£-o<^ (ktrp./6, /?t>Y, TO ENGLAND AND BACK TO ENGLAND AND BACK A WINTER 1/ A CAT ION BY CANON KNOWLES \ "Going, staying; staying, going, Little recks the ready mind; Wheresoe'er good work is doing Richest realm he there shall find." Goethe CHICAGO A. C. McCLURG AND COMPANY 1S92 COPYRIGHT By A. C. McClurg & Co A. D. 1S92 DEDICATION. TO MY MANY SYMPATHETIC FRIENDS AT HOME AND ABROAD, WHO FOLLOWED MY "WINTER VACATION" IN THE COLUMNS OF "THE LIVING CHURCH," I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME, TRUSTING THAT THE LETTERS. HERE PRESENTED IN MORE PERMANENT FORM, MAY FIND WITH THEM A RENEWED WELCOME AND AN ABIDING INTEREST, J. H. K. CONTENTS. i. Leaving Chicago — Sunday in Cleveland — New York — Rev. Dr. Houghton — Trinity Church — Rev. Dr. Holland— General Theological Seminary — Professor Richey — Fifth Ave- nue — Central Park — The Pyx — Departure on Germania ----- i3 II. Smooth winter seas — Cure for sea-sickness— Fellow travellers — Beautiful waves — Sun- day services - . - - - 18 III. Sunday in Ireland— St. Finn Bar's Cathedral— An ordination — An afternoon walk — Even- ing service. ... - - 23 IV. Christinas Da\ — Kilmallock— The old abbey- Church services — The Largess at the gate. - - - - - 28 V. Dublin— St. Bartholomew's— St. Patrick's Ca- thedral—Memorial service for Duke of Clarence— The Table d' Hote. - 32 7 8 Contents. VI. Donaghmore — The Celtic Cross — Culdee re- mains — Belfast — Clerical meeting — Green- ore — Holyhead — London. - - 39 VII. Westminster Abbey — The Clergy and Choris- ters — The service — Canon Farrar's reading ■ — Henry" Seventh's Chapel — Encumbering monuments — Busts of Keble, Maurice, Kingsley 45 VIII. The Brompton oratory — The ceremonial — The music — The sermon — Evensong at St. Paul's — The two Presbyterian clergymen — Canon Scott Holland. 51 IX. St. Paul's Cathedral — Patronal feast — Matins and high celebration — Stainer's Amen, se- lection from St. Paul — The solemn effect — The departing crowd ... 56 X. Contrasts of London — The National Gallery — Old favorites — Rosetti's Annunciation — Turner's drawings — The Church Times office — Guildhall — London Bridge — Lower Thames street — The Embankment — Water- loo Bridge — Perspectives — Suggested mu- sic - - - - - - 64 Contents. XI. Early Sunday morning in Westminster Abbey St. Mary's Hospital, Paddington— Christ Church, Lancaster Gate— The Missionary — Kensington Gardens— The Albert Memo- rial — Evensong at the Abbey — Canon Far- rar's sermon— Night at St. Paul's— Hon. E. Lyttleton's sermon - - - - 7° XII. St. Mary Magdalene's, Munster Square— High- gate Cemetery — Whitechapel — Toynbee Hall— Stjude's— The view at the Tower 79 XIII. Lincoln's Inn— St. Alban's, Holborn— Macono- chie Memorial Chapel— S. P. G. Rooms- Evensong at Westminster — All Saint's, Margaret street ... - S7 XIV. St. Andrew's, Stock well Green— St. John the Divine, Kennington — Nottingham — The Market Place — The old negro - 92 XV. The Nottingham lace warehouse— The daily service for the workers — The London lady and the factory girl - - - 97 XVI. English hospitality— Excursion to Clumber — Rufford -Thoresby— The Duke of Newcas- tle's beautiful church - - - 101 io (Contents. XVII. St. Mary's, Nottingham — Canon Richardson — An English congregation — Sawlev, Derby- shire -..--. no XVIII. Ash Wednesday in Oxford — The Commination Service — Preaching of Knox Little — St. Barnabas Church - - - - 116 XIX. Meeting of Church Congregational Music As- sociation ----- 123 XX. First Sunday in Oxford, Bampton lecture at St. Mary's — Bishop Barry — Cowley Iron Church — The Common room — Walk to If- fley Church — Evensong at New College — The bells of St. Giles - - - 129 XXI. A day in Oxford — Architectural groupings — Christ Church Meadows — The river — St. Barnabas — Father Maturin — Seabury House 137 XXII. Chapel of Keble College— The students— The music — The warden — High Celebration at St. Barnabas — Oxford by moonlight 143 (Contents. " XXIII. Breakfast with a Don— Excursions from Ox- ford — American relics — The Missionary College — Hospitality — The recluse author 149 XXIV. Oxford routine— Lecture by Dr. Stainer — The Bodleian — The lady from the Fayoum— Gifts of Laud and Selden— Farewell to Ox- ford — Recollections of Common rooms 154 XXV. Chapel Royal, Savoy— St. Nicholas Cole Ab- bey — Mozart's Requiem — The Church Club — The Dominican Priory — Bach's mass in B- Minor, Dvorak's Requiem - - 161 XXVI. B B The drawing room — Old pictures The beautiful church— Peace after a long sermon— A country drive - - 174 XXVII. To Brighton— The University boat race Visit to Cheyne Walk The Thames to Charing Cross — St. Bartholomew's, Brighton— Palm Sunday— Good Friday— Fudi the Japanese —Easter day - - i&> XXVIII. Last day in England- The mill -The moor The minster— Holyhead— Dublin 196 i2 (Contents. XXIX. Resting in Ireland — The return voyage — Its pleasures — My fellow passengers — New York harbor — Landing — Once more with Dr Houghton ... - 203 XXX. Getting home again — Strangeness of familiar things — Fifth Avenue and Broadway — Grace Church — The choir question — The new cathedral — St. Agnes — Zion and St. Timothy — General Theological Seminary — St. Peter's, Morristown - - 211 XXXI. On the Limited for the West — The Hudson and the Catskills — Albany — Bishop Coxe — The night ride — The awakening — Lake Michigan — Nearing the end — Chicago again — Business — The World's Fair — Church progress — Diocesan Convention — The End - - - - 223 TO ENGLAND AND BACK A WINTER VACATION. I. THE rain and the loneliness at Twenty-second Street station, as we waited for the Lake Shore train to take us off east from Chicago on Decem- ber 3d, exactly coincided with our feelings. Adieus had been all said, the past, like a great prairie, stretched out behind us, and it was just as well to be with one's own thoughts alone, as one looked out over such a vista of years. The lamps of Chicago seemed interminable; they lit up the scene, even as the lights of memory lit up the past. A night's ride brought us to Cleveland, where we stayed over until Sunday after- noon, the guest of the Rev. T. C. Foote, 13 i4 Co ©nglanto anto ISacfc. who has charge of St. James' church in that city. On Saturday we called on dear Dr. Bolles, who received us with a loving kiss and gave us his patriarchal blessing as we left his venerable presence. What Church memories crowd up as one con- verses with such a man: Crosswell, De Lancey, the elder Doane, the Advent, Boston, choral services, free churches, the pioneer struggles for Church principles for over fifty years past. We saw some of the fruits of such labor in St. James' church, where we ministered next day. An early Celebration at which we offici- ated was a refreshment to our souls, and the children's Eucharist fully choral at 9:30, at which the rector, Rev. T. C. Foote, celebrated, was beautiful in its teaching power and reverent rendering. Monday morning found us in New York, the guest of Dr. Houghton, at the Transfiguration. What a haven of rest is this secluded but ever-busy nook in the turmoil of New York life! After Matins we went for steamer tickets and letter of credit to Wall Street, and, in turning into Trinity, as our custom is, we found a lec- ture, the first of a week's course, an- Eo SSacfc. II. FROM my experience in the "Ger- manic," in this month of December, 1 89 1, I should certainly argue that winter is the best time to cross the Atlantic. We have had smooth seas, bright skies, clear weather, a cheerful, happy company, and no crowding. All these are advantages which I found absent on summer trips. Of course, we have had some severe rolls of the vessel and some seasickness, and a little discomfort to some passengers, but " I have not lost a meal," seasickness has not come near me. I have a psychical formula for its cure, which is this: Culti- vate the Unconscious Automatic Equi- librium. Where put in practice, it never fails of effect. It is based upon the truth that we only know that which we are unconscious of knowing, and so when equilibrium becomes unconsciously auto- matic, we have our sea legs and are sea- sick proof. The mental effort to commit Eo tPnglanli anti $5arfe. 19 the formula to memory is the first step in the cure. It diverts attention from inter- nal disturbances and then the braced-up being can begin unimpeded the Cultiva- tion of the Unconscious Automatic Equi- librium. It may be as well to add to this a practical hint, to keep the knee and ankle joints perfectly limber, to realize that the horizon of the ocean is immov- able as solid earth, and to consider motion in all objects but one's self, the normal condition of environment in the ship. I have given this valuable formula to fellow- passengers, especially ladies, with never- failing effect. With two factors of stead- iness established — one's own well balanced brain and viscera, and the unswerving circle of the sea — then the incidental mo- tion of the ship will be soon as little re- garded as the motion of a good horse or the jolting of a carriage. The heaving deck will become a positive source of pleasure, and will lose all its fearful terrors. Our company in the saloon, in its chance gathering of units into the brief whole of an Atlantic voyage, had its never-failing interest. There were old travelers who had encircled the globe 20 &o (England anti 13ark. again and again ; there were farmers from Manitoba and Oregon homeward bound once more for Christmas; there was the silent old lady, with a sorrow at her heart, which rumor told us was the dead body of her daughter, also on board, on its silent journey from Colorado to an Eng- lish churchyard; there were Americans, bound for tbe South of France for needed rest, and so on and on. After some days out, an old gentleman spoke to me; he was from a town in Illinois, near Chicago, and knew the C — s and the D — s and Mr. S — , and Church life in Illinois for forty- five years past. The first man I met on board was from Chicago, and so, ere long, we were all like a big family. But oh, how lovely the sea was! One evening it was all slate color and purple, with yellow lights on the waves, caught from the pale sunset. One night it was steel-blue, plumed with silver-feathered waves, dancing in the bright moonlight. In the sky were soft masses of bright white clouds, with great star lit spaces of clear, open sky. It was a glory to walk the deck on such a night. One need never weary at sea, if there 2To ©itglant) aitti iSarfe. 21 is an eye for color and a heart for beauty. If nothing else, there is the encircling- perfect curve of the horizon; but, through this mystic circle the dolphins play and the whales send up their spray and grace- ful gulls float about us. It is all color, motion, never ceasing variety. Sailors consider it a lucky omen to have one parson on board; more than this, it is said, brings bad luck, so it was my fortune to be all alone in this capacity and to take the services on Sunday. We had our reverent worship in the saloon, with the old familiar English Prayer Book and Hymns Ancient and Modern. A young lady from Manitoba, played the hymns and all joined heartily in their singing. There is something always touching in the sound of human voices on the sea, as they are lifted in the songs of home or of heaven. Our hymns had the pathos which ever pertains to such conditions. I shall not soon forget our congregation of that day; close by was a leading actress from a London theatre with some of her people devoutly joining; in front was my old friend from near Chicago, though I did not know 22 Co (Jfnglano anti 13acfe. then who he was ; not far off was a young mother from far northwestern Canada, with her little boy, a dream of beauty and as good as gold. She told me that she had traveled fifty miles to have him bap- tized "in church," as she said with proper emphasis. Although a sermon is not usually ex- pected or encouraged at sea, yet I ven- tured a few words, taking as my theme the verse of the psalm, " They that go down to the sea in ships," etc. My theme was the sea a revealer of God, and the ship a teacher of human duty to God and to our neighbor. The sea revealed God — in its infinity — as being the source of life — as being changeless under appar- ent change. The ship taught liberty of will within prescribed limits; obedience to constituted authority and the united interest of all humanity. Brevity had to be studied. After the service the purser said it was all right and so all were pleased. In another Sunday we shall all be scattered, never perhaps to meet again; soon land will be reached and our voyage will come to an end. At Sea, December /j, iSgi. Co ©nglanD ano 13acfc. 23 III. MY first Sunday in the old land was bright and beautiful, not a breath of air stirring and a delicious tender sky with fleecy clouds hung over all. It was hard to think the balmy air was in Decem- ber weather. A brisk walk from Black- rock brought us through part of Cork to the splendid cathedral of St. Finn Bar. This is a graceful structure with three massive stone spires. It is from a design by Burgess and is more Norman than Gothic in appearance, having a decidedly foreign air, unlike the English ideal. One of the chief charms of the interior is that from no point can you see the entire extent. There is always something unseen and beyond. The service happened to be an ordina- tion. There were two candidates for the diaconate and four for the priesthood. Matins were sung with full choir and with good effect. The boys' voices were 24 Co ©nglano attfc ftacfe. well trained in a soft, delicate manner, and the general effect was tender and sympathetic, but all was taken in such a high pitch and with such rapidity that congregational participation was out of the question. One or two conscientious individuals near me were doing their best to join in, utterly unconscious of the ludi- crous effect of a man full grown, singing off the Confession in a high falsetto man- ner. All around was silence except from those few absurd attempts to make the people's part a reality with vocal expres- sion. A low pitch for Confession and all the opening part of the service, with the plain song in unison by choir and people, would make all right and vastly popular- ize the choral service. Matins over a fine sermon was preached by Dean Warren, on the text, " Sanctify them through Thy truth." Its aim was to show the importance of a consecrated ministry and its work in this present world. It led up to the sacramental idea, but did not express it or even allude to it. The alms of the people were at this point collected and offered, and thereupon, until the close of the service, the people Co ffinglatrti aria -Back. 25 kept dribbling out of the church. First, the choir left in a body, and then without note of music or any adjunct whatever, suggesting the greater solemnities, the services of ordination and the Holy Eucharist were proceeded with. After the eloquent sermon by the Dean and the emphasis he jxit upon the ministry and its work, it seemed a strange thing to put the conferring of such a dig- nity and the exercise of its greatest power in such a corner. The dribble of the congregation went on and on until at the close about fourteen people remained in the church outside of the clergy. It was hopeful to hear the clear Catholic ring of the Ordinal, which fortunately (providentially, rather, one should write) has received none of the damaging changes sustained by other portions of the Prayer Book of the Church of Ireland. A young Irish friend with me heard with astonishment the words: "Whose sins thou dost forgive, they are forgiven, and whose sins thou dost retain, they arc retained." He had never seen an ordination before, he had heard the priest- 26 Co <£nglantj ano $3acfc. hood denied, he did not know such words were in the book, he never knew that the priesthood in the church of Ireland was thus asserted and as clearly conveyed. To judge of the effect upon my young friend, it seemed a pity that such a teaching rite was administered in an emptied church. The afternoon was spent in lovely walks through woods and fields, watching the pearly tints of the setting sun. A landscape, beautiful as Italy, stretched before us, tall pines rising above the elms and beeches suggested the summer land; neither was the sentiment arising from the decay of ancient splendor absent, for we had our walk through the unoccupied park of a vast deserted mansion. We had rambled through its halls and corri- dors, climbed its marble staircase, entered the great silent ballroom, and traversed the tumble-down conservatory, where a passion flower still trailed its pathetic ten- drils, and a Virginia creeper was even yet bravely in bloom. How sad it all was, yet the view from the windows over the Lee was like Tivoli, the mirth and grace of human life had all passed away. What will the new order bring? • Eo (Snglanti anti liacft. 27 The new order in the Church prom- ises something at least; neatness, order, interest, all indicate progress. At the cathedral the Dean gave out notice of a first Celehration at seven, Christmas morning, a second Celebration, choral, at eight, and choral Matins and sermon by the Lord Bishop at n 130 a. m. I wish I could be present, but I must be among my own kindred in the rural parish where they dwell, where also are the graves of a household. At night we worshipped in the church at Blackrock. The singing was quite fair from a choir of men and women, the congregation though thin, was devout, and the sermon, if not eloquent, was earnest and helpful. The stars lit us home through the windings of the way which here and there resounded with sonsrs whose refrains reminded us that we were within the range of that inex- plicable relation, Irish politics. Golden Terrace, Blackrock, December 27, 1891. 28 &o u5nglanb anti iiack. IV. PERHAPS you would like to know how I spent my Christmas Day in Ireland. Come with me, then, as we drive through eight miles of water- soaked country under a cloudy sky to Kilmallock. Do not suppose, however, that the drive is unpleasant. Far from it. The fields are green, the air is mild, cat- tle are in the pastures, and the occasional song of a bird is heard. The winding road brings us at last in sight of the town. It lies among mead- ows through which flows in graceful curves, a river whose poetical Celtic name is Lubach or The Dawn. Within the embrace of this flood stands an ancient ruin, once the happy home of Domini- cans. The Irish Archaeological Society has recently put it in some order, and the graceful lancet windows and unroofed nave, aisles, choir, and great square tower look interesting and picturesque. Not far Co <$n giant) anti i$a.ck. 29 off is one of the ancient gates of the town, under which, in days of old, many an armed band entered with booty or passed forth to war. It is now in better use, being occupied by a school. Within the town is another ruin, the ancient church of SS. Peter and Paul. It has nave and aisles and chapels, and one of Ireland's famous round towers; all open to the sky, and embowered in luxurious ivy. The choir of this ancient church is rcofed in and fitted for divine service. The sweet-toned bell was ringing out from the round tower, still used as a belfry, as we entered. We found the services fairly rendered. The hymns were the familiar Adestc Fideles and " Hark, the herald angels sing." The chants of Matins were also sung, the choir, consist- ing of ladies and gentlemen, giving them with great sweetness. But here too, as elsewhere in Ireland, not a note of music was used in the celebration, and the same sad exodus took place, eight or ten re- mained for the Holy Eucharist, all the rest departed. We noticed that in the Irish Prayer Book the eastward position is prohibited, and the clergyman is for- 30 2To y?nglantj anb 33acfc. bidden, while offering prayer, to turn his back upon the people. The effect of this in the conduct of the service, seems strangely irreverent to one accustomed to our American ways. Crosses over the altar, or anywhere in the church, we found also explicitly prohibited. How strange! in the Church of St. Patrick, and in a land whose most dignified mon- uments are the existing crosses of the ancient Irish Church ! We had in the service an excellent sermon, delivered without manuscript, from the rector. His red hood declared him to be a D. D. from Trinity College, Dublin. It was from the text: "What think ye of Christ?" It was an appeal for fullness of knowledge as to the verit- able Manhood and Godhead of our Blessed Lord. It lacked the practical application which might be given, by pointing out how access to that Manhood and to that Godhead might now be had through the Blessed Sacraments; but it may seem ungracious thus to criticise. Perhaps the art of the sermon was in permitting the hearer to make this appli- cation, silently, for himself. 2To (Pnglantj ant) iiacfe. 31 The ancient choir thus fitted up for worship presented a plain appearance. There was some Christmas decoration of the traditional holly and ivy, and a holly wreath, suggesting by its very circle, a traversing cross, hung over the Holy Table. The most beautiful thing in the church was the graceful five-lancet win- dow in the east end, a relic of past ages. The whole place was devoid of orna- ment, except the mural tablets to departed social greatness, but this five-light lancet window shed over all atone of solemnity and distinction. As we left the church, groups of eager-looking lads and lasses lined the way at each side, evidently expecting something. What this was, we soon learned when we saw the rector scatter- ing coppers among them for an indis- criminate scramble. There was fun and shouting from the merry group, during which we mounted our trap and drove home to a happy fireside and pleasant cheer, having on the whole a very happy Christmas Day in Ireland. Adamstown, Knocklong, December jo, i8qi. 32 Co ^nglano anfo ISacfc. V. MY little visit to Dublin had some points of Church interest. My Sunday was spent there, and coincided with the general excitement caused by the lamented death of Prince Albert Vic- tor, Duke of Clarence and Avondale. I went to St. Bartholomew's at eleven o'clock, and found a most refreshing service. The church is beautiful, a gothic structure well put together, with a pecu- liar arrangement of the transepts, each of which is composed of two bays, placed side by side, with supporting pillars between the two. This gives space and variety, and does away with the necessity of the expensive construction of roof where the transepts are built as high as the nave. By the church is a commodious church hall, and yet again near that, a fair vicarage ; church and all enclosed in one garden. The chancel was well furnished, need- Co (Dnglatrti anti i3acfe. 33 ing only the lights; the service was fully choral, Matins and Celebration; the boys'' voices were of surpassing sweetness, and the music was reverently done; care was shown in ever)' detail, the Gregorian chanting of the Psalter being as tenderly done as the most elaborate part of the service. How good it was to be one of such a worshipping congregation! There seemed to be no fear of external rever- ence, and one could see here and there the use of the sacred sign. We had a ser- mon on the Marriage in Cana of Galilee, a clear, out-spoken Catholic sermon, with no uncertain sound. I must mention a point the preacher made which occurred to myself when studying the miracle. It was this, that there is no reason why we should conclude that all the water in the waterpots was turned into wine. The letter would imply that only the water which was drawn out was thus miracu- lously changed. I remember seeing a picture once where this idea was depicted as the water from one of the vessels was being poured into that in the hands of the servant, the curving stream in the descent showed the change from the 34 &o (Pnglanti anto $3arfc. clear water to the ruddy wine. The rev- erent awe on the faces of the servants gave comment to the wonder. As I followed the service, I saw how impossible it is by repressive rubric to hin- der the outcome of truth. The preacher was also Celebrant, and even if he had not referred in his sermon to the Real Presence, one would have known his faith to see him at the altar. It was in- deed a delight to be at St. Bartholo- mew's, Dublin. In the afternoon we went to St. Pat- rick's. How pathetic it is to enter such a place. The traditions of Church and State still linger there. The banners of the knights hang down over the stalls in the choir with the helmets and swords of chivalry, but how different all was from the tone at St. Bartholomew's! The choir had about it all, a sort of sturdy, honest irreligiousness. They came in, eyes all about them. They took their places and lolled about bravely. They sang well and lustily. That they should sing was evidently the reason, and the prime reason, of their being there. So it went. £a (Pnglanti anfc 33acfc. 35 The organ was gloriously played by Sir Robert Stewart, sympathetic to the last degree. His improvisation at the commencement of service was masterly; at first a few notes; then a gradual in- crease until the majestic organ throbbed with life under his facile hands. All round him through the service were young men who hung upon his every action, and helped him con amore with the stops. Beautiful it was, like a father with his children, but there was danger in it too, for at times, proceedings which might not be really so, looked like indif- ference or irreverence. What musician is there that does not know the dangers which lurk about an organ keyboard dur- ing divine service. The Psalms were splendidly chanted to florid chants: such a contrast to the use of St. Bartholomew, where the psalter stood out in most impressive simplicity. One does not care particularly for the words in such rapturous harmonies, but in the simple style, the words are every- thing. The service was Stewart, full of melody, one anthem was by Spohr, and the second the grand old composition by 36 Co <&nglant> ano $3ack. Blow, " I beheld, and lo, a great multi- tude." I had not heard it for many and many a year, but fresh and vivid and pic- turesque it was as ever. The tenor solo, " These are they," was especially touch- ing:. I fear it might be considered tedi- ous nowadays, I mean the anthem as a whole. For American use, some of its involved verse parts might be cut out. Enough is left of simple grandeur and effective music to make a most inrpressive addition to choir music. The whole service was a grand one. The crowded church, the aged and ven- erable clergy, and the eloquent sermon with loyal allusion in pathetic phrases to the great sorrow known to all, made a magnificent whole. It was too dark and too late to visit the tomb of Swift and the well of St. Patrick, which still bubbles up within the church. Indeed, it was hard to move out of the building, for the great congregation at the close of ser- vice surged up into the choir to pass by the organ and organist as the Dead March, from Saul, gave forth its solemn strains. Co <£nglano ano 13acfc. 37 Through the crowded streets we walked to the Shelbourne, where the evening was spent in pleasant converse about Chicago friends and others. It came about this way: I noticed at the table d^Jiote a gentleman whom I thought must be an American. He had a certain quick way about him, alert and keen. He nervously wiped his plate off once with his napkin. He seemed to be wide awake all over, he took the little bit of ice cream they give you on this side, in a bite or two, and asked for more; so, at the first opportunity, I bowed to him, feeling he must be an American. I was mistaken. When I entered the reading room after dinner on Sunday night, he bowed to me, opened a conversation at once, and when he heard of Chicago, he surprised me further by saving: "I heard a grand ser- mon on Atheism once, from your Bishop out there, when he was visiting Bermuda, where I was stationed with my regi- ment." So there was, after all, a link between u>. What a talk we had there. I hope I talked "wiser than I knew," for in that 38 &o ©nglairti ant $3acfc. little group by the fire in the Dublin inn, were gone over all manner of questions relating to American affairs, religious, social, political, and prospective. Dublin, January 18, i8g2. O ggnglairt anti tfacfc. 39 VI. AFTER leaving Dublin, my next point was near Newry, at the hospitable home of my friend, the rector of Donaghmore. Years had elapsed since we walked together as friends in Chi- cago, but bright and fresh was the cheery voice which greeted us on the railway platform at Goraghwood, where we got off our train. The snow lingered here and there, as we drove four miles over hill and dale to our destination, the way enlivened by many a question of places and friends at the other side. How lovely are such meetings of friends; tinged thev must be with a certain tone of sadness, for years have flown, and changes have come, and friends are spoken of who cannot answer ever here on earth again: Adsum! The Rev. Mr. Cowan showed us the grey outside of his church, with its tall square tower in the dim light of evening, 4° Co ©nglarrti ant) SSarfc. and soon thereafter we were within the warm walls of the rectory, and could enjoy the clamor of the crows outside in -the swaying tree tops. Our good friend was a little solicitous about our comfort in our room, and suggested for us a fire, " but," said he, " I shall have to get a crow's nest dug out of the chimney first." Well, of course I could not be so selfish as to permit such an interesting domestic establishment to be uprooted for my lux- ury, so I did without the fire, and learned the knack of avoiding the sharp chill of linen sheets by sleeping boldly next the blankets. In the morning I felt no ill from the cold room — rather the reverse — helped too by the consciousness of not having dealt any cruelty to animals. I found Donaghmore church and graveyard a most interesting study. The church is on the site of an ancient found- ation of the Culdees, and the site itself, as well as some of the surrounding fields, contains many curious and extensive sub- terranean constructions. These interest- ing remains of either a warlike or ascetic use, were accidentally discovered in low- anto 3i5acfe. dean. It was the account of our Lord walking upon the water, and St. Peter's heroic desire to come to Him thereon. The tone was different, and the uncon- scious art not so effective as in Canon Farrar's reading, but both Lessons were the living effective part of the service from an emotional aspect. The anthem was a commonplace affair by Rogers, I think, nothing but a succes- sion of sounds on the words: " Ye that by night stand in the house of the Lord." Not quite the thing for Matins. Ah, if the pathos of first or second Lesson had been taken up in the anthem and empha- sized by the glory of good music, and that good choir, how well it would have been! It might have been the sorrow of Jacob, or the aspiring faith of Peter, or the assuring voice of Christ, but instead it was a selection without thought. The service over, I went once round the Abbey and the chapels clustered about the incomparable chapel of Henry the Seventh. What thoughts come as one goes from the shrine of the Confessor to that tomb of another Edward, which declares the stripling to be " Under 2To aria *3acfc. 89 and needless variations. When at St. Andrew's, Wells Street, I sat, as I did elsewhere, on the Epistle side, but in a short time I was shown the error of my way by the verger, who ordered me across the aisle. As one goes about, one longs for that definite uniformity in ritual usage which is such a powerful witness for obedience to authority. In due time doubtless it will come. On my way out from St. Alban's, I visited the Mackonochie Memorial Chapel. It seemed to me perfect. It is but a small place, twenty-seven feet eight inches by sixteen feet four inches, but it has a dig- nity and a beauty unsurpassed. The ex- quisite grace and finish of every part take away the sense of smallness, while the fullness of detail, the richness of symbolic allusion in every line, and the graceful delicacy of the sculptured figures and varied carvings, convey a sense of at leasl spiritual spaciousness, for when there, you are in the presence of great ideas. A recumbent white marble figrure of Father Mackonochie is in the sculptor's hands, as also a beautiful group for the front of the altar. It is a fitting, and in every 90 Co UFnglanc an* Uacfe. way worthy, memorial of a faithful priest. In the afternoon we made a call at the historic rooms of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, where the genial secretary, Rev. Mr. Tucker, made us much at home. I am sure all Ameri- can clergy visiting London, would find it pleasant to look in at the central point of that great force which goes out over the whole earth, and which in the past has left its mark upon the Church in America. I noticed as I passed through the office, large packing cases with their tropical-looking tin linings, all marked for Natal. Delahay Street, where the office is, is near the Downing Street govern- ment mansions. As I left the door, the rain descended in torrents, and with some very fine-looking people I took shelter under one of the great porches, but bethinking myself of the Abbey close at hand, and time for Evensong lacking only ten minutes, I made a dash for that haven, and got there in time for a glori- ous service; a splendid anthem from the Messiah, consisting of the aria, " The Lord whom ye seek," and the chorus, Co (JFnglano ano $3acfc. 9 1 " Behold the Lamb of God." Whether the rain or the holiday was the efficient cause of the large congregation, I know not, but large it was. We had a nice clear sermon, also, of about fifteen minutes, on the festival. Still raining at the close, it was convenient to take a bus to Oxford Street, where, alighting near All Saints', Margaret Street, we paid our usual visit to that lovely church, and heard a plain simple Evensong, full of devotion, and sung all through to Gregorian tones. A walk thence by the glittering shops and through the crowded streets, brought us to our hotel home and earned rest. London, February 2, 1892. 92 lace, where, especially on Saturdays, one may find a busy scene indeed, everything possible on sale — fish, flesh and fowl, with all sorts of commodities you can im- agine. The part of the market given up to flowers was particularly attractive. I was much pleased with the tasteful arrangement of the stalls, and the appre- ciative selection of ivy, laurel, and other shrubs, as well as harmonious groups of choicer plants. In my wandering about among the booths and in the streets, I came on an old darkey selling papers. Haying bought one I got into conversation with him, and soon learned from him in the soft full voice of the genuine darkey, that he had shipped from Ww Haven fifteen years before, and that he had been in Notting- ham ever since. When I asked him if he ever wanted to go back to America, " No, sah," said he, " I can lay my bones 96 2To UFnglnnli nnto $3acfc. heah, as well as theah, I am as neah to Him." There was a touching trust in his poor old face, and a humble content worth imitating. Lenton, Nottingham, February J, 18Q2. 2To ©nglanti anti iiacfe. 97 XV. I HAVE come from a most interesting experience here in Nottingham. It was in an immense warehouse where lace curtains are finished and put upon the market in all parts of the world; where the finer sorts of laces are produced in splendid imitation of old point, in all its historical varieties, which I am not learned enough to name; where all manner of dainty nicknacks in trimmings are turned out by machinery which almost seems to think; to this immense establishment I was driven for the opening of the day at 8: 30 a. m., and what do you suppose was this beginning? It was the united prayers and praises of employers and employed, all together, some five hundred of them, in a well-appointed chapel, with good organ, choir, and choral service. It was a most delightful thing to hear that multitude sing with lusty voices, "The 98 2To (!?nglant! ant) $3ark. King of Love, my Shepherd is. His goodness faileth never." From the platform I watched them all as they came in, quietly, briskly, orderly, and then there was in so many instances, the reverent bowing down for silent prayer. Men, women, and girls, alto- gether in that great chapel in the base- ment of the huge warehouse. It was a lovely sight. The service book is a com- pilation from the Book of Common Prayer, a varying portion being taken for each day; addresses are added on Tuesdays and Thursdays, but the whole service is kept within half an hour. The service this morning consisted of a hymn, a few collects, the decalogue with re- sponses, and the prayer for Christ's Church Militant, the address, and bene- diction. It was my privilege to give the ad- dress, and few occasions ever gave me such pleasure. I had heard the service in St. George's, Windsor; in St. Paul's, and the Abbey, but nowhere did it seem so thrilling as uttered by those work people before their daily toil. It certainly is a happy idea to assem- an* ISarfc. 105 and ask for the verger, Mr. Harvey. This we did, but every door was locked. The external beauty made one long*- all the more for that which was within. In this fix we bethought us of the chap- lain, and went to his residence. The kindly spoken servants told us with regret that he was away and would not be home until night, suggesting to us that we should see the Duke's housekeeper who could possibly open the church for us. We soon saw this good lady; cheery and bright she was, in her great apart- ment which was covered with family pictures and filled at one side with an immense cabinet crowded with rare old china. Back we went with her to the parson's house where after a little search she found his keys, and opened for us the church doors. ft is, without exception, the most stately and harmonious small church I have ever seen. I could only take a re- gretfully rapid glance over the whole place, and take in the general effect, for I had yet to drive hack eighteen miles to reach home. I entered at the side door, a little, nar- 106 Eo <£nglanto airti $3acfe. row affair, but at once went clown the nave to the western entrance to get the impression, first, of the whole building. The church is cruciform, a nave with choir, and transepts, and choir aisles. The south choir aisle contains the Lady chapel; the north choir aisle, the organ chamber, and vestry rooms. The interior and ex- terior are done in warm-tinted stone, like our Lake Superior sandstone; the win- dows are placed high, and the open roof, exquisite in proportion. The whole place has such a satisfying, harmonious effect — glass, woodwork, carved stone, orna- ments, everything — that the eye is di- verted from detail. One gets an impres- sion of a small interior, magnificent in itself, commanding reverent admiration as a whole. You look through the open door of the choir screen and see the altar, glorious in itself and white with its six lights and other groups of tapers! It is splendidly vested, and rich in every ornament, the cross, the tabernacle, the candlesticks, faultless in taste and work- manship. Back again the eye is drawn to the screen. I only have an impression Co vPnglanti anc ISarfe. 107 of rich wood carving, with saints, and angels, and sacred symbols over all. What attracted me most was a unique looking rood, with the Blessed Virgin and St. John, an elaborate piece of carv- ing, hanging suspended over the screen itself, while on the screen stood six im- mense candlesticks holding tall wax tapers. The nave and side chapel were seated with plain chairs; all were alike, the Duke and his family having no other dis- tinction than that of being in the front row. The north transept was occupied by a beautifully carved confessional, and the south transept by the font. After this hurried glance at the whole building from the nave, I entered the Lady chapel. The red light told me the sacrament was reserved upon the altar. From thence I went to the high altar in the choir. Here the housekeeper re- moved the antependium and disclosed the sculptures in the altar front, done in purest white marble. The choir stalls are cedar and, I think, mahogany. Every bench - end, every 108 Co i£nglanTj ana i3arfc. panel, is a study and a lesson, Saints, and prophets, and martyrs, angels and arch- angels, all are there in loveliest form; hangings of choicest velvet, lovely tints of blue and green, with subdued orna- ments of flower and fruit, all are com- bined in the daintiest and most perfect fashion for this church of St. Mary the Virgin at Clumber. From it, with all its beauty, my mind turned to St. Mary's, Burlington, New Jersey, the creation of Bishop Doane. The same cruciform shape, the same rich tint of stone, the same great central spire, and if not the same in beauty, at least under the same invocation to St. Mary, and witness to the same love. The drive home was even more pleas- ant than our coming, for the keen north- easter was to our backs, and beauties of wood and field not seen before made themselves evident. Both journeys were brightened by the sweet hospitalities of a charming home, where we tarried for luncheon and for tea. That was a happy hour we had turning over the leaves of an illustrated book on horses and dogs with an enthusiastic young sportsman not 2Ho (PnglanTi anti iSatk. 109 vet out of petticoats. Happy home, happy children, splendid drive, and glori- ous church at Clumber, the point of our pilgrimage. Southwell, Nottingham^ February sj, i8g2. no ano laarfc. 121 prayer, as he stands before you. Yes, there he was, the same slight figure, but a little increased in bulk ; the same black hair, but tonsured by the advancing years; the same earnest face; but above all the same grand sympathetic voice. Powerfully it rang out as the text was uttered: "Blow the trumpet in Zion, sanctify a fast, call a solemn assembly." For an hour he held us in his hands. He showed us glimpses of the great ques- tions of the day, of the duty and responsi- bilitv of the Church regarding them, and of our personal share in the whole mat- ter. A thrilled hush was over that con- gregation as the speaker came to the close of his impassioned peroration. I can remember none of it, but the effect of the whole is with me, capped and cli- maxed with the utterance of the last word in ecstatic tones, the Name of names, "Jesus." There was no concluding hymn or blessing from the altar; the preacher him- self, after a moment's pause, gave the benediction from the pulpit, and all was over. I rather liked this way. Here and there were kneeling figures, moved i22 &o ©nglairti anti JSack. by the impassioned words, while the vast throng moved out with the impression of the sermon fresh and undisturbed in their hearts. It was a grand ending of my Ash Wednesday. Oxford, March 2, 1892. Co ffinglanT) anti $3acfe. 123 XIX. I ATTENDED, by invitation, a meet- ing of the Church Congregational Music Association, held at the Church House, in Dean's Yard, Westminster, one day last week. Church House, as yet, is the fine old mansion now occupying the site hereafter to be covered by a more ecclesiastical pile. When the whole west end of Dean's Yard is duly filled with the projected magnificent building, it will he a worthv addition to that classic locality. How quaint and black and dingy Dean's Yard appears. You look across at the unpretending front, and see where the Dean of royal Westminster lives, and you rather rejoice that Archdeacon Farrar has a handsome Gothic bay window to look out of, and let in all that can be got of light, out of the grey London air. I was welcomed by the genial secre- tary, Mr. Griffiths, who remarked that though I had furthercst to come — from 124 Co ©nglanti ano $3arfe. Chicago — I was Jirst there. We soon had our meeting in full blast, presided over by Bishop Mitchinson, who remem- bered me, after the lapse of, perhaps, twenty years, since I visited him in Can- terbury. The report read gave an encour- aging outlook for this young society. The Bishop made an admirable address on the great need of reform in our Church music, and several took part most inter- estingly, in the discussion. There are several difficulties in the way of Church congregational music, much as it is to be desired. The first and chiefest is, that to take part in Matins or Evensong, one must be able to turn the book readily, that is, find the places, and then there must be the power to read fluently and well, otherwise it will not be possible to take part even in the Psalter, when read, and much less when sung. An unvarying set of Sunday Psalms thoroughly well known, like the Venite or Canticles, might be learned, but the re- curring Psalms for the day present diffi- culties to the ordinary worshipper. The speed, too, of the chanting, with intri- cate harmonies and melodies, all are hin- 2To <&nglaittJ anto 13acfe. 125 drances. I have never yet heard a clear, good congregational rendering of a chant; the nearest approach to it is the occa- sional singing of our own traditional Glo- ria in Excels is as rendered by large bodies of voices in our conventions. This is slow, well known, and of simple har- monic construction, and limited range. I have recently looked over a book of new tunes here, and not five in the volume were capable of congregational render- ing. They were one succession of sus- pended harmonies, stimulating to a jaded professional ear, but confusing utterly to the simple layman in the divine art. It was an absolute relief to play over such a tune as St. Ann's, and feel the solid swing of its clear melody and straightfor- ward harmony. People can sing such tunes taken with lots of good, loud organ, a grave, steady well-marked time, and no fancy expression. People speak of the grand effect of the German chorale. It is got in this very way. The organist pulls out all his stops, the tune is familiar, the time slow, and the people sing in unison. Here is per- haps the real crux. English people, and i26 Co (£nglartD ano 13acfc. Americans also, love to sing in harmo- nies. Let them do so, I say, but let the harmonies be as simple as possible, and always related to the diatonic scale. I was in St. Mary's, Nottingham, last Sun- day evening — a noble church, and grand congregation. Onlv in one chant was the effect full, for the people tried to sing, and that was a simple chant to Nunc Dimittis, by Blow, in E minor. That chant was joined in all over the church, while the others, intricate and involved, were merely muttered by the people. So in the hymns, "Jesus, lover of my soul" was taken too fast, and the last hymn, to a simple, though sentimental tune, was joined in heartily. The Communion service prop- erly and simply set, forms the best basis for congregational singing, because the principal parts never vary, that is, the Kyrie, Credo, Sa/ictus, etc., and Gloria in Excelsis. The responses, likewise, are always the same. In all Church services the choir, as such, is a necessary adjunct, even if the choir be represented by one acolyte. Hence, a really perfect service ought to have priest, choir, and people, in active 2To <£ng(airtj anto -Back. 127 co-operation. I believe something like the following plan would improve our services in a congregational aspect: Let the opening part of Matins or Evensong be taken on a low note, and in unison, responses and all, to end of Venite. Let the Psalms be chanted, not choirwise, but by a single voice in the odd verses, answered by the full choir in the even verses. Let the congregation follow as they can, the full body of sound answering the single voice will give cour- age for their effort; but let all join in the recurring Gloria Patri. the organist making due pause for this united outburst of praise. I heard this effect produced at the Festival Service in St. Paul's when the full orchestra joined in with the choir, at the end of each recurring Psalm. On that occasion the Psalms were sung by the Cathedral Choir alone; other choirs present, with the orchestra, joining only in the Gloria Patri. Had the people been instructed to be silent in the Ps;ilter, until each oft-repeated Gloria Patri, the effect would have been sublime. This plan recognizes, too, the grace of listen- ing devoutly to Church music; for i28 Co ©nglanti antJ ^arft. I am confident that the silent reading of the Psalms by the people as they are sung by the choir, is a most spiritual exercise and meditation, the recurring Gloria sung by all, comes then with heart and soul. The Te Deum and Can- ticles might be sung in like fashion, but as the Te Deum ends with the odd verse, "O Lord, in Thee, etc.," that verse might be well repeated by entire congregation and choir, like the ancient pneuma. Four simple settings of the Credo, of which Merbecke should be one, would give variety and stability to the Communion service; Sanctns might follow the same rule, while the Agnus and Benedictus might be left generally to the choir. One must recognize that choirs are a necessary adjunct of divine service; con- gregational music must not usurp their place, while ample opportunity for con- gregational music must be given by choirs in stately, well marked, simple hymns, chants, and responses. Oxford, March j, i8q2. 3To t^nglnnn anfc ^arfe. 129 XX. MY first Sunday in Oxford, this visit, gave me such pleasure that I must give in detail its many delights. It opened with an early Celehration at St. Barnahas, where was a goodly number of communicants, and a reverent service. I hoped to have attended the later Celebra- tion at this church, when Fr. Maturin was to be the preacher, but the historic Hampton Lecture at the historic St. Mary's, proved too strong a counter at- traction. To St. Mary's then, I went, and was fortunate enough to meet one of the Heads of Houses at the door, who saw that I had an excellent seat, in a privil- edged place, near the pulpit. There are few more interesting sights in Oxford than the delivery <>f those Bampton Lectures. Each annually re- curring course witnesses to the generous spirit of the Rev. John Hampton, canon of Salisbury, who founded them many ijo Co (JPnglanto ant i3acfc. years ago. The scene in itself is ever fresh and attractive. The church of St. Mary the Virgin, Oxford, is divided by the organ screen into choir and nave. The latter is essentiallv a preaching place; a great gallery occupies the west end and north side; here the undergradu- ates sit, a goodly company — to me, ever a fair sight, pathetic and inspiring in its outlook and prospects. Underneath the galleries, and in every available space, are seats for whoever can get them, while the great nave space is set apart for the college dons of various grades. In the center of the north side of the nave, fac- ing the south, is a high seat for the vice- chancellor; and directly opposite is the historic pulpit, where the best brain of Oxford has stood up to teach from that " Word " whose open page is blazoned on the arms of the university: Dominns illuminatio mea. Silently and quietly, as English congregations can do so well, sit that great assembly, awaiting the formal entrance of the vice-chancellor, the distinguished Officers of Oxford, the preacher of the day, and their retinue. Looking down on the great throng from *Fo f the choral Celebration. There was no pause after Christ's Church Mil- itant prayer here, and a reverent congre- gation heartily joined through all, to the close. I hope I shall see the new church built at Cowley. The old Iron church has many tender memories, but a proper setting for such services and such preach- ing is sadly needed. The grand site on [ffley Road stands ready for occupancy, and I am sure that American Church- men owe many a debt to Father Hall and the .Society of St. John tin- Evangelist, which offerings for the new church here would gracefully acknowledge. Of the dinner succeeding at Cowley, of the sweet free hours in the common room, i34 2To ©ttglanfc anti ISarft. where Fathers Page, Maturin, and Hall, were present, with many others; of the hours in the chapel, of the pleasant chat resumed again in the library, I can but give a glimpse, and pass on at once to our afternoon walk to Iffley church. The whole sky was overcast with in- digo clouds, giving a tender light upon the brown landscape, just the setting for that gray tower and antique church, dat- ing from King Stephen. The vicar met us within the walls, and pointed out the rich Norman arches, and all the other features of this quaint building. But old as the church was, the hoary life of the great yew tree in the churchyard seemed more awful and venerable. How sweet it was to wander among the graves, pale with snowdrops, and here and there gleaming with the joyous gold of the crocus. Having: to be back to Oxford for Evensong at five, we soon turned our steps thitherward. The trees, the cot- tages, the clouds, the distant tender lines of the landscape, the rosy children by the wayside, the peaceful groups of peo- ple out for a walk like ourselves, the quaint, gnarled old couple in the comical Co iPnglano ano iJarfe. 135 old cart drawn by a most diminutive don- key, all gave us something to look at, and laugh at too, perhaps, until we were once more at Magdalen Bridge, and turned in at Xew College, where we heard Evensong in grandest Anglican style. But before doing this we had a lovely turn or two in the college gardens, to occupy our time until the chapel was open; lovely spot, with the old ivy- covered walls of mediaeval Oxford form- ing its boundary on one side, and the great Gothic pile of the college buildings the other, while in the midst are stately trees and evergreens, green sward and flower beds, where fairy primroses are asleep, waiting for the sunshine to kiss them into life. The service was the splendid and sombre Walmsley in D minor, spoiled for me because I was under the organ in the ante-chapel. The anthem was from Men- delssohn, including "If with all your hearts," and (he quartette, "Cast thy burden upon the Lord," all sung angelic- ally. The best part of the service was the hymn, " When I survey the won- 136 Co (Pnglanto ana $3acft. drous cross," sung after Evensong by the choir and all the students. This was fol- lowed by the blessing, and this again by Stainer's sevenfold Amen, sung, I do think, even better than at St. Paul's; and so, after that solemn hush which follows such deep emotions, the organ thundered forth, and all the students, clergy, and others, surpliced as they were, crowded out into the ante-chapel, sitting about to listen to the concluding music of the great organ. A quiet evening, after all this day, was enjoyable. Even Father Hall, preaching in a church near by, could not entice us out from our fireside. Cold as the outer air was, we could not help opening our windows as the night wore on, to let in the clangor of the bells from the tower of St. Giles's near by, which in their many changes from half past eight to after nine o'clock, seemed to bid us a musical good night. Oxford, March 6, iSg2. Eo 13acfc. 157 and reverence. Mummies generally seem to have a bad time of it. I see that skull still, so fair and round, and the braided tress and the page of Homer. I walked on through the great corri- dors of the upper hall, filled with curios, books, and the pictures of famous men and women; a little gift of Archbishop Laud attracted me. It was an Arabian astrolabe to take the position of the stars; another near it, arranged for the latitude of Morocco, was the gift of Selden. They brought up visions of " curious arts," of horoscopes and astrologers, and those who know the heavenly bodies. I asked my- self, if sun spots affect our weather, why may not planets affect the subtler essences of our being? All things inhere in suit- stance, and why may not substance acton substance through the vast mystery of the universe ? At last, Saturday, the nineteenth of March, came, and I had to get me to Lon- don to preach at the Savoy on Sunday, so the afternoon saw me regretfully in the train, sweeping away from that brave concourse of spires, and domes, and flood- encircled groves, which make up Oxford. 158 <&o (Pnglanto anb 33arfc. What must this last sweet glimpse be to those who know they never will return — " the spires and towers of Oxford, from the railway! " But before I leave, I must say that among the many pleasant mem- ories of Oxford, few stand out with more vividness than those of my little visits to the college common rooms. There is a delightful seclusion in them, and a cheer- ful companionship which is most inspir- ing. You have dined in Hall and enjoyed even- moment of it — the genial hospital- ity, the good fare, the free open talk; but after all those good things, something bet- ter yet awaits you; you are ushered into the sacred privacy of the common room, and there an hour, or more is spent in genial leisure, wise and playful talk, and, with it all, the inner man is by no means forgotten . In one pleasant room, dark with its panelled sides and ceiling, before its ample lire-place were ranged in semi-circle aline of chairs and tables, all facing towards the altar of friendship, the blazing hearth. Surely such a custom of friendly and scholarly intercourse must have an excel- Co ©nglano ano $3acft. 159 lent influence upon the lives of all. One here learns how men may differ as to view, but be the best of friends, how they may be intent in the little circle of their own pursuits, but yet know also, full well, of that greater circle of human sympathies and immortal aims which embraces all souls within its limits. Such intercourse must refine, broaden and enlarge those who arc within its genial power. I should like to see such a common room for the Professors in our seminaries, where they could have daily social inter- course, and, for a brief hour, at least, be removed from carking care, and the in- tense consciousness of the individual bur- den. Another room, which will dwell in my mind, was large and handsome. The wax tapers upon the well- polished ma- hogany did not dispel the friendly gloom of the dark corners, nor bring into promi- nence the features of the portraits upon the walls. Glimpses of the past they seemed, and not without a living sympa- thy with the geniality of the hour. What a picture it all made — the leaping lights of the great coal fire, the grave gowned 160 anti ISarfc. 169 pletely en rapport in the study of that great music, and when she rose to leave with her party, and bent her gracious head and thanked me for the pleasure I had given her, I felt as if we had known each other for years. It is indeed deligfht- ful to touch the chords of sympathy in kindred hearts, though utterly unknown to each other in the lower planes of ordi- nary life. This occurs so often in one's travels in railroad cars, by the wayside, or in galleries of art. On my way once to Oxford, I had a most delightful hour with two utter strangers. Our talk touched on all sorts of things, from Greek sculpture to eco- nomic questions of the present dav. They were both Oxford men, and one of them hailed me heartily one day on the Wood- stock Road, weeks afterwards, as an old friend. But touching Bach's Mass, I must add one word more about the conductor, Dr. Villiers-Stanford. lie quite charmed me with his gentle, quiet ways, and the gen- uine enthusiasm, always well restrained, with which he conducted. There were no frantic grimaces, no pantomime illus- i7° Wo <$nglanto anb tJarfc. trations or suggestions for orchestra or chorus, but a grave, gentle dignity throughout all. Dr. Villiers is a handsome, tall fellow, with his years yet young upon him. I could not but admire him as he glowed with pleasure while the stupend- ous work unfolded itself beneath his hand and before his eyes, when choir and or- chestra gave splendid utterance to the great thoughts of Bach. I noticed that the orchestra had in it some peculiar instruments, among them a long trumpet of most slender, shining build, but with a voice like a mighty an- gel, pure, strong and sweet. The sym- phonies, too, had most vocal effects, so that it really seemed as if reeds and brasses gave forth human tones. The whole per- formance, continuing through two hours and a half of solid work, was most mag- nificent. I must add one word more yet, and that is to speak of the solemn effect of the Dead March in Saul, as played before the performance. I never had heard it with orchestra, and it grave the touching composition an added charm, increased by the standing attitude of the players and the whole audience in that Co ©nglantj ant *5ark. 171 vast St. James' Hall, in memory of the sad death of Loring Thomas. The next night found me in the Royal Alhert Hall, to hear Dvorak's Requiem. Let me warn my friends to be always on good time at that place. The spaces are so vast to get to your seat, that it almost seems a century before you reach it, espe- cially if the performance has already be- gun, as it had in my case. But what one loses in one way is gained in another. Those who were there in time could not have my experience of that vast hall as it burst upon my sight from the almost dizzy height where I had chosen my seat. I could look down on the great concourse of people, and the ordered ranks of the enormous choir. The ladies of the chorus were all dressed in white, one side having blue •-ashes from shoulder to waist; the other, red sashes in the same manner. This great mass of white touched with color, and enclosed by the great back- ground of the men in evening dress, all against the silver gray organ pipes, made quite a solemn and stately picture. It suggested to me a kind of Egyptian mag- nificence. The statuescjue, severe drapery 172 Co (Pnglanti anti Uacfc. of the singers carried out the effect. I could not see Barnaby distinctly, across the immense space, but was glad to see him even in this dim way. Fie handled the tremendous difficulties of the Requiem in a wonderful manner. That vast choir did its work splendidly; but I felt sure that our own Auditorium with the Apollo Club, and Tomlins, could produce it as well. The work itself is built upon a wailing theme of four notes, which sighs out its prayer in the first phrase, and then ever reiterates it, Dona eis requiem. The most noble effects are the reminiscences or reproductions of ancient Church song, recurring m solemn phrase. The text is illustrated throughout by the sound, and the orchestra is used as a vast tone pencil to fill in the background with lurid colors and awful forms. Verdi's Requiem I have heard, and Mozart's, the first the more dramatic, the second perhaps the more strictly melodic; but Dvorak's has a glowing magnificence all its own, sug- gesting the tremendous spaces of some vast cathedral, with kneeling multitudes and responsive choirs and priestly voices Eo ©nglanti anti ISacfc. 173 uttering ever in solemn tones: Requiem in eternam. Next morning I left London for a quiet visit with a dear friend, of which you will shortly hear. London, March 25, 1892. i74 li3acfc. 205 On the morning of the 13th my voy- age was over, and once more I was on American soil. It was indeed lovely to come on deck in the early morning and rind the steamer at anchor off Sandy Hook. The Fort, with its green velvet grassy embrasures, the trees in full foliage, and the ever- welcome stone spire of Xevesink church, made a pleasant picture to look upon after the grand monotony of the sea. The voyage, however, was not, for me, monotonous. It was a long holiday. In the early morning there was a glorious plunge in high proof, genuine salt water, then black coffee, a little rest, and a good brisk walk on deck, and then breakfast, with a good sea appetite. The hours never wearied. If I wanted utter loneli- ness, I could get out on the forward turtle back, and have before me the great circle of the sea, westward, and not a soul in sight. The huge steamer seemed to carry myself alone. If I wanted memories of the past, I could get back in equal solitude at the stern, and fancy the British Isles, where I spent so many pleasant months, beyond the waves which bounded my 206 fto (JPnglan) ant) 13ack. gaze to the eastward. If I wanted com- pany, I also had that. My opposites at the dinner-table were two most interesting men from Pittsburgh, who had been out in Roumania to prospect for petroleum. They were of Scotch- Irish extraction, the third generation from the old home, full of fun, vigor and American breeziness. Their Roumanian experiences were worth listening to. By my side was a good stout friend from gastronomic Baltimore. Beyond was a saturnine young English- man, from a Florida orange grove, gen- tlemanly and good-natured under a most alligator-like severity. Nor were other interests lacking. One could excite to gentle conversation the fair mummies on the deck, swathed in shawls and en- throned in their steamer chairs; or the smoking-room was at hand, where the incense of friendship was ever ablaze; or the steerage could be looked into, with all its nationalities and various types of hu- manity. As for reading or writing, that was out of the question; a cerebral excite- ment comes from life on the sea, which at once arouses to action and prevents any positive concentration. It provides the say that the Parthenon has not been surpassed need not seem a slur upon present achieve- ment. It simply states a fact. I also happened into the new Zion and St. Timothy — awkward name, hut really beautiful church. It is one of Ilalsey Wood's designs, and has the notes of that peculiar stateliness which so eminently per- tains to his structures. It is, inside and outside, brick, and, except for a little pew upholstery, has that honest, sturdy sever- ity of the best English work. The sex- ton told me with great unction how well they were off, having a good endowment, free pews, and an overflowing congrega- tion as liberal as one could wish. Like everything else in America, a free church must come under the general rule of suc- cess, or it will not succeed. It must have a good start, a large edifice, and every evidence of life and prosperity, and then the people will flock in. This St. George's, Stuyvesant Square 220 find in books of this class, and are in all ways very attractive. — .Standard, Chicago, Each volume is finely printed and bound; 16 mo, cloth, gilt tops, price per volume $1.00. In Half calf or Half morocco, per vol., 5275. Sold by all booksellers, or mailed on receipt of price, by A C. McCLURG& CO., Publishers, Chicago. LAUREL-CROWNED LETTERS. The Best Letters of Lord Chesterfield. Edited, with an Introduction, by Edward Gilpix Johnson. The Best Letters of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. Edited, with a Dedicatory Let- ter, by Octave Thanet. The Best Letters of Horace Walpole. Edited, with an Introduction, by Anna B. McMahan. The Best Letters of Madame de Sevigne. Edited, with an Introduction, by Edward Playfair Anderson. The Best Letters of Charles Lamb. Edited, with an Introduction, by Edward Gilpin Johnson. The Best Letters of Percy Bysshe Shelley. Edited, with an Introduction, by Shirley C. Hughson. The Best Letters of William Cowper. Edited, with an Introduction, by Anna B. McMahan. Amid the great flood of ephemera] literature that pours from the press, it is well to be recalled by such pub- lications as the "Laurel-Crowned Letters" to books that have won an abiding place in the classical literature of the world. — The Independent, New York. These Laurel-Crowned Volumes are little gems in their way, and just the books to pick up at odd times and at intervals of waiting.— Herald, Chicago. The typography is quite faultless. — Critic, New York. For this series the publishers are entitled to the gratitude of lovers of classical English.— School Journal, New York. Each volume is finely printed and bound; 16 mo, cloth, gilt tops, price per volume $1.00. In Half calf or Half morocco, per vol,, $2.75. Sold by all booksellers, or mailed on receipt of price, by A. C. McCLURG & CO., Publishers, Chicago. B IOGRAPHIES OF MUSICIANS. LIFE OF LISZT. With Portrait. LIFE OF HAYDN. With Portrait. LIFE OF MOZART. With Portrait. LIFE OF WAGNER. With Portrait, LIFE OF BEETHOVEN, With Portrait. From the German of Dr. Louis Nohl, In cloth, per volume ....,...$ 1.00 The same, in neat box. per set 5.00 In half calf, per set 12.50 Of the " Life of Liszt." t he Herald (Boston) says: " It Is written in great simplicity and perfect taste, and is wholly successful in all that it undertakes to portray." Of the "Life of Haydn," the Gazette (Boston) says : "No fuller history of Haydn's career, the society in whicli he moved, and of his personal life can be found than is given iu this work." Of the "Life of Mozart," the Standard says: "Mozart supplies a fascinating subject for biographical treatment. He lives in these pages somewhat as the world saw him, from bis marvellous boyhood till his untimely death." 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It is not a dry compendium of dates and facts, but a charmingly written history " — Christian Union, Neio York. "After a careful examination of its contents, we are able to conscientiously give it our heartiest commendation. We know no elementary history of France that can at all be com- pared with it." — Living Church. " A spirited and entertaining sketch of the French people and nation, — one that will seize and hold the attention of all bright boys and girls who have a chance to read it." — Sunday Afternoon, Springfield (Mass.). " We find its descriptions universally good, that it is admir- ably simple and direct in style, without waste of words or timidity of opinion. The book represents a great deal of patient labor and conscientious study." — Courant, Hartford (Conn.). "Miss Kirkland has composed her 'Short History of France ' in the way in which a history for young people ought to be written; that is, she has aimed to present a consecutive and agreeable story, from which the reader can not only learn the names of kings and the succession of events, but can also receive a vivid and permanent impression as to the characters, modes of life, and the spirit of different people." ■-The Nation, New York. Sold by all booksellers, or mailed, on receipt of price, by A. C. McCLURG & CO., Publishers, Cor. Wabash Ave. and Madison St., Chicago. 3