THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN 1806 BY THE SAME AUTHOR PIGSTICKING CAVALRY INSTRUCTION RECONNAISSANCE AND SCOUTING THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEH A MATABELE WARRIOR MAKING DISPARAGING REMARKS The enemy would come out on the rocks before a fight, and dance and work them- selves up into a frenzy, shouting all sorts of epithets and insults at the troops. THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN 1896 BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE CAMPAIGN IN SUPPRESSING THE NATIVE RISING IN MATABELELAND AND MASHONALAND BY COLONEL R. S. S. BADEN-POWELL n ISTH HUSSARS FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY WITH NEARLY IOO ILLUSTRATIONS METHUEN & CO. 36 ESSEX STREET, W.C. LONDON 1897 PREFACE UMTALI, MASHONALAND, \2th December 1896. MY DEAR MOTHER, It has always been an understood thing between us, that when I went on any trip abroad, I kept an illustrated diary for your particular diversion. So I have kept one again this time, though I can't say that I'm very proud of the result. It is a bit sketchy and incomplete, when you come to look at it. But the keeping of it has had its good uses for me. Firstly, because the pleasures of new impres- sions are doubled if they are shared with some appreciative friend (and you are always at least appreciative). Secondly, because it has served as a kind of short talk with you every day. Thirdly, because it has filled up idle moments in which goodness knows what amount of mis- chief Satan might not have been finding for mine idle hands to do ! R. S. S. B.-P. vii 273254 TO THE READER THE following pages contain sketches of two kinds, namely, sketches written and sketches drawn. They were taken on the spot during the recent campaign in Matabeleland and Mashona- land, and give a representation of such part of the operations as I myself saw. They were jotted down but roughly, at odd hours, often when one was more fit for sleeping than for writing, or in places where proper draw- ing materials were not available I would ask you, therefore, to look leniently upon their many faults. The notes, being chiefly extracts from my diary and from letters written home, naturally teem with the pronoun, "I," which I trust you will pardon, but it is a fault difficult to avoid under the circumstances. They deal with a cam- paign remarkable for the enormous extent of country over which it was spread, for the varied components and inadequate numbers of its white x TO THE READER forces, and especially for the difficulties of supply and transport under which it was carried out points which, I think, were scarcely fully realised at home. The operations were full of incident and interest, and of lessons to those who care to learn. Personally, I was particularly lucky in seeing a good deal of Matabeleland, and some- thing of Mashonaland, as well as in having a share in the work of organisation in the office, and in afterwards testing its results in the field. Incidentally I came in for a good taste of the best of all arts, sciences, or sports " scouting." For these reasons I have been led to offer these notes to the public, in case there might be aught of interest in them. The " thumbnail " sketches claim the one merit of having been done on the spot, some of them under fire. Most of the photographs were taken with a " Bulldog " camera (Eastman, 115 Oxford Street), and enlarged. A few were kindly given by Captain the Hon. J. Beresford, 7th Hussars. Several of the illustrations have also appeared in the Graphic and Daily Graphic, and are here reproduced through the courtesy of the proprietors of those journals. R. S. S. B.-P. MARLBOROUGH BARRACKS, DUBLIN, \yth March 1897. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I. OUTWARD BOUND 3 II. STATE OF AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND . . .24 III. OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO ' 43 IV. SCOUTING 89 V. THE REBELS DECLINE TO SURRENDER . . .122 VI. CAMPAIGN IN THE MATOPOS . . . . -MS VII. OUR WORK IN THE MATOPOS . . . . ' . 171 VIII. FIGHTING IN THE MATOPOS 195 IX. THE FINAL OPERATIONS IN THE MATOPOS . . . 228 X. THE SITUATION IN MATABELELAND AND MASHONA- LAND 249 XI. THE DOWNFALL OF UWINI 275 XII. SHANGANI COLUMN THROUGH THE FOREST . . 305 XIII. SHANGANI PATROL RETURN MARCH . . . .326 XIV. IN THE BELINGWE DISTRICT 348 XV. THE DOWNFALL OF WEDZA 372 XVI. CLEARING THE MASHONA FRONTIER . . . .401 XVII. THROUGH MASHONALAND 431 XVIII. THE SITUATION IN RHODESIA 4$8 XIX. AFTER WAR PEACE 477 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A MATABELE WARRIOR MAKING DISPARAGING REMARKS Frontispiece SKETCH MAP 2 BRITANNIA 7 MAFEKING TO BULUWAYO 13 GOING OUT FOR A FIGHT 39 THE UMGUSA FIGHT: 6TH JUNE 55 EIGHT TO ONE 58 THE BITER BIT . 6l INUGU MOUNTAIN STRONGHOLD 69 SCOUT BURNHAM 71 A CAPE BOY SENTRY 74 SILENCING THE ORACLE 83 SOLITARY SCOUTING 91 THE VALUE OF SKIRT-DANCING 95 THE STRONGHOLDS IN THE MATOPOS 103 INUGU MOUNTAIN, A .103 CHILILI VALLEY, B 104 INYANDA'S, SIKOMBO'S, AND UMLUGULU'S POSITIONS, (LOOKING SOUTH) 104 CAUGHT IN THE ACT BY A CAPE BOY 123 "IMPEESA" .128 PREPARING LUNCH 139 A HUMAN SALT-CELLAR 142 THE ATTACK ON BABYAN'S STRONGHOLD: 2OTH JULY . -153 AMATEUR DOCTORING 157 A MATABELE WARRIOR I?6 THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF WAR 180 xiii xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A CHANCE SHOT 185 OUR FIELD TELEGRAPH 1 87 COLONEL PLUMER AND STAFF 193 MY BOY PREPARING BREAKFAST 1 97 RUNNING AFTER A LADY . . 2OI THE BATTLE OF AUGUST $TH 205 AFTER THE FIGHT 211 THE DEATH OF KERSHAW 215 CAPE BOYS BARING THEIR FEET FOR THE ATTACK . . 2l8 IN THE MIDST OF LIFE 221 BRINGING AWAY THE DEAD 223 THE OPERATING TENT 225 SHELLING THE ENEMY OUT OF THE MATOPOS . . .241 A COMFORTABLE CORNER ON AN UNCOMFORTABLE EVENING 246 THE PEACE INDABA WITH THE MATOPO REBELS . . .251 ROUTES TO MATABELELAND AND MASHONALAND . . .261 OUR WORKING KIT 269 GIANTS' PLAYTHINGS 280 COLD AND HUNGRY 291 WARM AND COMFORTABLE 293 NO RESPECTER OF PERSONS 300 THE SHANGANI COLUMN 304 FOLLOWING UP THE SPOOR 313 THE HORSE GUARD 317 "A MERCIFUL MAN," ETC. 324 FRESH HORSE-BEEF 328 A NEW ENEMY 336 ENTERING A CAVE STRONGHOLD 343 " GOD SAVE THE QUEEN ! " 346 FRESH MEAT 354 STROLLING HOME IN THE MORNING 356 "HALT! WHO COMES THERE?" 357 PARLEYING WITH REBELS 365 NATIVE SURGERY 367 WEDZA'S STRONGHOLD 370 PRINCE ALEXANDER OF TECK .381 7TH HUSSARS AT WEDZA'S 385 WEDZA'S KRAAL 388 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xv PAGE "LITTLE MISS TUCKET SAT BY A BUCKET" .... 389 TIRED OUT . 394 A SMELTING FURNACE 397 ANCIENT RUINS 397 A DANGEROUS PRACTICE 403 A ROADSIDE INN IN MATABELELAND 406 A CAVE STRONGHOLD 410 OUR HORSES 415 THE YOUNG IDEA LEARNING TO SHOOT 421 A CHILDREN'S HOSPITAL 426 " DIAMOND " 432 HEADQUARTERS' MESS 433 SPECIMEN OF OLD ROCK-PAINTING BY NATIVES IN MASHONA- LAND 436 BLACK AND WHITE 441 THE OPENING MEET OF THE SALISBURY HOUNDS (AFTER THE WAR) 445 THE COUNTESS RESCUES HER SEWING MACHINE . . . 452 THE SPECIAL SERVICE MOUNTED INFANTRY .... 459 A FORT 461 A WAR-DANCE 465 OUR NATIVE ALLIES 468 MAORI B E 484 A ROADSIDE HOTEL IN MASHONALAND 487 DOLCE FAR NIENTE 499 1' 60 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 CHAPTER I OUTWARD BOUND 2nd May to 2nd June An Attractive Invitation accepted Voyage to the Cape on the R.M.S. Tantallon Castle The Mounted Infantry Cape Town Mafeking Coach Journey through Bechuanaland Protectorate Rinderpest rampant Captain Lugard en route to new Fields of Exploration Khama and his Capital Coaching compared to Yachting Tati Mangwe Pass The Theatre of War. " WAR OFFICE, S.W., -zWi April 1896. " SIR, Passage to Cape Town having been provided for you in the s.s. Tantallon Castle, I am directed to request that you will proceed to Southampton' and embark in the above vessel on the 2nd May by 12.30 p.m., reporting yourself before embarking to the military staff officer superintending the embarkation. 4 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 " You must not ship more than 55 cubic feet. " I am further to request you will acknowledge the receipt of this letter by first post, and inform me of any change in your address up to the date of embarkation. " You will be in command of the troops on board. " I have the honour, etc., " EVELYN WOOD, Q.M.G." What better invitation could one want than that? I accepted it with greatest pleasure. I had had warning that it might come, by tele- graph from Sir Frederick Carrington, who had that day arrived in England from Gibraltar en route to South Africa. He was about to have command of troops in Matabeleland operating against the rebels there. His telegram had reached me at Belfast on Friday afternoon, when we were burying a poor chap in my squadron who had been killed by a fall from his horse. I had a car in waiting, changed my kit, packed up some odds and ends, arranged about disposal of my horses, dogs, and furniture, and just caught the five something train which got me up to town by next day morning. At midday the General sailed for South Africa, but his orders were that OUTWARD BOUND 5 I should follow by next ship ; so, after seeing him off, I had several days in which to kick my heels and live in constant dread of being run over, or otherwise prevented from going after all. But fortune favoured me. 2nd May. Embarked at Southampton in the Tantallon Castle (Captain Duncan) for Cape Town. On board were 480 of the finest mounted infantry that man could wish to see, under Colonel Alderson ; also several other '"details." Then, besides the troops, the usual crowd of passengers, 200 of them German Jews, Cape Dutch, young clerks, etc., going out to seek their fortunes in El Dorado. (You don't want details, do you, of this, my fourth voyage to the Cape ?) \th May. Perfect weather, palatial ship, and fast. Delightful cabin all to myself. Best of company. Poorish food, and a very good time all round. 6tk May. Madeira. You know. Breakfast WITH FRUIT at Reid's Hotel. The flowers and gardens. Scramble up on horses to the convent, up the long, steep, cobbled roads, and the grand toboggan down again in sliding cars. How I would like to live there for a day ! Then back on board, and off to sea by eleven. 6 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 Deck loaded up with Madeira chairs and fruit skins. %th May. Daily parades, inspection of troop decks, tugs of war, concerts on deck, and gradual increase in personal girth from sheer over-eating and dozing. Our only exercise is parade for officers at seven every morning in pyjamas, under a sergeant- instructor, who puts us through most fiendish exercises for an hour, and leaves us there for dead. We just revive in time to put the men through the same course in their turn, stripped to the waist, so that they have dry shirts to put on afterwards. "Knees up!" I'd like to kill him who invented it but it does us all a power of good. loth to i^tk May. Hot and muggy off the coast of Africa from Cape de Verd to Sierra Leone, though out of sight of land. Not many weeks since I was here, homeward bound from Ashanti same old oily sea, with rolling swell, and steamy, hot horizon. 1 4//z May. A passenger, who so far had spoken little except to ask for 4k another whisky," found dead in bed this morning, and buried over- board. Poor chap! He had opened a con versa- OUTWARD BOUND tion with me the night before, and seemed a well-intentioned, gentle soul, although a drunken bore. Now was the best part of the voyage as far as climate went- bright, breezy days and deep blue sea, and the ship just ripping along perfection. i^th to \%th May. - Athletic sports, tab- leaux, concerts, and the fancy dress ball, and our dinner-party to the captain. The ball was inter- esting in showing the diverse taste of diverse At the Fancy Dress Ball on board nationalities. Four ' he belle of J* e shi P appeared as Britannia. 1 he only inconguity Frenchmen and one 2hnet '- who lady so prettily and well got up. The British officer, save in one or two instances (of which, alas ! I wasn't one), could not rise to anything more original than uniform. An ingenious young lady put us all to shame appearing as Britannia, "helmet, BRITANNIA not agree with the wearer's nose : the hat had therefore to be re- versed, and the back-peak was bent for additional comfort. 8 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 shield, and pitchfork too," all complete. (Nose and helmet didn't hit it off, at least yes the nose did hit it (the helmet) off, and the hat had to be worn the wrong way round to allow more room.) \gt/i May. At 4 a.m. I awake with an un- canny feeling. All is silence and darkness. The screw has stopped, the ship lies like a log, the only sound is the plashing of the water pouring from the engine, and occasionally sharp footsteps overhead. And, looking from my port, I see, looming dark against the stars, the long, flat top of grand old Table Mountain its base a haze from which electric lights gleam out and shine along the water. A busy day. No news except that Sir Frederick had gone on up to Mafeking, and I was now to follow. General Goodenough inspected our troops upon the wharf among the Cape carts, niggers, cargo, trollies (drawn by the little Arab-looking horses), and the Cape Town dust. The troops go off by train to Wynberg Camp to await Sir Frederick's orders. Old Cape Town just the same as ever. Same lounging warders and convicts digging docks ; OUTWARD BOUND 9 Malays and snoek fish everywhere. Adderley Street improved with extra turreted, verandahed buildings. The Castle venerable, low, and poky as of yore, and of course under repair. Short visits there, to Government House, and to that beautiful old Dutch house in Strand Street where one learns the Dutch side of the questions of the day. By nine o'clock at night we're all aboard the train for Mafeking a thousand well-remembered faces seem to be there on the platform cheering us away as we steam out into the night. Hard beds, cold night, bumpity flap we go. 2ot/i May. Rattling along over the Karoo. Stony plains with frequent stony hills and moun- tains. The clearest atmosphere, and air like draughts of fresh spring water. Up hill, down dale the train crawling up at foot's pace with heart-breaking, laboured panting of the engine, then down the other side rattling and swaying about like a runaway coster's barrow. Three times in the day we stop at way- side stations where there's a kind of table d* kote prepared much as it is in India, only less so. Very little life along the line, beyond an io THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 occasional waggon with its lengthy team of oxen or of donkeys, creeping at its very slowest pace along the plain. Our own pace, however, is not much to boast about ; we don't go fast, and often stop to execute repairs. The scenery remains much the same, except that the stony plain gives place to white grass veldt sparsely dotted with little thorn-bushes its only beauty (and that is matchless of its kind) the wonderful colours of the distant hills, especially at dawn or sunset. We pass by little groups of iron-roofed houses sanatoria where people come to live or die whose lungs are gone. Kimberley. Miles of mineheads, mounds of refuse, town of tin houses and dust, a filthy re- freshment room, and on we go. 22nd May. At last, after three nights and two days jogging along in the train, we rattle into Mafeking at 6 a.m. "Into Mafeking?" Well, there's a little tin (corrugated iron) house and a goods shed to form the station ; hundreds of waggons and mounds of stores covered with tarpaulins, and on beyond a street and market square of low-roofed tin houses. Mafeking is at present the railway terminus. The OUTWARD BOUND n waggons and the goods are waiting to go north to Matabeleland, but here they're stranded for want of transport, since all the oxen on the road are dying fast from rinderpest. However, every train is bringing up more mules and donkeys to use in their stead. Near to the station is the camp of the 7th Hussars and mounted infantry of the West Riding and the York and Lancaster Regiments. These troops are waiting here in case they may be wanted in Matabeleland. Thus Mafeking is crowded. Sir Frederick is here, and we, the staff, take up our quarters for a few days in a railway carriage on a siding. The staff consists of Lieutenant - Colonel Bridge, A.S.C., as Deputy Assistant Adjutant - General (for Transport and Supply), Captain Vyvyan, Brigade Major ; Lieu- tenant V. Ferguson, A.D.C. ; my billet is Chief Staff Officer. While here at Mafeking we are the guests of Mr. Julius Weil, the genius in both senses of 'this part of South Africa. He works the machinery of transport and supply of the Chartered Company ; his " stores " have in them everything that man could want to buy. " Weil's Rations " are known half the world over as the best tinned 12 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 foods for travellers ; he owns the best of dogs and horses ; he is Member of the Legislative Assembly of the Cape : and withal he is young and lively ! 2$rd May. Our only news from Matabeleland is that Cecil Rhodes has safely got across from the East Coast, through Mashonaland, to Bulu- wayo, with a column under Beal. And that Plumer's force, specially raised here in the south, had got within touch of Buluwayo without fighting. Rhodes had said the neck of the rebellion now was broken and with it go the necks of all our hopes. But still we shove along. Packed up our kits, and in the afternoon embarked, the four of us (the General, Vyvyan, Ferguson, and self), in the coach for Buluwayo. The coach a regular Buffalo- Bill- Wild- West- Dead- wood affair ; hung by huge leather springs on a heavy, strong-built under-carriage ; drawn by ten mules. Our baggage and three soldier-servants on the roof; two coloured drivers (one to the reins, the other to the whip). Inside are four transverse seats, each to hold three, thus making- twelve "insides." Luckily we were only four, and so we had some room to stretch our legs. We each settled into a corner, and off we went, amid the cheers of the inhabitants of Mafeking. One, more eager than the rest, a former officer of Sir OUTWARD BOUND Frederick's in the Bechuanaland Police, jumped on, and came with us for thirty miles, trusting to chance to take him back again. That night we reached Pitsani, a single road- side inn, the start- ing-place of Jameson's raid into the Trans- vaal. We stopped, and supped, and slept, and started on at day- break. This stop- ping to sleep was but a luxury which we did not Come in MAFEKING TO BULUWAYO Ten days and nights by coach. for after- wards along the road. 2/^th May. Does it bore you, a daily record of this uneventful journey ? Well, if it does, you easily can skip it, which is more than we could do, alas \ All day over a sandy track, on open, white i 4 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 grass veldt, which generally changed into hilly country, dotted with thorn-bushes. All waterless. The mules, of which we get a change every ten or twelve miles, in very poor condition so our pace is very slow. Reached Ramoutsa after dark, after 65-mile drive. Tin hotel, and large native kraal town (said to have 10,000 inhabitants in its mass of beehive huts). Boyne living here ; a well-known hunter on the Kalehari, and had shot with " Ginger" Gordon (i5th Hussars). A native " reed dance" was going on in the "stadt" (as they call the native town), every man blowing a reed -whistle which gives two notes, and, played in numbers, gives a quaint, harmonious sound. The men dance in a circle, stamping the time ; the women waggle round and round the circle, outside it. Alto- gether a very "or'nery" performance, especially as all were dressed in European store- clothes. 2^lh May. Struggling on with weak mules to Gaberones (18 miles in 5^ hours). And on again. Every mile now began to show the grisly, stinking signs of rinderpest. Dead oxen varied occasionally with dead mules the variety did not affect the smell that remained the same. OUTWARD BOUND 15 Occasionally we passed a waggon abandoned owing to the loss of animals. The road at times was hard, but generally soft red sand. The scenery had a sameness of level, white, grass land and thorn-bush. Reached a big kraal (Matchudi's) of 700 inhabitants, at midnight. Deep sandy road. It took our fresh (!) team over half an hour to get us outside the village. Our pace was now so slow, and the whacking of the whip so painful merely to listen to (happily, the mules don't seem to feel it half so much as we), that we did much of the journey walking on ahead. Sun baking hot, and flies as thick as dust, and that was bad. 27//z May. By walking with a gun we man- aged to get a good supply of partridges and guinea-fowl as we went along. To-day we passed the downward coach, in which was Scott-Mon- tague, M.P. He gave us lots of information ; and we felt we were not having the worst of the journey, when we saw him packed in with twelve other "insides," one of whom a woman, and another her baby, which wasrit very well ! Reached Pala a group of stores at mid- night. Here were collected some two hundred waggons, stopped by loss of all their oxen from 16 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 rinderpest. Three thousand two hundred beasts dead at this one place ! i%th May. We trekked along all day. Bush country ; lots of partridges. One of our mules died on the road. Passed through Captain Lugard's camp about i i p.m. Only Hicks, his manager, awake. He had thirteen waggons, and nearly two hundred mules and donkeys. He is taking an exploring expedition of eleven white men to the Lake N 'Garni district, prepared to remain away two years if necessary. 29^ May. Outspanned, 4.30 a.m., and had our first wash since starting, in liquid mud from water- holes. The road was now through heavy sand. We walked over 20 miles of our journey on foot. Reached Palapchwe (Khama's capital) at mid- night. Found a dozen telegrams awaiting us, describ- ing fights round Buluwayo, such as put some hopes into us again. Here we slept in beds! $oth May. Before breakfast, who should stroll in, all by himself, but Khama ! Thin, alert, and looking quite young, in European clothes. He had not much to say. He knew me OUTWARD BOUND 17 as George's brother, and asked about the baby niece. His town is certainly well-ordered, and he manages everything himself. There are three or four European stores ; otherwise the town is an agglomeration of kraals, and thus stands in several sections, each under its own headman. It is situated on an undercliff of a bush-grown ridge ; is fairly well supplied with water; and commands a splendid view over 100 miles of country. Khama had moved his people here only a few years ago, from Shoshong, which used to be his capital farther west. He rules his country effectively. No liquor may be sold, even among white men ; and all along the roacl while in his country we found the rinderpest carcasses had been burned. But he might with advantage do some- thing for the road. Leaving Palapchwe at 10 a.m., we bumped and jolted down the stony hill in a manner calculated to mash up not only the coach and its insides, but their insicles as well. Any person or persons afflicted with liver should go and live a week at Palapchwe, and drive down this hill daily once a day would be enough ! o And then beyond across the plains, grown i8 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 with mopani bush the road was all deep sand. We merely crept along. But still we had broken the back of our journey Mafeking to Palla . . 225 miles Palla to Palapchwe . . no ,, Palapchwe to Tati . . 107 ,, Tati to Buluwayo . . 115 Total . . 557 ,, A certain sameness of scenery and want of water all the time, but compensated for by the splendid climate, the starry nights, and the " flannel-shirt " life generally. Every one of the few wayfarers, in waggons or otherwise, along the road is interesting, either as a hunter, gentleman-labourer, or enterprising trader. They all look much the same : Boer hat, flannel shirt, and breeches so sunburnt that it is hard at first to tell whether the man is English, half-caste, or light Kaffir. One we met to-day, creeping along with a crazy, two-wheeled cart drawn by four donkeys. He himself had only been two months in South Africa : came from Brighton. Heard that food and drink were at a premium in Buluwayo ; so had loaded up this drop-in-the-ocean of a cargo OUTWARD BOUND 19 of meal and champagne, and was steadily plodding along with it to make his fortune. We lightened his load by two pints, and weightened his pocket with two pounds. And we afterwards heard he sold his whole consignment at a very good profit long before he got to Matabeleland. 31^ May. All clay and all night we go rock- ing and pitching, rolling and Ascending" along in the creaking, groaning old coach : just exactly like being in the cabin of a small yacht in bad weather and the occasional sharp swish of the thorn- bushes along the sides and leathern curtains sounds just like angry seas. Then frequently she heels over to a very jumpy angle, as if a squall had struck her. One of these days the old thing will go over. Strange that in all this endless, uninhabited, and bushy wilderness there is scarcely any game. We carry our own food, chiefly tinned things, with us, and at convenient outspans (when we are changing mules) we boil our kettle and have a meal of sorts and thoroughly enjoy it especially the evening meal, under the stars. \stjune. Reached Tati Gold Fields, i a.m. A collection of three or four tin stores, one of them an hotel, where we rolled into bed for a short rest. We breakfasted with Mr. Vigers, the Resident Commissioner. Tati is a British Protectorate of 20 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 older standing than the Chartered Company, and independent of it. It has its own administrative machinery, a mining population of whites and blacks and "wasters," and yet not a single policeman ! " Wasters ? " oh, it's a South African word, and most expressive ; applies to the specious loafer who is so common in this country, the country teems with him in high grades as well as low, hinc multcz lacrima in the history of South African enterprises. Twenty miles beyond Tati we crossed the dry bed of the Ramakan River, the border of Matabeleland. Close by the river stands the ruin of a "prehistoric" fort, built of trimmed stones. There are several similar forts about the country, offshoots, of the famed Zimbabye ruins near Victoria. We nearly killed our General to-day in crossing a dry river bed. The descent into the drift was so steep that the wheelers could not hold back the coach, so our drivers sent them down it at a gallop. Half-way down there was a sill of rock off which the coach took a flying leap into the sand below. W r e inside were chucked about like peanuts in a pot, and Sir Frederick was thrown against the roof and his head and neck were stiff for some time afterward. OUTWARD BOUND 21 Had dinner (!) at a roadside shanty " Hotel," where the waiter smoked while he served us. ind June. Signs of war and of colonisation at last. We reached Mangwe, 6.30 a.m. An earthwork fort with a waggon encampment outside it. In this laager were all the women and children, chiefly Dutch, from farms around ; the men acting as garrison under command of Van Rooyen and Lee, two well-known hunters, who were here in Lobengula's time. In the fort they showed with pride some half a dozen Matabele prisoners they had captured in a fight. I looked well at them, fearing that they might be the only enemy that I should see. Happily I might have spared my eyes. We now went through the Mangwe Pass. The road here winds its way through a tract of rocky hills and koppies, which are practically the tail of the Matopo range, running eastward hence for sixty miles. It would have been a nasty place to tackle had the Matabele held it. They might easily here have cut off Buluwayo from the outer world, but their M'limo, or oracle, had told them to leave this one road open as a bolt-hole for the whites in Matabeleland. They had expected that when the rebellion broke out, the whites would avail themselves en masse of this 22 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 line of escape ; they never reckoned that instead they would sit tight and strike out hard until more came crowding up the road to their assistance. The scenery is striking among these fantastic mounts of piled-up granite boulders, with long grass and bushy glades between. For ten miles the road runs between these koppies, then emerges on the open downs that constitute the Matabele plateau, the watershed, 4000 feet in altitude, between the Zambesi and Limpopo. Now we come to forts every six or eight miles along the road for protection of the traffic. They are each manned by about thirty men of the local defence force, men in the usual shirt-sleeve costume, but fine serviceable - looking troops. Some forts are the usual earthwork kind ; others are such as would make a sapper snort, but are none the less effective for all that They are just the natural koppie, or pile of rocks, aided by art in the way of sandbag parapets and thorn-bush abattis fences, easily prepared and easily held. One we came to had been threatened by Matabele the previous night, and some rebels had been reported near the road this same morning, so things were getting a little more exciting for us. By and by we met a troop of mounted men OUTWARD BOUND 23 twenty-five miles out from Buluwayo. These had come out to act as escort. At first glance, to one fresh from Aldershot or the Curragh, they looked a pretty ragged lot on thin and un- kempt ponies ; but their arms and bandoliers were all in first-rate order, and one could see they were the men to go anywhere and do any- thing that might be wanted in the fighting and campaigning line. However, we did not take them with us, Sir Frederick telling them to follow on at leisure, a couple of scouts from a fort being sent ahead of us at the worst part to see that the road was clear. The coach in which Lord Grey, the Adminis- trator, had come a short time before us had been seen and pursued by Matabele, but we had no excitement, and soon after midnight we rolled into Buluwayo. CHAPTER II STATE OF AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND Buluwayo Too many Heads may spoil the" Campaign The Situa- tion Origin of the Rebellion The Power of the M'limo The Outbreak of Rebellion Defence Measures and Rescue Patrols Native Police Sorties from Buluwayo inflict Blows on the Enemy MacFarlane's Attack relieves the Pressure on the Town Plumer's Relief Force continues the driving back of the Enemy Sir Frederick Carrington's Plan of Campaign. ^lne. Unpacked ourselves at i a.m. from our lairs in the corners of the coach, with some- thing akin to regret at leaving the old thing after ten days and nights in her. But it was a blessing to bed down in a house, and the bath on waking was worth gold. (Bathroom was the verandah in the main street.) Our lodging was next door to the club build- ings, now used as a barrack for Grey's Scouts, and defended with a small bastion of tin biscuit- cases and sacks filled with earth. By breakfast- time I had investigated Buluwayo. AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 25 A red earth flat laid out by ditches, in blocks and streets, over two miles long and half a mile wide. The centre portion of the town well filled with buildings, all single-storeyed, some brick, some tin, some " paper " (i.e. wire-wove, ready-made in England, sent out in pieces), all with verandahs. The more outlying blocks only boasting a house or shanty here and there. Most of the houses built with a view to ultimate extension ; e.g. one consisted of, evidently, the scullery, back kitchen, and " offices," the front to be added later, when better times came round. The gardens, streets, and vacant lots richly sown with broken bottles, meat tins, rags, and paper ; scarcely a garden, shrub, or tree in the place. The houses generally, if they are not " Bottle stores " (i.e. public-houses), are either dry-goods stores or mining syndicate offices. Everywhere enterprise and rough elements of civilisation, not forgetting the liquor branch. Half a mile southward of the town lies a bush- covered rising ground, on which are a good number of " villas," with their two or three acres of bush fenced in to form their gardens in the future. At present they are deserted, the owners living in town while the Matabele are about. In the centre of the town is the market square 26 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 with its market house a big brick building- which is now used as the main refuge and defence of the town. Round the market house is drawn up a rectangular laager of waggons, built up with sacks full of earth to form a bullet-proof wall. Outside the laager the ground for twenty or thirty yards is rendered impassable by means of " entanglements " of barbed wire and a fence of the same, as well as by a thick sprinkling of broken bottles all over the ground itself. Up on the roof of the hall is a look-out turret, from which, by touching a button, an observer can at will fire any of the electric mines which have been laid in the various approaches to the market square. Although most of the people who have houses in Buluwayo are now living in their homes again, there are numbers of families from suburban or outlying farms who are still living in the laager. And at the western end of the town is another smaller laager of waggons round a house, in which a number of Boer farmers, with their families, are living. We had a very nice house ' commandeered " (i.e. taken over by Government at a fair rental), and handed over to us for our use as a dwelling- house, ready supplied with furniture, etc.; and then AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 27 the offices of one of the gold-mining companies were similarly commandeered and assigned to us for offices. In a very short time we had settled down and were hard at work and there was lots to do. Of course our first business was to interview all the heads of affairs, and so to form an idea of the situation. Sir Richard Martin (with whom I had served previously, when on the mission to Swaziland, under Sir F. de Winton) is Deputy Commissioner, appointed since Jameson's raid to regulate the use and moves of the armed forces in the Chartered Company's territories, so as to prevent any further adventurous departures on their part. Lord Grey is Administrator of the Government of the whole country of Rhodesia, which includes Matabeleland and Mashonaland, etc. a tract of country 750,000 square miles in extent, or equal to Spain, France, and Italy together. Mr. Cecil Rhodes, while bearing no official position, practically represents the management of the country as well as of the Company, and his advice and experience are of the greatest value, since all the other "heads" are new arrivals in the country. And it is in this number of heads that our danger would apparently, and our difficulty will most certainly 28 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 be. Virtually, of course, the General is the head while active operations are in progress, but he has to cut his cloth according to the style approved by the Deputy Commissioner, according to the expense sanctioned by the Administrator, and according to the general design required by the High Commissioner, while not totally disregarding the local experience of Mr. Rhodes and others. Altogether, the principle of strategy, which directs that " the General in command should merely have his objective pointed out to him, and a free hand given him," seems to be pretty well trenched upon by the present arrangement, though, under the circumstances, it could not well be helped. This, however, has always been the case in the history of South African warfare, frequently with fatal results, so it is nothing new : the only thing is to make the best of it, and pull together as much as possible. And this is what we find is the situation of affairs. Matabeleland had been captured by the Char- tered Company's troops, acting from Mashona- land, in 1893, an d Lobengula driven to his death as a fugitive. Since then the country had been governed by the Administrator and his magistrates and native commissioners in AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 29 the various districts into which the country was divided. By 1896 the white population had increased to nearly four thousand, guarded by an armed police force distributed about the country. At the end of 1895 the greater part of this police was taken from Rhodesia, in order to take part in Jameson's raid into the Transvaal. . Just about the same time the terrible scourge of rinderpest came down upon the land. Three years before, it had made a start in Somaliland, and had steadily and persistently worked its way down the continent of Africa and it now crossed the mighty barrier of the Zambesi, and was sweeping over the great cattle-country, Matabele- land. With a view to checking its ravages, the Government took all possible steps for preventing the transmission of infection, and, amongst others, that of slaughtering sound cattle was adopted. This procedure was perfectly incomprehensible to the native mind, and before long it was mooted among them that the white man's idea in slaugh- tering the cattle was to reduce the native to the lowest straits, and to starve him to death. The natives had only been very partially beaten in the war in 1893, and the memory of it rankled strongly in their mind. They had thought 30 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 the war was merely a passing raid, and it was only now they were realising that the whites had come to stay, and to oust them from their land. They were only waiting for their opportunity to rise and drive out their invaders. Then, ever since the war, there had been a partial drought over the land, and what little crops there were had been devoured by unprece- dented flights of locusts. All these misfortunes tended to spread among the people a general feeling of sullen discontent. And this was increased to a feeling of bitter resentment against the whites, because they, the Matabele, found that the one remedy for want which in the old days they had been wont to ply so readily namely, the wholesale raiding of their weaker neighbours was under the new regime denied them. Nowadays, not only was every such raid prevented or punished as unlawful, but even in their home life their liberties were interfered with, and trifling thefts of cattle from a neigh- bour's herd, or the quiet putting away of a lazy slave or of a quarrelsome stepmother, were now treated as crimes by policemen of their own blood and colour, but creatures of the white man, strut- ting among them with as much consequence and power as any of the royal inclunas. AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 31 These things developed their hatred against the whites, and served as plausible reasons for their conduct when the chiefs came to be ques- tioned later on in giving in their surrender. Meanwhile, the chiefs and headmen, hoping to get back their ancient powers, fomented this feel- ing for all that they were worth. And they had a ductile mass to handle, for to the vast majority of their people the question of rights and wrongs was an unknown quantity, but the lust of blood especially blood of white men, when, as they anticipated, it could be got with little danger to themselves was an irresistible incentive. The withdrawal of the armed forces from the country for the Transvaal raid gave them their opportunity. The Matabele have no regular religion beyond a reverence for the souls of ancestors, and for an oracle-cleity adopted from the Mashonas, whom they call the M'limo. The M'limo is an invisible god, who has three priests about the country, one in the north-east beyond Inyati, one in the south in the Matopo hills, and one south-west near Mangwe. The pure-bred Matabele, as well as the aboriginal natives, the Makalakas and the Maholis, all go to consult these priests of the M'limo as oracles, and place a blind belief in all they say. In addition 32 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 to the three high priests, there are four warrior- chiefs of the M'limo. These men working in with the priests brought about the outbreak of rebellion. Three of these warrior-indunas are Matabele, the fourth Uwini heads the Makalakas. Choosing well their opportunity, when, as they thought, all the white fighting men had left the country, and none but women, children, and dot- ards were left behind, they spread the message through the land with that speed which only native messages can take. They called on all the tribes to arm themselves, and to assemble on a certain moon round three sides of Buluwayo. The town was to be rushed in the night, and the whites to be slaughtered without quarter to any. The road to Mangwe was to be left conspicuously open, so that any whites who might escape their notice would take the hint and fly from the country. Buluwayo was not to be destroyed, as it would serve again as the royal kraal for Lo- bengula, who had returned to life again. After the slaughter at Buluwayo the army would break up into smaller impis, and go about the land to kill all outlying farmers and to loot their farms. The Mlimo further promised that the white men's bullets would, in their flight, be changed to water, and their cannon-shells would similarly turn into eggs. AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 33 The plan was not a bad one, but in one im- portant particular it miscarried, and so lost to the Kafirs the very good chance they had of wiping out the white men. About 24th March the outbreak began but prematurely. In their eagerness for blood some bands of rebels, acting contrary to their instruc- tions, worked their wicked will on outlying settlers and prospectors before attempting the night sur- prise on Buluwayo. That was their mistake it gave the alarm to the whites in town and enabled them to prepare their defence in good time. Among the Insiza Hills, some thirty-five miles east of Buluwayo, on that fateful day, seven white men with their coloured servants were butchered at Eclkins Store, and at the Nellie Reef Mad- docks a miner was murdered, while a few miles farther on a peaceable farming family were brutally done to death. The white-haired old grandfather, the mother, two grown-up girls, a boy, and three little yellow-haired children -- all bashed and mangled. At another place a bride, just out from the peace and civilisation of home, had her happy dream suddenly wrecked by a rush of savages into the farmstead. Her husband was struck down, but she managed to escape to the next farm, some four 34 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 miles distant only to find its occupants already fled. Ignorant of the country and of the people, the poor girl gathered together what tinned food she could carry, and, making her way to the river, she made herself a grassy nest among the rocks, where she hoped to escape detection. For a few terrible days and nights she existed there, till the Matabele came upon her tracks, and shortly stoned her to death another added to their tale of over a hundred and fifty victims within a week. The only comfort is that their gruesome fate saved many other lives, for the news spread fast, and as more reports from every side came in of murdered whites, those in Buluwayo realised that the rising was a general one, and merciless. They promptly took their measures for defence. The laagers were formed, as I have described, to accommodate the seven hundred women and children in the place ; while the eight hundred men were organised in troops, and armed and horsed in an incredibly short space of time. Patrols were promptly sent out to bring in outlying farmers, and to gather information as to the rebels' moves and numbers. Ere long the rebel forces were closing round Buluwayo. North, east, and south they lay, to the number of seven thousand at the least. Through- AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 35 out the country their numbers must have been but little under ten to thirteen thousand. Nearly two thousand of them were armed with Martini- Henry rifles. A hundred of the Native Police deserted, and joined them with their Win- chester repeaters. Many of them owned Lee- Metfords, illicitly bought, stolen, or received in return for showing gold-reefs to unscrupulous prospectors. And numbers of them owned old obsolete elephant guns, Tower muskets, and blunderbusses. So that in addition to their national armament of assegais, knobkerries, and battle-axes, the rebels were well supplied with firearms and also with ammunition. In saying that the Native Police deserted and joined the rebels, I must in justice add that it was chiefly the younger members of the force who did so : the old hands remained loyal, and though at first they were disarmed as a precautionary measure, they proved most useful to our side later on, though very few in numbers. Much has been said against them as having been the cause of the revolt, through their overbearing conduct. I am perfectly convinced that the rebellion would have occurred just the same had there been no such body as the Native Police in existence. At the same time, I don't mean to say that they did not 36 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 abuse their powers. I should think that they most probably did, but that is no reason why they should incontinently be done away with. I don't see, for one thing, how proper government of the natives is ^oino; to be carried out without a native o o police : the only thing is that the force must be very closely and effectively commanded. The same difficulty has been encountered, and has thus been dealt with, by us in Natal, in India, in West Africa, everywhere, in fact, where natives form a large proportion of the population. But I am wandering from my point into dis- cussion and argument, which are not in my line. I am supposed to be giving you a resume of what had been happening up to the time of Sir Frederick's taking over command in Matabele- land. Directly after the outbreak, Colonel Napier, with his usual energy, lost no time in getting together a few men, and, with a party of sixty, he went off to the Shangani, thirty miles north- east of Buluwayo, and brought into safety over forty white settlers. At the same time, Captain the Hon. Maurice Gifford, with forty-four men, made a dash to Cumming's Store, through difficult country in the Insiza Hills, fifty miles east of Buluw r ayo, and AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 37 rescued over thirty people, losing one man killed and six wounded. Captain F. C. Selous raised a troop of forty mounted men the same day, and made a bold reconnaissance southward of Buluwayo for thirty miles, to the Matopos. Three days later (29th March), Captain Mac- Farlane, with thirty men, went out to Jenkins' Store, and relieved Pittendrigh's party, who were hard pressed there. One man was killed and two wounded in this affair. On the 4th April, Maurice Gifford again went out, with 140 men, to Fonsecas, just north of Buluwayo, where he was hotly attacked by the enemy, losing four men killed and seven wounded. He himself lost his arm on this occasion, and Cap- tain Lumsden, who took his place, was mortally wounded. MacFarlane, with sixty men, relieved him. Brand and Niekerk took a strong patrol down to the mining camp in the Gwanda district, to find the miners had already safely got away south. On their return journey this patrol was attacked and very nearly cut off in passing through the eastern end of the Matopos. Out of their total of a hundred they lost five killed and fifteen wounded, besides thirty horses killed ; but with sheer hard fighting they got through in the end. 38 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 Then, when the enemy closed on Buluwayo, as if to swamp it, Bissett led the garrison out in a sortie on 22nd April. There was a stubborn fight, in which neither side gained any ultimate decisive advantage, but it was remarkable for the fact that perhaps in no fight in history have there been so many deeds of gallantry performed among so small a body of men. No less than three men have since been recommended for the Victoria Cross for separate acts of heroism in this fight. Three days later, Captain "Mickey" MacFar- lane an old friend of ours in the Qth Lancers again led out the Buluwayo Field Force, and this time dealt the enemy a very heavy blow, such as changed the aspect of affairs, and relieved Bulu- wayo from any immediate danger of being rushed. In these early fights and patrols the Bulu- wayo Force had lost twenty men killed and fifty wounded, while over two hundred settlers in surrounding districts had been murdered. Mean- while, a relief force was being organised at Salis- bury in Mashonaland, three hundred miles to the north, under Colonel Beal, and another at Kim- berley and Mafeking, nearly six hundred miles to the south, under Colonel Plumer of the York and Lancaster Regiment. In the last week in May these two forces appeared in the neighbourhood E- O ! o g 39 AFFAIRS IN MATABELELAND 41 of Buluwayo from their opposite directions, Cecil Rhodes arriving with that from the north ; Lord Grey arriving about the same time as Colonel Plumer's from the south. Meanwhile, Colonel Napier, with the bulk of the Buluwayo Force, had gone out to meet the Salisbury Force, and in combination with it did much to clear the country east of Buluwayo. [P.S. A most interesting detailed account of the outbreak, and of these early operations in- cluding the acts of individual gallantry on the part of Baxter, Crewe, Henderson, Grey, and others- will be found in Captain F. C. Selous' book, Sun- shine and Storm in Rhode sia^\ Colonel Plumer had raised, organised, and equipped his force of eight hundred Cape Colony men and horses in an incredibly short space of time ; but that is one beauty of South Africa that it teems with good material for forming a fight- ing force at a moment's notice. Nor did the "M.R.F." (Matabele Relief Force), as Plumer's corps was styled, lose any time in getting. to work after its arrival at Buluwayo. For three days (23rd-26th May) it was hammering at the various impis threatening Buluwayo on the north and east with complete success. Thus, when we arrived a week later, we found 42 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 that the immediate neighbourhood of Buluwayo had been cleared of enemy, but the impis were still hanging about in the offing, and required to be further broken up. The General's plan, accordingly, was to send out three strong columns simultaneously to the north-east, north, and north-west, for a distance of some sixty to eighty miles, to clear that country of rebels, and to plant forts which should prevent their reassembly at their centres there, and would afford protection to those natives who were dis- posed to be friendly. The southern part of the country, namely, the Matopo Hills, was afterwards to be tackled by the combined forces on their return from the north. Such was the situation in the beginning of June. And now I'll continue the diary. CHAPTER III OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO Organisation of Supply and Transport The Volunteer Troops Experiences on Patrol Sir Charles Metcalfe reports the Enemy just outside the Town The first sight of the Enemy Fight on the Umgusa River, 6th June Maurice "Gifford Reconnaissance of the Inugu Stronghold- Burnham the Scout Rebellion breaks out in Mashonaland The Difficulties of Supply The Humours of Official Correspondence Colonel Spreckley writ down an Ass Colonials would serve under Sir Frederick Carrington, but not under the ordinary Imperial Officer. 4t/i June. Office work from early morning till late at night. To say there is plenty of work to be done does not describe the mountain looming before us. The more we investigate into such o questions as the force and strong points of the enemy, and the resources at our command where- with to tackle him, the more huge and hopeless seems the problem. Our force is far too small adequately to cope with so numerous and fairly well-armed an enemy, with well - nigh impregnable strongholds to fall *~ 43 44 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 back on, and with his supply and transport train ample and effective as furnished by his wives and children. Our force, bold as it is, is far too small, and yet we cannot increase it by a man, for the simple reason that if we did, we could not find the wherewithal to feed it. There is practically no reserve of food in the country, rinderpest has suddenly destroyed the means of bringing it, and here we lie, separated from the railway by a sandy road 587 miles in length! Nor on the spot has any adequate provision been made to meet the future wants of the small force we have. All the food - stuffs in the place have been brought together, and the commissariat organisation and system has so far amounted to 'showing to an officer requiring rations for his troop a pile of stores, with "There you are! Take what you want." One of the first steps has been to telegraph for Colonel Bridge, who had been left at Mafeking, to come and organise a system of transport and supply. Then we have to make a medical staff and an ordnance department. In the meantime three columns are being organised, and such provision as is possible is being made for their supply for patrols of about OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 45 three weeks' duration, to the northward of Bulu- wayo. And we hope to start them off to-morrow. During the brief intervals from office work for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, one has most interesting glimpses of the sunny street, crowded with throngs of "swashbucklers," each man more picturesque than his neighbour. Cowboy hat, with puggree of the colour of his corps, short-sleeved canvas shirt, cord breeches, and puttees, with bandolier across his chest, and pistol on his hip, is approxi- mately the kit of every man you meet. The strong brown arms and sunburnt faces, the bold and springy gait, all show them soldiers, ready-made and ripe for any kind of work. Good shots and riders, and very much at home upon the veldt, no wonder that they form a "useful" crew especially when led, as they are, by men of their own kidney. Among the leaders are Micky MacFarlane, erstwhile the dandy lancer, now a bearded buc- caneer and good soldier all the time ; Selous, the famous hunter-pioneer of Matabeleland ; Napier and Spreckley, the light-hearted blade, who is nevertheless possessed of profound and business- like capacity ; Beal, Laing, and Robertson, cool, level - headed Scotsmen with a military training ; George Grey, " Charlie " White, and Maurice 46 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 Gifford, for whom rough miners and impetuous cowboys work like well-broken hounds. Indeed, the Volunteer troops seem to have thoroughly adapted themselves to the routine of soldiering, as well as to the more exciting demands of the field of action. Night guards, daily standing to arms before sunrise, patrols, and other uncongenial duties are all carried out with greatest regularity ; but the following amusing account of a morning patrol which appeared in the Matabele Times this week shows some of the drawbacks under which they carry on their work : "Standing to arms at 4 a.m. is not in itself a joy, but its cruelty is accentuated when the troop orderly takes that opportunity of informing you that you are to leave the laager at 5.30 and go on patrol to Matabele Wilson's, in company of three other unfortunates, for the purpose of ascer- taining whether the road be clear travelling. " On the occasion of which I write this was my fate, and our little party, with noses that needed constant attention with a handkerchief, and numbed fingers clasping cold rifles, stood shivering outside the stable gates, viewing life despondently and swearing at the remount staff. All things, pleasant and otherwise, have an end, and at last, OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 47 in response to frequent knocks, the gate opened, and we followed a depressed-looking official to where four alleged horses, with drooping heads and downcast mien, disconsolately champed the half-ton of rusty iron \\hich South Africans call a bit, and dreamed of oats. Each man chose a horse, and with the assistance of sundry stable- boys induced him to leave his empty manger and move wearily out into the street. Here great care was necessary in mounting, as it was yet to be ascertained whether the crocks could stand up straight under the weight of a rider, but at last we fell in, and by dint of spur and rein reached the laager. " The corporal in charge of the patrol then went to wake up the orderly officer and get his orders, and my horse edged sideways towards the wind- mill ; he wanted something to lean against. By and by out comes the corporal, we awakened our mounts, and started. ' Our orders are to go out to Wilson's and meet a patrol from the Khami River, then return to town,' and 'You're not to gallop all the way,' added the corporal. We at once said we wouldn't, and just then one of the horses fell down in endeavouring to step over a gutter. We dismounted and put the turn-out on its feet again, and proceeded. 48 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 ''Just past the Dutch laager some one said, * By Jove, the laager smells peculiar/ Another man said, 'Yes; the big laager is just the same.' We passed a bush and struck the source of the odour, a dead ox ; and promptly apologised to the laagers. " All went well for a mile or so, and the corporal says, ' Let's have a trot.' We rammed in the spurs and shook the reins ; one horse started a feeble lolloping trot which he maintained for at least twenty yards before he fell down ; two horses shook their heads and whisked their tails, but took no further notice of the appeal for more speed ; and the fourth, a grey, with fine prominent points, stopped dead short. We all passed a few remarks about the gentlemen who had selected the horses for duty, and resumed our wonted 'crawl march.' " More rinderpest, and my horse made a move- ment as if to lean against the smell, but it was too strong for him, and he moved on, to prevent being knocked over. On passing dead horses and cattle we used to draw in a long breath and endeavour to spur up a trot that would carry us out of range, before we were again compelled to breathe or ' bust,' but our horses used generally to land us in the middle of the stink and then pull up. You would see a man get black in the face trying to OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 49 hold his breath, and at last have to burst out and refill his lungs with the very richest of the odour. " Passing the remains of the kraal where the transport riders, Potgieter and his mate, were murdered, we saw the heaps of earth piled over the victims' bodies. Here one of our number dismounted to light his pipe. This was the last we saw of him ; he never caught up, though we only walked our horses ; and he finally rolled up at the fort, half an hour after we had arrived, on foot, having tied his horse on to a tree. He said he found it considerably easier walking. Dawson's Fort is splendidly placed, and commands a fine view of the surrounding country ; the walls are built up with stone topped with two courses of sandbags, shelter for the garrison being afforded by sails ; permanent running water passes the foot of the hill. " A number of donkey waggons were outspanned on the road beneath the fort, and out by Wilson's house, where now a hotel flourishes with the success usual in Matabeleland, we could see the coolies working in the gardens, planting to renew the crops of vegetables reaped with zeal and thor- oughness by troops and travellers evidently determined that the enemy shouldn't have them any way. Rinderpest is very much in evidence 50 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 round the fort, and oxen lie dead literally in troops, long regular lines of carcasses lying together. " At the foot of the hill leading to the fort one of the horses gave out altogether, having clean knocked up in five miles of travelling, the whole of which was done at a walking pace. " If the loudly expressed wishes of the unfor- tunate wight who had to walk and carry a heavy rifle from Wilson's to Buluwayo under a hot sun, have any effect on the official who was responsible for sending horses barely strong enough to move their own shadows on a duty in the course of which speed might have been necessary to save their riders' lives, he will some day find himself on a weak horse as per sample supplied to us, and a score of Matabeles with sharp assegais and a taste for fancy experiments in the torture line after him, with the certainty that he will have to get off and try his individual sprinting powers before reaching a place of safety. Not that there could be the least spice of danger between here and Wilson's, but that the official who would allow horses which to the most unversed eye are only fit for the sick lines to leave the stable at all, would just as readily send the same variety of mounts on hazardous service." June. Colonel Plumer's column, 460 OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 51 strong, moved off to the country of the Guai River, north-west of Buluwayo. And Macfarlane's column of 400 went away to the north. Spreckley's column was to make its start next clay, but the unexpected happened to prevent it. At ten o'clock at night, just as Sir Frederick was thinking we had done enough office work for the day, Sir Charles Metcalfe and the American scout Burnham rode up and came into the office, looking a bit dishevelled and torn. They had been riding out in the evening to visit Colonel Beal's column from Salisbury, which was camped about three miles out of the town. Seeing fires close to the road, and near to where they thought the camp must be, they had ridden up to them, and found themselves in the camp of a large impi of the enemy ! They only escaped by making their way home by a detour through the bush. The news seemed almost too improbable to be true, and yet the bearers of it were not men to get excited and bring in a false report. So I telephoned to a piquet we had at Govern- ment House (about two miles out of town) to send a patrol to investigate. But the subsequent re- ports were not wholly satisfactory, and I roused up Spreckley in the middle of the night to show 52 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 me the way, and we rather upset the sleep of the inhabitants of Government House by appearing there to make further inquiries at about three in the morning-. Nothing satisfactory to be learned there ; so back to Buluwayo, and, getting a fresh horse and a police-trooper as guide, I went out again towards Deal's camp. There, in the early dawn, I was at last able to see the enemy clearly enough. On the opposite bank of the Umgusa River they were camped in long lines, fires burning merrily, and parties of them going to and from the stream for water. I took my information on to Deal's camp. I was much taken with the coolness with which the news was received there. It was not above two miles and a half from that of the enemy. The men were ordered to get their breakfasts without delay, and a patrol of a sergeant and two men was sent out to the stream to see if there were good water there, and also (apparently as an after-thought) whether they, too, could see any enemy there. Before we had finished breakfast they returned. " Well, is it all right ? Is there water there ? " " Yes." " Is it good water ? " " I couldn't tell." . " Why not?" OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 53 " Because the Matabele were there, and wouldn't let us come near." So we saddled up and moved off towards the spot to await the arrival of more troops from Buluwayo, for I had sent my police-trooper back with a note to tell them there that "it was good enough," and asking that Spreckley's mounted column should be sent out to join us. Presently they came up, followed by a few volunteers in carts who wanted to join in the fun. Our strength was 250 mounted men, with two guns and an ambulance. The country was undulating veldt covered with brush, through which a line of mounted men could move at open files. As we advanced, we formed into line, with both tianks thrown well forward especially the right Hank under Beal, which was to work round in rear of the enemy on to their line of retreat a duty which was most successfully carried out. The central part of the line then advanced at a trot straight for the enemy's position. The enemy were about 1203 strong, we after- wards found out. They did not seem very excited at our advance, but all stood looking as we crossed the Umgusa stream, but as we began to breast the slope on their side of it, and on which their camp 54 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 lay, they became exceedingly lively, and were soon running like ants to take post in good positions at the edge of a long belt of thicker bush. We afterwards found that their apathy at first was due to a message from the M'limo, who had instructed them to approach Buluwayo and to draw out the garrison, and to get us to cross the Umgusa, because he (the M'limo) would then cause the stream to open and swallow up every man of us. After which the impi would have nothing to do but walk into Buluwayo and cut up the women and children at their leisure. But something had gone wrong with the M'limo's machinery, and we crossed the stream without any contretemps. So, as we got nearer to the swarm of black heads among the grass and bushes, their rifles began to pop and their bullets to flit past with a weird little "phit," "phit," or a jet of dust and a shrill " wh-e-e-e-w " where they ricocheted off the ground. Some of our men, accustomed to mounted infantry work, were now for jumping off to return the fire, but the order was given : " No ; make a cavalry fight of it. Forward ! Gallop ! " Then, as we came up close, the niggers let us have an irregular, rackety volley, and in another moment we were among them. They did not 55 OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 57 wait, but one and all they turned to fly, dodging in among the bushes, loading as they ran. And we were close upon their heels, zigzagging through the thorns, jumping off now and then, or pulling up, to fire a shot (we had not a sword among us, worse luck !), and on aofain. /* o The men that I was with Grey's Scouts never seemed to miss a shot. The Matabele as they ran kept stopping behind bushes to fire. Now and again they tried to rally, but whenever a clump of them began to form or tried to stand, we went at them with a whoop and a yell, and both spurs in, and sent them flying. Of course, besides their guns they had their assegais. Several of our horses got some wounds, and one man got a horrid stab straight into his stomach. I saw another of our men fling himself on to a Kafir who was stabbing at him ; together they rolled on the ground, and in a twinkling the white man had twisted the spear from its owner's hand, and after a short, sharp tussle, he drove it through the other's heart. In one place one of the men got somewhat detached from the rest, and came on a bunch of eight of the enemy. These fired on him and killed his horse, but he himself was up in a trice, and, using magazine fire, he let them have it 58 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 with such effect that before they could close on him with their clubs and assegais, he had floored half their number, and the rest just turned and fled. And farther on a horse was shot, and, in the fall, his rider stunned. The niggers came loup- ing up, grinning at the anticipated bloodshed, but Sergeant Farley, of Grey's Scouts, was there EIGHT TO ONE One of our men came on a party of eight enemy. They shot his horse, but he was himself up in a moment, and, opening magazine fire on them, quickly killed or dispersed his assailants. before them, and hoisting up his comrade on to his horse, got him safe away. Everywhere one found the Kafirs creeping into bushes, where they lay low till some of us came by, and then they loosed off their guns at us after we had passed. I had my Colt's repeater with me with only OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 59 six cartridges in the magazine, and soon I found I had finished these so, throwing it under a peculiar tree, where I might find it again, I went on with my revolver. Presently I came on an open stretch of ground, and about eighty yards before me was a Kafir with a Martini- Henry. He saw me, and dropped on one knee and drew a steady bead on me. I felt so indignant at this that I rode at him as hard as I could go, calling him every name under the sun ; he aimed, for an hour, it seemed to me, and it was quite a relief when at last he fired, at about ten yards distance, and still more of a relief when I realised he had clean missed me. Then he jumped up and turned to run, but he had not gone two paces when he cringed as if some one had slapped him hard on the back, then his head dropped and his heels flew up, and he fell smack on his face, shot by one of our men behind me. At last I called a halt. Our horses were done, the niggers were all scattered, and there were almost as many left behind us hiding in bushes as there were running on in front. A few minutes spent in breathing the horses, and a vast amount of jabber and chaff, and then we reformed the line and returned at a walk, clearing the bush as we went. 6o THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 I had one shave. I went to help two men who were fighting a Kafir at the foot of a tree, but they killed him just as I got there. I was under the tree when something moving over my head caught my attention. It was a gun-barrel taking aim down at me, the firer jammed so close to the tree-stem as to look like part of it. Before I could move he fired, and just ploughed into the ground at my feet. He did not remain much longer in the tree. I have his knobkerrie and his photo now as mementos. At length we mustered again at our starting- point, where the guns and ambulance had been left. We found that, apart from small scratches and contusions, we had only four men badly wounded. One poor fellow had his thigh smashed by a ball from an elephant gun, from which he afterwards died. Another had two bullets in his back. Four horses had been killed. And the blow dealt to the enemy was a most important one. A prisoner told us that the impi was composed of picked men from all the chief regiments of the rebel's forces, and that a great number of the chiefs were present at the fight. [P.S. We learned some months afterwards from refugees and surrendered rebels that this was true, OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 63 and that no less than fifteen headmen had been killed, as well as more than two hundred of their men.] Of course this was a very one-sided fight, and it sounds rather brutal to anyone reading in cold blood how we hunted them without giving them a chance but it must be remembered we were but 250 against at least 1200. Lord Wolseley says " when you get niggers on the run, keep them on the run " (this we did, for half a mile beyond the spot where we pulled up, Beal with his column cut in from the flank and bashed them from a new direction), and our only chance of bringing the war to a speedy end is to go for them whenever we get the chance, and hit as hard as ever we can : any hesitation or softness is construed by them as a sign of weakness, and at once restores their confidence and courage. They expect no quarter, because, as they admit themselves, they have gone beyond their own etiquette of war, and have killed our women and children. We found one wounded man who had hanged himself after the fight. This is not an uncommon occurrence in these fights. \_P.S. I did not at the time fully realise the extraordinary bloodthirsty rage of some of our men when they got hand to hand with the 64 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 Kafirs, but I not only understood it, but felt it to the full myself later on, when I too had seen those English girls lying horribly mutilated, and the little white children with the life smashed and beaten out of them by laughing black fiends, who knew no mercy. Don't think from these remarks that I am a regular nigger -hater, for I am not. I have met lots of good friends among them especially among the Zulus. But, however good they may be, they must, as a people, be ruled with a hand of iron in a velvet glove ; and if they writhe under it, and don't understand the force of it, it is of no use to add more padding you must take off the glove for a moment and show them the hand. They will then understand and obey. In the present instance they had been rash enough to pull off the glove for themselves, and were now beginning to find out what the hand was made of. After the fight I made tracks for Buluwayo, got in in time for late lunch, made up for lost time in the office, and was quite ready to go to bed soon after dinner. But I called in at the club on my way, to have a peep at the wonderfully picturesque collection of warriors, who were, many of them, most of them in fact, still in their OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 65 fighting-kit (for many had no other), talking over the day's doings. jt/ijune. Rode out early, with a police-orderly to guide me, to inspect the fort at Hope Fountain, ten miles south of Buluwayo, from which one could just see the tops of Matopo Mountains, in which so many of the rebel chiefs are said to be taking up their position. This fort had been attacked about ten days ago, but the enemy never came on with any boldness, and drew off after losing eleven killed. The mission station close by, a very pretty little homestead with nice gardens and trees, had been looted and burnt by the rebels. I got back to Buluwayo just in time to see Spreckley's column march off to patrol the country north-east of Buluwayo. A fine body of 400 of the roughest, most workman -like fighters one could wish to see. It comprised both infantry and mounted infantry, artillery, and a levy of wild-looking friendly Matabele. In the afternoon I rode over yesterday's battle- field with Vyvyan, recovered my gun, which, by the way, Sir Frederick has christened " Rodney," and photographed the chap who potted me out of the tree. %th and gl/i J^me. Office work from early morning up to late at night. 5 66 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 \ofk June. Lunched with Maurice Gifford, who had lost his arm in one of the first fights of the war. He is not really in a fit state to be about, it still hurts him badly, poor chap, and he is a bit feverish, but quite anxious to have another go at the enemy. He says he feels the pain as if it were in his hand, whereas the arm was taken off at the shoulder. News came in from MacFarlane of a skirmish he had had near Redbank. In the afternoon I rode out with Vyvyan to Taba-s'-Induna, a flat-topped hill that stands up bold and abruptly out of the sea- like veldt ten miles from Buluwayo. It was the place of execu- tion for many of Lobengula's Indunas. Beautiful view from the top over a widespread yellow 7 prairie, with sharp blue mountains on the horizon. \\thjune. The hospital, which has a number of wounded men among its sick, stands away at one corner of the town, and is fortified and garrisoned in case of attack. Eight nuns work their lives out nursing there, and the men, if not demonstrative, are to the full appreciative and grateful, and would do anything for them. Close to the hospital, on a rise, stands the "Eiffel Tower": a skeleton look-out tower about 80 feet high, from which the country round for OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 67 many miles can be watched. The look-out man to-day says he can see a fight going on in the far distance to the north, apparently somewhere in MacFarlane's direction. De Moleyns, adjutant of the 4th Hussars, arrived from England, anxious for a job, and we took him on as head of the Remount Depart- ment. I2//2 Jtine. Office as per usual. But vague rumours of what the enemy are doing in the Matopos made me impatient, especially owing to their vagueness. So in the evening I started off with Burnham, the American scout, to go and investigate. Delightful night ride to Kami Fort, sixteen miles south-west of Buluwayo. Jam, cookies, and tea with the two officers there, and a few hours' sleep on that best of beds the veldt tempered with a blanket and a saddle. \$th June. At 4 a.m. we were off again, Burnham and I and Trooper Bradley of the Mounted Police, who knew this part of the country well. We got to Mabukutwane Fort one of the natural koppies strengthened with sandbags, etc. -in time for breakfast. Here we found some excitement, as a transport rider in charge of waggons had just come in from the road, report- 68 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 ing that he had been fired on by Matabele about two miles out. A patrol was sent out, and we sent warnings to waggons and to the coach, which was due to pass to-day, telling them to wait at the fort till the road had been reconnoitred. It ended in nothing the patrol returned having found no Matabele nor any spoor of them. So, having been joined by Taylor, the Native Commissioner, we rode off across the veldt towards the Matopos, some six miles distant from the fort. On arriving at Mapisa's Kraal, a friendly chief, we off-saddled our horses (but never let our guns out of our hands, for even friendlies are not to be too blindly trusted), and, taking two or three of his scouts with us, we climbed up into some koppies which commanded a view of the enemy's position, and of the Matopos generally. Awful country, a weird, jumbled mass of grey granite boulders thickly interspersed with bush, and great jagged mountains. The Matabele had never before been reduced to the necessity of taking to these mountain fastnesses, but they were the regular refuge of the Makalakas, the original inhabitants of the country, when raided by their Matabele con- querors. This particular stronghold before us, the Inugu Mountain, with its neighbouring gorges OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 69 and its labyrinths of caves, had been chosen by Lobengula as the safest refuge in the country, and consequently he had made it the home of his favourite queen, Famona. It is now held by an impi of about a thousand Matabele. Their outposts, in talking- with some of Mapisa's spies (they shout to each other at a INUGU MOUNTAIN STRONGHOLD Near the western end of the Matopos, and occupied by about fifteen hundred rebels. Their plan was to induce us to enter the gorge near Famona's Kraals, and then to hold the entrance, and cut off our retreat. safe distance across a . valley), have said that they mean to draw the white troops on when they come to attack them, till they have got them well inside the gorge under the mountain, and then to "give them snuff." [_P. S. A month later, as will presently be seen, they tried this on with Laing's and Nichol- son's columns.] ;o THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 While we were staring our eyes out at the position, taking bearings, and making sketches, etc., I suddenly saw a distant cow, and, by getting on to a better rock, I soon discovered a herd of cattle feeding in the valley below the enemy's position. Here was a chance for a lark to mount, swoop down, and round up the cattle under their very noses, before they had time to interfere ! But to my surprise, on mooting the idea, the niggers with us let out that these cattle did not belong to the enemy, but to another friendly chief, Farko, who lived near by. That the enemy should leave these cattle un- touched was a revelation to me, and I then saw that the so-called friendlies were on pretty good terms with the rebels. But for this chance eye- opener of having, in the first instance, seen a solitary cow in the distance I might have been led to trust to friendlies and their reports. It was well I didn't. Having seen all we could, and made a map, Burnham and I started out for home ; reached Kami in the middle of the night, and early next day were back in Buluwayo. Burnham a most delightful companion on such a trip ; amusing, interesting, and most instructive. Having seen service against the Red Indians, he OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 71 brings quite a new experience to bear on the scouting work here. And, while he talks away, there's not a thing- escapes his quick- roving eye, whether it is on the horizon or at his feet. We got on well together, and he much ap- proved of the results of your early de- velopment in me of the art of " induct- ive reasoning m fact, before We had SCOUT BURNHAM examined and WOr- The American scout, of much experience both among Red Indians and Matabele. ried out many little indications in the course of our ride, he had nick- named me "Sherlock Holmes." \_P.S. --We planned to do much scouting together in the future, but, unfortunately, it never came off, as he was soon afterwards compelled, for domestic reasons, to go down country.] The following- is an extract from a business- o like offer I received to-day one of the develop- ments of war in modern times : "We, A and B , certified engineers, 72 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 wish to place our services at the disposal of the Chartered Company in any offensive or defensive operations against the rebels. Speciality Con- struction of forts, bridges, and dynamite operations. References," etc. etc. It is another step towards carrying on war by contract. i^tk and \^th Jime. Office again, up till late into the night. Colonel Bridge arrived with his staff-clerks, and much relieved our pressure of work by taking over the commissariat and trans- port arrangements, which are our main anxiety. Indeed, we are on half- rations of tinned meat now ; fresh meat unprocurable, and prospects of immediate further supply rather vague. 1 6tk June. - - Yesterday, with the arrival of Colonel Bridge, our clouds seemed to be lightening up a bit. To-day a thunderclap has come. Tele- grams from Salisbury (sent round by Victoria and Macloutsie, owing to the direct wire being cut) tell us of murders of whites in three widely separate parts of Mashonaland. It almost looks as though the Matabele rebellion were repeating itself there. If so, the outlook is very bad indeed. Salisbury is 270 miles from here by road. We have here a number of troops who were sent from Salisbury to help us, and now their want will be OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 73 acutely felt over there. In Mashonaland they have only one line of road to the coast for their supplies, and if that gets cut, we cannot help them ; we have not sufficient for ourselves. Indeed, if we cannot manage to get up immense supplies within the next two or three months (it takes over a month for a mule - waggon to get here from Mafeking), I don't see how we are going to hold on to the country. The rains may set in in October, and, once they have begun, the transport of supplies and troops becomes im- possible ; the veldt becomes a bog, and the rivers rise into turgid torrents. Our only chance of maintaining our hold on the country is to plant outlying posts, and to fill them up with a sufficient stock of food to keep them throughout the four months of the rainy season. And, in the meantime, we must also thoroughly smash up the enemy. Owing to rinderpest, it seems almost impossible to get sufficient waggons in Cape Colony to bring up the required supplies. So that we're in a quandary. Either we smash up the enemy, and get up supplies for outlying posts before the rains come on, or else we draw in our horns, concentrate nearer to our base, organising our measures for a real effective campaign directly the rains are 74 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 over. But the loss of prestige, of time, and of property involved in this second course would be deplorable, so we mean to have a good try to gain the first, and win the race against weather, rinderpest, and other bad luck. \*]th June. -- Having heard of some Matabele firing on a party of our men, about three miles out on the Salisbury Road, yesterday, De Moleyns and I took an early morn- ing ride with one of the o morning patrols. Started in the dark at 4 a.m., and moved out along that road. Presently we A CAFE BOY SENTRY Came U P On an armed ni g' During a night patrol we came on a ger Squatting at the rOad- Cape Boy wrapped in a blanket, whom at first we took to be an g^g so muffled UD in a armed native. We asked who he was. He replied, "A sentry." U1~ n U pr ~ nr | ^ carlr that "Where is your piquet (sup- blanket ana a sack tnat port)?" "Ticket?" said he, 1 ... , misunderstanding. "I don't carry he Old ttOt hear US a ticket. I AM A SOLDIER ! " All natives who are friendly have jr}O" to carry a pass or " ticket, " and * a Cape Boy, though black, would Qnr | much resent being mistaken for a and local native. r r was a sentry of one of our own outlying "Cape Boys'" piquets. I said to him, " Where is your piquet ? " We captured him, OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 75 He replied, with much haughtiness, " I not carry a ticket ; I am soldier ! " \Explanation. All ordinary natives have to carry a "ticket" or pass, so that they may not be taken up and shot as spies.] We went on, but saw no signs of Matabele. At daybreak we got to Deal's camp, had a cup of coffee there with Daly (formerly in the i3th), and got home in time for breakfast, much refreshed by our morning's ride, and especially as we saw, on our way home, paauw, guinea-fowl, hares, and pheasants. Office all day. More outbreaks telegraphed from Mashona- land. No doubt now that it is rebellion there too. It is a curious experience sitting with Sir Rich- ard Martin, Lord Grey, and the General, in the telegraph office, and listening to a conversation being ticked to us from Salisbury, some 800 miles away, just as if the sender (Judge Vintcent) were in the next room the message being a string of startling details of more murders, impis gathering, heroic patrols making dashing rescues, preparations for defence, and state of food supplies and am- munition. i8M to 2\st June. Days of office-work, liter- ally from daylight till well, long, long after dark. 76 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 Not a scrap of exercise, nor time to write a letter home. Office work, however interesting it may be, would incline sometimes to become tedious, were it not for rays of humour that dart in from time to time through the overcharged cloud of routine. Here are some items that have come to us in the past few days, and which have tended to relieve the monotony of the work. A letter from a lady, who writes direct to the General, runs as follows (she desires information as to the whereabouts of her brother) : " I apply to you direct, in preference to my brother's com- manding officer, because it is said, ' Vaut mieux s'adresser au bon Dieu qu' a tons ses saints.' "If anything has happened to my brother, I hold Mr. Ch accountable for it, as, but for his playing lickspittle to Oom Kruger but for his base betrayal of the Johannesburgers, which has made England the laughing-stock of all her ene- mies, there need have been no kissing at all. Probably the poor natives hoped to be magnani- mous, a la Kruger, by screwing ,25,000 out of each of their prisoners, and that England would follow suit by trying our chief defenders at bar as convicts, in spite of a protesting jury." Then, from the officer commanding one of OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 77 the outlying forts, comes a letter to say : " . . . This being only a small fort, and no fighting to be done, I consider it only a waste of time to remain here. If you cannot place me in a position where active service can be done, I beg respect- fully to submit my resignation." I have had many letters of that kind from various volunteer officers. Then, from England : " Dear Sir, Could you kindly give me any details as to the death of my brother Charles. He is supposed to have been eaten by lions about four years ago in Mashona- land." My orderly (a volunteer) was not to be found to-day when I wanted him, but a loafer, hanging about the office door, said that the orderly had left word with him that " he was going out to lunch, but would be back soon, in case he were wanted." One volunteer trooper, apparently anxious that the routine of soldiering should, in his corps at anyrate, be carried out in its entirety, takes it upon himself to write to me as follows : " I beg to request that the following charges may be made the subject of inquiry by court martial : ki (i) I charge the orderly officer, whoever he 78 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 may be, with neglect of duty, in that he did not visit the guard - room last night when I was there. " (2) I charge the corporal of the guard with neglect of duty, in that he was absent from the guard-room at 9.32 p.m., at the Spoofery. "(3) I charge the same corporal of the guard with not officially informing the guard that there was a prisoner in the guard-room. " (4) I charge the corporal of the guard with using unbecoming language, in that he used the phrase, ' Why the h 1 don't you know? ' to me." Etc. etc. etc. Another trooper, not quite so enthusiastic, writes to tell me that at his fort the drill and discipline are "heart-rending'' An Italian surgeon writes that he is "anxious to be engaged in the British Army in Matabele- land." , He hopes that the General will "approve his generous intention," and will "grant him the admission in the army which many persons, not more worthy than him, so easily obtain." Among the many interesting experiences of a campaign, carried on, as this one is, under a varied assortment of troops, is that entailed in receiving- reports from officers of very diverse training. Some are verbose in the extreme, others are terse OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 79 to barrenness. But the latter is a most rare fault, and may well be called a fault on the right side. As a rule, reports appear to be proportioned on an inverse ratio to work performed. The man who has done little, tries to make it appear much, by means of voluminous description. I often feel inclined to issue printed copies, as ex- amples to officers commanding columns, of Captain Walton's celebrated despatch, when, under Admiral Byng, he destroyed the whole of the Spanish fleet off Passaro " SIR, We have taken or destroyed all the Spanish ships on this coast ; number as per margin. -Respectfully yours, G. WALTON, Capt" There is no superfluous verbosity there. Vyvyan ill with a very bad throat, and Fer- guson away with one of the columns, so I have plenty to keep me occupied. The outbreak in Mashonaland ever spreading like wildfire, till it covers an area of 500 miles by 200 some 2000 whites against 18,000 to 20,000 blacks. We have asked for imperial troops to be sent up without delay, both to Matabeleland and Mashonaland, only to the extent of about 500 in each country, for every nerve will have to be 8o THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, i strained to feed even these -but we haven't a chance of winning our race without them. It is a great relief to realise that they are on their way, bringing with them their own transport and supplies. 22nd June. Spreckley's column returned from its three weeks' patrol without having found the enemy in force, but it broke up his "bits" into smaller pieces, destroyed many kraals, took prisoners, and, best of all, captured much cattle and corn. 2$rd June. Dined at Spreckley's house in the 4 'suburban stands," as the wooded slope outside the town is termed. A very pretty "paper" house. These "paper" houses are common in Buluwayo they are really wire-wove, with wooden frames, iron roofs, cardboard walls, with proper fireplaces, windows and doors, verandahs, etc. Just like a stone-built house in appearance, but portable ; sent out from Queen Victoria Street in pieces. Spreckley himself is an ass l in one respect, namely, because he did not take up soldiering as his profession instead of gold and pioneering- successful though he has been in this other line. 1 This was not intended for publication, and if it should happen to meet the eye of the gentleman alluded to, I trust he will be magnanimous enough not to sue me for libel especially as I make the statement believing it to be true. OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 81 He has all the qualifications that go to make an officer above the ruck of them. Endowed with all the dash, pluck, and attractive force that make a man a born leader of men, he is also steeped in common sense, is careful in arrangement of details, and possesses a temperament that can sing " Wait till the clouds roll by " in crises where other men are tearing their hair. Owing to all the extra work in the office due to o the Mashonaland outbreak, I had been unable to go on a little expedition with Burnham. A rumour had reached us that the natives in the south-west of the country intended rising. Hitherto they had remained quiet, and the road towards Mafeking had not been stopped ; but now there appeared the danger of this road being blocked, and of our supplies, etc., being cut off from us. At the western end of the Matopos lived a priest of the M'limo, and the people took their orders from him. If he now were to direct them to rise, our line of com- munications would be in great danger. So we wanted him captured. The difficulty was that if a large party went there, he would have early intimation of its coming, and would decamp in good time. So a young fellow named Armstrong, the Native Commissioner of that district, and Burnham volunteered to go alone and capture, or, 82 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 if necessary, shoot him. To-day we had a telegram from Burnham giving the result of it. He had gone to Mangwe, and, accompanied only by Arm- strong, he had ridden over to the cave of the local priest of the M'limo pretended that if the M'limo would render him invulnerable to Matabele bullets he would give him a handsome reward saw the priest begin to go through the ceremony (so there was no mistake as to his identity), and then shot him. It was a risky game, as in the next valley were camped a large number of natives who had come for a big ceremony with the M'limo the next day. But the two men got away all right, having to gallop for it. The natives never rose to stop the road. i6th June. I had not been outside the office for four days, and was feeling over-boiled with the sedentary work, so after dinner I saddled up and rode off ten miles in the moonlight to Hope Fountain. Here I roused out Pyke, the officer in command. (Had lost an arm in the previous Matabele war when with Forbes' patrol down the Shangani after Lobengula.) He roused out Corporal Herbert, and we rode down in the dark to the Matopos> and had a very interesting look round there in the early morning. I much enjoyed it. Was back in the office by 10.30, all the better for a night out. SILENCING THE ORACLE The M'limo is an invisible deity believed in by the Makalakas and Matabele alike. In different districts of the country are priests of the M'limo living in caves, who are consulted by the people as mouthpieces of the god. These priests gave out the orders for the rebellion. It was to prevent one of these men giving his orders that Messrs. Armstrong and Burnham endeavoured to effect his arrest, but, failing in the attempt, owing to the natives becoming alarmed, Burnham shot the priest. 83 OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 85 Pyke is one of three fine, athletic brothers who are all serving here in different corps. This evening we had a cheery little dinner at the hotel, to which came Sir Richard Martin, Colonel and Mrs. Spreckley, Captain and Mrs. Selous, Captain and Mrs. Colenbrander all heroes and heroines of the rebellion. How Spreckley made us laugh, fooling around the piano as if he were just going to sing ! It is daily a source of wonder to me how the General manages to handle some of the local officers and men. Of course, with the better class it is impossible not to get on well, but there are certain individuals who to any ordinary Imperial officer would be perfectly " impossible." Sir Frederick, however, is round them in a moment, and either coaxes or frightens them into acquiescence as the case demands ; but were any general, with- out his personal knowledge of South Africa and its men, to attempt, to take this motley force in hand, I cannot think there would be anything but ructions in a very short space of time. A little tact and give-and-take properly applied reaps a good return from Colonial troops, but the slightest show of domineering or letter-of-the-regulations discipline is apt to turn them crusty and " impossible." A very good instance of the general feeling that seems 86 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 to influence the local troops is shown in the follow- ing letter which the General has received. (The writer of it leaves it to the discretion of the General where to insert commas and stops.) "To Mr. Frederick Carrington General. " Sir Seeing in the papers and news from the North the serous phase that affairs are taking I am willing to raise by your permission a set of Good hard pratical colonials here that have seen service Farmers Sons and Chuck my situation and head them off as a Yeomanry Corps I have been under you Sir in the B.B.P (Bechuanaland Border Police) and am well acquainted with the Big gun Drill and a Good Shot with the maxim. We will consider it an honor to stand under you Sir but object to eye glasses and kid gloves otherwise " Yrs to command "H- . " Eyeglass and kid gloves" standing in the estimation of this and other honest yeomen of the colony for " Imperial officer." Unfortunately the Colonials have had experi- ence of one class or another of regular officers, which has not suited their taste, and his defects get on their nerves and impress themselves on their OUR WORK AT BULUWAYO 87 minds, and they are very apt to look on such indi- vidual as the type of his kind, and if they after- wards meet with others having different attributes, they merely consider them as exceptions which prove the rule. No doubt there are certain types among us, and our training and upbringing in the service are apt to gradually run us in the groove of one type or another. The type which perhaps is most of a red rag to the Colonial is the highly-trained officer, bound hand and foot by the rules of modern war, who moves his force on a matured, deliberate plan, with all minutiae correctly prepared beforehand, incapable of change to meet any altered or unfore- seen circumstances, and who has a proper contempt for nigger foes and for colonial allies alike. And there is, on the other hand, the old- woman type, fussy, undecided, running ignorantly into dangers he wots not of; even in a subordinate position his fussiness will not allow him to be still, and so he fiddles about like a clown in the circus, running about to help everybody at everybody's job, yet helping none. Happily and the Colonials here are beginning to realise it these types are not the rule in the service, but the exception. What is now more 88 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 often met with is the man who calmly smokes, yet works as hard and as keenly as the best of them. Quick to adapt his measures to the country he is in, and ready to adopt some other than the drill-book teachings where they don't apply with his particular foe. Understanding the principle of give-and-take without letting all run slack. The three C's which go to make a commander cool- ness, common sense, and courage are the attri- butes par excellence of the proper and more usual type of the British officer. For be it understood that "coolness" stands for absence of flurry, petti- ness, and indecision; " common sense " for tactics, strategy, and all supply arrangements ; while "courage" means the necessary dash and leader- ship of men. CHAPTER IV SCOUTING 26th June to \\th July Single Scouts preferable to Patrols How to conceal yourself Skirt-Dancing a Useful Aid to evading an Enemy The Enemy's Ruses for catching us The Minutiae of Scouting The Matopo Hills Positions of the Enemy A Typical Patrol The Value of Solitary Scouting Its Importance in Modern War The Elementary Principles of Scouting. July. A bit of a break in the diary, not because there was nothing doing-, but just the opposite. For one thing, we have been pretty busy in sending off three small columns to the assistance of Mashonaland. And also, personally, I have been fully occupied in another way : that is, in repeating my experiences of the 26th June, and frequently by day, and very often by night, I have been back in the Matopos, locating the enemy's positions. I go sometimes with one or two whites, sometimes with two or three black companions ; 89 90 THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896 but what I prefer is to go with my one nigger-boy, who can ride and spoor and can take charge of the horses while I am climbing about the rocks to get a view. It may seem anomalous, but it is in the very smallness of the party that the elements of success and safety lie. A small party is less likely to attract attention ; there are fewer to extricate or to afford a target, if we happen to get into a tight place ; and I think that one is more on the alert when one is not trusting to others to keep the look-out. Then we have a nice kind of enemy to deal with. Except on special occasions, they don't like going about in the dark, and cannot understand anybody else doing it ; and they sleep like logs, and keep little or no look-out at night. Thus one is able to pass close through their outposts in the dark, to reconnoitre their main positions in the early dawn (when they light up fires to thaw away their night's stiffness), and then to come away by some other route than that by which you entered. So long as you are clothed, as we are in non- conspicuous colours, you can escape detection even from their sharp eyes ; but you must not move about directly you move, they see you, and take & ,c n >;^ ^