UC-NRLF USTRIES. LIBRARY I OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. Accession 98791 . Class WORKERS ON THEIR INDUSTRIES WORKERS ON THEIR INDUSTRIES EDITED, WITH AN INTRODUCTION, BY FRANK W. GALTON LONDON SWAN SONNENSCHEFN & Co., LTD. NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1896 GENERM- PREFACE THIS volume is the outcome of a course of free popular lectures on " Industries," delivered at South Place Institute on Sunday afternoons during the autumn and winter of 1893-4. The course was organised with a view to providing some service- able information regarding our leading industries, their origin, development, present position, and prospects. To this end invitations were sent to those who possessed practical knowledge of their respective trades, gained by working in them for their livelihood. A few exceptions were made to this rule in the case of lectures on more general topics connected with the labour movement, given by lecturers with special qualifications to speak on those subjects. The appeal for lecturers met with a warm response, and it was very gratifying to find that the various Trade Union secretaries and other officials, whose very arduous duties might have formed a ready excuse, showed them- selves not only willing but anxious to help in the work. The Institute Committee therefore beg leave 98791 vi Preface. to tender its hearty acknowledgments to all those who so generously rendered assistance. The Com- mittee were also fortunate in securing the services, as editor, of Mr. Frank W. Galton, whose intimate knowledge of the work of Trade Unions all over the kingdom makes him invaluable for such a post. The Committee trust that the wider public to whom the volume is now offered will receive from it some help towards a clearer appreciation of the workers' position in their struggles to solve the various labour problems of the day. W. SHEOWKING, Hon. Sec. SOUTH PLACE INSTITUTE, September, 1894. INTRODUCTION THE fourteen essays contained in this volume were originally delivered as a course of lectures on Industries, at South Place Institute, on Sunday afternoons during the winter of 1893-4. Ten of them, from which the volume derives its title, are the work of men and women who are, or until recently were, actually engaged in earning a livelihood at the trade here described by them. Most of them are prominent as leaders and advisers of their fellow-workers, and are thus qualified to speak about their trade, not only as practical workers and as Trade Unionists, but to some extent at any rate as the representa- tives of the feelings and aspirations of all those engaged in the industries they describe. Of the four other essays, three are upon more general subjects, all, however, relating to some aspect of current labour problems, and by writers well qualified to deal with the various questions. The fourth, that upon the Agri- cultural Labourer, is the work of an expert outsider to the trade. It was found impossible to secure the services of one actually engaged in that calling to speak upon it, and hence the necessity of departing from the general rule observed in the other lectures upon specific industries. A syllabus was prepared for the lecturers, giving a brief indication of the general lines upon which it was thought that the subjects might be most usefully ap- proached. Needless to say, however, no rigid adherence to its suggestions was expected or enforced, and it will therefore be found that while in some cases the writers have devoted much of their time and space to one side of their subject, in others the chief stress has been laid upon quite different aspects. In presenting these essays to a wider public than that afforded vii viii Introduction. by the lecture hall, it should perhaps be explained that their aim is not in any way to provide a detailed or technical description of the processes of the various trades with which they deal. Such descriptions may be readily found, by those interested, in any encyclopaedia, or the numerous technical hand-books upon trades and industries. What is here attempted is rather to give the reader an inside view of the trades as they appear to those who are employed in them. In this consists the most important difference between this volume and all previous ac- counts of industries that have so far been published ; and such value as this little book may possess will be found to consist chiefly in the fact that it is the first attempt to present to the public at first hand the workers' own view of the occupations in which they are engaged. Imperfect as the attempt undoubtedly is in many respects, it is yet hoped that it may be the means of conveying to its readers some impression of the manner in which the social and industrial conditions and effects, and the possible future improvements in and developments of his trade, are viewed by the intelligent and thoughtful workman. The number and variety of the subjects upon which the writers of these essays have touched render it impossible for me to do more than very briefly indicate the most important of them. The history of their trades, the condition of those employed in them at various periods, the effects of that great group of changes in the methods of production which are indicated by the Industrial Revolution, and the rise of Trade Unions among the workers, all receive more or less detailed notice. Turning to later days, the present condition of their trade, and the changes now taking place in it, with their probable effects upon the workers, are described, together with some instances of the attitude of the workmen and their Trade Unions towards such changes, while among the subjects most frequently discussed are the chief grievances existing in the trades at the present time, and the means suggested for their removal or relief. Sufficient has been said, however, to show that if the book does not prove in- teresting, it will not be for the lack of subjects of great interest Introduction. ix among its contents. I do not propose to dwell in minute detail upon all or any of these topics, but it may perhaps be convenient that I should quite briefly indicate what appears to me to be the chief points suggested by the writers, and endeavour to discover the main trend of their arguments upon those subjects. By far the most general source of complaint, and that which has been most frequently dwelt upon in these pages, appears to be the growing tendency of our present industrial system to pro- duce a steady divorce of the worker from anything like a complete knowledge of a trade, or even of a fairly large section of a trade. In other words it is the increasing sub-division of labour, and specialisation of the labourer. Of the evils which are thereby entailed upon the woj?ers this volume will be found to contain ample details, suggesting, indeed, that our economists have too lightly dismissed the consideration of this subject even in those cases where/they have troubled to give it more than a passing reference./'' It is possible that by adapting themselves and their Trade TJnion regulations to the changing circumstances in the trade/ occasioned by the introduction of this system, the wcmers may, in the future, find that it is a source of great ad- vantage to them, and that by obtaining a greater share of the -largely increased output, which is undoubtedly one of its results, they may be more than compensated for the added monotony of their toil and the other evils it has produced. But to do this successfully, they will require both time and a much more com- plete and effective Trade Union control over the conditions of their industry than is at present general among them. In the meantime it cannot be doubted that they often suffer real hard- ships from this cause. The trade, which they have spent many years of their lives to acquire, is suddenly rendered less valuable and more irksome to them by circumstances which it is beyond their power to control. The goods they make are produced more quickly and more cheaply by a new system to which they are too old to adapt themselves, and it is found possible to introduce boys or other subordinate labourers to perform parts of the work formerly done by the trained men. Nor do the evils this x Introduction. system involves stop short at the old workmen in the trade. The new-comers, learning but a small section of the craft, and that section often one which is as well done by boys at boys' wages as by men, find themselves, on arriving at man's estate, with no other means of gaining a livelihood than the already overflowing unskilled labour market, or the ranks of that great army of casual labourers whose existence is a reproach to our methods of industrial organisation. Nor do the workers find that the increased productivity thus achieved by the sacrifice of large numbers of both the old and the young men of their class is in any way beneficial to them. On the contrary, their positions are generally rendered much less secure, their earnings are often diminished, and the constant re- petition of one process, which their work under this system involves, renders it more monotonous and fatiguing. Thus the workers find, what their class has often found before during the transition periods in industrial organisation, that their standard of comfort is being steadily reduced at the same time, and by the very same process that their productivity is being largely increased. These are some of the evils of this system, which draw forth their complaints, and tend to arouse their violent opposition to it. There can be little doubt that in many cases it constitutes a source of real and legitimate grievance to the workers employed in the trade to which it is introduced. Another subject upon which the reader will find that the writers of these essays have much to say that is of interest is that of apprentices and apprenticeships to their various trades. Com- paratively few people to-day recognise how strongly the old mediaeval gild beliefs in the limitation of the number of apprentices or learners, and the strict regulation of their period of servitude, still survive in the minds of the modem workmen in our skilled trades. It is scarcely an exaggeration to say that hardly a skilled handicraft exists in which the men employed would not, if they had the power, restrict by some more or less stringent regulations the right of entry to their trade. The strength of the belief in this principle is, doubtless, partly due to Introduction. xi its antiquity, and is certainly also in part to be attributed to the vigour with which the theory, that wages in any trade depend entirely and exclusively upon the competition for work among the workers engaged in it, have been preached to them. The con- tinued repetition, even to this day, by amateur economists and others, of such doctrines as, " that if two men are running after one master, wages must be low, while if two masters are running after one man, wages must be high/' find their logical corollary in the workman's endeavour to limit the numbers in his trade, and so prevent the possibility of " two men running after one master." In addition to this, however, there can be no doubt that the anxiety to enforce a regulation of apprentices is largely com- plicated with the perfectly legitimate and reasonable desire of the workmen that new-comers into their trade shall be really skilled and selected men who have been thoroughly and efficiently taught their craft, and are capable of earning the full standard rate of wages of the trade. But it will be also noticed that in some cases, and those by no means in the least conservative trades, the belief in these old restrictions is being destroyed. It is beginning to be recognised that the theory of wages is not to be accurately summed up in the sentence I have quoted. By means of their organised and well-directed Trade Union control, the workers have already found, in some trades, that it is possible to shift the plane of competition among their members, from that of a mere struggle as to which of them shall get work at the lowest rate, into a struggle as to which of them can do the work best at a fairly high standard rate of wages. Thus it is found that all the advantages of competition in securing the employ- ment of the best workmen are retained, while all its disadvantages in the way of "sweating," and the demoralisation which inevitably accompanies low wages and bad working conditions, may be avoided. Under such circumstances the old limitations upon the right of entry into the trade become obsolete. They are no longer necessary to keep up wages, which can be as effectively accom- plished by other means, while, at the same time, the growing use of machinery, and the extension of the system of sub-division and xii Introduction. specialisation of labour, render a long period of apprenticeship unnecessary except in a very few highly skilled trades. In this direction the workers will no doubt find, as one of these writers has happily said, that the old must give place to the new, and that a restrictive policy may be safely allowed in most cases to fall into desuetude. It is, indeed, very encouraging to observe in how many cases this is being already recognised and its consequences frankly faced. The need of some proper and efficient method of teaching the youths in our skilled trades, which shall be calculated to replace the old apprenticeship system, is one of the subjects upon which much is said, and some useful suggestions are made in the pages of this volume. One other point remains upon which the authors of these essays display so remarkable a unanimity of opinion that I cannot refrain from drawing attention to it. The need for further and very considerable legislative protection and control over their in- dustries, and the conditions of their working lives, is one upon which every one of these authors is thoroughly agreed. Whether the writer be a representative of one of the old and highly skilled handicrafts, such as Mr. W. A. Steward, who writes of the work- men in the gold and silver trades, or of a comparatively modern and unskilled industry, such as Mr. W. Salmon, who writes of the corn-millers, the same growing feeling in favour of legislative remedies for the evils and difficulties of the trade and its workers will be met. It finds expression in demands for the prompt re- dress of a thousand grievances, some of them highly technical and confined to the one trade, while others are of a very general and far-reaching nature." From the raising of the age of coopers taken into the Royal Navy, to the enactment of a legal eight hours working day for all those employed in a trade ; from the distinctive marking of foreign manufactured plate, to the ab- sorption by the community of the whole of an industry, the cry for legislative redress of grievances, and state control of the machinery of production, ranges with an ever-increasing strength. This is, indeed, so well known and significant a feature of work- men and their Trade Unions, especially of late years, that little Introduction. xiii need be here said regarding it, beyond drawing the attention of the reader to the fact that it is by no means confined, as some would have us suppose, to the leaders of the new Labour Unions. The pages of this book will bear evidence that this demand for legislative interference is becoming as marked a feature in the programmes of the spokesmen of the old and highly skilled trades, as it is in those of the leaders of the new unskilled Labour Unions. I shall not dwell further upon the contents of the volume, but leave its readers to judge for themselves, and form their own opinions upon the various questions with which it deals. Nor should it be necessary for me to enlarge upon the importance of the inside view of the trades to which allusion has already been made. At a period, such as the present, when a rapidly in- creasing interest in every aspect of the problem presented by the existing relations between Labour and Capital is being aroused, the value attaching to a right apprehension of the views and opinions of the prominent and trusted men among the workers themselves cannot be over-estimated. The first instalment of one part of the materials for such an understanding is here presented. It is hoped that it may be followed at some future time by a further volume or volumes, containing the results of similar courses of lectures to be hereafter delivered. Certainly it cannot be doubted that a clear and carefully considered and revised statement of the wishes and aspirations of the workers employed in various important industries, given by those who are their trusted advisers, must prove of great service alike to those en- gaged in the trades concerned, and to the student and politician and the community at large. While fully conscious, therefore, of the many shortcomings of the book, it is yet hoped that it may prove of some service in helping inquirers to a better appreciation and understanding of the claims and aspirations of Labour. In conclusion, I have to express my very sincere thanks to the various writers who have contributed to the pages of this book, for the ready and courteous way in which they have listened to my suggestions, and responded to the calls I have made upon them ; to the Committee and Secretary of the South Place In- xiv Introduction. stitute for their ready advice and assistance when required ; and finally to my friend George Turner for the very considerable and valuable help he has generously given me in the necessarily somewhat difficult task of reading and preparing for the press the numerous essays, dealing with so many and so varied subjects, that are contained in this volume. FRANK W. GALTON. LONDON, S.W., October, 1894. CONTENTS PAGE PREFACE . . . . .*.-.." v INTRODUCTION . . . . vii I. THE NEED AND VALUE OF TECHNICAL EDUCATION. By C. T. Millis, M.I.Mech.E., Principal of the Education Department of the Borough Polytechnic Institute ...... i II. DRESSMAKERS AND TAILORESSES. By Frances Hicks, Secretary of the Womeris Trade Union Association 13 ^ III. WORKERS IN PRECIOUS METALS. By W. Augustus Steward, L.T.C., Secretary of the London Silver Trades Council . . . . .32 IV. SHIP-BUILDING. By W. C. Sleadman, L.C.C., L.T.C., Secretary of the London Bargebuilders 1 Trade Union 56 V. WOOD ENGRAVING. By Henry Crossfield . .67 VI. CORN-MILLING ANCIENT AND MODERN. By W. Salmon, President of the London District of the Millers' National Union . . . .81 VII. ENGINEERING. By J. Swift, Amalgamated Society of Engineers ....... 95 VIII. CASK-MAKING. By W. Crooks, L.C.C., London Philan- thropic Society of Coopers . . . 115 v IX. THE ART OF BOOKBINDING. By Frederick Rogers, President of the Vellum Binder 3 Trade Society . 127 xv xvi Contents. PAGE X. THE AGRICULTURAL LABOURER. By Frederick Verinder, General Secretary of the English Land Restoration League . . . . .153 XI. BRICKLAYERS. By Alderman H. R. Taylor, L.C.C., Secretary of the Central Committee of the Operative Bricklayers' Society . . . . .175 XII. POTTERY. By S. J. Thomas, Secretary of the Amalga- mated Society of Pottery Moulders and Finishers, London . . . . . , .186 XIII. THE NEED OF ORGANISATION AMONG WOMEN. By Emilie A. Holyoake, Secretary of the Womerts Trade Union League . . . .201 XIV. THE NEED OF LABOUR REPRESENTATION. By Alder- man Ben Tillett, L.C.C., General Secretary of the Docker J Union . . . . .212 INDEX . . . . . . .227 WORKERS ON THEIR INDUSTRIES. THE NEED AND VALUE OF TECHNICAL EDUCATION. By G. T. Millis, M.I.Mtch.E., Principal of the Education Department of the Borough Polytechnic Institute. IT has been thought that a paper upon this subject would make a very fitting introduction to a series of essays by working men and women upon their Trades -and Industries. Among the most im- portant questions with which the writers of this volume will deal, will be found many which are closely connected with the subject of Technical Education. The introduction of machinery, the numer- ous and minute sub-divisions of labour processes, and the decay of the system of apprenticeship to trades and handicrafts, all present some problems which are susceptible of treatment from the side of technical education. It is from this side, and in relation to such questions as these, that I propose to deal with my subject ; and though this may necessitate that I should go over some of the ground which will be dealt with more fully, and in more detail, by subsequent writers, the time so occupied will not, I think, be found to be wholly wasted. At the^outset it is necessary to define what is meant by tech- nical education. A broad definition and one I have frequently used, is, that technical education is the application of the principles of art and science to a particular trade or industry. If to this de- A Workers on their Industries. finition we add, that it should be combined with practical work in certain branches of some trades, we shall include more definitely that portion of the subject with which this paper will deal. For, it should be borne in mind that the education involved in the proper training of lawyers, doctors, and all those engaged in commercial pursuits, is as much technical education as that given to a mechanic or a builder's operative. It is not with that aspect of the question, however, important though it may be, that this paper will deal, but with the question of technical education as affecting the workmen engaged in the various trades and industries carried on in our great city or even our country. It will, I think, be readily admitted that the introduction of machinery, and the keen competition resulting therefrom, have been the primary causes of the growth of that sub-division of labour which has made some system of technical education a necessity to the workmen of any nation anxious to hold its own in the markets of the world. Sir Philip Magnus, in his address at the opening of the Finsbury Technical College in 1883 1 , said, in this connection, " If I were asked to say what has given rise to the necessity of technical education in its narrower significance as commonly understood, I should answer, the invention of the steam- engine. It is to the steam-engine, primarily, on a large scale, we owe the breaking up of the old apprenticeship system, and the necessity of some other kindof preparatory training. The result of the introduction of machinery and of its substitution for hand labour, has been a keen international competition for trade, which, among its other effects has reduced the margin of profits, and has consequently led to the necessary utilisation of so-called waste pro- ducts, and has stimulated scientific research as applied to the pro- cesses of manufacture." But I am well aware that the machinery and the sub-division of labour consequent upon its introduction are often advanced as arguments against the need for technical education. It is said that men need learn only one branch of a trade now, and, indeed, 1 Reprinted in "Industrial Education," by Sir Philip Magnus. [A volume of the Education Library.] Kegan Paul & Co., London, 1889. The Need and Value of Technical Education. 3 that it is an advantage so to do, since they gain great expertness at that branch, and their labour is thus more productive, and they are better able to earn a living at it./ It is further urged that at most only a few need have the wide knowledge of the several branches or processes of a trade necessary for taking part in the direction of the industry. There is no doubt some truth in this, if we close our eyes to the future of our industries, and have no higher aim for our workmen than to turn them into machines dependent upon one minute sub-division of a trade only, and with no prospect of improving their position./ But to me it is the strongest argument in favour of some training which shall help to make men better all-round workmen, by giving them at least, some knowledge of the processes preceding and following the par- ticular branch of the trade in which they are themselves engaged. By this means they may be enabled to more readily turn from one process to another if the changes in trade or fashion should render such a step necessary, and thus they will be more indepen- dent and self-reliant and better fitted to take their part in the struggle for existence. This view of the question is indeed well worthy the close atten- tion of the Trade Unions. These organisations have never been slow to recognise the necessity for maintaining the standard of excellence of workmanship among their members. They have seen, too, that wages cannot be diminished by such means, but must, on the contrary, tend to be increased thereby. Large sums of money, both public and private, are now being expended for the purposes of technical education, and the benefits to be derived from such expenditure must depend largely upon the amount of interest which the workmen themselves, through their organisations, take in the matter. Many of the Trade Societies, such as the bookbinders, painters, plumbers, bricklayers, litho- graphic artists, zinc workers and others have long shown their interest in this work in various ways. And it is pleasing to be able to record a growing disposition, at any rate among the metropolitan workmen and their associations, to avail themselves of the opportunities for technical education provided by the Workers on their Industries. energy of the Technical Education Board of the London County Council, and other bodies. But while it is highly important that workmen should take a keen interest in educational matters affecting their trades, it is no less important that employers should equally recognise their responsibilities. They are often among the very first to complain of any deficiencies on the part of their workpeople, while, as a rale, they do but very little to provide remedies for the evils of which they complain. Were they to set their faces with more determination against the execution of scamped and dishonest work, and to take more pains to see that the apprentices or learners in their shops and factories were properly taught their trades, some, at any rate, of the present causes of complaint would be effectually removed. It is sometimes urged that the workmen of this country have succeeded in holding their own against their competitors, and that there are still plenty of good workmen left. This may be true of the older men, but is it so of the younger ? The facilities for making experts in handicraft skill are being, except in a few special branches, rapidly reduced, so that, unless something is speedily done to supply fresh means, we may find it difficult to get good work done at all as the older generations of the workmen pass away. Already, indeed, this is being felt and complained of in some directions. Trades are now often sub-divided into many branches, and they are kept so separate from each other, that it is no uncommon thing to find young men who have no knowledge whatever of more than one branch. So minute are these divisions in many trades that a man is often little more than the hundredth part of a .tradesman ; and there are many calling themselves bootmakers, cabinetmakers, engineers, carpenters, etc., who are in reality only acquainted, often imperfectly, with one small section of the trade which they profess. Few, however, will deny that a workman, possessing a knowledge of two or three branches of his trade, even though he may actually earn his living at one of them only, will be a much more efficient crafts- man. He will, moreover, be better fitted to suggest or invent The Need and Value of Technical Education. improvements in it than would another who was without such knowledge. To remedy these defects in the present methods of training workmen in their crafts is the work of technical education. It must be given through special schools or colleges fitted up with well-equipped workshops and laboratories. But to be successful several things are absolutely necessary. First, no attempt must be made to teach a trade in the schools. The legitimate object of technical education is to improve the workman in the trade he is already following ; to render him capable of doing his work better and more quickly ; and to give him a general idea of the part played by his efforts in the pro- duction of the articles to which he contributes, perhaps, but a minute portion of the labour and skill. Where practical work in any industry is done in a school, the classes should be rigidly confined to students who are actually engaged in some branch of the trade thus taught. * For while it is obvious to all practical men that trades cannot be successfully taught in a school, yet much can be done to supplement the training of the workshop by affording facilities for practical work in those branches of a trade which young men get few opportunities of learning in their shops. I am, of course, well aware that this part of my subject is hedged about with many difficulties. The difficulty of deciding whether a person employed in one sub-division of a trade should be 'prac- tically taught to work in other sub-divisions or not, is itself very great. My own impression is that where the specialisation in a trade is very complete, and it has become customary for lads to serve periods of apprenticeship in the sub-divisions separately, the efforts of a technical school should be mainly devoted to perfecting them in their own particular branch. Thus, for a boot "clicker" teaching in the "lasting" or " finishing " of boots should be entirely a secondary matter; and similarly a silver- 1 The Technical Education Board of the London County Council makes this .one of the conditions which must be strictly observed by any school where practical work in any trade is taught, if any aid from the funds at the disposal of the Board is desired. Workers on their Industries. smith does not need to be primarily taught to make spoons and forks. In each of these cases the sub-divisions are recognised by the craftsmen themselves as forming entirely separate and distinct branches of the trade, and no surer method of arousing the opposition of the workmen could be found than in attempts at education which would tend to create (< overlaps " in their trades. On the other hand, where the divisions of a trade are not complete, the teaching to men engaged in any one of them need not be specially confined to that branch. There is no reason why an engraver should be a heraldic or an inscription " hand," and no harm could be done by teaching him both of those branches ; nor is it absolutely necessary that the silversmiths should be rigorously divided into " small " and " large " workers, or that the acute division between a fitter and a turner in an engineer's shop should be rigidly maintained. Nevertheless great care is necessary in dealing with this question, not only to prevent a rupture with the workmen, but to save the members of classes from wasting their time in learning branches of trades which will be of no use to them, and at which they will never be permitted to work. 1 Again, the instruction in such classes should be given by practical men, who, in addition to special ability in their own particular trade, should possess also a general knowledge of the scientific or artistic principles which are more or less intimately connected with their industry. But the teaching of the general 1 Another difficulty in this direction, but one too minute to discuss here, is that involved in the question of where the teaching of general principles of art and science ends and the teaching of a trade is begun. Thus, throughout his Report to the Special Committee (of the London County Council) on Technical Education, Mr. H. LI. Smith regards the teaching of repouss6 work and wood-carving as branches of general art training. On the other hand, to many these sections of art work are two distinct and legitimate crafts, and the teaching of them is the teaching of trades. All the valuable art training they give can be equally obtained from clay or wax modelling without the necessity of learning to manipulate difficult tools, and to work in a very stubborn and difficult medium such as copper or wood. The Need and Value of Technical Education. principles of science and art, and that of the practice of a trade, will both be better done if they are kept in different hands. To the intensely practical mind of the workman, used to working by rule of thumb, and judging everything rigorously by its practical results, no amount of knowledge of the theory of his trade will compensate for even the smallest errors in its practice. Of the theoretic portion of the teaching he is indeed not well qualified to judge, and small mistakes might be easily overlooked. But of the practice he is of all men the keenest critic, and many a promising trade class has had to be abandoned merely by reason of the imperfect practical acquaintance with the trade possessed by the teacher. The amount and nature of the practical work required will no doubt vary with almost every trade, and will be largely governed by the opportunities afforded for acquiring a knowledge of the different branches of the trade in the workshops. Thus the bricklayer requires practice in the brickcutting so much in demand nowadays ; the carpenter requires practice in staircasing ; the plumber in lead-working ; and the engineer in all the branches of work other than that in which he is specially engaged. In all these cases, and especially that of the engineer, the present system of large firms manufacturing only a few specialities does not allow apprentices or other learners a sufficient insight into the various branches of the trade. In every case where practical work is thus undertaken in a class, it should moreover be an illustration of theoretic principles taught in the class-room. There is considerable divergence of opinion as to whether such teaching should be given before or after entering the workshop. Some think it more effective as a preparation beforehand. Others, like myself, while acknowledging that some general preparation apart from any special reference to a trade is good, are firmly convinced that specialised instruction is more useful if given concurrently with attendance at the workshop. Greater advantage would, however, be derived if employers would permit their young workpeople to leave work earlier, say at five o'clock, upon one or two days a week in order to attend special classes Workers on their Industries. connected with their trade, so that they could come fresher and brighter, and be better able to profit by the instruction given. That some such stimulus is necessary for the overtired and grow- ing youth to attend trade classes after a day's hard work will not be seriously questioned by any one with experience in these matters. And here let me digress to refer to the marked influence already exerted on the training of plumbers by the Plumbers Company of London. By its scheme of registration, and by the bestowal of the freedom of the company upon those craftsmen who succeed in passing the honours examination of the City and Guilds of London Institute in plumbers' work, it has done much to raise the general level of the work executed. The Carpenters and the Painters Companies are also helping forward the work of educating those engaged in their respective branches of industry. Similar encouragement in other trades is all that is still required to give a wider impetus to the movement. Of the results of such technical training, there are, it appears to me, two main things to be hoped and worked for. First, that the exceptionally clever and talented boys working in any trade may have opportunities provided them for rising to the highest posi- tions in their trades or occupations. And second, that the whole mass of the workers may be levelled up in the estimation of the public, and the final remains of the old stigma attaching to the workman or " factory hand" successfully abolished. There is no real reason why the clerk should be considered of higher social standing because he wears a black coat, or why the workman should be despised because his work is rough and dirty. And it will be not the least of the results of a better technical training of our workmen if it leads to a better appreciation of the real dig- nity of their labour. In these days, workmen are beginning to seek for a fuller recognition of their needs by striving to secure positions on our local governing bodies, and even the highest posts in the administration of the State. Important though it may be that their claims in these directions should be recognised and that they themselves should possess such education as will qualify them to successfully fill such positions, it must be admitted that it is at The Need and Value of Technical Education. g least of equal, if not even of greater importance in an industrial country such as ours, to have thoroughly educated and qualified workmen in our workshops and factories. A general recognition of this necessity, both by the workers and the general public, will go far to remove the artificial distinctions so often created between hand and brain workers. In the time of Napoleon the First, it was a common saying that every French soldier carried a marshal's baton in his knapsack. Let us see to it, that our workmen may be provided with such means of acquiring education that every one of them may have the opportunity, if other circumstances are favourable, of becoming a captain of industry. So far I have devoted myself mainly to the consideration of technical education as applied to specific trades, or technology as it is called ; let us now turn for a few moments to its scientific and general aspects. It is very essential that no narrow and con- fused view should be taken of the training necessary for workmen. Mere expertness in handicraft skill is not a sufficient equipment for workmen in the higher branches of industry. To these men it is that we shall come in the future to look more and more for our skilled foremen, managers and even directors of industry. For these, some supplementary instruction is necessary. They will need a knowledge of the strength, nature and properties of the materials on which they have to work if they desire to keep abreast of the times. It is not sufficient to teach them merely the details of the processes of a trade without explaining something of the scientific principles upon which they are based. Their education, to be effective, must include a groundwork of drawing and of the ele- mentary principles of chemistry and physics. The efforts of the Science and Art Department, of County Councils and other bodies, should hence be directed towards the encouragement of sound elementary science and art education amongst working men. How little progress has yet been made in the provision of tech- nical education in England is well known. Although we are the first industrial nation in Europe, we have yet allowed almost every continental nation to far outstrip us in provision for such education. ro Workers on their Industries. The following figures in Table I. are taken from the report of the Technological Examinations of the City and Guilds of London Institute, and, as far as I am aware, they are the only statistics that give anything enabling one to form an idea of the progress of technical education in the United Kingdom. They show the number of attendances in about sixty subjects throughout the country. Table I. 1881 ... ... ... ... 2,500 1882 ... ... . ... 3,467 1883 ... ... ... ... 4,052 1884 ... ... ... ... 5,874 1885 ... ... ... ... 6,396 1886 ... ... ... ... 7,660 1887 8,613 1888 ... ... ... ... 10,404 1889 11,874 1890 ... ... ... ... 12,022 1891 ... ... ... ... 13,202 1892 ... ... ... ... 16,565 1893 ... 22,691 Insignificant as these figures are when we reflect upon the enormous mass of the artisans in our country, they show better results than do similar figures for London alone. The existing provision of technical education in London falls far below the standard of such towns as Birmingham and Manchester, not to mention Munich and other continental cities. London contains a larger artisan population than any other city, but its skilled trades are largely recruited from the provinces, whilst Londoners, from lack of proper training, go to swell the ranks of unskilled labour. The following figures Tables II. and III. show the number of attendants at certain classes for special trades in London. The Need and Value of Technical Education. 1 1 Table II. Showing attendances at London classes for the following trades in 1893 : Plumbers ... . ... 393 Carpenters ... ... ... 241 Bricklayers ... ... ... 106 Mechanical Engineering and Metal Trades 309 Table III. Table showing the number of persons employed in certain trades in London, with number of persons attending special classes in those trades, etc. Compiled from H. Llewellyn Smith's report to the Special Committee on Technical Education appointed by Lon- don County Council in 1892 : Number in Number of persons engaged in the following trades in Lon- attendance at special trade classes for each Number at- tending classes, but not workers don. of the follow- in the trade. ing trades. Carpentry and 2 ; 5 20 persons in Joinery 39,489 98 53 attendance at Bricklayers 23,591 51 4 classes bearing Plumbers 7,269 341 12 on the Build- Locksmiths 5,263 no class no class ing Trades. 2, 924 persons in attendance at Engineering r*1nQQpQ Tipnvino 1 and Metal Trades 54,061 266 93 ClctoOoO JJLclL 111 i^ i on the Engin- eering & Metal Trades. 12 Workers on their Industries. The total number of operatives in all the building trades in the county of London in 1891 was about 140,000, of whom 15,000 were under 20 ; yet the number of them who were attending classes on the vitally important subject of building construction and drawing was less than 800. About 30,000 men and boys are at work in London in the printing and lithographic industries ; only 140 of these were in 1891 getting any kind of technical instruction connected with their work. London has about 46,000 workers in the cabinet-making and upholstery trades, of whom 7,000 are under 20. The total number who were in 1891 receiving technical instruction in their craft (including designing and carving) was under 120. Only three out of the 10,000 persons employed in London's tanneries, and only, ten of its colour workers, were learning any branch of chemistry. And though it will be naturally admitted that many of our great industrial cities are far better off than this, and that much has been done in London during the last two years to increase the provision of schools and the number of attendants at them, there is still very great room for further improvement in both of these directions. We can only hope that the efforts now being made, and the interest aroused in this subject, may lead to more im- provements in, and a rapid extension of our system of technical education. DRESSMAKERS AND TAILORESSES. By Frances Hicks, Secretary of the Women's Trade Union Association. IT is impossible in the short space at my disposal for this essay to deal adequately with the history of clothing. I am afraid that if I were to go into that subject, taking note of all the variations of race and climate, and of changes in fashion and custom, it would require a volume to itself. The study would, however, be a very interesting one, especially when we remember how frequently the characteristics of dress are inseparable from the strong personali- ties of history. We cannot think of Queen Elizabeth without her "ruff" and "hooped" skirt, or of Joan of Arc except as arrayed for battle ; and future generations will probably associate John Barns with a straw hat. Before the growth of large towns and cities with the develop- ment of commerce in England, clothes were mainly home-spun and home-made. Dressmaking is one of the industries that formerly belonged to the home, just as much as baking and wash- ing, no matter what the occupation of the bread-winner might be. Baking day at home is now, in the towns, supplanted by the bake-houses ; laundry work is becoming more and more a work- shop or factory industry ; the handloom has long been replaced by the weaving shed; and, while there is still much home-made clothing, a very large industrial class has already arisen devoted to the making of costumes and clothing in our city workshops and factories. Dressmaking is technically known as a business, just as tailor- ing is styled a trade. I believe that in the indefinable grades of our society, a business is thought to be more ladylike than a 13 14 Workers on their Industries. trade, and, indeed, next door to a profession. It is unnecessary for me to recount the reasons by which girls, who were formerly kept at home to help mother until they left to become house- keeper and mother in some other home, have been compelled to go out into the world to earn their living the moment they are permitted to leave school. It is the most natural thing that a domestic occupation should be sought after by them, and we should expect to find, what is actually the case, that next to domestic servants, dressmakers form by far the largest class of women workers. Dressmaking is an occupation eminently suited to women. It does not require great physical strength, and while there is an infinite variety in the work which prevents it from ever becoming tedious, there is also plenty of scope for ideas, and free play for a woman's special stock of ability in working out details. And here I would suggest, that instead of constantly railing against the frequent changes of fashion, and the hideous extremes to which " stylish " women will go in the worship of that fickle goddess, our technical schools should encourage the art of dress designing. Classes should be held for the study of the human form with a view to clothing it suitably, natural form, health, and conven- ience being duly considered. Nature is constantly changing her beauties, and, by never showing us two examples of herself ex- actly alike, teaches us that variety is charming. It would be rather conceited for us to think that we could halt at any given point and say, "now we have reached the highest perfection of beauty and utility in dress, and we decree this to be the uniform for ever after." In dressmaking, as in most industries, there are many classes of workers, and I will endeavour now to describe the more important of them. The largest class consists of the daughters of the skilled mechanics in our towns. Many of these girls refuse to enter upon the life of the " house slavey," or general servant, which is the modern substitute for domestic service, and they equally wish to avoid mixing with factory girls, who are all reputed to be rough. But they must begin to earn something immediately Dressmakers and Tailor esses. 15 they leave school. In every suburb and working-class district there are to be found a number of women, who, having worked for a few years in some fashionable dressmaking establishment, and being now married or otherwise at home, have set up for them- selves in business as dressmakers, and give West End style to the neighbouring tradespeople, upper-class servants, and perhaps a few wealthier patrons. It requires very little capital to start a business of this kind, since the customers generally provide their own materials, and with moderate security a sewing-machine can be hired for Is. 6d. per week. The chief requirements are a tidy room, with fashion plates and magazines on a table, a mirror, and at the window long white curtains which admit a good light to match colours by, and yet screen the customer while garments are being- tried on. At first the workroom must be kitchen, living-room, and workroom combined, but with perseverance and a pleasant manner it is possible in a few years to get a connection sufficiently large to keep half a dozen assistants employed. Then a proper workroom is necessary. From such places as this it is that the large army of dressmakers is recruited. It is always found con- venient to have an apprentice to take work home, and to run errands for matching cotton, buttons, button-hole twist, skirt- braid and other miscellaneous necessaries. In the workroom an apprentice saves much of the constant getting up and sitting down to attend to the fire where an iron is heating, or to answer the door to the baker, or milkman, or street hawker, or a customer, just when a piece of work which requires nicely adjusting is being fixed. In between these duties the apprentice sits down to make pockets, pull out the unnecessary tacking, and "overcast," that is sew-over, the raw edges of seams not covered. When there is nothing else she can do she practices on the sewing- machine, or " button holes " on odd scraps of material. In time she is entrusted with parts of the commonest work, such as servants' cotton dresses or a shop girl's black dress, which has to be made cheaply. Such an apprentice usually gives six or twelve months service for nothing, and after that continues for another twelve months as an improver at wages of 2s. or 2s. 6d. per week. 1 6 Workers on their Industries. At the place where I was apprenticed the workroom was shop and kitchen combined. The family consisted of the dressmaker, her two sons who were at school during the day, and a lazy husband who spent most of his time looking for " suitable " work. They had also a gentleman lodger, whom we saw at about ten o'clock every morning when he came down to breakfast. A strong girl came daily to do the housework, attend to the lodger and cook the meals, and in the afternoon sit down to plain needlework. The dressmaker, one assistant, and I, sat all day at a table near the window. The sewing-machine stood beside the table, and the rest of the room served for general household purposes. Our hours were from eight in the morning to eight at night, with one hour off at midday for dinner, Tea was given to us at the work, table, and we did not cease working for that meal. It was my duty as apprentice to fold up and put away all material carefully, and to pick up the pins from the floor before leaving at night. This was especially annoying, as it made me always later than the others in getting away. But it was not thought worth while to be very punctual in leaving off at any time, and if there was anything nearly finished, it had usu- ally to be completed before it was put away. I remember that my father paid for a quarter's lessons at one of the evening classes for me, but out of the whole thirteen lessons I was only able to attend two through being detained in this way. An apprentice or improver is generally very glad to leave this work and try her hand in the West End. If she has made good use of her time, and applies for work at the right season, that is the end of March or the beginning of April, she can almost certainly get taken on as a season hand at one of the large dress- making firms in the neighbourhood of Oxford Street, starting with wages of about 8s. per week. It is here that the girl's eyes are opened to the ways of the world. The beautiful materials so lavishly used, of which she hardly knew the existence before, com- pletely dazzle her. The gossip that she hears of the private affairs of the grand customers, told by the knowing ones with all the hints and suggestions that are supposed to be understood, at first Dressmakers and Tailoresses. shocks the girl coming fresh into it, and then excites a morbid curiosity unless she is of sufficiently healthy temperament to throw off the impressions as soon as she leaves the workroom and enters into some other occupation or recreation. This is a time that tests a girl's character very severely. There is a greater amount of a kind of freedom in this life, for, except in the matter of wages, every one is on terms of perfect equality. Individuality is com- pletely lost sight of, and each one becomes part of a collective machine. It is soon discovered for what branch of the work a girl is most adapted. If she has the knack of doing small trimmings she becomes a sleeve hand, while if her fingers are light enough she arranges lace and soft silks so gracefully that they look as if they had fallen from the wand of a fairy. A costume with an im- mense amount of work in it, must, when all is finished, look as if hands had never touched it. The fitter of the costumes is the forewoman, and is seldom a woman who has risen from the ranks of the workroom. She -be- longs often to the class of showroom ladies who have paid a premium to walk about in the front shop exhibiting a good figure and making themselves agreeable. But a West End fitter must have in addition great skill and immeasurable patience. Her salary ranges from two to seven or even eight guineas a week, and raises her far above the level of ordinary dressmakers. The wages of these latter rarely reach one pound, the average for a skilled workwoman being 15s. or 16s. per week. It is, however, impossible to get an average for the year except from an em- ployer's wage-book, and this is not available to me. But even that would only show the wages of the most fortunate few who are kept at work all the year round. The majority of the workers are simply season hands, and if they begin work at the end of March they will perhaps be kept busy until August. Then, if the firm is large enough to have more than one workroom, each room is closed in turn for a few weeks and all the superfluous workers discharged. They may get a few more weeks' work from October to December, but this is not to be relied upon. What they do until the season begins 1 8 Workers on their Industries. again cannot be said. I know that some will be able to get enough needlework to do at home to keep themselves, but are obliged to let their rent run into arrears. Some get temporary work at the homes of people with families where they make up school dresses and children's clothes, and do the general repairs of a lady's wardrobe, being paid 2s. or 2s. 6d. a day and their meals. Others, like myself, live with a family who all share the pinch of slack times. But in addition to these, there are a large number unaccounted for, who, from pride or some other cause, are very reticent as to their mode of existence during the winter months. On account of these fluctuations in the West End trade many dressmakers prefer to remain at the class of work with which they commenced. People, outside the circle of " Society," require useful dresses to wear all the year round, and the work is there- fore much steadier. Bat unless a woman has had enough experi- ence to give her confidence in cutting up other people's materials, she must be content to earn a much lower wage as an assistant, the average being from 8s. to 10s. per week only. Even then there will also be a few weeks slack time. Nevertheless, I doubt very much whether this is not better than the higher but fluctu- ating wage of the West End, because these places can mostly be obtained near home, and the cost of riding money and meals is thereby saved. On the other hand, since very little or no capital at all is involved in the business, one is always liable to be thrown suddenly out of work through the business being given up or removed to another district for domestic or other reasons. One other class of dressmakers remains to be described. It consists chiefly of farmers' daughters who pay a premium to live in a fashionable dressmaker's house. It is, however, rapidly los- ing its class distinction. Twenty years ago as much as 100 would sometimes be paid to " Madame/' who, in return, provided board, lodging and pocket money of 2s. a week for two or three years, and was supposed also to teach the business thoroughly. In many West End houses these form the only permanent hands, six or eight pupils being quite enough to carry on the business Dressmakers and Tailoresses. 19 during slack times, a number of day workers being employed to supplement the pupils in the busy seasons. A premium of 20 is now quite sufficient to secure one of these apprenticeships. When the term of apprenticeship is ended, a situation as indoor hand is frequently offered and accepted, the salary ranging from <8 to 20 a year in addition to board and lodging. But this system is dying out, partly because room in the West End is too valuable to be thus used, and partly because there is no prospect for a woman who has passed her youth, unless she can command enough capital to set up as " Madame " herself. In this description I have endeavoured to generalise the chief features of the main groups into which the trade is divided, and to avoid all extremes and exceptions. The chief things necessary to a successful dressmaker may be summed up as considerable manual skill, and delicate fingers ; a good knowledge of fabrics and of what can be done with them ; the instinct of an artist to grasp the idea of a costume, and to work out the details without having every- thing set down in black and white ; and a quick perception of, and adaptability to, the frequent changes of style and fashion. So far I have dealt only with the hand dressmaker. I must x now turn to the machinist. This is a very large industry, and in some directions it supplants all varieties of hand needlework. Machinists who work with the best dressmakers are paid daily or weekly wages, which average from 16s. to 24s. per week. They must, however, be exact and quick workers and know their trade and machine well to earn these sums. A false stitch by the machine will irretrievably ruin some of the fine fabrics, and often one might as well be a foot out of the line as an eighth of an inch. The heavier machine work, such as cloth mantles and tailoring, when paid for by the day or week, brings in from 18s. to 30s. weekly. This com- paratively high wage attracts many to the work, but very few women can stand more than four or five years constant employment in this branch without their health being ruined. A great differ- ence is made if only half the time is spent at the machine and the other half at hand work, and this is often arranged. Apart from the best work, when garments are entirely, or almost 2O Workers on their Industries. entirely, made by the machine, piecework is the usual method of payment. There are many factories in London and elsewhere for this class of trade. In some of them steam-power is used to drive the machine, and affords a great advantage so far as the health of the worker is concerned. The earnings at this work vary consider- ably according to the strength of the woman working the machine, and the class of work done. I know one factory where there are two young women who can earn from 18s. to 25s. a week each, at the piecework prices they are paid for the work. But among thirty to forty others employed in the same shop, on similar work, and at the same piecework prices, tbpre is not one who can drive the machine fast enough to earn more than 16s. a week. It seems almost an inevitable law of this kind of work, that the coarsest and heaviest is the worst paid. I am told, that where corduroy trousers are machined and made, many of the women have to leave the work after a short time, stricken with paralysis or other nervous disorders, caused through driving the heavy machines fast enough to earn only 10s. or 12s. weekly. There are many machinists who prefer to work at home, because they are not then bound by the hours of a factory or workshop. Some factories also have a system of giving out garments by the dozen to a machinist, paying her the whole price of the work when finished. She thus becomes a sorb of sub-contractor, paying as many assistants as she can keep employed to prepare and finish off the work. Some of such sub-contractors can keep three or four women at work constantly. Work of this kind which is given out to be done, either direct from the employers or through such a sub-contractor, is almost always badly paid, and any woman who has to live by it must work long and irregular hours. All kinds of articles, from hand- kerchiefs and pinafores to greatcoats and horse-cloths, are cut and given out from East End and City warehouses, by employers who are glad to get their work done cheaply, and to save the cost and trouble of workrooms and foremen. Anyone who can work a machine can get this work, a pattern garment to copy from being given out with the first order, and none of the workers know the Dressmakers and Tailoresses. 21 cheapest price for which it is being done. I freely give the hint that for this work it is best to hire a machine, since, by the time it is paid for, it will be worn out. I have seen recently the work- books of women who live by this sort of work, in which cotton dresses were shown to have been made right out for 7cl. each, and boys' clothes, men's trousers, canvas working jackets and other articles were all paid for in proportion. One such book, which I reckoned up, showed a total of 1,097 garments for eleven months' work. It included boys' corduroy trousers at Ifd. each, knickerbockers at 3|d. each, women's stays at 4Jd. each, and drill jackets at 4|d. each, and in every case the work was finished throughout before it was delivered to the ware- house. The amount earned by the worker varied from Gs. to 16s. per week, and averaged 10s. per week over the whole eleven months. As this amount was more than others could earn on similar work from the same firm, the woman was compelled, when- ever she did more work than usual, to explain that she had had a friend working with her. The friend, however, was a pure inven- tion. The fact was that she had worked, whenever she could get enough to do, from six in the morning until ten at night, but she did not dare to say so, knowing from experience that were it known that she could do so much by herself the prices would be reduced immediately. Another work-book from the same ware- house, which I examined, showed an average of thirty-one garments made weekly for a year and a half, for the sum of 5s. Id. per week. During that period 3s. was the lowest amount earned in any one week, and 11s. 3d. the highest. It was principally contract work, much of it being for our asylums, infirmaries, and workhouses, and, of course, paid for by public funds. And here I may digress to say something about Government contract work in general. It follows the rule of other work in being made and paid for under various systems. Some of it is made under good conditions and is comparatively well paid for, but the greater part is taken out by contractors and badly paid for, and it would puzzle even the shrewdest inspector to discover where the whole of it is made. The very cheapest part is taken 22 Workers on their Industries. only by those hard up for work, and being so hard up they will accept any price, and resort to any trickery to retain the work. Large contractors keep the whip hand over their employees by having two systems of work in operation at once. A part is done in the contractor's own factory, and the rest is sub-contracted to J middlemen and distributed by them to outworkers. Any attempt to organise those employed in the factory is met at once with the retort that " if we combine to ask for better conditions the work will all be sent away and we shall be worse off than before. Let us alone and go and organise the outworkers so that they will not work for less than us." But this is quite impossible. The only condition upon which the outworkers are employed is that they shall not complain of the prices. If they are not content they need not take the work. And so this system acts as an effective weapon with which to underpay and generally ill-treat the unfor- tunate workpeople. So much has already been written and reported about tailoresses through the action of the " Sweating Committee," and the agita- tion against " home-work," that it is scarcely necessary to offer many details concerning their employment. Keady-made clothing is largely made by the machinists already described. The " be- spoke " work of the tailors' shops, which abound in all parts of London, is made under the sub-division of labour system, some- times in workshops in which the majority of the workers are wome^ and sometimes by tailors who take the work out, and employ women as " basters," "finishers," and " buttonholers," while they themselves press and overlook. As the quality and price of the work improves, so the proportion of men to women workers is steadily increased, until we find the very best work is made almost entirely by tailors in the West End shops. In this work tailoresses are only employed by outworkers, that is by journey- men tailors, who rent their own workshops or take work home to do. It is said that women cannot do the best work. But among the outworkers there are many women who can and do take any part of the work, and when it is returned to the shop even a skilled Dressmakers and Tailoresses. 23 foreman is unable to tell that it is not the work of a tailor. One tailoress, whom I knew, rented a workroom in the West End, and employed six or eight other women to make trousers. She taught her husband (who was* a tea warehouseman by trade) to press, and sent him to the shop to get the work out, knowing that it would not be given to her if she were to go and ask for it. Another tailoress has long been making, entirely by herself, the coats that are sup- posed to be the work of her father. The old man shows himself at the shop occasionally, but is too blind to do any sewing. Many similar instances could easily be quoted if they were necessary. The recognised wages of a tailoress are from 18s. to 30s. a week. At present women rarely take the responsibility for the work, and are, therefore, usually assistants working under the direction of the tailor who employs them. The apparently high wage is the price for the skill required, and for the very seasonable character of the work. The seasons which prevail in the dressmaking trade control also the tailoring, and the men usually discharge all their women assistants as soon as they see the likelihood of not having more work than they can do themselves. The women waistcoatmakers form a special class to themselves. They mostly live in the West End and take their work home to do, and they are paid by the same "log" or piecework list as are the men waistcoatmakers. 1 This " log " was drawn up and agreed to by a 1 The " log" is properly a piecework list with a time basis. It consists of a detailed statement of the time that every article made should take to do. For instance, 8^ hours is the ' ' starting " time for a waistcoat made in the plainest way. Then all the extras are detailed and so much time allowed for each. Thus in charging for a waistcoat the workman puts down say (1) starting time, 8 hours ; (2) basting to try on, 1 hr. ; (3) extra pocket, 1 hr. ; (4) watch-chain hole, \ hr. ; (5) bound or stitched edges, 1 hr. ; etc. : making a total of llf hrs. Then he charges his time wages for the total number of hours worked. The time allowed for every article is the same throughout all the West End shops. But difference in quality is allowed for by a different rate of wages per hour according as the shop is classed first, second, or third-class. The rate per hour is 7d. in first-class shops, 6^d. in second-class, and 6d. in third-class. Thus a waistcoat as above taking llf hrs. to make would be charged 6s. lOd. for making in a first-class shop ; 6s. 4d. in a second-class; and 5s. lO^d. in a third-class shop. 24 Workers on their Industries. joint committee of masters and men during the strike in 1891. The same " log " prevails throughout the whole of the West End, and men and women are both paid alike by it for waistcoatmaking. Any attempt by shops which have adopted this "log" to break away from it again is vigorously resisted by the Amalgamated Society of Tailors, which has succeeded in every instance in main- taining its prices since the strike. Before 1891 each shop had its own separate " log." A work-book I have by me shows the dif- ference in prices at one shop before and after the dispute. During the month of February 1891, 18 waistcoats were made for 4 19s. 8d. In November the same year the price paid for 18 similar waistcoats was 6 4s. 8d. Outworkers all find it necessary to employ someone to wait on their employers. They usually keep a young girl for this purpose. A foreman or cutter cuts out the work in the shops, and the shop- girl is sent to take it away to the outworker, together with a ticket of instructions. She has to take it back to the shop at the appointed hour, basted and ready for the customer to try on. When that is done she must fetch it away again to be finished, or for any necessary alterations. Sometimes the customer fails to keep his appointment, and the work then remains in the shop un- finished until he has been, perhaps a month or more later. The girls have to go to and from the shop and the workroom two or three times a day always, and more often if necessary. Thus, in reckoning up the wage-book of an outworker, the wages of a shop-girl must nearly always be deducted. I find that taking the average of a year a waistcoatmaker's book for a first-class shop shows the aver- age weekly earnings to have been 1 6s. From this about 6s. a week must be deducted for a shop-girl, leaving the net earnings about z ; modern conditions of trade of, 78 ; earnings of, 79 See also Engraving Engraving, On wood and copper, 67, 77 ; history of the art of, 68, 69 Etruscans, Metal-working of the, 34 P. Factory Acts, Improvements in, re- quired for gold and silver trades, 52 ; and women workers, 205 Factory system, in dressmaking trade, The, 16 ; advantages of the, 46, 107; introduction of the, 218 Fairbairn, T., 143 Farm labourers, Causes of decline in number of, 102 ; effect of machinery on, 102 See also Agriculture Flaxman, 41 Forewomen dressmakers, Wages of, 17 Foremen, Trade Union control of, in, 147 Free Labour Association of Brick- layers, 179 G. Garrards, Messrs., 4111 Gauntlett, Mr. W. B., 161, 163;? Germany, Wood engraving in, 72, 74 ; Trade Union of wood en- gravers in, 80 Gilds in England, 40, 217 ; of en- gravers, 72 Gilders' Trade Union, The Pottery, 194, 194;* Gladstone, Rt. Hon. W. E., 220, 220^ Glasgow, 97; Journeymen Coopers' Society at, in 1770, 121 ; early Bricklayers' Trade Union at, 177; large number of one room tene- ments at, 223 Goldsmiths, Gild or Company of, The London, 40, 49, 51 ; decay of the art of the, 41 ; team system in the trade of the, 42 ; sub- divisions of labour in the trade of the, 42, 43 ; Trade Unions of the, 43, 48, 4%n ; and technical education, 45, 48^, 49, 50 ; and women workers, 49 232 Index. Gold and silver trades, The, 51, 52, 52^, 54, 55 ; apprenticeship system in the, 44 ; home work in the, 52 ; and hall marks, 52, 52;?, 53 ; and politics, 51-54 " Good from Oven," System of, in pottery trades, 189, 189/2 Government work in clothingtrades, 20, 21 ; in shipbuilding trades, 6i;z ; in engineering trades, 106; in coopers' trade, 125 ; in book- binding trade, 148 Gray, Thomas, 99 Greece, Bookbinding in, 129 ; pot- tery in, 187 Greeks, Early metal work of the, 34, 35 ; engravings of the, 69 Greenock, 97 H. Hall - marks, London, 40 ; other towns, 52; and on foreign plate, 5 2 Hatherton, Lord, 193 Helgen, or saint pictures, 70 Hemel Hempstead, 160 Herrings, Export of, from the United Kingdom, 118 Hertfordshire County Council, Wages of labourers employed by the, 158 Hibbert and Platt, Messrs., 109 Hills, Mr. A. F., 6i Hinckes, Mr. H. T., M.P., 193 Hogarth, 41 Holbein, 40, 73 Hollow Ware Pressers' Trade Soci- ety, The, 194 Home workshops in the dressmak- ing and tailoring trades, The, 15, 16, 22, 26, 30 ; in the gold and silver trades, 52 Home workers in dressmaking and tailoring trade, Earnings of, 18 Hogg, Alexander, 143 Hosiery workers, Trade Union of women, 208 Housing of the agricultural labour- ers, 169-71 ; of the poor, 223 Hunt and Roskell, Messrs., 41;? Huxley, Right Hon. T. H., 224 I. Improvers in the dressmaking trade, Condition of the, 15 Industrial legislation, 1350-1550, Nature of the, 216 Industrial revolution, The, and its effects, 218, 219 Ireland, Early metal-working in, 37 Iron and steel trades, Improvements in the, 103 workers, Long hours of toil of, 223 Ironfounders, Friendly Society of, The, io8;z J. James, Sir Henry, M.P., 180 Jarrow-on-Tyne, 59 Jerry building, 179 Journeymen Steam Engine and Machinemakers' and Millwrights' Friendly Society, The, 10972 Killingworth, 98 Knight, Mr. Robert, 102 Index. 233 L. Labour party, Work for a, 226 Lancashire weavers, Wages of the, 204 ; Amalgamated Association of Card and Blowing-Room Ope- ratives in, 207 Landlords, Tyranny of, in Agricul- tural districts, 170, 173 ; great power in the State of the, 217, 217/2 Land tenure, Growth of present system of, in England, 214 Laudeuil, Morel, 41 Laundresses,The London, Evil con- ditions of work of, 209 ; agitation for legislation of, 209, 210 Laurence, Mr. W., M.P., 180 Leather- workers, The London, and technical education, 12 Leeds, H2n Legislation, Need of improved, for home workers, 29, 51 ; for dress- makers and tailoresses, 21 ; for gold and silver trades, 51 ; for millers, 93; for engineering trades, 113, 114; for coopers, 125; for bookbinders, 152; for agricultural labourers, 173, 174; for pottery trades, 197 ; for the workers generally, 222, 223, 226 Leicester, 208 Lemiere, Paul, 41 Lilbourne, William, 143 Linton, W. J., 77 Lithographic Artists' Trade So- ciety, The, and technical educa- tion, 3 and printing trades, The Lon- don, and technical education, 12 Liverpool, Great builders' strike at, 1833, 177 Locksmiths, The London, and technical education, 1 1 Locomotive engine, History of the, 98 London County Council, Technical Education Board of the, 4, 572, 51 ; and Trade Union rate of wages in the building trades, 181 and technical education, 10-12 Trades Council, The, 46, 178, 194, 212; Trades Combination Defence Committee, 1838, 4572; Hall-mark in, 52; decay of ship- building in, 57, 58, 60, 6in, 64; docks, extension of the, 60, 61; Coopers, early Trade Unions of the, 1 1 6, 121 ; Philanthropic So- ciety of Coopers, 12 1 ; Bricklayers in, 178 ; School Board and the Bricklayers' Trade Unions, 180; Trade Unions and the pottery strikes of 1836, 190/2 ; Pottery Moulders' and Finishers' Trade Union in, 194 ; Laundresses, condition of the, 209, 210; paupers in, 223 ; unemployed in, 224 M. Machinery, Effects of, 2; opposition of workmen to, 100, 101; effects of on artisans, 101; in the boiler- making trade, 102; in the Cleve- land iron mines, 102; in the wood-cutting trade, 102; in the docks, 102; in the Manchester Ship Canal, 103; in the house 234 Index. painting trade, 104; in the leather trades, 104; possible advantages of, 113; in the coopers' trade, 123; in the pottery trades, 191 Machinists in dressmaking and tailoring trades, Conditions of the, 19, 23; wages of the, 20, 21 Manchester and technical educa- tion, 10; and Ship Canal, 103; strike in the engineering trades at, 1851, 109; great strike of builders at, 1833, 1 77 Manorial system in England, 213, 214; break up of the, 215 Maidstone, 176; guardians, wages paid to workmen of the, 158 Marshall, Professor A., 104, 105 Master Builders' Association, The, 181 Matthews, Charles, 144 Matthews, Right Hon. H., 209 Merchandise Marks Act, and the gold and silver trades, 53 Metal and engineering trades, London, The, and technical edu- cation, ii workers in Egypt, 33; in As- syria, 33; in Israel, 34, in Babylon, 34; in Greece, 34, 3$; in Rome, 36 working of the Etruscans, 34; of the Saxons, 36; in Byzantium; 36; in early Britain, 37-9, in Ireland, 37 Merthyr Tydvil, 98 Mexico, Engraving in, 68; brick- laying in, 175 Mill, John Stuart, 105 Millers, Generous Friendly Society of, at Newcastle, 1813, gon ; National Union of the, 1853, 90, 91/2 ; National Union, the, 91, 917* ; and foreign competition, 92 ; and socialism, 93, 94 ; Trade Unionism among the, 94 See also Corn-Millers Millwrights, 103; work of the, 105; Miners, Trade Unions of, and politics, 212; Federation of Great Britain, The, 213;?; Durham As- sociation of, the, 213;?; Northum- berland Association of, the, 213;? Minton, 200 Munich and technical education, 10 Mycenae, Discoveries at, 35 N. National Order of Potters, The, 194 Union of Teachers, The, 213 Navy, Cost of the Royal, 61; and of the French, 62 Norfolk, Tied cottages in, 170 North Staffordshire Potteries, De- scription of the, 195 Trades Council, The, 194 Northern Counties Amalgamated Association of Weavers, 207 Northumberland Miners' Associa- tion, The, 213;? Nottingham, 208 Nuremberg, 71, 74 O. O'Connor, Mr. A., M.P., 180 One-room dwellings, number of, in the United Kingdom, 223 Index. 235 Operative Bricklayers' Society, The, 181 Ovenmen's Trade Society, The, 194; strict trade regulations of the, 197, 198 Overlaps in trades and technical education, 5, 6, 6;z ; - in the shipbuilding- trades, 63 Overtime, Bad system of payment for, in corn-milling-, 89; Amalga- mated Society of Engineers, the, and, 1 10 Owen, Robert, 177, 187 Oxford, The tailoring trade at, 205 P. Painters' Company of London, The, and technical education, 8 - Trade Unions, The, and tech- nical education, 3 Palmer, Messrs., 59 Parliament, Labour Members of, 2I37/, 221 Paterson, Emma, 209 Pauperism, Extent of, in London, 223 ; cost of, in the United King- dom, 223 Payne, Roger, 136-8 Pembroke, Earl of, 172 Penruddocke, Mr., 172 Peterhead, Strike of coopers at, 119 Philanthropic Society of Coopers, The, 121 Piecework in the dressmaking and tailoring trades, 20, 21, 23 ; in the gold and silver trades, 45, 45 ; in the shipbuilding trades, 59 ; in the engineering trades, 109, 1 10, non', in the coopers' trade, 120, 12072 ; in the book- binding trade, 127 ; in the brick- laying trade, 181, i8i ; in the pottery trades, 189, 198 Plumbers' Company of London, The, and technical education, 8 London and technical educa- tion, 7, ii ; Trade Society and technical education, 3 Potteries, Riots in 1842, The, 191 Potters, History of the, 187-9, l %9 n 5 and sub-division of labour, 188 ; co-operative workshop of the, 189; strikes of the, 190, 190;?, 191-3 ; journals published by the, 191, 19172 ; farm colony in America of the, 191, 192, 19272 ; Board of Arbitration of the, 192, 193 ; Trade Unions among the, 194, 200 ; "Rot," cause of the, 196, methods of payment of the, 189, 198 ; future of the trade of the, 200 Pottersville, 192, 192/2 Pottery, History of the art of, 186-8 ; extent of the Trade in, 195, 199 ; dangers of the trades, 197 Poverty, Causes of, 222, 225 ; remedy for, 225 Printers' and Transferrers' Trade Union, The, 194 the case of the, 136 Printing and Lithographic trades, London, and technical education, 12 Q. Queen Caroline and the London Sailmakers' Trade Union, 65 ; 236 Index. and the London Bricklayers 3 Trade Union, 176 R. Railway Rates and the London shipbuilding trade, 60 ; and the London corn-milling trade 92, 93 Servants, Overwork of the, 223 Railways, Comparative cost of con- struction of in the United King- dom and abroad, 60 Ravensworth, Lord, 98 Red Vans of the English Land Re- storation League, Work of the, V 55 eiOJ Reform Acts, Agitation for the, 219, 219;? ; effects of the, 220 Reynolds, Michael, 90;* Rocket, The, 99 Rogers, J. E. Thorold, M.P., 166, 1 80. Rome, Metal-working in, 35, 36 ; engraving in, 69 ; corn-milling in, 82; caskmaking in, 116; bookbinding in, 129 Royal Navy, Cost of the, 61 Royston, Cambs, 158 S. Sailmakers, London Trade Union of the, 65 Sailors and Firemen, National Amalgamated Union of, The, 212, 213^ Saxons, Metal- work of the, 36 Schliemann, Dr. H., 34 Scotland, Number of one room tenements in, 223 Sheffield Trades, The, and the potters' strike of 1836, 190/2 Shipbuilding in the United King- dom, 56-8, 65 ; in London, 56, 5X 57, 58, 60, 6in ; in the North of England, 59 ; relative cost of, in France and England, 62 ; trades, overlaps in the, 63 ; sub- division of labour in the, 61-3; future of the, 66 Ship-fitters, London Society of, 65 Shipwrights, Associated Society of, The, 64 Provident Union of the Port of London, The, 64, 6472 London and North of England, 56, 56/2 ; wages of the, 58, 59 ; method of payment of the, 59 ; and apprentices, 62, 64 ; and sub- division of labour, 62 ; work of the, 63, 64 ; number of, employed in London, 64 Shop assistants, Overwork of the, 224 Silver Plate Polishers' Society, The, 46, 47 Plate Workers' Trade Society, The, 46 Small Workers' Society, The, 47 Spoon and Fork Makers' and Finishers' Society, 1838, The, 45/2 Spoon and Fork Makers' Society, The, 47 - Spoon and Fork Finishers' Society, The, 47 Trades Council, The, 46 ; functions of, 54 Trades, Deterioration of the, 41 ; sub-division of labour in the, 41-43 ; Committee of the United Branches of the, 1838, 4572 ; Trade Unions inthe, 46; unhealthy work in the, 47 ; and legislation, 46-8 Silversmiths, Sub-division of the trade of, 5, 6, 42 ; Trade Unions Index. 237 of the, and women workers, 49 Smith, Adam, 105 Smith, Mr. H. LI., 6/2 Smith, Mr. Roach, 37 Socialism and Trade Unions, 54, 93, 94, 151, 152,219,219;*, 226 Spar and Block Makers, London Society of, 65 Staffordshire, Trades Council, The North, 194 See also Potters Stanton, St. Bernard, 172 Stationers' Company, The, 132 Steam Boat, Account of the, 98 Engine Makers' Society, The, 108/2, 109 and Machine Makers' and Millwrights' Friendly Society, The Journeymen, 109/2 power, History of, 95-7 Stephenson, George, 98, 99 Stocking Frame, Invention of the, 100 Stothard, 41 Straw plait industry in Bedford- shire, The, 1 60 Strike in the engineering trade at Manchester, 1851, 109; of coopers in London, 1825, 121 ; of book- binders in London, 1786, 142, 143, in 1892, 150 ; of builders through- out the United Kingdom, 1833, 177 ; and lock-out of the London building trades, 1859, 178 ; of the Staffordshire potters, 1836, 190, in 1866, 192 ; in 1881, 193 Sub-contract, System of, in the dressmaking and tailoring trades, 20 ; in the building trades, 179 Sub-division of labour, 2, 4, 104, . 218 ; and technical education, 2, 3, 5 ; in the boot and shoe trades, 5 ; in the gold and silver trades, 5, 6, 42, 43 ; in the engineering trades, 6, 105, 106, 113; in en- graving, 6, 68 j in the shipbuild- ing trades, 56/2, 62, 63 ; in the coopers' trade, 124 ; in the book- binding trade, 148, 148;?, 149 ; in the bricklaying trade, 176, 182; in the pottery trades, 188, 195 Sweating, in the tailoring trade, 22 ; proposals to prevent, 30 ; system and the agricultural labourers, 159 T. Tailors, Amalgamated Society of, The, 24 ; log, or piecework list of the, 23, 23/2 Tailoresses, Wages of, 23, 2372, 24 ; outworking, conditions of the, 24, 25, 27 ; need of improved legis- lation for the, 25, 29 ; and Trade Unionism, 30 See also Dressmakers. Tailoring trade, evil of, in Oxford, The, 205 ; and generally, 207 ; in agricultural districts, 160 Taylor, Mr. Whately, C., 84 Team system in the goldsmiths' trade, The, 43 Technical education, I, 5, 7, 8 ; in the United Kingdom, 9, 10 ; in London, 10-12; at Birming- ham, 10, 50 ; at Manchester, 10; at Munich, 10 ; and technology, 2, 9 ; and carpenters, 7 ; and plumbers, 7, 8; and bricklayers, 7, 185 ; and engineers, 7, 105, 106; and dressmakers and tailoresses, 14; and gold and silver trades, 5, 6, 45, 48/2, 49, 5; and corn- millers, 88 ; and coopers, 123 ; and bookbinders, 14872; and Trade Unions, 3; and employers, 4; and 238 Index. overlaps in trades, 5, 6, 6n\ and apprentices, 7, 49, 4972 ; and sub- divisions of labour, 2, 3, 5 Board of the London County Council, The, 4, 572, 51 Technology, 2, 9 Tenants by custom, Evictions of the, 215, 21572 Tenniel, Sir John, 75 Terra-cotta moulders, 199 Textile trades, Machinery in the, 101 -- See also Weavers Thames Ironworks and Shipbuild- ing Company, The, 6172 Throwers', Turners', and Handlers' Trade Society, The, 194 Trades Council, The Silver, 46, 54; the London, 46, 178, 194, 212 ; the North Staffordshire, 194 --- councils and women workers, The, 202 ; work of the, 226 -- Union Congress, The, 178, 212, 212;?, 226; and its Parlia- mentary Committee, 226 Trade Unions, Rise of, 219, in England in 1836, 190/2; technical education, 3 ; women workers, 49, 202, 207, 210; and politics, 54, 94, 151, 152, 219, 219;? and and 205, 93, 226; work of the, in the future, 226 -- See also under various trades as Bookbinders, Bricklayers, etc. Trade Union clause in public con- tracts, 150, 15072, 1 80 Tramway servants, Overwork of the, 223 Trevethick, Richard, 98, 99 Tring, 160 Truck Acts and agricultural labourers, The, 163, 16372, 173; and women workers, 205 U. Unemployed, The, in agricultural districts, 157; in London, 224; in the United Kingdom, 224 United Kingdom, Technical educa- tion in the, 9, 12 ; assay offices in the, 5272 ; shipbuilding in the, 57 ; some exports from the, 118 ; decline of agriculture in the, 153, 154; one-room and overcrowded dwellings in the, 223 ; unem- ployed in the, 224 See also England United Society of Boilermakers and Iron Shipbuilders, The, 65, 102 Upholsterers and cabinetmakers, London, The, and technical edu- cation, 12 V. Vellum-binders, work of the, 128; Trade Union of the, 144; its his- tory, 144-7; an d apprentices, 145; and Government contracts, 150, 15072 Viani, 41 Village chanties, Abuse of, 172 Villages, Abuses of local govern- ment in the, 171 W. Waistcoatmakers, women, Wages and conditions of the, 23 Wallace, Dr. A. R,, 153 Walsall, Coopers at, 118 Index. 239 Water-mills, 82, 100 Watherston, Messrs., 41/2 Watt, James, 95, 97, 98 Weavers, Lancashire, 204 Northern Counties Amalga- mated Association of, The, 207 West Riding of Yorkshire Power Loom Association of, The, 207 Wedgwood, 200 West Riding of Yorkshire Power Loom Weavers' Association, The, 207 Westminster Abbey, Account of the decoration of, 39, 39;; Williams, Sir L., 103 Wiltshire, Tied cottages in, 170 Wind-mills, 83, 84, 100 Women workers and education, 28, 31 ; and technical education, 49 ; Trade Unionism among the, 28, 202, 203, 205, 207, 210, 211 ; evil conditions of the, 25, 26, 201, 206; wages of, 19-21, 23, 24, 203, 204 ; hours of labour of, 206, 224 ; and Factory Acts, 205, 208 ; fines upon, 205 ; married, 27, 30 See also Dressmakers and Tailoresses Women's Trade Union League, The, 205, 207-209 Women factory inspectors, 208, 209 Wood blocks, Use of, for engraving upon, 78 Engraving, Methods of, 68, 70, 76 ; in Germany, 70, 72, 74 ; in England, 72 ; future of the art of, 80 Engravers, International So- ciety of, The, 79 ; Trade Unions of, in Germany, 80 ; in Paris, 80 Wood, William, 143, 144 Woolwich, 106 Worcester, Pottery, 187 Y. Yorkshire Order of Potters, The, 194 Yorkshire, Power Loom Weavers' Association of the West Riding of, The, 207 Z. Zainer, Gunter, 72 Zinc Workers' Trade Union, London, The, and technical education, 3 PRINTED BY COWAN AND CO. LIMITED, 1'ERTH. RETURN CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT 202 Main Library LOAN PERIOD 1 HOME USE 2 3 4 5 6 Rerwwete and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date DUE AS STAMPED BELOW nil 9 Q flflp 1 J w L. * *"' ^^^^r^ F AUTO. Di^C. A 1 IP O A liftfi MUb /S U I- w FEB 1 8 10 i UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DD6, 60m, 1/83 BERKELEY, CA 94720 $ !9428