BEGONIAS 
 
 mC^aU^oKHca 
 
 H. M. BUTTERFIELD 
 
 ^Li 
 
 
 r CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE 
 
 l^f COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE • UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA • BERKELEY 
 
 CIRCULAR 1 62 
 
 JANUARY 1 950 
 
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 Care of fibrous-rooted and foliage types 3 
 
 Temperature and moisture 3 
 
 Soil and fertilizer 3 
 
 Irrigation and drainage 3 
 
 Tillage 4 
 
 Supporting 4 
 
 Pruning 4 
 
 Winter protection 4 
 
 Care of tuberous begonias 4 
 
 Temperature and moisture 4 
 
 Soil and fertilizer 4 
 
 Potting 5 
 
 Hanging baskets 5 
 
 Second blooms 5 
 
 Harvesting and storing tubers 6 
 
 Propagation 6 
 
 Seeding and seedlings 6 
 
 Stem and tip cuttings 7 
 
 Leaf cuttings 8 
 
 Dividing plants 8 
 
 Dividing tubers 9 
 
 Sprouting tubers 9 
 
 Insects and other pests 9 
 
 Aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and v/hite flies 9 
 
 Cyclamen mites 9 
 
 Nematodes 9 
 
 Diseases 10 
 
 Fungus diseases and v/ater molds 10 
 
 Bacteriosis 12 
 
 Virus diseases 12 
 
 Selecting begonia names 12 
 
 Classifying different kinds of begonias 14 
 
 Cane-stemmed fibrous 14 
 
 Hirsute or hairy 17 
 
 Rhizomatous or creeping-stem (except Rex-cultorum) 17 
 
 Rex (rhizomatous) 29 
 
 Bedding and florist 31 
 
 Semituberous 35 
 
 Tuberous 37 
 
 Rare or odd 41 
 
H. M. Butterfield 
 
 Agriculturist In Agricultural Extension 
 
 Begonias are tender tropical plants with 
 exacting requirements. They are success- 
 fully grown both outdoors and indoors in 
 California, wherever temperature, mois- 
 ture, and soil are suitable, and if fertiliz- 
 ing, pruning, and winter protection are 
 provided. Where only one fibrous-rooted 
 variety, Begonia manicata, was listed 
 
 in a California nursery catalog for 
 1858, some eight different classes with 
 their many varieties can now be de- 
 scribed. This increase has come about 
 primarily through hybridizing, which is 
 responsible for the majority of popular 
 classes now grown, including fibrous, 
 foliage, bedding, and tuberous. 
 
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 Temperature and Moisture. Most 
 begonias thrive in a temperature between 
 60° and 70° F, with the atmosphere mod- 
 erately moist. Fibrous begonias prefer 
 half shade without wind or draft. 
 
 Of the rex varieties some apparently 
 require more ventilation than a humid 
 greenhouse can offer, and some do well 
 with a minimum temperature of 55° F. 
 Still others thrive even in a lath house in 
 the warm, frost-free coastal district of 
 southern California. 
 
 Potted begonias may be grown in a 
 sun porch if moisture, temperature, and 
 light are satisfactory. Pots can also be 
 partly buried in the ground during the 
 summer, and protected against sun and 
 wind. 
 
 Soil and Fertilizer. Fibrous-rooted 
 and foliage begonias thrive in a soil con- 
 sisting of 2 parts oak-leaf mold, 1 part 
 sandy loam soil, and 1 part well-rotted 
 cow manure. If oak-leaf mold is not avail- 
 able, use a mixture of well-rotted sod or 
 turfy loam and add % ounce of super- 
 saturated alum to each gallon of water to 
 acidify the soil. Avoid alkaline soils and 
 irrigation water that contains a consider- 
 able amount of chlorine. 
 
 When preparing pots for plants, use 
 the same proportion of oak-leaf mold, 
 sandy loam soil, and well-rotted cow 
 manure. Two or 3 tablespoons of bone 
 meal and 1 teaspoon of ammonium phos- 
 phate may be added to the mixture for 
 a 5-inch pot. Include a small amount of 
 granulated charcoal if drainage is faulty. 
 This mixture drains well, is sufficiently 
 acid, and contains enough plant food for 
 satisfactory growth. Remember that new 
 roots tend to form above old roots, so use 
 a roomy pot and plenty of soil. Repot 
 older plants with new soil and, if neces- 
 sary, in larger pots. 
 
 With both young and old plants, use 
 a nitrogen fertilizer sparingly— if at all. 
 Well-rotted cow manure is a satisfactory 
 source of nitrogen. 
 
 Irrigation and Drainage. If a plant 
 shipped some distance arrives with dry 
 roots, soak the roots in water about 12 
 hours. Then pot the plant or set it out 
 under lath or in a protected spot. Water 
 it thoroughly, then do not add more water 
 until it has absorbed most of the available 
 moisture. Do not keep the soil about the 
 roots saturated. Good drainage is es- 
 sential. 
 
 [3 
 
After irrigating a potted plant, never 
 let it stand in water. If the lower part of 
 the pot stays too wet, the roots in that 
 portion will decay or will fail to develop. 
 If the pot is in a saucer or other container, 
 pour off all water not absorbed by the 
 soil within 20 to 30 minutes after irri- 
 gating. 
 
 Tillage. Fibrous-rooted begonias are 
 naturally shallow rooted and require no 
 cultivation. As the plant continues to 
 grow from year to year, the roots tend 
 to mat near the surface. Some growers 
 even suggest gradually building up the 
 soil over the top of the surface roots. 
 
 Supporting. Stake most of the tree- 
 type begonias to hold them upright. Use 
 a fairly substantial redwood stake, and 
 tie the plant to the stake with raffia, cord, 
 or with one of the special fasteners now 
 available. Support the smaller, weak- 
 stemmed plants with stained bamboo 
 stakes sold at all nurseries. Bamboo is 
 less permanent than redwood, however, 
 as it tends to rot off at the base. 
 
 Suspend the container holding the 
 pendent type of both fibrous and tuberous 
 varieties from the roof of the lath house 
 
 or the greenhouse, or place it on a 
 pedestal. Leave plenty of room for the 
 hanging stems to develop more or less 
 unrestrictedly. 
 
 Pruning. Prune fibrous begonias ac- 
 cording to the variety. Very tall tree be- 
 gonias become too leggy for house use. 
 Occasionally pinch back their growing 
 tips to force out laterals. This will make 
 the plant bushy. When a plant grows too 
 tall, without many laterals, severely cut 
 it back to sound buds. A new top will 
 then form. Use the parts removed for 
 stem cuttings. Strong-growing varieties 
 usually require more shortening-in than 
 weaker-growing varieties. Most gardeners 
 cut back bedding varieties of fibrous be- 
 gonias sometime during the fall or winter 
 months. 
 
 Winter Protection. Mulch fibrous 
 begonias planted outside or under lath 
 against low winter temperature with a 
 heavy blanket of leaves, or during cold 
 spells cover the entire plant with a double 
 layer of burlap. Even though the growing 
 tips are killed by frost, the covering may 
 save the base of the plants from which 
 new growth should push out in the spring. 
 
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 Temperature and Moisture. Not all 
 
 climates are ideal for growing tuberous 
 begonias. They are difficult to grow in 
 very warm regions except in a lath or a 
 muslin house, or in a well-ventilated 
 greenhouse air-conditioned to below 90° 
 F on hot summer days. While a tempera- 
 ture range of 65° to 70° F is highly favor- 
 able, very good results are possible in a 
 range of 65° to 80° F. High temperatures 
 tend to produce weak growth and smaller, 
 shorter-lasting flowers. On hot days the 
 plants will probably have to be heavily 
 shaded. Sprinkle the walks to increase the 
 humidity and help maintain a lower air 
 temperature. 
 
 Soil and Fertilizer. The great varia- 
 tion in California soils makes it difficult 
 to prepare outdoor beds for tuberous be- 
 gonias. Plan the beds to avoid direct sun- 
 light, yet give them sufficient light and 
 warmth for proper plant growth. 
 
 It is important to know something 
 about the ultimate size of the plants to 
 space them properly in the beds. With 
 favorable soil and climatic conditions, 
 they will probably reach a diameter of 
 several inches the first year. It is better 
 to plant a little too far apart than too 
 close. Some very serious diseases have 
 appeared in tuberous begonias planted 
 too close for good ventilation. 
 
 4] 
 
Before planting, enrich the bed with 
 well-rotted cow manure and perhaps a 
 little bone meal. The nitrogen from these 
 fertilizers becomes available very slowly; 
 it is never strong enough to injure the 
 plants. If the soil tends to be heavy and 
 compact or poorly drained, add leaf mold, 
 peat, and sand. 
 
 When the seedlings come through, 
 their growth can be improved under 
 many soil conditions by a fertilizer con- 
 taining both nitrogen and phosphorus. 
 Half a teaspoon of ammonium phosphate 
 placed around each plant which has 
 reached a height of 4 to 5 inches has 
 given very good results. Cottonseed meal 
 worked into the soil about the plant at 
 this stage of growth is also very satis- 
 factory. One or two applications in the 
 growing season will be sufficient under 
 most soil conditions. 
 
 Potting. Pot-grown tuberous begonias 
 need special soil and care. A mixture of 2 
 parts coarse leaf mold and 1 part fertile 
 loam soil not too fine in texture is satis- 
 factory. Before adding the soil mixture 
 to the pot, cover the drainage hole with a 
 broken piece of pot, then a 1-inch layer 
 of roofing gravel. Use small pots at first, 
 and transplant to larger pots when the 
 plants grow too large. Plant in 6- to 8-inch 
 pots old sprouted tubers which have al- 
 ready grown large root systems in the 
 storage flats. 
 
 The size of the pot often regulates the 
 size of the plants. In all potting work, 
 remember to leave the soil at least 1 inch 
 below the rim of the pot or basket to 
 permit watering. The regulation of mois- 
 ture about the roots of tuberous begonias 
 in pots is even more important than for 
 plants in outdoor beds, where excess 
 moisture usually drains away better. 
 Water only often enough to keep the sur- 
 face soil slightly moist. 
 
 Hanging Basicets. Tuberous bego- 
 nias growing in baskets usually require 
 slight shade. Keep the temperature some- 
 where around 65° to 75° F, and provide 
 proper and constant ventilation. 
 
 Hanging-basket varieties of tuberous 
 begonias may have the same soil mixture 
 used for potted plants. Either pots or 
 baskets may be used, but moisture is more 
 easily controlled in pots. Cover the out- 
 side of baskets with sphagnum moss. This 
 w ill retain the potting mixture, yet permit 
 good drainage. Helxine soleiroli is some- 
 times used as a green cover for the outside 
 of a basket before the moss is fastened 
 on, but it may prevent good drainage. Do 
 not water the hanging-basket varieties of 
 tuberous begonias too often; keep the 
 soil only slightly moist. 
 
 When 4 leaves have fully developed on 
 either a basket or a pot seedling, force 
 the plant with a light application of 
 liquid manure given weekly. Plants not 
 forced should thrive with a small amount 
 of cottonseed meal or ammonium phos- 
 phate. Place a half teaspoon of either fer- 
 tilizer near the edge of the pot or basket 
 once or twice a season. 
 
 Until basket-grown tuberous begonias 
 are well developed, remove all flower 
 buds. Allow only 1 to 3 stems for each 
 tuber. Encourage lateral growth by pinch- 
 ing out the tip of the first flower buds as 
 they appear. It should not be necessary to 
 prune the flowering plants heavily. Do 
 not cut the large main stems. Fungus in- 
 fections may be largely prevented by cut- 
 ting only half the stem when removing 
 the flower, and by leaving the rest of the 
 stem to drop off naturally. 
 
 Second Blooms. When the first crop 
 of blooms on tuberous begonias is over, 
 a second crop may be produced by resting 
 the plants for 2 or 3 weeks. Keep the soil 
 somewhat dry during this period. When 
 new shoots finally appear at the base of 
 the old stems, cut the old stems completely 
 back. Select 2 or 3 of the strongest shoots 
 for the second crop of flowers and remove 
 the rest. Stimulate the new growth by 
 raking into the soil around each plant 1 
 teaspoon of ammonium phosphate and 
 watering the plant thoroughly. Two flower 
 crops a season should be considered suf- 
 ficient in producing begonias. 
 
Harvesting and Storing Tubers. 
 
 When the foliage of tuberous begonias 
 begins to turn yellow, gradually stop 
 watering. Heavy fertilizing and watering 
 continued late into the season encourage 
 the plants to grow into the cold season. 
 This interferes with the early maturing 
 of the tubers. To prevent possible spread 
 of a Botrytis fungus, destroy all pieces of 
 
 the stem as they drop. As soon as the 
 stems are removed down to the tubers, 
 dig the tubers. Sometimes it may be neces- 
 sary to dig them before they are har- 
 vested. After digging the tubers, wash off 
 the soil and dry them for a day or two or 
 until all excess moisture has been re- 
 moved. They are then ready to store in 
 flats in a cool, dry place. 
 
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 Seeding and Seedlings. Begonia 
 seed is very small. It must be carefully 
 planted in specially selected and prepared 
 soil for satisfactory germination. 
 
 Plant the seed of fibrous-rooted bego- 
 nias around the first week in December 
 under greenhouse conditions. The seeds 
 should germinate in about 2 weeks at a 
 temperature of 70° to 75° F. The seed- 
 lings are usually ready to transplant to 
 flats or pots about the first or second week 
 of January. They should be ready to 
 transplant to outside borders or to perma- 
 nent pots sometime in April. The tem- 
 perature should not be lower than 65° F. 
 Bedding varieties of begonias usually 
 start to bloom about a month after the 
 last transplanting. 
 
 Plant the seed of tuberous begonias 
 from January to March. The seedlings 
 will then be ready to transplant about 3 
 months later. January seedlings should 
 begin to flower in June or July. 
 
 Seed of the rex varieties is handled in 
 the same way. 
 
 Clean and sterilize containers for seed- 
 ing. Old containers can be used if they are 
 first sterilized, soaked in water for a day 
 or two, and scrubbed with a steel brush. 
 Shallow fern pans serve very well for 
 growing small lots of seed. Small-sized 
 seed flats may be used for larger lots. 
 
 To insure good drainage, place 2 
 inches of gravel in the bottom of the con- 
 tainer. Add a 1-inch layer of potting mix- 
 ture consisting of % coarse leaf mold 
 and % peat moss. Smooth the surface 
 
 gently without compacting the soil, and 
 cover with a %-inch layer of the same 
 potting mixture finely sieved. This makes 
 a very good seedbed. 
 
 Scatter the seed carefully over the sur- 
 face of the potting mixture. Do not press 
 it in, or the soil will become too compact 
 for good drainage. It is best to sow the 
 seed rather thinly. This helps prevent 
 damping-off and other troubles likely to 
 occur if the seedlings are planted too 
 close together. 
 
 Before planting the seed, either stand 
 the container in water until the moisture 
 reaches the surface, or plant the seed, 
 then set the container in water until the 
 moisture reaches the surface. In either 
 method, it is very important not to dis- 
 lodge the seed by overhead sprinkling. 
 
 After the seed is planted and the soil 
 moistened, cover the container with glass 
 and a sheet of paper, then set it away in 
 a dark place for 2 or 3 weeks. If the loca- 
 tion is windy, place the paper under the 
 glass. 
 
 A night temperature of 65° to 70° F 
 is favorable for germinating the seed of 
 tuberous begonias and of many kinds of 
 fibrous begonias. If the temperature falls 
 much below 65° F, germination may be 
 seriously retarded. Fresh seed under the 
 most favorable conditions of temperature 
 and moisture should produce seedlings 
 at the end of 2 weeks. Seed not so fresh 
 or grown under less favorable conditions 
 may require at least 3 weeks to germinate. 
 
 As soon as the seedlings begin to break 
 
 6] 
 
through, remove the paper covering for 
 more light. An even supply of overhead 
 light will encourage the best growth. More 
 ventilation will also be needed as the 
 young seedlings appear. At first lift the 
 glass or push it partly aside. If the seed- 
 lings are protected from direct sunlight 
 in a shaded greenhouse, remove the glass 
 after 3 or 4 days. The ventilation within 
 the propagating house will regulate the 
 time for removing the glass cover. There 
 is always more or less danger of damping- 
 off if ventilation is poor during the first 
 2 weeks after the seedlings appear. 
 
 The young seedlings must be kept uni- 
 formly moist. Do not let them dry out at 
 any time. On the other hand, avoid too 
 frequent watering. Warm the water 
 slightly. If the seedlings show signs of 
 damping-off, treat the surface soil as dis- 
 cussed in the section on diseases. 
 
 To transplant seedlings, fill the flats to 
 a depth of 1 to 1% inches with the same 
 soil mixture used to germinate the seeds. 
 
 It is not necessary to use a deep layer of 
 soil; in fact, the seedling begonias may be 
 transplanted when they have developed 
 their third leaf. In the first transplanting, 
 set them about 1 inch apart. Before they 
 become too crowded, transplant them a 
 second time, and set them 3 or 4 inches 
 apart. 
 
 Stem or Tip Cuttings. For rooting 
 these cuttings, combine 10 parts coarse 
 No. 3 or No. 4 sand with 1 part peat moss. 
 Vermiculite and other rooting mediums 
 may also be used. Do not try to root cut- 
 tings outside unless moisture and tem- 
 perature conditions are satisfactory. Such 
 conditions are easier to control in a prop- 
 agating box or frame. 
 
 Tip cuttings of all begonias should 
 have part of the leaf surface removed to 
 avoid excessive loss of moisture during 
 the rooting period (fig. 1). Cuttings of 
 fibrous begonias may be rooted at almost 
 any time of the year under favorable 
 growing conditions. They will even root 
 
 Fig. 1. — Stem cuttings of begonias prepared for rooting. These are ready to be 
 inserted into the rooting mixture. 
 
 7J 
 
in water with only an inch or two of the 
 base immersed. Bedding varieties of fi- 
 brous begonias, such as the Begonia 
 semper flor ens group, require a tip cutting 
 of only 2 or 3 inches for rooting under 
 greenhouse conditions during the winter 
 months. 
 
 The best time to root stem cuttings, 
 however, is from the first week of Novem- 
 ber on into January, if an electric hotbed 
 with bottom heat (65° to 70° F) is avail- 
 able. If such equipment is not available, 
 root the cuttings during the regular 
 growing season when temperature con- 
 ditions are favorable. Early rooting— 
 preferably during the winter months— will 
 give commercial growers a full season's 
 growth by the following winter. This is 
 very important if potted plants are to be 
 sold during the Christmas season. Plants 
 with a full year's growth will probably be 
 somewhat more resistant to cold weather 
 than tender young plants. 
 
 Leaf Cuttings. Many varieties of be- 
 gonias valued for their foliage may be 
 propagated by leaf cuttings in late winter 
 or early spring. Use the same type of 
 rooting medium used for stem or tip cut- 
 tings. The size of the leaf cutting will vary 
 according to the kind of begonia. Cutting 
 across a begonia leaf and inserting the 
 edge of the cut surface in the rooting 
 medium is not satisfactory. Some amateur 
 growers insert the stem of a leaf in sand 
 or water and wait for the leaf to form a 
 new plant. It is often preferable to use a 
 wedge-shaped or triangular piece made 
 by cutting on either side of one of the 
 main veins of the leaf, with the pointed 
 end down toward the petiole (fig. 2). 
 The pointed end is inserted in the rooting 
 medium. With a bottom temperature of 
 70° F, rooting should take place within 
 a few weeks. The new plant will rise from 
 the base of the leaf cutting (fig. 3) . Keep 
 the humidity of the air immediately sur- 
 rounding the leaf cutting fairly high until 
 rooting has taken place. 
 
 Dividing Plants. As soon as growing 
 conditions are favorable in the spring, 
 
 Fig. 2. — Wedge-shaped leaf cuttings ready for 
 rooting. 
 
 Fig. 3. — Small plants developing at base of 
 wedge-shaped cutting. 
 
various bedding begonias may be prop- 
 agated by dividing the mother plants. 
 Separate the rooted portions of the mother 
 plant with a sharp knife. Plant each sec- 
 tion, with the roots attached, and care- 
 fully tend it until it is well established. 
 One plant of bedding begonias might be 
 divided into 3 or 4 parts. While rooted 
 cuttings are generally more satisfactory, 
 the division of the mother plant may work 
 out successfully in a home garden. 
 
 Dividing Tubers. It is possible to in- 
 crease tuberous begonias from January to 
 March by dividing the tuber with a sharp 
 knife so that at least one good bud is left 
 with each section of the tuber. This 
 method is limited mainly to the extremely 
 large tubers 5 or 6 inches in diameter. 
 
 Dust the cut surface with sulfur to pre- 
 vent infection. Drying the cut tubers for 
 a few days before planting is a further 
 precaution. 
 
 The best method of increasing a par- 
 ticularly valuable tuberous begonia is by 
 using cuttings. 
 
 Sprouting Tubers. Tubers may be 
 sprouted in January, February, or March 
 in an open flat in a warm, shaded place. 
 Many growers hold the moisture about 
 the sprouting tubers with peat moss or 
 sphagnum moss. As soon as the sprouts 
 appear, plant the tubers, with the top 
 third exposed, about 3 inches apart in 
 flats. Cover them with peat moss only, and 
 keep the moss barely moist to insure 
 proper growth of the tops and roots. Pre- 
 vent fungus troubles on the new growth 
 by keeping the top of the tuber dry. This 
 method of sprouting produces a uniform 
 lot of tubers. 
 
 When the leaves are 3 to 4 inches in 
 diameter, set the plants in pots or perma- 
 nent beds. In outside beds, face the points 
 of the leaves toward the front. 
 
 Aphids, Mealybugs, Thrips, and 
 White Flies. Begonias are not often at- 
 tacked by these insects. In an attack, con- 
 trol with highly refined oil-emulsion 
 sprays, allowing about 2 per cent or 2% 
 ounces to the gallon of water. Nicotine or 
 pyrethrum added to the summer oil in- 
 creases its effectiveness. 
 
 For white fly control, spray the under- 
 sides of the leaves thoroughly. Several ap- 
 plications may be necessary. 
 
 Cyclamen Mites. When this mite oc- 
 casionally attacks the foliage of tuberous 
 begonias it seriously stunts their growth 
 (fig. 4). Immersing the entire pot of be- 
 gonias in warm water (110° F) for 30 
 minutes, or exposing it to hot vapor 
 (110° F) for 1 hour should aid in control. 
 
 Nematodes. At times begonias are 
 very seriously attacked by both the root- 
 knot nematode and a leaf-infesting nema- 
 tode that causes a disease sometimes 
 called leaf spot or blight. 
 
 The root-knot nematode can best be 
 
 controlled by starting with healthy plants 
 and clean soil. But when its presence is 
 indicated by numerous nodules on the 
 roots of both tuberous and fibrous varie- 
 ties, immediately discard infested plants. 
 Although this process should eliminate 
 the nematodes, if begonias are grown out- 
 side it is extremely difficult to eradicate 
 them completely. 
 
 Carbon disulfide has been recom- 
 mended for sterilizing soils, but if the 
 treatment is not 100 per cent effective, the 
 remaining nematodes will increase and 
 in time become as troublesome as their 
 ancestors. A new product— DD— can ef- 
 fectively kill most of the nematodes in a 
 new bed before planting, but the treat- 
 ment must be repeated each year before 
 planting time. The standard treatment in 
 commercial greenhouses is to sterilize the 
 infested soil or to treat it with a soil pas- 
 teurizer to kill all nematodes before plant- 
 ing time. Certain nitrogen fertilizers used 
 as growth stimulants tend to reduce the 
 
 [9] 
 
injurious effect of root-knot nematodes, 
 but nothing short of clean plants and 
 clean soil is satisfactory. 
 
 The leaf nematode is uncommon in 
 California although it has been reported 
 on varieties of Begonia semper fl or ens and 
 on some tuberous and foliage begonias. 
 The moist conditions in a greenhouse, 
 where frequently sprinkled potted bego- 
 nias touch one another, are ideal for the 
 spread of this pest. Since no adequate 
 treatment is known, start with healthy 
 plants and use only soil that has been 
 properly sterilized to kill any nematodes 
 present. So far as possible, keep potted 
 plants separated so that the leaves do not 
 
 touch. With these precautions, the leaf 
 nematode should not be a problem. 
 
 If bulb and leaf nematodes become 
 troublesome, it might be justifiable to 
 invest in a small-capacity portable tank 
 for treating bulbs in hot water. A tank of 
 this type is described in popular Bulletin 
 184 of Washington State Agricultural 
 Experiment Station (1947). This tank 
 has a capacity of 150 gallons, and a treat- 
 ing chamber 24 inches wide, 24 inches 
 high, and 48 inches long. It is operated 
 with a 25-ampere fuse on a 110-volt elec- 
 tric line, and is reported to give very ac- 
 curate control of temperature. It should 
 be suitable for specialty growers. 
 
 The begonia is listed as a host plant for 
 many diseases, but the ordinary gardener 
 and the commercial grower are interested 
 in only a few. 
 
 Fungus Diseases and Water Molds. 
 These are best controlled by starting with 
 well-drained soil not used before for 
 growing begonias or similar plants. Avoid 
 watering too often, especially during the 
 period of the year when the roots are 
 more or less inactive. 
 
 The black root rot caused by the 
 fungus Thielaviopsis hasicola has at times 
 very seriously attacked the roots of seed- 
 ling begonias. These begonias may also 
 be attacked by damping-off fungi, such 
 as species of Rhizoctonia and Pythium. 
 To avoid such troubles, use chloropicrin 
 (commercial larvicide) at the rate of 0.5 
 cc per gallon of screened soil. The soil 
 should be moist and of good potting tex- 
 ture. Treat it in a closed metal container. 
 This dosage will kill practically all plant 
 pathogenic bacteria, fungi, and nema- 
 todes present. After treatment, allow the 
 soil to stand outdoors for 4 days to 1 
 week, then air it for 1 to 2 weeks on a 
 greenhouse bench before using it. 
 
 Various water molds at times attack 
 begonia plants in poorly drained soil. 
 
 One is Phytophthora root rot, and another 
 is Pythium root rot. Pythium has been re- 
 ported on a red-flowered variety of Bego- 
 nia semper flor ens, while a pink variety 
 growing near by was not affected. 
 
 Stem rot may be caused by either Pyth- 
 ium intermedium or P. ultimum (fig. 5) 
 in plants of any size or age. These fungi 
 are especially serious if the soil is wet and 
 the air is moist and warm. Soft, water- 
 soaked lesions extend lengthwise on the 
 plant stem, and may cause it to collapse. 
 Begonia lloydi is susceptible to both 
 Pythium species. Control the disease by 
 using sterile soil and sterile containers. 
 Avoid excessive moisture, and spray with 
 mild copper fungicides. 
 
 Botrytis cinerea produces begonia 
 blight (fig. 6) , which causes serious dam- 
 age at times. The fungus infection attacks 
 the stems and leaves of tuberous begonias 
 grown under very humid and poorly ven- 
 tilated conditions. Diseased areas on the 
 leaves or stems enlarge rapidly and turn 
 black, and a brownish-gray mold then ap- 
 pears. Gather and destroy all dead parts 
 that fall, and remove all parts visibly af- 
 fected by the fungus. Better ventilation 
 and less humidity about the plants will 
 help to prevent Botrytis. Keep the soil 
 
 10 
 
"r% % 
 
 '^^ 
 
 '€jr 
 
 ,, i 
 
 
 (Photos on this page courtesy Division of Plant Pathology.) 
 
 Fig. 4. — Injury to tuberous begonia caused by the cyclamen mite. 
 
 Fig. 5. — Pythium intermedium on young 
 tuberous begonia plant. 
 
 r"-"5r 
 
 Fig. 6. — Botrytis cinerea damage to tuberous 
 begonia in greenhouse. 
 
 [11] 
 
moisture of newly planted begonias some- 
 what dry until new growth begins to push 
 rapidly. A weak bordeaux-mixture spray 
 or an ammoniacal copper-carbonate spray 
 may aid in control. 
 
 Powdery mildew is not common on be- 
 gonias, although it has been reported on 
 tuberous kinds. Various commercial mil- 
 dew sprays help in its control. Mildew 
 will probably not be troublesome if the 
 foliage is kept relatively dry. 
 
 At times several kinds of leaf spot at- 
 tack begonias, but these are not important 
 if ventilation is good and humidity is not 
 excessive. Under greenhouse conditions, 
 it is important to keep any moisture from 
 dripping on the leaves. 
 
 Bacteriosis. A leaf spot of tuberous 
 begonias has been observed in lath houses 
 at Capitola, Colma, and San Francisco. 
 The causal organism has been identified 
 as a bacterium, Xanthomonas begoniae 
 (Phytomonas flavozonatum) (fig. 7). 
 Varieties of the fibrous begonia Begonia 
 semperflorens have also proved highly 
 susceptible. These include Christmas 
 Cheer, Fire Dwarf, Prima Donna, Rosa- 
 belle, Salmon Queen, and Vernon. Other 
 varieties of fibrous begonias infected in- 
 clude B. erfordi, B. scharffi (haageana) , 
 
 and B. schmiddana. The tuberous varie- 
 ties infected were B. tuberhybrida, B. 
 lloydi, and B. gracilis var. luminosa. 
 Since the disease occurs only when hu- 
 midity is high and plants are crowded, 
 reduce overhead watering and confine ir- 
 rigation as much as possible to the soil 
 about the plants. 
 
 Virus Disease. Spotted wilt (fig. 8) 
 is a dangerous virus disease that attacks 
 begonias. No cure is known. Certain 
 kinds of thrips that have fed on a diseased 
 plant carry the virus to healthy host 
 plants. 
 
 It is easier to keep infective thrips away 
 from healthy plants in a greenhouse than 
 in a lath house or in an open garden. 
 While DDT and pyrethrum sprays effec- 
 tively kill thrips, sprays do not usually 
 prevent the spread of spotted wilt. In spite 
 of a good spray program, an infection can 
 start by infective thrips flying in large 
 numbers late in the summer. A more 
 promising control is to discard all host 
 plants known to have spotted wilt. This 
 will prevent the thrips from becoming in- 
 fective. Examine new plants carefully to 
 be certain that they are free from spotted 
 wilt before they are placed with healthy 
 
 ones. 
 
 No official rules govern the selection 
 of horticultural names; therefore, no 
 rules govern the choice of names for be- 
 gonias. Most horticulturists agree that 
 given names of varieties should be reg- 
 istered with some central organization to 
 prevent duplication. If duplication exists, 
 and the name is widely used, most nurs- 
 erymen prefer to retain the old name and 
 add a distinguishing term— for instance, 
 Pres. Carnot (rex) to distinguish from 
 the cane variety Pres. Carnot. 
 
 Occasionally a name is arbitrarily 
 changed without the consent of the living 
 originator. This questionable practice 
 causes more confusion than retaining 
 
 the original name. Giving a botanical- 
 sounding name to a horticultural variety 
 or hybrid should be frowned upon; yet, 
 if a botanical name already exists, retain- 
 ing it will prevent the confusion of learn- 
 ing a new name. 
 
 A group of varieties of similar nature— 
 as that between two species of begonias 
 —is listed under a series name. This name 
 often is that of one of the more popular 
 varieties within the series, such as sem- 
 perflorens series or Gloire de Lorraine 
 series. More recently, attempts have been 
 made to apply an entirely new, botanical- 
 sounding name to such series, as Begonia 
 cheimantha for the varieties in the Gloire 
 
 12 
 
de Lorraine group, which includes crosses 
 between B. socotrana and B. dregei. Simi- 
 larly, the varieties resulting from a cross 
 between B. socotrana and various tuber- 
 ous varieties, which are known for their 
 winter-blooming habit, have been listed 
 under the Hiemalis group. 
 
 It is still debatable whether the use of 
 such names for a hybrid group lessens 
 the existing confusion. Many of the older 
 begonia fanciers and nurserymen would 
 rather list the particular kinds of crosses 
 under the older headings than try to use 
 an entirely new name which is not yet 
 generally recognized or accepted. 
 
 Organizations interested in standardiz- 
 ing horticultural names need to establish 
 
 some sound basis for preventing future 
 duplication. This would do more toward 
 averting further confusion in varietal 
 names than legislating on each case as it 
 arises. Publicizing all general agreements 
 would then inform individual breeders 
 of any change in varietal names. 
 
 In the following tables, the nature of 
 the crosses is given if definitely known. 
 In most cases the date of discovery or in- 
 troduction, which is approximately cor- 
 rect, is also given. 
 
 Group names mostly follow the older 
 terms. Whenever a particular group name 
 becomes generally recognized, however, 
 it will be followed, regardless of what it 
 may be. 
 
 
 % % 
 
 
 k 
 
 
 % 
 
 {Photos cotiiifsy Diviiion oj Plant Pathology.) 
 
 Fig. 7. — Left : A bacterial leaf spot on tuberous begonia. Fig. 8. — Right : spotted wilt 
 
 on tuberous begonia. 
 
 13] 
 
In trying to classify or group different 
 kinds of begonias, certain outstanding 
 characteristics of stems, leaves, and flow- 
 ers are considered. Unfortunately, popu- 
 lar classifications often fail to indicate 
 the important differences known to most 
 fanciers, but they do give growers a better 
 acquaintance with begonias now grown. 
 
 Cane-stemmed Fibrous. There are 
 three types of cane-stemmed begonias: 
 tall or tree, medium height, and low 
 growing. Lucerna is a popular tall or tree 
 type of cane-stemmed begonia (fig. 9). 
 The tall tree type reaches a height of 
 10 feet or more. Argenteo-guttata, the 
 medium-height type, is more spreading 
 (fig. 10). Begonia olbia represents the 
 low-growing type. Cane-stemmed bego- 
 nias in general have smooth leaves of 
 various shapes. Table 1 lists this class. 
 
 Fig. 9. — Right: Lucerna {corallina Lucerna) , 
 perhaps the most common of the tall cane vari- 
 eties. Fig. 10. — Below: Argenteo-guttata, a very 
 popular spreading cane variety. 
 
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 Hirsute or Hairy. Hairy leaves and 
 stems (hirsute character) have given the 
 name hirsute to this class of begonias. 
 The class includes varieties of different 
 habits of growth and different leaf forms, 
 but does not include begonias with rhi- 
 zomes, although some rhizomatous kinds 
 do have hairy leaf stems. Table 2 groups 
 varieties with similar leaves, and calls at- 
 tention to important characteristics. 
 
 Rhizomatous or Creeping Stem 
 (Except Rex-Cultorum). This group is 
 in contrast to the upright caned-stem 
 varieties. Rhizomatous stems are found 
 on rex begonias and on some smooth- 
 leaved fibrous begonias. A further sub- 
 division indicates the form and size of 
 leaf and whether the rhizomatous stems 
 of certain rex begonias branch or not. 
 There are also miniature or dwarf forms 
 of rex begonias whose small leaves are 
 grouped separately. All of these groups 
 have fibrous roots. 
 
 Within the general group are three dis- 
 tinct types of leaves: plain, star, and 
 spiraled or crested forms that may have 
 originated from the plain-leaved varieties 
 first listed in this class. The star type in- 
 cludes a group with variable leaves on the 
 same plant, but the leaves of most groups 
 are uniformly palmate with deeply in- 
 cised lobes that give the name star bego- 
 nia. There are two distinct forms, one of 
 the Begonia ricinifolia (fig. 16, p. 21) 
 and Sunderbruchi type, the other repre- 
 sented by such varieties as Silver Star, 
 Carol Star, Mrs. Mary Peace, and Green 
 Star (fig. 17, p. 22). B. car oliniae folia is 
 a parent in the second group, while B. 
 ricinifolia seems to be a dominant parent 
 in the first group. 
 
 In the spiraled and crested types, one, 
 called helix, has spiraled leaves with basal 
 leaf lobes twisting around like a snail. 
 Another type has crested margins. The 
 curly or frilled growth distinguishes it 
 from the spiraled type. 
 
 Table 3, page 23, lists some of the vari- 
 eties of these three types. 
 
 [17] 
 
Fig. 11. — Right: Nightingale, a California 
 cane variety similar to Lucerna except for the 
 ruffled leaf margins. 
 
 Fig. 12. — Below, left: Begonia incarnata, an 
 improved form with larger leaves. 
 
 Fig. 13. — Below, right: Begonia acutangula, 
 a variety of B. angularis, developed about 1935 
 and prized for its excellent leaves and vigorous 
 growth. 
 
 i&M 
 
 [18] 
 
Fig. 14. — Begonia luxurians, a bpecies. with palmlike, compound leaves, gives 
 tropical effect in the lathhouse. 
 
 Fig. 15. — Begonia Scharffi {B. haageana) , one of the most popular species in the hirsute group. 
 
 [19] 
 
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 cross of B. heracleifolia and B. peponifolia) , 
 originated in England in 1847. 
 
 [21] 
 
Fig. 17. — Green Star, with star-shaped, green leaves blotched with silver. Fig. 18. — Bunchi, prized 
 
 for its ruffled and crested leaf margins. 
 
 Fig. 19. — Erythrophylla, a rhizomatous, German variety, renamed Feasti when introduced 
 
 into America about 1880. 
 
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 Resembles B. herac- 
 leifolia more than Ri- 
 cinifolia 
 
 Seedling of Ricinifo- 
 lia; excellent pot plant 
 for large rooms and 
 conservatories 
 
 Leaves doubtless ac- 
 count for star-shaped 
 leaves in derivatives 
 
 
 Similar to Silver Star, 
 except for greener 
 leaves 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 CO 
 
 ii 
 
 2 
 
 5^ 
 
 
 Leaves resemble castor 
 bean ; hairy leaf stems ex- 
 tend out 1-1 K'; large, 
 pointedly lobed to }4 
 depth 
 
 Blend of dark green, em- 
 erald, and bronzy green; 
 up to 7 fingerlike lobes 
 
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 ■■3 
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 11 
 
 1 
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 ii 
 
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 Large, ovate, shallow 
 lobed; toothed; fleshy; 
 glossy green 
 
 
 
 
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 Rhizomes thick, 
 nearly erect; only 
 rarely branched 
 
 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 Grown by A. D. Rob- 
 inson many years 
 ago 
 
 
 £1 
 o5* 
 
 > 
 
 Ricinifolia (see fig. 16) 
 (B. heracleifolia X B. 
 peponifolia) 
 
 Sunderbruchi (Ricini- 
 folia X B. heraclei- 
 folia) 
 
 ^ 
 
 n 
 
 Carol Star (B. carolini- 
 aefolia X Sunder- 
 bruchi) 
 
 Green Star (B. caro- 
 liniaefolia X B. lieb- 
 manni) (see fig. 17) 
 
Chance seedling re- 
 sembling B. caroliniae- 
 folia 
 
 
 Slender, arching 
 flower stems ; loose 
 clusters ; pink 
 
 
 Deeply incised ; 6-8 leaf- 
 lets not entirely separated 
 down to petiole as in spe- 
 cies ; dark green ; margins 
 wavy and coarsely 
 toothed ; red beneath 
 
 
 
 
 IS 
 
 2 
 
 OH 
 
 03 
 
 Silver Star (B. caro- 
 liniaefolia X B. lieb- 
 manni) 
 
 
 Also crispate form of 
 B. manicata aureo- 
 maculata called crispa ; 
 varieties resemble 
 parents except for odd 
 leaf formation 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 Is 
 
 .52 
 
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 li 
 11 
 
 See also spiraled leaf 
 form of rex begonias 
 
 (p. 30) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 03 
 
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 Calif., 1938; dev. at 
 Lewis Begonia Gar- 
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 Center and border of leaves dusky 
 brown ; irregular zone of raised daphne- 
 red blotches 
 
 Ovate ; 5-7 lobed ; silvered, with olive- 
 green center; bright green margins 
 silver spotted and ruffled ; pinkish pur- 
 ple cast over surface 
 
 1 
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 Round, rough at center, with dark olive- 
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 Very ruffled, spiraled lobes ; center and 
 narrow edge olive brown or bronze; 
 main field green with faint spots 
 
 To 1' long; ovate; one or both basal 
 lobes curled; pea green flushed with 
 purple 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 & 
 
 Comptesse Louise 
 Erdoedy (Erdody) (see 
 fig. 22) 
 
(/) 
 
 
 
 .2 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 •43 
 
 
 
 
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 •c 
 
 Small, palmate ; spiraled with palmate 
 greenish-olive center ; main body white 
 fretted pattern on edge of emerald 
 green shading to greenish olive 
 
 Both lobes spiraled; hairy, with oUve- 
 black center, and zone of pea green 
 edged with ivy green 
 
 1 
 
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Rex (Rhizomatous). The rex bego- 
 nias of today are hybrids of the original 
 Begonia rex, and are widely listed under 
 B. rex-cultorum. Varieties differ in size 
 of leaf and plant, in color pattern of the 
 leaf, and in formation of the leaf, as in 
 the spiraled or helix type. 
 
 One group has leaves with outstanding 
 silver spots, such as Pres. Carnot (rex) 
 (fig. 20). Another group has plushlike 
 soft hairs on the young leaves, and rather 
 obscure color bands in different shades of 
 green. Fireflush (Bettina Rothschild is 
 listed as the original name) and Queen 
 of Hanover are specimens of this group. 
 Another group of rex varieties has rather 
 distinct color bands closely following the 
 contour of the shallowly lobed leaves. 
 
 Lesoudsi (fig. 21) is representative of 
 this group. The spiraled or helix shape is 
 represented by Comptesse Louise Erdoedy 
 (Erdody) (fig. 22). Branching of the 
 rhizomes occurred in hybrids Begonia 
 rex and B. evansiana. This group is known 
 as the branching or discolor type. Abel 
 Carriere, introduced to the trade in 
 France in 1876, was one of the first of this 
 type. 
 
 The miniature or small-leaved rex va- 
 rieties have caused considerable confu- 
 sion when listed. lUustrata and It have at 
 times been erroneously listed under this 
 heading. Several true miniature rex varie- 
 ties will become available shortly. 
 
 Table 4 lists some of the varieties under 
 this classification. 
 
 Fig. 20. — President Carnot (rex) , an old, popular variety with large leaves that are blotched 
 
 with raised silver spots. 
 
 [29] 
 
Fig. 21.— Top: Lesoudsi, a French rex begonia introduced in 1885. Fig. 22.— Center: Comptesse 
 Louise Erdoedy, a spiral-leaved form of rex begonia. Fig. 23. — Bottom: Begonia fuchsioides has 
 very small, two-ranked leaves. Makes an ornamental spray, and has been used as a hedge plant. 
 
 [30] 
 
Bedding and Florist. Bedding bego- 
 nias include the small, low-growing, 
 many-flowered kinds. This group has 
 been developed largely from Begonia 
 semper flor ens or from hybrids between 
 this and other species, such as B. juchsio- 
 ides (fig. 23), B. roezli, and B. schmidt- 
 iana. The name semperflorens series came 
 into common use for this particular 
 group, regardless of the exact parentage, 
 through the importance of B. semper- 
 florens in early breeding. More recently 
 growers have suggested lumping this hy- 
 brid group under B. semperflorens- 
 cultorum, similar to the grouping under 
 B. rex-cultorum. The choice of name 
 seems immaterial as long as growers are 
 generally agreed to it. 
 
 The Gloire de Lorraine series was pro- 
 duced by Lemoine in France in 1891 by 
 crossing Begonia socotrana, a bulbous 
 species from Socotra in the Indian Ocean, 
 with B. dregei, a semibulbous species. 
 The winter-flowering habit imparted by 
 B. dregei accounts for its popularity. 
 Most of the varieties are grown as potted 
 plants, and are more appropriately asso- 
 ciated with florist varieties than with 
 tuberous varieties. Their winter-blooming 
 habit has given them the name of winter 
 begonias. The varieties of the Gloire de 
 Lorraine series cannot be used for bed- 
 ding. They are florist begonias only. 
 
 Another group of hybrids may be as- 
 sociated with the same group or series— 
 namely, crosses between B. socotrana and 
 other species or varieties, such as B. in- 
 carnata. The hybrid varieties are winter 
 blooming, have large flowers, pleasing in 
 color. 
 
 Table 5 lists certain varieties of these 
 groups. 
 
 Fig. 24. — Top : Gloire de Chatelaine, a fibrous- 
 rooted begonia of the semperflorens group. 
 
 Fig. 25. — Center: Calla begonia, a variegated 
 form of the Vernon group of bedding types. 
 
 Fig. 26. — Bottom : Begonia Richardsoni, a semi- 
 tuberous species valued for its small, maplelike 
 leaves, pinkish-white flowers, and bushy growth. 
 
Hybrid of B. semper- 
 florens X B. schmidt- 
 iana; excellent bed- 
 ding variety 
 
 
 Hybrid of B. semper- 
 florens X B. fuchsi- 
 oides miniata; stands 
 sun very well; excel- 
 lent for bedding pur- 
 poses 
 
 Cross between Vernon 
 X B. schmidtiana; 
 popular for bedding 
 purposes 
 
 Popular bedding and 
 pot plant for florist 
 sale 
 
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 Variety of Geneva 
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 Semituberous. A few kinds of bego- 
 nias with swellings at the base of the stems 
 are classified as semituberous. They may 
 have slender stems, similar to the cane- 
 stemmed class, but are justifiably placed 
 in a separate group by their bushy habit 
 of growth and the swellings at the base of 
 the stems. These begonias, listed in table 
 6, are valued mostly as foliage plants. 
 
 Fig. 27. — Top : Single tuberous begonia, cris- 
 tata, or crested, type. Fig. 28. — Bottom: The 
 frilled, or crispa, type of single tuberous 
 begonia. 
 
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 Tuberous. Plants in this group have 
 distinct tubers which can be used for 
 propagation. Seedlings or rooted cuttings 
 immediately form tubers at the base, and 
 these live over from one season to the 
 next. 
 
 Varieties are classified according to 
 the shape of the flower and the habit of 
 the plant. In the hanging-basket type, va- 
 rieties of Begonia lloydi (see B. holivien- 
 sis, table 7) sometimes referred to as B. 
 pendula, are frequently grown in hanging 
 baskets, but the rest of the tuberous be- 
 gonias, including both single and double 
 forms, are more or less upright in habit 
 of growth. Their flowers may be single or 
 double, and a few hybrids are winter 
 bloomers. 
 
 The single varieties are available in 
 sevieral forms: plain single without frills 
 or crests; crested single (fig. 27), often 
 referred to as the cristata type, with a 
 crested growth on each of the four petals ; 
 frilled single, referred to as the crispa 
 type (fig. 28), with edges of the petals 
 more or less deeply frilled (dealers some- 
 times refer to this type as crispa margi- 
 nata) ; and narcissiflora type, very closely 
 resembling the trumpet daffodils in shape 
 of flowers (fig. 29). 
 
 The common double varieties include 
 several forms : double rosebud type, with 
 flowers having rosebud centers; double 
 camellia or camelliae florae type (fig. 
 30) , usually considered the most popular 
 of the double tuberous begonias (in re- 
 cent years the size of its flowers has been 
 increased greatly, and one strain has 
 petals with ruffled margins (cover) ; car- 
 nation or fimbriata type with deeply ser- 
 rated petals, giving a frilled effect. This 
 type may be considered a double form of 
 the crispa type (fig. 31). 
 
 In the dwarf multiflora class, the multi- 
 flora nana group of hybrid tuberous be- 
 gonias has recently received renewed 
 interest, but should not be confused with 
 the fibrous Begonia multiflora species, 
 which has much smaller flowers. The 
 plants have a dwarfed, bushy habit of 
 
 [37] 
 
tig. 2y. — lop: The narcissiflora type of tuberous begonia. Fig. 30. — Center: Camellia-flowered 
 type of tuberous begonia, full to the center. Fig. 31. — Bottom: Fimbriata plena, or carnation type, 
 double-flowered tuberous begonia. 
 
 [ 38 ] 
 
Fig. 32 — Socotrana hybrid, or winter- 
 flowering tuberous begonia, is listed oc- 
 casionally by dealers, but will probabK 
 not be popular because plants are nol 
 easily produced from seeds, so must be 
 grown from cuttings. 
 
 Fig. 33. — Begonia acida, a rhizomatous species with a spreading habit of growth. 
 
 growth. All summer they are covered with 
 small flowers, either double or single, of 
 good colors, and ranging in size from 1% 
 to 3 inches in diameter. They are suitable 
 for border and bedding purposes and 
 make good potted plants. Since seed from 
 the plants does not come true to type or 
 color, the only dependable methods of 
 propagation which will keep the plants 
 true to the parent are cuttings or division. 
 The winter-flowering Begonia socotrana 
 hybrids (fig. 32) are produced by cross- 
 
 ing B. socotrana with the large tuberous 
 begonias. They are receiving some inter- 
 est, primarily for their winter flowers. 
 Further work in breeding may improve 
 the size of the flowers and produce other 
 desirable characteristics. The tubers are 
 not likely to be so cheap as other tuberous 
 begonia varieties, since plants cannot be 
 produced easily from seed and must be 
 grown from cuttings which form tubers 
 during the second year. 
 
 Table 7 shows some tuberous species. 
 
 39 
 

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 Resembles Pahnata 
 more than B.diadema, 
 except for leaves 
 
 § 
 
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 Deeply cut, incised ; held 
 erect like an umbrella; 
 each leaf section narrow; 
 at center small ruffle of 
 auxiliary leaves 
 
 T3 
 
 1 
 
 Papery stipules base of 
 leaves clasp stem ; leaves 
 white scurfy, like peltata, 
 but not peltate in shape 
 
 
 
 
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 Rare or Odd. Table 8 lists certain odd 
 leaf or stem forms of begonias. Some of 
 these are also rare. Although varieties 
 with scurfy leaves, papery stipules, very 
 deeply cut palmate or star-shaped leaves 
 could also be included here, they appear 
 in the preceding tables. Not all of the va- 
 rieties listed are available at some retail 
 nurseries, but the names are given as a 
 source of reference for interested fanciers. 
 
 References 
 
 Brown, Worth 
 
 1948. Tuberous begonias. (128 p.) M. Barrows 
 & Company, Inc., 114 E. 32d Street, New 
 York 16. 
 
 Buxton, B, R. 
 
 1946. Begonias and how to grow them. (163 
 p.) Oxford University Press, 114 Fifth 
 Avenue, New York 11, N.Y. 
 
 Krauss, H. K. 
 
 1947. Begonias for American homes and gar- 
 dens. (228 p.) The Macmillan Com- 
 pany, New York, N.Y. 
 
 Langdon, Allan G. 
 
 1949. Tuberous begonias. Mendip Press, Ltd. 
 
 (Bath, England.) 
 
 Otten, G. 
 
 1935. Tuberous-rooted begonias and their cul- 
 ture. (84 p.) A. T. De La Mare Com- 
 pany, Inc., New York, N.Y. 
 
 41 
 
In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible, it is sometimes necessary 
 to use trade names of products and equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical 
 identifications. In so doing, it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products vs^hich are on the 
 market under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended 
 nor is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. 
 
 Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, 
 
 University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. 
 
 Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. 
 
 J. Earl Coke, Director, California Agricultural Extension Sers'ice. 
 
 25m-l,'50(B5324) , 
 
 k 
 
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