscriptions and Reliefs, dis- posed in a Court or beneath arcades. Near the entrance on the left, Ascle- pius and Hygieia, early Greek reliefs. It was begun by the Accademia Filar- monica in 1617; and Scipione Maffei bestowed upon it his collections, adding to their value by the descrip- tion which he published of them in the Museum Veronnese. Many im- portant additions have been subse- quently made, and the collection is full of monuments illustrating points of archseology and of local interest, though a considerable number were never returned from Paris after being carried off there in 1797. CHURCHES. The *CATHEDRAL of S. M. Matrico- Jure (B. 6) is attributed on insufficient authority to Charlemagne, before whose time a Church existed here, erected on the site, and with the ma- terials, of a Temple of Minerva. The episcopal chair was transferred hither from S. Stefano in 806. The greater part of the existing Cathedral was probably rebuilt in the first half of the 12th cent., as a new Sacristy was built in 1160, and in 1187 Urban III. re-consecrated the edifice. The E. apse, and a portion of its sides, are in a very different style from the rest of the building, and perhaps a rem- nant of the original Roman church. The vaulting was begun in 1402, but not finished till 1514. In 1534 the choir, screen, and S. chapels were al- tered under the direction of Sammi- clieli. The fine Italian Gothic front is injured by a huge clock-face in the Loggia. The handsome porch must have formed part of the new building, and belongs, therefore, to the 12th cent. Four columns, two resting on griffins, support two arches, one over the other. This treatment seems to have been common in Italy in the 12th and l3th cents. The *Paladins, Roland and Oliver, who guard the entrance, may be supposed to have been introduced with reference to the traditionary con- nection of Charlemagne with this building. The Lombard imagery no longer appears as an ornament of the mouldings, but the under-side of the arch which forms the vault of the porch exhibits a variety of grotesque images and symbols. On the 1. of the door, Orlando holds the sAvord with which he is fabled to have cleft the Pyrenees ; upon the blade its name is inscribed, Du- rin-dar-da. His shield is pointed at the bottom, and ornamented with a species of Etruscan scroll-work. His 1. leg and foot are armed in mail ; the rt. leg and foot are bare. Opposite is his companion Oliver, armed not with a sword, but with a truncheon or 232 Route 73. — Verona: Cathedral. mace, to which is appended a ball held by a chain. In the semicircle over the entrance is an ancient relief, representing the Adoration of the Magi : beneath are three female heads, -nell executed, in- scribed Fides, Sjjes, Car Has. To the 1. of the door, on the central moulding of the splay, 7 ft. from the ground, is a hog standing on his hind-legs, dressed in a monk's robe and cowl, and holding in his fore-paws an open book, upon which is inscribed a. b. PORCEL. The S. porch consists of two ranges of columns, with strange mystical or satirical sculptures. The spacious Nave has clustered columns Avith curious capitals and pointed arches. The more modern portions are exceedingly rich. An in- scription over a door in the N. aisle commemorates the celebrated Facifi- cus, Archdeacon of Verona (778-846). His name is written in three languages — Pacificus, Salomon, Irenxus. Seven churches were founded by him at Ve- rona, and he repaired the cathedral 30 years after Charlemagne's death. Between the 1st and 2nd altars on the rt. is the monument of the poet Antonio Cesari (1846), with good statues of Religion and Poetry, surmounted by his bust. In scraping the whitewash from the walls of the aisles, some good fres- coes were discovered: those on the N. side are attributed to A. Mantegna, on the S. to Falconetto. The paintings are in good preservation and the colours brilliant. 2nd altar rt., *Lihe- rale, Adoration of the Three Kings, with a rich landscape ; at the sides, Giolfino, SS. Eoch, Anthony the Her- mit, Bartholomew, and Sebastian. 3rd rt., Morone. SS. James and John Evan., with the head of the painter below. 4th rt., Giolfino, the Last Supper. *The Chapel of S. Agata, at the end of the rt. aisle, has a fine sculptured shrine of the saint, of the I4th cent. ; the pilasters at the en- trance, covered with handsome ara- besque reliefs, were executed in 1508. The choir, with its curved colonnaded marble Screen, is by Sammkheli. On each side is a Chapel with good ara- besque reliefs on the pilasters. The bronze Crucifix over it is by Giovanni Battista da Verona (fl. 1500). Its walls and mouldings are painted in fresco by Francesco Torhido, from the designs of Giulio Romano. In the 1st Chapel 1. is the *Assumption, by Ti- tian, M'hich was taken to Paris.— " The execution is of high excellence." — Cic. 3rd left, Predella, by Giolfino. In the Sacristy, SS. Peter and Paul, by Morone. The Baptistery, or San Giovanni in Fonte, is said to have been re-built between 1122 and 1135, after having been destroyed by an earthquake in 1116. In the centre is a large octa- gonal *Font, 31 ft. in circumference, hewn out of a single block of yellow Verona marble. A frieze of small Lombard arches,supported by grotesque heads, runs round the summit. Oa the faces are represented (1) the An- nunciation ; (2) Visitation and Nati- vity ; (3) Angels appearing to the Shepherds ; (4) Adoration of the Magi ; (5) Herod commanding the Slaughter of the Innocents; (6) Execution of his Decree; (7) Flight into Egypt; (8) Baptism in the Jordan. The sculpture is in a rude style. In the middle of the great basin there is an inner one of red marble, quatrefoil in shape, intended for the priest to stand in whilst the catechumens were being immersed in the larger basin. The picture of the Baptism, on the 1. of the entrance, is by Farinati. Opposite is a good Venetian Virgin and Child, with SS. Andrew, Jerome, John Bapt., and a Bishop. On the walls are re- mains of frescoes. The Cloister had originally a double arcade, still retained on the E. side ; each arch rests on a pair of columns, and each pair is of a single piece of red marble, the capitals and bases being united. Within its area was disco- vered in 1885 a * Mosaic Pavement below the present level, 400 ft. by 52, supposed to have been IBaths. Traces of a Temple of Minerva were also JRonte 73. — Verona : S. Anastasia. 233 brought to light, including a column, still left in situ, while other fragments have been removed to the .Museum. The picturesque little Church of S. PiETRo IN Cattedra, close to the Duomo on the S., is now a private Chapel, and contains nothing of inte- rest. The Biblioteca Capitolare, entered from the cloister, is one of the import- ant collections in Italy for sacred and Patristic literature. It was first formed by Pacificus, and contains a large proportion of very early MSS., some of the 4th and 5th cents. Here Petrarch first read the Epistles of Cicero ; and the library is yet an un- explored mine for the historical, eccle- siastical, and liturgical enquirer. Many of the MSS. are palimpsests, and one of them furnished the ' Institutes of Gaius,' an elementary treatise designed for the use of law students, and pre- senting a synoptical review under three heads (persons, things, actions), of the jurisprudence of the time of Antoninus Pius, and Marcus Aurelius. It was -••own that this treatise was the founda- tion of the ' Institutes of Justinian,' but not a fragment of it could be found. "A rumour, devoid of evidence," says Gibbon, "has been propagated by the enemies of Justinian, that the Jurispru- dence of ancient Rome was reduced to ashes by the author of the Paudects, from the vain persuasion that it was now either false or superfluous. With- out usurping an office so invidious, the Emperor might safely commit to ignor- ance and time the accomplishment of this destructive wish. Before the invention of printing and paper, the labour and the materials of writing could be pur- chased only by the rich ; and it may reasonably be computed that the price of books was a hundredfold their pre- sent value. Copies were slowly mul- tiplied and cautiously renewed : the hopes of profit tempted the sacrilegious scribes to erase the characters of anti- quity, and Sophocles or Tacitus were compelled to resig-n the parchment to missals, homilies, and the golden legend." Years after the death of Gibbon his sagacity was verified by the zeal of Niebiihr, who, when on his way to Eome in 1816, examined this Library ; two small fragments relating to Juris- prudence, not palimpsests, had been published by Maffei, but he had not ascertained their author. Niebuhr sus- pected that they were parts of the ' In- stitutes of Gaius ' ; and upon further examination he discovered nearly the whole of the remainder palimpsested beneath the homilies of St. Jerome. In the process of destroying the overlying homilies and restoring the text beneath by means of an infusion of gall-nuts, some portions of the parchment were rendered illegible, but in the main the lost work has been reproduced. Of the other palimpsests is a Virgil of the 3rd or 4th cent., imder a commentary by St. Gregory on the Book of Job, in Longobardic writing of the 8th. It may be older than the Virgil in the Lauren- tian Library at Florence. Here also may be seen the baptismal certificate of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the young Pretender, dated " Roma, ultima "Decemb. 1720 " ; — a diptych of the Consul Anastasius in the 6th cent. — and inedited poems by Dante. The Vescovado (Bishop's palace), adjoining the Cathedral on the E., has been altered and rebuilt at various periods, but principally about the year 1356. Its entrance court with fanciful columns is striking, and affords a good view of the picturesque apse of the Baptistery. In the Chapel are three small paintings by Liberale — the Nativity, Adoration of the Magi, and Death of the Virgin, and a Raising of Lazarus, by Carotto. Facing the en- trance is a fine colossal *Statue of a crowned female with the artist's name, Alessandro Vittoria. It was intended to be placed, with three others, on the corners of the Tower, but the Aus- trians forbad the completion of the work. *Sant' Anastasia (2, C. 6) is one oi the most complete and representative Gothic brick Churches in the N. of Italy. The main fabric was begun in 1260, the casing of the front in 1426. The reliefs on the latter are incom- plete. Two panels of a pilaster on the rt. represent the Preaching and Death of St. Peter Martyr. Of the W. door- way architects speak with enthusiasm. " You feel," says Mr. G. E, Street, 234 Route 73. — Verona: S. Anastasia. " as though Fra Angelico might have painted such a door iu a Paradise, and as though it were too fair to be real." The woodwork should be noticed for its simple effective design. In the in- terior twelve circular pillars support pointed arches and separate the nave from the narrow aisles. The short choir terminates in an apse of five sides. The transepts are short, with two chapels opening out of each ; and in the angle between one of them and the choir is a square tower, terminat- ing in an octagonal spire. All the arches and vaultings are obtusely pointed. The springing of the middle vault hardly exceeds the points of the arches into the aisles; and the win- dows of the clerestory are circular and very small. '1 he Church is 75 ft. wide and 300 ft. long. It appears to have been originally entirely covered with frescoes, but many of them are almost destroyed ; those, however, in the spandrels of the vaulting are re- markable for their beauty and fine preservation. The two basins for holy water are supported by grotesque figures ; that on the 1., an inverted capital, has its stem sculptured by Ga- hn'ele Caliari, the father of Paolo Vero- nese. The *Fregoso Chapel (1st rt.) has a monument by Danese Cattaneo (1.565). 2nd rt. St. Vincent, by Bo- tavi : above is a curious fresco, in bad preservation. This and the next altar are surrounded by boldly executed arabesque reliefs of tortoises, lizards, birds and their nests, &c. Above the 3rd rt , frescoes by Liherale. 4th, Vir- gin and Child, with SS. Anthony the Hermit, and St, Martin, by Carotto. The last chapel contains a curious loth-cent, piece of sculpture, a co- loured Entombment, with half-lengths of S Apostles below. Here also is a wooden Crucifix, and an iron Lamp. In the rt. transept : the *Virgin, SS. Thomas Aquinas and Augustine, a kneeling friar, and two donors, an ex- cellent picture, by Gir. dai Libri. Good frame, and on the rt. of the altar a fine Tomb. The Cliapel of S. Gemi- fjuano, furthest from the choir, has fine frescoes (probably by Alticlikrii con- nected with the Cavalli family, and a Gothic tomb.t The next is the Pel- hgrini Chapel, in which are curious 15th-cent. reliefs in terra-cotta, of the life of our Saviour. The Descent from the Cross is the best, to the rt. of the window. Here are also two good red marble Gothic monuments of the Pel- legrini, and some frescoes, in which portraits are introduced of members of the Alighieri and Bevilacqua families ; on the rt. wall is the Virgin and Child with saints, angels, and donors ; oppo- site, a similar painting. Over the arch is a St. George, much injured, by Vittorio Tisamllo; the foreshorten- ings aud projections, as usual, remark- ably skilful. In the Choir, on the 1., is the equestrian Statue and *Tomb of Cortes ki Serego (1432), brother-in-law and general of Antonio della Scala. 1st Chapel in the 1. transept: curious frescoes in the style of Mantegna, and a fine tomb of the LavagnoU family (15S0). The next Chapel, where the bells are rung, has a good Tomb, aud frescoes of SS. Mary Magd., Catharine, and another, by Liherale. The Sa- cristy is entered by a beautifully inlaid door, over which is a huge ugly pic- ture, the Council of Trent, by Fal- cieri, with no merit as a work of art, but curious as a nearly contemporary memorial of that assembly. "Within, Brusasorci : Saints, and portraits of members of the Dominican order. The 4th Chapel on the N. side was built from the designs of Sammiclieli : the altar-piece, in a Giottesque- style, contains portraits of Mastiuo II. della Scala, and his wife Taddea Carrara, kneeling before the Virgin, injured by time ; the features of Mastino are re- markably expressive of his character. Above is the Descent of the Holy Spirit, by *Giolfino; higher up, the same subject, by Micliele da Verona. 2nd left, SS. George and Erasmus, by Giolfino ; 1st left, coloured figures, by MlcJiele da Verona. Cenotaphs have been erected of Cossali, author of the Storm Critica deJV Algebra, a work of great merit; Cagnoli, the mathema- tician ; Targa, the translator of Celsus ; t Tlie Arundel Society has published ' The ]\Ioniiments and Frescoes in the Cavalli Chapel,' by John Ruskin. Boiitp 73, — Verona: Churches. 235 and Loren^i, a poet. The pave- ment is formed of most tasteful de- signs in white, grey, and red marbles. In the middle of the Piazza is a white marble sitting Statue of Paolo Ve- ronese, erected in 1888. On the N. side is the interesting I4th-cent. Gothic Chapel of San Pietro Martire, which, with the adjoining buildings, now the Liceo, formed a part of the convent of Sant' Anastasia. Over the entrance, "supported on a large slab of stone, corbelled forward and balanced upon the top of a thin well " (Street), is the ♦Monument of Guglielmo da Castel- harco (1320), the friend and adviser of the Scaligers, and one of the chief benefactors of S. Anastasia. Its Gothic canopy is supported by four shafts of white marble, beneath which res*s the red marble sarcophagus, supported on the backs of couchant lions, and bear- ing the recumbent effigy. "As far as I know or am able to judge (says Mr. Ptuskjn), the most perfect Gothic sepulchral monument in the world, my most beloved throughout the length and breadth of all Italy ; — chief as I think among all the sepulchral marbles of a land of mourning." There are three other good 14th-cent. tombs within the courtyard. On the E. wall of the Chapel are some damaged frescoes by FaJconetto. SS. Apostoli, close to the Porta dei Borsari (C. D. 4), has three canopied Tombs, an old Tower and Apse, and (on the S.) a fragment of a very picturesque Cloister in two tiers, with round arches, and coupled shafts of red marble. Nearer the gate is the House of Giolfino, covered with dam- aged frescoes. San Bernardino (D. 2) is flanked by two cloisters full of decayed and broken tombs. The Church was built about 1499, after the great pestilence, and restored in 1859. It has a fine rood and organ-loft. In the 1st chapel rt, are some damaged frescoes by Giolfino. In the 2nd, Bonsignori, the Virgin and Child with SS. George and Jerome (1488). 4th rt. restored frescoes. Life of St. Anthony, by Bom. Morone. 5th, Crucifixion, by F. Morone (1498), and three frescoes of Passion Scenes by Giolfino. In one of them tlie painter has introduced a view of the Piazza di Bra (now Vit- torio Emanuele) as it stood in his time — an interesting topographical me- morial. Further on is one of the finest works of Sammicheli, the little circular *Cappella Pellegrini, " whose beauty, we think, lias scarcely ever been sur- passed, and which exhibits, in a strik- ing degree, the early perfection of the Venetian school. It was not finished under Sammicheli, and blemishes are to be found in it ; it is, nevertheless, an exquisite production, and, in a sur- prising small space, exhibits a refine- ment which elsewhere we scarcely know equalled." — Gicilt. In the Choir on the 1., the Virgin and Child with SS. Bernardino, Peter, Paul, Francis, Anthony of Padua, Louis, and Jerome, by BenagJio. On the organ doors, SS. Francis and Bernardino ; beside the Choir-arch, SS. Louis and Bonaveutura ; both by Morone. In the Cloisters, frescoes by Giolfino ; in the Refectory, entered from a door beyond the Convent gateway, frescoes by Morone, discordant, however, in style, Sta. Elena, adjoining the Baptistery of the Cathedral, contains some curious ancient inscriptions, and the Tomb of Theodorius, cardinal in 1177. Behind the high altar is a painting by Felice Brusasorci, of St. Helen and other saints. Sant' Eufemia (5, C. 5), a fine brick building of 1262, but modernised, has a I5th-cent. front, with a large sarco- phagus of Count Sanguinetti, supported on consoles. In the chapel on the rt. of the choir are frescoes by Carotto, representing the History of Tobias. 3rd chapel rt., D. Brusasorci, the Virgin and Child, with SS. Sebastian, Monica, Augustine, and Roch ; in the background, SS. Christopher and Peter Martyr. 1st chapel 1., Moretto, SS, Paul and Anthony the Hermits. Many interesting Tombs were de- 230 Route 73. — Verona : Churchea. stroyed when this Church was repaved. Outside the door (over which is a faded I5th-cent. *fresco of St. Augustine, by Stefaiio da Zevio) is a monument to Marco and Fier Antonio Verita, by Sammicheli, who also designed tlie Cloisters, now included within the Scuola Tecnica. The antiquary and historian Panvinio and Cardinal Noris were Austin friars in the convent of Sta. Eufemia, and Fracastoro was buried here. ♦San Fermo Maggiore (E. 6). This Church " afibrds the best detail of brickwork in all Italy."— (?. E. Street. Its foundation may be traced as far back as 731, though the Crypt does not appear to have been built before 1065. It originally belonged to the monks of St. Benedict, passing to the Franciscan friars in the 13th cent. The rows of little arches are some of them trefoil-headed. The W. door is round-headed, with a pro- fusion of ornamented mouldings. Above the four lancet windows with trefoil heads, is a smaller triple win- dow, and a circular opening on each side of it. The building ends in a gable, whose cornice is loaded with ornament, with three pinnacles. 1. of the principal entrance is the sarco- phagus of Cangrande's physician, Fracastoro. The interior is in a fine and bold Gothic style (1313-1332). The singular open Roof is of larch. In the Alighieri Chapel (S. transept) are two sarcophagi of the last members of the Dante family. They were erected by Francisco Alighieri, sixth in descent from the poet, to the memory of his brothers Pietro and Lodovico. The Torello Saraina Chapel (3rd rt.) was built by the historian of Verona of that name in 1523. Opening out of the N. aisle is a Chapel erected about the beginning of the 16th cent., by Giulio Battista, and Eaimondo della Torre, to the memory of their father Girolamo and their brother IMarc Antonio. Both father and son were professors at Padua, and enjoyed the highest reputation. The monument, a lofty altar-tomb, was decorated with bronzes by Andrea Biccio, architect of ;Sta. Giustina at Padua. The few ornaments, bronze sphinxes, and por- traits which remain, are] of great beauty : the principal reliefs were carried off to Paris, where they are fixed into a door of painted wood at the Louvre ; they have beeu replaced by copies. Over the W. door is *Crucifixion, supposed to be earlier than the time of Cimabue. On the 1. wall, above the Brenzoni tomb, Yittore Pisanello, Annunciation (1430). Adoration of the Magi, in a bad light. In the large chapel of the Sacrament 1., is a very remarkable picture (1528) by *Carotto ; the Madonna with the Infant and St. Anna in the clouds, surrounded by angels. Below are hiS. John Bapt, Peter, Koch, and Sebas- tian. The whole is painted with great power, the colouring rich, the execu- tion solid. On the 1. wall is a Pieta, by Barca. Left of the Choir, Bo- menico Morone, SS. Anthony of Padua, Biagio, and Nicholas. 3rd left, Or- hetto, the Nativity. 1st left, G. B. del Moro, SS. Nicholas, Augustine, and Anthony the Hermit. 3rd rt., Torhklo, Virgin and Child, with Kaffael, Tobias, and St. Catharine. In the large chapel on the rt. is the tomb with re- cumbent efiigy of Barnaba da Modena, who made the pulpit canopy. Outside the choir arch, frescoes of the Coro- nation and Adoration, by Pisanello. To the rt. of the Choir, D. Brusasorcij Crucifixion, with-the;Virgin, St. John, and the Magdalen. The Gothic Pulpit, with a marble canopy, by Barnaha da Modena, and frescoes of saints and prophets, by Stefano da Zevio, is re- markable. The Cloisters to the rt. of the Church are on a lower level. Here is a curious monument to An- tonio Ftlacani (Skin-the-dogs), Miio appropriately took to wife MahiUa rdavicini (Skin-tlie-neighbours). He was a professor of Music, who died in 1327, and is represented teaching four pupils. The neglected Crypt, close by, has curiotis fragments of frescoes. San Giorgio in Braida (A. 6), of very ancient foundation, was rebuilt in BoutG 73. — Verona: Churches, 237 1477. The interior, completed from the designs of SammicheJi, exhibits his talent and exuberant richness of fancy. The altar-piece by *PaoIo Veronese, a large rigorous Martyrdom of St. George, was finished by his pupils. The painter has represented himself on horseback to the rt. The picture is enclosed within a finely sculptured reredos, by BrugnoU, Sammicheli's nephew. To the rt. in the choir is *Farinatl^s Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes, painted in 1603, at the age of 79. With many defects, this picture is a remarkable performance. The painter has introduced himself on horseback to the 1. The Fall of the Manna, begun by Felice Bnisasorci, was completed by Ottini and Orhetto, his pupils, oth altar 1., Moretto, the Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine, Lucia, Cecilia, Agata, and Agnes (1540). 4th 1., *Girolaino dai Libri, the Virgin, SS. Zeno and Lorenzo Giustiniani. 3rd 1., SS. Sebastian and Rocco, by Carotto. 1st 1., *St. Ursula and ten Virgins, by the same painter. "^Bnisasorci, the Virgin and Archangels, supposed to have been executed in rivalry of the preceding picture. Over the door, *Jacopo Tintoretto, the Baptism in the Jordan ; a fine work in bad preservation, copied in mosaic at S. Marco in Venice. On the Basins for holy water are bronze reliefs of St. John Bapt. and St. George. At the sides of the Organ, and opposite, is the Martyrdom of the Patron Saint, by Bomanino, which once formed one painting. The Singing gallery on the rt. is well- carved in wood. San Giovanni in Valle (B. S) is principally remarkable for its ci7pt, which contains two early Christian *Tombs in white marble. On the 1. is a large Sarcophagus with reliefs of uncertain subjects, which appear to represent the Woman of Samaria, Demoniac, Christ between SS. Peter and Andrew, the Issue of Blood, and the Kiss of Judas. Above, the Temp- tation of Eve, and Adam in Paradise. At the sides, two figures bring offer- ings of sheaves and a lamb, probably symbolizing Cain and Abel ; on the other side, Adam and Eve ; on the face, St. Peter with the Cock. The two recumbent monks appear to have been added about 1495, when the tomb was discovered. The other Tomb represents two figures in relief, with Innocents at their feet. S. of the Church are scanty remains of a Cloister, with coupled shafts and round arches. S. Lorenzo (C. 4), flanked by round brick turrets, is modernised within, but retains its ancient columns in the nave, and a gallery above the aisles. Over the high altar, Virgin and Child with SS. John Bapt., Laurence, and a bishop, by Brusasorci. S. M. in Organo (C. 7), with an un- finished faQade by Sammicheli, was built in 1481 upon the site of an an- cient building called the Organum, of the time of the Lower Empire, which it is thought was either an arsenal or a prison. The Church is chiefly celebrated for the *intarsiatura, or inlaid wood- work of the Choir and Sacristy, by one of the gi-eatest masters in this branch of art, Fra Giovanni (1499), an Olivetan monk, to which order this Church belonged. The small land- scapes on the panels of the Stalls are by Cavazzola and Brusasorci. In the rt. transept is a large picture by Guercino of S. Francesca Roniana. The fresco of the archangels Raphael and Gabriel, outside a Chapel in the rt. transept, is by Morando. In the Choir behind the altar is a beautifully carved walnut-tree * candelabrum. Outside the Choir arch, frescoes of the * Paschal Lamb and Manna, and the Ascension, by GioJfino. On the walls of the Choir, Farlaati, St. Peter sinking in the Waters ; St. Gregory feeding the Poor. End of 1. aisle, Domenico Brusasorci, Resurrection of Lazarus ; Pool of Bethesda, with Angels in the lunette above. In the Sacristy are *Frescoes by Francesco Morone — half-figures of Olivetan monks in white dresses, on blue grounds, and lunettes with portraits of 238 Boutc 73. — Verona: Churches. Olivetan popes. On the wall is a portrait of Fra Giovanni da Verona, by Morone. The coloured landscapes below the intarsia work are by BrusasorcL Here also is a finely coloured painting by *Gir. dai Lihri — the Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine and Stephen, unfortunately cut away at the margin ; and a good St. Francis, by Orhetto. On the 1. is an inscription to the memory of Coheth and Opha, two Anglo-Saxon kings (a.d. 714), who are supposed to have become monks, and are said to have assisted in erecting the celebrated Bewcastle Stone (see Ferguson, ' His- tory of Cumberland,' p. 119). ith chapel 1., Savoldo, Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter, Bernardo Tolomeo, Zeno, and Paul ; 3rd chapel, *jF'r. Morone, Virgin and Child, with SS. Augustine and Martin (1503). The Campanile was erected in 1533 by Fra Giovanni. Beneath the Choir is a Crypt, with ancient Eoman columns. In the Nave are some curious capitals. Several of the medallion portraits over the arches are attributed to Torhido. S. M. della Scala (D. 5) has a portal in the cinquecento style, by Fra Giocondo. It was first founded by Cangrande. 4th altar L. is a fine Peru- ginesque Madonna, with SS. Jerome, Catharine, La-svrence, and Peter. To the rt. of it, tomb of Scipione Maffei (1755), the historian of Verona, per- haps the most able and judicious of Italian antiquaries, and also a dram- atic poet of considerable merit. There is a good Gothic Tomb in a Chapel to the rt. of the high altar ; and behind, in the Belfry chamber, are frescoes of the life of St. Anthony, by Stefano da Zcvio or Fimnello. SS. Nazaro e Celso (D. 8) was par- tially rebuilt in 1464, and mutilated, its arches having been reduced to three. On the organ-shutters, over the entrance door, is a Choir of Angels, painted by Brusasorci. * Paolo FarinatVs fresco of Adam and Eve is thought to be one of his best pro- ductions. The handsome chapel of S. Biagio in the 1. transept is Gothic, and covered with frescoes, some of which were painted by Bart. Man- tagna. The fine picture of St. Biagio and St. Sebastian, over the altar, with the Virgin and Child above, is by Bonsignori ; the figures of the female saints, and especially of the patron saint holding an iron comb (the instru- ment of his martyrdom), are beautiful ; the predella beneath, representing the martyrdom of several saints, is a good work by Girolamo dai Lihri. On the W. wall, Mocetto, Virgin and Child, with SS. Biagio and Giuliana. In the rt. transept are panels by Bad. Mon- tagna, representing SS. Nazaro and Celso, attired as cavaliers and looking like portraits, and SS. John Baptist and Benedict. At the 2nd altar 1., is a picture somewhat in Bonifazio's manner of the Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Anthony the Hermit, Benedict, and ]3iagio, and a page. In the Sacristy, Stefano da Zevio, Pieta with SS. Benedict and Albert ; Moa- tagna, Dead Christ with Angels. In a private garden formerly belonging to the monastery is a small chapel, excavated in the side of an adjoining hill, with frescoes of various dates, badly preserved. S. Paolo (E 7) has at the 3rd altar rt. a Holy Family, with St. Paul and two donors, by Gir. dai Lihri; in the transept, to the 1. of a copy from Paolo Veronese, the Virgin and Child, with SS. Anthony the Abbot and Mary Magd., by Bonsignori ; and over the high altar, the * Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter and Paul, by Carotto. SS. Sire e Libera (B. 7), below Castel S, Pietro, reached by a flight of steps, has a projecting porch with frescoes of the Patron Saints in the lunette. It is one of the most ancient Churches in Verona. Santo Stefano (A. 7), founded in the 11th cent., but disfigured by altera- tions, has a good octagon tower. 20 Bishops of Verona are buried here ; and it is probable that this was the original Cathedral. There is a marble Boute 73. — Verona: Churches. 239 throne for the bishop still existing. The crypt may, perhaps, date from the 7th cent., having every mark of early Christian antiquity. On the rt., descending to it, is an ancient Statue of St. Peter. Paintings. — In the rt. transept, *Carotto, the Virgin between SS. Andrew and Peter. To the rt. of the high altar, Giolfino, the Virgin and Child, with SS. Placida, Mauro, and Simplicio. Over a door on the rt., Dom. Brusaso)'ci, a fresco : St. Stephen preceded by the Holy Innocents : close to it are remains of a fresco of the 14th cent. To the 1. of the high altar, Brusasorci, Adoration of the Magi. Chapel on the rt., Farinati, Massacre of the Innocents, *Orhetto, the Forty Martyrs. San Tommaso Cantuariense (D. 7) was assigned to Thomas a Becket by Tebaldo, bishop of Verona, in 1316, The front is of the 15th cent. ; the principal doorway is good. In front of the Sammicheli Altar, 2nd rt, is buried the architect, Michele Sam- micheli (1484-1554). His bust is on a monument to the rt. Paintings : at the high altar, Felice Brusasorci, Virgin and Child, with St. Catharine, SS. Thomas a Becket, Francis, Cyril, Bernard, and John Bapt.— 3rd left, Farinati, Virgin and Child, with SS. Alberto and Jerome. In the sacristy is a good old Copy of Raffael's Virgin and Children in the Vienna Gallery. *SAN ZENONE (B. 2) is the most in- teresting example in Verona of the ecclesiastical architecture of the middle ages, and has undergone little change. (Intelligent sacristan.) This Church (1138-1178) stands on the site of an earlier one built in the 9th cent. The plan is a Latin basilica, without transepts : the style is Lom- bard. The front is of marble : the sides are constructed with alternate layers of marble and brick. In the front is one of the earliest wheel-of- fortune "windows. It was executed by Briolotus, who also made the Font. Its allegorical meaning is here made sufficiently clear by the King at the top of the wheel, the prostrate wretch at the bottom, and the verses both within and without, by which Fortune addresses the beholders. The portal is a rich specimen of Italian work in the 12th cent. The figures are rudely sculptured ; but the arabesques, which enrich the divi- sions of the different compartments, are beautifully designed, and not badly executed. The rude relief over the door is supposed to represent a deputation sent to San Zeno by the Emperor Gallienus. Just within the gable of the porch is a hand with two fingers extended in the act of bene- diction. On the flanks of the portal, rt., the history of Adam and Eve ; 1., the principal events in the life of our Saviour, explained in leonine verses in short epigraphs. The attitude of the perplexed St. Joseph, on the central pilaster left of the door, is marvel- lously dramatic. With these scenes are blended, as usual, subjects taken from ordinary life, and illustrating the manners of the times ; and below the first series is a hunting episode, popularly called the Chase of Theo- doric, in which the Emperor is riding headlong to the devil. The feet of the hunter, who is in Roman costume, are placed in stirrups ; and this, ac- cording to Maffei, is the most ancient piece of sculpture in which they are exhibited. The pillars of the portal, as usual, rest on the backs of animals — lions of red marble, symbolical of the vigilance and strength of the Church. Round the arch of the portal are representations of the months, be- ginning with March. The bronze doors, of the 9th cent., are very curious, consisting of 48 plates, fixed on a pinewood frame ; the reliefs on them represent, in the rudest style of art, Scriptural subjects, and are perhaps amongst the earliest specimens, as they are amongst the rudest, of Christian sculpture. The lofty Nave is entered by 10 descending steps, and is striking from its proportions and elevation. It is divided from the aisles, which are low, by alternate pillars and piers sup- porting semicircular arches in pairs. From the piers ascend ribs, in the 24:0 Boute 73. — Verona: Churches. form of rude Doric pilasters, to sup- port the roof; the two on the W. support a direct arch across tlie nave, and the arrangement is not calculated to support any vaulting. At the 1st altar rt. is a Virgin and Child, with SS. Zeno, James, Anna, Christopher, and Sebastian, by Torhklo. Notice the curiously sculptured red marble capitals of the 3rd columns rt. and 1. The Eoof of larch is curious and elabo- rate, painted in faint colours. The clerestory windows are small round- headed lancets. On the rt. of the entrance door is an octagonal font of 1069, and behind it a 14th-cent. fresco of St. Benedict. Opposite, on the N. side, is the Copixi dl San Zenone, a vase formed out of a single block of red porphyrj-, the outer diameter of which is 13 ft. 11 in., the inner 8 ft. 8 in.; and the pedestal is formed out of another mass of the same material. It is of high antiquity, and, according to the legend, was brought by the fiend from Syria, at the behest of the bishop. It originally stood outside, and MaflFei supposes it to have been intended for ■washing the feet of the pilgrims before entering the sacred edifice. Near it is a fine Gothic Crucifix, by Alticliieri. Many of the altars are adorned with pillars, taken, probably, from some more ancient edifice. In the 2nd rt., the columns are composed of four smaller shafts fastened in a kind of knot, and resting on a winged bull and lion. On the top of the central arch which supports the front of the Chancel is a relief of two cocks carry- ing a fox dangling from a pole, con- sidered as symbolical of vigilance ovei'coming craft. On the Chancel screen are rude statues of Christ and the Apostles, of the llth cent. The raised Chancel is reached by a double fiight of handsome steps, as in some of the ancient basilicas : the Choir or tribune which terminates it is in the Pointed style, and covered with frescoes ; but all this was rebuilt in the 15th cent. On the rt. of the Choir is a marble Statue of San Zeno, with staff and fishing-rod, sitting in a chair and giving his benediction (9th cent.). The fish is of silvered w^ood. San Zeno is the patron of Verona; he became its bishop in a.d. 3G2, in the reign of Julian the Apostate. He was an African by birth ; and the painted figure represents him as brown as a mulatto, though not with a negro physiognomy. On the opposite side is St. Proculus, executed in 1392. A Roman inscription of Augusta Atilia Valeria, on the lowest step leading to the altar, is one of the few early Christian ones w^hich formerly abounded in this city. Several fres- coes have been recovered from the whitewash, the most interesting of which is that over an arch to the rt. of the raised Choir, representing a Procession of devotees to the Throne of the Virgin and Child (P. P. Ooj> pdlo, 1397). To the rt. of the high altar is a fine picture by *Mantegna in a handsome frame — " a masterpiece as to the whole feeling and capacity of the school." — Cic. It consisted originally of six compartments, which were all carried to Paris ; only three have been restored, but these the most important. In the centre is the Virgin with the Infant Christ and eight Angels ; rich architectural designs and festoons of fruit surround the composition ; below, on the 1., are SS. Peter, Paul, John Evan., and Augustine ; on the rt., SS. Benedict, Laurence, Gregory, and John Bapt. Beneath is a copy of the original Pre- della. The spacious *crypt, reached by a double flight of steps, has a semi- circular groined roof supported by 48 pillars, with capitals of various forms, the main piers on each side of the Choir being continued dowuAvards through it. In its recesses are dis- persed numerous fragments of ancient frescoes and reliefs. On the 1., at the last altar, are the tombs of Eupreprius and Cricinus, with Statues of the Saints and St. John Evan. ; opposite, those of SS. Proculus and Agabius, all bishops of Verona, with their Statues and that of St. John Bapt. On the 1. at the entrance, is the plain stone sarcophagus containing the bones of Boute 73. — Verona: Private Mamk 241 St. Zeno, discovered in 1839. On the rt. under a window, is a remarkable sarcophagus, perhaps of the 9th cent., serving as an altar with sculptures on three sides. At the extreme E. end is a new bronze Tomb of S. Zeno (1889), surrounded by a wrought-iron railing, made by order of Ubertino when Prior in 1362. The ^Cloisters, restored in 1123, consist of brick arches, pointed on the E. and W. sides, circular on the two others. The coupled columns of red marble are united by a little appendage of the same substance at the neck and base. On the N. side is a projection, sustained by double columns of different diameters, those at the corners being more massive. It served as a lavatory, and formerly contained a large basin for the monks to wash before entering the refectory. The cloister contains many tombs, some of which have been brought from suppressed churches. At the S.E. angle is the canopied tomb of Giuseppe delta ScaJa, of whom Dante speaks, and at its foot that of Ubertino detta Scata, superior of the Benedic- tines, and prior of this monastery. Close by is a Chapel, resembling that which opens out of the Cathedral Cloister, with groined semicircular arches, supported on four pillars, all unlike, dividing it into nine equal squares. The detached *Campanile to the S, is one of the most beautiful edifices of its kind, and one of the finest ob- jects in the varied landscape about Verona. Begun by Abbot Albericus in 1045, it was completed in 1178, and is built of alternate zones of brick and marble. It has a double gallery of Lombard arches, crowned by a low conical spire and four turrets. The adjoining disused Cemetery, from which the campanile is best seen, contains an ancient and singular monument. Descending by a tiight of steps, at the bottom stands a mediaeval sarcophagus. Over the K. Italy. entrance is an inscription, appro- priating it to Pepin, King of Italy, the son of Charlemagne, who died at Milan, a.d. 810. The urn is remark- able, and evidently belonged to some person of distinction ; but the inscrip- tion is modern, and was put up by a priest in the course of the last cent. The water found in the tomb, caused by the percolation of the rain, is thought by the lower orders to possess medicinal virtues. At the N.W. corner of San Zenone stands a brick Tower, asserted to have formed part of the palace of Pepin. The forked battlements are said to have been the originals from which later builders derived the idea. PRIVATE MANSIONS. " Sammicheli's most admired works are at Verona; the general style of composition, very different from that of the palaces of Florence and Rome, is marked by the use of a basement of rustic work, wherefrom an order rises, often with arched windows, in which he greatly delighted, and these were connected with the order after the manner of an arcade, the whole being crowned with the proper enta- blature. The fa9ade of the Pal. Pompei (containing the Museum) is a good example." — Givilt. Palazzo *Bevilacqua, in the Corso, is a beautiful fragment of an unfinished design. It is in a neglected state. It may be distinguished by a row of seven busts over the door and windows of the ground - floor, and by the spirally fluted columns between the windows over the continuous balcony. Palazzo *Canossa, by Sammicheli, also in the Corso, distinguished by a row of statues on the roof balustrading. This palace, belonging to one of the most influential families of Verona, was begun in 1527, by Lodovico da Cano-^sa, Bishop of Bayeux, in France. His armorial bearings are on the front. It was not completed till 1560. It contains paintings by Brusasorci, R 242 Boute 73. — Verona: TJicatres. Fan'nati, Orhetto, GioJfino, and Pha- nello. There are frescoes by lie- polo in the great hall, and a ceiling charmingly painted in grotesque, on the ground-floor. Good view over the Adige. On the palace next to this are some curious picturesque chimneys. Palazzo Portalupi, also in the Corso, •nith an Ionic front, of the ISth cent. There is a row of statues in the attic, and a handsome staircase in the vestibule. Palazzo *MaflPei(uow Tnzza), in the Piazza delle P^rbe, built in 1668, was once the residence of the patrician family of which the historian of Ve- rona was a member. Its style is very elFective, and the construction of the staircase remarkably bold. There is here a good statue of Serapis. Palazzo Gitisti, on the declivity of the hill overlooking the Adige, has remains of a front painted by P. Farhudi. The beautiful '^Gardens, open to strangers (small fee), are planted with cypresses, some of great age. From a high terrace there is a very fine View over the city, and over a far-stretching landscape in which Mantua may be seen against the horizon, and a little to the rt. the tower of Solferino. Palazzo degli Emilii. near S. Anas- tasia. Only remarkable as the lodging- place of Napoleon on 1st June, 1796, after his victories at Moutenotte and Mondovi. Palazzo Miniscalchi.— The exterior is painted in fresco by TulUo cV India and Alepmndi. Amongst other sub- jects is the Feast of Damocles. Palazzo Catarinetti, at the comer of Via S. Eufemia and S. Egidio, has a curious l6th-cent. balcony. Palazzo Guastaverza, or Sparavieri, in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, a graceful production of SammicheJi with good rustic work, is now a Cafe. The Such'ta. Lltieraria has a good Reading Room and Library on the first floor. Palazzo Gazzola. — An extensive col- lection of ^lonte Bolca fossil fishes, and other geological specimens. THEATRES. Teatro Filarmonico (20, D. 4), re- built in 1749, after a fire, is open during the autumn for operas, and during the Carnival for operas and ballets. Teatro Nuovo, built in 1846, W. of the Post Ofiice (C. 6). Tomb of Juliet. — Verona and Shak- speare are, of course, associated in the mind. The jSIontecclii -Montagues) belonged to the Ghibellines ; and as they joined with the CappeUetti in ex- pelling Azzo da Ferrara (some short time previous to 1207;, it is probable that both were of the same party. The laconic mention of their families, which Dante places in the mouth of Sordello, proves their celebrity : — Vieni a veder IMontecchi e CappeUetti Monaldi e Filippeschi, uom senza cura, Color gia tristi, e costor con sospetti. Purgatorio, v. 107. Come, see the Capulets and Montagues, — Monaldi — Filippeschi, reckless one ! These now ha fear — already wretched those. Weight's Dante. The tragic history of Romeo and Juliet cannot be ti'aced in any written document earlier than the time of Luigi da Porto, a novelist of the 16th cent. The Casa de' CappeUetti, now Osteria del Cappello, an inn for vet- turini, in the Via Cappello, is an old brick house, with a balcony and picturesque rounded windows ; inside the courtyard is engraved on the keystone something like a cardi- nal's hat, the amiorial bearing of the Capulets. The Tomb certainly was shown in the last cent., before Shakspeare was generally known to the Italians, but it has long since been I destroyed. The present one — in the I garden of the Orfanotrofio, entered (small fee) from the Vicolo Frances- Route 73. — Verona: Excursions. 243 chine (F. 5), is of red Verona marble, and before it was promoted to its present honour, was used as a washing- trough. At the E. end of the Ponte Umberto (C. 6) is a House painted on the out- side with allegorical frescoes, and good groups of Children. The Public Cemetery (F. G. 67), designed hy Barhieri, is in the form of a large square surrounded by arcades, with vaults and several good modem monuments bj Ferrari, Fracaroli, and Spazzi. The poorer classes are in- terred in the centre. EXCURSIONS. The circuit of the Fortifilcatioiis from Porta Vescovo to (1 hr.) Porta S. Giorgio is strongly recommended. There is a good carriage - road, though in places one should take by preference the footpath along the turf on the edge of the ditch. The *view is magnificent, especially towards sunset, embracing the Ty- rolese Alps, the Euganean flills, the windings of the Adige, and the j boundless expanse of the Lombard plain. San Michele, where the architect Sammichdi was born (14S-t), is about 2 m, E. of the Porta Vescovo. Here is the fine Church of the Madonna di Co.rrqjo.gna. built by the architect. The Steam Tramway to (26 m,) Cologna (Rte. 7o) passes through the vUlage. Towards the X., the Val Policella is filled with villas, the summer resi- dences of the rich Veronese. The former is justly celebrated for its excellent wine. It is best reached from the Porta S. Giorgio (A. 5) by a local Ely., which runs X.W. in 2 hrs. to Capriko (p. 217), passing (10 m.) Gargagnago, where Dante is said to have composed his Purgatorio, and where he possessed a villa, which afterwards passed into the Serego AUghieri family. It is in a wild and picturesque situation. Near Sfinf Ambrogio, about 2 m. further, are quarries from whence much of the red marble of Verona is obtained. The workmen are remark- able for their cleverness in sculp- ture, which art, as at O)mo, they follow from father to son. San Giorgio, Ig m. N.E., stands upon a lofty hill, apparently easy of ascent, but in fact very difficult, whence it has the name of Inganna IxAtrone (Cheat the lazy). Here is a good Lombard Church, where columns and inscriptions of Liutprand were found. At (15 m.) Bornegliara (p. 222) the main line is crossed, and our Ely. ascends to 27 m.) Oiyrino. Due N. of Verona a road passes up the Yal Fanfena, throtigh pleasant villages, towards the Monti Lessini. Near (4 m.) Quinto is the sanctuary of S, M. delle Stelle, with a very curious * Roman Crypt, which Italian antiqtiaries have supposed to be a cave dedicated to Mercurim Tropfionius (a creation of their own). In lie? it was consecrated by Pope Crban III. A heathen altar or Roman sarcopha- gtis, now in the crypt, may have been brought from its vicinity. The floors exhibits the remains of a beau- tiful mosaic ; a stream of very pure and limpid water, which still flows into the crypt in the original Roman conduit, and the remains of other Roman constructions adjoining, lead to the supposition that the cave was originally a Bath. 7 m. Grezzana (CXt ft,^, chief vil- lage of the Valley. Near it is the YiUa Cuzzano, a good and unaltered specimen of an old Italian mansion, containing frescoes by Fado Yerone^ . On the limestone X. of Grezzana grows the very rare Campanula peirsEa (Ball). 8 m. farther, in a deep ravine, is the Ponte di Veja, a natural arch, beneath which rushes a cascade. The span of the arch is about 15u fr. ; the breadth varies from 10 to 15 ft. Just , beyond it is the village of Sanf J/ina, ' in a secluded spot, R 2 244 Route 74. — Brescia to Biva. The highest summit of the Monti Lessini group is Monte Tomha (6485 ft.), rising immediately S. of Ala. The district around it is locally called Podestaria. ROUTE 74. BRESCIA TO EIVA, BY THE LAGO D IDRO — STEAM TRAMWAY AND CARRIAGE- ROAD. 69 miles in 15 hrs. Brescia 1 hr. min TormiTii [ Steam Tramway 2 10 Vestone ) 3 30 Vestone 1 Anfo > Diligence 1 30 Darzo-Storo ) 3 Store Ledro Diligence . . . 4 30 Biva 8 Tramway Terminus at Brescia near Porta Venezia. The road ascends E. to (6 m.) Eezzato, and then turns N.E. 12 m. from Brescia, on a hill to the left, is Paitone, in the Pilgrimage Church of M'hich is a celebrated and *beau- tiful picture by Moreito, representing an appearance of the Madonna to a peasant boy. The Chiese is crossed at 15 m. Gavardo, near which beauti- ful views are enjoyed over the Lago di Garda. At 18 m. Tormini a branch line strikes E. to (3m.) Said on the Lake (Rte. 72). Our road continues N.E. for 3 m., and then curves abruptly W., ascending the Yal Sabbia through Vuharno and Sahhio, and thence N. to 27 m. Barghe, passing a fine Castle in ruins, and the picturesque village of 29 m. Nozza. The road now turns N.E. to 30 m. Vestone (1400), the chief place in the valley (975 ft.), where the Tramway ends. The carriage- road continues N.E. through beautiful scenery to 34 m. lavenone, a picturesque vil- lage, at the opening of a gorge where the Chiese tumbles over rocks of argillaceous schist. Here the valley opens, and the road curves W. to the 36 m. lago d' Idro (965 ft), a charming sub-Alpine lake, 7 m. long, and less than a mile in width. On the opposite bank is the village of Idro. 39 m. Anfo, a cluster of picturesque old houses. A mile farther, on a pro- jecting mass of rock, is the Castle of JRocca d'Anfo, assaulted with much loss by Garibaldi in 1S66, and evacu- ated by the Austrians the same night. 3 m. beyond the Rocca, a good road ascends 1. in curves, commanding splendid views, to (4 m.) Bagolino, a charming and easy 2 days' walk from Lovere (S. Germany, Ktes. 393, 394). Our road skirts the lake and quits it before reaching 45 m. Ponte di Caffaro, in the broad valley of the Chiese (Austrian frontier and Custom House). S.E. rises Bon- done, romantically perched on the summit of a steep rock, nearly 1000 ft. above the water. The Cima S2)essa (5950 ft.), easily ascended from Lod- drone in 4 hrs., affords a fine view, and a path leading S.E. from it, and crosses the ridge of Mte. Tombea to Magasa in Val VeKtino. (See below.) 46 m. Lodrone (1285 ft.). After passing (45 m.) Darzo the road branches off rt. and crosses the Chiese to 51 m. Storo, at the mouth of the narrow Val Ampola. [The road N. up the valley of the Chiese leads into the romantic scenery of the Giudicaria and the Dolomites of the Brenta Alta in Val Rendena (see Rte. 382, Handbook for S. Ger- many).2 Boute 75. — Verona to Venice. 245 Our road ascends a limestone cleft to 52 m. Fort Ampola, a ruined strong- hold that delayed the Garibaldians several days in 1866. [Here the Veil Lorina enters from the S., a wild and deep glen, the path leading along the bottom, and finally ascending to a ridge (3420 ft.) be- tween the Cinia della Guardia and Mte. Tomhea (6800 ft.), the N. face of which especially is remarkable for many rare plants. The descent crosses the S. face of Mte. Tombea to Magasa in Val Vestino, the upper part of a valley which lower down is called Val Toscolano : scenery rather tame. It issues on the Lake of Garda at the village of Toscolano (Rte. 72).] An ascent between steep walls of lime- stone leads to the 56 m. Summit of the pass, marked by a small pool, succeeded by marshy ground. Further on, the wide basin of the Val di Ledro opens to view, and the road descends gently to 60 m. Bezzecca. Here was fought the last action between the Garibal- dians and Austrians in 1866. 61 m. Pieve di Ledro (2185 ft.), close to the charming Lago di Ledro. The lake is of irregular shape, and about 2 m. long. It is surrounded by sloping meadows and wooded hills, with higher moun- tains in the background. After pass- ing it, the road descends rapidly by the stream of the Fondle, which finally flings itself by a cascade into the Lake of Garda. At a point 700 ft. above the waters of the lake the wonderful *Coniice Eoad turns 1., and is carried for 2 m. along the face of a tremendous precipice, commanding splendid views, to EOUTP] 75. VERONA TO VENICE, BY VICENZA AND PADUA. Miles Stations. Routes. Verona (P. Vescovo) 53, 84 4 S. Martino 8 Caldiero 9 Bagni di Caldiero 13 San Bonifacio 17 Lonigo 20 Montebello 26 Tavernelle 30 Vicenza. . 76, 77, 88 35 Lerino 40 Poiana 49 Padua . . . 79,95 52 Ponte di Brenta 58 Dolo 61 Marano 66 Mestre . . 82, 83, 95 72 Venice 69 m. Riva (Rte. 72). Verona is described in Rte. 73. From the Forta Vescovo Stat.'the line skirts on the 1. the last spurs of the Alps, picturesque hills, with many villages and Scaligerian castles on them. Looking back on the city, the view of Verona, with its mediseval walls, and its heights crowned by the modern fortifications, is beautiful. As far as San Bonifacio the Steam Tramway for Cologna runs nearly parallel with our line on the rt. Ij m. 1. is passed the village of San Micliele, where the architect Michele Sammiclieli was born in 1484. Here was a very ancient monastery, which afterwards became a convent of Benedictine nuns, where Aligheria, Gemma, and Lucia, grand- daughters of Dante, the children of his son Pietro, took the veil, the last having been abbess in 1402. The family of Dante became extinct in the male line in 1558, the last descendant who bore that great name then holding a muni- cipal office in Verona. Immediately beyond S. Michele is the * Church of the Madonna di Cam- pagna,] designed by Sammicheli, a circular building with a Tuscan colon- nade, crowned by a cupola of great beauty and originality. The contri- 24(3 Itoufc 75. — Sail Martino — Arcole. vances of the vaulting, the winding staircase, and other portions of the fabric, sliow great ingenuity. Witliin are some good paintings by Brusasorci and Fdrhuii'i ; by the latter a Nativity. Before the altar is interred Davila the historian : he was assassinated close to the Church. On the other side of the Adige is the Lazaretto, built in 1591, forwliich Sammichell gave the designs. It is a parallelogram of about 700 ft. by 300, containing 150 cells. In the centre is a gi-aceful circular chapel of marble. The building is now used as a powder-magazine. About 3 m. from San Michele, on the 1., is the village of Montorio, re- markable for its well-preserved Scali- gerian defences. 4 m. San Martino, where is the handsome Villa Musella. 8 m. Caldiero, anciently Caldiarium, from its sulphureous thermal springs, still much frequented. In the season trains stop at the Stat, of the Baths, a mile further. They were built or re- paired by Petronius Probus A.u.c. 753 (the first year of the Christian era), and dedicated to Juno. The buildings stood and continued in use until 1240, when they were destroyed by Ezzelino da Romano ; but the Venetian republic, more than two centuries afterwards (1483-1500), di- rected the building of a new bath- house. At Caldiero, and on the heights of Cotagnole near it, the Austrians took up a position, towards the beginning of November, 1796, where, on the 11th of the month, they were assailed by Napo- leon, whom after an ol)stinatc struggle they defcatctl. Nai^olcon then retreated to Verona, which he quitted suddenly two days aftenvards with all his dis- posable forces ; and by a rapid march along the rt. bank of the Adige, crossed that river at Ronco, a movement which was followed by his brilliant victory of Arcole. From Caldiero, a branch of the Tramway crosses our line, and runs N. in an hour to Treguano, passing (4 m.) Illasi, where is a handsome Villa of Count Pompei, surrounded by beautiful park-like grounds. The ancient *Castle of the family com- mands an extensive view. From Tre- gnano (1090 ft.), a road follows the stream N. to (5 m.) Badia Ccdavena, whence the traveller may reach the basaltic rocks of Vestena, or Monte Bolca (Rte. 80). After leaving Caldiero, the pictur- esque town of Soave, on the declivity of a hill, is passed on the left. The modern town is in the plain, but the mediseval walls, which are well pre- served, with their square towers, are seen conver^ng to the summit of the eminence, terminated by the ancient Castle — the general disposition of all the fortresses in the hilly region of this part of Italy. Further on is Villanuova, with campanilt- formed out of an ancient feudal tower, formerly part of the castle of the noble family of San Bonifacio, by whom the place was founded. The altar has a good relief in the style of the 13th cent., and the capitals of several of the columns seem to have belonged to some early Christian structure. The village on an eminence to the 1. is 3Ionforte. 13 m. San Bonifacio, on the 1, bank of the Alpone (Rte. 80). Steam Tramway to Lonigo. 3 m. S. is Arcole. It was near this point that Napoleon, after his check at Caldiero, determined to assail the Austrians in flank ; and he therefore stationed his army in the low grounds which extend from this village to the Adige. He thought, with reason, that, on the narrow causeways which traversed these marshes, the superiority of numbers on the part of the enemy would be unavailing, and everything Avould depend on the resolution of the heads of columns. The position which he had chosen was singularlj- well adapted for the purpose he had in view. Three roads branch off from Ronco ; one, following the 1. bank of the Adige, ascends that river to Verona ; one, in the centre, leads straight to Arcole, by a stone bridge over the little stream of the Alpone ; "the third, on the rt., follows Route 7 5 . — Lonigo — Tavernelle. 247 the descending course of the Adige to Albaredo. Three cohimns were moved forward on these roads : that on the 1. was destined to approach Verona ; that in the centre to attack the flank of the Austrian position by the village of Arcole ; that on the rt. to cut oif their retreat. At daybreak on the 15th, Massena advanced on the tirst road as far as a small eminence, which brought him in sight of the steeples of Verona, and removed all anxiety in that quarter. Augereau, with the division in the centre, pushed, without being perceived, as far as the bridge of Arcole ; but his advanced guard was there met by three battalions of Croats, by whom the French were driven back. The Austrians de- spatched by Alvinzi passed through Arcole, crossed the bridge, and attacked the corps of Augerpau ; but they also were repidsed, and followed to the bridge by the victorious French. There com- menced a desperate struggle ; the re- publican column advanced with the utmost intrepidity, but they were re- ceived with so tremendous a fire that they staggered and fell back. Napoleon, deeming the possession of Arcole indis- pensable, not only to his future opera- tions, but to the safety of his own army, put himself with his generals at the head of the column, seized a standard, advanced without shrinking through a tempest of shot, and planted it on the middle of the bridge ; but the fire there became so violent that his grenadiers hesitated, and, seizing the general in their arms, bore him back amidst a cloud of smoke, the dead, and the dying. The Austrians instantly rushed over the bridge, and pushed the crowd of fugi- tives into the marsh, where Napoleon lay up to the middle in water, while the enemy's soldiers for a minute surrounded him on all sides. The French grenadiers soon perceived that their commander was left behind: the cry ran through their ranks, "Forward, to save the general ! " and, returning to the charge, they drove back the Austrians, and extricated Napoleon from his perilous situation. During this terrible strife, Lannes received three wounds. His aide-de-camp, Meuron, was killed by his side when covering his general with his body, and almost all his personal staff were badly wounded. The battle continued with various fluctuations through the 16th and 17th, when both parties advanced, with di- minished numbers but undecaying fury. They met in the middle of the dikes, and fought with the utmost animosity. Towards noon, however, Napoleon, per- ceiving that the enemy were exhausted by fatigue, while his own soldiers were comparatively fresh, deemed the mo- ment for decisive action arrived, and, ordering a general charge of all hia forces, cleared them of the enemy, and formed his troops in order of battle at their extremity, having the rt. towards Legnago. By the orders of Napoleon the garrison of Legnago issued forth to take the enemy in the rear ; while a body of trumpeters was sent, under cover of the willows, to their extreme 1. flank, with orders to sound a charge as soon as the action was fully engaged along the whole line. These measures were completely successful. The Austrian commander, hearing a can- nonade in his rear, and the trumpets of a whole division of cavalry in his flank, ordered a retreat, and, after a desperate struggle of three days, yielded the victory to his enemies. An obelisk was erected near the bridge of Arcole in commemoration of the victory, but it has been mutilated and disfigured. 17 m. Lonigo Stat., 3 m. from the town, which lies on the rt. The hand- some Romanesque Church with twin spires is modern. Steam Tramway to (6 m. S.) Cologna. 20 m. Montebello lies at the base of a hill to the 1., on the summit of which are ruins of a mediaeval stronghold, and a large modern Villa of Count Arrighi; on the right is the wooded volcanic group of Monti Berici. There are several handsome villas here. The two Castles of Monteccliio now come into view ; and on the op- posite side of the valley which leads towards Vicenza, the Castle of Bren- dola, on the slopes of Monti Berici. The castles of Montecchio were strongholds of the family of that name, rendered celebrated by Shakspeare as the rivals of the Capulets. Fine view across the plain to a deep bay amongst the hills terminated by the Venetian Alps. 26 m. Tavernelle, in a rich plain between Montecchio and Monti Berici. 2-18 BoiUe 75. — Vicenza: Tmjjortant Sights. 30 m. Vicenza Junct. (28,000). the ancient Vicentia. REFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 D 3 Duomo. 2 c 4 S. Corona. 3 C 2 S. Lorenzo. 4 C 3 S. Stefano. 5 D 2 S. Filippo. 6 C 5 S. I'ietro. 7 B 4 S. Maria in Araceli. 8 B 2 S. Marco. 9 E 1 S. Felice e Fortunate. 10 c 3 Ral. Porto Colleoni. 11 D 3 I'al. Porto Harbarano. 12 C 4 I'al. Chieregati (.Museo Civico) 13 D 3 J'al. Valmaraua. 14 D 3 Pal. Prefettizio. 15 D 4 Basilica (Pal. del Consiglio). 16 D 3 I'al. Tieue. 17 1) 2 Pal. Giulio Porta, 18 c 4 Casa di Palladio. 19 E 3 Teatro Eretenio. 20 C 4 Teatro Olimpico. 21 D 3 Post Office. HOTEL. a D 2 Albergo di Roma. VICENZA is beautifully situated at the foot ;of Monti Berici. The out- skirts have been planted with trees, affording shady promenades. The rapid Baccliiglione, which runs through the city, and is joined within its walls by the Betrone, though small, some- times does much mischief. Eight bridges cross these rivers, one of which, that of *San Michele (D. E. 3, 4), a bold single arch, is attributed to I'aUadio. Of Roman remains, little has been discovered beyond portions of a theatre. Nor are there many structures of the middle ages, owing to the influence of Palladio (1518- l.')80) in this his native town, and of those architects who more or less fol- lowed his school. Palladio's buildings at Vicenza are in general very beautiful ; but most of tliem are at present in a veiy forlorn condition. The fronts, and even the columns are of brick, the entablatures of wood, and the stucco, with which both have been covered, is peeling off. Palladio was succeeded by Scamozzi, also a Vicentine (15.52-1616). His style, formed by the example of Palla- dio, may be studied best at Venice, though some good specimens of his talents are to be found in his native city. IMPORTAXT SIGHTS. Cathedral ; Piazza dei Signori, with the * Palazzo della Kagione, &c. ; Casa Pigafetta ; *Palazzo Chiericati, with the *Pinacoteca ; *Tcatro Olimpico ; Casa di Palladio ; Sta. Corona ; S. Stefano ; Palazzo Tiene ; San Lo- renzo ; Palazzo Porto Barbarano ; Madonna del *Monte ; Kotonda di Palladio. In the Piazza dei Signori are the two columns which the Venetians used to erect in all the cities of their dominion, in imitation of those in the Piazza di San Marco. The lofty and slender Torre delV Orologio is 270 ft. in height, though only 23 ft. wide ; the range of shields on it are those of the ancient magistrates. The *Basilica, which encloses the Gothic Palazzo della liagione^ is sur- rounded with open galleries in two tiers, Doric below, Ionic above, by Palladio, commenced in 15G0. The great hall on the first floor has a beautiful wooden roof. The Statue of Palladio, by the Roman sculptor Gajassi, in the Piazza, Avas given (1859) by a patriotic Venetian noble- man, Conte Bressan. The Tribunale, forming the con- tinuation of the Basilica into the neighbouring Piazza della Biadia, is partly from the designs of Scamozzi ; it now contains the municipal offices and the law-courts. The Torre delV Orologio is connected with it. The Palazzo Prefettizio, opposite the Basilica, was designed also by Palladio, but, being at Rome when it was in the course of construction, it is said that those who had the direction of the work departed from his designs. It is Corinthian, rich and fanciful. The front towards the E. is a Roman triumphal arch ; Palladio carved his London,^ Joktj. Idiwray, Albemarle/ Strejtt,. Boiite 75. — Vicenza: Churches. 249 name over the sculptured keystone. In the SaJa Bernardo, so called from Battista Bernardo, governor of the city at the time of the erection of the palace, are good paintings by Fassolo ; the subjects are taken from Roman history. The adjacent building is the Monte di Pieta. CHURCHES. The Duomo (1235-1467) is Gothic, with a curious mixture of styles in the W. front. The nave is nearly 60 ft. wide ; the roof appears low. The broad flight of steps leading up to the choir has a good effect. In the 4th chapel 1. are some ancient frescoes representing the Martyrdom of Sta. Montana, much restored ; on the oppo- site wall, six Passion scenes. Over the altar, Virgin and Child with the Magdalene and S. Lucia, by 3Ion- tagna; in the lunette above, the Saviour with SS. Sebastian and John Bapt. In the 5th chapel rt. is a curious painting of the Virgin and saints, by Lorenzo (1366), in 31 com- partments, on gold ground : Death and Assumption of the Virgin, Crucifixion above, and half-length Saints at the sides and on the predella. On the wall, frescoes attributed to Mantegna. The choir was erected in 1574. The Council of Trent held some of its meetings here. Outside, on the E. wall of the S. aisle, is a good Gothic Tomb, with Statue of Bp. Giov. Cacciafronte. S. of the Cathedral is a small Church, a well-proportioned specimen of late Renaissance (1596). In the Piazza is a Statue of Victor Emanuel, by Benvenuti. W. of the Cathedral is the Bishop's Palace (Ves- covado), in the Court of which are five good arches, adorned with arabesques (N. side). Further N=, in the Corso, is the Palazzo Loschi, containing a much restored painting of Christ bearing the Cross, by Glorgione. San Lorenzo, an elegant Gothic edifice, having for a long time been desecrated, has been restored. The front is divided by 7 high pointed arches, in the centre of which is a recessed marble doorway, having on either side canopied tombs of the 14th cent. The interior contains several monuments, many of which have been removed here from desecrated churches. Immediately on the 1. of the entrance is the tomb of Vincenzo Scamozzi (1516), with his bust; and beyond it the red sepulchral tablet of Bartolommeo Montagna (1572). Next, slab-tomb of Giov. Ant. Fasoli, pupil of Paolo Veronese ; then a monument to Leonardo Porto in the form of an Ionic portico, having his urn in the centre, and those of two members of his family beneath. The tomb of Isabella Allidossi consists of a cinque- cento urn. On the wall beyond is the slab-tomb that formerly covered the grave of the celebrated Giovanni Giorgio Trissino, poet and orator (1615). Then follows an altar hand- somely sculptured with birds among foliage. The Chapel to the left of the Choir has a large fresco of the Mar- tyrdom of St. Paul, attributed to Man- tegna. In the rt. transept is a beautiful *Altar — Pieta between SS. Francis and Bernardino ; above, fresco of the Crucifixion by Montagna ; on the cornice, relief of the Virgin and Child with SS. Sebastian and Anthony the Hermit ; to the rt., bust of John of Schio, or Schelders, the contemporary and friend of St. Dominic, the " An- geli Pacis Nuncius," "Tyrannorum Gladius," and " Hereticorum Malleus," as his inscription tells us, "quivigebat saeculo ferreo xiii." Over the 3rd altar rt., dedicated to SS. Lorenzo and Vincenzo, is a much injured painting of these saints by Montagna, with a view of the church in the background. Beyond the 1st altar rt., Tomb of Ferretti, the historian of Vicenza. Santa Corona, also Gothic, restored in 1504, has a rose-window in the brick gable end. Here are several sepulchral inscriptions and monuments removed from other churches. 2nd chapel 1., *Bart. Montagna, S. M. Magdalen enthroned with saints, pro- bably portraits. 8rd 1., St. Anthony giving alms, by Bassano. 4th 1., the 250 Itoiite 75. — Vicenza: Private Mansions. Madonna' crowuecl, i)ainted by Verla (1-ith cent.), and a glory of angels by Fogolino. 5th 1., *BaptiRra in the Jordan, by Giovduni Bcllhd, with an elaborate landscape background. Around the picture are beautiful ara- besque reliefs. On the last pillar to the 1. in the nave is an inscription recording the sepulture of Palladio, wliose remains, however, have been removed to the Campo Santo. In the Chapel to the 1. of the Choir is the altar-tomb of the Beato Burtolommeo de' Breganzi, founder of the Church. He -was a most fanatical follower of St. Dominic. He had been deputed to the court of St. Louis, who in 1262 endowed the Church with a Thorn of our Saviour's Crown, from which the building derives its name. This friar was beatified towards the close of the last cent., at the instance and heavy cost of the Bourbon dynasty of Parma. The high altar is a pyramid of Floren- tine mosaic. In the chapel on the rt. of it are two fine Gothic tombs of the Tliiene family, with recumbent statues in armour; the tombs and ornaments are richly gilt, each having a fresco of the V^irgin and Child with Saints. Beneath the Choir is a Crypt, in dis- order, and inaccessible. On the side wall of the 3rd chapel rt. is the Adoration of the Magi, by Paolo Veronese^ much damaged. Over the chief entrance is an old picture, the Mocking of Christ, well painted, but in a vulgar style. Below it, on the 1. of the entrance, a fresco of the Virgin with donors, by Speranza. S. Croce (A. B. 1).— 1st altar rt., Entombment, School of Bassano. S. Rocco (C. 1). Behind the high altar is a good painting of the Virgin and Child with SS. Peter, Paul, Vincent Ferrer, and Sebastian, by Buonconsiglio. S. Stefano. In the 1. transept is the ♦Virgin and Child with SS. George and Lucia, and an Angel, by Falma Vecchio. — " I hardly know a church out of Venice which can show so splendid a work." — Cic. On the side wall of the 1st chapel 1., in a very bad light, St. Paul, by Tintoretto. An inscription below states that it was rescued from " abject squalor " by the Parish Priest in 1804. SS. Felice e Fortunato (E. 1 ) has a remarkable tower, dark and deeply machicolated, which forms rather a prominent object in the view from the Monte. It was erected by the Scaligers as the March Toirer between Lombardy and the Venetian states, and it is now used as the campanile of the church. San Pietro (C. 5), to which is an- nexed the Osphio c?e' Poveri. Just within the door of the Ospizio on the rt. is a relief by Canova — Charity, writing on a pedestal which supports the bust of Ottavio Treuto, the founder of the institution. In the Church, at the end of the rt. aisle, a king offering his son to St. Benedict; at the high altar, the Saviour presenting Gar- lands of Flowers to St. Peter and St. Paul ; both by Maganza. 2nd left, Ze- lotti, Chi'ist delivering the Keys to St. Peter. 2nd rt., two good columns of breccia corallina. To the 1. of the Church, over the entrance to a Chapel, is a good fresco of the Virgin adored by the Confraternity of S. Pietro. PRIVATE MANSIONS (PALAZZi). These may be classed under two heads : those built in the Venetian semi-Gothic style, and those by Pal- ladio and his followers in the Classical. Of the former the Palazzo Schio, in the Corso, is a fine specimen of the period : under the Renaissance gate- way and in the courtyard are several ancient inscriptions, the most interest- ing of which are three in the so-called Euganean character; they were found vJ at the foot of the hills about 6 m. S.E. ^ of Vicenza, over the entrance of a cavern, and are supposed to have belonged to the Euganean tribes, who preceded the Romans in this part of Italy, as the Etruscans did beyond the Apennines. Monte 75. — Vicenza : Milsgo Civico. 251 P. CoUeoni (10, C. 3), in the Vene- tian style, with a handsome gateway. Anioug the fine specimens of Clas- sical architecture the most remark- able is the P. Porto Barbarano (11, D. 3), by Palladio (1570), Ionic and Corin- thian, with rich festoons. *P. Giulio-Porta (D. ;E. 2), better known as the Casa del Diavolo. " This fragment is by some attri- buted to Palladio, by others to Scamozzi ; but the latter disclaimed it, and it appears to me to be Palladian. Whoever was the architect, we may certainly pronounce it a noble design, although a very small part has been executed, and that fragment is nearly in ruins." — Woods. P. Tiene (16 D. 3). The front was designed by Palladio, while the back part, now the Banca Popolare, is in an earlier style. P. Trissino, nearly opposite, by Scamozzi; a noble edifice, though it wants something of that undefinable grace of proportion we admire in Pal- ladio, and it stands in so narrow a street that one can hardly judge of it fairly. There is a pretty little Cortile here. P. Valmarana (13, D. 3), by Pal- ladio, only in part completed. Com- posite. Casa Pigafetta. In the Contrada della Luna, a narrow street behind the Basilica, is a fine specimen of highly decorated domestic architecture (1481). It consists of a basement and two upper stories, each with three win- dows, surmounted by a cornice. On the basement are sculptured groups of roses, with the inscription in French, " II n'est rose sans espines," and " K. L. Augusti." The windows have elaborately-carved balconies and canopies, ornamented with griffins and other animals, the spaces between being covered with arabesques in low relief, flowers, eagles, &c. It was inhabited by the celebrated navigator Antonio Pigafetta, one of the com- panions of Magellan. The family still exists at Vicenza. The name of the architect is not known. The Teatro Olimpico (20, C. 4) is the most curious of the works of Palladio. [Custodian behind the Theatre, 1. of the Bridge (50 c.).] The Accademia Olimpica of Vicenza had been accustomed to act transla- tions of the ancient Greek tragedies, and Palladio being a member, they employed him to give the designs for this fabric, of which the first stone was laid on the 23rd of May, 1580; but in consequence of the death of the architect, which followed almost imme- diately afterwards, it was raised and completed by Seilla Palladia, his son. He followed, as strictly as he could, the text of Vitruvius and the remains which existed. The scenery, which is fixed, represents the side of a species of piazza, from which diverge streets of real elevation, but diminish- ing in size as they recede in the per- spective. Daylight, however, by which a ti'aveller usually sees it, is injurious to its effect. As an opening piece the academicians performed the ' (Edipus Tyrannus,' a play to which the scenery is entirely unadapted. It is such as would have been used for the comedies of Menander, and other plays of the New Comedy. P. Chierigati (12, C. 4), one of the finest of Palladio's palaces. The lower order has a fine Doric portico, the upper an Ionic, with two Loggie on the sides. It has been purchased by the Municipality, and restored accord- ing to the original plans of the great architect. During the bombardment of Vicenza in 1848 by the Austrians, a cannon-shot pierced the roof and in- jured the vaulting of its great saloon. Here is the Museo Civico, contain- ing a small Collection of Antiquities, on the ground-floor (open daily 11 — 2, free ; at other hours, small fee). The handsome vestibule is paved with an- cient marbles, discovered in the exca- vations of the neighbouring Roman 252 lioutc 75. — Vicenza : Pinacotcca. theatre. Around the walls are ar- ranged various fragments, including some remarkably fine broken columns of Affricnno and cipollino, and some draped Statues. A handsome staircase, lined with medallions of celebrated men of Vicenza, leads to the first floor, where is the *Pmacoteca. There is no Catalogue, and no method of arrangement ; but the little Gallery is of very high interest, as containing several fine and untouched paintings by Montagna. The large Saloon is handsome. Pictures. — Antonello da Messina : Head of Christ, at the Pillar. Bassano : Large lunette of the Vir- gin and Child, with kneeling Saints and Senators, and several portraits, including that of Fracastoro. — Dead Christ, damaged. Bernardino da Murano: Large Vir- gin and Child with SS. Anthony the Hermit, Jerome, Francis, and a Mar- tyr. Bissola : Virgin and Child, with SS. Koch and Sebastian. — Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Jerome, and Anthony of Padua. Buonconsiglio : *Pietk. Bussati : St. Anthony of Padua — •' his only authentic picture." — K. Byzantine : Virgin and Child. Cima da Conegliano : * Virgin and Child, with SS. James and Jerome (1489), his earliest signed work. " The draperies are equal to his best —the architecture has also the pre- cision of his later works. The heads are all good." — Eastlahe. Dutch School : Crucifixion with Saints. Ferrarese School: St. Barbara. FogoUno : Adoration of the Magi, much damaged. — St. Jerome. Luca Longhi : Virgin and Child. Maganza : Portrait of a Boy, seated at Table. Mocetto : Virgin and Child. Montagna : *Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Bartholomew, Fabian, and Jerome ; below, a predella with scenes from the martyrdom of a Saint. — ""Presentation in the Temple. —Virgin and Child, with SS. Theresa and Mary Magdalen. —Virgin and Child, with SS, Onofrius and John ]3apt. — Two small examples of the Virgin and Child. I'almezzano : Pieta. Paolo da Venezia : Ancona — the Death of the Virgin, with numerous single figures of Saints on gold ground (1333). Paolo Veronese : Virgin and Child, with SS. Colomba and Peter. Speranza : Assumption of the Vir- gin, with SS. Thomas and Jerome. Strozzi : Last Supper. In a cabinet below this picture are the Shoes of red velvet embroidered with gold, worn by the Doge at his marriage with the Sea (see Venice). Tiepolo : Conception of the Virgin. Umbrian School : Small oblong Mar- riage of the Virgin. Vandych : Virgin and Child, with S. Rosa and a warrior. \ Beyond the picture gallery is an ex- tensive series of Engravings, and a collection of 56 original Drawings, by the three great architects of Vicenza — Palladio, Scamozzi, and Calderari. Those of Palladio are particularly in- teresting. They consist of designs for some modern edifices, such as the pa- lace at Vicenza, and the Rialto bridge at Venice ; and of copies of ancient Koman edifices, triumphal arches, temples, thermse, &c., as they existed in his time. The Collections of Natural History consist principally of objects from the neighbouring provinces. Amongst the fossil organic remains are the bones of a rhinoceros from the bone breccia of Monte Zopea, near Soave, and a fine fossil shark from Monte Bolca ; there is also an extensive herbarium, in which has been incorporated that of the Venetian provinces, formed by the celebrated Arduino. In an adjoining room are Coins, and the smaller speci- mens of ancient Sculpture, discovered by Count Velo during his excavations at Rome, chiefly in the baths of Cara- calla. Near the summit of Monte Berico, S. of the city, rises the Servite Church of the *Madonna del Monte, a cele- Boute 75. — Vicenza: Botonda Cap-a. 253 brated place of pilgrimage. It is best reached by a covered Portico 730 yards long, with 163 arches, which ascends from the Bridge (F. 3) near the Rly. Stat. Each of the arches of the Portici del Monte bears the shield, device, or name of the fraternity or individual at whose expense it was erected. The Church was built in 1428, to commemorate the apparition of the Virgin to a lady of Vicenza, and the liberation of the town from the plague. Of this period is the Gothic S. end; the rest was added in 1688, in the form of a Greek cross, which in- ternally is very beautiful. The nave of the old Church has thus become the transept, and the altar now stands in the middle of one of the original aisles. In a chapel to the rt. of the high altar is an excellent painting by ""Bart. Montagna (1505), the Dead Christ, mourned by Joseph of Arima- thsea, the Virgin, St. John, and the Magdalen. In the Sacristy is a small Pieta in fresco, brought from a dese- crated Servite Church at the foot of the hill. The Refectory of the Convent contains a large Supper of St. Gregory the Great, by Paolo Veronese, 282 ft. wide. It was most wantonly hacked into 32 pieces by the Austrian sol- diery who occupied that building after the bombardment of Vicenza in 1848. The fragments have been since put together, after a good copy made some years before, and now in the Pina- coteca. It was from this hill before it that the Austrians, after having di-iven away the Italian corps which defended the heights, so cruelly bom- bai'ded Vicenza on the 24th May of that year, during 9 successive hours. On the N. side is a Statue, in honour of the Italians who then fell; on the W. a monument has been erected by the Austrian Emperor to the memory of his soldiers. 5 min. higher up the road, bearing to the rt., a charming view is gained of the city of Vicenza, 320 ft. below, and the snow-capped peaks of Friuli ; to the N. are the Alps beyond Bas- sano, the gorge through which the Brenta breaks into the plain, the ser- rated ridges which encircle the upper valley of the Adige, at the foot of which can be easily descried the towns of Bassano, Schio, and Treviso ; to the N.W. the two castles of Montecchio form -very picturesque objects in the landscape. Looking E. from the Church steps are seen the Euganean hills, separated from the Alps by the wide plain in which Padua is clearly visible, and extending to the lagoons of Venice and the shores of the Adri- atic. Immediately at the foot of the hill is the Botoncla (see below). Be- tween the Euganean hills and the equally insulated Monti Berici, both of them volcanic, is the depression through which a portion of the waters of the Bacchiglione are carried to form the canal of Este, communicating with the Adige, To the S. the slopes are covered with villas of the Vicentine gentry, among which that of Count Ramboldo, on the site of a Cistercian convent, is worthy of a visit. The *Rotonda Capra, so well known as Palladio's Villa, copied by Lord Burlington at Chiswick, " is a square building, containing a round saloon lighted from above. From the four sides you ascend on broad stairs, and reach at every side a porch formed by 6 Corinthian pillars. It may be that architecture never pushed splendour to a higher pitch. The space taken up by stairs and porches is far greater than that of the building, because every side would be quite sufficient for the entrance to any temple. The saloon exhibits the finest proportions, as well as the rooms. Every side presents itself from all parts of the adjoining country in a most magnifi- cent manner." — Goethe. Occupied, like the Convent of Monte Berico, by the Austrian soldiery in 1848, it was stripped of everything that could be carried away, its furniture dispersed, and its statues mutilated. 5 min. N.W. is the Villa Valma- rana, surrounded by extensive gar- dens. The central saloon is covered with frescoes by Tiepolo. The tra- veller who does not propose to visit the Roton4a may return to Vicenza by 254 Boiite 7r>. — Padua : Principal Sights. a road which bears rt. from the angle half -way down the Forticl, and ter- minates in a flight of 192 steps, which descend to the Forta Monte (F. 5). Hence a crooked street leads to Pal- ladio's Bridge, the Torite S. Michele (see above). Just beyond the Porta San Bartoh (A. 3) is the Palazzo Trissino in Cri- coli, interesting, both on account of its beauty, and as having been the resi- dence of the celebrated Giovanni Giorgio Trissino, whose name appears on the architraves of the upper win- dows. Trissino was a poet of consi- derable eminence, and it is said that the palace was built from his own designs. The Cemetery (A. 5) consists of a large quadrangle surrounded by a high wall, enclosing porticoes with 124 arches, built of rock. Under the arcades are the vaults and monuments of the higher classes ; in the centre the graves of the poor. In the middle of the N.W. arcade is the monument to Palladio, by Fahris, of Eome, raised at an expense of 5000/. by Count Velo. (See Santa Corona.) Of the other mo- numents may be noticed those of Countess Isabella Velo, with a fine recumbent figure of the deceased on an urn ; the Toguzzaro family, by an artist of Padua ; Count Trissino ; and the Prince of Thurn and Taxis, killed in 1848 in the conflict which took place close to the gates of this cemetery. Rly. to Casttlfranco (Rte. 77); to ScMo and the Sette Comuni (Rte. 7G); to VaJdagno (Rte. 80). VICENZA TO PADUA. The tower and cupola of Monte Berico are seen on the hill above the Stat., and soon after leaving it a tunnel pierces the basaltic rock. On emerg- ing, the ruined Rotonda may be per- ceived to the S. of the line. The Rly. runs over a dead flat, in some places swampy. Before reaching 40 m. Pojana, the low hill of Monte Galdo may be seen on the rt. ; beyond it across the plain rise the Euganean hills. The Ceresone, and afterwards the Brentella, are crossed before reaching 50 m. Padua Juuct. Stat., at some distance from the centre of the town. Cah, within the town, 50 c; 1 hr., Ij fr. ; every succeeding hr., 1 fr. From 'the Rly. Stat, to any part of the town, 2 horses, 1^ fr. ; 1 horse, 1 fr. ; luggage, 40 c. PRINCIPAL SIGHTS. Palazzo della Bagione ; Pal. del Municipio ; Pal. del Consiglio [Li- brary] ; Duomo, Baptistery ; [Pal. Vescovile ; Observatory ; S. Alaria in Vanzo]; * Piazza Viftorio Emanueh [Prato della Valle] ; *Sta. Giustina; 3Iuseo Civico; *Sant'' Antonio and Scuola ; Chapel of San Giorgio; Tornh of Antenor ; University; *Sta.* Maria clelV Arena [Giotto's Chapel] ; Ere- mitani [_Carmine']. PADTJA (Padova la Dotta) con- tains 50,000 inhab., and is perhaps the oldest city in the N. of Italy. It is situated on the Bacchiglione, and its foundation was attributed to An- tenor by the Romans {Yirg. ^n. i. 243). The ancient defences are much dilapidated, but a few towers remain. The numerous street arcades remind the traveller of Bologna, and several canals recall Venice. Here and there, too, are fa9ades with pointed windows in the Venetian fashion. There ai'e some gatewaysby J'a?co?ief^o, in a good style. The Palazzo della Ragione (13, D. 3) is the most peculiar and most national edifice, and was built by Piefro Cozzo between 1172 and 1219. It forms one side of the market-place, standing entirely upon open arches, Route 75. — Padua : Palazzo della Bagione. surrounded by a loggia of the same period. The E. end has some shields and armorial bearings. A vast roof, and said to be the largest, unsupported by pillars, in the world, towers above the edifice. It was added in 1306 by Fra Giovanni, an Augustin fi-iar and a renowned architect and engineer. He had travelled far and wide, over Europe and in Asia, and he had brought back plans and drawings of all the buildings which he had seen ; amongst others, one of the roof of a great palace in India. This design greatly pleased the Paduans, and they requested him to roof their hall (which had previously formed three chambers) in like manner; and Fra Giovanni assented, asking no other pay than the materials of the old roof, which he was to take doAvn. The present roof is of iron, having been renewed in 1857. The interior, commonly called *I1 Salone, is 9 1 yds. long, 30 yds. wide, and 80 ft. high. It was covered with frescoes by Giotto, but these were destroyed by the successive conflagra- tions of the building, especially that of 1410. They were executed accord- ing to the instructions of the physician, astrologer, and alchemist, Pietro di Ahano (1250-1316), the first reviver of the art of medicine in Europe. His bust is over one of the doors of the hall ; the inscription placed beneath it indignantly repudiates the magic and sorcery ascribed to him. The present strange mystical fres- coes, supposed to be the work of anony- mous Padovese and Ferrarese painters, form 319 compartments. They have been repeatedly damaged by fire and water ; and have been entirely re- painted. They represent constella- tions — sacred subjects — apostles and saints — winds and elements — allegori- cal figures of Virtue ; but the principal series consists of the months of the year, with their ruling planets and constellations ; the employments of the month ; and the temperaments, assigned, according to astrological rules, to those who are born under the different astral combinations. The apertures, or windows, are said to be so disposed that the solar rays in each month travel along the representatives of the signs and planets then in ruling activity. Dante is introduced as Sagittarius ; beneath Pisces is a young woman tenderly supporting an aged person ; generally, the figures personify the trades and occupations of human life. Among the sacred subjects are the Coronation of the Virgin — the Magdalene — and St. Paul in prayer. At one end of the hall is the so- called monument of Livxj, erected in 1547. Like the great physician of the 13th cent, he was born at Abano. According to an immemorial tradition, the site of Livy's house can be pointed out in the Strada San Giovanni ; and in 1363 an inscription was found near the Church of S. Giustina, pur- porting to have been placed there by a certain Titus Livius Halys, erroneously attributed to the historian. In 1413 a tessellated pavement was discovered, beneath which was found a leaden coffin containing a skeleton, supposed to be that of the great historian him- self. The discovery excited the great- est enthusiasm, and it was determined to place the remains in the Palazzo. The translation took place with as much pomp as if Livy had been a tutelary saint. The relics were divid- ed : the jawbone was deposited in the Cancellaria ; and Alfonso of Aragon, King of Naples, despatched (1450) a special embassy to request the gift of an arm-bone, which w^as conceded by the Paduans, as appears by an inscrip- tion on a marble tablet over the door. The inscription at Sta. Giustina has been let into the wall ; and statues of Minerva (or Eternity), Fame, the Tiber, and the Brenta, have been added ; above is a bust, upon which are engraved the letters P. T. L. E. (? Patavini Tito Livio Erexerunt). The bones are placed over one of the side doors leading to the Uffizio della Sanita. Over a third door is a relief of Julius Paulus, a native of this city, and praetorian prefect and writer on law of the time of Alexander Severus. Alberto Pado- vano, commemorated over another 250 JRoiife 75. — Padua : Archwio Fuhhlico, doorway (1323), was a preacher of eminence in his day ; Sperone Speroni, a local writer, also has a statue, erected at the public expense, in 1594. The bust erected in 16G1, by the city to the memory of Lucrezia Dondi, is, perhaps, unicjue : it bears witness to her virtue and to her death, under circumstances nearly similar to those of her Roman namesake. Lastly, in this assembly of illustrious Pado- vanese, is the bust of Belzoni, by Rinaldi, in Turkish costume, be- tween the two Egyptian statues which he presented to his native city. No circumstance in poor Belzoni's life pleased him more than his being able to present these trophies to Padua, A medal was struck by the city as a token of its gratitude, in addition to the bust thus placed in this great hall. At one end of the hall is a black granite altar of insolvency {Lapis Vituperii et Cessionis Bonorum), uTpon which debtors cleared themselves by their exposure. The enormous wooden horse, by DonatcUo, formerly in the Palazzo Emo, was executed in 1443 as a model for the Gattemala Statue (see below) ; and afterwards, covered with skins, and bearing a figure of Jupiter on its back, figured at some public re- joicings, held in the city at the expense of Count Capodalista. A meridian line crosses the hall ; the rays of the sun pass through a hole in the centre of a golden face on the roof. Archivio Pubblico. Entrance from the Delegazione Municipale. In a suite of apartments near the entrance to the Palazzo della Ragione, and forming a part of the municipal build- ings, are placed the extensive series of radium archives. Some of these rolls go back to the 9th cent. ; a bull, in particular, of Pope Eugenius II., when the Roman pontiffs signed such documents, instead of, as at a later period, appending a leaden ?;u7/rt. There are several diplomas of the German emperors of the Franconian line. Two of Henry IV. (1091, 1095) are remarkable as showing that he had recourse to the illiterate expedient of a +. The series of the statutes of Padua is very large, including those of Eccelino (1276) and of the Carrara princes (1362). The Palazzo del Capitano occupies the entire W. side of the Piazza de' Signori, now Piazza delV TJnita d' Italia (D. 2, 3). It is in a mixed style : the exterior and the fine door- way are by Falconetto (1532); the staircase, attributed to Palladio, is remarkably fine. A clock-tower forms the centre of the building. Striking clocks are said to have been invented ^t Padua ; and that which stands in this tower is claimed as the contrivance of Giacomo Dondi. It was erected in 1344, at the ex- pense of Ubertino Carrara : the works, however, having been made by Mae- stro Ncvello in 1428. Besides the four-and-twenty hours, it indicates the days of the month, the course of the sun in the Zodiac, and the phases of the moon. Dondi obtained such celebrity for his performance, that he acquired the surname of delV OroJogio. It passed to his descendants, and the family of " Dondi dell* Orologio " still flourishes. Within the Palazzo del Capitano is the Biblioteca Pubblica, a library ori- ginally formed by the University. The large hall, which belonged to the Carrara Palace, was formerly covered with frescoes by Avauzi and Gua- riento; but the hall having fallen, the colossal frescoes of heroes and emperors which now decorate it were painted in 1504, chiefly by D. Cam- pagnola — the portrait of Petrarch, much injured, alone remaining. The printed books amount to upwards of 100,000 vols., and the MSS. to 1500. The Loggia del Consiglio, a gem of graceful architecture on the S. side of the Piazza, erected at the end of the 15th cent., contains a white mar- ble Statue of Victor Emanuel, by TahaccM. The great hall, with its j three handsome windows, was for- merly the place of meeting of the municipal body. The ancient column opposite belonged to a Roman edifice discovered in making excavations Route 75. — Padua : Cathedral. 257 near the Church of S. Giobbe, in the last cent., and is surmounted with a winged lion. N. and S. of the Clock tower are the Piazze dei Frutti and delle Erie, or fruit and vegetable market-places. In excavating for the foundation of the Caffe Pedrocchi, portions of a Roman edifice were discovered, and the mar- bles found have been employed in the ornaments and pavement of the scdone. CHURCHES. The Cathedral (D. E. 2) was built by Andrea della Valle and Agostino Bighetto about 1550 from altered designs by Michel Angelo, but not completed until 1754. In the Sacris- try opening out of the 1. transept are two paintings by Francesco Bassano — the Flight into Egypt and the Wise Men's Offering; Sassoferrato : Head of Madonna ; Padovanino : good copy of a Virgin and Child by Titian ; and a portrait of Petrarch, in profile. Close to the N. door are the busts of Sperone Speroni and of Giulia de^ Conti, his daughter. A modern bust of Petrarch, who held a canonry in the cathedral, by Binaldi, a scholar of Canova's, has been placed in a pas- sage leading out of the 1. aisle. The Sacristy (rt. transept) has on the ceiling some good but much- damaged frescoes, and a picture-frame in ebony, with reliefs by Giov. Cre- masco. Here are preserved some early liturgical MSS., with miniatures of the 12th aud 13th centuries— one, an Evangelarium, painted by a certain Isodorus in 1170; the other an Epis- tolarium, with Scripture histories, by Giovanni Gaibana, in 1259 — and some curious reliquiarii of the 14th and 15th. In the Crypt is preserved the body of St. Daniel, discovered in 1076. On the front and back of the altar are two good bronze reliefs of his martyrdom, by Tiziano Aspetti (1592). In the transepts are several tombs— 1., that of Card. Pietro Prata (14th cent.); rt., Card. Zabarella, with three books at his feet — both bishops of Padua. ¥. Jt&ly. The Baptistery is a Lombard build- ing of the 13th cent., similar to those at Parma and Cremona. The walls and vaulting are entirely covered with fi'escoes, executed at the expense of Fina Buzzacarina, wife of Francesco Carrara the elder, representing his- tories of the Old Testament, by Giovanni and Antonio of Padua ; on the cupola Paradise, with nu- merous angels and saints, and on the walls New Testament scenes. In a dark Chapel close to the door is a fine Gothic ancona in many compart- ments on gold ground. The triumphal arch near the Cathe- dral was erected in 1632, in honour of Alvise Valaresso, captain of Padua. The Biblioteca Capitolare (apply for adm. in the Sacristy) contains up- wards of 10,000 vols., 450 of the 15th cent., and several inedited MSS. Amongst others, those of Sperone Speroni, with several letters of Tasso, a MS. of the 14th cent, containing the description of Dondi's clock, and some splendidly illuminated missals, and collections of decretals, also with miniatures of the i4th and 15th cents. In the entrance-hall are some curious old paintings of 1367, by Niccolb Semitecolo, relative to the life of S. Sebastian, much valued as a docu- ment in the history of the Venetian School. The Palazzo Vescovile contains ruined frescoes by /. Montagnana, a pupil of Giovanni Bellini (1495). In one of the upper rooms are portraits of the bishops of Padua to 1494. In the chapel are the Apostles, in chiaro- scuro, and the Annunciation, by the same artist ; and in the private chapel are several small paintings, and an Ancona with St. Peter in the centre, and the Saviour on the Cross above. Over the door of one of the rooms is a portrait of Petrarch, originally painted upon the walls of his houso, demolished in 1581. It is reckoned as one of the most authentic, and is attributed to Guariento. *SANT' ANTONIO or IL SANTO. " On s Bonte 75. — Padua : Cathedral. 257 near the Church of S. Giobbe, in the last cent., and is surmounted with a winged lion. N. and S. of the Clock tower are the Piazze dei Frutfi and delle Erhe, or fruit and vegetable market-places. In excavating for the foundation of the Caffe Pedrocchi, portions of a Roman edifice were discovered, and the mar- bles found have been employed in the ornaments and pavement of the sal&tie. CHURCHES. The Cathedral (D. E. 2) was built by Andrea della Valh and Agostino Bighetto about 1550 from altered designs by Michel Angelo, but not completed until 1754. In the Sacris- try opening out of the 1. transept are two paintings by Francesco Bassano — the Flight into Egypt and the Wise Men's Offering; Sassoferrato : Head of Madonna ; Padovanino : good copy of a Virgin and Child by Titian ; and a portrait of Petrarch, in profile. Close to the N. door are the busts of Sperone Speroni and of Giulia de' Conti, his daughter. A modern bust of Petrarch, who held a canonry in the cathedral, by Binaldi, a scholar of Canova's, has been placed in a pas- sage leading out of the 1. aisle. The Sacristy (rt. transept) has on the ceiling some good but much- damaged frescoes, and a picture-frame in ebony, with reliefs by Giov. Ore- masco. Here are preserved some early liturgical MSS., with miniatures of the 12th and 13th centuries— one, an Evangelarium, painted by a certain Isodorus in 1170; the other an Epis- tolarium, with Scripture histories, by Giovanni Gaibana, in 1259 — and some curious reliquiarii of the 14th and 1 5th. In the Crypt is preserved the body of St. Daniel, discovered in 1076. On the front and back of the altar are two good bronze reliefs of his martyrdom, by Tiziano Aspetti (1592). In the transepts are several tombs— 1., that of Card. Pietro Prata (14th cent.); rt.. Card. Zabarella, with three books at his feet — both bishops of Padua. N. Italy. The Baptistery is a Lombard build- ing of the 13th cent., similar to those at Parma and Cremona. The walls and vaulting are entirely covered with fi-escoes, executed at the expense of Fina Buzzacarina, wife of Francesco Carrara the elder, representing his- tories of the Old Testament, by Giovanni and Antonio of Padua ; on the cupola Paradise, with nu- merous angels and saints, and on the walls New Testament scenes. In a dark Chapel close to the door is a fine Gothic ancona in many compart- ments on gold ground. The triumplial arch near the Cathe- dral was erected in 1632, in honour of Alvise Valaresso, captain of Padua. The Biblioteca Capitolare (apply for adm. in the Sacristy) contains up- wards of 10,000 vols., 450 of the 15th cent., and several inedited MSS. Amongst others, those of Sperone Speroni, with several letters of Tasso, a MS. of the 14th cent, containing the description of Dondi's clock, and some splendidly illuminated missals, and collections of decretals, also with miniatures of the 14th and 15th cents. In the entrance-hall are some curious old paintings of 1367, by Niccolb Semitecolo, relative to the life of S. Sebastian, much valued as a docu- ment in the history of the Venetian School. The Palazzo Vescovile contains ruined frescoes by /. Montagnana, a pupil of Giovanni Bellini (1495). In one of the upper rooms are portraits of the bishops of Padua to 1494. In the chapel are the Apostles, in chiaro- scuro, and the Annunciation, by the same artist ; and in the private chapel are several small paintings, and an Ancona with St. Peter in the centre, and the Saviour on the Cross above. Over the door of one of the rooms is a portrait of Petrarch, originally painted upon the walls of his houso., demolished in 1581. It is reckoned as one of the most authentic, and is attributed to Guariento. *SANT' ANTONIO or IL SANTO. s On 258 Route 75. — Padua : SanV Antonio, the death of S. Antonio, in 1231 (born at Lisbon in 1195), the citizens of Padua decreed that a magnificent temple should be erected in honour of their patron saint. To accomplish this object, they sent for Niccolo da Pisa, who produced one of the most remarkable buildings in Italy. The fashion of the day compelled him to adopt the Pointed style, but with this he combined some of the Byzantine features of St. Mark's at Venice. St. Anthony's is crowned with 8 cupolas, which give it an oriental character. It is in the form of a Latin cross, 280 ft. in length, 138 ft. in breadth to the extremity of the transepts. It was completed in 1307, with the ex- ception of the cupola over the choir, which was not added till 1424. If the external features are meagre, if the great doorways are bald when com- pared with the contemporary portals of the N., it must be remembered that Nicholas of Pisa was compelled, by the fashion of the day, to adopt a style which he did not like, and which, it must be confessed, he did not under- stand."— 6?. Kniglit. The W. front, which has been completely renewed, has four pointed arches of unequal width, in the centre of which is a niche containing a statue of S. An- tonio (14th cent.). Over this rises a portico of pointed arches with a balus- trade, surmounted by a handsome Lombard turret. The fresco of SS. Antonio and Bernardino, in the lunette over the principal entrance, is by A. Mantegna (1452). The two oc- tagonal bell-towers beyond the tran- septs, on ranges of pointed niches and arches, are very beautiful. The interior is remarkable for the splendour andbeauty of its decorations. On the 1. is the *Cappella del Santo, thronged at all hours by devotees. It was begun in 1500 by Giovanni Minelli and Antonio his son ; con- tinued by Saiisovino, nnd completed by Falconetto, in 1553. The richly- worked entrance pilasters are by Pironi and Matteo Aglio. Nino large and singular reliefs relative to miracles of the Saint, by various artists, surround the walls. 1. (on the left). *His Ordination, by ilf/ne?Zi (1512) ; 2. Raising of a mur- dered woman, by Giov. and Giuliano Dentone (1524) ; 3, *Raising of a Youth, whose father had been unjustly accused of murdering him, by Gir. Campagna ; 4. Women round a dead body ; 5. Raising of a Child, both by Sansovino ; 6. Stone discovered in a miser's breast, by TulUo Lomhardo ; 7. Healing of a broken leg, by the same ; 8. Re-forming of a broken glass, by Sansovino ; 9. *Child bearing witness to its mother's innocence, by Antonio Lomhardo (1505). The altar is of verde antico ; the bronze statues of SS. Anthony, Bonaventura, and Louis are by Tiziano Aspetti. The fine marble sculptures supporting two large silver candelabra are the work of Orazio Marinali (1450), and Filippo Parudi. Further on is the curious Gothic chapel of the Madonna Mora, so called from the swarthy picture over the altar. It formed a part of the Church of S. M. Maggiore, built in 1110, and pulled down to make room for the present edifice. On the S. wall is an interesting sarcophagus of one of the Obizzo family. The sepulchral urn on its other face, turned towards the aisle, belongs to Raffaele Fulgosa, an eminent juris-consult of the 14th cent. Opening out of this chapel is that of the Beato Luca Belludi, companion of S. Antonio, covered with much-restored frescoes relative to St. Philip and St. James, by Giusto Padovano : the appa- rition of S. Antonio to the Beato, to annovmce the liberation of Padua from Eccelino, is historically interesting. In the S. ti'ansept is the beautiful *CappeUa S. Felice. It was originally dedicated to St. James, and erected in 1376, but subsequently to St. Felix, when his remains were deposited here in 1504. It is faced by Gothic arches in red Veronese marble, above which rises an entablature of white and red marbles disposed in fish-scale form. The wall, lunettes, and vaulting are covered with excellent early frescoes, by Jacopo d'Avanzo and Altichieri da Zevio (1376) — " the noblest monument of pictorial art of the 14th cent, in North Italy "—C. and C. — the worse. r Botite 75. — Padua : Sanf Antonio. 259 however, for the injuries they received in clearing off the whitewash with which they had been covered, and for the restorations. The subjects are taken partly from the legendary history of St. James, and partly from the Gospels : they are full of life and expression. The wall behind the altar is divided into five spaces by columns and pointed arches, in the centre of which is a fresco of the Crucifixion. To the rt. the soldiers are casting lots for the garments of Christ. The skill dis- played in this composition seems almost in advance of its time. To the 1. is the crowd following Jesus from the city ; a beautiful group represents a woman supporting the fainting figure of the Virgin Mother, followed by another who is leading her infant son. The 5th space to the rt. is nearly filled with the Tomb of Bartolommeo Scrovegno, wife of Marsilio Carrara, second lord of Padua; above it is the Kesurrection. On the opposite side is the Tomb of the founder of the chapel, Bonifazio cZe' Luin, Marquis of Soragna ; over it is the Deposition from the Cross. Over these are three compartments, each having a pointed arch, filled with a painting. On the 1. is the Denial of St. Peter ; in the centre Christ led to be crucified ; on the rt. the Entomb- ment. In the spandrels to the extreme rt. and 1. of the lower arches is the Annunciation. The opposite end is divided into irregular compartments, and painted by the before-mentioned artists with subjects from the Scrip- tures and from legends. Above the altar are 13th-cent. statues of the Virgin and Child, SS. Paul, James, and Peter ; that of Pope Felix, in the centre, is by MineUi (1504). At the back and on the sides of the altar are some very lovely arabesques. Over the stalls which surround the chapel are good half-figures of Franciscan saints, much injured by restoration. The Choir is enclosed by red marble balustrades and bronze doors. The bronze statues of saints, and of Faith, Temperance, Charity, and Force on the railings, are by Tiziano Aspetti. Beside the altar are Statues of SS. Louis and Prosdocimo. The *bronze reliefs which decorate the high altar, and the fine group of the Virgin and Child, with SS. Giustina, Daniel, Francis, and Anthony, are by Bona- tello. The 16 reliefs of subjects from the Old Testament, and the symbols of the Evangelists, under the Music Gallery, were cast by Bellano, his pupil, in 1488. By Donatello, also, are the great bronze crucifix, and a relief in gilt terra-cotta of the Deposi- tion, over the door leading to the chapel of the relics behind it. The great *Paschal Candlestick of bronze, 1. of the high altar, was exe- cuted by Andrea Riccio in 1654, after 10 years' labour. It is a species of cinquecento adaptation of the antique form, displaying exquisite grace and simplicity. Four figures upon the pedestal symbolise Astrology, Music, History, and Cosmography. The twelve fine *bronze reliefs represent (beginning on the 1.) : 1. Samson ; 2. David and Goliath; 3. Proces- sion of the Ark (sculptor on the 1., holding up his hand) ; 4. Judgment of Solomon ; 5. Judith and Holo- phernes ; 6. Jonah ; 7. Cain and Abel : 8. Isaac; 9. Joseph sold into Egypt; 10. Red Sea; 11. Golden Calf; 12. Brazen Serpent. Of these, 3 and 5 are by Riccio ; all the rest by Bellano. On the little pilasters of the high altar are beautiful bronze figures of Children, by Donatello. On the 1st pier to the rt. of the entrance door is a Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter, Paul, Bernard, and Anthony, by Antonio Boselli. 2nd pier on the rt., monument of Card. Bemho, erected by Card, Quirini, and designed by Sansovino; the bust is by Cattaneo, and the inscription by Paolo Giovio. 3rd altar rt., bronze reliefs by Donatello. In the same chapel are the Tombs of Gattamelata and of his son. The painting of the Crucifixion, with SS. Sebastian, Gregory, Ursula, Bonaventura, and 12 Prophets' heads, on the 5th pier rt., is by /. Monta- gnana. 2nd 1., Virgin and Child, with SS. Joseph and Chiara, and a Fran- ciscan donor, by an unknown painter. The monument to Alessandro Conta- a 2 260 Boute 75. — Padua : San Giorgio. rino, upon the same pier, erected in 1555 at the expense of the republic, is from the design of Sammichcli, the sculptures being by A. Vittoria and Dajiese Cattaneo. In the adjoining handsome Cloisters, and in the passage leading to them, are several sepulchral monuments ; that of Manno Donati (1370) is re- markable for its inscription by Petrarch. On the 1., issuing from the S. door, is the Tomb of Luigi Visconti ( 1 553), by Sammicheli. Many monuments have been brought hither from desecrated churches, one of which, between the two cloisters, is a good Gothic tomb of 1390. From the Cloisters a beautiful view is gained of the Church with its domes and towers. Out of the Cloister which has large pointed arches opens the Library, containing nearly 15,U00 vols. In one of the rooms of the convent is a Holy Family, by Garofalo. Behind the E. end of the Church a small por- tion still exists of the ancient cloister belonging to the demolished Church of Sta. Maria. In a hall opening out of the sacristy are much damaged frescoes of St. Francis and other saints. In the Sacristy is some beautiful intarsia work by the Brothers Canozza (1475), including large figures of SS. Bernardino, Jerome, Francis, Anthony, Louis, and Bonaventura. These are framed in an exquisite Renaissance design, above which is a relief of St. Anthony's mule by Bellano. Close to the Sacristy door is a good recumbent effigy under a pointed arch. In the Piazza, to the rt. of the W. front, is the Tomb of Rolando Piazzola, under a Gothic canopy, one of the staunchest defenders of his country's liberties against the Emperor Henry VII. To the 1. stands the bronze equestrian *Statue of Gatta Melata (Erasmo da Narni), who commanded the Venetian army in 1438, by DoudteUo. It is the only equestrian statue he ever executed, and bears his name, " Opus Donatelli Flor." Close to the former tomb is the *Scuola del Santo, containing some damaced frescoes of the miracles ascribed to St Anthony. No. 1, 5, U, and 12 are by Titian; the rest by Coiitarini, Campagnola, or others of his school. 1. Infant Boy made to speak up for his unjustly accused Mother. 2. Stone found in Miser's heart. 3. Mule on his knees before the Host. 4. Saint announces to Luca Belludi the freedom of Padua from Ezzelino. 5. Death of Saint. G. Opening of his Tomb. 7. Saint throws a glass to the ground unbroken. 8. Reproves Ezzelino. 9. Anthony and Francis (behind Altar). 10. Averts an impending Storm by prayer. 11. Restores to life a woman slain by her jealous husband. 12. Heals a Youth who had cut off his own foot which kicked his Mother. 13. Restores to life a Child boiled in a caldron. 14. Restores a dead man to bear witness that his father had not killed him. 15. (Daub.) 16. Raises to life a drowned Girl. 17. A Boy. 18. Detached figures of Men and Boys, by Titian. The adjacent Chapel of San Giorgio (key at S. Antonio), erected by Rai- mondino da Soragna in 1377, contains some celebrated *Frescoes by ^?^/c/t/er/, assisted by Jacopo cV Ava)izo. The subjects are from the New Testament, and histories of SS. George, Catharine, and Lucia : the large painting of the Crucifixion behind the altar, and over it the Crowning of the Virgin, are very fine ; a votive painting in the upper series on the 1. wall next to the altar represents several members of the Lupa family kneeling before the Virgin, to whom they are presented by S. George their patron. Entrance WALL. — Nativity ; Flight into Egypt ; Adoration of the Magi ; Presentation. — Left wall. — St. George and the Dragon; Magician vainly tries to poison the Saint ; St. George baptizes Boute 75. — Padua : Madonna delV Arena. 261 Zebeo, King of England ; Tortured on the Wheel ; Votive Picture (see above) in two compartments; St. George makes a building fall by prayer ; St. George beheaded. — Right wall. — Two first compartments spoilt ; Angel arrests the Wheel ; St. Catha- rine beheaded. Lower roio : S. Lucia accused before Tribunal ; dragged by oxen to martyrdom ; burnt, and placed in boiling oil ; stabbed ; death and funeral. On the rt. of the last, por- trait of J. d' Avanzo in black. The sarcophagus on the 1. was formerly surrounded by 10 gilt statues of members of the Soragna family, which were destroyed during the occupation by the French soldiery at the end of the last century. The *Madonna dell' Arena (C. 4) stands in an oval garden, the site of an Amphitheatre, whose foundations have recently been exposed to view. (Entrance, 1 fr.) It was built in 1303 by Enrico Scrovegno, the son of Kegi- naldo, consigned by Dante to the Inferno for his usury and avarice. The very curious statue of the founder is in the sacristy, with the inscription, " Propria figura Domini Henrici Scrovegni, militis de r Arena." His dress is merely the ordi- nary '' abito civile" of the time. About this time Giotto, then young, was working at Padua, and Scrovegno employed him to decorate the edi- fice, which still belongs to a de- scendant of the Count Gradenigo of Venice whose sister Scrovegno mar- ried. The Chapel consists of a nave with a tribune at its extremity in a simple Gothic style. These *Frescoes illustrate Sacred History with a dignified as well as touching simplicity, eminently be- fitting the Divine "theme. The sub- jects are taken partly from the New Testament and partly from the Apo- cryphal Gospels. No artist of any period has been more successful than Giotto in telling his story in a striking and intelligible manner, combined with exquisite feeling for graceful beauty and deeply pathetic expression. Second in consideration, but equally remarkable, is Giotto's skill in orna- mental design ; and his judgment must be commended in reserving purely decorative work for the ceil- ing. " The Arena chapel is not only the most perfect expressional work, it is the prettiest piece of wall-decora- tion and fair colour in North Italy." — liusliin. P>ery thing here has been repainted, except the figures in chiaro- scuro, which are precisely as Giotto left them. On the wall over the entrance is the Last Judgment, much injured. The vices of the clergy are brought forward with peculiar prominence. In the centre, and not connected at all with the rest of the composition, Scrovegno is represented offering his chapel, which is accepted by three angels. The uppermost range on the rt. contains scenes from the Life of the Virgin, principally from the Apocry- phal Gospel attributed to St. James the Less. Commencing on the S. wall, and nearest the altar, — 1. Joa- chim driven from the Temple by the priests, because he had not begotten any issue in Israel ; 2. Joachim re- turns to his sheepfolds, and prays during 40 days and 40 nights ; 3. the Angel Gabriel appears to Anna, and reveals that the prayers of her hus- band have been heard ; 4. Sacrifice of Joachim ; 5. Joachim's Vision ; 6. Meeting of Joachim and Anna at the Gate of the Temple — a most graceful composition. On the wall opposite : 7. Birth of the Virgin ; 8. Presenta- tion of the Virgin in the Temple ; 9. Suitors bringing their rods; 10. Watching of the Rods; 11. Marriage of Joseph and Mary; 12. Procession after the Marriage ; 13. Annuncia- tion, over the chancel arch : here the grace which Giotto imparts to his female figures is peculiarly discernible. 2ud row on the rt. — 1. Nativity, injured; 2. Wise Men's Offering; 3. Presentation of Jesus in the Temple ; 4. Flight into Egypt ; 5. Massacre of the Innocents. On the 1. — 6. Our Lord among the Doctors : much in- jured ; 7. Baptism in the Jordan ; 262 Route 75. — Padua: Madonna delV Arena. 8. Marriage in Caiia of Galilee ; 9. Raising of Lazarus : a magnificent composition ; awe approaching to terror in the bystanders, death yet struggling with life in the resusci- tated corpse ; 10. Entry into Jerusa- lem ; 11. Christ driving the Money- changers out of the Temple. On the 1. of the altar is the hiring of Judas, with a demon behind the traitor. Below, on the 1,-12. Last Supper: nuich ornament, very minutely fin- ished, is introduced into the architec- ture ; each Apostle has a marked and peculiar dress, either in colour or fashion, wliicli is preserved in all the other paintings in which they are in- troduced ; 13, Christ washing the feet of the Apostles — a very beautiful com- position ; 14. Jesus betrayed by Ju- das; 15. Jesus before Caiaphas ; 16. Jesus scourged and crowned with thorns; 17. Jesus bearing the Cross — a full composition with some beau- tiful groups, particularly Mary and her companions pushed back by the Jews; 18. Crucifixion: the thieves are omitted ; 19, Deposition from the Cross. In expression this is consi- dered the finest of all the existing works of Giotto, here or elsewhere : the deep and tender affiiction of the Virgin, the impassioned eagerness of St, John, and the steady composure of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathsea, are all in accordance with their cha- racters ; 20. Resurrection and Noli Me Tangere : the figure of St. Mary Magdalene is an admirable personifi- cation of devotion; 21. Ascension; 22. Descent of the Holy Ghost : sin- gular in its arrangement. The lowest range of paintings con- sists of allegorical or symbolical figures of the Virtues and Vices inter- mixed into architectural compart- ments, presenting imitations of marble, panelling, &c., with borders, exactly like those executed in mosaic upon the tomb of Edward the Confessor in Westminster Abbey. This species of decoration seems to liave been a fa- vourite amongst the Italian artists of the time of Giotto, as it is found in the papal chapel of Avignon, painted in his style or by his school. Opposite to each Virtue is the antagonistic Vice; the figures are tinted in chiaroscuro. In many the allegory is intelligible, in others obscure. The Virtues are turned towards the Paradise, the Vices in the direction of the Inferno or Last Judgment. Commencing on the rt. by the door — Hoiye, winged, scarcely touching the earth which she is quitting, and eagerly stretching forwards and upwards to the celestial crown. — On the opposite wall : De- spair, a female, who, at the instigation of the Fiend, is in the act of hanging herself. — Charity, a triple flame issu- ing from her head. Her countenance is beaming with joy. She holds up her right hand to receive gifts from heaven ; and in her left is a vase from which she dispenses them. — Envy, standing in flames ; a serpent issues from her mouth, and recoils on her- self ; she has the ears and claws of a wolf. — Faith, holding the Creed, and trampling on a horoscope ; in the other hand she grasps the Cross. When Ave recollect the trust which, in the age of Giotto, was placed in astrologers, the boldness of thought which this figui-e discloses will be appreciated. — Unbelief, a Roman helmet upon her head, in her hand an ancient heathen idol,to which she is noosed,and by which she is dragged to the pit ; she turns her back on the hand from heaven bearing a scroll. — Justice, a crowned matron seated upon a throne, her countenance severe and thoughtful. In one of the scales of the balance an angel presents a laurel-wreath to the good ; in the other is the destroyer w'ielding the sword for the punishment of the wicked. Beneath is a composition with figures hunting, sporting, merchants travel- ling ; apparently indicating the ease and comfort enjoyed by those who live under a good government. — Injustice, an elderly man in the dress of a judge, of a harsh and forbidding countenance : he is " sitting in the gate ;" but the path to his tribunal is overgrown with thorns and briers, and his fingers ter- minate in claws. In one hand he holds a sheathed sword in vain — ■ evidently no terror to evil-doers ; in the other a hook, the emblem of rapa- Boute 75. — Padua : Eremitani. 263 city. In the compartment below, the travellers represented above are as- saulted and murdered, indicating a contrast to the figures on the opposite side, the miseries of living under an evil government. Under his robe appears a coat of mail. — Temperance, a female figure fully draped. She holds a sword, but it is bound into the scabbard : a bit is placed in her mouth — emblem of restraint. — Anger, a hideous crone, tearing her dress. — Fortitude, in ancient armour ; the skin of a lion thrown over the shoulder. She rests tranquilly upon the shield which she opposes to her enemies. — Inconstancy, a young girl, falling backwards from a wheel, upon which she tries to balance herself; in allu- sion to Eccles. xxxiii. b.— Prudence, sitting at a desk, and contemplating herself in a mirror. At the back of her head is the face of an old man, but apparently a mask, or part of her head-dress, and not a second face, as in the tomb of San Pietro Martire at Milan. Eaphael adopted this mode of allegorising the Virtues. — Folly, in a fantastic dress, probably intended for that of a court fool or jester. The Choir is painted with the history of the Virgin, probably by Giotto's pupil, Taddeo Gaddi. They are much inferior to the rest, and represent : 1. Visit of the Virgin to St. Elisabeth ; 2. Compact between the Devil and Judas ; 3. the Virgin announcing her death to St. John; 4. (opposite) Her Death ; .5. Obsequies of the Virgin ; 6. Ascent to Heaven ; 7. Coronation. Behind the altar is the Tomb of Enrico Scrovegno, who died in exile at Venice in 1320. The altar is surmounted by small statues of the Virgin and Child, with two angels. The sculptor is un- known, although on one of the statues is cut the name of Johannis Magistri Nicoli, whence it has been supposed the work of GioA% Pisano. The win- dows of the chapel mostly retain the ancient Venetian glazing — small cir- cular panes of thick glass — which adds to its antique effect. In the small Sa- cristy, opening out of this tribune, is the statue of the founder in a Gothic niche. II Carmine (B C. 3) is of the 16th cent. The Sacristan keeps the key of the Scuola adjoining on the rt. Here are several frescoes by Girolamo da Santa Croce and Campagnola. By the former, Nativity of the Virgin, Her Presentation, Purification, and Marriage ; by the latter, *Nativity of Christ and Adoration of the Magi. At the altar, Virgin and Child, wrongly ascribed to Pahna Vecchio. To the 1., Meeting of Joachim and Anna, an inferior work by Titian. A Statue of Petrarch was erected in the Piazza to commemorate the 500th anniversary of his death, in 1874. Close to the Ponte Molino, S.W. of the Church, is an old toiver bearing a tablet with this inscription, " Eccelino eresse, 1250." On the other side of the bridge the street passes under another tower, which is inscribed, " Da questa Torre Galileo molta ira de' cieli svelb." The Eremitani (C. 4), a Church of the Augustines, was erected between 1264 and 1276, and restored in 1880. The panelled wood roof was added in 1306 by the same Fra Giovanni who put up that of the Palazzo della Ra- gione, and who is said to have em- ployed here the old one which he ob- tained for his labour. From its sim- plicity as well as its ornament the in- terior is impressive. It consists of a single nave, nearly 300 ft. long, lighted from the extremities. Over the S. door is the bust of its architect, Giov. Lando. The large Choir has some curious Frescoes, attributed to Guariento, remarkable for their mys- tical and allegorical character. The lower tier in chiaroscuro represents planets ruling the constellations more peculiarly appropriated to them, or, as some suppose, the Days of the Week. Above are large paintings, in six com- partments on either side, representing subjects from the lives of St. Augus- tine ; some of them have suffered from damp, time, and neglect. In the 26-1 Boute 75. — Padua: S. Francesco. Chapel to the rt. of the Choir is a good Gothic tomb. By Mantegna (14o8) and his school are fine ♦Fres- coes in the adjacent CajyptUa SS. Ja- copo e Cr/'stoforo. The two frescoes of the death of St. Christopher have been detached from the wall. They have suifered greatly of late years, and the figure of the Saint in both has almost entirely disappeared. The soldier holding a spear, at the entrance on the rt., is a portrait of Mantegna. The compartments of the upper row are by Bono and Ansuino, of Forli, disciples of Squarcione. At the altar are co- loured terra-cotta figures of the Virgin and Child, with SS. Francis, Anthony of Padua, John Bapt, James, Chris- topher, and Anthony the Hermit, by Giovanni da Pisa, a pupil of Dona- tello. Behind the altar is the ♦As- sumption of the Virgin, by Pizzolo, the competitor of Mantegna. Near the W. end of the Church is the Tomb of Jacopt) Carrara, 5th lord of Padua, the friend and patron of Petrarch, who composed the Latin epitaph upon it. Opposite, on the S. wall, is that of his father, Ubertino (1354;. Each is beneath a canopy as large as a church portal : the figures are of beautiful execution. The countenance of Ubertino, the hard old man, is expressive. With the excep- tion of these tombs, there are but few memorials of the once powerful lords of Padua. The extinction of the family is one of the most gloomy events in the history of Venice. After a valiant defence the last Francesco Carrara and his two sons sur- rendered Padua to the Venetians (14i)5) : they were independent princes nowise subject to Venice ; but by the Council of Ten they were condemned and strangled in the dungeons of St. Mark in 140(3. Francesco made a des- perate resistance in his cell, but was overpowered, and a member of the noble family of Priuli did not disdain to perform the task of executioner. On the W, wall are Statues in stucco with beautiful Renaissance arabesques: rt., S. Bernardino, between SS. Peter and Andrew ; 1., SS. John Evan, and Bartholomew. The monument to the architect is in the S.W. corner of the rt. tran- sept : an odd half-length statue, clad in a robe. On the 1., half-way along the N. wall, is the splendid monument of Benavides, professor of law (1583), by Ammanati. The artist has equally displayed his talents as a sculptor and as an architect. Benavides would not trust his executors, and [therefore he erected this memorial in his life- time. It is decorated with allegorical figures of Wisdom and Labour, Honour and Fame. In a Chapel 1. of the Choir is the Tomb of Gen. San- guinassi. In the Sacristy, to the rt. of the entrance, is a Gothic monument in red Verona marble to the painter Paulus de Venetiis (1429). He is lecturing to his pupils, men as old as himself, with cowls and hoods ; but, as at Pavia, the dignity of the professor is preserved by his being represented four times as large as his auditors. Over the altar, St, John in the Desert, by Guido Reni. To the 1. a relief, by Canova, to the memory of William Frederick, Prince of Orange, who died at Padua in 1799, at the age of 25. It represents the ever-recur- ring weeping female figure, with a pelican. In the Oratory of S. Filippo Neri, opening out of the Sacristy at S. Tom- maso (E. F. 3), under glass, is a beautiful fragment of a Virgin and Child, by Giovanni and Antonio da Murano. S. Francesco (6, E. 4) was designed by Sansovino. The second chapel on the rt. has frescoes by Girolamo da Santa Croce (1530^, representing the Birth, Presentation, Annunciation, and Marriage of the Virgin, with figures of Charity and Faith, and heads of Prophets and Kings on the piers and arches. In the transepts are the divided panels of a monument to Pietro Ivoccabonella with bronze reliefs by Bellano (149S)— the Professor at his desk, and the Virgin and Child with SS. Francis and Peter Martyr. Below this is a good kneeling-figure Boiite 75. — Padua : Santa Giustina. 265 in white marble. To the N. of the Church is a picturesque Cloister. San Gaetano (D. 4) has a fagade by Scamozzi, There is a small half- figure of the Virgin by Titian, in the chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, reached by some descending steps on the 1. *Santa Giustina (G. 4), supposed to stand on the site of a Temple of Con- cord, has been repeatedly ruined and rebuilt. The present large edifice was begun in 1502, by Padre Girolamo da Brescia, and completed in 1532- 1549, by Andrea Morone. The brick front, approached by a broad flight of steps, is rough and unfinished ; but the general style of the interior is good, from its proportions, its great expanse, and its piers and cupolas. The aisles form a series of vaulted recesses opening into the nave, and communicating with one another by lower arched openings. The *Martyrdom of Sta. Giustina, at the high altar, is by Paolo Veronese. At the 4th chapel rt. is the Death of Sta. Scolastica, by Luca Giordano ; 5tli rt., St. Benedict with SS. Placidus and Maurus, by Palma Giovane. The chapel rt. of the choir contains a beautiful group by Parodi, represent- ing a Dead Christ, with the Virgin, Mary Magdalene, and St. John. The fine *sculptured woodwork of the choir was executed from designs of A. Campagnola in 1556. On the upper row, New Testament subjects — Old Testament scenes on the lower. On the lower stalls, statues of the Evangelists, Latin Doctors, Isaiah, and David, SS. Giustina and Prosdocimo ; close to the altar on the rt., Conver- sion, Preaching, and Arrest of St. Paul ; 1., St. Peter healing the cripple, Baptism of Cornelius, and Death of Ananias. In the passage leading to the Sacristy is a very early piece of sculpture, representing Justice with two kneeling figures. Beyond, in the ante-room, are some damaged reliefs, and various scraps of fresco. The stalls in the Coro Vecchio, the only portion of the older Church that was preserved, are by two artists of Parma and Piacenza (1448). They are inlaid with beautiful architectural designs. Here is a recumbent effigy of Jacopo degli Zocchi, Doctor of Laws, and opposite that of an Abbot. At the altar once stood Eomanino's great picture, now in the Museum. In the Chapel of S. Prosdocimo, below this, is a white marble carving of the Saint, by a monk of the Convent. Steps lead down to the Catacombs of SS. Giustina, Prosdocimo, and Daniel. The Chapel of S. Prosdocimo also contains a miraculous image of the Virgin, supposed to have been brought from Constantinople by St. Urius, where it escaped the flames raised to destroy it by the iconoclast Emp. Constantinus in the 8th cent. The altar in the 1. transept is supported by two spiral columns of alabaster, and two of rare granite. Behind it is a sepulchral urn erected by Gualfortino Mussato in 1316 for the remains of St. Luke. It is adorned with alabaster reliefs of the Evangelistic symbols and four Archangels. In the opposite transept is the altar of St. Matthew, with Greek marble reliefs of the Apostles, Facing this Church is the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II., formerly called the Prato della Valle, a large, irregular open space, the centre of which is occupied by an oval sur- rounded with Statues, and by a canal supplied with water from the Bac- chigiione. It was intended to limit the memorials to the great men of Padua ; but as even local fame could not supply a sufficient number of sub- jects, they have been forced to enlist some celebrities from other countries, who, as Auditores Patavini, had been educated in the University : Antenor, Pietro di Abauo, Petrarch, Tasso, Galileo : 78 in all. That of the Marquis Giovanni Poleni, a corre- spondent of Sir Isaac Newton, is one of the early works (1789) of Canova. Gustavus of Sweden, the " Lion of the North," has a full right to his station here, for in 1609 he studied at Padua, and attended the lectures of Boiite 75. — Padua: Churches; Phiacoieca. 266 Galileo : and in consequence of this, when his unfortunate namesake visited Padua in 178'^, he requested permis- sion to erect this statue of his great ancestor. Excellent statues of Giotto and Dante, by Vela, have been placed beneath the Gothic Loggia, erected in 1863 as a Grand Stand for the judges at the annual races (12th June), on the W. side of the Prato. S. Maria dei Servi (E. 3), now a Parish- Church, has a 15th-cent. Pieta in fresco beyond the 1st altar rt., and a bronze relief by Bellano of two University Professors adoring the Virgin and Child, over the Sacristy door. Sta. Maria in Vanzo (F. 2, 3) is entered through the adjoining Se- uiinario, of which it is now the Chapel. Over the high altar is the Virgin and Child with SS. Peter, John Bapt., Catharine, and Paul, by Bartolommeo Montagna. The fresco of the Corona- tion of the Virgin on the vault is by the same painter. In the Chapel to the 1. is an Entombment, by Jacopo Basmno. The artist, according to his custom, has introduced portraits of himself and his family. In the ■ith chapel on the rt. is a painting by Maganza of the Madonna with the Virgin Martyrs, SS. Barbara, Agnes, Giustina, Catharine, Apollonia, Ce- cilia, and Lucia. The frescoes over the arches of the gallery that crosses the church are by Campagnola, The adjacent Seminarw Vescovile, or Col- lege for students in Theology, contains a library of upwards of 40,000 printed books and several MSS., amongst which is an autograph letter of Pe- trarch to Jacopo Dondi, a curious Psalter of the 14th cent., and the original MS. in 12 vols, by Forcellini of his great Latin Dictionary. San Michele, an Oratory, W. of S. Maria in Vanzo, is a fragment of a demolished Church, which Avas full of good frescoes. On the 1. wall is the Adoration of the Magi, by Jacopo da Verona (1397), with portraits of the Carrara family. The four heads to the rt. in the Funeral of the Virgin opposite are said to be those of Boc- caccio, Dante, Petrarch, and Pietro di Abano. Above this, St. Anthony the Hermit ; to the rt., Descent of the Holy Spirit. A little further W. is the Specola, or Astronomical Observatory, situated in the mediaeval tower of S. Tommaso, formerly the principal defence of Padua on the W. side. Erected by Eccelino da Romano, it served as the prison in which many of his victims suffered. The Observatory is well supplied with instruments from Lon- don, Munich, and Vienna. The view from the summit is very fine, over the N.E. Alps, the Lagunes of Venice, and the Eugauean Hills. Santa Sofia (D. 5), supposed to be the ancient cathedral of Padua, is an interesting I2th-cent. Church of basi- lica form, much modernized. Part of the original apse may be seen beyond the Sacristy, to the 1. of the high altar. It contains some early paintings. The MusEo Civico (F. 4) is a modern building on the site of the old monastery of S. Antonio. In the beautiful pointed Cloisters are the Roman antiquities found beneath the Caflfe Pedrocchi (see above), consisting of broken columns, and various archi- tectural fragments. On the further side is the Tomb of the Volumnii, among numerous sepulchral monu- ments. A handsome staircase leads to the badly arranged but interesting Pinacoteca, a Collection of Pictures obtained from suppressed monastic buildings, or purchased by the city (50 c). Bamiti : 139, Virgin and Child, ■with SS. Peter and George. Boccaccrno: 146, Virgin and Child, with SS. Lucia and Catharine. — 204, *S. Agata. Bon if az 10 : 50, Adoration of the Shepherds, with SS. Francis and Catharine. — 159, Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Francis, Jerome, and Sebastian. Boute 75. — Padua: Botanic Garden. Campagnola : Beheading of St. John — a fresco transferred to canvas. Campi : Virgin and Child. Francesco da Saiita Croce : 187, Marriage of St. Catharine. Garofalo : 287, Holy Family. Girolamo da Santa Croce: 40.3, Virgin and Child with many Angels. — 12, Holy Family, with the Almighty above. Lor. Lotto (School of) ; 116, Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Catharine, and a donor. Luca Longhi : 226, S. Giustina. — 239, Presentation in the Temple. Morone (Francesco) : 36, *Virgin and Child. Padovanino : 286, *Bathsheba. Palma (School ofj : 86, Virgin and Child, with two donors. Palma Giovane : Small copy of Michel Angelo's Last Judgment. Palmezzano : Virgin and Children. Pordenone ('School of) : 29, Virgin and Child, with SS. Nicholas, Louis, and donor. Romanino : 209, * Virgin and Child, with SS. Benedict, Giustina, Pros- docimo, and Scolastica ; Innocents on the predella, Pieta above. A large and celebrated painting, formerly at S. Giustina.— 231, Virgin and Child, with SS. Benedict, Giustina, and a Singing Angel '^1521). Sassoferrato (Pietro Paolo) : 244, Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter and Sebastian (1497). Squarcione : St. Jerome, with SS. Giustina, Anthony the Hermit, John Bapt,, and Lucia — "much repainted and injured, rude, ill-drawn, and ill- coloured, but the only genuine picture by the painter known to exist" (K.). Tiepolo : 297, St. Patrick. Torhido : Portrait of a Youth, crowned wath a wreath. Venetian School : 169, Christ meet- ing His Mother on the way to Cal- vary. Vincenzo da Treviso : 91, Presenta- tion in the Temple. Here are also modern pictures, pieces of sculpture, and other objects bequeathed by Cavaliere Bottacini. Magni's Reading Girl was much ad- mired at the London Exhibition of 1862. The collection of bronze, tains a small candelabrum by Br>^ , (or Riccio), the sculptor of many reliefs in S. Antonio. The Collection of Coins embraces all those struck at Padua, and many specimens from Venice, as well as the seals of the Carrara rulers. The series of Ancient Deeds and Auto- graphs is most interesting, from the 11th cent, to the present day — three of the unfortunate Doge Marino Faliero are extreme rarities. Forming a part of the Museo is an extensive series of engravings. The Library is rich in works con- nected with Padua, containing nearly 10,000 printed vols., and a large series of MSS. of local interest. Further S. is the Botanic Garden, the most ancient in Europe, having been instituted by the Venetian senate in 1543. The celebrated Prosper Al- pinus professed here in 1545. The garden is interesting as containing some of the oldest specimens of exotic trees and plants now common in Europe, the patriarchs of our shrub- beries, plantations, and conservatories. The Lebanon cedar, the oriental plane, and a Gleditsclua 93 feet high, may be noticed. The magnolias are siiperb. Attached to the garden is a Botanical Museum with an extensive herbarium. The so-called Tomb of Antenor (17, E, 4) is a large antique marble sarco- phagus, resembling those of the Lom- bard period at Eavenna, supported by stumpy columns of the 13th cent., and covered by a brick canopy. It was discovered in 1274 under- ground, containing a second sarco- phagus of lead, and a third of cypress- wood. In the latter was a skeleton grasping a sword, an inscription upon which, in barbarous Latin, was in- terpreted to indicate that the tomb belonged to Antenor. The supposed remains of the founder of the city were then deposited in the Church of San Lorenzo, now demolished. When 270 Route 75. — Venice. The train now reaches 72 m. Venice (It. F6«6'2m). Porters and Commissionnaires are in attend- ance just outside the Stat. Gondola to the Hotel, 1 fr. ; luggage, 15 c. each heavy article. VENICE. PAGE Academy 311 Archsological Museum 2S2 Archives 296 Armoury 31 S Arsenal 318 Artesian Wells 273 Baptistery 291 Biblioteca 2S1 Bridge of Sighs 236 Bronze Horses 287 Browning (House of) 321 Byron (Residence of) 321 Ca Capello 322 Ca d'Oro 324 Campanili 276 Campo Santo 323 Canals 272 Canareggio 325 Carceri 285 Chiesa Evangelica 293 Churches : — Abbazia 303 S. Alvise 293 S. Andrea 325 S. Angelo Raffaele 293 S. Antouino 293 SS. Apostoli 293 S. Bartolommeo 293 S. Biagio 310 Carita 320 Carmini 293 S. Cassiano 293 S. Catariua 293 Crocifisso 297 S. Eustachio 325 S. Fantino 293 Fava 293 S. M. Formosa 303 S. Francesco della Yigna 293 Frari 294 S. Gemignano . . . .'■-.. . . . 299 S. Geremia 325 S. Gervasio e Protasio 310 Gesuati 296 Gesuiti 296 S. Giacomo dell' Orio 297 di Rial to 297 S. Giobbe 297 S. Giorgio de' Greci 298 Maggiore 298 degli Schiavoni 298 S. Giovanni in Bragora 299 Crisostomo 299 Elemosinario 299 dei Furlani 299 e Paolo 299 S. Giuliano . . 302 S. Giusoppe di Castello 302 PAGE S. Gregorio 320 S. Lazzaro 327 S. Leo 302 S. Lor- nzo 302 S. Maiciliano • . . 303 S. Marco 287 S. Marcuola , . . 325 S. Manino 305 S. M. Mater Domini 304 S. Micliele 328 S. M. :Miracoli 304 S. M. Misericordia 303 S. Moise 305 S. il. dell' Orto 302 Ognissanti 302 S. Pantaleone 305 Pieta 303 S. Pietro di Castello 306 Redentore 306 S. Rocca 306 S. M. Rosariol 296 Salute. . ." 304 S. Salvator i 307 S. Samuele 321 Scalzi 308 S. Sebastiano 308 S. Silvestro 309 S. Simone Grande 309 Piccolo 325 S. Spirito 309 S. Sue 325 S. Stefano 309 Tolentini 310 S. Trovaso 310 S. Vitale 310 S. Vito 320 S. Zaccaria 310 S. M. Zobenigo 305 Clock Tower . 276 Correr Museum 316 Corte Contariui 327 Crypt 291 Dogana di Mare 320 5, List of [52] Palace 277 Erberia 324 Fabbriche 323 Flagstaffs Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Turchi , Gardens, Papadopoli . PubUc . . . Royal . . . Ghetto Giorgione, House of . Giudecca .... Gobbo di Rialto . . Gondola, description of Gon'aloni .... Grand Canal . . . Granite Columns . . History Hospital .... Lagoons .... Libraries .... 277 324 325 325 327 286 326 327 306 297 273 Libreria Vecchia , . . Lido Loggietta Manin, Daniel (Tomb of) Lodovico (Tomb of) il4rcv> Polo, House of. . 319 286 271 302 272 282 275 328 288 308 326 Boiite 75. — Venice: History. 271 PAGE Merceria 277 Mint 286 Monte di Pieta 324 Mori, Campo del 303 Morosini, Fr. (Memorials of) .... 309 Mosaics, Manufacture of 320 Museo Civico 316 Museum, Archaeological 282 Arsenal 318 Palad'Oro 290 Palazzo degli Ambasciatori 321 Badoaro Partecipazio .... 326 Balbi 321 Barbarigo 322 Barbaro 320 Bembo 323 Benzon 322 Bernardo 322, 326 ■ Bevilacqua 324 Camerlengi 324 Capello 326 Cavalli 320, 322 Contarini Fasan 320 delle Figure 321 degli Scrigni 320 Corner 320 Mocenigo .... 321, 326 della Kegina 324 Spinelli 322 Correr 316 Da Mula 320 Dandolo 323 Dario 320 Donato 322 Ducale 277 lEmo 320 Falier 326 Farsetti 322 — Ferro 320 Fini 320 Foscari 321 Garzoni 322 Giovanelli 326 Giustiniani Lolin 320 Grassi ......... 321 Grimani 304 a San Toma .321, 322, 324, 326 Gritti 320 Labia 325 Loredan 322 Malpiero 321 Manfrini 325 Manin 323 Manzoni 320 Mastelli 303 Mero Lin 321 Micheli delle Coloune . . . .324 Mocenigo 326 Moro 326 Morosini 324, 326 Municipio 322 Papadopoli 322 ■ ~ Pesaro 324 Pisani 321, 326 Rezzonico 32 1 Sagredo 324 Sanudo 326 Savorgnan 326 ■ Tiepolo 322 Treves ... 320 Trevisan 326 PAGE Palazzo Valmanara 324 Vendramin Calergi 324 Venier 320 Paolo Veronese, Tomb of 308 Piazzetta 274 Picture Gallery, Academy 311 Correr 316 Giovanelli 317 Maiifredini 317 Manfrini 326 Ponte di Rial to 323 dei Sospirl 286 delTeatro 326 Porta della Carta 278 del Paradiso 304 Pozzi 285 Prisons 285 Procuratie 275 Rialto 323 Royal Palace 275 Scuola, Angelo Custode 311 Carmini 293 S. Giov. Evangelista 311 S. Marco ........ 302 S. Rocco 306 Tecnica 321 Seminario Patriarchale 317 Sequins, Origin of 286 Spinalunga 306 Spiral Staircase 327 Stampalia Querini Library 304 Statue of Bart. CoUeoni 301 ■ of Dan. Manin 327 of Goldoni 293 of Paleocapa 309 Synagogues 326 Theatres 327 Tintoretto, House of 326 Titian, House of 327 Tomb of 294 Treasury 292 Tribunal 324 Wagner, Richard (House of) ... . 325 Zecca 28d History. "The name of Venice, or Venetia, was formerly diffused over a large and fertile province of Italy, from the con- fines of Pannonia to the river Addua, and from the Po to the Rhetian and Julian Ali^s." Venetia was divided into Prima and Secunda, of which the first applied to the mainland, and the second to the islands and lagunes. In the first, " before the irruption of the Barbarians, 50 Venetian cities flourished in peace and prosperity : Aquileia was placed in the most conspicuous station ; but the ancient dignity of Padua was sup- ported by agriculture and manufactures." — Gibbon. Venetia Secunda, placed in the midst of canals at the mouth of several rivers, was occupied in fisheries, salt-works, and commerce. (See Intro- duction, p. [51].) 272 Route 75. — Venice: History. Venice owes its existence as a city to the fugitives, Avho, on the invasion of Italy by Attila, sought safety, after the fall of Aquileia, from the sword of the Huns, among the neighbouring islands "at the extremity of the Gulf, Avhere the Hadriatic feebly imitates the tides of the ocean ; near a hundred small islands are separated by shallow water from the continent, and protected from the waves by several long slips of land, which admit the entrance of vessels through some secret and narroAv chan- nels." — Gibbon. In this expanse (the Laguna or La- goon) are several small islands, among which the Isold di Rialta (Rivo alto — deep stream), had long served as a port of Padua, and a few buildings for naval purposes had been constructed upon it. The fall of Aquileia, and the self-banish- ment of the neighbouring inhabitants of Concordia — Opitergium, now Oderzo — Altinum, AJUno — and Patavium, Padua — occurred in the year a.d. 452 : but as earh- as 421 a church dedicated to St. James had been erected on the island of Rialto. Sabellico has pre- served a tradition that the earliest buildings of this town were raised on the very spot now occupied by the Cathedral of St. Mark, _ and that the first foundations were laid on the 25th March. As a general description of Venice, that of Rogers is still true, except that the railroad has superseded the passage from the mainland in a gondola. There is a glorious city in the sea. The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, Ebbing and flowing : and the salt sea-weed Clings to the marble of her palaces. No track of men, no footsteps to and fro, Lead to her gates. The path lies o'er the sea. Invincible ; and from the land we went As to a floating citj'— steering in, And gliding up her streets as in a dream, So smoothly, silently — by many a dome. Mosque-like, and many a stately portico, The statues range along an azure sky ; By many a pile, in more than eastern pride, Of old the residence of merchant-kings ; The fronts of some, tho' Time had shatter'd them, Still glowing with the richest hues of art. As though the wealth within them had run o'er. Venice is built upon upwards of 72 islands or shoals, the foundations for the buildings being formed with piles and stone. It is divided into two unequal portions by the CanalazzOy or Grand Canal, whose course (nearly 2 m.) through the city is in the form of an S reversed, and is intersected in all direc- tions by 146 smaller canals, crossed by innumerable bridges. Three main bridges cross the Grand Canal : that of the Kialto, in stone, the other two in iron — one leading to the Accademia delle Belle Arti, the other to the Rly. Stat. The smaller bridges are so numerous, that there is no part of the city— that is to say, no house — which cannot be reached on foot through the narrow lanes called caUi (sing, calk) ; but many of the finest buildings having their fagades on a canal, can only be seen from the water, out of which they rise. A gondola is therefore at times indis- pensable to the stranger. Besides the general term calJe, the narrow lanes where several run together from the rt. and 1. are called lUta ; and when long and paved, the Calle is styled salizada seJciata. When a footway intervenes between the houses and the water it is called a riva . The larger and wider Rive are called Fondamente. The open spaces are Camjn. A canal is Rio. The population of the city is now 153,575, though at the close of the 15th cent, it exceeded 180,000. " The Venetian dialect, or rather language, was formerly so much che- rished as a token of nationality, that the speakers in the Senate were com- pelled to employ it to the exclusion of the Tuscan or Volgare. It possesses great softness and pleasantness of sound, and bears somewhat the same relation to the VoJf/are that the Portuguese does to the Castilian ; the consonants are elided, and the whole softened down : as in Padre, Pare; Madre, Mare; F'tgHo, Fio ; Cam, Ca.'" — Rose's Letters. The principal mamtfactures of Venice are glass, in various forms, mirrors, beads, ornamental vessels, itc, jewellery, gold and silver chains, lace, silver stuffs, silks, and velvets ; soap, wax and sper- maceti candles, sugar refineries, tfcc. Printing is extensively carried on. Ship and boat building prevails to a considerable extent at Venice and Chiog- gia, and a great number of the inhabi- tants depend on fishing and on uaAd- gating the vessels belonging to the port. The latter, exclusive of fishing-boats, amount to about 30,000 tons of shipping, Tomo dalt'Orio tolatneo varorvi EhanosinarLo U B.4. C.5. C.4. B.5. D.3. D.4. C.5. C.5. f or MixrraVs Handbook. PRINCIPM. BUTLDLSOS Palaces Palazzo Reale Doges Palace .... GiovantiUi Pesaro TeTi3-amin Churclies S.JMiirco S.^ostolt I. Citrmini CD 5. C. 5 G B 4 B. 4 .3 4. C. 5. B. 3, C D 3. S.Cassumo B. 4. S.Francesco lieUa Viana B C . 6. 7 Prari " C 3. 4 OesuitL . . - A.B. 3. S. Giacomo di Rialto B. 5 S. Giobbe A. 3. S, (hon^io del Cireci C. 6. 0>'. dfioraio MaaS'^. Giovanni e Paolo, S. M. Formosa, and S. Zaccaria. Venice is the seat of a Patriarch, the only ruling prelate of that dignity in Europe, except the Patriarch of Lis- bon. The Patriarchs who represent the Eastern Church in Rome are only titular. •^PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO. This beautiful and celebrated Square, the centre of business and amusement, is usually entered by the stranger from the W. side, under the Atrio, or Nuova Fahhrica, built in 1810 upon the site of the old Church of San Gemignano (see Plan of Venice at the Arsenal). This Church had already been shifted in the 12th cent, to this spot, having originally stood near the centre of the Piazza. Beneath the central passage of the Atrio is the grand entrance to the Royal Palace (see below). Standing in the square and looking towards the Basilica of St. Mark, on the left runs the long line of the Procuratie Vecchie, beyond which is seen the Torre delV Orologio, or Clock Tower. On the rt. are the Procuratie Nuove, terminated by the Libreria Vecchia, whose front lies towards the Piazzetta. The length of the Piazza is 192 yds. ; its width at the E. end, 90 yds. ; at the W. end, G2 yds. The Piazzetta runs off at rt. angles from the S.E. end to the edge of the canal. On its W. side stands the Lihreria Vecchia ; on the E. the Ducal Palace. Near the Canal stand two granite columns, one sumrounted by the bronze lion of St. Mark, the other by a statue of St. Theodore. Across the water, on a small island, stands the Church of S. Giorgio Maggiore; nearer at hand, and to the rt., are the Dogana and Sta. Maria della Salute, Boute 75. — Venice: Boyal Palace. 275 while to the 1. stretches a long line j of quay at which many vessels are moored, known as the Riva clegli Schiavoni, beyond which the view is terminated by a green point which indicates the Public Gardens. The *Prociiratie Vecchie, standing upon an arcade of 50 arches, within which are shops, form nearly the entire N. side of the Piazza. This fabric was raised by Bartolommeo Biiono and Guglielmo da Bergamo, in 1517, and was intended for the habitation of the Procurators of St. Mark, the most important dignitaries of the republic. Nine in number originally, they were the church- wardens or trustees of San Marco ; Francesco Gradenigo, appointed in 996, being the first upon record. With the increase of the riches of San Marco, their numbers were augmented to about 34, and the enlargement of the board was accompanied by a great extension of their powers. Amongst other duties, they constituted a court of orphans, being their ofiicial guardians and trustees. The Procuratori were in such high repute for their integrity and good management, that it was a common practice for parents in other states of Italy to appoint them executors of wills. The Doge was usually elected from this body. The ofiice was held for life, and, as the Republic declined, a certain number of the places were sold as a means of filling the coffers of the state. This practice began during the disastrous war of Candia. They had two prices ; the old nobility paid 30,000 ducats (6000L) for their gown, the new 100,000 (20,000L). For the accom- modation of the increasing numbers, the Procuratie Nuove were erected on the opposite side of the square. This building is in the two lower stories a continuation of the Libreria, and was designed by Sansovino ; but on his death, Scamozzi, to whom the work was entrusted, added a third story. The sculptures here are elegant, par- ticularly the foliated frieze of the Ionic story, interspersed with sea- gods and nymphs. Royal Palace. The Procuratie Nuove were converted into a Palace by the Vicei'oy Eugene Beauharnais, and now constitute a portion of the Palazzo Beale, which is continued along the W. side of the Piazza above the Atrio (see above). Open on Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 3 (1 fr.) ; entrance from the Piazzetta. The great hall (still called the "^Libreria Vecchia, though the books were transferred in 1812 to the Ducal Palace), was de- signed for the Senate in 1536 by San- sovino and completed by Scamozzi in 1582, to receive their collections of books and MSS., including the dona- tions of Petrarch and Cardinal Bes- sarion. " The Library is a building of noble design, notwithstanding the improprieties with which it is replete. It consists of two orders, — the lower one of highly ornamented Doric, and the upper one Ionic, and very graceful in effect. Of both these orders the entablatures are of inordinate com- parative height. The upper one was expressly so set out for the purpose of exhibiting the beautiful sculptures with which it is decorated. The cornice is crowned with a balustrade, on whose piers statues were placed by the ablest scholars of Sansovino. A portico occupies the ground-floor, which is raised three steps from the level of the piazza. This portico con- sists of 21 arcades, whose piers are decorated with columns. In the in- terior are arches corresponding to the exterior ones, 16 whereof, with their internal apartments, are appropriated for shops. Opposite the centre arch is a magnificent staircase leading to the hall, beyond which is the Library of St. Mark. The faults of this build- ing, which are very many, are lost in its grace and elegance ; and it is, per- haps, the chef-d'ceuvre of the master." — Gwilt. The interior decorations are in keeping with the exterior. On the stairs are eight handsome columns of breccia pavonazza, and in the 2nd Room two of verde antico. On the ceiling of the 1st Room is a painting of T 2 " 276 BoiUe 75. — Venice: Boy al Palace ; Clock Tower. Wisdom by Titian. The ceiling of the great Hall, in which the books were deposited, is filled with very fine orna- ments in stucco, and with 21 paintings by tlie seven best Venetian artists of the time, each painter contributing tliree subjects in a row. The sixth group — Honour, Mathematics, and Music — are hy Paolo Veronese; the rest by Giulio Liciido, Salviati, Franco, Strozzi (of Genoa), Padovanino, and Andrea ScJiiavone. On the rt. ofthe entrance door, Tintoretto, St. Mark de- livering a Saracen ; on the 1. Exhu- mation of the relics of St. Mark at Alexandria. On the 1. wall, Bonifazio, Virgin and Children, withSS. Omobono and Barbara; over the door of exit, Bocco Blarcone, Adulteress. Scattered through the rooms of the Palace are several other pictures by Bonifazio Veneziaiw the younger, Paolo Veron- ese, and Bassano. Twelve portraits of Directors of the Mint and two fine pictures of St. Mark and St. George, by Tintoretto. The ball-room is a fine hall, with 10 chandeliers of Venetian glass. The long suite of rooms terminates at the top of the grand Staircase, designed by Sanso- vino, and decorated by Vittoria. The *Campanile was begun in 902, under the government of Domenico Tiepolo, but was not carried up to the belfry until the time of Domenico Morosini (1148-1155), whose epitaph is so ambiguously worded as to claim the honour of the entire edifice. The height is 323 ft., and the width 42 ft. at the base. The ascent (15 cents.) is by a continued inclined plane a cordoni, which winds round an inner hollow tower. The belfry, an open loggia of four arches in each face, was built in 1510, by Maestro Buono; the whole being surmounted by a lofty pyramid. The general *vieio is mag- nificent, but the canals cannot be seen, and the city looks like an ordinary town on an island, for which reason the ascent of the tower of S. Giorgio is often preferred. A watchman is stationed in the belfry, who strikes the great bell at every j hr. day and night. The Angel surmounting the tower, and serving as a weathercock, is 16 ft. high. At the foot is the much criticised *Loggietta of Sansovino, built about 154:0, ornamented with four bronze statues of Pallas, Apollo, Mercury, and *Peace, cast by him. There are three arches, divided by pairs of columns, within which are statues in niches. The elevation contains several reliefs in marble, of which the three principal are in the attic, and represent in the centre Venice as Justice, with two rivers flowing at her feet : on the rt. of the spectator, Venus — the symbol of the Island of Cyprus : on the 1. Jupiter — the symbol of Crete. The reliefs to the N. beneath the bronze statues are, the Fall of Helle from the Ram of Phryxus, and Tethys assisting Leander. The small bronze gate was cast by Antonio Gai, in 17.50. In the interior, which was used as the station of the Procurators in command of the guard during the sitting of the Great Council, is a Madonna in terra-cotta, by Sansovino. The public lottery is drawn here at 3 p.m. on Sat. ; at other times, apply to the Director at the Ducal Palace. The *Clock-Tower (Torre delV Oro- ologio) has on its face a dial resplen- dent with gold and azure, the sun on the hands travelling round the zodiacal signs which decorate it, and marking the time of twice twelve hours. The two bronze figures strike the hours upon the bell. The Virgin and Child in gilt bronze, and a gigantic lion of St. Mark, upon an azure and stellated ground, decorate the two upper stories. The tower was built by Pietro Lom- hardo in 1494, and restored in 1859. The clock, as appears by an inscription beneath, was made by Giovan Paolo Einaldi, of Reggio, and Gian Carlo, his son. Having been injured by lightning in 1750, it was restored by Ferracina of Bassano, in 1755. The wings on each side of the tower were added at the beginning of the 16th cent. Beneath the clock-tower is the en- trance to the Route 75. — Venice: Doge's Palace. 277 Merceria, the part of Venice which exhibits most commercial activity. Here are some of the principal shops ; and much of the best retail trade carried on in the city is done in this quarter. The streets about the Mer- ceria, and through which a way may be found to the Kialta Bridge, are in- tricate, narrow, and crowded. The three red *flagstaffe (pili) of larch in front of St. Mark's are stepped in beautiful bronze pedestals, and sur- mounted by winged lions. From these masts once proudly floated the three gonfaloni of silk and gold, emble- matical of the three dominions of the republic — Candia, Cyprus, and the Morea. They are replaced by the flag of Italy, hoisted on Feast-days. The elaborate reliefs of sea nymphs and tritons on the pedestals are the work of Alessandro Leopardi ( 1 505). A large flock of pigeons frequent the Piazza and the neighbouring build- ings. They have existed here so long that their origin is forgotten. They are protected by the almost supersti- tious care andatfection of the Venetian people, and are fed with great delight by visitors. A handful of Indian corn thrown down at any time will attract a large number. *DOGE'S PALACE (Palazzo Ducale) —I fr, daily from 10 to 3, Sun. free ; Prisons, 20 cents extra. The first Palace was built on this spot in 820, destroyed in a sedition, and replaced by another, about 970, under the Doge Pietro Orseolo. This last was, 150 years afterwards, de- stroyed by a great fire, which con- sumed a third of Venice. The recon- struction of the present building began under the Doge Marin Falier (,1354-5), from the designs of his relation Filippo Calendar io — the same, accord- ing to modern historians, who appears as a conspirator in Lord Byron's tragedy. That a person so named did take an active share in the plot, and that he was hanged with a gag in his mouth from the red pillars of the balcony of the palace from which the doge was wont to view the shows in the Piazxetta, is unquestionable ; but the contemporary chronicle describes him as a seaman ; and it would seem that the real Filippo — at least, the real artist — died in the preceding year whilst employed upon his works. Very little of Calendario's edifice now remains, the principal part of the palace dating from the reconstruction commenced in 1420 under Doge Tom- maso Mocenigo. In this the family of Bon or Buono, native architects — or, as they are termed in a contempo rary document, stone-cutters (Taja- pieri)—hore the principal part : the most eminent of whom was one of the sons, Bartolommeo. To their period belong the beautiful colonnades to- wards the sea and the Piazzetta, the Porta della Carta, and the passage leading from it to the Great Inner Court, which appears to have been completed about the year 1471. A great deal, particularly the sides of the Court, is of a later date — the in- terior of the building having been reduced to a shell, by two successive fires, in 1574 and 1577. The paintings by Gentile and Gio- vanni Bellini, Carpaccio, Pordenone, and Titian, representing the triumphs of the Republic and the heroes of her annals, together with the vast halls whose walls they covered, perished in these conflagrations. The walls were calcined and riven, and after one corner of the building had fallen, and several columns and arches were shattered, Palladio, who was consulted with other architects, maintained that it would be dangerous to attempt the re-insertion of the floors, and proposed to rebuild the whole palace in a more uniform and elegant style. After much consideration in the Senate, it was however determined not to inno- vate, but to retain the fabric as much as possible in its ancient form ; though in the repairs and alterations of the interior cortile, the later Italian stj-le of the Renaissance was a good deal introduced. The whole building is in course of restoration. Some of the capitals, which were fractured and unsafe, have been replaced by new^ ones, and parts 278 Boiife 75. — Venice: Doge's Palace, of the stone-work, &c., have been re- newed. Exterior. —The plan of the build- ing is an irregular square, of which the W. and S. sides are supported upon two tiers of arches. The upper gallery has ogee arches supporting a line of quatrelbil circles, above which rises a Hat smooth face of wall composed of red and white marble bricks, and broken by seven broad windows with- out tracery. The central window projects, and is decorated with statues, mouldings, cornice, and a balcony sup- ported upon consoles. Along the top of the walls runs a somewhat poor cornice, crowned by stone pinnacles or battlements, not too graceful in shape, each 7 ft. high. The height of the wall above the upper colonnade, ad- ding the cornice, is 39 ft.f The treatment is almost exactly the same on the S. and W. sides, except that the central window of the former is more e'aborate, and unmixed with Renais- sance details. Its two easternmost windows also are of three lights, and retain their tracery. The E. face, in four stories, towards the Bridge of Sighs, is a beautiful early Eenaissauce elevation of Antonio Bizzo (1484). The 7th and 9th columns on the W. side are of larger diameter than the rest, because the one has to carry the N. wall of the Sala del Maggiore Consiglio, and the other the S. wall of the Sala dello Scrutinio. The *capitals, executed probably by Bart. Buono from the designs of Caleudario, are extremely cuiious for their varied designs and elaborate execution. They contain figures and groups emble- matical of goodgovernmentand the due administration of the law ; such as the Justice of Trajan (at the N.W. corner), the Seven Sages, and analogous alle- gories. The 9th and 10th columns of the upper tier, reckoning from the N., as well as the railing between them, are of red marble ; from between these t These dimensions are obtained from Mr. Euskin's ' Stones of Venice,' a work, whicli, whether the reader accepts or rejects its dogmas and opinions, is full of information and interest. two columns, sentences on criminals were proclaimed. The sculptures best worth notice, beginning from the S. end, are the (2) Patron Saints of Sculptors at work; (4) the blacksmith, carpenter, and other artisans, following their trade; (5) the Seven Ages and death of Man — infant, schoolboy, warrior, student, etc.; (7) Married Life — courtship, wedding, birth and death of the first- born ; and, finest of all, the corner capital, wdth Justice, the law-givers Aristotle, Solon, Numa, and Moses, and the Emp. Trajan reining in his horse to listen to a widow's petition {Perhins). Over this capital is the Archangel Gabriel, patron of law- abiding citizens ; over that on the S.W., which represents Adam and Eve plucking the forbidden fruit, is St. Michael who drove them out of Para- dise — a warning against disobedience ; over the S.E. capital, sculptured with the drunkenness of Noah, is Raphael with the young Tobias, whose filial piety is contrasted with the undutiful conduct of Noah's sons. The figures and reliefs of the large window facing the sea were exe- cuted probably towards the close of the loth cent, by Antonio Bizzo. The other large window, towards the Piaz- zetta (1523-1538), is by Tullio Lom- hardo and Guglielmo Bergamasco. The principal entrance to the Pa- lazzo is through the *Porta della Carta, so called from the official placards which used to be posted at the door. It bears the inscription " Opus Bartholoma?i " over the door- way (1439-1443). The statues of Force, Prudence, Hope, and Charity, and the seated figure of Justice above the window, are good specimens of the sculptures of the 15th cent. ; the statue of Doge Foscari, during whose reign this gate was erected, kneeling before the Lion of St. Mark, was brutally broken to pieces by the demo- cratic rabble in 1797, and is replaced by a modern copy. The *Scala dei Giganti, erected to- wards 1483 by A. Bizzo, derives its name Boiite 75. — Venice: Doge's Palace : Pictures. 279 from two colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, hy Sansovino, which stand on either side at the head of the staircase. The beautiful Court by Scarpagnino (1550) has an inner W. front by JRizzo (1490). The portals and arches are inlaid and incrusted with marbles, most delicately worked, by Bernardo and Vomenico da Mantova; and the steps themselves are inlaid in front with a species of intarsiatura in lead. The statues of *Adam and Eve, opposite the Scala dei Giganti, are by Rizzo (1471), and are considered to surpass all previous productions of the Veneto-Lombard School. It was on the platform at the head of these stairs that the Doges were crowned : it was here also that Lord Byron placed the closing scene of Marino Faliero, for which there is no docu- mentary authority. In the courtyard are two finely sculptured bronze *cisterns (puteali), one executed by Nicoolb dei Conti in 1556, the other by Alfonso Alhorcjlietti in 1559. On the 1., ascending the Giants' Staircase, is a beautiful front in two stories, by Guglielmo Berga- masco, forming one side of the Corte de' Senator!. Interior. — On the top of the Giants' Stairs is an inscription let into the wall of the loggia, commemorating the visitof Henry III. of France to Venice in 1574. In the colonnade, which surrounds three sides of the cortile on the 1st floor, are busts of Venetian celebrities — Enrico Dandolo, Morosini, Berabo, Arduino, Lazzaro Moro, Marco Polo, Tintoretto, Fra Paolo Sarpi, Paruta, Carlo Zeno, and Vittorio Pisani ; together with Doges Foscari and Renier, the last but one of the lords of Venice ; also of Galileo, Sebastian Cabot, &c. ; some placed here by their descendants, but the greater number by a society of patriotic Venetian gentlemen. The Scala d'Oro, on the 1., was largely constructed hy Sansovino. The ornaments in stucco are by Alessandro Vittoria, and the paintings by Franco ; the whole was completed about the year 1577. The adaptation of the fretwork to the cove of the ascending roof is particularly skilful. On the loggia beyond this staircase, which is not used by the public, are the Stanze degli Avvogadori, in one of which is a Pieta by Giovanni Bellini; it was here that the Lihro d'Oro, or Roll of the Venetian Aristocracy, was pre- served. A second staircase beyond this, and much less decorated, gives access to the grand halls which occupy the greater part of the building. The fii'st of these is the *Sala del Maggior Consiglio, a truly magnificent Hall, 59 yds. long, 28 yds. broad, and 52 ft. high, begun in 1310, and completed in 1334. It was after- wards painted by Titian, the Bellini, Tintoretto, and Paolo Veronese. The fire of 1577 destroyed it, and the adjoining Sala dello Scrutinio, with all the works of art they contained. It was used for the Council of Nobles, whose names were inscribed in the Golden Book, and who really repre- sented the sovereign power in the state ; it is now the principal place of deposit for the great Library (see below). The decorations of this hall, as recon- structed by Da Ponte, and filled with pictures of the later Venetian school, remain unaltered, and the splendid paintings which adorn the walls are proud memorials of the opulence and power of the Republic, though many of the scenes depicted are more flattering to the national vanity than consistent with the facts of history. The E. wall is covered with Tintoretto^ s immense picture of *Paradise, the largest ever painted upon canvas. Damaged and black- ened by time and picture-cleaners, it is still powerful and impressive. Next to this, on the N. wall: — Carlo and Gabriele Caliari, sons of Paolo Veronese. Pope Alexander III. discovered by Doge Ziani in the convent of La Carita (now the Aca- demy), where, according to the legend, he had concealed himself when flying from Barbarossa in 1177 : he is repre- sented disguised as a poor priest. 280 Boutelb. — Venice: Doge' s Palace : Pictures. 2. The Embassy from the Pope and the Republic to the Emperor, 3. (Above the window.) Leanclro Bassano. The Pope presenting the lighted taper to the Doge. By this act the Doge and his successors ac- quired the privilege of having such a taper borne before them. 4. Tintoretto. The ambassadors meet Frederic II. at Pavia, praying him to restore peace to Italy and the Church, when he made the proud answer, " that unless they delivered up the Pope, he would plant his eagles on the portal of St.INIark." 5. Francesco Bassano. *The Pope delivering the consecrated sword to the Doge previous to his embarkation. The scene is in the Piazza of San Marco, as it stood at the end of the 16th cent. 6. (Above the window.) Fiam- mingo. The Doge departs from Venice receiving the Pope's blessing. 7. Domenico Tintoretto. The great naval battle which the Venetians say (without foundation) took place at Salvore, near Pirano in Istria, when the Imperial fleet was entirely de- feated, and Otho, the son of the Emperor, taken prisoner. The details of armour, costume, and equipments are curious. 8. (Over the door.) Vicentino. Otho presented to the Pope. 9. Palma the younger. The Pope releases Otho, and allows him to re- pair to his father. 10. F. Zucchero. *The Emperor submitting to the Pope. 11. (Over the door.) Girolamo Gam- herato. The Doge, who had co-operated so strenuously in the Pope's cause, having embarked with him and the Emperor, they landed in Ancona on their way to Rome. On this occasion, according to the Venetian chronicles, the Anconitans came out with two umbrellas or canopies, one for the Pope and the other for the Emperor, upon which the Pontiif desired that a third should be brought for the Doge. W. wail :— (The chronological order is the reverse way.) 1. Giulio dal Mora. Consecrated banners bestowed upon the Doge by the Pope at St. John Lateran. 2. (Between the windows.) Faolo Veronese. *Return of the Doge Conta- rini after the naval victory gained by the Venetians over the Genoese at Chi- oggia(1380). 3. Aliense. Baldwin of Flanders receives the Imperial crown from the hands of Doge Dandolo at Constanti- nople. This is untrue, as he was crowned by a legate. Above this is the blank space with record of Marin Falieri's execution (see below). S. wall :— 1. Vicentino. Baldwin elected Em- peror of the East by the Crusaders at Sta. Sophia. 2. Domenico Tintoretto. The second conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders and the Venetians (1204). 3. Palma the younger. The assault of Constantinople bv the Crusaders (1203), led on by Doge Dandolo, blind, and nearly 90 years of age. 4. Vicentino. Alexis Comnenus, son of the dethroned Emp. of Constan- tinople, Isaac, implores the aid of the Venetians on behalf of his father. 5. (Over the window.) Domenico Tintoretto. The surrender of Zara. 0. Vicentino. Assault of Zara (1202) by the Venetians, commanded by Doge Dandolo and the Crusaders. 7. Le Clerc. The alliance between the Venetians and the Crusaders, concluded at St. Mark's in 1201. The ambassadors on the part of the Cinisaders were Baldwin, Count of Flanders, Louis, Count of Blois, Geof- frey, Count of Perche, Henry, Count of St. Paul, Simon de Montfort, the two Counts of Brienne, and Matthew de ^lontniorency. The Ceiling is richly painted and gilded. The oval next to the Throne is by Paolo Veronese, and represents Venice crowned by Glory. The oblong centre painting is by Jacopo Tintoretto, and consists of two parts: above, Venice among the Deities ; below. Doge da Ponte wnth the senators receiving deputations from the cities who tender allegiance to the republic. The other Boute 75. — Venice: Doge's Palace : Pictures. oval is by Palma Giovane : Venice seated, crowned by Victory, and sur- rounded by the Virtues. Two octa- gonal pictures, on either side of the first-mentioned oval, are by P. Verone>S^. Maria della Salute, with the neighbouring desecrated >S'. Gregorio, possessing a fine Gothic choir (1342). The chief buildings of interest ou either side are passed in the following succession : — EIGHT. After passing the gardens of the Royal Palace and the Pavilion, in a classical st} le, built by Napoleon, now the Caffe del Giardino, is the Falazzo Giustiniani (Hotel Europa). Palazzo Treves (formerly Emo), of the 17th cent., containing a collection of pictures by modern artists, and two fine colossal *statues by Canova, of Hector and Ajax (fee 1 fr.). *Palazzo Contarini Fasan, with a narrow front restored in 1857 ; its beautiful windows and balconies are exquisite Gothic of the 14th cent. Close by is the Palazzo Ferro, also of the 14:th cent, which, with the adjacent Palazzo Fini (1688) is now the Grand Hotel. Palazzo Gritti (14th cent.). Campo S. M. Zohenigo. Palazzo Dario, in the style of the Lomhardi; fine decorated front of 1450, incrusted with coloured marbles and bearing the inscription " Geuio Urbis Johannes Darius." Pal. Venier (unfinished). Pal. Da Mula (15th cent.). Near it is the manufactory of glass and mosaics of the Venice and IMurano Company. Campo S. Vito (Vio) : English Church. *P. Manzoni (15th cent.). Campo della Carita. *Palazzo Corner, built by Sanso- vino, in 1532, with a Doric, Ionic, and Composite front. It is now occupied by the Prefect of tbe province, and the interior was altered after a fire in 1817. Pal. Barbara (14th cent.). *P. Cavalli, now the property of Baron Franchetti, with Gothic win- dows of the 15th cent. Campo S. Vitale. IRON BRIDGE. An unsightly erection built in 1853. — 5th St. St. LEFT. RIGHT. Here, with a quay in front, is the Accademia delle Btlle Arti (open 10 to 3) and the brick Church of La Carita. Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni, the one Rustic, Ionic, and Corinthian — by Scamozzi (1G09) ; the other Gothic of the 15th cent. Pal. Giustiniani Lol in, of the 17th cent., by Longlicna. The Giustiniani family claim descent from the Em- peror Justinian. In the 12th cent, the family was nearly extinct, but the Pope temporarily released from his vows the monk Nicholas, a mem- ber of the family, who married the Boute 75. — Venice: Palaces on Grand Canal. 321 Pal. clegli Amhasciatori, IStli cent. Venetian Gothic, with two Statues in the front. *P. Rezzonico, Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, by Longliena (1680), the upper floor by Blassari (1740). Pope Clement XIII. was a member of this family. The palace now belongs to Mr. Browning, whose father, the poet, died here in 1889. Then follow two Giustiniani palaces in the Venetian style of the 15th cent. *P. Foscari, end of the 15th cent., attributed to Bartolommeo Bon, archi- tect of the Doge's Palace. The tragic history of Doge Francesco Foscari is well known. Through the intrigues of the Laredano party, his son Jacopo was three times banished and finally died in exile. On his own deposition in 1457, after ruling for 35 years, the old man retired to his palace, but fell dead on hearing the bell announcing the election of his successor. Here, in 1574, Henry III. of France was lodged ; having served during the Austrian rule as barracks, it was purchased by the Municipality, and restored in 1867. It is now used as the Scuola Ttcnica di Commercio, for young men destined for the Consular service and for mercantile pursuits. The three Palaces at this turn in the canal form a conspicuous group, and are a favourite subject with artists. P. BaIM,hy Aless. Fi^orm (1582}— Rustic, Ionic, and Composite. Behind it is seen the Campanile of the Frari. The temporary building for the public authorities, who distribute the prizes at the regattas on the Grand Canal, is always erected by the side of the Balbi Palace, as it commands a view of both reaches of the great canal, and Napoleon I. witnessed the regatta in 1807 from this palace. Palazzo Grimani a San Toma, a noble building of the 16th cent., pro- bably by Sammicheli. 6th St. St. (for the Frari). *P. Pisani a S. Polo, built at the beginning of the 15th cent,; Venetian Gothic, but the latest of its kind. In this palace was Paolo Veronese's " Family of Darius," now in our Na- tional Gallery. The Pisani, though N. Italy. daughter of Doge Vitale Michael II., and subsequently returned to his convent. P. Malipiero; in the style of the decline, 17th cent. Campo S. Samuele. Good Tower. The large *P. Grassi (1745), Rustic, Ionic, and Corinthian, restored by the late Viennese banker, Baron Sina. P. Mow Lin, built in 1570, by Maz- *P. Coniarini delle Figure in the style oftheLomhardi (1504-46). The elevation has much fancy and ele- gance. Then follow three Palaces of the Mocenigo family (16th cent.). In the middle one Lord Byron lived in 1818 He wrote some of his poems here, and received his friend Thomas Moore as his guest. Byron's writing-desk is still preserved. 822 lluute lo. — Vcitu-e: Palaces on Grand Canal. beloiigiiijr to the second class of Vene- tian nobility, and strangers by origin, were amongst the most illnstrious families of the republic. Vittorio Pisani, the great naval commander, (lied in laSO, just after his skill and valour had saved the republic from imminent peril. P. Barhan'go cleJla Terrazza ; the front and entrance are in the Kio di S. Polo. Here Titian painted his last picture at the age of 99. Canal of S. Polo. Ca CapeUo belongs to Sir Henry Layard, It was formerly covered on the outside with frescoes by P. Vero- nese and Zdottl, and was probably built early in the loth centy. Here is M small but choice Collection of Paint- ings, including a * Portrait of Sultan Mahomet, by Gent lie Belli ni, S.Ursula, 1)y Car pace (0, St. Jerome, by Savoldo, a Virgin and Child with SS. Dominic and Francis, by MorHto, and a small Adoration of the Magi, by Braman- *P. Griniani — early Kenaissance — by one of the LomhardL *P. Bernardo, Pointed style, early loth cent. *P. Deynaio, Byzantino-Lombard of the 12th cent., a very interesting ex- ample of a rare period and style. JUGHT. P. Garzejui. Pointed style, with modern alterations. '^Palazzo Thpolo, now Papadopoli, IGth cent., with a Doric, Ionic, and Composite front. f th St. St. '^P. Corner - Spinelli, early l(jth cent., in the style of the Lomhardi. P. Benzon (Mr. Malcolm). The Countess Benzon was the beautiful " Biondetta" of the Venetian song of the last century. About 1818 the salon of the countess was the ren- dezvous of the best Venetian anS^. Donato and probably rebuilt soon afterwards, as the style of archi- tecture is that of the 12th cent. The outside of the apse has a double row of round brick arches in the Lombard style, most effectively treated. Close to the W. end is a high square cam- panile, from the summit of which there is a splendid view. At the prin- cipal door, forming the base of the pilasters, are two Roman columns, with sculptures, probably of the time of the Antonines. The pavement resembles 330 Boiite75. — Tor cello: Duomo. that of St. Mark, and is extremely beautiful, abounding in curious early Christian emblems. An inscription in the centre, 6 yds. from the door, is dated 1140. The Church underwent a most elaborate and careful restora- tion at the expense of the Government in 1870. The columns are of M'hite and grey Tmezio marble, with Corin- thian capitals, probably brought from the ruins of Alti num. On the wall of the 1. aisle, near the entrance, is a curious wooden relief of San Donato, coloured and gilt, including diminu- tive portraits of the Podesta Memmo and his wife (1310), among the earliest known specimens of the Venetian school, as the inscription is one of the oldest in the Venetian dialect. In the Baptistery, opening out of the 1. aisle, are several fragments of Roman in- scriptions and reliefs, including the base of the tomb of Lucius Aulius Persia from Altinum. Over the Bap- tistery door, Lazzaro Sehastiani, Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt. and Donatus, who presents a kneeling Doge. On the altar to the 1., be- hind the pulpit, is a beautiful taber- nacle of rock crystal and gilded ebony. The vaulting over the altar, covered with mosaic on gold ground, contains a lengthened figure of the Virgin, in the Byzantine style, with a Greek monogram, not later than the 12th cent. Below it in the apse are da- maged l?th-cent. frescoes of the Evangelists. 4 m. beyond Murano are the Islands of Mazzorho and Burano. — The former has large kitchen gardens, which supply a large proportion of the vegetables and fruit consumed at Venice. At Mazzorbo, which the gondola passes on the rt., is a Gothic doorway of 13G8, and a good white marble relief in the lunette above it. Burano, which lies to the rt., is best visited on the return. About 2 m. beyond Mazzorbo is TORCELLO, an unhealthy island, with the population of a mere village. " Torcello was the parent island of the Venetian states ; the spot to which the unfortunate inhabitants of Altinum and Aquileia fled for safety when their homes were made desolate by the northern invaders. Torcello thus peopled became a town, and had its cathedral and its bishops, long before the existence of St Mark's." Others sought refuge here from the Arian Lombards ; and to escape their yoke, Paul, Bishop of Altino, trans- lated his see hither about the year 635, taking with him the relics and treasures of the cathedral which he abandoned. The succession of the Episcopal see continued until the re- volution. There was a podestk and senate of Torcello, in whom all the rights of the ancient community were vested, and who conferred titles of nobility on such as were willing to assist the treasury of the state by the payment of ten zecchini, some- what above five pounds sterling. The *Duoino (Sta. Maria), was re- built in the beginning of the 11th cent., by Orseolo, Bishop of Torcello, and son of the celebrated Doge Pietro Orseolo, but the outside has been modernised. The windows on the S. side of the choir have their *original shutters formed of slabs of stone work- ing on pivots. The pavement affords a fine example of ojms Alexandrinum. The capitals of the marble columns brought from some more ancient building are beautifully carved, and though Corinthian, a Byzantine in- fluence is evident. The nave and aisles, of 10 bays, end in apses. A striking peculiarity is the preservation of the original internal arrangement of the central apse, which ends in three semicircular steps of brick, once covered with white marble, forming seats for the clergy of different degrees, and conducting to the bishop's throne, which occupies the central spot. Three bays are given to the chancel, which is divided off" by ela- borate carved marble screens of By- zantine work. The central apse is covered with figures of the Apostles in mosaic ; above are the Virgin and Child — all of the 12th cent. On the W. wall is a restored sei'ies of *mosaie compart- ments of an earlier period, probably Route 75. — Torcello : Burano. 331 Byzantine. They are arranged in six rows, and represent the Crucifixion, between angels of the W. and E. Church ; Hades and the Resurrection ; Christ in glory surrounded by Angels ; the Last Judgment, where Kings and Emperors are introduced as usual, their costume Byzantine; Hell and Heaven, and the *Saviour receiving Children. The Virgin, in the lunette of the door, is of the same period. As works of art they are curious. Out- side the choir on the 1. is a pulpit on four slender marble columns, and a bracket amho, on a short octagonal column of stone, with some good By- zantine carved work. On the face of the Chancel arch is the Annunciation in mosaic, and in front of the screen the slab tomb of Abp. Mocenigo (1404). On the vault of the rt. apse are also some curious mosaics of the 11 th and 12th centuries, with Latin inscriptions. Below, SS. Gregory, Martin, Ambrose, and Augustine. The crypt, a mere passage behind the Choir, is probably of the 7th cent. ; it is semicircular, and surrounded by niches for bones or relics. The detached Campanile, to the E., may be ascended without diffi- culty. From the top a fine view is obtained of the Venetian Alps, the Adriatic, and the N. portion of the Lagoon. Mass is celebrated in the Cathedral only on the 27th Apr. (S. Liberale), 3rd July (S. Elidoro), and 1 5th Aug. (Assumption). "The *Church of Santa Fosca must have existed before the year 1011, and is said to have been the Baptistery of the adjoining cathedral. It contains the remains of Sta. Fosca, a virgin of noble birth, who, together with her nurse, Maura, had, during the perse- cution of Decius, earned the palm of martyrdom at Ravenna, her native city. The plan must have been im- ported from the East ; for Sta. Fosca is not a Latin basilica, but the square church of the Greeks, surmounted by the Oriental cupola. The capitals of the pillars of the porticoes by which it is surrounded, neither formed after Eoman models, nor admitting Lom- bard imagery, were also probably of Byzantine extraction. The interior is gracefully designed, consisting of a peristyle of insulated columns and piers, which together support the dome. The Martyrdom of Santa Fosca, over the high altar, is by G. Mow. The church underwent re- storation at different times — in 1247, and again at a later period ; but the original character of the building has been preserved." — G. Knight. Out- side is a polygonal apse, with two rows of arcades, the lower supported on columns. On three sides there is an open polygonal cloister communicat- ing with the Cathedral. In front of S. Fosca is a massive stone chair, called the Throne of AttUa, It is perhaps the seat in which the chief magistrates of Torcello were inaugurated. Adjacent to the N. is the small Palazzo del Comune (13th cent.), in which has been arranged a Museum of antiquities, found at Althmm and Torcello. On the ground floor, archi- tectural fragments ; upstairs, the Pala or Cathedral altar-front, of embossed silver, in twelve compartments, each containing the figure of a Saint. It is of Greek workmanship, but several of the panels are missing. Here also are bronzes, mosaics, pottery, vases, Ser- vice books, and smaller sculptures. About 6 m. from Torcello, reached through intricate canals, is the village of Altino, near one of the branches of the Sile where it enters the Lagoon ; it is now a poor place, and offers nothing to attract the traveller, al- though occupying the site of the once- flourishing Aliinum. iEmula Bajanis Altini littora villis. Martial, The island of Burano (5500) is in- habited chiefly by fishermen, who pre- serve some features of the ancient character of the Venetians. Many of the women are engaged in the pro- duction of thread-lace. The lace- school, in which a variety of ancient laces are most skilfully imitated, employs about 300 girls, and is well worth visiting. (Agent in Venice, 332 Route 76. — Boveredo to Vicenza. Jesurum.) It is chiefly maintained by the Countess Marcello, and has already done much to improve, morally and materially, the condition of the in- habitants of this very poor island. The Church of San Martino has in its Choir the Flight into Egypt, and Adoration of the Magi, in the style of Giov. Bellini ; in the Sacristy, St. Mark enthroned, with SS. Bernard, Nicholas, Laurence, and Vitus, by G. Santacroce (1541), restored. 2 m. S. is the Island of S. Francesco del Deserto, planted •with cypresses and pines. EOUTE 76. ROVEREDO TO VICENZA, BY SCHIO. — CARRIAGE - ROAD AND RAIL. — THE SETTE COMUNI. Miles. Stations. Routes. Arsiero 6 Kocchette 7 Piovene 10 Timonchio 12 Schio 3 Torre 18 Thiene 24 Dueville 32 Vicenza ... 75, 77 On leaving Roveredo (G80 ft.), described in Kte. 73, the road ascends the rt. bank of the Leno S.E., crosses the E. branch of that torrent, and turns nearly due S. into the Vail' Arsa, a pleasing valley, whose upper part is enclosed by lofty summits. The ascent is somewhat rough and steep to 12 m.Pieve di Vail' Arsa (2655 ft.), the principal village of the valley. S.W. rises the Cima di Posta (7545 ft.), N.E. Monte Pasuhio (7325 ft.), both abounding in plants of interest to the botanist. The road then passes on the rt. the bold peak of the Cengio Alto, and ascends to the Italian frontier at 15 m. Piano dalle Fugazze (4120 ft.), a low col. on the watershed between the Leno and Timonchio. The scenery here is bare, the head of the valley being enriched with lime- stone cliffs ; but it improves on the descent, the Val di Canale, a wild glen, opening to the 1., and the traveller soon reaches 20 m. Val dei Signori, whence a frequented mule-path leads S.W. in 2 hrs. to Recoaro (Rte. 80). Our road descends the Timonchio to 23 m. Torre, whence a Ely. runs E. to 26 m. Schio (665 ft.), a flourishing town of 11,000 inhab., many of whom are employed in the extensive wood- factories. The largest mill-owner is Sign. Rossi, who has established Schools, and founded Churches for the benefit of his workmen. Sign. Lodo- vico Pasini, an Italian Senator, has a valuable Geological Museum, well worth a visit from the scientific tra- veller. The Cathedral dates from 1512. The Gothic Church of S. Francesco (1436) has some good paintings. In the Church of the Ospedah is a Virgin and Child with SS. Lucia, Catharine, and others, by Fr. Verlas (1517). N.E, rises Monte Sumano (^4300 ft.), celebrated for its rare plants and insects. From Schio a Ely. runs N. to Arsiero, and S.E. to Vicenza. By means of the first an interesting excursion may be made to the Sette Comuni. A singular district, occupying a high table-land (3250 ft.) between the rivers Astico and Brenta, and carrying on an extensive trade in cattle, cheese, timber, and straw- plait. It is penetrated by but one road, which ascends from the side of the Astico, and by a few abrupt and rough paths. The whole mountain mass is of great geological interest (see Murchison in ' Geol. Journ.,* vol. V. pt. i. 1849). The chief peculiarity of the district, however, is derived from the character of the jiopulation. The inliabitants, about 40,000 in number, are Germans, divided into seven parishes or com- munities spread chiefly over the Eoute 77. — Vicenza to Treviso. 333 southern half of the plateau, and dis- tinguished in language and manners, as formerly in dress, from the Italians, by whom they are surrounded. They were supposed by some writers to be the descendants of the Cimbri, de- feated by Marius near Verona : while they were regarded by others as a remnant of the Alemanni, whom Clovis vanquished at Ziilpich, near Cologne, A.D. 496, and who, it is said, obtained an asylum in Italy from Theodoric. Their language is an old Alemannic-Swabian dialect, which has a resemblance to that of the Nibelun- genlied. The Alemannic-Swabian tribe occupied, in the middle ages, part of Western Tyrol, and the Vorarlberg. They may perhaps be the descendants of Alemannic-Swabian colonists, who settled here in the 1 1th or 12th cent, but it is far more probable that they are merely a remnant of their tribe, isolated by the encroachment of the Indian population and language, which, it is well known, has been, and still is, gradually gaining ground on the German language in Cisalpine Tyrol, and will probably, at no dis- tant period, entirely supersede it. The Sette Comuni themselves are becoming more and more Italianised, especially since they have discon- tinued to receive their clergj'men from Swabia. The people carry down a large quantity of timber in the rainy season by the Valstagna, to be floated down on the Brenta to Bassano. Until 1797 they formed a republic under the protection of Venice. The Rly., on leaving Schio, runs N.E. to Piovene and Rocchette, where it enters and crosses the Val d'Astico, and by a steep ascent along the mountain side, reaches its summit level. Thence, over an undulating country, broken by protruding rocks, it proceeds N.W. to Arsiero, whence a good road leads to (1.5 m.) Asiago. The geologist will, however, find it more to his advantage to abandon this route for the old one, which ascends the valley of the Astico from Arsiero to (1^ hr.) Pedescala. Thence by a steep ascent to the plateau, where a succession of oolitic strata full of fossils, covered by red limestone con- taining ammonites, will be observed. 1 hr. further is Rotzo, near the edge of the plateau; thence it is almost level to (2 hrs.) Boana ; then the deep ravine of the river Assa has to be crossed ; and 1 hr. further is Asiago. It is a long, straggling, and rather dirty village, with a large new church. A pathway, only passable in dry weather, leads in 4 hrs. from Asiago to Valstagna, on the Brenta ; 1 hr. over the open plain on a good road, passing Gallio, one of the Sette Comuni ; then 1 hr. down a stony gully, to Boso, where is a small church, picturesquely situated. At this point both stream and path drop suddenly into a grand and deep gorge, which descends in 2 hrs.toValstagna (510 ft.), whence a carriage-road leads down the valley to (11 m.) Bassano (Rte. 79). The Vicenza line, on leaving Schio, runs W., skirting a range of low hills, to 6 m. Thiene, a market town with some second-rate paintings in its Church, and frescoes attributed to Paolo Veronese in its Chateau. Here the line turns S. to 20 m. Vicenza Junct. (Rte. 75). ROUTE 77. ICEN ZA TO TEEVISO, BY CASTEL- FEANCO. Miles Stations. Routes. Vicenza . . 75, 76 11 Carmignano 15 CittadeUa . . . 79 23 Castelfranco . . 81 31 Istrana 34 Paese 38 Treviso . . . 78,82 The Rly. runs N.E. to Carmignano, beyond which it crosses the Brenta Thence to CittadeUa Junct. (9000), on the 334 Boute 77. — Castelfranco — Treviso. line between Padua and Bassano, a picturesque town, with embattled walls, encircled by a moat. In the Cathedral is a Last Supper by Jacopo Bassano. The Kly. now turns E. to Castelfranco Junct. (4000), an an- cient town surrounded by a moat, with walls and towers, and entered by a gateway bearing the Venetian lion. Attached to the city is a modern suburb. It was the birthplace of Giorgione, whose house (now that of the Rainate family), still forming part of the N. wall, has nothing of former days about it. In the Cathedral is a *Madonna and Child, with S. Liberale in armour, and St. Francis below. S. Liberale is said to be a portrait of Matteo Costanzo, a young condottiere. This fine and interesting picture is badly placed, and seen with difficulty. In the Sacristy are frescoes of Justice, Prudence, and Fame, by P. Veronese. They originally adorned the Villa So- ranza, a fine building, by Sammicheli, outside the town The Casa PeUiz- zari, in the Piazza, contains, on the first floor, painted friezes, said to be by Giorgione. [Rly. S. to Padua, N. to 3Ionte- helluna.'} Our line continues E. to Treviso .Junct. for Belluno (Rte. 78), Venice, Motta, and Udine (Rte. 82). TREVISO (28,000), on the Sile, a tributary of the Piave, is the ancient Travisium and capital of the province of the same name, and a bishop's see ; it is situated in a fertile territory, and possesses manufactures of cloth, paper, &c. The Duomo (closed at 3 o'clock) is of the 12th cent., restored by P. Lom- bardo in the 15th. Though unfinished, it is a handsome edifice, with five cupolas. — 2nd rt. Adoration of the Shepherds, by Paris Bordone, born here in 1500. On a pier nearly opposite, relief of the Visitation, with a rabbit below. End of rt. aisle, ♦Annunciation, by Titian, the Angel flying down with a peculiar rush. ♦Frescoes by Pordenone (1520), with most beautiful Angels on the vault. Virgin and Child with SS. Sebastian and Roch, by Gir. da Treviso (1487). In the Choir to the 1., *sarcophagus of Bp. Zanotti, magnificently carved by Pietro Lombardo (1483). At the high altar, busts of three local Saints ; above, statues of the Virgin, St. Peter, and S. Prosdocimo. To the rt. of the Choir, sculptured fragments by the Lombardi on the wall, and a good tomb of Bp. Lupo (1GG8). In the Sacristy, a Procession of the Tre- visau authorities, by Domenici, also born here, and three small subjects in one picture — the Annunciation, Na- tivity, and Resurrection, by P. Bar- done. Over the door of the sacristy, Assumption, by PennaccM. The chapel of the Sacrament was designed by Tullio Lomhardo, and sculptured with bronze reliefs of the Washing of Feet, and other subjects. 3rd 1., S. Euphemia enthroned, with SS. John Bapt., Catharine, and a donor, by Bissolo. In the Crypt, ancient columns, and tomb of Bp. Liberale, by the Lomhardi. In the Cloister, curious inscriptions and tombs. The Dominican Church of S. Nic- colo is a large Gothic building of red brick, with two tasteful doorways, a W. wheel, and long lancets in apse, transepts, and nave. The curiously designed wooden roof has been freely restored. There is a clerestory, but no triforium. — 1st chapel rt., SS. Anthony the Hermit and Sebastian, by Giacomo Paduano, with coloured wooden statue of S. Roch, in a frame by Antonio Lomhardo (1490), 2nd rt., handsome white marble altar, with Statues of Christ, the Virgin, and St. John Evan. Early frescoes on several piers. Giottesque frescoes well pre- served, in a Chapel to the rt. of the Choir. Behind the high altar, a *large painting of the Virgin and Child, with the Beato Niccolo Boccac- cino, SS. Nicholas, Dominic, Thomas Aquinas, Jerome, and Liberale. The first named, who founded the Church, became afterwards Pope Benedict XI. A draped Angel plays the guitar. This yery remarkable work is of Boute 78. — Treviso to Belluno. :}35 uucertain attribution, but is now generally assigned to Savoldo. To the 1., tomb of Senator Origo, by Pietro Lomharclo (1485), with a back- ground painted by Giov. Bellini. In the Chapter House, entered from • the Cloister on the rt., is a painted frieze representing forty distinguished Dominicans seated at their desks, and a very ancient fresco of the Cruci- iixion. S. Andrea.— 1st left, *Virgin and Child with SS. Chrysostom and Lucia, probably by Bissolo. S. Leonardo. — 1st rt.. Virgin and Child with two Saints ; end of rt. aisle, St. Erasmus enthroned, Avith SS. John Bapt. and Sebastian ; both of uncertain attribution. S. M. Maddalena.— Behind the high altar, Christ as a Gardener, with angels and donors ; above, Virgin and two Saints — by P. Veronese. In the Monte di Pieta there is a celebrated picture attributed to Gior- [fione, the Entombment of Christ, with three Angels ; but in the opinion of C. and C. it is a work of Pordenone. Signor Morelli assigns it rather to Dom. Caprioli. The Pinacoteca, open on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 till 2, contains pictures which haA^e been removed from various desecrated Churches, and a modern collection bequeathed by Signor Santi Giaco- melli. Among the best examples are an Adoration of the Shepherds, by Caprioli; the same subject by Bas- mno ; Virgin and Child with SS, John Bapt. and Jerome, by P. Bordone ; a Venetian Adoration of the Magi ; and a Virgin and Child by Giov. Bdlini. The Palazzo Pubhlico and Theatre are fine buildings. The Villa Man frini has a large garden. Treviso is delightfully intersected with running water, the bridges over which offer picturesque scenes. A pleasant walk may be taken along the line of the old walls N. of the town, enjoying fine views of the Venetian Alps. Following the Borgo Cavour to the Gate, and turning in 5 min. to the left at the end of the first straight stretch of road, the traveller may visit G m. Santa Cristina, in the Church of which village is a beautiful paint- ing by Lor. Lotto — the * Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter, Cristina, Jerome, and Liberale. The patron Saint holds xip her millstone most touchingly to the Infant Saviour, who looks down kindly upon her. ROUTE 78. TREVISO TO BELLUNO, BY MONTE- BELLUNA. Miles Stations. Koutes. Treviso . . 77, 82 13 Montebelluna . . 81 18 Cornuda 24 Alano 35 Feltre 43 S. Giustina 46 Sedico Bribano 54 Belluno This Rly., which offers the shortest route from Venice to the Dolomites, strikes N.W. across the plain to Montebelluna Junct., whence a line leads S.S.W. to Castelfranco (Rte. 77). Through a short tunnel the train then reaches Cornuda, at the foot of a singular range of low hills which run from E. to W., affording beautiful and extensive views. [Hence a good carriage-road leads W. to (2i m.) Maser, with a modern round church containing statues of Christ, John Baptist, and the Virgin and Child, by Vittoria. On the rt. is the Villa Giacomelli, built hy Palladio for Daniele Barbaro in 1580, and adorned with beautiful and interesting *frescoes and decora- tions by Paolo Veronese. In the smaller rooms, lady, servant, and page, Avith dog and parrot, and other figures on a balcony. — Holy Families, Boute 78. — Treviso to Belluno. 1:55 uncertain attribution, but is now generally assigned to Savoldo. To the 1., tomb of Senator Origo, by Pietro Lombardo (1485), with a back- ground painted by Giov. Bellini. In the Chapter House, entered from • the Cloister on the rt., is a painted frieze representing forty distinguished Dominicans seated at their desks, and a very ancient fresco of the Cruci- tixion. S. Andrea.— 1st left, *Virgiu and Child with SS. Chrysostom and Lucia, probably by Bissolo. S. Leonardo. — 1st rt., Virgin and Child with two Saints ; end of rt. aisle, St. Erasmus enthroned, with SS. John Bapt. and Sebastian ; both of uncertain attribution. S. M, Maddalena. — Behind the high altar, Christ as a Gardener, with angels and donors ; above, Virgin and two Saints — by P. Veronese. In the Monte di Pieta there is a celebrated picture attributed to Gior- gione, the Entombment of Christ, with three Angels ; but in the opinion of C. and C. it is a work of Porclenone. Signer Morelli assigns it rather to Dom. CapvioU. The Pinacoteca, open on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 till 2, contains pictures which have been removed from various desecrated Churches, and a modern collection bequeathed by Signor Santi Giaco- melli. Among the best examples are j an Adoration of the Shepherds, by I Caprioli ; the same subject by Bas- ' miio ; Virgin and Child with SS, John Bapt. and Jerome, by P. Bordone ; a Venetian Adoration of the Magi ; and a Virgin and Child by Giov. Bellini. ' The Palazzo Puhhlico and Theatre I are fine buildings. The Villa Man- ^' frini has a large garden. Treviso is delightfully intersected \' with running water, the bridges over : which offer picturesque scenes. A i pleasant walk may be taken along the line of the old walls N. of the town, enjoying fine views of the Venetian Alps. Following the Borgo Cavour to the Gate, and turning in 5 min. to the left at the end of the first straight stretch of road, the traveller may visit (J m. Santa Cristina, in the Church of Avhich village is a beautiful paint- ing by Lor. Lotto — the *Virgiu and Child, with SS. Peter, Cristina, Jerome, and Liberale. The patron Saint holds up her millstone most touchingly to the Infant Saviour, who looks down kindly upon her. ROUTE 78. TREVISO TO BELLUNO, BY MONTE BELLTJNA. Miles Stations. Routes. Treviso • . 77, 82 13 Montebelluna . . 81 18 Cornuda 24 Alano 35 Feltre 43 S. Giustina 46 Sedico Bribano 54 Belluno This Ely., which offers the shortest route from Venice to the Dolomites, strikes N.W. across the plain to Montebelluna Junct,, whence a line leads S.S.W. to Castelfranco (Kte. 77). Through a short tunnel the train then reaches Cornuda, at the foot of a singular range of low hills which run from E. to W,, affording beautiful and extensive views. [Hence a good carriage-road leads W. to (2^ m.) Maser, with a modern round church containing statues of Christ, John Baptist, and the Virgin and Child, by Vittoria. On the rt. is the Villa Giacomelli, built hy Palladio for Daniele Barbaro in 1580, and adorned with beautiful and interesting *frescoes and decora- tions by Paolo Veronese. In the smaller rooms, lady, servant, and page, Avith dog and parrot, and other figures ou a balcony. — Holy Families, 336 Boute 78. — Feltre—Belluno. with landscapes on the walls, and mythological scenes on the ceilings. Dwarf and dog. Lady with a fan (the Labours of Hercules are modern). In the central cruciform saloon are full-length figures, a page standing in a doorway, and a little girl in another. Opening out of it on either side is a bedroom entirely painted with landscapes and mythology by P. Veronese. — Medallion portraits of Alessandro Vittoria, Daniele Barharo, Andrea Palladio, and the painter. Outside the villa to the N. is a build- ing decorated with stucco figures by ViUoria. 4 m. further W. is Asolo (Rte. 79). The pedestrian will find a pleasant walk of I5 hr. back to Maser along the uneven ridge of the picturesque hills; or he may follovr a good road S.S.W. to (6 m.) Montebelluna, skirt- ing at some distance on the left the Bosco Montello, a forest which fur- nished timber for the Venetian navy during the time of the republic] Soon after leaving Cornuda the valley of the Piave becomes narrow and picturesque until reaching the plain of Feltre (5000), which lies near the confluence of the Stizzone and Col- meda torrents, in a rich agricultural district, at the foot of the last slopes of the Rhsetian Alps. Remains of its middle-age fortifications are seen in the upper town. On the highest point rose the Eocca, or Castle, of which a tall square tower remains, commanding a fine view over the upper valley of the Piave and Alps of Cadore. In the Piazza is the Town Hall, with a front attributed to Palladio, and a pillar on which once stood the Lion of St. Mark. In a street adjoining is the Monte di Pieta, the first of those useful establishments in Europe. A certain Fra Bernardino, a native of the town, was the origi- nator. Feltre gave a ducal title to Gen. Clarke, one of Napoleon's officers. Good road S.W.W. to (12 m.) Pri- molano. The Rly. on quitting Feltre runs through the wide valley of the Piave, the hills on the N. of which are very picturesque. At Sedico Brihano it crosses the Cordevole. BELLUNO (1365 ft.), a town of Ve- netian aspect (16,000), is situated at the junction of the Ardo with the Piave, whose gravelly bed is sometimes | m. broad. In summer there is just water enough to float down timber-rafts, with cargoes of turpentine, pitch, &c., from the mountains. The place is mentioned by Pliny under the name of Bellunum. In the Cathedral, built by Palladio, but seriously damaged by an earthquake in 1873, is a S. Lorenzo, by Jaeopo Bassano, a De- position by Pahmi Giovane, and a bust of Gregory XVI., a native of the place. The Palazzo della Ragione is a fair specimen of Venetian archi- tecture of the 15th cent. In front of S. Stefano is a Roman sarcophagus of the 4th cent, belonging to C. Hos- tilius Sertorianus, with reliefs of a chase ; it was found in the vicinity. The town is supplied with water by an aqueduct 6 m. long. The country is here composed of tertiary greensand and sandstone deeply indented by torrents and rivers. E. of the city the Ardo flows through a deep ravine into the Piave, so that Belluno is flanked on two sides by a precipitous hill. The greensand in itself forms a varied and pictur- esque country, -even independently of the loftier mountains which are seen beyond. 3 m. N.W., on the road towards Bolzano (a small mountain hamlet), is Colontola, a spot said to have been sketched by Titian, and introduced into one of his pictures. It lies below the road in the hollow of the Ardo, and is nothing bat a mill and a few houses ; but the combina- tion of scenery is extremely fine. Good carriage-road across the hills to (G m.) Ma^, where the tertiary sand is covered by the fall of the neigh- bouring calcareous mountains. 2 m. N.W., on the rt. bank of the river is the large suppressed Cistercian monastery of Vedana. The road to it passes through huge fragments oi the landslip. Boute 79. — Padua to Bassano. 337 A mile beyond Mas the road enters the * Canal d'Agordo, a magnificent gorge of the Cordevole, which it follows to 17 m. Agordo (2000 ft.), described in \he Handbook for Southern Germany. Another road leads N. from Belluno by (3 m.) Capo di Ponte, where the Piave is spanned by a fine wooden bridge of one arch, to (1 1 m.) Long- arone (1470 ft.). Here opens on the 1. the charming *Val Zoldo, through which a road leads to (10 m.) Forno di Zoldo (2855 ft.) chief village of the valley. Easy bridle paths thence to Alleglie or Caprile, in the heart of the Dolomite country (see Handbook for Southern Germany'). ROUTE 79. PADUA TO BASSANO, POSSAGNO, AND ASOLO.— RAIL AND CABRIAGE-EOAD. Miles. Stations. Routes. Padua . . . 75,95 7 Campodarsego 12 Camposampiero 81 17 ViUa del Conte 21 Cittadella ... 77 25 Rossauo 80 Bassano I On leaving Padua (Rte. 75), the Rly. crosses the Brenta, and runs N. to Camposampiero Junct., for Castel- franco and Montebelluna, Thence N.W. to Cittadella Junct. for Vicenza and Treviso. The direction is now N. again to BASSANO (14,000), a picturesque town, whose old walls (destroyed on the N. side), are draped with ivy. Bassano is pleasantly situated on the Brenta, here crossed by a covered wooden bridge, which replaces one blown up by the French. The painter Jacopo da Ponte was born here in 1510, and is N. Italy, better known as Bassano, after his native place. The Museum, in the Piazza San Francesco, contains a valuable library of 60,000 vols. ; a collection of auto- graphs, 15th to 19th cent. ; a Picture Gallery, in which is a Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter and Paul, in a fine landscape, by Francesco da Ponte (1509); a Crucifixion by Guariento; and several works by Dario da Trevigi, and by the Bassano family and their school. The interesting casts from the works of Canova, and a collection of his drawings and MSS., were the gift of his brother. Coins, Roman, Consular, and Imperial ; Venetian of the middle ages. Prints, 12,000, in- cluding playing-cards by Mantegna ; many rare engravings of Ugo da Carpi, Ant. da Trento, G. and Niccolo Vicentini, &c. Geological specimens and minerals, partly collected by the eminent geologist G. B. Brocchi, a native of Bassano. The Castle, at the N. extremity of the town, built by the tyrant Ezze- lino da Eomano, is now the Arch- bishop's palace. It is partly in ruins, but is imposing from its situation and many towers. Close to it is the Cathedral, which contains an Assumption, with portraits of Charles V., the Doge, and reigning Pope ; an Adoration of the Shepherds ; and the Martyrdom of St. Stephen, all by Jacopo Bassano. In the Church of S. Valentino is the *Baptism of S. Lucilla ; and in the Municipio, St. Martin dividing his cloak with the beggar ; both fine works by the same master. The Villa Rezzonica, 1§ m. distant, is celebrated for its views, extending as far as the Euganean hills, and over those of the Sette Comuni, Asolo, &c. It contains, besides other works of art, the Death of Socrates, by Canova. The grounds of the Villa Parolini^ outside the walls, are handsomely laid out, and contain a Pinetum and a good botanical garden, z 838 Boiife 79. — Possagno — Asolo, On the 8th Sept., 1796, Napoleon here surprised and annihilated the Austrian army under Wurmser, four days after the battle of Roveredo ; having made a forced march of 60 m. from Trent in two days. He subse- quently bestowed the title of Duke of Bassano on his minister Maret Carriage-road N.E. to (13 m.) Possagno, the birthplace of Antonio Cauova (1757-1822;. The road runs through a lovely country, passing by Eomauo, the birthplace of the tyrant of Padua, Ezzelino, and the village of Crespano. There is here a collection of pictures in the Casa Ajeta, of the early Venetian school, Tvorth visiting, and a Library, rich in musical works and in rare early printed books, be- queathed to Crespano by Prof. Pietro Canal. This district suffered much from the earthquake in 1846, the cen- tral or most violent action of which was about Romano. The fine *Bridge at Crespano (see below) was erected by a bequest from Canova. The road runs along the last declivities of the Viceutine Alps, and over the tertiary hills, which extend from their base to the great plain between the Brenta and the Piave. The village of Pos- sagno, -where the father of Canova lived as an obscure architect and builder, is prettily situated at the base of one of the most southern spurs of the Alps in a small valley separating it from the tertiary group of the Asolan hills. With the laudable in- tention of conferring a permanent benefit on the place of his birth, and of leaving a monument of his piety, Canova began during his lifetime a magnificent Church, in the form of an antique temple, combining the Doric peristyle of the Parthenon with the cupola of the Pantheon. The general plan was by Canova himself, but the carrying out of the work was entrusted to G/'ovanni Zardo of Crespano, by whom it was completed after the sculp- tor's death. The Church contains an altar-piece painted by the founder, but possessing little merit; a bronze relief of the Entombment, a very fine work, and the last which he modelled ; and the tomb of Canova, whose body was removed here from Venice, where he died on the 13th Oct., 1822, and de- posited in a sarcophagus made by him- self for the tomb of Marchese Berio at Naples, which had not been claimed by that family. He left by his will funds to complete the church, and to erect a fine *Bridge of a single arch (110 ft. span) over the torrent- bed of the Astego. It is principally of brick ; part of the spandrels, and the base and coping of the parapet, are of stone. The Palazzo, or House of Canova, is elegantly fitted up, and contains many interesting relics of the great sculptor. A very handsome wing has been added to it since his death, by his brother, to form a Museum, w^hich contains casts of most of his works, some of his unfinished sculptures, and a monu- ment to the daughter of a Spanish nobleman, the Marquis of Santa Cruz, which, being unpaid for, remained on his hands. 12 m. E. of Bassano, or 6 m. S.S.E. of Possagno, is Asolo (3500), a very picturesque mediaeval town at the foot of a hill surmounted by the ruins of a Castle, from which is gained an extensive panorama of the great plains of the Brenta and the Piave, with the encircling Alps, the distant insulated group of the Euganean hills, and near Venice, the extreme E. horizon, terminated by the blue line of the Adriatic. The town of Asolo is surrounded by a wall with medieval turrets, and several of its houses have painted fagades. In the Town-house is pre- served one of Canova's earliest pro- ductions, a relief, presented by him to the municipality in grateful remem- brance of their having conferred upon him his first title of nobility, when it had been indignantly refused to him by the authorities of Bassano, on the plea of his being a mere stone-cutter — tagl ia pietra. The principal Church contains an altar-piece by Lor. Lotlo, an early Bellinesque work of 1506. The Castle, a quadrangular building, Hoiite 80. — Vicenza to the Baths of Becoaro. 330 with a donjon tower, is an interesting monument of the 12th cent. It was the residence of the beautiful Catarina Cornaro, the last Queen of Cyprus, after the forced resignation of her kingdom to the Venetians in 1488. Here this lady of elegant taste and refined education passed her days in comparative obscurity, in the enjoy- ment of an empty title and a splendid income, and surrounded by a small intellectual court and several literary characters. Of these, one of the most celebrated was Pietro Bembo, the historian of Venice, afterwards car- dinal, whose philosophical dialogues on the nature of love, the " Asolani," have derived their name from this locality. The ex-queen died at Venice, while on a visit there. The geologist will find much to interest him in the country about Bassano, Possagno, and Asolo, which was for the first time illustrated by our distinguished countryman Sir R. Murchison. lo EOUTE 80. TICENZA TO THE BATHS OF EECOARO, BY VALDAGNO. — STEAM TRAMWAY AND CARRIAGE-ROAD. Koutes. Hiles Stations. Vicenza 4 Tavernelle 7 Montecchio 8 San Vitale 3 Arzignano 10 Ghisa 14 Cereda 16 Cornedo 20 Valdagno 'he Tramway leaves Vicenza by lEe Campo Marzio, near the Rly. Stat., and runs parallel with the Rly. as far as Tavernelle (Rte. 75). Thence to Montecchio (6000), with its two con- spicuous Castles, and the Villa Cordel- Ihxa, adorned with frescoes by Tiepolo. [From Montecchio a bridle-path follows the hills by Castel Gomberto, thence descending into the Val d'Agno : this route will reward the geologist by its fine secti(ms of volcanic tufas of the tertiary period, especially at Montecchio and Gomberto.] From San Vitale a branch line strikes off W. to Arzignano. Hence a road ascends the 1. bank of the torrent to (4 m.) Chiampo, from which village the pe- destrian may reach in an hour the curious interesting geological forma- tions at Vestena. The nearest approach by Rly. to this interesting district is from the E. side, but the entire region may perhaps be best explored from the S., ascending the Alpine torrent from the Stat, of San Bonifacio (Rte. 73). The rocks of the Val Cunella, which opens into that of the Alpone, about 6 m. N. of San Bonifacio, are composed almost wholly of beds of shells. Returning to the Alpone, and following it upwards to (3 m.) S. Gio- vanni llarione (whose Church contains a fine painting by Bart. Montagna), a road, still following the torrent, passes Monte del Diavolo, a mass of basaltic columns: here the pillars are mostly inclined at a considerable angle : others are curved, and others broken off, so as to form a horizontal pave- ment. Continuing onwards, at (4 m.) Vestena the basaltic prisms are very lofty and erect. In one part they form a cliff nearly 50 ft. in height, down which the torrent Alpone pours a beautiful cascade. The basaltic co- lumns are called StanghelUni, a name similar in its etymology to the He- brides Staffa, for Stanga means a pole or staff. About 3 m. farther is Monte Bolca, the largest and most singular deposit of fossil fishes yet discovered. The mountain, which is of a conical form, consists partly of basalt. The im- pressions of the fish are found in the schistose strata, which give out, when broken, a bituminous smell. A lignite of inferior quality is found here in the same tertiary marine strata under the basalt. "Winding round to the N., the Rly. now enters the Val d' Agno, rich and dotted with villages, at Z 2 340 Boute 80. — Comedo — Becoaro. Comedo, beyoud which the scenery becomes sub-alpine. Near the village of Valdagno (7500), on the 1. of the road, are coal-mines, which produce an im- perfect coal or anthracite of very inferior quality for ordinary purposes, but rich in oil. Valdagno is situated in the tertiary strata (870 ft.). Here the Tramway ends, and a hilly road ascends to San Quirico. The mica- slate, the fundamental rock of this part of the Alps, now appears, and after passing the bridge, a mile below Recoaro, several interesting specimens of basaltic dykes may be seen cutting through it on the side of the road leading to the baths. 7 m. Recoaro (.^600), beautifully situated at the head of a valley on the banks of the rapid Prekele (1500 ft.). Behind it, encircling its valley on the N.VV., rises a very grand circus of serrated Dolomitic peaks, which form a wall 6000 feet high between it and the valley of the Adige— the most remarkable of which are the Campo Grosso and Cima delle Tre Croci. To the W. is (1 hr.) 3Ionte Spitz (2.500 ft.), which commands a most extensive view of the whole range of the serrated pinnacles that shut in the valley. The waters of Recoaro (52° to 55° Fahr.) issue from the red sandstone and mica-slate strata, where these latter are cut through by a powerful basaltic dyke. The general composi- tion of the water is the same in all, containing carbonates of lime, iron, and magnesia, and sulphate of lime, with a great excess of carbonic acid, which renders them acidulous and particularly agreeable to the taste. They are considered to be very effi- cacious in all chronic disorders of the digestive organs and liver. In urinary complaints, in general debility, and in complaints of the nervous system, they are used internally. The Fontanel Hegia (or Lelia) is enclosed within grotto-like buildings, connected by a covered promenade : the flow of its waters has been much increased by judicious underground operations. The pump-room is sur- rounded by beautifully-arranged and picturesque grounds. The Fonte del Capitello, another favourite resort, is perched up near the summit of a hill which rises abruptly from the little village Piazzetta ; the terrace com- mands one of the most charming views imaginable. Further away lie the Fontana del Franco, the Oreo, the Emiliano, and the CivilUna, each of which is an easy walk from the village. Recoaro is much frequented from every part of N. Italy in June, July, and August. The pathways are numerous and well-shaded, and the walks in every direction charming. A large quantity of the mineral waters of Recoaro is exported in bottles ; it is to be met with every- where in Italy, and is sent also into the Levant, where it is much used by the Greeks. The Geology of the environs of Recoaro has been well illustrated by Signor Maraschiui,t and more recently by Sir Roderick Murchison, in his paper on the Structure of the Alps. In the upper part of the valley are calcareous beds (the Muschelkalk of German Geologists), and higher still the limestones of the oolitic series, which, being converted into Dolomites probably by subterranean igneous action, form the high peaks of the Cima delle Tre Croci, Campo Grosso, &c. A curious porphyritic rock, which pierces the limestone at Tongara, is probably connected with the conversion into Dolomite of the elevated ridge of Laste and of the Cima della Fratta on the S. side of the valley. An interesting excursion may be made in 3 hrs. to Schio by Rovegliana, across the hills that separate the valleys of the Prekele and Signori. But the geologist will find a good day's work between the two places. Ascending through chest- nut groves to the village of Roveg- liana, he will do well to visit a locality called La Commenda, near the Pass, t Saggio^sulle formazioni delle Roccie led Vicentino, 8vo. Padova, 1824, Boute 82. — Venice to Trieste. 341 where the muschelkalk is well charac- terised, and where he will find an abundance of its rare and character- istic fossils in the slaty limestone at the base of Monte Civillina and in the ravine descendine; to the Valle de' Signori. A fine view over the latter valley may be had by going to the top of the last-named hill ; and the geolo- gist will not fail to remark, on the opposite side of the Valle de' Signovi, high np on the mountain-side, a pro- jecting vein of crystalline marble (first observed by Arduini), from which he deduced some of his ingeni- ous views on the changes produced on compact rocks by ingenious agency, perhaps the earliest mention of the modern theory of geological metamor- phism. From the Pass of Civillina the path descends into the arid Veil elegit Zuccanti, where the basaltic rocks appear in large masses. On the S. of this valley the oolitic limestones are covered M'ith beds of red scaglia containing cretaceous fossils ; and these latter are seen to alternate with beds of volcanic or basaltic con- glomerate, the whole surmounted by tertiary rocks containing nummu- lites, &c. The road, before reaching Schio, passes through the village of Magre. The pointed Spitz cli ScJiio, at the bottom of which Magre is situated, is one mass of porphyritic rock. EOUTE 81. PADUA TO MONTEBELLUNA, BY CASTELFRANCO. Miles. S'ati ns. Routes. Padua .... 75 6 Campcdarsego 12 Camposampiero . 79 19 Castelfranco . . 77 80 MontebeUuna . . 78 By this line, travellers from Bologna or Florence may best reach Belluno and the Venetian Alps, avoiding the old circuit by Treviso. The Rly. runs due N. from Padua (Rte. 75), follow- ing Rte. 79 ^s far as Camposampiero Junct., where the Bassano line turns ofi" to the N.W. Our train continues N. to Castelfranco Junct., crossing the Rly. between Viceuza and Treviso, and thence bears N.E. across the plain to MontebeUuna Junct. (Rte. 78). EOUTE 82. VENICE TO TRIESTE, BY CONEGLIANO, PORDENONE, AND UDINE. Miles. Stations. Routes. Venice 6 Mestre . . 75, 83, 95 12 Mogliano Veneto 19 Treviso . . . 77,78 12 Ponte Piave 16 Oderzo 22 Motta di Livenza 28 Spresiano 32 Susegana 36 Conegliano 9 Vittorio 46 Sacile 54 Pordenone 64 Casarsa .... 83 71 Codroipo 78 Pasian Schiavonesco 85 Udine .... 85 18 Gemona Ospedaletto 43 Pontehba 90 Buttrio 94 S. Giovanni Manzano 98 Cormons 106 Gorizia 114 Sagrado 119 Monfalcone 126 Nabresina 133 Trieste On leaving Venice (Rte. 75), the Rly. crosses the lagoon to Mestre Junct. (Buffet), and turns N. from the Padua line to 12 m. Mogliano. Carriage - road thence between acacia hedges to (3 m. E.) Zerman, in the Church of which is a fine *painting by Palma Fecc/iio— Virgin and Child, with SS. 342 Route 82. — Treviso — Pordenone. Catharine of Siena, Peter, John Bapt., and Matthew. The large Cross held by St. Catharine is so cleverly painted that it stands out from the picture like a relief. 19 m. Treviso Junct., where the Belluno line branches off N.W. [Another branch strikes N.E.E. to (22 m.) Motta di Livenza. Here, in the *Galleria Scarpa, is a portrait of a Lady, by Titian; St. Andrew, and the Resurrection, by Gaudenzio Ferrari; a colossal Sebastian, by Mantegna ; round Virgin and Children, by So- doma ; Holy Family, by Savoldo ; and Portrait of a Knight and his lady, playing the guitar, by Bernardino Li- cinio. Outside the town is the Pil- grimage Church of S. M. dei Miracoli, reached by an avenue. 1st altar left, Adoration of the Magi, by Savoldo, probably his earliest painting. The Cathedral, built by Sansovino, has at the 1st altar left a painting by Pom- ponio AmaJteo.'} Leaving Treviso, the Ely. runs nearly due N. through the plain, passing by 28 m. Spresiano, 3 m. beyond which the Piave is crossed. 32 m. Susegana. In the Church is a beautiful * Virgin and Child on wood, damaged and neglected, with SS. John Bapt., Peter, Catharine, and John Evan., by Pordenone. About a mile distant, perched on a hill, is the miniature fortress town of S. Salvatore di Colalto, with battlemented brick walls, commanding a fine view over the plain. In the Church, the Court of which is entered by a drawbridge, are some half-ruined frescoes by Por- denone (Flight into Egypt the best), an early Virgin and Child, and a large picture by GiroJamo da Treviso. The Rly. follows the foot of the hills to 3G m. Conegliano (6000). The town is surmounted by a large Castle, that gives a fine appearance to it as it is approached, There are frescoes by Pordenone, now nearly obliterated, on the outside of several private houses. Here was born the celebrated Giov. Bait. Cima, by whom, however, there is only one painting in his native town— a *Virgin and Child with six Saints and two exquisite Boy angels, over the high altar at the Cathedral. At S. Fiore di Sopra (4 m. E.) is a group of Saints by him, over the altar. At Conegliano is a triumphal arch, in honour of the late Emp. Francis I. of Austria. A branch Rly. strikes N. to (9 m.) Vittorio, whence a good road leads to (10 m.) Belluno (Rte. 81). Vittorio, named in honour of the late King of Italy, comprises the two ad- jacent towns of Serravalle and Ceneda. In the Piazza is a Statue of the King, by Del Favaro. In the principal Church at Serra- valle is a large Virgin and Child, with SS. Andrew and Peter and two Angels, by Titian. The old Church of >S. Gio- vanni has ancient columns and quaint capitals, spoilt by modernisation, and a Virgin and Child, with four Saints, by Jacopo da Valenza (1502). At Ceneda are two paintings by the same master — Virgin and Child with SS. John Bapt. and Biagio, and another with SS. Sebastian and Anthony of Padua. 3rd altar rt., Virgin and Child, with SS. Roch and Sebastian, by Natal ino da Murano. In the Monte di Pieta is a fine painting by Previtali. (For the road hence into the Dolomite country, see Southern Germany, Rte. 309.) 46 m. Sacile (4600), on the Livenza, retains traces of its former importance, being surrounded by a good wall and ditch ; the palace of the Podesta is a considerable building. 54 m. Pordenone (7000), is supposed to occupy the site of the Portus Naonis of the Romans. It contains large paper-works on the Noncello torrent. Giovanni Antonio Sacchi, called Por- denone, was born here in 1483. In the Cathedral is a Holy Family with St. Christopher by him, and other paintings in the Church of San Marco. In the sacristy are preserved thirteen Boute 82. — Casarsa — Udine. 343 silver-gilt reliquaries, fine specimens of the 11th, 14th, and 16th cents. In the Gothic Municipio is a painting of *St. Sebastian, with a bishop and knight, and two angels listening for each other's note, by Pordenone. Opposite, a Holy Family with St. Catharine, by Faclovanino. At Torre, 3 m. N., is a *fine painting of the Virgin and Child with SS. Hilary, Paul, John Bapt., and Anthony, by Pordenone (1515). Between Por- denone and 64 m, Casarsa Junct., the Pvly. crosses several torrents descending from the Alps. [Rly. S. to Porto- gruaro.'] The Choir of the Parish Church at Casarsa is covered with frescoes of the History of the Cross, by Pordenone. [At Spilimbergo, 12 m. N., are fine paintings of his in the Choir, the best of which are a Con- version of St. Paul and Assumption of the Virgin.] 71 m. Codroipo (qicadrivium, Fr. carrefour), takes its name from its situation at the point of intersection of two lines of Roman road. From Codroipo a road runs N. to (12 m.) San Daniele, where, in the Church of S. Antonio, are wall paintings by Mar- tina da Udine, executed partly in 1498, partly in 1521. (Tramway to Udine, p. 344.) 5 m. further is Osopo, where is a Virgin enthroned with Saints, and a rich architectural back- ground, by the same painter (1494). Osopo is more conveniently reached from Gemona (see below). The Tagliamento is now crossed upon a wooden bridge, nearly two- thirds of a mile long, the bed of the river being here upwards of a mile wide, and a real " Sea of Stones," showing the changeable nature of the river's course. 78 m. Pasian Schiavonesco. A little further, on the rt., is Campo Formio, or more properly Campo Formido, where the treaty between General Bonaparte and the Emperor of Austria was signed in October 1797, by which Venice 'sfas so shamefully sacrificed by the French general to Austria — one of the deep- est blots in the political history of Napoleon. The mean house in which this disastrous treaty was concluded is still pointed out ; the leaden ink- stand, from which it was signed, is preserved, as a melancholy record of the Republic's fall, in the Museo Cor- rer at Venice. 85 m. UDINE Junct. (24,000), once the capital of Friuli, surrounded by pleasant gardens on the site of its old walls. In the centre is the Castle, now used as barracks, built in 1517 by Giov. Fontana, on the height chosen by Attila to view the burning of Aquileia. Udine presents many fea- tures of resemblance in its buildings to the mother city, to whose rule it was so long subjected: it has its grand square, its Palazzo PuhUico (1457)— a fine Gothic building on pointed arches — the two columns, the winged lion of St. Mark, and the campanile with two figures to strike the hours. The Palazzo Pubblico has been well restored since a fire in Feb. 1876, and the Municipal Offices are de- corated and furnished with taste in the style of the building. The original fresco of the Madonna by Pordenone, damaged by the fire, is now concealed by an excellent copy by Ghedina of Cortina. The Cathedral, modernised, except its *fine W. front and Gothic portal, contains on the 1. a painting by Martino da Udine (Pellegrino di San Daniele), St. Joseph and the In- fant Saviour, with the Boy John Bapt. as a pilgrim. Two of the Chapels have paintings by Tiepolo (Vault and Crucifixion). Behind the high altar is a sculptured sarcophagus, origin- ally intended for the bodies of SS. Ermanno and Fortunato, patrons of the diocese, containing the body of the Beato Bernardo da S. Ginesio, Patriarch of Aquileia, murdered at Einchivilla in 1350. The body is richly robed, and among its ornaments are some handsome rings and other jewellery. The sword which killed the Patriarch lies by his side. in the Sacristy is a good Virgin and 344 Boiite 82. — Udine — Aquileja, Child with S. Lucia, by I)om. da Tdlmezzo. The campanile dates from the 12th cent., and the building presents some beautiful details of pointed brickwork. The Baptistery, just across the road, has a fine Assumption on the ceiling by Tiepolo, with an altar-piece of the Madonna della Purita, and paintings in chiaroscuro on the walls, by G. D. Tiepolo, his son. In the Church of S. M. delle Grazie is a fine Virgin and Child, with SS. Gervasio, Protasio, Sebastian, and Roch, by Luca Monverde (1522) ; and in San Giorgio the Patron Saint slay- ing the dragon, with other subjects, by Florigerio of Conegliano (1543), the only known painting by this master, except two unimportant panels at Venice. The latter Church has a good belfry. In the Bishop's Palace are some interesting paintings on the walls and ceilings by Tiepolo, and some restored frescoes by Giovanni da Udine. The Museo Civico in the Palazzo Bertolini deserves a visit. It contains a fine *Coronation of the Virgin by Girolamo da Udine, a few pictures hj Palma Giovane, Tiepolo, and others, a good loth-cent, relief of the Virgin and Child, and a bust of Fra Paolo Sarpi. There is also a small but interesting Collection of articles in amber, ornaments in gold, jewels, Roman coins from Aquileia, and bronze implements found in the lower plain of Friuli. Steam Tramway N.W. to (16 m.) San Daniele, p. 343. [Branch Rly. E. to Cividale (Rte. 85). Rly. N. to Pontelha, passing Gemona, a walled town with a fine 12th cent. Church. 3 m. S.W. of it lies Osoj)o (see above). The remainder of the line is described in the Handbook for Soidhern Germamj (Rte. 306).] On leaving Udine the Rly. turns N. and ascends the Torre, which it crosses before reaching 90 m. Buttrio. 94 m. S. Giovanni Manzauo, Italian Custom-house. The Judrio torrent, which forms the frontier, is crossed 2 m. before reaching 98 m. Cormons, Austrian Custom- house. The line now runs at the base of the hills, gradually approaching the Isonzo, the ancient Sontius, the hypo- thetical boundary of Italy, which it crosses before reaching 106 m. Gorizia or Gorz (20,000), a modern manufacturing town on the Isonzo (see Handbook for South Germany, Rte. 106). The course of the Isonzo is followed to 114 m. Sagrado, where the line turns abruptly to the S. 119 m. Monfalcone. The Rly. now runs near the Adriatic through S. Giovanni on the Timavo, the ancient Timavus, ^ m. from the coast, the most northern point of the Adriatic. Shortly before arriving at Trieste, the chateau of Miramar, formerly the re- sidence of the unfortunate Archduke Maximilian, is seen near the sea on the rt. [Aquileja, 12 m. S.W.W. of Mon- falcone (5000), is reached by a ferry across the Isonzo. This was in ancient times one of the most im- portant provincial cities of Rome, and the chief bulwark of Italy towards the N.E. Augustus often resided in it, and its population was then esti- mated at 100,000. It was taken by Attila in 452, and reduced to ashes by that ferocious barbarian. Its climate is pestilential at certain seasons, from the marshes around. The *Duomo (1019-42) retains the E. apse and low ciypt of that date. The pointed arches of the nave, &c., resting on classic columns and capitals, seem to have been rebuilt in the 14th cent. It was the metropolitan Church of the Patriarch, whose stone throne is still- preserved in the apse. Roman remains in the neighbourhood are abundant; a small Museum contains inscriptions, coins, and a fragment of a Statue Boute 84. — Verona to CMoggia. 345 of Venus. (See Soutliern Germany, Rte. 106.)] 126 m. Nabresina Junct. Here the Vienna line falls in. Buffet. 133 m. Trieste Terminus (Handhooh for S. Germany, Rte. 104). ROUTE 83. VENICE TO CASARSA, BY PORTO- GRUARO. Miles. Stations. Routes. Venice .... 75 6 Mestre . . 75, 82, 95 16 S. Michele del Quarto 21 Meolo 32 Ceggia 43 Portogruaro . . 85 48 Sesto Cordovado 52 S. Vito 56 Gasarsa .... 82 As far as Mestre this line coincides with Rte. 82. It then turns N.E., passing numerous unimportant Sta- tions, to Portogruaro Junct., whence a Rly. runs to TJdine. Here our line turns N. to San Vito, where are some good paintings in the principal Church — a large altar-piece by Fr. Vecellio (1524), and frescoes of New Testa- ment subjects in the Choir by Pom- ponio Amalteo (1535), The Rly. pro- ceeds to Casarsa, which has some wall- paintings in its Cathedral by Porde- none, well worth notice. From hence a Rly. is in construction to Gemona, passing through Spilimbergo and San Daniele (Rte. 82). ROUTE 84. :ro> J A TO CHIOGGIA, BY ROVIGO Vliles Stations. Routes. Verona (P. v.). 53.75 2 Verona (P. N.) 7 Dossobuono . . .103 13 Vigasio 29 Cerea .... 57 34 Legnago ... 57 52 Lendinara 63 Rovigo ... 95 79 Adria 87 Loreo 94 Cavanellad'Adige 97 Brondolo 99 Chioggia As far as Dossobuono Junct. this Rly. runs S.W. towards Mantua. It then turns S. to Vigasio, from which Stat, a direct line is in construc- tion to Bologna. Hence the direction is nearly due E. to Cerea Junct., on the line between Mantua and Este, which we follow as far as 34 m. Legnago Junct. (Rte. 57). Hence, passing in quick succession a number of unimportant Stations, we reach 63 m. Rovigo Junct. (Rte. 95), cross the main line between Venice and Bo- logna, and continue E. to 79 m. Adria, a small town on the site of a very ancient city, which gave its name to the Adriatic Sea. Here is an interesting Museum of Terra-cotta vases and other antiquities. Beyond 87 m. Loreo, the Rly. turns N. to 99 m. Chioggia (21,000), a town on an island at the S. extremity of the Laguna. It consists of a wide street, extending the whole length of the island, with smaller ones branching off at rt. angles. On the E. side are canals, streets, and alleys filled with boats, masts, nets, and the usual im- plements of ^ fishing town, A wide 346 Route 85. — Portogruaro to Cividale, arm of the Lagoon separates the town from the bank or sandy island which here divides the Lagoon from the open sea. On this ish\nd is the small town of Sotto Marina (4000), between whose inhab. and those of Chioggia there exist great rivalry and jealousy. The Cathedral, rebuilt after a fire in 1632, has a handsome pulpit, and a 14th cent, tower. The Gothic Gra- najo, or corn-store, resting on 64 pil- lars (1322), now serves as a fish and vegetable market. At the end of the main street a long low bridge of nu- merous small arches connects the tOM'n with the mainland. The harbour is much frequented, being convenient for the small coasting vessels of the Adriatic. The population is engaged in the coasting trade, in fishing, and in piloting vessels into the harbour of Venice. Chioggia was founded, like the rest of the islands in this lagune, by the inhabitants who fled from the neigh- bouring mainland on the invasion of the barbarians. It was conquered by Venice, and from 1214 to 1797a Vene- tian noble always filled the office of podesta. The Genoese got possession of the town after a severe struggle in 1379, but the Venetian nobles and merchants made desperate sacrifices to fit out a fleet, with which they re- conquered the place a few months after. The island has a reputation for the beauty of its women, who are said to have furnished the models of the fine figures of the Venetian painters. The people of Chioggia are very proud of their descent : they are remarkable for their attention to dress. The Man- tilla and Zendale may still be seen there, and the regular old Italian stoiy- teller heard in the street. Goldoni's account of the inhab. in his day drolly hints their decline in prosperity : " In questo paese si divide tutta la popu- lazione in due classi : ricchi, e poveri . Quelli che portano una parrucca ed un mantello, sono i ricchi ; quelli che non hanno che un berretto, ed un cap- potto, sono i poveri, e bene spesso questi ultimi hanno quattro volte piu danaro degli altri." At the mouth of the river Brenta is the village of Brondolo (Brentalum), united by a bridge with Chioggia. For the Steamboat Journey to Venice, see lite. 86. ROUTE 85. COGI {UARO TO CIVIDALE, BY UD ^liles Stations. Routes Portogruaro . . 83 9 latisana 20 S. Giorgio 29 S. Maria la Longa 38 Udine .... 82 48 Cividale The Rly. runs E. to Latisana, where it crosses the Tagliamento. Several smaller streams are crossed before reaching S. Giorgio, whence the direc- tion is due N. as far as Udine (Rte. 82), the .Junction of the lines for Trieste, Treviso, and Pontebba, Here the train turns E. again, and soon reaches Cividale, the Roman Forum Julii, and ancient seat of the Lombard dukes. Within the Renaissance Ca- thedral is a curious octagonal Baptis- tery, much restored, but dating from the 8th cent. The Cathedral archives are of the highest interest. The ^Tempietto Lombardo, or Chapel of S. Geltrudis, attached to a Nunnery, is a remarkable building of various dates ; and the little Church of >S'. M. dei Bat- tuti contains a good painting by Mar- tino da Udine (1529). For full de- scription, see Handbook for Southern Germany (Rte. 106). ROUTE 86. VENICE TO EAVENNA, BY CHIOGGIA AND COMACCHIO. Steamer from Venice to Chioggia, several times daily, in 2 hrs. ; Rly. thence to (12 m.) Loreo or (20 m.) Adria (Rte. 84) ; canal - boat and carriage onward.^ This is a difficult route at the best ; the road is in places Boute 86. — Venice to Bavenna. 347 very indifferent, and the terrible inun- dations of 1881-2 have not contri- buted to improve it. Provisions ought to be taken. The journey may be divided into three days, stopping at Chioggia, and Mesola or Ariano. Should the traveller leave the Ely. at Loreo, a boat will take him to (6 m.) Taglio di Po, and a carriage thence to (6 m.) Mesola. Should he de- scend at Adria, where better arrange- ments can be made for the journey, he will drive to (6 m.) Corbola, cross- ing the Po, and row thence to (6 m.) Ariano and (G m.) Mesola. The steamer leaves Venice from the Riva degli Schiavoni, calling at Malamocco and Pelestrina. The ex- cursion as far as Chioggia and back is easily made in a day, and affords a good opportunity of seeing the famous Murazzi, or great sea-wall of Venice. The time occupied in rowing the distance in a 6-oared boat is about 6 hours ; it would, of course, be much shorter to sail, with a fair wind. In returning from Chioggia to Venice, in the afternoon, the sunset over the Lagoon, with the Euganean hills and the Veronese mountains in the distance through the golden haze, is very fine. The steamer proceeds down the Orfano Canal, leaving on the 1. the Lunatic Asylum, and the Armenian convent of S, Lazzaro, and on the rt. La Grazia: then entering the canal of S. Spirito, it passes on the 1. S. Clemente, where there is an Insti- tution for female lunatics, and S. Spirito, a powder magazine, and on the rt. the quarantine ground of the Lazzaretto di Poveglia. It then runs nearer to the long island of the Lido, which forms a part of the natural breakwater extending nearly 80 m., from the mouth of the Piave to Brondolo, and formed by the deposit brought down by the rivers. The first stopping place is (6 m.) Malamocco, a -village of 800 inhab. employed in gardening and fishing. Metamaucum, the old capital of the district, and seat of a bishopric as far back as the 7th cent, was situated on another island near this, b^t has b^en submerged. Further on is Forte Alheroni, which stands at the extremity of the island, and guards the Malamocco entrance on the N., with Forte S. Pietro on the S. side at the N. extremity of Pelestrina. Extensive moles, formed with large blocks of stone brought from Istria, are seen on each side of the Malamocco entrance : these have been made of late years in order to increase the scour at the ebbing of the tide, by contracting the width of the channel, and thereby produce a greater depth in the pass ; this has succeeded so well that vessels drawing 30 ft. water can now enter the Lagunes through it. The principal dyke of Diga, completed in 1847, is 1 J m. in length, and runs eastward from Forte Albe- roni into the sea. The steamer coasts along the island of Pelestrina, G m. in length, passing a succession of small towns, but stopping only at (12 m.) Pelestrina (7000). A little N. of this spot begins the line of the Murazzi, protecting the long sandy spits that separate the Lagune from the Adriatic. These great sea-walls consist of an embank- ment of huge blocks of Istrian stone, rising 15 ft. above high water, present- ing an inclined face towards the sea, in the form of stairs. Their entire length, including those on the island of Sotto Marina, where they can be seen, is 3j m. ; they were commenced in 1741, and completed in 1782; the slope towards the sea is as 1 to 4 ; the width of this pyramidal structure at its base, on the level of the sea, is 45 ft. At the S. end of the Isola di Peles- trina are forts, protecting the entrance to the Porto di Chioggia from the sea. Chioggia or Chiozza is described in Rte. 84. In the following sketch of the journey onward, it is assumed that the traveller does not avail him- self of the Rly., but trusts to the boats and carriages of the country. Leav- ing the town, we proceed to (2 m.) Brondolo, on the Brenta, and thence by the Canale di Valle, which con- nects the latter river and th? Adige, 348 Route 86. — Pomposa— ComaccTiio. to (5 m.) Cavanella dell' Adige (Stat.) ascend the Adige W. for 2 m., and then turn S. along the Canale di Loreo to (10 m.) Loreo (Stat.), where the Rly. crosses the canal. Thence to (13 m.) Cavanella di Po, on the 1. bank of the Po Grande, or della Maestra. The other branch farther S. is the Po di Goro, and between the point of bifurcation at the Punta di Sta. Maria and the sea these two arms of the river enclose the IsoJa cVAriano, frequently subject to the destructive inundations of both its branches. On the northern shore of this island is (16 m.) Taglio del Po, where the traveller should leave his boat and take a carriage to (22 m.) Mesola (2000), on the rt. bank of the Po di Goro. Here a country carriage, quite good enough for the roads, may be hired for the next day's journey. Mesola appears to have been consi- dered important as a frontier town, since it is recorded that it has been twice purchased of the House of Austria by the Church — by Pius VI., for a million of scudi, and by Leo Xn., in 1822, for 467,000. The expense of keeping up the em- bankments of the canals and rivers in this part of Italy, which are ad- mirably constructed and managed, is said to have made the acquisi- tion an onerous one to the Papal Government, The interesting Church, erected in 1071, was once attached to a rich Benedictine abbey. The pavement of o^ms Alexandrinum is worth attention. The spaces over the columns and the apse, formerly covered with mosaics, were subse- quently painted by a certain Chegus, who has left his name on them. In the Refectory, now the property of Count Guiccioli, are three good sub- jects — the best, our Lord giving His benediction, between a group of saints — probably by Pietro da Rimini. Leaving Mesola, the road proceeds along the flat sandy tract to 30 m. Pomposa, formerly an island, but now nearly 10 miles from the sea, a most interesting place, well worth a visit. The Benedictine Abbey, one of the earliest in Europe, was founded in the 6th century. In the Refectory is a Last Supper of the School of Giotto. Guido d'Arezzo, inventor of the musical scale, was a monk in this abbey. The *Church has a W. front ornamented with marbles, and a nave and aisles with 18 arches, supported on marble columns with rich capitals. The frescoes in the choir deserve attention. In the Alexandrine pave- ment is the stone of dedication, bear- ing date 7th March, 1026. The campanile (165 ft.), built in 1063 by Azzo, has 9 stories, surmounted by a conical roof Before the sea receded so far it was a landmark for marinei's. A mile beyond Pomposa, the Volano is crossed by ferry, and the road passes over a sandy district to the 42 m. Porto di Magnavacca. 3 m. W. lies Comacchio (8300). The Lagunes of Comacchio, similar to those of Venice in their mode of formation, occupy an area of 106 sq. m., between the Po di Volano on the N. and the Po Primaro or Reno on the S., separated from the sea by a long sandy spit which has only one communication with it by the cut of Magnavacca. These Lagunes have from time immemorial been noted for their fisheries, consisting chiefly of eels and grey mullet: by means of a most ingenious system, the rivers which encircle them at a certain period of the year are allowed to flow in, and thus to introduce the young fry which ascend these streams from the sea ; the fish are allowed to increase in size, and all exit is prevented by nets and sluices. The fishery employs nearly 8000 persons, and produces about 800,000 francs (32,000/.) annu- ally. The fish is cured on the spot, and exported to every part of Italy. The contrivances for enticing the young fish, and for retaining the old returning to the sea, which are very ingenious, have been described by Tasso and Ariosto. The town of Comacchio was for- merly fortified, and occupied, in vir- tue of a stipulation in the Treaty ol Vienna, by an Austrian force ; but tfe^ Boute 86. — Magnavacca — Mesola. 349 defencesi were destroyed in 1848. It stands on an elongated island, having the Convent of the Cappuccini at one end, and the remains of the Citadel at the other. The depth of the Laguna varies from 3 to 6 ft. About 7 m. S. of Magnavacca the road crosses the Beno at II Passo, the supposed Spinetieum Ostium of the ancients, leaving on the 1. the almost abandoned town of Primaro and its small port, formerly defended by the Torre Gregoriana. 1 2 m. further the Lamone is crossed, and we soon enter the northern ex- tremity of the Ptiieta, many of whose finest trees were almost destroyed by the severe winter of 1880. The road traverses this tempest-stricken forest, and near the tomb of Theodoric, by the Porta Serrata, we enter 60 m. Eavenna (Rte. 97). In the reverse direction this journey has been thus described : " On leaving Ravenna, the road passes by the tomb of Theodoric, and soon after enters the Pineta. The deep silence of the forest is unbroken by the noise of the carriage, which passes over the green turf, scarcely marked by any track; and the tra- veller soon feels that without the aid of a guide, or the instinct of the North American, his path would be lost. " 18 m. Magnavacca. We changed horses and carriage at this place, by which we neither improved our vehicle nor the quality of the horses. The conveyance to which we were now transferred was somewhat ruder in construction than a tax-cart. We were given to understand that next day we should obtain a better car- riage at " 38 m. Mesola, which we reached at sunset. Mesola consists of a large building, the residence of the gover- nor, apparently constructed so as to be turned into a fort if necessary, and a few straggling houses, all lying below the level of the river, which is here magnificently embanked. During this day's journey we crossed five streams by means of ferry-boats ; but the steepness of their banks, and the bad arrangements of the boats, con- vinced us that no English carriage could be safely transported without improved means. We started from Mesola the next morning at daybreak, and drove along the S. bank of the Po di Goro, or Po Piccolo, to the point opposite Vicolo, where we found numerous boatmen, and soon made an arrangement for our conveyance to Chioggia. We were now dragged in a canal-boat, by two men, up the Po to (40 m.) Sta. Maria in Ponto, without landing at Ariano. Before arriving at Sta. Maria we left the boat in order to avoid the tiresome navigation round the western point of the island. We reached Sta. Maria in this way, after a walk of a mile, while the boat did not arrive for 3 hours. The effects of the floods on this island of Ariano were still visible in the broken banks, and in the vast masses of shingle thrown up on various parts of the surface. The inhabitants were unable to leave their houses for 15 days during the great flood of November, 1839. On the arrival of our boat we proceeded on our voyage, passing through numerous canals, and seldom encountering a lock, in consequence of the level cha- racter of the country. We crossed the Po della Maestra, the Adige, and the Brenta, during the day ; but the only towns we passed were (46 m.) Cavanella di Po and (49 m.) Loreo. We arrived at Chioggia at 8 in the evening, and our route altogether, in spite of the drawbacks mentioned, was far from being uninteresting ; the swamps, canals, and rivers were so unlike anything we had seen before, that we were amused by the novelty of the scene ; the time passed away pleasantly under the awning of the boat, or in walking along the banks of the canals, which the slow movement of our boat pei'mitted ; we were struck by the simple manners of the peasan- try, and still more by the extreme beauty of the women ; we were not annoyed by beggars ; we enjoyed a freedom unknown to travellers in a 350 Boute 87. — Trent to Bassano. diligence ; and at the close of our journey Vfe almost regretted that it •was the only one, and the last of the kind." — Dr. Fraser. ROUTE 87. TRENT TO BASSANO, BY THE VAL SUGANA. — CAEEIAGE-EOAD. 60 m.— Dil. daily in 11 hrs. The scenery is far superior to that between Trent and Verona. The Val Sugana is highly picturesque, the Gorge of the Cistnone very striking, and the spurs of the hills beyond Bas- sano offer charming views over the great Venetian plain. The improved road, soon after leaving Trent (685 ft.), enters the gorge of the Fersina, and is cut through the rock by an easy gradual ascent to 7 m. Pergine (1580 ft.)— a pretty town of 4470 inhab., with a Castle of the Bishops of Trent on a rock of slate, on the 1. bank of the Fersina. It stands in the midst of charming scenery near the watershed between the Adige and the Brenta. Beyond it the river Brenta takes its rise in the two small picturesque lakes of Caldonazzo and Levico, on the rt. of the road. The upper part of the valley through which it flows, and our road descends, is called Val Sugana, and it presents features of extreme interest. The post-road between Per- gine and Levico, being carried through a defile flanked by heights which con- ceal all view, will convey but a very limited notion of the beauties which sui;round the cradle of the Brenta. [From Pergine a road strikes S. by Sta. Catarina, along the W, margin of the Lake of Caldonazzo, through the extensive chestnut-woods of Castegne, which overshadow it, and through Calcerancia, to the village of Caldon- azzo at the lower end of the lake. Here it turns N.E., and falls into the post-road at Levico.] The main road descends to skirt the margin of the little Lago di^ Levico, separated from the Lake of Caldonazzo by a low ridge, along which ran formerly the Roman road between Trent and Treviso. 14 m, Levico (3670), with mineral springs, recommended for rheumatism, liver complaints, and consumptive dis- orders. A large Bath-house affords accommodation for 300 persons. The country in the immediate vicinity is bleak and tree-less, but the excursions around are numerous and beautiful. S.W. a good road leads to (3 m.) Caldonazzo, and follows the Val Centa S. to (8 m.) Lavarone (3375 ft.), beautifully situated near the little Lake of the same name. Footpath thence S.W.W. through park-like scenery in 2 hrs. to Folgaria, and (2 hrs.) Serrada. 3 hrs. W. of Lava- rone is Vezzena, reached by way of the little Lake of Laghetto, and the Inn at Monterovere (4265 ft.). From Vezzena the high road may be re- gained by the T al di Sella, ^here is an Establishment of Baths. At Levico the high road turns N.E.E. to 18 m. Masi, a pleasantly situated village, where the fine Dolomite peaks of the Cima Dodici (7660 ft.) begin to show themselves to the S. 2 m. further, to the 1. of the road, rises Roncegno (1760 ft.) with a much- frequented establishment of springs and mud-baths. 21 m. Borgo di Val Sugana (1475 ft.), the principal place in the valley, has 3900 inhab., most of whom are occu- pied and enriched by the culture of silk. It is somewhat compressed within the neighbouring heights, and occupies the site of Burgum Ausugii, a military station on the great road made by the Romans to connect the shores of the Adriatic with the colony of Tridentum. Among the castles with which this part of the valley abounds, that of Borgo, which be- longed to the Counts of Telvana, is the most conspicuous. From Borgo the traveller may proceed through Boute 8 7. — Grigno — Sotagna. 361 Castelnuovo into the Val Tesino. The road quits the Bassano route at Castel- nuovo, turns N.E., passes by Strigno and Bieno, crosses a low col, and descends to Pieve di Tesino. 31 m. Grigno, on the boundary of Tyrol, and in the province of Venice. Near this the Vale of Tesino opens out from the N. It is inhabited by a race who follow the profession of pedlers and printsellers, and wander all over the world with rude pictures of saints, &c., for sale. This trade began in the middle of the 1 7th cent. ; and though it has now much fallen off", the inhabitants of this obscure valley still maintain agents in some of the principal cities of Europe and America. The family of Artaria come from hence. The children of the valley never fail to return with the earnings of years of toil, to spend them and end their days by the banks of the Tesino. The Brenta, which has hitherto flowed E., now turns S. through a rocky gorge, in the midst of which is 3.5 m. Tezze, with the Austrian Custom House. 40 m. Primolano. Napoleon here surprised and defeated the |Austrian vanguard in the memorable campaign of 1796. Primolano, as well as Borgo and Levico, were also the scenes of engagements between General Me- dici's division of the regular Italian army and the Austrians in July, 1866. There is an excellent carriage-road to (12 m.) Feltre. (Excursion to Primiero and Agordo, see Rte. 365, Handbook for S. Germany.) [From Primolano, or Borgo, or, better still, from Pedescala or Val- stagna, an excursion may be made S. of our road to the Sette Comuni (Rte. 76).] Between Primolano and Cismone the Brenta traverses the magnificent *defile of Covelo (Kofel), and the road is carried through it at a considerable height above the river, with precipices above and below. Where the rocks are highest and wildest a singular for- tress-cave once existed in the face of the cliff, 100 ft. above the road. It was capable of containing a garrison of 500 men, and its guns completely commanded the passage. Maximilian took it from the Venetians in 1509, and it was thenceforth held by Aus- tria, though within the territory of Venice. It completely commanded the passage valley : it had no visible approach from above or below, and was supplied with water from a spring within the cave. Its powder maga- zine was cut out of the rock. At Cismone, where the torrent Cis- mone enters the Brenta, Napoleon halted the night before he routed the Austrians at Bassano in 1796, and was glad to content himself with half a private soldier's ration of bread for supper. 47 m. Valstagna, on the W. bank of the Brenta, is famous for its manufac- ture of broad-brimmed hats. It is placed at the opening of a deep ravine which penetrates into the Sette Comuni, and offers the easiest access from the valley of the Brenta, by which the principal traffic is carried on with Bassano. A stone bridge over the Brenta leads to the hamlet of Oliero, with a large paper manufac- tory. No traveller should pass this picturesque spot without seeing the magnificent natural cavern in the Dolomitic limestone, which here forms a vertical wall towards the valley of the Brenta, and from which issues a considerable stream or river of most limpid water, evidently one of the principal subterranean drains of the superjacent table-land of the Sette Comuni. It may be explored by torchlight in an hour. The stalactites are fine, and the whole scene very striking. [There is a road to Bassano by the rt. bank of the Brenta.] The valley opens at 52 m. Solagna, beyond which a view is soon obtained of the broad and fertile plain, in the midst of which lies 60 m. Bassano (Rte. 79). ( 352 ) PART Y. EMILIA. LIST OF ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 95. Venice to Bologna, by Padua, Rovigo, and Ferrara . 96. Ferrara to Suzzara . . . 97. Ferrara to Rimini, by Ra- venna 98. Portomaggiore to Bologna . Bologna to Ravenna, by Castel Bolognese and Lugo Lugo to Lavezzola . Milan to Bologna, by Lodi, Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, and Modena .... Bologna to Rimini, by Imola, Faenza, and Forli . Verona to Modena, by Mantua and Suzzara . 104. Suzzara to Parma, by Guas- talla 4:6: 99. 100. 101. 102. 103. 352 401 401 428 428 429 429 457 460 ROUTE PAGE 105. Reggio to Guastalla, by Bagnolo 467 106. Sassuolo to Mirandola, by Modena and Cavezzo . . 468 107. Bologna to Florence, by Pistoia 468 108. Bologna to Florence, by Pietramala and the Pass of La Futa 470 109. Faenza to Florence, by Mar- radi and Borgo San Lorenzo 472 110. Florence to Forli, by Dico- mano and the Pass of San Benedetto 473 111. Bologna to San Felice sul Panaro 474 112. Forli to Ravenna . . . 474 113. Parma to Spezia, by Pontre- moli 474 ROUTES. ROUTE 95. VENICE TO BOLOGNA, BY PADUA, KOVIGO, AND FERKARA. Wilea stations. Koutes Venice . . . . 75 Mestre . . 75, 82, 83 23 Padua . . 75, 79 29 Abano 31 Montegrotto 34 Battaglia 38 Monselice . . . 57 46 Stanghella 51 Rovigo . . . 84 66 Arqua Miles. Stations. Routes. 60 Polesella 67 S. Maria Maddalena 68 Ponte-lago-scuro 71 Ferrara ... 96, 97 78 Poggio Renatico 81 Galliera 85 S. Pietro in Casale 88 S. Giorgio di Piano 96 CorticeUa 100 Bologna 98, 101, 102, 107, 111 Venice and the Rly. as far as 23 m. Padua Junct. are described in Rte. 75. B,oute 95. — Ahano. 353 On leaving Padua the Kly. makes a wide curve to the S., leaving on the rt. the lines to Bassano and Vicenza, and affording on the left a good view of the domes of Sta. Giustina, the minarets of S. Antonio, the double- topped tower of the Observatory, and the lofty roof of the Palazzo della Eagione. Crossing the Canal, and bisecting the plain, the Rly. ap- proaches the northern extremity of the Euganean hills, near which is situated 29 m. Abano, much frequented by Italians during the bathing season (June, July, and August), with a well - appointed Stabilimento. Its baths have retained their celebrity from the time of the Romans, and under the name of Fons Aponus, the place is repeatedly mentioned by classical authors ; medals and other remains of antiquity have been found here in abundance : the place is also remarkable as the birth-place of Livy, of Valerius Flaccus, and of Pietro d' Abano, in whom the Paduans take almost equal pride. " From a sort of natural tumulus, about 15 ft. high, and above 100 in circumference, burst two or three copious streams of hot water, varying from 77° to 185° Fahr. : they contain a minute portion of muriates of soda, lime, and magnesia, and sulphate of lime ; the gaseous emanations with which they are accompanied consist- ing of azote and carbonic acid. A part serves to fill the baths and pits for heating the muds ; a part loses itself in cuts and wet ditches, amidst the meadows ; and a part turns the wheel of a mill, which whirls amidst volumes of smoke. " The meadows, which are of sur- prising fertility, extend about 2 m. to an insulated hill, entirely covered with trees, brushwood, and vines ; from the foot of this issue smoking streams, and a little farther is another single hill, from whose roots issue hot mineral waters. The structure of the hills, and their character and position, show evidently that they are N. Italy. outliers of the volcanic group of the Euganeans. " There are other springs of the same nature, and having all of them more or less medicinal virtues ; which procured apparently for this place the ancient name of Aponon, derived from a, privative, and ttoj/os, pain. "It is celebrated for its Binds, which are taken out of its hot basins, and applied either generally or par- tially, as the case of the patient may demand. These are thrown by after having been used, and at the conclu- sion of the season, returned to the hot fountain, where they are left till the ensuing spring, that they may im- pregnate themselves anew with the mineral virtues which these are sup- posed to contain. The muds are, on being taken out, intensely hot, and must be kneaded and stirred some time before they can be borne. When applied — an operation which very much resembles taking a cast — they retain their heat without much sen- sible diminution for three-quarters of an hour, having the effect of a slight rubefacient on the affected part, and producing a profuse perspiration from the whole body. Heat is considered as so essentially seconding their ope- rations, that this watering-place, or rather mudding- place, is usually nearly deserted by the end of August ; though there are some who continue to wallow on through the whole of September. " The baths, though sometimes con- sidered as a remedy in themselves, are most generally held to be mere auxiliaries to the muds, and usually but serve as a prologue and interlude to the dirty performance which forms the subject of the preceding paragraph, they being supposed to open the pores and dispose the skin to greater sus- ceptibility." — Hose's Italy. The thermal springs in this district are very numerous. Besides those at Abano, there are others at Ceneda, Monte Gottardo, SanV Elena, San Pie- tro Montagnone, Monte Grotto^ San Bartolommeo, Monte Ortojie, and San Daniels in Monte. 2 A 854 Route 95. — Montegrotto — Excursion to Arqua. The Rly. runs at the foot of well- wooded and extremely picturesque hills to 3 ni. Montegrotto, where there are several hot, jijaseous emanations, and a bath-liouse. Beyond a tunnel through a spur of the Euganeans, is seen on the 1. the Castle of Cattajo, bequeathed by Marchese Obizzo (a Venetian no])leman), to the Duke of Modena. The old part of the castle, built in 1550, contains some frescoes by Gicui Battista Zdotti, a friend of Paolo Veronese. The Archeological Collection is full of interest, and there are specimens of old armour and war- like weapons, early Christian inscrip- tions, Etruscan, Greek, Egyptian, and Roman sculptm-es, and other curious antiques and relics. 34 m. Battaglia, situated in an amphitheatre of hills, at some distance from the village. Here are some thermal springs, much frequented in July and August. The StahUimento di Sta. Elena lies in the beautiful park of the Wimpffen chateau, which is conspicuous on a terraced knoll close to the line. The treatment pur- sued is similar to that at Abauo ; but the place is quietei\ Opposite, on the top of a hill, stands the picturesque Castle of Monticelli. [About 2 m. E. is Carrara di S. Stefano, once celebrated for its Bene- dictine Monastery founded in 1027. Several of the Carrara family were buried here. Marsilio (1330) has a marble monument, with reliefs of the Virgin, SS. Antony and Benedict. On a pilaster by the S, wall is an inscrip- tion in Lombard characters relative to the death of Ubertino Carrara in 1365, in which the family is desig- nated by the name of Papafava, lords of Carrara and Padua. The bell- tower ])ears the date of 1293. The fine old moiiasteiy was suppressed in 1777, and sold by the VcLetiau Go- vernment to the Erizzo family.] 38 m, Monselice Junct. (8000), in a depression between two peaks, is sur- mounted by a liocco, or Castle of the 13th cent., even more feudal in aspect than Este. It has long ranges of curtain walls with stepped battlements, studded with bold square crenellated towers. They ascend and descend the hill-sides, intermingled with rich vegetation. IMonselice was a place of importance in the middle ages: in the 10th cent, it became a feudal pos- session of the House of Este, even before they had acquired the town whose name they subsequently adopted (11G5). The hill of the I^occo, from which the town derives its name — mountain of silex — is formed of trachyte, known by the local designa- tion of masegna, which is extensively quarried for building purposes. The Palace on the hill belongs to the Duodo family. The Church, with its seven detached chapels, in imitation of the seven basilicas of Rome, was de- signed by Scamozzi. In the Villa Cromer is preserved one of Canova^s earliest works (1778), a statue of ^sculapius. All the country is ex- ceedingly rich, but intersected by muddy canals. Rly. W. to Este (Rte. 57). EXCURSION TO ARQUA. [3 m. S.W. is Arqua del Monte (Car- riage there and back, 10 fr,), reached by a picturesque road at the foot of the hills. The return may be varied by joining the Rly. at Este, or viee versa. Arqua is beautifully situated amongst the Euganean hills ; here Petrarch lived and died (1304-74). The house shown as his habitation in the upper part of the town has wall- paintings of subjects taken from his poems (IGthcent.), but is much altered (Custode, 50 c). Here is Petrarch's chair ; and Petrarch's pretended cat, or miccia, as he used to call her (and as all cats are still called in Italy), is here stuffed in a small niche. The tomh of the Laureate, of the same form as Antenor's at Padua, stands on four stumpy pillars in the church- yard. It is of red Verona marble, and was raised by Francesco di Brossano, Boute 9 5 . — StangJi ella — Bovigo — Arqua . 355 husband of Francesca, one of the ille- gitimate children of the poet. The inscription is by Petrarch himself. Above is a bronze bust, placed there in 1677. Byron has sketched this sepulchre in a well-known passage of ' Child Harold,'— There is a tomb in Arqua, &c. The Pozzo di Fetrarca, a walled cistern, is said to have been built at his expense for the use of the town. Near Arqua is a spring of strongly sulphureous water. Very good figs and white wine are grown here. 46 m. Stanghella, where we cross the Cauale Gorzone, which flows into the sea near Chioggia. 2 m. further we reach the Adige, in crossing which there is a good vicAv over the plain of Rovigo, the river being here at a higher level than that town. The cir- cular fort on the left was erected by the Austrians. The country is flat and marshy, but luxuriant in vegeta- tion. 51 m. ROVIGO Junct. (11,000), an active and cheerful city, the seat of the Bishop of Aclria. The Duomo is a plain building, with some good co- lumns of Serravezza and local conchy- lious marbles. In the Piazza Mag- giore is a Column on which once stood the Lion of St. Mark and a marble pedestal for the gonfalone of the Re- public. The Chapel of the Madonna, a circular edifice at the extremity of the city, contains a host of votive ofi'erings and paintings, the latter principally by inferior artists of the Venetian school. At the Town Hall is the *GaUeria Municipale, which con- tains several paintings of interest, mostly Venetian. Baclile (Antonio) : Adoration of the Magi, small and crowded. Bellini (Giov.) : Virgin and Child, in a green tunic. — Marriage of St. Ca- tharine, who wears wreaths of pearl and leaves. Bellini (Gentile) : Virgin and Child (1483). Cima (attributed): Virgin and Child, with two rabbits. Dosso Dossi : SS. Lucia and Agata. — SS. Benedict and Bartholomew- large full-length figures, finely co- loured. Garofalo : Virgin and Child, with SS. Jerome, Andrew, Paul, Benedict, and Peter. Giorgione : *Portrait. Girolamo da Santa Croce : Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Fran- cis, Joseph, and Sebastian (small and minute). Holbein : Portrait of Ferdinand L Licinio (Bernardino) : SS. Marga- ret, Lucia, and Catharine. The flock of sheep in the background has pro- bably misled the compiler of the Cata- logue, who calls the sitting figure St. Agnes. Marco Belli: Circumcision, copied from Giov. Bellini. Palma VeccJiio : * Virgin and Child, with SS. Helen and Jerome. — Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt. and Roch. Panetti : Pi eta. Pedrini : Ecce Homo. ^ Polidoro : Marriage of St. Catha- rine. Schiavone : Apollo and Daphne. Spagna : Virgin and Cliild (small). Titian: SS. Nicholas, Paul, Fran- cis, and Cecilia.— Virgin and Child — good copy (original at Vienna). In the passage are three oval tables of handsome lumachella marble. The Library, which contains 70,000 vols., has a painting of S. Lucia, by Quiricio da Murano (1460), and a few por- traits. In the W. part of the town are two lOth-cent. square towers, both out of the perpendicular. [Rly. W. to Legnago, E. to Chioggia.'\ The main line traverses a marshy tract to 56 m. Arqua, beyond which it crosses the Canale Bianco. 2 A 2 356 Route 95. — Ferrara : History. fiO m. Polesella. The town extends for a considerable distance along the N. bank of the Po, which here forms the boundary between Venetia and Eoiiiagna. (37 m. S. M. Maddalena, on the N. bank of the Po, which is crossed by a long iron bridge to G8 m. Ponte Lago Scuro, a place of considerable commercial activity, as the principal port on the lower Po. 71 m. FERRARA (29,000), the capi- tal of a province, in a fertile bnt un- healthy plain, at a level of only 6^ ft. above the sea, and at a short distance from the Po, whose bed is on a level with the tops of the houses. This city, the Forum Alieni of Tacitus, and once the residence of a court celebrated throughout Europe, still retains many traces of its ancient grandeur. There are broad and ample streets, but grass grows on the pavement ; the Palaces are falling into decay ; and the walls, 7 m. in circuit, which once contained nearly 100,000 inhab, now enclose vast areas of kit- chen garden and deserted sites. The population is collected together in the centre of the city, and thinly scattered over the remaining portion. The JcAvs are an opulent body, and number about 3000. In spite of their deserted appearance, the broad and handsome streets are imposing ; the Corso di Po, by which the city is entered from the Ely. Stat, with its prolongation the Corso di Porta Mare, is 1 m. ;in length. The modern city is supposed to have been founded in the 5th cent., when the invasion of the Huns and the destruction of Aquileia drove the inhabitants into the marshes for security. Its Avails were built in the 6th cent, by the exarchs of Bavenna, and it was raised to the rank of a city in 661, when the bishopric of Yigovenza was transferred to it ; its archbishopric was founded bv Clement Xll. in 1735. Ikit the chief interest of Ferrara arises from its connection with the House of Este. As far back as i the 10th cent, we find this family con- nected with Ferrara ; first as supreme magistrates, and afterwards as hereditary princes (1240), acknowledging generally the suzerainty of the Pope, though some- times asserting their independence. Fer- rara remained under their sway until the extinction of the legitimate branch in 1597, in the person of Alfonso II. : and in tlie folloAving year it was annexed to the States of the Church by Clement VIII., on tlie pretext that Cesare d'Este, the representative of the family by a collateral line, Avas disqualified by ille- gitimacy. During the 16th cent, the Court of Ferrara was unsurpassed by any in Europe for its refinement and in- telligence ; its University was renowned throughout Christendom, and so many English students w^ere collected within its walls as to form a distinct nation in that learned body. But there are greater names associated with the history of Ferrara at this period than those of its princely sovereigns. "Melancholy as the city looks now, every lover of Italian poetry," saj's Forsyth, " must view with affection the retreat of an Ariosto, a Tasso, a Guarini. Such is the ascent of wealth over genius, that one or two princes could create an Athens in the midst of this Boeotia. The little courts of Ferrara and Urbino seemed to emulate those of Alexandria and Pergamos, contending for pre-eminence only in literature and elegance." In addition to the ancient bT'lliancy of its court, Ferrara offers no inconsider- able interest to the English traveller for the impulse which it gave to the Re- formation, and for the as3^1um given to Calvin and to Marot by Duchess Eenee, the high-minded daughter of Louis XII., and wife of Ercole II. She afforded protection to munerous friends of the Ecformed Faith who fled from other parts of Italy, and even from countries beyond the Alps. That accom- plished princess had become acquainted with the doctrines of the Reformers previous to her departure from France in 1627, by means of some of those learned persons who frequented the I court of Margaret, Queen of Navarre, i " She extended her protection and hos- pitality to many of her own countrymen, whom the violence of persecution had driven out of France. INIad. de Soubise, i the governess of the duchess, resided at : the court of Ferrara, along with her son, i iwcgodiSUior^oJ REFERENCES TO PLAN. 3 Duomo. ■4? I S.Andrea. 2 j S.Bencdetto. 2 Ca^Tpuccini. 3 I Corpus Doiriim. B I 3 I S. Cristaforo. C I 2 ' S.Domemco. C i 3 i S-GaetanoCRatim) !l6 CIS C|3 Dj3 Ci2 CIS Bis C|3 C 2 S.Francesco. 11 Gesu. S.Matna in vado, S.Paolo. Castello. 117 118 B Il9 20 •J i Hosnjlal andftdsonof 1i^8C I n aAdPiil Roverella. \ 2 Ifcuse of Ariosto. Ci3| Post Office. C!3i Theatre. J21iC!3l Seiniiiavio. PinacotecaaDdAteneo.| j j ! HOTELS, l^rrversity. i a|C|3! Stella d'Oro. AccademiaAriostea. ! b|C|3lEnropa. ZaruJUm: JohjvJRLrrcLVjAlhemarU Street. Boute 95. — Ferrara : Cathedral. 357 Jean de Parthenay, sieur de Soubise, afterwards a principal leader of the Pro- testant party in France. In 15oi the French poet, Clement Marot, fled from his native country, in consequence of persecution ; and, after residing for a short time at the court of the Queen of Navarre, in Beam, came to Ferrara. He was recommended by Madame de Soubise to the duchess, who made him her secre- tary. About the same time the reformer John Calvin visited Ferrara, where he spent some months under the assumed name of Charles Heppeville. He re- ceived the most distinguished attention from the duchess, who was contirmed in the Protestant faith by his instructions." Among the other learned personages assembled here at this time was Fulvio Peregrine Morata, who had been tutor to the two younger brothers of the duke, and who became still more celebrated as the father of Olympia Morata, the most enlightened female of her age ; who first ''acquired during her residence in the Ducal Palace that knowledge of the Gospel which supported her mind under the privations and hardships whlzh she afterwards had to endure." Under the sway of the house of Este, Ferrara was one of the great commercial cities of Italy. Its trade began to de- cline in the 16th cent., and, although it has been much reduced even since that period, the city still carries on a con- siderable traffic in agricultural produce. A great deal of business was formerly done here in hemp, of which large quan- tities found its way into the English dockyards, the Ferrara growth being- considered the best for cordage. Ferrara had its School of Pain- ters, but none of them rose to the first rank, and their leaders were in- fluenced in turn by the Schools of Padua, Bologna, and Venice. Ex- amples of all the chief painters will be seen in the Churches and Pinacoteca, unhappily in many cases over-restored. Cosimo Tuva, the Mantegna of Fer- rara (UlS-liSl).— Lorenzo Costa (fl. U74). —Dos-so Dossi (U74-1559).-B. Benvenuto, surnamed Ortolano (1467- 1525). — Benvenuto Tisio, called Ga- rofalo (14«1 - 1559), who worked for some years under Raphael. Lodo- vico Mazzolini, pupil of Lor. Costa (1530). — Girolamo da Carpi, pupil of Garofalo (1501-1556). — i?asf«i- nino C'a weak imitator of Michel Angelo," C/c.) (153-2-1585).— Giuseppe Mazzuoli, called Bastaruolo (1589). — ScarselUno (1551-1621).— 6'arZo Bo- nom, pupil of Bastaruolo, and an imitator of the Caracci (1632). Principal Sights in topog^xiphical order. [The traveller from Padua to Ravenna by the mid-day train must wait Ij hr. at Ferrara, and may easily drive to the Castle and Cathedral — the two most important objects.] *Castle ; *Catliedral ; Seminary ; S. Paolo ; *Library ; S. M. in Vado ; *Palazzo Schifauoia ; S. Francesco ; Prison of Tasso ; *Picture Gallery; S. Cristoforo ; House of Ariosto ; S. Benedetto ; S. M. della Rosa. CHURCHES. The *Catliedral was consecrated in 1136 j its highly interesting Gothic exterior, with few exceptions, belongs to that period, but the interior has been spoiled by modern renovations. The * beautiful W. front is divided by buttresses capped with turrets into three equal portions, each subdivided into a triplet, with two exquisite arcades one above the other, a small wheel window, and a third arcade beneath the eaves of the low-pitched gable. There is no finer work of the kind in Italy. The porch is composed of a semicir- cular arch supported by columns, which rest upon curious figures on red marble lions ; the side doors have also semicircular arches. The rude reliefs with which this part is covered are in a good state of preservation ; they represent the Last Judgment, various events in the Life of Christ, the Seven Mortal Sins, and nume- rous sacred, profane, and grotesque emblems. Over the S. door is a colossal marble bust of Donna Ferrara, sister of the founder, and on the same side a statue of Alberto d'Este, in the pilgrim's dress, in which he returned 358 Boute 95. — Ferrara: Churches. from Rome in 1390, laden with bulls and indulgences. Over the central door is a relief of St. George and the Dragon, and higher up the long-vene- rated miraculous statue of the Virgin, attributed to Kiccolo da Pisa. The double arcade is continued round the flanks of the edifice. At the^ S.E. extremity is the huge but unfinished Campanile, in four tiers of high round arches, built of Verona marble, in the time of Duke Ercole II. The interior is in the form of a Greek cross. The semicircular choir was first added in 1499, by Kosette, a native architect, known as one of the earliest restorers of Italian archi- tecture ; the portion beyond the tran- sept dates from 1637, and the re- mainder from 1712 to 173.5. In the 3rd chapel rt. is Garofalo's pic- ture of the Virgin and Child in the clouds, with two female saints below. In the 4th chapel rt. are works in distemper by Cosimo Tnra, Martyr- doms of saints, boldly painted in a large style. In the transept are excellent coloured sculptures of Christ and the Apostles— half-lengths in niches, by Alfonso Lomhardo; and bronze statues of the Crucifixion, the Virgin, St. John, and St. George, by Niccolb BaroncelU, much admired by Dona- tello. On the vault of the choir is the *Last Judgment, by Bastianino, one of the favourite pupils and the best copyist of Michel Angelo. Lanzi says that it occupied 3 years in painting. Like Dante and Michel Angelo, Bas- tianino availed himself of the oppor- tunity to put his friends among the elect and his enemies among the damned ; the picture consequently contains numerous portraits of both. Among the latter is pointed out the young woman who refused his hand, while ihe one whom he married is placed among the blessed, and is seen maliciously gazing at her early rival. It is much to be regretted that recent attempts to restore this fine work have injured the effect of the original colouring. The Annunciation on the rt. and the St. George on the I., are by Cosimo Tura, the painter of the 23 choir-books presented by Bishop Bar- tolommeo della Rovere. Over the 6th altar on the 1. is a *Coronation of the Virgin with ten Saints and an Inno- cent, by Francia, a beautiful work. In the 3rd chapel on the 1., Ma- donna with SS. Paul, Giustina, Ca- tharine, and another Saint, by Garofalo (1524). To the 1. and rt. of ' the entrance door are large frescoes of SS. Peter and Paul, by Garofalo. In a room near the Sacristy, Annunciation by Garofalo, Virgin and Child by his master, Panetti, and a Statue by Jacopo della Querela. On the wall of the choir is the sepulchral memorial of Pope Urban III., who died of grief here in 1187, on hearing of the reverses of the second crusade, previous to the fall of Jerusalem. S. of the cathedral is the Palazzo della Eagione, with an old arcade in the Pointed style. San Benedetto (3, B. 2). The most remarkable paintings are Christ on the Cross, with St. John and other saints, by Dosso Dossi; the Martyrdom of St. Catharine, by Scarsellino, one of his finest works ; a Circumcision, in the rt. transept, by Luca Longlii of Ravenna; and an Assumption of the Virgin, in the 1., by Scarsellino. The monument of Ariosto, removed to the library, stood in the chapel on the rt. of the choir, where is a representation of it in painting. The Convent has been turned into Barracks. On the ceiling of an OflBce, formerly the vestibule of the refectory, is a painting of Paradise, with a choir of angels, by pupils of Dosso Dossi. S. Cristoforo (6, B. 3), whose fine architecture is attributed to Sansovino, is decorated with sculptures by that celebrated artist. The twelve chapels are remarkable for as many paintings of the Mysteries by Niccolb EosselU. The adjoining Campo Santo occupies the gardens and cloisters of the Cer- tosa. The cloisters are covered with sepulchral monuments, and the cells Boute 95. — Ferrara : Churclies, 359 of the monks converted into mortuary chapels. Among the tombs are those of Borso d'Este, first Duke of Fer- rara, founder of the monastery ; Duke Venanziano Varano and his wife, by Binaldini ; Lilio Giraldi, the mytho- logist, by Lomhardi, removed from the cathedral ; the wife of Count Leopoldo Cicognara ; and Bernar- dino Barbulejo, or Barbojo, said to have been the preceptor of Ariosto. Here also may be seen the bust of Cicognara, Canovas last work; the j tomb of Count Mosti, by Tadolini; that of Count Costabile by Tenerani, and the monument of Garofalo, con- taining his ashes, brought from Sta. Maria in Vado. The remains of the painters Ortolano, Bononi, and Bas- tianino, were also brought here from that Church. Forming the entrance to one of the chapels is a beautful doorway hySansovino; another chapel, intended to contain monuments of illustrious Ferrarese, contains good statues of Monti and Yarano by Fer- rari, a native artist of merit. Corpus Domini (C, D. 3) has some tombs of the d'Este family. San Domenico (7, C. 2) is remark- able for the statues on its front by Andrea Ferreri. Here is the tomb of Caliognini, precursor of Copernicus. There are also some pictures by Scar- sellino, and iu the 4th chapel 1. is a bust of St. Hyacinth, by Antonio Lom- hardo. S. Francesco (9, C. 3) was founded by Duke Ercole I. (1494). In the chapel on the 1. of the choir are the Marriage of the Virgin and the Flight out of Egypt, by ScarseUino ; and an interesting work by Ortolano in the 4th chapel 1. In the rt. transept are two pictures by Bononi, and a good painting by Scarsellino, the Yirgin and Child with S. Theresa. In the same arm of the transept is the mo- nument of Marchese di Villa of Fer- rara, celebrated for his defence of Candia against the Turks in 1676; and that of Giambattista Pigna, his- torian of the family, and secretary of Duke Alfonso. In the first chapel on the 1. is a marble altar-piece in high relief, attributed to the Lomhardi. Not the least remarkable curiosity of this Church is the famous eclio, said to reverberate 1 6 times. II Gesu (10, C. 3).— In the choir is the mausoleum of the Duchess Barbara of Austria, wife of Alfonso II., elo- quently eulogized by Tasso. S. Giorgio (E. 4) is celebrated as the scene of the General Council held at Ferrara by Pope Eugenius IV., in 1438, for the purpose of bringing about a union between the Greek and Latin Churches, and at which the Emperor John Palffiologus was present. Even at that period the atmosphere of Ferrara was tainted by malaria, for it is recorded that the council was re- moved to Florence in consequence of the unhealthy climate of this city. The Chapel on the rt. of the choir is painted with the Miracles of St. Benedict. On the 1. is the magnificent *tomb of Lorenzo Roverella, physician to Julius II., and afterwards Bp. of Ferrara, by Ambrogio da Milaiu) (1475). It consists of a recumbent effigy, on a sarcophagus within an arched recess, all in white marble, relieved by inlaid bits of porphyry. Sculptures of the Virgin and Child, with three bishops, St. Jerome, St. John Bapt., and numerous angels, adorn the tomb, and the whole is sur- mounted by figures of St. George and the dragon. The high altar is richly inlaid with jasper and alabaster, and there are some good intarsia stalls. Sta. Maria in Vado (D. 3, 4), one of the oldest churches in the city, but entirely altered by modern restoration, is celebrated for a miracle resembling that of Bolseua. The Church tradi- tion relates that, the faith of the prior having failed at the moment of the consecration on Easter Sunday, 1171, the Host poured forth blood, and converted him from his disbelief. Here are some fine paintings by Carlo 360 Route 95. — Ferrara : Churches. Bonone. In a chapel near the choir is a painting of Justice and Power, by Cothjnola, containing the celebrated Latin enigma of Alessandro Guarini, ■which has not yet been explained. S. Maurelio (4, B. 2) has a Virgin and Child with saints, and another with Capuchin nuns, both by ScarseUi/to ; SS. Christopher, Antony the Abbot, Dominic, and Francis, in the sacristy, by Carlo Bonone. S. M. della Rosa, in the Via Giar- dini (C. 2) contains a *Pieta with terra-cotta figures, by Guido Mazzoni (1488> S. Paolo (12, C. 2) has one of the masterpieces of ScarseUino, the De- scent of the Holy Ghost. An Adora- tion of the Magi, and the vault of one of the side-chapels, are by the same master. The choir was painted by ScarseUino and Bonone. The Re- surrection is by Bastianino. Two painters of this school are buried here, — Giambattista Dossi, and Basta- ruolo, who perished while bathiug in the Po. Upon the 5tli pilaster rt. is the *bust, by Vittoria, of Antonio da Montecatino, friend and Minister of Duke Alfonso, better known as a pro- fessor of Peripatetic philosophy. The *Castle, formerly the Ducal Palace, surrounded by its ample moat and bridges, carries the imagination back to the fortunes of Ferrara during the middle ages. " It stands," says Forsyth, "in the heart of the sub- jugated town, like a tyrant intrenched among slaves. It is a huge, square ])uilding, with towers at the angles : it retains few traces of the ducal family, and wears an air of melancholy, in accordance with the deserted aspect of tlie city." Its apartments were formerly decorated by the first masters of the Ferrarese school, but the paintings have entirely disappeared, except on the ceilings of the antechamber and the Saloon of Aurora, where some by Dosso Dossi still remain. The building is now occupied by the Telegraph and various Public Otficr In the dungeons beneath the N.1-. tower, Parisina, wife of Nicholas 111., and her guilty lover Ugo, 'his na- tural son, were put to death. The outlines of that dreadful tragedy have been made familiar to the Eng- lish reader by the beautiful poem of Lord Byron, to whom the subject was suggested by a passage in Gibbon. The following description of the closing scene is from Frizzi's ' His- tory of Ferrara ' : — " It was in those frightful dungeons which are seen at this day beneath the chamber called the Aurora, at the foot of the Lion's Tower, at the top of the street of the Giovecca, that, on the night of the 21st May, 1425, were beheaded, first Ugo, and afterwards Parisina. Zoese, he that accused her, conducted the latter under his arm to the place of punishment. She, all along, fancied that she was to be thrown into a pit, and asked at every step whether she was yet come to the spot? She was told that her punishment was to be by the axe. She enquired what was become of Ugo, and received for answer that he was already dead ; at which, sighing grievously, she ex- | claimed, ' Now, then, I wish not ! myself to live ' ; and, being come to the block, she stripped herself with her own hands of all her ornaments, and, wrapping a cloth round her head, submitted to the fatal blow, which terminated the cruel scene." At the S.E. corner of the Castle is a monument to Girolamo Savonarola, born here in 1452. Further S. is the Municipio, an old mansion of the Este family ; and, nearly opposite, the Archbishop's Palace. The Seminario, behind the latter towards the E., has some admirable *Frescoes of Biblical and Mythological subjects by Garofalo. The *Picture GaUery (10 to 3, I fr. ; Catalogue, 1 fr.), is at the Ateneo Route 95. — Ferrara : Picture Gallery. 361 Oivico (\4, B. 2, 3). The Palace, erected in 1493 for Sigisuionclo d'Este, and in 1567 altered to its present form by another of the family, is entirely of stone, a rarity in this alluvial district; only the N, and W. fronts have been completed, and exhibit diamond-shaped projecting courses, a very unusual style of construction, from which it is generally known as the Palazzo de' Diamanti. Most of the pictures have been brought from suppressed Con- vents or desecrated Churches, and are much restored. Bastaruolo : Crucifixion, a good specimen of a rare painter. Caletti {II Cremonese) : St. Mark writing his Gospel, the painter's best work (1640). Carpaccio, *Death of the Virgin, surrounded by the Apostles (1508), in a glowing light, with his favourite architectural background. Carpi : St. Catharine of Alexan- dria, GorteUini : Virgin and Children, with SS. Agata, ApoUonia, and Lucia (1544). Cosimo Tura : Scenes from the life of S. Maurelius — two round paintings, here attributed to Francesco Cossa. — *St. Jerome, with a striking archi- tectural background. Cotignola : St. Sebastian (1513). Dosso Dossi : *Virgin and Children, with SS. John Evan., Andrew, Se- bastian, George, and the Four Latin Fathers ; " one of the greatest trea- sures of art in N. Italy " (Cic), but ruined by re-painting. — *St. John the Evangelist. — Annunciation. Ercole Gh-andi: Assumption of St. Mary of Egypt, here ascribed to Timoteo della Vite. — *SS. Sebastian, Joseph, and Job, with donors of the Mori family, — -Nativity. — *Virgin and Child, with SS. Petronius and Jerome. FahagaUoni (of Ferrara) : Virgin and Child, with St, Anthony the Abbot and St. Roch. Garofalo : Old and New Testa- ments, a fresco transferred to canvas. This immense and most curious com- position formerly stood in the refec- tory of S. Andrea; it represents the victory of the New over the Old Testament, the ceremonies of the Mosaic being contrasted with those of the New Law, — St. Peter Martyr. — Holy Family — Madonna del Eiposo (1525). — * Madonna and Child in glory, with SS. Jerome and Francis, and two donors of the Sussena family (1514). Fine landscape background. — Virgin and Child (del Pilastro), with SS. Jerome, John Bapt., Francis and Anthony, and a donor of the Trotti family, — Same subject with St, Bar- tholomew — the painter's last work (1549). — Mass of S. NiccoloTolentino. *Adoration of the Magi (1537), one of his masterpieces. The pink (garofalo) is introduced, in allusion to the painter's name. — Christ in the Gar- den. — Slaughter of the Innocents (1519). — *Resurrection of Lazarus. — ■ Discovery of the Cross. Guercino (1536): St, Bruno before the Virgin. — *Decollation of S, Mau- relio, Lorenzo Costa (School of) . Nativity (1513) here ascribed to Ortolano, Perhaps by Garofalo. Luca Longlii: Circumcision. Mazzolino : Nativity with SS. Bene- dict and Albericus — his only large work. Panetti : Fresco bust of St. Paul. — Annunciation. — Same subject, with the Trinity above. Bocco Marconi: *Tribute Money, here ascribed to Falma. Snhleyras: Portrait of Benedict XIV, Tintoretto : Madonna del Rosario, with SS. Dominic, George and Maure- lius. Opposite the Museo Civico is the Palazzo Prosperi, with a beautiful decorated entrance designed by B. Peruzzi. Palazzo del Magistrato (16 C. 2, 3). In a hall of this palace the Accademia degli Ariostei held its sittings ; it has succeeded to the Accademia degV Intrepidi, one of the first poetical societies of Italy, but is now a literary and scientific institution. Near its hall of assembly some small rooms 362 Boute 95. — Ferrara: University; Pahlic Lihrary. are shown which were occupied by Calvin, wlieii he found an asyhim at the Court of the Duchess Renee under the assumed name of Charles Heppe- ville. Here the stern reformer secretly expounded his doctrines to the small band of disciples whom the favour of his patroness had collected together. Among these were Anne de Parthenay, Olympia, Morata, Marot, Francesco Porto Centese, and other Protestants whom persecution had driven from beyond the Alps. The University, or Studio Puhhlico (15, C. 3), enjoys some celebrity as a school of medicine and jurisprudence. It contains a rich cabinet of medals, and a collection of Greek and Roman inscriptions and antiquities ; among which is a colossal sarcophagus of Aurelia Eutychia. But its chief in- terest is The *Public Library (8 to 3), con- taining 100,000 vols., and upwards of 1000 MSS., among which are the Greek palimpsests of Gregory Nazian- zen, St. Chrysostom, &c. The most remarkable, hoAvever, and the most valuable of all its treasures, are the MSS. of Ariosto and Tasso. The for- mer are in a room where the poet's armchair of walnut wood, the beauti- fully executed medal bearing his profile, which was found in his tomb, and his bronze inkstand surmounted by a Cupid enjoining silence, which he is said to have designed himself, are deposited. These MSS. comprise a copy of some cantos of the Orlando Fnrioso, covered with corrections, and remarkable also for the following memorandum which Alfieri begged permission to inscribe — " Vittorio Al- fieri vide e venero 18 Gingno, 1783 " ; one of the Satires ; the comedy of La Scolastica ; and some highly interest- ing letters, among which is one from Titian to Ariosto. The MS. of the Gerusalemme is one of the most touch- ing records in Ferrara; it was cor- rected by Tasso during his captivity, and ends with the words Laus Deo. Like the Orlando, this is also remark- able for its corrections and cancelled passages, many of which are ex- tremely curious, and worthy of being published. There are likewise nine letters of Tasso, written while con- fined in the hospital of St. Anna ; and a small collection of his Bime. An- other MS., which seems to lose its interest by the side of the two great Epic poems, is that of the Pastor Fido of Guarini. A valuable treasure, but of a different character, is the series of Choir Boohs, in 18 volumes, filled with beautiful miniatures, which formerly belonged to the Certosa. There is also a Bible, in one large volume, illustrated with miniatures in the same style, and apparently by the same hand. Among the printed books are 52 early editions of Ariosto, a fine col- lection of cinque-cento editions, and a large series of books printed at Ferrara, one of the first cities in which the printing-press was estab- lished. Signor Antonelli, curator of this library, in his work on the Fer- rarese printers of the 15th cent., states that during the first 30 years of the 15th cent, upwards of 100 editions were issued from the press of nine printers in Ferrara. Among the most famous was Giambattista Guarini, from whom Aldus, before settling at Venice, received instruction in print- ing Greek. The medical traveller will find here the exceedingly rare work of Giambattista Canani : '* Mus- culorum humani corporis picturata dissectio," without date, but referable to the middle of the IGth cent. In one of the rooms are some very interesting Portraits of Ferrarese Authors, from the earliest period down to Cicognara and Monti ; and in another, 18 Portraits of Ferrarese Cardinals, the most interesting of which, from his connection with Ariosto, is that of Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, in whose service the great poet had spent so many painful and unpi'ofitable years. Aggiungl cbe dal giogo Del Cardinal da Este oppresso fui. In a third room, called the Sala d' Ariosto, is his Tomb, brought here Itotite 95. — Ferrara : Palazzo ScJiifanoia. 363 by the French from S. Benedetto, on the 6th of June, 1801, the anniversary of the poet's death. The inscriptions, recording the merits of Ariosto as a statesman as well as a poet, were written by Guarini. The Palazzo Schifanoia, close to S. M. in Vado, a pleasure retreat of Duke Borgo d'Este, was decorated for that prince with *frescoes by Cosimo Tura and Francesco Cossa (1468-71). Little of their own work now remains, but the series is still highly interest- ing as an illustration of life and costume, and a specimen of the Ferrarese School. The principal subjects are the signs of the Zodiac, and events in the history of Borso, among which are some wonderfully clever portrait heads. The decora- tive portion includes a crowd of beautiful children (le Arti Bambine). In a smaller room is a remarkably handsome coffered ceiling, gold on blue, returned down the cornice, and ending with putti in stucco. In the Piazza Ariostea (B. 3) is a Statue of Ariosto, standing on a column covered with foliage reliefs by Vidoni (1833). The column once served as a monument to Duke Her- cules I., and afterwards to Napoleon. A cell in the hospital of St. Anna (17, C. 3) is shown as the Prison of Tasso. Over the door is the following inscription, placed there by General MioUis : Rispettate, o Posteri, la cele- hrita di questa stanza, dove Torquato Tasso infermo piu di tristezza che delirio, ditenuto dimorb anni vii. mesi ii. scrisse verse e prose, e fu rlmesso in liberta ad istanza delJa citta di Ber- gamo, nel giorno vi. Liiglio, 1586. The dungeon is lighted by a grated window from the yard ; its size is about 9 paces by 6, and about 7 feet high. " The bedstead, so they tell, has been carried off" piecemeal, and the door half cut away, by the devotion of those whom ' the verse and prose ' of the prisoner have brought to Ferrara. The poet was confined to this room from the middle of March, 1579, to December, 1.580, when he was re- moved to a contiguous apartment, much larger, in which, to use his own expressions, he could philosophise and walk about. The inscription is in- correct as to the immediate cause of his enlargement, which was promised to the city of Bergamo, but was carried into eff"ect at the intercession of Don Vicenzo Gonzaga, Prince of Mantua." — Hobliouse. Few questions have been more debated than the cause of the poet's imprisonment. Some believe that he was actually insane. Others regard Tasso as neither more nor less than a prisoner of state, whose sufferings were aggravated by the capricious tyranny of Atfonso. His biographer, the Abbate Serassi, has shown that the first cause of the poet's punishment was his desire to be occasionally, or altogether, free from his servitude at the Court of Alfonso. In 1575 Tasso resolved to visit Eome, and avail himself of the indulgences of the jubilee; "and this error," says Abbate, *' increasing the suspicion already entertained that he was in search of another service, was the origin of his misfortunes. On his return to Ferrara the Duke refused to admit him to an audience, and he was repulsed from the houses of all the dependents of the court ; and not one of the promises which Cardinal Albani had obtained for him was carried into effect. Then it was that Tasso — after having suffered these hardships for some time, seeing him- self constantly discountenanced by the duke and the princesses, aban- doned by his friends, and derided by his enemies — could no longer contain himself within the bounds of modera- tion, but, giving vent to his choler, publicly broke forth into the most in- jurious expressions imaginable, both against the Duke and all the house of Este, cursing his past service, and re- tracting all the praises he had ever given in his verses to those princes, or to any individual connected with them, declaring that they were all a gang of poltroons, ingratefuls, and scoundrels (poltroni, ingrati, e ribaldi). For this offence he was arrested, con- 364 Boute 95. — Ferrara : Prison of Tasso. ducted to the hospital of St. Anna, and coufiued iu a solitary cell as a madman." His own correspondence furnishes evidence of the treatment he experienced ; — for almost the first year of his imprisonment he endured nearly all the horrors of a solitary cell, and received from his gaoler, although himself a poet, every kind of cruelty — " ogni sorte di rigore ed inumanita." " On the walls of Tasso's prison are the names of Lord Byron, Casimir Delavigne, and Lamartine's verses on Tasso, written in pencil. Notwith- standing these poetical authorities, with the inscription Jngresso alia prigione di Torquato Tasso at the en- trance, another inside, and the repairs of this pretended prison, in 1812, by the prefect of the department, it is impossible to recognise the real prison of Tasso in the kind of hole that is shown as such. How can any one for a moment suppose that Tasso could have lived in such a place for seven years and two mouths, revised his poem there, and composed his different philosophical dialogues in imitation of Plato? I had an oppor- tunity of consulting several well-in- formed gentlemen of Ferrara on this subject, and I ascertained that not one of them believed this tradition, which is equally contradicted by his- torical facts and local appearances. There was enough in Tasso's fate to excite our compassion, without the extreme sufferings he must have ex- perienced in this dungeon. Alfonso's ingratitude was sufficiently painful : a slight on the part of Louis XIV. hastened the death of Racine ; and witli such spirits mental afflictions are much more keenly felt than bodily pains. Madame de Stael, who was ever inclined to commiserate the mis- fortunes of genius, was not misled by the legend of the prison of Ferrara : Goethe, according to the statement of a sagacious travellei-, maintains that the prison of Tasso is an idle tale and that he had made extensive researches on the subject." — Valery. Sir John Hobhouse, in reference to the inscription on the cell, says that " Common tradition had long before assigned the cell to Tasso : it was assuredly one of the prisons of the hospital ; and in one of those prisons we know that Tasso was confined. Those," he adds, " who indulge in the dreams of earthly retribution will observe that the cruelty of Alfonso was not left without its recompense, even in his own person. He survived the affection of his subjects and of his dependants, who deserted him at his death, and suffered his body to be interred without princely or decent honours. His last wishes were neg- lected ; his testament cancelled. His kinsman, Don Csesar, shrank from the excommunication of the Vatican, and, after a short struggle, or rather suspense, Ferrara passed away for ever from the dominion of the house of Este." Ferrara ! in thy wide and grass-grown streets Whose symmetry was not for solitude, There seems as 'twere a curse upon the seats Of former sovereigns, and the antique brood Of Este, which for many an age made good Its strength within thy walls, and was of yore Patron or tyrant, as the changing mood Of petty power impell'd, of those who wore The wreath which Dante's brow alone had worn before. And Tasso is their glory and their shame ; Hark to bis strain ! and then survey his cell ! And see how dearly earn'd Torquato's fame, And where Alfonso bade his poet dwell : The miserable despot could not quell The insulted mind he sought to quench and blend With the surrounding maniacs, in the hell Where he had plunged it. Glory without end Scattered the clouds away— and on that name attend The tears and praises of all time; while thine Would rot in its oblivion — in the sink Of worthless dust, which from thy boasted line Is shaken into nothing ; but the link Tliou formest in his fortunes bids us think Of thy poor malice, naming thee with scorn — Alfonso ! how thy ducal pageants shrink From thee ! if in another station born, Scarce fit to be the slave of him thou mad'st to mourn. Childe Harold. Next to the liospital is the hand- some Palazzo Roverella, a good speci- Boute 95. — Ferrara— Cento. 365 men of the terra-cotta Decorated style of the 16th cent. The Theatre (20, C. 3) is one of the finest in Romagna. The first opened in Italy is said to have been here. The Casa di Ariosto (18, B. 2) is mai-ked by an inscription composed by the great poet himself: — Parva sed apta mihi, sed nuUi obnoxia, sed non Sordida, parta meo sed tamen aere domus. Above it is the following, placed there by his favourite son and biographer, Virginio : — Sic domus haec Ariosta Propitios habeat deos, olim ut Pindarica. Ariosto built this house between 1526 and 1528, inhabited it during the latter years of his life, and died in it in 1533. When some visitor expressed surprise that one who had described so many palaces had not a finer house for himself, he replied that the palaces he built in verse cost him nothing. After his death nearly all the charac- teristics of the house, described with so much interest by the poet, were destroyed by its subsequent pro- prietors ; still it remained in the male line of the family, until the middle of the last cent. In 1811 Count Giro- lamo Cicognara, when chief magis- trate or Podesta, induced the town council to purchase it, as one of those national monuments which ought to be beyond the caprice of individuals. The chamber of the poet was then carefully restored, and the circumstance was recorded in the in- scription placed under his bust. The Casa degli Ariostei, in which the poet was educated, is situated in the Via Sta. Maria de' Bocche, near the University. He lived there for the pui'pose of pursuing his legal studies under the superintendence of his paternal uncles ; but he soon gave up law for the more congenial study of poetry and romance. It was in one of the chambers of this residence that Ariosto, with his brothers and sisters, performed the fable of Thisbe and other comic pieces of his own composition. The room is still shown, and is well adapted for such repre- sentations. On the death of his father, the poet removed from this house to the one already described. Some of the private palaces in Fer- rara contain good pictures. In the Palazzo Costabili, S, of S. M. in Vado (D. 3), are some Old Testament sub- jects in grisaille by pupils of Garo- falo. Rly. S.E. to Ravemia (Rte. 97); W. to Parma (Rte. 96). FEKRARA TO BOLOGNA. On leaving the walls of the city the Rly. crosses a canal, and traverses a perfectly level plain, covered with rice, maize, and corn-fields, and im- mense plantations of hemp. Poplars and campanili also abound. The fields are frequently surrounded with vines trained on elms, illustrating the figure so often met with in ancient Latin poetry, of the marriage of the vine and the elm. Few cottages are seen, but the appearance of the people in- dicates prosperity and comfort. 78 m. Poggio Eenatico, on the rt. Leaving this, the line soon crosses the Reno, beyond which, on the rt., is the village of 81 m. Galliera, in the centre of a district noted for its hemp. 83 m. S. Pietro in Casale, where there is a good mediaeval Campanile. [Dil. twice daily (Rly. in construc- tion) to (8 m. W.) CENTO (5400), a pretty town in a fertile plain not far from the Reno. It is said to derive its name from an ancient settlement of fishermen, who were led to fix upon this spot by the great number of craw- fish in the neighbouring waters. They built a hundred huts(ce7ito capanmicce), and this number became the appellation of the town which subsequently arose 36G Route 95. — Boloyna, upon their site. Here was the college of S. Biagio, suppressed on the estab- lishment of the First Kingdom of Italy. The Church contains several of the \vorks of Giov. Francesco Barbieri, surnamed Guercino (1590-1666), who was born at Cento. The Casa di Guercino is preserved as a domestic museum of the painter's works. It contains a Venus and Cupid, a Vision of S. Carlo Borromeo, and several small pictures of the Virgin and Child. Here Guercino had his school, and remained in the town till driven away by the war between Odo- ardo Farnese, Duke of Parma, and Urban VIII., when Taddeo Barberini, nephew of the latter, general of the Pontifical troops, determined on forti- fying Cento. Here also he was accus- tomed to receive and regale cardinals who had come to the fair, when his most distinguished pupils served at table, and in the evening performed an extemporised proverb, with which their eminences were enraptured. Queen Christina of Sweden also visited Guercino at Cento. The Chiesa del Rosario is full of his paintings : he is said to have given the design of the front and steeple, and to have worked at the wooden statue of the Virgin ; he is consequently to be seen there as a painter, sculptor, and architect. In the Piazza there is a statue of the Painter, by Galletti. The Pinacoteca contains a fresco of the Virgin and Child with Saints by Lor. Costa : a Holy Family by Geii- narl ; and a fine Virgin and Child with two Saints by Guercino. A little distance S. beyond the Reno is Pieve di Cento, surrounded with walls, and celebrated for its miracu- lous crucifix and the College of Sta. Maria Assunta. It possesses a fine * Assumption by Guido. This noble picture was under sentence of removal at the French invasion of 1797; but the people rose against the intended robbery, and prevented it. Steam Tramway to (19 m.) Bohgna.^ 96 m. Corticella. As Bologna is approached, the Church of Madonna di San Luca on Monte Guardia is a conspicuous object on the rt., and on another hill is seen S. Michele in Bosco. BOLOGNA. RKFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 D 5 Duomo. 2 K 6 S. Bartolommeo di P. R 3 C 4 S. Bartolommeo di R. 4 B 6 S. Benedetto. .5 D 7 S. Cecilia. 6 G 4 Corpus Domini. 1 a 6 S. Domenico. 8 E 7 S. Giacomo. 9 F 6 S. Giovanni in Monte. 10 I) 5 Madonna di Galliera. n D 6 S. Martino. 12 E 5 S. Petronio. 13 F 6 S. Stefano. 14 E 4 S. Francesco. 15 E 4 S. Salvatore. 16 1) 7 University. 17 D 7 Picture Gallery. 18 V 5 Archiginnasio. 19 T) Teatro Comunale. 20 E 4 Post Office. 21 F 5 Piazza Cavour. 22 E 5 Museum. HOTELS. a E 4 Brim. h E 5 Italia. c E 5 Pellegrino. d i> 5 Europa. PAGE Accadeniia delle Belle Arti 388 Filarmonica 397 Anatomical Museum 387 Antiquities, INIu.^eum of 392 Archbishop's Palace 394 Archiginnasio 391 Archives 394 Biblioteca Comunale 392 Botanical Garden 388 Campo Santo 398 Casa Rossini 396 Cassa di Risparmio 386 Cathedral 370 Churches : — S. Bartolommeo di Porta Ravegnana . 371 di Reno 371 S. Benedetto 371 S. Catarina Vigri 372 S. Cecilia 371 S. Colombano 377 Certosa 398 Corpus Domini 372 S. Domenico 372 S. Francesco 374 S. Giacomo 374 Ltmticn.; John Miirrfty. AtheJnarU, Strtet. Boiite 95. — Bologna : History. 367 Churches : — page S. Giorgio 376 S. Giovanni Battista 376 in Monte 376 S. Gregorio 376 S. Leonardo 377 S. M. di Baraccano 377 S. M. dei Bulgari 391 S. M. della Carita 377 S. M. di Galliera 377 S. M. Maggiore 377 S. M. di Mezzaratta . . . . . .397 S. M. di S. Luca 399 S. M. di Pieta 378 S. M. della Vita 378 S. M. Maddalena 377 S. Martino 378 S. Michele in Bosco 400 Misericordia 398 Osservanza 398 S Paolo 379 S. Petronio 379 S. Procolo 382 S. Rocco 382 S. Salvatore 382 Servi 378 Spirito Santo 382 S. Stefano 382 Trinita 383 Vitale ed Agricola 383 Collegio di Spagna 388 Venturoli 388 Felsina, Remains of 393 Fontana Pubblica 384: Geological Museum 387 Giardini Margberita 370 Hospitals 397 Houses of eminent men 396 Leaning Towers 385 Library, Public 391 University 387 Mercanzia 385 Montagnola 385 Monte della Guardia 400 Museo Civico 392 Museum of Natural History . . . .387 Observatory 387 Orthopedic Institute 387 Palaces 394 Palazzo Bentivoglio 394 Comunale 384 Fava 395 • Mas^nani Guidotti 395 del Podesta 384 Palazzino della Viola 388 Pallone, Game of 397 Pavaglioue 385 Piazza Vittorio Rlmanuele 384 Pinacoteca 388 Portico degli Scalzi 397 Residenza della Fabbrica 381 Savings Bank 386 Secchia Rapita 368 Theatres 397 Torre Asinelli 385 Garisenda 386 University 386 100 m. BOLOGNA (135,000), one of the most ancient cities of Italy, was, until 1860, the capital of Romagna, the most important province of the Holy See. It is about 2 m. long by \\ broad, and has 12 gates. It is situated at the foot of the lower slopes of the Apennines, in a beautiful and fertile plain between the Reno, Savena, and Aposa, and is intersected by several small canals. The city is surrounded by a high wall without fortifications, from 5 to 6 m. in circuit. It is the residence of the Prefect of the province, and is one of those interest- ing provincial capitals which no country but Italy possesses in such abundance. The inhabitants still cherish in their love of freedom the recollections inspired by its ancient motto, " Libertas." Bologna has al- ways been the most flourishing and the most advanced in an intellectual point of view of all the cities of the Papal States, although it has never been the residence of a court nor the seat of a sovereign ; and there can be no doubt that this prosperity is attri- butable to the long continuance of its privileges as a free city, and to the freedom of manners and opinions for which its people are remarkable. History. The city existed in the time of the Etruscans, and its ancient name of Felsina is supposed to have been derived from that Etruscan king to whom its foundation as the capital of the twelve Etruscan cities, in984B,c., is attributed. His successor, Bonus, is said to have given it the name of Bononia, although some antiquaries refer it to the Boii, who occupied the city in the time of Tarquinius Priscus. In the middle ages Bologna had he- come independent of the German Em- perors during their contests with the Popes ; and had obtained from the Emperor Henry V., in 1112, not only an acknowledgment of its independence, but a charter granting to its citizens the choice of the consuls, judges, and other magistrates. It subsequently appeared among the foremost cities of the Guelphic league ; and, after Frederick II. had left the war in Lombardy to the manage- ment of his illegitimate son Enzio, King of Sardinia, it "undertook to make the Guelph party triumph throughout the Eoute 95. — Bologna : History. 367 Churches : — page S. Giorgio 376 S. Giovauni Battista 376 in Monte 376 S. Gregorio 376 S. Leonardo 377 S. M. di Baraccano 377 S. M. dei Bulgari 391 S. M. della Carita 377 S. M. di Galliera 377 S. M. Maggiore 377 S. M. di Mezzaratta . . . . . .397 S. M. di S. Luca 399 S. M. di Pieta 378 S. M. della Vita 378 S. M. Maddalena 377 S. Martino 378 S. Michele in Bosco 400 Misericordia 398 Osservanza 398 S Paolo 379 S. Petronio 379 S. Procolo 382 S. Rocco 382 S. Salvatore 382 Servi 378 Spirito Santo 382 S. Stefano 382 Trinitil 383 Vitale ed Agricola 383 Collegio di Spagna 388 Yenturoli 388 Felsina, Remains of 393 Fontana Pubblica 384 Geological Museum 387 Giardmi Margherita 370 Hospitals 397 Houses of eminent men 396 Leaning Towers 385 Library, Public 391 University 387 Mercanzia 385 Montagnola 385 Monte della Guardia 400 Museo Civico 392 IMuseum of Natural History . . . .387 Observatory 387 Orthopa?dic Institute 387 Palaces 394 Palazzo Bentivoglio 394 Comunale 384 Fava 395 Maunani Guidotti 395 del Podesta 384 Palazzino della Viola 388 Pallone, Game of 397 Pavaglioue 385 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 384 Pinacoteca 388 Portico degli Scalzi 397 Residenza della Fabbrica 381 Savings Bank 386 Secchia Rapita 368 Theatres 397 Tone Asinelli 385 Garisenda 386 University 386 100 m. BOLOGNA (135,000), one of the most ancient cities of Italy, was, until 1860, the capital of Romagna, the most important province of the Holy See. It is about 2 m. long by \\ broad, and has 12 gates. It is situated at the foot of the lower slopes of the Apennines, in a beautiful aud fertile plaiu between the Eeno, Savena, and Aposa, and is intersected by several small canals. The city is surrounded by a high wall without fortifications, from 5 to 6 m. in circuit. It is the residence of the Prefect of the province, and is one of those interest- ing provincial capitals which no country but Italy possesses in such abundance. The inhabitants still cherish in their love of freedom the recollections inspired by its ancient motto, " Libertas." Bologna has al- ways been the most flourishing and the most advanced in an intellectual point of view of all the cities of the Papal States, although it has never been the residence of a court nor the seat of a sovereign ; and there can be no doubt that this prosperity is attri- butable to the long continuance of its privileges as a free city, and to the freedom of manners and opinions for which its people are remarkable. History. The city existed in the time of the Etruscans, and its ancient name of Felsina is supposed to have been derived from that Etruscan king to whom its foundation as the capital of the twelve Etruscan cities, in984B.c., is attributed. His successor, Bonus, is said to have given it the name of Bononia, although some antiquaries refer it to the Boii, who occupied the city in the time of Tarquinius Priscus. In the middle ages Bologna had be- come independent of the German Em- perors during their contests with the Popes ; and had obtained from the Emperor Henry V., in 1112, not only an acknowledgment of its independence, but a charter granting to its citizens the choice of the consuls, judges, and other magistrates. It subsequently appeared among the foremost cities of the Guelphic league ; and, after Frederick II. had left the war in Lombardy to the manage- ment of his illegitimate son Enzio, King of Sardinia, it ''undertook to make the Guelph party triumph throughout the 368 Route 95. — Bologna : History. Cispadine region. Belogna lirst attacked Romagna, and forced the towns of luiola, Faenza, Forl'i, and Cervia to expel the Ghibellines and declare for the Church. The Bologuese next turned their arms against Modena. The Modenese cavalry, entering Bologna one day by surprise, carried off from a public fountain a bucket (secchia), which henceforth was preserved in the tower of Modena Cathe- dral as a glorious trophy. The war which followed furnished Tassoni with the subject of his mock-heroic poem, ' La Secchia Rapita.' The vengeance of the Bolognese was, however, anything but burlesque ; after several bloody battles the two armies finally met at Fossalta, on the 26th of May, 1249. Filippo Ugoni of Brescia, who Avas this year Fodesta of Bologna, commanded the Guelph army, consisting chiefly of de- tachments from all the cities of the Lombard league : the Ghibellines were led bv Enzio ; each army consisted of from 15,000 to 20,000 combatants. The battle was long and bloody, but ended in the complete defeat of the Ghibelline party : King Enzio himself fell into the hands of the conquerors ; he was imme- diately taken to Bologna, and confined in the palace of the Podesta. The senate of that city rejected all offers of ransom, and all intercession in his favour. He was entertained in a splendid manner, but kept a prisoner during the rest of his life, which lasted for twenty-two years." — Sisi/iondi. In the latter part of the 13th cent, the city became a prey to family feuds, and for many years it was harassed by fierce contests for su- premacy among rival families. The Geremei were the leaders of the Guelph party, the Lambertazzi of the Ghibel- lines ; but their mutual hatred was kept in check by the authorities. The Guelph party at length appealed to Pope Nicholas III., whose mediation was so successful that the city acknowledged him as Suzerain ; the tyranny of his legate, however, brought on a revolution in 1334, which ended in the supreme power being seized by the captain of the people, Taddeo Pepoli, who kept it with a firm hand until carried off by the plague in 1347. His sons subsequently sold it to the Yisconti. For upwards of a centurj' after that event Bologna was subject either to the tyranny of the Visconti, or to popular anarch}'' ; the Bentivogli, taking advantage of these feuds, seized and maintained the govern- ment about the year 1430, and ruled the city well until the end of the century. After the victory of Julius II. over the Duca Valentino (Cesare Borgia), the supremacy of the Holy See was de- finitely established in 1507-1512, when Bologna became the seat of a legate. Bologna is one of the few cities of Italy which have been occupied by British troops. During the last struggle with Napoleon in Italy, in 1814, the Austrian army Avas supported in its operations on the Adige by a body of English troops, under General Nugent, who landed at the mouth of the Po and occupied Bologna in February of that year. In 1848 an unjustifiable attempt of the Austrian General Welden to take possession of Bologna was repulsed with great bravery by the Bolognese. During the following year the Austrians were more successful. Having deter- mined to seize on the capital of the Romagna, to counterbalance the occu- pation of Rome by the French, they attacked the city, posting themselves on the heights above it with a force of 15,000 men. The Italian party within the walls resisted for 10 days, when they were obliged to surrender after an heroic defence. From that period Bologna, until 1859, was occupied by the Aus- trians. On the breaking out of the war between Austria and Sardinia in the spring of that year, the Germans, who had rendered themselves exceedingly unpopular, suddenly withdrew : when the townspeople formed a Provisional Go- vernment, which continued to govern the city and the province Avith ability and moderation, declaring at the same time their determination never again to submit to the Papal rule. In 1860, the Bolognese, like natives of all the other cities of Romagna, by an almost unanimous vote, declared in favour of being annexed to the kingdom of Italy, under Victor Emanuel. Bologna has been the seat of a bishop- ric since a.d. 270, and was raised to the rank of an archbishopric by Gregory XIII. in 1583. It has contributed more prelates to the sacred college than any other city of Italy except Rome : am*« the natives Avho have been raised to wK pontificate were Honorius II., Lucius II., Gregorv XIII., Innocent IX., Gregory XV., and Benedict XIV. Route 95. — Bologna : Painting. 369 The epithet of Grassa, given to Bologna by the historian Paul Van Merle, of Leyden, in the 15th cent., applies as much to the living and culinary delicacies of the inhal)itants as to the productions of its fertile territory. The wines of its neighbour- hood are excellent, and the yellow grape {iiva iKiradisci) is much esteemed. Mr. Frank, of the Hotel Brun, has made great efforts of late years to im- prove the culture of the vine on the hills S. of Bologna, and has produced some very superior wines. The morta- della, everywhere known as the Bo- logna sausage, still keeps up its repu- tation. The dogs of Bologna, so celebrated in the middle ages, and alluded to in the epitaph on King Enzius at S. Domeuico, have unfortunately dis- appeared, and a trace of^ their pure breed can scarcely now be discovered. The climate is somewhat relaxing, and the extremes of heat and cold are here severely felt. In other respects, amply provided with the necessaries and luxuries of life, with an intel- lectual society, to say nothing of its works of art, Bologna is well calcu- lated to be an agreeable and econo- mical residence. The Bolognese dialect, of all the forms of Italian which the traveller will meet with, is most puzzling. It was aptly described by the learned grammarian of the 16th cent., Aulus Gellius Parrhasius, as the raucida Boiumemium loquacitas. Forsyth says: " With all the learning in its bosom, Bologna has suffered its dialect — that dialect which Dante admired as the purest of Italy — to degenerate into a coarse, thick, truncated jargon, full of apocope, and unintelligible to strangers." Painting. The School of Bologna occupies a prominent place in the his- tory of art, and numbers amongst its painters many eminent masters, in- cluding : Franco Bolognese, M'ho is sup- posed to have been the pupil of Oderigo da Gubbio, the missal painter, men- tioned by Dante. He opened the first academy of art in Bologna in 1313. Among his successors were Vitale da N. Italy. Bologna (1320), Simone de' Crocifissi — skilled in anatomic knowledge (1370), Jacopo Paolo, or A^}anz^ (1404), Pietro and Orazio di Jacopo, Lippo di Dalmasio, Maso da Bologna, and Marco Zoppo, scholar of Lippo, and afterwards of Squarcione, at Pa- dua (1474), who founded an academy of great celebrity at Bologna. But Francesco Frayicia (1450-1517) may be considered as the true founder of the school. Raphael, in a letter, says that he had seen no Madonnas better designed, more beautiful, or characterized by a greater appear- ance of devotion, than those of Francia. Among the scholars of Fran- cia, whose works may yet be studied at Bologna, were his son Giacomo, Lorenzo Costa (1535), Girolamo Mar- chesi da Cotignola (1550), and Amico and Guido Aspertini (1491). The style introduced into the Bolognese school by Bagnacavallo (1484-1542), and adopted by Innocenzo da Imola (1494-1550), a pupil of Francia, was that of Raphael ; while that of Michel Angel o was adopted by Pellegrino Tihaldi (1527-1591). Their contem- poraries, Primaticcio (1504-1507) and Niccolo Abate (1509-1571), left Bologna to study under Giulio Romano at Mantua, and subsequently settled in France. The school was for a time supported by Lavinia Fontana, Lo- renzino (Lorenzo Sabbatini), Orazio Sammachini, and Passerotti ; bu^ grad- ually declined. Before the close of the 16th cent, a revival of the school occurred under the Caracci. Lodovico Caracot (1555- 1619) *' was a young man," says Lanzi, " who, during his earlier years, ap- peared to be slow of understanding, and fitter to grind colours than to har- monize and apply them." After visit- ing the works of his predecessors in the different cities of Italy, he returned to Bologna, and, with the co-operation of his cousins, Agostino and Annibale, established an academy. Their most distinguished pupils were Domenichino (Domenico Zampieri) (1581-1641), his friend Francesco Al- hani (1578-1660), and Guido Reni (1574-1642), who is considered the 2 B 370 Route 95. — Bologna : Squares ; Churches. greatest genius of the school ; and it is well known that no pupil of the Caracci excited so much as he did the jealousy of his masters. Among the names which figure in the history of the Bolognese school at this period are those of Guido Cagnacci, Simone Cantarini, Francesco Gessi (the best pupil of Guido), and Guercino (1590- 1666). Among the scholars of the Caracci who remained in Bologna after this time are Sisto Badalocchi, Alessandro Tiarini, Lionello Spada, Lorenzo Garhieri, Giacomo Cavedone, Pietro Fucini, Lncio Massari, and Gohbo de' Caracci, so famous as a painter of fruit. The fourth and last period of the school is represented by Carlo Cignani (1628-1719), a success- ful decorator and painter of ' Putti.' Plan for Visiting the principal Objects of Interest in Bologna in 3 dmjs in topograpliiccd order. 1. *Piazza Maggiore (now Vitt. Emanuele) — Palazzo Pubblico, Palaz- zo del Podesta, **S'a» Petronio — Por- tico del Pavaglioue, Archiginnasio — Piazza Cavour — *San Domenico, Cor- pus Domini, Palazzo Bevilacqua, S. Paolo — CoUegio di Spagna, Palazzo Zambeccari, S. Salvatore, S. Fran- cesco, *Madonna di San Luca (view), and the Campo Santo. 2. San Bartolommeo in Reno, S. Giorgio, S. Gregorio, Cathedral, Pa- lazzo Fava, Madonna di GalUera, S. Martino — *Pinacoteca, S. Benedetto, Montagnuola Gardens. 3. Foro de' Mercanti, Palazzo Pe- poli, Cassa di Eisparmio, S. Giovanni in Monte, *S. Stefano, Palazzo Zam- pieri, S. Mai-ia dei Servi, SS. Vitale ed Agricola, *University, S. * Giacomo, *S. Cecilia, S. Bartolommeo di Porta Eavegnana, *S. Michele in Bosco, STREETS, SQUARES, AND GARDENS. Porticoes forming covered side-walks exist here to a greater extent than in any other Italian city. Those in the older quarters are low and gloomy, and the streets themselves irregular and narrow, but in the new parts of the city they are light and hand- some. The main thoroughfares radiate from the central portion of the city like the spokes of a wheel. Squares.— The Piazza Maggiore, now Vittorio Emanuele (E. 5 ), is de- scribed below under the Public Build- ings. Behind S. Petronio is the oblong Piazza Galrani, and not far S.E. is the new and pretty Piazza Cavour. The only Garden within the walls is the Montagnuola (B. 6), a slight elevation, commanding a good view, but now almost deserted. Close to it is the Arena di Pallone. Outside Porta Castiglione and Porta Santo Stefauo are the Giardini Margherita (H. 7), forming an extensive park, well laid out, and embellished with ornamental shrubs and water. CHURCHES. The Cathedral (D. 5), dedicated to St. Peter, is of very ancient founda- tion, but has been several times re- built. The present edifice was begun in 1605; the front and some of the chapels were added in 1748. The fine Lombard campanile is almost all that remains of the original cathedral. The spacious interior is in the Corinthian style ; on each side of the door are rude lions in red Verona marble, on which stand vases for holy water ; they probably supported the columns of the portal of the ancient edifice, and are attributed to Ventura da Bologna. Several of the altars have handsome marble columns. In the -ind chapel on the rt. is pre- served the skull of St. Anna, presented in 1-435 by King Henry VI. of Eng- land to Niccolo Albergati, better known in history as the Cardinal of Santa Croce. The Sacristv, opening out of the rt. transept, contains a Ci*ucifixion,by Bagnacavallo, witli floating angels. In the Camera del Capitolo, St. Peter Route 95. — Bologna : Churches. 371 mourning with the Virgin for the death of the Saviour, by Lodovico Caracci. In the passage leading to the Sacristy there is a curious relief of the 16th cent., on the tomb of Lorenzo Pini, a Doctor of Laws. Here also is a Crucifixion, and a Deposition in terra- cotta, by Alfonso Lomhardo. The Choir, designed by Domenico Tihaldi, has on the vault of the apse a painting designed by Fiorini and coloured by Aretusi, representing our Saviour giving the keys to St. Peter in the presence of the Apostles; and on the arch above the high altar a fresco of the Annunciation, the last work of *Lodovico Caracci. The gilt bi'onze ornaments in the 3rd chapel 1. were executed at the cost of Bene- dict XIV., when archbishop of this his native city. On an adjoining pier is the moimment of Cardinal Lante ; and at the extremity of the N. aisle one to Gregory XV., with his bust. In the Baptistery (1st 1.) is the Baptism of our Saviour, by Ercole Grazini. On St. Peter's Day some costly tapestries are exhibited in this Church, executed at Rome from the designs of Raphael Mengs, and pre- sented by the same pontiff. The Crypt beneath the choir is curious, and con- tains numerous relics. There are some good slab-tombs from the floor of the old cathedral in the passage leading to the episcopal residence. S. Bartolommeo di Porta Ravegnana was erected in 1530 by Andrea Fonni- glne. The handsome portico was built for the Palazzo Gozzadini, and the reliefs of its pilasters, the work of Lombard sculptors, are well Avorthy of observation. On the owner's death, before the completion of his mansion, a Church was built on to the portico. A doorway with arabesque and other ornaments in relief is particularly elegant. The interior is well proportioned, but gaudily coloured : in the 2nd chapel on the rt. is S. Carlo Borromeo kneeling before the tomb at Varallo, by Lad. Caracci. 4th, *Annunci- ation, by Albano; by whom also are the lateral pictures of the Birth of the Saviour, and the Angel warning Joseph to flee out of Egypt. Behind the high altar, Franceschini, Martyr- dom of St. Bartholomew. In the 1. transept is an oval *Madonna and Child, by Guido Reni. In 1855 it was stolen and carried to London, but was recovered in 1859. Beside the altar may he seen the wrapper in which "this sacred representation of S. Maria del Su9"ragio " was brought back to Bologna, let into the wall. Under the 4th altar are some figures on coloured terra-cotta representing the Dead Christ and six mourners, well executed. S. Bartolommeo di Reno (C. 3, 4) is generally known in the city as the Madonna della Pioggia. In the 1st chapel 1. is the *Nativity, by Agostino Caracci. The two prophets on the vault of the chapel are by the same master. The *Circumcision and *Ado- ration of the Magi at the sides are by Lod. Caracci. In the oratory, St. Bar- tholomew, by Alfonso Lomhardo. S. Benedetto (B. 6) has, in the 1st chapel on the rt. beyond the dome, the marriage of St. Catharine in the presence of four saints, by Lucio Massari. In the 2nd, Annunciation, by E. Procaccini. In the 4th, S. An- tonio Abate beaten by demons, and a " Charity " on the ceiling, by Cave- done. Sta. Cecilia (D. E. 7), an ancient Oratory, has sufi'ered much from long serving as a passage to S. Giacomo Maggiore, the sacristan of which has the keys. It was erected in 1481 at the expense of Giovanni Bentivoglio, and is celebrated for its *frescoes by early painters of Bologna, restored carefully in 1876. Commencing on the 1. of the altar, the subjects are : — 1. The *Marriage of St. Valerian with Sta. Cecilia, by F. Francia. 2. *Valerian instructed in the faith by St. Urban (Lor. Costa). 3. The Baptism of Valerian, by Tamaroccio. 2 B 2 372 Moute 95. — Bologna : Churches. 4. Tlie Angel crowning the betrothed Saints with garlands of roses, by Chludarolo. 5. The brothers Valerian and Tiburtius beheaded in the pre- sence of the Prefect. 6. Their funeral. 7. Sta. Cecilia and the Pre- fect : the last three subjects are by Amico Aspertini. 8. Sta. Cecilia placed in the boiling batli, by Tama- roccio. 9. The *Saint distributing her Riches to the Poor, by Coda. 10. *Her funeral, a very graceful composition, by Francesco Francia. Corpus Domini (G. 4), better known as 8. Catarina VigrL has a beautiful moulded terra-cotta doorway belong- ing to an older loth-cent, building. It is sometimes styled La Santa, the Saint being held in great veneration. An extensive nunnery was attached to it. 1st chapel, St. Francis, with a fine landscape, by Calvaert, and two columns of Verde antico. 4th, The Descent into Hades, and the Burial of the Virgin, by Lodovico CaraccL The statues of the Virgin and Child, the reliefs of the mysteries of the Rosary which surround them, and the two large Angels, are by Giuseppe Mazza. Over the high altar, Christ feeding the Apostles, by Marcantonio Franceschini. In the 1. transept are six fine columns of rosso di Francia. The Annunciation, in the 2nd chapel on the 1., is by Franceschini, whose masterpiece, the *Death of St. Joseph, is in the 1st, the ceiling of which is also painted in fresco by him. In a closed Chapel behind the 1. transept is preserved the body of S. Catarina Vigri, enthroned in state, and gor- geously arrayed. San Domenico (G. 6) was restored in the 18th on a 13th-cent. founda- tion, and originally consisted of two distinct churches. The great portal is a fine Lombard arch ; the best portion remaining is on the N. side, which has a marble Italian-Gothic frieze and cornice. The outer walls were pierced with two ranges of lancet-shaped wiudows, now bricked up. The *ro3iB OF St. Domixic, j the founder of the order of Preaching i Friars (1221), the early triumph of Niccolb da Pisa's genius, is in the large chapel on the rt. This great master did not complete the pulpit at Pisa until 25 years after the date of the present work (1225), and con- sequently we may regard this as the foundation of a new era in that branch of art. The reliefs surround- ing the sarcophagus represent in front, Napoleone da Torre Nuova restored to life by St. Dominic in the presence of his family, who are de- ploring his death ; the miracle of the book which cannot be burned : rt. side, St. Peter and St. Paul in heaven giving the charge of converting heretics to the saint ; communication to the members of the Dominican Order: 1. side — Miraculous support of the Order. At the back, the threatened death of St. Reginald of Orleans, a disciple of the saint ; his preservation by the Madonna ; his recourse to St. Dominic; the dream of Pope Houorius III. and its reali- zation. Those on the back are by Fra Guglithno Anelli. Below the principal reliefs in front is another interesting series of smaller ones by Alfonso Lomhardo, forming a kind of predella, executed 3 centuries later, and not superior in delicacy or feeling. The subjects are — the Birth of Christ; the birth of the Saint ; his sleep as a child; his charity; and his death. Of the lower series of statuettes, that of S. Petronius, with his church in his hand, is a work of Michel Angelo in his youth (1501), as is likewise the angel on the rt. The other angf-1 and the statues of SS. Francis and Pro- culus above are, according to Vasari, by Niccolb da Bari, called delV Area, from this work. The reliefs on the front of the altar, representing the entombment of St. Dominic, are by Tasi and Salvolini, artists of the 1 7th cent. The architecture of this chapel is by Terribilia: the 1st picture on the rt., the Child brought to Life, is by Tiarini. The *frtsco on the vault above the altar, representing the glory of Paradise, with the Saviour and the Virgin receiving the soul of the saint in Paradise, amidst a host of angels. Boiife 95. — Bologna : Churches. 373 is one of the finest compositions of Guido Belli. The saint burning the books of the converted heretics, on the 1. nearest the iron gate, is by LionelJo Spada. In the 1st chapel rt. of the princi- pal entrance, a small picture of the Madonna, called " Del Yelluto," over the altar, is by Lippo di Dahnasio. 3rd, Virgin and Child, attributed to Francia. 5th, the Madonna delle Febbri, a good picture of the 15th cent., brought from S. Giorgio, where it had a reputation for curing fever patients. All these are glazed. Rt. transept, St. Thomas Aquinas writing on the subject of the Eucharist, with angels, by Guercino. Monument erected by the Clementine Academy to the memory of Count Marsili, founder of the Institute. The Sacrtstv contains the Birth of the Saviour, or "La Notte," by Luca Cangkisi, a repetition of the smaller painting preserved in the Academy. On the 1. of the door is a terra-cotta *bust of a Dominican, by one of the Lomhardi. S. Jerome is by Lio- nelJo Spada. The Irdarsiatura of the presses and of the entrance-door are by the artists who executed those in the choir. The large statues of the Virgin and of San Domenico are of cypress wood painted white, and according to the verses inscribed underneath, were carved out of a tree which S. Dominic himself had planted. In the chapel on the rt. of the choir is the *Marriage of St. Catharine, with SS. John Bapt,, Peter, Benedict, and Sebastian, a fine work by Filip'pino Lipjpi (lbO\). In the apse is the Adoration of the Magi, by BartoJommeo Ces/, who painted also SS. Nicholas and Dominic along- side. The *stalls of the choir are inlaid with Scripture subjects by Fra Damiano da Bergamo, and Fra Antonio Asinelli, both Dominican friars (loll). In the 1. transept is an inscription on the wall to Enzio, King of Sardinia, sou of the Emp. Frederick II., made prisoner by the Bolognese in 1249, and detained here in captivity until his death in 1272. In the long Latin in- scription the haughty republic makes the record of its royal captive the object of a higher compliment to itself; the present record replaced in 1731 a more ancient one. In singular contrast to this tomb, the adjoining chapel contains that of Taddeo Pepoli (elected to the supreme authority in 1337), the celebrated ruler of Bologna, by the Venetian artist Jacopo Laii- franl : the sarcophagus rests on a basement, covered with black and white checker -work, the armorial shield of the family. The sculptures represent Pepoli rendering justice to his fellow-citizens. The altar-piece, SS. Michael, Dominic, Francis, and the Saviour, with angels above, is by Giacomo Francia. The 1. transept contains also the Chapel of the Eelics ; among them is the head of St. Dominic, in a silver case of 114 lbs. weight, made in 1383, at the joint expense of the city, of Benedict XL, and of Card. Matteo Orsini. The body of the Beato Giacomo da Ulma, the painter on glass, is also preserved here. To the rt. of the principal altar is a curious picture of the Paschal Lamb, attributed to Vasari. Opposite the monument of King Enzio is the portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas, by Simone da Bo- logna, asserted by the annals of the Order to be an authentic likeness, though painted a hundi-ed years after the saint's death, and preserved here for 400 years. The Chapel of the Madonna del Rosario, opening out of the 1. aisle, contains inscriptions painted on the wall, referring to Guido Eeni and his pupil Elimhetia Sirani, who died (1665) in her 26th year; both buried in this chapel. Guido's sepulchral slab is in front of the pavement. Over the altar is a series of small paintings repi'esenting the 15 mysteries of the Rosary ; the Visitation, and the Flagellation of our Saviour, are by Lod. Caracci ; others are by Guido and B. Cesi. In the vestibule leading to the Piazza on the N. is the *tomb of Alessandro Tar- tagni, of Imola (1477), a celebrated lawyer, by the Florentine sculptor 374 Route 95. — Bologna : Churches. Francesco dl Slmone ; and opposite one of the Volta family, M-ith a statue of S. Proculus, holding an axe, by Lazzaro CuKari. In the 2ncl chapel on the 1. is S. Kainiondo crossing the sea on his nnintle, by Lod. Caracci. In the first cliapel 1. is a bust of S. Filippo Neri, from a cast taken after his death. The Cloisters contain some in- scriptions and ancient tombs, among ■which are those of Giov. d" Andrea Calderini, by Jacopo La iifntn I (123S), and of BartolommeoSaliceli, by -4/KZrt« da Fiesole (1412). There is preserved here a portion of a painting by Lippo di Dahnasio, representing the Mag- dalen at the feet of Christ, his earliest work ; the head of the Magdalen is destroyed. Beyond this, in the same corridor, is the Trinity, with S. Lo- renzo presenting a Dominican friar, by Petnis Joannis (14th cent.). The bronze Statue of St. Dominic, standing on a red-brick column in the Piazza, Mas cast at Milan in 1G23 : the Madonna del Eosario, on a marble one, is by Giulio Cesare Couventi. Of the two sepulchral monuments, the more elegant one near the Church is the tomb of the jurist Rolandino Pas- saggeri, who held the office of Corre- taro of the corporation of notaries, and who, while holding the office of town clerk, Avas selected to write the reply of the Kepublic to the haughty letter of the Emperor Frederick II., de- manding the release of his son King Enzio ; the other, at the corner of a street, was raised to a member of the family of Foscherari in 1289. The early Christian reliefs forming one of the arches of the canopy are more ancient, Hoth tombs stand under canopies supported by columns. *S. Francesco ( E. 4), begun by Marco Bresciano in 124G, consecrated in 1250, and finished in 12G0, is a fine specimen of Italian-Gothic. It was desecrated in 1798, and converted into the custom-house (Dogana), but re- opened for worship in 1847. In 1866 the Church was again turned to secu- lar uses, but given back to the clergy in 1886, and is now restored. The restorations are not altogether suc- cessful, as an example of pure Italian- Gothic. The grand nave and aisles, with seven pointed arches, are sup- ported by octagonal columns of brick. IMany of its interesting sepulchral monuments — the churches of St. Francis throughout Italy being fa- vourite burying- places — were de- stroyed, or transferred to the Campo Santo at the desecration of the building, but are gradually being re- placed. The marble reredos is a fine work by Giacobello and Fidro dalle Massecjne (1388), restored in 1848. The reliefs represent the Coronation of the Virgin, with saints. Busts of Saints are curiously perched on the pinnacles which crown the structure. Pope Alexander V. was buried here (1410). In the portico of the Piazza Malpighi are frescoes relating to the life of S. Antonio, by Tiarini, Tamhurini, Gessi, 8cc. The mutilated sarcophagus bears the inscription of Accursius, the last of the eminent glossators. Close to it is to be placed the sarcophagus of Rolandino dei Romanzi, now in the Church. The Campanile (1397-14:05) is one of the finest in Bologna. In the middle of the Piazza Mal- pighi stands a restored Column with a Statue of the Virgin, bearing the Barberini arms. *S. Giacomo Maggiore (D. E. 7), formerly belonging to Augustine her- mits, was founded in 1267, enlarged in 1497, but never completed. The brick Campanile is a handsome struc- ture (1472). The doorway has a canopy in w^hich the red marble shafts supporting it rest on lions. On each side are two arched recesses for tombs. An ugly square window has replaced an elegant wheel ; and the two pointed windows have been bar- barously walled up. The beautiful portico adjoining, which forms one side of the Via Zamboni, was erected in 1477 by Giovanni di Bentivoglio. The vaulted nave without aisles re- sembles a vast hall. It is divided into three portions by cross arches and has much boldness of execution. There is Boute 95. — Bologna: Churches. 375 a row of statues over the arches on each side of the nave. In the 1st chapel on rt., a small fresco of the Virgin, " della Cintura," is covered up by a modern one of cherubim. 4th. Conversion of St. Paul, by Ercole Procaecim. 5th, Christ appearing to Giov. da S. Fa- condo, by Cavedoni, who also painted the gradino beneath. 6ih. *Virgin and Child, with SS. John Baptist, Stephen, Augustine, Anthony, and Ni- cholas ; a fine work in Correggio's man- ner, by Bartolommeo Passerotti. 7th. St. Alexis bestowing alms on the poor, by Prospero Fontanel. 8th. *Marriage of St, Catharine, by Innocenzo da Imola (1536), justly called an " opera Raffaelesca ; " " perhaps the most beautiful picture of the master; of most praiseworthy solidity of execu- tion," — Cic. The Saints are John Bapt., John Evan., Joseph, and Mary Magd. 9th. A rich marble Screen. 10th. St. Eoch struck with the plague, and comforted by an angel, by Lodovico Caracci. 11th. Doctors of the Church, by Lorenzo Sahhatini ; the Archangel Michael, before the Madonna, over the altar, by his scholar Calvaert. 12th. The chapel of the Poggi family, designed by Pelle- grino Tibaldi. The Baptism over the altar was finished by Prospero Fon- tana. The compartments of the roof are by Fontana. The fresco of St. John baptizing, and that in illustra- tion of " Many are called, but few are chosen,'' are by Pellegrino Tibaldi. " This large fresco is almost grand in its realization of important symbolical idea." — Cic. 13th (first chapel inside the grille). Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine and Lucia, and the Beato Rinieri, by Calvaert. 15th (said to contain a fragment of the true cross). Ancona, in several compartments, of the Coronation of the Virgin with saints, by Jacopo Avanzi. It bears the inscription, "Lignum Sanctse Crucis D N J C." The Crucifix on the side- wall is by Simone dei Crocijissi (1370). 18th. The chapel of the Bentivoglio family, the ancient lords of Bologna, at the extremity of the N. aisle, con- tains a * Virgin and Child, with SS. Fabiano, Augustine, John Evan., and Sebastian (1449), by Francesco Fran- cia — "his most beautiful work in Bologna, Of the angels who surround the Madonna, those nearest to her are especially lovely ; among the saints, S, Sebastian is one of the most perfect forms of the 15th cent," — Cic. The Ecce Homo in the lunette above is also attributed to this master. In another lunette, one of the visions of the Apocalypse, in fresco, is by Lorenzo Costa, retouched by Felice Cignani, who painted the Annunciation over the arch. The oil painting, on the rt, side of the Virgin throned, with Giov. Bentivoglio and his wife in adoration, in the presence of their numerous family, interesting as a study of costume and character, is by Lorenzo Costa, Francia's able scholar (1488), as are also the curious ones opposite, re- presenting Petrarch's triumphs : one is a procession of Death drawn on a car by buffaloes, and the other, a female figure, by black elephants. The alto-relievo of Annibale Bentivoglio, Lord of Bologna ( 1 4.58), on horseback, is by Niccolb dalV Area. The ex- pressive head in relief of Giovanni II., on a pilaster to the right of the entrance- gate, is by Francesco Francia. The custode keeps also the key of the adjacent Chapel of 8. Cecilia (see above). On the Choir-screen, immediately behind the high altar, is the monu- ment of Master Nicolas de Fabis, M.D. (1438). Next is that of Alex- ander Fabro, Knight of Jerusalem, with his half-length in armour. Opposite the Bentivoglio chapel is the monument of Antonio Bentivoglio, father of Annibale I,, who perished on the scaffold in 143.5, by Jacopo della Quercia. The *effigy, which lies on an inclined plane, represents Dr. Vera of Ferrara (1408), but was removed thence by Annibale and adapted to its present use. Tlie reliefs on the front, added after Quercia's time, com- memorate Antonio's eminence as a jurist. Above the cornice are statuettes of SS. Peter and Paul, with Force, Prudence, Temperance, and Faith. 376 Route 95. — Bologna : Chirches. 21st (just inside the grille\ Virgin and Child, with SS. Benedict, John Baptist, and Francis, hy Cef^l. 11th on tlie left, just outside the grille, Martyrdom of St. Catharine, by Ti- hnrzio Passcrotti. 9th, Presentation in the Tenjple, by Orazio Summachini, ■with Saints on the side-walls. 5th, INIon anient to Cardinal Agucchi, over the side-door, with statues and reliefs, by Gahride Fiorini. 8rd, Last Supper, supposed to be a replica by Baroccio of that in S. M. sopra Minerva, at Rome. The frescoes of Melchisedek and Elijah on the side- walls, and the Angels of the ceiling, are good works of CavL-done. In the 1st chapel is a miraculous crucifix in wood, the history of which can be traced as far back as the year 980. The Piazzetta in front of the Church is named after the composer Rossini, who was educated in the annexed Augustiuian convent, now converted into the Liceo Filarmonico, or great Music School of Bologna. (See Theatres.) San Giorgio (D. 4), built by the Servite Fathers, contains a St. George, at the high altar, by Camillo Pro- caccini. In the 5th chapel 1., the Annunciation, by Loclovico CaraccL S. Giovanni Battista (F. 5) has in its 1st cliapel one of the best works of Lucia 3Iassari — the Saviour appearing to the Magdalen. At the high altar, the Virgin and Child, with St. John the Baptist, St. Luke, and S. Pietro Celestino, by Franccschim. S. Giovanni in Monte (9, F. 6) was built in connection with the Seven Churches now called S. Stefano, which commemorate the scenes of the Passion, San Giovanni having for its title " in Monte Oliveto." It was founded by St. Petronius in 433, rebuilt in 1221, and restored in 1824, without disturbing the general style. It is a Gothic edifice with a groined roof. The great entrance dates from 1.527 ; the eagle in painted terra-cotta over it is by Niccolu daW Area. The nave is separated from the aisles by four wide round arches originally pointed ; the arches of the tribune and transepts being still in the latter style. Over the entrance door is a round *window with St. John and the Seveh Golden Candlesticks, de- signed by Cossa. 1st chapel rt. The, Saviour appear- ing to the Magdalen, by Giacomo Francia. 2nd. Crucifixion, by Ced. 3rd. Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, by Pier Faccini. *St. Joseph with the Infant, and *St. Jerome, by Guercino. 0th. A small oval Madonna, almost hidden by ex-voto oflerings, by Lippo di Dahnasio. 7th. * Virgin enthroned with four Saints, by Lorenzo Costa (1497) — "exquisitely naive angels performing music" — Cic. 8th. The miraculous figure of the Virgin on the wall to the 1., was originally in the ancient Church of S. Eutropio. 9th. S. Ubaldo, by Giov. Battista Bolognini. In the choir, the * Virgin with the Almighty and the Saviour above, and saints below, by Lorenzo Costa (1497) — " excellent specimen as to treat- ment of landscape " — Cie. The Saints are Victor, John Bapt., Augustine, John Evan., Jerome and Sebastian. The terra-cotta *busts of the Apostles over the stalls are by Alfonso Lom- bardo, and the two Evangelists by Fra trbcddo Feirina ; the tarsia work ; is by Peiolo Sacca (1525). In the 1. i transept is a copy of Sta. Cecilia, by | Bapliael, now in the Pinacoteca, which | stood here till 1796. Beneath the ; altar is buried the Beata Elena Dug- i lioli dair Olio, at whose expense it was painted. 6th 1. The figure of the Saviour, carved out of a fig-tree, by : Pietro da Pavia (143U). Behind it is i an old Cross on a column. 2nd 1., \ St. Francis kneeling, a powerful work by Guercino. On the stairs leading to the Via S. Stefano are several tombstones and inscriptions formerly on the fioor of the church. St. Gregorio (D, 4), almost entirely rebuilt after the earthquake of 1779, contains, in the 4th chapel on the 1., one of the early oil paintings of Annibede Caracci : the Baptism of Boute 95. — Bologna : Churches. the Saviour, 2nd 1., St. George de- livering the Queen from the Dragon, with the Archangel Michael above, pursuing the demons, by Lodovico Caracci. Albani was buried in this Church (1660). S. Leonardo (E. 8) contains, in its 2nd chapel, the Annunciation, by Tiarini. At the high altar, Martyr- dom of St. Ursula. 1st 1., St. Ca- tharine in prison, converting Por- phyrius and the wife of Maximianus, both by Lodovico Caracci. Madonna del Baraccano (H. 7) was so called from aConfraternita, established in 1403, in honour of the miracles performed by a picture of the Virgin painted on a bastion of the city walls, called " II Baraccano di Strada Santo Stefano." Over the portico is a statue of the Virgin, by Alfonso Lombardo. At the high altar is the miraculous picture of the Virgin. Francesco Cossa, of Ferrara, repainted it in 1450, adding portraits of Giov. Bentivoglio, and Maria Vinciguerra. The frieze of flowers which adorns this altar, and other sculptures of the chapel, are graceful works by Properzia de' Bossi. Madonna di S. Colomhano (D. 4) is covered with frescoes, by various pupils of Lodovico Caracci. St. Francis on the rt. wall is by Antonio, son of Agostino Caracci; the Kepose on the Flight is by Spada ; the Sibyl over the side door, and the Coronation of St. Catharine, are by Lorenzo Gar- hieri ; Sta. Marta, on the vault above, conversing with the Saviour, before ■whom the Magdalen is kneeling, is by Lucio Massari ; by whom are also the Sibyl over the other door, and the Angel bearing the Palm of Martyrdom to Sta. Ursula; the Infant Saviour playing with St. John in the presence of little Angels is by Paolo, brother of Lodovico Caracci, who gave the de- sign. The Virgin, over the altar, is by Lippo di Dahnasio. In the upper oratory, the frescoes of the Passion were the result of a trial of skill among the younger pupils of the 377 Caracci ; among them is St. Peter going out weeping from Pilate's house, by Albani. Santa Maria della Carita (D. 3), formerly attached to a Franciscan convent, noAV a military hospital, con- tains, in the 1st chapel, the Visitation, by Galanino. 3rd chapel, St. Eliza- beth of Hungary in a swoon at the Saviour's appearing to her, by Frances- cliini. Over the high altar are the Virgin and Child, and Charity and St, Francis, a joint work of Fiorini and Aretusi. 3rd 1., Holy Family with St. Antony of Padua, by Felice, son of Carlo Cignani. 6th, Sta. Anna, by the elder Bibiena. Madonna di Galliera (D. 5) has a handsome interior, rebuilt in 1688 on an earlier foundation, with unfinished and damaged terra-cotta front of 1470. In the 2nd chapel, St. Antony of Padua, by Girolamo Donnini, pupil of Cig- nani. 3rd, Holy Family, with St. Francis of Sales, and of Assisi, by Franceschini, who painted the frescoes. Behind the high altar a very ancient painting of the Virgin and Child, covered. 3rd 1., Incredulity of St. Thomas, by Teresa Miiratori, cele- brated as much for her talent in music as in painting. 2nd 1. * Albani, the Infant Christ between the Virgin and St. Joseph, with angels above. In the 1st is S. Filippo Neri in Ecstasy, by Guercino. Sta. Maria Maddalena (G. .5) con- tains, at the 1st altar, a Madonna, S. Onofrio, and S. Vitale, by Tihurzio Passerotti ; and at the 3rd, St. Francis and St. James, by the same. The Virgin, with S. Sebastian and S. Eoch, is by Bagnacavallo. Sta. Maria Maggiore (D. 5), an ancient Church, contains at the 1st altar St. John the Evangelist dictating to St. Jerome, by Tiarini. The 3rd has an ancient wooden crucifix. The 5th has a Madonna and Child, with St. James the Less and St. An- tony the Hermit, by Orazio Sammac- 378 Boute 96. — Bologna: Churches. chilli. 1st 1., Madonna with SS. Catha- rine and Onofrio, of the 15th cent, Sta. Maria della Pieta (E. 8), better known as 1 3Ieiidicanti, was stripped of its most valuable treasures at the first invasion by the French, some of Aviiich are in the Pinacoteca, while others have never been restored. 1st altar rt., Sta. Ursula, by Bartolommeo Fasserotti; 2nd 1., St. Anna adoring the Virgin in a vision, by BartoJommro Cesi; 1st, Crucifixion, with the Virgin, St. John, and other saints, by the same master. Sta. Maria de' Servi (F. 7). Form- ing a square in front, and flanking it towards the street, is the grand *Portico de Servi, built upon marble columns, in 1392, by Fra Andrea Manfredi of Faenza, General of the Servites. The fi-escoes in the lunettes illustrate various events in the life of S. Filippo Benizzi. The nave, Italian-Gothic of the 15th cent., is separated from the aisles by- pointed arches, supported alternately on circular and eight-sided columns, over each of which is a round window. The aisles are prolonged round the choir, having numerous chapels. 2nd chapel rt., the Virgin giving the con- ventual dress to the Seven founders of the Order, painted by France- schini when nearly 85 yeai'S of age. In a cupboard on the 1. of the lOth altar (of S. Girolamo) is preserved a marble pitcher, said to have been used at the marriage in Cana, presented by Fra Vital e Baccilieri, General of the Servites, Avho had been ambassador to the Sultan of Egypt in 1350. In the Choir-aisle to the rt., a coloured terra- cotta relief of the Alrgin and Child, Avith SS. Laurence and Eustace and tM'o angels, by Vincenzo Onofri (1508). At the high altar, five *sculptures of tlie Iiisen Christ, Virgin and Child, St. John Bapt., Adam, Moses, and the Latin Fathers, by the Servite Muntorsoli (1.5G1). 14th, the Virgin and Child painted on the wall, and SS. Cosma and Damiano,by Lippo di DaJmasio; oppo- site, the Beato Gioacchino Piccolomini fainting during the celebration of Mass, by Ercole Graziani; the small Madonna above it is another work of Dal masio. In the next chapel is a Virgin En- throned, of the 14th cent. On the back wall of the choir is the slab-tomb of FraAndrea Manfredi of Faenza (139(;), the eminent architect and general of the Order, by whom the Church was founded. Opposite, S. Onofrio, by Calvaert. In the Uth chapel 1., the *fresco of S. Carlo was painted by Guido, gratuitously, in one day. 7th, *Annunciation, by Innocenzoda Imohi. The frescoes of the roof and side-walls are by Bagnacavallo. 5th 1., St. An- drew kneeling before the Cross pre- pared for his Martyrdom, by Alhani. To the rt. is the monument of Card. Ulisse Gozzadini, with his portrait in Roman mosaic. 3rd 1., Noli Me tan- gere, by Alhani. Sta. Maria della Vita (E. 6), founded in 12G0, by the Beato Re- niero of Perugia, who devoted himself on this spot to the relief of the sick, was entirely remodelled in the last cent. In the 2nd chapel are preserved the bones of the Beato Bonaparte Ghi- silieri, brought here in 1718, from the suppressed church of S. Eligio. The picture of the Beato Buonaparte and St. Jerome is by Aurdiano MUani. To the 1. of the high altar is an Annunciation, with S. Lorenzo, painted by Tamlnirini from a design of Guido. Over the high altar is a fresco of the Virgin and Child, by Simoiie da Bologna. To the rt. of the high altar S. Eligio, by Calvatrt, and close by an extraordinary group of the Deposition in stone, with large grimacing statues. The Beato Re- niero healing the Sick during the Plague, in tlie 2nd chapel 1., is by Cavedone. In the Oratory on the first floor is the * masterpiece of Alfonso Loinhardo, a relief in terra- cotta, representing the death of the Virgin in the presence of the Apostles. S. Martino (D. 6) was built in 1313, restored in 1879, and belonged to the Carmelite Friars from the 14th cent, to the period of the French invasion : it has five wide pointed Houte 95. — Bologna : Churclies. 379 arches on either side of the nave supported on short, stumpy, Italo- Gothic columns. The Adoration of the Magi, in the 1st chapel on the rt., is one of the most graceful works of Girolamo de Carpi. In the 4th chapel St. Joachim and St. Anna (1558), by Giovanni Taraschi. 5th, the Virgin and Child, with a sainted bishop, Sta. Lucia, and St. Nicholas, who gives a dowry to three young girls, by Amico Aspertini, pupil of Francia. He was nicknamed " dai due pennelle," because he worked with both hands, liolding at the same time a brush for light and another for dark tints. Behind the high altar is the only work in Bologna by Girolamo Sicciolante, an imitator of Raphael : it represents the Virgin and Child, with St. Martin, St. Jerome, &c., and contains a portrait of Matteo Malvezzi, for whom it was painted. Its frame is unusually large and handsome. Near the door of the Sacristy is the monu- ment and bust of the eloquent Filippo Beroaldi the elder, by Vincenzo Onofrio. In the .5th chapel 1. is an Assumption, attributed to Perugino, but apparently of later date. 4th, St. Jerome, by Lodovico Caracci. 3rd, the Crucifixion, with St. Andrew, and the Beato Pietro Toma, by Cesi. 1st, Madonna and Child, with SS. Roch, Bernardino, Anthony, and Sebastian, by F. Francia — " the landscape is treated quite in a Ferrai'ese manner " — Cic. The St. James in the round window over the altar is by the Beato Giacomo da Ulma, from a design by Francia. The Oratory, formerly the conven- tual library, was painted by Bentnne ; the Dispute of St. Cyril is by Lucia Mamiri. The altar-piece, represent- ing the Incredulity of St. Thomas, is by Giampietro Zanotti. In the Cloister are several sepul- chral monuments, among which is that of a certain Petrus, having a relief with six bearded students (1503). S. Paolo (F. 4, 5), built by the Ber- nabite fathers in 1611, was restored in 1819 and 1878. It belongs to Prince Spada of Rome, whose arms — three swords — are seen on the front. The marble statues of St. Peter and St. Paul are by Mirandola and Conventi. The ceiling is curiously painted, with columns and balconies in perspective, and persons looking over them, by G. Bo^si. At the 2nd altar, * Para- dise, by Lodovico Caracci. Ttie small Madonna underneath is by Lippo di Dahnasio. In the 3rd are the Na- tivity, and Adoration of the Magi, by Cavedone. The frescoes on the vault, representing the Circumcision, the Return from Egypt, and the dispute with the Doctors, are by the same painter. In the rt. transept is St. Gregory showing the souls in purga- tory to the Almighty, the Saviour, and the Virgin in the heavens, by Guercino. Above the high altar the statues of St. Paul and the Execu- tioner are by Alessandro Algardi, who sculptured the ivory crucifix on it : the tabernacle, in the form of a basilica, has colonnettes of jasper. 3rd 1., S. Carlo Borromeo carrying the cross through Milan during the plague, by Lorenzo Garhieri. 3rd rt., Commu- nion of St. Jerome, by Massari. In the choir is some well-carved wood- work. *SAN PETRONIO (E. F. 5) is the largest Church in Bologna, and though unfinished, is one of the finest specimens of the Italian Pointed style of the 14th cent. It was founded in 1390, while Bologna was a free city, the archi- tect being Antonio Vincenzi, ambassa- dor of the Bolognese to the Venetian Republic in 1396. The original plan was a Latin cross, and, if the building had been completed, it would have been 750 Eng. ft. long, or 136 more than St. Peter's at Rome. The exist- ing portion consists merely of what was intended for the nave and aisles, as may be seen on the outside, where the construction of the transept had been just commenced when the work was abandoned. Exterior.— The three canopied door- ways of the unfinished front are fine 380 Boide 95. — Bologna : Churclies. examples of Italian-Gothic ; they are coviTed witli reliefs representii'g various events of Scripture history from the Creation to the time of the Apostles, and are ornamented ■with busts of prophets and sibyls. The *central doorway was entirely executed l»y Jncopo dalla Qntrcia (142f) . The reliefs consist of 32 half-figures of patriarchs and prophets, with the Almighty in the centre of the arcii ; five subjects from the New Testament in the architrave, and five from the Creation to the Delnge, on each pilaster. Under the arch are statues of the Virgin and Child, St. Petronius, and St. Ambrose. The left doorway is remarkable for the angels and sibyls round the arch, by TriboJo, well known as the friend of Benvenuto Cellini, who has left an amusing record of him in his enter- taining biography. The three first subjects on the rt. pilaster are by Alfunsu Lomhardo, and represent Old Testament scenes. The 1. pilaster, Jacob giving his blessing to Isaac, is by an unknown artist. Under the arch is the * Resurrection, by Alfonso Lomhardo, admirable for its simple dignity and truth. The right doorway, by Triholo, has eight sub- jects from the Old Testament on the pilasters. Under the arch is Nico- demus supporting the dead body of Christ, by Amico ; the Virgin is by Tribolo ; St. John the Evangelist, by Ercole Seccadenari. Interior. — " It possesses in a high degree the various peculiarities which cliaracterize the arrangements of the Italian-Gothic — such as the wide and low pier arches whose span equals the breadth of the nave, the absence of the triforium and of the clerestory string, the great empty circles which occupy the space of the clerestory, the exten- sive doming of the vaults, the shallow- ness of the aisles, the heavy capi- tals which surround the piers and half-piers like a band of leaves, and the squareness of the piers with their nook-shafts ; all these serve to make a wide distinction between this ex- ample and those of genuine Gothic; and they are rarely found so com- pletely united even in Italian churches. Each compartment of the aisle has two arches, Mhich open into shallow chapels." — Willis. The ornaments in relief round the great doorway are by BWancesco and Prtronlo Tadolini. Over the pilasters of the side-doors are circular groups in relief, rt. the Annunciation, 1. Adam and Eve in Paradise, by Triholo. The 2nd rt. (that of St. Bridget), re- paired in 1876, is the chapel of the Pepoli, so celebrated in the history of Bologna. The paintings, by unknown artists, on the side-walls (about 1431), are of little value ; the figure praying, on the 1., bears the inscription, Sofia de Ingliiltera fe fa; evidently repre- senting the donatario, or the person at whose expense the work was executed ; the Virgin, with saints and the dona- tario, are by Luca and Francesco da Perugia (Hn), Beyond the 3rd chapel is a monu- ment, by Paccliioni, to Card. Opiz- zoni, more than 50 years Archbishop of Bologna (18.55), who left all he possessed to his adopted city. The fine painted *glass in the 4th chapel is by Jacob ofUlm(1491). 6th, St. Jerome, by Lorenzo Costa, spoiled by retouching. 8th, belonging to the Malvezzi Campeggi families. The marble ornaments on the screen were designed by Vignola. The *tar- sia-work, by Fra Raffaele da Brescia, was formerly in the choir of San Mi- chele in Bosco. 9th— Chapel of St. Antony of Padua. The marble statue of the Saint over the altar is by Sansovino. His miracles, in chiaroscuro, are fine works by Giro- lamo da Treviso. The painted *glass Mas designed by Pellegrino Tibaldi. 10th — Coronation of the Madonna del Borgo S. Pietro on the side-wall, by Francesco Brizzi. 11th— The relief of the Assumption, by Tribolo (1526), stood formerly at the high altar of La Madonna di Galliera. The angels are by Properzia de' liossi. The walls of this chapel support the entire weight of the Campanile. Opposite, outside Boute 95. — Bologna: Churches. 381 the Choir, is a life-size group of the Deposition, by Onofri. The marble statues of St. Francis and St. Dominie, beside the high altar, are by Girolamo Campagna. 10th 1., Statue of *Sta. Barbara, over the altar, by Tiarini. 9th — the Archangel Michuel, by Calvaert (Fiammingo). Curious twisted iron railing of the loth cent., erected by Antonio Barbaca and his wife Mar- garita Pepoli. 8th — St. Eoch, a por- trait of Fabrizio da Milano, by Panne- gianino. . 7th — the Chapel of the Baciocchi family — contains the Tombs of Prin- cess Eliza Baciocchi, sister of Na- poleon, her husband, and three of her children, with a good Virgin and Child with four Saints, by * Costa (1492)— " worthy to be compared with any Francia " — Cic. ; and a fine painted glass window. 5th — the * Annunciation, upon the wall in front, by Coda — "very so- lemnly conceived" — Cic. The Apostles are probably by his pupils. The martyrdom of St. Sebastian, between the Virgin and the Angel, is as- signed to F. Cossa. The tarsia-work beneath was executed in 149.5, by Agostino da Crema. The pavement of enamelled tiles dates from the ear- liest times of this manufacture (1487). On the pilaster between this and the next chapel is a great gilded and much restored wooden Statue of St. Fe- tronius. 4th chapel — the Magi, Paradiso and Inferno, are attributed to Simone da Bologna, or Giovanni da Modena, very early in the loth cent. In the •2nd chapel, rebuilt by Torregiani at the expense of Cardinal Aldrovandi, whose tomb is placed in it, is pre- served the head of St. Petronius, re- moved by order of Benedict XIV. from S. Stefano. This chapel was gaudily restored in 1743, when the head was brought to it. The 1st chapel was rebuilt and repainted in 1868, and the ancient frescoes of the Crucifixion restored. Between the Chapels are several mediajval crosses, which formerly stood at the gates of the city ; one bears the date of 1159, with curious inscription on the back. On the floor of S. Petronio is the meridian line of Gian Domenico Cas- sini, 73 yards long : it was traced in 1653. The Eesidenza della Fabhrica, opening out of the 1. aisle, contains a highly interesting series of original designs for the still unfinished fagade, by the first architects of the period. Three of these are by Palladio ; another bears the following inscrip- tion in his own hand, " Laudo il presente disegno," and has, no doubt erroneously, been attributed to him. There are others by Vignola, Gia- como Ranuccio, his great rival ; Do- menico Tibaldi ; Baldassare Peruzzi ; Giulio Romano and Cristoforo Lom- bardo ; Girolamo Rinaldi ; Francesco Terribilia; Varignana; Alberto Al- berti, of Borgo San Sepolcro ; and unknown artists. Over the entrance- door is the marble bust of Count Guido Pepoli, by Properzia de' JRossi, sup- posed to be that ordered by his son Alessandro, to prove the powers of that extraordinary woman, as men- tioned by Vasari. Over another door are four subjects in relief — Joseph accused before Potiphar, Potiphar's wife, the Tower of Babel, and the En- tombment of Jacob. The first is believed to allude to the history of her own misfortunes. The life of that celebrated and accomplished woman, at once a painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician, is one of the most trag- ical episodes in the annals of art. She died of love at the very moment when Clement VII., after performing the coronation of Charles V. (Feb. 26, 1530), at S. Petronio, where he had seen and appreciated her genius, ex- pressed his desire to take her with him to Rome. The Sacristy contains a series of 22 pictures, representing various events in the history of S. Petronius, from his baptism to his death, by inferior painters. Over the great door stood the celebrated colossal bronze statue of 382 Route 95. — Bologna : Churches. Jnliur, n., by Michel Angel o O50S). I The pope was represented with the keys and a sword in his 1. hand, blessing the Bolognese with his rt. Jiut in 1511, on the return of the Bentivoglio party to power, and by way of reprisal for the destruction of their Palace at the instigation of Julius II., the statue was destroyed by the people, and tlie bronze, said to have weighed l7,50Ulbs., was sold to the Duke of Ferrara, who converted it into a piece of ordnance, under the ap- propriate name of the Julian. When MichelAngeloasked the warlike pontiff whether he should put a book in his left hand, he replied, " A book ! no : let me grasp a sword; I know nothing of letters." S. Procolo (G. 5) belonged before the French occupation to the Benedic- tine monks of Monte Cassino ; its foun- dation is of very ancient date, but the present Church was built in 1.536. In a lunette over the principal entrance is a Virgin and Child with SS, Benedict and Sixtus, by Lippo di Dalmasio. 2nd chapel rt., St. Benedict in ecstasy, by Qs/', who is buried in this Church. 4th 1.. the Virgin in glory, with St, Benedict below, by Ercole Graziani the younger. In the 2nd chapel 1. is the marl)le urn over the altar in which are preserved the bodies of the two martyrs who gave their names to this Church, a soldier and a bishop, found in the ancient subterranean Church in 1390. 1st chapel 1., St. Maurus, by Ercole Graziani. On the outside wall, to the 1. of the door, is the following inscription, to the memory of a person called Procolo, who was killed by one of the bells falling on him as he was passing under the campanile. 6i procul a Proculo Proculi campana fuisset, Nuuc procul a Proculo Proculus ipse foret. A.D. 1393. S. Rocco (D. E. 2) has been con- verted into a "Camera Mortuaria," where the dead are deposited before being carried to the Campo Santo. The oratory is covered with frescoes by late Bolognese artists representing events in the life of the saint, and of the patron saints of Bologna. S. Salvatore (E. 4) was built in 1G05. In the 1st chapel rt. is the Beato A. Canetoli refusing the Arch- bishopric of Florence, by Ercole Gra- ziani. In the rt. transept, the Virgin holding tlie infant Saviour to St, Catha- rine, with St. Sebastian and St. Roch, is by Girolamo de' Carpi. The Corona- tion of the Virgin, underneath, is of the 14tli cent. In the 1. transept is a striking *Nativity by Tiarini ; in the 3rd 1,, a fine *Crucifixion with saints, by Innocenzo da Imola ; in the 9th (1st chapel on the 1.), *St, John kneel- ing before the aged Zacharias, by Garofalo, who has introduced his own portrait, the first on the rt. Guercino was buried in this Church, without any inscription or monument. The Library of the attached Con- vent was handed over to tlie University after 1866, The Church was once the headquarters of English students at the University, who erected here an altar to St. Thomas of Canterbury immediately after his canonisation in 1 173. It was afterwards transferred to a private family, and has now disappeared. Spirito Santo, W. of Madonna di Galliera (D. 5), has a handsome but ruined front in brick and terra-cotta. The pilasters and frieze have ara- besque reliefs, and there is a series of five heads over the door. San Stefano (13, F. fi^, the most ancient ecclesiastical edifice in Bo- logna, and one of the oldest in Italy, is quite a labyrinth of medieval alterations at various dates of an earlier building. It now forms a group of seven churches, and was most probably originally a Roman basilica, of which various fragments are built into the later work, but none of the original construction remains visible. From the piazza we enter the 1st church, that of the Ceocifisso (1637), with a 12th-cent. pulpit on its front. In the 1st chapel on the rt. is a painting by Teresa Muratori and her master, Giuseppe' dal Sole, repre- Houte 95. — Bologna : GhurcJies. 383 senting a father supplicating St. Benedict to intercede for his dying son. Descending some steps on the 1. we enter the octagonal lOth cent. Church of *San Sepolcro, supposed to have been the ancient Lombard Baptistery. The marble columns are said to have been derived from a temple of Isis, which occupied this site. A pillar of brick was added to each of them in the 12th cent. The marble urn beneath the altar, with its ancient symbols, was erected at the same time to receive the body of S. Petronius, who is said to have imparted miraculous qualities to the water of the well. The walls are almost entirely of brick, and over the arches are small windows of two lights. The curious erection in the centre is an ancient Model of the Tomb in the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, with a modern staircase. The 3rd Church is formed out of the Atrio di Pilato, an open Court with colonnades. In the centre is a mediaeval font, which once stood in the Lombard Baptistery, and bears the name of Luitprand (744). Here are many ancient monumental inscriptions. In a chapel is a good painting of St. Jerome and St. Fran- cis adoring the Saviour on the Cross, by Giacomo Francla, and a painted Cruciiic, by Simone da Bologna (\o70), surnamed dei Crocifissi, from the excellence with which he treated this subject. Behind this is the hall of the Compagnia dei. Lomhardl, erected by Benedict XIV. : the keys of the gates of Imola, captured by the Bolognese in 1328, are preserved here. It is open only on the 1st Sun. in Feb. From this Court opens the chapel of the TrixitA, also in a Lombardo- Gothic style, with ancient columns and a groined I2th-cent. vault. S. Ursula, on a pillar to the 1., is by Simone da Bologna ; the Holy Trinity over the altar is by Sammachini. We now enter the 5th Church, that of the Madonna della Consola- ziONE. On the walls are several I4th- cent. paintings of saints. From this enclosed corridor we descend into the Church, the Confessione, a kind of crypt (usually closed), having ancient columns with reliefs, and the bodies of two native saints and martyrs, Vitalis and Agricola. One of the pillars professes to represent the exact height of our Saviour. Re- turning to the 4th Church, we pass into the Sacristy, which has a Virgin and Child with St. Nicholas and other Saints, by Sahbatini, and a painting by Lippo di Dalmasio. Adjacent is a small handsome *Cloister (11th cent.), the upper gallery sustained by twin columns supporting round arches. Some of the capitals on the N.W, side are formed by whimsical figures of men and animals. The 7th Church (usually closed), with its main en- trance towards the Piazza, probably occupies the site of the primitive cathedral, founded by S. Faustiniauus, a.d. 330, but the present structure, dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, is of the 12th cent., with Ptoman materials built in. On some of the massive piers and coupled columns early frescoes of saints have been discovered under the whitewash. There is an Ionic capital on the last column to the rt., apparently antique. Here is the sarcophagus of S. Agricola (9th cent.). To this church, still under restoration, belong several paintings, temporarily placed in the Sacristy and elsewhere. S. Stefano is celebrated for its relics, among which are the bodies of 40 martyrs, brought by S. Petronius from Jerusalem. (Keys at the Municijjio.) Thei-e is a curious reliquary with enamels by Jacopo Bossetti (1380). SS. Trinita (G. 7) has, at the 1st altar rt., the Madonna in Glory, with SS. Jerome, Francis, Douiuus, and Apollonia, and some children playing with the cardinal's hat, by Giov. Bat- tista Gennari, of Cento. SS. Vitale ed Agricola, giving its name to the street leading towards Kavenna, was consecrated in 428 by St. Petronius and St. Ambrose, but has been restored, and preserves nothing of its ancient architecture. Under the portico, to the 1. of the door, is the slab-tomb of a physician, with a 381 Route 95. — Bolo(jna : Public Buildings. relief of a lecture. In the 1st chapel 1. is a graceful painting by *F. Fran- ci'a, " beautiful angels hovering and playing on instruments round an old picture of the Madonna " — Cic. On each side of it is a large fresco — rt., the Nativity, by his son Giacomo ; 1., the Visitation of Mary and Elisabeth, with portraits of the donatorii, by BagudcavaUo. On the wall close by is a curious relief of a bishop wor- shipping Christ in the tomb (1362). Tlie column, with a cross of the early Christians, in the opposite corner of this chapel, formerly stood on the spot in the adjoining street Avhere SS. Vitalis and Agricola suffered martyrdom. The 2nd chapel rt. has a Return from Egypt, by Tiarini. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. At the centre of the city is the Piazza Maggiore (now ViUorio Eman- uele), the Forum of Bologna in the middle ages : it is still surrounded by remarkable edifices rich in historical associations, the relics of the once for- midable republic. It was considered by Evelyn as the most stately piazza in Italy, with the single exception of that of San Marco at Venice. Stand- ing in this square, with his face towards the unfinished front of S. Petronio, the visitor has on his rt. the great mediaeval Palazzo Comunale, on his 1. the Portico dei Banchi, and behind him, at the corner, the Palazzo del Podesta. Facing the Church is a bronze Equkstrian Statue of Victor Emanuel, erected in 1888 on the 800th anniversary of the founda- tion of the University. The Fontana Pubblica (or ell Xet- tuno) was constructed in 1564, while Cardinal (afterwards S. Carlo) Borro- meo was legate. The general design is by Laurdti ; the pedestal and the basin are by Antonio Lupi ; and the poor figure of Neptune (8 ft. high), with the other figures and bronze ornaments, are by Giovanni Bologna. The cost of the fountain, with its pipes and aqueducts, was 14,0U0Z. The Palazzo Comunale, begun in 1290, and restored in 1888, was, prior to 1848, the residence of the Legate and of the Senator, as it is now of the Civil Governor. Its front still ex- hibits some traces of the Pointed style in its eight walled-up windows, but the building has been so altered at various periods, that little uni- formity remains. High up, under a canopy, is a Madonna, by Niccolb delV Area (1494), in terra-cotta, once gilt. The ornaments of the clock are by Tadolini. The entrance g..Loway is by Galeazzo Alessi (1570); lae bronze statue of Gregory XIII. (Buoncompagni of Bologna), erected at the cost of his fellow-citizens, is by Alessandro Menganti (1588). After the revolution of 1796, in order to save the statue, the inhabitants con- verted it into that of S. Petronio, their patron Saint. The tiara was changed for a mitre, and a huge pas- toral staff placed in the right hand, with the inscription " Divus Petronius Protector et Pater." The pastoral staff is quite out of proportion with the dimensions of the statue. A grand spiral staircase of 53 steps, by Bramante, leads to the upper halls. The bronze bust of Benedict XIV., and the ornaments over the door, where it is placed, are by Giamhatti^ta BoJognini. The Saloon of Hercules takes its name from his colossal statue by Alfonso Lombardo (1520). On the 1. is a hall, covered with frescoes, by late Bolognese artists, and in the adjoining chapel is a fresco of the Virgin (Madonna del Terremoto , sup- posed to have been painted by the school of Francia in 1505. The Sala Farnese, on the 2nd floor, so called from a bronze statue of Paul III., has roof and walls covered with paintings, representing the history of the city, by Cignani and other artists. The Palazzo del Podesta was begun in 1201, the front added in 1485 by Bartolommeo Fioravaidi. It has a portico of nine square-headed arches, surmounted by a gallery, and by a second row of arches which are separated by highly decorated Ionic Boute 95. — Bologna: Leaning Totvers. 385 pilasters. It was the prison of Enzio, King of Sardinia, and natural son of the Emp. Frederick II,, captured by the Bolognese at the battle of Fos- salta, in 1249, kept here a prisoner until his death in 1272, and buried in San Domenico. During his long im- prisonment, the prince employed his time in poetical compositions, some of which are marked by considerable taste. The young king, moreover, was beloved in his captivity by a fair damsel of Bologna, Lucia Vendagoli, who succeeded in visiting him under various disguises, and attempted his rescue by concealing him in a cask, and having him carried out in it, but a lock of his golden hair hanging out betrayed the secret. The great hall (170 ft. by 74) is still called Sala del Be Enzio. In 1410, the conclave for the election of Pope John XXIII, was held here ; in the last cent, it was converted into a theatre ; it was afterwards used for the game of pallone ; and was latterly degraded into a workshop. The building also includes the Archives of the Notaries (ArcMvio NotariJe), rich in unpub- lished materials for the history of Bologna, and indeed of Italy during the middle ages. The lofty Torrazzo delV Aringo, rising out of the midst of the building, was erected in 1264, for the purpose, it is said, of watching Enzio. The statues in terra-cotta of SS. Pe- tronius, Florian, Eligius, and Francis, protectors of the city, on brackets, at its base, are by Alfonso Lomhardo. The Portico de' Banchi, occupying one side of the Piazza, was built between 1400 and 1412 : but it is now included, with the Portico dell' Archiginnasio, under the name of Pavaglione, remodelled by Vignola in 1562. Here are some of the principal shops of Bologna. Opening out of it is the Registro, formerly the Col- lege of Notaries, presented to that body in 1283 by the learaed juris- consult and chief magistrate Rolan- dino Passeggeri, who is buried in the Piazza di S. Domenico, The hall, now converted into a chapel, has a Madonna by Passerotti ; the N. Itahj. Sacristy contains, among other docu- ments, a Diploma of the Emperor Frederick II,, confirmed by a Bull of Julius II., granting to the Corret- tore de' Notari the power of creating apostolical and imperial notaries, and of legitimizing natural children. The entrance to the Archiginnasio is also under the portico. The Mercanzia (E. 6) is the best preserved example of the ornamented Italian-Gothic in the city. It was built in 129-1 of moulded brickwork, but assumed its present form in 1499 under the Bentivogli, and has been well restored. The interior contains the Exchange and the Tribunal of Commerce. On the stairs are painted, commencing from the top, the shields of the ten corpoiations of the city — Cambiatorcs, Mercanti, 3IaceUari, Mercian, Orefici, Tallegari, Bro'ppi a lana, Drappi e Strazziolari, Speziali^ and Bamhiriari — and of the Consuls of Commerce from a.d. 144:1 to 1813. A little N. of this building are the two Leaning Towers, destitute of archi- tectural attractions, but no doubt intended, like other towers and Church fronts in Italy, to be encased in marble. Their bareness is somewhat relieved by the " put-log holes," as they are termed by builders, in which the bricklayers inserted the supports of their scaffolding. The Torre Asinelli, begun in 1109 by Gherardo degli Asinelli, is of massive brickAvork, divided into three portions ; the lowest has a projecting battlement, occupied by shops ; the others di- minish upwards in their outward diameter, whilst the inner one in- creases, owing to the lesser solidity and thickness of the walls as they ascend. It is 321 ft. high, and 4 ft. out of the perpendicular. The in- clination is to the W., quite opposite to that of its neighbour. It can be ascended without danger, and com- mands an extensive view, but the visitor is not allowed to go alone. There are 449 steps, divided into flights of 10 each, between which 2 c 386 Boiite 95. — Bologna : TJnivcrsity. there are convenient landing-places. The lower stairs ascend for a short way round an axis, the remainder being ])laced against the inner walls. On the top is a kind of lantern or belfry, containing a bell only tolled on very solemn or important occasions. It does not appear that- the inclina- tion of the tower has undergone any change of late years. As to its use, there is every reason for believing that, like many others in Bologna, it was reared from family vanity. It is entered by a low door on the S. side, where the keeper will be found. The Torre Garisenda, built by the brothers Filippo and Oddo Garisenda, in 1110, is IGl ft. high, and nearly 10 ft. out of the perpendicular. Some writers have maintained that the in- clination of the Garisenda tower is the effect of art, but the courses of brick and the holes to receive the timbers of the floors are also inclined, which they Mould not have been if the tower had been built in its present form. There are remains of other similar towers in different parts of Bologna, especially two near the Archbishop's Palace, the bases of which are built of blocks of gypsum. The Cassa di Risparmio, or Savings Bank, in the Via Farini (F. 6), with its handsome wrought-iron railings, is a good specimen of modern archi- tecture. It was designed by Gins. Mengonl (1877), who built the well- known gallery at Milan, and has left several monuments of his genius in Bologna. The University (16, D. 7) is the oldest in Italy, and the first in which academical degrees were conferred. It owes its origin to Irncrius, chief of the Glossators and founder of the famous law school of Bologna, who began teaching here between 1070 and 1100. TJie great tide of scholars had set in by 1120; the University obtained recognition from the Em- peror at the diet of Koncaglia in 1158, when its " Four Doctors" were called by him to sit as assessors, and privileges granted to persons travelling for the sake of study. During the troubled period of the 1 2th cent, the fame of this University attracted students from all parts of Europe; no less than 10,000 are said to have assembled here in 1262, and it became necessary to appoint regents and professors for the students of each country. Irnerius revived the study of the Roman system of Juris- prudence, which his disciples for nearly two centuries spread over Europe, sending in 1144 to England Vacarius, one of the ablest of their body, and founder of the law school at Oxford. It was at Bologna that the Ecclesiastical Laws v/ere first collected and arranged in a convenient form, since known as the canon la"W% by the labours of Gratian, a Bene- dictine monk. The faculties of medi- cine and arts were added before the commencement of the 14tli cent. ; and Innocent VI. instituted a theological faculty some years later. In the 1 4th cent, also it acquired celebrity as the first school where dissection of the human body was practised ; and in 1789 it became renowned for the dis- covery of galvanism within its walls. This University has also been remark- able for an honour peculiarly its own — the number of its learned female professors. In the 14th cent., Novella d' Andrea, daughter of the celebrated canonist, frequently occupied her father's chair. The name of Laura Bassi, Professor of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy, is of more recent date ; she had ihe degree of Doctor of Laws, and her lectures were regularly attended by many learned ladies of France and Germany, who were mem- bers of the LTniversity. Another in- stance is that of Signora Manzolrna, who graduated in surgery and was Professor of Anatomy ; and nearer our own times (1794-1817) the Greek chair was filled by the learned Clotilda Tamhroni. At the present time the University has a staff' of .OS professors, and the number of students exceeds 1400. The noble Palace, which includes the Houte 95. — Bologna : Ohservatoru ; Library, 387 University and Library, was formerly the Palazzo Cellesi. It was built by Cardinal Poggi, the facj'ade being- designed by Pellegrino Tibaldi, and the imposing court by Bartolommeo Triacliini, a native architect of the 16th cent. It Avas purchased in 17U by the Senate of Bologna, to receive the library and the collection of natural history and scientific instru- ments presented to the city, as the foundation of a national institute, by Count Luigi Ferdinando Marsigli, the friend of Sir Isaac Newton, and a Fellow of the Royal Society of London. The Palace at first included the Academy of Sciences (Istituto delle Scienze di Bologna), founded in the 17th cent. In 18U3 the University was transferred hither. The halls of the Loggiato and the adjoining chambers are remarkable for their frescoes by Pellegrino Tibaldi and Niccolb Abbate. In the court is a statue of Hercules in grey stone, by Angelo Pio, a sculptor of some repute in the 17th cent. In the upper cor- ridors are several memorials, erected in honour of celebrated professors and others, natives of the city ; and in the lower one a handsome monument to Count Kossi, who had been professor here, assassinated at Rome in 1848. The Cabinet of Natural Philoso- phy contains some paintings by Niccolo Abbate. The Anatomical Museum is rich ; and the various branches of pathological, general, and obstetrical anatomy are well illustrated by pre- parations and wax models. The Geological Museum in an adjoining building contains a good collection of fossils of Italy, and especially of the country around — amongst the latter the head and nearly entire skeleton of a gigantic Dugong, discovered in the pliocene beds at Riota, near Pianora, on the road to Pietramala. Upon one of the walls are suspended the chains by which Count Marsigli was bound when a prisoner with the Turks. At the top of the building of the University is the Observatory, con- taining some good astronomical in- struments. The view from the ter- race of its tower is most extensive. The University Library (daily 10 to 2) contains about 17U,U(.0 printed volumes and 6000 manuscripts ; of these, not less than 20,000 volumes were presented by Benedict XIV., who also induced Cardinal Monti, another native of Bologna, to follow his patriotic example. Among the printed books is a copy of the first edition of Henry VIll.'s famous As- sertio Septem Sacramentorum adversus Martinum Lutherum : Lond. in Q^di- bus Pynsonianis, 1512, dedicated to Leo X., with the autograph signature " Henricus Rex." There are about 200 vols, of scientific MSS. by Ulysses Aldrovandi. Here the late Cardinal Mezzofanti commenced his career as librarian. He was born in 1776, the son of a small tradesman of Bologna, and be- came celebrated throughout Europe for knowledge of languages, whilst he filled the chair of professor of Greek and Oriental literature in this Uni- versity. He died at Naples in 1849. At the age of 36 Mezzofanti is said to have been able to read 20, and to con- verse fluently in 18 languages ; at the time of his death, in 1849, he spoke 42. Mezzofanti was called to Rome by Gregory XVI., and appointed to a post in the Vatican Library, under Mai ; and when that illustrious scholar was created a cardinal, Mezzofanti was raised to the same dignity. " I do not recollect," said Lord Byron, " a yingle foreign literary character that I wished to see twice, except, perhaps, Mezzo- fanti, who is a prodigy of language, a Briareus of the parts of speech, a walking library, who ought to have lived at the time of the tower of Babel, as universal interpreter ; a real miracle, and without pretension too. I tried him in all the languages of which I knew only an oath or adjura- tion of the gods against postillions, savages, pirates, boatmen, sailors, pilots, gondoliers, muleteers, camel- drivers, vetturini, postmasters, horses, and houses and everything in post ! and by Heaven ! he puzzled me iu my 2 c 2 388 Moute 95. — Bologna : Picture Galleries, etc. own idiom." A new Hall, dedicated to Mezzofanti, contains the MSS. ; among -vvliich are some interesting ones of Tasso, a nnmber of Voltaire's letters to Frederick of Prussia, letters of Metastasio,Mezzofanti's Catalogues, a number of illuminated Books of Hours, &c. In a small adjoining hall is Mezzofanti's own librarj', purchased after his death and presented to the University by Pope Pius IX. The Collegio di Spagna (F. 4) was founded in 1364, by Cardinal Albornoz (^ fr.)- The frescoes of its portico by Annihale Caracci, in his youth, have been restored. In the upper loggia is a fine fresco by BagnacavaUo, re- presenting the Holy Family, with an angel above scattering flowers, and the Cardinal founder kneeling in veneration. The Court is handsome, and there is an ornate doorway. In the Chapel is a Virgin and Child with Saints, by Marco Zoppo, and some frescoes by Lippo di Dalmasw. This is the last surviving College of a large number, which existed here in the middle ages, corresponding to those of Oxford and Cambridge. The Collegio del Fiamminghi in the Via Guerrazzi (F. 7), established for Belgian students in 1 68-2, has a portrait of the founder, by Guido Bent. The Collegio Venturoli, so called from the eminent architect of Bologna, who founded it for architectural studies in 18-25, occupies the building formerly used as the Hungarian Col- lege. The establishment is well managed, and the pupils are educated here until their 20th year. The marble bust of Venturoli is by Professor Demaria. The Botanical Garden was formed in 1804, on the site of tlie ancient Collegio Ferrerio de' Piemontesi, a practical school for agricultural stu- dents. Here stands the Pidazzino (Idla Viola, built by the Bentivogli, and now in a sadly degraded state. In the room used as a lecture-room for the agricultural students are decaying and neglected frescoes, once of much beauty, by Innocenzo da Imola, who was employed by Giovanni II. Benti- voglio to decorate his Casino with mythological subjects: Actajon trans- formed into a stag, Diana and Endy- mion, Apollo and Marsyas, &c. PICTURE GALLERIES, MUSEUMS, AND LIBRARIES. The Accademia delle Belle Arti (D. 7, S) occupies a suppressed convent of the Jesuits. On the ground-floor are several casts from ancient and mediae- val sculptures, and a statue of a Duke of Courland, who resided at Bologna, and was one of the protectors of the institution at its commencement. The *Pinacoteca, on the 1st floor, is open daily from 9 to 3 or 4 (1 fr. ; Sun. 11 to 2, free ; catalogue, 1 fr.). Some of the paintings Avere carried off by the French in 1796, and re- stored after the peace of Paris in 1815. Besides liaffaeJ's St. Cecilia, the great boast of the Gallery, this Col- lection includes some good Avorks by Francia, Cossa, and Timoteo delta Vite; the majority of its examples, however, being of the later Bolognese School. Agostino Caracci : Assumption. — *Communion of St. Jei'ome, his most important picture. AJhani : Baptism of Christ. Annihale Caracci: Annunciation. — *Virgin and Children, with SS. Catharine and John Evan. ; " the first recalling Paolo Veronese, the second Correqgio, the third Parmigianino, and the last Titian." — K. BagnacavaUo : INIarriage of St. Catharine. — Holy Family, with SS. Paul, Benedict, and Mary Magdalene. Bugiardini : Virgin and Child. — St. John in the Wilderness. — Mar- riage of St. Catharine. Calvaert : me tangere. Caravaggior Judith. Cavedone : * Virgin and Child ap- pearing to SS. Petronius and Eloy. Chiodarolo: Nativity; in the opinion I Boute 95. — Bologna : Pinacoteca. 389 of Morelli, a studio-picture of Lor. Costa. Cignani : Samson and Delilah. Cima da Conegliano : * Virgin and Child. Cossa: * Virgin and Child, with SS. Petrouius and John Evan., and a donor (1474) — "siiowing great power and originality, the heads grand, massive, and finely modelled, the draperies broad and well disposed, the architectural decorations executed with much mas- tery."— X. Costa (Lor.) : *Virgin and Child, with SS. James and Sebastian (1491). — Marriage of the Virgin (15U5). — SS. Petronius, Francis, and Thomas Aquinas (1502). — * Virgin and Child, with SS. Petronius and Thecla (1496). Cotignola : Marriage of the Virgin. Bomenichino : Death of Peter Mar- tyr, painted for two nuns of the Spada family. " Even Domenichino, usuall)' so mild and delicate, what a butcher he becomes in some circumstances ! .... the death of S. Pietro Martire is only a new edition of that of Titian," Cic. — Martyrdom of St. Agnes. " The stabbing on the pile of wood, with its accessories, makes the harshest possible contrast with all the violin-playing, flute-blowing, and harping of the angelic group above," Cic. — Madonna of the Kosary, with St. Dominic, Angels carrying emblems, a Pope and several figures beneath ; it was carried to Paris. The two children in the foreground are worthy of special remark. " His great altar-pieces, gathered together in the Gallery of Bologna, contain little more than theatrical attitudes." — K. Dosso Dossi : Virgin and Child, with Angels. Francia (Fr.) : Annunciation, with SS. John Bapt. and Jerome. — Cruci- fixion, with the Virgin and Mary Magdalene, St. Jerome, and St. John the Evangelist.' — *Virgin and Child, with SS. Augustine, Francis, John the Baptist, Sebastian, Proculus, and Monica (U94), his earliest work. " The most Peruginesque of all his works, splendidly painted," Cic. It was executed for B. Felicini, and is said to have procured for the painter the patronage of the Bentivogli. — *Nativity (1499), with angels and saints ; the Knight of Malta kneeling is Antonio Bentivoglio ; the Shepherd, Pandolfo Cassio, a ricli jeweller and poet, and a friend of the painter. — Madonna and Child between SS. George, John the Baptist, Stephen, and Augustine, with an angel bearing' a lily. — Virgin and Child, with SS. Peter, late. — Virgin and Children, with SS. Paul and Francis. — Annunciation, with SS. John the Evangelist, Francis, Bernardino, and George (1500). — Pieta, with two angels. — Virgin and Child, with the Adoration of the Shepherds and the Crucifixion. — Two Niello works, Crucifixion and Resur- rection. Francia (Giac.) : Virgin and Child, with SS. John Bapt., Paul, and Mary Magd. Francia (Giac. and Giulio') : Virgin and Child with SS. Peter, Francis, and Mary Magd. (152G), his master- piece. " Inspired indeed not by his father, but by the Venetians, and therefore free from sentimentality," Cic. Garofalo : Holy Family. Gessi: St. Francis receiving the Stigmata. Gherardo Fiorentino: Marriage of St. Catharine, where Christ is a full- grown man and St. Catharine wears a nun's dress. Giotto: *SS. Peter and Paul, with the archangels Michael and Gabriel — the wings of an altar-piece at the Brera, of doubtful authenticity. Giov. Gius. dal Sole: S. M. Mag- dalene. Guercino : *The Virgin appearing to S. Bruno in the desert, from the Certosa ; it was carried to Paris. " One of his most attractive works," Cic.—*St. William of Aquitaine re- ceiving the religious habit from St. Felix, with the Madonna above, and SS. Philip and James ; formerly at S. Gregorio, from which it was removed to Paris in 1796. Guido Reni: *Drawing in Chalk for the Ecce Homo. — S. Sebastian. — ■ * Samson, after having vanquished the Philistines. Painted for Cardinal 390 Boiite 95. — Bologna: Pinacofeca. Ludovisi, to be placed over a cliimney, ■which will explain its unusual form : on his death, the Cardinal beijueathed it to his native town, where it long formed one of the ornaments of the Senatorial Palace. — Crucifixion, with the Madonna and St. John. " The Virgin is a figure of solemn beauty, one of his finest and most dignified creations." — K. — *S. Andrea Corsini. — Coronation of the Virgin. — *Ma- donna del Rosario, painted on silk (1030) as a Church banner, to be carried in processions in the time of plague or any puldic calamity. Below are the Protecting Saints of Bologna. — Stud}^ of a Head. — Madonna della Pieia, with SS. Petronius, Carlo Bor- romeo, Dominic, Francis, and Proculus (1G16), and beneath them a bird's-eye view of the city with its towers. This picture "owes its strongest effect to the symmetrical construction of the lower as well as of the upper group .... unfortunately Guido had not the courage to transfer this scene, like Kaphael his Transfiguration, into a distinct upper space, arranged for a second point of view (as on a hill) ; but gives it as if painted on a tapestry hanging above the kneeling saints," Cic. This painting was executed in 16lfi for the municipality, who were so pleased with it, that, in addition to the price agreed upon, they bestowed a gold chain and a medal of gratitude on the artist. — *Massacre of tlie Inno- cents. " The female figures are beautiful, and the composition very animated ; but the feeling for mere abstract beauty is too apparent." — K. Hugo van der Goes : Madonna in a Garden. Jacopo degli Avanzl : Altar-pieces, " showing great exaggeration and feebleness." —K. Innocenzo da Imola : Virgin and Child, with SS. Michael, Peter, and Felix. — Madonna and Children, with St. Francis and Sta. Clara — "freely executed in the Eaffaelesque spirit," Cic. Lodovico Caracci : Birth of John the Baptist, " with much that is attrac- tive in the truth and artlessness of some portions." — 7v. "A late reso- lute grand picture," Cic. The por- trait to the rt. is of Monsignore Ratta, who had the painting executed for a monastery. — *Virgin and Child, Avith SS. Dominic, Francis, Clara, and Mary Magdalene ; portraits of the Bargellini family. — Conversion of St. Paul. — Transfiguration. — * Virgin and Child, with SS. Jerome and Francis, " painted with peculiar grace, and with a happy imitation of the chiaro- scuro of Correggio." — K. Luca Giordano : Pieta. Lucas van Leyden : History of Esther. Marco Zoppo : S. ApoUonia ; attri- buted by Morelli to Galasso Galassi. Mazzolino : Nativity. Mengs : Portrait of Clement XIII., " grander, truer, less pretentious, than any Italian portrait of the century," Cic. Niccolb da Cremona : Entombment. Niccolb da Foligno : A remarkable altar-shrine (1482), on both sides of the same piece of wood : in front, the Madonna between saints ; on the back the Annunciation, all on gold ground. It comes from Arcevia, in the March of Ancona, and was presented to the Academy by Pius IX. Parmegianino : Virgin and Child with SS. Margaret, Augustine, and Jerome. Perugino: * Virgin and Child, with SS. Michael, John, Catharine, and Apollonia. This picture formed part of the French spoils in 1796. " It belongs to Perugino's fine time ; the arrangement of the group of the Virgin and Child is very charming and original ; condition excellent." — C. and C. Pontormo : Virgin and Child. PeUegrino Tihaldi : Marriage of St. Catharine — " distinguished by an un- affected grace and an expression of earnest feeling." — K. Primaiiccio : Concert. Prospero Fontana : Entombment. Quentin Matsys : Moneychangers. liuffael: *St. Cecilia in Ecstasy on hearing the heavenly music of the Angels, surrounded by SS. Paul, John the Evangelist, Augustine, and jNIarv Magdalene. "The head Boufe 95. — Bologna: Arcltiginnasio. 391 turned up towards heaven, with a beautiful pensive countenance, having an expression of concentrated and exalted feeling, .... is deeply and touchingly impressive ; .... St. Paul, a superb dignified figure, fills one cor- ner ; St. John, drawn with a greater expression of simplicity and delicacy of form, is next to him ; St. Augus- tine, another grand figure, and iNIary Magdalene, like sister of the heaven- devoted Cecilia, stand close by her. .... Musical instruments, scattered on the foreground, fill it up, but with- out attracting the eye; a heavy cloudy sky forms the horizon, while high in the heavens a choir of angels, touched with the softest tints, is indistinctly seen." — Bell. "On the earth lie the worldly musical instruments, half broken, unstringed, even the pious organ falls out of the hands of the saints ; all are listening to the choir of angels, only indicated in the air above. Kaphael gave song to this wonderfully improvised upper group, whose victory over instruments is here substituted for the conquest, itself im- possible to represent, of heavenly tones over the earthly, with a symbolism worthy of all admiration," Cic. The lower part of the picture is supposed to have been painted by Raphael's scholar, Giov. da Udine. This beau- tiful picture was painted about 1515, for the Lady Elena dall' Olio, after- wards beatified, and long stood over the altar of the Bentivoglio chapel at San Giovanni in Monte. It was re- moved by the French, and remained in Paris till 1815. It is tolerably pre- served and restored, with the excep- tion of the coarsely over-painted sky. Rubens : Angels. Seghers : Flowers. Simone da Bologna : Altar-piece. Snyder s : Hunting Scenes. Tiarini : Marriage of St. Catharine, in the presence of SS. Joseph and Margaret. — Entombment. P ' Timoteo della Vite : *St. Mary Mag- dalene — " Grace and refinement com- bined with a naive and touching sentiment." — K. Tintoretto : Visitation. Vasari: Gregory I. (1540) enter- taining twelve poor Pilgrims, amongst whom Our Saviour, as we are told by the church legend, appeared as the 13th. This painting, exe- cuted for the Convent of S. Michele in Bosco, is chiefly interesting for the portraits of several of the artist's con- temporaries and patrons: Clement VII. as St, Gregory, Duke Alessandro de' Medici, &c., and even the butler of the convent. Vitcde: Virgin and Child (1320). Vivarini{Ant. audBart.): Madonna, with saints (14.o0) ; the frame carved by Cristoforo da Ferrara. " One of the most tasteful combinations of architectural carving and panel paint- ing that the period produced." — C. and a The Archiginnasio (1 8 F. 5) occupies the E. side of the Piazza Galvani. (Daily 8 to 5 ; fee to the civil and in- telligent custodian, and to the porter.) It was built as a University for S. Carlo Borromeo in 1562, by Terrihilia, and consists of a handsome Court sur- rounded by a Doric portico below, and an Ionic loggia above. The pro- fessors had previously taught in hired Class Ivooms, there being no University buildings. In this Court is the entrance to the small chapel of S. M. dei Bulgari, which has its walls and ceilings covered with frescoes chiefly relating to the Virgin, by Bartolommeo Cesi (1590). Under the portico, and in the loggie above, are several interesting memo- rials of deceased professors : the physician Muratori, by his daughter Teresa ; the celebrated anatomist Malpighi, by Francescliinl ; Valsalva, also a celebrated anatomist, with his bust in relief; Mariani, by Carlo Cignani ; and the philosopher Sbara- glia, by Donato Gretl. All the halls, galleries, and loggie are decorated with the coats of arms of the students of the ancient university, forming a curious and not unpleasing kind of decoration ; there are about 6000 of these escutcheons, with the names and country of their owners. The entrance to the Public Library, 392 lloute 95. — Bologna : Museo Civico. or Bihliotica Comunale (11 to 4), is from the upper loggia. The Library ■was formed in UOl out of the spoils of suppressed Con vents, and its first home was at San Domenico. In 1811 it was enriched by a legacy from the learned Abate Magnani, a native of the city, and was moved hither in 1839. It now contains about 200,000 vols., in a series of halls with a length of 200 yds. The bust of Mezzofanti is seen over a door. In the last room was given the first representation of Rossini's Stabat Mater. It contains an interesting model of the Teairo Comunale as first arranged, without a pit or any place for the people. The *Museo Civico (22 E. 5), a very interesting and well-arranged museum, contains all the antiquarian collections formerly in tlie Archiginnasio (10 to 3, 1 fr. ; Sun., 50 c). The Entrance Hall contains Roman tombs, a well-mouth, and a Statue, Opening out of it on the rt. is a small room with remains of capitals and pavements, and another on the 1. with fragments of terra-cotta. The taste- fully arranged Court is surrounded with inscriptions, among which is that belonging to the sacred well, which gave rise to the commentary of Paciaudi on the '' Puteus Sacer " ; milestones from the Via iEmilia, numbered CC. and CCCXXVI.; fragments of latercoU, or military registers; and a large number of sepulchral tablets. Beyond this is another room with architectural re- mains of the mediicval period. On the upper floor, reached by a staircase at the end of the Court, is the jNIuseuji, divided into two sections, Ancient and Mediaeval. Room I. Bones, flints, vases, bronze weapons, and otlier relics of primitive dwellers in caves, or in the terramare, or lake-huts, of the submerged plains of Emilia, Rooms II. -V. Egyptian Antiquities, collected chiefly by Nizzoli, Austrian Consul in Egypt, from whom they were purchased in 1832 by Palagi, the archi- tect of the Royal Palaces under Carlo Alberto, who bequeathed them to his native city. Amongst the papyri on the walls is one written by the secre- tary of Raniesis tlie Great (Sesostris) about 3300 years ago, in the hieratic character. It relates to a slave who had run away from the prophet Ranie- son. Another papyrus, also in hier- atics, is of the time of Meuephtha I., and is consequently about 3200 years old. Here is a mummy case of wood, about 2200 years old. It is of the rare waggon-topped form, and is co- vered with prayers in hieroglyphics. In the centre of Room 111. is a lime- stone Pastoforus (box-carrier), of the Egyptian Triad Osiris, Iris, and Horus, held by a Naos or priest. There are several stelaj with reliefs; and many small articles, such as neck- laces and scarabtci. The collection of bronze statuettes of divinities is said to be the richest in Italy. Room VI. GreeJ: Antiquities, in- cluding a fine *Head of a youth, gold ornaments, Attic vases, glass, and statuettes in marble. — Room VII. Roman sculptures, chiefly heads or fragments of statues. Nero with a cloak and sword. Head of Marciana, of Lucius Verus, and of an unknown female. Room VIII. Etruscan Antiquities, including eight vases from Vulci of the form called 2^etachnon, all in the purest style. One with red figures on a black ground, representing Codrus and his friend Ainetos, is unusually fine. Black ware of Chiusi ; Greek vases found in Etruria, one with the name of the maker, Nikosthenes. Five lecytlioi with white bodies are not to be matched elsewhere in Italy. Here also is a fragment of an *engraved plate, or, according to Chev. Inghi- rami, of a mystic mirror, called, from the name of its first possessor, the Cospiana Patera. It represents the birth of INIinerva, who issues armed from the head of Jupiter, while Venus is caressing him. The names of the figures are in Etruscan characters. Another mirror represents, but in relief, Philoctetes healed by Machaon, Boute 95. — Bologna : Museo C< ivico. 393 •whose names are also in ^Etruscan characters. Eoo3i IX. Roman Antiquities. Fragment of an imperial Statue, with relief of women riding on sea-horse, and other devices, on the armour — the folds of the tunic most elaborately carved. Bronze statuettes, terra- cotta lamps, objects in glass, and various domestic utensils. A semi- colossal bronze foot and a Bacchic vase in'marble, both found in the island of Capri ; a series of Roman weights in black stone, and some metal vv'eights of the middle ages, among which is one of the time of Charlemagne, with the inscription *' Pondus Caroli.'" Two fragments of marble torsi, the one of Venus coming out of the bath, the other of the same goddess standing; a male torso, attributed to Augustus, found in the Via S. Mamolo ; an Isiac table of black basalt, found on the Aventinein 1709, and an elliptical vase of porphyry. Room X. Here are the ^results of the excavations which have been going on near Bologna since 1870. An Etruscan cemetery, of ancient Felsina, was discovered 25 ft. below the modern Campo Santo, and the articles brought to light are most interesting. The tombstones are of two forms, one upright and oval, or shaped like the last letter of the Greek alphabet, n. These are covered with symbolic re- liefs on both sides ; the other spheri- cal, mounted on a quadrangular foot. Amongst the numerous objects found in this ancient cemetery, which is thought to date from 3U0 to 500 years B.C., perhaps the most interesting is a pail-shaped vessel of bronze, in which were found burned bones, the exterior being covered with curious figures in relief, and arranged in four circles round the vessel. Bronze candelabra, not for lamps, but furnished with spikes, to which the brands were attached; necklaces of glass beads, gold tinger-rings and ear-rings, gold bracelets, and fibulae in gold, silver, and bronze, are amongst the articles here exhibited. The earthenware vases were much broken. In glass cases are models of the tombs, where the skeletons and objects found therein are shown in situ, with the bronze cistse, dishes, &c., and the piece of money to pay the passenger's fare to Charon. Near the third window is a unique bronze vessel (situla) of B.C. 400, covered witli reliefs repre- senting a procession in which the civil, military, and pontifical dignita- ries of Felsina are taking part. On the walls of the rooms are suspended photographs which explain the posi- tion of tlie tombs and other circum- stances. About 250 tombs have been found with skeletons, and 120 with bronze or earthenware vessels ; the number of unburnt bodies would seem to exceed those burnt. Room XI. Bronze articles, nearly 15,000 in number, found in 1877 by the Church of S. Francesco. We now enter the media3val and modern section. — RoojiXII. Weapons and armour, including some which belonged to Murat. — Room XIII. Majolica jars, from Faenza, Fano, Pesaro, and Peru. — Room XIV. Limoges enamels, ivories, musical instruments. Very beautiful *ivory and ebony vase and dish 2 ft. in diameter. — Room XV. Mediaeval and Renaissance Sculptures, reliefs, and medals, several of which bear inter- esting portraits. Ancient Roman coins, Greek ones from Sicily, a col- lection of Italian and foreign moneys, and a good series of modern medals of sovereigns and illustrious men. There is also a small collection of gems, among which is the MafFei agate, representing Achilles and Ulysses. Ancona on gold ground (No. 194) in the last room — Virgin and Child, with SS. Paul, John Bapt., Peter, and James. — Room XVI. Bronze Statue of Boniface VIII. (1301); altar-frontal of the 14th cent. ; group of the Nativity; bells, crosses; *Tomb of Bart, da Saliceto, by Andrea da Fiesole (1403). —Room XVII. Collection of *Choir books and miniatures, with embroidery and vestments, extremely interesting. On the ground-floor of the Museum 394 lloute 95. — Bolugna : Private Mansions, etc. are the Archives {Arcldvio di Stato), established in 1875. (Entrance in the Yia Foscherari ; adm. free, on applica- tion to the learned and obliging director, Prof. Malagola.) Among other treasures it contains the ]^ulla Aurea, Avith autographs of Pope Eugenius IV. and the Emp. John PaUicologus, who presented it to the 131essed Niccolo degli Albergati, Abp. of Bologna. It gives the proceedings of the Council of Florence in 1489, which liealed for a time the schism of the East and the West, and at which the above-mentioned dignitary pre- sided as papal legate. Here also are the Eotoli, or University records, with splendid illuminations. One ofthe most curious of the antiqui- ties of Bologna is the celebrated Latin inscription discovered in some excava- tions of the city. This famous riddle, which gave rise to so much learned controversy in the 17th cent., is as follows : — " D. M. iELIA L^LIA Crispis, nee vir, nee mvlier, nee an- drogyna, nee pvella, nee jvvenis, nee anvs, nee casta, nee meretrix, nee pvdica, sed omnia ; svblata neqve fame, neqve ferro, neqve veneno, sed omnibvs ; nee ccelo, nee aqvis, nee terris, sed vbique jacet. Lvcivs Agatho Priscivs, nee maritvs, nee amator, nee necessarivs, neqve moe- reus, neqve gavdens, neqve flens, banc iiec molem, nee pyramidem, nee sepvl- chrvm, sed omnia, scit et nescit cvi posverit." PRIVATE MANSIONS AND REMARKABLE HOUSES. The Palaces of Bologna are nume- rous, but the works of art which for- merly gave them celebrity are gradu- ally disappearing. Their frescoes, however, like their architecture, can- not be exported ; and in both these respects there is much to engage the attention of the traveller. They generally consist of a portico in front, opening by a handsome portal into a court of three sides, the fourth being left open to admit light and air. Palazzo Albergati (F. G. 3) is a good example of the architecture of Baldassare Periizzi (1540). Beneath it some foundations of Eoman baths have been discovered. Palazzo Arcivescovile, N.E. of the Cathedral, the residence of the arch- bishop, was built in 1577 by Tibaldi, and has been restored and decorated with considerable taste at the cost of the Card. Abp. Oppizzoni. The apartments are painted by the most eminent artists of Bologna. Palazzo Baciocchi (G. 5) is now occupied by law-courts, and called Pal. di Ghistizia. The principal front is by Palladio,hy whom some of the other details were probably designed. This was the residence of Elisa, sister of Napoleon I. The grand hall is ornamented by Bihbiena. Palazzo Bentivoglio (D. G, 7) has been frequently the residence of sovereign princes during their visits to Bologna ; it recalls the magnificence of the ancient palace of the Benti- vogli, destroyed in 1507 by the popu- lace at the instigation of Julius II., who adopted this mode of revenging himself on his great rival Aunibale Bentivoglio. *Palazzo Bevilacqua Vincenzi (F. 5) is attributed to Bramantino. The front is a fine specimen of the Dia- mond Rustic style, surmounted by a good cornice, with two handsome round-headed gateways, over one of which is a balcony. The court is surrounded by a double colonnade. In the centre is a curious *Fountain. In one of the chambers is an inscrip- tion recording that the Council of Trent held two sessions here in 154-7, having removed to Bologna for fear of contagion. Palazzo de' BiancM, in the Via S. Stefano (G. H. 7), has a fine ceiling by Guido Eeni, representing the Har- pies infesting the tables of ^neas. Palazzo Bolognini (1525), opposite Boute 95. — Bologna: Palaces. 395 S. Stefano, has a front with three rows of terra-cotta heads, by Alfonso Lom- hardo, the lowest being between the arches of the portico. On the other side of this piazza there are some dilapidated houses, which show traces of former splendour in their terra-cotta and brick-M'ork. Palazzo Boncompagni Ludovisi, N.E. side of the cathedral (D. 6), was built by Gregory XIII., a native of Bologna (1545), and has been restored. The upper part of the columns of the entrance are covered with elegant arabesque reliefs, and in the cortile there are some similar columns. There are some paintings in the great ante- room on the 1st floor, of events during the Pope's pontificate. This palace belongs to the head of the Boncom- pagni family, the Roman Prince of Piombino. Palazzo Fantuzzi (now Pedrazzi), opposite the Church of S. Vitale (E, 7), was built early in the last cent., from the designs of Andrea Formigine. At each extremity is an elephant with a castle on its back, the canting arms of the first owners. Within is a hand- some staircase. Palazzo Fava, opposite the Madonna di Galliera (D. 5), is rich in frescoes by the Caracci. The great hall con- tains the first *fresco painted by Agos- tino and Annibale, under the direction of Lodovico, after their return from Parma and Venice : it represents, in a series of 18 pictures, the Expedition of Jason, and is one of the most in- teresting examples of the Eclectic School. The small chamber adjoiniug is painted by Lodovico, who has repre- sented the Voyage of ^neas in 12 pictures. The next chamber is painted by Alhani, with the assistance of Lodovico Caracci : it presents 16 sub- jects, also from the JEneid. The chamber beyond was painted by Lucio Massari, and the rest by other pupils, the last room being by Cesi ; subjects of the ^ueid prevail throughout the whole. The paintings of a cabinet representing the Rape of Europa are by Annibale Caracci. Palazzo Grassi, W. of S. Martino (D. 6), has a fresco by Lodovico Caracci, representing Hercules armed with a flambeau, treacling on the Hydra ; and some curious cameos by Properzia cW JRossi, engraved on peach-stones, and illustrating events of Scripture history. Palazzo Magnani Guidotti, nearly opposite S. Giacomo (D. 6), an im- posing design of Domenico Tihaldi, is celebrated for its frescoes by the three Caracci, representing the history of Romulus and Remus, and not inferior either in composition or colour to those in the Farnese Palace. Adjacent is the Palazzo Malvezzi Campeggi, with a fine court ; and neai'ly opposite, the Palazzo Malvezzi Bonfioli, a fine specimen of palace architecture, by Vignola. In its second court are frescoes illustrating the Gerusalemme Liberata, by Lionello Spada. Palazzo Malvezzi Campeggi, in the Via Zamboni, contains some tapestries from designs of Lucas van Leyden, presented by Hen. VIII. to Card. Campeggi, papal legate in England. Palazzo Marescalchi, W. of the Palazzo Comunale (E. 4), was built by Dom. Tihaldi in 1572. It contains some frescoes by the Caracci, Guide Beni, and Tihaldi. Palazzo Marescotti, in the Via Ro- landino, near San Domenico, is a good specimen of the domestic architecture of the IGth cent. ; it is in brick, and has some tasteful windows in moulded terra cotta. Palazzo Pepoli, in the Via Casti- glione (F. 6), a huge brick edifice, now greatly dilapidated, is inhabited by numerous families. It was erected in 1344, and is still the property of the Pepoli family ; it has more the appearance of a castle than a palace, ;90 Boute 95. — Bologna : Palaces. from its high wall, suraioanted by niachicolated defences. Facing the street are three good pointed gateways in decorated terra-cotta. On the oppo- side of the street is another large Palace of the same name, built in the be- ginning of the last cent,, occupying the site of the ancient palace of the great captain Taddeo Pepoli. It is the present residence of the Pepoli family. Palazzo Eanuzzi, in the Via S. Stefano (G. 7), built from the designs of Bart. Triachini, is interesting for its paintings by IBolognese masters prior to the Caracci : those on the ceiling of the upper hall by Tommaso Laurdti, the Virtues by Lorenzo Sab- hatini, the Fall of Icarus by Orazio Sammachlni, and the death of Hercules by Tihaldi. Palazzo Sampieri (adm. J fr.), S.E. of San liartolomraeo (E. 6), was cele- brated for its pictures, most of which are now in the Brera Gallery. In the 2nd hall the ceiling, painted by Lodovico Caracci, represents *Jupiter with the Eagle and Hercules ; " in form, dignity of feature, and mag- nificence of character," says John Bell, "finely suited to harmonize as a group. The muscular figure and gigantic bulk of Hercules is imposing without extravagance ; a perfect ac- quaintance with the human figure is displayed, with admirable foreshort- ening and great skill and boldness in composition and execution." The ord hall has a ceiling by Annihale Caracci, representing Hercules instructed by Virtue. The ceiling of the 4th hall, by Agostino Caracci, represents Hercules and Atlas supporting the Globe. The chimneypiece of this hall, by the same master, represents Hercules holding down Cacus, preparing to pierce him with the sharp end of his club. In the 5th hall, the ceiling, representing Hercules strangling Antceus, is by Guercino. " A superb piece, with fine deep-toned colouring, and wonderful power of chiaroscuro. The figure of Hercules is very grand, but seems to have occupied rather too much of the artist's care. Antaeus is wanting in vigour ; the resisting arm is not drawn with force or bulk corresponding to the action ; neither are the figures sufficiently connected. But the whole piece is a work of great vigour and unquestionable merit. In one of the accompanying ornaments of the ceiling of the next room there is a beautiful little painting by Guercino, of Love (I think it should have been Ganymede) carrrying off the spoils of Hercules, the skin of the Xemean lion, and the cub. The motto under it is ' Iter ad superos gloria pandet,' " — Bell. There is in tliis room also a good picture by Salvcdor Bom. Palazzo S. Paolo, nearly opposite the Church (F. 5), has on its entrance-door two bronze lion-headed knockers by Giovanni Bologna. Remarkable Houses. — The Casa Rossini, adjoining the Palazzo Sam- pieri (E. 7), was built in 1825 by the late great " Maestro," who resided here until the Austrian occupation, when he voluntarily removed to Flo- rence, and subsequently to Paris, where he died in Nov. 186S. It is covered with Latin inscriptions in large gold letters, taken chiefly from classic writers. The Caracci are said to have inha- bited the Pal. Marescotti. Guercino, during his residence at Bologna, lived in the small piazza behind S. Niccolo (D. 3). The house of Guido Reni has a fresco of two angels holding a crown, painted by him, on the exterior. The house in which Galvani, the discoverer of that species of electricity to which he has given his name, was born (1737), is in the Borgodelle Casse, No. 1347 ; over the door is the following inscription : — Galvanum excepi natum luxique peremptum Ciyus ab invento juuctus uterque polua. He resided in the Via LTgo Bassi, op- posite the Hotel Brun. Benedict XIV. v/as born in the Casa Lambertini, in Boiite 95. — Bologna : Theatres : Hospitals, Environs. 397 the Via della Campagna, leading out of the Via San Donato (E. 6). THEATRES, AMUSEMENTS, ETC. Teatro Comunale (19 D. 7) -was built in 175G, on the site of the an- cient palace of Giovanni II. Benti- voglio, destroyed by the populace at the instigation of Pope Julius II. in 1507. During the entire interval the ruins lay there under the name of 11 Guasto (\^antonly spoilt), of which the Via del Guasto, to the rt., is a survival. Many other ruined man- sions, similarly destroyed, bore the same generic name. The curtain, representing the Apotheosis of Felsina or Bononia, is by N.Angiolini. There is a good opera here in Oct., Nov., and Dec. Teatro Contavalli (D. 6), erected in 1814, is a part of the suppressed Car- melite] convent of S. Martino. The old convent stairs serve for the^ ap- proach to the modern theatre. Per- formances generally in Bolognese dialect. Teatro del Corso, E. of S. Giovanni in Monte (F. 7), built in 1805, is one of the most popular places of amuse- ment in the city. Teatro Brunetti, in a side street leading out of the Via Castiglione (G. 6). Arena del Sole, W. of the Via Gal- liera (C. 5), for open-air entertain- ments. GiuGCO del Pallone— a kind of tennis — is played occasionally by profes- sionals in a Court near the Montagnola. A small sum is charged for admission, and the performances are advertised. The Club Falsineo has rooms in the Palazzo Bolognini, near S. Stefano, but strangers are not admitted, unless introduced by resident friends. The Accademia Filarmonica, No. fi 1 4, Via Guerrazzi (F. 7), and the Liceo FUarmonico, in the convent of S. Giacomo, have acquired a European reputation . The Academy was founded by Vincenzo Carrati, in 1666, and has numbered among its members the most eminent professors of the last 200 years. The Lyceum, founded in 1 805, by the municipality, as a school of music, is enriched with the un- rivalled musical library and collec- tions of the celebrated Padre Martini. The library contains 17,000 volumes of printed music, and the finest col- lection of ancient manuscript music in existence. There is an interesting collection of portraits of professors and dilettanti, another of antique instru- ments, and a fine series of choir-books with miniatures. HOSPITALS. The Ospedale Maggiore, founded in 1667, but not opened until 1725, has about 500 students. There is a large collection of anatomical figures, but it is inferior to that at Florence. The clinical cases are received in the Clinica di 8. Or sola, just outside the Porta Zamboni (C. 8, 9). In the Borgo S. Giuseppe is the Ospedale de' Settua- genari, and in the ancient Benedictine monastery of S. Procolo is the Ospedale degli Esposti, for foundlings, recently enlarged. ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA. Not far beyond the Porta San Fe- lice (C. 1) is the old Well, where the famous capture of the Bucket took place, by the Modenese in 1325. A commemorative tablet with an inscrip- tion has been set up here. In the opposite direction, beyond the Porta Mazzini (F. 9), is the Portico degli Scalzi, 570 yds. long, with 167 arches, leading to the Church of Gli Scalzi, where are some indifferent paintings of the Bolognese school. The Madonna di Mezzaratta, reached by a steep ascent of j hr. out- side the PoHa Azeglio (H. 4), was built in HOG, and was formerly one of 398 JRoiite 95. — Bologna: Campo Santo. tlie depositories of sacred Italian art. Having been purchased by Cav. Min- ghetti, it now serves as a library, and is inaccessible. The frescoes attri- ])uted to Jacopo Avanzi, Galasso Ga- lia.^i, Simons da Bolor/na, and other early artists of the Bolognese school, are interesting as its earliest eiforts, and are described at length in Lord Lindsay's ' Christian Art.' The ' Stations ' on the ascent lead to the (1 m.) Osservanza, a Franciscan Convent commanding a fine view. In this direction runs the aqueduct (1881), an underground conduit of masonry, 18 miles long, which brings water from the River Reno near Sasso (Rte. 107). Close to the Chapel is the Villa Mezzaratta, with a pleasant chestnut grove, which may be visited by permission of Mr. Frank at the Hotel Brun. In the neighbouring hills are extensive Vineyards, belong- ing to the same proprietor. IjL^yond the Porta Castiglione is the Church of the Misericordia (H. «7), ruined in the wars of the 15th cent., partly rebuilt with little regard to the original plan, and now badly restored. At the 2nd altar is a fresco on canvas of the Madonna della Consolazione, by Lippo di Dahnasio ; *glass in the r()und window designed by Francia. 4th chapel, another good window, by the same artist ; in the choir, an un- important Adoration of the Shepherds in a handsome old frame, which for- merly enclosed a Nativity of the Vir- gin by Francia, now in the Pina- coteca. In the 1. transept, the Taber- nacle, supported by the four Doctors of the Church, is carved in cypress wood by Marco Tedesco of Cremona (17th cent.), who also executed the ornaments of the organ and singing- gallery. End of 1. aisle, on a pillar, fresco of a Bp. and four monks, School oi Francia ; 2n(l altar 1., Madonna and two Saints, by BagnacavaUo. A pleasant drive of 2 hrs., command- ing magnificent views, may be taken through the Giardini Margherita (p. 370) by the Villa Frcolani and Monte Donato to the Villa Giiastavil- lani, re-entering Bologna by the Porta Citstiglioue. CA3IPO SANTO, OR PUBLIC CEMETERY. About 1^ m. from the gate of S. Isaia (E. 2) is the ancient Certosa, built in 133.5 by Carthusian monks, suppressed in 1797, and consecrated in 1801 as the Public Cemetery. It was one of the first acts of the govern- ment of Napoleon to forbid the burial of the dead within the city. Sepa- rate enclosures are set apart for Pro- testants, Jews, and ecclesiastics, in- cluding monastic individuals of both sexes. The Campo Santo occupies the site of an old Etruscan Burial- ground, discovered in 1869, which has yielded so many interesting objects, now in the Museo Civico. (Fee, ^ to 1 fr., according to length of visit.) The Churcli contains, in the 1st chapel on the rt., S. Bruno, by Cesi. On the 1. near the entrance is a relief of SS. Hugh of Lincoln and Jerome. On the 1,, Baptism of Christ, by Eliza- hetta Sirani, painted in her 20th year (1658), with her portrait. The ^lira- culous Draught of Fishes, Christ driving the Money-changers from the Temple, and four Carthusian Saints, on the wall, rt. and 1., were the last works of Gessi. At the high altar, the Crucifixion, Christ in the Garden, and the Deposition, by Cesi. In an inner chapel, the Annunciation, by Cesi; Christ bearing the Cross, a half-length in fresco, by Lodovico Caracci ; and S. Bernardino in fresco, by Amico Aspertini. There are some good inlaid Stalls. The *Campo Santo consists mainly of the two spacious cloisters of the convent, whose large area is occupied by the graves of the poorer classes unable to pay for a privileged site under the arcades. In the large cloister are interred adults, the men on one side, females on the other; and in the smaller one children only. There is a separate walled-in space, destined as the last resting-place of our Protestant countrymen, and of all creeds not Roman Catholic. In the small court beyond the Monte 95. — Bologna : Madonna di San Luca. 399 entrance-hall arel the recumbent effigies in white and Istrian marble of Francesco Albergati and Sigis- mondo Malvezzi (1517), with beautiful arabesques ; the monument of the Pro- thonotary Albergati (1533); and that of Alessaudro Zambeccari (1571), Avith a statue in armour, most ela- borately carved (end of the 16th cent.). Between the Protonotario Albergati and the Malvezzi monu- ments is a large shell in fresco, which at a little distance appears like sculpture. A kind of Pantheon has been formed for the professors of the Uni- versity, and their busts (including those of Mezzofanti, Galvani, and others) are placed in a spacious hall. Statue of Eve, with a serpent in the form of a woman, and a Virgin and Child opposite in relief, to complete the allegory, by Prof. Cincinnati Baruzzi, last scholar of Canova. The corridor was designed by Mengoni (see Cassia di Risparmio). At the end of it, Marchese Bevilacqua ; farther on, Young Student, both sit- ting statues. Marchese Angelelli, Prof, of Greek in the University ; above is a statue of Minerva, as Edu- cator of youth. In the Cloister, tomb of Conte Malvezzi, with two *beau- tiful columns of Astracane marble, from a demolished Chapel in his Palace. Pallavicini monument, by Dupre. Kelief of Ivossini's first wife, by Thoricaldsen. Continuing to the 1., we pass the Maiani monument, with a weeping girl ; between the two cloisters Gen. Grabinski, with a statue holding a flag and sword; further on in the next corridor, Murat, King of Naples, in hussar uniform ; and the brothers Pepoli, where the Saviour is repre- sented as receiving their spirits. Beyond, the Pallavicini monument, having an angel with expanded wings. In the smaller Cloister, lovely relief of three Minghetti Children, who died in the same year. Next but one to it is a cleverly sculptured veil over a woman's face, represent- ing Eternity. Near the Chapel, a good sitting Angel of the Picsurrec- tiou ; next to it, Lady Lucan, second wife of Lord Lucan of Balaclava, with a statue of Desolation (1S71). Hence a corridor leads to the Chapel, in which are frescoes of twelve sub- jects from the life of S. Bruno, with goodhalf-lengths of the two Catharines in lunettes. A small Cloister reached from this has several fresco Ma- donnas, one of which is curiously represented as gravida. Close by are the Etruscan Tombs, with a few open graves. Further on, a good bust of Contessa Barberini in 17th cent, cos- tume (1621). *Madoniia di San Luca. Outside the restored Porta Saragozza (F. 2), which has two lateral round towers, with a machicolated tower in the centre, is a fine arch designed by Monti, in 1675, as a propykcum or entrance to the celebrated Portico leading to the Madonna di S. Luca. This extraordinary example of public spirit and devotion was commenced in 1674, the first stone being laid between the 130th and 131st arches. The portico is 12 ft. broad and 15 ft. high, and consists of two portions, the Portico della Pianura (plain), and the P. della Salita (of the ascent) ; it has several angles or turnings in conse- quence of the irregularity of the ground. The first, consisting of 306 arches, was completed in 1676. Here the Portico della Salita is united to the 1st portico by the grand arch, called, from the neighbouring torrent, the"Arco di Meloncello." The dif- ficulties of the ascent were skilfully overcome ; and the money was raised by voluntary contributions, aided by the donations of the corporation and religious communities, as is shown by the inscriptions recording their bene- factions. From 1676 to 1730, 329 arches of the ascent were finished, with the 15 chapels of the Rosary; and in 1739 the entire portico was completed, including no less than 635 arches, with a total length of nearly 3 m. The fine Church, occupying the 400 Boute 05. — Bologna : S. Micliele in Be summit of the Monte della Guardia, derives its name from one of those numerous paintings of tlie Virgin attributed to St. Luke, said to have been bro\ight to this spot in IKJO by a hermit from Constantinople, and pre- served in a recess above the high altar, in a case of marble and gilt bronze. It is still regarded Avith so much veneration that its annual visit to the city on Ascension Day is the scene of one of the greatest public festivals of the Bolognese. The Church, erected hy Dotti in 1731, con- tains numerous paintings by modern artists, but none of the great Bolog- nese masters, excepting a Madonna with S. Dominic, and the 15 INIysteries of the Rosary, in the 3rd chapel on the rt., by Guido Beni, one of his earliest productions. The *view is the chief attraction. The rich and glowing plains, from the Adriatic to the Alps and Apennines, are seen spread out like a map, studded with villages, churclie?, convents, and cities, among which Ferrara, Modena, and Imola may be distinctly recog- nised. Towards the E. the prospect is bounded by the Adriatic, and on the W. and S. the eye ranges along the picturesque and broken line of the Apennines. The excursion to San Luca and the Campo Santo, driving from one to the other, will occupy from to 3 to 4 hours. A carriage for two persons can be ob- tained at the Hotel Brun for 15 lire, and for four persons, 20 lire. *San Michele in Bosco is beauti- fully situated on a hill to the S. of the town, 1 ^ m. beyond the Porta Azerjlio (II. 4). 'i'his great establishment, formerly attached to a monastery of the Olivetans, and one of the finest ex- amples of monastic splendour in Italy, was suppressed at the French inva- sion ; its magnificent halls were for 22 years converted into barracks and prisons, and its best pictures were carried to Paris. It was assigned as a summer residence to the Cardinal Legate in 1829. In 1860 the Convent became a Royal Villa; the Exhibition of 1888 was held partly within its walls; and t in 1890, chiefly on account of a munifi- centbequest of 2,000,000 francs hyProf. linzoli, a surgeon of Bologna, it was fitted up as an Orthopadic Iitstitute,or j Asylum for Lame Children. The main doorway was designed by Bahlassare Pcruzzi. At the entrance are two beautiful holy water basins in white marble. Tomb of the famous con- dottiere Armaciotto dei Ramazzotti, by Alfonso Lombardo (1528) — "a weak, ill-drawn figure, in a position awkward in sleep and impossible in death" (Perkins). On each side of the nave are four \o\e\y j^utti, holding medallions, l)y Cifjiiani; under those on the rt., good Confessionals in tarsia woodwork. In the 2nd chapel rt. is the Death of S. Carlo in oil, and four frescoes of his life, by Aless. Tiarini. The large lunette of St. Michael over the chancel arch, and the cupola above it, are by Camdl. Screen of gilded arabesques in soft stone (jimcigno). The tine inlaid stalls have been re- moved to S. Petronio. On the rt. is a large modern group in plaster of the Virgin and Child, supported by four Angels, made by order of Carlo Al- berto for the Villa Racconigi, near Turin. A good intarsia door leads to the Sacristy, where is a painting by Bagnacavallo in imitation of Raffael's Transfiguration ; at the sides, single figures of the four Latin Fathers, SS. Petronius, John Bapt., Benedict, Seolastica, and others. In the CoRO NoTTURNo are frescoes by Inuoceiizo da Jmola of the Annunciation, Death, and Assumption of the Virgin. Here Pius IX. said mass, and Victor Em- manuel five years afterwards attended as a worshipper. The octagonal Cloister has ruined frescoes by the Caracci. E. of the Convent is the Villa Revedin, surrounded with beautiful grounds, which a carriage may enter by permission. *Fine view over the town. Besides the Railways (see Heading of h'oute), several lines of Steam Tram- wav start from Bologna. S.E.E. to (2r m.) Imola; N.E.E. to (17 m.) Boutes 9G, 97. — Ferrara to Suzzara and Bimi7ii. 401 Haricelta; N. to (19 m.^Pieve di Cento; W. to (21 m.) Vignola. ROUTE 96. Perrara to suzzara. Miles Stations. Routes Ferrara ... 95, 97 12 Bondeno 21 Sermide 30 Poggio Rusco 42 S. Benedetto Po 62 Suzzara . . . .104 This Rly. runs "VV. to Bondeno, where it crosses the Panaro, a tribu- tary of the Po. Thence N.W. to Sermide, on tlie rt. bank of the Po, where the direction l)ecomes W, again as far as Poggio Rusco. Here we cross the direct line in constrnction between Bologna and Verona (Rte. 111). x\t San "Benedetto the line turns S.W., and proceeds to Suzzara Junct. (Rte. 104). ROUTE 97. RRARA TO RIMINI, BY RAVENJS Miles stations. Eoutes Ferrara . . 95,96 11 Montesanto 15 Portomaggiore . 98 21 Argeata 28 Lavezzola . , . 100 35 Alfonsine 39 Mezzano 46 Ravenna , . 99 49 Classe 55 Savio 60 Cervia 64 Cesenatico 68 BeUaria 75 Viserba 78 Rimini . . 102 On leaving Ferrara (Rte. 9.5) the Rly. runs S.E.to Portomaggiore Junct, where a line turns off S.W. to Bologna. A tunnel leads to Lavezzola Junct. on the Reno (Rly. S. to Lugo). From N. Itahj. Alfonsine a steam tramway runs S.W. to Lugo. Ravenna Junct. (C. D. 7). Accademia delle Belle Arti Archbishop's Palace . . Biblioteca Comunale . . Cathedral Churches: — Sta. Agata . . . . . S. ApoUinare Huovo . . Sta. Chiara Sta. Croce S. Francesco .... S. Giov. Battista . . . S. Giov. Evangelista . . S. Giov. e Paolo . . . S. M. in Cosmedin S. M. in Porto .... Santo Spirito .... San Vitale Environs Fortrff-8 Gates General Introduction . . History Hospital Mausoleum of Galla Placldia Museo Nazionale . . . Palace of Theodoric . . . Palazzo Comunale . . . Giulio Rasponi . . Piazza dell' Aquila . . . Vittorio Kmanuele . Teatro Alighieri . . . Tomb of Dante .... Exarch Isaac Torre del Pubblico . . . 'ACS 416 414 414 405 407 40S 408 409 409 4 09 409 409 410 417 417 416 401 402 416 411 414 412 404 416 405 404 416 412 411 405 Ravenna, once the capital of the W^estern Empire, the seat of the Gothic and Longobardic kings, and the metro- polis of the Greek exarchs, is one of those historical cities which are best illustrated by their monuments. Within its walls repose the children of Theo- dosius, and amidst the tombs of its exarchs and patriarchs lie the mortal remains of Dante. A short distance beyond the gates is the mausoleum of Theodoric, king of the Goths : the city ramparts still bear evidence of the breaches made in them by the barbarians who invaded Italy during the Lower Empire ; and its ' half-deserted streets are filled with Christian antiquities which have undergone scarcely any change since the time of Justinian. As the traveller wanders through them, their solitude recalls the feelings with which he may have ridden round the walls of Constantinople ; but Ravenna has pre- served more memorials of her imperial masters, and possesses a far higher interest for the Christian antiquary, than 2 D 402 Boute 97. — Bavenna: History. even that celebrated seat of empire. *' Whoever loves early Christian monu- ments, whoever desires to see them in greater perfection than the lapse of 14 centuries could warrant us in expect- in.i^, whoever desires to study them unaided by the remains of heathen anti- quity, should make ever\' effort to spend some days at least in this noble and imperial city. From Rome it differs mainly in this— that your meditations on its ornaments are not disturbed by the constant recurrence of pagan remains, nor 3'our researches perplexed by the necessity of enquiring what was built and what was borrowed by the faithful. Ravenna has only one antiquitj^, and that is Christian. Seated, like Rome, in the midst of an unhealthy, desolate plain, except when its unrivalled pine- forests cast a shade of deeper solitude and melancholy over it — quiet and lonely, without the sound of wheels upon its grass-grown pavement — it has not merely to lament over the decaj" of ancient magniticence, but upon its total destruction, except what Religion has erected for herself. She was not in time to apply her saving as well as puri- fying unction to the basilicas and temples of preceding ages ; or rather, she seemed to occupy what she could replace, and therefore in the strength of imperial favour, raised uqw buildings for the Christian worsliip, such as no other city but Rome coidd boast of." — Cardinal Wiseman. The history of Ravenna embraces a considerable portion of that of Italy during the middle ages, and even of the Eastern and Western Empires. The accounts hy classical writers show that the ancient city was built on wooden piles in the midst of a vast larfuw, or swamp, and so intersected with marshes that communication was kept up by numerous bridges, not only throughout the adjacent country', but even in the city itself. The sea, which is now from 3 to 4 m. distant, tlien flowed up to its ■v\%alls. Ravenna became a Roman colony at an early period. In the contests between Sylla and Marius it espoused the cause of the latter, for which it sub- sequently severely suffered ; and, judging from an expression in Cicero, was an important naval station at the time of Pompey. Ciiesar occupied it previous to his invasion of Italy. Under Augus- tus its consequence was increased by the construction of an ample port at the mouth of the Candianns, capable of affording shelter to 250 ships, and super- seding the old harbour at the mouth of the Ronco. lie connected the new port with the Po by means of a canal, and carried a causeway to it from the city, which he made his frequent resi- dence, and embellished with magnificent buildings. The new harbour was called Partus Clas>is, a name still retained in the distinctive title of the basilica of S. Apollinaris ; and the intermediate settle- ment which arose from the establishment of the port was called CcBsarea, whose name also was long perpetuated by the Church of S. Lorenzo in Cesarea. Sub- sequent emperors added to the natural strength of Ravenna by fortifying and maintaining its importance as a naval station. But its true interest does not commence until after the classical age. On the decline of the Roman empire, Honorius chose Ravenna as the capital of the Western Empire, a.d.404. The alluvial deposits of the Po had begun to accumulate on the coast ; the port of Augustus had been gradually filled up, and the forests of pines which supplied the Roman fleet with timber had usurped the site where that fleet once rode at anchor, and spread far along the shore, thus extending gradu- ally to a greater distance from the city. These and other circumstances combined to make it a place of security ; and Honorius, afraid of remaining defence- less at Milan, chose Ravenna as his residence, where he was safe amidst the canals and morasses, then too shallow to admit the large vessels of the enemy. He strengthened the city with additional fortifications, and so far succeeded that its impregnable position saved it from the inroads of the barbarians under Radagaldus and Alaric. However, Odoacer, in little more than 70 years after the arrival of Honorius, made him- self master of Ravenna, and extinguished the Empire of the West, bj' deposing Romulus Augustulus, the last of the Caesars. His rule, however, had lasted but 15 years when Theodoric, king of the Ostro-Goths, crossed the Alps with a powerful army, and after several gallant struggles overthrew Odoacer, and made Ravenna the capital of the Gothic king- dom. Theodoric was succeeded in the sovereignty of Italy by two of his de- scendants, and they in turn by a series of elective kings — from the last of whom (Vitiges) Justinian endeavoured to recon- Boute 97. — Bavenna: History. 403 quer the lost provinces, aided by the military genius of Belisarins. The campaign of that celebrated general and his siege and capture of Eavenna, a.d. 639, are familiar to every reader of the ' Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire.' On the disgrace of Belisarius, the con- quest of Italy was completed by Narses the eunuch, "^ who was established as exarch at Eavenna, a.d. 554. The rank thus conferred upon the favourite lieu- tenant of the emperor was extended to his successors during the continuance of the Greek sovereignty : the functions of the exarchs corresponded in some mea- sure to those of the ancient pra3toriau prefects. Their government comprised the entire kingdom of Italy, including Eome itself ; and the pope or bishop of the Christian capital was regarded as subject to their authorit}', possessing merely a temporal barony in Eome, but dependent on the exarchate. The terri- tory understood to be comprised in the Exarchate embraced modern Eomagna, the districts of Ferrara and Comacchio, the maritime Pentapolis, or towns ex- tending along the Adriatic from Eimini to Ancona, and a second or inland Penta- polis, including several towns on the eastern declivities of the Apennines. The exarchate lasted 185 years, during which the people of Rome erected a kind of republic under their bishop; and Astaulphus, king of the Lombards, seeing that Eavenna would be an easy prey, drove out Eutychius, the last exarch, became master of the city, and made it the metropolis of the Longobardic king- dom (a.d. 754). The attempt of the Lombards to seize Rome also, as a de- pendency of the exarchate, brought to the aid of the Church the powerful army of the Franks under Pepin and Charle- magne, by whom the Lombards were expelled, and Ravenna, with the ex- archate, made over to the Holy See : " and the world beheld for the first time a Christian bishop invested with the prerogatives of a temporal prince, the choice of magistrates, the exercise of justice, the imposition of taxes, and the wealth of the palace of Ravenna." After this transfer, the fortunes of Eavenna began rapidly to decline ; its archbishops frequently seized the go- vernment, and it was the scene of repeated commotions among its own citizens. In the loth cent, the con- stitution of Ravenna strongly tended to an aristocracy : its general council was composed of 250, and its special council of 70 persons. In the contests of the Guolphs and Ghibellinen, Pietro Tra- versari, an allv of the former, declared himself Duke of Eavenna (1218), with- out changing the mxmicipal institutions of the city. His son and successor quarrelled with the emperor Frederick II., who reduced Eavenna to obedience and despoiled it of many of its treasures. The city was shortly after seized upon by Innocent IV., and reduced again to the authority of the Eoman pontiffs, who governed it by vicars. In 1275 it Avas ruled by the family of Novella, lords of Polenta, Avhose connection with it is commemorated by Dante under the image of the eagle which figured in their armorial bearings {Inf. xxvii.). After some changes the inhabitants were induced by civil tumults, arising from the ambition or cupidity of its powerful citizens, to throw themselves under the protection of Venice, in 1441. Eavenna flourished under the republic ; its public buildings were restored, its fortress was strengthened, and the laws were administered with justice and wisdom. After retaining it for 68 years, the Venetians finally ceded it to the Eoman See in 1509 under Julius II. : it then became the capital of Eomagna, and was governed by papal legates. In less than three years after this event the general Italian war which fol- lowed the league of Cambray brought into Italy the army of Louis XII. under Gaston de Foix, who began his cam- paign of Eomagna by the siege of Eavenna. After a vain attempt to carrj'- it by assault, in which he was bravely repulsed by the inhabitants, the arrival of the Papal and Spanish troops induced him to give battle, on Easter Sunday, April 11, 1512. Italy had never seen so bloody a combat : little short of 20,000 men are said to have lain dead upon the field, when the Spanish infantry, yet unbroken, slowly retreated. Gaston de Foix, furious at seeing them escape, rushed upon the formidable host in the vain hope of throwing them into dis- order, and perished in the attempt about 2 m. from the walls of Eavenna. The French gained the victory, but it was dearly purchased by the loss of their chivalrous commander (see below, Co- lonna del Franccsi). At the French invasion of 1796 Ea- 2 D 2 404 l^oute 97. — Havenna : Chief Ohjcds of Interest. vcnua Avas deprived of its rank a3 the capital of Roniagna, which -was given to Forli ; but it was restored by Austria in 1709, only to be again transferred by the French in the following year. On the fall of the Kingdom of Italy in 1815, Ravenna was again made the cliief city of the Papal province ; but its ancient glory had passed for ever, and only three towns and a few villages were left subject to its authority. In 1860 it was united to the new Kingdom of Italy. REFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 V 3 Duomo. 2 E 3 Baptistery. 3 C 3 S. Vitale. 4 c 3 S. ^Maria Maggiore. 5 c 3 Mausoleum of Galla Placidia 6 c 5 S. Giovanni Battista. 7 D 6 S. Gi..vanni Evangelists. 8 E G S. Apollinare Xuuvo. 9 D 5 S. Spirito. 10 D 5 S. :M:iria in Cusmodin. 11 F 5 S. Agatii. 12 F 7 .S. Maria in Porto. 13 F 4 S. Xiccolo. U F 4 Library and ^Museum. 15 E 5 8. Francesco. 16 D 4 S. Domenico. 17 D 4 S. Michele. 18 D 2 S. Giovanni e Paolo. 19 E 5 Tomb of Dante. 20 E 5 House of Byrun. 21 F 4 Accademia'delle Belle Arti. 22 D 5 Theaire. 23 D 4 Pal. Governativo. 24 E 6 Pal. of Tlieodoric. 25 F 3 Archbishop's Palace. 26 E 4 Post Ofiftce. HOTELS. a E 5 Byron. h D 5 S. Marco. RAVENNA (12,000) is the capital of the province, and the seat of an arch!)ishop, to whom most of the bishops of Romagna are suffragans. Its bishopric, one of the most ancient in the Christian world, is said to have been founded a. d. 44, by S. Apollinaris, a disciple of Peter; and it obtained the dignity of an archiepiscopal see as early as 439, under Sixtus III. The circuit of the city is about 3 m., but nearly one-half of the enclosed space consists of gardens. Its port, com- municating with the Adriatic by a canal, is still one of tlie great outlets of Romagna, and carries on a con- siderable trade with Venice, the Aus- trian possessions in Ltria and Dal- matia, and the Italian ports of the Adriatic. Cli vj Ohjects of Interest in topo- graphical order. 1st day: Duomo; *BaptistekY ; Archbishop's Palace ; Palazzo Ras- poni ; Porta Adriana ; *San Yitale and S. M. ]Maggiore : *Tomb of Galea Placidia; San Giovanni Battista; Porta Serrata ; Matsoleum of Theo- DORIG ; returning into the city by the Port and Porta Alberoni ; *Palace of Theodoric ; *S. Apollinare Nuovo ; S. GiovANKi Evangelista ; S. Spirito and *S. Maria in Cosmedin ; Piazza Maggiore. 2n'd day: *Tomb of Dante; S. Francesco ; House of Lord P.yron ; Accademia delle Bklle Arti ; Library ; and *Mu.sEr.M. S. Agata ; Porta Sisi ; S. M, in Porto; Porta Nuova ; *S. Apollinare in Classe ; *S. M. in Porto Fuori ; *Pineta. In one day : — from the Rly. stat. to S. Apollinare Xuovo, Palace of Theodoric, Dante's Tomb, iNIuseum and Picture Gallery, Archbishop's Palace, Cathedral and Baptistery, through the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele to S. Vitale and the Tomb of Galla Placidia ; then by the Porta Serrata to the Mausoleum of Theodoric. The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele Q. 4) is supposed to correspond with the ancient Forum. It has two granite COLUMNS erected in 1484 by the Vene- tians, one of which bears the statue of S. Apollinaris, by Pit fro Lomhardo ; the other S. Vital is", by Clcmerde MolU, which replaced a figure of St. Mark, by Lomhardo, in 1509, when[ Ravenna was restored to the Church. Close to them is the Palazzo Comunale ^Municipio), with! marble busts of seven cardinal legates, in a large room on the first floor. At the E. end of the Piazza is a Gymnasium, in a desecrated Church. On the S. side are the Palazzo Gover- nativo, the seat of the Provincial Ad- ministration, a building of the 17th cent., and an open portico of wide Houte 97. — Havenna : Catliedral. 405 irclies on eight ancient columns of granite, with ill-adapted marble capi- als, upon one of which, at the corner acing the Municipio, is a monogram, )elieved to be that of Theodoric. The Piazza dell' Aquila, further W., s so called from the column of grey granite surmounted by an eagle, the irmorial device of Cardinal Caetani, n whose honour it was erected in 1609. The Torre del Pubhlico, a lar^e square leaning tower of brick, will lot fail to attract the notice of the ;tranger : nothing is known of its tiistory or origin. CHUECHES. The Cathedral (E. F. 1) was built by S. Ursus, Abp. of the see, in the 4th cent., and called from him " Ba- silica Ursiana," but it was almost entirely rebuilt in the last cent., and the cylindrical campanile alone re- mains of the original foundation. In the 1. transept are paintings by Guido Rent, representing the Fall of the Manna, and in the lunette the Meeting of Melchizedec and Abraham. The frescoes of the cupola, with the exception of the Archangel Michael, are attributed to his pupils, as well as the Prophets on the pendentives below. Near this, in a lunette, over an arch at the end of the N. aisle, is a fresco of the Angel bringing Food to Elijah, also by Guido Eeni. Over the entrance is the Banquet of Ahasuerus, by Carlo Bonone. 2nd altar rt., sarcophagus of SS. Exupe- rantius and Maximianus (6th cent.). The high altar contains a marble urn, in which are deposited the remains of several early bishops of the see. The silver Cross of St. Agnellus, to the rt., is covered with sculptures of the 6th century. In the rt. transept are two large marble urns covered with reliefs, in one of which are the ashes of St. Barbatian, con- fessor of Galla Placidia ; in the other those of Sap Binaldus. Behind the choir are two semicircular marble slabs with symbolical representations of birds and animals, which formed part of the ancient amho or pulpit; a work of the 6th cent., as shown by the inscription stating that it was erected by St. Agnellus. Near them is a relief of St. Mark by Lomhardi. In the Saciusty is a Paschal Calendar, on marble — a remarkable monument of astronomical knowledge in early times. It was calculated for 95 years, beginning with 532, and ending iu 626. Here is also the *PAStORAL Chair of St. Maximianus, formed entirely of ivory, Avith his monogram in front. The reliefs below the mono- gram represent the Saviour as shep- herd and priest in the midst of the Evangelists ; on the ends is the history of Joseph : on the back the Marriage in Cana and Baptism of Christ, with arabesque designs of animals. It is precious as a specimen of art in the 6th cent., but it has suffered from injudicious cleaning. Enclosed within the W. door are preserved some frag- ments of its celebrated Door of VENEWOOU, which has been superseded by one of modern construction. The original planks are said to have been 13 ft. long and nearly 1 J wide — a proof that the ancients were correct in stating that the vine attains a great size, and confirmatory of the assertion that the statue of Diana of Ephesus was made of the vine-wood of Cyprus. It is probable that the wood of the Ea- venna doors was imported from Con- stantinople. The traveller's attention is particu- larly called to the Ancient Marbles OF Ravenna, which are here more abundant and beautiful than in any town in Italy, except Rome and Venice. In this Church are 18 columns of Marmolmezio (from Mount Hymettus), four of higioantico, and two of cipollino. The altars and tombs are rich in marble fragments. At an altar on the rt. of the choir are two columns of cipollino rosso, one of the rarest of marbles, unfortunately mutilated at the back (see S. Apollinare). The *Baptistery, or " S. Giovanni Boute 97. — Bavenna : Cathedral. 40^ arches on eight ancient columns of granite, M'ith ill-adapted marble capi- tals, upon one of which, at the corner facing the Municipio, is a monogram, believed to be that of Theodoric. ' The Piazza dell' Aquiia, further W., is so called from the column of grey granite surmounted by an eagle, the armorial device of Cardinal Caetani, in whose honour it was erected in 1609. The Torre del Pubblico, a large square leaning tower of brick, will not fail to attract the notice of the stranger : nothing is known of its history or origin. CHUKCHES. The Cathedral (E. F. 1) was built by S. Ursus, Abp. of the see, in the 4th cent., and called from him " Ba- silica Ursiana," but it was almost entirely rebuilt in the last cent., and the cylindrical campajiile alone re- mains of the original foundation. In the 1. transept are paintings by , Guido Eeni, representing the Fall of the Manna, and in the lunette the Meeting of Melchizedec and Abraham. The frescoes of the cupola, with the exception of the Archangel Michael, are attributed to his pupils, as well as the Prophets on the pendentives below. Near this, in a lunette, over an arch at the end of the N. aisle, is a fresco of the Angel bringing Food to Elijah, also by Guido Eeni. Over the entrance is the Banquet of Ahasuerus, by Carlo Bonone. 2nd altar rt., sarcophagus of SS. Exupe- rantius and Maximianus (6th cent.). The high altar contains a marble urn, in which are deposited the remains of several early bishops of the see. The silver Cross of St. Agnellus, to the rt., is covered with sculptures of the 6th century. In the rt. transept are two large marble urns covered with reliefs, in one of which I are the ashes of St. Barbatian, con- fessor of Galla Placidia ; in the other those of Sap Jlinaldus, Behind the choir are two semicircular marble slabs with symbolical representations of birds and animals, which formed part of the ancient amho or pulpit; a work of the 6th cent., as shown by the inscription stating that it was erected by St. Agnellus. Near them is a relief of St, Mark by Lomhardi. In the Sacristy is a Paschal Calendar, on marble — a remarkable monument of astronomical knowledge in early times. It was calculated for 95 years, beginning with 532, and ending iu 626. Here is also the ^Pastoral Chair of St. Maximianus, formed entirely of ivory, with his monogram in front. The reliefs below the mono- gram represent the Saviour as shep- herd and priest in the midst of the Evangelists ; on the ends is the history of Joseph : on the back the Marriage in Cana and Baptism of Christ, with arabesque designs of animals. It is precious as a specimen of art in the 6th cent., but it has suffered from injudicious cleaning. Enclosed within the W. door are preserved some frag- ments of its celebrated Door of VINEWOOU, which has been superseded by one of modern construction. The original planks are said to have been 13 ft. long and nearly 1 J wide — a proof that the ancients were correct in stating that the vine attains a great size, and confirmatory of the assertion that the statue of Diana of Ephesus was made of the vine-wood of Cyprus. It is probable that the wood of the Ea- venna doors was imported from Con- stantinople. The traveller's attention is particu- larly called to the Ancient Marbles OF Eavenna, which are here more abundant and beautiful than in any town in Italy, except Eome and Venice. In this Church are 18 columns of Marmo Imezio (from Mount Hymettus), four of higioantico, and two oicipolUno. The altars and tombs are rich in marble fragments. At an altar on the rt. of the choir are two columns of cipoUino rosso, one of the rarest of marbles, unfortunately mutilated at the back (see >S'. Apollinare). The *Baptistery, or " S. Giovanni 406 Boute 97. — Bavenna : Sta. Arjata. in Fonte," to the N., is the earliest and in many respects tlie most in- teresting of the ecclesiastical edifices here. It is supposed to have been likewise founded by S. Ursus, about A.D. 380, and ornamented with mosaics in 451 W Abp. Neo. It is an octa- gonal building with five plain sides and two restored niches within the other three. The only ornaments on the exterior are the simple brick cor- nices below the lines of the side and central roofs, and on the upper part of each wall of the octagon a blind win- dow. On the lower part of one of these panels is a small antique marble relief of a warrior on horseback, hold- ing a wreath. The interior has two ranges of ar- cades, the lower resting on eight columns of different orders with marble capitals, placed in the angles of the building : tlie upper, 2-4 in number, are dissimilar in dimensions as well as in the style of the capitals. From these dwarf colonnettes spring eight round arches .... and from the lines formed by them, or rather from the returns below, the 5th-cent. mosaic work commences. On the spandrels, upon oval backgrounds of gold en- closed by acanthus-leaves springing from the capitals of the columns beneath them, and spreading out in lovely scrolls to the right and left over and above the arches, are eight Prophets, grand, noble, majestic figures, draped in white. The ornamentation of the dome is divided into two zones surrounding the central picture, the Baptism in the Jordan, with a repre- sentation of the river, having its name placed over it, and in the circumfer- ence the Apostles, each with his name and bearing a crown.f " While these figures are full of life, they + The most correct representations of these, as well as of most oth'-r ancient mosaics of Ravenna, will be found in Ciampini, ' Vetera Monumenta,' 3 vols. fol. Roma, 175". For the tomb of Galla Placidia, see guast's 'Alt. Christlichen Rauwerke von Ravenna,' 1 vol. fol. Berlin, 1842. A more portable notice of these mosaics will be found in Mr. J. H. Parker's brief description of the 'Mosaic Pictures in Rome and Ravenna,' with dia- grams. Reference may also be made to Crowe and Cavalcaselle, 'North Italy,' vol. i. p. 10. are at the same time somewhat dis- proportionately tall, the heads too small for the height, the limbs slightly angular, and the drapery which floats behind them wanting in grace and correctness of fold. The faces have much individuality, but the aim has not been fully attained. They are, together with all the upper portion, including the central picture, inferior to the Prophets below. They evi- dently belong to a later period." It is probable " that, through some cause, the mosaics in the dome were injured and Avrought anew some half century later." The transpar- ency of the water in the Baptism is remarkable. The prevailing colour of the Mosaics is gold and white on blue, with a little green and saifron. The grand vase under the cupola, which was formerly used for baptism by immersion, is of Marmo Imezio, "with two slabs of red porphyry. There is a recess or ambo for the officiating priest. A Chapel contains imder its altar a sculptured fragment of the 6th cent., which formerly belonged to the ciborium of the old cathedral. The ancient metal cross on the summit of the building bears an inscription recording that it was erected in 688 by Archbishop Theodorus. The building is now some 10 ft. belovv" its proper level, and it is pro- posed by the Italian Government to raise the whole structure bodily, so as to prevent any further sinking into the marshy ground. In the adjoining square are several mediaeval and sepulchral urns in marble. In front of the Duomo there is a column of grey granite, sur- mounted by a statue of the Virgin (1659). Sta. Agata (F. 5), dating from the early part of the 5th cent, has 24 columns of granite, higio, cipolUno, and other marbles, in general with ancient composite capitals, the imposts over Avhich have the cross sculptured upon them. The wall which rises over them was formerly pierced with windows, as in the smaller Christian basilicas. At the end of the rt. aisle, JRoute 97. — Bavenna: S. Ajpollinare Nuovo. 407 one of Luca LongM's best works, SS. Agata, Catharine, and Cecilia. The altar of this chapel contains the bodies of S. Sergius martyr, and S. Agnellus archbishop, and bears mono- grams of Sergius Diaconus. The very ancient pulpit is hollowed out from a section of a huge fluted column of Marmo Imezio from some pagan edifice, ' *S. Apollinare Nuovo (E. 6), built by Theodoric in the beginning of the 6th cent, as the cathedral for his Arian bishops, was consecrated for Catholic worship by Abp. S. Agnellus, at the close of the Gothic kingdom, and dedicated to S. Martin. It was also called San Martino in CceJo Aureo on account of its magnificent decorations, and Sacellum Arii from its original destination. It assumed its present name in the 9th cent., from the report that the body of S. Apollinaris had been transferred within its walls in order to secure it in its real resting-place at Classe from the attacks of the Saracens. The 24 marble columns were brought from Constantinople ; they have com- posite capitals, on each of which is an impost with Latin crosses sculptured on it. There is a fine coffered ceiling. The walls of the nave, which rest on these arches, are covered with *MosAics, executed about a.d. 570. On the 1. is represented the city of Classis, with the sea and ships; then come 22 virgins, each holding in her hand a crown, preceded by the Magi, in the act of presenting their offerings to the Virgin and Child, seated upon a throne with two angels on either side. " This superb mosaic, the finest in the whole of Eavenna, may deserve atten- tion on another account : the earliest monuments of Christian art give little countenance to Mariolatry, or the peculiar veneration to the Virgin which has so long distinguished the Greek and Roman churches. In this mosaic, however, though the presence of the Magi with offerings may seem to denote some relation to the Na- tivity as an historical fact, the 22 virgins in their company, the angels as it were guarding the Mother and Child, and especially the glory round her head, exclude all but an alle- gorical or symbolical meaning, and lead to the conclusion that this great corruption of Christianity was esta- blished in the Church before the end of the 6th cent., while the absence of similar representations in earlier works would lead to an opposite inference.'^ — H. Hallam. Opposite is a mosaic of Ravenna, in which are seen the Basilica of San Vitale, and an edifice supposed to represent the palace of Theodoric, from its bearing the word Palatium, 25 saints holding crowns, each having a glory round the head, approach to receive the benediction of the Saviour sitting on a throne between four angels. The first in the proces- sion is in a violet instead of white tunic, and bears the name of Martinus, patron of the Church. Above the windows, on the S. side, are familiar Passion Scenes, beginning with the Last Supper, in v/hich Christ is repre- sented with a beard ; on the N. side, Miracles and Parables (without a beard), in the following order, begin- ning at the W. end. — 1. Cripple takes up his bed and walks. — 2. Devils and herd of Swine. — 3. Paralytic let down from a window. — 4. Paralde of the Sheep and Goats. — 5. Calling of St. Matthew.— 6. Veil of the Temple. — 7. Raising of Lazarus. — 8. Woman at the Well.— 9. Issue of Blood.— 10. Healing the Blind Man. — 11. Draught of Fishes. — 12. Jesus surveys the hungry multitude. — 13. Boy brings loaves and fishes. The pulpit is covered with early Christian sculp- tures, and supported by a mass of grey granite. The last chapel in the 1. aisle has been fitted up as a sort of Museum of ancient fragments. It contains the urn in which are said to be preserved the remains of St. Apolli- naris ; the marble chair of the Bene- dictine abbots, to whom the Church formerly belonged (Idth cent.), four columns of red porphyry, two of alabaster, and an elaborate perforated screen (canceUo). On the R. wall is a portrait of ^Justinian in mosaic. To the rt. in the Choir is the tomb of 408 Itoiite 97. — Bavenna : Churches. Card. Malvasia, -with a plinth of cipol- lino rosso, apparently cut away from columns in the Cathedral, Sta. Chiara (E. 7), a desecrated and half-ruined building, has some Giott- esque paintings on the walls and ceil- ing of its Choir. Santa Croce (C. 3), built by Galla Placidia in the 5th cent., near her mausoleum, and consecrated by St. Peter Chrysologus, has been sadly ruined. San Domenico (16, D. 4), a restora- tion of an ancient basilica founded by the exarchs, contains some works by Niccolo Hondinello, a pupil of Giov. Bellini. In the Choir, on the 1., Virgin and Child with SS. Dominic, Jerome, Joseph, and Francis further on. Annunciation ; opposite, SS. Do- menico and Peter Martyr. In the chapel 1. of the Chancel is an an- cient wooden crucifix covered with fine linen in imitation of human skin, which is said to have sweated blood during the battle of Eavenua under Gaston de Foix. The form of the Cross is that of the letter Y- The 2ud chapel on the 1. contains, in small paintings, the Fifteen jNIysteries of the Jiosary, by Luca Longhi, whose me- morial tablet is nearly opposite, be- tween the 1st and 2nd altars. In the 3rd chapel rt. is the Invention of the Cross, by the same artist. S. Francesco (15, E. 5), supposed to have been erected in the middle of the 5th cent, by St. Peter Chrysologus, on the site of a temple of Neptune, has suffered from modern restorations. It has 22 columns of marmo Imezio. Outside the chapel of the Crucifix, 2ud rt., are two beautiful columns of Greek marble, decorated with *capitals by I'ktro Lomhardo, by whom likewise are the rich arabesques of the frieze and pilasters. In the 4 th chapel rt. is a Virgin and Child, with SS. Francis, Poch, and Sebastian, by Sacchi d'imola, a rare master. The altar at the end of the rt. aisle is an urn con- taining the remains of !?. Liberius, archbishop of the see — a fine work (4th or 5th cent.) ; with reliefs of the Apostles, and the Saviour. At the end of the 1. aisle is the tomb of Luffo Numai, of Forli, secretary of Pino Ordelaffi,lordof that city, by Tcmimaso Flamherti (1519). Upon the wall on the rt. of the entrance-door is a sepul- chral slab-tomb of red Verona marble, formerly on the floor, Mith a relief of Ostasio da Polenta, lord of Ravenna, in the dress of a Franciscan monk, and the inscription : " Hicjacetmagnificus Dominus Hostasius de Polenta qui ante diem felix obiens occubuit 5icccxxx?vi die xiv mensis Martii, cujus anima requiescat in pace." The head of Ostasio is beautiful. The Polenta family, so celebrated for their hospitality to Dante and for the fate of Francesco da Piraini, are buried here. On the 1. is a similar sepulchral stone, on which is sculptured the figure of Enrico Alfieri, general of the Fran- ciscan order, who died at the age of 92, in 1405, as recorded by a long in- scription in hexameters. He was of Asti, and probably of the family of the poet. A sarcophagus stands in front of each slab, and another, with figures in relief, close by. Under the raised Choir is a vaulted Crypt, in the form of a swimming bath, with four columns of marmo Imezio, and an arcade of smaller coluunss running round the irregularly disposed walls. N. of the Church is the Cappclla Braccioforte, hidden in the walls of which were discovered the bones of Dante in May 1S65 (see beloAv). In it are some ancient sarcophagi. Ad- jacent, in the old cemetery of the friars, is the mausoleum of Dante. The house at the corner of the little square is that which Lord Byron in- habited for several mouths on his first arrival at Paveuna in 1819. S. Giovanni Battista (C. 5), erected by Galla Placidia for her confessor St. Barbatian in 438, was consecrated by St. Peter Chrysologus, but almost entirely rebuilt in 1683. The columns are chiefly adapted from the ancient building ; some of them, however, were found in the neighbourhood, on the Boute 97. — Bavenna : Churches. 409 supposed site of the palace in which Galla Placidia resided. In the 1. transept is the Virgin and Child with SS. Clement and Jerome ; in the 1st chapel L, the Virgin and Child with SS. Matthew and Francis, both by Francesco LongJii. The circular Campanile is one of the best pre- served specimens of this class of bell- towers, so peculiar to Ravenna ; it has six tiers ; the upper one t)f narrow arches, with its terminal cornice and its pyramidal roof entire. S. Giovanni Evangelista (D. 6), also called S. Giovanni clella Sagra, was founded in 414 by the Empress Galla Placidia, in fulfilment of a vow made in a tempest during the voyage from Constantinople to Eavenna with her children. Tradition relates that, not knowing with what relic to enrich the Church, the empress was praying on the subject when St. John appeared to her in a vision : she threw herself at his feet for the purpose of embrac- ing them, but the Evangelist dis- appeared, leaving one of his sandals as a relic. This vision is represented in a relief over the pointed idoorway, a work probably of the 1.3th cent.; the lower pai't shows St. John incensing the altar, with the empress embracing his feet ; in the upper part she appears offering the sandal to the Saviour and St. John, while St. Barbatiau and his attendants are seen on the other side. The doorway, especially in the small niches, is richly sculptured with figures of saints, and is a fine specimen of the architecture of the period. Imme- diately to the 1. of the entrance is an ancient marble chair. To the rt. an immured column, belonging to an earlier Church, shows the level of the original pavement. The Nave has 24 columns of higio antico. Beneath the high altar, reached by a flight of 13 steps, repose the remains of SS. Can- zius, Canzianus, and Canzianilla, martyrs. In the chapel of St. Bartho- lomew, at the extremity of the 1. aisle, are some fragments of a mosaic, repre- senting the storm and the vow of Galla Placidia. The vault of the 4th chapel 1. is covered with the Evan- gelists and Latin Fathers, painted by Giotto while on a visit to Dante. All have been more or less repainted. Beneath the choir is the ancient altar of the confessional, in marble, por- phyry, and serpentine — a work of the 5th cent. The old quadrangular Cam- IxiniJe contains two bells cast by Kobert of Saxony in 12U8. S. Giovanni e Paolo (18, D. 2), a small Church near the walls, with a Romanesque tower, has an ancient and curious ambo at the end of the rt. aisle. S. M. in Cosmedin (10, D. 5}, an octagonal building, was the ancient Arian baptistery : its vault was de- corated with *mosaics in the Gth cent., after it had passed to the Catholic worship. They represent the Baptism in the Jordan, the river issuing from the urn of a river-god ; the Saviour half immersed in it, alone wearing a glory round the head ; lower down, forming a circular band, are the Apostles, each bearing a crown, with the exception of St. Peter, who holds the keys, and St. Paul, who carries two scrolls. They advance towards a throne covered with a veil and cushion, and occupied by a cross only. Upon the large round block of granite in the centre of the floor is supposed to have stood the ancient baptismal font. Sta. Maria in Porto (F. 7) was built of the materials of the Basilica of S. Lorenzo inCesarea, in 1553. The front, adorned with two large ancient columns of cipolUno, is of the last cent. In the N. transept is a marble relief of the Virgin, in oriental costume, and in the act of praying — a very early specimen of Christian art. The 4th chapel on the rt. contains the Martyrdom of St. Mark, by Palma Giovane. In the Choir is an ancient vase in red por- phyry, supposed to have been a Roman sepulchral urn. The adjoining cloister was erected in 150". Santo Spirit© (9, D. 5), called also S. Teodoro, was built in the 6th cent, by Theodoric, for the Arian bishops ; 410 Boute 97. — Havenna: San Vitale. it assumed the uame of S. Theodore after its consecration to the Catholic worship of S, Agnellus, and afterwards to.ik the present name. It is in the form of a small basilica ; the columns, chiefly of higio antico, have composite capitals with Latin crosses on their imposts. In the 1st chapel 1. is a curious pulpit, or amho, with rude sculptures of the 6th cent. There is a good coffered ceiling, brown and gilt. In front is a portico with four columns. ♦San Vitale (3, C. 3\ This mag- nificent basilica exhibits the octagonal form, with all the accessories of Eastern splendour. As one of the earliest Christian temples, it is of the highest interest in ecclesiological art. It was built in the reign of Justinian by S. Kcclesius, Abp. of the see, on the spot where St. Vitalis suffered martyrdom, and Avas consecrated by St. Maximianus iu 547. It is an imitation of Sta. Sophia at Con- stantinople, and was adopted by Charlemagne as the model of his Church at Aix-la-Chapelle. The original pavement is considei'ably below the present floor, which is oc- casionally flooded. The interior has eight lofty arches resting on piers, between which are semicircular re- cesses in two tiers, each divided into three arches by columns. The spaces between the lower columns open into the circular aisle, and those be- tween the upper into a gallery. Above, the building becomes entirely circular. The 14 columns of the upper story have complicated capitals, some of which bear an anclior, supposed to indicate that they belonged to a temple of Neptune. The 14 columns of the lower range have also Byzan- tine capitals ; and on each of the imposts are two monograms. The pilasters and walls are covered with large slabs of Greek marble and cipolllno rosso, the latter entirely spoilt by being splayed, so as to form a geometrical pattern. The colossal dome M-as painted, early in the 18th cent., in the most barbarous taste, and in total variance with the architec- i tural character of the building. The I dome is constructed of earthen pots, and is perhaps the most perfect speci- men known of this kind of work. They are small vessels, having the point of one inserted in the mouth of the other in a continued spiral, and placed horizontally. The spandrels are partially filled with others of larger size, twisted only at the point, and arranged vertically. The walls and vault of the choir are covered with *MosAics of the time of .Justi- nian, as beautiful and as fresh as on the day when they were finished ; in- valuable as specimens of art no less than as studies of costume. The most elaborate are those of the tribune, re- presenting on the 1. the Emp. Jus- tinian holding a vase with offerings ; he is surrounded by courtiers and soldiers, and by St. Maximianus and two priests. In the compartment on the opposite wall is the Empress Theodora with a similar vase, which she offers to two courtiers, attended by the ladies of her court, in varied and elegant costumes ; the expression of some of the figures is remarkable, considering the material. In the vault above is the Saviour on the globe between archangels; on His rt. St. Vitalis receiving the crown of martyrdom ; on the 1. S. Eutychius offering a model of the Church, both saints being without glories. The roof is decorated with arabesques, and other ornamental devices. The mosaics on the con- cavity of the arch repi'esent half- figures of the Saviour and the Apostles, with SS. Gervasius and Protasivis, sons of S. Vitalis. The semicircular mosaic on the rt. of the altar repre- sents the sacrifices of the Old Law, the offerings of Abel and Melchi- zedec ; beyond it Moses tending the sheep of Jethro ; INIoses on Mount Horeb ; Moses taking off his sandals at the command of the Almighty, re- presented by a hand in the heavens. On the opposite wall the Sacrifice of Isaac, the three angels entertained by Abraham, and Sarah ridiculing the prediction of Isaac's birth; on the sides and above, Moses on Mount Sinai ; the prophets Isaiah and Jere- miah ; and higher up the Evangelists Boute 97. — Ravenna: Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. 411 with their emblems. The splendid columns are mostly of Greek marble. On the imposts of the arches of the upper columns are monograms of Julianns. On' the rt. in the Chancel is *Relief of the " Throne of Nep- tune," with a sea-monster extended beneath it; a winged genius holds a trident on the rt., and on the I. two other genii are seen bearing a large conque shell. The ornaments are pilasters of the Corinthian order, a cornice with tridents, dolphins, shells, and two sea-horses. Opposite is a modern copy. Beside them are three columns of verde-antico and one of Egyptian breccia, belonging to the haldacchino over the high altar of the original Church. Several chapels sur- round the basilica; that of the Holy Sacrament, opposite the Sacristy, has on the altar a gilded ciborium attri- buted to Michel Angela. In the passage leading to the Sa- cristy is a good relief of a sacrifice, supposed to have been one of the decorations of a temple dedicated to Augustus. Opposite are 7th cent, reliefs of Daniel in the lion's den, Christ with four figures under palm trees, and the Eaising of Lazarus. The Tomb of the Exarch Isaac, " the great ornament of Armenia," is in a recess of a closed passage (50 c). It was erected to his memory by his wife Susanna, and bears a Gi-eek inscription on the cover recording the fame he acquired in the east and in the west, and comparing her widowhood to that of the turtle-dove. The urn containing his ashes is of marble, with reliefs of the Adoration of the Magi, the Raising of Lazarus, and Daniel between the Lions. Isaac was the 8th exarch of Ravenna, and died in that city, ac- cording to Muratori, a.d. 644. In the same recess are some Koman and early Christian sculptures and inscriptions. The *]Mausoleum of Galla Pla- ciDiA (5, C. 3), or Church of SS. Nazaro e Celso, is also shown by the custodian of S. Vitale. This once magnificent sepulchre was built by the Empress Galla Placidia, daughter of Theodosius the Great, sister of Hono- rius, and mother of Valentinian III., the third, fourth, and fifth emperors of the West, towards the middle of the .5th cent. It is in the form of a Latin cross, 46 ft. by 40, and is paved with rich marbles. The cupola is entirely covered with mosaics of the time of the empress, representing the Evangelists with their symbols. Two doves are drinking from a basin of water — a Christian emblem bor- rowed from the antique. The first authenticated instance of the use of the cross on large monuments is said to be found here. On the walls are full-length figures of prophets. On the arch over the door is the Good Shepherd ; behind the tomb of the empress is the Saviour with the Gospels in His Hand ; and in each of the lateral arches are two stags at a fountain, surrounded by arabesques and other ornaments. The high altar, in the centre of the mausoleum, composed of three massive slabs of Oriental alabaster, was formerly in S. Vitale, and is referred to the 6th cent. It has reliefs of an early Christian period. The massive marble *Saecophagus, which contains the ashes of Galla Placidia, was once covered with silver plates ; but these have disappeared, together with the other ornaments with which it was originally decorated. In the side next the wall was formerly a small aperture, through which the body of the empress might be seen, sitting in a chair of cypress wood, clothed in her imperial robes. Some children having introduced a lighted candle, in 1577, the robes took fire, and the body was reduced to ashes ; since that time the aperture has re- mained closed. In the recess on the rt. side of the Mausoleum is another marble Sarco- PHAGirs with Christian symbols, which contains the remains of the Emperor Honor ius 11. , brother of Galla Pla- cidia ; and on the 1. is that of Con- stantius III., her second husband, father of Valentinian III. Beside the entrance-door are two smaller sarco- phagi, said to contain the remains of 412 Boutc 97. — Baicnna : Palace of Thcodoric. the tutors of Valentinian, and of Ilonoria, his sister. These sarcophagi are the only tombs of the Ca}sar5:, oriental or occidental, -which now remain in their original places. The mausoleum of Galla Placidia stands as a monument of the dreadful catas- trophes of the Lower Empire. She ■was born at Constantinople, and died at Eome in 450, was a slave twice, a (jueen, and an empress ; first the wife of the King of the Goths, Alaric's brother-in-law, wlio fell in love with his captive, and afterwards of one of her brother's generals, whom she was equally successful in subjecting to her will : a talented woman, but without generosity or greatness, who hastened the fall of the empire — whose ambition and vices have obscured her mis- fortunes. The extensive Benedictine Convent of S. Vitale, to the W. of the Church, has been turned into Barracks. It encloses three large Renaissance Cloisters, of which the central one, ■with fine coupled columns and Corin- thian capitals, is extremely handsome. The Palace of Theodoric (24, E. 6) served as the residence of his successors, of the Exarchs, and of the Lombard kings. The only portion re- maining is a high wall, in the upper part of which are eight small marble columns, supporting round arches, and a wide recess over the entrance-gate. On the rt. of the latter is a large por- phyry urn let into the wall, on which an inscription Avas placed in 1564, stating that it formerly contained the ashes of Theodoric, and that it was originally placed on the top of his mausoleum. Most antiquaries, how- ever, now consider that it was a bath ; the only argument in favour of its having been the sarcophagus of Theo- doric is that it Avas found near his mausoleum. The palace was chiefly ruined by Charlemagne, who, with the consent of the pope, carried away its ornaments and mosaics, and re- moved to France the equestrian statue of the king M'hich stood near it. The To3iB OF Dante (19, E. 5) is closed, and the key is kept at the Palazzo Comunale, but it may be seen without entering. Of all the monu- ments of Ilavenna, none excites a more profound interest than this. In spite of the poor taste of the building, it is impossible to approach the last resting-place of the great poet without feeling that it is one of the most hallowed monuments of Italy. Ungrateful Florence ! Dante sleeps afar, Like Scipio, bin-ied by the iiph' aiding shore; Thy factions, in their worse than civil war. Proscribed the bard, whoso name for ever- more Their children's children would in vain adore With the remorse of ages ; and the crown AVhich Petrarch's laureate brow supremely wore. Upon a far and foreign soil had grown,' His life, his fame, his grave, though rifled — not thine own. Byron. The remains of the poet, who died here on the 14th Sept., 1321, at the age of 56, were originally interred at San Francesco ; but on the ex- pulsion of his patron Guido Novello da Polenta from Ravenna, they were wuth difficulty protected from the per- secution of the Florentines and the excommunication of the pope. Car- dinal Bertando del Poggetto, legate of John XXII., ordered his bones to be burnt with his tract on Monarchy, and they narrowly escaped the pro- fanation of a disinterment. In 1483 Bernardo Bembo, then Podesta of Ravenna for the republic of Venice, and father of the celebrated cardinal, erected a mausoleum on the present site, from the designs of Pietro Lom- bardo. This monument was re-built in its present form in 1780, at the cost of Cardinal Valenti Gon^aga. It is a square edifice, with a small dome, internally decorated with stucco ornaments little worthy of such a se- pulchre. On the vault of the cupola are four medallions of Virgil, Brunetto Latini (the master of the poet), Can Grande della Scala, and Guido da Polenta, his protectors when in exile. On the walls are two Latin inscriptions, one in verse, recording the foundation by Bembo ; the other the dedication of Cardinal Gonzaga to the " Poetic sui temporis primo resti* Boiite 97. — Havemia: Tomb of Banie. 413 tutori." Above the marble sarcopha- gus which now contains the ashes of the poet is a relief of his half-figure by Lomhardo : he is represented sitting at his desk with his book ; surmounted by a crown of laurel, with the motto Virtuti et honorl. The in- scription in Latin hexameters on the urn is supposed to have been written by himself. Below it, in a marble urn, is deposited a long history in Latin of the tomb.f The visitors' book has been removed to the public library ; one of the last entries being three appropriate lines from the ' Pur- gatorio,' written by Pius IX., on his visit to Eavenna in 1857. The feelings with which this sepul- chre was visited by three great names in modern literature deserve to be t Although it had been suspected that the remains of Dante no longer lay in the mauso- leum erected by Card. Valenti Gonzaga, it was only on the occasion of the great sexcentenary anniversary of the poet's birth, celebrated with extraordinary enthusiasm throughout Italy on the 14th of May, 18G5, that this' suspicion was fully verified. In making some repairs on that occasion, by destroying a wall in the old Braccioforte chapel annexed to San Francesco, a wooden box was discovered, bearing a double inscription, stating that it contained the bones of the poet, removed here by Fra Antonio de' Santi in Oct. 1677. On opening the box, it was found to contain the nearly perfect skele- ton of a man of Dante's age at the time of his death, and stature. It was subsequently ascertained that the urn in the mausoleum was empty, or only contained a few small bones, and which were wanting to complete the skeleton in the wooden box ; fun her docu- mentary evidence has been since produced to show that these were probably the remains of Dante, but no clue has been yet discovered as to the circumstances that caused the removal. Perhaps it was brought about by the fear of the friars to whose care these precious relics had been entrusted that the Florentines might one day succeed in getting back the remains of their great countryman, as they had at- tempted on three different occasions, and especiallj'in 1519, when they petitioned LeoX., himself a Florentine, in a document 1o which the great name of Michel Angelo was affixed, offering to erect a monument to the Divine Poet in his native town, with the following characteristic subscription : — " lo Michelagnolo schultore, il medessimo a vostra Santita, sup- plico offerendomi al divin poeta fare la sepul- tura nuova chon decente e in locho onerevole in questa citta." The bones found in the wooden box were placed in Lombardo's urn in the mausoleum with great pomp and exulta- tion, the poet being now considered the symbol of a United Italy. The wooden box itself has been removed to the public library. mentioned. Chateaubriand is said to have knelt bareheaded at the door before he entered ; Byron deposited on the tomb a copy of his works ; and Alfieri prostrated himself before it, and embodied his emotions in one of the finest sonnets in the Italian language : — gran padre Alighier, se dal ciel miri Me tuo discepol no indegno stormi, Dal cor traeudo profondi sospiri, Prostrato innanzi a' tuoi funerei marmi, &c. Lord Byron's lines referring to the tomb of the poet and the monumental column of Gaston de Foix will occur to the reader : — 1 canter by the spot each afternoon AVhere perished in his fame the hero-boy ^Vho lived too long for men, but died too soon For human vanity, the young De Foix ! A broken pillar, not unco'ithly hewn, But which neglect is hastening to destroy, Piecords itavenna's carnage on its face. While weeds and ordure rankle round the base. I pass each day where Dante's bones are laid: A little cupola, more neat than solemn, Protects his dust, but reverence here is paid To the bard's tomb, and not the warrior's column : The time must come when both, alike de- cay'd, The chieftain's trophy, and the poet'a volume, "Will sink where lie the songs and wars of earth. Before Pelides' death, or Homer's birth. With human blood that column was ce- mented, With human filth that column is defiled. As if the peasant's coarse contempt were vented To show his loathing of the spot he soil'd. Thus is the trophy used, and tlms lamented Should ever be those bloodhounds, from whose wild Instinct of gore and glory earth has known Those sufferings Dante saw in hell alone. Near the tomb of Dante is the house occupied by Lord Byron, whose name and memory are almost as much associated with Ravenna as those of the great " Poet-Sire of Italy." He declared himself more attached to Ravenna than to any other place, except Greece ; he praised " its de- lightful climate," and says he was never tired of his rides in the pine- forest ; he liked Ravenna, moreover, because it was out of the beaten track 414 Houte 97. — Bavenna : ArclibisJiojj's Palace. of travellers, and because he found the higher classes of its society well educated and liberal beyond what was usually the case in other continental cities. He resided in it ratlier more than two years, " and quitted it with the deepest regret, and with a presenti- ment that his departure would be the forerunner of a thousand evils. He was continually performing generous actions : many families owed to him the few prosperous days they ever enjoyed : his arrival was spoken of as a piece of public good fortune, and his departure as a public calamity." The house of Lord Byron is now a Cafe at the corner of the Via Giuseppe Mazzini and the Piazza Byron (E. 4) ; it was here that our great poet resided for eight months after his arrival in Ravenna on the 10th of June, 1819. Over the entrance has been placed the following inscription commemorative of the fact : — " II x Giugno mdcccxix, come appena giunse in Ravenna, entrava questa casa, allora Grande Albergo, e que otto mese abitava, Giorgio Byrox, Poeta Inglese, Lieto delle Vicinanze al Sepolcro di Dante, Impaziente di visitare I'Antica Selva, che inspire gik il Divino e Giovanni Boccaccio." He subsequently removed to the Palazzo Guiccioli, in the Via Porta Adriana, now Cavonr (D. 3), where he continued to reside until his departure for Pisa at the end of Oct. 1821. The ' Prophecy of Dante' was composed here, at the suggestion of the Countess Guiccioli ; and the trans- lation of the tale of ' Francesca da Rimini ' was " executed at Ravenna, where five centuries before, and in the very house in which the unfortunate lady was born, Dante's poem had been composed." The ' Morgante Mag- giore,' ' Marino Faliero,' the fifth canto of 'Don Juan,' 'The Blues,' 'Sardanapalus,' 'The Two Foscari,' * Cain,' ' Heaven and Earth,' and the 'Vision of Judgment,' were also written during his residence at that place Of old renown, once in the Adrian sea, Ravenna ! where from Dante's sacred tomb He had so oft, as many a verse declares, Drawn inspiration. Jiogers. The *Archbishop's Palace, E. of the Cathedral, is one of the most in- teresting edifices in Ravenna to the Christian antiquary. The Chapel is the one which was built and used by St. Peter Chryso- logus in the 5th cent., without altera- tion : no profaning hand has yet been laid on its altar or mosaics. The walls are covered with large slabs of marble, and the ceiling still retains its mosaics as fresh as when they were first executed. On the vault are the Evangelists, with their symbols ; on the inside of the arches, the Saviour; opposite, the Virgin, each flanked with six Apostles ; on the rt., female Saints; on the 1., males. Behind the altar, the Virgin, be- tween heads of SS. Vitalis and Apolli- naris — to the rt., the Saviour— for- merly in the tribune of the Cathedral. In the Vestibule is a collection of ancient Roman and Christian inscrip- tions, marbles, capitals, and reliefs, with other fragments of antiquity. Boy and Girl with a vase ; large torso in porfido rosso; outside a window, fine column of pavonazzeito hrecciato. In the " Appartamento Nobile" is a bust of Cardinal Capponi by Bernini, and of S. ApoUinaris by TJjoricaldsen. On the .3rd floor is the small Archi- episcopal library, which still retains the celebrated MS. on papyrus whose extraordinary size and preservation have made it known to most literary antiquaries : it is a brief of the 12th cent., by which Pope Pascal II. con- firmed the privileges of the arch- bishops. The most ancient diplomas preserved in these archives are said to date from the 5th cent. The Museo Nazionale occupies the buildings of the Carthusian monas- tery of Classe, including the Church of S. Romualdo. On the first floor is the Biblioteca Comunale, founded by Abbot Caneti in 1714, and subse- quently enriched by private munifi- cence and by the libraries of sup- pressed convents. It is lodged in a fine hall, followed by several smaller ones, and contains upwards of 50,000 Houie 97. — JRavenna: 3Iuseum. 415 vols., 700 MSS., and a large collection of first editions of the 15th cent. Among its MS. collections, the most precious is the celebrated Aristoplinnes, copied in the I'lth cent, by Cyrillus Machirius, a Florentine, long known as unique. It is said tliat Eugene Beauharnais wished to purchase this MS. ; but the inhab., being resolved not to lose so great a rarity, concealed the volume. A MS. of Dante, on vellum, with good initial miniatures, of the 14th cent. ; another Dante, of still earlier date ; a small OJJjrhim, most beautifully written on parchment, with lovely miniatures of histories of Christ, of the 14th cent., ending with an invocation to all the saints to relieve its writer from his worldly ail- ments, amongst which his toothache is particularly mentioned ; and another Officium, with numerous illumina- tions, &c., on violet vellum, especially one of the Crucifixion. Among the j^rinceps editions, which range from 14G5 to 1.500, are the Decretals of BonifaceVIII., on vellum, 1465 ; Pliny the Younger, on vellum, 2 \o\s., Venice, 1468; the Bible, tcith miniatures, on hid, 1478 ; >S'^. Augustine, De Clvitate Dei, 1468; the Dante of Lodovico and Alberto Piemontesi, 1478. Among the miscellaneous collection may be no- ticed, the History of the Old and Neio Testament, in Chinese, jjrinted on sill:, and a series of upAvards of 4000 rolls, beginning with the 11th and ending with the last cent., chiefly relating to the Canons of Sta. Maria in Porto. The MDSEU3I consists of several rooms, forming a suite to those of the Library, and, besides a good mis- cellaneous collection of vases, idols, bronzes, majolica, and carved work in ivory, contains a rich cabinet of medals, ancient and modern. The ancient are arranged in three classes : 1. Medals of the free cities; 2. Consular; and 3. Imperial. In the 2nd class is a *bronze one of Cicero, struck by the town of Magnesia, in Lydia : it bears on one side his profile and name in Greek characters, and on the other a hand holding a crown with a branch of laurel, an ear of corn, and a bunch of grapes, with the inscription iu Greek " Theodore of the Magnesians, near Mount Sipylus." It is supposed to be a unique specimen. There is a very interesting series of the coins of the Sovereigns of the Western Empire found about Ravenna, especially golden ones of Galla Placidia with a cross on the obverse, of Valentinian III., Anastasius, Heraclius, &c., with Christian emblems. The modern col- lection isalso arranged in three classes : 1. Medals of the Popes from Gregory III. ; 2. Medals of illustrious person- ages and of royal dynasties ; 3. Coins of various Italian cities. In the 1st class is a fine medal of Benedict III., interesting because it is considered conclusive as to the fable of Pope Joan. In the 2nd class is a complete series of bronze medals of the House of Medici, 84 in number, of a uniform size. Among the ivories one is re- markable as representing several of the miracles which are seen in the paintings on the Catacombs at Kome, such as Jonas, the raising of Lazarus, the raising of the Paralytic, &c., with two venerable figures in the centre. The Museum also contains portions of beautiful gold ornaments of ancient armotxr, discovered some years ago in excavating the new docks on the canal ; they are supposed to have be- longed to Odoacer, whose tomb may have been hereabouts ; unfortunately the greater part of them were melted down : also a beautiful tabernacle of lapis lazuli and precious marbles. The Eefectory, a fine hall, with good carved wooden ceiling and doors, contains one of the elder Longhis best works, a *fresco of the Marriage in Cana, into which he has introduced his own portrait and several of his Ravennese contemporaries. The veil thrown over the woman on the 1. of Christ was added by his daughter Barbara, to satisfy the scruples of S. Carlo Borromeo, then legate here. On the ceiling are Camaldoli monks, by Francesco, son of Luca Longhi. The Chukch of S. Romualdo has been fitted up as a museum of Byzan- tine and Roman sculptures, with other 41G Itoute97. — Uavenna : Gates. antiquities, including a remarkable capital from tlie ruined Church of S. Michele in Africisro. There is also an exquisitely perforated panel of a can- cello (altar railing), with a gilt cross in the centre. In the transepts are Ke- naissance works, and in the chapels of the nave some second-rate pictures. In the cloisters are several inscrip- tions, both pagan and early Christian, most of which were found about Ra- venna ; and a series of Roman tiles, or Signa Tegularia, bearing the makers' names. On one of these tiles is the impression of a sandal, very like the sole of a modern shoe with its hob- nails. Here also has been set up the old doorway of the Convent of S. M. in Porto. The adjacent Accademia delle Belle Arti (10 to 2, 75 c.) contains a good collection of plaster casts of ancient and modern sculpture ; attached to it are schools of design for young artists. On the rt. of the entrance is a room with pictures, including a Virgin and Child, with SS. Benedict, Apollonia, Barbara, and Paul ; a portrait of Carlo Arrigoni ; an Adoration of the Shep- herds ; a Pietti, with the Abbot of Classe and S. Hartholomew ; and a small Virgin with the sleeping Child, all by Liica Longhi ; Martyrdom of the Quattro Incoronati, by Ligozzi ; and a great number of small paintings of the Byzantine School. On the floor is a fine mosaic pavement, found at Classe, with a vase of tlowers and peacocks in the centre. In a room upstairs is tlie beautiful recumbent *effigy ofGuidnrello Guidarelli, called Braccioforte, formerly at San Fran- cesco, and a Virgin and Child, with SS. Thomas Aquinas, Mary Magd., Catharine, and John Bapt., by lion- dinclU. The Palazzo Giulio Easponi (K. 3) has a ceiling painted with the death of Camilla, queen of the Volsci, by Agricola. The queen is the portrait of Queen Caroline Murat, one of whose daughters married into the Rasponi family. In a corridor upstairs are two good paintings by Liica Longhi— a. Co- ronation of the Virgin with Angels, and a portrait of a man with a dog. There is also a small Virgin and Children, with SS. Jerome, Mary Magd., John Evan., and Francis, and the Pietli above, by an unknown master. The Hospital, attached to the Church of S. Giovanni Evangelista (D. 6), was founded by Archbishop Codronchi in 1826. In the court is a cistern said to have been designed by Michel Angelo. The handsome Teatro Alighieri (22, D. 5) was opened in 18.50. GATES. Porta Adriana (C 2), a handsome entrance of the Doric order, was erected in 1585, on the supposed site of the famous Porta Aurea, built under Claudian and ruined by the Emp. Frederick II. Porta Alberoni (E. 8) was built by Cardinal Alberoni in 1739. Imme- diately outside of it are the modern port of Ravenna and the road leading to the harbour on the Adriatic and to the Pineta. Porta S. Mamante (G. 5), of the Tuscan order, so called from a neigh- bouring monastery dedicated to S. Mama, was built in 1612. Near this the French army of 1512 efi'ected the breach in the walls by w^hich they entered and sacked the city. Porta Nuova (G. 7), designed by Bernini, in the Corinthian order, oc- cupies the site of the P. San Lorenzo, rebuilt in 1653 under the name of P. Pamfilia, in honour of Innocent X., by whose arms it is surmounted. The road from it leads through the Borgo of Porta Nuova to the Basilica of S. Apollinare in Ciasse. Porta Sisi (G. 5), in the Doric style, was rebuilt in its present form in 1568. * Boute 97. — Bavenna : Environs. 417 Porta Serrata (B. 5), so called be- cause it was closed by the Venetians during their possession of Ravenna, was reopened by Julius II. under the name of P. Giulia. The Fortress (B. 6) was erected by the Venetians in 1457, and then es- teemed one of the strongest in Italy : it was partly demolished in 1735 to furnish materials fortlie Ponte Nuovo over the united stream of the Ronco and Montone, and little now remains but the foundations. ENVIRONS. The Port of Eavenna (C, D. 8), much frequented by coasting craft, consists of a long basin, with quays on either side; from it commences the canal that leads to the Adriatic. 4 m. distant, on the canal, is the hut where Garibaldi was concealed after his retreat from Rome in 1849. The length of this canal is about 7 m., and a broad road has been made along its rt. bank, which contributes much to the accommodation of the city. The *Mausoleum of Theodoric, more generally known as S. M. della Rotonda, is about half a mile from the Porta Sen-ata, immediately beyond the Rly. It was erected by Amalasuntha, daughter of Theodoric, in the 6th cent. On the expulsion of the Arians, the zeal of the Church in promoting the Catholic worship ejected the ashes of the king a.- a heretic, and despoiled his sepulchre of its ornaments (Gibbon, c. 39). It is built of blocks of limestone fromlstria, resting on a decagonal basement, each side of which has a recess surmounted by an arch formed of 11 blocks of stone curiously notched into each other. A double oblique flight of steps leads to the upper story, or sepulchral chamber ; they were added to the building in 1870. The upper story is also decagonal externally, and appears to have been sui-rounded by columns forming a circular portico, several of the bases of which were N. Italy. discovered in digging out the ditch that now surrounds the building. In one of the sides is the door. Over this is a broad projecting band en- circling tlie monument, above which is a row of small windows, the whole surmounted by a massive cornice, with rudely-sculptured reliefs. The vault stones of the doorway are curiously notched into each other, forming a straight arch or lintel. The roof is formed of a single block of limestone containing fossil shells, 36 feet in its internal diameter, hollowed out to the depth of 10, in the shape of an inverted bowl ; the thickness of the centre is about 4 ft., and of the edges about 2 ft. 9 in. The Aveight of this enormous mass is esti- mated at above 200 tons. On the out- side are 12 pointed projections per- forated as if designed for handles ; they bear the names of the Apostles, but it is difficult to conceive how any statues could have stood on them ; they more probably served in moving this huge solid mass of Istrian marble — indeed, these names look compara- tively recent. The summit is flat, and upon it may have stood a statue of the Gothic king. It is now divided into two unequal portions by a large crack, produced, it is supposed, by lightning. The interior of the upper chamber is circular, with a niche opposite the door, in v.hich probably stood a sepulchral urn, although, when carefully examined on the outside, it appears to have been added after the mausoleum was finished. The cham- ber in the basement is in the form of a Greek cross ; the fine door opening into it, as well as that to the sepul- chral one above, is turned towards the west. The Church of S. M. in Porto Fuori, 3 m. S.E. of the city, was built in the Gothic style towards the end of the 11th cent, by the Beato Pietro Onesti, called II Feccatore, in fulfil- ment of a vow to the Virgin made during a storm at sea. In the nave on the 1, is the ancient sarcophagus in which the body of the founder was deposited in 1119. It was believed 2 E 418 Boute 97. — Havcuna : S. AjyoUinare in Classe. that the entire Church Tvas once covered with frescoes by Giotto, and tlie choir and E, cliapcls still retain some admirable *frescoos by liis pupils. On the 1. wall are the Nativity and Presentation of the Virgin; the rt. wall contains the Death, Assumption, and Coronation of the Virgin, with the Massacre of the Innocents below. Under the arches are heads of Apos- tles; below, SS. Paul and Peter; in front of the chancel arch, liiualdo and Anthony the Abbot ; on the ceiling, the Evangelists with their symbols, and Doctors of the Church. The last figure on the rt. in the Presenta- tion fresco is said to be a portrait of Giotto; on the opposite wall, looking out of the window, Francesca da Eimini. Chapel on the 1., Pope Giovanni asking permission of Theo- doric to build a church ; Theodoric puts him in prison. On the E. M-all, a good figure of St. James. Chapel on the rt., Calling of St. Matthew above. Healing of Lepers below. At the end of the apse, 1. the three Maries, rt. the Unbelief of Thomas. Under the E. arch, heads of virgin saints. The quadrangular basement of the Campanile is considered to be the lower part of the ancient light-house ipliaros) of the port, from which the Church derives its name. From this Church the pedestrian may walk in i hr. along the bank of the canal to the Ponte Nuovo (see below). **S. Apollinare in Classe. — This magnificent Basilica is a purer speci- men of early Christian art than any which can be found even in Pome. It lies on the road to Eimini, 3 m. beyond the Porta Nuova, and may be reached by train from ^lay to Oct., but only in one direction. (See Time Table.) Carriage there and back, returning by S. Maria in Porto Fuori, b fr. About J m. beyond the Gate stood the splendid Basilica of S. Lanrentius in Cemrea, founded (a.d, 39 G) by Lauritius, chamberlain of the Emp. Honorius, and destroyed in 1553 to supply materials for the Church of S. M. in Porto within the city. This act of spoliation was opposed by the citizens ; but the monks to whom the basilica belonged had obtained the consent of the pope, and the cardinal legate, Capi di FeiTO, completed the work of Vandalism by sending all its columns excepting two (see above), together with its precious marbles, to Pome. The ancient basilica Avas the last relic of the city of Cesarea, which had existed from the time of Augus- tus. Nearly 2 m. from Eavenna, the united stream of the Konco and ]Mon- tone is crossed by the Ponte Nuovo, a bridge of five arches, erected while Cardinal Al- beroni was legate of Pomagna. The road crosses the marshy plain, with its unhealthy rice-fields, towards the pine-forest and the grand basilica of S. Apollinare in Classe, erected in 534, by Julianus Argeutarius, on the site of a temple of Apollo, and conse- crated by Archbishop St. Maximianus in 549. It formerly had a quadri- porticus in front, of which, however, no portion now remains. It is built of thin bricks or tiles, in the manner of Roman edifices of classical times. Over the door may be seen the bronze hooks used to sustain the awning on festivals. The interior, 173 ft. by 93, is divi- ded by 24 elegant columns of grey marble (greco rigato), with horizontal markings, into a nave and aisles of lofty and imposing proportions. The columns, which rest on square pedes- tals, are surmounted by punctured capitals, on which again rest quad- rangular imposts, with crosses sculp- tured on the sides towards the nave. Above the round arches is a clerestory of double semicireular windows. A fiight of broad steps leads to the triliune, which is circular internally, and polygonal on the outside. The floor of the nave is green with damp ; and the subterranean chapel of the saint, beneath the high altar, is often filled with water. The walls are decorated with a chronological series of portraits of bishops and archbishops itoute 97. — Ravenna: of Eavenna, beginning v^'iih St. Apol- liuaris of Antioch, a follower of St. Peter, who suffered martyrdom under Vespasian, a.d. 74. These portraits were painted at a comparatively modern period ; they come down in unbroken succession to the last arch- bishop, who is tlie 129th prelate from the commencement. The mosaics which originally occupied their place disappeared with the marbles which once covered the walls of the aisles, when the latter were carried off by Sigismondo Malatesta, to adorn his Church at Rimini. In the middle of the nave is a small marble altar, dedicated to the Virgin, " Martyrum Eeginge," by St. Maximianus, in the 6th cent. ; beneath lay the body of St. Apollinaris, until removed to the crypt in 1174. In each aisle are four marble sarcophagi of archbishops, covered with reliefs and Christian symbols ; the 1st 1. is that of S. Felix, the 4th that of Johannes V. On the wall in the middle of the N. aisle is an inscription, which seems not to be older than the 18th cent., beginning, "Otho III. EoM. Imp.," and recording how, as a proof of his remorse for the murder of Crescentius, " ob patrata crimina," he walked barefooted from Rome to I\Ionte Gargano, and passed the 40 days of Lent in this basilica, "expiating his sins with sackcloth and voluntary scourging." At the end of the aisle is the chapel of the Holy Cross, and near its entrance a very curious tabernacle of the 7th cent., over the 14th-cent. altar of S. Felicola, raised by Petrus, a presbyter. A little further W. is an ancient capital, used as a holy water basin. Two of the sar- cophagi in the S. aisle contain the remains of Graziosus of the 8th and Theodosius of the 7tli cent. All these tombs stood originally under the portico in the fore-court. An inscrip- tion on the wall of this aisle, opposite the other, records that the body of St. Apollinaris formerly was de- posited behind a grating in it. On each side of the grand entrance is a sarcophagus of marble, larger than the preceding, but covered with similar ornaments and symbols. S. Ajpollinare in Classe. 419 The high altar, beneath which rests the body of the saint, is rich in marbles and other ornaments ; the modern canopy over it is supported by four columns of the rare marble known as hianco e nero antico. The ancient episcopal chair of S. Damianus has been divided, to form ends for a species of sediJia. The tribune, and the arch in front of it, are covered with *]MosAics of the Gth cent., in fine preservation. The upper part on the vault represents the Transfiguration ; the hand of the Almighty is seen pointing to a small figure of the Saviour introduced into the centre of a large cross, on a blue circular ground studded with stars. On the top of the cross is the Greek mono- gram for " Jesus Christ, the Saviour, the Son of God." On the arms are the Alpha and Omega ; and at the foot the words " Salus Mundi." Out- side the circle, and on either side of the hand, are Moses and Elijah ; below are three sheep, indicating the Apostles — Peter, James, and John — who witnessed the Transfiguration. In the centre is St. Apollinaris, in his episcopal robes, preaching to a flock of sheep — a common em- blem of a Christian congregation. Between the windows are portraits of SS. Ecclesius, Servius, Ursus, and Ursicinus, in pontifical robes, blessing the people. On the 1. wall is repre- sented Abp. Reparatus obtaining pri- vileges for his diocese from the Emperor Constantinus Pogonatus, who is seen in the centre of the composi- tion, with Reparatus and ecclesiastics, to whom the Emperor delivers a scroll, on which is inscribed the word PriviJegia. On the rt. wail the sacrifices of the Old Law : Abel, who offers the lamb, Melchizedec the bread and wine, and Abraham his son Isaac. On the W. face of the arch is a series of five mosaics : above, the Saviour, and the symbols of the Evan- gelists ; lower down, the cities of Bethlehem and Jerusalem, from which a number of the faithful, under the form of sheep, are ascending towards our Lord ; beneath the cities is a palm, the symbol of victory ; then 2 e'2 420 Boute 07. — Bavenna: S. Apollinare in Classe. follow the archangels Michael and Gabriel, and half-figures of St. Mat- thew and St. Luke, all the subjects being divided by handsome mosaics of arabesque ornaments. In the crypt, wliich is entered by passages from either side, is the sepulchral urn of St. Apolliuaris. This urn contained the remains of the saint from 1174 until 1725, when tliey were placed beneath the high altar. The open stone book close to the S. entrance is called the breviary of Gregory the Great. The round Bell-tower is a fine ex- ample of a style of campanile peculiar to Ivaveuna ; it is entirely of brick, 120 ft. high, and can be ascended through the sacristy by a series of ladders to a height of 100 ft. ; from the top the view is very fine, em- bracing the pine-forest and the sea beyond to the E. ; to the S. the Apen- nines, with Cesena and Bertinora at their base; and, in fine wiather, the Alps of the Tyrol and Styria on the N. The tower contains only two small bells. The ancient town of Classis, of which this noble basilica is the re- presentative, was one of the three quarters of Ravenna in the time of Augustus. It was, as its name im- ports, the station of the Eoman fleet, though now 4 m. distant from the sea. Classe was totally destroyed in 728 by Liutprand, king of the Lombards. The celebrated and most interesting *PiNETA, or Pine Forest (Fi)ius Pinea), was seriously injured by the Severe winter of 1880, It lies nearly ." ra. beyond the Basilica, and the Ely. to Eimini skirts it as far as Cervia. It may be reached also by a road which passes the tomb of Theodoric, or through the Porta Alberoni. This venerable forest ex- tends along the shores of the Adriatic for a distance of 25 m., from the Lamone N. of Eavenna to Cervia on the S., and covers a sandy tract, vary- ing in breadth from 1 to 3 m,, thrown up by the sea, and separating it from the inundated region on the W. It aifords abur.dant sport ; and the produce of its coues yields a considerable revenue. No forest is more renowned in classical and poetical inteivst ; its praises have been sung by Dante, I'.occaccio, Drj den, and Byron ; it supplied Eome Avith timber for her fleets ; and upon the masts which it produced the banner of Venice floated in the days of her supremacy. One part of the forest still retains the name of the Vicole de Foeti, from a tradition that it is the spot where Dante loved to medi- tate (Furg. xxviii. 20). Boccaccio made the Pineta the scene of his singular tale Nostagio degli Onesti, the incidents of which, end- ing in the amoi'ous conversion of the ladies of Ravenna, have been made familiar to the English reader by Dryden's adoption of them in his Theodore and Honoria. Count Ganiba relates that the first time he had conversation with Lord Byron on the subject of religion was while riding through this forest in 1820. " The scene," he says, " invited to religious meditation ; it was a fine day in spring. 'How,' said };yron, ' raising our eyes to heaven, or directing them to the earth, can we doubt of the existence of God ? — or how, turning them to what is within us, can we doubt that there is something more noble and durable tlun the clay of which we are formed?'" The Pineta inspired also these beautiful lines in the 3rd canto of Bon Juan : — Sweet hour of twilig'at ! — in Ihe solitude Of the pine forest and the silent shore ■ ^^'hich bounds Ilavmna's immemorial wood, m Eoi ted where once the Adrian wave flow'd o'er, To where the last Ca^sarean fortress stood, Evergreen forest ! which Boccaccio's lore And Dryden's lay made haunted ground to me, How have I lov'd the twilight hour and thee ! ^ The shrill cicalas, people of the pine, Making their summer lives oneceasehss song, "Were the solo echoes, i-ave my steed's and mine. And vesper bells that rose the boughs along : The spectre huntsman of Onesti's line, His hell-dojLS, and their chase, and the fair throng "Which Icaru'd from his e^- ample not to fly From ;i true lover,— shadow 'd my mind's eye. JRoute 97. — Classe — JRi 421 La Colonna de' Frances!. Beyond the Porta Sisi, 2 m. S. of liavenna, on the banks of the Roueo (close to Ponte Cella, the first Stat, of the Forli tram- way), is a square pillar erected in 15.37 by PietroCesi, President of Komagna, as a memorial of the battle gained by the combined army of Louis XII. and the Duke of Ferrara over the troops of Julius II. and the King of Spain, April 11, 1512. Four inscrip- tions on the medallions of the pilaster, and an equal number on the sides of the pedestal, record the events of that memorable day. Lord Byron mentions the engagement and the column in a passage quoted in the description of the tomb of Dante, and commemorates the untimely fate of the heroic Gaston de Foix, who fell in the very moment of victory. The monument of such a terrible engagement, which left 20,000 men dead on tlae field, and made the Chevalier Bayard write from the spot, " If the king had gained the battle, the poor gentlemen have truly lost it," is little funereal or military ; it is ornamented with elegant arabesques of vases, fruit, festoons, dolphins, and loaded with long tautological inscriptions, and one of them is a rather ridiculous ji'e;< de mots. The speech that Guicciardini makes Gaston address to the soldiers on the banks of the Ronco is one of the most lauded of those pieces, diffuse imitations of the harangues of ancient historians. Besides the illustrious captains present at this battle, such as Vittorio and Fabrizio Colonna, the Marchese della Palude, the celebrated engineer, Pedro Navarra, taken prisoners by the French, and Anne de Montmorency, yet a youth, afterwards constable of France under four kings, Avho began his long military career amid this triumph, several per- sons eminent in letters were there — Castiglione and Ariosto ; Leo X., then Cardinal de' Medici, as papal legate to the Spaniards, was taken prisoner. The bard of the Orlando, who has alluded to the horrible carnage he witnessed, must have been powerfully impressed by it to paint his battles with so much tire. In several passages of his poem Ariosto attributes the victory on this occasion to the skill and courage of the Duke of Ferrara. It has been stated that Al- fonso, in reply to an observation that part of the French army was as much exposed to his artillery as the army of the allies, said to his gunners, in the heat of the conflict, " Fire away ! fear no mistake — they are all our enemies ! " Leo X. redeemed the Turkish horse which he rode on that day, and used it in the ceremony of his possessio (taking possession of the tiara at St. John Lateran), celebrated on April 11, 1513, the anniversary of the battle. He had the horse carefully tended till it died, and permitted no one to mount it. — Valery. Ely. W. to Lugo for Bologna (Rte. 99). Tramway to Forli, starting from the Piazza Dante (D. 4, 5). The Rly. onward towards Rimini follows the shores of the Adriatic, but presents few objects of interest, and the sea is generally concealed by banks of sand. The first Stat., after crossing the canal, is that of 49 m. Classe, a little E. of S. Apol- linare (see above). Skirting the Pi- neta, the road crosses the Savio and traverses a pine wood to 60 m. Cervia, an episcopal town (2230), on a small river near the sea, with very extensive salt - works. Another canalized river is crossed before reaching 64 ni. CesenaticOj^the ancient station of Ad Novas, a sea-port, partly sur- rounded with walls. Beyond this we pass some small torrents which have been erroneously supposed to be the^Rubicon. Near 68 m. Bellaria, where the sea is reached, the train crosses the Use, a considerable and rapid stream, de- scending from Sant' Arcangelo. From 75 m. Viserba a fine view is gained of San Marino. 78 m. EIMim (17,000), an interest- ing episcopal city, situated in a rich plain between the rivers Marecchia and Ansa, is much frequented for sea-bathing in July, August, and Sep- tember. About 1 m, N.E., on the shore, 422 Boute 97. — Bimini, is the Stabilimento — an excellently ar- raiified bathing establishment. Kimini occupies the site of the Um- brian city of Ariniimim. It became a Koman colony at an early period, and was patronized and embellished by Julius Casar, Augustus, and many of their successors. Duriu'r the Lower Walker &-lioiiUU. Empire it was the most northern of the cities which gave to a lieutenant of the Emperor of Constantinople the title of "Exarch of the Pentapolis." The cities governed by this exarch were Rimini, Pesaro, Fano, Sinigaglia, and Ancona; his jurisdiction com- prised nearly all that portion of the Route 97. — Bimini : Cathedral. 423 shores of the Adriatic embraced by the modem provinces of Komagna and Le Marche. There was another and more inland Pentapolis, from which this was often distinguished by the epithet "maritima." In 1200, wlien Rimini belonged to the German Em- pire, Otho III. sent into the Marches as his viceroy Malatesta, the ancestor of that illustrious family to which Rimini is indebted for its subsequent importance. His descendant Galeotto was created lord of Rimini by Clement VI. It passed from the Malatesta family to the Venetians by sale, and reverted to the pope after the battle of Gera d'Adda. The Malatesta chief- tains often endeavoured to regain it, but in vain, and the treaties of Tolen- tino and of Vienna confirmed it to the pope. The name of Malatesta re- calls the fine passage of the Inferno in which Dante describes the lord of Rimini as " the old mastiff " : — E il mastin vecchio, e il nuovo da Veruccbio, Che fecor di Montagna il mal governo, La dove soglion fan dei deuti succhio. Inf. xxvii. The old mastiff of Veruccbio and the young. That tore Montagua in their wrath, still make, AVhere they are wont, an auger of their fangs. Gary's Trans. This great mediaeval family has long become extinct ; that of Rome, which has assumed the name, was ennobled at the end of the last cent, by the pope. The celebrated council between the Arians and Athanasians was held here in 359. At the S. extremity of the Corso is the *Arch of Augustus (Porta Romana), one of the most remarkable monuments on the E. coast of Italy, and built of travertine. It was erected in honour of Augustus, and com- memorates the gratitude of the in- habitants for the repairing of their roads. It is simple and massive, with two Corinthian columns on each side ; above the arch are medallions, with the heads of Neptune and Venus on one side, and of Jupiter and Minerva, with a fine bull's head, on the other. The pediment is proportionately small, being scarcely larger than the breadth of the arch : a great part of the superstructure is of the middle ages. In the market-place (Piazza Giulio Cesare), the ancient forum, is a pedestal with an inscription, recording that it served as the suggesium from which Csesar harangued his army after the passage of the Rubicon : — C. C^^SAn DiCT. RUBICONE SUPERATO CiVILI BEL. COMMILIT. SUOS HIC IN FORO AR. ADLOCUT. Near this is an isolated Chapel, on the spot where St. Anthony preached to the people (see below). The *Bridge of Augustus, which spans the Marecchia, the ancient Ari- minus, is still one of the best preserved Roman constructions of its kind in Italy. It was begun by Augustus in the last year of his life, and completed by Tiberius ; it has five arches, and is entirely built of white Istrian lime- stone. The principal have a span of 27 ft., and the width of the piers is nearly 13. The river at this point separates Romagna from the ancient maritime Pentapolis, the modern pro- vince of Urbino and Pesaro. The Church of S. GiulLano, 5 min. further N., has at the high altar a fine martyrdom of St. Julian with the Virgin and Child and SS. Peter and Paul above, by Paolo Veronese. Be- low is the sarcophagus of the Saint, and the stone which was tied round his neck when he was thrown into a well. At the 2nd altar 1. is a curious early picture of the life of St. Julian, in compartments, by Blttino da Faenza, 1357. Over the high altar at S. Girolamo is a large painting of the saint by Guer- cino. Around the Church are nume- rous small subjects in chiaroscuro from the life of St. Jerome. On the rt. of the entrance, a curious Renaissance Holy Water basin in white marble. In the passage, a good relief in terra-cotta of the Saint's Death (18th cent.). The *Cathedral of S. Colomba was originally built in the 14tli cent, in the Italian-Gothic style, but reduced 424 Boufe 97. — Rimini: Cathedral. into its present form by Sisismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, from the designs of Leon Battista Alberti, in 1450. It is considered the master-piece of that architect, and is an interesting link in the history of tlie IJenaissance style. The front, consisting of four fluted half- col urn as and tliree arches, is untin- ished ; but tlie S. side has a series of seven arches on panelled piers de- taclied fi-om tlie wall, elevated on a continued basement, concealing with- out altering the Gothic Aviudows. Under tlie arches are seven large sarcophagi in the mediteval style, Avherein are deposited the ashes of the eminent men whom the Malatesta dukes had collected around them, — • poets, orators, philosophers, and sol- diers. The effect produced by these tombs is as grand as the idea of making them an ornament to his Church was generous and noble. The interior retains much of its original architec- ture in the pointed arches of the nave. To the 1. of the entrance door is a re- cumbent relief of a iNIalatesta Abp. The whole building is covered with the armorial bearings of the Malatesta family ; the most striking and frequent of these ornaments are the rose and elephant, and the united initials of Sigismoudo and his wife Isotta. In the 1st chapel rt., two elephants' heads sustain the figure of the patron saint, Sigismund, placed over the altar, while in the 1st chapel rt. and 1. four large elephants of dark grey marble support tlie elaborately-worked piers of the arch. In the 1st chapel 1. is a fine Malatesta sarcophagus. On the walls of the 1st chapel rt. are some * wonderfully sculptured angels in flat relief, whose complicated draperies and flowing outlines suggest the hand of Agostino di Antonio cli Duccio (1470), who wrought the beautiful front of S. Bernardino at Perugia. In the 2nd chapel (closed), which contains the relics, is an interesting fresco, by Fietro della Francesca, of Sigismondo kneeling before his patron saint, St. Sigismund of Hungary ; be- hind him are two greyhounds, with a view of the castle" ot' Kimini, which he erected. It is signed " Petri di Burgo opus, 1481." Here also is an altar frontal of gold tapestry f^^lGth cent.), with heads of SS. Innocenza and Colomba. Among the sepulchral monuments are those of Sigismondo himself (1408), between the entrance and the 1st chapel ; his favourite wife Isotta, in the 3rd chapel (of S. Michael), in which the statue of the archangel over the altar is said to present her likeness, both by Cififfacpii, a pupil of Donatello ; his brother, '' olim principi nunc protectori " ; his step-son (1468); and the illustrious females of his house, "Malatestorum domus heroidum sepulcrum." In the 3rd chapel rt., the bronze fruits and flowers at the base of the piers are supposed to be by Ghibcrti. In the 2nd chapel 1. is a colossal painting of St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, by Vasari. The pilasters at the en- trance to the principal chapels under a pointed arch, with their low screens, are all worth careful study. At the door of the 2nd rt. is an old broken Chair of S. Gaudentius, patron of the city, and a small sarcophagus, in which were found the bones of several martyrs. The 1st of the arched chapels on each side has on its pilas- ters statuettes in niches ; the 2nd, children in relief on blue ground ; the 3rd, fanciful representations in white relief — on the 1., Months, on the rt., Signs of the Zodiac, probably by Matteo del Fasti. The first two screens are of Greek marble, the third of red Verona. In the Sacristy, a Marriage of the Virgin, by Benedetto Coda, and a Holy Family with SS. Barbara, Jerome, Joachim, and Catha- rine, by Luca Longlii. Kimiui was created a bishopric A.D. 260 ; its first prelate is supposed to have been S. Gaudentius, of whom there is a Statue on the front of the Bishop's Palace. San Marino (or S. Bartolommeo) has on the 1. a painting of the Virgin and Children with SS. Gaudentius and Biagio. Behind the altar are some intarsia stalls, and four scenes from the history of S. jNIarino, interesting only for their subject, Route 97. — Bimini : Excursion to San Marino. 425 The PiN'AcoTECA in the Palazzo del Comune, Piazza Cavour, contains a noble *altar-piece, iu excellent pre- servation, of SS. Dominic, Sebastian and Roch, with piedella of three small subjects, by Domniico GMrlan- claio; a *Pietk, by Giov. Bellini — a delicate and deeply-felt picture (Morelli) ; a Holy Family, ascribed to Ferino del Voga ; Virgin and Child ■with SS. Dominic and Francis, by Benedetto Coda ; SS. Sebastian, Jerome, and Lawrence, of the Umbrian School ; and S. Dominic presenting the rules of his Order to the Pope, with the Madonna and Saints above, School of Tintoretto. An adjoining room has some good tapestries. In the square is a handsome fountain and a bronze Statue of Pope Paul V. The Castel Malatesta, or Fortress, now mutilated and disfigui'ed by un- sightly barracks, bears the name of its founder: the rose and elephant are still traceable upon its walls, with the date 1445. On the ground-floor of the Scuole (Plan 8) is a small Museum of Antiqui- ties, and a Library of 25,000 vols., founded in 1617, by Gambalunga, the celebrated jurist. With the exception of a few classical MSS., and a papyrus known by Marini's commentar}^ the interest of its MS. collection is chiefly local. On the first floor is the Museo Matteini, devoted to Natural History. The house of Francesca da Rimini is unknown. There is no part of the Divina Commedia so full of touching feeling and tenderness as the tale of guilty love which Francesca revealed to Dante. Its interest is increased by the recollection that Francesca was the daughter of Guido da Polenta, lord of Kavenna, who was the friend. and generous protector of Dante dur- ing his exile. The delicacy with ■which she hints her crime in a single sentence is equalled only by the pas- sage where the poet represents him- self as fainting with compassion when he heard the story and the bitter weeping of the condemned shades : — " Noi leggiavamo un giorno per diletfo Di Lancilotto come Amor lo strinse : Soli eravamo, e senz' alcun suspetto. Per pill fiate li occhi ci sospiuso Qiiella lettura, e scolorocd '1 viso ; Ma Bolo im punto fu quel che si viuse Quando leggemrao il disiato riso Esser baciato da cotanto amaiite, yuesti, cbe mai da me non fia diviso, La bocca, mi bacio tutto tremante; Galeotto fu il libro, e cbi lo scrisse — Quel giorno piii nonvi leggemmo avante." "Mentre cbe lo uno spirto questo disso, Jj' altro piangeva si, cbe di pietade lo venni men cosi come io morisse, E caddi, come coipo morto cade. — Inf. v. " We read one day for pastime, s\ated nigb. Of Lancelot, bow luve encbain'd bim too, We were alone, quite unsuspiciously. But oft our eyf s met, and our cbeeks in bue All o'er discoloured by tbat reading were ; But one point only wbolly us o'ertbrew ; Wbeu we read tbe long-sigb'd-for smile of ber, To be tbus kiss'd by such devoted lover, He wbo from me can be divided ne'er Kiss'd my moutb, Irecubling in tbe act all over. Accursed was tbe book and be wbo wrote ! Tbat day no furtber leaf we did uncover." Wbile tbus one spirit told us of their lot, Tbe otber wept, so tbat with pitj 's thralls I swoon'd as if by death I bad been smote, And fell down, even as a dead body falls. Trans, by Lord Byron. The ancient Port, situated at the mouth of the Marecchia, has been gradually destroyed by the sands brought down by that stream ; and the marbles of the Eoman harbour were appropriated by Sigismondo Ma- latesta to the construction of his cathedral. Theodoric is said to have embarked his army in this port for the siege of Ravenna. It is now the re- sort of numerous small vessels occu- pied in the important local fisheries. Close to the river (Plan 5), on the 1. of the road leading to the Port, is the Chapel of S. Antonio, erected on the spot where the Saint preached to the Fishes, because the people would not hear him. EXCURSION TO SAN MARINO. (For Carriages, see Index.') S.W. of Rimini, isolated in the heart of the Emilian Provinces, like the rock on which it stands, is San Marino, long the only surviving re- presentative of Italian liberty. 426 Route 97. — Serravalle — Borgo. This miniature State, the smallest which the -world has seen since the days of ancient Greece, and whose unwritten constitution has lasted for fourteen cen- turies, has retained its independence while all the rest of the peninsiJa, from the spurs of the Alps to the Gulf of Tarauto, has been convulsed by political revolutions. Yet, with all 'this, the Republic, until the j'ear 18-17, made but little proi;-iess, rather studying to pre- serve itself unaltered by communication with its neighbours, tlian keeping pace with the improvements of the age. The printing-press had not then found its way into its territory, mendicity was common, and a gaming-table contributed its share to the public revenues. The constitution of this singular Eepublic underwent an important change iu that year, amidst the imiversal confusion of the Italian States. The general council, which had hitherto been composed pro- miscuously of 60 nobles and plebeians elected by the people, was then trans- formed into a chamber of representa- tives. Every citizen was declared an elector, and the sittings of the chamber were ordered to be public. This chamber now constitutes the legislative body. The voting is by ballot, and two-thirds are necessary to confirm all official acts. A council of 12, two-thirds of whom are changed every year, communicate be- tween the legislative body and two captains— one appointed for the town, the other for the country — who are charged with the executive power, and are elected every sixmonths. Thejudicial office, as in the free to^sTis of Italy in the middle ages, is not confided to a citizen of the Republic, but a stranger, possess- ing a diploma of doctor of laws, is appointed to discharge its functions, and is elected for three years ; a physician and surgeon are also chosen from persons who are not citizens, and are elected for a similar period. In a state so consti- tuted it might be expected that great simplicity of manners would prevail ; hence the chief magistrate Avill often be found farming his own land, and the senators pruning their OAvn vines. The territory of the Republic is 17 sq. m. in extent, its population is under 8000, and its miniature army does not number more than 40 men. Its revenue is about 30,000 fr. (1200^.), and expenses 20,000. The carriage-road quits Rimini by the Via Garibaldi, and runs S. W. The kilometers are measured from the Port. The road is nearly level to 8 m. Serravalle, carrying on a thriving trade with the several towns in the plain. The hill town, finely placed on the rt., is Verucchio. Here commences a somewhat steep ascent to the 12 m. Borgo, at the foot of the rock, where the principal inhab. (500) re- side. Hence a winding carriage- road or direct footpath lead up in | hr. to S. Marino (2635 ft.), on the crest of the rocky mountain which forms so conspicuous an object from the high road (Pop. 900). A rough path along the ridge leads in another h hr. to the Castello. The origin of the Republic is as romantic as its position. According to the legend, a stonemason from Dal- matia, called Marinas, who embraced Christianity, after working 30 years at Rimini, withdi'ew to this mountain to escape the persecutions under Dio- cletian. Leading the life of an austere anchorite, his fame soon spread, and he obtained disciples, as well as a re- putation for sanctity. The princess to whom the mountain belonged pre- sented it to him, and instead of found- ing a Convent, after the example of the time, he established a Republic. During the middle ages the indepen- dence of the state was often threatened by the dangerous vicinity of the ^la- latesta Dukes. In the last cent. Car- dinal Alberoni, then legate of Ro- magna, intrigued against it, and, on the pretence that the government had become an oligarchy, invaded and took possession of its territory in the name of the Head of the Church. An appeal to Clement XII. obtained an order that the citizens should determine how they would be governed : at a general assembly they unanimously voted against submission to the Church, and the papal troops were withdrawn. But the events which subsequently con- vulsed Europe threatened the Republic more than the intrigues of the Church ; and it would doubtless have long since REPUBLIC OF SAN :^ ^ onjdjan, . Ju'tuoiJixj-rajf, AlhamxirLe S: REPUBLIC OF SAN MARINO Boute 97. — Castel di S. Leo. 427 ceased to exist except in history, if it had not been saved by the magnani- mous conduct of Antonio Onofri, who deserved the title of " Father of his country," inscribed by his fellow- citizens upon his tomb. This remark- able man spent his life in its service, and by his bold and decided patriotism induced Napoleon to rescind his decree for the suppression of the Republic. When summoned before the emperor, he said, " Sire, the only thing you can do for us is to leave us just where we are." In spite of all subsequent over- tures, Onofri maintained so perfect a neutrality, that he was enabled to vindicate his country before the Con- gress of Vienna, and obtain the recog- nition of its independence. Unlike other republics, San Marino did not forget its debt of gratitude to the pre- server of its liberties, for, besides the inscription on Onofri's tomb, a marble bust in the council-chamber records his services, and their acknowledg- ment by the state. In more recent times San Marino did not in vain solicit the protection and support of the third Napoleon. There are few objects of interest to be found in San Marino, if we except a picture of the Holy Family in the council-chamber, attributed to Giulio Romano. At Borgo there is a singular cavern, into which a strong current of cold air perpetually rushes from the crevices of the rock. The *view from the summit of the mountain, especially from the castle-tower, from which on a clear morning at sunrise the moun- tains of Dalmatia are visible — is suf- ficient to repay a visit ; on a clear day, the deep gulf of the Adriatic is traced as far as the coast of Dalmatia, and a wide prospect of the chain of the Apennines is commanded, singularly in contrast with the sea view. The late Cav. Borghesi, one of the first classical scholars of modern Italy, made San Marino his place of residence for nearly 40 years. The house in which Melchiore Delfico composed his His- torical Memoirs of the Republic of San Marino t is marked by an inscription t 'Memorie Storiche della Repubblica di San Marino,' 1 vol. 8vo. Milan, 1S04. expressive of the author's gratitude for the hospitality he experienced there during his long exile. A good road leads from the Borgo to (12 m.) S. Leo, but a bridgeless river has to be crossed, which is some- times impassable after rain. | hr. from the I3oi'go a short cut ttirns off to the 1. at a Tavern, rejoining the high road at the foot of the last ascent. — 3 hrs. fast walking from the Borgo to S. Leo. CASTEL DI S. Leo is remarkable as the place where Cagliostro, the cele- brated impostor, died in exile in 1794. Theplace is very picturesquely situated on a rock. Carriage-road thence up the valley of the Marecchia, by Badia Tedalda, to Pieve S. Stefano in the upper valley of the Tiber, and thence by the sanctuary of Alvernia to Bibbiena and Florence. The mountains over which it passes — the AJjye della Luna — are highly picturesque ; the road at its highest point commands a view of both the Adriatic and Mediter- ranean. S. Leo is supposed to occupy the site of a Temple of Jupiter, which stood on the summit of 3Ions ferre- tranus, corrupted into Monte Sferratri. The ^Cathedral of four bays, with slightly pointed arches, has neither triforium nor clerestory. The Chancel is raised upon a double liight of 20 steps, over an ancient Crypt with columns. Close to the door is a very beautiful column of eipollino turned upside down. Opposite the door is a good but ruined painting of the Virgin and Child with SS. Leo and Marino. There is a lofty square detached cam- panile. The Parish Church below has two broken columns of eipollino, and a haldaccliino over its font, supported by four columns of marmo Imezio, taken from the tomb of Duke Orso, now destroyed. Both the churches are built of stone in small courses, and exhibit picturesque bits of work out- side. The highest point is occupied by the Rocca, or Fortress, now a Prison, and lARESrO HepiiJbUc of San. Mn runo + a^uz^ch&s F.S.WeILer.ER.G.S. Boute 97. — Castel di S. Leo. 427 ceased to exist except in history, if it had not been saved by the magnani- mous conduct of Antonio Onofri, who deserved the title of " Father of his country," inscribed by his fellow- citizens upon his tomb. This remark- able man spent his life in its service, and by his bold and decided patriotism induced Napoleon to rescind his decree for the suppression of the Republic. When summoned before the emperor, he said, " Sire, the only thing you can do for us is to leave us just where we are." In spite of all subsequent over- tures, Onofri maintained so perfect a neutrality, that he was enabled to vindicate his country before the Con- gress of Vienna, and obtain the recog- nition of its independence. Unlike other republics, San Marino did not forget its debt of gratitude to the pre- server of its liberties, for, besides the inscription on Onofri's tomb, a marble bust in the council-chamber records his services, and their acknowledg- ment by the state. In more recent times San Marino did not in vain solicit the protection and support of the third Napoleon. There are few objects of interest to be found in San Marino, if we except a picture of the Holy Family in the council-chamber, attributed to Giulio Bomano. At Borgo there is a singular cavern, into which a strong current of cold air perpetually rushes from the crevices of the rock. The *view from the summit of the mountain, especially from the castle-tower, from which on a clear morning at sunrise the moun- tains of Dalmatia are visible — is suf- ficient to repay a visit ; on a clear day, the deep gulf of the Adriatic is traced as far as the coast of Dalmatia, and a wide prospect of the chain of the Apennines is commanded, singularly in contrast with the sea view. The late Cav. Borghesi, one of the first classical scholars of modern Italy, made San Marino his place of residence for nearly 40 years. The house in which Melchiore Delfico composed his His- torical Memoirs of the Republic of San Marinof is marked by an inscription f ' Memorie Storiche delta Repubblica di San Marino/ 1 vol, 8yo. Milan, 1804. expressive of the author's gratitude for the hospitality he experienced there during his Ions: exile. A good road leads from the Borgo to (12 m.) S. Leo, but a bridgeless river has to be crossed, which is some- times impassable after rain. J hr. from the Borgo a short cut turns off to the 1. at a Tavern, rejoining the high road at the foot of the last ascent. — 3 hrs. fast walking from the Borgo to S. Leo, CASTEL DI S. Leo is remarkable as the place where Cagliostro, the cele- brated impostor, died in exile in 1794. The place is very picturesquely situated on a rock. Carriage-road thence up the valley of the Marecchia, by Badia Tedalda, to Pieve S. Stcfano in the upper valley of the Tiber, and thence by the sanctuary of Alvernia to Bibbiena and Florence. The mountains over which it passes — the Al2)e della Luna — are highly picturesque ; the road at its highest point commands a view of both the Adriatic and Mediter- ranean. S. Leo is supposed to occupy the site of a Temple of Jupiter, which stood on the summit of Mons ferre- tranus, corrupted into Monte Sferratri. The *Cathedral of four bays, with slightly pointed arches, has neither triforium nor clerestory. The Chancel is raised upon a double flight of 20 steps, over an ancient Crypt with columns. Close to the door is a very beautiful column of cipollino turned upside down. Opposite the door is a good but ruined painting of the Virgin and Child with SS. Leo and Marino. There is a lofty square detached cam- imnile. The Parish Church below has two broken columns of cipollino, and a haldaccliino over its font, supported by four columns of marmo Lmezio, taken from the tomb of Duke Orso, now destroyed. Both the churches are built of stone in small courses, and exhibit picturesque bits of work out- side. The highest point is occupied by the Rocca, or Fortress, now^ a Prison, and 428 rot always accessible. It contains the Torrione delln Jleghm (wife of Bereii- garius), and the Cella (prison) of Boute 99. — Bologna to Bavenna. Casfel Bolognese Junct., in EOUTE 98. rORTOMAGGIORE TO BOLOGNA. Miles. Stations. Eouteg. Portomaggiore . . 97 9 Molinella 15 Mezzolara 19 Budrio 17 Massalombarda 100 23 Castenaso 30 Bologna 95, 101, 102, 107, 111 The Illy, runs S.W. tlirough a swampy district, and before reaching Molinella crosses the Reno. Thence to Mezzolara on the Mice Nuovo, and S. to Budrio, from which a line runs E. to Masscdomharda for Ravenna, At Castenaso the Savena is crossed, and the lily, turns W. to Bologna (Rte. 95). The terminus of this line is outside the Porta San Vitale (F. 8). ROUTE 99. BOLOGNA TO RAVENNA, BY CASTEL BOLOGNESE AND LUGO. Miles. Stations. r!onte«. Bologna 9S, 101, 102, 107, 111 26 Castel Bolognese . 102 34 Lugo . . . .100 46 Bagnacavallo 53 Ravenna ... 07 Bologna is described in Rte. 95, and the Rly. S.E.E. as far as 26 m. Rte. 102. Here our line turns N.E. and crosses the plain of Romagna. here richly cultivated, to 34 m, Lugo Junct. (8500). This town was raised to municipal rank by Julius II., and confirmed in its privi- leges by Pius VII. It is situated in tlie plain, nearly midway between the Santerno and Senio, on the supposed site of Luctis Diame, whose temple was in the neighbourhood. Its fair (Sept. lst-19th) is said to date from the time of Marcus iEmilius, a proconsul of Ravenna. [Rly. N.W. to Lavezzola.'] [Cotignola, 3 m. S.E. on the banks of the Senio, was the birthplace of Attendolo Sforza (1369), founder of that illustrious house which played so important a part in the history of Italy. It was heie that he threw his pickaxe into the branches of an oak, in order that it might decide, by falling or remaining fixed, whether he should continue a tiller of the ground, or join a company of condot- tieri. The painters Francesco and Bernardino Marchesi, called also Za- ganelli, were born here. Their younger brother, Girolamo Marchesi, is usually known as Cotignola. In the neighbourhood is the ruined castle of Cunio, one of the strongholds of Ro- magna in the middle ages.] Fusignano, 4 m. N., on the 1. bank of the Senio, was the birthplace of Vincenzo Monti (1754), the poet, and of Angela CorelU (1653), the musical composer. The Rly. now crosses the Senio to 38 m. Bagnacavallo (4000), the Roman Tiheriacum, named in honour of Tiberius. Several Roman inscrip- tions, and other antiquities of the time of the Empire, have been dis- covered here. The present town is walled, and M'as formerly famous for its strong castle. It has a Cathedral dedicated to St. Michael, and a Circus Houte 101. — Milan to Bologna. 429 for the game of pallone. This is the birthplace of the painter Bart. Bamen- glii (1484-1542), usually called after his native town. The Rly. crosses the Lamone, and proceeds across the plain to 53 m. Ravenna (Kte. 97). ROUTE 100. LrGO TO LAVEZZOLA. Miles. Stations. Eoutes. Lugo .... 99 6 Massalombarda . 98 10 Conselice 15 Lavezzola ... 97 A short but useful loop line, on the shortest route between Faenza and Ferrara. It runs N.W. as far as MaEsalombarda Junct., where it turns N., and proceeds through Conselice to Lavezzola. PvOUTE 101. MILAN TO BOLOGNA, BY PIACENZA, I'APlMA, KEGGIO, AND MODENA. Miles. Stations. Routes. Milan 2. 18, 32, 51, 53, 54 4 Eogoredo 11 Melegnano 15 Tavazzano 21 Lodi 33 Casalpusterlengo . 57 36 Ccdogno ... 57 43 Fiacenza . 19, 57, 60 49 Pontenure 53 Cadeo 56 Picrenzuola d'Arda 61 Alseno Miles. Stations. Koutes. 65 Borgo S. Donnino 69 Castelguelfo 71 Ponte Tare 79 Parma . 57, 104, 124 86 S. Ilario d' Enza 96 Reggio d' Emilia . 105 8 Scandiano 10 Ventoso 111 Modena . . 103, lOG 16 Vignola 118 Castelfranco 122 Samoggia 127 Lavino 135 Bologna 95, 98, 102, 107, 111 Milan is described in Rte. 51. This line runs S.K. through a country in some parts exceedingly marshy, intersected with numerous canals and streams. The maize (Gran Turco), though beautiful in flower and in ear, is, when ripe, arid in ap- pearance, and ungraceful. (Steam Tramway also as far as Lodi.) The rice- plantations are remarkably unhealthy ; sickly labourers superin- tend the distribution of the water, clad like miners, in coarse clothing. When crossing a canal they are fre- quently obliged to plunge into the water, out of which they come wet and covered with mud, carrying with them germs of fever. They are not the only vic-tims, for the har- vest labourers seldom gather in the crop without being seized with rigors, the air being polluted by the stagnant waters. 4 m. Eogoredo Junct. Here the Illy, to Pavia (Rt. 54) turns off to the rt. [A short distance to the rt., on the Vetabbia, is the very ancient Church of San Giorgio di Kosedo, annexed to a former residence of the Abp. of Milan. It v/as founded in 571, by Alboin, King of the Lombards, and has the remains of a curious fresco. About 1 m. lower down the river stands the *Church of Chiaravalle (1221), the first Cistercian monastery established in Italy (suppressed in 430 Boute 101. — Melegnano — Lodi. 1707). The Order -oas founded by St. Bernard, Abbot of Clairvaux in France. In 1134 he crossed the Alps to attend a council at Pisa, and, on his "vvay back, paid a visit to Milan. His presence- excited the most en- thusiastic feelings ; and within a year after his departure this monastery was built. It is in the Lombard style, and has a very remarkable cen- tral tower. The body of the fabric is left perfectly plain, and sen-es only as a base for the leading features of the design. The tower alone is enriched. Octagonal, in three stories, decreasing upwards, and pierced with oblong circular arches, it is sur- mounted by a circular brick spire. The octagonal portions are enriched with Lombard galleries, which give an appearance of lightness, and at- tract the eye to that part of the build- ing on which it is intended to rest. The spacious Church is damp, de- serted, and defaced by whitewash^ but interesting from its connection with the history of Becket. The double row of 15th-cent. stalls is ex- ceedingly beautiful ; but their reliefs, representing events in the life of St. Bernard, were much injured in 1848, when the Church was used as barracks. At the top of the great staircase to the rt. of the choir is a fresco by B. Luini. This monastery was the favourite retirement of Ottone Visconti, the cele- brated Abp. of Milan, who died in it. His tomb is still shown ; beneath the inscription are shields of arms, amongst which are the fleurs-de-lys of France. Behind the choir are several monu- ments of the powerful family of the Torriani, who selected it for their last resting-place. Here lies Pagano della Torre (1-2-tl), the most distinguished of his race, and near him scA'eral of his descendar.ts. This family was at the head of the popular party, and for two or three generations governed Milan, keeping the nobles in subjec- tion. The country round was reclaimed by the labours of the Cistercians, who were in agriculture almost what the Benedictines were in literature. They invented the system of artificial meadows, called ])raU di MarciUi, to which Lombardy owes so much of its prosperity.] 11 m. Melegnano (4000), on the Lambro, Steam Ti-amway S.E. to SanV Angela. Here, onthe 14th Sept., 1515, Francisl. won, in the first year of his reign, the victorv' by which he acquired a transient and delusive glory. Having invaded the Milanese territory for the purpose of asserting his chimerical rights, he was attacked at Melegnano by the Swiss, to whom the defence of the Milanese terri- tory had been entrusted. The battle -was continued with great obstinacy during three entire days, and the Swiss were at length compelled to retreat, in good order, but leaving 1G,000 dead upon the field. Melegnano was also the scene of a hard-fought battle on the 7th June, 1859, between the French and Austrians, in which both sides suffered severely ; the French commanded by Jlarshal Bara- guaj' d'Hilliers, the Austrians by Benedek, forming the rear-guard of the army retreating after the disaster of Magenta. Beyond Tavazzano we cross the Muzza, one of the many canals of irrigation with which this district abounds. The carriage road, on the approach to Lodi, is raised upon a causeway above the plain. A tine avenue of plane-trees borders it on either side. 21 m. LODI (Ui,O0O). The original settlement of the citi- zens, Lodi VeccJuo, is about 5 m. E. It was founded by the Boii, and having been colonised by Cneius Pompeius Strabo, father of Pompey the Great, the citizens called it Laus Fompria. Cicero calls it simply Laua. The conversion of Laus into Lodi shows how, by the employment of the obliqtie cases, the Latin language was corrupted into the modern dialect. The men of Lodi were the constant] rivals of the Milanese, who, in 1111, entirely destroyed the citj'. " The aui- Boufe lOl.—Lodu 431 mosity bet-n'een Milan and Lodi was of very old standing. It originated, ac- cording to Arnulf, in the resistance made by the inhabitants of the latter city to an attempt made by Abp. Eriberfc to force a bishop of his own nomination upon them. The bloodshed, plunder, and conflagrations which had ensued would, he says, fill a volume, if they were related at length." — JIaUam. After the destruction of Milan, the Lodigiani, who had fled to Pizzighetone, came (1158) before Barbarossa, as sup- pliants, weeping and bearing crosses, and requesting a home ; and accordingly he gave them a village then called Monteguizone, granting them investiture by the delivery of a banner. The spot is said to have been fixed upon by Frederick himself; it v>\'i3 defended by the river Adda, and lies in a tract of exuberant fertility : thus arose the modern city. The inhabitants removed from the ancient city the relics of their patron saint, Bassianus, which they deposited in the Duomo, a Lombard building, of which the interior has been modern- ised. The porch is supported by griffins ; perhaps not only tlie design, but even a part of the materials, may have been brought from old Lodi. This is certainly the case with respect to a relief cf the Last Supper, a re- markable monument of early Christian art, anterior to the settlement of the Lombards. The eyes are of enamel. Some paintings in fr.mjjfra on the walls near the high altar are by Guglielmo and Alberto da Lodi. The Church of the Incoronata, by Giov. Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, began in 147G, is a beautiful specimen of the Renaissance. It is an octagon, and contains exquisite decorations, on ceiling and walls, and carved Can- toria. Here are some good paintings of Calisto Putzza, usually called Calisto da Lodi, born here early in the IGth cent. He was an imitator of Titian, and "a very unoriginal artist," Cic. The subjects are the Passion, the Life of St. John the Baptist, and that of the Virgin : the heads have great beauty. The Church of S. Francesco, a good Gothic edifice (14th cent.), lias some old frescoes, and rich decorations. The Piazza, surrounded by arches, is fine of its kind. The terrible passage of the Bridge of Lodi, and the heroic conduct of the young Bonaparte at the head of his grenadiers, INIay 10th, 1796, need no commemoration. The bridge was on the eastern side of the city, over the Adda, and has been rebuilt. Steam Tramway S.W.W. to Favia, N. to Treviglio, passing (8 m.) Castel Pandino, a magnificent pile, once the stronghold of the Visconti, built in the same style and time as that of Pavia. Steam Tramway also N.E.E. to Crema and Brescia. The Lodi district is the chief coun- try for the production of the cheese itsually called Parmesan. In the country it is called Formaggio di Grana. The territory in which the cheese is produced is -20 m. wide from Pavia to Milan and Lodi, and double that in lengtli from Abbiategrasso, near the Ticino, to Codogno, near the confluence of the Adda and Po. The cows set apart for this production are about 80,000. It is seldom found pro- fitable to rear them in the country ; they come from the cantons of central Switzerland. They are brought at the age of 3 to 4 years, between Oct. and March, and give milk abundantly for about seven years. More than 12,000 are imported every year. After 7 years they are worn out and sold. The cheese produced from a cow is, on an average, 340 lbs. in a year. It is sold twice a year, in May and Sept. The average price is from 92 to 100 fr. for 171 lbs. The total production of the year is about 12,500 tons. After two or three years' seasoning in the warehouses of the merchants, which are principally at Codogno, province of Lodi, and Cor- sico, province of Milan, the weight of the cheese is diminished 5 per cent. The whole of the better kind is sent out of the country. The quantity ex- ported to Great Britain is compara- tively small. Three kinds of pasture are lased for the cows; viz. the Tna re /fo (flooded 432 Houte 101. — Casal^iistcrJcngo — Pi meadow - land) ; irriqatorio stahih (irrigated grounds) ; crhatico ^rotative meadow grounds). The marcifo (rot- ten) is formed by dividing the land into many small parallelograms, sensibly inclined to one side. The water which fills the little canals amongst them overflows these spots slowly, and by the inclination of the ground falls into the opposite canal. From this it is diffused over other parts, so that the whole meadow country is continually flooded, from which there is maintained a rapid and continual vegetation in the heats of summer and the frosts of winter ; at the same time no marshy weeds prevail. The grass is cut .5 times a year, and in some parts below Milan, in the meadows even 9 times. The erhatico, or rotation meadow, alter- nates with the cultivation of rice, grain, flax, Indian corn, and oats. 33 m. Casalpusterlengo Junct., a good-sized town. (Kly. W. to Pavia.) 36 m. Codogno Junct. (10,000\ a great cheese mart. [lily. E, to Cre- mona.] The line turns S. and crosses the Po by a bridge resting on an island in the centre of the stream, a short distance before reaching 43 m. Fiacenza Junct. (B. 6, 7). KEFEREXCES TO TLAX. 1 C Duomf>. 2 E S. Agostino. 3 D S. Aiitonino, 4 c S. Fr.incesfo. 5 D S. Oi'.vaniiidiranalo. 6 C S. Madonna di Cauipagna. 7 C S. Saviiio. 8 <; t-'. Sepoicro. 9 A S. Sis'o. 10 C S. Pietro and Bibliotoca. 11 c S. Michele. 12 B Pal. Fartu se. 13 C Pal. del Governo. 14 C Pal. del Connine. 15 D Tealro Cumunitaiivo. 16 C Tcatro Fili'dramniiilico. 17 D Botanical Gardens. 18 c 5 Post Office. HOTEbS. :• a B 4 Hroce Blanca. b c 4 Italia. c B 4 S. Maico. lacenza. PIACENZA. 7ft Fedde (3.5,000), founded by the Boiau Gauls, received from the lionians the name of Fla- centia, on account of its pleasing situation. It was one of the places Mhich revived the soonest after the invasions of the northern barbarians, and obtained an early share of the commerce which in the middle ages enriched the Italian towns. In the lOth cent, the fair of Placentia was one of the principal marts of the penins^ula. The most busy part is in the neigh- bourhood of the picturesque Piazza de' Cavalli (C. 4), so called from the bronze equestrian statues of the Dukes Alessandro and lidiiuccio Farncse, which stand in front of the Pala.?:zo del Comune. They were designed by Francesco Mocclii, a scholar of Giovanni Bo- logna, and cast in one jet by Mdrcdlo, a Poman artist. They were decreed by the city on the occasion of the pub- lic entrance of Margherita Aldobran- dini, the wife of Ranuccio, and cost 9000Z. The statue of Ranuccio was erected in 1G20; that of Alessandro in 1624. Ranuccio is in an attitude of command. Alessandro is reining- in his steed. The rider has pulled up the horse ; but the speed with which they have been proceeding is seen by the flutter of his drapery and the housing and mane all carried out by the wind. Of the two members of the Farncse family Avhose elevation so deeply tar- nishes the Papal tiara, Alessandro, who succeeded to his father Ottavio in 15u2, is the "Prince of Parma," whose name was so familiar in Eng- land in the reign of P^lizabeth. He was bold and enterprising. Governor of the Low Countries, he served Spain wisely and prudently ; and, as a general, was less sanguinaiy than the other captains of his times. He died in 1592 at Arras, in conse- quence of the wounds v.hich he had received at the siege of Rouen, his services having been transferred to France for the purpose of assisting Boute 101,— Fk the party of the League. The very low reliefs on the pedestal represent the attempt to burn the flying bridge thrown over the Scheldt by Farnese during the siege of Antwerp (15S5), and the interview with the envoys of Queen Elizabeth, near Ypres, to negotiate the peace (1591). Alessandro was succeeded by his son lianuccio. Gloomy, suspicious, cove- tous, and merciless, one of the first acts of his reign was to burn nine women accused of witchcraft. Ra- nuccio was constantly in dread of the vengeance of the nobility, whom he insulted and oppressed. A supposed conspiracy enabled him, in 1612, to ■wreak his vengeance upon them. On the 19th May the scaffold was raised before the windows of his palace ; and Barbara San Vitale, Countess of Colorno, one of the most beautiful women of her day, was brought forth, shown to the people, and beheaded ; she was followed by Pio Torelli — his head fell also ; San Vitale, Marquis of Sala, succeeded, and four others of the principal families. The execu- tion lasted 4 hours, the duke looking on with savage delight. He wished to extirpate these families ; and to this end inflicted horrible treatment upon the children of San Vitale. The son and nephew of Torelli escaped ; and the latter, taking refuge in Poland, and having married the heiress of the Poniatowski family, became the ancestor of the last king of that un- happy country. The *PaIazzo del Comune was erected by the merchants of Piacenza in 1281. The lower part is of red and white marble, in the Pointed style ; the upper half is of brick with round windows and terra-cotta ornaments, elaborate and delicate in the details. Above these is a marble cornice with forked battlements along the top, and a tower at each angle. Mr. Street speaks of it as a building of unusual and striking design — a capital example of the use of brick and marble. The building opposite is the modern Palazzo del Governo. On the S. side of the square is the Teatro Filodram- N. Itahj. Churches, 433 matico. On the E. side, in front o San Francesco, a marble Statue of G. D. Momagnosi, a distinguished jurist, was erected by the municipality in 1S67. CHURCHES. The *ETJ0K0 (C. 5), consecrated by Pope Innocent II. in 1133, is in the ancient Lombard style with 16th cent, additions. The porches are curious; the central one dates from 1564. In the archivolt are sculptured small reliefs of the signs of the zodiac, the sun and moon, stars, planets, comets, and winds. The two lateral ones, of an earlier period, are ornamented with rude reliefs of the Annunciation, Visitation, Nativity, and Adoration of the Magi. The pillars that support these arches rest upon quaint crouch- ing human figures, with a kind of saddle beneath the columns ; and the whole exterior is full of curious details. A Avindow in the apse is remarkable, the moulding of the archi- volt standing out from the wall, with which it is connected by four grotes- que heads. The Campanile (SOU ft.), erected in 1333, consists of a square brick tower with an open belfry on the summit ; to a window in it is affixed an iron cage, like that at Mantua, placed there in 1495 by Lodovico il Moro, to expose to public view persons guilty of sacrilege and treason. The interior has an imposing Nave, long spacious aisled transepts, and an elevated choir approached by a double flight of steps.* The Church is 360 ft. long, 210 wide between the transepts, and 125 high. Its wide arches rise from massive round columns : over the crown of each arch a statuette is let into the wall, and on several of the pillars are small tablets with reliefs representing workmen of various descriptions — a wheelwright, carpenter, smith, and many others — denoting the Crafts who contributed to the expense of erecting the build- ing. The *Choir-stalls are richly carved 2 F 434: BoiUe 101. — Piacenza: Churches. ■svith traceries in relief, by Gian Gla- coj/io, a Genoese (1417). At the inter- section of the nave and transept rises the octagonal cnpola, surrounded both M'ithoutand within by a gallery of Lombard arches. Six of the eight sides are painted in fresco by *Guer- cino ; the M and N.E. coiupartuients are by ^lorazzone. A nearer view of them may be obtained from the colonnade which runs round the top of the drum, but the ledge is rather narrow, and has no rail. The subjects are — Pro- phets, Sibyls, choirs of angels, and Biblical scenes. These frescoes have been injured in a peculiar manner: birds getting into the dome have flown against them and seratched them. "The Guercino frescoes are very re- markable for their great power in colour and skill in execution of fresco on a large scale, and have less of the heaviness usually pervading the works of this master. At the great distance from which they must be seen, they are quite satisfactory, and fine specimens of interior decorations." — C. W. C. Lower down, on each side of the win- dows, are figures of Charity, Truth, Chastity, and Humility, by Frances- cJiini. In the choir are frescoes by *Lodovico Caracci, full of academic power and skill, showing great know- ledge of the human form and much grandeur of contour ; the colours are distemperlike, but in as perfect pre- servation as if but just done. The Assumption, in the choir, as well as the Sibyls and Saints, on either side, are by'C. Procaccini. The *Virgin surrounded by Angels, on the vault of the apse, is a magnificent work of L. Caracci. On the vault over the high altar, the Coronation of the Virgin is by C. Procaccini ; the choirs of angels, and the Fathers of the Church in Hades, by L. Caracci. The Nativity of the Virgin and the Salutation, over the arch of the organ gallery, are by the same painter. The Visitation and the Descent of the Holy Spirit, over the arches on the opposite side of the choir, are by C Procaccini. In the chapel on the 1. of the choir, St. Martin dividing his Garment with the Beggar, by L. Caracci. In the 2nd chapel on the rt. is a strange painting, attributed to Andrea and Elisahetta Sirani, representing the 10,000 crucified Martyrs, who, ac- cording to the legend, consisted of an army of 9000 Roman soldiers miraculously converted to Christi- anity, and 1000 more troops sent against them, who followed their example, — an execution said to have occurred by the advice of Sapor, in the reign of Hadrian. Near the altar of Santa Lucia is a curious painting of the 16th cent., representing the Madonna and Child, by Bartolino da Piacenza. The Ancona over the great door was painted in 1497 by B. Gro- paUo (Statuettes by Antonio Bur- lenghi,, at the expense of a member of the Landi family. In the Sacristy is a good relief of the Assumption (l7th cent.). The Crypt is a complete Church of itself, with transepts and choir, sup- ported by 100 columns with varied capitals. Sant' Agostino, by Vignola, has an imposing front. The nave is sup- ported by 34 Doric columns of granite. Sant' Antonino (D. 4), the original Cathedra], founded a.d, .324, upon the spot where St. Barnabas preached to the people, was rebuilt in 1562. The N. porch, or Paradiso, is a bold arch of brick, with a pretty rose-window and pinnacles above (1350). The marble doorway, with men and monsters and some delicate carving, should be noticed. The sanctuaiy and choir were painted by Camillo Gavassetti of Modena, who died in 1C2S, at an early age. The subjects are principally from the Apocalypse, and the drawing is exaggerated. In the Sacristy is a 14th- cent. painting upon wood representing incidents from the life of the patron saint. The choir stalls are good, and there is an old central tower. There are two mediaeval sarcophagi outside the W. door. Close by to the E. is San Vincenzo, Boute 101. — Piacenza : Churches, 435 with two large paintings in the S. transept of David and Isaiah, by Ca- millo Boccaccino (1530), in a grand and broad style. San Francesco (4, C. 4) was built in 1278. The exterior is partly Lom- bard, the interior in the Pointed style. The painting in the large chapel on the rt., and the fresco in the cupola above it, are by Malosso of Cremona (1607). San Giovanni (D. 3) was founded by the Knights Templars. In the cloisters are some curious fragments of paintings of very early date. At the 2nd altar rt. is St. Hyacinth, by Malosso, with the Virgin and Child, attended by pretty boy-angels. There is a fine tomb of Oi'azio Scotti, Count of Montalbo, by AlgarcU, in a chapel 1. of the choir. *S. M. di Campagaa (C. 1) was erected from the designs of Bramante, originally in the form of a Greek cross, but altered towards the end of the last cent, by lengthening the choir, to the destruction of several frescoes by Campi. " The cupola and chapel, painted in fresco by Por- denone, show to what extent colour may be carried in fresco. The orange and blue, azure and gold, purple and red, are as rich as in the Venetian pictures, and similar in treatment ; the design not more severe, and with the same fierce dash in execution." — a W. a On the 1. of the W. door is a specimen fresco of St. Augustine, complete and careful in finish, and very beautiful in colour, but awkward in the drawing. In the 1st chapel 1. is an *Adoration of the Magi, by Pordenone. In the lunette, the Na- tivity ; on the wall, the Birth of the Virgin; above it the Flight into Egypt. The colossal St. Sebastian and St. Koch at the next altar, with four smaller subjects above from the life of St. Francis, are by Camillo Procaccini. Beyond this is the Chapel of St. Catharine, entirely painted by Por- denone: the altar-piece, in oil, repre- sents the Marriage of St. Catharine : St. Paul on the rt., is a portrait of the artist, and the Virgin of his wife. On the side-wall is a magnificent fresco of St. Catharine disputing with the doc- tors, into which the painter has also introduced his portrait in the doctor sitting on the ground with an open book before him. Tliese fine works were executed in 1546 for Countess Scotti Fontana. The Cupola, likewise by Pordenone^ is painted with Scripture subjects. Immediately under the circular open- ing of the lantern, upon which is painted the Almighty, and on the bands which divide the panels, are children playing with animals among festoons of flowers. Below the dome, on the frieze of the entablature, are subjects from heathen mythology — 1. Neptune and Amphitrite with sea- monsters : 2. Rape of Europa ; 3. Silenus drunk, borne by Fauns and Satyrs; 4. Bacchus with Fauns and Satyrs; 5. Hercules strangling the Serpents, and other figures expressive of his Labours ; 6. Jupiter hurling lightning at the Giants ; 7. Diana hunting, with Nymphs and Satyrs; 8. Venus and Adonis, with Cupids, Nymphs, and Satyrs. On the piers which alternate with pillars in sup- porting the entablature, are figures called Apostles, probably by Ber- nardino Gatti, who painted the drum below these piers with subjects from the life of the Virgin. The pen- dentives are by Pordenone. These frescoes may be well seen from the wide gallery which runs round the drum, behind the pillars and piers. In a series of Scripture histories, forming a kind of frieze over the arches of nave and choir are, — Tobias and Kaphael, hy Daniele Orespi; Ruth and the Reapers, by Tiarini; and the Apparition of the Angel to Lot and his Wife, by Guercino. In the Choir, behind the high altar, are some well- carved Stalls, and a painting of St. Catharine, by Pordenone. On the rt. of the entrance is St. George, painted by Gatti, in competition with Porde- none for the execution of the above frescoes. 2 r 2 436 Boiitc 101. — Placenza: Excursion to Velleia. San Savino (C. 7) Avas founded in 903, and rebuilt in the IGth cent. The crypt is probably as old as the lOiii cent. : the pavement is tessel- lated, representing the signs of the zodiac. San Sepolcro (C 2) is a good speci- j men of brickwork, by Bramante (1531). San Sisto (A. 3), entered by a fine Atrium, ^vas rebuilt in the beginning of the IGth cent. Its nave is sup- ported by columns of grey granite, i but is spoilt by excess of decoration, j in bad taste. Behind the high altar stood Eaphael's celebrated Madonna \ di San Sido, now at Dresden, which, in 1754, the monks sold to the Elector of Saxony and King of Poland, Frede- rick Augustus III., for 80007. ; a copy, by Avanzini of Piaccnza, is now in its place. Among the paintings •which remain are the Slaughter of the Innocents, by CamilJo Procaccini ; Sta. Barbara, by Pahna Giovane; the Martyrdoms of Sta. Martina, by Bassaiw, and of St. Fabian, by Paolo Farinato — all on the walls of the choir. The immense monument, in the 1. transept, of Margaret of Austria (1580), wife of Ottavio Farnese, was sculptured by Giachdo Fiorentlno. The intarsiatura of the stalls, re- presenting architectural views, is much damaged. The Palazzo Farnese (B. 4) occu- pies a portion of tlie site of the cita- del erected by Galeazzo Visconti, in 131)5, to protect Piacenza on the side of the Po. It was erected in 1558 by- Margaret of Austria, from the de- signs of Vignola, and the remains of its ornaments may be traced on its dilapidated walls. It has long been converted into barracks. From a closed window on the W. side the conspirators who assassinated Pier Luigi Farnese showed his corpse to the people, and afterwards hurled it into the ditch below. The Castello (D, 1, 2), an irregular pentagon, begun by Pier Luigi Farnese in 1547, was strengthened by the Austrians, and occupied by a garrison until 1859. Palazzo dei Tribunali, in the Via delle Benedettine (B. 5, G). This old brick building has a rich Kenaissance doorway, much injured. The ruined Church of S. Enstacliio, opposite, has some interesting details of ornamental brickAvork. The Biblioteca Pubblica (10, C. 4), of 120,000 vol?., contains a remarkable ymUerium of the 9th cent., bound in silver, and an early Dante. The Istituto Gazzola was founded by a Spanish officer for the mainte- nance and education of girls, who also receive marriage portions, and as a school of design. Tlie Ospedale Grande (CI) covers a considerable space of ground. The Promenade on the old ram- parts offers fine views of the distant Alps and Apennines, and glimpses of the Po, studded with its willowy islands. [Steam Tramway to Cremona (Rte. . 57.)] Excursion to Velleia,— This Pom- peii of Northern Italy lies 25 m. S.E. of Piacenza. The rough road passes through the following places : — San Polo, formerly a fief of the family of Angiiisola, whose castle is still standing. San Giorgio, near the Nure torrent, with a large ancient castle, and a villa from the designs of Vignola, both be- longing to the Scotti — a noble family, said to be descended from a branch of the Scotch Douglases long settled at Piacenza, where one was its Signore in 1290. i?f5:za?20, near which is also a feudal castle, now dismantled. Badagnano, where the carriage- road ends. The track now^ leads to the valley Boiite 101. — Piacenza to Parma. 43- of the Chiero, and passes by a spot about f m. from Velleia, where flames formed by carburetted hydrogen gas issue from the ground ; v,e soon come in sight of Monte Moria and Monte Bo- vinazzo, anciently a single eminence, but severed by the fall of the masses by -which the city was buried. It is conjectured that on the summit was a lake, and that the waters, percolating through a lower stratum of clay, de- tached the superincumbent rocks and soil, Avhich, as at Goldau, slid down and covered Velleia. The names of both the hills are said to have refe- rence to the catastrophe ; Koviuazzo being derived from rovina, and Moria from Morte. No coins have been found of a later period than the reign of the Emperor Probus ; and hence it is concluded that the catastrophe took place during, or not long after, his short reign. Velleia, though it must have been a city of considerable note, is nowhere directly mentioned by any ancient author ; but there is an indirect notice of it in Pliny, in relation to the census of the Eoman empire taken by Trajan, on which occasion there were found to be at Velleia six persons e.xceeding 110 years of age, four of 120, and one of 140. The subterranean treasures were first obscurely known in the 17th cent. ; and for a long time those who were in possession of the secret worked the mine with much profit : the larger bronzes went to the bell-founders, the coins and ornaments to the goldsmiths of Piacenza ; but in 17G0, the circum- stances having been made known to the Duke of Parma, regular excava- tions were begun, and in the course of five years many statues, inscriptions, and smaller articles were found, which have been deposited in the museum at Parma. An Amphitheatre, Temples, and a Forum, have been discovered ; none of the wails are more than 10 ft. in height, the mighty crush having thrown down the upper part. The excavations have not been continued for several years. The nearest Rly. Stat, to Velleia is Fiorenzuola (see below). On the 1. bank of the Trehhla, 25 m. S.W. of Piacenza (dil. in G hrs.), is the desecrated Benedictine Monastery of Bobbio, formerly celebrated for its Library, which supplied some valuable MSS. to the Ambrosian Library at Milan. The Church of S. Cohmhano contains in its crypt the sarcophagi of the canonized abbots. The Steam Tramway to Rivercjaro and Bettola (Ptte. GU) will help the pedestrian. PIACENZA TO PAEMA. On quitting Piacenza the Rly. runs at a short distance N. of and parallel to the ancient Via Emilia (so called from Emilius Lepidus, who con- structed it B.C. 187), which took a wide circuit from Bologna, passing through Modena, Parma, and Pia- cenza, to Milan. On the 1. is San Lazzaro, so called from an ancient hospital for lepers, upon the site of which is now erected an Eccle- siastical Seminary. The celebrated Cardinal Alberoni, who was born in the neighbouring town of Fiorenzuola, left all his property to tliis institution in 1752. In the Cardinal's Saloon are S. Francesca Romana, by Taddeo Zuccliero ; two paintings of Warriors on Horseback, by Borgognone ; his own portrait, by PoUdoro da Cara- vaggio. In the Church is the monu- ment of the Cardinal founder, and a good Christ on the Cross, by C. Pro- caccini. The Library contains 20,000 vols., amongst which is a copy of Albe- roni's works, with MS. additions and annotations. The Nure is crossed on a handsome bridge of five elliptical arches before reaching 49 m. Pontenure, near Mhich were discovered the mosaic pavements now in the museum at Parma. Further on is Fontana fredda, a seat of the Gothic kings. Theodoric had here a palace, 438 Boute 101. — Cadeo — Borgo San JOonnino. and the spring, answering to its pre- sent name, is in ancient chronicles called *' Fons Theodorici." He is sup- posed to have founded the present parish Church of San Salvatore. 53 ni. Cadeo, like San Lazzaro, is a memorial of ancient piety ; for here, in 1110, one Gisulphus, a citizen of Piacenza, founded a hospital, Casa di Dio, or Ca Deo. Crossing the Arda torrent we reach 56 m. Fiorenzuola (6700), supposed to occupy the site of the Koman Fidentia, near which Sylla obtained a \ictory over Carbo. It has some mediaeval relics. From one of its towers hang chains, to which, it is said, criminals were bound. The Church of San Fiorenzo has some carved work in the choir worth notice ; and the Sacristy contains some relics of ancient art, amongst others a fine specimen of Niello. [Eough road S.W. to (20 m.) VeJlcia (see above). It passes through Castel Arquato, a decayed but inter- esting little town on the Arda. The Palazzo Pnhhlico is a good Gothic building. Near Castel Arquato is JSLnde Zago, abounding in fossil shells and marine animal remains, in a high state of preservation. The Cortesi paloeontological collection, now in the university of Parma, where it has re- mained unpacked for more than a quarter of a cent., was principally formed from fossils found in this neighbourhood.] From Fiorenzuola M-e continue near the line of Roman road through a fertile territory. The country on the 1., extending to the Po, Avas once called the Stato TaUavicinn, from the cele- brated family who heldthe sovereignty of it. It was erected into an imperial Vioariato in the 12th cent., and ex- tended from the Po to the Apennines, embracing the districts between the Chiavenna and Taro rivers. Its chief tOMu, Bvaseto, was honoured with the title of city by Charles Y., and was the place of a conference between that sovereign and Pope Paul III. The Rocca, a castellated building where this meeting was held, contains a large Gothic court. Near Busseto is the Monastery of C/<7'flrara?Z(?, founded by the Pallavicini in 1136. The other towns were Corte Maggiore, where there is a fine tomb of kinaldo Pal- lavicini II. (1481) in the parish Church, removed from the Convent of St. Francis — and Soarza, near the Po. 61 m. Alseno. Fine views of the mountains to the S.W. The higher chain of the Apennines is bordered } towards the plain by a lower range of i hills covered with vegetation ; this is j entirely formed of pliocene marls and sands, extremely abundant in fossil shells, whilst the more distant points are composed of eocene beds. The village of Castel Arquato (see above), at the base of Monte Zago, and com- manding the entrance to the valley of the Arda, which runs far into the Apennines, forms from hereabouts a picturesque object in the landscape. The large red-brick villa on the rt. is that of S. Polo, belonging to the Anguisola family. Crossing the Stirone, we reach 65 m. Borgo San Donnino (11,000), often noticed in the mediaeval history of Italy, and contesting with Fioren- zuola the honour of being the ancient Fiderdia. " San Donnino was a soldier in the army of the Emperor Maximian. With many others, he became a Christian ; and when Maximian issued an edict ordering all persons to re- nounce the Christian faith on pain of death, Donnino fled, but was over- taken, and immediately put to death. Near that spot there was at that time a village called Julia. " In 362 the Bishop of Parma, ad- monished by a dream, discovered the body of Donnino, knoM'u to be that of the martyr by an inscription found on the spot, and by the sweet odour which issued from the grave. A chapel was erected to receive the holy remains : and we learn by a letter Boute 101. — Castelguelfoo 439 from St. Ambrose to Faustinus that the village of Julia had changed its name into that of San Donnino so early as 387. " From that time the shrine of St. Donnino became one of the most fre- quented in Italy, and received obla- tions which led to the construction of a temple on a larger scale. " The existing *Duomo is a large building, and has undergone various alterations. The oldest part of it is in the Lombard style, but the very curious and rich front belongs to times when the imitation of the Komau reliefs succeeded to the mon- strous imagery of the 7th and 8th cents. It cannot be older than the 12th cent., although the bai'barous character of the sculpture might seem to indicate a remoter antiquity. The projecting portals, the pediment over the doors, the pillars resting on animals, are all features of the latter part of the Uth and the l2th cent." — G, Kniglit. In the lateral Porch of Taurus, the heads of bulls are introduced ; in the Porch of Aries, the pillars rest upon kneeling rams, and the ram's head is introduced in the capitals, while the sun — represented by a human head surrounded with rays — appears in the archivolt. Some sculp- tures of the porches are taken from Scripture history, others from Pagan. Hercules is wrestling with the lion. A square tablet containing the relief of a woman in a chariot drawn by dragons, holding a torch in either hand, is the same design which at St. Mark's, Venice, is called Ceres or Proserpine. Among the sculptures on the walls of the apse are the Hunt of the Soul by the Demons, under the emblems of the stag and the hounds ; and the " Petra Solis," exhibiting the sun, followed by an inscription in uncial letters. The interior of the cathedral, which is scarcely altered, is as interesting as the outside. The crypt is worth visiting. [6 m. E. lies Rocca di Fontenellato, a village near the Rio Grande tor- rent. In the Villa San Vitale is a room painted in fresco by Parmegia- nino, on the plan of Correggio's more celebrated Camera di San Paolo at Parma. It is supposed that the artist took refuge here when persecuted by the confraternity of La Steccata, and painted the room out of gratitude to his protectors. The subject is the fable of Actpeon, represented in 13 lunettes, above which are children on the roof of the grotto. In one of the lunettes is the portrait of a beautiful Countess of San Vitale ; in another are children embracing each other. One of the hunters in the 2ud lunette is the painter's portrait. Diana throw- ing water in the face of Actseon is very graceful. The room is badly lighted, but the frescoes are in ex- cellent preservation,] 6 m. S.W. of Borgo (Tramway) are the mineral baths of Salsomaggiore. Part of the treatment consists in inhaling the vapour from the springs, and the waters have a considerable reputation for the cure of scrofulous and kindred diseases, 69 m. Castelguelfo, with an ancient castle. One portion is in ruins, others are partly modernized ; but the bold projecting machicolations still remain, as well as the original outline, testify- ing to its feudal grandeur. The walls are now covered with ivy. It was called Torre cV Orlando, not from the Paladin, but from Orlando Pallavicini, who held it for the Ghibelline party; but being besieged and taken (1407) by Ottone Terzi, the lord of Parma, and a great leader of the opposite faction, he changed its name to Castel- guelfo, in honour of his victory. From this spot, and during the re- mainder of the journey, the views of the Apennines, ranging along the southern horizon, are very fine. Soon afterwards we reach the banks of the Taro, in the winter season a rapid torrent rushing to the Po ; in summer there is a wide waste of stony- bed. This river was the boundary be- tween the Gaulish and the Ligurian 440 Boiite 101. — Parma: Catliedral. tribes. During the whole Avinter season the passage was attended with much difficulty and peril. Such dan- gers so often occurred during the middle ages, that bridge-building was undertaken as a work of Christian charity ; and the first bridge over the Taro was erected about 1170, by the exertions of a poor hermit of Nonan- tola, who, stationing himself by the fiide of the Via Emilia, begged until he had collected sufficient money to build it. But, after sustaining re- peated damage from the violence of the river, the hermit's bridge was finally carried away in 134:5, and ill replaced by a dangerous and incon- venient ferry, until the present magni- ficent *bridge of 20 arches, G40 yds. long, was completed in 1821, by Coc- coneJIi and Ferrari, at a cost of 86,4C0Z. Colossal statues representing the Parma, Taro, Enza, and Stirone, resting upon their urns, adorn the abutments at each end. The river Parma is crossed on a new bridge, which contrasts favourably with the three older ones seen from it on the rt., and the line, after running along the Ducal gardens, soon brings us to 79 m. PARMA Junct. (45,000). REFERENCES TO PLAN. 1 B 6 Duomo, 2 C 7 S. Giovanni Evangelista. 3 C 5 Madonna della Steccata. 4 5 S. Alessandro. 5 B 6 S. Loduvico. 6 C 5 S. Bartolommeo, 1 c 7 S. Antonio. 8 c 8 S. Sepolcro. 9 D 8 S. Michele. 10 D 7 S. Cristina. 11 C 4 S. Annunziata. 12 E 3 S. Francesco del Trato, 13 C 6 Battisterio. 14 B 5 Picture Gallerv and Museum 15 B 5 Pal. Ducale. 16 B 5 Biblioteca.' 18 D 5 University. 19 C 5 Teatro Xuovo. 20 B 5 Teatro Farnese, 21 BC 5 Post Office. 22 F 6 Botanic Garden. HOTELS. b C 6 Italia. c C 5 Crocc Bianca, Situated in the territory of the Boian Gauls, Parma was reducod to a Pioman colony as early as B.C. 187 ; destroyed during the wars of the Triumvirate, it was rebuilt by Julius Ca?sar and Augus- tus ; but so complete has been the sub- version of the ancient colony of Lepidus, that a few inscriptions, mutilated sculp- tures, and objects of jewellery, are all that remain of Eoman times. In the middle ages, like most of the large towns in Italy, it was successively governed as a republic and by some of its ,^reat fami- lies, the most remarkable of the latter being the Terzi, the De' Rossi, the Pallavicini, and the San Yitali. Julius II. obtained it from the Dukes of Milan in 1631 ; it remained a possession of the Popes until 1545, when Paul III. made it over, as well as Piacenza, to his natural son, Pier Luigi Farnese, with the title of duke. In 1815, the Vienna Con.<;Tess as-igued the Duchy to Marie Louise, Ex-Empress of France, and in 1859 the widow of Charles III. Avas obliged to give it over to the Kina; of Italy. The town is said to have been called Parma from its similaritj' to the form of a shield. But the torrent Parma, which runs through the city, crossed by three bridges, besides the Ely. bridge, most probably gave its name to the buildings which arose upon its banks. "When the city was under the authority of the Popes", it was represented by a female fi.uure sitting on a pile of shields, and holding a figure of Victor}', with the inscription Parma aurea. Parma suffered from an earthquake in 1832. Principal objects of interest, in topographical order : — ^Cathedral ; *Baptistery ; *San Giovanni Evangelista ; Teatro Far- nese ; Library ; *Museum of Antiqui- ties; Picture Gallery; '^Camera di San Paolo ; S. Alessandro ; *La Steccata ; Piazza Grande ; University ; Giardino Ducale ; Stradone and Boulevards. The ^Cathedral was consecrated by Pope Pascal II., a.d. HOG; many portions are much later. The ex- terior of the W. front is almost unaltered. From the centre rises an octagon tower and dome. The prin- cipal front is in the Lombard style, and has on each side colossal lions of 441 H " iplor- ficent irs of d for One By G. id and Boiite 101. — Parma: Cathedral. 441 red Verona raarble, sculptured by G. Bom da Bisonc, in 1281, the one grasping a serpent, the other a bull. The other sculptures of this portal are by Bianchini (1 -iOo), and represent the sun mystically placed in the key- stone of the circular arch ; the prin- cipal occupations of the months on either side ; the hunt ; the allegory of the pursuit of the soul by the fiend over the lintel. A few Koman in- scriptions are built up in the walls. The nave, excepting some Gothic interpolations and modei'n additions, is in a fine Lombard style, and the arrangement of the triforium is remarkable. The *frescoes upon the cupola were executed by Corrcggio, between 1522 and 1530. The sub- ject is the Assumption of the Virgin. The painter has imagined that the octagon, or drum from which the cupola rises, embraces the space on earth in which stood the sepulchre of the Virgin ; for this purpose, upon the octagon itself, from which the great vault springs, runs a balustrade, above ■which rises a candelabrum at each of the angles, with a number of boys engaged in lighting tapers, or burning incense and odoriferous herbs. On the balustrade, and in front of the base of the cupola, stand the Apostles, looking upwards with astonishment, as if dazzled by the great light of the celestial host who transport the Virgin ; and above, heaven appears open to receive her. The angel Gabriel descends to meet her, and the different hierarchies of the blessed circle around him. In the arches under the cupola, or on its pen- dentives, are represented the Four I'rotectors of the City of Parma — SS. Hilary, Bernard, John the Baptist, and Thomas — attended by Angels symbolical of the virtues of the Saint, and with the emblems and ornaments of his dignity. St. John, holding a lamb — angels around, darting through the clouds; St. Thomas, also sur- rounded by angels, some bearing exotic fruits, emblematical of this apostle's labours in India ; St. Hilary, looking down upon the city with an expression of kindness and protection ; while St. Bernard, kneeling, is implor- ing on its behalf. This magnificent work, which occupied so many years of the artist's life, was poorly paid for and inadequately appreciated. One of the cathedral wardens, in allusion to the fact that many more limbs than bodies are visible from below, told him that he had made a " hash of frogs " — un guazzetto di vane. The work is remarkable for its chiaroscuro, for its wonderful foreshortenings, and for the extensive range in the size of the figures, intended to convey by this device an impression of great space. "The perspective diminu- tion in the cupolas at Parma (to say nothing of the objects being represented as if above the eye) is extreme ; so that even the principal figures are altogether subservient to the expression of space. This was the chief object ; but the grandeur of form and character which the nearer figures exhibit has been justly considered to place these works far above subsequent efforts of the kind, which in the hands of the 'machinists' soon degenerated to mere decoration." — Eastlake. The decay of these frescoes is to be chiefly attributed to the old insufficient roof over the dome, which still exists under the new leaden one, added to save the v/recks of Correggio's works from destruction. Their present de- teriorated state has also been partly attributed to Correggio having used an intonaco containing a proportion of sand. A closer inspection of them may be obtained by ascending to the roof, from four small openings in the drum of the cupola. A good aid towards their study and comprehension will be the examination of the beau- tiful copies in the Pinacoteca by the late Professor Toschi and his pupils. The vaultings of the choir and nave are by GiroJamo Mazzola, cousin and scholar of Parmegianino. The sides of the nave are by Lattanzio Gamhara, who worked here from 1568 to 1573. These frescoes are academical in treatment ; they want brightness ; the subjects are confused, and not well adapted for mural decoration. By G. G. Procaccini are King David and 44:i seas 1 mu( 1 « gers mid ! und x,0u0), the third on the Eiviera, Genoa being the first, and Nice the second. The town has been modernized by the construction of handsome arcaded streets, lined with huge blocks of houses. Large quan- tities of pottery are made here. At Savona, Mago the Carthaginian de- posited his spoils after the capture of Genoa. The acropolis of the Ligurian city stood on the Bupe San Giorgio, now occupied by a Fort, The once ample port is small and shallow, having been spoiled by the Genoese in 15-8. They blocked it np by sinking hulks filled with stones, and the deposit of sand and silt did the rest. Here is considerable ship-build- ing activity, vessels of 1000 tons being frequently seen in constiniction. The Cathedral was built in leO-t, an older and more cui'ious structure having been demolished to make way for the fortifications. This former cathedral had been enriched by Pope Julius II. (Giulio della Rovere^, who, born at Albissola close by, was bishop of this see at the time of his election to the Papal dignity. Some of the ornaments of the present cathedral are his gifts, having been saved fi-om the demolished structure ; as, for ex- ample, the admirably *inlaid and carved stalls of the Choir. The fresco of the Madonna della Colonna, by RoberteUi, is so called because it was painted on a pillar in the ancient Duomo, from which it was ingeniously detached, and placed in its present situation. In the 1st chapel rt. is an Assumption, -with the Nativity, and SS. Catharine, Peter, and Francis, by Lodovico Brea. On the frame are the canting arms of the house of Eovere — an oak-tree, surmounted by the cardinal's hat. It was the gift of Pope Julius ; and as almost every picture in Italy has its story, it is said with respect to this, that Julius, whoj when Pope, thi'eateued ^Michel Moute 122. — Savona — Santuario. 483 Angelo with a halter, or something as bad, because he did not paint fast enough, employed seven painters upon this work, in order to get it soon out of hand. Several of the altars on this side have handsome marbles. In the transepts are modern paintings of merit. There is a curious painted and gilt relief of the Assumption in the N. transept, brought from the old Duomo. In the 4th chapel 1. are some fine intarsia panels. The Font is scooped out of an elaborately carved square capital. Close by is a rich Byzantine Crucifix. Beside the cathedral stands the Sistine Chapel, founded by Sixtus IV., uncle of Julius II., as a place of sepulture for the Rovere family. His father was but a poor fisherman, though of noble descent. In the N. porch of the Cathedral there is an Inscription in his honour (1477). In the church of S. Domenico is an Adoration attributed to Albert Diirer, and a Nativity, by Antonio Semini (1st Chapel 1.). In the cloister is a bust to the memory of Chiabrera, one of the best Italian poets of the 17th cent., beneath which is an inscription wi"itten by Pope Urban VIII. Chia- brera was born here, and the place is full of reminiscences of him. Words- worth translated some of his pieces. His villa is near the Church of San Giacomo, in which he was buried. The house in which he was born has the motto chosen by himself : Nihil ex omni parte beatum. A handsome Theatre was erected to his memory in 1853. At the OsPEDALE is a small Pina- coteca. — Ant. Semini (1500), Nativity with St. Francis and a Bishop. Giov. Mazone (1400), Nativity with S. Ber- nardino ; Annunciation with Saints. Giottesque, Virgin and Child on wood. Donatella, relief of Vix'gin and Child. In the Madonna di Castello is a good painting by Foppa, and in S. Giovanni (Scuola dei Poveri) a Na- tivity by Brizio, a Carmelite friar. One of the towers of the port is decorated by a colossal statue of the Virgin, beneath which, in large cha- racters, is engraved the following in- scription : — In mare irato, in sublta procella Invoco te, nostra benigna Stella. It is part of a popular hymn sung by the sailors and fishermen on this coast. No. 56 in the Via Pia is the house in which Pius VII. was a prisoner. It bears a Latin couplet with the date 1809. Parallel ^vith the Port runs the Via Quarcla Superiore, with several interesting staircases and doorways. The Poet Wordsworth wrote of the neighbourhood : " There is not a single bay along this beautiful coast that might not raise in a traveller a wish to take up his abode there ; each as it succeeds seems more inviting than the other ; but the desolated convent on the cliff in the bay of Savona struck my fancy most." Ely. W. to San Giuseppe di Cairo (Rte. 6), for Turin or Alessandria, passing (4 m.) Santuario, so-called from the Pilgrimage Church of the Madonna delta Misericordia, well worth a visit for its singular and picturesque situation. The Church is built on the spot where a miraculous appearance of the Madonna is said to have taken place in 1536 \ and, though of such recent origin, the devotion of the Riviera so increased its treasures, that they were thought only second to those of Loreto. The greater part of these disappeared under the French; but the Sanctuary has been replen- ished, particularly by a crown of silver studded with gems, placed on the head of the image by Pope Pius VII. He was kept a prisoner at Savona by Napoleon I., and his desk broken open to steal from it the ring of St. Peter. Marino and Chiabrerain poet ly, and Bernardo Castello in painting, exercised their talents in honour of this sanctuary. The Church is lined with marble, and filled with faded paintings of Castello, containing nearly the whole life, legendary as well as scriptural, of the Virgin. The Pre- sentation of the Virgin is by Do- 2 I 2 484 Boute 122.— Celle—Voltri. mcnicliino; the alto-relievo of St. Elisabeth and the Virgin, by Bernini. Leaving Savoua, the Rly. runs in- land through tunnels, coming out at Albissola. The town is at the opening of a pleasant valley, and stretches along the shore. Albissola Super tore, 1 m. inland, contains a palace of the Delia llovere family, not the building in which Pope Julius w^as born, though he was a native of the town. In the Chui'ch of the Madonna della Con- cordia are some good paintings by Fiasella and Anaaldo. Along this part of the Riviera may be seen villas, sometimes high above the road, sometimes on its level, with their gardens gay with bowers, terraces, trellis walks, and the brightest profusion of trees and shrubs and flowers. These gardens are generally in the old-fashioned, regular style, and are mostly entered by a lofty gate, once surmounted by armorial bearings. 95 m. Celle. In the Church of St. Michael is a pictm-e of the Archangel, by Pierino del Vaga, painted by him in fulfilment of a vow made diu'ing a storm. 99 m. Varazze, a town of import- ance, stretching along the coast for more than a mile. Here are built a large proportion of the mercantile marine of Genoa, the slips for which along the beach form a busy scene. Here was born in 1230 Jacopo da Voragine, author or compiler of the Golden Legend, a collection of monk- ish legends of saints, miracles, and adventures of the Devil, which was most popular in the 13th, 14th, and loth centuries. It has the fame of being the chief book which trans- formed Loyola from a soldier to a religious enthusiast. In 1292 its author became Archbishop of Genoa, where he excelled in chai-ity and benevolence. In the hills above Varazze is the singular monastery of the Deserto, founded by a noble lady of the Balbo-Pallavicini family. She was exceedingly beautiful, and is said to be represented as the Madonna, though in the Genoese dress of the 16th cent., in an altar-piece by Fiasella. 103 m. Cogoleto (1000). Before entering this town is an extensive foundry of shot and shells. Cogoleto is by tradition the birthplace of Columbus in 1435 ; and his House, wdth an inscription on it, may still be seen in the Via Cristqforo Colombo, No. 22. On the other hand, the house of his father Domenico can be proved by title-deeds to have been situated in the suburbs of Genoa, and he himself states that he was born at Genoa — an expression which, however, was quite compatible with his being born within the territory. The family can be traced in Savona, Oneglia, and all about the neighbourhood ; and the fact of his being a Ligurian is unques- tionable. The Rly. passes along shore and by three tunnels to 105 m. Arenzano (5000), a pleasing village, beautifully situated on the shore, with picturesque, well-timbered hills all around. 110 m. Voltri (12,000), an indus- trious town at the mouth of the Ceriiso, celebrated for its manufacture of Paper and Sweetmeats. Anciently the Genoese supplied most parts of Europe with paper, and a considerable quantity is still exported to S.America. The Voltri paper is said to have the property of resisting the worm better than any other — a quality sup- posed to be derived from the sul- phur in the water with which it is made. In the valley of the Leii'a are sulphurous springs, which rush out very copiously near the chapel of the Madonna dell' Acqua Santa. A bath- house has been erected here. The waters are considered eflScacious in cutaneous diseases, and are much fre- quented by the Genoese during the summer. The beavitiful villa of the Marchese Brignole has some frag- ments of sculpture attributed to Giov. Pimno. Hoiite 122. — Pra-^Qenoa* 485 111 m. Pra. Here Genoa maybe said to commence. There is scarcely any break in the line of villas, houses, and manufactories with chimneys. 112 m. Pegli (8000). Steam Tram- way to Genoa. The Church of Mont' Oliveto, on a hill above, has a Descent from the Cross, by Francesco Succlii of Pavia (1527). The Villa Doria was built by Canzio for Adamo Centurione, one of the richest merchants of Genoa, in the time of Charles V. When the emperor was preparing for his ex- pedition, his treasurer borrowed 200,000 crowns from Centui'ione, who immediately paid over the amount in ready money, and then foi*thwith sent a receipt in full to Charles V., who cast it into the flames, A similar story is told of the Fuggers of Augsburg. The *Villa Pallavicini belongs to the Marchese Durazzo. The grounds — entered from a house near the Stat,— deserve a visit, though they are of recent origin, and rather cock- ney in style. They have been laid out on the side of a hill, at an enor- mous expense. There are winding walks many miles in extent, emerging from shady" groves at points com- manding fine views over the Gulf of Genoa, from Capo di Noli to Capo Porto Fino. Temples and kiosks, artificial grottoes with stalactites, and sheets of water with boats, arti- ficial caverns, a Chinese pagoda, and an Egyptian obelisk, excite the admi- ration of the Italians, who loudly praise "la feracitJi d' invenzione, la squisitezza di gusto" displayed in this *'meraviglia d' arte;" but for English visitors the chief attraction will be the variety and luxuriance of vegetation, the pine-trees, cypress, cedars, olean- ders, myrtle, and camelias, gi'owing in the open air. Visitoi-s must be ac- companied by a guide. (Adm. 1 fr.) The visit occupies 2 hrs. 113 m. Sestri Ponente (10,000), much frequented by the Genoese in summer for bathing, is a flourishing town, with shipbuilding yards. Be- hind it rises the hill oiLa Madonna del Gaxo, crowned by a chapel, with a colossal statue of the Vii-gin, *Mag- nificent view. The Villa Serra, with its terraces and hanging gardens, is striking. The monastery of SanV Andrea is now the Villa Vivaldi. 114 m, Cornigliano, a flourishing town with extensive manufactures of printed calicoes. The Palazzo Serra has a fine elevation. On the height above is the Church of Santa Maria Incoronata, which contains a Holy Family, by Pierino del Vaga, of great sweetness, but in a bad condition. Below this is an oratory attached to a convent, with some frescoes of merit ; the ceiling is attributed to P, del Vaga. In the neighbourhood is a large Convalescent Home, found- ed by the Duchess of Qalliera. The Polcevera, which descends from the Apennines near the great tunnel (Rte. 11), is crossed by a bridge built at the expense of the Durazzo family. Here Masse'na signed his capitulation with Lord Keith and the Austrians for the surrender of Genoa, in June 1800. 115 m, Sampierdarena Junct. (Buf- fet), a populous and busy suburb of Genoa. In the principal Church is a Flight into Egypt, by Cambiaso ; and some frescoes, by Fiasella. The Palazzo Spinola is an excellent speci- men of a Genoese villa. The great saloon on the first floor is painted in fresco by Carlone. The Villa Impe- riale also contains frescoes. (Rly. N". to Alessandria; Steam Tramway to Pontedecimo.) A long tunnel under the projecting hill which bounds the bay of Genoa on the W., and whose headland bears a conspicuous lighthouse (Lanterna), now leads to 117 m. GENOA (190,000), rising in the form of an ancient Theatre from the sea, and justly styled La Superba. An old vituperative Tuscan proverb attributes to it the following wants — Mare senza pesce, montagne senza al- 486 Boute 122. — Genoa : Harhoun heri, uomini senza fede, e donne senza vergogaa. The Genoese, oi' Ligurians, from the time of Virgil to Dante, and since, have been the subject of abuse. But the splendid memorials of the charity ojf past generations, Avith which the city and its district abound, bear ample testimony to the worth of the inhabitants. GENOA. PAGE Accademia delle Belle Arti 499 Acquasola Gardens 489 Albergo de' Poveri 500 Andrea Doria, Memorials of 500 Aqueduct 4S6 Archbishop's Palace 495 Arsenal 500 Balilla, Statue of 501 Banco di San Giorgio 500 Campo Santo 501 Cathedral 489 Charles Dickens, House of 489 Churches : — S. Agostino 491 S. Ambrogio 491 Annunziata 491 Annunziata di Portoria 491 S. Cosma 491 S. Donato 492 S. Giovanni di Pre 492 S. M. di Carignano 492 S. M. di Castello 492 S. M. delle Vigne 492 S. Matteo , . . 493 S. Siro 493 S. Stefano 494 Columbus, House of 488 IMonument of 488 Conservatorie 501 Exchange 500 Goldsmith's work 489 Harbour 486 Hospitals 501 Library 500 Lighthouse 487 Mazzini, Statue of 489 Mediajval Gate 487 Houses 493 Municipio 496 Museum of Geology 489 of Natural History 489 Palaces 494 Picture Galleries 494 Piiik Gaol 489 Porta Yacca 487 Scuola Tecriica 493 Sperone 488 Theatres 500 University 499 Via degli Oreficl 489 Villa Scoglietto 489 Yilletta di Negro 489 The climate is healthy, and the atmosphere usually cleai*, but it is not a desirable place for persons suflfering from chest complaints. Pegli, on the W., aflfords a more sheltered residence, and Nervi, on the E., is still better protected. Genoa is the chief outlet on the Mediterranean for the manufacturers of Switzerland, Lombardy, and Pied- mont ; and they import many foi'eign articles — cotton, sugar, &c. — through it. About 12,000 sailing vessels and steamers, with an average of 500 tons each, enter the harbour annually. The trade of Genoa has doubled itself within the last 10 years, the annual imports being now valued at 16 millions, and the exports at 4 millions sterling. As a proof of the increased activity of the Port may be cited the necessity of piercing the Apennines at Busalla with a second tunnel, the traffic on the single line having become wholly unmanageable. The deep and extensive harbour is protected by two moles. It is some- what exposed to the S.E. wind and to the heavy swell which follows gales from that quai'ter ; but is protected generally by a series of moles and piers, and has been furnished with commodius basins, at a cost of I5 million sterling, of which two-thirds were contribvited by a legacy of the late Duke of Galliera. Genoa is now one of the first commercial ports in the Mediterranean, and a formidable rival to Marseilles, especially since the enlargement of accommodation for the mercantile marine, by the removal of the naval arsenal to Spezia. Manufacturers of silks, velvets, damasks, thrown silks, paper, soap, and the usual trades of a seaport town, employ many of the inhabi- tants. The articles of manufacture peculiar to Genoa are gold and silver objects, especially filigree-work, velvet, arti- ficial flowers, and coral ornaments. Embroidery on cambric and muslin is also carried to much perfection. An ample supply of excellent water is brought to the city partly by a mediaeval aqueduct, 25 m. long, which taps the jB/sa^no high up amongst the hills ; and partly by one which ^■. 1^^" '^^ ii.',. l\iUir B.iildiini, WWtj^- '1,^ i/ii».(iu»uim! A.Mc-m Hnu^p' Ki C^ E n © A U. CAJUaL- C.4 - - I ^<^^' |CdWA/«7TiMnrC ■ Miivi'rtvn Hfintlbonk. /.< Boute 122. — Genoa : Porta Vacca. 487 draws its current from the Scrivia, on the N. side of the Apennines (Rte. 11), and has an extensive reservoir above Pontedecimo. The Genoese ai'e hiborious, and a robust and well-looking people ; but the Ligui'ian character, both physical and mental, is very peculiar ; and they have yet a strong feeling of nationality. Their dialect is almost unintelligible to a stranger. The simple and graceful head-dress of the women, consisting of a muslin scarf {'pezzoUd) pinned to the hair and falling over the arms and shoulders, is now only occasionally seen. To the beautiful road of the Riviera through which the traveller may have passed, Genoa forms a very worthy termination. " I have nowseen," says a competent observei', "all the most beaiitiful cities of the South, and have no hesitation in ranking this after Naples and Constantinople. But the charm of the latter ceases on landing, whereas the interior of Genoa does not disappoint our expectations. The streets, indeed, are naiTow ; but, to say nothing of the obvious convenience of this in a hot climate, it does not of course produce the gloom which it does in our northern cities. We too naturally attach the idea of small mean houses to narrow streets, whereas these are lined with magnificent palaces. In this respect, as well as in the massive and florid character of these edifices, Genoa bears a con- siderable resemblance to La Valetta, in Malta; but in that island archi- tecture has something of an oriental cast ; here it has adopted a more festive character." — Hose. The Port is closed in from the sea by two piers, the Molo VeccMo and the 3Iolo Nuovo ; the former springing from the E, end of the harbour, the latter from the W., and overlapping it ; the entrance to the harbour between the pier -heads being 550 yds. wide. At the S. extremity of the W. pier stands the lanterna (lighthouse), built in 1543 ; it rises 247 feet above its base, or 385 above the sea. Several towers had previously stood here. The last, called the Briglia (Bridle), was erected in 1507 by Louis XII., for the purpose of securing the authority which he had acquired. The lighthouse should be ascended (1 fr.) for its extensive *view and interesting reflectors, which are visible 20 m. to seaward. Close to the foot of the lighthouse is the quarantine establishment. On the N. side of the harbour is the Darsena (dockyard and arsenal) established in 1276 ; the cost being furnished out of the spoils taken by Tommaso Spinola. In 1861, the Italian Government made Spezia the pi-incipal naval depot, and the activity which used to reign here has in consequence declined. The city has been repeatedly in- creased in size, and its walls as often en- larged. The first modern fortifications were erected in 935 near the Stat, of Santa Limhania, on the Steam Tram- way to Volti-i. In 1155 the Genoese raised another circuit, for the purpose of resisting the threatened attacks of Frederick Barbarossa. Some of the gates are yet standing. Such is the *Porta Vacca, a fine and lofty arch between two towers, leading into the Via del Campo (B. 4). Another cii"cuit was begun in 1327. In this many of the previous suburbs were included. The ramparts afi'ord agi-eeable promenades, and are con- nected on the E. with the Acquasola Garden. The 3rd circuit, at a considerable distance from the 2nd, encircles all the heights that immediately command the town and harbour, and forms an im- mense triangle. It. is strengthened at different points by stronger works in the form of forts, such as the great citadel of S per one (1650 ft.) 4 m. due N. of the town. An extensive system of detached redoubts has been added on every peak from which the city or its defences can be threatened. The place has thus been rendered very strong. The last circuit of fortification was erected to protect the city against the present dynasty, when the Gallo-Sar- dinian army, under Carlo Emanuele, Duke of Savoy, threatened the very existence of the Republic ; and it was, JRoiite 122. — Genoa: Porta Vacca. 487 draws its current from the Scrivld, on the N. side of the Apennines (Rte. 11), and has an extensive reservoir above Pontedecimo. The Genoese are hiborious, and a robust and well-looking people ; but the Ligurian character, both physical and mental, is very peculiar ; and they have yet a strong feeling of nationality. Their dialect is almost unintelligible to a stranger. The simple and graceful head-dress of the Avomen, consisting of a muslin scarf (pezzottd) pinned to the hair and falling over the arms and shoulders, is now only occasionally seen. To the beautiful road of the Riviera through which the traveller may have passed, Genoa forms a very worthy termination. " I have nowseen," says a competent observer, ''all the most beautiful cities of the South, and have no hesitation in ranking this after Naples and Constantinople. But the charm of the latter ceases on landing, whereas the interior of Genoa does not disappoint our expectations. The streets, indeed, are narrow ; but, to say nothing of the obvious convenience of this in a hot climate, it does not of course produce the gloom which it does in our northern cities. We too naturally attach the idea of small mean houses to narrow streets, whereas these are lined with magnificent palaces. In this respect, as well as in the massive and florid character of these edifices, Genoa beai's a con- siderable resemblance to La Valetta, in Malta; but in that island archi- tecture has something of an oriental cast ; here it has adopted a more festive character," — Rose. The Port is closed in from the sea by two piers, the Molo Vecchio and the Blolo Nuovo ; the former springing from the E. end of the harbour, the latter from the W., and overlapping it ; the entrance to the harbour between the pier -heads being 550 yds, wide. At the S. extremity of the W. pier stands the lanterna (lighthouse), built in 1543 ; it rises 247 feet above its base, or 385 above the sea. Several towers had previously stood here. The last, called the Briglia (Bridle), was erected in 1507 by Louis XII., for the purpose of securing the authority which he had acquired. The lighthouse should be ascended (1 fr,) for its extensive *view and interesting reflectors, which are visible 20 m. to seaward. Close to the foot of the lighthouse is the quarantine establishment. On the IST. side of the harbour is the Darsena (dockyard and arsenal) established in 1276 ; the cost being furnished out of the spoils taken by Tommaso Spinola, In 1861, the Italian Government made Spezia the principal naval depot, and the activity which used to reign here has in consequence declined. The city has been repeatedly in- creased in size, and its walls as often en- larged. The first modern fortifications were erected in 935 near the Stat, of Santa Limbania, on the Steam Tram- way to Voltri, In 1155 the Genoese raised another cu'cuit, for the purpose of resisting the threatened attacks of Frederick Bai'barossa. Some of the gates are yet standing. Such is the *Porta Vacca, a fine and lofty arch between two towers, leading into the Via del Campo (B, 4). Another circuit was begun in 1327. In this many of the previous suburbs were included. The ramparts afibrd agreeable promenades, and are con- nected on the E. with the Acquasola Garden. The 3rd circuit, at a considerable distance from the 2nd, encircles all the heights that immediately command the town and harboui", and forms an im- mense triangle. It is strengthened at different points by stronger works in the form of forts, such as the great citadel oi Sperone (1650 ft.) 4 m. due N. of the town. An extensive system of detached redoubts has been added on every peak from which the city or its defences can be threatened. The place has thus been rendered very strong. The last circuit of foi-tification was erected to protect the city against the present dynasty, when the Gallo-Sar- dinian army, under Carlo Emanuele, Duke of Savoy, threatened the very existence of the Republic ; and it was, for their magnitude aud fine arclii- tecture. 488 Boute 122.— Genoa : Squares, Monuments^ and Gardens. in great measure, raised by voluntaiy contributions and voluntary labour. Upwards of 10,000 of the inhabitants worked upon them, without receiving either provisions or pay. Within these walls Masse'na sustained the famous siege of 1800. The city was invested on the land side by the Austrian troops, whilst the British fleet under Lord Keith, blockaded the port. Masse'na was at length starved out, and he evacuated the city on the 4th of June, 1800, after a blockade of 60 days, during which the garrison and inhabitants suffered the greatest misery from famine. Of the 7000 troops under Masse'na, only 2000 were tit for service when they surrendered. The number of the inhabitants who died of the famine, or of disease pi'oduced by it, exceeded 15,000. The present gar- rison amounts to 7000 men, but treble that number would be necessary to man its works in the event of a siege by any great continental power. An interesting walk of 10 m. may be taken round the fortifications, following the road on the inner side, from the Lanierna (C. 1) to the Forte dello Sperone, passing a chain of Forts on the way. The road, which com- mands fine pi'ospects over the town and harbour, and afterwards ovei'looks the encircling valleys of the Polcevera aud Bisagno torrents, re-enters Genoa by the iron bridge over the latter stream (D. 6). The *Via di Circonvallazione, a fine road winding at a high level between the Piazza Manin (B. 6) and the Alhergo del Poveri (A. 4), affords a charming walk or drive. The road finally descends to the Piazza Annun- ziata (B. 4). The streets in the older parts of the town are very steep, and often inac- cessible to wheel-carriages ; nor are the smaller viooli convenient for foot- passengers. Through these long trains of mules, with their bells and trap- pings, add to the busy throng. The older houses have an appearance of antique solidity, whilst those in the more modern streets are distinguished A WALK THROUGH GENOA. Starting from the Port, and taking the Via Carlo Alberto to its S.E. end, turn up past the Bourse to the *Via degli Orefici, where the goldsmiths have their shops. Thence cross by a nar- row street to the * Cathedral. After- wards to the Piazza Nuova, in which ai'e the Palazzo Ducale and Church of S. Amhrogio. N.E. is the Piazza Dcferrari, with the Accademia di Belle Arti, Library, and Teatro Carlo Felice. The Via Giulia strikes out of this square to the E., and at the other end of it is the Church of S. Stefaiw. Thence S., bearing after- wards S.W., to S. Maria di Carigimrw, for the sake of the view from its cupola. Returning to S. Stefano, and passing its E. end on the 1., we reach the *Acquasola Garden, and cross the gay and planted Piazza Corvette to the Villetta di Negro. From the Piazza the broad Via Koma, with the Galleria Mazzini on its 1., runs down to the Piazza Deferrari, from which, turning rt. at a sharp angle into the Via Carlo Felice, we reach the Via Nuova and its prolongations with their string of Palaces, of which the Palazzo Bosso, recognised by its red coloui-, is the most important. Then follows the Annunziata, at the entrance to the Via Balbi. In this street will be seen (rt.), the *Durazzo Palace and (1.) the *Balbi, and further on the Palazzo Beale. At the W. end of the Via Balbi is the Piazza Acquaverde, with the monument to Columbus, and the Rlj'. Terminus, close to which is the Palazzo Doria. SQUARES, MONUMENTS, AND GARDENS. In the irregular-shaped Fiaz2a Ac- quaverde (A. 3) is a monument to Columbus, erected in 1862. On a house in the Vico del Morcento ia an inscription stating that his father Boute 122. — Genoa: Promenades; Churches. 489 lived there and kept a wool-carder "s shop. But tradition assigns his actual birthplace to the village of Cogoleto. The monument consists of a huge square pediment, at the corners of which are seated figures of Geogi-aphy, Discretion, Steadfastness, and Ee- ligion ; higher up is a circular pedestal decorated with prows of galleys, on which stands a marble group of Columbus and a woman representing America, On the pediment below are four reliefs, representing events in the life of Columbus. The inscrip- tion is in excellent taste ; it is simply "A Cristoforo Colombo la Patria." The Italians are natui'ally proud of the discoverer of America, although they took no part in his voyages ; and there is usually to be seen in the harbour some vessel bearing the illustrious navigator's name. In the Piazza Corvetto is a bronze equestrian Statue of Victor Emanuel, by BarzagM, erected in 1886 ; and at the foot of the Villa di Negro a marble Statue of Mazzini, by Costa. The *Via degli Orefici (B. 4) strikes through the heart of the old part of the city, and derives its name from the traders who inhabit it. Before the revolution the goldsmiths formed a guild or company, possessing many privileges and possessions, all of which are lost. One relic they yet preserve — a picture of the Virgin and Children, with St. Eloy, patron saint of the smith' craft, whether in gold, silver, or iron. It is upon stone, framed and glazed, at ISTo. 131 in the goldsmiths' street, and surmounted by a wrought canopy. It is attributed to Pellegro Piola (1607-30), and is said to have excited so much envy on the part of his master, Castello, that he caused his pupil to be assassinated. When Napoleon was here, he desired much to remove this picture to the Louvre. "We cannot oppose you by force," said the goldsmiths, ''but we will never surrender it ; " and accordingly he yielded, and the picture remains. The goldsmiths of Genoa excel in a beautiful fine Filigree, of silver, or silver gilt, which they work into bunches of flowers, bvitterflies, brace- lets, wreaths, and other articles, prin- cipally designed for female ornaments. They sell them by weight, at a price about 15 per cent, above the value of the metal. These ornaments are very prettj', and are hardly to be pro- cured out of Genoa. Over a door on the rt. (No. 128), ascending from the Port, is a loth cent. *relief of the Adoration of the Magi. Public Promenades.— The *Acqua- sola, a garden-grove, on the old forti- fications, is a favourite resort of all classes. Military band three times a week, in summer from 7-9 p.m., in winter from 2-4. At one side is the large Caffe d' Italia, with a tower which commands a good view. The Palazzo Peschiera to the N.E. is the ' Pink Gaol,' occupied by Charles Dickens during the winter of 1844-5. His Christmas Story of ' The Chimes ' was written in it. N.W. of the Acquasola is the Villetta di Negro. From its more elevated position, it enjoys a still finer and more extensive view. The garden has been laid out and planted, and the Casino in the centre rebuilt as a Museum, in which are the geological Collections of the late Marchese Lorenzo Pareto, the zoolo- gical ones of Marchese Giacomo Doria, Beccari, Antinori, and D'Albertis, the traveller in New Guinea, with others formed by the late Duke of Genoa, great-uncle of the present King. The Villa Scoglietto (A. 2), belonging to Siguor Rosazza, has a beautiful garden, with an admirable view (1 fi".). CHURCHES. The *CATHEDIIA1. of San Lorenzo (C.4) was constructed in the 14th cent., but the dooi'ways and other details of the previous building, erected in the 11th cent., were preserved, and used up as materials. The triple * W. doorway is transition work of about 1205. The N. and S. doorways also belonged to the earlier edifice, but have been 490 Boute 122. — Genoa: Cathedral. much altered in tlie rebuilding, and fresh shafts or colounettes were added to the outside of the S. doorway in loll. The N. doorway was rebuilt iu 1G21. There are tmces iu this edifice of the taste which prevailed at Pisa and Lucca. Some of the columns of the portal were taken from Tortosa and Almeria, as part of the spoil won at tlie capture of those cities in 1148. Two of them are twisted palm-trunks. Among the vestiges of an early period are the curious ornaments on the N"., exhibiting monsters and Runic knots, and some rude I'eliefs encrusted in the outer walls. Over the principal en- trance is a relief of the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, with some quaint figures of the 13th or 14th cent. ; and several parts of the outer walls are Pagan reliefs, which formed the front of Roman sarcophagi. The lions of Carrara marble were placed at the "W. front when the steps leading to it were i-estoi'ed. The handsome S. tower dates from the early part of the 16th cent., that on the N, being unfinished. The cupola was erected by Alessi in 1567. The Nave (1307-12) is preceded by an elegant inner Gothic porch with a gi'oined roof, formed of alternate courses of black and white marble ; over this porch is a gallery for the Doge when he came to hear mass. The nave is separated from the aisles by Corinthian columns supporting nine pointed arches of brown Polce- vera serpentine ; upon these arches rests an entablature with a long inscription in Gothic characters, over which rises a second tier of round arches. There is no triforium, pro- perly speaking, the walls of the arches being continued to the roof without an intermediate floor. The clerestory is pierced by mean square modern windows. Against the N. door is a fine Gothic Tomb. The arches of the nave end abruptly at the crossing, the Choir and false transepts being of Renaissance archi- tecture by Alessi. The high altar is decorated with a fine bronze statue of the Madonna and Child, by G. B. Bianco (17th cent.); the marble statue of S. John the Evangelist is by M&ntorsoli. In the chapel at the end of the rt. aisle is a Crucifixion ydih Sebastian and other Saints, by Baroccio, a good wox-k, with all the painter's faults of prettiness. The Choir has beautifully carved stalls, with backs of coloured intarsia-\iOvk. On the ceiling is a large fresco, the Martyrdom of S. Lorenzo, by Teverone. The ancient manuscript choir-books are fine volumes of their kind. At tbe Palla- vicini Chapel on the 1. is a detached marble *Statue of a kneeling cardinal. The *Chapel of St. John Baptist, in the 1. aisle, was originally closed to females, except on one day of the year — a prohibition imposed by Innocent VIII., in recollection of the daughter of Herodias. The screen is of rich cinquecento or Renaissance (1496). The canopy over the altar, supported by four porphyry pillars, was erected in 1532 at tiie expense of Filippo Doria. The 1 1 statues, and the reliefs which adorn the external arch, ai-e by GugUelmo delta Porta. 8 niches in the interior are also filled with statues, 6 of which ai-e by Matteo CivUaIe{1435- 1501) ; the Madonna and Baptist are by Sansovino (1503). The altar is by Giacomo and Gugliehno della Porta. The relics of the saint are contained iu an iron-bound chest, enclosed within a 13th cent, mai'ble coffer beneath the altar. On the 24th June they are carried in procession (see below). The next chapel, dedicated to the Holy Apostles, ha;s an architectural design (1503) with statues by Gugl. Porta. In the Treasury is preserved the Sacro Catino, long supposed to be composed of a single piece of emerald, and also variously asserted to be a gift fx'om the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, or the dish which held the Paschal Lamb at ttie Last Supper, or the vessel in which Joseph of Arimathea received the blood flowing from the side of the Redeemer. It was part of the spoils taken at Caesarea in 1101. The Cru- Boute 122. — Genoa : Churches. 491 saders and their allies divided the booty ; and the Genoese, under the command of Guglielmo Embriaco, selected this precious vessel as their portion. No stranger was allowed to touch the Catino, under heavy penal- ties : and the attempt to try the material by any test of its genuineness or hardness was punishable with fines, impi*isonment, or even death. Acute and sceptical travellers, as Keysler and the Abbe Barthelemy, in spite of these precautions, saw enough to lead them to suppose that the Catino was glass, which is now fully confirmed. But the perfection of the material, as well as of the workmanship, must always cause it to be considered as a very remarkable monument, of remote antiquity. The dish is hexa- gonal, with some slight ornaments, which appear to have been finished with the tool, as in gem engraving. The colour is beautiful, the trans- parency perfect ; but a few air- bubbles sufficiently disclose the substance of which it is made. The Catino was sent to Paris ; and when reclaimed was so carelessly packed that it broke by the way. The fragments have been united by a setting of gold fili- gree. The keys of the cabinet are kept in the Palazzo Municipale (fee, 5 fr.). Another valuable relic is the Cassone di San Giovanni, a shrine made in 1437 by Teramo di Daniele. It is a combination of Gothic panels, tracery, and finials of the most delicate workmanship in silver gilt. The sides are covered with the history of St. John; the figures being almost de- tached from the background. On the N., at No. 12, Via Arcive- scovado, is a small 13th cent. Cloister of round arches, originally in two stories. Only the N. side and part of the W. remain. Many chm-ches were demolished during the French occupation. Among those which remain, the most im- portant are S. Agostino (C. 4), now deseci-ated — a good specimen of 14th cent. Genoese Gothic. The campanile, in alternate courses of white and black marble, is remarkable. S. Ambrogio (C. 4) was built for the Jesuits at the expense of the Pallavicini family. The interior is covered with showy marbles, mosaics, gold, and colours. The ord chapel on the rt. has a colossal Assumption by Guido Beni, a powerful composi- tion, with fine heads, "one of those masterpieces which leave one cold," Cic. The Circumcision, over the High Altar, by Rubens, was painted before he came to Genoa, in ignorance of the height and the position whence it would be seen, and in it " he still struggles with the conception and colour of the Caracci," Cic. *St. Ignatius healing a Demoniac, in the 1. aisle, "is in conception, form, and colom- of a refined noble naturalism, which immensely surpasses the Neo- politans : in the Saint, for instance, the Spanish nobleman is still re- presented, his expression immensely brought out by the cunning indifferent character of the priests and chorister boys around him," Cic. The four fine Corinthian columns at the high altar are of Porto Venere marble. The Annunziata (A. 4) was rebuilt in 1587 and decorated at the expense of the Lomellini family, formerly sovereigns of the island of Tabarca off the N. coast of Africa, which they held until 1741, when it was taken by the Bey of Tunis. The interior, rich in marbles, has been regilded and restored in a gaudy style. Over the entrance, in a bad light, is the Last Supper, by Frocaccini. In the 1st chapel on the 1. are three horrible but vigorous martyrdoms, by Genoese artists. The Annunziata di Portoria, N. of S. Stefano (C. 5), has a good Eenais- sance double doorway. S. Cosma (C. 4) has a good round- headed doorway, six old columns in the nave, and a 14th. cent. Virgin and Child on gold ground to the 1. of the high altar. 492 ItoiUe 122. — Genoa: Churches. San Donate (C. 4) stands on the site of a more ancient edifice, some of whose cohimns, in granite and cipol- lino, it retains. At the first altar on the 1. is an Adoration of the Magi, by a Netherlandish master. The octa- gonal bell-tower is of an eai"ly period. San Giovanni di Pre (A. B. 4) was built by the Knights of St. John, in the loth cent. : some of the round arches of the original edifice are still visible ; the present entrance has been cut into the tribune at the E. ex- tremity of the old Church, at a later period. It was in a rich convent attached thereto that Urban V. re- sided on his return from Avignon. Some remains of the ancient Cloisters may be yet seen. Here also Urban VI. caused to be barbarously executed five cardinals, made prisoners at the siege of Lucera in 1386 ; the 6th, Cardinal Adam of Hex'tford, is said to have been spared in consequence of the intercession of his countrymen, then influential at Genoa. In making some excavations the skeletons of these unfortunate victims of Papal ven- geance were discovered. The CRYPT,now used as a warehouse, dates from 1261, but is singularly like English work of a century earlier. Most of the capitals are cushioned, but some are carved, and these are of later chai-acter. The head of S. John the Baptist in a recess over the doorway, with an inscription round it, is very curious. The letters have small letters inserted in them, a custom of the 11th cent, or earlier. The broad Via di Ponte Carignano (C. D. 4) leads over a noble viaduct built by the Sauli. It was begun in 1718, and joins two hills, crossing the streets and houses below. Some of these houses are seven stories high ; the bridge rises far above their roofs, and affords a cool and pleasant evening walk. At the S. extx-emity is the Church of ♦S. M. di Carignano, finely situated on a hill, built from Alessi's designs about 1552, and endowed by the Sauli family. It is in the form of a Greek cross, with a lofty dome. Be- neath the cupola are four colossal statues, of which St. Sebastian and the blessed Alessandro Sauli are by Puget. The pictures, almost always covered, include : Guercino, St. Francis receiving the stigmata ; Cam- biaso, a large Deposition, on which the painter has "put forth his whole sti-ength ; calmly, without any wild pathos, without any crowding, the event is developed in noble energetic forms of deep inward expression," Cic. ; Carlo Maratta, Martyrdom of S. Biagio ; Vanni of Siena, St. Catharine receiving the Sacrament. In the Sacristy is a remarkable picture of SS. John Bapt., Fabian, Sebastian, and Anthony the Hermit, with the Annunciation and Deposition above, and a predella of Christ and the Apostles, attributed to Albert Diirer. A fine *view is obtained from the top of the cupola (50 c). S. M. delle Vigne, a little N. of the Via degli Orefici (B. 4), has a good 13th cent. Tower, figures of Christ with SS. Lawrence and George over a side door, a wooden Crucifix by Maragliano at the end of the N. aisle, and the remains of an 11th cent. Cloister on the N. S. M. di Castello (C. 4) dates from 1150. The style is Lombardic. The handsome nave has eight round arches, supported by granite columns with Corinthian and composite capitals, taken from some Roman edifice. In the 3rd chapel on the 1, is a curious 15th cent. Annunciation. In the 5th chapel on the rt., which is adorned with majolica, is a picture by Pier Francesco Sacchi, of SS. John Baptist, Thomas Aquinas, and Antonino of Florence. The choir contains tombs of the Giustiniani, protectors of this Convent, which belonged to the order of St. Dominic. The Gothic stone pulpit to the 1. of the high altar, and the incised gravestones of the Genoese families, deserve notice. In the transept is a fresco of the Annun- ciation, by Justus de Allamagna (1451). Route 122. — Genoa : Churches. 493 *San Matteo (C. 4), an interesting little Chui'ch, was founded in 1125 by Martino Doria, an ecclesiastic of the family. The front (1278) is a good specimen of Genoese Gothic, formed of alternate courses of black and white marble, t Five of the white courses bear inscriptions relating to the achievements of the family. On the pilasters are the Genoese and Doria shields, the red cross on a white ground and an eagle erect. The upper- most inscription commemorates the great naval victory of Scorzola (Sept. 7, 1298) gained by the Genoese, under Lamba Doria, over the Venetian fleet commanded by Andrea Dandolo, both being amongst the most honoured names in the military annals of Italy. In the ancient Roman urn above, with reliefs of children and dead animals, were deposited the remains of Lamba Doria (1323). Above the principal door is one of the very few mosaics still existing in Genoa. It is in the ancient Greek style. The interior was splendidly reconstructed at the expense of the great Andrea Doria : it consists of a small Nave and aisles, with five arches supported by com- posite columns of white marble : be- hind the altar is a small choir, with a good Piet^ by Montorsoli, who re- modelled the Church. He also sculp- tured the statues of the prophets Jeremiah and David, the saints John Bapt. and Andrew, and the Evan- gelists, as well as the marble urn and the reliefs on both pulpits. The ornaments and figures on the monu- ment of Count Filippo Doria over the two lateral altars were his work. High above the altar hangs the sword sent to Doria in 1535 by Paul III,, for the services he had rendered in the cause of the Church. The Chapels contain the remains of SS. Maurus, Eleuterius, and Maximus, brought here from Istria by Pagano Doria. On the 1. is a well-cai-ved Organ-loft. t This mode of construction was confined at Genoa to public edifices and to buildings erected by the Commune. The four great families of Doria, Grimaldi, Spinola, and Fieschi, alone among the patricians, had the privilege of employing it. In the Crypt beneath the high altar is the tomb of Andrea Doria, also by Montorsoli, who executed the stucco designs in the vault representing the deeds of the great Andrea. In the ad- joining *Cloister (early 14th cent.), are several sepulchral inscriptions of the Doria family, brought from the suppressed church of S. Dominic, and others ; and fragments of the two colossal statues of Giannetto Doria, who commanded at Lepanto, and of another member of the family, erected in front of the Ducal Palace in 1 577 by the Senate : they were thrown down and mutilated by the revolu- tionary rabble in 1797. In the adjoining Piazza are some curious specimens of 15th cent, domestic architecture. Over the door of the House in the S.W. corner is an inscription stating that it was given to Andrea Doria by the Republic : Senat. Cons. Andrese de Oria Patrise Lihera- tori Munus Publicum. Here A. Doria lived — it was in this small square that he assembled his fellow-citizens in 1528, to consult on the means for driving ofi" the French, by whom Genoa was then besieged. The door- way has some beautifully sculptured arabesques. Over the door of a House facing the W. front is a cui'ious relief of St, George and the Dragon, with the Virgin and a Doge of Genoa ; and on another a long inscription relative to the victories gained by one of the Doria family, to whom it belonged. S. of the Church is another ornamented doorway, surmounted by a relief; and at No. 1 Via David Chiossone, leading ] out of the Piazza to the N.VV., is a ! curious relief representing a conqueror t in a triumphal car drawn by centaurs. j Near S. Matteo are the Industrial ' Schools (Scitole Techniche), the stair- I case leading to which is decorated j with encaustic tiles, made at Savona. San Siro (B, 4), the most ancient Christian foundation in Genoa, is asso- ciated with important events in its history. It was until 904 the Cathe- dral, under the title of the Basilica dei Dodici Apostoli. In this church the assemblies of the people were held. 494 Boiite 122. — Genoa: Palaces and Picture Galleries. Here Guglielmo Boccanegra was pro- claimed Capitano del Popolo in 1257. Hitherto tlie powers of governmeut had been wholly enjoyed by the aris- tocracy. This revolution first broke down the barrier; and although the office of CJ^pitauo del Popolo did not continue permanent, it prepared the ■way for great changes in the con- stitution. Here, in 1339, Simone Boc- canegra was created the fii'st Doge of Genoa, amidst cries of " Viva il •popolo!" marking the influence by which he had been raised. His elec- tion \vas, in fact, the crisis of another revolution : the government was com- pletely transferred from the nobles to the people. The actual Church exhibits few traces of the original edifice, but the cam- panile behind is of early date. The interior is handsome, in the Renais- sance style. The best paintings are — Bernardo Castello, The Saviour in the Temple ; Fomarancio, Adoration of the Shepherds ; Castello, S. Catharine of Siena ; Nativity of the Virgin, by Aurelio Lomi (4th. rt.). S. Stefano (C. 5), a building of the 13th cent., has a typical Genoese front, striped black and white, and a very beautiful red brick Tower. Over the high altar is the *martyrdom of the patron saint, by Giulio Romano. It is concealed by an unsightly taber- nacle and candlesticks, and a fee is demanded for showing it. It was sent to Pai'is by Napoleon, and the head of the saint and other pai'ts ■were there retouched by Girodet. ** Veiy careful, beautifully modelled. The lower group round the principal figure is still one of the finest pro- ductions of Italian art." — Cie. PALACESf AND PICTURE GALLERIES. The most striking Palazzi in Genoa are those of the Via Garibaldi (for- t The proper translation of the word Pa- lazzo, which the Italians apply to any large private rendence, is not Palace, but Mansion ; just as the French Place, in an architectural sense, is not a Place, but a Square. merly Nuova), Via Nuo-vissima, and Via Balbi. •' The usual disposition exhibits a large hall supported partly on columns leading to a court sur- rounded by arcades, the arches of which likewise rest upon columns. Sometimes, on one side of the street, these courts are on a level with the external pavement ; while on the other the rapid rise of the ground is compensated by a flight of marble steps. Beyond this court i^ the great staircase rising on each hand, and fm-ther still is frequently a small gar- den, shaded with oi-anges ; so far the composition is admirable. The long perspective of halls, courts, columns, arches, and flights of steps, produces a magnificent efiect. But the chief merit of the buildings lies in these parts. There are internally fine apartments, but by no means of mag- nificence corresponding to that of the entrance." — Woods. Many of them contain pictures by Biibens and Van- dych, both of whom resided here, and the number of porti-aits left by the latter borders on the incredible. The more remarkable are : — Palazzo Adorno (not always visible), No. 10, Via Garibaldi, designed by Alessi. The fcm- eminent families of the Capellazzi (Adorni, Guax'chi, Fre- gosi, and Montaldi), fi'om 1339 to 1528, contested amongst themselves the government of the republic. There are here some good frescoes by Taverone, the subjects being taken from Genoese history. The pictures include ; — Dejanira and Hercules in the Garden of the Hesperides, by Rubens; Judith, by Guido Reni ; Virgin and Saints, by Raima Vec- chio ; Madonna and Saints, by Luca Camhiaso ; a frieze, with amorini, by Dom. Piola ; "four miniature pictures, highly chai'acteristic exam- ples of the antique and allegorical tendency of Mantegna's school, which, here turns into an agreeable rococo the Triumph of Judith, the Triumph over Jugurtha, Love chained bj' the Nymphs, and Love led awav Captive." — Cic. Boufe 122. — Genoa : Palazzo Brignole Sale, 495 The Arcivescovado (Archiepiscopal ; Palace) contains some good frescoes j by L. Camhiaso. ♦Palazzo Balbi Senarega, No. 4, Strada Balbi (Adm. 10 to 4, 1 fr.). A fine palace, built in the early part of the 17th cent., from the designs of Bart. Bianco and Pier Ant. Corradi. The court is surrounded by Doric co- lonnades. The rooms are richly decor- ated, and give a good idea of the dwellings of the wealthy Genoese aristocracy : the vaulted ceilings are painted by native artists. The Pic- ture Gallery ranks third in importance in Genoa. The Great Hall (Saloke) is a magnificent square room, and contains i — Vandyck, *Equestinan portrait of | Francesco Maria Balbi ; Bermirdino i Strozzi (II Cappuccino), Joseph in- j terpreting the Chief Butler's Dream, j 2nd Eoom,— Titian, Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine, Dominic and donors, ''by Pordenone" Cic; Van- dych, Virgin and Child ; Bvbens, Our Lord and St. John the Baptist as in- fants. 3rd Room. — Vandych, *Portrait of alady inblue-and-gold dress, seated; ♦Equestrian portrait of Paolo Balbi the senator, painted over by Velasquez vnth the head of Philip II. of Spain, to save it from destruction when Balbi was disgraced and banished from Genoa. 4th Room. — Caravaggio, Convei'sion of St. Paul; "a. master- piece, the execution most careful and irresistibly beautiful." Cic. ; Dutch School, Holy Family, and Nativity ; Strozzi, St. Joseph and the Infant, with a globe. 5th Room, Library. — Bassano, Market. 6th Room (Gal- lery). — Bronzino, Man in armour ; Flemish School, Lady's Portrait ; Grechetto, Finding of Romulus and Remus ; Journey of Abraham ; Spagnoletto, Philosopher, and Mathe- matician ; Tintoretto, *Male portrait ; Vandych, Holy Family ; Portrait of a Spanish Gentleman on horseback; An. Caracci, Young Woman's por- ti-ait ; Paris Bordone, Copy of Titian's Danae; Rubens, Man's head; Jan Brueghel, Temptation of St. Anthony — very curious ; Memling, Our Saviour on the Cross ; Filippino Lippi, Com- munion of St. Jerome ; Paolo Veronese, Portrait of a Venetian Doge. Palazzo Durazzo (formerly Brig- nole), in the Piazza Brignole, with two colossal Terms at the portal. The vestibule is decorated with mo- dern arabesques and frescoes. Here is preserved an extensive collection oi Engravings, said^to exceed 50,000 in number. ♦Palazzo Brignole Sale, also called Palazzo Rosso, from the outside being painted red, is in the Sti'ada Nuova, No. 18 : its front is very ex- tensive, and, were it not for its colour, the architecture would appear to ad- vantage. A splendid suite of rooms on the second floor contains the extensive Picture Gallery (Adm. on Mou., Thm-s., and Sat., 10 to 3 ; Library on Mon. and Thurs.). Hand catalogues in French and Italian in each room. The Duchess of Galliera, only daughter of the late Marquis Brig- nole, with the consent of her husband, munificently presented this Palace to the city in 1874, with its gallery, library, and other contents, and an endowment for its maintenance. Rooms I. and II. contain ceiling decorations and porti'aits. Room Ill.—Gtierci 'Cleopatra ; Strozzi, Cook plucking a Swan; Charity; L. Camhiaso, Holy Family. Room IV. — CSalone), a magnificent square hall, the ceiling decorated with armoiial bearings. Frescoes by Deferrari are on the roof. On one of the tables is a large model, in white marble and bronze, of a monument to Columbus, executed by Razzi at the expense of Marquis Brignole. Pic- tures by Domenico Piola, and Guido Bono, Genoese artists. Room V.— Stanza della Prima- vera. — Paris Bordone, Lady's por- trait ; Titian, Man's portrait ; Moretto, ♦Botanist (1533); Tintoretto, Man's portrait ; ♦ Vandych, Marcantonio Giulio Brignole Sale on horseback, and bis wife; Prince of Orange in armour; 496 Boute 122. — Genoa : Palazzo 3Iunicrpale. Portraits of father and son; Titian, Philip II. ; Giacomo Bassano, Por- traits of father and son ; Faris Bar- dnne, *>lan with red sleeves, "a won- derful portrait/' Room VI. — Guercino, Cato killing himself; Luca Giordano, Olinda and Sophronia ; Lod. Caracci, Annuncia- tion, on copper ; Luca d'OIanda, ]\Ian's portrait ; Holbein, *Portrait of a young lady ; Strozzi, St. Thomas ; Caravaggio, Raising of Lazarus : gone very dark. "One of the remarkable l)roductions of the less refined na- tiu-alism." — Cic. Paolo Veronese, Boy praying; *Guido Beni, St. Sebastian. Room VII. — Bonifazio Yen., Adora- tion of the Magi ; '• feeble, with beau- ; tiful details," Gu/^oi?e«/, Madonna; ! Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family ; j ' ' genuiue replica of a picture in the Pitti Palace." Guercino, Holy Family, with saints ; Venetian School, Francis- cus Philetus, Doctor (by Pordenone, C. and C); Gnido Beni, St. Mark writing ; Tintoretto, Man's portrait. Room VIII. — Paolo FeroM^^e, Judith ; Giaco7no Bassano, Man praying in Prison ; P. Bordone, Man's porti-ait ; Pellegro Piola, St. Ursula. VandijcTx, Christ with the two Pharisees ; " sim- ply a new edition of Titian's Cristo della Moneta; the head of Christ empty, those of the old men excellent,'' Cic. — Buhens, Man's portrait. Spagno- htto, Philosopher ; P. Bordone, Por- trait of a young man; Procaccini, Madonna and Saints ; Domenichino, St. Roch; C. Maratta, Flight into I^gypt ; *Pellegro Piola, Holy Fam- ily. ' ' He has shown a specially beautiful naturalism in his pictures here." — Cic. EOOM IX. — *Vandycl:, Portrait of a man in Spanish costume ; *Porti*ait of Geronima Brignole Sale and her little daughter. Paolo Veronese, Lady's Porti'ait ; A. Sacchi, Doedalus and Icarus ; Guercino, God the Father; F. Alba no, Children. Palazzo Camhiaso (Ganibaro), at the corner of the Via Garibaldi and Piazza Fontane Morose (Xo. 2), an excellent specimen of architecture, the proportions being harmonious without siiperfluous ornament. Ad- jacent is the Palazzo Carrega (Cataldi),hy G.B. Castello (1560), with a handsome staircase. Palazzo Cattaneo, near the Church of San Giorgio (C. 4), has eight por- traits by Vandyck in a room on the second floor. Palazzo Mnnicipale (Doria-Tursi), Via Garibaldi, Xo. 9, built by Bocco Lurago, of Como, for the Doge Xic- col5 Gi'iraaldi, from whom it passed to one of the Doria family, created Duke of Tursi. The fine front is flanked by terraces with open arcades, upon which rest gardens. In the lower covtile are some very mediocre frescoes relative to the visit to Genoa of Don John of Austria, removed fi'om the Ducal Palace. On the stairs are frescoes by Carlone, removed from the demolished Church of S. Sebas- tiano, and a statue of Joseph Mazzini, by Saccoinanno. On the first floor, in the Council-Chamber, is a bust of Columbus ; a box, supported by a hollow pillar, containing some inter- esting MSS. of that great navigator ; and three autograph letters — one to the Bank of St. George, transmitting his will (1502), by which he be- queathed one-tenth of all he possessed to that establishment, and another to Oderigo, the Genoese agent in Spain, complaining that the bank had never acknowledged the receipt of the will. Xo trace of the will has been discovered amongst the records of the Banco di S. Giorgio. The two mosaic heads of Columbus and Marco Polo, by Sah'iati, were presented to the city by Venice in 1868. In the next room is a Madonna between St. Jerome and a Bishop, by Gerard David, of Bruges ; a Cruci- fixion, by some old Xetherlandisli 1 master (not Diirer) ; and a triptych, ! with the Adoration of the Magi, &c. Here also is one of the most re- markable monuments of the history of Genoa — a bronze table, containing the award made a. u. c. 633, by Quintns itoute 122. — Genoa: Palazzo Doriai 497 Mal'Cug Minutius and Q. F. Rufus, between the (?e;iMenses and the Viturii, supposed to be the inhabitants of Lan- gasco and Voltaggio, in the upper valley of the Polcevera, who had been disputing about the extent of their respective territories, and had appealed to the Senate from the local autho- rities. The table was discovered in 1506 by a peastint when digging his land near Piedimonte, 6 m. from Genoa. He brought it to Genoa for the purpose of selling it as old metal ; but the Senate purchased it for the commonwealth. In an adjoining cabinet are Paga- nini's portrait ;j his violin, attributed to Stradevarius ; and a piece of em- broidery representing the mai'tyrdom of St. Lawrence, said to date from A.D. 1001— a gift of the Greek Em- peror Palseologus. Palazzo Giorgio Doria, 6, Via Gari- baldi (not always shown), contains a fine fiill-length portrait of a Lady, by Vandyck; the Duchess of Sforza Cesarini, School oi Leonardo da Vinci; and a Shepherd and Shepherdess, by Benedetto Castiglione. Palazzo Doria (A. 3). The gardens, towards the sea, form a fine feature in the panorama of the port. This pile was given to the great Andrea Doria, in 1522, and partly rebuilt by him in 1529. The stately feelings of this Doria, who is emphatically called *'Il Pi'incipe " (for that title of dignity had been granted to him by Charles V.), are expressed in the inscrij^tion which is engraved on the exterior of the edifice: "Divino munere, Andreas D'Oria CevEe F. S. R. Ecclesise Caroli Imperatoris Catolici maximi et in- victissimi Francisci primi Francorum Regis et Patrice classis triremium iiii. praefectus ut maximo labore jam fesso corpore honesto otio quiesceret, redes sibi set successoribus instauravit, M.D.xxxviii." Doria's architect was Montorsoli, a Florentine ; but many portions were designed by Pierino del Vaga, who, sorrowful and needy, driven from Rome by the calamities which had befallen the Eternal City N. Italy. when stormed by the Imperialists in 1527, was kindly received by Doria. He worked here, not merely as a painter, but as a general decorator; and it was Doria's express wish to reproduce in his palace, as much as possible, the magnificence of the build- ings which Raphael had adorned at Rome. Andrea died in 1560, at the age of 92. The decorations introduced by Pie- rino are still to be seen, after having undergone restoration (1845), on the staircase, in the vestibule, and in some of the rooms. The best is the defeat of the Titans by Jupiter, on the ceiling of the Saloon. Here also is a portrait of Andrea with his favourite cat, and a handsome chimney-piece. In the gallery that leads to the terrace above the garden are por- traits of Andrea Doria and his family. The figures are in a semi- heroic costume : Andrea Doria is grey-headed, his sons are helmeted, and supporting themselves upon their shields. In the garden are walks of cypress and orange, fountains, statues, and vases. The fountain in the centre represents Andrea in the cha- racter of Neptune, by Carlone. On the other side of the Rly. is another j garden, with a monument raised by Giovanni Doria to 11 gran Roldano, a favourite dog (d. 1605, aged 9) : here also is a grotto built by Alessio^ now almost a ruin, and a colossal Statue of Hercules. The successive employ- ments held by Doria enabled him to acquire great wealth. With these riches he kept a fleet of 22 galleys ; a force with which he turned the scale against the French, and accomplished the deliverance of Genoa (11th Sept. 1528) from the heavy yoke which they imposed. It was under Doria's influence and counsel that the form of government was established in Genoa which lasted till the French revolution. He was offered the ducal authority for life, and there is no doubt but that he might have acquired the absolute sovereignty (see p. 500). The elder branch of the Doria family, to whom this palace belongs, since its alliance with th© 2 K 498 Boute 122. — Genoa: Palazzo Mar cello Durazzo, Papal family of Pampbili, resides at Rome. Palazzo Ducale, in the Piazza Nuova (C. 4), was formerly the residence of the Doges of the republic, who held office for two yeai'S. The great dun- geon tower, with its grated windows, is the only part of the 13th cent, building which now remains. The Palace now contains the law-courts, the prefecture, and offices connected with the public administration, as well as the telegraph office. The front is ornamented with columns, and statues of Genoese woi-thies. The vestibule, forming a large hall, is supported by 80 columns of white marble : a fine staircase leads, on the rt., to the apartments of the governor, on the 1. to the hall of the senate. The latter is decorated with indifferent paintings of subjects connected with the history of Genoa. Of these, the best are copies from pictures of SoUmena, that existed before the fire of 1777, the Deposition of the Relics of St. John the Baptist, and the Discovery of America by Columbus. There is also a large picture by I. David, represent- ing the battle of Meloria. The hall also contained statues of the gi-eat men of Genoa. These were destroyed by the republicans of 1797 ; and upon occasion of the fete given to Napoleon as the restorer of the liberties of Italy, their places were supplied by statues of straw and wicker work, coated with plaster of Paris, which still remain. The great hall, 130 ft. by 55, has 56 columns and pilasters of broccatello marble, with yellow marble pedi- ments. Palazzo MarceUo Durazzo, formerly della Scala, 1, Via Balbi, was erected in the 17th cent., by Bart. Blanco. The beautiful court is surrounded by a Doric colonnade of white marble, from a corner of which opens the *flight of stairs, designed by And. Tagliafico, which gave the Palace its name. It is rich, but confused in details. The statues of Union and Force, in the lower vestibule, are by Traverso and Bavacchh. On the first floor is the Picture Gal- lery. — 1st Room : Family Busts. — 2nd Room : Guercino, Mucius Scajvola ; Rubens, Silenus; School of Memling, Descent from the Cross; Vandyck, *James I. and his family. Unhnown, Virgin and Children. — 3rd Room : Strozzi, Portrait of a bishop ; Ann. Caracci, ]\Ian's . jjortrait ; Titian, Magdalen (old copy). — 4th Room : Baolo Veronese, ^larriage of St. Catha- rine ; *Vandycli, Portrait ; GuidoBeni, Vestal Virgin; Tintoretto, Portrait of a Durazzo. In the centre, two beautiful porcelain vases. — 5th Room: Porcelain. — Qth.'B.oovQ.-.Domeni- chino, Christ after His Resurrection ; * VandycU, Portrait of a boy in white silk; Three children of Charles I. with dog ; Domenichino, Venus, Adonis, and amoretti ; *Buhens, Philip IV. of Spain ; SpagnoJetto, Democritus and Heraclitus; *Vandyck, Lady with two children, " the most beautiful Van- dyck which Genoa jDOSsesses," Cic. ; Caravaggio, Psyche, a brilliant pic- tm-e ; Titian, Ceres, Bacchvis, Cupid, and nymph (old copy). — 8th Room : Flemish 15th cent. Vii'gin and Child, with St. Francis and donors; Dutch 15th cent. *Piet^.— 9th Room : Old German Crucifixion, with Saints. There is also a Library of 7000 vols. Palazzo Parodi, 3, Via Garibaldi, has striking facade, opening into a hand- some cortile, and frescoes by Luca Cambiaso. Palazzo Pallavicini, in the Strada Carlo Felice, No. 12, This family, one of the most ancient in Genoa, were lords of the Stato PaUavicino, a rich territory near the Po (Rte. 102). Sir Horatio Palvasene, J "Who robbed the Pope to pay the Queen, was receiver and banker to the court of Rome during the reign of Mary ; and having a good balance in his hands at the accession of Elizabeth, could not then reconcile himself to the iniquity of letting so much money go out of the country to be employed against his new sovereign. He built Route 122. — Genoa: Public Buildings 499 Babraham in Cambridgeshire, and be- came afterwards allied by marriage with the Cromwells. The palace con- tains a fine staircase. The collection of pictnres formerly here is dispersed amongst co-heiresses, the largest part j being removed to the Pal. Marcello Durazzo. There is another large Palazzo Pal- lavicinl (Luigi), in the Piazza Fontane Amorose (No. 27). Palazzo Reale, 10, Via Balbi (open daily), formerly belonging to the Du- razzo family, was purchased by the King of Sardinia in 1815, and splen- didly fitted up by Charles Albert in 1842, as a royal residence. It is the largest 'and handsomest palace in Genoa. The fi-ont is nearly 300 feet in length ; it was built from the de- signs of G. A. Falcone and P. F. Cantone. The greater part of the pictures have been removed to the Koyal Gallery at Turin. Among those which remain are a portrait of the Lombard School, and the Woman taken in adultery, attributed to Moretto. Palazzo Serra, Via Garibaldi, No. 12, by Alessi — a green house with large Terms at the door. The gilding of the saloon is said to have cost a million of francs, and with the white marble reliefs, caryatides, mirrors, and mosaic pavement, procured for this palace its name of the Palazzo del Sole. Palazzo Spinola, Via Garibaldi, No. .5, a large and fine building, has Frescoes by Semino ; Agostino Spinola on horseback, by Vandyclc ; a remark- able portrait of a Philosopher in a black dress, by Sehastiano del Piomho ; a finely preserved and beautifully painted circular picture of the Virgin and child, by Beccafiimi ; a Madonna, by Vandyclc ; and a Holy Family, with two Saints, by Luini, " excellent, pro- bably by Andrea Salaino," Cic. black marble ; in front arc five niches containing statues of members of the family, with inscriptions in Gothic characters beneath. Within are fres- coes by Camhiaso of the Combat of the Titans, executed at eighteen years of age. There is a third Pal. Spiaola in the Salita di S. Catarina (B. 5), which has been curtailed in the course of recent street improvements. *Palazzo dell' TTniversita, Via Balbi, No. 5, was erected at the expense of the Balbi family, from the designs of Bart. Bianco, and for the use of the Jesuits, who held it until their ex- pulsion in 1773. The vestibule and the noble cortile are amongst the finest specimens of the kind. Two huge lions flank the staircase. The halls are decorated with frescoes in honour of the Jesuits by Genoese painters, and with oil pictures. The Hall of Medicine contains some bronze statues by Giovanni Bologna ; in the Great Hall are six Virtues by the same sculptor ; and in a third room above are a number of reliefs in bronze. The bronze relief of the Entombment is by Francavilla. The Museum of Natural History contains a good col- lection of the birds and fishes of this part of Italy. The Library (open daily) contains 70,000 vols. There is also a collection of ancient Genoese coins. The University consists of three faculties, Law, Medicine, and Humanities. In each there is a senate composed of twelve doctors, by whoni the degrees are conferred. In the Church belonging to the University is a relief in bronze, and in the Sacristy a good Descent from the Cross, both by Gifjv. Bologna. Behind the Uni- versitj'' Palace is a small Botanic Garden; in the court leading to it several curious insci'iptions removed from suppressed churches, and on tho top of the palace a Meteorological Observatory. Palazzo della Casa, formerly Spinola 1 public buildings. dei Marmi, in the Piazza delle Fontane | Amorose, an edifice of the 15th cent.. The Accademia delle Belle Arti, close built of alternate courses of white and i to the Theatre in the Piazza Deferrari, 2 K 2 600 Itouie 111. — Crenoa: Charilahle inat'ituiionn. was founded by the Doria family . i The society consists of Proteitori, or I subscribing patrons, and of working academicians. The building contains numerous schools in the different departments of art, attended by a , large body of pupils. On the stairs are four fine columns of Porto Venere marble, from the suppressed church j of San Domenico. The 1st room contains a beautiful *Coronation of the Virgin by Luca della Bohhia, with SS. John Bapt., ' Mary Magd., Bernardino, Francis, and two others. In the 2nd room are several good single figures of Saints, by unknown masters. Then follows a suite of rooms with modern pictures, bronzes, majolica, and casts. The Public Library (in summer 7 A.M. to 10 P.M., in winter 8 to 11), on the second floor, contains nearly 50,000 vols., including many usef\il modern works. In the land Arsenal (A. 3) are many curious objects, formerly de- ! posited in the Ducal Palace : a rostrum ' of an ancient galley, Roman, or Cartha- i ginian, found in the port ; a cannon of wood bound round with iron, said to j have been employed by the Venetians j in the defence of Chioggia, when at- tacked by the Genoese fleet ; a good The historical Banco di San Giorgio (B. 4), now degraded into the Custom- house, was the most ancient banking and trading company in Europe. It was founded in 1346, and is adorned with statues of local worthies, but is no longer shown. On the 1st floor are the Archives. The Teatro Carlo Felice is an elegant structui-e. It was opened in 1828, and ranks in size after the Scala at Milan, the S. Carlo at Naples, and the Thea- tre of Reggio. It is opened for operas and ballets during carnival and spring. 1 Other Theatres are the Foliteama ' Genovese, E. of the Villetta Dinegro, opera and comedy ; Fcuganini (B. 5), the same ; and various minor places of popular resort, for equestrian per- formances, puppet-shows, and music. I In the Via Carlo Alberto, near the ! Piazza Darsena (A. B. 4), is a Statuette of Columbus in a niche, with an inscrip- tion ; and beside it a small group I representing Andrea Doria in the ' act of refusing the ducal crown (see ! Pal. Doria). CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. The great Albergo de' Poveri(A. 4) was founded in 1655, by Emanuele Brignole, and unites the care of the store of halberts, partizans, and other j poor within its walls to the admin Is- weapons, many of unusual forms. The Exchange, or Loggia de' Banchi (B 4), is an interesting monument of the ancient commercial splendour of Genoa. It consists of a lai-ge hall, the sides of which ai'e supported by arches now glazed in, built by Galeazzo Alessi (1570-1596). The roof is skilfully constructed, the tie-beams being con- cealed in the concave of the ceiling ; and the quantity of wall upon which the roof rests is so small, that the whole is considered as a very bold effort in construction. The fine marble Statue of Count Cavour is by Vela. In front is the place of meeting of the corn and oil merchants — an animated scene during the hours of business. tration of many charitable endowments for their benefit. It is a stately building, about 190 yds. square, and encloses four large courts. In the centre of the cross which forms the ground plan of the inner wards is a Chapel, so placed that all the inmates can witness the celebration of the Mass without leaving their beds. At the altar is a beautiful marble relief, attributed to Michel Angelo. In the chapel is a statue of the Virgin as- cending to Heaven, by Puget, one of his best works. This establishment will contain 1300 persons. The Ospedale di Pamatone (C. 5) was founded by Bartolommeo del Bosco, a Doctor of Laws, in 1423, and buili Boute 122. — Genoa: Charitable Institutions. 501 from the designs of Andrea Orsolini. It is a large building, adorned with statue^s of benefactors and supports, on an average, 1000 patients and 3000 foundlings. In front is a fountain with a bronze Statue of Battistino Baltlla, a Genoese boy of 15, who on Sept. 5, 1 74(i, threw a stone at the Austrian soldiers who had taken pos- session of the city under Gen. Botta Adorno, and gave the signal for a spirited and successful resistance. The Istituto Sordo-Muti, or Deaf and Dumb Asylum, founded by Ottavio Assarotti, a poor monk, in 1801, is celebrated throughout Italy. The Regio Manicomio (Lunatic Asylum), outside the Porta Romana, is an extensive modern building, con- sisting of six wings, converging towards a central edifice. It contains 700 patients. The large Hospital of St. Andrew (D. 5) was built by the architect Parodi, at the expense of the munificent Duchess of Ghilliera. In and about Genoa thei-e are as many as 15 Institutions styled Con- servatorie. They are all intended for females, and all are religious founda- tions, and regulated according to the monastic system, though the inmates do not take vows. Some are houses of refuge for the unmarried ; some penitentiaines for those who wish to abandon their evil courses ; some are schools for the higher branches of edu- cation ; some asylums for girls who are either orphans or the children of parents unable to maintain them. Of these, the largest is that of the Fies- chine (B. 6), It was founded in 1762 by Domenico Fieschi, for orphan girls, natives of Genoa, and now contains about 250 inmates ; they are em- ployed upon various light works, such as lace and embroidery, but prin- cipally in the manufacture of artificial flowers. Half the profits belong to the workers ; and with these they are often enabled, not only to relieve their relations, but even to accumulate a little money. The situation of the house, to which large gardens are finnexed, is very beautiful, The *Cainpo Santo (Public Cemetery) at Staglieno, about 1 1 m. outside the Porta Komana, in the valley of the Bisagno, is open daily from 10 a.m. until sunset. (Cab, there and back, waiting an hour, 5 fr. ; 2 horses, 7 fr. Omn., 25 c.) It was designed in 1838 by Resasco, and has cost about 44,O0OL It consists of a grand quadrangle sur- rounded by a cloister, in which are arranged the vaults and monuments of the wealthier classes. In some cases a vault costs 1500L The monu- ments are chiefly by native artists, in- cluding Santo Varni, Gagini, &c. Only the poor are placed in the ground; the rest occupy receptacles for which the lowest sum charged is 500 fr. In the centre of the N. side of the quadrangle is a fine cii'cular chapel, approached by a grand marble staircase. The gallery rouud the dome is supported by 16 Doric columns, 27 feet high and 1 1 feet in circumference, every one of a single piece of black Como marble. In the centre of the quadrangle is a colossal statue, 27 feet high, of Faith, by Santo Varni. Far up the hillside in the rock lies Giu- seppe Mazzini, in a massive granite tomb, with bronze gates (1872). From Albaro, 2 m. E. of Genoa, under which the Rly. passes in a tunnel, the ascent of Monte Fascia may be made in 3 hrs. Fine *view, and charming descent (Rte. 133) to Nervi. Steam Tramway to Pegll, with branch at Sampierdarena for Ponte- decimo (Rte. 11). 502 Boide 123.— Genoa to Pisa. ROUTE 123. GENOA TO I'ISA, BY SPEZIA. — RIVIERA DI LEVANTE. Miles. Stations. Routes. Genoa P. B. .11, 122 2 Genoa P. B. 4 Sturla 5 Quarto 6 Quint 8 Nervi 11 Sori 13 Kecco 14 Camogli 18 S. Margherita 19 Rapallo 21 Zoagli 24 Chiavari 26 Lavagna 27 Sestri Levante 35 Moneglia 38 Deiva 43 Levanto 46 Monterosso 48 Vernazza 57 Spezia 61 Vezzano 63 Areola 66 Sarzana 70 Luni 3 Carrara 73 Avenza 77 Massa 81 Serravezza 83 Pietrasanta 90 Viareggio 103 Pisa The entire" distance is well worth driving, or even walking, and the •carriage- road excellent. The only really good Hotels are at Nervi, S. Margherita, Rapallo, Spezia and Yia- I'eggio. At Sestri the road turns inland, and crosses the hills by the | Col dl Baracca. The pedesti'ian may devote a most enjoyable week to this beautiful coast, sleeping at S. Mar- gherita, Sestri, Borghetto, Spezia, and Pietra Santa, and catching an afternoon train for Pisa at Viareggio. This part of the Hiviei'a passes through a larger proportion of moun- tainous country than that on the western side of Genoa. It has less of a southern aspect, but it has similar I beauties of wide-spreading views over the loveliest land and water ; it is also finely indented by gulfs and bays, affording good anchorage for the many vessels which enliven the brilliant sea. The most beautiful part is the 8 m. between Rapallo and Chiavai'i. Much delay was caused in complet- ing this line by the difficulties of the route, and nearly 50 tunnels are pierced between Genoa and Spezia— no slight impediment to the enjoyment of the scenery. Local trains, in addition to the ordinary traffic, run twice daily in 2 hrs. betw^een Genoa and Chiavari, stopping at 25 stations on the way. On leaving Genoa (Rte. 122) the train backs out of the Terminal Stat. {Piazza Trincipe), and then runs in the opposite direction through a long tunnel under the city to the E. Stat. {Piazza BrignoJe). The Bisagno is crossed, and another tunnel leads to 4 m. Sturla, where we reach the sea. The villages of Quarto and Quinto, which follow in succession, were evi- dently stations at the 4th and 5th milestones along the Roman way. 8 m. Nervi (5800), a favourite winter residence, in a beautiful situation among olives and orange-gi'oves. The Church of San Siro has much gilding and some tolerable paintings. An old mansion, now in ruins, with decaying frescoes on the walls, is a picturesque object. There are several handsome villas here, that of the Gropallo family in particular. There is a pleasant footpath winding among rocks above the sea. Monte Fascia (2750 ft.), may be ascended from Nervi in 3 hrs. Fine *view. Descent to Alharo (p. 501). The Rly. now passes through several tunnels to Boute 123. — Sori — Bapallo. 503 11 m. Sori, beautifully situated fai' below the lofty viaduct, crossed by the train. 13 m. Recco, a town of bright coloured houses, backed by the hilly promontoxy of Porto Fino. [Omn. or carriage (4 fr.) to (3 m.) Buta, which the Rly. avoids by a tunnel. Thence pathway to (1 hi\) Porto Fino (see below). The high road at Ruta passes through a tunnel (120 yds.), beyond which the descent to Rapallo is very fine.] 14 m. Camogli, a busy little place with gaily-coloured houses, some of which are 8 or 10 stories high. The : Church is hung with ex-votos by j seamen and their wives. ! The Rly. passes in a tunnel under | the ridge of Ruta to 18 m. S. Margherita, ' a favourite watering - place close to the shore. The scenery is exquisite, and the walks delightful. The Church is richly though gaudily decorated with marble, painting, and gilding, in the style of the Annunziata at Genoa. The Genoese coral fishery is princi- pally carried on by feluccas fitted out in this neighbourhood. Very pretty coloured silk lace and elegant flasks, the glass of which is almost un- breakable, are here made. Omn. to [ Bapallo four times a day by a very I charming road. Close by, on the j Punta Pagano, is Villa Spinola, well ] worth a visit. [From Sta. Margherita an Omn. runs twice a day in connection i with the trains to (4 m.) Forto Fino, , commanding fine views all the way. | 3 m. along the road is [ Cervara, anciently Sylvana, a sup- j pressed convent, now a Boy's School. Here Francis I., made prisoner after the battle of Pavia, was detained ! until the arrival of the galleys which conveyed him to Spain. Soon after passing Cervara the road | goes through a cutting in the rock, near which, on a promontory, stands the old Castle of Paraggi, well restored by Mr, F. Brown, a Genoese banker. ' From the village in the adjacent bay very beautiful walks may be taken up the wooded valleys which run inland. At Porto Fino is another Castle, com- manding the harbour, and also well restored by Mr. M. Yeats Brown, H. ^I. Consul at Genoa, who has rendered it habitable without des- troying its ancient character. It con- tains a small Collection of old furniture, carvings, and pottery. A little higher up on another point of the same ridge is a second Castle belonging to the same owner, the key of which may be obtained at a cottage close by. At the extreme point of the rock is a little Shrine ovex'hanging the sea, and commanding a magnificent and most striking view. Higher up is a Villa built in 1884 by the late Earl of Car- naiwon, where the Crown Prince and Princess (Empress Frederic) stayed in Oct. 1886,] 19 m. Rapallo (11,500), a flourishing sea-port, and a pleasant winter resi- dence. It spreads beautifully along the shores of the bay, set ofi" by the churches and a lofty leaning cam- panile of many open stories. The houses are chiefly on arcades. On the sea-shore is a picturesque tower, similar to those on the Riviera di Ponente. Probably it was erected after the towns had been plundered by the coi-sair Dragutte, the terror of Italy and Spain, who, landing here in the night of 6th July, 1549, sacked the toAvn and carried off a great number of captives. The principal Church contains some paintings and curious inscriptions — • one supposed to be a dedication of the place by the Emperor Lewis II. in 856. Lace is manufactured here. Rapallo is celebrated for a festival in honour of the Madonna, which con- tinues during the first three days cf July. The processions last throughout the whole night ; the illuminations extend along the coast for 3 or 4 miles, the lamps being hung upon stakes fixed into the sands. 2 hrs. N.E. rises the Chapel of Montallegro (2015 ft.), surrounded by 504 Boiite 123. — Zoagli-^ Chiavan. fine moimtaiu scenery. It was founded about 1.557, in honour of a painting cast on shore from a ship-wrecked vessel, to which are attributed miracu- lous powers. The picture is of Greek workmanship, and execrable as a work of art. On the descent, a path to the rt. leads through ilex woods to Rapallo by the Church of S. Ambrogio, com- manding lovely views. An excellent carriage-road ascends S.W. from Rapallo to (4 m.) Ruta, passing San Lorenzo della Costa, where is an old German triptych of the Marriage in Cana, Martyrdom of St. Andrew, and Raising of Lazarus. Also a Holy Family and ^Martyrdom of the patron Saint, by Luca Camhlaso. From Ruta a path turns 1. along the ridge of the hills to the (1^ hi\) Sema- foro (2015 ft.), a *Telegraph Station commanding splendid views. From the foot of the final ascent a path descends rt. to San Bocco, and another 1. to Porto Fino. From the latter, on reaching the ( 5 hr.) crest of the hill, a path descends steeply rt. in 5 hr. to San Fruttuoso, a desecrated monastery in a picturesque solitary site, near the sea, at the opening of a deep ravine. It is now occupied by fishermen. The dilapidated Church was restored in 1735. In a sepulchral chapel in the ' cloister are some good Gothic tombs, in very neglected condition, of the Doria family. A little further is a cave on the beach where a boat may be taken | round the point of Porto Fino, and I along the rocky coast, to Pagi, near S. I Margherita— a pleasant row of 2 hrs. (3 fr.). I In walking from San Finittuoso to (2 hrs.) Porto Fino, just above the first house on the ascent towards the Semaforo, a path turns rt., and bearing well to the 1. on the summit of the ridge, joins the main path from the i Telegraph Station. | From Ruta a path strikes N. along the crest of the hill, passing a very | ancient desecrated Church, to the (l|hr.) Cappella di Caravaggio, con- spicuous on the summit of a conical hill. *Panaroma very fine, including the range of the Apennines inland, : From the foot of the rough stairs by j which the final ascent is made, a path descends steeply in an hour to S. M. di Canipo, 2 m. by road from Rapallo. j Beyond Rapallo, the Rly. skirts several beautiful little bays, with short tunnels between them, but much of the fine scenery is lost. 21 m. Zoagli. Here most of the famous Genoa velvet is made. The *carriage-road between this point and Chiavari ascends liigh above the sea, winding in and out of several deep ravines, and oSering some of the finest coast sceneiy in Europe. At | the top of the ascent is the Church of I S. M. delle Grazie, with damaged frescoes by Piaggia (1508), woi-th a visit. 24 m. Chiavari (12,000), chief city of the province, in the centre of a wide bay. Many of the streets are lined with arcades, whose arches are pointed and circular, with capitals which would puzzle an architect by their similarity to our early Norman, though probably not older than the 16th cent. The Church of the Madonna dell' Orto is annexed to the Ecclesiastical Seminary. The cupola was shattered by lightning some years ago. The portico has sixteen columns, six feet in diameter. In a passage leading out of the Church is a curious painting of St. Francis. Old and picturesque towers are dotted about the town. The Castle is now used for the offices of the municipality. Excellent cheap chairs are made here, and towels with fringed edges called macrame. Two of the Squares are adorned with Statues of Mazzini and Garibaldi. [Carriage-road N. to (10 m.) Borzonasca, a dirty village with an industrious population of 1500. Rough road X.E. (Chaise a porteur for ladies) to (2 hrs.) Sopra la Croce, a mountain hamlet with a mineral spring, in a charming situation. Baths, fine air, and numerous excursions.] Around Chiavari the agave grows luxuriantly, even in the very sand of the shore ; and at some points of view. Boute 123. — Lavagna — Borghetto. 505 when these plants constitute the fore- ground, and the fantastic, mosque-like cupolas of the churches ai-e seen in the distance, the scene assumes almost an oriental character. On leaving Chiavari the large monastery of Santa Chiara is passed on the 1. and the Entella is crossed to 26 m. Lavagna (6000), busy with its slates and ship-building. The path leading to the slate -quarries passes near to the Church of San Salvatore, founded by Innocent IV., a native of the town (1243-1254-), and completed by Adrian V. Both pontiffs were of the Fieschi family. The quarries, though not very picturesque in form or colour, are striking from their extent. The slates (Lavagne) are of a good quality, and might be split into slabs of 10 or 12 ft. in length, but for convenience of carriage they are reduced to about 3 ft. by 4. An argument for the antiquity of the employment of this material is found in the name of the Tegullii, the Ligurian tribe who in- habited this part of the coast previous to the Roman conquest. There are other quarries between Lavagna and Sestri, but nearer the sea. A strange red Palace, with bartizan towers, is here a conspicuous object. The large white marble Church is one of the most imposing on the Riviera and the adjoining Campo Santo has some hand- some tombs. 27 m. Sestri Levante (Buffet, poor), a favourite sea-bathing place, on an isthmus at the foot of a wooded pro- montory once an island. In San Pietro is a Holy Family, attributed to Pierino del Vaga, and in another Church the Descent of the Holy Ghost, by Fiasella. [Cai-riage-road to Spezia(two horses, 50 fr.). The road runs inland, and ascends through abare country, terraced on shoulders of the hills, and passing many lateral valleys whose sides end in headlands stretching into the sea. The most considerable village seen on the coast is Moneglia. The road, winding amongst rocks scantily covei'ed with grass, ascends to 7 m, Bracco (1350 ft.), in a com- paratively fertile nook, screened by still higher summits, and looking down a long green vista on the blue sea far below. The view embraces the Bay of Moneglia, Sestri, and its high pro- montory, the bay of Rapallo, and the headland of Porto Fino beyond. The ascent continues to 14 m. Osteria Baracca (2235 ft.), where cultivation nearly ceases. The views both towards the sea and inland are very fine. The geologist will find much to interest him between Sestri and the Pass, where he will be able to examine one of the finest ei'uptions of serpen- tine in Italy. On the ascent the serpen- tine may be seen piercing through the beds of calcareous slate, of the age of our chalk. Some good sections may be observed near the pass : in the cuttings made for the post-road the sei'pentine and diallage rocks will be seen not only forming veins or dykes in the limestone, but through each other. The country E. of the Pass is cut into deep ravines, and wherever the serpentine appears, the bareness and desolation so characteristic of this rock in every part of the world are seen. 19 m. Mattarana (1600 ft.). Fur- ther on is the village of Caradano inferior e, whence a steep ascent leads to Boverano, where there is an interesting contact of the serpentine with secon- dary strata. This low pass leads into the ravine, near which, at its junction with the Vara, is situated the village of 26 m. Borghetto. The road hence lies for a time near the bed of the Vara, a tributary of the Magra, and, after ascending the Ret to torrent to San Benedetto, or La Foee di Spezia (p. 507), a long descent, during which the traveller will enjoy many beautiful peeps over the sub- jacent bay and the distant mountains of Carrara, leads to 40 m. Spezia.jl 606 Route 123. — Moneglia — Spezia, Beyond Sestri the Rly. quits the coast, passing behind some considerable hills. Numerous tunnels lead to , 35 m. Moneglia (2000), with re- ! mains of its medireval fortifications i and battlemented wall on the hill to , the W. 43 m. Levanto (5000), a good \ bathing place, surrounded by over- hanging hills. Rough road N.W. to j (8 m.) Ostcria Baracca (see above). I In the Church of the 311 nor Friars [ is a painting attributed to Andrea j del Castagno, one of the first who ' px'actised oil painting in Italy. The ! subject is St. George and the Di'agon, I and the action is that for which Pis- trucci was so much criticised in his j design on the sovereigns of Geo. III. j The spear is broken, and St. George ' is despatching the monster with his j swoi'd. The picture was cai'ried off | by the French, and the Louvre num- | ber is yet upon the frame. The prin- cipal Church (14-63) is a fine building, though sadly modernized. Several of \ the houses bear marks of antiquity, j A small district in this neighbourhood ' belonging to five villages or commu- nities, and thence known as the j Cinque Terre, is remarkable for the [ beauty of its scenery, the primitive simplicity of its inhabitants, and the excellence of its wine. The vineyards 1 in some places overhang the sea. 46 m. Monterosso. This Church ' (1307) is also after the Genoese model. The sanctuary of the Madonna di \ Soviore on a lofty rock commands a most extensive prospect, reaching to j the island of Corsica. The annual j feast of the Virgin (15 August) is { attended by great numbers of people from the adjoining ports. The coast between the Capes of Monterosso and Porto Venere is extremely bold and arid. 48 m. Vernazza. The ''vino ama- bile " of this district had anciently a very high character. From Vernazza came the Fernoecm, quoted by Boccaccio and Sacchetti as the very paragon of good liquor. The present growth, howevei', seems to have declined in quality. Oranges and lemons grow well, and the fan-palm and the cactus opuntia flourish. Four tunnels, the last of which is moi'e than a mile long, lead to 57 m. SPEZIA (29,000), a busy forti- fied town, the chief naval arsenal of Italy, situated in the deepest part of its baj^, which is formed by branches of the Apennines advancing into the sea. There is much trade in wine and oil, which are produced abundantly from the hills around ; while in the neigh- bourhood are important quarries of paving stone and marble. Oranges and lemons are exported to the shores of the Black Sea. Spezia is much frequented by Italian families for sea-bathing, and by the English as a health-resort in winter. The beautiful country is studded with villas, each in its own thicket of luxuriant foliage, intermingled with the olive and the vine. An ancient Castle or tower, upon which the '* biscia," or viper, of the Visconti is yet to be seen, and a round citadel built by the Genoese, are conspicuous objects. The Gulf of Spezia was known by the ancients as the Gulf of Luna. Its situation is accurately described b}' Strabo as a geographer, and its climate by Persius, who found a retreat on its shores. It forms a natural harbour capable of containing all the fleets of Europe, and admirably secure. Hence Napo- leon, in the tx'iumphant stage of his career, selected it as the naval station of his empire in the Mediterranean. The bay is protected by a long fortified breakwater which stretches across its mouth with an opening for vessels at either end. It is constructed of marble, quarried from various places along the shore of the gulf, and cost 200,000?. The Italian Government has erected, on about 150 acres of ground, a very extensive Dockyard S.W. of the town, in which the largest iron-clad men-of- Boute 123. — S^ezia — Palmaria. 507 war are built and repaired. Per- mission to view can be obtained at the British Vice-Consulate. In front of the Arsenal is a marble Statue of General Domenico Chiodo, the constructor. In Sept. 1890, Adm. Principe Tommaso, Duke of Genoa, laid the first stone of a new Mercantile Port, which will add very considerably to the commercial importance of the town. The beautiful scenery of the Gulf of Spezia can be best seen by coasting along its 'shores in a boat. The road on the W. side affords a beautiful drive as far as (8 m.) Poi'to Venere (carriage, 10 frs,). Steamer twice daily in 1^ hr., there and back, 50 c. There are eight coves on the W. side of the gulf. Beginning at the N., they occur in the following order : — 1. Marolla, to which the pedestrian should cross from Spezia by boat, so as to avoid the long circuit round the Arsenal ; 2. Cassa di Mare, in the mouth of which rises the Polla spring. This remarkable phenomenon results from the gush of an abundant sub- marine freshwater spring, in reality a natm-al artesian well on a gigantic scale. It occupies a circular space 25 ft. in circumference, and sometimes rises above the adjoining sea-level ; 3. Fezzano ; 4. Panigaglia, where Na- poleon wished to make his dockyard ; 5. Delle Grazie ; 6. Varignano, where is the quarantine ground for vessels arriving at Genoa, an extensive laz- zaretto, and fortifications ; 1. La Cas- tagna ; 8. Porto Venere (2200), at the extremity of the S.W. promontory of the Gulf, one of the most picturesque places on the coast. The temple of Venus, from which this town is sup- posed to derive its name, stood pro- bably on the site of the dilapidated Gothic Church of San Fietro, striped black and white, in a lonely spot close to the sea, from which there is a magnificent view. At San Lorenzo, in the village above, are two interesting early paintings, and a doorway with spiral columns. The marble of the rock upon which Porto Venere stands — black, with gold-coloured veins — is exceedingly beautiful. The Genoese acquired Porto Venere in the year 1113, and encircled it with walls and towers, of which some portions re- main. Four of the most illustrious families of Genoa were sent to rule the colony. The dialect of the inhabitants is still pui-e Genoese, differing from that of the neighbouring villages. Opposite Porto Venere is the island of Palmaria, a mile across, and S. of it the two smaller ones of Tino and Tinetto. In Palmaria are quaries of the marble called Porter, which has brilliant yellow veins on a deep black ground, like that of Porto Venere. Louis XIV. caused a great deal of it to be worked for the decora- tion of Versailles. The island com- mands fine views of the Gulf of Spezia. There is a large circular fortress on it, now a criminal prison. Upon Tino is a lighthouse. The new drive of Xa Foce, a round of 2 hrs. (10 fr.), gives the best general view of the Bay, Arsenal, Carrara Mountains, and distant Apennines. On the E. side of the gulf is Lerici, anciently belonging to the Pisans, who fortified it against their rivals both of Lucca and of Genoa. A good road of 10 m. leads to it, by Pitelli. (Steamer from Spezia.) The Castle is picturesquely situated on an ad- vancing point, which, sheltering the little cove behind it, forms the harbour. It was at Lerici that Andrea Doria transferred his services from Francis I. to Charles V., and thus gave that preponderance to the influence of the house of Austria in Italy which afiected the political situation of the country for so long a time. Lerici is a busy little town, many of its inhabitants being engaged in the building of mer- chant vessels. Near Lerici are ex- tensive lead works belonging to an English company, the ores being brought from Sardinia. The Villa Casa Magni (now Maca- rani), between Lerici and (1 m.) S. Terenzo, was the residence of Shelley the poet in 1822. Here he saw vai'ious spectres and apparitions. His yacht was upset in a squall on July 1st, between this place and Leghorn, and his body cast ashore near Viareggio. 508 Jioute 123. — Vezzano — Sarzana. A good carriage-road connects Lerici Avith that between Spezia and Sarzana, falling into it near the bridge over the Magra (see below). The extreme S.E. point of this beau- tiful gulf is Punta Bianca, or White Cape, alluding to its marble. A little within it is the Punta del Corvo or Cape Crow, although one side of it is white, being formed of the same lime- stone. The entrance to the gulf is guarded by forts, one upon the Punta di Santa Teresa, N.W. of Lei-ici, and three on the W. side — the batteries of Palmaria, Pessino, and Santa Maria, near the Lazzaretto. The Ligurian commentators unani- mously maintain that the well-known description in Virgil of the gulf in which -^neas took refuge after the storm was suggested by the Gulf of Spezia. But that description is closely imitated from the Odyssey, and ex- cepting the island, which Virgil has added, the Gulf of Spezia resembles Homer's harbour quite as much as Virgil's. The two passages are ^n. i. 159-169, and Odyssey, N. 96-112. Carriage with two horses to Sestri, 50 fr. ; to Genoa, 120 fr. — a diive i highly recommended. j Rly. N. to Pontremoli for Parma t (Rte. 113). On leaving Spezia the Rly. follows a rising ground at the head of the , bay, ascending gradually the ridge I of hills that separates it from the valley of the Magra, and descending to the river near the village of 61 m. Vezzano Junct. Here the Pontremoli branch turns off 1. Four tunnels are passed before reaching I 63 m. Areola. The town, which is j singularly picturesque, stands perched on a hill, with a high tower and fine v.-alls ; Trehhiano, equally well situated, , is a little lower down. After emerging \ from another tunnel the Rly. crosses ' the Magra on the same bridge as the I carriage -road, a handsome construction I of 12 arches, about 3 m. from the sea. A good carriage-road from the bridge strikes off rt. to (4 m.) Lerici. The M'tfjra (Macra of the Romans) ' divided the territory of Liguria from the Lunigiana, and the ancient Liguria from Etruria, as it did in more modern times the Genoese from the Tuscan possessions. Above the W. bank of the Magra, and below Monte Marcello, are the ruins of the monastery of Santa Croce, where Dante sought a refuge, chie- dendo pace, as he himself expressed, on his being expelled from Florence ; it was also visited by Charles V. and Francis I. 66 m. SARZANA (10,500), now capital of the province of Levante, was the Roman Sergiana, also called Luna Nova, to distinguish it from Luna Vecchia, which it supplanted. Its ancient government, which subsisted till the French invasion, was rather remarkable, being vested in an as- sembly called the '-'Parlamento," not, like the Parlamento of Florence, a primary or democratic meeting, but a mixed aristocratic representative body, composed of nobles, artificers, and peasants, from the district included within the jurisdiction of the muni- cipality. The *Duomo, built of white marble (1355-1474), is an intei-esting specimen of early Italian-Gothic. In the W. fi'ont is a good and unaltered wheel- window. The front is remarkable for its simplicity. The interior, although much modernised, still preserves its three fine round arches, separating the nave and aisles, supported by elegant octagonal piers ; the transepts, which are short, contain two rich and florid Gothic altars. There is a Mas- sacre of the Innocents in the chapel at the end of the rt. aisle, by FiaseUa, surnamed Sarzana, born here in 1589. On the front are three statues, one of Pope Nicholas V. (1447-1455), Thomas of Sarzana, who was a native of this town. Though born of humble parents, he was entirely free from the weak- ness of nepotism. He w^is the muni- ficent protector of the Greeks when driven into Italy after the fall of Con- stantinople ; an event which, as it is said, he took so rnuch to heart, that i^ Boute 123.— Avenza — P^srt» 509 hastened his end. He was also the founder of the greatest literary reposi- tory of Italy — the Vatican Library. It was also fi'om Sarzana that the imperial family of France dei-ived its origin, as shown by the researches of Signer Passerini. The name of Buona- parte, a kind of sobriquet in its ox'igin (as Malaparte was in the Gherardesca family), became the patronymic of a junior branch of the Cadolingi, Lords of Fucecchio, which had settled in the province of Lunigiana, and neigh- bourhood of Sarzana, where, as proved by contemporary documents, a certain notary called Buonaparte lived in 1264. It was the chief of this branch who emigi-ated to Corsica (Ajaccio), and from whom descended the family of Napoleon. The genealogy of the Counts of Fucecchio can be traced as far back as the middle of the 10th cent., so that the Imperial family may boast of an origin almost as remote as that of their Bourbon predecessors on the throne of France. The Buona- parte family of S. Miniato was of Sienese origin, and was su generally before Sigilol' Passerini's researches, and by the first Napoleon himself, to be that from which the Imperial house derived its origin. The Castle and the ancient fortifi- cations of the city form an extensive mass of buildings. The picturesque fort of Sarzanello, above Sarzana, was built by Castruccio Castracani degli Antelminelli, the celebrated Lord of Lucca, for the purpose of defending the territory against the Malaspina princes, from whom it was won. It is a finely preserved specimen of ancient military architecture, with a commanding keej». Beyond Sarzana the Rly. runs through a fertile plain bounded by the Apennines, of which the views from the train are magnificent. From 73 m. Avenza Junct. a branch line runs N. to Carrara. This place, and the remainder of the Rly. to 103 m. Pisa, are described in the Handbook for Central Italy (Rte. 2). ( 511 ) INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 1897. R. = Room. A. = Attendance, L. = CiUidle. B. = Breakfast. D. = I "inner. The first number after the name indicates the page on which the place is described. ABANO. 353. Stabiliinento Orologio ; St. Todeschini. Pens. 10 fr., exclusive of early breakfast. Baths, 1 to 3 fr. Abbiategkasso, 63. ABETONE, 470. if. Orsatti, 8 to 12 fr.; less in June and Sept. Pens. Serrabassa, 8 to 10 fr. ; R. Ferrari, small and moderate (see Bosculavgo). ABRtES, 47. ACQUA BujA, 471. ACQUANEGRA, 192. ACaiJI, 56, 53. Well-appointed Omnibus from the Stat, to the Baths. Two large Hotels, at the *Stabiliinenti del Bagrd, one in the town, open all the ■ year, the other beyond the bridge over the Bormida, a mile from the Stat., open only from June 1st to Sept. 30th. The latter has 250 rooms, 100 Bath-room?, and a large Swimming Bath, all admirably arranged, with Cafe, Restaurant, and well supplied Reading - room. Pension, 10 fr., including wine. Food a'd attendance first-rate. Carriages very reasonable. Medical men : at the Antiche Terme, be- yond the Bormida, Prof. A. Maggiora, Dr. D. de Ales- sandri. At the Nuove Terme in the town, Dr. Grillo. Fixed tariff fjr Baths. N. Italy — vi. 97. Adda River, 89, 96, 100, 104, 117, 211. Adige River, 104, 220, 223, 349, 355. Ad 3redias, 456. Ad Xuvas, 421. ADRIA, 345, 347. All). Stella d' Italia. Agno, 90. Agno River, 78. Agogna River, 30, 31, 59. Agordo, 337. Aiguille de Glacier, 43. AlMAVILLE, 39. AlRASCA, 47. AIROLO, 78. Buffet. *H. de la Poste ; D. with- out wine, 4 fr. ; R. 2 fr. ; L. and A. 75 c. *If. Lombardi ; II. Airvlo; II. des Alpes. Aix LES Bains, 2. ALA, 221. Buffet. Alb. della Posta. Alagna, 27, 111. ALASSIO, 480, 476. Inns : Grand H. Alassio, on the shore. Pension, 8 to 10 fr. ; H. de la Mediter- ranee; H. Suisse, near the Stat., clean and good. Pen- sion Aitglaise, near the Grand Hotel. II.de Londres, cheap. English Church, with ex- cfllent Library attached. Chaplain in winter, licensed by the Bp. of Gibraltar. Physician: Dr. E. G. Boon. ALBA, 55. Alb. Cannone d'Oro, Alearo, 501. Albate Camerlata, 89. ALBENGA, 481, 46, 477. Alb.J!eaIe; Alb. Vittoria; both poor. Albissola, 484. Albium Intermedium, 478. Aleramo, Cavern of, 46. ALESSANDRIA, 54, 56, 62, 63. Alb. Eurnpa (Gugliel- mina) ; Alb. d' Italia e I'nioerso, good food and wine. *Butlet at the Stat. , Alfieri, Birthplace of, 53. Alfoxsine, 401. Allee Blanche, 41. Alleghe, 337. ALrE DELLA LUNA, 427. Alpe di I'ila, 99. Alpignano, 7. Alpone, 339. Alpone River, 246. Alseno, 438. Altare, 58. ALTDORF, 77. H. Adler (Post) ; H. Clef d'Or. Altinum, 330, 331. Alzano, 166, 208. Alzati, 87. Alzo, 75. Amberieu, 2t Ambin, 4. Ameno, 110. AMSTEG, 77. //. Stern (Post) ; H. Ilirsch. R. L. 2 Ir. ANDERMATT, 77. Hotels : *BeUevue, at tho E. entrance to the village, large and well-kept, with garden and lawn tennis ground, open all the year. Liberal supply of Eng. Papers. Kng. Ch. Service, June 1 to Sept. 30. Pens, from 7 fr. ; R. 4 fr. Ad- jacent is the //. Tuuriste, belonging to the same land- l(Td, cheap and good, for pedestrians. Grand H.. at the W. end of the village, electric light. H. St. Gott- hard, good and cheap. Photographs, Carved Woo) Disseiitis airl Coire ; tu the Rhone Glacier and Bri'g. Andks, 198. Andoka, 480. ANDORNO, 27. Grand Hotel d'Andorno, in a large garden, with Baths. IVnsion, 8 to 10 fr., all included; ronifortal>le and wfU managed. Prices should be arranged before- hand. Good fable. Eng. Chaplain, 1 .June to 30 Sept. Andreas Ilofer, 467. AxFO, 244. Angera, 63, 113. Angetuna, 113. j4nnunziata. Order of the, 7. Ansehn, Birthplace of, 38. Aktey. 37. Anza RrvER, 111. Anzaxo, 87. AOSTA. 37. //. du Mont Blanc ; H. de la f'mironne ; Restaurant Lanier, with a few bed- rooms. Apcsa River, 367. Apkica, 99, 212. Aquee Statidce, 56. AQUILEIA, 344. Alb. Aqidla Xera. Arakco, 30, 67. Arhoroso River, 59. ARCO. 218, 220. *//. KurJiaus, pens. 4 fl ; *//. Oliio, pens. 3 fl. ; H. Arco. Carriage to Riva, 1 fl. ; to Trent Q2 hours), 15 fl. Arcola, 508. AROt>];E, 117. Arda Torrent, 437, 438. Arl>enno, 98. Ardo River, 336. Arena Pu. 66. ARENZANO. 484. Alb. di Jioma, below the Stat., on the shore; small but ck-an. ARGEGNO. 79. 92. 106. Alb. Tela; Alb. Uarchelta Ariano.347. 349. Jriiniuium, 422. Ariosto. Birthplace of 450. Aridsto, House of, 365. Arua, 480. ARMENO (Orta), 109, 110. Alb. deW i'uione, Arnaiid, Henri, 4. Arno River, 473. Arola, 110. ARONA, 81, 60. 75. Alb. Keale d'ltatia (I'osta;; Alb. S. OottarcM, good rooms, attentive land- lord, near the SUt. Caje at the Stat. Arpissox, 39. Arqua del Monte, 354. Arqua, 355. Arquata, 54. Arrosia River, 46 • Arsiero, 322, 333. ARTERf.VA, Ct)L !>', 42. ARTH-GOLDATJ, 76. Buffet. Arto, 111. Arvier, 36. Arzignano, 339. ASCONA, 115. AsiAGO. 333. AsuLA, 207. A solo, 336. 338. Assa River, 333. ASSENZA, 217. Asso, 89. Asteffo Torrent, 338. ASTI. 53. 60. Alb. Leone d'Oro. Astico River, 332. ASTIGIANO, 52. Aftendolo Sfnrza, 428, 450. Auguita Bagitnnorinn, 45. Augusta Prsetm-ia. 37. Auletta Torrent, 475. A ELLA, 475. Ansa River, 42. AVENZA, 509. AvERSEK Thal, 95. AVIGLIANA. 7. Alb. dtlla ^igna ; Corona Grogfa ; Scudo di Francia. Avio, 221. B. f'acchigh'one Rn ek, 248. Badagnano, 436. Badia Tadella, 427. Bagnacavallo, 428. Eagnavza Thrrent, 475. BagxasCO, 46. BAGNI DEL MASINO. 98. Siabilimento, 15 June — 15 Sept., good. Bag NOLI (Padca), 269. Bagnolo, 467. Bagnone Torrent, 475. Bagolino, 212, 244. BALDICniERI, 52. Ballabio, 97. Balmuccia, 111. Balzola, 62. Bannio, 111. Bai:acca, 505. Baradello, 87. BARANCA PASS. 111. Good ^Fountain inn (15 July— 15 Sept.). BARA.S.SO, 82. Barberino, 471. Barcelonnette, 50. Bardol'NO, 217. Bardonezza River, 66. BARDONNECCHIA, 4. Alb. Somineilhr, clean. Barenboden, 103. Barge, 47. Barghe, 244. Baricella, 401. Barigazzo, 471. Barlapsina, 79. Barni, 89. Barzano. 118. Basaluzzo, 54, 62. BASSANO, 337. 333, 351. Albergo S. Antonio; Alb. del Mondo. R. 1^ fr. BATHS OF BORMIO. 101. *Hotel, with large Gardi n and Baths. Pens. 10 Ir. Kng. Ch. Service, July to .Sept. Baths of Catullus. 214. Baths of Yaldieri, 49. BATTAGLIA. 354. Alb. f.eime Bianco, poor; Alb. alia Spacca. Rattles on the Trdbia, 66. BAVENO. 114. 74. 109. * Grand H. Pclleriie ; *(irand H Paveno :*H Beau- rivage; all excfUent. Pen.s. lOlr. H. /'tn si on >'wi>.'e, by the landing-plate, cheaper. l>il. twice dii'y to Gravel- lona. Eng. Chapel at the Villa Clara. /?a]/a?v/. Death of, 67. nayard, Generosity of, 167. Beaulard, 4. INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 513 Becca. di Nona, 86. Becca di Vlou, 31. Beukiacum, 197. BEE, 115. Alb. Bet. Beikette, 52. Iklbo River, 56. Bet.bo, Tunnel (^f, 46. Belgiojoso, 192. BELGIRATE, 113. . * Grand H. Belgirate, Pens. 8 fr, BELLAGIO. 107, 89. *//. Grande Bretagne; *Grand H. Bellagio, on the lake. Pension Villa Ser- belluni, a df'pendance of the Grande Bretagne, on the hill above, wiih a fine garden and park. *i/. Gennazzini, on the lake, lower charges. IT. Florence, still cheaper. Alb. del Vapore, unpretend- ing. English Church, built lnl.838. BELLAIJO, 107, 98, Alb. di Roma. Bellakia, 421. Bella Vista, 79. Bellecombe, Col, 42. Belleisle, Comte de, 4. BELLINZONA, 78, 90, 108, 116. H. de la Poste; H. de la Villeet Twioh, with Pen- sion. H.Angelo. Buffet. BELLXJNO. 336. Alb. deile Alpi, well spoken of. Carriages at fixed tariff for iMngarone and Cortina. A beautiful drive can be taken to Vit- torio by.Bosco di Consiglio. Belvedere (Apkica), 99. 211. Bese, 45. Bekceto, 449, 475. BEEGAMO, 161. 99, 208. Alb. d' Italia, R. 2 fr. Cap- pello d' Ore, nearest the Stat., good food. Trattoria Giar- dinetto, in the upper Town. Railway : a Funicular railway runs to the upper Town. Bergeggi, 482. Bernardo, Col di, 46. Berneb Klause, 221. Bertinoro, 463, 473. Beseko, 221. Bextola, 210, 437. Bevera River, 51. Bkvilacqua, 207. Bezzkcca, 245. BlANDKATE, 31, BIASCA. 78. //. Luanagno; H. Unione. Buffet. Bibbiena, 465. BicoccA, 60. BIELLA, 26, Alb. Ttsta Grigia; An- pelo. Funicular Rly. to the Upper Town, 10 c. Club {Circolo Sociale) at the Theatre. BIELLA-PIAZZO, 26. Hydropathic Kstablish- ment, large and well kept, 8 to 1 fr. a day. Biexo, 351. BiFOKCA, 472. BIGNASCO, 116. *JL du Glacier, pens, from 5 fr. BiGORio, 92. BiNASCO, 181. BioxASSAY, Glacier de, 42. Bisagno River, 502. BiSTAGNO, 57. BiUMO, 83. Blevio, 105. BoARio, 213. lioBBio, Monastery of, 437. bocchetta, 54. Bocchetta di Carcoforo,112. Boccioleto, 111. Boffaloka, 32, 33. BOGLIACO, 217. BOLLADOUE, 100. 11. Fosta ; H. des Alpes. BOLLATE, 33, 87. BDLLENA. 50. H. Lavit, p--ns. 7 fr. BOLOGNA, 366, 438, 457, 468, 470, 474. Hotels: *//. Brim (a, D, E. 4), clean, well-managed, and comfortable. Table- d'hote, 5 fr. Luncheon, 3i fr. Excellent wines. Italia (b. E. 5), no table-d'hote, but good restaurant. Eu- 7-opa(d. 1). 5). Pelle.gr ino; Anuila Neva. Restaurants : B-ellxt Ve- nezia e Quattro Pellegrini, 25 Via Rizzoli; *Stellone, 4, in the same street. Good dLshes axe—Tagliahelli, Tor- ttllini, and Ravioli. Ga.Us,—DeUc Scienxe, Via Farini ; Commcrcio, opposite H. Brun ; C. dei Seroi. Cabs: Fares, 75 c. for the course within the city walls, and 1 fr. 50 c. an hour ; 1 tV. from the rly. stat., with 50 c. for a trunk and 25 c. for a >m:\ll bag. Outside the town, 2 fr. an hour; alter 10 P.K., ^ fr, extra for each hour. Excellent carriages can be hired at the Hjtel Bruii by the hour, with 1 horse, 2 fr. ; with 2 horses, 3 fr. ; to San Michele in Bosco or the Cemetery, 2 fr. 50 c. \ horse ; 4 fr. 2 horses i to S. Luca, including the Campo Santo, 2 persons, 15 fr. ; 4 persons. 20 fr. Baths : ^. Litcia, Via Cas- tiglione, and alia Caritci, Via San Felice. Bankers : Gavaruzzi, cor- ner of the Piazza Nettuno. Physician : I>r. Busi, 2 Via Gombruti (K. 4). The ordinary fee, either for phy- sicians or surgeons, is 5 to 10 fr. Druggist: Legnani, op-- posite H. Brun ; Zarri, op- posite the Telegraph Office. Booksellers ; ZanichelU, Portico del Pavaglione ; Treves, I'iazza Galvani ; Idelson, Via Indipendenza. Post and Telegraph OMces in the Palazzo Conmnale. Eng. Ch. Service ev^'ry Sunday in April, May, Oct., and Nov., by an S. P. G. Chaplain, at the Hotel Brun. English-speaking Confessor, Abbate FanttUi, S. Catarina, Via Maggiure. Military Band on Thurs- day and Sunday altern ons. Place constantly ch^mged— enquire at the Hotels. The Indian Exprfss in correspondence with the P. and 0. steamer at Brindisi stops at Bologna every Sun- diy at 1.40 "a.m., reacliing Brindisi 15 hours after (see Introduction). Wine Merchant : J. F. Frank (II. Brun) has large vineyards on the slopes south of Bologna, and ex- ports good and pure wine 2 L 2 5U INDEX AND DIRECTORY. to England at a moderate cliarge. The best varieties are the following, the cheap- est Ix-iiig placed first : — Bo- logna Scelto, Singiovese, Pinot, Cabernet, like a full- flavoured Claret (all reil) ; Paradiso, Pinot (Burgundy grape), Saiivignon, like Sau- terne (all white). Tramway from the Piazza Nettuiio and P. Vittorio Emanuele to all the city gdt*!'.-, and along the boule- vard 8, of the town. Steam Tramway from the Piazza IVIalpighi (E. 4) by the Porta Sarag«iS?a every half hour to Meloncello, at the foot of the arcades, whence S. Luca may be reached in 40 niin., or the C'ainpo Santo in 10 min. The Tramway gi e^ on to Casalecchio, Bazzano, and Vignola. Agents for Itiggage, par- cels, etc. : G. GoUinelU and Co.. Via Ugo Bassi. Bolzano (Belluno), 336. BoLZAXO (Orta), 75. BONKEXO, 401. BONDIONE, 99. .4?i!>. alia Cascata. BONDOKE, 244. Bunifacio of Asti, 5. Borb'ire RivtK, 53. BouCA, 112. BORDIGHERA. 479, 476. Hotels: *//. Angst, well situated above the town. *H. Belvedere, Eng. land- lady, excellent situation. H. fieJlavi la, well situated above the town, with de- pendance. Beil-vedtre close bj'. H. Lozeron, near the Stat., good cuisine. H. Angltterre, close to the Stat. Feision \Vindsor, close to the old town. IT. West- minster. *H. de Londres, raasonable. II. des Hes Brittaniques. Furnished Apartments easily obtnined. Physicians : Dr. Good- chtld; Dr. II. Dan vers ; Dr. G. Hamilton: Dr. I,. K. Htrschel (M.D , Vienna); Dr. Agnetti, speaks English. Dentist : Dr. J. G. Buss, every Thurs. English Church and Par- gonage : Chaplain, Eev. A. T. Barmtt. Bankers and House Agents : Hologn in i ; Ed wa rd £'. JUrry. Casi Balestr.i. English Vice-Consul : H. de L'urtjh Daly. Chemist : larmacia Ba- lestra. BoKGiti:, Defile of, 51. BORGHETTO (IMixcio), 466. BOR5IIETTO S. Spirito, 481. BORGHETTO (Riviera). 505. Carle Uistorantt, with a few rooms. BORGIO VEREZZI. 482. Gr. II. Beaurivage. B0R60 (Val Scgaka), 350. //. Val Sugana ; Alb. delta Croce. BORGOFORTE, 467. BORGOFRAXCO, 35. BoRGO Lavezzaro, 59. BORGOMANERO, 75. Alb. del Homo Secco. BORGORATTO, 56. BoRGO Sax Dalmazzo, 49. BORGO SAN DONNINO, 438. Alb. Croce Bianca ; Alb. dell' Angela, BoRGo S. LoREXzo, 472. BoRGO S. Marino, 426. BoRGO Sesia, 67, 75. BfJRGO TiCINO, 60. BoRGo Val Sugana, 350. BoRGO Vice, 105. L'orlezza River, 213. Borinida River, 46, 54, 56, 57, 58. BORMIO. 100. II. Fosta ; Alb. della Torre. See haths of Bonnio. BoRROMEAX Islands, 113. Bui;sEA, cavern of, 49. BORZONASCA, 210, 504. Catle Ristorante di Stefano Farrini, with a few clean Rooms. Inns all very bad. Bosc< di Vado, 482. Capo Verde, 479. Cappella di Caeavaggk^ 504. Caprile, 337. Capeixo, 217, 222, 243. Carabbia, 92, Caeadako, 505. CAHATE, 80, 106. Alb. Lari/i. Caravaggio, 209. Carazzoxe, 48. Caecare, 58. CABCOFORO, Hi, 112. Alb. JConie Mora. Cardniello (defile), 94, Caeei, 51. Carignano, 44. Carmagxola, 44, 47. Carmignaxo, 333. Caeoxxo, 87. CARas, Val di, 50, Carpekdolo, 179. CAE.PI, 467. Allj. OaW Ancora, In a Garden, near the Stat., the be^t. Alb. Tamhuro, at the S. end of the Piazza. CABHAHA, 475, 509. Alb. Nazionale (Porta), Carraea di S. Stefano, 354, Caerc, 45. CarruUomagus, 66. Caeugo Gicssano, 88. Carvagxana, 107. Carza Rivee, 471, 472. Casaccia 99. Casaglia, 472. CASALE, 60, 62. Alb. Tre Re Kvavi, good food. Omn. at the Stat. Alb. Lewie d'Oro, witli Bdths. 516 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Casale, Tunnel of, 468. Oasaleccmio, 468. Casalkuttano, 20. Casaoiaggioke, 197. CASALPrSTF.RLENGO, 192, 432. Casa Magni, 507. Casarsa, 343, 345. Casbeno, 82. Casolaki del Tkcc, 5. Cassano, 166. Cassaratb (Val), 92. Cassine, 56. Cassino Scaxasio, 181, Castagne, 350. Castagxola, 92. Castagxole, 53, 56. Castasegxa, 96. CASTEfiGIO. 65. Castel Alfiert, 53. Oastel Arquato, 438. Castel Barco, 221. Castel Bolognese, 428, 458. Castel Ceriolo, 63. Casteletto, 217. CASTELFRANCO (Vfseto), 334, 341. Mb. deUa Fpnda. I'astelfraxco (Emilia), 456. Castelguelio, 439. Castelgomberto, 339, Castellamonte, 34. Castellare, 480. Casteli.o d' AfiLiE, 34, Castello Costa di Mezzato, 209. Castello (LrcAyo), 92. Castellucchio, 197. Castelnuovo (Trent), 351. CASTELNrOVO (VEI:o^•A), 180. Castel Panimno, 430. Castel Poggio, 475, Castel S. Giovanni, 66. Cartel S. Pietrc, 457. Castenaso, 428. Castiglione (Brescia), 178. Castiglione (Lugano), 92. Cast:guone. Col di, 51. Castiglione di Olona, 83» Castic^-e, 78. Castra Cai:o, 473. Castrum Matitum, 473. Catari7ia Cornaro at Asolo, 339. Cattaeggio, 99. Cattajo, Castle, 354. CatuUtts^ Biitbplace o.f, 226. Cava Carbon ara, 191. Cavallermaggiore, 47, 48, 55. Cavanella de7,l' Aimgf,, 348. Cavanella del I'o, 348, 349. Ca> a Tigozzi, 192. Cavazuchfjuna, 328. Cavfj'.zo, 468. Cavour Canal, 27. Cavkiana, 179. CEDEGOIO, 212. Alb. dtl /.eojie, tolerable. Celle, 484. Ceneda, 342. Cengio. 46. Cengio Altcv, 332. Ceno RivERj 474. Centa River, 480. Centallo, 49. Cento, 365. Centonaro, 111. Ceraino, 222. Ceuea, 207, 345. CERES, 34. Small Inn. Carriage to Lunzo, 6 Ir. Ceeese, Col, 50. CERESOLE REALE, 34, 39. Grared II. y large and well- conducted. Pens. 12 to 15 fr., wine included. Ctreyone River, 254. Ceriana, 479. CERNOBBIO, 105. *Grand H. YiUa d'ESte, Pension 10 fr. ; B. Csr'tiob- biQ ; //. de la lieive Olga. CERTOSA DI PAYIA, 181, 161, Ifotel and Restaurant Miluno, good and clean, 2 min. from the Gatewa.y. Trattoria Rizzardiy at the Stat. A dm. to the Church and Monastery, 1 fr., in- cluding guide. CERTOSA DI PESrO, 49. Pension (.iune 1 to Sept. SO), 6 to 8 fr., iuchidiiig wine. Good food, abundant fruit. Resident Physician. Ceruso Rivsj-., 481. Cekvara, 503. Cekvia,421. Ceryo,476,480» Cei-vo River, 26. Cesano, 72. CESENA. 464. Alb. L&jiie d'Oro; Cajfe Forie. Cesexatico, 421. Ceseresa, 475. Ceva, 45, 480. Ceafh^ale Pass, 104. Chalet Argent, 3^, Chaw ISA VE, 37. Chambery, 2. Chamole, 38. CHA5IPORCHER, VaL DE, 36. ClIARVENSOD, 38. Chateau Quart, 37. Chatelard, 40. CHATrLLON-. 36. I/, de Londres. Ch£crcit, Col de, 41. Cheggino, 109. Cherasco, 45, 48. Cherio RiVEii, 209. Chiaravalle (Emilia), 438. Chiaravalle (MiLiN\ 423. 161,181. CHIASSO. 79, -1^6. S. Michele. Buffet. CHIAVARI. 504. Alb. yv(/roni, the best; Alb. Ftnic&. CHIAVENNA, 95. *//. Cmradi. Buffet. Through tickets to Bellagio or Cadenabhia, iiicluding Onin. between the Stat, and Quay at Colico. Chiavenva River, 438. Chieri, 43,52. Chiero River, 436. CHIESAXVat. Malenco), 99, Alb. Olico^ Chi^e KivEK, 178, 244. CHIOGGIA. 345, 347. 349. A.lb. dlt'Hia : Alb. dtlta Luna. Steataer daily to Cavarzere in Zi hrs., fare a fr. ; tmice daily to Venice. Chio:montk, 4. Chiusa, 221. CHIVASSO, 25, 35.. Buffet. Alb. del Jfora. ClANO, 451. I CiGlJANO, 26. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 517 CiMA Di Balnisio, 94. CiMA Bo, 27. CiMA UODICt, 350. ClSfA DELLA FrATTA, 340. C!MA DELLA GUAEDIA, 245. CiMA DT FOSTA, 332. CiMA DELLE TuE CUOCI, 340. CiMA SPESSA, 244. Cinque Touue, 506. Croi7A, 92. CiKii;, 34. C:sA Pass, 475, CrsMONE, 351. Cismone River, 350. CITTADELLA, 333, 337. Alb. di Roma. CiTTIGLIO, 82. Civate, 89. CIVENNA, 89. Small Inn. Civiasco, 110. CIVIDALE, 346. Alh. al Priuli. Cividate, 212. Claro, 78, Classe, 421. Classis, 420. Clastidium, 65. Claterna, 457. Clusson-e, 99, 211, 213. COCCAGLTO, 209. Codera Torrent, 96. CODOGNO, 192, 432. Alb. della Stazione. COLROIPO, 343. Alb. Imperatore. CoGLio Falls, 116. COGNE, 39. H. Grivola. COGOLETO, 484. COIRE, 93. H. Lulcmanier, near the Stat. ; //. Steinhnck, S. of the town. Dil. to Chiavenna twice a day in snnfimer in 12 hrs, 27 fr. Extra post with two horses, 152 ir. Cola, 217. Col d'Arbole, 39. Coldel'Assiette, 4. Col di Baranca, 111. Col di Campello, 75. Col de Champorcher, 36. Col DELLA COLMA, 110. Col de la Crotx, 34. Col de la Croix de Fer, 4, Col DELLA DORCIIETTA, 75, 111. CoL DI EgUA, 111. Col du Geant, 42, Col de Jou, 36. Col della Lora, 221. Col de Miage, 42. Col Rivolto, 221. Col de Seu, 4. Col de la VallSe Etroite, 4. Col du Vallonat, 4. Col de Vessoney, 37. COLICO, 96, 98, 108. n. Angtlo; H. liisu Colla, La, 479. Collecchio, 474. collegno, 7. Colma, 217. COLOGXA, 243. CoLONNA DEI FrAXCESI, 421. COLONNO, 106. COLONTOLA, 336. COLORNO, 197. Columbus, Birthplace of, 484. CoMABBio, Lake of, 80. COMACCHIO, 348. COMANO, 93. COMASCO, 75. CoMBOE Alp, 38. CONSELTCE, 429. Corbola, 347. CORDELE, 37. CORDEVOLE, 337. CORENNO, 107. Corjianno, 88. CoRMOxs, 344. CORXEDO, 340. Cornelius Mpos, Birthplace of, 226. CoRNi DI Canzo, 87, 89, I CORNIGLIANO, 485. Gravd If. Villa Eachel. Eng. Ch. Service. CORXO DI DURIN, 108. CORXO DI S. COLOMBAXO, 101. CORNO DEI Tre Signori, 100. CoiwuDA, 335. CORXUSCO, 117. Corona River, 66. Correggio, 467. CoRSico, 63. Cortaxze, 53. Corte Maggiore, 438. corteoloxa, 192. corticella, 366. COSSILLA (BiELLA). 27. Stabilimento. Pens, in June and Sept., 10 fr. ; July and Aug., 11 fr. COTAGNOLE, 246. COTIGXOLA, 428. CoTTiAN Alps, 2. COMO, 84, 79, 105. Hotels: *H. Volta, pens. 10 fr. ; //. Italia ; H. Suisse, cheaper. Restaurant Fra^- co)'?', good. Buffet. AtCer- nobbio, 3 m. distant, on the Lake (10 min. by steamer), is the *ff. Villa d'Esie. Booksellers : Meyer and Zeller, Piazza Cavour. Luggage and Parcel Agents : Societa Lariana, corner of the Piazza, on tiie quay. A Funicular Rly. runs between Como and Bruuate. Trains every half-hour from 6.30 A.M. to 11 P.M. Single tickets, 1.50 1., return, 2 1. Compigno River, 472. Compitum, 465. Comum Novum, 84. COND AMINE, 478. CONEGLIANO, 342. Alb. deW Earopa. COXFIENZA, 32. CoNi, 49. COTJUMAYEUE,, 40. Hotels: H. Angelo ; *IT. Boyal ; H. Union; H. Mont- hlanc. Guide. Berthod Alexis (le Frangais). CovELO, Dofile, 351. Comglia Torrent, 475. Cozzo, 62. Cramont, 40. Crea, 60. CREMA, 210. Alb. Pozzo. Cremexaga, 90. Cremia, 108. CREMONA, 192, 210. Hotels : Alh. del Cappello, best ; Alb. d'l'alia; b..th in the main street. Alb. di Roma, in the Piazza. Cab : 50 c. ; for an hour, 1 fr. ; each subsequent i hr., 50 c. Stationer : (Maps and I Plans), I'ietro Fezzi,i Corso I Campi. 518 I^'DEX AND DIRECTORY. CuKsrAxo, 338. C'RESPINO, 472. Ckeva, 90. Ceevola, 74. Croce DoMyNr, 212. Ckocetta, 5. Crostolo RivEK, 450, 467. CKUalNALLO, 74. CULOZ. 2. Buffet, //. FoUiet, near the Stat., clean and comfort able. CTJNEO, 49, 52. //. de la Source; Alb. Barra di Ferro. CUORGNi:, 34. Omnibus from the Stat, four times daily to PoiUe (40 c.) twice to Locana (1 fr. 40 c). Carriage-road for 4 hrs. towards Ceresoh', 2 hrs. additional by mule- path to hotel. CfKCIUSA, 94. CUKEGLIA, 93. Cur one RivEK, 65. CUKTATON-E, 198. Clsiozza, 180, 222, 466. CUTIGLIANO, 470. //. Orlando,i&\r', Pension JenninrjS, 6 fr. ; P. Bellini, 7 fr. ; both good and well situated. CCZZAGO, 74. D. Dalbakd, 35. Dante's Tonih, 412. Dard Hn ku, 39. Dauio, 212. lUuzo, 244. Dazio Gkande, 78. Dego, 67. Demonte, 50. Deuvio, 98, 107. ' DESENZANO, 178, 214. //. Mayer. Carriases for the Hotel Gardone Riviera. Omn. to the pier, 50 c. ; luggage, 25 c. Picseuto, 484. Desiderius (King of the Lom- bards), 6, 33. Desio, 80. Devil's Bridge, 77. 1)ezzo, 212. Diaxo Mai:ixa, 476, 480. Dicomano, 473. Dign, Dyke of, 347. DOGLIANI, 45. Doire Rivek, 35. Dolce Acqua, 479. DOLIMA, 41. DoLO, 269. DOMASO, 108. Dome, 43. Domegliaka, 222, 243. DOMODOSSOLA, 74. //. de ia Ydle et Boste, R. L. .A., 5 fr.; D. 5 fr. //. d'Espafjne. DONGO, 108. Alb. Bongo. Doxxaz, 35. Dora Baltea, 26, 35. Dora Riparia, 4. Dora Susina, 4. Dokchetta, Col, 75. Dosso DI Lavedo, 106. DossoBUOKO, 345, 466. Dovadola, 473. Drano, 92. Deappo, 51. Deoxeuo, 49. Durance River, 50. E. EDOLO, 212. 99. Alb. dd Gallo ; Alb. Due Mori; Alb. Leone. Eggen Simtze, 102. EiNSHor.N, 93. Eissee .Jocii, 104. Eleva, 41. Ellero River, 48. Flsa River, 472. Embevx, 50. Entella River, 505. Entraqve, 60. ExTRi:vi::s, Castle of, 37. Entkeves Val d', 40, 41. Enza Torrent, 449. 467. ERBA, 88. 79, 87, 107. Small Inn. ERSTFELD, 77. Hotel at the Stat. Ezra, 213. Escarena River, 51. ESINO, 98. Alb. Monte Codeno. Espousal of the Adriatic, 328. ESTE. 207. Alb. ddla Yittoria. Ap- ply for information about the antiquities to the Signor Avvocato Mazzari. Este, House of, 356. Etsch River, 104. Exilles, 4. EYRS. 104. H. Post ; n. Krone. Ezzelino da Romano, Birth- place of, 338. F. Fabrosa, 49. FAENZA. 458, 472. Hotels : Alb. delta Co. rona, reasonable; Alb. Fi- renze. Restaurant : Italia. Cafe (>rfeo; C. Europa; both in the llazza. FAIDO. 78. H. Suisse; IT. Faido ; H. Angelo; H. Post {Prince of Wales). Falls of the Ponale, 218. Fara, 30, 67. Favextia, 458. FELIZZANO, 53. English - speaking Con- fessor, Rev. F. Feeney, tit. Patrick's College. Fell Railway, 2. Feltre, 336, 361. Fexestrelles, 4, 47. Ferdixaxdshohe, 102. Feriolo, 74. FERRARA, 356, 401. Buffet, poor. Alb. Stella d'Oro, opposite the Castle, the 1 est. Europa, opposite the Post Office, poor. Cab, 1 fr. ; the hour, li fr. Ferrea, 111. Ftrsina River, 350. Fidentia, 437, 438. INDEX ^XD DIRECTORY. 519 riESSO. 78. Alb. Monte Piottino. FiGiKO, 92. FiLAttlEKA, 475. FILIGARE, 470. Lodgings with Pension, 3 fr. 50 c. a day, without wine. Finale, 468. FINALMARINA, 482. Locanda Garibaldi. FiNESTKE, Col, 50. FlOKEXZUOLA, 437. FiusiE Latte, 97. FiUMicixo River, 465, 466. FivizzAxo 451, 475. FLORENCE, 470, 472, 473. Hotels: Oq the Lung" Arno: ff. de la Ville, If. d' Italic, H. de la Pair, H Grande Bretagne et de I'Arno, H. Victoria. Away from the river: H. Milano, E. del' Europe, H. du Xord, B. Minerva. Pension Bel- lini, P. Paoli, P. Piccioli, ' all much frequented. (For fuller details, see Handbook for Central Italy.) British Consul- General : Major W. Percy Chapman ; Vice - Consul, Gennaro Placet. Physicians : Dr. A. R, Coldstream; Dr. T. Hen- derson ; Dr. J. P. Steele ; Dr. S. A. Tidey. FLtJELEN, 76. E. Adler ; E. Ereuz. FOBELLO, 111, 71, 75. Alb. della Posta ; Alb. d' Italia; Alb. Leone d' Or o. FocE Di SPE^IA, 505, 507. FOGNANO, 472. FOLGAKIA,350. Fons Aponus, 353. Fontaine Bleue, 37. FONTALE, 100. Font ANA, 51. FONTANA d'Annibale, 65. FoNTANA Fkedda, 437. FONTEBUONA, 471. FOKESTO, 5. FORLi, 460, 44, 473, 474. Wretched Caffe at the Stat. Alb. Mas in i; R. from 2 fr. Omn. 60 c. Bookseller : Fr. Manuzzi, 18 Via Garibaldi. FOELIMPOPOLI, 463. FOHNACCIA, 102. FoKNo, 75. FORNO DI ZOLDO, 337. Alb. Cercena, FoRNOvo, 474. Fort Ampola, 245. Fort Bard, 36. Fort Fuentes, 96, 98. Forte Alberoni, 347. Forte San Niccolo, 328. Forte S. Pietro, 347. Forte Urbano, 456. Forum Alieni, 356. Furum Cornelii, 457. Forum Gallorum, 456. Forum Licinii, 88. Forum Livii, 460. Forum jyovanorum, 474. foscagno, 100. Fosdinovo, 475, FossANO, 48. Fourneau, 2. fourriers, 4. Francesca da Rimini, 425. Francesco Bussone, 44. FRANZENSFESTE. 219. Buffet, with rooms. FRANZENSHOHE, 103. Good roadside Inn. Freggio, 78. Frugarolo, 54, 62, fusignaxo, 428. Fusina, 269. Futa Pass, 471, G. Galeata, 473. Gallarate, 80, 82. Galleria del Balone, 470. Galliano, 79. Galliate, 71. Galltera, 365. Gallinara, 480, Gallio, 333. Gallivaggio, 95. Gamalero, 56. Gandria, 92. Gap, 50. Gakda, 217, GARDONE-RIVIERA, 216. *Hutel and Pension, sum- mer and winter resort, in a beautiful situation ; 7 to 10 fr. Resident Phygiciau. Gardone di Sopra, 216, Garessio, 46. Gargagnano, 243. GARGNANO, 217. Alb. del Ceri'o. Dil. to Tormini, in connection with the Tramway to Brescia. Garlate, lake of, 117. Garlenda, 481. Gasfon de Foix, 167, 403, 421, 474. Gattinara, 67, Gavardo, 244. Gavia Pass, 102, GAVINANA, 470. H. Ferruccio, comfortable, good food, Eng. landlady. Gavirate, 82. Gemona 343, 344, 345. GENOA, 485, 65, 191. Terminus, or Stazione Piazza Principe (Buffet), a handsome building, opening into the Piazza Acquaverde (A. 3). There is another Stat. (P. B.) in the Piazza Brignole (C. 6). Hotels : 1st class— *^. de Genes (C. 4, 5), best situ- ation, and good, lift, R. 4 Ir. ; Grand H. Isotta (B. C. 5). Via Roma, handsome house, excellent cuisine, lift; E. du Pare (C. 5), in a large gar- den, quiet ; *H. de la Ville (B. 4), opposite the Ponte Calvi, overlooking the har- bour, airy and pleasant, but noisy ; *E. de Londres, Via Balbi, close to the railway terminus, good and comfort- able, moderate prices, lift; H. Etrangers or Kebtcchino, lilt, i m. E., in the same street. 2nd class — E. de France (B. 4), a good commercial Inn, excellent table, reason- able charges ; //. Smith, close by, comfortable, R. li to 2. J- fr. Acquasola Gardens : Mili- tary Band three times a week, in summer from 7 to 2 P.M.; in winter from 2 to 4. Antiquities : Maggi, Via Carlo Felice ; Serajino Ze- rega, 96 Via Luccoli (near the steps, at the N. end). 520 IKDEX ANT) DIRECTOrT. Bankers : 3fessrs. Gra- net, Brmcn, tfc Co., 7 Via GaribaMi. Agents for Orient and Inuian lines, and Gen. Sieaui Nav. Co. Baths, in the Salita S. Ca- tarina. For baths in the sea, it is best to go down the coast to Cornigliaiio, Sestri or IVpli, on the \V.,orSturla on the E. Boatmen : Landing pas- sengers from steamers, 1 f r. each; luggage, 50 kilo., 50 c, 100 kilo., 1 fr. ; above 100 kilo., no tariff. B.>at in the p rt, or for an excnr- bion round the moleheads and lighthouse, with one rower and 2 or 4 persons, 1 fr. 50 c. the first hour, 1 fr. afterwards, two rowers, half as much again. Small Steamers ply in the harbour from May 1st to Oct. 15th, running to Sestri and other places. Booksellers : A. Donaih, 44 Via Luccoli ; half way between the Bourse and the Piazza Fontane Amorose. Englis^h and French Circu- lating Library. Beuf, Via Nuovissima, No. 2, good assortment of Guide B >oks and Maps; Sttneberg, ^Via. Roma. British Consul : Wil- liam Keene, Esq. ; Vice- Consul, E. G. Readier, Esq., 18, Spianata dell' Acquasola. American Consulate : 14 Via Assarotti. British Stores, and Gene- ral Supply .Agency, 8 Via Garibaldi — a most useful establishment. Grocery, stationery, hosiery, toilet articles, and general infor- niaiion office. Cabs : Within the city, the course, I fr. ; at night, li fr. By the hour, H fr.— additional half-hour, 75 c ; 20 c. for each article of luggage carried outside. Be- yond the limits of the city, according to printed tariff. Cafes : Italia, in a garden open only in summer, at Acquasola ; Milano, in the Galleria; and at the above Restaurants, Campo Santo : Cab there and back, waiting an hour, 2 fr. ; 2 horses, 7 fr. Omn. 25 c. The Casino, a Club of Ge- noese u'lblemen and gentle- men, is ill the Piazza Meri- diana n; 1 Vico del Filo, 7th floor, local views and Italian Riviera. Physicians : Dr. J. R. Spensley; Dr. C. Breiting, 3i Via Slameli, speaks English ; Dr. G. Ferrari, 18 Via Assarotti, Physician to the Protestant Hospital. Post Office : Via Roma and Galleria Mazzini ; let- tfr-boxes in the principal streets. Pottery: San Sebastiano (t .Moreno, Palazzo Verde, Via S. Martino d'Albaro. A visit to these ' Art Potteries ' is highlj' recommended. The Protestant Cemetery is closed for want of r.:)<:>m. There is now a Prottstant Section at the Campo Saiito. Protestant Hospital: Pi- azza San B.irtolommeo, un- der medical superintendence. There are private rooms, where gentlemen or ladies can be received in case of severe illness, and where they will have better nurs- ing' and attenti'jn than they can hope for in an hotel. It is well deserving of the sup- INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 521 port of our travelling fel- low-countrymen. A book to recf-ive tlie names of sub- scribers will be found at tbe principal hotels. Public Library: Open in summer, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; iii winter, 8 to 11 a.m. Restaurants: lioina. Via Roma and Galleria Maz-zini ; Concordia, witli garden and louutain, Via Gariba'di, op- posite tlie Palazzo Rosso ; San Guttardo, Via Carl. Felice, excellent and mode- rate; Raffaele, 5 Via y. Luca, 1st floor, cheap and good; fjnio7ie, 9 Piazza Campetto ; Marchese, late Jia>;thianino, Piazza Ser- riglio. between the harbour and Via S. i.uca, excellent Genoese cookeiy. S. M. Carignano : Fee for ascending the cupola, 50 c. Silks and Velvets : De- fer rari Brothers, Piazza Cumpetto, Mo. 42. Stationer : Enrico della Cam, 12 Via Carlo Felice. Steamers to Liverpool, by Cunard and Anchor Lines; Ag'-nt, Carlo FigoU. Floriu, Rubattino, tine Italian boats, on Sun., and Frai*sinet's smaller French steamers on Tiies. and vSat. to Marseilles ; Tues. and Fri. to Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Messina, and Catania ; Mon. to Leg- horn, Naples, Messina, and Catania; Thurs. to Leg- horn and Naples; Sat. to Leghorn, Bastia in Corsi' a, Maddalena, near Caprera and Porto Torres in Sar- dinia; Wed. to Porto Tor- res, calling at Leghorn ; Sun, Mon., and Tues. to Leghorn and Cagliari in Sardinia; Sun. and Mon. calling at Civita Vecchia; on Tues. going on to Tunis. To London in 7 days, by the Noi-ddeutscher Lloyd of Bremen, 1st class, 9l. 10s. LeopoldoBi others, 10 Piazza San Siro. The same Co. run passenger steamers to New York direct evfry 20 days. * Werra ' and •hulda' (4814 tons) are most comfortable. Telegraph Office : Palazzo Ducalp, open day and night. Tramway from the Piazza Caricamento, W, to San Pier d' Arena, Cornigliano, Sestri, aud PegU: N. to Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, in tlie Val Polcevera. Wine : Giarotto, 6 Via Sebastiano, opposite the Caffe Roma. Gentilino, 92. Gei:a d'Adda, 192. Gesso HivEK, 49. Ghiara d'Adda, 192. GniBULLO, 474. GHIFFA, 115. //. Ghiffa. Ghifola, Madoxxa Dr, 39. Ghisalba, 208. GIANDOLA, 51, H. des Etrangers; II. de la Poste. GIGNESE, 113. Alb. Alpino. Gioleto, birthplace of, 62. GIORNICO, 78. Alb. del Cervo; Alb. della Corona. Gittana, 107. Giubiasco, 78, 90. GlUDICARIA, 244. Glukns, 101. GoiTO, 179. GOLDAU, 76. Golden Legend, 484. GOMAGOI. 103. //. Keinstadler. GORDOLA, 90. GORDONA, 95. GORIZIA. 344. Alb. della Posta ; Alb. Fnrmentini; Alb. Corona d' L'ngheria. GoRLAGO, 209, 213. GbSCHENEN, 77. //. Goschencn. *BufFtt; luncheon, 3^ fr. with wine. Oinn. to Andermatt, 2 fr. ; two-horse carriage, 10 fr. Dil. to Coii-e and Brieg. GOSSENSASS, 219. *//. (rrobner. GozzAxo, 31, 67, 75. GRAGLIA. 27. Hydropathic Establish- ment, with Post and Tele- graph. 10 fr., all included. Good Trattoria at the Sanctuary. Rooms in the Ospizio. Grana River, 55. Grandate, 87. guandola, 93. Gkaxd Paradis, 34. Grande Rossi-ke, 42. GRAVEDONA, 108. Alb. Gravedona. GRAVELLONA, 59, 74. 114. Alb. del Sempione. Omn. to Pallanza, 75 c. Dil. to Baveno. Grazzaxo, 210. GRESSONEY LA TRINITE, 27, 36. //. Thedy. GRESSONEY ST. JEAN, 27, 36. Pens. Delapierre; H. du Mont Rose. Grevo, 212. guezzaxa, 243. Grigxo, 351. Grisanche River, 39. GROSSOTTO, 100. Alb. Pini. Grotta del Russo, 45. Grumello, 209. Guala dei Bicchieri, Cardi- nal, 27. GTTASTALLA, 467, 468. Alb. ddla Posta. Guercino, Memorials of, 366. GuERTsoN, N. D. de la, 42. GUGGERNi/LL, 93, 94. GuiDizzoLO, 178. GuiL Valley, 47. GURTNELLEN, 77. GiJTSCH, mountain, 76. Llasta Pompeija, 53. Ilaivkswood, Sir John, 458. Heilige Drei Brunnea", 103. Ilinter Bhein, source of the, 94. Hone Bard, 36. Hydrophane, 7. I. Idice River, 457. Idice Nuovo Riv£e, 428t Idro, 244. 522 IXDEX AXD DIRECTORY. iLi.Asr, 246. Il rAS?o, 349. Il .Soll.0, 87. Im5ikn.onna di Livo, 108. Mai'Onna dkl Montf, Beuico, 252. Madonna pel iloxxE (Va- kese), 83. Maixjnka della Ruota, 479. Madonna di S. Maktino, 106. Madonna. DEL Sasso, 110, 116. Madonna del Socconso, 108. Madonna di Sovioke, 506. MADONNA DI TIRANO, 99. Alb. San Michele. MAGADINO. 90, 115. II. Bellevue Magasa, 244. 245. Magenta, 32. Maggia River, 112. 116. Magnavacca, 349. Magra River, 475, 508. Magre, 341. Magreglio, 89. Maira River, 48. Malamocco, 327, 347. Malatei'ta family, 423. Malcesine, 217. Mal' ontenta, 269. Malghera, Fort, 269. Malgrate, 89. Malnate, 83. JUalone Kiver, 25. Malraga, 208. 166. Mandkllo, 97, 98. Manerra, 216. Manekisto, 210. Mangano, 181. MANTUA, 198. 178, 467. Hotels : Aquila d'Oro, the best, ltkhI food, reason- able ; Croce Verde, nearly opposite ; both in the main street. C&Sh : Veneziano; Yec- clilo ; near the end of the main street, close to S. Andrea. Chemist : Foggia, Via S. Giovanni del Tempio. Cab : 75 c.; first hour, H 'r. ; second, 1 fr. Bookseller : Mondovi, 10 Via Orefici. Marano, 269. Marasino, 212. Makcakia, 197. Mara, I'olo, huuse of, 326. Marecchia Kiveu, 421, Markncjo, 54, 63. Mariago, 89. Marmo Majolica, 82. MAROGGIA, 79. Ijjcanda Elvczia. Maiione, 212. Marradi, 460, 472. Martell Thal, 102, 104. Martinengo, 208. Marzobotto, 469. Mas, 336. Mascheke, Le, 471, Masegre, 99. Maser, 335. Masi, 350. MASSA (Carrara), 502. II. Aiassa, Pension, 6 tc 6i lire; Alb. Giappone. Massagno, 78, 93. Massalombarda, 428, 429. Mattarana, 505. Marjen Reuss River, 77, Mazzorbo, 328, 330. Meda, 88. Medole, 178, 207. MEINA, 113. Alb. Zanetta; Alb. del Yerbano. Meldola, 463. Mele Promontory Melegnano, 430. 480. MELIDE. 79, 90. 92. Locanda Michel i, Mella (Mela) River, 168. Melzo, 166. MENAGGIO. 93. 107. *(irand H. Vi it or i a, Tfens. 8 fr. ; En^. Ch. Service in May, .Tune, and Sept. *//. Metifiggio, close to the landing-place and Stat, MENDRISIO. 79. *i/. Mendrisio; II. An- gela. Mentone, 51, 478. Mera Ri\ ei:, 95. Meran, 104. MERATE. 117. Alb. del Sole. I\rERCENASCO, 35. Mergozzo, Lake, 115, Merone, 88. 89. Merula River, 480. Mesola, 347, 348, 349. Mestre, 269, 341, 345. Metamancum, 347. Mezzofanii. Card., 387. Mezzolara, 428. Miage, Glacier de, 42. Miasino, 75, 109. MiGNANEGO, 55. MiGNENZA, 475. MILAN. 120, 80, 88. Central Stat. (F. 3), good B'tfct, a Landsouie build- ing, with paintings by I'agliano and Induno in the waiting-rooms. There is another Stat outside the Porta Genova (A. B. ><), on the line to Alessandria— the railroad making the circuit of half the city in passing from one to the other. Xiird Mil ana Stat., for Varese and Lavencj (B. 5). Hotel Omnibus only at the Central Stat. Cab, I fr. 25 c. ; luggage, 25 c, each heavy package. Porter into the town, 50 c. ; Tramway, 10 c. Hotels : 1st class— *jy. de la Villa (1, F. 5, 6); good position. Table-d'hOte, 5 fr. without wine ; diimer in private, 6 fr. ; luncheon, 3 fr. 50 c. ; bedrooms from 4 fr. ; service 1 fr. a day, no Pension. *//. Cavour, facing the public gardens (6, F. 4), very good and quiet ; no Pension. *II. Continental (.', E. 5), Pen- sion, 12 fr., lift. //. Milann, frequented by Germans. Pens. 11 fr. Post, Tele- graph, and Rh-. Ticket Office. //. Gran lirettagna, in the Via Torini (3, D. 6), with a winter garden, mode- rate charges. Hotel Manin, opposite the Museo Ci vico (F. 4), small, comfortable, and clean. Pens, lo fr. 2nd class —H. Europa (5, E. 5, 6). Pens. 11 fr., and H. Roma, next door. //. Mttropole, Piazza del Duomo, lift, reasonable. //. Centrale (S. Marco), Via del Pe-sce. J'ens. 8 fr. H. Bella Vcnezia, Piazza S. Fedele (restaurant, but no table-d'hute). H. du Lion et Trois Suisses, corner of the Coreo Vittorio Emanuele (F. 5), reason- able. Pozzo, Via Torino (l>. 6). Francio, 19 C rso Vitt. Eman., both cood and cheap. H. du Nord, near the Central Station. Restaurants : Biffi, Gal- INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 525 leria Vittorio Emanuele, Guffanti, 2 Via Sau Giu- seppe, near La Scala. Ee- becchino. Via Santa Mar- gherita (also 2nd - class hotel), dear. Toscana,'E.uf the Galleria Vittorio Eman- uele. Cafes : Gnocchi, Biffi, both in the Galleria Vitt. Em. Cova, near La Scala rmusic, 8 to 10). Guffanti (Borsa), 2 Via SanGuiseppe, near the Scala. Eden, Piazza Castello. Alberti, Via Mercanti. One of the specialties of Milan is the paneltone (plum-loaf), made in large qu;mtities, espe- cially at Christmas and Car- nival. Public Baths, with swim- ming - basin, Bagno di Diana, outside 'he Porta Venezia, 1 fr. Bayno Xa- zionale, Yiale di Porta Ticinense (D. 8). Post Office : Via Ras- trelli, beliind the Palazzo Peale. Open a a.m. to 9 P.M. Telegraph Office : Piazza dei ^lercauti ; open at all hours. Cabs ( Vetture) : The letter A refers to carriages with white numbers ; B to yellow Railway cabs with red numbers : — fr. c. For the course . 1 Halfauhouri. . 1 An hoiu- , . . 1 50j Each subsequent half-hour . .10 Each article of lug- I gage outside . 25 fr.c. 25 Carriages for the day and for excursions. The Omni- bus Company (Socitta Ano- mima degli Omnibus) let out good carriages for the town and country within 50 miles at very reasonable prices. Tariff and orders at the office in the Piazza del Duomo and outsio, 108. Passo di Sax Jorio. 108. Passo di Madesiiio, 95. Pavesaxa, 192. PAVIA, 186, 192, 429. Hotels : Croce Bianca (a, C. 3); TreReih. C. 3). Restaurant : Demetrio, iu the Corso ; also a Cafe. Post Office : in the Jlercato Coperto. Cabs: SO c. a drive; 1 fr. 50 c. an hour. Bookseller : Bizzoni, 73 Corso Vitt. Emanuele. , Pazzolino, 92. Pazzolo, 91. Pecorile, 451. Pedescala, 333, 351. Redone, 49. PEGLI, 485. *n. de la MediterranSe, in a large garden ; H. Gargini; H. Angleterre, cheaper. Eng. Church of St. John. Pejo, 100. Pelestrina, 347. PELLA, 110. Alh. del Pesce. I^ellagra, 63. Pellino Falls, 110. Pentapolis, 423. PERGINE. 350. Alb. VoUoUni. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 529 Pert, 121. Perinaldo, 479. Perledo, 98, Peeosa, 47. PESCHIERA, 179, 213, 214. Locauda Torrette, veiy poor. Pescone Torrent, 75, PESIO (Certosa di), 48, 49. ♦Hotel and Pension, ex- cellent, openj on 1st June, 9 fr. a day. Physician : Dr. Malgat. Peter Martyr, Death of, 79. Petrarch, House of, 354. Pettikasco, 75. Pfaffenspkuxg, 77. PIACENZA, 432, 67. Good Buffet. Inns : Croce Bianca (B. 4), tolerable, and not «iear ; Italia (C. 4) ; S. Marco, a little W. of the Croce Bianca, comfortable, oblig- iug landlord. Cafes : Battaglia, in the Piazza dei Cavalli ; Grande, in the Strada S. Raimondo. Post Office : Strada S. Lazzaro (C. 5). Cabs : The course, 50 c- ; for each half-hour, 75 c. ; 2 horses, the course, 75 c. ; the half-hour, 1 fr., 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., 25 c. extra; port- manteau, 25 c. Omnibus : 75 c. PlADENA, 197. PlASAZZO, 94. PlANERO, 470. Pianezza, 7. Piano, 48. plaxo delle fugazze, 332. Piano Tondo, 78. PiATTA Martina, 101. Piave River, 336, 342. Piazza, 98. Piazza Maggiore, 269. Piazzola, 451. PIEDICAVALLO, 27. JI. Mologna, good. PlEDIMULERA, 74. Pierre Taill£e, 39. PlETOLE, 198. Pietraliguee, 481. PlETEAMALA, 470. PIETRASANTA, 502. Alb. Uniont; Alb. Earopa, Pietro Bembo, 339, PlEVE d'Arrosia, 46, I'lEVE DEL Casio, 59. PiEVK DI Cento, 366, 401. PIEVE DI LEDUO, 245, H. Touriste; Mb. alia Torre. PiEVE S. Stefano, 427. PiKVE DI Tesino, 351. PIEVE DI VALL' ARSA, 332. Rough Inn. PrGNA, 479. PiLONE, Madonna del, 43, PINEROLO, 47. Alb. della Camjoana ; Alb. Cannone d'Oro. Pineta, 420, 349. Pino, 43, 90. PiovE, 269. ProvENE, 333. Pioverna River, 98, 107. Pisa, 509. PiSCIADELLA, 100. risciatello River, 465, 466. PISOGNE, 212, 213. Alb. GlisouL PiSTOIA, 470. Piteccio, 470. PiTELLI, 507. PiURO, 95. Pizzighettone, 192. Pizzo DEL Mare, 102. PiZZO DEL MORO, 111. Pizzo Scaling, 99. Pizzo Teri'.e, 94. Pizzo DEI Tre Signori, 98. Placentia, 432. Plancie, 50. Pleis, 103. Pliny the Younger, birthplace of. 85. Po River, 190, 347, 349, 356, 401, 467. PODESTARIA, 244. PoGGio Renatico, 365. POGGIO Rusco, 401. POGNO, 67. PO.IANA, 254. Poicevera River, 485, Polenta, 464. Polesella, 355. Pollentia, 55. FOLLENZO, 55. PoMPOSA, 348. PoNALE Falls, 217. ponfienza, 191, Pont, 34, 36. Pont d'Ael, 39, Pont Bosel, 36. Pont Davisod, 39. Pont St. Louis, 478. PONT S. MAHTIN, 34. Alb, della Bosa. Pont des Salassiens, 36, pontassieve, 473- PONTE, 34. Alb. Valentino. PONTE BELLA BaDIA, 473. PoNTE DI Beenta, 269. PONTE B ROLL A, 116. Ponte DI Caffaro, 244. PoNTE Cella, 421, 474. Ponte Curone, 65. PONTE GRANDE, 75, 111. Good Inn. Ponte della Gula, 70, 111, PoNTE Lago Scuko, 356. Ponte Lcngo, 481. Ponte Malocche, 197. PONTE DI NaVA, 46. Ponte Nuovo, 89. PONTE DELL' OLIO, 210. Alb. del Sole. Ponte della Rocca, 34, Ponte San Marco, 78, Ponte S. Pietro, 161. PONTE DELLA SELVA, 208, 213. Good Inn. Ponte Tresa, 90, 115. Ponte della Veja, 243. Ponte della Venturina, 470. PONTEBBA, 344. Bullet. pontedecimo, 485. pontenure, 437. Pontes, Col de, 50. pontremoli, 475, 508. PONZANA, 30. Pojje Julius II., 483, 484. PORDENONE, 342. Alb. Quattro Corone. PORLEZZA, 93, 107. Alb. del Lago (Pension). 2 M 2 530 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. POREETTA. 469. -1/^. Carour, tolerable, In Summer, good accommo- dation at the Baths. Portico, 473. Pokto(Lago Maggioue), 115. Porto Cekesio, 83. 90. Porto Fino, 503. 504. PoRTOGRUARO, 343. 345, 346. portomaggiore, 401, 428. Porto di Magxavacca, 348. PORTO MAURIZIO, 480. 476. H. de France, very bad Inn, but civil people. PORTONE, 475. PORTO VENERE, 507. Trattoria yazionale, near the landing-place. Portoro Marble, 507. Porza, 93. POSCHIAVO, 99. PossAGXo, 338. l^OVEGLTA, 347. PozzAS A Falls, 116. I'OZZOLEXGO, 179. TiiX, 485. PRACCHIA, 470. BuBet. PRAD. 104. B. Alte Post; H. Xetie Poft. Peata, 95. Prato (St.Gotthard), 78. Pratolixo, 471. Predore, 213. PREr;ASIXA, 217. Prehele River, 340. PREMENO, 115. //. Premeno (Pens.). PRi:-ST.-DIDIER, 40. //. Pom ; H. de Londres. PCE.^TINE, 212. Primaro, 349. PRIMOLANO. 336, 351. Alb. delta Posta. PROMONTOGNO, 96. li< tel Breqaglia. Cb. Service (C. C. S.). PrLiorAxo, 472. PtJNTA BlAXCA, 508. Plxta del Cor\ o, 508. Eng. I'unta Pagaxo, Plkia, 92. Qcaderxa, 457. QuadrilattraJ, The, 207. Quakazza, 112. QUARXA, 75. Quarto (Genoa), 502. Quarto Cagnixo, 160. Quart Villefraxche, 37. Quattro Castella, 451. Querazzo PtivER, 55. Querciolaxo, 473. quixcixetto, 35. aUINTO (Gexoa), 502. Jlottl Quinto, in a garden. QuiSTO (Veroxa), 243. Palhiosa Torrent, 95. Raccoxigi, 47. RAPALLO. 503. Hotels: //. de V Europe, excellent, troodfood, otditring landlord; H. RapalloiJ'vs &). English Church Service (S. p. G.) from Dec. 15 to Apr. 20 at the latter Hotel. Chemist : Tonolli, makes up English prescriptions. RAVENNA, 401, 349, 428, 474. Hotels : Hotel Byron, good food, charges raiher high. Alb. San Marco. Cafe Byron, at the I'oet's House. Avoid local water, which comes fri^m turbid wells. Acqiia potabile is brought from Trieste. Cab : 1 fr. the drive, 2 fr. the hour; outside the town, according to bargain. Steam Tramway to Forli, starting from the Piazza Danto. Booksellers : Fratelli T>a>-iil, Via Cairoli. Photographs : Picci, Via Farini. Steamer to Trieste in 10 hrs., every Sun. after- noon, returning on Thurs. fare 30 fr. Eazotta Torrext, 472. Pea Et^er, 45. Recco, 503. RECOARO. 340. 221. 332. In the village, Alb. Ea- ropn, Trettenero, Tre Co- rone; at the Springs, .'?tabi- UiHcnto Reale, Giovgetti. REGGIO NELL' EMILIA, 450, 467. Alb. della Posta, best rooms. Carriage for Can ossa. 15 or 25 fr. Alb. Centrale, best food. Cajre dell' Eu- ropa, in the Piazza, good. Regoledo, 98, 107. Reno EtvER, 365, 428. 456. 468, 469. Eescia, 92. Eesegoxe, 87, 89. Rttrone Eivek, 248. Retto Torrext, 505. Reuss Ei\ er, 77. Eevello, 47. Eezzaxo, 436. Eezzato, 178. 244. Eezzoxico, 107. Ehemes, 39. Eho, 33. 80. Richini, birthplace of, 167. Rigossa Eiver, 465, 466. ElMA, 111. RIMASCO. 111. Poor Inn. ElMELLA, 75, 111. RIMINI. 421. 466. Hotels : Alb. Aquila d'Oro. good food, clean rooms, reasonable charges ; Alb. dPtEDO, 429. S. GiORio, 6. S. GiovANXi Ilarioxe, 339. S. Giovanni (Lake of Como), 107. S. Giovanni (Loveue), 213. S. Giovanni Manzano, 344. S. GIOVANNI (Ospizio di), 27. Pension, 5 fr. S. Giovanni, sanctuary of, 27. S. Giovanni (TIMA^ o), 344. S. GlULIANO, 65. S. GiULio, MoLA m, 109. S. GiusEPi-E DI Cairo, 46, 68, 483. S. Godenzo, 473. St. GoTTiiARD, 7S, 77. St. Grat, 38. S. Ignazio, sanctuary of, 34. S. Ilario, 450. S. Lazzaro (Parma), 449. S. Lazzaro (Fiacenza), 437. S. Lazzaro (Venice), 327. S. Leo, 427. S. Lorenzo (Riviera), 476, 480. S. I^RENZO DELLA COSTA, 504. S. Lucia, 222. S. MAMETTE, 92. .4/'^. Stella d' Italia. St. Marcel, 37. S. M. i>i Campo, 504. S. M. i>ei,lkChiavari, 504. S. M. DELL-V Corona, 217. S. M. delleGrazie(Mantua), 197. S. M. Incokonata, 485. S. M. Maddalena, 355. S. Maria (MuNbTER Thal), 101. S. M. in roNTO, 349. S. M. DELLE Stelle, 243. S. MARGHERITA, 503. //. Jiellecue, good taV^le and cxcellcct wine. Pens. 6i to 8 fr, English Chap- lain from March 16 to April 20. S. MARIA (SteIvio), 102. .Sinall Inn. S. MaRTINO DELLE BaTTAGLIE, S. Martino di Lantosca, 50. S. Martino (Xovara), 32. S. Martino (Verona), 246. S. Michele(Garda). 216. S. MiciiELE (Sagra di), 6. S. MicHELE (Venice), 328. S. MiCHELE (VEliONA), 243, 245. S. NiccoLo (Bologna), 457. S. NiccoLo (Piacenza), 66. St. PETEii's Thal, 94. S. PiERo, 472. St. Pierre (Val d'Aosta), 39. S. PlETKO IN Bagno, 465. S. PlETEO IN Casale, 365. S. Polo, 436. S. QuiKico, 340. St. Eemv, Col de, 42. S. Rocco, 504. S. RoMOLO, 479. S. SiGISMONDO, 196. S. Sofia, 473. S. Spirito, 347. S. Stefano di Magra, 475. S. Stefano (Riviera), 480. S. Terenzo (Lunigiana), 475. S. Terenzo (Spezia)j 507. St. Theodfle, 37. S. ToMMAso IN Limine, 166. S. ViGiLio, 217. ST. VINCENT, 36. JI. Lion d Or ; IT. Ecu de France. S. Vitale, 339. S. Vito, 345. Sala (Lake of Como), 106. Sala (Lecco), 89, 118. Sala (Lugano). 92. Salassi, The, 37, 40. Salbkrtrand, 4. Sale, 65, 212. Salle, LuI, 40. Salmocr, 45. Salsubium, 473. SaLTO DELLA BeLLA AlDA, 7. SAL6. 216, 178, 244. Alb. del Gambero, fair; make a bargain. 2f. Said, peas. 8 fr. SALSOMAGGIORE, 439. Gr. Alhergo Dctraz e Pa- ri ighi, U. 2.50, D. 5 Ir., Baths 1 to 3 fr. Tax for the Season, 8 fr. SALTJTE (La), 115. Inn at the Hydropathic fitablislimcnt. Saluzzo, 47, 49. Salvarano, 451. Samoggia, 456. Samolaco, 96. 5AMPIERD ARENA, 55, 485, Butfet. SAN DALMAZZO DI TEN- DA. 51. Hrdropathic EstaWish- ment, well-managed. Chap- Iain in Jul}' and Aug. Sangone, 46. SAN LEO. 427. Locaiida I'enanzi, homely. SAN MARCELLO. 470. AJb. ilella Posta; Alb. dilla Pace; Pens. Eochai. Many Furnished Rooms in the vill.ige. TiJla Jlar- gherita, i m. from the vil- lage, good Pension, with large Music-room and Baths. SAN MARINO. 425. 426. Alh. Michetti,[nthQBoTgo, tolerable. SAN PIETRO (SusA), 4. Good Inn, much frequent- ed in sumajer. SAN REMO, 479. Hotels (all of the first- clas?, and excellent) : West End (lifi) ; Roiial ; Ajiglais ; Lomlres ; lies Britauniques ; Bellevue ; Paradt's; all W. of the town. Second class: //. de I Europe et la Paix, near the Stat.; JS'alional ; Commerce, good ; all in the town. On the E. side, first- class, Victoria; M^diterra- nee ; Nice. Second-class : H. de Rome. Pensions : Quisimna ; Flora, Trapp, *Bri.^tol, Pa- vilion, Eden, Bcllacista, II. de la Beine; all good, to the AV. of the town. Villa Bel- vedere; Villa Lindenhoj' ; E. of the town. The prices at the hotels and pensions vary much, and inquiry should be made beforohaud. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 533 Apartments and Villas for tlie season are easily ob- tained. Apply to Mr. t'on- gi-ece, 16 Via Viitorio Emu- nnele, or to Mr. Beneckt, Ko. 15. Bankers : AaqKasriati, 23 Via Vitt, Emanuele ; A. Rubino, No. 19 ; JIarsagI ''a Brothers ; Mombello, De- hraud & Co. Boat : 1 fr. an hour. Bookseller, with a circu- lating library, GandrAfo. British Vice-Consul : Mr. Coigreve, also wine mer- chant and house agent. U.S.A. Con-ular Agent, Al- berto Ameglio. Cahs : in the lower part of the town, 1 fr. the course by daj-, 1 fr. 50 c. at night ; two horses, 1 fr. 50 c. and 2 fr. 50 c. On the higher ground, 50 c. extra. 15y the ht)ur, lower town, 2 fr. j ta'O horses, 3 fr. ; upper town, 50 c. extra ; outside the town, another 50 c. Cafes: Coimiiirce; Earo- Cluh : Circolo Interna- zionale. English C I ub,Y\\]A. Auila, Via VitL Emanuele. Dentists : Ems, 19 Via Yitt. Emanuele ; Dr. C. T. Terry, Villa Bracco, No. 6, American. Donkey : 5 fr. a day, 3 fr. half a day. English Church : St. John Baptist, Via Carli ; All Saints, Corso Imperiale. English Druggist: F. E. Squire, 19 Via Vittorio Emanuele (qualified). English Grocers : Steiner Saluzzi A Co., Via Vittorio Emanuele. English Nurses Institute, 19 Via Vitt. Emanuele. There is a Home for Eng- lish invalid ladies in reduced circumstances, and a Society for providing competent English Nurses In ca-e of extreme illueis in families Agent for forwarding Luggage, Carlo Stefano, 11 Corso Marina. Music three times a week £u the Public Gardens. Physicians : Dr. hree- nian; Or. Michael Foster; Dr. H. Gray; Dr. F. H. Eumphrii ; all English. Post and Telegraph, in the Via Roma. Restaurants : Europeen, Metropole, Cavour. SAN ROMOLO, 479. ff. des Alices, poor. Lun- cheon should be brought from San Remo. Saxta. 118. SANTA CATARINA, 100. *Stahiliinento di Bagni, closed on 15 Sept. &4-Xi:ekno, 428, 457. SANTHIX. 26. Alh. del Pallone. Santino, 115. Santissime Croci (relics), 169. Saxtcakio, 483, 59. Saokgio, 50, 51. Sapin, Col dc, 42. Sarca Rivee, 218. Saematix, 45. Saejiato, 66. SAENICO, 213. Alb. Leo)ie d'Oro; Alb. Vapor e. SARONNO, 71, 83, 87, 161. Alb. Madonna. Saree, Chateau de, 39. Saetieaxa, 59. SARZANA. 508, 451, 457. Inn: Alb. di Londra, near the Cathedral, good food. Saezaxello, 509. Sassaluo, Pass, 451. Sassella, 99, Sasso, 469. Sasso di Casteo, 471. Sasso di Feeeo, 82, 115. Sasso della Luka, 107. Sasso Raxcio, 108. Sassuolo, 451, 468. Savaux, 4. Savena Rivee, 367, 428, 457, 470. Savenes, 50. Savien Thal, 94. SAVIGLIANO, 48. Alb. della Corona. Savigsaxo (Rexo), 469. Savigkano (Rimisi), 465. Savio EiYEB, 421, 464. SAVONA, 482, 59. Alb. Scizzero, excellent food, D. 5 fr. with wine ; Luncheon, 2 fr. Omn. to San- tuario. Alb. di Roma, op- posite the Stat., cheap. Buffet . Iritish Vice-Consul: Sig. Ottav'o Ponzone, 5 ilolo (10 to 12, and 2 to 4). Seaman's Institute close by. Pinacoteca : Sun. and Thur^, 10 to 2. SCALA, 99. SCALAEE DI CeEESOLE, 34. SCAREGLIA, 93. Good Mountain Inn. Scaeexa, 51. Scarpeeia, 471. SCHILPARIO, 212. Good lun. SCHIO, 332, 221, 34L Alb. Croce ' Urod. ScHWYz, 76. Scrivia Rivee, 54, 65. Sebum, 213. Secchia Rivee, 451, 468. Sedico Beibano, 336. Seelisbeeg, 76. Seew'ex, 76. Segusium, 4. SELLA, 350. Rou-h but clean accom- modation at the Baths. Sella Rivee, 469. Semafoeo, 504. Senio Rivee, 428, 458. Seeegxo, 72, 80. Seeoiaxa, 508. Seriate, 208. Serio Rivee, 208, 210. Seemide, 401. Seemione, 179, 214. Sersio, 100. SERRADA, 350. Alb. del Cacciatore. Seeeaglio, 198. Serralunga, 60. Serravalle (San Maeiso), 426. Sereavalle (Scrivia), 54. Seeeavalle (Vexeto), 342. Sesia Rivee, 30, 62. Sesto, 120. I Sesio CjLlexde. 60, 81. 534 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. SESTRI LEVANTE. 505. H. dc I'J-hu-ope, close to the Sea. tolerable. Carriage to Spezia, 2 horses, 50 fr. SESTRI PONENTE, 485. *Grand Hotel, comfort able, good food, reasonable Eng. Ch. Service. Setta Rivek, 469. Sette Comuni, 332. Settimo, 25, 34. Seveso S. Pietro, 79, 88. Sezze, 56. SJielley, residence of, 507. Sieve River, 471, 473, Sile River, 331, 334. Sill River. 219. Sillaro River, 457. SiLofi, Foktaike de, 39. Silvio Fellico, birthplace of, 47. Simonetta, Villa, 161. SiSA, 474. SrsiKON, 76. SiVIANO, 213. Slavini i>i S, Marco, 221. Soana River, 34. Soarza, 438. Soave, 246. sogliano, 466. SOGLIO, 96. If l^ension Giovavoli. SOLADINO P^ALLS, 116. SOLAGNA, 351. SOLFERINO, 179. 222. Fair country Inn. SOMERARO, 109. SoMMA Campagna, 180, 466. SoMMA Hills, 80. SOSIMA LOMBARDO, 80. 80NCINO, 166, 167, 208. SONDRIO, 99, 211. Al>. delta J'asla: Alb. Jlladdalena. Sontius, 344. SOPRA LA CROCE, 504. Locanda Pittalmja, good. SoRi:siNA, 210. SoRi, 503. SOSPELLO. 51. //. Carenco; IT, de la Paste. SOTTOMARINA, 346, 347. SPEZIA. 506. Hotels : *C'roce di Malta, clean, comfortable, and well- kept ; luncheon with wine, 3 fr., D, with wine, 5 fr. ; R.L.A. from 4 fr. 75 c. Pens. 8 to 12 fr. l.arge J.ibrary. Omn., 1 fr. Gran Brettugna and Italia, both commercial ; Giappone, Corso Cavour, tolerable. Boats (Rowing) : l fr. an honr. Cabs ; YO c. ; with two horses, 1 fr. Tariff for Cabs and Row- ing Floats at the Hotel. Cafes : Elcetico; C. dd Corso. Post Office : Corso Cavour. Telegraph Office : Via Da Passano. Eng. Church Service at the Hotel Croce di Malta, Dec. to .May. Bentist : Dr. Bright, twice a month at the H. Croce di Malta. British Vice - Consul : J()S''2^h II. ToKsey, Esq. Carriage to Porto Venere, 8 to 12 fr. Steamer there and back, 50 c. Spigxo, 57. Spilimbergo, 343. Spineticum Ostium, 349. Spixetta, 65. STORO, 244. Alb. Camllo Bianco. Stra, 269. Slrada Francesca, 474. Strada Beyina, 108. Stradella, 66, 190. Stradivarius, 193, Strambino, 35. STRESA, 113. 109. */f. des lies Borromees, pens. 11 fr. Eng. Church Service. *II. Milan, close ti) the Steamlxjat Pier, pens. 10 fr. Alb. San Gottardo. unpretending. Dil. twice daily to Gravcllona. B<->at to the Isola Bella, 2 fr. First hour, 2 fr. ; each suc- ceeding hour, 1 fr. Physician : I>r. H. Dan- SPLtJaEN, 93, II Bodenhaus m^gen. Spoxdalunga, 101, SPONDINIG, 104. // Ilirxch. Spotorxo, 482. Spresiano, 342. Stabbio, 79. Stagliexo, 501. Stanghella, 355. Stanghellini, 339. Stato rallavicino, 438. Stkin-acii, 219. Steinex, 76. Stellone River, 44. STELVIO, 96. 102. Restaurant at the Third Canton iora. Stilfs, 104. Stirone River, 438. SXOLDO LORESZI, 139. Strigxo, 351. Strona Rivek, 74, 81, SXUETTA, 94. STTTPrNTGI, 47. Alb. dd Castel Vecchio, behind the royal villa. Stiira River, 25, 34, 45, 48, 49. Stura, source of the, 50, Sturla, 502. Supers, 94. Sulden Thal, 103. Sulzaxo, 212. SinfA. 115. Pens. Camenisch. SUPERGA. 23. Good Restaurant close to the Church. Surettahoener, 94. STISA, 4. //. de Soleil; H. de France ; both very rough, Scsegaxa, 342. SusTEx Thal, 77. SrzzARA, 401, 467. Sylvana, 503. T. Taetta Thal, 103. Taggia, 476, 480. Tagliamento River, 343, 346. Taglio di Po, 347, 348. IKDEX AND DIRECTORY. 535 TAtxo, 60, 113. Talamoxa, 98. Tambohoex, 93, 94. Tanarelo, The, 46. Taiiaro River, 45, 52, 53, 59, 62. Tanaro, source of the, 46. Taxeto, 450. Taro RiVEU, 438, 439, 474. Tartaglia, escape of, 167. Tasso, prison of, 363. Tavagnasco, 35. Tavarone Torrent, 475. Tavazzaxo, 430. Ta VERNE, 78, 93. Taverxelle, 247, 339. Taverkola, 213. Teglio, 99. Tell's Platte, 76. TENDA, 50. Alb. Nazionale; Alb. d'ltalia. Post Omnibus to Nice in 13 hrs., 10 fr. Two-horse carriage, 80 fr. Tendola, 475. Tenko, 218. Terdoppio River, 31, 59. Terxate Varano, 80. Terrarossa, 475. Terra del Sole, 473. Terzo, 57. Tessa River, 34. Tezze, 351. THIENE. 333. Alb. delta Luna. Thurwieser Spitze, 102. Thusis, 93. Tiberiacum, 428. Ticino River, 32, 60, 71, 78, 81, 90, 112, 190, 191. Timavo River, 344. Timonchio River, 332. TIRANO, 99. Alb. Italia; Alb. Pasta (see Madanna diTirano) Toccia River (Toce), see Tosa, 74. TOTRAXO, 481. Toxale, 212. Toxale Pass, 99. TOXGARA, 340. TORBOLE. 218. Alb. Bertolini. Torcello, 330. Torello, 92. ToRMixi. 178, 216, 217, 244. Tokxavexto, 32. TOENO, 87, 106. Alb. Bella Venezia. Torrazza, 26. Torre (Pordexoxe), 343. Torre (Schio\ 332. Torre River. 344. Torreberetti, 59, 191. Torre delle Armi, 476. torre di boccioleto, 111. Torre d'Orlando, 439. TORRE PELLICE, 47. B. de I' Ours; H. Lion d'Or. TORKt DEI PiCEXARDI, 197. Torriani Family, 87. TORRIGIA, 106. TORTONA, 65, 191. Alb. Croce Hianca. Tosa River, 74, 112. toscolaxo, 217. Tour de Luserxe, 47. Tovo, 100. Tradate, 83. TRAFOI, 103. H. Post; H. Schdnen A'usskht. Tramways (Steam) ix North Italy, 542. Trappa, 46. Travi, 78. Trebbia River, 437. Trebbiaxo, 508. Trecate, 32. Tre Croci, 83. Tregxaxo, 246. ^ Trelatete, 43. TREMEZZO, 106. Alb. Bazzani, civil people, clean and good ; pens. 7 fr., including wine. Tremosixe, 217. TRENT, 219, 218, 350. *Granrl Hotel Trento, near the Stat.; H. Emopa, Via Lunga. Gaffe : ,Vo??es, P. del IMar- cello Vecchio. Baths : Saiola Pubblica di nuota. Via Madruzza. Photographs : G. B. Untervegher, No. I Via alia Stazione. Post and Telegraph Offices : Piazza della Posta. Carriages : F. Gcnnari, Via Larga. Trepalle, 100. Tres Pontes, 103. Tresa River, 60. 90, 112. Tresexda, 99, 211. TRESCORRE. 209. Several :itabUimenti. TREVIGLIO, 166, 167. Alb. Hegina d'lnghil- terra. TREVISO, 334, 342. Hotel: Alb. Stella d'Oro, good food, clean rooms. Omn. 50 c. Cafe below, not re- commended. Caffe Eoma, in the Piazza, good. Bookseller: Luigi Zop- pelli, 26 Calle Maggiore. Tricot, Col de, 42. Trieste, 345. Trixo, 62. Trivella, castle of, 61. Trobaso, 115. Trofarello, 43, 52, 55. Troxzaxo, 26. Trosse Blaxc, 41. TcRBiGO, 32, 71. TURIN, 7. Hotels : *Eurapa (9, D. 3), well situated in the Piazza Castello ; *Grand H. de Turin (4, C. 4), opposite the Stat., well-conducted ; Lift ; AngUterre (D. 4) — all first-class, with the usual charges Second Class: Centrale (6, D. 3); Peder MetropiiU and Bonne Penime (9, C. 3) ; Landra e Caccia Beale (8, D. 3); Doc,ana Yecchia, ViaCorte d'Appello (C. 3) ; H. Suisse (C. 5), near the Stat. Restaurants: Meridiana, in a Gallery opening out of the Via Teresa; *Cambio, Piazza Carignano; *Paris, 21 Via di Po ; Tavella, corner of Via di Po and Carlo Alberto. Second Class, Ita- lian Cookery and excellent Barbera or Barolo wine: Trattoria d'Oriente, 43 Via Lagrange (D. ."i) ; Cuccagna, 18 Via (Garibaldi (C. 3). Vermouth, for which Turin is celebrated : Carpano, 18 Piazza Castello. Cafes (very numerous) : 3Ieridiana and Paris, see above ; Borsa, 25 Via Roma. English papers. Confectioners : Bomand (late Bass), S. side of Piazza 536 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Castello ; Leonardo, 4 Via di I'o. The chocolate of Turin is considered the best in Italy. Crisp, light bread, made in luug thin sticks called yrlf.- sini, is usually served at the tablc-d'liote, and is remark- ably good. Palazzo Reale : Sun. and Thurs., 10 to 12 and 2 to 4. Tickets, No. 1 Piazza S. Giovanni, N. of the Cathe- dral, gratis. Royal Library; 9 to 11 and 2 to 4, daily. Armoury ; Daily. 11 to 3 ; pennesso obtainable only at the 1st door to the rt. on the staircase. Catalogue 5 fr. Palace Gardens : Daily in summer from 11 to 3. Kat. Hist. Museum : Daily, 1 to 4. Picture Gallery : Sun., 12 to 3, gratis ; on other days 9 to 4. Adm. 1 fr. A separate ticket (1 fr.) must be taken for the Museum of Antiquities, which also is open from 12 to 3 on Sun., free. Industrial Museum : Sun. and holidays, 12 to 4 ; on other days, 9 to 11 and 2 to 4. 1st floor, Thurs., 1 to 4. Cappella del Sudario at the Cathedral. Open daily until 10 or 11 a.m. Public Library : 8 to 6, May to Nov. ; 9 to 4 and 7 to 10, Nov. to May. Accademia Albertina : 10 to 4, 50 c. Museo Civico : Sun. and Thurs., 12 to 3, free; other days, 2 to 4, 50 c. Cabs (Cittadine) : One horse, from 6 a.m. to mid- night, the course, 1 fr. ; first half-hour 1 fr. ; first hour H fr. ; each half-hour afterwards .75 c. Two horses, the course 1 fr. 50 c. ; first half-hour H fr., first hour, 2 fr., each half-hour afterwards 1 fr. 25 c. Jor each heavy article of luggage 20 c. Pri- vate carriages,' 10 fr. halt a day, 15 fr. the day. To the Superga, two horses, 25 fr., four horses 36 fr. Tramways (10 c. the course) in all directions along the main thorough- fares, starting from the Piazza CastoUo and other central squares. Funicular Rly. to the Cappuccino, 15 c. Museo Alpine on the sunnnit, 25 c. Railway Stations : (1) Stazione Centiale. or Porta Nuova, a very handsome con- struction by Mazzucchetti, fronting the Piazza Carlo Felice (D. 5), the lermimis of all the lines. Good Buffet. (2) Siazione I'oita Susa, (\. 4), tlie first elation of the trains for Milan. (3) Station of the short line to Cirie, near the Piazza Emanucle Filiberto (C. 1). (4) Station of the line to Rivoli, near the Piazza dello Statuto (A. 3). Steam Tramways : From the Piazza Em : Filiberto (C. 2) to (1 m.) Campo Santo, (2 m.) ]iegio Farco, (4 m.) Abbadia di Stura, (6 m.) Settimo. Also to (7 m.) Leyn'i, and (9 m.) Vvlpiano. From the Piazza Castello (D. 3) to (14 m.) Chivasso, and (23 m.) Brusasco. Also to (6 m.) Moncalieri, and (17 m.) I'oirino. From the Via Cibrario ( W. of A. 3) to (7 m.) Pianezza, (7 m.) Druent, and (16 m.) Yenaria. From the Piazza dello Statuto (A. 3) to (6 m.) Tesoriera. From the Via Sacchi(C. 5) to (6 m.) Stu- pinigi, and (9 m.) Vinovo. Also to (9 m.) Orbassano, with branches to (10 m.) Cumiana, and (11 m.) Gia- veno. l-roni the Corto Vitt. Emanuele to (5 m.) Jfonca- lieri, (12 m.) Carifjiuino, (17 m.) Carinagnola, and (36 m.) Saluzzo. For the Superga, Steam Tramway to (3 m.) Sassi, thence Funi- cular Rly. Post Office and Telegraph Office : Via Principe Ame- deo, corner of Piazza Carlo Alberto (D. 3). Physician : Dr. Pacchi- o'ti, spt^aks English, 25 Via S. Francesco di I'aola. Chemists : Taricco, Via Roma ; Massino, 3 Via San Filippo. English Church Service : 15 Via Pio Quintol, behind the Vaudois Cliurch, Sun., 11 and 3.30. English-speaking Confes- sor, Abbate Grossi, San Filippo. British Consulate : 3 Via Vcnti Settembre ; ^me?-ican. 11 Via Vanehiglia. Bookseller (for guide- books, works of art, maps, and photographs) : Loescher (Carlo Clausen), 19 Via di Po; Bocca, 3 Via Carlo Alberto; Casanova, 2 Via dell' Accademia delleScienze. Bankers : Xiyra, 19 Via di'll' Arsenale ; Vincent Teja, 13 Via Ospedale ; Geisser, 13 Via delle Fin- alize. Gloves (celebrated) : Fi- orio, 13 Via Garibaldi. Baths : Via della Zecca, 40 Via Pro\'videnza. Swim- ming-baths in the riverabove the old bridge. TuKLo Pass, 111. TT. Ueate, 50. Ubayette Torkent, 50. TJCDINE, 343. 346. Alb.d'Italia,'Ei.2U.\ Alb. Croce di Malta. Buffet. Uri, bay of, 76. USMATE, 117. USMATE CaRNATE, 161. Uso River, 421, 465, 466. USSEGLIO, 4. UssEL, ChIteac d', 37. Vacciago, 110. Vada Sabatia, iS2. Vado, 482. Vaglia, 471. Val Ampola, 244. Val Aktroxa, 74. Val Anzasca, IIL Val Assina, 88. Val d'Astico, 333. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 537 VAl Belviso, 99, Val del Bitto, 98. Val Blegno, 78. Val Bkegaglta, 95, 99. Val Brembana, 98. A''albui!A, Cascade, 472. Val Camonica, 99, 212. Val Cajipo, 100. Val di Canale, 332. Val Caxxobbino, 115. Val Caetiere, 217. Val Cavalltxa, 209, 213. Val Cexta, 350. Val Ciiallaxt, 36. Val Colla, 93. Val di Cortexo, 212. Val Cun'ella, 339. Val Cuvio, 82. VALDAGNO, 340. Alo. delle Alpi. Valdechiesa, 52. VAL DEI SIGNORI, 332, 221, 341. Rough Inn. Val Dextko, 100, 101. VALDIERI, 49. Bath Establishment, 10 fr., all included. Valduggia, 67. Valeggio, 446. Valexza, 59, 191. Val Folgaria, 221. Val Forxo, 102, 104. Val Fraele, 100. Val Fcrva, 100, 102. Val di Gexova, 212. Val Grosina, 100. Vall' Intelvi, 106. Vall' Intragxa, 115. Val Lagarina, 220. Val Lantekna, 99. Val di Ledro, 218, 245. Valletta, 49. Val Levextina, 78. VAL LIVIGNO, 100. Pensione Alpina, small but good. Val Lorixa, 245. Val de Lts, 35. Valmadonxa, 59. Valmadrera, 89. Val Magliasixa, 91. Val Malexco, 99. Val di Malga, 212. Val Masi>o, 98. Val Mastallone, 111. Val Mesocco, 78, 108. Val Miller, 212. Valmuggia, 111. Vall' Olloccia, 111. Val d'Orta, 98. Val Patsco, 212. Val Pantexa, 243. Val PoLiCELLA, 243. Val Quarazzola, 112. Val Rendexa, 244. Val di Rezzo, 100. Val Roxchi, 221. Val Sabbia, 244. Val Sassixa, 97, 107. VALSAVARANCHE. 34, 39. ■W tched Inn. Val di Sella, 350. Valserberg Pass, 94. Val Seriana, 99, 208, 213. Val Sermenza, 111. Val Sesia, 70, 110, 111. Val Soana, 36. Val di Sole, 100. Valstagxa, 333, 351. Valstroxa, 75, 111. Val Sugaxa, 220, 350. Val Tellixa, 98. Val Toscolano, 245. Val Tournanche, 37. Val Vestixo, 244, 245. Val Viola, 100. Val Vitelli, 101. Val del Zebeu, 102. Val Zoldo, 337. Valle, 69. Vara River, 505. VARALLO, 26, 68, 111. Alb. d' Italia, D. 4 fr., R. 3 fr., pens. 7 to 8 fr. ; Posta ; both fair. Croce Bianca. Varallo Pombia, 60. Varazze, 484. Varedo, 88. VARENNA. 98, 107. Alb. Beale. VARESE, 82, 90. *Grand Hotel, Excelsior, excellent, on a height I m. from the town, witli a Uirge garden. Pens. 10 fr. Eng. Church. Nearest Stat., C'as- beno. Alb. d' Italia, near the town Stat. Europa, large, with fine courtyard ; Gaffe Siberia. At the Madonna del Monte, Alb. del Riposo, good ; fine air and view. Cas'iglione d'Olona is wortli a visit from Varese. Varone Torrent, 107. Varkoxe, 218. Vassena, 108. Vauzal, Caxtixe de la, 42. Vedana, 336. Vedaxo, 83. Vegra, 197. Velleia, 437, 438. Vexaria Reale, 33. Venasca, 47. Vexegoxo Castiglioxe, 83. Vexezia Sritze, 102. VENICE, 270. At the exit from the Bail- way Station (B. 2), porters and. commisaionnaires await the traveller's arrival. Gon- dola to the hotel, 1 fr. Each piece of luggage not carried in the hand, 15 c. Omnibus- gondola, not recommended. Steamers from the Scalzi Church, on the 1. of the iron bridge, to any stopping-place (see below), 10 c, 15 on Sun- days and fete days. Hand luggage only taken. Hotels : ff. de I'Eurqpe, Pala/.zo Giustiniani, on the Grand Canal (2, D. 5), good situation, fine view. Rooms from 3 Ir. No pension. JJa- nieli's Hotel Royal,Jliva. degli Schiavoni ( 1 , C. 6), goud situ- ation, fine view. Rooms from 4 fr. Plain breakfast, 2 fr. Luncheon, 4 tr. Pen- sion for room, two meals and service, 10 fr. a day. The same proprietors have the H. Beau Rivage, a few doors further on, quieter. *Grand Hotel, Palazzo Ferro, Grand Canal (3, D. 4). Excellent situation, charges high. Rooms from 4 fr. Pension, without wine and candles, 13 fr. *H. de la Grande Bretagne, with a small gar- den on the Grand Canal ; comfortable. Pen.-ijn, 10 to 12 fr., without wine or candle. *H. Roma (Pension Suisse), on the Grand Canal (9, C. 4, 5), clean and good, moderate charges. Bed- rooms from 3 fr. Pension, 9 to 12 fr., without wine. *H. Victoria (7, C. 5) not on the Grand Canal. Rooms from 3 fr. Pension, 10 fr. Comfortable, well managed. Much frequented by Ameri- 538 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. cans antl Cook's tourists. //. d'Anr/lelerre, Riva ilegli Schiavoni (10, C. 6), small but Cdiufortable. Rooms from 2i fr. Pension, 9 fr. II. d'ltalie (4, D. 5), Grand Canal and Piazza di S. Moise. Table -d'hote, 4^ fr. with wine. Luncheon, 3 fr. Rooms from 2i fr. Pension, 9 to 10 fr. Lima (5, D. 5), close to the Piazza di S. Marco. Well managed. Frequented by Germans. Table-d'hote, 4 fr. without wine. Luncheon, 2^ fr. Rooms, 2 to 3 fr. Pension, 9 fr. Citta di Monaco (6, D. 5). Table-d hute, 4 fr. with- out wine. Rooms on the G rand Canal 3 to 4 fr. Pen- sion, 9 fr. ; on the Grand Canal, 10 fr. No public sitting-room. Bellevue and San Marco, both in the Piazza, cheap and tolerable. Cavalletto, pension, 7 fr. without wine. //. Milan et Pension Anglaise, on grand canal, opp site the Church of Sta. Maria della Salute, pension from 7 to 10 fr. Private Apartments may be obuiined for about 40 or 50 fr. a month. Some of the best are on the Eica deyli Schiavoni. Enquire at On- gania's library. Caf^s : Florian, S. side of the Piazza San Marco, has long enjoyed a European reputation, and is good, but dear. Galignani and some French newspapers may be seen there. Svizzero, also good; N. side. Cafe degli Sjjecchi. Quadri, with ♦Restaurant on the 1st fl(jor. Giardinetto, on the Canal, in front of the Palazzo Reale, only in summer. Orientale, on the Riva degli Schiavoni, cheaper, frequented by Italians. Caffe ddla Borsa, at the landing-place of the Piazza S. Marco, recently opened. Restaurants: Quadri (see above); * Bauer Griinwald, opposite S. Moise. 2nd class, with good Vene- tian cookery, and excellent wines: — San GaVo, Campo S. Gallo, N. of the Piazza. Cavalletto, pood white wine (Conegliano bianco). Yapore, near the Ponte Barett(M-i in the Mer- ceria. Capello Kero, behind tlje clock. Post Office (C. 5) : Open 8 A.M. to 9 P.M. Letters for England and France are despatched twice a day. Telegraph Office, 1260 Rocca di Piazza, outside the Piazza 8. Marco, on the W. Gondolas : Tariff within the city limits (Circon- dari't), which includes all the fc ri-ies, and the islands of S. Seryolo, S. Clemente, S. Lazzaro, S. Giorgio in Alga, S. Secondo, S. Angelo della Polvere, La Grazia, Lido, San Michele di Murano (cemetery), and Murano : for 1 to 4 persons, with one boatman, 1 fr. for the first hour, and 50 c. for every suc- ceeding one ; over 4 hrs. i the tariff extra ; for the day of 10 consecutive hrs. 5 fr. ; d/mUe these fares with tvw rowers ; if a second rower tries to get engaged when unnecessary, the words, " basta uno " will dismiss him ; beyond the city limits, two oars at least compulsory, and the tariff augmented by 10 c. per hour for each oar. An agreement must be made for distances not contem- plated by the tariff. By the day, with one man, 5 fr., with two, 8 fi-., if a bargain be made, with a trifling buonamano. All gondoliers are obliged to carry the Police tariff, •which thej' must exhibit ii required, and a lantern at night is also compulsory. Complaints for misbehaviour or overcharge may be made to the Guardie Municipali, or at the ofiice of the Muni- cipality, Pal. Loredano, Grand Canal. Sniall Steamers, ' Vapo- retti,' ply every ] 2 or 1 5 min. on the Grand Canal between the railway station and the public gardens, stopping fre- quently. Fare, 10 centesimi, for the whole distance or anj' part of it. Also every i hr. to Murano, from the Fonda- mente Nuove (B. 5), calling at the Campo S.mto (S. Micheie). Fare, 10 c. to either place, 15 c. on Sun- days and holidays. Ferries {Traghetti) : At many points on the Grand Canal ferries to the opposite bank have been established (fare 5 c). On calling out " Traghetto,"' a ferryman responds. There are also ferries bet ween the Molo and S. Giorgio Maggiore, fare, 15c.; between the Molo and the Giudecca, 30 c. ; be- tween the IMolo and the Giardini I'ubblici, 50 c, and from the Molo to ihe Steam- boat, on arrival or departure, each person 20 c. ; between the Foiidamente Nuove and Murano, 30 c. The fares are doubled at night. Steamer to Trieste (Aus- trian Lloyd), Tues., Thurs., and Sat., every night at 11 or 12 ; average passage 7^ hrs. in the best boats. Fares 15 fr. and 12^ fr. The hrs. vary with the season ; but they can be ascertained at the ofiice of the companies. Italian Steamer every Sun. at 6 a.m., and A\'ed. at 4 P.M., going on thence to Ancona and ahmg the coast to Palermo and Genoa, For Chioggia, in 2i hrs., at 8 and 2 from Nov. to Feb. 8, 11, and 3 from ^lar. to Oct., returning at 7 and 2.30, or 7, 11, and 3.30. Fare 2 fr. Circular tickets, Ve- nice, Chioggia, Rovigo, Pa- dua, Venice, good for 10 days, 1st. class 15 fr., 2nd class 11 fr. 10 c. A very enjoyable excursion. The yavigazione Italiana. Company's steamers leave for Ancona and Brindisi every Sunday at 4 p.m. There are steamers of the Navigazione Italiana Com- pany which go to Con- stantinople, touching at various places (see the printed advertisement). A steamer once a month to Liverjiool — Burns and Mclver's line — fare £21, voyage about 15 days. Agent, Pardo Brothers, Fon- damenta Barbarigo. There are also regular lines of steamers to London, Glasgow, and Amsterdam, but chiefly for merchandise. American Consulate : Ponte delle Ballotte, San Luca. English Vice-Consulate Traghetto San Felice, on the Grand Canal. English Church : In the Campo S. Mo, beyond the iron bridge ; Service on Sun. at 10.30 and 3 p.m. Presbyterian Church : Service at llj- on Sun., INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 539 Sottoportico del Gavalletto, Piazza S. Marco. English - speaking Con- fessor, Don Marino Tom- maseo, S. Gallo. High Mass at SL 'Mark's on Sun. at 11. Greek Service, at S. Giorgio dei Greci, on Sun. at 10. Armenian Ser- vice, in the Calle dei Fabbri, at 1 0^ on Sundays. Chiesa Valdese : Ponte Cavagnis, S. M. Formosa. Bankers : -S'. A. Blumen- thal and Co., 3945 Calle del Traghetto S. Benedetto ; Jesuruni Bi-os. and Co., Canipo SS. Filippo Giacomo 4292. Money Changers : Several just outside the Piazza S. ilarco towards S. :Moise. Fiorentini, 1239 Bocca di Piazza, opposite the Tele- graph Office, can be recom- mended. Physicians : English doc- tor, Dr. Erinest van Someren, Palazo Balli Valier, Sta Maria del Giglio ; (speaking English) Dr. G. de Angelo, S. Salvatore Calle di Mezzo 4960; Dr. Cini, Campo S. Toma, keeps a Dispensary. Surgeons : Prof. Vigna ; Dr. Venitr. Dentist : St'-rnfeld, No. 4085 Calle Cavalli, S. Luca, to be recommended. Teachers of Italian, French, and English: The Misses Holas, S. Gallo, Sutto Portico, Zorzi, No. 1073 ; La Signora Rta Foresti, No. 4161 Riva Schiavoni. Apothecaries : Pisanelli, Campo S. Polo. Zampironi, Salizzada, S. Moise, 1494, sells pas-tiLes {Fidihus') for driving away mosquitoes. Sea Baths : Venice is now much frequented on account of the bathing on the Lido (see below), to which a steamer starts every i hr. (30 c.) in July, August, and September. 'Tramway in 5 min. across the narrow strip of land the Bathing Establishment, with good restaurant, a large cafe, read- ing and biillard rooms, and a pretty walk along the shore. There are floating baths moored opposite the Riva degli Schiavoni (1 fr.). Ferry across from the Riva, 5 c. Guides : 5 lire a day. They are now formed into a licensed society, but are quite unnecessary, and in- directly lead to additional expense. Sacristan at the churches, 20 to 50 c. Caution. — Travellers should insist upon hting taken to the Shops, tfcc, where they wish to go, and should be careful not to be imposed upon by, or accept the recommendations of, valets de place, gondoliers, and hotel servants, some of wlwm are in the pay of dishonest persoiis. Those guides only should be em- ployed who can show a cer- tificate of the Societa Mutuo Soccorso ed Imremento; with the sign of two hayids clasped together. Travellers are also cautioned not to pay for articles purchased until they have them in their possession. Shops : The best are in the Piazza, in the Merceria and Frezzaria, and in the wide lane running W. of S. Jloise. N.B.— Many of the shop- keepers will take two-thirds or even less than the sum originally asked. Pi ices are always highest in the Piazza of S. Mark. Venetian Curiosities and Objects of Art : Guggen- heim, Canal Grande ; Puc- c/ieiii.PalazzoGarzoni, Canal Grande; and Marcato, Casa della Vida ; Moise Rietti, Palazzo Guistinian (one of the best, with reasonable prices). Jewellers : Messiaglia, probably the best, under the Procuratie Vecchie ; Pal- lotti, 26 Merceria d<:-ir Orologio. Podio, S. Moise. Venetian Glass : The Ve- nice and Murano Glass and Mosaic Company, Limited (an English joint - str ck Company), are the most celebrated manufacturers of blown glass, smalt or opaque glass ornaments, mosaics, &c. The show-rooms (opi ii from 9 to 6) are in the Campo S. Yio, N. of tl e Accademia (D. 3, 4); and they have a shop also nnd^ r the' Procuratie Nuove. Cor- respondents in London, 30 St. James's Street. The furnaces are at Murano ; an order, to be obtained at the establishment, required for visiting them. Testolini, Piazza S. Marco. Booksellers : *Ongania (lute MUnster), Piazza S. Marco, Procuratie Nuove, 72-74. Gui.e-books, maps, and circulating library for books (1 fr. a week, 3 fr. a month), and music (5 fr. a month). He has a collection of books relating to Venice, of which a catalogue can be procured : also of ancient Venetian prints. Those who desire a mere detailed ac- count of V< nice are referred to the 'Guida Artistica e Storica di Venezia e delle Isole circonvicine ' (1881) price 5 fr., and the ' Curio- sita Veneziane ovvcroorigini df lie denominazioni Stradali di Venezia,' by TaStini, a storehouse of information about Venice (1882-7), pub- lished by Ongania. Giov. Zaghis, Via 22 iMarzo. Horatio Brown's ' History of Venice,' published 1893, is recommended. Library : Libreria Inter- nazionale S. Rosen and Co. Artists' Materials : Bia- sutti, close to the Academy, sells English cclours and other materials; Aickelin, Ponte delle Ostregne. Copyist : Luigi Desideri, 4933 S. Catarina, good. Rare Old Books (a very large Collection) : Leo Olsch- fcCsiS Riva del Vin, near the Rialto; well worth a visit. Marbles : Pietro Bion- detti, Campo S. Vio. Bronzes and Metal Work : Michele, Piazza S. Marco. Wood Carving : Biraghi, near the Church of S. Giobbe. Photographs : Naya, Pi- azza S. Marco, 77 bis ; Tian- elli (for portraits), near S. Zaccaria. Music : Brocca, Merceria, S. Giuliano. Gloves : Fulici, Merceria deir Orologio, 291; Alia Citta di Pietroburgo, 138 Procuratie Vecchie. Silks and Woollen Articles : Trapolin, Campo S. \'i '. Iropeani, Campo 540 INDEX AND DIRECrORY. S. Moise, 1401; Conttntn Maasa, shop under the clock in the square of St. Mark ; yicoletti, Krezzerie. Lace: Jes«7-i(?H,S.Filippo e Giaconio, agtiit for the Burauo Co., laigest and best Block. VENTIMIGLIA. 478, 51. *BufTet. II. de I' Europe; H. Suisse. Ventosa, 451, 468. Verbanus (Lake), 112. VERCELLI. 27, 62, 67. Alb. Leone d'Oro ; Alb. Ire Re. Verde Torkext, 475. Veudello, 107. Verdi di Susa Makble, 6. Vergatello Torkent, 469. Vergato, 469. Vergiate, 81. Verinanagna River, 49. VERNANTE. 50. iJil. to yice every morn- iug in 15 hrs., 12 fr. Vermazza, 506. VERONA, 222, 180, 245, 466. Here are two Stations — Forta Vegcovo (F. 9), fur Venice and ]Mil.in ; Forta yuova (G. 2), for Mantua or the Tyrol. lOiuu. from eitlier Stat, to the Hotel, 1 fr. or less. Cab, 1 fr. Tramway from Stat, to Stat., lu c. Good Buffet at Porta Vescovo ; Cafl'e at Porta Kuova. Hotels : Grand IT. de Londres (a, C. 6), the best, good cuisine, expensive. Colomba d' Oro (b, D. 4), fairly good and moderate. San Lorenzo (C. 4), 2nd class, Avitli good food and \sine, and a beautiful view over the river. Aquila JSera, between the Via Kuova and the Corso (C. 5), commercial. Restaurant: ReginaMar- gherita, near the I'iazza Vittoria Enianuele, outside the Portoue. Cafes : Vittorio Eman- uele, in the Piazza (D. 4), dear. Dante, in the Piazza dei Signori (C. 6). Cab : 75 c. the drive, li fr. the hr. Protestant Service on Sundays in the Via Duv^mo. Bookseller : Drucker, 10 Via Cairoli, near the Post Office ; i>liotogiaphs and general information. Sculptor : Francesco Pe- grassi, fov marble carving applied to chimnej'-])i Every 14 days video and Buenos x\yres ) | PABIS: 1, RUE VIGNON. ^^^,^^^ , MARSEILLES: 16, RTJE CANNEBIERE. OFFICES \ BORDEAUX: 20, ALL:feES d'ORLEANS- LONDON: 97, CANNON STREET, E.G. BRAZIL and RIVER PLATE. 189' MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. X^orth ©erman Eloyd, B I^ E IVl E N^ . IMPERIAL & UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS. The Company is its own Insurer. BREMEN AND NEW YORK, Bv maKnificent Express Steamers, SOUTHAMPTON Wednesdays BREMEN to NEW YORK via Steamere. From NEW YORK Plymouth homewards instead of NEW YORK via leaving BREMEN Tuesdays and Saturdays, calling at and Mondays for Passengers and Mails; also from CHERBOURG on alternate Saturdays by Fast Express Tuesdays and Thursdays. (Tuesday Steamers call at at Southampton, from April to October.) Also from CHERBOURG on alternate Saturdays. GERMAN MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. Express Steamers between New York, Gibraltar, Algiers, Naples and Genoa. MONTHLY MAIL & PASSENGER SERVICES TO AND .A. XT £s rr xs, .A. X. X ^^^ xy- x> o xc rr Via Southamiytoyi, Genoa, Nnjyles, Suez Canal, and Colombo, bij Steamers of o,300 to lO,00O tons r-egister. ROUND THE WORLD TOURS AT LOWEST RATES, STARTING EAST OR WEST. RIVER PLATE DIRECT From Bremen, calling at Aktwekp and Southampton', by specialty designed new Passenger Steamers, " Pfalz " and " Mark." " Wjllehad" (twin screw), and ""Wittekind " (twin screw), taking Passengers for Lis Palmas (Grand Canary.) Handbooks and full particulars will be furnished upon application to the Company in Bremen, or to the undermentioned Agents : — AGENTS IN LONDON -.-KELLER, WALLIS, & CO., 32. CocksDur Street, Charing Cross, West End ; 2, King William Street, City. Phillipps and Graves, Botolph House, Eastcheap, E.C. Agents in Southampton Keller, Wallis. and Co. Paris North German Lloyd Co., 2 bis, Rue Scribe. New "York Oelrichs and Co., 2, Bowliui^ Green. Baltimore A. Schumacher and Co. Antwerp H. Albert de Bart and Co. Lisbon Bernhard Lf.uschner. Naples AsELMEYER, Pfister and Co. Genoa Leupold Fratelli. b2 4 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Belfast and Hortliern Counties Railway SUMMER EXCURSIONS IN NORTH O F IRELAND. Antrim Coast Circular Tour.— The most varied and beantiful tonr in Ireland. Rail: Tellast to LHine ami Porlrush to Belfast (9i; miles). Coach : Larne to Giant's Causeway (05 n)ile>^), alons tic lam^ns CmiM Edad, nfrr>uiing infii ite variety of srene and interest. Electric Tramvav: Giant's (HusewHy to I'oitrn.-h (7 miles'). First Cla^s, 243. ; Sec< nd CIrss, 20s. Portrush and Giant's Cause\iray.— i hr< ngij tickets is.'-ned from the principal places in Ent,-lrtnd ami .s.-otland, aid Ir m liuliliii and other stations on the Great Northern (Ireland) Railway. l-;xcur.«ion tickets issned every day fiom Belfast. Past Trains between Belfast and Portrush. Electric Tmmway: Portrui-h and Giant's Causeway. Glenariff.— The loveliest of the numerous and remarkable Glens for wh'ch the coui.ty Antrim is fumed. Daily excursions fn m Belfa.-oneKal via Stral^ane and Stiaiiorlar and Ballysl annon or Bundoran to Bera.st. First Class, 40«. 6d. ; Second Cla=s, 30s. 6d. ; Third Class 22s. 9d. Many other Excursions of Interest can be made from Bel'ast, for particulars of which apply to the undersigned. THE NORTHERN COUNTIES RAILWAY HOTEL, PORTRUSH (GIANT'S CAUSEWAY). Under Railway Management. Afbrds First-class Accommodation to Tourists visitincr tt e Giant's Cause- way, as well as Fumilies and Genthmen vrishing to reside at the Seaside. Grand Dining-room, Drawing, Ke.iiling, Smoke and Billiard Roon-.s on the Ground Floor. Upwards of 12" Bedroom-. Hot and Cold Sta- WMter Bath Establishment. Lawn Tennis Courts. Best Golf Links in the dm. try. Hotel well situated, and commands splendid view ol sea and coast. 'Bus attends all Trains, tor further information, apply to Hotel Manager, Pobtbush. THE SHORTEST SEA PASSAGE BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Is via LARNE and STKAXRAER. D^ ily (Sirndays exceptt-d), and Dayli^.'! t Sailinps, by the new Fast Mail Steamers, " Pnrxeas May " or " Princess Victoria." Two Services (Morning aid Eien'ing) each way every Week-day fn m 1st Jime till SOtb Sejitember. Sea passage, 80 minutes; poit to port, 2 hours. Trains run alongside B'eamer at Stranraer and Larne. Through bookings frc m all the principal p'aces in England an Scotland to the North of Ireland. For full iarti EXPRESS SERVICE. '-'tjff The i^.ndernoted magnificent Steamrrs, p mong the fastest afloat, with unsurpasFed Passenger accommodation, and fitted througliout witd the Electric Ligbt, are appoiLted to sail regularly between SOUTHAMPTON, CHEEBOURa, AND NEW YOEK, FXJRST BISMAECK (twin screw) - - 9,000 tons 13,500 h.p. NORMANNIA „ - - 9,C00 „ 13,500 „ AUGUSTA VICTORIA „ - - 8,250 „ 13,000 „ COLUMBIA „ - - 8,000 „ 12,500 „ PASSENGERS ARE CONVEYED from London (Waterloo Station) BY SPECIAL TRAIN on day of sailing TO SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS, where arrangements are made for thf ir immediate * mbarkation with comfort and despatch ; the pESsengers and their luggage being conveyed from London and transferred free of charge. THESE STEAMERS, on the passage from New Vork, LEAVE PLVMOUTH on THURSDAYS, taking passengers for CHERBOURG and HAMBURG. For Fares and for detailed information, apply to sMiT'ii, »xjrsfr>ius *& co., as agents, 22, CocKSPtJR St., Charikq Cross, S.W., and 158, Leadknhall St., E.G., LONDON ; 1, Canute Road, SOUTHAMPTON; 11, Millbay Road, PLYMOUTH. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 BELGIAN STATE RAILWAY AND MAIL STEAM PACKET SERVICE. Via DOVER and OSTEND. The magnificsnt new Steamer's Bapide, Leopold II, Marie Htnriette, Prin^icss Henriette, Princess Josephine, La Flandre, Prince Albert, and Ville de Douvres are uovv running, and a new Mail Steamer, the Princess Clementine, will be ready in June. Sea passage three hourd. Three departures daily (Sunday included) between Dover and Ostend : — From Dover Admiralty Pier to Ostend, 12 Onoon 8 p.m. 11 p.m. „ Ostend Quay Station to Dover, 4 53 a.m. 10 50 a.m. 10 55 p.m. immediately on arrival of Mail and Boat Express Trains in correspondence with the Steamers. Information, Time Books, and Through Tickets may be obtained as follows : — LONDON. D.N. Bridge, Ageut-General, Belgian Mail Pac-'et Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, E.G. West Ead Agency, 102, Shaftesbury Avenue, W. P. Dufrance, Belgian State liailway Office, 47, Cannon Street, E.G. (informatiun only). DOVER. Friend & Go., Northumberland House, StronJ Street, Belgian Railway and Mail Packet Office. ENGLAND Z CONTINENT Via Qiieenboro' and Flushing. TWICE DAILY IN BOTH DIRECTIONS. DAY AND NIGHT SERVICES. Neiv, large, fast PAI^DLE Mail Steamers. Great Acceleration of Service from ist May, 1897. Actual SEA Voyage by the Night Servica, 2| hours only. THROUGH CARRIAGES. DINIISTG CARS. Through Bjokings from and to Londou (Victoria, H )lb u'li Viadujt, St. Paul's, and Heme Hill Stations) to and from the principal Stations on tue Continent. Apply for Time Tables to the Zeeland Steamship Company's London Office, 44a, Fore Street, E.G., where Circular Tickets may be ob- tained Within three days' notice. AND SCOTLAND for CONNEMARA, or COMBINED TOUR including KFLLARNEY. B MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, flDiMan& (Brcat Mcetcrn IRailwa? of 3relan& CONNEMARA, ACHILL, AND WEST OF IRELAND. CIRC17I.AR TOURS In. in 1)IT.1>1N U, TOURIST TICKETS '''^{FsV.KTS in Hh-'wF^T O f" U J^P V'\ \ iV"^^ ^'J""™ ^^^ PRINCIPAL TOWNS in EN(;LAND grjf" KKiircKli Parks K)|{ 1'aktiks ok Twd Folk I'a.smcxgkks. Extra Coupons issued for extended Tours fr,.... DiiUin. Iroadstoue Terminus, lo Ihe North and South ^"""^ "' "'« Offi^'^' "/ "" Haiivai/ und >)re, and Leenane. Steamers ply on Galway Bay. The M. G. W. R. Co.'s 6d. Illustrated Handbook to the West of Ireland contains 16 full-paged toned Lithographs and numerous Woodcuts. ApplitaWon for Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, and information as to Ti'ares, Routes, Hotels, ifcc, may be made at the Irish Tourist Office, 2, Charing Cross, London, or to the Company's Aujents— Mr. J. Hoey, 60, Castle Street, Liverpool, and 3lr. .T. F. Ritson, 178, Buchanan Street, (;iasgow, or to the undersigned, Jiroadstone Station, Dublin. JOSEPH TATLOAV, Manager. ABERDEEN. IlVi:i>ERIiLL HOTEt-. Personally patronise^i by their Royal Highnesses th^ Duke of Edinburgh the Duke of Couiiaught, the late Dnke of Albany. Princess Beatrice, Prince ai'd Princess Christian, the King of the Belgians, Prince Fred* rick William of Pnissia, and other distinguishe^0]KrX3. BATHS IN THE HOTEL. ARLES-SUR-RHONE (France). GRAND HOTEL DU FORUM. t'lRST-CLASS, the largest in the town. Full South. Entirely renewed and considerably- enlarged. Bath Room. Saloons. Mnoking Room. Antique Annexe, with a tower giving a s-plendid view of the country (E,hone and Camargue). Table d'Hote. Moderate charges. Knglish sp< ken. Omnibus at the Station. BADE N-BA DEN Best Position in Baden-Baden. Proprietor, Mr. FEANZ GEOSHOLZ. THIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-Class Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade opposite the new General Post Office, nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths and Augusta Baths; it commands the most charming views, and is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally fre- quented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect, very moderate charges. Table d'Hote at 1 and 6 o'clock. Englisii and other Journals. Beautiful airy Diniug-Kooms, Ladies' Drawing-Boom, Reading & Smoking- Rooms. Pension in the early & latter part of the season. Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. : anilary An angements perfect. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. HIGHLY KEPUTED and well patronised First Class FAMILY HOTKL, combining everj' modem comfort with moderate charges. Beautiful situation in the most elegant part of Baden, at the entrance of the Lichtenthftl Allee, facing Promenade, Theatre, and Conversation House. Lift. Baths. I,arge Garden, covered Kestaurant Teirace. Electric Light. Upen all the year. Arrangements (Winter Pension). New Proprietor, Adolptl OuringTCr, formerly Kurhaus, Kreuznach, and Mena Houa«. Cairo. Branch Houses — Hutel d' Anyltterre, Geneva; Hotel des Ambassadeurs, Menloue. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 5>^ siJ5 •J? ^t> ^jjVtTcv ^V"£^ t^^^ BADEN-BADEN Fir3t-Clas3 Hotel, next to Frederic and Empress Augusta Baths, with a Large Park. ^^^.^^ „^*% ^^^Z-^^''^ ALL THE YEAB. _^_ ^ — "^ Charges strictly moderate. T^** ^..^ — """^^ Moderate Pension for a Prolonged Stay. HYDRAULIC LIFTS IN BOTH HOUSES. Ele jtric Light throl-gholt. A. ROSSLER, Proprietor. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL AND BADHAUS ZAHRINGER HOF. ''I^HIS large FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is beautifully situated in -L midst 01 a large Park, near the Promenades, Terraces, &c. Mineral Baths, Sanitary Arrangements perfect ; Pension ; Moderate Prices. H. BAYER, WM. and E. GROSHOLZ. the Lift; AIX-LES-BAINS. GRAND HOTEL DU LOUVRE. Magnificent Sitnation, opposite the Gardens of the Casinos, near the Baths. Arrangements from 9 francs. Large Hall and Public Saloons. J^ift. Bath Room. Omnibus. English Landlady. BASLE. HOTEL BERNERHOF. Very quiet aud healtby situation, on the Promen- ade, two minutes Irom the Central Station. Comfortable House. Moderate Terms. Arrange- ment for a prolonged stay. A. GEILESKlRCHEy, Proprietor. BALE. HOTEL SCHVB^EIZERHOF. rpHlS beautitul FIR.ST-CL A.SS ESTABLISHMKNT is th > most important and the best X situated opposite the Central Station. It has been entirely refurnished and fitted with the most recent improvements. Vast covered Restaurant Terrace. Hydraulic Lift. Highly I ecommended. Terms moderate. Managed by the new Proprietor, E. J. GOETZINGER. THREE BASLE. KINGS HOTEL LARGEST First-class Family Hotel in Basle, in a quiet, healthy, and magnificent situation on the River Rhine, and in the centre of the town. Hydraulic Lifts. Electric Liglit. Omnibus in attendance at the German and Swiss Railway Station. Proorietor, C. fluck. BASLE. HOTEL HOFER. Opj)08ic,e the Centkal aud Alsaciax Station. COMFORTABLE HOVSE. MODER.\rE CHARGES. G. STOFFEL, Proprietor. BASLE. HOTEL SCHRIEDER ZUM DEUTSCHEN HOF. OPPOSITE the Baden Railway Station. Comfortable accommodation. Moderate Charges, m. ERNE, Proprietor. BAYEUX. HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG. Reputed the best. Situated in the centre of the town, close to the Cathedral and public buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr. 50 c. ; Dinner, 3 fr. Rooms from 2 fr. Table d'H6te. Restaurant a la Carte. Garden. BilUard-roora. Recreation Ground. Carriages for Excursions. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 BERLIN. GRAND HOTEL DE ROME, UNTEB DEN LINDEN, 39 (opposite the Boyal Palace). This reputed, first-class Hotel has the best situation m the Town, close to all the principal sights and Koyal Theatres. Splendid RESTAURANT, looking out over the " Linden." "CAFE." DRAWING-ROOM FOR LADIES. BATHS. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Xewspapers in all Languages. Omnibus at Stations. Moderate Chargei Proprietor : ADOLF MUHLING, Purveyor to the Imperial Court. Hotel KalserM, Hotel Continental, (RAILWAY STATION) WILHELMSPLATZ. FRIEDRICHSTRASSE. Hotel Kurhaus Uj HERINGSDORF, Lin deniann's Hotel] Baltic Sea. Season from 1st June to 30th September. WINES WHOLESALE AT HOTEL KAISERHOF, BERLIN. Fi]?s-t-Cla.ss laotels, and well known for their Modern Comforts. PROSPECTUS AND PRICE LIST FREE ON APPLICATION. GVSTAV ARRAS, General Manager. ^ei^liia. Hotel Couaygtiay. 'i 10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTLSER. May, BERLIN, W. HOTEL DER REIGHSHOF. y WILHBL3ISTliASSE 70a. '^^Wy NEAR THE UNTER DEN LINDEN and REICHSTAG. MOST ELEGANT HOME FOR FAMILIES. AIIRANGEMENTS MADE. INCLUSIVE TERMS. First-Class Hotel, and well known for its Modern Comforts. LEOPOLD SCHWARZ, Proprietor. BERNE. BERNERHOP HOTEL. This beautiful First-clas? Bstablishment is the most important and the best situated in the Town, at two minutes' w«lk from the Station, and close to the House of Parliament. It is surronnded by a beautiful garden with a large terrace, and commands a full view of the Alps. It3 puptrior interior arrangement", the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlours, Reading Saloon, etc., make it the most desirable residt-nce for English Families and single Travellers. Kednced Prices for protracted stays and in Winter sea-son. Lift. Electric Light. BIDEFORD. Central for the whole of North Devon, Westward Ho, Clovelly, Hartland, Bude, Ilfracombe, and Lynton. Stllt'luh^Prr^a^elROYAL HOTEL. I overlooking the River Station, ^^« Uh^^ I ^^^^ CLASS. I Torridge and Old Bridge. Superbly furnished and lofty rooms. Ventilation and Sanitary arrnngements perfect. Continental " Courtyard. Finest Stabling and Coach-house in Devonshire. Delightful Winter Resort, .'i. portion of the house built in 1688 bv an old merchant prince retains its magnificent oak staircase and 'Tiite of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of " Westward Ho." BIDEFORD. NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL. TiiK Oldest, Largest, and Pkincipal Hotel in the Town. l^ivate Sitting Rooms, with excellent views. The House is pleasantly situated in the centre of the Town, overlooking the river Torridge, and other Hotels. Has recently undergone ^stt■nsive additions and improvements. It is well-known for its superior accommodation combined with moderate charges. Proprietor of and Booking Office for the Clovelly and Bude Coaches in connection with The L. & S. W. Riilway. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiards, two tables'. H. ASCOTT, Proprietor. HOTEL BIARRITZ. YICTO RIA. Imprridl Grounds, Grande Plage. rr\H\i FIRST CLA>S HOTliL is replete with all the latest improvements of Comfort and Sanitary -•- Arrnngements. Fine situation opposite the British Club, in the Centre of the Best Promenades, and near Uolf Links. 160 Rooms unit Saloons facing the Sea and Full South. Lift. Electric Light. Calonfere. 1 awn Tennis. Renowned Cuisine. Can iages of all kinds. Moderate Charges. .F. F«l KXE.W. BLAIR ATHOLL. HOTEL, AD.KnXlN'O THE .<*TATI()N. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. BLAIK ATHOLL i.s imtcU the iieiirt'st aud most crutral poiut from w hich to visit Killiecrankie, the Queen's View, Loch Tummel, li^iiniooh, (ileu Tilt, Bracmar, the Falls of Hriiar. (iarry Tmii- inel, aud Fender; the Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. : ami it is the most couveuit-nt resting place for brcakine; the loua: raih^ ay journey to and from the North of Scotland. P. MACPOtJAI.P & SONS. Proprietors. Boppard-on-the-Rhine. HOTEL BELLE VUE SlJU'i:^ opposite the Steamer Landing Stnge. Three minutes from the Station. Only Hotel with Garden on the Rhine. Verandah. Beautifully enlarged by new construction. All the rooms with view of the Rhine. Baths in the Hotel. Pension. Proprietor, J. BREIT- BACH. Ladies' Room and Reading Room. Excel- lent cuisine and Wines. Speciality of Boppard Wine 1 .20 M. English, French, and Italian spoken. BopPARD-ON-THE- Rhine. Rhine Hotel. First-class Hotel. Sjjlendid situation opposite the Steamboat Pier. Large Terrace overlooking the Lhine : Garden ; excellent Cuisine and Wines ; Rhine Wines for sale : Pension trom 5 marks upwards. A. LECKE, Proj^ruUr. 1897. MURRAY'S HANI BOOK ADVERTISER. U GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS. Highly recommended to Strangers. VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D'HOTE AND PRIVATE DINNERS. Apartments for Families. Close to the Castle of Blois. Comfortable Caxriages for visiting Chambord and the Environs. Moderate Charges. BATHS in the Hotel. Pension during Winter. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN. BOULOGNE -SUR-MER. CHRISTOL'S HOTEL AND HOTEL BRISTOL. f" X xs. s "xr - cs Xa -A. s s xxorrxsx.. Centrally and Well Situated. Highly recommended for Families and Gentlemen. Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. HOTEL I>£:S BAINS. Mr. L. WALLET, Proprietor. t?IRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Fort, facing the Railway Station and Steamere. Near the Post Office and Casino. Hot and Cold Sea Baths in the House. Ad- vantaepous arrange ments made for a stay LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS (France). HOTEL DES ILES BRITA.NNIQUES. CLAUDIUS DONNEAUD, Proprietor. Firxt-Class Establishment. Near the Baths. Best Sanitary Arrangements. Tlie only Hotel vritlx a Ziift. ELECTRIC liiaHT. TELEPHONE. BRUNSWICK. HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS. PROMINENT Central Location, opposite the Dome and the Castle Dankwarderode, near the Residential Palace and the Theatre. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Newly built, openly situated on three sides, Fireproof. EVERY MODERN COMFORT, MODERATE TERMS. BOBERT SCHKADER. 12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BRUNNEN (Lake of Lucerne). .. HOTEL AND PENSION WALDSTATTERHOF {JIOTKL JUES O I AT RE CINTOXSJ. Finest Tositioii ou the Lak-. First-Class Hot.-l. 250 Beds. Large Gardens. Lawn Tennis and Cruquet Grounds. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL ROOMS. BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL, GERNAY. Close to the Railway Station lor Osteud, Germany, Holland, Antwerp and Spa, form- ing tbe Corner of the Botilevards Botanique et du Nord. Moderate charges. Baths in the Hotel Telephone. BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS, RUE NEUVE 48 and BOULEVARD DU NORD 9. FI1{.^.x^.A.x33i;s;. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON RIGH GROUNDS, NEXT ST. PAUL'S CHURCH. Mag"nifieent Gardens. Lift. Tennis. Tram-Omnibus be- longing" to the Hotel to and from Town. Moderate charges. CH. STAEHLE, formerly Proprietor of the Thuuerhot, Thun. 1897. MQRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81. Situated in tlie Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of tlie best Society. 100 ELEGANTLY FURNISHED & COMFORTABLE BED ROOMS & SITTING ROOMS. BBEAKFASTS A LA CABTE. TABLE D'HOTE BEEAKPASTS AT 3 PSAl^OS. SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES. English and Spanish Spoken* L. MANGEL, Proprietor. CARLSBAD. ANGER'S HOTEL (Branch, RHEIN HOTEL). These two first-class Hotels ofter special comfort to English and American Travellers, who will find them most desirable residences. Charge moderate. Deservedly recommended. English and American Newspapers. Baths, Carriages, Omnibus, Hydraulic Lift, Electric Light. Mr. and Mrs. Anger speak English. CARLSBAD. ROSCHER'S HOTEL. '' Goldener Schild d Zwei deutsche Monarchen." T^IEST-CLASS HOTEL in tlie most beautiful location of -^ the town. 200 rooms and saloons, Concert-Garden, Large Prome- nade Gaidtn. Remarkable Dining Saloons with large Glass Verandah. Coffee Saloon with Newspapers in all languages. Concert of the Coucert- Eand twice a week. Baths, Carriages, Omnibus, Electric Light, Lift, Telephone. Raihcay Ticket Office end Hoyal Bavarian Custom Revision in the House. F. ROSCHER, Hotelier. 14 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CARLSBAD. GRAND HOTEL PUPP. XpiRST-CLASS HOTEL, recently built and splendidly -■- furnished, situated in the best part of Carlsbad, opposite the new baths and close to the Springs. Much frequented by English and American visitors. Unrivalled Dining, Beading, Smoking and Music Rooms. Electric Lighting, Baths, Otis Lift. Concerts daily in the beautiful Park belonging to the Hotel. Telegraphic Address: PUPP, CARLSBAD. CARLSBAD. HOTEL BRISTOL FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best location, close to Springs an.l Batlis. Standing in its own grounds. MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICANS. Dining, Smoking and Reading Rooms. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATHS. Telegrams :— "Bristol, Caelsbad." CANARY ISLANDS. SANTA CATALINA HOTEL, LAS PALMAH. Facing the Sea. Surrounded by its oAvn beautiful gardens. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Private Sitting Rooms and complete Suites of Apartments. Resident English Physician and Nurse. Near English Church, Golf Links, Tennis, &c. Address— THE CANARY ISLANDS C'OIMPANY, Limited, 1, Laurence Pountney Ilill, London, E.C. CHAMONIX. GRAND HOTEL COUTTET. First-Cl 1S.S and Most Comfortable Hotel. Finely situated in a large and shady garden with a splendid \-iew of Mont Blanc. Highly recommended to English Families for its superiur accommodation, combined with very moderate term^. Bath. Open all the F. COUTTET FILS, Proprietor. CHAMONIX. HOTEL ROYAL and DE SAUSSURE. First-Cla-ss English Family Hotel. Delightfully situated with a Large Shady Park an; (xardeu in full view of .Mont Blauc. ^Moderate Terms. y.- £XXER, Proprietor. During Winter. Cyrnos Palace Hotel, Ajaccio (Corsica). CHAMONIX. HOTEL PENSION BEAU SITE. Excellent HOTEL, beautifully situated in a large Garden, facing Mont Blanc. Breakfast, If. 60c. Lunch, 2f. 60c. Dinner, 3f. 60c. Room, from If. 50c. Pension, from 6f. Baths, Dark Room, Smoking and Drawing Koom. J. CURRAL-COUTTET. Proprietor. CHAMONIX. HOTEL PENSION SUISSE. Facing Mont Blanc. Nev^ly Refurnished. Breakfast. 1.25f. Lunch, 2.50f. Dinner, 3.50f. Room, from 2f. Moderate Pension Terms. J. COUTTET, Proprietor. 189: MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 CHAMONIX. CROIX SI.A1VC0X: (FAOING MONT BLAKO.) Dejeuner, i 2o f.; Lunch. 2 -.50 f . ; Dinner, 3 f. Rooms from 2 f. Pension from 6 f. Well recom- Ck)ok'B Coupons Taken. Ed. SIMON D, Proprietor. CHAMONIX. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE First-Class Hotel. FACING MONT BLANC. BEST SITUATION. CHRISTIANIA. DAVID ANDERSEN, Jeweller, MANUFACTUKER of the noted Norwegian Spoons and Jewellery in Filigree, Transparent and Opaque Enamel, and Norwegian Spoons painted in Enamel. LARGEST STOCK IN NORWAY, AND LOWEST PRICES. CHRISTIANIA. Jewellers, KARL eJOHANS OA^r>E 17^. LARGE STOCK OF NATIONAL ORNAMENTS, SPOONS, TRANSPARENT AND OPAQUE ENAMEL. ANTIQUITIES IN SILVER. COLOGNE. Electric Light. HOTEL CONTINENTAL Hydraulic Baths in the Hotel. N' 'ESV HOUSE, 60 Rooms and Saloons, facing the South Portal of the Cathedral, the Central Railway Station, and the New Bridge, and near the Landing Place of the Rhine Steamers. Excellent Meals. Moderate Terms. Warmed by Steam. FRITZ OBERMEIT. Proprietor. COLOGNE. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. Opposite the Landing Place of the Rhine Saloon Steamers. View of the " Seven Mountains." Splendid Quiet Situation. Good Cuisine and Wines. H. KRONE, Proprietor. COLOGNE. XZO!]7X3X. 3DXSCXX. WELL-KNOWN FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. NEAR THE CENTRAL STATION AND CATHEDRAL. EVERV COMFORT. 16 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, COLOGNE. HOTEZi I>E IVXAYETTCE. JT'XCKLLENT HOTEL, near Itailway Station and '-' Calliedral, opposite the Theatre and General I'ostOmce. Centrally situated for all the Sights. < 'omft)rt and Economy. Combined Bedroom from '2s.upward3. Pension imlnding Table d'Hdte Dinner from 78. 6d. and upwards per day. Hotel Omnibng meets Trains and Steamers. J. H. PETERS. Proprietor. COMO. HOTEL U'lTALIlJ. Menag^o, Lake Como. (Same Proprietor as Grand Hotel). First-Class HoteL Best sitnated, on the border of the Lake, commanding a splendid view. Well recommended for its ct.mf. rt and moderate charges. A. T. MAKTiyELLI, Fr'prielor. COLOMBO, CEYLON. BRISTOL HOTEL. In proximity to the Landing Jetty, the Post and Telegraph Offices, Banks and Railway Stations. The only Hotel fitted throughout with l]lectric Light and Electric Bells. Renowned for its Cuisine, which is in charge of a French Chef. The Hotel combines the comfort of a Home with the luxury of a First-clas-s Hotel in Europe. Hott 1 Peon meets all the Steamers and takes charge of Luggage. TERMS MODERATE. Telegrams : " Bristol," Ceylon. P. WERNER, Manager. GONSTANTINOPLE-PERA. GRAND HOTEL D'ANCLETERRE (J.Ml^.sirie). GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. HOTEL BYZANCE. All these First-Class Hotels have a glorious view, and are replete with overy modern comfort, and are overlooking the British Embassy's Garden. Pminietors—lu. ADAMOPOULOS & N. APERGHIS. COPENHAGEN. HOTEL NATIONAL. Facing: the Central Railway Station and the Tivoli Garden ; 2 minutes from the Railway Station to Sweden and Norway. This First-class Hotel, with 150 splendid Rooms and Saloons, is very much frequented by the highest of English and American Travellers. Electric Light in every Room. Reading Room, Ladies' Parlour. Hot Baths. Post and Telegraph Office close to the Hotel. Excellent Table d'lrlote. Dining Room. Rooms from 2s. per day, service and light included. C. W. LORENZEN, Proprietor. COUTANCES. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. Refurnished with every comfort. Re- commended to Families. Moderate Prices. Omnibus meets all Trains. BRIENS, Proprietor. COUTANCES. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. FiKST-CLASs House. Best and most Comfortable. Only one with English Sani'ary Arrangements. LENOURRY, Proprietor. 1897 Mb'RKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 17 KOPENHAGEN. iS^^sg^^ KCPENHAGEN. HOTEL KdNIG ^f von DANEMARK. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, ^Vith 100 elegantly-furnished Rooms and Saloons from 2 kr. upwards. Preferred by the travelling public because of its central and open location, oeerlooking the King's Square. Jn the Hotel large newly-furnished only VIENXA. CAFE, wiih Restaurant and Con- fccu. 'net's Shop; in sumuiHr with tables and chairs in the open air. Large selection of "lerman, French and Etiglish Newspapers. German Waiters. Moderate Pricep. Electric Light. Lift. Table d'hote at 4 o'clock. Sample Rooms for travelling salesmen. Hotel Omnibus at the Railroad Depot. R. KLtTM, Proprietor. St. George's Grand Hotel. The 0}iUj First-Class Hotel. HONOURED AND FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FAMILIES. ROOMS FROM 3 FRANCS. PENSION FROM 10 FRANCS. LIGHT AXD ATTEXDAXCE INCLUDED. REDUCTION FOR A LONG STAY. PERFECT SANITARY FITTLNGS. DARK ROOM FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS. A. S. MAZZUCHY, Proprietor. Telegrams :-"SANGIORGIO, CORFU." GERMANY.] CREUZNACH-BATH . [RHINE. ROYAL HOTEL AND ENGLISCHER HOP. The largest and fineet Hotel, with every mod-rn coufoit, especially for English and American visitors. Very moderate charges. Lilt. Post aud Telegraph Office. ELECTRIC LIGHT. OTTO AESCHLIMANN, Manager. DIEPPE. Facing the Beach, close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ESTABLISHMENT AND ONE J- OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will hnd at this Establishment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accom- modation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Koom, with French and English Newspapers. The Retreshments, &c., are of the best quahty. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's aud other ""'''" ''^"^'- LAESONNEUX, Proprietor. ToMe d'Rote and Prirate Dinvevf. The only Hotel in Dieppe with a Lift. 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, HOTEL DE PUYS. About a Mile from Dieppe. THE MOST COMFORTABLE COUNTRY HOTEL IN FRANCE. rpHIS MAGNIFICENT HOTEL, charmiugly situated in J- the beautiful Valley of Puys, on the edge of the Sei, is furnished, fittel, and managed on the lines of an English Country Hous ■, and offers to Visit jrs a Luxurious Home in Summer or Winter. Modern Sanitation. Good Bath Rooms. Electric Light. Artesian Well. Telegrajjh Office, and English and French Billiards. The Hotel Omnibas usually meets the Paris trains aud cross- channel steamers, but to avoid disai^pointment Visitors are respectfully requested to give notice in advance. J. PELLETIER, Manager. HOTELDUJURA. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Nearest to the Station. Electric Light MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. "The general quality of Murray, thp scientific character of the information, the accuracy and interest of the historical par- ticulars, to .-ay nothing of the lowuess of the price, place his guides far ahead of any competitors."— Satukday Rkview. DINARD. F, GILBERT SMITH, Banker, House Agent; Tea, Wine, and Spirit Merchant. Full particulars of Furnished Houses to Let sent free on application. DRESDEN. HOTEL ALBERTSHOF DRESDEN, Telegraphic Address: ALBERTSHOF, DRESDEN. The NEWEST and Most Easliiouabli' Hotel in Dresden. NOTED FOR: its Special Attention to the Customs of English and American Visitors : its Cleanliness and Sanitary Arrangements ; its Elegance and Comfort ; its First-class French Cuisine and Choice Wines ; its Moderate Prices and No EXTRA CHARGES ; its Good Position near the Central Railway Station in the Best and Healthiest part of Dresden ; its Spacious Gardens with Daily Concerts in Summer. Electric Light Otis Lift. 15 Private Apartments witii Batli Rooms. N.B.— The celebrated Albertshof Baths, with Marble Swimming Hall, Turkish Baths, etc., are situated in the garden of the Establishment. 1897. MURRAY'S HA^DbOJK ADVERTISER. 19 DINANT-SUR-MEUSE. HOTEL DE LA TETE D'OR. ALEXIS DISIERE, Proprietor. r^IRST-CLASS, upon the GRAND PLACE. A Is to be recommended for its < comfort. Pension from 8 or 9 francs per day. DUSSELDORF. HOTEL ROYAL Electric Light. Lift. C. WENIGER, Proprietor. Lift. DRESDEN. Electric Light. BISMARCKPLATZ, 7, near the central station. SPLENDIDjsituation iu the English Quarter. Greatly patronised by English and American families. Every home comfort. Rooms from 2 marks, everything included. Pension arrangements. G. WENTZEL, Proprietor. DUBLIN Chartning situation, overlooking Stepht Green Park. Most Cejttral Position. Moderate Charges. ftL HOTEL. Telegraph Office and Telephone in Hotel. Electric Light. Hydraulic Passenger Elevator. EAUX BONNES. HOTEL DE FRANCE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, the best in the locality. Best situation in the healthiest and finest part of the town, facing the Park, where the band plays. Close to the Mineral Springs. English spoken. Salubrious situation. Good sanitary arrangements. H. T A VERNE, Proprietor. l^BINCE OF WALES &ndMBItB AID HOTEL AND BATHING- ESTABLISHMENT. (CHRISTIAN BAX.ZER.) First-Class Family Hotel. 90 Rooms. Best Situation (opposite the Kursaal). Own Mineral Spring. " Romerquelle " 44.5" C.=35.6' B,. 18 Bathing Rooms. Inhalatory. Large Garden. Heading and Music Saloon. Arrangements with Families. Table d'H6te. Illustrated Prospectus. CARL RUCKER, I'roprirtiir. ENCELBERG. THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ti. hiRh), near Lucerne. Season 15th May— 30th September. KURHAUS AND HOTEL SONNENBERG. THE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand Alpine scenery. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recommended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG, in the finest and healthiest situation facing the Titlls and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central place for sketching, botan- ising, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The ascent of the Tltlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths. Watersprlng 5° R. ; 200 Rooms ; Pension from £2 6s. a week upwards. Because of its so sheltered situation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Resident Enelish Physician. English Divine Service. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL & PENSION NATIONAL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL Electric Light. Bath Rooms. on every Floor 150 BEDS. Pension from Seven Francs a day and upwards. FRAU DR. MULLER, Proprietor. 2 2M MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. M^y, ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. KURHAU8 HOTEL ET PENSION TITUS. THIS First-Class Hotel, in the best situation of the valley, in the middle of an extensive garden, has been much enlarged and improved. 200 Beds. Lofty Dining Saloon. Large Saloon de Reunion, with Verandah. Smoking-Room. Reading-Room. Billiards, Salle de Musique. Lift. Electric Lighting in all Rooms. Baths in the Hotel. Lawn Tennis Ground. Good attendance, with Moderate Charges. English Chapel In the garden of the Hotel. Ed. CATTANI, Proprietor. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. WELL KNOWN HOTEL WITH GOOD ACCOMMODATiON, CONTAINING 100 BEDS. Conversation Saloon, Healing and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Baths. Peusioii : Oi to 8 frs. a day, everything included. Reduced prices in June and September. Frz. WYRSCH-CATTANI, Manager. EXETER, DEVONSHIRE, POPLE'S NEW LONDON HOTEL. Patronised by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales. ADJOINING Northernhay Park and near the Cathedral. Large covered Continental Courtyard. Table d'Hote. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs. POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. Aha Proprietor of the Globe Hotel, Newton Abbot, Devon. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. This First-Class Hotel, with a beautiful larae garden, is the nearest to the Station (on arriving turn to the ri^'ht), with every comfort and moderate charges. Electric Light. Central Steam Heating. IJft. Telephone No. 2924. Hot and Cold Baths. Rooms from 2 Marks upwards, Light and Attendance included. FRED. SCHMUTZ, Pkoprieior. (Formerly for many years Head Waiter at the Hotel de Paris, 8trasl)ourg, .\lsMfe ) FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. OPPOSITE THE Central Railway Station. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Lift. Electric Lig-ht. Caloriferes. K. FRANK, Proprietor. FRANZENSBAD. 106-108, SALZQUELLSTRASSE. NEWEST LARGE HOTEL and PENSION, wi h elegant Dining and Reading Rooms. O^vn Park with Lawn Tennis (ironnd. I'atronised by Members of ImperUl and Royal Families, and by tb(' Ari-tocracy. Under personal Management of the Proprietor, T. F. KOPP. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 ENGADINE, SWITZERLAND. Saint- Moritz-les-Bains, SEASON: 15th June— 16th September. This Balneo-Olimaterique Alpine Station (altitude 1,800 metres) is celebrated for its Mineral Springs, Mineral Water Baths, and all kinds of hydro-therapeutic appliances. Excellent Station for Secondary Treatment after having used the Waters of TARASP, CARLSBAD, &c. zx o rxr :es x< s : Karhaas, fleaesStahlbad, Vietom, da Iiae, Engadinefhof, Bellevue, Central. ALL THESE HOTELS ARE CLOSED IN WINTER. Tarasp Schuls Baths^ SEASON: 1st June~15th September. THIS SPRING IS THE RICHEST EXTANT IN SULPHATE OF SODA. Its Waters are far superior to those of either Carlsbad, Kissingen, Marienbad, or Vichy, owing* to the quantity of fixed substances and carbon which they contain. MINERAL WATER BATHS. ALPINE CLIMATE (ALTITUDE 1,200 METRES). Sole Agents for Sale of the Tarasp Mineral Waters : FOR GREAT BRITAIN AND COLONIES: R. DAVIS, 20, Maddox Street, Regent Street, LONDON, W, FOR THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA: WEBER & CO., 1«, Third Avenne, NEW YORK CITY. 22 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden). FREIBURG (IN Baden). Hotel Sommer zum Zaehringer Hof. First-class Hf)tcl. Ojiposite the Railway Station. Magnificent Situation. Lift, Electric Light, Baths. BADENWEILER (m Baden). Hotel Sommer zum Karlsruher Hof. iFormerly Hotel Karlsruhe.) First-elags House. Beautifully situated. Jlineral Water .Sprinps (Ein7,ell)ader.l SOMMER BROTHERS, Proprietors. FREUDENSTADT. (2,600 feet above sea.) BLACK FOREST HOTEL. RAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART, OFFENBURG, STRASBURG. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the mo>t healihy position on a charming hill, and surrounded by a very extensive and beautiful Park. 60 very comfortable Bed-rooms and Saloons, with 15 Balconies. Watfr and Milk cures. Elettricity. Massage. Pine- needle and Sole Baths. Sanitary arrangements perfect. BEST CENTRAL RESIDENCE for EXCURSIONS. Elegant Coaches and Landau Carriages at the Hotel. English Church Service in the Hotel. ELECTRIC LIGHT. MODERATE CHARGES. PENSION. EBNEST LUZ, Junior, Proprietor. GENEVA. ENGLISH & AMERICAN CHEMIST, GRAND PHARMACIE FZNCK, 26, Rue du Mont Blanc, and 2, Rue Pradier (near the Station). THE LEADING PHARMACY TN SWITZEhLAND. AH the latest English and American Specialities and Patents. Dispensing as at Home. Special Perfumerj- Salon and Rooms for Surgical Instruments. Indiaruhber Goods, &c., on the first floor. High-Class Chemist. English Assistants. HOTEL GENEVA. PENSION VICTORIA (FORMERLY HOTEL FLAEGEL). Finest situation, near the Englis-h Garden. Splendid view of the Lake and the Alps. Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Omnibus at the Station. Lift. Baths. CENTRAL HEATING- W. XIESS, Proprietor. FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden). HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Station, Post, and Telegraph Offices. Best Situation. Good Attendance. Motlerate Charges. Pension. GENEVA. HOTEL BRISTOL 10, KUE DU MUNT BLAXC, near English Church. Most comfortable family Hotel. Every modem convenience. New sanitary arrangements. Electric Lif-'ht in every room. Lift. Baths. Beading and Smok- infr IJonms. Xo extra charge for light and attendance. I'ENSION^ J. CUKTET-HUGON. ProprUt,.r. GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. Latest Sanitary Impr Furuislicd Koi.ins in Vltfiidanccand Klcrtric Hotel in (ipucva witli Cc jvcnients. 100 AVell- in Si to 4 francs. I.iiihr Included. Ouly 'teani Heating. I'ahK- d'llutc. 3 and 4 francs. Mine included. I'eusidii 7.10 francs. JJft. Batli Rooms. CH. SAILER, Proprietor. GENEVA. HOTEL PEKSIOKFLEISCHMAM Rond Point de Plainpalais. Near the Bastion Park. Fine Bituation. MODERATE CHARGES. Electric Light. Baths. GENOA. HOTEL DE LONDRES {OPPOSITE THE STEAMERS) ET PENSION ANGLAISE. The Nearest to the Central Station. First-lass. Full South, Moderate Prices. Lift. 1897. MUERArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 GRENOBLE. HOTEIj M:o]sr:NrET. THIS splendidly-situated First-Class Hotel, which is the largest in the Town, and enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has just been considerably enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apart- ments, large and small, combine elegance and comfort, and every attention has been paid to make this one of the best Provincial Hotels. Public and Private Drawing-rooms ; English and French Papers. Table d'Hote at 11 and 6. Private Dinners at any hour. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. The Omnibuses of the Hotel meet all Trains. Baths. Interpreters. VEUVE TRILL AT, Proprietress. First-Class Carriages can be had at the Hotel for Excursions to the Grande Chartreuse, XJriage, and all places of interest amongst the Alps of Dauphine, Every room lighted by Electricity. URIAGE-LES^BAINS. HOTEL K^ESTA.1TI«^^IXT M:OIVIVIt:T. Founded in 1846. English Visitors will find every comfort and luxury in this First-Class Establishment. Private Rooms for Families, Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Table d'Hote, 11 and 6. Carriages and Horses can be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades. THE HAGUE. I>AXJLEZ' HOTEL (slimixeo), the: h a g u ij . This First-Class Hotel, situated in the quietest quarter of the city, in the vicinity of the Opera, Museums, and Royal Park, cannot be too highly recommended for its modern accomno- dation. Otis Lift. Electric I^ight. Baths. Smoking and Reading Room Ret'taurant. Table d'ht'te Excellent Cuisine. International Telephone No. 440. Z3 HANOVER. O IK' tied in Januanj , 1804:. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with all the comforts of the splendid, modern First-Class Hotels. Situated in the centre of the Town, opposite the Railway Station. Heated hy Steam. Electric Light and Telephone in every room. Electric Lift. Beautiful Bath Rooms. Excellent Wines. Good Cuisine. Under the personal mauaaement of the Proprietor, FRAU CARZ< FXTZ. HARROGATE. "THE ORANBY." FIEST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facins^^ the Stray. Every accommodation for visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning free of charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. Tennis Court in the Grounds. ELEVATOR TO ALL FLOORS. STANVTNG FOB CYCLES. W. H. MILNEE, Proprietor. HAVRE. HOTEL CONTINENTAL First-Class Hotel in the finest sitnation in Havre, facing the Jetty. Large and small apartments. Table d'h6te. Restanrant h la carte. English Spoken. Telephone 226. bLOTJET, Propr,Wor. GMUNDEN. HOTEL AUSTRIA First-Class Hotel, with every modem com- fort. Splendid View and Shady TeiTace on the Lake. Lift. Under the personal management of the Proprietor, F. SCHECK . 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, HAVRE. HOTEL D'ANGLETBRRE, RUE DE PARIS, 124-126. EXCEEDINGLY well situated in the best quarter of the Town and recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Apart- ments for Families. Music and Conversation Saloons. Rooms from 2 to 5 francs. Restiiurant a la Carte. Table d'hote. Breakfast 2 fr. 50c. Dinners 3 frs. EXGLISH AND GERMAN SPOKEN. GKELL^, Proprietor, HEIDEN SWITZERLAND, Ct. Appenzell, 2700 feet above sea-level. Beautiful village, overlooking the lake of Constance. Exquisite health resort. Bracing Climate. FREIHOF&SCHWEIZERHOF FIRST- CLASS HOTELS. Extensive own grounds, phady park, wonderful view. Affor.^s every home comfort. First rate cuisine. Sanitary arrangements. Lawns fi)r tennis, croquet, howls. Dances. Casino with daily concerts. English service. Goats' Whey. Baths and Hydropathic Establishment. Electricity. Massage. Gymnastics. Milk from own farm. Terms moderate. Pension. Advantageous arrangements. Prospectus, illustrated. Season. May— October. Propr. ALTH ER R-S I M ON D. HILDESHEIM. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. Pirst- Class House, situated in the centre of the Town. BATHS IN THE HOUSE. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. CENTRAL HEATING APPARATUS. 50 Rooms and Saloons fitted up with every comfort of modern times. C. HEERPT. HOMBURG. HOTEILi I3E :e:USSi:E FIRST- CLASS HOTEL. One of the best in the Town. Commanding a fine view, with Dependance, "Villa Augusta," situated iu the extensive and shady garden of the Hotel. Best Situation, near the Mineral Springs, the Kursaal. and Tennis Grounds. Splendid Dining Room with covered Verandahs. Finest Restaurant. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. F. A. LAYDIG, Proprietor. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 HEIDELBERG. OTEL VICTORIA First-Class Hotel in every respect. Exceedingly well situated. Beautiful Verandah and large Garden at the back of the House. Advantageous arrangements ma'ie with families intending a longer stay. Hi ghly recommended. BATHS OF HOMBTJRG. Healthiest Position. Electric Light throughout. Lift. Bath? Excellent Shooting, free. r^irirl^^*!^^^ *^^__^i^^«=-***'*"°^ the Piirce of Wales. H.K.H. the Duke of Usual stay of H.! M ecklenhurg-Schwerin and the Grand Dukes of Russia. /rrBng-fmeiils mfide at reduced pi ires in .\piil. May, June, Seijt. and Oct. Proprietor. COXR. RITTER, Royal Purveyor. HOMBURG. SGHELLER'S HOTEL METROPOLE. Most Fashionable House. Lift. Terrace. Garden. Splendid new Dining Eoom. Electric Light. L. SCHELLER, Purveyor to H.R.H. the Grand Duke of Saxony Weimar and H.R.H. the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg Strelitz. HOMBURG. HOTEL ENGLISHER HOF. Xo Giand Hotel I*rices^ but First Class Society, First Hate Cookirif/ and Wines. R. WEBER, Swiss Proprietor. HOMBURG. Patronized by the Gentry of all Nations. Facing the Kurgarden. First-class in every respect. Latest Sanitary Improvements Hydraulic Lift Electric Light throughout. Mineral and other baths in the Hotel. Pension in April, May, June, September, and October, at reduced terms. VV. FISCHER, Propeietor. HOTEL H01\rBTJS,G. RIECH:EXiIVB:7LNN. PATKUNJZED BY ROYALTY AND BEST FAMILIES. One of the Best First-Class Hotels in the Town. High, Dry and Airy Position, in the finest part of the Town. Close to the Kursaal and the Wells. Latest Sanitary Improvements. Verandahs, Beautitul Garden. Excellent Cookery. Choice Wines. Arrangements made on very reasonable terms at an early or later part of the Season. Lift and Telephone. Electric Light. Baths in the Hotel. RIECHELMANN, Proprietor. AN ZDEAZ. POSITION. X X. X* x^ .A. c3 o x^ :^ 3e: xx o qi? x: x. . THE PRINCIPAL ANU ONLY HOTEL ON THE SEA SHORE. rpHE Finest Private Marine Esplanade in the Kingdom. Unrivalled Sea Frontaje and oven Surroundinfjt. -*- Groundt, Five Acres. 250 Jparimenlt. lawn Tennis, Croquet l.amn. Elegaut Salle k Manger. Drawing, Reading, Smoking and B.Uiard Rooms, and Sumptuous Lounge Hall on the Grouad Floor. Moderate Tariff. There is attached to the Hutel one of (he Luryesf Swimming Bulks in the United Kingdom (the tem- perature of which is regulated). Also well-appointed Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. H. R. GROVER, itfan iei il^'sxjrope:. First-class well-knovn Hotel, highly recommended in every reajject, newly furnished with every moileni comfort. Noted for its excellent cookery and choite wines. Table d'Hote at .separate tables." Klegant Louis XVI. Restaurant. Empire Smoking and Beading Rootis. Latest Sanitary Airangemeuts. 16 Bath Rooms and Splendid Shower I5ath. Moderate Charges. Telephone. Omnibus to all triina. English spoken. Peace. Ease, and Comfort. GEOIiGES, Proprietor, also Wine Merchant and Wine Grower at Srtvigny-les-Beaume (Cote-d'Or). LUCERNE. HOTEL DU LAC. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Magnificent Establishment, recently enlarged by a New Wing of 100 Rooms. 300 Beds. Splendid situation on the Lake, where the Eiver Reuss issues from it. Next to the General Post Office. Close to the Railway Station and Steam- boat Pier. This Establishment has every modern comfort. Lift, Electric Light, Central Steam Heating. Baths de Luxe, open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Beautiful Marble Vestibule and Staircase in the Italian Renaissance. PENSION ARRANGEMENTS FOR A LONG STAY. OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. Proprietors: SPILLMAXN soluteIy impervious to and unaffected by petroleum, turpentine, oils, salt air and water, acid fumes, deltteriuus gases and atmospLeric influences, it is also anti-fouling and anti corrosive, and can be applied to Ships' bottoms, interior of Ships, Ironwork, &c. Silver Paint, ^^ Pegamoid " Brand, is untarnishable, ^^a^hable, unaffected by damp or extremes of tf-niperature, adheres evenly to pliant articles, sucb as leather, canvas, &c., wiihout era king or p -eling off; is anti-corn. sive, and can be applied in one operation without trouble or special preparation . It is an excell-nt preservative of iron in any exposed position, and being absolutely nn iffected by sea water, it is undoubtedly the Paint for coating the bottoms of Racing and other Yachts. " PEGAMOID " Brand Materials can be obtainel from HARPER TRADING SYNDI- CATE, Limited, 90, 91 and 9(5, Queen, Street, Chmpside, EJ'.; County Chambers, Cor- '•oration St., Birmingham ; S-l, Castle St , Liverpool; and 33, Gordon St., Glasgow. N.B.— Murray's " Cyclists' Pioad Book " is bound in " Pegamoid " Brand Cloth. 3Li"Sr0 3KrSS- BEST HOTEL IN FINEST SITUATION. THE GRAND HOTEL. THE MOST POPULAR AND FASHIONABLE. LYONS. HOTEL UNIVERS. Facing Perrache Station. First Class. L. DUFOUJR, Proprietor. Mrs. DUFOUR is English. MACOLIN (Lake of Bienne), Switzerland. pT7"r'"P"Y"prjT\"y travelling through BIENNE (Jura-Simplon Ry.) is entitled to Ea V lulX X DyJLf X break his journey and should not Jail to take the Funiculaire (18 73 yds., up and down, 1 fr. 50 c), to Macolin 3,000 feet. Just the place to stay in S iring and Autumn. See Baedeker and Bradshavv . (jrandest View. Sheltered position. Over 1,0C0 Acies of W.iods. Numerous hxcnrsions. Cheap Carriages. Taubenloch Gorges surpassing in loveliness those of Meiringen. Island of St. Pierre. Passion Play "the grand or KURHAUS. Entirely Fireproof. 90 Bedrooms, 40 with Balconies. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Superior Cooking. Late Dinner. Every Comfort. Post, Telegraph, Telephone, in the Hotel. English Chaplain and Rebiient Physician. Coupons taken. Tennis Court. Letters and Telegrams — " Kukhaus Macolin (Swiiz)." Reduced Terms till July 15th and from September 1st. Ppoprietop and Manager, A. WAELLY. 32 MQRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, x^..Al.x>x:xxc,.a. cFl (Established 1850) Telegraphic Address: "REID, FUNCHAL." By appointment to H.E..H. the Duke of Edinburgh. REID'S NEW HOTEL AND ANNEXES— Situated on the Cliflf.^ to the west of Funchal, on the New Koa I, ow rlookiiig 'he b>ia. Giaini viuw of the Mountains. Sea bathing and iioatiug. SANTA CLARA HOTEL.— "Admirably situated, overlooking Ftinchal ; fine view of the mountains rtii.1 s»-a."— r,-,?c lUndtll-g GKE, 124, CIl-uiimiIc, Lnn.lnn : Mfssr.s. J. & II. LINKS.VY. 7. Waterloo i'.uc ■, Edinliurch : HoTEL T.V ItlEF FUKEAl', !).i, KtL'.iit ^tl•L•^,■t, London, AV. ; ami at the STE.V:M.>E L'EXJROI>E. pOKSO VICTOU KMMANCEL, I', H, full M,uth, i ^ Emmanuel l'asPrt^:o. I'ost aii'l TeUf-'raph Offi'-f Reslanraijt. lifaditi;,' Saloous, Smoking K 'om. i Centi-al Steam ';eatin-' Apparatus', and Electric Lig chiiri»e«. Peiici.ui. C'Ok'g Coupon < ac-'T'ted. near to tlie Cathedral, the S ala Grand Theatre, Vict \ Quiet Kii.ms 'afinj; the (iani>n Table d'Hute ai md foreign Ni-wsj.ai (-r--. llyliau;i- lilt t'j each lioi ht in all the hoomi. Omnilms at the '^ta'iin. Modera E. MARCIONWI. Proprietor. MILAN. Bellini's Hotel Teraiaus. The only rea] English Hotel near th*' Station. Heated throughoiit. Moderate Chatges. Hotel Coupons accepted. Torter meets trains. Garden. p^ BELLINI, Proprietor. Valais. MARTIGNY. Switzerland. HOTEL du GRAND ST. BERNARD m:ar thk kati.way station. V. GAV CROSIER, Proprietor. Meals Sffved at any hour. Moderate charges. Carriages for Cliamonix and the Grand St. Bernard at a reduced tariif. ST. BERNARD DOGS FOR SALE. RUSSIA-MOSCOW 3:32«r. 150 BEDS. fill fill Mljilii'Mil Highly recominei. .--- :;■ I:u_:;:i, Guides speaking Znglish at the Hotel. 'TlHI.-; LAl.GE WELL-KNOWN HuTEL, citu^ted in the best and healtbiest part of the City, near the -^ Kremlin and all other places uf interest, established over half a century, lately entirely renewed and enlarged, affords I-irst Class Accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Excellent Kitchen, Table d'Hote. sidemiid Giill R"om at.d Restaurant. Good Cellar. Billiard, Smoking, and Reading Rooms, with English, American, German, and French Newspapers. Good Bath Rooms. Hotel Carriages meet all Trains. CLAQSEN BROTHERS, Proprietors (Swiss). Telegraphic Address : "Hotel Berlin. Moscow." leiiade ktX. FASHIONABLE AND LARGEST HOTEL 250 Elegant Rooms and Saloons. ELECTRIC LIGHT. ELEVATORS. 9.r*' PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY AND THE ELITE OF AMERICAN AND ENGLISH FAMILIES. Proprietor: TH. SEIF WWE. Eirector: H. SCHLERK. *l^ MOST HOF 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 MOSCOW. HOTEL SLAVIARSKY BAZAR. The Largest First-Class Hotel in this Town. ftKD BxATH-T\00]Vl3. FOXc^xsxG-za- STIES ^ixrsx»ja^pjEsxt,s. ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. Omnibus. Interpreters to all Railway Stations. ^ek^rk^ne, JP00t attl) ^eUgrap^k (DfKre0 in the kousf^. MUNICH. GRAND HOTEL RHEINISCHER HOF. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL on the Central Railway Station. Especially patronised by English and American Families. Entirely rebuilt with every modern comfort. Elevator and Electric Light. Ladies' Drawing Room, Billiard and Smoking Rooms. JACOB BANNER, Royal Court Purveyor. MAXIMILIAN PLATZ. MUNICH. MAXIMILIAN PLATZ. GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL SPLENDID FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Situated in the most quiet and fashionable quarter, and near all objects of interest. All modern comforts and improvements. Hydraulic Lift, Baths. Klectric Light. Moderate Charges. M. DIENEE,, Proprietor. MUNICH. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. F ist-Class Hotel. Opposite the Central Station, Near the Post and Telegraph OflBces. Entirely Newly burnished. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light in all Rooms. Baths in the Hotel, Reading anri Smoking Rooms. Moderate Charges. Central Heating. Conducted by the Proprietor— E. SCHMOLLiER. NAPLES. THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL. Open all the year round. Quai Parthenope (New Embankment), Splendid situation- full South, Close to the Public Garden and the centre of the town, with magnificent view ' of tie Bay and Vesuvius, Hydraulic Lift, Klectric Light, Telegraph and Post OfiBce, Every kind of baths. Moderate charges. Pension 8 to 12 Francs. R. WAEHLER, Proprietor. ]>2 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, NEUHAUSEN - SCHAFFHAUSEN, SWITZERLAND. ^allo of IKq J^hlTiQ. VIEW FROM THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. F. WEGENSTEIN, Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every convenience and comfort. 200 Rooms. Fire Escapes. Hydraulic Lift. Sjilendid Views of the celebrated Falls of the Rhitie and Chain of the Alps, including Mont Blanc, covering an extent of hundreds of miles. FINE PARK AND GARDENS. A Charming Summer Eesort", noted for its healthy position, bracing air, and most beautiful landscape. SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR A PROTRACTED STAY. Hotel Omnibuses meet Trains at Neuhausen & Schaffhauscn. BY MEANS OF ELECTRICITY AND BENGAL LIGHTS THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE BRILLIANTLY ILLUMINATED EVERY NIGHT DURING THE SEASON. Englis'i Divine Service in the Xew Church located in the Grounds of tiie Schweizorhof. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 NEUCHATEL. GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE YUE. Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor. First-Class Hotel, Magnificently sitnated on the Border of the Lake. Commaniling splendid Views of the Panorama of the Alps. lift. Electric Light in all the Kooms. Garden. PEXSIOy PRICES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. N.B.—Btsides the Evening Train (direct) a Day Tiain is mnTiii p between Nenchatel and Paris, and vice versa. HOTEL WESTMINSTER. First-Class Family Hotel. Delightfully situat'.-d on Promenade des Anglais. The finest position in Nice. Full south. "-Jreat comfort. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light in every room. Tariff moderate. .Special rates en persion for a long stay. F. REBETEZ, Manager. NICE (Jardin Public). GRAND HOTEL D'ANCLETERRE. This long established First-Class Hotel has been much enlarged and improved. Best situation in Nice. All modern com- fort. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Hydraulic Lift. Flush Drainage. STEINBRUCK, Proprieto r. GRAKO HOTEL METROPOLE AND PARADIS. First-Class. Centre of the Town. T. CREPAUX, Proprietor. NUREMBERG. GOLDEN EAGLE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE. Newly rebuilt. 200 Beds. Most central and best position. Spei ially patronised by English and America' s. Arrangements made. Baths. Electric Light and central Heating in Corridors and every Room. Lift. Omnibus meets all trains. Under tbe personal maniigement of the Proprietor, WILLY SCHLENK. NURNBERG (NUREMBERG^ HOTEL b.h.yerisch::e2r-h:of. THIS First-rate and Superior Hotel, situated In the centre of the town, is hiirhly spoki n of by English and American Travellers for its general comfort, and moderate charg) s. Has been greatly enlarged, and contains now 100 well-furnished rooms and saloons. Ladies' and Reading Saloon, Smoking Room, (fee, and a beautiful large Dining Room English and Foreipn Newspapers. Carriages at the Hotel. Omnibuses to and from each train. English Church in the Hotel ; Divine Service every Sunday. Electric Light. J. AUINGEE,, Proprietor. NERVI. HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Sea and Railway Station. 15 Minutes from Genoa. Stopping place for all express trains. Patronised by H.H. the Queen of Portugal, and H.EXC. the Marscliell von Moltke. HVDRAUI.ZC I.IFT. ODESSA. Hotel d^JEtirope. BEST SITUATED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. ENGLISH SPOKEN. A. MAGENER, Proprietor. OSTEND. GREAT OCEAN HOTEL. FIEST-CLASS & MOST FASHIONABLE HOTEL & EESTAURANT. Unrivalled for their Situation. Facing Sea and Baths. Highly Recommended. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. GRAND OSTEND. HOTEL FONTAINE THE LARGEST OF THE TOWN. NEAR THE SEA. 300 Beds. Lift. Electric Light. Open all the year World-wide Reputation. IS MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, OSTEND. GRAND HOTEL DU LITTORAL Most fashionable part of the Dig-ue, facing- Sea. LIGUTEI} THROVGHOIT BY KLEfTIilCITT. LIFT, Etc. BOARD from IPs, per day. OSTEND. The Most fa-hionable Hotel and Restaurant iu th? Place. Finest situation facing the Sea ani Baths, and next to the Palace of the Royal Family, &c. Elevator. 200 Beds and Saloons. All Modern Comforts Omnibus m^ets Steamers and Trains. Address for Letters and Cahlegrom'i: "SPLENDID, OSTEND." PAR A me'. Sea Bathing- of Parame, near St. Malo (France).— The finest Sand Shore uu the Coasts of Brittany, surroitnded by charming j aiiorama. pictnresqne Bites, and splendid views ; sweet and very salubrious clirnte. / GrX&.A.jy-X> ^OOLTXSX. DDES '^.AJ^.AJTMrEl. ITUATED i)n tue vtry Shore, near the Casino and Bithin? Establishment. First-class Hutel, much "^ frequented by the :"est Enslish Families. Beautiful Dining Room. Kesianrant. Saloon. I>awn Tennis. Hot Baths ani Telegraph in the Hou-e Very large GarJt-n. Great Comfort and. Moderate Charges Very advantageoiu conditions in .lulv arid September Omnibus of tiie Uotel to all trains a d RZGUEI.I.1: and GRAJON, Proprietors. PARIS. HOTEL MIRABEAU. S, Hxie de la I»aix, 8. Patronized hy the Royal Families of several Courts of Europe. BEAUTIFULLY situated in the fiuest part of the City ; the prettiest (Jourt- Yard in Paris. Restaurant a la carte, and Private Dinners at fixed prices. Apartments of all sizes for Families and Gentlemen. American and English Papers". Lift, &c. PETIT cXTncle and Nepliew), Proprietors. PAU. HOTEL DE FRANCE. ''pHIS FIRST-CLASS HUTEL, situated on tlie Place Royale, com- -L mands the most splendid view of the whole chain of the Pyrenees, and is adjoining to the English Club. Improved Lift .^ ^ GAUDERES FRERES, Proprietors. (Engadme.) PON TRESINA. (Switzerland.) HOTEL ENDERLIN. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, IN AN OPEN POSITION. FULL SOUTH. Commanding a Magnificent View of tlie Mountains d Glaciers. AND ESPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES. With Balconies, covered Pavilion, and Restaurant. Splendid Suite of Public Rooms, and Library. Gjod Cooking. Baihs. Drainage and Ventilation Arrangements after the most app oved principle?. For farther particular., apply to C. GREDIG-ENDERLIN. 1>^^7. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. POITIERS. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. First-Class ard recommended to Families and Tourists for its comfort and good manage- ment. The most central of the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, Prefecture, Telegraph, Post OfiHce, Museum, Historical Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and truffled Pates of all sorts. Carriages for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel. ROBLIN-BOTJCHABDEATT, Proprietor. PONTRESINA (Engadine, Switzerland). HOTEL KROMMOF & BELLAVISTA lirsf-Class Hotel. SOO Beds. MOSTLY FREQUEXTKD BY ENGLISH AND AMERICAN VISITORS. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED. REDUCED TERMS IN SPRING AND AUTUMN. Special Arrangements for Families. HOTEL LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY. L. GREDIG, Proprietor. PHAGUe. HOTEL ERZHERZOG STEPHAN. First-Class Hotel. On the '* Wenzelsplatz," nearest to the Railway Stations and the Post and Telegraph Office. ELEGANTLY FURNISHED ROOiVSS AND APARTMENTS. Garden. RestHurant. Yieune.-e Cnlfee-huuse. Splendid Cooking and good Wines. Baths. Telephune. Carriages. Station of the Tram Cars. W. HAUlSrEIl, Proprietor. PRAGUE. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, a Few Steps from the Central Station. IN THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN. AT THE CORNER OF THE CHANNEL Every Modern Comfort. Telephone. Baths. Carriages. ELECTRIC LIGHT. HYDRAULIC LIFT. MODERATE CHARGES. W. BSNES, Proprietor. PRAGUE. Tj^IRST-CLASS FAMILY^ HOTEL in the centre of the town. Patroui-ed by English ano Americans. First-rate attendance. Moderate Charges. English Churth Service I every Sunday in the Hotel. O. & H. "WELZER, Proprietors. 40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PRAGUE. HOTEL COLDENER ENGEL FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. BEST SITUATED. PISA. GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. First Class. Moderate Charges. FULL SOUTH. LARGE GARDEN. M. GAPDINI, Proprietor. RHEIMS. GRAND HOTEL DU LION D'OR. Fil-st-class, best rituatif n opposite the Cathedral. Comfortahle Bed and Sitting' Itooms. Smi.kin^' hoora. Electric Light aud all modern Sauitan- arrangements. Private Apartments for Familieo. Very large Court Yards and beanliful Gardens. Table d'ridte and Kestauraut a la Carte. Cboice Wines. CoL^ine rechenhee. Hot ai d Cold Batlis. English and German spioken. Telegraphic Address : RADLE, Ehe-ms. J. EADLE, Proprietor- ROME. Highest Position in Rome. SITUATED ON THE PINCIAN HILL. COMMANDING FINE VIEW OVER ROME AND CAMPAGNA. K^OI^Ii^H HOTEI>. SAME MANAGEMENT, EDEN HOUSE, LUCERNE. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE, IN THE BEST SITUATION. ON THE ELECTRIC TEAM LINE. MODERN COMFORT. FE ANZ NISTi.LWICK, Proprietor. ROME. HOTEL MOLARO. 56, VIA GREGORIAN A {MeartothePindo). FULZ. SOUTH. Healthiest Situation' in Town, and very Central. Old Reputation for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. HYDRAULIC LIFT. Winter Garden. Electric Light and Calo ifere in all the Rooms. ROME. HOTEL ROYAL MAZZERI. Via Venti Settembre. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated full South, on the highest Lift. and healthiest part of Eome. Calorifere. Electric Lig-ht throughout. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 ROME. Grande Pension Tellenbach. Close to PIAZZA DI SPAflNA aud the PIXCIO. SUNNY POSITION. 130 ROOMS and SALONS. OLD RENOWNED HIGH-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL COMFORTABLE. FASHIONA BLE. HEALTHY. Cliarges moderate. Particular attention is paid to the Cooking and Serviice. Open all the year. Two Hydraulic Lifts. Electric Light. Baths. Hall and Stairs heated. Winter Garden. Large Drawing, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. OMNIBUS MEETS ALL THE TRAINS. Telegraphic Address: "GRANDE PENSION TELLENBACH." ROM E. CONTINENTAL 300 Rooms. HlJ X JdJj. AH Modern Comfort^. Open all Year Round. R LUGANI, Pro prietor . ROME. GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE Via Bahuino et Piazza del Popolo. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is now considerably enlarged and renewed with the latest ni' dern comfort. The only one having a large and entirely sunny Garden. Unique and healthy position. TWO LIFTS. CALORIFERES. ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM. MODJiiRATiii CHARGES. H. SILENZI, Proprietor. 42 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ROME. Family Hotel. Every Modem Comfort. Ooly Suony Kooins. Life. Baths. Caloriferes. Knsff access to all jtarls of lioittc h;/ the ti>ir Electric Trannraff, M. SILENZI BECCARI, Proprietor. ROME. GRAND HOTEL MARINI. First-Olass Unrivalled for its healthy, quiet, and central situation. Fult South. Lift. Electric Light. (OPEN ALL THE YEAR.) E. MARINI & Co. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. /^N THE QUAY, comiuanding the finest view of the Seine ; Mr. A. ^^ MoxxiER, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. Leon Sovchard. Travellers will find at this tir-t-rate Establishment airy Rooms, Good Beds. Ex cellent Cooking, Wines of the beot quality, in fact, every comfort, and at moderate charges. Table d'hote at 6 o'clock. " Rt staurant a la Carte." Smoking-room. Travellers are respectfully recommendea not to permit themselves to be misled by commissioners, etc. ROUEN. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. RooQis lighted by Electricity and heated l^y Calorifere. Situated ofipos't.' the Post Office in the finest Central pait of the Town. Mugnificent G irden in front ot ihe Hotel, Reading, Music, and Writing Saloons. English Newspapers. English and German spoken. Rooms from 3 lr<. ; Breakfast ] fr. 5U c. ; Lun^h 2 frs. 50 c. ; Dinner 3 frs. 50 c. Telei-hone. ___ FIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated on the quay. The most beautiful situation in the Town. Close to tiie Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Landing Suges ot the Havre steamers. This Ho'.el has been newly furuishea, and now offers equally as comfortable accommodation as the Largest Hotels, but with more moderate terms. Telephone. Electric Light. English Spoken. Blan sprickt Deutsch. Mme. BATATLLARD. I-roprietress {orini liii o/ Hotel del' Europe, Macon). ROYAT LES BAINS. niiST-CLASS HOTEL. MYLHiAl Lie LliT. ELECTHIC LIGHT. LARGE GARDEN WITH TERRACE WALKS. OPEN FROM ir.rn MAY TO lotn OCTOBER. Z.. SERVANT, Proprietor. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 A. V. Humboldt says : " Napl places in the world." ^ GRAND SALZBURG. Constantinople, and SALZBURG are the three lit HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. Mozart's Birthplace, Vienna — Mtmicli lAne. BEAUTIFUL SITUATION. Modfm construction. Lift. Electric Light. EVENING CONCERTS IN THE CHARMING HALL. Shady Park. Lawn Tennis. G. JUNG, Proprietor. SAN REMO. HOTEL EUROPE & PAIX. The nearest to the station, town, promenade and public gardens. Comfortable in every respect. No omnibns required. Restaurant. L. BEIiTOLINI, Proprietor. SPA HOTEL D'YORK. A Vf-ry old and first-rate Hotel, excef dingly well t.ituated. and especially known for its comfort and good accouimodation. Highly recommended. Yve. H T.ARDNER, Proprietor. SEELISBERG (Switzerland). XjA'K of LIJCEIIKE HOTEL & PENSION SONNENBERG First-Class Hotel, 300 Apartments. Splendid View over the Lake and of the Surrounding Mountains. Physician specially attached to the Hotel. Divine Service of the Catholic, Protestant, and Anglican Communions. Reduced Charges i:i Spring and Autumn. M. TKUTTMAN. rRopRriTOR. SESTRI LEVANTE. (Ox THE Genoa - Spezia Lfxe). HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. COMPLETELY REFURNISHED THROUGHOUT. Splendid Establishment, facing the Sea. Full South. Garden on the Sea-shore. Very Moderate Terms. An Excellent Winter Station P 4GG J. Prop ri etor. SPA. HOTElLi HE BELH^E YUE Situated in the Healthiest Part of the Town. Near the Eoyal Palace, the Parks, and the Baths. Large Garden. Omnibus at the Station. ROUMA. Proppietor. GRAND HOTEL *DE L'EUROPE. First-class, close to the Mineral Springs, Casino, and Anglican Church. Omnibus to meet all Trains. FAMILY HOTEL EVERY MODERN COMFORT. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. HENRARD-AICHARD, Proprietor. SPEZIA (Riviera di Levante). Best and cheapest stopping-place on the way to Florence and Rome Splendid Sceuery. GRAND HOTEL & CROCE DI MALTA. A COMFORTABLE well drained and ventilated first-class house, full south, overlooking the Bay. View of the Carrara Mountains. A favourite mild winter rescfft. Pension terms, 8 to 12 fcs. per day, wine included. COATES & CO.. Proprietors. u MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, c5 Jtr jLA.t Grand Hotel Britannique. F. LEYH, Proprietor. PATRONIZED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY 0? BELGIUM. SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN. LARGE GARDEN AND TENNIS GROUNDS. Adjoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church. lEisra-iLisxi: sipoicisisr. 0:U]VI1SU§ AT EACH A»«ITAI.. LAKE OF LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND. Climatic S'ati n, 4,3;'0 ft. above the sea. Sheltered and mild aitnation. Splendid view ot the Valley (Four Lakes) and the Mountains. Numerons Promenades. 150 Beds. Reailins, Smoking, Billiard, and Ladies' [(rawing Room. Caf6 - Restaurant. Terrace, Baths, 5-team Heatins?, Garden, Lawn Temas. Board an! Lodging from 7 to 12 francs a day, ?' rvice and light included. P- nsion Terms for a stay of at least five days CARL MULLER, Proprietor. STRASBOU.IG. HOTEL DE LA YILLE DE PARIS. UNI VEB SALLY REPUTED. HYr>R.\rLIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. UNDER KEW MAX.\GEMEN'T. The largest and most comfortable Hotel in Strasbourg, with all modern comfort. Situated in the finet^l I)art of the town, near the Palace, Cathedral, and Promenade. Patronised by Royalty and highly recommended to English and American Hamilies and Gentlemen. C. MATHIS, Director Proprietor. STRASBOURG lALSACE). HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE First Class. .Splendid Situation. Higlily rccomuieuded tu English and American Families. Moderate Charges. EMIL THOMA, Proprietor. STRASBOURG. Hlotsel N'Oitiona.l. The only First-Class Hotel uewly built. Opposite the Railway Station. Bath and Lift System improved. Lnrge and Small Apart- ments for" Families and Siusle Gentlemen. Moderate Charses. Electric Light throughout. Electric Trams from the Hotel to all parts of the town. eum, on one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Malar and the Baltic. The Royal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel cm the opposite side of the Harbour. The Royal Opera and the Principal Theatres are in close proximity. The balconi(js and roof of the Hotel com- mand the most extensive Views of the City. The House is replete with every modern improvement and co'ivenience, and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most comfortable Hotels on the Continent. The Building- contains 400 Sleeping Apartments, besides Dinini? Rooms, Sitting Rooms, Coffee and Reading- Rooms, a Billiard Room, Baths, Retir- ing Rooms, and other accommodations. The several flats Can. be reached by Lifts. All European languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terras will be found to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels. EXCELLENT COOKING. ELECTRIC LIGHT. THE CHOICEST WINES. J?. CADIBB, rro2)rietor. STUTTGART. Uii-ert J£ntrftnce froui the Railway Station. FINEST POSITiON IN TOWN. SPLENDID NEW BUiLDENC. FIRST CLASS. 300 ROOIi/IS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. ELEVATORS. Rooms from 2*50 Marks up-wards. H. & 0. MARQUARDT. STUTTGART. Opposite the Statiun. Elegantly far .ished Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. Electric Ligiit. Steam Heating. BANZHAF BROTHERS, Proprietors. ST. BEATENBERG Near INTEKLAKEN, SWITZERLAND. First-clasj Climatic Station. Hotel et Pension de la Posie. First-c ass House. New stone liuildinf.':. Every coiiifort. HitUtiteii in centre of l)eautiful I'm- menade, with splendid View of the Alps. Post, Teletrraph, and Telephone Oihee in the Hole!. Moderate TariiT. E( ; I . ! ■ r;K V X v E R, Proprietor. 46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ST. MORITZ DORF. HOTEL BAVIER DU BELVIDERE. Connected by Electric Tram with St. Moritz Bad. First-class Hotel. Magnificent Situation. Large Public Rooms. Fire-proof Staircases. Lift. Electric Light. Heated by Hot-water Apparatu-. Special Orchestra. Moderate Terms. Lawn Tennis. Large ice Kink. Open from June to September, and I^ovember to March. R. BAVIER, Proprietor. ST. PETERSBURG. Kept by E. RENAULT. T)EST situation in the Town, Great Morskaia, right opposite the ■^ Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Nevaki Prospect. Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented, especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papera Greatly to be recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine. Dinners 1 r. 50 k. and 3r. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles. All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on the Premises. The English Guide, Charles A. Kuntze, highly com- mended. §:^ The Hotel is recommended in Murray's Handbook of Bussia. The HOTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL DE FRANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor. ST. PETERSBURG. KASAXSKAJA STBEET, 29. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Centre of the Town. Close to the Newsky Prospect. New Establishment. HIGHLY RECOMMEXDED. English and other Foreign Languages Spoken. BATHS. ELECTRIC LIGHL OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. C. LANGE, Proprietor. TOXJUS. HOTEL I)E BORDEAUX. Proprietor, CLOVIS DELIGNOU. Patronized by His Royal HigJinvss the Prince of Wales, and the European Courts. IN FRONT OF THE STATION AND UPON THE BOULEVARD. SPLENDID APARTMENTS. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 47 ST. PETERSBURG. I wimm RUE MICHEL a ST. PETERSBOURG. CORNER OF THE NEVSKI PROSPECT ANC MICHEL STREET. VERY CENTRAL POSITION. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, 3G0 Eooms, including 100 Apartments, I WITH EVERY MODERN IMPROVEMENT AND COMFORT, OMNIBUSES MEET ALL TRAINS AND BOATS. TWO LIFTS. ONLY HOTEL WITH ELECTRIC LIGHT. +8 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May ST. PETERSBURG. aiteSJ, ID'iffl©l£gici3. THIS well-known HOTEL liasjitlie best situation in St. Petersburg- It has lately beea eutirely renovated and affords First-cliss A(Commo(lation for Fami'i(-s and Gt^ntlemen. Excellent Kitchen and Cellar. Reading Ro. m wi'h English and American Newspapers. French, Germ m and English spoken. Omnibus me.ts all 1 rains and Steamers. Uniler Knglish Managemt^m. Tdegraphic Address: " Angleterre, Petersburg." TH. SCHOTTE, Manager. Switzerland. THUN OnLakeofThun. ELECTRIC LIGHT THRO TGEOTIT. FINEST POSITION. BATHS. LIFT, etc. TENNIS COURT. from 8 fr -^^ -^-^^ Entirely Kenovated. Open-Air Restaurant in sheltered Terrace, with marvellous view. Pension Eates per day. M. l'r]TER, Manager. HOTEL ET PENSION BELLEVUE. Oi.posite the Steamboat Pier. '" HOFSTETTEfMHUN." Electric Light throughout. Well-known hirst-Class Family Hotel, specially adapted for prolonged stay. Extensive Gardens. Pinewood Park. Advantageous arrangements for families made durmg the whole season. Pension from 7 fr. per day upwards. P. SCHLENKEK, Manager. THUN —THE NEW KURSAAL (Near Thuuerhof and Bellevue) Will he Opoied on the 1st of June, C NCERTS EVERY DAY- REXD NG AND DRA'VtNG ROOIVIS, ETC. 1897. MaRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS. ON THE BOULWaRD, NEAR THE STATION. Highly recommended in all the French and Foreign Guide Books. EUGENE GUILLAUME, Proprietor. • BLACK FOREST. T R I B E RG , 715 Metres above the Sea. • HOTEL HITEHM^E. i jP. WEHBLE, rrojyrietor. Best situation, near the Waterfalls, for a long time well known as JElOA^li:!-. z. *•• OCHJ^IillN.''' / Every English comfort. Baths. Park Garden. Electric Iiight. Milk Cure. Omni- / bus at tbe Station, Carriages. Moderate chargres. Pension. The proprietor gives best information for excursions in the Black Forest. The Hotel Wehrle, not very large, tut very comfortable, is hig-hly recommended by- German and foreign Guide Books. 9 GOOD TBOIT FISHIXG. # TRIBERG. HOTEL BELLEVUE, A very comfortable First-class Family Hotel, close to the Water- falls and Forest. Very high ard charming position, overlooking the Village and Valley. Large and airy joining Eocm, newly decorated Drawing Room and Restaurant. Balconies all ronnd the liou.se. Fine Garden. Baths. Electric Light. ENGLISH COMFORT. PENSION. MODERATE CHARGES. OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. ALBERT ROTZINGER, Proprietor. 50 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, TURIN. Trombetta et d'Angletem. This First-Class Hotel is situated in the Via Roma, and two minutes' walk from the Station, Post, Telegi^aph, etc., and is furnished to afford residents every possible convenience and modern home comfort. Single and Double Bedrooms and splendid Suites of Apartments at moderate charges. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT CALORIFERES. Railway Ticket Office in the Hotel. H^yOU AXJIuIC IL.IJPT. BAGLIONI, Proprietor. Branch House: GRAND HOTEL ITALIE, BOLOGNA. TURIN. Grand Hotel de I'Europe. This splendid Hotel is situated on the Piazza Castello, five' minutes' walk from the Station and Post and Telegraph Offices, and is furnished to afford Residents every possible convenience and comfort. LIGHTED BY ELECTRICITY. HEATED BY HOT-AIR STOVES. BATHS. HYDRAULIC LIFT. SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS PERFECT, Single and Double Bedrooms and splendid Suites of Apart- ments at moderate charges. A. BORGO, Proprietor. Branch Houae : GRAND HOTEL, ALAGNA, VAL SESIA. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 VARALLO (Northern Italy). A MOST PICTURESQUE HEALTH BE SORT. THE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND GRAND HOTEL. Open from 1st of MAY to eud of OCTOBER. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE with every modem comfort. 200 Rooms. Lift. Electric Light. Library. English Chaplain. Splendid drives to BAYENO, TALLANZA, STRESA, and the LAKE D'ORTA. VENICE. HOTEL ROYAL DANIELI First-class Hotel, situated in the most delightful and convenient position in Venice, within a few steps of the Doge's Palace. Has been entirely refitted with all the latest improvements. Electric Light. Steam Heating. Conversation, Heading, Smoking, and Billiard Eooms. The only hotel in Venice with railway office for the issue of tickets and registration of luggage. Two Hydraulic Lifts. HOTEL D'lTALIE BAUER Near St Mark's Square. On the Grand Canal. Facing the Church of St. Maria Salute. 250 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Post Office in the Hotel. GRAND RESTAURANT BAUER GRUNWALD. Rendezvous of the Best Society. J. GRUNWALD, Sen., Proprietor. VIENNA. GRABEN-STEPHANSPLATZ. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Most Central Position. Electric Light. Lift. Baths. Reading and Smoking Rooms. i COOK'S COUPONS TAKEN. COOK'S COUPONS TAKEN. 52 MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEKTISEK. May, HOTEL "d'EUROPE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. SITUATED IN THE B EST POSITION ON THE GRAND CANAL. Has just been repaired and greatly improved. New large Dining Piuom on the Ground Floor overlooking the Grand Canal. SMOKING AN D READiNG ROO MS. BATHS. Patroni25ed by the most distinguished Families. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. MA1RST^II.LE BBOTHEES, ProT>rJetor8. VENICE. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. Old Established First-Class Hotel, close to St. MarVs Square. Under Nevr IVXanageiuent. 150 well- furnished Bedrooms and Saloons. Pension from 8 fr. upwards, first-rate Cuisine. Table d'Hote. Baths in every floor. Lift. Telephone. bTectnc Light. English tastes consulted. Lift to every fiwor. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rocmst Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Cook's Coupons accepted. A. BOZZI, Proprietor. -^^ JL cs ^z. '^sr ON THE r- PARK FACING - THE CASINO. ON THE PARK OPPOSITE KIOSQUE OF MUSIC GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS & CONTINENTAL. ROUBEAU & COLLET, Proprietors. Kntirely Pe-arrangpd ami consiiurably Enlarged. Is the nio^t elegant, comfortable and be^t situated iu Vichy, and the ODly one freqiKnted by the Ro.^ al Family of England. A part of the Hotel is arranged and warmed epecially fur the winter season. It is the only Hotel at Vichy having a general hygienic iu-tallation. Pension from 12fr. per day. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53 GRAND hotel" DU PARC and ORAIVO HOTEL. THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. A FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths, Springs, and Casino. PRIVATE PAVILION FOR F AMILIES. GERMOT, Proprietor . VIENNA. h;ote:x^ kronprinz. 1 A JULY HOTEL. Good Position, Centre of the Town. Large Rooms -with Good View. TERMS MODERATE. ELECTRIC LIGHT. L. SEIIiER, Proprietor. VIE^NNA. XX O rX* X3 Iji 3!IXX:":i73E^OX*OX.Z3. First-Class and best situated Hotel. FRANZ JOSEF'S QUAl. Specially frequented by English and Americans. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light. Price for Bedroom, including lio-ht and attendance, from 1.50 florin. Tariffs in every room. L. SPEISEB, Manager. VIENNA. Grand Hotel, I. KA.IINTHNERRING, 9. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. SPLENDID SITUATION. ry^HE most agreeable habitation which Vienna can offer J- to Foreigners. All modern comfort combined with moderate charges. Specially patronized by English and American Families. 300 elegantly furnished Rooms, from 1 florin ; Aj)artments, from 6 florins upwards. Magnificent Dining Saloons ; Restaurant Saloon ; Conversation, Smoking, Reading, and Ladies' Drawing Rooms. EXCELLENT COOKING. Dinners and Suppers a la Carte or at fixed prices. Batii Rooms. Hydraulic Lift. Telephone. Electric Light. OMNIBUS TO AND FROM TEE STATION. Arrangements made with Families Wintering in Vienna. 54 MURRAY'S HANDiiOOK ADVERTISER. May, WIESBADEN. HOTEL QUISISANA. Unrivalled position— PARK STRASSE— a hundred steps from the Kurhouse. A BEAUTIFUL FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. Tin' Only One in WlE.'ilSADEX on Elevated Ground. OFFERS HOME COMFORT TO ENGLISH & AMERICAN FAMILIES. XiIS^T. C3- -A. I?. X) E IT S . SPLENDID MINERAL WATER BATHS- PENSION AT REASONABLE TERMS. Open and frequenttd throughout the whole year. — Apply to the Proprietor, L. ROSER. WIESBADEN. WHITE SWAN HOTEL Bath and l*eiision. ^Mineral Water direct from the principal spring, the Kochbrunnen. W. JSTETTENDORFr, Proprietor. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR THE RHINE & NORTH CERMANY. WITH MAP AND PLANS. Crown 8vo. 10s. WILDBAD (BLACK Forest). HOTEL KLUMPP HYDBAULIC LIFTS TO EVEEY FLOOB. THIS FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, with separate Breakfast, Reading, Lady's and Conversation Eooms, as well as a Smoking Koom. Large handsome Dining Saloon. An artificial garden over the river. Beautifully situated in connection with the Old and New Bath Buildings and Conversation House. Five minutes' walk from the Euglisn Church, and in the imme- diate vicinity of the Park and Pump Eoom. Well-known for its elegant and comfortable apartments. Good Cuisine and Wines, and deserves its wide -spread reputation as one of the best hotels on the Continent. Table d'hote. Restaurant. Correspondents of principal Banking Houses of London, New York, &c., for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. O^flNIBUS OF THE HOTEL MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FINE PRIVATE CARRIAGES. Capital Trout Fishiny in the River Enz. LAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET. Reduced Terms for Rooms in May and September. __^ EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. NEW WORKS BY ED WARD W HYMPER. Chamonix and the Range of Mont Blanc. By Edwakd VVhympek, Author of " Scrambles amongst the Alps," "Travels amongst the Great Andes'," &c. With C5 Illustrations and Maps. 3s. net. Zermait and the Matterhorn. With 70 Hhistrations find I\lap'. 3s. net. 1897. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 ZERMATT. Yiege-Zematt Railway. SWITZERLAND. NARROW GAUGE, COG WHEEL RAILWAY. OPEN FROM 15th May TO 31st October. Matterhorn Mont Rosa Goerner Grat. I This line is one of the most interesting and picturesque in the world. The journey from Viege to Zermatt now only takes 2^ hours, formerly it was a nine hours' walk. Very comfortable Carriages. Special Saloon Carriages to enable one to see the Grand Scenery along the line. For departure of the Trains see the Time Table. ZERMATT. Seller's Grand Hotels. HOTEL MONT ROSA, HOTEL MONT CERVIN. HOTEL ZERMATT. HOTEL RIFFELALP, HOTEL RIFFEL, HOTEL 8CHWAR2 SEE. Buffet at the Station. Doctor. Chemist. Baths. Moderate Prices. OPEN FROM 1st MAY TO 30th OCTOBER. 56 MJRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1897. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, AND THE CONTINENT, Via NEWIIAVEN, DIEPPE, and BO VEX. THE SHORTEST mND CHEAPEST ROUTE. DAY EXPRESS SERVICE. -(Week-days and Sundays) from victoria. London Bridge, and Brighton, to Paris (First and Second Class) every mornin, nmrP'i ( '^' Arthm- Street East ; and City Uffices | jj^ys\4, Royal Exchange Buildings. Stations: London Bridge and Victoria. (:By ovclex*), AUlLi^Eltf SAf^US, London Bridge Terminus, 1897. Secretary and General :U:anager. 11/ '/ 56 7 DAY USE 1897 J.. ;!£i|^ RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the ORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY University of California Richmond Field Station, BIdg. 400 1301 South 46th Street Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS \o renew or recharge your library materials, you may ntact NRLF 4 days prior to due date at (510) 642-6233 DUE AS STAMPED BELOW SEP 2 7 2007 D 12M 7-06 56 7 P4X USE lay, 1897. RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the ORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY University of California Richmond Field Station, BIdg. 400 1301 South 46th Street Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS fo renew or recharge your library materials, you may ntact NRLF 4 days prior to due date at (510) 642-6233 DUE AS STAMPED BELOW SEP 2 7 2007 3 12M 7-06 ^P MUJ ,UC- BERKELEY LIBRARIES MURRAY'S FOREI CD3MTbT15S REECE, , ThE3- HANDBOOK - GREECE, Ti Athens, The Pkloponnesu^ 8AL7, AND Macedonia. Malps iwur^ HANDBOOK— CONSTANTINOPLE, BRUSA, and the TROAD. Editedi by Gen. Sir Chas. Wilson, R.E., K.C.B. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. HANDBOOK— ASIA MINOR, TRANSCAUCASIA, PERSIA, &c. Edited by Gen. Sir Chas. Wilson, R.E., K.C.B. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 18s. HANDBOOK — HOLY LAND, Syria and Palestine, Jerusalem^ Damascus, Palmyra, &c. By the Rev. Haskett Smith. Maps and Plans. PostSvo. 18*. 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