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 ARCHITECTURAL REMAINS 
 
 OF RICHMOND TWICKENHAM KEW 
 
 MORTLAKE AND PETERSHAM
 
 THIS EDITION CONSISTS OK 4OO COPIES 
 (365 FOR SALE), AND THE IiRAWINGS HAVE 
 BEKN ERASED FROM THE STONES. 
 
 THE LITHOGRAPHS HAVE BEEN PRINTED 
 BY THOMAS WAV, 21, WELLINGTON STREET. 
 THIS COPV IS NO. :?3/ c^-/9if?
 
 FRONTISPIECE 
 
 THE OLD PALACE RICHMOND 
 
 FROM THE COURTYARD
 
 ARCHITECTURAL REMAINS OF 
 RICHMOND TWICKENHAM KEW 
 PETERSHAM AND MORTLAKE 
 
 DRAWN IN LITHOGRAPHY BY THOMAS R. WAY 
 WITH NOTES COMPILED BY FREDERIC CHAPMAN 
 
 "And old immortal words 
 SauK iivmy breast like birds, 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 f 
 
 Coming 
 On the V 
 
 up from Richr 
 vay to K»w " 
 
 lond 1 
 
 LONDON AND NEW YORK 
 JOHN LANE A.D. MCM
 
 Printed by 
 
 Richard Folkard & Son, 
 
 Devonshire Street, London, W.C.
 
 PREFACE 
 
 HAVING made nearly loo Drawings in the four 
 volumes of Reliques of Old London and 
 its Suburbs, of what appeared to me to be 
 the most picturesque of the old buildings and groups 
 of houses left at the end of the Century in this vast 
 city of ours, I have found the task so interesting, and 
 the reception of the books both by the public and the 
 press so kindly, that, to find similar subjects, I have 
 naturally looked to that ring of great and growing 
 cities which encircle London now, but are fast being 
 drawn into its net of Suburbs. My friend Mr. Chap- 
 man suggested to me that the old Palace and Green 
 at Richmond would make an excellent nucleus, and 
 so we went over the ground, and the subjects for the 
 present book were chosen. With Richmond, unfor- 
 tunately, we seem to be a little late, as street improve- 
 ments have been made of late years by which much of 
 the old charm of the town has been lost. At Twicken- 
 ham, too, a new main road is just opened, but still many 
 charming groups of old houses remain, and it is to be 
 
 V.
 
 hoped they will not be improved off the face of the 
 earth as small and incommodious. Petersham, which 
 is perhaps the most aristocratic village in England, 
 being almost entirely composed of a group of splendid 
 early Georgian Mansions, should, one may reasonably 
 expect, remain as it is for an indefinite time. 
 
 Amongst these drawings is one, the view from 
 Richmond Terrace, which is not architectural (unless 
 we may look upon the trees which form a screen to the 
 subject as nature's architecture), but Richmond and 
 its River View seem inseparable, and so it is included 
 with the others. 
 
 There are probably many buildings with more 
 interesting associations than some of those here drawn, 
 but my selection is mainly based on the picturesque 
 character of the subjects in addition to their antiquity. 
 They have all been drawn directly from nature. 
 
 T. R. WAY. 
 
 VI.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Richmond : 
 
 Old Palace from the Courtyard 
 
 Old Palace from the Green 
 
 Greenside 
 
 Richmond Church . 
 
 The Bridge 
 
 The Trumpeting House 
 
 Red Lion Inn . 
 
 Almshouses in the Sheen Road 
 
 View from the Terrace Gardens 
 
 The White Lodge . 
 
 Parkshot . . . 
 
 Twickenham : 
 
 The River Front, East 
 
 Twickenham Church 
 
 Montpelier Row 
 
 The George Inn, King Street 
 
 Church Street . 
 
 Sion Row . . , 
 
 Kew 
 
 The Palace 
 Kew Church 
 
 Fron 
 
 tisp'iece 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 2+ 
 
 6 
 
 26 
 
 7 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 3*^ 
 
 lO 
 
 42 
 
 II 
 
 46 
 
 12 
 
 60 
 
 IJ 
 
 64 
 
 H 
 
 72 
 
 15 
 
 76 
 
 i6 
 
 80 
 
 17 
 
 84 
 
 18 
 
 92 
 
 19 
 
 96 
 
 Vll.
 
 MORTLAKE : 
 
 Mortlake Church 
 The River Front 
 
 20 
 21 
 
 I 06 
 110 
 
 Petersham : 
 
 Petersham Church 
 Rutland Lodge 
 Ham House 
 
 22 
 
 120 
 
 23 
 
 122 
 
 24 
 
 124 
 
 VIU.
 
 <• 
 
 ARCHITECTURAL REMAINS 
 
 OF RICHMOND TWICKENHAM 
 
 KEW MORTLAKE AND 
 
 PETERSHAM 
 
 RICHMOND 
 
 THE origin of the present name of the town is told in 
 the note on the old palace. As to its earlier name, 
 Shene, it is supposed by some to be a Saxon word 
 signifying shining, or beautiful, and to have been bestowed 
 on the place in recognition of its natural beauty. 
 
 In a Harleian manuscript, almost contemporary with 
 Doomsday Book, the name is spelt Syene ; and it has been 
 suggested that the neighbouring convent of Syon, the pre- 
 decessor of Syon House, may have acquired its name from 
 its nearness to Syene rather than from the Mount Sion of the 
 sacred city. It were perhaps equally plausible to suggest 
 that the town, or village rather, was named Syene because 
 the proximity of the hill brought the holy mountain continu- 
 ally before the mind of some devotee of remote days. 
 
 The early history of Richmond is the history of its con- 
 nection with the royal family, and is therefore contained in 
 the note on the old palace. 
 
 After the abandonment of the palace by the royal family, 
 there is not much to be told until the kings of the house of 
 Hanover took up their residence at Richmond Lodge, in the
 
 Old Deer Park. But in speaking of this residence and its 
 occupants it will be necessary to go back several generations. 
 Henry V. was burdened with the knowledge that his 
 father had dethroned and caused the death of Richard II., 
 and being a man of deeply religious temperament (the wild 
 escapades of his youth notwithstanding), he resolved to found 
 two religious houses wherein perpetual intercession should be 
 made for his father's soul and that of the murdered king. 
 The one was the Bridgetine nunnery of Syon, of which 
 mention is made in the note on Twickenham Park, which 
 faced the palace on the opposite side of the river ; and the 
 other a Carthusian establishment for forty monks, known as 
 " The House of Jesus of Bethlehem at Sheen." 
 
 This latter monastery was of very considerable dimen- 
 sions, and contained, according to Aubrey, a great hall, 
 measuring 132 feet in length by 24 feet in width, a great 
 quadrangle, 360 feet in length and 100 feet in width, cloisters 
 600 feet long and 9 feet high, and a total area of 3000 feet 
 by 1305 feet. 
 
 In all monasteries of the Carthusian order each inmate 
 had a separate small house, bordering on the great cloister, 
 and comprising a living room, a sleeping room, a workshop, 
 and a little oratory. Even the small garden attached to each 
 of these " cells " was enclosed within its own walls. 
 
 It would be one of these houses, or cottages, that John 
 Evelyn refers to on August 27th, 1678 : — 
 
 " Din'd at Mr. Hen. Brouncker's at ye abbey of Sheene, 
 formerly a monastery of Carthusians, there yet remaining 
 one of their solitary cells with a crosse." 
 
 Presumably hall, church, cloisters had all vanished, 
 leaving only the single cell ; but some portion of the old 
 buildings may have been incorporated in the house at which 
 Evelyn dined, as he makes no mention of the great gateway 
 of the Priory, which was not demolished till 1770. 
 
 Edward IV. and his Queen, with the Duke of Glou- 
 cester, afterwards Richard III., visited the Priory in 1472,
 
 " to obtain 500 days' pardon, this grace having been offered to 
 all persons who had contributed to the repairs of the building." 
 
 Perkin Warbeck sought and obtained shelter here in 
 1496 from the vengeance of Henry VII. 
 
 Stow records that the body of James IV. of Scotland 
 was brought here after the battle of Flodden Field, and states 
 that he saw it, wrapped in lead, in a lumber room in 1552. 
 
 In 1539 the Priory was suppressed by Henry VIII. and 
 granted in the following year to the nobleman who afterwards 
 became Duke of Somerset, and who so enriched himself at 
 the general spoliation of the religious houses. 
 
 It is stated that the marriage of Robert Dudley, Earl of 
 Leicester, with Amy Robsart took place here, in which case 
 the Priory Church must have remained unmutilated for a con- 
 siderable length of time. The house had been restored to 
 religious uses for a brief period under Queen Mary. 
 
 In 1638 it was bestowed by Charles I. upon James, 
 Duke of Lennox, for life. Lord Lisle had a lease of it upon 
 the restoration of Charles II. He assigned it to John, Lord 
 Bellasyse, and in 1666 it became the residence of Sir William 
 Temple. 
 
 " My heart," he writes in 1667, " is set on my little corner 
 at Sheen, that while I keep it no other disappointments will 
 be sensible to me. I am contriving this summer how a 
 succession of cherries may be compassed from May to 
 Michaelmas, and how the riches of Sheen vines may be im- 
 proved by half-a-dozen sorts which are not known here." 
 Elsewhere he speaks of laying out a thousand pounds upon 
 his garden. 
 
 William III. visited Sir William Temple at Sheen from 
 time to time, but the great significance to Richmond of Sir 
 William's residence here is that with him was his secretary, 
 Jonathan Swift, and that here began the strange romance 
 between Swift and Hester Johnson, the true details of which 
 have remained to this day one of the unelucidated mysteries 
 of literary history. Richmond can boast a special relationship
 
 to the famous Journal to Stella, since it was the outcome of 
 an acquaintance begun in the town. 
 
 In the Old Deer Park, near the site of the Priory, was a 
 house known as The Lodge, erected by John Colet, Dean of 
 St. Paul's, who died there in 15 19. Cardinal Wolsey occupied 
 the house for a short time when his downfall had already 
 begun, and Cardinal Pole lived in it for a couple of years. 
 
 In Queen Anne's reign it was granted to James, Duke 
 of Ormond, and he pulled down Colet's building and erected 
 a new mansion for his own occupation. After his impeach- 
 ment his brother, the Earl of Arran, purchased it, and sub- 
 sequently sold it to George II., then Prince of Wales. His 
 Queen, Caroline of Anspach, had a strong partiality for the 
 place, and spent a great deal of money on ornamenting thq 
 gardens with buildings and figures in her peculiar taste. 
 There were "Merlin's Cave," "The Hermitage," "The 
 Menagerie," "The Library," and so on, and a person who 
 passed for a poet, by the name of Stephen Duck, was installed 
 as librarian. 
 
 The Lodge, as rebuilt, seems from existing views of it to 
 have been a particularly plain and severe building, hence 
 possibly the Queen's gropings after the romantic and pic- 
 turesque in the decoration of her grounds. 
 
 Here Sir Robert Walpole announced to the Prince of 
 Wales the death, at Osnaburg, of his father. King George I. 
 The scene is pourtrayed very vividly by Thackeray in The 
 Four Georges, but his account appears to lose in accuracy 
 what it gains in dramatic quality ; and the main incident of 
 the interview seems to have been the unpalatable instructions 
 given by the new King to Sir Robert, " Go to Chiswick and 
 take your directions from Sir Spencer Compton." 
 
 The King soon learned, however, that Sir Robert was a 
 more valuable minister to him than Compton, and Sir Robert 
 remained in power. 
 
 Richmond Lodge and Somerset House, with ;^ioo,ooo 
 a year, were apportioned to Queen Caroline by Parliament,
 
 "just double," Lord Hervey says, " what any Queen of Eng- 
 land had ever had before." 
 
 In connection with this house a glimpse of the unhappy 
 relations between George II. and his son Frederick, Prince 
 of Wales, is afforded us. 
 
 When Queen Caroline was in her last illness the King 
 had the Lord Chancellor fetched to him off the Bench, to give 
 his opinion as to the Prince of Wales' claims on Richmond 
 Lodge as heir to his mother. It turned out that the King 
 had a life interest, and he survived his son. 
 
 The Lodge was demolished about 1770, when George 
 III., who had frequently resided there in the early years of 
 his reign, converted the whole into a pasturage for cattle. A 
 new residence on the site is said to have been begun by the 
 King, but abandoned. 
 
 About the middle of the Old Deer Park is the Royal 
 Observatory, erected 1768-9 by George III. from designs by 
 Sir William Chambers. 
 
 Apart from those places concerning which separate 
 notes are given, there is little to speak of in Richmond that is 
 not modern and uninteresting. All that part of the town that 
 is bounded by the Park on one side, the Hill on the second, 
 and the Sheen Road on the third, is the growth of the last 
 few years, and the same may be said of all the buildings in 
 the main road towards Kew, and the various roads branching 
 off from it. 
 
 The Sheen Road contains a few buildings interesting 
 architecturally. At its extreme end towards Mortlake is 
 King's Farm Lodge, preserving the memory of a farm of 
 about 80 acres acquired by King George III., which he used 
 to ride over from Kew to supervise and inspect. A house 
 close by is known as the Manor House. Whether a subsidiary 
 manor is attached to it or not, the available books of reference 
 do not make clear. But that the Manor House of Richmond 
 was the old Palace is evident from the gibe which the inhabit-
 
 ants flung at Wolsey when he took up his quarters there after 
 giving Hampton Court to the King^" Soe a butcher's dogge 
 dothe lie in the Manor of Richmond "—alluding, of course, to 
 his reputed parentage. The Palace, indeed, seems to have 
 been known as the King's Manor of Shene, Richmond Court, 
 and Richmond House, but only rarely as the Palace. 
 
 A portion of the Sheen Road near to the town was 
 known until recent years as Marshgate, and one can but 
 regret that a name with old associations should have been 
 obliterated. Hereabouts is a pleasant old group of eighteenth 
 century houses known as Spring Terrace ; a fine old house 
 called Marshgate House, with a handsome iron entrance gate 
 of somewhat intricate workmanship ; a huge seventeenth 
 century red brick winged mansion, which has within the last 
 few years been divided into three separate houses by par- 
 titioning off the wings from the centre block ; and Lichfield 
 House, a plain but dignified building, the residence for many 
 years past of Mrs. John Maxwell, who by her maiden name, 
 M. E. Braddon, is known as one of the most popular women 
 novelists of the reign. 
 
 George Street, the " High " Street of the town, retains few 
 interesting features, so much that was old having given place 
 to "commanding business premises." Its tortuousness and 
 narrowness remains, however. A good idea of the appearance 
 of that part of the street called the Quadrant, before the mo- 
 dern buildings were erected, is to be gained from a view, in 
 Mr. Chancellor's History, of the old omnibus office, where 
 tickets for the journey to London used to be obtained, at one 
 time for two shillings each, but later for a shilling. 
 
 Of old buildings in George Street, the only one that 
 unmistakeably appears in Overton's 1710 view is that now 
 occupied by Messrs. W. J. and A. Long, auctioneers and 
 surveyors. The modern police station at the side of it has 
 reduced it by the width of one whole gable end, but the 
 Jacobean character of the remaining gable is unaltered, in 
 despite of stucco.
 
 There are a few quaint cottages surrounding the church- 
 yard, and one or two nice old houses in Church Terrace, just 
 beyond. 
 
 Richmond is the background of at least two famous 
 scenes in fiction. 
 
 The first is in The Heart of Midlothian. Sir Walter 
 Scott makes use of Queen Caroline's habitual residence at 
 Richmond to stage here the famous interview between Jeanie 
 Deans and the Queen, although he seems to have blundered 
 about the position of the Queen's house, The Lodge, and 
 placed it in the Park itself, instead of in the Old Deer Park. 
 
 The other is in Peiidennis. Thackeray takes the whole 
 family to Richmond after the recovery of Arthur from his 
 illness in the Temple, and here Helen and the Major have 
 their battle over the supposed delinquencies of the hero. We 
 read too, " At Piccadilly, waiting for the Richmond omnibus, 
 George [Warrington] fell in with Major Pendennis, bound in 
 the same direction." He tells the Major how Fanny is 
 finding consolation. Says the Major : " When I used to read 
 Teleniaque at school. Calypso ne pouvait se consolait, I used to 
 say it was absard. Absard, by Gad, and so it is." 
 
 The bibliographer, noting that the preface to Browning's 
 Pauline is dated from Richmond, 1832, might conclude that 
 here was another literary connection with the old town, but 
 the poet's son states that the name was only used as a blind 
 to conceal the real place of origin of the volume. 
 
 Wordsworth wrote here his stanzas, " Remembrance of 
 Collins, composed upon the Thames near Richmond." 
 
 The Collected Poems of Mr. William Watson contain 
 some " Lines written in Richmond Park." 
 
 But the loveliest poem associated with the district is the 
 unnamed one by Mr. VV. E. Henley, in his volume, A Book of 
 Verses, from which two detached fragments are quoted on 
 the title-page of this book.-
 
 PLATE II. 
 
 THE OLD PALACE 
 
 FROM RICHMOND GREEN

 
 RICHMOND PALACE 
 
 THE first monarch to reside at Shene was Henry I., 
 about the year 1125. 
 
 From his time, until the latter part of the reign 
 of Edward I., no king seems to have lived there ; but 
 Edward I.'s negotiations with the Scottish nobles, after the 
 death of William Wallace, were transacted at Shene. 
 
 Edward II. passed some time there, his grant of the 
 Barony of Alnwick to the Percys being dated from Shene in 
 1 3 10; and Edward HI. had a great partiality for the place, 
 and kept open house there. His death took place at Shene 
 on the 2ist of June, 1377, a few days after he had received 
 there the commissioners from Calais, who came to treat for 
 peace between England and France. 
 
 Richard II. used the palace as a summer residence, and 
 great alterations and additions were made to it in his reign, 
 Chaucer, the poet, being the Clerk of the Works. This king 
 is said to have entertained thousands of persons daily, he and 
 his queen each having three hundred servants. 
 
 At Shene Palace, on the 7th June, 1394, Richard I I.'s 
 Queen, Anne of Bohemia, died, and the King acquired in 
 consequence such a distaste for the place that he ordered it to 
 be dismantled and destroyed. 
 
 In a half-ruinous condition it remained till the time of 
 Henry V., who had it rebuilt, and made it "longe magnifi- 
 centius quam in estatum pristinum." 
 
 Henry VI. and his Queen, Margaret of Anjou, resided 
 here, and Edward IV. also. This latter king granted it for 
 life to his Queen, Elizabeth Woodville.
 
 Henry YII. added still further to the palace, and ren- 
 dered it more sumptuous, and it became his chief residence. 
 
 In 1492 a grand tournament was held on the green 
 outside the palace, and a combat between Sir James Parker 
 and Hueh Vaughan resulted in the death of Parker. 
 
 The palace of Shene up to this time was probably only 
 a large building, half fortress and half country-house, and 
 moated. It would bear signs of its patchwork construction, 
 a piece added here and there at the whim of the resident 
 monarch for the time being. But nothing remains to give 
 one an idea of its general appearance. In 1499 it was destroyed 
 by fire. 
 
 Henry VII. immediately set about erecting the new 
 palace, the general configuration of which is familiar to us 
 from the numerous views that exist. The new building was 
 completed in 1501, and from that date the place becomes 
 known as Richmond instead of Shene, Henry conferring upon 
 it the name of the town in Yorkshire from which he derived 
 the title he bore before he ascended the throne. 
 
 A description of the palace at this time, from a manu- 
 script written in 1503, printed in Grose and Astell's Anti- 
 quarian Repertory, is of extreme interest. The great hall 
 had portraits of the sovereigns of England, including Henry 
 himself, between the windows. The chapel was hung with 
 arras and cloth of gold ; its altar encrusted with gold and 
 jewels ; its walls painted with the effigies of royal saints. 
 From the fragment that remains, one gathers that the general 
 appearance, close at hand, must have been much the same as 
 that of Hampton Court. But viewed from a little distance, 
 the tout ensemble was singularly un-English. A perfect forest 
 of turrets reared itself towards the river front, and the peculiar 
 cupolas which surmounted them had, as Dr. Garnett remarks, 
 a strong affinity to the Saracenic type of architecture. The 
 close relations then existing between the courts of England 
 and Spain may well have accounted for this. Of the views 
 by Hollar, Wynyarde, and Vinckenboom, probably that of 
 
 10
 
 Hollar gives the most vivid presentment of the river frontage. 
 The view by Buck, 1737, only shows a trifle more of the 
 building than the still remaining fragment west of the green. 
 Overton's plan of the town, 17 10, gives some idea of the 
 ground plan of the buildings, although a number of them had 
 then made way for buildings of the Queen Anne type. 
 
 Henry VH. established a library in the palace, and some 
 items from his privy purse expenses show that he could be 
 lavish in directions where his taste demanded expenditure. 
 He pays "To a Frenshman for certain bokes, ;^56. 4^-. odP 
 And again, " To a Frenshman for printed bokes, ^10. 5^. od." 
 On another occasion, Quentin Paulet, the librarian, receives 
 twenty pounds " for bokes." 
 
 The miscellaneous extracts from the expense books of 
 Henry and his Queen, printed by Mr. Chancellor, are of the 
 highest interest. There are numerous disbursements to ex- 
 plorers, and to those who brought rarities to the King, in his 
 book ; and to the bringers of delicacies for the table, or gay 
 apparel in that of the Queen ; but all showing a spirit quite 
 contrary to that penuriousness which has been so closely 
 associated with the name of the seventh Henry. 
 
 Here, during the interval between the death of her first 
 husband. Prince Arthur, and her marriage with the second, 
 Prince Henry, afterwards Henry VI H., Catharine of Arragon 
 resided ; and here, in 1509, Henry VII. died. His will, dated 
 at Richmond, provides for his burial at Westminster in the 
 new chapel he had built adjoining the Abbey, and orders the 
 completion of it with funds he had provided for the purpose ; 
 and the Prior of the Charter House at Shene gets 500 marks 
 for the use of the brotherhood. 
 
 Henry VIII. resided constantly at Richmond, and here 
 he kept the first Christmas after his accession. And here, on 
 New Year's Day, 15 11, his Queen, Catherine of Arragon, 
 gave birth to a son. On the life of this infant hung, perhaps, 
 more than on that of any child born in or near Richmond up 
 to our own days. His survival would, almost certainly, have 
 
 II c— 2
 
 prevented the divorce of his parents, and altered the whole 
 course of the English reformation. He died, however, in less 
 than two months, and was buried at Westminster. 
 
 In 1523 the Emperor Charles V. visited Henry at Rich- 
 mond, with an immense retinue ; and in the same year 
 Cardinal Wolsey, having completed and presented to Henry 
 the palace of Hampton Court, Richmond Palace was assigned 
 to Wolsey as a place of residence. 
 
 After Wolsey's death it was part of the provision bestowed 
 upon Anne of Cleves when the king divorced her. 
 
 Edward VI. chose it as his permanent abode, but his 
 physicians urged him to use Hampton Court instead. 
 
 Queen Mary was at Richmond when Wyatt's rebellion 
 broke out, and here she spent three weeks of her honeymoon 
 with Philip of Spain. She kept her sister Elizabeth a 
 prisoner here for some time. 
 
 After her accession, Elizabeth constantly used Richr 
 mond as a residence. She received here the embassy from 
 France with respect to her proposed marriage with the Duke 
 of Anjou, and Eric IV., King of Sweden, was her guest 
 here. 
 
 At Richmond the Queen received the Commissioners 
 who came to urge the carrying out of the execution of Mary, 
 Queen of Scots. 
 
 She retired here in 1603 in ill health, it having been 
 thought the air of Richmond would prove beneficial to her ; 
 but she died at the palace shordy afterwards ; and the last 
 grand pageant connected with Richmond Palace was her 
 funeral procession by water to Westminster. 
 
 James I. preferred Windsor, but his son, Prince Henry, 
 made the palace his home, and here accumulated a fine col- 
 lection of pictures, which was, when he died at an early age, 
 from the effects of bathing in the river at Richmond, dis- 
 persed amongst other palaces of the king. 
 
 Three years the palace was deserted, and then Prince 
 Charles came here to live, and also made a collection of pic- 
 
 12
 
 tures ; on his accession he almost discontinued his visits, 
 preferring Windsor as his father had done. 
 
 The parHament ordered his son, Prince Charles, afterwards 
 Charles II., to reside here in 1641, with Duppa, his tutor. 
 
 In 1649, at the death of the king, his collections here 
 and elsewhere were sold ; and it was at this date that the 
 survey was made from which most is to be learned of the 
 actual extent of the palace before it began to fall into decay. 
 This survey is printed in full in Mr. Chancellor's History. 
 The great hall was 100 feet long and 40 feet wide, the chapel 
 96 feet long and 40 feet wide. The round tower, called the 
 Canted Tower, had 124 steps, and an open gallery, adjoining 
 the Prince's garden was 200 feet long. The palace buildings 
 altogether covered an area of about 10 acres. 
 
 It was sold by the parliament in 1650, and purchased by 
 three gentlemen jointly, who in turn sold it to Sir Gregory 
 Norton. Norton, having sat on the trial of the king and 
 signed the death-warrant, had to surrender his purchase to 
 the crown on the restoration of King Charles II., but escaped 
 with his life. 
 
 It was subsequently given to the Queen Dowager for a 
 residence, but she left it in 1665, and it was then almost 
 entirely neglected. 
 
 The children of the Duke of York (James II.) were 
 placed here under the charge of Lady Frances Villiers, their 
 governess, and the Duke, after his accession, is said to have 
 executed some repairs. But from that date the royal family 
 practically ceased to have any connection with the palace. 
 
 By Mr. Scott's courtesy, the writer was allowed to see 
 the portion of the palace which he occupies — that part facing 
 the green. The insertion of eighteenth century windows has 
 robbed the apartments of much of their air of antiquity. A 
 vaulted passage from the entrance hall, the handsome main 
 staircase, and the room over the archway, in which Queen 
 Elizabeth's death is said to have taken place, are the chief 
 points of interest. 
 
 13
 
 The adjoining portion, facing the courtyard and forming 
 a separate residence, is apparently the part referred to in 
 a letter of Disraeli's, quoted by Dr. Garnett : — 
 
 May 2, 1849. 
 
 " I have been to see Metternich. He lives on Rich- 
 mond Green, in the most charming house in the world, called 
 the Old Palace — long library, gardens, everything worthy of 
 him. I met there the Duchess of Cambridge and the Collo- 
 redos. I am enchanted with Richmond Green, which, strange 
 to say, I don't recollect ever having visited before, often as I 
 have been to Richmond. I should like to let my house and 
 live there. It is still and sweet, charming alike in summer 
 and winter." 
 
 The part of the palace remaining is thus described in the 
 survey of 1649 : — 
 
 " The Wardrobe and other offices consist of three fayr 
 Ranges of Building-, embattled, and guttered with Lead, and 
 tyled in the Roof two stories high, lying round one fayr and 
 spacious Court, 66 Yards long and 60 Yards broad, all paved, 
 conteyning very many good Rooms and Lodgings both on 
 the first and second storie, and divers garrets, and one fayr 
 Payr of strong Gates, leaded, arched, and battled, with Stone 
 overhead, leading into the said Court from the Green lying 
 before Richmond House." 
 
 Few objects are mentioned in the survey as remaining 
 In the rooms or courtyards. One wonders what became of 
 the eleven Statues in the sides of the Great Hall, and of the 
 " fayr Case of Carved Work for a Payr of Organs " in the 
 chapel. The "one very large Fountain of Lead" in the 
 court, enclosed by the hall, chapel, and other buildings, is 
 said to be the one preserved at Lord Windsor's seat, St. 
 Ervans, in Glamorganshire. 
 
 14
 
 RICHMOND GREEN 
 
 THIS lies on the east side of the old palace, between it 
 and the Old Deer Park. It has a curiously secluded 
 air for a place so close to a main thoroughfare out 
 of London, and even now retains, in the trees that border it, 
 a rookery. The point of view selected by Mr. Way, known 
 as " Greenside," is, the palace apart, the most picturesque 
 remnant of the old stateliness of the green. 
 
 Maid of Honour Row, which flanks the palace, has 
 greater dignity from the larger size of the houses and their 
 uniformity. The flat Georgian fronts, the centering of the 
 doorways, the lawns that separate them from the footpath, 
 and the contemporary tall iron railings and gates, all add to 
 the austere aloofness which is their main note. 
 
 I n Greenside we have a diversity of elevation and of detail, 
 a broken skyline, and an irregularity in the ground-line from 
 one group standing out nearer to the roadway than another. 
 
 Several of the houses have elaborately-carved frames 
 and copings to the doors. 
 
 In the view and plan of Richmond by Overton, con- 
 jecturally dated 1710, which hangs in the Free Library, a 
 number of the houses still standing can be identified, and 
 one, of decided Tudor type, which appears in the view, may 
 possibly be that now known as Gothic House, disguised by a 
 modern stucco front. 
 
 Immediately facing Greenside, on the site of the present 
 Pembroke Villas, formerly stood a house which was, at one 
 time, the residence of Sir Charles Hedges, Secretary of State 
 under Queen Anne ; then of Sir Matthew Decker, who added 
 to it a large room for the entertainment of George I. ; and 
 
 15
 
 later still of Viscount Fitzwilliam, who formed here the col- 
 lection of books and pictures which he bequeathed to the 
 University of Cambridge, and which is now housed in the 
 Fitzwilliam Museum in that city. 
 
 Amongst the treasures of the collection are original 
 scores of works by Handel (Lord Fitzwilliam was mainly 
 instrumental in founding- the Handel Festivals), a number of 
 beautifully illuminated manuscripts, and a small volume known 
 as Queen Elizabeth's Virginal Book, written for her by Tallis, 
 Giles Farnaby, William Byrd, Dr. Bull, and over twenty 
 other composers. 
 
 The best known of the old views of Richmond Palace 
 and Richmond Hill are engravings from paintings by Vinc- 
 kenboom in the Fitzwilliam Collection. 
 
 On the west side of the green, near the old palace, 
 formerly stood a house of Observant Friars, of the order of 
 St. Francis — the Little Brothers, or Friars Minor. It was 
 founded in 1499 by Henry VII., and suppressed, according 
 to Hollinshed and Stow, in 1534. 
 
 In the survey of 1649 a building adjoining the Palace is 
 called " The Friars," and is described as containing " three 
 rooms below styrs, and four handsome rooms above styrs." 
 It was at that time used as a chandler's shop. A rare en- 
 graving shows that the Friary was a building of considerable 
 extent, so that the part noticed in the 1649 survey must have 
 been a mere fragment of the original establishment. 
 
 Friar's Lane, which leads from the west side of the 
 green to the river, perpetuates the memory of this religious 
 house, and a modern residence adjoining, once the property of 
 the Marquis of Hertford, is still known as " The Old Friars." 
 
 At the north-west corner of the green, just where Old 
 Palace Lane runs down to the river, formerly stood the old 
 Richmond Theatre, built in 1765 — 6 for James Dance, for 
 whom, on the occasion of the opening of the theatre, Garrick 
 wrote a prologue. During its existence it had on its boards 
 such actors as Garrick, Macready, Charles Young, Munden, 
 
 16
 
 PLATE III. 
 GREENSIDE 
 RICHMOND GREEN
 
 Ill .IT; 1 > 
 
 'A'
 
 
 '^ ,^-^«^^ "'--J^w^ 
 
 TfV t 
 
 
 -.-^ 
 
 
 ^a"«; 
 
 »^js*.,f-- >-
 
 Quick, Listen, Buckstone, Charles Mathews, Edmund and 
 Charles Kean, Mrs. Siddons, Miss Foote, Madame Vestris, 
 Mrs. Jordan, and Helen Faucit (Lady Martin) who made her 
 dtbut here. 
 
 In 1833 Edmund Kean died in the old house which 
 adjoined the theatre, and which was, with it, demolished a 
 few years since. He was buried in the parish churchyard, 
 and on the wall of the church, near the tower, is a monument 
 to his memory, on which is sculptured a medallion portrait of 
 the great actor. 
 
 At the foot of a play-bill, dated June 29, 1 792, announcing 
 the fifth night of Mr. Quick's engagement as " Scrub " in The 
 Beaux Stratagem, is the following note : — 
 
 "In consequence of many reports of Robberies said to 
 have been Committed, the Manager has provided a tvell armd 
 Patrol of Eight Men, who, together with Others from the 
 Public Office, will constantly attend, on Play Nights, on the 
 several Roads leading to Richmond." 
 
 So attendance at the little old theatre was in those days 
 accompanied by perils that do not threaten the visitors to its 
 modern successor on the Little Green. 
 
 Facing the Little Green, on the site where now stands 
 a large modern house of uninteresting character, appears, in 
 the 1 7 10 view, a fine Elizabethan mansion, labelled Esq. 
 Michill's. Other houses of architectural importance are 
 shown in this view, both on the Little Green and on the east 
 side of the Green itself, but those at present standing are all 
 of comparatively modern construction, as are those on the 
 north side. 
 
 At the corner of Duke Street, where now the Gas Offices 
 stand, was formerly a school of some repute, kept by the Rev. 
 Charles Delafosse. His most notable pupil was Richard 
 Francis Burton, afterwards Sir Richard, the famous scholar 
 and traveller, and one of the heroic figures of the Victorian 
 age. Whilst at the school he and his brother lived in one of 
 the houses in Maid of Honour Row. 
 
 17 D
 
 THE PARISH CHURCH, RICHMOND 
 
 THE first notice of the existence of a church at Richmond 
 occurs in the year 1339, at which time there was a 
 " Chapel at Schene." 
 
 In the MS. book of expenses of Henry VH. there 
 appears this entry: — ''Item. Given to ye Parish Gierke of 
 Richmonde, towards ye building of his new Ghurch, ;^5. 
 
 The Princess Margaret, eldest daughter of Henry VH. 
 and Elizabeth of York, was formally betrothed to King 
 James IV. of Scotland in January, 1502, in the Chapel at 
 Shene, but this was almost undoubtedly the private chapel 
 attached to the Palace. 
 
 Of the original building but a very small portion remains. 
 The tower is probably the oldest fragment, and it has been so 
 groomed in restoration as to lose most of its appearance of 
 antiquity. It is of stone and flint. 
 
 The chancel is evidently of Tudor date, and was pro- 
 bably part of the edifice towards the cost of which Henry VII, 
 contributed ^5. It is of red brick, with the black brick diaper, 
 characteristic of the period, still plainly discernible. 
 
 The church is said to have been "enlarged and much 
 improved" in 1750, and it was doubtless at this date that the 
 old nave and aisles disappeared to make way for the some- 
 what dreary looking block of buildings which now extends 
 between the tower and the chancel. 
 
 A steeple is spoken of in 1630, and again in 1701, but 
 no view exists in which any superstructure to the tower is 
 shown. 
 
 19 D — 2
 
 The church and churchyard are full of interesting monu- 
 ments ; in the church may be noted the following : — 
 
 One, dating from about 1574, to the memory of Mr. 
 Robert Cotton, " Officer of the Remooving Wardroppe of 
 Bedds unto Queen Marie." 
 
 Memorials to Sir George Wright (1623) and his wife 
 (163 1 ), that to the lady having figures of herself, the knight, 
 three sons, and four daughters upon it. 
 
 One to " Ladye Margaret Chudleigh, daughter of Sir 
 William Courtney, of Powderham," 1628. 
 
 One to " Masywrite, ye vertuous wife of Thomas Jay, 
 Esq., in these unhappy warres his Majesties Coniissary 
 General for provisions for all his Armyes of horse," 1646. 
 
 Three to the memory of the Rev. George Wakefield, 
 1776, the Rev. Gilbert Wakefield, 1801, and the Rev. 
 Thomas Wakefield, 1806. Thomas Wakefield held the 
 living of Richmond for thirty years, but his brother Gilbert 
 is the better known of the two. 
 
 One to Henry, Viscount Brouncker, cofferer to King 
 Charles II., 1687. Viscount Brouncker's brother William 
 was the first president of the Royal Society. 
 
 To Mrs. Mary Ann Yates, the celebrated tragic actress, 
 and to Lady Diana Beauclerk, the friend of Horace Walpole 
 and Dr. Johnson, there are also memorials. 
 
 In the churchyard the most notable memorial is that to 
 Dr. John Moore, who died at Richmond in 1802. He was 
 known in his day as a writer of some repute, but it is of more 
 interest nowadays to record that he was the father of the 
 celebrated Sir John Moore, whose burial in Spain, during 
 the Peninsular War, is the subject of one of the best known 
 of modern English poems. 
 
 In the churchyard were also laid to rest, in 1748, the 
 remains of James Thomson, the poet of The Seasons, to 
 whose memory a brass tablet, with an inscription, was erected 
 in 1792 by the Earl of Buchan. 
 
 Thomson resided in a cottage in the Kew Foot Road, 
 
 20
 
 PLATE IV. 
 
 THE PARISH CHURCH 
 
 RICHMOND
 
 which successive additions expanded into a spacious house. 
 It was eventually still further enlarged and converted into a 
 hospital for Richmond. 
 
 The poet's rooms were for a long time shown to visitors, 
 with one or two articles of furniture which he had used 
 habitually ; and a small summer house in the garden had an 
 inscription placed above it by Mrs. Boscawen, who subse- 
 quently occupied the house : " Here Thomson sung the 
 Seasons and their change." 
 
 Thomson was often visited here by Pope and other 
 notabilities, including Ouin, the actor, concerning whom it is 
 recorded that the poet's housekeeper objected to his visits on 
 the ground that he encouraged her master to drink. 
 
 The most interesting entry in the parish register is that 
 recording the baptism, on March 20th, 1680 — i, of Hester, 
 daughter of Edward Johnson, the lady who was afterwards, 
 under the name of "Stella," to be immortalized by Dean 
 Swift. 
 
 The church is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. 
 
 21
 
 RICHMOND BRIDGE 
 
 THIS bridge, the demolition of which has been threatened 
 for some time past, was begun in 1774, the first stone 
 being laid by the Hon. Henry Hobart, and was com- 
 pleted and opened for public use in December, 1777. It con- 
 sists of five arches, which span the river to the extent of 
 about 300 feet, and there are several smaller ones at either 
 end to make the approaches less precipitous. As it is, it is 
 not an easy bridge for vehicular traffic. The centre arch is 
 twenty-five feet high by sixty feet wide. The whole is built 
 of stone, and the architects were Messrs. Paine and Couse, 
 If with Maurice, the author of the long descriptive poem on 
 Richmond, one cannot say 
 
 " There Attic elegance and strength unite," 
 
 one may at least say 
 
 " And fair proportion's charms the eyes delight." 
 
 The bridge is extremely graceful, the outline of the parapet 
 broken by the semicircular bays ; and one cannot help wishing, 
 as one did about Kew Bridge, which has disappeared since 
 Mr. Way published his drawing of it last year, that it might 
 be left standing for foot passengers, and its successor for the 
 heavier traffic erected on another site. 
 
 The bridge replaced a ferry which had existed for up- 
 wards of three centuries on that spot, and in the books of 
 expenses of Henry VIII. and the Princess Mary there are 
 frequent entries of payments for ferriage at Richmond. 
 
 Three sites were proposed for the bridge when its 
 erection was being discussed. One was at the end of Water 
 
 33
 
 Lane, and so in a direct line with George Street, the main 
 thoroughfare of the town ; one at Heron Court ; and the third 
 the place in which it actually stands. 
 
 The bridge cost ^26,000, most of which was raised on 
 Tontine shares. In 1859 the last survivor of the original 
 tontine having died, the bridge was declared open toll free. 
 
 The old toll-houses were subsequently removed, but an 
 engraving exists of the bridge, looking across to Twickenham, 
 in which they appear. 
 
 In the Richmond Free Library is preserved one of the 
 old leather satchels for money used by a toll keeper. 
 
 The ironwork of the lamps, etc., until recent years, har- 
 monized perfectly with the structure, but some modern lamps 
 have been added which have nothing of the elegance of the 
 older work, and which strike a jarring note. 
 
 On the Twickenham shore, flanking the piece of the 
 bridge that carries it on to the level of the main road, is a 
 magnificent row of poplars, which is a prominent feature of 
 the landscape from whatever standpoint regarded. It is to 
 be hoped that, whatever be the fate of the bridge, these 
 poplars may be spared, more especially as the rural character 
 of the road a little further beyond the bridge has already been 
 dissipated by the erection of a row of shops. 
 
 The bridge appears in one of Turner's pictures, and the 
 ferry that preceded it in a picture by Marco Ricci, which is 
 reproduced in Dr. Garnett's monograph. 
 
 24
 
 PLATE V. 
 THE BRIDGE 
 RICHMOND
 
 
 

 
 THE TRUMPETING HOUSE 
 
 PASSING from the Green through the gateway of the 
 old Palace into the courtyard, this house is seen in the 
 further left-hand corner. It is designated "The Old 
 Palace " also, and of course occupies a part of the site of the 
 demolished buildings of Tudor times. 
 
 The name of The Trumpeting House is supposed to 
 have been given to it on account of two life-sized statues in 
 stone which formerly stood on either side of the doorway, and 
 are now stored in the cellars of the house. They are described 
 as " the figures of two boys in servitors' dresses, blowing 
 trumpets," but the trumpets appear to have become detached 
 (from the drawing of the statues which appears in Mr. Chan- 
 cellor's History of RichiuoncT) before the figures were removed 
 from their original stations. 
 
 From the courtyard the house has no particular claim to 
 attention, but its front, which appears in Mr. Way's drawing, 
 seen from Cholmondeley Walk, just opposite Twickenham 
 Park, is stately and impressive. It is of red brick, which time 
 has mellowed, with stone dressings, a singularly harmonious 
 green slate roof, and an immense portico supported by stone 
 columns. The effect produced by the whole is more commonly 
 seen in America than in England. Many of the handsome 
 old country houses of the colonial period have very similar 
 elevations, and the taste for them has of late years revived to 
 such an extent that modern houses are being erected of the 
 same character. 
 
 The Trumpeting House was built by a Mr. Hill, brother 
 of the celebrated Abigail Hill, afterwards Mrs. Masham, who 
 was constantly intriguing against Sarah Jennings, first Duchess 
 
 25 E
 
 of Marlborough, for the main influence in the government of 
 Queen Anne. 
 
 It is curious that a connection of one of Queen Anne's 
 favourites should have obtained a grant of the site, as in her 
 younger days the Queen herself wished to acquire the building 
 which then stood there for a residence, but owing to the 
 existence of an unexpired lease was deterred from carrying 
 out her project. 
 
 The grounds, which are of about three acres in extent, 
 are handsomely wooded, and amongst other trees are a fine 
 cedar of Lebanon and some ancient yews. 
 
 Facing the river, a garden house, or tea house, is con- 
 structed out of a fragment of the old Palace, and behind it is 
 an old archway, with an iron gate finely wrought in a design 
 of roses, etc., and probably dating from the time of Henry 
 VII. 
 
 Between The Trumpeting House and Old Palace Lane 
 stands Asgill House, built by Sir Robert Taylor, a dis- 
 tinguished architect of the period, for Sir Charles Asgill, Lord 
 Mayor of London in 1758. The house is built of stone, and 
 in Vitruvius Briiannicus, where an engraving of it in its 
 original state appears; it is described as "of the Tuscan order, 
 after a design by Palladio, remarkable for its chaste and 
 simple elegance." 
 
 Between The Trumpeting House and Friar's Lane stands 
 the house known as Queensberry House. The present building 
 dates only from 1831, but it superseded a residence nearer 
 the river (of which a few arches remain in the grounds), which 
 was erected in 1708, or thereabouts, by the Earl of Chol- 
 mondeley, from which personage this piece of the river-front 
 acquired its name of Cholmondeley Walk. 
 
 From the Earl of Cholmondeley it passed through various 
 hands, and eventually into those of the Duke of Queensberry, 
 popularly known as " Old Q." He transferred here from his 
 Amesbury seat all his pictures and furniture, and entertained 
 there the witty George Selwyn, who was almost domesticated 
 
 26
 
 PLATE VI. 
 
 THE TRUMPETING HOUSE 
 
 RICHMOND
 
 ''')'
 
 in the house, Horace Walpole, the Duke of Clarence (after- 
 wards William IV.), the Prince of Wales (afterwards George j 
 IV.), and Mrs. Fitzherbert, with innumerable other notable j 
 people. J 
 
 It was here that, surveying the river from his windows, i 
 
 he made the petulant answer, that has been so often quoted, to ( 
 
 the praises bestowed on the Thames by his friends, " What i 
 
 is there to make so much of in the Thames ? I am quite ] 
 
 weary of it ; there it goes, flow, flow, flow, always the same !" | 
 
 Among the art treasures of the Duke was the tapestry ' 
 
 which had decorated the Court of Chancery during the Chan- ' 
 cellorship of the great Lord Clarendon, 
 
 27 
 
 E — 2
 
 THE RED LION INN 
 
 THIS inn is the most notable building in Red Lion Street, 
 a thoroughfare running south of the churchyard to 
 Hill Street. From Overton's view (about 1710), Red 
 Lion Street appears to have been almost as much used for 
 traffic, at one time, as George Street. The view shows 
 horsemen and carriages, approaching from "the road from 
 Clapham," and diverging at the point in the Marsh Gate, 
 whence either George Street or Red Lion Street could be 
 reached, in the direction of the latter. This seems to show 
 that Red Lion Street was a recognized approach to the Ferry. 
 It was undoubtedly more direct, but one marvels, passing 
 through it nowadays, that so narrow a road should have been 
 chosen when a wider one offered itself. 
 
 Going riverwards, a little after one has passed the 
 churchyard, the Red Lion stands back on the left of the 
 street. 
 
 It is, as Mr. Way's drawing shows, a building of some 
 antiquity, with its weather-boarded front, red tiled roof, 
 dormer window, massive chimney stack, and its sign-post on 
 the edge of the causeway. 
 
 But the legend inscribed between the windows, that it 
 was established in the year of grace 1520, is a specious 
 one. 
 
 A Red Lion Inn probably was established in that year, 
 but the year in which the license was transferred to the 
 present building, though it is not precisely known, is con- 
 jectured to have been no longer ago than 1755. 
 
 Prior to that date the inn, which, judging from Overton's 
 view, must have been one of the most, if not the most impor- 
 
 29
 
 tant in the town, occupied the site facing George Street and 
 Hill Street, on which are now erected numbers i, 2, 3, 4, and 
 5, George Street, with, of course, a frontage to the present 
 Red Lion Street in the rear. 
 
 From Overton's view one gathers that it was in the 
 Tudor style of architecture, probably of red brick with stone 
 dressings. A handsome pointed arch, which opens from the 
 George Street front, probably led to the regulation inn-yard 
 in which the accommodation for horses and carriages was 
 provided. Two large timber "gallows," with swinging signs 
 suspended, crossed Hill Street outside the inn. 
 
 It is the handsomest building in this part of the town 
 which is shown in Overton's view, and one can only sigh as 
 one looks at its modern successors. 
 
 Behind the present No. 4, George Street, says Mr, 
 Chancellor in 1894, the kitchen of the inn, with its ample 
 fire-place, is still to be seen. 
 
 In the Evening Post of February 28, 1736, appears this 
 
 advertisement : — 
 
 " Notice is hereby given that the old Red Lion Inn at Richmond 
 in Surrey, kept by Henry Fudger, Peruke Maker of that Place is now 
 opened, where Gentlemen, Ladies, and others will be entertained in the 
 best manner." 
 
 In 1638, William Crowne was here created Rouge Dragon 
 Pursuivant of Arms in Ordinary, and Mr. Dugdale was made 
 Blanch Lyon Pursuivant at the same time. The ceremony, 
 which is fully described, from an authentic source, in Mr. 
 Chancellor's History of Richmond, took place before the Earl 
 Marshall as President, in the presence of Sir John Borow, 
 Garter King of Arms ; Sir William Le Neve, Clarencieux 
 King of Arms ; and Sir Henry St. George, Norroy King of 
 Arms ; and the York, Richmond, and Chester Heralds. 
 
 It included a great number of obeisances, but the main 
 ceremony incident to the investiture seems to have been the 
 pouring by the Earl Marshall of a bowl of wine over the head 
 of each of the newly-created Pursuivants in turn. 
 
 30
 
 PLATE VII. 
 
 THE RED LION INN 
 
 RICHMOND
 
 There must have been some Idea akin to baptism in this 
 procedure, because the wine was poured on the head as the 
 Earl Marshall pronounced the word Creamus, and gave the 
 new Pursuivant his heraldic name. 
 
 31
 
 RICHMOND ALMSHOUSES 
 
 THE Almshouses shown in Mr. Way's drawing are those 
 in the Sheen Road erected in 1757 at the expense of 
 the Misses Houblon, who resided at Ellerker House, 
 Richmond Hill. 
 
 The only noticeable feature of the group of buildings is 
 the iron entrance-gate, which forms so important a part of 
 Mr. Way's view. 
 
 Richmond is rich in foundations of this character, but 
 they are either of a date which deprives them of any archi- 
 tectural interest, or, when of older foundation, the original 
 buildings have been demolished to make way for more recent 
 ones. 
 
 In the Vineyard opposite the Catholic Church are the 
 almshouses originally erected in 1695 by Humphrey Michel, 
 who died in 1696, aged 84. In 1810, these, having become 
 dilapidated, were rebuilt at an expense of about ,1^3000. Six 
 additional houses were erected in 1858. 
 
 Near to Michel's almshouses are those founded in 1661 
 by Brian Duppa, afterwards Bishop of Winchester, who 
 superintended the education, at Richmond Palace, of Prince 
 Charles, afterwards Charles II. The endowment is derived 
 from a farm at Shepperton. The inmates have assigned to 
 them on Christmas Eve a fine barn-door fowl and a pound of 
 bacon, and are allowed ;^i. 155. monthly. Over the entrance 
 are these words : "Deo et Carolo, Votiva Tabula. I will pay 
 the vows which I made to God in my trouble " — an inscrip- 
 tion which, though combining the devotion to God and King 
 which characterized the Royalist of those times, must yet 
 yield the palm for simplicity and directness to one which 
 
 33 F
 
 appears on the front of the almshouses erected at the back of 
 Silver Hall, Isleworth, a mile or two away, in 1664, by Sir 
 Thomas Ingram, Kt., Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, 
 the tablet on which bears merely the words, " Ex Do no Dei 
 Deo." 
 
 Bishop Duppa must have enjoyed the confidence and 
 affection of his king to the fullest, for Charles II. visited him 
 at Richmond on March 22nd, 1662, a few hours before his 
 death. 
 
 Adjoining the Duppa Almhouses are those founded in 
 1600 by Sir George Wright, commonly known as Queen 
 Elizabeth's Almshouses, doubtless because of the Royal Arms 
 sculptured in the stone work. 
 
 The original site of these almshouses was in the Lower 
 Road adjoining Camborne House, but they were removed to 
 their present position in 1767, and rebuilt by subscription on 
 a plot of ground given by a Mr. William Turner. 
 
 Another group of almshouses, of more recent foundation, 
 is that known as Hickey's, in the Sheen Road, some distance 
 beyond the Houblon Almshouses depicted in the drawing, 
 and on the opposite side of the road. The existing buildings 
 date only from 1834, but the charity was founded in 1727. 
 
 34
 
 PLATE VIII. 
 
 THE HOUBLON ALMSHOUSES 
 
 IN SHEEN ROAD RICHMOND
 
 wf^jmwy, 

 
 RICHMOND HILL 
 
 THIS thoroughfare, which, for all practical purposes, may 
 be said to run from the end of George Street to the 
 gates of Richmond Park, is best known to the world 
 at the part known as The Terrace. 
 
 From this point the prospect is one of unsurpassed beauty, 
 with its wealth of woodland lighted up by the long sinuous 
 line of the Thames. If we cannot, with Thomson, talk of a 
 " boundless landscape," Harrow and Windsor can both be seen 
 under favourable atmospheric conditions. 
 
 Mr. Way's drawing was made before the trees had begun 
 to put on their spring dress, and is the only view from the 
 Hill known to me which is not a leafy one. 
 
 Turner painted of it a picture which he exhibited in 
 1819. 
 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, too, painted it ; one of his few 
 landscapes. Sir Joshua's picture was sold in 1821 with Lady 
 Thomand's collection, and purchased by Samuel Rogers, the 
 banker-poet, for 155 guineas. At the sale of Rogers' collec- 
 tion in 1856, its value, to a dealer, had risen to 430 guineas. 
 
 Hofland painted several pictures of the view, the most 
 notable being now in the Hall of the Grocers' Company. 
 Amongst other artists who have depicted it, have been P. de 
 Wint and G. Barrett. 
 
 The place exercised a wonderful fascination, too, upon 
 others, besides artists. 
 
 Vancouver, the circumnavigator, who now lies buried in 
 Petersham Churchyard, said : "In all my travels, I never 
 clapt eyes on a more beautiful spot than this. Here would I 
 live, and here would I die ! " V 
 
 15 F— 2
 
 Byron, familiar with Italy and Greece, pronounced it 
 " Ambrosial." 
 
 And Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, writing to her sister 
 in 1723, says : " Except in the Elysian shades of Richmond, 
 there's no such thing as love and pleasure." 
 
 The wooded character of the scenery is, however, of 
 quite modern development. 
 
 In a view by Hollar, dated 1638, from about the site of 
 the present Star and Garter, the palace stands out as plainly 
 as if it were only a couple of fields off ; there are practically 
 no trees to screen it. And the same may be said of Grignion's 
 eighteenth century engraving. 
 
 Close to the Park Gates is the famous hotel The Star 
 and Garter, one of the most celebrated in the United King- 
 dom. From humble beginnings in 1738, when the first inn 
 on the site was built — an interesting drawing by the antiquary 
 Grose is preserved in the British Museum — it has attained 
 its present palatial proportions. Viewed from the Twicken- 
 ham side, it rises out of the wooded slope of Petersham 
 Common somewhat after the fashion of a German castle ; but 
 its catering is more satisfactory than its architecture. 
 
 A few yards down the Queen's Road, just opposite, is an 
 inn known as The Lass of Richmond Hill. The song, with 
 its refrain, 
 
 I'd crowns resign to call her mine, 
 Sweet lass of Richmond Hill, 
 
 is known far and wide ; but the mystery attaching to the 
 authorship has never been satisfactorily settled. One thing 
 is certain : the pretty ballad was never written, as some have 
 stated, by King George III. Many writers aver that it was 
 at Richmond in Yorkshire, and not at the Thames-side Rich- 
 mond, that the Lass of the Ballad lived. 
 
 The next house below the Star and Garter, on the same 
 side of the hill, is Wick House, built for Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 by Sir William Chambers. It was a singularly unadorned 
 and unattractive house for a great artist. The carcase of the 
 
 36
 
 PLATE IX. 
 
 VIEW FROM THE TERRACE GARDENS 
 
 RICHMOND
 
 
 
 * r 
 
 
 J ■ 
 
 
 
 
 '^^V,., 
 
 
 i^;r 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 -^^ ^^^^-^^S-*--^ 
 
 c 
 
 v^ , 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^.. 
 
 ^ 4„fV'-^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 1"- 
 
 7 
 
 
 ^'1 
 
 > 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 > ^ T 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 - X- ■ -^ f 
 
 
 A-*^-^ 
 
 "'^-i' 
 
 '^^.i. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■J 
 
 -■>r-;x 
 
 -*^*1.
 
 building remains, but has been so entirely encased in stucco 
 that it has little resemblance to the original edifice. It is 
 stated that Turner was influenced in his choice of a site for 
 his house at Twickenham by the fact that he would see Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds' house from his windows. 
 
 The Queen's Hotel, a little below the Queen's Road, was 
 formerly known as Mansfield House, and was the property 
 of the Countess of Mansfield. Subsequently Mrs. Berthon 
 Preston resided here, and here was brought Gibson's cele- 
 brated statue, " The Tinted Venus," which she purchased at 
 the Great Exhibition of 1862. 
 
 At Downe House (opposite the Terrace), afterwards 
 subdivided into three separate residences, Richard Brinsley 
 Sheridan, the dramatist, lived. 
 
 Lansdowne House, formerly a residence of the Marquis 
 Wellesley, and later of the Prince de Joinville, stood in the 
 gardens adjoining the Terrace. The estate was purchased 
 in 1869 by the Duke of Buccleuch, who demolished the 
 mansion, and added the grounds to his own, immediately 
 below. When, in 1886, the Duke of Buccleuch parted with 
 his Richmond property to Sir J. Whittaker Ellis, these 
 grounds were, through the public spirit of certain of the 
 residents, and of the new owner, secured for the town, 
 and opened to the public, thus averting the disastrous "build- 
 ing operations," which would have always remained a possi- 
 bility whilst the land continued in private hands. They are 
 now known as " The Terrace Gardens." 
 
 Friar Stile Road (at the lower end of the Terrace), a 
 pleasant preservation of old nomenclature, may possibly en- 
 shrine the sole memory of some unrecorded religious 
 establishment. 
 
 Just below the Terrace Gardens is Cardigan House, 
 once the residence of the Earl of Cardigan. On this site, in 
 1689, a medicinal spring was discovered, and here the Rich- 
 mond Wells were opened in 1696. In the Post Boy, July 11, 
 1696, appeared this advertisement : — 
 
 37
 
 "At Richmond New Wells, a Concert of Music, both vocal and 
 instrumental, will be performed on Monday next, at noon, by the principal 
 bands and the best voices. Composed new for the day by Mr. Franks. 
 The songs will be printed and sold there." 
 
 The Wells appear to have reached the height of their 
 popularity in 1750, then to have decreased in public favour. 
 In 1775 the property was bought and the Wells closed by the 
 Misses Houblon, residents at Ellerker House opposite, who 
 found the mixed gatherings at the Wells disturbing to their 
 quietude. 
 
 The Vineyard, which branches townwards towards the 
 bottom of the Hill, points to a day when it was not thought 
 impossible to produce home-grown wine that should be worth 
 drinking. At Prospect Lodge, in this road, died, in 1865, 
 William Harvey, a pupil of Bewick, born at Newcastle in 
 1796. 
 
 Ormond Road, or Row, still lower down and nearly 
 opposite the Bridge, is a row of eighteenth-century houses, 
 similar to those pictured and described elsewhere in this 
 book. Its name is all that remains to recall the connection 
 with Richmond, until his impeachment, in 171 5, of the Duke 
 of Ormond. 
 
 Here, in 1841, lived T. C. Holland, the painter, and his 
 wife, Barbara Hofland. Hofland was a great angler, and 
 the facilities for fishing probably attracted him to Richmond, 
 He wrote, in 1839, "Thirty years ago at Mortlake, and be- 
 tween Isleworth and Richmond, I have seen from ten to 
 twenty salmon taken at a draught." Mrs. Hofland was a 
 popular writer of tales, and her story. The ^on of a Genius, 
 still has its admirers, 
 
 Theophilus and Colley Gibber had a theatre close by, on 
 the Hill, which in 1756, no license being obtainable, was 
 advertized as a " Cephalic Snuff Warehouse," where, having 
 presumably made your purchase of snuff, you were admitted 
 "without hire, gain, or reward," to public rehearsals of the 
 pupils of the "histrionic academy." 
 
 38
 
 Heron (formerly Herring) Court, just below the Bridge, 
 was formerly the site of the Royal Hotel. It is a beautiful 
 little nook, standing aloof from the heavy traffic of the 
 thoroughfare, and its handsome houses have a frontage to 
 the river. 
 
 A little below, the new municipal buildings have super- 
 seded the old Castle Hotel, the assembly rooms of which 
 often received as fashionable a crowd as those of Bath. 
 
 Between the new Castle Hotel and Water Lane is the 
 famous " Maid of Honour " shop, where the cheesecake so- 
 called has been sold for over a century ; and at the corner of 
 King Street (once known as Furbelow Street) and Water 
 Lane are the buildings of the once famous Feathers Inn. 
 The assembly room and other apartments, including the 
 original staircase, are still in existence, and form part of the 
 extensive premises in the rear of i and 2, King Street. 
 
 39
 
 WHITE LODGE 
 
 THIS house stands in Richmond Park between the Sheen i 
 
 Gate and the Robin Hood Gate, on a slight elevation | 
 
 and with wooded surroundings. 
 
 When George H., about 1728, made over the old Lodge 
 to Sir Robert Walpole, the White Lodge was built. His 
 Queen, Caroline, frequently lived here, and subsequently 
 their daughter, the Princess Amelia. 
 
 The Princess, as Ranger of Richmond Park, claimed the 
 right to exclude from the Park everyone who was unprovided 
 with a ticket of admission, and it was owing to the strenuous 
 exertions of John Lewis, a brewer of Richmond, who brought 
 
 an action at law against the Princess, in which her claims ■: 
 
 were disallowed, that the public rights of way in Richmond ^ 
 
 Park were established. j 
 
 The Princess, disgusted at the result of the trial, resigned ] 
 
 her rangership, and in 1 762 Lord Bute succeeded her. The 
 
 house is said to have fallen into decay at this time, but the I 
 
 decay must have been more decorative than structural, for in ' 
 
 1767 the wings were added. 
 
 George III. improved it considerably when he bestowed 
 it upon a favourite minister, Addington, afterwards Lord 
 
 Sidmouth. A view of the house at this time, reproduced in i 
 
 Dr. Garnett's Richmond-on-Thanies, shows the house sur- 
 rounded by a formal garden. 
 
 Pitt visited Addington here for the last time in 1805. j 
 
 But the most notable of Lord Sidmouth's visitors at the j 
 
 White Lodge was Nelson, a letter of whose, accepting the ' 
 
 invitation, is extant. His visit took place six weeks before 
 
 41 G
 
 the battle of Trafalgar, and on a table still preserved he drew, 
 with wine, the plan by which he proposed to break the enemy's 
 line, as in the event he actually did. 
 
 Her Majesty the Queen resided in retirement at the 
 White Lodge for about three weeks, subsequently to the 
 death of her mother, the Duchess of Kent ; and the Prince of 
 Wales occupied the house for a short time before his marriage. 
 The contents of the house were purchased by Her Majesty 
 after the death of her aunt, the Duchess of Gloucester, who 
 had resided there. 
 
 For some years it was the residence of the Duke and 
 Duchess of Teck, and it is owing to their occupancy that the 
 White Lodge has become so familiar a name in the district. 
 From this centre, until her sudden and lamented death, the 
 Princess Mary, as she was commonly called by the older 
 inhabitants of Richmond and Kew, who had been accustomed 
 to see her among them from her childhood onwards, directed 
 all the numerous charitable and philanthropic movements with 
 which she was connected Here she died, and from here her 
 body was borne to Windsor for interment in the royal vaults. 
 But the greatest event in the history of the White Lodge 
 took place on June 23rd, 1894, when Prince Edward of York 
 was born whilst the Duchess of York was staying there on a 
 visit to her mother. 
 
 As Dr. Garnett remarks, in former times the Prince 
 would have been known, from the place of his birth, as Edward 
 of Richmond, in the same way that the fifth Henry was Harry 
 of Monmouth. 
 
 The Park owes its existence to Charles L Prior to 
 about 1634 it was an extensive tract, partly waste, known as 
 Shene Chase. Charles, who seems to have cared little for 
 Richmond as a residence, showed an extraordinary tenacity 
 of purpose in carrying out his design, once he had entered 
 upon it, of enclosing this tract as a royal hunting ground. 
 He surrounded it with a wall, and it appears, from petitions 
 which still exist, that the rights of private owners were some- 
 
 42
 
 PLATE X. 
 
 THE WHITE LODGE 
 
 RICHMOND
 
 .X M17.,1M 
 liH// -IH I 
 
 cmoi/iH'jia
 
 -^ .^>T*<^5fe«S»*~-*^-^ ^ 
 
 3j^i,:^s;s^sjtr
 
 what unceremoniously overridden by the king in his determi- 
 nation to form the park. Compensation was made, but it 
 seems to have been in some cases very inadequate. 
 
 The Park was presented to the City of London by Par- 
 liament at the culmination of the great rebellion, and restored 
 to Charles II. upon his becoming king de facto as well as 
 de J2i7'e. 
 
 Wild turkeys were kept in the Park in George II.'s time, 
 but eventually destroyed because they attracted poachers, and 
 so caused deadly affrays with the keepers. 
 
 The deer are still a delightful feature of the Park, familiar 
 to all visitors. 
 
 A heronry, too, still exists, probably the nearest to 
 London, and the birds can occasionally be observed flying 
 across the town, probably to Kew Gardens. 
 
 « 
 
 43 G— 2
 
 GEORGE ELIOT'S HOUSE AT RICHMOND 
 
 P 
 
 ARKSHOT runs from the corner of the Httle screen 
 to the Kew Foot Road. 
 
 Probably the first intruder on its old seclusion and 
 repose was the South Western Railway, which has its "old" 
 station close at hand. 
 
 The row of stiff but stately eighteenth century dwellings 
 has been rudely interfered with by the cutting away of the 
 lower storey of one of the houses to afford ingress to a place of 
 worship ; and, later, by the erection of the Public Baths, which 
 have a frontage not in harmony with the earlier buildings. 
 
 To No. 8, Parkshot, in September, 1855, came George 
 Eliot and George Lewes to reside. 
 
 Already become a considerable personage in literary 
 circles by her work as translator, and her connection with 
 an influential review, it was not till she made Richmond her 
 home that George Eliot entered upon the work by which her 
 name has become familiar the world over — the work of the 
 novelist, 
 
 " She and her husband," writes Mr. Fred. Turner in the 
 Home Counties Magazine, " had frequently discussed her 
 qualifications for such an undertaking ; she had a wonderful 
 power for descriptive writing, and she had wit ; but her 
 husband was scarcely convinced of her ability to give expres- 
 sion to the deeper feelings of human nature, or to present her 
 matter in dramatic form. However, an attempt was made, 
 and on the occasion of a stroll in Richmond Park she an- 
 nounced to Lewes that she had actually written part of a 
 story, to be called : " The Sad Fortunes of the Rev. Amos 
 Barton." When they returned to their apartments she pro- 
 
 45
 
 duced the manuscript, and read over the story, as far as it 
 was written, to the intense satisfaction of her husband, " We 
 both cried over it," she relates, " and then he came up to me 
 and kissed me, saying, ' I think your pathos is better than 
 your fun.' " The story was completed and appeared in Black- 
 luood's Jllagazhie, for January, 1857, and ultimately became 
 the initial tale of the series known as Scenes fy-oni CleHcal 
 Life. 
 
 The novi dc guerre was so carefully maintained that even 
 her publisher, Mr. John Blackwood, was ignorant of her real 
 name or sex till introduced to her at her Parkshot home. 
 
 George Eliot's journal, October 22, 1857, records the 
 commencement of Adam B<-'dc, which, with the exception of 
 part of volume ii., was written here. 
 
 In one of her letters she remarks : " We enjoy our new 
 lodgings very much ; everything is the pink of order and 
 cleanliness." So the great novelist was more in touch with 
 the domestic methods of her own " Aunt Pullet," than with 
 those of " Mrs. Jellyby," as described by Dickens. 
 
 Her journals contain frequent allusions to Richmond 
 Hill and Park, and the varying aspects of their scenery. 
 
 George Eliot left Richmond in February, 1859. 
 
 There is a touch of irony about the thought that Lewes, 
 a man of considerable scientific attainments, was himself also 
 a writer of novels long since forgotten. 
 
 At No. 7, Parkshot resided the Right Hon. C. P. Villiers, 
 a notable Parliamentary figure in his day. 
 
 Since Mr. Way's drawing was mc^de Nos. 7, 8, and 9, 
 Parkshot have been demolished, 
 
 46
 
 PLATE XI. 
 
 GEORGE ELIOT'S HOUSE 
 
 PARKSHOT RICHMOND
 
 TWICKENHAM 
 
 TWICKENHAM is not mentioned in the Doomsday 
 Book; it was undoubtedly included in Isleworth. In 
 a record dated 1301, Twyckenham is mentioned as 
 a hamlet appendant to the manor of Isleworth. 
 
 Various grants of land in Twickenham for religious pur- 
 poses, by Saxon kings, are recorded. 
 
 The name has been spelled in innumerable ways ; but 
 the pronunciation Twittanham (or Twitnam), which even 
 now survives amongst the older inhabitants, seems to have 
 been the most generally received. The town is mentioned 
 in the Cartulary of Christ Church, Canterbury, now in the 
 Bodleian Library at Oxford, as Twittanham. 
 
 The most notable feature of the district, apart from its 
 historical associations, is its wooded character ; and amongst 
 its trees, it is specially remarkable for the great number of 
 weeping willows, Lombardy poplars, and cedars of Lebanon 
 which it contains. 
 
 The outskirts of London generally are famous for theif 
 cedars, which are said to rival in perfection those on Mount 
 Lebanon itself; but in no part of the environs of the metro- 
 polis are finer cedars to be met with than at Twickenham. 
 The tree was first planted in England about Charles II.'s 
 time. 
 
 The weeping willows, it is stated, were introduced by 
 a Mr. Vernon, a Turkey merchant at Aleppo, who resided 
 at Twickenham Park in the eighteenth century, and who 
 imported a graft of willow which became the original of all 
 the weeping willows in our gardens. Another story is, that 
 Pope carried off from Marble Hill, where a present from 
 
 4;
 
 Spain had come for Lady Suffolk, a few pieces of stick 
 which he noticed while the present was being unpacked, and 
 planting them, succeeded in making one grow, whence the 
 others were all derived. 
 
 Of the origin of the Lombardy poplars, Miss Hawkins 
 relates, in her anecdotes, that the Earl of Rochford told her 
 father that he brought the first sapling from Turin, tied to 
 the pole of his carriage. She admired a single poplar, but 
 says "it is no subject of merriment to have fifteen of them 
 planted between one's windows and a south-western view of 
 one of the finest curves on the Thames." 
 
 The information available about the various subjects 
 selected by Mr. Way for his drawings has been printed 
 separately under the titles of the drawings. Here are 
 appended sketches of notable houses and their occupants not 
 so dealt with. Of these, the place with the greatest title to 
 fame is 
 
 Twickenham Park. Only a modern residence of no 
 particular interest now stands here, and a great portion of the 
 original grounds has been covered with large suburban villas. 
 
 Somewhere in its borders stood, from 1414 to 143 1, the 
 Augustinian monastery of St. Saviour and St. Bridget of 
 Syon, founded by Henry V., the only religious house in 
 England which followed the rule of St. Bridget. It was 
 removed, in 143 1, to the site where now stands Syon House, 
 Isleworth, and continued there till the suppression of the 
 monasteries in 1539. In the parish chest of Twickenham are 
 two deeds : one with a richly illuminated initial letter, and 
 the conventual seal attached, referring to grants by and to 
 the monastery. 
 
 There was a lease of Twickenham Park in the Bacon 
 family as early as 1574, and in 1595 a further lease for 
 twenty-one years was granted to Francis Bacon, Esq., and 
 John Hibberd. 
 
 Francis Bacon retired here in 1592, from Gray's Inn, 
 upon an outbreak of "a pestilential distemper" in London, 
 
 48
 
 and Queen Elizabeth visited him here in the fall of the year. 
 It became Sir Francis Bacon's in fee simple in 1596, but he 
 afterwards sold it. 
 
 After a sojourn of a few months here he writes to his 
 brother, on October i6th, 1594: "One day draweth on 
 another, and I am well pleased in my being here, for methinks 
 solitariness collecteth the mind, as shutting the eyes doth the 
 sight." It was probably here that he penned some of his 
 famous Essays — that on Gardening, " the purest of human 
 pleasures," for instance — and the Novmn Organon, the pro- 
 duct of thirty years of his life, was probably projected or 
 commenced here. 
 
 Essex frequently visited him at Twickenham, and no 
 doubt Queen Elizabeth also. 
 
 Among the MSS. in the British Museum is a paper 
 entitled " Instructions from the Lord Chancellor Bacon to his 
 servant Thomas Bushell." In it he says : " Let Twitnam 
 Park, which I sold in my younger days, be purchased, if 
 possible, for a residence for such deserving persons to study 
 in, since I experimentally found the situation of that place much 
 convenient for the trial of my philosophical conclusions." 
 
 Mr. Cobbett mentions (1872) that Mr. Swanston, a 
 former owner of Holly Lodge, Twickenham, " possesses a 
 very curious Twickenham relic, a fork and spoon which be- 
 longed to Sir Francis Bacon. It is composed of gold, silver, 
 and glass, and is so contrived that to the fork may be attached 
 a bowl by which is formed an elegant and useful spoon. The 
 bowl is of silver, and is fastened to the two silver prongs of 
 the fork by four silver loops, through which they pass. The 
 handle of the fork is of glass set in silver, which is joined to 
 the fork by an ornament of gold, and at the top, modelled in 
 gold, is Sir Francis Bacon's crest, a boar. The length of the 
 fork, inclusive of the crest, is five inches, and the circumference 
 of the bowl seven inches. The entire weight is 594 grains, 
 or I oz, 4 dwts. 18 grains. The Illustrated London News of 
 January 22nd, 1848, contained an engraving of it." 
 
 49 H
 
 Vinckenboom's painting, now in the Fitzwilliam Museum 
 at Cambridge, shows the prospect from Twickenham Park, 
 with the view of Richmond Palace, at a period not long sub- 
 sequent to Bacon's departure. There are boats, swans, horses 
 drinking, a ferry boat plying, and a morris dance in progress, 
 making of the stiff, hard painting an interesting memorial of 
 the period. 
 
 A later resident was Lucy, Countess of Bedford, cele- 
 brated by John Donne's verses. Donne always calls the 
 place " Twicknam Garden." 
 
 Subsequent occupants were Lady Essex, Sir William 
 Harrington, the Countess of Home, Sir Thomas Nott, Henry 
 Murray, Esq., John Lord Berkeley of Stratton (John Evelyn 
 visited the place during Lord Berkeley's absence in Holland, 
 to look after his interests) the Earl of Cardigan, the Earl of 
 Albemarle, Thomas Vernon, Esq. (formerly secretary to the 
 Duke of Monmouth), the Earl of Mountrath, the Duchess of 
 Montrose, the Duchess of Newcastle (who told Sir John 
 Hawkins, when he expressed regret that she was no longer 
 at Twickenham, " I was sorry to leave it, but indeed. Sir 
 John, I inhabited the old house till the boards of the floor 
 played under my feet like the keys of a harpsichord "), Lord 
 Frederick Cavendish, and Sir William Abdy. 
 
 The old house was demolished about 1817. 
 
 A part of the park was sold subsequently to the Earl of 
 Cassillis, and from his villa here, " St. Margaret's," the district 
 now so called derives its name. 
 
 The house of the Earl of Cassillis, afterwards Marquis of 
 Ailsa, was taken down by Lord Kilmorey when he lived in 
 the house which is now the Naval School. The popular 
 author Madam Sarah Grand describes this school in her 
 novel, "The Beth Book." 
 
 Cambridge House, close to Richmond Bridge, is named 
 after its most celebrated occupant, Richard Owen Cambridge, 
 whose mock heroic poem, The Scribleriad, was once widely 
 
 50
 
 known. It was on his way here, in Sir Joshua Reynolds' 
 carriage, to dine with Mr. Cambridge, that "the great lexico- 
 grapher, the stately moralist, the masterly critick," startled 
 his friend Boswell by speaking of himself " as a fellow, a 
 good-humoured fellow," "as if he had been Sam Johnson, a 
 mere pleasant companion." 
 
 Marble Hill. George II. gave Henrietta Howard, 
 afterwards Countess of Suffolk, ten or twelve thousand pounds 
 towards the erection of this house. The staircase is of finely 
 carved mahogany, and some of the floors are of the same 
 wood. The gardens were laid out by Pope, and the cellar 
 stocked by Swift. 
 
 Gay probably had a home here, as well as with the Duke 
 of Queensberry at Richmond, two rooms in the house being 
 known as Gay's. 
 
 Lady Suffolk was a daughter of Sir Henry Hobart, and 
 granddaughter of the first Earl of Buckinghamshire. In her 
 circle moved the chief wits and authors of the day. 
 
 After her death, in 1 760, it was occupied by the Earl of 
 Buckinghamshire. On his decease, it became the property 
 of Miss Hotham, who let it to Mrs. Fitzherbert, who had 
 been privately married to George IV., then Prince of Wales. 
 
 Lady Bath and Lord and Lady Howe were later tenants, 
 and some years after it was the residence of the Marquis 
 Wellesley, Governor General of India, 1797 — 1805, who, 
 during his administration, destroyed the power of Tippoo 
 Sahib, eradicated the French interest in India, added Mysore 
 to the British dominions, subjugated the Mahratta con- 
 federacy, and conquered the whole tract of country between 
 the Jumna and the Ganges. 
 
 Saville House. This was the residence for many years 
 of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, who was persuaded by 
 Pope to settle here in 1720, soon after her return from 
 Turkey. Pope's abject flattery of her was converted into 
 
 51 H— 2
 
 scurrilous abuse by a quarrel of which all the world knows, 
 though everyone seems to give different grounds for the 
 quarrel. Lady Mary said he was jealous of her intimacy 
 with the Duke of Wharton. Her grand-daughter says that 
 Lady Mary received a passionate declaration of love from Pope 
 with a flood of ridicule, and Sir John Hawkins is reported by his 
 daughter to have declared the quarrel originated in the return 
 by one to the other (he could not recall which was borrower 
 and which lender) of a soiled piece of furniture ! Lady 
 Mary's successor was a widowed Lady Saville, whose son, 
 Sir George, is supposed to have been the original of Richard- 
 son's Sir Charles Grandison. She subsequently married Dr. 
 Charles Morton, principal librarian of the British Museum. 
 
 The house is one of the finest in Twickenham, of 
 classical elevation, in red-brick, and has a splendid wrought 
 iron entrance gate. 
 
 Sandycomb Lodge. This house, near the entrance to 
 Twickenham Park, was for some years the residence of J. INL 
 W. Turner. It was, says Walter Thornbury, his biographer, 
 built from his own designs, and originally entitled " Solus 
 Lodge." Here he once entertained some Academicians, in- 
 cluding Mr. Mulready, at tea ; and here he once feasted Mr. 
 Pye, his celebrated engraver, and the great opponent of 
 Academic abuses, with cheese and porter. It was here that 
 he used to protect from birds'-nesting boys the blackbirds 
 who sang and cheered him after his day's work, and in con- 
 sequence the boys christened him " Blackbirdy " ; and it was 
 here, in his rude tangle of a garden, that he grew the water 
 plants which he loved to introduce into his foregrounds. To 
 be near Reynolds' old house at Richmond is said to have 
 been one of his chief reasons for building the house. More 
 probably it arose from his wish to be undisturbed, to study the 
 Thames, and to be near his old schoolboy home at Brentford. 
 
 Chantrey's early days were mostly spent at Twickenham, 
 where the famous sculptor's wife resided with her parents ; 
 
 52
 
 and this vicinity to Turner, combined with their common 
 love of angling, brought them for some years into constant 
 companionship. They used to hire a boat, and after an early 
 lunch of bacon and eggs, would angle out the day. There 
 was formerly let into the wall over the dining-room chimney 
 in Sandycomb Lodge, a piece of sculpture, said to have been 
 a gift from Chantrey to Turner. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Trimmer, in Thornbury's biography, says 
 "There were several models of ships in glass cases, to which 
 Turner had painted a sea and background. They much 
 resembled the large vessels in his sea-pieces. Richmond 
 scenery greatly influenced his style. The Scotch firs, or 
 stone pine, around, are in some of his large classical subjects, 
 and Richmond landscape is decidedly the basis of his " Rise 
 of Carthage." Here he had a long strip of land planted by 
 him so thickly with willows, that his father, who delighted in 
 the garden, complained that it was a mere osier bed." 
 
 He was much annoyed on one occasion to find that 
 some person had introduced a pike into a pond which he had 
 dug in the garden, and into which he himself had put some 
 of the spoils of his rod which he had brought home alive. 
 Turner's father partly earned his maintenance by varnishing 
 his son's pictures and going up daily to open the gallery in 
 Queen Anne Street. Like his son, he was parsimonious, 
 and the expense weighed on his mind, until, as he related 
 with glee, " I found out the inn where the market gardeners 
 baited their horses, I made friends with one on 'em, and 
 now, for a glass of gin a day, he brings me up in his cart on 
 the top of the vegetables." 
 
 Kneller Hall was built in 1709 — 1711 by Sir Godfrey 
 Kneller for his own residence, and called during his lifetime 
 "Whitton House." The hall and staircase were painted by 
 Laguerre. Of Kneller several amusing" anecdotes are con- 
 tained in Mr. Cobbett's Memoj'ials : — 
 
 A soldier being brought before Sir Godfrey, who was 
 
 53
 
 Justice of the Peace, charged with stealing a joint of meat, 
 pleaded that the exposure of the luxury was more than he 
 could resist. Sir Godfrey discharged the soldier and repri- 
 manded the butcher for putting temptation in his way. 
 
 On a question arising between two parishes as to which 
 was answerable for the maintenance of a pauper, Sir Godfrey, 
 without hearing evidence, assigned the pauper to the richer 
 parish. 
 
 On Pope's complimenting him on the superiority of his 
 works to those of nature, and regretting his absence at the 
 Creation, Sir Godfrey, with a glance at the poor mis-shapen 
 poet, replied : " Really, I should have made S07ne things 
 better." 
 
 Kneller Hall, after passing through various hands, was 
 purchased in 1847 by the Committee of the Council of Edu- 
 cation as a training home for schoolmasters of pauper and 
 criminal children, and the house was enlarged and redeco- 
 rated by Mr. George Mair, who arranged the front after the 
 style of Wollaton Hall, Nottinghamshire, a very celebrated 
 piece of renaissance architecture, designed by John of Padua. 
 Passing, in 1857, into the hands of the War Department, it 
 became, and remains, a school of military music. Owing to 
 the various additions, repairs, and redecorations, the house 
 has been almost entirely rebuilt since Kneller's time. 
 
 Strawberry Hill was the residence of many notable 
 people, Colley Cibber among others, before it was purchased, 
 in 1748, by Horace Walpole. It was originally only a small 
 cottage, to which occasional additions had been made. Out 
 of this, Walpole, bit by bit, contrived the pseudo Gothic 
 residence which was the forerunner of the Gothic revival. 
 Amongst the rooms gradually patched on were the hall, 
 the refectory or great parlour, the china room, the little 
 parlour, the blue breakfast room, the green closet, the star 
 chamber, the Holbein room, the gallery, the round drawing 
 room, the tribune, the Beauclerk closet. The gradual growth 
 
 54
 
 of the house became in fact the hobby of Walpole, a man too 
 delicate or too indolent to mix in public affairs, as might have 
 been expected of the son of the great Sir Robert. His taste 
 for the elegant, the curious, the rare, the beautiful, led him to 
 accumulate about him, in the various rooms as he added 
 them, the extraordinary collection which made the house 
 practically a museum. This collection, when it was dis- 
 persed by auction in 1842, took twenty-four days to sell, 
 and realized jC,S3>4^^> ^ figure perhaps less than half what 
 it would have fetched at the present day. 
 
 To attempt to enumerate the more important even of 
 the objects contained in the collection would not be pertinent. 
 Moreover, the catalogue of the collection is as accessible as 
 are Walpole's own Anecdotes of Painting, or his nine volumes 
 of Letters. 
 
 Whilst Walpole lived he was perhaps the most impor- 
 tant man in Twickenham, but his life was uneventful, and 
 a resuvie of it here would be hardly more than a list of 
 names of the most prominent people of his day, with all of 
 whom he was acquainted. 
 
 The house itself, which, were he a man of our own time, 
 would appear to him as bizarre and tawdry as it does to us, 
 was until recently in the occupancy of kinsfolk of its creator. 
 
 At Little Strawberry Hill, Mrs. Catherine Clive re- 
 sided. Horace Walpole was her great friend, and wrote this 
 memorial inscription for an urn : 
 
 Ye smiles and jests still hover round ; 
 This is mirth's consecrated ground : 
 Here lived the laughter-loving dame, 
 A matchless actress, Clive her name. 
 The comic muse with her retir'd, 
 And shed a tear when she expir'd. 
 
 As Kitty Clive, her name still lives in the annals of the 
 English stage. Dr. Johnson said of her: "Clive, sir, is a 
 good thing to sit by : she always understands what you say "; 
 
 55
 
 whilst the lady said of him : " I love to sit next to Dr. John- 
 son ; he always entertains one." The cottage belonged to 
 Horace Walpole, and he bequeathed it to his friends Miss 
 Mary and Miss Agnes Berry, who lived in it for some time. 
 The Life and Correspondence of Miss Berry, edited by Lady 
 Theresa Lewis is full of entertainment and information about 
 the notable people of her circle. 
 
 Pope's Villa. After his father's death, in 171 7, Pope 
 took a long- lease of a house and five acres of grround at 
 Twickenham, and set about the construction of the villa and 
 gardens that became so prominent a centre of literary life in 
 Tw'ickenham. Eleven dwellings were demolished to afford a 
 site for the new house and grounds. The house itself was 
 not greatly altered or added to, and is familiar from old 
 engravings. Walpole describes the house as small and bad, 
 and says "one could not avoid pardoning his [Sir William 
 Stanhope's] hollowing out that fragment of the rock of Par- 
 nassus into habitable chambers." Of the garden, he says, 
 "It was a little bit of ground of five acres, enclosed with 
 three lanes, and seeing nothing. Pope had twisted and 
 twirled and rhymed and harmonized this till it appeared two 
 or three sweet little lawns opening and opening beyond one 
 another, and the whole surrounded with thick impenetrable 
 woods." The famous grotto — a construction which we should 
 doubtless think hideous nowadays — was designed as a sub- 
 terranean way from the house to the upper garden, under 
 a road which lay between. It was after Pope took up his 
 residence here that the publication of the Iliad was com- 
 pleted. He followed it with his version of the Odyssey, the 
 Dimciad, the Essay on Man, the Universal Prayer, and a 
 great number of other poems. 
 
 Swift and Gay were frequently his guests, and Gay is 
 said to have written here his successful Beggars Opera. 
 
 Pope died on the 30th May, 1 744, and was buried in 
 Twickenham Church, borne to the grave by six of the 
 
 56
 
 poorest men in the parish, to each of whom was bequeathed 
 a grey cloth suit of mourninrr. 
 
 His physical defects must have had a great deal to do 
 with the peevishness and capriciousness of his character. He 
 was, apart from his deformity, of pleasing presence and ex- 
 pression ; and although he made enemies, he made also many 
 warm friends. It is notable that, himself a Roman Catholic, 
 the three most intimate of these were — Bishop Atterbury, a 
 High Churchman ; Bishop Warburton, a Low Churchman ; 
 and Lord Bolingbroke, an infidel. 
 
 After Pope's death, the purchaser of the villa, Sir William 
 Stanhope, added wings to it. It eventually passed into the 
 hands of Baroness Howe, and she, desiring a more com- 
 modious residence, razed it to the ground — an action which 
 earned her at the time the style of Queen of the Goths. Her 
 substitute for Pope's Villa was subsequently divided into two 
 houses. The house at present called Popes Villa — a building 
 the architecture of which is quite indescribable — does not 
 occupy the actual site of the historic villa. 
 
 Amongst residents of Twickenham whose houses are 
 not now identifiable were — William Lenthall, Speaker of the 
 Long Parliament ; Robert Boyle, the famous scholar and 
 philosopher ; Lady Macclesfield, mother of the ill-fated poet, 
 Richard Savage ; Edward Stillingfleet, famous for his 
 theological writings ; and Joanna Southcote, " prophetess of 
 Exeter." 
 
 Charles Dickens spent the summer of 1838 at one of 
 the houses known as Ailsa Park Villas, in the St. Margaret's 
 Road. Mr. Cobbett speaks of it as the second house, but does 
 not say from which end he counts. It was probably No. 4. 
 
 Richard Holt Hutton, the famous editor of The Spectator, 
 lived for many years at Cross Deep Lodge. 
 
 A notice of Twickenham would be incomplete without 
 mention of Twickenham Ait, better known as Eel Pie Island, 
 the beautifully wooded islet so well known to all frequenters 
 of the river. 
 
 57 I
 
 THE RIVER FRONT, TWICKENHAM, EAST 
 
 IN this drawing Mr. Way has given the view of the 
 Twickenham river frontage from Orleans House to tlie 
 Church, embracing, besides Orleans House, two other 
 notable mansions, Lebanon House, formerly called " Mount 
 Lebanon," and York House, now the property of the Duke 
 of Orleans ; all three closely associated with the exiled royal 
 family of France. 
 
 Orleans House, the most easterly of the three, derives 
 its name from the residence in it of King Louis Philippe, 
 who rented it from the owner on his arrival in England from 
 New York in 1800, while he was still Duke of Orleans. 
 
 A brick and timber house stood on the site when a 
 Parliamentary survey was taken in 1650. A Mrs. Jane 
 Davies obtained, in 1702, the renewal of a lease originally 
 granted in 1671. 
 
 Jenkyn Lewis, in his Memoirs of Prince William Henry, 
 Duke of Gloucester, says that Queen Anne, then Princess of 
 Denmark, took, in 1694, as change of air was considered 
 necessary for the young Duke, " three houses at Twickenham 
 which belonged to Mrs. Davies, an ancient gentlewoman, my 
 Lord Berkeley's aunt, a very temperate healthy old lady, who 
 was said to live chiefly on herbs without animal food." The 
 Duke brought with him his regiment of boys, which he used 
 to exercise opposite the house, on the " Swan Islet," now 
 become a part of the main land. Dr. Pratt, vicar of the 
 parish, was the Duke's tutor, and he succeeded in teaching 
 him the Lord's Prayer and the Ten Commandments, but 
 failed to induce him to attend the daily prayers of the house- 
 
 59 1—2
 
 hold. The Duke, who reached a greater age than any other 
 member of Queen Anne's large family, died in his twelfth 
 year. 
 
 The old buildings on the site were removed by a sub- 
 sequent tenant, James Johnstone, Secretary of State for 
 Scotland, who erected the present building after the model of 
 country seats in Lombardy, and built the large octagon room 
 at the end of the house especially for the reception of Queen 
 Caroline, wife of George II. 
 
 Secretary Johnstone grew vines here, from which he 
 made several hogsheads of wine a year. 
 
 During the residence here, from 1 800 onwards, of Louis 
 Philippe, E)uke of Orleans, afterwards King of France, his 
 brother, the Duke of Montpensier, died, and was buried in 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 It passed into the hands of Alexander Murray, Esq., of 
 Broughton, in 1827, and on his death into those of Lord 
 Kilmorey, from whom it was purchased by the Due D'Aumale, 
 who gathered together here a fine collection of pictures, books, 
 bijouterie, and rarities in furniture, armour, china, and so forth. 
 
 Mount Leb.\non, or, as it is now called, Lebanon House, 
 e.xplains its name at view. It has in the grounds perhaps the 
 finest group of cedars of Lebanon to be seen near London. 
 It is the central house of the three in the drawing. 
 
 On the site formerly stood a house in which resided 
 Pepys' great friend. Dr. William Fuller. 
 
 It was purchased by the Earl of Strafford in 1701, and 
 on his death became the property of his sister, Lady Anne 
 Conolly, who pulled it down and erected the present house. 
 It then became the property and residence of her daughter 
 Frances, Viscountess Howe. She bequeathed it to Miss 
 Fanny Byng, who, with her sister, Miss Caroline Byng, came 
 to reside in it. These ladies for many years were the centre 
 of the gayest and most fashionable society. 
 
 The next occupant was the Dowager Duchess of North- 
 
 60
 
 PLATE XII. 
 
 THE RIVER FRONT EAST 
 
 TWICKENHAM
 
 .IIX ??T/.!'! 
 , /.HV!JJi'JlV/'l
 
 '-^^
 
 umberland, who lived here until her death in 1866. It was 
 she who gave the estate the name of Mount Lebanon. 
 
 Subsequently it became the residence of the Prince de 
 Joinville, third son of King Louis Philippe of France. 
 
 York House is the most westerly of the three houses, 
 close to the parish church. 
 
 It appears to have been given by the Crown to Edward, 
 Earl of Clarendon, on the public announcement of the mar- 
 riage of his daughter with James II., then Duke of York. 
 Lord Clarendon says that when he attended the king at 
 Hampton Court, he came home every night to his house at 
 Twickenham. 
 
 Queen Anne was born here on February 6, 1665, and 
 she and her sister Mary were nursed here. 
 
 Possibly it was at York House that Ben Jonson visited 
 Lord Clarendon, and, says the writer of a series of articles in 
 Erasers Magazine, i860, " Isaac Walton, not without his 
 fishing-rod, Cotton, May, Carew, Edmund Waller, Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, and Chillingworth probably graced the villa and amused 
 the leisure hours of Clarendon, with whom they are known to 
 have been acquainted." 
 
 Subsequent occupants have been — Count de Strahrem- 
 berg, Envoy Extraordinary from the Court of Vienna ; Arch- 
 bishop Cleaver, of Dublin ; the Hon. Mrs. Damer, Walpole's 
 successor at Strawberry Hill, on surrendering which to Lord 
 Waldegrave, she removed here ; the Duchess Dowager of 
 Roxburgh ; Lord Lonsdale ; the Comte de Paris ; and the 
 present Duke of Orleans. 
 
 61
 
 TWICKENHAM CHURCH 
 
 DEDICATED to St. Mary, this church was of old 
 appropriated to the Abbey of St. Valery, in Picardy, 
 a reHgious house founded by the Prankish King 
 Clothaire, and a vicarage was endowed, of which the abbot 
 and monks became patrons, the right being confirmed to them 
 by Henry III. 
 
 In 1337, during the wars with France, the estates of the 
 alien priories were confiscated by King Edward III., and this 
 sovereign appears to have presented three times to the living 
 of Twickenham. 
 
 Possession was restored to the priory in 1361, but 
 Richard II. sequestrated the estates again, and became 
 patron of the living of Twickenham. 
 
 When William of Wykeham founded Winchester College, 
 he obtained from the king the rectory and parish church, and 
 the advowson of the vicarage, as part of the endowment of 
 his college. They continued the property of the college till 
 Henry VIII.'s time. Then the living, with several others, 
 was transferred by the college to the Crown, in exchange for 
 the lordship and manor of Harmondsworth. Edward IV. 
 bestowed the living of Twickenham upon the Dean and 
 Canons of Windsor, in whose hands the patronage has 
 remained ever since. 
 
 The Tower is the sole remnant of an older edifice, and 
 appears to date from about the fourteenth century. 
 
 Mr. R. S. Cobbett suggests that the church may have 
 been rebuilt under the superintendence of William of Wyke- 
 ham. At that date the general plan of an English parish 
 
 63
 
 church comprised a nave, with or without aisles, a chancel, 
 and a western tower. As far as can be ascertained, no view 
 of the church prior to 1713 exists. The material of which it 
 was built was Kentish rag. 
 
 This older building seems to have been allowed to get 
 into a state of such complete dilapidation that it fell down in 
 the night of April 9th, 1713. 
 
 The erection of the present church was at once com- 
 menced, and was completed in 171 5. Sir Godfrey Kneller 
 was one of the churchwardens at the time, and he may have 
 had a voice in the selection of the architect, John James, 
 who built St. George's, Hanover Square, and St. Luke's, 
 Old Street. 
 
 The classical red-brick building that resulted has a curious 
 effect in close juxtaposition with the Gothic Tower, but it is 
 undeniable that the effect would have been far less harmonious 
 had there been any attempt in 1 715 to reproduce the Gothic 
 body of the church. Each portion, as it is, stands, and stands 
 well, for the period of its erection. 
 
 There are eight bells in the tower, the oldest of which 
 bears the inscription, in raised old English letters, with Lom- 
 bardic capitals : — 
 
 " In multis annis resonet campana Johannis." 
 
 The writer recalls that a bell, said to have been acquired 
 from the Carthusian Priory of Mount Grace, hangs in the 
 parish church of Northallerton. Until 1802 — when, becoming 
 cracked, it was recast — it bore this very same inscription. 
 The legend was probably a stock one with bell founders. 
 
 One learns with some dismay, being unprovided with 
 details of what it consisted in, that the church plate was, with 
 the exception of two pieces, disposed of by Mr. Master, vicar 
 from 1859 to 1865, and replaced by two patens, two chalices, 
 and a flagon " of elegant and convenient shape, and excellent 
 workmanship." 
 
 The two pieces that were spared were a silver alms-dish, 
 
 64
 
 PLATE XIII. 
 
 THE PARISH CHURCH 
 
 TWICKENHAM
 
 .111/ 
 
 irj«jH'j H 
 
 ,; //
 
 Vy-^ 
 


 
 undated, inscribed, " For the Parish of Twitnaham'*; and a 
 paten dated 1674. 
 
 In the baptismal register the most interesting entries 
 are — 
 
 John [afterwards Sir John Suckling, the poet] , son of Mr. John 
 
 Suckling, baptized Feb. 10, 1606. 
 James Shandayes and John Twogood, two Indian Princes, baptized 
 
 by Dr. Prat, Dean of Rochester, June 20, 1721. 
 
 [What were those two Indian Princes doing in Twicken- 
 ham ? and who were the godfathers and godmothers to whom 
 they owed (a grudge for .-*) their astounding names .'' Prince 
 John Twogood reminds one of Prince Leeboo !] 
 
 William, son of Henry Fielding, Esq., baptized Feb. 25, 1747 — 8. 
 
 [The novelist had an old-fashioned wooden house (since 
 demolished) in Back Lane, and here he wrote his most famous 
 work, Tom J ones. ^ 
 
 The venerated John Keble baptised three children in 
 Twickenham Church on August 30, 1835. 
 
 In the marriage register the most notable entry is — 
 
 Francis Chantrey [the eminent sculptor] , married November 23, 
 1809, to Mary Ann Wale. 
 
 But it is of interest also to record that the great Dr. Jowett 
 officiated here, on September 26, 1861, at the marriage of 
 Mr. Robert Burnet Morier with Miss Alice Peel. 
 In the burial register we find : — 
 
 1563. In September " olde father della Heze wasse Buryed " [he 
 
 had probably been a religious] . 
 
 1723. Nov. 7. Sir Godfrey Kneller. 
 
 1733. June II. Mrs. Editha Pope. 
 
 1744. June 5. Alexander Pope. 
 
 1750. April 20. Sir Chaloner Ogle [Admiral of the Fleet] . 
 
 1785. Dec. 14. Mrs. Catherine Clive [Kitty Clive] . 
 
 1786. April 10. Admiral John Biron [grandfather of the poet ; as 
 
 a midshipman he accompanied Anson in his celebrated 
 voyage round the world ; among sailors he was known 
 
 65 K
 
 as " Foul Weather Jack," owing to his singular ill-luck 
 in encountering gales during his voyages] . 
 3788. Feb. 4. Lieut. -General William Tryon, late Governor of 
 New York. 
 
 The monuments, both in the church and in the church- 
 yard, are very numerous. 
 
 The earliest is affixed to the south wall inside the church, 
 near the vestry door, and consists of a stone slab with an 
 inscription in brass, surmounted by the royal arms of England, 
 also in brass. The inscription is as follows : — 
 
 Ibic jacft Ricua ISurton armio'' nup capitali^ maj* lini Eceie ft 9Qne0 CHjc cj' 
 qui obiit jciiiii" Bir Julii 3° Tin" m°cccc°):Iiiii qT aiabs ppicict Be' 
 
 This Richard Burton was chief cook to the king ; hence, 
 the royal arms. With the abbreviated words written in full, 
 the inscription would read : — 
 
 Hie jacet Ricardus Burton armiger nuper capitalis magister domini 
 regis et Agnes uxor ejus qui obiit XXIin° die Julii Anno Domini 
 MCCCCXLIII quorum animabus propiciet deus. 
 
 On a monument to Francis Poulton, Esq., sometime 
 Bencher of Lincoln's Inn, are two most interestino- half-length 
 effigies in terra-cotta, coloured. The inscription concludes : 
 " Erected and composed by Teares, by the Pensive Sonne 
 and Daughter." A rather unusual but beautiful use of the 
 word pensive. 
 
 An imposing tablet to the memory of 
 
 the 'L^- John Berkeley, Baron of Straton, 
 
 records his prowess in the civil wars, during which he re- 
 covered "Excester" from the rebels. Amongst other dig- 
 nities he enjoyed in later life, was that of Lord Lieutenant 
 of Ireland. A rhymed stanza, which concludes the inscrip- 
 tion, speaks of his being "sprung from Danish kings," and — 
 unique thing on a monument surely — what an Irishman 
 might call "a footnote at the side" explains that the ancient 
 name of the Bcrkeleys was Fitz Harding, they descending 
 
 66
 
 from "a young son of ye King of Denmarke," who bore that 
 name. 
 
 A monument was erected by Pope to his parents, with a 
 Latin inscription of eight lines, recording their names, their 
 ages, and the years in which they died, and concluding simply 
 "Filius Fecit." 
 
 Beneath this, after the poet's own death, were added at 
 his own request the lines — 
 
 et Sibi 
 Qui obiit, anno MDCCXLIIII .^tatis LVII 
 
 Pope supplied many inscriptions for monuments, but few 
 simpler than this to his parents ; and one may believe that he 
 wished his own name to be recorded only as he had directed. 
 In furnishing such an inscription for a member of another 
 family, he was probably governed by the public taste of the 
 time, which would have thought over brevity somewhat 
 indecent. His own taste is still more plainly shown in the 
 inscription he placed upon an obelisk erected to the memory 
 of his mother, in his own grounds. For a parallel, one must 
 go back to the time when the language of his inscription was 
 everyday speech of the masters of the world ; and though the 
 inscription be in a sense a plagiarism, its use is evidence that 
 Pope knew it to be perfection as the expression of loss. 
 
 Ah Editha ! 
 
 Matrum Optima ! 
 
 Mulierum amantissima ! 
 
 Vale ! 
 
 Pope's modest record of his own death was destined to 
 almost total eclipse as Pope's monument. For the one 
 generally known as Pope's is the immense one erected by 
 Bishop Warburton, and is thus inscribed : — 
 
 Alexandre Pope 
 
 M.H. 
 
 Gulielmus Episcopus Glocestriensis 
 
 Amicitiae causa Fac. Cur. 
 
 MDCCLXI 
 
 67 K — 2
 
 Poeta Loquitur 
 
 For one who would not be buried 
 in Westminster Abbey 
 
 Heroes and kings ! your distance keep ; 
 In peace let one poor poet sleep ; 
 Who never flatter'd folks like you : 
 Let Horace blush and Virgil too. 
 
 The actual place of Pope's tomb is under the second 
 pew from the east end, on the north side of the middle aisle. 
 
 Amongst the later memorials is a tablet to the memory 
 of William Jones Burdett, Esq., who died in 1840. It was 
 erected by his brother, Sir Francis Burdett, and in its length 
 and in the enumeration of the good qualities of the deceased 
 recalls the eighteenth century inscriptions. But, sincerity 
 here again is attested by the two Latin lines which conclude 
 the inscription — 
 
 ' Nunquam egote, vita frater amabilior, 
 Adspiciam posthac, at certe semper an 
 
 During the restoration of the church in 1859 there was 
 found a singular leaden shell or coffin, said to be that of Sir 
 William Berkeley, brother of the Baron of Straton above 
 mentioned. It was very light and quite empty, and appeared 
 to have been formed by wrapping the corpse in thin sheet 
 lead, which was then battened over the body, and thus 
 assumed its form. It was replaced in the vault to which 
 it belonged in the south-east corner of the church. Ironside 
 records the disinterment of this body, when, in 1786, the 
 interment took place of Admiral John Biron. He says the 
 " shell " showed the form of the features, hands, feet, and 
 even nails, and looked like a figure in armour. 
 
 Sir William was the younger son of Sir Maurice 
 Berkeley, was educated at Merton College, Oxford, and 
 became Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to Charles I. In 
 1646 he went on public business to Virginia, of which pro- 
 vince he was made Governor on the death of Colonel Mat- 
 
 68
 
 thews. Many Royalists, on his invitation, retired thither ; he 
 even hinted it to the king as a safe retreat. Parliament, 
 however, sent out a few ships, which took possession of the 
 province easily, and removed Sir William from the govern- 
 ment, but left him unmolested on his private estate. Upon 
 Charles II.'s restoration, however, he resumed the govern- 
 ment, and remained there till 1676, when he returned to 
 England. He wrote a History of Virginia, and consolidated 
 the laws of the province, adding most of the best himself, and 
 procured their confirmation at the General Assembly, 1661. 
 He wrote also a tragi-comedy called The Lost Lady. His 
 body was first buried in the middle of the chancel, and 
 removed to the vault in 1678, after the interment of his 
 brother, who resided during the latter part of his life at 
 Twickenham Park. 
 
 Outside the church are, amongst others, the monument 
 of Kitty Clive, with an inscription by a Miss Pope (not 
 related to the poet), an actress whom she had befriended ; 
 and the monument of Mary Beach, bearing the words " Alex- 
 ander Pope, whom she nursed in his infancy and constantly 
 attended for thirty-eight years, in gratitude to a faithful old 
 servant, erected this stone." 
 
 Four lines on the tombstone of Mr. John Kent, " citizen 
 and dyer of London, late of this parish," who died in 1780, 
 are worth mention for their quaintness : — 
 
 "As Death patrol'd the western road. 
 Staid in this town a short abode. 
 Inquiring where true merit lay, 
 Stopp'd short and stole this worthy man away." 
 
 Twickenham's most famous vicar was Daniel Waterland, 
 instituted 1730, died 1741. Canon Liddon, in his Bampton 
 Lectures, speaks of the inestimable importance of his work to 
 the Church of England. He was the great antagonist of the 
 Aryan party, which about that time began to disseminate its 
 teaching within the Church. By an odd blunder an apothe- 
 cary, who attended him in his last illness, confused him with 
 
 69
 
 Warburton, and complimented him on his authorship of The 
 Divine Legation of Moses ! 
 
 A charity known as " Vicar's Bread " was formerly called 
 by the name of "A dole of cakes and ale." It was distributed 
 in the church on Easter Day among^st the young people. 
 Being looked upon as a superstitious practice, the Long Par- 
 liament, in 1645, ordered the discontinuance of the observance, 
 and directed the fund to be expended in loaves of bread for 
 the poor. 
 
 It is a matter for extreme regret that the view of 
 Twickenham Church from the river should be obscured, 
 except at one or two points, by an unsightly modern coal- 
 wharf. 
 
 70
 
 MONTPELIER ROW 
 
 ABOUT the year 1720, Captain Gray, who then pos- 
 sessed an estate at Twickenham, built on a part of 
 it a row of about twenty-four houses, called Mont- 
 pelier Row. 
 
 The row runs at right angles to the river on the south 
 side of the Richmond Road, from exactly opposite the site of 
 North End House to South End House at its lower termi- 
 nation, and overlooks the grounds of Marble Hill. 
 
 After Captain Gray's death, the houses in the Row were 
 sold to different people. 
 
 The houses are of the same character as those in Maid 
 of Honour Row, Ormond Road, and Parkshot, Richmond, 
 and Sion Row, Twickenham ; but with a greater diversity as 
 to elevation than appears in any of those places. 
 
 No. 14 belonged to, and was occupied by, the late Mr. 
 Joseph Skelton, the talented line engraver and illustrator of 
 Oxonia Antiqua Restaurata, and Meyrick's Ancient Armour. 
 
 In the middle of the last century, Lady Bridgett Osborne 
 lived in No. 16 — a house which, till his death in 1867, was 
 occupied by Mr. Ephraim Gompertz, and subsequently by his 
 widow, the sister of the brilliant authors of Rejected Addresses, 
 Horace and James Smith. 
 
 The house next to the chapel, on the north side, has 
 often been tenanted by ministers of the chapel. This "Chapel 
 House," or, as it is now called, " Holyrood House," was in the 
 year 1850 the residence of Alfred Tennyson, Poet Laureate. 
 
 The baptismal register of the parish church contains the 
 entry on October 5th, 1852 : 
 
 Hallam, son of Alfred and Emily Sarah Tennyson. 
 71
 
 This, presumably, is the record of the baptism of the present 
 Lord Tennyson, whose name records the tender friendship of 
 his father and Arthur Hallam, son of the historian. 
 
 Tennyson's poem. In Memoriam, the outcome of his 
 grief for the loss of his friend, was published about this 
 date, and it is possible that it was, in part, written at Mont- 
 pelier Row. 
 
 Towards the close of the last century, Governor Bouchier 
 lived in No. 21. 
 
 A former occupant of the last house but one was Mr. 
 Tolfrey, an eminent Oriental scholar, to whom was entrusted 
 the education of two Cingalese princes. 
 
 Montpelier Chapel, "a small neat chapel," erected in 
 1727 for the convenience of the inhabitants of the Row, is an 
 unconsecrated building ; though it appears to have served in 
 a way as a chapel of ease to the parish church. It was, no 
 doubt, much used by members of the royal household during 
 the residence of the Countess of Suffolk at Marble Hill. 
 
 As lately as 1S54 the Rev. William Webster was ad- 
 mitted minister of the chapel, which has now, however, been 
 disused as a place of worship for some length of time. 
 
 Although the list of names has a local interest, its 
 ministers numbered amongst them no man of eminence, and 
 the chapel itself is lacking in the architectural features, or real 
 historical importance, which would make one deplore its 
 secularization. 
 
 In the Richmond Road, immediately opposite Montpelier 
 Row, stood, till within the last year or two, " North End 
 House." 
 
 The most notable occupants of this residence were : 
 Edward Hawke Locker, Secretary to Greenwich Hospital, 
 and a friend of David Wilkie, who spent much of his time 
 here ; and General Ord, whose first wife was a daughter of 
 Mr. Beckford of Fonthill, and his second a daughter of the 
 Duke of Beaufort. 
 
 Mr. Henry George Bohn, the publisher, subsequently 
 
 72
 
 PLAFE XIV. 
 MONTPELIER ROW 
 TWICKENHAM
 
 made it his residence, and here his celebrated art collection 
 had its home. Paintings by many of the great masters, 
 miniatures, enamels, glass, porcelain and pottery ancient and 
 modern, ivory and wood carvings, tapestry, silver plate, 
 jewellery — all found a place. It was a collection that rivalled 
 that of Mr. Ralph Bernal. 
 
 j 
 I
 
 KING STREET, TWICKENHAM 
 
 KING Street has a measure of dignity that is denied to 
 the more picturesque Church Street. This consists 
 probably, to some degree, in a greater uniformity of 
 sky-line, and still more in the greater width of the roadway. 
 
 There is no building of architectural pretensions equal 
 with those of the house which forms the leading feature of 
 Church Street. But until Queen Street, on the north side, is 
 reached, all the buildings have a stateliness and character 
 which help to form a very pleasing and harmonious group. 
 And, from the point of view selected by Mr. Way, the 
 modern buildings beyond Queen Street are hidden by the 
 slight curve in the road. 
 
 There is nothing of importance to record in connection 
 with the George Inn. The street contains two other inns, 
 the King's Head, and the Angel, almost equally picturesque, 
 and equally lacking in historical interest. 
 
 The most important building in the street, from the his- 
 torical point of view, is not seen in Mr. Way's view, nor 
 indeed from the street itself, from which it is secluded by a 
 high wall, broken by two pairs of entrance gates. The house 
 can, however, be seen from the terrace facing the river. It 
 is known as Richmond House, and was, in the latter part of 
 the seventeenth century, the property and residence of Francis 
 Newport, Earl of Bradford, a notable politician in the reigns 
 of Charles II. and James II., and an active promoter of the 
 revolution. 
 
 On his death, in 1708, it passed to his second son. Lord 
 Torrington. From Lady Torrington's executors it was, in 
 
 75 L— 2
 
 1740, purchased by Anthony, Viscount Montague, and from 
 him it passed successively through the hands of Anthony 
 Keck, Esq., Mary, Countess Dowager of Shelburne, the 
 Hon, Thomas Fitzmaurice, John Symmonds, Esq., Mrs. 
 Allanson, the Countess Dowager of Elgin, Lady de Cres- 
 pigny, and Lambert Blair, Esq. 
 
 The old house was demolished, and a new one built on 
 its site in 1816 for Mrs. Lionel Dawson Damer, cousin to the 
 Hon. Mrs. Damer, the sculptress, and the successor of Horace 
 Walpole, at Strawberry Hill. Mrs. Damer was attracted to 
 Twickenham by her desire to live near her intimate friend, 
 Mrs. Moore, a widow who then occupied the house now 
 called " Riverside," and she built the new house somewhat 
 after the pattern of her friend's. 
 
 It was enlarged to its present dimensions in or about the 
 year 1829 for the Duchess Dowager of Roxburgh and her 
 husband, the Hon. John Tollemache. 
 
 Lord Louth and Sir Henry Willock were successive 
 occupants, and Lady Ann Murray rented the house on the 
 death of her husband, A. Murray, Esq., of Broughton. Sir 
 Edward Blakeney followed Lady Ann Murray. 
 
 In a house near by, called in modern times " The Grove," 
 but now demolished, formerly lived Sir Richard Middleton, a 
 descendant of Sir Hugh Myddleton, of New River celebrity ; 
 and after him the clever and disreputable Duke of Wharton, 
 whom Pope describes as " the scorn and wonder of our days," 
 possessing 
 
 " Each gift of nature and of art, 
 And wanting nothing but an honest heart." 
 
 In Pope's time it was the residence of his friend James 
 Craggs, who, dying of small-pox at the age of thirty-five, was 
 buried in Westminster Abbey, where a monument, with an 
 inscription by Pope, was erected to his memory. 
 
 Mr. Craggs' successor as tenant was Mr. Edward Waller, 
 a barrister, and grandson of Edmund Waller the poet. 
 
 76
 
 PLATE XV. 
 
 THE GEORGE INN 
 
 KING STREET TWICKENHAM
 
 \^ ''V'CSt.
 
 The gates by which " The Grove" was approached are 
 said to have been removed to the entrance of Cambridge 
 House in the Richmond Road. Of a long row of cedars 
 which the grounds contained, only one remained when Mr. 
 Cobbett wrote in 1872. 
 
 n
 
 u
 
 CHURCH STREET, TWICKENHAM 
 
 THIS street still retains much of the air of the old country- 
 town street, and, though here and there a front has been 
 modernized, it has nothing in common with the busi- 
 ness thoroughfares, in which the lower storeys seem to be com- 
 posed of plate-glass so expansive as to make one wonder if 
 quite sufficient masonry exists for the support of the upper 
 floors. 
 
 There are in Church Street several houses with weather- 
 boarded fronts, and several of which the fronts, above the 
 ground level, are rough cast. Pleasing mouldings beneath 
 the eaves are almost continuous. 
 
 The " Fox " inn, with its little projecting door-coping and 
 its descent at entrance — for one steps down from the street 
 level — makes one think of sanded parlours and churchwarden 
 pipes. 
 
 At the gateway of the forge and veterinary surgeon's, a 
 handsome wrought-iron bracket, supporting three gilded horse- 
 shoes, projects as a sign. 
 
 But the glory of Church Street is the house of Mr. 
 Rawlings, which by his courtesy Mr. Way and I were 
 enabled to see from cellar to attic. 
 
 I find nothing recorded as to the past history of this 
 house, though it must originally have been a residence of 
 some distinction. The shop has evidently been thrown out 
 over a small forecourt, but many years since. In fact, we 
 were informed that the business of a butcher had been carried 
 on there for 1 20 years. 
 
 The house is of red brick, comprising two storeys and 
 attics, and was probably erected late in the seventeenth 
 
 79
 
 century. The proportions are of the greatest elegance, and 
 the facade is, as it were, framed by two beautiful pilasters, 
 surmounted by a very heavy projecting cornice, above which 
 rise the dormer windows of the attics. The cornice would be 
 so heavy as to be oppressive, in a house of its size, were it 
 not for the careful gradation of the space between it and the 
 upper line of the first-floor windows. In fitting a modern 
 fire-place some vandal builder has run a stuccoed chimney up 
 the face of the east pilaster and across the cornice, but this is 
 the only outward injury the house seems to have suffered by 
 its conversion into a shop. 
 
 Within, the house remains intact, practically as it left its 
 builder's hands. The square entrance hall, with its fine 
 moulding round the grate, whose original blue Dutch tiles 
 still retain their place, is panelled, as is the rest of the house ; 
 and as you move from room to room, and see the entire 
 absence of modern improvements, you feel — if you are human, 
 and fond of old things — a certain envy of the man who lives 
 in so unspoiled a place. A secluded garden behind adds to 
 the old-world character of the place, and the out-buildings, 
 which the occupant uses for slaughter-houses and other trade 
 purposes, surround a courtyard which has almost a farm-like 
 appearance. 
 
 Several narrow passages, lined with cottages, lead from 
 Church Street to the river side, in one of which an old inn, 
 " The Eight Bells," has a quaint sign. 
 
 Just east of Church Street, and nearly opposite the parish 
 church, are the few remains of the old Manor House of 
 Twickenham. They form a small dwelling-house known as 
 " Arragon Towers," the form of the porch and of the eastern 
 side of the house being a reasonable ground for the appellation 
 "Towers," although the "Arragon " is perhaps not so easily 
 justified. 
 
 The manor was annexed by Henry VHI. to the honour 
 of Hampton Court in 1539, and it is supposed to have formed 
 part of the jointure of Queen Catherine Parr, but no con- 
 
 80
 
 PLATE XVI. 
 CHURCH STREET 
 TWICKENHAM
 
 nection with Queen Catherine of Arragon Is traceable. The 
 tradition is, however, in the way of becoming firmly esta- 
 blished, as two modern roads near by are named respectively 
 Katherine Road and Arragon Road. 
 
 The manor was settled by Charles I. on Queen Henrietta 
 Maria as part of her jointure, alienated from her during the 
 rebellion, and restored to her on the return of her son to the 
 throne. 
 
 In 1670 it was settled by Charles II. on his Queen, 
 Catherine of Braranza, for her life. 
 
 A subsequent holder of the manor was Lord Bolingbroke, 
 upon whose attainder, in 1 715, it reverted to the Crown. The 
 Crown finally sold the manor in 1835. 
 
 Amongst the occupants of the Manor House have been 
 William Russel, 1557; Barnard Hampton (Clerk of the 
 Council to King Eclward VI., Queen Mary, and Queen 
 Elizabeth) 1569 ; and Lady Walter, relict of Sir John Walter, 
 Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer, 1635. 
 
 A survey taken in 1650 describes two round rooms in a 
 brick turret, and mentions a fair hall, wainscotted, in which 
 was a screen of excellent workmanship. 
 
 A considerable portion of the house was taken down a 
 few years back, at which time, says Mr. Cobbett, a Tudor 
 mantelpiece was removed. There are two fire-places in the 
 house, with old Dutch tiles in them, at this day. In an 
 apartment which was used as a cellar was a carved door of 
 considerable antiquity, and several vacant niches of an eccle- 
 siastical character. It may possibly have served as a private 
 chapel or oratory for the house. The demolition left a portion 
 of the old house (the building facing the church, now occupied 
 as a draper's shop) isolated from the main structure ; but there 
 are still greater evidences of antiquity in the outer walls of 
 this fragment than in the body of the house, the black diaper 
 being still discernible in the red brick. The preservation of 
 this portion removes any doubt that these two remnants are 
 genuine parts of an important mansion of Tudor date, although 
 
 81 M
 
 the external modifications, effected, according to Mr. Cobbett, 
 about the time of William and Mary, have completely disguised 
 the fact in the case of the portion called Arragon Towers. 
 
 On the top floor of the house, in one of the turret rooms, 
 there is a moveable panel giving access to a secret passage in 
 the thickness of the wall ; probably what is commonly known 
 as a " priest hole." 
 
 In the large garden adjoining was a magnificent walnut 
 tree, which when cut down was sold for about ^80. The 
 royal arms of England were placed either in the hall or over 
 the entrance door. 
 
 As the subject of a drawing, the Manor House had to 
 give place to the greater attractiveness, architecturally, of 
 the butcher's shop in Church Street, and its surroundings. 
 
 82
 
 SIGN ROW 
 
 SI ON Row runs up from the riverside a little west of 
 " The Swan," an inn close to Twickenham Ferry, 
 which has been so called for at least a century. 
 
 The Row has a slight curve, which serves to differentiate 
 it somewhat from the similar rows of early eighteenth-century 
 houses in Parkshot and Ormond Road, Richmond, and in 
 Montpelier Row, Twickenham. Otherwise there is the same 
 uniformity of outline, broken by slight modifications in detail 
 (such as varying pilasters and hoods to the doorways), which 
 seems to have appealed so strongly to the architects of those 
 days, and to be regarded so contemptuously in our own 
 time. 
 
 The name of the Row is, of course, derived from that of 
 the Manor on which it is built, Isleworth Syon ; and on the 
 wall of Sion Cottage, the nearest house to the river, is a 
 gracefully designed stone tablet, bearing the words " Sion 
 Row, 1 72 1." 
 
 There was a " French Refuge " in the Row in 1727 ; a 
 fact worth recording, when it is remembered that the houses 
 in the Row overlook the grounds of York House, which has 
 long been associated with the exiled Royal Family of France. 
 
 At Number 6, Edward Ironside, author of A Histo7y of 
 Twickenham (quarto, with plates, 1797), lived till the year 
 1780, when he moved to a house in King Street, nearly 
 opposite the turning which leads down to Cross Deep. 
 
 The second house from the river, known as Sion House, 
 was the residence of John Sydenham, Esq., a descendant of 
 the celebrated physician from whom the Sydenham Society 
 takes its name, 
 
 83 M — 2
 
 Between him and the wido'.ved Countess of Catherlough, 
 who lived in King Street, a "becoming" friendship existed, 
 according to xhe. Anecdotes of Miss Laetitia Matilda Hawkins. 
 Miss Hawkins goes on to explain how Lady Catherlough 
 was " related to that Lady Luxborough whose name is often 
 associated with that of Shenstone, and was the correspondent 
 of the worthily celebrated Countess of Hertford." It is almost 
 " Cranford " with Miss Jenkyns speaking; and the real and 
 imaginary ladies had this in common, that Dr. Johnson was 
 their ideal. 
 
 After Mr. Sydenham's death, though not immediately 
 after, Miss Hawkins became the occupant of Number 2, in 
 company with her brother Henry (who was named, on account 
 of his considerable attainments, " Harry Classic"), and a com- 
 panion. Miss Mary Mitchell. They formed, says Mr. Cobbett, 
 as grotesque a trio as can well be imagined. Miss Hawkins 
 could well remember Oliver Goldsmith teaching her " to play 
 Jack and Gill by two bits of paper on his fingers," and Dr. 
 Johnson fondling her " in his way," and asking her if she 
 would be his little housekeeper. 
 
 Miss Hawkins published a large number of novels which 
 have passed into oblivion ; but her three volumes of Anecdotes 
 still possess much interest, and afford many pleasing pictures 
 of what Twickenham was during the period which her long 
 life enabled her to remember. Here, for instance, is her 
 vivid description of Horace Walpole : — • 
 
 " His figure was not merely tall, but, more properly, long 
 and slender to excess ; his complexion, and particularly his 
 hands, of a most unhealthy paleness. ... His eyes were 
 remarkably bright and penetrating, very dark and lively ; his 
 voice was not strong, but his tones were extremely pleasant, 
 and, if I may so say, highly gentlemanly. I do not remember 
 his common gait ; he always entered a room in that style of 
 affected delicacy which fashion had made almost natural ; 
 chapeau bras between his hands, as if he wished to compress 
 it under his arm ; knees bent, and feet on tiptoe, as if afraid 
 
 84
 
 PLATE XVII. 
 SION ROW 
 TWICKENHAM
 
 f.-" 
 
 V 
 
 '§ 
 
 *!■! 
 
 
 -1 
 
 
 -rs'?*^^-^, -^ 
 
 -"- ^ '^
 
 of a wet floor! His dress in visiting was most usually in 
 summer, when I most saw him, a lavender suit ; the waistcoat 
 embroidered with a little silver, or of white silk worked in 
 the tambour ; partridge silk stockings, and gold buckles ; 
 ruffles and frill generally lace ! I remember, when a child, 
 thinking him very much undressed if at any time, except in 
 mourning, he wore hemmed cambric. In summer no powder, 
 but his wig combed straight, and showing his very smooth, 
 pale forehead, and queued behind ; in winter powder." 
 
 The old lady's burial is recorded in the parish registers 
 on November 27, 1835, at the age of 77; and her brother's, 
 at the age of 79, on April 24, 1841. 
 
 Their father. Sir John Hawkins, claimed descent from 
 the Elizabethan naval commander, and was an attorney by 
 profession. When presented for knighthood by the Earl of 
 Rochford, then one of the Secretaries of State, he was 
 described as "the best magistrate in the kingdom." 
 
 Sir John was a devoted fisherman, and he will be longest 
 remembered in connection with the edition of The Compleat 
 Angler, which he annotated. 
 
 He was probably, however, far prouder of his History 
 of Mtisic, a work in five quarto volumes, which he undertook 
 at the instance of Horace Walpole. 
 
 He published, too, a Life of Dr. Johnson^ for which he 
 was sharply censured by Boswell. 
 
 "By assiduous attention upon Johnson in his last ill- 
 ness, he obtained," says Boswell, "the office of one of his 
 executors." 
 
 Sir John's intimacy with Johnson was, however, of long 
 standing. He was a member of a club founded by the 
 Doctor, which held its meetings in Ivy Lane, Paternoster 
 Row, and an original member of " The Literary Club." 
 Twickenham House, where he resided, has been pulled down. 
 It contained a circular room with a dome roof, which was 
 Hawkins's concert-room, and in the gardens was a room built 
 for the meetings of his club. There was a fence in the 
 
 85
 
 grounds formed of sword blades, which tradition affirms 
 to have been collected, after the battle, from the field of 
 Culloden. 
 
 Sir John died in 1789, and was buried, on January 28th, 
 in Westminster Abbey. He lies in the north cloister, and, 
 by his own request, only the letters "J. H." mark his 
 gravestone. 
 
 86
 
 KEW 
 
 THE strangeness of the name must immediately provoke 
 enquiry into its origin. 
 
 The spelHng and the pronunciation have both 
 changed with the lapse of years. 
 
 Amongst the privy purse expenses of King Henry VHI. 
 is to be found this entry : — 
 
 1530. May. Paid to the King's watermen for their waiting from 
 York Place to Keyho with sixteen oars, when the King's Grace removed 
 from York Place to Richmond los. 8d. 
 
 In the earliest records the spelling Keyhough is found, 
 and in later years Kaiho and Kayo. 
 
 Dr. Garnett conjectures that the last syllable had an 
 affinity with Hoe ; as, for instance, Plymouth Hoe, denoting 
 a level by the waterside, and that Kay may have been the 
 name of an ancient owner of the place — " King Arthur's 
 Seneschal, if the reader pleases." 
 
 The proximity of Kew to Richmond naturally resulted 
 in its being from an early period a place of residence for 
 court officials. The Earl of Worcester, Lord High Cham- 
 berlain to Henry VIII., had a house here; and in a Latin 
 poem, Leland mentions a villa at Cheva, built by a steward of 
 the Duke of Suffolk, husband of the King's sister, who lived 
 at Suffolk Place, near at hand. 
 
 Sir John Pickering, the Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, 
 resided at Kew in 1595, and Queen Elizabeth dined with 
 him there. In the fashion of the day — a fashion one has 
 heard of though amongst millionaires of our own time — ^the 
 guest was presented with fans and nosegays, which concealed 
 gifts of greater value, in the shape of precious stones ; and 
 
 87
 
 the record states that the Oueeii, " to grace his Lordship the 
 more, of herself took from him a salt, a spoon, and a fork of 
 fair agate." 
 
 Kew cannot be said to have been a royal residence, 
 however, until the time of Frederick, Prince of Wales, who 
 in 1730 took a lease of property in Kew, then in the posses- 
 sion of the Capels, including " The White House," or, as it 
 was afterwards called, Kew House. 
 
 This "White House" had been the property of Richard 
 Bennett, Esq., son of Sir Thomas Bennett, Lord Mayor of 
 London in 1603, and from him descended to the Capels. 
 Lady Capel, wife of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 1692—6, 
 died here in 1721, and was buried in Kew Church. 
 
 The Prince of Wales made many additions and improve- 
 ments to the house, originally "a long building in the Italian 
 style of architecture." His was not a long life, however. His 
 widow continued to reside at Kew, and in 1759 established 
 there a physic-garden (or botanical garden), the forerunner 
 of the present world-famous Royal Gardens of Kew. In 1761 
 Sir William Chambers built for the Princess what was then 
 the largest greenhouse in the country, 1 14 feet long. 
 
 The Earl of Bute, a great favourite with the Princess, 
 was devoted to botany, and seconded all her plans, collecting 
 rare and curious plants from all parts of the globe. The once 
 flat and bare ground was broken up by artificial means, and 
 the introduction of quantities of wood, until, as Sir William 
 Chambers puts it, " what was once a desert is now an Eden." 
 
 The Princess of Wales died in 1772, and her son, King 
 George III., bought the Kew estates, maintaining the bottmi- 
 cal character of the gardens, but appointing Sir Joseph Banks 
 to the place of director instead of Lord Bute. 
 
 King George resided much at Kew throughout his reign, 
 and he and the Queen here followed homely rural pursuits, to 
 enable them to shake off the tedium of court life, whilst the 
 boys and girls of the royal family worked in the gardens and 
 learned to employ themselves in some handicraft or other. 
 
 88
 
 After demolishing Kew House, the present Kew Palace 
 was occupied whilst the new Gothic Castle on the riverside, 
 opposite Brentford, was in course of building. But the new 
 building was never really finished, and never occupied, and in 
 1828 King George IV. had it removed. 
 
 The importance of the botanical gardens was maintained 
 all this time, if occasionally with some listlessness ; but in 1840, 
 principally it is believed through the action of Her Majesty 
 the Queen and the Prince Consort, the gardens were trans- 
 ferred to the Department of Woods and Forests, and so 
 became virtually the property of the public. 
 
 Mr. Samuel Molyneux, a connection of the Capel family, 
 by his provision of a telescope in his house here for Bradley 
 the astronomer, contributed to the scientific fame of Kew ; for 
 here, on a spot now marked by a sundial erected by King 
 William IV., Bradley's discovery of the aberration of light 
 was made. Niepce's experiments in photography, made at 
 Kew in 1827, nearly resulted in his anticipating the dis- 
 covery of Daguerre. 
 
 Of the old houses in Kew, mostly facing the Green, the 
 most interesting is Cambridge Cottage, once the site of Lord 
 Bute's Kew residence, but for many years the home of the 
 late and the present Duke of Cambridge, and their families. 
 
 There is, too, the house now known as The Herbarium, 
 commonly called the King of Hanover's house. Both the 
 Duke of Cumberland, who succeeded to the throne of Hano- 
 ver after the death of King William IV,, and the blind King, 
 his son, resided here. 
 
 Sir Arthur Helps, historian and essayist, lived at Kew 
 Cottage for some time, and some 200 years since Sir Peter 
 Lely had a residence on Kew Green. 
 
 89 N
 
 KEW PALACE 
 
 THE house at present known as Kew Palace served as a 
 royal residence for a comparatively short space of time 
 only, and was more commonly known as " The Dutch 
 House." For this misnomer there seems no adequate expla- 
 nation, as the house, a red brick building, is Jacobean in cha- 
 racter. It is massive, and square, and plain, but the mouldings 
 formed by the courses of the brickwork prevent the facade 
 from being uninteresting. 
 
 It has been suggested that its erection was due to Sir 
 Hugh Portman, whose descendant. Sir John Portman, is said 
 to have sold it, in 1636, to Samuel Fortrey, Esq., from whom 
 again, in 1697, it passed to Sir Richard Levett. 
 
 As there exists over the main doorway, however, an 
 inscription consisting of the initials F. S. C, and the date 
 1631, it seems questionable whether the original proprietor 
 was not one of the Capels, who at one time owned so much 
 of Kew. 
 
 The fact that three different houses have been at one 
 time or other known by the name of Kew Palace, probably 
 makes it difficult to assign to this or that particular building 
 circumstances recorded in connection with them. 
 
 For instance Mr. Chancellor, in his History of Richmond, 
 quotes Miss Burney, who, as reader to Queen Charlotte, 
 passed much of her time at Kew, to the effect that the rooms 
 are " small, dark, and old fashioned, . . . there are stair- 
 cases in every passage, and passages in every closet." 
 
 Now this description surely cannot apply to the house at 
 present known as the Palace ; for if some of the rooms are 
 small when regarded as chambers in a Palace, none of them 
 
 91 N — 2
 
 can be thought dark. On every side of the house are win- 
 dows in plenty, and not small windows. The rooms on the 
 ground and first floors are lofty, and for the most part spacious, 
 and the building is not so lavishly supplied with passages and 
 staircases as to elicit a grumble. The house to which Miss 
 Burney referred was probably the one demolished by King 
 George III., in 1803, to make way for the castellated man- 
 sion of Wyatt's design, which Sir Richard Phillips speaks of 
 as a Bastille. The " Palace " known as The White House, or 
 Kew House, was a winged building, of something the same 
 appearance as the Lodge in the Old Deer Park, and covered 
 a good deal more ground than the four-square house of 163 1. 
 There would be more available room for passages and stair- 
 cases in it, and as its main floors were not lofty, the rooms 
 would be more open to the charge of darkness — probably also 
 of smallness. 
 
 The still existing building was certainly occupied at one 
 time by Frederick, Prince of Wales, for the old brass box 
 locks on the doors of the principal rooms are engraved in 
 each corner with the Prince of Wales' " feathers," and the 
 initials F. P. So here flourished at times the opposition 
 Court, between which and the real Court of his father. King 
 George H., so much bitterness existed. 
 
 Mr. Chancellor says that there is still to be seen on the 
 inside of a cupboard in the Pages' Room a manuscript list of 
 the bells and the rooms they rang from. Also, that an old 
 powdering closet, with its sliding window to admit the coiffure, 
 remains. 
 
 He tells us too that the vastness of the crypts, or vaults, 
 beneath the house suggest their having formed part of an 
 earlier and more massive structure. It seems probable, 
 however, that a building erected in 1631 on a site so marshy 
 and so close to the river would be provided with very pon- 
 derous foundations. 
 
 The house is panelled in oak almost everywhere that 
 panelling could be placed ; but the oak has been so many 
 
 92
 
 PLATE XVril. 
 
 THE OLD PALACE 
 
 KEW
 
 ♦-■•«
 
 times coated with white paint, that the sharpness of all the 
 mouldings has disappeared, and the wood is only discernible 
 here and there where some misadventure has chipped off a 
 piece of the shell-like paint coat, and left the wood bare. 
 The deep seats in the window recesses show the great thick- 
 ness of the walls. 
 
 The rooms to which the public is admitted comprise the 
 following : — 
 
 The ante-room to the Library — a small room on the left 
 of the main entrance. 
 
 The King's Dining Room, on the right — a fine room, 
 with a flagged floor and five windows. The ceiling is of 
 plain plaster, except at the centre, where the hook for the 
 candelabrum still depends. Around this is modelled in low 
 relief an immense conventional rose with open petals, the 
 most beautiful thing of the kind conceivable. A door leads 
 from this room to the King's Breakfast Room behind. Above 
 the fire-place is a needlework portrait of large dimensions, 
 perhaps six feet by five. It is unnamed, but probably repre- 
 sents George III. or his father. 
 
 The Queen's Ante-Chamber and Bed Room are on the first 
 floor. In these rooms are preserved a few pieces of antique 
 furniture, couches, small tables — one with playing cards worked 
 in wool upon it — chairs, fire-screens, a telescopic candle-stand, 
 and so on ; while on the walls are a few curiosities in the way 
 of pictures : some very wooden watercolours of birds, in 
 lacquer frames ; some ingenious costume figures contrived in 
 silk patches ; a group of flowers embroidered on silk, and 
 other quaintnesses. Over the fire-place in the bedroom is a 
 brass plate, bearing this inscription : — 
 
 " This tablet is placed here by command of Her Majesty Queen 
 Victoria in memory of her grandmother, Her Majesty Queen Charlotte, 
 consort of His Majesty King George HI." 
 
 Oueen Charlotte died here on the 17th November, 
 1818^ 
 
 93
 
 The Queen's Boudoir, on ihe same floor, has a handsome 
 plaster ceiling, divided into lozenges by intersecting mouldings, 
 and containing in the centre and in the four angles classical 
 figures in low relief. There is on the wall here an oil painting, 
 a " Triumph of Flora," by S. Ricci, 1659 — 1734. 
 
 The Queen's Drawing Room, in front of the boudoir, has 
 a modelled plaster frieze above the panelling, and the super- 
 structure of the fire-place is supported by marble columns, 
 and inlaid with panels of marble. The hearth is of alternate 
 quarries of black and white marble. 
 
 Almost every room contains several oil paintings of 
 flowers, fruit, birds, and similar subjects, mostly by Campi- 
 doglio, and for the most part of no interest. 
 
 94
 
 KEW CHURCH 
 
 THE parish church, mainly of brick, stands in its tiny 
 churchyard on the Green. Queen Anne presented 
 the site, and gave towards the cost of erection a 
 sum of one hundred pounds. As in the case of many 
 churches built about the same date, the building, out of 
 compliment it is supposed to the reigning sovereign, was 
 dedicated to St. Anne. The chapel, as it was originally 
 called, was completed in 17 14, and was a much smaller 
 edifice than at the present day. 
 
 The royal gallery at the west end was built by King 
 George III., and the church was considerably enlarged in 
 1837 by Sir Jeffry Wyattville. 
 
 In 1883 structural alterations were carried out, com- 
 pletely transforming the appearance of the interior of the 
 church and of the exterior eastward of the nave. 
 
 Where now the chancel commences the altar formerly 
 stood, and over it, in a gallery facing the royal gallery at the 
 west end, was the organ, which tradition reports to have been 
 a favourite instrument of the great composer, George Frede- 
 rick Handel. This organ was presented to the church in 
 1823. 
 
 The later portion of the building consists of an extension 
 of the body of the church eastward, and the line of the roof 
 is there broken by a cupola. Externally the effect is a little 
 incongruous with the village character of the spot, but in- 
 ternally is of the happiest. The building, seen from the 
 west doorway, has a unity of aspect that is often unattained 
 where the work has been executed entirely by one architect, 
 
 95
 
 and the dome and apsidal recess beyond give the church an 
 air of spaciousness and dignity that cannot fail to impress. 
 
 A small mortuary chapel at the eastern end of the building 
 existed prior to the alterations and additions in 1883, and was 
 then removed from its original site and placed beyond the 
 new east wall of the church. 
 
 It was erected to receive the remains of the Duke of 
 Cambridge, youngest son of King George III., and uncle of 
 Her Majesty the Queen. The remains of the Duchess, who 
 survived her husband many years, were subsequently laid to 
 rest there. 
 
 Many interesting memorials are affixed to the walls of 
 the church, including those of the Dowager Lady Capel ; 
 Elizabeth, Countess of Derby, daughter of Thomas, Earl of 
 Ossory ; Sir John Day, F.R.S., Advocate General of Bengal ; 
 Joshua Kirby, F. R.S., (author oi Perspective of Architecture, 
 1 761); Francis Bauer, F.R.S., draughtsman to the Royal 
 Gardens (died 1840) ; Jeremiah Meyer, Painter in Miniature 
 and Enamel to King George III. (1789), with twelve lines 
 of verse by William Hayley, the poet ; and Sir William 
 Hooker, the great botanist. 
 
 The most recent of the memorials is, however, the win- 
 dow of Munich stained glass, placed here to record the death, 
 on October 27th, 1897, of the Princess Mary Adelaide, 
 Duchess of Teck, the most beloved member, because the 
 longest and most intimately known in Kew, of the royal 
 family. At Cambridge Cottage, just across the road, much 
 of her youth was passed, and there are numerous charming 
 stories of her girlhood in Kew contained in the memoir by 
 Mr. Kinloch Cooke. Her Royal Highness was married to 
 the Duke of Teck, in Kew Church, on June 12th, 1866, 
 in the presence of Her Majesty the Queen, the Prince of 
 Wales, and other members of the family The old people 
 in Kew, despite her long married life, never speak of her 
 except as The Princess Mary. 
 
 The description of Sir Richard Phillips' visit to Kew 
 
 96
 
 PLATE XIX. 
 KEW CHURCH
 

 
 Church (see A Morning s Walk from London to Ketv) con- 
 tains so much of interest, that several passages from it are 
 here quoted. 
 
 He says : " Passing St. Anne's Chapel, I found the pew- 
 openers engaged in wiping the pews and washing the aisles. 
 I knew that that child of genius, Gainsborough, the painter, 
 lay interred here ; and desirous of paying my homage to his 
 grave, I inquired for the spot. As is usual in regard to this 
 class of people, they could give me no information ; yet one 
 of them fancied she had heard such a name before. I was 
 therefore obliged to wait while the sexton or clerk was fetched, 
 and in the interim I walked into the chapel. I was, in truth, 
 well repaid for the time it cost me ; for I never saw anything 
 prettier, except Lord Le Despencer's exquisite structure at 
 West Wycombe." 
 
 He then strolls into the vestry, and makes notes of the 
 fees payable at marriages and burials — droll occupation for 
 the pilgrim to the tomb of Gainsborough. Presently the 
 sexton appears, and conducts him to the grave on the south 
 side of the churchyard. The narrative continues thus : — 
 
 " 'Ah ! friend,' said I, ' this is a hallowed spot ; here lies 
 one of Britain's favoured sons, whose genius has assisted in 
 exalting her among the nations of the earth.' ' Perhaps it 
 was so,' said the man ; ' but we know nothing about the 
 people buried, except to keep up their monuments, if the 
 family pay ; and perhaps. Sir, you belong to this family ; if 
 so, I'll tell you how much is due.' ' Yes, truly, friend,' said 
 I, 'I am one of the great family bound to preserve the 
 monument of Gainsborough ; but if you take me for one of 
 his relatives, you are mistaken.' ' Perhaps, Sir, you may be 
 of the family, but were not included in the Will, therefore are 
 not obligated.' I could not now avoid looking with scorn at 
 the fellow ; but as the spot claimed better feelings, I gave him 
 a trifle for his trouble and mildly told him I would not detain 
 him ! " 
 
 Sir Richard, during the moralizings that follow, remarks : 
 
 97 o
 
 " It did not fall in the way of the untaught, on this otherwise 
 polite spot, to know that they have among them the remains 
 
 of THE FIRST PAINTER OF OUR NATIONAL SCHOOL." 
 
 The words engraven on the stone are — 
 
 Thomas Gainsborough, Esq., died Aug. 2, 1788. Also the body of 
 Gainsborough Dupont, Esq., who died Jan. 20, 1797, aged 42 years. 
 Also Mrs. Slargaret Gainsborough, wife of the above Thomas Gains- 
 borough, Esq., who died Dec. 17, 1798, in the 72nd year of her age. 
 
 Close at hand is a monument to the memory of Zoffany, 
 a portrait painter of considerable repute, inscribed thus : 
 
 Sacred to the memory of John Zoffany, R,A., who died Nov. 11, 
 1 8 10, aged 87 years. 
 
 The most notable Vicar of Kew was the Rev. Caleb 
 Colton (18 18 — 1828), whose Lacon was once a universally 
 known work. He was an extremely eccentric individual, and 
 absented himself from his parish continuously, apparently 
 preferring life in a garret lodging overlooking the churchyard 
 of St. Anne's, Soho, to life in his country village. The bishop 
 deprived him of his cure, and he for some time kept a wine 
 cellar beneath a Methodist Chapel in Dean Street, Soho. 
 
 Kew formerly had a watch-house in the " chapple-yard," 
 and a " cage " on the north side of the church, besides a 
 pound and stocks ; so the vagrant, or the incorrigible idler 
 or malefactor, had a poor time of it here. These aids to 
 discipline have, however, long since vanished. 
 
 98
 
 MORTLAKE 
 
 SPELLED in innumerable ways, from Mortlage, Mortlakj 
 Mortelac, Mooreclacke, to the spelling of our own day, 
 no record that can be relied upon as to the origin of the 
 name exists. It has the romantic flavour that carries one back 
 to the days of King Arthur, but what romance clings about 
 the name's bestowal is irrecoverable. 
 
 The manor of Mortlake belonged to the Archbishops of 
 Canterbury, and was an occasional residence of theirs from 
 the days of Anselm — who kept his Whitsuntide at Mortlake in 
 1099, and held an ordination there in King Henry L's reign — 
 to those of Warham, the immediate predecessor of Cranmer, 
 by whom the manor was alienated to King Henry VHI. 
 
 Archbishop Peckham died here in 1292, Archbishop 
 Reynolds in 1327, and Archbishop Mepham in 1333, the 
 last while under excommunication by Pope John XXL 
 
 King Henry VHI. gave the manor to his newly-created 
 Dean and Chapter of Worcester, together with the great 
 tithes of Wimbledon ; the Dean and Chapter undertaking 
 to provide perpetual curates for Wimbledon, Putney, and 
 Mortlake. 
 
 The Manor House stood at the west end of the village, 
 and the archbishops had many royal visitors. King John 
 was there 21st and 22nd March, 1206; Edward H. dated 
 a letter from there 21st June, 13 16; Edward HL resided 
 there in 1352, and at other times; Henry IV., in 1407 and 
 1412 ; and Henry V. on 2nd May, 1417. Henry VII. went 
 hunting in Mortlake Park in 1508. 
 
 The house was standing in 1547, but was pulled down 
 
 99 o — 2
 
 not long afterwards ; though, as Bray says it still existed in 
 1663, it is possible that some parts of it escaped demolition. 
 
 The latest record of the existence of remnants of the 
 Manor House is contained in Sir Richard Phillips's J/(;r;«;/o-'.f 
 Wa/k from London to Kew. He says: "On leaving this 
 manufactory [the pottery], I proceeded about a hundred yards 
 through the main street, and turning a corner on the right 
 beheld the ancient gateway, now bricked up, and the ruined 
 walls of an enclosure, sanctified during five centuries as the 
 residence of thirty-four successors to the see of Canterbury. 
 . . . Penley the gardener told me that his family had occu- 
 pied it since the revolution, and that he remembered every 
 part above fifty years. He took me to a summer house on 
 the wall next the water, the ruins of which were of the archi- 
 tecture of the time of the Plantagenets ; and indeed the entire 
 wall, above half a mile in circuit, was of that age. Of the 
 ancient palace no vestige remained ; and he could guess its 
 precise site only by means of the masses of brickwork which 
 he discovered by digging in certain parts of the garden." 
 Penley showed Sir Richard an arbour of box trees, thirty 
 feet high, planted in a semi-circle, and partly enclosing an 
 oval table of Plymouth marble, massy and well wrought. He 
 also told him that he frequendy, when at his gardening work, 
 unearthed human skeletons. 
 
 One or two old houses remain in Mortlake, but none 
 of them remarkable architecturally, or with great historical 
 associations. 
 
 Edward Colston, the great Bristol philanthropist, resided 
 here in a house standing till about i860 on ground attached 
 to Cromwell House. The names of Cromwell House and 
 Fairfax House (the houses themselves are but modern suc- 
 cessors of the old residences), support the belief that many of 
 the adherents of the Protector resided here. Lord Pack, 
 Lord Robert Tichborne (afterwards convicted as a regicide), 
 and Alderman Sir John Ireton are known to have done so. 
 But the most noted resident in Mortlake was Dr. John Dee, 
 
 100
 
 the astrologer, whose diary (25th August, 1554 — 6th April, 
 1 601), was discovered in the Ashmolean Museum. 
 
 Dr. John Dee was the son of Rowland Dee, Gentleman 
 Sewer to King Henry VIII., was born in 1527, and educated at 
 Cambridge, where, in 1547, he was elected Fellow of Trinity. 
 Edward VI. gave him certain ecclesiastical preferments, but 
 in Queen Mary's reign he was suspected of treason and kept 
 under the supervision of Bishop Bonner. Queen Elizabeth 
 visited him on the i6th March, 1575, at his house at Mort- 
 lake, which was near the waterside a little west of the church, 
 and on the east side of the present Queen's Head Court. 
 The tapestry works were afterwards erected on the site of his 
 laboratory. 
 
 " The Queen came, with her Lords and Privy Council, 
 purposely to see his library, but finding that his wife had 
 only been buried four hours, refused to go into his house, 
 but directed him to fetch his famous glass, or crystal, and 
 show her its properties. Her Majesty being taken down 
 from her horse by the Earl of Leicester, Master of the Horse, 
 at the Church Wall at Mortlake, did see some of the pro- 
 perties of that glass, to her Majesty's great contentment and 
 delight, which glass had occasioned much conversation and 
 given rise to a report that he was a magician." 
 
 In his diary, under date 17th September, 1580, Dr. Dee 
 describes a visit to him of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 " The Queen's Majestie cam from Rychemond in her coach the 
 higher way of Mortlak felde, and whan she cam right against the church 
 she turned down towards my house, and whan she was against my 
 garden in the felde she stode there a good while and than cam ynto the 
 street at the great gate of the felde, where she espyed me at my doore 
 making obeysains to her Majestie. She beckoned her hand for me. I 
 cam to her coach side. She very speedily pulled off her glove and gave 
 me her hand to kiss, and to be short, asked me to resort to her Court 
 and to give her to wete whan I cam ther." 
 
 In February, 1583, the Queen, passing his house, com- 
 manded his company on the road for some way ; and in June 
 of the same year, Sir Philip Sydney and other of the courtiers 
 
 lOI
 
 Weee rowed to see him in a barge covered with the Queen's 
 cloth and attended by the Queen's Trumpeter. 
 
 In 1589, Dr. Dee, having gone to Bohemia, was recalled 
 to England by the Queen. 
 
 Owing to the fears of the populace, which regarded him 
 as a magician, his books, instruments, and property generally 
 were on one occasion nearly all destroyed. 
 
 He died at INIortlake in 1608, aged 81, and is said to 
 have been buried in the chancel ; but no record of his burial 
 exists, nor is there any monument preserved. 
 
 Relics of him are preserved in the British Museum. 
 
 Sir Richard Phillips, in 181 7, visited Dee's house, then 
 a school for o-irls. He noticed that, although much modified, 
 indications of i6th century architecture remained, and one 
 room was "decorated with red and white roses." Viewing 
 the garden, he says : " Down the central path, through iron 
 gates, still standing, Queen Elizabeth used to walk from the 
 Sheen Road." 
 
 Mortlake has been, like Battersea and Chelsea, the seat 
 of a manufacture of pottery,' though of a class very diffe- 
 rent from the delicate products of the two villages nearer 
 London. 
 
 The first pottery for Delft ware was established at Mort- 
 lake by a Mr. William Sanders, between 1742 and 1752, in 
 premises on the north side of High Street, now known as 
 St. Mary's Wharf 
 
 He was succeeded in his business by his son John. 
 
 There were two kilns at the pottery : one for white ware 
 and the other for coarser work. 
 
 About the tenth or fifteenth year of this century, the 
 business was sold to Messrs. Wagstaff & Co., of the Vauxhall 
 Pottery ; and about 1827 the pottery was closed, and all work 
 transferred to Vauxhall. 
 
 It has been stated that the well-known Toby Philpot 
 jugs were first made at Mortlake. 
 
 There is at South Kensington Museum a large punch- 
 
 102
 
 bowl of Delft ware, made at Sanders' Mortlake Pottery about 
 1780. It is enamelled earthenware, blue, with scrolls on a 
 white ground, with figures of birds, masks, medallions, and 
 flowers. It is over 20 inches in diameter, and over a foot 
 high. There are also twelve tiles of Delft ware made at 
 Mortlake, painted in dark blue on a white ground, repre- 
 senting a rocky landscape with ruins and figures, size about 
 19 in. by 14 in. 
 
 Mr. Anderson describes a watch-stand in his own posses- 
 sion, about 5^^ inches high, 3^ inches wide, and i^ inches 
 deep, a white enamelled ground with a scalloped blue-lined 
 edge front and back. On the front is a church with a spire, 
 and a house with three trees. There is a hole for the face 
 of the watch, and underneath is a man with a fishing-rod, a 
 woman and two trees, some water and a fence. The sides 
 are ornamented in the square patterns. Mr. Anderson also 
 describes having seen about a dozen articles — plates, cups, 
 saucers, &c. — very coarsely made, in white, with a number of 
 small red flowers on them. 
 
 The second Mortlake Pottery was started by Joseph 
 Kishere, son of Benjamin Kishere, who in 1759 was one of 
 the leading hands at Sanders's Pottery. He built his kiln on 
 the south side of the High Street. Mr. Anderson has only 
 seen brown ware emanating from Kishere 's Pottery, and Sir 
 Richard Phillips observed, in his Morning's Walk from London 
 to Kew, that the principal articles made were the brown stone 
 jugs commonly called Toby Philpots. He remarked that the 
 groups on the jugs were precisely similar to those on the 
 common pottery of the Romans — hunting scenes, and so 
 forth — and speculated as to the continuity of the designs 
 amongst potters from those times downwards. He appears 
 to have been aggrieved that Kishere preserved " an air of 
 mystery " about the workshops. 
 
 Joseph Kishere had two sons brought up in the pottery, 
 and was succeeded in the business by one of them, William. 
 Mr. Anderson has four jugs and two mugs of the Kishere 
 
 103
 
 Pottery, some stamped at the bottom with " Kishere Mort- 
 lake Pottery, Surrey," and he states that at the Jermyn Street 
 Museum two specimens should be still preserved. 
 
 William Kishere died suddenly in 1843, and the pottery 
 was purchased by a Mr. Abbott, of Richmond, for his nephew, 
 who had learned the business elsewhere. It did not, however, 
 prosper, and it was eventually closed and the site built over. 
 
 At the extreme end of the parish, close to Kew, is an 
 old house known as West Hall. A subsidiary manor to the 
 Manor of Wimbledon (the old Manor of Mortlake) is known 
 as the Manor of East Sheen and West Hall. 
 
 Sir Richard Burton, whose school-days at Richmond are 
 mentioned earlier in this volume, lies buried in the Roman 
 Catholic Cemetery at Mortlake under a marble tomb in the 
 form of an Arab tent, fitting emblem of his nomadic life. 
 
 104
 
 MORTLAKE CHURCH 
 
 IN 1 543 the chapel attached to the Manor House at the 
 west end of the village was pulled down by Henry VHI., 
 who caused a church to be built on the present site of 
 the parish church. Over the window above the doorway in 
 the tower is the inscription 
 
 VIVAT 
 R. H. 8. 
 1543 
 and until 1719, over the east window was this inscription : — 
 
 A. R. 
 H. S. 
 1543 
 probably the initials of churchwardens, or of some officials at 
 the time of the erection. As is the case with most of the 
 churches in this district, nothing remains of the original 
 edifice but the tower, the remainder being an uninteresting 
 barn-like structure of the eighteenth century. 
 
 In the fifth year of Edward VI. the church was robbed 
 of three vestments, two copes, and a pyx of copper gilt. In 
 the seventh year of Edward VI. the King's Commissioners 
 delivered to the churchwardens a chalice of silver gilt and a 
 cope of green damask for the communion, committing to 
 their charge also three bells and a sanctus bell. 
 
 The tower of flint and stone, in chequer work, is square 
 and buttressed at the angles ; the fourth storey was rebuilt 
 in brick about 1799. Three bells were added in 1703, and 
 two more in 1741, making a peal of eight. 
 
 Mortlake was formerly a Peculiar of the Archbishops of 
 Canterbury, and the benefice was a perpetual curacy subordi- 
 
 105 P
 
 nate to Wimbledon, the latter being the mother church. The 
 living is now a vicarage. 
 
 A Church was first built on the north side of the 
 present playground about 1348 (Edward III.), as appears 
 from a record, formerly in the tower, being a license to the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury to give a piece of land to the 
 parson of Wimbledon for a chapel for Mortlake and East 
 Sheen, the inhabitants of which were remote from the mother 
 church. 
 
 The church goods in 1599 appear to have included, from 
 an inventory entered in the vestry book, a silver communion 
 cup and cover, a Bible of the great volume, an old book of 
 Common Prayer, a linen surplice, the paraphrases of Erasmus 
 on the Gospel and Epistles, a silk cloth for the pulpit, a book 
 of Homilies, two long forms in the chancel, a fair satin cushion 
 for the pulpit, an iron to set the hour glass in, an hour glass, 
 a communion table, and cloth of linen. 
 
 Various additional articles are enumerated in 1662, and 
 many of those existing in 1 599 are unmentioned. 
 
 In 1725 the south aisle was rebuilt and a new gallery 
 erected. 
 
 In 1757, and for some years afterwards, the pews were 
 let by auction in the vestry. 
 
 Alterations and repairs, further obscuring the details of 
 the original edifice, were carried out in 1816 — 17, and again 
 in 1840. As late as 1830 some of the square-topped Tudor 
 windows remained. 
 
 A new chancel was built in 1885. 
 
 The font, octagonal in form, is the most ancient ornament 
 of the church. It was the gift of Bouchier, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury from 1454 to i486, in the time of Henry VI., and 
 has his arms and those of the See of Canterbury sculptured 
 upon it amidst rich Gothic tracery. It is the only relic of the 
 old chapel attached to the Manor House. 
 
 In the churchyard are buried many notable persons, 
 including, 
 
 106
 
 PLATE XX. 
 MORTLAKF. CHURCH

 
 Edward Digby, son of Sir Kenelm DIgby (1629). 
 
 John Partridge, astrologer and almanac maker (1715). 
 [He was a shoemaker originally, but by application rose to 
 some eminence, taught himself Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, 
 took his degree of Doctor of Physic at the University of 
 Leyden, and became physician to Charles H., and to William 
 and Mary. A practical joke upon him was played by Swift, 
 who published an account of his death, with circumstantial 
 details. Steele, in the Tatler, described his burial, and Swift 
 wrote an elegy upon him. Partridge took the affair so seriously 
 as to advertise in the papers, "blessed be God, John Partridge 
 is still living and in health, and all are knaves who report 
 otherwise ! "] 
 
 Alderman Barber, Lord Mayor of London in 1733, 
 whom Sir Richard Phillips describes as one of the great 
 benefactors of his country, from his having successfully 
 opposed an excise scheme which threatened English trade. 
 
 In the church are interred Anthony Holt, Comptroller 
 to Queen Elizabeth ; the Honourable Francis Coventry, 
 son of Lord Coventry, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal to 
 Charles L ; Sir John Temple, brother of the celebrated 
 Sir William Temple ; and Sir Philip Francis, one of the 
 many men to whom the authorship of the Letters of Junius 
 has been ascribed. 
 
 A tithe-barn, on the north side of the High Street, was 
 pulled down as recently as 1866. 
 
 The parish stocks were in existence as late as 1842. 
 
 Amongst odd entries in the churchwardens' accounts are 
 
 1634-5. Paid a Minister'sWife that had her Sonne witched to death 1 o 
 
 1639-40. Payd to a poore Scholler/ww Newe England, ... ... i o 
 
 1644-5. P^''^ ^o"" Pitch, Rosin, and Ffranckinsence, burnt in the 
 
 Church 1 6 
 
 107 P — 2
 
 MORTLAKE RIVER FRONT 
 
 THE subject of a famous picture by J. M. W. Turner, the 
 river front is now a place in which it is a difficult matter 
 to select a standpoint from which to draw. There 
 seem to be little else but breweries, of ungainly dimensions 
 and unattractive elevation. Nearly every trace of old time 
 picturesqueness has vanished, and on the opposite side of the 
 river is only the wide bare expanse of the Chiswick osier beds. 
 
 The house in the foreground of Mr. Way's drawing is a 
 spacious old mansion of the Carolian period, but nothing of 
 interest concerning it is recorded in any of the local histories. 
 
 Another old house a little further east, with the name of 
 Leyden House, excites curiosity as to how it came to be so 
 styled. 
 
 A little further on is the famous " Ship," the inn asso- 
 ciated in all minds with the Oxford and Cambridge boat race. 
 But alas, instead of a picturesque old Waterside tavern, it is 
 an extremely commonplace erection, such as might be seen in 
 almost any suburb, riparian or otherwise. 
 
 Still further east, in Queen's Head Court, the far back- 
 ground of Mr. Way's drawing, is the shell of what was 
 formerly the Royal Tapestry works. It is but a ghost of its 
 old self, and appears to have been divided up into several 
 tenement houses. 
 
 A tablet on the wall records the date of its inauguration 
 and of its recent " restoration." The building itself is entirely 
 unattractive, but an account of the enterprise to the carrying 
 out of which its existence is due should be of interest. 
 
 The manufacture of tapestry at Mortlake owed its origin 
 to James I., and his son Charles (I.), Prince of Wales. 
 
 109
 
 The place became celebrated, not only in England but 
 in France and the Low Countries, for the quality of the 
 tapestry produced. 
 
 The celebrated cartoons of Raphael were purchased for 
 this factory, and in a catalogue of King Charles' pictures, 
 edited by Vertue, is this entry : — 
 
 " Item, in a slit-box wooden case, some two cartoons of Raphael 
 Urbinus for hangings to be made by, and the other five are by the King's 
 appointment delivered to Francis Klein at Mortlake, to make hangings 
 
 by." 
 
 James I., in 1619, granted a subsidy of ;^2000 annually 
 to Sir Francis Crane, last Lay Chancellor of the Order of the 
 Garter, to assist him in establishing the factory. 
 
 The factory was at once proceeded with, the building 
 being erected on the east side of Queen's Head Court, or 
 Passage, on the north side of High Street, Mortlake, where 
 formerly stood the laboratory of Dr. Dee. 
 
 In erecting a house for Cleyne, or Klein (the limner, or 
 artist in charge of the works), on the other side of the High 
 Street, Sir Francis appears to have encroached on the old 
 churchyard wall, to the dissatisfaction of a certain Sir John 
 Hayward. Mr. Anderson has a print, dated 1750, showing 
 the limner's house, with a very high-pitched tiled roof It 
 was pulled down in 1794. 
 
 In 1620, fifty skilled workmen were imported from 
 Flanders by King James, to carry out the manual part of the 
 work. The number of Flemish names appearing in the 
 registers about this time is evidence of this unwonted incur- 
 sion of foreigners into the villaoe. 
 
 The limner appears to have signed his designs either 
 F.C. or F. K. On some copies from the cartoons of Raphael 
 appears the inscription F. Clein fee. Anno 1648. 
 
 The mark of the Mortlake tapestry was the shield of 
 St. George, with F.C, Car. Re. Reg., Mortl. 
 
 Writing, about 1622, to the King, Sir Francis represents 
 the impossibility of continuing the works unless he is assisted, 
 
 no
 
 PLATE XXI. 
 
 THE RIVER FRONT 
 
 MOilTLAKE
 
 
 i-#is>"a6Ss!Sa^ig3;*'"
 
 the Prince [Charles] having promised him "to keep the fire 
 goinge." He continues: "The Prince gave me order to go 
 in hande with a riche suite of the months, and to send to 
 Genua for certayne drawings of Raphaell, of Urbin, which 
 were desseignes for tapestries made for Pope Leo the X., and 
 for which there is ^300 to be payed, besides their charge of 
 bringing home." Further on, he says : " I am out already 
 above ^^ 16,000 in the busynes, and never made returns of 
 more than j/^2,500," and goes on to declare he cannot keep 
 the manufacture going for more than a month longer unless 
 the King provides for its continuance. 
 
 Patronage of the products of the factory seems, however, 
 to have increased amongst the nobility ; and Charles, on his 
 accession, conveyed considerable property in Northampton- 
 shire and elsewhere to Sir Francis, together with a joint 
 patent with Frances, Dowager Duchess of Richmond and 
 Lennox, for the exclusive coinage and issue of farthing tokens. 
 
 In 1636 Sir Francis died in Paris after a surgical operation. 
 
 Sir Francis Crane gave £ 500 towards rebuilding St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, and provided for the maintenance of four additional 
 poor Knights at Windsor Castle. 
 
 His portrait, by Vandyck, was engraved by John Simes, 
 1820. Vandyck and Rubens both helped him with designs ; 
 Rubens providing him with six sketches of the story of 
 Achilles, and Vandyck with cartoons of the borders of the 
 Acts of the Apostles. 
 
 Cleyn, the limner, a native of Rostock, in Mecklenburg, 
 besides his work at Mortlake, painted a ceiling at Holland 
 House, Kensington, and some rooms at Somerset House. 
 
 Sir Richard Crane, Sir Francis's brother and heir, sold 
 the works to the King, and various records of disbursements 
 for cartoons, salaries, and repairs, as well as of receipts for 
 sets of hangings sold, still exist. 
 
 The works were maintained by the State during the 
 Interregnum, and in 1661 Sir Sackville Crow persuaded 
 Charles II. to take up the position of patron. 
 
 1 1 1
 
 Verrio (" where sprawl the saints of Verrio and La- 
 guerre ") was employed here as well as at Windsor and 
 Hampton Court. 
 
 In March, 1667, the heirs of Sir Richard Crane were 
 required to deliver up to William Earl of Craven, Williani 
 Ashburnham (cofferer), and Thomas Povey, all the houses, 
 lands, and implements used in the tapestry manufacture at 
 Mordake, and the assignees engaged to work it at their own 
 expense without the Government subsidy. 
 
 But in August of the same year the whole was transferred 
 to Mr. Henry Brouncker, mentioned in Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 About 1670 Lady Harvey appears to have been in 
 possession of the works. 
 
 Amongst the Treasury papers under date 1 1 January, 
 1702 — 3, a report of S. Travers (Surveyor-General to the 
 Lord High Treasurer) states that he had surveyed the 
 Tapestry House at Mortlake. " The buildings appeared to 
 be very old and ruinous, consisting of two piles built of brick, 
 one pointing the way leading from Barnes to Mortlake, and 
 the other extending from that way towards the Thames, 
 wherein were two work houses, one with twelve looms and 
 the other four, over which were garrets and an old chapel. 
 The ground floors were small apartments for labourers in the 
 manufactory, within which was a courtyard and a tenement 
 therein where the master-workman lived, which was standing 
 thereon before the work house was built by King Charles the 
 First." 
 
 In 1703 a patent was issued on the petition of Daniel 
 Harvey, releasing the condition that the buildings should 
 only be used for tapestry works, so after an existence of 
 eighty years they were finally closed. 
 
 The principal subjects executed, of which record remains, 
 were : — 
 
 The Acts of the Aposdes, 5 pieces. 
 
 The History of Vulcan, 4 pieces. 
 
 Story of Achilles, 6 pieces. 
 
 1 12
 
 The Twelve Months, 6 pieces (a set used to be at Lord 
 
 Ilchester's, Redlynch, Somersetshire). 
 Neptune and Cupid Interceding for Mars and Venus. 
 Diana and Callisto. 
 The Four Seasons. 
 Story of St. Paul's. 
 The Naked Boys. 
 St. George and the Dragon. 
 The Miraculous Draught of Fishes, 
 Vulcan and Venus (Riviere). 
 Caesar's Triumph (Mantegna). 
 Pilgrims of Emmaus. 
 Hero and Leander. 
 
 Sir Francis Crane, and Vandyck, at Knole. 
 Sir Francis Crane, half-length, with collar of St. George. 
 The Five Senses. 
 Portraits of King James, King Charles, their Queens, 
 
 and the King of Denmark, with heads of the Royal 
 
 Children in the borders (formerly at Houghton Hall 
 
 the seat of the Earl of Orford). 
 
 113
 
 PETERSHAM 
 
 PETERSHAM is mentioned in Doomsday Book as 
 Patricesham. At the time of the Norman Conquest 
 the manor was the property of the Abbey of St. Peter 
 at Chertsey, and from this circumstance it no doubt derived 
 its name of Peter's Ham, or villaofe. 
 
 In the time of WiUiam the Conqueror the fishery was 
 estimated to produce looo eels and looo lampreys annually. 
 
 Aubrey states that Petersham enjoyed the privilege that 
 no person could be arrested in it, nor any person under arrest 
 brought through it ; which privilege was lost by what Aubrey 
 terms " scandalous neglect." 
 
 By the Chertsey community it was conveyed to King 
 Henry V., and continued for a considerable time in the hands 
 of the Crown. Upon Henry VHI.'s repudiation of Anne 
 of Cleves, and subsequent divorce from her, the manor of 
 Petersham was part of the provision settled on her for her 
 maintenance ; and she surrendered it to Edward VI. some 
 time later. 
 
 By James I. it was leased to George Cole, Esq., who is 
 buried in the parish church. 
 
 In 1610 it was granted to Henry, Prince of Wales, who 
 died two years later. 
 
 In 1 61 7 James I. settled it, together with Richmond, 
 Ham, and Chertsey, on Charles, Prince of Wales. 
 
 In 1637 Charles I. granted a lease of it to William 
 Murray, whom he afterwards created Baron Huntingtower 
 and Earl of Dysart. This William Murray was introduced 
 to the king by his uncle, who had been tutor and secretary to 
 him when Prince of Wales. Murray's eldest daughter, wife 
 
 115 Q— 2
 
 of Sir Lionel Tollemache, succe3cled to the title and estates, 
 and in the family of the Earls of Dysart it has remained ever 
 since. 
 
 A celebrated mansion, known as New Park, formerly 
 existed at Petersham. It was the property of the Earl of 
 Rochester, and a large bird's-eye view of it by Kip shows its 
 extent. The house, unless there is some confusion in the 
 minds of the local historians, appears also to have been called 
 Petersham Lodge. It was destroyed by fire in 1721, and 
 Lysons gives a circumstantial account of the disaster, with 
 dramatic details, copied from a contemporary newspaper. 
 
 " Some few of the pictures, with a small part of the fur- 
 niture, were saved, but the loss his lordship has sustained 
 cannot be computed at less than between 40 and 50,000^, 
 which is yet not the worst, in that the greater part of the loss 
 is irreparable by the burning of his writings, all the fine family 
 pictures, and others, and the library, among which were the 
 books of the Lord Chancellor Clarendon, his lordship's grand- 
 father." 
 
 A new house on the site was erected by William, first 
 Earl of Harrington, after a design by the Earl of Burlington. 
 This passed successively through the hands of Lord Camelford, 
 H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence (afterwards King William IV.), 
 and Sir William Manners, and in 1834 it was sold to the 
 Woods and Forests Department, and pulled down. 
 
 During the Duke of Clarence's occupation a small portion 
 of Richmond Park was added to the grounds by a grant from 
 the king, including the Mount, the site upon which tradition 
 relates that Henry VIII. watched for the signal which should 
 apprise him of the execution of Queen Anne Boleyn. 
 
 The most remarkable person connected with the place 
 was Catherine Hyde, Duchess of Oueensberry, the " Kitty, 
 beautiful and young," of Prior, and the staunch friend and 
 patroness of Gay the poet, who made his home here. 
 
 Of Petersham Common, a part was absorbed by Rich- 
 mond Park, but a part still remains between the Lower Road 
 
 116
 
 and the Terrace, Richmond. It is a beautifully wooded slope, 
 and not at all the sort of place one commonly associates with 
 the word " Common." Here in the months of April, May, 
 and June, the nightingales can be heard singing almost 
 nightly. 
 
 Petersham gave the title of Baron to the Earl, afterwards 
 Duke, of Lauderdale (1674), and subsequently the title of 
 Viscount to the Earls of Harrington. 
 
 117
 
 PETERSHAM CHURCH 
 
 A CHURCH existed here at the time of the Conquest; 
 but the present structure, according to a note in the 
 parish register, quoted by Lysons, dates only from 
 1505. This assignment of date can, however, only apply to 
 the shell of the building, as the windows, &c., are all certainly 
 of a much later period. The structure is of red brick, cruci- 
 form, with a miniature tower. A curious feature of the 
 internal arrangements is, that the transepts form the long 
 arms of the cross ; and the chancel, and the tower which forms 
 the entrance, the shorter arms ; so that there is practically 
 no nave. 
 
 The note in the register, alluded to above, states that 
 the church was built on the north side of the abbey ; but 
 no record of the existence of a conventual establishment at 
 Petersham remains. 
 
 The church formerly belonged to Merton Abbey, and it 
 is dedicated to St. Peter. 
 
 The parish registers begin in 1570, but are very imperfect 
 in the earlier years. 
 
 In 1266, Divine service having been discontinued in the 
 chapel of Petersham, an agreement was made between the 
 Prior of Merton and the inhabitants of the parish for a 
 chaplain to officiate there on Sundays, Wednesdays, and 
 Fridays, on these conditions : — That the Prior and Convent 
 should furnish him annually, out of the Tithes, with a certain 
 portion of grain ; and that the parishioners, for their part, 
 should give him a bushel of rye for every virgate (ten acres) 
 of land in the parish. 
 
 There are monuments in the church to George Cole, 
 
 119
 
 Esq., Recorder in the AugTientation Office, who died in 
 1624 ; and Frances, his wife, who died 1633. Their recum- 
 bent effigies lie under a canopy flanked by Corinthian columns, 
 and beneath is the smaller figure of George Cole's grandson 
 and namesake, who was the son of Gregory Cole. To 
 Thomas Gilbert Esq., 1766; Robert Scott, Esq., of Horsley 
 Hill, 1770; Sir Thomas Jenner, Knt., successively Baron of 
 the Exchequer and Justice of the Court of Common Pleas, 
 1707; Henry Green, 1654; Jane, daughter of James Long, 
 Esq., of Draycott, 1651 ; Colonel William Duckett, 1749; 
 Nathaniel Scott, Esq., 1770; Mary, wife of Sir James Cock- 
 burn, Bart., 1766. Captain George Vancouver, who died in 
 1789, and whose praise of Richmond scenery is quoted in 
 this volume in the note headed Richmond Hill, is buried 
 here. The monument to his memory is thus inscribed : — 
 
 In the Cemetery adjoining this church were interred, in the year 
 1798, the mortal remains of Captain George Vancouver, R.N., whose 
 valuable and enterprising voyage of discovery to the North Pacific Ocean 
 and round the world, during twenty-five years of laborious survey, added 
 greatly to the geographical knowledge of his countrymen. To the memory 
 of that celebrated Navigator this monumental tablet is erected by the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, March, 1841. 
 
 Mary and Agnes Berry, the friends of Pope, referred to 
 under Twickenham, are buried here. Also Theodora Jane 
 Cowper (1821), cousin of the Poet, and the Delia of his poems. 
 In this churchyard also lie the remains of Mortimer Collins, 
 vivacious novelist, charming essayist, and graceful poet. He 
 came from Knowl Hill, his Berkshire residence, on a visit to 
 Richmond, when almost in articulo mortis. 
 
 120
 
 PLATE. XXII. 
 PETERSHAM CHURCH
 
 ■ -OL-J-V -^ "t.VUOvW 
 
 
 ^^ifiM.^*''''^^-^''^^-''-^^?*^
 
 RUTLAND LODGE AND OTHER 
 PETERSHAM HOUSES 
 
 THIS residence, which Mr. Way has selected as a typical 
 Petersham house, stands almost facing the road towards 
 Ham Common. It was once the residence of the Earl 
 of Kerry, and for many years was occupied by the late Mr. 
 J. S. Woodin. A Sir William Manners having been owner of 
 Petersham Lodge, it seems probable that Rutland Lodge was 
 originally erected by some member of the Manners family. 
 Mr. Way was informed that a coat of arms wrought in the 
 ironwork above the gateway is concealed from view by the 
 thick growth of ivy. The writer conjectured that the upper 
 storey had been added after the construction of the original 
 fabric, an opinion which has been confirmed by an architect 
 to whom Mr. Way's drawing was shown, without any clue to 
 the identity of the house being given or any mention of this 
 conjecture made. 
 
 Other fine mansions remaining in Petersham are : — 
 Montrose House, formerly the home of a Duchess of 
 Montrose. 
 
 Sudbrook Park, which represents what was once a dis- 
 tinct hamlet, became the residence of John, Duke of Argyle, 
 the statesman, about 171 7. He appears to have built only 
 a portion of the present mansion at the outset, and to have 
 extended it to something like its present dimensions during a 
 period between 1717 and 1743. His eldest daughter Cathe- 
 rine, who was in 1767 created Baroness Greenwich, inherited 
 Sudbrook, and greatly enlarged and improved it. On her 
 death, in 1794, it passed to her son, the third Duke of Buc- 
 
 121 R
 
 cleuch. Canning resided here, and during the tenancy of 
 the Earl of Durham the Reform Bill of 1832 was drawn up 
 in this house. 
 
 Petersham House, adjoining the church, has a fine pair of 
 gates leading from the garden into the meadow behind, as 
 well as the entrance gates in the village street. The rear 
 view is shown in Mr. Way's drawing of the church. 
 
 Bute House, latterly a school, kept by the late Rev. Mr. 
 Godby, was once the residence of the Dowager Marchioness 
 of Bute, and afterwards of her uncle, Lord Dudley Coutts- 
 Stuart. It was demolished as recently as 1895. 
 
 122
 
 PLATE XXin. 
 RUTLAND LODGE
 
 nl (!'//
 
 %.'■ "'^ 

 
 HAM HOUSE 
 
 HAM House was built by Sir Thomas Vavasour, Knight 
 Marshall of the Household, in the reign of James I. 
 Over the principal entrance are the words Vivat Rex, 
 with the date 1610, and the initials T. M. V. 
 
 The story that the house was built for Henry, Prince of 
 Wales, is discredited, although he may possibly have lived 
 here for a time. 
 
 In 1624 or 1625, the house, with the lands belonging to 
 it, was surrendered to John Ramsay, Earl of Holderness, by 
 whom, or, as Manning says, "more probably his heirs," the 
 place was given or sold to William Murray, whom Charles I. 
 created Baron Huntingtower and Earl of Dysart. It was 
 made over to his wife, who devised it to Sir Lionel Tolle- 
 mache, husband of her eldest daughter. From this lady — 
 Countess of Dysart in her own right, whose second husband 
 was John, Earl of Lauderdale —the property has descended 
 continuously in the same family to the present day. 
 
 The house is surrounded by long avenues of elms, is of 
 red brick, and has two fronts, the principal facing the river. 
 
 A range of leaden busts of Roman emporors, painted 
 stone-colour, occupy oval niches in the brickwork between 
 the basement and the first storey, and also in the side walls 
 leading to the terrace, where large wrought-iron gates and a 
 moat divide the grounds from the adjacent meadow. In the 
 centre of the lawn is a fine statue of Thames in stone. 
 
 Several of the rooms are hung with rich tapestries. The 
 backs of several of the fire-places are decorated with the 
 Stuart arms. 
 
 123 R — 2
 
 Adjoining the entrance hall, which is paved with black 
 and white marble, is a small wainscotted chapel, containing 
 a prayer-book presented by Charles II. to the first Earl of 
 Dysart. The royal arms are embroidered on the cover in 
 gold and silver. 
 
 A large apartment, called the Queen's Audience Cham- 
 ber, hung with tapestry, is also known as the Cabal Chamber. 
 Here were held the secret conferences by the ministry known 
 as the Cabal, from the initials of their names, when John, 
 Earl of Lauderdale, husband of Elizabeth, Countess of Dysart, 
 was master of Ham House. Clifford. Arlington, Buckingham, 
 Ashley, and Lauderdale were the names of the five ministers. 
 The fiooring of the room is of parquet, containing the cypher 
 of the Countess Elizabeth. 
 
 A valuable collection of antique china is stored in the 
 room known as the China Closet; and in the Library, besides 
 many rare and valuable works, precious in a less degree, are 
 no fewer than fourteen Caxtons. 
 
 A large picture-gallery, hung with portraits by Vandyke, 
 Lely, Kneller, Hoppner, Jansen, Zucchero, Constable, and 
 Reynolds, includes portraits of James I., Charles I., and 
 Charles II., and many members of the Dysart family. 
 Amongst the curiosities in the house is a lock of the hair of 
 Elizabeth's Earl of Esse.x, and Rachel, Lady Russell's prayer 
 book. The apartments known as the Duchess of Lauder- 
 dale's have remained in the exact order in which she left 
 them at her death. 
 
 Charles II. is said to have stopped here in his flight from 
 the Parliamentary Army, and a legend is recorded to the 
 effect that the great gates facing the avenue had, until a year 
 or two since, never been unlocked since they shut the king in 
 and his pursuers out. 
 
 Horace Walpole's niece, having married an Earl of 
 Dysart, he visited her here, and describes it as so dreary 
 that you " might think yourself a hundred miles off and a 
 hundred years back." 
 
 124
 
 PLATE XXIV. 
 HAM HOUSE
 
 / II
 
 y-, '"ti^ i^r-^- rK. 
 
 \1 -f^U V /^ 
 
 
 ^»lgir;» 
 
 
 
 •^-:*^mmi-fi. 
 
 7.]lW>^, 
 

 
 John Evelyn, who visited the Duke of Lauderdale here, 
 describes Ham House as "inferior to few of the best villas in 
 
 Italy itself." 
 
 Readers of Dickens will remember that it was at the 
 back of Ham House that the scene of Sir Mulberry Hawk's 
 duel with Lord Frederick Verisopht is laid. 
 
 125
 
 POSTSCRIPT 
 
 THESE notes, compiled to accompany Mr. Way's 
 drawings, are in the main a mosaic, pieced together 
 from the writings of earlier workers in the same field. 
 With a few trivial exceptions the information contained in 
 them is derived from the following sources : — 
 
 Mr. Edwin Beresford Chancellor's History of Richmond. 
 
 The Rev. R. S. Cobbett's Memorials of Twickenham. 
 
 Dr. Garnett's Richmond-on-Thames. 
 
 Mr. Fred Turner's George Eliot at Richmond [Home Counties' Magazine). 
 
 Mr. A. Leonard Summers' Kew : Its Palaces and Associations {Home 
 
 Counties'' Magazine). 
 Mr. A. Leonard Summers' A Vanishing Village {Surrey Magazine). 
 Mr. John Eustace Anderson's History of Mortlahe. 
 Mr. John Eustace Anderson's Pamphlet on the Tapestry Works. 
 Mr. John Eustace Anderson's Pamphlet on Mortlake Potteries. 
 (The last three privately printed.) 
 
 To each and all of these writers I desire to express my 
 indebtedness. I have also consulted — 
 
 Sir Richard Phillips' A Morning's Walk from London to Kew. 
 Miss Laetitia Matilda Hawkins' Anecdotes, Memoirs, S'C. 
 
 and, of course — 
 
 Lysons' Environs of London. 
 
 In the process of selection and compression the necessity 
 of "joining the flats" has occasioned some re-writing; but 
 where no such demand arose, I felt that to paraphrase would 
 be an affectation of original research, for which the writers 
 named have left little room. 
 
 The notes do not pretend to be exhaustive of their 
 subjects. 
 
 126
 
 The arms on the title page are those of Henry VIII., 
 copied from the embroidered cover of a volume which vi^as 
 formerly his property, and which may quite conceivably once 
 have been housed in the Old Palace at Richmond. 
 
 The verses on the title page, as explained in the note on 
 Richmond, are from a poem by Mr. W. E. Henley. 
 
 127
 
 BOOKS BY THOMAS R. WAY 
 
 MR. WHISTLER'S LITHOGRAPHY. The Catalogue 
 compiled by Thomas R. Way. Demy 8vo. 
 
 G. Bell^ Sons, 1896 
 RELIQUES OF OLD LONDON. 410. 
 
 G. Bell (Sr* Sons, 1896 
 LATER RELIQUES OF OLD LONDON. 410. 
 
 G. Bell&' Sons, 1897 
 SUBURBAN RELIQUES NORTH OF THE 
 THAMES. 4to. G. Bell Sr' Sons, i8()B 
 
 THAMES-SIDE AND SOUTH SUBURBAN RE- 
 LIQUES. G. Bell Gr' Sons, 1899 
 
 (The text of the four preceding volumes is by H. B. 
 Wheatley, F.S.A.) 
 
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