w 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
GREATER AMERICA 
 
 THE LATEST ACQUIRED 
 
 INSULAR POSSESSIONS, 
 
 igoo. 
 
 PERRY MASON COMPANY, 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
Copyright 1900, 
 
 By PERRY MASON COMPANY, 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
Yet. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 AMERICAN POSSESSION OF PORTO RICO . 3 
 
 PORTO RICO, PAST AND PRESENT . . . 11 
 
 LIFE IN PORTO RICO 19 
 
 PROGRESS IN PORTO RICO 32 
 
 A FOURTH OF JULY 41 
 
 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE .... 46 
 
 BATTLE OF MANILA BAY 67 
 
 THE FALL OF MANILA 70 
 
 LIFE IN MANILA 85 
 
 PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES .... 98 
 
 AT THE PUMPING-STATION 109 
 
 MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA . . . . .120 
 
 HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION 131 
 
 HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES 141 
 
 POI-MAKING IN HAWAII 148 
 
 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS 156 
 
 TUTUILA AND MANUA 166 
 
 GUAM 173 
 
 THE MIDWAY ISLANDS .181 
 
 WAKE ISLAND 184 
 
 THE GUANO ISLANDS. 187 
 
 M31O575 
 
IN PORTO RICO. 
 
American Possession. 
 
 The first acquaintance that Porto Rico 
 made with the authority of the United 
 States was in May, 1898, when the Ameri- 
 can fleet sailed along the shores of the 
 island in a vain attempt to meet the Span- 
 ish squadron under Admiral Cervera. At 
 that time our navy threw a few shells into 
 the grand old Castle Morro at the entrance 
 of San Juan harbor, like callers leaving 
 cards as an indication of a future visit. 
 
 In July, after the destruction of the 
 Spanish fleet and the surrender of Santiago 
 in Cuba, a portion of the American army 
 under General Miles invaded Porto Rico 
 at Ponce, without any serious resistance. 
 The Spanish forces on the island were so 
 small that they were able to offer opposi- 
 tion only in skirmishes to the advance of 
 the Americans through the country. 
 
 A fortnight after the capture of Ponce, 
 
AMERICAN POSSESSION. 
 
 the President's proclamation of peace put 
 an end to hostilities, and the American 
 army quietly took control of affairs pending 
 the final treaty with Spain. 
 
 There had been for years a strong feel- 
 ing in the United States that the people 
 of Porto Rico, like the 
 Cubans, wished to be free 
 from Spanish rule. This 
 opinion was strengthened 
 by the cordial welcome 
 given to the invading 
 Americans. The Stars 
 and Stripes were raised 
 on many private houses 
 as well as public buildings, and the 
 holders of civic office gracefully yielded 
 to military rule. 
 
 Possibly the beauty of Porto Rico, the 
 productive plantations and peaceful popu- 
 lation, and also a desire to get some little 
 return for the cost of the war may have 
 influenced our government to ask for 
 
 GENERAL MILES. 
 
AMERICAN POSSESSION. 5 
 
 possession of the island. The prevailing 
 belief that Spain would agree to this was 
 confirmed by the Treaty of Paris. 
 
 The United States took formal and com- 
 plete possession of Porto Rico on October 
 1 8, 1898, when the American flag was 
 raised over the palace of the governor- 
 general and other public buildings at San 
 Juan. The ceremony was witnessed by 
 throngs of people, among whom were 
 many of the late officials of the island gov- 
 ernment, the evacuation commissioners and 
 American military and naval officers. 
 
 The event was a noteworthy one in 
 many respects. The acquisition did not 
 have the distinction of being the first our 
 government made by conquest. California 
 was acquired in the same way fifty years 
 ago, but Porto Rico is both the smallest in 
 area of all additions to our national terri- 
 tory, and the largest in the number of 
 people whose allegiance has been trans- 
 ferred from another country to our own. 
 
AMERICAN POSSESSION. 
 
 The change was made without the con- 
 sent of the Porto Ricans, but there is 
 reason to believe it was not against their 
 
 GOVERNMENT BUILDING, SAN JUAN. 
 
 wish. Neither is there any ground for fear 
 that the acquisition of the island will ever 
 lead to foreign complications. The island 
 
AMERICAN POSSESSION. 7 
 
 lies so near the American continent as to 
 be almost a part of it ; and no nation has 
 objected to its annexation to the United 
 States. 
 
 Nevertheless, the annexation raised for 
 solution a new and very important ques- 
 tion, How is this new territory to be 
 governed? The authority given our 
 government is absolute. "The Congress 
 shall have power to dispose of and make all 
 needful rules and regulations respecting 
 the territory or other property belonging 
 to the United States." 
 
 That is the clause of the Constitution 
 under which all our territorial governments 
 are organized. The system used for 
 Oklahoma or any other may be adopted, 
 even to the total denial of self-government, 
 as in the District of Columbia. 
 
 It must not be supposed, however, that 
 the government of eight hundred thousand 
 people, including nearly half a million of 
 mixed Spanish and Indian blood, and three 
 
8 AMERICAN POSSESSION. 
 
 hundred thousand negroes, hardly one of 
 whom can speak the English language, 
 could be accomplished without political 
 complications and civil disturbances. 
 
 Perplexity will probably follow perplex- 
 ity. Only wise, patient, far-seeing states- 
 manship will bring this new element of 
 
 our national life 
 into harmonious 
 relations with our 
 system of govern- 
 ment. 
 
 There is no 
 
 THE WATER-FRONT, PONCE. fi^ pn^le O f 
 
 international law which regulates the rela- 
 tions of the inhabitants of conquered 
 territory to the conquering nation. 
 
 As in the case of most other conse- 
 quences of war, there is a tendency toward 
 greater leniency than was formerly shown. 
 In ruder times, people who lived in con- 
 quered territory were given no choice. 
 They became, in spite of themselves, fully 
 
AMERICAN POSSESSION. 9 
 
 subject to the conquering nation, and were 
 usually treated with great severity. 
 
 Nowadays their status is usually deter- 
 mined in the treaty of peace, although 
 much still depends upon the temper of the 
 conquering nation toward that which is 
 defeated. We have a precedent of our 
 own in this matter in the treaty regulating 
 the relations of the people living in the 
 territory which we acquired from Mexico. 
 
 After the Mexican War we allowed them 
 to remain where they were, with their 
 property undisturbed and fully protected 
 by our laws, and to continue Mexican citi- 
 zens. Their position in that case was the 
 same as that of any other aliens. But if 
 within a year they did not declare their 
 purpose to remain Mexicans, it was as- 
 sumed that they intended to become 
 Americans. 
 
 In the case of Hawaii, this question does 
 not arise, for Hawaii is not ours by con- 
 quest, but by the joint action of the two 
 
10 AMERICAN POSSESSION. 
 
 governments. In the case of Porto Rico, 
 it is probable that the precedent of our 
 arrangement with Mexico will be followed. 
 Such of the Porto Ricans as prefer to 
 remain subjects of Spain are permitted to 
 do so. 
 
 They will not have to sell their property 
 or leave the island, and their rights are 
 protected just as if they were subjects of 
 England or France; but if their definite 
 choice has not been made within a certain 
 time, it will be assumed that they mean to 
 transfer their allegiance. 
 
 It is gratifying to be assured that the 
 great mass of Porto Ricans have already 
 expressed a desire to be American citizens. 
 
 UNITED STATES VKSSEI.S OFF 1'ORTO RICO. 
 
Past and Present. 
 
 When the flag- was raised over San Juan, 
 it overshadowed one house that, if insen- 
 sate things could ever awaken to feel 
 emotion, would surely have groaned and 
 crumbled. That was the White House 
 that Juan Ponce de Leon built and lived 
 in nearly four centuries ago ; but the White 
 House survived the American flag, al- 
 though all that is left of the old conqueror 
 himself is a handful of dust in a leaden 
 casket that rests in the Dominican Church 
 of San Juan. 
 
 Columbus discovered Porto Rico on his 
 second voyage, in 1493. At that time it 
 may have been the religious metropolis of 
 the Antilles. The wonderful Latimer col- 
 lection in the Smithsonian Institution 
 seems to show that the other islanders 
 regularly resorted to it. It would appear, 
 too, that the natives, like the Aztecs of 
 
12 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 Mexico, had a civilization of their own. 
 They numbered perhaps six hundred 
 thousand. 
 
 Ponce de Leon came over in 1508, and 
 promptly began their extermination. He 
 and his followers took everything the 
 
 WHITE HOUSE OF PONCE DE LEON. 
 
 people had, and successive Spanish rulers 
 followed his example. They were disturbed 
 in 1595 by the attack of an English fleet 
 under Sir Francis Drake. 
 
 The Spanish colonies were then far richer 
 in treasure than in our own times. Im- 
 mense booty was looked for by the English, 
 
PAST AND PRESENT. 13 
 
 who had received information that a great 
 galleon or treasure-ship, laden with gold 
 and silver, had taken refuge in the harbor 
 of San Juan. 
 
 Desirous of capturing so rich a prize, the 
 English admiral anchored off the entrance 
 to the port, with the design of carrying the 
 place by a boat attack the next day. 
 
 The rocky headland at the entrance of 
 the harbor was then, as now, crowned by 
 the Morro Castle, which opened fire on the 
 English ships with disastrous effect. One 
 shot entered a port of the flag-ship, and 
 penetrating Drake's cabin, knocked the 
 stool on which he was sitting from under 
 him, and killed two officers who were 
 sitting at the table by his side. 
 
 On this occasion, at least, the Spaniards 
 proved themselves by no means deficient 
 in marksmanship; and in the boat attack 
 on the following day they gave an equally 
 good account of themselves. The Eng- 
 lish assault, although made with the 
 
14 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 characteristic courage and persistence of 
 Anglo-Saxons, was checked and proved 
 ineffective. The treasure which had been 
 conveyed to the Morro was so sturdily 
 
 SAN JUAN HARBOR. 
 
 defended that after three days Drake's 
 fleet withdrew, unsuccessful. 
 
 But although the Spanish have held un- 
 disputed possession for three hundred 
 years, about the only noteworthy thing they 
 did for the island was to lay out the fine 
 military road that runs diagonally across 
 it, from Ponce to San Juan. Fortunately 
 they could not deprive it of the natural 
 
PAST AND PRESENT. 15 
 
 resources that make it the most beautiful, 
 the most healthful and the most productive 
 island of the Antilles. 
 
 Somebody has aptly said that Porto Rico 
 is the only island in the world that is 
 shaped like a brick. It is thirty-five miles 
 wide, ninety-five miles long, and has an 
 area of about thirty- seven hundred square 
 miles, making it five-sevenths as large as 
 the State of Connecticut. 
 
 Of its eight hundred thousand inhabi- 
 tants, three hundred thousand are of African 
 descent, whose ancestors mostly came from 
 Jamaica. There are about two hundred 
 and twenty inhabitants to the square mile, 
 so that the island appears to be the most 
 densely populated rural community in 
 America. When the Spaniards first took 
 possession, it may have been as thickly 
 settled as it is now. 
 
 Along the island, from east to west, 
 runs a mountain range averaging eighteen 
 hundred feet in height. Between the 
 
16 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 hills lie some of the richest lands on the 
 globe, capable of producing astonishing 
 crops four times a year. The country is 
 well watered, yet there are no fever- 
 breeding swamps and marshes as in Cuba. 
 Nature has been so generous to the land 
 that, even in the cities, people have lived 
 unharmed in the midst of filth that any- 
 where else would insure pestilence. 
 
 Every reader has heard of two of these 
 cities, San Juan, the capital, and Ponce, 
 near which the army of occupation landed. 
 San Juan, on the north coast, built on a 
 long, narrow island from which a bridge 
 runs to the mainland, is a walled city, 
 with the portcullis, moat, gates and battle- 
 ments of the fortified towns of old. Thirty 
 thousand persons live there. 
 
 Although the port of San Juan is not an 
 easy place to enter during a stiff " norther," 
 yet the city is said to have the best harbor 
 in the West Indies. Ponce city and district, 
 on the south coast, with forty thousand 
 
PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 17 
 
 inhabitants, claims a still more desirable 
 distinction, that of being the healthiest 
 place in the island. 
 
 Mayaguez, facing the Mona Passage, 
 which separates Porto Rico from Santo 
 Domingo, has a population of nearly 
 twenty thousand; and Aguadilla, Arecibo 
 and Fajardo 
 have each five 
 thousand or 
 more inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 San Juan and 
 Arecibo, fifty 
 miles apart, 
 are connected by rail, and in the whole 
 island there are, completed or building, 
 about three hundred miles of railroad and 
 five hundred miles of telegraph. Street 
 railways of a primitive type are found in 
 several places. The largest three cities 
 have the beginnings of telephone systems, 
 and San Juan is lighted by electricity; 
 
 CALLE DE CANDELABRIA, MAYAGUEZ. 
 
18 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 but the whole island is practically virgin 
 soil for the American promoter. 
 
 Porto Rico has no barns, we are told by 
 an American visitor, and the vision of a 
 barnless region, so far as sentiment is con- 
 cerned, is not welcome. How much the 
 children of that island have lost! No 
 haymow sports; no hidings in fragrant 
 recesses; no leaps into friendly depths of 
 the harvest of the meadows ; no rainy-day 
 delights, shared with swallows darting in 
 and out; no memories of such hours to 
 give their pleasant sadness to later years ! 
 
 American children will regard their con- 
 temporaries in Porto Rico as fair subjects 
 for sympathy. A typical barn, duly stored 
 with hay, with children to illustrate its 
 capacity for giving space and suggestion 
 for fun, would be an importation which 
 boys and girls of the island would appre- 
 ciate, especially in the rainy season. 
 
Life in Porto Rico. 
 
 When the American fleet of transports 
 steamed into Guanica Bay, Porto Rico, on 
 July 25, 1898, I think the thing that most 
 impressed us all was the wondrous beauty 
 of the island we had come to conquer. 
 
 Close to the shore before us lay a quaint 
 little huddle of white-walled, red-roofed 
 houses, still and deserted in the morning 
 sunshine ; while but a little farther inland, 
 to the north, east and west, rose terrace 
 after terrace of verdure-clad hills, stretching 
 away in darkening emerald to meet the 
 wide blue sky at the notched horizon. 
 
 During the months that followed we 
 became accustomed to the picturesque 
 appearance of the towns along our line 
 of march, or in which we were quartered, 
 but the hills and valleys, decked eternally 
 in living green, never lost their power of 
 enchantment to the northern men. 
 
20 
 
 LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 For a considerable period after my arrival 
 in Porto Rico I was kept sufficiently busy 
 attending to my army duties, but after hos- 
 tilities had ceased, and the people had 
 settled back into the even tenor of more 
 peaceful days, I found much to interest me 
 
 in a close observa- 
 tion of their most 
 prominent char- 
 acteristics. 
 
 The inhabitants 
 of this island num- 
 ber nearly a mil- 
 lion, and of these 
 about two-thirds 
 are white. The 
 remainder are every conceivable shade of 
 brown, yellow and black. Those of the 
 people who boast a pure Spanish descent 
 are not in large proportion, and form a 
 separate class of extremely aristocratic ten- 
 dencies. They are well educated, chival- 
 rous and proud ; distinguished for a love 
 
 A MILITARY PRISON. 
 
LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 21 
 
 of good music, happy domestic relation- 
 ships, bountiful hospitality, and devotion to 
 the mother country. 
 
 Like all other dwellers in the warmer 
 latitudes, the Porto Ricans are bitterly 
 opposed to any work that is not absolutely 
 necessary, and in a corresponding degree 
 are constantly in pursuit of pleasure. 
 
 Yet, either because they are easily 
 entertained, or because of their chronic 
 lack of energy, the popular amusements 
 are exceedingly few and rather monoto- 
 nous in essentials. 
 
 No town is so poor that it does not sup- 
 port a band of musicians, and concerts 
 are given twice a week in every principal 
 plaza throughout the island. Everybody 
 goes to these concerts, rich and poor alike, 
 to promenade back and forth for two joyous 
 hours, clad in their best. 
 
 In the houses one will always find a 
 guitar, and, as a rule^the natives are sweet 
 singers. The standard of their music is 
 
22 LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 surprisingly high, and their undoubted 
 passion for it is a hopeful sign. 
 
 Sunday is kept wholly as a gay holiday. 
 The churches are well filled at the earlier 
 services, but in the afternoon every one is 
 off to see a cocking-main, or a bull-fight, 
 or perhaps to hold a merry picnic in some 
 favorite grove of palms. 
 
 When night has fallen, there are count- 
 less formal receptions, dinners and balls; 
 
 these last are very 
 exclusive and never 
 public. The thea- 
 tres likewise thrive 
 best on Sunday, 
 but the drama in 
 APLAZA - Porto Rico is in a 
 
 condition that needs decided improvement. 
 The only bull-fight which I personally 
 witnessed took place in a natural amphi- 
 theatre of great scenic beauty, near the 
 romantic town of Aguadilla. The arena 
 was defined by stone walls about five feet 
 
LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 23 
 
 in height, and the adjacent hillsides were 
 utilized in seating the thousand spectators. 
 There were but few women present, and 
 these were of the lowest class. 
 
 When the bull was led forth, he proved 
 to be a very sorry-looking animal, and 
 disdainfully refused to be worried into 
 anything resembling irritation, although 
 prodded with lances and peppered with 
 darts for almost an hour. At last, in 
 response to repeated calls from the on- 
 lookers, the band played a heraldic flourish 
 and the matador strode majestically into 
 the arena. At sight of this gentleman and 
 his glittering sword, the bull uttered what 
 sounded like a groan of disgust and lay 
 down in despair. 
 
 Apparently nothing could induce him to 
 get up again, and so, finally, the master of 
 ceremonies announced that the slaughter 
 would be postponed, as the intended victim 
 was too inconsiderate for proper sport. 
 The gazing crowd seemed to take this 
 
24 
 
 LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 ending in good part, and slowly dispersed, 
 chatting and laughing in excellent humor. 
 From a business point of view, Porto 
 Rico presents a puzzling aspect. The 
 island is wonderfully fertile in some re- 
 spects, yielding coffee, sugar, tobacco, 
 vanilla, cacao and fruits in vast abundance ; 
 
 but wheat seems 
 to have a very 
 serious time of 
 it in growing, so 
 that flour has to 
 be imported at 
 a discouraging 
 expense. No 
 one has yet succeeded in raising nutri- 
 tious hay or other fodder fit for cattle ; with 
 the result that cream is an unknown luxury, 
 milk is thin and blue, and butter comes 
 only in cans from over the sea. 
 
 All the more important local products 
 find a ready sale, when once they have 
 reached the market ; but transportation, 
 
 TRANSPORTATION IN THE INTERIOR. 
 
LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 25 
 
 especially in the interior, is uncertain and 
 slow, while labor, although amazingly 
 cheap, is unstable, refractory and for the 
 most part dishonest. 
 
 Each of the large cities maintains a 
 gorgeously uniformed fire department, but 
 the apparatus in actual use is of the most 
 feeble and antiquated description. One 
 night in Mayaguez, toward the end of 
 November, I was awakened by the ringing 
 of bells and yelling of people in the street. 
 
 Suspecting a fire, I hurriedly dressed 
 myself and went out-of-doors, when I saw 
 at a glance that a large building near the 
 water-front was a mass of flames. Upon 
 reaching the scene of conflagration, I found 
 the hand-engines in full operation, under 
 the excited manipulation of twoscore gold- 
 laced firemen, while an immense concourse 
 of townspeople stood near by, their eyes 
 sparkling with enjoyment. 
 
 As the burning structure stubbornly dis- 
 regarded the tiny streams of water thrown 
 
26 
 
 LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 upon it, the efforts of the firemen grew less 
 and less active, until at last they ceased 
 altogether. Then, probably to recom- 
 pense the assembled taxpayers for their 
 broken rest, the fire-brigade fell into line 
 and went through 
 a lively and well- 
 executed series of cal- 
 isthenics, after which 
 they marched to their 
 quarters, headed by 
 the local band, and 
 loudly cheered from 
 every side. 
 
 The young girl of 
 the upper classes, 
 with her flashing eyes 
 and flower - decked 
 hair, is a captivating creature. Although 
 her conversation is seldom brilliant, she 
 can portray whole paragraphs of meaning 
 in a single movement of her dainty fan. 
 She is graceful, tender and merry, and 
 
 CAPTIVATING. 
 
LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 27 
 
 nearly always becomes a devoted wife 
 before she is twenty. Her brother is 
 usually good-looking, neatly dressed, indo- 
 lent and haughty, with a great fondness 
 for fencing, ice-cream and horses, and a 
 knightly regard for all womenfolk. 
 
 The costume of both sexes is but little 
 different from the dress worn in summer in 
 the United States, with the exception that 
 the women seldom wear any head-covering, 
 even in the cooler part of the year. 
 Among the poorer people, especially the 
 blacks, one finds, of course, a noticeable 
 simplicity of attire, the fat little children 
 tumbling about in the dust wholly unclad 
 until they are about ten years old, while 
 their fathers and mothers are each content 
 with but two garments, generally of white 
 cotton. 
 
 While in Mayaguez, it was my good 
 fortune to be quartered for several weeks 
 in the clean and comfortable Hotel Paris. 
 Among my fellow-boarders were several 
 
28 LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 Spanish gentlemen, some of them being 
 officers on parole, and the rest clerks or 
 merchants. 
 
 Although they knew that I could con- 
 verse with them in Spanish, as I was at that 
 time an interpreter at brigade headquar- 
 ters, these men insisted upon speaking 
 nothing but English to me as we sat in the 
 broad veranda after supper ; and this in 
 spite of the fact that they were entirely 
 ignorant of the meaning, even in transla- 
 tion, of the phrases they uttered. 
 
 For instance, little Senor Ocasio would 
 say, with a portentous frown, "My boy, 
 you are a lobster," and gravely await my 
 reply ; or fat Senor Correa would sputter, 
 " I deedn't do a ting to 'im my coal black 
 lady get out of here hot stuff! " and beam 
 upon me for approval. 
 
 I could hardly refrain from emphatic 
 disapproval. It made no difference that I 
 explained, again and again, the lack of 
 sense in these remarks ; they had heard 
 
LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 29 
 
 the Americanos say the words, and the 
 words were English ; therefore if they 
 remembered the words correctly, they 
 were learning to speak the language. 
 
 Perhaps the worst offender of all was a 
 certain Estevan Castro, who knew but one 
 phrase in our tongue and always greeted 
 
 me with it, no 
 matter where we 
 might meet, often 
 to my extreme 
 embarrassment. 
 "Hold, sefior!" 
 he would shout. 
 "You are one 
 great big liar ! " Many times did I remon- 
 strate with him and point out his uninten- 
 tional insult ; he was grieved and penitent 
 and offered me ten thousand pardons, only 
 to repeat his performance at the next 
 opportunity. 
 
 The greater part of my stay in Porto 
 Rico was during the rainy season, and at 
 
 GATEWAY, SAN JUAN. 
 
30 LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 first I expected to see nothing better for 
 weather than a constant downpour; but I 
 was pleasantly surprised. Sometimes, it is 
 true, rain would fall in torrents for two or 
 three days in succession, perhaps accom- 
 panied by blinding flashes of lightning and 
 deafening thunder. 
 
 Usually we were let off with a single 
 daily shower of not more than an hour's 
 duration. I have since been told, however, 
 that if I had been stationed on the northern 
 coast instead of the western, I should have 
 learned in good earnest why the summer 
 season is called rainy. 
 
 Yellow fever, despite a general belief 
 to the contrary, is by no means a common 
 disease in this island. Indeed, some local- 
 ities, like Mayaguez and Aguadilla, have 
 not known a solitary case of the dreaded 
 plague for many years. The chief excep- 
 tion to this happy immunity is the capital, 
 San Juan. 
 
 Among the insects of the island a 
 
LIFE IN PORTO RICO. 31 
 
 literally prominent place is taken by the 
 cockroaches, for the entire island swarms 
 with them. They grow to an almost in- 
 credible size, and crawl about your room 
 and over your person, without regard for 
 nerves or shudders. 
 
 As an offset to this pest, however, it 
 may be said that there are practically no 
 snakes, centipedes or tarantulas in any 
 part of Porto Rico, which is more than 
 one would ordinarily expect in a tropical 
 country, and the cockroaches do not bite. 
 
 Whatever its faults may be, Porto Rico 
 is a garden-spot that sends one away 
 bearing a cluster of fragrant memories. 
 The perfect sky, the fresh greenness of the 
 landscape, the long, narrow streets, the 
 huge yellow churches, the fountains, 
 flowers and murmuring guitars somehow 
 these things fasten themselves about one's 
 heart-strings and refuse to be forgotten. 
 
 KARL STEPHEN HERRMANN. 
 
Progress. 
 
 With a sword in one hand and the heal- 
 ing arts of civilization in the other, the 
 United States moved upon the islands of 
 the sea. The American Tract Society has 
 more than four hundred publications in the 
 Spanish language, and is trying to put two 
 of them, a primer and a New Testament, 
 into the hands of every Porto Rican family. 
 
 The progress of Porto Rico in American 
 ideas is encouraging. The inhabitants 
 seem to welcome and appreciate all meas- 
 ures designed to further their social and 
 civic well-being. It is almost pathetically 
 suggestive that a people so long under the 
 domination of Spanish law, in whose 
 methods of jurisprudence habeas corpus 
 had no place, and of whose gracious mean- 
 ing they were ignorant, should request its 
 application throughout the island. 
 
 Much to their rejoicing, the system of 
 
PROGRESS. 
 
 33 
 
 direct taxation is abolished. Under 
 Spanish rule, its workings were bitterly 
 oppressive, and the visit of the tax-collector 
 
 FIRST AMERICAN SCHOOL IN PORTO RICO. 
 
 was the prelude of cruelty and despoilment. 
 Beginning with July i, 1899, free public 
 schools on the American plan were 
 
34 PROGRESS. 
 
 established in Porto Rico. The system was 
 devised by Gen. John B. Eaton, superin- 
 tendent of schools, to give instruction to 
 all persons between the ages of six and 
 eighteen for nine months in each year, and 
 to support the school by public taxation. 
 
 General Eaton adopted a happy plan for 
 a kind of educational exchange. Vessels 
 on government business ply back and forth 
 between Porto Rico and the United States 
 during the summer. Free transportation 
 was offered to public school teachers in 
 Porto Rico who desired to come to the 
 United States in order to learn the English 
 language, and to become acquainted with 
 American customs and institutions. This 
 also gave an opportunity for Americans to 
 form classes for the study of Spanish. 
 
 In the autumn of 1899, for the first time 
 in her annals, Porto Rico enjoyed the 
 excitement of a municipal election, and 
 experienced the unwonted legal procedure 
 of a trial by jury. Eleven natives, with one 
 
PROGRESS. 35 
 
 Yankee to act as foreman, composed the 
 jury, and the result of their deliberations is 
 said to have been eminently satisfactory to 
 every one except the culprit. 
 
 The election, although promising as a 
 first attempt, was marked by innocent but 
 somewhat embarrassing innovations. The 
 supervisors became hungry at noontime, 
 and adjourned for dinner, taking the ballot- 
 boxes with them. This rendered the ap- 
 pointing of another election necessary to 
 forestall possible complaints of illegality. 
 These and other encouraging facts show 
 that American ideas and methods are 
 making headway in Porto Rico. 
 
 A great step was taken toward the 
 union of Porto Ricans and Americans in 
 heart and intellect when postage between 
 them was reduced to the domestic rates of 
 the United States. American publications 
 began at once to flow into Porto Rico, and 
 correspondence multiplied. 
 
 Another important element of union is 
 
36 PROGRESS. 
 
 the gradual substitution of United States 
 money for Spanish silver. 
 
 Porto Rico is the first of the new posses- 
 sions of the United States to receive a 
 definite civil government. The act of 
 Congress went into effect on May i , 1 900. 
 
 The form of government resembles that 
 of territories of the United States, but 
 differs from it in important particulars. 
 The governor and an executive council are 
 appointed by the President; a legislative 
 assembly is partly elected by the people. 
 The island will be represented at Washing- 
 ton by a resident commissioner. 
 
 The law contains a suggestion of a future 
 enlargement of these privileges through 
 the agency of a special commission which 
 is to compile and revise the laws of the 
 island, and report -within one year such 
 legislation as may be necessary to make a 
 simple, harmonious and economical gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 The chief interest in Congress did not 
 
PROGRESS. 
 
 37 
 
 centre in the provisions for civil govern- 
 ment, but in the tariff features of the act. 
 It was argued that the island belongs to 
 the United States, but is not a part of it; 
 
 THE GOVERNOR'S HOUSE, SAN JUAN. 
 
 that Congress is therefore free to provide 
 such a system as it pleases, and that a 
 tariff is necessary to provide for the ex- 
 penses of the Porto Rican government. 
 
 The act imposes upon Porto Rican 
 imports from the United States, and upon 
 United States imports from Porto Rico, 
 
38 PROGRESS. 
 
 fifteen one-hundredths of the duties im- 
 posed on similar goods under the Dingley 
 law, which would be, on the average, about 
 seven per cent, of their value. But more 
 than half of what Porto Rico imports, in- 
 cluding flour, pork, agricultural implements 
 and other things most needed, is in the 
 free list. 
 
 All the duties collected on Porto Rican 
 trade, whether in the United States or in 
 the island, are to go to the island treasury. 
 Moreover, the tariff is to last but two years 
 at the longest, and may be terminated 
 sooner, if the Porto Rican legislative 
 assembly so votes. 
 
 The first Governor of Porto Rico, under 
 the new law establishing a civil government 
 in the island, is Charles H. Allen, of 
 Massachusetts, who held for two years the 
 office of assistant secretary of the navy. 
 
 The reception of Governor Allen by the 
 people of Porto Rico was encouraging in 
 the extreme. Inauguration day was a 
 
PROGRESS. 39 
 
 public holiday, and the streets of San Juan 
 were thronged with enthusiastic citizens 
 decorated with miniature American flags. 
 
 Private houses as well as public buildings 
 were profusely adorned with the Red, White 
 and Blue, and everybody 
 seemed desirous to contrib- 
 ute to the success of the 
 new government. 
 
 Governor Allen in his in- 
 augural address impressed 
 his hearers with confidence 
 in his purpose to secure the 
 best welfare of the island. 
 He won their hearts by saying, "I am now 
 a citizen of Porto Rico." He spoke most 
 eloquently of their grand opportunities, and 
 predicted a future when every resident 
 would be proud to declare, "I am a citizen 
 of the United States." 
 
 At these words those of his hearers who 
 understood English burst into a storm 
 of applause, and when the words were 
 
 GOVERNOR ALLEN. 
 
40 PROGRESS. 
 
 repeated in Spanish the cheers were re- 
 doubled. That this popular enthusiasm was 
 not merely superficial is evident by the 
 graceful and dignified address of welcome 
 to the new Governor by the Chief Justice 
 of the Supreme Court of Porto Rico. 
 
 With true statesmen guiding public 
 affairs, with loyal citizens throughout the 
 island, and universal education in the 
 rapidly increasing public schools, Porto 
 Rico may confidently expect a new epoch 
 of self -development along the highest 
 lines of industry and character. 
 
A Fourth of July. 
 
 The American newspaper at San Juan, 
 the News, had announced that the capital 
 of the island would celebrate the Fourth of 
 July, and do it on no small scale. This led 
 us to wonder if we could not organize a 
 celebration at Fajardo. 
 
 At San Juan there are many Americans, 
 and therefore it would be easy to organize 
 a celebration. At Fajardo, which is a com- 
 paratively small place at the eastern end of 
 the island, we had less than a dozen Amer- 
 icans, all told. If we were to celebrate, it 
 was plain that we must interest the Porto 
 Ricans. 
 
 One of them, a prominent citizen and 
 the former American consul, had been 
 educated in the United States. He re- 
 sponded with enthusiasm when the subject 
 was broached to him, and through him the 
 whole population soon took it up. 
 
42 A FOURTH OF JULY. 
 
 We felt that we had to begin with the 
 small boy. We had misgivings, for the 
 Porto Rican small boy is very tame, 
 so tame, indeed, that we doubted if he 
 could raise an old - fashioned Fourth of 
 July yell. But soon our doubts were 
 entirely dispelled. 
 
 On the evening of the third the word 
 was passed around that one of the Amer- 
 icanos had firecrackers to sell, and before 
 long he had sold his entire stock. The 
 small boy, and the large one, too, became 
 very much in evidence, and proved that he 
 could make a noise as well as his brother 
 in the States. 
 
 The Fourth, according to the program, 
 was to open with a salute of cannon- 
 crackers at four o'clock, after which the 
 band was to parade the town, playing 
 American airs. However, the saluting 
 committee overslept, and the band paraded 
 first. This awoke the saluters, and they 
 promptly attended to their part of the duty, 
 
A FOURTH OF JULY. 
 
 43 
 
 somewhat to the confusion of the musicians, 
 who faithfully performed their part. 
 
 Next came the singing of extempora- 
 neous poems by their authors, with guitar 
 accompaniment. All the Porto Ricans are 
 
 THE PARADE. 
 
 poets, and all the participants in this part 
 of the program, which was a great success, 
 belonged to the laboring class. Their 
 theme in every case was the Fourth of 
 July and the event it commemorated. 
 
 One of the poems, taken down during 
 its recitation maybe translated: "Monroe 
 said, 'America for the Americans;' and 
 
44 A FOURTH OF JULY. 
 
 this is to-day affirmed by a Porto Rican. 
 We are all brothers, let us live prudently, 
 and, united with growing faith under the 
 federal union, let us learn to respect 
 Independent America! " 
 
 Some of these efforts called out pro- 
 longed applause, which was heartily re- 
 peated at each award of the prizes for 
 these compositions. The first prize was 
 one peso (dollar) and a flag, the second, 
 half a peso and a flag, and the third a flag. 
 The prize - winners, on the spur of the 
 moment, favored the audience with ad- 
 dresses appropriate to the occasion and 
 devoted to the flag. 
 
 At one o'clock the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence was read in Spanish, and some 
 short addresses followed. Then the crowd 
 adjourned to the Plaza to see the races 
 and contests, which were as follows: A 
 sack race, a three-legged race, an obstacle 
 race, in which the contestants had to 
 crawl through two barrels, a mango race 
 
A FOURTH OF JULY. 45 
 
 (mangoes in place of potatoes) , and ordi- 
 nary running races ; greased pig catching, 
 greased pole climbing, and a contest in 
 snipping with scissors for the girls. 
 
 After dark came the fireworks. They 
 were not remarkable for quantity, but were 
 good in quality. They were followed by 
 a play at the theatre presented by native 
 talent. Finally the festivities wound up 
 with a ball, or rather with several balls, the 
 largest of which was given at the house of 
 the American family. The young people 
 literally crowded the house. 
 
 We regarded our celebration as a bril- 
 liant success, especially in view of its 
 experimental character and the limited 
 means at our command. The first Fourth 
 of July in Porto Rico will bear a shining 
 mark in the annals of the island. 
 
 JENNIE D. HILL. 
 
Two Boys in Morro Castle. 
 
 It was a great and glorious day for Mark 
 and Chester Gray when their mother 
 received word that they were all to join 
 Major Gray in San Juan, where, after the 
 evacuation of the Spanish troops, he had 
 been stationed in command of Morro 
 Castle, the grand old fortress which guards 
 the harbor entrance. 
 
 Mark was fourteen and Chester twelve, 
 and they possessed all the enthusiasm of 
 their years for military matters, although 
 they really knew very little about them, as 
 they had spent most of their lives in New 
 York, while their father had been stationed 
 in the far West and Southwest. 
 
 They had been living on the promise 
 that some day they should visit him and 
 see all they wanted of Indians and cow- 
 boys, but the blowing up of the Maine 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 47 
 
 upset their family plans, as it did the plans 
 of a great many other people. 
 
 The boys will never forget the weeks of 
 suspense that followed. But the war was 
 over, the major had escaped its dangers, 
 and the boys, with their mother, were to 
 join him where they would meet with 
 adventures far more fascinating than 
 cowboys and Indians. 
 
 One of the first things the boys did at 
 San Juan was to gain their father's permis- 
 sion to explore the old castle. Then, 
 under the guidance of an artilleryman, they 
 examined every part of the old fortress 
 known to the Americans. 
 
 They saw the Spanish gun which had 
 been dismounted by a shot from the Har- 
 vard and another which had killed two men 
 on the New York; the watch-tower through 
 which a shell had passed, killing the 
 Spanish sentry inside, and the great scar 
 in the wall behind, where it had burst. 
 They climbed up into the lighthouse which 
 
48 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 the American government had built after 
 the old one had been destroyed in the 
 bombardment. 
 
 They followed their guide into the men's 
 quarters: cool, cavelike rooms in the walls, 
 
 MORRO FROM HARBOR ENTRANCE. 
 
 looking out over the rocks and breakers 
 far down below. They went down a flight 
 of broad, low stone steps into the great 
 courtyard which now served as the kitchen, 
 fitted with the best of modern cooking- 
 stoves set in convenient archways, with a 
 dozen soldier-cooks at work. 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 49 
 
 As they mounted the steps again, they 
 met a little white dog trotting leisurely 
 down; a very white dog indeed, with a 
 pointed black nose, who stopped and 
 cocked an inquiring ear at them. 
 
 " Hullo, Spigotty ! " said the soldier. " I 
 haven't seen you for a week." 
 
 " What a name ! " said Mark, as the little 
 dog jumped up against the soldier's legs, 
 with much wagging of a curly tail. " What 
 do you call him that for?" 
 
 " Because he's a Spigotty pup," replied 
 the soldier, logically. "You see," he went 
 on in an explanatory vein, "we fellows call 
 everything down here 'Spigotty,' and we 
 found this little chap in the fort when we 
 came. We tried a lot of American dog 
 names on him, and all the Spanish ones we 
 knew, but he wouldn't answer to any of 
 them, so we just concluded to call him 
 what he was. 
 
 "The Spaniards left here in a hurry," 
 continued the artilleryman, "and I guess 
 
50 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 they forgot to take him along, but they 
 must have thought a lot of him. When 
 we tried to teach him tricks, we found that 
 he could drill as well as we could, with a 
 stick, and there isn't a sentry he doesn't 
 visit every night." 
 
 Spigotty, having duly sniffed at the new- 
 comers' golf stockings, and having been 
 patted and tumbled over on his back, con- 
 cluded to approve of the situation, and 
 followed them as they continued their 
 explorations. Both boys- were true lovers 
 of dogs, and the halo of mystery surround- 
 ing this little furry waif added strongly to 
 his attractions. They determined to culti- 
 vate him. 
 
 At last the soldier led them into a dark, 
 grim - looking passageway, in which he 
 could just stand upright, and which led up 
 and down, right and left, till the boys were 
 thoroughly bewildered. He finally brought 
 them out most unexpectedly in front of 
 their own quarters, with Spigotty, who had 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 51 
 
 scurried ahead, waiting to receive them. 
 The soldier laughed at their surprise as 
 they stood blinking in the glaring sunlight. 
 
 4 'There are lots of those old secret pas- 
 sages in the fort," he said. "There's said to 
 be one leading all the way to San Cristobal 
 fortress at the other end of the town, but 
 the Spaniards covered up the entrance 
 when they left, and nobody has been able 
 to find it." 
 
 And then his heels came together with 
 a thump and his hand went up to his 
 helmet, as Major Gray appeared and sum- 
 moned the boys to luncheon. They waited 
 long enough to thank their good-natured 
 guide and to try to induce Spigotty to go 
 with them, but he brusquely started off in 
 a direction of his own. 
 
 "Dinner's getting ready in the men's 
 kitchen, you see," explained the soldier, 
 still stiff-backed and at attention in the 
 light of the major's receding figure, "and 
 he knows the time of day as well as we do." 
 
52 
 
 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 The chief result of this initiatory trip was 
 a fixed determination on the part of both 
 boys to find the secret passage to San 
 Cristobal. Having come to an under- 
 standing with their father as to where they 
 
 SAN CRISTOBAL. 
 
 what they 
 systematic 
 
 could and couldn't go, and 
 couldn't do, they began a 
 exploration. 
 
 They continued it day after day, discov- 
 ering over and over again several queer 
 passages, which always brought them out 
 at a different part of the Morro from where 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 53 
 
 they thought they were. But the rumored 
 passage leading to San Cristobal they still 
 had failed to find. Their father was not 
 surprised at this, for he scarcely believed 
 that such a passage existed. 
 
 But the boys, scorning all discourage- 
 ment, persisted in the search, usually 
 accompanied by Spigotty, who had always 
 looked wise and said nothing, even when 
 at last they did make a discovery, or 
 thought they did. 
 
 On this occasion they had brought their 
 bicycle lamps for the first time, and in one 
 of the old passages they found a spot where 
 it branched to the right. The branching 
 had been concealed by a big heap of earth, 
 bricks and general rubbish piled up as high 
 as the roof. On previous occasions the 
 boys had passed this rubbish heap without 
 investigation, but now they proceeded to 
 dig into it, to the detriment of clean hands 
 and white duck suits. 
 
 Spigotty, probably supposing that his 
 
54 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 friends were seeking rats, assisted them 
 ferociously, burrowing at the foot of the 
 heap with such vigor that the whole mass 
 soon came down like an avalanche, bury- 
 ing the boys to their knees and Spigotty 
 entirely. They pulled him out by his hind 
 legs and left him to shake himself, while 
 they inspected what the rubbish heap had 
 hidden. 
 
 "It's a wooden door," said Chester. 
 
 "And very rotten," said Mark. "Let's 
 smash it." 
 
 So they pulled and tore at the decayed 
 boards until the ancient, rust-eaten hinges 
 gave way all at once, and two boys and a 
 big door fell in a heap, while a small dog 
 fled as if for his life. 
 
 The boys picked themselves up and saw 
 an archway, about eight feet high and 
 wide enough for two men to walk in 
 abreast. It opened a passage whose floor 
 and walls were composed of the most 
 primitive rough bricks, so far as they could 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 55 
 
 see, which wasn't very far, even with the 
 bicycle lamps. From the dense blackness 
 beyond vision came flowing chilly air which 
 encompassed them in an invisible and 
 discouraging cloud. 
 
 The boys stared at the archway and at 
 each other. Finally Mark spoke up reso- 
 lutely. " You wait here a second. I'll go 
 in and see what it's like." Holding his 
 lamp up, he stepped gingerly within the 
 archway. 
 
 But Chester would not wait. He was 
 promptly followed by Spigotty, who now 
 squirmed between the boys' legs, and 
 trotted confidently forward into the dark- 
 ness. The boys proceeded cautiously, 
 using the lamps to inspect the floor before 
 them. Soon they came to a downward 
 flight of steps, broad and shallow, and 
 greatly worn. 
 
 As the boys were descending very care- 
 fully, Spigotty came up out of the dark- 
 ness below as if to see why they didn't 
 
56 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 hurry, for he immediately turned about and 
 vanished again. 
 
 At the foot of the steps the passage 
 curved to the left and then led them to 
 another door, a massive one covered with 
 strange, rusty bolts and bands of iron 
 curiously wrought. It was slightly ajar, 
 and in the opening lay an old-fashioned 
 mortar-shell. 
 
 Mark poked his lantern around the edge 
 of the door and peered in. 
 
 "It seems to be a big room," he said, 
 " and I can hear Spigotty sniffing round. 
 I guess it's all right; let's go in." 
 
 He stepped over the shell and squeezed 
 himself through the opening. In a 
 moment he called, " It's nothing but a 
 room ! Come ahead in ! " Chester, edging 
 himself in, stepped upon the shell, which 
 must have been very lightly balanced, for 
 his weight suddenly set it rolling, and off 
 he slid into the room. The uneven floor, 
 sunken a little in the middle, was of broad 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 57 
 
 tiles cracked and broken, over which the 
 shell rolled to the centre, with hollow, 
 reverberating bumps. 
 
 As the boys watched it with some alarm, 
 a most unexpected thing happened. With 
 a quick creaking of rusty hinges and a final 
 grinding, noisy click of locks, the massive 
 door closed. Evidently the bombshell 
 was all that held it open. Now the great 
 old steel springs, aided perhaps by the 
 draft that freshly traversed the long-closed 
 passage, had pushed the door shut. 
 
 Neither of the boys could see how pale 
 the other was as, without a word, they put 
 the lamps on the floor- and pushed at the 
 door with all their boyish strength. It 
 seemed as immovable as the very walls of 
 the fort, and soldier's sons though they 
 were, the boys were thoroughly frightened. 
 Well they might be ! They were prisoners 
 in one of the deepest dungeons of a medi- 
 aeval fortress, built with the ingenious 
 secrecy of the great days of Spain. 
 
58 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 "What shall we do?" asked Chester. 
 
 "I don't know," answered Mark. Then 
 remembering the duties of an elder 
 brother, he braced up. "Oh, we are all 
 right, Chester. We'll get out some time, 
 for they'll find the door that we pulled 
 down, and the guard knows that we 
 haven't left the fort." But he knew that 
 the broken-down door was in one of the 
 least frequented parts of the Morro. 
 
 " Let's look round," he added. " Where's 
 Spigotty?" 
 
 They whistled and called, but no 
 Spigotty responded. The only sound 
 they could hear was the pounding of the 
 surf and the rushing of receding waves. 
 
 " He was here when the door shut," 
 said Chester. " I saw him getting out of 
 the way of that cannon-ball. If he can get 
 out of here, perhaps we can." 
 
 Searching for an outlet, they found they 
 were in a long room with a high, arched 
 roof. A row of plain wooden benches, 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 59 
 
 each about two feet wide, stood on stout 
 legs at right angles to the wall, with 
 roughly rounded blocks of wood nailed at 
 the ends. At the foot of each bench, fas- 
 tened to a strong ring bolted to the stone 
 floor, lay a rusty chain with another ring at 
 the loose end. 
 
 " It's a dungeon where they used to put 
 prisoners," said Mark, "and those benches 
 are beds. Ugh ! what an awful place to 
 sleep in!" 
 
 "We're lucky to have these benches if 
 we've got to sleep here," replied Chester. 
 " But where is Spigotty?" 
 
 "Why, there's a window!" exclaimed 
 Mark, who had begun again to search the 
 room. 
 
 What he had discovered was a square 
 opening in the wall, about two feet wide, 
 with strong, upright iron bars some six 
 inches apart. Outside of this was fas- 
 tened a plate of iron, bolted to the wall and 
 held several inches away from the window, 
 
60 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 so that it would admit air to the prisoners 
 and at the same time give them no glimpse 
 of the outside world. 
 
 As the boys were examining this con- 
 trivance, they were startled by a sudden 
 scratching and scrabbling sound outside, 
 
 MORRO, FROM THE CITY. 
 
 and who should appear but Spigotty! He 
 easily squeezed between the bars and 
 jumped into the room, apparently thor- 
 oughly at home. 
 
 "Well, I declare!" cried Mark. Then 
 he gave a jump of joy. " Here, I know 
 what! Got a pencil?" 
 
 " Yes ! " Chester was excitedly fishing in 
 his pockets. 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 61 
 
 "Let's have it! You hold on to 
 Spigotty! Now what can we write on?" 
 
 Dinner was on the table in the major's 
 quarters, and they were just beginning to 
 wonder where the boys were, when a tall 
 sergeant loomed up in the doorway, hold- 
 ing Spigotty in his arms. 
 
 " Well, sergeant, what is it?" demanded 
 the astonished major. 
 
 " He came popping into the kitchen, sir, 
 from out of a hole in the wall," the ser- 
 geant saluted with one hand and held the 
 wriggling Spigotty with the other, "and he 
 had this hitched to his collar." 
 
 He handed the major a cuff torn from a 
 boy's shirt and scribbled all over in pencil. 
 The major put on his glasses to read the 
 strange-looking hieroglyphics, and then 
 jumped up. 
 
 "Call the blacksmith and half a dozen 
 men, sergeant," he ordered, "with lan- 
 terns and tools! And don't let that dog 
 
62 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 get away from you!" Then, with a few 
 reassuring words to his wife, he hurried 
 after the sergeant. 
 
 Mark had described on his cuff their 
 location as well as he could, but the first 
 passage was in a very old, deserted part 
 of the fort, and it was not until Spigotty 
 scrambled out of the sergeant's arms and 
 went trotting in that the major felt sure it 
 was the right one. The dog led them over 
 the heap of earth and the broken door, 
 and down the steps to the great iron- 
 bound door. 
 
 A shout from the major brought from 
 inside a faint but hilarious reply of "That 
 you, papa? We're all right!" 
 
 But it was long before the two powerful 
 soldier-blacksmiths could break through 
 the mighty prison door, for only one could 
 work at a time in the narrow passage. 
 
 The major went back to report to Mrs. 
 Gray, and returned in time to assist in 
 hauling the boys, in a state of grime beyond 
 
TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 63 
 
 description, through a great hole in the 
 mass of twisted iron and splintered wood. 
 
 "The second candle has just gone out, 
 papa," burst out Chester, blinking in the 
 glare of the lanterns, " and we were saving 
 the grease to eat! " 
 
 "Well, there's something better than 
 candle-grease in the dining-room," said the 
 major, quietly. " Come up and get a bath 
 and some dinner, and we'll discuss this 
 performance of yours afterward." 
 
 "Dinner!" exclaimed Mark, as they 
 walked through the passages, followed by 
 the perspiring, grinning soldiers and the 
 highly self-conscious Spigotty. "Gracious, 
 we thought it was breakfast-time!" 
 
 And after all they had not found the 
 passage to Fort San Cristobal, which 
 remains undiscovered. 
 
 Some time after their adventure the boys 
 were told by a Porto Rican, who had been 
 employed in the Morro during the Spanish 
 times, and who had heard of Spigotty' s 
 
64 TWO BOYS IN MORRO CASTLE. 
 
 wonderful rescuing performances, that the 
 dog had been the special pet of a Spanish 
 soldier who was always getting into trouble. 
 When he was confined in that dungeon, he 
 had trained his faithful little friend to carry 
 messages in and out of the window 
 unknown to the officers. 
 
 "He always brought these messages to 
 the cook," added their informer, ''who was 
 this bad man's dear friend, and the cook 
 would send him back with lettuce and 
 garlic for the prisoner to eat with his 
 bread, but nobody knew how he found his 
 way." 
 
 4 'And do you suppose he would have 
 brought food to Americans?" asked 
 Chester, anxiously. 
 
 "Surely, indeed," replied the dark- 
 skinned native. "For he, like all good 
 Porto Ricans, is now a true American, 
 
 my little general!" 
 
 CHARLES B. HOWARD. 
 
IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
7 Puerto Pnncesa? 
 'J PAR. AQUA IS. 
 
 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 
 
Battle of Manila Bay. 
 
 Our navy opened the war with Spain by 
 winning a brilliant victory. By the custom 
 of nations, armed vessels of countries at 
 war are not allowed to remain for an indef- 
 inite time in a friendly port, but they may 
 of course invade a harbor of the enemy 
 if they are able to overcome its defences of 
 mines, forts and war-ships. 
 
 Acting on this principle of courtesy to 
 a friendly nation and a desire to strike a 
 blow at the enemy, Commodore Dewey 
 sailed with his squadron from Hongkong 
 on April 27, 1898. Three days later, 
 under cover of the night, he steamed 
 boldly into Manila Bay, disregarding the 
 mines and torpedoes guarding the entrance, 
 and at daybreak on Sunday, the first of 
 May, attacked the Spanish ships, which 
 had taken refuge under the guns of the 
 forts at Cavite, the naval station of Manila. 
 
68 BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 He was obliged to expose his unarmored 
 vessels to the combined fire of the Spanish 
 forts and fleet, but after two sharp engage- 
 ments the two largest Spanish cruisers 
 were burned, the smaller 
 vessels were sunk or dis- 
 abled, and Cavite sur- 
 rendered, thus leaving 
 Manila and all the Philip- 
 pines practically in the 
 power of the Americans. 
 COMMODORE DEWEv. The world joined his 
 
 own countrymen in paying tribute to Com- 
 modore Dewey's heroism. It was not that 
 the Spanish fleet was formidable, for our 
 own ships were in all respects superior; 
 but every one admires the cool courage 
 that led the commander of our forces to 
 brave hidden dangers in entering the 
 harbor of Manila, and getting to a point 
 where he could attack the enemy ; and the 
 tactical skill with which he manoeuvred so 
 as to demolish the Spanish fleet without 
 
BATTLE OF MANILA BAY. 
 
 69 
 
 serious injury to one of his own vessels. 
 Commodore Dewey's discretion and en- 
 durance, his wise silence and keen watch- 
 fulness, were tested in the long weeks of 
 holding Cavite and blockading Manila till 
 General Merritt arrived with supplies and 
 a military force able to cope with all the 
 difficulties that might 
 arise at the surrender 
 of Manila. 
 
 While Commodore 
 Dewey was receiving 
 so much popular praise 
 throughout the United 
 States, the President, in 
 recognition of his ability and his opportune 
 deeds, promoted him to the rank of 
 Admiral, the highest grade of honor in the 
 American navy. 
 
The Fall of Manila. 
 
 On August 7, 1898, a note was sent to 
 the governor-general, signed by Admiral 
 Dewey and myself, stating that the city 
 might be bombarded at any time after forty- 
 eight hours, or sooner if the firing on our 
 trenches by the Spanish troops was con- 
 tinued. This note was effective, for not 
 a shot was fired on either side from this 
 time until the final assault was made. 
 
 All the troops were in readiness early on 
 the morning of the i3th. At nine o'clock 
 the fleet left its anchorage off Cavite and 
 steamed slowly toward Manila, taking up a 
 position opposite the magazine fort. The 
 Zafiro, with myself and staff on board, 
 moved up with the fleet as far as Greene's 
 camp, about a mile from the city walls, and 
 steamed as near shore as her draft would 
 allow her to go. 
 
 The foreign war-ships which had been 
 
THE FALL OF MANILA. 71 
 
 anchored off the walled city steamed out of 
 the line of fire, and at 9.40 the Olympia 
 sent two challenge shots from her eight- 
 inch guns in the direction of the Malate 
 fort, quickly followed by 
 a six-inch shell from the 
 Petrel. One of these 
 shells touched the water, 
 rose, and exploded at the 
 base of the fort. 
 
 There was no reply 
 from the enemy's guns. 
 The white flag, which we 
 half expected would be 
 run up, did not appear. Not the slightest 
 notice was taken of us ; we had invited 
 them either to fight or surrender. Appar- 
 ently they were going to do neither. After 
 a brief pause the flag- ship, with the Raleigh 
 and the Petrel, opened a hot and effective 
 fire against the sea flank of the Spanish 
 intrenchments and the magazine fort. 
 
 When it was believed that Greene's 
 
 GENERAL MEKK1TT. 
 
72 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 brigade could advance, the fleet was sig- 
 nalled from the shore to cease firing. The 
 battalion on the beach advanced with a 
 rush, under cover of a steady fire from the 
 other column, waded the creek in front of 
 the fort, swarmed into the enclosure, which 
 was found deserted, and raised the Amer- 
 ican flag. The second and third battalions, 
 which had advanced between the Calle 
 Real and the beach, passed over the de- 
 serted trenches, and joined the first battal- 
 ion beyond on the Calle Real. The First 
 California also came up, and the movement 
 into Malate was begun. 
 
 The march of the Colorado and Califor- 
 nia troops through Malate was checked by 
 a heavy fire from a second line of defence 
 along the road from Malate to Singalon. 
 
 This opposition was subdued after a 
 short engagement. The advance then 
 continued toward Manila, the California 
 regiment and the regulars moving along 
 the Calle Real, with the Colorado troops 
 
THE FALL OF MANILA. 73 
 
 on their right flank and the Nebraska men 
 to their left on the beach. 
 
 The brigade proceeded in this formation 
 through Malate and Ermita in the face of a 
 straggling fire from the 
 direction of Paco, reach- 
 ing the Luneta just 
 south of the walled city 
 about one o'clock. A 
 white flag was flying at ^J 
 the southwest corner of 
 the city wall, and the 
 brigade commander was 
 informed that negotia- 
 tions for surrender were in progress. 
 
 At the Paco road Greene's troops were 
 met by a body of nearly one thousand 
 Spaniards, who surrendered and were or- 
 dered inside the city. This force had 
 probably been driven in by the insurgents 
 from Santa Ana, through Paco, and it was 
 doubtless the same detachment which had 
 harried our troops from the Singalon woods 
 
 GENERAL GREKNE. 
 
74 
 
 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 in their march through Malate. A large 
 number of insurgents had penetrated to 
 the walls of the city, expecting to be allowed 
 to enter and raise their flag, and quite a 
 show of force was necessary in order to 
 hold them in check. Although our troops 
 had ceased firing as soon as the white flag 
 was observed, the Filipinos continued to 
 use their arms against the Spaniards who 
 lined the walls of the town, and the latter 
 in returning their fire 
 killed one man and 
 wounded two others in 
 the California regiment. 
 Meantime General 
 MacArthur's troops on 
 the right, advancing 
 along the Paco road, 
 had done some sharp 
 fighting. 
 
 Leaving a battalion of 
 infantry to intercept any possible advance of 
 the insurgents, the brigade moved forward 
 
 GENERAL MACARTHUR. 
 
THE FALL OF MANILA. 75 
 
 along the Pasay road without opposition, to 
 a point just south of Singalon, where a 
 scattering fire from the enemy was encoun- 
 tered. The intensity of this fire increased 
 as the forward movement was pressed, 
 and developed into strong opposition at a 
 blockhouse in the village mentioned, which 
 was occupied by a strong detachment of 
 infantry. 
 
 Here the American skirmishers, volun- 
 teers from the Astor Battery and the 
 Thirteenth Minnesota Regiment, were 
 obliged to retire after they had pushed 
 forward to within eighty yards of the 
 blockhouse. 
 
 A rough work was hastily improvised, 
 and held with great gallantry by a firing- 
 line of about fifteen men until the main 
 body of the troops came up. The Ameri- 
 cans took refuge behind the village church, 
 stone walls, and anything else which offered 
 shelter, and poured a steady fire into the 
 blockhouse. The resistance was obstinate, 
 
76 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 but finally succumbed to the fire of the 
 Americans, and the advance was resumed 
 toward Malate. The engagement lasted 
 for an hour and a half, and was probably 
 the most hotly contested action of the day; 
 buHt was the last stand of the enemy, and 
 MacArthur's troops marched through the 
 Paco district, and entered the city without 
 further opposition. 
 
 After the surrender, the station occupied 
 by the first brigade covered the Ermita 
 and Malate districts to the south of the 
 walled city, and extended around it as far 
 north as the Pasig River. The second 
 brigade occupied the section north of the 
 Pasig River, which is the principal business 
 portion of the city. This distribution of 
 the American troops outside the city walls 
 was necessary for the protection of lives 
 and property against the insurgents. 
 
 Most of the Spanish residents of the 
 suburbs had taken refuge within the walled 
 city, leaving their houses vacant, and some 
 
CITY WALL BY THE PASIG. 
 
 THE FALL OF MANILA. 77 
 
 of them were looted, in spite of the vigi- 
 lance of the Americans. 
 
 During the operations on shore, the 
 Zafiro had remained on a line with the 
 fleet, and be- 
 tween it and 
 the shore. 
 
 Owing to the 
 distance and 
 to the heavy 
 growth of bam- 
 boo along the water's edge, beyond which 
 most of the fighting took place, we were 
 unable to observe the progress of the attack. 
 
 When Greene's men left their trenches, 
 the column which advanced by the beach 
 could be plainly seen. Watching from the 
 bridge of the Zafiro, we saw the long 
 brown line move along between the 
 jungle and the surf. When it reached the 
 creek it sank out of sight for a moment, 
 as the men swam and floundered through; 
 but we could see it as it emerged on the 
 
78 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 other side, went up the incline to the fort, 
 and disappeared within the enclosure. 
 
 Presently the red and yellow flag came 
 fluttering down to make way for the Stars 
 and Stripes, which was quickly floating in 
 its place. Then we heard the cheering, 
 faintly at first, then louder as it was 
 caught up by every soldier within sight 
 of the flag. 
 
 The first intimation we had of the sur- 
 render was the appearance of a small 
 launch heading for the flag-ship, flying a 
 flag of truce at the bow and the colors of 
 Belgium at the stern. She had on board 
 Monsieur Andre, the Belgian consul, who 
 bore a message from the captain-general, 
 stating that he was ready to receive 
 representatives of the army and the navy 
 to arrange for turning over the city. 
 
 The consul tendered the services of his 
 launch, and Lieutenant - Colonel Whittier, 
 of my staff, and Lieutenant Brumby, 
 Admiral Dewey's flag lieutenant, returned 
 
THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 79 
 
 with him to the city. Shortly afterward a 
 white flag went up on the city walls. 
 
 When the two officers came back, the 
 international signal, "The enemy has sur- 
 rendered," was hoisted at the masthead of 
 the Olympia, and I was then conveyed 
 ashore with my personal staff. We en- 
 tered the city by way 
 of the Pasig River, 
 which was so filled 
 with sunken hulks as 
 to render the ingress 
 very tortuous and 
 difficult. Our little 
 party marched quietly 
 through the streets to 
 the cathedral, where 
 the terms of surrender 
 which had been agreed upon by our repre- 
 sentatives were presented to us for approval, 
 Monsieur Andre acting as interpreter. We 
 then proceeded to the city palace of the 
 governor-general, where temporary head- 
 
 CAVITE AND MANILA. 
 
80 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 quarters were established. None of our 
 troops had as yet entered the walled city. 
 
 The Second Oregon Regiment was on its 
 way from Cavite by sea to act as a provost 
 guard, and the troops of MacArthur and 
 Greene were stationed throughout the city 
 beyond the walls. The Spanish forces, how- 
 ever, were swarming in from the trenches, 
 and the street in front of the palace was 
 soon literally covered with great heaps of 
 Mauser and Remington rifles and many 
 pieces of artillery. 
 
 The small park across the street, was 
 transformed into a corral for the horses. 
 In no instance was there the slightest 
 disorder among the Spaniards. As each 
 regiment marched into the city it came 
 to a halt in front of the palace, where 
 the arms were deposited and the men 
 paroled. They found quarters in the 
 various churches, and were allowed the 
 freedom of the city inside the walls. 
 
 The courtesy of the officers and the 
 
THE FALL OF MANILA. 81 
 
 civility of the men were pleasantly notice- 
 able whenever they came in contact with 
 the Americans. They seemed glad that 
 the affair was over, and the following 1 day 
 business was in a great measure resumed 
 throughout the city. 
 
 The city, however, was practically 
 starved out. Not even a loaf of bread 
 was for sale, and the few stores whose 
 stock had not been entirely depleted were 
 closed through fear that the insurgents 
 might force an entrance to the city. That 
 night we suffered from the effects of our 
 own work in keeping supplies out of the 
 town. 
 
 As a rule, the enlisted men fared better 
 than the officers, for they were provided 
 with rations. A party of officers, including 
 a brigadier-general, dined at the Hotel 
 Oriental, their bill of fare consisting of 
 weak pea soup and sardines ; and there 
 were few, if any, who fared more sumptu- 
 ously. This state of affairs continued for 
 
82 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 several days, until the transports with their 
 supplies could be brought over from Cavite 
 and the stores moved up from camp. 
 
 Shortly before six o'clock, after the ar- 
 rival of the Oregon regiment, the Spanish 
 colors were hauled down and the American 
 flag was hoisted on the walls and saluted 
 by the guns from the fleet, while the 
 regimental band played the "Star-Spangled 
 Banner," the troops shouting themselves 
 hoarse. 
 
 The insurgent forces were gathered out- 
 side the American lines, endeavoring to 
 gain admission to the town; but strong 
 guards were posted, and General Agui- 
 naldo was given to understand that none 
 of his men would be allowed to enter with 
 arms. 
 
 Prior to the surrender the relations 
 between the Americans and insurgents 
 had apparently been friendly as against 
 the Spaniards ; but afterward the Ameri- 
 cans and Spaniards fraternized against the 
 
THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 83 
 
 Filipinos, who were greatly disgruntled at 
 the treatment they had received. They 
 had expected that the city would be turned 
 over to them, and that they 
 would be permitted to loot and 
 burn and kill with a free hand. 
 The Spaniards showed consid- 
 erable fear that a general mas- 
 sacre would be attempted by 
 the insurgents, and they openly 
 expressed a desire to unite with 
 the Americans against them. 
 
 Aguinaldo refused to allow 
 us to use the water- works, which 
 were in his possession, and at 
 one time it looked as if they would have to 
 be taken by force. After repeated prom- 
 ises and much parleying, the insurgents 
 yielded to a show of force and the water 
 was allowed to flow into the city, but for 
 over a week we were obliged to depend 
 entirely upon the rains for water. 
 
 Steps were at once taken to inaugurate 
 
 FOR PEACE. 
 
84 THE FALL OF MANILA. 
 
 a government of military occupancy. The 
 necessary officers were appointed, and a 
 proclamation was issued to the people of 
 the Philippines, setting forth the intention 
 of the United States government to protect 
 them. Three days after the surrender a 
 cablegram was received, announcing that 
 the peace protocol had been signed, and 
 that the President had issued a proclama- 
 tion directing a cessation of hostilities. 
 
 We pay the Manila veterans the highest 
 possible tribute of appreciation when we 
 measure the glory of their victory by the 
 extent of their accomplishment and their 
 discretion and valor, their courage and 
 magnanimity. 
 
 MAJ.-GEN. WESLEY MERRITT. 
 
 ACROSS THE PASIG. 
 
Life in Manila. 
 
 The three white men with whom I lived, 
 when a few years ago I was in the employ 
 of an American firm in Manila, shared with 
 me a large house, standing in the midst of 
 a most luxuriant garden, about two miles 
 up the right bank of the River Pasig, a 
 river which winds down from the Enchanted 
 Lake back among the hills, passes between 
 old and new Manila, and loses itself in 
 broad Manila Bay. 
 
 The ground floor of our house served 
 as a carriage-room and quarters for some 
 of the servants. Its upper floor was divided 
 into sleeping-rooms and a wide sitting- 
 room. 
 
 The structure was built with various 
 provisions against earthquakes ; for ex- 
 ample, several huge posts, like the masts 
 of a ship, ran from the roof down into 
 the ground, as supports; the walls were 
 
86 LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 covered with painted canvas, instead of 
 plaster, and the panes of the windows were 
 of oyster- shell, instead of glass. These win- 
 dows were framed in overlapping panels, 
 which could be pushed back into the wall, 
 thus turning the room into a sort of 
 veranda. When the windows were closed 
 in the daytime, the light coming through 
 them was very agreeable. 
 
 Our retinue consisted of about sixteen 
 native servants, including house-boys, 
 coachmen, grooms, gardeners and general 
 hangers-on. This sounds extravagant, but 
 each man received only eight Mexican 
 dollars, a month, out of which he clothed 
 and fed himself, and his family, if he 
 had one. 
 
 After we left for our offices in the morn- 
 ing, the boys had nothing to do until we 
 returned, except to dust the rooms and 
 keep the floors polished. Their hardest 
 duty was to provide the house with water, 
 which was brought every morning in a 
 
LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 87 
 
 THE ESCOLTA. 
 
 hogshead fastened to a handcart, from the 
 public fountain nearly a mile away. 
 
 It had to be carried laboriously up-stairs 
 in buckets, and emptied into an enormous 
 porcelain tank, 
 shaped like half an 
 egg-shell, which 
 stood in a back room 
 and contained the 
 household's daily 
 supply for washing, 
 cooking and drink- 
 ing ; that used as drinking water was 
 carefully boiled and filtered. 
 
 When I first went to Manila I had no 
 idea how precious water was, and on the 
 morning after my arrival I rose quite early, 
 eager for a bath. Now the usual way 
 of taking a bath in a Manila house is to 
 dip the water from the tank with a big 
 cocoanut-shell, and pour it over one's 
 body; but nobody had told me that, and 
 being delighted with the appearance of the 
 
88 LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 great tank filled with clear, sparkling 
 water, I soused into it, and was having a 
 splendid time, when one of the servants, 
 named Felipe, hearing suspicious noises, 
 came to investigate. 
 
 At the sight of me he threw up his 
 hands in horror and dismay, and chattered 
 at me in Spanish, of which I did not then 
 understand a word. Finding his protests 
 of no avail, he rushed away after an inter- 
 preter, and soon returned with one of my 
 messmates, who was very sleepy and much 
 bewildered, as Felipe's disjointed exclama- 
 tions had made him fear that something 
 dreadful had happened. 
 
 He gasped when he saw me, and then 
 explained the situation. " However," he 
 said, philosophically, "now that you are in, 
 you may as well stay there. You won't 
 get another bath like that while you are 
 here." And I didn't. 
 
 As for Felipe and the other boys, who 
 had to trudge after more water that 
 
LIFE IN MANILA. 89 
 
 August morning, I am not sure that they 
 ever forgave me. 
 
 The coachmen and grooms kept their 
 wives and families in the stable, where 
 they slept comfortably among the horses. 
 They cooked their meals over little bon- 
 fires in the stable yard, while their fat 
 brown babies tumbled and rolled all over 
 the place, forever getting in somebody's 
 way and being stepped upon. 
 
 Our household included also three or 
 four Chinese chow dogs, with thick orange- 
 colored fur and coal-black tongues ; and 
 Pedro, the house-snake, a small python, 
 which travelled about inside the canvas 
 walls and kept us free from rats and mice. 
 Pedro never came out, and we were not 
 disturbed at all by his nearness. 
 
 We slept on strips of matting, spread 
 over cane-seated couches, the legs of which 
 rested in bowls of water to prevent visits 
 from centipedes, tarantulas, white ants 
 and other tropical gentry, that cannot be 
 
90 LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 kept out of the houses. Wash-stands, side- 
 boards and refrigerators are protected in 
 the same way. The big white ant and 
 little red ant seem particularly fond of 
 tooth-powder, and not a vestige would be 
 left in the morning if a wash-stand rested 
 directly upon the floor. 
 
 Tiny little green and yellow lizards used 
 to dart about among the books on the 
 table, after the lamps were lighted, devour- 
 ing the insects which swarmed around the 
 lights. Occasionally one of these lizards 
 would drop from the ceiling, alighting with 
 a loud smack. 
 
 Our amusements were few and far 
 between. The burning heat from sunrise 
 to sunset prevented any form of outdoor 
 recreation except driving, and on Sundays 
 and holidays we found little to do except to 
 lie around in Japanese wrappers, and read 
 or watch the natives at their games. 
 
 One game that the children played 
 was much like prisoner's base. Another 
 
A STOREHOUSE. 
 
 LIFE IN MANILA. 91 
 
 consisted in keeping a big hollow ball, made 
 of bamboo strips, in the air, by kicking it 
 around a ring of barefooted players, who 
 stood several yards apart. The player who 
 missed it was evi- 
 dently out, and the 
 last one in was the 
 winner. They would 
 play this game in 
 the glaring sunlight by the hour, some of 
 them with remarkable skill. 
 
 Sometimes, late in the afternoon, I took 
 a short ride on my pony, either back 
 among the hills lying inland, or among 
 the scattered native villages surrounding 
 the town. On other days we drove across 
 the river to the Luneta or grand prom- 
 enade, to hear the band from the Spanish 
 garrison and to watch the people slowly 
 strolling up and down the broad path. 
 
 Sometimes I would cross the drawbridge 
 over the moat that surrounds the walls of 
 old Manila, and wander among the queer, 
 
92 LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 old-fashioned cannon which surmounted 
 the moss - grown fortifications. There I 
 would dream of the days when they defied 
 the Chinese and Malay pirates, and little 
 thought that they would one day be dis- 
 mantled by Dewey's terrible shells. 
 
 On such occasions I was always followed 
 at a little distance by a soldier or two, ready 
 to pounce upon me if I attempted to take 
 a photograph or even to make a sketch. 
 From this point I could see the white 
 walls of Cavite, with its arsenal and navy- 
 yard, glistening eight miles away along 
 the shore. 
 
 Directly across the river from the old 
 city stood the modern business quarter, 
 with its great hemp-presses and its hun- 
 dreds of Chinese coolies trotting up and 
 down, laden with bales of hemp and bags 
 of raw sugar, ready to be sent out to the 
 ships of all nations, lying at anchor a mile 
 from shore. 
 
 Through centuries of intercourse with 
 
LIFE IN MANILA. 93 
 
 the Malay and Chinese races, the natives 
 of Manila have lost all trace of their 
 original characteristics, if indeed they are 
 in any degree kin to the bands of Negritos, 
 who still exist in the mountains and forests 
 of northern Luzon. These are little black 
 men who are supposed to be aborigines 
 of the island. 
 
 The Manila natives of to-day are stal- 
 wart, muscular fellows, of a dark chocolate 
 color, with straight, scrubby hair and well- 
 shaped features. Their eyebrows have a 
 curious tendency to meet over the nose, 
 which gives many of them a sinister cast 
 of countenance. 
 
 The dress of the men in and around the 
 towns consists of a white bosom shirt, 
 sometimes lavishly embroidered, worn with 
 the skirts flapping outside a pair of white 
 linen trousers. Heelless slippers are their 
 usual foot-gear. If a hat is worn, it is 
 commonly some white man's discarded 
 derby. 
 
94 
 
 LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 They are an easy-going, indolent race, 
 useful as clerks and servants, but having 
 a strong dislike to manual labor. This 
 fact accounts in part for the enormous num- 
 ber of Chinese in Manila, 
 who are willing to perform 
 every kind of work at the 
 lowest wages. 
 
 The dress of the women 
 is more elaborate. It con- 
 sists of a brilliantly colored 
 skirt reaching to the ground, 
 and varying in texture ac- 
 cording to the means of the 
 wearer ; a short, black over- 
 skirt caught up at one side ; a white waist 
 with sleeves extending to the elbow ; and 
 sometimes an embroidered mantilla, folded 
 cornerwise, with the ends crossed on the 
 breast. The whole effect of this costume 
 is agreeable and becoming. 
 
 The Filipino lives in a hut built entirely 
 of bamboo, framework, floor and all, 
 
 LUZON GIRL. 
 
LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 95 
 
 which stands about two feet from the 
 ground on stout bamboo posts or legs, by 
 way of protection from floods and earth- 
 quakes. This hut is thatched all over with 
 the long, dried nipa leaves, whence the 
 name of nipa 
 huts. They bear 
 an uncanny re- 
 semblance to 
 huge, brown 
 bugs, and are so 
 inflammable that 
 the local insur- 
 
 A NIPA HUT. 
 
 ance companies 
 
 will not insure a 
 
 house if there is a nipa hut within forty 
 
 yards of it. 
 
 With a hut, a mango-tree and a fighting- 
 cock, the unambitious Filipino is perfectly 
 satisfied with life. If he owns a pig and a 
 few hens he is considered prosperous. If 
 his possessions include a rice-field, and a 
 water-buffalo to wallow through it once or 
 
96 
 
 LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 PLOWING A RICE-FIELD. 
 
 twice a year attached to a crooked stick by 
 way of a plow, he is a power in the com- 
 munity. 
 
 Often several families will own a rice- 
 field and a buffalo between them, as was 
 the case with certain 
 neighbors of mine, 
 whose buffalo, when 
 off duty at night, often 
 used to make a mud- 
 hole for himself 
 directly across the 
 
 entrance to my driveway, get into it, bury 
 himself, all but his head, and trip up my 
 pony when I drove out in the morning. 
 This always brought me profuse apologies 
 from the neighbors, emphasized with gifts 
 of fruit and eggs. 
 
 The Filipinos are a very cleanly race, 
 forever washing themselves, and the 
 women especially take great pride in their 
 hair, which is often allowed to hang loose 
 in a great black wavy mass, sometimes 
 
LIFE IN MANILA. 
 
 97 
 
 reaching to their heels. When done up, 
 it is combed straight back from the fore- 
 head into a big knot at the back of the 
 neck, and surmounted by a huge comb of 
 horn, or tortoise-shell, or silver. I do not 
 remember having seen any native, of 
 either sex, with the least sign of baldness, 
 and gray heads are very rare. 
 
 We have not obtained a perfect paradise 
 in taking Manila ; but there can be little 
 doubt that a period of businesslike Amer- 
 ican administration would vastly improve 
 the conditions of life there. 
 
 CHARLES B. HOWARD. 
 
 A RIVER BRANCH IN MANILA. 
 
Progress in the Philippines. 
 
 There never was a Philippine nation 
 only a collection of many tribes, speaking 
 different languages, and having little in 
 common except that they all belong to the 
 Malayan race. It is the Tagalogs, inhab- 
 iting portions of the island of Luzon, who 
 assumed the name Filipinos and resisted 
 the United States ; the other civilized 
 Filipinos remained neutral, except where 
 coerced by the Tagalogs. 
 
 There are Filipinos in the north of 
 Luzon who are old enemies of the Tag- 
 alogs, and some of them asked for arms 
 that they might fight Aguinaldo. 
 
 In the summer of 1899, the brother of 
 the Filipino President Lacson, of the Island 
 of Negros, went to Hongkong to buy 
 steamers to develop trade, and he was 
 reported as saying that the proposal of the 
 American commissioners concerning their 
 
PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 99 
 
 government was perfectly satisfactory, and 
 that " Negros is as loyal as New York." 
 
 The commissioners were five Americans 
 of undoubted intelligence and integrity, 
 appointed by the President of the United 
 States to make a most thorough and 
 impartial investigation of affairs in the 
 Philippines, and to recommend a form of 
 government for the islands. They re- 
 ported to the President November 2, 1899. 
 
 The commission found as a matter of 
 fact that no assurance was ever given by 
 any one in position of authority that the 
 United States would give the Filipinos 
 independence. This fact is fully substan- 
 tiated in a memorandum from Admiral 
 Dewey which he gave the commissioners. 
 
 The report declared that the first armed 
 collision between the American and the 
 Filipino armies was brought on by delib- 
 erate and often repeated attempts to pass 
 the American lines, and that Aguinaldo 
 wanted to attack the American troops 
 
100 
 
 PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 when they landed at Paranaque in the 
 summer of 1898, but was deterred by the 
 lack of arms. 
 
 War could not have been avoided by the 
 United States, and there was never a time 
 
 CITY GATE FROM THE BAY. 
 
 when the American forces could have been 
 withdrawn either with honor to ourselves 
 or with safety to the inhabitants. The duty 
 of the United States, in the opinion of 
 the commission, was first to suppress 
 the insurrection, and then to maintain 
 American sovereignty over the island. 
 
PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 101 
 
 We were assured from direct statements 
 made by conservative Filipinos that the 
 insurgents represented but a fraction of 
 their people ; that it was a duty to the 
 world that we retain the islands ; that the 
 people were not capable of self-govern- 
 ment, but by training and education may 
 be made capable. 
 
 The commission recommended a ter- 
 ritorial form of government, similar to that 
 framed by Thomas Jefferson for the terri- 
 torial organization of Louisiana. The 
 scheme provided for the appointment of 
 a governor and other high officials by 
 the President, but allowed the natives to 
 elect at least one branch of the legislature, 
 and to carry on the town and county 
 councils with the aid of a small number 
 of American commissioners. 
 
 The first self-government in the Philip- 
 pines was inaugurated at Bacolo, in the 
 island of Negros, November 6, 1899, amid 
 general rejoicing of the natives. The 
 
102 PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 elections had been held October 2d, and 
 about five thousand votes were cast. Suf- 
 frage was restricted by a property qual- 
 ification and the ability to read and write. 
 The system of government was devised 
 by General Otis and the Philippine Com- 
 mission. The ofBcers inaugurated exercise 
 local authority under the sovereignty of 
 the United States. 
 
 The natives of Negros asked first to be 
 allowed to establish their own government. 
 Permission was granted, and a battalion of 
 American troops was also placed at their 
 service as a protection against the warlike 
 mountain tribes of the interior. The ex- 
 periment, however, was not a success. 
 
 The natives soon asked for a second 
 battalion and then for a third. In a short 
 time they began to accuse their own 
 officials of dishonesty, and to complain of 
 other abuses. Finally they requested the 
 Americans to assume control. The com- 
 mission prepared a plan for a simpler form 
 
PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 103 
 
 of government, providing for native officers 
 but an American head, and this was suc- 
 cessfully established. 
 
 In several towns on the island of Luzon, 
 on the other hand, the experiment of 
 municipal government was tried by the 
 natives with gratifying results. But the 
 natives visited in succession the com- 
 missioner, the military representative and 
 their own priest, asking for whom they 
 were expected to vote. The idea that 
 they were to select their own candidates 
 and vote according to their own preferences 
 was beyond their comprehension. 
 
 Early in 1899 courts were re-established 
 in the Philippines, framed on the Spanish 
 system and using the Spanish language, 
 but subject to the authority of the United 
 States. The chief justice and most of his 
 associates are prominent Filipino lawyers. 
 Among them are Aguinaldo's chief adviser 
 in the early stages of the insurgent move- 
 ment, a member of Aguinaldo's first 
 
104 
 
 PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 cabinet, and the leader of the insurgent 
 movement at Iloilo. 
 
 As soon as law prevailed, that char- 
 acteristic American institution, the public 
 school, was set up in Manila. On the 
 
 BY COURTF.SY OF COLLIER'S WEEKLY 
 
 A SCHOOL IN MANILA. 
 
 Fourth of July in that city " America" was 
 sung" by Filipino, Spanish and Chinese 
 school children. American songs are very 
 attractive to these music-loving people. 
 
 The popularity of English among the 
 pupils of the different schools is increasing, 
 
PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 105 
 
 and it is with difficulty that the pupils can 
 be made to study Spanish. The school 
 children, talking with each other, say that 
 now the Philippines are a part of the 
 United States the language should be 
 English, and everybody should learn to 
 read and write it as soon as possible. 
 
 The pupils of the public schools are the 
 most loyal adherents of the Americans. 
 The "Salute to the Flag," originated by 
 The Youth's Companion some years ago, 
 is already a feature of the exercises in the 
 Manila schools, as in the United States. 
 Thus the children have gained an insight 
 into American ideas, and have interested 
 their parents in what they are learning. 
 
 On Washington's Birthday, 1900, the 
 thirty-six schoolhouses of Manila received 
 each a gift of an American flag from the 
 Lafayette Post, G. A. R., of New York City. 
 
 The schoolhouses were crowded with 
 natives, including teachers, pupils, parents 
 and friends, and many Americans came 
 
106 PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 also because of their interest in seeing 
 "Old Glory" rise and fall for the first time 
 on the Philippine breezes, over American 
 public schools. 
 
 In many schools, as the flag rose, the 
 children, rising to salute it, would break 
 forth in excellent singing in English of 
 the "Star-Spangled Banner" or "America." 
 Many English recitations were well ren- 
 dered at these exercises so fittingly prefaced 
 by the raising of the flag. 
 
 But the most interesting feature of the 
 day was that the natives, mestizos and 
 Spaniards, joined heartily in the ceremo- 
 nies, and seemed as pleased to see this 
 emblem of American protection raised on 
 high as did the Americans themselves. 
 
 The second distinct government to give 
 allegiance to the United States was that of 
 the Sulu Archipelago, in the extreme 
 southwestern part of the Philippines. The 
 sultan and his principal chiefs, called 
 Dattos, cordially welcomed the American 
 
PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 107 
 
 officers, and signed acceptance to all their 
 slight changes in government under the 
 Stars and Stripes. 
 
 Mindanao, the second largest island of 
 the Philippines, and Paragua, the third in 
 size, very soon after Sulu came willingly 
 
 RAILROAD STATION, MANILA. 
 
 under the authority of the United States. 
 The formal interview with the Sultan of 
 Mindanao was very interesting. He vis- 
 ited the American gunboat in his state 
 barge of fifty rowers, with his own flag and 
 gay streamers flying. He acceded to all 
 the terms proposed by the Americans, and 
 
108 PROGRESS IN THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 was generous in return. He asked for a 
 United States flag to replace his own on 
 his barge. It was gladly given to him, 
 and his return to land under the Stars and 
 Stripes, followed by his two hundred re- 
 tainers, formed a picturesque pageant. 
 
 Before the end of the year 1899 organ- 
 ized opposition to American rule in Luzon 
 was broken up, and its leader became a 
 fugitive ; local civil governments, with 
 courts and schools, were established in 
 large towns ; peaceful allegiance was re- 
 ceived of by far the larger part of all the 
 other islands of the Philippines. 
 
 By the month of April, 1900, the process 
 of pacification had so far advanced, and so 
 many ports had been opened to trade, that a 
 second Philippine Commission proceeded to 
 establish civil government in all the islands 
 upon the lines laid down by the former 
 commission. 
 
At the Pumping- Station. 
 
 The city of Manila is supplied with 
 fairly good water from the little river 
 Mariquina, which has its sources in the 
 mountains. The water has to be pumped 
 by steam-power into a reservoir, from 
 which it flows into the city conduit and 
 pipes. The pumping-station is six miles 
 due east from Manila, across the flat, wet 
 rice-fields, among the first low hills. 
 
 The station, which is a substantial struc- 
 ture, contains two large steam - boilers and 
 powerful cylinder pumps, which force the 
 water through large mains into the reser- 
 voir. Near the pumping-station stand 
 stone barracks, in which were quartered 
 a company of soldiers, to guard the plant. 
 
 So great an improvement in the public 
 health followed the introduction of Mari- 
 quina water that all the old wells and 
 cisterns were given up and fell into disuse, 
 
110 AT THE PUMPING -STATION. 
 
 and the city came to depend wholly on the 
 pumps and reservoir. 
 
 Such was the condition of affairs when 
 the Spanish surrendered Manila and the 
 Americans took possession. But when 
 Aguinaldo raised the standard of inde- 
 pendence, the pumping-station was within 
 the Filipino lines and the water-supply 
 completely at their mercy. 
 
 But although the Filipino chief could 
 have greatly embarrassed the American 
 forces in the city by cutting off the water- 
 supply, he refrained from doing so, prob- 
 ably on account of the distress which would 
 be caused to the thousands of his fellow- 
 countrymen who reside there. 
 
 A most painful state of uncertainty 
 prevailed, however ; and when the collision 
 with the insurgents took place, General 
 Otis at once made the water-works the 
 objective point of an attack. It was hoped 
 that by a rapid advance the insurgents 
 might be dislodged and driven away from 
 
AT THE PUMPING - STATION. Ill 
 
 the pumps before they had time to destroy 
 them. 
 
 The movement was executed with such 
 celerity and vim that after the first onset, 
 when for a few minutes there was sharp 
 fighting, the natives broke from cover and 
 fled whenever the charging hurrah of our 
 men arose. The hill near the pumping- 
 station was carried at five in the afternoon. 
 Less than five hundred yards away, in the 
 valley near the river, stood the power-house 
 with its high chimney. 
 
 The pumps had been working when the 
 forward movement began, but now as our 
 men mounted the hill, they saw that no 
 smoke or steam was rising, and that the 
 place looked deserted. Not only the 
 Filipino riflemen but the firemen had run 
 away. Both barracks and power - house 
 looked as solitary as a ruin. 
 
 I was one of the first to enter the place. 
 Dusk was falling. The station was silent 
 as a tomb. Shovels, poker-bars and fire- 
 
112 AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 
 
 rakes lay scattered about the concrete floor, 
 just as the firemen had thrown them down. 
 But the pumps were the first objects of our 
 attention. At first glance, nothing" seemed 
 to be wrong. 
 
 Smithson of our company was sounding 
 the big steam-pipes. "All right here!" he 
 sang out. 
 
 "They haven't blown up anything!" 
 Private Wilson exclaimed, opening the 
 furnace doors. 
 
 Lieutenant Green had struck a match 
 and was peering behind the pump cylin- 
 ders. "Humph! Here's a bad break!" 
 he muttered. "Cylinder head gone !" 
 
 "This one's off, too!" cried Corporal 
 Haines, who had been to the other pump. 
 "Both of them !" 
 
 "Both these are gone," observed Lieu- 
 tenant Green ; and about that time some 
 one else discovered that the "rockers" 
 were also missing. 
 
 "Well, well, they did the worst they 
 
AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 113 
 
 could in the time they had !" Sergeant 
 Whitmarsh exclaimed. 
 
 ''That's so," said Smithson. "If they 
 couldn't do the pumping themselves, they 
 were determined nobody else should." 
 
 "Probably lugged the cylinder heads off 
 with them," said Smithson. 
 
 "Don't you think it!" exclaimed the 
 sergeant. "Too heavy. They've thrown 
 them into the river, or into some well." 
 
 "If we cannot find them, there will be 
 no more pumping here very soon," ob- 
 served the lieutenant. "I don't believe 
 those cylinder heads and rockers can be 
 reproduced in Manila," and he went off 
 to report the condition of things to Colonel 
 Stotsenburg. 
 
 Pickets were thrown out and we camped 
 there at the pumping-station and barracks 
 that night. 
 
 The next morning, instead of advancing 
 across the river, Major Grove set the whole 
 force searching for the missing pump 
 
114 AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 
 
 gear. Squads of men waded up and down 
 the river, and even dived at the deep holes. 
 Every mud-hole was probed ; the bottom 
 of every well within half a mile was inves- 
 tigated. Squads also went hither and 
 thither, with eyes on the ground, to see if 
 any holes had been dug. 
 
 At about nine o'clock six army engineers 
 arrived from Manila, and made a technical 
 report of the damage to the plant ; they 
 also took exact measurements of the cylin- 
 ders, rods, bolts, and so forth, with a view 
 to having new heads cast, if possible, at the 
 foundry and arsenal at Cavite. Whether 
 this could be done there, was a matter of 
 some doubt ; and it seemed certain, at best, 
 that the city must go thirsty for a time. 
 
 Such was the state of affairs when Guy 
 Hays came to the pump-house and began 
 to look around. After examining the 
 engines and cylinders, he strolled into the 
 coal-shed which opens out of the boiler- 
 room. Several others were about the place 
 
AT THE PUMPING - STATION. US 
 
 at the time. In one corner of the coal-shed 
 there was a heap of six or seven tons of 
 coal, and in the middle of the shed another 
 heap of about the same size. The floor of 
 the shed was of hard earth. 
 
 "You won't find those heads there, 
 Guy," Smithson said to him, jocosely. 
 
 Hays ran his eye around, first over the 
 coal in the corner, and then over the heap 
 in the centre. Something in this seemed to 
 attract his attention. He stepped forward 
 and looked at it more attentively. 
 
 "Well, I don't know," he replied, care- 
 lessly. "Got a shovel handy?" 
 
 There were a number of coal-shovels 
 standing just inside the boiler-room door. 
 Whitmarsh handed one to Hays, who 
 scraped away the coal for two or three feet 
 back from the edge of the heap, then stuck 
 the shovel down into the ground there. 
 
 "Something seems to have been buried 
 here, boys," he said. "Fetch a cleaning- 
 bar and punch down here with it." 
 
116 
 
 AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 
 
 Smithson brought one, and Hays thrust 
 it down into the soft spot. They prodded 
 
 " LOOKED LIKE A NEWLY FILLED GRAVE. 
 
 there for some moments. At a depth of 
 two feet or more in the soft place, the 
 point of the bar struck something hard. 
 
AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 117 
 
 Smithson now ran to fetch another shovel. 
 He and Hays cleared away the coal and 
 exposed what looked like a newly filled 
 grave, about six feet long by three or four 
 wide. 
 
 ''Maybe it's a Filipino," the sergeant 
 remarked. 
 
 "He was a hard boy, then," said Hays. 
 "What I hit with the bar was like iron." 
 
 They rapidly threw out the dirt with 
 shovels, and Hays soon struck something 
 that grated like iron, and when the earth 
 was scraped off, seemed to be white. 
 Whitmarsh then thrust down a bar at one 
 side and pried up a large circular disk. 
 It was one of the missing cylinder heads ! 
 
 As many as thirty of the men had now 
 come around, and when Hays threw the 
 head out on the floor, such a cheer rose as 
 soon brought every man from the barracks 
 and drew in the search-parties. 
 
 The lost heads were all down there in 
 the hole, and the rockers had been laid 
 
118 AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 
 
 beside them. Nothing was injured or 
 broken, and the Filipino pumpmen had 
 coated everything neatly with white lead 
 before burying it, so that the steel would 
 not rust while lying in the earth. 
 
 "It looks as if the rascals thought that 
 they should come back and want to use 
 the pumps," Major Grove remarked, as 
 Hays laid the four white heads in a row on 
 the floor. The bolts were in the heads, 
 and the nuts and washers had been screwed 
 back on the ends of the bolts. 
 
 Some of the Nebraska men, who had 
 been wading in the river, exploring 
 wells and searching the whole country 
 roundabout, felt not a little chagrin that 
 the missing parts had been found so near 
 at hand. 
 
 It seems that the native pumpmen had 
 not time to look very long for a hiding- 
 place after the alarm of our attack reached 
 them. They hid the parts in the first 
 place that suggested itself, so near the 
 
AT THE PUMPING - STATION. 119 
 
 pumps that we had not thought of look- 
 ing there. 
 
 Hays afterward told us that what drew 
 his attention particularly to that heap of 
 coal was a little lump of fresh-looking 
 earth no larger than a hen's egg which lay 
 between two lumps of coal. 
 
 A signal message was at once sent after 
 the engineers, and during the afternoon 
 three of them returned to the station. By 
 six that evening the plant was working 
 again. 
 
 GEORGE HOWE. 
 
 THE PUMPING - STATION. 
 
My First Night in Manila. 
 
 The house in which I first went to live 
 in Manila was a typical Spanish structure, 
 built around an open courtyard, with strong 
 walls and grated windows. The roof over 
 the wider front portion of it was of corru- 
 gated iron, as is common here on account 
 of earthquakes. Having the whole house 
 to choose from I selected two rooms on 
 the second floor, fronting the street. 
 
 The first night after taking possession 
 I spent down at Cavite with some friends ; 
 but my servant remained and availed him- 
 self of my absence to smuggle into the 
 yard two tough-looking game-cocks of his 
 own ; for all these natives have a passion 
 for cock-fighting. 
 
 The old house had also still other den- 
 izens which I did not learn about till the 
 first night that I actually passed there. 
 Any one living in Manila, even a newcomer 
 
MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 121 
 
 of a few weeks' experience in a dwelling- 
 house there, would have understood matters 
 better than I did. 
 
 Something about the queer, musty old 
 place gave me a singular sensation of 
 lonesomeness for awhile. Then I heard 
 Florencio, my servant, coming up the stairs 
 from the yard. He brought in drinking- 
 water, opened my bed, and laid a pair of 
 slippers beside it. As yet he and I had 
 much difficulty in understanding each 
 other. He spoke Tagalog and a little 
 Spanish ; I still less Spanish and no Taga- 
 log. I thought he appeared uneasy, and 
 scarcely wondered at it, as the house was 
 so silent and deserted. I asked him if he 
 were afraid. 
 
 "Ah, nao, sefior," he replied, with a 
 doubtful look around, but added something 
 about picaros, and then explained, in many 
 long sentences, none of which I more 
 than half comprehended, that native black 
 burglars often crept in, naked, having their 
 
122 MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 
 
 bodies smeared with fat so that they could 
 not be seized or held. 
 
 I had a Krag-Jorgensen carbine ; but 
 Florencio brought in two old rusted lances 
 which he had found below, such as had 
 sometimes been used by Spanish cavalry. 
 With an odd smile, he stood up one of 
 these doughty weapons beside my bed, inti- 
 mating that he should keep the other in 
 the back room which he occupied on the 
 first floor. I laughed at him ; yet in the 
 disturbed condition of the city at that time 
 precautions were not entirely out oj place. 
 
 After he had said buenas noches, and I 
 had listened to his shuffling feet descending 
 the stairs, I read for a while, and then went 
 to bed. The night was not uncomfortably 
 hot. I blew out the feeble lamp and fell 
 asleep at once. 
 
 A scraping sound soon waked me ; a 
 rat was dragging one of my shoes across 
 the tiled floor. When I struck a match, 
 the big gray fellow dropped the shoe and 
 
MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 123 
 
 scurried into a corner, where I could see 
 his small eyes reflecting the light. 
 
 I put my shoes and socks on my bed, 
 and again fell asleep ; but not for long. 
 Frightful squealings broke out. A bat- 
 talion of charging Filipinos could hardly 
 have made a sharper uproar, and it was 
 overhead! "Something larger than rats 
 this time," I thought, starting up, and 
 once more lighted my lamp. 
 
 The ceilings of these old Spanish houses 
 usually show the beams and boards. A 
 heavy object was rolling and tumbling in 
 the loft above the ceiling of my room, and 
 I could hear an occasional clang against 
 the iron roof above it. Then a strange, 
 grating, sliding noise succeeded, followed 
 immediately by another frightful outburst 
 of screams ; then bump-thump-plump all 
 over the loft ! 
 
 Considerably excited, I jumped up, and 
 seizing the old lance, struck and prod- 
 ded the ceiling-boards vigorously. These 
 
TUMBLING ABOUT THE ROOM. 
 
MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 125 
 
 proved not to be nailed or fastened in any 
 way ; they turned over easily. Dirt, dust 
 and a shower of rubbish fell. But my 
 demonstration had the effect of quieting 
 the noise for the time being. 
 
 From the sounds I was sure that a man 
 or some large animal, as well as rats, must 
 be in the loft. Mounting a chair, with the 
 lance in one hand, I held up the lamp. 
 As I raised the light there was a sudden 
 commotion above, a clatter of the over- 
 turned boards, and there slid down, not a 
 yard from my face, fully a fathom's length 
 of the ugliest scaly serpent that I ever set 
 my eyes on ! 
 
 I yelled outright, purely from terror, and 
 jumped down from the chair. The monster 
 appeared to be coming down tail first. 
 The lamp chimney fell to the floor and 
 broke, by no means improving the feeble 
 light. The snake was still sliding down. 
 Apparently there were yards of it behind ! 
 
 Its tail now nearly touched the floor. 
 
126 MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 
 
 Putting down the flaring lamp, I snatched 
 my carbine and literally blew a hole 
 through the reptile's body. It fell, bleed- 
 ing and thrashing, on the tiles. 
 
 But the noise in the loft had increased. 
 Glancing up, I saw the tail of another 
 python whipping down as he ran over the 
 beams. A second shot sent it executing 
 even wilder gyrations. 
 
 At length, catching sight of its body 
 gliding across one of the wide cracks I had 
 made by overturning the boards, I fired 
 and brought it down through the hole. 
 
 Both snakes, the smaller of which was 
 not less than nine feet long, were now 
 tumbling about the room, and to escape 
 them I leaped upon the bed, for my feet 
 were bare. 
 
 At that moment there came a hasty 
 knocking at the door, with Florencio crying 
 in alarmed accents, " Senor ! Senor ! Que 
 hay?" (What is it?) 
 
 He had naturally concluded that a battle 
 
MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 127 
 
 with robbers was raging. It is good evi- 
 dence of his fidelity that he had seized his 
 lance and come to my assistance. 
 
 With an eye to the writhing serpents, 
 I got down, threw the door open, and 
 jumped hastily back on the bed. Florencio, 
 weapon in hand, peered in. He was ashen 
 with terror. But as his eyes took in the 
 situation, the dying serpents and the 
 damaged ceiling, his face regained its 
 wonted expression. Nay, he even smiled! 
 
 Then, marking my excitement, he began 
 a reassuring discourse, of which I under- 
 stood scarcely a word. Quite fearlessly, 
 as it seemed to me, he seized the snakes 
 by the tail, and hauling them out on the 
 gallery, threw them down into the yard. 
 Then he began to tidy up the room, all the 
 while repeating something about culebras 
 de casa (house snakes), and that el senor 
 (the gentleman) no conoce (did not know). 
 
 It was not until the next day that I came 
 fairly to understand that I had foolishly 
 
128 MY FIRST NIGHT IN MANILA. 
 
 killed two harmless boas which had filled 
 the necessary office of rat-catchers in the 
 old house for years, and whose place would 
 have to be filled by others of their species 
 if we expected to live there. 
 
 I then learned that most old houses at 
 Manila have their house serpents, which 
 live in the lofts and attics above the ceil- 
 ings, rarely or never giving the people any 
 trouble. These snakes, in fact, are sold 
 by native pedlers on the street. 
 
 Not many days later, snake pedlers, 
 acting from some hint of Florencio's prob- 
 ably, came to the house door, each bearing 
 a bamboo pole over his shoulder, with a 
 boa coiled around it. The reptiles were 
 tied by the neck to the poles, to prevent 
 them from escaping. It cost me two 
 dollars to make good the slaughter which 
 my inexperience had occasioned. 
 
 C. A. STEPHENS. 
 
MID-OCEAN AMERICA. 
 
Hawaii and its Accession. 
 
 A hundred years ago the Hawaiian 
 Islands were densely populated by different 
 tribes of savages, who often made war upon 
 each other. 
 
 Then the chief of a strong tribe on the 
 island of Hawaii, after a long series of con- 
 quests, united the whole group under one 
 government and proclaimed himself king. 
 
 This first king was Kamehameha the 
 Great, who is honored by a statue in front 
 of the government building at Honolulu. 
 
 In his reign Christian missionaries began 
 their labors among the Hawaiians, and 
 under the rule of his successors, schools 
 and churches were established throughout 
 all the islands. 
 
 American and European trade devel- 
 oped, and civilization progressed so rapidly 
 that when a republic was proclaimed in 
 1893, Hawaii, although so small, was 
 
132 
 
 HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 
 
 recognized as one of the independent 
 
 nations of the world. 
 
 The area of the whole eight islands is 
 
 but little larger than the State of Connecti- 
 cut, and the pop- 
 ulation is a little 
 over one hundred 
 thousand, of which 
 one-fifth is in the 
 city of Honolulu. 
 The harbor of 
 Honolulu is one of 
 the prettiest in the 
 world. It is not 
 large, but it is safe 
 in any weather, 
 and its location at 
 the cross-roads of 
 the Pacific makes 
 it very valuable to 
 commerce. 
 Honolulu grew very rapidly under the 
 
 administration of King Kalakaua, who 
 
 STATUE OF KAMEHAMEHA. 
 
HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 133 
 
 encouraged modern improvements. The 
 business portion is built of stone and brick, 
 and has every appearance of a progressive 
 American city. 
 
 The dwelling-houses are built of wood, 
 and are surrounded by extensive gardens 
 
 COTTAGE HIDDEN IN FOLIAGE. 
 
 of tropical trees and flowers. Even the 
 poor people live in little wooden cottages 
 almost hidden in profuse foliage. The 
 native grass hut still serves a good purpose 
 throughout all the islands, but it is rapidly 
 
134 HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 
 
 disappearing before the march of modern 
 improvements, which are utilizing the 
 riches of soil and climate. 
 
 The largest sugar plantations in the 
 world are located in our new territory. 
 The most modern methods of railway, 
 
 NATIVE GRASS HUT. 
 
 steam and electricity are used. Artesian 
 wells supply any possible lack of rain, and 
 everything known to science is employed 
 to secure profitable results every year. 
 
 Coffee plantations are increasing every 
 year, and Hawaiian coffee is becoming 
 known as equal to any in the world. With 
 
HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 135 
 
 the advent of Chinese laborers, extensive 
 swamps have been turned into profitable 
 rice-fields. On the hillsides, where tillage 
 would be inconvenient, immense herds of 
 cattle and swine may feed. Nearly all the 
 large enterprises are American. 
 
 The native Kanaka and some foreigners 
 get a marvellously easy living out of small 
 patches of ground where they raise taro, 
 bananas, cocoanuts, and whatever of every 
 kind of vegetable they wish. Home is a 
 paradise to the native, who revels in the 
 ever abundance of flowers. 
 
 Wise American statesmen carefully ob- 
 served the increasing products of the 
 Hawaiian group, and the corresponding 
 increase of trade with the United States ; 
 the little kingdom had granted us the only 
 American coaling station between San 
 Francisco and Yokohama; so when the 
 change of government came, no prudent 
 statesman could endure the thought of 
 European supremacy over those islands. 
 
136 
 
 HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 
 
 In the closing days of President Harri- 
 son's administration, a treaty was submitted 
 to the Senate, providing for the annexation 
 of the Hawaiian Islands, which had just 
 
 MAP OF HAWAII. 
 
 become a republic. The treaty did not 
 reach a vote in the Senate, and was with- 
 drawn by President Cleveland soon after he 
 came into office. A new treaty, closely 
 resembling the earlier one, was negotiated, 
 and submitted to the Senate by President 
 McKinley. 
 
 Under the treaty, the government of the 
 
HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 137 
 
 Hawaiian Islands offered to the United 
 States all rights of sovereignty over the 
 islands if the United States would assume 
 the public debt of Hawaii, to an amount 
 not to exceed four million dollars. 
 
 The Senate of Hawaii promptly ratified 
 the treaty providing for the annexation of 
 the islands to the United States. The 
 action was taken at a special session by 
 a unanimous vote. The Senate of the 
 United States did not vote upon this treaty, 
 but took another form of legislation. 
 
 The President, July 7, 1898, signed reso- 
 lutions providing for the annexation of the 
 Hawaiian Islands, which had previously 
 passed both Houses of Congress. The 
 President was given power to provide for 
 the government of the islands until Con- 
 gress should enact laws for that purpose. 
 He appointed five commissioners, including 
 President Dole and a judge of the Hawaiian 
 Supreme Court, to recommend to Con- 
 gress suitable legislation for the island. 
 
138 HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 
 
 President Sanford B. Dole was at the 
 head of the provisional government which 
 succeeded the deposed Queen Liliuokalani, 
 in January, 1893, and was President of the 
 Hawaiian Republic from the 
 time it was proclaimed, July 4, 
 1894, till Hawaii became a 
 territory of the United States. 
 It was a new thing which 
 this commission had to do. 
 GOVERNOR DOLE. \Ye had never before had 
 to frame a government for territory two 
 thousand miles away. But the Constitution 
 gives Congress full power, and some of the 
 principles hitherto applied in the govern- 
 ment of territories are adapted to Hawaii. 
 
 A bill establishing a territorial govern- 
 ment in Hawaii became a law by the 
 signature of the President, April 30, 1900. 
 The form of government closely resem- 
 bles that of existing territories, including 
 a governor and other executive officers, 
 a legislature of two branches, and a 
 
HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 
 
 139 
 
 judiciary consisting of a supreme court, 
 circuit court and inferior courts. 
 
 It provides that Hawaii shall be repre- 
 sented in Congress by a delegate who shall 
 have a seat in the House of Representatives, 
 
 EXECUTIVE MANSION, HONOLULU. 
 
 with a right to debate, but not a vote. 
 The delegate to Congress will be chosen 
 at an election of the people. 
 
 The tariff laws of the United States are 
 extended over the islands, so they have the 
 same free trade with the states that all 
 other states and territories of the Union 
 enjoy, and the same revenues on imports 
 
140 HAWAII AND ITS ACCESSION. 
 
 from foreign countries. The Territory of 
 Hawaii is specifically made a customs 
 district of the United States, with ports of 
 entry at Honolulu, Hilo, Mahukona and 
 Kahului. 
 
 The bill establishes an educational qual- 
 ification for the suffrage, and gives the 
 appointment of the supreme and circuit 
 courts to the President. For the first 
 governor of the Territory of Hawaii, the 
 President appointed Mr. Dole, who had 
 already proved his ability and devotion to 
 Hawaiian welfare. 
 
 The new government will probably have 
 to struggle for years with the adjustment 
 of the United States laws concerning 
 Asiatic laborers. While unlimited immi- 
 gration would threaten the civilization of 
 the islands, it is true that Asiatic labor will 
 continue an important factor in the prod- 
 ucts of the great sugar, rice and coffee 
 plantations of the Hawaiian Territory. 
 
The Hawaiian Volcanoes. 
 
 With the annexation of the Hawaiian 
 Islands, we brought under our dominion 
 the two most wonderful volcanoes in the 
 world, Mauna Loa and Kilauea. These 
 two volcanoes lie near together on Hawaii, 
 the largest island of the group. 
 
 Mauna Loa is nearly fourteen thousand 
 feet above the level of the sea. A great 
 group of craters opens on the very summit, 
 and in their centre lies the vast primitive 
 crater, two thousand yards wide and one 
 thousand feet deep. 
 
 The great lava streams are very seldom 
 discharged from the very rim of Mauna Loa, 
 but the molten lava mostly escapes from 
 fissures made far below, on the side of 
 the mountain. Advices from Honolulu 
 told that in the late great eruption the city, 
 although two hundred miles distant, was 
 enveloped in smoke from, the volcano. 
 
142 
 
 THE HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES. 
 
 The town of Hilo, on the coast east of 
 Mauna Loa, has been several times men- 
 aced by streams of lava from the volcano. 
 What one of these streams is like is thus 
 told by a writer at Honolulu : 
 
 LAVA FLOW. 
 
 " I spent a night at the end of a glossy 
 black river of humpy rock, over half a mile 
 wide, sluggishly eating its way through a 
 dense and lofty forest. Out of its irregular, 
 billowy front line of black tongues of rock 
 among the trees, fresh red tongues of 
 molten rock were here and there pushing 
 
THE HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES. 143 
 
 forward, wrapping in flame the lofty trees 
 and broad ferns. 
 
 " One broad tongue slowly crept down a 
 brook channel, licking up the water pools 
 with loud explosions. In half an hour we 
 could step across the congealed lava, 
 although it bent like ice under the weight. 
 We boiled our coffee on the hot, rounded 
 ends of a tongue, as on a stove. When 
 our breakfast was finished, the rock opened 
 and emitted a fresh stream. 
 
 "It ran sluggishly like pitch. It was 
 forty miles from its source, whence it had 
 come through a few covered tunnels, 
 where it ran swiftly, near the end ramify- 
 ing into a multitude of streamlets. The 
 general rate of advance averaged perhaps 
 one hundred feet a day. Much of the lava 
 was expended in piling up behind to an 
 average depth of ten feet or more. 
 
 "The whole formed a cruel monster, 
 slowly creeping toward its prey, the beau- 
 tiful town on the bay. It was a long agony 
 
144 THE HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES. 
 
 for the people, as month after month the 
 terrible fire drew nearer, until, after thirteen 
 months of fears and prayers, it suddenly 
 ceased only six miles away. Again in 
 1 88 1 the terror was repeated with a swifter 
 stream and longer flow, which almost 
 grazed the town." 
 
 In 1868 a fiery stream forced its way to 
 the surface through the side of Kilauea, 
 and after flowing sixty miles to the south- 
 west, poured in a flaming cataract over the 
 cliffs into the sea, where it formed a great 
 pyramid of lava. It was estimated that 
 fifteen billions of cubic feet were discharged 
 by the volcano on that occasion. 
 
 In 1 88 1 the amount of lava flowing was 
 so great that it continued in motion for 
 nine months before it had cooled enough 
 to stop the onward march of death. 
 
 Kilauea rises but four thousand feet 
 above the sea, but its crater is a great 
 circular chasm nine miles around, and its 
 centre is a fearful mass of boiling, steaming 
 
THE HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES. 145 
 
 lava. This is the crater, and the only one, 
 that is so often visited by tourists and 
 scientific men, for it is not only the most 
 noteworthy volcano in the world, but may 
 be examined with great convenience. 
 
 r; ; 
 
 TROPICAL REGION NEAR HILO. 
 
 Stages run by an easy road about thirty 
 miles from Hilo. For the greater part of 
 the distance the journey is through the 
 most beautiful tropical regions, abounding 
 in luxuriant vegetation growing on the 
 decomposed lava of past ages. The road 
 
146 THE HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES. 
 
 ends on the barren lava in the most 
 desolate and dreary region imaginable. 
 
 At a safe and convenient distance from 
 the crater a hotel is located, where visitors 
 may rest and examine the crater at leisure. 
 In ordinary times this large crater contains 
 
 LIFELESS LAVA. 
 
 a sea of molten lava, boiling red and almost 
 white-hot in the interior, and rolling toward 
 the edge or bank. As the lava moves 
 toward the shore it cools, darkens and 
 stiffens. Other masses boil over it, break 
 and bury it to melt and boil up again. 
 
 All around the crater are masses of black 
 lifeless lava, with here and there fissures 
 emitting deadly sulphurous gases. A 
 guide is always needed to guard visitors 
 against dangerous places. There are many 
 
THE HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES. 147 
 
 openings to which ladies and gentlemen 
 can go with perfect safety, into which one 
 may thrust the end of his walking-stick and 
 pull it out ablaze. 
 
 It is a peculiarity of the Hawaiian volcano 
 that it has always crusted lava around its 
 crater, and never a cone of cinders, like 
 Vesuvius or other well-known volcanoes. 
 
 It is interesting to note that all the 
 islands of the Hawaiian group are volcanic 
 in origin. Each has ope or more extinct 
 volcanoes. In geological history the island 
 farthest west is the oldest, and Hawaii is 
 the youngest island. It naturally follows 
 that the volcanoes of Hawaii should be the 
 survivors. 
 
 The native Hawaiians supposed the 
 crater of Kilauea to be the abode of their 
 destructive goddess, Pele. Many an inno- 
 cent little pig or chicken has been thrown 
 into the boiling fire to appease Pele's 
 wrath, that she might turn aside a threaten- 
 ing calamity. j. E . CHAMBERLIN. 
 
Poi- Making in Hawaii. 
 
 What maize was to the American Indian, 
 what rice is to the Chinaman, poi was and 
 still is to the Hawaiian. It is the national 
 dish, the one distinctive article of food that 
 marks off the island cooking from all others. 
 
 Poi is not only a most healthful and 
 nutritious food, but one that commends 
 itself to the civilized palate. 
 
 The taro plant seems to have been 
 derived originally from India, whence it 
 was widely diffused. It grows freely along 
 the muddy banks of streams and in wet 
 places all over the islands at low altitudes. 
 
 The abundant rainfall in some portions 
 of the island of Hawaii, especially about 
 Hilo, makes it possible to cultivate taro on 
 the uplands, and its broad, arrow-head- 
 shaped leaves of dark green are a familiar 
 sight around most of the native houses. 
 
 A patch of taro, after being planted, 
 
POI-MAKING IN HAWAII. 
 
 149 
 
 requires a year or more to come to 
 maturity. The plants require little care 
 or cultivation during this long period, and 
 once ready for digging, the crop is a per- 
 petual one, for the native plants as he digs. 
 It is necessary only to cut off the tops of 
 
 TARO AND PO1 DISHES. 
 
 the tubers and insert them into the mucky 
 soil, where they soon take root and flourish. 
 
 The amount of food supplied by a fair- 
 sized taro patch is prodigious. Probably 
 a quarter of an acre of thrifty taro will feed 
 a good-sized family. 
 
 The leaves when young are tender and 
 succulent, and when boiled make most 
 
150 POI-MAKING IN HAWAII. 
 
 delicious greens. These are known to 
 the natives as luau, and this name came 
 to be applied also to a native feast. To 
 Europeans it now signifies almost any 
 merrymaking on the part of the natives. 
 
 But it is the root, or more properly the 
 tuber, of the taro plant that is most highly 
 prized. When taken from the ground this 
 is of a dark brown color and shaped like a 
 beet, but larger. 
 
 While in the raw state, taro is entirely 
 too acrid for the palate of any animal, save 
 the hog, and it is by no means relished even 
 by piggy. Thorough cooking, however, 
 destroys the acrid principle. 
 
 Baked taro root is most toothsome, and 
 in general character is much like the sweet 
 potato. Baked in the shape of cakes, with 
 a nice brown crust, it appeals to the taste 
 even of the most epicurean ; but it is in the 
 shape of poi that it is most acceptable to 
 the natives. 
 
 The following is the ancient way of 
 
POI-MAKING IN HAWAII. 151 
 
 making the staple article : After being 
 well washed, the tubers are placed in an 
 oblong pit in the ground, in which a goodly 
 number of stones have been heated very 
 hot. Tubers and stones well mingled 
 together are then covered with a thick 
 layer of broad, green leaves, as of the 
 banana, or of the taro. Water is then 
 poured over all to insure plenty of steam, 
 and the whole is covered with earth. 
 After steaming several hours, the roots are 
 soft and ready for pounding, the skin 
 having first been scraped off. 
 
 So far the women may have done the 
 work. Now it is the men's turn. 
 
 The poi board is about four feet long 
 and two feet broad, slightly hollowed out, 
 rounded at the ends, and may be likened 
 to a huge platter. Usually it is made of 
 koa wood, which is much like mahogany 
 in hardness and durability, and something 
 like it in color. 
 
 The poi pestle is made from a bit of 
 
152 
 
 POI-MAKING IN HAWAII. 
 
 solid, hard-grained basalt rock, carefully 
 selected, and worked into the shape of a 
 short, broad pestle which weighs several 
 pounds. 
 
 Seating himself on the ground, with the 
 board between his outstretched legs so as 
 
 MAKING POI. 
 
 to steady it, the Hawaiian swings the pestle 
 well behind the head, often with both 
 hands, and brings it heavily down upon one 
 of the tubers, which is soon reduced to a 
 pulpy, dough-like mass. 
 
 Other roots are then added, and the 
 
POT-MAKING IN HAWAII. 153 
 
 mass under the stone soon grows larger 
 and the pile of tubers as steadily dimin- 
 ishes. 
 
 Poi is sticky stuff, and the stone has to 
 be dipped frequently into water while the 
 dough is continually patted with wetted 
 hands, and lifted from the board to prevent 
 it from sticking. 
 
 Poi is well-made when the dough is of 
 an even consistency throughout, and is free 
 from lumps. This means that it must be 
 steadily pounded for an hour or two. The 
 dough is then firm and stiff; and it is in 
 this condition that it is sold for consump- 
 tion. 
 
 Poi is ready to be eaten after it is thinned 
 with water to the consistency of good 
 paste; but it is not much esteemed till 
 after it has stood for at least twenty-four 
 hours or more, when it begins to ferment 
 and sour. It gets more and more palatable 
 for several days, the slight acidity adding 
 much to its flavor. Poi is also thought to 
 
154 POI-MAKING IN HAWAII. 
 
 be more easily digested in the fermented 
 state. 
 
 Unappreciative Europeans, not to the 
 manner trained, are apt to describe poi as 
 smelling and tasting like billstickers' paste. 
 It may be so. If true, it only proves, not 
 that poi is bad, but that we have hitherto 
 overlooked a delicious article of food in 
 billstickers' paste. 
 
 When it comes to the eating of the poi, 
 there are several methods. The one that 
 finds favor with most Europeans is to eat 
 it with a fork or a spoon, but such is not 
 the Hawaiian method. The native early 
 discovered that the first two fingers of the 
 right hand were made to eat poi with, and 
 the primitive way is still good enough for 
 the modern Hawaiian. 
 
 The two fingers are dipped into the 
 sticky mess to just below the first joint, 
 and withdrawn with a neat little flourish 
 which wraps the paste nicely around 
 them. If the fingers are thrust into the 
 
POI-MAKING IN HAWAII. 155 
 
 mouth and withdrawn properly, the poi is 
 all left behind. 
 
 When a native family is at dinner, the 
 poi pot is the centre dish. Into it are 
 dipped in turn the fingers of each member 
 of the family, from the oldest to the 
 youngest. 
 
 Taro poi is the real and only accepted 
 poi among the Hawaiians, but breadfruit 
 treated in the same manner makes an 
 equally nice food, and by some it is even 
 more highly esteemed. 
 
 Breadfruit - trees are not overabundant 
 in the Hawaiian Islands, nor, I am told, 
 are they so large or so prolific of their 
 fine fruit as in the southern islands, where 
 the poi is mostly made from breadfruit. 
 
 So wedded to their poi are the Hawaiians 
 that when they can get neither taro nor 
 breadfruit, I have seen them make a sort of 
 
 poi from flour. 
 
 PROF. H. W. HENSHAW. 
 
The Samoan Islands. 
 
 Tutuila, the latest acquisition of the 
 United States, is one of the three most 
 important of the Samoan Islands, which 
 number nine, besides several uninhabitable 
 rocky islets. These islands were little 
 known until 1830, when native teachers 
 from the Society Islands first landed. 
 
 On account of the numerous canoes 
 which were seen, and the great dexterity 
 of the natives in paddling them through 
 the surf, the islands were called the Nav- 
 igators Islands, but Samoa is the native 
 name for the group. 
 
 As approached from the water, the 
 islands are very beautiful. They rise up 
 by gradual ascent inland to the height of 
 four thousand or five thousand feet. The 
 hills are clothed with abundant vegetation 
 to the very summit, an effect of rich green 
 to which the spreading foliage of the 
 
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 157 
 
 breadfruit and picturesque stateliness of 
 the cocoanut-trees largely contribute. 
 
 In addition to these features, picture to 
 yourself villages situated at the foot of the 
 hills near the shore, and canoes full of 
 natives navigating these waters, or steering 
 skilfully through the surf, and you will have 
 
 rHE SHORE. 
 
 a pretty good general idea of the islands as 
 seen by the first visitors in the days of 
 heathen Samoa. 
 
 The natives are not negroes, but are 
 probably descended from the same stock 
 as the people of the Malayan peninsula, 
 some of whom, in remote times, may have 
 
158 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 gradually drifted to these far-away islands. 
 They are of a bright copper color, have 
 good features and black hair. Many of the 
 women are very pretty and graceful, and 
 have fine, regular white teeth. 
 
 Their language is a very soft and liquid 
 one. Not counting letters added from the 
 English, it has only fourteen letters, five of 
 which are vowels. A curious thing about 
 their language is that they used to have 
 a special dialect of respect for chiefs and 
 strangers, which might not be used in 
 addressing any one else, and which it 
 was an insult to forget to use to the right 
 parties. 
 
 The Samoans were always very clean- 
 ly of person, bathing very frequently. 
 Mothers would take their infant children 
 into the water on their backs, and little 
 mites of three or four years of age would 
 paddle about in the water without the 
 slightest fear. The result has been that, 
 to this day, the natives, both men and 
 
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 159 
 
 women, are very expert in the water, and 
 can swim and dive like fishes. 
 
 Little boys will swim about in the boil- 
 ing surf, and even for amusement allow 
 
 PRETTY AND GRACEFUL. 
 
 themselves to be carried on the waves right 
 over the reefs, with nothing but a small 
 piece of wood to hold on to. An instance 
 
160 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 occurred in my father's time of a woman 
 swimming eighteen miles. 
 
 The native houses originally consisted 
 of nothing more than several uprights sup- 
 porting a roof of breadfruit wood, thatched 
 with leaves of the sugar-cane sewn to- 
 gether with sinnet (cocoanut fibre). 
 
 The sides were open save on occasions, 
 such as the rainy season, when the space 
 from roof to ground was screened by 
 sewing leaves together. To protect them- 
 selves from mosquitoes, each sleeper 
 would form a kind of tent or bed-curtain 
 by hanging a piece of siapo (native cloth) 
 over a cross-bar, and creep underneath. 
 
 Meals were taken under this common 
 roof, each one of the family sitting cross- 
 legged on the ground, and having his 
 portion before him on a leaf. A half cocoa- 
 nut shell, often carved and stained, served 
 as a drinking-cup. It is worthy of note, in 
 this connection, that it was quite the custom 
 for the father of the family to ask the 
 
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 161 
 
 blessing of the gods before commencing 
 meals, and at the same time, after the 
 manner of the ancient Greeks, to pour 
 out a libation of kava drink. 
 
 The cooking was done in a primitive but 
 effective manner, by means of hot stones. 
 A hole was dug, into which stones were 
 put, and upon them a hot fire was built. 
 So soon as the stones were thoroughly 
 hot, the food a whole pig perhaps, or a 
 quantity of fruits was put upon them with 
 some more hot stones on top, and then the 
 whole was covered with leaves and earth 
 for a half-hour or more. The result was a 
 dinner "done to a turn," and more deli- 
 cious than if done in one of our ovens. 
 
 For great feasts the provision was on 
 a most extensive scale, and for days, 
 even weeks before, the natives would 
 gather together fruits and pigs at a speci- 
 fied place in the bush. On the great day 
 there was a mighty roast, say, of two 
 hundred or three hundred pigs, and 
 
162 
 
 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 vast quantities of yams, breadfruit and 
 cocoanuts. 
 
 The feast, which might last a day or 
 several days, always wound up with 
 
 A SAMOAN FEAST. 
 
 dancing and various other amusements. 
 Indeed, the Samoans are very fond of 
 amusements, and frequently engage in 
 wrestling, boxing, both men and women, 
 
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 163 
 
 canoe races, and quite a number of other 
 games, including practice with clubs and 
 spears. 
 
 With the spear and club they are very 
 dexterous, and can, with unerring aim, put 
 spear after spear into a tree at the distance 
 of fifty or eighty paces. 
 
 One game, which is also a war drill, is 
 for a man, armed only with a club, to stand 
 at a distance from his comrades and let 
 them throw spears at him, it being his part 
 to strike off with the club each spear as it 
 reaches him. Remembering the sure aim 
 of those who throw, you can see that it 
 requires much practice and wonderful 
 quickness to ward off the spears, but they 
 do it every time. 
 
 Their spears and clubs are made of hard 
 woods, such as cocoanut and ironwood, 
 and are often carved. The natives often 
 tip their spears with ugly-looking barbed 
 points which tear the flesh when extracted. 
 
 Canoeing is quite a part of their life, and 
 
164 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 they make large numbers of canoes, from 
 the simple dugout to the large war canoe 
 holding fifty or one hundred people. The 
 boats are all provided with outriggers, for 
 they are too long and narrow to float with- 
 out them. All the parts of the canoe are 
 
 A NATIVE HOME. 
 
 sewn together with sinnet, and the whole 
 made water - tight with a covering of 
 resinous gum. 
 
 A whole article might be written upon 
 the religion and the superstitions of the 
 Samoans. They were not worshippers of 
 idols, although they were heathens. Their 
 religion was a worship of spirits spirits 
 
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 165 
 
 without number. Each person was sup- 
 posed to have a protecting deity, and each 
 village had one also, who presided over the 
 destinies of the inhabitants. 
 
 Their religion, with its strange ideas and 
 elaborate mythology, is now for the most 
 part a thing of the past. In seventy years, 
 since the missionaries landed, the people 
 have become fairly Christianized and civil- 
 ized. They have given up their supersti- 
 tions, and adopted many of the habits and 
 customs of the white men; they Irvje in 
 properly built houses, and on special occa- 
 sions dress in the same style. 
 
 The missionaries started schools and 
 workshops, and taught the natives reading, 
 writing, sewing and other useful things. 
 
 They now have self-supporting churches 
 and schools, and contribute largely to 
 missionary work elsewhere. Natives of 
 Samoa have for years past Heen mission- 
 aries Jo other islands. 
 
 REV. ROBT. G. HARBUTT. 
 
Tutuila and Manua. 
 
 By a treaty with England and Germany, 
 in December, 1899, our republic became 
 the owner of Tutuila, the third largest 
 island of the Samoan group, and of four 
 small islands lying some distance to the 
 eastward. 
 
 For agricultural purposes the two larger 
 Samoan islands present greater possibilities 
 than Tutuila, but ours is by far the most 
 valuable to* us of all the islands in the South 
 Pacific Ocean, because it contains the best 
 harbor. 
 
 As early as 1870 an American merchant 
 called the attention of our government to 
 the need of a coaling-station in the Pacific, 
 for both government vessels and our mer- 
 chant marine. He reported that Pago- 
 Pago, on the south side of Tutuila, would 
 satisfy the requirements in every particular. 
 
 It has a spacious bay with deep water 
 
TUTUILA AND MANUA. 
 
 167 
 
 near the shore, and is surrounded by high 
 hills which offer perfect protection to the 
 largest navy in the severest tornado. 
 
 When, in 1873, the seven Samoan chiefs 
 followed the suggestion of Americans and 
 
 PAGO-PAGO. 
 
 elected Malietoa king, a portion of the 
 harbor of Pago- Pago was set off for the 
 use of the United States as a coaling- 
 station. 
 
 Throughout the misrule following the 
 rebellion of 1884, to the present time, our 
 government kept possession of Pago- Pago. 
 
168 TUTUILA AND MANUA. 
 
 England held a strong interest in the 
 educational and missionary institutions of 
 Samoa. Germany had agricultural and 
 commercial interests in the islands. The 
 three nations together tried to preserve 
 the integrity of the little kingdom. 
 
 But intrigue and rebellion continued, 
 and when it was found that the native 
 government was not strong enough to 
 keep the peace, it was decided to divide 
 the kingdom, and the United States re- 
 ceived the part that was of most use to us. 
 
 Pago- Pago harbor will always be valu- 
 able as a coaling-station. It may possibly 
 become a commercial centre for all the 
 groups of islands in that part of the Pacific. 
 
 It is located near the routes of the large 
 transpacific steamers from San Francisco 
 and Vancouver to Australia and New 
 Zealand, and it is the only harbor on their 
 route, except Honolulu, that those large 
 steamers can enter. 
 
 As the products of the Pacific islands 
 
TUTUILA AND MANUA. 169 
 
 increase under the stimulus of civilization, 
 we may confidently expect to see a growing 
 and thriving commercial city at Pago- Pago. 
 
 Tutuila is about seventeen miles long 
 and five miles wide. A ridge of mountains 
 runs trie whole length of the island, with 
 peaks rising some four thousand feet high. 
 
 The surface is so rocky that there are 
 few cultivated fields, yet wherever there is 
 a bit of soil it is very fertile and will bear 
 abundant crops of every vegetable and 
 fruit needed by man. Breadfruit, bananas, 
 yams, taro and sweet potatoes grow freely. 
 Cocoanuts may be gathered every day in 
 the year. 
 
 The only export is copra, the dried fruit 
 of the cocoanut. Preparing this, and weav- 
 ing clothing and mats from the bark of the 
 paper mulberry are the only manufactures 
 of the people, and weaving is rapidly 
 diminishing since the importation of 
 cheap cotton prints. 
 
 The population of Tutuila is about four 
 
170 
 
 TUTUILA AND MANUA. 
 
 thousand, living in some thirty villages 
 scattered along the shores of the island 
 and by the little streams from the moun- 
 tains, where it is easy to raise their poultry 
 and pigs, and gather their fruits and vege- 
 tables, and is convenient to catch fish in 
 
 Mat. 
 
 SAVAII 
 
 SAMOAN 15 
 
 UPOLU 
 
 LANDS 
 
 TUTUILA 
 
 SAMOA AND MANUA. 
 
 their waters. They are a superior branch 
 of Polynesians, fairly well educated by 
 missionaries, and they strictly observe 
 the Christian Sabbath. 
 
 United States money has been the 
 standard currency for twenty years, and 
 American rule is welcomed by the natives. 
 When the American officer arrived to take 
 possession of Tutuila, the leading men of 
 
TUTUILA AND MANUA. 171 
 
 the island met him with enthusiasm and 
 presented him with a formal deed of ces- 
 sion, and at the same time assured him of 
 their joy at coming under the Stars and 
 Stripes. 
 
 Reports indicate that many families from 
 the other Samoan islands have lately 
 moved to Tutuila, because they preferred 
 the advantages of American schools and 
 the liberal privileges of the American 
 government. 
 
 About seventy miles northeast of Tutuila 
 we own the Manua group of three islands, 
 Tau, Ofu and Olosenga, all rocky islands 
 like Tutuila. 
 
 Tau is seven miles in diameter; the 
 other two islands extend about a mile in 
 the longest direction. Vegetation is luxu- 
 riant on every inch of soil and in the 
 crevices of the rocks. 
 
 The population is nearly a thousand well- 
 educated Christian people, who boast that 
 they have always been independent in 
 
172 TUTUILA AND MANUA. 
 
 government and rejoice to be called 
 Americans. 
 
 When they heard of the voluntary ces- 
 sion of Tutuila, their chiefs begged the 
 privilege of making a similar cession of 
 Manua. Their allegiance was accepted, 
 and with imposing ceremonies ; the Ameri- 
 can flag was raised in the presence of the 
 United States officers and a great multi- 
 tude of natives. 
 
 Rose Island, the smallest of our Samoan 
 possessions, is about ninety miles southeast 
 of Tau. It is a mile in diameter, and its 
 highest point is only about fifty feet above 
 the sea, so that in the severest storms 
 waves must dash over most of the island ; 
 yet there are indications that formerly it 
 was covered with vegetation. 
 
Guam. 
 
 The first American military expedition 
 to the Philippine Islands stopped on the 
 way June 20, 1898, to take possession of 
 Guam, the southernmost and largest of the 
 Ladrone Islands. 
 
 This act was a war measure to provide a 
 safe harbor between Honolulu and Manila 
 for a coaling - station, or for temporary 
 repairs if needed by our transports on the 
 way to Manila. 
 
 Guam is so far from ordinary communi- 
 cation with the continents that when the 
 Americans arrived, the governor had not 
 heard of the war, and supposed the guns 
 were fired as a salute. 
 
 The governor surrendered the whole 
 chain of fifteen islands, but our government 
 at the Treaty of Paris gave back all but 
 Guam to Spain, who promptly disposed of 
 them to Germany. 
 
174 
 
 GUAM. 
 
 The Governor of the Ladrones and all 
 his Spanish garrison were taken prisoners 
 of war and carried to Manila. An Ameri- 
 can citizen living on the island was made 
 temporary governor, and put in 
 command of the native guard. 
 It is a credit to both this man 
 and the people of Guam that 
 uninterrupted peace prevailed 
 till the coming of the Americans 
 to take formal posses- 
 sion in February, 1899. 
 In July of the same 
 year, Capt. Richard P. 
 Leary of the United 
 States cruiser Yosemite 
 arrived as governor, 
 and proceeded to 
 establish a permanent 
 civil government, under the Navy Depart- 
 ment of the United States. His garrison 
 was formed of marines, and the Yosemite 
 served as protection to the port. 
 
 THE 
 LADRONES 
 AND GUAM. 
 
GUAM. 
 
 175 
 
 Guam is about twenty-six miles long 
 and about five miles wide across the cen- 
 tre, the narrowest part; it widens toward 
 each end. The capital, Agafia, is midway 
 along the northwestern side, and seven 
 
 LANDING - PLACE AT PITI. 
 
 miles farther west is Piti, the landing-place 
 of Port San Luis de Apra, one of the best 
 insular harbors of the Pacific. 
 
 Under Governor Leary the bay has been 
 surveyed and charted, so that its narrow 
 entrance is safe for vessels of all sizes, 
 although the water shoals near the shore, 
 
176 GUAM. 
 
 so that landing must be made in small 
 boats. 
 
 Guam is greatly favored in climate and 
 soil. Nearly every fruit and vegetable 
 needed by man grows on the island, and 
 vegetation on the hills is very dense. Near 
 Agana is the central valley, in which rice, 
 taro, sugar-cane, bananas, cocoanuts and 
 other tropical fruits and vegetables grow. 
 
 To the north extends a plateau, bearing 
 coffee and all subtropical and temperate 
 zone vegetables. These same products, 
 together with valuable woods, grow in the 
 southern portion. Along its western side 
 extends a high ridge of hills, at some 
 places rising abruptly from the sea. 
 
 The only export under Spanish rule was 
 copra, and that went in trade to Japan. 
 Now that the steam sawmill has been set 
 up ; we may expect a sale of colored woods, 
 and later an export of a very choice coffee, 
 and possibly sugar and rice. 
 
 Heretofore there has been no induce- 
 
GUAM. 
 
 177 
 
 ment to raise crops or manufacture any- 
 thing beyond the family necessities. 
 Almost everybody owns land, and lives 
 happily in raising his own pigs and poultry, 
 and all the fruit and vegetables needed for 
 his family. His home is in one of the 
 
 picturesque little 
 villages along the 
 shore, embow- 
 rfc ered in palms and 
 profuse shrub- 
 bery. 
 
 The usual dwell- 
 ing is the Nipa 
 hut with bamboo walls. Some more ambi- 
 tious families will build of hand - made 
 planks, and a few wealthy families have 
 houses made like their small churches, of 
 the soft limestone of the island. The finest 
 house of all is the governor's palace at 
 Agana, which was made to include the 
 post-office and police headquarters. 
 
 The uniform climate, having a temper- 
 
 A NIPA HUT. 
 
178 GUAM. 
 
 ature within eighty to eighty-four degrees 
 throughout the year, with a constant breeze, 
 and a great abundance of food of every 
 variety have developed a superior branch 
 
 AN EASY LIFE. 
 
 of the Malay race. They welcome visitors 
 and have been quick to respond to the 
 influence of civilization. 
 
 They are a happy people, and enjoy the 
 amusements of holidays. Among their 
 sports cock-fighting has become almost a 
 
GUAM. 179 
 
 passion. The people are naturally neat; 
 their scanty clothing permits frequent 
 bathing. The men usually dress in shirt 
 and trousers, with the former outside, and 
 often omitted when at work. 
 
 The women's dress consists of a white 
 jacket with low neck and loose, short 
 sleeves and a cotton skirt of bright colors. 
 On "dress occasions," or among the 
 wealthy, the jacket is embroidered, in 
 some cases to the extent of making it a 
 very costly garment. Heelless slippers of 
 bright colors are worn, but in ordinary life 
 almost everybody goes barefooted. 
 
 There is a schoolhouse in nearly every 
 village, and a large portion of the people 
 can read and write in their own language, 
 and many, especially the half - breeds, 
 understand some Spanish and English. 
 The latter they learned in past years from 
 American traders and whalers. 
 
 The latest and greatest improvements 
 have been made by the establishment of 
 
180 GUAM. 
 
 American schools, and the introduction 
 of American machines and agricultural 
 implements. The people take readily to 
 instruction in manual labor, and the 
 patriotic songs of America fascinate them. 
 In nearly every home at least one member 
 of the family can play a musical instrument 
 of some kind. 
 
 With the little government entirely free 
 from politics, as it will naturally be under 
 the Navy Department, we may confidently 
 expect Guam to become a model colony. 
 
The Midway Islands. 
 
 For a thousand miles or more beyond 
 Hawaii toward Japan extends a shoal 
 which occasionally touches the surface in a 
 reef or little island. At the western end 
 of this irregular shoal are three islands, 
 formerly called Brooks Islands, in honor of 
 the American discoverer, and now known 
 as the Midway Islands. 
 
 The smallest is a mere sandy spit, over 
 which the waves dash in storms. The 
 other two islands are each four or five 
 miles long and about a mile wide. 
 
 There is no indication that these islands 
 were ever inhabited, but the soil is good, 
 and there is an abundance of sweet water, 
 so that quite a large colony could subsist 
 on the tropical fruits that might be raised, 
 and the abundant fish and turtle that 
 abound in the lagoons and waters sur- 
 rounding these islands. 
 
182 THE MIDWAY ISLANDS. 
 
 The possible value of the Midway 
 Islands lies in their convenience for a 
 relay-station of a future Pacific cable and 
 for a coaling-station, since they are on the 
 direct route from Honolulu to Yokohama. 
 There is a fine and safe harbor for vessels 
 no larger than colliers, and outside the 
 harbor, in the road-stead, there is good 
 anchorage for the largest steamers, offering 
 all necessary facilities for recoaling in fair 
 weather. 
 
 Captain Brooks discovered the islands 
 in 1859. The American government took 
 formal possession August 28, 1867, and 
 raised the Stars and Stripes on the highest 
 point. In the past few years the islands 
 have been more thoroughly examined, with 
 a view of establishing a permanent station 
 for coaling and for a future Pacific cable. 
 
 One of the Midway Islands visited by the 
 United States expedition making surveys 
 for the Pacific cable is described as inhab- 
 ited by an almost incredible number of 
 
THE MIDWAY ISLANDS. 183 
 
 sea-birds. Upon fully one-half the surface 
 of the island the sand was literally covered 
 with them, and the noise of the winged 
 host astonished the visitors. A few land- 
 birds were noticed here and there among 
 them. 
 
 The Midway albatross refused to retreat 
 before the invader, and bravely faced the 
 foe. But it is none the braver since it is 
 now American, for the albatross on other 
 islands of the Pacific has so little fear of 
 man that it will scarcely move aside to let 
 the egg-hunters plunder its nest. 
 
 A neighboring island from which newly 
 laid eggs may be taken every day would 
 be appreciated by a colony at an isolated 
 cable-office or coaling-station. 
 
Wake Island. 
 
 Commander Taussig of the gunboat 
 Bennington, on his way from Honolulu to 
 Guam in February, 1899, stopped at Wake 
 Island, and took formal possession of it in 
 the name of the United States. 
 
 A boat's crew was sent ashore, a flagstaff 
 was erected, and the American flag was 
 hoisted. A brass plate was fastened to 
 the flagstaff to record the date of the 
 ceremony and its meaning. 
 
 This little bit of uninhabited territory in 
 the Pacific lies very near the route from 
 Honolulu to Guam and the Philippines, 
 and we are therefore naturally interested 
 in it. 
 
 The claim of the United States to this 
 island is based on original discovery in the 
 year 1796 by Captain Wake, who gave his 
 name to the island. It was also visited by 
 a United States exploring expedition and 
 
WAKE ISLAND. 185 
 
 officially described to the government 
 together with other islands of the Pacific. 
 
 Wake Island is of coral formation and is 
 about four miles long and two miles wide. 
 It is of so slight elevation that in severest 
 storms the spray of the waves may possibly 
 be driven all over it. This may account 
 for the fact that there are no large trees on 
 the island, but only shrubs and low vege- 
 tation, with an entire lack of fresh water. 
 
 As Wake Island is nearly in a direct line 
 from Hawaii to the Philippines, it would be 
 a good location for a cable-station. Its 
 lack of harbor and lack of food and water 
 for man, however, would make it a very 
 lonely dwelling-place. 
 
 Yet it is possible to make it habitable. 
 An enbankment could be made far enough 
 from the water's edge to protect all the 
 land within, and an abundance of food 
 could be raised on even a small area. 
 
 Rain - water in abundance could be 
 obtained from roofs and catch-basins, and 
 

 186 WAKE ISLAND. 
 
 stored in cisterns, as is the custom 
 in Bermuda. The neighboring waters 
 abound in fish. 
 
 Doubtless, if our government ever 
 establishes a cable-station at Wake Island, 
 which is not at all improbable, American 
 ingenuity will invent some means of 
 making the place habitable, not only for 
 the cablemen, but for some neighbors. 
 
The Guano Islands. 
 
 In August, 1856, Congress authorized 
 and encouraged American citizens to 
 discover and occupy any unclaimed islands 
 containing guano, wherever they might be 
 found. 
 
 In a few years following the United 
 States took authority over about seventy 
 small islands, some of them mere reefs, 
 which had apparently been the undisturbed 
 homes of multitudes of water-fowl for 
 countless ages. 
 
 At that time the idea of territorial 
 expansion did not prevail in this country, 
 and the government did not pretend to 
 claim permanent ownership. It merely 
 protected the American citizen or company 
 in the business of removing guano from 
 these islands. 
 
 They are called bonded islands because 
 the men or companies operating them gave 
 
188 THE GUANO ISLANDS. 
 
 bonds to comply with the provisions made 
 by our government concerning their 
 business and its relation to other nations, 
 and to relinquish all claims to the land 
 after they had removed the guano. 
 
 About a dozen of the Guano Islands are 
 in the Caribbean Sea, and some fifty or 
 more are in the Pacific Ocean, scattered 
 from eight degrees north of the equator 
 to twelve degrees south, and from one 
 hundred and fifty to one hundred and 
 seventy-eight degrees west longitude. 
 
 A very few lie outside these limits, as 
 guano accumulates only on small un- 
 inhabited islands in the comparatively 
 rainless regions near the equator, where 
 the birds have been undisturbed in raising 
 their young through the centuries. 
 
 In regions of great rainfall the heavy 
 showers would be pitiless to the young 
 birds, and the floods would every year 
 wash off the guano deposits. 
 
 When the islands were first bonded the 
 
THE GUANO ISLANDS. 189 
 
 guano sold at a very high price as a 
 fertilizer, but since the immense beds of 
 phosphates have been discovered in our 
 Southern States, the demand for guano 
 has so decreased that shipments are no 
 longer very profitable. 
 
 At least one of the islands in the Carib- 
 bean Sea has been sold to Venezuela, and 
 several of the Pacific islands lying near the 
 British possessions of the Phoenix Islands 
 have been given to England, and other 
 small islands have been abandoned. 
 
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