stack Annex DC 608.3 B56r 1896 THE C.B. BLACK ^'*hour^ '^. SKETCH :ALVP OF THE RIVIERA AND CORSICA Z2^ THE RIVIEEA GUIDE-BOOKS TO FRANCE, ITALY, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, SPAIN, PORTUGAL AND THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. Copiously Illustrated with Maps and Plans. NORTH-FRANCE— From tlie North Sea to the Loire, exclusive of Paris, and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 19 Maps and 21 Plans . . 7/6 SOUTH-FRANCE— From the Loire to the Mediterranean, and from the Bay of Biscay to the rivers Arno and Po. The island of Corsica. 40 Maps and 27 Plans 7/6 Published also in separate Parts. North-France, WEST-HALF, or Norman-dy, Brittany and Touraine. 14 Maps and 16 Plans. Eleventh Edition 5/ NORMANDY and PICARDY : their Castles, Relics, Churches, and Footprints of William the Conqueror. 6 Maps and S Plans. Fourth Edition . 2/6 North-France, EAST-HALF, or Picardy, Champagne, Lorraine, Alsace and part of Burgundy. 5 Plans and 5 Maps. Third Edition .... 2/6 South-France, WEST-HALF. The SuiiMER Resorts in the Pyrenees ; Luchon, BiGORRE, BarilGES, etc. ; the Winter Resorts of Pad, Arcachon, Biarritz, St. Jean-de-Luz, Yernet, Amelie-les-Bains and Malaga, and the Claret- WiN-E YuN-EYARDS in Medoc. IS Maps and 9 Plans. Sixth Edition . 2/6 South-France, EAST-HALF, or the Yalleys of the Waldenses, of the Rhone, the DURAXCE and the Upper Loire ; the Baths of Yichy, Aix-les-Bains, RoYAT, Yals, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, Bourbon- Lancy, Acqui, Locca, Yaldieri, etc. ; the Yolcanic Region of Ardi^che ; the Mountain-Passes between France and Italy ; and the Riviera of the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn. 20 Plans and 21 Maps. Fifth Edition in pre- paration 5/ THE RIYIERA, or the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn, including the inland towns of Pisa, Lucca, Carrara, and Florence, and Excursions into the Maritime Alps. 9 Plans and 15 Maps. Ninth Edition . 2/6 THE SAME bound up with FLORENCE 3/6 FLORENCE and Environs. 4 Plans and 1 Map. Second Edition . . . 1/ ,, ,, ,, Bound in cloth. 4 Plans, Maps and 13 Portraits 2/6 CORSICA, its Rail, Carriage, and Forest Roads. 6 Maps. Fourth Edition . 1/6 BELGIUM, its Churches, Chimes and Battlefields. 13 Plans and 8 Maps 2/6 HOLLAND, its Picture Galleries and Waterways. 4 Maps and 13 Plans . 2/6 HANDBOOK of the Islands of Jersey, Guernsey and Alderney, Western N0RMANT5Y and Mt. St. Michel. 10 Maps and 5 Plans. Seventh Edition 1/ ,, ,, ,, Bound in cloth, with more Maps and Plans . 2/6 ROME, The Remains of Ancient. By Prof. J. H. Middleton. In 2 vols, post 8vo. Yt'ith 102 Illustrations and 4 Coloured Maps 25/ SPAIN and PORTUGAL, (O'Shea.) Tenth Edition. Edited by John Lomas. Cro\vn 8vo. Maps and Plans 15/ " C. B. Black's Guide-hooks have a character of their own; and that character is a good one. Their autlior has made himself personally acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in xvhich only a tiian of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up' the places as a mere hack guide-hook writer is often, hy the necessity of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is ahle to correct common mistctkes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest o^i? to he overlooked by the hurried o&sci-i-er."— Scotsman. THE EI VIEEA OR THE COAST FROM MARSEILLES TO LEGHORN INCLUDING THE INTERIOR TOWNS OF CARRARA3 LUCCA, PISA AND PISTOIA Wiit}) JFifttrn fHaps an!i 0me ^lans NINTH EDITION C. B. BLACK LO:t^DOX: ADAM & CHAELES BLACK CANNES : LIBRAIRIE F. ROBAUDY NICE : LIBRAIRIE GALIGNANI MENTON : LIBRAIRIE CENTRALE SAN REMO : LIBRAIRIE GANDOLFO FLORENCE : B. SEEBER, 20 VIA TORNABUONI 1896 STACK ANNEX i)C 60?- 3 I89C HOW TO REACH THE RIVIERA AND WHAT TIME-TABLES TO USE Take rail from Paris to Marseilles by the "Chemins de Fer de Paris- Lyou-Mediterranue," starting from their station No. 20 Boulevard Diderot. Marseilles is o36J miles south from Paris. Fare, 1st class, 106 frs. 30 cents ; 2nd class, 79 frs. 75 cents ; 3rd class, 58 frs. 45 cents. The "Express," starting in the forenoon, does the journey in 18 hours. The "Rapide," starting in the evening, does the journey in 15 hours 23 minutes. The trains pass by Laroche, Dijon, Macon, Lyon, Valence, Avignon, Tarascon and Rognac. The longest halt the " Rapide " makes is 10 minutes at Lyon. At all the other places it stops only 5 minutes. The longest halts the "Express" makes are: 36 minutes at Dijon, and 22 minutes at Lyon. At all the other places it halts only 5 minutes. The same Company have another road to Marseilles by Melun, Montargis, Nevers, Moulins, St. Germain -des- Fosses, Clermont, Alais, Nimes and Tarascon. Distance, 529| miles. Time, partly by "Express," 25 hours 5 minutes. Fare, 1st class, 104 frs. 85 cents : 2nd class, 78 frs. 60 cents ; 3rd class, 57 frs. 60 cents. By this way carriages require to be changed at Nimes or Tarascon. Consult map on the end fly-leaf ; but for the Riviera and Corsica use the map on the first fly-leaf at the beginning. Tivie-tahles. — For reliable and exact information regarding the trains to Marseilles and on the French Riviera, see the official time-tables, the "Indicateur Chaix des Chemins de Fer de Paris-Lyon-Mediterran^e," 8 sous, sold at all their stations and at the newspaper shops of Paris. With this little book it is unnecessary to seek information elsewhere. On the Italian Riviera use a similar book, the "Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate," large edition 1 fr., small edition 50™^^- The Italian railway time is 55 minutes in advance of Paris time. The Sleeping Car Company of London provide a special train from London to the Riviera during the season (November to May). This train is the quickest and most comfortable. Messrs. Cook and Messrs. Gaze supply through tickets and hotel coupons. The price of seats in the Italian express trains is higher than in the ordinary trains. No luggage goes free by the Italian railways. At the end of this book are the time-tables between London and the Riviera, but for more detailed information see tlie Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway, sent free by post in answer to letters addressed to William Forbes, Continental Manager, Victoria Station, London. Also the time-tables of the South-Eastern Railway. OUTLINE OF CONTENTS (For Details see Index) PAGE The Riviera. Climate, vegetation, price of lodgings and provisions, usual winter vegetables, treatment, sea-bathing, doctors' fees . 1 Marseilles. Cabs, hotels, steamers, sights, trams, excursions 4 The Escape of Monte Christo. See end of book, also page 12 Marseilles to Menton (map, p. 1 ) . .15 Marseilles to Cannes by Toulon, Hyeres, Frejus, Saint Raphael and Agay (map, p. 17) . . . . .15 Between Marseilles and Toulon the railway passes several pretty little towns of which the most important are Aubagne, p. 15, and La Sepie, p. 17. Toulon. Diligences run, and small steamers sail from it to the principal towns and ports on map, p. 21 . . .17 Most of the Toulon diligences start from tlie Place d'Armand- Valle, formerly called the Place d'ltalie, near the gate at the Hyeres end of the town. Toulon to Dardenne from the "Place" to the W. of the Place Puget, p. 21 ; to Hyeres from the Place Puget, p. 17 ; to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d'Armand- Valle, p. 22 ; and to Le Pradet from the same Place, p. 22. Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country, p. 22 ; to CoHobrieres by La Crau and Pierrefeu, p. 23. Steamer to La SejTie, and to St. Mandrier, p. 20 ; to the lies d'Hyeres or d'Or, p. 24. Contents. The lies d'Or. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Tie du Levant . Toulon to Hyeres ..... Hyeres. Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, pi-oduc tions, climate ...... Hyeres by rail to Les Salins, La Plage, and the peninsula of Giens, 33 ; to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana Hyeres by rail to St. Tropez by La Londe, Bormes and La Foux, -svith continuation to Frejus and St. Raphael . St. Tropez. La Pauline. Rail or steamer to St. Raphael (maps, pp. 17, 41) Diligence and train to Hyeres (map, p. 21) . Camoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin w'ith an interesting church (map, p. 17) Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure monn tains (map, p. 17) Les Arcs to Draguignan by branch line, 8 miles north. At Draguignan station commences the line of the " Chemins de Fer du Sud " to MejTargues 53 miles west, and to Grasse 40 miles east (map, p. 17), vni\\ continuation to Nice (map, p. 63) Draguignan to Grasse and Nice (maps, pp. 17 and 63) . Saint Raphael. Rail to Hyeres (map, p. 17) Agay to La Sainte Baume (map, p. 41) . Cannes ....... Cannes to Auribeau, p. 53 ; to Cauuet, p. 50 ; to Cap d'Antibes, pp. 51, 65 : to Castelaras, p. 53; to Croisette, p. 51; to Croix des Gardes, p. 52 ; to Esterel, p. 52 ; to Grasse, p. 57 ; to the lies de Lerins, p. 53 ; Licourdoules hills, p. 50 ; to Mougins, p. S3 ; to Napoule and Theoule, p. 52 ; to Pegomas, p. 53 ; to St. Cassien, p. 52 ; to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie, p. 49 (see map, p. 51). lies de Lerins and Man of the Iron Mask .... Grasse and manufacture of perfumery .... PAGE 24 26 26 35 35 37 37 38 39, 40 41 42 42 43 53 57 Grasse to St. Cesaire Ijy coach by a beautiful road. From St. Cesaire visit the cave, the Grotte de la Foux (map, p. 63) . 59 vi Contents. PAGE Grasse to Nice by rail, generally parallel with the beautiful road to Nice (map, p. 63) . . . . . .59 Grasse to St. Vallier and Digne by coach, across the Alpes Maritime^ ....... 62 Nice with Cimiez ....... 66 Digne to Nice 95 miles S.E. chiefly by rail (map, p. '6'd) . 77 Digne is a very pleasant town and from it all the iiiighbom-ing towns and villages can be easily visited, either by rail or by the numerous coaches which start from Digne. Nice to St. Martin-Lantosque (Vesubie) and thence to Entraque, Valdieri, Roccavioue, Dalmazzo, Cuneo and Turin . . 79 Nice to Turin by Trinite-Victor, Drap, Sospello, Giandola, Saorgio. Fontana, Tenda and Limone, where passengers may take the rail and proceed by Cuneo to Turin . . . . .81 Savona and S. Giuseppe to the Baths of Acqui (map, p. 161 ) . 83 Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse — a pleasant walk 8-i Monaco, on the summit of a rock . . . .86 Monaco to La Turbie and the Tete de Chien . . . 86, 93 Monte Carlo (map p. 85), on the top of a promontory . . 90 Menton to Genoa — the western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente (map, p. 103) . . .103 Bordighera, up the valley of the Nervia, to Pigna (map, p. 105) . 105 ., to Ospedaletti, La Colla, and San Remo . .106 San Remo,, plan of town, page . . . . .109 to Monte Bignone, an interesting excursion . . 110 to Taggia ...... 112 Savona and Genoa to Turin by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90| ra. north (map, p. 103) . . . 116, 134 Savona to the Santuario and Turin . .116 Varazze to Arenzano by Cogoleto .... 116 Contents. PAGE Genoa, a busy to^\^l of steep and narrow streets . . .118 ., to Turin by Xovi, Alessandria and Asti (map, p. 103) . 134 Grenoa to Spezia, Viareggio, Pisa and Leghorn, or the Italian Riviera di Levante (map, p. 103) .... 185 Spezia to CaiTara, Viareggio, Pisa and Lucca . . .139 ,, to Avenza and the marble quarries of Carrara (map, p. 139) .141 Pisa (maps, pp. 139 and Idl). Tower, Cathedral and Baptistery 147 .. to Calci and Pontedera (map, p. 161) . . . . 156 „ to Leghorn — a town with well-paved streets . . . 157 „ to Florence by Lucca and Pistoia .... 159 ,, to Florence by Pontedera and Empoli . . . 171 Florence to Vallombrosa partly by tram . . . .172 " Courrier " stands for the mail — either a bus, a gig, or a spring cart, under the control of the post office. CARTE DU JOUR The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the " Cartes du Jour " of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated. SOITPS. Consomme, beef-tea. Bouillon, broth. Poto.ge, soup. Julienne, vegetable soups. Puree, pease-soup. Furie, when qualifying a noun, means "mashed," as — Puree de pommel, mashed potatoes. ,, viarron, mashed chestnut.s. BEEF. Boeuf au naturd, or simply "nature," plain boiled beef. Naturel in cookery means "plain." Bonif a la ynode, beef stewed with carrots. Nearly the same as tlie Tiext. Bceufd la jardiniere, beef with vegetables. Aloyau, a sirloin of beef. Aloyau a la jardiniere , sirloin with vege- tables. Aloyau saute, sirloin in slices. Sa%ite in cookery means " sliced." Rosbif aux pommes, roast beef with pota- toes. In these lists the words de terre are rarely affixed to pommes. Bifteck au naturel, plain beefsteak. ,, a-ux poDimes, with potatoes. ,, aux pommes saiitces, with sliced potatoes. ,, aux haricots, with kidney beans. , , Men cuit, well done. ,, saignant, under done. Palais de Bauf au gratin, broiled ox palate. Alt gratin in cookery means " baked " or " broiled " ; when applied to potatoes it means " browned." MUTTON. Cotelettes de inonton au naturel, plain nnitton chops. VUl Carte du Jour. Cdtelettes de iniouton panees, mutton chops fried with crumbs. ,, ,, ,, aux pointes d'as- perge, muttou chops with asparagus tops. „ ,, ,, a la puree de pommeSf mutton chops with mashed potatoes. Gigot roti, a roast leg of mutton. Pieds de mouton, sheep's trotters. Gigot d'agneau, a leg of lamb. Blanquette d'agneau, hashed stewed lamb. Rognons a la brochctte, broiled kidneys. ,, sautes, sliced kidneys. Etuve, stewed. VEAL. Cotelette de veau, veal cutlet. Tete de veau en, vinaigrette, calf s head with oil and vinegar. Oreille de veau en marinade, pickled calf s ear. Rid de vexi.u, sweetbread. Foie de veau, calf s liver. Blanquette de veau, hashed stewed veal. Fricandeau au jus, Scotch collops with gravy. Jxis, gravy. VEGETABLES. Pomtnes de terre, potatoes. Legumes et fruits primeurs, early vege- tables and fruits. Asperges a la soAice, asparagus with sauce. Chou, cabbage. Chavipignons, mushrooms. Epinards, spinach. Feves de marais, garden beans. Haricots verts, green kidney beans. Oseille, sorreL Petits pois, green peas. Jardiniere means "dressed with vege- tables." POULTKT AND GAME. Poularde, a fowl. Poulet, chicken. Chapon, capon. Guisse de poulet, leg of a chicken. Des ceufs a la coque, boiled eggs. Dindonneau, young turkey. Canard, duck. Perd/reau, partridge. Mauviettes, field-larks. AMiettes, larks. Grives, thrashes. Becasse, woodcock. Becassine, snipe. Chevreuil, venison. Caille, quail. PISH. Anguille, eel. Eperlans, smelts ; or, as the Scotch call them, Sperlings. Homard, lobster. Huitres, oysters. Merkms, whitings. Morue, cod. Raie, skate. Saumon, salmon. Sole, sole. Turbot, turbot. Frit, fried. Grille, done on the gridiron. DESSERT. Compote, applied to fruits, means "stewed." ,, rfe j)OTOmes, stewed apples. ,, depruneaux, stewed prunes. Beigjiets de pommes, apple fritters. ,, „ ,, souffl.es, puffed apple fritters. Mendiants, raisins, nuts and almonds. DRINK. Vin de Bordeaux, claret. A bottle of soda-water is called a siphon. The cheap wines ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water. At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a little extra. Frappe, apijlied to liquids, means " iced.'' Carafe f rappee , iced water. Vin frappe, iced wine. The litre of beer is called a canette, and the half-litre a choppe. The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a carafon, a word often used in the cheap restaurants. In France, when "un cafe" without cognac is wanted, ask for a "mazagran." In Florence coffee is served without coguaC, unless it be requested. The Potion Cordiale des Hopitaux, sold by the French chemists, is a valuable restorative. It is composed of Banyuls wine 125 grammes, syrup of the rind of bitter oranges 25 grammes, and tincture of cinnamon 10 gr. Good old sherry, port, or Malaga will do as well as Banyuls wine. Eau de Goudron mixed with vin ordinaire is a safe and excellent drink for quenching thirst. It is on the table of many of the hotels. IX EIVIEEA MAPS AND PLANS Cannes, plan of. From the Hotel Mont Fleuris to the Pension de la Tour at the west end . . . .43 „ From the Hotel Mont Flenris to the Hotel Metropole at the east end ...... 49 „ Environs of. Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes ...... 51 Caxrara — plan of the railway to the marble quarries . .143 Carrara is a busy little town with a comfortable inn. The omnibus awaits passengers. Corniche Road ....... 85 Showing the course of the Upper Corniche Road from Isice to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice and Monte Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway. This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco and Menton, The Corniche road is now nearly deserted. Such roads, and quite as beautiful, extend along the whole coast. Esterel Mountains. The picturesque region between Cannes and Frejus and St. Raphael. Besides the coast road, another goes through the centre, passing by the culminating point Mont Vinaigre . .41 The best ran)bles in the neighbourhood of Cannes aie in the region of the Esterel mountains. The Amo and Environs of Florence from Lucca to Vallombrosa. 161 The upper valley of the Arno is called the Caseutino. The lower valley was, in the time of the Romans, a great swamp. In summer a steamer sails between Pisa and the mouth of the Arno. X Maps and Plans. i'AGE Genoa, plau of. The town is situated on the steep side of a liill . 121 Hy^res, plan of. The old town is on the side of the hill crowned with the castle. The new town, with the hotels and the railway station to St. Raphael are on the plain below . . .27 Hyeres and Toulon, environs of. This map will be found useful in the beautiful little excursions by steamer from Toulon and for the ascents of Mounts Faron and Condon. The gi-eater part of the plain is traversed by buses and diligences . . 21 Italian Riviera, or the Kiviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn . 103 Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the " Rhone and Savoy," and parts on a larger scale on the maps of the " Corniche Road," " Mar- seilles to Cannes," and the " Durance to the Var and San Reiuo." Leghorn, plan of. A well-paved town. Large steamers leave it for Corsica and Sardinia ...... 157 Lucca, plan of. A quiet town in a beautiful neighbourhood . 159 Marseilles, small general plan ..... 5 , , The important part of the town on a large scale . 9 Marseilles to Cannes. Showing the position of the towns, roads, and railways on the coast, and of those in the interior between these two towns ; also the course of the Marseilles canal, which from Pertuis on the Durance brings 200 cubic ft. of water per second to Marseilles, and discharges itself into the sea at Cape Croisette . . . . . . .17 Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo, environs of these places . 105 Nice, plan of. Including Cimiez ..... 73 Pisa. The object of this plan is to indicate the road from the railway station to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral,, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo. If there be little time the Campo Santo or Cemetery should be omitted . . .147 Railway map of France on back board. Riviera with Corsica, showing the whole coast of the Riviera on front board. xi Maps and Plans. PAGE Rhdne and Savoy. The course of the Rhoue, with the railways on both sides of the river from Lyon to the mouth. All the passes between France and Italy and the whole of the French Riviera ........ 1 Roulette Table . . . .91 San Remo, plan of . . . . .109 Savona and Genoa to Sestri-Levante, including the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa Maria-Ligure, Porto-Fino and Rapallo . . . .115 Spezia to Lucca and Pisa, showing the whole of the Carrara marble region, the pretty Gulf of Spezia with the %-illages of San Terenzo, Lerici and Porto Venere, and the scene of the foundering of Shelley's yacht with the loss of all on board . 139 The Durance, the Var and the Roya, with the part of the Maritime Alps between them, including the road from Yentimiglia to Cuueo by the Col di Tenda, Limone, Robillante, Roccavione, and Borgo San Dalmazzo ; the road from Menton to the Col di Tenda by Sospello ; the road from Nice to St. Martin-Lantosque or Vesubie ; and the roads from St. Martin-Lantosque to the Baths of Valdieri and to San Dalmazzo. The road from Grasse to Digne by St. Vallier, Escragnolles, Castellane, Senez and Barreme. From Grasse to Nice by Le Bar and Vence. From Digne rail and diligences start to every town of importance on this, the east side of the Durance . . 63 Thermometer with the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale . 1 xu Freliminary Information. Raihoay Time- Tables. Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only official time-tables are those published by Chaix and C^*- and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are various kinds. The most complete and most exjiensive is the " Li vret- Chaix Con- tinental," which, besides the time-tables of the French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished Avith a complete index ; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The " Li vret -Chaix Continental" is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2 frs. Next iu importance is the " Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," sold at every station ; size 123 small folio pages, price 75 c. It contains the time- tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway map. The great French lines of the "Chemins de Fer de I'Ouest," of the " Gliemins de Fer d'Orleans," of the " Chemins de Fer de Paris a Lyon et a la Mediterranee," of the "Chemins de Fer du Nord," and of the " Chemins de Fer de I'Est," have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their stations. Price 40 c. Size IS*"^- With good index. The maps which accompany all the editions of Chaix's time-tables have on every railway line the number of the page where each is to be found, which greatly facilitates consultation. For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the " Guide Officiel sur tons les Chemins de Fer de Belgique." Sold at the Belgian railway stations. Size 18™®- Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium. For Italy, use " L'ludicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d'ltalia." Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price ^ fr. In Spain use the "Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles," sold at the stations. The distances are. as in the French tables, in kilometres, of which 8 make 5 miles. Lleg. or Llegada means " arrival " ; Scdida " departure." In England consult the "Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Piailway," sent free by post in answer to letters addressed to W. Forbes, Continental ^Manager, Victoria Station, London. In the Railway Station. Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index of the " Livret-Chaix Continental " the place required, to ascertain the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on its Avay. On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also "bulletins." After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along witli a luggage receipt, is handed you from the " guichet " of the luggage office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2 sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column headed " Nombre de Colis," and see that the exact number of your articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures 3, 5, xiii Railivays. aud 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office ; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be over- weight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party on the "Billet de Bagage" is that, in case of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster (chef-de- Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (etre vise). The traveller, on arriving at his destination, ^vill frequently find it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him ; in which case, having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the porter that he wishes it left "en depot." He retains, however, his luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again. On the Railway. In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway map, and note the junctions ; for at many of these — such as Amiens. Rouen, Culoz, ^Maeon, etc. etc. — the passengers are frequently discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room, otherwise the ^vrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction required to go ; so that when, for example, he calls out, " Voyageurs du Cote de Lyon ! " and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with con- fidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference. Buffet means " refreshment - room " ; and SaUe d'Attente, "waiting- room." There are separate carriages for ladies. Some of the express trains have third-class carriages for long distances. When on the way to a place at night, note the time when the train should an'ive at the last place but one, to have time to prepare for leaving the carriage. In most cases it is impossible to understand the names of places called out by the porters at the stations, especially in the night. Railway Omnibuses. At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the to'wn for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc ; so that, should the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his destina- tion. Tlie hotel omnilnis takes passengers only to the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears. Tliey charge each from ^ fr. to 1^ fr. For tlie routes leading to the Riviera, see Black's South France, East-Half. t THE EHONE & SAVOY « THE RIVIERA. HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE. The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast of the Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their ofF-shoots. It is usually divided into two portions — the Riviera from Hyeres to Genoa, 203 miles long ; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles long. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former — the Western Riviera — which has been sub- jected to most careful and minute meteorological observations, and the various stations classified according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203 miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from each other than the stations them- selves. Yet each station has certain peculiarities, accidental and social, which suit some people more than others — such as the people met with, the lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things which exercise a more power- ful influence upon the health and well-being of the mind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. The protecting mountains of none of the stations are suffi- ciently high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the higher mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deep indentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams, descend to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, and delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them — the 1 2 Climate. Vegetation. more sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is the danger. None of the stations escape from the much maligned mistral, a north-west ^^'ind rather troublesome in the coldest days of winter, but invigorating and refreshing when the weather becomes warm. The mean winter temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyeres, considered the coolest of the winter stations, is 50° -3 Fahr., and of San Remo, considered the mildest, 51° Fahr. The coldest months are December and January. "With February the temperature commences to rise progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception. " In December wild flowers are rare till after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January have become abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are springing up in the olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. In March the hill-sides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the Mediterranean heath, to which April adds cistuses, helian- themums, convolvuli, serapiases, and gladioli." But I regret to say that there is a much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree {Schinus Molle), the camphor tree {Ligustrum ovalifolium), the locust tree {Ceratonia Siliqua), the tree veronica, the magnolia, and different species of the eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true acacia. In marshy places the common bamboo {Arundo Donax) attains a great height ; while the Scdum dasyphyllum, the aloe, and the opuntium or prickly-pear, clothe the dry rocky banks with verdure. The most important tree com- mercially is the olive, which occupies the lower part of the mountains and immense tracts in the valleys. The higher elevations are divided among the cork tree {Quercus Suber), the maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the chestnut tree. The Japanese medlar {Erio- hotryaja'poiiica) is common in the orchards, flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. "With the exception of the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees ripen their fruit too late for the winter resident. On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyeres, St. Raphael, Grasse, and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for from 8s. to 10s. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a substantial meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin ordinaire) to both. Most of the hotels make arrangements with Price of Lodgings and Food. 3 families. The cheapest rooms are those with a north exposure, which all but delicate people will find sufficiently comfortable. In some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day is as low as 6s. If two are together, especially two ladies or a gentleman and his wife, an excellent plan is to take a furnished room, which with a south exposure and good furniture ought to cost about £2 per month. They can easily prepare their own breakfast, and they can get their dinner sent to them. If the party be numerous, apart- ments should be taken, which vary from £2 to £30 per month. For the season, from October to May, furnished apartments are let at prices varying from £18 to £100. As a general rule it is best to alight at some hotel, and, while on the spot, to select either the pension or apartments, as no description can give an adequate idea of the state of the drains nor of the people of the house. A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, a cook about one-half more, but they are not easily managed. Fluids are sold by the litre, equal to nearly a quart of four (not six) to the gallon. Solids are sold by the kilogi-amme, or, as it is generally called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. Z\ oz. Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton cost from Is. lOd. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs when at their dearest cost l^d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the litre. The best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kDo. Of French cheese there are a great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the Roquefort and the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the coast are : the Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or Bass, the Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard (Grondin), the John Dory (Doree Com- mune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the Conger are very fair. The sole, turbot, tunny and mackerel are inferior to those caught in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good vegetables can be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinach, sorrel, and artichokes. The cardon {Cynara Car- dunculus) and salsifis {Tragopogon porrifolius) are often served up in the hotels. The potatoes are of good quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the principal stations are English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, bakers, and grocers. Before commencing to treat in detail the diS'erent stations of the Riviera, ' ' some of the general advantages of the invalid's life in this region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine which he enjoys for weeks together, when the sun often rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a brightness and warmth 4 Marseilles. Health Prospects. surpassing that of the British summer, and then sinks without a cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, displaying in his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints which characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light, a southern sunset. In the early stages of phthisis, and especially when the patient is young and active -minded, struck down by overwork or sudden ex- posure, this cheering influence is most beneficial. It is of great im- portance that, while taking the needful care of himself, he should not degenerate at an early age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as an every-day increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that under the influence of medicine and climate a large number of these patients gi'adually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with due care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never neglect to consult a doctor on their arrival, as his experience and advice with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and may often prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in un- healthy localities." To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, that patients should bring with them a letter from their physician describing their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted. See also under Menton, p. 102. The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then there is less wind and dust. For invalids requiring quiet rural walks the most suitable stations are Hyeres and Bordighera. Sea-hathing on the Riviera may be continued with advantage during the greater part of the winter season. As the rise and fall of the tide are so trifling the beach is always in a fit state for the bather. The water of the Mediterranean is more highly mineralised than that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per cent of common salt. Doctors' Fees. — The general charge is, twenty francs for the first visit, and ten for the others. Night work and difiicult cases are charged higher. MARSEILLES, pop. 405,000, 15 hrs. 25 miu. from Paris, and 6 hrs. 37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice 5 hrs. 27 min. 536^ m. S. from Paris, 190 J m. S. from Lyons, 120| m. W. from Cannes, and 140 m. "\V. from Nice. On the departure side of the railway station is the Terminus Hotel. Rooms 4 frs. to 9 frs. with one bed ; 6 frs. to 12 frs. with two beds. The hotel omnibuses await passengers. Call out loudly the name of the hotel desired, to which the driver of its omnibus will respond. A plentiful supply of Cabs is both at the railway and the custom- house station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is furnished 9 Old MuseitTn iO£ou/-jfe n Bibtiothrtfie et Eivlr iles linai^ Jrts SctiUitfOwHOe £ artKolamen^. Ein^ Cahs. Hotels. ^Steamers. 5 with an official taritf, which, though constantly changing, may be stated to be — Cabs at Cabstands ^ ^•^- ^^ midnight. Midnight to 6 a.m. Lab^ at Labstanas. The course. The hour. The course. The hour. One-horse cab seated for two. 1 fr. 2 frs. 1 fr. 10 sous. 2 frs. 10 sous. Two-horse cab seated for four. 1 fr. 5 sous. 2 frs. 2 frs. 3 frs. The Cahs at the railway stations charge a little more. See below. The course. The hour. The course. The hour. One-horse cab seated for two. 1 fr. 5 sous. 2 frs. 5 sous. 2 frs. 2 frs. 15 sous Two-horse cab seated for four. 1 fr. 15 sous. 2 frs. 15 sous. 2 frs. 3 frs. 10 sous. All the passengers excepting one pay 5 sous besides. Each trunk 5 sous. The hotel 'buses charge each passenger from ^ fr. to 2 frs. The general omnibus is the cheapest. Ca/es. — In the Rue Cannebiere are splendid and much frequented cafes. Price in all for a cup of cotfee without cognac (un mazagi-an) is 6 sous. The most of them take in some London penny paper. Hotels. — The best and most expensive hotels are in the upper con- tinuation of the Rue Cannebiere, the Rue Xoailles. The *H. du Louvre et de la Paix : the *H. Noailles : and the H. Marseilles, large and luxurious houses, near each other, and charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day. Opposite the H. Xoailles is the office of Messrs. Cook. Plainer Houses. — The H. Petit Louvre, 16 Rue Cannebiere, 10 to 18 frs. : the *H. Geneve, between the Port and the Boiu-se, 10 to 18 frs. In the Rue Vacon, the *H. des Colonies. In the Boulevard du Nord, on the way down from the station, the H. du Nord. In the Cours Belsunce and neighbourhood are respectable houses charging from 8 to 9 frs. per day, including Avine and service, but not tea or coffee in the morning. Such as : behind the E. side of the Cours, at 28 R. des Recolettes, the *H. des Phoceens. Next it, at No. 26, is the H. de I'Europe, a "maison meublee," where a good room costs 2 frs. Adjoining is a capital restaurant, the Restaurant des Gourmets. In the Coiu-s itself the best are No. 32, the H. des Negociants, and at No. 32 opposite, the H. des Deux Mondes. The continuation of the Cours Belsunce is the Cours St. Louis, where a flower market is held, and whence the omnibus starts for N. D. de la Garde. Here are the H. de Rome, fi-equented chiefly by priests, and the * Hotel and Restaurant St. Louis. The rooms of the St. Louis are comfortable and the restaurant commodious and well provided. G. Hotel de la Poste at the corner of the Rue Colbert : H. Beauveau, R. Beauveau facing the sea, Pension 8 frs. H. Europe, 26 Rue des Recolettes, 7 to 10 frs. The Hotel des Quatre Nations, 5 R. Beauveau, is frequented by commercial travellers. Travellers in the south of France should carry Avith them, especially in warm weather, a packet of insect powder. It can be had at all the druggists in France. Steamboats. — The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et Ci^' of Fraissinet et C^e- of the P. and 0. Navigation Co., etc., arrive 6 Marseilles. Boat Station. Churches. and depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The Custom-house is at the north end of the dock, and just outside the dock-gate are portera and a large cab-stand. The Custom-house contains one waiting-room for the first and second class, and another for the third. Passengers before they can have their baggage examined have to pay 6 sous at the end of the baggage-room for each box, for which they receive an ac- knowledgment. A tramway runs from No. 1 Quai Joliette to Long- champ, entering the Port and the Rue Cannebiere by the R. de la Republique. There are no hotels near the steamboat station. Small boats' station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the Chateau d'lf, 8 frs. from 3 to 3^ hrs. On feast-days small steamers make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same place, but do not land the passengers, fare \ fr. , time 1 hr. At this part of the quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of oranges and other fruits. From the Hotel de Yille (1 in plan) in the Port, the Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles opposite, 1 sou. At the mouth of the Port, from between La Consigne and the Fort St. Jean, other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin Carenage, by the side of Fort St. Nicolas, and just below the interesting old church of St. Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up to Notre Dame. The General Post and Telegi-aphic Office is in the Rue Colbert off the Rue Republique, on the north side of the Port. Post Offices also at the Bourse and the Place Chapitre, south from railway station. The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2. Another is in the R. Grignan, No. 15. The Anglican chapel is at No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and parallel to it. The Public Library is in the Boulevard du Musee, in the Ecole des Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday. Best money-changers, Credit Lyonnais, Rue Noailles. The Opera is near the Port ; the other theatres are around the Rue Noailles. At the head of the Port, in the Rue Fraternite, are the dealers in shellfish. Sights. — Palais ds Longchamp, an artistic edifice, containing the Picture Gallery and the Natural History Museum ; free. Closed on Mondays and every day between 12 and 2 (see p. 7). Near the Palais are the Zoological Gardens. Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 11) by omnibus from the Cours du Chapitre, south from the railway station and lift, so far up the hill from the Rue Cherchell, p. 10. The shops and cafes in the Rues Cannebiere and Noailles. A drive along the Corniche road by tram, starting from the Place St. Louis, at the north end of the R. Rome to Bonneveine, at the south end of the general plan, p. 5. When returning select at the Bonneveine terminus the tram with the word "Corniche " among its other names. Bouillabaisse. Palais de Longchamp. 7 Fare both ways, 40 c. or 8 sous. Just behind the Bonneveine terminus is the Chateau Borely, containing the Musee d'Archeologie, including a collection of Phoenician relics found in the neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the Phoenician origin of Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the ground-floor are Roman mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, mummies ; and in the end room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, regulating the tariff' of the prices to be paid to the priests for sacrifices in the temple of Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique glass, necklaces, faience from Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 ft. in diameter. The Place St. Louis tram follows the Corniche road from the com- mencement, fare | fr. The gardens and country houses (Bastides) in the whole of this neighbourhood are due to the irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing establishments on this road, the best is the Roucas Blanc ; and of the restaurants the best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, charging 15 frs. per day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, 5 frs. additional. The house is situated on an eminence rising from the Corniche road, at the entrance into the Yallon d'Oriol, commands a splendid sea view, has handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its fish -dinners and Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly passing it. This establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants along the Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which is kept a supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse, a kind of fish soup, which, like most national dishes — plum - pudding, puchero, haggis, etc. — admits of considerable latitude in the preparation. The essentials are — whole rascasses and chapons (scorpion fishes), and rock lobsters, stewed in a liquor mixed mth a little of the best olive oil, and flavoured with tender savoury herbs. An extra good Bouillabaisse should include also crayfish, a few mussels, and some pieces of any first-class fish, such as the bass. Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking a short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebiere and Noailles, enter the Joliettc tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2 sous. The Palais de Longchamp, which cost £165,000, con- sists of two rectangular wings, united by a semicircular colonnade of Ionic volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a richly-sculptured massive archway, an inscription records that the great undertaking of bringing the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun on the 15th November 1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in the reign of Louis Philippe I. Another records that the palace was com- 8 Marseilles. Zoological Gardens. Port. menced in the reign of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and finished on the 16th August 1869. From a group of colossal bulls under the colonnade gushes a copious stream of water, which in its descent makes a cascade of 90 ft. in three stages. The \nng to the right, standing with the face to the palace, contains the Natural History Museum ; and the other, the picture and sculpture galleries. The best paintings are labelled. On the first floor are some large pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are : — F. Bol, d. 1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland ; Bourdon, d. 1671, portrait of P. de Champaigne ; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah inebriated ; Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit ; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit ; Gongo, d. 1764, Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter ; Greuze, d. 1805, portrait ; Holbein, d. 1554, portrait ; Loo, d. 1745, portrait of Lady ; Maratta, d. 1713, Cardinal Cibo ; Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos ; Nattier, d. 1766, ^Ime. de Pompadour as Aurora ; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene ; Pellegrino, d. 1525, Holy Family ; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family ; F. Porbus, d. 1584, portrait ; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John ; Rembrandt, d. 1669, A Prophetess (sibyl) ; Reni, d. 1642, The Protectors of Milan ; Ribera, d. 1656, Juau de Porcida ; Rigaud, d. 1745, Due de Villars ; Rubens, d. 1640, Wild-boar Hunt ; Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit ; Veronese, d. 1588, Venetian princess ; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the right is the " Ecole Provencal," containing among other paintings — Barry, The Bosphorus ; Duparc, d. 1778, The Milk- maid, and portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting ; Papety, d. 1849, "La Vierge Consolatrice " ; P. Puget, Madonna. In the left room are, among others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, "Woman feeding Child. The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the conchological division and the collection of ammonites. From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the 1 alace, on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the sea, supplied ^^-ith water from the main channel by a branch canal, which enters the reservoir at the north-east end through a basin surrounded by a railing. At this part of the hill is one of the entrances to the Zoological Gardens ; free on Sundays. Near this is the entrance to the Observatory, one of the most important in France. The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is pro- tected on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. Its appruaclies are lighted by six lighthouses, of which the most distant is on the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from Mar- \7 S OTJTH Hotel de Ville. Cathedral. Arc de Triomphe. 9 seilles. The large steam -vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, covering 55 acres, and finished in 1853 ; while the old-fashioned trading- vessels, with their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour called emphati- cally the "Port," containing 1b\ acres. From the end of the " Port " extends eastwards the greatly - frequented street La Cannebiere, so called from the rope-Avalks, whose site it now occupies. At nearly the middle of the N. side of the "Port" is the H6tel de Ville (1 in plan), built in the 17th century, and adorned with sculpture by Puget, born at Marseilles ; while at the western extremity of the same side, next Fort St. Jean, is a low building called La Con- sigue, or Health Office. Over the chimney-piece in the council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful relief in white marble by Puget, repre- senting the plague of Milan. To the right is a picture by Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce administering the sacrament to the plague-stricken inhabitants of Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch before the Virgin, by David. Fronting the ^vindows, "The frigate Justice returning from Constantinople with the plague on board," "I'an 4 de la Republique." Opposite the fireplace, "The cholera on board the Melpomene,'' by Horace Vernet. Next it, by Guerin, * ' The Chevalier Rose assisting to bury those who had died of the plague." Between them is a Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two windows is a portrait of Bishop Belsunce. (Fee, | fr.) Behind the Hotel de Ville is the Infirmary, and beyond it, on a terrace 30 ft. above the quay of Joliette, the Cathedral, a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., and 165 ft. from E. to W. at the transept ; built of gi'ay Florentine stone alternating with a whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of Aries. The nave is 52 ft. wdde, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome is 196 ft. high. Behind the cathedral are the Episcopal palace (5 in plan), the Seminary (4), and the Hospice de la Charite (7). Eastwards, in the Place d'Aix, is the Arc de Triomphe, an imitation of the Arch of Titus at Rome, commenced on 4th Nov. 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Due d'Angouleme in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58 ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz. Over the arch is the inscription — "^ la Republique.'' From the arch a steep street, the R. d'Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, with at the N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, "pour perpetuer le souvenir de sa charite et de son devouement durant la peste qui desola Marseille " in 1720, when 40,000 died of the plague. By the side of it are the 10 Marseilles. The Bourse. Palais de Justice. Alcazar Lyrique, a kind of cafe chantant, and the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p. 6). The continuation southwards of the Cours Belsunce is the Rue de Rome, and farther S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the W. or Port end of the Rue Cannebiere is the Bourse (marked 10 in the plan), a parallelogramic building, 154 feet broad by 223 long, erected between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60 ft. by 94, is ornamented with mural paintings. In the vestibule are allegorical statues of Marseilles and France, and a bas- relief representing Marseilles receiving productions from all parts of the world. On the opposite side of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the Opera-house, the Palais de Justice, and the Prefecture (12 in plan). The Palais de Justice, built in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment and peristyle bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, Prudence, etc. The outer hall, the "Salle des Pas- Perdus," is surrounded by 16 columns of red marble. The Prefecture is a splendid edifice in the Renaissance style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues and bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier d'honneur, communicating with a handsome recep- tion-room ornamented with mural paintings. From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of Notre Dame de la Garde, one of the principal sights, and the most prominent object in Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the 7th street right, the Cours Pierre - Puget, traverse the pretty promenade the Jardin de CoUine, and then ascend the narrow road the Montee des Oblats. From the Croix, 139 steps have to be ascended to reach the crypt ; and other 39 to the church, 535 ft. above the sea. The crypt and church are shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, can always be visited. Fee, ^ fi\ It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a gilded image of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to the head. The view commands the whole of Marseilles. To the N. E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 ft. ; to the S.E. is the Montague de Carpiagne, 1873 ft. ; and S. from it Mont Puget, 1798 ft. In front of ^larseilles are the islands Ratonneau and Pomegue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is the little island of If (p. 12). Off Cape Croisette are the islands of Maire and Peirot. The road down the little ravine (the Valon de I'Oriol) leads to the Corniche road. An easier way up to the church of Notre Dame is to commence the ascent from the Rue Cherchell at the S.W. end of the Cours Pierre Puget, by the Ascenseur (lift) ; which elevates passengers 235 ft. to the main road leading to Notre Dame. Fare 30 c. Notre Dame de la Garde. Lxjcee. Saint Victor. 11 NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE. Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 c^vi;. 1 qr. and 14 lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gi-atitude to it, and with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous interposition was displayed. From the streets Cannebiere and Noailles other handsome streets ramify, such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the Cours Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the Lycee or head gram- mar-school, and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliotheque et I'Ecole des Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the Boulevard du Musee, 1/7 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground- floor are the class-rooms, and on the first story the library, the collection of medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19^ wide. Among the medals are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 100,000 vols, and 1300 manuscripts. Closed between 12 and 2. At the entrance into the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in Marseilles, Saint Victor, all that remains of one of the most famous monasteries in Christendom, foimded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained deacon of the church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of St. Victor resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal and uncouth square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been added by Pope Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over the entrance door under these towers is a rude representation of St. George and the dragon. The upper church dates only from the beginning of the 13th century. Near the sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps leads down to the original church, a large and spacious crypt. Of this crypt the most ancient part is the small chapel shut off from the rest, \\'ith several tombs he^^Ti in the rock. Among those buried here were St. Victor, and, according to the tradition of the place, Lazarus also, who is said to have died at Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this chapel is man'ed by a modern altar Avith a stone reredos, sculptured, 12 Monte Christo. it is said, by Puget. The shaft of one of the columns has a sculptured rope coiled round it. Pieces of ornamental sculpture are seen at different parts of the crypt, and remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the sanctuary of a miraculous Avoodeu image of Mary and Child, said to have been carved by Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3^ ft. high, and is called Kotre Dame de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds of votaries from the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the sarcophagi have been removed to the museum in the Chateau Borely (p. 7). At the foot of the eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassin de Carenage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four minutes to the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is Saint Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th century. Excursions. — The principal excursion from Marseilles is to the Island of If, with its old chateau built by Francis 1., long used as a state prison. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, whence a stau- ascends to the terrace, on which is to the right the entrance to the chateau. On Sundays, steamer from head of Port — there and back 75 c, time 2 hours, of which about 30 minutes are spent on the island. Unless the weather be stormy, passengers land directly from the steamer. Having ascended to the castle, that low part of the rampart about 100 yards to the left of the enti-ance into the chateau is the place from which Monte Christo was swung into the sea. Within the entrance is a court with a draw-well in the centre. To the left are the cells of the priest and of Monte Christo. Some steps lead up to the platform passing several other cells. Although the view is extensive the islet Tiboulen is not seen from it. " ' "Well, here we are at last,' said one of the gravediggers. ' A little farther — a little farther, ' said the other. ' You know very well that the last was stopped on his way, dashed on the rocks, and the governor told us next day that we were careless fellows. ' They ascended five or six more steps, and then Dantes felt that they took him one by the head and the other by the heels, and swung him to and fro." (See end of this book for the whole quotation. ) Steam tram from the Bassin Joliette, along the coast of the bay of ^larseilles, to Estaque 7 miles W. by the brick and tile-making to^^^ls of St. Louis and ^Madrague. Fare 9 sous. It is much frequented on feast- days. The electric tram in the Cours Belzunce goes also to St. Louis. ^Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by rail, and to Port-de-Bou other 3 miles. Fare, first class, 4 frs. 30 c. See map, p. 17. From Port Bou rail to Miramas, 16^ m. N., or steamboat by the canal to Aries. After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is Manufactures and Commerce of Marseilles. 1 3 L'Estaqiie, 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot of a wooded hill. 4^ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn close to the station. Here the Martignes branch separates from the main line, and the Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an omnibus awaits passengers for Marignane, 3| m. W. on Lake Marig- nane. Remains of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake Marignane is separated from Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The train after passing Marignane station arrives at the station for Chateauneuf, a village S. towards the hills. Les Martigues, pop. 7000. At station, omnibus for the inn. Hotel du Cours. The decayed port or town of Martigues is situated on both sides of the outlet from Lake Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all connected by bridges. The railway station, the hotel, and a large part of the town are on the E. or Jonquiere side. On the first or smallest of the three islets are the Tribunal de la Peche and the fish- market ; on the middle one is the Hotel de Yille ; and on the third and largest are the hospital and the parish church with sculptured portals. On the N. side of the canal is part of the town called Ferrieres, containing the harbom- and the reservoirs for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the principal industry of the inhabitants. There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The Infirmary (Hotel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can accommodate 750 patients. The "Workhouse (Hospice de la Charite) contains generally from 600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near the Prado is the Hopital de la Conception, with 800 beds. The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories, with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at £2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and chemical works ; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000 tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ 2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at £320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry ; a large quantity of ore, imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast furnaces of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and yards, together with other private companies, have large workshops for the construction or repair of marine steam-en^nes, and for every branch of iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Llarseilles is a great centre for the extraction of silver from lead ore ; 16,000 tons of lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated annually. Commerce. — The chief imports in point of bulk are cereals from the 14 The Marseillaise Hymn. Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria ; but the one of greatest value, raw silk, £4,000,000 yearly, comes from Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and Japan. Then follow metals, ores, timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. The principal exports in respect of value are silk, woollen and cotton fabrics, refined sugars, wines and spirits ; those of greatest bulk are cereals in the form of flour, building materials, oil-cakes, manufactures in metal, oils, glass and crystal. History. — The Greek colony of Massalia (in Latin, Massilia) was founded by the enterprising mariners of Phocssa in Asia Minor about 600 B.C. After the ravages of successive streams of invaders it was repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of its viscounts. In 1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed into a republic, governed by a podestat, aj)pointed for life. In the remainder of the Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, the higher toAvn was governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the creek of La Joliette. The southern subm-b was governed by the abbot of St. A^ictor, who owned the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, situated between the two, retained the old harbom-, and was the most powerful of the three divisions. The period of the Crusades brought great prosperity to Marseilles. King Rene made it his -vN-inter residence. Louis XIV. came in person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under the Fronde. He took the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas constructed. Marseilles repeatedly suffered from the plague. From May 1720 to May 1721 an epidemic raged with a severity for which it is almost impossible to find a parallel ; when Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, and others immortalised themselves by their courage and devotion. During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the aristo- cracy, who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Reign of Terror they rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by General Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to their maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the Suez Canal. The Marseillaise. — The famous anthem called "The Marseillaise" was composed by Joseph Rouget de I'lsle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on the 10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, 6i m. S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th April 1792, the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, Dietrich, the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their oflBcers, and during dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to Auhagne. 15 compose a war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired to his room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to bed. In the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying : " Tenez, voild ce que vous mavez demaiuU, mats j'ai peur que cela ne soit pas trop Ion." " Qice dites-vous, mon ami?" said Dietrich, after casting his eye over the MS. ; " vous avez fait un chef-d'oeuvre." The mayor's wife having tried it on the piano, the orchesti'a of the theatre were engaged to perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, when such was the enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched oflF with nearly 1000 instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the air "Le Chant de guerre de I'armee du Rhin." In July of the same year a detachment of volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of Barbaroux, and as they were in the habit of singing this song both on their march and in the capital it received the name of the " Hymne des Marseillais. " Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the scaffold June 1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the fall of the monarchy. MARSEILLES TO MENTON. By Hyeres, Cannes, Nice, and Monaco. 155 Miles. See maps, pp. 1 and 17. MENTON MILES TO 155 MARSEILLES. See "Marseilles, Toulon, Kice et Menton" v-,-' in the " Indicateur. " The train, after leaving Marseilles, traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by moimtains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel with the chapel of N". D. de Nazareth, St. Menet and La Penne, all situated at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to October, a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the cold mineral baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by omnibus from Marseilles. The bathing establishment is about ^ m. from the village, in an undulating hollow, among trees and vines. The water is cold, and contains iron and iodine, with a great deal of sulphur. It is effective in diseases of the liver. Pension, 8 to 10 frs. per day. 10| m. from Marseilles is Aubagne, pop. 9100. H. du Cours, 7^ frs. Omnibus daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Branch to Valdonne, 10^ m. F., by 6^ m. Auriol on the Huveaune, with inn, station for Cave St. Baume. From Auriol diligence to St. Zacharie, Inn : H. Lion d'Or. Then a drive of three hours by a bad mountain road to the hostelry kept by the nuns who have the charge of the 16 Cassis. Ciotat. Ollioules. cave where, tradition alleges, Alary Magdalen lived and died. It is much frequented by pilgiims. On the top of a rock 265 ft. above the cave is the chapel St. Pilon, and ^ hr. more to the left the summit of the Joug de I'Aigle, 3785 ft., commanding a magnificent view. See p. 39. Public coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where take rail. After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, if a sIoav train, halts at the next station. Cassis, a pleasant fishing village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont Gardiole (to the west, culminating point 1800 ft.), and Mont de Canaille (to the east, culminating point 1365 ft.) Inn: Hotel and Pension Liautaud. An omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. A very pretty path, passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a forest of pines on the sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, 6^ m. east by this road, and 23 m. from Marseilles by rail. Ciotat station ; whence branch 2\ m. south to the town {Inns : H. Univers : H. Commerce, 8 frs., pop. 13,000), at the head of a well-pro- tected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong stone jetties. At the western side of the little bay is a curious promontory, the Bee de I'Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of three lofty rocks in a row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the point is the small island He Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing is carried on in La Ciotat ; but the main business of the place is derived from the gi-eat shipbuild- ing yards of the Messageries Maritimes, which may be said to employ directly and indirectly the whole town. 4^ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27| from Marseilles, is the pretty village of St. Cyr, close to the station. 4^ m. farther is the station for Bandol, a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small islands. The industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in fields on the plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills. 36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station OUioules-St. Nazaire, where omnibuses await passengers for St. Xazaire, pop. 2500, a port on the Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, Inn : Grand Hotel ; situ- ated a short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by limestone cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to eacli other as to form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the brigand Gaspard de Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, I^azaire, and Bandol is the culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, are sent all over France. The largest and best -wreaths cost 24 frs. the dozen. Yellow is the natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed or bleached. They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges and lemons grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place of Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset, pop. 3000. Lin : France. ,<< 1 1 I /lafxiii JJfuhU L>¥ ^^j7 Aa777 \v" iarf'i^" -?//'///j VT ^'''■z -^^^ '''' ^ A/ 6 1 s. ^- irimdnd« 7'cr.i/y' "/ ^/.j d>f->/e (/e xu nicfue 'tap cfeJie/i^ I^/e Fort tie Rade cl'ttpTeres -^oCJ-stael yc.desJfed/'s «w?.P i ^ y T ;i^ r onrjPauXue . '{•i'^y I . dxi L evarkt La Seym. Six Fours. Mary Magdalene. 17 38^ ni. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is La Seyne- Tamaris station. An omnibus awaits passengers for both towns. La Seyne, pop. 14,800, H. de la Mediterranee, situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which two ports there is constant communica- tion by steamers. Near the hotel is the office of the omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1;^ m. S.E., at the foot of Fort Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. See p. 20. The omnibus returns by Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La Seyne, from which Eeynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the new fort and what remains of the ancient village of Six Fours, once a town of importance. The greater part of the crumbling walls has been cleared away, and in their stead a strong fort has been built, which occupies the entire summit of the hill. The old church still remains, of which the earliest part, 6th cent., is at the entrance extending east and west, and was originally the whole building. To the right hand are two stone altars (6th cent.), with windows behind them to give light to the officiating priest, who at that time said mass with his face to the audience. The nave, extending N". and S., was added in the loth cent. It contains a Madonna by Puget, and some pictures on wood of the loth cent. Under the church is a large cistern, formerly, according to the " Annales de Six Fours," the chapel or house where Mary, sent by her brother Lazarus, told the inhabitants about Jesus. She Avas buried in the crypt of St. ^laxiniin, according to the local tradition (p. 39). TOULON. Maps, pp. 1 and 21 42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyeres, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m, S.W. from Cannes, and 98| m. S.W. from Nice, is Toulon, pop. 78,000. Fronting station is a monument to the memory "des Marins et Soldats Toulonnais tues depuis 1870 " : also the Ter- minus Hotel. Hotels : the Grand Hotel in the Place de la Libertie. Near the post, the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and the Louvre : in the Place Puget the Nord and H. France. From the Place Puget start the buses for Hyeres, 11 m. E. by the road ; and for Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and scallop shells on the fountain in the centre of the " Place " are by Puget. In the Place d'Armes, the finest square in the town, is the Hotel de la Paix, front- ing the Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band plays on Sundays, Near this, by the Avenue Porte de France, is the Promenade or Jardin de la Ville with a handsome fountain embellished with statuary and a church doorway of the 16th cent. In this neighbourhood is the 2 18 Toulon. Belle-Poule. Forts. :Musee. The pictures are chiefly of the French school, 18th and 19th cents. The omnibuses for Cape Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrieres, Sollies - Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, and Neroules, start from the Place d'Armand Valle at the east end of Toulon. The best restaurants are on the quay of the port. The Quai du Port. — The bronze statue on this quay, representing Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint Mandrier, 3| m. S., Les Sablettes, and the lies d'Hyeres. More to the right is the berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the hulk of the famous Belle-Poule, covered with a roof of sloping planks. This was the vessel in which Napoleon's body was brought from St. Helena and deposited in the Hotel des Invalides on the 15th December 1840. The Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of the expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, with whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and Marchand the Emperor's valet, all the latest and most devoted of Napoleon's adherents. On the 16th October the coffin was opened, when the body was found in an excellent state of preservation. On that same day the remains were embarked on board the Belle-Poule, and on the 18th the ship set sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where the body was transferred to the steamboat Normandie, which conveyed it up the Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a triumphal car. Cab fares. — The course, 1^ fr. ; the hour, 2 frs. The strongly fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising gi-adu- aUy fi'om the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east and west, and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour on either side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort Croix and large barracks ; to the east is La Platriere. 1000 ft., and immediately behind it Mt. Condon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft., and behind it Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort ; while from the water's edge at the west end of the port rises Fort Malbousquet. Similarly situ- ated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the last held by the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and most secure roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port Marchand and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. Then follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, all com- municating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by well- The Port. Sir Sydney Smith. Puget. 19 built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the arsenals and the establishments connected with them, which are on a scale of almost unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and employing about 10,000 men. Near the west end of the Port a large gateway with marble columns forms the entrance into the "Arsenal Maritime," covering 240 acres, and containing a general storehouse, 100 forge fires, two covered building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an armoury with at the entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by Puget. Adjoining is the Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles along the bay towards La Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and ship-equipment departments. Foreigners not admitted. Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound, from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little cafe ehantant, where gaudily dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf fronting the town-dock is called. As long as the sun is above the horizon it shines there, consequently during the cold season it is crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, un- fortunately, are poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are good cafes and restaurants, and booksellers' shops where plans of the town and neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in November 1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human life recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad with vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their country- men, not sparing even those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, amidst the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and imploring cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and embarking some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military genius the discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted himself to the utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage. Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the Town Hall, adorned with two admirable carj'atides b}' Pierre Puget. In front is the statue representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind, is the corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of nearly square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the smallest. The small side has three windows in each row, and the large four, the windows of the first three rows over the door- way being in couples. On the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under the eaves a projecting dentil cornice. 20 Balaguier. St. Mandrier. Tamaris. The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is the Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with immense lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends round to the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a fruit, flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the nan-ow five -storied house, at Xo. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.) At the Port end of the street is the "Place," Avhence the omnibus starts for Mourillon ; also the church of St, Francois de Paul. The interior contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to the left represents one of the inter- views betAveen J. C. and Marguerite Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents Mary announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the "conceived without sin." The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, be- tween houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of Sainte-Marie- Majeure, commenced in the 11th cent., and finished in the 18th. The exterior is unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft over the entrance is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar in the chapel to the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. The tabernacle and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to have also executed the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel representing the apostles looking into the empty tomb of ^Mary. Over the arch of the chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Canova. Several very good pictures adorn the church. All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest cross to La Seyne (pp. 17, 18). The St. Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, calling first at Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort Aiguillette to the north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter being easily recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses are situated towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of Fort Balaguier is Tamaris H. Grand-Hotel, consisting chiefly of villas in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind Tamaris rises Fort Caii-e or Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent carriage-road leads up to the top, commencing near the neck of land of the peninsula of Cepet. A bus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier, and La Seyne. The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the roads or Rade du Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At the landing- place is a comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day. Round the point, in a warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. Mandrier, with 1200 beds, one of the most important establishments of this kind ES G o 1 f e de G i e n s Mont Faron. La Valette. Mont Coudon. 2 1 in France. It occupies three sides of a parallelogiam, has a hand- some chapel, and a great cistern vaulted \\'ith concentric circles. Ad- joining is a large and well -sheltered garden. Visitors are readily admitted. In Toulon, near the Place d'Armes, is the Hopital de la Marine, exclusively for the navy. The St. Mandrier route is taken, during the bathing season, ^vith a slight difference, by the Sablettes boat, in a trifle over an horn- there and back, and costs each time 5 sous or 25 cents. Les Sablettes (Grand Hotel) is on the narrow isthmus between the Rade Lazaret and the sea. It is much frequented by bathers, although the beach is very stony. One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet above the sea. From the Porte Xotre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take the broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the railway. Then passing one of the artillery estab- lishments, leave the town by the Port of Ste. Anne— the name is on the gateway. From this the real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle ascent and continuous Avindings ever unfolding the most lovely views of the town and bay. When not far from the summit three roads meet. The road to the left goes to the bar- racks and to the to}). The nearly level road to the right goes to Fort Faron, and the steep roads to the left to Fort de la Croix on a rock above Fort Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette side of the mountain. The summit consists of a stony tableland, from which rise knolls of various elevations. The ascent can be done in a caniage. Toulon Omnibuses. — Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best are to Hyeres by La Valette, and to the village of Daxdenne, on a stream in the pictm-esque valley between Mont Faron and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 ft. high. The continuation of the road eastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short road northward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminence. The bus to Hyeres starts from the Place Puget. The coach to Les Moulins and Dardennes starts from the Place Gambetta. There and back 2| hrs. Tram to La Valette, pop. 1700, is 3^ m. E. from Toulon, and 7| W. from Hyeres by the omnibus. The carving on the chm'ch door, representing John writing the book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have been done by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft., in about 2h hours. "From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in all dii-ections. I have sought for them a gi'eat deal, and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the gi-aceful yet bold indentm-ed coast of France 22 Solkes-Po7it. Belgentier. Meounes. as exhibited from Condon." — Gecn-ge Sand. A carriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only a few feet from the summit, further progress is stopped by a fort, and the best of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane opposite the H6tel de Yille, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On the way up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves. Omnibus to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste. Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both buses start from the Place d'ltalie, or d'Armand Valle. Although this road skirts the coast, little of it is seen on account of the garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east of the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses, -vsith a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slope of an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable village to the S. of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. At Cap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke. Tram from the Place Louis Blanc, at the E. end of the Port, to St. Helene, village and bathing station, between Forts Mourillon and La Malgue, 3^ m. , 3 sous. Diligence Drives. — Toulon to Meounes, 19^ m. N. by diligence from the Place d'ltalie. Time, 3 hrs. ; fare, 2| frs. (Map, p. 17.) The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlede 4| m., and Sollies-Yille, arrives at Sollies-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and 10 J m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from Hyeres await its anival. The coach, north, to Brignoles passes by the same way, but at an earlier hour. From Sollies-Pont commences the beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and precij)itous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Sollies - Toucas (328 ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. higher up, and 12^ m. from Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after passing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft. , arrives at the best headquarters in the valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Xaille, an affluent of the Gapeau, 3^ m. N. from Belgentier, 8^ m. N. from Sollies-Pont, 6 m. E. from Signes, 4| m. S. from Roquebrussane, 12 m. S. E. from Le Camp, 5 m. S. from Gareoules, and Ih m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway station, which is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles. The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak over- Montrieux. La Crau. Pierrefeii. 23 looking the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the words "Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of sinners, pray for us." On the fourth side "June 1870." Eastward is a great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. Going round from south to east the culminat- ing points reach the elevations of 1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft., 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 ft., and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively stony. Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian Monastery of Montrieux (pronounced ^lonrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1^ m. to a bridge and first road right, which take. A little way up, the road divides into two ; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased, along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps and feeds by himself. Both afl&rm : ' ' Xous ne permettons jamais aux femmes d'enti'er dans notre enceinte ; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le prophete, ni le juge, ni I'hote de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni meme le premier modele sorti de ses mains, n'ont pu echapper aux caresses ou aux tromperies des femmes." A nearer but very stony path, commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent. Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roque- brussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Gareoules, and the Toulon coach to Gareoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles 3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles see p. 38.) Toulon to CoUobrieres. — From the Place d'ltalie a coach starts daily to CoUobrieres, 25 m. N.E. by E., passing through La Valette 3 J m.. La Garde with its castle 5 m., and La Crau 7^ m. Inn : H. de France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyeres and La Crau. From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 ra. from Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace, a little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to CoUobrieres, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2 J frs, ; time, \\ hrs. Excursionists from Hyeres should await the diligence at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 p.m. : or take the rail to Cuers 24 Collohneres. Porquerolles. station, where bus and "courrier" await passengers. At Ciiers, Inn: H. Negociants. From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyeres ^vith water, is crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the Real -Martin, the principal affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop. 4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley of Real-Collobrier to CoUobrieres, po]3. 3600, on an eminence rising from the stream. Inn : H. de Notre Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the principal street, near the Post and the Hotel de A'ille \\it\i the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old chm-ch, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed %\'ith fruit trees. On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. A few miles east from CoUobrieres by the village of Rascas is La Yerne, an old Chartreuse convent, now a farm house, with a handsome doorway. The wine grown here, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured. A ^\^.nding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends north- wards to Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and Pignans station is the culminating jioint of the Maures, on which is the chapel of X. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea. The Islands of Hyeres, or the lies d'Or. Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles ; time 2 hrs., fare 2 frs. ; thence to the He Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins of Hyeres to Porquerolles by the Hes du Levant and Port-Cros. The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and southwards is the peninsula of Cepet M'ith the large Military Hospital of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyeres is afterwards seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of Giens (see p. 34, and maps, pp. 17 and 21). Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover Port-Cros 25 the mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vine- yards and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum. Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus Olbieusis. The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. side of the island, exactly opposite Hyeres, and 9 m. from Les Salins. The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor alongside. In the "Place," quite close to the pier, are the church, the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two inns, of which the H. du Progi^es is the larger of the two. Above the town, at an elevation of 215 ft, is the castle, with some small buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison. There are three main roads in the island — the road by the N. coast westward is called the Chemin du Langoustier, the road by the N. coast eastward the Chemin des Medes, and the road up the centre of the island, from N. to S., the Chemin au Phare. This last road commences at the N. W. corner of the " Place " and terminates at the lighthouse on Cap d' Amies, the most southern point of the island, 210 ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light. The first road right from the N.AV. corner of the " Place" is the Chemin du Langoustier, which on its way westward traverses a comj)aratively open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the left, 370 ft. high, is an old Avatch-tower, considered the most ancient structure on the island. I\"ear the end of the road is a decayed soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea. The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Medes, traverses the most fertile part of the island. About half way, near Point Lequin, it passes round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S. , on whose summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal -station, commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyeres, and of the coast to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commence- ment looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Medes ter- minates at a farmhouse called Notre Dame, fonnerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Medes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft. high. Port-Cros. — 11| m. E. from Porquerolles - port is the island of Port-Cros, 12^ m. S. from Les Salins. The village is on the west side of the island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor's house to Port Man at the eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea ; it is 2^ m. from S.W. to N.E., and It m. from N. to S., and contains 26 Hyeres. Hotels. Prices. 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar — mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves ■with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times. About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more sterile island of the Levant, 5 m. from E. to W., and l\ from N. to S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pien-es Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the sea. Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline aboimd. Toulon to Hyeres. Map, p. 21. Toulon to Hyeres. — Passengers at Toulon for Hyeres, 11 m. E., can go either by the omnibus, which starts five times daily from No. 14 Place Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train to Hyeres, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line commences hy La Crau to Hyeres, 13 miles from Toulon. HYERES, pop. 16,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the nearest to England, and only 18:^ hours from Paris. It is the least expensive of the Riviera stations, and is within easy access from Toulon to Porquerolles by steamer, and to St. Tropez by the new coast railway. In both places are hotels, and both places are healthful. The hotel at St. Tropez is good, with moderate charges. Hyeres, however, is not so gay as Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, but none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety of charming country walks and drives either by boat, coach, or rail. The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is f m. S. from Hyeres, and | m. N. from the Hermitage Hill or Costebelle. Hotels. — Well sheltered and well situated for invalids are the three houses on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea — the Hotel Hermitage : the Hotel Albion : and the Hotel Costebelle, first-class houses near each other, and having the same charges. The pension price, for not less than a week, varies according to the room. On the ground and first floor south, the price is from 14 to 16 frs. Second floor 13 to 14 frs. Third floor 12 frs. North rooms 10 frs. These prices include bedroom and attendance, tea or coffee with bread and butter in the morning, lunch at 12 or 12.30, dinner at 6.30 or 7, but not ^vine. As those hotels are situated about 1^ mile from the sea, and about 200 ft. above it, in the midst of pines and cork oaks, they combine the advantages of Arcachon with those of the best parts V- " ^ <^ -A ^'^ ^^ — t - V J. o^'^'-' AVEXL'E o Pharmacy. Clubs. Cab Fares. Drives. 27 of the Riviera. Adjoining these hotels is an English church, and near them the tennis courts, North from the station and at the entrance to Hyeres, below the Place des Palmiers, is the H. des Palmiers. On the same level as the Place des Palmiers is the H. lies d'Or : and on an eminence above it the H. Continental, both from 13 to 20 frs. and both commanding extensive views. Almost adjoining the first-class hotel, the H. lies d'Or, is the H. des Hesperides, a comfortable house with moderate charges. Pension for not less than 8 days from 6 to 8 francs, according to the room occupied. The price includes wine. Coach from the hotels to the golf ground on the Gapeau, 1^ mile east. Off the main street are the Ambassadeurs, 12 frs. At head of Avenue de la Gare the Paris, frequented by commercials. At the east end of the Boulevard des Palmiers is the H. du Pare, 7 to 10 frs. On the opposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-class house, the H. lies d'Hyeres, 7 to 10 frs, with wine. On the east side of Hyeres and less exposed to the mistral are the Hotel Orient, 10 to 16 frs., opposite the public gardens ; farther E. on the hillside, the H. Chateaubriand, well sheltered, 10 to 16 frs. Do-^Ti by one of the roads leading to the sea, in a sunny situation, is the H. des Etrangers, 6 to 10 frs. N'ear the Place des Palmiers are the French and English bookshop, the Powell-English Phai-macy, the English Bank Avith Cook's agency, the Reading -Room with Gaze's agency, the French Bank and the Temple Protestant. The English church is in the Boulevard Victoria, and the Post and Telegraph Office in the Avenue des Palmiers. There are several clubs, the best are the Siecle and the Progres. Here as well as at the other stations on the Riviera, these clubs or cercles have gambling -rooms ; more dangerous than Monte Carlo, because they are private and allow gambling on credit. Cab fares. — Per hour, 2 frs. ; each seat more than two, | fr. extra ; each trunk, ^ fr. Drive to station or jardin d'acclimatation, 1^ fr. ; each seat more than two, ^ fr. A carriage per month with driver and 2 horses, 500 frs. With one horse, 300 frs. Apply to Emile Salusse, in the Boulevard des Palmiers. JDrives. — A 3 to 4 hom's' drive in a victoria with 1 horse costs 6 to 8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. 28 Hyeres. The great drive, forming a day's excursion, is to tlie Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N., by La Crau, SoUies-Pont, and Belgentier (see p. 23). Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs., there and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Bregan9on, 16 miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyeres) amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain" called La Plage Largeutiere, in which is situated the Chateau de Bormettes, built by Horace Yernet (7^ m. E. from Hyeres). A little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegi'in, are the chateaux of Leoubes (11 m.) and Bregangon ; and, on the western point of Cap Benat, Fort Bregangon, about 4 miles west of Bormes. (For Bormes see p. 36.) A short pleasant drive is to Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the Vallee de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This I'oad passes by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides these there are a gi-eat many little drives which may be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as some parts of the road are not good. Coaches. — From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for^ Carqueyranne 6 J m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E., and La Londe, and for La Crau 4^ m. N. (see p. 23). Omnibuses. — The town omnibus takes passengers to or from the station for i fr. , each portmanteau 25 c. The hotel buses charge more. Buses from the hotels on the Hermitage or Costebelle run at stated times into the town. From the office of Emile Salusse, in the Boulevard des Palmiers, omnibuses leave 5 times daily for Toulon and return 5 times. Fare inside 1 fr. They go by La Pauline station, and pass through the village of La Valette. (See map, p. 21.) Hyeres proper is a little town of steep, narrow streets, running up the south-east side of the castle hill ; like, however, all the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully -wooded Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east -SAinds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the principal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the steej) streets Massillon. St. Louis. 29 of the old town, of which one of the gateways still exists. At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half way between these two stood the principal gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street Rue Portalet leads directly up to the Place Massillon, containing a commodious fish-market, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hotel de Yille. Standing at the top of the Rue Portalet ^vith the face to the Hotel de Ville, we have to the left a dingy lane 6 ft. wide, the Rue Rabaton, in which is the house, No. 7, where Alassillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, ^^■ithout gesture and parade. On one occasion, Avhen he preached to the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court — "Father, I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself." The language of Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii. 14, and had amved at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopoeia, which still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article " Eloquence " in the Encydopedie as an example presenting "/a figure la plus hardie, et l\tn des phis beaux traits d' eloquence qu'on puisse lire chez les anciens ct les modemes." His father, who spelt his name Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834. Above the "Place" is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to the church is an ancient baptismal font. At the low part of the to^\Ti, in the Place Royale or de la Republique, is the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent, in the Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remark- able picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their three children on the beach of Hyeres (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of 30 llie Chateau of Hyeres. Bertrand de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this square, the Place de la Republique, represents Charles of Anjou and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIIL of France, and brother of Louis IX. In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyeres. At the western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in 1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 24 of the Place de Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyeres are numerous nursery -gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the " Jardin d'Acclimatation," where animals, birds and plants are reared for the Jardin d'Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, and plants, flowers and milk are sold in them. Open to the public. From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the Costebelle, about 2i m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagues des Oiseaux. The winter here is exceptionally mild. Near the southern end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel of Notre Dame d'Hyeres, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are old olive trees. THE CHATEAU OF HYERES. On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the Chateau of Hyeres, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake of acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Hotel de Ville and the steep nari'ow streets beyond, keeping to the right, as the entrance into the castle grounds is at the S.E. end of the wall. The castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the 7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called Castrv.m arcearum or arceis. Considerable portions of the walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the most perfect part being on the western side, above the Hotel des lies d'Or. The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Imme- diately beneath are the town and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded Golf Ground. Mont Fenouillet. 31 with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, with generally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les Vieux Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards the peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 24), the largest of the islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. long. On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d'Hyeres, and the Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the j^lain, are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p. 21), and the eastern extremity of Mt. Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure mountains and the Pointe de la Galere. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 17 and 21.) Behind Hyeres Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft. at the western extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences at the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft., on which a gibbet for the execution of malefactors stood, hence the name. The small hill above the east end of Hyeres stands between the old and new cemeteries. For the new cemetery ascend from the Hotel Orient the Boulevard d'Orient and take the fifth road left, where there are a lamp and a telegrajih post. When at the top of the hill the cemetery is seen, and a path to the left leads down to it. About a mile from the town by the St. Raphael road is the golf ground on the banks of the Gapeau. For the rules of the club write to Mr. Corbett, British Vice-Consul, or the Manager of the English Bank. Excursion to Mont Fenouillet. — Behind the castle ramify three paths. The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of the Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left, called the " Chemin St. Bernard," leads down to the west end of Hyeres, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt. Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and some fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the Arbutus uneclo, or strawberry tree. When less than half way a road at Mt. Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the valley of the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visited by pilgi'ims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross 32 Hyeres. Water Supply. Olives. (3 Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it down to the road between Hyeres and Toulon. Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux. — The best way is to take the path commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending by the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places it is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the QuercxLS coccifera. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but on the way up charming landscapes of Hyeres on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other now and then unfold themselves. The Trou des F^es. — On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E. side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fees. The entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior, covered vdth. stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 vd^e. To explore it lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path leads directly to it. It is situated imder some fir trees. The road doAvn by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The other source is in the plain, on the road "du Pere- Eternel," nearly 2 m. S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. The water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. E. through the gravelly soil of the plain. To mention all the drives and walks would be both difiicult and confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the " chasseui-s " at such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure mountains and their interminable valleys ofler ample scope for the walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian. The principal agricultural products of Hyeres, as indeed of all the Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees become covered Avitli bark. If the sap be still in the semi-dormant state, and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12^ Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22". The cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyeres, and nearly all the trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots ; from each of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees groAnng round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella pines, the most numer- ous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or Quercus snher, generally accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the Quercus Corks. Heath Pipes. Fabn Sticks. Butterjiies. 33 coccifera. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, Avhen the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigoui-. A cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fift}^ years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the moimtain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the toAvns on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport. The curious caterpillar of the moth, Bomhyx jn'ocessionaria, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-Avater bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting them open the cater- pillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed dm-ing the night. "When they leave the nest they go in procession, follo^Wng each other with gi-eat precision. On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, gi'ows the heath Erica arhorea, from whose roots pipes are made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages. In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption of the French word hruyerc, signifying heath. The gi-eat " specialite "' of Hyeres is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits, and flowers for the northern markets, especially roses, straw- berries, peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain between the town and the sea is admii'ably suited for this purpose. The gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the surface, there is always abundance of water. Another of the " specialites " are walking-sticks made from the midrib of tlie palm leaf, twisted into a spiral form. The best are made by Ramel, 5 Rue Alphonse Denis. Butterjiies. — About Hyeres are many rare butterflies. Among the best is Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the beginning of September. It is found here and there along the Riviera, but most abundantly at Hyeres. The other good European species and varieties are : Thais Cassandra, T. iledesicaste, Euchloe Belia and var. Ausonia, E. Euphenoides, Thecla Ilicis, Thestor Ballus, Polyommatus Gordius, Lyccena Baetica, L. Telicanus, L. Sebrus, L. Cyllarus, L. Melanops, Charaxes Jasius, Apatura Clytie, Limenitis Camilla, Vanessa Egea, Melitiea Aurinia var. Provineialis, Argynnis Dia, A. Papliia var. Anargyra, Melanargia Procida, M. Syllius, Satyrus Fidia, Epinephele His[julla, E. Ida, E. Pasiphae, Csenonympha Dorus, Syrichthus Sidie, S. Sao. RepAJes. — The Green Lizard (Lacerta Yiridis) is veiy common both on the hills and in the plain. It can be easily tamed. The Great- Eyed Lizard (Lacerta Ocellata) is found in dry rocky places on the hills. It is more abundant on the island of Porquerolles than on the 3 34: Nitres. Climate. niaiulaud. There are also many snakes, though none are poisonous. The Seps, with the body of a slow-worm and small, almost useless feet, is also found. These rejttiles all appear in the springtime. — Harold Powell, of the English Pharmacy. Climate. — "The A\inter climate of Hyeres and Costebelle is suitable especially for consumption, chronic bronchitis, asthma, heart disease, and rheumatism ; also in Bright's disease, gout, incipient paralysis, and the feeble constitutions of delicate children. In consumption, obviously, the disease is most amenable in its early stages ; neverthe- less, remarkable instances have occurred of the relief and cure in advanced cases of a type quite unsuitable to Alpine climates. The occurrence of haemorrhage is not a contra-indicatiou to residence here. For those beyond middle life, it is difficult to conceive a more suitable environment than Costebelle offers. The climate of Hyeres is less exciting than that of Cannes and Xice." — Dr. Saictell. "The chief attractions of Hyeres are its climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who are in tolerable walking condition ; the walks and rides, both on the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by Avhich the hills are for the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed." — Dr. Edonn Lee. The mean winter temperature is 50° "3 F. (Dr. Biden), and the average winter rainfall is 14 "o inches. The barometer is high and steady. But on the Riviera, as in England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degi'ee of cold. Branch line between La Pauline and Les Salins, 11 m. S.E. By La Crau station If m. E., Hyeres station 4i rn. farther, and other 2f m. the station for La Plage, consisting of some prett}- villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. The beach adjoin- ing the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254. At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3^ m. S. , Avith the mainland. The large neck is traversed by a wide road extending to the Tour Fendue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite. The Hyeres bus which corresponds with this boat starts from the upper corner of the Place Portalet. When no boat is sailing the bus goes to the village Le Chateau (Giens), fare 15 sous, time H hour. The road to the Tour Fendue skirts large shallow rectangular basins, in which salt is made by natural evaporation. At the south end of the marshes is the little Aallage of the saltmakers. The salt is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles and on the sides with boards, which give them the appearance of houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyeres are obtained on the way to the saltworks. Tlie easiest way to approach the Narrow Neck is by the Carqueyranne coach. The Narrow-Neck road leads directly to tlie village of Le Chateau, or Giens, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. The necks consist of immense quantities of shells, especially the smaller one. From Le Chateau a road leads westward to the small fishing Les Salins. Carqueyranne. 35 hamlet of La Madrague, passing ou the left a huge block of quartz Anth layers of mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a house with a pepper-box tiuret, whence the continuation leads up to the semaj)hore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can be had on the isthmus. After La Plage, the train jjasses the bathing station of Cape, then crosses the Gapeau and arrives at the village of Les Salins, 18 m. from Toulon and 5 m. from Hyeres by rail. The omnibus from Hyeres to Les Salins stops in the small "Place " oj)posite the pier. Fare i fr. Les Salins is a poor hamlet, with a little harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of the sea water, into which it is admitted throughout the summer, in judicious doses. The continued heat of from May to August is required to produce a good crop of salt. During the cold months the sluices are left open. The basins occupy about 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of a coarse-grained salt, much esteemed by fish- curers. Sixty men are employed permanently, but five times that number during the hot or busy season. Majj, p. 21. Coach to Carqueyranne, 6 J m. "\V., by Costebelle and the coast. After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach amves at the commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some tine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. "West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling \411age, from Avhich the little port is about i m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. In Carqueyi-anne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3^^ warmer than Hyeres. Rail from Hyeres to St. Raphael, 52 m. N.E., map p. 17 ; see Chaix's Timetables. At La Foux station, 33i m. N.E. from Hyeres and 18i m. S. from St. Raphael, change for St. Tropez 2^ m. E., and for Cogolin 2i m. W. The train leaves Hyeres from the head station adjoining the station of the branch line from Toulon, at the end of the Avenue de la Gare, and calls at the town station for jiassengers. This rail skirts the coast, sometimes close to the beach and the rocks rising from the sea — at other places plunging into the olive groves and pine forests mixed with evergi-een and cork oaks, and passing seldom- visited villages, some quite hidden among the trees, others on the tops of hills, seen from a great distance. The St. Raphael terminus i.s immediately opjjosite the St. Raphael station of the " Paris -Lyon - Mediterranee " railway. 4i m. from the chief .station the train lialts at the entrance into the grounds occupied by the large salt-water evaporating tanks of Les Salins. The village is at the sea end of the road. 2i m. farther is La Londe, a village on both sides of the liighway. lOi m. from H3'eres 36 Bonnes. Cavalaire. La Foux. Cogolin. is La A^rrerie, a station which, like some others on this line, has no agglomeration of houses, but merely a few scattered dwellings of farmers whose principal produce is wine and olive oil. 13 m. Bonnes station, 1 mile from village, situated on the long ridge of hills which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Bregan^on. In the Place de la Republique or St. Francois is the inn, commanding a good view from the back ^nndows. At the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to CoUobrieres, 14 m. N. On the other side of the "Place" is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the rains of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to the church of Xotre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico, a view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon. 14 m. Le Lavandou — the station is next the town cemetery ; the village is on the sea, of which there is a good view. Inn: H. Etrangers. Excellent rock -lobsters (langoustes) are caught off this coast. 16J La Fossette, a small station in a large valley open to the sea. The He du Levant is well seen ; see map, p. 17. 18 m. Cavaliere station, Avith inn on the beach. View of the islands. Passing the small stations of Pramousquier and Le Canadel Ave reach 23 m. Le Dattier, the most sheltered station on the line. Two miles farther is Cavalaire station, with lodging and refresh- ment rooms. Cavalaire consists of some scattered farmhouses — one of them near the station is an inn as well. The white wine grown here, when tAvo years old, makes a very good dinner Avine. The valley of Cavalaire is highly cultivated. Vineyards and fields of artichokes, Avheat, maize, peas and potatoes occupy the plain, and olive trees, cork oaks, chestnuts and pines the mountains. "What, however, distinguishes this station most is the clean, smooth, sheltered beach, 1^ m. long, at the top of the bay. After -CaA'alaire folloAv, 26 m. Pardigon, on an eminence ; 2Si m. La Croix station ; 30^ m. Gassin ; and then 33i La Foux, Anth a good clean inn at the station. Change here for Cogolin Z\ m. AV., and for St. Tropez 3J m. E. Cogolin, pop. 2000. the inn, H. Cauvet, the Post and Telegraph Office, and the Hotel de Ville, are all near each other on the promenade. The toAvn. untidy like all the others in this quarter, is built on the slopes of a hill, on the top of Avhich are an old city gate and the remains of a AA-indmill. A little below the mill is the tOAvn cemetery. The vicAv of the valley is beautiful — it is sur- rounded by mountains, excepting at the side open to the sea. The town seen about 2 m. from this, perched on a hill Avith the ruins of a castle, is Grimaud, pop. 1400, Avith an inn. At Cogolin station a bus aAvaits passengers both for Cogolin and Grimaud. As it passes by the inn of Cogolin and through the best part of the tOAvn, tourists should continue in the bus to Grimaud : but both at Cogolin station and at Grimaud be careful to procure a seat in time. Grimaud is a more interest- ing Adllage Avith arcaded streets. In the principal square is a deep Avell hcAvn in "the rock, before the invention of gunpoAvder. The massiA'e AA-alls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the top of St. T/'opez. La Pauline. Carnoules. 37 the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and occupied till the middle of the 18th. 19 miniites E. from La Foux by branch line is St. Tropez, pop. 3800. *Hotel Continental. Pension for not less than 8 days, 8 francs, includ- ing tea or cotfee, meat breakfast and dinner with Avine, lights and service. The hotel is on the quay at the head of the beautiful bay, and quite close to the railway station. Town as usual consists of narrow streets. The church is in the style found in the valley of the Rhone and along the east coast of the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hj4res. Small chancel and no apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the high altar, one being to "Maria sine labe concepta." Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel ; and at the foot of tlie hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour, opposite the hotel, is a statue of Pierre Andre de Suffren, one of the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. A little steamer sails sometimes between St. Troj)ez and St. Raphael, calling at St. ^Maxime. Fare, 3 frs. 35 m. from Hyeres and 1^ from La Foux is Grimaud station — the trains halt here only when they have to leave or take " voyageurs sans bagages." 3J m. farther is St. Maximc-de-la-Toiu\ pop. 1100. Inn: Grand Hotel. Bus at station. A little country town, principally below the station, in the valley of the Preconiou, in a sheltered situation. 3| m. X."\V. among the mountains and pine forests is Le Plan-de-la-Tour, originally a Saracen \dllage. From St. ]\Iaxime the train, having passed the stations La Xartelle, La Garonnette, La Gaylarde and St. Aygulf, crosses the mouths of the Argens and arrives at Frejus, 49| m. from Hyeres by this way. See p. 41. The St. Raphael terminus of this railway adjoins the St. Raphael station of the gi'eat P.L.il. railway between Marseilles, Hyeres, Cannes, Nice and Menton. For St. Raphael see p. 42. ''mile? Ji^f Continuation of line, Marseilles to Menton. ^.f.^JJJ' 49 106 ^~' LA PAULINE, a few houses with a new church, near the foot >-,— of Mont Condon. Junction with line to Hyeres, 6^ m. E. From La Pauline the train arrives at Sollies-Pont, pop. 3000 ; Inns: Victoria : Commerce ; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on a steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Sollies- Ville, almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the side of the hills. Inn : Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for CoUo- brieres (see p. 24). 63i , 9U >~^ CARNOULES. Inn : H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gar- -^-^ danne. 52 m. N."\V., on the line between Marseilles and Aix. 38 St. Maximiii. Carnoules to Gardanne, 52 m. W, Interior line (see map, p. 17). On this line, 16 m. N.W. from Carnoules and 36 ra. E. from Gardanne, is Brignoles, pop. 6000, on the Carami. In'ns : Poste ; Cloche d'Or. This rather dirty town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. For exportation they are first carefully peeled, the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed, and afterwards packed in small flat circular boxes. The church, l-Sth cent., is in the highest jmrt of the to\\-n. St. Louis of Anjou, bishop of Toulouse, was born, 13th cent., in the palace of the counts of Pro- vence, now the Sous Prefecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. In the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments. Diligence daily to Barjols, 16 J m. X., between Draguignan and Meyi-argues (p. 40). Also to Toulon by Meoimes (see p. 23). On this branch, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is St. Maximin, 1043 ft. above sea, pop, 3000. H. du Yar : France. This ancient to\\-n con- tains the finest Gothic church in Provence. It was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards the end of the 13th cent., over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, 1st cent. It has no tran- sept. The nave is 239^ ft. long and 91^ ft. high, and the aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The width of the church is 127^ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. The interior of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 piers on each side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large and tine-toned organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist Fourcade playing upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the lovely screen of the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of Ste. Baume. Few parts of any church present such an admirable combination of beauty, elegance, and symmetry as this sancti^iary, by a Flemish monk, Frere Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured panels, each bearing within a ^^Teath a representation in relief of one of the incidents in the life of some celebrated member of the order of St. Dominic. Under them are 92 stalls in 4 rows ; at one end is the rood-loft, and at the other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The entrance is by one door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and spiral colonnettes. To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by Puget (?) in marble, representing the Ascension of ]\Iary ^lagdalene, and on the other side, ill terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. Maximin down in the crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at the east end of the N. aisle consists of a painting on wood hy an Italian artist in 1520. In the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on each side 8 paint- ings on panels representing the Passion. Below, on the table of the altar, is an Entombment. In the second chapel from this is another reredos in the same style, representing St. Laurent, St. Anthony, St. Sebastian, and St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like recess, is a very ancient iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the pulpit is the entrance into the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th Le Lia. Les Arcs. 39 cents. The sculpture above the sound-board of the pulpit is of one piece, and represents the Ascension of Mary Magdalene. The undulat- ing fluting on the panels and the sculpture on the railing are very graceful. Behind is the stair do^vn to the crypt in which Mary Magdalene died after having swallowed a consecrated wafer given her by St. Maximin. Her body Avas afterwards put into the elaborately- carved alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of the altar. The marble sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the Innocents Mary is said to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite Mary's is the marble sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then follow the sarcophagi, also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella (Mary's maid) and St. Sidonius, 2nd cent. They are all empty, having been rifled at the Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the skull of ^lary Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one of her armbones. (See also under Six Fours, p. 17.) The cave of Ste. Baumc, in which Mary Magdalene is said to have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque mountains, partly in the Yar and partly in the Bouches du Rhone, of which the culminating point is Mont de I'Aigle, 3785 ft. See p. 15. To go to it, take coach to La Poussiere, 5J m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by I^ans, 5 hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, above the cave, glorious view, p. 16, and map, p. 17. 12 m. W. from St. Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne is Trets, pop. 2200 ; Inn : France ; a dirty town surrounded by its old walls garnished with square towers. In the neiglibourhood are small coal- pits. 52 m. W. from Carnoules and 7 m. S. from Aix is Gardanne, pop. 3100 ; Inn: H. True. Situated in the midst of coalfields. ' Mx^f FK^f Continuation of line, Marseilles to Menton. ^^^J^^J 75i 791- ^-^ LE LUC station, 1^ m. from the town, pop. 3900. Inn:^^— Poste. Coach daily from the station by a beautiful road across the Maure mountains to St. Tropez, 26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. Fare, 5 frs. Time, 4 to 5 hrs. The coach, shortly after leaving the station, begins the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, chestnuts and firs. On the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and 12 m. from Luc, is the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where the horses are changed. This was the site of the Grand- Fraxinet, one of the strongholds of the ]\Ioors from which they were driven in 973. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde, on an eminence, is Grimaud, p. 37. 19 m. from Luc and 3^ from La Foux is Cogolin, p. 36. 84i- 70J -.1' LES ARCS, H, France. Branch to Draguignan 8 miles N. ^—^ From Draguignan branch to Meyrargues, 61 m. N.W. (see map, p. 17) by Salernes, Barjols, Rians, and PeyroUes ; situated in a hilly country, covered with vineyards, fields, olive and mulberry trees. Both 40 Draguignan. Bai'jols. Draguiguau and Meyrargiies are ou the raihvay system of the Paris and Lyons Co. , and also on the line of the Chemins de Fer du Sud. Draguignan, pop. 10,000, on the Nartiibie. Hutds: Bertin : Feri-aud. 8 m. from Les Arcs on the south side of the Malmont momitains, which attain an elevation of 2150 ft. In the old toMTi is the clock- tower, 58 ft. high, commandmg an extensive view of the plain and of the surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing thirteen rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. The Jardin des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the ancient gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the principal products, | m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is a large* dolmen composed of one flat stone resting on four similar stones. The top slab is 16 ft. long by 12^ -wide and \h thick. The others are each 7 ft. high, excepting one, which is broken. Indications of markings may be traced. Growing around this interesting Celtic monument are an oak, a splendid specimen of a " micocoulier " {Celtis australis), and a juniper, 20 ft. high, of a very great age. The way to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend the street, and take the first road left. AVhen within a few yards of the kilometre stone, indicating 1 kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps, take the private road to the left, leading into an olive tree plantation. 4i m. "W. from Draguignan is Flayosc station, about 1 m. from village — no omnibus, 5^ m. farther is Lorgues station. Omnibuses await passengers for village, pop. 4300 ; Inns : Course : Bonnefoy. 18| m. W. from Draguignan is Salernes station, 794 ft. above the sea. Omnibuses await passengers for village, pop. 3400 ; Inns: Boyer : Andre. Pottery and paving tile works. An elm at the fountain dates from 1683. Coach daily to Aups, pop. 2400, on the Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea. Inn : Gontard, ^^-ith good beer. 37:1 m. E. from Jtleyrargues and 23| m. W. from Draguignan is Sillans station. Bus for inn of village perched on a hill opposite ; and for Aups. Cascade 164 ft. 5 m. farther Rognette station, 1325 ft. Other 4^ m. is Ponteves, 1026 feet. Ruins of large castle. 27 m. E. from Meyi-argues and 34 W. from Draguignan is Barjols, 1000 ft., pop. 3000, Hotel: France, at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Ecrevisses. Coach daily to Brignoles, 16^ m. S. (p. 38). 3| m. W, from Barjols is Yarages station, 1004 ft., bus for town on a hill overlooking station. 6^ m. farther is Esparron station, 1293 ft., town on eminence, 1 m. from station. 2 m. beyond Esparron is Artigues station, 1194 ft., and other 2h m. Rians station, 1165 ft. pop. 2600. Bus for hotel and coach to St. Maximin. oh m. E. from Meyrargues is Jouques station, 866 ft. Village on the Biarn close to station. 1| m. from Jouques at Traconade are the copious Bouillidous springs and the funnel of the Couroublaou, from which water gushes after heavy rains. S^ m. from Meyrargues is Peyrolles station, 722 ft., village, pop. 1100, at the foot of the Grande- Sambue, 2560 ft. MeATargues is situated on the great line between Grenoble, 80 m. N., and Marseilles 34^ m. S. For Manosque, see p. 65. B B A M E A le\4<"" FSlT-RtL MorXTAlNS FREJUS »No ST RAPHAEL CANNES R ^ M E D I T E R R A N E A N r> G Frejus. 41 Draguignan to Grasse, 40 m. N.E. (map, p. 17), by Figaiiierea 7 m., Callas 10 m., Bargemon llf m., Claviers 13f m., one of the largest villages ; Seillans 20 J m., Fayenee 23 m., large village on top of hill overlooking station — bus awaits passengers for inn. Callian 26 m., similarly situated (p. 59). Montauroux 28 m., far from station, bus awaits passengers (p. 59). Between !Montauroux and the next station, Peymeinade 36 m., the line crosses the Siagne by a viaduct 210 ft. high. Shortly after the train arrives at Grasse at a station considerably higher and nearer to the town than the station of the branch line from Cannes (p. 57). The line between Draguignan and Grasse is picturesque, but the trains are slow. See Grasse to Nice, p. 59. ""^l^ continuation of lin., Marseilles to Menton. ^{^^ 98 57 ^^ FREJUS, pop. 3400, H. Midi close to station. Situated on ^^ the Reyran at the S.W. extreniitj^ of the Esterel mountains, a pictur- esque group 13 m. from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the "Route de Paris en Italie," which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22^ m. E,, passes by their highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 1820 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm of the Esterels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre green pines. To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the Port de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arenes, of which the greatest diameter was 224 ft., ^\•ith accommodation for upwards of 9000 spec- tators. On the eastern side of the station are the Porte d'Oree (harbour gate), and the terrace called the Butte St. Antoine, formerly washed by the sea. N'ear this are remains of Roman towers and walls. The masonry throughout is admirable, composed of stones of the size of large bricks. Having visited the ruins by the side of the railway, pass up by the church, and leave tlie town hy a road having on the left hand a large building— the seminary. Having walked a fcAV paces, there will be seen to the left rather an ugly square tower, which marks the site of the theatre. In this neighbourhood are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water to Frejus from the Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and consisted of 87 arches 60 ft. high. To the right of the road is a terrace supported by (once) powerful masonry. Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part of the town is the parish church, which, with the adjoining "eveche," belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the baptistery. In the Rue Eveche is a house with a sculptured doorway and well- 42 Saint Raphael. Agay. executed caryatides. From Ficjiis commence the glimpses of the Medi- terranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. 100^ 54^ w^ SAINT RAPHAEL, a rapidly increasing place of 4000 inhabit- ^-^ ants. In winter its guests come from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and in summer from the hot interior in quest of cooling breezes and invigorating sea-bathing. Hotels : fronting the station the second-class hotels, Xegociants and France. Farther back the Post and Telegraph Office, the Church and the Casino. Then the first-class hotels charging from 10 to 15 frs. — the nearest to the station is the H. des Bains et Continental ; on eminences the H. St. Raphael and the Grand Hotel. Lower down are the Episcopal Chapel and the H. Beau Rivage. The Temple Protestant is more to the east. Omnibus between St. Raj)hael and Valescure, 2 m. inland, with *G. H. de Valescure, and the G. H. des Anglais. Both first-class. Among the numerous villas on the coast-road to Cannes is the Villa Close of Alphonse Karr, H m. from St. Raphael, where he died November 1890. Rail Hyeres, see Hyeres to St. Raphael, p. 35. St. Raphael, only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a salubrious and agi'eeable residence, with pleasant walks, either by the beach or up the valley of the Garonne into the Esterel mountains, where the rambles are endless. At the E. end of St. Raphael is a very pleasant park, rising from the rocks on the beach. Near the park is the Boulerie station and the Grand Hotel. Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and here he embarked in 1814 for the island of Elba. 105 50 ^^^ AGAY, H. Agay, a small custom-house station, at the head of — ^ a small bay, into which flows tlie Grenouiller ; on whose banks at Baisse-Violette may be found the Allium Sicilium. On the top of the conical hill, on the S.W. side of the station, is the Tour du Dramont, a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte Baume, 4^ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape Roux, 1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to the old chateau, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the railway to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds upwards to the summit of a small hill, Avhence descend to the stream in an eastwardly direction towards the red summit of Cape Roux. From the stream, a pathway will be seen ascending to Cape Roux, 1493 ft. Follow it till a high ridge is reached, close to the summit ; then take to the left. A few hundred yards from this is a Hotel das jfrutlods loteUUxJiAmnt D E C A N N E S St. Baume. Le Trayas. Cannes. 43 platform, -with a spout of running water and then a couple of abandoned buildings. About 260 ft. above this, in the face of the rock, is La Sainte Baume, the holy cave of St. Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a hermit's life for some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide path seen from the hermitage leading westward to the river in the valley. On the way remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone pillar, a Roman milestone, with an inscription. Some archfeologists base upon the existence of this stone their assertion that the Via Aurelia passed this way. At the bottom of the valley cross the Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay. After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at Le Trayas, the next and last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from St. Raphael, 6^: m. E. from Agay, and 8f m. AV. from Cannes. From Trayas also a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered nearer though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train passes from the department of Le Yar to the depart- ment of the Alpes Maritimes, then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having passed the pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, with hotel, enters the beautifully situated town of Cannes. CANNES, on the Gulf of Napoule, 120| m. E. from Marseilles 75 m. N.E. from Toulon, 78^ m. N.E. from Hyeres, and 19^ m. S.W. from Nice. The fixed population is about 22,000 ; it has 60 hotels, and above 700 villas ; Avhich, with the exception of some 165 belonging to resident French and English, are let by the season, from the 1st October to the last of May, at rents varying from £100 to £800, including plate and linen. For information regarding them apply to Messrs. Taylor and Riddett, agents and bankers, 43 Rue Frejus. "Five hundred thousand strangers are said to visit Cannes annually between October and May, and according to a rough calculation it is estimated that £5,000,000 sterling is spent there during that period, and that also the Post and Telegraph produce in the same time £84,000." — O'Donoghue's Cannes. Hotels and their charges. — It is impossible to state the exact sum a traveller may have to pay at any hotel, as the owners have so many means of evading even authorised statements and adding extras. The chief difference in the prices in the same hotel dej)ends entu'ely on the room, as all are charged the same for their board, service and candle ; therefore those requiring to be economical should ask for one of the least expensive rooms. Most of the hotels allow a considerably 44 Cannes. Hotels. lower price, the pension price, to those who stay not less than eight days ; but in every case it is necessary to arrange it with the landlord. Very many of the hotels in the country towns charge nothing for lights, and rarely more than half a franc for service and more, than 4 frs. for dinner, including wine ; often only 3i frs. The high-priced hotels charge for dinner from 5 to 7 frs., and vin ordinaire from 1| to 3 frs. Service 1 fr., and each candle from 75 c. to 1 fr. Most of the hotels on the Riviera do not include wine ; but in the majority of the other towns and villages throughout France no charge is made for wine nor for cider in the cider districts, nor beer in the beer districts. Hotels : opposite station the H. Xegociants. Room, lights and service 3 to 5 frs., dinner 3 frs., pension 9 to 10 frs. A few yards up the short street from the station is the H. Univers, prices much the same, but a better house for ladies. The wife of the landlord is an Austi-alian. Near it is the ISTouvel Hotel, From the station straight to the sea and the Allees de la Liberte are the ^ H. S^^lendide, R. etc. 7 to 14 frs., dinner 6 frs. : and the ^H. Xational, R. etc. 8 to 14 frs., dinner 6 frs. From this, proceeding eastward by the pleasant Boulevard de la Croisette, we have at the sea end of the Rue Bossu the office of the Post and Telegraph, and the ^H. Richelieu, pension from 9 to 12 frs : the ^H. Beau-Rivage, E. etc. 5 to 11 frs., dinner 6 frs. with wine, pension 10 to 20 frs. : the ^H. Gray and Albion, one of the oldest hotels in Cannes, rather dearer than the Beau-Rivage. H. Gonnet et de la Reine, another old established house, and with much the same price. Then the ^ Grand Hotel de Cannes, with entrance from the Boulevard or from the Rue Antibes, R. etc. from 5 to 15 frs., dinner 6 frs., pension 16 to 25 frs. : the H. Royal, R. etc. 4 to 12 frs., dinner 4^ frs., pension 9 to 12 frs. Beyond the Cercle Xautique is the H. de la Plage, R. 3 to 8 frs., dinner 4 J frs., pension 9 to 15 frs. Behind the H. Plage is the H. Suisse, R. etc. 3^ to 7^ frs., dinner 4 frs., pension 9 to 15 frs. Behind the H. Suisse and entered from tlie R. Antibes are : the H. Victoria : the P. Luxembourg : the H. Wagram : and the H. Anne Therese, pension from 9 to 15 frs. Close to the H. Anne Therese is Trinity Chai^el. Plan, p. 43, Likewise in the E. end of the plan, p. 43, but on the N. side of the railway are the hotels : the Louvre, opposite the landing side of the station and close to the Presbyterian Chapel, R. etc. 3 to 8 frs. , dinner 4 frs., pension 8 to 12 frs. Next it is the H. Britannique, same price. 1 The asterisk prefixed to the uame of a hotel indicates that it is one of the best of its class, 1 that it is first class, R. room, etc. stands for service and candle. The pervice is of course a daily charge, Imt not the candles. Duke of Albany. 45 Above the Britannique is the ^ H. Bristol, K. cto. 4 to 12 frs,, dinner 5 frs., pension 15 to 20 frs. Then follow the H. St. Victor: the H. Geneve, pension 7 to 10 frs. : and the H. France. Higher up on the way to the Villa Nevada is the *H. Mont Fleuri, R. etc. 4 to 12 frs., dinner 6 frs., pension 12 to 19 frs. Above the Bristol are the Pension St. Nicholas and the H6tel Alsace et Lorraine, R. etc. 4 to 12 frs., dinner 5 frs. Up the Boulevard Cannet are the ^ *H. Riche- mont and the *Des Anglais, R. etc. 4 to 12 frs., dinner 5 frs., pension 11 to 18 frs. Near the H. des Anglais is the Episcopal chapel St. Paul. Almost straight up from the chapel is the Invalid Ladies' Home. The atmosphere of the hills at some little distance from the sea is supposed to be in a less electrical condition and less liable to produce wakefulness than near the beach. Still higher than the above two hotels are the *H. Paradis : the H. Hollands : and the Prince de Galles (plan, p. 49), all first-class and with gardens. The charges in the Prince de Galles are much the same as those in the Grand Hotel de Cannes. Below, at S.E. end of plan p. 43, are the ^ *H. Windsor, R. etc. 3 to 9 frs., dinner 5 frs. More to the east the ^H. Beau Sejour, R. etc. 3 to 18 frs., dinner 6 frs., pension 15 to 20 frs. A little below the Beau Sejour are the *H. St. Charles, R. etc. 3 to 9 frs., dinner 5 frs., pension 10 to 16 frs. Then follow the ^ *H. Westminster : the H. Anges : and the St. Maurice. Farther east, plan p. 49, approaching the region of California, is the ^ *H. Californie, 12 to 25 frs., with garden in front and one of the reservoirs of the Cannes canal behind. Down, far below in a pine-tree Avood, is the ^ H. des Pins, 12 to 25 frs., near the Russian church. On an eminence rising from the Hotel Californie is the Villa Nevada, an unpretending cottage commanding a glorious view, in which the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, the 28tli March 1884. The room Avhere he breathed his last is on the first floor at the S.E. corner, lighted by two windows, one being under the gable and having in front a balcony. It is 17 ft. long by 14 Avide. By the side of the road, under the wall of the little garden, the "habitants de Cannes sans distinction de nationalite ni de religion " have erected a memorial fountain in two stages. From the higher of the two rises a colonnette surmounted by a group representing St. George and the dragon, by Lienard. Above the Nevada is the Villa Edelweiss, inhabited by the Queen in April 1887. At the foot of the garden belonging to the H. Californie, a memorial church was built by public subscription, on a site in no way connected with the prince. It was opened by the Prince of Wales in February 46 Cannes. Lord Brougham. Churches. 1S87, and on the 21st of the same month he laid tlie foundation-stone of the fountain. In a small chapel on the right of the chancel is the Queen's contribution to the memory of her son, a recumbent statue of Prince Leopold in Highland costume by Pellegrini, on a Gothic sarcophagus supported by six red marble colonnettes with carved -white stone capitals. His left hand points to the passage in the book he was reading the night before he died. East from the H. Californie by the Corniche road is the ^ H. Metro- pole, a very large house standing alone on the side of the hill. At the west or Port end of Cannes are the Hotel de Ville with all the municipal offices, and the ^H. des Princes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, with entrance from the Rue Frejus and the Boulevard du Midi, pension from 9 frs. A little farther is the ^ *H. Pavilion, room 3 to 12 frs., dinner 6 frs., pension 12 to 18 frs. It is between the French Protestant church and on the other side Christ-Episcopal chapel and the ^ *H. Terrasse, an old established house charging from 12 to 20 frs. per day. Higher up is the Pension des Grangers 8 to 12 frs. Above the Hotel de Yille by the Rue de la Colline are the H. Bel- Air ; and higher up, by the Chemin des Yallergues, the Beau Lieu, both good houses. "West from the Bel-Au" is the ^ H. Continental, with much the same prices as those of the Grand Hotel de Cannes, p. 44. After the Hotel Terrasse westward is the Villa Rothschild, and above it the H. Bellevue. After the Villa Rothschild comes the most famous and most interesting abode in Cannes, the Villa Louise Eleonore, the haven to which Henry Brougham, first Lord Brougham and Vaux, man of letters, man of science, advocate, orator, statesman, and Lord High Chancellor of England, used to retii'e to seek repose from the triumphs and disappointments of his agitated existence. Here his spirits became more equable, his mind more calm, his society charming, and here the last days of that veteran combatant of law and politics were spent, and here on the 7th May 1868 he expired, iu the first room to the right on entering. Next are the H. Beau Site and the H. Esterel, both belonging to the same proprietor. On a hill beyond Lubin's perfume-distilleiy is the Pension de la Tour, good and not so expensive as the Beau Site. Near this is the Bocca railway station on the P.L.M. line and on the line to Grasse. At the close of the season Cannes becomes deserted, very many of the shops are shut and nearly all the hotels, but the H. des Negociants and the H. Univers close to the station are always open. Churches. — There are eight Protestant churches iu Cannes — four Banks. Cabs. Steamers. 47 Episcopalian, one Presbyterian, one Lutheran, and two Temples Protestant. The Episcopalian Christ- Church and the smaller of the two Temjiles are near each other at the east end of the Route de Frejus. The other Temple is in the Rue Notre Dame, near the Post Office. The Presbyterian chapel is at the north end of the bridge across the railway at the station. St. Paul's Church is high up the Boulevard Cannet, near the Hotel des Anglais and below the H. Paradis. At the low or south end of this Boulevard is the German or Lutheran Church. At the east end of plan, p. 49, is Trinity Church. Straight up from St. Paul's Church by the Ancien Chemin Cannet is the Invalid Ladies' Home. Below the H. Californie is the Duke of Albany Memorial Church. Bankers and Money -Changers, etc. — Credit Lyonnais, 33 R. Antibes. Office of Cook and Son, 54 R. Antibes, near the Circulating Library and bookshop of Mr. Fotheringham, iSTo. 59 ; opposite Mr. Fothering- ham's the office of Gaze and Son, Ko. Q&. At No. 42 is the bookshop of M. Robaudy, and at 34 Vial's. At 43 Rue Frejus is the office of Messrs. Taylor and Riddett. Cab Fares. — ■r-h^ ^r.^, o. »•„ fk« f„„.v, One horse, seated for 3. Two horses, seated for 4. rhe course m the town. j^^^ y.^^^^^ j^^^. ^.^^^^^ A course within the ^ hr. 1 f. 1 f. 50. 1 f. 50. 2 f. 50. Beyond the i hr. . . 1 f. 50. 2 f . 2 f . 50. 3 f. 50. The hour . . . . 2 f. 50. 3 f. 50. 3 f. 50. 4 f. Finger-posts indicate the limits of the town whence ^ fr. extra is due. Portmanteaus, | fr. each. As the tariff is often altered, it is more satisfactory to procure from the octroi office, in the west end of the Hotel de Yille, a copy of the official tariff. It contains also the charges for the drives to and from the places in the neighbourhood. The tariff is gratis, and settles all dispute. Steamers from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and Saturdays trips to Theoule, 2 frs. Cannes extends 4i m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, and partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels cro^vn the hills, and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square, called the Allees de la Liberte, is at the head of the Gulf Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110 wide. It contains the Hotel de Yille and the H. Splendide. Between them is a marble statue, life-size, of Lord Brougham, "ne a Edinburgh, le 19 48 Cannes. Cemetery. Climate. Drives. Septembre 1778. Decede a Cannes le 7 Mai 1868," — the acknowledged founder of modern Cannes. The statue is by Lienard. The Hotel de Yille contains in the top story the Public Library and collections illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood. The obliging director gives every assistance in naming plants, insects and minerals. Public lectures are given here. At the head of the Alices, on the adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill, Mont Chevalier 147 ft., is the church of Notre-Dame-d'Esperance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the 15th. In front is a rudely constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St. Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square tower commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II. of the monastery of St. Honorat. From the top of the tower is an extensive view. Near the foot of the tower is a small observatory. On a much higlier hill behind is the new cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing the following inscription :—" HEXRICVS BROVGHAM. Xatus ISIDCCLXXVIII. Decessit MDCCCLXVIII." Near him is the tomb of James, fourth Duke of Montrose, K.T., who died at Cannes Dec. 1874. The body of Lord Brougham was kept as long as possible in the church in the expectation the government would send for it. The climate, though dry and sunny, is at times treacherous. In nooks sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but on leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. The mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy days in the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice. "The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as its equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimu- lating properties of the atmospliere, indicates its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic temperaments." — Madden's 72esor<5. "While Cannes, therefore, possesses a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and many classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those suffering from affections of the respiratory organs." — Dr. Hassall. Drives. — In Cannes there are great facilities for driving in car- riages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for their destinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Allees de la Liberte), or from the Rue de la Vapeur, near the Cours. The largest livery stables are in the Rue d'Antibes. The charge for a carriage, with coachman and two horses, per month is £30. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of 3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare. EAST CANNES RAJ) DJS The Cormiche of Cannes, Vallauris. 49 Besides a commodious theatre, Cannes has a handsome Casino, amply provided with all the attractions of such establishments. THE CORNICHE OF CANNES. One of the best drives about Cannes is to Vallauris by the low road to the Golfe de Juan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. X. and 250 feet above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5| m. S.W. by the Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with one horse, 14 frs, ; Avith two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1 fr. from the Place Liberte. By taking the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful walk along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little below Massier's pottery, and ascend the broad road. About ^ m. from the bridge, at the culminat- ing points of the road, 489 ft. above the sea, is the " Observatoire de la Corniche," with refreshment-rooms, commanding charming views towards the Alps, and of the country about Bordighera towards the coast. About a mile and a half beyond the observatory, at the S.W. end of the road, is the Hotel Metropole, a large first-class house. The Belvedere, at the Cannes end of the road, is 545 ft. above the sea. Behind it is the terminus of the canal which supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the branch by which the west of Cannes is supplied is above the Bellevue Hotel, on the road to the Croix des Gardes. (See p. 52.) From Cannes an excellent carriage-road (Boulevard de Californie) ascends to the Observatory, situated on the top of the Californie hill, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvedere. The route may be reversed, commencing the Corniche drive by the Boulevard de Californie, and returning from Vallauris by the Golfe de Juan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de Juan station is C. Massier's pottery, and a few yards towards Antibes is Napoleon's column (pp. 65 and 62). In Vallauris the best pottery is Massier Jerome Fils. Vallauris, pop. 4000, is a poor village, -with small cafes and restau- rants. The omnibus stops in the "Place " opposite the church and the Hotel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing an inscription, stating that ' ' the Emperor Tiberius remade the road it refers to in the 32nd year of his tribunician authority." Also a column, 4 ft. high and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription to Constantine. Vallam'is has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pot- tery, "Potteries Refractaires, " earthenware utensils, principally of the "marmite" or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without 4 50 Vallauris Clay-mines. Cannet. cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for 2 frs. To this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Juan. Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards from Vallauris ; but the best and richest strata (all of the Pleiocene period) are in the valley near to the spot where this road meets the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gi'ay, all in various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are made of a mixture of all the clays, Eed clay from Estaque, near Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery. Vallauris to Antibes. The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The road behind, extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is passed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes see pp. 51 and 65.) To the Licourdoules Hills. — By a steep road ramifying, 1| m. N.E. from the Antibes road, when about 125 yards from the Hotel de Ville of Vallauris. Having ascended to about 100 ft. from the little chapel of St. Bernard, turn to the right to reach the tableland on the top, 870 ft. above the sea. The Roman bricks, tiles, hQ\\u stones, etc., found here, indicate this to have been the site of one of their settle- ments. On the south side of the plateau is a cave called the grotte- du-Chevre d'Or. (See map, p. 51.) CANNET. Two miles K. from Cannes, by the spacious Boulevard Fonciere, is Cannet, 265 ft. , pop. 2600. Frequent communication between Cannes and Cannet by tram and omnibus. At the head of tlie boulevard is the *H. Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. : H. St. James. A little to the east is the church Ste. Filomene, and opposite it is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 the accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none of those good broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the church is the "Place," commanding a very pretty view. Cab to Cannet, leturning by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs. CANNES & ENVIRONS La Croisette. Antihes. Lighthoiise. 51 Drive to La Croisette, the first cape east from Cannes, by the beau- tiful road 2 ni. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1^ fr., or 2| frs. the hour. Two horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram 6 sous. Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Xear to La Croisette is the entrance to the orange orchard "Des Hesperides," occupying 4 acres. The trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process, and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there is a place for pigeon -shooting, and also the remains of fortifications begun by Richelieu, but never completed. Cannes to the Cap d'Antibes, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs. Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts from the Allees de la Liberte, and in Antibes from the "Place," fare 1 fr. Very near this "Place" are tAvo comfortable inns, the H. Commerce and the H. des Aigles d'Or ; pension 7 to 8 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carre, near the northern side of the entrance. From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St. Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and farther west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry ; the other forms part of an adjoining building, the "Bureau du Recrutement." (See p. 65.) The Cap d'Antibes affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the "Cap " from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph posts. Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a "Via Crucis," bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D. d'Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill im ft. above the sea. The building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one person, ^ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the road to the Villa Thuret and to the 52 Napoide. Theoule. Esterel. Hotel du Cap, a first-class house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical trees aud shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For Antibes see also p. 65.) The great tower on a rock to the W. , overlooking the sea, is a powder magazine. Drives to the west of Cannes. — La Croix des Gardes, 2\ m. N.W., and 49S ft. above the sea. An excellent carriage-road conducts to the top of this delightful hill. The nearest approach is from the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Yue Hotel. From the cross on the summit which gives its name to the hill the view is varied and extensive. The hillside is covered with plantations of the Acacia farnesiana. Cannes to Napoule, 6 m. "W. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs. ; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour's rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c, leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c. ; which, as it does not return till 4.30, affords ample time to walk on to Theoule and back, 2 m. AV. The Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little French church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. is Christ Church, one of the four Episcopal chapels. A short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is the Villa Eleonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by two large cypress trees gro^nng by the side of the railing. Three m. from Cannes, on an eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the road, is the poor little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is held on the 23rd of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in Brittany, called here Rovmieiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of the Esterel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas. Cannes to the Inn of Esterel, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 18 frs. ; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right or north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Due, 1265 ft., a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaete, 1663 ft. Afterwards the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. above the sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road amidst pictur- esque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Esterel. The inn is situated to the N. of Itlt. Yinaigre, having to the east the Plan Pinet, 876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigi-e, 1193 ft. above the inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Yinaigre commences near the inn. The culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about IJ m. Castelaras. Island of Ste. Marguerite. 53 "\V. from the inn at a place -where four roads meet, almost immediately below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point also. 7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the Siagne, passing the beautifully situated Hotel Garibondy, is the village of Pegomas, pop. 1350, on the Mom-achone, a slow-running stream in some parts hidden among bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but difficult walk up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab to Pegomas, 12 or 16 frs. ; 1 hour's rest. About 3 m. N.W. is Auribeau, pop. 480, prettily situated on the Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours' rest. 4| m. N. fi'om Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is Mougins, pop. 1680. The road ascends all the way, jmssing by the cemetery and traversing vineyards and large olive groves. The omnibus goes no farther than Les Baraques, about \ m. below the town. Fare, 75 e. Cab there and back, 1 horse, 12 frs. ; 2 horses, 16 frs. ; 1 hour's rest. Mougins still retains a few low portions of its walls and one gate, just behind the church. In the shop near the gate is the key of the church tower. The church dates from the 12th cent. From the tower, ascended by 75 steps, as well as from the esplanade at the entrance to the village, the view is superb, especially the panorama of the snowy Alps. To the west is La Koquette, N."\V. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond Grasse. To the S. W. near the sea, and on the border of the Esterels, is the village of Mandelieu. 4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by the new road, is Castelaras, 1050 ft. above the sea. Originally a camp of the Gauls and then of the Komans ; now half a villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view of Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, A^ence, etc., to the north ; Biot, Antibes, Xice, etc., to the east ; Mouans, Auribeau, and the Esterel mountains to the west ; and Cannes with its islands to the south. Under the tower is a vaulted cistern for rain water. The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take the train to Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the steep road to the east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse and to^^■er are distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The column farther north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse in 1883. ILES DE LERINS. By steamboat. Time, 1 hr. The steamer makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste. Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat to visit the castle. The island of Ste. Marguerite, 4^ m. in circumference and 1^ m. from the mainland, is covered entirely with a j)ine forest, except at Point Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, con- taining the apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined (2nd Dec. 1873, and from which he escaped in the following August), and the vaulted cell associated with the name of the Man of the Iron Mask, 54 Man of th^ Iron Mask. The present entrance did not exist at that time, and the only com- munication was by the now walled-up door which led into the house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind tlie prison a road, bordered by the Eucalyptus globulus, goes right through the pine plantation to the other side of the island. The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli, a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On the 13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard Paleotti, by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which has long since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader in the University of Bologna, which he soon quittelain and scanty fare, situated 3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. N, from Grasse. A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially wooded movmtains, with fields of wheat on laboriously terraced ground. 19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37^ from Grasse, is Castellane, 2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. Inns: Levant: Commerce. A village of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliti" on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most exten- sive prospect. Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here. A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in THE DURANCE, THE VAR AND THE ROYA r3\ I. ^^ f^ y' L Digue. Moustiers. Riez. 63 bad weather. IS m. W, from Castellane by a mountain - road is Moustiers Sainte Marie (see below). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the Col St. Pien-e, 3600 ft., and then descends to Taulanne, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Tau- lanne the road descends 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to Senez, pop. 620, among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river Asse, The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to 1242. 44| m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18| m. S. from Digne, is Barr^me, H. Abbes, 2250 ft., pop. 1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is taken here, and here the train may be taken. Cloth -mills and trade in dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbom'hood is a saline spring. The road from Barreme to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the Asse and the Clumane. Digne, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14 m. E. by branch line from the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80^ m. N. from Marseilles, 62^ m. N. from Aix, and 20^ m. N. from Manosque, 109 J m. S. from Grenoble ; 45^ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the rail from Die ; 41m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the railway line to Gap ; and 31 1 m. S. from Serre, the temiinus of the road from Nyons. Hotels in Digne : Boyer-Mistre : Remusat : Paris, in the Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from the Bleonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., numbered among the historic monimients of France. 1^ m. up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of ;Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115° Falir., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Xapoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and both supj^ly car- riages at so much per day. A very pleasant drive of 9| m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious village of Moustiers Ste. ^Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and returning at 4. Inn : H. du Mouton Com-onne. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone clifls, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these preci- pices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliff's, by the stair of the "Via Crucis," is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower do\\Ti is the jtarish church, of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. from Moustiers is Castellane (p. 62), but no public coach runs between them. Among the diligences that start from Digne, the most important is to Riez, 26 m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time i\ hrs., a gi-eat diligence 64 Riez. Greoidx. centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. Maxime. Inn : H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, (p. 65), 22 m. W., by Allemagne 5 m. ; St. Martin 8 m. ; and to Greoulx 12^ m. S.W. from Riez, and 9i m. E. from Manosque, fare 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie, 9 m. E. by Romnoulles, fare 2 frs. (For both see map, page 63). For Montmeyan, 18 m. S., by Quinson on the Verdon with small inn. (Maps, pp. 63 and 17.) From Montmeyan a coach runs to Barjols station (map, p. 17), Inn: H. Pont d'Or, 9i m. S., whence other coaches run to Brignoles (see p. 38). From Barjols train to Draguignan, 30 m. E., or to MejTargues, 27 m. "W. For Valensolles, 7^ m. W. from Riez, whence to Volx railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to Digne, 25 m. K"., by Puy- moisson, 3f m. N. ; La Begude 8 m. ; Estoublon llf m., and Mezel railway station on the Asse, Inn : H. du Cours, 8 m. S. from Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are olive trees ; in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and cherries (see maps, pp. 63 and 17). Riez is still partly surrounded by its old fortifications, and the highest of the towers is now a belfry. Up the main street, through either of the gateways, are houses Avith sculptured doors and transomed windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, enclosing a peristyle of eight monolith gi^anite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of four composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, lOtli cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. long and 10 -wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S. W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, is an excellent view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre. 12^ m. W. from Riez, and 9^ m. E. from Manosque, is Greoulx, pop. 1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Yerdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight Templars. Less than ^ m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to 5 fi's. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ^ fr. ; or the lowest price per day, 10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is 1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt new milk. Temp. 95° to 100" Fahr. The principal ingredient is the chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with other sulphurous compounds, which develoji themselves rapidly when the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths Manosque. Antibes. 65 are partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Greoulx to Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez. Digne to Nice by St. Andre and Puget-Theniers, page 77. Manosque, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, 22 m. N. from Pertuis, 41^ m. from Aix, SQ^ m. from Marseilles, and 130^ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhone and Savoy, p. 1, and map, p. 63). Hotels of Manosque : Pascal : Postes, commanding view of the surrounding mountains : near it the G. H. de Versailles : and the " Poste." Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive trees. Portions of the town walls and toAvers still remain, and the eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauvem-, easily recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.-E. end. Within the main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the facade are circular, the others small and round-headed ^^•ith modern glass. On each side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span ; the chancel is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the facade leads to the principal " Place," where there is a fountain, and whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Xotre Dame, in exactly tlie same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to tlie left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures in bold relief of the apostles, and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hotel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of Gerard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 22 m. E. ; and to Greoulx. MARSEILLES Continued from Cannes. ^f v"^^"" MILES FROM MILES TO i^ GOLFE-JUAN or VALLAURIS. A few yards up from the i^ station is a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his arrival from Elbe on March 1, 1815. A road with villas connects this port with Cannes. Opposite station are pottery showrooms. 126^ m. Juan-les-Pins. Grand Hotel. A quiet station, Avith an excellent beach surrounded by pine trees. Besides the train the Antibes bus passes every hour. 3 ANTIBES, pop. 7500. Hotels : Commerce : Aigles d'Or. A ^ fortified port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a Q6 Vence. Nice. raonumeut to tlieir own valour. Those wishing a bird's-eye view of the town should ascend the tower beside the church. Apply to sacristan in church. The wine of Antibes is of superior quality (see p. 51). From Antibes station coach to Biot, pop. 1400. 132 23 ._^ VEN"CE-CAG]SrES. At this station coaches await passengers v_^ for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northward by the same road is Vence, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, vdth a splendid view from the terrace, and most picturesque environs. Bus between Vence-Cagnes and Xiee. J;^ YAR. This station is on the left or Nice side of the river J^ Var, at the eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. 5 m. N.W. from the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or pepinieres, extensive but not well kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments. At the mouth of the A^ar is the racecourse. The races take place in January. See map, page 85. NICE is 140 m. X.E. from Marseilles, 95^ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95^ m. N.E. from Hyeres, 39 m. X.E. from St. Raphael, and 19 J m. X.E. from Cannes. It is 9^ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from Menton, 23i m. S.W. from Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf). Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, mostly covered over, j)op. 88,500. Hotels a'lid Pensions. — On the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the order of east to Avest, we have the *H6tel des Anglais, with one side to the "Jardin Public." Xext it is the Cercle (club) de la Iklediterranee, and on the other side of it the Hotel Luxembourg : then the Mediterranee : the Westminster : the Rome : St. Peters- bourg : and the Elysee. These are the most expensive hotels in Nice, in which rooms are 4 to 10 frs., dinner 6 frs., pension 12 to 20 frs. Round one side of the "Jardin Public" are the hotels Angleterre ; Bretagne : and France — similar houses, but a little less expensive. At the commencement of the R. des Postes, the second street from the south end of the Avenue de la Gare, is the starting point of the electric tram to Cimiez. Hotels. Pensions. 67 A little up the side of the river is the most important "Place'' in Xice, the Place Massena, containing the best shops, restaurants, cafes, and a large cabstand, and is either the terminus or is traversed by all the trams. Almost opposite is the Casino Municipal, built over the river. By the side of the Casino commences the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, with the first-class houses, the H. Cosmopolitain : the H. Paix : and the *Grand Hotel, fronting the pleasant sheltered garden of the Square ]Massena, also built over the river. The cost of these houses per day is at least 15 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais are the Pension Beaumettes, 15 to 20 frs., and at Xo. 77 also, with a large garden, the ^Pension Anglaise, 8 to 12 frs. according to room, including service. The Pont Magnan tram, running between the Pont and the Place ^lassena, passes these pensions every 10 minutes. On the Quai du ^Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, is the *H6tel Beau Rivage, near the Bank of France, and the Theatre, 10 to 16 frs. ; wine, 2 frs. A good deal farther E., at the foot of the Chateau Hill and near the Port, are the H. des Princes, 9 to 14 frs., and a Swiss boarding-house, pension 9 to 12 frs. Under the Chateau at the S.W. end of the Port, near the custom- house, are the offices of Fraissenet et C^^- with boats for Genoa, Leg- horn, and Bastia ; and of the Paquebots-Poste de la Corse, with boats for Calvi, Ajaccio, and Porto Torres in Sicily. The tram running between the railway station and the Port, by the Place Massena, stops at the head of the Port, in the Place Cassini (see plan). In the streets ramifying from the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare are the H. Emperem'S et Balmoral, 10 to 15 frs., wine 1 fr. Opposite it, the Bourse, the *H. Albion, 8 to 14 frs., wine 1| fr. ; and the H. des Negociants, 10 frs., v.-ith Avine. In the Avenue Beaulieu, the H. Rubion, a large house, 8 to 15 frs., wine 2 frs. In Carabacel, the sunniest and most sheltered part of Nice, are the H. JuUien, 10 to 17 frs., wine 2 frs. Opposite, the H. Hollande, 7 to 12 frs., W li fr. The *G. H. de Nice, 12 to 15 frs., W 2^ frs. A handsome house and the best for an invalid requiring a warm ex- posure. Next it the H. Bristol, 12 to 20 frs., AV 2 frs. Also the *H. d'Europe et d'Amerique, 8 to 12 frs., W H fr., which is a smaller and plainer house. Near the Episcopal chapel of Carabacel is the H. Carabacel, 8 to 12 frs., "W 1 fr. , also well sheltered. Less than half way up Cimiez is the Riviera Palace Hotel, a new and splendid house, and well situated. On Cimiez Hill, 430 feet above Carabacel, is the Grand Hotel de Cimiez, Avhere Queen Victoria resided in April 1S95. It is near the 68 Nice. Hotels. Pensions. Roman Amphitheatre, and abont 2 miles from Nice by the electric tram. The climate of Cimiez is considered sedative. In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the Rue de France and its continuation the Rue Massena, are some unexpensive houses. Commencing from the west end, at the back entrance to the Pension Anglaise, and going eastward, we have at No. 46 the P. Metropole, 8 to 10 fi-s. At Xo. 5 the H. et P. Tarelli, 9 to 12 frs. At No. 30 Rue Massena the H. Castille, 8 to 10 frs., with wine, but not tea in the morning. On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some good houses. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the railway, we have the H. de I'Univers, from 8 J frs., including wine ; service, ^ fr. per day. Then follow the *H. lies Britanniques, 10 to 20 frs., good wine 2 frs. *H. Paradis, same price : Louvre (dear) : then the Restaurant Rumpelmeyer, famous for ices. Opposite is the Athenaeum. Farther west the Hotel Splendide, 9 to 12 frs. Near the Presbyterian Chapel is the *Pension Internationale, 8 to 12 frs., including wine ; and the American Episcojjalian Church, in the Boul. Victor Hugo, No. 21. Next the Russian Chapel the Pension Helvetique : and in this neigh- bourhood the G. H. Milliet, 9 to 12 frs., W 1^ fr. Strangers uncertain which hotel to choose, or intending to spend only a day or two in Nice, are recommended to take, in the meantime, the Terminus Hotel, a first-class house, 10 to 20 frs., opposite station. Behind it is the *H. de la Gare, a clean and excellent second-class house, where the pension price is from 8 to 9 frs., which includes tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, both with wine. It is about 300 yards to the left of the station. Near the H. de la Gare are the similar hotels : the St. Louis : the H. Deux Mondes : the H. Berne : and the Paris, a hotel garni and Restaurant. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare, No. 64, is the Hotel National, whose pension price is from 9 to 12 frs. Near those hotels is a large cabstand : and besides, the tram to and from the port, by the Place Massena and the Casino, passes their doors every 10 minutes. Fare 2 sous. To the right of the station is the H. P. du iMidi, 7 to 12 frs., W 1 fr. A short way S. from the Midi, in a quiet and pleasant part of Nice, are the *H. Riche-Mont, 7 to 12 frs., W 1 fr. : opposite it the Russie, 8 to 12 frs., service 1 fr. per week. Near them, in the R. St. Etienne, the *H. Raissan, 9 to 14 fi\s., W 1 fr. For commercial gentlemen the best house is the *H6tel des Etrangers, 9 to 10 frs., in the Rue Pont Neuf. At 43 Rue Gioffredo, near the Temple Protestant, is the H. et R. Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs., ^vith wine, but not tea in the morning. Cafes. Banks. Post. Library. Churches. 09 W signifies a bottle of the cheapest "\^'ine, Cafes and Bestaurants. — The best are in and near the Place Massena Rumpelmeyer's is to the Avest of H. lies Britanniques. Opposite station is the restaurant of the Terminus Hotel. Banks. — La Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The most con- venient bank for strangers is the Credit Lyonnais, where money is changed and letters of credit cashed on the fairest terms. Those who deal with them may frequent during the whole season their well- supplied reading-room. It is near the Place Massena, No. 15 Avenue de la Gare. There are several private banks and money-changers in this neighbourhood. House Agents. — The Anglo-American Agency, Quai Massena ; C. Jougla, 55 Rue Gioffredo. Post Office. — In the Place de la Liberte, at the end of the first street N.E. from the P. Massena. Most of the clocks have two minute- hands, one for railway or Paris time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice time. The Public Library, with 50,000 volumes, is in the R. Francois de Paul. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 p.m. It contains a few anti- quities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea ; an excellent road leads up to it. Booksellers. — Galignani, 48 Quai St. Jean Baptiste. Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook and Son, 16 Quai Massena. Gaze and Son, Jardin Public, next the H, des Anglais. Druggists. — The best are in the principal streets, but the only pharmacy owned and directed by a qualified Englishman is Mr. NichoU's, No. 3 Quai Massena, near Cook's office. Confectioneries and Perfumeries. — Of the confections the speciulite of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing 100 grammes, or 3^ oz., for 5 frs. the box. Assorted fruits in boxes cost 5 frs. the kilo. The most expensive of the glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2 lbs. 3^ oz.), strawberries 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs., with stones 5 frs. ; the latter has a more fruity taste. All the others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the kilo. The best shops are Guitton and Rudel, No. 23 Avenue de la Gare, and *Fea, No. 2 Place Massena, under the arcade. Rimmel's garden and j^erfume distillery are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon. Churches. — Temple fivangelique in Rue Gioffredo ; Russian Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station ; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp ; 70 Nice. Cabs. Dilir/enc^s. Climate. German Church, Rue Adelaide ; American Episcopalian Church, 21 Boul. Victor Hugo. Trinity Church, Rue de France ; St. ^Michael's, Rue St. Michael ; Carabacel Episcopal Church, at east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church, 18 Boulevard Victor Hugo. Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly. Coach hire. — A carriage Avith coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where carriages and riding - horses can be had per day or per month. Cabs. — Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and seat for 2, the course 75 c. ; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2 frs. ; seats for 4, 2\ frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course IJ fr. ; the hour, 31 frs. Each portmanteau 25 c. As the Nice cab tariff is so complicated, I consider the better plan to be to refer to the official statement given in "Xice-Bijou" sold at all the bookshops and kiosks, 6 sous. It contains also the authorised prices of the drives to places in the neighbourhood. For St. Jean a coach stai'ts from Boul. Pont Xeuf, opposite the left side of the statue to Masseua. Diligences. — From the office, Xo. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start daily : — Coach to St. ^lartin Lantosque, or Vesubie, 3289 feet above the sea, and 39 m. X. from Xice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (p. 80). From the office. Place St. Francois, start : — Coach to Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Teuda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 1 6 frs. , time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N. from Xice. Fare 9 frs., time 11 hrs. (p. 82). From Hotel Chapeau Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, and 15 m. X. from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d'Or, Rue de r Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1^ fr., time 2 hrs., 10^ m. N. up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of Trinite-Victor, 5| m. X., pop. 1300 ; Drap, on both sides of the Paillon ; and then on a hill to the left, 2^ hrs. distant by a path, the ruins of the village Chateauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of water. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Climate. — " If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and Cannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Xice a trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the mountains. M. Teysseii-e has preserved and published records of twenty years' meteorological observations taken at Xice with instru- ments placed outside his v\'indow, on a fourth floor facing the north - north-east. His mean results for the twenty years are as follow ; to 1 Nice. Canne 1 March . . . 51 -S 51 ! April . . . . 5S-1 55-5 Vallons. Old Town. 71 which, for the sake of comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes : — Mean Temperature. Nice. Cannes. I Nice. Cannes. November . 53-8 52-6 January . . 47-1 48 December . 48-5 46-3 | Februarj- . 462 4S-8 The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes." — Health Resorts, by M. Marcet, M. D. Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with pre- cipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The gi'eat vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream opening from the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which high up becomes so narrow and so choked ^\'ith troublesome brambles as to be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made. See map, page 85. The Mantega Yallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantega (see plan), has gi-eat walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer con- glomerate is quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, Avhich, mixed with lime, makes excellent mortar. The city of Kice consists of three distinct parts : \st, the new or fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and " pensions " ; 2iul, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and running up the sides of the Chateau hill, which separates it from, Zrd, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour. During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. 72 Nice. Chateau. Cemetery. In winter the population nia}^ be estimated at 99,000, whereas in summer it is only about 88,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluc- tuating population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled together between the Paillon and the Chateau hill. The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the English in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautiful terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach of the Bale des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan, whence it will be continued other 3 m. W. to the mouth of the river Yar, near the Racecourse. Over the Port rises the Castlehill 315 ft., with its cascade, command- ing from the platform the most charming views. To the E. are the peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort Mont- alban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings. To the N. is Mont Chauve ; to the E. the roofs of Nice ; and in the distance the Eoche-Blanche (p. 61), the peninsula of Antibes, and the Esterels. This fortress, founded by the early Phoenician colonists, and destroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razed to the ground by Marechal Berwick in 1706, by order of Louis XIY. Now it has become the great park of Nice. A round tower that still remains, over the Hotel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was prob- ably added to the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill (see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is the monument to the " Victimes de I'lncendie du Theatre, 23rd March 1881." Towards the N.E. corner is the grave of Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th March 1852, with stone placed b}' her son. General Garibaldi. In the second row, down from the Pyramid, and opposite it, is the narrow grave, crushed between the tombs of M. Masse and L. Wallich, in which repose the remains of Leon Gambetta and his mother. At the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery, and at the other end that of the Israelites. Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurana to the Port, grew, till 1884, the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent. On the 15th August 1543, she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked the allied French and Turkish forces com- manded by Francois de Bourbon and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the standard -bearer, and i)ut the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port before its enlargement. In a .3 Riissian Memorial Chapel. 73 small street ramifying from the Rue Segurana is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in 1510. At the east end of the R. de la Prefecture, last street left, No. 15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in fresco by Carlone. It is now the " Ecole Professionnelle. " This is also the street of the jewellers. Paganini died (1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Prefecture. The jambs and lintels of the doorway are sculptured. The Cathedral and the other churches in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and variously coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non- Romauist church erected in Nice was the chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too small the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a coast of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne, in an orange grove, is the Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of ascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in which the Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865, and in which the dying Czarevitch placed the hand of his affianced bride, the Princess Dagmar, into that of his brother before breathing his last. The interior is covered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blue ground. The princi})al thoroughfares in Nice are the Place ^lassena and the handsome broad street the "Avenue de la Gare," extending in a straight line northward from the ' ' Place " to the station. Next in importance are the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste, In the above are all the best shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the pro\4sion kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confec- tioners, and dressmakers. At the east end of the Rue de France is the Croix de Marbre, a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected in 1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V., Frances L, and Paul III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two potentates through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite commemorates the visits of Pio YII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near this is Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Evangelique, the second Protestant church built in Nice. On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in an animated posture, of Andre Massena, prince of Essling and marshal of France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon to stop the advance of Wellington in 74 Nice. Carahacel. Cimiez. Purtugal, and was commissioned "to drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea." But the wary strategy and imperturb- able firmness of the British general proved resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but it is not so fashionable as the " Jardin Public," farther down at the mouth of the river, Avhere the band plays in the afternoons. It is planted with magnolias, acacias, Japan medlars, gum, cork, camphor, and pepper ti-ees. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery, p. 72. All the side sti-eets which ramify eastward fi'om the Avenue de la Gare lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice, and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above Carabacel, and about 2 m. distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is Cimiez (430 ft. above the sea), another favoured spot, fre- quented principally by nervous invalids requiring a sedative climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman city Ceraenelium, of which all that remains are the ruins of an amphitheatre 210 ft. long by 175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince de Galles are artistic ruins composed of ancient material gathered in this neighbourhood. They stand in the spacious grounds of the superb Villa Val Rose, which in shape resembles a Xoah's ark. The first road right from the amphitheatre leads to a Franciscan convent, built in 1543 on the site of a temple to Diana. The altar pieces of the two chapels to the right and left of the high altar were painted by Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only artist of eminence Nice has produced. They represent respectively a Crucifixion and a Dead Christ. The cemetery contains some beautiful tombstones. The most prominent is the marble monument to a young lady, died in 1868. In the centre of the "Place," on a spiral marble column, is a crucifix with a winged J. C. Above is a pelican feeding its young, a favourite Christian symbol of charity during the Middle Ages. A path in the corner of the "Place" leads down to St. Pons. At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department ; and separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in the market for food. In this " Place " is a statue of Garibaldi. The electric tram supplies a very pleasant, easy, and cheap ex- cursion of about 3^ m. and an ascent of about 450 ft. to the summit St. Jean. Val-Obscur. 75 of Cimiez, where are the terminus of the tram and the Casino and Zoological Gardens. Entrance to gardens 1 fr., and Casino situated in the gardens also 1 fr. From the garden there is an excellent view of the Observatory (p. 77) and of Mont Chauve with its bald head (p. 76). The tram line commences at the beginning of the Rue de I'Hotel des Postes, where it ramifies from the Avenue de la Gare and extends the whole length of the street, traversing the Place de la Liberte, where it passes the Post and Telegi-aph Ofiice, then the Rue Scaliero ^\ith the Hospice of the toAvn. From the R. Scaliero it enters the Boulevard Carabacel, passing Kraft's G. Hotel de Nice, and the Cara- bacel Hotel, both in warm sheltered nooks. From this it ascends the beautiful and well-constructed Boulevard Cimiez, in M-hich is the Riviera Palace Hotel ; then the Avenue Victoria, Avhich passes the ruins of the Amphitheatre by the west side. From the ruins a short branch road leads left to the G. Hotel de Cimiez, inhabited by the Queen in April 1895. The line does not pass the Franciscan convent. To visit it, take the first road right from the amphitheatre. In the " Place " of the convent are two very fine ilexes, p. 74. From the Amphitheatre the line ascends nearly a mile to its terminus with the Zoological Gardens, Casino and Restaurant. There are two very fine tigers. The best of the drives from Xice is to Menton, 20 m. E., either by the high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, passing above Monaco, or by the beautiful new road, which seldom rises much above the beach and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. Above the Pont Xeuf, near the Place St. Fran9ois, omnibuses (without fixed time) start for Villefranche, ^ fr. ; St. Jean, 15 sous ; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. For these places see pp. 84 and 85. In the village of St. Jean is a country inn, the H. Victoria, where bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8J frs. And at Beaulieu, close to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9J to 12 frs. Those who go from Xice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with 2 horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt. Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1^ horn-. Nice to the Val-Obscur, 4 m. N. — Take tram from the Place Massena to St. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the ViUa Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be 76 Villa Clery. St. Pons. St. Andre. followed, but as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards long, between cliffs of an earthy conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high, and 7 ft. apart at their narrowest point. By con- tinuing this path for a little distance past a house on the side of the hill, then crossing over by a path to the right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, wlience a road ascends to Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft. above the sea, or only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve. The Vallon des Fleurs ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive trees and its wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the valley is about 10 minutes' walk from the St. jMaurice terminus of the tram. A path leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads round by the head of other two vallons to the Cimiez road, which it joins nearly opposite to the Observatory, only a little higher up the valley of the Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. A much frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. Andre, about 3| m. X. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon St. Andre. A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, 5 frs. ; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. ; ^ hour's stay allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, 25 frs. "When about 1^ m. up the Paillon there is a large gate which gives access to the orchard of the Villa Clery, containing some orange trees above 100 years old, yet in the whole plantation there is not one well-developed specimen. The oranges are sold at from 4^ to 6 frs. the 100, and packed and despatched to order. Almost opposite, on the east side of the Paillon, are the more beautiful gardens and perfume distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the hill (430 ft.), above the Clery orchard, is seen the monastery of Cimiez, built in 1543 after the original house, which stood near the Croix de ]\Iarbre, had been destroyed by the Turks. The next large edifice passed on the west bank is the monastery of St. Pons, built in 775 by St. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the spot where the Roman senator St. Pontius suff'ered martyrdom. The emperor is said to have spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In 890 it was destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, bishop of Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by whicli Nice was annexed to the house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part Avhere the stream St. Andre unites with the Paillon, 3 m. from the Place Massena, is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay 4 frs. per day, second 3 frs. A little higher up the stream are the village, pop. 660, and (on a hill) the chateau of St. Ohservatory. Digne to Nice. 77 Andre. The chateau is a plain house with a small chapel at the west end, fronted by a terrace built by the brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. Part is occupied by a school and part is let. The chapel is now the parish church. At the east end is a small petrifying spring. From the chateau an avenue of ill-conditioned cypresses (the best have been cut down) leads to the Grotte St. Andre. Fee, h fr. each. It is a natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high, through the limestone rock, under which flows the stream St. Andre, dammed up at the outer end to enable the man to take visitors through it in a boat. Near it are a restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are sold. From the "Grotte" up to the 8th kilometre stone the ravine be- comes so narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit the cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. Those in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, a village perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. Andre. To the Ohservatory, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the expense of M. BischofFsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of the Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and ascend by the Corniche road. If on foot, on arri\dng at a well beside a house, ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the various buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on the west side of the mountain, is the largest of the edifices, a handsome house 228 ft. long and 46 broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end dwelling-houses. Grasse to Nice by railway, p. 59. Digne to Nice by St. Andre and Puget-Theniers. 94J miles S.E. See map p. 63. For Digne, see p. 63. Digne to St. Andre 27^ m. E. by rail. St. Andre to Puget-Theniers 30 m. by coach till this part of the line is opened. Puget-Theniers to Nice 37 m. S.E. by rail. Most of the villages are untidy and un- attractive though frequently in picturesque situations. The houses are generally dismal and the streets narrow and badly paved. The principal towns and villages are Gaubert 3| m. where the train traverses a tunnel, St. Jurson 5 m., Mezel on the Asse with curious dams 8 m., Chaudon- Norante 15 m., station for the villages Norante close to it and for Chaudon to the N.E., Barreme 20 m., 2250 ft. above the sea. H. Abbes. At the station buses await passengers for the town situated on the right bank of the Asse, and coach for Castellaue 15^ m. S.E. (p. 62). H. Levant, pop. 1800, beautifully situated on the Yerdon. 78 Guillau7iies. Puget-Theniers. On tlie way the coach passes through Senez, 3| m. from Barreme, pop. 600, with Romanesque cathedral built 1130-1242. The train having passed through Gevaudan 23 m. and Moriez 25| m. arrives at St. Andre-de-Meouilles 27 J m. S.E. from Digne, 2980 ft. Inn : H. Trotabas. Till the completion of the rail between St. Andre and Puget-Theniers passengers from Digne to Nice spend the night here and next morning take the diligence to Puget-Theniers. A coach starts also from St. Andre to Colmars, 20 m. up the valley of the Verdon and 1150 ft. higher than St. Andre. On the way, 7^ m., it passes Thorame-Haut with an inn. The church has some 16th cent, glass. Colmars is an unattractive village with an inn. Coach between Colmars and Alios 8 m. JST. For Alios see below. From St. Andre the road to Puget-Theniers ascends the Verdon valley to the Colle St. Michel, 5940 ft. , which the road crosses, but a tunnel is being bored for the rail. From the Colle the road descends the valley of the Vaire, a tributary of the Var, by the village of Le Fugeret, 15 m. from Puget-Theniers, to Annot 13 m. from Puget, situ- ated in a wide valley at the confluence of the Vaire A\ith the Gallange. Inns: H. Phillip; H. Vei'dolin. Pop. 1100. The coach halts here and passengers breakfast at the H. Phillip. From Annot, the coach having traversed a tunnel by the side of the Vaire, arrives at the village of St. Benoit with the ruins of a priory. A little below this the A^aire enters the Var, where the Var makes a sharp bend from a southerly course to an easterly one. From St. Benoit 12 m. N. up the Var is Guillaumes, 2697 ft., pop. 1300 ; H. Darie Robert ; the chief village in the iipper valley of the Var. From Guillaumes a mountain road leads N.E. to the upper valley of the Tinee by the Col de Grouse, 8316 ft., and the mining village of Pignes. The easiest Avay to get to Guillaumes from Nice is by the bus from Puget-Theniers. Above Guillaumes the Var bends to the N.W. leading to the last and highest village on the river, Entraunes, enclosed on every side by high and steep mountain ranges. A nuile tract leads west from Entraunes by the Col Champs de Colmars to Colmars, pop. 900, a fortified town with two inns, on the confluence of the Verdon with the Sence. 5 m. farther up the river is Alios, 4839 ft., pop. 1200, with a tolerable inn. One hour E. from Alios by the hamlet Champ Richard is the almost circular lake Alios, 7346 ft. above the sea, nearly 4 miles in circumference, amidst rich ground for the botanist, at the foot of Mt. Pela, 8600 ft., in one of the wildest and most sequestered spots in the Alps. Nearly 4 miles W. from Puget-Theniers is Entrevaux, pop. 1500, with two inns. The Var makes here the rock a peninsula, on which this walled and fortified town is built. Immediately behind the town rises a steep mountain fortified from the base to the summit. 37 m. N.W. from Nice is Puget-Theniers station at some distance from the town. Puget-Theniers on the Var at its confluence Avith the Roudoule, 1476 ft., pop. 1600. H. Laugery : H. Croix de Malte. Coach three times daily to Guillaumes, 19 m. N. in the upper valley of the Var. Thirty miles from Nice is Touet station at a little distance from tlie picturesquely situated village of Touet-de-Bueil ; *H. Latty ; ueai- a St. Sauveur. Nice to Cuneo. 79 fine waterfall. After Touet the train passes Villars du Var 26 m. from ;N^ice, pop. 900 ; then the station for Malaussene on the S. side of the rail and for ]\lassein on the north. Eighteen miles from Nice is La Tinee at the eonfluence of the river Tinee with the Var. Unlike the Yar, whose general course is serpentine, the Tinee flows for many miles in a nearly straight channel. Coach thrice daily to St. Sauveur iZh m., fare 2 frs., up the beautiful valley of the Tinee. The first village of any importance is Cians or Clanzo, 2293 ft., standing above the opening of a lateral valley through which a torrent descends from Mt. Tournairet, 6805 ft. Next comes the village of ]\Iaira. A little beyond it to the N.E. is the opening of a lateral valley called Boulinetta leading to the rich iron mines of Valdeblore, 3410 ft. On the spur of the mountain between the river Tinee and the Boulinetta torrent stands Rimplas, 3366 ft., in a mar- vellous mountain position commanding a gi-and view. A few miles more up the valley of the Tinee is St. Sauveur, 1709 ft., with an inn, one of the best halting-places in this district ; reached in about 5 hrs. by diligence from Tinee station, 2 frs. Near the village are hot and cold sulphurous springs. Opposite the village the A^allone di Mionieira leads up to Mt. Meunier, 9318 ft. 4 m. above St. Sauveur the Yallon de Molieres opens to the E. and leads to Yaldieri, pp. 81, 80. Nearly 8 miles farther up the Tinee is Isola, 2986 ft., at the junction of the Tinee valley with the Yallon de Castiglione, Avhich leads by the Col di Santa Anna to the village of Yinadio. The Baths are nearly 3 hrs. from the village up a narrow glen 4183 ft. above the sea. The climate is cold and comfortless, excepting in the finest weather. 12 m. beyond Isola is the last village in the Tinee valley, San Stefano, 3848 ft. Eight miles from Nice is Colomars station, where the Grasse line meets the Puget-Theniers line. The Nice station of this railway is at the north end of the Avenue Malaussena — that avenue, the north con- tinuation of the Avenue de la Gare. This is the station also for Grasse, Draguignan, Gardanne, and Aix. See map, p. 63. Nice to St. Martin Lantosque and Cuneo. Maps pp. 63 and 1. Nice to St. Martin Lantosque (or Yesubie) 39 miles north chiefly by the side of the river A^esubie. Rail from the station in the Boule- vard Malaussena to the Plan-du-Yar station 16 m. from Nice, thence by the 8 a.m. or 2 p.m. coach to St. Martin Lantosque 23 m. N. The coach commences its journey up the course of the Yesubie in a most picturesque part of the river to the village of Duranus, pop. 1800, amidst lofty precipices. Then after traversing a tunnel of 88 yards, passing to the left, on a height, the village of Utelle, and on the road St. Jean-de-la-Riviere and the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), the coach arrives at the village of Lantosque, 30 m. from Nice ; H. Etrangers ; 1640 ft., pop. 2000. Beneath Lantosque the river flows in a deep channel between vertical walls of calcareous cliffs. On a tableland 765 ft. above Lantosque and ^ m. distant is La Bollene, charmingly situated amidst hills covered with chestnut trees. A little farther is Belvedere, 80 St, Martin Lantosque. Entraque. Valdieri. 2800 ft. ; H. France ; overlooking the valley of the Gordalasque. The coach next halts at Roquebillere, pop. 1800, on the Vesubie, 3^ m. from Lantosque, 33^ from Nice, and 1968 ft. above the sea. It is the station for the village^of Belvedere, pop. 1250, 755 ft. above Roquebillere. From Roquebillere the coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie. by the villages of Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to St. Martin Lantosque, or Vesubie, 39 m. from Nice, pop. 2000, and 3289 ft. above the sea ; at the junction of the Vesubie with the Saleses and the Borreon. Hotels. — In the "Place" Des Alpes Grande Bretagne and the Belle-Vue. Up the pleasant promenade is the Pension Anglo- Americaine. All 7 to 10 frs. Episcopal chapel. On the opposite hill, and 700 ft. higher, is the village of Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the surrounding valleys. The lower parts of the mountaius are covered with chestnut and cherry trees, and the higher with large tirs. Near St. Martin are the pleasantly situated baths of Berthemont, H. des Bains. From St. ]\Iartin commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the Vesubie and the Col di Finestra, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a fancied resemblance of a cleft in the jieak to a window. Mule and guide to Entraque, 22 frs. ; time, 8 hrs. One and a quarter mile up the Vesubie is the stone which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6^ m. farther the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. above the sea, and an inn over- crowded with pilgrims in middle of August. Many rare plants are found here, especially the remarkable Saxifraga florulenta, on the ridges of rock above the sanctuary. Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged peaks, and, in about another half-hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 ft., is attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and France. At Entraque is an inn from which starts a coach daily to the rail- way station of Borgo San Dalmazzo, 8 m. S. from Cuneo, and Cuneo is 55 m. S. from Turin. Entraque, about 2900 ft. above the sea, is 3 m. S. from the village of Valdieri, 2493 ft. above the sea, on the Entraque-Gesso at its junction with the Sabbione. A mule path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about 20 m. distant, time 7 to 8 hrs., by the Saleses, which it follows all the way to the Col de Moulieres, 6890 ft. A few miles farther northward it crosses also the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between two mountains, 8745 ft. and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It then descends by a long dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it turns eastwards to the river Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri, 4426 ft. above the sea. From the baths a carriage-road extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the village of Valdieri on the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10 m. N. from the baths, and 7i m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the picturesque valley of the Vermauagna. The coach then passes through the Borgo San Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-culti- vated plain at the junction of the Vermauagna with the Gesso. The train may be taken either at Roccavione 64 m. S. from Turin, or at Dalmazzo 63 m. S. from Turin. Not Dalmazzo di Tenda. The Baths of Valdieri. Geology. 3Iineral Waters. 81 A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. J\Iartin, whence it ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows the com-se of the Valletta to the baths. ' ' The Baths of Valdieri make excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western Alps. In every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to be found ; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavom*- able, the writer has usually obtained food and a bed such as a mountaineer need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being accessible at seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most other Alpine districts, this offers special attractions to the naturalist. Within a narrow range may be found a considerable number of very rare plants, several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. ' ' The geology is also interesting, and would jjrobably repay further examination. A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by highly- inclined and much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably include the entire series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous rocks, in some parts overlaid by nuramulitic deposits. "The accommodation in the hotel of the Valdieri Baths is not very good, although the charges are 9^ to 12 frs. per day. Among the min- eral waters are a sulphurous spring 157° Fahr. Another, also sulphur- ous, 95° Fahr., celebrated for its efticacy in ophthalmic complaints. Also a saline spring, having the property of a mild cathartic. ' ' On the rock, over which the thermal water trickles down, grows freely the plant t/lva labyrinthiformis, in whose gelatinous masses, 3 or 4 inches thick, are seen by aid of the microscope, minute insects thriving at a temperature of 135° Fahr. Large strips are taken off" and applied to the body, being found very useful for old wounds, etc. In the neighbourhood, near a small lake, is the Vallasco valley, celebrated for the beauty and rarity of its flora." — See The Western Alps, by John Ball. NICE to TURIN by the Tenda Tunnel, Limone and Ouneo. Maps, pp. 85 and 63. This is a most tedious drive, yet not so bad as if made from Venti- miglia, as the French diligences are cleaner and more comfortable than the Italian. The drive to be enjoyed must be taken from Cuneo or Limone in the coupe of one of the French diligences, which start from the H. Barra-di-Ferro in Cuneo. By this way there is veiy little crawling, but a brisk trot nearly all the way with beautiful views. I give here a sketch of the tedious route ; as those descending from Tenda are hurled past the villages too rapidly to do more than enjoy the ever-changing views. At Nice the office of the diligence is in the hotel in the Place St. Francois on the east or left side of the river. Nice to Tenda, 51 m. N. and 2675 ft. above Nice and the sea. Fare 9 and 7 frs., 10 to 11 hours. At Tenda the longest stoppage is made. Tenda to Cuneo by the tunnel and Limone is 29 miles : 7 frs : 7 hours. Tenda is 12 m. from Limone, and the highest part of the 82 Sospello. Tenda. road is at the high or Limoiie end of the tunnel, 4331 ft. above the sea or 1656 ft. above the village of Tenda. The diligences change horses at the Albergo de la Posta of Limone at the foot of the stairs leading up to the station. Passengers leaving the diligence for the train may have to wait some time ; but consult beforehand the Indicatore Ufficiale, 50 cents. Limone is 20 m. from Cuneo by train. Fare 1 fr. 65 to 3 fr. 65, time 1^ horn-. Nice to the village of Tenda. (Map, p. 63. ) Start from the Place St. Francois. The road ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the villages of Trinite- Victor, pop. 1300, and Drap, pop. 800, with a sulphurous spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it leaves the Paillon and crosses over to Escarfene on the Braus, 12 J m. N.E. from Nice, pop. 1500. About 1| m. farther is Touet, pop. 400, whence commences the tedious ascent of the Col di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tete Lavine on the S. and ^Mt. Yentabren on the N. The road now descends to Sospello, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an affluent of the Roya, 25i m. X.E. from Nice ; H. Carenio ; coach daily from the Menton railway station to and from Menton, 14 m. S. From Sospel the road ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft, whence passengers in this direction have their last view of the Mediterranean. The descent is now made through barren mountains to the valley of the Roya, leaving to the right Breil or Breglio, pop. 2580, H. Europe, and Italian custom-house, and entering the Roya valley at Giandola a little higher up the river than Breglio. Giandola is 39:^ m. from Nice, 1245 ft. at the base of lofty cliffs ; H. Etrangers. From Giandola the road ascends through a narrow defile of the river ; Avhich suddenly widening discloses Saorgio, pop. 1600, 400 ft. above the torrent, composed of parallel rows of dingy houses among almond and olive trees. On the top of the hill i? the castle of Malemort, destroyed by the French in 1792. After Saorgio the valley contracts towards Fontana ; French custom-house : H. Etrangers ; 43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. Between Fontana and St. Dalmazzo-di-Tenda, 5 m. N., is the finest part of the road ; where it traverses the deep, narrow ravines of la Gorge de Berghe and its continuation le Defile de Guadarena, between steep massive walls of igneous rocks, with here and there an opening some torrent has cut through the mass. " The botanist Avill remark with interest, among the saxifrages and other Alpine plants that have descended from the surrounding Alps, many species of warmer latitudes, especially the Cineraria JNIaritima, which, save in gardens, is seldom seen, except in the warmest situations on the shore of the Mediterra- nean. Between Fontana and Breglio is the almost only habitat of the curious plant, the Ballota spinosa." — Ball. Dalmazzo-di-Tenda, built on both sides of the road, has on the right side of the road and of the river a hydropathic establishment in what was formerly a Chartreuse monastery. 51 ra. N.E. from Nice, 31 m. N. from Ventimiglia, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12 m. S. from Limone, is the Aillage of Tenda, pop. 2000 ; Inns : H. Lanza ; H. National ; 2675 ft. above the sea, and 1656 ft below the tunnel ; situated on the Roya, at the base of a rock Limojie. Cuneo. Acqiii. 83 on which are the picturesque ruins of the castle of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her jealous and tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare plants are to be found on the rocks over the village. The village church (1476-1518) is a good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The tunnel, opened in 1882, lighted day and night, is 4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, 4331 ft. at the Limone end, 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The dili- gences traverse the part of the tunnel from the Tenda end to ^nthin a short distance of Limone, to which it descends by numerous bindings. Limone, 3668 ft. ; 63 m. N.E. from Xice and 17 m. S. by rail from Cuneo ; Ina : H. de la Poste near the station. This untidy village on the Yermanagna is situated among steep mountains, cultivated a great way up. The rail, after passing Robillante, Roccavione, and Borgo- San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo, 80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1725 ft., pop. 12,000 at the l7in ; Barra di Ferro ; situated at the confluence of the Stura with the Gesso, See South France, East-Half. The easiest way to go to Turin, Monte Viso, and the Waldensian valleys from Nice is to take the rail to Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and Cavallermaggiore. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the Santuario di Savona, a pilgi'image chui'ch with large hospice for poor devotees (p. 116). From Carru station, 41 m. X., a branch line extends 5h m. S. to Mondovi, pop. 17,000 on the Ellero. Inns : Croce di Malta ; Tre Limoni d'Oro. From Mondovi is A-isited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m. S., in the valley of the Corsaglia. 12 m. S.W. from Mondovi, and about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the Certosa di Val Pesio, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a hydropathic establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September. Pension 8 to 10 frs. It is well managed ; well situated for botanists, fishers and sketchers, and is a capital summer resort. Junction at the station of St. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, with the line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., traversing the picturesque country between St. Giuseppe and Acqui, where it jjasses doA^m the beautiful valley of the Bormida. Acqui, pop. 8000, on the Bormida, and 21 m. S. by rail from Alessandria. Hotels : Italia : Moro. The toA\Ti is partly on and partly round the Castello. On the other side of the river is the bathing establishment, a large building Avith abundant accommodation. The pension price per day is from 9 to 12 frs., including the use of the Avater, which, besides being drank, is employed both in water and in mud baths. The waters are sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and were known to the Romans under the name of the Aquse Statielae, yet of their times nothing exists but the ruins of an aqueduct. The mud- baths of Acqui are remedies of considerable power. The patient re- mains immersed for about half an hour in the humus or mineralised mud of a temperature as hot as he can bear. Immediately after he receives a warm mineral water bath. " The therapeutic influence of 84 Villefranche. Beaulieu. St. Jean. this application is most evident in chronic articular enlargements, rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, intractable cases of secondary syphilis, and rheumatism." — Dr. Mad den's Health Resorts. ^^^T'^J±^^ Continued from Nice. Map, p. 85. ^l^^J^^ MILES FROM ^' ^ MILES TO 142+ 124 ^ VILLEFRANCHE, pop. 5100. Hotel de I'Univers. 2 m. ^ E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow bay, 2 m. long, are the fortress and port of Villefranche, founded in the 13th cent, by Charles IL, king of Naples. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Yieux at Nice, also by rail. Pleasant boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St. John and the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of Cimiez and Carabacel. The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the little pier on the peniusula of St. Jean, 1 fr. each person. From Villefranche commences the splendid Road to Monaco, 8 m. long and 18 ft. mde, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This most enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. from Villefranche by rail, or If by road, is — r^ BEAULIEU, famed for its large olive trees. Close by the ^^ station are the H. Metropole, and the H. des Anglais, 12 to 20 frs., W 2 frs. Near them the H. Beaulieu. High up on the side of the hill is La Bastide, the two-story villa of the Marquis of Salisbury. A turret rises from one of the corners. Near the church on the Monaco road is the Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a bouillabaisse lunch can be had. In the creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is a place conveniently situated between Nice and Monte Carlo in one of the more sheltered nooks of the Riviera. It is pro- tected on the north by a range of gigantic cliffs (with patches of strata of reddish sandstone), the edges of which are fringed with trees ; while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base and struggle as far as they can up the fissures in the rocks. On the plain are orchards of orange and lemon trees and nursery gardens. Trees and tall shrubs hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny creeks and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long ledges of marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep blue water, carpeted in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the Posidonia Caulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of the Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thro\ni up at various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree evaporation. ST. JEAN. A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads from Beaulieu round by the east edge of the peninsula to the Port of DITERR-AN THE CORNICHE ROAD NICE TO MENTON ^s-H,.^,„ MEDITEBRANEjIN S E Jl fT Peninsula of St. Jean. Petite Afrique. 85 St. Jean. The real carriage-road commences at the railway bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to St. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The continuation of this road past the chapel extends to the lighthouse, passing the signal- tower to the right. The port of St. Jean is used principally by fishing - boats. The busiest time of the fishermen is in February, ^March, and April, during the tunny fishing season. At the head of the pier is the quaint little inn, the Hotel Victoria, 8^ frs. per day ; near it the H. Bouillabaisse. If notice be given a boat will wait for passengers and luggage at Beaulieu. Boat fare, 2 frs. for all. From the Boulevard Pont Neuf an omnibus leaves Kice for St. Jean, and stops within a few yards of the inn. St. Jean makes a very pleasant residence for artists and naturalists. The village is situated among creeks, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most fertile part of the peninsula of St. Hospice. Beyond, on the highest point of the peninsula, is a round tower, the remains of the fortifications razed by the duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient crumbling masonry around belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, whence they were driven in the 10th cent. Below, towards the point, are a cemetery, a church, 11th cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and a battery. At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the light- house (second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at a distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed and is of the first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid liim in a grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula. EZE. The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and Eze, the next station 2 m. distant by road from Beaulieu, but only 1^ by rail. The steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Eoux are so exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has been called the Petite Afrique. Cape Eoux itself, the abrupt termination of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would tumble over into the sea, to which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to pass through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of Cape Eoux is the equally sheltered bay, the Mer d'Eze, backed by a phalanx of 86 Eze. Monaco. lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. high) of one of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is the nearly deserted village of Eze, pop. 560, with the ruins of its castle founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, recently restored, built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence the name Eza or Eze is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the castle, under the remains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine landscape displays itself, while inland is seen the Pass or highest part (1750 ft.) of the Corniche road, which here crosses the ridge tenninated by Mt. Roux. At the Pass are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze commences near the station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed to the sun, and throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through plantations of firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent requires, doing it leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the Corniche road. Beyond Eze is the station for La Turbie, whence a steep, stony bridle-path of 3 m. leads up to the village (p. 93). Monaco Station, 100 minutes from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 24 from Menton. Porters of the Condamine hotels await passengers. Monaco time 20 minutes be- fore Paris. Luggage by through train for Monte Carlo is examined at this station. Bus at station for Monaco. The road descending from the front of the station leads into La Condamine, with less expensive hotels than in Monte Carlo. From La Condamine (with face to the sea) the road to the left ascends to Monte Carlo, and to the right to Monaco. A new and very beautiful road to the left of the station ascends to the highest part of Monte Carlo, winding always to the right and overlooking the narrow valley of St. Devote, which it crosses by a fine bridge of one arch and enters the Boulevard du Nord ; where are situate the first-class hotels Windsor : Prince des Galles : and Victoria. Above the Victoria is the Hotel Splendide, and a few yards higher, in France, the Episcopal chapel. The Boul. du Xord descends a little from the Victoria, then turns to the left and soon reaches the Bank Credit Lyonnais, and the railway station to La Turbie (p. 93). For Monte Carlo alight at next station, \^ m. farther ; where the buses of the ^lonte Carlo hotels await passengers. City of Monaco 197 ft. above sea. On reaching Monaco, the Chateau is found on one side of the "Place" and on the other the commencement of the streets. The direct way to the Cathedral and gardens is by the Rue du Tribunal, commencing Monaco. Princes. Gambling Establishments 87 under the arch, opposite the Chateau. The lane, Ruelle St. Barbe, leads to them also by the top of the cliffs. The French Revolution, which caused such havoc, brought great disaster upon Honore III., prince of Monaco — his subjects, following the example of their neighbours, rebelled against him, his palace, then full of costly art treasures, was plundered, his valuable property in France confiscated, and by a mere accident he himself escaped the guillotine. On the 2nd of February 1861 Prince Charles III., father of the present prince, in need of funds and deeming concession the best policy, sold to France Menton and Roquebnme for £160,000, the only part of his territory which yielded a revenue, ^yhat remained was then little better than a strip of bare rocks and arid stony ground, extending from the cemetery eastward to the brook St. Roman, 3^ m. long, with a Andth at its broadest part of one mile, embracing altogether an area of 8 square miles. The population, then barely 4000, is now 20,000, distributed among the four centres or towns — Monaco 4500, La Con- damine 5500, Monte Carlo 4500, and Les Moulins 5500. They are all connected, excepting Monaco, which stands on a rock by itself 200 ft. above the sea, on the site where it is supposed the Greeks erected a temple to Hercules Monoecus, or Hercules of the solitary house. The reigning prince, Albert I., was born on the 13th November 1848. In 1869 he married Lady Mary Douglas Hamilton, was divorced by the Pope in 1880, succeeded his father 10th September 1889, and in October 1889 married a widow, daughter of a German banker, Mr. Heine. The son. Prince Louis, was born 12th July 1870. The first bishop of Monaco was Mgr. Theuret, appointed in 1879, for until the arrival of Monsieur Francois Blanc in 1860 Prince Charles III. had no funds to spare for bishops. But after the gambling-tables had brought him a flood of gold, he not only got a bishop, but demolished the small 13th cent. Grimaldi church, and built on its site the present imposing edifice, refurnished the palace, cut costly roads through the cliffs, spanned with bold arches the deep valleys, covered the arid mountain slopes with olive, orange, and lemon tree groves, studded the whole territory with sumptuous hotels and pleasant villas in luxurious gardens, and, best of all, abolished conscription and taxes. The first gambling establishment was opened on the 14th October 1856 by MM. Langlois and Aubert, with a lease of 30 years from Charles III. and a capital of £100,000. The house was in the Place du Chateau, immediately opposite the palace. The playing hours were from 12 to 5 P.M. In 1857 they were succeeded by a new company, who in that same year sold out in favour of M. Duval ; who in turn was succeeded S8 Monaco. The Palace. by M^I. Lefevre, Griois, and Jagot in 1858, with a neAv lease of 30 years from the prince. On the 13th of May 1858, in the midst of a dehige of rain, the present prince, then 10 years old, laid the founda- tion stone of the Casino on Monte Carlo. One morning, -while the building was slowly progi-essing, M. Blanc called on the proprietors, who were in difficulties, and offered them £68,000 for their rights and property. "I shall give you," he said, "three hours to consider the matter, for I return to Nice in the afternoon. In the meantime I am going to breakfast and to take a walk, and shall be back at half-past two." On that same day, 31st March 1860, the offer \vas accepted and the agreement signed. Francois Blanc, a native of Avignon, died seventeen years afterwards, leaving a fortune of £2, 400, 000. Monaco, the one clean city on the Mediterranean, is approached by well-made gently-sloping wide roads. At the landward or north end of the promontory is the palace or chateau, of which the rooms in the upper floor on the west side are sho^vn to the public on certain da3'-s. The earliest parts, including the crenellated toAvers, date from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle, the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the chapel, decorated with marble, gilding and mosaics. "Within the entrance is the Cour d'Honneur, decorated on the east side with friezes and designs in fresco hy Caravaggio, retouched in 1865, representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a horse- shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni, rei:)re- senting the feats of Hercules. The rooms shoAvn are to the left and right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To the left the first room is the usher's. The second is in blue satin hangings, with fm-niture in style Louis XV. ; some family portraits on the walls. 3. Reception-room in red ; handsome chimney-piece of one stone. Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III., prince of Monaco. Ceiling painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room AAith brown hangings and green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed pictures representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bed- room with red furniture ; style Louis XIII. Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the duke of York, brother of George III. ; red furniture and hangings ; family portraits, some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The bedroom in which the duke died, 1767 ; the walls hung with rich em- broidered scarlet satin ; ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in mosaic. Elegant bedstead, shut off by a richly gilt banister or low The Duke of York. La Condamine. 89 screen. 3. Sitting-room in pale yellow ; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. Furniture and walls covered with Avhite satin richly embroidered. On the morning of the 3rd September 1767, a messenger came to the palace to acquaint the prince, Honore III., of the arrival of a vessel bearing the royal standard of England, and having on board the duke of York, brother of George III. The duke had been seized ^ith illness while voyaging from Marseilles to Genoa, and he now sought hospi- tality from the prince of Monaco. This was instantly and lavishly accorded to him ; one of the finest rooms in the palace being placed at his disj)osal and everything done that could be devised to restore him to health. All was in vain, and after lingering for eleven days the duke died. A frigate was despatched from England to bring back his remains, and ^^ith it George III. sent a letter of thanks to the prince, %nth six hunters and a warm invitation to visit him at his court. He accepted the invitation, was the king's guest, and met with a most cordial reception. The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very pretty garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and flowers. Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden. At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, placed from north to south, 75 yards long, and at the transepts 32 jards. Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs, and a little way farther down the same street are the £glise de la Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hotel Dieu. On the face of the southern cliffs is the Jardin St. Martin, a very pretty promenade, with charming views. In the gardens is a small museum, open Sundays and Thursdays. It contains Monaco coins from 1644 to 1884. Five hundred yards west from the foot of the Monaco rock, on the road to A^illefranche, is the cemetery, whose wall forms the western limit of the principality. Among the many tombs there is a beautiful marble monument to Pierre and Modestine Neri, brother and sister. Ste. Devote and La Condamine. On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte Carlo is La Condamine, connected -v^-ith both by magnificent roads, and containing the port and the principal railway station. In the pictm-esque gully, spanned by a lofty one-arch bridge 148 ft. high and span 108 ft. wide, and the railway viaduct, is the parish church, on the spot where the body of St. Devote, a Eoman martyr, the patroness of Monaco, was stranded. On each side of the entrance to the ravine, steps cut in the rock lead up to Monte Carlo, The 90 Monte Carlo. Roulette. prices charged by the hotels in La Condamine are lower than those of Monte Carlo, but although sufficiently comfortable, are not so luxurious. Hotels in La Condamine : *H. de la Condamine : Beau Sejour : Beau Site : Angleterre : Etrangers ; all from 9 to 12 frs. The H. Monegasque, a humbler house, 8 frs. per day. Opposite it on the beach is the long low bathing-house, belonging to the Societe-de-Bain- de-]\[er. Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt termination of a stony ridge at Foncinana Point, rising from the sea. On the face of this point stands the Casino, a large shoA\y building erected in 1862 by Monsieur F. Blanc, and enlarged and redecorated in 1890 ; now the property of the " Societe-de-Bain-de-Mer " (Sea-Batn- Company, as they "modestly" style themselves), with a capital of a little less than a million pounds sterling, divided into 500 franc shares ; of which the value fluctuates between 1500 to 2200 francs. The Com- pany gives the prince a handsome income annually, and besides, main- tains his army, builds his bridges, and makes and mends his roads and viaducts. At the meeting of the shareholders on 30th April 1895, the total receipts during the year from the gambling tables were stated to be £764,000 ; which is £120,000 below the gain of the previous year, and £200,000 less than that of the season 1892-93. There is also a decline in the class of people who frequent the tables. The Casino is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Concerts from 2.30 to 4 and from 8.30 to 10. The entrance door opens into the first vestibule ; in which, to the left, is the office where visitors, having given their names and addresses, receive tickets of admission. To the right are the cloak- rooms. Second vestibule in two divisions. First division, left stair up to reading-rooms. In next, left, entrance to Gaming-Rooms. In front to the right, entrance to concert-rooms ; and a little farther, the ladies' lavatory — on the opposite side the gentlemen's. The concert- room, seated for about 1000, has an orchestra of about 80 first-«lass musicians. , '; In the first three gaming-rooms are eight tables for roulette. Thi fourth room is a narrow lobby. The fifth is a highly decorated double\ hall containing three tables for trente-et-quarente. Roulette is played -u-ith a circular tray revolving on a pivot, and a ball spinning round in the opposite direction. Wlien the tray ceases to rotate the ball drops into one of the numbered compartments round its edge, corresponding with the numbered squares on the table. Should the ball drop into the compartment of the tray corresponding to the number on the table upon which the player has placed his coin he receives 35 times his stake. When the ball di'ops into zero the bank wins all the stakes on numbers, but not any on zero, which like the nximbers counts 35 times the stake to the ^^'inner. When zero wins, any stakes in any of the "Chances Simples " are put (en prison), that is each in its respective small rectangle, till the next "jeu"; when should a number within its "Chance" turn up, the stake is returned. The smallest sum admitted at roulette is 5 frs. and the largest 6000 francs, or £240. THE ROULETTE TABLE. 91 1 Single Chan m PASSE. A stake laid on this square gains a sum equal to its amount should any number turn up from 19 to 36 in- clusive. 1 4 7 10 ^ 00 oi rso o ^ CO a> CO — • es Simples, frs. MANQUE. A stake on this square gains a sum eciual to its amount sliould any number turn up from 1 to 18 inclusive. ces or Chances aximum 6000 frs. PAIR. A stake on this square gains its amount should an even number turn up. 13 16 19 22 14 17 20 23 • — hances or Chanc maximum 6000 IMPAIR. A stake on this sc^uare gains its amount should an uneven num- ber turn up. 1 1 ||rii| 1 £ 2 ^ 2 cfq ^ 25 28 31 34 26 29 32 35 27 30 33 36 Single C A stake on this square A gains its am^^^ount sho^^uld a red y num- ber tmn up. E-The coin on two column? eacli of 12 numbers. 1 • B • A A— The coin on a column of 12 numbers. A stake on a number or on zero (as on 11) gains 85 times its value should that figure turn up. Should the ball drop into zero, the bank takes all the stakes on numbers, while those on zero win 35 times their value — maximum stake 6000 frs. The stakes on any of the "Chances Simples" or Single Chances are allowed to remain Avhen /zero turns up, but are placed '"'en prison" for the next "jeu" ; when V should any number of the particular single chance staked on turn up, the stake is returned. When a stake is j;o be put on two numbers, place the coin astride the bar between them, as between 11 and 12, and should either 11 or 12 turn up, the player wins 17 times his stake — maximum 360 frs. For a transverse column of 3 numbers place the coin astride the outside bar, as in 10, 11, 12° ; when should either 10, 11, or 12 turn up, the player wins 11 times his stake — maximum 560 frs. Four numbers, such as 1, 2, 4, 5, produce 8 times the stake (maximum stake 760 frs.) On a double transverse column, such as \^ \^ \^o, place Id 17 18 the coin on the outside bar, between the two columns. The gain is *5 times the stake — maximum 1200 frs. On a column of 12 numbers it is twice the stake. On a double column of 24 numbers, half the stake. 92 Trente-et-Quarante, Hotels of Monte Carlo, In Trente-et-Quarante the chances are determined by cards. The croupier deals first what is called the Noir row, counting the points as he lays them on the table, till a number is reached between 30 and 40. He then deals in the same way the second, or Red row ; when the pack wins whose number is nearest to 30. Stakes laid in the "Noir" department of the table depend on the first row winning; while those in the "Rouge " department depend on the second or red row winning. There are besides other two stakes, called Couleur and Inverse, dependent on the colour of the cards. The smallest sum admitted is 20 frs. and the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. All stakes must be divisible by 20. The winner receives an amount equal to his stake. The gambling-rooms are independent of the others, and no one need enter them nor partake of that dangerous amusement or rather vice. No credit is granted, and only French coin and bank-notes are taken. Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, and under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large gallery for pigeon-shooting. Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and footpaths ramify in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, and close along the coast to Nice. Hotels. — The first hotel in ]\Ionte Carlo for size, position, and sanitary arrangements is the *H6tel Metropole, on a terrace above the Monte Carlo station ; with 600 rooms from 6 frs. , dinner 8 frs. On the terrace are some shops and the bank of Messrs. Smith. On the opposite side of the Casino is the *H. de Paris, the oldest hotel in Monte Carlo, Avith 400 rooms from 10 frs., dinner 6 frs. A little below the Paris on the road down to La Condamine is the H. Monte Carlo in the house the late Mme. Blanc built for herself. Farther down the road are the H. Princes and H. Beau Rivage. Next the Paris is the Palais des Beaux Arts. Higher than the Paris, and like it and the Metropole most handsomely furnished, is the *Grand H. Continental, similar charges, pension from 12 frs. In the court of the Grand Hotel are the book-store and circulating library of Mr. A. Cima. Near the Grand Hotel are the H. Colonies : H. Russie : and H. Palmiers. Above the Grand Hotel are the H. des Anglais, room 6 to 10 frs., dinner 6 frs. : and H. Londres, room from 5 frs., dinner 5 frs. Higher up still are the H. Splendide, room from 5 frs., dinner 6 frs., immediately below the Ejjiscopal chapel which stands in France. West from the Hotel Anglais, and at the top of the highest and most beautiful road leading across the highest bridge to the station, without passing through La Condamine, are the Prince de Galles, room from 8 frs., dinner 8 frs. : H. Royal : H. "Windsor, pension 10 to 15 frs. All the hotels in Monte Carlo may be called first-class, at least with respect to prices, which are highest from the end of December to the middle of May, the only time when they make money. Up in France, by the side of the railway to La Turbie, is the H. Louvre, good and moderate. In Les Moulins, the eastern suburb of Monte Carlo, is the H. La Terrasse, 12 to 15 frs. Down below, fronting the sea and near the Monte Carlo station, is the H. Europe, 10 to 12 frs. La Turhie and Tram Station. 93 Banks. — The Credit Lyonnais up the hill next the Turbie station ; and Messrs. Smith on the terrace of the Metropole Hotel. Cahs. — The course within the principality 1^ fr. The hour 3 frs. Bus from the town of Monaco to the Casino ; whence another runs to the bridge across the brook St. Koman. In the hotels are the official tables of the distances and charges of the drives. About I hour's walk eastward from LesMoulins,by the main road, is the eastern limit of the principality, the valley of St. Roman, with some very large olive and locust trees. There are also large gi'oves of lemon trees, flowering and bearing fruit throughout the whole year. Of the bridge which crosses this little valley one half belongs to France, and the other half to Monaco. The lemons which ripen in summer are the juiciest, and keep longest. The best paper for wrapping them in is made from old tarry ropes. The most beautiful of all the excursions is to Turbie by the railway, and the next the walks from Turbie, which should never be taken by ladies alone. Straight up from the Casino is the station of the railway up to Turbie, a building with two low square towers. On one side is a Restam-ant and the office of the Credit Lyonnais, on the other the office of the Mont de Piete (Government PawTi-office) and the *H. Louvre, all in a line near each other on the French or north side of the road. The station is 232 ft. above the sea and the terminus at La Turbie 1575 ft., consequently the line rises 1343 ft. The length of the rail is a trifle over 1^ miles, which the locomotive does in 20 minutes. The steepest portion is up to the first halt, the Bordina plateau, commanding a complete view of the principality. Afterwards it passes through olive and pine tree woods in the ravine of the Moneghetti, and then by the steep sides of Mt. Justicier and many curves it reaches the Turbie terminus without ever having lost the view of the sea. A few feet above the station is the first-class hotel the H. Tour Cesar Augustus, by the side of the Roman tower of that name. The views are perfectly superb and obtained without labour. Fare : return tickets on holidays 3^ frs. and 2^ frs., other days 4 frs. 65c. and 3 frs. 45c. Time each way 20 minutes. At the Turbie station there are besides a second-class house, the H. National, and numerous restaurants and cafes. La Turbie, 1600 ft. above the sea, the ancient Troprea Augusti station on the Via Julia, is composed of narrow lanes, old houses and gateways close to the massive Roman tower ; which, after having stood 1700 years intact, was reduced to its present condition by Marechal de Villars. It was erected by Augustus as a trophy of his victories over the Alpine tribes, on the spot indicated in the itinerary of Antoninus as " Alpis Summa." In the Middle Ages it was used 94 Roquehrune. as a fortress. The ascent from La Condamine walking leisurely from the station takes a little more than one hour. The village is supjilied with excellent water from a spring to the IN" ."W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of Turbie, at the Colonna del Re, commemorating the pilgrimage of King Charles Felix, a road descends northwards to the village and sanctuary of Xotre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m. from Is ice, but scarcely 2 from La Turbie. The convent is "a very picturesque building ; a few gray aloes and some very old olive trees vary the uniformity of the rock ; while two or three large umbrella pines on the edge of the rift above the little \dllage of Laghetto form a good foregi'ound to the mountain range which closes the three sides of the valley. In the church, an image of the 16th century, com- memorating a far older image, has been solemnly chosen by the to^^^3 of Nice as its special patroness and protectress. It is Wsited by pilgiims, especially on Trinity Sunday, when numbers of crippled persons are brought hither in the hope of a miracle." — Augustus J. C. Hare's S.E. France. The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the long ridge farther east, leading ujd to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft, are the Chateau mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that from the Tete de Chien ; moreover, the ascent is by uninteresting stony paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie reservoir tmn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille ; but for the Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the Chateau mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les Moulins is Mt. Justicier, 911 ft., used as a quarry. At the west end of La Turbie are two roads ; the upper forms an excellent carriage -drive round the bold projecting cliff, the Tete de Chien, 1880 ft., which, although affording the most splendid view on the Riviera, the French Government has now forbidden the public to take, lest they should imperil the safety of a small fort on the top. The lower road is a stony bridle-path, which descends to the Turbie station, unfolding a succession of charming views in its windings. ^ MONTE CARLO station. Alight here for the Casino and ^^ the hotels on Monte Carlo. At station lift for Casino. v^J ROQUEBRUNE station, where the Corniche road from La w^ Turbie joins the low road from ^Menton. Roquebnine, pop. 1080, is 1500 ft. above the station and the sea, among great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. Fi"om the main Menton. Hotels. Pensions. 95 road a series of paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of lemon trees. The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better and more comfortable than those of the villages similarly situ- ated in the neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera and San Remo. Near the terrace is a small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the great castle built by the Lascaris of Yentimiglia, who ceded it to Charles Grimaldi in 1363. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the almost defaced sculpture representing a bishop's mitre, with the armorial bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This bishop is suj)posed to have been Augustine Grimaldi, coimcillor to Francis I. of France, who repaired this castle in 1528. A broken staircase leads up to the top. "No warrior's tread is echoed by their halls, no warder's challenge on the silence falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their toil, and pluck in orange groves the scented spoil." — Guido and Lita, by the Marquis of Lome. 699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34| m. from Cannes, 15^ m. from Nice, and h\ from Yentimiglia, is MENTON, pop. 9400, A\ith two stations. The principal one is up the Carei at the west end of the town, and the other at the Garavan behind the Grand Hotel at the east end of the town. Those going to any of the hotels in Garavan should not take their ticket for it with- out consulting their Indicateur (p. xiii) to see if their train stops at that station. Omnibuses from the hotels await passengers at both stations. A tram runs every \ houi' the entire length of the to-\\-n from west to east ; from the Avenue Ladola at the land end of Cape Martin, to the east end of the Garavan or Promenade St. Louis. For the new cave, in Avhich remarkable fossil remains have been found, continue the journey from the tram terminus to the Rocher de Barma Grande on the left, about 165 ft. beyond the first house. Adm. 1 fr. Omni- bus from the Place du Cap to Yentimiglia 6.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m., 1 fr. Hotels awl Pensions from west to east. Those with ^ prefixed have a front to the avenue Yictor Emmanuel, and those with ^ have a front to the avenue, and another to the sea. W signifies bottle of wine, and the price given that of the cheapest in the hotel. P. signifies pension or board and lodging. At the point of Cape Martin, 150 ft. above the sea, is the Cape Martin Hotel, overlooking the sea. Room from 5 frs., dinner 7 frs. Be- hind is a pine wood with qaiet pleasant walks, near it is the H. A'ictoria. On an eminence above the Gorbio road is the Alexandra Hotel, a Swedish house heated by hot-air pipes. By the side of the Borrigo the Hotel and Pension Saint Georges. 96 Menton. Hotels. Pensions. Banls. Near the Carei and the chapel of St. John the H. Splendide and H. Pare, the pension in both being from 10 to 15 frs., W 1^ fr. Up the Carei, towards the station, the Europe and Terminus Hotel, 8 to 12 frs., W 2 frs. At the mouth of the Carei, the 2 Paris, 12 to 15 frs., W 2 frs. Then follow Rumpelmeyer's shop, the best place to get a good cnp of tea : Gaze's Agency : and the H. des Colonies, room 2 to 4 frs., dinner 5 frs. In the busiest part of Menton, the Place Saint Roch, are the bank of the Credit Lyonnais ; the bank and office of the British Vice- Consul Mr. Charles Palmare ; the office of Mr. G. Willoughby with Cook's agency ; the office of the house-agents Amirante and Co. ; and the two principal Pharmacies. Immediately off the Place by a side street are the Banque Populaire, and the Post and Telegi'aph Office. Behind the Post are the H. Malte, and the Presbyterian chapel. Proceeding eastward from Cook's office we have the ^ H. Royal : the H. et P. ^Littoral, from 8 frs. : and the ^^Menton et Midi, room from 2| frs. , dinner 4 frs. Opposite the H. Menton is the Librairie Centrale, with a circulating library. From this, passing by the market, the Hdtel de Ville, the port, and the road up to the church, we enter the eastern or sheltered quarter, called the Garavan. The most westerly hotel is the Bretagne, 7 to 12 frs., and above it the *Italie, 9 to 14 frs., ^Y 2 frs On the same level, the Bellevue, 9 to 15 frs. Near the Bellevue is the Villa Helvetia, a convalescent home for ladies not younger than 18 nor older than 40, who are received for 20s. a week, which includes everything "except laundress and fire in bedroom." For conditions of admission apply to Barclay Bevan and Co., bankers, London Descending to the road skirting the beach, we have Christ Church : the *H. Anglais, 10 to 20 frs. : H. et P. St. Maria, 7^ to 12 frs. : and the Hotel Beau Rivage, 8 to 12 frs. , in which the Rev. Mr. Spurgeon died on Sunday evening the 31st January 1892. Then follow the Grand Hotel, P. 8 to 12 frs. : the Britannia : and the Pension Beau Site, from 9 frs. Between the Beau Rivage and tlie Grand Hotel is the road to the Garavan station, which is immediately behind the Grand Hotel. The ramification of this road leads to the Villa des Rosiers, where Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882. The road passes below the railway. Inland, on the east side of the Carei, in a warm nook, sheltered by high hills, is a gi'oup of large first-class hotels, behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the *H. des lies Bri- tanniques, 10 to 20 frs., and the H. National. In the neighbourhood are the hotels *Princes et Victoria, 10 to 15 frs. : Ambassadeurs, 9 to 18 frs. : Louvre, 9 to 13 frs. : Orient, room 5 to 10 frs., dinner 5 frs. : Protestant Churches. Cabs. Drives. 97 Malte, 7 to 10 frs., W 1 fr. : Venise, 9 to 13 frs. : Russie et Alleniagne, 8 to 14 frs., W 1 fr. 25c., frequented chiefly by Germans : Geneve, 9 to 12 frs. : H. Palmiers : Turin, 8 to 15 frs. The 8 fr. boarders in the H. Tiu-in as well as in H. de Malte can have rooms in the lower stories, only with a north exposure. At the IST. side of the H. Turin is a grove of lemon trees. H. Cosmopolitain, on an eminence beyond the station, 8 to 14 frs. In all, unless indicated, the cheapest wine is 2 frs. The pension price includes coffee, tea, or chocolate in the morning, brought to the bedrooms, and meat breakfast and dinner at the public table, and costs from 7 to 20 frs. The position of the room causes the difference of the prices in the same hoteh See foot of page 43. Protestant Churches. — Christ Church, adjoining the H. Paix ; St. John's, near the Pont Carei ; Presbyterian; near Post Office in R. Re- publique ; Vaudois, R. du Castellar ; German Church, R. Partouneaux. Cabs. — One-horse cab — the course, 1 fr. ; the hour, 2^ frs. Two- horse cab — the com-se, 1^ fr. ; the hour, 3^ frs. A one-horse cab for the whole day costs 20 frs. ; a two-horse cab, 25 frs. Donkey for the whole day, 5 frs. ; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs. the hour. Drive round Cap-Martin, with | hour rest, 8 frs. with one horse ; 10 frs. with two horses. Roquebrune, 8 frs. or 10 frs. there and back. Monte Carlo (but not return), 8 or 12 frs. There and back with 1^ hour rest, 12 or 15 frs. Gorbio, 12 frs. or 15 frs. with 1 hour rest. It is easy to walk from Gorbio to St. Agnes. Castellar, 12 frs. or 15 frs. with 1 hour rest. Castillon or Castiglione, 20 or 25 frs., with 1 hour rest. La Mortola, 10 or 15 frs., with h hour rest. Ventimiglia, 12 or 20 frs., 1 hour rest. (See maps, pp. 85 and 105.) Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St. Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built. The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in 8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the town to Cape Martin. Behind ]\Ienton rise mountains with gray limestone cliffs, intermingled with sombre olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The valleys are narrow, and most of the roads are steep and badly paved. The best walks and drives are those along the coast, extending from Cape Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous bone- caverns. The debris found in these caves, like the shell-banks in the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the food of the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they had employed. Four of the caves are above the railway, a little beyond 98 Menton. Cape Martin. St. Aggies. the viaduct, and two are below close to the beach. All are partly destroyed. The last discovered cave may still be visited, 1 fr. Some of the antiquities found in these caves are preserved in the museum in the Hotel de A^ille. Open on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. ^lenton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguish- ing feature of the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys watered by mountain streams. The average annual yield of the trees amounts to 30 million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the thousand. "Walks and Drives. Maps, pp. 85 and 105. Cape Martin, 2 m. AV. Tram every quarter-hour from Garavan, .^topping at the commencement of the low road, left hand, leading round the head of the Cape to Roquebrune railway station, by the barracks and the Roman sepulchre, consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From the monument a road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St. Honorat (p. 55). The road from this, leading westward, joins the carriage-way, wliich sweeps round the peninsula. Gorbio, 2 J hrs. or 5 m. X. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. above the sea. Take the tram from Garavan to Cape St. Martin, and alight at the road leading past the Alexandra Hotel, among lemon and olive trees. When about one hour from Gorbio this road becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop. 500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow, steep, and roughly paved ; the houses poor but substantial ; and the little church, built in 1683, is dedicated " Soli Deo." At the upper end of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends in less than 2 hrs. to St. Agnes. It is easily followed, and unfolds lovely views. St. Agnes, pop. 580, is 4 m. from j\Ienton and 2180 ft. above the sea, or 330 ft. below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle built in the 10th cent, by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path leads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive ] trospect. Annouciadc. Castellar. The Berceau. 99 From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road along the bank of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of execrable paths, to follow the right one. In descending it is not of much consequence, but in ascending the losing of the right path adds immensely to the fatigue. If the traveller in the descent should stray into the Vallon Chataigniers, the bed of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnes, commencing with Gorbio. To the Chestnut (Castagnin) valley or the valley of the Primroses. Ascend the Borrigo to its first affluent from the west, flowing down the valley des Chataigniers (as it is also called), which ascend. Some distance up the valley a path leads across to the road between St. Agnes and Menton, Convent and chapel of the Annonciade, 722 ft, above the sea, on the ridge between the Carei and the Borrigo, Walk up the right or west bank of the Carei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hotel Beau-Sejour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of the river, is seen the Hotel des lies Britanniques, The object of this easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings like the chapels of the ancient Greeks to their gods. Castellar, 1280 ft. above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road commences from the narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W, from the Place du Marche, Having passed a church it enters on the broad highway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with lemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream Menton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, is a poor village, consisting of thi-ee narrow dirty parallel streets lined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating at the N. end with the parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruins of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzan- tine emperors. From the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charming view\ Here the feast-day of the village is held on the 20th of January. From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the ascent of the Berceau, 3640 ft, above the sea, commanding a magnifi- cent prospect. Guide advisable. Pont St. Louis, Godart Garden, liamlets of Grimaldi and Ciotti. — At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France and Italy, a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge of one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are an 100 Menton. Godart Garden. Hanhury Grounds. Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet, now the Godart Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point, the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming. Grimaldi and Ciotti. The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hill leads to Grunaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and lemon trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and having passed up by the E. or left side of the A'allon St. Louis, ascends the hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), consisting of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. X.E. fi'om Ciotti is Mt. Belinda, 1837 ft. La Mortola, about 2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Yen- timiglia omnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of the Hanbury Grounds, consisting of 99 acres, sloping do-wn to the beach by terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the more sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with the house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the Pergola, a charming walk covered with trellis-work supported by massive pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants. Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882, An excellent view of the house and gi-ounds, as well as of Veutimiglia and Bordighera, is had from the stone seat a little below the ^lortola cross, 530 ft. above the sea, on the highest part of the road, a little to the AV, of Mortola. Admission 1 franc. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of the most favoured little valleys in the Riviera, with the village of Mortola on a rocky promon- tory nearly an hour's drive from Bordighera. Les Moulins, Monti, Castillon, and Sospello. The most important drive towards the interior is to Sospello, 14 m. N., on the road between Kice and Cuneo by the Col de Tenda (p. 82). Excellent carriage - road all the way, ascending by the western or railway station side of the Carei. In the lower part of the valley are large plantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the Monti. Hermit's Grotto. Sospello. 101 octroi are Les Moulins olive-oil mills, \Wtli four stages of water-wheels. 4 HI. farther up the valley of the Carei, on an eminence 1530 ft. above the sea and considerably above the stream, are the church and strag- gling -sdllage of Monti, pop. 250. The bridle-road that descends here to the Carei crosses over to Castellar, well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite the j^art of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen a small stone bridge on the other side of the Carei. This bridge crosses the stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-dell' Ora. About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window or cavity called the Hermit's Grotto. Over the entrance is an illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics, and by the side is another : christo LA FECE. BERXARDO l'abito. 1528. (Christ made it. Bernard in- habited it.) Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have re- tired through grief. At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility to take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques, hastened to join the banner of the count of Boulogne, his sovereign. This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride, Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation, resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. This she managed by concealing her sex under a man's dress, attired as an esquire. Unhapj^ily, during the journey she fell from her horse, and was forced to stop at an inn. Robert de Ferques was obliged, A\'ith broken heart, to follow the army, and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to his master the death of the courageous Jehanne.- The poor knight was so overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the count of Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost sacrificed to Him in war Avith the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard. From Monti the road begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after, 9^ m. from Menton, reaches the walled town of Castillon or Castiglione, with narrow crooked streets, pop. 400, on an eminence 2926 ft. above the sea, commanding an extensive view. "Most quaint of all the quaint towns in this wonderful district is Castiglione. Its steep streets twist so much that you can never see more than three doors before you ; the approaches to its dwellings are mere footings cut in the rock ; while 102 Climate of Menton. the storm-beaten campanile rises from yellow and orange - coloured houses, each Avith a painted image or ornamented roof coping." 4| m. beyond Castiglione is Sospello ; pop. 4000 ; H. Poste (p. 82), amidst olive trees in the valley of the Bevera. Climate. — Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder. ' ' A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land, must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the leading characteristics of the climate of this region — the Undercliff of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want bracing, renovating — for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter residence six years ago, because I was suflering from advanced pulmonary consump- tion, and after six winters passed in Menton I am now surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases. This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by rousing and im- proving the organic powers, and principally those of nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and thus brought to eat au'l sleep well, thoroughly digesting and assimilating food, the battle is half Avon ; and helping the physician to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of the Riviera."— Bennet's Winter Climates. " With all its vaimted security from biting winds, and its mountain shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at sun- down steals upon the mountains towards the sea. The mean tempera- ture of Xovember is 54', December 40°, February 49°, ilarcli 53^. When the air is still, a smnmer heat often prevails during the day, though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above 60°." — Wintering at Menton, by A. M. BroAvn. "The average rainfall is rather higher than at Nice, and the average number of days or nights during which it rains little or much is SO ; or 20 more than at Nice. The mean annual temperature is 60°, AA-ith a maximum in August of 80^', and a minimimi in January of 32°. The mean Avinter temperature is 52-25°, that of January 48°, of February 48°, March 52°, April 57°, May 63°, June 70°, July 75°. September 69°, October 64°, November 54°, and December 49°." — H. J. HardAvicke, M.D. i 1 ^4^ ITALIAN RIVIERA, &lC. Bt'OiaK Statute, 3Sla 6916 '1 Bt^ne ;. - ^s 1 . ^> ^ J u^ f ^^^1^ 3 j;<"^^!j"^**'' ITALIAN RIVIERA &c r 103 THE ITALIAN RIVIERA. Menton to G-enoa. By Yextimiglia, Bokdighera, Sax Remo, and Savoxa. The prices of seats in the express and direct trains (Convogli Diretti) are 10 % higher than what is given in the Italian time-tables. Most express trains take no third-class passengers, and those that do, take only snch as have to go at least 100 kilometres, 62^ miles. The third-class is often most inconveniently loaded Avith baskets, bundles, packages, bags, etc. ; as in Italy every pound weight registered is taxed. Never carry money, nor jewellery, nor articles of value in trunks. Procure as early as possible at any of the stations a copy of the Italian Official Time-tables, " L'Indicatore Ufficiale," ^ fr. There is also a 1 fr. edition. The day is divided into 24 hours, which avoids all confusion between day and night. >n5:! F??M See accompanying map, and map, p. 105. ^ENOA 100^ MENTOX. Through tickets to the towns in Italy sold at the w^ stations of Marseilles, Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo and Menton. The train, after traversing the Piano di Latte, arrives at -X' VEXTIMIGLIA, pop. 4500, on a hill above the mouth of the ^A Roya. All the trains halt here | of an hour, and luggage entering France or Italy is examined. At the Italian end of the custom-house room is a clock A\-ith the time of Central Europe, 55 minutes in advance of Paris time. At this end also is the ticket office. At the other or left end are a clock with Paris time, the bookstall, the passage to the trains, " Accesso ai ti'eni," the waiting-rooms, ''Sale d'Aspetto," the cloak-rooms, " Camerini di Toeletta," and the refreshment-rooms. Dinner -3 frs. without wine. Opposite the station are the H. Europe, and the H. Suisse et Terminus, and a few yards down the * H. Voyageurs ; room 2 to 4 frs., dinner 3 frs. with Adne. The wine of this neighbourhood is drank the first year, when it is dark coloured but palatable. The best money changers are here also. In the railway station they charge too high. The straight wide road fronting the station is the promenade of the town and leads to the sea or rather the marshes at the mouth of the Roya, where the river is crossed by a bridge ; whence a road ascends to the town. The proper way up is from the next, the stone bridge. 104 Ventimiglia. Bordighera. Hotels. Ventimiglia, jtop. 4500, is one of tlie best little Italian towns on hills along the Mediterranean. The steep streets and steeper lanes, often becoming flights of stairs, are tolerably clean, while the inhabit- ants do not wear that listless, hopeless expression commonly seen in other villages. The church St, Michele of Ventimiglia occupies a prominent position ; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the Post-Office, theatre, and the best cafe. The walk up by the Via Lascaris to the town-gate shows the best part of the town ; while the avenues in con- tinuation beyond it lead up to the best sites for views. On the way from the low tOAvn to Bordighera, a little before the road crosses the railway and the Xervia bridge, are, left hand, the scanty remains of a Roman theatre, which probably mark the sight of the ancient Albintemilium. Look through the grating of the gate. Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera, and between Mentou and Ventimiglia. Diligence twice daily from Ventimiglia to Cuneo by Tenda 62 miles. Tenda is 29 miles from Limone, the nearest railway station. This way is shorter and cheaper than from Xice b}' Sospello, Avhich, however, has better coaches, is not so much frequented by Italian labourers, and do the journey in less time ; because they remain at Tenda only one hour, whereas the Italian coaches from Ventimiglia remain from one to six hours. The road from Ventimiglia follows the Roya to beyond Tenda and traverses a small piece of French territory. The entire railway, however, will be in Italian territory. For views the Ventimiglia road is not equal to the road from Xice ; but the road itself is more interest- ing, as it passes through much picturesque scenery and ravines bounded by imposing cliffs. The road a few miles up the river passes to the left the village of Bevera situated at the confluence of the Bevera with the Roya — higher up is Airola and still higher Breglio, H. Union and Custom-house almost adjoining Giandola, where the French and Italian diligences meet and follow the same road all the way to Cuneo. See page 82, and map, page 63. 10 90Jt -^ BORDIGHERA, pop. 1800. The old town, the Bordighera -^ di sopra, composed of curious narrow streets and quaint gateways, is on the summit of the eminence rising from the Cape S. Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town. Hotels. — The ^*H. Angleterre, a first-class comfortable house in a garden, near the station, 9 to 12 frs., W 1^ fr. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. Rising from the Roman road, X. from the Angleterre and on the way up to the Mostaccini tower, is the i*H. Belvedere, 7 to 12 frs., W U fr. ; delightfully situated in a sheltered situation among olive trees. On the Roman road is the *G. H. Augst. Pension 10 to 15 frs. Also on the Roman road, the p2m "'"-.^"^"^ Station 'Capo Fine PuntaTdL Capo Nero MEDITERRANEAN S jiSKg^gi^— S\> REMO BORDIGHERA OSPEOALETTI and MENTON M EDI TERRA N E A N S E A Drives. Campo-Mosso. Ferinaldo. 105 H. London, 7 to 12 frs., W 1 fr. Overlooking the Moreno palm garden is the H. Bella Vista, 8 to 10 frs., W If fr. In the low towii, east from the H. Angleterre, are the Post-Office, the English bank, and the H. des lies Britanniques, with garden. H. Lozeron, with garden, 9 to 10 frs. Westward, the 2*H. Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs., W 1 fr. Farther west, at the mouth of the Crosia, is a Home for orphans of Italian Protestants, with chapel and industrial school, founded by an English lady. English physicians, a reading-room, free library and museimi built by an Englishman. The herbarium in the museum contains a valuable collection of the plants of the Riviera. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo passing through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of Venti- miglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high town. The feature of Bordighera is its plantations of palms, whose tufted tops wave above the lemon trees laden with pale yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The best palm groves are opposite the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio. Bordighera supplies Rome witlr palm-leaves for the ceremonies of Palm Sunday, and the Israelites in Germany and Holland for those of the feast of Tabernacles. To the Tower of Mostaccini, 1| hr. there and back, by the Strada Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This tower of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as an " avdsium " or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. Grand view. 2| m. W. from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the Xervia, 16 m. long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1^ to 2h m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m. from Bordighera. On this road, 1^ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m. from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, and the Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two 12th cent, churches. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The con- fessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce, com- manding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed by a stone bridge with a span of 108 ft. Omnibus from Dolce-Acqua to San Remo by Bordighera. Over the village, con- sisting of crowded houses piled above each other, rises the feudal castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the Genoese in 1672. 2J m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8^ m. from Bordighera, is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni Domenieo Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the Observatory at Paris for four generations. 106 Pigna. Colla. Ospedaletti. A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is Pigna, on the Nervia, at the foot of Monte Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village where the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of timber from the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and pic- turesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous spring, temp. 79"" Fahr. , utilised by a bathing establishment. Near Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the' village of Castel- Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., to Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia. The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6| m. N.E., by Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is the hamlet of Ruota, -with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster representing the Annunciation. A. short way farther a path descends from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° Fahr. After this the Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti. On the hills behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N., is La Colla, 1000 ft. above the sea and distinctly seen from the road. The nearest way up is by the narrow causewayed bridle-path commencing at the AV. end of Ospedaletti, passing through groves of lemon and olive trees, and entering La Colla near the Chiu-ch of St. Sebastian. In the Mairie, beside the church, is the Picture Gallery, open fi-om 9 to 12 and from 2.30 to 5, consisting of 100 paintings, mostly small, by Baroccio, Fra Bartolomraeo, Bronzino, Bassano, Caravaggio, Castellini, L. Credi, Carlo Dolce, Domenichino, G. Giovanni, G. Giuseppe, Mengs, I. Morghen, N. Poussin, G. Reni, Rigaud, Ribera, Salvator Rosa, A. del Sarto, Sasso- ferrato, Spagnoletto, P. Veronese, Zuccarelli, etc. The gems are : 45, a Nazarene, by G. Reni ; and 57, a Holy Family, by Fra 13artolommeo, These pictures were collected by the Abbe Paolo Rambaldi during his stay at Florence, and bequeathed by him at his death (1864) to this his native city. In the sacristy of the church is a carved ivory crucifix, bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs. The town, like all those on the mountains of the Riviera, consists of dirty narrow streets, with miserable houses. The carriage-road to La Colla commences at Cape Nero, winds up the bare side of the mountain and stops at the E. end near a church with a cupola. The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo ; but as a residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at Bordighera, instead of being a north-westei-ly wind, deviates by the configuration of the coast into a west wind. 131 " 87 ^ OSPEDALETTI, pop. 1000, with nearly a mile of frontage-^ towards the sea, in a sheltered situation. Upon an eminence the H. San Remo. Hotels. Pensions. 107 de la Reine, pension 9 to 16 frs., W 2^ frs. Adjoining is a Casino, H. et P. Suisse, 7 to 9 frs. : H. et P. Rodes, a little less. IGir 84 v^A SAN REMO, north-east from Men ton, pop. in winter 19,000. ^_' Hotels. — Those with the figure ^ are first-class houses, with ^ second- class. The asterisk signifies that they are good of their class. W stands for wine. R. etc., room, service and candle. D. dinner. P. pen- sion or board. Hotels nearest to the railway station and to the right up some steps are : the ^*H. Em-ope and Paix, 8 to 12 frs., W 1^ fr. ; opposite it the H. and Pension Rationale, 8 to 10 frs. per. day, W 1 fr. ; both close to the town garden and at the commencement of the im- portant street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele leading eastward, and the Strada Berigo ascending westward. Also near the station and to the right, on the same level, in the Via Roma are : the ^ H. Restaurant and Pension Metropole and Terminus, 7 to 8 frs. : the Episcopal Chapel : the ^ H. and P. San Remo : and the Post and Telegraph Office. From them up the short branch street is the * H. du Commerce, R. etc. 3 frs. , dinner with Avine 4 frs. Now follow in the Via V. Emanuele the British Vice-Consulate : the Rubino Bank : and Squire's Pharmacy. A little farther are the Asquasciati Bank : and the Circulating Library, book and stationery store and general agency of Mr. Gandolfo. At the east end of the Via Vittorio Emanuele is the Piazza whence the buses start for Taggia. From this part ascend the Via Francia, and the Strada Peirogallo. In the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern con- tinuation of the Via V. Emanuele, are : the ^ G. H. de Nice, 10 to 15 frs., W 11 fr. : the ^ Pension Suisse: the ^ H. Rome, 8 to 12 frs., W 1 fr. : the i * H. Mediterranee, 9 to 15 frs., W 2 frs. : and the ^ H. Vic- toria, 10 to 15 frs. Opposite the Mediterranee and in its own ground the G. Hotel Belle Vue, 10 to 18 frs. : and on the same level the Villa Zirio, where the German Emperor Frederick spent the last winter (1887- 88) of his life. Behind the hotels Rome, Mediterranee and Victoria are the promenade by the sea and the Bathing Establishment ; which serves also as a Casino. The hotel nearest the station on the West side is the H. Reine in a garden, second-class. Then follows the Presbyterian chapel, and then on an eminence the ^ * H. Royal, a very large house, pension from 10 frs. Above it the H. et P. Bristol, 8 to 12 frs., and the H. et P. Paradis, a little cheaper. West from the Royal and also on an eminence the ^* G. H. des Anglais : H. Pavilion, 7 to 11 frs., W 1 fr. : H. lies Britanniques, near the sea, P. 12 to 15 frs., W 2^ frs. : Eden Hotel: West End Hotel, a Swiss house on an eminence, P. 14 to 18 frs., W 3 108 San Memo. Banks. Cabs. Churches. frs. : next West End Hotel the Sanatorium, pension and medical attendance 10 to 15 frs. : H. Londres, P. 11 to 18 frs., opposite Episcopal chapel. The j^ension price of the above hotels includes every- thing with a cup of tea or coffee in the morning. On the Berigo road Pension Bella Vista : and *H. Belvedere. Persons coming to stay should alight at the H. de la Paix or the H. Commerce, and while there select the most suitable hotel ; but before taking up their quarters, agree upon the pension price to be paid. One week is the shortest period for a pension price. After the first week the lodger may leave when he pleases, for then the price is counted by the day. Behind the West End Hotel is the Villa Emily, a home for invalid ladies of limited means. They pay 25s. per week, which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes doctor's fees, comfortable board and lodging, and wine or beer. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts & Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London. In San Remo apply to the English Vice-Consul. Banks and Exchange Offices. — Asquasciati Brothers, Via Vittorio Emanuele 21 ; Mombello, Debraud & Co., Via Vittorio Emanuele 15 ; Marsaglia Brothers & Co., Via Roma ; Rubino, Via Vittorio Emanuele. Coaches. — A bus nms from one end of the town to the other every half-hour, 2 sous. From the Piazza Colombo coaches to Taggia at 10 A.M. and 5 p.m., \ fr. To Ceriana 2 p.m., 1^ fr. To Ospedaletti 10| A.M., 1| and 5 P.M., 6 sous. To Bordighera 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., 12 sous. To Badalusso 6.30 a.m. and 2 p.m., 1^ fr. From the Sfrada Corracli to Campo-Rosso and Dolce Acqua 2 p.m., 1| fr. Cab Fares. — The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1^ fr. night. Per hour, 2 frs. ; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, \\ fr. in the day, and 2| frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs. ; at night, 4 frs. Chnrches, — Episcopal, All Saints, Corso dell' Imperatrice : St. John the Baptist, Via Roma : Presbyterian, Corso dell' Imperatrice : Eglise Vaudoise, 9 Via Umberto. San Remo is the native town of Captain Bresca, who, contrary to the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud, " Aiga, dai de I'aiga ae corde ! " — Water, give water to the ropes I — when in 1586 they were hoisting on to its pedestal the Egyptian obelisk in front of the church of St. Peter at Rome. Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of these hills, on the iSTice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. "The mean temperature is 49° *1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet's estimate of that of Menton ; while it would appear, from a comparis.jn NORTH Regione /> r E R R A N E SOUTH : \ r-'-, |(^Jr.^o.= Borjo «,8.o..B„agMw-^ SAN RE MO Climate. Drives. Ceriana. 109 of the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny witli those of Dr. Bennet for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly 3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well - protected spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying distances fi-om the sea ; while the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in wild flowers, provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions. "—Williams's Winter Stations. The drinking water is excellent. ' ' The climate is not to he recommended for j)ersons of full habit of body ; for those who are liable to cerebral congestion, nor for those having an apoplectic tendency ; it being too stimulating. For the same reasons, as well as on account of the hilly and mountainous character of the country, it is not good in hypertrophy of the heart, nor in valvular and obstructive diseases of that organ." — The late A. H. Hassall, M.D. London, many years one of the first physicians in S. Remo. San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces of low stone Avails without plaster. One of the best walks or drives is along the Berigo, Pescio, Baragallo, and Francia roads. Ascend by the "West End Hotel and descend by the Hotel de Mce. Another favourite drive is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the Hotel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arri^-ing at a part where the road divides into two ; one descends, the other ascends ; take the latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the " Strada Consortile de San Remo a Ceriana." This road ascends through olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the car- riage-road to the ^ladonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the Ceriana valley to Ceriana. Inn : H. Etoile d'ltalie, 6h m. from San Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the profusion of wild flowers, form the principal attraction of the excursion. Cab with 1 horse to Ceriana and back, 1 1 110 *S'. Romolo. Monte Bignone. frs. ; 2 horses, 20 frs. , with \ hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma, Pdva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the west are San Remo, La CoUa, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the chaj^el and back, 7 frs. ; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ^ hr. rest. Bus to Ceriana, 1| fr. A good carriage-road commencing near Cape Nero leads up to La CoUa, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea, and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab A\4th 1 horse, 8 frs. ; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ^ hr. repose. S. Romolo to Monte Bignone. One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above the sea, 4 miles northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was inhabited by the Hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from it the ascent is made of the Piano del Re, a ridge 3500 ft. above the sea, between Momits Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge descend the Romolo road a short way, then take the path to the left and make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about half that time from San Romolo. " In making the ascent of Monte Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite practicable for sm-e- footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is exceedingly beauti- ful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost every turn ; the patli sometimes traverses forests of fir ti'ees, with amongst them innumer- able bushes of the bright - leaved holly, at others it runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices : many curious and rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way ; till at length, after an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. "Continue the ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, and from whicli one of the most magnificent •^vo- spects imaginable lies stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more than a hundred miles, astonishing and en- View from Monte Bignone. Ill chanting the beholder. To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo ; on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Xero surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera ; farther away, the mountains of the Men- tonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the various capes and promontories as far as Cap d'Antibes and even the Esterels : on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lanipedusa, and Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore ; while far away to the east are the mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the Apennines in the distance ; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep valley, having on the other side a range of moimtains still loftier than the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped Aljis stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a narrow ridge on the near side of the valley is seen the town of Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale ; both of a singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the houses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leading down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but clean inn may be had for the night ; whence the retmrn home can then be made by the Xervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Xervia see p. 105, and map, p. 105.) " It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone ; it must be seen to be appreciated ; it has been described as one of the finest in Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely under- taken Adtli ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue Hepatica, Anemone. Hepatica L., a pink variety of ■which is sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower Erythro- nium Dens Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves ; in shady places the Primrose, Primula acaulis All. ; everywhere over the simimit of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris ; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis I^. ; Ophrys fusca Link. , also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd. ; Saxifraga cuneifolia ; Semper- vivum arachnoideum L. ; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne laureola L. 112 Tagffin. Porto Maurizio. With two or three exceptions these flowers were found in blossom in April. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of Helleborus fcetidus L. , as also for the first time in flower the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L., the species so com- monly found above the region of the olive trees." — San Remo, by Dr. Hassall. The Christmas rose is also abundant. San Remo to Taggia, there and back, cab 1 horse, 8 frs. ; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ^ hour rest ; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. By omnibus from San Remo, \ fr. Donkey from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d' Italia, occupying part of the palace of the Marquis Spinola. This once beautiful palace affords another of the many striking illustrations of departed greatness met ^^-ith in nearly every town in Italy. The stream Taggia or Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellaro, whence a Avell-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Ti'iora, by the village of Baldalucco. Pompeiana and Bussana suSered by the earthquake of 1887. 21- 79 ^ TAGGIA, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m, from the station. ^^ Coach between San Remo and Taggia, 4 fr. An omnibus awaits passengers (^ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d'ltalia, at the termination of the Via Curio ; whence commences the road to Castellaro, on a hill on the opposite side of the river, about \ hour's walk fi"om Taggia. The church was destroyed by the earthquake of 1887. Buses between Taggia and San Remo. Taggia, though a poor dirty town, Avith steep, narrow, and slipjjery streets, has two very fair churches. No. 1 Via Soleri — the principal street in the town — Avas the house of Giovanni Rufiini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, -with the ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther E. by rail is San Stefano al Mare, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Calma, with a climate like that of San Remo. ^ PORTO MAURIZIO, pop. 7000. Station beloAv town. Cabs -^ at station. Up the hill at entrance to town the H. France. Tram- bus and cabs near the H. France. A seat in either to Oneglia 4 sous. From the " France " a wide road commanding charming views ascends to the high town containing the principal church of S. Maurizio, built Oneglia. Alassio. 113 in the 18th cent. The pediment flanked by two square towers rests on eight cohinins. The interior represents the Roman-Greek style, met with in all the churches on this coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with attached Corinthian pillars. The sofiits of the arches and domes are covered with diaper mouldings, "svith rich friezes and dentils along the edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly hidden. JSlany of the old houses have handsome cornices over their mndows and doorways. A much frequented and pleasant road connects Porto Maurizio with Oneglia (Albergo del Yapore), about a mile distant, at the mouth of the Impero. The cabs and tram-bus stop in Oneglia at the Piazza Maria Teresa, a little beyond the bridge, and the Albergo del Vapore. From the Piazza a wide, straight street, the Via Maria Christina, arcaded on both sides, extends ,to the Via S. Giovanni on the right. At the foot of the Via S. Giovanni, where it enters the port, is the house in which Admiral Andrea Doria was born in 1466 ; and at No. 13 of the Via Christina, Garibaldi lodged on the 23rd September 1848. Both Port ■Maurizio and Oneglia have long breakwaters, extending far out into the sea. From Oneglia may be said to commence the long series of tunnels with their cold sulphury air. After traversing one of them, the train arrives at Diauo Marina, which suffered so severely by the earthquake of 1887. The broad valley inland up the Pietro is covered with olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, ^\ith gardens of orange trees. From Laigueglia a smooth beach extends to Alassio. 56^ m. from Genoa is Alassio, 29J m. from Menton, pop. 4000, scarcely suitable for a winter station for delicate patients. Hotels. — Opposite the station the Pension Suisse, 7 to 8 frs. : behind the station the H. Bellevue, 8 frs. Down on the beach is the large first-class house, the Grand Hotel of Alassio, 8 to 10 frs., with great facilities for bathing, both in the sea and in sea water in the hotel, hot or cold. Beyond, at the west end of the town, and outside the walls, is the H. Mediterranee, 6 to 7 frs. , in a sheltered situation, near the fishermen's boats. Standing mth the face to the station are, to the right, the Episcopal chapel and the English Library. Alassio is a walled town, with a considerable population outside the walls. From the N.E. end, the G. Hotel end, the Via Umberto extends to the Piazza del Commercio, and from that Piazza the Via Vittorio Emanuele extends to the S.W. end ; while the continuation 114 Albenga. Borgio Verezzi. Noli. of the road outside the Avails is the Via Gian Cardi, passing by the fishermen's boats, the town hall, and the H. ]\Iediterranee. The whole street within the Avails is well paved and lined with little shops, but no butcher's is among them, although several shops keep salt pork. Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are i)artially protected from some of the cold Avinds by Ioav but compact mountains belonging to the chain of the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant Avalks and Avell-paved cause- Avays extend up the hills, Avhile along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or up the valley of the Caprianna. Around both towns are many large carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. BetAveen Alassio and the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, Avith a castle on the summit of the hill. Albenga, pop. 3200, is 4 m. N. from Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little distance from the coast. Hotels : Albergo Reale : Vittoria. Their omnibuses aAvait passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a broad A^alley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees trained as espaliers. Four miles from Albenga is the town and port of Cei'iale Avith a good beach — Albergo Ceriale. After Ceriale follow Loano, Avith church erected in 1609, pleasantly situated on the beach at the foot of a gently-sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola, pop. 1000, a sheltered town, Avith abun- dance of palms, orange, and lemon trees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape. BetAveen Pietraligure and Finalmariua is Borgio Verezzi, Avith the H. Beau Rivage overlooking the station. P. 6 to 9 frs. The town is more inland. ^ FINALMARINA, pop. 2000. Hotel : Garibaldi. The church w^ of St. John the Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly orna- mented Avith marbles of various hues, mingled Avith rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the church S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The pulpit and altar display most delicate work- manship. There is a great deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant Avalks in the valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th cent), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N. from Finalmarina is Noli, pop. 1000, I7i7i: Albergo del Sole, at the commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still ])artially sun-ounded by AA-alls X 'J:ik :east \ ^. '^ .JA ^;5i v isaAi Savona. Cathedral. 115 garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via Emanuele II. , which commences at the beach on the E. side by the clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the "\V. side by the new church. The con- tinuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives and maritime pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls garnished with circular towers. The old parish church, 11th cent., is near the station. Fishing is the chief industry. A road, 2 m. N. by the coast, leads to Spotorno. 74 , 26^ -,— SAVONA, pop. 20,000, good resting-place. Buses at station. ^— ^ *H. Roma, under the arcades. The H. Suisse in the Piazza of the Teatro Chiabrera, whence buses start for the Sanctuary, a cheap and picturesque drive. Savona is the Savo where, according to Livy, Mago the Carthaginian stored his booty in the Second Punic War. The greater part of the to"SATi is modern, consisting of handsome boulevards and broad streets lined with massive arcades and substantial houses built in square blocks of from four to five stories high. The great pro- menade is at the fii-st turn right from the H. Roma, the Via del Corso, leading to the sea and passing the cathedral and the public gardens. The rock, the Rupe di S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. Here too is the harbour, with its tower crowned -with an image of Mary. The principal dock, excavated in the rock, is 986 ft. long, 460 wide, and 23 deep. The Cathedral, built in 1604, is, in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of gilding. The two large frescoes in the chou", and the other at the western end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. In the Sistina chapel is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle of Julius II. Facing the cathedral is the mansion built by Julius II., occupied by the post and telegi-aph offices and the law courts. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first chapel, left on entering, a "Nativity" by A. Semini. The figure of the Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church is an " Adoration of the Magi " by Albert Durer, in the fonn of a triptych. In a small church, called the Cappella di Christo, over the altar Avithin a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to 500 years old. 116 Alhissola. Varazze. Arenzano. The Emperor Pertinax, and Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus IV. and Julius II., were born in or near the neighbourhood of Savona. 4 m. from Savona by bus and rail is the sanctuary of N'ostra Sig- noria di ^lisericordia in a deep glen surrounded by mountains. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin 91^ m. N. by the Santuario, Ceva, Carru, Bra and Caramagnola. Also to Alessandria 65^ m. X. by the Santuario and Acqui. See pp. 83 and 134. wL ALBISSOLA, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. A great deal of ^-^ pottery is made here. This town is about a mile from the Port or Marina. 4^ m. farther eastwards by rail is Vaxazze, pop. 4000 {Inn : Torretti), at the head of a large bay. A little shipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiftil palm, lemon, and orange gi'oves. This is the birthplace of Jacapo di Voragine, the author of the Golden Legend, the reading of which was the principal means of transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, 6| m. KE. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which ]\[onte Grosso (1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of Phillyrea aagustijoUa, with here and there just enough olive trees to afibrd evidence of the comparative mildness of the climate. Half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the village of Inoria. ilcOGOLETO, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the^ town ; and on reaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, turn to the left. In the second division right hand, at Xo. 22, is the house considered for a long time the birthplace of Columbus, with the folloAxing inscription : — Hospes, siste gradurn. Fuit hie lux'prhna Columbo ; Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus ! Unus erat muyidus. Duo siiit, ait isfc. Fuere. (See p. 132.) Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of Cogoleto. i!iAREXZAXO, pop. 4000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near^ station. One of the cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque country and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between Arenzano and Cogoleto passes by ^Monte Grosso. 911 8| w^ VOLTRI and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-^^ making and shipbuilding are the principal industries. H. Svizzero. Pegli. Sestri-Ponente. 117 95 5V -^PEGLI, pop. 4000. *G. H. Pegli. Full south : large garden. ^^ Pension 8 frs., kept by Mrs. Gargini (English). *G. H. Mediterranee, Pension 9 to 12 frs. in winter : in its own grounds. One side to the sea, and the other to the public garden and English chapel. At top of stair from station, the H. de la Ville. Pegli is a quaint little town, prettily situated on the sea, among hills. It has constant communi- cation by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of the grounds around the Villa Pallavicini, ornamented AA^th statues of Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk, all of Carrara marble. But the remarkable object is the artificial cave, hung with consummate art with large stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded by evergi'een shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. At one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although several miles distant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of a hill, where almost nothing would gi'ow from the want of water and of soil. Water was brought from a great dis- tance, and caused to form a lake, which had to be lined with porcelain to retain it. Arrived at the lake, a boat Avith a prow shaped like a swan's neck solicits the visitors' company on a mythological voyage. On issuing from the cave he is brought to a charming spot, where on the right a cascade is seen tumbling over rocks, while on the left is an Ionic temple dedicated to Flora. Farther on an Egyptian obelisk rises from the water as if from an overflowing Nile, and near at hand a Turkish kiosk presents its pictm^esque anachronism. Through an arch of a Gothic bridge is an admirable view over the gulf of Genoa ; and a few minutes beyond, from a bower, is another charming view. Here a shower of water sometimes bursts upon the visitor, produced by the pressure of the guide's finger ; who however takes this liberty only with visitors of thorough good-humour. The most extensive of the Wews, not the most picture-like, is from the top of the hill. Closed on Fridays : guide 1 fr. : for party 2 frs. Those going eastward should alight at one of the Pegli hotels, and from it select their Genoa hotel — it is so easy to go and return either by rail or tram. If m. E. from Pegli and 3f W. from Genoa is Sestri-Ponente, pop. 10,800. Hotel: *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with commodious bathing establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of small pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroom every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by the gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and covered with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are 118 Genoa. Hotels. Cafes. painted statues of the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station than the next towTi, Comigliano, "H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., with sheltered garden, 2^ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4° to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of both hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populous suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railway station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminus of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams. 100 m. from Menton is Genoa, pop. 213,000. Hotels. — At the station in the Piazza Acquaverde is the *H. Aquila with 70 rooms, from 2 frs. with light and service to 4 frs. D. 3| frs. Railway tickets sold in the hotel. Immediately beyond the Piazza is the *H. Londres, R. etc. from 4 to 8 frs. D. 5 frs. A little farther, in the Via Balbi, is the H. Liguria. Pension 7 to 8 frs. In the Via Cairoli is the H. Etrangers. R. etc. from 4i to 6^ frs. D. 4^ frs. A tariff is in each room. Railway tickets sold. In the Piazza Fontane Morose and near the terminus of the cable rail- way, the H. Metropole. R. etc. 3 frs. D. 4 frs. with vrmQ. In the Port near the Bourse and the house where Daniel O'Connell died, p. 132, is the *H. Smith. Near the H. Smith, the France, both similar prices. R. etc. 2| to 3J frs. D. with wine 4 frs. In the best part of the Port, the H. de la Ville. R. etc. from 5 to 7 frs. D. 5 frs. without wine. Near the Post Office and off the low end of the Via Roma is the * Central Hotel. R. etc. 3 frs. D. 4 frs. with wine. At the high end of the Via Roma is the H. Concordia. R. etc. from 3 frs. D. 4| frs. with Avine. All the above are sufficiently comfortable and their charges moderate, but their style is less elegant than that of the expensive houses. Their buses also are cheaper, which makes a considerable item when the party is large. In many cases it is cheaper to take a cab. The two best situated first-class hotels are the G. Hotel Isotta in the Via Roma, a little higher than the Post. R. etc. 5| to 10^ frs. D. 5 frs. And the H. Pare, between the Acquasola Park and the Serra garden. The G. H. de Genes opposite the Theatre Carlo Felice is not so well situated ; all their charges are much the same. R. signifies room, and etc. stands for service and candle. D. for dinner. The candle of course is not charged every day. Cafes. — In winter the two best cafes are the Roma and the Milano, entered from the Via Roma and the beautiful arcade ; which makes a pleasant promenade on a wet winter night. In the Via Garibaldi is the Cafe Concordia with garden. At the top of the Via Roma (right hand) is the Cafe Italia, open in summer, when it is much frequented in the evenings. Cabs. Churches. Shops. Sights. 119 Raihvay Stations. — The principal station is at the west end of the town in the Piazza Acquaverde with statue of Columbus. The ticket- office is in the Piazza, but all the rest is in a be^^^[lde^ing confusion down several flights of stairs. The other station, the Stazione Piazza Brig- nole, is at the east end of the town, at the other end of the tunnel. Passengers coming from Pisa, Leghorn, Spezia and the intervening towns should see that their tickets are for the principal station and not for Brignole, excepting those going to the Hotel du Pare, which is quite near. Cab fares. — Within the first zone, that is the whole space between the Strada di Circonvallazione and the sea, one horse, 1 fr. Two horses, IJ fr. At night, i fr. more. By the hour, one horse, the first hour 2 frs. ; every successive half-hour 75c. Two horses, 2 J frs. ; every successive half-hour 1 fr. At night, 2oc. more. Every article carried outside 20c. Night fares are charged when the street lamps are lit. Every coachman has to carry an official tariff ; which see. ProtestaM Churches. — Anglican Church (the Holy Spirit) from be- hind the right arm of the Y. Emanuele statue at head of the Via Eoma straight forward to the Via Goito (see plan). The Presbyterian church is in the Via Peschiera, first street right off" the Via Assarotti. At No. 37 of the Via Assarotti is the Waldensian church. Seamen's Institute 26 Via Milano, and the Sailor's Rest, Xo. 15, both in the west end of the Port between the piers Ponte Doria and the Ponte Colombo. Shops. — For filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici by the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere della Mad- dalena, which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. Best bookshops: A. Donath, in No. 44 Via Luccoli, off" S.W. side of the Fontane Morose ; and L. Beuf, No. 2 Via Cairoli, near the Piazza Grimaldi. Post and Telegraph Office, Via Roma. Consulates. — American, No. 14 Via Assarotti ; British, 10 Via Palestro. Bankers. — Garnet, Brown and Co., 7 Via Garibaldi. The PrincijKd Sights are the church of the Annunziata, p. 125 ; the Cemetery, approached by the Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari ; the Palaces between the raihvay station and the Piazza Nuova ; the church of Santa Maria in Carignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari, by the Acquasola Park, situated 138 ft. above the sea. To the right of an equestrian statue of V. Emanuele at the head of the Via Roma, the charming little hill, the Villetta di Negro, commanding delightful \dews. In reality it is a part of the Acquasola Park. Winding paths ascend through a tiny forest, affording occasionally through openings in the plantation a fore- taste of the fine panorama to be enjoyed from the top, whence a stream 120 Genoa. Steamers. Via Circonvallazione. of clear water rushes down in a braAvling cascade, imparting a degree of wilduess to the place, aided by the presence of a few tame "wild beasts " in cages. Steamers. — Xavigazione Generale Italiana. Regular daily sailings to the Italian ports and islands. Apply at their office in the Piazza Acqua- verde for their handbook and time-table. The Compagnie Marseillaise de Navigacion a Yapeur has two weekly steamers to Marseilles, one of them calling at Nice and Cannes on the way. The Compagnia Veloce have steamers every month for the Canary Islands. The landing-place from the steamers is at the small pier near the Custom-house. The two nearest hotels are the H. Aquila and the H. Londres. Boat A\-ith luggage to or from steamer, 1 fr. Beyond the harbour, 2 frs. Luggage may be booked for its destination at the Custom-house after examina- tion. Fee to porter, 4 sous. Omnibuses. — The principal line runs between the Piazza de Ferrari in the eastern and best part of the town and the Piazza Principe at the western end, a little beyond the railway station and adjoining the Palazzo Doria (see plan). Fares 2 sous. Starts every 10 minutes, traverses the busiest streets, and passes the best shops and palaces. From the Piazzi Ferrari many smaller omnibuses start, of which the most important for the traveller are : to the Piazza Carignano, for the church and view, p. 131 : to the Via Circonvallazione. The easiest way up to the Via Circonvallazione di Monte is to take the electric tram starting every 10 minutes from behind the equestrian statue of V. Emanuele at the head of the Via Roma and ascending the Via Assarotti to the Piazza Manin, 330 ft. above the sea. Standing in the Piazza Manin with the back to the ti'am, the road in the right hand comer ascends to the Muro San Bartolommeo ; while the road to the left is the Corso Principe Amadeo, the beginning of the Corso Circon- vallazione. At first there are no views, because houses have been built on both sides of the road. The other way up to this beautiful Corso is by the cable tram commencing at the Portello, near the Piazza Fontane ^Morose, and ascending to the garden of the Corso Magenta. This Via or road, commanding charming views, is divided into Corsos with dilferent names, connected with the city at every turn by numer- ous flight? of stairs cmd steep lanes and ramps. From the Piazza de Ferrari starts also every 15 minutes the Staglieno omnibus, which stops before the entrance into the Cemetery or Campo Santo (p. 133). From the Piazza de Ferrari starts every 10 minutes the omnibus to the Foce (the mouth of the Bisagno), principally by the Via di Circon- vallazione al Mare. :n^03ith ^ ^ /''%aua// Hl^^ 'S^^ o "^ o ^---^ ^^JEW H A RB O U R S OVTH Position of Genoa. Palaces. 121 A little to the east of the Piazza de Ferrari is the Piazza Archi. ^vheIlce a tram starts every 20 minutes to Nervd (p. 135). The Piazza Annunziata is the gi-eat starting-point for trams and omnibuses to places west from Genoa. Between the Piazza Annunziata and Pegli a tram nms every 10 minutes. Between the Piazza Annunziata and Sestri - Ponente an omnibus runs every 12 minutes. Between the Piazza Annunziata and Bolzaneto a tram runs every 10 minutes. Between the Piazza Nuova and Rivarola an omnibus runs every 15 minutes. Genoa is singularl}' constructed around a small bay on shelving ground, rising rapidly from the water's edge to the height of from 500 to 600 feet. The old part of the to^^^l is a labyi-inth of crooked streets from 6 to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be cut in them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced " corsos " or roads, which now may be called streets, skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza Maniu, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri, founded in 1665, built between two hills after designs byStefano Scaniglia, covering 215,280 square feet and accom- modating 1400 inmates, who manufacture cotton and woollen cloth, furniture, embroidery, mosaics, etc. In the centre is the church. On the high altar a statue of the " Conceived Avithout sin " by Puget. On the first altar left, the famous relief by Montorsoli, Mary with the body of Jesus on her knees. At house No. 19 of the Corso Principe Amadeo is the Salita San Rocchino, which passes by the Protestant hospital. Above the Albergo dei Poveri is the Hunters' Tavern (Trattoria dei Cacciatori). There is also a beautiful road by the sea, the Corso di Circonvallazione al mare, which extends from the Piazza A". Emanuele eastward to the Bisagno, whence it ascends the river to the Via Venti Settembre. See the accompanying map. The palaces, another featm^e of Genoa, are gaunt mansions, similar in style — gates 40 feet high, with marble columns — courts paved with various coloured marbles — broad staircases — rooms 30 feet high with arched panelled ceilings, the panels separated by sculptures and filled with paintings. For real beauty and architectural jDropriety of design they will not stand a moment's comparison witli the contemporary palaces of Florence and Rome. The best churches and palaces are near each other, in the streets 122 Genoa. Admiral Dorians Palace. extending from the railway station, at the west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa. The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but long staircases. The best are : the Palazzo Marcello Durazzo, 1 Via Balbi, from 10 to 4 p.m. ; the *P. Rosso, 18 Via Garibaldi, open from 10 to 4 : free on Mondays and Thursdays : other days, 1 fr. each ; and the Palazzo del Municipio, 9 Via Balbi, open to the public. "Where there is no fixed price, a gratuity of 1 fr. is sufficient. Most of the palaces have in each of the rooms cards with lists of the pictures. As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and the cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after ha-vaug visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo, and diive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, round by the ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria di Carignano, of poor design, but well situated. The only palace west from the station is the barrack -looking building at the Piazza del Princij)e, the Palazzo Doria, bearing a long inscription on the side rising from the street, stating that "Andrea d'Oria, admiral of the Papal, French and Genoese fleets, had caused this palace to be rebuilt for himself and his posterity." The architect was Montorsoli, and it was finished, as an inscription over the principal entrance states, in 1529. It consists of two parts, the eastern end being by far the more sumptuous, while the western, ending at the church of San Benedetto, is plain and without ornament. In the time of the admiral the garden extended to the sea, where his galleys lay moored. When visited by Charles V. he gave a banquet on board, and at the conclusion of the feast, after drinking to the emperor, the host, and his guests at his request, cast their costly silver goblets into the sea, but the wily admiral had prepared for such an exhibition of lavish respect by having hung nets round the galley. The best of the statues are by Silvio Cosini, and of the ornaments and trophies by Giovanni da Fiesole. The frescoes are by Pierin del Vaga and Gio. Angelo Montorsoli. Those of Vaga were retouched by Paganelli and Angelini in 1845. The best are in the great hall and in the Titan saloon, in which are also a superb mantelpiece and a portrait of the admiral with his favourite cat. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea Doria as Neptune -^-ith his Sea-horses, by P. Carlone. In the garden, on the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of Hercules, erected by Doria, and a monument to the memorj' of his dog Rolando, given liim by the Emperor Charles, who Lighthouse. Royal Palace. 123 conferred upon him the title of "II Principe." The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San Matteo (p. 129). S.W. from the Palazzo Doria, by the side of the Via ]\Iilano, is a handsome terrace overlooking the harbour. Farther west, near the Molo Nuovo, on the rocky promontory which separates Genoa from Sampierdarena, is the Torre della Lantema, the lighthouse erected in 1543. It is 384 ft. above the sea, 226§ ft. above the ground, is seen 25 miles off, is ascended by 375 steps, and commands a splendid view of the coast from Cape Xoli on the west to Portofino on the east, as well as a fine panorama of Genoa. Gratuity ^ fr. East from the Doria palace is the statue of Colimabus in the piazza of the railway station. It was unveiled in 1862. The modelling was begun by Lorenzo Bartolini, who died in 1850, and continued by Pietro Freccia, died in 1853, and at last completed by Andrea Franzone and Svanascini. The reliefs on the pedestal represent Columbus at Salamanca, by Gaggini ; then, from right to left : he plants the cross on the newly discovered land, by Costoli ; Columbus presenting the fruits from the New World to Ferdinand and Isabella, by Giambattista ; Columbus in chains, by Salvatore Revelli. See p. 132. "Walking eastward from the principal station, the first large building right hand, No. 10 Via Balbi, is the Palazzo Reale, erected in the 17th cent, by Pier Francesco Cantone and Gio. Angelo Falcone for the Durazzo family, and decorated principally by Carlo Fontana. In 1817 it was bought by Vittorio Emanirele and restored in 1842 under the direction of Michele Canzio. The principal fa9ade, fronted with a spacious arcade, is to the sea. The palace is sumptuously furnished, the private rooms are small, and few of the pictures are masterpieces. The reception-room is covered with frescoes by Giuseppe Frascheri and decorations by M. Canzio. The frescoes in the neighbouring saloon are by M. Cesari Danieli. Upstairs, preceded by a vast "antisala," is the most imposing of the rooms, the Salone da Ballo, with frescoes by Giusej)pe Isola, repre- senting Jove bestowing peace and abundance upon the earth. In the small side room, which the Durazzos used as a chapel, are a marble statue by F. Parodi and frescoes by Domenico Parodi. Then follow spacious galleries with frescoes and statues, and small rooms opening otf them hung with pictures. The palace is shown in the absence of the royal family. Opposite the royal palace is the church of San Carlo founded by the Padri Carmelitani Scalzi in 1600. On the same side, No. 5 Via Balbi, is the Palazzo dell' Universita, founded in 1623 by Paolo Balbi, and built and decorated by the archi- 124 Genoa. Palazzo Mar cello Durazzo. tect Bartolomeo Bianco. Over the entrance is a bust of the founder by Ignazio Peschiera. The court, staircase, and arcade are among the finest in Genoa. At the head of the first staircase is part of the monmnent of Simon Boceanegra, the first Doge of Venice, brought from the convent of Castelletto. In the saloons of the upper galleries are bronze statues by G. Bologna. The building contains the usual apparatus of a university and the best library in Genoa. At Xo. 4 A^ia Balbi is the private palace Balbi-Senarega, con- structed early in the 17th cent, by tlie architect Bianco, and enlarged by Pier Antonio Corradi, adorned Avith frescoes by Domenico Piola, Valerio Castello and Gregorio de Ferrari, and vdth decorations by Sighizzi and Brozzi, The picture gallery on the first floor (open from 2 to 4) contains in six rooms paintings by Bassano, Bronzino, Cappuccino, the two Caracci, Caravaggio, Greghetto, Guercino, Holbein, F. Lippi, Parmi- gianino, Procaccino, Guido Reni, Rubens, Titian, Tintoretto, P. del Vaga, Van Dyck, etc. In room 2 is a Madonna with St. Catherine by Titian, painted in 1520, but sadly injured by restoration. In room 3 are portraits of the Balbi family by Van Dyck. IS'o. 1 Via Balbi is the Palazzo Marcello Dm-azzo, one of the best to visit, on account of it representing in their best style the character- istics of the Genoese palaces. It possesses the largest and most valuable collection of paintings, of which those in the first four rooms are generally shoAvn to visitors, between 10 and 4. Gratuity, 1 fr. Those in the remaining rooms in the absence of the family. The massive entrance gate, surmounted by the family escutcheon, opens into a spacious vestibule, whence ascends to the left a superb staircase by Andrea Tagliafichi, so elegantly and lightly supported that its OAvner, ;Marcellone Durazzo, refused to trust himself on it till Tagliafichi caused a heavy load of sugar to be carried up and down on it. In the antisala are busts of members of the family by Batta- Cevasco, Santo Varni, and G. B. Villa. In the west wing are the eight rooms, forming the picture gallery, in which the principal artists are : G. Assereto, Baciccio, Cappuccino, A. and L. Caracci.. Caravaggio, Valerio Castello, Danieli, Crespi, Domenichino, Durer. Andrea de Ferrari, Jacopo Franccschini, L. Giordano, Guercino, G. B. Langetti, Giovanni Lanfranco, Lucas of Leyden, Carlo Lotti, Morone, Mulinaretto, F. Porbus, Procaccino, Guido Reni, G. Rigaud, Romanelli, Rubens, Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, Schidone, Strozzi, Tintoretto, Titian, P. del Vaga, Van Dyck, P. Veronese, Vouwerman, Antonio Zanchi. In the fourth room is the gem of the collection, James I. of England and Family, by Van Dyck. In the reception The Annunziata Church. San Siro. 125 room are other three choice works by the same master. The frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola, Davolio, and Bazzani. In each room there are cards with the names of the artists and subject. From the Via Balbi enter the Piazza dell' Annunziata, containing the most gorgeous and most elegant church in Genoa. The S. S. Annunziata, called "del Guastato," to distinguish it from the other church of that name at the eastern side of the town. It was built in 1288 by the Umiliati monks ; when it was only a little chapel with a cemetery, called at first S. Marta and afterwards S. Fran- cesco. In the 17th cent., chiefly by the munificence of the Lomellini family, the present edifice, designed by Puget, Avas commenced and completed in 1884. The pediment of the farade rests on a colonnade of six stately white marble columns, but the facade itself is composed of sun-dried bricks merely veneered with marlile. It is 82 ft. wide, exclusive of the side chapels, and 250 ft. long. The nave is separated on each side from the aisles by a row of 6 Corinthian columns of white marble, the fluting being inlaid with marbles of a warmer colour. The walls from the entrance to the apse are lined with precious marbles, arranged in patterns of great beauty. The roof of the nave, covered with beautiful frescoes, is divided transversely into 3 compartments, an arrangement which suits windoAvs of a semicircular form cut into a semicircular vault. Over the central entrance door is the Cenacolo (Last Supper) by Procaccino, considered his masterpiece. The figure of the prophet at each side is by Gioachino Assereto. The mosaics (intagli e incrostature) are by Giacomo Porta and Domenico Scorticone ; the medallions by Giovanni and Giambattista Carlone. The frescoes on the ceiling are by Ansaldo, L. Borzone (who lost his life while so engaged), G. Assereto, Giulio Benso, G. B. and G. A. Carlone, Andrea de Ferrari, Giuseppe Galeotti, Domenico Piola, P. P. Ptaggi, and A. Semino. The vault of the cupola is by Ansaldo, restored by G. Ferrari in 1703 as it had been injured by damp — it represents the Assumption of Mary. The frescoes of the choir are by Giulio Benso, representing J. C. sending angels for Mary — and the marriage of Anne (the reputed mother of Mary) TA-ith Jehoiachim. In the choir are 36 stalls of walnut wood executed at the end of the 16th cent, at the expense of Lorenzo Lomellino. In front of the S. S. Annunziata trams and buses start every 10 minutes for Cornigliano p. 118, Sestri-Ponente p. 117, and Pegli p. 117. At No. 6 Via Cairoli, right hand, descend to the church of San Siro, the cathedral of Genoa till 985, restored in the 16th cent, by the Padri Teatini and modified at the beginning of the 19th cent, under the direction of Carlo Barabino. The hvAi altar Avas desicmed 126 Genoa. Palazzo Spinola. Palazzo Rosso. by Pieti'O Paget, by whom are also the bronze ornaments which decor- ate it. The other decorations and marble statues are by Tommaso, Giuseppe, and Taddeo Carlone, and Giambattista Orsolino, and the frescoes by Gio. Andrea Carlone and Gregorio de Ferrari. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6 Piazza Pellie- ceria, is the Palazzo Spinola founded by the Grimaldi family. The ceilings are painted by G. B. Carlone, Tavarone, Ferrari, and Galeotti. The pictures are chiefly by Genoese artists. Among the best are : Bassano, The Four Seasons ; II Biscaino, The Magi ; Calvart, Holy Family ; Cambiaso, J. C. appearing to his Disciples ; G. B. Carlone, Calvary ; Castello, Marriage of Mary ; Castiglione, Noe leaving the Ark ; S. Conca, Marriage of S. Catherine ; Gentileschi, Child Jesus ; Gignoni, The Four Virtues ; Luca Giordano, S. Anne ; Guercino, Mary and Child ; Luti, J. C. and Mary ; Maratta, Annunciation ; Procaccino, Last Supper ; Ribera, S. Gerolamo ; Rubens, Holy Family. 4th room, gem, Schidone, Holy Family ; Spagnoletto, Martyrdom of S. Bartolommeo ; Vaga, Holy Family ; Van Dyck, Madonna ; Vanni, St. Catherine of Siena ; F. Zuccaro, S. Catherine of Alessandria. At No. 18 Yia Garibaldi is the Palazzo Rosso, open from 10 to 4, 1 fr. ; free Mondays and Thursdays. It contains a valuable library of 20,000 vols., and a collection of paintings distributed in nine rooms, each room having catalogues for the use of visitors. This palace, formerly the property of the Brignole-Sale family, was, w4th its artistic and literary treasures, presented in 1874 to the city of Genoa by the Marchesa Maria Brignole-Sale, with the consent of her husband the Duke di Galliera, and of her son Filippo. The palace was built in the middle of the 17th cent. On the ground-floor are frescoes by Carlo Baratta representing scenes in the life of Columbus. A handsome staircase leads up to the vestibule of the Galleria Brignole, entered by the door to the right. In the first room, called " delle Arti liberali," the frescoes are by Andrea Carlone, and the decorations by Andrea Leoncino. The portraits are by Giacomo Boni and Giambattista Chiappe, representing those members of the Brignole- Sale family who were doges of Genoa in the 17th and 18th cents. The next room is called the Alcova, with 4 portraits of members of the Brignole-Sale family by Rigaud and Heuss. The 3rd room, the Sala della Gioventu, has the ceiling painted by Domenico Parodi, representing mythological scenes. " Cleopatra " is by Guercino ; The Sacrifice of Noe and Abraham Parting from Lot, by Sinibaldo Scorza ; Charity, by Bernardo Strozzi (il Cappuccino) ; Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto, and A Naval Victory, by Giorgione. Palazzo Rosso. Palazzo del Municipio. 127 The 4tli, or the saloon of marble busts of Eoman emperors and family armorial bearings. Most of the pictures are by Genoese artists such as : Valerio Castello, Bartolommeo Guidoboni, and Domenico Piola. In the 5th room, called the Stanza della Primavera, are : Portrait of a Venetian Lady, by P. Bordone. Porti-ait of an Old Man and of Filippo II., by Titian. Portrait of a Botanist, by Moretto da Brescia, painted in 1533. *Antonio Giulio Brignole-Sale on Horseback, Paolina Adorno Brignole-Sale, the Prince of Orange, and Jesus Bearing the Cross, all by Van Dyck. Man with Reed Pipe, by Sti'ozzi. The 6th room, Stanza d'Estate. — Frescoes by Gregorio de Ferrari, representing Summer, and decorations by the brothers Haffner. Among the pictures are : Clorinda liberating Olindo and Sofronia, by Luca Giordano. An Annunciation, by Luigi Caracci. Two winter scenes by Brueghel. An Adoration, by P. Veronese. S. Gerolamo before the Cross, by Luca d'Olando. The Raising of Lazarus, by Caravaggio. S. Sebastian, by Guido Reni. Mary and Infant, by Strozzi. The 7th room, Stanza d'Autunno. — Fresco by Domenico Piola. Portrait by Leandro Bassano. Adoration of the Magi, by Bonifazio, Madonna and S. Mark, by Guido Reni. Crowning of Mary, by Guercino. Portrait by Tintoretto. Portrait of Dr. Francesco Filetto, by Gian Bellini. The 8th room, Stanza dell' Inverno. — Frescoes by Domenico Piola, and decorations by Michele Canzio. Judith, by P. Veronese. The Condemned, by Giacomo Bassano. Virgin and Child, said to be by Murillo. Portrait by P. Bordone. Portrait by P. P. Rubens. S. Giambattista, by Leonardo da Vinci. Mary and Child, by Bernardo Strozzi. Mary with Saints, by G. C Procaccini. S. Rocco, by Domenico Zampieri (il Domenichino). Holy Famil}^, by Pellegi-o Piola. The 9th room. Stanza della vita dell' uomo, the last of the beautiful galleries. — Frescoes by G. A. Carloue. Decorations by Andrea Leoncino. *Portrait of a Spaniard, and portrait of Geronima Brignole- Sale with her daughter, by Van Dyck. Portrait of a young lady, and an Assumption, by P. Veronese. Two portraits of Apostles, by Pro- caccini. Mary and Child and St. John, by Pierin del Vaga. Many more frescoes and pictures are in the other rooms. At No. 9 Via Balbi is the Palazzo del Municipio (Town-hall), foimerly the Palazzo Doria-Tiu-si, founded in 1564 by Nicolo Grimaldi, Duca di Salemo, and designed by Rocco Lurago. The marble decorations and columns are chiefly by Giovanni Lurago and Giacomo and Pietro Carlone. In 1593 this mansion came into the possession of Gio. 128 Genoa. Palazzo del Municipio. Palazzo Sei^a. Audrea Doria, Duca di Tursi, in 1838 into that of the Jesuits, and in 1S4S it became the property of Genoa. The facade with its decora- tions and statues is by Giambattista Orsolino and Taddeo Carlone. On the Avails of the vestibule and ground floor are frescoes by Castello and D. Piola representing scenes from the life of the Doge Grimaldi and other events in the early history of Genoa. In the coui't is a marble statue of Giuseppe Mazzini by Santo Saccomanni, presented by Luigi Ruggero. In a niche on the staircase is a statue by B. di Novo of Cattaneo Pinello, and on the walls frescoes by G. B. Carlone, D. Piola, and Tavarone from old churches. Upstairs all the rooms and galleries are open to the public excepting "il grande salone del Consiglio," the Salotto Rossi and the Salone Verde; but they are shoAvn for a small gratuity. The roof of the Salone del Consiglio (council-chamber) is covered with a fresco by Francesco Gandolfo, representing Columbus presenting to the king and queen of Spain the productions of America. Behind the president's chair are the marble busts of Umberto I. and Vittorio Emanuele II. by Santo Varno, and a bronze bust of Garibaldi by D. Paernio, On the end wall, two large porti'aits in mosaic of Marco Polo and Columbus, by Salviati of Venice, presented by that city to Genoa when Venice was united to Italy in 1866. To the left of the council- chamber is the Salotto Rosso, or the red saloon. In a cabinet, carefully preserved, are the violin and a miniature of Paganini, and the scimitar and belt of Admii^al Nino Bixio. On the wall, photogi-aphs of letters of Columbus, and in a marble frame the famous bronze tablet of a.d. 117, found in 1506 in the Val di Polcevera, recording the judgment of Roman arbiters in a dispute between the Genoese and the Veturi about their respective boundaries. Among the pictures are : a Triptych, Mary and the Magi, Mary and Child with bunch of grapes and two saints, by Gerard David of Bruges, from the church of Cervara near Portotino, and The Baptism of Christ, by L. Borzone. The ceiling was painted in fresco in 1821 by Fea. In the Salone Verde are pictures connected with the history of Genoa. At Xo. 12 Via Garibaldi is the Palazzo Serra, called also the Palazzo Verde, built in 1552 by Galeazzo Alessi for the Salvaghi family, but now the property of the Spinolas. Towards the end of tlie 18th century the interior was remodelled and restored by De Wailly (d. 1798) and Andrea Tagliafichi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments are excellent, and many are beautifully painted in fresco. The ceiling of the tirst anteroom is by Andrea Semino, and represents the funeral games instituted by ^'Eneas in honour of Anchises. The " Sala Grande," or the Sala del Sole, named thus because San JIaiteo. Palazzo Giorgio-Doria. 129 so brilliant with gilding, mirrors, and bright marbles, is the grandest part of the palace. The fresco on the ceiling, by A. F. Calet, re- presents the glorification of Ambrogio Spinola. The architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt by G. Beauvais. The dining-room (sala da pranzo), oval in form, was designed by Tagliafichi, and the fresco on the ceiling was painted by Giuseppe Galeotti. San Matteo. From the low side of the Piazza de Ferrari, the Salita de S. Matteo leads down to the church and piazza of S. Matteo, occupied by houses built in the 15th cent, by members of the Doria family. S. Matteo was founded by Martino Doria in the 12th century. The facade, built in the next century, is covered with inscriptions to the memory of the Dorias. An ancient sarcophagus, with an inscrip- tion in honour of Lamba Doria, is under the right-hand window of the fa9ade, right side. The representation of S. Matthew over the entrance is one of the few specimens of mosaic of the 13th cent. In 1278 the whole tribuna was moved back several yards without injury, to lengthen the church. In 1530 Giovanni Angelo Montorsoli, pupil of Michael Angelo, made, by A. Doria's instructions, great alterations on the interior of the church. By him are the statue of the Redeemer above the "tribuna," the Pieta and the statues of saints and prophets in the choir, the two pulpits, the balustrade of the organ loft, etc. His principal work, however, is the monumental tomb of Andrea Doria in the crypt, under the high altar. Above the canopy over the high altar stands the sword given to Andrea Doria by Pope Paul III. in 1535. The cloister of the church has a hundred double colonnettes by Marco Veneto. The two fragments of colossal statues represent mem- bers of the Doria family. The Palazzo Adorno-Cattaneo, Xo. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though small display of paintings. The same may be said of No. 5 in the same street, the P. Spinola, with frescoes by Calvi and Savarone. At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the Palazzo Giorgio-Doria, founded in 1560 by the Spinola family. The facade is modern. It contains some handsome halls, a beautiful mantelpiece of the middle of the 1 6th cent, by Bergamasco and Giacomo Paracca, frescoes by Andrea Semino and Luca Cambiaso, and pictures by Bassano, Bordone, Cappuccino, A. Cara- vacci, Domenichino, Guercino, Procaccino, Guido Reni, Tintoretto, A"an Dyck, P. Veronese and Leonardo da Vinci (?) portrait of the Duchessa Beatrice Sforza. 130 Genoa. Via Roma. Accademia. "We now enter the Piazza de Ferrari with its numerous omnibuses, by which we may get to any part of Genoa for a few halfpence (p. 120). From this piazza commences the most handsome street in Genoa, the Via Roma, with the post-office and the arcade. It ascends to the finest walks and most beautiful parts of the city, having on the left the beautiful little hill the Villetta di Is'egi'O ; and from behind the statue to Y. Emanuele at the head of the Via Roma, the electric tram ascends to the Piazza Manin, 2 sous. In the Piazza Ferrari are the principal theatre and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, built by Carlo Barabino. On the first floor is the Biblioteca Civica with 50,000 vols., founded in 1824. On the second are the assembly hall of the members, the studj^ rooms, and the collections of pictures, models and casts of famous statues. Shown by keeper. Gratuity. In the Piazza Nuova is S. Ambrogio. The interior has a soiled appearance though lined with marble and ornamented with frescoes. The only good pictures are kept covered. Over the high altar are "Mary and Child," both with gilt crowns, by Rubens. In the third chapel right, an Assumption by G. Reni, and third chapel left, Ignatius healing one possessed Avitli devils, by Rubens. Second chapel left, "Martyrdom of S. Andrew," by Semino. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carlone and Galeotto. The confessionals are elaborately carved, but full of dust. The large building to the right is the former ducal palace, now the Prefettura. This, the ancient residence of the doges of Genoa, was designed and commenced by Marin Boccanegra in 1291, and finished in 1548 by Andrea Ceresola, called "il Vannone." The tower as it now exists was finished in 1539 and its big bell founded in 1570. On the 3rd November 1777 a large part was destroyed by fire. The wings were added in the middle of the present century, when the building was also repaired. The grand reception-room upstairs is ornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena marble. From the windows is seen the Torre degli Embriaci, constructed entirely of hewn stone by Guglielmo Embriaco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used by Godfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem. The tower is in a corner to the left of the entrance into the church of S. Maria di Castello, founded in 1000, but not con- secrated till 1237. See p. 132. By the side of the ducal palace is the Cathedral S. Lorenzo, con- secrated by Pope Gelasio II. in 1118 and repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are of black and white marble in alternate bands. The facade consists of three large portals resting on spiral, plain, and Cathedral of San Lorenzo. 131 twisted columns. The arch of the centre porch has an immense span bordered by bold fascicled work, while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. La^vrence in relief. In the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separated from the aisles by sombre-coloured pillars supporting pointed arches, over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choir has frescoes by Tavarone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed in the 16th cent. The principal object, however, in this church is the cJmpel of St. John the Baptist, in the centre of the left aisle. It was built in 1490, and ornamented with 8 statues in niches by G. Porta, M. Civitali, and Andrea Sansovino, of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his official robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Eve by Civitali was originally nude till clothed by Eavaschio. Under a canopy supported by four porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to contain the ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of the right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by Van Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name of the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was brought in 1101 by Guglielmo Embriaco from Csesarea, in Palestine, and tradition asserts that it had been presented by the queen of Sheba to Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb with his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald ; but as it was suspected to be only glass, a law was passed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance to the vase he should suffer death. Below the cathedral at the foot of the A^ia S. Lorenzo is a cab-stand, whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Park to the Via di Circonvallazione, a monte commanding a series of beautiful views of Genoa. From the Piazza Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carig- nano, passing through the Acqua Sola Park, 30 c. S. Maria in Carignano, built 1555-1603 after designs by Galeazzo Alessi, is 165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues of Maiy, Peter and Paul, above the entrance, are by David. Of the four colossal statues below the dome, S. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by Puget ; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best ot the paintings (covered) are — St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with SS. Francis and Charles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross by Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the highest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an excellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omni- bus in the square goes to the Acqua Sola Park. 132 Genoa. Daniel O'Connell Chrutopher Columhus. From the Piazza Fontane Morose descends to the Port the most important street or lane in Old Genoa, the Sestiere della Maddalena, AAdth the best shops, especially those of the jewellers. At the foot is the Bourse, surrounded by the offices of the best money-changers. A little below the lower or the southern side of the Bourse, at No. 12 of the Via Ponte Reale, is the house, then the Hotel Trombetta, in which Daniel O'Connell died on the 15tli May 184/, as a tablet, with his portrait in relief by Fed. Fabiano, informs us. He arrived at Genoa on the 6th of May 1847, on his way to Rome. During the first two days his health seemed to be improving, but on the third symptoms of a very alarming nature began to develop themselves, and to dispel all hope of recovery. On the 15th of May, in the dead of night, the cardinal archbishop, a man of 88 years, came with all possible haste with the viaticum, the provision, or consecrated wafer, to prepare the passing soul for departure. Although completely prostrate he received it in full command of his senses. AVith the Greeks it was considered equally necessary to put an obolus into the mouth of the dead, to pay the ferryman in Hades. Before the body was sent to Ireland it was taken to the church of X. S. delle Vigne and laid before her own image and altar, so that ' ' Our Lady, whom he had so honoured in his life, would have him still in her keeping after death. " This chapel is to the right of the high altar, on which is a cimous brazen image of N. S. della Citta. To go to the Vigne church, ascend from the Bourse to the third lane left, the Vico alia chiesa delle Vigne. While in this quarter, continue the street in the Port under the arcade to the Piazza Cavour, where take the first ascending lane left, the Vico dei Mattoni Rossi, called also di Bernardo, then third lane right, the Vico S. Biagio, leading to S. Maria di Castello, with the Embriaci tower, p. 130. This is an interesting part of Genoa. Another interesting part of Genoa is the south-east quarter, from the Piazza de Ferrari to the Bisagno by the beautiful new street the Via Venti Settembre. At the fifth opening right hand in the Via 20 Settembre is the wide entrance to the Vico dritto di Ponticello (the straight lane of Ponticello), where stood the house on the site of No. 37 in which Christopher Columbus was born in 1445 or 1446. According to a register dated 22nd February 1498, he declares positively that he was born in Genoa, ' ' perche io Christ. Colombo in Genova nacqui e de la venni " (for I Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa and came from there). He was the eldest son of Dominico Colombo and Suzanna Fontanarossa. The father was a weaver of some small means, who in 1469 removed his busi- ness from Genoa to Savona. Christopher was sent to the university of Staglieno Cemetery. J 35 Pavia, where he received instruction in nautical astronomy and in the natural sciences. On his removal from the university he worked for some months at his father's trade ; but on reaching his loth year he made his choice of life and became a sailor. He died unheeded and forgotten in ValladoM 21st May 1506. On the other side of the Via 20 Settembre is the Ospedale Pamnia- tone, a vast edifice contiguous to the Acqua Sola Park, commenced in 1420 and finished after the plans of I. A. Orsolino in 1758. South- wards is the Regio Manicomio or asylum for the insane, a circular building with six radiating wings. Two miles from Genoa by the west side of the Bisagno is the Campo Santo, or the Staglieno Cemetery, approached by omnibus every ^ hour from the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to the Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities of the mountain-sides for nearly 15 miles. The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and 820 ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of 149 marble arches with a span of 21 ft., and 18^ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground sur- rounded by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all that money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service to the feelings of bereaved friends by perpetuating the memory of those they have lost in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovely statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medley contents of many sculpture galleries. Above this rise other two galleries, and behind the second on the hill- side is another large piece of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77 long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of dark greenstone from the quarries of Pegli, is the Mortuary Chapel, 82 ft. in diameter, consisting of a great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of black marble 32^ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior are colossal statues of Bible personages, beginning with Adam by Lorenzo Orengo, Eve by Giambattista Villa, Moses by Giam. Tassara, Ezekiel by Em. Giacobbe, Daniel by Pietro Costa, the apostle John by Domenico Gallino, the archangel Michael by Santo 13-i jVovi. Alessandria. Varni, and the Virgin Mary by Domenico Carli. The high altar, in the centre of the temple, is of the finest white Serravezza marble. Other four altars are round the walls. The facade rests on six white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structures of galleries, stairs, walls and floors are arched into cells and vaults for the dead. Genoa to Turin by Novi, Alessandria, and Asti. 103^ m. north. Time by express, Zk hours. First -class, 20 frs. 65 c. Second, 14 frs. 45 c. The express stops 20 minutes at Alessandria, 6 at Novi, and 3 at Asti. Map, p. 103. Genoa (p. 118). — The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at the busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1:^ m. W. from Genoa and 2| m. E. from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valley of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels. Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives at Busalla, 14^ m. N. from Genoa and 89| m. S. from Turin. Busalla is situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28^ or 35 in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390 yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia. 33^ m. N. from Genoa and 69| m. S. from Turin is Novi ; Hotel Novi ; a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills ; where on August 15, 1799, a great battle took place between the French under Joubert and the Austrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and their general killed. Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortona, Voghera, and Pavia. 57| m. E. from Turin and 46 m. X. from Genoa is Alessandria, pop. 31,000, 234| m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja, and 67| m. N. by branch line to Savona by Acqui (p. 83). See map of Italian Riviera, p. 103. At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready. Hotels : L'Universo e Italia : *Europa. Alessandria received its name in compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a fa9ade in the modern taste, with granite columns ; in the interior is a colossal statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di Loreto Asti. JSWvi. 135 and S. Lorenzo. The Glulino palace, now belonging to the crown, was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually at Alessandria — one in April, the other in October. In the neighboui'hood is the village of ]\Iarengo, near which took place (June 1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellerniann. From Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone ; then at 35^ m. E. from Turin and 67| m. N.W. from Genoa arrives at Asti (the Hasta Pompeii, or Pompey's Market, of the Latins), a place of 18,000 inhabitants. H. Leone d'Oro. Celebrated for its sparkling wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by mono- lithic columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta Alessandiia is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting on short columns Avith square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neigh- bourhood are very rich in fossils. Branch line from Asti to ^lilan by Casale and Mortara, 78^ m. N.E. (see map, p. 103). 27 miles W. from Asti is Trofaxello, 8 miles W. from Turin, junction Avith branch lines to Torre -Pellice, the principal station of the Waldenses (Black's South- France, East-Half). Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. Overlooking the town is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel L died in 1823. For Turin see Black's South-France, East -Half. Branch line to Pinerolo, 23^ m. S.W., and to Torre- Pellice, 10| m. farther W., in the Waldensian valleys. 57 m. S. by rail from Turin is Robilante, 11 m. S. from Cuneo and 5 m. N. from Limone, 3668 ft. above the, sea, at the mouth of the Col di Tenda tunnel (see p. 81). The Riviera di Levante ; or, Genoa to Pisa. GENOA Distance 102^ miles, time 4 hours by " direct" train. Fare PISA MILES FROM 20J frs. OF 15 ffs. 23 SOUS. Maps, pp. 115, 139, and fly-leaf, miles to GENOA, — The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, -~^ with the exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated between Nervi and Rapallo. 7.*- 95 ^l' XERVI, pop. 3100. Well sheltered from the cold winds of ^^ winter by precipitous mountains, covered at the base -with vineyards, orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones by olive, fig and 136 Nervi. Recco. Ruta. peach tree groves. There are three first-class hotels. The first is the *H6tel Eden, a large square house with gi'ounds facing the south and sloping gently down to the sea. Behind the hotel rises a steep mountain covered Avith thriving olive trees. The fa9ade to the south has five stories above the gi'ound floor, communicating with each other by a lift and easy flights of staii'S. Each story has a row of 21 windows. R. etc. 5 to 10 frs., D. 5 frs. But here as in the other hotels there is a "pension" price, for a stay of at least a week, which should be arranged at once with the landlord. The Episcopal service is held in the Eden Hotel every Sunday. Near the Eden and oft' the Via Garibaldi is the *Grand Hotel, with a similar but better and more luxuriant park and garden than the Eden. Charges much the same. Opposite the station and also in its own grounds is the *G. H. Victoria, Avhose charges are rather lower than those of the other two. The following are smaller. Behind the H. Victoria is the Hotel Suisse, and opposite it the Hotel Xervi. The bus-trams to Genoa pass their doors. On the side of the mountain, 100 ft. above the Grand Hotel, is the H. Belle Vue, admirably situated, 8 to 10 frs. per day, in- cluding wine. Among the more homely pensions may be mentioned the Villas Sanitas, Lindenberg, and Piccolo Eden. The mild but tonic winter climate of Xervi has for some years been attracting every season an increasing number of visitors. Tram every quarter-hour to and from Genoa. English doctors. Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one con- tinuous narrow street, 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and walls. In front is the sea, and behind to the north rise steep sheltering hills covered with olive trees and studded with churches and cottages. Three miles beyond Bogliasco is Sori, most curiously situated below the station, in a valley crossed by the lofty viaduct of the line. 13 m. from Genoa and 5| from Nervi is Recco, pop. 2000 ; Intis : Colombo : Pace ; situated at the opening of the valley of the stream Recco to the sea, below the railway viaduct, which crosses the valley. The streets are rather narrow, tolerably paved, and none very steep. The principal church is dedicated to John the Baptist. In the interior columns of striped red and white fluted marbles A\-ith gilded capitals support the roof, partially domed. No street extends along the beach. Bus at Recco station for Ruta, a little village up a mountain in the square promontory of Portofino. 2| m. E. 12 sous. Hotel Italic, a small house in a fascinating and healthy situation, commanding splendid views. Pension not less than a week, 6 to 8 frs. , including everything ; coflee in the morning and wine at lunch and dinner. Camogli. S. Margherita. Portofino. 137 But arrange on entering. An easy path leads up through the church side of the village to the top of Monte Ruta ; whence a path leads to Monte Portofino 2010 ft. above the sea — be it remembered that mountains on the Riviera are actually much higher than mountains inland of the same number of feet, because the Riviera mountains begin from the sea, while the inland mountains rise from various points above the sea. A light bus awaits certain trains at the Recco station for Uscio, north from Ruta. li m. beyond Recco is Camogli (at the commencement of the pro- montory), pop. 2000, built on the slope of the mountain descending from Ruta, several of its villas and farmhouses reaching Ruta. The streets are parallel to the beach, and, like the high houses on each side of them, poor and untidy. Steep ramps and steeper stairs connect these lanes at different levels with each other. There is a small harbour, but little traffic. The beach is composed of coarse shingle and is very steep, a mere continuation of the mountain slope. From Camogli at the west side of the promontory the rail passes by a tunnel to S. Margherita on the eastern side, \1\ m. E. from Genoa and 85 m. "\y. from Pisa. Hotel bus at station, and also bus for Portofino, 5 sous. S. Margherita, Ligure, pop. 3800. Hotels. — On an eminence the * Grand Hotel with garden, 9 to 12 frs. On the beach, the Hotel Bellevue, 8 to 9 frs. with wine. The town is pleasantly situated im- mediately below the station, at the head of a little bay, with good and safe bathing and boating. The drive to Portofino, 3| m. S., is very pleasant. The road winds round a constant succession of towering capes enclosing tiny bays wooded to the water's edge and fringed with golden sand. Out of the blue crystalline water rise here and there great needle-shaped rocks, too sharp and perpendicular for even the nests of sea-gulls. Enclosed in one of these miniature bays at the S.E. extremity of the promontory, and at the foot of steep hills, is the small fishing village of Portofino with two inns. One is called the Piccolo Hotel and the other the Albergo Delfino. On the summit of the projecting point into the sea is the old castle now transformed into the Villa Castello di Pagi. A little lower is the chapel of St. George, and on the highest part of the ridge is the villa, formerly of the late Lord Carnarvon, commanding a splendid view of the coast, east and west. At the " Place " where the omnibus stops is the parish church, which may be called magnificent for such a poor village. In the neighbourhood are several handsome villas. The omnibus runs frequently between Portofino and S. Mar- gherita and the station. 138 Rapallo. Chidvari. Sestri Levante. 18 J 84 — ^ RAPALLO, pop. 3000, 1 hour from Genoa, 15 min. from -v- Chiavari. *H. et P. Europe, 7 to 10 frs. : opposite it, the Albergo and Pension Posta, 7 to 10 frs,, with Episcopal chapel. Bus at station. Albergo Rosa Bianca Pension, 6 frs. Rapallo is a little seaport in a small bay backed by a semicircle of mountains, 2 miles from Santa Margherita by the low road. Olive oil and lace-making are the prin- cipal industries. In the neighbom-hood are many beautiful walks. Among the best, but not the least laborious, is to Mount Telegraph, 1800 ft., for the views. Return through a forest of umbrella pines by Portofino. Another is to the san-ctuary of the Madonna di Montallegro, 2015 ft., of which the treasure is a small picture of her "brought here in 1557 by unseen hands." "The district between Rapallo and Chiavari is one of the most beautiful in Italy, and should, if possible, be traversed by carriage (one horse 8 frs., two horse 12 frs., in about 2 hrs.) " — Baedeker. Between Rapallo and the next station Zoagli, '2\ m. E., the line traverses a succession of tunnels ; but the coach-road makes a most beautiful drive all the way to Chiavari, 5^ miles from Rapallo. V-V-' CHIAVARI, pop. 8000, on the Entella. Hotels : Xegrino : -^ Fenice. Public coaches to places in neighbourhood. So well built is this, one of the best towns on the coast, that the only edifice that suffered from the earthquake of 1887 was the town hall, ap- parently the most solid. Near the station is the highly ornamented church of S. Mary, with a "venerated" picture over the altar. At Lavagna, 1^ m. E., is one of the best Renaissance churches in the district ; while 1 m. farther is the Lombardic church of S. Salvadore, built in 1252. Chiavari manufactures lace, and chairs of light wood with twisted straw seats, plain and coloured. From Chiavari the ascent is made of Monte Penna 5690 ft., 9 to 10 hrs. Sinibaldo de Fieschi, Innocent IV., pope from 1243 to 1254, was born at Lavagna, the ancestral seat of his family, the Counts Fieschi. He passed for one of the best canonists of his time ; but was a small-souled man, whose avarice, cowardice, cunning and vindictiveness suggest a striking contrast with Innocent III., whose example he seems at first to have desired to imitate. 28 74i ^-^ SESTRI LEVANTE, pop. 2700, another of the better little ^^ towns between Genoa and Pisa, built partly on a bay and i)artly on a promontory projecting into the sea. Hotels. — The Grand Hotel, a good and handsome house with small garden and terrace fronting the beach. R. etc. from 3 frs., D. 4 frs., wine U fr. H. Europe, close 4^312 -^ / 4042 K ;iA TO CARRARA CCA A^^D PISA i^ng HsK Miles JixLoTnetfcs SPEZIA TO CARRARA LUCCA AND PISA Spezia. Shelley. 139 to the sea, 7 to 8 frs. H. Angleterre, the same. Bus-trams starting from near the Grand Hotel run between Sestri, Lavagna and Chiavara. The railway between Sestri and Spezia, 29 miles, traverses an almost continuous tunnel, with here and there rapid glimpses of beautiful rock and sea scenery mixed with big plain houses pictur- esquely huddled together. The drive by the high-road between Sestri and Spezia is beautiful. A carriage with two horses, including gratuity to driver, 50 frs. Time about 8 hours, allowing a rest at the Cafe Conti at Berghetto. To walk it requires from 13 to 14 hours. 35 m. from Genoa and 21 from Spezia is Moneglia station and town of considerable size. "Women frequently act as porters at the station. Six miles farther is Bonassola in a well-sheltered situation. 43 m. from Genoa and 13i m. W. from Spezia is Levanto, pop. 2000, Hotel et Pension Levanto, 6 frs. including wine, fronting the park and close to the beach. From the hotel commences the principal street, the Via Vit. Emanuele, which from the bend to the end takes the name of Garibaldi. At the termination two roads lead up to the moimtains, which encircle the town and protect it from the cold blasts. The road ascending from the second bridge leads up to the parish church, and from it to the old double town-wall and to the castle, now a prison. After Levanto follow the minor stations of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, villages in most picturesque situations ; but composed of big comfortless houses. 4^ m. from Riomaggiore, 56^ m. from Genoa and 46 m. from Pisa, is Spezia, pop. 46, 000. The principal hotel is the * Grand Hotel and Croce di Malta at the head of the gulf, facing the sea. R. etc. 5 to 12 frs. , lunch 3 frs., D. 5 frs. with wine. Pension 7 to 12 frs. Below the arcade in front of the sea are : the Italia : the Roma : and the Bretagna, in all charges much the same. R. etc. 3i frs., lunch 2 frs., D. 3^ frs. In winter Episcopal service in the Croce di Malta. Baptist church in the Piazza Yittorio Emanuele. Methodist church in the Via Passano. Banca Nazionale, 1 Via Prione. Post and Telegraph Office in the Corso Cavour. Cats: The course, 1 horse 15 sous, 2 horses 1 fr. During the night, 1 horse 1 fr., 2 horses 1^ fr. Omnibus from station to hotel 1 fr. Town omnibus 6 sous. Tariff of the boats of the Croce di Malta. One man, first hour 2 frs., second hour 1^ fr. Two men, first hour 3 frs., second hour 2 frs. Steamboats leave Spezia at | to 12 for Lerici, fare 6 sous, calling at Pertusola, Lord Brassey's lead-smelting works, and at the village of San Terenzo. The house in San Terenzo Shelley occupied in 1822, the * Villa Magni, is the farthest east, the nearest to Lerici, on five arches, with five large windows opening on to a wide balcony over 140 Lerici. Porto Venere. Byron. the arches. It is now in a dilapidated condition, but must have had considerable pretensions in its day. It stands close to the sea, while behind are a draw-well and the remains of a garden on terraces, above which rises a wooded hill.^ The steamer returns to Spezia at 3, having remained at Lerici about '2\ hrs., long enough to visit the village and castle. The way up to it is by a ramp and 110 steps, commencing from the piazza. Then skirt the wall to the entrance gate, and ascend 33 steps to first platform, passing door of prison. Other 23 steps reach the second or highest platform, with grand view. Tram from Lerici to Yezzano b}'^ Areola. Near Lord Brassey's foundry the steamer passes through the N. E. opening of the "Diga Subacquea," below Fort Teresa, which just reaches the surface, so that the water ripples over it. It extends to Fort Santa Maria on the opposite side of the gulf, is 7220 ft. long, average depth 32 ft., and finished in 1860. Farther inland are the ship-building yards and dock (1^ acres) of San Bartolommeo, and immediately opposite (adjoining the arsenal) are the extensive marine artillery magazines of San Vito, covering an area of 100 acres. The arsenal, 3937 ft. long and 2460 wide, contains a dock covering 20 acres, and another 17 acres, and two careening basins 433 and 354 ft. long respectively. The founder of the arsenal was Admiral Chiodo, whose statue stands at the entrance. The Porto Venere steamer leaves and returns at the same time as the Lerici boat, calling on the way at Fezzano and Le Grazie. Fare 6 sous. Porto Venere is an old walled town consisting of an interesting narrow street. Beyond, on an eminence commanding a good view, are the ruins of the church of S. Pietro. From the doorway at the foot of the steps leading up to the church a path descends to the cave, which an inscription over the doorway states " inspired Lord Byron to write Tlie Corsair." His lordship had swum from S. Terenzo to this place. Beyond is the island of Palmaria, a penal settlement. Carriage with 2 horses from Spezia to Porto Venere and back, 12 frs. From Spezia to S. Terenzo and Lerici and back, 14 frs. Since the visitation of the cholera careful sanitary arrangements have been made, a copious supply of excellent drinking water has been brought to the town, and a new quarter adjoining the railway has been built at the expense of the city assisted by government, con- sisting of large blocks of well-ventilated houses, which are let to work- men at a low rate. In hot weather Spezia is a sea-bathing station, and 1 The house and ground is about to be sold and taken down. Intending pur- chasers should apply to Messrs. Coates, the proprietors of the Hotel Croix de Malte, who will manage the transaction on the most favourable terms for them. Spezia. Sarzana. 141 a Avinter station in cold weather. The olive tree grows freely j and produces a first-class oil. The highest neighbouring mountains are on the N.W. and W. side of Spezia. Seven miles N.W. in a dii'ect line is the highest, Mt. Mal- pertuso 2691 ft. , then approaching Spezia there are : Mounts Castello 2526 ft., Bandara 2467 ft., Capri 2580 ft., Grosso 2150 ft., Yercigoli 2428 ft., Parodi 2208 ft, Biasso 2051 ft., and di Santa Croce 1791 ft. To the N.E. and E. the mountains are lower, the highest being Monte Croce 1998 ft., and the next Mt. Vissegi 1795 ft., N. from Foce and N.W. from the village of Sarbia, 620 ft. above Spezia. Besides the drives to Lerici and Porto Yenere there are : to La Foce, 791 ft. above the sea, northwards by Sarbia and Vissegi ; whence re- turn by La Foce (2 horses 14 frs.) To Ricco, beyond La Foce, and back, 12 frs., 3 hrs. A splendid drive for a view is to the top of Monte Parodi 2208 ft. (2 horses 20 frs.) Another similar drive is to Fort Castellana 1627 ft., overlooking Ponto Yenere, commanding a gi-and view. The two principal drives eastward are to Bottagna and Areola, most picturesquely situated, overlooking the river Magra, which when in flood causes occasionally terrible disaster. Each of these drives costs, Avith 2 horses, 12 frs. A short but pleasant drive is to the village of Pitelli, about half way to Lerici, 2 horses 10 frs. Gratuity to driver is included in the above prices. The north and north-eastern portion of Spezia for about 3 miles is comparatively level, which renders it a good walking-place for invalids. The north-west, on the contrary, is rugged and hilly. The magnificent gulf called by the ancients Portus Lunae, and now the Gulf of Spezia, is described by Strabo as one of the finest harbo^^rs in the world, sur- rounded by high mountains and containing within itself many minor ports, two of which are noticed by Ptolemy, the Portus Yeneris (Porto Yenere) and the Portus Ericis (Lerici). From very early times the Portus Limae seems to have been resorted to on account of the mild- ness of its climate. The sandy hills of the whole of this region is covered with the Piuus pinea. The nuts of this pine, like those of the Araucanian pine, grow packed in small cones. The kernels are sweet and are eaten either raw or cooked like chestnuts. The Pinus pinaster is also indigenous. After Spezia the train crosses the Magra and arrives at 671 34a w^ SARZANA, pop. 14,500. Hotel: Londres. From Sarzana a ^^^ tram runs by Areola and Terenzo to Lerici. where it corresponds with the steamer to Spezia. This ancient town, with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, foiTnerly belonged to the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who 142 Luni. Marbles. Carrara. in the loth cent, ceded it to the Genoese in exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, bom in 1389, -who, from a simple monk, was elected pope in 1447 under the title of Nicholas V., and who constituted his native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning, the founder of the A'atican Library, and formed that alliance between the papacy and intellectual culture which subsisted during the next hundred years. He died 24th March 1455. The Bonaparte family dwelt in Sarzana till 1612, when they removed to Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, partly of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first street right, is the citadel, and about fifteen minutes farther the fortress built by Antelminelli, lord of Lucca, a low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking the railway. Both are partly in ruins, and well seen from the station, 3| m. E. from Sarzana and 13 m. E. from Spezia is Luni station ; the hamlet is about a mile towards the sea. For Luni cross the rail and walk down that narrow road (very bad in wet weather) to where a road ramifies from it to the left, and another to the right. The big house on the one to the left is Luni, and behind it, in the fields, bits of wall and the remains of a tower and of a small temple. The first historical notice of Luni, the Luna of the Romans, is its capture by Domitius Calvinus ; but the date of this event cannot be fixed %vith any approach to certainty. The first fact in its history of which there is positive information is the establishment here of a Roman colony in 177 B.C. Although it never was an important city, it was renowned for its wine and its cheeses, some of them 1000 lbs. But the chief celebrity of Luna was derived fi'om its white marble, in reality the Carrara marble, which was considered equal if not superior in quality to the finest Greek marbles. It is first mentioned as employed at Rome for building purposes in the time of Ccesar. From the age of Augustus onwards it was very extensively employed for statuary purposes, and was esteemed a finer material than the Parian. The buildings of Luna, even of its walls, were constructed wholly of Carrara marble. Dante, -writing after 1300, speaks of Luni as a city that had sunk gradually into complete decay, accelerated by the malaria, from which the neighbourhood sufi"ered. 72 30i w^ AVEXZA. Here enter branch line for Carrara 2>\ m. K.E. w,-' From Avenza to Pietrasanta there is a succession of marble works. Caxraxa, pop. 12,000, on the Carrione, formed by the union of rajnd streams descending the valleys, with valuable marble quarries. SKETCH MAP OFTHE CARRARA QUARRIES. ^ Mfffavaccione Ravaccione Sta. /493 \ ColonnataU. Colonnata Sta -^ Mf Battaglino^f / M^ Ronco% ^■'■^Ftuitiscritti Sta. / Co/agio Sta. Piastra Sta. 879- Para Sta J ■ ^^-^ [ ^Tarnone Sta. LBettogli Sta J Piane/lo Sta/ ° VTorano Sta Miseglia Stay 1 I'l'S* V\ /MisegiiCL^ rORANO '/ . • VV^ / ^ y 3SO , \^*S. / ^--<^ ^ ^2Jb.,. -ano 1 . ' J^/m^ \ ml Berliola •.*;** ^^^^ 1 Carrara. Quarries. 143 Hotel: the Posta, adjoining the post-ofiice and close to the Accademia. Italian Protestant chapel. Carrara is a healthy aud busy town, with good air and good water, and few mosquitoes. The great or rather sole occupation of the place is the hewing and transporting of marble. Studios and marble works of all sizes, fiom the modest little shop, whose owner makes himself what he sells, to the large works employing many hands. The marble of the exterior walls of the collegiate church of S. Andrea has become brown, while that of the interior is nearly black. The Accademia delle Belle Arti, founded by Napoleon I. , contains a collection of statues both copies and originals, by Carrara artists, and a relief representing Jupiter and Bacchus from the Fantiscritti mines, which were worked by the people of Luna. The marble quarries are in three narrow valleys which run up to a] semicircular ridge, whose culminating points are, Mt. Sagro, 5740 ft., and Mt. Grondifice, 5914 ft. There are about 450 quarries, employing about 6000 men in different ways. Road to the Quarries. — From the station cross the bridge, aud walk up the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a short arcade. The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream Torano, and the village of the same name, 1 mile from Carrara. The valley gradually becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble. To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio Silvestro, Polvaccio di Bettogli, 2290 ft., and the Mossa del Zampone, from all of which the Romans procured statuary marble. From Carrara a private railway on high terraces and with several tunnels connects the marble sta,tions in the different valleys. The first and oldest branch goes X. W. to Piastra station, at the foot of Mt. Crestola, Avith quarries of statuary marble, passing Torano station and Mt. Bettogli, having also statuary marble quarries. From Torano station, which is many feet above the village, com- mences the new line to Tarnone, whence one branch extends N. E. to Colonnata station, with quarries on Mt. Sagro, from which come the largest blocks. The other branch extends X.AV. from Tarnone to Ravaccione marble-quarry station, where the men rest and dine. Half- way between the two places are the oldest, the Fantiscritti quarries, which, though worked from the time of the Romans, still yield excel- lent blocks. The whole round on the engine takes about 6 hrs., including stoppages and driving backwards and forwards collecting and arranging the waggons. The best plan is to go no farther than Piastra, 144 Carrara Marble. Massa. keeping the same engine all the time. There is barely room for two on the engine, and permission has to be obtained from the chief engineer M. Giovanni Conti, who although most courteous and obliging, is often unable to give the desired permission even for one. Sometimes, but rarely, a carriage is attached to the waggons. To prevent disappointment write distinctly to M. Conti, asking when and at what o'clock he could give permission to \\s\t by the railway one of the quarries, and include an addressed and stamped envelope. Be provided with a good opera- glass, for there is some grand mountain scenery ; but also a good many tunnels. There are plenty quarries quite close to some of the stations, and all the quarries are worked in the same way. To ascend to those high above the stations over the slippery marble debris is a most arduous undertaking and not worth the trouble. The way to the office of the chief engineer, M. Giovanni Conti, is straight up from the hotel to the statue of Mazzini, when pass up by the left side of the statue the street Siradone San Francesco, then the first street right, the Via Roma ; whereat the foot of the first division, left side, a marble slab bears the following inscription : Ferro-Via- ^larmifera privata di Carrara. Direzione. First floor. The way from this to the station of the Ferro-Via-Marmifera is, from the top of the Via Roma take to the left, the Via Umberto, with houses on one side and a wall on the other. At the end of this street is a large gate with iron railings, which opens into the station of the marble-quarries railway. Among statuary marbles the first place may be assigned to the marble from the quarries of Mt. Pentelicus in Attica, the material in which Phidias, Praxiteles, and other Greek sculptors executed their principal works. The Elgin marbles in the British Museum afford a good specimen of the stone. Parian marble, quarried at Mt. Marpessa in the isle of Paros, was also much used by the Greek sculptors. The Venus de Medici is made of it. Carrara marble is found in the Apuan Alps, an offshoot of the Apennines. In it the finest works of ISIichael Angelo and Canova are executed. The purest varieties are of a snow-white colour and of a fine saccharoidal texture. Some geologists consider the marble strata of the Apuan Alps metamorphosed Triassic rocks ; while others are disposed to refer them to the Carboniferous system. TGir 26 _Jl massa, pop. 9000, about a mile from the railway, at the foot w^ of Mt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts. Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds, so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on the Serravezza. Pietrasanta. Viareggio. 145 Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in the gardens testify. H. Giappone. Bus at station. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant Avalks, both on the plain and up the valleys. The to^^^l is quiet ; with few workers and dealers in marble, the principal occupation being agi'icultural. The ducal palace in the square was once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon's sister ; now it is the prefecture, and the castle a prison. On the 18th of July 1822 the sea cast on the beach of Massa the corpse of Charles Vivian, Shelley's sailor-boy in the ill-fated Don Juan in its disastrous sail from Leghorn to Terenzo. The body was burnt on the shore and the ashes interred in the sand. 81 21^^ w,-' SERRAVEZZA. The quarries here produce lilac and violet- ■^^ coloured marbles Avith veins of a purple colour. A good road leads to them. 83 19- w^PIETRASAXTA, pop. 4000. Inn: Europa. A walled town,^;! with marble works. On the first large house, right hand of the square or piazza, a tablet infonns us that in it Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, "strinse nuovi contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze." S. Martino (13th cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all the churches in this neighbourhood. At the enti-ance opposite the Campanile (1380) in the Battisterio is a font formed out of an ancient Roman "tazza." In the interior of the church are handsome Serravezza marble columns and confessionals 16th cent. The pulpit and most of the sculptures in the choir are by Stagio Stagi. In the piazza between S. Martino and the unfinished church of S. Agostino, 14th cent., is the pinnacled and machicolated to"\\-n hall. 89- 13 w^VIAREGGIO, pop. 10,.500. West from the port, fronting the^-^ bathing establish nients, is a large piazza with evergreen oaks and pine trees, round which are the hotels : Commercio : Viareggio : Roma : Italia, small : Russie, in the best situation. Near the Russie is the Bretagne, small, a part fronts the beach. Close to the sea is Miss Hadden's Pension, 7 to 8 frs. The pension in the hotels is from 7 to 10 fi-s. with wine. The bathing establishments are platforms built over the sea, communicating with it by wooden steps. The beach is vast enough to bathe an army. The straight road westward, the \ia. Manin, by the beach, leads to the Foce dell' Abate, a small stream, which enters the sea about 2 m. from Viareggio, ' ' the gulfs of Spezia and Leghorn being at equal dis- tances from it." "Where this road ends a path commences to the 10 1-iG Shelley. Edward Williams. right, ^Yllk•ll, passing through the ^vood, reaches a ditch. Do not cross it, but waWi on till within some 20 yards of the Foce, in a sti'aight line Avith a hut next an abandoned fort on the other side of the river. At this spot, within 20 yards of the Foce, stood for many years the cross which marked the spot where Mr. Trelawny found the body of Shelley on the 22nd of July 1822, a fortnight after the Don Juan had foundered in a thunderstorm off Yiareggio. The yacht, a bad sea-boat, was on her way from Leghorn to Terenzo and had on board Shelley, Edward Williams, and a sailor boy, Charles Vivian. All were drowned. "Two bodies were found on the shore, one near Yiareggio, which I went and examined. The face and hands and the parts of Shelley's body not protected by his clothes, were flesliless. The tall slight figure, the jacket, the volume of ^Eschylus in one pocket and Keats' poems in the other, 'doubled back, as if the reader in the act of reading had hastily thrust it away, were all too familiar to me, to leave a doubt on my mind that this mutilated corpse was any other than Shelley's." — Trelawny's Records of Shelley. The cremation of the body was perfonned on the same spot in the presence of Lord Byi'on and Leigh Hunt. Shelley's ashes Avere taken to Rome and buried in the Protestant cemetery. The high peak to the right is Mt. Gabberi, one of the Carrara and Sen*avezza marble mountains standing in front of the spectator. The body of Edward Williams, Shelley's friend and companion; was found about 3 m. east (probably south from the Torre del Lago ; see map, p. 139), in a much more mutilated state and with no other covering than the shreds of a shirt, and that partly draAAm over the head as if he had been in the act of taking it off Avhen he AA-as droAA-ned. He Avas the only one of the three who could swim. It Avas calcined at the low Avail on the eastern side of the NuoAd Cantieri (shipbuilding yards) ; AA-hich, as Avell as the houses on each side of the canal-like stream, did not exist then, and the sea came up to the Avail. To get to it, cross the loAvest bridge and Avalk doAvn to the Cantieri by the Piazza Nuova. Tliere is no doubt about the spot Avhere Shelley's body Avas found ; and as regards Williams's, a man about sixty told me his father had been present at the cremation at the place Avhich I have endeavoured to indicate. In the principal piazza, the Piazza Paolina, a monument Avas erected to Shelley in 1894. Less than a mile E. from Yiareggio, and 10 miles W. from Pisa, is Torre del Lago station, almost a mile south from the marshy lake of Massaciuccoli, Avliich is 2 miles from north to south, and H mile from east to Avest. The most picturesque part of the lake is the north end, in the neighbourhood of tlie Roman ruins near the village of Quiesu. BAPTISTERY , ,.„.. ,||.|,n|||, p^rX3TT~it ^, l i»JM - ;' r7=5- ■ fiyi«rtt«l .8 1" \\ \'7? 1 ,.vith a tram station at the opposite side of the town from the railway station, p. 156. 3J m. farther is the station of Cascina, a pleasant little to\\Ti on the Arno. 12^ m. from Pisa is Pontedera, pop. 7000, on the Arno at its junction with the river and valley of the Era ; up which a carriage road extends 27 m. southwards to Volterra, pop. 7000 : Albergo Nazionale : situated on an eminence 1600 ft. above the Cathedral. Empoli. Vinci. 171 sea and surrounded by the massive remains of its ancient walls, 6 miles in circuit, constructed of huge blocks of sandstone, some 10 ft. by 3, in horizontal courses without cement. The most important relic of its Etrurian period is the Porta dell' Arno, an archway of a dark gray stone about 20 ft. high, with corbels ornamented with almost obliterated heads sculptured in the porphyritic stone from Monte Catini. The Museo Xazionale (adm. 1 fr.) contains a most valuable collection of terra-cotta and alabaster cinerary urns, on which reliefs exhibit and words describe in touching details the sorrows caused by the ruthless hand of death, or illustrate scenes of domestic life. The public library in the same building contains 14,000 volumes. The cathedral, consecrated in 1120, was enlarged and adorned in 1254 by Niccolo Pisano, and restored in the 16th cent, by L. Ricciarelli. The pulpit, 13th cent., is covered with reliefs and stands on 4 gi'anite columns rising from the backs of lions. In the south transept is the Sacrament chapel, with a Resurrection of Lazarus, by Santi di Tito in 1592. The altar was designed by Vasari, In the chapel of S. Octavian is the monumental tomb of that holy man, by whose inter- cession (it is said) the town was delivered from the plague of 1522. The Baptistery, supposed to date from the 7th cent., belongs largely to the 13th. The font is by Andrea Sansovino in 1502, and the ciborium by Mino da Fiesole in 1471. The citadel, now a house of correction, consists of two jmrts — the Rocca Vecchia, built in 1343 by Walter de Brienne, and the Rocca Nuova built by the Florentines in 1472. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the manufacture of vases and other ornaments from the beautiful alabaster found in the neighbourhood. Two miles from Pontedera station is La Rotta, then other 5 m. farther San Romano, both small villages. 23 m. E. from Pisa and 26 m. W. from Florence is San i\Iiniato dei Tedeschi, pop. 3000, with a conspicuous tower. The cathedral, dating from the 10th cent, and altered in the 15th, Avas embellished with statues in the 18th. 32^: m. E. from Pisa and 16| W. from Florence is Empoli, an im- portant station, where all the trains stop some time, pop. 6800 : Albergo del Sole : an ancient town, with mostly narrow sti'eets, on the Arno. From the station straight forward is a cross wide street, the V'ia Giuseppe, having at one end the principal piazza, containing the church of S. Maria di Fuori, with sculptures and some Robbia ware. At the other end of the Via Giuseppe is the collegiate chm'ch or cathedral, founded in 1093. To the right of the high altar is a marble statue of S. Sebastian, with two kneeling angels, by A. Rossellino in 1457. Above the altar is a lunette in Robbia ware representing God with cherubs. The principal industries of the town are the manu- facturing of cottons and macaroni, tanning and straw plaiting. A few miles north from Empoli is the walled village of A'inci, 172 Signa. Florence. where iu 1452 was bom Leonardo da Yinci, who excelled all of his generation in nearly every honourable attainment. This man, so extraordinarily gifted, was the son of a Florentine lawyer, born out of wedlock by a peasant mother. 3f m. E. from Empoli and 15| W. from Florence is Moutelupo station, and on the other side of the Arno, Capraja. Shortly after Montelupo the rail crosses the river and enters the narrow gorge of Gonfolina, where the engineers experienced very gi'eat difficulties in laying the line. Cypresses and stone pines clothe the heights and openings in the clitls, here composed of secondary sandstone strata, called in Florence Pietra forte, or, from its bluish-gi-ay colour, Pietra Serena, and is much used in buildings of all kinds. 9 m. W. from Florence is Signa, pop. 7000, where a gi-eat number of straw hats are made. See Black's Florence. The train having passed San Donnino arrives at the Stazione Centrale of Florence, 49 m. E. from Pisa by rail, in 1 hr. 34 min. by quickest train. Buses, cabs, and porters await passengers. Cabs from station to the hotels, 1 fr. At night, ] fr. 30 c. Trunks, 50 c. or ^ fr. each. The buses of most of the fii'st-class hotels charge each 1^ fr., the second-class from \ fr- to 1 fr. The new road from Florence to Vallombrosa, 22\ miles E. by the railway from the Florence central station to San EUero station 16^ miles E., 367 ft. above the sea. Fare 2 frs. 95 c. At San Ellero station take the cable tram to Saltino, 5 miles E., 1 hour, and 3156 ft. above the sea or 2789 ft. higher than S, Ellero. Fare 4 frs. Return 6 frs. At Saltino is a good hotel. From Saltino station a road to the left traverses a dense fir-wood to Vallombrosa 1:^ m. from Saltino. See Black's Florence. The first station on the cable tram is Donnini, 2^ m. from S. Ellero and 1099 feet above the sea. The next is Filiberti half a mile farther. The mountain opposite Vallombrosa is Monte Secchieta 4757 ft. See map, p. 161, and for time-tables use the Indicatore Ufficialc. under Fii-enze-Roma and S. EUero-Saltino. Sold at the station and in most of the news-shops. Price h, fr. INDEX TO THE EIVIERA AcQXTi 83 Agay 42 Airolo 104 Alassio 113 Albenga 114 Albissola 116 Alessandria 134 AUemagne 64 Alios 78 Anges N.D. 24 Annot 78 Antibes 65, 51 Apricale 105 Arenzano 116 Anna 112 Artigues 40 Asti 135 Aubagne 15 Aups 40 Auribeau 53 Auriol 15 Avenza 142 Azon II. 160 Baldalucco 112 Bandol 16 Bar 59 Barjols 40, 38, 64 Barrenie 63, 77 Baths of Acqui S3 of Berthemont 80 of Camoins 15 of Greoulx 64 of Lucca 164 of Monsummano 166 • — - of Montecatini 165 — — of S. Giuliano 159 of Valdieri SO — — of Vinadio 79 Bazaine 53 Beaulieu 84 Beausset 16 Belgentier 22 Belvedere 79 Berre Lake 13 Berthemont SO Beuze, Les 106 Bevera 104 Biot 66 Bocca d'Arno 157 Bogliasco 136 Bolzaneto 134 Bonaparte family 142 Bonassola 139 Bordighera 104 Borgio Verezzi 114 Bormes 36 Bossea cave 83 Bouillabaisse 7 Bouillidous springs 40 Breglio 82, 104 Brignoles 38 Broc, Le 61 Brun, Cap 22 Busalla 134 Bussana 112 Butterflies 33 C AGNES (6 Calci 156 Callas 41 Callian 41, 59 Camogli 137 Camoins 15 Campo-Rosso 105 Cannes 43 , Adalbert 48, 55 . Agents 47 . All.any, Duke 45 . Antibes 51 . Auribeau 53 . Banks 47 . Belvedere 49 . Booksellers 47 . Brougham, Lord 46, 47 . Cabs 47 mes — Californie 49 Canal 59 Cannet 50 Castelaras 53 Cave Baunie 43 Cemetery 48 Churches 46 Climate 48 Corniche 49 Croisette, La 51 Croix des Gardes 52 Drives 48 Edelweiss villa 45 Esterels 52 Hesperides 51 Hotels and Pensions 43 Charges 43 Incourdoules 50 Iron Mask 54 Lerins Islands 53 Mandelieu 52 Memorial church 45 Mouans-Sartoux 53 Mougins 53 Mount Vinaigre 52 Xapoule 52 X. D. d'Esperance 4S Observatories 49 Pegomas 53 Pottery 50, 49 Protestant churches 46 St. Anne 48 St. Cassien 52 St. Honorat 55 St. Marguerite 53 Steamers 47 Theoule 43, 52 Vallauris 49 Villa Nevada 45 Cannes Canal 59 Capraja 172 Index to the Riviera Carnoules 37 to Gardanne 3S CarqueyTanne 35 Carrara 142 <,'arros 61 (Jascina 170 Cassini G. D. 105 Cassis 16 Castelaras 53 Castellane 62, 77 Castellaro 112 Cast€l-Vittorio 106 Castiglione 101 CastiUon 101 Cavalaire 3(5 Cavaliere 36 Cave Baume 15 (Cauues) 43 Ceriale 114 Ceriana 109 Certosa di Pisa 156 Certosa di Pesio 83 Cervo 113 Chiavari 138 Cians 79 Ciotat 16 Claviers 41 Cogoleto 116 Cogolin 36 Col di Bi-aus 82 di Brouis 82 de Cerise 81 • ■ di Finestra SO di Fremamorta SO de Moulieres SO di Tenda 81, 83 Colla, La 106 Collobrieres 24, 37 Colomars 62, 78 Columbus 123, 132 Condaniine, La 89 Cork trees 32 Comigliano 118 Corsena 164 Coumies 59 Crau, La 23 Cuers 28, 24 Culinary terms viii Cuneo 83 Dalmazzo (Borgo) 80 Dalniazzo di Tenda 82 Dardenne 21 Diano Marina 113 Digne 63, 64 Doctors' fees 4 Dolce- Acqua 105 Donnini 172 Draguignau 40 Di-ap 82 Duranus 79 Empoli 171 Entraque 80 Entraunes 78 Entrevaux 78 Escarene 82 EscragnoUes 62 Esparron 40 Esterels 52 Eze 85 Fayexce 41 Filiberti 172 Finalmarina 114 Finestra SO Fish 3 Flayosc 40 Fontana 82 Fossette, La 36 Foux, La 36 Fragonard, J. H. 57 Fraisenet 39 Frejus 41 Fremamorta 80 Gallixaria 114 Gambling 27 Gambo 157 Gardanne 39 to Carnoules 38 Garde, La 22 Gattieres 61 Gaubert 77 Genoa 118 Accademia 130 Acquasola 119 Albergo dei Poveri 121 Cable tram 120 Cabs 119 Cafes 118 Campo-Santo 133 Cathedral 130 Columbus 123, 132 Electric tram 120 English Chui-ch 119 Hotels lis Lighthouse 123 Money-changers 119, 132 O'Connell 132 Omnibuses 120 Palaces 121 Palace Adorno - Cat- taneo 129 Balbi - Senarega 124 Doria 122 Ducale 130 Giorgio - Doria 129 Genoa— . Palace Marcello-Dur- azzo 124 . Municipio 127 . Reale 123 . Ilosso 126 . Serra 128 Spinola 126 . Universita 123 . Verde 123 . Post office 119 . Prefettura 130 Protestant churches 119 . S. Ambrogio 130 . S. Annunziata 125 . S. Carlo 123 . S. Maria in Carignano 131 . S. Maria di Castello 132 . S. Matteo 129 . S. Siro 125 . Shops 119 . Sights 119 . Stations 119 . Steamers 120 . Telegraph office 119 . Torre Embriaci 130 . Trams 121 . Via Circonvallazione al Monte 120 . Via Circonvallazione al Mare 120, 121 . Via Milano 123 . Villa Negro 119, 130 . Waldenaian church 119 Giaudola 32 Giens 34 . La Madrague 35 . Le Chateau 34 . Salt works 34 . Semaphore 35 Golf-Jouan 65 Gonfaron 24 Gourdon 59 Grasse 57 Greoulx 64 Grimaud 37, 39 Grotte de la Foux 59 Guillaumes 78 Heath pipes 33 Horner 158 Hotel prices 43 Hy&res 26 . Banks 27 Butterflies 2 Index to the Riviera Hyferes — . Cabs 27 . CaterpUlars 33 . Cemetery 31 . Charles of Anjou 30 . Chateau, Le 30 . Climate 34 . Clubs 27 . Coaches 2S . Cork trees 32 . Costebelle 26, 30 . Distances 26 . Drives 27 . English Pharmacy 21 . Episcopal Chapel 27 . Fenouillet, Mont 31 . Game 32 . Giens 34 . Golf ground 31 . Hermitage 30 . Hotels 26 . Jardin d'Acclimata- tion 30 . La Madrague 35 . La Plage 34 . Le Ceinturon 34 . Les Sal ins 35 . Maps 27, 21 Massillon 29 . Napoleon I. 30 . Oiseaux Monts 32 . Olive trees 32 . Omnibuses 28 . Palm sticks 33 . Palms 30 . Paradis, Mont 31 . Pauline, La 34, 37 . Pipes 33 . Potence 31 . Productions 33 . Reading mom 27 . Reptiles 33 . St. Louis 29 . St. Paul 29 , Salt 34 . Specialites 33 . Stage coaches 28 . Temple Protestant 27 . Town water 32 . Trou des Fees 32 . View from Le Cha- teau 30 If, island of 12 Ees de Lei'ins 53 Des d'Or or d'Hv^res 24 n Serraglio 164 ' Immortelles 16 Inoria 116 Iron Mask 54 Isola Buona 105 Italian towers 170 JouG DE l'Aigle 16 Jouques 40 Juan les Pius 65 La Bollene 79 La Ciotat 16 La Condamine 89 La Crau 23 La Garde 22 La Garde Fraisenet 39 La Gaude 61 Laguet 94 Laigueglia 113 Lake Alios 78 La Londe 35 La Madrague 35 La Malague IS Lampedusa 112 Lantosque 79 La Pauline 34, 37 La Rotta 171 La Seyne 17 La Turbie 93 Lavagna 138 La Valette 21 Lavandou 36 Leghorn 157 . Hats 159 Lemons 93 Le Pradet 22 Lerici 140 Les Arcs 39 Les Martigues 13 Les Moulins 92 Les Salins 35 Le Trayas 43 Levant, He du 26 Levanto 139 Limone 83, 81 Loano 114 Lorgues 40 Luc 39 Lucca 159 . Cabs 159 . Cathedral 161 . Hotels 159 . Picture Gallery 160 . Roj^al Family 160 . S. Frediano 163 . S. Giovanni 161 . S, Michele 163 . S. Romano 162 Lucca Baths 164 Luni 142 Magagnosc 59 Malaussene 79 Manarola 139 Mandelieu 52, 53 Manosque 65 Marble quarries 142 Marignaue 13 Marina of Pisa 157 Marseilles 4 . Anglican chapel 6 . Arc de Triomphe 9 . Bateaux Mouches 6 . Biblioth^que 6, 11 . Bishop Belsunce 9 . Boats' station 6 . Bonneviene 6 . Bouillabaisse 7 . Bourse 10 . Cabs 4 . Cafes 5 . Cathedral 9 . Charities 13 . Chateau Borely 7 . Commerce 13 . Consigne 9 . Corniche 7 . Custom-house 6 . Distances 4 . Ecole des Beaux Arts ,11 . Ecole Provencal 8 . Escape of "" Monte Christo 12 History 14 . Hotel de Ville 9 . Hotels 5 . If, island of 12 . Image by St. Luke 12 . Industries 13 . Joliette 6 . Lazarus' grave 11 Lighthouses 8 . Lougchamp 7 . Lycee 11 . Marignane 18 . Marseillaise, the 14 . Martigues 13 . Money-changers 6 . Museed'Archeologie7 . Xotre Dame 11, 10 . Observatory S . Opera 6 . Palais de Justice 10 . Longchamp 6 . Plans 5, 9 . Ports . Post 6 . Prefecture 10 . Reservoir 8 . St. Victor 11 . Shell-fish stalls 6 . Sights 6 . Steamboats 5 . Telegraph 6 Index to the Rivitra Marseilles — . Temple 6 . Trams 6, 12 . Zoological garden 6 Martigues 13 Mary Magdalene 16, 17, 39 Massa 144 Massaciuccoli 146 Massein 79 Menton 95 . Aununziata 99 . Banks 96 . Berceau 99 . Cabs 97 . Cape St. Martin 98 . Castellar 99 . Castellon 101 . Caves 97 . Chestnut valley 99 . Churches 97 . Ciotti 100 . Climate 102 . Drives 97 . Godart garden 100 . Gorbio 98 . Gourg-d'Ora 101 . Grimaldi 100 . Hanbury grounds 100 . Hotels 95 . Lemons 98 . Les Moulins 101 . Mont Baudon 98 . Monti 101 . Mortola 100 . Museum 98 . Queen Victoria 96, 100 . Roman Sepulchre 98 . St. Agnes 98 . St. Louis 99, 97 . Spurgeon 96 . Stations 95 . Tram 95 Meounes 22 Meyrargues 40 Mezel 77 Mistral 2 Monaco 86 Mondovi 83 Moneglia 139 Mons cave 59 Monsummano 166 Mont Agel 94 Coudon 18 Faron IS Verruca 156 Vinaigre 52 Montauroux 41, 59 Monte Carlo 90, 94 Grosso 116 Montecatini 165 Montelupo 172 Mouterosso 139 Montmej^au 64 Montrieux 23 Moriano 164 Mostaccini 105 Mougins 53 Mourillou 22 Moustiers Ste. Marie Mozzano 164 Nans 39 Napoleon I. 42, 62, 63 Napoule 43 Xavacchio 156 Nervi 135 Nice ^& . Amphitheatre 74 . Banks 69 . Booksellers 69 . Cabs 70 . Cafes 69 . Carabacel 67, 74 . Casino 73 . Caterina Segurana 72 . Cathedral 73 . Cemeteries 72 . Chateau, Le, 72 . Churches 69 . Cimiez 67, 74, 75 . Climate 70 . Column 73 . Confectioneries 69 . Contes 70 . Croix-de-Marbre 73 . Diligences 70 . Drives 75 . Electric tram 74 . Falicon 76 . Franciscan convent 74 . Gambetta 72 . Garibaldi 72 . Hotels and Pensions 66 , House agents 69 . Jardin Public 74 . Luther 73 . Massena 73 . Memorial chapel 73 . Mont Chauve 76 . Museum 74 . Observatory 77 . Paganiui 73 . Palais de Lascaris 73 . Pharmacies 69 . Post-office 69 . Promenade 66, 72 . Public library 69 . Racecourse 56 Nice— . St. Andr6 76 . St. Augustin 73 . St. Jean 70, 75, 85 . St. Pons 76 . Steamers 70 . Val-Obscur 75 . Vallon des Fleurs 75, 76 . Vallons 71 . Villa Clery 76 . Zoological garden 75 Nicholas V. 142 Noli 114 Norante 77 O'CONNELL 132 Olive tree 32 OUioules 16 Oneglia 113 Ospedaletti 106 Palmaria 140 Pas des Lanciers 13 Pauline, La 34, 37 Pegli 117 Pegomas 53 Penne, La 15 Perfumery 58 Perinaldo 105 Pertusola 139 Pesio 83 Petite Afrique 85 Peymeinade 41 PejTolles 40 Pierrefeu 23 Pietraligure 114 Pietrasanta 145 Pigna 106 Pignes 78 Piuuspinea 141 Pisa 147 . Baptistery 151 . BjTon 153 . Cabs 147 . Campo Santo 151 . Cathedral 149 . Cavalieri, church, 154 . Certosa 156 . Dempster 154 . Episcopal chapel 147 . Finch, John 154 . Galileo 149, 153 . Hotels 147 . Leaning tower 148 . Palazzo Toscanelli 153 . Post 148 . Roman baths 155 . S. Andrea 153 . Caterina 155 Inhj: to tJie Rivien Pisa— . S. Cristina 153 Domenico 153 . Madonna della Spina 155 . Pietro - a - Grado 157 . Rossore 157 . Stephen 154 . Telegraph 148 . Tram-station 148 . University 155 . Valle Calci 156 Verruca, Mont 156 Pistoia 166 Plage, La 34 Plan du Var 79 Pomponiana 35 Pont-du-Loiip, 59 Pontedera 170 Ponte Serchio 147 Ponteves 40 PorqueroUes 24 Port Bou 12 Port-Cros 25 Port Man 25 Portofino 137 Porto Maurizio 112 Venere 140 Pra 116 Pradet, La 22 Prato 169 Puget-Theniers VS Puymoisson 64 QOESU 146 Quinson 64 Rapallo 138 Recco 136 Reynier 17 Rians 40 Riez 63, 64 Rigoli 159 Rimplas 79 Riomaggiore 139 Riou Grotte 61 Rivarola 134 Riviera, the 1 . Climate 1 Cost of living 3 Doctors' fees 4 . Mistral 2 Provisions 3 Sea-bathing 4 . Sunshine 3 Vegetation 2 Robilante S3 Roccavione 80, 83 Roclier Blanc 61 Noir 61 RogJiette 40 Roquebillere SO Roquebrune 94 Roquotaillado tunnel 59 Rouget 14 Roumeiragi 52 Roumoulles 63 Royal family 160 Ruota 106 Rata 136 St. Agnes 98 Andre - de Meouilles Auban 60 Baume (Agay) 43 Baume (Bouches du Rhone) 15, 39 Benoit 78 — — Cesaire 59 Cyre 16 Helene 22 Honorat 53 Jean 84 Jeannet 61 — Marcel 15 Marguerita (Liguria) 187 Marguerite (Toulon) 22 Marguerite (island) 53 Martin 64 Martin (\^ar) 66 Martin-Vesubie SO Maxim e 37 Maximin 3S Menet 15 Xazaire 16 ■ Paul 61 Pietro in Grado 157 ■ Pilon 39, 16 Raphael 42 Sauveur (Tinee) 79 Terenzo 139 Tropez 37 Vallier 62 ■ Zacharie 15 Salernes 40 Salins, Les 35 Saltino 172 Sampierdarena 118, 134 San EUero 172 Giuliano 159 Giuseppe di Cairo 83 Miniato 171 San Bemo 107 . Banks 108 . Cabs 108 . Ceriana 109 San Remo — . Cliurches 108 . Climate 108 . Hotels 107 . Lampedusa 112 . Madonna 109 . Monte Bignone 110 . Poggio 109 . St. Romolo 110 . to Taggia 112 . Villa Zirio 107 San Rossore 157 Stefano 79 Stefano al Mare 112 Terenzo 139 Santa Zita 163 Santuario di Savona 116 Saorgio 82 Sarzana 141 Savona 115 Sea-bathing 4 Senez 03, 78 Serraglio, II 164 Serravezza 145 Sestri Levaute 138 Ponente 117 Seyne, La 17 Shelley 139, 146 Si^rna 172 Sillaus 40 Six Fours 17 Smollett 158 Sollies- Pont 22, 37 Sollies-Toucas 22 Sollies-Yille 37 Sori 136 Sospello 82, 102 Spezia 139 . Arsenal 140 . Cabs 139 . Churches 139 . Drives 141 . Hotels 139 . Lerici 140 . Lord Brassey 139 . Lord Byron 140 . Mountains 141 . Palmaria 140 . Porto Venere 140 . S. Terenzo 139 . Shelley's house 139 . Steamers 139 Spotorno 115 Spurgeon 96 Suque, Le 79 Taggia 112 Tamaris 17, 20 Taulanne 63 Index to the Riviera Tenda 82, 81 Toulon— Valette, La 21 Tuunel 81, 83 . St. Fraucios de Paul Vallauris 49 Tete-de-Chien 64 20 Vallombrosa 172 Theoule 43 . St. Mandrler 20 Var 66 Thorenc 62 . St. Marguerite 22 Yarages 40 Tinee, La 79 Smith, Sit- Sydney 19 Varazze 116 Torre del' Lago 146 . Steamers 18 Vegetables 3 Touet 82 . Temple Protestant 17 Venanson 80 . Town Hall 19 Vence 60, 66 Toulon 17 Vence-Cagnes 66 . Arsenal 17, 19 Tour Dramont 42 Ventiniiglia 103 Balaguier 20 Tourette 60 Verezzi 114 Belle-PoulQ IS Traconade 40 Vorne, La 24 Cabs 18 Trayas, Le 43 Verrerie, La 36 Cap Brun 22 Tremblant, Le 52 Viareggio 145 Cathedral 20 Trets 39 Villa 165 Dardenne 21 Trlnite- Victor 82 Villa Pallavicini 117 Diligences 22 Trofarello 135 Villafranche 84 Hotels 17 True Cross 169 Villars du Var 79 La Garde 22 Turbie, La 93 Vinadio 79 La Valette 21 Vinci 171 Le Pradet 22 Violets 61 Le Taniaris 17, 20 Uscio 137 Voltarra 170 Mont Faron 18 UteUe 79 Voltri 116 Xapoleon I. 19 Omnibuses 18 Port, the 18, 19 Valdieri so, 81, 79 WiN-E 24, 36, 61 Puget's house 19 Valdonne 15 Rue Lafayette 20 Valensolles 64 Sablettes 21 Valescure 42 ZOAGLI 138 THE END Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edhiburgh. 6 LONDON TO FRANCE, SWITZEELAND, ITALY, AND THE EIVIEEA, The shortest Sea and Mail Route is via Dover and Calais, which route is served entirely by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Company's magnificent Steamers, •• Calais- Douvres," " Empress," " Victoiia," and "Invicta," which make the crossing in 70 minutes. The London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Company run daily (Sundays included) four direct services to and from Italy, viz., two via Dover. Calais. Bale, and the St. Gothard Railway, and two via Dover. Calais, Paris, Mont Cenis, and Turin. The London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Company's London Stations are. " Victoria," '• Holborn Viaduct," and •• St. Paul's." The Hotels adjoining these Stations are, (Victoria) '• The Grosvenor Hotel," (Holborn) •' Holborn Viaduct Hotel," (St. Paul's) •' De Keyser's Royal Hotel." First Class Hotel and Restaurant on the Quay of Calais, wliere the Passengers change from the Steamer to the Train. At Paris, good Refreshment Room in the Gare du Nord, For the most trustworthy information regarding the different services, the through carriages, wagon-lits, ami '• voitures de luxe," see the official tables published by the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway Company in their Continental Time Book, sent free by post. Letters to be addressed to W. Forbes, Continental Manager of the I^ondon, Chatham, and Dover Railway, Victoria Station London, S.W. Copies of this Time Book can also be had from the following agents of the Company : — Bale Messrs. De Speyr & Cie., 56, Freie Strasse. Bologna Zanichelli's Library, Logge del Pavaglione. Brindisi Cook & Son, Strada Marina. Calais Capt. P.lomefield, Gare Maritime. Cannes Cook & Son, 71, Rue d'Antibes. vr r»i>T7xrr^T7 f Mcssrs. A. Lcmou & Co.. 19, Via Vigna Nuovo, i^LORENCE ^ ^ Seeber. 20, Via Tornabuoni. Genoa Donath's Libi-ary, 44. Via Luccoli. Leghorn A. Lemon & Co. Menton Cook & Son, 10, Avenue Victor Emmanuel Milan ' Cook & Son. 15. Piazza del Duomo. I Secretary, Grand Hotel, Piazza del Duomo. Monte Carlo ... Messrs. Smith & Co., Bankers. Naples Cook & Son, Piazza dei Martiri. Nice Cook & Son, l(i. Quai Massena. Padua Libraria All' Universita. Paris Capt. Churchward, 30. Boulevard des Italiens, Pq^j, j Cook & Son, IB, Piazza di Spagna. I A. Lemon & Co. Turin ' Cook & Son. Hotel Trombetta. ' ] liuigi Ajello, 7, Via Finanze. Venice Munster's Library, Piazza San Marco. Verona Libreria Alia Minerva. [turn over,] LOITDOIT TO TEE ZIZVIEZIA, Via Dover, Calais, A^'D Marseilles. WINTER SERVICE, 1895—1896. I Victoria 1 j HoLBORX >dep. St. Paul's ) j Dover ,, , Calais „ ; Paris (Nord) arr. ,r „ clep. Marseilles an\ Cannes „ Nice ,, Monte Carlo ,. Menton „ Ventimiglia ,, Bordighem ,, San Remo Through | Faiies, 1st Cl. & s.d. 19 1 10 9 2 16 11 14 8 11 11 16 11 18 1 18 7 19 8 j 1st Class. 1st Class. 1 Daily. Daily. 11 0a.m. 8 15p.m. 1 p.m. 10 l.'> ,, 3 „ 1 4 a.m. 7 ., 5 3S „ 7 44 „ , 6 23 „ » 9 51a.m.(23) 10 25 p.m. (27) 2 5 p.m.(27) 5 15 a.m. (32) 2 50 „ (28) 6 17 „ (33) 3 41 „ (29) 7 2."^ „ (34) 3 58 „ (29) 7 +2 „ (34) 4 28 „ (29) 8 5 „ (35) 6 14 „ (30) 11 28 .. (36) 6 33 „ (30) 11 47 .. (37) THE ETTIEZIA TO L02TS01T, Via Marseilles, Calais, and Dover. San Eemo dep. Bordighera ,, Ventimiglia ,, Menton „ Monte Carlo ,, Nice „ Cannes „ Marseilles „ Paris (Nord) arr. ^^ep. Calais „ Dover ,, HolborK ) Victoria J ^"' Daily. 1 25 p.m. 1 47 „ 2 2.. 2 26 „ 2 44 „ 3 25 „ 4 8 „ 8 17 „ 10 15 a.m. 11 50 „ 3 45 p.m. 5 45 „ 7 30 p.m. Daily. 8 26 p.m. 8 49 „ 8 45 „ 9 6 „ 1> 25 „ 10 30 „ 11 19 „ 3 40 ^.m. 7 49 p.m. 9 u „ 1 30 a.m. 4 „ 5 55 a.m. * The figures between brackets in these columns, and in those of the next t\vo.|)ages, show the approximate duration, in hours, of the journey from London. L017D0XT TO S'WZTZEBLAITD AITS ITALY, Via Doveb, CALAiJt, Bale, and the St. Gotharu Railway. Through ■Fares. 1st & 2nd Class 1st & 2nd Class 1st Class. Daily. Daily. £ s. d. Victoria \ HOLBORN L..dep. ... 11 a.m. 8 15 p.m. St. Paul's ! Dover „ 19 9 1 p.m. 10 15 ,, Calais „ 1 10 2 2 50 „ ^ 1 4 a.m. ^ Bale „ 5 11 7 25 a.m. (19) a 35 p.m. (22) Chiasso ,. 6. 16 10 7 18 4 5 p.m. 5 23 „ (30) 2 12 a.m. 6 10 a.m. Milan .7 52 „ (34) .2 52 p.m. Bologna „ 8 3 2 Florence „ 8 16 5 6 23 „ (42) ,6 25 „ (45) Rome arr. 10 6 5 10 30 ., (48) 11 3.0 „ (52) Brixdisi (via Foggia) „ 11 18 10 10 17 p.m. (59) 11 a.m. (62) BBZITDISZ TO L01TD02T, Via Dover, Calais, Bale, and the St. Gothard Railway. Brindisi dep Rome „ Florence „ Bologna „ Milan „ Chiasso „ Bale „ Calais „ Dover „ Victoria j Holborn I 6 10 a.m. (60) 8 50 p.m. (44) 9 5 „ (44) 1 35 a.m. 10 26 „ 12 5 p.m. (32) (20) arr.: 4 50 35 p, Oa, 30 p 15 25 10 a, 10 43 1 30 4 m. (62) m. (45) .m. (40) (33) (22) Calais-Bale. — 1st and 2n(l Class by both services ; also Sleeping Car and Coupe-lit-Toilette at 2.50 p.m. From Bale Through 1st and 2nd Class Carriages are run by certain Trains to Luino, Milan, Rome (via Florence), Rome, via Pisa. Sleeping Cars are also run from Bale to Milan, Genoa, Florence, and Rome. LOITSON TO FZIAITCE A2TI) ITALY, Via Dover, Calais, Modane, Mt. Cenis, and Turin. Victoria HOLBOEN [....dep. St. Paul's Dover „ Calais „ Paris (Lyon) ... arr. „ „ ... dep. Chambery an. Modane ,, Turin dep. Milan arr. Genoa dep. Florence arr. Rome ,, Brindisi Through Fares, 1st Class. £ s. d. 19 9 1 10 2 2 17 5 6 9 11 7 1 6 7 6 5 8 10 8 9 16 11 18 11 1st & 2nd Class Daily. 11 a.m. 1 p.m. 3 0., 8 21 „ 8 55 ,, 6 56 a.m. 9 43 „ ^ 2 45 p.m. (26) 5 35 ,, (30) 6 45 „ (31) 12 45 a.m. (37) 6 34 ,, (43) 10 17 p.m. (61) 1st & 2nd Class Daily. 8 15 p.m. 10 15 ,, 1 4 a.m. 7 15 „ 2 15 p.m. 12 50 a,m. 3 37 „ 8 40 11 40 12 42 p.m. (40) 6^ 54 ., (45) 11 30 „ (50) 11 a.m. (62) (35) (39) BEZITDZSZ TO LOITDOXT, Via Genoa. Turin. Modane. and Calais. Brindisi dep.' Rome „ Florence ,, Genoa „ Milan ,. Turin ,, Modane „ Paris (Lyon) arr ,, (Nord) dep Victoria j Holboen i 6 10 a.m. (60) 10 17 p.m. (43) a 46 a.m. 10 40 „ 2 20 p.m. 5 27 „ 6 5p a.m. 9 0., (32) (31) (27) arr.' 4 50 p.m. 5 35 p.m. (62) 8 10 a.m. (46) 11 45 „ (45) 7 7 p.m. (37) 8 18 „ (35) 11 25 „ (31) 2 21 a.m. 5 34 p.m. 9 0., 5 55 a.m. The P. & 0. Express leaves Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and St. Paul's Stations at 8.10 p.m. every Friday, via Dover, Calais, Parifi, Modane, and Turin, reaching Brindisi at 7.50 p.m. the following Sunday. This Train is served with Dining and Sleeping Cars, and the corresponding Train to London leaves Brindisi 2 hours after the arrival of the Indian Mail (P. & 0.) Steamers. * The figures between brackets show the approximate duration, in hours, of the journey from or to London. South Eastern "Railway. LONDON : Charing Cross and Cannon Street South Eastern, Northern of France, and Paris- Lyons and Mediterranean Railways. LONDON and the RIVIERA. W^INTER SERVICES, 1897-8. THrOllJII "BaPIDES" & "\m DE LUXE" SSRVICfIS FOLKESTONE & BOULOGNE AND DOVER, CALAIS & BOULOGNE. For Tickets and information, apply at Charixg Cboss or CANNON STREET Stations, 30, ReKent Street, or at the following Offices :— Messrs. Thomas cook & Son, Lud^ate Circus, E.G.; 99, Gracechurch Street, E.C. : ?3, Piccadilly. W.: 21, High Street, Kensington W. ; 13, Cocksiur Stree*, Pall Mall. S.W. ; 82, Oxford Street, W. ; "Langham" Hotel, W. ; "First Avenue" Hotel, Holborn, W.C ; ' Hotel Metropole," W.C. ; " Hotel Victoria," W.C : W. Whiteley'.s, Westboume Grove : 44.5, West Strand, W.C ; Front ci St. Pancras Stati n, Euston Road. X.W., London; 1, Place de I'Opera, Fari^. Mar^eiUes. Algiers Cannes. Nice, Mentr ne, Monte Carlo, Genra &c Messrs. H£NRy GAZE and Sons (Ltd.) . 142, Strand, W.C. ; 18, Westboume Grove and Piccadilly Circus, London : •>, Rue Scribe, Parif ; Hj^res, Nice, Mentone. Messrs John Taylor & Riddett, 43. Rue de Frejus Cannes Herxc, Peron & Co., 98, Queen Victoria Street, E.C; 61, B.oulevard HauKsmann. Paris. ARMY AND Navy Stores, 105, Victoria Street, S.W. Messrs. Sewei.i, «: Crowther, IS, Cockspur Street, and 11, Onslow Place, S.W. W. Whiteley 151, Queen's Road. W. Me.ssrs. A. Jakixs and Co. Ltd., 99, Lead'TibaU Street, E C. The Sleeping Car Company, Inside Charing Cross Station; Hotel Cecil; 14, Cockspur Street, London ; 3, Place de I'Opera : Grand and Continental Hotels, Paris ; and Hotel de Paris, Monte Carlo, Nice Cannes, Hyeres, Bord ghera and .San Remo, etc. CtE. GENERALE Transatlantique, Terminus Hotel, Paris; 12, Rue de la Republique, Marseilles, and Algiers. Banqur Co.ntinentale, 48, Faubourg St. Honore, Paris. Mr. N. M.*RTIN,9, Rue Scribe, Paris. MM. Gondhand, 8V, Rue de la Republique, Marseilles. Mr. L. Bertram, 7F, Rue Beauvau (Grindlay & Co.), Marseilles. M. E. Vaknier, Hotel Metropole, Monte Carlo. SOUTH EASTERN COMPANY'S CONTINENTAL AGENCY, 6, Rue Lepeletier, Boulevard des Italien.s, Paris. London Bridge Station, ALFRED WILLIS, December, 1897. Manager (Passenger Dept.). Printed by M«Corquodale & Co. Limitetl, •The Armoury," London, S E. LONDON TO THE RIVIERA. CHANGE TRAINS AT PARIS-NORD AND PARI5-LY:.N, EXCEPT IN THROUGH CARRIAGES AND BY .44 p.m. RAPIDE AT PARIS-NORD ONLY. Day Mail ! via Dover I and Ca'.ais. special and Raplde via Folkestone and Boulogne. Express '.,^*"""f, .ndRapide, Cal-Med. "?^r|Mo^f^es. and Fr'. Night Mail via Dover and Calais. LONDON- C'haring Cross \, Cannon Street ( "'^P- Paris (Nord) (Buffd) .arr. Paris (Nord) dep. Paris (Lyon) arr. Paris (Lyon) {Buffet) dep. i-^"- {d"p. Avignon ,, Marseilles | *'"'^- Toulon arr. Hyeres (Cfiaage at I'oulon). ... ,, Les Arcs ,, St. Raphael , , Cannes (Change for Grasse) .. ,, Grasse , , Antibes ,, Nice ,, Villefranche ,, Beaulieu ,, Eze ,, Monaco ,, Monte Carlo ,, Mentone ,, (^aravan ,, ViNTIMILLE „ 1 1st & 2nd I Class I to Paris. 9 am 5 pm 1 & 2 CI. 1 1st & 2nd Char Cross Class, only. U am 10 am 5 40 pm 7 pm 6 23 „ 718 „ A Rapide. ] St CI. 8 25 pm 3 57 a m 410 „ 7 33 „ 925 „ 9 37 „ 10 46 „ 12 34 p m 12 25 „ 12 54 „ 129 „ 2 57 „ 2 9' '„ 2 34' '„ 2 48" ■„ 2 54 „ 312 „ 3 21 ., 3 34 „ Rapide. 1st & 2nd Cla 7 44 pm 8 24 „ B Rapide. 1st CI. 8 45 pm 417 a m 4 30 ., 7 53 „ 9 49 „ 10 21 „ 1130 „ 12 34 pm 1 1 „ 130 „ 2 5 „ 2 57 „ 2 29 „ 250 „ 3 19' ■„ 3 33' *„ 3 41 „ 3 58 „ 415 „ 4 28 „ Express. C 1st CI. 9 5pm 6 25 am 716 „ 12 17 p m 2 57 ,, 4 28 „ 6 36 „ 8 29 „ 9 31 „ 1012 „ 10 49 „ 1147 „ 1112 „ 1136 „ 12 29 am 12 35 „ 12 42 „ 12 57 „ 1 3 „ 120 „ 1 40' ' Ist CI. Luxe. D* 9 am 4 35 pm 12.49 p.m. from 1 Calais. 1 450 pm j Does not i enter iParus-Lyon. |12 28 a m 12 33 „ I 3 39 „ I 5 20 „ 5 26 „ 6 25 ,. 9 39 ,; 7 29 ., 8 1 „ 8 32 „ 10 8 „ 9 '4' "„ 9 24' ■„ 9 37 ■„ 9 43 „ 10 1 „ 1010 „ 110 23 „ 1, 2&3 Class to Paris. 9 pm 5 38 a m E 1 & 2 CI. 6 48 am 7 31 „ Restaurant Car. 1st Class. R.apide. 9 25 am 4 55 pm 5 8 „ 8 40 ., 10 25 ;, 12 20 am 157 ,. 7 57 „ 3 50 „ 4 31 „ 515 „ 7 40 „ 5 43 „ 6 20 „ 6 57 „ 7 1 ., 7 6 „ 7 18 „ 7 25 „ 7 43 „ 7 53 „ 8 6 „ Luncheon at Boulogne, Dinner at Buffet P extra. Sppc al 1st Class and Sleeping Car Train, Calais to Marseilles, in connection with Outward P. & O. Steamsra.— See Special Advertisements. SPECIAL NOTICE.— In time of Fogs in England and the Channel, Passengers for 7.44 and 8.25 p.m. "RAPIDES "are advised to travel by 10.0 a.m. Service from London, via Boulogne. For Luggage RfgtUations, see back. THE RIVIERA TO LONDON A. rare to London 5/- less than by B Rapide. RAPIDE and Specia! Express, : Fast Thro' Service via Boulogne ; Ist Class. Rapide and Express, via Calais. 1st, Class. Bapide Express and and Mail Mail, via Calais. ^^^..^^j, ^.^^^ via Calais. 1 2 & 3 CI. to and Friday 1 & 2 Class.] Marseilles, j Calais Mi^dlterran^e Rest. Car. j Sunday & Wednesday M^diterran^e and Exp. via Boulogne. Luxe 1 Class Tuesday, Thursday VINTIMILLE ..dep. Caravan ,, Mentone ,, Monte Carlo ,, Monaco „ Eze „ Beaulieu ,, Villefranche „ Nice ,, Antibes ,, Grasse ,, Cannes ,, St. Raphael „ Les Arcs ,, Hyeres ,, Toulon „ I arr. Marseilles -. I, dep. Avignon ,, L^«- Id'ep. Laroche ,, Paris (Lyon) (Rujffet) Sivr. Girdle Railway . . dep. Paris (Nord) ( Buffet) a,rr. Paris (Nord) dep. LONDON London Bridge, .arr. Cannon Street . . ,, Charing Cross . . ,, A 140pm 153 „ 2 2 „ 219 „ 225 „ 2 38' '„ 3 5" "„ 1 iV ■„ 3 44 „ 417 „ 445 „ 4 37 „ 556 „ 7 8 „ 7 55 „ 9 52 „ 18 am 118 „ 6 41 „ 8 5b „ 910 „ 9 59 „ 1&2CL 2 2pm 2 15 „ 2 27 „ 2 44 „ 2 49 „ 3 2* '„ 3 2l' '„ 3 42 „ 3 22 „ 4 4 „ 4 38 „ 5 11 „ 4 37 „ 6 52 „ 8 3 „ 815 „ 1010 „ 126am 138 „ 7 1 „ 915 „ 9 53 „ 10 53 „ I 1 & 2 CI. C , D 9 5 p m 11 35 p m 10 30 a m 11 50 a m 7 30pm 5 50 p m 7 35 „ 918 9 26 „ 9 43 „ 9 48 „ 10 'l' V, 10 6 „ 10 30 „ 10 53 „ 7 23 „ 1119 „ 1158 „ 12 32 a m 7 58pm 158 am 3 24 „ 1 & 2 a. 3 40 „ 5 53 „ 918 „ 9 30 „ 3 35 p m 610 „ 7 7 „ 8 „ l,2&3a. 9 0pm 5 30 a m 5 40 „ 1148 1159 ,; 12 18 a m 12 24 „ 12 36' *„ 12 40 „ 1 9 „ 136 „ 723pm 2 4 am 2 49 „ 3 38 „ 7 58pm 5 39 a m 7 62 „ ICL 9 5 a ro 10 55 „ 2 25pm 2 38 „ 7 51 „ 10 5 „ 7 35 a m 814 „ 1 & 2 CI. 9 am 4 48pm 4 55 ,. E 6 55 pm 7 8 „ 7 19 „ 7 38 „ 7 45 „ 7 59*',, 8 23' *„ 7 23" ■„ 8 56 „ 9 28 „ 10 1 „ 7 58 „ 11 2 „ 12 2am 12 8 „ 150 „ 4 46 „ 4 51 „ 9 57 „ ^1140am| ... g ;>;ll 55 „ I ... § ^12 35 pm 12 12 pmg* rl, 2&3i "^ S 3 45 pml2 20 „ ^ :1135 = 1140 7 30 7 35 A RAPIDE.— Lit-Salons and Sleeping Cars, and 1st Class Lavatory Carria?es and Fauteuil, Vintimllle to Paris-tyon, Coupe Lit Toilette and 1st Class Carriage. Vintimille (1.40 p.m.) to BOULOGNE. Coupe-Inteneur and Lavatory Couloir Carriages, Paris-Nord to Boulogne. Breakfast at Paris-Nord. Luncheon at Amiens. Lavatory Saloons and C^rriiges, Folkestone to London. Lugeaere ^>y thia Service to be Regitter-d Via BOITIjOQ-NE and POIiKESTONE. B Lit-Salon and 1st Class by B Rapide fnra VmtimiUe (2.2 p.m.) to CALAIS. First Class Hyeres tj Par s-Nord. Carriages tame as A Rapide except Fauteuil. Restaurant Car, Paris-Lyon (9.32 a.m.) to Paris-Nord. C— P.L.M. Couloir C irriage, Vintimille (9..5 p.m.) to Paris, Fast Train, Nice to PaHs, Luncheon at Dijon. D Rap de, Corridor Train a id Restaurant '"^ar, Marse'lle-> to Paris. B " Mdditerranee " Train de Luvp, Sleeping and Restaurant Cars, v,ntimille t > Paris-Nord and London, via Boulogne. This Train runs on M >nday, Thursday and Friday from Vintimille in con>ection with 3. -to p.m. Triin to fiO-don from Paris-Nord via Boulo< e -Folkestone, Wednesday Friday and Saturday. Calais M^diterran'^e Sunday "nd Wedn • day arriving Paris-Nord at 12.12 noon on Monday and Thursday, without entering Paris-Lyon, and at Calais 3.50 p.m. ALGIERS. — The Cie Transatlantique Steamers run between Marseilles and Algiers three times a week, leaving Marseilles 12.30 noon, Monday, Wednesday and Satunlay, and Algiers at 12.0 noon, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in connection with the above Services. Cabines de Luxe, £4 extra. THROUGH TICKETS TO AND FROM FOREIGN STATIONS. ALL Return T ckets and also all Single Tickets, via Do-^er and Calais, are available via Folkestone and Boulogne, or via Dover and '^•ala'S, and by either Ra'lway betweeo Folkestone or Dover and Lon- on— "South Eastern" or London Chat 'am and Dover "—whether issued by the Companies or by any of their Agents in England or Abroad. South Eastern "Railway. LONDON: Charing Cross and Cannon Street. South Eastern, Northern of France, and Paris- Lyons and Mediterranean Railways. LUGGAGE OUTWARDS. By 9.0 a.m. Service "for Rapides," Luggage examined at Paris-Nord. If for " Calais-Mediterranee " Train-de-Luxe, in the Train between Calais and Amiens. Luggage by 10.0 a.m. Service, via Boulogne, to be registered to destination for Examination at Boulogne, where Passengers must attend at the Customs to clear it. By 11.0 a.m. Train from London, Luggage for Marseilles, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Mentone, examined at destination. If for Toulon and other French Riviera Stations, at Marseilles. If for Monte Carlo, at Monaco. If for Vintimille, or beyond, at YintimiUe ; and at Calais when for other destinations. By 9.0 p.m. Train from London, Luggage Registered to any destination reached by P.L.M. Line is examined at Paris (P.L.M.) Station. For Vintimille and Italian Stations beyond, at Vintimille. LUGGAGE HOMEWARDS. Luggage Registered through to London from Stations from which Through Tickets are issued. Examined at Charing Cross, Hand Luggage arri\ing by ?>ight Mail Service is Examined in the Train at Dover. Cannon Street Luggage at Dover. Also to Folke- stone or Dover. Luggage for Dover should be Registered to "Dover, S.E.R. Customs." All Luggage by 3.45 p.m. Service from Paris Examined at Folkestone Harbour, and all Luggage by Night Mail from Paris at Dover. IMPORTANT NOTICE TO PASSENGERS. In order to avoid mistakes and delay, Passengers should be careful to see their Luggage for the Boulogne Services is registered ''Via FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE," and for the Calais Services *♦ Via CALAIS and DOVER." By the Through "Rapide ' Services, all Luggage Registered Via Boulogne is to be sent by the First A " Rapide" Train, No. 10, and Via Calais by the Second B > Rapide "Train, No. 20. TERMINUS HOTELS. The property of the South Eastern Railway Company. I^OPiDOlS :— CHARING CROSS HOTEL. | CANNON STREET HOTEL. Othep Hotels near GhaFing Cfoss Station, London: — GRAND HOTEL, Northumberland Avenue. HOTEL METROPOLE, Northumber- land Avenue. HOTEL VICTORIA, Northumber- land Avenue. SAVOY HOTEL, Victoria Embankment. CECIL HOTEL, GOLDEN CROSS HOTEL, Strand. MORLEY'S HOTEL, Trafalgar Sriuare. THE CHATEAU DMF. The Chateau d'lf is between the mainland and the islands of Raton- neau and Pomegue, The islands of Tiboulen and La Maire are south from the Chateau d'lf. Those of Jaire, Caleseraigne, and Riou are round the point and cannot be seen from the Chateau d'lf See Map of Marseilles to Cannes. "MONTE CHRISTO," by ALEXANDRE DUMAS. CHAPTER XX. The Cemetery of the Chateau d'If. On the bed, at full length, and faintly lighted by the pale ray that pene- trated the window, was visible a sack of coarse cloth, under the large folds of which was stretched a long and stiffened form ; it was Faiia's last winding-sheet — a -winding-sheet which, as the turnkey said, cost so little. All, then, was completed. A material separation had taken place between Dantes and his old friend ; he could no longer see those eyes which had remained open as if to look even beyond death ; he could no longer clasp that hand of industry which had lifted for him the veil that h^d concealed hidden and obscure things. Faria, the usual and the good companion, with whom he was accustomed to live so intimately, no longer breathed. He seated himself on the edge of that terrible bed, and fell into a melan- choly and gloomy reverie. Alone ! — he was alone again ! — again relapsed into silence ! — he found himself once again in the presence of nothingness ! Alone ! — no longer to see, no longer to hear the voice of the only human being who attached him to life 1 •'Ah! ah!" he muttered, "who inspires me with this thought? Is it Tliou, gracious God ? Since none but the dead pass freely from this dungeon, let me assume the place of the dead ! " Without giving himself time to reconsider his decision, and, indeed, that he might not allow his thoughts to be distracted from his desperate resolution, he bent over the appalling sack, opened it with the knife which Faria had made, drew the corpse from the sack, and transported it along the gallery to his own chamber, laid it on his couch, passed round its head the rag he wore at night round his own, covered it wdth his counterpane, once again kissed the ice-cold brow, and tried vainly to close the resisting eyes, which glared horribly ; turned the head towards the wall, so that the gaoler might, when he brought his evening meal, believe that he was asleep, as was his frequent custom ; returned along the gallery, threw the bed against the wall, returned to the other cell, took from the hiding-place the needle and thread, flung off his rags, that they might feel naked flesh only beneath the coarse sackcloth, and getting inside the s;ick, placed himself in the posture in which the dead body had been laid, and sewed up the mouth of the sack withinside. 1 The Chateau d'If. The beatiiig of his heart might have been heard, if by any mischance the gaolers had entered at that moment. Dantes might have waited until the evening visit was over, but he was afraid the governor might change his resolution, and order the dead body to be removed earlier. In that case his last hope would have been destroyed. Now his project was settled under any ch-cumstances, and he hoped thus to carry it into effect. If, during the time he was being conveyed, the grave-diggers should discover that they were conveying a live instead of a dead body, Dantes did not intend to give them time to recognise him, but with a sudden cut of the knife he meant to open the sack from top to bottom, and, profiting by their alarm, escape ; if they tried to catch him, he would use his knife. If they conducted him to the cemetery and laid him in the grave, he would allow himself to be covered \vith earth, and then, as it was night, the grave-diggers could scarcely have turned their backs ere he would have worked his way through the soft soil and escape, hoping that the weight would not be too heavy for him to support. If he was deceived in this, and the earth proved too heavy, he would be stifled, and then, so much the better, all would be over. Dantes had not eaten since the previous evening, but he had not thought of hunger or thirst, nor did he now think of it. His position was too precarious to allow him even time to reflect on any thought but one. The first risk that Dantes ran was, that the gaoler, when he brought him his supper at seven o'clock, might perceive the substitution he had efl'ected ; fortunately, twenty times at least, from misanthropy or fatigue, Dantes had received his gaoler in bed, and then the man placed his bread and soup on the table and went away without saying a word. This time the gaoler might not be silent as usual, but speak to Dantes, and seeing that he received no reply, go to the bed, and thus discover all. When seven o'clock came, Dantes' agony really commenced. His hand placed on his heart was unable to repress its throbbings, whilst with the other he wiped the perspiration from his temples. From time to time shudderings ran through his whole frame, and collapsed his heart as if it were frozen. Then he thought he was going to die. Yet the hours passed on without any stir in the chateau, and Dantes felt he had escaped this first danger ; it was a good augriry. At length, about the hour the gover- nor had appointed, footsteps were heard on the stairs. Edmond felt that the moment had arrived, and summoning up all his courage, held his breath, happy if at the same time he could have repressed in like manner the hasty pulsation of his arteries. They stopped at the door — there were two steps, and Dantes guessed it was the two grave-diggers who came to seek him ; this idea was soon converted into certainty when he heard the noise they made in putting down the hand-bier. The door opened, and a dim light reached Dantes' eyes through the coarse sack that covered him ; he saw two shadows approach his bed, a third remaining at the door with a torch in his hand. Each of these two men, approaching the ends of the bed, took the sack by its extremities. ''He's heavy, though, for an old and thin man," said one, as he raised the head. "They say every year adds half-a-pound to the weight of the bones," said another, lifting the feet. The Chateau d'If. " Have you tied the knot ? " inquired the first speaker. " What would be the use of carrying so much more weight ? " was the reply ; "I can do that Avhen we get there." "Yes, you're right," replied the companion. " What's the knot for ? " thought Dantes. They deposited the supposed corpse on the bier. Edmond stiffened himself in order to play his part of a dead man, and then the party, lighted by the man with the torch, who went first, ascended the stairs. Suddenly he felt the fresh and shai-p night air, and Dantes recognised the Mistral. It was a sudden sensation, at the same time replete with delight and agony. The bearers advanced twenty paces, then stopped, putting their bier down on the ground. One of them went away, and Dantes heard his shoes on the pavement. *' Where am I, then ? " he asked himself. " Really, he is by no means a light load ! " said the other bearer, sitting on the edge of the hand-barrow. Dantes' first impulse was to escape, but, fortunately, he did not attempt it. "Light me, you sir," said the other bearer, "or I shall not find what I am looking for." Tlie man with the torch complied, although not asked in the most polite terms. " What can he be looking for ? " thought Edmond. " The spade per- haps." An exclamation of satisfaction indicated that the grave-digger had found the object of his search. " Here it is at last," he said, "not with- out some trouble, though." "Yes," was the answer ; "but it has lost nothing by waiting." As he said this, the man came towards Edmond, who heard a heavy and sounding substance laid down beside him, and at the same moment a cord was fastened round his feet with sudden and painful violence. "Well, have you tied the knot?" inquired the grave-digger who was looking on. "Yes, and pretty tight too, I can tell you," was the answer. " Move on, then." And the bier was lifted once more, and they pro- ceeded. They advanced fifty paces farther, and then stopped to open a door, then went forward again. The noise of the waves dashing against the rocks, on which the chateau is built, reached Dantes' ear distinctly as they progressed. " Bad weather ! " observed one of the bearers ; " not a pleasant night for a dip in the sea." "Why, yes, the abbe runs a chance of being wet," said the other; and then there was a burst of brutal laughter. Dantes did not compre- hend the jest, but his hair stood erect on his head. " Well, here we are at last," said one of them. " A little farther — a little farther," said the other ; "you know very well that the last was stopped on his way, dashed on the rocks, and the governor told us next day that we were careless fellows." Tliey ascended five or six more steps, and then Dantes felt that they took him, one by the head and the other by the heels, and swung him to and fro. "One!" said the grave-diggers, "two! three, and away!" And at the same instant Dantes felt himself flung into the air like a wounded bird falling, falling with a rapidity that made his blood curdle. Although drawn downwards by the same heavy weight which hastened hi.s 3 The Chateau d'If. rapid descent, it seemed to him as if the time were a century. At last, with a terrific dash, he entered the ice-cold water, and as he did so h«j uttered a shrill cry, stifled in a moment by his immersion beneath the waves. Dautes had been flung into the sea, into whose depths he was dragged by a thirtv-six pound shot tied to his feet. The sea is the cemetery of Chateau d"^^lf. Thk Isle of Tiboulen. Dant^s, although giddy, and almost suffocated, had yet sufficient presence of mind to hold his breath ; and as his right hand (prepared as he was for every chance) held his knife open, he rapidly ripped up the sack, extri- cated his arm, and then his body ; but in spite of all his eflbrts to free himself from the bullet, he felt it dragging him down still lower : he then bent his body, and by a desperate effort severed the cord that bound his legs, at the moment he was suffocating. With a vigorous spring he rose to the surface of the sea, whilst the bullet bore to its depths the sack that had so nearly become his shroud. Dantes merely paused to breathe, and then dived again in order to avoid being seen. When he arose a second time, he was fifty paces from where he had first sunk. He saw overhead a black and tempestuous sky, over which the wind was driving the fleeting vapours that occasionally suffered a twinkling star to appear ; before him was the vast expanse of waters, sombre and terrible, whose waves foamed and roared as if before the approach of a storm. Behind him, blacker than the sea, blacker than the sky, rose like a phantom the giant of granite, whose projecting crags seemed like arms extended to seize their prey ; and on the highest rock was a torch that lighted two figures. He fancied these two forms were looking at the sea ; doubtless these strange grave-diggers had heard his cry. Dantes dived again, and remained a long time beneath the water. This manoeu\Te was already familiar to him, and usually attracted a crowd of spectators in the bay before the lighthouse at Marseilles when he swam there, and who with one accord pronounced him the best s\\'immer in the port. When he reappeared the light had disappeared. It was necessary to strihe out to sea ; Ratouueau and Pomegue are the nearest isles of all those that surround the Chateau d'If ; but Ratonneau and Pomegue are inhabited, together with the islet of Daume ; Tiboulen or La Maire was the most secure. The isles of Tiboulen and La Maire are a league from the Chateau d'If. Dantes nevertheless determined to make for them ; but how could he find his way in the darkness of the night ? At this moment he saw before him, like a brilliant star, the lighthouse of Planier. By leaving this light on the riglit, he kept the Isle of Tiboulen a little on the left ; by turning to the left, therefore, he would find it. But, as we have said, it was at least a league from the Chateau d'If to this island. Often in prison Faria had said to him, when he saw him idle and inactive, " Dantea, you must not give way to this listlessness ; you will be droT'ned if you seek to escape, and your strength has not been properly exercised and prepared for exertion." These words rang in Dantes' ears, even beneath the waves : he hastened to cleave his way through them to 4 The Chateau d'If. see if he had not lost bis strength ; lie found -with pleasure that his cap- tivity had taken away nothing of his power, and that he was still master of that element on whose bosom he had so often sported as a boy. Fear, that relentless pursuer, clogged Dantes' eftbrts ; he listened if any noise was audible ; each time that he rose over the waves his looks scanned the horizon, and strove to penetrate the darkness ; every wave seemed a boat in his pursuit, and he redoubled exertions that increased his distance fi'om the chateau, but the repetition of which weakened his strength. He swam on still, and already the terrible chateau had dis- appeared in the darkness. He could not see it, but he felt its presence. An hour passed, during which Dantes, excited by the feeling of freedom, continued to cleave the waves. "Let us see," said he, "I have swum above an hour ; but as the Avind is against me, that has retarded my speed ; however, if I am not mistaken, I must be close to the Isle of Tiboulen. But what if I were mistaken ? " A shudder passed over him. He sought to tread water, in order to rest himself ; but the sea was too violent, and he felt that he could not make use of this means of repose. "Well," said he, "I will swim on until I am worn out, or the cramp seizes me and then I shall sink ;" and he strurlc out with the energy of despair. Suddenly the sky seemed to him to become still darker and more dense, and compact clouds lowered towards him ; at the same time he felt a violent pain in his knee ; his imagination told him a ball had struck him, and that in a moment he would hear the report, but he heard nothing. Dantes put out his hand and felt resistance ; he then extended his leg and felt the land, and in an instant guessed the nature of the object he had taken for a cloud. Before him rose a mass of strangely - formed rocks, that resembled nothing so much as a vast fire petrified at the moment of its most fervent combustion. It was the Isle of Tiboulen. Dantes rose, advanced a few steps, and, with a fervent prayer of gratitude, stretched himself on the granite, which seemed to him softer than down. Then, in spite of the wind and rain, he fell into the deep sweet sleep of those worn out by fatigue. At the expiration of an hour Edmond was aAvakened by the roar of the thunder. The tempest was unchained and let loose in all its fury ; from time to time a flash of lightning stretched across the heavens like a fiery serpent, lighting up the clouds that rolled on like the waves of an immense chaos. Dantes had not been deceived — he had reached the first of the two isles, which was in reality Tibovden. He knew that it w^as barren and without shelter ; but when the sea became more calm he resolved to plunge into its waves again and swim to La Maire, equally arid, but larger, and consequently better adapted for concealment. An overhanging rock offered him a tenjporary shelter ; and scarcely had he availed himself of it when the tempest burst forth in all its fury. Edmond felt the rock beneath which he lay tremble ; the waves dashing themselves against the granite rock wetted him with their spray. In safety, as he was, he felt himself become giddy in the midst of this war of the elements and the dazzling brightness of the lightning. It seemed to him that the island trembled to its base, and that it would, like a vessel 5 The Chateau d'If. at anchor, break her moorings, and bear him off into the centre of the storm. He then recollected that he had not eaten or drunk for four-and- twenty hours. He extended his hands, and drank greedily of the rain- water that had lodged in a hollow of the rock. As he rose, a Hash of lightning, that seemed as if the whole of the heavens were opened, illuminated the darkness. By its light, between the Isle of La Maire and Cape Croisette, a quarter of a league distant, Dautes saw, like a spectre, a fishing-boat driven rapidly on by the force of the winds and waves. A second after, he saw it again, approaching nearer. Dantes cried at the top of his voice to warn them of their danger, but they saw it themselves. Another flash showed him four men clinging to the shattered mast and the rigging, while a fifth clung to the broken rudder. The men he beheld saw him doubtless, for their cries were carried to his ears by the wind. Above the splintered mast a sail rent to tatters was waving ; suddenly the ropes that still held it gave way, and it disappeai-ed in the darkness of the night like a vast sea-bird. At the same moment a violent crash was heard, and cries of distress. Perched on the summit of the rock, Dantes saw by the lightning the vessel in pieces ; and amongst the fragments were visible the agonised features of the unhappy sailors. Then all became dark again. Dantes ran do\vn the rocks at the risk of being himself dashed to pieces ; he listened, he strove to examine, but he heard and saw nothing — all human cries had ceased ; and the tempest alone continued to rage. By degrees the wind abated ; vast gi'ay clouds rolled towards the west ; and the blue firmament appeared studded with white stars. Soon a red streak became visible in the horizon ; the waves whitened, a light played over them, and gilded their foaming crests with gold. It was day. Dantes stood silent and motionless before this vast spectacle ; for since his captivity he had forgotten it. He turned towards the fortress, and looked both at the sea and the land. The gloomy building rose from the bosom of the ocean with that imposing majesty of inanimate objects that seems at once to watch and to command. It was about five o'clock ; the sea continued to grow calmer. "In two or three hours," thought Dantes, "the turnkey Avill enter my chamber, find the body of my poor friend, recognise it, seek for me in vain ; and give the alarm. Then the passage will be discovered, the men who cast me into the sea, and who must have heard the cry I uttered, will be questioned. Then boats filled with armed soldiers will pursue the ■wretched fugitive. The cannon will warn every one to refuse shelter to a man wandering about naked and famished. The police of Marseilles will be on the alert by land, whilst the governor pursues me by sea. I am cold, I am hungry. I have lost even the knife that saved me. Oh, my God ! I have suffered enough, surely. Have pity on me, and do for me what I am unable to do for myself." As Dantes (his eyes turned in the direction of the Chateau d'lf) uttered this prayer, he saw appear at the extremity of the Isle of Pomegue, like a bird skimming over the sea, a small bark, that the eye of a sailor alone could recognise as a Genoese tartane. She was coming out of Marseilles harbour, and was standing out to sea rapidly, her sharp prow cleaving 6 The Chateau d'If. through the waves. " Oh ! " cried Edmond, " to think that iu half au houi I could join her, did I not fear being questioned, detected, and conveyed back to Marseilles. Wliat can I do ? What story can I invent ? Under pretext of trading along the coast, these men, who are in reality smugglers, will prefer selling me to doing a good action. I must wait. But I cannot — I am starving. In a few hours my strength will be utterly exhausted ; besides, perhaps I have not been missed at the fortress. I can pass as one of the sailors wrecked last night. This .story will pass current, for there is no one left to contradict me." As he spoke, Dantes looked towards the spot where the fishing-vessel had been wrecked, and started. The red cap of one of the sailors hung on a point of the rock ; and some beams that had formed a part of the vessel's keel floated at the foot of the crags. In an instant Dantes' plan was formed. He swam to the cap, placed it on his head, seized one of the beams, and struck out so as to cross the line the vessel was taking. "I am saved," murmured he. And this conviction restored his strength. He soon perceived the vessel, which, having the wind right ahead, was tacking between the Chateau d'lf and the Tower of Planier. For an instant he feared lest the bark, instead of keeping inshore, should stand out to sea ; but he soon saw by her manceuvres that she wished to pass, like most vessels bound for Italy, between the islands of Jaire and Cala- seraigne. However, the vessel and the swimmer insensibly neared one another ; and in one of its tacks the bark approached within a quarter of a mile of him. He rose on the waves, making signs of distress ; but no cue on board perceived him ; and the vessel stood on another tack. Dantes would have cried out, but he reflected that the wind would drown his voice. It was then he rejoiced at his precaution in taking the beam, for with- out it he would have been unable, perhaps, to reach the vessel — certainly to return to shore, should he be unsuccessful in attracting attention. Dantes, although almost sure as to what course the bark would take, had yet watched it anxiously until it tacked and stood towards him. Tlien he advanced ; but, before they had met, the vessel again changed her direction. By a violent eS"ort he rose half out of the water, waving his cap, and uttering a loud shout peculiar to sailors. This time he was both seen and heard, and the tartane instantly steered towards him. At the same time, he saw they were about to lower the boat. An instant after, the boat, rowed by two men, advanced rapidly towards him. Dantes abandoned the beam, which he thought now use- less, and swam vigorously to meet them. But he had reckoned too much upon his strength, and then he felt how serviceable the beam had been to him. His arms grew stiflF, his legs had lost their flexibility, and he was almost breathless. He uttered a second cry. The two sailors redoubled their efi'orts, and one of them cried out in Italian, ** Courage ! " The word reached his ear as a wave which he no longer had the strength to surmount passed over his head. He rose again to the surface, supporting himself by one of those desperate efforts a drowning man makes, uttered a third cry, and felt himself sink ago in, as if the fatal 7 Thp: Chateau d'If. bullet were again tied to his feet. The water passed over his head, anil the sky seemed livid. A violent effort again brought him to the surface. He felt as if something seized him by the hair ; but he saw and heard nothing. He had fainted. Wlien he opened his eyes, Dantes found himself on the deck of the tartane. His first care was to see what direction they were pursuing. They were rapidly leaving the Chateau d'lf behind. Dantes was so exhausted that the exclamation of joy he uttered was mistaken for a sigh. As we have said, he was lying on the deck, a sailor was rubbing his limbs with a woollen cloth ; another, whom he recognised as the one who had cried out " Courage," held a gourd full of rum to his mouth ; whilst the third, an old sailor, at once the pilot and captain, looked on with that egotistical pity men feel for a misfortime that they have escaped yesterday and which may overtake them to-morrow. A few drops of the rum restored suspended animation, whilst the friction of his limbs restored their elasticity. "Who are yoia V said the pilot in bad French. "I am," replied Dantes in bad Italian, "a Maltese sailor. We were coming from Syracuse laden with grain. The storm of last night overtook us at Cape Morgion, and we were ^v^eeked on these rocks." " Where do you come from ?" ' ' From these rocks that I had the good luck to cling to whilst our captain and the rest of the crew were all lost. I saw your ship, and fearful of being left to perish on the desolate island, I swam off on a fragment of the vessel in order to try and gain your bark. You have saved my life, and I thank you," continued Dantes. " I was lost when one of your sailors caught hold of my hair." " It was I," said a sailor, of a frank and manly appearance ; " and it was time, for you were sinking." **'Yes," returned Dantes, holding out his hand, "I thank you again." "I almost hesitated, though," replied the sailor ; "you looked more like a brigand than an honest man, with your beard six inches and your hair a foot long." Dantes recollected that his hair and beard had not been cut all the time he was at the Chateau d'lf. "Yes," said he, "I made a vow to our Lady of the Grotto not to cut my hair or beard for ten years if I were saved in a moment of danger ; but to-day the vow expires." " Now what are we to do with you ? " said the captain. " Alas ! anything you please. My captain is dead ; I have barely escaped ; but I am a good sailor. Leave me at the first port you make ; I shall be sure to find employment." " Do you know the Mediterranean ? " "I have sailed over it since my childhood." " You know the best harbours ? " *' There are few ports that I could not enter or leave with my eyes blinded. " LONUOjro UNIV. OF CALIF. LIBRARY, LOS ANGELES UC SOUTHERN DEG!O^ML l.'BDAqv FAC A 000 178 144 Hftobonrg .TRA^yKFOST ^"jn/,.. \Sxycahe^i /'■,3/fr»ll '» I^Tl'V^ V A^ ll' £T7, ^huai^rud. ffi ^ r- ? ^ .o^t CO ■K&ASKArB ;7/rO l^£.i ps ...<^^ r^t 3/;>«/-Aa„ip<7 s TiS-S Chairunira BJlcnjiuna Sum Locai-fto < _^R/G N E B7anc J-fiLi ■^ V^ ^^i. Sutra, y fl_ a>t«-<.7i>j ^igU<»"' h> "'•-'.«. \^- .^— •- MEDITEIiBA NE AN S E A J^ardwUrmat EamT