iff ■ THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES h Frontispiece. CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL, ST. AUGUSTINE. O J ©CD 5iy apj )? NEW YORK : THE AMERICAN NEWS COMPANY, NASSAU STREET, NEW YOllK. 1873. t s ■> > >, > > • Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S73, by EDWARD O. JENKESrS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C, Slfe. ^ CONTENTS, e/» PAGE. Florida — Its Discovery. 7 De Ayllon — Narvaez — Nunez De Vaca. 11 De Narvaez— 1528. .... . 13 Hernando De Soto. 20 Don Tristan De Luna— 1559. . 41 The Huguenot Settlements— 15(»'J 42 De Gourges. .... . 52 Florida ; Its Geographj- and Climate, etc. 60 Climate. ..... . 63 How to Reach Florida. . . . 65 Charieston ..... . 69 Objects of Interest. 73 Savannah. ..... . • 78 Fernandina. . , . . • 85 St. John's River. .... . 86 Jacksonville. .... 87 St. Jolin's River. .... . 90 Mandarin. .... 91 Hibernia. ..... . 93 Magnolia. .... 93 Green Cove Springs .... . 92 Picolata. .... 93 Tocoi. ..... . 94 Orange Mills. .... 94 Palatka. ..... . 94 Enterprise. .... 97 Mellonville. ..... . 99 Sanford. .... 100 8t. Augustine. .... . 10:3 OckJawaha River, .... . Ufa 45(iG?iI GUIDE TO FLORIDA. FLORIDA — ITS DISCOVERY. Had Christopher Columbus, on leaving the Island of San Salvador, proceeded Westward, he would have ultimately discovered the coast of Florida ; for the Gulf Stream, then an unknown power, would have swept him to the Northward — the difference of Latitude re- quired for the purpose. But, influenced by the description of the natives, of a land of wealth bearing to the southward, he directed his prow thither, and brought up on the coast Cuba. Thus was reserved to one of Colum- bus' companions, (Juan Ponce de Leon,) the honor of the discovery of the peninsula ; a most romantic incident of History. In 1 5 12, the brave old soldier, Ponce de (7) 8 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Leon, was Governor of Porto Rico. He had carved his way to glory and wealth, but never- theless aspired to equal Columbus in renown, and for that purpose fitted out an expedition. It was whilst discussing the subject with his followers, and arguing as to the course to be pursued, that an Indian Cacique narrated to them a wonderful story; that, not many leagues away, towards the setting sun, there existed a land of great riches, and exceeding all others in beauty of scenery. But, what was most extraordinary, it possessed a mar- vellous fountain, whose waters had the power to renew youth and give vigor to those who bathed in or drank them. Ponce de Leon had witnessed such wonder- ful things in his several voyages, that he was prepared to give credence to the most exager- ated accounts. " What if it should prove true?" soliloquized the old warrior, as he listened to the inter- preter. "And why should it not be ? Have I not already discovered marvels, which in my youthful days I would have deemed impossible GUIDE TO FLORIDA. g as this? Ponce de Leon will, in giving to the world a rejuvenating- fountain, be entitled to greater renown than those who merely gave wealth and continents to their sovereio;ns." An expedition of three vessels was imme- diatel}' fitted out and set sail from St. Germain, Porto Rico, in March 15 12. Ponce de Leon directed its course to the Bahamas. He vis- ited the various localities where the fountain might be, but his search proved fruitless. Island after island was explored, and the waters tasted and bathed in, yet the desired effect was not produced. Nothing daunted, the brave soldier steered to the Westward ; and, on Palm Sunday, the Pascua Florida of the Spaniards, (27th March, 15 12) he dis- covered land ahead — a land of such mao-nifi- cent vegetation and variety of flowers, that he gave to it the name it continues to bear — Florida. On April 2, 15 12, Ponce de Leon disem- barked a little to the northward of St. Auffus- tine, planted a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of his sovereign. He then turned his attention to the search for the I* lO GUIDE TO FLORIDA. "Fountain of Youth;" and, in its absence, gold and precious stones. He found neither, and two months later returned to Porto Rico. In spite of his want of success, De Leon made a brilliant report of the value of his discovery, and was rewarded by the Crown with the title of Adelentado, or Governor of Florida ; in return for which he agreed to conquer and colonize it. This, however, he did not appear in any particular hurry to do; as it was not until nearly ten j^eare later that he again set out for the peninsula. In the meantime, several explorers had vis- ited its shores and described it as a vast con- tinent, and not an Island as he supposed it to be. At this time, Cortez was in Mexico ; and the reports of his conquests and spoils incited Ponce de Leon to put on foot a second expe- dition, in the hope of meeting with a like suc- cess. He sailed, therefore, with two vessels ; but no sooner had he landed in Florida, than he was attacked by the natives with such fierceness that, after a severe conflict, the Spaniards were compelled to re-embark and return to Cuba. Ponce himself received a GUIDE TO FLORIDA. n wound, from the effects of which he died, soon after reaching- the Island. His epitaph was : " In this sepulchre rest the bones of a man who was a Lion by name, and still more by nature." DE AYLLON — NARVAEZ — NUNEZ DE VACA. Shortly after the death of Ponce de Leon, Diego Miruelo, the captain of a small Span- ish vessel, being driven by stress of weather to the coast of Florida, received from the na- tives, in traffic, a quantity of gold and silver. With these he returned to St. Domingo ; and the accounts he gave of the country he had visited caused much excitement on the Island. At that time there was, in St. Domingo, a company engaged in gold mining, at whose head was a distinguished vounsr nobleman named Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon. This gen- tleman, as will be seen, was possessed of keenness and a daring spirit. De Ayllon, fearing, no doubt, his annual statement for tiie year 1521, would make but a sorry figure, owing to the scarcity of labor 12 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. on the Island, determined to visit the main- land, and secure a couple of cargoes of the savages so plausibly described by Miruelo. Now, owing to the efforts of Las Casas, the Spanish crown had prohibited the enslaving of the natives of the New World. This pro- hibition, however, did not include the Caribs, who were said to be cannibals. De Ayllon, consequently, gave out that the two vessels he was fitting out were for the purpose of obtaining Caribs ; but, sailing directly to the mainland, he was driven by stress of weather and the unknown currents further to the north than he anticipated, and caijie to an- chor on the coast of w^hat is now South Caro- lina, at a place called Chicora, but which he named St. Helena. Here the Indians at first fled in terror at the sight of ships and white men, whom the}^ beheld for the first time ; but the Spaniards soon quieted their fears ; and they returned, bringing presents of furs, pearls, and small quantities of gold and silver. The Spaniards gave them trinkets in return, and invited them on board their vessels, to which the GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 13 confiding natives repaired in considerable numbers. Securing them below the hatches, the Spaniards weighed anchor and set sail for home. One of the vessels foundered at sea, and of the poor captives confined on board of the other, the ancient historian says : " these Indians profited them nothing, for they all died of care and grief" De Ayllon shortly afterwards obtained from his sovereign the appointment of Governor of Chicora ; he fitted out an expedition of three vessels to conquer his new dominion, landing near St. Helena. The inhabitants received him with apparent cordialit}^ ; but, after feasting his soldiers for three days, they rose upon them in the night and massacred almost. the entire force ; including De Ayllon himself. DE NARVAEZ — 1 5 28. The next expedition to Florida was con- ducted on a grander scale ; it was led by Pamphilo de Narvaez. De Narvaez, who was a distinguished soldier, had been sent by Ve- H GUIDE TO FLORIDA. lasquez, the Governor of Cuba, to Mexico, with nearly two thousand troops to supersede Cortez, whose brilhant career had excited the jealousy of the Governor. Instead of turning over the command of his three hun- dred warriors to Narvaez, Cortez, at night, fell upon his rival ; and, after a short struggle, in which Narvaez lost an eye, took him pris- oner. Then almost the whole of the new comers went over to Cortez. When, subsequently, Narvaez proceeded to Spain, he was consoled by having conferred upon him the Governorship of Florida. He immediately fitted out an expedition of five vessels; and, on i^pril 12th, 1528, landed on the west coast of Florida, near what is now called Tampa Bay. There he landed three hundred men and forty-five horses. Against the advice of some of his followers, Narvaez determined to at once penetrate the country in search of an empire which should rival Mexico or Peru. His companions had coun- selled their remaining b}^ their ships, and coasting along the continent ; but Narvaez was not to be moved ; and, after instructing GUIDE TO FLORIDA. jc his captains to take the vessels to some con- venient harbor to await his arrival, he started on his march, in a northerly direction. Instead of finding the rich countr}^ they had fancied, the Spaniards could scarcely scrape the wherewith sufficient to keep body and soul together ; whilst the natives, differing totally from those of jNIexico, contested every inch of ground, with a desperation that dis- couraged and astonished the Spaniards. His- tory offers few such records of suffering as is narrated in the pages which describe the march of Narvaez through Florida. Narvaez found nothing but swamps and starvation, with hostile Indians on every hand. After losing a large number of his force by sick- ness and the arrows of the natives, Narvaez, in despaii", called a council of his officers. His hopes of wealth and conquest were at an end ;• he sought how best to escape from the country before they should all perish. Irving says: "To proceed along the coast in search of the fleet, or to retrace their steps, would be to hazard the lives of all. At length it was suggested that they should construct 1 6 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. small barks, launch them upon the deep, and keep along the coast until they should find their ships. It was a forlorn hope, but they caught at it like drowning men. They ac- cordingly set to work with great eagerness; One of them constructed a pair of bellows out of deer skins, furnishing it with a wooden pipe. Others made charcoal and a forge. By the aid of these, they soon turned their stirrups, spurs, crossbows, and other articles of iron, into nails, saws, and hatchets. The tails and manes of the horses, twisted with the fibres of the palm-treee, served for rig- ging ; their shirts, cut open and sewed to- gether, furnished sails ; the fibrous part of the palm-tree also was used as oakum ; the resin of the pine trees for tar ; the skins of horses were made into vessels to contain fresh water ; and a quantity of maize was secured, after hard fighting with the neighboring natives. A horse was killed every three days for pro- visions for the laboring hands and the sick." Having at length, by great exertions, com- pleted five frail barks, on the 22d of Septem- ber they embarked from forty to fifty persons GUIDE TO FLORIDA. » j^ in each ; but they were so closely crowded that there was scarcely room to move, while the gunwales of the boats wxre pressed down to the w-ater's edge. Setting sail from this bay, which they called the Ba}- of Caballos, the}' proceeded on, for several days, to an is- land, where they secured five canoes, which had been deserted by the Indians. These having been attached to their barks enabled them to sail with greater comfort. They passed through the strait between the island and the mainland, which they called the Strait of San Miguel, and sailed onward, for many days enduring the torments of hunger and parching thirst. The skins which contained their fresh water having burst, several men, driven to desperation, drank salt water and died miserably. Their sufferings were aggra- vated b}' a fearful storm. At length the}' approached "a more popu- lous and fertile part of the coast," upon which they landed, occasionally, to procure provi- sions; and were immediately involved in bloody affrays wnth the natives. Thus harass- ed by sea and land, famishing with hunger, 1 8 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. their barks shattered and scarcely manage- able, these unfortunate wanderers lost all presence of mind, and became wild and des- perate. They were again driven out seaward, and scattered during a stormy night. At daj/break three of the tempest-tossed barks rejoined each other. In the best-man- ned and fastest sailer, was Pamphilo de Nar- vaez. Alvar Nunez, who had command of another boat, seeing the Adelantado making for the land, appealed to him for aid; but Narvaez replied, " that it was no longer time to help others, but that everj^ one must take care of himself" He then steered for the land, abandoning Alvar Nunez to his fate. After sailing along the coast for many da3^s, Narvaez anchored one night off the land. His crew, with but two exceptions, had repaired on shore, in search of provisions. These two were a sailor and a page who were sick. In the meantime, a violent northerly gale sprung up; and the boats, in which was neither food nor water, were driven to sea. They were never heard of afterward, and thus ended the ill-fated expedition of Pamphilo de Narvaez. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. jg Narvaez had embarked at a point near Ap- alachicola Bay, and set out in his frail vessels to reach the Spanish Settlements in Mexico, under the impression derived from the charts of the day, that these were nearer to him than the shores of Cuba. The truth, however, was, that the latter were scarcely four hun- dred miles distant, whilst the nearest Spanish settlement was eleven hundred miles away. This error doubtless cost him his life. At the time of his death, there remained alive about one hundred of his followers, but they gradually separated ; and, through hunger and the arrows of the natives, were i-educed to four persons— Cabega de Vaca, Treasurer; Cap- tain Alonzo Castillo ; Captain Andreas Doran- tes; and Estevanico, an Arabian Nesfro or Moor. These owed their safety to their being considered by the Indians great medicine- men. De Vaca, according to an account which he published on reaching Spain, had performed some remarkable cures, which he acknovv^l edged surprised himself. Having spent six years with the tribe lie designates as the Mariannes, De Vaca and his 20 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. three companions, by that time fully conver- sant with the language and customs of the In- dians, set forth to attempt the task of reaching the Settlements in Mexico. Their experience in the healing art did them good service, for by it they were enabled to pass through the many tribes who occupied the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. They crossed the Mississippi, and at length reached, in safety, Mexico, from whence he returned to Spain, where he published the interesting account of his adventures. De Vaca was the first white man who traversed the Cotton States ; and to him belongs the credit of the discovery of the Mississippi, and not to De Soto. Narvaez's fleet searched for the Governor during the space of a year, and then returned to Cuba, HERNANDO DE SOTO. One would have thought that the sad fate of Narvaez would have deterred further ex- peditions to Florida ; but such was not the case, and the story of the adventures of De Vaca, fraught with sufferings, seemed only GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 21 to Stimulate the adventurous spirit of the dav. It was not the aspiration to glor^^, but the greediness of wealth which inspired those ad- venturers. They believed in a continent ex- ceeding Mexico or Peru in precious metals, and therefore sought it. When Hernando de Soto, the companion of Pizan-o, announced his intention of fitting out an expedition, thou- sands flocked to his standard. Hernando de Soto belonged to oi>e of the noblest families of Spain ; he was boi-n in 1501. At an early age, having, as an old Chronicler says, but his sword for his estate, he joined D'Avilas, who had been made Governor of the West Indies. De Soto found favor in the eyes of the latter, and, in 1531, was given com- mand of a body of men, with whom he joined Pizarro, then on his way to the conquest of Peru. Pizarro soon recognized in De Soto a leading spirit ; he made him second in com- mand. Uniting prudence to valor he was ever foremost in every struggle, and invariably victorious. De Soto had the good fortune to capture the Inca, am] to put to flight his forces. The con- 22 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. quest of Peru achieved, Pizarro would have retained De Soto with him, but the latter de- termined to return to Spain. This he did in 1536, carrying with him, as his share of the spoils of the Inca, 180,000 crowns of gold. He appeared at the court of Charles V., sur- rounded by a splendid retinue, creating a sensation which made him the lion of the hour. His influence at court increased, and vras strengthened by his marriage with Isa- bella de Bobadilla, daughter of De Aviles, one of the most powerful families of the kingdom. It was about that time that De Vaca brought to Spain the tidings of the fate of Narvaez. De Soto sought De Vaca ; and, after listening to his narrative, hastened to the Emperor, and offered to conquer Florida at his own expense. His Majesty was gracious- ly pleased to grant the request, and conferred upon him the title of Adelantado, in addition to that of Governor of Florida and Cuba for life. As we have already said, no sooner was it known that De Soto was fitting out an ex- pedition, than thousands flocked to his stan- dard ; but he chose only the young and vig- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 23 orous, such as could best endure the hard- ships and dangers of the expedition. On April 6, 1538, De Soto sailed with a fleet of ten vessels. His force consisted of a thousand men, commanded by the 6lite of the Spanish cavaHers. In the largest vessel, the '' San Cristoval," a ship of eight hundred tons, was the Governor, his wife Doiia Isa- bel, and his family and retinue. The fleet touched the Canary Islands and reached San- tiago de Cuba in May. De Soto remained in Cuba a yeai", acclimat- ing his forces and obtaining information as to the Continent he was about to visit. Indian guides from the Florida Coast were obtained, and every precaution taken to ensure the suc- cess of the enterprise. All being in readi- ness, the expedition started in May, 1539; and, on the 25th of the same month, disem- barked its thousand men and 350 horses at Tampa Bay. De Soto remained awhile in the vicinity of his landing, endeavoring to conciliate Hirrituqua, the powerful Cacique of the neighborhood. His efforts proved vain— the Chief was obdurate. This can be 24 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. readily understood when we know that Nar- vaez, in a transport of rage, for a trivial caase, had ordered the Cacique's nose to be cut off and his mother to be torn by dogs. Whilst attempting to negotiate with the Chief, De Soto learned that a follower of Narvaez was living with a neighboring tribe, whose chief was named Mucoso. He was greatly pleased with the news, as he fully appreciated the importance to the expedition of having as guide one who had been living m the country ten years, and who was doubt- less familiar with the language and customs of the natives. De Soto at once set about securing the person of Juan Ortiz — such was the Spaniard's name ; he accordingly des- patched his trusty lieutenant, De Gallegos, with a company of lancers, under the guid- ance of an Indian, on an embassy to the Cacique Mucoso, soliciting the release of Ortiz, and inviting the Chief to his camp, with promises of friendship and munificent rewards. In the meantime, Mucoso, learning of De Soto's arrival in the neighboring province GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 2$ and fearing that it was his intention to con- quer the whole country, despatched Ortiz on a mission to the Governor to pray De Soto not to lay waste his whole territory, and that in return he and his people would be devoted to his service. Ortiz, highly pleased with his mission, set out, accompanied by a body of chosen warriors. They had proceeded but a short distance, wdien, at the edge of a forest, they suddenly came upon Gallegos and his lancers — the companions of Ortiz retreating to the woods ; but Ortiz, forgetting that, with quiver at back, a bow and arrow in hand, and his head adorned with feathers, he differed but little from his companions, scorned the advice, and marched forth to meet his country- men, who, he thought, would recognize him. The Spaniards, seeing the Indians, at once charged upon them, driving them to the woods, leaving one dead upon the field. Ortiz was nearly ridden over by a trooper — he cried out lustily, " Seville," at the same time making the sign of the cross. The Spaniard reined in his horse, and learning he had found the object of their search, seized 2 26 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Ortiz by the arm, lifting him upon the croup of his saddle, and dashed off with him to Gallegos, who returned to De Soto in great glee with his prize. The Governor received Ortiz in the warmest manner, sympathized with his past sufferings, and at once ordered him arms, clothing, and a horse. Ortiz narrated his experience to De Soto ; it was most romantic. It appeared that Nar- vaez, upon landing in Florida, sent back to Cuba, with despatches, one of his smallest ves- sels, upon which was Juan Ortiz — she imme- diately returned laden with supplies for the forces ; but by that time Narvaez had marched into the interior. The Spaniards, from their vessel, saw on shore some Indians, who pointed to a letter in the end of a cleft stick fixed in the earth. Believing it to contain instructions from Narvaez, they made signs to the Indians to bring it to them, but this they declined to do. Juan Ortiz and three companions then went to the shore in a boat; but were no sooner landed than they were in a moment surround- ed and hastened awav. The crew of the ves- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 27 sel, alarmed at the treatment of their ship- mates, and the number of the enemy in si^J-ht. set sail, leaving- Ortiz and his companions to their fate. By this decoy, the Indians secured the captives required to gratify the Cacique's revenge upon the Spaniards, for Hirritriqua was smarting under the loss of his nose, and was overjoj^ed when the prisoners were brought before him. They were placed under a strong guard until a festival da}^ when one by one the}' were made to run the gauntlet, and in this way three of them perished miserably. Ortiz had been reserved for the last ; and the chief, to vary the entertainment, ordered him to be bound to a staging of poles, and a fire kindled under him. The first part of the order had been executed ; and Ortiz, who was then but eighteen, was stripped and bound to the stake. At that moment, the beautiful daugh- ter of the Cacique, who was about the same age as Ortiz, saw the dreadful fate of the youth ; she was moved by compassion ; and, throwing herself at her father's feet, begged him to spare the stranger's life. Hirritriqua granted her request; and tiius Florida 28 GUIDE TO. FLORIDA. possessed a Pocahontas long before Capt. John Smith owed his life to that renowned maiden. But Ortiz led a sorry life of it ; he was made to labor like a slave, and was subjected to cruel treatment. He would have perished trom starvation, had it not been for food fur- nished him by his lovel}^ protector. One night the Cacique's daughter came to Ortiz, and told him that her father had determined to sacrifice him at the approaching festival ; and that all her entreaties had failed to shake his determination. She added that a trusty guide would, that night, lead him to Mucozo, a neighboring chief, who loved her and sought her in marriage ; and who, for her sake, would protect him. At the appointed time, Ortiz met the guide, and w\Ts safely conducted to Mucozo, who re- ceived him warmly, and finally became greatly attached to him. His hospitable reception displeased Hirritriqua, wdio made repeated demands on Mucozo to give up the fugitive. The latter, nevertheless, maintained inviolate the sacred rites of hospitality, notwithstanding GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 20 that the hand of the lovely maiden depended on his acquiescing'. Ortiz had been among the Indians nearly ten years, when De Soto made his appear- ance ; and, as it may well be supposed, he was overjoyed to rejoin his countrymen. His first act was to bring about friendly relations be- tween De Soto and his noble protector, Mu- cozo. In this he succeeded so well, that whilst the Spaniards remained in that part of the country, the}^ were the best of friends. When, subsequently, the fleet sailed from the neigh- boring harbor, many things with which the Spaniards did not wish to be encumbered were presented to Mucozo, who found him- self abundantly provided for. It took many days for the Indians to carry to their villages, the clothing, weapons, and various stores which the Spaniards had given them. De Soto, as we have already stated, landed in Florida at Tampa Bay. From that point he took his route to the north and east, pass- ing through Ocala and Tallahassee, from whence he despatched an exploring parly, which penetrated far into the interior. Hav- 30 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ing received a favorable report as to the rich- ness of the country to the north, he pushed forward in that direction, having- first sent orders to his fleet to meet him at Pensacola Bay. De Soto crossed the Savannah river, near the present site of the City of Savannah ; and entered what is now the State of South Carolina. There a pleasing incident occurred, which we can do no better than relate in the words of Fairbanks, in his " Histoiy of Florida:" "Near the Atlantic coast, in South Caroli- na, De Soto came into the territories of an Indian Queen, invested with youth, beauty, and loveliness, who is styled b}^ the old Chronicles ' the Ladie of the Countrie.' Upon De Soto's approach, he was met by a lady ambassadress, sister of her Majest}^ who de- livered a courteous speech of welcome ; and, within a little time, the Ladie came out of the town in a chaire, whereon certain of the prin- cipal Indians brought her to the river. She entered into a barge, which had the sterne tilted over, and on the floor her mat ready laid, with two cushions upon it, one upon GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 3 1 another, where she sat her down, and with her came her principal Indians, in other barges, which did wait upon her, " She went to the place where the Governor was, and at her coming, she made this speech : * Excellent lord, I wish this coming of your lordship's into these your countries to be most happy; although my power be not answerable to my will, and my services be not according to m}- desire, nor such as so high a pi-ince as your lordship deserveth, yet such the good will is rather to be accepted than all the treasures of the world, that with- out it can be offered ; with most unfailable and manifest affection, I offer you my person, lords, and subjects, and this small service.' "After this courteous and graceful speech from the throne, it may be inferred that so gallant a cavalier as De Soto must have re- plied in equally complimentary style. The princess caused to be presented to the Ade- iantado rich presents of the clothes and skins of the country ; and, far greater attraction for them, beautiful strings of pearls. Her Ma- jesty, after some maiden coyness, took froai 32 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. her own neck a great cordon of pearls, and cast it about the neck of the Governor, enter- taining him with very gracious speeches of love and courtesy ; and, as soon as he was lodged in the town, she sent him another present, of not quite so delicate and refined a character, but no doubt considered by her of far greater value, namely, some hens. Per- ceiving that they valued the pearls, she ad- vised the Governor to send and search certain graves that were in that town, and that they should find many. They searched the graves, and there found ' fourteen measures' of pearls, weighing two hundred and ninet3'-two pounds, figures of various kinds — little babies, birds, etc., were tnade of them," reminding one of the recent excavations at Chiriqui. The people were brown, well made, and well proportioned ; and more civil than the other tribes which had been met with in Florida ; they were likewise well shod and clothed. The Spaniards, worried and fatigued by their tedious and fruitless marches, urged their leader to settle in the country, as the GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 33 climate was mild, the lands rich and produc- tive, and the coast afforded good harbors to shelter their ships. But the Governor re- plied, that he intended to seek treasures such as Atahualpa, Lord of Peru, possessed. Doubtless the country was a good one, that pearls of value abounded therein, yet there was not sufficient inducement to retain him there. And, as De Soto Avas firm and decided in his opinion, though giving car to those of others, his followers acquiesced in his views. " The fair princess seems to have been ill requited for her hospitable reception of the Spaniards. Held as a hostage (for the good behaviour of the Indians, it is presumed), Dj Soto insisted upon her accompan3-ing him, which she did for many days ; until, one day, turning aside into the forest upon some slight pretext, she disappeared, not without suspicion of design, as there happened to be missing at the same time one of the Spaniards, who, report said, bad joined the fair princess for weal or for woe, and had returned with her to her tribe." From South Carolina, De Soto proceeded 2* 34 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. to Georgia, which he penetrated as far as the borders of Tennessee, but failed to find the gold which the natives of the sea-board, with the hope of getting rid of him, had stated would there be found in abundance. Turn- ing his steps to the south-west, he passed through Georgia and Alabama, and reached a point near Mobile, where news was brought that the fleet was awaiting him but a few days' journey off, in the spacious harbor of Ochusc, or Pensacola. It would have been well if the valorous Spaniard had then abandoned his hopeless enterprise, and had re-embarked his discour- aged followers, who had undergone eighteen months of hardship — well, if he had returned to Cuba, where Dona Isabel was anxiously awaiting his coming. But De Soto had de- cided never to return to his native land until he had discovered the land where wealth abounded. So, binding Ortiz, who, alone be- sides himself, knew of the proximity of the fleet, to secrecy, he directed his course to the northward and westward ; and, after a march fraught with dangers and difficulties, emerged GUIDE TO FLORIDA 35 from the swamps and forests of the wilder- ness, in the Spring of 1541, upon the banks of the Father of Waters, the Mecassabe, near the present site .of Memphis. That year he spent exploring the country west of the Mississippi, and in April he re- turned to the river, intending to send de- spatches to the fleet, to be conveyed to Dona Isabel. But the end of the brave soldier was approaching. In the long marches through the swamps and lowlands, he had contracted a fever, which increased rapidl}', and made him aware that his last hour was at hand. He prepared for death with the calmness of a soldier, appointed Louis de Alvarado to the chief command, and required his officers to take the oath to obey and serve him faithfully. This done, the dying Governor called to him his followers, of whom he tenderly took his last leave, calmly address- ing them while they wept. De Soto soon after expired.* Thus perished Hernando de Soto, the most distinguished of the man}^ brave leaders, * Irving. 36 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. whose names are honored as the discoverers and settlers of the Western World. His fol- lowers, fearing to bury him on the shore, lest the Indians should desecrate his grave, hol- lowed out the trunk of a live oak of sufficient diameter to contain the body. Therein they placed the corpse, closed its opening with planking, and at midnight conveyed the re- mains to mid-stream, where the river was a mile in width and nineteen fathoms deep, They there committed to the deep the mortal remains of their commander. De la Vega, in his history of the expedition, says : " The discoverer of the Mississippi slept beneath its waters. He had crossed a lai-ge part of the Continent in search of gold, and found nothing so remarkable as his burial- place." Our fair readers will ask what became of the eighteen "measures" of pearls. Alas! in one of the villages where De Soto established his quarters, the natives, at night, fired the building ; and it was quite as much as the Spaniards could do to save themselves, much GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 37 less the pearls which, together with quan- tities of stores and equipments, were utterly consumed. De Soto died on 21st iMay, 1542. His suc- cessor, INIoscoso de Alvarado, at once sum- moned a council of his officers to determine the best course to pursue. They decided to leave the country ; but how to do so with the least embarrassment was the question. One of the officers, Juan de Anasco, urged the Commander to push through to the frontiers of Mexico, offering to show the way. He insisted that the distance was not great . therefore his advice prevailed, and, in the early part of June, they commenced their march onward. The Spaniards had not proceeded far on their way, Avhen they discovered that one of their number was missing; a young Cavalier of good family named Diego de Guzman. It appears that the gay Diego, in a foray, had captured a most beautiful Indian girl, with whom he at once fell most desperately in love. As this fair damsel was also missing, the Span- iards concluded the pair had gone off togcth- 45(5G7a 38 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. er. To make sure that such was the case, the general summoned to him the several chiefs of the province who were in his escort, and gave them to understand that, unless the des- erter was brought to his camp, he would be led to believe the Indians had murdered him ; in which case their lives should be the penalty. The alarmed chiefs sent forth their scouts, who soon -returned with the news that Guz- man was with his fair captive's father, a neigh- boring Cacique, living on the best in the land and treated with great kindness and distinct- ion. De Gallegos, who was a friend and townsman of De Guzman, wrote beseechingly to him, to remember that he was a Spaniard and a Cavalier, and not to desert his God, his countrymen, and his native land. His elo- quent appeal was returned the following day, with the indorsement, in charcoal' " De Guz- man." No other word did the young Cavalier vouchsafe to his companions in arms, but the messenger said he had no intention nor wish to rejoin the army ; whilst the Cacique sent word that his son-in-law, who had restored GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 30 to him a beloved daughter, was not detained by force, but remained of his own free will. The Governor, upon this, abandoned any fur- ther attempt to recover De Guzman, and re- leased the chiefs ; who, however, accompanied him to the frontier.* For many weary months, the brave Httle army forced its way onward to the westward, reaching the roaming grounds of the Buffalo, and beholding, in the distance, a lofty chain of mountains ! At last, despairing of ever reach- ing Mexico by that route, they reluctantly set out on their return to the Mississippi, which they reached in the Autumn of that year. Wintering in the villages they found upon the banks, and which they fortified, they set to work to build seven vessels for the trans- fer of the force. Francisco, a Genoese, v.dio had been throughout invaluable to De Soto in building bridges, rafts and boats, superin- tended the work. He was assisted b}' several soldiers, who had inhabited the sea-coast of Spain. Notwithstanding their combined efforts, it was not until the early part of * Irvine. 40 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. July that the vessels were completed, and the preparations made for taking their de- parture. Of the gallant host that had landed with De Soto, but three hundred and fifty survived to embark on the frail vessels comprising the fleet. It started from the mouth of the Arkansas river, upon the bosom of the Fath- er of Waters — the highway, as they hoped, to their distant home. The Indians had eagerly watched the pre- parations of the Spaniards ; and had sent word far and wide that their common enemies were about to depart, and thus evade the ven- geance they had hoped to wreak upon them. The tribes gathered from the surrounding country ; they harassed the Spaniards as they passed down the river; and when, at last, they reached the ocean, many had been killed by the arrows of the natives. From the mouth of the Mississippi, the Spaniards coasted along the shores of Louisiana and Texas for nearly two months, and at last reached the Spanish settlements in Mexico. Here they w^ere warmly received by the Viceroy, De Mcndozo, GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ^I who sent those who so desired to Spain, while others he took into his service. Poor Doiia Isabel, the wife of De Soto, dur- ing these three years, had never ceased to send fleet after fleet to seek and carry succor to her husband, but they returned without tidings of the Governor. At length, one of her faithful captains reached Vera Cruz, in October, 1543, and there learned the death of De Soto ; and that, of his brave men, but three hundred had reached Mexico alive. When this sad news reached Dona Isabel, the blow proved too great for her too bear ; and it is said she soon died of a broken heart. 1559 — DON TRISTAN DE LUNA. Not many years elapsed before the Spanish Monarch ordered the Viceroy of Mexico to prepare another expedition for the conquest and settlement of Florida. This expedition, which consisted of fifteen hundred men, set sail, under the command of Don Tristan de Luna, in the Spring of 1559, from the port of Vera Cruz. The fleet reached Pensacola Bay 42 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. in safety ; but a few clays after coming to an- chor was entirely wrecked, together with the greater part of the supphes. This misfortune, and the unfavorable reports of the country brought to De Luna by scouting parties, which he had sent into the interior, caused the gen- eral to render such accounts to the Viceroy as to induce him to recall the expedition — not, however, before its members had suffered pri- vations which equalled those of their prede- cessors. De Luna's expedition was the last sent by the Spanish to Florida. At that time the Spaniards regarded as Florida the whole shore of the Continent, from the frontier of Mexico to the Chesapeake. We will conclude this brief history of Florida by narrating only what occurred in the peninsula which now consti- tutes the State of that name. 1562 — THE HUGUENOT SETTLEMENTS. The year 1562 marked a new era in the his- tory of Florida and of the Continent. By the withdrawal of De Luna, there was left not a GUIDE TO FLORIDA. .^ single settlement of Europeans on the Conti- nent of North America beyond the boundaries of Mexico. That year, however, witnessed the first attempt at colonization ; and that, too, by the French. The Huguenots, wearied with strugghng against persecution, were seeking homes away from their native land. Encouraged by Ad- miral Coligny, the head of the Protestant party in France, an expedition for America was fitted out, under Capt. Jean Ribaut, and sailed in February, 1562. Ribaut, with his two vessels, entered the St. John's River on the 1st of jNIay, but remained here a short time only. He proceeded to the northward, until reaching Port Royal harbor, where he determined to found the Huguenot settlement. The site was selected upon an island, a fort erected, in which he left a small garrison, while he returned to France to obtain colon- ists and supplies for the settlement. On his arrival home, he found the Civil War at its height, which debarred his return to the suc- cor of the colony. The colonists, discouraged hy the long absence of their commander, put 44 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. to sea in a small pinnace which they had con- structed, in the mad hope of attempting to reach France. Fortunately they were rescued by an English vessel. Two years later, Co- ligny being again able to turn his attention to his favorite scheme of colonization, despatched three small vessels to Florida, under command of a companion of Ribaut, named Rene de Laudonniere. Laudonniere landed at the present site of St. Augustine ; but on the following day en- tered the St. John's River, where he deter- mined to found a settlement. The site chosen was at St. John's Bluff, just within the mouth of the River, where the re- mains of the works they constructed are still said to exist. Laudonniere erected a fort, which he named Fort Caroline, and from it made many excursions to the surrounding country, and seems to have kept on excellent terms with the Indians. He, however, ac- complished nothing; and, relying on receiving supplies from France, which of course did not come, the garrison was reduced to the verge of starvation. Their Indian friends got tired GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 45 of suppl3ing their wants, particularly when they found the stock of " Parisian notions " brought by them was exhausted ; they refused longer to bring in provisions. Had it not been for a lovely widow, the Queen of a neighbor- ing tribe, Laudonni^re and his companions would have inevitably perished. But the Queen, taking pity of their distress, sent them in the nick of time some boat-loads of corn and beans, which were gladly welcomed by Rene and his followers. Fairbanks tells us the fol- lowing : " In De Bray there is an engraving made from a sketch of Le Moyne's, who accompan- ied a deputation, representing her Majesty in her state procession. At the head appear two trumpeters blowing upon reeds. Then follow six chiefs bearing a canopied platform, on which is seated, shaded by a leafy canopy, her Majesty, in the person of a beautiful female. Around her neck is a cordon of pearls ; brace- lets and g^nklets adorn the person, et prcBtcrea nihil. On each side walk other chiefs, hold- ing large feather shades or fans ; beautiful young girls, bearing baskets of fruits and flow- 46 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ers, follow next to the Ouecn, and then war- riors and her household guards." In 1565, Coligny, to succor and render per- manent the colony in Florida, fitted out seven vessels, upon which he embarked six hundred and fifty persons; comprising not only the representatives of some of the best families of France, but many artisans and their families. The colonists carried with them seed, and im- plements wherewith to till the land ; indeed, every requisite for a permanent settlement. They sailed from Dieppe, under the command of Ribaut, on the 23d of May, 1565; but, en- countering stormy weather, it was not till the 29th of August that they reached Fort Caro- line, where they found Laudonniere on the eve of departing for France. In the meantime, whilst Coligny was fitting out this expedition, word had been carried to Spain that the French Huguenots, whom they looked upon as heretics, were on the point of seizing Florida, a land to which the Spaniards claimed exclusive right. Philip II. at once encouraged the fitting out of an expedition tc GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 47 thwart their purpose, and soon found the man whom he needed to accomplish this object. This was Pedro Menendcz, who, having been successful in several naval expeditions, had acquired considerable fame and wealth. His life had been blighted by the loss of a fa- vorite son, who had been shipwrecked on the coast of Florida, on board a treasure ship re- turniup from Mexico. In the hopes of finding his son, Menendez embarked his fortune in the new expedition, spending a million of ducats for its equipment. The King had been lavish in his promises to assist Menendez, but in the end furnished a single vessel, and two hundred men. In spite of this, Menendez set sail for Florida, from Cadiz, on the ist of July, 1565, with a fleet of thirty-four vessels. Many of them were ships of from six hundred to a thousand tons, the whole fleet carrying a force of nearly three thousand persons. It will be noticed that Ribaut's vessels had left France a month in advance of Menendcz, but the latter reached the coast of Florida on the same day as the French, though not with 48 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. the fleet with which he sailed from Cadiz ; for only a third of them were with him, the rest having been wrecked or dispersed. Menendez landed on the coast on the 28tli of August, 1565, the fete of St. Augustine, in whose honor he named his settlement — a name it retains at present. From the Indians, Menendez learned that the French were but a few leagues distant to the north, and at the mouth of St. John's river. The French heard of the arrival of their enemies, and sent out a vessel to reconnoitre. It soon returned, and reported to Ribaut that the Spaniards were engaged in landing at St. Augustine, and in fortifying the place. Ribaut at once resolved to get rid of so dangerous a neighbor by surprising him before he could strengthen his defences. Leaving a small gar- rison at Fort Caroline, he embarked his whole force ; and, on the loth of September, set sail for St. Augustine. No sooner had he started than a gale arose and drove him far beyond his destination. Menendez, meantime, had started overland to surprise Ribaut. He was guided by two Indian chiefs, enemies of Lau- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ^g donnierc. The country was quasi-impassable, made so by the heavy rains ; but Menendez persevered in the march, and at dawn of the third day they arrived at Fort Caroline. Without losing a moment, the Spaniards at- tacked the fort, which offered but a feeble re- sistance ; it was soon captured. An indis- criminate massacre of men, women and chil- dren took place ; that, too, to the lasting- dis- grace of the name of Menendez. Some of his prisoners he hung upon the neighboring trees, placiqg over them this inscription: " No por Franceses, sino por Luteranos." (" Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans.")* Menendez, having left at Fort Caroline a garrison of three hundred men, returned to St. Augustine, where, this victory over the Hu- guenots caused great rejoicings. In the midst of the gaieties, word was brought that Ribaut's fleet had been stranded at Matanzas Inlet, some distance below St. Augustine, and that his force was endeavoring to cross to the main- land. Menendez set his army in motion, and soon arrived at the scene of shipwreck. * Fairbanks. 3 go GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Here a long parley took place, the French doing their " possible to obtain terms of sur- render, by which Menendez would spare their lives and furnish them means to return to their own country." All that could be obtained from him was, " that he would treat them as God directed him." Two hundred of Ribaut's companions, considering the tei ms extremely suspicious, made their escape in the night, to the southward. In the morning, Ribaut, most of his officers, and one hundred and fifty men, unconditionally surrendered to Menen- dez, having faith in his clemency. The French claim that Ribaut was promised his life and the lives of his followers, but this the Spanish historians deny. At all events, by the orders of the general, the shipwrecked soldiers were marched into the woods in detached parties and cruelly butchered. The two hundred who had fled, made their way to Point Canaveral, where they hastily threw up some works to defend them ; and then commenced building a vessel from the materials of a wreck which they found there. Upon learning of their whereabouts, Menen- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 5 1 dez sent them word that if the}" would surren- der, he would protect them and treat them as Spaniards. Most of them accepted his terms, and, singular to narrate, the Spanish comman- der kept his word. They became a part of the colony, and afterwards some of them re- turned to France. The fearful massacres perpetrated by Gov- nor Menendez created considerable excite- ment throughout Europe; but Spain ap- proved of the deed, which was commended by Philip II. and his people as a righteous act. France made numerous demands upon the Crown of Spain to revenge the murder of their countrymen; but Charles IX. and his Court felt little sympathy for the misfortunes of the Huguenots, and treated the matter wnth indifference. jNIenendez, having disposed of Ribaut, turn- ed his attention to strengthening the defences of St. Augustine, and placing the settlement on a permanent footing. A strong fort was built, a cathedral and other buildings erected, and magistrates and others appointed to ad- minister the government of the province. 52 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. He then set out to explore the shores of the peninsula in search of his long-lost son ; and for months persevered in the task. He visited innumerable bays and inlets ; and, through his interpreters, sought among the Indian tribes information which might shed light upon the fate of his child. At last, to his great joy, he was told that, near Cape Florida, seven Spaniards, shipwrecked years before, were living with the Indians. Reach- ing the Indian Settlement, Menendez was bitterly disappointed to find his son was not among them. Sick at heart, he invited the seven Spaniards — who had been with the natives twenty years — on board his vessel, and returned to St, Augustine. DE GOURGES. In 1567, Menendez deemed it to his interest to visit Spain, and ordered a vessel to be built to convey him thither. By his command, this craft was of twenty tons burthen. In this little yacht, which would have done credit to herself and her builders in a regatta GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 53 of the present day, jNlenendez ran to tlie Azores in seventeen days, and landed in Spain after the shortest passage of the period. At the Spanish Court he was received with the highest honors ; but when he asked for material aid ftjr the struggling colony, and to be reimbursed for the enormous outlay he had made in crushing the Lutheran pirates — as the Huguenots were then termed — he found them slow to respond to his demands. For more than a year he remained in Spain, and at last succeeded " in getting his bill honor- ed," besides being made Governor of Cuba. He arrived at St. Augustine in the Spring of 1568, and learned with grief and rage that a serious accident had happened to his faith- ful garrison at Fort Caroline ; nothing less than the massacre of the entire party, by De Gourges, the Huguenot. Dominic de Gourges was a brave soldier ; from his early youth he had led a life of adven- ture ; captured by the Spaniards in battle, he had been made a galley-slave. He was also taken by the Turks, but was afterwards re- captured by his countrymen. 54 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Returning from a successful voyao:e to Brazil, he arrived in France to learn of the massacre of the French at Fort Carohne. From that moment he determined to devote his life and fortune to avenging that dastardly act. De Gourges did not ask the assistance of the French Government for his proposed ex- pedition ; he carefully concealed his designs, but made his preparations with all possible haste. Having secured a permit for a voyage to Africa, to obtain a cargo of slaves, he en- listed about one hundred and eighty soldiers and sailors for the purpose. After a long and stormy voyage, De Gour- ges arrived with his three vessels, at Fernan- dina, then called La Seine by the French. It was there that he made his preparations for avenging his countrymen and co-religionists. Among his troops was one who had accom- panied the unfortunate Laudonniere, and who understood the language of the natives. This proved a fortunate circumstance ; for no sooner had the vessels anchored in the beauti- ful harbor, than the Indians assembled on the GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 55 beach to contest the landing of the detested Spaniards, as they supposed De Gourges' party to be. But the above-mentioned soldier explained to the chief, Satourioura, the nat- ure of the expedition. He was pleased with the news, and promised to rally to De Gour- ges' aid thousands of warriors, who would aid the French in exterminating the common enemy. Then they brought to the French a lad, one Peter De Bre, who had escaped fi-om the massacre at Fort Caroline, and had come to them. He proved of great service as an interpreter and in obtaining correct informa- tion as to the strength and position of the Spaniards.* The preparations being completed ; accom- panied by the forces of his Indian ally, De Gourges set out for Fort Caroline. H e reach- ed it, and surprised the garrison, which was unprepared for a land attack. Finding themselves surrounded, the gar- rison threw down their arms and attempted to make good their escape. They were, how- ever, either slain or captured. Taking the * Fairbanks. 56 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. survivors to the spot where Menendez, three years before, had executed the Huguenots, De Gourges hanged the Spaniards to the branches of the oaks ; and, taking down the former inscription placed over the French bodies by the Spaniards, he replaced it with the following ; " I do this, not as unto Span- iards, nor as to outcasts, but as to traitors, thieves, and murderers." Dc Gourges and his followers then re-em- barked, amid a perfect ovation from the In- dians, and safely returned to France. This humiliating blow of De Gourges, to- gether with other discouraging events, damp- ed Menendez's enthusiasm for colonizing. He, nevertheless, made many excursions to the surrounding country, and even reached the shores of the Chesapeake. The Colony, not- withstanding, did not flourish ; so, when called to Spain to take command of the Spanish fleet, he was pleased to leave Florida for ever. He died soon after reaching Spain, in 1574, in the fifty-fifth year of his age. Menendez left the government of Florida in the hands of his relative, the Marquis de Me- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ry nendez ; and, from that time until 1586, its histoiy presents little of interest. In that year Sir Francis Drake, the English freebooter, on his way to England, surprised and captured St. Augustine, which, at the time, was a well-built and flourishing town. The family of Menendez continued governing Florida for nearly one hundred 3^ears. In 1665, an English pirate. Captain John Davis, captured and pillaged the town. South Carolina, having been settled by the Enghsh, constant troubles arose between the Colonists and the Spaniards. Governor Moore, in 1702, attacked St. Augustine, but met with a disastrous repulse. In 1740, Gov- ernor Oglethorpe, of Georgia, also met wdth a like result before the walls of that city. In 1762, Cuba fell into possession of the English ; and when peace was declared 'during the fol- lowing year, Great Britain transferred it to Spain in exchange for Florida. Captain James Grant was the first English Governor. One of his earliest acts w^as the issue of a proclamation referring to the salu- brity of the climate, and the extreme age at- 3* 58 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. tained by the inhabitants of the coimtr}'.* In this, and in other ways, he endeavored to attract emigration to the shores of Florida. In 1766, a certain Dr. Turnbull, a Scotchman, having obtained from the Crown the conces- sion of a large tract of land below St. Augus- tine, he called it New Smyrna. To it he brought, from Smyrna and the Balearic Isles, fifteen hundred Greeks and Minorcans, whom he settled there. Ten years later, these colonists secured from the magistrates at St. Augustine, a de- cree cancelling their agreement with Turn- bull ; and almost the entire number removed to St. Augustine, and colonized, where their descendants still remain, forming the most industrious and interesting portion of the population. In 1 82 1, Florida was ceded to the United States. Of the long wars with the Seminole Indians it is unnecessary to remark — the visitor to Florida will continue to find among the old inhabitants many who have gone through those bloody scenes, and * Fairbanks. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 59 who take interest in narrating them to strangers. We will here terminate our brief sketch of the history of Florida, referring the reader for more ample information, to the " History of Florida " by Fairbanks ; and to Irving's Conquest thereof — of which the writer has availed himself for much of the foregoing in- formation. FLORIDA; ITS GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE, ETC. Florida is the most southern of the States of the Union, and extends down to latitude 25° N. The peninsula is four hundred miles in length, with an average width of about one hundred miles. It contains 59,268 square miles of territory, and a population of about two hundred thousand ; the white and colored being nearl}'^ equal in numbers, the whites slightly predominating. The surface of the country is remarkably level. The lands in the upper portion of the State, near the boundary of Georgia, are of a rolling character. A large proportion of the land is covered with forests of pine and c}'- press. The most remarkable feature of the State is its numerous navigable streams and (60) GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 6 1 lakes, and its wonderful mineral springs, which probably gave rise to the fable of the Fountain of Rejuvenancy, to which Ponce de Leon aspired possession. The Indians, from the earliest times, had resorted to these foun- tains for medicinal purposes, and knew well their beneficial effects. Even now the waters continue to enjoy their ancient reputation, and thither strangers repair in search of health. These springs are the largest in the world — excepting those mentioned by Livingstone as being the source of the Nile. Williams, in his history of Florida, thus describes two of the hundreds which exist in that State. " The Wakulla River rises about ten miles N. W. from St. Mark's, from one of the finest springs in Florida. It is of an oval form, the largest diameter of which is about six rods. It is of unknown depth and perfectly trans- parent. In looking into it, the color resem- bles a clear blue sky, except near the border, where it has a slight tinge of green, from the reflection of the surrounding verdure, which overhangs it in drooping branches and waving 62 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. festoons. The Eastern side presents a rugged rocky precipice ; all else is in an abyss of boundless depth. Squadrons of fish are seen careering round ' their own world ' in perfect security. " The big Spring of Chipola offers a very different scene. Here a river bursts from the earth, with a giant force, from large masses of rugged rocks, with furious rapidity, as though impatient of restraint. The orifice opens to the southwest from a high bank cov- ered with large oak trees. This orifice is thirty feet by eight feet wide. A large rock divides the mouth almost into two parts. This spring at once forms a river six rods wide and eight feet deep, which joins the Chipola River at about ten miles distance." The River St. John's is one of the most re- markable and beautiful in our country. For a hundred and fifty miles its average width is nearly two miles ; and, in many places, it en- larges into lakes ten and twenty miles in width. Of its many beauties we shall have occasion to speak further on. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. CLIMATE. 63 The wonderful salubrity of the climate of Florida is its greatest attraction, and is des- tined to make it to America what the South of France and Italy are to Europe, — the refuge of those who seek to escape the rigor of a Northern winter. The sudden changes ex- perienced at Nice or Florence are unknown in Florida. So well convinced are our physicians of this fact, that they now advise their patients to seek health in Florida, within three days' reach of their homes and friends, in lieu of going abroad at a stormy season of the year. Florida, as a resort for those suffering from pulmonary disease, is preferable to any other portion of America. The census of i860 fur- nished the following evidence on this subject. It gives the average number of deaths from Consumption as follows : One in 254 in Massachusetts. One in 473 in New York. One in 757 in Virginia. One in 1139 in Minnesota. One in 1447 in Florida. 64 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. The following Summary of Observations, taken from the " Army Meteorological Register" are introduced to show the equability of the climate of Florida, as compared with that of other parts of the United States: Jan. 57.03 Feb. Mar. Apr. 68.78 May. 73-50 June St. Augustine, Fla.. 59-94 63-34 7936 Tampa Bay, " . 61.53 63-54 67.72 71.82 7664 79.46 Key West, " . 66.68 68.88 72.88 75.38 79.10 81.63 West Point, N. Y.. 28.28 28.80 3763 48.70 59.82 68.41 Fort Snelling, Min. 13.76 17-57 31.41 56.34 58.97 68.46 July. 80.90 Aug. 80.56 Sept. 78.60 Oct. Nov. Dec. Year St. Augustine, Fla.. 71.88 64.12 57.26 69.61 Tampa Bay, " . 80.72 80.43 7828 74.02 66.94 61.99 71.92 Key West, 83.00 82.90 81.92 78.11 74.66 71 03 76.51 West Point, N. Y.. 73 75 71.83 64.31 53-04 12.23 31.98 50.73 Fort Snelling, Min. 73.40 70.05 58 86 47-15 31.67 16.8,) 46.54 The above indicates the mean tempera- ture, the result of over twenty years' observa- tions. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 65 The sulphur baths at Green Cove Springs, and other points in Florida, have been pro- nounced as efficacious for the cure of Rheu- matism as those of Sharon and Richfield, whilst St. Augustine is the refuge of those afflicted with that dreadful disease. Asthma. We have never heard of an instance where re- lief vsras not effected. HOW TO REACH FLORIDA. The choice of a route to Florida is, of course, the first and most important consider- tion to those who intend going thither. Ac- cording to our opinion, the Steamers of the New York and Charleston, and New York and Savannah lines, offer the best mode of conveyance. They are in all respects the most advisable whether for the invalid or pleasure seeker. The following comprise the vessels running to the places named, and form a splendid fleet of first-class ocean steamers ; ^ GUIDE TO FLORIDA. NEW YORK AND CHARLESTON LINE. " Manhattan "— M. S. Woodhull, Commander. " Champion "— R. W. Lockwood, " " Charleston " — James Berry, " '* James Adger "— T. J. Lockwood, " " Georgia " Holmes, " i' South Carolina "—J. T. Beckett, " Sailing from Pier 29 North River, at 3 p. m., every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Jas. W. Quin- TARD & Co., Agents, corner of Warren and West Streets; or Wm. P. Clyde, 6 Bowling Green. NEW YORK AND SAVANNAH LINES. '' Leo " — Dearborn, Commander. " Virgo "— Bulkley, " Every Tuesday, from foot of Wall Street, at 3 p. m. Murray, Ferris & Co., Agents, 61 and 62 South Street. " Herman Livingston " — Cheeseman, Commander. " General Barnes "— Mallory, " Every Thursday, from Pier 43, North River, at 3 p. M. Wm. R. Garrison, Agent, 5 Bowling Green. " San Jacinto " — Hazard, Commander. " San Salvador " — Nickerson, " GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 67 Every Saturday, from Pier 43, North River, at 3 p. m. Wm. R. Garrison, Agent, 5 Bowling Green. We refer to advertisements of above com- panies, which will be found at the end of this volume ; and in the event of any further infor- mation being desired, the traveller cannot do better than apply at one of the different offices named, where he will be treated with cour- tesy, and placed in possession of any informa- tion he desires. The voyage to Charleston or Savannah is a short one, it seldom exceeding sixty hours in time ; and experience has proven that the in- valid almost invariably improves at sea. The vessels are provided with an excellent table and careful attendance, such comforts as it is impossible to procure on any other route. For those in good health, the trip is a most enjoyable one. The class of passengers avail- 68 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ing themselves of these steamers are invariably pleasant and agreeable companions — tourists from ail parts of the United States, Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, Cincinnatti, etc — scarcely a city but is repre- sented on board of them. Travelers who go by land should leave either by the morning train at 9, or by the 9:30 evening Express, on the New Jersey R. R. The morning train connects at Balti- more with the Steamers of the Bay Line for Norfolk, the least fatiguing route. The cap- ital suppers and comfortable state-rooms fur- nished on board that line will long dwell in the memory of the Southern traveler. The evening train carries the passenger via Wash- ington and Richmond. Until recently there was no comfortable resting-place on the road south of Norfolk or Richmond, but now the Purcell House at Wilmington, North Carohna, supplies the want ; and, under the care of Colonel Davis, the weary traveler will soon recuperate. Invalids, and others not pressed for time, should divide the journey thus — Leave New GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 69 York by the morning train, and sleep at Washington ; pass the following night at Richmond, the third at Wilmington, arriving at Charleston the fourth day. The Arlington at Washington, and Exchange at Richmond, are strictly first-class hotels. A well-supplied lunch-basket will not be amiss when starting from Richmond to Wil- mington, as it is impossible to obtain a good meal on the road. At Charleston, travelers will find Omni- buses waiting at the Steamsliip Wharf, and Railway Depot, to convey them to the various Hotels, and to the Steamers of the Florida Line. CHARLESTON. Charleston is one of the oldest cities of the Continent (settled in 1679), and is also one of the most interesting and enjoyable. Its situa- tion, almost directly upon' the sea, with the waves of the Atlantic in full view from its wharves, is unsurpassed. Its harbor is a fine one, with ample water front to supply the 70 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. demands of its commerce. Charleston has a beautiful promenade, on the apex of the peninsula on which the city is built, and from it can be viewed Fort Sumter and the islands forming the entrance to the Bay — Morris and Sullivan. Approaching Charleston by steamer, the city seems to rise from the sea. On misty mornings, the effects of mirage in the har- bor are very remarkable. The city then appears raised high above the horizon, and entirely detached from it — whilst Sumter seems thrice its former size. On one or two occasions, during the war, this phenomenon spread consternation through the city, as the whole blockading squadron was made to ap- pear within the obstructions, and fast ap- proaching the wharves. The situation of Charleston for commercial purposes is admir- able, being nearer to the ocean than most other Atlantic cities of importance. Its har- bor, which is capacious and secure, is easy of access to vessels of large tonnage. Indeed, Charleston possesses all the requi- sites of a great commercial seaport, and there GUIDE 7V FLORIDA. 71 is no doubt that, once relieved from her pres- ent exorbitant taxation, she will make rapid strides in prosperity. Three great lines of railway connect the city with the interior, by which the products of the South and South- west can be brought to her wharves at the lowest rates. The recent discoveries of rich deposits of phosphate rock in the districts about the city, have proven to be of great importance, and many millions of dollars and thousands of laborers are profitabl}' em- ployed in digging and preparing it for mar- ket. A very erroneous impression prevails as to the extent of business transacted in Charles- ton, it being far greater than is generally sup- posed. Her wholesale trade in dr}' goods, groceries, etc., is- very large — nearly as great as before the war, and greater than any other Southern port, except New Orleans. She re- ceives a large quantity of cotton and lumber, naval stores, rice, and phosphates. In spite of bad government, high taxes, the ravages of fire, and the unfortunate investments in Confede- rate " securities," Charleston is undoubtedly 72 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. progressing, and but few years will be requir- ed to restore her to her former position. A growing confidence in the final restora- tion of an honest State government is again attracting capital from abroad ; and many transactions have of late taken place in real estate, within the city, on terms which, to those accustomed to the prices current in Northern cities, would seem preposterously low. Fine dwellings, with beautiful gardens attached thereto, are selling for from six to ten thousand dollars — in many instances the same buildings having originally cost double that sum. The resources of Charleston for a pleasant sojourn are varied, and visitors, in great num- bers, avail themselves of them during the winter months. The hotels have always been celebrated for their comfort and good cheer. Unfortunately one of the favorite resorts, the ■' Mills' House," is now closed ; but the ■' Charleston," a strictly first-class hotel, is kept in excellent style, and has been recently en- larged to meet the demand of increased business. It is admirablv managed and ap- o O O ^-] o o < o g liii^*Si GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 73 pointed, and the building is one of the orna- ments of the city. The Artesian Baths attached to the house form one of its greatest attractions. The waters, which flow direct from the wells, are equal in softness to the most famous springs of Germany. In the building is an office where tickets to Florida can be obtained. At the office of the hotel carriages can be procured to visit several places of interest in and about the city. The " Pavilion Hotel " is a well-kept, com- fortable house, to whose advertisement we call attention. OBJECTS OF INTEREST. The public institutions of Charleston are numerous, and well worthy of a visit. The Orphan Asylum is an exceedingly fine build- ing, from whose cupola a most extensive view of the city and harbor can be obtained. St. Nicholas' and St. Philip's Churches are fine edifices — the former was built from designs 74 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. of Sir Christopher Wren, who was also the architect of the building known as the Old Post-office. This building is one in which many prom- inent historical incidents were enacted. It was the Government House in the Colonial days ; and during the Revolution its cellars were the dungeon in which the British con- fined the prominent patriots — from it Hayne was led to execution. Charlestonians regard the building with interest and affection, and hailed with pleasure the act of the Washing- ton government in repairing it, for it had fallen into almost total ruin. A great number of shells, during the bombardment, had tra- versed it from roof to cellar. It is again used as the Post-office, and, though much altered, still bears traces of its original architecture. The church-yards of Charleston contain many ancient and interesting monuments, some bearing exceedingly quaint inscriptions. Calhoun's tomb is in St. Philip's yard. The Battery, lined with rows of beautiful residences, is the favorite afternoon promen- ade. At sunset, the visitor, leaning over the GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 75 parapet rail, watching the waves break against the sea-wall, cannot but appreciate the beauty of the scene. Seaward lies Sumter, with a fleet of vessels, large and small, passing to and fro around the fortress. On the right is James' Island, with the grove of giant pine trees, known as the Hundred Pines, standing- out in bold relief against the sky ; whilst, look- ing up the Ashley, a view is obtained of a beautiful river, with banks lined with groves of magnolia and live oaks. King Street is the Broadway of Charles- ton, where the traveller can supply himself from stores well filled with every commo- dity. The markets form a point of interest, and should be visited. On Saturday night the scene presented is curious, and peculiarly Charlestonian. There are several beautiful drives in the environs of Charleston ; to Magnolia Ceme- tery, — to Lowndes' Avenue, to Belvidere, — to the Four Mile House, and to the Ship-yard. The roads, in most places, are bordered by live oaks, magnolias, and pines, from whose ^6 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. branches hang masses of gray moss, present- ing a most unique appearance — whilst, in the Spring, the hedges are filled with wild flow- ers — the beautiful Cherokee rose and yellow jessamine growing in tropical profusion, and cHmbing high among the branches of the trees. The Charleston phosphates afford interest to the agriculturist and the naturalist, who should not fail to visit the region of theif whereabouts. A recent work says : " In this region are found the most won- derful remains of ancient and extinct species of animals. There are whole acres richly studded with fossils. Among these have been recognized the bones of the Mammoth, Mas- todon, Megatherium, Mylodon, Megalonyx, Phocodon, and several varieties of the Sauri; also teeth and bones of the shark, and numer- ous other fishes in great variety ; also teeth and bones of the horse, dog, sheep, ox and hog, differing but little, if at all, from those belonging to our present domestic animals. Pieces of pottery have been discovered com- bined with stone hatchets, etc., in the same GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 77 bed, and almost identical in their character with remains of the extinct animals, etc., found some years since, near Abbeville, in France. It is said that human bones were found, but the evidence to that effect is not positive. This strange collection, this sepul- alire of the ages, where animals, now extinct, sleep side by side with others ; the ancestors, perhaps, of our daily companions — where men, beasts, reptiles and fishes, would seem to have found a common grave — these fossils occur in the post-pleiocene strata. They have been described in the scientific journals by Pro- fessor Holmes, whose articles attracted many savans ; among them, Agassiz, Count Portalis and Leidy." A visit to the Phosphate works in the vici- nity of the city, will well repay one. The rock can be procured in Charleston, without the labor of a journey to the diggings. The trade in fertilizers has assumed extensive pro- portions. Since its discovery, its production has reached a figure representing several millions of dollars annually. No one should leave Charleston without ^8 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. visiting the numerous points of interest in the harbor, made memorable by the stubborn con- flicts between the Confederates and the forces of the Federal Army and Navy. The excur- sion to Forts Sumter and Moultrie, and to the batteries on Morris, Sullivan and James' Islands, is a delightful one, and can be safely made in the comfortable yacht Eleanor, which makes several trips daily from the Florida Steamship Wharf. SAVANNAH. The visitor will find Savannah a beautiful city, abounding in pleasant walks and drives. It is one of the most prosperous cities of the South ; one which does an enormous business in merchandize, cotton and lumber. Its wharves, during most of the year, are crowd- ded with vessels. The situation of Savannah, her perfect rail- road facilities, etc., guarantees her a brilhant future. She already receives nearly one sixth of the cotton crop, and new avenues to trade are constantly increasing. Much of the pros- o < > < 1-4" O GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 79 perity of the city can be directly traced to the liberal course pursued by the manager of her great railroad, " The Georgia Central." This road, with its branches and connections, keeps up constant communication with Augusta, Macon, Atlanta, Columbus, Montgomery, and New Orleans, etc. ; it is pronounced to be the best-managed road in the Southern country. Savannah possesses several excellent hotels — the Pulaski, long considered one of the best at the South, has recently been put in com- plete order — refurnished, and many improve- ments made in its interior. On the oppo- site side of Johnson Square, will be found the Screven House, which shares with the Pulas- ki a well-deserved popularity. It is admira- bly kept. The Pavilion, — beautifully situated on Bull Street, is now in the hands of Mr. Fernandez, whom visitors to the Pulaski in former years will no doubt remember. It is spoken of as excellently kept ; and its charges, ,as will be seen from the advertisement, are moderate. 8o GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Savannah derives its principal beauty from Its wide streets flanked with magnificent trees. The oak, the magnolia, and the Pride of India, shade the way to pedestrians, making walking agreeable. Forsyth Park is un- doubtedly one of the prettiest spots in Amer- ica ; it is a favorite resort of the beau-monde of the city. At early evening the visitor will see the loveliest faces; such beauties as will compare favorably with those of Baltimore. Several pleasant excursions can be made from Savannah ; one to Bonaventure, a beau- tiful cemetery, shaded by the most remarka- ble grove of live-oaks in the world. Those splendid trees flank the avenues; their branches interlacing high overhead, thus form- ing arches whose symmetry is admirable. From every branch hang festoons of Spanish moss, looking as though the whole grove were draped in mourning in respect to the dead who repose within their everlasting shadow. The place is beautiful beyond des- cription ; it impresses the visitor with gloomy thoughts ; one feels relieved when, emerging therefrom, he visits Thunderbolt, where on FORSYTH PARK, SAVANNAH. (To face p. Ml).) GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 8 1 the pleasant bank of the Vernon river his gloom is soon overcome. The oysters found there are excellent, and a lunch or dinner can at all times be obtained. The ladies need not be afraid of the milk-punches; they form a specialty of the place, and their fair sisters of Savannah consider them "quite the thing." White Bluff, ten miles from the city, is reached by an excellent well-shaded road ; a da}^ can be agreeably spent there. Fish din- ners are the speciality at Mrs. Sylvester's ; they are such as Greenwich never gave to Londoners. From Charleston and Savannah, the fine New York built Steamers "Dictator" and " City Point " furnish a tri-weekly line to Flor- ida. We do not hesitate to pronounce the route the cheapest, safest and only comfort- able way of reaching the different resorts in that State. By any other route, many changes of conveyance are made imperative ; causing great inconvenience and suffering to the in- valid traveller. By embarking on the " Dic- tator" or "City Point" this is avoided, and the visitor is landed, without change of convey- 82 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ance at the very doors of the principal hotels of Florida. The steamers proceed directly to: — Fernandina, Jacksonville, Magnolia, Green Cove Springs, Picolata, Tocoi, Palatka, Connecting with cars at Tocoi for — St. Augustine, And at Palatka with comfortable steamers for — Enterprise, Mellonville, Sanford, and the Indian River Country, as well as with boats for the Oclawaha River These steamers are prepared expressly for the Florida route, and are unsurpassed for speed, safety, and comfort. They are under the command of experienced officers, Cap- tains Vogel and Fitzgerald, who have spent GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 83 most of their life on this route, never mcetinir with an accident during the many years of their service thereon. A large sum was spent, last summ.er, in re- fitting these vessels with new boilers, and in supplying them with the latest improvements for comfort and convenience. The state- rooms are clean and comfortable, whilst the table is provided with every luxury that Charleston, Savannah, and Florida markets can produce. Leaving Charleston in the evening, the steamers arrive at Savannah earl^^ in the morning, and leave soon after for Fernandina. Possessing great speed, they rapidl}^ run along the Sea Islands of Georgia ; and, as westerly winds prevail during the wdnter, the traveler is — from the smoothness of the sea, and the balmy temperature of the air — reminded of the Mediterranean. The effect is beneficial to the invalid, whose strength is renewed, and appetite increased by the change ; so much so, as to do justice to the excellent meals supplied by the steamers. New York supplies them with beef, mutton, and poultry ; whilst Florida, 84 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Georgia, and South Carolina, are put under contribution for fish and game. We have known several persons who, for months before leaving home, were unable to eat a good repast, heartily enjoy their meals during the entire trip from Charleston to Florida, arriving at their destination much im- proved, and in striking contrast to others who were half the winter in recovering from the fatigues of reaching the St. John's river by land. A uniform temperature is kept up in the sa- loons and state-rooms of the vessels, which are heated by steam. This will be appreciated by those who have experienced the varied temperature in railway cars, heated by a stove. The decks of the " Dictator," and " City Point," in the traveling season, present an ani- mated appearance, as the vessel glides along the coast of Georgia. The passengers group about, conversing on the subject of their voy- age ; listening to the experience of those who are familiar with the localities to be visited ; or whiling away the hours playing cards or GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 85 chess, etc. Boston, New York, and Philadel- phia, are often found represented in the same party ; and under the pleasant influences of the southern air, good fellowship prevails. The invalids, who find themselves in better health and spirits, propose hunting and fishing par- ties to the Indian River, and elsewhere. In- deed, the very nature of the conversation, and the hopeful looks of the sufferers, tell, already, the effects of the climate. FERNANDINA. In the evening, the steamer reaches Fer- nandina, which is beautifully situated on Ame- lia Island. It possesses an excellent harbor, easy of access to vessels of large tonnage ; it has a considerable and increasing trade in cotton and lumber. It is the terminus of the railroad to Cedar Keys, where a line of steamers connects it with Havana and New Orleans. The Ridell House and Norwood House arc well-kept establishments. From Fernandina, the traveler can reach 86 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Quincy, Tallahassee, Live Oak and other points on the interior, by the " Jacksonville, Pensacola, and Mobile Railroad." ST. JOHN'S RIVER. A FEW hours after leaving- Fernandina, the steamer enters the beautiful St. John's. Near the entrance is to be seen the St. John's Bluff, the site of Fort Caroline, and of the scenes rendered memorable by the massacres of Spaniard and Huguenot. The officers of the steamers are well versed in the history of the country, and are willing to impart much in- teresting information to the traveler. They will always be found ready to promote the welfare of the travelers, and to make the trip a comfortable and pleasant one. Ladies and children are especially cared for by an atten- tive stewardess, whose duty it is to see that their wants are supplied. The trip up the St. John'.s is unlike any other — the river presenting scenes entirely novel. The stream is in most places two miles in width, and often spreads out into great GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ^7 lakes from twelve to twenty miles wide. The St. John's is undoubtedly the most beautiful of southern rivers, and was well named by the Indians " the String of Pearls." The steamer makes the trip from the mouth of the river to Palatka in about six hours, stopping at all the principal landings, which we shall now des- cribe. JACKSONVILLE. This is the most important town in Florida, and is the great entrepot of the trade 'of the middle and eastern sections of the State. Its communication with the interior is perfect, not onl}^ by the St. John's River, but also by an extended line of railway, connecting it with Tallahassee and other important places. Were this road and its branches managed in the in- terest of Jacksonville, a very large cotton trade would centre here ; but, at present, the strange spectacle is presented of an important sea-port, the natural outlet of the product of an enormous extent of the finest cotton-fields in the South, doing comparatively nothing in the great staple. We learn an effort is being made by the merchants of Jacksonville, which 88 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. cannot but receive the support of every one interested in the future of the city and state, to brinor back to its natural channel a business which would create a degree of prosperity little dreamed of. As it is, Jacksonville can boast the most progressive business commu- nity of any town of its size in the South, and the rapid strides it has made within the past few years, would do credit to any city of the North or West. Jacksonville is the centre of the great lum- ber trade of Florida ; it employs an immense number of vessels carrying cargoes of South- ern pine to all parts of the world. These, and the innumerable steamers pl^'ing on the St. John's, gives the river a most animated and agreeable appearance. During the past two years, the number of visitors to Jacksonville has doubled ; but, for- tunately the hotel accommodations have kept pace with the demand. The Grand National is an excellent Hotel re- cently completed and admirably situated, com- manding an extended view of the river. Its proprietor, Mr. McGinley is a celebrated host at the South. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 89 The " St. James " is a fine building, of im- posing appearance, capable of accommodating about three hundred guests. It contains many large, well furnished, and comfortable apartments, and is very highly spoken of. Its present proprietor is Mr. J. B. Campbell, of Massachusetts, which fact alone will carry to it many guests. The " Me.tropohtan," situated close to the landing place of the Florida steamers, is also a new hotel, well appointed and admirably kept. There are also numerous boarding houses, said to be exceedingly good, and where the prices are reasonable. The best are said to be, Mrs. Hudnall's, St. John's House ; INIrs. Buffington's; Mrs. Atkins', and Mrs. Day's; whilst the " Sisters of St. Joseph " have a house apart from their Academy, where a moderate number can be accommodated and made very comfortable. The traveler will be able to spend the time very agreeably at Jacksonville. There is a daily communication with the North, and let- ters and newspapers are regularly received. The telegraph is also in operation, affording. ^O GUIDE TO FLORIDA. at all times, the means of immediate intelli- gence. At the "Ambler Bank" one can ne- gotiate his business, whilst Adams' Express is at hand to take charge of the parcels. Boat- ing, sailing, and drives to the pleasant suburbs of the town, will help to wile away the days. Before leaving for the interior, it would be well to provide such little supplies as old travelers are wont to make. The gentlemen will find at Bettelini and Togni's an excellent supply of wines and delicacies. This is ex- plained, when we say they have one or two vessels trading between Jacksonville and France, bringing them an unadulterated sup- ply of various kinds. The ladies will find at Furchgott, Benedict & Co.'s a good selection of dry goods, etc. ; and at Greenleaf 's, a stock of Florida curiosities, from which selections of souvenirs of their trip can be obtained, such as alligator teeth, St. Augustine sea-beans, curlew wings, plumes for hats, etc., etc. ST. JOHN'S RIVER. The trip up the river is one of the most GUIDE TO FLORJDA. 9 1 delightful possible. By the \va3% it should not be forgotten that " up the river," is down the river, as the St. John's rises in the Ever- glades south, and flows almost due north ; the reverse of the course pursued by most rivers in the world. The shores of the St. John's are wanting in what forms the great beauty of the Hudson — the hills and mountains, to enhance the grand- cur of the landscape. Here the banks seldom rise more than twenty feet above its placid waters. The scene is, however, most pictur- esque ; and, as the steamer glides over the mirror-like surface, the passengers are loud in their expressions of admiration. From time to time groves of orange trees, cov- ered with golden fruit, are passed — the con- trast between them and the forests of oak, pine, and cypress, which fringe the shores, making an agreeable variety. MANDARIN. Mandarin, the first landing-place of any im- portance, is a small village on the east bank, Q2 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. nearly an hour's sail from Jacksonville. It is one of the earliest settlements, but suffered much during the Indian troubles. It pos- sesses several fine orange groves, one of the finest of which belongs to Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, who spends her winters here. Several Indian mounds are to be found in the neighborhood. HIBERNIA. Hibernia, about 8 miles further on, is one of the most pleasant resorts. Mrs. Fleming has here an excellent house. The country about abounds in beautiful groves of oak, etc. MAGNOLIA. Magnolia, 27 miles from Jacksonville, on the west bank, is a prepossessing place, which possesses an excellent and well -patronized hotel, one much resorted to by Northern visitors. GREEN COVE SPRINGS. On rounding Magnolia Point, the steamer GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 93 enters a beautiful bay where, in full view, lies Green Cove Springs, the Saratoga of the St. John's. It is already a favorite resort, which possesses several of the best hotels in Florida. Its importance is assured; and sev- eral wealthy families have expressed the in- tention of building winter residences in its neighborhood. The " Clarendon House " is admirably kept by Harris, Applegate & Co. It has attached to it the celebrated Warm Sulphur Spring — the great attraction to the place. The spring discharges 3,000 gallons of water per minute, at a temperature of 78°. This water is said to be as valuable for its medicinal properties as that of Sharon or Richfield, and is reported to have effected many remarkable cures. The " Union House " is also a first-class hotel, ex- tensively patronized by New Yorkers and Bostonians. PICOLATA. Picolata is the site of a Spanish settlement, made shortly after the founding of St. Agus- tine. It consists of but one house. 94 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. TOCOI. Tocoi is the terminus of the St. Augustine Railroad ; it is here that passangers for that city disembark. The road in question, we learn, has been put in good order, and the managers promise a quick and comfortable transit to the ancient city. ORANGE MILLS. is about 65 miles from Jacksonville, and is prettily located on the east bank. Mr. Cole's residence here is surrounded by orange groves. PALATKA. Palatka, the terminus of the route of the "Dictator" and " City Point," is a flourishing town of about fifteen hundred inhabitants. It is situated on the west bank of the St. John's, 75 miles from Jacksonville. Passengers, bound beyond, are transferred to the steamer " Star- light " and other boats bound for Enterprise, GUIDE TO FLORIDA. q^ Mellonville, Indian River, etc., as well as for all other points on the Ocklawaha. Palatka is highly recommended by physicians as a resort for invalids. Palatka possesses two excellent hotels— the " St. John's " and the '' Putnam House." A recent writer in Harper s thus describes his experience at the former. Arriving- at Pa- latka he found the " Starlight " so crowded that no state-room was to be had. " This apparent misfortune proved our greatest happiness ; for, lying over at Palatka, at the St. John's Hotel, we obtained dehcious food wherewith to assuage the pangs of hun- ger. Think not, good reader, this is an un- necessary exhibition of feeling over a small matter ; for great had been our suffering, and great was our delight. Delicious waffles, noble wild turkey (nobly served), tender lamb, adolescent chicken, light, sweet bread, pota- toes, green pease, and other delicacies that ravished the heart and made glad the diges- tive apparatus." The same writer describes the trip on the " Starlight " to Enterprise thus : 96 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. "As the steamer plowed along its narrow channels, the water rushing in to fill the vacuum she made, would sway the countless lily-pads and bending terns to and fro, some- times baptizing them with its generous flood. The forest trees were the same all along the way. Cypress, maple, pine, and live-oak, while the palmetto would sometimes choke out the other growths, and send forth, for acres around, its umbrella-shaped tops. The vines grew everywhere, and along the banks would trail in masses, sweeping the dark waters with their leafy fringe. Often the dead, gaunt form of some tOAvering pine would rise above its fellows ; and here the os- prey would leave his nest, secure from harm ; and then, sitting upon some outstretched limb, would dash from his height into the waters and bear his prey aloft to his waiting offspring. " Now and then the steamer would shoot into a more open space, and where there did not appear to be any outlet — where the bow of the boat seemed about to be crushed against the land ; but it parted before us, and what appeared to have been the solid earth GUIDE TO FLORIDA. gj was but a floating island, which went dancing- and torn in the wake behind us, its long roots thrown up to the troubled surface of the water. At every turn in the river — and it had an endless twist and turn — the tall forms of the blue-and-white heron would rise from the shallow waters and fly before us. " Thousands of ducks were feeding among the water plants ; and not seldom it was a comical sight when, coming suddenly upon them, they would attempt to rise ; but, too fat to achieve speedy flight, would tremble and flutter, and finally scamper away into the tall weeds. Later in the day, the sun came out, and then the torpid bodies of huge alligators would be seen lying on the banks. To me the most charming feature of the trip to Enter- prise was the presence of the large birds I saw for the first time. Nothing could be more beautiful than the flocks of white swan, curlew, cygnets, and heron constantly rising before us." S gS GUIDE TO FLORIDA. ENTERPRISE. Enterprise possesses a large well - kept hotel, the Brock. House, the head-quarters of the sportsmen who rendezvous here to perfect their arrangements for excursions into the surrounding country. Small steamers sail-boats, etc., can be chartered there at moderate rates, with experienced persons to guide the stranger through the hunting- grounds, or to the best fisheries on Indian River. No part of the United States, nor of North America, affords finer sport than Florida. Game of all kinds abounds. It is during the cold season, when the northern sportsmen are confined indoors, that the game is most plentiful in Florida. Deer, bear, wild cat, raccoon, 'possum, wild turkey, ducks, geese, snipe, woodcock, quails, partridge, and curlews, are plentiful, and offer fine hunting ; while the rivers, bays, and lakes, invite the stranger to the pleasures of the rod, filled as they are with schools of the finest fish. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 99 Enterprise is 200 miles south of Jacksonville. Its climate is, consequently, much milder — frost being almost unknown. In the vicinity are some fine orange groves, whilst a remarkable sulphur spring, of great extent, and nearly a hundred feet in depth, is the curiosity of the place. On the opposite shore of Lake Munroe is MELLONVILLE. ISIellonville affords good accommodation to the visitor. It possesses several hotels and boarding-houses. Its orange groves are among the largest and most productive in Florida. lOO GUIDE TO FLORIDA SANFORD. Extending from Mellon ville, five miles along Lake Munroe, and down the St. John's, is " Sanford's Grant." It is owned by Henry S. Sanford, our former Minister to Belgium. He has located here the town of Sanford, which commands the traffic of the river, and the rich agricultural country back of it. It is destined to be the most important place in the Upper St. John's. Mr. Sanford has laid out roads, built mills, and brought over near one hundred Swedes, who have formed a flourishing colony, where they have secured permanent labor, and demonstrated the health- fulness of the climate. Mr. Sanford has large plantations of bananas ; one of which, St. Gertrude, is of lOO acres, the largest on the Continent. His idea is to prove that capital, applied to the production of semi- tropical fruits in Florida, will not only be GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 1 01 remunerative, but that Florida can make us independent of the world for those products. At Sanford is located the INIellonville Post- office. There is a fine Episcopal Church, with the onl}^ spire to be seen between Key West and St. Augustine. Its parsonage is nearly completed. It is being- erected by Mrs. Sanford, who is helped by friendly con- tributions. A large school-house is to be erected there; and a first-class hotel, in con- templation, will be located near the Warm Sulphur Springs of St Gertrude. One of these springs, which made its ap- pearance in January, 1872, is said to be of greater volume than that at Green Cove Springs. The salubriousness and mildness of the climate of Sanford, the beauty of the country, its miles of lovely drives through the pine openings, interspersed with beautiful lakes, with unbounded resources for the sportsman, etc., points this out as destined to be a favorite place of resort for the Northerner who seeks health, combined with relaxation, from business. As for the orange, the experience of the I02 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. past few years has demonstrated that the south side of Lake Miinroe is the best por- tion, on the St. John's, for its culture, as it is protected from the north wind by that large body of tepid water beyond the reach of in- jurious frosts. Back of Sanford are several groves much frequented by visitors, and said to produce $2,000 worth of oranges per acre. Many new groves are being laid out, in and about the place. ST. AUGUSTINE. We must now return to Tocoi, and take the cars for St. Augustine. On a fine day, the three hours' ride through the pines is a pleasant one. St. Augustine, historically, is the most interesting city in Florida, while its quaint appearance makes it different from any other city in the land. It was an important town half a century before the landing of the pil- grims. In the preceding chapters, the reader will find recorded most ol the important events which mark its history. FOKTIFICATION IN ST. AUGUSTINE. (To face p. 10a.» GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 103 The St. Augustine Hotel and the Mag- nolia House are the principal ones ; they are excellently kept. Numerous boarding- houses also afford good accommodation, at moderate prices. St. Augustine is the point-de-mire of Florida. To visit the State, without seeing its quaint old city, would be like traveling through Italy without entering the gates of Rome. St. Augustine is unlike any other city of this continent ; yet, it must be acknowledged that, the innovations are gradually effacing its Spanish or Moresque peculiarities. Already the customs are Americanized ; the Spanish cavalier is of the past, so is the duena, and the senorita, whom she so carefully guarded. But there are monuments of its founders which have withstood time, and whose soli- dity of construction has not been affected by the elements — monuments which tell of past glories, and of the high state of the military art of engineering, at the date of the settle- ment of St. Augustine. Rev. H. Clay Trumbull describes the city as follows : 104 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. " Its principal building material is a unique conglomerate of fine shells and sand, known as coquina rock, found in large quantities on Anastasia Island, at the entrance of the har- bor, and which is easily cut in blocks to be laid in courses, and perhaps covered over with stucco. The streets are quite narrow : one, which is nearly a mile long, being but fifteen feet wide, and that on which a principal hotel stands being but twelve feet, while the widest of all is but twenty-five feet. An ad- vantage of these narrow streets in this warm climate is, that the}' give shade, and increase the draft of air through them as through u flue. Indeed, some of the streets seem almost like a flue, rather than an open way ; for many of the houses, with high roof and dormer win- dows, have hanging balconies along their second story, which seem almost to touch each other over the narrow street ; and the families sitting in these of a warm evening, can chat confidentially, or even shake hands with their over-the-way neighbors. " The street walls of the houses are frequent- ly extended in front of the side garden — the "OLD ENTRANCE GATE," ST. AUGUSTINE. (To face p. 105 .> GUIDE TO FLORIDA. I05 house roof, and perhaps a side balcon}-, cover- ing this extension ; or the houses are built around uncovered courts, so that, passing thi-ough the main door of a building, you find yourself still in the open air, instead of within the dwelling. These high and solid garden walls are quite common along the principal streets; and an occasional latticed door gives 3'ou a peep into the attractive area beyond the massive structure, with perhaps a show of huge stone arches, or of a winding staircase between heavy stone columns, or of a profu- sion of tropical vegetation in the winter gar- den, bringing to mind the stories in poem and romance of the loves of Spanish damsels, and • of stolen interviews at the garden gate, or elopements by means of the false key or the bribed porter. The principal streets were formerly well paved or floored with shell con- crete, portions of which are still to be seen above the shifting sand ; and this flooring was so carefully swept, that the dark-eyed maidens of old Castile, who then led in society here, could pass and repass without soiling their satin slippers. No rumbling wheels were per- 5* Io6 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. mitted to crush the firm road-bed, or to whirl the dust into the airy verandas, where, in un- disturbed repose, sat the indolent Spanish dons and dames. " Built as a military town, the city was for- merly walled across its northern end ; which sufficiently protected it, as it stands on a pen- insula nearly surrounded by the St. Sebastian River and St. Augustine Bay. The gateway of the old wall still stands, and is quite an im- posing ruin, with ornamented lofty towers and loopholed sentry-boxes. The ditch before the old wall (or possibly it was a stockade, except at the gateways) is clearly marked, and even yet partially filled at high tides. It runs from shore to shore, and was evidently broad and deep. The old fort, once called San Juan, then St. Marco, but now known as Fort Marion, is a curiosity. It stands on the sea- front, at the upper end of the town, the wall or stockade formerly running from it to the gateway, and west to the river. Its material is the inevitable coquina rock. It was a hun- dred years in building. While owned by the British, it was said to be the " prettiest fort in GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 107 the king's dominion." Its castellated battle- ments ; its formidable bastions, with their frowning guns; its lofty and imposing sally- port, surrounded by the royal Spanish arms ; its portcullis, moat, drawbridge ; its circular and ornate sentry-boxes at each principal par- apet-angle ; its commanding look-out tower ; and its stained and moss-grown massive walls — impress the external observer as a relic of the distant past ; while a ramble through its heavy casemates; its crumbling Romish chapel, with elaborate portico and inner altar, and holy- water niches ; its dark passages, gloomy vaults, and more recently discovered dungeons— brings you to ready credence of its many traditions of inquisitorial tortures, of decaying skeletons found in the latest-opened chambers, chained to the rusty ringbolts, and of alleged subterranean passages to the neigh- boring convent. "These stories lose none of their force by being recited in the fitful light of the dim lamp of your military guide, as you follow him into the damp and noisome recesses to the echo of your own foot-fall, or the grating lock and I08 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. creaking hinge of the slow-swinging ancient doors. Many a dark tally-list on the molder- ing walls, or a riidely-execnted sketch, shows how the dragging days were noted or em- ployed by weary prisoners of long ago ; and the narrow loopholes are shown through which the two Seminole chiefs attempted their escape, one making it good, and the other sticking fast in the crevice until he was rescued with barely his life remaining. At the time of Gen. Oglethorpe's attack on- St. Augustine, the old fort, or castle as it was then called, stood a bombardment of thirty- eight days from batteries erected on Anastasia Island. But the injury to the fort was only slight ; for the spongy walls of coquina re- ceived and imbedded the heavy shot, as would the embankment of a modern earthwork. The marks left by the shot are plainly seen to-day. But time is at length doing its work with the old fort. Its walls are shovi^ing huge fissures, and on recent inspection it was declared unfit for further defensive service. " In the buildino-s of the town are some re- mains of elegance, as well as inuch of antiquity. STREET SCENE IN ST. AUGUSTINE. (To face p. 109.) GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 109 The cathedral is unique, with its bellV}', in the form of a section of a bell-shaped pyramid, its chime of four bells in separate niches, and its clock, together forming a cross. The oldest of these bells is marked 1682. The old con- vent of St. Mary's is a suggestive relic of the days of papal rule. The new convent is a tasteful building of the ancient coquina. The United States' barracks, recently remodeled and improved, are said to have been built as a convent or monastery. The old government house, or palace, is now in use as the post- office and United States' court-rooms. At its rear is a well-preserved relic of what seems to have been a fortification to protect the town from an over-the-river or inland attack. An older house than this, formerly occupied by the attorney-general, was pulled down a few years ago. Its ruins are still a curiosity, and are called (though incorrectly) the governor's house. " The * Plaza de la Constitution ' is a fine public square in the centre of the town, on which stand the ancient markets, and which is faced by the cathedral, the old palace, the no GUIDE TO FLORIDA. convent, a modern Episcopal church, and other fine structures. In the centre of the plaza stands a monument, erected in honor of the Spanish Liberal Constitution. When the Constitution was abolished, these monuments in all dominions of the crown were to be des- troyed ; but a compromise was effected on this by the removal of the inscribed tablets. On the cession of Florida to the United States, the long-concealed tablets were brought from their hiding-places, and re-inserted in the monument. On this plaza were burned effi- gies of John Hancock and Samuel Adams, early in our Revolution, while the British held Florida. " The old Huguenot burying-ground is a spot of much interest ; so is the military bury- ing-ground, where rest the remains of those who fell near here during the prolonged Seminole war. Under three pyramids of co- quina, stuccoed and whitened, are the ashes of Major Dade and one hundred and seven men of his command, who were massacred by Osceola and his band. A fine sea-wall of nearly a mile in length, built of coquina with GUIDE TO FLORIDA. j 1 1 a coping of granite, protects the entire ocean front of the city, and furnishes a delightful promenade of a moonlight evening. In full view of this is the old light-house on Anasta- si:i Island, built more than a century ago, and now surmounted with a fine revolving lantern. "The street names, Cuna, St. Hypolita, Tolomato, St. George's, and the like, have an ancient and a foreign smack about them ; while the family names, such as Dumas, Fatio, Her- nandez, Oliverez, Alveres, Monardi, Segui, Andrea, Sanchez, Medices, and Bravo, mark it as any thing but American in its origin. Some of the Roman Catholic customs of car- nival and evening serenades before Easter are still kept up by the Minoixan population." ''A word as to these people, who constitute no inconsiderable portion of the present popu- lation of St. Augustine, While Florida was in possession of the English, a Dr. Turnbull went to Greece, and received permission to transport such families as chose to go to Florida. Obtaining a small number, not enough for his proposed colony, he halted at the Islands of Corsica and Minorca in the 112 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. Mediterranean, where over a thousand joined his company. They landed just inside of Mosquito Inlet, at New Smyrna, some seven- ty-five miles south of St. Augustine. Turn- bull soon became imperious, and by the aid of a few immediate friends reduced these patient, hard-working people to a state of slavery, as- signing them tasks under overseers, and treat- ing them in the most shameful manner. His promises of lands and creature comforts, made at the time of their joining his expedition, were disregarded, and with acquired wealth came added austerity and hardships for these now dependent people. Thus for nine years they were in bondage, when, stung to resist- ance, they assembled clandestinely, and march- ed in a body to St. Augustine, where they were kindly received, and allowed to remain. They form a very quiet class, attentive to their own affairs, and never meddhng with their neighbors. They are intelligent and in- dustrious, and some have acquired considera- ble property. " There are a few fine residences in St. Au- gustine ; and these, with their ample surround- o H a o H t-" w > o I— I O GUIDE TO FLOBIDA. 113 ings and beautiful gardens, give a heightened interest to the place. Senator Gilbert has a summer residence here, the first as you enter the town, by the bridge, on the right ; then Buckingham Smith's, nearl}^ opposite, and Dr. Bronson's on the plaza, with others, are beau- tiful homes. A profusion of tropical plants, and shrubs, and trees, ornament their grounds. Here the orange flourishes, and is abundant and delicious : several fine groves invite the visitor's inspection. The fig, and date, and palm, and banana, are all seen here, as also the lime and lemon, which grow to a great size, and the sweet and wild olive ; the citron, the guava (from which a delicious jelly is made), and the pomegranate, are all indige- nous. This is the home of the grape, and peaches luxuriate in this climate, as likewise the Japan plum. " Besides the gardens spoken of, we see few flowers ; and this is what quite astonishes us in this " land of flowers," where they grow so easily, and with so little care that there seems no excuse why all the gardens should not have these simple yet beautiful adornings. 114 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. *' For many years the town has been at a standstill, and property at a low figure. Good titles can with difficulty be obtained ; and this is now the great drawback to the improve- ment of the place, though within a few years Northern people have been coming in and taking such titles as were offered. One gen- tleman, Mr. Howard, from New York, has within a year past invested near fifty thousand dollars in real estate in the city, which is be- ginning to feel the effects of this healthful in- flux, property having already risen to four- fold its value five years ago, and still not high. The residence of Senator Gilbert, before al- luded to, was bought by him at the close of the war, as we are informed, for about eight thousand dollars, and we judge worth forty now. This place has several acres of ground in it. " The longer one remains in this antique town, the more he is attached to it: at teast, this was our experience. It improves on ac- quaintance. The plaza, or public square, affords a pleasant retreat from the sand, which everywhere else covers the place. Here are s o "A P a < < GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 115 shade-trees, and the firm green turf and benches, whereon the visitor may lounge and idle away the hours. At the foot of the square, which fronts on the bay, is the market- house, so entirely different from those else- where seen ; being here neat, airy, and at- tractive. It consists of a roof supported by brick pillars, a half-dozen on either side, with a floor of the same material, and is altogether unique in appearance. " The number of strangers here greatly ex- ceeded our expectations, and thronged in every street and public place. The fashiona- ble belle of Newport and Saratoga, and the pale, thoughtful, and furloughed clerg3'man of New England, were at all points encoun- tered. The meeting of friends whom we had not seen for years, and others whom we had never met, but yet could call our name, seem- ed strange and quite a dream." Il6 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. OCKLAWAHA RIVER. At Palatka, the tourist to Florida will do well to call upon Captain Adams, the gentle- manly agent of the Dictator and City Point, — from him he can leflrn how best to employ his time, and which are the most interesting points to visit. Should the visitor decide upon taking a trip on the Ocklawaha, he will be certain to enjoy a most nov^el excursion ; of late the number desiring to visit this romantic stream has so increased, that the owners of the steamers have felt authorized to increase their passenger accommodations, and we be- lieve they are now quite good. The following excellent description of a trip on the Ocklawaha is from Appleton's Pic- turesque America, which contains the most faithful scenes of Florida that have ever been portrayed : " A sail of twenty miles along the St. John's brought us, a little before sunrise, to the mouth of the Ocklawaha River, looking scarcely wide enough to admit a skiff, much GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 117 less a steamboat. As daylight increased, we found that we were passing through a dense cypress-swamp, and that the channel selected had no banks, but was indicated by " blazed " marks on the trunks of the towering trees. There was plenty of water, however, to float our craft, but it was a queer kind of navig- ation, for the hull of the steamer went bump- ing against one cypress-butt, then another, suggesting to the tyro in this kind of aquatic adventure that possibly he might be wrecked, and subjected, even if he escaped a watery grave, to a miserable death, through the agency of mosquitoes, buzzards, and huge al- ligators. As we wound along through the dense vegetation, a picture of novel interest pre- sented itself at every turn. We came occa- sionally to a spot a little elevated above the dead-water level, covered with a rank growth of lofty palmetto, the very opposite, in every respect, to those stunted, storm-blown speci- mens which greeted us at the mouth of the St. John's River. Here they shot up tall and slender, bearing aloft innumerable parasites, Il8 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. often surprising the eye with patches, of a hah-mile in length, of the convolvukis, in a sohcl mass of beautiful blossoms. Another sharp turn, and the wreck of an old dead cypress is discovered, its huge hmbs covered with innumerable turkey-buzzards, which are waiting patiently for the decom- position of an alligator that some suc- cessful sportsman has shot, and left for the prey of these useful but disgusting birds. The sunshine sparkles in the spray which our awkward yet efficient craft drives from its prow, and then we enter what seems to be a cavern, where the sun never penetrates. The tree-tops interlace, and the tangled vines and innumerable parasites have made a soHd mass overhead. The swamps of Florida are as rich in birds as in vegetation. It is no wonder that Audu- bon here found one of the finest fields from which to enrich his great works of natural history. A minute list of the varieties we sometimes saw in a single day would fill a page. One of the most attractive was the water-turkey, or snake-bird, which was every- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 119 where to be met with, sitting upon some pro- jecting limb overlooking the water, the body as carefully as possible concealed from view, its head and long neck projecting out, and moving constantly like a black snake in search of its prey. Your curiosity is excited ; you would examine the creature more critically, and you fire, at what seems a short, point- blank shot. The bird falls, apparently help- less, in the water ; you row rapidly to secure your prize, when, a hundred yards ahead, you suddenly see the snaky head of the " darter " just protruding above the surface of the water. In an instant its lungs are filled with air, and, disappearing again, it reaches a place of safety. Another conspicuous bird is the large white crane. It is a very effective object in the deep shadows of the cypress, as it proudly stalks about, eyeing with fantastic look the finny tribes it hunts for prey. Especially is it of service in seizing upon the young of the innumerable water-snakes which everywhere abound. With commendable taste, it seems to pay especial attention to the disgusting, I20 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. slimy, juvenile moccasins, which have a taste for sunninsf themselves on harsh dried leaves of the stinted palmetto. But the prominent living object to the stranger in these out-of-the way places is the aUigator, whose paradise is in the swamps of Florida. Here he finds a chmate that almost the year round suits his delicate constitution ; and, while his kindred in the Louisiana swamps find it necessary to retire into the mud to escape the cold of winter, the Florida representative of the tribe is happy in the en- joyment of the upper world the year round. It was a comical and a provoking sight to see these creatures, when indisposed to get out of our way, turn up their piggish eyes in spec- ulative mood at the sudden interruption of a rifle-ball against their mailed sides, but all the while seemingly unconscious that any harm against their persons was intended. Like Achilles, however, they possess a vulnerable point, which is just in front of the spot where the huge head works upon the spinal column. There is, of necessity, at this place a joint in the armor, and a successful hunter, after much GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 121 experience, seldom lets one of the reptiles es- cape. If any philanthropist has ever objected to the slaughter, the circumstance is not re- membered in the swamps and everglades of Florida. On one occasion we fired into a herd of alligators, and the noise of two or three shots caused all but one to finally dis- appear. For some reason it seemed difficult to get the remaining one to move, the crea- ture lying with its head exposed to our gaze, looking as demoniac as possible. A bullet, \vhich struck somewhere in the vicinity of its jaws, touched its feeUngs, and then, with a grunt not unlike that of a hog, it buried itself in the muddy water. This unwillingness to move was then explained by the appearance of a large number of young alligators, which, in the confusion, came to the surface like so many chips. We had, without being aware of it, attacked the mother while she was pro- tecting her nest. In the vicinity of the aHigator's nest we came upon a primitive post-office, consisting of a cigar-box, bearing the magic letters " U. S. M.," nailed upon the face of an old 122 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. cypress-tree. It was a sort of central point for the swampers, where they left their soiled notes and crooked writing to be conveyed to the places of destination by " whomever came along." We, desiring to act the part of a volunteer mail-carrier for the neighbourhood, peeped into the post-office, but there were no signs of letters ; so our good intentions were of no practical effect. Our little nondescript craft bumps along from one cypress-stump, and fetches up against a cypress-knee, as it is termed — sharp- pointed lances which grow^ up from the roots of the trees, seemingly to protect the trunk from too much outside concussion ; glancing off, it runs into a roosting-place of innumer- able cranes, or scatters the wild ducks and huge snakes over the surface of the water. A clear patch of the sky is seen, and the bright light of a summer evening is tossing the feath- ery crowns of the old cypress-trees into a nimbus of glory, while innumerable paro- quets, alarmed at our intrusion, scream out their fierce indignation, and then, flying away, flash upon our admiring eyes their green and GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 1 23 golden plumage. It now begins to grow dark in earnest, and we become ciirions to know how our attentive pilot will safely navigate this mysterious channel in what is literally Eg3'ptian darkness. While thus speculating, there flashes across the landscape a bright, clear light. From the most intense blackness Ave have a fierce, lurid glare, presenting the most extravagantly-picturesque groups of overhanging palmettos, draped with para- sites and vines of all descriptions ; prominent among the latter is the scarlet trumpet-creep- er, overburdened with w^reaths of blossoms, and intertwined again with chaplets of purple and white convolvulus, the most minute de- tails of the' objects near being brought out in a sharp red light against the deep tone of the forest's depths. But no imagination can con- ceive the grotesque and wierd forms which constantly force themselves on 3'our notice as the light partially illuminates the limbs of wrecked or half-destroyed trees, which, cov- ered with moss, or wrapped in decayed vege- tation as a winding-sheet, seem huge unbur- ied monsters, which, though dead, still throw 124 GUIDE TO FLOP IDA. about their arras in agony, and gaze througli unmeaning eyes upon the intrusions of active, living men. Another run of a half-mile brings us into the cypress again, the firelight giving ncAV ideas of the picturesque. The tall shafts, more than ever shrouded in the hanging moss, look as if they had been draped in sad habiliments, while the wind sighed through the limbs ; and when the sonorous sounds of the alligators were heard, groaning and com- plaining, the sad, dismal picture of desolation was complete. A sharp contact with a palmetto-knee throws round the head of our nondescript steamer, and wc enter what appears to be an endless colonnade of beautifully-proportioned shafts, running upward a hundred feet, roofed by pendent ornaments, suggesting the high- est possible effect of Gothic architecture. The delusion was increased by the waving stream- ers of the Spanish moss, which here and there, in great festoons of fifty feet in length, hung down like tattered but gigantic banners, worm-eaten and mouldy, sad evidences of the GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 1 25 hopes and passions of the distant past. So absorbing were these wonderful effects of a brilliant light upon the vegetable productions of these Florida swamps, that we had forgot- ten to look for the cause of this artificial glare, but, when we did, we found a faithful negro had suspended from cranes two iron cages, one on each side of the boat, into which he constantly placed unctuous pine-knots, that blazed and crackled, and turned what would otherwise have been unmeaning dark- ness into the most novel and exciting views of Nature that ever met our experienced eyes. The morning came, and the theatrical dis- play of the swamp by torchlight ended, when we were destined to be introduced to a new feature of this singular navigation. A huge water-oak, seemingly in the very pride of its matured existence, had fallen directly across the channel. Its wood was only a little less hard than iron, and the labor to be performed to get this obstruction out of the way was contemplated with anger by the captain of our craft, and in sadness by the " hands," to 126 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. whose lot fell the labor of clearing- the ob- struction away. However, the order was given, and no inhabitant of the swamp is in- experienced in the use of the axe. The sturdy blows fell thick and fast, as one limb after an- other broke loose from the parent trunk and floated slowly away. The great butt was then assailed, and, by a judicious choice in the as- sault, the weight of the huge structure was made to assist in breaking it in twain. While this work was going on, which consumed some hours, we waded — we won't say ashore — but, from one precarious foothold to another, un- til, after various unpleasant experiences — the least of which was getting wet to our waist in the black water of the swamp — we reached land, which was a few inches above the surface of the prevailing flood. We were, however, rewarded for our enter- prise, by suddenly coming upon two " Florida crackers," who had established a camp in a grove of the finest cypress-trees we ever saw, and were appropriating the valuable timber to the manufacture of shingles, which shingles, we were informed, are almost as indestructible GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 12/ as slate. These men were civil, full of char- acter, and, in their way, not wanting in intel- liofence. How thev manao;^e to survive the discomforts of their situation is difficult to imagine, but the}' do exist; the mosquitoes drawing from their bodies ever}- useless drop of blood, the low swamp malaria making the accumulation of fat an impossibility, while the dull surroundings of their life, to them most monotonous, cramp the intellect, until they are almost as taciturn as the trees with which they arc associated. But their hut was a very model of the picturesque ; and the smoulder- ing fire, over which their dinner-pot was cook- ing, sent up a wreath of blue smoke against the dark openings of the deep forest that gave a quiet charm, and a contrast of colors, diffi- cult to sufficiently admire, and impossible to be conceived of in the mere speculations of studio life. One of our strangest experiences in these mysterious regions was forced upon us one morning, when, thrusting our head through the hole that gave air to our " sleeping-shelf," wc saw a sight which caused us to rub our 128 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. eyes, and gather up our senses, to be certain we were positively awake. Our rude craft was in a basin possibly a quarter of a mile in diameter, entirely surrounded by gigantic for- est-trees, which repeated themselves with the most minute fidelity in the perfectly translu- cent water. For sixty feet downward we could look, and at this great depth see dupli- cated the scene of the upper world ; the clear- ness of the water assisting rather than inter- fering with the vision. The bottom of this basin was silver sand, studded with pale emer- alds, eccentric formations of lime-crystals — a bed of white coral in forms and color that re- minded us of the cunningly-wrought silver baskets of Genoa. This, we soon learned, was the wonderful silver spring of which we had heard so much, which ever}^ moment throws out its thousands of gallons of water without making a bubble on the surface. Procuring a " dug-out," provided with a gun, and furnished with our drawing-ma- terials, and a lunch that would answer for the day, we deliberately proceeded to inform our- self of the mysteries of the spot. The trans- GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 129 parenc}' of the water was ever a constant won- der. A little pearly white shell, dropped from our hand, worked its zigzag way downward, becominof in its descent a mere emerald tint, until, finding the bottom, it seemed to b-j a gem destined forever to glisten in its silver settmg. Noticing the faintest possible movement on the surface of the basin at a certain point, we concluded that that must be over the place where the great body of the water entered the spring. So, paddling to the spot, and wrap- ping a stone weighing about eight ounces in a piece of white paper, we dropped it into the water at the place where the slightly percept- ible movement was visible. The stone went perpendicularly down for some twenty-five feet, until it reached a slight projection of limestone rock, where it was suddenly, as if a feather in weight, forced upward in a curving line some fifteen feet, showing the tremendous power of the water that rushes out from the rock buried under this bed of burning sand. Perhaps the most novel and startling feature was when our craft came from the shade into I30 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. the sunshine, tor then, looking over the sides of the canoe, we recoiled at the sensation of floating in the air. For it seemed as if we were, by some miraculous power, suspended seventy feet or more in the mid air, while down on the sanded bottom was a sharp, clear silhouette of man, boat, and paddle. A deep river a hundred feet wide is created by the water of this spring, which, in the course of seven miles, forms a junction with the Ocklawaha, and then continues to run side by side for another mile, witKout mixing its clear, pellucid water with the coffee-stained flow of the other stream, which, like most of the riv- ers of Florida, is heavily charged with alluvial and vegetable matter. Such are some of the wonders of the land discovered by Ponce de Leon, INDIAN RIVER. The sportsman can charter a Minorcan ves- sel at St. Augustine, on reasonable terms, to carry him to the famous Indian River ; or, he can, if he prefers it, go up the St. John's to Enterprise, and so reach the river. G UIDE TO FLORIDA . 1^1 The writer of this work ch)cs not propose to endorse any fish story, but to give an idea of the sport in Indian River, gives the follow- ing extracts from the letter of a correspondent of the New York Sun, written last spring; the account is not an exaggeration, for it is sim- ply impossible to exaggerate the variety or quantity of fish to be found in this wonderful inlet : " The gamest fish in Florida is the channel bass or red-fish. It is a salt water fish, built like a striped bass. It has silvery and red golden scales, but no stripes. A round moth- er-of-pearl spot on the neck of the tail is its most striking mark. Channel bass hang about the mouths of fresh water brooks in great swarms at certain seasons of the year, and gobble up the young mullet. In the fall of the year the mullet is a delicious fish. It never takes the hook, but is caught in a cast- net. WONDERS OF THE CAST-NET. " Every sea-coast family in Florida below 132 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. St. Augustine owns a cast-net. Spread upon the grass this net is about twenty feet in cir- cumference. The edge is loaded with heavy sliding sinkers, each of which fills the outer stitch of the net. From the center runs a strong cord from eighteen to thirty feet in length. The thrower takes the end of this cord be- tween his teeth, arranges the net in folds on his right arm, firmly seizes a fold in each hand, swings himself partly around, and then gives the net a powerful heave. It strikes the water in a circle, the sinkers instantly carry the rim to the bottom, and every fish beneath it is a prisoner. The fisherman then draws in the net by a cord, while the weight of the sinkers brings them together, thus preventing the es- cape of the fish. The art of throwing the net is acquired only by constant practice. It looks easy enough, but there is a knack about it that renders it difficult. I have seen a tweh^e year boy send it eighteen feet, when a two- hundred - pound greenhorn could not even spread it on the water. An adept will throw it from twent}^ to thirty feet. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 133 GREEN CATFISH — CHANNEL BASS. " I caught my first channel bass at Turtle Mound on a Cudd^'hunk hook, which was much too small. Standing upon the point of a spit of sand, I cast the mullet -baited hook fift}' feet into the water. Five minutes passed before a bite. The fish was fastened and reeled in. It was a two-pound cat-fish of a delicate green color. In the sun it had the lustre of a green silk dress. A second time I drew in a green cat-fish. Then half an hour elapsed without a bite. I grew discouraged, and running the line from the reel, walked back to a bunch of stunted palmettos and laid my I'od across them, intending to go to the sea beach and look for shells. I had gone nearly two hundred feet, when I looked back and saw the reel running out at smoking speed. The rod had started over the sand before I reached it. The fish was evidently a large one, and wanted play. He ran up and down the river as though he had been dosed with laughing gas. It was ten minutes before he became quiet, and I began to work 134 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. the reel. When within twenty feet of the shore he made a second break, taking two hundred feet of hue. I could feel him shak- ing his head and trying to get the hook out of his mouth as he sped away. Then he ran in upon me like a race-horse, faster than I could take in the slack. Dashing into the shallow water, he took a look at his tormen- tor. It was not satisfactory. Making a wide sweep, he flirted the foam into my face with his tail, and again sailed off into the river, raising a swell upon the surface of the water. For an instant he was quiet, and then there was a circus-horse performance, which lasted over a minute. Finally the fish became ex- hausted, and was cautiously reeled in. I had no gaff-hook, and was about to stick my fin- gers into his gills and draw him upon the sand, when Dr. Fox, my guide, said, 'Catch him under the fore fins ; he's got teeth in his gills.' I found two pockets or arm-pits under his fins, r.nd pulled him ashore. He was a channel bass, weighing twenty -two pounds. Within twenty minutes I took in a second one, weighing a little short of fourteen pounds. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. I 35 At Seventy, near Pepper Hammock, I caught a twenty-five-pounci fellow. THE PRINCE OF FEATHERED GLUTTONS. " The pelican is the prince of feathered glut- tons. I shot a dozen of them on the wing. Sometimes the fish would begin to tumble out of their gullets before they reached the ground. In no case did I find less than four large fish in their baggy throats. The lower fish would be half digested. Their throttles are like mill hoppers. They fill the pouch under their bill with a peck of fish. The fish overflow into their throats. As fast as one digests another drops into its place, and goes through the same process. The bird is fat, logy, and very rank. It is full of grease. Han- dle a dead one in the sun- or before a camp fire, and the grease will drop from the body. They weigh from twelve to twenty pounds. Dr. Fox shot a white one measuring nine feet and one inch from tip to tip, and weighing nineteen and three-quarters pounds. While sitting upon the water they hold their heads 136 GUIDE TO FLO.'^.'DJ. well up, with their enormous bills anrl pouches flattened upon their breasts. They look as grave as country judges — so grav^e that but few persons can see them without laughing outright. They fly in Indian file, sometimes in strings half a mile lonof. When the leader flaps his wings the second one follows suit, and so on down the line ; and when the leader soars number two does the same, and is fol- lowed by the others. Each bird seems to be under strict discipline, and when g -/ihered in great flocks upon the beach th^y res mble an army massed by battalions. The ; I a mage of the grey pelican is much admired. Eveiy feather is shaded from a black to a beautiful silver grey. The under part of the neck re- sembles yellow satin, and the back part is a glossy brown velvet. THE HIGHWAY ROBBERS OK THE AH^. " It is amusing to watch an osprey while he is fishing. An eagle is soaring through the air five hundred feet above him. The osprey is sailing over the water, carefully eyeing its GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 1 37 surface. Suddenly he steadies himself ai^ainst the wind, rolling his wings as though endeav- oring to back water. Then he drops through the air like a plummet. There is a splash in the waves, and the osprcy rises with a fish in his talons. Meanwhile the eagle is drawing near. As the osprey ascends in the air, the eagle utters a threatening cry and swoops upon him. Unable to escape, the hawk finall}'- drops the fish. Before it strikes the water the eagle darts downward like a flash of light- ning and catches it, while the osprey flies to a hammock, where his comrades gather round and sympathize with him. THE DANCING FISH. *' A man-of-war hawk or frigate pelican is a peculiar fisherman. He descends upon his prey like a bullet from a height of three hun- dred feet. He seizes the fish in his beak, and soars aloft into the sky. His mates gather about him, while the lucky fisherman tosses his tidbit into the air so as to catch it by the head, and swallow it, as it comes down. His 138 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. throat is so small that he can get it in his stomach in no other way. There is a wild swoop, and another hawk seizes the fish, and again it is tossed in the air, and tossed up in- definitely, until one of the birds is so fortunate as to catch it head-first, when it disappears. I have seen a dozen frigate pelicans keep a fish dancing in the air fifteen minutes before it was swallowed. " The most wonderful fishermen on the In- dian River is a native named Stewart. He seems to be amphibious. It is no uncommon thing for him to jump into the water and run down a fat mullet, catching it in his hands. The Futch family have two dogs so starved that I have seen them dash into a school of mullet and reappear with fish in their mouths. FISH CAUGHT IN FLORIDA. " Among the fish caught at Smyrna are sheepshead, bass or red-fish, the red and black grouper, salt water trout, mullet, king-fish (the natives call it whiting), sea-bass, pig-fish, drum- fish, sailor's choice or porgie, sergeant -fish, GUIDE TO FLORIDA. I 39 cavallo, snapjack or blue-fish, green ami black cat-fish, red and black snappers, mcnatee, lady- fish, jew-fish, stingarees, sharks, dog-fish, por- poises, saw-fish, sword-fish, ribbon-fish, pom- paneau, different kinds of cuttle fish, two kinds of eels, (natives call them congarees,) an elec- trical flounder, similar to an electrical eel, flukes, skates, big shrimps, whipparees, or clam-crackers, bezonga, toad-fish, blow-fish, porcupine fish, cow-fish, mojarra, angel-fish and spade-fish. " The grouper is a sort of a salt-water perch, and is highly prized for its flavor and game- ness. It is generally caught in deep water. " The salt-water trout is not the Northern weak-fish. It resembles a brook trout, but the dots on its sides are black, and not red. It bites like a weak-fish, and is game to the backbone. " The pig-fish is built like a grouper. It is a game fish, and derives its name from the fact that it grunts like a pig when thrown from the hook to the bottom of the boat. " The sheepshead are not so large as North- ern fish of this name. 140 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. " The serg-eant-fish is a salt-water pike. It is a splendid fighter, and is called a sergeant- fish because it has three stripes running across its body similar to a sergeant's chevrons. It grows as large as a muscalonge. " The cavallo or ' creval3-ea,' is a favorite game fish. Its head and fins are tipped with gold. The former is shaped like the prow of an old-fashioned Erie canal boat. The fish is very narrow at the root of the tail, which has a golden tinge. " The lady-fish is delicate and silvery. When struck by the hook they spring from the water with more energy than a black bass. Their flavor is delicious. " The jew-fish grows to an enormous size, occasionally reaching five hundred pounds in weight. It is of a greenish color, covered with irregular dark spots, and is very game. Why it is called a jew-fish is one of those things that no person can find out. " The saw-fish becomes verj^ large, and takes the hook like an old stager. Aflat bone, set with teeth on either edge, juts from its nose, giving the fish its name. It is good eating and game. GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 141 " The ribbon-fish has a snout Hke a pike. It is a thin fish, strung out like a ribbon, from which it takes its name. It is regarded as a delicacy. " Stingarees are plentiful, and of an enor- mous size. Some of them weigh two hundred and fifty pounds. The sting is in their tail. It is a bone several inches in length, bearded in a hundred places like the shank of a hook. The fish can throw it through a man's boot, or even through his body. It is a dangerous fish, and has been known to cause death in a few hours. The natives use the stingaree's tail for toothpicks. They declare that it pre- vents toothache. " The pompeneau is the pride of Southern epicures. It is caught in a net, and has a round body, shining like a plate of silver. Its bones are soft, and it has a flavor superior to that of a shad. A FISH THAT EATS GRASS. ** The menatee, or sea-cow, is a huge am- phibious animal. It is found in the St. Lucie River. It has a head like that of a sea-Hon, 142 Gi'IDE TO FLORIDA. and it looks like a gigantic seal. It feeds upon the rank grass growing upon the marshes of the St. Lucie. The menatee has ribs as thick as a man's arm. Last year Dolph Sheldon and Frank Sams caught one alive near the mouth of the river, intending to send it North for exhibition. The animal weighed over one thousand five hundred pounds. Unfortunately it was tied to the boat so firmly that the rope cut into its flesh, and it died before the party reached the head of Indian River. The por- gies devoured the body. Florida is the only place in which the menatee is found on the North American continent. Formerly it was abundant, but it is now nearly extinct, and becomes more scarce every year. Its meat is greatly relished, and tastes like the best Ful- ton Market beef. " The whipparee resembles the stingaree. Its mouth is filled with two ivor}^ rocks, and between them it cracks the clams on which it feeds. It reaches an enormous size. " The porcupine-fish has a round body filled with quills. It is small, and good for nothing. " The cow-fish is a curious fish. It has the GUIDE TO FLORIDA. 143 head of a pig, with two horns above the ears. On the bottom it is as smooth as a flat-iron. " The mojarra is the shape of a sheepshead, and has a lustrous brown shading- above the tail. It is as handsome as an angel-fish, and is good eating. " The spade-fish also looks like a sheeps- head, but it has no hard fins. NO TROUT IN FLORIDA. " All the books on Florida declare that the rivers are filled with trout. This is untrue. There is not a fresh-water trout in the State. What they call trout are a kind of black bass, trapped on a troll. They have huge mouths, and are caught by scores in the St. John's River. A lady hooked one at Enterprise weighing ten pounds and a half. Compared with sea fishing, however, fishing on the St. John is boyish sport. EXCURSIONS. From St. Augustine and Enterprise, many excursions can be made, with perfect safety, 144 GUIDE TO FLORIDA. into an almost unexplored region abounding in fish and game ; and one's time — whether in a sojourn of a few weeks, or during an entire winter — be most agreeably occupied in Flo- rida. There are many quite important points in Florida, in a business point of view, not touched upon in this work; but we believe we have here given all that interests the general reader, or the seeker after health or recreation in relation to Florida. FINIS ^Oi^ First-Class New-York Built Steamers BICTATOE* ^ €apt* Yog:e!, CWY POMT, - f apt. Mtzgerald, Connect at CHARLESTON and SAVANNAH with the New Yorli Steamers and Northern Trains for SAVANNAH, FEliNA NDINA , J A CKSON V [L LE, St. AUGUSTINE, HIBEJINIA, MAGNOLIA, GliEEN CO VESpiintfy, BALATKA, I^CLUDI,^G ALL LANDINGS ON THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER. CONNECT AT PALATKA WITH STEAMKKS FOR ENTERPR1S1-, MKLLONVILLE. SANFORD, AND INDLVN RIVER, ALSO WITH STEAMERS FOR THE OCKLAWAHA RIVER. A Fufficient numbf-r of the Cfioicest State-Rcoms are reserved lor PasBeugers by the NEW \OHK STEAMERS. Passencers will find on these Steamers every comfort and convenience — a first-ciaBS table, and ] olite and attentive employees. For Freight or pass-aiic, apply in New York to Agents of Charleston and Savannah Steamsliip Lines. Jlie blCJ/lJOl^ apd CIJY H\^] have during the Summer been elegantly refurnished, and put in the most thorough order, nothing being left un- done to provide every comfort and convenience. The traveler will bear in mind they land him at the very doors of the folloAving hotels, without change of con- veyance. SAVANNAH. Pulaski House, Screven House, Pavilion Hotel and Marshall House. FERNANDINA. RiDELL House, and numerous Boarding Houses. JACKSONVILLE. International, St. James' Hotel, Metropolitan- Hotel, St. John's House ]\[rs. Day's, Mrs. Atkin's, Mrs. Stockton's and Mrs. Buffington's. HIBERNIA. Mrs. Fleming's. GREEN COVE SPRINGS. Union Hotel and Clarendon Hotel. THE HOTEL AT MAGNOLIA. PALATKA. St. John's Hotel and Putnam Hotel. At Tocoi landing passengers at the Cars for St. Augustine, taking them direct to St. Augustine Hotel, Magnolia House, and the numerous Board- ing Houses of the Ancient City. Connecting at Palatka with Steamers taking the passengers to Brock's Hotel, Enterprise, and the various Boarding Houses at MELLONVILLE. By this direct communication the traveler is saved great perplexity and trouble. AH Tbrmgb BBlkmi TMeli TO FLORIDA RECEIVED ON THESE ^teair|ei'^ ii\ f^k^m^eiit of f^a^^^k^e, AND a:# lEf ai. € IS MADE F'or I^esuls or Stsute-iFLoorris. An attentive Stewardess is charged with the care of LADIES and CHILDREN, ^vhose duty it is to see them provided with every comfort. Each Steamer is provided 7vith a well-filled Medicine Chest, and the attendants, accustomed to the wants of invalids^ will at all times be found cheerfully to give their assistance when called upon. These Steamers being heated by Steam, a pleasant uni- form temperature is maintained during the Winter Months in Saloons and State-Roovis. Whether pleasure- seekers or invalids^ will find the route by the DICTATOR and CITY POINT the ?nost en- joyable and the least expensive j it is the only route by which the beautiful scenery of the lower St. John's River can be vieived^ with the many points rendered interesting, as the scenes of the earliest settlements on the Continent, and of the many bloody struggles between the French a?id Spaniards. Those traveling with invalids — ladies or children, will particularly appreciate the trouble and anxiety avoided, by being carried direct to their destination without several times having to shift baggage, etc., etc. The steamers are of the safest description, especially adapted to the service — fitted with every comfort and con- venience — clean, comfo7'table State Rooms, a table provided with every luxuij of the Charleston, Savannah and Flor- ida markets, and equal to that of a7iy first-class hotel. The DICTATOR and CITY POINT are com- manded by officers who have spent their lives in the Florida trade, and they, as well as all the employees on the Steamers, will take pleasure in giving every inforination to visitors, and to those intending to settle in Florida. Goods and Packages will be fot-warded by the Agents, free of conwiission. K-AT^EIVEL &c CO., Agents, Charleston, South Carolina. Fqf Speei, 8^§tjBni C^omfort TAKE THE GREAT SOUTHERN FREICxHT, AND PASSENGER «INE, FOR CHARLESTON, S. C, AND THE 0otitl\ ki\d ^otitlvWe^t, Sailing from Pier 29, North River, at 3 p. m., every TUESDAY, THURSDAY AND SATURDAY. Through Passage Tickets and Bills of Lading issued at lowest rates. FOR LOCAL FREIGHT AND PASSAGE TO ALL POINTS^ APPLY TO JAMES W. QUINTARD & CO., 177 West Street, cor. AVarren. FOR THROUGH FREIGHT TARIFF AND RATES APPLY TO BENTLEY D. H A S E L L, General Agent Great Southern Freight Line, 317 BROADVTAY. tB. I >i P ;i{ >i^ S X 'J-' I'o The Maffnificent Side-Wheel Steamships MANHA TTAN, CHAMPION, CHARLESTON, JAMES ADGER, GEORGIA, SOUTH CAROLINA, M. S. Woodhull, Commander. R. W. Lockwood, " Javies Berry, " T. J. Lockwood, " Hohnes, Crowell, « I- This house is on the Seaboard, in the most healthy part of the State of Florida. The drive of i8 wiles on the most magnificent beach on the Atlantic Coast presents a great attraction to visitors. The cxcnr- sions in the neighborhood are interesting^partictdarly that to Cumberland Islafid, and the well knoivn Dungeness. The house has lately been pnt in thorough repair, and will be found conducted in a most stiperior style by the proprietor. • SAMUEL T. RIDDELL, Proprietor. tea Qtt Wj^BS OP D. G. AMBLER J(^<'^SO?fy,lle' y DEALER IN («o /^j /^ _XCHANGE. "" "^ ""' AND fS-' (^J /^~iS Q XCHANGE, iStOCKS, lONDS, ^NOTESS ^ Itif ii^ Special Attention given to Investments for Capitalists! Ii\tei^e^t Sllo^Yed oq f)erpo^it^. Visitors to Florida afforded every possible facility. Drafts on Northern Cities cashed on favorable terms. Every ijiformation cheerfully afforded the Tourist or Invalid as to the various Winter Resorts of Florida — ■ routes of travel^ etc., etc. Our files of Northern papers may at all times be consulted. THE ^T. JAMES SOTEL, {Fronting St. James Park,) OPEN FROM NOVEMBER TO MAY, ^mf>JI£ St. lames Hotel has accommodations for 300 1' guests. Its location is the finest in Florida. A Jiew c- ■ -} brick wing, wo feet by 46 feet, three stories high, with spacious parlors on the first-floor, and large airy sleeping rooms with fire place in each, on the second and third floors, has been added during the past Summer. The e?iiire house has been refurnished in first-class style ivith sofa-spring beds and best hair mattresses. Families and others seeking the delightful climate of Florida will find the St. James a comfortable home for the winter. J. R. CAMPBELL & J. N. ANDREWS, GENERAL MANAGERS. JAOSSOITVILLE. l^EOKGE ^C^glNLZY. ^KOPKIETOK. The Grand National, recently completed, is now open for the reception of guests. Its situa- tion is unrivalled, commanding a magnificent view of the St. John's River, and convenient to the steamer landings and railroad depot. Visitors will find here every comfort, large, finely furnished, and well-ventilated apartments, and an excellent table. Bath rooms, billiard room, livery stable, etc., attached to hotel. In fact, every requisite of a first-class house. GEORGE McGINLEY, Proprietor. ^lETROPOLITAiN HOTEL, JnBkMomllle, Plm m 8uilt of Sridk,— Kew ¥l\i^oti#\otit. fLORIDAl^ANDScENCY, Jacksonville, Fla, C. L. ROBINSON, Proprietor. Attorney at Law. — Commissioner U. S. Circuit Court. — Special Commissioner U. S. Court Claims. — Publisher «* Florida Land Register." ^t. ]o\^'^ Sou^e, JACKSOJ^VILLE, Fla. Mrs. E. HlIDNAIiL, Proprietress. MRS. BUFFINGTON, 'str^itt Btitd I'^s^ JACKSONVILLE. FLA. t GUESTS WILL FIND EVERY COMFORT. Academy of St. Joseph, lAOKSO^TILLl, East Ma.; MOTHER SIDOlSriEU, Sup. The Sisters of St. Joseph have a separate house for the accommodation of persons desiring to spend the winter. MRS. S. E. DAY, JACKSONVILLE, FLA. FORSYTH STREET. ?fiYkte Sokfdiii AT Mrs. A. V. C. ATKII\S, MONROE STREET, 1st Door from Market St., JACKSONVILLE, EAST FLOBIBA. MRS. STOCKTON, c- PfiYkte Sokfdir^^, JACKSONVILLE, Fla. T~^ T O G iV/ DEALER IN FOREIGN fiBms MqwQm BBi B'&gmB§ IMPOETEK OF FINB Excursion Parties fitted out with every reqtii site for extended trips to the Interior. Proprietor of the Metropolitan Billiard Saloon, Avhere visitors will find tables of the celebrated makers, both Pocket and Carom. Liquors of our own importation furnished at the bar. The large Hall in the bviilding can be secured on rea- sonable terms for Concerts, Theatrical Representations, etc., etc. J. B. TOG3VI. C. B. McCLENNY'S STABLES Jacksonville, Fla., OPPOSITE SAINT JAMES' & METROPOLITAN HOTELS. To Zet, with Careful 2>riyers. Horses, Buggies & Saddle-Horses FFRNISHED AT THE SHORTEST NOTICE. Omnibmet, Hacks and Baggage Wagons meet all Boats and Trains. ♦♦• Special attention paid to orders left at either Stable for Passengers or Baggage. DAMON GREENLEAF, JACKSONVILLE, Fla., DEALER IN ^atclieg, Clocfe jewelry, ^olid silver, AND -:o:- Watches, Clocks and Jewelry Repaired & Warranted. -:o:- FLORIDA CURIOSITIES. Do not fail while in Florida, to visit Greenleafs Museum of Florida Curiosities, connected with Green- leafs Jewelry Store, opposite the Market. Constantly on hand, the largest stock in the State of ea Beans, mounted in every style; Alligator Heads, Alligator Teeth, carved and mounted; Orange, Royal Palm, Palmetto, Break-axe, Mangrove, and other Canes. Pink Curlew Wings, Egret and Heron Plumes; Fla- mingo and Fawn Plumes ; Sea Shells and Coral ; Alligator Eggs, etc., etc. Sole Agent for the celebrated Bahamian Shell- Work. ©RY AND 3?ANCY G^OODS, FURCHGOTT, BENEDICT & OO.'S KNOWN AS THE TRADE PALACE. ¥l|e i]:\o^t "beautiful kqd fii^e^s't ^tofe ii) tl^e ^tkte. BAY STREET, Jacksonville^ Fla. Branch of CHARLESTON HOUSE, 275 liing St. New York Office, 86 Leonard Street. ^ALMETTO ^ATS, Carpets and Matting, a Specialty. ABia 1. 1111.411, 9 JACKSONVILLE, Fla., Hardware, Iron and Steel, Edge Tools, Table and Pocket Cutlery, Nails, Glue, Putty, Glass, Paints, Oils, Leather Belting, Rubber Packing, Stoves, Tinware, Crockery, Pumps i^i&© AJta tm^m wwE, DOORS, SASHES, BLINDS, MOULDINGS, SUGAR MILLS, EVAPORATORS, ETC. «as Fitting, Roofing, Jobbing, and Tin Smltlilng done to Order. E. P. ^VEBSTER & CO., DRUGGISTS & APOTHECARIES, SIOJV^ ''GOLDEN MORTAR." mmiWB mm§m, eA¥ m j^A c£:sojvrizzB, fz o^i^a. Persons, visiting Jacksonville, in need of pure Drugs and Medicines, fine Brandy, Wines, and other Liquors, Fancy Goods, Toilet Articles, fine Brushes, fine Soaps, fine Eau de Cologne, Florida Water, Rose Water, Orange-flower Water, Pomades, and every thing usually kept in a first-class Drug Store, — are invited to call, and look at our stock. The Compounding of Pre- scriptions made a Specialty. Satisfaction prom- ised in all cases. •V I s I T o rt iiliiil ^^'pS^'^'^yiGJ^ ^^OOK OUT rOR TK£ ^OLD^GN ^LLIGATOK, AT E. F. GILBERT'S Where, in addition to the finest stock of WATCHES, CLOCKS, JEWELRY, SILVER AND PLATED WARE, They will find the best collection of in the State, at the Lowest Cash Prices, comprising in part, Walking Canes, in every variety of beautiful native wood ; Alligator Teeth, carved or gold mounted ; Sea Beans, mounted in ■ new and beautiful designs j Sea Shell Jewelry, Crosses, Card Baskets, etc., of exquisite luorknian- ship J Flumes and Feathers of every hue ; Corals, and hundreds of the Native Beauties of Florida. Monograms, and Fancy Fng ravings a specialty. Fine JFatches and Chronometers repaired and rated. Remember Gilbert's sign of the Golden Alligator, Jacksonville, Florida. Charles L. Mather. Fi\ank E. Little C. L. MATHER & CO., W office bliildipg, jack^opVille, \k WHOLESALE AND RETAIL i®llSS, BOOKSELLERS & nEWSD^X^ERS. Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Savannah Daily Papers, a/so all the latest Magazines and Periodicals constajitly on hand. Parties visiting Florida can leave their subscriptions •with 7is, for any length of tifne, and the same will be promptly forwarded to any point accessible by mail. Guide Books, Railway Guides and Pocket Maps in great variety. Call and examine our stock before purchasing elsewhere. THE OLD RELIABLE BROCK'S LINE OF STEAMERS J RUSrarNG BETWEEN ON THE ST. JOHISr'S lilVER,, FLOItir>A. THE NEW AND ELEGANT PASSENGEK STEAMER Leaves JACKSONVILLE daily (except Sundays) for PALATKA and all Intermediate Points, and connecting with Steamers for ENTER- PRISE, CLAY SPRINGS, SALT LAKE, DUNN'S LAKE, and points on tlie OCKLAWAHA RIVER. At TOCOI witli ST. JOHN'S RAIL- ROAD for ST. AUGUSTINE, and returning to Jacksonville same evening in time to connect with all Northern Trains. THE FAVORITE STEAMERS "f)Sf{i[G^¥oK" iind "SS¥¥iE^" Leave JACKSONVILLE on Sundays and Wednesdays at 9 a. m., RcNNiNG THROUGH TO ENTERPRISE, and Stopping at all principal points on the River. The Old Reputation of this Popular Line will be fully sustained, and every Comfort Guaranteed to its Patrons. JACOB BROCK, Agent, Jachsonville, Fla- AND THE FAVORITE AjYD SPLE.YDID STEAMER, 'W? Captain L. M. COXETTER, LEA^'ES JAC•KSO^'\^LLE EVERY AND ALL IXrER2IEDIATE LANDINGS on the St. JOHN'S MfVUB. The Starlight has recently been thoroughly o-oerhauled, supplied 7uith new boilers and refurnished, and is iio:o in splendid order, offering the most as;reeable means of reach- ing points on the t-ppci' >^t. Jol|n\s', Iiidiaq kt|(l Odl^iAvhl^a f^ivci';^. Her passenger accommodations are unsurpassed^ and Iter table first-class. Close communication made with the Charleston and Savannah Steamers. For full information apply to [!)S^ & Co., S^f o^tietof^. The Putnam House has during the past Summer been put in thorough order, and an addition built containing forty comfortable rooms. The favorable reputation of the house will be maintained by the present proprietors, who promise nothing shall be left undone for the comfort of their guests. HART, LTNDE & CO. PALATKA, East Florida. P. & H. PETERMAN, Proprietors. This Hotel is newly furnished throughout A fine Billiard Room in connection with house, and guests will find everything for their comfort. N. H. MORAGNE, M. D., WHOLESALE & BETAIL PALATKA, EAST FLORIDA. Ju^lS/lES BURT, FALATKA, EAST FLORIDA. FOR THE ») i!'(«^ 'S^ >\4I. e -^'<.\-ii \$ The fine Steamers of the Hart Line connect at Palatka with the Charleston and Savannah Steamers, leaving on their arrival «"rf«/«^^y^„^^,^if6ilaf«- These boats have been put in good order and a fine new steamer added to the line, so that passengers will find on board every comfort and a good table. By this route they visit the 7nost remarkable and most beautiful River of Florida, the celebrated Silver Spring, and the noble Lakes Harris and Eustace. Sportsmen will find game abundant on the whole route. For full information apply to ?;s.^?|> ^^ <^^. ■iB I n ^ ■m^'i &>4i^. Situated six miles from Silver Springs, where a conveyatice meets every boat on the Oclawaha River. This honse is pleasantly situated in the flotLrishiiig town of Ocala^ encircled by pine groves, and acknowledged by the faculty as one of the most desirable winter resorts for invalids. Comfortable rooms and a good table fiirnished at moderate prices. E. I. HARRIS, Proprietor. aiA^i^^S^ m.^%s.m.mm rri/IB Brock House ^ beautifully situated on the shore of Lake Mu7iroe, will be foiuid by Invalids, Tourists and Sportsmen to combine every requisite for health, comfort^ and enjoyment. The rooms are large and comfortable, and the table excellent. Splendid boating, fishing and htuiting^ in the immediate vicinity of the Hotel. Arrangements ca7i be here made for con- veyances to Smyrna^ hidian River, etc. JACOB BROCK, Proprietor. /7\ JyiELLONVILLE SoUSE, MEhhomihrn. t< * ■ » '« This Hotel, commanding a splendid view of Lake Munroe, offers to the traveling public excellent accommoda- tions at reasonable prices. Surrounded by Groves of Pines, its advantages for invalids cannot be surpassed. Every facility for boating, hunting, fishing, and excur- sions to the Orange Groves and Mineral Springs of the neighborhood. All Steamers on the St. Johns stop at the Hotel land- ing, going and coming. TOGOI. This House has been put in co7nfortable order, and is ready to receive permanent and transient visitors. First-class beds and a " Cuisine',' in eveiy respect ufzexceptionable. JHeals furnished at any hour at short notice. CHARIiES THOMAS, Lessee. ,•-•••♦•♦*-» Estine FRONTING THE PLAZA AND SEA \VALL. ^»»" 77^^ St. Augzistme Hotel, co7mnanding a view of the bay and ocean, occupies the most desirable location in St. A^igustine. The reputation of the house as a first- class family hotel luill be maintained by the present proprietoi^s, and no effort be spared to provide every co?nfort to the traveler. THE Maaiiolia Hotel ST. GEORGE STREET, St. Augustine, Florida. W. W. PALMER, - - - - Proprietor. {Late HOUGHTON iS: FALJ/FJf.) This favorite Hoterirs been completely Rotiovatcd, internally s-.n 1 e-^- t maliy, antl now presents unsurimssed aeeommotlutiDn < for TOURISTS and INVALIDS. Sinirle rooms and family apannienle, cii. siiile. The aiisiiie is in every respect Uiie\'ce]itiiinabli'. Tlie Mhuik liu stands np'>n the liigljcsl jjrouud iii tiie eiiy, and couuuauds a fiuc view of the ocea.n ORIENTAL HOUSE, St. AU^STINE, Fla. , On the European Plan, $1 a day for occupying Room. This Hotel is entirely newly furnished, is First Class, and about two minutes' walk from Central Pier and Post Office. Restaurant for Ladies and Gentlemen attached to Hotel. H. G. POXCE & Oo., Pioprietoi-s. T. A. PACETTI, GRADUATED PlAllAClllISlj St. Augustine Hotel^ St. AUGUSTINE, Fla. MM* Dealer in Drugs, Medicines, Perfumery, etc. Speci- alty— fine old Liquors, viz., Brandy, Whiskey, Wines, etc. ; also. Cigars. Florida Souse, ?l. AUillSf lifE TE Florida House, tvhich all visitors to St. Au^- i^3 ustine Will remember, from tts agreeable location *^(^^ and cheerful appearance — situated on St. George's Street, has undergone most important changes the past summer. A wing has been added on St. George's St., con- taining seventy large, well-ventilated and cheerful rooms, and the whole house has been renovated and refurnished throughout. Guests will find the table in every way worthy of a first-class hotel, and the proprietor promises entire satis- faction to visitors. The house will be heated throughout and gas and other ■^ conveniences furnished in every room. I. H. REMER, Proprietor. (^^^^.^3^^ ®fc e&mge 8fc^ #fc M&gmtim DEALEES m ^/\r AT C U K S, Je^A^elry, Clocks, Plated-W^are, Cutlery and Spectacles, Sea Shells, Sea Beans, and Alligator Teeth, HAXDSOMJEL T GAM VED and MO UNTED. Corals, Bird Phtmcs, Feathers, Floivcrs, Palm Work, Coquina Ornaments and Walking Canes, in great variety. St. GEORGE ST., St. Augustine, Fla. ID. J". L O F E Z, DEAXER IS Brags, Eiikli^s, eiiirnkMs^ Fine Toilet Soaps, Brushes, Combs, etc. Fancy Articles, Perfumery in great variety, and pure Wines and Liquors, for Medicinal Purposes only. N. B. — Physicians, Prescriptions carefully Compound- ed. Foot of Central Wharf, opposite the St. Augustine Hotel. St. AUGUSTINE, Fla. WHOLESALE AND BETAIL DEALEB, IN 9 FURNITURE, HARDWARE, ,^ I N E S , 1 1 Q U O R S , Mobiuc0, §t0urs, pipes, %e. CHARLOTTE STREET, St. Augustine, E. Fla. oyA^./^ >L UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. R£G'U LD-JHL f70 ID-\H^V 1 $ ^W" Form L9-42to-8,'49(B5573)444 'ijICRafia ^ Jf 3 1158 00023 8526 AA 000 695 755 ilffi i!i