:.f^^«tp 
 
 7 
 
 AND ITS ENVIRONS 
 
 LUCY ANDERf; 
 
d 
 
 ^ 
 
 BERKELEY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSin Of 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
LI 
 
COPENHAGEN 
 
 AND ITS ENVIRONS. 
 
 A GUIDE FOR TRAVELLERS. 
 
 BY 
 
 LUCY^NDERSEN, 
 
 AUTHOR OF ''A HOLIDAY TOUR IN ITALY: 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 WALTER SCOTT, 24 WARWICK LANE, 
 
 PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 1888. 
 
 A 
 
** Go, little book, God send thee good passage, 
 And specially let tins be thy prayer 
 Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
 Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, 
 Thee to correct in any part or all." 
 
 — Chaucer. 
 
 SIFT 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 Several enjoyable visits to the Danish Capital 
 suggested the desirability of rendering its many 
 attractions more accessible to my fellow-countrymen 
 than hitherto. 
 
 Having experienced much delay and difficulty in 
 the pleasurable work of sight-seeing, from a scant 
 knowledge of the Danish language, I endeavoured 
 to remove a like obstacle from the path of English- 
 speaking tourists. 
 
 My object in undertaking this venture was two- 
 fold. In the first instance I wished to place in the 
 hands of English visitors to Copenhagen a useful 
 Guide in their own language, as a ready means of 
 viewing the numerous and priceless art collections, 
 historic gatherings, and localities of interest, in which 
 it is so rich. My second hope was to give a little 
 friendly aid to **our Church in Copenhagen," by 
 
 378 
 
iv PREFACE. 
 
 devoting any surplus which might arise from the 
 publication to its services. The first edition of my 
 Guide having been so successfully disposed of, owing 
 to the kind forbearance of the public, encouraged the 
 idea of bringing out a second enlarged and improved 
 edition, which I can only trust may meet with the 
 same indulgence. If so, my labour will be amply 
 rewarded. 
 
 L. A. 
 
 Newcastle-on-Tyne. 
 
THE EXHIBITION. 
 
 For the benefit of tourists who may be visiting 
 Copenhagen during the Exhibition, I give the 
 following information : 
 
 Entrances to the Exhibition. 
 
 I. The now-existing Tivoli entrance. 
 II. Corner of Vesterbrogade and Halmtorvet. 
 III. Ny Yestergade Extension. 
 
 I. and II. will open at 9 A.M., and close 
 when Tivoli closes. 
 
 III. will open 10 a.m. and close at 7 p.m. 
 
 The Grounds will be open to the public from 
 
 9 A.M. till Tivoli closes. 
 
 The Buildings will be open to the public from 
 
 10 A.M. till dusk, but not later than 8 p.m. For 
 the last hour before closing time, no persons will 
 be admitted to the buildings. From this rule are 
 excepted the buildings for Gardening, the Fisheries, 
 the Military Exhibits, and Dynamos, which will all 
 be lighted by electricity, and remain open to the 
 public during the evening. The Dairy is open 
 9-11 A.M., and 2-6 p.m. 
 
TEE EXHIBITION, 
 
 Charges for Admission. 
 I. From 9 a.m. till 7 p.m. 
 
 Week days : adults, 1 krone ; children under 1 2 
 years, 50 ore. 
 
 Sundays and other holidays : adults, 75 ore ; 
 children, 50 ore. 
 
 Extra Days. 
 
 Whit-Sunday and Whit-Monday: adults, 1 krone; 
 children, 50 ore. 
 
 Inauguration Day : till 3 p.m., 10 kroner and 5 
 kroner ; after 3 p.m., 2 kroner and 1 krone. 
 
 May 29th (Royal Cattle Show) : 2 kroner and 1 
 krone. 
 
 Judging Day : till 3 p.m., 3 kroner and 1 krone 50 
 ore; after 3 p.m., 2 kroner and 1 krone. 
 
 There are some more exceptions of less importance. 
 
 II. After 7 p.m., 50 ore and 25 ore. 
 
 Season Tickets. 
 
 1. Gentleman, 20 kroner. 2. Lady, 16 kroner. 
 Valid at all times except on the opening day till 
 3 p.m 
 
COPENHAGEN, 
 
 OR (KJOBENHAVN), 
 
 MEANING "PORT OF TRADE." 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 *' Oh ! there never was yet, and there never will be, 
 A shrine for my love like the broad blue sea." 
 
 Kronborg Castle. 
 
 HE tourist who approaches the city of Copen- 
 hagen from the Kattegat cannot help being 
 favourably impressed by the picturesque 
 coast. At the entrance to the Sound we pass the 
 
6 KRONBORG. 
 
 grand old castle of Kronborg. What a world of 
 historic memories cluster round the old pile ! Here 
 was confined Caroline Matilda of England, after 
 the court revolution which caused her downfall, 
 till her brother, George III., sent a squadron to 
 convey her to Germany. " Our unfortunate princess 
 did not long survive such humiliation." It is on 
 the Flag-battery (Flagbatteriet), where you see the 
 Dannebrog waving, that Shakespeare, in his "Hamlet,'* 
 makes the ghost of the Danish king to wander past 
 the guards ; while deep in the vaults below rests the 
 guardian spirit of Denmark, Holger Danske, wrapt 
 in slumber, awaiting the hour when the Fatherland 
 shall stand in the sorest need of his strong arm, and 
 there is none other help. Then comes he forth to 
 victory. 
 
 Southey's Life of Nelson and Campbell's stirring 
 lyric, "The Battle of the Baltic," are all recalled as 
 we pass this narrow strait. 
 
 ** Oh ! the Palace was a noble place 
 In its palmy days of strength and grace," 
 
 and it is very beautiful yet, retaining still its 
 formidable appearance, although no longer required 
 to do duty in controlling both shores of these northern 
 Straits of Hercules, the tribute now paid being in 
 part honorary, every vessel having only to display her 
 colours, greeting, as it were, the descendant of the 
 Yikings, when passing this their capital of the sea. 
 Kronborg, if no longer formidable, is still worthy of 
 all admiration as the most perfect specimen of 
 renaissance castellated architecture remaining in 
 
MARITIME DIVISION. 7 
 
 Scandinavia ; and it is possible that better cannon 
 would again give it command over the waters of the 
 Sound, while the interior, with casemates capable of 
 holding 1000 men, is well adapted for purposes of 
 defence. 
 
 From this point onward we are in smooth water, 
 and have leisure to admire the beautiful panorama 
 before us. To the left extends the purple band of 
 the Swedish coast, which, as we near Copenhagen, 
 gives place to the dark-red batteries ; to the right, the 
 winding shore of Sealand discloses an endless succes- 
 sion of long bays, whence quaint littlo villages, 
 embosomed in foliage, peep at the passing steamer 
 like shy children ; and in the midst lies the blue 
 dimpling Oresund in all its beauty, touched by the 
 glancing light with a thousand sparkles. The last 
 place to note before reaching Copenhagen is the 
 Custom-House (Toldbod), and the ** Long Line " 
 (Lange Linie), a neck of land between the citadel 
 and the sea, which, with the Green Place (Gron- 
 ningen), make beautiful promenades. 
 
 The maritime division of Copenhagen is quite 
 apart, constructed on small islets connected by 
 bridges, and goes by the name Nyholm. Here the 
 naval works are being carried on with an activity 
 that shows how thoroughly the Government shares in 
 the general desire of the nation to bring its fleet up 
 to the requirements of the times. The resources of 
 the country in the present century have never been 
 such as to allow of the complete restoration of the 
 ships and stores taken by England in 1807, when, 
 after three days' bombardment of the city, the fleet 
 
8 MARITIME DIVISION. 
 
 was captured, together with all the materials that 
 were stored on Nyholm for the building and 
 repairing of ships. The reason for this robbery was 
 to prevent Napoleon using it against ourselves. 
 
 On the small islet Ankeroen, that is connected 
 with Nyholm, and, properly, is a part of it, is the 
 new dockyard for the repair of ships. It is built of 
 granite, has a breadth in the sluice of 58 feet, a 
 length of 260 feet, and is fitted out to receive ships 
 of a draught of 20 feet. The water is pumped in and 
 out by the help of a steam-engine. The English 
 civil engineer, Alfred Giles, gave the drawings, and 
 in part conducted the work. It was used first on 
 18th August 1858. A special permission from the 
 Ministry of the Navy is necessary for seeing these 
 establishments. 
 
 There is not much, however, to interest the 
 ordinary tourist at Nyholm. I once went, but it was 
 to see a man-of-war launched. It was a quaint- 
 looking craft, closed in with a top that much 
 resembled the roof of a Strasbourg house. To the 
 launch came the King and Queen, accompanied by 
 their sons, the Crown Prince and the King of Greece, 
 ■besides other members of the Royal Family; they 
 were rowed over by twelve sailors dressed in white, 
 with an admiral steering. A right royal salute was 
 given as the party landed. The King must have 
 adopted Bernadotte's motto, "The people's love is my 
 reward," for if ever monarch owned that noblest 
 gem that adorns a crown, the love of his subjects, it 
 is Christian IX., father of our much-beloved Princess 
 of Wains. 
 
DANISH LOYALTY. 9 
 
 *' God save brave Christian's daughter ! 
 
 Our noble Prince's pride ; 
 The Danish flag and England's 
 
 Henceforth float side by side. 
 To our beloved Princess 
 
 We look with hope and joy ; 
 May sorrow never darken, 
 
 Nor fate those hopes destroy. 
 Then let the pray'r re-echo 
 
 Among our hills and dales, 
 ' God bless fair Alexandra ! ' 
 
 ' God bless the Prince of Wales ! ' " 
 
 Talking of the Danish King reminds me of that 
 beautiful German ballad wherein is related a dis- 
 pute between four princes, as to which of them was 
 the richest. One boasted of the treasures embosomed 
 in his hills ; another of his golden grain and sparkling 
 wines ; while Ludwig of Bavaria claimed the honour 
 on account of the flourishing towns and rich cloisters 
 which his land contained ; but to the bearded Lord 
 of Wurtemberg fell the palm. He said, " My towns 
 are small, and silver-bearing hills I have none ; yet 
 I possess a jewel unrivalled, for, without misgiving, 
 I can lay my head fearlessly in every subject's lap." 
 (Ich mein Haupt kann kuehnlich legen jedem 
 Unterthan in den Schooss.) 
 
 The real origin of the tale goes : That on one occasion 
 Peter the Great of Russia said to the Danish King, 
 whilst standing on the top of the Round Tower 
 (Runde Taarn) : *' I can order any of my subjects 
 to thrust himself down from this height, and my 
 bidding would be fulfilled ! Couldst thou do that, 
 my royal brother 1" " No ! " replied the Danish 
 
10 COPENHAGEN, 
 
 King; "but," he added, with a proud smile, "I can 
 lay myself to sleep in the lap of any of my subjects, 
 Couldst thou do that, my imperial brother 1 '^ 
 
 Once inside the Merchant City, you are ready to 
 forgive her level uniformity and utter want of 
 elevation, and to give yourself up entirely to the 
 quaint, old-world atmosphere which surrounds you ; 
 for Copenhagen is, beyond question, one of the most 
 interesting towns for spending a profitable and enjoy- 
 able holiday in, and, knowing this, makes me anxious 
 to give the results of my own ramblings, that, by 
 doing so, I may help others to enjoy themselves still 
 more. Yet it is not without some fear and trepidation 
 that I present this, my second edition, to the public, 
 though they have been indeed forbearing with all my 
 shortcomings in the past ; and I should like to take 
 this opportunity of thanking them, and the numerous 
 friends who have helped me in gathering information, 
 and ask them still to have patience with me, for I am 
 pretty sure to be unlucky enough to go on making 
 blunders, however carefully I may tread. 
 
 With this guide will be issued a short vocabulary 
 of words for the benefit of those who have not time 
 or inclination to acquire even a superficial acquaint- 
 ance with the Danish language. Other handbooks 
 of a similar description may claim to be more 
 voluminous ; this, however, I think a doubtful advan- 
 tage. "Little and good" is the maxim by which I 
 have been guided, feeling that the traveller is likely 
 to be perplexed, rather than helped, by a superabund- 
 ance of matter. 
 
 The climate of Denmark generally is favourably 
 
DANISH MANUFACTORIES, 11 
 
 influenced by the action of the Gulf Stream, and the 
 temperature of Copenhagen is nearly the same as that 
 of Edinburgh — viz., 47° Fahr. Its greater mean 
 summer heat of 64"* Fahr. gives it advantages over 
 that of the Scottish capital in regard to the better 
 ripening of cereals and other vegetable produce ; 
 and the atmosphere is ever so much clearer than 
 with us, owing, I suppose, to the want of our coal 
 area — the ** bottled sunshine '* of past ages, to which 
 England owes her wealth and the diminishing of her 
 corn-fields. 
 
 " Thinner wanes the rural village, 
 
 Smokier lies the fallow plain ; 
 Shrinks the cornfield's pleasant tillage, 
 
 Fades the orchard's rich domain." 
 
 From England is imported nearly all the coal and 
 iron used in the kingdom, so that the Danish 
 manufactories are rather behind hand. The most 
 noted is the Copenhagen china, which, from the time 
 of its establishment^ a hundred years ago, till recently, 
 was a Crown monopoly. It is made of clay called 
 kaoline, found at Bornholm. The same island 
 supplies an admirable lime for cement, as well as 
 a hard, compact limestone, capable of taking a good 
 polish, and known as Bornholm marble. Another 
 Danish specality is gloves, of which those known as 
 ** Randers," which are made of sheeps' and lambs'- 
 skin, tanned with willow bark, have acquired a 
 European reputation for durability and cheapness. 
 
 The Regent Street of Copenhagen is Ostergade; it 
 loses its otherwise imposing effect for want of breadth. 
 The shops are, as in Edinburgh, in several rows, the 
 
12 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 first popping up from under the pavement, reminding 
 one forcibly of Jack-in-the-box. But the wealth of 
 their contents, displayed in artistic designing of 
 porcelain, dainty jewellery, and filigree work, goes far 
 in showing how worthily Denmark is renowned for 
 such wares — ** a charming plethora of things dear to 
 the feminine heart." Here I often gaze till the 
 temptation has become too strong, and I draw out 
 ray purse, only to realise the truth of Shakespeare's 
 immortal aphorism — " Who steals my purse steals 
 trash," for, alas, there is nothing in it. So, instead, I 
 go ** lionising," as that is a cheap amusement — not 
 one long fork-out, like sight-seeing in London. 
 
 The hotels are numerous, but I will only mention a 
 few of the best and largest, that T can truthfully 
 assure the traveller are *^ replete with every comfort," 
 and attended by a host of waiters, who are all that 
 waiters should be ; and how much that is, perhaps 
 only those sorely-tried functionaries know. The 
 charges are, besides, moderate. Perhaps the hotel- 
 keepers don't travel any great distance, or, at least, 
 we will hope not, for if once they took a tour from 
 Denmark or Norway to our English or Scotch pleasure 
 resorts, they would feel, as Lord Clive says he did 
 when he remembered the unlimited amount of " loot" 
 which he might have taken, but did not, in the 
 treasure stores of the Indian princes, and *' be 
 astonished at their own moderation," and returning 
 to their native soil, vow henceforth to cast modesty 
 and moderation to the winds. 
 
HOTELS, 13 
 
 *^* The traveller whose time is valuable, or to whom a sea- 
 journey is objectionable, should go from Victoria Station 
 (London) to Queensborough, from whence the North Sea can be 
 crossed in about ten hours to Flushing ; then via Hamburg 
 and Kiel, or Hamburg and Fredericia, to Copenhagen — a journey 
 which occupies about thirty-six hours either way. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 Hotel d' Angleterre — In the Kongens Nytorv. 
 A cafe and restaurant. 
 
 Hotel King of Denmark (Kongen of Danmark) 
 — In Holmens Canal, No. 15. It is very con- 
 veniently and nicely situated, near to the landing- 
 place of the steamers and the Kongens Nytorv. 
 Tastefully fitted up; lifts and baths. Much frequented 
 by English. Not expensive. 
 
 Hotel Phonix — Bredgade, No. 37. Is near to the 
 quay, and has caf6 and restaurant; it is newly 
 fitted up. 
 
 Hotel Dagmar — On the Tester Boulevard not 
 very large, but handsomely furnished. Dinners at 
 fixed price. Large restaurant and cafe. Beer tunnel 
 "worth seeing.'^ 
 
 Hotel National — Yesterbro Passage, opposite 
 Tivoli, near the tramway, and close to the Central 
 Station. Entrance in the Jernbanegade, No. 9. 
 Restaurant, cafe, and reading-room, grand long tunnel, 
 with buffet and beer-house. 
 
 Hotel l'Europe — Holberggade, No. 2. 
 
 Hotel Union — St. Annaplads, No. 22, near the 
 quay and tramway. 
 
 Confectioner {Conditor) — and coff*ee-houses. Cup 
 of coffee, 20 ore ; tea, the same ; chocolate, 35 ore ; 
 
16 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 Baths. — E;oman Baths, 10 Tordenskjoldsgade, 
 behind the Theatre E/oyal (Roman bath, 1 kr. 80 ; hot 
 bath, 75 ore). Byssensten, near Langebro — all kinds 
 of hot and cold, also Roman steam-baths. (Sea-baths 
 near Langebro (20 ore per bath ; towel, 8 ore), also at 
 the " Strandvej " and Klampenborg, etc. 
 
 Tramways (Danish Sporveje, the carriage Sporvogn), 
 — Central Station in Kongens Nytorv, from which issue 
 the following lines (prices 5, 10, 20 ore, etc.) : — (1) 
 Westward by Holmens Canal and Storrestroede, 
 Slotspladsen, past Tivoli, Vesterbrogade, and either 
 by Frederiksberg Allee or by Pilealleen, to the 
 entrance of Frederiksberg Have. Driving, half-an- 
 hour. (2) Westward by the same streets to the 
 railway station. (3) Southward to Christianshavn, 
 into Amager Port. (4) Northward by Bredgade, 
 Osterbro and Strandvejen to Charlottenlund and 
 Klampenborg. (5) To the north-west by Gothersgade 
 and Norrebrogade Norrebros Runddel, while several 
 lines connect the suburbs with one another. 
 
INDEX 
 
 OF NOTEWORTHY PLACES IN RAMBLES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Academy of Arts, in Charlottenborg, on the Kongens 
 
 Nytorv. (Free.) Ramlle 1. . . . .23 
 
 Alban's, St., Church (English), near the Esplanade and 
 
 Custom House. Ramble 1. . . . .32 
 
 Alexander Newsky Church (Russian), on the 
 
 Bredgade. Ramble 1. . . . .39 
 
 Alleenberg, out by Frederiksberg Allee, and near the 
 
 Zoological Gardens. Ramble 6. . . . 137 
 
 Amalienborg, winter residence of the Court, sometimes 
 called Frederiksplads (Frederik's Square). Ramble 1. 30 
 
 Anna, St., Plads (Place). Ramble 1. . . .29 
 
 Antiquity Collection, near Charlottenborg. Entrance 
 from Nyhavn. Tuesdays, 12 to 2. Ramble 1. , 23 
 
 Armoury, behind Christiansborg, on the Slotsholmen. 
 Open to the public from the 1st May till the 1st 
 October every Wednesday from 1 to 3 o'clock. (Free. ) 
 Ramble 5. . . . . . .106 
 
 Assistentskirkegaarden. Out by the Botanical 
 Garden, where the children's fairy tale writer, 
 Andersen, is buried. Take the Norrebro tram from 
 Kongens Nytorv ; it passes the entrance. Ramble 6. 141 
 
 Botanical Gardens, on the Boulevard and continua- 
 tion of Gothersgade. Open from 1st April to 31st 
 October daily from 1 till sunset. (Free.) Ramble 2, 4] 
 
 Bbahe (Tycho) Statue, near the Observatory and 
 
 Rosenborg Castle. Ramble 2. . . . .43 
 
 2 
 
18 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cafe, National, opposite Tivoli. Ramble 6, . .127 
 
 Casino Theatre, in the Amaligade. RamUe 1. . 29 
 
 Catholic (Roman) Church, Bredgade, 64. Ramble 1. . 38 
 Christiansborg Palace (burnt down). Ramble 5. . 104 
 
 Church of Our Lady (contains some of Thorvaldsen's 
 
 masterpieces). Open daily for a gratuity. Ramble B. 78' 
 
 Citadel, Frederikshavn, near the Custom House and 
 
 Long Line. Ramble 1. . . . .34 
 
 Circus, on the Jernbanegade. Ramble 6. . . 136 
 
 Conservatory (Music), in Bredgade. Ramble 1. . 38 
 
 Danish People's Museum. Open daily from 11 to 6. 
 
 Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. . , . 129 
 
 Ethnographical Museum ; in the Prince's Palace. Open 
 
 four or five times a week, from 10 to 12 or 12 to 2. 
 
 (Free.) /S'ee daily papers. Ramble i. . . .96 
 
 Ewald's Monument, near the Round Tower. Ramble 3. 73 
 
 Exchange, nearly opposite the unfortunate Palace 
 
 Christiansborg. Change time every day 2.30-3.30 
 
 o'clock ; admission money after 2 o'clock, 20 ore. 
 
 Ramble 4. . . . . . .87 
 
 Frue Plads (Place of Our Lady), where stands the Church 
 
 of Our Lady. Ramble 3. . . . .78 
 
 Frederiksberg Castle and Park (near the Zoological 
 
 Gardens). Ramble 6. . . . . .138 
 
 Frederik's Church (German). Ramble 4. .. . 88 
 
 Glyptotheca, by Carlsburg, and near the Zool. Gardens. 
 
 Every Sunday from 1-5. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. 140 
 Holy Ghost Church (Helligaands-Kirken), on the 
 
 Amagertorv. Ramble 3. . . . .82 
 
 Holmens' Church, on the Holmens' Canal, where rest 
 
 Denmark's two great sea heroes, Juel and Vessel. 
 
 Ramble 4. . . . . . .84 
 
 Kommune Hospital. Near the Botanical Gardens. 
 
 Ramble 2, . . . . . .42 
 
INDEX. 19 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Long Line (Lange Linie). The lovely promenade near the 
 
 Custom House. Ramble 1. . . . .34 
 
 Land and Navy Churchyard. Ramble 1. . .37 
 
 Liberty Monument, on the Yester Bro, near Tivoli. 
 Ramble e. . . . . . .134 
 
 Marble Church (Marmorkirken), on the Bredgade 
 
 (Broad Street). Ramble 1. . . . 38 
 
 Medal and Coin Collection, in the Palace of the 
 Prince (Prinsens Palais), araounting to more than 
 30,000 numbers. Open on Mondays from 12 till 2 
 (May 1 -September 30). See remembrance list in 
 newspapers. (Free.) Ramble 4. . . . 103 
 
 JMoltke Picture Gallery, corner of Bredgade and 
 Dronningens Tvergade. Open from 1st April till 1st 
 November. Free, Saturdays and Sundays. Catalogue, 
 70 ore. ^S'ee newspapers for days and hours. Ramble 1, 30 
 
 Museum, Old Northern (Nordiske Oldsager), in 
 the Prince's Palace, contains the Antiquities of 
 Scandinavia. Open almost every other day, for two 
 hours. (/S'ee newspapers. ) Rainble 4. . . 89 
 
 Museum, Royal Collection of Prints, in the Princes' Palace. 
 Open every Tuesday and Friday, from 11 to 2. (Free.) 
 Rambled. . . . . . .89 
 
 ITational Bank, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 .84 
 
 Niels Juel's Statue, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 . 83 
 
 •Oehlenschlaeger's Statue, in front of the Theatre 
 
 Royal. Ramble 1. . . . . .27 
 
 Panoptikon (Scandinavian). The Wax- Works, on the 
 Vesterbrogade, 3. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. 
 Ramble 6 . . . . . . 130 
 
 Panorama, in the Jernbanegade. Open from 9 o'clock 
 till sunset. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. 
 Ramble 6. . . . . . .135 
 
 Post Office, corner of the Yalkendorfsgade and Store 
 Kjobmagergade. Letters to England and America, 
 20 ore. Ramble 3. . . , . 72 
 
18 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Cafe, National, opposite Tivoli. BamUe 6, . .127 
 
 Casino Theatre, in the Amaligade. RamUe 1. . 29 
 
 Catholic (Roman) Church, Bredgade, 64. RamUe 1. . 38 
 Christiansborg Palace (burnt down). Ramble 5. . 104 
 
 Church of Our Lady (contains some of Thorvaldsen's 
 
 masterpieces). Open daily for a gratuity. Ramble Z. 78' 
 
 Citadel, Frederikshavn, near the Custom House and 
 
 Long Line. Ramble 1. . . . .34 
 
 Circus, on the Jernbanegade. Ramble 6. . . 136 
 
 Conservatory (Music), in Bredgade. Ramble 1. . 38 
 
 Danish People's Museum. Open daily from 11 to 6. 
 
 Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble Q, . . . 129 
 
 Ethnographical Museum ; in the Prince's Palace. Open 
 four or five times a week, from 10 to 12 or 12 to 2, 
 (Free.) /S'ee daily papers. Ramble L . . .96 
 
 Ewald's Monument, near the Round Tower. Ramble 3. 73 
 
 Exchange, nearly opposite the unfortunate Palace 
 
 Christiansborg. Change time every day 2.30-3.30 
 
 o'clock ; admission money after 2 o'clock, 20 ore. 
 
 Ramble 4. . . . . . .87 
 
 Fbue Plads (Place of Our Lady), where stands the Church 
 
 of Our Lady. Ramble 3. . . . .78 
 
 Frederiksberg Castle and Park (near the Zoological 
 
 Gardens). Ramble 6. . . . . .138 
 
 Frederik's Church (German). Ramble 4. . . 88 
 
 Glyptotheca, by Carlsburg, and near the Zool. Gardens. 
 
 Every Sunday from 1-5. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. 140 
 Holy Ghost Church (Helligaands-Kirken), on the 
 
 Amagertorv. Ramble 3. . . . .82 
 
 HoLMENs' Church, on the Holmens' Canal, where rest 
 
 Denmark's two great sea heroes, Juel and Vessel. 
 
 Ramble 4. . . . . . .84 
 
 KoMMUNE Hospital. Near the Botanical Gardens. 
 
 Ramble 2. . . . . . .42 
 
INDEX, 19 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Long Line (Lange Linie). The lovely promenade near the 
 
 Custom House. Ramble 1. . . . .34 
 
 Land and Navy Churchyard. Ramble 1. . .37 
 
 Liberty Monument, on the Tester Bro, near Tivoli. 
 Ramble Q. . . . . . .134 
 
 Marble Church (Marmorkirken), on the Bredgade 
 
 (Broad Street). Ramble 1. . . . 38 
 
 Medal and Coin Collection, in the Palace of the 
 Prince (Prinsens Palais), amounting to more than 
 30,000 numbers. Open on Mondays from 12 till 2 
 (May 1 -September 30). See remembrance list in 
 newspapers. (Free.) Ramble 4. . . . 103 
 
 J\Ioltke Picture Gallery, corner of Bredgade and 
 Dronningens Tvergade. Open from 1st April till 1st 
 November. Free, Saturdays and Sundays. Catalogue, 
 70 ore. /S'ee newspapers for days and hours. Ramble!, 30 
 
 Museum, Old Northern (Nordiske Oldsager), in 
 the Prince's Palace, contains the Antiquities of 
 Scandinavia. Open almost every other day, for two 
 hours. {See newspapers. ) Ramble 4. . .89 
 
 Museum, Royal Collection of Prints, in the Princes' Palace. 
 Open every Tuesday and Friday, from 11 to 2. (Free.) 
 Rambled. . . . . . .89 
 
 ITational Bank, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 .84 
 
 Niels Juel's Statue, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 . 83 
 
 •Oehlenschlaeger's Statue, in front of the Theatre 
 
 Royal. Ramble 1, . . . . .27 
 
 Panoptikon (Scandinavian). The Wax- Works, on the 
 Vesterbrogade, 3. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. 
 Ramble 6 . . . . . . 130 
 
 Panorama, in the Jernbanegade. Open from 9 o'clock 
 till sunset. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. 
 Ramble 6. . . . . . .135 
 
 Tost Office, corner of the Valkendorfsgade and Store 
 Kjobmagergade. Letters to England and America, 
 20 ore. Ramble 3. . . . , 72 
 
20 INDEX, 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Prince's Palace, behind the Christiansborg Slot. It con- 
 tains four museums, all free. Bamhle 4. . .89 
 
 KosENBORG Castle (Slot), on the Boulevard, contains 
 Chronological Collection of the Danish Kings. Shown 
 daily. Tickets, obtainable from the Inspector, near 
 the Palace, at 6 kr. for up to 12 persons. Ramble 2. . 45 
 
 Bound Tower (Runde Taarn). On the Store Kjobmager- 
 gade, open daily from 12 till 1 or 2. Sometimes 
 gratis, other times 35 ore per person. RamUe 3. . 73 
 
 Royal Shooting Gallery, out past Tivoli. Bamhle 6. 136 
 Saviour's (Our) Church (Yor Frelsers Kirke), on 
 
 Christianshavn. The Tower, or Taarn, shown on 
 
 payment of 2 kroners for a party of twelve persons. 
 
 Ramble 4. . . . . . .88 
 
 Statue of Frederik Y., on the Frederiks Plads, 
 
 beside Amalienborg Palaces. Ramble 1. . .31 
 
 Stephen's Church, on the Norrebrogade, past the 
 
 Assistentskirkegaard. Ramble 6. . . . 142 
 
 Synagogue, in the Krystalgade. Ramble 3. . .74 
 
 Thorvaldsen's Museum. Open daily from 11 for a few 
 hours. Often gratis, sometimes on payment of 50 
 ore {see newspapers). Catalogue, 45 ore. Ramble 5. . 109 
 Theatre Royal, on the Kongens Nytorv. Ramble 1. .27 
 Tivoli, on Yesterbro. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. .127 
 
 Trinity Church (Trinitatis Kirke), where rest the poets 
 
 Ewald and Wessel. Ramble 3. ". . .73 
 
 University, on the Frueplads, near the Church of Our 
 
 Lady. Ramble 3. . . . • .75 
 
 Yariety Theatre, in the Store Ravnsborgsgade, in the 
 
 Suburb Norrebro. Ramble 6. ... 128 
 
 Zoological Gardens, near Frederiksberg Castle. En- 
 trance, 40 ore ; children, 20 ore. Ramble 6. .139 
 
 Zoological Museum, in the Krystalgade, joining the 
 University. Open Sunday and Wednesday from 12-2. 
 (Free.) Ramble '6, . . . . .76 
 
PLAN, 21 
 
 PLAN 
 
 Of what the visitor must not miss seeing, be the 
 stay ever so limited : — 
 
 FIKST DAY. 
 
 The Church of Our Lady, Thorwaldsen's Museum 
 for Sculpture, Zoological Gardens and Frederiksberg 
 Park, the Gardens in the Avenue at night, or Tivoli. 
 
 SECOND DAY. 
 
 Round Tower beside Trinity Church, Botanical 
 Gardens, Rosenborg Palace and Gardens ; then drive 
 to Klampenborg. 
 
 THIRD DAY. 
 
 Start by an early train for Hillerod ; see Freder- 
 iksborg, or " the Danish Kensington ; " then go on to 
 Elsinore, and return by the steamer in the evening to 
 Copenhagen. 
 
FIRST RAMBLE, 
 
 KING'S NEWMARKET 
 
 (kongen's nytorv). 
 
 This Square forms the centre of the town, and it 
 is from here that we shall direct our rambles. 
 In the middle of the square is a fine shrubbery, 
 ornamented with an immense, but by no means 
 beautiful, statue of Christian Y. on horseback, popu- 
 larly called '' Hesten " (the Horse). The figure 
 underneath the horse is meant to represent Sweden 
 being crushed by Christian Y. ; but, of course, it is 
 not loyal to say this, now that the two families are 
 united in marriage. The four figures surrounding 
 the pedestal represent Alexander the Great, Minerva, 
 Hercules, and Artemisia. The whole monument was 
 designed by the Frenchman L'Amoureux, and erected 
 in 1688. 
 
 Amongst the buildings surrounding the square, the 
 following are noteworthy : — Hotel d'Angleterre. 
 Beside the hotel there is a new street called 
 Hovedvagtgaden^ which leads into the Ny Ostergade, 
 At the corner of this street, and the Ny Adelgade, 
 is a clock which is lit up at night. The Thotts 
 Palace is another important building, situate at one 
 corner of Bredgade. In it resides the Russian 
 Embassy. 
 
FIRST RAMBLE. 23 
 
 CHARLOTTENBORG PALACE 
 
 (academy of arts) 
 
 Is near the Theatre in Kongens Nytorv. This 
 building was erected in the years 1672-73, and is 
 named after Charlotte Amalie, wife of Christian Y., 
 whose residence it formerly was. The materials for 
 building the palace were in part taken from the 
 famous Kallo Fortress, where the young Vasa was a 
 prisoner in 1518. One wonders at the sacrilege. 
 
 ** One may do whatever one likes 
 In Art, — the only thing is, to make sure 
 That one does like it — which takes brains to know. ' 
 
 The Academy was founded about 1754 by 
 Frederick Y. Exhibits every year in April the 
 latest works of Art. As the rooms of Chariot ten- 
 borg seemed too small and unfit for the Exhibition 
 of these Art treasures, the most renowned of the 
 artists at last succeeded, after long perseverance, to 
 erect the Exhibition building, in which effort the 
 Government at length assisted them. It is situated 
 behind the Charlottenborg, and in direct connection 
 with it, its chief entrance being on the Nyhavn. 
 The architecture is in keeping with the other parts 
 of the palace, and was designed and executed by 
 Albert Jensen in 1882-83. The lower rooms contain 
 the Antiquarian Collection and the Library. 
 The upper rooms are destined for the Art exhibits. 
 Amongst these are introduced the Royal picture 
 collection which was saved from the flames that 
 destroyed the unfortunate palace of Christiansborg. 
 
24 FIRST RAMBLE. 
 
 They may have to be moved at times until the plans 
 for the new museum are carried out ; so I will only 
 mention a few from the Royal Picture Gallery : — 
 
 69— By M. A. Caravaggio. • Soldiers Playing at Cards.* 
 67_By A. G. Colonia. ' Noah Leaving the Ark.' 
 72— By Louis Cranach. * Hercules Learning to Spin.' 
 79_By D, Delen, * Conversation in the Street.' 
 89— By C. Dolci. * A Head of Christ.' 
 91— By A. van Dyck. * Portrait of a Lady.' 
 92— By A. van Dyck. ' The Holy Family.' 
 09 — By A. Everdingens. * Wild Landscape.' 
 
 117— By J. Hackaert. * View from the South of Switzerland.' 
 
 182— By Filippino Lippe. Italian School. * The Meeting of 
 Joachim and Anna.' 
 
 201 — By A. Montegna. * Christ Has Risen.' 
 
 204— By Marinari. 'The Holy Cecilia.' Her festival is 
 celebrated by the Roman Church, 22nd November. 
 
 205~By F. Mazzola. Portrait of Laur Cybo. 
 
 221— By D. Mijtens. ' Charles Stuart L' 
 
 272 — By Van Ryn Rembrandt. * Christ at Emmaus.' 
 
 273— Do. 
 
 274— Do. 
 
 Rembrandt has constantly been compared to Titian by great 
 judges, including Sir Joshua Reynolds. His great power, says 
 Wornum, in his Epochs of Paintings, was portrait. His pictures 
 of this class are, as a rule, superior to his other works — 
 ** every care and every joy of the sitter's life is expressed," 
 thus realising Ruskin's apophthegm, that " the highest thing 
 art can do is to set before you the true image of a noble human 
 being." But Rembrandt's curious roughness of painting by 
 no means pleased all his patrons ; to such he would reply that 
 he was a painter, not a dyer. A copy of the "Hundred 
 Guilder Piece," Rembrandt's famous etching, was knocked 
 down at the Buccleuch sale for the British Museum at £1300, 
 
 288— By P. Rubens. * The Judgment of Solomon.' 
 292 — By T. Ruisdael. * Dutch Landscape by a River.' 
 
FIRST RAMBLE. 25 
 
 293— By T. Ruisdael. ' Landscape by a River.* 
 
 326 — By P. Somer. 'Charles I. of England executed, 
 
 1649.* 
 331— By J. Steen. * The Miser and Death.* 
 349 — By Tintoretto. * The Marriage in Cana of Galilee.' 
 
 It is said of Tintoretto that his manner resembled the 
 colouring of * Titian,' with a vigour of design similar to 
 'Michael Angelo.* 
 
 359 — By G. Troppa. Representing Mary Magdalene. 
 387 — By F. Wouters. * Venus Mourning over the Slain 
 
 Adonis. 
 418— By Albert Diirer. Portrait of Christian II. 
 461— By N. A. Abildgaard. 
 462— Do. 
 463-67 
 468-71 
 472-73 
 474-79 
 
 Abildgaard has the merit of having been Thorvaldsen 
 earliest teacher. He was the leader of a new school, founded on 
 the practice of David, under whom he had studied in Paris. 
 493 — By C. Bloch. *A Fisherman from Sorrent.' Tasso's 
 
 birthplace, in Sunny Italy. 
 4 9 4— Do. * Samson in th e Mill . ' 
 495— Do. * The Raising of Jairus' Daughter.' 
 496 — Do. * Christian II. in Sonderborg Prison,' Island of 
 Als. 
 
 He was immured in this prison for twenty years, with no 
 other companion than a half-witted dwarf, by orders of his 
 uncle and successor, Frederik I. Copenhagen, be it remem- 
 bered to its credit, refused to renounce its allegiance to the de- 
 posed sovereign. Perhaps they recalled the proverb, ** Better 
 the black angel you do know than the one you do not." 
 497— Do. * A Fish woman. ' 
 498— Do. ' A Kitchen Table.' 
 
 Bloch, like Exner, Yermehren, and Dalsgaard, gives evidence 
 of the sudden outburst of fervent patriotism which was called 
 
26 FIRST RAMBLE, 
 
 forth by the events of 1848, and by the disastrous termination 
 of the subsequent war with Germany. Since then Danish 
 artists have become very national in their choice of subjects, 
 and their works have gained proportionally in originality and 
 truth to Nature. 
 
 514_By Christian Dahl. * Battle of Heligoland, 1864.' 
 583 — By Hansen. * Room of Christian IV., at Rosenborg 
 Palace.' 
 
 584— Do. ' Room in Town Hall, Briiges.' 
 585 — Do. 'View of Gammelstrand, (Fish Market,) Copen- 
 hagen. ' 
 
 586^Do. ' Room of Gustav III., at Drotningholm.' 
 597 — By Elizabeth Jerichau. * The "Wounded Soldier. ' 
 597 — Do. * Portrait of the Sculptor, Jerichau.' 
 657— By W. Marstrand. 
 658— Do. 
 
 659 — Do. * Sunday by Siljan Lake, in Dalarne.' 
 660— Do. 
 661— Do. 
 662— Do. 
 663— Do. 
 664— Do. 
 665— Do. 
 
 666— By A. Melby. ' The Battle of Kjogebugt, fought 1677.' 
 667— Do. 'Eddystone Lighthouse.' 
 
 699 — By Reynolds, our famous English portrait painter. 
 Portrait of a lady, name unknown. 
 
 725— By P. C. Skovgaard. ' A Summer Day in the Woods of 
 
 Dyrehaven (Deer Park), near Copenhagen.' 
 7 43— Do. View. • North Coast of Sealand. ' 
 752— By F. Yermehren. * The Soldier's Funeral.' 
 760 — By K. Zahrtmann. * Queen Sophia Amalie, wife of 
 
 Frederik III.' 
 761— Do. * The beautiful Eleonore Christine Ulfeldt, daughter 
 of Christian lY. and Kirstine Munk.' 
 
 *^* The porter who shows visitors about gets 50 ore. 
 
FIRST RAMBLE, 27 
 
 THE ROYAL THEATRE j . 
 (det kongelige theater), 
 
 Or Opera House, is in the Kongens Nytorv, and was 
 founded 1739, by Frederik Y., and the new building 
 opened 1st October 1874. It is built almost on the site 
 of the old house, that had stood since 1794, "and was 
 no longer adequate to the demand." The present is 
 a magnificent building, and quite as imposing in its 
 general efiect as the Paris Opera House. The 
 architects were Ove Paterson and William Dahlerup. 
 On the right and left hand of the chief entrance are 
 the sitting bronze statues of the great Danish poets, 
 Oehlenschlseger, by Bissen, and Holberg, by Stein. 
 Adam Oehlenschlaeger was the greatest romantic lyric 
 author of Denmark. He was born 14th November 
 1779, in a small house on Yesterbro, Copenhagen, 
 and lived the rest of his childhood at Frederiksherg^ 
 where his father held a situation as organist. He 
 wrote a great many historic tragedies, and died 1850. 
 The other, Ludwig Holberg, was born at Bergen, in 
 Norway, in 1684. Frederick Y. created him a Baron. 
 He is the wit to whom Denmark owes not only her 
 National Theatre, but the very conviction that her 
 vernacular Dano-Norwegian could be used as capably 
 in giving expression to satire, wit, and poetry 
 as the French tongue, which had up till then been re- 
 garded as the sole medium of dramatic interpretation, 
 "The Political Pewterer " was the first of his thirty 
 plays, and was produced about 1722. (He endowed 
 with his wealth the noted Academy at Soro, and 
 rests in the church there near the warrior church- 
 
28 FIRST RAMBLE, 
 
 man Bishop Absalon). The craving for French plays 
 did not entirely pass away till half-a-century later ; 
 when Wessel, also a native of Norway, in his 
 dramatic epigram or parody entitled, " Love without 
 Stockings" (Kjoerlighed uden Stromper), 1772, gave 
 the decisive blow. Now the theatre is a veritable 
 school of patriotism, and in nothing is this more 
 forcibly shown than in the ballet, which, under the 
 form given to it by Bournonville fifty years ago, has 
 been converted into a species of dumb poetry, in 
 which incidents taken from early Northern history 
 are interpreted by dancing and gestures, to which a 
 special charm is given by the admirable musical 
 accompaniments which Hartmann and other Danish 
 composers have written for these pieces. As Goethe 
 would say, "no" language is needed, for their bodies 
 are easily understood channels for thought and 
 feeling^ and nothing like what we understand by a 
 ballet. This hallet d! action^ wherein the performer 
 is both actor and dancer, originated in Rome during 
 the reign of Augustus. 
 
 The theatre will hold about 1500 persons; the 
 royal box is seldom empty, royalty having evidently 
 as great a liking for amusement as the subjects. The 
 ceiling is divided into nine compartments, in which 
 the muses are painted by Aagaard, after the design 
 of Const. Hansen. Above the proscenium is an 
 inscription of a motto retained from the older house, 
 ** Not for pleasure only " (Ej blot til lyst). 
 
 The spacious corridors are used as a promenade 
 between acts, and make an agreeable break in the 
 performance, and the exits are so ready of access that 
 
FIRST RAMBLE, 29 
 
 it may be safely affirmed the risk of loss of life, in the 
 case of fire or panic, is reduced to a minimum. 
 
 The season lasts from the 1st of September till the 
 1st of June, Sundays included, which is, unfortunately, 
 often the best day. 
 
 The prices are for this, the Royal (ordinarily raised double), 
 1st parquet (or stall), 3, 50, 4, 50, 7 kroner ; 2nd parquet, 
 2, 75, 3, 50, 5, pit, 2 kroner, 2, 50, 4, kroner ; balcony, 3, 4, 
 6 kroner. 
 
 In taking the street which leads from the King's 
 Newmarket (Kongens Nytorv), at the right of the 
 Thottske Palace, we are in Bredgade (called in 
 English Broad Street). Soon we arrive at a place 
 called St. Anna Plads. Here we see to our right the 
 Garrison Church, built in the shape of across, 1689, 
 under Frederick IV. Let us continue the street, or 
 rather avenue, which leads us into this square, until 
 we see to our left the Amaliegadc Turning in here 
 we have soon on our right Casino Theatre, which 
 was built in 1846 by George Carstensen, the founder 
 of the beautiful Tivoli Gardens. This theatre is 
 known for its political meetings held in March 1848, 
 that greatly influenced the future of Denmark. It 
 contains two halls. In the large one operettas and 
 comedies are given ; it holds 1800 to 2000 people. The 
 other one only holds about six hundred, and is generally 
 used for concerts. In winter, large mask balls and 
 carnivals take place, occupying the whole building. 
 The playing-season for the Casino lasts from the 1st of 
 September till the close of May. The prices are — the 
 floor, 1 to 9 row, and the 1st and 2nd floor-boxes, 1 
 
30 FIRST RAMBLE, 
 
 krone, 50 (2 krones) ; 10 to 16 row, 3rd and 4th 
 floor-boxes, and standing-places near the stage, 1 krone, 
 25 ore, 1 krone 50 ore ; the other places on the floor, 
 those in the furthest and back floor-boxes, in first 
 storey, and the standing, places, 1 krone, 1 krone 
 25 ore ; the remaining places, 75 ore, and tickets for 
 children, 35 Ore. Continuing the Amaliegade, we see 
 also at the right the Palace, where the present royal 
 family lived very quietly till they came to the throne. 
 It is now occupied by the lately married Prince 
 Yaldemar and the Princess Marie of Orleans. 
 
 Now let us go through the pretty colonnade built 
 entirely of wood in 1794 by Harsdorfl*, serving as a 
 porch or entrance to 
 
 Amalienborg Palaces, 
 
 owing their origin to the desire expressed by 
 Frederik Y. that the nobles should take up their 
 abode in the north-east quarter of the town, which he 
 was building. In obedience to this wish, Counts 
 Levetzow and Moltke, the Dowager Countess of 
 Schack, and Baron Brockdorfl*, caused four palaces, in 
 the rococo style, uniform in size and appearance, to 
 be built in 1760, in an octagonal square known as 
 Amalienborg. The first building to the right was 
 originally owned by the Countess Schack, and is 
 now the residence of King Christian IX. The 
 second palace, also to the right, is the town residence 
 of the Crown Prince. To the left, from the porch 
 by which we entered, is the palace that was used by 
 the Dowager Queen Caroline Amalie, widow of 
 Christian VIII., who died 1848. The second, since 
 
FIRST RAMBLE. 31 
 
 the fire at Ohristiansborg Palace, has been used as 
 a museum and picture gallery. 
 
 In the middle of the square is an equestrian Statue 
 of Frederik V., by the Frenchman Saly, who was 
 (1754-1771) director of the Academy of Fine Arts in 
 Copenhagen. 
 
 In continuing the Amaliegade we see to our right 
 the Art Union, which formerly contained the 
 Classen's library, but is now joined to the University 
 library. Near this is the Almindelig Hospital ; 
 it is intended as a home for men and women that are 
 too old to work. 
 
 The Lying-in and Nursing Hospital, erected 
 1788 by the Queen Juliana Maria, has a large and 
 spacious locality at Amaliegade. The establishment 
 has a treble aim : partly to receive unmarried women 
 who are with child, for payment or without the same ; 
 partly to give those women who aspire at becoming 
 midwives an education as well practical as theoretical ; 
 and partly to take care of the babies, when the 
 mothers cannot afford to do it, or in other manner 
 not able to support them. The average number of 
 the children annually born here amounts to more 
 than 1000. The children born in the hospital, the 
 bringing-up of whom it defrays till they have reached 
 a certain age, are for the most part placed at the houses 
 of nurses in the town or in the country. In order to 
 avoid epidemics in the hospital, only twenty patients 
 are received at once ; and others are sent to midwives 
 in town. Opposite the Lying-in Hospital is 
 
 The Frederik Hospital. Frederik V. erected in 
 1752-1757 a large and excellently-arranged building 
 
32 FIRST RAMBLE, 
 
 in Amaliegade and Bredgade. It has room for 400 
 to 600 patients, and can every year receive at an 
 average 4000 patients, of whom a great number 
 have their cure gratuitously. Some sicknesses are 
 not treated in this hospital. In the wards the 
 greatest order and cleanliness prevails ; the curing is 
 carefully performed under the inspection of the best 
 physicians. For the enjoyment of such patients who 
 are permitted to be in the open air, belongs to the 
 hospital, a place called "the Green Court-yard." The 
 hospital is in posssssion of very rich legacies. 
 Facing the Amaliegade stands 
 
 St. Alban's English Episcopalian Church, 
 
 near the Custom House. It is the first English 
 church erected in Denmark, and that alone say€ 
 much for the ** church-going " nation we are supposed 
 to be. As Mazzini said of his country we might say 
 of our church, ** that there is little difficulty in find- 
 ing people ready to give their lives, but very consider- 
 able trouble to persuade them to give their money for 
 it." Several attempts have been made within the 
 last few years to raise the necessary funds for a 
 church ; but they were too much after the style of the 
 farmer, who asked Hercules to draw the wheels of 
 his cart out of the mud, without making a strenuous 
 effort himself. Had it not been for the assistance 
 rendered by their Royal Highnesses, the Prince and 
 Princess of Wales, I fear we still should have been 
 unrepresented. 
 
 The foundation stone was laid on Saturday, Septem- 
 ber 19th, 1885, by the Princess of Wales, who was 
 
FIRST RAMBLE. 33 
 
 escorted to the ceremony by her husband and 
 children, the Emperor and Empress of Russia, 
 together with members of the Danish Koyal Family, 
 whilst a Guard of Honour was formed by the blue- 
 jackets from the royal yacht Osborne. The church was 
 consecrated on Saturday, 17th September 1887, in 
 the presence of the same distinguished company — 
 namely, the Prince and Princess of Wales, the 
 King and Queen of Denmark, the Czar and 
 Empress of Russia, and the King and Queen of 
 Greece, as well as sons and sons-in-law of the 
 Danish King. 
 
 The church is dedicated to St. Alban, who, besides 
 being the proto-martyr of England, has always been 
 greatly venerated in Denmark, relics of the saint 
 having been carried over to England by Canute. 
 The design of the building is Early English, and the 
 materials are flints faced with limestone. Inside, 
 the walls are lined with white limestone, and a 
 dado of encaustic tiles runs round the church. The 
 reredos and font are embellished with designs by 
 Mr. George Tinworth. These, together with the 
 pulpit, communion plate, lectern, and Shropshire 
 tiles on the roof, are gifts from various British 
 firms. The British Minister of Copenhagen, Sir 
 Edmund Monson, K.C.M.G., also has presented a 
 stained glass window; and the bells are from the 
 Prince of Wales. The picturesque site on which 
 the church stands, " at the entrance to the harbour," 
 was granted on a perpetual lease by the Danish 
 Ministry. The funds in hand, at the time of open- 
 ing, amounted to £10,000, and were raised by 
 3 
 
34 FIRST RAMBLE. 
 
 committees in London and Copenhagen. The work 
 has been carried out by Danish contractors, all 
 drawings and designs having been supplied by the 
 architect, Mr. Arthur W. Bloomfield, of London. 
 
 CUSTOM HOUSE , 
 
 (toldboden) 
 
 Is that remarkably fine building situated to the right 
 at the far end of the Amaliegade. In taking the 
 street to the right called Toldbodveien, and follow- 
 ing the promenade Gronningen (Green Place), we 
 come to the place called Toldhodplads, where are large 
 custom and packing-houses. The square is surrounded 
 by a high railing. A visit here is highly interesting, 
 as it gives one an insight into the great commerce and 
 navigation of Copenhagen. 
 
 LONG LINE 
 
 (lange linie) 
 
 Is a neck of land between the Citadel and the sea, 
 leading from the Toldbodplads — a charming prom- 
 enade, with a fine view of the Sound, is much 
 frequented by the elite between two and four during 
 the season. Like the other public walks and drives, 
 the Long Line has taken the place of the old lines of 
 defence, whose demolition has contributed alike to 
 the health and the beauty of the city, which possesses 
 the {peculiar) attraction of having no conspicuously 
 poor or squalid districts. An order (easily obtained 
 l)y your hotel porter) is required for driving there. 
 Near the middle of the promenade there is a very 
 
FIRST RAMBLE. 35 
 
 pretty pavilion connected with a Cafe, where concerts 
 are given in the summer evenings. To the north of 
 the Long Line is 
 
 IVAR HVITFELDT'S MONUMENT. 
 
 " Death and danger he despises." 
 
 The monument was erected in 1886 by Dahlerup 
 upon a granite column, carrying on high a female 
 figure, who is holding in her hand a palm branch. 
 Ivar Hvitfeldt was commander of the line-of-battle 
 ship, Dannehrog^ at the memorable battle of Kjo- 
 gebugt, 4th October 1710. The Dannehrog took fire 
 in the action, and Hvitfeldt might have saved him- 
 self by leaving his anchorage and drifting ashore, but 
 he would thereby have endangered the whole Danish 
 fleet. The valiant captain and his heroic crew, there- 
 fore, with certain death before them, fired broadside 
 upon broadside into the Swedish ships, until the fire 
 reached the powder magazine, and up they flew to glory. 
 
 Surely, a nation that produces such men cannot 
 die. As Holger Danske would say, ** There are still 
 men in Denmark," that the conquests of eight 
 centuries have left substantially the same as in the 
 days when Ragnor Lodbrog chanted his death-song 
 amid the encircling vipers, and Hobbo of Odinsee 
 hewed Ella in pieces before the gates of York. 
 Passing on we come to the 
 
 BATHING ESTABLISHMENTS, 
 
 To the north of Lange Linie, to be reached in the 
 shortest time by going through the Citadel. Here 
 
36 FIRST RAMBLE, 
 
 is afforded a good opportunity for learning to swim 
 without the danger of drowning. A place of moder- 
 ate depth is barricaded off, with a long wooden 
 bridge as an approach, and some one is engaged 
 to keep watch in case of accident. The same good 
 custom prevails in many other Continental countries, 
 and nothing is worthier of our imitation; for the 
 ** Drowning Fatality " is, sad to say, the commonest 
 of all our newspaper headings during the summer 
 months. Sea bath, 20 ore ; towel, 8 ore. 
 
 Passing the bathing establishments, we turn to the 
 left, and soon pass the Blind Asylum and Deaf 
 and Dumb Asylum. The latter teach lip reading, 
 and not finger language. 
 
 Just behind the Deaf and Dumb Asylum is the 
 
 GARRTSOlSi CHURCHYARD 
 
 (garnisonskirkegaarden). 
 
 This piece of ground is dotted with plain wooden 
 tablets, all bearing the same terribly significant date, 
 1864, and the brief, touching inscription : — 
 
 *' Died for the Fatherland ; " 
 
 fit epitaph for such men, who knew, at least, how to 
 die "like the brave men of Troy," when success 
 was hopeless. Not a single man buried here was 
 over thirty-five ! Picked men were they, Denmark's 
 best and bravest — "rare food for powder," as the 
 Imperial artillerist used to say of his legions. 
 
 It was to prevent the incorporation of Schleswig- 
 Holstein with Denmark, whose Dukes happened to 
 
FIRST RAMBLE, 37 
 
 be at the same time Kings of Denmark, that the 
 Germans made war on the unfortunate Danes. The 
 late Imperial Prince Frederick Charles Nicholas, 
 styled the ** Red Prince/' a name derived from the 
 colour of his hussar uniform — to us in England better 
 known as the father of the Duchess of Connaught — 
 commanded the overwhelming numbers and Prussian 
 needle-guns at Dybbol. ** In pace requiescant." 
 
 Now we come out on the Osterbrogade, and cross 
 over to the burying-ground belonging to Holmens 
 Church, and here we see the Churchyard of the 
 Navy (Soetatens Kirkegaard). 
 
 " I never can see a green churchyard 
 But I think I may slumber there ; 
 And I wonder within me what strange disease 
 Shall bring me to homes so fair." 
 
 You will not be sorry to have spent a little time in 
 wandering over ''God's Acre" — the graves are so 
 nicely kept, long after we in our country, with 
 our shorter memories and more evanescent affections, 
 would have ceased to remember the departed ; and 
 the beautiful avenue of trees make an agreeable 
 shelter for a stroll, where you may meditate 
 on the fate that has befallen those who have taken 
 "the step in advance." What a profound thinker 
 was that Jew of the sixth century before Christ, who, 
 beholding the fall of the empires of his time, 
 exclaimed, *' Behold how the nations weary them- 
 selves about nothing," for life, as Wendell Holmes 
 says, " is nothing but the edge of the boundless ocean 
 of existence, where it comes on sounding." 
 
 One of the most striking monuments to note is the 
 
38 FIRST RAMBLE. 
 
 barrow-shaped mound, raised to the memory of the 
 officers and men who fell in defending their city 
 against Nelson, on the 2nd April 1801. The mound 
 is not nearly so large as that of- England's heroes at 
 Waterloo, but large enough, forsooth, to bring sad 
 thoughts, and make one wish that some had shown 
 the ** white feather," — 
 
 " For those that fly may fight again, 
 "Which he can never do that's slain ; 
 Hence timely running's no mean part 
 Of conduct in the martial art." 
 
 The great cemeteries have, besides, many fine 
 ornamental monuments, but they lack the pathos of 
 those who died in harness, and who will say they died 
 in vain ? 
 
 Now let us take the tram back from the church- 
 yard entrance to the Tram Station under the trees 
 beside Frederikshavn citadel, or go into Bredgade 
 (Broad Street) with the tram. To the left, as we go 
 along Bredgade, we soon see the Catholic Churchy 
 called St. Ansgarii, erected in 1842. Further along 
 on the same side we see the Conservatory, or 
 Musical School, founded in 1867 by a legacy.. The 
 aim is to give, as far as possible, a comprehensive 
 and solid instruction in music ; and beside it, ob- 
 serve the former palace of the deceased Frederick of 
 Hessen. Opposite this palace is the 
 
 Marmorkirken (Marble Church). It was com- 
 menced in 1749, after a grand design, but the money 
 to carry it out was wanting ; so it has stood till 
 lately, a pathetic spectacle of ancient Rome, and the 
 folly of its promoters, who set to work to build a 
 
FIRST RAMBLE. 39 
 
 house without first counting the cost. The Danes are, 
 however, quite as rabid as ourselves in their ideas 
 about ruins being ornamental ; so it was partly de- 
 molished to fit into a fresh design, under the manage- 
 ment of Etatsraad Tietgen, who bought it with the 
 understanding that it was still to be built as a 
 church. 
 
 Next we pass the Palace of the late Prince Ferdi- 
 nand, bought by Prince George of Greece. 
 
 Alexander Newsky Kapellet (Greek Catholic 
 
 Church) is further along the Bredgade on the same 
 side, and worth visiting. It was built in 1883 by the 
 Russian Government, in the Byzantic-Russian style, 
 designed by the architect Grimm, and executed by 
 Meldahl and Jensen. Noteworthy for its three gilded 
 domes, according to Russian style, and for its numer- 
 ous bells seen from the street. 
 
 In order to visit the church one must apply to the 
 sexton, who lives in the building. 
 
 It is shown on Mondays from - - - 10 to 12 
 „ ,, Tuesdays from - - - 12 to 2 
 
 „ „ Wednesdays from - - 2 to 4 
 
 In bad weather the church is closed to visitors. On 
 the other side is a Permanent Exhibition (Kunstud- 
 stilling) in Schimmelmann's Palace. Open every 
 day from 9-4 ; entrance, 50 ore. 
 
 Then we come to the beautiful Palace of Count 
 Moltke, 2 Dronningens Tvcergade, corner of 
 Bredgade, built in renaissance style. 
 
 The Picture Gallery in this palace belongs to Count 
 Moltke, who lives at Bregentved, an estate lying in 
 
40 FIBST RAMBLE, 
 
 the middle part of Sealand. The estate was a gift 
 to Adam Gottlob Moltke, from Frederik Y., about 
 1745, along with the earldom. It contains about 150 
 works, belonging almost exclusively to the Dutch 
 school of the 17th century, among which are some 
 beautiful pictures by the greatest masters : — No. 8, 
 Ruben's half-length picture of a monk ; 13-16, several 
 genuine pictures from the younger Dav. Teniers, 
 from 1646, 1666, 1667, and 1674 ; 32, Rembrandt, 
 the image of an old woman (about 1656) ; 56-59, 
 Jacob von Ruisdael, four pictures, two of which are 
 rather extensive rich compositions, with falls and 
 currents ; 50-61, M. Hobbema," woody Dutch land- 
 scape, brilliant colours, broad execution ; 93, Paulus 
 Potter, grazing cattle ; several genuine works by 
 Phil. Wouwerman ; 89 (the stable) is to be specially 
 mentioned. The greater part of this collection was, 
 as the Royal Gallery, procured by Morel 1, dealer in 
 works of art, in the middle of the 17th century. 
 Open from 1st April till 1st November, Saturdays 
 and Sundays. 
 
 Entrance free. Catalogue, 70 ore. 
 
SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 From the King's Newmarket (Kongens Nytorv) 
 we go to the left through the Gothers-gade, past 
 the Rosenborg Palace garden (Rosenborg Have\ to 
 the left Reformed Church, which was erected 1688. 
 Opposite the church is the Parade ground^ which was 
 formerly part of the flower garden belonging to 
 Rosenborg Castle, but now used as a drill ground for 
 the Foot Guards, whose barracks are close by. Then 
 we pass on to the 
 
 BOTANICAL GARDEN. '^ 
 (entrance from the corner op gothers-gade.) 
 
 The Botanical Garden was formerly at Nyhavn^ 
 on a piece of ground belonging to Charlottenborg, 
 but now laid out on the ancient glacis of the fortifica- 
 tions and a part of the declivity of the rampart, with 
 the intermediate part of the moat that is partly 
 filled up with earth and partly preserved as a basin of 
 water. Its area amounts to about twenty-two acres 
 of land. There is a considerable museum, with 
 lecture-rooms and library, several partitions for 
 cultivating plants in the open air, sixteen hothouse 
 partitions in two stories, a house for warm water- 
 plants, and a Palm House, together with dwellings 
 
42 SECOND RAMBLE, 
 
 for the gardener and his assistants. The number of 
 the plants is calculated at 12,000 in double 
 specimens. 
 
 The gardens are open from 1 o'clock till sunset 
 (free). The Palm House open from April 1 till 
 October 31, from 3 till 6 o'clock, but a small 
 gratuity will give admission at almost any time. 
 
 THE KOMMUNE HOSPITAL 
 
 \j (tester farimags-gade). 
 
 Note that handsome building looking down on the 
 Palm House. Scarcely any capital in the world 
 surpasses Copenhagen in the number of charitable 
 foundations ; but, excepting the Communal (Kom- 
 mune) Hospital, finished in 1863, none have any 
 architectural attraction ; it is one of the largest and 
 most prominently placed buildings in the city. The 
 hospital is principally for the poor who have no 
 room, and no means, to be nursed at home. Patients 
 are taken in the whole day, till 8 o'clock p.m. ; 
 patients are allowed to receive visitors from 12 to 
 2 and 4 to 6 p.m. In 1877 there were 7,670 
 patients. Turning back to entrance of Botanical 
 Garden, we turn to the left. Beyond the Norre- 
 volds-BouIevard, on a hill, is the 
 
 ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY 
 ^ (astronomisk observatorium), 
 
 Erected on part of the old ramparts, near Rosenborg. 
 Mr. Christian Hansen was the builder. The observa- 
 tory is connected by an electric conductor with the time 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 43 
 
 signal on Nicolai Tower, where a ball is lowered every 
 day at ten o'clock. Tycho Brahe, called the 
 " Prince of Astronomers." This monument was 
 erected by Bissen, 8th August 1876 — ^just three hun- 
 dred years after the founding of his observatory on the 
 island of Hveen, where he discovered, on the 1st 
 November 1572, the Cassiopeia, which so often goes by 
 the name of Tycho Brahe's star. " Only Venus at her 
 brightest surpasses this new star," he asserts. Science 
 has since proved it to be no new star, but one that 
 shines out with great lustre for a few months, once in a 
 period of three hundred years. So the world wags on, 
 and each generation of philosophers laughs at the con- 
 clusions of their predecessors. ** Some day" all may be 
 discovered, yet I doubt if we shall be much the happier. 
 Aladdin remained a poor creature for all his genius. 
 
 But the fact that, after three hundred years have 
 passed away, his statue has been erected here, is 
 an eloquent testimony to the abiding interest of his 
 countrymen, and shows that time is necessary to the 
 appreciation of genius. 
 
 This eccentric, hot-tempered, superstitious man was 
 born 14th December 1546, of a noble Swedish family, 
 settled at Knudstrup, in Denmark ; then an inferior 
 marriage having caused a family quarrel, Brahe pro- 
 posed leaving the country, when Frederik II., unwilling 
 to lose so gifted a subject, bestowed on him the island 
 of Hveen, in the Sound,* where he might erect an 
 observatory at the royal expense. The first stone was 
 laid August 8th, 1576, and the castle was named by 
 Brahe, " Uranienborg " (the castle of Urania). Here 
 * It now beloncrs to Sweden. 
 
44 SECOND RAMBLE, 
 
 he was frequently visited by James VI. of Scotland 
 and I. of England, who must have enjoyed his discus- 
 sions on astronomy as well as the unshackled life of the 
 Danish court, or he would hardly have converted his 
 intended stay of ten days into nearly six months. A 
 homely chronicler of the day gives an amusing account 
 of James's anxiety to kiss his betrothed, the young 
 Princess Anne, whose coy maidenhood was offended 
 at the supposed familiarity until the manners of 
 the royal bridegroom's country were explained. Now 
 the pastime often gets full swing, as their progress 
 in this, as in everything else, has been rapid. 
 
 But to return to Tycho Brahe and his observatories 
 — for he had two — the other was called " Stjerneborg " 
 (The Castle of the Stars), After many fluctuations 
 and loss of pension, consequent on the death of his 
 patron, " King Frederik," this wonderful man had 
 been by turns lawyer, duellist, chemist, astrologer, 
 astronomer, a wooer of Cassandra, and a tapper at the 
 lattice of the divine for a peep into the future, like 
 the First Consul Bonaparte, who used to give his hand 
 to the Sybil, *' Mademoiselle Lenormand," and had as 
 much faith in her revelations as Brahe had in the 
 jibberings of the idiot whom he used to listen to as to 
 the \oice of Heaven. Died at Prague, 14th October 
 1601. His famous observatories were, some hundred 
 years later, ignominiously pulled down by order of a 
 rich nephew called Jorgen Brahe, known as the little 
 king in Fyen, in order that the materials might be 
 used in building his cattle sheds at Hvedholm. What 
 a sarcasm on genius ! It has often been said that " a 
 prophet is not without honour save in his own 
 
ROSENBORG PALACE. — Page 45. 
 
SECOND RAMBLE. 45 
 
 country and among his own kindred." The fate of 
 Tycho Brahe's observatories goes far to prove the 
 justice of that aphoristic utterance. 
 
 EOSENBORG PALACE / 
 (opposite the observatory). 
 
 Rosenborg was formerly surrounded by water and 
 provided with a drawbridge. Christian IV. built 
 the qastle as a dwelling-place to which he could 
 easily retire from the noise of the busy capital ; and 
 when he felt his end approaching, he had himself 
 conveyed from Frederiksborg here, that he might 
 await death in the midst of his faithful subjects. 
 For this purpose, the carriage was placed upon 
 runners, and thus transformed into a sledge, drawn 
 by eight horses, it carried the quiet procession across 
 the drawbridge into the court-yard of beautiful 
 Rosenborg, which King Christian on that day 
 entered for the last time. 
 
 The castle is built in the so-called German-Nether- 
 lands-Renaissance style, — with numerous gables and 
 towers. The castle is red brick and sandstone 
 from Jutland. The builder was Inigo Jones, a 
 native of London, and architect to the English 
 Court. Amongst the principal works ascribed to 
 him is the Palace of Whitehall, London, and the 
 Edinburgh Parliament House. He died at the good 
 old age of eighty, June 1653. The Palace is now 
 reserved for the Chronological Collection of the 
 Danish kings, and kept up at the expense of the 
 State. The founder of the historical collection is 
 
46 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 said to have been Frederick III., son and successor 
 of Christian TV, It has been continued in an 
 unbroken series to the close of the reign of the 
 last king. Its present admirable arrangement is 
 due to the talent and technical knowledge of 
 Professor Worsaae, who died in 1886. The Regalia 
 is preserved here, and these, with the silver and 
 
 Narwhale Coronation Chairs, guarded by silver 
 
 lions, and other innumerable treasures of art (some of 
 which are priceless), afford a striking proof -of the 
 incongruity existing, under the autocratic rulers of 
 Denmark, between the wealth and lavish expendi- 
 ture of the kings and the general poverty of the 
 nation ; for during the two centuries in which these 
 costly objects were procured the country was ground 
 down by taxation, till the State was nearly bankrupt. 
 The castle forms a worthy casket for the extra- 
 ordinary, beautiful, and valuable collection within its 
 walls, and is thought not to have its match in Europe. 
 The building has in course of time undergone many 
 changes. For instance, the two massive stone stair- 
 cases that gave admittance to the castle, have been 
 removed, and the corridor has been repaired and 
 hung with paintings, which are illustrations of the 
 first two centuries of the Hoyal House of 01denborg» 
 I wish I had the power to make them speak ; for I 
 would have liked very much to have unravelled the 
 history of each, for my own pleasure as well as yours, 
 but the task is beyond me, and when I appeal to the 
 pictures themselves they are mute. 
 
SECOND RAMBLE. 47 
 
 CHRISTIAN I Y.—(l 588-1 648)— AUDIENCE 
 
 ROOM 
 
 (audientssal). 
 
 This is the first room the visitor is shown into from 
 the corridor. The marble flooring was, unfortunately, 
 removed, together with some others, to adorn Fredens- 
 borg Castle in 1722, and replaced with painted 
 wood, so as to give some idea of the former splendid 
 one. The ceiling paintings are partly done on wood 
 and partly on canvas. The walls are of oak, adorned 
 with ninety-five paintings, dating, with a few excep- 
 tions, from the time of the room, and are not of any 
 great value. The chimney bears the date of the year 
 1615. There is no show of frivolous splendour, but 
 great harmony, and attention to what would last 
 through future times. Let us look in the north- 
 eastern window and see Christian lY.'s famous voice- 
 conductor. Four cupboards in the wall contain 
 reminiscence of the older times, amongst which note 
 
 QUEEN DOROTHEA'S BRIDAL ORNAMENT 
 
 (Dronnixg Dorothea's Brudesmykke). 
 
 It was a gift from Christian III.'s queen for the 
 use of the citizen's daughters, who had also caught 
 the passion for parade and extravagance that reigned 
 amongst the nobles. Royalty had set the example, 
 nobility would have nothing else, and the rest 
 followed *4ike sheep over a dyke." The ornament 
 was regarded as a precious gift, and is mentioned by 
 Holborg in his History of Denmark, Peter Nissen 
 speaks of it in his Treatise on Sams'6^ and several 
 other authors. Is is of silver, with an eagle in the 
 
48 SECOND B AMBLE, 
 
 middle holding the Saxonian arms (the queen^s 
 escutcheon), the uppermost border of which displays 
 the date of the year 1557, in its talon. 
 
 Framed in glass, at the back of this cupboard door, 
 is the celebrated blood-stained suit that Christian lY. 
 wore when he lost his eye in the battle of 
 Kolbergerheide. 
 
 THE OLDENBORG HORN 
 
 (det oldenborgske horn) 
 
 Takes us back to Christian I., the father of the 
 Oldenborg line, 1448 to 1481. It is of silver, dis- 
 playing a rich embellishment of figures of serpents 
 and dragons, etc., in chiselled work. According to 
 tradition, it is said to date from the 14th century, 
 and connected with some event in the history of 
 Christian I. The oldest tradition of the Horn says 
 that Count Otto I. of Oldenborg had it given him 
 by a fair maiden, whilst hunting one day in the 
 forest, and having got separated from his companions. 
 The side of a mountain opened, and out stepped 
 a maid with the horn in her hand, and bade Count 
 Otto drink the contents, and fortune would favour 
 his house; then the fairy, having accomplished her 
 mission, returned to Fairyland, a domain to which 
 in difficulty people have as regularly betaken them- 
 selves for a solution of a mystery as astronomers 
 do to comets, or German philosophers to their *' inner 
 consciousness." 
 
 Another, and much more likely version of the 
 Horn's history is, that it was intended by Christian 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 49 
 
 as a gift to the three holy kings in Cologne, when he 
 went to visit the German Emperor, Frederik III., on 
 a mission of peace, a quarrel having arisen between 
 the Archbishop of Cologne and the Chapter there. 
 Near the edge of the lid is an inscription in black 
 letters, " Baltazar, Caspar, Melcior " — names of the 
 three holy kings — which bear out this idea. Then the 
 king's heedless extravagance caused constant want of 
 money, so that he may have thought the gift more 
 useful to himself. Christian might have said with the 
 poet Burns — 
 
 ** Coin my pouches would not bide in," 
 and is not inaptly named " the purse with a hole in 
 it," and brings to mind some lines written, with 
 smart audacity, by a young poet, on George III. going 
 to ask Parliament for supplies — 
 
 " Now, what to tax was the affair ; 
 It could be neither hide nor hair.'^ 
 
 The acceptance of the Slesvig-Holstein compact was 
 only one of his acts by which the dismemberment of 
 the monarchy was accelerated. Another was the 
 long-contested Orkney and Shetland Isles, which he 
 pledged to his son-in-law in place of the 60,000 
 gulden (about ,£6000) that had been given by him as 
 a dowry for his daughter Margaret, on her marriage 
 with James III. of Scotland, the result being, 
 that as these lands were not redeemed within the 
 appointed time, they became the property of the 
 Scotch Crown. 
 
 Amongst the few pictures of any antiquarian and 
 artistic value in the picture gallery of Holyrood, 
 4 
 
50 SECOND RAMBLE, 
 
 Edinburgh, is one of the youthful Margaret of 
 Denmark, who was married in the Abbey Church, close 
 by, while yet in her sixteenth year — the youthful 
 monarch not having completed his eighteenth year. 
 She is said to have been a princess of great beauty 
 and accomplishments. 
 
 BED-ROOM (Sovekammer) OF CHEISTIAN IV. 
 
 In which, on the 28th February 1648, he breathed 
 his last. Here his chaplain, Laurits Jacobsen, asked 
 him if he died believing in Christ; and the grand 
 old king made answer, " Ne dubites *' — (Only do not 
 doubt it.) Four rings in the roof have, in all 
 probability, held the bed curtains. Among the 
 pictures is one representing the king taking his last, 
 long sleep. About the most highly interesting 
 reminiscence is 
 
 A CLOCK, FROM Christian IV. *s Childhood. 
 (Et Uhr era Christian IV. 's Barndom.) 
 
 It is in the form of a square gilded box, about two 
 inches high and four inches long and broad ; the dial- 
 plate is of silver, ornamented with Boman figures. 
 The crowned initials of Frederik V. lead to the 
 supposition that the clock had been repaired for him. 
 A plate at the bottom of the box has the following 
 inscription engraved in Boman letters : ** Anno, 1584. 
 Gaf. Konning. Frederick Den. Anden, Til Denemark 
 Och — Norge — etc. Sin — Son. Kristian Dette, 
 Segeverk.*' (In the year 1584, King Frederik II. of 
 Denmark and Norway gave this timepiece to his son 
 Christian.) This clock is a special object of interest. 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 51 
 
 not only from its dating from Christian's childhood, 
 but also because people of that period were super- 
 stitious enough to connect clocks with the "black 
 art," so much so, indeed, that a mighty Russian Czar is 
 said to have returned, with horror, the gift of a clock 
 from Christian III. of Denmark, because " the tick- 
 tack sounded in his ear as the voice of an evil spirit." 
 Passing through other rooms, on a table note a 
 silver equestrian figure of the king, which was given 
 to him after the festival of his coronation. It is 
 intended for 
 
 A DRINKING CUP 
 
 (Et Drikkebager), 
 
 He is represented as clad in a suit of armour, with a 
 plumed hat on his head and a spear in his hand. 
 Beneath the horse is the king's fool. On the columns 
 the names and coats-of-arms of the princes and of the 
 knights, who distinguished themselves on that occa- 
 sion are engraved. The whole weighs about 1000 
 ounces. When the horse is serving as a cup, the 
 head is parted from the body, and the latter will not 
 disappoint the thirsty, if he is able to lift it well 
 filled to his mouth. 
 
 KNIGHT-DUBBING SWORD OF 
 
 CHRISTIAN lY. 
 
 (Ridderslags-Kaarde). 
 
 The blade is one of the renowned Toledo blades, 
 which, during the 16th and 17th centuries, stood so 
 high in the reputation of Europe. The hilt is of gold, 
 ornamented with blue enamel and diamonds. The 
 
 J 
 
52 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 dubbing of knights took place in the Knights' Hall ; 
 here the king sat in state, surrounded by his brilliant 
 court. The crown of the same king was made by a 
 celebrated goldsmith named Thomas Fruren, of 
 Odense, Island of Funen. 
 
 Amongst the costumes is one Christian wore on 
 the day of his coronation. It is in the style of a 
 Spanish knight's dress, worked in gold brocade, inter- 
 woven with flowers of silver and crimson silk. 
 Another is a suit of Brabant lace, which he wore 
 attending the funeral of his first-born son. Christian, 
 the elected king. 
 
 QUEEN ANNA CATHERINE'S SILVER 
 FOUNTAIN 
 
 (solvfontaine). 
 
 It is thought to have served the queen at her 
 toilet, and probably belonged to a greater collection 
 of splendid furniture. The fountain is of silver, fitted 
 with three basins and two reservoirs. The highest 
 has been intended for incense, and the others for 
 scented waters. The stand on which it rests is of 
 ebony, ornamented with silver. 
 
 Anna Catherine, queen of Christian IV., and lovely 
 daughter of Frederick of Brandenburg, died on the 
 29th March 1612, in her thirty-seventh year, after 
 having borne six children, three of whom survived 
 her, the others having died in infancy. 
 
 His morganatic wife was Christina Munk, the Chan- 
 cellor's niece. Christian was doubtless the most 
 energetic of his race, his only failing being over- 
 indulgence to his children, and a love of women. 
 
SECOND I^ AMBLE. 53 
 
 Hawthorn says, **A11 brave men love, and the world 
 at large does not account it a heinous sin in the male 
 species." And Christian's subjects were like the 
 disciples of old Cato, who, when it was proved to 
 them that their great man got drunk, argued that 
 Cato could not do a bad thing. 
 
 FEEDERIK III.— 1648-1670. 
 
 Frederik succeeded his father. Christian IV., at a 
 time when the country was sunk in great misery, and 
 the crown stripped of all authority by the nobles in 
 their conditions of election restrictions of the personal 
 independence of the monarch, which had hitherto 
 been unknown in Danish history. In this king's 
 reign the peace was signed, at Roskilde, which 
 deprived Denmark of all her East-Sound provinces. 
 
 Amidst all the valuable remembrances that carry 
 us back to the days of Frederik III. there is only 
 time to note one — a costume. It is a coat and 
 breeches cut in the Netherlandish fashion. The 
 material is a greyish-brown cloth. In front, on the 
 sleeves, and along the seams is a trimming of gold 
 and silver braid, while the hat is edged with gold 
 lace. The white neckerchief has its ends spread on 
 the breast, and is adorned with white lace. 
 
 MARBLE ROOM 
 (Marmor Varelset) 
 Is a striking example of the intruding rococo. 
 
54 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 QUEEN SOPHIE AMALIE, 
 Wife of Fredebik III. 
 
 A table and stand for candlesticks. Both stand 
 and table are richly adorned. A wreath of flowers 
 surrounds two shields, the Danish with the lions and 
 the hearts, and that of Luneburg with the leaping 
 horse. 
 
 QUEEN SOPHIE AMALIE'S JEWEL OASKET 
 
 (SMYKKESKRiiN). 
 
 This jewel casket is seen further on, but it is as 
 well to mention it here. This is a relic which must 
 always be of interest to English visitors, for it was a 
 gift from our Queen Anne, who had married George, 
 the son of Frederik III. and Sophie Amalie. 
 
 The material of which the casket is composed is 
 chiefly silver, ornamented with cut crystals, through 
 which the bottom of the box is seen, whereon is a 
 relief of embossed work representing the Paris Judg- 
 ment. The casket is also decorated with thousands 
 of diamonds. 
 
 OHDER OF THE ELEPHANT 
 
 (Elefantordenen). 
 
 It is the principal Danish order, and of equal rank 
 with the most celebrated of foreign orders, and one of 
 the most ancient badges of honour in Europe. The 
 Order owes its origin to Christian I., as King of 
 Sweden. It has long been reserved for royal and 
 other highly distinguished personages. Its badge 
 
SECOND RAMBLE. 55 
 
 consists of a white and gold enamelled and diamond- 
 studded elephant, bearing a tower on its back ; and 
 on state occasions is worn suspended from a massive 
 chain of alternate elephants and towers similarly 
 adorned, from the neck. 
 
 The Knights' mantle of the Order is of crimson 
 velvet, lined with white quilted satin, adorned with a 
 broad collar of the same material, with a large star 
 on the left side of the breast ; a long train is for 
 princes only. The complete costume of the Order 
 will be seen hanging among the various kings' clothes, 
 and are well worth noting. On the 1st January the 
 Chapter of the Knights of the Elephant is held. 
 
 THE ORDER OF THE GARTER 
 
 (hosebaandsordenen). 
 
 This Order has been given to seven Danish kings — 
 namely, Erik of Pomerania, who received it from 
 Henry V. ; Hans, from Henry VII. ; Frederik II., 
 from Elizabeth (whom he is said to have asked in 
 marriage) ; Christian IV., from James I. ; Frederik 
 VI., from George IV.; Frederik VII. and his 
 majesty, the reigning king, received it from Queen 
 Victoria. 
 
 Frederik II. seems to have been the only king not 
 very anxious to receive the honour intended by the 
 gift. Lord Willoughby, who was entrusted with the 
 mission, tells an amusing story of how he had to 
 satisfy the king of the honour intended, by sending 
 him a picture of a man attired in the habit of the 
 
56 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 Order, together with the use of the statutes. The 
 king had objected to array himself in the habit, or to 
 submit to any other ceremonies than that of simply 
 receiving it in the name of the Father, the Son, and 
 the Holy Ghost. But after all was clearly explained 
 by the English negotiator, his majesty acquiesced in 
 receiving the whole, and went to Kronborg, where 
 great preparations were made to celebrate the event. 
 It was on Tuesday, 13th August 1582, that the 
 king, surrounded with a splendid Court, received the 
 Order. After the ceremonies all the guns in Kron- 
 borg, it is said, thundered across the swelling waves 
 the tidings of the honour that had befallen King 
 Frederik. The Order of the Garter has its origin, as 
 most people are aware, in the finding of the Countess 
 of Salisbury's garter at a ball by Edward III., the 
 finding causing much merriment to the surrounding 
 knights, till Edward turned the laugh upon them by 
 holding up the garter, and vowing that it should 
 retain such honour that many would sigh for it often 
 and long. 
 
 The habit of the Order consists of a suite of white 
 silver tissue, hat with waving plumes, and a blue 
 velvet mantle, on the left side of which is an 
 octagonal star, with the cross of St. George, and the 
 ribbon with the motto, ** Honi soit qui mal y pense " 
 (Evil be to him who evil thinks). The badge of the 
 Order itself consists of a garter of blue velvet with 
 the motto in diamonds. The Order has not had 
 many good banquets in Queen Victoria's time, as her 
 majesty dislikes extra expense almost as much as 
 the fatigue of entertaining company. But Madam 
 
SECOND RAMBLE. 57 
 
 Tussaud, in London, has a model of the late King of 
 the Belgians in full array. 
 
 George, the patron saint of England, is said to 
 have appeared miraculously, like the Dannebrog, when 
 the Crusaders were beginning to lose heart at the 
 siege of Jerusalem, But, again, another historian 
 describes him as George of Cappadocia, who was born 
 in a fuller's shop, and an infamous extortioner and 
 heretic, who was killed in Alexandria in the year 
 361, because of his many iniquities. The 23rd of 
 April is held sacred to the memory of St. George, 
 by an order of the council of Oxford passed 1222. 
 
 CHRISTIAN v.— 1670-1697. 
 
 Note a remarkable article of dress from this 
 king's time — namely, a red silk jerkin, interwoven 
 with silver elephants and stars, in all probability a 
 kind of intended habit of the Order of the Elephant. 
 
 FREDERIK IV.— 1699-1730. 
 
 When Crown Prince he was married to the 
 Princess Louise of Mecklenburg, on the 5th Decem- 
 ber 1695. His wedding dress is thought to be the 
 most beautiful of all the costumes at Rosenborg, and 
 that is saying much. The coat and breeches are of 
 crimson velvet, adorned with silver embroidery. 
 
 Frederik's other wife was Anna Sofie, daughter 
 of his chancellor. Count Reventlov, with whom he 
 made off in Quixotic fashion from her father's house, 
 near Randers, to Skanderborg Castle, where a bishop 
 performed the marriage service with a readiness that 
 does not give too favourable an idea of the Danish 
 
58 SECOND RAMBLE, 
 
 king and his clergy in the early part of the 18th 
 century ; for the lady was not only married, but 
 crowned Queen of Denmark and Norway the day 
 following the first queen's burial. Like Pat, I 
 suppose the king thought — "Ain't she as dead now 
 as she iver will be ! " After the death of Frederik, 
 Sofie was banished from Court, and returned to her 
 old home to die of small-pox, doubtless wishing, 
 like Wolsey, that she had served her God with half 
 the zeal that she had served the king. 
 
 ROSE ROOM 
 
 (VARELSET ROSEN). 
 
 This room retains its name from out of the glory of 
 ancient times. The tapestries with which the walls 
 are decorated, are thought to have been brought by 
 Frederik lY. from Italy, and are imitations after 
 Raphael and other masters, all nearly of mythological 
 purport, such as the fables of Psyche, gamboling 
 Cupids, Galatea, etc. The magnificent chandelier of 
 cut crystal is, according to tradition, a gift from Louis 
 XIV. to Christian V. Below the chandelier stands a 
 table and arm-chair of silver, thought to be made 
 from the silver works of Kongsberg, one of whose pits 
 belonged to Anna Sophie. The chair also bears the 
 Norwegian arms and the date 11th October 1715. 
 Don't forget to look at Frederik IV. 's picture ; it 
 is by the renowned French Court painter, Rigaud. 
 
 CHRISTIAN VI .—1730-1746. 
 
 Christian went abroad in disgust after his father's 
 hasty marriage with Anna Sofie. Whilst at the 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 59 
 
 dazzling court of Dresden he met and loved Sophie 
 Magdalena of Brandenburg Kulmbach Baireuth. They 
 were married in the castle of Prestsch, near Dresden, 
 on the 7th August 1721. 
 
 The kinor's wedding costume is of a dark brown 
 colour, almost hidden under a close layer of inter- 
 woven silver bouquets and gold embroideries, which 
 must have made it so heavy and stiff that the 
 wearer could scarcely have felt comfortable in it on a 
 hot summer day, and must have made Christian feel 
 that the parade of greatness could at times be burden- 
 some. 
 
 AN ESCRITOIRE 
 (et chatolskab). 
 
 This dates from the year 1735, and is said to have 
 been made by a cabinet-maker named Lehmann, at a 
 cost of 1 000 gold ducats (about £450). This money has 
 been long out of use. The work on the escritoire is con- 
 siderable, and must have tried the skill and patience 
 of the maker during many years. All the drawers, 
 for instance, are entirely of rosewood and gold, plate- 
 glass, mother-of-pearl, and ivory ] while the cabinet 
 doors have glass within and without. The three rows 
 of drawers disclosed are inlaid with birds, antelopes, 
 and flowers. If a spring is pressed at the bottom of 
 each side of the interior of the cabinet an edge 
 juts out, that has conceated a row of secret drawers. 
 The lower part of this unique piece of furniture is also 
 a repository for curiosities. When the upper drawer 
 of this, the lower part, is drawn out, we see a harpsi- 
 chord as complete as it could have been made while 
 
60 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 piano-manufacture was yet in its infancy. The tones 
 can still be heard, though their sound may not be 
 very harmonious to the musical ear. 
 
 HIRSCHHOLM GOBLET 
 (hirschholmsbageret). 
 
 This goblet dates from the dazzling days of Sophie 
 Magdalena, when Rosenborg was in its glory. Accord- 
 ing to tradition, the goblet served as a welcome goblet 
 for the feasting at the castle, and went, therefore, by 
 the name of "The Welcome of Hirschholm." It is 
 of silver, about twenty-two inches high, and consists 
 of a bowl resting on the head and one arm of a boy. 
 The bowl forms a resting-place for six highly-gilt 
 silver beakers, each beaker being marked with the 
 cone of the pine-tree, and the arms of the city of 
 Augsburg, which implies it was made there. Augs- 
 burg was at that time famous for its embossed 
 silver-work. 
 
 Through this queen's influence a reign of religious 
 persecution was introduced into the country, and 
 stocks erected without the walls for those who 
 offended against the royal ordinances for public 
 worship. Note some ivory. A great deal of it has 
 been sculptured by Magnus Berg (1666-1739). 
 
 FREDERIK V.— 1746-1767. 
 
 Frederik and his Queen Louise, daughter of George 
 IL of England, possessed that treasure more precious 
 than rubies — the love of their subjects. 
 
 The king's wedding-dress is so complete that not 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 61 
 
 even the stockings are wanting. There is part of 
 another dress which the king wore whilst inspecting 
 the working of a new cannon, which exploded, and 
 nearly blew up the king and two of his subjects. 
 Instead of being angry, however, with the unhappy 
 inventor, the king tried to console him by promises of 
 once more attending his practices ; and to the pupil 
 who became a cripple he gave a pension for life, and 
 to his five sisters after him. He was called Johan 
 Magnus Kruse. The name of the other who perished 
 I do not know. The coat the king had on is made of 
 scarlet cloth, with plaited skirts, large cuffs, and 
 pouch pockets on the sides, adorned with a trimming 
 of broad gold lace on the seams, pockets, cuffs, and 
 folds of the skirt. 
 
 Frederik married for his second wife Juliane, 
 daughter of the Duke of Brunswick. 
 
 CHRISTIAN VIL— 1766-1808. 
 
 The sight of his wedding costume recalls happier 
 days, and is about the last of the old style. It is 
 entirely of silver tissue, richly decorated with flowers, 
 garlands of spangles, and gold foliage. The em- 
 broidery on the waistcoat and cuffs consists of lines 
 crossing one another, with a small ornament of each 
 square, all of gold. 
 
 CHRISTIAN VII.—GALA SWORD 
 
 (galakaarde). 
 
 It is thought to have made up part of the wedding 
 suit, and is of great splendour, having a gold hilt, 
 
62 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 decorated with a quantity of large and small diamonds, 
 that are introduced on a dull ground as flowers, which 
 form garlands. 
 
 Queen Caroline Matilda's Writing-Table 
 
 (dRONNING CAROLINE MATILDA'S SKRIVEBORD). 
 
 The sight of this writing-table awakens many sad 
 thoughts; beside it is the chair, where the then 
 happy young queen used to sit — confiding the dearest 
 thoughts of her heart to paper. Both pieces of 
 furniture are of gilded wood, dating from the end of 
 the rococo period. The chair has an embroidered seat 
 and back, and the table a dark grey marble slab and 
 a leaf that may be let down and pulled out, by which 
 a simple desk appears, consisting of the leaf, three 
 drawers, and three compartments for paper, etc. — that 
 is the whole. They were saved from the fire at 
 Frederiksborg, and stand here as a souvenir of blighted 
 hopes and a short-lived life. 
 
 Queen Victoria in her youth is said to have borne 
 a great likeness to this princess, except in having 
 darker hair and a brighter fate. Caroline Matilda 
 was but sweet sixteen when she left her home and 
 came a bride to Copenhagen ] and, alas, the year had 
 not turned its wheels many times before public favour 
 fell away, for it is a sensitive plant, like the thistle- 
 down — 
 
 " Far and wide it flies." 
 
 Rumour, says Virgil, is the youngest daughter of 
 Earth, and John Newton has very aptly compared it 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 63 
 
 with pin-making, for there is usually some truth, 
 which he calls the wire, as it passes from hand to 
 hand ; one gives it a polish, others make and put on 
 the head, and at last the pin is completed. 
 
 *' Oh, me ! a quick and eager ear 
 Caught up the little meaning sound ; 
 Another voice has breathed it clear, 
 And so it wandered round 
 From ear to lip, from lip to ear, 
 Until it reached a gentle heart, 
 And that — it broke." 
 
 An old story — the vows of unchangeable fidelity — 
 had proved empty air, and the feeble-minded husband, 
 knowing neither how to keep or defend the unfortunate 
 woman who had linked her fate with his, was early 
 induced to believe in the charge of treason and 
 disloyalty brought against her through the intrigues 
 of the Queen-Dowager. 
 
 ** For man is fire, and woman is tow, 
 And the somebody comes and begins to blow.'* 
 
 Our Princess was included in the charge of Leze- 
 Majesty, on which Struensee (the then Court Physician 
 and Prime Minister) with his friend Brandt, were 
 convicted and broken on the wheel, and the Princess 
 sent a prisoner to the fortress of Kronborg, just a few 
 days before the death of her mother. Two years 
 later the great Reaper gathered to himself the hardly- 
 opened flower which man had thrown away. It was 
 on the iOth May 1774 she died in Hanover, whence 
 she had been removed by orders of her brother, 
 George III., who had sent a squadron to convey her 
 
64 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 from Kronborg. Seldom has the fickleness of human 
 fortune been more strikingly illustrated than in the 
 case of the Princess Caroline Matilda of England, and 
 Queen of Denmark. Her descent was rapid, like that 
 of a spent projectile — perhaps mercifully so. Since 
 then history has not only cleared her name but 
 prefers to remember Christian YII, in the early 
 years of his reign, before increasing debility of mind 
 rendered him a passive instrument in the hands of 
 others. 
 
 CHRISTIAN VIIL— 1839-1848. 
 
 This king was half-brother of Christian VII., and 
 is chiefly remarkable as presenting the first instance 
 of a break in the descent from father to son, that had 
 lasted for more than three hundred years. 
 
 FREDERIK YII.— 1848-1863. 
 
 With this king the direct male line of the House of 
 Oldenborg became extinct. He was the sixteenth 
 king of that line, and died November 15th, 1863. 
 By a treaty, signed in London on May 8th, 1852, by 
 the European powers, the succession to the crown was 
 made over to Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein- 
 Sonderburg Gliicksburg, father of our Princess 
 Alexandra of Wales. 
 
 MIRROR ROOM 
 
 (SPEIL VARELSET) 
 
 Stands a reminiscence of a monarch's freak. Here 
 you may survey yourself to your heart's content, 
 
SECOND B AMBLE, 65 
 
 in either ceiling, floor, or walls, as all will reflect your 
 august person. The Czar Paul is said to have spent 
 hours walking to and fro in full uniform in his 
 Mirror Room — a strange freak for the ugliest man 
 in Europe. 
 
 KNIGHTS' HALL 
 
 (riddersalen). • 
 
 This is a large room on the upper floor, somewhere 
 over a hundred and fifty feet long, and over a hundred 
 broad. The present form and appearance dates from 
 the time of Frederik lY. The chief ornaments in the 
 ceiling are four reliefs, representing important acts of 
 government under that king — namely, Abolition of 
 Villanage^ 1699; the Institution of the Land Militia, 
 1701 ; the Institution of the Dragoons, 1702; and the 
 Eiirolment of the Sailors, 1704. 
 
 The twelve tapestries on the walls are woven after 
 cartoons drawn by the painter, Peder Andersen, and 
 represent subjects from the Scandinavian War; and 
 all the conspicuous figures are portraits of persons 
 who took part in the wars. 
 
 At one end of the room hangs velvet drapery, and 
 in front 
 
 THE DANISH KING'S CORONATION CHAIR 
 
 (de danske kongers kroningsstol). 
 
 Also that of the queen's. They are not quite alike, 
 the king's having been made by order of Frederik III., 
 who only thought of his successor, whose consort, 
 Charlotte Amalie, would be excluded from taking 
 
66 SECOND B AMBLE, 
 
 part in the coronation in consequence of having pro- 
 fessed the Keformed Religion. The king's chair 
 consists of narwhals' teeth, which, at the time 
 the chair was made, had a value of their own in 
 silver, and was made at Augsburg, together with the 
 three silver-lions, " Denmark's escutcheon," 
 fronting the throne. The twelve silver pedestals 
 arranged down the room are for candlesticks to rest 
 on, and are all in use at coronations and other 
 solemn or great occasions. 
 
 THE ROYAL BAPTISMAL FONT 
 
 (den kongelige dobefont). 
 
 Is also kept in the Knights' Hall, and dates 
 from 1720. It has a height of one ell and twelve 
 inches (three feet), while the diameter of the basin, 
 including border, measures one ell and nine inches 
 (two and three quarter feet). The whole is of silver, 
 weighing 180 ounces, and richly gilded. On the 
 bottom of the basin is displayed the Baptism of 
 Christ by John in the River Jordan. The font was 
 first used at the baptism of Frederik Y., who was 
 born March 1723. At christenings another basin is 
 placed within the font, and, when not in use, is kept 
 with the candlesticks among the regalia, which are 
 all of gold, executed in embossed work. 
 
 Leading from the Knights' Hall are three turret 
 chambers, each holding a rare and valuable collection. 
 The one containing the so-called younger regalia, 
 which consists of the closed crown, the sceptre, 
 and the globe, made by a goldsmith called Kasper 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 67 
 
 Herback (Kunst Kasper), is not open to visitors. 
 In the other two rooms are collections of porcelain 
 and glass of every variety, from the opal, amethyst, 
 emerald, and sapphire. Note particularly the filigree 
 or thread-glass, from the once famous glass factory 
 on the island of Murano, near Venice. They date 
 from the 17th century, and were procured by Frederik 
 IV. during his sojourn there. 
 
 An English catalogue, at much greater length than 
 this, and beautifully illustrated, can be had at the 
 entrance, and should be purchased to look over at 
 home. The guides who show visitors over the 
 palace all speak English. 
 
 *^* Tickets — 6 kroners for 12 persons, to be had the day before 
 from the Inspector at the Palace. Shown daily. 
 
 Rosenborg Garden {Have\ also called the 
 
 KING'S GARDEN 
 
 (kongen's have). 
 
 This garden has two entrances, one from Kron- 
 prindsessegade and the other from Ostervold. The 
 grounds are surrounded by a high iron railing, 
 divided into sections by thirteen stone pavilions, 
 which are let out as shops. Within the grounds 
 are avenues of magnificent trees, such as are seldom 
 seen in the heart of a city. Under their agreeable 
 shades the children disport themselves in such num- 
 bers that it has come to be styled **The Kindergarten" 
 (Bornehave) of Copenhagen. 
 
 Amongst the numerous handsome monuments that 
 
68 SECOND RAMBLE, 
 
 adorn the grounds, we will first look at the children's 
 story-teller — 
 
 Hans Christian Andersen, f / 
 
 He stands prominent as that of a writer whose 
 works have become the heritage of the whole civilised 
 world, and who, in his tales, struck a new vein of 
 literature, which, although repeatedly followed, has not 
 yet been reached by others. The monument was 
 modelled by Saabye, and cast in bronze by Holm. 
 Andersen is represented just as I think he should 
 be — that is, in the act of relating one of his own tales 
 to a group of eager young listeners. The statue is 
 six feet ten inches, and rests on a polished block of 
 granite ornamented|with subjects in bas-relief, illustra- 
 ting some of his tales. Can you remember the fable of 
 the stork arriving with a new-born child from the 
 secret lake of the Well of Life It Well, that is one 
 of the subjects, and above is written, ** In Memory of 
 the Fairy Tale- Writer.'' 
 
 Andersen was born at Odense, 2nd April 1805, 
 and died in Copenhagen, August 1875. He rests in 
 the cemetery near the philologer, Rasmus Rask. 
 
 The monument was raised by voluntary contribu- 
 tion to the amount of 27,000 kroner (equal to 
 £1500). 
 
 Near the castle is A Lion Struggling with a Horse, 
 which Christian IV. caused to be cast in bronze, after 
 the antique, and a statue of the same king, modelled 
 by Thorvaldsen. 
 
 The Hercules Pavilion, constructed 1773, by 
 Harsdorf, receives its name from a group near 
 
 A 
 
SECOND RAMBLE, 69 
 
 the pavilion representing the contest of Hercules 
 with the Nemean lion, and its slaughter with his own 
 hands — one of the twelve feats of strength and 
 courage Hercules is said to have successfully achieved. 
 In two niches at the sides are statues of Orpheus, 
 the poet, musician, and philosopher, whose name is 
 prominent in the early legends of Greece, and that of 
 his wife, Eurydice, who died from the bite of a 
 serpent. According to one account, Orpheus himself 
 was torn to pieces by the women of Thrace, for his 
 excessive sorrow at the death of his wife. These, 
 with the two marble medallions, were made V>y John 
 Barrata, at Florence. 
 
 The once-beautiful flower gardens have been turned 
 into a place for drilling soldiers, and the splendid 
 laurel house into ugly barracks. 
 
 We leave the garden of Rosenborg by the chief 
 entrance, Kronprindsessegade, and go to the left. At 
 the corner of the Dronningens Tvargade is a Roman 
 Catholic Chapel in Gothic style, built 1879. The altar 
 picture is painted by Baumeister. It is open all day. 
 We continue now to the left to the Solvgade, then take 
 the Bigensgade to the right. Further along this 
 street is the Children's Hospital, which was 
 erected by free donations. If we take now the next 
 street to the right, Moriansgade, then we see 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CHURCH. 
 
 This church is built in Gothic-Byzantic style, and 
 designed by the architect Gundtzmann. The exterior 
 as well as the interior make an agreeable impression. 
 On the altar is an inscription — " Jesus says, I am the 
 
70 SECOND RAMBLE. 
 
 Life and the Truth,*' and a picture representing 
 ** The Last Supper." The latter was formerly in the 
 Palace Chapel at Frederiksberg. 
 
 From here we go to the right, to the Borger- 
 gade ; follow it up until the fourth opening to the 
 right, the Klerkegade. In doing so we come to the 
 
 FREEMASONS' LODGE. 
 If we continue further to the right, through the 
 Borgergade, we come back again through the lower 
 part of the Gothersgade, to the King's New- 
 market, or Kongens Njrtorv, 
 
THIRD RAMBLE. 
 
 We will begin to-day by taking the Ostergade from 
 the King's Newmarket. This is by far the liveliest 
 street in the whole town. Here people show oflf 
 their new dresses, bow to their friends, cut their 
 enemies, and chatter small talk. The same thing, no 
 doubt, occurred in the Appian Way, the fashionable 
 street in Imperial Rome. History repeats itself, and 
 every city is bound by all the laws of civilisation to 
 have one special street wherein the votaries of fashion 
 can congregate. Picturesque groups, indeed, are those 
 which fill it, and as heterogeneous as the army of 
 Hannibal. Many a vaunted landscape or belauded 
 museum is less remunerative, I feel, then a stroll 
 down the Ostergade. You feel prepared for any 
 marvel of the old world, and would hardly start at 
 hearing Andersen's storks criticising the libellous 
 ditty carolled in their dishonour by the naughty boys 
 of the Ostergade, or at seeing Fru Morgana flitting 
 past in her dazzling chariot, and rosy-cheeked 
 Hjalmar floating seaward in his toy bark, crunching 
 the endless sticks of enchanted barley-sugar. To the 
 left is a well-known cigar-shop, which devotees to the 
 fragrant weed would do well to enter and purchase 
 the day's supply. 
 
72 THIRD RAMBLE, 
 
 No. 13 is the well-known Cellar, with splendid 
 Restaurant and Beer-room. The second street from 
 \ here leads away to 
 
 Nicolai Tower. It is in a square of the same 
 name, surrounded by butchers' shops, and is the 
 remains of the beautiful Nicolai Church, that was 
 burnt down on 5th June 1795. The tower, an 
 imposing structure, is now used as the head-quarters 
 of the fire brigade of Copenhagen ; from its battle- 
 ments are given time-signals at one o'clock, which is 
 done by the falling of a ball. From the summit 
 a good view of the city, which unfortunately lies on 
 a very flat plain, is afforded to the eye. 
 
 At the end of the Ostergade we turn into the 
 Store Kjobmagergade. At the corner of the 
 first street to the left, along here, we see the Post \ 
 Office^ A little further along are the Public 
 Baths. Beside these note some trees belonging to 
 
 TRINITY CHURCHYARD. y 
 
 Under these sleep, after life's fitful fever, the poets 
 Johann Hermann Wessel and Johannes Ewald. 
 The former it was who, in his mock tragedy, *' Love 
 Without Stockings," gave a decisive blow to the 
 affected taste for stilted heroics and the classical 
 unities. The latter, in " Rolf Krage," gave Denmark 
 her first tragedy, and in his well-known song, in 
 English by Longfellow — " King Christian stood by the 
 Lofty Mast " — supplied words for her national anthem. 
 
 The two graves are close together, and ornamented 
 with a beautiful monument designed by Evers. It 
 
THIRD RAMBLE. 73 
 
 consists of a square pedestal, on which two allegorical 
 figures are seated representing Mirth and Sorrow. 
 On the upper part are the two heads of the poets. 
 The inscription runs thus : — Here lies the dust of the 
 poets, Wessel and Ewald, who expressed in a vivid 
 manner mirth and sorrow to the joy of the people. 
 To the left, Johann Hermann Wessel, born in 
 Westby, on the Christiania Fjord, the 6th of October 
 1742 ; died in Copenhagen, the 29th of December 
 1785. 
 
 ** Tears melted into smiles when Wessel's humour flowed, 
 But joy and smiles in sorrow vanished at his death." 
 
 To the right, Johannes Ewald, born in Copenhagen, 
 the 18th of November 1743 ; died in Copenhagen, the 
 17th March 1781. **The head quiet and serious like 
 the church, the feet carried misery in the narrow 
 town. Here sacred strength and consolation, there 
 trouble and need. Thou didst stand in life as thou 
 didst lie in death.'* — Oehlenschlager. 
 
 TEINITY CHURCH ^> 
 
 (trinitatis kirke), 
 
 Designed by the Swiss architect, Scheffel, and 
 intended by Christian IV. as a church for the 
 university students. Their library was deposited in 
 its lofts and galleries, whilst the 
 
 ROUND TOWER //"^ 
 
 (runde taarn) 
 W^as to serve as an astronomical observatory. The 
 
Y 
 
 74 THIRD RAMBLE, 
 
 tower was built after a design of the Danish 
 astronomer, Langberg (Longomontanus), and has a 
 height of 110 feet, so that its summit forms a 
 good vantage-point for obtaining a general view of 
 Copenhagen. At our feet, 
 
 ** Traced like a map the landscape lies." 
 
 The broad, gradually-ascending walk leading to 
 the top of the tower leaves us little reason to 
 doubt the truth of the popularly accredited tale of 
 Peter the Great, when visiting Copenhagen in 1716, 
 having ridden up on horseback, while the Empress 
 Catherine made the ascent in a carriage drawn by 
 four horses. 
 
 Over the entrance to the Tower is the following 
 quaint Latin inscription : — " Doctrinam et Justitiam 
 dirige Jehovah in corde Coronati Regis Christian 
 Quarto, 1642." (May the Lord direct with know- 
 ledge and justice the heart of King Christian IV., 
 1642.) 
 
 The outer walls are plain and heavy in appear- 
 ance compared with the grace and lightness of the 
 Leaning Tower at Pisa. 
 
 The Tower may be visited every Wednesday and 
 Saturday from 12 to 1 (gratis) ; and every day at 
 almost any hour, on payment of 10 ore per person. 
 There is also a ladies' waiting-rqom near the entrance. 
 
 Let us now return to the Kjobmagergade till we 
 come to the Krystalgade, wnere we see at our right 
 the Synagogue, which was built in 1833, by 
 Professor Helsch, in Egyptian style. Further to 
 the left, at the same corner of the Fiolstrade, is 
 
THIRD RAMBLE. 75 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY. 
 
 This handsome building was founded by Christian I. 
 in 1479. It is built in the Gothic style, by Professor 
 Mailing. A broad staircase leads to the entrance 
 through which one comes into the hall. Here are 
 two marble statues by Bissen — Minerva and Apollo. 
 Opposite the entrance is the fete room. There are 
 several beautiful pictures here. One represents The 
 Consecration of the University in the Frue Kirke 
 on 1st June 1479, and is painted by Marstrand. The 
 second, on the same wall, is Hans Tausen (the Danish 
 Reformer) protecting the Roman Catholic bishop, 
 Joachim Ronnow, from the outrages of the citizens of 
 Copenhagen ; it is painted by Carl Bloch. Another 
 picture, also by Bloch, represents Tycho Brahe 
 receiving James 'V/ of Scotland in his Palace, Uran- 
 ienborg, called the Castle of Urania, on the island of 
 Hveen. Hansen and Hilker have also chosen local 
 incidents for their admirable frescoes. 
 
 LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 Stands at the corner of Krystalgade and Lille 
 Fiolstrade. It was erected after a plan of the 
 architect Herholdt, and consists of two different parts, 
 a smaller one nearest the square of Our Lady's Church. 
 The walls are of red bricks, with black and yellow 
 stones by way of ornament. The library of the 
 University possesses more than 200,000 volumes and 
 manuscripts. The library of Classen, established 
 by the brothers Joh., Fr., and Peter H. Classen, con- 
 sists of almost 36,000 volumes, for the most part in 
 mathematics, natural history and physics, geography 
 
76 THIRD RAMBLE. 
 
 and technical sciences, and is annually increased by a 
 sum destined for that purpose by Fr. Classen. 
 
 The Library is open daily from 11 till 2 o'clock for 
 books, and the reading-room from 11 till 3 o'clock. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM 
 
 In the building with the University, near the Church 
 of Our Lady. 
 
 The building is composed of four wings, with three 
 stories in the form of balconies, constructed after a 
 design by Professor Chr. Hansen. The hall is 
 lighted by a glass roof, and in it stand most of the 
 large skeletons. In the rooms distributed over the 
 three stories are the smaller zoological collections, of 
 which I intend mentioning only a few. 
 
 ROOM I. 
 
 Has a small shell, especially deserving notice, since it 
 is supposed that the world contains only three such 
 specimens. The British Museum, I was told, offered 
 £200 for this one. The name is Conus Gloria Maris. 
 Amongst the oysters are some of extraordinary 
 dimensions. Though their breadth will hardly, like 
 Captain Nemo's famous oyster, measure two and a 
 half yards, yet to eat a few dozens would doubtless 
 tax the stomach of a Gragantua. 
 
 ROOM III. 
 
 Here are some fishes, preserved in bottles, exactly 
 like a human being, called ** Somunken " (Monk of 
 the Sea). 
 
THIRD RAMBLE, 77 
 
 ROOM VI. 
 
 Contains a varied assortment of corals. 
 
 ROOMS X. AND XI. 
 
 Searhorses. 
 
 The collection of insects, especially butterflies, are 
 large and varied, the hues of some of these latter 
 shading away in all colours of the rainbow. 
 
 An outer building is reserved for specimens of the 
 whale species. A word about the whale. Many 
 people think that because the whale has no ears, nor 
 funnel-shaped gristle for catching sounds like donkeys 
 and men, they cannot hear ; but the whale hears with 
 his nose. Man and the suck-giving animals have a 
 cavity at the back of the mouth into which the wind- 
 pipe gullet and nose passage open. There are two 
 eustachian tubes leading to the middle chamber of 
 each ear by which we hear the sound of our own 
 voices, whether the mouth be open or shut. In the 
 whale it is somewhat different. For breathing pur- 
 poses the whale's nostrils, or " blow-holes," not being 
 adapted for smelling, are placed on the top of the 
 head ; so when that part comes above the surface, and 
 the nostrils are in breathing action, the wide 
 eustachian tube of the whale opens, and the same 
 passage that admits air to his lungs admits at the 
 same time sound to his ears. 
 
 Open every Sunday and Wednesday from 12 till 
 2 P.M. Admission free. 
 
 Near the University, at the corner of the St. Peter- 
 strade, is the St. Pet|:i-Kirke, a pretty Gothic 
 church. It is a German congregational church. 
 
78 THIRD RAMBLE. 
 
 The high, beautiful tower is a great ornament to the 
 church j it is shown by the *' Overgraver " (verger), 
 who lives at No. 9 St. Peterstrade, by paying two 
 kroners. A few steps further in the Norregade, 
 No. 39, is the Folketheater. It contains 1400 seats, 
 and is used mostly for the representations of Parisian 
 comedies and operettas. If we return to the St. 
 Peterstrade, we see to the left the Walkendorfske 
 College for students, also the Polytechnical 
 Institution. We now continue our road in the 
 Norregade, passing the bishop's residence, and then 
 we stand on the Frueplads. 
 
 This pretty square is bounded on the left by the 
 University and its library, on the north by the 
 Metropolitan School, on the east by Our Lady's 
 Church (Vor Frue Kirke), and south by the Bishop's 
 Seat (Bispegaarden). That part of the square which 
 is separated from the other is intended for a Pantheon 
 for Danish University teachers and artists ; but up 
 to the present time there are only four monuments — 
 viz., busts of the botanist, J. F. Schouw (1852) ; 
 the composer, C. Weyse (1842); the theologian^ 
 Professor H. N. Clausen (1877) ; and the theologian, 
 Bishop Mynster (1854). Close to the University, at 
 the corner of the Fiolstrade, is 
 
 OUR LADY'S CHURCH / 
 
 (vOR FRUE kirke). 
 
 This, the oldest and best endowed church in Copen- 
 hagen, was founded about the twelfth century ; 
 and here from that period till the establishment 
 
THIRD RAMBLE, 79 
 
 of absolute sovereignty in 1660 the coronations of the 
 successive kings and queens took place in it. Here our 
 unfortunate princess, Caroline Matilda, was married 
 in the autumn of 1766 to Christian VII. She was 
 driven in an elegant new state carriage, made for the 
 occasion, drawn by eight white stallions. I wonder, 
 had she no misgivings that her happiness was too 
 bright to last, or did she not read forebodings of 
 future sorrow in the cloudy, autumnal sky and 
 withered leaves, as she went to meet her fate ] 
 Lockhart beautifully says of Sir Walter Scott, *'we 
 hear the sound of the muffled drum." 
 
 " Gather the rosebuds while ye may — 
 Old Time is still a-ftying, 
 And that same flower that blooms to-day, 
 To-morrow may be dying." 
 
 The building was several times destroyed by fire, and 
 has now no particular architectural beauty — thanks 
 to Nelson's bombs in 1807, they did their work well. 
 Since then the church has been rebuilt by Hansen, 
 in a style similar to that of the Basilica. At the 
 entrance we see ** Moses, with the Tables of the 
 Law," by Bissen ; " David," by Jerichau (school of 
 Thorvaldsen), the latter Jerichau carried off the palm 
 from our own Royal Academy with his group 
 representing " Adam and Eve after the Fall." The 
 numerous figures over the doorway, portraying 
 " John the Baptist preaching in the Desert," are by 
 Thorvaldsen; also the "Entry of Christ into Jerusalem" 
 — the former modelled 1821-22 at Rome, the latter 
 1839-40 in Denmark. 
 
so TRIED RAMBLE, 
 
 Now we enter the church, which looks at first some- 
 what cold till you have seen a *' masterpiece " — 
 Thorvaldsen's celebrated "Christ" — then the whole 
 becomes at once invested with a solemn grandeur. 
 The sight of St. Peter's at Rome must always inspire 
 the beholders with a feeling of awe, but somehow 
 there is a want of the fitness of things. The roughly- 
 cut grim statue of St. Peter is neither awe-inspiring 
 nor in harmony. Tradition says it was originally an 
 old Pagan god, and traces it back to Capitoline 
 Jupiter. If, indeed, it is the Galilean fisherman 
 crucified head downwards by old Rome, he must be 
 rather astonished at new Pome kissing his very 
 statue's toes away ! 
 
 Here Christ stands at the head of His own Church 
 with outstretched arms, welcoming us, in a triumph 
 of majestic beauty, to the altar. It surpasses all the 
 works I have ever seen in sculpture in its appeal to 
 human sympathies. Christ seems in the very act of 
 delivering His own loving invitation, *' Come unto 
 Me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I 
 *will give you rest." I know I am no judge of art, 
 but Thorvaldsen, all must allow, was great ; — the 
 clue and the sword were his, and he has wielded them 
 so well that the world is not likely to let his name 
 die. 
 
 The inscription on the wall above Our Saviour 
 reads thus: "This is My beloved Son; hear Him." 
 The twelve Apostles are ranged on either side of the 
 nave leading to the central figure, and give complete- 
 ness to the whole. Note the high hero-bearing of 
 the impetuous Peter — the stately solemnity that 
 
THIRD RAMBLE, 81 
 
 clothes the massive forehead of James the Proto- 
 Martyr — the flowing hair and sweet serene face of the 
 beloved disciple. Judas Iscariot is not represented. 
 St. Paul has been sculptured by Thorvaldsen himself, 
 the other statues were modelled by him, and made by 
 his pupils. 
 
 The beautiful Baptismal Font is in the form of a 
 shell uplifted by a kneeling angel, at the chancel 
 steps. The rotunda over the altar is decorated with 
 figures in plaster, representing the walk of the Saviour 
 to Golgotha. Over the entrance to what was the con- 
 fessional there are bas-reliefs of '*The Baptism," and 
 *' The Lord's Supper," and over the alms-boxes reliefs 
 representing " Caritas " and " The Guardian Angel." 
 In the corridors, monuments in marble of deceased 
 bishops and ministers of the church. 
 
 The interior of the church open every day from 9 
 till 11 o'clock (drink-money, 25 ore). The view from 
 the tower of Frue Kirke is similar to that from the 
 Round Tower, 25 ore, 1 kr. 
 
 THE TOWN HALL / 
 
 (raadhuset) 
 
 "Was built during the reign of Christian YIL, near 
 the Market, after a design of the architect Hansen. 
 The foundation-stone was laid by the Crown Prince 
 Freder ik (late Frederik YL), on 28th September 
 1805, but the building was not finished until 1815. 
 The principal entrance is in Nytorv (New Square), 
 where may be read the first words of the Jutish law 
 of 1 240 : " Med Lov skal man Land bygge," — literally, 
 
 6 
 
82 THIRD RAMBLE. 
 
 '* Land is to be built by Law " (Justitia regnorum 
 fundamentuin). 
 
 If we continue along the Norregade to the left, 
 we come to the Gammeltorv (Old Market), in which 
 there is a pretty fountain. On great occasions it 
 throws out golden apples, to the great amusement of 
 the young folks. The bronze statue in the centre 
 represents " Benevolence." We return now through 
 the Nygade to the 
 
 HOLY GHOST CHURCH f 
 
 (helligaands kirken), 
 
 Which stands at the corner of Vimmelskaftet. 
 It was burnt down in the great fire of 1728, then 
 rebuilt in the same style — viz.. Renaissance. The 
 tower is 200 feet high. Hans Tausen, the Danish 
 reformer, defended his doctrines in this church ; and 
 here is a painting of another reformer, Luther, by 
 Adam Miiller, in which he is depicted as appearing 
 before the great German Council at Worms, April, 
 152L Charles V. of Spain, who had just been 
 crowned German Emperor, is here, sitting at his 
 first Germanic Diet, surrounded by an august 
 assembly, whilst before them stands Luther, looking 
 so calm and composed, as though he felt the fiat 
 had gone forth, " Touch not Mine anointed, and do 
 My prophet no harm." Luther is robed in a monk's 
 dress, clasping in his right hand the Bible, that 
 Holy Book of which Sir Walter Scott writes — 
 
 ** Better had they ne'er been born, 
 Who read to doubt, or read to scorij." 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE, 
 
 We start at the right-hand side of the King's 
 Newmarket (Kongens-Nytorv), at the corner of 
 the Lille Kongensgade, pass the Koyal Theatre, and 
 continue in a S.E. direction till we come to the 
 Holmens Canal. In the middle of this street is a 
 square where stands 
 
 NIELS JUEUS MONUMENT, 
 
 // 
 
 Erected to commemorate the 200th anniversary 
 of his great battle at Kjoge Bay, July 1, 1679, 
 and built by Professor Ch. Stein. It is of bronze, 
 and is 12 feet high without the pedestal. On the 
 front is the name of the hero, underneath his 
 coat-of-arms, ornamented with the Elephant Order. 
 The right side is decorated with Denmark's, and the 
 left side with Norway's coat-of-arms. At the back 
 weapons and anchors are placed. 14,000 lbs. of 
 metal taken from the cannons, found nearly 200 years 
 after the battle at the bottom of the sea, were used 
 in the making of the statue. Sufficient for the whole 
 expenditure was raised by voluntary subscriptions on 
 the part of the nation. Now we are passing- the 
 
84 FOURTH RAMBLE. 
 
 Students' Union (Studenterforeningen). Then 
 comes the King of Denmark Hotel and the new 
 
 NATIONAL BANK. 1/ 
 
 The National Bank is a very fine building 
 that has been erected by the Professor Herholdt 
 in the course of the years 1866-69. Situated 
 at Holmens Canal, it belongs to the great assem- 
 blage of considerable buildings that are suc- 
 cessively occupying the territory of Gammelholm. 
 It is built of granite and bricks, and is in every 
 respect fire-proof, being at the same time very con- 
 veniently fitted up, with large and beautiful localities. 
 The time for business is from 10 to 3. 
 
 A little further, still keeping to the left, and we 
 are at 
 
 HOLMENS CHURCH (KIRKE). 
 
 (ox HOLMENS CANAL). 
 
 This was originally a chapel for the dockyard men, 
 raised to the dignity of a Parish Church by Christian 
 lY. in 1642, and thoroughly restored 1872. It is, 
 I think, the busiest of all the churches in Copen- 
 hagen so far as christenings, weddings, and funerals 
 are concerned. 
 
 The most remarkable feature is the Mortuary 
 Chapel, where the dead of the parish rest till the 
 funeral takes place. Within this dismal building 
 stand two sarcophagi, enclosing the remains of Den- 
 mark's two great sea-heroes, Niels Juel and Peder 
 Vessel, the latter better known by the name of 
 Tordenskjold. 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE. 85 
 
 '* Niels Juel gave heed to the tempest's roar — 
 
 * Kow is the hour ! ' 
 He hoisted his blood-red flag once more, 
 And smote upon the foe full sore, 
 And shouted loud through the tempest's roar, 
 
 ' Now is the hour ! ' 
 Fly ! (Should they for shelter fly ?) 
 Of Denmark's Juel who can defy 
 
 The power ? 
 
 North Sea ! a glimpse of vessel rent 
 
 Thy murky sky ! 
 Then champions to thine arms were sent ; 
 Terror and death glared where he went ; 
 From the waves was heard a wail that rent 
 
 Thy murky sky ! 
 From Denmark thundered Tordenskjold, 
 * Let each to Heaven commend his soul. 
 
 And fly ! ' " 
 
 On the monument of Niels Juel, who died in 1697, 
 are eight bas-reliefs representing the principal events 
 connected with his brilliant exploits in the Swedish 
 wars. Tordenskjold fell in a duel in his twenty- 
 ninth year, 1720. The only epitaph his black marble 
 sarcophagus bears are the words '* Dynekilen," 
 "Marstrand," and " Elf sborg," which three names 
 recall the daring deeds that raised the sailor boy, 
 Peder Vessel, to the rank of an admiral, and under 
 the name of Tordenskjold, *' Thunder-Shield," made 
 him a terror to the enemy, and a veritable shield to 
 his country. Tordenskjold was born at Trondhjem, 
 October 28th, 1691. When only nineteen years of 
 age he commanded a man-of-war, Ormen. Soon after 
 he took the command of the frigate, Lovendals Galej. 
 In 1718 he was appointed rear-admiral, and created a 
 
86 FOURTH RAMBLE. 
 
 knight, under the name of Tordenskjold. In 1719 
 peace was concluded with Sweden, and Tordenskjold, 
 wishing to travel, went south ; but he did not get 
 any further than Hanover, where he met the Swedish 
 Colonel Stahl, " who provoked a quarrel with Tor- 
 denskjold. A duel ensued, in which the latter was 
 killed in his twenty-ninth year — an untimely death 
 for his country, for what fruit might not have been 
 expected from the golden autumn of such a mani 
 Ours is the best method of redressing wrongs — the 
 Law Court. One of the most memorable duels that 
 occurred within our own shores was the "Waiting 
 Duel," and most worthy of imitation by other 
 duellists. This is the record of it — 
 
 " Earl Chatham, with his sword drawn, 
 Stood waiting for Sir Richard Strachan ; 
 Sir Richard, longing to be at him, 
 Stood waiting for the Earl of Chatham." 
 
 Amongst the objects of interest most worthy of 
 notfe in the church is a monument to Frue Falsen, by 
 Thorvaldsen, and another to the Hoppe family, by 
 his master, Wiedewelt. On the altar are two massive 
 silver candlesticks (a gift from the Countess Danner, 
 left-handed wife of Frederik VII.). She did much to 
 promote the welfare of the working classes from which 
 she sprung. Such marriages, however, have not been 
 common with us since the days of our merry monarch, 
 Charles II. 
 
 For permission to see the church, apply to the 
 sexton (graver), Nielsen, Admiralsgade, No. 16. 
 
 To the left of the church there is a newly-erected 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE. 87 
 
 Bronze Statue, Tordenskjolds, by Bissen, jun. We 
 now cross the new Hoi mens Bro (bridge), and then 
 take the road to the left. Note the 
 
 EXCHANGE {y^ 
 
 C' BORSEN ^'). 
 
 There are many splendid buildings in Copenhagen, 
 but the most remarkable is that sensitive barometer 
 of public opinion, the Stock Exchange, near Holmens 
 Canal. It was founded by Christian IV., 1624, to 
 provide shops for the Christiansborg district. The 
 style of building is after the Dutch Renaissance, with 
 a tower of 140 feet, which is formed by the entwined 
 tails of four dragons turning their heads downw^ards 
 in the direction of the four corners of the w^orld. The 
 building is very long and narrow, but in proportion 
 to the length, and decorated with multitudes of 
 figures. Both entrances have magnificent porches, 
 but that towards Slotspladsen has four Tuscan pillars 
 of Italian marble. At this entrance is a hillock 
 planted with trees ; to the left a statue of Mercury, 
 to the right one of Neptune. In the hall of the 
 Exchange is a statue of Christian lY. by Thorvaldsen. 
 In 1853 the building passed by sale to a company of 
 Danish merchants and stockbrokers, who are bound 
 by the State to maintain it in its original form. 
 
 'Change-time, every day 2.30 to 3.30; admission 
 money after 2 o'clock, 20 ore. 
 
 To the right of the Exchange are the Ministerial 
 Buildings, or, as they from former times are called, 
 the Chancery Buildings. They stand opposite to the 
 Exchange, and are composed of a very large principal 
 
88 FOURTH RAMBLE, 
 
 building erected by Frederik lY., whose marble bust 
 is to be seen on the front side, and three buildings 
 later purchased, and formerly belonging to a certain 
 Mr. Lerche. We pass these and follow up the fine 
 new street, Slotsholmsgade, past the iron bridge 
 Knippelsbro. This bridge takes us to a part of the 
 town called Chrlstianshavn. We first take the 
 
 Lille Torvegade till we come to the Strandgade, 
 at the end of which is the Tyske (German) Freder- 
 ikskirke. We now continue along the Torvegade, 
 cross the Bornehusbridge, and follow up the canal 
 to the left as far as St, Annagade, where we see 
 
 OUR SAVIOUR'S CHURCH 
 (VOR "frelsers kirke"). 
 
 V <* Our Saviour*s Church " is conspicuous for its 
 unique external winding-stairs, consisting of 397 
 steps, protected by a balustrade. The church was 
 consecrated in 1696, and stands as another monu- 
 ment of the energetic Christian IV. In 1752 the 
 tower was surmounted with a colossal figure of the 
 Saviour, Who, standing on a globe, bears in His right 
 Hand a banner of victory. At the corners of the 
 square base of the tower are the four Evangelists. 
 Shown to visitors by the sexton, who lives near the 
 church. Twelve persons, 2 kr. 
 
 We turn back in the Torvegade, cross the Market 
 Place, and take the street to the left, Overgaden 
 over Vandet, as far as the fortress. We continue 
 along here to the Langebro, a wooden bridge separ- 
 ating this part from Copenhagen. At the Kongens 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE. 89 
 
 Bryghus (King's Brewery) we turn into the small 
 street to the right, till we come to the Frederiks- 
 holms Canal, where we soon perceive to the rights 
 at the corner of the Ny Vestergade, 
 
 THE PRINCE'S PALACE, 
 
 Erected 1680, by a rich merchant, and bought by 
 Frederik lY. as a dwelling for the Crown Prince 
 Christian. It was afterw^ards rebuilt, and used by 
 later branches of the Royal Family. Now it belongs 
 to the State, and is converted into a Museum, free to 
 the public on certain days, which are stated in the 
 newspapers. This, the so-called 
 
 OLD NORTHERN MUSEUM 
 (de nordiske oldsager), 
 
 Is dedicated to a collection of relics from the stone 
 and bronze ages, and various are the arms and 
 armoury dating from those periods, from the simple 
 knife, axe, and arrows fashioned out of flint, to the 
 equally simple, but more deadly weapons with which 
 science enables man the more readily to slay his 
 brother. Indeed, it is a collection of the greatest 
 possible scientific value, and no other country possesses 
 so complete a series of objects illustrating the con- 
 secutive stages of development reached by its inhabit- 
 ants, in their progress from a savage to a civilised 
 condition. 
 
 The Museum owes its origin, in 1807, to the 
 exertions of Professor Nyerup, and now numbers 
 upwards of 40,000 objects, some of which, either 
 
90 FOURTH B AMBLE. 
 
 from their character or the intrinsic value of the 
 materials and workmanship, have helped to throw 
 important light on ethnological inquiry. 
 
 Under the guidance of such able archseologists as 
 Thomsen, Engelhart, and Worsaa, the Museum has 
 acquired a world-wide reputation, and to them and 
 other Danish savants science is mainly indebted for 
 the idea followed out in this collection of considering 
 such remains in reference to the three distinct periods 
 now familiar to us under the terms of the Stone, 
 Bronze J and Iron Age. 
 
 The Museum is thus divided : — 
 
 I. Stone Age, until 1500 b.c. — Rooms 1 to 3. 
 II. Bronze Age, until 250 after Christ. — Eooms 4 
 and 5. 
 
 III. Iron Age. — Rooms 6 to 9. 
 
 IV. Christian Middle Ages, about 1030-1536. — 
 
 Rooms 10 to 15. 
 V. Modern Times, until about 1665. — Rooms 16 
 and 17. 
 
 Early Danish Age. 
 
 81. — Middle of room. An oak chest from Store 
 Hoi, near Ringkjobing, Jutland^ containing, amongst 
 other things, two carefully-preserved wooden basins, 
 one of which is decorated with Tin Tacks. 
 
 82. — An oak coffin (lid wanting). In it the body 
 of a man, about forty or fifty years of age, a round 
 cap on his head^ a petticoat tied about him, and 
 kept together by a woollen cloak, fastened with a 
 wood pin. The coffin was found under a hill about 
 twenty feet high and about one hundred and twenty 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE, 91 
 
 feet broad, at Borum-Eshoi. At the end of the coffin 
 is a box containing some bronze swords, knives, etc., 
 also found in the top of the same hill 
 
 83. — Middle of room. The lower part of a 
 coffin, containing the body of a young man wrapped 
 in clothes, also found at Borum Eshoi. By his left 
 side lies a scabbard of wood, wherein is a bronze 
 dagger. The comb, made of horn, was discovered 
 under the shoulder, and the round box, made of bark, 
 stood at his head. 
 
 119. — From a grave on Brokser-Mark (field). A 
 large bronze kettle, in which was found, besides 
 bones, a quantity of articles that are often heaped 
 on a funeral pile — viz., swords, knives, scissors, cups 
 of bronze, silver, and glass. 
 
 155. — A peculiar carriage, with bronze mounting 
 and tracing of saints ; a chair belonging to it. The 
 carriage has, doubtless, been used for carrying an 
 idol at religious ceremonies. They were dug up in 
 parts of Dejbjerg Mose (moor bog). 
 
 174. — On either side of the little church of Jellinge, 
 in Jutland, are mounds, telling of the last resting- 
 place of Gorm the Old, and his Queen, Thyra, sur- 
 named '*Dannebod"(the Dane's Ornament), and Harald 
 Blaatand, their son. They are thought to be the last 
 mounds of heathen burial erected in Denmark, and 
 date from the middle of the ninth century. After 
 several researches during the present century, there 
 was found, in 1829, under Thyra's mound, a room 
 built of oak, surrounded by thick clay and stones, 
 
92 FOURTH RAMBLE, 
 
 and covered in with wood and layers of stones, a few 
 articles of value ; but the room had already been dis- 
 covered and ransacked, nor did renewed researches 
 into the mounds in 1861 lead to further discovery. 
 
 ((x) In Thyra's mound was found a silver drinking 
 cup, having an outer ornamentation of animals, 
 besides inside a thick coating of gold. 
 
 (6) A hanging bronze cross, ornamented with gold, 
 found in the earth near the entrance to the room. 
 
 (c) Part of a box. The clasps and hinges from a 
 box made of bronze, ornamented with gold. 
 
 (d) Pieces of silk ; fragments of a glass drinking 
 cup. 
 
 (e) Wood square with coloured pattern (probably 
 the top of a table). 
 
 (y*) Figure of a man ; pieces of carved oak, show- 
 ing profiles ; parts of the beams from the room, besides 
 wooden spades that were found within the mound. 
 
 175. — Some bowl-shaped spangles, found in the 
 mounds or tombs of females ; a large wooden square, 
 held together by iron clasps ; parts of the dress in 
 which the body has been clothed, such as pieces of 
 woollen cloth, trimmings of gold and silver brocade, 
 fur trimming, and a leather shoe. 
 
 176. — Complete harness for several horses. In the 
 middle, a highly ornamented drinking cup, partly gilt, 
 and four smaller ones of silver. All were found, one 
 within the other, on Osterby field, on the island of 
 Feio. Below are urns from Fohr, containing ashes 
 and several weapons, drinking cups from various 
 places, of clay. One cup contained a silver treasure. 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE. 93 
 
 Iron Age. 
 
 179. — 8th Room. Necklaces, with ornaments in 
 the shape of the Hammer of Thor — remarkable re- 
 minders of the utter ignorance of the true God. 
 
 {a) Dug out of a hill in the parish of Seier, near 
 Holbsek, covered by a flat stone. The coins are all 
 (with the exception of one English coin, stamped 
 between 940-946) from Persian regents, 896-942. 
 
 {b) Found in the parish of Magleby, on the island 
 of Niven, covered by a flat stone about one foot 
 underground. 
 
 (c) Found in the parish of Vester-Yedsted, near 
 Haderslev Schleswig, same year, containing gold 
 coins principally. 
 
 (d) Large silver Buckle decorated with Niello, and 
 inlaid with Soloplate, found in Mollebakken, near 
 Odense, Fyen. 
 
 187. — Oasts of two reliquaries (or boxes), which are 
 supposed to be of northern work. One is kept in 
 the Oathedral of Camin, the other in the Bamberg 
 Cathedral. 
 
 192. — Room 11th. Ivory horn (so-called Rolands- 
 horn or Oliphant) with carved representations of 
 battle and hunting scenes. Once presented to Ole 
 Worm by King Frederik III. Belt with buckle of 
 whalebone, on which is carved St. Michael and the 
 Dragon. 
 
 Draught and chess (figures) of whalebone and 
 bone, from different periods of the middle ages. 
 
 (a) Knife handles made of whalebone. 
 
 (b) Box made of same material ; also various 
 
94 FOURTH RAMBLE, 
 
 articles made of bone, found in a field near E/Oskilde, 
 where a factory for such things existed. 
 
 The Later Middle Ages. 
 
 193. — Keys, weapons, riding requisites, skates (of 
 bone), etc., found at Sjoring So, near the castle which 
 was destroyed 1086, when the rising took place 
 against King (Kong) Knud. 
 
 195-196. — Silver coins and melted silver lumps 
 found in an earthen vessel under a large stone in the 
 parish of Clemensker, on the island of Bornholm, 
 together with coins, the latest being from King 
 Magnus the Good (1047). Also remnants of silver 
 gilt vessels found at Haraldsborg Yoldsted, near 
 Roskilde, with 600 silver coins from the time of 
 King Niels ; believed to have been relics buried when 
 Erik Emun took the castle, 1133, in which his brother, 
 Harald Kesja, was imprisoned. Twelve finger-rings 
 of gold, several set with sapphires, amethysts, 
 pearls, etc. 
 
 197. — Queen Dagmar's Cross. A beautiful en- 
 amelled golden relic-cross, taken from her grave in 
 the convent church of Ringsted, an ancient burial- 
 place. This queen was the wife of Yaldemar II., 
 Sejer (the victor), who lived in the twelfth century, 
 called the "darling of the people." She was buried 
 in the convent church of Ringsted, where rested all 
 that could ever die of Denmark's bravest and best- 
 beloved kings, the Yaldemars. Another golden relic- 
 cross, with a chain terminating in dragons' heads. 
 This style dates from the heathen time. The cross 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE, 95 
 
 is engraven with images of saints and crucifixes, and 
 bears the inscription — *' Olaf Cununce " (ancient Norse 
 word for king). E-ound the figure of one of the saints 
 is traced the word " Snvi (va)," meaning, without 
 certain date or year, ^ine vera anno. 
 
 Olaf the Holy, first a Yiking (pirate), was chris- 
 tened in his thirtieth year, at Rouen. He conquered 
 the whole of Norway, but the severity with which he 
 governed prepared the way for Canute the Great. 
 
 The banished Olaf returned from Russia, and was 
 slain at the battle of Stiklestad in 1030. It was 
 said that he arose again, after being dead, stretched 
 out his arms, and ascended up to heaven. The pious 
 Norwegians, w^ho had just renounced the errors of 
 Paganism, wanted, perhaps, a national saint, so what 
 was left of him was buried with great magnificence at 
 Trondhjem. Then the shrine of St. Olaf became 
 famous. Not even Thomas- a-Becket, in later days, 
 was held in such veneration as this sainted martyr- 
 king, until 1541, when the Danish Lutherans, in 
 the fervour of their religious zeal, plundered the 
 shrine. But the saint was revenged, for part of the 
 treasure was sent by sea, and lost, while the remainder 
 fell into the hands of robbers on land. 
 
 The cross was found on Ouro, an island in 
 Isefjorden, Denmark. 
 
 220. — A representation of Our Saviour's Grave, 
 from Kjerteminde Kirke. 
 
 283. — A chair which belonged to the great 
 astronomer, Tycho Brahe. 
 
 284. — A silver altar, from the prayer-room in 
 
96 FOURTH RAMBLE, 
 
 Frederiksborg Church. Made in the sixteenth 
 century, at Augsburg, by Matthew Wallbaum. 
 
 296. — A carved wooden bedstead, thought to date 
 from the time of Frederik II., or that of his son and 
 successor. Christian IV. 
 
 310. — Note Book for the year 1616, belonging to 
 Christian IV. 
 
 312. — Peder Vessel, or Tordenskjolds. Some of 
 his letters, his sabre, with the date 1717 on the hilt, 
 and the fatal pistols, with his monogram. 
 
 315. — A piece of wooden wainscot, beautifully 
 
 inlaid with mother-of-pearl, from the palace of 
 
 Christiansborg, when it was pulled down during the 
 reign of Christian VI. 
 
 THE OLD NORTHERN MUSEUM 
 
 (de nokdiske oldsager). 
 
 Open every Thursday from 12 till 2. From May 
 1st to September 1st, also every Tuesday, from 5 till 
 7 ; in September from 3 till 5 on Tuesdays ; and from 
 May 1st till September 1st, every Saturday, from 12 
 till 2. In winter, every Sunday and Thursday, from 
 12 till 2. 
 
 THE ETHNOGRAPHICAL MUSEUM 
 
 (kgl. ethnographiske museum), 
 
 Also in the Prince's Palace, may almost vie with its 
 older associate, the Old Northern Museum, in interest 
 and scientific value, and is one of the richest museums 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE. 97 
 
 of Europe, containing thirty-five rooms in two 
 principal divisions. 
 
 1st. — The Ancient Time, comprising European 
 (except those of Scandinavia), Asiatic, African, and 
 American antiquities. 
 
 2nd. — The Modern Time — objects showing the 
 religious ceremonies, customs, domestic and military 
 life, arts and industries of the principal non-European 
 nations, of a primitive or stagnating civilisation. 
 Greenland and India are especially represented, and 
 well worth seeing. 
 
 West Greenland. 
 
 54. — A bridal costume. 
 
 55. — A mother carrying her baby on her back in a 
 sort of hood called an amaut. 
 
 56. — A mother belonging to North Greenland, with 
 B, her young son, and C, her daughter ; D, a cloak 
 used by them, made of skin ; E, a game with rings 
 that is played by the grown-up people. 
 
 71. — A Greenlander's tent, fitted up, even to the 
 stones which are to keep close the sides of the tent. 
 The curtain of skin inside is to shut off the part used 
 as kitchen and sleeping-room by the family ; the 
 settle is a jack-of-all-trades, serving as table, chair, 
 and bed. Almost every family have a tent of their own. 
 The Greenlanders are said to be a very hospitable 
 people. 
 
 North America (Labrador). 
 
 Labrador is the vast North American peninsula 
 to which, nearly four centuries ago, Corte Real gave 
 
 7 
 
98 FOURTH RAMBLE. 
 
 the name of Labrador (cultivable land), presumably 
 upon the lucus a non principle ; for those portions 
 which have hitherto been explored by Europeans are 
 described as some of the most barren regions of the 
 globe, and absolutely destitute of vegetation. 
 
 78. — A, an Esquimaux man ; B, a woman ; C, a 
 cloak of goat's skin, always worn by the Esquimaux 
 when on the water in his cajac (boat). He does not 
 use the Greenlander's tunic, but simply laces his head 
 and waist into a cloak of skin, and fastens himself 
 into the cajac; thus he is waterproof when he has on 
 (D) the stockings of sealskin, or (E) of reindeer skin. 
 
 From the North-West Coast. 
 
 84. — A, a rattle used by the Kadjak for their 
 dances, resembling a tambourine ; B, a woman's 
 costume made of feathers, for use at festivals. 
 
 Indian America. 
 
 100. — Representation of a chieftain of the Sauks- 
 Kiokuk, holding in his right hand a tomahawk or 
 battle-axe. 
 
 102. — The full costume of a chieftain doctor. The 
 ornament of dyed hair attached to the head is used 
 as a mark of singular bravery ; ornaments are in the 
 ears, a pipe or calumet, besides more ordinary pipes, 
 a tobacco-pouch, pipe-cleaner, the substitute for 
 tobacco, called knirk-knirk, a bow and arrow, a 
 tomahawk, a scalp, a scalping-knife with sheath. 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE, 99 
 
 107. — Masks that are worn on certain occasions by 
 members of what is called the False Face. The 
 other masks of rice are used at the rice feasts by- 
 young Crow Indians, who divide themselves into 
 small parties, and go from wigwam to wigwam with 
 noisy mirth. One of their celebrated festivals is 
 called Huli Festival, and answers to our All Fools' 
 Bay. 
 
 Guinea, in Africa. 
 
 The greater part of the Gold Coast belongs to 
 Great Britain, but the climate is so unhealthy that 
 the country is called the *' white man's grave." 
 Lower Guinea belongs in part to Portugal. 
 
 153. — A fishing-canoe to hold three persons. It 
 has been hollowed out by fire. 
 
 Dutch Colonies. 
 
 200. — Costume from Java. 
 
 208. — A farmer's carriage, in use in the west and 
 east provinces, and which is generally drawn by 
 buffaloes. 
 
 225. — A young Dajak, bringing an enemy's head, 
 which he himself has struck off, dried, prepared, and 
 ornamented, as an offering to his bride. 
 
 New Caledonia 
 
 One of the largest islands in the Western Pacific. 
 
 242. — Masks which are worn by the people at their 
 festivals, especially at religious dances. 
 
100 FOURTH BAUBLE, 
 
 Japan. 
 
 The Japanese principally worship an idol called 
 Amidas. The idol is on horseback, the horse having 
 seven heads, and the head of the idol like that of a 
 dog. The prayer consists of three words only, which 
 signify "Ever-blessed Amidas, have mercy upon us." 
 
 288. — Costume of a rich Japanese of rank. The 
 costumes are almost the same for both sexes and all 
 classes, only differing in texture according to the 
 rank and riches of the wearer. It consists of a long 
 thin gown, of which the gentlemen generally have on 
 six at once, while the women have often about twenty 
 at one time ; they are held together round the waist 
 with a belt, to which the gentlemen suspend their 
 swords, fan, pipe, and tobacco-pouch, an inkstand 
 and medical box. Stockings are only in use with the 
 better class, and soft papers take the place of pocket- 
 handkerchiefs, which are disposed of on convenient 
 occasions. 
 
 292. — In rainy seasons the peasants protect them- 
 selves with a large hat made of fine bamboo stalks, 
 and a cloak made of plaited straw or palm leaves. 
 
 China. 
 
 The Chinaman worships his ancestors to the third 
 and fourth generation (not beyond), from the Emperor 
 downwards. 
 
 339. — Represents a Chief of the Imperial House- 
 hold Troops, who form the guard-of -honour to the 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE, 101 
 
 Emperor. His rank is indicated by the lace of the 
 Mandarin, on which are hanging yellow beads. 
 
 India. 
 
 607. — Model of a carriage standing in a temple at 
 Trankebar, in which the gods were supposed to drive 
 at the yearly processions. Sometimes a fanatic Indian 
 would throw himself under the wheels, as it was 
 believed he would go to eternal bliss if the deities 
 had passed over him. 
 
 413. — A glass case in window contains Persian, 
 Bengal, and other books. The most remarkable are 
 translations of the Old Testament ; and a book of 
 musical tunes, written by an Indian chief, who was 
 also a professor of music. In it are some flattering 
 lines composed on the Prince of Wales's visit to 
 India in 1876. The words are as follows : — " Neither 
 the moon, nor the precious pearl, nor the bright cam- 
 phor can bear comparison with thy brilliant fame. 
 In the moon there is a spot, in the pearl there is a 
 hole, in the camphor volatility; but thy fame is 
 spotless, solid, and ever-enduring." 
 
 447a. — Some really splendid jewellery and orna- 
 ments from Kuttak. The goldsmiths in Kuttak are 
 famous for their artistic silver ornaments, which can- 
 not be made in such perfection at any other place in 
 India. They wash the silver with the juice of a fruit, 
 that makes it almost pearl-white. 
 
 447b. — A market-place near Pucculoe, about twelve 
 miles from Calcutta. 
 
102 FOURTH RAMBLE, 
 
 Turkey. 
 
 463. — Represents a Turkish Princess in a rich 
 festival costume. These princesses live till about 
 their tenth year shut up in the harem amongst their 
 own sex, and are only seen veiled by men. Their 
 time is spent in idleness, such as smoking and telling 
 stories, their only useful occupation being the em- 
 broidering of slippers. This mode of life gives them 
 a very white, delicate complexion. 
 
 469. — An officer who is called Ustha, or head- cook. 
 
 473, — Here are some elegant carriages ; one of 
 them was a gift from the Viceroy of Egypt, Mehemed 
 Ali, to the Danish Consul in Alexandria at the time. 
 
 476. — On a stand, in the middle of the room, is a 
 remarkable pipe, called " Nargile," or " Nargilly." 
 
 This, the Ethnographical Museum, is open, from 1st 
 October till 30th April, every Sunday from 12 to 2, 
 and every Wednesday from 10 to 12; from 1st May 
 till 30th September, every Monday and Friday 
 from 10 to 12, and every Wednesday from 5 to 7. 
 (Free.) 
 
 A large collection of steel and other engravings, 
 as well as sketches, in the Palace of the Prince, 
 
 amongst which, note particularly those of Durer, 
 who presented them to King Christian II. in 1521, 
 when the latter went to visit the Emperor Charles Y., 
 his brother-in-law, at Brussels. 
 
 Open every Tuesday and Friday from 11 to 2. (Free.) 
 
FOURTH RAMBLE, 103 
 
 THE COLLECTION OF MEDALS AND COINS, 
 Palace of the Prince, 
 
 Amount to more than 30,000 in number. 
 
 Open from May till the end of September, every 
 Monday from 12 to 2. (Free.) See newspapers 
 to be exact about day. 
 
 Now let us tram or walk back to the Kongens 
 Nytorv. 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 
 
 From the King's Newmarket we pass Niels 
 Juels' Monument and Holmens Church. Crossing 
 Holmens Bridge we have, facing us to the right, 
 
 CHRISTIANSBOEG PALACE, [ 
 
 " Men said at vespers, * All is well ! ' 
 In one wild night the structure fell." 
 
 Situated on the north-western side of Slotsholmen 
 (the Islet of the Palace), where once stood the 
 Axelhuns that Bishop Absalon erected, 1168, against 
 the Yendish pirates. 
 
 Scarcely any building has undergone so may altera- 
 tions as this palace, for nearly all the kings, from 
 Erik Plougpenning, son of Yaldemar Sejr, to 
 Christian YIIL, have rebuilt and changed it, 
 and fires have demolished it. Christian YI. had 
 the whole place pulled down and erected anew 
 with great splendour, as though it were to last for 
 ever, instead of which, it stood little more than half 
 a century. Then a fire, February 1795, consumed 
 all except the stables and out-buildings. Again, in 
 October 1884, it became a victim to the flames. A 
 son of Erin suggested dynamite as the cause of 
 the last burning; but there is not room for Irish- 
 Americans in Denmark. 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 105 
 
 In the same building is held the Rigsdag, or 
 National Diet, which consists of the Landsthing 
 and the Folkething — the former a Senate or Upper 
 House, the latter a House of Commons. The repre- 
 sentatives have three years of power, and the 
 members are paid a salary of 15s. per day. The 
 average number of working days in a session is about 
 145, so that the total amounts to £108, 15s. Each 
 chamber can propose and discuss a measure, but the 
 king's consent is required to give the resolution of 
 the Diet legal efficacy, and under special urgent cir- 
 cumstances the king may promulgate a provisional 
 and temporary law. Notwithstanding occasional dis- 
 turbances, which in some countries might have 
 brought about critical results, the Danish Govern- 
 ment has, on the whole, maintained a well-balanced 
 political equilibrium since people and king have 
 shared in the exercise of constitutionally-established 
 rights and obligations. 
 
 EQUESTEIAN STATUE OF FREDEEIK YII. 
 (founder of the constitution, 1848-1863), 
 
 Faces the principal entrance. The statue was cast 
 in bronze after the model of Bissen, and inaugurated 
 October 6th, 1873. 
 
 The late building was constructed on the plans of 
 Hansen, whilst the front was adorned by works of 
 Thorvaldsen. Above, reliefs : — Minerva and Pro- 
 metheus, Hercules and Hebe, Jupiter and Nemesis, 
 .^sculap and Hygea. Beside the porch, standing 
 in niches, four allegorical bronze figures — Strength, 
 Wisdom, Health, and Justice (the latter by Bissen). 
 
 / 
 
106 FIFTH RAMBLE. 
 
 Interior. 
 
 It was my intention to have given a description at 
 some length of the furnishing of the Royal Apart- 
 ment, and for that purpose I had gone over all, 
 note-book in hand, only a few days before the fatal 
 fire of October 1884. Now I shall only mention a few 
 things. The pictures from the Gallery on the top 
 floor of the pala,ce are now on view at Charlottenborg. 
 
 Amongst the departed grandeur I must mention 
 the large Ball Room, or Knights' Hall (Riddersal), 
 with reliefs by Bissen, representing Scandinavian and 
 Greek mythological scenes. In the ante-chamber of 
 the Knights' Hall was a representation of Thorvald- 
 sen's " Triumph of Alexander the Great entering 
 Babylon." Plaster copies are in his museum. 
 
 Now let us go through the east entrance, near the 
 Ministerial Buildings, till we come to the Toihus- 
 gade to the left. Here stands the 
 
 ARMOURY (Toihuset) 
 
 Of the land army, which is partly situated in the 
 ground-floor of that large and long building, near the 
 palace of Christiansborg, contiguous to Proviantgaar- 
 den (the magazine for provisions), and partly in the 
 great building that encloses Toihusgaden, on the 
 opposite side of Proviantgaarden. The Arsenal, 
 originally established 1604, stands under the survey 
 of the artillery, and contains arms for the greater 
 part of the army. The weapons are here arranged in 
 the most beautiful manner in a hall three hundred 
 ells in length (about 210 yards). 
 
FIFTH B AMBLE. 107 
 
 "From floor to ceiling, 
 
 Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms. 
 But from their silent pipes no anthem pealiug. 
 
 Oh ! what a sound will rise, how wild and drear}-, 
 When the death-angel touches those keys ! " 
 
 FraiDed in glass is a handsome sword that was 
 given to Landgreve Carl, of Hessen Cassel, about 
 1760, and placed here 1837. 
 
 Here are also to be found the two Saxon cannons 
 of metal that were taken at Dyppel, the 13th April 
 1849, together with other trophies taken in the 
 former Sleswig war. The Arsenal is open to the 
 public from the 1st of May till the 1st of October, 
 every Wednesday, from 1 to 3 o'clock. 
 
 The Royal Library. Entrance from Tojhusgade. 
 The library was founded by Christian III. in the 
 middle of the 16th century. It belongs to the 
 richest libraries in Europe, containing 550,000 
 volumes and more than 200,000 manuscripts. Open 
 daily. 
 
 Now we turn back to the Palace Place (Slots- 
 plads), and pass the equestrian statue of Frederik YIL, 
 and walk on till we come to the 
 
 PALACE CHURCH 
 
 (slotskirken). 
 
 It is connected with Christiansborg, built in a plain 
 but handsome style, with a dome. To the amateur it 
 exhibits curiosities in several works by Bissen and 
 Freund, which of late have been augmented with 
 statues of the Evangelists, modelled by Conradsen, 
 Peters, and Stein. 
 
108 FIFTH RAMBLE. 
 
 THORVALDSEN'S MUSEUM. // 
 
 ''Munificence, fame, so great, so rare, 
 Enduring marble should alone declare ; 
 And yet, what n&arble or what fluent pen 
 Could mark his place amongst our greatest men ? " 
 
 The Museum stands close to the Palace of Christians- 
 borg, and the imposing character of that building 
 has quite spoilt the artistic effect of this temple of 
 art ; or, perhaps, it is too much in the style of 
 Pompeii for a modern town, though the decorations 
 are very inferior to those of Pompeii, especially the 
 outer Etrucian paintings representing the. arrival of 
 Thorvaldsen with his works from Italy, after an 
 absence of more than eighteen years. Built by the 
 architect Bindeoboll, between 1839-1848. 
 
 With great difficulty the Museum was saved 
 from the flames when the unfortunate palace was 
 burnt in 1884; the populace, however, prevented its 
 destruction by keeping it covered with carpets and 
 sails taken wet from the Holmens Canal ; otherwise 
 the loss — not only to Denmark but to Europe — must 
 have been irreparable, for many do not hesitate to 
 place Thorvaldsen above Canova, and compare him 
 with the antique. That he understood art as few 
 have done is seen in his modelling and grouping ; 
 indeed, in the whole spirit of his works. When I 
 look at the figure portraying him as resting on 
 "Hope," I cannot help picturing the delight he must 
 have felt at seeing his ideas growing into shape out of 
 the cold, hard rocks under the blows of his chisel. It 
 does not become me, however, to talk of the great 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 
 
 109 
 
 
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no FIFTH RAMBLE, 
 
 creations of Thorvaldsen, for his genius has set him, 
 like Phidias of old, on a pinnacle above criticism. 
 
 The Museum is unique of its kind, for it contains 
 not only the works but the Grave of the great sculptor. 
 In the inner court, open to the skies, overrun with 
 that bonnie, dainty plant, the ivy green, rests the 
 mortal remains of Bertel Thorvaldsen. The granite 
 frame has the date of his birth and death — 19th of 
 November 1770, and 24th of March 1844. This 
 wonderful man began life by assisting his father, a 
 poor wood-carver in Iceland, and in his eleventh year 
 first attended the free school of the Academy of Arts 
 in Copenhagen. Then he went to Italy, with nothing 
 but his genius to carve his way to fortune. Shake- 
 speare says, ^*Some men are born great, some achieve 
 greatness, and some have greatness thrust upon them." 
 Thorvaldsen will rank amongst the few distinguished 
 men who have achieved greatness. He became 
 known to the world quite through chance. After 
 having worked for some time unrecognised in Rome 
 {for Rome still lives to conjure the world with her 
 imperishable name), he had determined (doubtless in 
 disgust) on returning to Denmark, and laying down 
 for ever the sculptor's chisel, when a chance error in 
 the drawing up of his passport detained him twenty- 
 four hours. During this interval of waiting came 
 Thomas Hope to the studio, admired his " Jason " in 
 clay, and aroused the desponding Dane's hope by 
 ordering a copy in marble, for which he gave 800 ducats 
 (about £350). Thus the golden genius of Thorvaldsen 
 was brought out through chance, and to Denmark 
 was given a king in sculpture, of whom she is justly 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, HI 
 
 proud. His fame, however, belongs less to Denmark 
 than to Rome, where he spent nearly all his life, and 
 where his hand was trained and his sense of beauty 
 developed. 
 
 With galleries and vestibules, there are forty-two 
 rooms in the Museum. To each figure contained there 
 is given the required space, and an harmonious 
 arrangement, so necessary to the full enjoyment of the 
 feelings inspired by the plastic art ; for sculpture, in 
 its stillness and solemnity, breathes of another world, 
 and essentially requires a fitting accompaniment of 
 tranquillity ; otherwise the general effect is impaired. 
 
 In the Cellar are placed juvenile works by Thor- 
 valdsen, some marble statues by other modern artists, 
 plaster casts of antique sculptures, etc. 
 
 The Ground Floor contains exclusively Thorvald- 
 
 sen's works. The numbers of the rooms are 
 placed under the window. 
 
 ' The front entrance to the Museum is surmounted 
 by a figure of Victory on a quadriga, by Bissen after 
 Thorvaldsen. But we must enter by a small side door 
 opposite the unfortunate palace (the usual entrance). 
 
 THORYALDSEN'S WORKS. 
 
 FIRST PLOOR (fORSTE ETAGE). 
 ENTRANCE HALL (fORHAL), 
 
 "^-^113. — Statue, Nicolaus Copernicus (model for the 
 bronze at Warsaw). His real name was Copernik ; 
 — born at Thorn, in Prussia, he became doctor of 
 medicine, besides giving much time to mathematics ; 
 and seems to have passed his days in the threefold 
 
 J 
 
112 FIFTH RAMBLE. 
 
 occupations of ecclesiastical duties, gratuitous medical 
 practice amongst the poor, and astronomical re- 
 searches. He died 1543, just as a complete copy of 
 his works was being published. As Gysius wrote to 
 Rheticus, '* Copernicus saw it, touched it, but was 
 too near his end to do more." 
 
 114-116. — Guttenberg (model for the bronze monu- 
 ment at Mayence). Thorvaldsen did the modelling, 
 but it was cast in bronze at Paris. The cost of the 
 monument amounted to about two thousand pounds, 
 and was erected 1837. His real name was Johannes 
 Gensfleisch. Like many other great inventors, he 
 met with much ingratitude, and was hunted into 
 exile by the guild of writers, the priests, and his 
 partners, Faust and Schoffer. A Psalter issued by 
 the firm in 1457 and 1459 is still in existence, and 
 the value of the work is now estimated at £5,250. 
 
 123. — Prince Joseph Poniatowski — the hope and 
 pride of Poland (model intended for a bronze one at 
 Warsaw, where he was born in 1763). He was 
 nephew of Stanislaus Augustus, last King of Poland, 
 and made a Marshal of France by Napoleon, just 
 before the battle of Leipzig. A few days later, 18th 
 October, being pressed by the enemy upon the bank 
 of the Elster, which was swollen by the rains, he 
 spurred his horse into the river and was drowned. 
 
 \ 128. — Maximilian L, Elector of Bavaria (model of 
 the bronze monument at Munich). 
 
 " N 135^ — Schiller (model for the bronze monument at 
 Stuttgart). Schiller's writings, transplanted to our 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 113 
 
 own soil, are a conquest by which our literature, rich 
 as it is, has been enriched still further. The story of 
 the death of Gustavus Adolphus has been often told, 
 but no one has surpassed Schiller's masterly descrip- 
 tion. Had Motley lived to write the history of the 
 Thirty Yeari War the American might have fol- 
 lowed closely on the heels of the German historian ; 
 but as it is, Schiller is without a rival in recording 
 that historical event. "William Tell,'' is one of 
 his finest dramas, and his last work. He was born 
 November 10th, 1759, at Marbach, on the Neckar j 
 died at Weimar, 9th May, 1805. 
 
 142-145.— Pope Pius the VII. (model for the 
 marble monument in St. Peter's, Rome). To the 
 right. Heavenly Wisdom ; to the left, Divine 
 Strength ; on the pedestal, the Pope's arms are held 
 by two angels. It was he who crowned Napoleon at 
 Paris, and was afterwards confined at Fontainebleau 
 by the ungrateful monarch. But Napoleon found an 
 unarmed priest more diflicult to conquer than 
 nations. Pius died at the advanced age of eighty- 
 one, August 20th, 1823. 
 
 \i 156. — Eugene, Duke of Leuchtenberg (in marble 
 at Munich, on the duke's tomb). He was Eugene 
 Beauharnais, whose mother married Buonaparte, 
 March 1796. Eugene's eldest daughter, Josephine- 
 Maximilienne, married, in 1823, Oscar Bernadotte, 
 Crown Prince of Sweden. 
 
 503. — Relief, Triumphal Procession of Alexander 
 the Great. Ranks amongst Thorvaldsen's principal 
 
114 FIFTH RAMBLE. 
 
 works. It was ordered by Napoleon I. for the 
 Palzzo E>egio at Rome ; represented now by a cast, as 
 the original became in 1815 the property of the 
 Marchese Sommariva, and is now in the Villa 
 Garlotta, near Cadenabbia, on the Lake of Como, 
 formerly his residence. 
 
 ^ 
 
 Corridor. 
 
 52. — Jason with the Golden Fleece (the master's 
 first great work, which became the founder 
 of its author's fortune). . The title, " Golden 
 Fleece suggests to the mind the classical account of 
 the Argonauts — the fifty heroes who sailed to Colcis 
 in the ship Argo, commanded by Jason, in order to 
 bring it from thence. The Golden Fleece was a 
 ram's hide that possessed, so the story goes, 
 chameleon-like properties, for it was sometimes white 
 in colour, then purple, and at other times it assumed 
 a golden appearance. Be that as it may, this unique 
 hide was hung up in the Grove of Mars, and the 
 heroic Argonauts, after inconceivable difficulties, 
 succeeded in bringing it back again in triumph. 
 
 N 119. — Lion dying over the royal shield of France 
 (model for a monument at Lucerne). Erected to the 
 memory of the Swiss Guards, who fell in defending 
 thf^ Royal Family of France, Louis the XVI., his 
 wife and children, in the great French Revolution of 
 1792. It was drawn and designed by Thorvaldsen, 
 and represents a wounded lion, fallen, with a spear 
 fixed in his side, the shaft presenting a broken frag- 
 ment only ; his head drooping between his legs, and 
 
FIFTH EA MBL E, 115 
 
 one paw stretched out to cover and protect, if 
 possible, a shield, on which are the fleurs-de-lis of the 
 old royal arms of France. Nothing could be more 
 simple or expressive of the sentiment intended to be 
 conveyed ; no other allegory is necessary, for marble 
 under the hand of Thorvaldsen, who is, as it were, a 
 Homer of the art of sculpture, speaks for itself. 
 
 \j 162. — Thorvaldsen in his seventieth year, in work- 
 ing dress, tool in hand, leaning on the statue of 
 ** Hope." This I like immensely myself. 
 
 vA 255. — Bust of Sir Walter Scott, our Border poet, 
 and amongst the foremost of our British novelists. 
 Who surpasess Sir Walter Scott ? 
 
 491. — Kelief, Briseis led away from Achilles by 
 the heralds of Agamemnon. Though a minor group, 
 it is wonderfully effective. Note the impassable faces 
 of the aged envoys, the longing, lingering look of the 
 beautiful girl as she is dragged away, and the re- 
 pressed fury which betrays itself in every limb of the 
 terrible hero, straining his sword-hilt till the belt 
 stands out like a bowstring, with a vividness and 
 fidelity to life which might have satisfied even Homer. 
 *'King of men" is the epithet constantly added to 
 the name of Agamemnon, the legends of whose 
 house have formed so many subjects to the Greek 
 tragedians. 
 
 612. — Cardinal Consalvi bringing back to Pius 
 VII. the Papal Provinces. In the Pantheon, Rome, 
 on his sarcophagus. (Buried in S. Marcello.) 
 
116 FIFTH RAMBLE, 
 
 SEPULCHRAL RELIEF. 
 
 613.— Tobias Healing his Blind Father. (On the 
 tomb of the oculist Yacca Berlinghiere, in the Campo 
 Santo at Pisa.) 
 
 CHRISTUS HALL. \y 
 
 82.— Statue, Christ. 
 
 86-103. —Statues: The Apostles. 86. — Peter. 
 87. — Matthew. 89. — John. 91.— His brother James 
 93.— Philip. 94.— Judas Thaddeus. 95.— Andrew. 
 96. — Thomas. 98. — James the Less. 99. — Bar- 
 tholomew. 101. — Simon Zelotes. 103. — Paul. 
 
 112. — Angel of Baptism. 
 
 (These figures, except 94 and 95, are the models 
 for the marble statues in Our Lady's Church.) 
 
 The originals were a gift from Thorvaldsen to the 
 Church of Our Lady, 1838 ; and a right royal gift, 
 too, for in all Copenhagen there is nothing finer than 
 this famous collection. Scotland possesses a very 
 good copy of the font in St. Andrew's Cathedral, 
 Inverness, by the late Mr. Redfern, of London. 
 
 559.— Relief. Frieze, Entry of Christ into 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 560. — Relief. Frieze, Christ on his way to 
 Golgotha. 
 
 (These are sketches for the friezes decorating Our 
 Lady's Church.) 
 
 564. — Relief, Christ entrusting the Apostle Peter 
 with the administration of the Church. (In marble 
 in the chapel of the Pitti Palace, Florence.) 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 117 
 
 569. — Relief, Annunciation of the Virgin. 
 
 570. — Relief, Christ, new-born, adored by the 
 shepherds. 
 
 572. — Relief, Christ, twelve years old, teaching in 
 the Temple. 
 
 573. — Relief, Christ baptised by St. John. 
 
 596.— Relief, Child's Guardian Angel. 
 
 597.— Relief, Christian Charity. 
 
 (These last two reliefs are found in marble in our 
 Lady's Church above the school-box and the poor-box. ) 
 
 ROOM I. 
 
 ^ 40. — Statue, Ganymede presenting the filled cup. 
 He was accounted by the ancient Greeks the most 
 beautiful of men, and is said to have been carried off 
 to heaven by the order of Zeus, from Mount Ida, and 
 borne away by an eagle, that he might act as cup- 
 bearer to the Gods. 
 
 ROOM II. 
 
 \j 27. — Group, Amor and Psyche re-united in heaven. 
 
 ROOM III. 
 
 Ni 29. — Group, the Graces and Amor, the three 
 goddesses among the ancient Greeks and Romans 
 who were thought to be personifications of grace and 
 beauty. According to Hesiod, their names were 
 Euphrosyne, Aglaia, and Thalia. 
 
118 FIFTH RAMBLE, 
 
 ROOM IV. 
 
 V 11. — Statue, Venus with the apple, the prize of 
 beauty awarded to her by Paris. Paris was the son 
 of Priam, King of Troy. He carried off Helena 
 from Sparta during the absence of her husband 
 Menelaus, and took her to Troy, which caused the 
 Trojan war. 
 
 ROOM V. 
 
 ^ 51. — Statue, Jason with the Golden Fleece. Note 
 the grand commanding beauty, an unmistakable 
 impress of the great sculptor^s genius. 
 
 ROOM VI. 
 
 38. — Statue, Hebe, the female attendant and cup- 
 bearer of the gods. She was worshipped at Athens 
 under the name of Hebe, and at Rome under the 
 corresponding Latin name of Juventas, both names 
 signifying youth. 
 
 323. — Relief, Minerva and Prometheus. Minerva, 
 identified with the Greek Athene, is the goddess of 
 war ; while Prometheus is said to have taken fire 
 from heaven for the good of man, and was therefore 
 condemned to everlasting torture, being chained to a 
 rock, where his liver, renewed each night, was torn 
 and devoured each succeeding day by a vulture. 
 
 . ROOM VII. 
 
 '^ 6. — Group, Mars and Amor (from the Forty-fifth 
 Song of Anacreon). 
 
 502. — Relief, Homer, the father of the bardic 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 119 
 
 tribe, singing to the people, he was often in poverty. 
 That memorable couplet, which contrasts his fame 
 with his circumstances, tells the story of his career so 
 succinctly that no apology can be necessary for its 
 reproduction : — 
 
 " Seven cities now contend for Homer dead, 
 Through which the living Homer begged his bread." 
 
 ROOxM VIII. 
 
 46. — Statue, The Goddess of Hope, with a flower in 
 her hand (from the ancient Greek model). 
 
 ROOM IX. 
 
 8. — Statue, Vulcanus, or Vulcan (note the stern 
 repose). According to Homer, he was the son of 
 Zeus (Jupiter) and Hera (Juno), and from his birth 
 was so weakly and ugly that his mother, wishing to 
 get rid of him, dropped him from Olympus ; but 
 Thetis and Eurynome, two marine divinities, received 
 him in his fall, with whom he dwelt some time 
 before returning to Olympus. In the ancient Greek 
 mythology he is the god of fire, and named Heph 
 ^stus. 
 
 ^^ 237. — Bust, Wilhelm von Humboldt, the minister 
 who, during forty years, enjoyed the reputation of 
 being one of the greatest linguists of Europe. He 
 died April 8th, 1835. The greater part of his works 
 were afterwards collected by his brother, and pub- 
 lished under the title, "Wilhelm von Humboldt's 
 Gesammelte Werke," Berlin, 1841. 
 
120 FIFTH E AMBLE. 
 
 ROOM X. 
 
 4. — Statue, Mercury on the point of killing Argus. 
 This is thought to be one of the best specimens of the 
 talents of the sculptor. The god has just lulled 
 Argus to sleep, and is unsheathing the falchion with 
 which to slay him. The attitude is highly graceful ; 
 as for the head, it is perfectly beautiful, and presents 
 much of the character of ancient sculpture. 
 
 \ 352. — Relief, Pan teaching a little Satyr to play 
 lipon a pipe of reeds. In heathen mythology Pan 
 is called the god of the woods; in Greek, a deity 
 whose country was Arcadia. He was supposed to be 
 a great protector of flocks, so that shepherds made 
 him their god. The syrinx is a musical pipe he is 
 said to have invented. 
 
 ROOM XI. 
 
 166. — Statue, Countess Ostermann. 
 
 ROOM XII. 
 
 V 124. — Statue, Prince Joseph Poniatowski (first 
 model for the colossal statue in the Entrance Hall). 
 
 ROOM XIII. 
 
 V : 121. — Statue, Lion couching. 
 
 131. — Relief, Genius of Poetry (belonging to the 
 monument of Byron), intended for Westminster 
 Abbey, but refused a place by Dr. Ireland (the then 
 Dean), though, doubtless, the bones of scores of as 
 morally bad and less intellectual men rest under its 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE, 121 
 
 roof. So this memorial of one of our first writers was 
 allowed to remain for twelve years amongst a miscel- 
 laneous heap of rubbish in the cellar of the Custom 
 House. Then, in 1846, it was removed to the library 
 of Trinity College, Cambridge, which it now adorns. 
 
 '* Spare him> ye critics, his follies are past ! " 
 ROOM XIV. 
 
 44. — Statue, Gany modes (cup-bearer to the gods), 
 with the eagle of Jupiter. Ganymedes surpassed all 
 the gods in beauty. 
 
 ROOM XV. 
 
 155. — Statue, Prince Potocki (in marble over his 
 tomb at Cracow). 
 
 ROOM XVI. 
 
 22. — Statue, Amor, the god of love and harmony 
 amongst the ancient Romans, triumphantly examin- 
 ing the point of his arrow, 
 
 ROOM XVII. 
 
 53. — Statue, Adonis. In the mythology of the 
 Greeks he was a beautiful young shepherd, of 
 whom the goddss Yenus became enamoured. Mars, 
 in a fit of jealousy, chancing to meet him whilst 
 hunting, killed him. 
 
 ROOM XVIII. 
 
 > 31. — Group, The Graces, same as Room III. 
 
122 FIFTH RAMBLE. 
 
 ROOM XIX. 
 
 176.— Statue, Shepherd Boy. 
 
 ROOM XX. 
 
 162. — Statue, Thorvaldsen, same as Room VIII. 
 
 ROOM XXI. 
 
 ^"^ 152. — Statue, King Christian lY. (in bronze before 
 the Palace of Rosenborg, Copenhagen). He was 
 elected king at the age of eleven, when his father 
 died, and is said to have been the most gifted of his 
 race. He was trained under a regency of councillors 
 of state, and showed a marked predilection for 
 mechanical and maritime pursuits. He has en- 
 riched Copenhagen with numerous fine buildings, and 
 gave the design for various ships, including the 
 Trinity, which he commanded when he came to 
 London to visit his sister Anne, who had married 
 James I. 
 
 UPPER FLOOR — STAIRCASE. 
 
 14. — Statue, Hercules. (Model for one of the four 
 bronze statues at the portal of the Palace of 
 Christiansborg.) 
 
 308. — Bust, unknown portrait. 
 
 398. — Relief, Amor knitting a net for catching 
 souls. 
 
 399. — Relief, Amor caressing the faithful dog. 
 
 450. — Relief, Amor and Psyche. 
 
 452. — Relief, Amor and Hymen. 
 
FIFTH RAMBLE. 123 
 
 456. — Relief, Amor flying away. 
 520. — Relief, Genius of Painting. 
 521. — Relief, Genius of Architecture. 
 522-23.— Relief, Genius of Sculpture. 
 527. — Relief, Genius of Poetry. 
 
 CORRIDOR. 
 
 2. — Statue, Bacchus. 
 
 3. — Statue, Apollo. 
 
 190. — Bust, Ludvig Holberg, the Danish author. 
 
 ROOM XXII. 
 
 194. — Bust, Vilhelmine Marie, Danish princess. ;; 
 
 ROOM XXIII. 
 
 1. — Group, Bacchus and Ariadne. ^ 
 
 79. — Fioroni, Pope Pius VIII., carried in pro- 
 cession through the colonnade of S. Peter's. He was 
 elected in March 1829 to succeed Leo XII., and died 
 at the close of the following year. 
 
 ROOM XXIV. • / 
 
 122. — Hopfgarten. The well-known legend about 
 S. Elizabeth of Thuringia's ** Transformation of the 
 Bread into Roses," so as to avoid her husband's 
 displeasure. The historian has forgotten to relate if 
 she had power to transform them into bread again. 
 
126 FIFTH RAMBLE, 
 
 please the multitude. The English nation are said to 
 spend Sunday afternoon in eating and sleeping, whilst 
 the smaller fry read the Bible, or the true story of 
 some wonderful conversion, and that we sacrifice our 
 lives to fuss, form, and outside things ; truly so, 
 if we believe Bismarck's account of his first visit to 
 England — how, on landing at Hull, he was reproved 
 by a fellow-passenger for whistling, " because it was 
 Sunday." This so disgusted Bismarck that he imme- 
 diately set sail for Bonnie Scotland. Times are 
 changed with us since then, and the dear old Puritan 
 Sabbath is, alas ! doomed. 
 
 Open daily from 11 a.m. for a few hours; often gratis, 
 sometimes on payment of 50 ore (see newspapers). 
 
 An English catalogue, at greater length than I 
 have space for, can be had at the entrance, price 45 
 ore ; but the Danish and French are more complete. 
 
SIXTH RAMBLE. 
 
 We leave the King's Newmarket and turn into 
 the Ostergade, unless the traveller would like to 
 
 tram by Holmens Canal to the Vesterbrogade, 
 where the Extlibition Buildings are. Part of this 
 building was erected in 1873, and is constructed in a 
 grand and imposing style. 
 
 EXHIBITION jl^- 
 (udstillingen). 
 
 Opposite the Exhibition Buildings is the Cafe 
 National. This beautiful cafe is built in Italian 
 Renaissance style, ornamented with towers and 
 terraces. Concerts and representations are given 
 here. Entrance, 50 ore. 
 
 TIYOLI, 
 
 Situated at the front part of Vesterbrogade, and 
 just past the Exhibition Buildings. 
 
 This lovely summer garden, or modern' Arcadia, is 
 open to the public on the small payment of 50 ore, 
 unless something unusual is going on ; then there is a 
 trifling increase. Programme, 10 ore. Money changed 
 in the changing-office " Byttekontor," before the 
 entrance. The garden is open all day, but the 
 amusements do not commence till about six. It 
 
128 SIXTH RAMBLE, 
 
 is owned by a joint-stock company, and was opened 
 in 1843. 
 
 Near the entrance gate is a Theatre, with a curtain 
 resembling a gigantic peacock's plumage, that unfolds 
 and closes several times during the evening for a per- 
 formance in which figures conspicuously the well- 
 known " Man in White " (Pierrot), who is always 
 much applauded. 
 
 The large Concert Hall, formed chiefly of glass, was 
 erected 1863. It is very prettily situated on a 
 sheltered piece of ground, shut in with trees. The 
 music here always attracts a large crowd of listeners, 
 for there are seldom less than forty performers in the 
 band. 
 
 There are many other concert halls, but this is 
 certainly the best, and some of the others might very 
 well be dispensed with. A fine model of an old 
 Danish man-of-war was added to the beautiful lake, 
 with its pleasure boats, 1887. 
 
 The " Switch-Back Railway '' (Rutschbane), after a 
 run of twenty years, has given way to its rival, 
 ** Topsy-Turvey," which causes much amusement. 
 Note that benevolent-looking old gentleman, who 
 might be Mr. Pickwick himself, with such zest and 
 freshness does he enter into the fun ! Watch him 
 take his seat, settle his spectacles, crush his hat 
 down, and gravely start off with all the ardour and 
 earnestness of youth. A ride on the ** Topsy-Turvey " 
 {cost 25 ore), is decidedly novel, if not comfortable, 
 much more so indeed than a ride on the " Switch- 
 back Railway." The shuggy-shows and merry-go- 
 rounds are also well patronised. The Circus is 
 
SIXTH RAMBLE. 129 
 
 first-class, so also is the gymnastic performance. The 
 shrubbery is laid out as a labyrinth, and looks lovely 
 when illuminated ; but it is 
 
 " A place for lovers, and lovers only." 
 
 There are several dining-rooms, but dinner is best 
 served in the building, within the elegantly-constructed 
 bazaar. There are also numerous refreshment-places 
 to suit the various pockets. The ice creams I find 
 delicious, only they leave me, like Oliver Twist, 
 ** wishing for more ! '' 
 
 On a fete-night there are fire-works; then the 
 splendid avenues and lanes of trees are all lighted up, 
 till the whole resembles a fairy scene by torch-light ; 
 and, doubtless, Tivoli will be found to have scarcely its 
 equal in Europe, not only for the cheapness of the 
 amusements, but for the remarkably good behaviour 
 of the people, which is due to the culture of the 
 working-classes. 
 
 Entrance, 50 ore. 
 
 DANISH PEOPLE^S MUSEUM 
 
 (dansk folke-museum), 
 
 3 Vesterbrogade, near the Emancipation 
 Column and the Railway Station, founded some 
 years ago by Mr. Bernhardt Olsen (director of the 
 Tivoli Gardens), and the late Chamberlain, Mr. 
 Worsaae. It is in a somewhat similar style to the 
 Museum shown in the Trocadero Palace during the 
 Paris Exhibition of 1878, which was under the manage- 
 ment of the Swede, Dr. Harzelius, and was meant to 
 9 
 
130 SIXTH EAMBLE. 
 
 show the interior fittings of the peasants' dwellings in 
 Lapland and Sweden. According to Dr. Harzelius, the 
 fourth wall of each room was taken away, in order that 
 the spectators might look within ; but in the Danish 
 People's Museum the different rooms are complete, so 
 that the visitor, instead of looking in, now enters the 
 room. That this arrangement proved a great success 
 was shown by the amount of attention it received 
 from visitors when it was first on trial at the last 
 Copenhagen Industrial Exhibition. 
 
 This Museum was originally founded by private 
 collections and subscriptions, but the Government, 
 later on, added an annual monetary support. It 
 consists partly of various rooms from Iceland, Jut- 
 land, and Amager; and here may be seen some 
 interesting specimens of the dwellings of the once 
 Dutch (now called Amager) peasant life. 
 
 There are also rooms from the once Danish 
 province Skaane, now belonging to Sweden ; and 
 what makes it still more interesting is, that in most 
 cases the furniture is really taken from dwellings in 
 the provinces they are intended to represent, and 
 go far to show the manners and customs of a race 
 in whom long ages of culture have fostered a national 
 pride and self-respect, far surpassing our own people 
 in the same grade of life. This, the Danish People's 
 Museum, is to the left of the chief entrance on the first 
 floor, open from 11 to 6 p.m. Entrance, 60 ore. 
 
 SCANDINAVIAN PANOPTIKON. 
 
 In the same building as the Danish People's 
 Museum. It is in much the same style as Madame 
 
SIXTH RAMBLE, 131 
 
 Tussaud's Exhibition of Wax-works in London, and 
 so thoroughly well set off and placed that a stranger 
 cannot help thinking it has always stood in the same 
 spot, instead of being quite a recent addition to a 
 town already well stocked with museums. 
 
 On the 1st of May 1885 Mr. Rimb opened his 
 valuable collection, and at the same time, Mr. 
 Jacobsen his cool underground halls for refreshment. 
 
 Entering from the street, you ascend a few wide 
 steps and come vis-d-vis with a footman, who looks 
 at you as though he wanted your ticket. His smiles 
 are bestowed on all, but he does not move, for, alas ! 
 poor fellow ! he is one of the show-figures of the place. 
 After passing him, the Marble Hall, the pride of 
 the Panoptikon, is entered. It is not of marble, how- 
 ever, as you might imagine from the shining white 
 pillars, but of rococco, and more in the style of a 
 gallery than a hall. The figures are arranged in 
 niches in the wall, instead of round the room, like 
 those at Madame Tussaud's. 
 
 Here is old "Grundtvig, sitting in his lonely 
 cell.'^ He was both poet and theologian, entertaining 
 peculiar opinions on several points of doctrine. For 
 instance: he thought the Bible a useful, and even 
 necessary book, for the clergy, but dangerous in the 
 hands of the laymen. He has many disciples in 
 Norway and Denmark. This veteran enthusiast was 
 the editor of a paper in Copenhagen, in which he 
 advocated his opinions, and officiated as preacher in 
 an ** Hospital for Old Women 1 " 
 
 Charles XII., of Sweden, lying, pale, with bleeding 
 head, in the dark hole in front of the Norwegian 
 
132 SIXTH RAMBLE, 
 
 fortress Frederikshald, where he ended his restless 
 life by a cannon-ball, December 11th, 1718. As the 
 song says : — 
 
 "He could not retreat, 
 He could but fall." 
 
 ** I wonder did rival monarchs give the fatal wound ? 
 Or hostile millions press him to the ground ? " 
 
 Near is his last successor on the Swedish throne, 
 looking much happier with his family. The Queen 
 Sophia is represented as gazing at a statue that the 
 sculptor Fahlstedt, who modelled the group, is in the 
 act of presenting to her. 
 
 The Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden is modelling 
 a bust of her husband, who sits before her in uniform. 
 
 Do you know the song about Denmark's sailor- 
 hero, Niels Juel % " His hair it was so white." 
 Here you see him, with his white plait hanging down 
 his back, attired in his blue uniform. He is on the 
 point of going to see some more of Denmark's heroes, 
 — Vessel, Rud, and the one-eyed Christian IV., who 
 has, however, in some mysterious way, regained both 
 eyes. As Christian lost one eye at the battle of 
 Kolbergerheide, in 1644, when fighting against the 
 Swedes, the figure in question is probably intended 
 to represent him before that battle, and has, there- 
 fore, both eyes. Of them all, only Tordenksjold 
 seems to know the old man with the snow-white hair. 
 Now cross the room and see Hovgaard, the 
 North Pole explorer, sitting in a sleigh drawn by 
 dogs. He has no gloves on, though it must be cold 
 enough. He points to the North-East Passage, and 
 
 \ 
 
SIXTH RAMBLE, 133 
 
 Palander stands leaning against his gun, ready to 
 obey, but jSTordenskiold looks faint-hearted. This 
 reminds me of another illustrious navigator — John 
 Hatteras — who, poor man, sacrificing himself to the 
 progress of science, left the North Pole and his 
 reason together. What a sad return journey his 
 companions must have had ! 
 
 Now, look back many years, and imagine King 
 Christian II. bending in wild grief over the lifeless 
 form of his mistress, " Dy veke, the Dove." He 
 is feeling her white hand to see if the pulse has 
 really stopped, and trying to hear her breathing ; 
 but his little dove is lying still. This ill-fated 
 maiden died early, before any of the heavy 
 troubles had befallen her royal lover. She was 
 first^ seen by Christian at a public entertainment 
 given by the citizens of Bergen to welcome his land- 
 ing in Norway, whither he had been sent by his 
 father, King Hans, in 1501. "He paid the piper,'' 
 as an old historian remarks, in allusion to the meeting 
 of Christian with " Dyveke, the Dove." Surely no 
 prince ever paid so dearly for a dance as King 
 Christian of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden; since 
 the one dance with the Dutch Dove cost him his 
 three crowns, and danced him out of his kingdoms 
 into a dungeon. ** Experience is a dear school, but 
 fools will learn in no other ! " His wife was 
 Elizabeth, sister of the Emperor Charles V. 
 
 The Moorish Hall is golden and airy, and its pillars 
 and galleries are garlanded in Arabic embroidery of 
 blue and gold. The subdued light, falling through the 
 
134 SIXTH RAMBLE. 
 
 high mellow-coloured windows, makes one fancy- 
 one's self out on a moonlight night. 
 
 Here you behold the Enchanted Palace, where all 
 are in their long, long sleep. 
 
 Next comes the actors' region, where you might 
 fancy yourself in the corridor of the Theatre Royal. 
 Look ! there is Lange walking with Mrs. Tychsen ; 
 and — do my eyes deceive me ? there are Simonsen 
 and Mrs. Liitken, walking too. Mind you do not run 
 over Drachmann ! Then, guess who that fellow is, 
 putting his head into Sara Bernhardt's study ? Well : 
 it is Olaf ! 
 
 The Panoptikon has its entrance in the chief porch, 
 and occupies the cellar, also the first and second floor. 
 One of its greatest advantages, in comparison with 
 museums in other countries, is, that it has no Chamber 
 of Horrors. The building is open daily from 11 A. M. 
 till 10 P.M. Entrance — 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. 
 
 A few minutes walking along the Vesterbrogade 
 brings us to the 
 
 LIBERTY MONUMENT 
 (frihedsstotten). 
 
 This column was built by voluntary contributions 
 in 1797, in commemoration of the emancipation of 
 the peasantry by Frederick VI. ; though this happy 
 event seems to have been brought about chiefly 
 through Bernstorff freeing all peasants born on his 
 own land. 
 
 The obelisk, which rests upon a pedestal of Norwegian 
 marble, has, with this latter, a height of forty-eight feet, 
 
SIXTU RAMBLE, 135 
 
 and is provided with beautiful inscriptions answering 
 to the occasion. On the eastern and western side of 
 the pedestal are bas-reliefs representing the Emanci- 
 pation of a Peasant from Villenage, and the Goddess 
 of Justice; its four corners are adorned with tall 
 marble figures, executed by Wiedewelt, and emblem- 
 atically representing Fidelity, Patriotism, Agriculture, 
 and Valour. 
 
 We turn to the left, and have facing us the 
 
 RAILWAY STATION, 
 
 In use since October 14th, 1864; built by Mr. 
 Herholdt. 
 
 The next thing to note is the 
 
 PANORAMA 
 
 (jernbanegade), 
 
 Near the Dagmar Theatre, open from 9 a.m. till sunset. 
 Entrance, 1 kr. per person. 
 
 DAGMAR THEATRE, 
 
 In the same street, Jernbanegade, also Dagmar 
 Hotel, with elegant Restaurant and Cafd On the 
 fagade of the theatre are two statues of the poets, 
 Heiberg and Hertz, after the models of the sculptor 
 Carl Smith (pupil of Professor Albert Wolff, of 
 Berlin). 
 
 In the underground of the Dagmar Theatre is the 
 Dagmar Tunnel, where concerts are held in the 
 evenings. 
 
 Entrance, 50 ore. To those who visit the theatre it 
 is free. 
 
136 SIXTH RAMBLE, 
 
 THE CIRCUS 
 
 (CIRKUS). 
 
 That a town like Copenhagen should have a per- 
 manent building for a circus had^long been the wish 
 of the public, and this wish is now gratified, as the 
 new building was opened May 1886 by|Renz with 
 his famous troop ; he is also a director. The circus 
 has ample space for at least 3500 spectators, and 
 separate stabling for 150 horses. Both exterior and 
 interior are elaborately decorated. The architect was 
 Mr. Brinckopffs, a Dane. The principal entrances are 
 from the corner of Jernbanegade and Farimagsgade. 
 
 Admission — Balcony, 2 kr. ; boxes, 3 kr. ; other 
 seats, from 1.50 down to 50 ore. 
 
 Let us now return to the Liberty Column, and 
 take a tram or hire a carriage to the end of 
 Frederiksberg Alley or Avenue. On the road we 
 pass the Variety Theatre, and next, on the same 
 side, the Royal Shooting Club (Kongl-Skydebane), 
 constructed after a drawing of the Professor, Mr. 
 Hetsch. The Royal Danish Shooting Society, or 
 Danish Brotherhood, enjoys a high reputation. It 
 derives its origin from the middle ages, when the 
 guilds were first introduced in the Scandinavian realms, 
 and it was the called "The Guild of the Holy 
 Trinity;" later it became a Shooting Society, whose 
 members amuse themselves by shooting at a target 
 or parrot. The annual royal shooting at the bird 
 takes place in the month of June or July, on a green 
 
SIXTH RAMBLE. 137 
 
 meadow, and almost always in the presence of the 
 king and royal family. 
 
 On the same side, after a short distance we eome to 
 
 S. MATTHEW'S CHURCH 
 
 (matthaus kirkb), 
 Situated in the Valdemarsgade. The altar is 
 especially worth noticing, and the effective picture 
 behind it, representing " Christ's Sermon on the 
 Mount," painted by Olrik. 
 
 Close by is the Frederiksberg Avenue, or Allee, 
 leading to the Palace. There are many handsome 
 houses about here, and several tea-gardens. The 
 most noticeable of these beautiful pleasure establish- 
 ments are AUeenberg and Sommerlyst. These 
 two stand highest in public favour, having theatres 
 and many other amusements. 
 
 Sunday^ in summer time, is the day, if you want to 
 see Copenhagen making holiday. 
 
 Near the tea-gardens, at the far end of the Allee, 
 is the chief entrance to 
 
 FREDERIKSBERG GARDENS, 
 
 Where is the regular halting-place for cabs and trams. 
 
 Note a monumental statue of Frederik YI., who 
 was the last king to live here. The statue was. 
 erected by Bissen, and unveiled September 1st, 1858. 
 
 The Park itself, is a master-piece of modern 
 gardening, and the great charm of Frederiksberg. 
 It was originally laid out in the stiff French style^ 
 with terraces and cut hedges ; but at the beginning of 
 the Nineteenth century it was quite altered and 
 
138 SIXTH RAMBLE. 
 
 transformed into an English park. Now, its fine old 
 trees and fresh green-sward, dressed in their vernal 
 garments of living green, woven by the great Master 
 Worker, provides the citizen with a most delightful 
 summer lounging-place. 
 
 FREDERIKSBERG PALAOE 
 
 Stands on an elevation, from whence we have, lying 
 before us, a panorama of j Copenhagen and its sur- 
 roundings. 
 
 The Palace itself was erected by Frederik IV. in 
 the modern Italian style, as a summer residence for 
 his court. It is void of all grandeur, except in the 
 beautiful prospect it commands over the country, and 
 is now used as a school for educating officers for the 
 army. In Denmark it is a law that every young 
 man, on reaching the age of twenty-two, shall present 
 himself for conscription. The general appearance of 
 the army is not very creditable to the system, though, 
 in the past, they have shown how nobly they could 
 fight against hopeless odds. Compulsory service will, 
 I think, be by no means a discouraging one for the 
 upholder of the doctrines of the Peace Society ! It is 
 the paid professional who loves war — as it brings him 
 a chance of promotion and honour. The conscript 
 also, may like these glittering baits, but he loves 
 better the prospect of returning to his ordinary 
 work ; nor will he clamour for war, when he knows 
 such a proposal may mean a dose of lead imbedded in 
 his own sacred person. 
 
 We leave the Gardens by the side of the Palace, 
 and a few steps to the right bring us to 
 
SIXTH RAMBLE. 139 
 
 THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 
 
 These were once called the Gardens of the Princess. 
 After passing through various hands, they came into 
 those of a joint- stock company, who put them to 
 their present use, and have arranged all so nicely — 
 providing the animals with commodious houses and 
 cages. The dogs are especially deserving of notice, 
 and many of them are for sale at moderate prices. 
 
 The Gardens have increased immensely within the 
 last few years, so that they can now almost bear com- 
 parison with similar establishments in the greater 
 cities of Europe — such as those of Hamburg and 
 London. 
 
 The Gardens are open all day through the summer 
 months. 
 
 Admission — Adults, 40 ore ; children, 20 ore. 
 
 Now let us ask the band-master to strike up ** Rule 
 Britannia," whilst we partake of some light refresh- 
 ment. 
 
 Then we leave the Gardens and descend the little 
 hill close by, and soon see, to the right, 
 
 RAHBECK'S ALLEE, 
 
 Where stands a Lunatic Asylum ; but we have no 
 time to-day to go over lunatic asylums, so we just 
 take notice of a group over the porch, representing 
 "Mother's Love," executed after the model of 
 Professor Th. Stein, 
 
 A small monument in the Avenue was erected in 
 memory of the learned Rahbeck, after whom the 
 Avenue is named. 
 
140 SIXTH RAMBLE. 
 
 Behind the Lunatic Asylum, on an incline, stands the 
 large Carlsberg Brewery, property of the late rich 
 Captain Jakobsen. His son has a museum arranged 
 near his estate, New Carlsberg, which is close by, for 
 the exhibition of sculpture. The works of art are 
 chiefly by Danish and French masters, though the 
 ancient ones are represented as well. 
 
 Open every Sunday from 1 till 5 p.m. Admission, 
 50 ore, which goes towards the Poor Fund of the 
 village situated near it. 
 
 Mr. Carl Jakobsen, a son of Captain Jakobsen, the 
 brewer, has arranged an exhibition of French 
 sculpture to be open at the time of the International 
 Exhibition this year. 
 
 We will now retrace our steps to the chief 
 entrance to Frederiksberg Gardens, and tram 
 from there to Tivoli, dine in the principal 
 restaurant, and spend an enjoyable evening in this 
 sylvan retreat. 
 
it 
 
 i '4( 
 
 ]■■ 'II '.h 
 
 Rj 
 
 » 
 
^ 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 ASSISTANCE OHURCHYARD (OR RELIEF 
 CHURCHYARD) 
 
 (assistentskirkegaarden). 
 
 ** Peace has her victories, 
 No less renowned than war." — Milton. 
 
 This, the principal burial-ground for civilians of 
 eminence, is not much visited by ordinary tourists, 
 as it lies rather apart from the other show-places of 
 the town. Note Queen Louisa's Bridge — we pass 
 it on the road — opened last year (1887), in honour of 
 the Queen's birthday, 
 
 The suburb Norrebro communicates with the city 
 through the three streets — Gothersgade, Frederiks- 
 borggade, and Norregade. Norrebrogade leads be- 
 tween the two lakes, Peblingeso and Sortedamso, 
 with their environs of walks and portly buildings, to 
 the great churchyard of the city. 
 
 Here is the grave of Hans Christian Andersen, 
 the children's fairy-tale writer, and we must not leave 
 without placing thereon a tribute to his memory. 
 
 He rests amongst a crowd of well-known com- 
 patriots, such men as Rasmus Rask, the philologer; 
 H. 0. Orsted, the discoverer of electro-magnetism ; 
 
142 ADDENDA. 
 
 J. S. Forchhammer, the mineralogist ; S. Eschricht^ 
 the physiologist; the sculptors, Wiedewelt and 
 Bissen ; the architect, H. Ohr. Hansen ; the com- 
 poser, Glaser — all of whom have, like Andersen, 
 gone over to join the great majority, from whence 
 none return. 
 
 •* 'Tis done, and thou hast joined a crew 
 To whom thy soul was justly due ; 
 And yet, I think, where'er thou be, 
 
 They'll hardly love thee more than we ! " 
 
 Now we have seen all worth noting, for there is no 
 crematory furnace, as in Milan Cemetery, where, for 
 the modest sum of £4, 8s., you can be burnt, and 
 your ashes boxed-up in a marble pigeon-hole. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF S. STEPHEN, 
 
 Some distance further in Norrebro than the church- 
 yard, principally destined for the poor inhabitants 
 in the surrounding parts, and has been erected by 
 voluntary contributions on a piece of ground given 
 by the late Baron Lovenskjold. Constructed in 
 Gothic style, its interior is plain, but agreeable, and 
 it has a beautiful altar-piece. Inaugurated December 
 26, 1874. 
 
 MARKETS. 
 
 The markets are held in various squares of the 
 town, as in Norway and Sweden. The produce is 
 good — indeed nearly the same as you will find in any 
 central European market; but the oflPhand way of 
 
ADDENDA, 143 
 
 selling, to my thinking, somewhat impairs the 
 general effect of the whole. 
 
 Nybrogade leads along the channel to Gailimel- 
 Strand, the Fish market, and to Hojbroplads, the 
 market-place for vegetables. 
 
 To the south-east of Copenhagen lies the island of 
 Amager, which has continued to fulfil the part of 
 kitchen garden to the capital since its first occupation, 
 in 1516, by a colony of Flemings, who had been 
 brought to Denmark by Christian II. for the express 
 purpose of teaching his subjects how to cultivate 
 vegetables and flowers. 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 * * The achievements of art may amuse, 
 May even our wonder excite ; 
 But a day in the forests diffuse 
 An enchanting, everlasting delight." 
 
 CHAELOTTENLUND, DYREHAVEN, AND 
 KLAMPENBORG. 
 
 The traveller should hire an open carriage for the 
 day, and leave town about ten in the morning. The 
 round I am going to describe is one of the most 
 delightful day's outings imaginable. 
 
 After passing the cemeteries, note the Church of 
 S. Jakob; but it is new, and consequently void of 
 historic renown. Now we are on the beautiful Strand 
 Road (Strandvej), where, for ten or twelve miles, 
 stretches an almost unbroken line of country houses, 
 villas, "restorations," tea gardens, bathing-places, 
 palaces, fishing hamlets, and parks, amongst which 
 Charlottenlund and the Dyrehaven, accessible by a 
 special railway line as well as by the Strand Road, 
 are decidedly the most popular. 
 
 We turn off towards the woods of Charlotten- 
 lund, where stands the summer home of the Crown 
 Prince, familiarly called ** Skoven " (the wood) \ but 
 this in no way interferes with the freedom with which 
 
 SA 
 
THE ENVIRONS. U5 
 
 the citizens wander through the woods ; nor do any 
 restrictions bar their access to the neighbouring park 
 of BernstorfF, where the king and queen hold their 
 summer court, and where a republican simplicity 
 marks the relations maintained between sovereign 
 and people. 
 
 Near Charlottenlund is the much - frequented 
 restaurant, Constantia-on-the-Sound, the sea-baths of 
 Oharlottenlund, ten minutes' walk to the North Hotel, 
 Skovshoved, from whence there is still a walk of 
 twenty-five minutes to the Hotel Bellevue at Klam- 
 penborg. We drive for some miles till we come to 
 the Dryehave (Deer-park), a magnificent forest 
 with numerous varieties of game — stags, fallow-deer, 
 and roe-deer. Then come out on an open plain, 
 where stands, in bold relief, a pretentious-looking 
 hunting-lodge called 
 
 " HERMITAGE '' 
 
 (eremitagen), 
 
 Built for the royal sportsman. Christian VI. From 
 its many-windowed frontage, a fine view is obtained 
 of the coast-land beyond the Sound, now for ever 
 lost to Denmark. 
 
 The only room reserved for royalty is a lunching 
 hall, and the roof and walls of it are very handsomely 
 decorated in gilding, plate-glass, and plaster-work. 
 The furniture is crimson satin. The lower part of 
 the palace is converted into a restaurant by the 
 people in charge of the lodge. Not long since a 
 servant, who was on the point of committing an 
 10 
 
146 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 extensive silver-plate robbery, hanged herself on 
 being discovered. The Danes show a marked pre- 
 ference for hanging — that mode of death being 
 chosen in about seventy-five per cent, of all cases of 
 suicide. 
 
 KIRSTEN PIIL'S KILDE (WELL). 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Dyrehaven, called Dyre- 
 havsbakken, is Kirstetl Piils Kilde, which, in by- 
 gone times, drew pilgrims to this spot, through the 
 assumed healing power of its water ; and though 
 faith in its efficacy is a tale of the past, it is still the 
 centre of attraction, for here Copenhagen annually 
 enjoys a summer revel, and the most popular shows 
 in the Fair group themselves round about the well. 
 It reaches its climax of merriment and noise on St. 
 John's Eve (S. Hans. Aften) June 23rd. With us, 
 the common fern, or bracken, is said to flower at mid- 
 night, on the Eve of S. John, and whoever finds the 
 flower is supposed to be protected from all evil 
 influences, and will receive a revelation of hidden 
 mysteries. 
 
 LYNGBY 
 Takes rank after Klampenborg and Skodsberg as 
 a favourite pleasure resort of the inhabitants of Copen- 
 hagen, and deservedly so. It is seven and a half 
 miles from Copenhagen, and near the little town of 
 Lyngby is 
 
 CASTLE SORGENFRI, 
 
 Which signifies " Free from cares," celebrated for 
 its bloom of roses, but not distinguished in any 
 
THE ENVIRONS, 147 
 
 architectural respect. It stands on a small embank- 
 ment, and was the summer residence of the late King 
 Christian VIII. 
 
 The park is its great charm ; it is beautiful in its 
 simplicity, and open to the public. Through the 
 grounds runs a charming brook, and near it has been 
 erected a monument in memory of the late Queen- 
 Dowager, Caroline Amalie, widow of Christian YIII. 
 — a column of granite, with a medalion of the Queen, 
 in marble, executed by Evens. The monument bears, 
 besides the name, the following inscription : — 
 
 " Erected by Danish men and women, on the 28th 
 of June 1882. 
 
 " During sixty-five years Sorgenfri was her summer 
 residence. 
 
 "Born June 26th, 1796. 
 
 "Queen from 1839-1848. 
 
 "Died March 9th, 1881." 
 
 Hotel Rustenborg is at the station of Lyngby, 
 and Store Kro near the Palace. 
 
 At a distance of about two miles the following 
 places form a very pretty half circle round Lyngby : — 
 
 The Dyrehave (Park); the Eremitage or 
 " King's Hunting Palace ; " Klampenborg ; 
 Charlottenlund ; Fortunen ; the beautiful village 
 of Ordrup, whose charming neighbouring woods, 
 called the Copse of Ordrup, lead in a south-westerly 
 direction towards the village of Gjentofte, with its 
 pretty lakes and church of the 13th century ; also the 
 Bernstorff Castle, summer residence of the king. 
 
 On the high road in the vicinity stands a plain 
 obelisk, which the thankful peasants of Count 
 
148 TEE ENVIRONS, 
 
 BernstorfF have erected in his honour, on account of 
 his having released them from their enforced abiding 
 at home. 
 
 " Jcegersborg Dyrehave " has even greater 
 natural beauty than Kirs ten PiiPs Deer Park, but, 
 owing to its greater distance from Copenhagen, is less 
 frequented. 
 
 After visiting Dronninggaard, a dairy of con- 
 siderable size, and charmingly situated, we betake 
 ourselves in a^bye-path, in a western direction, to the 
 country-seat of Count Schulin, at Frederiksdal, 
 whose forest, beside the handsome Lake Furre or 
 " Fuursden," is undoubtedly a beautiful spot. 
 
 RAAYAD 
 
 (restaurant). 
 
 A lake near the hotel, upon which are pleasure- 
 boats, and one of the most extensive cutlery works in 
 Denmark, worked by water power. 
 
 SKODSBORG. 
 
 (badehotel, hotel oresund.) 
 
 This hotel is erected on a high embankment, 
 overlooking the sea, and the landing for steamers. 
 On the summit is the restaurant and music hall, 
 and near the hotel are two country houses that we will 
 pass in our drive to town. They were used by 
 Frederik VII. and his left-handed wife, the Countess 
 Danner. After her death the manor-house was sold, 
 together with the territory belonging to it, to an 
 
THE ENVIRONS, 149 
 
 association. The little village itself affords summer 
 dwellings to the Copenhageners. 
 
 KLAMPENBORG 
 
 (hotel bellevue), 
 
 About an English mile nearer Copenhagen than 
 Skodsborg, and twenty-five minutes' journey by rail 
 from Copenhagen ; tickets, 60, 40, and 25 ore. A 
 carriage from Copenhagen out here costs 5 kroners ; 
 to and fro 8 kroners ; Sundays, more. 
 
 It is an establishment for hydropathic regimen and 
 sea-baths j accessible, by steamer, train, or steam- tram, 
 at almost any hour during the summer months. The 
 hotel is very good; the table d'hote, together with 
 general attendance, both excellent and reasonable. 
 It stands on low ground near the turnpike, but quite 
 shut in from the road with trees ; erected in 
 1846 by a joint-stock company, and thought to be 
 almost matchless in its bfeautiful site ; it was mostly 
 designed after Professor Nebelong. Besides the Hotel, 
 there are within the grounds handsome cottages, to 
 be let with or without attendance from the hotel ; 
 ladies' and gentlemen's reading-rooms, concert hall, 
 refreshment rooms, and a good theatre, which is 
 supplied with jfirst-class actors from the Royal. Stay 
 and have tea here, or what the Danes call supper ; 
 and after refreshment you will be in a more com- 
 fortable state to enjoy the drive back to town by 
 twilight, which is picturesque in the extreme. For 
 miles there is on one side an endless open expanse of 
 water, dotted here and there with pleasure-boats. 
 
150 TEE ENVIRONS. 
 
 whilst on the other are pretty villas of various styles, 
 nestled charmingly within the shrubberies of their 
 own grounds, occasionally intercepted by illuminated 
 tea-gardens, all looking as unlike an English 
 landscape as possible. 
 
 FREDENSBORG PALACE. 
 
 " 'Tis fare ye well, my bonnie palace." 
 Fredensborg is not an imposing-looking structure 
 from the road, as the low white-washed walls give it 
 more the appearance of a barracks than a castle. 
 The only outer conspicuous feature is the glass and 
 copper-roofed dome, which gives light to the ban- 
 queting hall, in which was signed the Treaty of Peace 
 with Sweden in 1720, under Frederik IV. — hence the 
 name, " Castle of Peace." This hall is the only 
 apartment with any pretensions to size or beauty. 
 The walls are 80 feet high. An ornamental stone and 
 marble gallery runs round the four sides, connecting it 
 again with the second floor. Above this gallery are 
 twelve large oil paintings, all of them, I believe, by 
 Mandelberg. The chairs were rescued from the burn- 
 ing of Frederiksborg. 
 
 There are on the first floor about twenty reception 
 rooms, all handsomely furnished. Amongst the 
 furniture note the two screens. One was painted by 
 the present Queen Louise, wife of Christian IX., and 
 the other by Eleonore Christine Ulfeldt, daughter of 
 Christian IV., and Kirstine Munk. 
 
 Eleonore Christine was born July 8th, 1621, and 
 married Corfitz Ulfeldt, when only sixteen years of 
 age. She was beautiful and accomplished, and for this 
 
< 
 < 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 Q 
 
r 
 
TEE ENVIRONS. 151 
 
 reason, it seems, hated by the then reigning queen, 
 Sophie Amalie, daughter-in-law of Christian IV. 
 When Corfitz had been convicted of high treason, and 
 executed in G^gy, his ever true and loving wife was 
 in England, and the English Government handed her 
 over to the tender mercies of Sophie Amalie, who had 
 her imprisoned for twenty-two years in Blaataarn — a 
 dark and dismal dungeon in Copenhagen. After 
 the death of the flint-hearted Sophie Amalie 
 the poor sufferer was set at liberty, and received a 
 yearly pension, whilst the former once far-renowned 
 nunnery at Maribo was given her for a residence. 
 There she lived for thirteen years, and died in her 
 seventy-seventh year. What a sad fate ! But all the 
 ladies there do not seem to have had such a dull time, 
 as the nunnery was disestablished some years before 
 on account of the disrepute of its high-born dames. 
 
 The Garden Room is the most cheerful; the flooring 
 is of black and white marble, whilst the furniture con- 
 sists of gilt chairs and small marble-topped tables. The 
 walls and roof are ornamented with pictures, some 
 of them by Heinrich Krock. On the terrace, facing 
 this room, amongst the marble statues are some of 
 Wiedewelt's most notable works. The centre one 
 represents Denmark as seated, one hand resting on a 
 shield, bearing the escutcheon of Denmark — i.e., three 
 lions. 
 
 Amongst the numerous names of royalty scribbled 
 on the window-panes in the Garden Room (so called) 
 is conspicuous that of our amiable Princess Alexandra, 
 of whom it may be as truly said to-day as it was 
 twenty -five years ago by the Poet-Laureate — 
 
152 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 " Saxons, and Danes, and Normans are we, 
 But all of us Danes in our welcome to thee ! " 
 
 Frederik lY., founder of the Palace, showed a marked 
 predilection for it, the distance from the capital, 
 where the marriage of the king was unpopular among 
 the higher classes, being probably regarded by the 
 royal couple as not .the least of its advantages. After 
 the death of Frederik, Fredensborg continued to be 
 the favourite summer residence of the royal family 
 until the long reign of his descendant, Frederik VI., 
 who had a morbid dislike to see or hear of anything 
 that had been associated with his English mother, 
 Caroline Matilda, who is said to have spent here 
 ^he happiest days of her stay in Denmark. 
 She was evidently a keen horsewoman, and indulged, 
 it would seem, without stint or discretion, in her 
 passion for long hunting and riding excursions, in 
 which her feeble husband could take no part. This 
 amusement was, alas, counted against her as so much 
 evidence of guilt and depravity by the Danish 
 women, to whom riding was then an unknown art, 
 and even now they are no great admirers of the 
 " Tally-ho ! '' or horse tribe. 
 
 After standing empty for some years, the Palace 
 was temporarily converted into a Hampton Court, in 
 which nobly-born widows or orphans found a com- 
 modious, if somewhat dull, abode, until the death of 
 Frederik removed the royal ban from Fredensborg, 
 which, since the beginning of the present king's reign, 
 has recovered its long - obscured renown, and has 
 again become the recognised summer seat of the 
 Court. Apply at the chief entrance for permission 
 
TEE ENVIRONS. 163 
 
 to see over the Palace ; and, provided the royal 
 family are not staying there at the time, you will be 
 shown over it for a small donation. 
 
 We leave now the Garden-Room ; turning to the 
 left, come directly on the " Marble Garden," so 
 called from its profuse decorations in marble. It is 
 most tastefully laid out, especially the rose garden, 
 which is in the form of a miniature island, with a 
 white marble figure of Flora, Goddess of Flowers, in the 
 middle. From here we can wander into the woods, 
 which have a circumference of about eight miles, and 
 are the great charm of Fredensborg. More delightful 
 woodland scenery, when viewed in the wealth of its 
 summer glory, or in the golden light of autumn, it 
 would indeed be difficult to find. 
 
 Esrom is the largest of a network of small lakes, 
 afifording so much beauty to the surrounding country. 
 There is, however, none of the rugged grandeur of 
 our queen of Scottish lakes that could draw such an 
 expression from the beholder as that which Dr. 
 Chalmers gave utterance to on first beholding bonnie 
 Loch Lomond — *'Will there be a Loch Lomond 
 in Heaven It " For there are no towering hills, or 
 frowning peaks, to cast their dark shadows athwart 
 the expanse of waters. But from the Palace to 
 the shores of Esrom Lake the linden and beech trees 
 form winding alleys, one of which is called ** The 
 Avenue of Sighs," and here the trees bend their 
 majestic forms over the water, like aged men, 
 listening fondly to the prattle of a much-loved 
 child, till their great boughs sweep the rippling 
 wavelets, as though in the act of invoking a blessing. 
 
154 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 Amongst the groups of statuary near the Lake, 
 note the " Normandsdal/' — about sixty or seventy 
 weather-beaten, and rather dilapidated stone figures, 
 representing Norse men and women in their various 
 national dresses, some of them in the act of dancing, 
 and all looking very absurd. 
 
 The figures are dotted about in a damp, over- 
 shadowed hollow, having a colossal COlumn in the 
 centre ; and the efiect of this dark Yalhalla, with 
 its crippled and dismembered assembly is rather 
 depressing. 
 
 The figures owe their origin to an outburst of 
 Norwegian loyalty about the middle of the last 
 century, and not, as some affirm, to the exceptionally 
 bad taste on the part of Danish loyalty. 
 
 The town of Fredensborg has about eight hundred 
 and fifty inhabitants, and is situated in one of the 
 most romantic districts of the central part of North 
 Sealand, in the neighbourhood of Lake Esrom. 
 
 Near the station is Hansen's Restaurant -, a little 
 further along, turning to the left, we come to Store 
 Kro, where comfortable accommodation can be had. 
 From the hotel garden a magnificent view of Lake 
 Esrom is to be seen. The town is twenty English 
 miles from Copenhagen; the old castle of Frederiks- 
 borg is five miles nearer. It is better to take this 
 one first. 
 
 Now we must away, for our time, like that of many 
 more unfortunate tourists, is limited, or we could 
 have spent a whole day pleasantly in wandering 
 through the woods to Frederiksborg, instead of 
 taking the train or driving, but then we should not 
 
TEE ENVIRONS. 155 
 
 arrive in time to see over the Castle before dusk, so let 
 us drive along the road, which is under an almost 
 unbroken avenue of trees. 
 
 Cost of train to Fredensborg from Copenhagen : — 
 
 
 SINGLE. 
 
 
 RETURN. 
 
 1st 
 
 . 3 kr. 
 
 1st 
 
 Hkr. 
 
 2nd 
 
 . 2 kr. 
 
 2nd 
 
 3 kr. 
 
 3rd 
 
 . H kr. 
 
 3rd 
 
 . 2-30 kr. 
 
 FREDERIKSBORG PALACE (SLOT), 
 
 THE DANISH KENSINGTON, 
 
 Or the National Historical Museum {Det National 
 Historishe Museum), 
 
 " It's love of beauty maketh man 
 Build palaces august and fair, 
 Vast halls of just proportion plan, 
 And bring all things of beauty there." 
 
 The Castle stands five miles from the " Palace 
 of Peace," Fredensborg, which we have just left, 
 and midway between the Capital and Elsinore. It 
 is a thing of beauty, with its fair surroundings, and must 
 impress the beholders deeply. The walls of the Castle 
 rise from out of the waters, like picturesque Venice, 
 rendering it unique in its singularly grand effect, and, 
 together with the surrounding park and lakes, make 
 it one of the most perfect things in Northern Europe, 
 and a never-to-be-forgotten picture. The Castle 
 cannot possibly disappoint you, and the building 
 
156 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 itself, though comparatively new, has somehow so 
 much of apparent age about it, and, by its very 
 form, so suggestive of a past, that you are charmed 
 with it at once. 
 
 The original building was commenced by Frederik 
 II., grandfather of the unfortunate Charles I. of 
 England, and father of Christian lY. It was here 
 that the latter's love of maritime sports first showed 
 itself in the miniature fleet that he superintended on 
 its lake, while yet in his childhood^s days ; and its 
 restoration under the same king, who acted as his 
 own architect and clerk of the works, shows him to 
 have been possessed of no ordinary ability. A stone 
 is still pointed out in the park as that on which the 
 royal architect used to sit when paying his men their 
 weekly wages. Unfortunately a fire, said to have 
 originated in the billiard-room on the night of 
 December 14th, 1857 (owing in some way to the care- 
 lessness of Frederik YII. and his wife, the Countess 
 Danner, who were staying here at the time), destroyed 
 all but the outer walls. The restoration of this, the 
 noblest of the many royal residences, is now complete ; 
 it has rapidly risen from the ashes into its old shape, 
 under the able management of the architect, Mr. 
 Meldahl. Vast sums have been spent on the work, 
 and now it shines again, as in its pristine glory, a 
 fitting subject for the highest faculties of painter 
 or poet. The cost of the work has been met by grants 
 from the Diet and private subscriptions, foremost 
 amongst which ranks that of the late Herr Jacobsen 
 (a brewer), who gave £11,000 for the restoration of 
 what is called the royal wing, with a strongly- 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 157 
 
 expressed wish that it should, in the future, be used 
 for royal ceremonials and an historical museum, 
 to illustrate the progress of art and industry in 
 Denmark. 
 
 In crossing the first bridge may be noticed the two 
 round towers, the only remains of the work of 
 Frederik II. Next comes the stable-yard, from which 
 we pass under a large gate-tOwer into a second palace- 
 yard or court. To the front is the main building ; at 
 the sides the government offices, the house of the 
 clerk-of-the-stables, and the audience-house. 
 
 Passing the third bridge, numerous figures are seen 
 adorning the walls ; and now we are at the inner 
 court-yard of the castle. To the right is the Princess' 
 wing, to the left the Church wing, and facing us the 
 King's wing, by which we are going to enter. The 
 building is four stories in height, composed of red 
 stone, with ornaments in sandstone, and richly 
 decorated with sculpture, the whole surmounted with 
 towers and a steeple containing the bells. 
 
 THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 
 The Ground Floor. 
 
 NO. 1. 
 FIRST HALL (sTUEETAGEN). 
 
 2.— Statue of Thyra, "the Dane's Pride," Gorm's 
 Queen. (Modelled by F. Ring.) Queen Thyra built 
 a boundary wall for defence against the Germans, 
 whilst her husband, like a true-born Northman, was 
 engaged in piracy. 
 
158 TEE ENVIRONS, 
 
 NO. 14. 
 
 Statue of ** Saxo Grammaticus " (modelled by O. 
 Evens). This grammarian was a Dane of the Twelfth 
 century, and wrote in Latin the history of his native 
 country, in which he affirms the Danish monarchy to 
 have been founded by a person of the name of "Dan," 
 after whom the country was called " Danmark ; " that 
 he lived about the year b.c. 2910; and that the 
 country has ever since been governed by his posterity. 
 
 The name of " Saxo Grammaticus " is also asso- 
 ciated with English literature as that of the author 
 who first gave the history of Hamlet the Dane, whom 
 Shakespeare has immortalised. 
 
 Vedel, in the latter half of the Sixteenth century, 
 gave Denmark a translation of Saxo's History. 
 
 NO. 16. 
 
 Statue of King Yaldemar II., Sejr. (1170), 1202- 
 241. King Yaldemar 
 (Modelled by Th. Stein.) 
 
 1241. King Yaldemar lY., Atterdag, 1340-1375. 
 
 FiKST Floor (Iste Etage). 
 
 NO. 21. 
 
 TOWER ROOM. 
 
 On the ceiling a painting by N. Overgaard, repre- 
 senting King Christian Y., for whom the vices 
 recede. The idea was taken from an older painting, 
 which was placed before the fire. The decorations of 
 the room as it was in the time of Christian Y. before 
 the fire, this room not having been destroyed. 
 
THE ENVIRONS, 159 
 
 The Corridor of the Council. 
 
 NO. 25. 
 
 Paintings. 
 
 25. — The conspirators coming on horseback from 
 the village of Finderup after the murder of King 
 Erik Clipping, 1286. (Painted by Otto Bache.) 
 
 Furniture. 
 
 Three large carved oak chests, one of which belonged 
 to the parents of the learned Jorgen Seefelds. 
 **Ohristoffer Lauritzen Seefeld to Refsnaes, 1543- 
 1612, and his wife, Else Nielsdatter Benderup." 
 Their arms are carved on the front. 
 
 NO. 27. 
 Paintings. 
 
 King Christian I. receiving a medal from Pope 
 Sixtus lY. at the time of his visit to Rome, 1474. 
 
 (Copy taken by Y. Rosenstand from a fresco in the 
 Hospital S. Spirito at Rome.) 
 
 Four paintings by Jurian Owens (1623-1678), 
 representing diflferent historical events. (See tablets 
 fixed on the paintings.) 
 
 Bay- Windowed Room. 
 
 NO. 29. 
 
 Paintings. 
 
 The Swedish King, Albrecht of Mecklenburg, 
 presents, kneeling, his crown to Queen Margrethe, 
 
160 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 after having been made prisoner at the battle of 
 Falkoping, 1389. 
 
 Painted by Gerhard Hondhorst (1592-1664). 
 
 The city of Hamburg paying homage to King 
 Christian TV. and Duke Johan Adolf, of Holsten- 
 Oottorp. (Painted by Jurian Owens.) 
 
 NO. 30. 
 
 Bay- Windowed Room. 
 
 Bust, 
 
 Hans Tausen, Bishop of Ribe, 1494-1561. The 
 first ardent champion of the Reformation in Den- 
 mark. (Modelled by Th. Stein.) 
 
 NO. 31. 
 
 The ceiling decorations represent the stars in the 
 heavens, surrounded by symbolic personifications of 
 the planets. (Painted by N. Overgaard.) 
 
 Paintings, 
 
 1-2. — Views of Tyge Brahe's Castle on Hveen, 
 TJranieborg, and the Stjerneborg Observatory. 
 (Painted by Heinrich Hansen.) 
 
 3. — Portrait of Tyge Brahe's old housekeeper, 
 *' Live Lauritzdatter." (Painted by P. van der Hult.) 
 
 7-8. —The astronomer, Tyge Brahe, 1546-1601, 
 and the astronomer, Christen Longomontanus, 1562- 
 1647. 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 161 
 
 NO. 32. 
 Tower Room. 
 
 The ceiling after an old stuccoed ceiling at Kron- 
 borg. 
 
 A cast of the tombstone of the astronomer, Tycho 
 Brahe, in the Teiner Church, in Prague. 
 
 Second Floor. 
 
 NO. 35. 
 
 17. — King Charles I. of England, as a child (bom 
 1600), 1625-1649. 
 
 19. — Medical Professor Ole Worm, an illustrious 
 antiquarian, 1588-1654. (Copy by O. Haslund, after 
 the original in Aarhus Cathedral School.) 
 
 NO. 36. 
 
 Painting on the ceiling. " Aurora " (painted by L. 
 Tuxen) ; the rest after a motive at Gripsholm. 
 
 Paintings, 
 
 The young King Christian lY. visiting, with a couple 
 of noblemen, the old Chancellor Niels Kaas on his 
 death-bed, and receives from him the key of the Royal 
 Treasury. (Painted by Carl Bloch.) 
 
 Josias Rantzau, a Dane by birth, who entered the 
 French army, and became marshal of France 1609- 
 1650. He had sixty wounds on his body, besides 
 having lost an eye, an arm, and a leg, but, like 
 Nelson, remained the ladies' favourite. (Painted by 
 11 
 
162 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 Jean Alaux.) The copy by P. S. Kroyer, after the 
 original in the Marshal Gallery at Versailles. 
 
 The clergyman, Ole Vind, preaching before King 
 Christian IV. (Painted by C. 0. Andersen.) 
 
 Furniture, 
 
 A carved oak cupboard, a couple of chairs, an oak 
 chest, with iron mountings, and another oak chest, 
 once belonging to Henning Quitzov, to Sandager 
 (1513-1569) and Birgitte Ronnow, whose several 
 arms are carved on the front. 
 
 NO. 37. 
 
 Paintings. 
 
 9. — King Christian V. at the siege of Landskrona. 
 (Painted by Peder Andersen as cartoon to the 
 tapestry in the Knights' Hall at Rosenborg.) 
 
 Historical Engravings. 
 
 23. — King Christian IV., his coronation and pro- 
 cession. King Christian IV. holding different 
 councils with his knights in the canopied hall at the 
 Castle of Copenhagen. 
 
 24.— King Christian IV. on *'Trefoldigheden." 
 (Engraved by J. Ballin after Marstrand's painting in 
 the chapel of Christian IV. in Roskilde Cathedral.) 
 Given by the church and school department. 
 
 NO. 39. 
 
 The Knights' Hall. 
 
 The ceiling is renewed as it was before the fire of 
 1859. The decorations of the windows, and the 
 
THE ENVIRONS, 168 
 
 borders on the walls, and on the carpet before the 
 door leading to the tower stairs, are copied from 
 antique designs. 
 
 Painted Portraits, 
 7.— King George II. of England, 1727-1760. 
 
 NO. 40. 
 
 Allegorical paintings on the ceiling by L. Tuxen, 
 representing Ocean and Earth. 
 
 Engravings — (Portraits), 
 
 12-17. — Prince George of Denmark, son of 
 Frederik III., 1653-1708, and his. wife. Queen Anna 
 of England, 1714. 
 
 NO. 42. 
 
 Paintings, 
 
 4. — A meeting between Councillor Otto Krag and 
 the Burgomaster, Hans Nansen, at Hojbro, during the 
 parliament in Copenhagen, 1660. Krag, pointing to 
 the well-known prison tower, called Blaataarn, asks 
 Nansen if he knows its destination. Nansen answers 
 by pointing to the alarm bell in the tower of Our 
 Lady's Church, which could bring forth all the 
 citizens. (Painted by Heinrich Hansen.) 
 
 5. — The Swedish king, Charles X., Gustav, 
 discharging the first shot on the Dutch navy from 
 Kronborg. The navy are sailing up the Sound to the 
 relief of besieged Copenhagen, 1658. (Painted by 
 Heinrich Hansen.) 
 
164 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 Busts, 
 
 1. — The Treasurer Ohristoffer Gabel. (Modelled by 
 A. W. Saaby.) 
 
 NO. 43. 
 
 Painted Portraits, 
 
 1.— King Christian V., 1648-1699. 
 
 2. — Queen Charlotte Amalie as Crown Princess, 
 1650-1714. 
 
 9, 10. — Charles, Landgreve of Hessen-Kassel, 1654- 
 1730, brother of Queen Charlotte Amalie. 
 
 21.— Niels Juel, admiral, 1629-1697. 
 
 22.— Peder Griffenfeld, chancellor, 1635-1699. 
 
 NO. 47. 
 
 Painted Portraits, 
 
 1. — King Frederik IV. as a youth (born 1671), 
 1699-.1730. (Painted by Rigaud.) 
 
 2, 3. — The same, a few years later. 
 
 8.— -Ivar Hvitfeld, commodore, 1665-1710. He 
 fell in battle in the Bay of Kjogebugt, when the ship 
 Dannehrog blew up. (Copy by K. Zahrtmann after 
 the original, which belongs to the Consul Hvitfeld 
 in Trondhjem. 
 
 9.— Peter Tordenskjold, 1691-1720. (Copy by K. 
 Zahrtmann after the original in the old northern 
 collection in Christiania.) 
 
THE ENVIRONS, 165 
 
 Engraved Portraits, 
 
 1-4. — King Frederik IV. and his queens, Louise 
 of Mecklenburg and Anna Sophie Reventlow, 
 1693-1743. 
 
 Furniture. 
 
 A collection of inlaid furniture, particularly a 
 Chest that once belonged to Lieutenant-General 
 Johan Georg Moltke, 1764 ; married to the Baroness 
 Wolzogen. 
 
 NO. 48. 
 
 Pictures in the Ceiling, 
 
 The Bishop Hans Tausen, 1491-1561. 
 
 The Bishop Peder Blade, 1503-1560. 
 
 The Bishop Hans Poulsen Resen, 1561-1638. 
 
 The Bishop Jesper Brochmand, 1585-1652. 
 
 (Painted by Overgaard.) 
 
 Painted Portraits. 
 
 11. — Caroline of Anspach, Queen of England, 
 1757 ; married to King George II. of England. 
 
 NO. 49. 
 
 Painted Portraits. 
 
 2.— King Frederik V., 1746-1766. (Painted by 
 Pilo.) 
 
 3. — Queen Louise, Princess of England, 1724-1751. 
 (Painted by Pilo.) 
 
1^6 TEE ENVIRONS. 
 
 Furniture, 
 
 A collection of furniture in the rococco style, 
 particularly a corner cupboard with Queen Juliane 
 Marie's coronet and monogram, and a cabinet 
 bequeathed to the Museum by the Councillor of 
 State, 0. P. Schonning. 
 
 The Oorridor parallel with no. 48 and 49. 
 
 Sculptures, 
 
 4.— Ludvig Holberg, 1684-1754. Statuette. 
 (Modelled by Th. Stein.) 
 
 NO. 50. 
 
 Decorations of the ceiling after a design in Calmar 
 Castle. 
 
 Painted Portraits, 
 
 1.— King Christian VII., 1766-1808. (Painted 
 by P. Als.) 
 
 Engravings and Lithographs, 
 
 2. — Johannes Ewald, poet, 1743-1781. Johan 
 Herman Wessel, poet, 1742-1785. 
 
 NO. 51. 
 
 The ceiling, after a design in the Town Hall at 
 Liineburg. 
 
 Painted Portraits. 
 
 1.— King Frederik VI., 1808-1839. (Painted by 
 Eckersberg.) 
 
TEE ENVIRONS. 167 
 
 12. — Johan Ewald, Lieutenant-General, 1744-1813. 
 (Painted by Ohr. Alb. Jensen.) 
 
 21. — Peter Erasmus Miiller, Bishop of Sealand, 
 1776-1834. (Painted by his son, Adam Muller.) 
 
 29. — Johan Ohr. Drewsen, paper manufacturer, 
 and editor of Land Economist, 1777-1851. (Painted 
 by J. Roed.) 
 
 32.— Albert Thorvaldsen. (Painted by Chr. Alb. 
 Jensen.) 
 
 37. — Carl Fried, L. T. Rumohr, baron, and art- 
 historian, 1785-1843. (Painted by W. Marstrand.) 
 
 44. — Musical evening party at the merchant 
 Waage-Petersen's ; with portraits of the conductor 
 0. N. Schall j the composer Zinck ; the conductors 
 F. T. Wexschall, Frolich, and Bredahl ; the 
 Professors Mathison-Hansen, Hartmann, Weyse, 
 Eckersberg, W. Marstrand, etc. (Painted by W. 
 Marstrand.) 
 
 Furniture. 
 
 A collection of furniture from the time of King 
 Frederik YI., particularly an arm-chair that belonged 
 to King Frederik VI. himself, and a fire-screen with 
 ornamentations by Abildgaard, representing the 
 Temple of Happiness. 
 
 NO. 52. 
 
 Paintings. 
 
 2.— Queen Caroline Amalie, 1796-1881. (Painted 
 by Cour.) 
 
168 THE ENVIROFS, 
 
 1.— King Christian YIII., 1839-1848. (Painted 
 by Cour.) 
 
 NO. 53. 
 
 Paintings, 
 
 4. — Hans Birch Dahlerup, Danish Commodore 
 Captain ; entered Austrian service 1848, and became 
 vice-admiral and baron, 1790-1872. (Painted by 
 N. P. Holbech.) 
 
 NO. 54 (6), The Corridor parallel with no. 53. 
 Lithographs. 
 3. — Johan Ludvig Lund, Professor of the Art 
 Academy, historical painter, 1777-1867. Just Ulrik 
 Jerndorflf, painter, 1806-1847. 
 
 First Floor (Forste Etage). 
 
 NO. 56. 
 
 Paintings, 
 
 1. — An episode from the Danish troops' march into 
 Flensborg after the battle at Bov, April 9th, 1848. 
 (Painted by F. C. Lund.) 
 
 2. — Danish hussars lying in ambush on the heath 
 outside Dannevirke. Early morning towards the 
 end of summer, 1850. (Painted by J. Sonne.) 
 
 NO. 57. 
 Paintings. 
 5. — Elizabeth Baumann Jerichau, married to the 
 sculptor, A. Jerichau (painter), 1819-1881. (Painted 
 by herself.) 
 
TEE ENVIRONS. 16^ 
 
 9. — Jorgen Valentin Sonne, historical painter, born 
 1801. (Painted by J. Roed.) 
 
 10. — Hermann Vilhelm Bissen, sculptor, 1798- 
 1868. (Painted by W. Marstrand.) 
 
 NO. 59. 
 
 Paintings on the Ceiling, 
 
 The States of the Kingdom of Denmark paying 
 tithes. (Painted by L. Tuxen.) 
 
 Busts, 
 1. — King Christian IX. 
 2. — Queen Louise. 
 
 (Marble busts, modelled by H. V. Bissen.) 
 
 NO. 60. 
 Painting on the ceiling representing a meeting 
 between Jupiter and Juno. 
 
 Painted Portraits, 
 2. — Niels Yilhelm Gade, professor and composer, 
 born 1817. (Painted by 0. Bloch.) 
 
 NO. 61. 
 Painted Portraits, 
 
 Johan Nicolai Madvig, minister of ecclesiastical 
 affairs and of public instruction, privy councillor of 
 conference, born 1804. (Painted as E/Cctor-Magnificus 
 at the feast of the 400 Years Jubilee of the University 
 in the year 1879.) (Painted by 0. Bloch.) 
 
 A. F. Krieger, Lord Chief-Justice of the Upper 
 Court. (Painted by C. Bloch.) 
 
170 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 NO. 62. 
 
 E. Suenson, Vice- Admiral (born 1805), standing on 
 the bridge of the frigate Niels Juel during the battle 
 of Heligoland, May 9th, 1864. (Painted by O. 
 Bache.) 
 
 Cost of admission to the Palace, 30 ore for one 
 person. 
 
 THE CHAPEL. , 
 
 Its restoration was completed in 1874, and it again 
 exhibits its former elaborate rococco ornamentation 
 and resplendent colouring, now used as a parish 
 church. The beautifully-carved oak door at the 
 entrance is worthy of notice. As you pass into the 
 middle of the chapel, stand and view the whole while 
 the sun is shining, and the first impression, with the 
 reflection from the stained-glass windows and the 
 sparkling silver, you will find almost overpowering. 
 All is in perfect harmony. The chapel is small, 
 having only a length of about fifty-four yards, with a 
 breadth and height in proportion. The silver-gilt 
 and ebony altar and pulpit were saved from the fire, 
 and now form most precious memorials of Christian 
 IV. and the former splendour of Frederiksborg. The 
 ebony is all profusely but tastefully mounted with 
 mother-of-pearl and silver. The pulpit is ornamented 
 by six silver Cupids, each about half-a-yard in length, 
 standing out from the ebony background, and also 
 separated by two elegantly-carved silver pillars. The 
 ceiling is arched. An ornamental gallery runs round 
 three sides of the chapel, and on the fourth side, 
 which is behind the organ, it forms two private 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 171 
 
 prayer-rooms, one of which was used by the king, 
 and the other by those in waiting. The gallery is 
 held up by pillars, ornamented with alabaster figures. 
 There is only one new picture in the chapel, as 
 there was time to cut the others out of their frames. 
 ft. It is by Rgfd, and is called The Crucifixion. In 
 the centre of this picture is our Saviour on the cross, 
 and on either side of him the two thieves ; at the foot 
 of the cross is Mary, the mother of Christ. To the 
 right, the Apostle St. John, and also some soldiers 
 throwing dice for the cloak of the Saviour. To the 
 left, soldiers marching off. In the foreground, to the 
 right, the executioner, and a mother and her child 
 flying away in terror. In the foreground, to the left, 
 is Caiaphas, who is leaving the spot, and also the 
 Roman chaplain of the guard ; to the right of him is 
 Pilate. The two latter are on horseback. In the 
 background is Jerusalem, with a dark, lowering sky. 
 
 On either side of the window recesses hang the 
 coats-of-arms of the Order of the Knights of 
 the Elephant and those of the Grand Cross of 
 Dannebrog, Denmark's national ensign, with its 
 white cross on a blood-red field. This ensign is in 
 commemoration of a victory over the Pagan Wends, 
 by Valdemar II., in 1219, when, according to 
 popular belief, the Dannebrog was miraculously 
 displayed before the eyes of both the armies, just 
 as the Danes were giving way. The sight of the 
 emblem of their faith gave to each Christian 
 ♦ Dane the strength of ten men, whilst the Pagans 
 fell back affrighted at the vision ; and before another 
 
172 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 day dawned the Dannebrog waved over the heads 
 of thousands of converts, who had been signed 
 with the cross by Andreas Sunesen, the Danish 
 Primate, to whose prayers on the field of battle 
 is attributed Denmark's possession of her cherished 
 national standard. 
 
 The old organ dates from the time of Christian 
 IV. The stained-glass window behind was a gift to 
 the church by Sir Morton Peto. At the other end 
 of the chapel stands the handsome silver organ, which 
 was repaired after the fire ; and behind it is — 
 
 THE PRAYER-ROOM OF CHRISTIAN IV. 
 
 It will not, of course, bear comparison with the 
 
 Sistine Chapel, where Michael Angelo has, with his 
 
 matchless technical skill, unfolded the history of 
 
 man's Redemption; — that must stand unrivalled to 
 
 the end of time, as the highest standard of art. But, 
 
 like Rubens, Bloch may be said to have made a name 
 
 for his country in the world of art, for his pictures 
 
 are, like those of Gu stave Dord's, nothing short of 
 
 inspiration, though very differently proportioned. 
 
 Both artists have adopted the white robing that so 
 
 appropriately represents the spotless Lamb of God, 
 
 and it is very refreshing after the hackneyed red and 
 
 blue of the old masters. To the lovers of pictorial 
 
 art, I venture to say, more genuine enjoyment will be 
 
 found in contemplating this limited collection, than 
 
 in travelling over miles of canvas covering the walls 
 
 of an annual exhibition. Bloch's paintings may be 
 
 divided into two classes — Historical and Religious, 
 
 In both he is eminently successful, and the subjects 
 
 U 
 
TEE ENVIRONS. 173 
 
 chosen are always worthy of the talent displayed. 
 In the treatment of History he is free and vigorous, 
 but in matters of Religion all is soft, tender, and 
 subdued ; nor is Nature lost sight of, but rather 
 elevated and chastened by the magic of his touch. 
 
 The following is a list of the pictures by Bloch : — 
 
 1. 'The Annunciation.* 
 
 2. * Mary's Visit to Elizabeth.' 
 
 3. * Angels telling the news to the Shepherds.' 
 
 4. * The Nativity : the Shepherds paying homage.' 
 
 5. * The Flight to Egypt : Mary and the Holy Child asleep : 
 
 Joseph watching.' 
 
 6. * The Slaughter of the Innocents.' 
 
 7. * Christ, twelve years old, teaching in the Temple.' 
 
 8. * Christ baptised by John the Baptist.' 
 
 9. * The Temptation.' 
 
 10. 'The Marriage at Cana.' 
 
 11. * Christ at the Well, Talking with the Woman of Samaria.* 
 
 12. * Christ Restoring Sight to the Blind.' 
 
 13. * The Sermon on the Mount.' 
 
 14. 'Christ Turning the Money-changers out of the Temple.* 
 
 15. * Christ Blessing little Children.' 
 
 16. * The Transfiguration.' 
 
 17. * The Raising of Lazarus.' 
 
 18. *The Last Supper.' 
 
 19. * Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane.' 
 
 20. 'Peter's Denial.' 
 
 21. * The Descent from the Cross.' 
 
 22. 'In the Tomb.' 
 
 23. ' The Resurrection.' 
 
 " Christ is arisen, 
 
 The Lord hath ascended ; 
 The dominion of death 
 And corruption is ended." — Goethe* 
 
174 TEE ENVIRONS, 
 
 The names of the kings who were crowned in the 
 chapel are, Christian V., Frederik VI., and Christian 
 YIII. Frederik YII., like the present king, was 
 simply elected, not crowned. 
 
 A small gratuity is expected from visitors to the 
 sexton, who shows them over the chapel. Owing to 
 the great influx of visitors on Sundays, the many 
 objects of interest cannot be seen to such advantage 
 as on other days, 
 
 THE GARDENS, 
 
 With their box-cut hedges, terraces, straight walks, 
 and broad avenues, still show traces of the stiff 
 style of the age of Christian lY ; but in the adjoining 
 Dyrehave, if we except an occasional incongruity in 
 the form of a Gothic bathing-house, a chalet 
 fishing-hut, or a Greek temple summer- 
 house, nothing has been done to detract from the 
 natural beauty of the spot. 
 
 THE TOWN OF HILLEROD 
 
 Does not possess attractions for the tourist, and is 
 solely known as the nearest station to Frederiksborg 
 and the lake of Hillerod, in which the castle stands. 
 The term "tortoise-like" might well be applied to the 
 town and its inhabitants, for they seem to be quite 
 content with their one great building, the castle. Yet, 
 in an age of hurry and bustle like our own, it is w^ell 
 there are such places. If Mr. Ruskin has never been, 
 he ought to go and be charmed, for it is in many 
 things the very ideal he has laboriously elaborated 
 through the hundreds of pages of Fors Clavigera — a 
 
THE ENVIRONS, 175 
 
 place where the people directly or indirectly live by 
 agriculture, and where new ways, if admitted at all, 
 will be admitted under protest. 
 
 Now let us view the setting sun, as its dying glory 
 illuminates the turrets of the magnificent castle, and 
 burnishes the waters of the Lake of Hillerod ; then 
 adjourn to the Hotel LeidersdorfF, facing the lake 
 before mentioned, and, after refreshing the inner^man^ 
 take the train back to Copenhagen. 
 
 ROSKILDE. 
 
 " Oh ! sweetly they slumber, 
 Nor love, hope, nor fear ; 
 Peace, peace is the watch-word — 
 The only one here." 
 
 To the west of Copenhagen, by railway, about 
 sixteen English miles. The first railway opened in 
 Denmark, 1847, was between this, the ancient capital 
 and Copenhagen. 
 
 Roskilde derives its name from the Pagan king 
 Hroar (Hroarskilde it was first called), who founded 
 it in the fifth century, and for 500 years it was the 
 capital of Denmark ; but now there is little more to 
 see than its Cathedral, which was founded by 
 Canute the Holy in 1084, who was afterwards 
 murdered by his own people in St. Alban's Church, 
 Odense. Canute the Great, after quarrelling with 
 his brother-in law, Ulf Jarl, over a game of draughts, 
 caused him to be murdered at the altar-steps of 
 Trefoldighed's Church at Roskilde ; and to atone for 
 this disgraceful deed, he gave all the ground belonging 
 to him to the Cathedral at Roskilde, which is alsa 
 
176 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 called St. Lucii. This Canute the Great was also 
 •our king. 
 
 ** Merry sang the mouks of Ely, 
 As the king was passing by. 
 
 *Row to the shore, knights,' said Canute the king, 
 * And let us hear those churchmen sing.' " 
 
 The beautiful Cathedral is in the Roman style, and 
 stands almost oa the site where once stood a temple 
 of Odin, the Norseland All Father, whose existence 
 ■can hardly be doubted, so well is it borne out by the 
 traditions prevalent throughout the Scandinavian 
 territories. Scandinavia is said to have been con- 
 quered by Odin about forty years before the birth of 
 Christ, and Sweno, a contemporary of Saxo Gram- 
 maticus, traces the foundation of the Danish monarchy 
 to Sligold, son of Odin, thus following the statements 
 of the Icelandic chronicles. 
 
 Odin held the first place amongst the gods, and 
 was ^supposed to own two ravens, ** Huggin " and 
 ** Munnin " — Mind and Memory — which sat on his 
 shoulders, and gave him tidings of what they saw 
 and heard in their daily flight over earth and sea ; in 
 consequence of which great sacrifices were made 
 overy seven or nine years, to which fiocked crowds of 
 Vikingers, eager to secure a rich harvest in the 
 future by devoting to the divinity, who was thought 
 to value money above all earthly things, a portion of 
 the wealth they had gained. Piracy, as England 
 knows to her cost, was a recognised calling with the 
 Norseland kings and their subjects, who saw nothing 
 discreditable in taking to their ships and the seas in 
 order to plunder. 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 177 
 
 The significant petition found in many ancient 
 litanies, " to be delivered from the ire of the Norse- 
 men," goes far towards showing what formidable 
 invaders they were ; and listeners, at a certain spot in 
 Basham Harbour, in Sussex, can yet, it is said, hear 
 the sounds of the church bell which was carried off, 
 some hundreds of years ago, by the profane Danish 
 invaders, and which was miraculously passed through 
 the bottom of the ship into the sea. There, near the 
 church, where it once hung, lies the bell to this day ; 
 and when the chimes in Basham Tower ring, the lost 
 bell joins in the chorus — at least, so the legend 
 affirms. And if you go to Christiatlia, you will see a 
 real Viking ship, and be able to form a better idea 
 of the adventurous life of the Viking voyager. The 
 present church stands out in bold relief on a flat 
 plain, and has a picturesque appearance, with its 
 lofty spires and projecting chapels in the transepts. 
 
 Inside the church are several altar-pieces of the 
 Thirteenth Century; a piece of clock-WOrk with 
 figures striking the hours, dating from the Fifteenth 
 Century; a pulpit, font, and pew-royal of the 
 Seventeenth Century. The Organ, that sublime 
 instrument which, like the violin, expresses, to my 
 mind, all the feelings of the human heart, is of the Six- 
 teenth Century. I wish you might hear HandePs, " I 
 know that my Redeemer liveth," whilst you are con- 
 templating the monuments of kings and queens, 
 besides a host of historic worthies, to whom death has 
 shown no more respect than to the veriest beggar in 
 the street. The sight of their coffins calls to memory 
 some lines on a gravestone in Elgin churchyard — 
 12 
 
178 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 ^' If lyfe were a thing that monie could buy, 
 The poor could not live, and the rich would not die." 
 
 All the Danish kings, unfortunately, are not resting 
 here. The brave Yaldemars were buried in S. Bendt's 
 Church at Ringsted, and " Gorm the Old," founder of 
 the Danish monarchy, was buried at Vejle in Jutland. 
 
 Each division has its king ; one bishop, William (of 
 blessed memory). 
 
 The monuments are erected, some about the choir, 
 others near the altar, and several in special chapels. 
 But the burial-places of many kings are not distinctly 
 known, and the rest are not arranged in historical 
 order, or catalogued like mummies in a museum. So 
 I will only attempt to draw your attention to a few 
 deserving special notice. 
 
 We will commence with Harald Blaatatld and 
 Svend Estridsen, who rest in mural niches in 
 the north-western division of the choir. Harald Blaa- 
 tand (Bluetooth) was a son of Gorm the old, who 
 founded the independent monarchy of Denmark. 
 Harald had received his religious teaching from his 
 mother Thyra, and, together with his wife Grinild, 
 received Christian baptism, and was the first 
 Christian king who raised, in honour of the Trinity, 
 a wooden church, which thenceforth ranked as the 
 cathedral of the diocese. Harald died in battle, 
 A.D. 991. 
 
 The other king, Svend Est rid en, caused Harold's 
 wooden structure to be replaced by a handsome stone 
 building, part of which stills remains, although the outer 
 walls, which were destroyed by fire in the Thirteenth 
 Century, have more than once been renovated, 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 179 
 
 and only thoroughly restored in 1872. Svend 
 Estriden (son of the powerful Jarl Ulf of Norway) 
 began for Denmark a new church era ; for, though 
 infirm in body, he bears the character of having 
 been proficient in learning, and chose his friends from 
 among the clergy. This king was founder of a 
 dynasty which lasted four hundred years. His second 
 son, Knud TV, (Canute), an ambitious and warlike 
 prince, was slain before the altar, at which he had 
 taken refuge from pursuit, for favouring the clergy 
 and overtaxing the nation. Then, in 1101, his 
 remains were canonised, and he was proclaimed the 
 patron saint of Denmark. 
 
 Near these mural niches, in the nave of the church, 
 
 is the black marble sarcophagus of the renowned 
 Queen Margaret of Scandinavia, surmounted by 
 
 her recumbent effigy, and ornamented by alabaster bas- 
 reliefs. According to tradition, there was buried with 
 her the noted whetstone which she received from her 
 kinsman and rival, Albrecht of Mecklenburg, King of 
 Sweden, with the insulting message, that she would 
 do well " to sharpen her needles, and leave swords to 
 men ; " a taunt which she repaid in kind, when the 
 fortune of war threw Albrecht into her power, by 
 ordering him to be brought into her presence, clad in 
 a woman's gown, and wearing a fool's cap three ells 
 long (six feet), since he had not known how to fight 
 in men's attire. The name of the *' Northern 
 Semiramis " has been given this queen, daughter of 
 Valdemar III. By the death of her father and her 
 son, his successor, she became Queen of Denmark ; 
 and by the death of her husband, Hacon VIIT., 
 
180 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 King of Norway, she succeeded to the throne of that 
 kingdom also. She then turned her arms against 
 the Swedish monarch, and united the three kingdoms 
 — called the Calmar Union. Margaret of Scandin- 
 avia is said to have possessed considerable beauty of 
 person and unusual powers of fascination, like Mary 
 of Scotland, whom some men are in love with even to 
 this day. 
 
 Christian I., 1448-1481, father of the Oldenburg 
 line, whose daughter married James III. of Scotland. 
 The old fresco paintings in this chapel have been 
 quite restored. 
 
 Christian III., 1536-1559. Under this king the 
 Lutheran faith was established in Denmark. The 
 chapel is well worth special notice. 
 
 Frederik II., 1559-1588. It was this king who 
 waged a seven years' war with the king of Sweden, 
 to decide which might bear three crowns on his 
 escutcheon. Lliomme propose, etc. Death ended the 
 contest. 
 
 The Mortuary Chapel of Christian IV., the 
 
 sight of which makes one meditative. *'Men may come 
 and men may go," but of the place Christian holds in 
 the affections of the living " time but the impression 
 deeper makes, as streams their channel deeper wear." 
 This chapel is, indeed, a striking feature in the 
 church, and is enclosed within a screen of the Seven- 
 teenth Century. The frescoes are by Eddelien and 
 Marstrand, and represent events in the life of 
 Christian. In one we see him on board his ship, the 
 frigate Trefoldigheden — the Trinity — where he lost 
 one eye and damaged the other. The dying are 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 181 
 
 strewn about the deck at his feet, while he holds in 
 his right hand his sword, and with the other protects 
 the injured eye. In the middle of the chapel stand, 
 side by side, the coffins of the king and his queen, the 
 beautiful Anna Cathrine of Brandenburg. On the 
 former lies the sword which he bore in battle, and 
 which, with its many ounces of silver-work, must 
 have needed a giant's strength to wield. 
 
 Frederik IV., 1699-1730. This king, with his 
 queens, Louise of Mecklenburg and Anna Sophie 
 Reventlow, have a special chapel. 
 
 Frederik V., 1746-1766, has beside him his 
 Queens, Louise, the much-beloved daughter of 
 George II. of England, and Juliane Marie, of 
 Brunsvig. In this chapel, built by Harsdoff, is a 
 white marble monument by Thorvaldsen's master, 
 Wiedewelt, which forms a somewhat too glaring 
 centre to a crowd of less pretentious coffins, down to 
 the last male representative of the Oldenborg line, 
 Frederik VIL, whose plain light oak coffin is 
 crowned by a golden wreath of oak leaves, resting 
 on a velvet cushion, placed under a glass shade. 
 This wreath was presented by the women of Denmark 
 in recognition of the constitutional privileges he had 
 conferred upon their brethren. Frederik's morganatic 
 wife, the Countess Banner, lies in the churchyard 
 belonging Holmens Kirke. 
 
 Next, the vaults may be inspected, where rest the 
 princelings belonging to the royal couples. Alto- 
 gether there are thirty - one kings and queens 
 buried in the church, and forty-six princes and 
 princesses. 
 
182 
 
 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 On the western side of the principal aisle there has 
 been erected, since 1879, an alabaster figure of the 
 nineteen-year-old son of King Valdemar (brother of 
 Queen Margaret of Scandinavia), on a sarcophagus by 
 Bardiglio. This 'figure was found in a chest in the 
 church, and was restored by the sculptor, Bissen 
 jun. There are also three shields and a tournament 
 helmet grouped round it. 
 
 The plate on the cover bears the following inscrip- 
 tion : — 
 
 " Christopher, fourth son of King Yaldemar. Born 
 1344. Died June 11, 1363." 
 
 This, his portrait, has been restored and erected, 
 1879. 
 
 BISHOP WILLIAM (Wilhelm). 
 
 The name of this prelate, no unworthy rival of St. 
 Ambrose, should be embalmed in history. He was 
 an Anglo-Saxon ecclesiastic, whom the Archbishop of 
 Bremen had nominated to that dignity, and who had 
 previously been the secretary of Canute the Great. 
 During the long period he governed the diocese of 
 Roskilde, he won the esteem of all men alike by his 
 talents and his virtues. 
 
 One incident in connection with Bishop William's 
 life I would like to relate here from Dr. Dunham's 
 History of Scandinavia : — " Sweyn II., a man of 
 strong passions, gave a feast to his chief nobles in the 
 city of Rioskilde. Some of the guests, heated with 
 wine, indulged in imprudent^ though perhaps true, 
 remarks on his conduct. The following morning 
 some ofllcious tale-bearers acquainted him with the 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 183 
 
 circumstance, and, in the rage of the moment, the king 
 ordered them to be put to death, though they were 
 then at mass in the cathedral — the very cathedral 
 which had been the scene of his own father's murder. 
 On the following day, Sweyn proceeded to the 
 church, and was met by Bishop William, who, elevating 
 the crosier, commanded him to retire, which he 
 did, after a lecture from the Bishop. 
 
 ** Arrived at his palace, he assumed the garb of 
 penance, wept and prayed, and lamented his crime 
 during three days; then presented himself, 
 in the same mean apparel, before the gates of the 
 Cathedral. The Bishop was in the midst of the 
 service ; the " Kyrie Eleison " had been chanted, 
 and the ** Gloria " about to commence, when he was 
 informed that the royal penitent was outside the 
 
 " Leaving the altar, he repaired to the spot, raised 
 the suppliant monarch, and greeted him with the kiss 
 of peace. To mitigate the canonical penance, the 
 king presented one of his domains to the church. It 
 is no disparagement to the honour of this apostolic 
 churchman that he had previously been the intimate 
 friend of the monarch ; nor to that of Sweyn, that, 
 after this event, he honoured the Bishop more than 
 he had done before." 
 
 Under a simple stone lies Denmark's king 
 in the realms of mind — Saxo, the grammarian, or the 
 " Learned Man." He is said to have died at 
 Eoskilde in 1204. 
 
 Pay the sexton 2 kr. for 1-3 persons; 4 kr. for 
 4-10 persons. 
 
184 THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 TRAINS 
 
 From Copenhagen to Roskilde : — 
 
 SINGLE. RETURN. 
 
 1st class . 1 kr. 80 ore 
 
 2nd ,, . 1 ,, 50 ,, 
 
 3rd „ . 1 „ 15 „ 
 
 1st class . 3 kr. 40 ore 
 2nd ,, . 2 „ 50 „ 
 
 3rd „ . 1 ,, 60 ,, 
 
 HOTEL FREDERIKSSTAD 
 In the Square, opposite the Station. 
 
 ELSmORE 
 (helsingor). 
 
 This is the only town of any importance on the 
 N.E. of Sealand, and best known to us under the 
 classic name, ^^ Elsinorey Do not let us go by rail ; 
 it is so slow, like the town itself ; it is hardly pos- 
 sible to find a slower out of Spain. To make the 
 journey by steamer is, to my mind, far the pleasantest 
 — smooth water all the way. The steamer touches at 
 Bellevue, Taarbaek, Skodsborg, and Vedbaek. 
 It was here that the impetuous young king, Sweden's 
 Lion, Charles XII., encamped with his army in 1700, 
 with the intention of marching to Copenhagen, and 
 carrying war to the very gates of the capital, in 
 which his cousin, Frederik IV., was making hasty 
 preparations to oppose the unexpected invaders. 
 
 At Vedbaek is the park of Count Danneskjold, 
 ** Samsoe,'' which is accessible to the public. From 
 the park may be seen the island of Hveen, where 
 Tycho Brahe, the renowned Danish astronomer, had 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 185 
 
 built his observatories. Then the steamer touches at 
 Rungsted) where there is a monument to the 
 Danish poet, Johannes Ewald who wrote the well- 
 known song, beginning — 
 
 ** King Christian stood by the lofty mast. 
 
 Rungsted, a fishing village, seven and a-half miles 
 from Elsinore, and also much frequented by Oopen- 
 hageners, more especially on account of there being 
 piers for the steamers to land at. The steamer 
 then touches at Humlebsek, Snekkersten, Helsingor, 
 and stops at Helsingborg, in Sweden. (We leave at 
 Helsingor.) 
 
 The town of Elsinore lays claim to high antiquity, 
 for here the Sound dues were levied by the Danish 
 kings from the earliest historic times. 
 
 Denmark held the only key that opened a water- 
 way to the Baltic for the nations of south-western 
 Europe. She lost her golden ^^g and sunk to her 
 present position in 1857, when compelled by the 
 other maritime nations to accept one hundred and 
 fifty-three million rigsdaler (nearly seventeen million 
 pounds), in compensation for taxes on trading-vessels. 
 Since then the Swedish land batteries have answered 
 the Danish guns of Kronborg from across the waters 
 of that narrow strait, till it has lost even the sem- 
 blance of strength, and is nothing more than a small, 
 inactive seaport. 
 
 Yet Elsinore is well worth a visit. No artist could 
 wish for a better subject than this weird, old shadow 
 of a town, the sepulchre of a forgotten dynasty^ 
 
186 . THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 TRAINS TO ELSINORE. 
 
 Eight Danish miles by the Seal and Northern Rail- 
 way. Two hours' journey. Cost — 3 kr., 2 kr., and 1 
 kr. 50 ore. Five trains run during the day. 
 
 Travellers with direct ticket to Helsingborg (cost, 
 4 kr. 10, 3 kr. 10, and 2 kr. 40) are, at Elsinore, 
 driven to the port in a special carriage. 
 
 STEAMERS. 
 
 One or two times a- day to Elsinore, in two and 
 a-half hours, for 1 kr. 50 ore, 1 kr. 
 
 To Helsingborg, in three hours, for 2 kr., 1 kr. 
 50 5re. 
 
 Depart from Copenhagen at the corner of 
 Havnegade and Charlottenborg. 
 
 On Sundays, usually pleasure-trips (Lystture), at 
 reduced prices, to and fro in a day. 
 
 Hotel (Eresund, near the station ; Hotel Nord, not 
 far from the landing for steamers. 
 
 KRONBORG. 
 
 Five minutes walk from the steamer-landing. But 
 the charmingly picturesque exterior of Kronborg 
 is seen to the greatest advantage from the sea, with its 
 fine lighthouse and three hundred and sixty-five 
 spires, emblematic of the days of the year. It is on 
 the Flag-battery (Flag-batteriet), where the 
 Dannebrog is waving, that Shakespeare, in his 
 " Hamlet,'' makes the ghost of the Danish king 
 wander past the guards. 
 
 The Castle was built by Frederik II. between 
 1574 and 1585, to command the entrance to the 
 Sound, whilst Denmark yet controlled both shores. 
 
THE ENVIROJS/S, 187 
 
 It was here that the same king received the Order of 
 the Garter at the hands of Lord Willoughby (see 
 Rosenborg Castle for particulars). In the innermost 
 court stands the fortress church, and the wing 
 designed for the use of the royal family. Here 
 Caroline Matilda was confined after the court revolu- 
 tion. No other royalty has ever occupied the 
 apartments. 
 
 Amongst the paintings that adorn the castle is a por- 
 trait of Ruben's daughter by the great master himself. 
 
 There is also one, by Abildgaard, of Hamlet, the 
 immortal Dane. 
 
 As" an actor, the triumph of Shakespeare's per- 
 formance is said to have been the ghost in his own 
 '' Hamlet." 
 
 Kronborg is also the scene of many Danish legends. 
 Deep in the vaults below rests the guardian spirit of 
 Denmark — "Holger Danske " (the Dane), well known 
 from H. C. Andersen's fairy tales. 
 
 HOLGER DANSKE 
 
 (CHARLES THE GREAT's PALADIN OLGAR) 
 
 ** Wrapt in slumber, awaiting the hour when the 
 Fatherland shall stand in the sorest need of his 
 strong arm." 
 
 An old Saga, which bears his name, tells, in a racy 
 Danish vernacular, of a peasant who went into the 
 dungeons, and lighted upon an oaken door, fastened 
 by a huge bar of iron ; he withdrew the bar, and 
 straightway the door swung open, and there came 
 forth a mighty voice, saying, **Is it time?" Sore 
 dismayed was the peasant, yet he stood fast and 
 
188 THE ENVIRONS, 
 
 peered into the darkness to see what this might be, 
 and then he was aware of a man in rusty mail, lying 
 upon the floor — larger by far than all the men of that 
 day — with a white beard that reached to his girdle, 
 and a blood-rusted sword across his lap. Once more 
 he lifted up his voice and asked, ** Is it time % " 
 
 But the hind he bethought himself, and answered, 
 "Not yet!" 
 
 ** Then give me thy hand," said the giant. 
 
 But the peasant knew well that in that grasp his 
 hand would fare as corn beneath the flail ; wherefore, 
 instead thereof, he held out the bar of the door. 
 Holger Danske — for it was he — gave it a grasp that 
 left the print of all fingers thereon, as though the 
 iron had been soft clay, and, with a grim smile, he 
 cried, **Ha ! I see there are still men in Denmark ; ] 
 may rest yet awhile ! " and with that, he laid himseli 
 down to sleep once more. 
 
 There he sleepeth, and shall sleep, till Denmark be 
 in the sorest need, and help there is none ; then comes 
 he forth once more to victory and to vengeance ! 
 Poor Denmark ! sharp troubles must be coming on 
 her if those through which she has already passed 
 have failed to break the hero's sleep. 
 
 The office of the castellan (slotsforvalter) is at the 
 entrance to the inner palace-yard. Admission-monej 
 to the picture gallery and tower, 30 ore ; to the 
 chapel, 20 ore. 
 
 KURHUS (Restaurant), 
 
 One English mile from Kronborg, situated in a beauti- 
 ful plantation that forms a snug retreat for either 
 

THE ENVIRONS. 189 
 
 painter or poet, and the abundance of migratory 
 singing-birds lend a still greater charm to the Danish 
 woods, so filling the air with their melody, that it is 
 well they are mute when the stars come out — 
 
 ** For not an eyelid could to sleep incline, 
 Wert thou among them, singing as they shine." 
 
 The view from the elevation behind the restaurant 
 
 is splendid, and here is Hamlefs Grave (Grav), 
 or clap-trap, as the Danes style it. Entrance, 35 ore. 
 A well-heaped cairn marks the spot. 
 
 ** At his head a grass-green turf, 
 At his heels a stone." 
 
 The erection of this monument may be accepted as 
 a tribute of grateful admiration of the genius of our 
 Shakespeare, who has created for the Danes an 
 immortal Prince of Denmark unknown in Danish 
 history, which does no more than record the name of 
 an '' Amlodi," among the semi-mythic princes of 
 Jutland. Half-way down the embankment is another 
 clap-trap, sacred to the memory of Hamlet's poor 
 mad love, Ophelia. 
 
 THE CASTLE ,0F PLEASURE, 
 
 Given by Frederik VII. for an invalid's hotel, 
 which was bought again, and made into a fashionable 
 bathing-place. 
 
 The establishment of Badehotel is in the hands 
 of a company, who take every possible pains to make 
 it attractive. The season commences on the 15th of 
 June, and lasts until the end of September. 
 
190 ADDEADA. 
 
 In the year 1884 this hotel was visited by over 700 
 persons. It is here that the aristocracy from 
 England, Germany, and Sweden collect, whilst 
 Klampenborg and Skodsborg are mostly visited 
 by the rich merchant people. Stay a few days, if 
 possible ; otherwise we must hurry back to town and 
 dine, for "time and tide for no man bide," nor yet 
 do steamers, as a rule. 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 HELLEBAK. 
 
 Yery interesting is a walk along the woody shore 
 to Hellebak, a favourite watering-place. On the 
 way is passed Adalsgaard, which is situated in a 
 most romantic district. 
 
 From here we have a splendid view of Sweden and 
 the Kattegat. 
 
 At Hellebak the Tegelstrup woods reach their 
 most northerly limits, but even here the trees attain 
 a great size, and the little lakes which are inter- 
 spersed through the densest part of the woods make 
 this district nearly as beautiful as its southern 
 neighbour, Gurre, in which popular imagination long 
 saw the last of the famous Valdemar, with fire- 
 snorting horse and fleet hounds, expiating in wild 
 midnight rides the impious words in which he had 
 declared that, " if he could hunt for ever in the woods 
 of his beloved Gurre^ God might keep the Kingdom 
 of Heaven ! " 
 
ADDENDA, 191 
 
 HELSINGBOHG. 
 
 Steamboat from Elsinore to Helsingborg four 
 times a-day, in twenty minutes, for 90 or 60 ore. 
 Hotel Continental is new, with every comfort, and 
 stands opposite the station. Helsingborg is an old 
 town, with 14,900 inhabitants, and contains remains 
 of the fortress of Karnan, a ruin of seven flats, from 
 which is obtained a splendid view of the Danish coast 
 and the surroundings of the town. Key to be had 
 from the Vaktmastare, 46 Langvinkelsgata. We pass 
 the battle-field where Marshal Stenbock defeated the 
 Danes in 1710, and arrive at Hoganas, where we 
 must try and find time to visit a coal-pit more than a 
 hundred years old. 
 
 THE CASTLE SOPHIERO, 
 
 The favourite residence of the Swedish royal family, 
 stands about a mile from the town ; but very little of 
 it can be seen from the road, on account of the dense 
 foliage. 
 
 After passing this we come to a red brick building, 
 the Palace of KuUagunarstorp, belonging to 
 Count Wachtmeister. 
 
 It has a splendid view, extending over land and sea. 
 
 We reach at last the Mountain of KuUen. 
 This rugged mountain, set off by the foaming sea, 
 leaves an imposing impression on our minds, on 
 account of its nakedness, and barren vegetation, as 
 well as its great height, rising as it does from the 
 waters of the Kattegat, about 600 feet. On the 
 summit the lighthouse rears its stately form — 
 
192 ADDENDA, 
 
 " Holding its lantern o'er the restless surge, 
 The night-o'ertaken mariner to save." 
 
 About ten minutes by rail from Helsingborg brings 
 us to the fashionable bathing establishment of 
 Ramlosa (Hotel and Restaurant), which is 
 renowned for its rich steel springs and baths. 
 
 It is best to make the tour to Kullen from 
 Helsingborg, Hogana's railway, or the Helsingborg 
 Hessleholm railway, as far as Kattarp, and from there 
 to Hoganas. 
 
 MALMO. 
 
 Steamers leave Copenhagen about four times a-day, 
 but refer to the remembrance lists of the newspapers 
 for trustworthy information. It is a delightful sail — 
 the Sound, so shallow, that on a clear day you can 
 see to the bottom nearly all the way, with its 
 wonderfully plentiful growth of seaweed, that I had 
 no idea existed anywhere. 
 
 MALMO HOTEL KRAMER 
 (near the market). 
 
 Malmo is built on the wildest part of the Sound, 
 nearly opposite Copenhagen, on level ground, and has 
 a good harbour, protected by the fortress of 
 Malmohuus. 
 
 The] inhabitants carry on an active commerce in 
 corn, cloth, stockings, hats, gloves, carpets, soap, etc., 
 -etc. Malmo has also a citadel and port, consisting of 
 an inner harbour and an outer roadstead. 
 
ADDENDA. 193 
 
 From Malmo tlie traveller takes train to Stock- 
 holm. Hotel Grand near the Quay ; Hotel Rydberg 
 and Gustav Adolf Torg (Market). 
 
 I cannot close this tour of pen and ink without ask- 
 ing the traveller to make the journey to Christiania 
 by the sea. The run does not take twenty-four hours, 
 coasting all the way, past such grandly wild scenery 
 that reminds me of nothing so much as the journeys 
 I have made to that dainty place, Oban in the High- 
 lands ; and Christiania is really like Oban on a 
 larger scale, and possesses a street more resembling 
 Princes Street in Edinburgh than any other I have 
 seen. It is named after Bernadotte, Carl Johans Gade. 
 
 Hotel Grand, Enevoldsplads. Hotel Victoria, 
 Raadhus Gade, 
 
 This hotel I can thoroughly recommend from 
 personal experience, and no one need fear being 
 imposed upon by Norwegians, for their honesty is as 
 proverbial as their sobriety. 
 
 A very cheap illustrated Guide tO Norway can 
 be obtained in that country from Tonsberg Christiania, 
 edited by Chr. Tonsberg. 
 
 Baedeker's well-known guide. No one should visit 
 Norway and Sweden without first procuring a copy of 
 this admirable work. 
 
 13 
 
VOCABULARY. 
 
 The ' 
 
 Iable. 
 
 Please to give me. 
 
 Giv mig. 
 
 Breakfast. 
 
 Frokost. 
 
 Dinner. 
 
 Middagsmad. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 The. 
 
 Supper. 
 Bacon. 
 
 Aftensmad. 
 Flsesk. 
 
 Beer (Ale). 
 Bread. 
 
 Brod. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Smdr. 
 
 Cake. 
 
 Kage. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 Ost. 
 
 Chicken. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Kylling. 
 Chocolade. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Kaffe. 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Flode. 
 
 Duck. 
 
 And. 
 
 An Egg. 
 A Fork. 
 
 Et MgA 
 En Gaffel. 
 
 Glass. 
 
 Glas. 
 
 Ham. 
 
 Skinke. 
 
 Knife. 
 
 Kniv. 
 
 Milk. 
 
 Mselk. 
 
 Mustard. 
 Napkin. 
 A Plate. 
 
 Sennep. 
 Serviet. 
 En Tallerken 
 
 * (E, or o, means o-e, but is written in one, and pronounced 
 like "i" in our word "first." 
 
 t iE, a or 86 pronounced like **a" in '*fate." 
 

 VOCABULARY. 195 
 
 A Radish. 
 
 
 En Radise 
 
 Salad. 
 
 
 Salat. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 
 Sukkor. 
 
 Spoon. 
 
 
 Skee. 
 
 Vinegar. 
 
 
 Eddike. 
 
 Water. 
 
 
 Vand. 
 
 Wine. 
 
 
 Vin. 
 
 
 Soups. 
 
 Ox-tail Soup. 
 Broth, or Gravy 
 
 Soup. 
 
 Oxehalesuppe. 
 Bouillon. 
 
 
 Fish (Fisk). 
 
 Lobster. 
 
 
 Hummer. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 
 Lax. 
 
 Sole. 
 
 
 Tunge. 
 
 
 Loins. 
 
 Mutton Chop. 
 
 
 Lammecarbonad e. 
 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 
 
 Kalvecotelet. 
 
 Beefsteaks. 
 Sirloin of Beef. 
 
 
 Boeufsteg (or Bofsteg). 
 Morbrad. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 
 Oxesteg. 
 
 Roast Mutton. 
 
 
 Bedesteg. 
 
 Roast Pork. 
 Roast Veal. 
 
 
 Flseskesteg. 
 Kalvesteg. 
 
 Roast Lamb. 
 
 
 Lammesteg. 
 
 Smoked Ham, with 
 
 Roget Skinke med 
 
 
 Potatoes. 
 
 Kartofler. 
 
 Boiled Veal and Ham. 
 
 Kogt Kalvekjod og 
 
 Skinke. 
 
 Boiled Beef 
 Boiled Mutton 
 
 
 Kogt Oxekjod. 
 Kogt Bedekjod. 
 
 Vegetables (Gemyse). 
 
 Potatoes, boiled or Kartofler, kogte eller 
 
 fried. ristede. 
 
196 VOCABULARY. 
 
 Cabbage. 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 Kaal. 
 Blomkaal. 
 
 Peas. 
 
 ^rter. 
 
 Spinage. 
 Carrots. 
 
 Spinat. 
 Gulerodder. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 Hvide Roer. 
 
 Sweets (Syltetoj), etc. 
 
 Gooseberries. 
 
 Stikkelsbser. 
 
 Compote of Prunes. 
 Cheese. 
 
 Syltede Blommer. 
 Ost. 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Brod. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Smor. 
 
 A Cigar. 
 
 En Cigar. 
 
 A Match. 
 
 En Svovlstik. 
 
 Waiter. 
 Gratuity. 
 
 Opvarter. 
 Drikkepenge. 
 
 Im 
 
 'M. 
 
 Bath Room. 
 
 Badevserelse. 
 
 A Brush. 
 
 En Borste. 
 
 Hair Brush, Clothes Brush. 
 
 En Haarb., en Klsedeb 
 
 Bell. 
 
 Klokke. 
 
 Boots. 
 
 Stovler. 
 
 Blanket. 
 A Candle. 
 
 Uldteeppe. 
 Et Lys. 
 
 Chamber-maid. 
 
 Kammerjomfru. 
 
 Coat. 
 
 Frakke. 
 
 Comb. 
 
 Kam. 
 
 Gloves. 
 
 Handsker. 
 
 Hat-box. 
 
 Hatte-^ske. 
 
 Hair-pins. 
 
 Haarnaale. 
 
 Hair-dresser. 
 
 Friseur. 
 
 Mirror. 
 Night Stool. 
 
 Spejl. 
 Nat-Stol. 
 
 Pillow. 
 
 Hovedpude. 
 
VOCABULARY. 
 
 197 
 
 Pins. 
 Portmanteau. 
 
 Knappenaale 
 Kuflf'ert. 
 
 Scissors. 
 
 Sax. 
 
 Shoes. 
 
 Sko. 
 
 A Sheet. 
 
 Et Lagen. 
 
 Soap. 
 Towel. 
 
 Ssebe. 
 Haandklsede. 
 
 Travelling Rug. 
 
 Umbrella. 
 
 Watch 
 
 Reisetaeppe. 
 
 Paraply. 
 
 Uhr. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Vand. 
 
 Water Closet. 
 
 Retirade. 
 
 Washing. 
 
 Vask. 
 
 Writing Paper, etc. 
 
 Skrivepapir. 
 
 Phrases in Danish. 
 
 " Please, brush my boots, 
 
 shoes." 
 " I want the barber." 
 Good-day, sir ! 
 ** Please sir, tell me the 
 
 nearest way to the 
 
 Exhibition 1 " 
 ^' What is the fare?" 
 " That is too much ! " 
 I don't understand you, sir! 
 "Speak a little slower." 
 
 "Yser saa god at pudse 
 
 mine Stovler, Sko." 
 ** Jeg onsker Barberen." 
 ** Goddag, min Herre ! " 
 " Vser saa god at sige mig 
 
 den naermeste Yei til 
 
 Udstillingen 1 " 
 " Hvor meget koster det ?" 
 " Det er for meget ! " 
 " JegforstaaerDera ikke!" 
 *' Tal lidt lanorsommere ! " 
 
 Laundry. 
 
 Cuffs. 
 
 Collars. 
 
 Chemise. 
 
 Cravat. 
 
 Drawers. 
 
 Handkerchief. 
 
 Ni;^ht Dress. 
 
 Manchetter. 
 
 K raver. 
 
 Chemise. 
 
 Halstorklsede. 
 
 Underbenklseder. 
 
 Lommetorklsede. 
 
 Natkjole. 
 
198 VOCABULARY. 
 
 Petticoat. 
 Stockings. 
 Socks. 
 
 Skjort. 
 
 Stromper. 
 
 Sokker. 
 
 Shirt. 
 Trousers. 
 
 Skjorte. 
 Benklgeder. 
 
 Waistcoat. 
 
 Vest. 
 
 Days of the Week. 
 
 Sunday. 
 
 Monday. 
 
 Tuesday. 
 
 Wednesday. 
 
 Thursday. 
 
 Friday. 
 
 Saturday. 
 
 Sondag. 
 
 Mandag. 
 
 Tirsdag. 
 
 Onsdag. 
 
 Torsdag. 
 
 Fredag. 
 
 Lordag. 
 
 The Months. 
 
 January. 
 
 February. 
 
 March. 
 
 Januar. 
 
 Februar. 
 
 Marts. 
 
 April. 
 
 May. 
 
 June. 
 
 April 
 
 Maj. 
 
 Juni. 
 
 July. 
 August. 
 September. 
 October. 
 
 Juli. 
 August. 
 September. 
 Oktober. 
 
 November. 
 
 November. 
 
 December. 
 
 December. 
 
 One. 
 
 En. 
 
 Two. 
 
 To. 
 
 Three. 
 
 Tre. 
 
 Four. 
 
 Fire. 
 
 Five. 
 
 Fem. 
 
 Six. 
 
 Sex. 
 
 Seven. 
 
 Syv. 
 
VOCABULARY. 
 
 Eight. 
 
 Otte. 
 
 Nine. 
 
 Ni. 
 
 Ten. 
 
 Ti. 
 
 Eleven. 
 
 Elleve. 
 
 Twelve. 
 
 Tolv. 
 
 Thirteen. 
 
 Tretten. 
 
 Fourteen. 
 
 Fj Often. 
 
 Twenty. 
 
 Tyve. 
 
 Thirty. 
 
 Tredive. 
 
 Forty. 
 
 Fyrre 
 
 Fifty. 
 
 Halvtreds. 
 
 Sixty. 
 
 Treds. 
 
 Seventy. 
 
 Halvfjerds 
 
 Eighty. 
 
 Firs. 
 
 Ninety. 
 
 Halvfems. 
 
 Hundred. 
 
 Hundrede. 
 
 199 
 
 Printed by Walter ScOTT, Felling, Newcastle- on-Tyne. 
 
ll, 
 
HENRY WALKER & SON, 
 
 NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE. 
 
 Splendid Stock of Marble and Wood Chimaey-pieces ; 
 Tile Grates ; Hall and Ship Stoves ; Mosaic, Marble, 
 and Tile Hearths and Flooring ; all kinds of Furnishing 
 Ironmongery for Houses and Ships. 
 
 Moderate Prices. Special Terms for Cash. 
 
 THE COUNTY IRONMONGERY SHOW-ROOMS, 
 
 (Adjoining the County Hotel). 
 
 HEATING AND DOMESTIC ENGINEERS, 
 Sanitary Plumbers, Ironfonnders, and Range Makers, 
 
 GALLOWGATE IRON WORKS. 
 
 4 Medals awarded at recent Exhibition. 
 
 HENRY ANGUS & CO., 
 
 COACH AND HARNESS MAKERS, 
 
 2si E-vsra j^sTXjiE-on^-TirisrE. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1780. 
 
 A large number of Best Two and Four- Wheeled Carriages of 
 their own make always in Stock. 
 
 HOTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest 
 class of English and American travellers, affords first-ratie accommoda- 
 tion for Families and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to 
 the Royal Palace, overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table 
 d'Hdte. Private Dinners. Beat Attendance. Reading Room, Ladies' 
 Saloon. Hot Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and American 
 newspapers. All languages spoken. Very Moierate Charges. The only 
 Vienna Coffee-House. 
 
 R. KLUM, Proprietor. 
 
TEETH AT ALL PRICES. 
 
 Mr. D. POWELL, 
 
 SURGEON DENTIST, 
 2 NUN STREET (Corner of Clayton Street), 
 
 Ma}f be personally Consulted every Week Day ^ from 11 a,m, 
 until 4 p, m, 
 
 CONSULTATION FREE. 
 
 IMPORTANT ADVICE.— Before seeking the aid of the 
 Dental Profession, ask the people where to go, and have 
 the recommendation of the many — they are the best 
 judge. Don't go by one or two persons, or paid agents ; 
 have the advice and experience of at least a dozen 
 individuals. If you act according to the above advice 
 y ou might save yourself endless pain and disappointment. 
 
 OBSERVE LARGE BLUE LAMP 
 
 And see that you get into the RIGHT DOOR. 
 
 OVER 20 YEARS AT THE SAME ADDRESS. 
 
STABLE FITTINGS, '°^oo%^^i>^BT 
 
 S- 
 With special improvements, designed and made under 
 our personal supervision. 
 
 MANGERS. HAYRACKS. 
 
 VENTILATION OF STABLES PLANNED AND CARRIED OUT. 
 
 DINNING & COOKE, 
 
 MOT WATER AND SANITAFY ENGIJ<EE)RS, 
 Percy Iron Works, Newcastle-on-Tyne, ENGLAND. 
 
 ALFRED HASTILOW, 
 
 CABINET AND UPHOLSTERY 
 
 SHOW ROOMS, 
 
 17 PILGRIM STREET, 
 
 NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. 
 
CORLETT & PICKETT, 
 
 H. CORLETT. TAILORS, W. PICKETT. 
 
 TO ORDER ONLY. 
 RIDING BREECHES, PANTALOOKS, 
 
 LADIES' HABITS, JACKETS & COSTUMES, 
 
 MESSRS. CORLETT & PICKETT have always 
 in Stock an extensive and varied Assortment of the 
 latest and most desirable patterns, and one member 
 of the Firm is always present to receive their Patrons. 
 The demands of their large and increasing connection 
 receive the most careful attention, and, by reason of 
 the personal supervision of the members of the Firm, 
 satisfaction is assured. 
 
 Visitors are cordially invited to inspect the goods 
 and obtain the price of MESSRS. CORLETT AND 
 PICKETT before making their purchases. 
 
 In Cutting and Fitting Garments the wishes of 
 their Patrons are studiously complied with. 
 
 6 FRINGES STREET, 
 LONDON. 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or 
 
 on the date to which renewed. 
 
 Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 
 
 UMar'SSRHI 
 
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 REC'D L.D 
 
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 ftPR 91958 
 
 ^Ja'^SH^^ 
 
 -R 
 
 KCEIVED 
 
 REC-PJ|tff^l'GQ-5PjV | 
 
 JAN iG m ^ 
 
 DEPT. 
 
 
 ^^ggcau j 
 
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 -«;-+ 
 
 dlOtL 
 
 "" ^'SS-SPM 
 
 CO ■■ 
 
 FEB 41963 
 
 LD 21A-50m-8,'i57 
 (C8481sl0)476B 
 
 General Library 
 
 University of California 
 
 Berkeley 
 
10