:.f^^«tp 7 AND ITS ENVIRONS LUCY ANDERf; d ^ BERKELEY LIBRARY UNIVERSin Of CALIFORNIA LI COPENHAGEN AND ITS ENVIRONS. A GUIDE FOR TRAVELLERS. BY LUCY^NDERSEN, AUTHOR OF ''A HOLIDAY TOUR IN ITALY: SECOND EDITION. LONDON: WALTER SCOTT, 24 WARWICK LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1888. A ** Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let tins be thy prayer Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all." — Chaucer. SIFT PREFACE. Several enjoyable visits to the Danish Capital suggested the desirability of rendering its many attractions more accessible to my fellow-countrymen than hitherto. Having experienced much delay and difficulty in the pleasurable work of sight-seeing, from a scant knowledge of the Danish language, I endeavoured to remove a like obstacle from the path of English- speaking tourists. My object in undertaking this venture was two- fold. In the first instance I wished to place in the hands of English visitors to Copenhagen a useful Guide in their own language, as a ready means of viewing the numerous and priceless art collections, historic gatherings, and localities of interest, in which it is so rich. My second hope was to give a little friendly aid to **our Church in Copenhagen," by 378 iv PREFACE. devoting any surplus which might arise from the publication to its services. The first edition of my Guide having been so successfully disposed of, owing to the kind forbearance of the public, encouraged the idea of bringing out a second enlarged and improved edition, which I can only trust may meet with the same indulgence. If so, my labour will be amply rewarded. L. A. Newcastle-on-Tyne. THE EXHIBITION. For the benefit of tourists who may be visiting Copenhagen during the Exhibition, I give the following information : Entrances to the Exhibition. I. The now-existing Tivoli entrance. II. Corner of Vesterbrogade and Halmtorvet. III. Ny Yestergade Extension. I. and II. will open at 9 A.M., and close when Tivoli closes. III. will open 10 a.m. and close at 7 p.m. The Grounds will be open to the public from 9 A.M. till Tivoli closes. The Buildings will be open to the public from 10 A.M. till dusk, but not later than 8 p.m. For the last hour before closing time, no persons will be admitted to the buildings. From this rule are excepted the buildings for Gardening, the Fisheries, the Military Exhibits, and Dynamos, which will all be lighted by electricity, and remain open to the public during the evening. The Dairy is open 9-11 A.M., and 2-6 p.m. TEE EXHIBITION, Charges for Admission. I. From 9 a.m. till 7 p.m. Week days : adults, 1 krone ; children under 1 2 years, 50 ore. Sundays and other holidays : adults, 75 ore ; children, 50 ore. Extra Days. Whit-Sunday and Whit-Monday: adults, 1 krone; children, 50 ore. Inauguration Day : till 3 p.m., 10 kroner and 5 kroner ; after 3 p.m., 2 kroner and 1 krone. May 29th (Royal Cattle Show) : 2 kroner and 1 krone. Judging Day : till 3 p.m., 3 kroner and 1 krone 50 ore; after 3 p.m., 2 kroner and 1 krone. There are some more exceptions of less importance. II. After 7 p.m., 50 ore and 25 ore. Season Tickets. 1. Gentleman, 20 kroner. 2. Lady, 16 kroner. Valid at all times except on the opening day till 3 p.m COPENHAGEN, OR (KJOBENHAVN), MEANING "PORT OF TRADE." INTRODUCTION. *' Oh ! there never was yet, and there never will be, A shrine for my love like the broad blue sea." Kronborg Castle. HE tourist who approaches the city of Copen- hagen from the Kattegat cannot help being favourably impressed by the picturesque coast. At the entrance to the Sound we pass the 6 KRONBORG. grand old castle of Kronborg. What a world of historic memories cluster round the old pile ! Here was confined Caroline Matilda of England, after the court revolution which caused her downfall, till her brother, George III., sent a squadron to convey her to Germany. " Our unfortunate princess did not long survive such humiliation." It is on the Flag-battery (Flagbatteriet), where you see the Dannebrog waving, that Shakespeare, in his "Hamlet,'* makes the ghost of the Danish king to wander past the guards ; while deep in the vaults below rests the guardian spirit of Denmark, Holger Danske, wrapt in slumber, awaiting the hour when the Fatherland shall stand in the sorest need of his strong arm, and there is none other help. Then comes he forth to victory. Southey's Life of Nelson and Campbell's stirring lyric, "The Battle of the Baltic," are all recalled as we pass this narrow strait. ** Oh ! the Palace was a noble place In its palmy days of strength and grace," and it is very beautiful yet, retaining still its formidable appearance, although no longer required to do duty in controlling both shores of these northern Straits of Hercules, the tribute now paid being in part honorary, every vessel having only to display her colours, greeting, as it were, the descendant of the Yikings, when passing this their capital of the sea. Kronborg, if no longer formidable, is still worthy of all admiration as the most perfect specimen of renaissance castellated architecture remaining in MARITIME DIVISION. 7 Scandinavia ; and it is possible that better cannon would again give it command over the waters of the Sound, while the interior, with casemates capable of holding 1000 men, is well adapted for purposes of defence. From this point onward we are in smooth water, and have leisure to admire the beautiful panorama before us. To the left extends the purple band of the Swedish coast, which, as we near Copenhagen, gives place to the dark-red batteries ; to the right, the winding shore of Sealand discloses an endless succes- sion of long bays, whence quaint littlo villages, embosomed in foliage, peep at the passing steamer like shy children ; and in the midst lies the blue dimpling Oresund in all its beauty, touched by the glancing light with a thousand sparkles. The last place to note before reaching Copenhagen is the Custom-House (Toldbod), and the ** Long Line " (Lange Linie), a neck of land between the citadel and the sea, which, with the Green Place (Gron- ningen), make beautiful promenades. The maritime division of Copenhagen is quite apart, constructed on small islets connected by bridges, and goes by the name Nyholm. Here the naval works are being carried on with an activity that shows how thoroughly the Government shares in the general desire of the nation to bring its fleet up to the requirements of the times. The resources of the country in the present century have never been such as to allow of the complete restoration of the ships and stores taken by England in 1807, when, after three days' bombardment of the city, the fleet 8 MARITIME DIVISION. was captured, together with all the materials that were stored on Nyholm for the building and repairing of ships. The reason for this robbery was to prevent Napoleon using it against ourselves. On the small islet Ankeroen, that is connected with Nyholm, and, properly, is a part of it, is the new dockyard for the repair of ships. It is built of granite, has a breadth in the sluice of 58 feet, a length of 260 feet, and is fitted out to receive ships of a draught of 20 feet. The water is pumped in and out by the help of a steam-engine. The English civil engineer, Alfred Giles, gave the drawings, and in part conducted the work. It was used first on 18th August 1858. A special permission from the Ministry of the Navy is necessary for seeing these establishments. There is not much, however, to interest the ordinary tourist at Nyholm. I once went, but it was to see a man-of-war launched. It was a quaint- looking craft, closed in with a top that much resembled the roof of a Strasbourg house. To the launch came the King and Queen, accompanied by their sons, the Crown Prince and the King of Greece, ■besides other members of the Royal Family; they were rowed over by twelve sailors dressed in white, with an admiral steering. A right royal salute was given as the party landed. The King must have adopted Bernadotte's motto, "The people's love is my reward," for if ever monarch owned that noblest gem that adorns a crown, the love of his subjects, it is Christian IX., father of our much-beloved Princess of Wains. DANISH LOYALTY. 9 *' God save brave Christian's daughter ! Our noble Prince's pride ; The Danish flag and England's Henceforth float side by side. To our beloved Princess We look with hope and joy ; May sorrow never darken, Nor fate those hopes destroy. Then let the pray'r re-echo Among our hills and dales, ' God bless fair Alexandra ! ' ' God bless the Prince of Wales ! ' " Talking of the Danish King reminds me of that beautiful German ballad wherein is related a dis- pute between four princes, as to which of them was the richest. One boasted of the treasures embosomed in his hills ; another of his golden grain and sparkling wines ; while Ludwig of Bavaria claimed the honour on account of the flourishing towns and rich cloisters which his land contained ; but to the bearded Lord of Wurtemberg fell the palm. He said, " My towns are small, and silver-bearing hills I have none ; yet I possess a jewel unrivalled, for, without misgiving, I can lay my head fearlessly in every subject's lap." (Ich mein Haupt kann kuehnlich legen jedem Unterthan in den Schooss.) The real origin of the tale goes : That on one occasion Peter the Great of Russia said to the Danish King, whilst standing on the top of the Round Tower (Runde Taarn) : *' I can order any of my subjects to thrust himself down from this height, and my bidding would be fulfilled ! Couldst thou do that, my royal brother 1" " No ! " replied the Danish 10 COPENHAGEN, King; "but," he added, with a proud smile, "I can lay myself to sleep in the lap of any of my subjects, Couldst thou do that, my imperial brother 1 '^ Once inside the Merchant City, you are ready to forgive her level uniformity and utter want of elevation, and to give yourself up entirely to the quaint, old-world atmosphere which surrounds you ; for Copenhagen is, beyond question, one of the most interesting towns for spending a profitable and enjoy- able holiday in, and, knowing this, makes me anxious to give the results of my own ramblings, that, by doing so, I may help others to enjoy themselves still more. Yet it is not without some fear and trepidation that I present this, my second edition, to the public, though they have been indeed forbearing with all my shortcomings in the past ; and I should like to take this opportunity of thanking them, and the numerous friends who have helped me in gathering information, and ask them still to have patience with me, for I am pretty sure to be unlucky enough to go on making blunders, however carefully I may tread. With this guide will be issued a short vocabulary of words for the benefit of those who have not time or inclination to acquire even a superficial acquaint- ance with the Danish language. Other handbooks of a similar description may claim to be more voluminous ; this, however, I think a doubtful advan- tage. "Little and good" is the maxim by which I have been guided, feeling that the traveller is likely to be perplexed, rather than helped, by a superabund- ance of matter. The climate of Denmark generally is favourably DANISH MANUFACTORIES, 11 influenced by the action of the Gulf Stream, and the temperature of Copenhagen is nearly the same as that of Edinburgh — viz., 47° Fahr. Its greater mean summer heat of 64"* Fahr. gives it advantages over that of the Scottish capital in regard to the better ripening of cereals and other vegetable produce ; and the atmosphere is ever so much clearer than with us, owing, I suppose, to the want of our coal area — the ** bottled sunshine '* of past ages, to which England owes her wealth and the diminishing of her corn-fields. " Thinner wanes the rural village, Smokier lies the fallow plain ; Shrinks the cornfield's pleasant tillage, Fades the orchard's rich domain." From England is imported nearly all the coal and iron used in the kingdom, so that the Danish manufactories are rather behind hand. The most noted is the Copenhagen china, which, from the time of its establishment^ a hundred years ago, till recently, was a Crown monopoly. It is made of clay called kaoline, found at Bornholm. The same island supplies an admirable lime for cement, as well as a hard, compact limestone, capable of taking a good polish, and known as Bornholm marble. Another Danish specality is gloves, of which those known as ** Randers," which are made of sheeps' and lambs'- skin, tanned with willow bark, have acquired a European reputation for durability and cheapness. The Regent Street of Copenhagen is Ostergade; it loses its otherwise imposing effect for want of breadth. The shops are, as in Edinburgh, in several rows, the 12 COPENHAGEN. first popping up from under the pavement, reminding one forcibly of Jack-in-the-box. But the wealth of their contents, displayed in artistic designing of porcelain, dainty jewellery, and filigree work, goes far in showing how worthily Denmark is renowned for such wares — ** a charming plethora of things dear to the feminine heart." Here I often gaze till the temptation has become too strong, and I draw out ray purse, only to realise the truth of Shakespeare's immortal aphorism — " Who steals my purse steals trash," for, alas, there is nothing in it. So, instead, I go ** lionising," as that is a cheap amusement — not one long fork-out, like sight-seeing in London. The hotels are numerous, but I will only mention a few of the best and largest, that T can truthfully assure the traveller are *^ replete with every comfort," and attended by a host of waiters, who are all that waiters should be ; and how much that is, perhaps only those sorely-tried functionaries know. The charges are, besides, moderate. Perhaps the hotel- keepers don't travel any great distance, or, at least, we will hope not, for if once they took a tour from Denmark or Norway to our English or Scotch pleasure resorts, they would feel, as Lord Clive says he did when he remembered the unlimited amount of " loot" which he might have taken, but did not, in the treasure stores of the Indian princes, and *' be astonished at their own moderation," and returning to their native soil, vow henceforth to cast modesty and moderation to the winds. HOTELS, 13 *^* The traveller whose time is valuable, or to whom a sea- journey is objectionable, should go from Victoria Station (London) to Queensborough, from whence the North Sea can be crossed in about ten hours to Flushing ; then via Hamburg and Kiel, or Hamburg and Fredericia, to Copenhagen — a journey which occupies about thirty-six hours either way. HOTELS. Hotel d' Angleterre — In the Kongens Nytorv. A cafe and restaurant. Hotel King of Denmark (Kongen of Danmark) — In Holmens Canal, No. 15. It is very con- veniently and nicely situated, near to the landing- place of the steamers and the Kongens Nytorv. Tastefully fitted up; lifts and baths. Much frequented by English. Not expensive. Hotel Phonix — Bredgade, No. 37. Is near to the quay, and has caf6 and restaurant; it is newly fitted up. Hotel Dagmar — On the Tester Boulevard not very large, but handsomely furnished. Dinners at fixed price. Large restaurant and cafe. Beer tunnel "worth seeing.'^ Hotel National — Yesterbro Passage, opposite Tivoli, near the tramway, and close to the Central Station. Entrance in the Jernbanegade, No. 9. Restaurant, cafe, and reading-room, grand long tunnel, with buffet and beer-house. Hotel l'Europe — Holberggade, No. 2. Hotel Union — St. Annaplads, No. 22, near the quay and tramway. Confectioner {Conditor) — and coff*ee-houses. Cup of coffee, 20 ore ; tea, the same ; chocolate, 35 ore ; 16 COPENHAGEN. Baths. — E;oman Baths, 10 Tordenskjoldsgade, behind the Theatre E/oyal (Roman bath, 1 kr. 80 ; hot bath, 75 ore). Byssensten, near Langebro — all kinds of hot and cold, also Roman steam-baths. (Sea-baths near Langebro (20 ore per bath ; towel, 8 ore), also at the " Strandvej " and Klampenborg, etc. Tramways (Danish Sporveje, the carriage Sporvogn), — Central Station in Kongens Nytorv, from which issue the following lines (prices 5, 10, 20 ore, etc.) : — (1) Westward by Holmens Canal and Storrestroede, Slotspladsen, past Tivoli, Vesterbrogade, and either by Frederiksberg Allee or by Pilealleen, to the entrance of Frederiksberg Have. Driving, half-an- hour. (2) Westward by the same streets to the railway station. (3) Southward to Christianshavn, into Amager Port. (4) Northward by Bredgade, Osterbro and Strandvejen to Charlottenlund and Klampenborg. (5) To the north-west by Gothersgade and Norrebrogade Norrebros Runddel, while several lines connect the suburbs with one another. INDEX OF NOTEWORTHY PLACES IN RAMBLES. PAGE Academy of Arts, in Charlottenborg, on the Kongens Nytorv. (Free.) Ramlle 1. . . . .23 Alban's, St., Church (English), near the Esplanade and Custom House. Ramble 1. . . . .32 Alexander Newsky Church (Russian), on the Bredgade. Ramble 1. . . . .39 Alleenberg, out by Frederiksberg Allee, and near the Zoological Gardens. Ramble 6. . . . 137 Amalienborg, winter residence of the Court, sometimes called Frederiksplads (Frederik's Square). Ramble 1. 30 Anna, St., Plads (Place). Ramble 1. . . .29 Antiquity Collection, near Charlottenborg. Entrance from Nyhavn. Tuesdays, 12 to 2. Ramble 1. , 23 Armoury, behind Christiansborg, on the Slotsholmen. Open to the public from the 1st May till the 1st October every Wednesday from 1 to 3 o'clock. (Free. ) Ramble 5. . . . . . .106 Assistentskirkegaarden. Out by the Botanical Garden, where the children's fairy tale writer, Andersen, is buried. Take the Norrebro tram from Kongens Nytorv ; it passes the entrance. Ramble 6. 141 Botanical Gardens, on the Boulevard and continua- tion of Gothersgade. Open from 1st April to 31st October daily from 1 till sunset. (Free.) Ramble 2, 4] Bbahe (Tycho) Statue, near the Observatory and Rosenborg Castle. Ramble 2. . . . .43 2 18 INDEX. PAGE Cafe, National, opposite Tivoli. Ramble 6, . .127 Casino Theatre, in the Amaligade. RamUe 1. . 29 Catholic (Roman) Church, Bredgade, 64. Ramble 1. . 38 Christiansborg Palace (burnt down). Ramble 5. . 104 Church of Our Lady (contains some of Thorvaldsen's masterpieces). Open daily for a gratuity. Ramble B. 78' Citadel, Frederikshavn, near the Custom House and Long Line. Ramble 1. . . . .34 Circus, on the Jernbanegade. Ramble 6. . . 136 Conservatory (Music), in Bredgade. Ramble 1. . 38 Danish People's Museum. Open daily from 11 to 6. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. . , . 129 Ethnographical Museum ; in the Prince's Palace. Open four or five times a week, from 10 to 12 or 12 to 2. (Free.) /S'ee daily papers. Ramble i. . . .96 Ewald's Monument, near the Round Tower. Ramble 3. 73 Exchange, nearly opposite the unfortunate Palace Christiansborg. Change time every day 2.30-3.30 o'clock ; admission money after 2 o'clock, 20 ore. Ramble 4. . . . . . .87 Frue Plads (Place of Our Lady), where stands the Church of Our Lady. Ramble 3. . . . .78 Frederiksberg Castle and Park (near the Zoological Gardens). Ramble 6. . . . . .138 Frederik's Church (German). Ramble 4. .. . 88 Glyptotheca, by Carlsburg, and near the Zool. Gardens. Every Sunday from 1-5. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. 140 Holy Ghost Church (Helligaands-Kirken), on the Amagertorv. Ramble 3. . . . .82 Holmens' Church, on the Holmens' Canal, where rest Denmark's two great sea heroes, Juel and Vessel. Ramble 4. . . . . . .84 Kommune Hospital. Near the Botanical Gardens. Ramble 2, . . . . . .42 INDEX. 19 PAGE Long Line (Lange Linie). The lovely promenade near the Custom House. Ramble 1. . . . .34 Land and Navy Churchyard. Ramble 1. . .37 Liberty Monument, on the Yester Bro, near Tivoli. Ramble e. . . . . . .134 Marble Church (Marmorkirken), on the Bredgade (Broad Street). Ramble 1. . . . 38 Medal and Coin Collection, in the Palace of the Prince (Prinsens Palais), araounting to more than 30,000 numbers. Open on Mondays from 12 till 2 (May 1 -September 30). See remembrance list in newspapers. (Free.) Ramble 4. . . . 103 JMoltke Picture Gallery, corner of Bredgade and Dronningens Tvergade. Open from 1st April till 1st November. Free, Saturdays and Sundays. Catalogue, 70 ore. ^S'ee newspapers for days and hours. Ramble 1, 30 Museum, Old Northern (Nordiske Oldsager), in the Prince's Palace, contains the Antiquities of Scandinavia. Open almost every other day, for two hours. (/S'ee newspapers. ) Rainble 4. . . 89 Museum, Royal Collection of Prints, in the Princes' Palace. Open every Tuesday and Friday, from 11 to 2. (Free.) Rambled. . . . . . .89 ITational Bank, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 .84 Niels Juel's Statue, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 . 83 •Oehlenschlaeger's Statue, in front of the Theatre Royal. Ramble 1. . . . . .27 Panoptikon (Scandinavian). The Wax- Works, on the Vesterbrogade, 3. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. Ramble 6 . . . . . . 130 Panorama, in the Jernbanegade. Open from 9 o'clock till sunset. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. Ramble 6. . . . . . .135 Post Office, corner of the Yalkendorfsgade and Store Kjobmagergade. Letters to England and America, 20 ore. Ramble 3. . . , . 72 18 INDEX. PAGE Cafe, National, opposite Tivoli. BamUe 6, . .127 Casino Theatre, in the Amaligade. RamUe 1. . 29 Catholic (Roman) Church, Bredgade, 64. RamUe 1. . 38 Christiansborg Palace (burnt down). Ramble 5. . 104 Church of Our Lady (contains some of Thorvaldsen's masterpieces). Open daily for a gratuity. Ramble Z. 78' Citadel, Frederikshavn, near the Custom House and Long Line. Ramble 1. . . . .34 Circus, on the Jernbanegade. Ramble 6. . . 136 Conservatory (Music), in Bredgade. Ramble 1. . 38 Danish People's Museum. Open daily from 11 to 6. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble Q, . . . 129 Ethnographical Museum ; in the Prince's Palace. Open four or five times a week, from 10 to 12 or 12 to 2, (Free.) /S'ee daily papers. Ramble L . . .96 Ewald's Monument, near the Round Tower. Ramble 3. 73 Exchange, nearly opposite the unfortunate Palace Christiansborg. Change time every day 2.30-3.30 o'clock ; admission money after 2 o'clock, 20 ore. Ramble 4. . . . . . .87 Fbue Plads (Place of Our Lady), where stands the Church of Our Lady. Ramble 3. . . . .78 Frederiksberg Castle and Park (near the Zoological Gardens). Ramble 6. . . . . .138 Frederik's Church (German). Ramble 4. . . 88 Glyptotheca, by Carlsburg, and near the Zool. Gardens. Every Sunday from 1-5. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. 140 Holy Ghost Church (Helligaands-Kirken), on the Amagertorv. Ramble 3. . . . .82 HoLMENs' Church, on the Holmens' Canal, where rest Denmark's two great sea heroes, Juel and Vessel. Ramble 4. . . . . . .84 KoMMUNE Hospital. Near the Botanical Gardens. Ramble 2. . . . . . .42 INDEX, 19 PAGE Long Line (Lange Linie). The lovely promenade near the Custom House. Ramble 1. . . . .34 Land and Navy Churchyard. Ramble 1. . .37 Liberty Monument, on the Tester Bro, near Tivoli. Ramble Q. . . . . . .134 Marble Church (Marmorkirken), on the Bredgade (Broad Street). Ramble 1. . . . 38 Medal and Coin Collection, in the Palace of the Prince (Prinsens Palais), amounting to more than 30,000 numbers. Open on Mondays from 12 till 2 (May 1 -September 30). See remembrance list in newspapers. (Free.) Ramble 4. . . . 103 J\Ioltke Picture Gallery, corner of Bredgade and Dronningens Tvergade. Open from 1st April till 1st November. Free, Saturdays and Sundays. Catalogue, 70 ore. /S'ee newspapers for days and hours. Ramble!, 30 Museum, Old Northern (Nordiske Oldsager), in the Prince's Palace, contains the Antiquities of Scandinavia. Open almost every other day, for two hours. {See newspapers. ) Ramble 4. . .89 Museum, Royal Collection of Prints, in the Princes' Palace. Open every Tuesday and Friday, from 11 to 2. (Free.) Rambled. . . . . . .89 ITational Bank, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 .84 Niels Juel's Statue, on the Holmens Canal. Ramble 4 . 83 •Oehlenschlaeger's Statue, in front of the Theatre Royal. Ramble 1, . . . . .27 Panoptikon (Scandinavian). The Wax- Works, on the Vesterbrogade, 3. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. Ramble 6 . . . . . . 130 Panorama, in the Jernbanegade. Open from 9 o'clock till sunset. Entrance, 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. Ramble 6. . . . . . .135 Tost Office, corner of the Valkendorfsgade and Store Kjobmagergade. Letters to England and America, 20 ore. Ramble 3. . . . , 72 20 INDEX, PAGE Prince's Palace, behind the Christiansborg Slot. It con- tains four museums, all free. Bamhle 4. . .89 KosENBORG Castle (Slot), on the Boulevard, contains Chronological Collection of the Danish Kings. Shown daily. Tickets, obtainable from the Inspector, near the Palace, at 6 kr. for up to 12 persons. Ramble 2. . 45 Bound Tower (Runde Taarn). On the Store Kjobmager- gade, open daily from 12 till 1 or 2. Sometimes gratis, other times 35 ore per person. RamUe 3. . 73 Royal Shooting Gallery, out past Tivoli. Bamhle 6. 136 Saviour's (Our) Church (Yor Frelsers Kirke), on Christianshavn. The Tower, or Taarn, shown on payment of 2 kroners for a party of twelve persons. Ramble 4. . . . . . .88 Statue of Frederik Y., on the Frederiks Plads, beside Amalienborg Palaces. Ramble 1. . .31 Stephen's Church, on the Norrebrogade, past the Assistentskirkegaard. Ramble 6. . . . 142 Synagogue, in the Krystalgade. Ramble 3. . .74 Thorvaldsen's Museum. Open daily from 11 for a few hours. Often gratis, sometimes on payment of 50 ore {see newspapers). Catalogue, 45 ore. Ramble 5. . 109 Theatre Royal, on the Kongens Nytorv. Ramble 1. .27 Tivoli, on Yesterbro. Entrance, 50 ore. Ramble 6. .127 Trinity Church (Trinitatis Kirke), where rest the poets Ewald and Wessel. Ramble 3. ". . .73 University, on the Frueplads, near the Church of Our Lady. Ramble 3. . . . • .75 Yariety Theatre, in the Store Ravnsborgsgade, in the Suburb Norrebro. Ramble 6. ... 128 Zoological Gardens, near Frederiksberg Castle. En- trance, 40 ore ; children, 20 ore. Ramble 6. .139 Zoological Museum, in the Krystalgade, joining the University. Open Sunday and Wednesday from 12-2. (Free.) Ramble '6, . . . . .76 PLAN, 21 PLAN Of what the visitor must not miss seeing, be the stay ever so limited : — FIKST DAY. The Church of Our Lady, Thorwaldsen's Museum for Sculpture, Zoological Gardens and Frederiksberg Park, the Gardens in the Avenue at night, or Tivoli. SECOND DAY. Round Tower beside Trinity Church, Botanical Gardens, Rosenborg Palace and Gardens ; then drive to Klampenborg. THIRD DAY. Start by an early train for Hillerod ; see Freder- iksborg, or " the Danish Kensington ; " then go on to Elsinore, and return by the steamer in the evening to Copenhagen. FIRST RAMBLE, KING'S NEWMARKET (kongen's nytorv). This Square forms the centre of the town, and it is from here that we shall direct our rambles. In the middle of the square is a fine shrubbery, ornamented with an immense, but by no means beautiful, statue of Christian Y. on horseback, popu- larly called '' Hesten " (the Horse). The figure underneath the horse is meant to represent Sweden being crushed by Christian Y. ; but, of course, it is not loyal to say this, now that the two families are united in marriage. The four figures surrounding the pedestal represent Alexander the Great, Minerva, Hercules, and Artemisia. The whole monument was designed by the Frenchman L'Amoureux, and erected in 1688. Amongst the buildings surrounding the square, the following are noteworthy : — Hotel d'Angleterre. Beside the hotel there is a new street called Hovedvagtgaden^ which leads into the Ny Ostergade, At the corner of this street, and the Ny Adelgade, is a clock which is lit up at night. The Thotts Palace is another important building, situate at one corner of Bredgade. In it resides the Russian Embassy. FIRST RAMBLE. 23 CHARLOTTENBORG PALACE (academy of arts) Is near the Theatre in Kongens Nytorv. This building was erected in the years 1672-73, and is named after Charlotte Amalie, wife of Christian Y., whose residence it formerly was. The materials for building the palace were in part taken from the famous Kallo Fortress, where the young Vasa was a prisoner in 1518. One wonders at the sacrilege. ** One may do whatever one likes In Art, — the only thing is, to make sure That one does like it — which takes brains to know. ' The Academy was founded about 1754 by Frederick Y. Exhibits every year in April the latest works of Art. As the rooms of Chariot ten- borg seemed too small and unfit for the Exhibition of these Art treasures, the most renowned of the artists at last succeeded, after long perseverance, to erect the Exhibition building, in which effort the Government at length assisted them. It is situated behind the Charlottenborg, and in direct connection with it, its chief entrance being on the Nyhavn. The architecture is in keeping with the other parts of the palace, and was designed and executed by Albert Jensen in 1882-83. The lower rooms contain the Antiquarian Collection and the Library. The upper rooms are destined for the Art exhibits. Amongst these are introduced the Royal picture collection which was saved from the flames that destroyed the unfortunate palace of Christiansborg. 24 FIRST RAMBLE. They may have to be moved at times until the plans for the new museum are carried out ; so I will only mention a few from the Royal Picture Gallery : — 69— By M. A. Caravaggio. • Soldiers Playing at Cards.* 67_By A. G. Colonia. ' Noah Leaving the Ark.' 72— By Louis Cranach. * Hercules Learning to Spin.' 79_By D, Delen, * Conversation in the Street.' 89— By C. Dolci. * A Head of Christ.' 91— By A. van Dyck. * Portrait of a Lady.' 92— By A. van Dyck. ' The Holy Family.' 09 — By A. Everdingens. * Wild Landscape.' 117— By J. Hackaert. * View from the South of Switzerland.' 182— By Filippino Lippe. Italian School. * The Meeting of Joachim and Anna.' 201 — By A. Montegna. * Christ Has Risen.' 204— By Marinari. 'The Holy Cecilia.' Her festival is celebrated by the Roman Church, 22nd November. 205~By F. Mazzola. Portrait of Laur Cybo. 221— By D. Mijtens. ' Charles Stuart L' 272 — By Van Ryn Rembrandt. * Christ at Emmaus.' 273— Do. 274— Do. Rembrandt has constantly been compared to Titian by great judges, including Sir Joshua Reynolds. His great power, says Wornum, in his Epochs of Paintings, was portrait. His pictures of this class are, as a rule, superior to his other works — ** every care and every joy of the sitter's life is expressed," thus realising Ruskin's apophthegm, that " the highest thing art can do is to set before you the true image of a noble human being." But Rembrandt's curious roughness of painting by no means pleased all his patrons ; to such he would reply that he was a painter, not a dyer. A copy of the "Hundred Guilder Piece," Rembrandt's famous etching, was knocked down at the Buccleuch sale for the British Museum at £1300, 288— By P. Rubens. * The Judgment of Solomon.' 292 — By T. Ruisdael. * Dutch Landscape by a River.' FIRST RAMBLE. 25 293— By T. Ruisdael. ' Landscape by a River.* 326 — By P. Somer. 'Charles I. of England executed, 1649.* 331— By J. Steen. * The Miser and Death.* 349 — By Tintoretto. * The Marriage in Cana of Galilee.' It is said of Tintoretto that his manner resembled the colouring of * Titian,' with a vigour of design similar to 'Michael Angelo.* 359 — By G. Troppa. Representing Mary Magdalene. 387 — By F. Wouters. * Venus Mourning over the Slain Adonis. 418— By Albert Diirer. Portrait of Christian II. 461— By N. A. Abildgaard. 462— Do. 463-67 468-71 472-73 474-79 Abildgaard has the merit of having been Thorvaldsen earliest teacher. He was the leader of a new school, founded on the practice of David, under whom he had studied in Paris. 493 — By C. Bloch. *A Fisherman from Sorrent.' Tasso's birthplace, in Sunny Italy. 4 9 4— Do. * Samson in th e Mill . ' 495— Do. * The Raising of Jairus' Daughter.' 496 — Do. * Christian II. in Sonderborg Prison,' Island of Als. He was immured in this prison for twenty years, with no other companion than a half-witted dwarf, by orders of his uncle and successor, Frederik I. Copenhagen, be it remem- bered to its credit, refused to renounce its allegiance to the de- posed sovereign. Perhaps they recalled the proverb, ** Better the black angel you do know than the one you do not." 497— Do. * A Fish woman. ' 498— Do. ' A Kitchen Table.' Bloch, like Exner, Yermehren, and Dalsgaard, gives evidence of the sudden outburst of fervent patriotism which was called 26 FIRST RAMBLE, forth by the events of 1848, and by the disastrous termination of the subsequent war with Germany. Since then Danish artists have become very national in their choice of subjects, and their works have gained proportionally in originality and truth to Nature. 514_By Christian Dahl. * Battle of Heligoland, 1864.' 583 — By Hansen. * Room of Christian IV., at Rosenborg Palace.' 584— Do. ' Room in Town Hall, Briiges.' 585 — Do. 'View of Gammelstrand, (Fish Market,) Copen- hagen. ' 586^Do. ' Room of Gustav III., at Drotningholm.' 597 — By Elizabeth Jerichau. * The "Wounded Soldier. ' 597 — Do. * Portrait of the Sculptor, Jerichau.' 657— By W. Marstrand. 658— Do. 659 — Do. * Sunday by Siljan Lake, in Dalarne.' 660— Do. 661— Do. 662— Do. 663— Do. 664— Do. 665— Do. 666— By A. Melby. ' The Battle of Kjogebugt, fought 1677.' 667— Do. 'Eddystone Lighthouse.' 699 — By Reynolds, our famous English portrait painter. Portrait of a lady, name unknown. 725— By P. C. Skovgaard. ' A Summer Day in the Woods of Dyrehaven (Deer Park), near Copenhagen.' 7 43— Do. View. • North Coast of Sealand. ' 752— By F. Yermehren. * The Soldier's Funeral.' 760 — By K. Zahrtmann. * Queen Sophia Amalie, wife of Frederik III.' 761— Do. * The beautiful Eleonore Christine Ulfeldt, daughter of Christian lY. and Kirstine Munk.' *^* The porter who shows visitors about gets 50 ore. FIRST RAMBLE, 27 THE ROYAL THEATRE j . (det kongelige theater), Or Opera House, is in the Kongens Nytorv, and was founded 1739, by Frederik Y., and the new building opened 1st October 1874. It is built almost on the site of the old house, that had stood since 1794, "and was no longer adequate to the demand." The present is a magnificent building, and quite as imposing in its general efiect as the Paris Opera House. The architects were Ove Paterson and William Dahlerup. On the right and left hand of the chief entrance are the sitting bronze statues of the great Danish poets, Oehlenschlseger, by Bissen, and Holberg, by Stein. Adam Oehlenschlaeger was the greatest romantic lyric author of Denmark. He was born 14th November 1779, in a small house on Yesterbro, Copenhagen, and lived the rest of his childhood at Frederiksherg^ where his father held a situation as organist. He wrote a great many historic tragedies, and died 1850. The other, Ludwig Holberg, was born at Bergen, in Norway, in 1684. Frederick Y. created him a Baron. He is the wit to whom Denmark owes not only her National Theatre, but the very conviction that her vernacular Dano-Norwegian could be used as capably in giving expression to satire, wit, and poetry as the French tongue, which had up till then been re- garded as the sole medium of dramatic interpretation, "The Political Pewterer " was the first of his thirty plays, and was produced about 1722. (He endowed with his wealth the noted Academy at Soro, and rests in the church there near the warrior church- 28 FIRST RAMBLE, man Bishop Absalon). The craving for French plays did not entirely pass away till half-a-century later ; when Wessel, also a native of Norway, in his dramatic epigram or parody entitled, " Love without Stockings" (Kjoerlighed uden Stromper), 1772, gave the decisive blow. Now the theatre is a veritable school of patriotism, and in nothing is this more forcibly shown than in the ballet, which, under the form given to it by Bournonville fifty years ago, has been converted into a species of dumb poetry, in which incidents taken from early Northern history are interpreted by dancing and gestures, to which a special charm is given by the admirable musical accompaniments which Hartmann and other Danish composers have written for these pieces. As Goethe would say, "no" language is needed, for their bodies are easily understood channels for thought and feeling^ and nothing like what we understand by a ballet. This hallet d! action^ wherein the performer is both actor and dancer, originated in Rome during the reign of Augustus. The theatre will hold about 1500 persons; the royal box is seldom empty, royalty having evidently as great a liking for amusement as the subjects. The ceiling is divided into nine compartments, in which the muses are painted by Aagaard, after the design of Const. Hansen. Above the proscenium is an inscription of a motto retained from the older house, ** Not for pleasure only " (Ej blot til lyst). The spacious corridors are used as a promenade between acts, and make an agreeable break in the performance, and the exits are so ready of access that FIRST RAMBLE, 29 it may be safely affirmed the risk of loss of life, in the case of fire or panic, is reduced to a minimum. The season lasts from the 1st of September till the 1st of June, Sundays included, which is, unfortunately, often the best day. The prices are for this, the Royal (ordinarily raised double), 1st parquet (or stall), 3, 50, 4, 50, 7 kroner ; 2nd parquet, 2, 75, 3, 50, 5, pit, 2 kroner, 2, 50, 4, kroner ; balcony, 3, 4, 6 kroner. In taking the street which leads from the King's Newmarket (Kongens Nytorv), at the right of the Thottske Palace, we are in Bredgade (called in English Broad Street). Soon we arrive at a place called St. Anna Plads. Here we see to our right the Garrison Church, built in the shape of across, 1689, under Frederick IV. Let us continue the street, or rather avenue, which leads us into this square, until we see to our left the Amaliegadc Turning in here we have soon on our right Casino Theatre, which was built in 1846 by George Carstensen, the founder of the beautiful Tivoli Gardens. This theatre is known for its political meetings held in March 1848, that greatly influenced the future of Denmark. It contains two halls. In the large one operettas and comedies are given ; it holds 1800 to 2000 people. The other one only holds about six hundred, and is generally used for concerts. In winter, large mask balls and carnivals take place, occupying the whole building. The playing-season for the Casino lasts from the 1st of September till the close of May. The prices are — the floor, 1 to 9 row, and the 1st and 2nd floor-boxes, 1 30 FIRST RAMBLE, krone, 50 (2 krones) ; 10 to 16 row, 3rd and 4th floor-boxes, and standing-places near the stage, 1 krone, 25 ore, 1 krone 50 ore ; the other places on the floor, those in the furthest and back floor-boxes, in first storey, and the standing, places, 1 krone, 1 krone 25 ore ; the remaining places, 75 ore, and tickets for children, 35 Ore. Continuing the Amaliegade, we see also at the right the Palace, where the present royal family lived very quietly till they came to the throne. It is now occupied by the lately married Prince Yaldemar and the Princess Marie of Orleans. Now let us go through the pretty colonnade built entirely of wood in 1794 by Harsdorfl*, serving as a porch or entrance to Amalienborg Palaces, owing their origin to the desire expressed by Frederik Y. that the nobles should take up their abode in the north-east quarter of the town, which he was building. In obedience to this wish, Counts Levetzow and Moltke, the Dowager Countess of Schack, and Baron Brockdorfl*, caused four palaces, in the rococo style, uniform in size and appearance, to be built in 1760, in an octagonal square known as Amalienborg. The first building to the right was originally owned by the Countess Schack, and is now the residence of King Christian IX. The second palace, also to the right, is the town residence of the Crown Prince. To the left, from the porch by which we entered, is the palace that was used by the Dowager Queen Caroline Amalie, widow of Christian VIII., who died 1848. The second, since FIRST RAMBLE. 31 the fire at Ohristiansborg Palace, has been used as a museum and picture gallery. In the middle of the square is an equestrian Statue of Frederik V., by the Frenchman Saly, who was (1754-1771) director of the Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen. In continuing the Amaliegade we see to our right the Art Union, which formerly contained the Classen's library, but is now joined to the University library. Near this is the Almindelig Hospital ; it is intended as a home for men and women that are too old to work. The Lying-in and Nursing Hospital, erected 1788 by the Queen Juliana Maria, has a large and spacious locality at Amaliegade. The establishment has a treble aim : partly to receive unmarried women who are with child, for payment or without the same ; partly to give those women who aspire at becoming midwives an education as well practical as theoretical ; and partly to take care of the babies, when the mothers cannot afford to do it, or in other manner not able to support them. The average number of the children annually born here amounts to more than 1000. The children born in the hospital, the bringing-up of whom it defrays till they have reached a certain age, are for the most part placed at the houses of nurses in the town or in the country. In order to avoid epidemics in the hospital, only twenty patients are received at once ; and others are sent to midwives in town. Opposite the Lying-in Hospital is The Frederik Hospital. Frederik V. erected in 1752-1757 a large and excellently-arranged building 32 FIRST RAMBLE, in Amaliegade and Bredgade. It has room for 400 to 600 patients, and can every year receive at an average 4000 patients, of whom a great number have their cure gratuitously. Some sicknesses are not treated in this hospital. In the wards the greatest order and cleanliness prevails ; the curing is carefully performed under the inspection of the best physicians. For the enjoyment of such patients who are permitted to be in the open air, belongs to the hospital, a place called "the Green Court-yard." The hospital is in posssssion of very rich legacies. Facing the Amaliegade stands St. Alban's English Episcopalian Church, near the Custom House. It is the first English church erected in Denmark, and that alone say€ much for the ** church-going " nation we are supposed to be. As Mazzini said of his country we might say of our church, ** that there is little difficulty in find- ing people ready to give their lives, but very consider- able trouble to persuade them to give their money for it." Several attempts have been made within the last few years to raise the necessary funds for a church ; but they were too much after the style of the farmer, who asked Hercules to draw the wheels of his cart out of the mud, without making a strenuous effort himself. Had it not been for the assistance rendered by their Royal Highnesses, the Prince and Princess of Wales, I fear we still should have been unrepresented. The foundation stone was laid on Saturday, Septem- ber 19th, 1885, by the Princess of Wales, who was FIRST RAMBLE. 33 escorted to the ceremony by her husband and children, the Emperor and Empress of Russia, together with members of the Danish Koyal Family, whilst a Guard of Honour was formed by the blue- jackets from the royal yacht Osborne. The church was consecrated on Saturday, 17th September 1887, in the presence of the same distinguished company — namely, the Prince and Princess of Wales, the King and Queen of Denmark, the Czar and Empress of Russia, and the King and Queen of Greece, as well as sons and sons-in-law of the Danish King. The church is dedicated to St. Alban, who, besides being the proto-martyr of England, has always been greatly venerated in Denmark, relics of the saint having been carried over to England by Canute. The design of the building is Early English, and the materials are flints faced with limestone. Inside, the walls are lined with white limestone, and a dado of encaustic tiles runs round the church. The reredos and font are embellished with designs by Mr. George Tinworth. These, together with the pulpit, communion plate, lectern, and Shropshire tiles on the roof, are gifts from various British firms. The British Minister of Copenhagen, Sir Edmund Monson, K.C.M.G., also has presented a stained glass window; and the bells are from the Prince of Wales. The picturesque site on which the church stands, " at the entrance to the harbour," was granted on a perpetual lease by the Danish Ministry. The funds in hand, at the time of open- ing, amounted to £10,000, and were raised by 3 34 FIRST RAMBLE. committees in London and Copenhagen. The work has been carried out by Danish contractors, all drawings and designs having been supplied by the architect, Mr. Arthur W. Bloomfield, of London. CUSTOM HOUSE , (toldboden) Is that remarkably fine building situated to the right at the far end of the Amaliegade. In taking the street to the right called Toldbodveien, and follow- ing the promenade Gronningen (Green Place), we come to the place called Toldhodplads, where are large custom and packing-houses. The square is surrounded by a high railing. A visit here is highly interesting, as it gives one an insight into the great commerce and navigation of Copenhagen. LONG LINE (lange linie) Is a neck of land between the Citadel and the sea, leading from the Toldbodplads — a charming prom- enade, with a fine view of the Sound, is much frequented by the elite between two and four during the season. Like the other public walks and drives, the Long Line has taken the place of the old lines of defence, whose demolition has contributed alike to the health and the beauty of the city, which possesses the {peculiar) attraction of having no conspicuously poor or squalid districts. An order (easily obtained l)y your hotel porter) is required for driving there. Near the middle of the promenade there is a very FIRST RAMBLE. 35 pretty pavilion connected with a Cafe, where concerts are given in the summer evenings. To the north of the Long Line is IVAR HVITFELDT'S MONUMENT. " Death and danger he despises." The monument was erected in 1886 by Dahlerup upon a granite column, carrying on high a female figure, who is holding in her hand a palm branch. Ivar Hvitfeldt was commander of the line-of-battle ship, Dannehrog^ at the memorable battle of Kjo- gebugt, 4th October 1710. The Dannehrog took fire in the action, and Hvitfeldt might have saved him- self by leaving his anchorage and drifting ashore, but he would thereby have endangered the whole Danish fleet. The valiant captain and his heroic crew, there- fore, with certain death before them, fired broadside upon broadside into the Swedish ships, until the fire reached the powder magazine, and up they flew to glory. Surely, a nation that produces such men cannot die. As Holger Danske would say, ** There are still men in Denmark," that the conquests of eight centuries have left substantially the same as in the days when Ragnor Lodbrog chanted his death-song amid the encircling vipers, and Hobbo of Odinsee hewed Ella in pieces before the gates of York. Passing on we come to the BATHING ESTABLISHMENTS, To the north of Lange Linie, to be reached in the shortest time by going through the Citadel. Here 36 FIRST RAMBLE, is afforded a good opportunity for learning to swim without the danger of drowning. A place of moder- ate depth is barricaded off, with a long wooden bridge as an approach, and some one is engaged to keep watch in case of accident. The same good custom prevails in many other Continental countries, and nothing is worthier of our imitation; for the ** Drowning Fatality " is, sad to say, the commonest of all our newspaper headings during the summer months. Sea bath, 20 ore ; towel, 8 ore. Passing the bathing establishments, we turn to the left, and soon pass the Blind Asylum and Deaf and Dumb Asylum. The latter teach lip reading, and not finger language. Just behind the Deaf and Dumb Asylum is the GARRTSOlSi CHURCHYARD (garnisonskirkegaarden). This piece of ground is dotted with plain wooden tablets, all bearing the same terribly significant date, 1864, and the brief, touching inscription : — *' Died for the Fatherland ; " fit epitaph for such men, who knew, at least, how to die "like the brave men of Troy," when success was hopeless. Not a single man buried here was over thirty-five ! Picked men were they, Denmark's best and bravest — "rare food for powder," as the Imperial artillerist used to say of his legions. It was to prevent the incorporation of Schleswig- Holstein with Denmark, whose Dukes happened to FIRST RAMBLE, 37 be at the same time Kings of Denmark, that the Germans made war on the unfortunate Danes. The late Imperial Prince Frederick Charles Nicholas, styled the ** Red Prince/' a name derived from the colour of his hussar uniform — to us in England better known as the father of the Duchess of Connaught — commanded the overwhelming numbers and Prussian needle-guns at Dybbol. ** In pace requiescant." Now we come out on the Osterbrogade, and cross over to the burying-ground belonging to Holmens Church, and here we see the Churchyard of the Navy (Soetatens Kirkegaard). " I never can see a green churchyard But I think I may slumber there ; And I wonder within me what strange disease Shall bring me to homes so fair." You will not be sorry to have spent a little time in wandering over ''God's Acre" — the graves are so nicely kept, long after we in our country, with our shorter memories and more evanescent affections, would have ceased to remember the departed ; and the beautiful avenue of trees make an agreeable shelter for a stroll, where you may meditate on the fate that has befallen those who have taken "the step in advance." What a profound thinker was that Jew of the sixth century before Christ, who, beholding the fall of the empires of his time, exclaimed, *' Behold how the nations weary them- selves about nothing," for life, as Wendell Holmes says, " is nothing but the edge of the boundless ocean of existence, where it comes on sounding." One of the most striking monuments to note is the 38 FIRST RAMBLE. barrow-shaped mound, raised to the memory of the officers and men who fell in defending their city against Nelson, on the 2nd April 1801. The mound is not nearly so large as that of- England's heroes at Waterloo, but large enough, forsooth, to bring sad thoughts, and make one wish that some had shown the ** white feather," — " For those that fly may fight again, "Which he can never do that's slain ; Hence timely running's no mean part Of conduct in the martial art." The great cemeteries have, besides, many fine ornamental monuments, but they lack the pathos of those who died in harness, and who will say they died in vain ? Now let us take the tram back from the church- yard entrance to the Tram Station under the trees beside Frederikshavn citadel, or go into Bredgade (Broad Street) with the tram. To the left, as we go along Bredgade, we soon see the Catholic Churchy called St. Ansgarii, erected in 1842. Further along on the same side we see the Conservatory, or Musical School, founded in 1867 by a legacy.. The aim is to give, as far as possible, a comprehensive and solid instruction in music ; and beside it, ob- serve the former palace of the deceased Frederick of Hessen. Opposite this palace is the Marmorkirken (Marble Church). It was com- menced in 1749, after a grand design, but the money to carry it out was wanting ; so it has stood till lately, a pathetic spectacle of ancient Rome, and the folly of its promoters, who set to work to build a FIRST RAMBLE. 39 house without first counting the cost. The Danes are, however, quite as rabid as ourselves in their ideas about ruins being ornamental ; so it was partly de- molished to fit into a fresh design, under the manage- ment of Etatsraad Tietgen, who bought it with the understanding that it was still to be built as a church. Next we pass the Palace of the late Prince Ferdi- nand, bought by Prince George of Greece. Alexander Newsky Kapellet (Greek Catholic Church) is further along the Bredgade on the same side, and worth visiting. It was built in 1883 by the Russian Government, in the Byzantic-Russian style, designed by the architect Grimm, and executed by Meldahl and Jensen. Noteworthy for its three gilded domes, according to Russian style, and for its numer- ous bells seen from the street. In order to visit the church one must apply to the sexton, who lives in the building. It is shown on Mondays from - - - 10 to 12 „ ,, Tuesdays from - - - 12 to 2 „ „ Wednesdays from - - 2 to 4 In bad weather the church is closed to visitors. On the other side is a Permanent Exhibition (Kunstud- stilling) in Schimmelmann's Palace. Open every day from 9-4 ; entrance, 50 ore. Then we come to the beautiful Palace of Count Moltke, 2 Dronningens Tvcergade, corner of Bredgade, built in renaissance style. The Picture Gallery in this palace belongs to Count Moltke, who lives at Bregentved, an estate lying in 40 FIBST RAMBLE, the middle part of Sealand. The estate was a gift to Adam Gottlob Moltke, from Frederik Y., about 1745, along with the earldom. It contains about 150 works, belonging almost exclusively to the Dutch school of the 17th century, among which are some beautiful pictures by the greatest masters : — No. 8, Ruben's half-length picture of a monk ; 13-16, several genuine pictures from the younger Dav. Teniers, from 1646, 1666, 1667, and 1674 ; 32, Rembrandt, the image of an old woman (about 1656) ; 56-59, Jacob von Ruisdael, four pictures, two of which are rather extensive rich compositions, with falls and currents ; 50-61, M. Hobbema," woody Dutch land- scape, brilliant colours, broad execution ; 93, Paulus Potter, grazing cattle ; several genuine works by Phil. Wouwerman ; 89 (the stable) is to be specially mentioned. The greater part of this collection was, as the Royal Gallery, procured by Morel 1, dealer in works of art, in the middle of the 17th century. Open from 1st April till 1st November, Saturdays and Sundays. Entrance free. Catalogue, 70 ore. SECOND RAMBLE. From the King's Newmarket (Kongens Nytorv) we go to the left through the Gothers-gade, past the Rosenborg Palace garden (Rosenborg Have\ to the left Reformed Church, which was erected 1688. Opposite the church is the Parade ground^ which was formerly part of the flower garden belonging to Rosenborg Castle, but now used as a drill ground for the Foot Guards, whose barracks are close by. Then we pass on to the BOTANICAL GARDEN. '^ (entrance from the corner op gothers-gade.) The Botanical Garden was formerly at Nyhavn^ on a piece of ground belonging to Charlottenborg, but now laid out on the ancient glacis of the fortifica- tions and a part of the declivity of the rampart, with the intermediate part of the moat that is partly filled up with earth and partly preserved as a basin of water. Its area amounts to about twenty-two acres of land. There is a considerable museum, with lecture-rooms and library, several partitions for cultivating plants in the open air, sixteen hothouse partitions in two stories, a house for warm water- plants, and a Palm House, together with dwellings 42 SECOND RAMBLE, for the gardener and his assistants. The number of the plants is calculated at 12,000 in double specimens. The gardens are open from 1 o'clock till sunset (free). The Palm House open from April 1 till October 31, from 3 till 6 o'clock, but a small gratuity will give admission at almost any time. THE KOMMUNE HOSPITAL \j (tester farimags-gade). Note that handsome building looking down on the Palm House. Scarcely any capital in the world surpasses Copenhagen in the number of charitable foundations ; but, excepting the Communal (Kom- mune) Hospital, finished in 1863, none have any architectural attraction ; it is one of the largest and most prominently placed buildings in the city. The hospital is principally for the poor who have no room, and no means, to be nursed at home. Patients are taken in the whole day, till 8 o'clock p.m. ; patients are allowed to receive visitors from 12 to 2 and 4 to 6 p.m. In 1877 there were 7,670 patients. Turning back to entrance of Botanical Garden, we turn to the left. Beyond the Norre- volds-BouIevard, on a hill, is the ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY ^ (astronomisk observatorium), Erected on part of the old ramparts, near Rosenborg. Mr. Christian Hansen was the builder. The observa- tory is connected by an electric conductor with the time SECOND RAMBLE, 43 signal on Nicolai Tower, where a ball is lowered every day at ten o'clock. Tycho Brahe, called the " Prince of Astronomers." This monument was erected by Bissen, 8th August 1876 — ^just three hun- dred years after the founding of his observatory on the island of Hveen, where he discovered, on the 1st November 1572, the Cassiopeia, which so often goes by the name of Tycho Brahe's star. " Only Venus at her brightest surpasses this new star," he asserts. Science has since proved it to be no new star, but one that shines out with great lustre for a few months, once in a period of three hundred years. So the world wags on, and each generation of philosophers laughs at the con- clusions of their predecessors. ** Some day" all may be discovered, yet I doubt if we shall be much the happier. Aladdin remained a poor creature for all his genius. But the fact that, after three hundred years have passed away, his statue has been erected here, is an eloquent testimony to the abiding interest of his countrymen, and shows that time is necessary to the appreciation of genius. This eccentric, hot-tempered, superstitious man was born 14th December 1546, of a noble Swedish family, settled at Knudstrup, in Denmark ; then an inferior marriage having caused a family quarrel, Brahe pro- posed leaving the country, when Frederik II., unwilling to lose so gifted a subject, bestowed on him the island of Hveen, in the Sound,* where he might erect an observatory at the royal expense. The first stone was laid August 8th, 1576, and the castle was named by Brahe, " Uranienborg " (the castle of Urania). Here * It now beloncrs to Sweden. 44 SECOND RAMBLE, he was frequently visited by James VI. of Scotland and I. of England, who must have enjoyed his discus- sions on astronomy as well as the unshackled life of the Danish court, or he would hardly have converted his intended stay of ten days into nearly six months. A homely chronicler of the day gives an amusing account of James's anxiety to kiss his betrothed, the young Princess Anne, whose coy maidenhood was offended at the supposed familiarity until the manners of the royal bridegroom's country were explained. Now the pastime often gets full swing, as their progress in this, as in everything else, has been rapid. But to return to Tycho Brahe and his observatories — for he had two — the other was called " Stjerneborg " (The Castle of the Stars), After many fluctuations and loss of pension, consequent on the death of his patron, " King Frederik," this wonderful man had been by turns lawyer, duellist, chemist, astrologer, astronomer, a wooer of Cassandra, and a tapper at the lattice of the divine for a peep into the future, like the First Consul Bonaparte, who used to give his hand to the Sybil, *' Mademoiselle Lenormand," and had as much faith in her revelations as Brahe had in the jibberings of the idiot whom he used to listen to as to the \oice of Heaven. Died at Prague, 14th October 1601. His famous observatories were, some hundred years later, ignominiously pulled down by order of a rich nephew called Jorgen Brahe, known as the little king in Fyen, in order that the materials might be used in building his cattle sheds at Hvedholm. What a sarcasm on genius ! It has often been said that " a prophet is not without honour save in his own ROSENBORG PALACE. — Page 45. SECOND RAMBLE. 45 country and among his own kindred." The fate of Tycho Brahe's observatories goes far to prove the justice of that aphoristic utterance. EOSENBORG PALACE / (opposite the observatory). Rosenborg was formerly surrounded by water and provided with a drawbridge. Christian IV. built the qastle as a dwelling-place to which he could easily retire from the noise of the busy capital ; and when he felt his end approaching, he had himself conveyed from Frederiksborg here, that he might await death in the midst of his faithful subjects. For this purpose, the carriage was placed upon runners, and thus transformed into a sledge, drawn by eight horses, it carried the quiet procession across the drawbridge into the court-yard of beautiful Rosenborg, which King Christian on that day entered for the last time. The castle is built in the so-called German-Nether- lands-Renaissance style, — with numerous gables and towers. The castle is red brick and sandstone from Jutland. The builder was Inigo Jones, a native of London, and architect to the English Court. Amongst the principal works ascribed to him is the Palace of Whitehall, London, and the Edinburgh Parliament House. He died at the good old age of eighty, June 1653. The Palace is now reserved for the Chronological Collection of the Danish kings, and kept up at the expense of the State. The founder of the historical collection is 46 SECOND RAMBLE. said to have been Frederick III., son and successor of Christian TV, It has been continued in an unbroken series to the close of the reign of the last king. Its present admirable arrangement is due to the talent and technical knowledge of Professor Worsaae, who died in 1886. The Regalia is preserved here, and these, with the silver and Narwhale Coronation Chairs, guarded by silver lions, and other innumerable treasures of art (some of which are priceless), afford a striking proof -of the incongruity existing, under the autocratic rulers of Denmark, between the wealth and lavish expendi- ture of the kings and the general poverty of the nation ; for during the two centuries in which these costly objects were procured the country was ground down by taxation, till the State was nearly bankrupt. The castle forms a worthy casket for the extra- ordinary, beautiful, and valuable collection within its walls, and is thought not to have its match in Europe. The building has in course of time undergone many changes. For instance, the two massive stone stair- cases that gave admittance to the castle, have been removed, and the corridor has been repaired and hung with paintings, which are illustrations of the first two centuries of the Hoyal House of 01denborg» I wish I had the power to make them speak ; for I would have liked very much to have unravelled the history of each, for my own pleasure as well as yours, but the task is beyond me, and when I appeal to the pictures themselves they are mute. SECOND RAMBLE. 47 CHRISTIAN I Y.—(l 588-1 648)— AUDIENCE ROOM (audientssal). This is the first room the visitor is shown into from the corridor. The marble flooring was, unfortunately, removed, together with some others, to adorn Fredens- borg Castle in 1722, and replaced with painted wood, so as to give some idea of the former splendid one. The ceiling paintings are partly done on wood and partly on canvas. The walls are of oak, adorned with ninety-five paintings, dating, with a few excep- tions, from the time of the room, and are not of any great value. The chimney bears the date of the year 1615. There is no show of frivolous splendour, but great harmony, and attention to what would last through future times. Let us look in the north- eastern window and see Christian lY.'s famous voice- conductor. Four cupboards in the wall contain reminiscence of the older times, amongst which note QUEEN DOROTHEA'S BRIDAL ORNAMENT (Dronnixg Dorothea's Brudesmykke). It was a gift from Christian III.'s queen for the use of the citizen's daughters, who had also caught the passion for parade and extravagance that reigned amongst the nobles. Royalty had set the example, nobility would have nothing else, and the rest followed *4ike sheep over a dyke." The ornament was regarded as a precious gift, and is mentioned by Holborg in his History of Denmark, Peter Nissen speaks of it in his Treatise on Sams'6^ and several other authors. Is is of silver, with an eagle in the 48 SECOND B AMBLE, middle holding the Saxonian arms (the queen^s escutcheon), the uppermost border of which displays the date of the year 1557, in its talon. Framed in glass, at the back of this cupboard door, is the celebrated blood-stained suit that Christian lY. wore when he lost his eye in the battle of Kolbergerheide. THE OLDENBORG HORN (det oldenborgske horn) Takes us back to Christian I., the father of the Oldenborg line, 1448 to 1481. It is of silver, dis- playing a rich embellishment of figures of serpents and dragons, etc., in chiselled work. According to tradition, it is said to date from the 14th century, and connected with some event in the history of Christian I. The oldest tradition of the Horn says that Count Otto I. of Oldenborg had it given him by a fair maiden, whilst hunting one day in the forest, and having got separated from his companions. The side of a mountain opened, and out stepped a maid with the horn in her hand, and bade Count Otto drink the contents, and fortune would favour his house; then the fairy, having accomplished her mission, returned to Fairyland, a domain to which in difficulty people have as regularly betaken them- selves for a solution of a mystery as astronomers do to comets, or German philosophers to their *' inner consciousness." Another, and much more likely version of the Horn's history is, that it was intended by Christian SECOND RAMBLE, 49 as a gift to the three holy kings in Cologne, when he went to visit the German Emperor, Frederik III., on a mission of peace, a quarrel having arisen between the Archbishop of Cologne and the Chapter there. Near the edge of the lid is an inscription in black letters, " Baltazar, Caspar, Melcior " — names of the three holy kings — which bear out this idea. Then the king's heedless extravagance caused constant want of money, so that he may have thought the gift more useful to himself. Christian might have said with the poet Burns — ** Coin my pouches would not bide in," and is not inaptly named " the purse with a hole in it," and brings to mind some lines written, with smart audacity, by a young poet, on George III. going to ask Parliament for supplies — " Now, what to tax was the affair ; It could be neither hide nor hair.'^ The acceptance of the Slesvig-Holstein compact was only one of his acts by which the dismemberment of the monarchy was accelerated. Another was the long-contested Orkney and Shetland Isles, which he pledged to his son-in-law in place of the 60,000 gulden (about ,£6000) that had been given by him as a dowry for his daughter Margaret, on her marriage with James III. of Scotland, the result being, that as these lands were not redeemed within the appointed time, they became the property of the Scotch Crown. Amongst the few pictures of any antiquarian and artistic value in the picture gallery of Holyrood, 4 50 SECOND RAMBLE, Edinburgh, is one of the youthful Margaret of Denmark, who was married in the Abbey Church, close by, while yet in her sixteenth year — the youthful monarch not having completed his eighteenth year. She is said to have been a princess of great beauty and accomplishments. BED-ROOM (Sovekammer) OF CHEISTIAN IV. In which, on the 28th February 1648, he breathed his last. Here his chaplain, Laurits Jacobsen, asked him if he died believing in Christ; and the grand old king made answer, " Ne dubites *' — (Only do not doubt it.) Four rings in the roof have, in all probability, held the bed curtains. Among the pictures is one representing the king taking his last, long sleep. About the most highly interesting reminiscence is A CLOCK, FROM Christian IV. *s Childhood. (Et Uhr era Christian IV. 's Barndom.) It is in the form of a square gilded box, about two inches high and four inches long and broad ; the dial- plate is of silver, ornamented with Boman figures. The crowned initials of Frederik V. lead to the supposition that the clock had been repaired for him. A plate at the bottom of the box has the following inscription engraved in Boman letters : ** Anno, 1584. Gaf. Konning. Frederick Den. Anden, Til Denemark Och — Norge — etc. Sin — Son. Kristian Dette, Segeverk.*' (In the year 1584, King Frederik II. of Denmark and Norway gave this timepiece to his son Christian.) This clock is a special object of interest. SECOND RAMBLE, 51 not only from its dating from Christian's childhood, but also because people of that period were super- stitious enough to connect clocks with the "black art," so much so, indeed, that a mighty Russian Czar is said to have returned, with horror, the gift of a clock from Christian III. of Denmark, because " the tick- tack sounded in his ear as the voice of an evil spirit." Passing through other rooms, on a table note a silver equestrian figure of the king, which was given to him after the festival of his coronation. It is intended for A DRINKING CUP (Et Drikkebager), He is represented as clad in a suit of armour, with a plumed hat on his head and a spear in his hand. Beneath the horse is the king's fool. On the columns the names and coats-of-arms of the princes and of the knights, who distinguished themselves on that occa- sion are engraved. The whole weighs about 1000 ounces. When the horse is serving as a cup, the head is parted from the body, and the latter will not disappoint the thirsty, if he is able to lift it well filled to his mouth. KNIGHT-DUBBING SWORD OF CHRISTIAN lY. (Ridderslags-Kaarde). The blade is one of the renowned Toledo blades, which, during the 16th and 17th centuries, stood so high in the reputation of Europe. The hilt is of gold, ornamented with blue enamel and diamonds. The J 52 SECOND RAMBLE. dubbing of knights took place in the Knights' Hall ; here the king sat in state, surrounded by his brilliant court. The crown of the same king was made by a celebrated goldsmith named Thomas Fruren, of Odense, Island of Funen. Amongst the costumes is one Christian wore on the day of his coronation. It is in the style of a Spanish knight's dress, worked in gold brocade, inter- woven with flowers of silver and crimson silk. Another is a suit of Brabant lace, which he wore attending the funeral of his first-born son. Christian, the elected king. QUEEN ANNA CATHERINE'S SILVER FOUNTAIN (solvfontaine). It is thought to have served the queen at her toilet, and probably belonged to a greater collection of splendid furniture. The fountain is of silver, fitted with three basins and two reservoirs. The highest has been intended for incense, and the others for scented waters. The stand on which it rests is of ebony, ornamented with silver. Anna Catherine, queen of Christian IV., and lovely daughter of Frederick of Brandenburg, died on the 29th March 1612, in her thirty-seventh year, after having borne six children, three of whom survived her, the others having died in infancy. His morganatic wife was Christina Munk, the Chan- cellor's niece. Christian was doubtless the most energetic of his race, his only failing being over- indulgence to his children, and a love of women. SECOND I^ AMBLE. 53 Hawthorn says, **A11 brave men love, and the world at large does not account it a heinous sin in the male species." And Christian's subjects were like the disciples of old Cato, who, when it was proved to them that their great man got drunk, argued that Cato could not do a bad thing. FEEDERIK III.— 1648-1670. Frederik succeeded his father. Christian IV., at a time when the country was sunk in great misery, and the crown stripped of all authority by the nobles in their conditions of election restrictions of the personal independence of the monarch, which had hitherto been unknown in Danish history. In this king's reign the peace was signed, at Roskilde, which deprived Denmark of all her East-Sound provinces. Amidst all the valuable remembrances that carry us back to the days of Frederik III. there is only time to note one — a costume. It is a coat and breeches cut in the Netherlandish fashion. The material is a greyish-brown cloth. In front, on the sleeves, and along the seams is a trimming of gold and silver braid, while the hat is edged with gold lace. The white neckerchief has its ends spread on the breast, and is adorned with white lace. MARBLE ROOM (Marmor Varelset) Is a striking example of the intruding rococo. 54 SECOND RAMBLE. QUEEN SOPHIE AMALIE, Wife of Fredebik III. A table and stand for candlesticks. Both stand and table are richly adorned. A wreath of flowers surrounds two shields, the Danish with the lions and the hearts, and that of Luneburg with the leaping horse. QUEEN SOPHIE AMALIE'S JEWEL OASKET (SMYKKESKRiiN). This jewel casket is seen further on, but it is as well to mention it here. This is a relic which must always be of interest to English visitors, for it was a gift from our Queen Anne, who had married George, the son of Frederik III. and Sophie Amalie. The material of which the casket is composed is chiefly silver, ornamented with cut crystals, through which the bottom of the box is seen, whereon is a relief of embossed work representing the Paris Judg- ment. The casket is also decorated with thousands of diamonds. OHDER OF THE ELEPHANT (Elefantordenen). It is the principal Danish order, and of equal rank with the most celebrated of foreign orders, and one of the most ancient badges of honour in Europe. The Order owes its origin to Christian I., as King of Sweden. It has long been reserved for royal and other highly distinguished personages. Its badge SECOND RAMBLE. 55 consists of a white and gold enamelled and diamond- studded elephant, bearing a tower on its back ; and on state occasions is worn suspended from a massive chain of alternate elephants and towers similarly adorned, from the neck. The Knights' mantle of the Order is of crimson velvet, lined with white quilted satin, adorned with a broad collar of the same material, with a large star on the left side of the breast ; a long train is for princes only. The complete costume of the Order will be seen hanging among the various kings' clothes, and are well worth noting. On the 1st January the Chapter of the Knights of the Elephant is held. THE ORDER OF THE GARTER (hosebaandsordenen). This Order has been given to seven Danish kings — namely, Erik of Pomerania, who received it from Henry V. ; Hans, from Henry VII. ; Frederik II., from Elizabeth (whom he is said to have asked in marriage) ; Christian IV., from James I. ; Frederik VI., from George IV.; Frederik VII. and his majesty, the reigning king, received it from Queen Victoria. Frederik II. seems to have been the only king not very anxious to receive the honour intended by the gift. Lord Willoughby, who was entrusted with the mission, tells an amusing story of how he had to satisfy the king of the honour intended, by sending him a picture of a man attired in the habit of the 56 SECOND RAMBLE. Order, together with the use of the statutes. The king had objected to array himself in the habit, or to submit to any other ceremonies than that of simply receiving it in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. But after all was clearly explained by the English negotiator, his majesty acquiesced in receiving the whole, and went to Kronborg, where great preparations were made to celebrate the event. It was on Tuesday, 13th August 1582, that the king, surrounded with a splendid Court, received the Order. After the ceremonies all the guns in Kron- borg, it is said, thundered across the swelling waves the tidings of the honour that had befallen King Frederik. The Order of the Garter has its origin, as most people are aware, in the finding of the Countess of Salisbury's garter at a ball by Edward III., the finding causing much merriment to the surrounding knights, till Edward turned the laugh upon them by holding up the garter, and vowing that it should retain such honour that many would sigh for it often and long. The habit of the Order consists of a suite of white silver tissue, hat with waving plumes, and a blue velvet mantle, on the left side of which is an octagonal star, with the cross of St. George, and the ribbon with the motto, ** Honi soit qui mal y pense " (Evil be to him who evil thinks). The badge of the Order itself consists of a garter of blue velvet with the motto in diamonds. The Order has not had many good banquets in Queen Victoria's time, as her majesty dislikes extra expense almost as much as the fatigue of entertaining company. But Madam SECOND RAMBLE. 57 Tussaud, in London, has a model of the late King of the Belgians in full array. George, the patron saint of England, is said to have appeared miraculously, like the Dannebrog, when the Crusaders were beginning to lose heart at the siege of Jerusalem, But, again, another historian describes him as George of Cappadocia, who was born in a fuller's shop, and an infamous extortioner and heretic, who was killed in Alexandria in the year 361, because of his many iniquities. The 23rd of April is held sacred to the memory of St. George, by an order of the council of Oxford passed 1222. CHRISTIAN v.— 1670-1697. Note a remarkable article of dress from this king's time — namely, a red silk jerkin, interwoven with silver elephants and stars, in all probability a kind of intended habit of the Order of the Elephant. FREDERIK IV.— 1699-1730. When Crown Prince he was married to the Princess Louise of Mecklenburg, on the 5th Decem- ber 1695. His wedding dress is thought to be the most beautiful of all the costumes at Rosenborg, and that is saying much. The coat and breeches are of crimson velvet, adorned with silver embroidery. Frederik's other wife was Anna Sofie, daughter of his chancellor. Count Reventlov, with whom he made off in Quixotic fashion from her father's house, near Randers, to Skanderborg Castle, where a bishop performed the marriage service with a readiness that does not give too favourable an idea of the Danish 58 SECOND RAMBLE, king and his clergy in the early part of the 18th century ; for the lady was not only married, but crowned Queen of Denmark and Norway the day following the first queen's burial. Like Pat, I suppose the king thought — "Ain't she as dead now as she iver will be ! " After the death of Frederik, Sofie was banished from Court, and returned to her old home to die of small-pox, doubtless wishing, like Wolsey, that she had served her God with half the zeal that she had served the king. ROSE ROOM (VARELSET ROSEN). This room retains its name from out of the glory of ancient times. The tapestries with which the walls are decorated, are thought to have been brought by Frederik lY. from Italy, and are imitations after Raphael and other masters, all nearly of mythological purport, such as the fables of Psyche, gamboling Cupids, Galatea, etc. The magnificent chandelier of cut crystal is, according to tradition, a gift from Louis XIV. to Christian V. Below the chandelier stands a table and arm-chair of silver, thought to be made from the silver works of Kongsberg, one of whose pits belonged to Anna Sophie. The chair also bears the Norwegian arms and the date 11th October 1715. Don't forget to look at Frederik IV. 's picture ; it is by the renowned French Court painter, Rigaud. CHRISTIAN VI .—1730-1746. Christian went abroad in disgust after his father's hasty marriage with Anna Sofie. Whilst at the SECOND RAMBLE, 59 dazzling court of Dresden he met and loved Sophie Magdalena of Brandenburg Kulmbach Baireuth. They were married in the castle of Prestsch, near Dresden, on the 7th August 1721. The kinor's wedding costume is of a dark brown colour, almost hidden under a close layer of inter- woven silver bouquets and gold embroideries, which must have made it so heavy and stiff that the wearer could scarcely have felt comfortable in it on a hot summer day, and must have made Christian feel that the parade of greatness could at times be burden- some. AN ESCRITOIRE (et chatolskab). This dates from the year 1735, and is said to have been made by a cabinet-maker named Lehmann, at a cost of 1 000 gold ducats (about £450). This money has been long out of use. The work on the escritoire is con- siderable, and must have tried the skill and patience of the maker during many years. All the drawers, for instance, are entirely of rosewood and gold, plate- glass, mother-of-pearl, and ivory ] while the cabinet doors have glass within and without. The three rows of drawers disclosed are inlaid with birds, antelopes, and flowers. If a spring is pressed at the bottom of each side of the interior of the cabinet an edge juts out, that has conceated a row of secret drawers. The lower part of this unique piece of furniture is also a repository for curiosities. When the upper drawer of this, the lower part, is drawn out, we see a harpsi- chord as complete as it could have been made while 60 SECOND RAMBLE. piano-manufacture was yet in its infancy. The tones can still be heard, though their sound may not be very harmonious to the musical ear. HIRSCHHOLM GOBLET (hirschholmsbageret). This goblet dates from the dazzling days of Sophie Magdalena, when Rosenborg was in its glory. Accord- ing to tradition, the goblet served as a welcome goblet for the feasting at the castle, and went, therefore, by the name of "The Welcome of Hirschholm." It is of silver, about twenty-two inches high, and consists of a bowl resting on the head and one arm of a boy. The bowl forms a resting-place for six highly-gilt silver beakers, each beaker being marked with the cone of the pine-tree, and the arms of the city of Augsburg, which implies it was made there. Augs- burg was at that time famous for its embossed silver-work. Through this queen's influence a reign of religious persecution was introduced into the country, and stocks erected without the walls for those who offended against the royal ordinances for public worship. Note some ivory. A great deal of it has been sculptured by Magnus Berg (1666-1739). FREDERIK V.— 1746-1767. Frederik and his Queen Louise, daughter of George IL of England, possessed that treasure more precious than rubies — the love of their subjects. The king's wedding-dress is so complete that not SECOND RAMBLE, 61 even the stockings are wanting. There is part of another dress which the king wore whilst inspecting the working of a new cannon, which exploded, and nearly blew up the king and two of his subjects. Instead of being angry, however, with the unhappy inventor, the king tried to console him by promises of once more attending his practices ; and to the pupil who became a cripple he gave a pension for life, and to his five sisters after him. He was called Johan Magnus Kruse. The name of the other who perished I do not know. The coat the king had on is made of scarlet cloth, with plaited skirts, large cuffs, and pouch pockets on the sides, adorned with a trimming of broad gold lace on the seams, pockets, cuffs, and folds of the skirt. Frederik married for his second wife Juliane, daughter of the Duke of Brunswick. CHRISTIAN VIL— 1766-1808. The sight of his wedding costume recalls happier days, and is about the last of the old style. It is entirely of silver tissue, richly decorated with flowers, garlands of spangles, and gold foliage. The em- broidery on the waistcoat and cuffs consists of lines crossing one another, with a small ornament of each square, all of gold. CHRISTIAN VII.—GALA SWORD (galakaarde). It is thought to have made up part of the wedding suit, and is of great splendour, having a gold hilt, 62 SECOND RAMBLE. decorated with a quantity of large and small diamonds, that are introduced on a dull ground as flowers, which form garlands. Queen Caroline Matilda's Writing-Table (dRONNING CAROLINE MATILDA'S SKRIVEBORD). The sight of this writing-table awakens many sad thoughts; beside it is the chair, where the then happy young queen used to sit — confiding the dearest thoughts of her heart to paper. Both pieces of furniture are of gilded wood, dating from the end of the rococo period. The chair has an embroidered seat and back, and the table a dark grey marble slab and a leaf that may be let down and pulled out, by which a simple desk appears, consisting of the leaf, three drawers, and three compartments for paper, etc. — that is the whole. They were saved from the fire at Frederiksborg, and stand here as a souvenir of blighted hopes and a short-lived life. Queen Victoria in her youth is said to have borne a great likeness to this princess, except in having darker hair and a brighter fate. Caroline Matilda was but sweet sixteen when she left her home and came a bride to Copenhagen ] and, alas, the year had not turned its wheels many times before public favour fell away, for it is a sensitive plant, like the thistle- down — " Far and wide it flies." Rumour, says Virgil, is the youngest daughter of Earth, and John Newton has very aptly compared it SECOND RAMBLE, 63 with pin-making, for there is usually some truth, which he calls the wire, as it passes from hand to hand ; one gives it a polish, others make and put on the head, and at last the pin is completed. *' Oh, me ! a quick and eager ear Caught up the little meaning sound ; Another voice has breathed it clear, And so it wandered round From ear to lip, from lip to ear, Until it reached a gentle heart, And that — it broke." An old story — the vows of unchangeable fidelity — had proved empty air, and the feeble-minded husband, knowing neither how to keep or defend the unfortunate woman who had linked her fate with his, was early induced to believe in the charge of treason and disloyalty brought against her through the intrigues of the Queen-Dowager. ** For man is fire, and woman is tow, And the somebody comes and begins to blow.'* Our Princess was included in the charge of Leze- Majesty, on which Struensee (the then Court Physician and Prime Minister) with his friend Brandt, were convicted and broken on the wheel, and the Princess sent a prisoner to the fortress of Kronborg, just a few days before the death of her mother. Two years later the great Reaper gathered to himself the hardly- opened flower which man had thrown away. It was on the iOth May 1774 she died in Hanover, whence she had been removed by orders of her brother, George III., who had sent a squadron to convey her 64 SECOND RAMBLE. from Kronborg. Seldom has the fickleness of human fortune been more strikingly illustrated than in the case of the Princess Caroline Matilda of England, and Queen of Denmark. Her descent was rapid, like that of a spent projectile — perhaps mercifully so. Since then history has not only cleared her name but prefers to remember Christian YII, in the early years of his reign, before increasing debility of mind rendered him a passive instrument in the hands of others. CHRISTIAN VIIL— 1839-1848. This king was half-brother of Christian VII., and is chiefly remarkable as presenting the first instance of a break in the descent from father to son, that had lasted for more than three hundred years. FREDERIK YII.— 1848-1863. With this king the direct male line of the House of Oldenborg became extinct. He was the sixteenth king of that line, and died November 15th, 1863. By a treaty, signed in London on May 8th, 1852, by the European powers, the succession to the crown was made over to Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein- Sonderburg Gliicksburg, father of our Princess Alexandra of Wales. MIRROR ROOM (SPEIL VARELSET) Stands a reminiscence of a monarch's freak. Here you may survey yourself to your heart's content, SECOND B AMBLE, 65 in either ceiling, floor, or walls, as all will reflect your august person. The Czar Paul is said to have spent hours walking to and fro in full uniform in his Mirror Room — a strange freak for the ugliest man in Europe. KNIGHTS' HALL (riddersalen). • This is a large room on the upper floor, somewhere over a hundred and fifty feet long, and over a hundred broad. The present form and appearance dates from the time of Frederik lY. The chief ornaments in the ceiling are four reliefs, representing important acts of government under that king — namely, Abolition of Villanage^ 1699; the Institution of the Land Militia, 1701 ; the Institution of the Dragoons, 1702; and the Eiirolment of the Sailors, 1704. The twelve tapestries on the walls are woven after cartoons drawn by the painter, Peder Andersen, and represent subjects from the Scandinavian War; and all the conspicuous figures are portraits of persons who took part in the wars. At one end of the room hangs velvet drapery, and in front THE DANISH KING'S CORONATION CHAIR (de danske kongers kroningsstol). Also that of the queen's. They are not quite alike, the king's having been made by order of Frederik III., who only thought of his successor, whose consort, Charlotte Amalie, would be excluded from taking 66 SECOND B AMBLE, part in the coronation in consequence of having pro- fessed the Keformed Religion. The king's chair consists of narwhals' teeth, which, at the time the chair was made, had a value of their own in silver, and was made at Augsburg, together with the three silver-lions, " Denmark's escutcheon," fronting the throne. The twelve silver pedestals arranged down the room are for candlesticks to rest on, and are all in use at coronations and other solemn or great occasions. THE ROYAL BAPTISMAL FONT (den kongelige dobefont). Is also kept in the Knights' Hall, and dates from 1720. It has a height of one ell and twelve inches (three feet), while the diameter of the basin, including border, measures one ell and nine inches (two and three quarter feet). The whole is of silver, weighing 180 ounces, and richly gilded. On the bottom of the basin is displayed the Baptism of Christ by John in the River Jordan. The font was first used at the baptism of Frederik Y., who was born March 1723. At christenings another basin is placed within the font, and, when not in use, is kept with the candlesticks among the regalia, which are all of gold, executed in embossed work. Leading from the Knights' Hall are three turret chambers, each holding a rare and valuable collection. The one containing the so-called younger regalia, which consists of the closed crown, the sceptre, and the globe, made by a goldsmith called Kasper SECOND RAMBLE, 67 Herback (Kunst Kasper), is not open to visitors. In the other two rooms are collections of porcelain and glass of every variety, from the opal, amethyst, emerald, and sapphire. Note particularly the filigree or thread-glass, from the once famous glass factory on the island of Murano, near Venice. They date from the 17th century, and were procured by Frederik IV. during his sojourn there. An English catalogue, at much greater length than this, and beautifully illustrated, can be had at the entrance, and should be purchased to look over at home. The guides who show visitors over the palace all speak English. *^* Tickets — 6 kroners for 12 persons, to be had the day before from the Inspector at the Palace. Shown daily. Rosenborg Garden {Have\ also called the KING'S GARDEN (kongen's have). This garden has two entrances, one from Kron- prindsessegade and the other from Ostervold. The grounds are surrounded by a high iron railing, divided into sections by thirteen stone pavilions, which are let out as shops. Within the grounds are avenues of magnificent trees, such as are seldom seen in the heart of a city. Under their agreeable shades the children disport themselves in such num- bers that it has come to be styled **The Kindergarten" (Bornehave) of Copenhagen. Amongst the numerous handsome monuments that 68 SECOND RAMBLE, adorn the grounds, we will first look at the children's story-teller — Hans Christian Andersen, f / He stands prominent as that of a writer whose works have become the heritage of the whole civilised world, and who, in his tales, struck a new vein of literature, which, although repeatedly followed, has not yet been reached by others. The monument was modelled by Saabye, and cast in bronze by Holm. Andersen is represented just as I think he should be — that is, in the act of relating one of his own tales to a group of eager young listeners. The statue is six feet ten inches, and rests on a polished block of granite ornamented|with subjects in bas-relief, illustra- ting some of his tales. Can you remember the fable of the stork arriving with a new-born child from the secret lake of the Well of Life It Well, that is one of the subjects, and above is written, ** In Memory of the Fairy Tale- Writer.'' Andersen was born at Odense, 2nd April 1805, and died in Copenhagen, August 1875. He rests in the cemetery near the philologer, Rasmus Rask. The monument was raised by voluntary contribu- tion to the amount of 27,000 kroner (equal to £1500). Near the castle is A Lion Struggling with a Horse, which Christian IV. caused to be cast in bronze, after the antique, and a statue of the same king, modelled by Thorvaldsen. The Hercules Pavilion, constructed 1773, by Harsdorf, receives its name from a group near A SECOND RAMBLE, 69 the pavilion representing the contest of Hercules with the Nemean lion, and its slaughter with his own hands — one of the twelve feats of strength and courage Hercules is said to have successfully achieved. In two niches at the sides are statues of Orpheus, the poet, musician, and philosopher, whose name is prominent in the early legends of Greece, and that of his wife, Eurydice, who died from the bite of a serpent. According to one account, Orpheus himself was torn to pieces by the women of Thrace, for his excessive sorrow at the death of his wife. These, with the two marble medallions, were made V>y John Barrata, at Florence. The once-beautiful flower gardens have been turned into a place for drilling soldiers, and the splendid laurel house into ugly barracks. We leave the garden of Rosenborg by the chief entrance, Kronprindsessegade, and go to the left. At the corner of the Dronningens Tvargade is a Roman Catholic Chapel in Gothic style, built 1879. The altar picture is painted by Baumeister. It is open all day. We continue now to the left to the Solvgade, then take the Bigensgade to the right. Further along this street is the Children's Hospital, which was erected by free donations. If we take now the next street to the right, Moriansgade, then we see ST. PAUL'S CHURCH. This church is built in Gothic-Byzantic style, and designed by the architect Gundtzmann. The exterior as well as the interior make an agreeable impression. On the altar is an inscription — " Jesus says, I am the 70 SECOND RAMBLE. Life and the Truth,*' and a picture representing ** The Last Supper." The latter was formerly in the Palace Chapel at Frederiksberg. From here we go to the right, to the Borger- gade ; follow it up until the fourth opening to the right, the Klerkegade. In doing so we come to the FREEMASONS' LODGE. If we continue further to the right, through the Borgergade, we come back again through the lower part of the Gothersgade, to the King's New- market, or Kongens Njrtorv, THIRD RAMBLE. We will begin to-day by taking the Ostergade from the King's Newmarket. This is by far the liveliest street in the whole town. Here people show oflf their new dresses, bow to their friends, cut their enemies, and chatter small talk. The same thing, no doubt, occurred in the Appian Way, the fashionable street in Imperial Rome. History repeats itself, and every city is bound by all the laws of civilisation to have one special street wherein the votaries of fashion can congregate. Picturesque groups, indeed, are those which fill it, and as heterogeneous as the army of Hannibal. Many a vaunted landscape or belauded museum is less remunerative, I feel, then a stroll down the Ostergade. You feel prepared for any marvel of the old world, and would hardly start at hearing Andersen's storks criticising the libellous ditty carolled in their dishonour by the naughty boys of the Ostergade, or at seeing Fru Morgana flitting past in her dazzling chariot, and rosy-cheeked Hjalmar floating seaward in his toy bark, crunching the endless sticks of enchanted barley-sugar. To the left is a well-known cigar-shop, which devotees to the fragrant weed would do well to enter and purchase the day's supply. 72 THIRD RAMBLE, No. 13 is the well-known Cellar, with splendid Restaurant and Beer-room. The second street from \ here leads away to Nicolai Tower. It is in a square of the same name, surrounded by butchers' shops, and is the remains of the beautiful Nicolai Church, that was burnt down on 5th June 1795. The tower, an imposing structure, is now used as the head-quarters of the fire brigade of Copenhagen ; from its battle- ments are given time-signals at one o'clock, which is done by the falling of a ball. From the summit a good view of the city, which unfortunately lies on a very flat plain, is afforded to the eye. At the end of the Ostergade we turn into the Store Kjobmagergade. At the corner of the first street to the left, along here, we see the Post \ Office^ A little further along are the Public Baths. Beside these note some trees belonging to TRINITY CHURCHYARD. y Under these sleep, after life's fitful fever, the poets Johann Hermann Wessel and Johannes Ewald. The former it was who, in his mock tragedy, *' Love Without Stockings," gave a decisive blow to the affected taste for stilted heroics and the classical unities. The latter, in " Rolf Krage," gave Denmark her first tragedy, and in his well-known song, in English by Longfellow — " King Christian stood by the Lofty Mast " — supplied words for her national anthem. The two graves are close together, and ornamented with a beautiful monument designed by Evers. It THIRD RAMBLE. 73 consists of a square pedestal, on which two allegorical figures are seated representing Mirth and Sorrow. On the upper part are the two heads of the poets. The inscription runs thus : — Here lies the dust of the poets, Wessel and Ewald, who expressed in a vivid manner mirth and sorrow to the joy of the people. To the left, Johann Hermann Wessel, born in Westby, on the Christiania Fjord, the 6th of October 1742 ; died in Copenhagen, the 29th of December 1785. ** Tears melted into smiles when Wessel's humour flowed, But joy and smiles in sorrow vanished at his death." To the right, Johannes Ewald, born in Copenhagen, the 18th of November 1743 ; died in Copenhagen, the 17th March 1781. **The head quiet and serious like the church, the feet carried misery in the narrow town. Here sacred strength and consolation, there trouble and need. Thou didst stand in life as thou didst lie in death.'* — Oehlenschlager. TEINITY CHURCH ^> (trinitatis kirke), Designed by the Swiss architect, Scheffel, and intended by Christian IV. as a church for the university students. Their library was deposited in its lofts and galleries, whilst the ROUND TOWER //"^ (runde taarn) W^as to serve as an astronomical observatory. The Y 74 THIRD RAMBLE, tower was built after a design of the Danish astronomer, Langberg (Longomontanus), and has a height of 110 feet, so that its summit forms a good vantage-point for obtaining a general view of Copenhagen. At our feet, ** Traced like a map the landscape lies." The broad, gradually-ascending walk leading to the top of the tower leaves us little reason to doubt the truth of the popularly accredited tale of Peter the Great, when visiting Copenhagen in 1716, having ridden up on horseback, while the Empress Catherine made the ascent in a carriage drawn by four horses. Over the entrance to the Tower is the following quaint Latin inscription : — " Doctrinam et Justitiam dirige Jehovah in corde Coronati Regis Christian Quarto, 1642." (May the Lord direct with know- ledge and justice the heart of King Christian IV., 1642.) The outer walls are plain and heavy in appear- ance compared with the grace and lightness of the Leaning Tower at Pisa. The Tower may be visited every Wednesday and Saturday from 12 to 1 (gratis) ; and every day at almost any hour, on payment of 10 ore per person. There is also a ladies' waiting-rqom near the entrance. Let us now return to the Kjobmagergade till we come to the Krystalgade, wnere we see at our right the Synagogue, which was built in 1833, by Professor Helsch, in Egyptian style. Further to the left, at the same corner of the Fiolstrade, is THIRD RAMBLE. 75 THE UNIVERSITY. This handsome building was founded by Christian I. in 1479. It is built in the Gothic style, by Professor Mailing. A broad staircase leads to the entrance through which one comes into the hall. Here are two marble statues by Bissen — Minerva and Apollo. Opposite the entrance is the fete room. There are several beautiful pictures here. One represents The Consecration of the University in the Frue Kirke on 1st June 1479, and is painted by Marstrand. The second, on the same wall, is Hans Tausen (the Danish Reformer) protecting the Roman Catholic bishop, Joachim Ronnow, from the outrages of the citizens of Copenhagen ; it is painted by Carl Bloch. Another picture, also by Bloch, represents Tycho Brahe receiving James 'V/ of Scotland in his Palace, Uran- ienborg, called the Castle of Urania, on the island of Hveen. Hansen and Hilker have also chosen local incidents for their admirable frescoes. LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY Stands at the corner of Krystalgade and Lille Fiolstrade. It was erected after a plan of the architect Herholdt, and consists of two different parts, a smaller one nearest the square of Our Lady's Church. The walls are of red bricks, with black and yellow stones by way of ornament. The library of the University possesses more than 200,000 volumes and manuscripts. The library of Classen, established by the brothers Joh., Fr., and Peter H. Classen, con- sists of almost 36,000 volumes, for the most part in mathematics, natural history and physics, geography 76 THIRD RAMBLE. and technical sciences, and is annually increased by a sum destined for that purpose by Fr. Classen. The Library is open daily from 11 till 2 o'clock for books, and the reading-room from 11 till 3 o'clock. ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM In the building with the University, near the Church of Our Lady. The building is composed of four wings, with three stories in the form of balconies, constructed after a design by Professor Chr. Hansen. The hall is lighted by a glass roof, and in it stand most of the large skeletons. In the rooms distributed over the three stories are the smaller zoological collections, of which I intend mentioning only a few. ROOM I. Has a small shell, especially deserving notice, since it is supposed that the world contains only three such specimens. The British Museum, I was told, offered £200 for this one. The name is Conus Gloria Maris. Amongst the oysters are some of extraordinary dimensions. Though their breadth will hardly, like Captain Nemo's famous oyster, measure two and a half yards, yet to eat a few dozens would doubtless tax the stomach of a Gragantua. ROOM III. Here are some fishes, preserved in bottles, exactly like a human being, called ** Somunken " (Monk of the Sea). THIRD RAMBLE, 77 ROOM VI. Contains a varied assortment of corals. ROOMS X. AND XI. Searhorses. The collection of insects, especially butterflies, are large and varied, the hues of some of these latter shading away in all colours of the rainbow. An outer building is reserved for specimens of the whale species. A word about the whale. Many people think that because the whale has no ears, nor funnel-shaped gristle for catching sounds like donkeys and men, they cannot hear ; but the whale hears with his nose. Man and the suck-giving animals have a cavity at the back of the mouth into which the wind- pipe gullet and nose passage open. There are two eustachian tubes leading to the middle chamber of each ear by which we hear the sound of our own voices, whether the mouth be open or shut. In the whale it is somewhat different. For breathing pur- poses the whale's nostrils, or " blow-holes," not being adapted for smelling, are placed on the top of the head ; so when that part comes above the surface, and the nostrils are in breathing action, the wide eustachian tube of the whale opens, and the same passage that admits air to his lungs admits at the same time sound to his ears. Open every Sunday and Wednesday from 12 till 2 P.M. Admission free. Near the University, at the corner of the St. Peter- strade, is the St. Pet|:i-Kirke, a pretty Gothic church. It is a German congregational church. 78 THIRD RAMBLE. The high, beautiful tower is a great ornament to the church j it is shown by the *' Overgraver " (verger), who lives at No. 9 St. Peterstrade, by paying two kroners. A few steps further in the Norregade, No. 39, is the Folketheater. It contains 1400 seats, and is used mostly for the representations of Parisian comedies and operettas. If we return to the St. Peterstrade, we see to the left the Walkendorfske College for students, also the Polytechnical Institution. We now continue our road in the Norregade, passing the bishop's residence, and then we stand on the Frueplads. This pretty square is bounded on the left by the University and its library, on the north by the Metropolitan School, on the east by Our Lady's Church (Vor Frue Kirke), and south by the Bishop's Seat (Bispegaarden). That part of the square which is separated from the other is intended for a Pantheon for Danish University teachers and artists ; but up to the present time there are only four monuments — viz., busts of the botanist, J. F. Schouw (1852) ; the composer, C. Weyse (1842); the theologian^ Professor H. N. Clausen (1877) ; and the theologian, Bishop Mynster (1854). Close to the University, at the corner of the Fiolstrade, is OUR LADY'S CHURCH / (vOR FRUE kirke). This, the oldest and best endowed church in Copen- hagen, was founded about the twelfth century ; and here from that period till the establishment THIRD RAMBLE, 79 of absolute sovereignty in 1660 the coronations of the successive kings and queens took place in it. Here our unfortunate princess, Caroline Matilda, was married in the autumn of 1766 to Christian VII. She was driven in an elegant new state carriage, made for the occasion, drawn by eight white stallions. I wonder, had she no misgivings that her happiness was too bright to last, or did she not read forebodings of future sorrow in the cloudy, autumnal sky and withered leaves, as she went to meet her fate ] Lockhart beautifully says of Sir Walter Scott, *'we hear the sound of the muffled drum." " Gather the rosebuds while ye may — Old Time is still a-ftying, And that same flower that blooms to-day, To-morrow may be dying." The building was several times destroyed by fire, and has now no particular architectural beauty — thanks to Nelson's bombs in 1807, they did their work well. Since then the church has been rebuilt by Hansen, in a style similar to that of the Basilica. At the entrance we see ** Moses, with the Tables of the Law," by Bissen ; " David," by Jerichau (school of Thorvaldsen), the latter Jerichau carried off the palm from our own Royal Academy with his group representing " Adam and Eve after the Fall." The numerous figures over the doorway, portraying " John the Baptist preaching in the Desert," are by Thorvaldsen; also the "Entry of Christ into Jerusalem" — the former modelled 1821-22 at Rome, the latter 1839-40 in Denmark. so TRIED RAMBLE, Now we enter the church, which looks at first some- what cold till you have seen a *' masterpiece " — Thorvaldsen's celebrated "Christ" — then the whole becomes at once invested with a solemn grandeur. The sight of St. Peter's at Rome must always inspire the beholders with a feeling of awe, but somehow there is a want of the fitness of things. The roughly- cut grim statue of St. Peter is neither awe-inspiring nor in harmony. Tradition says it was originally an old Pagan god, and traces it back to Capitoline Jupiter. If, indeed, it is the Galilean fisherman crucified head downwards by old Rome, he must be rather astonished at new Pome kissing his very statue's toes away ! Here Christ stands at the head of His own Church with outstretched arms, welcoming us, in a triumph of majestic beauty, to the altar. It surpasses all the works I have ever seen in sculpture in its appeal to human sympathies. Christ seems in the very act of delivering His own loving invitation, *' Come unto Me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I *will give you rest." I know I am no judge of art, but Thorvaldsen, all must allow, was great ; — the clue and the sword were his, and he has wielded them so well that the world is not likely to let his name die. The inscription on the wall above Our Saviour reads thus: "This is My beloved Son; hear Him." The twelve Apostles are ranged on either side of the nave leading to the central figure, and give complete- ness to the whole. Note the high hero-bearing of the impetuous Peter — the stately solemnity that THIRD RAMBLE, 81 clothes the massive forehead of James the Proto- Martyr — the flowing hair and sweet serene face of the beloved disciple. Judas Iscariot is not represented. St. Paul has been sculptured by Thorvaldsen himself, the other statues were modelled by him, and made by his pupils. The beautiful Baptismal Font is in the form of a shell uplifted by a kneeling angel, at the chancel steps. The rotunda over the altar is decorated with figures in plaster, representing the walk of the Saviour to Golgotha. Over the entrance to what was the con- fessional there are bas-reliefs of '*The Baptism," and *' The Lord's Supper," and over the alms-boxes reliefs representing " Caritas " and " The Guardian Angel." In the corridors, monuments in marble of deceased bishops and ministers of the church. The interior of the church open every day from 9 till 11 o'clock (drink-money, 25 ore). The view from the tower of Frue Kirke is similar to that from the Round Tower, 25 ore, 1 kr. THE TOWN HALL / (raadhuset) "Was built during the reign of Christian YIL, near the Market, after a design of the architect Hansen. The foundation-stone was laid by the Crown Prince Freder ik (late Frederik YL), on 28th September 1805, but the building was not finished until 1815. The principal entrance is in Nytorv (New Square), where may be read the first words of the Jutish law of 1 240 : " Med Lov skal man Land bygge," — literally, 6 82 THIRD RAMBLE. '* Land is to be built by Law " (Justitia regnorum fundamentuin). If we continue along the Norregade to the left, we come to the Gammeltorv (Old Market), in which there is a pretty fountain. On great occasions it throws out golden apples, to the great amusement of the young folks. The bronze statue in the centre represents " Benevolence." We return now through the Nygade to the HOLY GHOST CHURCH f (helligaands kirken), Which stands at the corner of Vimmelskaftet. It was burnt down in the great fire of 1728, then rebuilt in the same style — viz.. Renaissance. The tower is 200 feet high. Hans Tausen, the Danish reformer, defended his doctrines in this church ; and here is a painting of another reformer, Luther, by Adam Miiller, in which he is depicted as appearing before the great German Council at Worms, April, 152L Charles V. of Spain, who had just been crowned German Emperor, is here, sitting at his first Germanic Diet, surrounded by an august assembly, whilst before them stands Luther, looking so calm and composed, as though he felt the fiat had gone forth, " Touch not Mine anointed, and do My prophet no harm." Luther is robed in a monk's dress, clasping in his right hand the Bible, that Holy Book of which Sir Walter Scott writes — ** Better had they ne'er been born, Who read to doubt, or read to scorij." FOURTH RAMBLE, We start at the right-hand side of the King's Newmarket (Kongens-Nytorv), at the corner of the Lille Kongensgade, pass the Koyal Theatre, and continue in a S.E. direction till we come to the Holmens Canal. In the middle of this street is a square where stands NIELS JUEUS MONUMENT, // Erected to commemorate the 200th anniversary of his great battle at Kjoge Bay, July 1, 1679, and built by Professor Ch. Stein. It is of bronze, and is 12 feet high without the pedestal. On the front is the name of the hero, underneath his coat-of-arms, ornamented with the Elephant Order. The right side is decorated with Denmark's, and the left side with Norway's coat-of-arms. At the back weapons and anchors are placed. 14,000 lbs. of metal taken from the cannons, found nearly 200 years after the battle at the bottom of the sea, were used in the making of the statue. Sufficient for the whole expenditure was raised by voluntary subscriptions on the part of the nation. Now we are passing- the 84 FOURTH RAMBLE. Students' Union (Studenterforeningen). Then comes the King of Denmark Hotel and the new NATIONAL BANK. 1/ The National Bank is a very fine building that has been erected by the Professor Herholdt in the course of the years 1866-69. Situated at Holmens Canal, it belongs to the great assem- blage of considerable buildings that are suc- cessively occupying the territory of Gammelholm. It is built of granite and bricks, and is in every respect fire-proof, being at the same time very con- veniently fitted up, with large and beautiful localities. The time for business is from 10 to 3. A little further, still keeping to the left, and we are at HOLMENS CHURCH (KIRKE). (ox HOLMENS CANAL). This was originally a chapel for the dockyard men, raised to the dignity of a Parish Church by Christian lY. in 1642, and thoroughly restored 1872. It is, I think, the busiest of all the churches in Copen- hagen so far as christenings, weddings, and funerals are concerned. The most remarkable feature is the Mortuary Chapel, where the dead of the parish rest till the funeral takes place. Within this dismal building stand two sarcophagi, enclosing the remains of Den- mark's two great sea-heroes, Niels Juel and Peder Vessel, the latter better known by the name of Tordenskjold. FOURTH RAMBLE. 85 '* Niels Juel gave heed to the tempest's roar — * Kow is the hour ! ' He hoisted his blood-red flag once more, And smote upon the foe full sore, And shouted loud through the tempest's roar, ' Now is the hour ! ' Fly ! (Should they for shelter fly ?) Of Denmark's Juel who can defy The power ? North Sea ! a glimpse of vessel rent Thy murky sky ! Then champions to thine arms were sent ; Terror and death glared where he went ; From the waves was heard a wail that rent Thy murky sky ! From Denmark thundered Tordenskjold, * Let each to Heaven commend his soul. And fly ! ' " On the monument of Niels Juel, who died in 1697, are eight bas-reliefs representing the principal events connected with his brilliant exploits in the Swedish wars. Tordenskjold fell in a duel in his twenty- ninth year, 1720. The only epitaph his black marble sarcophagus bears are the words '* Dynekilen," "Marstrand," and " Elf sborg," which three names recall the daring deeds that raised the sailor boy, Peder Vessel, to the rank of an admiral, and under the name of Tordenskjold, *' Thunder-Shield," made him a terror to the enemy, and a veritable shield to his country. Tordenskjold was born at Trondhjem, October 28th, 1691. When only nineteen years of age he commanded a man-of-war, Ormen. Soon after he took the command of the frigate, Lovendals Galej. In 1718 he was appointed rear-admiral, and created a 86 FOURTH RAMBLE. knight, under the name of Tordenskjold. In 1719 peace was concluded with Sweden, and Tordenskjold, wishing to travel, went south ; but he did not get any further than Hanover, where he met the Swedish Colonel Stahl, " who provoked a quarrel with Tor- denskjold. A duel ensued, in which the latter was killed in his twenty-ninth year — an untimely death for his country, for what fruit might not have been expected from the golden autumn of such a mani Ours is the best method of redressing wrongs — the Law Court. One of the most memorable duels that occurred within our own shores was the "Waiting Duel," and most worthy of imitation by other duellists. This is the record of it — " Earl Chatham, with his sword drawn, Stood waiting for Sir Richard Strachan ; Sir Richard, longing to be at him, Stood waiting for the Earl of Chatham." Amongst the objects of interest most worthy of notfe in the church is a monument to Frue Falsen, by Thorvaldsen, and another to the Hoppe family, by his master, Wiedewelt. On the altar are two massive silver candlesticks (a gift from the Countess Danner, left-handed wife of Frederik VII.). She did much to promote the welfare of the working classes from which she sprung. Such marriages, however, have not been common with us since the days of our merry monarch, Charles II. For permission to see the church, apply to the sexton (graver), Nielsen, Admiralsgade, No. 16. To the left of the church there is a newly-erected FOURTH RAMBLE. 87 Bronze Statue, Tordenskjolds, by Bissen, jun. We now cross the new Hoi mens Bro (bridge), and then take the road to the left. Note the EXCHANGE {y^ C' BORSEN ^'). There are many splendid buildings in Copenhagen, but the most remarkable is that sensitive barometer of public opinion, the Stock Exchange, near Holmens Canal. It was founded by Christian IV., 1624, to provide shops for the Christiansborg district. The style of building is after the Dutch Renaissance, with a tower of 140 feet, which is formed by the entwined tails of four dragons turning their heads downw^ards in the direction of the four corners of the w^orld. The building is very long and narrow, but in proportion to the length, and decorated with multitudes of figures. Both entrances have magnificent porches, but that towards Slotspladsen has four Tuscan pillars of Italian marble. At this entrance is a hillock planted with trees ; to the left a statue of Mercury, to the right one of Neptune. In the hall of the Exchange is a statue of Christian lY. by Thorvaldsen. In 1853 the building passed by sale to a company of Danish merchants and stockbrokers, who are bound by the State to maintain it in its original form. 'Change-time, every day 2.30 to 3.30; admission money after 2 o'clock, 20 ore. To the right of the Exchange are the Ministerial Buildings, or, as they from former times are called, the Chancery Buildings. They stand opposite to the Exchange, and are composed of a very large principal 88 FOURTH RAMBLE, building erected by Frederik lY., whose marble bust is to be seen on the front side, and three buildings later purchased, and formerly belonging to a certain Mr. Lerche. We pass these and follow up the fine new street, Slotsholmsgade, past the iron bridge Knippelsbro. This bridge takes us to a part of the town called Chrlstianshavn. We first take the Lille Torvegade till we come to the Strandgade, at the end of which is the Tyske (German) Freder- ikskirke. We now continue along the Torvegade, cross the Bornehusbridge, and follow up the canal to the left as far as St, Annagade, where we see OUR SAVIOUR'S CHURCH (VOR "frelsers kirke"). V <* Our Saviour*s Church " is conspicuous for its unique external winding-stairs, consisting of 397 steps, protected by a balustrade. The church was consecrated in 1696, and stands as another monu- ment of the energetic Christian IV. In 1752 the tower was surmounted with a colossal figure of the Saviour, Who, standing on a globe, bears in His right Hand a banner of victory. At the corners of the square base of the tower are the four Evangelists. Shown to visitors by the sexton, who lives near the church. Twelve persons, 2 kr. We turn back in the Torvegade, cross the Market Place, and take the street to the left, Overgaden over Vandet, as far as the fortress. We continue along here to the Langebro, a wooden bridge separ- ating this part from Copenhagen. At the Kongens FOURTH RAMBLE. 89 Bryghus (King's Brewery) we turn into the small street to the right, till we come to the Frederiks- holms Canal, where we soon perceive to the rights at the corner of the Ny Vestergade, THE PRINCE'S PALACE, Erected 1680, by a rich merchant, and bought by Frederik lY. as a dwelling for the Crown Prince Christian. It was afterw^ards rebuilt, and used by later branches of the Royal Family. Now it belongs to the State, and is converted into a Museum, free to the public on certain days, which are stated in the newspapers. This, the so-called OLD NORTHERN MUSEUM (de nordiske oldsager), Is dedicated to a collection of relics from the stone and bronze ages, and various are the arms and armoury dating from those periods, from the simple knife, axe, and arrows fashioned out of flint, to the equally simple, but more deadly weapons with which science enables man the more readily to slay his brother. Indeed, it is a collection of the greatest possible scientific value, and no other country possesses so complete a series of objects illustrating the con- secutive stages of development reached by its inhabit- ants, in their progress from a savage to a civilised condition. The Museum owes its origin, in 1807, to the exertions of Professor Nyerup, and now numbers upwards of 40,000 objects, some of which, either 90 FOURTH B AMBLE. from their character or the intrinsic value of the materials and workmanship, have helped to throw important light on ethnological inquiry. Under the guidance of such able archseologists as Thomsen, Engelhart, and Worsaa, the Museum has acquired a world-wide reputation, and to them and other Danish savants science is mainly indebted for the idea followed out in this collection of considering such remains in reference to the three distinct periods now familiar to us under the terms of the Stone, Bronze J and Iron Age. The Museum is thus divided : — I. Stone Age, until 1500 b.c. — Rooms 1 to 3. II. Bronze Age, until 250 after Christ. — Eooms 4 and 5. III. Iron Age. — Rooms 6 to 9. IV. Christian Middle Ages, about 1030-1536. — Rooms 10 to 15. V. Modern Times, until about 1665. — Rooms 16 and 17. Early Danish Age. 81. — Middle of room. An oak chest from Store Hoi, near Ringkjobing, Jutland^ containing, amongst other things, two carefully-preserved wooden basins, one of which is decorated with Tin Tacks. 82. — An oak coffin (lid wanting). In it the body of a man, about forty or fifty years of age, a round cap on his head^ a petticoat tied about him, and kept together by a woollen cloak, fastened with a wood pin. The coffin was found under a hill about twenty feet high and about one hundred and twenty FOURTH RAMBLE, 91 feet broad, at Borum-Eshoi. At the end of the coffin is a box containing some bronze swords, knives, etc., also found in the top of the same hill 83. — Middle of room. The lower part of a coffin, containing the body of a young man wrapped in clothes, also found at Borum Eshoi. By his left side lies a scabbard of wood, wherein is a bronze dagger. The comb, made of horn, was discovered under the shoulder, and the round box, made of bark, stood at his head. 119. — From a grave on Brokser-Mark (field). A large bronze kettle, in which was found, besides bones, a quantity of articles that are often heaped on a funeral pile — viz., swords, knives, scissors, cups of bronze, silver, and glass. 155. — A peculiar carriage, with bronze mounting and tracing of saints ; a chair belonging to it. The carriage has, doubtless, been used for carrying an idol at religious ceremonies. They were dug up in parts of Dejbjerg Mose (moor bog). 174. — On either side of the little church of Jellinge, in Jutland, are mounds, telling of the last resting- place of Gorm the Old, and his Queen, Thyra, sur- named '*Dannebod"(the Dane's Ornament), and Harald Blaatand, their son. They are thought to be the last mounds of heathen burial erected in Denmark, and date from the middle of the ninth century. After several researches during the present century, there was found, in 1829, under Thyra's mound, a room built of oak, surrounded by thick clay and stones, 92 FOURTH RAMBLE, and covered in with wood and layers of stones, a few articles of value ; but the room had already been dis- covered and ransacked, nor did renewed researches into the mounds in 1861 lead to further discovery. ((x) In Thyra's mound was found a silver drinking cup, having an outer ornamentation of animals, besides inside a thick coating of gold. (6) A hanging bronze cross, ornamented with gold, found in the earth near the entrance to the room. (c) Part of a box. The clasps and hinges from a box made of bronze, ornamented with gold. (d) Pieces of silk ; fragments of a glass drinking cup. (e) Wood square with coloured pattern (probably the top of a table). (y*) Figure of a man ; pieces of carved oak, show- ing profiles ; parts of the beams from the room, besides wooden spades that were found within the mound. 175. — Some bowl-shaped spangles, found in the mounds or tombs of females ; a large wooden square, held together by iron clasps ; parts of the dress in which the body has been clothed, such as pieces of woollen cloth, trimmings of gold and silver brocade, fur trimming, and a leather shoe. 176. — Complete harness for several horses. In the middle, a highly ornamented drinking cup, partly gilt, and four smaller ones of silver. All were found, one within the other, on Osterby field, on the island of Feio. Below are urns from Fohr, containing ashes and several weapons, drinking cups from various places, of clay. One cup contained a silver treasure. FOURTH RAMBLE. 93 Iron Age. 179. — 8th Room. Necklaces, with ornaments in the shape of the Hammer of Thor — remarkable re- minders of the utter ignorance of the true God. {a) Dug out of a hill in the parish of Seier, near Holbsek, covered by a flat stone. The coins are all (with the exception of one English coin, stamped between 940-946) from Persian regents, 896-942. {b) Found in the parish of Magleby, on the island of Niven, covered by a flat stone about one foot underground. (c) Found in the parish of Vester-Yedsted, near Haderslev Schleswig, same year, containing gold coins principally. (d) Large silver Buckle decorated with Niello, and inlaid with Soloplate, found in Mollebakken, near Odense, Fyen. 187. — Oasts of two reliquaries (or boxes), which are supposed to be of northern work. One is kept in the Oathedral of Camin, the other in the Bamberg Cathedral. 192. — Room 11th. Ivory horn (so-called Rolands- horn or Oliphant) with carved representations of battle and hunting scenes. Once presented to Ole Worm by King Frederik III. Belt with buckle of whalebone, on which is carved St. Michael and the Dragon. Draught and chess (figures) of whalebone and bone, from different periods of the middle ages. (a) Knife handles made of whalebone. (b) Box made of same material ; also various 94 FOURTH RAMBLE, articles made of bone, found in a field near E/Oskilde, where a factory for such things existed. The Later Middle Ages. 193. — Keys, weapons, riding requisites, skates (of bone), etc., found at Sjoring So, near the castle which was destroyed 1086, when the rising took place against King (Kong) Knud. 195-196. — Silver coins and melted silver lumps found in an earthen vessel under a large stone in the parish of Clemensker, on the island of Bornholm, together with coins, the latest being from King Magnus the Good (1047). Also remnants of silver gilt vessels found at Haraldsborg Yoldsted, near Roskilde, with 600 silver coins from the time of King Niels ; believed to have been relics buried when Erik Emun took the castle, 1133, in which his brother, Harald Kesja, was imprisoned. Twelve finger-rings of gold, several set with sapphires, amethysts, pearls, etc. 197. — Queen Dagmar's Cross. A beautiful en- amelled golden relic-cross, taken from her grave in the convent church of Ringsted, an ancient burial- place. This queen was the wife of Yaldemar II., Sejer (the victor), who lived in the twelfth century, called the "darling of the people." She was buried in the convent church of Ringsted, where rested all that could ever die of Denmark's bravest and best- beloved kings, the Yaldemars. Another golden relic- cross, with a chain terminating in dragons' heads. This style dates from the heathen time. The cross FOURTH RAMBLE, 95 is engraven with images of saints and crucifixes, and bears the inscription — *' Olaf Cununce " (ancient Norse word for king). E-ound the figure of one of the saints is traced the word " Snvi (va)," meaning, without certain date or year, ^ine vera anno. Olaf the Holy, first a Yiking (pirate), was chris- tened in his thirtieth year, at Rouen. He conquered the whole of Norway, but the severity with which he governed prepared the way for Canute the Great. The banished Olaf returned from Russia, and was slain at the battle of Stiklestad in 1030. It was said that he arose again, after being dead, stretched out his arms, and ascended up to heaven. The pious Norwegians, w^ho had just renounced the errors of Paganism, wanted, perhaps, a national saint, so what was left of him was buried with great magnificence at Trondhjem. Then the shrine of St. Olaf became famous. Not even Thomas- a-Becket, in later days, was held in such veneration as this sainted martyr- king, until 1541, when the Danish Lutherans, in the fervour of their religious zeal, plundered the shrine. But the saint was revenged, for part of the treasure was sent by sea, and lost, while the remainder fell into the hands of robbers on land. The cross was found on Ouro, an island in Isefjorden, Denmark. 220. — A representation of Our Saviour's Grave, from Kjerteminde Kirke. 283. — A chair which belonged to the great astronomer, Tycho Brahe. 284. — A silver altar, from the prayer-room in 96 FOURTH RAMBLE, Frederiksborg Church. Made in the sixteenth century, at Augsburg, by Matthew Wallbaum. 296. — A carved wooden bedstead, thought to date from the time of Frederik II., or that of his son and successor. Christian IV. 310. — Note Book for the year 1616, belonging to Christian IV. 312. — Peder Vessel, or Tordenskjolds. Some of his letters, his sabre, with the date 1717 on the hilt, and the fatal pistols, with his monogram. 315. — A piece of wooden wainscot, beautifully inlaid with mother-of-pearl, from the palace of Christiansborg, when it was pulled down during the reign of Christian VI. THE OLD NORTHERN MUSEUM (de nokdiske oldsager). Open every Thursday from 12 till 2. From May 1st to September 1st, also every Tuesday, from 5 till 7 ; in September from 3 till 5 on Tuesdays ; and from May 1st till September 1st, every Saturday, from 12 till 2. In winter, every Sunday and Thursday, from 12 till 2. THE ETHNOGRAPHICAL MUSEUM (kgl. ethnographiske museum), Also in the Prince's Palace, may almost vie with its older associate, the Old Northern Museum, in interest and scientific value, and is one of the richest museums FOURTH RAMBLE. 97 of Europe, containing thirty-five rooms in two principal divisions. 1st. — The Ancient Time, comprising European (except those of Scandinavia), Asiatic, African, and American antiquities. 2nd. — The Modern Time — objects showing the religious ceremonies, customs, domestic and military life, arts and industries of the principal non-European nations, of a primitive or stagnating civilisation. Greenland and India are especially represented, and well worth seeing. West Greenland. 54. — A bridal costume. 55. — A mother carrying her baby on her back in a sort of hood called an amaut. 56. — A mother belonging to North Greenland, with B, her young son, and C, her daughter ; D, a cloak used by them, made of skin ; E, a game with rings that is played by the grown-up people. 71. — A Greenlander's tent, fitted up, even to the stones which are to keep close the sides of the tent. The curtain of skin inside is to shut off the part used as kitchen and sleeping-room by the family ; the settle is a jack-of-all-trades, serving as table, chair, and bed. Almost every family have a tent of their own. The Greenlanders are said to be a very hospitable people. North America (Labrador). Labrador is the vast North American peninsula to which, nearly four centuries ago, Corte Real gave 7 98 FOURTH RAMBLE. the name of Labrador (cultivable land), presumably upon the lucus a non principle ; for those portions which have hitherto been explored by Europeans are described as some of the most barren regions of the globe, and absolutely destitute of vegetation. 78. — A, an Esquimaux man ; B, a woman ; C, a cloak of goat's skin, always worn by the Esquimaux when on the water in his cajac (boat). He does not use the Greenlander's tunic, but simply laces his head and waist into a cloak of skin, and fastens himself into the cajac; thus he is waterproof when he has on (D) the stockings of sealskin, or (E) of reindeer skin. From the North-West Coast. 84. — A, a rattle used by the Kadjak for their dances, resembling a tambourine ; B, a woman's costume made of feathers, for use at festivals. Indian America. 100. — Representation of a chieftain of the Sauks- Kiokuk, holding in his right hand a tomahawk or battle-axe. 102. — The full costume of a chieftain doctor. The ornament of dyed hair attached to the head is used as a mark of singular bravery ; ornaments are in the ears, a pipe or calumet, besides more ordinary pipes, a tobacco-pouch, pipe-cleaner, the substitute for tobacco, called knirk-knirk, a bow and arrow, a tomahawk, a scalp, a scalping-knife with sheath. FOURTH RAMBLE, 99 107. — Masks that are worn on certain occasions by members of what is called the False Face. The other masks of rice are used at the rice feasts by- young Crow Indians, who divide themselves into small parties, and go from wigwam to wigwam with noisy mirth. One of their celebrated festivals is called Huli Festival, and answers to our All Fools' Bay. Guinea, in Africa. The greater part of the Gold Coast belongs to Great Britain, but the climate is so unhealthy that the country is called the *' white man's grave." Lower Guinea belongs in part to Portugal. 153. — A fishing-canoe to hold three persons. It has been hollowed out by fire. Dutch Colonies. 200. — Costume from Java. 208. — A farmer's carriage, in use in the west and east provinces, and which is generally drawn by buffaloes. 225. — A young Dajak, bringing an enemy's head, which he himself has struck off, dried, prepared, and ornamented, as an offering to his bride. New Caledonia One of the largest islands in the Western Pacific. 242. — Masks which are worn by the people at their festivals, especially at religious dances. 100 FOURTH BAUBLE, Japan. The Japanese principally worship an idol called Amidas. The idol is on horseback, the horse having seven heads, and the head of the idol like that of a dog. The prayer consists of three words only, which signify "Ever-blessed Amidas, have mercy upon us." 288. — Costume of a rich Japanese of rank. The costumes are almost the same for both sexes and all classes, only differing in texture according to the rank and riches of the wearer. It consists of a long thin gown, of which the gentlemen generally have on six at once, while the women have often about twenty at one time ; they are held together round the waist with a belt, to which the gentlemen suspend their swords, fan, pipe, and tobacco-pouch, an inkstand and medical box. Stockings are only in use with the better class, and soft papers take the place of pocket- handkerchiefs, which are disposed of on convenient occasions. 292. — In rainy seasons the peasants protect them- selves with a large hat made of fine bamboo stalks, and a cloak made of plaited straw or palm leaves. China. The Chinaman worships his ancestors to the third and fourth generation (not beyond), from the Emperor downwards. 339. — Represents a Chief of the Imperial House- hold Troops, who form the guard-of -honour to the FOURTH RAMBLE, 101 Emperor. His rank is indicated by the lace of the Mandarin, on which are hanging yellow beads. India. 607. — Model of a carriage standing in a temple at Trankebar, in which the gods were supposed to drive at the yearly processions. Sometimes a fanatic Indian would throw himself under the wheels, as it was believed he would go to eternal bliss if the deities had passed over him. 413. — A glass case in window contains Persian, Bengal, and other books. The most remarkable are translations of the Old Testament ; and a book of musical tunes, written by an Indian chief, who was also a professor of music. In it are some flattering lines composed on the Prince of Wales's visit to India in 1876. The words are as follows : — " Neither the moon, nor the precious pearl, nor the bright cam- phor can bear comparison with thy brilliant fame. In the moon there is a spot, in the pearl there is a hole, in the camphor volatility; but thy fame is spotless, solid, and ever-enduring." 447a. — Some really splendid jewellery and orna- ments from Kuttak. The goldsmiths in Kuttak are famous for their artistic silver ornaments, which can- not be made in such perfection at any other place in India. They wash the silver with the juice of a fruit, that makes it almost pearl-white. 447b. — A market-place near Pucculoe, about twelve miles from Calcutta. 102 FOURTH RAMBLE, Turkey. 463. — Represents a Turkish Princess in a rich festival costume. These princesses live till about their tenth year shut up in the harem amongst their own sex, and are only seen veiled by men. Their time is spent in idleness, such as smoking and telling stories, their only useful occupation being the em- broidering of slippers. This mode of life gives them a very white, delicate complexion. 469. — An officer who is called Ustha, or head- cook. 473, — Here are some elegant carriages ; one of them was a gift from the Viceroy of Egypt, Mehemed Ali, to the Danish Consul in Alexandria at the time. 476. — On a stand, in the middle of the room, is a remarkable pipe, called " Nargile," or " Nargilly." This, the Ethnographical Museum, is open, from 1st October till 30th April, every Sunday from 12 to 2, and every Wednesday from 10 to 12; from 1st May till 30th September, every Monday and Friday from 10 to 12, and every Wednesday from 5 to 7. (Free.) A large collection of steel and other engravings, as well as sketches, in the Palace of the Prince, amongst which, note particularly those of Durer, who presented them to King Christian II. in 1521, when the latter went to visit the Emperor Charles Y., his brother-in-law, at Brussels. Open every Tuesday and Friday from 11 to 2. (Free.) FOURTH RAMBLE, 103 THE COLLECTION OF MEDALS AND COINS, Palace of the Prince, Amount to more than 30,000 in number. Open from May till the end of September, every Monday from 12 to 2. (Free.) See newspapers to be exact about day. Now let us tram or walk back to the Kongens Nytorv. FIFTH RAMBLE, From the King's Newmarket we pass Niels Juels' Monument and Holmens Church. Crossing Holmens Bridge we have, facing us to the right, CHRISTIANSBOEG PALACE, [ " Men said at vespers, * All is well ! ' In one wild night the structure fell." Situated on the north-western side of Slotsholmen (the Islet of the Palace), where once stood the Axelhuns that Bishop Absalon erected, 1168, against the Yendish pirates. Scarcely any building has undergone so may altera- tions as this palace, for nearly all the kings, from Erik Plougpenning, son of Yaldemar Sejr, to Christian YIIL, have rebuilt and changed it, and fires have demolished it. Christian YI. had the whole place pulled down and erected anew with great splendour, as though it were to last for ever, instead of which, it stood little more than half a century. Then a fire, February 1795, consumed all except the stables and out-buildings. Again, in October 1884, it became a victim to the flames. A son of Erin suggested dynamite as the cause of the last burning; but there is not room for Irish- Americans in Denmark. FIFTH RAMBLE, 105 In the same building is held the Rigsdag, or National Diet, which consists of the Landsthing and the Folkething — the former a Senate or Upper House, the latter a House of Commons. The repre- sentatives have three years of power, and the members are paid a salary of 15s. per day. The average number of working days in a session is about 145, so that the total amounts to £108, 15s. Each chamber can propose and discuss a measure, but the king's consent is required to give the resolution of the Diet legal efficacy, and under special urgent cir- cumstances the king may promulgate a provisional and temporary law. Notwithstanding occasional dis- turbances, which in some countries might have brought about critical results, the Danish Govern- ment has, on the whole, maintained a well-balanced political equilibrium since people and king have shared in the exercise of constitutionally-established rights and obligations. EQUESTEIAN STATUE OF FREDEEIK YII. (founder of the constitution, 1848-1863), Faces the principal entrance. The statue was cast in bronze after the model of Bissen, and inaugurated October 6th, 1873. The late building was constructed on the plans of Hansen, whilst the front was adorned by works of Thorvaldsen. Above, reliefs : — Minerva and Pro- metheus, Hercules and Hebe, Jupiter and Nemesis, .^sculap and Hygea. Beside the porch, standing in niches, four allegorical bronze figures — Strength, Wisdom, Health, and Justice (the latter by Bissen). / 106 FIFTH RAMBLE. Interior. It was my intention to have given a description at some length of the furnishing of the Royal Apart- ment, and for that purpose I had gone over all, note-book in hand, only a few days before the fatal fire of October 1884. Now I shall only mention a few things. The pictures from the Gallery on the top floor of the pala,ce are now on view at Charlottenborg. Amongst the departed grandeur I must mention the large Ball Room, or Knights' Hall (Riddersal), with reliefs by Bissen, representing Scandinavian and Greek mythological scenes. In the ante-chamber of the Knights' Hall was a representation of Thorvald- sen's " Triumph of Alexander the Great entering Babylon." Plaster copies are in his museum. Now let us go through the east entrance, near the Ministerial Buildings, till we come to the Toihus- gade to the left. Here stands the ARMOURY (Toihuset) Of the land army, which is partly situated in the ground-floor of that large and long building, near the palace of Christiansborg, contiguous to Proviantgaar- den (the magazine for provisions), and partly in the great building that encloses Toihusgaden, on the opposite side of Proviantgaarden. The Arsenal, originally established 1604, stands under the survey of the artillery, and contains arms for the greater part of the army. The weapons are here arranged in the most beautiful manner in a hall three hundred ells in length (about 210 yards). FIFTH B AMBLE. 107 "From floor to ceiling, Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms. But from their silent pipes no anthem pealiug. Oh ! what a sound will rise, how wild and drear}-, When the death-angel touches those keys ! " FraiDed in glass is a handsome sword that was given to Landgreve Carl, of Hessen Cassel, about 1760, and placed here 1837. Here are also to be found the two Saxon cannons of metal that were taken at Dyppel, the 13th April 1849, together with other trophies taken in the former Sleswig war. The Arsenal is open to the public from the 1st of May till the 1st of October, every Wednesday, from 1 to 3 o'clock. The Royal Library. Entrance from Tojhusgade. The library was founded by Christian III. in the middle of the 16th century. It belongs to the richest libraries in Europe, containing 550,000 volumes and more than 200,000 manuscripts. Open daily. Now we turn back to the Palace Place (Slots- plads), and pass the equestrian statue of Frederik YIL, and walk on till we come to the PALACE CHURCH (slotskirken). It is connected with Christiansborg, built in a plain but handsome style, with a dome. To the amateur it exhibits curiosities in several works by Bissen and Freund, which of late have been augmented with statues of the Evangelists, modelled by Conradsen, Peters, and Stein. 108 FIFTH RAMBLE. THORVALDSEN'S MUSEUM. // ''Munificence, fame, so great, so rare, Enduring marble should alone declare ; And yet, what n&arble or what fluent pen Could mark his place amongst our greatest men ? " The Museum stands close to the Palace of Christians- borg, and the imposing character of that building has quite spoilt the artistic effect of this temple of art ; or, perhaps, it is too much in the style of Pompeii for a modern town, though the decorations are very inferior to those of Pompeii, especially the outer Etrucian paintings representing the. arrival of Thorvaldsen with his works from Italy, after an absence of more than eighteen years. Built by the architect Bindeoboll, between 1839-1848. With great difficulty the Museum was saved from the flames when the unfortunate palace was burnt in 1884; the populace, however, prevented its destruction by keeping it covered with carpets and sails taken wet from the Holmens Canal ; otherwise the loss — not only to Denmark but to Europe — must have been irreparable, for many do not hesitate to place Thorvaldsen above Canova, and compare him with the antique. That he understood art as few have done is seen in his modelling and grouping ; indeed, in the whole spirit of his works. When I look at the figure portraying him as resting on "Hope," I cannot help picturing the delight he must have felt at seeing his ideas growing into shape out of the cold, hard rocks under the blows of his chisel. It does not become me, however, to talk of the great FIFTH RAMBLE, 109 rrF^'> Corridor. t^ ^ H >^ r Usual Entrance. n ^- 1 . 1 X X X :: X I I > > X X I I X X X .1^ CO Q _ Corridor. M s § c 2 1 1 ^ c8 1 1 1 > O cj o I I -3 X Corridor. X><'^'r^>>^S-^ I I I ^_L I . no FIFTH RAMBLE, creations of Thorvaldsen, for his genius has set him, like Phidias of old, on a pinnacle above criticism. The Museum is unique of its kind, for it contains not only the works but the Grave of the great sculptor. In the inner court, open to the skies, overrun with that bonnie, dainty plant, the ivy green, rests the mortal remains of Bertel Thorvaldsen. The granite frame has the date of his birth and death — 19th of November 1770, and 24th of March 1844. This wonderful man began life by assisting his father, a poor wood-carver in Iceland, and in his eleventh year first attended the free school of the Academy of Arts in Copenhagen. Then he went to Italy, with nothing but his genius to carve his way to fortune. Shake- speare says, ^*Some men are born great, some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust upon them." Thorvaldsen will rank amongst the few distinguished men who have achieved greatness. He became known to the world quite through chance. After having worked for some time unrecognised in Rome {for Rome still lives to conjure the world with her imperishable name), he had determined (doubtless in disgust) on returning to Denmark, and laying down for ever the sculptor's chisel, when a chance error in the drawing up of his passport detained him twenty- four hours. During this interval of waiting came Thomas Hope to the studio, admired his " Jason " in clay, and aroused the desponding Dane's hope by ordering a copy in marble, for which he gave 800 ducats (about £350). Thus the golden genius of Thorvaldsen was brought out through chance, and to Denmark was given a king in sculpture, of whom she is justly FIFTH RAMBLE, HI proud. His fame, however, belongs less to Denmark than to Rome, where he spent nearly all his life, and where his hand was trained and his sense of beauty developed. With galleries and vestibules, there are forty-two rooms in the Museum. To each figure contained there is given the required space, and an harmonious arrangement, so necessary to the full enjoyment of the feelings inspired by the plastic art ; for sculpture, in its stillness and solemnity, breathes of another world, and essentially requires a fitting accompaniment of tranquillity ; otherwise the general effect is impaired. In the Cellar are placed juvenile works by Thor- valdsen, some marble statues by other modern artists, plaster casts of antique sculptures, etc. The Ground Floor contains exclusively Thorvald- sen's works. The numbers of the rooms are placed under the window. ' The front entrance to the Museum is surmounted by a figure of Victory on a quadriga, by Bissen after Thorvaldsen. But we must enter by a small side door opposite the unfortunate palace (the usual entrance). THORYALDSEN'S WORKS. FIRST PLOOR (fORSTE ETAGE). ENTRANCE HALL (fORHAL), "^-^113. — Statue, Nicolaus Copernicus (model for the bronze at Warsaw). His real name was Copernik ; — born at Thorn, in Prussia, he became doctor of medicine, besides giving much time to mathematics ; and seems to have passed his days in the threefold J 112 FIFTH RAMBLE. occupations of ecclesiastical duties, gratuitous medical practice amongst the poor, and astronomical re- searches. He died 1543, just as a complete copy of his works was being published. As Gysius wrote to Rheticus, '* Copernicus saw it, touched it, but was too near his end to do more." 114-116. — Guttenberg (model for the bronze monu- ment at Mayence). Thorvaldsen did the modelling, but it was cast in bronze at Paris. The cost of the monument amounted to about two thousand pounds, and was erected 1837. His real name was Johannes Gensfleisch. Like many other great inventors, he met with much ingratitude, and was hunted into exile by the guild of writers, the priests, and his partners, Faust and Schoffer. A Psalter issued by the firm in 1457 and 1459 is still in existence, and the value of the work is now estimated at £5,250. 123. — Prince Joseph Poniatowski — the hope and pride of Poland (model intended for a bronze one at Warsaw, where he was born in 1763). He was nephew of Stanislaus Augustus, last King of Poland, and made a Marshal of France by Napoleon, just before the battle of Leipzig. A few days later, 18th October, being pressed by the enemy upon the bank of the Elster, which was swollen by the rains, he spurred his horse into the river and was drowned. \ 128. — Maximilian L, Elector of Bavaria (model of the bronze monument at Munich). " N 135^ — Schiller (model for the bronze monument at Stuttgart). Schiller's writings, transplanted to our FIFTH RAMBLE, 113 own soil, are a conquest by which our literature, rich as it is, has been enriched still further. The story of the death of Gustavus Adolphus has been often told, but no one has surpassed Schiller's masterly descrip- tion. Had Motley lived to write the history of the Thirty Yeari War the American might have fol- lowed closely on the heels of the German historian ; but as it is, Schiller is without a rival in recording that historical event. "William Tell,'' is one of his finest dramas, and his last work. He was born November 10th, 1759, at Marbach, on the Neckar j died at Weimar, 9th May, 1805. 142-145.— Pope Pius the VII. (model for the marble monument in St. Peter's, Rome). To the right. Heavenly Wisdom ; to the left, Divine Strength ; on the pedestal, the Pope's arms are held by two angels. It was he who crowned Napoleon at Paris, and was afterwards confined at Fontainebleau by the ungrateful monarch. But Napoleon found an unarmed priest more diflicult to conquer than nations. Pius died at the advanced age of eighty- one, August 20th, 1823. \i 156. — Eugene, Duke of Leuchtenberg (in marble at Munich, on the duke's tomb). He was Eugene Beauharnais, whose mother married Buonaparte, March 1796. Eugene's eldest daughter, Josephine- Maximilienne, married, in 1823, Oscar Bernadotte, Crown Prince of Sweden. 503. — Relief, Triumphal Procession of Alexander the Great. Ranks amongst Thorvaldsen's principal 114 FIFTH RAMBLE. works. It was ordered by Napoleon I. for the Palzzo E>egio at Rome ; represented now by a cast, as the original became in 1815 the property of the Marchese Sommariva, and is now in the Villa Garlotta, near Cadenabbia, on the Lake of Como, formerly his residence. ^ Corridor. 52. — Jason with the Golden Fleece (the master's first great work, which became the founder of its author's fortune). . The title, " Golden Fleece suggests to the mind the classical account of the Argonauts — the fifty heroes who sailed to Colcis in the ship Argo, commanded by Jason, in order to bring it from thence. The Golden Fleece was a ram's hide that possessed, so the story goes, chameleon-like properties, for it was sometimes white in colour, then purple, and at other times it assumed a golden appearance. Be that as it may, this unique hide was hung up in the Grove of Mars, and the heroic Argonauts, after inconceivable difficulties, succeeded in bringing it back again in triumph. N 119. — Lion dying over the royal shield of France (model for a monument at Lucerne). Erected to the memory of the Swiss Guards, who fell in defending thf^ Royal Family of France, Louis the XVI., his wife and children, in the great French Revolution of 1792. It was drawn and designed by Thorvaldsen, and represents a wounded lion, fallen, with a spear fixed in his side, the shaft presenting a broken frag- ment only ; his head drooping between his legs, and FIFTH EA MBL E, 115 one paw stretched out to cover and protect, if possible, a shield, on which are the fleurs-de-lis of the old royal arms of France. Nothing could be more simple or expressive of the sentiment intended to be conveyed ; no other allegory is necessary, for marble under the hand of Thorvaldsen, who is, as it were, a Homer of the art of sculpture, speaks for itself. \j 162. — Thorvaldsen in his seventieth year, in work- ing dress, tool in hand, leaning on the statue of ** Hope." This I like immensely myself. vA 255. — Bust of Sir Walter Scott, our Border poet, and amongst the foremost of our British novelists. Who surpasess Sir Walter Scott ? 491. — Kelief, Briseis led away from Achilles by the heralds of Agamemnon. Though a minor group, it is wonderfully effective. Note the impassable faces of the aged envoys, the longing, lingering look of the beautiful girl as she is dragged away, and the re- pressed fury which betrays itself in every limb of the terrible hero, straining his sword-hilt till the belt stands out like a bowstring, with a vividness and fidelity to life which might have satisfied even Homer. *'King of men" is the epithet constantly added to the name of Agamemnon, the legends of whose house have formed so many subjects to the Greek tragedians. 612. — Cardinal Consalvi bringing back to Pius VII. the Papal Provinces. In the Pantheon, Rome, on his sarcophagus. (Buried in S. Marcello.) 116 FIFTH RAMBLE, SEPULCHRAL RELIEF. 613.— Tobias Healing his Blind Father. (On the tomb of the oculist Yacca Berlinghiere, in the Campo Santo at Pisa.) CHRISTUS HALL. \y 82.— Statue, Christ. 86-103. —Statues: The Apostles. 86. — Peter. 87. — Matthew. 89. — John. 91.— His brother James 93.— Philip. 94.— Judas Thaddeus. 95.— Andrew. 96. — Thomas. 98. — James the Less. 99. — Bar- tholomew. 101. — Simon Zelotes. 103. — Paul. 112. — Angel of Baptism. (These figures, except 94 and 95, are the models for the marble statues in Our Lady's Church.) The originals were a gift from Thorvaldsen to the Church of Our Lady, 1838 ; and a right royal gift, too, for in all Copenhagen there is nothing finer than this famous collection. Scotland possesses a very good copy of the font in St. Andrew's Cathedral, Inverness, by the late Mr. Redfern, of London. 559.— Relief. Frieze, Entry of Christ into Jerusalem. 560. — Relief. Frieze, Christ on his way to Golgotha. (These are sketches for the friezes decorating Our Lady's Church.) 564. — Relief, Christ entrusting the Apostle Peter with the administration of the Church. (In marble in the chapel of the Pitti Palace, Florence.) FIFTH RAMBLE, 117 569. — Relief, Annunciation of the Virgin. 570. — Relief, Christ, new-born, adored by the shepherds. 572. — Relief, Christ, twelve years old, teaching in the Temple. 573. — Relief, Christ baptised by St. John. 596.— Relief, Child's Guardian Angel. 597.— Relief, Christian Charity. (These last two reliefs are found in marble in our Lady's Church above the school-box and the poor-box. ) ROOM I. ^ 40. — Statue, Ganymede presenting the filled cup. He was accounted by the ancient Greeks the most beautiful of men, and is said to have been carried off to heaven by the order of Zeus, from Mount Ida, and borne away by an eagle, that he might act as cup- bearer to the Gods. ROOM II. \j 27. — Group, Amor and Psyche re-united in heaven. ROOM III. Ni 29. — Group, the Graces and Amor, the three goddesses among the ancient Greeks and Romans who were thought to be personifications of grace and beauty. According to Hesiod, their names were Euphrosyne, Aglaia, and Thalia. 118 FIFTH RAMBLE, ROOM IV. V 11. — Statue, Venus with the apple, the prize of beauty awarded to her by Paris. Paris was the son of Priam, King of Troy. He carried off Helena from Sparta during the absence of her husband Menelaus, and took her to Troy, which caused the Trojan war. ROOM V. ^ 51. — Statue, Jason with the Golden Fleece. Note the grand commanding beauty, an unmistakable impress of the great sculptor^s genius. ROOM VI. 38. — Statue, Hebe, the female attendant and cup- bearer of the gods. She was worshipped at Athens under the name of Hebe, and at Rome under the corresponding Latin name of Juventas, both names signifying youth. 323. — Relief, Minerva and Prometheus. Minerva, identified with the Greek Athene, is the goddess of war ; while Prometheus is said to have taken fire from heaven for the good of man, and was therefore condemned to everlasting torture, being chained to a rock, where his liver, renewed each night, was torn and devoured each succeeding day by a vulture. . ROOM VII. '^ 6. — Group, Mars and Amor (from the Forty-fifth Song of Anacreon). 502. — Relief, Homer, the father of the bardic FIFTH RAMBLE, 119 tribe, singing to the people, he was often in poverty. That memorable couplet, which contrasts his fame with his circumstances, tells the story of his career so succinctly that no apology can be necessary for its reproduction : — " Seven cities now contend for Homer dead, Through which the living Homer begged his bread." ROOxM VIII. 46. — Statue, The Goddess of Hope, with a flower in her hand (from the ancient Greek model). ROOM IX. 8. — Statue, Vulcanus, or Vulcan (note the stern repose). According to Homer, he was the son of Zeus (Jupiter) and Hera (Juno), and from his birth was so weakly and ugly that his mother, wishing to get rid of him, dropped him from Olympus ; but Thetis and Eurynome, two marine divinities, received him in his fall, with whom he dwelt some time before returning to Olympus. In the ancient Greek mythology he is the god of fire, and named Heph ^stus. ^^ 237. — Bust, Wilhelm von Humboldt, the minister who, during forty years, enjoyed the reputation of being one of the greatest linguists of Europe. He died April 8th, 1835. The greater part of his works were afterwards collected by his brother, and pub- lished under the title, "Wilhelm von Humboldt's Gesammelte Werke," Berlin, 1841. 120 FIFTH E AMBLE. ROOM X. 4. — Statue, Mercury on the point of killing Argus. This is thought to be one of the best specimens of the talents of the sculptor. The god has just lulled Argus to sleep, and is unsheathing the falchion with which to slay him. The attitude is highly graceful ; as for the head, it is perfectly beautiful, and presents much of the character of ancient sculpture. \ 352. — Relief, Pan teaching a little Satyr to play lipon a pipe of reeds. In heathen mythology Pan is called the god of the woods; in Greek, a deity whose country was Arcadia. He was supposed to be a great protector of flocks, so that shepherds made him their god. The syrinx is a musical pipe he is said to have invented. ROOM XI. 166. — Statue, Countess Ostermann. ROOM XII. V 124. — Statue, Prince Joseph Poniatowski (first model for the colossal statue in the Entrance Hall). ROOM XIII. V : 121. — Statue, Lion couching. 131. — Relief, Genius of Poetry (belonging to the monument of Byron), intended for Westminster Abbey, but refused a place by Dr. Ireland (the then Dean), though, doubtless, the bones of scores of as morally bad and less intellectual men rest under its FIFTH RAMBLE, 121 roof. So this memorial of one of our first writers was allowed to remain for twelve years amongst a miscel- laneous heap of rubbish in the cellar of the Custom House. Then, in 1846, it was removed to the library of Trinity College, Cambridge, which it now adorns. '* Spare him> ye critics, his follies are past ! " ROOM XIV. 44. — Statue, Gany modes (cup-bearer to the gods), with the eagle of Jupiter. Ganymedes surpassed all the gods in beauty. ROOM XV. 155. — Statue, Prince Potocki (in marble over his tomb at Cracow). ROOM XVI. 22. — Statue, Amor, the god of love and harmony amongst the ancient Romans, triumphantly examin- ing the point of his arrow, ROOM XVII. 53. — Statue, Adonis. In the mythology of the Greeks he was a beautiful young shepherd, of whom the goddss Yenus became enamoured. Mars, in a fit of jealousy, chancing to meet him whilst hunting, killed him. ROOM XVIII. > 31. — Group, The Graces, same as Room III. 122 FIFTH RAMBLE. ROOM XIX. 176.— Statue, Shepherd Boy. ROOM XX. 162. — Statue, Thorvaldsen, same as Room VIII. ROOM XXI. ^"^ 152. — Statue, King Christian lY. (in bronze before the Palace of Rosenborg, Copenhagen). He was elected king at the age of eleven, when his father died, and is said to have been the most gifted of his race. He was trained under a regency of councillors of state, and showed a marked predilection for mechanical and maritime pursuits. He has en- riched Copenhagen with numerous fine buildings, and gave the design for various ships, including the Trinity, which he commanded when he came to London to visit his sister Anne, who had married James I. UPPER FLOOR — STAIRCASE. 14. — Statue, Hercules. (Model for one of the four bronze statues at the portal of the Palace of Christiansborg.) 308. — Bust, unknown portrait. 398. — Relief, Amor knitting a net for catching souls. 399. — Relief, Amor caressing the faithful dog. 450. — Relief, Amor and Psyche. 452. — Relief, Amor and Hymen. FIFTH RAMBLE. 123 456. — Relief, Amor flying away. 520. — Relief, Genius of Painting. 521. — Relief, Genius of Architecture. 522-23.— Relief, Genius of Sculpture. 527. — Relief, Genius of Poetry. CORRIDOR. 2. — Statue, Bacchus. 3. — Statue, Apollo. 190. — Bust, Ludvig Holberg, the Danish author. ROOM XXII. 194. — Bust, Vilhelmine Marie, Danish princess. ;; ROOM XXIII. 1. — Group, Bacchus and Ariadne. ^ 79. — Fioroni, Pope Pius VIII., carried in pro- cession through the colonnade of S. Peter's. He was elected in March 1829 to succeed Leo XII., and died at the close of the following year. ROOM XXIV. • / 122. — Hopfgarten. The well-known legend about S. Elizabeth of Thuringia's ** Transformation of the Bread into Roses," so as to avoid her husband's displeasure. The historian has forgotten to relate if she had power to transform them into bread again. 126 FIFTH RAMBLE, please the multitude. The English nation are said to spend Sunday afternoon in eating and sleeping, whilst the smaller fry read the Bible, or the true story of some wonderful conversion, and that we sacrifice our lives to fuss, form, and outside things ; truly so, if we believe Bismarck's account of his first visit to England — how, on landing at Hull, he was reproved by a fellow-passenger for whistling, " because it was Sunday." This so disgusted Bismarck that he imme- diately set sail for Bonnie Scotland. Times are changed with us since then, and the dear old Puritan Sabbath is, alas ! doomed. Open daily from 11 a.m. for a few hours; often gratis, sometimes on payment of 50 ore (see newspapers). An English catalogue, at greater length than I have space for, can be had at the entrance, price 45 ore ; but the Danish and French are more complete. SIXTH RAMBLE. We leave the King's Newmarket and turn into the Ostergade, unless the traveller would like to tram by Holmens Canal to the Vesterbrogade, where the Extlibition Buildings are. Part of this building was erected in 1873, and is constructed in a grand and imposing style. EXHIBITION jl^- (udstillingen). Opposite the Exhibition Buildings is the Cafe National. This beautiful cafe is built in Italian Renaissance style, ornamented with towers and terraces. Concerts and representations are given here. Entrance, 50 ore. TIYOLI, Situated at the front part of Vesterbrogade, and just past the Exhibition Buildings. This lovely summer garden, or modern' Arcadia, is open to the public on the small payment of 50 ore, unless something unusual is going on ; then there is a trifling increase. Programme, 10 ore. Money changed in the changing-office " Byttekontor," before the entrance. The garden is open all day, but the amusements do not commence till about six. It 128 SIXTH RAMBLE, is owned by a joint-stock company, and was opened in 1843. Near the entrance gate is a Theatre, with a curtain resembling a gigantic peacock's plumage, that unfolds and closes several times during the evening for a per- formance in which figures conspicuously the well- known " Man in White " (Pierrot), who is always much applauded. The large Concert Hall, formed chiefly of glass, was erected 1863. It is very prettily situated on a sheltered piece of ground, shut in with trees. The music here always attracts a large crowd of listeners, for there are seldom less than forty performers in the band. There are many other concert halls, but this is certainly the best, and some of the others might very well be dispensed with. A fine model of an old Danish man-of-war was added to the beautiful lake, with its pleasure boats, 1887. The " Switch-Back Railway '' (Rutschbane), after a run of twenty years, has given way to its rival, ** Topsy-Turvey," which causes much amusement. Note that benevolent-looking old gentleman, who might be Mr. Pickwick himself, with such zest and freshness does he enter into the fun ! Watch him take his seat, settle his spectacles, crush his hat down, and gravely start off with all the ardour and earnestness of youth. A ride on the ** Topsy-Turvey " {cost 25 ore), is decidedly novel, if not comfortable, much more so indeed than a ride on the " Switch- back Railway." The shuggy-shows and merry-go- rounds are also well patronised. The Circus is SIXTH RAMBLE. 129 first-class, so also is the gymnastic performance. The shrubbery is laid out as a labyrinth, and looks lovely when illuminated ; but it is " A place for lovers, and lovers only." There are several dining-rooms, but dinner is best served in the building, within the elegantly-constructed bazaar. There are also numerous refreshment-places to suit the various pockets. The ice creams I find delicious, only they leave me, like Oliver Twist, ** wishing for more ! '' On a fete-night there are fire-works; then the splendid avenues and lanes of trees are all lighted up, till the whole resembles a fairy scene by torch-light ; and, doubtless, Tivoli will be found to have scarcely its equal in Europe, not only for the cheapness of the amusements, but for the remarkably good behaviour of the people, which is due to the culture of the working-classes. Entrance, 50 ore. DANISH PEOPLE^S MUSEUM (dansk folke-museum), 3 Vesterbrogade, near the Emancipation Column and the Railway Station, founded some years ago by Mr. Bernhardt Olsen (director of the Tivoli Gardens), and the late Chamberlain, Mr. Worsaae. It is in a somewhat similar style to the Museum shown in the Trocadero Palace during the Paris Exhibition of 1878, which was under the manage- ment of the Swede, Dr. Harzelius, and was meant to 9 130 SIXTH EAMBLE. show the interior fittings of the peasants' dwellings in Lapland and Sweden. According to Dr. Harzelius, the fourth wall of each room was taken away, in order that the spectators might look within ; but in the Danish People's Museum the different rooms are complete, so that the visitor, instead of looking in, now enters the room. That this arrangement proved a great success was shown by the amount of attention it received from visitors when it was first on trial at the last Copenhagen Industrial Exhibition. This Museum was originally founded by private collections and subscriptions, but the Government, later on, added an annual monetary support. It consists partly of various rooms from Iceland, Jut- land, and Amager; and here may be seen some interesting specimens of the dwellings of the once Dutch (now called Amager) peasant life. There are also rooms from the once Danish province Skaane, now belonging to Sweden ; and what makes it still more interesting is, that in most cases the furniture is really taken from dwellings in the provinces they are intended to represent, and go far to show the manners and customs of a race in whom long ages of culture have fostered a national pride and self-respect, far surpassing our own people in the same grade of life. This, the Danish People's Museum, is to the left of the chief entrance on the first floor, open from 11 to 6 p.m. Entrance, 60 ore. SCANDINAVIAN PANOPTIKON. In the same building as the Danish People's Museum. It is in much the same style as Madame SIXTH RAMBLE, 131 Tussaud's Exhibition of Wax-works in London, and so thoroughly well set off and placed that a stranger cannot help thinking it has always stood in the same spot, instead of being quite a recent addition to a town already well stocked with museums. On the 1st of May 1885 Mr. Rimb opened his valuable collection, and at the same time, Mr. Jacobsen his cool underground halls for refreshment. Entering from the street, you ascend a few wide steps and come vis-d-vis with a footman, who looks at you as though he wanted your ticket. His smiles are bestowed on all, but he does not move, for, alas ! poor fellow ! he is one of the show-figures of the place. After passing him, the Marble Hall, the pride of the Panoptikon, is entered. It is not of marble, how- ever, as you might imagine from the shining white pillars, but of rococco, and more in the style of a gallery than a hall. The figures are arranged in niches in the wall, instead of round the room, like those at Madame Tussaud's. Here is old "Grundtvig, sitting in his lonely cell.'^ He was both poet and theologian, entertaining peculiar opinions on several points of doctrine. For instance: he thought the Bible a useful, and even necessary book, for the clergy, but dangerous in the hands of the laymen. He has many disciples in Norway and Denmark. This veteran enthusiast was the editor of a paper in Copenhagen, in which he advocated his opinions, and officiated as preacher in an ** Hospital for Old Women 1 " Charles XII., of Sweden, lying, pale, with bleeding head, in the dark hole in front of the Norwegian 132 SIXTH RAMBLE, fortress Frederikshald, where he ended his restless life by a cannon-ball, December 11th, 1718. As the song says : — "He could not retreat, He could but fall." ** I wonder did rival monarchs give the fatal wound ? Or hostile millions press him to the ground ? " Near is his last successor on the Swedish throne, looking much happier with his family. The Queen Sophia is represented as gazing at a statue that the sculptor Fahlstedt, who modelled the group, is in the act of presenting to her. The Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden is modelling a bust of her husband, who sits before her in uniform. Do you know the song about Denmark's sailor- hero, Niels Juel % " His hair it was so white." Here you see him, with his white plait hanging down his back, attired in his blue uniform. He is on the point of going to see some more of Denmark's heroes, — Vessel, Rud, and the one-eyed Christian IV., who has, however, in some mysterious way, regained both eyes. As Christian lost one eye at the battle of Kolbergerheide, in 1644, when fighting against the Swedes, the figure in question is probably intended to represent him before that battle, and has, there- fore, both eyes. Of them all, only Tordenksjold seems to know the old man with the snow-white hair. Now cross the room and see Hovgaard, the North Pole explorer, sitting in a sleigh drawn by dogs. He has no gloves on, though it must be cold enough. He points to the North-East Passage, and \ SIXTH RAMBLE, 133 Palander stands leaning against his gun, ready to obey, but jSTordenskiold looks faint-hearted. This reminds me of another illustrious navigator — John Hatteras — who, poor man, sacrificing himself to the progress of science, left the North Pole and his reason together. What a sad return journey his companions must have had ! Now, look back many years, and imagine King Christian II. bending in wild grief over the lifeless form of his mistress, " Dy veke, the Dove." He is feeling her white hand to see if the pulse has really stopped, and trying to hear her breathing ; but his little dove is lying still. This ill-fated maiden died early, before any of the heavy troubles had befallen her royal lover. She was first^ seen by Christian at a public entertainment given by the citizens of Bergen to welcome his land- ing in Norway, whither he had been sent by his father, King Hans, in 1501. "He paid the piper,'' as an old historian remarks, in allusion to the meeting of Christian with " Dyveke, the Dove." Surely no prince ever paid so dearly for a dance as King Christian of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden; since the one dance with the Dutch Dove cost him his three crowns, and danced him out of his kingdoms into a dungeon. ** Experience is a dear school, but fools will learn in no other ! " His wife was Elizabeth, sister of the Emperor Charles V. The Moorish Hall is golden and airy, and its pillars and galleries are garlanded in Arabic embroidery of blue and gold. The subdued light, falling through the 134 SIXTH RAMBLE. high mellow-coloured windows, makes one fancy- one's self out on a moonlight night. Here you behold the Enchanted Palace, where all are in their long, long sleep. Next comes the actors' region, where you might fancy yourself in the corridor of the Theatre Royal. Look ! there is Lange walking with Mrs. Tychsen ; and — do my eyes deceive me ? there are Simonsen and Mrs. Liitken, walking too. Mind you do not run over Drachmann ! Then, guess who that fellow is, putting his head into Sara Bernhardt's study ? Well : it is Olaf ! The Panoptikon has its entrance in the chief porch, and occupies the cellar, also the first and second floor. One of its greatest advantages, in comparison with museums in other countries, is, that it has no Chamber of Horrors. The building is open daily from 11 A. M. till 10 P.M. Entrance — 1 kr. ; children, 50 ore. A few minutes walking along the Vesterbrogade brings us to the LIBERTY MONUMENT (frihedsstotten). This column was built by voluntary contributions in 1797, in commemoration of the emancipation of the peasantry by Frederick VI. ; though this happy event seems to have been brought about chiefly through Bernstorff freeing all peasants born on his own land. The obelisk, which rests upon a pedestal of Norwegian marble, has, with this latter, a height of forty-eight feet, SIXTU RAMBLE, 135 and is provided with beautiful inscriptions answering to the occasion. On the eastern and western side of the pedestal are bas-reliefs representing the Emanci- pation of a Peasant from Villenage, and the Goddess of Justice; its four corners are adorned with tall marble figures, executed by Wiedewelt, and emblem- atically representing Fidelity, Patriotism, Agriculture, and Valour. We turn to the left, and have facing us the RAILWAY STATION, In use since October 14th, 1864; built by Mr. Herholdt. The next thing to note is the PANORAMA (jernbanegade), Near the Dagmar Theatre, open from 9 a.m. till sunset. Entrance, 1 kr. per person. DAGMAR THEATRE, In the same street, Jernbanegade, also Dagmar Hotel, with elegant Restaurant and Cafd On the fagade of the theatre are two statues of the poets, Heiberg and Hertz, after the models of the sculptor Carl Smith (pupil of Professor Albert Wolff, of Berlin). In the underground of the Dagmar Theatre is the Dagmar Tunnel, where concerts are held in the evenings. Entrance, 50 ore. To those who visit the theatre it is free. 136 SIXTH RAMBLE, THE CIRCUS (CIRKUS). That a town like Copenhagen should have a per- manent building for a circus had^long been the wish of the public, and this wish is now gratified, as the new building was opened May 1886 by|Renz with his famous troop ; he is also a director. The circus has ample space for at least 3500 spectators, and separate stabling for 150 horses. Both exterior and interior are elaborately decorated. The architect was Mr. Brinckopffs, a Dane. The principal entrances are from the corner of Jernbanegade and Farimagsgade. Admission — Balcony, 2 kr. ; boxes, 3 kr. ; other seats, from 1.50 down to 50 ore. Let us now return to the Liberty Column, and take a tram or hire a carriage to the end of Frederiksberg Alley or Avenue. On the road we pass the Variety Theatre, and next, on the same side, the Royal Shooting Club (Kongl-Skydebane), constructed after a drawing of the Professor, Mr. Hetsch. The Royal Danish Shooting Society, or Danish Brotherhood, enjoys a high reputation. It derives its origin from the middle ages, when the guilds were first introduced in the Scandinavian realms, and it was the called "The Guild of the Holy Trinity;" later it became a Shooting Society, whose members amuse themselves by shooting at a target or parrot. The annual royal shooting at the bird takes place in the month of June or July, on a green SIXTH RAMBLE. 137 meadow, and almost always in the presence of the king and royal family. On the same side, after a short distance we eome to S. MATTHEW'S CHURCH (matthaus kirkb), Situated in the Valdemarsgade. The altar is especially worth noticing, and the effective picture behind it, representing " Christ's Sermon on the Mount," painted by Olrik. Close by is the Frederiksberg Avenue, or Allee, leading to the Palace. There are many handsome houses about here, and several tea-gardens. The most noticeable of these beautiful pleasure establish- ments are AUeenberg and Sommerlyst. These two stand highest in public favour, having theatres and many other amusements. Sunday^ in summer time, is the day, if you want to see Copenhagen making holiday. Near the tea-gardens, at the far end of the Allee, is the chief entrance to FREDERIKSBERG GARDENS, Where is the regular halting-place for cabs and trams. Note a monumental statue of Frederik YI., who was the last king to live here. The statue was. erected by Bissen, and unveiled September 1st, 1858. The Park itself, is a master-piece of modern gardening, and the great charm of Frederiksberg. It was originally laid out in the stiff French style^ with terraces and cut hedges ; but at the beginning of the Nineteenth century it was quite altered and 138 SIXTH RAMBLE. transformed into an English park. Now, its fine old trees and fresh green-sward, dressed in their vernal garments of living green, woven by the great Master Worker, provides the citizen with a most delightful summer lounging-place. FREDERIKSBERG PALAOE Stands on an elevation, from whence we have, lying before us, a panorama of j Copenhagen and its sur- roundings. The Palace itself was erected by Frederik IV. in the modern Italian style, as a summer residence for his court. It is void of all grandeur, except in the beautiful prospect it commands over the country, and is now used as a school for educating officers for the army. In Denmark it is a law that every young man, on reaching the age of twenty-two, shall present himself for conscription. The general appearance of the army is not very creditable to the system, though, in the past, they have shown how nobly they could fight against hopeless odds. Compulsory service will, I think, be by no means a discouraging one for the upholder of the doctrines of the Peace Society ! It is the paid professional who loves war — as it brings him a chance of promotion and honour. The conscript also, may like these glittering baits, but he loves better the prospect of returning to his ordinary work ; nor will he clamour for war, when he knows such a proposal may mean a dose of lead imbedded in his own sacred person. We leave the Gardens by the side of the Palace, and a few steps to the right bring us to SIXTH RAMBLE. 139 THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. These were once called the Gardens of the Princess. After passing through various hands, they came into those of a joint- stock company, who put them to their present use, and have arranged all so nicely — providing the animals with commodious houses and cages. The dogs are especially deserving of notice, and many of them are for sale at moderate prices. The Gardens have increased immensely within the last few years, so that they can now almost bear com- parison with similar establishments in the greater cities of Europe — such as those of Hamburg and London. The Gardens are open all day through the summer months. Admission — Adults, 40 ore ; children, 20 ore. Now let us ask the band-master to strike up ** Rule Britannia," whilst we partake of some light refresh- ment. Then we leave the Gardens and descend the little hill close by, and soon see, to the right, RAHBECK'S ALLEE, Where stands a Lunatic Asylum ; but we have no time to-day to go over lunatic asylums, so we just take notice of a group over the porch, representing "Mother's Love," executed after the model of Professor Th. Stein, A small monument in the Avenue was erected in memory of the learned Rahbeck, after whom the Avenue is named. 140 SIXTH RAMBLE. Behind the Lunatic Asylum, on an incline, stands the large Carlsberg Brewery, property of the late rich Captain Jakobsen. His son has a museum arranged near his estate, New Carlsberg, which is close by, for the exhibition of sculpture. The works of art are chiefly by Danish and French masters, though the ancient ones are represented as well. Open every Sunday from 1 till 5 p.m. Admission, 50 ore, which goes towards the Poor Fund of the village situated near it. Mr. Carl Jakobsen, a son of Captain Jakobsen, the brewer, has arranged an exhibition of French sculpture to be open at the time of the International Exhibition this year. We will now retrace our steps to the chief entrance to Frederiksberg Gardens, and tram from there to Tivoli, dine in the principal restaurant, and spend an enjoyable evening in this sylvan retreat. it i '4( ]■■ 'II '.h Rj » ^ ADDENDA. ASSISTANCE OHURCHYARD (OR RELIEF CHURCHYARD) (assistentskirkegaarden). ** Peace has her victories, No less renowned than war." — Milton. This, the principal burial-ground for civilians of eminence, is not much visited by ordinary tourists, as it lies rather apart from the other show-places of the town. Note Queen Louisa's Bridge — we pass it on the road — opened last year (1887), in honour of the Queen's birthday, The suburb Norrebro communicates with the city through the three streets — Gothersgade, Frederiks- borggade, and Norregade. Norrebrogade leads be- tween the two lakes, Peblingeso and Sortedamso, with their environs of walks and portly buildings, to the great churchyard of the city. Here is the grave of Hans Christian Andersen, the children's fairy-tale writer, and we must not leave without placing thereon a tribute to his memory. He rests amongst a crowd of well-known com- patriots, such men as Rasmus Rask, the philologer; H. 0. Orsted, the discoverer of electro-magnetism ; 142 ADDENDA. J. S. Forchhammer, the mineralogist ; S. Eschricht^ the physiologist; the sculptors, Wiedewelt and Bissen ; the architect, H. Ohr. Hansen ; the com- poser, Glaser — all of whom have, like Andersen, gone over to join the great majority, from whence none return. •* 'Tis done, and thou hast joined a crew To whom thy soul was justly due ; And yet, I think, where'er thou be, They'll hardly love thee more than we ! " Now we have seen all worth noting, for there is no crematory furnace, as in Milan Cemetery, where, for the modest sum of £4, 8s., you can be burnt, and your ashes boxed-up in a marble pigeon-hole. THE CHURCH OF S. STEPHEN, Some distance further in Norrebro than the church- yard, principally destined for the poor inhabitants in the surrounding parts, and has been erected by voluntary contributions on a piece of ground given by the late Baron Lovenskjold. Constructed in Gothic style, its interior is plain, but agreeable, and it has a beautiful altar-piece. Inaugurated December 26, 1874. MARKETS. The markets are held in various squares of the town, as in Norway and Sweden. The produce is good — indeed nearly the same as you will find in any central European market; but the oflPhand way of ADDENDA, 143 selling, to my thinking, somewhat impairs the general effect of the whole. Nybrogade leads along the channel to Gailimel- Strand, the Fish market, and to Hojbroplads, the market-place for vegetables. To the south-east of Copenhagen lies the island of Amager, which has continued to fulfil the part of kitchen garden to the capital since its first occupation, in 1516, by a colony of Flemings, who had been brought to Denmark by Christian II. for the express purpose of teaching his subjects how to cultivate vegetables and flowers. THE ENVIRONS. * * The achievements of art may amuse, May even our wonder excite ; But a day in the forests diffuse An enchanting, everlasting delight." CHAELOTTENLUND, DYREHAVEN, AND KLAMPENBORG. The traveller should hire an open carriage for the day, and leave town about ten in the morning. The round I am going to describe is one of the most delightful day's outings imaginable. After passing the cemeteries, note the Church of S. Jakob; but it is new, and consequently void of historic renown. Now we are on the beautiful Strand Road (Strandvej), where, for ten or twelve miles, stretches an almost unbroken line of country houses, villas, "restorations," tea gardens, bathing-places, palaces, fishing hamlets, and parks, amongst which Charlottenlund and the Dyrehaven, accessible by a special railway line as well as by the Strand Road, are decidedly the most popular. We turn off towards the woods of Charlotten- lund, where stands the summer home of the Crown Prince, familiarly called ** Skoven " (the wood) \ but this in no way interferes with the freedom with which SA THE ENVIRONS. U5 the citizens wander through the woods ; nor do any restrictions bar their access to the neighbouring park of BernstorfF, where the king and queen hold their summer court, and where a republican simplicity marks the relations maintained between sovereign and people. Near Charlottenlund is the much - frequented restaurant, Constantia-on-the-Sound, the sea-baths of Oharlottenlund, ten minutes' walk to the North Hotel, Skovshoved, from whence there is still a walk of twenty-five minutes to the Hotel Bellevue at Klam- penborg. We drive for some miles till we come to the Dryehave (Deer-park), a magnificent forest with numerous varieties of game — stags, fallow-deer, and roe-deer. Then come out on an open plain, where stands, in bold relief, a pretentious-looking hunting-lodge called " HERMITAGE '' (eremitagen), Built for the royal sportsman. Christian VI. From its many-windowed frontage, a fine view is obtained of the coast-land beyond the Sound, now for ever lost to Denmark. The only room reserved for royalty is a lunching hall, and the roof and walls of it are very handsomely decorated in gilding, plate-glass, and plaster-work. The furniture is crimson satin. The lower part of the palace is converted into a restaurant by the people in charge of the lodge. Not long since a servant, who was on the point of committing an 10 146 THE ENVIRONS, extensive silver-plate robbery, hanged herself on being discovered. The Danes show a marked pre- ference for hanging — that mode of death being chosen in about seventy-five per cent, of all cases of suicide. KIRSTEN PIIL'S KILDE (WELL). In the neighbourhood of Dyrehaven, called Dyre- havsbakken, is Kirstetl Piils Kilde, which, in by- gone times, drew pilgrims to this spot, through the assumed healing power of its water ; and though faith in its efficacy is a tale of the past, it is still the centre of attraction, for here Copenhagen annually enjoys a summer revel, and the most popular shows in the Fair group themselves round about the well. It reaches its climax of merriment and noise on St. John's Eve (S. Hans. Aften) June 23rd. With us, the common fern, or bracken, is said to flower at mid- night, on the Eve of S. John, and whoever finds the flower is supposed to be protected from all evil influences, and will receive a revelation of hidden mysteries. LYNGBY Takes rank after Klampenborg and Skodsberg as a favourite pleasure resort of the inhabitants of Copen- hagen, and deservedly so. It is seven and a half miles from Copenhagen, and near the little town of Lyngby is CASTLE SORGENFRI, Which signifies " Free from cares," celebrated for its bloom of roses, but not distinguished in any THE ENVIRONS, 147 architectural respect. It stands on a small embank- ment, and was the summer residence of the late King Christian VIII. The park is its great charm ; it is beautiful in its simplicity, and open to the public. Through the grounds runs a charming brook, and near it has been erected a monument in memory of the late Queen- Dowager, Caroline Amalie, widow of Christian YIII. — a column of granite, with a medalion of the Queen, in marble, executed by Evens. The monument bears, besides the name, the following inscription : — " Erected by Danish men and women, on the 28th of June 1882. " During sixty-five years Sorgenfri was her summer residence. "Born June 26th, 1796. "Queen from 1839-1848. "Died March 9th, 1881." Hotel Rustenborg is at the station of Lyngby, and Store Kro near the Palace. At a distance of about two miles the following places form a very pretty half circle round Lyngby : — The Dyrehave (Park); the Eremitage or " King's Hunting Palace ; " Klampenborg ; Charlottenlund ; Fortunen ; the beautiful village of Ordrup, whose charming neighbouring woods, called the Copse of Ordrup, lead in a south-westerly direction towards the village of Gjentofte, with its pretty lakes and church of the 13th century ; also the Bernstorff Castle, summer residence of the king. On the high road in the vicinity stands a plain obelisk, which the thankful peasants of Count 148 TEE ENVIRONS, BernstorfF have erected in his honour, on account of his having released them from their enforced abiding at home. " Jcegersborg Dyrehave " has even greater natural beauty than Kirs ten PiiPs Deer Park, but, owing to its greater distance from Copenhagen, is less frequented. After visiting Dronninggaard, a dairy of con- siderable size, and charmingly situated, we betake ourselves in a^bye-path, in a western direction, to the country-seat of Count Schulin, at Frederiksdal, whose forest, beside the handsome Lake Furre or " Fuursden," is undoubtedly a beautiful spot. RAAYAD (restaurant). A lake near the hotel, upon which are pleasure- boats, and one of the most extensive cutlery works in Denmark, worked by water power. SKODSBORG. (badehotel, hotel oresund.) This hotel is erected on a high embankment, overlooking the sea, and the landing for steamers. On the summit is the restaurant and music hall, and near the hotel are two country houses that we will pass in our drive to town. They were used by Frederik VII. and his left-handed wife, the Countess Danner. After her death the manor-house was sold, together with the territory belonging to it, to an THE ENVIRONS, 149 association. The little village itself affords summer dwellings to the Copenhageners. KLAMPENBORG (hotel bellevue), About an English mile nearer Copenhagen than Skodsborg, and twenty-five minutes' journey by rail from Copenhagen ; tickets, 60, 40, and 25 ore. A carriage from Copenhagen out here costs 5 kroners ; to and fro 8 kroners ; Sundays, more. It is an establishment for hydropathic regimen and sea-baths j accessible, by steamer, train, or steam- tram, at almost any hour during the summer months. The hotel is very good; the table d'hote, together with general attendance, both excellent and reasonable. It stands on low ground near the turnpike, but quite shut in from the road with trees ; erected in 1846 by a joint-stock company, and thought to be almost matchless in its bfeautiful site ; it was mostly designed after Professor Nebelong. Besides the Hotel, there are within the grounds handsome cottages, to be let with or without attendance from the hotel ; ladies' and gentlemen's reading-rooms, concert hall, refreshment rooms, and a good theatre, which is supplied with jfirst-class actors from the Royal. Stay and have tea here, or what the Danes call supper ; and after refreshment you will be in a more com- fortable state to enjoy the drive back to town by twilight, which is picturesque in the extreme. For miles there is on one side an endless open expanse of water, dotted here and there with pleasure-boats. 150 TEE ENVIRONS. whilst on the other are pretty villas of various styles, nestled charmingly within the shrubberies of their own grounds, occasionally intercepted by illuminated tea-gardens, all looking as unlike an English landscape as possible. FREDENSBORG PALACE. " 'Tis fare ye well, my bonnie palace." Fredensborg is not an imposing-looking structure from the road, as the low white-washed walls give it more the appearance of a barracks than a castle. The only outer conspicuous feature is the glass and copper-roofed dome, which gives light to the ban- queting hall, in which was signed the Treaty of Peace with Sweden in 1720, under Frederik IV. — hence the name, " Castle of Peace." This hall is the only apartment with any pretensions to size or beauty. The walls are 80 feet high. An ornamental stone and marble gallery runs round the four sides, connecting it again with the second floor. Above this gallery are twelve large oil paintings, all of them, I believe, by Mandelberg. The chairs were rescued from the burn- ing of Frederiksborg. There are on the first floor about twenty reception rooms, all handsomely furnished. Amongst the furniture note the two screens. One was painted by the present Queen Louise, wife of Christian IX., and the other by Eleonore Christine Ulfeldt, daughter of Christian IV., and Kirstine Munk. Eleonore Christine was born July 8th, 1621, and married Corfitz Ulfeldt, when only sixteen years of age. She was beautiful and accomplished, and for this < < o O Q r TEE ENVIRONS. 151 reason, it seems, hated by the then reigning queen, Sophie Amalie, daughter-in-law of Christian IV. When Corfitz had been convicted of high treason, and executed in G^gy, his ever true and loving wife was in England, and the English Government handed her over to the tender mercies of Sophie Amalie, who had her imprisoned for twenty-two years in Blaataarn — a dark and dismal dungeon in Copenhagen. After the death of the flint-hearted Sophie Amalie the poor sufferer was set at liberty, and received a yearly pension, whilst the former once far-renowned nunnery at Maribo was given her for a residence. There she lived for thirteen years, and died in her seventy-seventh year. What a sad fate ! But all the ladies there do not seem to have had such a dull time, as the nunnery was disestablished some years before on account of the disrepute of its high-born dames. The Garden Room is the most cheerful; the flooring is of black and white marble, whilst the furniture con- sists of gilt chairs and small marble-topped tables. The walls and roof are ornamented with pictures, some of them by Heinrich Krock. On the terrace, facing this room, amongst the marble statues are some of Wiedewelt's most notable works. The centre one represents Denmark as seated, one hand resting on a shield, bearing the escutcheon of Denmark — i.e., three lions. Amongst the numerous names of royalty scribbled on the window-panes in the Garden Room (so called) is conspicuous that of our amiable Princess Alexandra, of whom it may be as truly said to-day as it was twenty -five years ago by the Poet-Laureate — 152 THE ENVIRONS, " Saxons, and Danes, and Normans are we, But all of us Danes in our welcome to thee ! " Frederik lY., founder of the Palace, showed a marked predilection for it, the distance from the capital, where the marriage of the king was unpopular among the higher classes, being probably regarded by the royal couple as not .the least of its advantages. After the death of Frederik, Fredensborg continued to be the favourite summer residence of the royal family until the long reign of his descendant, Frederik VI., who had a morbid dislike to see or hear of anything that had been associated with his English mother, Caroline Matilda, who is said to have spent here ^he happiest days of her stay in Denmark. She was evidently a keen horsewoman, and indulged, it would seem, without stint or discretion, in her passion for long hunting and riding excursions, in which her feeble husband could take no part. This amusement was, alas, counted against her as so much evidence of guilt and depravity by the Danish women, to whom riding was then an unknown art, and even now they are no great admirers of the " Tally-ho ! '' or horse tribe. After standing empty for some years, the Palace was temporarily converted into a Hampton Court, in which nobly-born widows or orphans found a com- modious, if somewhat dull, abode, until the death of Frederik removed the royal ban from Fredensborg, which, since the beginning of the present king's reign, has recovered its long - obscured renown, and has again become the recognised summer seat of the Court. Apply at the chief entrance for permission TEE ENVIRONS. 163 to see over the Palace ; and, provided the royal family are not staying there at the time, you will be shown over it for a small donation. We leave now the Garden-Room ; turning to the left, come directly on the " Marble Garden," so called from its profuse decorations in marble. It is most tastefully laid out, especially the rose garden, which is in the form of a miniature island, with a white marble figure of Flora, Goddess of Flowers, in the middle. From here we can wander into the woods, which have a circumference of about eight miles, and are the great charm of Fredensborg. More delightful woodland scenery, when viewed in the wealth of its summer glory, or in the golden light of autumn, it would indeed be difficult to find. Esrom is the largest of a network of small lakes, afifording so much beauty to the surrounding country. There is, however, none of the rugged grandeur of our queen of Scottish lakes that could draw such an expression from the beholder as that which Dr. Chalmers gave utterance to on first beholding bonnie Loch Lomond — *'Will there be a Loch Lomond in Heaven It " For there are no towering hills, or frowning peaks, to cast their dark shadows athwart the expanse of waters. But from the Palace to the shores of Esrom Lake the linden and beech trees form winding alleys, one of which is called ** The Avenue of Sighs," and here the trees bend their majestic forms over the water, like aged men, listening fondly to the prattle of a much-loved child, till their great boughs sweep the rippling wavelets, as though in the act of invoking a blessing. 154 THE ENVIRONS, Amongst the groups of statuary near the Lake, note the " Normandsdal/' — about sixty or seventy weather-beaten, and rather dilapidated stone figures, representing Norse men and women in their various national dresses, some of them in the act of dancing, and all looking very absurd. The figures are dotted about in a damp, over- shadowed hollow, having a colossal COlumn in the centre ; and the efiect of this dark Yalhalla, with its crippled and dismembered assembly is rather depressing. The figures owe their origin to an outburst of Norwegian loyalty about the middle of the last century, and not, as some affirm, to the exceptionally bad taste on the part of Danish loyalty. The town of Fredensborg has about eight hundred and fifty inhabitants, and is situated in one of the most romantic districts of the central part of North Sealand, in the neighbourhood of Lake Esrom. Near the station is Hansen's Restaurant -, a little further along, turning to the left, we come to Store Kro, where comfortable accommodation can be had. From the hotel garden a magnificent view of Lake Esrom is to be seen. The town is twenty English miles from Copenhagen; the old castle of Frederiks- borg is five miles nearer. It is better to take this one first. Now we must away, for our time, like that of many more unfortunate tourists, is limited, or we could have spent a whole day pleasantly in wandering through the woods to Frederiksborg, instead of taking the train or driving, but then we should not TEE ENVIRONS. 155 arrive in time to see over the Castle before dusk, so let us drive along the road, which is under an almost unbroken avenue of trees. Cost of train to Fredensborg from Copenhagen : — SINGLE. RETURN. 1st . 3 kr. 1st Hkr. 2nd . 2 kr. 2nd 3 kr. 3rd . H kr. 3rd . 2-30 kr. FREDERIKSBORG PALACE (SLOT), THE DANISH KENSINGTON, Or the National Historical Museum {Det National Historishe Museum), " It's love of beauty maketh man Build palaces august and fair, Vast halls of just proportion plan, And bring all things of beauty there." The Castle stands five miles from the " Palace of Peace," Fredensborg, which we have just left, and midway between the Capital and Elsinore. It is a thing of beauty, with its fair surroundings, and must impress the beholders deeply. The walls of the Castle rise from out of the waters, like picturesque Venice, rendering it unique in its singularly grand effect, and, together with the surrounding park and lakes, make it one of the most perfect things in Northern Europe, and a never-to-be-forgotten picture. The Castle cannot possibly disappoint you, and the building 156 THE ENVIRONS, itself, though comparatively new, has somehow so much of apparent age about it, and, by its very form, so suggestive of a past, that you are charmed with it at once. The original building was commenced by Frederik II., grandfather of the unfortunate Charles I. of England, and father of Christian lY. It was here that the latter's love of maritime sports first showed itself in the miniature fleet that he superintended on its lake, while yet in his childhood^s days ; and its restoration under the same king, who acted as his own architect and clerk of the works, shows him to have been possessed of no ordinary ability. A stone is still pointed out in the park as that on which the royal architect used to sit when paying his men their weekly wages. Unfortunately a fire, said to have originated in the billiard-room on the night of December 14th, 1857 (owing in some way to the care- lessness of Frederik YII. and his wife, the Countess Danner, who were staying here at the time), destroyed all but the outer walls. The restoration of this, the noblest of the many royal residences, is now complete ; it has rapidly risen from the ashes into its old shape, under the able management of the architect, Mr. Meldahl. Vast sums have been spent on the work, and now it shines again, as in its pristine glory, a fitting subject for the highest faculties of painter or poet. The cost of the work has been met by grants from the Diet and private subscriptions, foremost amongst which ranks that of the late Herr Jacobsen (a brewer), who gave £11,000 for the restoration of what is called the royal wing, with a strongly- THE ENVIRONS. 157 expressed wish that it should, in the future, be used for royal ceremonials and an historical museum, to illustrate the progress of art and industry in Denmark. In crossing the first bridge may be noticed the two round towers, the only remains of the work of Frederik II. Next comes the stable-yard, from which we pass under a large gate-tOwer into a second palace- yard or court. To the front is the main building ; at the sides the government offices, the house of the clerk-of-the-stables, and the audience-house. Passing the third bridge, numerous figures are seen adorning the walls ; and now we are at the inner court-yard of the castle. To the right is the Princess' wing, to the left the Church wing, and facing us the King's wing, by which we are going to enter. The building is four stories in height, composed of red stone, with ornaments in sandstone, and richly decorated with sculpture, the whole surmounted with towers and a steeple containing the bells. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. The Ground Floor. NO. 1. FIRST HALL (sTUEETAGEN). 2.— Statue of Thyra, "the Dane's Pride," Gorm's Queen. (Modelled by F. Ring.) Queen Thyra built a boundary wall for defence against the Germans, whilst her husband, like a true-born Northman, was engaged in piracy. 158 TEE ENVIRONS, NO. 14. Statue of ** Saxo Grammaticus " (modelled by O. Evens). This grammarian was a Dane of the Twelfth century, and wrote in Latin the history of his native country, in which he affirms the Danish monarchy to have been founded by a person of the name of "Dan," after whom the country was called " Danmark ; " that he lived about the year b.c. 2910; and that the country has ever since been governed by his posterity. The name of " Saxo Grammaticus " is also asso- ciated with English literature as that of the author who first gave the history of Hamlet the Dane, whom Shakespeare has immortalised. Vedel, in the latter half of the Sixteenth century, gave Denmark a translation of Saxo's History. NO. 16. Statue of King Yaldemar II., Sejr. (1170), 1202- 241. King Yaldemar (Modelled by Th. Stein.) 1241. King Yaldemar lY., Atterdag, 1340-1375. FiKST Floor (Iste Etage). NO. 21. TOWER ROOM. On the ceiling a painting by N. Overgaard, repre- senting King Christian Y., for whom the vices recede. The idea was taken from an older painting, which was placed before the fire. The decorations of the room as it was in the time of Christian Y. before the fire, this room not having been destroyed. THE ENVIRONS, 159 The Corridor of the Council. NO. 25. Paintings. 25. — The conspirators coming on horseback from the village of Finderup after the murder of King Erik Clipping, 1286. (Painted by Otto Bache.) Furniture. Three large carved oak chests, one of which belonged to the parents of the learned Jorgen Seefelds. **Ohristoffer Lauritzen Seefeld to Refsnaes, 1543- 1612, and his wife, Else Nielsdatter Benderup." Their arms are carved on the front. NO. 27. Paintings. King Christian I. receiving a medal from Pope Sixtus lY. at the time of his visit to Rome, 1474. (Copy taken by Y. Rosenstand from a fresco in the Hospital S. Spirito at Rome.) Four paintings by Jurian Owens (1623-1678), representing diflferent historical events. (See tablets fixed on the paintings.) Bay- Windowed Room. NO. 29. Paintings. The Swedish King, Albrecht of Mecklenburg, presents, kneeling, his crown to Queen Margrethe, 160 THE ENVIRONS. after having been made prisoner at the battle of Falkoping, 1389. Painted by Gerhard Hondhorst (1592-1664). The city of Hamburg paying homage to King Christian TV. and Duke Johan Adolf, of Holsten- Oottorp. (Painted by Jurian Owens.) NO. 30. Bay- Windowed Room. Bust, Hans Tausen, Bishop of Ribe, 1494-1561. The first ardent champion of the Reformation in Den- mark. (Modelled by Th. Stein.) NO. 31. The ceiling decorations represent the stars in the heavens, surrounded by symbolic personifications of the planets. (Painted by N. Overgaard.) Paintings, 1-2. — Views of Tyge Brahe's Castle on Hveen, TJranieborg, and the Stjerneborg Observatory. (Painted by Heinrich Hansen.) 3. — Portrait of Tyge Brahe's old housekeeper, *' Live Lauritzdatter." (Painted by P. van der Hult.) 7-8. —The astronomer, Tyge Brahe, 1546-1601, and the astronomer, Christen Longomontanus, 1562- 1647. THE ENVIRONS. 161 NO. 32. Tower Room. The ceiling after an old stuccoed ceiling at Kron- borg. A cast of the tombstone of the astronomer, Tycho Brahe, in the Teiner Church, in Prague. Second Floor. NO. 35. 17. — King Charles I. of England, as a child (bom 1600), 1625-1649. 19. — Medical Professor Ole Worm, an illustrious antiquarian, 1588-1654. (Copy by O. Haslund, after the original in Aarhus Cathedral School.) NO. 36. Painting on the ceiling. " Aurora " (painted by L. Tuxen) ; the rest after a motive at Gripsholm. Paintings, The young King Christian lY. visiting, with a couple of noblemen, the old Chancellor Niels Kaas on his death-bed, and receives from him the key of the Royal Treasury. (Painted by Carl Bloch.) Josias Rantzau, a Dane by birth, who entered the French army, and became marshal of France 1609- 1650. He had sixty wounds on his body, besides having lost an eye, an arm, and a leg, but, like Nelson, remained the ladies' favourite. (Painted by 11 162 THE ENVIRONS. Jean Alaux.) The copy by P. S. Kroyer, after the original in the Marshal Gallery at Versailles. The clergyman, Ole Vind, preaching before King Christian IV. (Painted by C. 0. Andersen.) Furniture, A carved oak cupboard, a couple of chairs, an oak chest, with iron mountings, and another oak chest, once belonging to Henning Quitzov, to Sandager (1513-1569) and Birgitte Ronnow, whose several arms are carved on the front. NO. 37. Paintings. 9. — King Christian V. at the siege of Landskrona. (Painted by Peder Andersen as cartoon to the tapestry in the Knights' Hall at Rosenborg.) Historical Engravings. 23. — King Christian IV., his coronation and pro- cession. King Christian IV. holding different councils with his knights in the canopied hall at the Castle of Copenhagen. 24.— King Christian IV. on *'Trefoldigheden." (Engraved by J. Ballin after Marstrand's painting in the chapel of Christian IV. in Roskilde Cathedral.) Given by the church and school department. NO. 39. The Knights' Hall. The ceiling is renewed as it was before the fire of 1859. The decorations of the windows, and the THE ENVIRONS, 168 borders on the walls, and on the carpet before the door leading to the tower stairs, are copied from antique designs. Painted Portraits, 7.— King George II. of England, 1727-1760. NO. 40. Allegorical paintings on the ceiling by L. Tuxen, representing Ocean and Earth. Engravings — (Portraits), 12-17. — Prince George of Denmark, son of Frederik III., 1653-1708, and his. wife. Queen Anna of England, 1714. NO. 42. Paintings, 4. — A meeting between Councillor Otto Krag and the Burgomaster, Hans Nansen, at Hojbro, during the parliament in Copenhagen, 1660. Krag, pointing to the well-known prison tower, called Blaataarn, asks Nansen if he knows its destination. Nansen answers by pointing to the alarm bell in the tower of Our Lady's Church, which could bring forth all the citizens. (Painted by Heinrich Hansen.) 5. — The Swedish king, Charles X., Gustav, discharging the first shot on the Dutch navy from Kronborg. The navy are sailing up the Sound to the relief of besieged Copenhagen, 1658. (Painted by Heinrich Hansen.) 164 THE ENVIRONS, Busts, 1. — The Treasurer Ohristoffer Gabel. (Modelled by A. W. Saaby.) NO. 43. Painted Portraits, 1.— King Christian V., 1648-1699. 2. — Queen Charlotte Amalie as Crown Princess, 1650-1714. 9, 10. — Charles, Landgreve of Hessen-Kassel, 1654- 1730, brother of Queen Charlotte Amalie. 21.— Niels Juel, admiral, 1629-1697. 22.— Peder Griffenfeld, chancellor, 1635-1699. NO. 47. Painted Portraits, 1. — King Frederik IV. as a youth (born 1671), 1699-.1730. (Painted by Rigaud.) 2, 3. — The same, a few years later. 8.— -Ivar Hvitfeld, commodore, 1665-1710. He fell in battle in the Bay of Kjogebugt, when the ship Dannehrog blew up. (Copy by K. Zahrtmann after the original, which belongs to the Consul Hvitfeld in Trondhjem. 9.— Peter Tordenskjold, 1691-1720. (Copy by K. Zahrtmann after the original in the old northern collection in Christiania.) THE ENVIRONS, 165 Engraved Portraits, 1-4. — King Frederik IV. and his queens, Louise of Mecklenburg and Anna Sophie Reventlow, 1693-1743. Furniture. A collection of inlaid furniture, particularly a Chest that once belonged to Lieutenant-General Johan Georg Moltke, 1764 ; married to the Baroness Wolzogen. NO. 48. Pictures in the Ceiling, The Bishop Hans Tausen, 1491-1561. The Bishop Peder Blade, 1503-1560. The Bishop Hans Poulsen Resen, 1561-1638. The Bishop Jesper Brochmand, 1585-1652. (Painted by Overgaard.) Painted Portraits. 11. — Caroline of Anspach, Queen of England, 1757 ; married to King George II. of England. NO. 49. Painted Portraits. 2.— King Frederik V., 1746-1766. (Painted by Pilo.) 3. — Queen Louise, Princess of England, 1724-1751. (Painted by Pilo.) 1^6 TEE ENVIRONS. Furniture, A collection of furniture in the rococco style, particularly a corner cupboard with Queen Juliane Marie's coronet and monogram, and a cabinet bequeathed to the Museum by the Councillor of State, 0. P. Schonning. The Oorridor parallel with no. 48 and 49. Sculptures, 4.— Ludvig Holberg, 1684-1754. Statuette. (Modelled by Th. Stein.) NO. 50. Decorations of the ceiling after a design in Calmar Castle. Painted Portraits, 1.— King Christian VII., 1766-1808. (Painted by P. Als.) Engravings and Lithographs, 2. — Johannes Ewald, poet, 1743-1781. Johan Herman Wessel, poet, 1742-1785. NO. 51. The ceiling, after a design in the Town Hall at Liineburg. Painted Portraits. 1.— King Frederik VI., 1808-1839. (Painted by Eckersberg.) TEE ENVIRONS. 167 12. — Johan Ewald, Lieutenant-General, 1744-1813. (Painted by Ohr. Alb. Jensen.) 21. — Peter Erasmus Miiller, Bishop of Sealand, 1776-1834. (Painted by his son, Adam Muller.) 29. — Johan Ohr. Drewsen, paper manufacturer, and editor of Land Economist, 1777-1851. (Painted by J. Roed.) 32.— Albert Thorvaldsen. (Painted by Chr. Alb. Jensen.) 37. — Carl Fried, L. T. Rumohr, baron, and art- historian, 1785-1843. (Painted by W. Marstrand.) 44. — Musical evening party at the merchant Waage-Petersen's ; with portraits of the conductor 0. N. Schall j the composer Zinck ; the conductors F. T. Wexschall, Frolich, and Bredahl ; the Professors Mathison-Hansen, Hartmann, Weyse, Eckersberg, W. Marstrand, etc. (Painted by W. Marstrand.) Furniture. A collection of furniture from the time of King Frederik YI., particularly an arm-chair that belonged to King Frederik VI. himself, and a fire-screen with ornamentations by Abildgaard, representing the Temple of Happiness. NO. 52. Paintings. 2.— Queen Caroline Amalie, 1796-1881. (Painted by Cour.) 168 THE ENVIROFS, 1.— King Christian YIII., 1839-1848. (Painted by Cour.) NO. 53. Paintings, 4. — Hans Birch Dahlerup, Danish Commodore Captain ; entered Austrian service 1848, and became vice-admiral and baron, 1790-1872. (Painted by N. P. Holbech.) NO. 54 (6), The Corridor parallel with no. 53. Lithographs. 3. — Johan Ludvig Lund, Professor of the Art Academy, historical painter, 1777-1867. Just Ulrik Jerndorflf, painter, 1806-1847. First Floor (Forste Etage). NO. 56. Paintings, 1. — An episode from the Danish troops' march into Flensborg after the battle at Bov, April 9th, 1848. (Painted by F. C. Lund.) 2. — Danish hussars lying in ambush on the heath outside Dannevirke. Early morning towards the end of summer, 1850. (Painted by J. Sonne.) NO. 57. Paintings. 5. — Elizabeth Baumann Jerichau, married to the sculptor, A. Jerichau (painter), 1819-1881. (Painted by herself.) TEE ENVIRONS. 16^ 9. — Jorgen Valentin Sonne, historical painter, born 1801. (Painted by J. Roed.) 10. — Hermann Vilhelm Bissen, sculptor, 1798- 1868. (Painted by W. Marstrand.) NO. 59. Paintings on the Ceiling, The States of the Kingdom of Denmark paying tithes. (Painted by L. Tuxen.) Busts, 1. — King Christian IX. 2. — Queen Louise. (Marble busts, modelled by H. V. Bissen.) NO. 60. Painting on the ceiling representing a meeting between Jupiter and Juno. Painted Portraits, 2. — Niels Yilhelm Gade, professor and composer, born 1817. (Painted by 0. Bloch.) NO. 61. Painted Portraits, Johan Nicolai Madvig, minister of ecclesiastical affairs and of public instruction, privy councillor of conference, born 1804. (Painted as E/Cctor-Magnificus at the feast of the 400 Years Jubilee of the University in the year 1879.) (Painted by 0. Bloch.) A. F. Krieger, Lord Chief-Justice of the Upper Court. (Painted by C. Bloch.) 170 THE ENVIRONS. NO. 62. E. Suenson, Vice- Admiral (born 1805), standing on the bridge of the frigate Niels Juel during the battle of Heligoland, May 9th, 1864. (Painted by O. Bache.) Cost of admission to the Palace, 30 ore for one person. THE CHAPEL. , Its restoration was completed in 1874, and it again exhibits its former elaborate rococco ornamentation and resplendent colouring, now used as a parish church. The beautifully-carved oak door at the entrance is worthy of notice. As you pass into the middle of the chapel, stand and view the whole while the sun is shining, and the first impression, with the reflection from the stained-glass windows and the sparkling silver, you will find almost overpowering. All is in perfect harmony. The chapel is small, having only a length of about fifty-four yards, with a breadth and height in proportion. The silver-gilt and ebony altar and pulpit were saved from the fire, and now form most precious memorials of Christian IV. and the former splendour of Frederiksborg. The ebony is all profusely but tastefully mounted with mother-of-pearl and silver. The pulpit is ornamented by six silver Cupids, each about half-a-yard in length, standing out from the ebony background, and also separated by two elegantly-carved silver pillars. The ceiling is arched. An ornamental gallery runs round three sides of the chapel, and on the fourth side, which is behind the organ, it forms two private THE ENVIRONS. 171 prayer-rooms, one of which was used by the king, and the other by those in waiting. The gallery is held up by pillars, ornamented with alabaster figures. There is only one new picture in the chapel, as there was time to cut the others out of their frames. ft. It is by Rgfd, and is called The Crucifixion. In the centre of this picture is our Saviour on the cross, and on either side of him the two thieves ; at the foot of the cross is Mary, the mother of Christ. To the right, the Apostle St. John, and also some soldiers throwing dice for the cloak of the Saviour. To the left, soldiers marching off. In the foreground, to the right, the executioner, and a mother and her child flying away in terror. In the foreground, to the left, is Caiaphas, who is leaving the spot, and also the Roman chaplain of the guard ; to the right of him is Pilate. The two latter are on horseback. In the background is Jerusalem, with a dark, lowering sky. On either side of the window recesses hang the coats-of-arms of the Order of the Knights of the Elephant and those of the Grand Cross of Dannebrog, Denmark's national ensign, with its white cross on a blood-red field. This ensign is in commemoration of a victory over the Pagan Wends, by Valdemar II., in 1219, when, according to popular belief, the Dannebrog was miraculously displayed before the eyes of both the armies, just as the Danes were giving way. The sight of the emblem of their faith gave to each Christian ♦ Dane the strength of ten men, whilst the Pagans fell back affrighted at the vision ; and before another 172 THE ENVIRONS. day dawned the Dannebrog waved over the heads of thousands of converts, who had been signed with the cross by Andreas Sunesen, the Danish Primate, to whose prayers on the field of battle is attributed Denmark's possession of her cherished national standard. The old organ dates from the time of Christian IV. The stained-glass window behind was a gift to the church by Sir Morton Peto. At the other end of the chapel stands the handsome silver organ, which was repaired after the fire ; and behind it is — THE PRAYER-ROOM OF CHRISTIAN IV. It will not, of course, bear comparison with the Sistine Chapel, where Michael Angelo has, with his matchless technical skill, unfolded the history of man's Redemption; — that must stand unrivalled to the end of time, as the highest standard of art. But, like Rubens, Bloch may be said to have made a name for his country in the world of art, for his pictures are, like those of Gu stave Dord's, nothing short of inspiration, though very differently proportioned. Both artists have adopted the white robing that so appropriately represents the spotless Lamb of God, and it is very refreshing after the hackneyed red and blue of the old masters. To the lovers of pictorial art, I venture to say, more genuine enjoyment will be found in contemplating this limited collection, than in travelling over miles of canvas covering the walls of an annual exhibition. Bloch's paintings may be divided into two classes — Historical and Religious, In both he is eminently successful, and the subjects U TEE ENVIRONS. 173 chosen are always worthy of the talent displayed. In the treatment of History he is free and vigorous, but in matters of Religion all is soft, tender, and subdued ; nor is Nature lost sight of, but rather elevated and chastened by the magic of his touch. The following is a list of the pictures by Bloch : — 1. 'The Annunciation.* 2. * Mary's Visit to Elizabeth.' 3. * Angels telling the news to the Shepherds.' 4. * The Nativity : the Shepherds paying homage.' 5. * The Flight to Egypt : Mary and the Holy Child asleep : Joseph watching.' 6. * The Slaughter of the Innocents.' 7. * Christ, twelve years old, teaching in the Temple.' 8. * Christ baptised by John the Baptist.' 9. * The Temptation.' 10. 'The Marriage at Cana.' 11. * Christ at the Well, Talking with the Woman of Samaria.* 12. * Christ Restoring Sight to the Blind.' 13. * The Sermon on the Mount.' 14. 'Christ Turning the Money-changers out of the Temple.* 15. * Christ Blessing little Children.' 16. * The Transfiguration.' 17. * The Raising of Lazarus.' 18. *The Last Supper.' 19. * Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane.' 20. 'Peter's Denial.' 21. * The Descent from the Cross.' 22. 'In the Tomb.' 23. ' The Resurrection.' " Christ is arisen, The Lord hath ascended ; The dominion of death And corruption is ended." — Goethe* 174 TEE ENVIRONS, The names of the kings who were crowned in the chapel are, Christian V., Frederik VI., and Christian YIII. Frederik YII., like the present king, was simply elected, not crowned. A small gratuity is expected from visitors to the sexton, who shows them over the chapel. Owing to the great influx of visitors on Sundays, the many objects of interest cannot be seen to such advantage as on other days, THE GARDENS, With their box-cut hedges, terraces, straight walks, and broad avenues, still show traces of the stiff style of the age of Christian lY ; but in the adjoining Dyrehave, if we except an occasional incongruity in the form of a Gothic bathing-house, a chalet fishing-hut, or a Greek temple summer- house, nothing has been done to detract from the natural beauty of the spot. THE TOWN OF HILLEROD Does not possess attractions for the tourist, and is solely known as the nearest station to Frederiksborg and the lake of Hillerod, in which the castle stands. The term "tortoise-like" might well be applied to the town and its inhabitants, for they seem to be quite content with their one great building, the castle. Yet, in an age of hurry and bustle like our own, it is w^ell there are such places. If Mr. Ruskin has never been, he ought to go and be charmed, for it is in many things the very ideal he has laboriously elaborated through the hundreds of pages of Fors Clavigera — a THE ENVIRONS, 175 place where the people directly or indirectly live by agriculture, and where new ways, if admitted at all, will be admitted under protest. Now let us view the setting sun, as its dying glory illuminates the turrets of the magnificent castle, and burnishes the waters of the Lake of Hillerod ; then adjourn to the Hotel LeidersdorfF, facing the lake before mentioned, and, after refreshing the inner^man^ take the train back to Copenhagen. ROSKILDE. " Oh ! sweetly they slumber, Nor love, hope, nor fear ; Peace, peace is the watch-word — The only one here." To the west of Copenhagen, by railway, about sixteen English miles. The first railway opened in Denmark, 1847, was between this, the ancient capital and Copenhagen. Roskilde derives its name from the Pagan king Hroar (Hroarskilde it was first called), who founded it in the fifth century, and for 500 years it was the capital of Denmark ; but now there is little more to see than its Cathedral, which was founded by Canute the Holy in 1084, who was afterwards murdered by his own people in St. Alban's Church, Odense. Canute the Great, after quarrelling with his brother-in law, Ulf Jarl, over a game of draughts, caused him to be murdered at the altar-steps of Trefoldighed's Church at Roskilde ; and to atone for this disgraceful deed, he gave all the ground belonging to him to the Cathedral at Roskilde, which is alsa 176 THE ENVIRONS, called St. Lucii. This Canute the Great was also •our king. ** Merry sang the mouks of Ely, As the king was passing by. *Row to the shore, knights,' said Canute the king, * And let us hear those churchmen sing.' " The beautiful Cathedral is in the Roman style, and stands almost oa the site where once stood a temple of Odin, the Norseland All Father, whose existence ■can hardly be doubted, so well is it borne out by the traditions prevalent throughout the Scandinavian territories. Scandinavia is said to have been con- quered by Odin about forty years before the birth of Christ, and Sweno, a contemporary of Saxo Gram- maticus, traces the foundation of the Danish monarchy to Sligold, son of Odin, thus following the statements of the Icelandic chronicles. Odin held the first place amongst the gods, and was ^supposed to own two ravens, ** Huggin " and ** Munnin " — Mind and Memory — which sat on his shoulders, and gave him tidings of what they saw and heard in their daily flight over earth and sea ; in consequence of which great sacrifices were made overy seven or nine years, to which fiocked crowds of Vikingers, eager to secure a rich harvest in the future by devoting to the divinity, who was thought to value money above all earthly things, a portion of the wealth they had gained. Piracy, as England knows to her cost, was a recognised calling with the Norseland kings and their subjects, who saw nothing discreditable in taking to their ships and the seas in order to plunder. THE ENVIRONS. 177 The significant petition found in many ancient litanies, " to be delivered from the ire of the Norse- men," goes far towards showing what formidable invaders they were ; and listeners, at a certain spot in Basham Harbour, in Sussex, can yet, it is said, hear the sounds of the church bell which was carried off, some hundreds of years ago, by the profane Danish invaders, and which was miraculously passed through the bottom of the ship into the sea. There, near the church, where it once hung, lies the bell to this day ; and when the chimes in Basham Tower ring, the lost bell joins in the chorus — at least, so the legend affirms. And if you go to Christiatlia, you will see a real Viking ship, and be able to form a better idea of the adventurous life of the Viking voyager. The present church stands out in bold relief on a flat plain, and has a picturesque appearance, with its lofty spires and projecting chapels in the transepts. Inside the church are several altar-pieces of the Thirteenth Century; a piece of clock-WOrk with figures striking the hours, dating from the Fifteenth Century; a pulpit, font, and pew-royal of the Seventeenth Century. The Organ, that sublime instrument which, like the violin, expresses, to my mind, all the feelings of the human heart, is of the Six- teenth Century. I wish you might hear HandePs, " I know that my Redeemer liveth," whilst you are con- templating the monuments of kings and queens, besides a host of historic worthies, to whom death has shown no more respect than to the veriest beggar in the street. The sight of their coffins calls to memory some lines on a gravestone in Elgin churchyard — 12 178 THE ENVIRONS. ^' If lyfe were a thing that monie could buy, The poor could not live, and the rich would not die." All the Danish kings, unfortunately, are not resting here. The brave Yaldemars were buried in S. Bendt's Church at Ringsted, and " Gorm the Old," founder of the Danish monarchy, was buried at Vejle in Jutland. Each division has its king ; one bishop, William (of blessed memory). The monuments are erected, some about the choir, others near the altar, and several in special chapels. But the burial-places of many kings are not distinctly known, and the rest are not arranged in historical order, or catalogued like mummies in a museum. So I will only attempt to draw your attention to a few deserving special notice. We will commence with Harald Blaatatld and Svend Estridsen, who rest in mural niches in the north-western division of the choir. Harald Blaa- tand (Bluetooth) was a son of Gorm the old, who founded the independent monarchy of Denmark. Harald had received his religious teaching from his mother Thyra, and, together with his wife Grinild, received Christian baptism, and was the first Christian king who raised, in honour of the Trinity, a wooden church, which thenceforth ranked as the cathedral of the diocese. Harald died in battle, A.D. 991. The other king, Svend Est rid en, caused Harold's wooden structure to be replaced by a handsome stone building, part of which stills remains, although the outer walls, which were destroyed by fire in the Thirteenth Century, have more than once been renovated, THE ENVIRONS. 179 and only thoroughly restored in 1872. Svend Estriden (son of the powerful Jarl Ulf of Norway) began for Denmark a new church era ; for, though infirm in body, he bears the character of having been proficient in learning, and chose his friends from among the clergy. This king was founder of a dynasty which lasted four hundred years. His second son, Knud TV, (Canute), an ambitious and warlike prince, was slain before the altar, at which he had taken refuge from pursuit, for favouring the clergy and overtaxing the nation. Then, in 1101, his remains were canonised, and he was proclaimed the patron saint of Denmark. Near these mural niches, in the nave of the church, is the black marble sarcophagus of the renowned Queen Margaret of Scandinavia, surmounted by her recumbent effigy, and ornamented by alabaster bas- reliefs. According to tradition, there was buried with her the noted whetstone which she received from her kinsman and rival, Albrecht of Mecklenburg, King of Sweden, with the insulting message, that she would do well " to sharpen her needles, and leave swords to men ; " a taunt which she repaid in kind, when the fortune of war threw Albrecht into her power, by ordering him to be brought into her presence, clad in a woman's gown, and wearing a fool's cap three ells long (six feet), since he had not known how to fight in men's attire. The name of the *' Northern Semiramis " has been given this queen, daughter of Valdemar III. By the death of her father and her son, his successor, she became Queen of Denmark ; and by the death of her husband, Hacon VIIT., 180 THE ENVIRONS. King of Norway, she succeeded to the throne of that kingdom also. She then turned her arms against the Swedish monarch, and united the three kingdoms — called the Calmar Union. Margaret of Scandin- avia is said to have possessed considerable beauty of person and unusual powers of fascination, like Mary of Scotland, whom some men are in love with even to this day. Christian I., 1448-1481, father of the Oldenburg line, whose daughter married James III. of Scotland. The old fresco paintings in this chapel have been quite restored. Christian III., 1536-1559. Under this king the Lutheran faith was established in Denmark. The chapel is well worth special notice. Frederik II., 1559-1588. It was this king who waged a seven years' war with the king of Sweden, to decide which might bear three crowns on his escutcheon. Lliomme propose, etc. Death ended the contest. The Mortuary Chapel of Christian IV., the sight of which makes one meditative. *'Men may come and men may go," but of the place Christian holds in the affections of the living " time but the impression deeper makes, as streams their channel deeper wear." This chapel is, indeed, a striking feature in the church, and is enclosed within a screen of the Seven- teenth Century. The frescoes are by Eddelien and Marstrand, and represent events in the life of Christian. In one we see him on board his ship, the frigate Trefoldigheden — the Trinity — where he lost one eye and damaged the other. The dying are THE ENVIRONS. 181 strewn about the deck at his feet, while he holds in his right hand his sword, and with the other protects the injured eye. In the middle of the chapel stand, side by side, the coffins of the king and his queen, the beautiful Anna Cathrine of Brandenburg. On the former lies the sword which he bore in battle, and which, with its many ounces of silver-work, must have needed a giant's strength to wield. Frederik IV., 1699-1730. This king, with his queens, Louise of Mecklenburg and Anna Sophie Reventlow, have a special chapel. Frederik V., 1746-1766, has beside him his Queens, Louise, the much-beloved daughter of George II. of England, and Juliane Marie, of Brunsvig. In this chapel, built by Harsdoff, is a white marble monument by Thorvaldsen's master, Wiedewelt, which forms a somewhat too glaring centre to a crowd of less pretentious coffins, down to the last male representative of the Oldenborg line, Frederik VIL, whose plain light oak coffin is crowned by a golden wreath of oak leaves, resting on a velvet cushion, placed under a glass shade. This wreath was presented by the women of Denmark in recognition of the constitutional privileges he had conferred upon their brethren. Frederik's morganatic wife, the Countess Banner, lies in the churchyard belonging Holmens Kirke. Next, the vaults may be inspected, where rest the princelings belonging to the royal couples. Alto- gether there are thirty - one kings and queens buried in the church, and forty-six princes and princesses. 182 THE ENVIRONS. On the western side of the principal aisle there has been erected, since 1879, an alabaster figure of the nineteen-year-old son of King Valdemar (brother of Queen Margaret of Scandinavia), on a sarcophagus by Bardiglio. This 'figure was found in a chest in the church, and was restored by the sculptor, Bissen jun. There are also three shields and a tournament helmet grouped round it. The plate on the cover bears the following inscrip- tion : — " Christopher, fourth son of King Yaldemar. Born 1344. Died June 11, 1363." This, his portrait, has been restored and erected, 1879. BISHOP WILLIAM (Wilhelm). The name of this prelate, no unworthy rival of St. Ambrose, should be embalmed in history. He was an Anglo-Saxon ecclesiastic, whom the Archbishop of Bremen had nominated to that dignity, and who had previously been the secretary of Canute the Great. During the long period he governed the diocese of Roskilde, he won the esteem of all men alike by his talents and his virtues. One incident in connection with Bishop William's life I would like to relate here from Dr. Dunham's History of Scandinavia : — " Sweyn II., a man of strong passions, gave a feast to his chief nobles in the city of Rioskilde. Some of the guests, heated with wine, indulged in imprudent^ though perhaps true, remarks on his conduct. The following morning some ofllcious tale-bearers acquainted him with the THE ENVIRONS. 183 circumstance, and, in the rage of the moment, the king ordered them to be put to death, though they were then at mass in the cathedral — the very cathedral which had been the scene of his own father's murder. On the following day, Sweyn proceeded to the church, and was met by Bishop William, who, elevating the crosier, commanded him to retire, which he did, after a lecture from the Bishop. ** Arrived at his palace, he assumed the garb of penance, wept and prayed, and lamented his crime during three days; then presented himself, in the same mean apparel, before the gates of the Cathedral. The Bishop was in the midst of the service ; the " Kyrie Eleison " had been chanted, and the ** Gloria " about to commence, when he was informed that the royal penitent was outside the " Leaving the altar, he repaired to the spot, raised the suppliant monarch, and greeted him with the kiss of peace. To mitigate the canonical penance, the king presented one of his domains to the church. It is no disparagement to the honour of this apostolic churchman that he had previously been the intimate friend of the monarch ; nor to that of Sweyn, that, after this event, he honoured the Bishop more than he had done before." Under a simple stone lies Denmark's king in the realms of mind — Saxo, the grammarian, or the " Learned Man." He is said to have died at Eoskilde in 1204. Pay the sexton 2 kr. for 1-3 persons; 4 kr. for 4-10 persons. 184 THE ENVIRONS. TRAINS From Copenhagen to Roskilde : — SINGLE. RETURN. 1st class . 1 kr. 80 ore 2nd ,, . 1 ,, 50 ,, 3rd „ . 1 „ 15 „ 1st class . 3 kr. 40 ore 2nd ,, . 2 „ 50 „ 3rd „ . 1 ,, 60 ,, HOTEL FREDERIKSSTAD In the Square, opposite the Station. ELSmORE (helsingor). This is the only town of any importance on the N.E. of Sealand, and best known to us under the classic name, ^^ Elsinorey Do not let us go by rail ; it is so slow, like the town itself ; it is hardly pos- sible to find a slower out of Spain. To make the journey by steamer is, to my mind, far the pleasantest — smooth water all the way. The steamer touches at Bellevue, Taarbaek, Skodsborg, and Vedbaek. It was here that the impetuous young king, Sweden's Lion, Charles XII., encamped with his army in 1700, with the intention of marching to Copenhagen, and carrying war to the very gates of the capital, in which his cousin, Frederik IV., was making hasty preparations to oppose the unexpected invaders. At Vedbaek is the park of Count Danneskjold, ** Samsoe,'' which is accessible to the public. From the park may be seen the island of Hveen, where Tycho Brahe, the renowned Danish astronomer, had THE ENVIRONS. 185 built his observatories. Then the steamer touches at Rungsted) where there is a monument to the Danish poet, Johannes Ewald who wrote the well- known song, beginning — ** King Christian stood by the lofty mast. Rungsted, a fishing village, seven and a-half miles from Elsinore, and also much frequented by Oopen- hageners, more especially on account of there being piers for the steamers to land at. The steamer then touches at Humlebsek, Snekkersten, Helsingor, and stops at Helsingborg, in Sweden. (We leave at Helsingor.) The town of Elsinore lays claim to high antiquity, for here the Sound dues were levied by the Danish kings from the earliest historic times. Denmark held the only key that opened a water- way to the Baltic for the nations of south-western Europe. She lost her golden ^^g and sunk to her present position in 1857, when compelled by the other maritime nations to accept one hundred and fifty-three million rigsdaler (nearly seventeen million pounds), in compensation for taxes on trading-vessels. Since then the Swedish land batteries have answered the Danish guns of Kronborg from across the waters of that narrow strait, till it has lost even the sem- blance of strength, and is nothing more than a small, inactive seaport. Yet Elsinore is well worth a visit. No artist could wish for a better subject than this weird, old shadow of a town, the sepulchre of a forgotten dynasty^ 186 . THE ENVIRONS. TRAINS TO ELSINORE. Eight Danish miles by the Seal and Northern Rail- way. Two hours' journey. Cost — 3 kr., 2 kr., and 1 kr. 50 ore. Five trains run during the day. Travellers with direct ticket to Helsingborg (cost, 4 kr. 10, 3 kr. 10, and 2 kr. 40) are, at Elsinore, driven to the port in a special carriage. STEAMERS. One or two times a- day to Elsinore, in two and a-half hours, for 1 kr. 50 ore, 1 kr. To Helsingborg, in three hours, for 2 kr., 1 kr. 50 5re. Depart from Copenhagen at the corner of Havnegade and Charlottenborg. On Sundays, usually pleasure-trips (Lystture), at reduced prices, to and fro in a day. Hotel (Eresund, near the station ; Hotel Nord, not far from the landing for steamers. KRONBORG. Five minutes walk from the steamer-landing. But the charmingly picturesque exterior of Kronborg is seen to the greatest advantage from the sea, with its fine lighthouse and three hundred and sixty-five spires, emblematic of the days of the year. It is on the Flag-battery (Flag-batteriet), where the Dannebrog is waving, that Shakespeare, in his " Hamlet,'' makes the ghost of the Danish king wander past the guards. The Castle was built by Frederik II. between 1574 and 1585, to command the entrance to the Sound, whilst Denmark yet controlled both shores. THE ENVIROJS/S, 187 It was here that the same king received the Order of the Garter at the hands of Lord Willoughby (see Rosenborg Castle for particulars). In the innermost court stands the fortress church, and the wing designed for the use of the royal family. Here Caroline Matilda was confined after the court revolu- tion. No other royalty has ever occupied the apartments. Amongst the paintings that adorn the castle is a por- trait of Ruben's daughter by the great master himself. There is also one, by Abildgaard, of Hamlet, the immortal Dane. As" an actor, the triumph of Shakespeare's per- formance is said to have been the ghost in his own '' Hamlet." Kronborg is also the scene of many Danish legends. Deep in the vaults below rests the guardian spirit of Denmark — "Holger Danske " (the Dane), well known from H. C. Andersen's fairy tales. HOLGER DANSKE (CHARLES THE GREAT's PALADIN OLGAR) ** Wrapt in slumber, awaiting the hour when the Fatherland shall stand in the sorest need of his strong arm." An old Saga, which bears his name, tells, in a racy Danish vernacular, of a peasant who went into the dungeons, and lighted upon an oaken door, fastened by a huge bar of iron ; he withdrew the bar, and straightway the door swung open, and there came forth a mighty voice, saying, **Is it time?" Sore dismayed was the peasant, yet he stood fast and 188 THE ENVIRONS, peered into the darkness to see what this might be, and then he was aware of a man in rusty mail, lying upon the floor — larger by far than all the men of that day — with a white beard that reached to his girdle, and a blood-rusted sword across his lap. Once more he lifted up his voice and asked, ** Is it time % " But the hind he bethought himself, and answered, "Not yet!" ** Then give me thy hand," said the giant. But the peasant knew well that in that grasp his hand would fare as corn beneath the flail ; wherefore, instead thereof, he held out the bar of the door. Holger Danske — for it was he — gave it a grasp that left the print of all fingers thereon, as though the iron had been soft clay, and, with a grim smile, he cried, **Ha ! I see there are still men in Denmark ; ] may rest yet awhile ! " and with that, he laid himseli down to sleep once more. There he sleepeth, and shall sleep, till Denmark be in the sorest need, and help there is none ; then comes he forth once more to victory and to vengeance ! Poor Denmark ! sharp troubles must be coming on her if those through which she has already passed have failed to break the hero's sleep. The office of the castellan (slotsforvalter) is at the entrance to the inner palace-yard. Admission-monej to the picture gallery and tower, 30 ore ; to the chapel, 20 ore. KURHUS (Restaurant), One English mile from Kronborg, situated in a beauti- ful plantation that forms a snug retreat for either THE ENVIRONS. 189 painter or poet, and the abundance of migratory singing-birds lend a still greater charm to the Danish woods, so filling the air with their melody, that it is well they are mute when the stars come out — ** For not an eyelid could to sleep incline, Wert thou among them, singing as they shine." The view from the elevation behind the restaurant is splendid, and here is Hamlefs Grave (Grav), or clap-trap, as the Danes style it. Entrance, 35 ore. A well-heaped cairn marks the spot. ** At his head a grass-green turf, At his heels a stone." The erection of this monument may be accepted as a tribute of grateful admiration of the genius of our Shakespeare, who has created for the Danes an immortal Prince of Denmark unknown in Danish history, which does no more than record the name of an '' Amlodi," among the semi-mythic princes of Jutland. Half-way down the embankment is another clap-trap, sacred to the memory of Hamlet's poor mad love, Ophelia. THE CASTLE ,0F PLEASURE, Given by Frederik VII. for an invalid's hotel, which was bought again, and made into a fashionable bathing-place. The establishment of Badehotel is in the hands of a company, who take every possible pains to make it attractive. The season commences on the 15th of June, and lasts until the end of September. 190 ADDEADA. In the year 1884 this hotel was visited by over 700 persons. It is here that the aristocracy from England, Germany, and Sweden collect, whilst Klampenborg and Skodsborg are mostly visited by the rich merchant people. Stay a few days, if possible ; otherwise we must hurry back to town and dine, for "time and tide for no man bide," nor yet do steamers, as a rule. ADDENDA. HELLEBAK. Yery interesting is a walk along the woody shore to Hellebak, a favourite watering-place. On the way is passed Adalsgaard, which is situated in a most romantic district. From here we have a splendid view of Sweden and the Kattegat. At Hellebak the Tegelstrup woods reach their most northerly limits, but even here the trees attain a great size, and the little lakes which are inter- spersed through the densest part of the woods make this district nearly as beautiful as its southern neighbour, Gurre, in which popular imagination long saw the last of the famous Valdemar, with fire- snorting horse and fleet hounds, expiating in wild midnight rides the impious words in which he had declared that, " if he could hunt for ever in the woods of his beloved Gurre^ God might keep the Kingdom of Heaven ! " ADDENDA, 191 HELSINGBOHG. Steamboat from Elsinore to Helsingborg four times a-day, in twenty minutes, for 90 or 60 ore. Hotel Continental is new, with every comfort, and stands opposite the station. Helsingborg is an old town, with 14,900 inhabitants, and contains remains of the fortress of Karnan, a ruin of seven flats, from which is obtained a splendid view of the Danish coast and the surroundings of the town. Key to be had from the Vaktmastare, 46 Langvinkelsgata. We pass the battle-field where Marshal Stenbock defeated the Danes in 1710, and arrive at Hoganas, where we must try and find time to visit a coal-pit more than a hundred years old. THE CASTLE SOPHIERO, The favourite residence of the Swedish royal family, stands about a mile from the town ; but very little of it can be seen from the road, on account of the dense foliage. After passing this we come to a red brick building, the Palace of KuUagunarstorp, belonging to Count Wachtmeister. It has a splendid view, extending over land and sea. We reach at last the Mountain of KuUen. This rugged mountain, set off by the foaming sea, leaves an imposing impression on our minds, on account of its nakedness, and barren vegetation, as well as its great height, rising as it does from the waters of the Kattegat, about 600 feet. On the summit the lighthouse rears its stately form — 192 ADDENDA, " Holding its lantern o'er the restless surge, The night-o'ertaken mariner to save." About ten minutes by rail from Helsingborg brings us to the fashionable bathing establishment of Ramlosa (Hotel and Restaurant), which is renowned for its rich steel springs and baths. It is best to make the tour to Kullen from Helsingborg, Hogana's railway, or the Helsingborg Hessleholm railway, as far as Kattarp, and from there to Hoganas. MALMO. Steamers leave Copenhagen about four times a-day, but refer to the remembrance lists of the newspapers for trustworthy information. It is a delightful sail — the Sound, so shallow, that on a clear day you can see to the bottom nearly all the way, with its wonderfully plentiful growth of seaweed, that I had no idea existed anywhere. MALMO HOTEL KRAMER (near the market). Malmo is built on the wildest part of the Sound, nearly opposite Copenhagen, on level ground, and has a good harbour, protected by the fortress of Malmohuus. The] inhabitants carry on an active commerce in corn, cloth, stockings, hats, gloves, carpets, soap, etc., -etc. Malmo has also a citadel and port, consisting of an inner harbour and an outer roadstead. ADDENDA. 193 From Malmo tlie traveller takes train to Stock- holm. Hotel Grand near the Quay ; Hotel Rydberg and Gustav Adolf Torg (Market). I cannot close this tour of pen and ink without ask- ing the traveller to make the journey to Christiania by the sea. The run does not take twenty-four hours, coasting all the way, past such grandly wild scenery that reminds me of nothing so much as the journeys I have made to that dainty place, Oban in the High- lands ; and Christiania is really like Oban on a larger scale, and possesses a street more resembling Princes Street in Edinburgh than any other I have seen. It is named after Bernadotte, Carl Johans Gade. Hotel Grand, Enevoldsplads. Hotel Victoria, Raadhus Gade, This hotel I can thoroughly recommend from personal experience, and no one need fear being imposed upon by Norwegians, for their honesty is as proverbial as their sobriety. A very cheap illustrated Guide tO Norway can be obtained in that country from Tonsberg Christiania, edited by Chr. Tonsberg. Baedeker's well-known guide. No one should visit Norway and Sweden without first procuring a copy of this admirable work. 13 VOCABULARY. The ' Iable. Please to give me. Giv mig. Breakfast. Frokost. Dinner. Middagsmad. Tea. The. Supper. Bacon. Aftensmad. Flsesk. Beer (Ale). Bread. Brod. Butter. Smdr. Cake. Kage. Cheese. Ost. Chicken. Chocolate. Kylling. Chocolade. Coffee. Kaffe. Cream. Flode. Duck. And. An Egg. A Fork. Et MgA En Gaffel. Glass. Glas. Ham. Skinke. Knife. Kniv. Milk. Mselk. Mustard. Napkin. A Plate. Sennep. Serviet. En Tallerken * (E, or o, means o-e, but is written in one, and pronounced like "i" in our word "first." t iE, a or 86 pronounced like **a" in '*fate." VOCABULARY. 195 A Radish. En Radise Salad. Salat. Salt. Salt. Sugar. Sukkor. Spoon. Skee. Vinegar. Eddike. Water. Vand. Wine. Vin. Soups. Ox-tail Soup. Broth, or Gravy Soup. Oxehalesuppe. Bouillon. Fish (Fisk). Lobster. Hummer. Salmon. Lax. Sole. Tunge. Loins. Mutton Chop. Lammecarbonad e. Veal Cutlets. Kalvecotelet. Beefsteaks. Sirloin of Beef. Boeufsteg (or Bofsteg). Morbrad. Roast Beef. Oxesteg. Roast Mutton. Bedesteg. Roast Pork. Roast Veal. Flseskesteg. Kalvesteg. Roast Lamb. Lammesteg. Smoked Ham, with Roget Skinke med Potatoes. Kartofler. Boiled Veal and Ham. Kogt Kalvekjod og Skinke. Boiled Beef Boiled Mutton Kogt Oxekjod. Kogt Bedekjod. Vegetables (Gemyse). Potatoes, boiled or Kartofler, kogte eller fried. ristede. 196 VOCABULARY. Cabbage. Cauliflower. Kaal. Blomkaal. Peas. ^rter. Spinage. Carrots. Spinat. Gulerodder. Turnips. Hvide Roer. Sweets (Syltetoj), etc. Gooseberries. Stikkelsbser. Compote of Prunes. Cheese. Syltede Blommer. Ost. Bread. Brod. Butter. Smor. A Cigar. En Cigar. A Match. En Svovlstik. Waiter. Gratuity. Opvarter. Drikkepenge. Im 'M. Bath Room. Badevserelse. A Brush. En Borste. Hair Brush, Clothes Brush. En Haarb., en Klsedeb Bell. Klokke. Boots. Stovler. Blanket. A Candle. Uldteeppe. Et Lys. Chamber-maid. Kammerjomfru. Coat. Frakke. Comb. Kam. Gloves. Handsker. Hat-box. Hatte-^ske. Hair-pins. Haarnaale. Hair-dresser. Friseur. Mirror. Night Stool. Spejl. Nat-Stol. Pillow. Hovedpude. VOCABULARY. 197 Pins. Portmanteau. Knappenaale Kuflf'ert. Scissors. Sax. Shoes. Sko. A Sheet. Et Lagen. Soap. Towel. Ssebe. Haandklsede. Travelling Rug. Umbrella. Watch Reisetaeppe. Paraply. Uhr. Water. Vand. Water Closet. Retirade. Washing. Vask. Writing Paper, etc. Skrivepapir. Phrases in Danish. " Please, brush my boots, shoes." " I want the barber." Good-day, sir ! ** Please sir, tell me the nearest way to the Exhibition 1 " ^' What is the fare?" " That is too much ! " I don't understand you, sir! "Speak a little slower." "Yser saa god at pudse mine Stovler, Sko." ** Jeg onsker Barberen." ** Goddag, min Herre ! " " Vser saa god at sige mig den naermeste Yei til Udstillingen 1 " " Hvor meget koster det ?" " Det er for meget ! " " JegforstaaerDera ikke!" *' Tal lidt lanorsommere ! " Laundry. Cuffs. Collars. Chemise. Cravat. Drawers. Handkerchief. Ni;^ht Dress. Manchetter. K raver. Chemise. Halstorklsede. Underbenklseder. Lommetorklsede. Natkjole. 198 VOCABULARY. Petticoat. Stockings. Socks. Skjort. Stromper. Sokker. Shirt. Trousers. Skjorte. Benklgeder. Waistcoat. Vest. Days of the Week. Sunday. Monday. Tuesday. Wednesday. Thursday. Friday. Saturday. Sondag. Mandag. Tirsdag. Onsdag. Torsdag. Fredag. Lordag. The Months. January. February. March. Januar. Februar. Marts. April. May. June. April Maj. Juni. July. August. September. October. Juli. August. September. Oktober. November. November. December. December. One. En. Two. To. Three. Tre. Four. Fire. Five. Fem. Six. Sex. Seven. Syv. VOCABULARY. Eight. Otte. Nine. Ni. Ten. Ti. Eleven. Elleve. Twelve. Tolv. Thirteen. Tretten. Fourteen. Fj Often. Twenty. Tyve. Thirty. Tredive. Forty. Fyrre Fifty. Halvtreds. Sixty. Treds. Seventy. Halvfjerds Eighty. Firs. Ninety. Halvfems. Hundred. Hundrede. 199 Printed by Walter ScOTT, Felling, Newcastle- on-Tyne. ll, HENRY WALKER & SON, NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE. Splendid Stock of Marble and Wood Chimaey-pieces ; Tile Grates ; Hall and Ship Stoves ; Mosaic, Marble, and Tile Hearths and Flooring ; all kinds of Furnishing Ironmongery for Houses and Ships. Moderate Prices. Special Terms for Cash. THE COUNTY IRONMONGERY SHOW-ROOMS, (Adjoining the County Hotel). HEATING AND DOMESTIC ENGINEERS, Sanitary Plumbers, Ironfonnders, and Range Makers, GALLOWGATE IRON WORKS. 4 Medals awarded at recent Exhibition. HENRY ANGUS & CO., COACH AND HARNESS MAKERS, 2si E-vsra j^sTXjiE-on^-TirisrE. ESTABLISHED 1780. A large number of Best Two and Four- Wheeled Carriages of their own make always in Stock. HOTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest class of English and American travellers, affords first-ratie accommoda- tion for Families and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal Palace, overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table d'Hdte. Private Dinners. Beat Attendance. Reading Room, Ladies' Saloon. Hot Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and American newspapers. All languages spoken. Very Moierate Charges. The only Vienna Coffee-House. R. KLUM, Proprietor. TEETH AT ALL PRICES. Mr. D. POWELL, SURGEON DENTIST, 2 NUN STREET (Corner of Clayton Street), Ma}f be personally Consulted every Week Day ^ from 11 a,m, until 4 p, m, CONSULTATION FREE. IMPORTANT ADVICE.— Before seeking the aid of the Dental Profession, ask the people where to go, and have the recommendation of the many — they are the best judge. Don't go by one or two persons, or paid agents ; have the advice and experience of at least a dozen individuals. If you act according to the above advice y ou might save yourself endless pain and disappointment. OBSERVE LARGE BLUE LAMP And see that you get into the RIGHT DOOR. OVER 20 YEARS AT THE SAME ADDRESS. STABLE FITTINGS, '°^oo%^^i>^BT S- With special improvements, designed and made under our personal supervision. MANGERS. HAYRACKS. VENTILATION OF STABLES PLANNED AND CARRIED OUT. DINNING & COOKE, MOT WATER AND SANITAFY ENGIJ