WESSOR C,A, KOFOID _d*j|yfl^v PITCAIKN : THE ISLAND, THE PEOPLE, AND THE PASTOE. TO WHICH IS ADDED A SHOUT NOTICE OF THE ORIGINAL SETTLEMENT AND PRESENT CONDITION OF NORFOLK ISLAND. BY THE LATE REV. THOS. BOYLES MURRAY, M.A. F.S.A. \,v RECTOR OF ST. DUNSTAN-IN-THE-EAST, LONDON, AND PREBENDARY OF ST. PAUL'S. PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION APPOINTED BY THE SOCD3TY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. LONDON : SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING- CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. SOLD AT THE DEPOSITORIES : 77 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S-INN FIELDS; 4 ROYAL EXCHANGE ; 48 PICCADILLY ; AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS New York: Pott, Young, & Co. GIFT OF ESSoa C.A, KOFOID FEINTED For the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge AT THE CLAKEKDO.N PRESS, OXFORD. CONTENTS. PAGE PREFACE t ...... 8 , v CHAPTER I. THE BOUNTY THE OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE TO OTAIIEITE BREAD- FRUIT ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE DEATH OF THE SURGEON DELAY AT OTAHEITE ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY TINAH AND I DDE AH DESERTION AND ROBBERY BY THREE SEA- MEN OF THE BOUNTY FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE HUAHEINE, WYTOOTACKEE, AND ANNAMOOKA ARRIVAL OFF TOFOA MUTINY IN THE SHIP LIST OF MEN LEFT IN THE BOUNTY LIST OF MEN IN THE LAUNCH . . , f . 15 CHAPTER II. SCENE ON THE ISLAND OF TOFOA MURDER OF JOHN NORTON SUFFERINGS OF BLIGH AND HIS CREW FEEJEE ISLANDS CANNI- BALISM BLIGH'S LOG-BOOK MISERABLE ALLOWANCE PRAYERS IN THE LAUNCH ENDEAVOUR STRAITS TIMOR ARRIVAL AT COUPANG BLIGH'S RETURN TO ENGLAND MEMOIR OF BLIGH 36 CHAPTER III. LEGAL PROCEEDINGS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE MUTINY TOUBOUI CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON WRECK OF THE PANDORA PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY LETTERS FROM KESSY HEYWOOD AND OTHERS TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS THE KING'S PARDON HONOURABLE CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOD HIS DEATH LINES BY ONE OF HIS CREW 69 CHAPTER IV. CHRISTIAN AND HIS PARTY PITCAIRN'S ISLAND FOLGER's AC- COUNT LANDING OF NINE MUTINEERS AND OF OTAHEITANS AT PITCAIRN DREADFUL DEATHS OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS IN- TOLERABLE STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN INTEMPERANCE JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS HIS REPENTANCE AND REFORMATION HIS SERVICES IN THE CAUSE OF RELIGION AND MORALITY IN THE ISLAND . 103 11 CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. THE CHRONOMETER OF THE BOUNTY DESCRIPTION OF THE STATK OF PITCAIRN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT YEARS ACCOUNT GIVEN BY SIR THOMAS STAINES BY ADMIRAL BEECHEY EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE IN 1831 QUEEN POMARE HER LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA 125 CHAPTER VI. RETURN OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN 1833 POPULATION OF PITCAIRN THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR RULES AND CUSTOMS THE ISLANDERS* DAY AT PITCAIRN RECEPTION OF VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS MR. CARLETON'S MUSICAL CLASS 1.45 CHAPTER VH. MR. NOBBS SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE HIS ESCAPE FROM THE HANDS OF THE PIRATICAL SOLDIER, BENEVIDEIS HIS ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN MR. HILL EXTRACTS FROM HIS LETTER TESTI- MONIES TO THE CHARACTER AND SERVICES OF MR. NOBBS PRO- GRESS OF RELIGION IN PITCAIRN*S ISLAND REUBEN NOBBS TES- TIMONIES FROM THE REV. WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS STATE OF THE SCHOOL . . 1?0 CHAPTER VIII. INVITATION OF THE FEMALES OF PITCAIRN TO ADMIRAL MORESBY VISIT OF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND HIS LETTERS, AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN THE ISLANDERS IN 1852 MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO MR. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS ORDINATION AS DEACON AND PRIEST . . 203 CHAPTER IX. THE REV. G. H. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE ALBERT MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOMEWARD BY NAVY BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA THE LATE BISHOP OF SYDNEY MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO EFFORTS IN ENGLAND FOR THE ISLANDERS INTELLIGENCE FROM PITCAIRN THE FIRST COMMU- NION ON THE ISLAND MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN PIT- CAIRN IN 1853 AID RENDERED TO THE ISLANDERS . . 210. CONTENTS. Hi CHAPTER X. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LAWS OF PITCAIRN THE ISLAND REGISTER REUBEN AND FRANCIS NOBBS REUBEN'S LETTER TO ADMIRAL MORESBY REUBEN'S LAST ILLNESS HIS DEATH .... 252 CHAPTER XL EXAMPLE OF REUBEN NOBBS SHADOWS OF COMING EVENTS THE LATE B. TOUP NICOLAS, ESQ., CONSUL AT RAIATEA HIS JOURNAL OF A WEEK AT PITCAIRN IN ] 853 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS LETTER FROM MRS. NOBBS CAPTAIN DENHAM's SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND CAPTAIN FREMANTLE*S VISIT TO PITCAIRN HURRICANE ON THE PACIFIC EXPECTATIONS OF A REMOVAL TO NORFOLK ISLAND 289 CHAPTER XII. SERMONS PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS ON PITCAIRN*S ISLAND THE HARP OF PITCAIRN EVENING HYMN THE ANGELS* LAMENT I BELIEVE, I BELIEVE FENUA MAITAI NATIONAL SONG SONG OF THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS THE CORALLINE ISLES LIST OF SHIPS SIGNALS PITCAIRN A WILDERNESS 325 CHAPTER XIII. DEPARTURE OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY FROM PITCAIRN TO NORFOLK ISLAND NORFOLK ISLAND, ITS ORIGINAL SETTLEMENT, AND SUBSEQUENT OCCUPATION VISIT OF BISHOP BROUGHTON CAPTAIN DENHAM'S DESPATCH LETTERS FROM ARTHUR QUINTAL AND REV. G. H. NOBBS SIR WM. DENISON'S COMMUNICATION EXPENSE OF REMOVAL ACCOUNTS FROM HOBART TOWN . 362 CHAPTER XIV. LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS RESPECTING THE VOYAGE TO NORFOLK ISLAND, AND SETTLEMENT OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY THERE THE BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND CONFIRMATION ADDRESS TO HER MAJESTY FROM THE PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE VISIT OF SIR WM.DENISON PRESENT STATE OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR PROSPECTS CENSUS CONCLUSION 381 ILLUSTRATIONS. PORTRAIT OF JOHN ADAMS To face Title THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE . p. 16 THE BREAD-FRUIT 20 PORTRAIT or CAPTAIN BLIGII 36 BLIGH'S GOURD, CUP, BULLET WEIGHT, &c. ..... 44 TOMB OF ADMIRAL BLIGH 68 BOUNTY BAY, AND VILLAGE OF PITCAIRN 104 CORAL ISLAND 115 PORTRAIT OF THURSDAY OCTOBER CHRISTIAN 128 JOHN ADAMS'S HOUSE 134 PORTRAIT OF THE KEY. G. H. KOBBS 170 CHURCH AND SCHOOL HOUSE 200 CHART OF PORTION OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC .... 221 GRAVE OF JOHN ADAMS 261 ISLAND or JUAN FERNANDEZ 324 FAC-SIMILE OF JOHN ADAMS'S HANDWRITING 333 LOOK-OUT RIDGE, PITCAIRN 354 VIEW ON NORFOLK ISLAND 384 PBEEACE TO THE TWELFTH EDITION. THE first Edition of " Pitcairn ; the Island, the People, and the Pastor/' appeared in the spring of 1853. Between that date and the present, about thirty thousand copies have been printed. The subject was one of a kind at once to command a large circulation of the work : and circumstances have continued to arise, in con- nexion with the Island, which have greatly tended to sustain the interest felt in the place and its inhabitants. The arrival of their Pastor in England, his admission, whilst here, to holy orders, and his interview with the Queen and the Prince Con- sort, were pleasing and important occurrences, when viewed in reference to the original history of Pitcairn. Still more eventful days, however, were in store for the people. The provision made by the British Government for their transfer to Norfolk Island, and the further measures recently adopted for their benefit by VI PREFACE. Sir William Denison, the governor, have brought to our minds the progress and prospects of this remarkable community in a striking manner. The following letter, addressed to the author of this work by his friend, Vice-Admiral Sir Fairfax Moresby, K.C.B., late Commander-in- Chief of Her Majesty's Naval Forces in the Southern Pacific, will explain the occasion of Mr. Nobbs's visit to England in the autumn of 1852 :- " VALPARAISO, August, 1852. " This will be conveyed to you by Mr. Nobbs, the Pastor of Pitcairn's Island. It was not until after our departure from thence, that I found he had received a letter from you, dated the 29th of November, 1850, which, I confess, has relieved me of much anxiety on the responsibility I have taken upon myself of sending Mr. Nobbs to England. " I can most conscientiously assure you, that the state of society at Pitcairn has not been too highly described. The Bible and Prayer-book of the Bounty, as handed to Mr. Nobbs from John Adams, have been, and continue to be, the objects of their study, and have enabled them to withstand the innovations that too fervid PREFACE. Vll imaginations, in America and elsewhere, have thought, by their correspondence, it was their calling to effect. " The affectionate attachment of the islanders to Mr. Nobbs (who, in the triple capacity of pastor, surgeon, and teacher, is as necessary to them as their food) created some little difficulty in his leaving; but it was overcome by the arrangement made for leaving with them our chaplain, Mr. Holman, and by my assurance that I would return their pastor to them with as little delay as possible. I hope I am not wrong in supposing that if Mr, Nobbs is found worthy of being ordained, only a short time will be required to prepare. " I think I did not mention to the Bishop of London the way in which Mr. Nobbs reached Pitcairn. It disproves the malignant stories which have been circulated. And the success of twenty-four years' labour is an abundant proof, that, under the blessing of God, he has educated in the principles of our Church, as one united family, a community whose simple and virtuous lives are so pre-eminent. " In 1826 he left England for the purpose of going to Pitcairn. For nearly two years, by VU1 PREFACE. the way of the Cape of Good Hope, India, and Australia, he sought a passage. Finally, at Callao, in Peru, he met the owner of a launch, who, on the condition of Mr. Nobbs's fitting her out, agreed to accompany him to Pitcairn. Mr. Nobbs fitted her himself, and expended what little money he possessed. The owner was in ill-health : nevertheless these two left Callao by themselves, on a voyage of 3,500 miles, which they accomplished in forty-two days. The owner died soon after their arrival. The launch was hauled on shore, and her materials used to build a house for Mr. Nobbs. "I was four days on shore at Pitcairn, in constant discourse with the islanders. I am convinced that the time and the opportunity have arrived for giving them a minister of our Church ; and that Mr. Nobbs is the person they wish, and the person at present best adapted for them. 1 '' Amidst all the attentions which Mr. Nobbs received during his short sojourn in England, the thought of his flock at Pitcairn was evi- dently uppermost in his mind. Those who felt an interest in him, having heard of the virtuous PREFACE. Ix habits and happy lives of the people, were less surprised at his wish to return to them as soon as his errand should be accomplished. The particulars of his return will be found stated in the body of this work. His life and conversation among the islanders, since his appointment as their Chaplain, and a Missionary of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, are sufficiently shown in the following extract of a letter from a leading member of the community, who was the chief magistrate of Pitcaim in 1854. This worthy and intelligent person is a grandson of the original John Adams. "PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, Oct. 1854. " Had it not been for the many valuable lessons we have learned, from the liberal supply of books which we from time to time have received from the Society to which you have the honour to belong, 1 doubt if the present state of education now existing among us would have been attained. You will doubtless be rejoiced to learn, that your Society has been the means of diffusing much Christian Knowledge among us, and that we are not insensible of the immense debt of love and gratitude we owe you. X PREFACE. " The ordination of our Teacher is a blessing which we highly appreciate; and it will, with the blessing of Almighty God, be productive of much good. " Divine Service is performed every Wednes- day evening ; and we partake of the Holy Sacra- ment of the Lord's Supper on the first Sunday of each month ; privileges for which we cannot be too thankful. " You will doubtless be glad to learn that the Rev. G. H. Nobbs has, since his ordination, acted in a manner highly honourable to his high calling and profession. His whole aim seems to be directed to one object, that of doing good to his flock, both in spiritual and temporal things. " Please to accept of my kindest love and regards ; and believe me to be, " Yours ever gratefully, " JOHN ADAMS. "To tfie REV. T. B. MURRAY, M.A." The mention of the name of John Adams reminds us of the origin of the settlement at Pitcairn's Island. Without further anticipa- ting, therefore, the eventful history which is connected with the place, and which proves that PREFACE. xi real life may be more romantic than fiction, the author will make it his business to give an account of the island, and of the troublous iimes which preceded the pure and peaceable condition of its inhabitants. For some years the population of the island had gone on increasing at an advanced ratio, whilst the ground available for produce had occasionally shown symptoms of failure in the supply of the requisite articles of food. Under the pressure of a certain amount of want and apprehension, the inhabitants, in May, 1853, unanimously solicited the aid of the British Government, in transferring them to a more roomy place; and they themselves suggested Norfolk Island as a desirable spot for their future residence. That beautiful island, which has been sometimes called the garden of the world, has ceased to be a penal settlement ; and there are no other settlers. The Government determined, in the year 1853, to provide for the transfer of the inha- bitants of Pitcairn, or of as many of them as might consent, to Norfolk Island. The execu- tion of the measure was confided to Sir William Denison, the Gfovernor of New South Xii PREFACE. Wales, who, as Lieutenant-Govern or of Van Diemen's Land, had Norfolk Island for several years under his superintendence. It would not be just to omit to mention the forethought, discrimination, and zeal manifested by His Ex- cellency in making the requisite arrangements for the task. The plans of the Government were not matured until the spring of 1856. The vessel engaged for carrying the transfer into effect, was the Morayshire, chartered at Sydney. During the whole of the passage, which commenced on May 3, 1856, the real interests and per- sonal comforts of the people, young and old, of both sexes, were consulted in the most tender and scrupulous manner in all respects. Acting Lieutenant G. W, Gregorie, of the Juno, per- formed his part of Superintendent of this service in a manner which amply justified the choice of so competent and humane an officer. In the removal of 194 persons in an emigrant ship, on a voyage of upwards of three thousand miles, occupying thirty-five days, it does not appear too much to say, that no one could have desired a better kind of treatment for members of his own family* PREFACE. Xlll The conduct of the Eev. G. H. Nobbs throughout the whole of this transaction, con- firmed the feelings of confidence and esteem which he had earned by more than a quarter of a century's faithful and efficient service amongst his charge at Pitcairn. He not only attended to the religious wants of the voyagers^but all the medical duties likewise devolved upon him. These were of no light nor ordinary kind ; so severely did many suffer from continued sea- sickness. All were landed securely at their new abode, on the 8th of June, 1856 ; a grand result, which was much facilitated by Captain Denham, E.N., and the officers and men of H.M. Surveying ship Herald; that vessel having been con- siderately detained some days by Captain Denham on the spot, for the purpose of giving assistance. The first act of the Community, on assem- bling after the landing, was to offer a devout Thanksgiving to God, for their prosperous voyage, and for His many mercies. Sir Wm. Denison has written to the author, saying, that henceforward the Islanders will not require any charitable assistance. " They are XIV PREFACE, now/* said he, " occupants of a most fertile island, with stock of all kinds, with tools and appliances for all their immediate wants." His" Excellency stated his intention of exercising a careful supervision over the people who may be permitted to land and reside among the new inhabitants. He has since fulfilled a promise which he had made, of becoming personally acquainted with them. It will be seen in the latter pages of the present Edition, that he availed himself of the occasion to afford them good counsel and advice ; and it may be hoped that a visit so kind and so paternal will have proved of much benefit as well as comfort to the flock oa Norfolk Island. Although the presence of England's worst exiles for several years gave a bad name to that beautiful place, there is no reason why it should not now become associated in the mind with whatsoever things are true, honest, just, pure, lovely, and of good report. LONDON, July, 1860. PITCAIRN, CHAPTER I. TH3 BOUNTY THE OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE TO OTAHEITE BREAD-FRUIT ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE DEATH OF THE SURGEON DELAY AT OTAHEITE ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY T1NAH AND IDDEAH DESERTION AND ROBBERY BY THREE SEAMEN OF THE BOUNTY FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE HUAHEINE, WYTOOTACKEE, AND ANNAMOOKA ARRIVAL OFF TOFOA MUTINY IN THE SHIP LIST OF MEN LEFT IN THE BOUNTY LIST OF MEN IN THE LAUNCH. IN the year 1787, in the reign of King George the Third, his Majesty's armed ship, Bounty, was fitted out by the English government, for the purpose of proceeding to the South Sea Islands for plants of the "bread-fruit tree, which afforded to the inhabitants of those islands, and of Otaheite especially, the greater portion of their food. This step was taken in consequence of representations made to the King, by mer- chants and planters interested in his Majesty's West Indian possessions. Lieutenant William Bligh, to whom the com- mand of the vessel had been given, was then about thirty-three years of age. He had been sailing-master under Captain Cook, having been for four years with that great navigator in the Resolution. He was appointed in August, 1787, both commander and purser of the Bounty, which 16 BREAD-FRUIT. was stored and victualled for eighteen months. Besides other provision, he had supplies of port- able soup, essence of meat, sour krout, and dried malt ; to which were added articles of iron and steel, trinkets, beads, and looking-glasses, for traffic with the natives. The plants, the best he could obtain, he was to convey to the West Indies, to attempt their growth for the sup- port of the slave population; it having been the opinion of Sir Joseph Banks, who had visited Otaheite with Captain Cook in 1769, that the bread-fruit tree might be successfully cultivated in those colonies. The ship was fitted out in dock at Deptford under Bligh's superintendence. The great cabin was devoted to the preservation of the plants. A false floor, cut full of holes, contained the garden- pots, in which the plants were to be placed. The bread-fruit grows on a tree of about the size of a common oak, which, towards the top, divides into large and spreading branches. The leaves are of a very deep green. The bread- fruit springs from twigs to the size of a penny loaf. It has a thick rind ; and before becoming ripe, it is gathered, and baked in an oven. The inner part is like the crumb of wheaten bread, and found to be very nutritive. Captain William Dampier,* who sailed round the world in the year 1688, thus described the bread-fruit : " It * Dampier was an old English navigator, born in 1652. His name is associated with that of the famous Alexander Selkirk, who sailed in company with him. Selkirk's won- derful adventures suggested to De Foe the idea of hi inimit- able Robinson Crusoe, and to Cowper the beautiful verses beginning, "I am monarch of all I survey." THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE. THE BREADTREE, which, without the ploughshare, yields The unreap'd harvest of unfurrow'd fields, And bakes its unadulterated loaves Without a furnace, in unpurchased groves, And flings off famine from its fertile breast, A priceless market for the gathering guest. THE VOYAGE. 17 has neither seed nor stone in the inside ; but all is of pure substance like bread. It must be eaten new ; for if it is kept above twenty- four hours, it grows harsh and choky; but it is very pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit lasts in season eight months in the year, during which the natives of Guam eat no other sort of food of bread kind. I did never see of this fruit anywhere but here. The natives told us that there is plenty of this fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands ; and I did never hear of it anywhere else." The ship Bounty, of 215 tons burden, left Spithead on the 23rd of December, 1787, carrying forty-six persons, including the commander, and a botanist, and gardener. They started with a fresh breeze, easterly, which moderated on the 25th, so that they were able to keep their Christ- mas with cheerfulness; but it increased to such a heavy gale by the 27th, that the vessel suffered damage; a sea which she shipped having broken some of the planks of the boats, and an azimuth compass. It also wetted and injured a few bags of bread in the cabin, which, when, the weather improved, were got up and dried. The voyage was attended with many circumstances of diffi- culty and danger. The few hours of respite from the hard westerly winds that blew, were, accord- ing to a fine expression in Lord Anson's voyage, "like the elements drawing breath,, to return upon them with redoubled violence." During the voyage Bligh lost an able seaman, James Valentine. This man's case appears to ve been cruelly mismanaged by the surgeon, ., 18 ARRIVAL AT OTiHEITE. who was an indolent and intemperate man. Valentine had been one of the most robust people on board, but, for some slight indisposition, was bled in the arm. Some time afterwards, the arm became painful and inflamed. The inflammation increased ; a hollow cough and extreme diffi- culty of breathing came on, and the poor fellow's death soon put a period to his sufferings. The simple and unaffected manner in which Bligh relates the events of his voyage, and the difficulties through which he passed, is one of the chief charms of his narrative. The original instructions from the Admiralty, dated Novem- ber the 20th, 1787, were, that he should proceed round Cape Horn. They were very minute, and were signified to the Commissioners by Lord Sydney, one of his Majesty's principal Secretaries of State.* Owing, however, to the advanced season of the year, and the delay caused by contrary winds, he had applied for, and obtained, discretional orders to go round the Cape of Good Hope to Otaheite. Having tried in vain, in a tempestuous ocean, to go by Cape Horn, he took his course towards the island of Tristan d'Acunha, and at last made a passage round the Cape of Good Hope. Having visited Cape Town, and afterwards Van Diemen's Land, and passed near New Zealand, the ship at length arrived at Otaheite, anchoring in Mata- vai Bay at 10 in the forenoon of the 26th of October, 1788. * The city of Sydney, N. S. Wales, was named from this nobleman, the first Viscount Sydney, Thomas Townshend, Esq. He died A.D. 18CO. " RULES ON ARRIVING. 19 The voyagers, forty-five in number, were received with kindness by the natives, who asked particularly after Captain Cook, whom they called Toot: they also inquired about Sir Joseph Banks, and others who had visited them some years before. But their first inquiries of the voyagers were, whether they were Tyos, which signifies, friends, and whether they came from Pretanie (Britain), or from Lima. Having become satisfied on these two important points, they instantly covered the deck in such num- bers, that Bligh, moving about among the crowd, could scarcely find his own people. He had prepared and written down certain rules to be observed by all his men for facilitat- ing a trade for provisions, and establishing a good understanding with the natives. Amongst other regulations it was ordered, that at the Society of Friendly Islands no person whatever should intimate that Captain Cook had been killed by natives, or indeed that he was dead.* No one was to give the least hint that the party had come for the purpose of getting the bread- fruit plant, until Bligh should think proper to make known his plan to the chiefs. Every one was to study to gain the esteem and goodwill of the islanders. No one was ever to fire but in defence of his life. It was against the rules to purchase curiosities or provisions, except by .pplication to a duly-appointed purveyor. Immediately on anchoring, these orders, signed * Cook had been murdered by the natives of Owhyhee in February, 1779. The above order for the suppression of " uth, involving a kind of falsehood, may have encouraged in *me of the men deceit in other things. : 20 DEATH OF THE SUEGEON. by Bligh, and dated October 25, 1788, were stuck up on the main-mast. With respect to curiosities, it appears that none struck the sea- men so forcibly as roasted pigs and fine bread- fruits; and these came in abundance. In about six weeks after their arrival, the number of the party was reduced to forty-four, by the death of the surgeon, who could have been but of little use to them, as he had suffered from a long illness, the effect of his intemperance and indolence. During the whole course of the voyage he had scarcely ever stirred out of his cabin, and had never been prevailed upon to take half-a-dozen turns upon deck at a time. Bligh wished that the body should be buried on shore ; and the natives were not only ready to meet his wishes, but on the day following the surgeon's death, they were found digging the grave. Without any communication with the ship, these kind people had marked out the grave, east and west. Tinah, a friendly chief, asked Bligh if they were doing right, adding, " There the sun rises, and there it sets." It was thought that they had learned the practice of burying east and west from the Spaniards; a captain of a Spanish vessel having been buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Bligh, in his " Voyage to the South Seas," published a plan and section of the Bounty, showing the manner of fitting and stowing the pots for receiving the bread-fruit plants. Of these plants he had 1,105, carefully selected. He had also procured a number of other plants and choice fruits, which his friend, Sir Joseph THE BREAD-FRUIT. ENTERTAINMENTS TO THE NATIVES. 21 Banks, had recommended him to obtain. In- deed, the time and attention which he had bestowed on the main object of his undertaking may be mentioned as accounting in some de- gree for what might else appear to have been a needless delay at Otaheite. It is probable that he would have been spared much trouble and misery had he quitted Otaheite sooner ; but he had been induced, partly by the reason above given, and partly by the kind persuasions of the chiefs, to defer his departure. The events which were now impending over Bligh, contrast darkly with the scenes of cheer- fulness, and gaiety, and full success, which had hitherto marked his enterprise. On one occa- sion, (Nov. 13, 1788,) he had a large company to dine with him on board. Some of his Ota- heitan visitors had observed, that they always drank his Britannic Majesty's health as soon as the cloth was removed. " But, n says Bligh, in his own simple style, " they were become, by this time, so fond of wine, that they would fre- quently remind me of the health in the middle of dinner, by calling out, * King George, Earee no Pretanie ! ' (the chief of Britain,) and would banter me, if the glass was not filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of these people when they met on board." Among the company on all these occasions was the sociable chief, Tinah, of whom more will be said presently. He was fed at dinner by one of his attendants, who sat by him for that purpose; this being a custom among the superior chiefs. " I must do him the justice, 11 22 AMUSEMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY. said Bligh, " to say that he kept his attendant constantly employed. There was, indeed, little reason to complain of want of appetite in any of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat in presence of the men, his wife, Iddeah, dined with some of her companions about an hour afterwards, in private, except that her husband favoured them with his company, and seemed to have entirely forgotten that he had already dined! " The natives were, one day, much delighted with the spectacle of a female figure, which was gaily dressed up, and carried about the deck of the Bounty. This object they at first mistook for a living person ; but it consisted of a stick covered with a quantity of cloth, surmounted by a painted head, which had formerly been in a hairdresser's shop-window, having been brought by the ship's barber from London. Bligh's description of this scene is as good as a picture : " It having been reported to the natives that we had an English woman on board, the quarter-deck was cleared of the crowd, that she might make her appearance. Being handed up the ladder, and carried to the after part of the deck, there was a general shout of 'Huaheine no Pretanie myty ! ' Huaheine signifies woman, and myty, good. Many of them thought it was living, and asked if it was my wife. One old woman ran with presents of cloth and bread- fruit, and laid them at her feet. At last they found out the cheat, but continued all delighted with it, except the old lady, who felt herself mortified, and took back her presents, for which DESEKTION OF THEEE SEAMEN. 23 she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and all the other chiefs enjoyed the joke; and after making many inquiries about the British women, they strictly enjoined me, when I came again, to bring a ship full of them." The people had also formed a vast idea of the beauty of English ladies from the head of the ship in their harbour. This was a striking wood-carving of a large-featured female, the highly-coloured figure-head of the Bounty, which they greatly admired. During the interchange of friendly civilities and hospitable receptions, both on board the Bounty and on shore, some thefts were com- mitted by the natives, owing to the negligence of the Bounty's crew. Soon afterwards, Churchill, Muspratt, and Millward, three of the men be- longing to the ship, deserted, carrying with them the small cutter, a chest of fire-arms, and ammunition. They were quickly taken by Bligh, with the help of some of the natives, at a neigh- bouring island, Tettaha. These three deserters wrote a letter of humble acknowledgment to their captain, for his clemency in not bringing them to trial. They promised good conduct in future : but he was deceived by their fair profes- sions ; and they were soon afterwards mutineers of a more daring order. In their original de- sertion and robbery, they had been guilty of an atrocious crime ; and their case affords one, among many instances which might be quoted, of the danger of gassing over the first outbreak of a rebellious spirit. Like a fire, if not put out at once, it will be sure to spread. The deserters' 24 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING. letter to Bligh, which has been preserved, was dated on board the Bounty, at Otaheite, January 26th, 1789, and ran as follows : " SIR, We should think ourselves wholly inexcusable if we omitted taking the earliest opportunity of returning our' thanks for your goodness in delivering us from a trial by Court Martial, the fatal consequences of which are obvious : and although we cannot possibly lay claim to so great a favour, yet we humbly beg you will be pleased to remit any further punish- ment; and we trust our future conduct will fully demonstrate our deep sense of your clemency, and our steadfast resolution to behave better hereafter. We are, Sir, your most obedient and most humble servants, C. CHURCHILL, WM. MUSPRATT, JOHN MILLWARD." Three months had now rolled away, when, early in the morning of February the 6th, the captain discovered that the cable by which the ship rode had been cut close to the water's edge, so as to be very nearly divided. The offence was first charged upon some of the natives ; but it afterwards occurred to Bligh, that this scan- dalous attempt to cut the ship adrift was most probably made by some of his own people, who, if she had been driven on shore, might have succeeded in remaining at Otaheite. The reader will observe that the word Otaheite is here used as spelt by Captain Cook. It is now often printed, Tahiti. The time was at length come for Bligh and his companions, with heavy hearts, to bid farewell to charming Otaheite. The ship was crowded TINAH AND IDDEAH. 25 by the natives, many of whom .requested to be allowed to accompany the party. Cocoa-nuts, plantains, bread-.fruits, hogs, and goats, were then brought as presents. The chief, Tinah, who was six feet four inches high, and stout in pro- portion, though without the courage of a warrior, had begged hard to be allowed to leave the island in the Bounty, being sure that King George, whom he wished much to see, would be glad to see him, and his wife Iddeah. She also was much above the common size, and had learnt to load and fire a musket with much dexterity. Bligh was obliged to decline, as politely as he could, the honour of conveying this remarkable couple to England. On going away, he offered a pair of pistols to Tinah, who at once re- signed them into other hands, remarking that Iddeah, his wife, would fight with one, and his friend Oedidee, a chief, with the other. Poor Tinah, in transferring the pistols, expressed his fear of being attacked by his enemies, as soon as the Bounty should leave Otaheite ; and when he found it impossible to prevail on his Tyo myty (good friend) Bligh to let him go, he busied himself in getting two Parais, or mourning dresses, made, as a present to King George. When he presented the Parais, he could not refrain from shedding tears. " At the time," says Bligh, " that Tinah first mentioned to me his desire of visiting England, I asked what account I could give to his friends if he should not live to return; to which he replied, that I must cut off his hair, and carry it to them, and they would be perfectly satisfied." 26 DEPAKTUKE OF THE BOUNTY. On the evening of the day before the de- parture of the Bounty, there was none of the dancing or mirth, to which the people had been accustomed, on the beach. Before this, the part of the beach nearest the ship had been the general place of resort towards the close of the day. An hour before sunset, the inhabitants had amused themselves with exercising the lance, dancing, and various kinds of merriment. Of this cheerful scene Bligh and his men had been beholders and partakers every fine evening. In the midst of these delights, the moments so blissfully flew, that the young men of the Bounty seemed to imagine that the day of departure would never come : " But pleasures are like poppies spread, You seize the fiow'r, its bloom is shed ; Or like the snow-fall in the river, A moment white, then melts for ever ; Or like the Borealis race, That flit ere you can point their place ; Or like the rainbow's lovely form, Evanishing amid the storm." On Friday, the 3rd of April, 1789, all was silent. The mirth of the island was gone. The visitors were under sailing orders, and must quit the charming scene. It was a heavy trial to many. They had conformed themselves to the ways and habits of the native community ; and, just as though they had been settled in the place, most of the party had suffered themselves to undergo the custom of tattooing. They had now passed three and twenty pleas- ant weeks at Otaheite. On Saturday the 4th, the ship, as if loth to leave, moved slowly off, WYTOOTACKEE AND ANNAMOOKA. 27 being towed out of the harbour. Poor Tinah was on board to the last. He longed for a salute from the ship's guns on his departure, and wished that honour should be shown him before his people. But the indulgence of a salute could not be granted, for fear of disturbing the bread-fruit plants. As a parting token, however, of respect and regard, the Bounty people manned ship with all hands, and gave him three hearty cheers, as he left. Farewell, Tinah, inoffensive, genial chief! No more has been heard of you, since the rays of the setting sun fell on the de- parting Bounty, and you in sadness and sorrow again reached your shores, deserted by the youthful and the gay. Soon afterwards, the fresh sea-breeze blew, and they stood off to sea, steering towards the isle of Huaheine. On the 9th, they saw a water- spout, which passed within ten yards of the stern of the Bounty. After touching at the island of Wytootackee, and arranging some friendly interviews with the natives, Bligh anchored at Annamooka for water. Here some instances of theft occurred ; and the natives insulted the watering party, forcibly taking a spade from them. A boat's grapnel was also stolen. In consequence of these robberies, some of the chiefs were detained on board ; but Bligh, de- spairing of the return of the property, let the poor men go, they having denied all know- ledge of the crimes imputed, and beaten them- selves about the face and eyes, weeping and lamenting. At last, the parting from Anna- mooka w r as friendly ; the tears of the liberated 28 THE MUTINY. chiefs were changed into smiles of joy ; and on the 27th of April, the voyagers were sailing on a smooth sea, between the islands of Tofoa and Kotoo. On the arrival of the Bounty off Tofoa, one of the Friendly Islands, on the 28th of April, 1789, a dreadful mutiny broke out among some of the ship's officers and men, with Fletcher Christian, the master's mate, at their head. He was of a respectable family in the north of England, a young man of talent in his profession, twenty- four years of age, and of a quick and daring spirit. It is difficult, at this distance of time, to judge of the real motives which actuated these men in their evil design. Indeed, at the period of the mutiny, the object which the leaders had in view could only be conjectured. Bligh gave it as his opinion, that they had flattered themselves with the hope of returning to Otaheite, and again leading the agreeable kind of life which they had passed in that lovely and fascinating island; and he was most probably right. It has been alleged, on the other hand, that the idea of revisiting Otaheite had not formed part of the plan, but that, during the voyage, there had been frequent misunderstandings between the commander and Fletcher Christian; and that offence had been given by the former to Christian, and to some of the men, on the day before the mutiny. Much stress has been laid, by different persons, on each of these circumstances, as if one or the other had been the cause of the outrage. On this part of the subject it is unnecessary THE MUTINY. 29 to dwell at any length ; though it must not be wholly passed over. To assume, without proof, that the act of the mutineers was owing to tyranny on the part of Bligh, is surely not to make their case better; because, in this point of view, the deed must be looked upon as one, not only of sinful revenge against their com- mander, but of absurd and wanton cruelty against their unoffending messmates. For what prospect was there to men exposed in such a manner to the horrors of the deep, but death,' either by drowning or starvation? Again, those who had been accomplices in the mutiny would be likely to make excuses, and to throw the cause of the crime on any but them- selves. Every thoughtful reader will doubt the value of statements coming from such a quarter. Bligh was a well-trained and distinguished officer of a former school. Notwithstanding occasional impatient expressions of anger, which appear to have been more prevalent in naval commanders of those days, and which the rough and uneducated character of their crews was likely to provoke, still it is clear that it was Bligh' s study to make his men not only effi- cient, but comfortable and happy. No one can read his journal without being impressed with the tone of thoughtfulness for the welfare of others which pervades that remarkable work. But he could not endure professional neglect. Attending strictly to his own duty, he deemed it his part to see that those about him should attend to theirs : and it will be allowed, that he had some men under his command intractable 80 THE MUTINY. enough to try severely a temper less impetuous than his. On the 9th of March, he had found it necessary, on a complaint of the master, to punish one of the seamen for insolence, and mutinous behaviour. With regard to Fletcher Christian, he said, " This was the third voyage he had made with me; and as I found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I had given him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly equal to the task." Speaking of the division into three watches, he added, " I have always considered this a desirable regulation, when circumstances will admit of it, on many accounts ; and am per- suaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much to the health of the ship's company, but enables them more readily to exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency." On the evening before the mutiny, Bligh had invited Christian to supper in his cabin ; an invitation which was declined, Christian saying that he was unwell; but he had engaged to dine with Bligh on the following day. The night of the 27th of April, 1789, was remarked for its beauty, even in the tropical regions, all nature being calm and lovely around ; but it was the eve of a day of consternation and terror. On that night Christian had the watch for two hours. He had also the next morning's watch, which was from 4 to 8. Pull of desperate intentions, he began to sound Matthew Quintal, and some others, and soon gained over the greater part of the men. Having rapidly arranged their MEN IN THE BOUNTY, 31 plans, they got at the arms, under pretence of requiring a gun to shoot a shark, which was astern of the ship. At the dawn of day, they roughly awoke Bligh, who, starting up in amazement, on seeing men about him armed with cutlasses and pistols, called out loudly for assistance. On his demand- ing what they meant, " Hold your tongue, sir, or you are dead this instant !" was the answer which he received. Some of the mutineers, among whom Christian, Churchill, Mills, and Burkitt, were the most active, using oaths and violence, tied his hands with cords behind his back, not giving him time to dress ; and forcing him on the deck in his shirt, kept him under a guard behind the main-mast. They had secured the officers who were not of their party, by placing sentinels at their doors. " I con- tinued my endeavours," said Bligh, " to turn the tide of affairs, when Christian changed the cutlass he had in his hand for a bayonet which was brought to him ; and, holding me with & strong gripe by the cord that tied my hands, he, with many oaths, threatened to kill me if I would not be quiet." The boatswain and others, having been com- pelled to hoist out the launch, Bligh and eighteen men were forced to go into her, and were quickly veered astern of the ship by a rope. The men who remained on board the Bounty, were, as Bligh said, "twenty-five of the most able men in the ship. 7 A description of their several persons was afterwards drawn up by Bligh and others in the Bounty launch, and C 32 DESCRIPTION OF THE MEN". completed at Timor, Copies were forwarded to Lord Cornwallis, Governor-General of India, and to Governor Phillip, New South Wales. A list was left at Batavia. The author has no need to make any apology for inserting these particulars, which he is now enabled to furnish from a rare but authentic document. Among the following names will be seen those of the founders of families, respecting whose history this book is about to treat. FLETCHER 'CHRISTIAN, Master's Mate, 24 years of age, 5 feet 9 in. high, very dark-brown complexion, dark- brown hair, strong made, a star tattooed on his left breast, &c. PETER HEYWOOD, Midshipman, aged 1 7, 5 feet 7 in. high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, very much tattooed. On his right leg tattooed the three legs of the Isle of Man, as upon the coin. At this time he has not done growing. EDWARD YOUNG, Midshipman, aged 22 years, 5 feet 8 in. high, dark complexion ; strong ; lost several of his fore teeth ; tattooed, a heart and a dart through it, and E. Y. GEORGE STEWART, Midshipman, aged 23 years, 5 feet 7 in. high, good complexion, dark hair, slender make, small face, black eyes, tattooed on the left breast with a star, and on the left arm with a heart and darts. JAMES MORISON, Boatswain's Mate, aged 28 years, 5 feet 8 in. high, sallow complexion, long black hair, slender make, has lost the use of the upper joint of the fore finger of the right hand, tattooed with a star under his left breast, and a garter round his left leg, with the motto, HONI SOIT QUI MAL T TENSE. Has been wounded in one of his arms with a musket-ball. CHARLES CHURCHILL, Master-at-arms, aged 30, 5 feet 10 in. high, fair complexion, short light-brown hair, top of the head bald, strongly made, tattooed in several places of his body, legs, and arms. WILLIAM BROWN, Gardener, aged 27, 5 feet 8 in. high, fair complexion, dark-brown hair, slender made, a remark- able scar on one of his cheeks. JOHN MILLS, Gunner s Mate, aged 40, 5 feet 10 in. high, DESCRIPTION OF THE MEN. 33 fair complexion, light-brown hair, strong made, and raw-boned. MATTHEW THOMPSON, Able Seaman, aged 40, 5 feet 8 in. high, very dark complexion, short black hair, slender made; is tattooed in several parts of his body. JOHN SUMNER, Able Seaman, aged 24, 5 feet 8 in. high, fair complexion, brown hair, a scar on the left cheek, tattooed in several places. RICHARD SKINNER, Able Seaman, aged 22, 5 feet 8 in. high, fair complexion, very well made ; has scars on both ankles and on his right shin; is very much tattooed. THOMAS BURKITT, Able Seaman, aged 26, 5 feet 9 in. high, fair complexion, very much pitted with the small pox, brown hair, slender made, very much tattooed. JOHN MILLWARD, Able Seaman, aged 22, 5 feet 5 in. high, brown complexion, dark hair, strong made, very much tattooed in different parts of the body. THOMAS ELLISON, Able Seaman, aged 17, 5 feet 3 in. high, fair complexion, dark hair, strong made ; has got hia name tattooed on his right arm, and dated Oct. 25, 1788. MICHAEL BYRNE, Able Seaman, aged 28, 5 feet 6 in. high, fair complexion, short fair hair, slender made., is almost blind, plays the violin. MATTHEW QUINTAL, Able Seaman, aged 21, 5 feet 5 in. high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, strong made, very much tattooed. WILLIAM M'CoY, Able Seaman, aged 25, 5 feet 6 in. high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, strong made, a scar where he has been stabbed in the belly, a small scur under the chin, is tattooed in different parts. ALEXANDER SMITH, alias JOHN ADAMS, Able Seaman, aged 22, 5 feet 5 in. high, brown complexion, brown hair, strong made, very much pitted with the smallpox, and very much tattooed on his body, legs, arms, and feet ; he has a scar on his right foot, where it has been cut with a wood axe. JOHN WILLIAMS, Able Seaman, aged 25, 5 feet 5 in. high, dark complexion, black hair, slender made, has a scar on the back part of his head, is tattooed ; a native of Guernsey ; speaks French. ISAAC MARTIN, Able Seaman, aged 30 years, 5 feet 1 1 in. high, sallow complexion, short brown hair, raw-boned tattooed with a star on his left breast. KENRY HILLBRANT, Cooper, aged 25 years, 5 feet 7 in< C2 34 MEN IN THE LAUNCH. high, fair complexion, 'sandy hair, strong made, left arm shorter than the other, having been broken ; is an Hanoverian born, speaks bad English, tattooed in several places. WILLIAM MUSPRATT, Commander's Steward, aged 30, 5 feet 6 in. high, dark complexion, brown hair, slender made, a very strong black beard, with scars under his chin ; is tattooed in several places of his body. JOSEPH COLEMAN, Armourer, aged 40 years, 5 feet 6 in. high, fair complexion, gray hair, strong made, a heart tattooed on one of his arms. CHARLES XORMAN, Carpenter's Mate, aged 26 years, 5 feet 9 in. high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, slender made, is pitted with the small pox, and has a remarkable motion with his head and eyes. THOMAS MC!NTOSH, Carpenter's Crew, aged 28, 5 feet 6 in. high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, slender made, is pitted with the small pox, and is tattooed. The nineteen in the launch were as follow : WILLIAM BLIGH, Commander. JOHN FRYER, Master. WILLIAM ELPHINSTON, Master's Mate. ROBERT TINKLER, a Boy. WILLIAM PECKOVER, Gunner. WILLIAM COLE, Boatswain. WILLIAM PURCELL, Carpenter. THOMAS D. LEDWARD, Surgeon's Mate. JOHN SAMUEL, Clerk and Steward. DAVID NELSON, Botanist. LAWRENCE LEBOGUE, Sailmaker. PETER LINKLATER, ^ ,, . JOHN NORTON, Quarter-Masters. GEORGE SIMPSON, Quarter-Master's Mate. THOMAS HALL, Ship's Cook. JOHN SMITH, Commander's Cook. ROBERT LAMB, Butcher. Having flung them a few pieces of pork amounting to 32 pounds, 150 pounds of bread 28 gallons of water, 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, 4 cutlasses, a quadrant, and a compass, MEN IN THE LAUNCH. 35 with a quantity of twine, canvas, and cordage, the mutineers sailed away. Christian, as if to keep up the courage of his comrades, and exert his usurped authority in the vessel, ordered a dram of spirits to be served to each. In an affidavit, signed, in the presence of witnesses at Batavia, October 15, 1789, by fourteen men who had been in the launch with Bligh, it was declared, not only that huzzas were uttered in the Bounty, but that several expressions were used, which made the men in the launch believe that the intention of the mutineers was to return to Otaheite. Little did those lawless seamen think, when shouting with joy at their miscalled liberty, what troubles they were bringing upon their own heads. Leaving the Bounty pursuing the course which she had just before traversed, on the bright waters of the Pacific, the history will now turn to Bligh and his eighteen companions. What must have been his feelings, when his well-stored vessel was rudely snatched out of his hands, and he was doomed to see all the hopes and prospects of an important and interesting expe- dition scattered to the winds ! What a change in his prospects had a few hours wrought I The design, however, was not to be frustrated. Bligh was a man of sanguine temperament, and vigorous constitution j and it is possible th^t, as he bent his last look on the Bounty, hope may have whispered in his ear, that the royal com- mission would again be placed in his hands, and be crowned with full success. Was this to be so ? The reader will see. CHAPTER II. SCENE ON THE ISLAND OF TOFOA MURDER OF JOHN NORTON SUFFERINGS OF BLIGH AND HIS CREW FEEJEE ISLANDS CANNIBALISM BLIGH's LOG-BOOK MISERABLE ALLOWANCE PRATERS IN THE LAUNCH ENDEAVOUR STRAITS TIMOR ARRIVAL AT COUPANG BLIGH'S RETURN TO ENGLAND MEMOIR OF BLIGH. THE eighteen men, and their captain, thus cast adrift on the wide ocean, soon found themselves in a miserable condition. They began with touch- ing at Tofoa, an island about thirty miles from the scene of the mutiny. There they landed, endeavouring to obtain bread-fruit and water. In doing this, they seem to have forgotten their own defenceless state. After some deceitful show of friendship, the natives who lined the beach gave signs of violence, by knocking stones together which they had in their hands. Mac- caackavow, one of their chiefs, having in vain requested Bligh to remain that night, the 1st of May, 1789, the treacherous old man got up, and said, " Then, mattie," which signifies, " We will kill you ! " and left him. Scarcely had the helpless voyagers reached their boat, when the stir which had been com- menced by the chief came to its height. About two hundred natives attacked them with stones, which flew like a shower of shot : and all would probably have been cut off by these cowardly savages, had not one of the crew, John Norton, quarter-master, run up the beach, for the purpose MURDER OF JOHN NORTON. 37 of releasing the boat. This brave man fell a sacrifice, in preserving the lives of his com- panions. In doing this, he was surrounded by the natives, who barbarously murdered him, and afterwards beat him about the head with stones. Poor Norton, who had been on a former voyage with Bligh as a quarter-master, was a man of worthy character, and supported an aged parent out of his wages. Tney killed him on the beach, and dragged the body up the country to one of their malais, or lawns, and there left it exposed for two or three days before they buried it. This story was related by the islanders to Mr. William Mariner, when he visited Tofoa eighteen years afterwards ; and they added that no grass had since grown on the line along which they had dragged the corpse, nor upon the spot where it had lain unburied. Such a tale induced him to make further examination ; and he found a bare line, as they had stated, in a place where it would seem there was no frequency of passers-by; and at the termination of the track was seen a bare spot, extending transversely, about the length and breadth of a man. To this anecdote, which is found in Mariner's " Account of the Natives of the Tonga Islands/' it is not intended to give much weight ; there being many ways of explaining the seeming wonder. But a matter connected with one of the Bounty men, so heroic a character too, deserves to be recorded in this place. Those who related the marvellous part of the story were of such a treacherous and deceitful race, 38 MARINER AT TOFOA. that Mariner, in visiting the volcano on the summit of Tofoa, in company with a native guide, thought it necessary to provide himself with a pistol, as a defence against any violent measures on the part of his companion. Nor would he advance with him too near the crater of the volcano, " lest the man might have some sinister intent." * The volcano on the island of Tofoa may be noticed in the print of Captain Bligh, whose open l/oat is also represented. After the murder of Norton, on the 1st of May, many of the natives in canoes followed Bligh's boat very quickly, and renewed the assault with stones, of which they had brought a great quantity ; but, being attracted by some clothes which were, by his order, thrown to them, and which they stopped to pick up, they lost time, and abandoned the pursuit. It was then resolved by the party, at Bligh's instance, to make for a Dutch settlement on the island of Timor, in the East Indies, a distance of no less than 3,618 miles. Their stock of provisions then consisted of about 150 pounds of bread, 28 gallons of water, 20 pounds of pork, 3 bottles of wine, and a small quantity of rum ; a few cocoa-nuts were also in the boat. Such bread-fruit as they had was of no use, having been trampled to pieces in the bustle and confusion of the attack at Tofoa. The sufferings undergone by these eighteen men, in a boat only twenty- three feet in length, and six feet nine inches in breadth, heavily laden, and without any awning, were very * Mariner's "Tonga Islands/" vol. i. chap. viii. BLIGH MAKES FOR "NEW HOLLAND. 39 severe. They had to encounter heavy storms, and the pains of cold and hunger. Aware of the vast tract of voyage before tlwn, they promised to be content with one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water a day, for each person. The courageous and skilful manner in which Bligh pursued his course to the end, forms a striking fact in the annals of naval adventure. Having entreated the men, in the most solemn manner, not to depart from the promise which they had made, he, on the 2d of May, bore away, and shaped his course for New Holland, across a sea little explored. The boat was of such limited dimensions, that her gunwales are stated to have been not more than six inches above the water. In a violent tempest, which soon broke over them, the boat shipped such a quantity of water, that it was only by great exertions that she could be kept afloat. On the 5th of May, continuing their course to the north-west, they saw and passed a cluster of islands. Hitherto they had not been able to keep any other account than by guess ; but they now succeeded in getting a log-line marked, and by a little practice some could count the seconds with a tolerable degree of exactness. On the 6th, to their great joy, they hooked a fish ; but were miserably disappointed by losing it, as they tried to get it into the boat. On the 7th, the helpless and confined 'state in which they were, induced Mr> Bligh to put themselves " at watch and watch ;" so that one half might be on the look-out, while the others lay down in the boat's bottom^ or upon a chest. 40 THE FEEJEE ISLANDS. Even this gave but a trifling alleviation to their sufferings. Exposed to constant wet and cold, and not having room to stretch their limbs, they often became so dreadfully cramped as to be incapable of moving. On this day, another group of islands was seen; from whence they observed two large canoes in pursuit, one of which, by three o'clock in the afternoon, had gained upon them, and arrived within two miles of the boat, when the savages gave up the chase, and returned to shore. Mr, Bligh concluded, from the direction of these tracts of land, that they must have been the dangerous Feejee Islands, of which there are upwards of two hundred. The appearance of these islands, especially of the two largest, is generally very beautiful and interesting. They are well wooded, and have extensive rivers. The late Captain H. J. Worth, who visited the Feejee Islands in the Calypso^ in June, 1848, said, in a report which he sent home, that the group was supposed to contain a population of 300,000 inhabitants. Bligh appears to have had a providential escape from the Feejeeans, who are not only cunning, cruel, and vindictive, but are to be ranked among the vilest and most ruthless cannibals. Their horrible habit of feeding on human flesh is the more remarkable, as they excel their neighbours in talent and ingenuity, of which Captain Cook saw several specimens in 1777, and which have been noticed by subse- quent travellers. Cook admired their well-carved clubs and spears ; their earthen pots, variegated THE FEEJEE CANNIBALS. 41 mats, and beautiful chequered cloth, but spoke with disgust of their abominable repasts. He remarked that the inhabitants of Tongataboo, an island about three days' sail from the Feejees, hold this horrid custom in detestation ; but are induced by fear to cultivate the friendship of their terrible neighbours, and are accustomed to bend the body forward, and cover their faces with their hands, to express the sense of their own inferiority to the Feejee men. Cannibalism prevails everywhere in the Feejee Islands, ex- cept in the places in which Christianity has made progress. Captain Worth was informed by Mr. Hunt, of the Wesleyan Mission, that not fewer than five hundred persons had been eaten, within fifteen miles of his residence, during the five years previous. In August, 1855, Mr. Waterhouse, a Wesleyan Missionary to the Feejees, wrote from Bau, one of their cities, to say that he had, in the Decem- ber previous, prevailed upon the king to spare the life of a young man, an enemy, whom they had captured. " A Feejeean approached the king very respectfully, and begged his majesty to give him the young man to kill and eat that very day. With diabolical eloquence did he urge his suit, notwithstanding my presence. But the king adhered to his promise to me." Many of the Feejeeans acknowledge that they greatly prefer human flesh to any animal food whatever. But it is time to return to the band of men who had been so wonderfully preserved from threatening dangers. A small blank book, which 42 BLIGH AND HIS CREW. had been commenced in the Bounty, for the insertion of signals, was now found very ser- viceable in the launch. This book was used by Bligh, who, in consequence of its exposure to the wet, found it difficult to make his notes. " It is with the utmost difficulty," he said, "that I can open a book to write; and I feel truly sensible I can do no more than point out where these lands are to be found, and give some idea of their extent." This manuscript is in the pos- session of his daughters, and is much blotted and weather-stained. In it he wrote on the 7th May, " Cloudy, and light winds ; squeezed shirts ; saved six gallons of water." On the 8th, the weather was calm and fair, which gave the voyagers an opportunity of dry- ing their clothes, and cleaning out the boat. Mr. Bligh also amused all hands, by relating to them a description of New Guinea and New Holland, and supplying them with every in- formation in his power, so that in case any fatal accident should happen to him, the sur- vivors might be able to pursue their course to Timor. At this time the whole day's allowance to each was an ounce and a half of pork, half a pint of cocoa-nut milk, an ounce of bread, and a tea- spoonful of rum. " Hitherto," says Bligh, " I had issued the allowance by guess ; but I now made a pair of scales with two cocoa-nut shells; and having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, twenty-five of which weighed one pound, or sixteen ounces, I adopted one of these balls MISERABLE ALLOWANCE. 43 as the proportion of weight that each person should receive of bread at the time I served it." The allowance of half a pint of cocoa-nut milk was soon reduced to a quarter of a pint ; and these poor men, in their deep distress, at last relished even the wetted and decayed bread, which was doled out to each in the most careful and scrupulous manner. A storm of thunder and lightning, with heavy rain, though it drenched them once more to the skin, was yet very acceptable, as it gave them about twenty gallons of water. At about this date appears the following memorandum, which the author has copied from the book in Bligh's own hand- writing : " May 9 Fair weather, smooth water ; served a gill of water, and half-an-ounce of bread for supper. Sung a song, and went to sleep." Sung a song ! Surely every feeling heart must be affected by the contemplation of this simple instance of cheerfulness in the night of affliction. It shows in Bligh's character that trust in Pro- vidence which is so pathetically described by the sailor, in Dibdin's sea song, as part of the naval chaplain's teaching : " For he said how a sparrow can't founder, d'ye see, Without orders that came down below, And many fine things, that prov'd clearly to me That Providence takes us in tow. For, says he, do you mind me, let storms e'er so oft Take the top-sails of sailors aback, There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft To keep watch for the life of poor Jack." The annexed engraving, from a drawing made expressly for this work from the originals, shows 44 KELICS OF TIIE LAUNCH. the bowl, or gourd, out of which the commander took his meals ; the bullet- weight ; the little quarter of a pint horn mug for serving out the water; and, though last not the least interesting, Bligh's own log-book. They are all much treasured by his daughters, who permitted them to be sketched for this work. There are, per- haps, few genuine relics of the past more in- teresting. Through the kindness of the owners the author has had the satisfaction of illustrating with these objects a lecture on Pitcairn-s Island. The diameter of the gourd is rather more than five inches ; the depth nearly four inches. The following words are cut with a knife under the string : W. Bligh, April, 1789, Written in ink round the gourd : The cup I eat my miserable allowance out of. The horn cup is about two inches in depth, and not quite two inches in diameter. Bound it are these words, written in ink by Bligh : Allowance of ivater 3 times a day. The bullet is set in a small hasp-shaped metal plate, which Bligh afterwards used to wear suspended by a riband round his neck. Above the bullet are these words : This bullet, -^j of alb., was the allowance of bread which sup- ported 18 "mm for 48 days, served to each person three times a-day. TROUBLES AT SEA. d5 On the obverse : Under the command of Captain Will. BUgh, from the 28th April) 1789, to the 14A June following. On the 10th, the weather again began to be extremely boisterous, with constant rain, and frequent thunder and lightning. The sea was so rough as often to break over the boat, so that they were constantly baling, and often in imminent danger of perishing, In addition to their other misfortunes, the bread was damaged by the salt-water. Their clothes being never dry, they derived no refreshment from the little rest they sometimes got. Many were benumbed and cramped by the cold, and afflicted with violent shiverings and inward pains. As the weather still continued tempestuous, Mr. Bligh recommended all to take off their clothes, and wring them in the salt-water. This produced a warmth, which, whilst their clothing was wet with the rain, they could not enjoy. The following mournful entries are extracted from Bligh's little MS. book : " 12th May Calm and very cloudy : very uncomfortably wet ; no sun : see fish, but can catch none. Saw a gannet. " 17th May Sky dreadfully black all round us. Not able to see the compass. " 20th May Deluge of rain. We now dread the night ; being so cold and wet. " Thursday, 21st May Dismal, dark, rainy weather ; not able to see the compass ; steering by the sea, and suppose out of our course." On the 24th, it was thought necessary to reduce their already wretched pittance ; and it 46 WHO SHALL HAVE THIS? was agreed that each person should receive one twenty-fifth part of a pound of bread for break- fast, and the same quantity for dinner, omitting the allowance for supper. The next day, they saw several noddies and other sea-fowl, a few of which they were so fortunate as to catch. One of the birds came so near the boat, that it was caught by the hand. There was no wish to cook the birds. Besides the difficulty of dressing them, the claims of hunger were too peremptory to wait for such a process. Bligh divided one of them, which was of the size of a small pigeon, into eighteen portions ; " and," said he, " by a well-known method at sea, of, Who shall have this? it was distributed with the allowance of bread and water, for dinner, and eaten up, bones and all, with salt-water for sauce.' 7 The simple and impartial method alluded to is this : One man turns his back on the several portions of food. Another man, with his face towards the food, points to one of the portions, saying, Who shall have this ? He is answered by the former, who names one of the party ; each person having thus an equal chance of the best morsel. After they had shared this grand prize, several boobies flew near them in the evening, and they caught one of them. u This bird," says Bligh, " is as large as a duck. Like the noddy, it has received its name from seamen, for suffering itself to be caught on the masts and yards of ships.' The sight of sea-birds indicated the neighbourhood of land. The weather was now dry and fine. But even this soon became dis- PRAYER IN THE LAUNCH. 47 tressing; the heat of the sun was so intense, that many of the people were seized with a languor and faintness, which made them weary of life. On the morning of the 29th, breakers were discovered about a quarter of a mile distant; they immediately hauled off, and were soon out of danger. At daylight they saw the reef, over which the sea broke furiously* Steering along the edge of it, an openingwas observed, through which the boat passed. They were at once in smooth water ; they tried to catch fish ; and all their past hardships seemed to be forgotten. Tt occurred to Bligh, that they were within a few miles of Providential Channel. A small island within the reefs he named Island of Direction, as it served to show the entrance of the channel to which they had been conducted. At this hopeful period, he wrote, " We now returned God thanks for His gracious protection; and with much content took our miserable allowance of 3k twenty-fifth of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water for dinner." They had the advantage of using frequently a devout and humble prayer to God. which had been drawn up by the commander. This Form of prayer, which is in Mr. Bligh's handwriting in the manuscript book alluded to, the author has been enabled, through the kindness of Miss Bligh, to lay before the reader : PRAYER. " O Lord our Heavenly Father, Almighty and Everlasting God, [Thou hast safely brought 48 BLIGH'S PRAYER. us to the beginning of this day].* In and through the merits of our blessed Saviour, through whom we are taught to ask all things, we, thy unworthy servants, prostrate ourselves before Thee, and humbly ask Thee forgiveness of our sins and transgressions. " We most devoutly thank Thee for our pre- servation, and are truly conscious that only through thy Divine mercy we have been saved. We supplicate thy glorious Majesty to accept our unfeigned prayers and thanksgivings for thy gracious protection. Thou hast showed us wonders in the deep, that, we might see how powerful and gracious a God Thou art, how able and ready to help those who trust in Thee. Thou hast given us strength, and led us, and " has shown how both winds and seas obey thy command, that we may learn even from them hereafter to obey thy Holy Word, and do as Thou hast commanded. " We bless and glorify thy name for this thy mercy in preserving us from perishing. And we humbly beseech Thee to make us truly sen- sible of such thy Almighty goodness, that we may be always ready to express a thankfulness, not only by our words, But by our lives, by living more obediently to thy Holy Com- mandments : " Continue, OLord, we beseech Thee, through the mediation of our Blessed Saviour Jesus Christ, this thy goodness towards us. Strengthen our minds and guide our steps. Grant unto us * In the evening, [" Receive us this night into thy ' Almighty protection."] BLIGH'S PRAYEK. 49 health and strength to continue our voyage, and so bless our miserable morsel of bread that it may be sufficient for our undertaking. O Almighty God! relieve us from our extreme distress, such as men never felt. Conduct us, through thy mercy, to a safe haven, and in the end restore us to our disconsolate families and friends* "We promise, O Lord, with full and con* trite hearts, never to forget thy great mercies vouchsafed unto us. We promise to renew our unfeigned thanks at thy Divine Altar, and to amend our lives according to thy Holy Word. And now, Almighty God, as Thou hast given us grace at this time to make our common sup- plications unto Thee, and hast promised to those who ask in thy Son our Saviour's name that Thou wilt grant their requests, fulfil, O Lord, we beseech Thee, our desires and peti- tions, as may be most expedient for us, granting us in this world a knowledge of thy truth, and in the world to come life everlasting ; through the merits of our Blessed Mediator and Re- deemer, Jesus Christ. Amen. " Our Father, which art in heaven, &c. " The Grace, &c." The coast of New Holland now began to show itself distinctly. On the 28th of May, some of the party landed on a small island. Half the number slept on shore, the other half in the boat. On this island, on the 29th of May, they found plenty of oysters and berries, which, by men in their sad and reduced con- dition, were looked upon as luxuries : and above D2 50 RESTORATION ISLAND. all, they met with fine fresh water. After a more comfortable repose on the 29th than they had enjoyed for many nights, they were pre- paring the next day to depart, when about twenty natives, quite black, appeared on the opposite shore, running, hallooing, and making signs to land. Each was armed with a spear; several others were seen peeping over the tops of the adjacent hills. Bligh, who had earned some experience, and could judge of the nature of such invitations, deemed it most prudent to make the best of his way to sea. He named the place, Restoration island ; as not only applicable to his own situation, but to the an- niversary of King Charles the Second's Resto- ration, when it was discovered. As the boat sailed along the shore, many other parties of the natives came down, waving green boughs as tokens of peace and friendship ; but the judici- ous commander mistrusted these overtures, and thought it wise not to land. On the 30th of May, poor Bligh makes this complaint in his book : " The little pork I had when we sailed we have found frequently to be stolen, and found it so now, but cannot discover the wretch that did it." On the 31st, the voyagers landed on an island of good height, in order to get a distinct view of" the coast, as well as to obtain food. Some of the men were sent for supplies ; the others were ordered to remain in the boat. A few of the former paity, unwilling to work, owing to fatigue and weakness, said they would rathe- go without their dinner than have to search for : SYMPTOMS OF MUTINY. 51 it. The scene which followed was so remark- able, that it must be told in Bligh's own words. " One person, in particular, went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, that he was as good a man as myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have an end, if not stopped in time : therefore, to prevent dis- putes in future, I determined either to preserve my command, or die in the attempt. Seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of another and defend himself; on which he called out, that I was going to kill him, and he imme- diately made concessions. I did not allow this to interfere with the harmony of the boat's crew, and everything soon became quiet." Immediately after this scene, he added in his MS. : " Kind Providence protects us wonder- fully ; but it is a most unhappy situation to be in a boat among such discontented people, who don't know what to be at, nor what is best for them." Again, " Our little well still supplies plenty of water. " Saw a bee, and some lizards. I read prayers, and returned thanks for our safety." One of the three men who had been sent on the 31st of May to catch noddies, chose to pro- ceed by himself, and disturbed the birds to such a degree, that only twelve were brought back by the party. This man, Eobert Lamb, for his folly and obstinacy, received a good beat- ing from Bligh, and afterwards confessed when at Java, that he had eaten nine birds raw, after he had separated from his two companions ! It was probably he who stole the pork. 52 THEIR SUFFERINGS. From the above-mentioned island,after making hearty meals on birds and shell-fish, the voyagers again put to sea, steering along the shore, often touching at the different islands, and sandy quays, to refresh themselves, and to get such supplies as could be afforded. On the evening of the 3d of June, they had passed, by a* most difficult and dangerous passage, through Endeavour Straits, and were once more launched into the open , ocean, shaping their course for the island of Timor. A continuance of wet and tempestuous weather, and incessant fatigue, affected even the strongest among them to such a degree, that they appeared to be almost at the point of death, Mr. Bligh then, as at other times, used .every effort to revive their drooping spirits. The notices in the journal, a few days after this, appear to show that their situation had become too deplorable to last. But at that awful crisis, as the reader will see, it pleased their Almighty Preserver to bring them out of trouble. On June the 8th they had been so fortunate as to catch a small dolphin, portions of which were issued, including the offal, in the usual way of, Who shall have this ? The remainder they saved for dinner the next day. Towards evening that day the wind freshened; and it blew strong all night, so that they shipped much water, and suffered greatly from the wet and cold. MS. book, June Gth. "Caught a booby, and, as before, some of us ravenous for even the, blood; 1 SIGHT OF LAND; 53 " June 9tJi. At daylight, as usual, I had much complaining, which my own feelings con- vinced me was too well founded. Gannets, boobies, men-of-war, and tropic birds, were con- stantly about us. Served the usual allowance of bread and water, and at noon dined on the remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. This afternoon I suffered .great sickness from the oily nature of part of the stomach of the fish, which had fallen to my share at dinner. At sunset I served an allow- ance of bread and water for supper. In the morning, after a very comfortless night, there was a visible alteration for the worse in many of the people. Extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly countenances, a more . than common inclination to sleep, with an apparent debility of understanding, seemed to me the melancholy presages of approaching dissolution" How cheering are the words which follow: " Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not far from land !" This simple passage reminds us of the words of the old sea-song : " Look out, look out, my trusty crew, Strain every anxious eye ; Though spray and mist obscure the view, We know the land is nigh ! " At three o'clock in the morning of the 12th of June, to their inexpressible joy, they dis- covered the island of Timor. Here Bligh breaks out in language which will find an echo in the heart of every reader, who has accompanied him 54 ROTI. thus far in all his troubles and privations. "It is not possible for me to describe the plea- sure which the blessing of the sight of this land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible to ourselves, that in an open boat, and so poorly provided, we should have been able to reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa ; having at that time run, by our log, a distance of 3,618 miles; and that, not- withstanding our extreme distress, no one should have perished in the voyage ! " On the 13th, they found land in a small sandy bay near the island of Roti, where the natives, who were of a dark tawny colour, received them courteously, "bringing them a few pieces of dried turtle, and some ears of Indian corn, which were very acceptable. They offered to bring other refreshments ; but Bligh, who acknowledged their kindness, and the " European politeness" of some of them, determined to push on. At ten o'clock that night he issued for supper a double allowance of bread, and a little wine to each person ; and at one the next morning, which was Sunday, " after the most sweet and happy sleep that ever men enjoyed," they weighed anchor, and continued along the east shore. Then, after rowing and resting alter- nately for some distance, they were, on the 14th June, regaled with sounds and sights dear to every seaman, but almost transporting to those who had so long been strangers to all that was joyous in their profession. The report of two cannons that were fired gave new life to all ; and soon after they discovered two square-rigged ARRIVAL AT COUPANG. 55 vessels and a cutter at anchor to the eastward. Out of a bundle of signal flags, which the boat- swain had thrown into the launch before they left the Bounty, they had made a small jack, which was hoisted in the main shrouds, as a signal of distress ; " for," says Bligh, " I did not think proper to land without leave." Soon after daybreak, at the Dutch settlement of Coupang, a soldier who had been sent down to the beach, hailed them to land. He con- ducted them to the fort; and what was their delight in making their way through a crowd of people, who stood gazing with wonder and pity upon their emaciated forms, to meet an ENGLISH SAILOR ! This man, who belonged to one of the vessels in the road, at once stepped forward to give them a hearty welcome, adding that his captain", who was the second person in the town of Coupang, would gladly be of use. To him the party were conducted; and cer- tainly Captain Spikerman, though not quite the second man in the place, was a living example of the truth of the good old proverb, "A friend in need is a friend indeed." He received them into his house, took care of them, and intro- duced them to the governor. They met with the most friendly and hospitable treatment from the governor, Mr. Adrian Van Este, though he was in a very ill state of health. He sent a message, regretting that illness prevented his befriending them in person ; but he committed 'them, to the care of Mr. Wanjon, his son-in-law; who, with other leading persons at Coupang, made every effort to render their situation corn- 56 THE LANDING AT COUPANG. fortable. Mr, Van Este ordered a house to be cleared and comfortably prepared for Bligh 's use; but he would accept nothing till he saw his officers and men provided for also. He, therefore, took one room for himself ; and in his own memorandum book he specifies the manner in which he allotted the rest of the rooms to them, Then he adds, " The surgeon came to visit us. Clothes given. Dinner at noon." The picture given of the landing, displays in a striking manner the sad condition of these afflicted creatures, and the feelings excited in the hospitable people of Coupang. " Our bodies were nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were clothed in rags. In this condition, with the tears of joy and gra- titude flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of horror, sur- prise, and pity." . Bligh, who headed the sad procession, and who gave this account, must himself have had a ghastly and famine- stricken appearance ; for a few days before, when they were all on the open sea, the boatswain had in- nocently told him, that he (Captain Bligh) looked worse than any one in the boat. But Bligh himself cheerfully wrote with his own pen, " I ranked among the few of the heartiest ones, and was certainly the strongest on my legs, but reduced like the others very much ; and it was favourable to all, as I was able to move about, and supply the necessary wants." In July, David Nelson, the botanist, died of fever. Nelson was a man much respected, and of great scientific knowledge, lie had been BLIGH'S RETURN TO ENGLAND. 57 originally appointed to the Bounty, on the re- commendation of Sir Joseph Banks, to have the management of the bread-fruit plants ; and he had been similarly engaged in Captain Cook's last voyage. On the 20th of August, Bligh, and his crew ; of sixteen, sailed from Coupang for Batavia, in a schooner which he had bought, and which he had appropriately named, the Resource. They took in tow the launch in which their lives had been so providentially preserved, Both the' Resource and the launch were afterwards sold by Dutch auction* at Batavia. After some detention at Batavia, in conse- quence of illness, Bligh was able to embark for his passage homeward, on the 16th of October, 1789 ; and on the 14th of March, 1790, he was landed by an Isle of Wight boat at Portsmouth. f Of the nineteen who had been forced into the launch, twelve returned to their native coun-j try, Bligh had brought all but Norton safe to Coupang : Elphinston, Linkletter, Hall, and Lamb, died soon afterwards, Ledward remained at Batavia, < That, under the very distressing trials, to which they had been exposed, all with the ex- ception of the poor man who was murdered, should have been brought safe to Coupang, is a fact which may well excite our astonishment. On this head some remarks remain to be added. " With respect, 1 ' said Bligh, " to the preserva-, " The custom at Batavia is to begin high, and to lower i.e price till some person bids, and the first bidder is the buyer." Bligh's Voyage, p. 256. 58 CAPTAIN KENNEDY. lion of our health, during a course of sixteen . days of heavy and almost continual rain, I would recommend to every one, in a similar situation, the method we practised, which is, to dip their clothes in the salt water, and wring them out as often as they become filled with rain. It was the only resource we had, and, I believe, was of the greatest service to us ; for it felt more like a change of dry clothes than could well be ima- gined. We had occasion to do this so often, that at length all our clothes were wrung to pieces ; for, except the few days we passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually wet either with rain or sea." The practice alluded to in this passage, as well as in other parts of Captain Bligh's affect- ing narrative, is also strongly recommended by Captain Kennedy, in his account of the loss of his ship at sea, and of his distresses afterwards. Captain Kennedy sailed with his crew from Port Royal, Jamaica, on the 21st of December,, 1768. They were shipwrecked, their vessel was sunk, and thirteen men were crowded into the yawl. Tossed about with hardly any provisions, they at last reached the Bay of Honduras. " It may," says he, " appear very remarkable, that though I had neither tasted food nor drank for eight days, I did not feel the sensations of hunger and thirst. On the fourteenth day my drought often required me to gargle my throat with salt water. On the 10th of January, 1769, we arrived at St. George's Quay in a very languid state, having then lost six out of the thirteen in the course of about twenty days. BLIGH'S ACTIVITY AND CHEERFULNESS. 59 I cannot conclude without making mention of the great advantage I received from soaking my clothes twice a-day in salt-water, and putting them on without wringing. It was a considerable time before I could make the people comply with this measure ; though, from seeing the good effect it produced, they afterwards, of their own accord, practised it twice a-day. To this discovery I may with justice attribute the pre- servation of my own life, and that of six other persons, who must have perished but for its being put in use. " This hint was first communicated to me from the perusal of a treatise written by Dr. Lind, and which, I think, ought to be commonly understood, and recommended to all seafaring people. So very great advantage did we derive from this practice, that the violent drought went off, and the parched tongue was cured in a few minutes, after bathing and washing our clothes ; at the same time, we found ourselves as much refreshed as if we had received some actual nourishment.'' Bligh was not a person likely to overlook such an advantage as this. But, whilst these and like means were made available for the benefit of those who were so sorely tried, it must not be forgotten, that he, by his own advice and ex- ample, and the application of all his resources, helped to keep up the flame of life and courage in the whole party with the happiest effects. There is internal evidence of this, which has not been sufficiently marked in the accounts hitherto published ; but which, if collected, would serve 60 NOTICE OF BLIGHr to show, that if ever there was a brave officer actuated by a resolute sense of duty, uninfluenced by selfishness or partiality, it was Bligh. A short notice of the life of Admiral Bligh will be interesting in this place. It appears by the register of St. Andrew's, Plymouth, that William, son of Francis and Jane Bligh, was baptized in that church, October 4th, 1754. Francis T the Admiral's father, was the son of Richard Bligh, of Tinten, a duchy estate in St. Tudy, a few miles from Bodmin, Cornwall. The general residence of the family was near Bodmin, where some connexions of the late Admiral, who also bear the name of Bligh, are still living. It has been stated that Bligh had sailed for four years with Captain Cook, in whose inte- resting history of researches in the Southern Pacific, Bligh' s name more than once occurs. The account of his wonderful two years' ad- ventures, from the end of 1787 to the beginning of 1790, is before the reader. On his return to England in 1790, he was made a Commander, and then a Post Captain ; the three years' service, according to ordinary regulation, being, in his case, dispensed with as a mark of favour. He was again appointed to a ship for the pur- pose of conveying the bread-fruit to the West Indies. This ship was the Providence, in which he set sail August 3d, 1791, accompanied by the Assistant, a smaller vessel. They reached Otaheite April 9th, 1792, from whence they sailed in July with 1,281 tubs and pots of the plants in the finest condition. These were dis- NOTICE OF BLIGH. 61 tributed at St. Helena, St. Vincent's and Jamaica, and he returned to England in August, 1793, In token of this important service, and as a tribute to his merit, Captain Bligh, in 1794, received a large gold medal from the Society of Arts. This valuable relic is in the possession of his daughters. On his arrival in England from his second and successful voyage to Otaheite, he found that the court-martial on the mutineers had taken place in his absence, and that Edward Chris- tian, Fletcher Christian's brother, a barrister of eminence, had put forth a quarto pamphlet, entitled " Minutes of the proceedings of the Court-Martial, &c., with an Appendix ? &c." These minutes are stated to have differed from those lodged at the Admiralty; and the ten- dency of the publication was to palliate Fletcher Christian's conduct at the expense of Captain Bligh's character. Edward Christian naturally feared that his brother's life, should he have lived to return home, would have been forfeited to the laws of his country. In December of the same year Bligh issued an answer to the allegations which had been published against him, and replied with much calmness to what he styled Mr. Edward Chris- tian's defence of his brother. In the preface to his Answer, which consists chiefly of original documents, by way of proofs, he said : " One of the hardest cases which can befal any man is to be reduced to the necessity of defending his cha- racter by his own assertions only. As such fortunately is not my situation, I have rested 62 . BLIGH'S SERVICES. my defence on the testimony of others, adding only such of the written orders issued by me in the course of the voyage as are connected with the matter in question; which orders, being issued publicly in writing, may be offered as evidence of unquestionable credit." Among the important documents thus pub- lished, were affidavits, made in August 1794, at Guildhall, London, before Alderman Sir Watkin Lewes, which serve to disprove the statements which had been put forth to Bligh's prejudice. The Answer contains nothing in his own words, except a short preface, and the Conclusion, which is as follows : " I submit these evidences to the judgment of the public, without offering any comment. My only intention in this publication is, to clear my character from the effect of censures which lam conscious I have not merited. I have, therefore, avoided troubling the public with more than what is necessary to that end, and have refrained from remark, lest I might have been led beyond my purpose, which I have wished to limit solely to defence." After this event, Bligh was much engaged in active service, both in war and peace. In the spring of the year 1797, on the occasion of the mutiny at the Nore, when some of the seamen of the Channel fleet, instigated by evil-minded persons, disgraced themselves by disobedience and insurrection, the Admiralty employed Bligh to go amongst them, and effect what could be done, in bringing back these misguided men to a sense of loyalty and honour. On that MUTINY AT THE NORE. 63 occasion he behaved with great heroism and determination. An address to British sailors, which was largely circulated during that memorable year, and signed " The Seamen's Friend," being written by the late Mr. William Vaughan, an active and eminent merchant of Lon- don, concluded with the following stirring words : " Arouse ye, then, ye British seamen ! Go join the brave Admiral Duncan, who, with four sail of the line, blockades the whole Dutch naval force in their own ports, while a British fleet ingloriously blockades the mouth of the Thames. Blot from the page of history the record of your shame, and a recollection of the transaction, by a return to your duty, and by your exertions. It may be in your power to close a war honour- ably to yourselves, and favourably to your coun- try. Emulating the examples of Lord Howe on the glorious action of the 1st of June, 1794, and Sir John Jervis's signal and brilliant vic- tory on the 14th of February, 1797, go seek the enemy off their own ports ; and may the laurels you gain secure to us an honourable and lasting peace ! Remember, however, that the British navy and British seamen owe their fame, suc- cess, and national character to vigour, union, discipline, and subordination ; and that without them, the navy is like a ship in a storm without masts or rudder." The writer of this address truly added, " The nation loves the navy ; it is a favourite service." It was at about this time that Dibdin wrote E 64 GRAND NAVAL VICTORIES. his celebrated sea-songs, t> encourage manly and loyal sentiments among the sailors. In the year 1797, there were two naval actions, both of them important in themselves, and peculiarly so from the state of the times : one was that of Sir John Jervis, who gallantly fought the Spanish fleet off Cape St. Vincent, in February ; the other, that of Admiral Duncan, who successfully engaged the Dutch fleet oft Camperdown, in October. These victories dis- pelled the gloom that had hung over the nation ; for British valour had shone with the greatest splendour in both actions. On the llth of October, 1797, Bligh com- manded the Director, in the brave Admiral Duncan's fleet, at the famous battle of Camper- down. The Miss Blighs have some good naval drawings by Owen; one representing the Director coming up with the Vrijheid, the ship of the Dutch Admiral, De Winter; another showing the engagement between them ; and the third, the Vrijheid, almost a hulk, silenced, and striking to the British flag. The canton of the Dutch flag, a valued prize, is in the possession of these two ladies. The seamen had now, in the eventful year 1797, returned to their duty; and on the 19th of December a public and solemn Thanksgiving to God was held in St. Paul's Cathedral, for the three great naval victories obtained by Lords Howe, St. Vincent (Jervis), and Duncan. In 1801, Bligh commanded the Glatton at the battle of Copenhagen, under Lord Nelson, who, having sent for him after the action, ADMIRAL BLIGH. 65 thanked him before his officers, saying, "Bligh, I sent for you to thank you; you have sup- ported me nobly." In 1805, Captain Bligh was appointed Go- vernor of New South Wales. The steps which he took, with a view to the benefit of the colony, in accordance with instructions laid down for him by the Government at home, dated St. James's, May 25, 1805, occasioned much dissa- tisfaction to some persons on the spot ; though his measures obtained the written approbation of His Majesty's Government. The instructions given him had been directed against the unre- strained importation of spirits into the settle- ment; the colonists having been in the constant habit of bartering their goods for ardent spirits. Lord Castlereagh, in a letter dated London, Dec. 31, 1807, wrote to Governor Bligh as follows: "I am to express His Majesty's approbation of the determination you have adopted to put an end to the barter of spirits, which appears to have been abused to the great injury and morals of the colony ; and I am to recommend, that, whatever regulations you may find it most eligible to establish for the sale of spirits, you will never admit a free importation, but preserve the trade under your entire control ; and that you will not fail vigorously to levy the penalties you shall establish for preventing illegal import. " In his energetic efforts to abolish this evil, and in the fearless discharge of his duty, Bligh gave deep offence. He was too inflexible to be popular; and in January, 1808, he was deposed E2 66 ADMIRAL BLIGH; at Sydney by the New South Wales Corps, headed by Lieut. -Colonel G. Johnston, In May, 1811, Colonel Johnston was tried by court-martial at Chelsea Hospital, found guilty of an act of mutiny, and sentenced to be cashiered. This trial lasted for thirteen days, and excited great public interest. Colonel Johnston was of a highly respectable family in Annandale, in Scotland. He returned to New South Wales, shortly after his trial, and spent the remainder of his days in the colony. Sir F, S. Pollock, Lord Chief Barom of the Ex- chequer, who was at that time Mr, Frederick Pollock, was one of Bligh's counsel at the trial. Previously to this, and during Bligh's admi- nistration, a circumstance occurred which, when recent events are considered in connexion with the people of Pitcairn, appears very remarkable. His predecessor, as Governor of New South Wales, Philip King, had advised the abandon- ment of Norfolk Island as a convict settlement ; and the execution of the task devolved upon Bligh ; William Windham, Esq. , then Secretary of State for the Colonies, having, in December, 1806, despatched to Governor Bligh directions for the entire evacuation of the Island. The reasons alleged for this measure were the vast expense of maintaining the settlement ; the dif- ficulty of keeping up a communication between it and Port Jackson; the danger attending an approach to an island without a port secure from tempests, and even without a road in which ships could safely anchor. Many of the convicts weie removed, against their own wishes, to Port DEATH OF BLIGH. 67 Dalrymple, and other places in Van Diemen's Land ; but the entire removal of prisoners did not take place until the year 1807. Bligh, after his return to England, be- came a Vice- Admiral of the Blue. In ad- vancing years he found much happiness in the midst of his family, to whom he was greatly endeared. His eventful life was now drawing to its close. A serious internal complaint obliged him to come to London from his resi- dence at Farningham, Kent, for advice^; and he died shortly afterwards in Bond Street, on the 7th of December, 1817, in the sixty-fourth year of his age. He left no son, but several daughters. His surviving daughters remember him with feelings of the most tender affection, and call to mind many instances of the kind and thoughtful attention which he showed to the welfare and comfort of his children, especially when any of them happened to be suffering from illness. The portrait at the beginning of this chapter is a good representation of Captain Bligh, at about the age of forty. His complexion was naturally pale, or, as it has been described, "of an ivory or marble whiteness." His hair was black. His face, though it had been exposed to all climates, and to the roughest weather, was, even as years began to tell upon him, far from appearing weather-beaten, or coarse. This was probably owing to his temperate habits and fine constitution. The remains of Admiral Bligh were deposited in a vault in the churchyard of the parish church of St. Mary, Lambeth. On the south side of the 68 TOMB OF BLIGH AND HIS TAMILY. church is his tomb, which has been repaired and restored by the Society of Arts. In the family vault beneath this tomb, also lie interred the remains of Elizabeth Bligh, his wife, who died in April 1812, in the sixtieth year of her age. She is described in her epitaph as a good daugh- ter, wife, and mother. Two sons, twins, who died in 1795, aged one day; a daughter, Anne Campbell Bligh, who died November 1, 1844, aged fifty- nine ; and a grandchild, W. Bligh Barker, who died October, 1805, aged three years, rest in the same vault. The following inscription appears on the west side of the tomb : TO THE MEMORY OF WILLIAM BLIGH, ESQ. F.R.S. VICE-ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE, THE CELEBRATED NAVIGATOR; WHO FIRST TRANSPLANTED THE BREAD-FRUIT TREB FROM OTAHEITE TO THE WEST INDIES J BRAVELY FOUGHT THE BATTLES OF HIS COUNTRY; AND DIED BELOVED, RESPECTED, AND LAMENTED, ON THE7TH DAT OF DECEMBER, 1817, AGED 64. CHAPTER III. LEGAL PROCEEDINGS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE MUTINY TOUBOUI CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON WRECK OP THE PANDORA PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY LETTERS FROM NESSY HEYWOOD AND OTHERS TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS THE KING'S PARDON HONOURABLE CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOD HIS DEATH LINES BY ONE OF HIS CREW. RESUMING the thread of the history, the reader will now return to the period of Biigh's arrival in England, after his preservation from the vio- lence of the mutineers, and the terrors of the deep. On his return home in 1790, he published an interesting narrative of the mutiny on board the Bounty, and the hardships which he had endured until his landing at Timor. This ex- cited much sympathy in his favour, and no little indignation against the mutineers. As soon as the English government became acquainted with the criminal act of mutiny and piracy, of which Christian and his party had been guilty, they sent out the Pandora frigate, under Captain Edward Edwards, with orders to visit the Society and Friendly Islands, and use every endeavour to seize and bring home the offenders. On the arrival of that officer at Matavai Bay, off Otaheite, on the 23d of March, 1791, three of the men, who had remained there nearly 70 CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON. two years, namely, Joseph Coleman, Peter Hey- wood, and George Stewart, came on board the Pandora, and surrendered themselves to the law. They were received with all the sternness of offended justice, and instantly put in irons. The captain succeeded in taking eleven others at Otaheite, who were also carefully ironed. Two of the mutineers, Churchill and Thomp- son, who had landed with the rest at Otaheite, were no longer in existence when Captain Edwards arrived. The history of these two men has a dreadful kind of interest belonging to it. Within a short period of their quitting the Bounty, one of them, the ship's corporal, had become a king, and both had been murdered ! Churchill, after residing a short time at Mata- vai, accepted an invitation to live with Walieea- dooa, who was sovereign of Teirraboo when Captain Cook last visited that place, Thompson accompanied Churchill thither; but they very soon disagreed. Waheeadooa dying without children, Churchill, who had been his tyo, or chief friend, succeeded to his dignity and pro- perty, according to the established custom of the country. Thompson, envious of Churchill's honours, and angry at some fancied insult, took an opportunity of shooting him. The natives rose to punish the murderer of their new sovereign, and stoned Thompson to death. This wicked man had been guilty of murdering a man and a child, but had then escaped punishment, in consequence of the difficulty of identifying his person. Peter Heywood had been mistaken for him, and was on the point of being destroyed WRECK OF THE PANDORA. 71 with an axe, when an old chief, who knew Peter, interposed, and saved his life. The only simi- larity between these persons must have been in their both having been Europeans ; for Thomp- son, at the time of the mutiny, was forty years old, and of very dark complexion, with short black hair ; whilst Peter Heywood is described as but seventeen years of age, with a fair com- plexion, and light brown hair. Captain Edwards, after many inquiries, could hear nothing of the Bounty, nor of the nine remaining mutineers. But he had secured, and had with him on board the Pandora, fourteen prisoners, confined in a narrow space, which was called " Pandora's Box/' It was built on the after-part of the quarter-deck, and was only eleven feet in length. The voyage homeward was very disastrous, the ship being wrecked on her return on a coral reef, off the coast of New Holland, on the 29th of August, 1791. Before she went down, Hey- wood and some other prisoners were able to disengage their hands and feet from the irons with which they had been fastened- the key of their chains having been dropped through the scuttle into their prison, which was, at the time, fast filling with water. The master-at- arms, who, whether by design or accident, had dropped the key, was drowned, with thirty of the ship's company, and four of the unhappy prisoners. These four Stewart, Sumner, Skin- ner, and Hillbrant sunk in their irons. Eighty- nine of the Pandoras crew and ten prisoners were saved. 72 THE SANDY QUAY. Young Heywood seized a plank, and was swimming towards a small sandy quay about three miles off, when a boat took him up, and conveyed him thither. He afterwards sent home to his dear sister Nessy, from the ship Hector, in which he was confined as a prisoner, two clever little sketches, which are in existence, being within a circumference not larger than that of an ordinary watch-glass. The one re- presents the Pandora sinking, as he must have caught a view of her from his plank. The other depicts the survivors on the sandy quay, which was scarcely ninety yards long by sixty yards wide : where, under the meridian, and almost ver- tical, sun, the only shelter the prisoners had was to bury themselves up to the necks in the burn- ing sand. They were on this miserable spot for nineteen days. Captain Edwards had tents, made from the boat-sails, erected for himself and his people. The prisoners petitioned him for an old sail, part of the wreck, which was lying use- less ; but it was refused. He seems to have been needlessly severe and harsh to men who had not yet been declared guilty, and who had an un- doubted right to the common offices of humanity and respect. But there are those in every age who find no pleasure in showing kindness to the unfortunate, whilst they are lavish of their attentions to the prosperous and happy. The only article saved by Heywood, on his escape from the wreck, was a Common Prayer- book, which, in swimming from the Pandora, he held between his teeth. It is a small Oxford edition of the year 1774. It has " P.H." written HAYWARD AND HEYWOOD. 73 on the title-page, and contains, in the fly-leaves, some of his handwriting, chiefly in the language of Otaheite. The writing, which is much oblite- rated, probably by salt-water, consists of notes of events and places in which he was concerned. The first date is the memorable 28th of April, 1789, the day of the mutiny, The next entry is " Sep. 22, 1789, Mya ToOBOOAl* mye" "Mar. 25, 1791, We ta Pahee PANDORA." " EDWARDS, 1 Sept 1791,"" 18 March, 1792, We tow te Vredenberg tea (several Otaheitan words follow, with English proper names intermingled in the sentence), TABLE BAY, GORGON, PORT JACKSON."" 24 March, 1792, Pahee HECTOR." This interesting relic, and the little drawings above mentioned, are in Mrs. Hey wood's pos- session. < Captain Edwards, and the remainder of the crew, after leaving the sandy quay, made their way in the ship's boats to Timor, where they arrived September 15th, 1791. They had in the mean time suffered dreadful privations. A very small allowance of bread and water each day was carefully served out to the men, the weight of each portion of bread being ascertained by a musket-ball. A pair of wooden scales had been made for each of the four boats. One of the seamen went mad, and died from drinking salt water to quench his intolerable thirst. In * The allusion to Toobooai applies to the island of that name in lat. 20 13' S. long. 149 35' W., where the muti- neers had landed after the mutiny, and where, on a second visit, they had begun to throw up a fort. They again left Toobooai for Otaheite in the Bounty at tho end of September 74 PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY. Captain Edwards's boats one of the mutineers was observed to be engaged in his private devotions ; but he was roughly, interrupted by the Captain, who would not allow him to pray, but chose to read prayers himself among his company afterwards. Who the poor prisoner was, that was not ashamed to be seen by his fellow-sufferers in the act of piayer, and whose devotions were thus rudely prevented, we are not told ; but the circumstance is one of too affecting and instructive a nature to be overlooked. It is a remarkable fact, that Lieutenant Thomas Hayward, who had been in the Bounty, afterwards in the launch with Bligh, and subse- quently in the Pandora with Edwards, was, in consequence of the wreck, again set adrift on the same sea in an open boat, again exposed to serious hardships on the deep, and again per- mitted to reach Timor in safety ! Peter Heywood, son of Peter John Heywood, Esq., and grandson of Mr. Heywood, Chief Jus- tice of the Isle of Man, was born in June 1773. He had left a- happy home in the Isle of Man, in August, 1787, when only fourteen years old, for his first voyage in the Bounty, and was but a youth of between fifteen and sixteen on the occasion of the mutiny. He had now been away from his father, mother, brothers, and sisters, for five years. About the latter end of March, 1790, liis mother heard with grief and consternation of the mutiny which had taken place on board the Bounty. Her husband had died two months previously, and had thus been spared a painful domestic trial. The dreadful intelligence which NESSY HEYWOOD. 75 reached her was aggravated by many malignant additions to the facts. She had been informed by one who came to break the news to her, that her son, as a ringleader of the mutiny, had gone armed into Bligh's cabin ! She could not, indeed, bring herself to believe the account; but, though she knew her dear boy's good qualities, she feared the worst results from his having been mixed up in such a disastrous transaction. His sister Nessy (Hester), uncertain whether he was alive or dead, had written him a letter, dated Isle of Man, 3d June, 1792, and had despatched it by "the hands of Mr, Hay ward, of Hackney; the father," she says, " of the young- gentleman whom you, dear Peter, so often men- tioned in your letters while you were on board the Bounty, and who went out as a third lieu- tenant of the Pandora.^ After making many pathetic allusions to her brother's probable condition, and declaring her readiness, " without hesitation, to stake her life on his innocence," she adds, " How strange does it seem to me that I am now engaged in the de- lightful task of writing to you ! Alas ! my loved brother, two years ago I never expected again to enjoy such a felicity ; and even yet I am in the most painful uncertainty whether you are alive. The gracious God grant that we may be at length blessed by your return. But, alas ! the Pandora s people have been long expected, and are not even yet arrived. Should any accident have happened, after all the miseries you have already suffered, the poor gleam of hope with which we have been lately indulged, will render 76 ARRIVAL OP PETER HEYWOOD. our situation ten thousand times more insupport- able than if time had inured us to your loss." A letter from Peter, dated Batavia, Nov. 20, 1791, at last announced that he was alive, and on his return. His account of the painful scene on board the Bounty afforded them, as far as he was concerned, comparative happiness. " Hap- pening to awake," said he, "just after daylight, and looking out of my hammock, I saw a man sitting upon the arm-chest in the main-hatch- way, with a drawn cutlass in his hand," Being confused with the scene presented on deck, and having heard two different accounts of the object and intent of the chief actors in this deed of violence, Heywood remained awhile a silent spectator of all that was passing, until, with the best judgment which his youth and inexperience could supply on such an emergency, he decided to remain in the ship. Afterwards, on his trial, he expressed a hope that he might be reckoned among the friends whom Bligh acknowledged he had left on board the Bounty. " Indeed," said Heywood, " from his attention to, and very kind - treatment of me, I should have been a monster of depravity to have betrayed him," Young Heywood's arrival (though as a prisoner in chains) in England, on the 19th of June, 1792, was in itselr a relief to his distressed mother and friends. He had been conveyed from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope in a Dutch ship, in which he had endured much hardship, and had been thence removed into the Gorgon, where he was treated with kindness, and allowed to walk upon deck several hours a day. Two days after his LETTERS. 77 return, he was transferred to the Hector^ a 74-gun ship, commanded by Captain Montagu, which was, for upwards of eighteen weeks, his prison. Many letters passed between Heywood and his family after his return. Mrs. Heywood, his widow, has in her possession some affecting com- munications from himself, his sisters, and others interested in his case. That lady, who cherishes her late husband's memory with reverence and affection, kindly placed in the hands of the author papers and letters throwing light on the severe trials, as well as on the amiable and honourable character of Mr^ Heywood. With regard to the rescued Prayer-book, she said that her dear husband had often found it a source of much comfort under his afflictions. This little work would be incomplete without some further notice of one, who was enabled, by the good providence of God, in whom he trusted, to live down the scandal and heavy imputa- tions, which, in consequence of his position and circumstances, in relation to other and older men, had fallen upon him in his youth. The following letters, which are classed according to their dates, cannot be read without emotion. Heywood was now a prisoner on board the Hector , at Portsmouth, awaiting his trial. " Escaped with life, in tatters," as the sea-song has it, he had reached Spithead, distressed and moneyless. The cheap and poor suit of nankeen in which the youth was clad, he had bought out of the produce of some straw hats made by himself, whilst his hands were in manacles. 78 LETTERS. Commodore Pasley to Mr. P, Heywood. "SHEERNESS, July 1st, 1792. " I have, by this day's post, my dear young friend, written to my friend, Sir Andrew Ham- mond, to supply you with money, or what else you may want at present. In a day or two you shall hear from me particularly in answer to your letter. I have seen Mr. Fryer and Cole. Rest assured of every exertion in my power to serve you. Let me hear from you, and be particular in anything in which you think I can serve you. Bear your present situation with patience and firmness. Adieu ! May God grant that your innocence may be made clear, which will make happy your family and your affectionate uncle, " THOS. PASLEY." Heywood wrote a letter to his sisters, dated July 12, 1792, HfM. S. Hector, Portsmouth; beginning, " My beloved sisters all." In this he expresses his delight at hearing from them all, and alludes to a plan which his sister Nessy had projected for a visit to him, on \ board the Hector: " Oh, my Nessy, it grieves me to think I must be under the necessity, how- ever heart-breaking to myself, of desiring you will relinquish your most affectionate design of coming to see me. It is too long and tedious a journey; and, even on your arrival, you would not be allowed the wished- for happiness, both to you and myself, of seeing, much less conversing with your unfortunate brother. The rules of the LETTERS. 79 service are so strict, that prisoners are not per- mitted to have any communication with female relations." Two days after writing this letter, he addressed the following communication to Mrs. Bligh, who was then in London, Captain Bligh having, at that time, sailed for Otaheite, on his second commission for bread-fruit plants. The reader will observe with interest the poor youth's allusion to his clothes, which he had left in London nearly five years before, and which he seems to have wanted in time for his trial. " His MAJESTY'S SHIP, Hector, PORTSMOUTH. July Uth, 1792. " DEAR MADAM, I make no doubt you have already heard of my arrival here as a prisoner, to answer for my conduct done on the day that unfortunate mutiny happened which deprived Captain Bligh of his ship, and I then feared, of life; but, thank God, it is otherwise, and I sincerely congratulate you, Madam, upon his safe, and almost miraculous, arrival in England. I hope ere this you have heard of the cause of my determination to remain in the ship ; which was unknown to Captain Bligh, who, unable to con- jecture the reason, did, as I have reason to fear (I must say, naturally), conclude, or rather sus- pect, me likewise to have been a coadjutor, in that unhappy affair. But God only knows how little I merited so unjust a suspicion, if such a suspicion ever entered his breast. My thorough consciousness of never having merited it, makes me sometimes flatter myself that he could scarcely 80 LETTERS. be so cruel ; and ere long, let me hope, I shall have an equitable tribunal to plead at ; before which (through God's assistance), I shall have it in my power to proclaim my innocence, and clear up my long-injured character before the world. " I hear he has gone out again ; if so, may he have all the success he can wish! Alas, Madam, I yesterday heard of the melancholy news of the death of your best of parents. I heartily condole with you for his loss. In him I lost the most kind friend and advocate, whose memory I shall for ever revere with the highest veneration. " I have one request to ask of you, Madam, which is, that you will be so obliging as to in- quire whether Mrs. Duncan, in Little Hermitage Street, has in her possession the clothes which, if you remember, I left with her in 1787; and gave you an order, by which you might at any time get them from her ; so that if they are still there, you will be so good as to send them down here directing them for me, ' On board his Ma- jesty's ship Hector, to the care of Sergeant William Clayfield, Marines, Portsmouth, or elsewhere. 7 But if you can hear no tidings of them or her, you will honour with a few lines your much obliged, obedient, and humble servant, "PETER HEYWOOD." He soon afterwards received from his three sisters replies to his letter of July 12th. These were on one sheet : the first was from his eldest sister : LETTERS* 81 Miss Heywood to Mr. Peter Heywood. " ISLE OF MAN, July 17, 1792, "How can I sufficiently thank you, my dearest and most beloved boy, for your kind attention in remembering me, when I should have been the first to welcome you on your arrival in England ! It is as impossible for you to conceive, as for me to express, the pleasure and satisfaction we felt on receipt of your several letters. James had your favour by the same packet which brought mine. What infinite obligations are we under, my dearest Peter, to Mr. Heywood, and his amiable daughter, Mrs. Bertie! To her kind and maternal attention you owe the re-establishment of your precious health, that blessing without which there is no real en- joyment in this life. And let it be, my dear bi other, our future study to render ourselves de- serving of, though it will be impossible to repay, such friendship. God grant your innocence may be, by your acquittal, speedily known to the world ! I never for a moment doubted it ; nor if it was in the smallest degree suspected, would you, my dearest boy, be sustained and supported by so many friends, who, I am convinced, will do everything in their power for you. How anxiously do we all wish for the time when we shall have the inexpressible happiness of embracing you in the Isle of Man! May that period be very, very near; and may that Almighty Providence which has hitherto pre- served you, watch over and protect you at the F 2 82 LETTERS. awful moment of trial ! My mamma, brothers, and sisters join in most affectionate love and ardent wishes for your safety. That you, my beloved boy, may have a speedy end to all your difficulties and distresses, and be again restored to your adoring family, is the unceasing prayer of your most sincere friend and affectionate sister, "MARY HEYWOOD." The following was from Miss Eliza Hey wood: " How extremely happy would my beloved brother make me, if, when he has time, he would favour me with a few lines ! I assure you I should be quite proud of the honour ; and, as you have written to Mary, James, and Nessy, my turn must come next, or I shall feel jealous. Heaven grant we may soon embrace you in the island ! You may expect to be almost suffocated with caresses for the first week. Adieu ! Take care of your health, and keep up your spirits, my dear Peter. Your affectionate and faithful sister, >" ELIZA HEYWOOD." Nessy added these few lines: "For me there is no room left, but to say that his faithful and affectionate Nessy sends ten thousand blessings, the best which Heaven can bestow, and every wish that love and friendship can dictate, to her best beloved brother. PETER. " Then came the trial, and the conviction ! The first clause of the 19th Article of War (22d Geo. II.) is this : " If any person in or TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS. 83 belonging to the fleet shall make, or endeavour to make, any mutinous assembly, on any pretence whatever ; every person offending herein, and being convicted thereof, by the sentence of the court-martial, shall suffer Death." The court-martial was held at Portsmouth, ,on board his Majesty's ship Duke } on the 12th September, 1792. Vice- Admiral Lord Hood was the President. The officers who sat at the trial were Captains Sir A. S. Hammond, Bart., John Colpoys, Sir Geo. Montagu, Sir Koger Curtis, John Bazeley, Sir Andrew S. Douglas, John T, Duckworth, John N. Inglefield, John Knight, Albemarle Bertie, E. G. Keats. The names of the ten prisoners, capitally charged with mutiny and piracy, were, Peter Heywood, James Morrison, Thomas Ellison, Thomas Burkitt, John Millward, William Mus- pratt, Charles Norman, Joseph Coleman, Thomas M'Intosh, and Michael Byrne. The trial was concluded on the sixth day, the 18th of September, when the prisoners were brought in. The court having agreed, that the charges of running away with the ship, and deserting his Majesty's service, had been proved against six of the prisoners, they found Heywood, Morrison, Ellison, Burkitt, Millward, and Mus- pratt, guilty; and adjudged them to suffer death by being hanged by the neck on board one of his Majesty's ships of war. The court acquitted Norman, Coleman, M'In- tosh, and Byrne ; and recommended Peter Heywood and James Morrison to his Majesty's mercv. 84 LETTERS. Two days afterwards, the youthful convict wrote the following letter to the Rev. Dr. Scott y of the Isle of Man, who was a friend of the- Hey wood family : Mr. Peter Hey wood to Dr. Scott. " HECTOR, Sept. 20th, 1792. " HONOURED AND DEAR SIR, On Wednes- day, the 12th, the awful trial commenced ; and on that day, when in court, I had the pleasure of receiving your most kind and parental letter, in answer to which I now communicate to you the melancholy issue of it, which, as I desired, my friend Mr. Graham to inform you of imme- diately, will be no dreadful news to you. The morning lours, and all my hope of worldly joy is fled far from me. On Tuesday morning, the 18th inst., the dreadful sentence of Death was pronounced upon me ; to which (being the just decree of that Divine Providence who first gave me breath) I bow my devoted head, with that fortitude, cheerfulness, and resignation which is the duty of every member of the Church of our blessed Saviour and Redeemer Christ Jesus. To Him alone I now look *up for succour, in full hope, that perhaps a few days more will open to the view of my astonished and fearful soul His kingdom of eternal and incomprehensible bliss, prepared only for the righteous of heart. " I have not been found guilty of the slightest act of the detestable crime of mutiny, but am doomed to die for not being active in my endea- vour to suppress it. Could the evidences who appeared in the court-martial be tried, they LETTERS. 85 would also suffer for the same and only crime of which I have been guilty. But I am to be the victim. Alas I my youthful inexperience, and no depravity of will, is the sole cause to which I can attribute my misfortunes. But so far from repining at my fate, I received it with a dreadful kind of joy, composure, and serenity of mind, well assured that it has pleased God to point me out as a subject through whom some greatly useful (though, at present, unsearch- able) intention of the Divine attributes may be carried into execution for the future benefit of my country. Then why should I repine at being made a sacrifice for the good of perhaps thousands of my fellow- creatures ? Forbid it, Heaven ! Why should I be sorry to leave a world in which I have met with nothing but misfortunes, and all their concomitant evils ? " I will, on the contrary, endeavour to dives fc myself of all wishes for the futile and sublunary enjoy menis of it, and prepare my soul for its reception into the bosom of its Eedeemer. " For though the very strong recommenda- tion I have had to his Majesty's mercy by all the members of the court may meet with his approbation, yet that is but the balance of a straw, a mere uncertainty upon which no hope can be built. The other is a certainty which must one day happen to every mortal. There- fore the salvation of my soul requires my most powerful exertions, during the short time I may have to remain on earth. " As this is too tender a subject for me to inform my unhappy and distressed mother and 86 HEYWOOD IN PRISON. sisters of, I trust, dear sir, you will either show them this letter, or make known to them the truly dreadful intelligence, in such a manner as, assisted by your wholesome and paternal advice, may enable them to bear it with Christian for- titude. The only worldly feelings I am now possessed of are for their happiness and welfare. But even these, in my present situation, I must endeavour, with God's assistance, to eradicate from my heart, how hard soever the task. I must strive against cherishing any temporal affec- tions. But, dear sir, endeavour to mitigate my distressed mother's sorrow. Give my everlast- ing duty to her, and unabated love to my dis- consolate brothers and sisters, and all their relations. I have encouraged them, by my example, to bear up with fortitude and resig- nation to the Divine will, under their load of misfortunes, almost too great for female nature to support. And teach them to be fully per- suaded that all hopes of happiness on earth are vain. On my own account I still enjoy the most easy serenity of mind, and am, dearest sir, your greatly indebted and most dutiful, but ill-fated, "PETER HEYWOOD.' 7 It was natural for a young man, whose spirit had been well-nigh broken by sorrows of dif- ferent kinds, to view his case on the dark side. Many circumstances had, indeed, come out in his favour. Bligh, when writing to Colonel Holwell, an uncle of Peter's, said, " His conduct had always given me much pleasure and satis- STATE OF THE TIMES. 8t faction." But then it had been alleged at the trial, that he had assisted in hoisting out the launch ; that he had been seen by the carpenter resting his hand on a cutlass ; and that he had laughed, on being called to by Blight His comments on these charges were forwarded by him to Lord Chatham, who then presided at the Admiralty. The explanations are very satis- factory, having the air of truth throughout. But he knew the unfavourable construction that might be put on doubtful acts ; and he was aware that he had been neutral on an occasion of trial and danger. Besides this, as a thoughtful person, he could not but be alive to the danger of his position, from the peculiar features of the offence of which he had been convicted. The year 1792 is me- morable for the active exertions of revolutionists and disaffected men in this country, on the one hand, and for the associations of zealous friends of the British constitution, on the other. It was the avowed object of the latter to coun- teract all seditious proceedings, and to bring to punishment persons concerned in them. The authority of the lawful magistrate, and the claims of the established government, were to be respected and supported. The example of France, whilst it excited some eager spirits ^ in the British empire to a love of change and in- surrection, animated others to more energetic efforts for the maintenance of order. In the^ city of Paris, shortly before the execution of Louis the Sixteenth, Koyalty had been declared to be abolished for ever ; and it happened that 88 SfiTE OF THE TIMES. the 20th of September, 1792, the very day on which poor Heywood wrote the above admirable letter, was styled the first day of the French Kepublic. The state ' of the times, therefore, tended to mark the crime imputed to him with a yet deeper dye. JS T or could the sufferer be ignorant of some then recent cases, short of murder, in which, amidst extenuating circumstances, and conse- quent appeals to mercy, the law had been allowed to run its course, and the capital sen- tence to pass into full effect. Who that, at that time, bore in mind the instance of the unhappy Dr Dodd, and remembered that all entreaties, and even Dr. Johnson's powerful and affecting appeal in his behalf, had been made in vain,* could rest with confidence on the strength of the intercession of any man ? Now, however, some intimations from high quarters began to inspire greater hope in Hey- wood and his friends. His amiable sister Nessy, anxious to see him, and to be of use, resolved to accept the invitation given by a friend of her family, Mr. A. Graham, and to make her way up to London, where he resided. This gentleman had been a purser in the navy, and was afterwards a valuable police magistrate in London. On the 3d of October, 1792, we find Nessy arrived at Liverpool from the Isle of Man^ and writing thus to her mother and family : * The original draft of a petition, in Dr. Johnson's hand- writing, is among the Manuscripts in the British Museum. The document is short, pithy, and persuasive. LETTERS. 89 " We did not arrive here till noon this day, after a most tempestuous passage of forty-nine hours, with the wind directly contrary the whole way. Yet notwithstanding that vexatious cir- cumstance, hard boards, aching bones in conse- quence, together with passing two nights almost without closing my eyes, let me but be blessed with the cheering influence of Hope, and I have spirit to undertake anything. The plaid was a most comfortable thing to me . I wrapped it round my head. At the mouth of the river, this morning, we met a small open fishing-boat, into which I got, as I was told I should, by that means, arrive two hours sooner than I should otherwise have done ; and as the sea was very high, every wave washed over me, and I had a complete wetting. On my arrival, I found poor Henry had sailed two days ago. I regret I did not come in time to see him, but I rejoice to find he went off in good spirits ; and his last words mentioned Peter ! I have been myself to secure a place in the mail-coach, and hope to be by ten o'clock to-night on my road to (may I not hope ?) the completion of all my earthly happi- ness. Mr. Southcote, whom I passed at sea, will inform you that the pardon went down to the King at Weymouth some days ago. May we not, then, encourage a hope that I shall find all our misfortunes at an end ? When I was tempted to repine at the winds, I remembered that they were favourable for Henry ; I reflected on Peter's sufferings, and was content. Adieu, my dearest mamma, and sisters ! God bless you all! In your prayers for our beloved and ex- 90 LETTERS. emplaiy sufferer, add a word or two for your most dutiful and affectionate, " NESSY HEYWOOD." On the same day she wrote to Mr. Graham on the subject which was nearest to her heart, and which had determined her to visit London ; and in a letter to her mother, dated the 5th October, Great Eussell Street, the hospitable residence at which she had arrived, she an- nounced her personal introduction to Mr. Gra- ham, and added . " Well, my dear Mamma, I have had a long conversation with Mr. Graham; and, to my utmost satisfaction, he says, ' I look upon him/ speaking of Peter, ' to be the most amiable young man that can possibly exist. I do not scruple to say, that I should not entirely believe you, as you may be partial ; but I speak from my own observation. He conducts himself in such a manner as will reflect the highest and most lasting honour on himself, and produce the strongest sensations of pleasure and satisfaction to his friends.' Mr. Graham assures me, that there is not a doubt existing in the mind of any person who has seen the minutes of the Court- Martial, respecting Peter's innocence.'' Mr. P. Heywood to Miss Nessy Heywood. -" HECTOK, October 16th, 1792. " I have this moment, by my brother James, my beloved sister's letter of yesterday, which gives me new pleasure, from the sentiments I find my dear mother, even now, entertains of LETTERS. 91 me ; notwithstanding the laws of my country have condemned me to be banished from this world, as a wretch unworthy to live in it. But what of that? Am I the first unhappy victim who has been torn from his dear family, his connexions, and his all, though conscious of his own integrity and thorough innocence of the crime for which his life must be the unjust forfeit ? No! Why then should I for a moment repine ? I do not, nor ever will ! For that idea alone, if placed on a good foundation, is sufficient to make any man so light that he can buoyantly float upon the ruffled tide of misfortune. And I own to you, my dearest sister, it is that only whicht now enables me to support my life and spirits, which, without it, would soon bend beneath the ponderous load under which I have long tottered. But by and by I shall, with God's assistance, throw it off; then all will be well, and then shall I be a joyful partaker of that bliss of which I can now have but a very faint idea ! Cheer up, then, my dear Nessy ! Cherish your hope, and I will exercise my patience ; both I know by experience to be pro- ductive of the same fruits of present content. James is gone to dine with Mr. Spranger, and I am employing my leisure hours in making a vocabulary of the Otaheitan language.* Whom- soever you write to at home, my love, remember me to them as I wish, and in particular, to our paternal friend, Mr. Graham. " Ever, my dearest sister, your most ardently affectionate, and truly faithful brother, " PETER HEYWOOD. 92 EOYAL FAMILY AT WEYMOUTH. " Keep up your dear spirits, above all things. Hope is yours and mine too." Mr. James Heywood to Miss Nessy Heywood " HECTOR, October 17th, 1792. " MY DEAR NESSY, While I write this, Peter is sitting > by me, making an Otaheitan voca- bulary, and so happy and intent upon it, that I have no opportunity of saying a word to him. He thinks, however, you must be very busy too, or you would not deprive us of the pleasure of paying fourpence every morning. You under- stand me This is the second day you have omitted it. I assure you he is at present in excellent spirits ; I am perfectly convinced they are better and better every day. Don't, my dear little ^Ness, suppose I tell you this merely to ease your mind. No, far from it ; you must be certain I 'am in earnest, else I would not write in r so" light a strain. Adieu, dear sister. Best compliments to Mr. and Miss Graham ; and believe me, ever affectionately yours, * c JAMES HEYWOOD." We know how the recommendation to mercy 'prevailed. 'King George was then enjoying a visit at Wey mouth, with the Queen and the royal family. It appears from the public records of that date, that he found pleasure in doing acts of kindness ; and doubtless this exercise of the royal prerogative was a cause of much inward satisfaction to the king "The quality of mercy is not strain'd; It droppeth as the gentle rain from heaven j THE KING PAKDONS HEYWOOD. 93 Upon the place beneath. It is twice blest ; It blesses him that gives and him that takes ; 'Tis mightiest in the mightiest ; it becomes The throned monarch better than his crown. His sceptre shows the force of temporal power, The attribute to awe and majesty, Wherein doth sit the dread and fear of kings : But mercy is above this sceptred sway ; It is enthroned in the hearts of kings, It is an attribute to God himself, And earthly power doth then show likest God's When mercy seasons justice." On the 24th of October, 1792, the royal warrant was despatched, granting a free pardon to Heywood and Morrison, with a respite for Muspratt. At the same time was sent a warrant for executing Burkitt, Ellison, and Millward. Muspratt was afterwards pardoned. Millward, and Muspratt, with Churchill, were the men who had been deserters at Otaheite, and who had been forgiven by Bligh for that offence. Burkitt had been forward in the mutiny on board the Bounty. Ellison, who was a mere boy on the occasion of that act of violence, is thus described in the list forwarded from Batavia in October, 1789: "Thomas Ellison, able seaman, aged 17 years, five feet three inches high, fair complexion, dark hair, strong made ; has got his name tattooed on his right arm, and dated October 25, 1788." Morrison, before his connexion with the Bounty, had served in the navy as a midship- man ; and, after his pardon, had been appointed gunner of the Blenheim, in which he perished with Admiral Sir Thomas Troubridge. In a violent gale on the 1st of February, 1807, that vessel foundered and was lost, with all the 94 EXECUTION OF THREE MUTINEERS. passengers and crew, on her way from Madras to the Cape of Good Hope. Sir T. Troubridge was one of our most gallant and efficient admirals, the friend of Nelson and St. Vincent. Burkitt, Ellison, and Millward were executed, pursuant to their sentence, on the 26th of Octo- ber, 1792, on board the ship Brunswick, in Ports- mouth Harbour. Captain Hammond reported, that the criminals had behaved with great penitence and decorum, had acknowledged the justice of their sentence, and exhorted their fellow-sailors to take warning by their untimely fate ; enjoining them, whatever might be their hardships, never to forget their obedience to their officers, but to remember the duty which they owed to their king and country. The Captain said that a party from each ship in the harbour, and at Spithead, had attended the execution ; and that, fronf the accounts he had received, the example seemed to have made a salutary impression on the minds of all the ships' companies present. The following words were used by Mr. Hey- wood, when Captain Montagu had read to him his Majesty's free and unconditional pardon, on the 27th of October : " SIR, When the sentence of the law was passed upon me, I received it, I trust, as became a man; and if it had been carried into execution, I should have met my fate, I hope, in a manner becoming a Christian. Your admonition cannot fail to make a lasting impression upon my mind. I receive with gratitude my sovereign's mercy, LETTERS. 95" for which my future life shall be faithfully devoted to his service." The pardon was a source of unspeakable de- light to his family, especially to his sister Nessy, whose peace of mind had been broken by the terror of losing him by an ignominious death, and whose joy, on hearing of his pardon, was, perhaps, more difficult to bear than her previous grief had been : " For sudden joys, like griefs, confound at first." She had written to her mother and sisters on the 26th, enclosing a statement of the pardon having been transmitted to Portsmouth. In this letter she said, " blessed hour ! Little did I. think, my beloved friends, when I closed my letter this morning, that before night I should be out of my senses with joy. This moment, this ecstatic moment, brought the enclosed. I cannot speak my happiness. I am too mad to write sense ; but 'tis a pleasure I would not forego to be the most reasonable being on earth." In this way the family received the delightful intelligence ; and the warm-hearted and untiring Mr. Graham, unable to remain easy at home, hastened to Portsmouth to congratulate his young friend, and bring him to London. * Nothing can be more hearty or natural .than the 'folio wing:; A. Graham. Esf to M iss N. Hey wood. "PORTSMOUTH, Oct. Wh, 1792.. " MY DEAREST NESSY, " If you expect me to enter into particulars as to how I got him, when I got him, and where I have him, you will be disappointed ; for that G 93 LETTERS. is not in my power at present. Suffice it to say that he is now with me, and well ; not on board the HECTOR, but at the house of a very worthy man. To-day we dine with Mr. Delafons ; to- morrow we shall, perhaps, sleep on the London road; and on Tuesday, Oh, my dear little girl! Kiss Maria for me, and tell her I love her dearly; and am, Yours most affectionately, "A. GRAHAM." To this letter the following postscript was added : From Peter Heywood to Nessy. " P.S. Be patient, my dearest Nessy. A few hours, and you will embrace your long-lost and most affectionate brother, " PETER HEYWOOD." Mr. Graham's impatience, and generous anxiety to crown this joyful event, would not permit him to delay one moment ; and on the Monday morning, the happy party arrived in London. On the 29th October a letter was written apprising the anxious mother of her dear sailor boy's arrival in London. Another letter, written after poor Nessy had seen him at liberty, breathes the tenderest feelings of a heart almost breaking with joy. It is thus headed : " Great Russell Street. Monday Morning, 29th Oct., half-past ten o'clock, the brightest moment of my existence," and ends thus : " I can write no more, but to tell you, that the three happiest beings at this moment on earth are your most dutiful and affectionate NESSY HEYWOOD'S TALENTS O 97 children, NESSY HEYWOOD, PETER HEYWOOD. JAMES HEYWOOD." This amiable girl possessed, among other accomplishments, poetic powers of no common order. There remain in manuscript many copies of verses of her composition on various subjects ; though her theme of themes was her brother, his sufferings, and his restoration to liberty and honour. The following are among the lines which she wrote, " On receiving certain intelligence that my most amiable and beloved brother, Peter Heywood, would soon be restored to freedom:"* blissful hour ! moment of delight ! Replete with happiness, with rapture bright. An age of pain is sure repaid by this ; 'Tis joy too great 'tis ecstasy of bliss. My beating heart, oppress'd with woe and care, Has yet to learn such happiness to bear. From grief, distracting grief, thus high to soar, To know dull pain and misery no more, To hail each op'ning morn with new delight, To rest in peace and joy each happy night, To see my Lycidas from bondage free, Restored to life, to pleasure, and to me ; To see him thus, adorn' d with virtue's charms, To give him to a longing mother's arms, To know him by surrounding friends caress'd, Of honour, fame, of life's best gifts possess'd ; Oh, my full heart ! 'tis joy, 'tis bliss supreme, And though 'tis real, yet, how like a dream ! Then teach me, Heav'n, to bear it as I ought ; Inspire each rapt'rous, each transporting thought Teach me to bend beneath Thy bounteous hand, With gratitude my willing heart expand : To Thy Omnipotence I humbly bow, Afflicted once but ah ! how happy now ! What reader does not wish to learn more about Nessy Hey wood? In less than a year G2 98 DEATH OF NESSY HEYWOOD. after her beloved brother's liberation, whilst still in her youthful days, she was called away from taking a part in this busy, anxious world. It no longer remained for her to " rejoice with them that do rejoice, and weep with them that weep/' Active and alert no more in the service of those she loved, she was to seek her occu- pation and comfort in her sick chamber; and there is reason to believe, that, trusting in her Redeemer's merits, and daily preparing for eter- nity, she found consolation in true religion, without which the ties of affection must, she knew, be utterly dissolved, the enjoyment de- rived from it pass away for ever. In the manuscript collection, from which the above letters and verses have been extracted, is a memorandum by Mrs. Hey wood (Peter's mother) in her own handwriting, dated, Douglas, Isle of Man, shortly after Nessy's death. " My dearest Nessy was seized, while on a visit at Major Yorke's, at Bishop's Grove, near Tun- bridge Wells, with a violent cold ; and, not taking proper care of herself, it soon turned to inflammation on her lungs, which carried her off at Hastings, to which place she was taken on the 5th of September, to try if the change of air, and being near the sea, would recover her. But, alas ! it was too late for her to receive thej wished-for benefit, and she died there on the 25th of the same month, 1793, and has left her only surviving parent a disconsolate mother, to lament, while ever she lives, with the most sincere affliction, the irreparable loss of her most valuable, affectionate, darling daughter." CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEY WOOD. 99 Having, on his release, visited his family and friends, Mr, Heywood, as soon as his health was completely restored, re-entered the navy, by the desire of Captain Pasley (afterwards Sir Thomas Pasley, Bart ), and on the express recommenda- tion of Lord Hood, who had presided at his court-martial. Indeed, Lord Hood offered to take him under his own immediate patronage ; but this was declined with thanks by Captain Pasley, who, on the 17th May, 1793, received him under his own command, into the Bellerophon. In consideration of the King's free pardon, it was decided that no incapacity existed for his thus again fully undertaking the duties of his profession. In January, 1797, after he had done his duty in several actions with the French fleet, Earl Spencer, who had attentively considered the several points connected with the court-martial of 1792, wrote to Sir Thomas Pasley, to say that those circumstances ought not to be allowed to stand in the way of Mr. Hey wood's further progress in his profession; "more especially," said his lordship, u when the gallantry and pro- priety of his conduct, in his subsequent service, are taken into consideration, I shall therefore have no difficulty in mentioning him to the com* mander-in-chief on the station to which he be- longs, as a person from whose promotion, on a pro- per opportunity, I shall derive much satisfaction." He became a Post-Captain in 1803 ; and, after a career of important and responsible service, including two diplomatic missions to South 'America, was, on the 29th July, 1813, appointed to the command of the Montagu, of 74 guns, in 'which he served . in_ the North Sea, and after- 100 CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOD, wards in the Mediterranean, under the command of Lord Exmouth. On Captain Hey wood's return, the Montagu was paid off at Chatham, on the 16th July, 1816; and ne came ashore, after having been actively employed at sea twenty-seven years, six months, one week, and five days, out of a service in the navy of twenty-nine years, seven months, and one day. On the 18th May, 1818, Lord Melville, with- out any solicitation, made him the offer of the command, with a Commodore's broad pendant, on the lakes in Canada. A considerable salary was annexed to this important office; but as he had married in 1816, and there was no war requiring his active exertions for the benefit of his country, Captain Heywood, with Lord Melville's permission, declined the proffered honour; and he afterwards found his chief happiness in the bosom of his family. His career of activity being now at an end in an honourable profes- sion, which had acknowledged and appreciated a life of useful labour, his early afflictions, the sufferings of body and mind, began to tell upon his constitution. It is thought, that during the period of his imprisonment, the seeds were sown of the lingering and painful disorder (an enlarge- ment of the heart) which terminated his existence. In the description which was drawn up at Timor, in 1789, he was represented as "a mid- shipman, aged seventeen years,, five feet seven inches high, fair complexion, brown hair, well proportioned, very much tattooed. At this time he has not done growing ; and he speaks with the Manks, or Isle of Man, accent,;! DEATH OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOP. . 10 1 He had not done growing. .Whilst his body ripened into manhood, the iron entered into his soul. This valuable and excellent officer, having reached nearly the top of the list of captains, and being near the rank of Admiral, died in London on the 10th February, 1831, in his fifty- eighth year. He was buried in a vault under Highgate Chapel. There is not room in these pages for an enumeration of his professional services ^ but this deficiency may be supplied by the following passage respecting him in Marshall's Naval Biography: "The misfortunes of his youth proved highly beneficial to him. The greater part of those distinguished officers who had sat as members of the court-martial, justly consi- dering him much more unfortunate than criminal, extended their patronage to him immediately after his release ; and through their good offices, and his own meritorious behaviour, he was subsequently advanced, step by step, to the rank he at present holds. The duties which have fallen to his share he has ever performed with a zeal not inferior to that of any other officer in the service. The young men who have had the honour of serving under him, many of whom now enjoy commissions, will readily and grate- fully acknowledge, that, both by precept and his own example, he invariably endeavoured to form their characters, as men and officers, in the solid principles of religion and virtue. We do not hesitate to say, that his king and country never had a more faithful servant, nor the naval service a more worthy and respectable member.'' 102 TESTIMONIES TO, HIS CHARACTER. How zealously must he have laboured in his profession ! How great must have been the pro- fessional merits of one, who could have earned, at the age of forty- three, such ample testimonies to his worth! The reader may wish to know something of Captain Heywood's personal appearance. His figure was well-proportioned, and rather above the middle height. His features were regular and good, and indicative of a calm, observant, and re- flecting mind. In conversation his countenance was lighted up with cheerfulness and vivacity. This chapter cannot conclude better than with a spirited stanza from a copy of verses, written by one of the Montagus crew, and sent to Captain Heywood, by desire of the whole ship's company, when that vessel was put out of com- mission in 1816 : ' Farewell to thee, HEYWOOD ! a truer one never Hath exercised rule o'er the sons of the wave ; The seamen who served thee would s^rve thee for ever, Who swav'cl, but ne'er fetter'd, the hearts of the brave." CHAPTER IV. CHRISTIAN AND HIS PARTY PITCAIRN'S ISLAND FOLGER T S ACCOUNT LANDING OF NINE MUTINEERS AND OF OTAHEI- TANS AT PITCAIRN DREADFUL DEATHS OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS INTOLERABLE STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN INTEMPERANCE JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS HIS REPENTANCE AND REFORMATION HIS SERVICES IN THE CAUSE OF RELIGION AND MORALITY IN THE ISLAND. To return to the nine missing mutineers. Nothing more was heard of Fletcher Christian and his party, until twenty years had passed from the date of the mutiny when Sir Sidney Smith, then commander-in-chief on the Brazil station, informed the Admiralty, from Bio Ja- neiro, that Captain Folger, of the ship Topaz, of Boston, United States, on landing on Pitcairn's Island, in 1808, had found an Englishman, named Alexander Smith, the only person re- maining of nine that had sailed in the Bounty. Smith, otherwise John Adams (he having, on first entering the service, assumed the name of Alexander Smith), related, that after putting Bligh. into the boat, Christian, with the other mutineers, had gone to Otaheite, where all hands remained, but Christian, Smith, and seven others; that each had taken an Otaheitan wife, and then proceeded to Piteairn, where they had made good a landing, and afterwards destroyed the Bounty. . 104 PITCAIEN'S ISLAND. Before they were discovered by Captain Folger, in September, 1808, two ships had been seen from the island. A boat from one landed, and the crew carried off some cocoa- nuts, but quitted before the inhabitants could communicate with them. Captain Folger, on his approach, was surprised to see smoke, and signs of houses, as he had thought the island uninhabited ; but he was more astonished on seeing canoes, and on finding himself hailed in good English by the men, who invited him to land. This he at first declined ; but one of the Topaz men, a native of England, offered to go on shore, if the ship were allowed to come near the rocks, so that he might swim off if attacked. He went cautiously on shore, and soon met John Adams, who, like the new comer, felt some suspicions. Each, in fact, doubted the designs of the other; till Adams very soon became satisfied of the peaceful inten- tions of the visitor. Observing that the man had a slovenly and neglected beard, he asked him, Why he did not shave ? Without waiting for a reply, Adams sent one of the young natives for his razors, which were brought, and the man having undergone the operation with some alarm and apprehension, returned as quickly as possible to the ship. The captain then came on shore, and remained the greater part of th6 day. He took the opportunity of giving Adams an account of the many and great naval battles in which England had been engaged, and of the various victories which she had gained. What a glorious catalogue, including Camperdown, PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 105 Copenhagen, St. "Vincent, the Nile, and Tra- falgar ! At the end of the narrative, Adams gave a loud cheer, shouting, at the top of his voice, " Old England for ever ! " The visit of Captain Folger introduces us to Pitcairn's Island, and its inhabitants. The reader may now desire to learn the origin of its name, and the circumstances of its first discovery by British navigators. Captain Philip Carteret, in his description of a Voyage round the World, wrote as follows, July, 1767 : " We continued our course westward till the evening of Thursday, the 2d of July, when we discovered land to the northward of us. Upon approaching it the next day, it appeared like a great rock rising out of the sea. It was not more than five miles in circumference, and seemed to be uninhabited. It was, however, covered with trees ; and we saw a small stream of fresh water running down one side of it. I would have landed upon it, but the surf, which at this season broke upon it with great violence, rendered it impossible. I got soundings on the west side of it, at somewhat less than a mile from the shore, in twenty-five fathoms, with a bottom of coral and sand ; and it is probable that in fine summer weather landing here may not only be practicable, but easy. We saw a great number of sea-birds hovering about it, at some- what less than a mile from the shore; and the sea here seemed to have fish. It lies in lat. 20' 2' south; long. 133 21 west.* It is so * The latitude and longitude are here wrongly stated. 106 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. high, that we saw it at the distance of more than fifteen leagues ; and it having been discovered by a young gentleman, son to Major Pitcairn, of the marines, we called it PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. This young man was unfortunately lost in the Aurora.* While we were in the neighbouihood of this island, the weather was extremely tem- pestuous, with long rolling billows from the southward, larger and higher than any I had seen before. The winds were variable, but blew chiefly from the SS.W., W. and W.N.W. We had very seldom a gale to the eastward ; so that we were prevented from keeping in a high south latitude, and were constantly driving to the northward." f Pitcairn's Island, distant about 1,200 miles from Otaheite, is of volcanic origin. The pecu- liar features of the volcanic islands, of which there are several in the South Seas, show that they have been elevated from the bed of the ocean by the resistless force of fire, which has given a vertical character, and jagged outline, to their rocky mountains, and greatly increased the wild beauties of their scenery. Pitcairn is in latitude 25 4' south, and longitude 130 8' west; and the highest point is about 1,008 feet above the level of the sea. In clear weather the island may be seen at forty miles' distance. It is four miles and a half in circumference, one * His father, Major Pitcairn, was killed at the battle of Bunker's Hill, in America, in 1775. t Voyage round the World, by Captain P, Carteret, Com- mander of H.M. Sloop Swallow, in 1766-7-8-9, Passage from Mas-afuera to Queen Charlotte's Islands, chap. lii. PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 107 mile "and a 'half being the greatest length. The climate, which is just without the tropics, is adapted for the production of useful vegetables, which form the chief article of food : Irish and sweet potatoes, yams, bread-fruit, a vegetable called taro (Arum esculentum), pumpkins, Indian maize, and beans. Here and there are patches of the tobacco -plant, and sugar-canes. The fruits are pines, plantains, and bananas, oranges, limes, melons, a species of apple, and cocoa-nuts. Among the trees are the cocoa-nut (Cocos nuci- fera) ; the Plantain (Musa paradisiacd) ; the Bread-fruit tree (Artocarpus incisd) ; the Nono (Morinda citrifolia), &c. ; but the most striking and remarkable is the Banyan (Ficus Indica) : ' ** The fig-tree ; not that kind for fruit renown d, But such as at this day to India known, In Malabar or Deecan, spreads her arms, Branching so broad and long, that in the ground The bended twig takes root, and daughters grow About the mother-tree, a pillar'd shade, High over-reach'd, and echoing walks between. There oft the Indian herdsman, shunning heat, Shelters in cool, and tends his pasturing herds At loop-holes cut through thickest shade." MlLTON." The temperature of Pitcairn ranges from 59 in winter to 87 in summer. The average is 65 in winter, and 82 in summer. The vege- tation sometimes suffers from swarms of insects. To remedy this evil, there having been on the island only one species of land bird, a small fly- catcher, it was thought desirable to convey some birds to the spot. Her Majesty's Ship, Virago, Commander Prevost, left Callao for Pitcairn, in 108 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. January, 1853, having on board singing-birds, rose-trees, myrtles, &c. for the islanders. There are lizards, but no venomous reptiles on the island. The people are annoyed by rats, which do much damage to the sugar-canes. Hence the strictness of the law for preserving cats, which remains to be noticed in a future page. About half the island, consisting of six hun- dred acres, is cultivated. The rest is too rocky for cultivation. There being but little beach, the quantity of sea-weed washed up is small : such as there is, however, is employed for the use of the ground. Though the climate cannot be called un- healthy, the people are not generally long-lived. Arthur Quintal, sen., the. oldest man now among them (1856) , is about sixty years old. Elizabeth Young, daughter of the late John Mills, the oldest person on the island, is sixty-four, she having been born in 1792. The ailments to which the islanders are most subject are, rheumatism, in- fluenza, bilious affections, and diseases of the heart. Nature has fortified the coast with powerful barriers, which render the island most difficult of access, except in Bounty Bay, situate on the north-east side ; and even there the approach is impossible when the sea is high. The ships, which occasionally remain awhile in the neigh- bourhood of the island, and for which there is abundance of water, stand off and on as well as they may, and as the wind allows them. Though soundings in from 25 to 35 fathoms . PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 109 may be obtained at some distance, anchorage is seldom resorted to, the state of the ground being such as to cause a risk of losing the anchor. Lofty bristling rocks, one of which is called St. Paul's Point, rise perpendicularly from the sea ; and cliffs, with clumps of cocoa-nut trees at their base, are seen, as the boats approach the beach, which is shingly, and very narrow at the place of landing. The landing is effected in the boats of the natives ; these being better suited than ships' boats for passing the breakers. " Having set foot on shore," says Mr. Brodie, who was there in March, 1850, " you ascend a steep hill, almost a cliff, for about three hundred yards, to a table -land, planted with cocoa-nut trees, which is called the market-place, about a quarter of a mile beyond which, at the north end of the island, lies the settlement, flanked by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, kumeras, plantains, &c. which make the approach very picturesque." * Though the island, according to Captain Car- teret, owes its name to young Mr. Pitcairn, he having been the first native of this kingdom who noted the place, it was doubtless once known by some other name, which is now lost. All traces of its former inhabitants have also disappeared. A few human skeletons, idols, and weapons were discovered there by the mutineers. Thus it has become a clear matter of fact, that the island was inhabited previously to their arrival. Overlooking Bounty Bay is a lofty peak, within 100 yards of which were found on a rock four * Pitcairn's Island and the Islanders, in 1850. By Walter Brodie. 110 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, images, about six feet in height, placed upon a platform, which is called a paipai. One of these was a rude representation of the human figure, to the hips, hewn out of a piece of red lava. Each of the skulls which were dug up had under it a pearl-shell, according to the mode of burial adopted in the place at the time, pro- bably some centuries since. It has been sug- ' gested with reason, that the ancient occupants were drifted to this place from the Gambler, or other islands, on a raft. Several specimens of. hatchets, and spear-heads of very hard stone, and a large stone bowl, were discovered. The mutineers also found in .a cavern situate in the face of a cliff, on the east side of the island, certain uncouth carvings of the sun, moon, stars, a bird, men, &c. .- , There are some inaccuracies in the narrative forwarded by Captain Folger, in his letter of March 1, 1813, respecting his visit to the island. He stated that about six years after the arrival of the nine mutineers, the Otaheitans had killed all the Englishmen except Smith (Adams), who was severely wounded ; and that on the same night the Otaheitan widows had risen, and murdered all their countrymen, leaving only Smith, with the widows and children. His account may be corrected by the following statement : After getting rid of Mr. Bligh and his crew, the mutineers sailed from Toubouai, an island about 500 miles south of Otaheite, where they intended to land ; but the natives refusing to admit them, they proceeded to Otaheite. A LIST OF THE MUTINEERS. Ill second ineffectual attempt at settling having been made on Toubouai, and a refuge having again been found, for a short time, at Otaheite, Christian and eight of his comrades left for Pitcairn, in the Bounty, with certain Otaheitans, the rest of the mutineers remaining at Otaheite. It happened that Carteret's printed description of Pitcairn had been on board the Bounty ; and this probably determined Christian in his choice. Carteret, however, as will have been seen, was wrong in his description of the latitude and longitude of the island. When the Bounty arrived at Pitcairn's Island, she had on board nine Englishmen, with their nine Otaheitan wives, and six Otaheitan men, three of whom had wives with them. These, with a little Otaheitan girl, made twenty-eight persons who landed. This little child, then an infant of ten months old, was afterwards the wife of Charles Christian, and the mother of Mrs. G. H. Nobbs ! The names of the nine mutineers who reached the island in the Bounty were FLETCHER CHRISTIAN .... Master's Mate. EDWARD YOUNG Midshipman. JOHN MILLS Gunner's Mate. MATTHEW QUINTAL Able Seaman. WILLIAM M'CoY Ditto. - ALEXANDER SMITH, alias JOHN ) -p..,, ADAMS ( JOHN WILLIAMS Ditto. ISAAC MARTIN Ditto. WILLIAM BROWN Gardener. Christian and Young were men of good edu- cation. The former was the brother of Edward Christian, Esq., Professor of Law at Cambridge, H 112 MURDER OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS. Chief Justice of Ely, and Editor of Blackstone's Commentaries. Young was a nephew of Sir George Young, Bart. The other mutineers who landed at Pitcairn were chiefly sailors of the ordinary class. They had not long set foot upon the island, ere it became a stage for the display of every evil passion. They were " hateful, and hating one another." During the frightful period of domestic warfare between the Europeans and the blacks, in which the former often adopted the tremendously simple rule of might against right, the blacks made common cause together ; and having planned the murder of their impe- rious masters, they went, from time to time, into the woods to practise shooting at a mark, and thus became tolerably good marksmen. Their murderous plot reached the ears of the wives of the mutineers ; and the females are said to have disclosed it to their husbands, just before the time appointed for the massacre, by adding to one of their songs these words, 14 Why does black man sharpen axe? To kill white man." In the course of the deadly struggles occurring between the members of this small community, Christian, Mills, Williams, Martin, and Brown, were murdered in the year 1793, by the Ota- heitan rnen whom they had brought to the island with them. Christian was the first who fell a victim to their revenge. Mills was the next. Adams was shot ; the ball entering at his shoulder, and coming out at his neck. He fell ; "but suddenly sprung up and ran. They caught STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITGAIRN, 113 lii in ; and a blow was aimed at his head with the butt-end of a musket. This he warded off with his hand, having his finger broken by the blow. . On his again escaping, he ran down the rocks towards the sea ; but his pursuers called out to him, that if he would return he should not be hurt. He returned accordingly, and they troubled him no more. All the Otaheitan men were killed in the same year; one of them having been destroyed by Young's wife with an axe. As soon as she had killed him, she gave a signal to her husband to fire upon the only remaining Otaheitan. This was done with fatal precision,' This woman, Susannah, afterwards married Thursday October Christian, Fletcher Chris- tian's son, and died at an advanced age in the year 1850. She was the last survivor of the Bounty. The sanguinary frays among the members of the small body of inhabitants, from the time of their landing to 1794, have been described at different times. These painful particulars shall be passed over. One point, however, connected with the murders deserves mention, as it may serve to clear up some doubt regarding the death of Fletcher Christian. As the spot in which he was buried on the island is not known, and as a person resembling him was seen, about the year 1809, in Fore Street, Plymouth, by Captain Peter Hey wood, who imagined, from a transient view, that the stranger was Fletcher Christian himself, an impression in some quarters prevailed, that Christian had escaped the massacre of 1793, and had returned to England. It was said that ^ H 2 114 STATE OF SOCIETY AT P1TCATRN. the stranger, as if he knew himself to have been recognised, had fled from Captain Hey wood, who, after pursuing him for some distance in vain, felt persuaded that he had seen Christian. But the man, whoever he was, might have run off for other reasons ; and some manuscript documents of the island are stated by Admiral Beechey to be clear as to the death of Christian and the others. In 1794, when only four men, Young, M'Coy, Adams, and Quintal, were left alive, the women of the place were seen holding in their hands the five skulls of the murdered white men. The Otaheitan women were compelled, after some difficulty, to give up the heads to be buried. In that year the state of the island had become so intolerable to the women, that they resolved to brave the perils of the sea, rather than remain. They had accordingly prepared to set off secretly in a boat, which, fortunately for them, was swamped. Indeed, the men who had built it probably intended it should upset as soon as it was launched ; though they had, as a pretence, instructed the females how to steer, and had appointed one of them " the Captain." On the issue of this project, the Island Register has the following comment : " Had they launched out upon the ocean, whither could they have gone, or what would a few ignorant women have done by themselves, drifting upon the waves, but ultimately have fallen a sacrifice to their folly ?" Thus ended the visionary voyage of the females, who, foiled in their attempt to get away, again settled down in their sad and unwelcome home, Whither they had proposed to go, it is impossible STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN. 115 to say. The nearest island to Pitcairn, about ninety miles to its north, is Oeno, of coral for- mation, a barren place, most difficult of access. The approach is so bad, owing to the reefs of coral encompassing the lagoon which surrounds the island, that when Beechey, in December, 1825, attempted to land, the boat was broken to pieces. Lieutenant Belcher narrowly escaped with his life, and a young lad of the party was drowned. There is also, about 120 miles from Pitcairn, Elizabeth, or Henderson's Island, so called after Captain Henderson, of the Hercules, of Calcutta. It is nearly eighty feet above the level of the sea, five miles in length, one mile in breadth, of volcanic formation, and covered with dead coral. The soil is poor and sandy. There are many trees and shrubs on the island, and it has been occasionally visited by the Pitcairn people, chiefly for the sake of the timber found there On the occasion of their visit in 1851, they dis- covered eight human skeletons lying in caves ; probably the remains of some shipwrecked mariners, who, unable to procure food or water, had lain down to die. Several pieces of wreck were found on the shore. To return to 1794. Trouble followed trouble. The women, in the same year in which they had endeavoured to quit Pitcairn, deliberately planned the destruction of the four white men left among them. This dreadful plot was dis- covered in time by the men ; and a partial and suspicious peace was brought about. But other horrors remained behind. In 1798, 116 DREADFUL FATE OF THE MUTINEERS. M'Coy, in a fit of Delirium tremeris, brought on by drunkennes$, threw himself from the rocks into the sea, and was drowned. Matthew Quintal, after threatening the lives rf of his com- panions, was killed by Young and Adams, who/ in 1799, took away his life with an axe in self- defence.' Thus, six of the mutineers were mur- dered, and one committed suicide.' \Edward Young died of asthma, in 1800. % Adams, as has been seen, was severely wounded in one of the contests which took place, but recovered. ., Only two of the fifteen men who had landed from the Bounty (Young and Adams) died a natural death. Here we may pause to reflect ~on the "unhappy lives and dreadful deaths of men who had been guilty of a very heinous offence against the laws of God and man. Though Christian, when settled at Pitcairn, often wore a cheerful countenance and easy manner, there is reason to believe that the remembrance of the past was deeply painful to him, and that shame and remorse, mingled with the fear of detection, weighed heavily on his mind. On the top of a high rock is a spot which was called his " look-out." Whilst many hearts, thousands of miles off, were wounded, if not broken, by suspense and uncertainty re- specting his fate, and that of his companions, he was either employed in surveying the ocean around him, under the apprehension of the ap- proach of the officers of justice, or in endeavour- ing to control the turbulent community among whom he had irrevocably cast his lot. It may be observed, that punishment in this INTEMPERANCE. 117 life often bears a startling likeness to the sin which has been committed, and which not only thus finds the offender out, but shows him that it has done so. Within the narrow limits of the island, as in the confines of a ship, Christian had enemies at hand, who harassed, and at length took away his life ; and it is a remarkable fact, that he who had raised his hand in a criminal manner against his superior in command, should have suffered death from those whom he looked upon as men under his authority. Nor must it be forgotten, that one chief cause of all the quarrels and miseries of the mutineers was intemperance. M'Coy had unhappily become acquainted with the art of distilling. With the aid of a copper boiler, which had been taken from the Bounty, and which was altered into a still, he soon made an ardent spirit out of the ti-root (Dracaena terminalis}. This served to thin yet further the number of the original male settlers, until only one of them was left remaining. It pleased God to touch the heart of that one, and to make him an instrument of good to those around him. His deceased comrades had left families, who had been brought up in ignorance of their God and Saviour, all the women being Otaheitan idolaters. One Bible, and one only, which had been occasionally read by Christian and Young, remained this inestimable treasure having been rescued from the Bounty. Here was a merciful provision for guiding Adams, and those around him, in the right way, and making them wise unto salvation ! It may even 118 JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS. be hoped that the blessing had not been wholly lost upon Christian and Young. Besides the Holy Scriptures, Adams had the comfort and advantage of possessing a Common Prayer-book, one copy of which had also been recovered from the ship ; and of this book he 'made. constant use. In the year 1800, having then reached his thirty-sixth year, he found himself the only man on the island. The younger part, con- sisting of twenty children, looked up to him with reverence and affection. In that year his son George, who yet survives, was born. About ten years after this, John Adams had two re- markable dreams, which presented to him in vivid colours his past transgressions, and the awful nature of the punishment threatening to await them. In one of these dreams, he imagined v that 'he saw an awful being ap- proaching, and about to thrust him through witli a dart. The other vision represented to him the horrors of a future place of torment. These terrible dreams not only alarmed him at the time, but produced on him a lasting and wholesome impression, and effectually moved his conscience. May we not believe this to have been the influence of the Holy Spirit, whose merciful design it was to give him a better knowledge of himself, and a sense of the justice and goodness of God, and to bring him, an humble suppliant, to the throne of grace, for the pardon of his sins, through the merits of a cruci- fied Saviour? " Behold, I stand at the door, and knock ; if any man hear my voice, and open HIS REPENT A.NCE. 119 the door, T will come in to him, and will sup with him, and he with me/' (Rev, iii. 20.) Let no one say that there is any encourage- ment to superstition in these remarks. That which is uppermost in the thoughts, though it may not have ripened into good resolutions, much less into right practice, is frequently dis- played in a manner strong as reality, in those solemn hours when the world is shut out, and deep sleep falleth upon man. An idea which lias been presented to the mind whilst we are awake> often assumes, by reflection, and during the hoars of sleep, a solemnity and importance which it did not before possess. And perhaps there are no inward admonitions more affecting, or more fruitful of good, than those which relate to our children, and to the obligations under which we are laid to conduct the young in the right way. Happy are they who are wise enough to make a good use of that which appears to have been sent to them for a good end. Adams had begun to read his Bible ; and who can tell the power given by the grace of God to the study of the revealed Word, with prayer? With a clearer view of the parental character, and of the condition of his own soul, Adams became a religious man. He gained a knowledge of the Saviour, who died for him, and who called him by His grace. Penitent and zealous for his Master's honour, the lately rough sailor was softened, and began to inculcate in the minds of the young people about him the love and fear of God. He prayed for them, and for himself. He observed the rules of the Chinch 120 SOCIETY'S EFFORTS FOR PITCAIHN. of England, always had morning and evening prayers, and taught the children the Collects, the Catechism, and other portions of the Prayer- book. He was very particular in hearing them say the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed. The youthful pupils took such delight in Adams's instructions, that on one occasion, on his offering to two of the lads, Arthur Quintal and Robert Young, some compensation for their labour in preparing ground for planting yams, they pro- posed, that, instead of his giving the present held out to them, consisting of a small quantity of gunpowder, he should teach them some extra lessons out of the Bible, a request with which he joyfully complied. He exhorted the people, before going out fish- ing, or proceeding on any dangerous enterprise, to pray to God for his protection and blessing. On one occasion, he and some of the Otaheitan women went out fishing on the south side of the island. The surf became heavy, and broke their canoe. To ascend the precipice was impossible. Their only alternative was, as Adams told them, to commit themselves by prayer to their Maker, and swim to a rock some distance from the land, and again swim to another part of the island. This they did ; and at last they all reached the shore in safety. Adams, in the latter part of his life, was very fond of reading a book published by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, entitled, " The Knowledge and Practice of Christianity ; an Instruction for the Indians, by the Bight Kev. Dr. Wilson, Bishop of Sodor and Man." SOCIETY'S EFFORTS FOR PITCAIRN. 121 The reader may feel desirous of learning how this " Instruction for the Indians" had reached the island. It is satisfactory to find that Pitcairn's Island, as long since as the year 1819, partook of the benefits conferred by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. In the Society's transactions for that year, ten years before Adams's death, the following parti- culars appear, under the head of the Report from Calcutta; the Right Reverend Dr. Middleton being then Bishop of Calcutta, and President of the Calcutta Diocesan Committee : "In July 1819, an opportunity having oc- curred of communicating with the little colony on Pitcairn s Island in the South Pacific Ocean, by the departure from Calcutta of the ship Hercules for that place, the Committee were unwilling to lose so interesting an occasion of adding to the various benevolent contributions made for the use of those islanders. It having been intimated that a ^supply of Bibles had been furnished by another Committee, the Diocesan Committee made such a selection of other books and tracts as. appeared most suited to the situ- ation of these people, which, together with New Testaments, Prayer-books, and children r s school-books, were placed under the care of Captain Henderson, accompanied by the follow- ing letter, addressed to John Adams and the other islanders, and dated Calcutta, July 15th, 1819: 122 SECRETARY'S LETTER. ' To John Adams, and others on Pitcairns Island. ' It is with peculiar pleasure that I take an opportunity of sending to you by Captain Hen- derson, of the ship Hercules, a small stock of religious books, of which, probably, your society on Pitcairn's Island may stand much in need. They are a present from a Committee of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, established in this country , and I am sure that the prayers of this Committee attend their pre- sent, that the books may lead to the advance- ment of you all in religious knowledge, and in Christian holiness of life. You will find books of instruction fitted for all ages ; and may God Almighty prosper you in the use of them! ' At some future time, perhaps not very dis- tant, you may find opportunities of imparting the knowledge which you acquire, to the natives of other islands, in which the name of Jesus Christ is not known ; and may become blessed instruments in the hand of God for extending the kingdom of his Son our Lord. I trust that you will eagerly seize any such occasion ; and that by the example of your own lives, and by bringing up your children in habits of piety and virtue, you will recommend the Christian religion to others, as the only means of attaining true happiness here and hereafter. The Com- mittee would be very glad to hear of the welfare of your little society; and I am, with every good wish and prayer, your faithful Servant, 'J. HAWTAYNE, Joint Secretary:] EXE11TIONS OF ADAMtf. 123 Adams was no ordinary man, or lie could never have accomplished the arduous task which he had undertaken to perform. His work as a teacher must have been all the more laborious from his having had little or no in- struction in his early days. It is said that he had never been at school. His brother Jonathan was a waterman in London; and from him John sometimes received letters directed to him at Pitcairn. Struggling against all his difficulties, John Adams gained the best and most useful kind of knowledge, the knowledge of God, and of Jesus Christ whom He hath sent. Having happily learned how to impart that knowledge to others, he left a name, the memory of which is cherished beyond the borders of his little island. He not only at- tended to the young, but if any of the older inhabitants wanted counsel, he gave it ; if they were ill, he went and prayed with them. By a steadfast adherence to the line of duty which he had marked out for his conduct, he could not but perceive that the blessing of God was upon his labours. The fruits of good became apparent in a place where indifference to re- ligion and looseness of morals had prevailed ; and when we consider the latter part of his pilgrimage, and the filial reverence with which he was regarded by his juniors, we may conclude that this island-pat rial ch had much to cheer and encourage him, amidst the trials and sorrows which had fallen upon him. Amongst the most comfortable feelings of his heart, as the end of his existence drew on, was probably the 124 CAUSES OP ALARM. well-grounded hope that the rising generation would fear God, and keep His commandments. Looking at the improved condition of the people, st previously to his death, which happened in arch, 1829, when he was sixty-five years of age, he might well have been gladdened by the prospect of the continuance among them of those firm and solid principles of true religion, which had been fixed upon a sure foundation, and which form a topic of honourable mention at this very time. Much of Adams's trouble and anxiety in former years naturally arose from the fear of being discovered and taken. In May, 1795, he and. his brother mutineers, having observed a ship nearing the island, in their terror hid themselves in the bush. Having, after some time, cautiously left their place of concealment, they proceeded to the beach, where they found a knife, and a few cocoa-nut shells, proving that some persons had landed. The visitors^ how- ever, it would seem, had not noticed any signs of houses, and had therefore left the island without further search. CHAPTER V. THE CHRONOMETER OP THE BOUNTY DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OP PITCAIRN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT TEARS ACCOUNT GIVEN BY SIR THOMAS STAINES BY ADMIRAL BEECHEY EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE IN 1831 QUEEiC POMARE HER LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA. ON Captain Mayhew Folger's departure from Pit cairn, after his visit there in 1808, in the American ship Topaz, he carried away a Ken- dall's chronometer, and an azimuth compass, both of which had belonged to the Bounty. In a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, dated Nantucket, March 1st, 1813, Folger stated that the " time-keeper " and compass had been pre- sented to him, on his leaving the island, by John Adams. He added that this time-keeper, after being in his possession about six weeks, had been taken from him by the governor of the island of Juan Fernandez. The compass he forwarded to their Lordships. The time-keeper, or chronometer, had been, previously to this, twice carried out by Captain Cook, in his voyages of discovery. In 1776, when the Resolution was in the course of equip- ment for her voyage, " The Board of Longitude S.t into the possession of Captain Cook, and r. King, his second lieutenant, the time-keeper 126 THE CHRONOMETER OF THE BOUNTY. which Captain Cook had carried out in his last voyage, and which had performed so well. It was constructed by Mr. Kendall, and was a copy of Mr. Harrison's." * This time-keeper was taken out again by Captain Bligh in 1787 ; and, after the mutiny on board the Bounty, was carried by the mutineers to Pitcairn's Island. According to May hew Folger's statement, it was in the possession of the governor of Juan Fernandez in 1808. It was afterwards sold in Chili ; and subsequently came into the possession of Alexander Cald- cleuch, Esq., of Valparaiso, of whom Captain Herbert, K.N. (now Admiral Sir Thomas Her- bert) purchased it, in 1840, for fifty guineas. That officer, who then commanded the Calliope, had the instrument repaired at Valparaiso, took it with him to China, and, in 1843, brought it home in the Blenheim. It was exhibited in the Royal Institution, Albemarle-street, in 1844. It is six inches in diameter, with three dials on its face ; one for hours, one for minutes, and one for seconds ; with a massive outer silver case, made as the outer cases of pocket watches were, eighty or ninety years since ; so that its appearance is that of a gigantic watch. It has " Larcum Kendall, London," inscribed on the face. The same name, and the date, A.D. 1771, are engraved inside. It is at present in the United Service Museum, Scotland-yard, Whitehall-place, London, Sir Thomas Herbert having presented it to that institution. This * Captain Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, in 1766, vol. i. p. 3. Ed. 1784. LETTER FROM~SIR T.~ STAINES. 127 chronometer is an object of exceeding interest to those who view it with reference to its history, in connexion with the Resolution and the Bounty. The author will, therefore, be forgiven for his minuteness on the subject of this relic No further notice was taken of Pitcairn's island, nor of its inhabitants, until 1814, when his Majesty's ships Briton and Tagus, Captain Sir Thomas Staines, and Captain Pipon, being in search of an American ship of war, the Essex, which had been seizing some of our whaling vessels, arrived at the spot. Adams, upon this, supposed that his time was come, and that he should be carried away. Although much alarmed, he did not attempt concealment, but presented himself to the officers, who soon re- assured him, by saying that he was not to be arrested; the time was past for that; he had been a quarter of a century on the island, and his presence was useful to the islanders. ,The condition of the place and people at that 'date cannot be better described than by Sir T. Staines, in his own words, in a letter addressed by him to Vice- Admiral Manley Dixon : " Briton, Valparaiso, Oct. 18, 1814. , " SIR, I have the honour to inform you that on my passage from the Marquesas Islands to this point, on the morning of the 17th Septem- ber, I fell iu with an island where none is laid down in the Admiralty or other charts, accord- ing to the several chronometers of the Briton I 128 LETTER FROM SIR T. and Tagus. I therefore hove-to until daylight, and then closed, to ascertain whether it was inhabited, which I soon discovered it to be, and, to my great astonishment, found that every individual on the island (forty in number) spoke very good English. They proved to be the descendants of the deluded crew of the Bounty, which from Otaheite proceeded to the above-mentioned island, where the ship was burnt. " Christian appeared to have been the leader, and the sole cause of the mutiny in that ship. A venerable old man, named John Adams, is the only surviving Englishman of those who last quitted Otaheite in her, and whose exemplary conduct, and fatherly care of the whole little colony, could not but command admiration. The pious manner in which all those born on the island have been reared, the correct sense of religion which has been instilled into their young minds by this old man, has given him the pre-eminence over the whole of them, to whom they look up as the father of the whole, and one family. " A son of Christian was the first born on the island, now about twenty-five years of age (named Thursday October Christian) ; the elder Christian fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of an Otaheitan man, within three or four years after their arrival on the island. They were accom- panied thither by six Otaheitan men and twelve women ; the former were all swept away by desperate contentions between them and the Englishmen, and five of the latter have died at BRITON AND TAGUS. 129 different periods, leaving at present only one man and several women of the original settlers.' , " The island must, undoubtedly, be that called Pitcairn, although erroneously laid down in the charts. We had the meridian sun close to it, which gave us 25 deg. 4 min* S. latitude, and 130 deg. 25 min. W. longitude, by chrono- meters of the Briton and Tagus. It is abundant in yams, plantains, hogs, goats, and fowls, but affords no shelter for a ship or vessel of any description; neither could a ship water there without great difficulty. " I cannot refrain from offering my opinion that it is well worthy the attention of our laudable religious Societies, particularly that for propagating the Christian religion, the whole of the inhabitants speaking the Otaheitan tongue as well as English. During the whole of the time they have been on the island, only one ship has ever communicated with them, which took place about six years since, by an American ship, called the Topaz, of Boston, Mayhew Folger, master. The island is completely iron- bound, with rocky shores, and landing in boats at all times difficult, although safe to approach within a short distance in a ship. (Signed) " T. STAINES." It is remarkable, that in this letter John Adams should have been styled a "venerable old man." He was then only fifty years of age. But he had suffered much anxiety. For a long period of his life he had been a stranger to security; and his weather-beaten face bore i2 130 BRITON AND TAGUS. marks of a more advanced age than that which he had attained. He is mentioned in Bligh's description, as very much pitted with the small- pox, and tattooed on his body, legs, arms, and feet. As the real position of the island was ascer- tained to be far distant from that in which it had been usually laid down in the charts, and as Sir T. Staines and Captain Pipon seem to have still considered it as uninhabited, they were not a little surprised, on approaching its shores, to behold plantations regularly laid out, and huts or houses more neatly constructed than those of the Marquesas Islands. When about two miles from the landing-place, some natives were observed bringing down their canoes on their shoulders, dashing through a heavy surf, and paddling off to the ships ; but the astonish- ment of our sailors was unbounded on hearing one of the natives, on approaching the ship, call out in the English language, " Won't you heave us a rope, now?" The first man who got on board the Briton soon proved who they were. His name, he said> was Thursday October Christian, the first born on the island,* son of Fletcher Christian. He was then about twenty-five years of age, a fine young man, about six feet high, his hair deep black, his countenance open and interesting, of a brownish cast, but free from all that mixture of a reddish tint which prevails on the Pacific islands; his only dress was a piece of cloth * He was born on a Thursday in October. INTERVIEW WITH ADAMS. 131 round his loins, and a straw hat, ornamented with the black feathers of the domestic fowl. " With a great share of good humour,* 7 says Captain Pipon, " we were glad to trace in his benevolent countenance all the features of an honest English face. I must confess," he con- tinues, " I could not survey his interesting person without feelings of tenderness and com- passion. His companion was named George Young, a fine youth of seventeen or eighteen years of age." If the astonishment of the captains was great on hea,ring their first salutation in English, their surprise and interest were not a little increased, on Sir Thomas Staines taking the youths below and setting before them something to eat, when one of them rose up, and placing his hands together in a posture of devotion, distinctly repeated, and in a pleasing tone and manner, " For what we are going to receive, the Lord make us truly thankful ! ' They expressed great surprise on seeing a cow on board the Briton, and were in doubt whether she was a great goat, or a horned sow. The two captains of his Majesty's ships ac- companied these young men on shore. With some difficulty arid a good wetting, and with the assistance of their conductors, they ac- complished a landing through the surf, and were soon after met by John Adams, who conducted them to his house. His wife accom- panied him, an old person, blind and infirm. He was at first alarmed, lest the visit was to apprehend him; but on being told that they 132 APPEARANCE AND DEPORTMENT. had been perfectly ignorant of his existence, he was relieved from his anxiety. Being once assured that the visit was of a peaceable nature, it is impossible to describe the joy these poor people manifested on seeing those whom they were pleased to consider as their countrymen. Yams, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, with fine fresh eggs, were laid before them ; and Adams would have killed and dressed a hog for his visitors, but time would not allow them to partake of the intended feast. This interesting settlement then consisted of about forty-six persons, mostly grown-up young people, besides a number of infants. The young men (all born on the island) were very athletic, and of fine forms, their countenances open and pleasing, indicating much benevolence and good- ness of heart ; but the young women were objects of particular admiration ; tall, robust, and well-formed, their faces beaming with smiles, and unruffled good humour, but wearing a degree of modesty and bashfulness that would do honour to the most virtuous nation on earth. Their teeth, like ivory, were regular and beauti- ful, without a single exception ; and all of them, both male and female, had the most marked English features. The following pleasing account appeared in the Quarterly Review : They sometimes wreath caps or bonnets for the head, in the most tasty manner, to protect the face from the rays of the sun ; and though, as Captain Pipon observes, they have only*" had the ~ instruction of their Otaheitan OCCUPATIONS. 133 mothers, our dressmakers in London would be delighted with the simplicity, and yet elegant taste, of these untaught females. Their native modesty, assisted by a proper sense of religion and morality, instilled into their youthful minds by John Adams, had hitherto preserved these interesting people pure and uncorrupted. They all labour, while young, in the culti- vation of the ground ; and when possessed of a sufficient quantity of cleared land, and of stock to maintain a family, they are allowed to marry, but always with the consent of Adams. The greatest harmony prevailed in this little society ; their only quarrels (and these rarely happened) being, according to their own expres- sion, quarrels of the mouth. They are honest in their dealings, which consist of bartering different articles for mutual accommodation. Their habitations are extremely neat. The little village of Pitcairn forms a pretty square, the houses at the upper end of which are occu- pied by the patriarch John Adams and his family, consisting of his old blind wife and three daughters, from fifteen to eighteen years of age, and a boy of eleven; a daughter of his wife by a former husband, and a son-in-law. On the opposite side is the dwelling of Thursday October Christian, and in the centre is a smooth verdant lawn, on which the poultry are let loose, fenced in so as to prevent the intrusion of the domestic quadrupeds. All that was done was obviously undertaken on a settled plan, unlike anything to be met with on the other islands. 134 AGRICULTURE. In their houses they had a good deal of decent furniture, consisting of beds laid upon bedsteads, with neat coverings : they had also tables, and large chests to contain their valuables and clothing, which is made from the bark of a certain tree, prepared chiefly by the elder Ota- heitan females. Adams's house consisted of two rooms, and the windows had shutters to pull to at night. The younger part of the sex are? as before stated, employed with their brothers, under the direction of Adams, in the culture of the ground, which produced cocoa- nuts, bananas, the bread-fruit tree, yams, sweet potatoes, and turnips. They have also plenty of hogs and goats ; the woods abound with a species of wild hog, and the coasts of the Island with several kinds of good fish. Their agricultural implements are made by themselves, from the iron supplied by the Bounty, which with great labour they beat out into spades, hatchets, &c. This was not all. The old man kept a regular journal, in which was entered the nature and quantity of work performed by each family, what each had re- ceived, and what was due on account. There was, it seemed, besides private property, a sort of general stock, out of which articles -were issued on account to the several members of the- cornmunity; and, for mutual accommodation, exchanges of one kind of provision for another were very frequent, as salt for fresh provisions, vegetables and fruit for poultry, fish, &c. ; also, when the stores of one family were low, or vrholly expended, a fresh supply was raised ADMIRAL BEECHEY'S ACCOUNT, 135 from another, or out of the general stock, to be repaid when circumstances were more favourable.* The name of John Adams is so closely identified with Pitcairn's Island, and so much of the present happy state of the people is owing, under the Divine blessing, to him, that it is difficult to say too much on this part of the subject. The description given by the late Ad- miral Beechey of Adams, as well as of the young islanders, who came out in a boat to the Blossom, when off the island in December, 1825, is so graphic, that it must be quoted in the excellent author's own words : " They sprang up the side, and shook every officer by the hand, with undisguised feelings of gratification. The activity of the young men outstripped that of old Adams, who was, consequently, almost the last to greet us. He was unusually strong and active for his age, notwithstanding the inconvenience of consider- able corpulency. He was dressed in a sailor's shirt and trowsers, and a low-crowned hat, which he instinctively held in his hand until desired to put it on. He still retained his sailor's gait, doffing his hat, and smoothing down his bald forehead, whenever he was ad- dressed by the officers. It was the first time he had been on board a ship of war since the mutiny, arid his mind naturally reverted to scenes which could not fail to produce a tempo- rary embarrassment, heightened, perhaps, by the _ familiarity with which he found himself See Quarterly Review, voL iii. p. 378, &c. 136 DESCRIPTION OF YOUNG ISLANDERS. addressed by persons of a class with those whom he had been accustomed to obey. Ap- prehension for his safety formed no part of his thoughts : he had received too many de- monstrations of the good feeling that existed towards him, both on the part of the British Government and of individuals, to entertain any alarm on that head ; and as every person endea- voured to set his mind at rest, he very soon made himself at home. " The young men, ten in number, were tall, robust, and healthy, with good-natured counte- nances, which would anywhere have procured them a friendly reception ; and with a simplicity of manner, and a fear of doing wrong, which at once prevented the possibility of giving offence. Unacquainted with the world, they asked a number of questions, which would have applied better to persons with whom they had been intimate, and who had left them but a short time before, than to perfect strangers; and inquired after ships and people we had never heard of. Their dress, made up of the presents which had been given them by the masters and seamen of merchant ships, was a perfect carica- ture. Some had long black coats, without any other article of dress, except trowsers ; some, shirts without coats ; and others, waistcoats without either; none had shoes or stockings, and only two possessed hats, neither of which seemed likely to hang long together." The following picture of filial affection, drawn by a careful and intelligent observer, is well worthy of insertion. Captain Beechey, anxious FILIAL AFFECTION 137 to visit the houses at Pitcairn, rather than pass another night at sea, determined to put off with some of his men in boats, and to accompany Adams and the islanders on shore. He says : " The difficulty of landing was more than repaid by the friendly reception we met with on the beach from Hannah Young, a very interesting young woman, the daughter of Adams. It ap- peared that John Buffett, who was a seafaring man, ascertained that the ship was a man-of- war ; and. not knowing exactly why, became so alarmed for the safety of Adams, tjiat he either could not, or would not, answer any of the inter- rogations which were put to him. This mys- terious silence set all the party in tears, as they feared he had discovered something adverse to their patriarch. At length his obduracy yielded to their entreaties ; but before he explained the cause of his conduct, the boats were seen to put off from the ship, and Hannah immediately hurried to the beach to kiss the old man's cheek, which she did with a fervency demonstrative of the warmest affection." Beechey observes, that Adams on no occa- sion neglected his usual devotions. The old man, while on board the Blossom, slept in that officer's cabin, in a retired corner of which he fell on his knees each night to say his prayers, and was always up first in the morning for the same purpose. The same writer, who made many highly valuable notes respecting the cha- racter and customs of the people in 1825, gives the following remarkable account of them : " l During the whole time I was with them, 138 REVERENCE FOR THE LOlfo'S DAY. I never heard them indulge in a joke or other levity ; and the practice of it is apt to give offence. They are so accustomed to take what is said in its literal meaning, that irony was always considered a falsehood, in spite of ex- planation. They could not see the propriety of uttering what was not strictly true, for any purpose whatever. The Sabbath-day is devoted entirely to prayer, reading, and serious medita- tion. No boat is allowed to quit the shore, nor any work whatever to be done, cooking except ed, for which preparation is made the preceding evening. I attended their church on this day, and found the service well conducted. The prayers were read by Adams, and the lessons by Buffett ; the service being preceded by hymns. The greatest devotion was apparent in every individual, and in the children there was a seriousness unknown in the younger part of our communities at home. In the course of the iLitany they prayed for their sovereign, and all !the royal family, with much apparent loyalty and sincerity. Some family prayers, which were thought appropriate to their particular case, were added to the usual service ; and Adams, fearful of leaving out any essential part, read in addition those prayers which are intended only as substi- tutes for otherSo * A sermon followed, which was very well delivered by Buffett; and, lest any part of it should be forgotten, or* escape attention, it was read three times. The whole concluded with hymns, which. were first sung by the grown people, and afterwards by the children. The service thus performed was very long ; but the EARL WALDEGRAVE'S ACCOUNT. 139 neat and cleanly appearance of the congregation, the devotion that animated every countenance, and the innocence and the simplicity of the little children, prevented the attendance from becoming wearisome. In about half-an-hour afterwards, we again assembled to prayers. They may be said to have church five times on a Sunday. " All that remains to be said of these excellent people is, that they appear to live together in perfect harmony and contentment; to be vir- tuous, religious, cheerful, and hospitable beyond the limits of prudence ; to be patterns of conjugal and parental affection, and to have very few vices. We remained with them many days, and their unreserved manners gave us the fullest opportunity of becoming acquainted with any faults they might have possessed.'' * In the year 1830, the Hon. W, Waldegrave, Captain of H.M.S. Seringapatam, touched at Pitcairn's Island. The following extracts from a letter of this officer, now Earl Waldegrave, will show that the moral and religious training of the rising generation had been well attended to subsequently to John Adam's death : "PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, March 17, 1830. "On the 15th of March I landed at this island, and was friendly and hospitably received by George Nobbs and all the inhabitants. My officers and men were most kindly treated at breakfast and dinner, and slept in their houses. My crew received a supply of cocoa-nuts and * Captain F \V. Beechey's "Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Behring's Straits;" a work of much interest. 140 EARL WALDEGRAVE'S ACCOUNT. fruits. I had the gratification to hear William Quintal say part of the Catechism,, and answer several questions as to his knowledge of the redemption in Christ, and of the different habits of the Jews, their sects and diseases, perfectly, clearly, and distinctly showing that he under- stood their meaning. I also heard two little girls repeat part of a hymn, which showed to me how well they had been instructed ; and lastly, I attended at their evening prayers. I can only trust that the God who preserves this island and its inhabitants from foreign injury, may keep them alive in the true faith of Jesus Christ in purity and peace; so that each per- son, at his death, may quit this world in the expectation of being for ever in heaven, through the merits of Jesus Christ, It was.^vith very great satisfaction that I observed ths Christian simplicity of these natives. They appeared to have no guile. Their cottages were open to all, and all were welcome* to their food; the pig, the fowl was killed and dressed instantly ; the beds were ready ; each was willing to show any and every part of the island, Before they began a meal, all joined hands in the attitude of prayer, with eyes raised to heaven ; and one recited a simple grace, grateful for the present food, but beseeching spiritual nourish- ment. Each answered, Amen, and after a pause the meal began. At the conclusion, another grace was offered up. Should any one arrive during the repast, all ceased to eat. The new guest said grace, to which each repeated, Amen, . and then the meal continued/ 7 EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE, 141 There having been the fear of a want of water } at Pitcairn in 1831, the people, eighty- seven in number, were removed from the island to Otaheite, by order of the British Government, in the barque, * Lucy * -Anne, sent from Sydney 9 New South Wales. On being landed at Otaheite on March 23d, they were well received by Queen Pomare'. Captain Sandilands, of ELM.S. Comet, in his despatch to Kear-Admiral Sir E. W. Owen, K.C,B., gave an interesting report of this case of emigration, and of the manner in which the voyagers were welcomed by Queen Pomare, who was then, and is still, the ruling sovereign of Otaheite. At her Majesty's desire, Captain Sandilands landed the people of Pitcairn at her residence, about three miles from the anchorage, where houses were provided for them, until she gave up for their temporary use a large dwell- ing belonging to herself in the town of Papiete. A tract of rich land was also marked out, as a desirable territory for their future residence. Having assembled the chiefs of the district, the Queen, in a speech, formally announced that she had assigned this land to her guests from Pit- cairn, giving directions at the same time that her people should immediately commence the construction of houses for the new comers. In showing this hospitality, she appears to have consulted her own kind disposition, and also to have endeavoured to fulfil the promises given by her father, the late King Pomare, who had pro- mised them welcome and protection in case of need. Nor was this good feeling confined to the 142 LETTER TO HER BRITANNIC MAJESTY. Queen. Much regard was generally shown by the Otaheitans, who sought out with diligence whether there might not be relations among their guests. In one instance a woman came a considerable distance, and discovered in one of the four remaining women a long-absent sister. The fact of, Queen Pomare having been en- gaged in a troublesome civil war at the time of the visit of the islanders, places her kindness and attention to them in a still more pleasing light. ^ This is the Queen Pomare, who, early in 1843, complained to her Majesty Queen Vic- toria of the proceedings of the French, in threatening her peace and government. There is much pathos and simplicity in the Otaheitan Queen's mode of address to her "Sister and Friend." The following are extracts from her letter, literally translated : " TAHITI, January 23, 1843. " My dear Fripnd and Sister, Queen Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Health and peace to you ! And saved may you be by Jehovah, the Foundation of our power as Queens of our re- spective countries. We dwell in peace by the arrangements made by our predecessors. " This is my speech to you, my sister friend. Commiserate me in my affliction, in my help- lessness, in which my nation is involved with France. " The existing protectorate government of France in my dominions I do not acknowledge. I knew nothing of what my chiefs and the LETTER TO HER BRITANNIC MAJESTY. 143 French Consul had done before I wrote to you by Captain Jones, I being absent at Raiate." After bemoaning the dependent state into which she had been thrown by French interven- tion, and the political movements of her chiefs, she proceeds : u And now, my friend, think of me, have compassion on me, and assist me ; let it be powerful, let it be timely and saving, that I may be reinstated in my government. 4; Have compassion on me in my present > trouble, in my affliction, and great helplessness. Do not cast me away ; assist me quickly, my friend. I run to you for refuge, to be covered under your great shadow, the same as afforded to my fathers by your fathers, who are now dead, and whose kingdoms have descended to us the weaker vessels. I renew that agreement. Let it be lasting and for ever. Let its con- tinuance extend not only to ourselves and children, but to our children's children. My friend, do not by any means separate our friend- ship. This is my true wish. " I now deliver up to you, my friend, my last effort. My only hope of being restored is in you. Be quick to help me, for I am nearly 1 dead. I am like a captive pursued by a warrior and nearly taken, whose spear is close to me. The time is very nigh, when, I fear, I shall lose my government and my land. " My friend, send quickly a large ship of war to assist me. A French ship of war is daily expected here. Speedily send a ship of war to protect me ? and I shall be saved. It is my K 144 QUEEN POMARE: wish that the Admiral may speedily come to Tahiti. If he cannot speedily come, I wish a large ship of war may come just at this present time. Continually send here your ships of war. Let not one month pass away without one, until all my present difficulties are over. " I have also at this time written a letter to your Admiral on the Spanish coast, to come to Tahiti and assist me. Health and peace to you! May you be blessed, my sister friend, Queen of Great Britain, &c. " POMARE, Queen of Tahiti" Queen Pomar, however, and her people soon felt the power of the French, who erected a fort, commanding the entrance to the harbour of Otaheite. They have a frigate and a war- steamer anchored there, and a military force on vthe island. The Queen is married, and has 'children. She adopted the late Eeuben Nobbs, the Pastor's eldest son, but never ^removed him from the care of his parents. CHAPTER VI, RETURN OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN 1833 POPULATION OP PITCAIRN THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR RULES AND CUSTOMS THE ISLANDERS' DAY AT PITCAIRN RECEPTION OF VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS MR. CARLETON'S MUSICAL CLASS. THE Pitcairn emigrants did not remain long at Otaheite. Their health suffered in the new cli- mate ; and the licentious habits of the place proved distasteful to that well-ordered Christian commu- nity. It was owing to this, as well as to the love of country, which is a powerful principle at Pitcairn, that the people soon found their way back to their own home. When the British ship Challenger touched at Otaheite in 1833, it appeared that all whom death had spared had returned to Pitcairn. Some had yielded to the temptations to intemperance. Sickness also had become prevalent among them, and had carried off twelve. Five died almost immediately after their return home. It was partly in consequence of the failure of the scheme of emigration of 1831, and partly from the fear of interrupting the happy state in which the people had so long lived on their be- K2 146 EMIGRATION. loved island, that their friends in this country felt serious misgivings on hearing of the probable necessity of the removal of the community from Pitcairn, on the score of necessity. Captain Fanshawe, who visited the islanders in 1849, had written as follows: " I could not trace in any of them the slightest desire to remove elsewhere. On the contrary, they expressed the greatest repugnance to do so, whilst a sweet potato re- mained to them ; a repugnance much enhanced by their emigration to Otaheite about eighteen years ago.' 7 George Adams, the son of the original John Adams, had declared subsequently that he should prefer remaining, that he might, when his time should come, die on his native island, and be buried in the grave of his father. Mr. Nobbs had said, in the hearing of the author, in November, 1852, that as long as two families should remain at Pitcairn, he would remain also. Until recently, however, the people had not been encouraged by the hope, that in the event of their crops failing, or their population increasing, they might probably be transferred to some more roomy spot, blest with a genial climate and a fertile soil. It will be seen, in the progress of this work, that a scarcity of provisions, followed by general illness at Pitcairn' s Island, in the year 1853, had caused a strong feeling of the necessity for a change of residence, and that this feeling had ripened into an actual proposition from the com- munity for a removal to Norfolk Island. It was a part of their plan, should this petition be granted. POPULATION. 147 that they might be allowed to live on Norfolk Island in the same seclusion from the rest of the world as they had hitherto done at Pitcairn.* V But it is due to the reader to refrain from an- ticipating the subject of this eventful history. It was suggested in former editions of this work that, if found needful, a certain amount of emi- gration might take place, formed on the principle of serving the interests of others, as well as of the islanders themselves, by means of Christian instruction and example ; the good leaven, thus infused into other communities, being likely, with God's blessing, to produce the happiest effects upon them. It was observed, that such means of Christian usefulness would, doubtless, be within the reach of the people, whatever their abode might be ; and that they might thus, at no distant period, be the favoured instruments of spreading Christianity and civilisation through- out the numerous groups of islands in the Southern Pacific Ocean. By a census which appears to have been taken on the occasion of the visit of the Juno, Captain Fremantle, to the island, in the latter part of September, 1855, the number of persons inhabiting Pitcairn's Island was stated to have been 187. All were natives of the place except three : the Eev. Geo. H. Nobbs, John Buffett, and John Evans. The only surnames on the island were eight : namely, Adams, Christian, M'Coy, Quintal, Young, Buffett, Evans, and Nobbs. Brown, Martin, and Williams had no children. John Mills left no son. The Ota- * See Nautical Magazine, vol. xxv. p. 208, April, 185(5. 148 POPULATION. heitan men met with early and violent deaths, and left no children. ^ The original division of the island was into nine parts, between the nine mutineers ; it was afterwards subdivided into twenty -two; this being the number of families on the island. The following table, corrected to September 19, 1855, will present some useful statistics to the reader with reference to the population : q "8 Pitcairn Islanders, H >> g'g 13 -1 I i bearing the names of I 2 1 p Nobbs . 14 6 8 4 10 Christian 49 27 22 12 37 Quintal 44 20 24 12 - 32 Young 24 11 13 10 14 Adams 17 11 6 5 12 M'Coy 11 2 9 3 8 Buffett 19 11 8 9 10 Evans 9 4 5 4 5 Total . . 187 92 95 59 128 In preparing the sheets for a new edition of this work, after so great a change had been made in the position and circumstances of the community, the author felt some doubt as to the best manner of relating the history. At length he determined to describe Pitcairn and the Pitcairners not in the past tense, but in the present, as in former editions. There seems to be greater propriety in adopting this course, as the islanders in their habits and customs will QUEEN VICTORIA'S BIRTHDAY. 149 probably continue to be at Norfolk Island such as they were at Pitcairn. Some little misunderstandings occasionally arise as to boundaries- bufc these as well as such other matters of dispute as now and then occur, are generally soon settled by the chief magistrate and the two councillors. The owners of "this sceptred isle," " This precious stone set in the silver sea," avow a hearty allegiance to the Queen of Eng- land. Her Majesty's birthday is observed as an occasion of much joy. All the people as- semble near the church, in holiday apparel ; the bell is set ringing, and old and young unite in singing loyal songs in honour of the day. By their Pastor's account, not only the cheerful bell is heard on this festive day, bufc it had been usual to introduce the deep-mouthed gun to assist at the solemnity. The history of this gun is curious, and, in some respects, painful. It once belonged to the Bounty, and was fished up from the bottom of the sea in 1845, with one of its companions, which had been spiked, and which was therefore useless. The better of the two, after remaining many fathoms deep for five-and-fifty years, was much honeycombed, and, when brought into use, was generally used with caution. It has been stated above, that H. M. steamer Virago left Callao for Pitcairn, early in 1853, on an errand of kindness. She arrived at the island on the 24th of January.. The officers 150 ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND. and such of the crew as were landed were about to take their leave. The Virago was the first steam- vessel the people had ever seen, no steamer having before visited Pitcairn ; and they had enjoyed, by the Captain's invitation, an agreeable excursion in the vessel round the island. Captain Prevost had wished all fare- well, and had gone on board to start for Otaheite. This was on January the 26th, 1853, when a most serious accident occurred. The magi- strate, Matthew M'Coy, and two others, Charles Driver Christian and William Evans, were employed in loading the old gun of the Bounty, to salute the Virago, on her departure. The rammer used was an old rafter, on the top of which was a nail. Whilst Matthew was in the act of ramming home the charge, the friction caused by the nail effected the explosion of the powder. He was blown away several yards from the gun, and his arm was knocked to pieces. The two other men were severely wounded. Matthew's arm was carefully amputated ; but the shock to the system was too severe ; and after he had lingered twelve hours in great agony, death put a period to his sufferings. He bad the character of being a good man, and well prepared for death. The other two, though severely hurt, happily recovered, and were able to attend Divine service on Easter-day, March 27th. Matthew M'Coy was a grandson of Wil- liam M'Coy, the mutineer, and was about thirty- five years of age. He was married to Margaret Christian, a sister of Mrs. Nobbs, and had a LOYALTY. 151 large family. The old gun has been spiked, and will never be used again. To return to a more cheerful portion of the narrative. The scene presented by the assem- blage of people on the Queen's birthday has been depicted by a poet of their own. The following stanzas by Mr. Nobbs, in one of his national songs, produce a .pleasing sketch : Ha ! that flash yon grove illuming, Long impervious to the sun ; Now the quick report comes booming From the ocean-rescued gun. Now the bell is gaily ringing, Where yon white-robed train is seen ; Now they all unite in singing, GOD PRESERVE OUR GRACIOUS QUEEN ! In the year 1849, a Frenchman, of a military air, and partly military costume, arriving, with some other travellers, from the brig Fanny, was courteously received by the islanders. With the politeness characteristic of his countrymen, he soon engaged in conversation with Mr. Nobbs, and, in imperfect English, inquired, Whether the people of Piteairn had heard of Prince Louis Napoleon, and the French Re- public? and the next question was, Would they enlist themselves under it? Suiting the action to the word, he took a paper for signatures from his pocket. He was briefly answered by Mr. Nobbs's quietly pointing to the English flag, which waved in the wind over their heads, The flag that braved a thousand years The battle and the breeze ! 152 OFFICE OF MAGISTRATE. The Pastor then assured him, that they knew all about Louis Napoleon, and the French Eepublic, but that all the people on the island were loyal subjects of Victoria, Queen of Eng- land. The Frenchman again bowed, begged pardon, returned the paper to his pocket, and explained, that " he did not know Pitcairn was a colony," Though Pitcairn is not a colony, it is entirely English ; and such a loyal and united commu- nity, as a whole, cannot be found in any of the colonies or dependencies of the British Empire. The English union-ja,ck is hoisted on all grand occasions; and to England the people would look for protection, should any attempt be made to interfere with their position. But who would think of disturbing so inoffensive and so- poor a settlement ? Their leading man is a magistrate, who is elected on the first of January every year, by the general votes of males and females who have attained the age of eighteen years. Married persons, both males and females, though they may be under that age, are entitled to vote, Two councillors are chosen at the same time, one elected by the magistrate, the other by the people. When there is any dispute to be settled, which cannot well be decided by the magistrate, or by the magistrate and councillors combined, a jury of seven is called, to whom the matter is referred. Then, should it not be satisfactorily arranged, it stands over until the arrival of a British man-of-war ; and there is no appeal against the Captain's decision. During the OFFICE OF MAGISTRATE. 153 interval the matter drops, and no ill feeling re- mains. ' It is a principle, with them, which was specially urged upon them by John Adams, never to let the sun go down upon their wrath. What an example is conveyed in the practical adherence to this Scriptural rule ! How simple and effectual a mode of adjusting differences, and preventing the growth of malice and all uncharitableness ! The wise will let their anger cool, At least before ' tis night ; But in the bosom of a fool It burns till morning light. The office of magistrate is not coveted, it being in some respects an invidious one. It often happens that the person for whom this honour is designed would rather be fined than accept it. The fine generally consists in killing a hog for the public good. The duties of the magistracy are fulfilled without fear, favour, or affection. With respect to the general appearance of the islanders, in their features and complexion, as well as their dress and manners, they re- semble the people of one of our English vil- lages of the better order. A few of them are, however, rather darker than the generality of Europeans, partaking more of their half-Ota- heitan descent. A few words about dress. The women wear a 'full petticoat, and above that a loose gown, with a handkerchief thrown over the shoulders. A wreath of flowers is often worn round the head. There are many large trees on the island, 154 DRESS AND HABITS. which produce small white flowers, much es- teemed for their fragrance ; and of the flowers of this tree (Morinda citrifolia} r or a mixture of them with bright red flowers, the females make their wreaths. Their hair is worn in bands, and is brought up in a very becoming manner into a knot cleverly twisted behind. The men wear short trousers, the legs of which are cat ofT two or three inches above the knee. A shirt, and a cap or hat, complete their costume. They seldom wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays. The people live principally on vegetables, having meat about once a- week ; and each family gets fish once, and, occasionally, twice a-week. The fishing is difficult and precarious, as they have to seek the fish in very deep water, often at the depth of 150 or 200 fathoms. At the commencement of the yam-digging season, in April, when there is much hard work in prospect, and they require better food, and more of it, each family, having a hog, kills it. This is the period for the people to indulge, beyond their usual custom, in animal food. There are three burial-places on the island. The funerals are always attended by every member of the community, who is able to go out of doors, even if the deceased should be but an infant. The children are early instructed in swim- ming; and many of their sports are in the water. They also learn to thread the difficult passes of the rocks like so many young goats. The per- sonal strength and activity of the men, which are STRENGTH AND ACTIVITY. 155 described by Admiral Beecliey, as he observed them in 1825, do not seem to be diminished at the present day. The Lieutenant Belcher, men- tioned in the subjoined extract, is now Captain Sir E. Belcher, C.B. " Two of the strongest men on the island, George Young and Edward Quintal, have each carried at one time, without inconvenience, a kedge anchor, two sledge hammers, and an armourer's anvil, amounting to upwards of six hundredweight. Quintal, at another time, car- ried a boat, twenty-eight feet in length. Their activity on land has been already mentioned. 1 shall merely give another instance, which was supplied by Lieut. Belcher, who was admitted to be the most active among the officers on board, and who did not consider himself behind- hand in such exploits. He offered to accompany one of the natives down a difficult descent, in spite of the warning given by his friend, that he was unequal to the task. They, however, com- menced the perilous descent ; but Mr. Belcher was obliged to confess his inability to proceed, whilst his companion, perfectly assured of his own footing, offered him his hand, and said he would conduct him to the bottom, if he would depend on him for safety. In the water they are almost as much at home as on land, and can remain nearly a whole day in the sea. They frequently swam round their little island. When the sea beat heavily on the island, they have plunged into ,the breakers/ and swum to sea beyond them. This they sometimes did, push- ing a barrel of water before them, when it could 156 STRENGTH AND ACTIVITY, be got off in no other way ; and in this manner we procured several tuns of water, without a single cask being stove." The Rev. Wm. Armstrong, formerly Chaplain at Valparaiso, and since resident in New Bruns- wick, in a letter to the author from Valparaiso, dated October, 1849, stated that an English man-of-war, the Pandora, had lately arrived direct from Pitcairn, and that the commander, Lieut. Wood, arid the officers, had given the most pleasing account of the happy state in which the little community were living. They were described as a remarkably strong and healthy people. For instance, a young woman, eighteen years of age, had been accustomed to carry on her shoulders a hundred pounds weight of yams over hills and precipitous places, and for a considerable distance, where one unaccus- tomed to such exercise would scarcely be able to scramble. A man, sixty" years old, with ease carried the surgeon of the Pandora up a steep ascent from the landing-place, where he had himself in vain attempted to mount, the ground being very slippery from recent rains ; and the officer being a large man, six feet high, rendered it the more surprising. Indeed, Lieut. Wood said he was himself borne aloft in the arms of a damsel, and carried up the hill with the utmost facility. From the date of the first intelligence re- specting the inhabitants of Pitcairn, there has been no variation in the character given of them. As they were, in those two great essentials of human happiness, purity and peace, when Sir GOOD CONDUCT OF VISITORS. 157 Thomas Staines visited the island in 1814, so they are now in 1856, the same contented, kind, and God-fearing race. Nor need we feel surprise at this, however delighted we may be with the picture. They are sensible of the trea- sure which they possess in the Bible, and they take it for their guide in the performance of their duty towards God and their neighbour. And they have learned to estimate the value and excellency of the Book of Common Prayer, which, as a faithful exponent of the revealed word t)f God, has tended to keep them in the unity of faith, in the bond of peace, and in .righteousness of life. The difficulty of landing On the island, and the want of harbour and anchorage, though at first sight a disadvantage, may have proved a blessing, in preserving these simple-minded people from the baneful effects too likely to arise from crews remaining, as a matter of course, among them. As it is, the behaviour both of officers and men, who visit the place, is stated to be most exemplary. No encourage- ment is given to evil ; and no instance can be quoted of the transgression, on the part of visitors, of the sacred law of hospitality. On the contrary, the good habits, and moral and religious conduct of the islanders, do not fail to produce, by the power of example, a wholesome influence on strangers. Jlf it be asked how the people pass their me, and what they can have to do in a spot whose utmost limit is barely four miles and a half in circumference, comprising less of extent - 158 THE PITCAIRNERS' DAY. than Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens put together, the question may be answered by a description of the Piteairn Islanders 7 ordinary day. They rise early, generally as soon as it is light. As the difference of longitude between England and Piteairn is about 130 degrees, or nearly nine hours in time, at seven in the morning with them, it is about four in the after- noon with us. Each house has early family prayer, preceded by Scripture reading ; two chapters of the Bible being generally selected for the morning, and one for the evening. After some slight refreshment, or none, (for they have only two regular meals a-day,) the business of the Pitcairners' day begins. The young people are sent to school, in pursuance of a law of the island ; and after the " graver hours, that bring restraint, and sweeten liberty," they have their needful food, and their childish amusements. They are fond of flying kites, and of games at ball ; though the want of room on the island imposes a limit on the nature and number of the out-of-door diversions both of young and old. - The occupation of the men consists in culti- vating their land ; looking after their gardens ; building and improving their houses, which are neat, clean, and commodious; rearing stock; fencing in their plantations ; manufacturing hats from the leaf of the palm ; making fancy boxes, &c.; which they keep in store for barter with whalers, or other vessels which may call at Piteairn for refreshment. FISHING. 159 At about twelve o'clock, they have a plain and substantial breakfast, or dinner, consisting of yams and sweet potatoes, made into a kind of bread, for which they do not fail to ask God's blessing, and to render Him thanks. Hand of bounty, largely spread, By whom our every want is fed ; Whate'er we touch, or taste, or see, We owe them all, Lord, to Thee. HEBER. So strict is their observance of the duty of saying grace before and after meals, that " we do not know," says Captain Beechy, " of any instance in which it has been forgotten. On one occasion I had engaged Adams in conversation, and he incautiously took the first mouthful without having said his grace ; but before he had swallowed it, he recollected himself, and, feeling as if he had committed a crime, imme- diately put away what he had in his mouth, and commenced his prayer." Fishing for a kind of cod, grey mullet, and red snapper, though no very hopeful pursuit in the deep water round the island, occasionally forms part of the day's employment. Nor of the day only ; for sometimes they go forth at night among the rocks close to the sea, or row r out in a canoe, and taking a light, attract the fish, which they strike with a pole, armed with five barbed prongs, and so take. Suppose, however, the islander returned from his day's labour to his supper, at about seven o'clock in the evening. Except once or twice -week, no fish, meat, or poultry will be found L 160 NATIVE CLOTH. to grace the "board, but yams and sweet potatoes, and such humble fare as has been prepared by the females of the family. For the women have their daily task to perform ; some preparing the ground, taking up yams, and doing other work requiring diligence and strength. There being no servants, the wives or daughters make and mend the clothes, and attend to all the requisite household affairs. The women also manufacture tappa, or native cloth, from the bark of the Anti, or paper- mulberry, which is rolled up and soaked in water, and then beaten out with wooden mallets, and spread forth to dry.* This is very hard work. The author has in his possession a piece of beautifully. wrought white tappa, given him by Mrs. Hey wood, and bearing a label, which states that it was made by the wife of Fletcher Christian, from the bark of the paper-mulberry tree.. The piece from which this portion was taken was entrusted by Christian's widow to Captain Jenkin Jones, when he visited the island, in her Majesty's ship Curagoa, in 184L She particularly desired him to give it to Peter's wife. Isabella, Fletcher Christian's widow, was a native of Otaheite, and died, at a very advanced age, in September, 1841. The cooking is performed by the females. Their cooking-places are apart from their dwell- ings ; and there are no fire-places in any of the houses. Baked, not roasted, meats are the substantial luxuries of the table at Pitcairn. * For a full account of the mode of making tappa, see Cook's Voyage in 1777, &c. vol i. p. 201. Ed. 1784. HOUSEHOLD ARRANGEMENTS. 161 Their ovens, like those at Otaheite, described by Captain Cook, are formed with stones in the ground. Captain Beechey says, that an oven is made in the ground, sufficiently large to contain a good-sized pig, and is lined throughout with stones nearly equal in size. These, having been made as hot as possible, are covered with some broad leaves, generally of the ti-plant, and on them is placed the meat. If it be a pig, its inside is lined with heated stones, as well as the oven. Such vegetables as are to accompany the meal are then placed round the meat that is to be dressed. The whole is covered with leaves of the ti-plant, and buried beneath a heap of earth, straw, or rushes and boughs, which by a little use become matted into one mass. In about an hour and a quarter, the meat is sufficiently cooked. There is much wisdom in the arrangement regarding the absence of fire-places from their wooden cottages. They are also sparing in their use of lights in general. They have no candles, but use oil, and torches made with nuts of the Doodoe-tree (Aleurites triloba). They have no glass for the windows. The shutters, which serve the purpose of admitting light and air, are closed in bad weather. For the most part pure water, but, now and then, tea, consti- tutes their drink. Cocoa-nut milk, and water sweetened with syrup, extracted from the bruised sugar-cane, vary the drinks of these temperate people. No wines or spirits are ad- mitted to the island, except in small quantities for medicinal purposes. The water which they L & 162 LITERATURE. use does not come from springs, (there are none in the island,) but from reservoirs or tanks, neatly excavated, which collect the rain. Of these there are five or six, holding from three to four thousand gallons of water each, sufficient not only for the consumption of the inhabitants, but for supplies to whalers and other vessels. With respect to literary occupation, " You will be glad to hear," wrote Mr. Armstrong to the author, " that they are all well educated. The young men are instructed in navigation, and some of the lower branches of mathematics. They all live together in the greatest harmony, and in the strictest observance of religious duties public, family, and private with every appearance of perfect freedom from all crime, and bearing the stamp of extreme innocence and simplicity. " A new regulation has been recently made for the distribution of all their books among the families, they having been before kept as public property, as it was believed they would be more read and valued in that way. Shelves have been put up in all their houses, which are very neat and comfortable, though more like ship-cabins than dwelling-houses. The reason they give for this arrangement is, that they are in the habit of walking into each other's houses with the same freedom as into their own ; and, taking up a book, will sit down and read it aloud, or not, as they feel disposed. The books of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge reached them in good time, some of which were EVENINGS AT PITCAIRN. 163 particularly suitable ; there being several copies of the same work, such as the Homilies and others." Considering the employment found by the inhabitants, in the ways of industry above de- scribed, and the advantage and amusement derived from reading for the people have many books of general literature, as well as publica- tions of a directly religious character the day cannot be said to hang heavy on their hands in Pitcairn's Island. How various his employment whom the world Calls idle, and who justly in return Esteems that busy world an idler too ! Friends, books, a garden, and perhaps his pen, Delightful industry enjoy'd at home, And Nature in her cultivated trim Dress'd to his taste, inviting him abroad Can he want occupation who has these ? Will he be idle who has much t' enjoy ? A life all turbulence and noise may seem, To him that leads it, wise, and to be praised ; But wisdom is a pearl, with most success Sought in still water, and beneath clear skies. COWPEE. When the shades of evening draw on, the islanders, one and all, again remember Him, who is about their path and about their bed, and spieth out all their ways. Nor are they slow to acknowledge His claims, who expects the grateful homage of His intelligent creatures, and whose protection and blessing they beg in family worship, before they lie down to sleep. And then, without any thought of locks, bolts, or bars, for they have no such defences, nor any need of them, each may feel at night a 164 ARRIVAL OF SHIPS. happy confidence in the protection and blessing of that gracious Lord, who has guided and pre- served them through the day. Guarded by Thee, I lay me down, My sweet repose to take ; For I through Thee securely sleep, Through Thee in safety wake. But if they are active and cheerful on common days, how great is their pleasure on descrying, from the " Look-out Ridge" of their sea-girt rock, a sail on the edge of the horizon ! and what a stir does the arrival of a ship cause among them! How different are the feelings of the present islanders from those which pos- sessed the inhabitants fifty or sixty years since ! Then they sought a place of concealment, when they perceived a vessel heave in view ; now they rejoice at the sight. A short account of the reception of a ship on their shores will interest the reader. It is customary for each family, in turn, to have the privilege of receiving as their guest the captain of any vessel, whether a man-of-war, or a whaler, which may happen to arrive. On her appearance sufficiently near, the master of the house, whose turn it is to be the host, goes off in a canoe, and, after satisfactory answers to questions as to the health of those on board, he ascends the ship's side ; the canoe, which is but a light affair, being quickly hauled up after him. Most important are these inquiries ; for if the small-pox, or any other infectious disorder, should find its way into the island, dreadful indeed would be the result. But when it is CONSIGNMENT OF GOODS. 165 1 \ " all right," the ship's boat being lowered, the captain, and five or six men, conducted by the islander, who steers in the difficult parts, proceed to Bounty Bay. Some persons are always ready on the rocks to give a signal for the safe entrance ' of the boat, without which precaution serious accidents would frequently occur. The captain and his company having safely landed, a?re at once greeted and attended by a number of the natives, who have descended from the village to the little beach. All then ascend the hill; and the first walk is usually to the school-house, where th;j strangers obtain a sight of the island-register, and examine the shipping- list, in which they enter the name of their own vessel ; whence she has come, and whither she is bound. After some preliminary conversation, the representatives of the several families, one at least from each house, assemble; and after a hearty welcome, and the interchange of friendly expressions, inquire what is wanted for the vessel, as to vegetables, refreshments, &c. A list is handed in of the articles in demand, such' as yams, sweet potatoes, &c., the price of these goods being always the same in time of scarcity as of plenty. The inhabitants then, in their turn, inquire of ^the^captain, what he has to dispose of, This is generally found to be coarse cotton cloths, soap, oil, &c., with perhaps some small quantities of lead or iron- While the captain is engaged in conversation with the teacher, on matters "of mutual and general interest, the health of the Queen being the first in the series of questions and answers, the 166 FESTITE OCCASIONS. inhabitants retire, and consult among themselves what each person's proportion of the captain's wants amounts to. This being settled, each repairs to his own plantation to procure his part, which in every instance is, as far as possible, an equal share from each family. Such is the reliance placed by visitors on the honesty and integrity of the islanders, that in no case does the captain think it necessary, either himself or by proxy, to be present at the weigh- ing or measuring of the articles required. One of the islanders is appointed to remain at the market-place, to take an account of the things sent on board ; and the mode of dealing is always cheerfully acceded to by the authorities of the vessel. The articles are removed from the market-place to Bounty Bay, where they are deposited at the captain's risk, and from whence they are conveyed in boats ; or, if the surf is heavy, the goods are packed in casks, which are conducted by the natives, who swim with them through the heavy surf to the boats lying outside the broken water. It is the custom on festive occasions, when the captain and his friends from the ship are entertained at dinner, for the women to attend upon the party at table. This is the exception to the general rule : as, usually, when there are no visitors, the men and women in a family sit down together. But the attendance of the females on strangers, and on their own relatives, has been misapprehended by some travellers as a mark of barbarism. Now, there must be some to wait ; strangers must be hospitably served : and FESTIVE OCCASIONS. 167 the younger women do these honours of their island in the most attentive and good-humoured manner. Here, again, the delicacy and good sense of the islanders are to be admired. It will be allowed that for husbands and brothers to be attending upon their female relatives and newly-landed guests, would be a less desirable and becoming mode than that at present adopted. In March 1850, five passengers of the barque Noble , Captain H. Parker, bound from New Zealand for California, were left by a mischance on Pitcairn ; the vessel from which they had landed having been blown off from her place near the island during the night. She was visible the next morning from the shore ; all the people watching her movements with intense anxiety. For some reason, however, (probably the state of the weather,) when seeming to approach the island, she suddenly changed her Course, sailed away, and left her five passengers behind. During the three weeks of their deten- tion, which turned out to be a very agreeable visit, the strangers, who had no property about them but the clothes which they had on, re- ceived every mark of sympathy and friendship. One of these gentlemen, Mr. Walter Brodie, whom Mr. Nobbs entertained as his guest, em- ployed himself chiefly in gathering materials for an account of the island, and its hospitable in- habitants, which was afterwards published, and to which allusion has already been made. Two of the other guests, the Baron de Thierry, and Mr. Hugh Carleton, especially the latter, applied themselves to the task of teaching the uc - v <* a , tli 168 MR. CARLETON'S MUSICAL CLASS. whole of the adult population to sing. Fortu- nately, the Baron happened to have a tuning- fork in his pOcket ; and the people, whose efforts in psalmody in church had been noticed as some- what imperfect, caught with delight at the idea of a little musical instruction. They proved, according to Mr. Brodie, remarkably intelligent, not one among the number being deficient in ear, while many had exceedingly fine voices. The progress surpassed the most sanguine ex- pectations of the teacher. On the fourth day, they sang through a catch in four parts with great steadiness : and the performance was very remarkable. Mr. Brodie has given the names of 57 pupils being 30 males, and 27 females, as the " list of Carleton's musical class.' 7 For some time their chief musical instrument in the church had been an accordion ; but among the gifts procured for them by the kindness of friends in England was an excellent organ. With regard to Mr. Brodie, it is worthy of remark, that, though he had been thus detained at Pitcairn, he arrived in the barque Colonist at San Francisco, in California, twenty-eight days before the Nolle, which had been ninety-three ~ays on her passage from Pitcairn ! The crew of tie Noble had suffered great privations, owing to the want of provisions and water. His dis- appointment, which appeared so grievous, in missing his ship at Pitcairn, ended in his escap- ing the miseries to which the people in the Noble had been exposed, and in finding the few weeks on Pitcairn's Island among the happiest periods of his life. DETENTION AT PITCAIRN. 169 One of the most important results, however, of this seemingly casual visit was, that the real position and prospects of the community became obvious to impartial judges, and were pointed out to the inhabitants themselves. Previously to his departure from Pitcairn, the Baron de Thierry addressed them on their helpless situ- ation. He reminded them of the uncertainty attending the arrival of vessels on their shores, and called their attention to the scarcity of water, that great requisite, which the next landslip might cut off altogether. But the chief wants which he apprehended, especially amidst an increasing population, were those of food and clothing. " Whichever way I look," said he, " in whatever light I view your case, I see nothing left for you but removal, and that, too, as speedily as possible." Writing to them from Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, in June, 1852, he advised them to make an application to the Colonial Secretary for their transfer to Norfolk Island, in the event of the removal of the convicts. CHAPTER VII. MB. NOBBS SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE HIS ESCAPE FROM THE HANDS OF THE PIRATICAL SOLDIER, BENEVIDEIS HIS ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN MR. HILL EXTRACTS FROM HIS LETTER TESTIMONIES TO THE CHARACTER AND SERVICES OF MR. NOBBS PROGRESS OF RELIGION IN PITCAIRN'S ISLAND REUBEN NOBBS TESTIMONIES FROM THE REV. WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS STATE OF THE SCHOOL. THE arrival of Mr. George Hunn Nobbs at Pitcairn's Island, in the year 1828, may be considered a providential occurrence for the well-being of the inhabitants. The success of thirty-two years' labour is an abundant proof of Mr. Nobbs's fitness for his office. Under the blessing of God, this faithful teacher has edu- cated in the true religion, and in the principles of our Church, as one united family, a com- munity, pre-eminent for their simple and virtu- ous lives. A brief notice of his career, and of the circumstances which led him to Pitcairn's Island, cannot fail to be interesting to the reader. Mr. Nobbs was born in Ireland, in 1799. He was in his youth a midshipman in the British navy, having first gone to sea when not much more than eleven years of age. He had been entered in 1811 on the books of H.M.S. ' EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 171 Roebuck, through the interest of Rear- Admiral Murray; by whose means he was, in 1813, placed on board the Indefatigable., naval store- ship, the master of which was Captain Bowles. In this vessel the young sailor went to New South Wales, and Van Diemen's Land. Having quitted Van Diemen's Land and visited Cape Horn, and from thence proceeded to the Cape of Good Hope, he returned, after a short stay at St. Helena, to England. He then left the navy. After residing at home a few months, he received a letter from his old commander, offering to procure him a berth on board a ship of eighteen guns, designed for the use of the patriots in South America; He accepted this offer, and left England early in . 1816, for Valparaiso ; but the Royalists having regained possession of that place, he could not enter it until 1817. He afterwards held a commission in the Chilian service, under Lord Cochrane, now Earl of Dundonald, and became lieutenant in consequence of his services J Among other important adventures which took place during this period, and in which Mr, Nobbs bore a part, was the courageous enterprise of cutting out the Spanish frigate Esmeralda, of forty guns, which was lying irx the bay, under the batteries of Callao, in Peru. The capture was accomplished late at night on the 5th of November, 1820. An address from Lord Cochrane had been delivered to the marines and seamen, which concluded with an injunc- tion, that the Chilenos should act with valour, " and that the English should do as they had 172 EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS, always done, both in their own country, and elsewhere." A very spirited account of this remarkable transaction, the success of which surpassed all that could have been imagined, is met with in Lady Callcott's " Journal of a Residence in Chili in 1822." Lieutenant Nobbs was also engaged in a severe conflict with a Spanish gun-brig, near Arauco, a fortress of Chili. He had been or- dered up a river near the town ; the object being to recover a quantity of property belonging to British and American merchants, which had been seized by the piratical general Benevideis. Mr. Nobbs, when in command of a gun-boat, after sustaining the loss of forty-eight men, in killed and wounded, out of a party of sixty-four, was taken prisoner by the troops of that despe- rate adventurer and robber. The sixteen unhappy captives were marched off to prison, and were all shot, with the excep- tion of Lieutenant Nobbs, and three English seamen. These four, after remaining for three weeks under sentence of death, were quite un- expectedly exchanged for four officers attached to Benevideis' army ; one of the officers, a major, being fortunately a brother-in-law of Benevideis. Mr. Nobbs had seen his fellow- prisoners, from time to time, led out to be shot, and had heard the reports of the muskets con- signing them to death. He retains to this day a vivid memory of that dreadful fusillade. Lady Callcott states that Benevideis was the son of the inspector of a prison, and had been a foot-soldier in the first army of the Chilenos EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 173 in the cause of South American independence. From the descriptions given of this man's cha- racter and actions, the reader will rejoice at Mr. Nobbs's rescue from his hands.* Having been made prisoner by the Royalists, Benevideis entered their army, and, being taken soon after, was sent to be tried as a deserter; but he escaped by setting fire to the hut in which he was confined; and he soon distinguished himself among the Royalists by his talents and bravery. Again he was taken prisoner, and sentenced to be shot, in company with many others, in the Plaza of Santiago. He fell with the rest; but, though thought to have been executed, was not killed. He lay like a dead man amongst the others, until it became dark. He. then contrived to extricate himself from the heap, and in a most miserable plight, covered with wounds, crawled to a neighbouring cottage, the generous inhabitants of which received and attended him with the greatest care. General San Martin, who was at that time planning an expedition to Peru, and was look- ing about for able and enterprising individuals, heard of Benevideis being still alive ; and knowing his talents and courage, considered him a fit person to serve some of his desperate purposes. The bold ruffian himself actually gave information of his being alive, and invited San Martin to hold a secret conference at mid- night, in the centre of the great square of San- tiago. The appointed signal was to strike fire * See Captain Basil Hall's "Notes on Chili, Peru, and Mexico." 174 EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. from their flints three times ; a mark sufficiently conspicuous for the purpose of distinction, yet of a nature .calculated to excite no suspicion. San MartinJ accordingly, alone, and provided with a brace of pistols, went to the spot, where he encountered Benevideis, similarly armed. After a long conference with the desperado, whom he finally engaged in his service, he settled that Benevideis should, for the present, serve in the Chilian army employed against the Araucanian Indians in the south; but should be ready to join the army in Peru when the expedition sailed. Benevideis soon quarrelled with the Chilian General, and once more changed sides, offering his services to the Indians, who were glad to obtain so brave and unrelenting an associate, In a short time his experience and congenial ferocity gave him so great an ascendency amongst this warlike race, that he was elected Commander-in-chief. Hence arose the atrocities with which Benevideis is justly charged. He murdered his prisoners in cold blood. His great delight was to invite the captured officers to an elegant entertainment, and, after they had eaten and drunk, march them into his court- yard, whilst he stood at the window to see them shot. Some, to whom he had promised safety, he delivered over to the Indians, of whose barbarous treatment of prisoners of war he was well aware ; and they were cruelly murdered. His cause having failed, Benevideis fitted out a privateer, to provide himself with food and ammunition ; and at length, on the 1st of EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 175 February, 1822, finding he could hold out no longer, he attempted to escape to one of the Spanish ports in a small boat. But he was recognised, seized, and sent to Santiago, where, on the 21st, he was tried, and sentenced to death. The awful sentence was fulfilled. He was tied to the tail of a mule, dragged from prison, and then hanged in the palace-square. Mr. Nobbs having quitted the Chilian service, after many hardships and dangers, went to Naples in October, 1822. On his passage from that city to Messina in a Neapolitan vessel, she foundered off the Lipari Islands ; and, with the loss of everything, he reached Messina in one of the ship's boats. In May, 1823, he returned to London in the Crescent, commanded by William Pitt, a Navy Lieutenant ; and in the same year he sailed to Sierra Leone as chief mate of the Gambia. Of nineteen persons who went out in that vessel, none but the captain, Mr. Nobbs, and two coloured men, lived to return. In June, 1824, he again went to Sierra Leone, commander of the same ship, and was six weeks on shore ill with fever ; but it pleased God to restore him to health in time to return with his ship, the command of which he resigned on his arrival in England. 7 The commander of a ship in which he had sailed, had expatiated so frequently on the happiness of the people at Pitcairn, that Mr. Nobbs seriously intended to go thither, if his life should be spared ; and he set out with this object in view, on the 12th November, 1825, in the Circassian, bound for Calcutta. He had M 176 ARRIVAL OF MR. NOBBS AT PITCAIKN. at that period been four times round the world, and his wish was to lead a life of peace and usefulness to his fellow-creatures. With his mind steadfastly set on Pitcairn's Island, he was detained until August, 1827, in Calcutta; from whence, after a very narrow escape from shipwreck in the Straits of Sunda, he crossed, the Pacific in a New York ship, called the Ocean, to Valparaiso. There, and afterwards at Callao, he suffered a further detention ; but ultimately he succeeded in leaving Callao in a frail bark of eighteen tons burthen, having expended one hundred and fifty pounds sterling on the vessel and her outfit. He was accom- panied by only one other person, an American, named Noah Bunker, and arrived at Piteairn, after a six weeks' voyage, in October, 1828. His companion died soon afterwards; and the vessel afforded the materials for a house for Mr. Nobbs. John Adams received him with kind- ness ; and after Adams's death, in March, 1829, Mr. Nobbs, who had been engaged in keeping school from the period of his arrival, was ap- pointed the teacher of the community. When he first entered upon his charge, the number of inhabitants of Pitcairn was only sixty- eight. From that time until the present, he has been with them through evil report and good report, as their pastor, surgeon, and school- master, with the exception of a few months during which he was absent from the island, in consequence of the intrusion of a Mr. Joshua Hill, who arrived from Otaheite in 1832. This pom- pous person, who was then about sixty years of LETTEB OF MB. JOSHUA HILL. 177 age, informed the inhabitants that he had been authorized by the British Government to reside at Pitcairn's Island; when, in fact, he had received no such authority. Mr. Nobbs. appears to have been of too plain and straightforward a character to suit this new-comer, whose pre- sence amongst the people caused much trouble, and who divided their little society into two factions ; one siding with him, the other with the constitution as it was. At length, partly by splendid promises, and partly by instilling into the simple minds around him the terror of giving offence to the Government at home, whom he affected to represent, he enlisted some of the natives against the three Europeans, and suc- ceeded in excluding them and their families, for a time, from the island. Certain misrepresentations concerning Mr Nobbs, which are alluded to by Admiral Moresby, in his letter contained in the Preface, took their rise at about this time.' ~ It is fortunate for any one who may have been misrepresented by Mr. Hill, that he wrote in June, 1834, a long letter, full of his own- praises, which has been published,* and which sufficiently shows into what sort of hands the islanders of Pitcairn had fallen during the time of Hill's influence. The -author can- not refrain from quoting a specimen of this epistle : " I have visited the falls of Niagara and Mont- morency, the natural bridge in Virginia, the great Reciprocating Fountain in East Tennessee, the * Brodie, p. 211. M 2 178 , LETTER OF MR. JOSHUA HILL. great Temple of Elephanta at Bombay. I have dined with a prince as well as with a princess ; and with a count, a baron, an ambassador, a minister (ordinary and extraordinary), and have travelled with one for some weeks. I have dined with a Char g 6 d 1 Affair es, and lived with consuls, &c. I have visited and conversed with ''Red Jacket? the great Indian warrior : I have visited and been visited by a Bishop. I have frequently partook of the delicious Hungarian wine (tokay), Prince Esterhazy's; as also of Prince Schwart- zenburgh's old hock, said to have been 73 years old ; and I was intimate with the brother-in-law of this last German nobleman. I have dined with a principal Hong merchant at Canton. I have sat next to the beautiful Madame Recamier, and Madame Carbanus ? at the great dinner par- ties. I have written to the Prime Minister of Eng- land ; and have received the late Earl of Liver- pool's answer, with his thanks, &c. I was at Paris when the allies were met there. I have visited and breakfasted with the late Warren Hastings, Esq., at his seat in Gloucestershire. I have had permission with a party of friends to hunt over his grounds. Entertained, &c., two or three days at the sporting lodge of an Earl, now a Marquis. " I have made a crimson silk net for a certain fashionable Marchioness, which she actually wore at her next great party of five or six hundred persons. I have danced with the Countess Ber- trand, i.e. Mademoiselle Fanny Dillon, before she married the Marshal. I was at Napoleon's coronation. I have been invited to the Lord REMOVAL OF ME. HILL. 179 Mayor's, and to the dinner of an Alderman of London." Happily, the Hill dynasty was not destined to last long. He had given out, says Mr, Brodie, "that he was a very near relative of the Duke of Bedford, and that the Duchess seldom rode out in her carriage without him." * But whilst the people listened, and still their wonder grew at his magnificent accounts of himself, and of his noble friends, who should arrive on their shores, in H.M.S. Actceon, in 1837, but Cap- tain Lord Edward Russell, a son of the Duke of Bedford ! A spectre could not have been a more ap- palling visitant to the so-called relative of the Russellsc He would have been forthwith taken from the place by Lord Edward ; but this could not have been done without orders. Soon, however, Captain H. W. Bruce (afterwards Ad- miral Bruce, Commander-in-chief on the coast of Africa) arrived in H. M. S- Imogene, and quietly carried off Mr* Hill, landing him, in 1838, safe at Valparaiso. Mr. Nobbs, during his absence from Pitcairn, was at the Gambier Islands, where he employed himself as a teacher, biding his time in patience, and employing, in his own homely manner, the talent entrusted to his use. Gambier's group, about three hundred miles W.N. W. of Pitcairn, consists of eight islands, surrounded by coral reefs, enclosing a lagoon in which there are several secure anchoring-places, * Brodie, p. 211. 180 GAMBIER ISLANDS. but which contains dangerous knolls of coral. Admiral Beechey gives a pleasing account of his visit to these islands in January, 1826, and of his interviews with the natives. His vessel rode safely in the lagoon, where the crew caught a large quantity of fish. The people came out on rafts to the vessel, and were delighted with the presents which they received. One of them snatched up a small terrier dog, which was not intended for him ; and it was only by force that he was prevented carrying it away. Others wanted to possess themselves, without a title, of a large Newfoundland dog ; " but he was big and surly enough to take care of himself." Of these islands, which afforded a safe asylum to the pastor, during his exclusion from Pit- cairn, the recent accounts, furnished by Captain Morshead, of H.M.S. Dido, are too valuable to be lost. That officer, who had been instructed by Admiral Moresby, after leaving Pitcairn, to visit the Gambier Islands, with the view of ascertaining the capabilities of the gioup, as a place of call for the trans-Pacific steamers, supplied the following report : " On the morning of the 10th November, 1853, I stood close along the N.E. side of Crescent Isle, with Mount Duff in sight, and having got the S.W. end of Wainwright Island on with the mountain, we carried six fathoms over the barrier reef; and passing to the eastward of Wainwright Island, anchored on the same after- noon in eighteen fathoms (sand) under Eelson Island, which, according to Captain Beechey GAMBIER ISLANDS, 181 and tlie Pacific Directory, is good anchorage, and best water. I landed immediately to see the watering-place ; but it was with much difficulty that we succeeded in getting the gig over the reef, and found only a very small stream of water, not more than would run from the neck of a bottle, with a few detached wells. Before moving the ship, I went the next morning in the gig to see the water, and landed on Peard Island, to the southward of Mount Duff, marked in Beech ey's plan ' good water.' Here the landing is impracticable for a loaded boat, but we found a good stream a long way in shore, which is now divided to irrigate the tara beds, and trickles at last over the rocks into the sea in numerous little streamlets. The east side of the island, near the King's house, was the only place we could find fit for water- ing ; and on the following morning I moved the ship over, and anchored off the S.E. angle of Peard Island, about a mile from the watering- place, in twenty-two fathoms (sand), and a laby- rinth of coral patches all around us. By turning two streams into one, and damming it up, we were enabled to fill about three tuns in two hours, and to bring off with some difficulty about ten or twelve tuns daily. As water is abundant, reservoirs and tanks might easily be constructed, should they ever become a rendezvous. I found the French Protectorate flag flying on shore, and five French families, but no one in any official capacity. There are three Romish priests on the islands, Father Cyprian being at their head, who holds the king and natives in the mo#t perfect 182 GAMBIER ISLANDS. subjection, "both temporal and spiritual. There are several stone-built houses on the island, and a handsome Romish church 200 feet long, with a double row of columns inside, and capable of containing a thousand persons : the altar is chaste and beautiful, formed of mother-of-pearl. Upon the hill on the south side of Mount Duff is a cemetery, and a convent containing one hundred nuns and sixty children, whose interval between prayers and penance is filled up by trundling a distaff, and spinning native cotton, to supply a ; factory with a dozen hand-looms at work-" N " With respect to supplies, mountain sheep, goats, hogs, fowls, and fish can be procured. Most of the tropical vegetables grow, tara and pump- kin being principally cultivated; but onions, leeks, carrots, spinach, lettuces, and cabbages, with a few European potatoes, are cultivated by . the French families. Of fruit, cocoa-nuts, ba- nanas, bread-fruit, and pine-apples are abundant and very fine; oranges and limes are scarce; the paw-paw apple and fig are also there, Wood for building and firing is scarce and bad, the bread-fruit timber being principally used. " The islands produce annually about four hundred tons of pearl-shells, and pearls about equal in value to the shells. Nearly every native had a few pearls concealed about his person, and rather over-estimated their value. There were several large collections on the islands, and some very indifferent ; but a few in the possession of the king were magnificent. The population is now a little above two thousand, an epidemic having lately (according to Father Cyprian) swept MR. NOBBS'S RETURN FROM GAMBIER. 183 off several hundreds, The natives are rather a good specimen of the Koauka race tractable, hard-working, and expert boatmen. They were all well dressed; and clothes, cutlery, tobacco, and soap were sought after, and readily taken in exchange for supplies. The king having ex- pressed a desire to see the ship, I received him with manned yards, and a salute, at which he was delighted ; but no flag was hoisted, not being aware that the French Protectorate is either claimed or acknowledged. His Majesty was accompanied by the priests, and is a fine-looking man, above the middle age, and was dressed in plain European costume. He had a mild, in- telligent countenance." After this digression, the reader will be glad to return to the history of M^ Nobbs. In about nine months after he had been at the Gambier Islands, the people of Pitcairn recalled him, with the other Europeans ; the request for their return being accompanied by an offer of payment of all their expenses ; and they returned accordingly, without further delay. Mr. Nobbs's active life in the Chilian service has been briefly noticed. On the 9th of Novem- ber, 1839, when engaged in the quiet and seden- tary, but scarcely less laborious, duty of a pastor and teacher at Pitcairn, with his youthful pupils around him, he had the satisfaction of receiving, as a visitor to the island, General Friere, ex-pre- sident of Chili, who had known him eighteen years before. What a contrast to those former scenes is afforded by the picture presented by 184 LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. the plain and simple words, found in the Island Register, respecting this visit ! * The following letter, signed by several of the islanders, including the magistrate and the two councillors, will speak for itself. It is an answer to a communication received from the Rev. J. Moody, then chaplain of H.M.S. Thalia, and afterwards chaplain at the Falkland Islands : " Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean, " July 20th, 1847. " REVEREND SIR, We received on the 26th of February last by H.B.M.S. Spy, your ac- ceptable present and truly valuable letter, which, so far from giving offence, is highly appreciated, and has been deposited in the archives of the island, to be referred to at public meetings and other suitable occasions. We extremely regret the circumstances which frustrated your intended visit, for we should be in the highest degree de- lighted to have made your acquaintance, received your advice, and, we trust, in some measure, your approbation ; for we can assure you the report of our splitting into parties, &c. is incor- rect. A few years since, a partially deranged impostor, named Joshua Hill, alias Lord Hill, came here, and made much disturbance ; but he was removed by order of the British government. Respecting the letter of which you saw a copy in the Oahu paper, so far from expressing the sentiments of the community, not more than three persons were acquainted with its contents. * See the PUBLIC REGISTER of this date. LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. 185 The rest of us were ignorant of its existence till we saw it published in the above-mentioned paper. That part of it reflecting on our respected and worthy pastor has been publicly retracted, and an apology sent down to the Sandwich Islands, to be inserted in the same paper in which the letter referred to appeared. Public worship has never been discontinued, in fact, since the death of Mr. Adams in 1829. We cannot call to mind six Sabbaths in which Divine worship, in accordance with the rules of the Established Church, has not been performed twice in the day. Whatever few exceptions there may have been, the cause was either the ill health of the teacher, or the unavoidable necessity of his attending on those who were very ill, or badly hurt. Moreover, we have a Bible class for the adults every Wednesday, and public school for the children five days a week. The number of children who attend school at present is . fifty-three ; they are all instructed, and make good progress. We have been thus explicit in the foregoing particulars, that you may understand the actual state of affairs among us/ As British subjects, to honour and obey our most gracious Sovereign, and all who are in authority under her, is our bounden duty, and we trust will ever be our privilege. " And now, Reverend Sir, we would bespeak your attention and interest for the following items : The whole community are members of the Church of England, admitted thereto in their infancy by the rite of baptism ; and the service of that Church is duly performed twice every 186 LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. Sabbath ; but we are much in want of Pray^r- books, Psalms, and Watts 1 s Hymns, for public use. The procuring some for us would be con- ferring a most essential service. Elementary books for the younger classes in the school, and Walkinghame's or other books on arithmetic for the more advanced scholars, are greatly needed. In short, the want of school requisites generally impedes the progress of the rising generation. " The next thing we would respectfully state our want of, is a medicine-chest ; for there is a vast amount of sickness among us, and serious accidents frequently occur. Our teacher possesses considerable skill as a physician, but his know- ledge is often rendered comparatively valueless from the want of the necessary remedies. " One thing more, before we conclude, we earnestly present to your consideration ; and as it comes in an especial manner within the pro- vince of your holy office, we would indulge the hope that our application will be attended with success. The case in question is this: Our teacher, who has b,een with us for nineteen years in that capacity, and whose services to us are invaluable, has never received the licence or sanction of the proper authority in that Church, of which we are a component part. This cir- cumstance is a source of much anxiety both to him and us ; and as our number amounts to 138 (71 males and 67 females), and is rapidly increasing, we do most urgently, but most re- spectfully, solicit your application to the proper quarter for a pastoral letter, inducting or sanc- tioning our teacher into the holy office he has for LETTER TO CAPTAIN HOPE. 187 so long a space of time unceasingly, untiringly, and worthily filled on this island. That he is deserving such a mark of ecclesiastical appro- bation and favour, is justly and cheerfully ac- knowledged by the whole community ; and of the great benefit which will accrue to us therefrom, no one can be more competent to judge than yourself." * The islanders also addressed a letter to Cap- tain Charles Hope, who commanded the Thalia in the Pacific in 1844, but who was prevented, much to his regret, from paying them a visit. He, however, sent them some useful presents. These did not reach them till February, 1847. In their letter of acknowledgment to Captain Hope, dated July 1847, is the following pas- sage : " Our number now amounts to one hun- dred and thirty-eight, and is rapidly increasing. Our teacher, who is a worthy man, and whose services are of great value to us, has never received the sanction or licence of the proper authorities in the Church, to qualify him for the very important and prominent situation he fills. He is most anxious, and we are no less so, that "he should be more formally inducted into the office of pastor ; and for this purpose our humble request to you is, that you will (if it can be done with propriety) make our case known to the Bishop of London, or some other competent dignitary, who would send a pastoral letter to cur teacher, sanctioning and confirming liim in the sacred office he for nineteen years has held among us." 188 PROGRESS OF RELIGION. Mr. ISTobbs had been between eighteen and nineteen years in the midst of the people, when the above letters were written ; and he had maintained and advanced among them, accord- ing to the teaching of the Church of England, those good principles with which the very name of Pitcairn has been so long and so happily associated. As their religion has been full of good fruits, so it has been of a quiet, sensible, and unosten- tatious kind. Inquiry having been made of Mr. Nobbs by some persons in the United States of America, a few years since, as to any instances of sudden and extraordinary conversion, which might have fallen under his notice, he replied that his experience did not furnish any such cases from Pitcairn, In answer to the questions put to him, he remarked, in reference to the last hours of Polly Adams, which will be found noticed in a subsequent page, as well as to some other instances of dying persons : ' " Had inquiry been made for examples of HAPPY DEATHS, I could have replied with un- mitigated satisfaction ; for I have seen many depart this life, not only happy, but triumphant. And herein is, I think, the test of the Christian character ; for when we see a person, who for a number of years has not only in word, but in deed, adorned the doctrine of God our Saviour in all things, brought by sickness or casualty to the confines of the eternal world, about to enter the precincts of the silent grave, yet with unabated energy and fervour proclaim his hope of a glorious resurrection ; when we see a person, RELIGION ON THE SICK-BED. 189 suffering the most acute pain, exhorting and encouraging others to pursue the same path he has trod, telling the love of God to his soul, and of his desire to depart, that he may enter into the presence of his Redeemer; when we wit- ness such unwavering confidence, amid sucli intense sufferings, and when the sanity of the patient is undoubted, can we hesitate to say at the demise of such an one, ' Let me die the death of the righteous, and let my last end be like his ! ' It has been my felicity to witness several departures of this description within a few years ; two from accidents, one from a cancer in the breast, one shortly after child-birth, and one from disease of the heart. All these died in the faith. Some of the diseases were lingering, others rapidly fatal ; but in all cases the subjects were ' strong in faith, giving glory to God.' ' It is pleasing to notice the terms of respect and regard in which the teacher is mentioned in the several communications from the island. Indeed, many valuable qualities appear to be united in him for the due discharge of his office. His good common sense, and plainness of speech, accompanied with an inoffensive firmness of conduct and manner, and that kind and Christian demeanour, without which all other important points of character in the " messenger of grace '' are useless and unmeaning, distinguish him as the man for the situation to which it has pleased God to call him. His remuneration had for many years been "wholly inadequate to the necessities of his family, and to the maintenance of that respect- 190 THE PASTOR'S SERVICES. able appearance, which a teacher among the community ought to hold. For instance, in writing to a clergyman at Valparaiso, in August, 1844, Mr. Nobbs said, " My stock of clothing which I brought from England is, as you. may suppose, very nearly exhausted, and I have no friends there to whom I can with propriety apply for more. Until the last three years, it was my custom to wear a black coat on the Sabbath ; but since that period, 1 have been obliged to substitute a nankeen jacket, of my own making. My only remaining coat, which is quite threadbare, is reserved for marriages and burials ; so that it is customary to say, when a- wedding is going to take place, i Teacher, you will have to put on your black coat next Sunday,' which is equivalent to informing me that a couple are going to be married," In 1849 Captain Fanshawe said, "Mr. Nobbs appears to be very much respected by all ; and his virtuous demeanour, and careful education of the young, bear testimony to the faithfulness with which he has discharged his duty, The heads of families have obviated the necessity of his seeking elsewhere some more remunerative employment, by making over to him so much land as to place him, in that respect, on an equality with themselves." It will gratify the reader to learn that this worthy and humble-minded pastor has since had a sufficient provision made for his comfort, and suitable appearance as a clergyman. The Kev. Wm. Armstrong, writing in 1849 xespectmg the islanders, reported that they coa- THE PASTOR'S SERVICES. 191 tinned to receive much benefit from the services of Mr. Nobbs, " as their religious teacher, their schoolmaster, and their doctor." During an epi- demic which prevailed in 1848, from the attacks of which not more than twenty out of one hun- dred and fifty escaped, Mr. Nobbs attended them from house to house, day and night, for a period of two months, with great success ; only one, an infant, having died. On his proposing to accept a free passage to Valparaiso, that he might accompany thither his eldest son Eeuben, and then return to his people, the whole of his adopted countrymen came and begged that it might not be so, as they could not bear to part with their pastor and friend. This appeal prevailed ; and, on Reuben's quitting the island for Valparaiso to settle in the world, the father gave the whole of the money he possessed, amounting to eight dollars, to his son. All the families joined in fitting the youth out to the best of their power, furnishing him with a supply of clothes, and making up altogether a purse of more than forty dollars, several contributing every cent they had. Mr. Nobbs afterwards received, by Commander Dillon, of the Cockatrice schooner, in 1851, seve- ral gratifying letters from Reuben. This young- man had acquired the esteem and confidence of his employers, merchants at Valparaiso, and was much valued by all who knew him. But it was deemed right, after a few years' residence there, that he should return to Pitcairn's Island, in compliance with the wish of his mother, who 192 THE PASTOR'S ELDEST SON. had been very unhappy in consequence of. his absence ; and thither he accordingly went in the spring of 1853. He afterwards took the op- portunity of returning with Captain Morshead, in the Dido, to Valparaiso, where he resumed the duties of a responsible mercantile situa- tion. But his friends having heard with deep regret, that his health had been much impaired, it was found necessary to remove him once more from Valparaiso to his native island. He was afflicted with lameness, in consequence of an accident from a gun. To this, as well as to his illness and death, allusion will be made in the progress of this work. The late excellent Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Calypso, who visited the island in 1848, afforded the following testimony to the amiable character and the happy state of the Pitcairn islanders : " We arrived here on the 9th March (1848) from Callao, but the weather being very bad, stormy and squally, as you know there is no landing except in a small nook called Bounty Bay, and very frequently not even there indeed, never in ship's boats, from the violence of the surf I did not communicate with the shore till the next day, when, having landed safely all the presents I brought for the inhabi- tants from Valparaiso, I landed myself with half the officers and youngsters, the ship standing off and on, there being no anchorage. I made the officers divide the day between them, one-half on shore, the other on board ; so they were gratified with visiting these interesting people. I never was so gratified by such a visit, and would rather CAPTAIN WORTH'S TESTIMONY. 193 have gone there than to any part of the world. They are the most interesting, contented, moral, and happy people that can be conceived. " Their delight at our arrival was beyond everything. The comfort, peace, strict morality, industry, and excessive cleanliness and neatness that was apparent about everything around them, was really such as I was not prepared to witness. Their learning and attainments in general edu- cation and information really astonishing ; all dressed in English style ; the men a fine race, and the women and children very pretty, and their manner of a superior order, ever smiling and joyous. But one mind and one wish seems to actuate them all. Crime appears to be un- known, arid if there is really true happiness on earth, it surely is theirs. " The island is romantic and beautiful ; the soil of the richest description, yielding almost every tropical fruit and vegetable : in short, it is a little paradise. I examined their laws, added a few to them, assembled them all in the church, and addressed them, saying how gratified I was to find them in the happy state they were, advising them to follow in the steps of virtue and rectitude they had hitherto done, and they would never want the sympathies of their countrymen (i. e. English), who were most interested about them. It was really affecting to see these primitive and excellent people, both old and young, 140 in the whole, looking up to me, and almost devouring all I said, with eager attention, and with scarcely a dry eye amongst them. And, ' albeit unused to the melting, N2 194 LETTER FROM MR, ARMSTRONG mood/ I found a moisture collecting in my own which I could scarcely restrain, they were so grateful, so truly thankful for all the kindnesses that had from time to time been shown them, and for the Interest in their welfare shown by us and our countrymen. I had all the men and most of the women on board ; but there was such a sea on, that the poor girls were dreadfully sea-sick. I fired some guns and let off rockets on the night of our departure ; and they returned the compliment by tiring an old honeycombed gun belonging to the Bounty^ I set them completely up gave them 100 Ibs- of powder, ensign and union-jack, casks of salt beef and pork, implements of agriculture of all kinds, clothes, bocks, &c. ; and sailed, on the ' evening of the llth, for Tahiti.'! Mr. Armstrong, in a letter, dated Valparaiso, October 18, 1849, said : " .The people tell me they have, for the present, R good "supply of books, having received a very suitable grant from the Society for . Promoting Christian Knowledge. The whole of the books will, I am sure, highly delight them ; and, from all I hear, I have no doubt they will be prized, and made good use of." The more recent account given by Captain Morshead, in a letter to Admiral Moresby, Dec. 15, 1853, deserves to be added to the array of testimony to the character of the islanders. " .With reference to the provisions that you entrusted to my discretion, I have left them on the island. Their yant harvest had been a fair average ; but, owing to a long drought, great CAPTAIN MOKSHEAD'S TESTIMONY, 195 fears were entertained for the potato crop, on which they are equally dependent. One whaler only had been supplied for the year, yet there was not on the island a single yam, potato, hog, or goat available for traffic, although they would exchange them for an equal amount of nutriment in biscuit or flour. Their famine has taught them a good lesson ; for in many houses I saw small parcels of biscuit tied up to the beams to await their pending scarcity, Under these cir- cumstances, I was induced to leave the supplies with directions that they were to be reserved for the contingency " It has long been their custom to leave any cases at issue for the decision of a captain of a man-of-war as a final appeal. Only one was left for me to decide ; it had previously been before the magistrate, and submitted to a jury, and on my confirming the opinion of their own tribunal, they all shook hands " I trust I may be allowed to add my testi- mony to their already established reputation for morality and virtue. With the Scriptures daily, even hourly, in their hands, it is impossible that any can act from higher principles or purer motives ; and all their impulses happily appear for good, while their goodness ever inclines them to judge charitably of the faults of others ; } but so simple and confiding is their nature, that any designing person thrown among them might easily destroy their peace and harmony. It has never been my lot to witness a community more entitled to admiration and respect ; and from this, estimation of their character^ it is impossible 196 LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS. to separate the credit that is due to Mr. Nobbs, who has been their friend and teacher for twenty- five years, and is now happily their spiritual guide and minister." Mr. Armstrong, to whom allusion has been made above, had for some years shown a warm feeling of regard for the happiness and welfare of the islanders. He had not only been instru- mental in transmitting some valuable presents by way of additions to their comforts, but had written them encouraging letters by H.M. S. Basilisk, Captain H. Hunt, which touched at the island in July 1844. He afterwards received the following pleasing letters from some of those in whom he had taken so warm an interest : " To the Rev. William Armstrong. " Pitcairn's Island, Aug. 7, 1845. ' " REV. SIR, Please to receive our united thanks for the presents which you have sent us. We have prepared some native commodities for you, and would have sent them by this vessel ; but the weather not being fine, and the captain being in great haste, it was delayed until an- other opportunity should present itself. The inhabitants are doing well ; we have a good school, and religion is in a flourishing condition; and I trust by the grace of God it will continue to be so. God Almighty be with you, and bless you now and for ever. Amen. "Yours, ARTHUR QUINTAL, JUN. "Chief Magistrate. LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS. 197 " P S. We should like to hear from you bj this same man, the name of the Admiral, his character, &c." " Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean, " Lat. 25 4' S., Long, 130 8' W. Sept. 26th, 1844- " HONOURED SIR, Please to accept my humble thanks for your condescension and kindness in administering to our necessities, and expressing such solicitude for our welfare. I hope myself and schoolfellows will ever retain sentiments of gratitude both toward you and our other friends in Valparaiso ; and I humbly pray the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ will have you in his holy keeping, and that after this life I may be permitted to see you all, fece to face, in the presence of Him who loved us, and washed us in his own blood. To him be glory for ever and ever. Amen, " LOUISA QUINTAL/' " Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean, "Sept 26th, 1844, " REVEREND AND HONOURED SIR, Please to accept my humble thanks for the interest you are pleased to take in our welfare, and also for the presents you and our other friends in Valparaiso have sent us ; and may they and you be rewarded a thousandfold, both in a temporal and spiritual sense. And may the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of 198 LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS. God, and the fellowship of the Holy Ghost, be with you all. Amen. U I am, Reverend Sir, your grateful Servant, " MIRIAM CHRISTIAN.'* From the Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island. " Pitcairn's Island. April 6th, 1848. " DEAR FRIEND, Long have I heard of you, though not acquainted with you, but have often heard of your friendship towards us Pitcairn islanders. Now, I have taken this opportunity to write these few lines to you, informing you of the state of things in our little island. We are all getting on very well. I hope that you and the rest of our friends are getting on well, as we are. I return you thanks for your kind letter, which I have received from H. M. S. Calypso ; also the present which is sent by you and the rest of the kind gentlemen at Valparaiso. .We have received from you all such things as are very .valuable to us, spades, saws, pots, and other articles. We have received them all with the greatest pleasure, and I return you all a thousand thanks for them. The presents are divided equally amongst us all, from the oldest woman to the youngest child. " Kind friend, this is the first opportunity I have had to write to you. I will thank you very much if you will take this fund of money which you will see in this paper, and buy me a few fish-hooks of the size you will see in the paper ; and also for my family's use six copies of Watts's Hymn-books, and one Family Bible* LETTER FROM GEORGE ADAMS. 199 Friend, I bid you farewell. Perhaps it may not be our chance to meet in this world, but 1 hope we may in a better world, where saints and angels meet ; and if it be our good luck to meet there, there we shall meet to part no more. I am obliged to close my letter in haste. " I remain, your sincere friend and well-wisher, " GEORGE ADAMS, " Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island." Besides these letters, the author has some neat " copies," in a small round hand, signed respec- tively by Albina M'Coy, Reuben Elias Nobbs, Miriam Christian, Robert Buffett, Jemima Young, Martha Young, James Chester Adams, John Adams, David Buffett, Simon Young, Frederic Young ; the two latter being grandsons of Ed- ward Young, who was on board the Bounty. These copies are from well-chosen originals, given by their master to his pupils as exercises in writing. The following are specimens : " Religion conduces both to our present and future happiness. " Wisdom and understanding should be trea- sured in your heart. " Kingdoms and crowns must eventually be laid in the dust " Strive to deserve the friendship and appro- bation of good men." There is also a leaf out of Martha Young's ciphering-book* She was afterwards married to David Buffett. The pages are filled with accu- rately finished sums in several rules of arithmetic. 200 THE SCHOOL, The School- house is a substantial building, about 56 feet long by 20 wide, conveniently supplied with forms, desks, slates, books, and maps. This room was fitted up and used for the performance of Divine Service on Sundays, and such other days as are appointed on the island. In a letter from some of the elder pupils to Captain Hope, in August 1847, a report is given of the school duties and times of attendance : " We attend school five days in the week, five hours each day. Our routine of -school duties is as follows : namely, commence with Sayer and praise ; conclude with the same, onday, recital of weekly tasks, reading the Holy Scriptures, writing, arithmetic, and class spelling. Tuesday, the same as on Monday. Wednesday, reading in history and geography, transcribing select portions of Scripture, &c. Thursday, similar to Monday and Tuesday. And on Friday, which is the busiest day of the week, transcribing words with their definitions from Walker's Dictionary ; read hymns, or rather devotional and moral poetry ; repeat Watts's and the Church Catechism; arithme- tical tables, &c. &c. ; and emulative spelling concludes the whole : we are generally an hour longer at school on this day than any other. On Wednesday afternoon the elder scholars attend the Bible class, with their parents. On the Sabbath, Divine service is performed twice, and all who can possibly attend do so. " If the request is not improper, will you, honoured Sir, procure for us some copy-slips, or models for writing, and a few of Walkinghame's JOHN BUFFETT. 201 Arithmetic, with a Key to the same ? We often hear our teacher say, if he had these helps, the work would be much easier.* 1 Before the engagement of Mr. Nobbs's ser- vices as an instructor, Mr. John Buffett, who had arrived at the island in the year 1823, afforded his assistance as teacher and pastor in the school and chapel. The life of Buffett has been one of remarkable adventure. He was born in a village near Bristol, in 1797, and was apprenticed, at an early age, to a cabinet-maker, But having a desire for a sailor's life, he left his business, and went to sea in the brig Wan- derer, of Bristol, engaged in the Newfoundland trade. He quitted the Wanderer at the end ot six or eight months, and entered the American merchant service, in which he remained between four and five years. In 1815, when a youth on board the Penelope, bound from England for Quebec, he was wrecked in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the ship having struck on a bed of rocks. Most of the people perished; but he escaped with a few others in the pinnace safe to land, where, as the ground was covered with snow, and there were no inhabitants, he suffered severe privations. In a few days some Canadian fishermen, who sailed near, descried the shipwrecked mariners, and rescued them from their perilous situation. Some years after- wards, in a voyage from Jamaica to St. John's, New Brunswick, in the brig Weasel, Buffett was shipwrecked on Situate Bay, near Boston, and was again saved from the fate which seemed ready to overtake him. In 1821, he sailed as 202 JOHN BUFFETT. mate from London in an American ship bound for Canton. From Canton he went to Manilla, and, after experiencing many trials and hard^- ships by sea, proceeded to California, where he remained for some months. He then joined the whale-ship Cyrus, of London, John Hall, master, and having procured 1,700 barrels of sperm oil, touched, in the passage homeward, at Pitcairn's Island, for refreshment. "The inhabitants," says Buffett, " being in want of some person to teach them to read and ' write, the captain asked me if I should like to lemain there. 1 told him I should, and was discharged and went ashore. When our boat landed, the natives appeared very glad to see us. We ascended the hill, and were conducted to the village, where we saw John Adams. He was a man about five feet six inches high, stout made, and very corpulent. 7 ' Little did John Buffett, in his various wan- derings, imagine that he should one day be well settled as an inhabitant of Norfolk Island. CHAPTEE VIII. INVITATION OF THE FEMALES OF PITCAIRN TO ADMIRAL MORESBY VISnrOF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND HIS LETTERS, AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN THE ISLANDERS IN 1852 MR. NOBBS^ ARRIVAL A$ VAL- PARAISO MR. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS ORDINATION AS DEACON AND PRIEST. THE narrative has now reached an important * era in the annals of Pitcairn. .The first arrival of an English Admiral at the island, in August, 1852, may be considered aiykhistorical event among the inhabitants, : and it?ay be reasonably hoped that the result of hia-Msit will prove a blessing to the people.- A m#re cordial feeling of friendship and regard has probably never been evinced by any one towards his fellow-beings, than Admiral Moresby has shown in behalf of this favoured community. Rear- Admiral Moresby, C.B., who had long been interested in the state and prospects of the islander^received, in July 1851, the following warm and hearty invitation, signed by thirteen of the female inhabitants, in the name of all of their sex on the island: "Pitcairn, July 28th, 1851. " HONOURABLE SIR,- ** From the kind interest you have evinced for pur little community, in the letter which you have sent our excellent and wortliy pastor, Mr. Nobbs, we are emboldened to send you the following request, which is that you will visit us before you leave this station;; or if it is impossible for you to do so, certainty 204 LETTER OF INVITATION, we, as loyal subjects of our gracious Queen, ought to be visited annually, if not more, by one of her ships of war. "We have never had the pleasure of welcom- ing an English Admiral to our little island, and we therefore earnestly solicit a visit from you. How inexpressibly happy shall we be if you should think fit to grant this our warmest wish ! We trust that our very secluded and isolated position, and the very few visits we have of late had from British ships of war ; will be sufficient apology for addressing the above request to you. With fervent prayers for your present and future happiness, and for that of our Queen and nation . " We remain, honoured Sir, ' ; Your sincere and affectionate well-wishers, " CAROLINE ADAMS, DORCAS YOUNG, SARAH M'CoY, SARAH ADAMS, PHCEBE ADAMS, JEMIMA YOUNG, REBECCA CHRISTIAN. HANNAH YOUNG, NANCY QUINTAL, SUSAN QUINTAL, LOUISA QUINTAL, RUTH QUINTAL, RACHEL EVANS, SARAH NOBBS. Who could decline such an invitation as this ? Admiral Fairfax Moresby could not It will be seen from the subjoined narrative, that it was In the name, and on behalf, of all the rest of the female sex on the island," VISIT OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 205 cordially accepted. The lively account, which was supplied by Mr. Nobbs, of the reception of the gallant Admiral, will serve to place the reader in possession of many interesting facts connected with the present state of the island. " On the 7th of August, 1852 (at noon), a vessel was reported, which at sunset was strongly suspected of being a ship of war. The hours of the night passed tediously away, and before sunrise next morning several of our people were seated on the precipice in front of the town, anxiously waiting the report of a gun from the ship, which would give positive confirmation to the overnight suspicion of her being a ship of war. Nor were they kept long in suspense : the booming of a cannon electrified the town, and the whole community were thrown into a state of intense excitement, more especially as it was quickly observed that she wore an Admiral's flag. -^'.Our boat repaired on board, and, after a short time, another from the ship was seen approaching the shore. The teacher and some others went to the landing-place, and had the honour and pleasure of welcoming to Pitcairn Rear-Admiral Moresby, Commander-in-Chief, the first officer of that rank that ever visited Pitcairn. The Admiral received our greetings of welcome in a most urbane manner, and both himself and his secretary, Mr. Fortescue Moresby, were pleased to express themselves much grati- fied with all they saw and heard. The Admiral attended Divine service, and was evidently sur- prised at the improvement the people had made 206 VISIT OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. in singing by note ; especially as their friend Carleton had so very limited a time for instruct- ing them. In the afternoon the Rev. Mr. Hol- man read prayers, and preached a sermon, most appropriate to the occasion, from 1st Cor. 15th chap, last verse. " The Admiral, in the course of conversation, learned from the inhabitants that they had a great desire for the ordination of their pastor, in order that he might be qualified to administer the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper ; and, with great kindness, proposed to send Mr. Nobbs to England for that purpose, leaving the Rev. Mr. Holman to officiate in his stead. The inha- bitants did not accede to this most generous offer so readily as they ought to have done ; and the reason they gave was, that in case of sickness they would have no one to prescribe for them. The Admiral told them they might do as they liked, but they were certainly much wanting to themselves and their children, if they let so favourable an opportunity pass without improv- ing it. He explained to them, very clearly and forcibly, the necessity of an ordained clergy- man being established among them, and the disabilities their children laboured under until such an event took place. They listened with breathless attention to the paternal advice of the Admiral, and most readily acquiesced in all his expansive views of the subjects most vitally connected with their welfare. But still they evinced a backwardness in agreeing to part with their teacher. The Admiral, on perceiving this, kindly told them he would give them till eleven VISIT OP ADMIRAL MORESBY* 207 o'clock to come to a decision, and that he would not retire till that period. " During their debate one of them came to inquire of the Admiral, whether Mr. Holman would teach the public school. The Admiral replied, * Certainly. 1 On this the man went away ; and at eleven o'clock, as no answer had arrived, the Admiral went to bed. About twelve o'clock word was brought that the community had agreed to let their teacher go, which was duly reported next morning to the Admiral, who remarked that they had done well in con- senting to Mr. Nobbs's departure, and that he would take upon himself the responsibility of the expenses incurred necessarily by Mr. Nobbs, although he had no doubt there were friends of the Pitcairn islanders who would cheerfully unite with him ; and further, they would never lack friends so long as they continued to deserve them. " As the point was now decided, Mr. Nobbs was requested to hold himself in readiness for embarkation, the Admiral generously under- taking to supply him with articles in which his scanty wardrobe was deficierrt. On seeing the necessity there was of an educated female to improve the domestic habits of the women generally, and hearing Mr. Nobbs remark that he would send one of his daughters to Valpa- raiso for improvement, that she might on her return instruct the others, but that he could not command funds for doing so, the Admiral replied, * Take your- child with you, and I will |3ut her to school while you are gone to Eng- 208 THE LEAVE-TAKING. land ; and when you come "back, you can take her to the island with you/ "And now comes the leave-taking, the venerable and benevolent Commander- in-Chief of her Majesty's forces in the Pacific, standing on the rocky beach at Bounty Bay (the very spot where the mutineers had landed sixty-two years before), himself the oldest person there by fifteen years, surrounded by stalwart men and matronly women, youths, maidens, and little children, every one in tears!; and most deeply affected, formed a truly impressive scene. The boat was some time in readiness before the Admiral could avail himself of an opportunity to embark. Some held him by the -hand, the elder women hanging on his neck, and the younger ones endeavouring to obtain a promise that he would revisit them. As a number of the men went on board with the Admiral, a similar scene occurred there ; and as the last boat pushed off from the ship, some of the hardy tars standing in the gangway, were detected in hastily brush- ing away a tear. The frigate now stood in for the last time, and, hoisting the royal standard, fired a salute of twenty-one guns. The tars manned the rigging, and gave three hearty cheers, and one cheer more. The islanders responded ; the band struck up c God save the Queen ; ' and the stately Portland started on her track. May He who stilleth the raging of the waves waft her propitiously to her destined port! To Admiral Moresby, Mr. Fortescue Moresby, Captain Chads, and the officers gene- | rally, the people of Pitcairn are much indebted LETTER OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 209 for many 7 very many favours. That they will long be gratefully remembered, admits not of a doubt ; and that the inhabitants may con- tinue to conduct themselves as becomes people *so highly favoured, is most devoutly to be wished." A letter from Admiral Moresby, dated Port- land, at sea, lat. 25 25' S., long. 126 29' W. August 12, 1852, informed the authorities at the Admiralty that he had reached Pitcairn's Island early on Sunday, the 8th August. From that time to the period of his departure, on the llth, he had remained on shore. The following im- portant testimony was borne by him as to the religious and moral state of the island, and to the character of the pastor : " It is impossible to do justice to the spirit of order and decency that animates the whole com- ''munity, whose number amounts to 170, strictly brought up in the Protestant faith, according to the Established Church of England, by Mr. Nobbs, their pastor and surgeon, who has for twenty-four years zealously and successfully, by precept and example, raised them to a state of the highest moral conduct and feeling. " Of all the eventful periods which have chequered my life, none have surpassed in interest, and (I trust and hope) in future good, pur visit to Pitcairn: and surely the hand of (rod has been in all this ; for by chances the most unexpected, and by favourable winds out of the usual course of the trades, we were carried in eleven days to Pitcairn's from Borobora It is impossible to describe the charm that the o2 210 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. society of the islanders throws around them, under the providence of God. The hour and the occasion served, and I have brought away their pastor and teacher, for the purpose of send- ing him to England to be ordained, and one of his daughters, who will be placed at the English clergyman's at Valparaiso, until her father's return. The islanders depend principally for their necessary supplies on the whaling-ships, which are generally American. Grreatly to their credit, the men behave in the most exemplary manner, very differently from what I expected. One rough seaman, whom I spoke to in praise of such conduct, said, < Sir, I expect if one of our fellows was to misbehave himself here, we should not leave him alive/ They are guileless and unsophisticated beyond description. The time had arrived when preparation for partial removal was necessary, and especially for the: ordination of their pastor,- or the appointment of a clergyman of the Established Church." Extract of a letter from the Admiral's Secre- tary : " At 6.30 A.M. of the 6th, as we were dancing along about eight knots an hour before a fresh breeze, we discovered a thin blue sEadow, whose outline appeared to be too well defined to be a cloud; at 9 we were certain that we saw Pitcairn's Island. Having read so much about the mutiny of the Bounty \ and the subsequent romantic his- tory of the mutineers, which has resulted in the formation of a colony celebrated for their virtue. LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 211 and simplicity, and religion, I experienced a feeling of something (I know not what to call it) on approaching the island, that I have felt when visiting some spot held sacred either from history, or from being the scene of some Biblical relation. Having a fair wind, we hoped about noon to be on shore ; but whilst we were yet twenty miles from the island, the wind came directly foul, and fell light, so that we hardly held our own, owing to the heavy swell, and all day we remained en- deavouring to work up. What a little spot it appears on the vast Pacific ! a mere rock appa- rently incapable to resist the mighty waves of so vast an ocean. Easily indeed would a ship not knowing its exact position miss it. The mutineers might well deem themselves secure on so small an island, so remotely situated at that time. Also these seas were but little fre- quented ; but even now, to give you an idea of their vast extent, notwithstanding the thousands of ships that are trading on them, we have only seen one ship at sea, and our track measures 4,500 miles. When we get close to the land, or some well-known port, we see a few. During the night we got a slant of wind, and at 6, Sunday morning the 8th, we were close to the island. - A whale-boat full of the islanders soon came off, but before coming alongside they asked per- mission to come on -board; then jumped up the side seven or eight fine tall robust fellows, and assured us of a hearty welcome when we went on shore. " I was in my cabin with Philip M'Coy, one ^ of the islanders, when the sentry came to tell mo ' 212 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. that it was prayer-time, for the Admiral always has prayers before breakfast. I said to Philip, ' 1 shall be up again directly, if you will wait/ He paused a moment, and then said, ' May I come, sir?' ' Oh, yes,' I answered. On going down, we met the rest of his companions, whom he told, and they all came in and knelt down to prayers. We then got a hurried breakfast, and the Admiral and myself immediately landed in the cutter, the water being pretty smooth. This was the only time a ship's boat was able to land, for a heavy surf generally rolls in, breaking with terrific violence on the rocky shore. The proper way to land is to come to the back of the rollers in a ship's boat; a whale-boat then comes off, you get into her, and she immediately gets ready to obey the signal of a man who stands upon a rock on shore : and directly he waves his hat, the favourable moment has arrived, the men give way, and with wonderful rapidity the boat is borne on the top of a wave to the shore. They are very sij^fcil, and in a heavy surf will gene- rally land you dry. "Mr. George Hunn Nobbs, their teacher or pastor, met us at the landing-place, and we at once ascended the cliffs by a steep winding path to a plantation of cocoa-trees, called the market-place, as all trade is carried on at this spot. Here the islanders met us and gave us a hearty welcome. Generally all the inhabitants assemble here to welcome the officers of a man- of-war ; but as it was Sunday and early, they had not arrived. We continued our way by a pretty path winding through the trees to the LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 213 town, meeting here and there detachments coming towards us. These all followed in our wake ; and Joy the time we reached Mr. Nobbs's cottage, which is situated "at the opposite end of the town, we had pretty well all the people after us. " Never were seen so many happy smiling faces, all eager to look at the first admiral that ever came to their happy island; but not one tried to push his way, or make any attempt to get before another. If we said a kind word to any of them, they looked so happy and pleased! and we did not neglect to do so. There is not one in whose face good humour, virtue, amia- bility, and kindness does not beam, and con- sequently not one whose face is not pleasing. 4 'It was now church- time, and away we all went to church. Mr. Nobbs officiated, and read the prayers impressively and earnestly: the most solemn attention was paid by all. They sang two hymns in most magnificent style ; and really I have never heard any church singing in any part of the world that could equal it, except at cathedrals ; and the whole of the credit is due to Mr. Carleton, who was left behind by accident from a whaler. u They all like to dress like English people, if they can, on Sundays. The women complain that they cannot get shoes ; but all the men can get them from the whalers. During the week, their dress consists chiefly of a dark-blue petti- coat, and a white kind of shirt, for the women : and for the men loose shirt and trousers. Their food consists chiefly of yams, cocoa-nuts, bananas* 214 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. oranges, &c., and a few fish ; and in the yam season, each family kills a large pig, so that during the hard work of digging yams they may have a little animal 'food. Sometimes they get goats' flesh, and are trying to rear a few cattle they have there. The Admiral gave them a young bull and cow, also a ram. " Both sexes work very hard indeed. They usually rise at dawn ; have family prayers ; do the work that is necessary; about dusk have supper; then they go to the singing-school or to Mr. Nobbs, or meet to have a chat. About nine or ten, they go to bed, previously having family worship. Should one of the little ones go to bed or to sleep during its mother's absence, she immediately awakes it to say its prayers. Not a soul on the island would dream of com- mencing a meal or finishing it without asking a blessing, or returning thanks. Boys and girls can swim almost as soon as they can walk ; con- sequently they can swim through the largest surf, and play about amongst the broken water on the rocks that we look at with terror. One of their greatest amusements is to have a slide, as they term it : that is, to take a piece of wood about three feet long, shaped like a canoe, with a small keel (called a surf-board); they then, holding this before them, dive under the first heavy sea, and come up the other side ; they then swim out a little way until they see a rapid heavy sea come rolling in, the higher the better : they rest their breast upon the canoe or surf- board, and are carried along on the very apex of the surf at a prodigious rate right upon the LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 215 rocks, where you think nothing can save them from being dashed to pieces, the surf seems so powerful; but in a moment they are on their legs, and prepared for another slide. Their method of fishing is equally dangerous ; the women walk upon the rocks until they see a squid; then watching the retreating sea, they run in and try to pick the squid up before the advancing surf can wash them off; but frequently they are washed off, and then they have to exert all their skill to land, for they have no surf- board to help them. " Christmas-day is a grand feast, and they keep it up in good style. But the Queen's birthday is their grand day ; it is kept up with feasting and dancing, and all sorts of merri- ment. Among the first questions everybody asks is, ' How is her Majesty the Queen? "Away, away ! we are off to the world again, truly sorry to leave this island. Their happiness in this life consists wholly in virtue, and their virtue is their truest pleasure. They think that (and how really true it is !) the more religious and virtuous you become, the happier you are ; deeming every sin to take from your enjoyment in this and the after life. They know that true pleasure is only to be obtained by obeying the will of God. Their temperance and industry give them health, food, and cheerfulness, and gain for them universal esteem, respect, and sympathy ; and as in this life they do not seek their pleasures in things below, but in a higher Power, so we may earnestly hope that the image of the Saviour will bp found in their hearts, and 216 THE ISLANDERS IN 1852. that in the next world they may be peculiarly nis own/' The following account, by one of the voyagers, brings the narrative down to Mr. Nobbs's arrival at Valparaiso, on his way to England : " These excellent people deserve all the praise -which has been bestowed upon them. They are like one large family, living in perfect harmony with each other. We were treated by them like brothers, and welcomed everywhere. The population is now twenty-one families. Arthui Quintal is the oldest man, and George Adams next, these being the only male survivors of the first generation. They are badly off for clothing, which they purchase from the whaling- vessels occasionally touching there. Their money is derived from the sale of their surplus yams, &c. ; but owing to the small size of the island, and the rapid increase of the population, they must, in a very few years, withhold from ships all supplies except water. " We arrived on the morning of Sunday, Aug. 8, 1852. As soon as we hove-to, off Bounty Bay, Arthur Quintal and George Adams, with as many as a whale-boat could contain, came on board to pay their respects to the first admiral who had ever visited them. Shortly after, they requested leave to attend prayers in the Admiral's cabin, which are read every morning by the chaplain. When break- fast was over, the band was ordered up, with which they were much delighted. "Our chaplain performed the afternoon ser- ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 217 vice, and preached an excellent sertnon. Th hymns were sung in regular parts by the whole congregation. I doubt much whether any church in England, excepting cathedrals, can boast of such a good choir. The congregation were very nicely dressed : indeed, it is a great point to have white shirts on Sundays. The Sabbath is strictly observed. The crew of the Portland requested permission, which was granted, to present the islanders with three casks of rice, twelve bags of bread, and one cask of sugar; the value of these articles being charged against their wages. Mr. Nobbs left the shore amidst the tears and blessings of his little flock, by whom lie is sincerely beloved. " Before making sail on our course, we ran in close to the island, hoisted the royal standard at the particular request of the islanders, who had never before seen it displayed, fired a royal salute, manned the rigging, and gave three cheers for the islanders, which they answered heartily. We arrived at Valparaiso on the 30th August." Mr. Nobbs having travelled by the Isthmus of Panama, sailed by the Orinoco steamer, and landed at Portsmouth on Saturday, Oct. 16, 1852. Admiral Moresby had supplied him with the means of obtaining a passage from Valparaiso to London, and generously contri- buted one hundred pounds towards such costs as might be incurred during his absence from the island. On his presenting himself to the late Bishop, his Lordship, in consideration of Mr. Nobbs's 218 OEDINATION OF MR. NOBBS. long services at Pitcairn, and the high character given of him by Admiral Moresby, as well as by other competent persons, acceded to his request to be admitted to holy orders. On Sunday morning, October 24th, 1852, an ordination took place in the parish church of St. Mary, Islington, by the Bishop of Sierra Leone, under a special commission from the Bishop of London, when Mr. Nobbs was ad- mitted to deacon's orders. Mr 1 . Richard C. Paley, B.A. of St. Peter's College, Cambridge, a grandson of the eminent Archdeacon Paley, was ordained at the same time ; both candidates having been presented by the Rev. Henry Venn, Secretary of the Church Missionary Society. Several of the clergy of the neighbourhood, arid about twenty students of the Church Missionary College, were present. Mr. Paley, who was a very young man, entered at once upon his arduous and interesting Mission at Abbeokuta, Western Africa, but was stopped by the hand of death almost at the commencement of his missionary career. The other candidate, who was more than twice his age, yet lives on, by God's good providence, for the benefit of his little flock in the Southern Pacific. On the 30th November, St. Andrews-day, 1852, the Rev. G. H. Nobbs was ordained priest in Fulham Church, by the Bishop of London. His description in the letters of orders was, " Chaplain of Pitcairn's Island." He was presented for priest's orders to the Bishop by the author of this work. CHAPTEE IX. THE REV. G. H. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE ALBERT MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOME- WARD BY NAVY BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA THE LATE BISHOP OF SYDNEY MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO EFFORTS IN ENGLAND FOR THE ISLANDERS INTELLIGENCE FROM PITCAIRN THE FIRST COMMUNION ON THE ISLAND MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN PITCAIRN IN 1853 AID RENDERED TO THE ISLANDERS. DURING his two months' stay in England, Mr. Nobbs met with various marks of kindness. The prompt and courteous attention shown him at the Admiralty, by the late lamented Augustus Stafford, M.P., Mr. T. T. Grant, and other gentlemen, he valued very highly. EU paid visits to the Duke and Duchess of North- umberland, the Bishop of London (Dr. Blom- field), the Bishop of Winchester, and Arch- deacon Grant, at whose houses he was a welcome guest. Speaking of his visit to the Bishop of London and Mrs. Blomfield, he said, " The- un- affected condescension and regard shown to 'me whilst I sojourned at Fulham Palace will long be treasured in my memory ! " The late ex- cellent Sir Eobert H. Iriglis received him with much hospitality ; and he was entertained with true kindness at Killerton, Devon, by Stt Thomas and Lady Acland, who were amongst the most kind and serviceable of his many friends. 220 RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE. On Wednesday, December 15, 1852, two days before he quitted England for Pitcairn, Mr. Nobbs embarked at Portsmouth, on board the yacht Fairy, and proceeded by appointment to Osborne House, where he was received by Colonel the Hon. C. Grey, and after a short time was pre- sented to Prince Albert.. His Koyal Highness asked many questions as to the island, and appeared much pleased with the answers given, i Mr. Nobbs having, towards the conclusion, of this interview, humbly begged' to be allowed to pay his duty in person to the Queen, and it having appeared that her Majesty had ex- pressed her readiness to receive him, the Prince was pleased to present him to her Majesty. The reception was highly gratifying to his feel- ings as a dutiful subject^ and the representative of the truly loyal community of Pitcairn 0i The Queen, who was most gracious and condescend- ing in her demeanour towards him, was pleased to present him with her portrait. " Portraits of, Prince Albert and the Eoyal Children were added. These highly-treasured gifts having been consigned at Valparaiso to the care of Captain Morshead, of H.M.S. Dido, were safely landed at Pitcairn; and, on the 3d of the follow- ing November, were exhibited to the Islanders." Their devoted loyalty on the receipt of the pic- ture of the Queen was most striking. 4 Mr. Nobbs having been placed by the Society for ike Propagation of the Gospel on its lists of Missionaries, with a salary of 50?. per annum, sailed on the 17th December, 1852, from South-, amp ton, in the Royal Mail, steam-ship La Plata. MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOMEWARD. 221 He reached the island of St. Thomas early in the year 1853, and from thence proceeded in another steamer to Navy Bay. The Directors of the Royal Mail Steam Navigation Company had kindly provided him with a free passage to that place. At the 'head of Navy Bay lies the town, which by the government of the province, and in all official documents, is styled "Colon," but by the Americans, who are its founders and chief owners, is known by the name of " Aspinw,all. n : There is the terminus of the railroad, by wEIch the traveller was conveyed about 25 miles, at a high rate, to the station of Barbacoas, on the river Chagres. Thence there was a conveyance up the river by canoes about 14 miles, to the town of Cruces. From Cruces the journey over- land to Panama, about 25 miles, was. completed on mules, over one of the very worst roads that ever existed in the world. The Panama line of railroad has. since been completed for traffic from Navy Bay on the Atlantic to the Bay of Panama on the Pacific, a distance of about 50 miles. It will be interesting to many readers to learn that the late admirable Bishop of Sydney, Dr. W. G. Broughton, travelled by this line, cross- ing,^ under circumstances of great difficulty, owing to his lameness, and enfeebled health, the Isthmus of Panama, on his way from Lima to England. It is remarkable that he reached our shores on the 18th of November, 1852, the day of the funeral of the great Duke of Wel- lington. ^ The acute and penetrating mind of the 222 THE LATE BISHOP OF SYDNEY. Duke had, many years previous, observed and appreciated Mr. Broughton's high qualities, and the strict sense of duty by which he was ever actuated. He became Archdeacon of New South Wales in 1829, and had been long esteemed in the Colony, when he was called, in 1836, to fulfil the Episcopal office in those immeasurably- spread regions, which have since been divided into several dioceses. In undertaking single- handed so laborious a task, he felt, as he after- wards wrote (Feb. 1838): " My Immble confi- dence is placed in God, who has hitherto shown us His favour and protection ; and so I am per-, suaded He will continue to do, whilst our exer- tions are directed to the promotion of His glory, by the extension of His Church upon earth, and to the edification of His people here, and theia: eternal salvation in the world to come." Bishop Broughton died in London, greatly .lamented, on the 20th February, 1853. His remains were interred in Canterbury Cathedral. He had, shortly before his death, expressed to the author much sympathy with the Pitcairn Islanders, and their Pastor. Speaking of his own difficulties in crossing the Isthmus of Panama, on mules, by canoes, and railroad, the Bishop said that, after the undertaking was all over, he had sometimes to pause and ask himself, whether it was possible that he had actually accom- plished it. The Bishop, notwithstanding the fatigue attendant upon his journey, had fully projected an important act of kindness towards the British community at Valparaiso^ which circumstances MR. NOBBS AT PANAMA. 223 prevented him from carrying into effect. He wrote to the Kev, B, Hill, late chaplain at Val- paraiso, from Lima, to inform him, that it had been his wish and intention to call at Valparaiso, in the hope that he might be serviceable to the junior members of the Episcopal Chtirch there, by conferring on them the rite of Confirmation ; that he had waited for some time, in the expec- tation of obtaining a passage to that port, but had at length, from want of a ship, been obliged to abandon his intention. Mr. Nobbs, though a well-tried traveller, and equal to the endurance of much hardship, experienced a full share of the trouble and annoyance for which the journey over the Isthmus of Panama was then proverbial. He had purposely avoided taking much luggage. Not only, however, was the charge for convey- ance exorbitant ; but, with all his care, he, for some time, lost sight of a trunk, containing, among other articles of importance, a beautiful set of silver communion plate, which had been entrusted to his care by a friend at Fulham, for use in the church at Pitcairn. This painful event, added to the ill effect of the climate, brought on an attack of fever, the symptoms of which were serious after his leaving Panama. By God's blessing, this sickness passed away. The reappearance of the goods, which were, through the active zeal of Mr. Perry, the British Consul at Panama, restored to Mr. Nobbs's hands, appears to have tended to his recovery. Two dreadful events, occurring hi the year 1856, on the Isthmus of Panama, have added p 224 MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO. to the catalogue of horrors belonging to the place ; the one a terrific conflict between some American passengers and the natives, in which the former were robbed, and several on both sides killed and wounded ; the other, a frightful accident, causing the death of between thirty and forty persons, and serious injury to seventy or eighty, on the Panama railroad. Between nine and ten miles from Aspinwall, nine cars were precipitated into a ravine thirty feet deep. On Mr. Nobbs's arrival at Valparaiso, he found his son and daughter in good health ; but he was just too late for a vessel for Pitcairn. Writing to the author from Valparaiso, he said : - "After some detention and sickness, I was graciously permitted to arrive here on the 12th of February ; and I am still detained, waiting for the Portland. Oh, how I wish to be at home ! I have divided the duty with the Rev. B. Hill at the church on shore, ever since I have been here, besides the service on board one of the British ships of war, once on each Sabbath ; so you see I am not idle. The agent for British steamers in these parts presented me with a free passage from Panama to Valparaiso. I hope my next will be dated ' Pitcairn's Island.' " Looking forward to the pleasure of being once more at home, he added, "Oh! that will be joyful.' 7 Admiral Moresby, in a letter to the author, dated Valparaiso, 31st January, 1853, said: "My heart rejoices at the completion of my wishes in Mr. Nobbs's ordination., and the FIRST COMMUNION AT PITCAIRN, 225 prospect opening to the Pitcairn community. A small sum will suffice to keep up a knowledge of the Tahitian language the voice by which the extension of the Gospel will be forwarded. I hope and trust that it will please God to give His blessing to all that has been done." The Admiral, at the same time, forwarded a communication addressed to him by the Rev, W. H. Holman, dated Pitcairn, Dec. 21st, 1852. From this it appeared that the people had been greatly pleased with the presents brought by the Cockatrice, and felt truly grateful for the kind- ness of their friends. Two deaths had occurred on the island Mary Christian, and a little boy, William Quintal ; the latter from lock-jaw, occa- sioned by a thorn running into his foot. The people were healthy, with the exception of the slight illness caused by vaccination, which had proved successful in every case. A very favourable report was given of the moral and religious character of the Islanders. The first administration of the Holy Com- munion had taken place, when the whole of the adult congregation (sixty-two persons) received the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. Soon after this, the Chief Magistrate, in the name of the community, wrote to Admiral Moresby in the following terms : "PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, January \%th, 1853. "DEAR'AND HONOUEED FATHER, "We, the inhabitants of Piteairn's Island, filled with a sense of gratitude for the many 226 LETTER TO THE ADMIRAL. favours which we have experienced at your hands, have made bold to address you in the language of children. We feel in ourselves that if kindness and protection from a parent deserve the respect and obedience of his chil- dren, we certainly owe the same to you, for the many, many favours which we have received from you ever since your arrival in this ocean. Your former favours to* us are not forgotten, and especially your kind visit to us in August last. The presents which we then received from you arid your officers, and good ship's company, and those again by the Cockatrice lately, have filled us with the deepest gratitude ; and will, we doubt not, be remembered in Pitcairn's Island when we ourselves are no more. " Situated as we are, so far away from the rest of mankind, and lying so far out of your course, we esteem it the greatest kindness in- deed that you should deign to pay us a visit as you did ; and we sincerely hope, that through the mercy and kindness of ' Him who alone can govern the unruly wills and affections of sinful men,' we may ever continue to conduct our- selves in such a manner as to merit the esteem and approbation of yourself and all our nu-^ merous friends. " In the name of the community, we beg you to accept our most sincere and hearty thanks for all your kindness to us. We feel that words are but weak to convey our thanks ; but such as they are, we hope you will accept of them as flowing from sincere and grateful hearts; and that the Giver of all good gifts, who has de- MR. N(JBBS'S RETUKN TO PITCAIRN. 227 clared that * it is more blessed to give than to receive,' may ever bless and preserve you and yours, is the sincere desire of " Your loving children, The Pitcairn Fund Committee, then sitting in London, expressed their opinion, that such an employment of the buildings as Bishop Selwyn had proposed, would in no way interfere with the well-being of the Pitcairn Islanders, if proper precautions were taken that the community of Pitcairn should be kept distinct, both as to pro- perty and self-government ; and that the whole Island should be protected from the intrusion of other settlers... PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE, 249 This view of the subject was duly communi- cated, in July, 1854, to the Government. Both in the general measure, however, of the transfer from Pitcairn to Norfolk Island, and in all its details, the Government took such a course as seemed to them the best. To the Government belongs the credit of the act, in the execution of which they evidently proceeded in accord- ance with what they deemed to be the wishes of the islanders themselves, who, as it will be seen, repeated their entreaty to Captain Fremantle, on his visit to Pitcairn, in Sep- tember, 1855, that they might be permitted to live on Norfolk Island, in the same kind of seclusion from the rest of the world as they had lived at Pitcairn. Allusion having been made to the Pitcairn Fund Committee, it is time to add a few words relative to their efforts for the Islanders. In consequence of the scanty resources of Pitcairn' s Island, some noblemen and gentlemen were induced, on the recommendation of Sir F. Moresby, with the aid of Lady Moresby, Captain and Mrs. Prevost, and Mr, and Mrs. White, of Grantham, to raise a fund for the passage and outfit of Mr. Nobbs, after his ordination, and for the supply of such things as were deemed requisite for the inhabitants. Labourers' and carpenters' tools, a proper bell for the church, medicines, a few clocks, clothing of various sorts, simple articles of furniture, cooking utensils, &c,, were required. The first meeting of the Committee was held at the Admiralty, Somerset House, on the 3rd of 250 PITCAIKN FUND COMMITTEE. December, 1852. The then Bishop of London, Dr. Blomfield, was in the chair on that occasion. The Eev. G. H. Nobbs had been invited to at- tend, and was present. Mr. Nobbs was requested by the Committee to furnish a list of articles wanted ; and a statement was supplied by him accordingly. The authorities at the Admiralty kindly assigned, for the use of the Islanders, such of the articles in his list as were among those stores of the victualling department which were not wanted for their original purpose. The rest were purchased from the fund, raised by means of liberal contributions, and were despatched in June, 1853, to Pitcairn. The Society for Promoting Christian Know- ledge, at a general meeting on the 7th of De- cember, 1852, granted One Hundred Pounds towards this fund. Mr. Nobbs was present, and addressed the Board, Admiral Moresby generously added to his former benefactions One Hundred Pounds. The exertions made in this good cause proved remarkably successful. Not only were the need- ful articles paid for from the means subscribed, but the sum of Five Hundred Pounds was invested in the stocks, for the future benefit of the Islanders. A whale-boat was bought, and sent out for them, from the same source. Agri- cultural implements, and other requisite articles, costing upwards of one hundred pounds, have since been purchased at Auckland for the com- munity by a deputation consisting of Messrs. Buffett and Evans, who went thither with the Bishop of New Zealand in the Southern Cross. PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE. 251 Though the attention of the Committee was mainly directed to the task of supplying the islanders with needful things for their support and comfort, the Members could not be indif- ferent to the progress of events in connexion with the prospects and well-being of the community ; and they unanimously expressed their willing- ness to assign the remainder of the money under their care to certain useful purposes, which were specified by Sir William Denison, the Governor of New South Wales and Norfolk Island. The particulars of the assignment of the balance to objects required for the community will be stated in the latter part of this work. The following are the names of the noblemen and gentlemen who formed the Committee: The Earl of Harrowby. The Bishop of London (Dr. Blomfield). Tke Bishop of Oxford (Dr. Wilberforce). Sir T. T. Grant, K.C.B. William Cotton, Esq. T. F. Elliot, Esq. Captain E. G. Fanshawe, R.N. Archdeacon Grant. The Lord Auckland, Bishop Rev. Ernest Hawkins, M.A. of Bath and Wells. The Bishop of New Zealand. Hon. George Waldegrave. Sir Thomas Dyke Acland,Bart. His Excellency Sir G. Grey, Vice Admiral Sir Fairfax Moresby, K.C.B. Treasurers and Trustees The Lord Bishop of London Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, Bart. M.P. ; William Cotton, Esq. Honorary Secretary Rev. T. B. Murray, M.A. Honorary Assistant Secretary G. C. Silk, Esq. Captain Inglefield, R.K Captain Prevost, R.N. Herman Merivale, Esq. Arthur Mills, Esq., M.P. Fortescue Moresby, Esq., R.N. CHAPTER X. SOME ACCOUNT OP THE LAWS OF PITCAIRN THE ISLAND REGISTER REUBEN AND FRANCIS NOBBS REUBEN'S LETTER TO ADMIRAL MORESBY REUBEN'S LAST ILLNESS HIS DEATH* SOME account of the Laws of Pitcairn will be expected "by tlie reader. The simple code of the Islanders, whilst they inhabited that spot, will serve to show with how few laws a right- minded Christian community may be governed. Early in their history they laid down a rule for themselves, never to make a law until it should t be wanted. LAW RESPECTING THE MAGISTRATE. The Magistrate is to convene the public on occasions of complaint being made to him ; and on hearing both sides of the question, commit it to a jury. He is to see all fines levied, and all public works executed ; and every one must treat him with respect. He is not to -assume any power or authority on his own responsi- bility, or without the consent of the majority of the people. A public journal shall be kept by the magistrate, and shall from time to time be read ; so that no one shall plead ignorance of the law for any crime he may commit. This journal shall be submitted to the inspection of those captains of British men-of-war which occasionally touch at the island. LAWS Afr TO THE SCHOOL. 2o3 N.B. Every person, from the age of fifteen and upwards, shall pay a fine similar to masters '* of families. LAWS REGARDING THE SCHOOL. There must be a school kept, to which all parents shall be obliged to send their children, who must previously be able to repeat the alphabet, and be of the age of from six to six- teen. Mr. Nobbs shall be placed at the head of the school, assisted by such persons as shall be named by the chief magistrate. The school- hours shall be from seven o'clock in the morning until noon, on all days excepting Saturdays and Sundays ; casualties and sickness excepted. One shilling, or an equivalent, as marked below, shall be paid for each child per month, by the parents, whether the child attend school or not. In case Mr. Nobbs does not attend, the assistant appointed by the chief magistrate shall receive the salary in proportion to the time Mr. Nobbs is absent. I Equivalent for money : s. d. One barrel of yams, valued at .... 8 One barrel of sweet potatoes .... 8 One barrel of Irish potatoes . . .12 Three good bunches of plantains ... 4 One day's labour . e ...... 2 The chief magistrate is to see the labour well performed : and goods which may be given for money, shall be delivered either at the market- place or at the house of Mr. Nobbs, as he may direct. It may here be remarked that the worthy 254 AS JTO LANDMARKS, TRADING, ETC. schoolmaster having become godfather to many of the children, charges nothing for the instruc- tion of his godchildren. LAWS RESPECTING LANDMARKS, On the 1st of January, after the magistrate is elected, he shall assemble all those who should be deemed necessary; and with them he is to visit all landmarks that are upon the island, and replace those that are lost. Should anything occur to prevent its accomplishment in the time specified (the 1st of January), the magistrate is bound to see it done the first opportunity, LAWS FOR TRADING WITH SHIPS. No person or persons shall be allowed to get spirits of any sort, from any vessel, or sell it to strangers, or any person on the island. Any- one found guilty of so doing shall be punished by fine, or such other punishment as a jury shall determine on. No intoxicating liquor whatever shall be allowed to be taken on shore, unless it be for medicinal purposes. Any person found guilty of transgressing this law shall be severely punished by a jury. No females are allowed to go on board a foreign vessel of any size or description, without the permission of the magistrate ; and in case the magistrate does not go on board himself, he is to appoint four men to look after the females. LAWS AS TO DOGS AND CATS. 255 LAWS FOR DOGS. If any one's dog is found chasing a goat, the owner of that dog shall pay a fine of one dollar and a half; one dollar to the owner of the goat or gpats, and the other half to the informer. If a dog kills, or otherwise injures a goat, the owner of the dog so offending must pay the damage ; but should suspicion rest on no particular dog, the owners of dogs generally must pay the damage. The foregoing law is of 110 effect when the goat or goats are upon culti- vated ground. Persons who have fowls or hogs in the bush may take dogs to hunt them ; but should the dogs commit damage during the hunt, the person taking the dogs to hunt must pay the damage. LAWS FOR CATS. If any person under the age of ten years shall kill a cat, he or she shall receive corporal punishment. If any one, between the ages of ten and fifteen, kill a cat, he or she shall pay a fine of twenty-five dollars ; half the fine to be given to the informer, the other half to the public. All masters of families convicted of killing a cat shall be fined fifty dollars ; half the fine to be given to the informer x the other half to the public. If a fowl be seen trespassing in a garden, the proprietor of the garden is allowed to shoot and keep it, while the owner of the fowl is obliged to return the charge of powder and shot R 256 PUBLIC WORKS, expended in killing the bird. (This is the law ; but the practice is to send back the dead fowl, and drop the claim for ammunition.) If a pig be seen trespassing, no one is allowed to give information excepting to the owner of the land, that he may not be baulked in whatever course he may think to adopt. Squid (a glutinous fish, in shape not unlike a starfish) is not allowed to be taken for food from off the rocks at the north end of the island, excepting by the owner of the rocks ; but any one may take it for bait, when going fishing. Carving upon trees is forbidden. " It seems," says Mr. Brodie, " that the lads and maidens used to amuse themselves with carving true love- knots, which are considered by the elders, who had written their own long ago, as a practice fraught with danger." The trees generally used for the above purposes were the large banana and plantain. It is as easy to write upon the leaves of these trees as upon paper. PUBLIC WORKS. The magistrate for the time being is obliged to superintend the execution of all public works, among which are ranked the building of houses, fresh thatching them -which is necessary every seven years reparations and alterations of the church, roads, and water-tanks, three of which have been cut out of the solid rock, on the west side of the island, for the supply of ves- sels, &c. In these public works, one member of each family (excepting that of Mr, Nobbs) is AS TO CATS, FOWLS, GOATS, ETC, 257 obliged to assist. With regard to the school- house and schoolmaster's residence, they are kept in repair, and altered as required, by the parents of those children who attend ; the labour contri - buted by each family being proportionate to the number of children it sends. When a man marries, he takes a share of his father's land, which land is equally divided among his children. The wife takes her pro- portion from her own father's land, and joins it to her husband's land ; so that the young couple come immediately into their landed property. It may appear strange that even the rocks upon the sea-shore should be shared out as private property: but they are of value for the collection of sea salt. LAWS FOR THE PUBLIC ANVIL, ETC. Any person taking the public anvil and public sledge-hammer from the blacksmith's shop, is to take it back after he has done with it; and in case the anvil and sledge-hammer should get lost by his neglecting to take it back, he is to get another anvil and sledge-hammer, and pay a fine of four shillings. With regard to the laws as to CATS, FOWLS, &c., the Rev. G. H. Nobbs stated as follows: If a CAT is killed without being positively detected in killing fowls, however strong the suspicion may be, the person killing such cat is obliged, as a penalty, to destroy 300 rats, whose tails must be submitted for the inspection of the B2 258 THE PITCAIRN BANK. magistrate, by way of proof that the penalty has been paid. If a FOWL is found destroying the yams or potatoes, the owner of the plantation, after giving due warning, may shoot the fowl, and retain it for his use, and may demand of the owner of such fowl the amount of powder and shot so expended, as well as the fowl. The fowls are all toe-marked. GOATS and other quadrupeds are ear-marked. If a pig gets loose from its sty, and commits any depredation, the owner is obliged to make good the damage, according to the decision of the magistrate, whose duty it is to survey the injury alleged to be done, and from whose decision a reference, if necessary, may be made to a jury ; but the final appeal is to the cap- tain of the next man-of-war touching at the island. A BANK was set on foot a few years since at Pitcairn. The dollars, which were not very numerous, were allowed to accumulate for a time, partly with the object of purchasing a vessel. But the plan did not answer, and the several deposits were returned to their owners. The islanders have, however, found means to contribute from their humble resources to the funds of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. In each of the years 1854, 1855, and 1856, they have subscribed according to their ability; their last annual benefaction having "been upwards of forty dollars. THE REGISTER OF PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, from 1790 to 1854, is a very interesting document, PUBLIC KEGISTER, 1790 93. 259 and will probably be of great value hereafter, as a record of names and events connected with that little world. The author has lately had the pleasure of receiving, as a present from the islanders, the original folio manuscript volume of the Register. A memorandum, inserted between the end of the Journal and the beginning of the Shipping List, is in the handwriting of the Rev. G. H. Nobbs, and states that the book had suffered so much from getting wet with salt water, when taken on board the Virago, early in 1853, during his absence, that it had become necessary " to prepare a new book, by copying the contents of this into it, and then continue from this date. It is my intention," he adds, " to send this to my well-beloved friend, the Rev. T. B. Murray. 1 ' Accompanying the book were the following articles: A desk made by the islanders from the bread- fruit -tree and miro wood ; a large sheet of tappa cloth ; a thick pane of glass, Which was the window of Bligh's cabin in the Bounty, and afterwards the window of Mr, Nobbs's house at Pitcairn; and some nails manu- factured from the copper bolts of the Bounty by Isaac Martin, one of the mutineers. The first entry in the manuscript occurs January 23d, 1790. " H.M.S. Bounty burned. " Fasto, wife of John Williams, died. Thurs- > day October Christian born." | The annals of 1793 are of a melancholy kind/ recounting the massacre of Fletcher Christian, John Mills, William Brown, John_ Williams, ' 260 PUBLIC REGISTER, 17941817. Isaac Martin; and the death of all the Otaheitan men, " part by jealousy among themselves, and others by the remaining Englishmen ! " In 1794 we read of " a great desire in many of the women to leave the island;" and of a boat, built on purpose to remove them, being launched, and upset. In August, the same year, " a grave was dug, and the bones of all the white men that had been murdered were buried." In November, " a conspiracy of the women to kill all the white men, when asleep in their beds, was discovered. They were all seized, a -dis- closure ensued, and all were pardoned." Nov. 30th, " The women attacked the white men, but no one was hurt. Once more pardoned, and threatened the next time with death." " 1795, May 6th. The first two canoes, for the purpose of catching fish, were made. Saw a vessel close in with the island. Mutineers much alarmed. She stood out to sea, Dec. 27th. " 1797. Endeavoured to procure a quantity of meat for salting, and to make syrup from the ti-plant and sugar-cane. " 1799. Matthew Quintal, having threatened to take the lives of Young and Adams, these two considered their lives in danger, and thought they were justified in taking away the life of Quintal, which they did with an axe. " 1800. Edward Young, a mutineer, died of asthma. " 1817. Arrived, ship Sultan, of Boston, Captain Eeynolds. Jenny, a Tahitian woman, left here in the Sultan. PUBLIC REGISTER, 18231831. 261 "1823. Arrived, ship Cyrus, of London, Captain Hall. John Buffett. came on shore, as schoolmaster. John Evans also came on shore. " 1825, Dec. 5th. Arrived, H.M.S. Blossom, Captain F, W. Beechey. " 1826, Dec. IQth. Jane Quintal left us in. the Lovely, of London, Captain Blythe. " 1828, Nov. 15th. George Nobbs came on' shore, to reside. " 1829, March 5th. JOHN ADAMS died, aged 65. " 1830, Mar. 15th. Arrived, H.M.S. Bering- apatam, Captain Hon. W, Waldegrave, with a present of clothes and agricultural implements and tools from the British Government. " 1831,1^.28^. Arrived, H.M. sloop Comet, Alexander A. Sandilands, and barque Lucy Anne, of Sydney, Government vessel, J. Currey, master, for the purpose of removing the inhabitants ot Pitcairn's Island to Tahiti. " March 6th. All the inhabitants embarked and sailed for Tahiti. " March 21st. Soon after our arrival at Ta- hiti, the Pitcairn people were taken sick. " 1831. John Buffett and family, Robert Young, Joseph Christian, &c. sailed from Tahiti, in a small schooner; but, owing to contrary winds, they landed at Lord Hood's Island. " June 21st. John Buffett, and the others on Lord Hood's Island, embarked in the French 262 PUBLIC REGISTER, 18381841. frigate Bordeaux Packet, and on the 27th landed at Pitcairn's Island. During our absence our hogs have gone wild, and destroyed our crops. After we returned, we employed ourselves in destroying the hogs. "1838, Nov. 29^. Arrived, H.M.S. Fly, Captain Russell Elliott, with a present from Rev. Mr. Rowlandson and congregation at Val- paraiso. Captain Elliott proposed electing a chief magistrate, which was adopted; and Edward Quintal was chosen. "This island was taken" possession of by Captain Elliott, on behalf of the Crown of Great 'Britain, on the 29th of November, 1838. " 1839, Nov. 9tL Arrived, H.M.S. Sparrow- hawk. Captain J. Shepherd, The captain, several officers, and General Friere, ex-President }of Chili, landed. In the afternoon the school- children were examined, and received the ap- probation of our respected visitors. Captain Shepherd afterwards divided some valuable presents among them, " 10th. Captain Shepherd and his officers attended divine service twice. At 5 P.M. they went on board. They sailed on the 12th. "1840, Feb. StL Mrs. Nobbs received a severe contusion on the shoulder, by the falling of a cocoa-nut from the tree. "Feb. 13th. Moses Young fell from a cocoa- nut-tree, at least forty feet high, and was but slightly injured. " 1841, A ugust IStL Arrived, H.M.S. Cura- 0a, Captain Jenkin Jones ; and a most oppor- tune arrival it was, for there were at least twenty PUBLIC REGISTER, 18411845. 263 cases of influenza among us." The Register goes on to describe the valuable services ren- dered by Captain Jones and the surgeon of the ship, Dr. Gunn. The Curagoa sailed on the 20th., " Sept. 19^. Died, Isabella, a native of Ta- hiti, relict of Fletcher Christian, of the Bounty. Her age was not known, but she frequently said she remembered Captain Cook arriving at Tahiti. ' " 1843, March 4th. Eleven of the inhabitants sailed in the barque America, for the purpose of exploring Elizabeth Island. " 5th. Arrived, H.M.S. Talbot, Captain Sir T. Thompson, Bart. After remaining on shore, and adjusting some of the most pressing judicial cases presented to him, he went on board, and sailed for Valparaiso. " 11th. Barque-^tmenca returned from Eliza- beth Island, our people bringing a very unfa- vourable report of it. " 1844, July 28th. Arrived, H.M.S. Basilisk, Captain Henry Hunt, bringing presents from the British Government, Admiral Thomas 3 the Rev. Mr. Armstrong, &c. " 1845, Jan. 19th. During the last week we have been employed in fishing up two of the Bounty's large guns. For fifty-five years they have been deposited at the bottom of the sea, on a bed of coral, guiltless of blood during the time so many thousands of mankind became, in Europe, food for cannon. But on Sunday last, one of the guns resumed its natural vocation at least the innoxious portion of it to wit. 264 ; _ PUBLIC EEGISTER, 1845. pouring forth fire and smoke, and causing the island to reverberate with its bellowing; the other gun is condemned to silence, having been spiked by some one in the Bounty. " 1845, April 16ih" The diary of this date contains a striking description of a storm, which, bursting over the island, greatly alarmed the inhabitants. A considerable portion of the earth was detached from the side of the hill situate at the head of a ravine, and carried into the sea ; about 300 cocoa-nut-trees were torn up by the roots, and borne along with it ; a yam-, ground, containing 1,000 yams, totally disap- peared; several fishing-boats were destroyed, and large pieces of rock were found blocking up the harbour in several parts. In the interior, 1 all the plantain patches were levelled, and about 4,000 plantain trees destroyed, one-half in full bearing, the other designed for the year 1846. " So that," says the annalist, "this^very valuable article of food we shall be without for a very long time. The fact is, that from thi^ date until August, we shall be pinched for food. But God tempers the wind to the shorn lamb; and we humbly trust that the late monitions of Providence namely, drought, sickness, and storm, which severally have afflicted us this year may be sanctified to us, and be the means of bringing us, one and all, into a closer com- munication with our God. May we remember the rod, and who hath appointed it ! May we flee to the cross of Christ for safety and succour in every time of need, always bearing in mind PUBLIC REGISTER, 1847, 265 that our heavenly Father doth not willingly afflict the children of men ! " The details which follow, respecting a serious accident to the pastor's eldest son, Reuben E. Nobbs, which resulted in what appears to be confirmed lameness, are so characteristic of the kind and brotherly feeling subsisting in the island, that they must be quoted in full. " 1847, Feb. 20th. This afternoon, as Reuben Nobbs was out on the mountains, shooting goats, his foot slipped, and he let fall his musket, which exploded and wounded him severely. The ball entered a little below the hip-joint, and passing downwards, came through on the inside of the thigh, about half-way between the groin and the knee. Providentially, some persons were within call, who immediately ran to his assistance, and tore up their shirts to stanch the blood, which was pouring forth pro- fusely. A lad was despatched to the village with the melancholy news ; and in a few minutes the whole of the inhabitants capable of going were on their way to afford relief, headed by his affectionate mother, who was almost frantic with grief. In about an hour^ they- returned, bearing him in a canoe, which they had taken up for that purpose. After some difficulty the blood was stanched, and the lad suffered but little pain. Every person ; was anxious to render assistance ; the greater part of the male inhabitants remained at night, to be ready at a moment's warning to do anything that might be required. Towards midnight he fell asleep; and so ends this melancholy day. 266 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1847 /, About daylight the wounded lad awoke, very much refreshed ; he does not com- plain much, and has but little fever. The men and grown lads have formed themselves into three watches, to attend his wants, both day and night, It is most gratifying to his parents to see the esteem in which their son is held. , 22d. Eeuben Nobbs is free from pain, but there is a considerable accession of fever; it does not appear that, either the thigh or hip- bone is injured, as he can move his leg without much difficulty or pain. From the great length of the internal wound, it is difficult to ascertain whether any of the wadding remains where the ball must have passed through. "26th. This morning a ship was reported; everybody appeared rejoiced, hoping to get some necessaries for their wounded friend. On nearing the island, she proved to be H.M S. Spy. Captain Wooldridge. ' Thank God ! ' was the grateful exclamation of many, on hearing it was a ship of war, on account of her having a surgeon on board. At 1 P.M. Captain Wool- dridge and the surgeon (Dr. Bowden) landed, who " immediately visited young Nobbs ; and after probing the wound, and ascertaining the extent of the injury, gave his opinion that there was not much danger, and that with proper attention he would, in all probability, recover, although a narrower escape from death never came beneath his notice. Captain Wooldridge, being much pressed for time, informed the inhabitants he must sail that evening. After kindly interesting himself in the welfare of the PUBLIC REGISTER, 1847 1849. 267 island, and noting down such things as the community were most in want of, at sunset the Spy sailed for Valparaiso. Mr. and Mrs. Nobbs here take the opportunity of publicly recording their grateful acknowledgments to Captain Wooldridge and Dr. Bowden for the favours conferred on their son. " June 4tk. Experienced a heavy gale from the westward, which, if it had been of long duration, would have done incalculable damage. A large piece of the banyan-tree was blown down, and the flagstaff broken in two pieces. " 1848, March 9th. Arrived H. M. S. Calypso, Captain H. Worth. "10th.At 9 A.M. Captain Worth, and a party of officers, landed; and the greeting on both sides was most cordial. Our people, men, women, and children, are almost beside them- selves." Many valuable and useful presents were brought to the island. The next day the ship was discovered four miles from the land. Cap- tain Worth, Dr. Domet, and others, again landed. The Doctor, wishing to inspect the hieroglyphics carved by the aborigines, went down the face of the cliff without the assistance of a rope a most hazardous feat. It is stated that he was the first European who had per- formed it. " At sunset the Calypso sailed, carrying with her our grateful aspirations, &c. " 1849, July 10th." A very animated de- scription is given, under this date, of the arrival of " the Pandora , Captain Wood, from Oahu 268 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1849. and Tahiti, bringing us Mr. Buffett back, who left us for the Sandwich Islands last summer. "July llth. This evening Captain Wood left us, to our great regret ; for although our ac- quaintance was of but two days' duration, the urbanity of Captain Wood, and his solicitude foi our welfare, have made a .deep and, we hope, a lasting impression on our hearts. That the good ship Pandora, and all her gallant crew, may escape the perils of the deep, and, before many months have elapsed, show her number some early day at Spithead, is the wish of their friends residing on the rock of the West. "Aug. 9th. The inhabitants are slowly re- covering from the epidemic which has pervaded the island during the last month. So general was the attack, that the public school has been discontinued, and public service but once per- formed on each Sabbath, in consequence; the teacher being fully employed attending the sick. " llth. Arrived, H.M.S. Daphne, Captain Fanshawe, from Valparaiso, via Callao, bringing the desiderata of the community, viz. a bull, cow, and some rabbits. They were landed without any difficulty by our own boats. We also received from the Rev. Mr. Armstrong several boxes of acceptable articles, and a large case of books from the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. At 3 P.M. Captain Fan- shawe and a party of the officers landed. At ' sunset they returned on board again, except the surgeon, who remained on shore, at the particu- lar request of Mr. Nobbs, who required some advice about the sick, PUBLIC REGISTER, 1849, 2G9 i. at 1 P.M. Captain Fanshawe returned on shore, with a fresh party of officers, and attended divine service. Much persuasion was used by our young people to induce Captain F. to remain another day, but he told them he could not do so with propriety. At sunset they all returned on board, and H.M.S. Dapline sailed for Tahiti. Captain Ft (as well as his officers) treated those of our people who went on board most kindly, and made most minute inquiries into our wants and actual condition. They were pleased to express their satisfaction at what they saw and heard, and left us deeply impressed with their courtesy and urbanity. May Almighty 'God have them in his holy keeping!- " Sept. 6th. A large hair seal captured on the west side of the island. Fletcher Christian first discovered it among the rocks, and was much alarmed at the sight of it. He feared to go near it, lest it should be a ghost (of which he has a great horror), or some beast of prey, but quickly ascended the hill which overlooks the town, and gave the alarm. Some persons went over to his assistance, and shot the animal just as it was making its retreat into the sea. " 20th. This day we set apart as a day of fasting and prayer. Public service commenced at 11 A.M. and ended at 1 P.M. All who could et to church attended. Text, Romans ii. 4, 5. of the females fainted during service." " SUMMARY. " This year is unprecedented in the annals of Pitcairn's Island. We have been visited by 270 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1849. two British men-of-war the Pandora, Captain Wood, and the Daphne, Captain Fanshawe. The commanders of these ships, and their offi- cers, treated the inhabitants with the greatest kindness, and were pleased to express their entire approval of all they saw and heard. The Daphne brought us a bull and a cow, and some rabbits, with a variety of other articles, from the Rev. Mr. Armstrong and other friends in Val- paraiso. The cattle and the rabbits produced a great sensation. Another' (to us) wonderful occurrence is, the arrival of so many other ships under English colours, viz. eight from the Aus- tralian colonies, bound for California, and one whaling vessel from London ; in all, nine mer- chantmen, and two ships of war. American ships have dwindled down to six whalers and one from California; in her Reuben E. Nobbs embarked for Valparaiso. " George Adams saved the life of a child alongside of a ship in the offing, " The inhabitants, with scarcely one excep- tion, have suffered from sickness very severely during the months of August, September, and October. The school was discontinued, the children being too sick to attend, and the teacher was fully (and, thank God ! efficiently) employed in ministering from house to house. Some of the cases were quite alarming, and the disease (the influenza) in general was more severe, but considerably modified from that of former years : violent spasms in the stomach and epigastric region were frequent in all stages of the com- plaint. At the close of the year, the inhabitants PUBLIC REGISTER, 1850. 271 are enjoying much better health. May the recent affliction teach us so to number our days, that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom ! " 1850 9 Jan. 23d. This day was observed as the anniversary of the settlement of this colony, sixty years since. One survivor of that strange event and sanguinary result, witnessed its cele- bration.* At daylight one of the Bounty's guns was discharged, and awakened the sleeping echoes, and the more drowsy of its inhabitants. At 10 A.M. divine service was performed. After the service, various letters received from the British Government and principal friends were read and commented upon. At twelve o'clock (noon) a number of musketeers assembled under the flagstaff, and fired a volley in honour of the day. After dinner, males and females assembled in front of the church (where the British flag was flying), and gave three cheers for Queen Victoria, three for the Government at home, three for the magistrates here, three for absent friends, three for the ladies, and three for the community in general, amid the firing of mus- kets and ringing of the bell. At sunset the gun of the Bounty was again fired, and the day closed in harmony and peace, both towards God and man. It is voted that an annual celebration be observed. "March 24^. Daniel M'Coy and Lydia Young married. " April 2QtL Charles Carleton Vieder Young born. Susannah, who died on the 15th of July following. S 272 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1851. " June 3d. John Pitcairns Elford (native of Adelaide, New South Wales) baptized. " 15th. Julia Christian died of dysentery. " July 15th. Susannah (a native of Tahiti, and last survivor of the Bounty) died from the prevailing epidemic and the exhaustion of old age combined. " Sept. 18th. Bobert Charles Grant Young born. 27th. Mrs. Eliza C. Palmer, wife of George Palmer, of Nan tucket, died of consumption. 28^. Edward Quintal (second) fell from the precipice upon the rocks below, and badly fractured his leg. "Dec. 24th. Charles William Grant born, son of the master of a whaler, whose wife had been left on the island. "1851, Jan. 1st. Thursday 0, Christian elected chief magistrate ; John Buffett, jun. and Thomas Buffett, councillors. " 8th. Mary Anne M'Coy born. " 21st. Frances Adelaide Quintal born. " 23d. Observed the anniversary of the settlement of the colony, David Buffett and Martha Young married. " March 15th. By the accidental discharge of a fowling-piece in a whale-boat that was out fishing, three persons, viz. Abraham Quintal, John Buffett, and Fletcher Nobbs, were seri- ously injured. " 30th. Anna Bose Christian died, aged three years. "April 27th. Mary Isabel Adams born. " July 13th. Fairfax Moresby Quintal born; PUBLIC REGISTER, 1851. 273 " August 5th. Joseph A. M. BufFett born. " 10th. Jacob Christian and Nancy Quintal married. " 16th. Twelve of the inhabitants sailed in the Joseph Meigs for the purpose of visiting Elizabeth Island. On their arrival at the island, they discovered a human skeleton ; and as nothing could be found that may lead to dis- cover who this unfortunate individual was, it must remain a mystery. < Sept. 5th. Thomas A. BufFett born. ' 15th. Julia E. Quintal born. ' Oct. 17th. Leonard E. W. Christian bom. ' 28th. William Ward Dillon Adams born. ' Nov. 5th. Sarah Clara Quintal born. ' 9th. Julia Anna Christian born. " llth. Thirty-eight of the inhabitants sailed in the ship Sharon, of Fairhaven, for the purpose of visiting Elizabeth Island. On Friday, 14th, after a boisterous passage of three days, they landed upon Elizabeth Island, when they imme- diately set about wooding the ship, and exploring the country, which is evidently of coral forma- tion. The soil is very scanty, and totally unfit for cultivation. Various specimens of marine shells are dispersed all over the surface of the island, which, in combination with the thickly scattered pieces of coral, render travelling both difficult and dangerous. Water is found on the north-west part of the island, slowly dripping from the roof of a cave, which cannot be reached without the aid of ropes. The island rises about sixty feet above the level of the sea. Eight human skeletons were also found upon the 274 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1852. island, lying in caves. They were doubtless the remains of some unfortunate shipwrecked seamen, as several pieces oAa wreck were found upon the shore. %! " 27th. Sarah Adams died from a disease of the spine, aged fifty-five years. " Dec. 13th. Philip M'Coy and Sarah Quintal, Benjamin Buffett and .Eliza Quintal, married. " 1852, Jan. 2d. Abraham B. Quintal elected chief magistrate ; Frederick Young and David Buffett, councillors. " 7th. At about 1 p. M. intelligence was brought to the village that Robert (a native of one of the Society Islands, and who was left here sick from the American whale-ship Bal&na) was washed from off the rocks by the surf; those who were at hand, when the news was told, immediately hastened to the place to learn the truth of the statement. Upon arriving there, and not seeing anything of him, search was made along the rocks. This also proving unsuccessful, some of the men went in their canoes to search for him outside of the rocks. A few minutes after the canoes were launched, his hat was found some thirty or forty yards from the rocks. Being convinced from this that the man was drowned, the search was continued with renewed vigour, and, about an hour after, his body was seen lying at the bottom, in about seven fathoms of water, and about twenty yards from where he was washed off. The men suc- ceeded in recovering the body, which was in- terred the same evening. It is but justice to the memory of this poor man to add, that his PUBLIC REGISTER, 1852. 275 good and quiet behaviour while among us had gained for him the esteem and good-will of all upon the island, and that his untimely end is deeply regretted by the whole com- munity. " 29th. At break of day a ship was reported close in with the shore ; all who had turned out of their beds hastened to the edge of the precipice to ascertain the truth of the statement. Scarcely had they done so, when, from the heraldic bear- ing of her colours, she was by the teacher pro- nounced to be a man-of-war. * The whale-boat was immediately manned, and in the course of a few hours she returned to shore, bringing 'with them Captain Wellesley, and others of the officers of H.M.S. D&dalus, from the Sandwich Islands, via Tahiti, bound to Valparaiso. Cap- tain Wellesley and his officers remained on shore all night, and returned on board the fol- lowing morning, when a fresh party landed from the ship. Captain Wellesley and his officers were pleased to. express their approbation of what they saw upon the island, and have, by the urbanity of their conduct during the few hours they were with us, gained the good-will and esteem of all the inhabitants. 30^. Emily W. Christian born. " 31st. At half-past seven this morning, Captain Wellesley and his officers returned on board, and the Dcedalus left this for Valparaiso, bearing the good wishes of the island. " March 7th. David E. B. Young born. " 14-th. David R. B. Young died, aged seven days. 276 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. \ " April 15th. Fletcher Christian died, after a lingering illness of many months' duration, aged forty years. As a member of the com- munity, the conduct of Fletcher Christian was ever worthy of imitation." After the full account of the visit of Admiral Moresby to the island in August 1852, it is not deemed necessary to insert extracts of that date from the Island Register. . The Adeline Gibbs, American whaler, Mr. Weeks, Master, was at Pitcairn during the visit of the Portland. Mr. and Mrs. Weeks were living ashore. " It would be a happy circumstance," wrote the Admiral, " if a person like her could be found to reside among them." The Register proceeds ; ~ " 1853. Sunday, 15th May. A sail was seen in the morning coming from the eastward, bearing down for the island, under a crowd of sail. At half-past twelve she had iieared the island suffi- ciently for the boats to go off to her. The vessel proved to be the Portland, and we had once more the satisfaction to welcome the dear and gallant Admiral Moresby, and our Pastor, the Rev. G. H. Nobbs. She also brought back the son and daughter of our worthy Pastor, the former of whom had been absent nearly four years. We were truly rejoiced to see the dear and good friends, who have done so much to promote our comfort and happiness; and we hope and trust that we may ever deserve their kindness and regard. Divine service was performed during the evening. The Rev. Mr. Holman preached a farewell sermon to the PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. 277 community, which deeply affected, and will long Tbe remembered by, them. Text from 2 Cor. xiii. 11. "Monday* 16th. The community busily en- gaged landing the various presents to them from their untiring friends and benefactors, Admiral Moresby and others, in Valparaiso and England, to all of whom we feel truly thankful. " Tuesday, 17 th. To-day, at 12, the Admiral assembled the people, and addressed them on various subjects, principally relating to the in- ternal regulations of the island. " Wednesday, 18th. This morning the Ad- miral avowed his intention to sail in the course of the day ; and in consequence all was bustle and preparation, t; Thursday, 19th. Several of the people were attacked with influenza. * ; Friday, 20th. The epidemic rapidly spread- ing; many very ill. Henry Chads Christian born. " Wednesday, 25th. Most of the people seriously ill, and unable to help themselves. " Saturday, 28th. Rainy and very thick weather. About 10 A.M. a ship was reported in sight to the westward ; 12, the ship seen from the village, and instantly recognised to be the Portland. After some hours, a crew of invalids pulled off to her. The next day, at sun-down, the good ship Portland left us, we fear, for ever. That our heavenly Father may ever preserve her gallant crew from all the dangers of the sea, and from the assaults of their spiritual arid temporal enemies, is the prayer 278 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. and earnest wish of the community at Pitcairn's Island. " 31st. Elizabeth Holman Adams born. "June 20th. Thomas Buffett and Louisa Quintal, and Fletcher Nobbs and Susan Quintal, married. " 28th. John Moresby Acland Quintal born. " Aug. 9th. William Henry Holman Chris- tian born. " 13th. Rosalina Amelia Young born. " October 5th. Ernest Hey wood Christian born. " September 19th. Sarah M'Coy had a severe fall, by which she broke her collar-bone and fractured her jaw, " 21st. Sarah M'Coy suffering much pain. " October 5th. Sarah M'Coy almost quite recovered. " 16th. George Henry Parkin Christian born. " November 2d. About 4 P.M. a sail, which was immediately pronounced to be a man-of- war, was seen coming from the eastward. The whaleboat was immediately manned ; and after a few minutes' hard rowing, some of the islanders received a hearty welcome on board H.M.S. Dido, bringing to the community some more tokens of the kind regards of their friends abroad, more especially Rear- Admiral Moresby, and his benevolent officers. "Nothing can exceed the kind treatment which theislanders received from the Captain (Morshead) and officers of the Dido. " 4th. Our people are very busily occupied in the laborious though certainly .delightful, PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853* 279 operation of landing the presents, arid conveying them up the steep ascent to the village. Fortu- nately, the weather has been very fine, so that the things are landed with comparative ease and safety ; and our worthy guests are enabled to avail themselves of a walk over the Island, and other little amusements in which they may take an interest. v " Yesterday, just in the bustle and excitement of the day, an American whale-ship, which left us the day before, made her appearance again round the east point of the Island ; and shortly after, the captain landed with the melancholy information that his ship w r as in a sinking state, occasioned by two of his crew having, the night before, with an inch-and-a-quarter auger, bored eight holes through the bottom, hoping to sink her off the Island ! Nor was it discovered until fifteen feet deep of water had made its way into the hold. He had landed to procure assistance ; and taking into consideration the unfortunate position he was in, one half of our men went immediately on board, leaving the others to con- tinue landing the things from the Dido. After fourteen hours of hard labour, they, with the assistance of the crew, succeeded in pumping out all the water, and in stopping the holes. After endeavouring in vain to be allowed to leave the mutinous characters on the Island, he again left us, to procure redress at some port where there is an American Consul, and where he might be able to replenish his stock of provisions and other stores, as those he had on board are nearly all ruined, The captain was unable to account for 280 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. the cause of the diabolical attempt to sink the ship, and endanger the lives of so many human beings. Still several of the crew have been pre- viously heard to speak with much discontent of the treatment they experienced on board, and of the tyranny of the captain. It is a most pro- vidential thing for us, that she did not sink. For having been within eighty miles of this Island, whoever were saved would naturally have come, expecting hospitality from us ; arid as there were twenty-seven persons on board, it would be a heavy draw upon our at all times circumscribed means, to have them quartered among us for perhaps several months, before chances should occur of removing them. Besides which, it is impossible to imagine how much mischief might be occasioned by having among us so many individuals, who, by all we have learnt of them, are by no means the best of characters." The incident here recorded deserves a little more notice. The circumstances attending the rescue of the whaler, which have also been related by Admiral Moresby, serve to throw additional light on the generous and disinterested character of the islanders. " They asked no reward," said the Admiral, "nor did they get any, beyond the Captain's thanks, that I know of; for all they mentioned to me was, ' The Captain thanked us very much.' ' To return to the Register : " Nov. 4:th. This afternoon the splendid pic- ture of the Queen and Royal Family was un- packed The case having been a little wetted on PUBLIC EEGISTEE, 1853. 281 landing, it was feared that it might have pene- trated to the picture ; "but fortunately , and to the inexpressible joy of every one, no wet had got to it, nor any injury whatever befallen it either here or on the passage out. It was placed for the time being in the singing-room ; and it is impossible to describe the anxious delight, and, it may be added, grateful loyalty, with which all hastened to obtain a view of so great a treasure as the picture and gift of our much-loved Sovereign. " A very fine portrait of our untiring benefac- tor, Admiral Moresby, was also brought on shore to-day by Captain Morshead, and kindly pre- sented by him to the community. This also was exhibited; and so good a likeness was it of our benign and venerated friend, that every breast was kindled anew with the warmest emotions of grateful and devoted affection. " Nov. 5tk. The men have been employed to-day in landing the remainder of the stores, including some twenty bags of biscuit and four barrels of beef which Admiral Moresby, with his wonted generosity and benevolent solicitude, ordered to be landed and kept in store for the benefit of the community, in case of any contin- gency or scarcity of provisions during the next six months ; and at 4 P.M. we had the satisfac- tion of seeing our work completed, that is, every thing carried up from the landing-place, and safely deposited under cover. In landing the things, we have been most successful, insomuch that nothing was injured, more than the slight wetting of a few bales, which have been timely attended to ; any evil consequences which might 282 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. have resulted being thus prevented ; and we desire to return our grateful thanks to Captain Morshead, and all on board the Dido, for the kind manner in which their services were ren- dered to facilitate the boat operations. " Nov. 5th. This afternoon, whilst Lucy Christian, a girl of sixteen years, was occupied in cooking, her clothes accidentally took fire. She was instantly enveloped in flames ; and had it not been for the assistance of two or three people, who fortunately happened to be within a short distance, the consequences would have been most dreadful. As it is, her arms and back are very much scorched ; but it is hoped not seriously. The Rev. Mr. Nobbs was almost immediately in attendance with medical assist- ance ; and as the surgeons of the Dido were both on board at the time, one of them was sent for, who arrived in about an hour and a half, but found that Mr. Nobbs had done everything that was necessary, and all that the most skilful surgeon could have recommended. " Nov. 6tk, Sunday. Capt. Morshead very kindly remained to spend the Sunday with us ; and both at morning and evening service, himself and a number of his officers attended our humble church. It being the first Sunday of the month, the Holy Sacrament was administered, with the , usual number of attendants. " Captain Morshead intends sailing to-morrow, first to the Gambier Islands to water* and then to Valparaiso, taking with him two members of our community, Reuben and Francis, sons of the Rev. Mr. Nobbs, who go to establish themselves LETTER FROM REUBEN. 283 in Valparaiso for a few years, the former having been for nearly four years a resident there. 7 ' The last paragraph in the portion extracted from the Island Register, records the inten- tion of the two Pitcairn brothers, Reuben and Francis Nobbs, to settle in Valparaiso for a fw years. Mention has already been made of the elder of the two brothers, and it will have been seen that, after reaching Valparaiso, where he was engaged in some mercantile business at Mr. Miller's, Reuben's health had failed. Francis was employed in studies such as might tend to fit him for greater usefulness among his fellow islanders ; but he was at once called away from these pursuits, to attend and nurse his poor brother. Subsequently, Admiral Moresby received from Reuben a letter, giving an account of his illness, and breathing a spirit of entire resignation to the will of his heavenly Father. The hand which inscribed the follow- ing lines is now cold and motionless in death ; but who that reads them will not be cheered and edified by the tone of faith and hope which pervades the letter ? Dr. Ancrum, a physician at Valparaiso, and Mrs. Ancrum, who are here alluded to, proved kind and true friends to the two brothers. To Rear-Admiral Fairfax Moresby, C.B1 \ VALPARAISO; April 14, 1854. *' DEAR ADMIRAL, Although scarcely able, through weakness and a troublesome cough, to 284 LETTER FROM REUBEN. steady myself in an upright posture for a minute at a time, still, as dear Mrs. Ancrum kindly offered to enclose for me a few lines to you, if I can possibly contrive to have them ready, I must endeavour not to lose so favourable an oppor- tunity, however little I may be able to say. " On taking a last farewell of you, and our other dear friends of the Portland, I little thoi^ht that the first letter you were to receive from me, after your arrival in England, was to inform you of the total dissolution of all my earthly plans and hopes, shattered as with an arrow from heaven, and leaving every expectation enter- tained for myself and Francis scattered to the winds. Yet I trust I can from my heart say, 'It is the Lord, let him do what seemeth Him good.' He will undoubtedly make all things work toge- ther for our good, and for the glory of His name. " Very likely Mrs. Ancrum has mentioned something respecting the circumstances which brought about the sudden change in our hopes and expectations. The narrative is very simple. 1 It was on the 31st of last month. Everything with respect to myself and Francis was going on much the same as when you left. He was ! still pursuing his studies; and my duties at) Mr. Miller's were daily growing more respon-J sible. I had for about two weeks been troubled with rather a bad cold ; and the morning of the day above-mentioned being very damp, while at my work (writing), my cough became some- what more violent ; when, suddenly, and without any warning, an immense discharge of blood from my chest, which nearly choked me ? soon LETTER FJROM KEUBEN. 285 proved that there was a rupture of some blood- vessel. The doctor was sent for immediately ; and after a little while the bleeding was checked. I was taken home, and matters appeared to be going on favourably, with the blessing of God, and the kind attendance of Dr. Ancrum, till about two o'clock next day, when another fresh discharge of blood occurred, succeeded in the course of that day and night by two others, the last of which left me on the very verge of eternity. " The next day Dr. Ancrum had me brought up to the hospital ; but the motion in coming up caused another abundant flow of blood, so that when I reached here I was reduced to perfect helplessness. Since then, however, there has been no fresh discharge; and with God's blessing, and the kindness of both Dr. and Mrs. Ancrum, 1 1 am slowly regaining my strength. Dr. An- crum very kindly allows Francis to come and stay with me the whole time, and is of opinion that the climate does not agree with him either, as he is not so well and strong as on his arrival here. Dr. Ancrum appears to have consulted with Mr. Miller and the Kev. Mr. Hill ; and they have decided that, if it pleases God to spare me, we must return home as soon as pos- sible. So they will look out for a vessel bound for Tahiti or Australia for that purpose. 4" How different it was last year ! This very day last year, I was getting my things onboard the Portland, with every imaginable joy, and the next morning started on our happy trip to dear Pitcairn. But, dear Admiral, there are no such pleasant prospects now. We received a few 286 LETTER FROM REUBEN. short letters from home the other day. They were dated January 27th, and everything seemed to be going on favourably. Father, mother, and the rest of our friends were all well. Please remember both myself and Francis to all your kind family, and to Captain Chads ; and with grateful remembrances of past and continued favours, believe me, dear Admiral, " Your obedient and very humble Servant, " REUBEN E. NOBBS. " P. S. I have been obliged to let Francis write the greater part of this." " April 29, 1854. " During the last fortnight, or since the former part of this letter was written, my health appears to have improved a little; but in my opinion, very little. I sit up nearly all day in a rocking-chair, and can walk for a few minutes at a time about my room or in the corridor. What a blessing it is to have Francis with me to attend to my numerous wants! And very attentive and good has he been ; I do not know what would have become of me had he not been here. For the first three weeks, Dr^ Ancrum would not allow me to say a single word to any one. Everything was done by signs : and no one but Francis, and one or two of the servants, was allowed to enter my room or see me. " This, dear Admiral, may seem very dreary; but it is an excellent school for weaning the affections from things temporal, and fixing them on those more abiding realities of heaven. LETTER FROM REUBEN. 287 Whether or not it is the will of God that I shall ever be permitted to leave this country, so far our prospects of procuring a passage home are very gloomy. The golden days when, through the condescending benevolence of an influential and untiring friend, a passage by a man-of-war might be procured, will, I fear, never be again renewed ! Happy days ! both for myself and the whole community of, I trust, still grateful islanders ! " There are several reasons for which I desire to lose neither time nor opportunity in returning home. Not merely that I think the voyage, if at all a pleasant one, with the balmy air of my native isle, will do much to restore me ; nor the natural desire to have my bones laid beside those of my relatives and friends. But one reason is, I cannot endure the thought of what Francis will suffer, if I am taken away, before he will be able to reach home in safety. Another reason is, the effect which I know the report of my having died in a foreign land will have upon the tender and too anxious feelings of my poor, dear mother. Still must I fervently say, ' Thy will, O Lord, be done ! Thou knowest best what to ordain concerning me ! ' " Should it please the Lord to restore me to my home, and even to a comparatively sound state of health, I shall endeavour, by His help and blessing, to improve the little talent en- trusted to my care, in assisting to further the intellectual, and in some respects the moral, improvement of my people. With many and T 288 HIS RETURN TO PITCAIRN. earnest prayers for the blessing of God upon our kind benefactor, " I remain, &c.'' j '"".yV. It pleased God to restore Reuben to the home and family-circle which he so much longed to see again. The brothers were at length enabled to leave Valparaiso ; and they reached Otaheite in safety : but they were detained there two months. They afterwards happily met with a vessel which conveyed them to Pitcairn. Admiral Moresby, writing to the author from Exmouth, said : " I have received a few lines from our friend Mr. Nobbs, dated Pitcairn's Island, 14th De- cember, 1854, on the arrival of Reuben and JFrancis. Reuben, he says, is very sick, and cannot, humanly speaking, hold out much longer. It is pleasing to know that Reuben has been granted his earnest wish. His pure spirit will no doubt go aloft; and his remains will rest in his native island.' 7 . Before this letter was written Reuben had breathed his last. His remains now rest in his native island. Francis, who has been trained in the same good ways with his brother, was, according to the last report from Norfolk Island, employed as an instructor in the school. CHAPTEE XL EXAMPLE OP REUBEN NOBBS SHADOWS OF COMING EVENTS B. TOUP NICOLAS, ESQ., CONSUL AT RAIATEA HIS JOURNAL OF A WEEK AT PITCAIRN IN 1853 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS LETTER FROM MRS. NOBBS CAPTAIN DENHAM'S SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND CAPTAIN FREMANTLE'S VISIT TO PITCAIRN HURRICANE ON THE PACIFIC EXPECTATIONS OF A REMOVAL TO NORFOLK ISLAND. SOME particulars of Reuben's last hours, as he sunk TO rest, in the presence of his father and mother, in humble reliance on his Saviour, have been drawn by the pen of a loving parent, and will appear in the progress of our work. These will serve further to illustrate the cha- racter of one whose industry, integrity, and piety were conspicuous, and whose example, it may reasonably be hoped, will be useful to the rising generation. Reuben's life, short as it was, and unmarked by any brilliant features, forms one of the cluster of good fruits which have, under God, given toPitcairn the lovely and honourable name which it has acquired. In addition to the pressure of domestic afflic- tion, which weighed heavily upon the pastor's mind at this time, he had to contend with diffi- culties of no ordinary nature. The project for a removal to Norfolk Island was now ripening ; and he who had educated so many members of the community, and had held such various offices amongst them, was naturally looked up to for T2 290 SHADOWS OF COMING EVENTS. advice and counsel. The bias of his judgment had, from the first, been in favour of a transfer to a more roomy spot. Baron de Thierry,* and others personally acquainted with Pitcairn, had represented to him, in vivid colours, the calamities which appeared too surely to impend over the island, with an increasing popula- tion, a diminishing quantity of food, and a precarious supply of indifferent water, which another landslip might cut off altogether. What a helpless position, humanly speaking, with nothing to attract shipping out of its usual course, no trade, no harbour, no means of repair, nothing but exposure and danger! Still the plan of a removal from home, a place to which the people were so fondly attached, the pastor knew to be one fraught with peril and trouble. He deemed, indeed, that the evil would, if let alone, become, like any other disease, mis- chievous by delay and neglect ; but, as a wise and skilful adviser, he declined pressing upon any one an operation which could not be con- templated without pain. Signs and shadows of coming events had then appeared. The notes of the singing- birds were no longer heard. " The birds," said he "have forsaken us. 77 All the families were then, in fact, about to take their leave of a spot full of deep interest to them, for a new, strange, and distant place of residence. Of Norfolk Island, and its present inhabitants, the author will have more to say presently, but he * In a letter dated Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, June 15, 1852. B. TOUP NICOLAS, ESQ. 291 will first communicate some further intelligence in connexion with their late position at Pitcairn. Mention has been made of the kind offices of B. Toup Nicolas, Esq., British Consul at Baia- tea, towards the community, whom he visited in the year 1853. Mr. Nicolas having forwarded an extract from his diary to the author, it is here presented to the reader as one of the most agreeable and animated of the sketches of life in Pitcairn. MR. B. TOUP NICOLAS'S WEEK AT PITCAIRN. At daylight, on the morning of Monday, the 24th of January, 1853, Pitcairn's Island was in sight from the mast-head of H.M. S. Virago, apparently about 45 miles off. As it peeped above the horizon, it recalled the top of St. Pad's Cathedral. We reached the anchorage in Bounty Bay at half-past two, under steam ; and, being the first steamer which had ever visited the island, we made up our minds to astonish the natives, with the unusual display of a ship going through the water at the rate of some six knots an hour in a dead calm. But they knew the dread mon- ster at once to be a steamer, and, although much delighted, were not equally surprised at her per- formances. A boat came off with Mr. Holman, the chaplain of the Portland, who had been left to fill the place of Mr. Nobbs, during the time the latter should be in England, where he had gone for the purpose of being ordained. They supposed that we had brought Mr. Nobbs back; 292 A WEEK AT P1TCAIRN. and his wife and daughter were also in the boat to welcome him. They, of course, were disappointed ; but, glad as the Islanders would undoubtedly have been to receive Mr. Nobbs, they would, 1 believe, have been little less sorry to lose Mr. Holman. We landed (the Virago saluting me with seven guns) without much trouble, in Captain Prevost's whale-boat, steered by one of the natives, and experienced a hearty and truly English welcome ; all of them shaking us warmly by the hand, and telling us how truly glad they were to see us ; professions which their after-kindness fully confirmed. From the landing-place we scaled a kind of zigzag goat path for about two hundred yards, which brought us to the " market-place." But instead of buildings, benches, butchers' shops, and all that constitutes an English market- place, one must fancy a floor of shrubs, and a roof of cocoa-nut trees ; a small space of a few yards being cleared away: and on this the different families bring their stock for sale, when any merchant-vessels call at the island for provisions. Here were assembled all those who were either too old or too young to reach the landing-place, and who renewed the expres- sions of good-will made to us by their relations below. We then walked towards their village, or rather the succession of detached houses, each on its own little terrace, embowered in orange and cocoa-nut trees ; and, as it was nearly tea-time, we were billeted, generally two in a house. My friend Hassan, the Turkish lieutenant, and myself, were quartered on John A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. 293 Adams, with whom Mr. Holman lives. In the evening, it being a beautiful moonlight night, we all met in front of the house where the organ is kept. The Islanders then sang several hymns and touching melodies, one of which, from its simple pathos, and from the exquisite manner in which it was sung, to the tune of " Long, long ago," I believe I shall never forget. THE SAILOR-BOY'S EARLY GRAVE. Shed not a tear o'er your friend's early bier, When I am gone, when I am gone ; Nor, if the slow-tolling bell you should hear, When I am gone, when I am gone. Weep not for me when you stand round my grave, Think Who has died, His beloved to save ; Think of the crown all the ransom'd ghall have, When I am gone, when I am gone. Plant ye a tree, which may wave over me, When I am gone, when I am gone. Sing ye a song, if my grave you should see, When I am gone, when I am gone. Come at the close of a bright summer's day Come when the sun sheds his last ling'ring ray ; Come, and rejoice that I thus pass'd away, When I am gone, when I am gone. Plant ye a rose that may bloom o'er my bed, When I am gone, when I am gone ; Breathe not a sigh for the bless'd early dead, When I am gone, when I am gone. Praise ye the Lord, that I'm free from all care, Love ye the Lord, that my bliss ye may share ; Look ye on high, and believe I am there, When I am gone, when I am gone. The voices of the Islanders are both powerful and sweet ; and the thrill of rare and unexpected pleasure I experienced on hearing them sing the above song, was never surpassed, not even 294 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. when listening to Jenny Lind. This may seem going too far ; and so may many other of the statements I make in speaking of the Pitcairn Islanders. I came prepared to do them justice, it is true ; but no more, for I could not help believing that there must be some exaggeration in the florid accounts given by voyagers who had touched at their islan.d. I came, therefore, with a mind disposed to test and to criticise ; and I leave them with the feeling that few, if any, of their qualities would not stand the severest test ; and that their conduct generally, "that is, on all main points, may triumphantly challenge the severest criticism. This is my deliberate opinion, after having been domesti- cated among them for a week, and with every 'opportunity given me for arriving at a just con- clusion ; going in and out of the houses at any hour I chose, and asking any questions I thought proper; seeing them, too, in their joy, and after- wards in their affliction. Captain Prevost having 'offered to take all the inhabitants round the island in the Virago, under steam, on the following day (Tuesday), the offer was joyfully accepted ; and at about ten o'clock the next morning our own boats and their whale-boat brought successive cargoes of men, women, and children on board, until only six people were left on the island. We then got under weigh, and slowly steamed from point to point, and in about an hour again anchored in Bounty Bay, where, after having had some cake and wine, the Islanders were safely landed. The engine-room afforded con- A WEEK AT PTTCATRN. 295 slant interest to those who were not sea-sick; but, unfortunately, most of the women and children were very much so. We landed in the afternoon ; and in the evening the Islanders again sang the songs we were never tired of hear- ing; and we amused them by dancing among ourselves, and playing at leap-frog, blind-man's buff, &c., at which they laughed heartily. The next day, Wednesday, having planted the roses, fig-trees, &c., we felt it was time to hasten on our way, and accordingly wished our friends good-bye, except the few who accom- panied us on board, intending to return in their whale-boat. At about half-past one the capstan was manned, and we were about to get under weigh, when our attention was arrested by the firing of the Bounty s gun, in farewell salute. Scarcely had the sound died away, when it was succeeded by what we at first took to be cheers ; but which, alas ! proved to be shrieks from the women and children along the cliffs. A boat was instantly manned and sent on shore ? with the two surgeons. By the help of the glass, we could see the women carrying two forms along the cliffs to- wards the houses, by which we feared that some fatal accident had occurred. In a short time a canoe came from the shore, with the melancholy tidings, that in loading the gun, the chief magistrate, Matthew M'Coy, and two others, Driver Christian, and William Evans, were seriously, if not fatally injured. On reaching the village, we found that poor 296 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. M'Coy, who had suffered the most severely, had had his arm amputated above the elbow, it hav- ing been perfectly shattered. The arm was going on well, but the surgeons gave very little nope, owing to the shock the system had received; his breathing was very difficult ; and, altogether, we could not help feeling that his hours were numbered. Poor M'Coy ! He had pleaded very hard that they would not take off his arm ; as, without it, he said he should be of very little use to his wife and his eight children. They told him it was his only chance of life, when he submitted to the amputation with unflinching nerve. It was a necessary, but, as the issue proved, a useless infliction ; he remained in the same state, hovering between life and death, until about two o'clock the next morning, when he died. The two others were severely wounded and burnt, but not dangerously ; and every hope is entertained of their recovery. - Thursday. This dreadful accident has over- whelmed the little community with grief; there is nothing but weeping; they are truly one family, bound together in heart as they are by the ties of relationship. At sunset we, that is, the officers and petty offi- cers of the Virago, and the Islanders, assembled outside the house where the body of poor M'Coy lay. His widow had begged to be allowed to take a last look of what was her husband ; the surgeons feared what the effect might be, as she was near her confinement ; but she pleaded so piteously, that, at last, they had not the heart to A WEEK AT FITCAIRN. 297 refuse. "She accordingly came, accompanied by her children ; and touching, indeed, was the scene that followed. She seemed calmer and more resigned after having seen her poor hus- band; and when I wished her good-bye, on leaving yesterday morning, she appeared better able to bear the affliction with which the Almighty had thought fit to visit her. All in the Virago gave her their best sym- pathy, and made a subscription for herself and the poor children, amounting to nearly thirty pounds, which will, we hope, in a slight degree, tend to lighten her burden. Few scenes have made a stronger impression upon my mind than the funeral of poor M'Coy, deeply impressive from the earnestness of those engaged in the ceremony, and from the absence of that form and luxury with which civilisation too often loves to bury its dead. The grave was dug in a little garden con- secrated by the ashes of the father and the brother of Matthew M'Coy, beside whose re- mains his own were about to be laid. The Burial Service was impressively read by the Rev. W. Holm an, after which a hymn jwas' sung or attempted to be sung for the accents of the poor Islanders were stifled by sobs ; and amidst these sobs the body was low- ered into the grave. It was a beautiful sunset; the tall, plume- like cocoa-nut- trees waved gently above our heads. Borne upwards from the sea, mournfully, but not discordantly, came the sound of the breakers as they burst against the shore ; while 298 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. from orange and from lime, and from a thou- sand fragrant herbs, delicious scents filled the air. Quietly and thoughtfully we retired from the spot, and gradually found our way off to the ship, to prevent giving the poor afflicted Island- ers more trouble than we could help. Friday. Christian and Evans going on well. Went with Captain Prevost; and, with the concurrent wish of the Islanders, spiked the Bounty s gun, to prevent a recurrence of the late dreadful accident, which seems to have been ca.used by using a rammer made from the rafter of a house, these rafters having a nail at each end. The gun was so honeycombed, that it could not be fired without danger of its bursting. Saturday. Christian and Evans progressing as favourably as could be expected. Made every preparation for leaving, when it came on to blow, and the Virago stood off to sea. Finding there was no chance of getting away to-day, I accompanied the rear-guard of goat-hunters to the mountains, armed with a clumsy-looking, but, I believe, true German rifle, lent me by George Adams, whose maker, boasting a name of some seven syllables, could little have anticipated that his handiwork would call forth echoes from the picturesque crags of an island in the South Pacific. Returned to the settlement r dead-beaten, with a very vivid recollection of the awfulness of the precipices, and of the wariness and activity of the goats. Sunday. This morning Captain Prevost, Koss, the assistant-surgeon, Nihill, a passenger, A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. 299 and myself, the only ones left on shore, went to church, and were much struck with the attention paid to the service by the Islanders ; several hymns and psalms were sung in their usual correct and devout manner. They repeat the responses very slowly and distinctly; so much so, indeed, as to make it difficult for us to ac- company them. Captain Prevost partook of the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, as did most of the adult Island- ers. In the afternoon we again attended church. Monday morning. The weather having mo- derated, the Virago stood in, and sent a boat on shore ; so we prepared for a final leave- taking, the two wounded men going on very well, and pronounced by the surgeons to be out of danger. As soon as the Islanders found that we really must go, they set about collecting a quantity of ripe fruit, which they insisted upon our taking, although they distressed themselves by this generosity. The old people accompanied us as far as the " Market-place," where we bade each other an affectionate adieu. To the beach we descended with the remainder of our friends ; and I do not remember ever to have seen so much mingled kissing and crying. The affectionate natures of the Islanders cause them soon to attach themselves to those who show them even a trifling kindness, and our visit had been attended with peculiar circum- stances, unfortunately, but too well calculated to touch the susceptible feelings of this warm- 300 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN, hearted race. Poor M' Coy's death had called forth our sympathy ; the strong tie of a mutual sorrow caused their tears to mingle with our farewell regrets. vs^ -,* The Pitcairn Islanders are undoubtedly a fine race ; the figures of the men being, however, better than those of the women, which betray their Tahitian origin. The expression of the face in both sexes is generally good, often singu- larly noble and intellectual ; their skin is dark, darker than I had expected, although ex- ceptions occur, particularly in children, when it is sometimes nearly white ; their eyes are large and lustrous, and their teeth beautiful. ; The week spent at Pitcairn's Island will be looked upon by me as one of the most interesting of my life. A state of society is there beheld which cannot be believed unless seen. ^ In many points, particularly in the culture of their minds, a high state of civilisation presents itself, without vice or luxury, the community living in the most primitive simplicity. But the most remarkable feature in their character is that of earnest and universal piety. And from this fountain springs their brotherly love, so true, so touching, so unlike anything I had ever seen or dreamed of, as animating a whole com- munity, that it can only be likened to the feeling that exists in a deeply religious and united private family in England. 6 So earnest is their piety, so directly does it appear to spring from Him who is the Divine Source of all religion, that I almost fancied myself in a Theocracy of the primitive ages. / LETTERS FEOM THE REV, G. H. NOBBS. 301 If I am asked, Hare they no faults ? I an- swer, Yes, two, to show that they are children ^of Adam. < The first is, that the men seemed to allow the 'women to work harder than themselves. The second, that there is a want of energy apparent in all they do, always excepting religious matters. In these I have summed up all I know to their disadvantage. How proud may England be, that it is to her this virtuous and most inte- resting community look as to their fatherland ! May HE who so marvellously raised such fruit from such seed still watch over and protect them ! B. T. N In this friendly wish and prayer for the wel- fare of the community, the reader will heartily join. The following communications will bring down the history to the period at which the removal from Pitcairn had been determined on. , The Rev. G. H. Nobbs, in a letter to the author, dated June 29th, 1855, said : "I sit down to write you a letter: but when an opportunity may occur for sending it, is beyond any calculation of mine ; it has become so rare for a vessel of any kind to visit us. Whale-ships do not come, because they rarely can obtain such an amount of vegetable refresh- ment as they require ; and merchant-ships have nothing to induce them in the way of commerce. A ship-of-war will, no doubt, occasionally pay us a flying visit of twenty-four hours ; but those 302 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. much desired gala days must necessarily be few, and very far between ; especially if war continues the order of the day. I do not make these re- marks from a querulous or discontented state of mind : but I do so in order that you, my most patient and untiring friend, may not suppose that negligence or carelessness is the cause of my writing so seldom. "And now I have to record a dispensation it has pleased Almighty God to visit on myself and family. I do not call it an afflictive dispen- sation ; for although in the bereavement many of my earthly anticipations were prostrated, still - I am most graciously permitted to sing of mercy and judgment "Last December my two sons, Reuben and Francis, who had gone to Valparaiso in the Dido, returned hither ; the eldest, Reuben, far gone in pulmonary consumption ; and the other lad betrayed incipient indications of the same disease. Their many friends in Valparaiso ad- vised their return, as the only means (humanly speaking) of restoring Francis to health, and arresting, for a short time, the fatal malady which was rapidly bearing poor Reuben to the grave. They accordingly left Valparaiso in a French ship bound to Tahiti, and remained there two months without being able to obtain a pas- sage home : but they were efficiently cared for by some good Samaritans residing there; still Reuben kept declining, and fears were enter- tained that he would never see Pitcairn's again. At length, when all hopes began to give way, an opportunity unexpectedly offered. An Ame- LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 303 rican ship from California, ostensibly bound on a pleasure trip, arrived at Tahiti ; when the owner of the vessel, in conjunction with the gentleman who professed to have chartered her, on hearing of the situation and desires of my children, promptly offered to convey them hither. They were accordingly received on board, and, after a lengthened passage of twenty-two days, arrived here. During the passage they were treated with the greatest kindness and sympathy by these gentlemen, and several other passengers, among whom was a lady, the wife of the princi- pal personage on board ; and she, too, was most indefatigable in her motherly attentions to my "poor boy. Before they left us (after a sojourn of two days) they sent on shore from their cabin- stores a very large quantity of such things as would be serviceable to Reuben, and moreover refused payment in any shape for the passage but the thanks of gratitude ; and these were most heartily accorded them by the whole community, " My poor boy sunk rapidly after his return* I saw from the first there was no probability of his recovery ; but this stroke of domestic afflic- tion was mercifully divested of much of its severity on finding that he was perfectly aware of his situation, and not only resigned to it, but anxiously desirous to depart, and enter into the joy of his Lord. Sometimes his dear mother, flattered by the specious appearance of his insidious disease, would hint at the possibility of his being yet spared to us. But with a gentle shake of the head he would reply, ' No, dear mother, I feel I am rapidly approaching the u 304 LETTERS FEOM THE RET. G. H. NOBBS. grave ; humanly speaking, my recovery is im- possible ; and that my dear father knows as well as I do ; and if it is not improper to entertain such a wish, I would rather not return to health again. My earnest desire and prayer is to depart and be with Christ, which is far better.' Such was the tenor of his discourse during the short time he was spared us ; and he died ' strong In faith, giving glory to God.' An hour before Ms death he w r as seized with a violent spa$m, which we thought would have carried him off; but he rallied again. Seeing his mother weep- ing, he said, * Do not weep, .mother ; one more such stroke, and T shall be in the arms of my Saviour.' Shortly after, he had another attack, and nothing remained but his attenuated form. The happy spirit had returned to join the glori- fied throng. He died on Friday afternoon, March 2d, at six o'clock. The Sunday before his death I administered to him the Holy Eucharist. There were eight of us present ; and it was a time of refreshing : so awfully sublime did it appear to us all, that we felt as if we were indeed where Jacob felt himself to be, on his awakening at Luz. Most grateful did I feel that I was invested with full authority to dispense this most precious rite; that I could stand by the bed of my dying child, and offer him the symbols of a dying Saviour's love, and declare the remission of sins through faith in His all- sufficient atonement. I repeat, I felt most ' grateful to those who, under God were, instru- mental in conferring upon me clerical ordination ; and I am sure a full share of that gratitude was LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 305 reflected towards yourself, my well beloved and respected friend. " The remains of my beloved child are depo- sited with their kindred dust, the first-fruits of a family of eleven children. And should it please my heavenly Father to call the survivors from time into eternity, and they were graciously per- mitted to witness as good a confession as their departed brother did, I humbly believe I could bow with submission to the righteous mandate, and say, c It is well.' " To that phase of the consistent professor's life, ' the chamber where the good man meets his fate, I can revert with unmingled satisfac- tion. It has been my privilege to attend the bed of sickness among this community for twenty- seven years, and I have frequently had the unspeakable happiness to listen to the testimony of the dying believer ; to see death so robbed of its sting, that the soul, before quitting its frail tenement, seemed invested with an antepast of heaven. Such manifestations can by no means be construed into mental hallucinations, or trans- ient feelings of excited gratitude. For not to recur to the happy state of mind in which many of our immortals have entered the ' dark valley,' here (I refer to my deceased child) was a young man prostrated in the prime of his days, and for many weeks standing on the brink of eternity, with a full and solemn view of his state deeply impressed on his mind, both from his own feelings and the conversation of his sorrowing but happy friends : yet he could, amidst the ravages and exhaustion of pulmonary consumption, so u2 306 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G, H. NOBBSr entirely resign himself to the providential dis- pensations of his heavenly Father, as to make the exemplary words of his suffering and acquiescent Saviour the frequent and earnest theme of his aspirations, ' Not my will, but Thine be done. 7 Were not these sweet words for an earthly parent to listen to ? I found them unspeakably so. Such unwavering confidence, with eternity in view, strengthens me amidst this temporal be- reavement to exclaim, ' Bless the Lord, O my soul; and all that is within me bless his holy name. 7 " Three weeks after the demise of my son, death made another inroad among us. A little boy, ten years of age, son of my wife's sister, Maria Quintal, pierced his foot with a barbed arrow (used for taking fish from the holes of the rocks) , which induced tetanus ; and in forty-eight hours after the terrible disease had commenced, his happy spirit fled to the realms of bliss. During the intervals of the violent spasmodic constrictions of the suffering bodyv^ 6 dear child would speak of his blessed Saviour^ and ask Him to take him to be with those whom He took in his arms when on earth. The patient sufferer was aware that he could not recover : still he never expressed the least fear of death. At the time of his departure, I was praying with him, his parents and several other persons kneeling around his bed, when he gave a slight shudder, and exclaimed in a clear and audible voice, Lord Jesus, receive my spirit ! ' And then went to see Him as He is. " But one fortnight had elapsed from this LETTERS FROM THE RET. G. H. NOBBS. 307 period, when another sad and awful bereavement fell upon the community. Daniel M'Coy and his wife went to the north -west side of the island in quest of fish. After descending to the rocks, Daniel left his wife, and re-ascended, with the intention of passing the head of a small inlet of the sea, and then going down to the rocks on the other side. While doing so, he fell ; and his wife saw him fall- but there was the before- mentioned inlet between them, into which a very heavy surf was running; to avoid which Daniel had gone round the head of the bight ; and it was in the act of descending to the shore, on the other side, that he fell. His wife without hesitation plunged into the heavy surf (which she had unfortunately persuaded her husband to avoid), and, landing on the opposite side of the inlet, found him on the rugged lava of the shore, a corpse ! She had the presence of mind, pre- vious to her braving the foam-crested billows, to call a lad at some distance fishing, and despatch him to the village with the sad tidings that Daniel had fallen ; but she did not then know the extent of his hurt. Less than half an hour previous, he had left her with a smile on 1 his countenance, for Daniel was always in a cheerful mood. What must have been the poor creature's agony as she sat by her dead husband, 1 with his head resting in her lap, for more than an hour ere any one could get to her assistance! Her feelings I will not attempt to describe ; but I will tell you what she did. On finding life extinct, she knelt down, and prayed that God would give her grace so to live that she might 308 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. rejoin her dear Daniel in heaven. ' For I am sure,' said she, when speaking to me on the sub- ject, 'that he was prepared for death; and that takes away the pain of my great loss.' " I was in bed at the time of the accident, suffering from bronchitis, when a long low wail reached my ear, accompanied by exclamations of grief. Jumping from my bed, I ran out of doors, forgetting that I was or had been sick ; and, on inquiring what was the matter, learned that Daniel M'Coy was badly hurt, if not killed, by falling from the precipice. Most of the men were out in their canoes fishing, it being Satur- day ; the two or three that were at home has- tened to the spot, and several of the women followed, among whom was my wife. Now, as they would have to go the same route by which the deceased fell, I was in great fear lest a similar accident might befall -Mrs. Nobbs ; and a heavy load was removed when I saw her return in safety. She had not got so far as the dangerous part of the road, when she met one of the men returning, who informed her that poor Daniel was dead. A canoe was sent to summon home the fishermen; and the whale- boat was 'manned, and taken to the spot where the corpse lay ; when with some difficulty and danger, on account of the heavy surf, it was put into the boat and brought round to Bounty Bay; then transferred to a canoe for a bier, and borne on men's shoulders to the village. I had been busy preparing bandages, and such other things as might be necessary, and placed them in the house to which I supposed he would be brought; LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 309 but the sad tidings of his death rendered all my intentions useless. However, busying myself about these things kept me in a great measure from the painful impressions induced by sus- pense, and fretting myself about the safety of my dear wife. But a chapter from the Bible, and a few words of prayer, I found to be the panacea. At length the women returned ; and my wife and eldest daughter (who, though I did' not know it, had gone) with them ; and I was truly thankful. " A messenger now came from Bounty Bay, summoning me thither; as the sister and brother of the deceased were both attacked with spas- modic fits. Taking some remedies, I started, but met them on their way home. Poor Lydia M'Coy came home in the whale-boat with the corpse. On examining the injuries, I found the spine broken at the bend of the shoulders, and the occiput badly fractured ; but there were no other bones broken that I could ascertain. " Such, and so sudden, was the death of Daniel M'Coy ; a young man beloved by all the com- munity, and most deservedly so. He is the third of the family who has met an untimely end within a very lew years. William M'Coy died from lock-jaw, occasioned by a splinter of wood running* into the upper part of his foot; Matthew M'Goy, from wounds received by the accidental explosion of the Bounty s gun. ; and now the third brother, Daniel, by falling from a precipice on the north-western side of the island. May the God of the widow support poor Lydia under the awful calamity! She has 310 LETTERS FKOM THE KEY. G. H. NOBBg. no- children to rest her affections upon, but she has a mother, and brothers, and sisters, and she has the sympathy of the whole community. On Him, who, above all others, well deserves the name of Friend, may she place her unwavering trust: to Him let her flee as a very present Help in time of trouble ; and all will be well, both for time and eternity. " There have been three other deaths since the above accident : one was a premature birth, the child surviving but a few hours ; the other two were infants under twelve months. The number of deaths on the island this year has been six; a larger amount than has occurred in any one year since our unfortunate visit to Tahiti. Up to the present date the deaths exceed the births. " We are most grateful that so large a sum as 500/. sterling has been secured for our future benefit. I do not think there will be a necessity for drawing any portion of it for the next two years, if we should remain here so long. If there should be a removal to Norfolk Island, that may alter the case. The next time you favour me with a letter, I want your opinion as to what I ought to do, if some families remain here, in preference to removing to Norfolk Island, whenever an opportunity is offered them. I have no choice on the subject. I have men- tioned it to my Diocesan, the Lord Bishop of London, in my former letter ; but I should like to have your advice also. I think it probable some families will remain, and I have no ob- jection to remain with them ; but I hold myself in readiness to go if desired to do so. LETTERS FROM THE KEY. G. H. NOBBS. 311 u In all the vicissitudes through which I have passed,- whether on the Galapagos Islands, almost perishing from thirst, or labouring in chains among malefactors of the deepest dye, on the batteries of Callao ; or waiting, with some anxiety, my turn to be the subject of a fusillade, for the amusement of Benevideis in Arauco, I have never regretted, nor desired to abandon, the course prescribed. And now, having been in- voluntarily drawn from my retirement, invested with sacerdotal authority, and placed, as it were, on a pedestal, I shall endeavour, by Divine aid, to lead this unique community, step by step, to that 'rest which remaineth for the people of God.' And may you, my friend, be spared many years to chronicle the result." Accounts of the war with Russia, and the agitating scenes which ensued, had reached the quiet islanders, and had formed a theme of serious interest in their despatches. The startling and solemn event by which, under divine Provi- dence, the Crimean conflict was stayed, is glanced at in the following postscript : 4 " P.S. September 14, 1855. I have just five minutes to say that we are all well, and that 1 forward this by a whale-ship going to Juan Fernand^:.* I have no chance to send your desk. But the first ship-of-war that comes will take it. "We learn from this ship the death of the Czar ! But there is not a newspaper on board, so we are still in the dark." * For a view of this island, see p. 324. 312 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. In another ' letter, dated Pitcairn's Island, July 19, 1855, Mr. Nobbs said : "I will briefly detail my avocations on the island. Divine Service twice on the Sabbath, and a Sunday-school for five classes (sixty per- sons) afterwards. The teachers are Jemima Young, Mary Young, Jane Nobbs, Francis Nobbs, and myself. There is also public service every afternoon at four o'clock, with the ex- ception of Saturday, on which day the men are generally out in their canoes fishing, and the women busy in preparing food for the Sabbath. " The Holy Communion is administered on the first Sunday of each month. The total number of communicants is 78. At the age of sixteen, after due preparation, they are admitted to the Lord's Table. Our day-school is from eight in the morning till one, five days in the week. There are 55 scholars. Edward Quintal is the schoolmaster.* I attend every day from ten until the dismissal. These duties, with the care of the sick, keep me in constant employ ; and, I am happy to say, beneficially so. The young man who keeps the school being incapa- citated from bodily infirmity for any other occu- pation, I have made over to him the pecuniary resources of the school, to wit, one shilling per month for each scholar, paid in potatoes, &c. So that I am altogether dependent on my stipend from the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel ; the more especially as I have now no beloved son in Valparaiso to contribute to my necessities. * Ha died in the early part of 1856. LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 313 " Nevertheless, I will take my stand upon these declarations of the son of Jesse : < Trust in the Lord, and be doing good ; dwell in the land, and verily thou shalt be fed. 7 ' He hath given meat unto them that fear Him. He will ever be mindful of his covenant. 7 But a greater than either the son or grandson of Jesse has prescribed the line of conduct imperative on the believer in these words : ' Therefore, I say unto you, Take no thought, 7 &c. &c. (St. Matt. vi. 2533.) May I have grace to appropriate them !' 7 "PITCAIRN'S, July 16, 1855. "The greatest part of the community are holding themselves in readiness for a removal ; and several have relinquished house-building. We are now on the eve of yam-harvest, and though the crop is quite a poor one, we have a good stock of sweet potatoes to turn to ; but few or none to spare for ships. However, humanly speaking, the pinch of this year is over; and perhaps by March next, we may, if it please God, be on our route for Norfolk Island. We are going on very comfortably at present. Both church and school are well attended, and a very great degree of unanimity exists. "G. H. N." A letter from Mrs. Nobbs to Mrs. Hey wood, and her daughter, Lady Belcher, will afford another example of the tone of simple, un- affected piety, and intellectual culture, per- vading the written communications from the Islanders. 314 LETTER FROiVf MRS. NOBBS. " MY DEAR LADIES, My husband has kindly left room in his letter for me to say a few words ; and I address you without any hesitation ; for you seem to me as personal acquaintances. The circumstances which brought my grandfather to this island have made the name of your husband and father as familiar to us as *- household words.' And now that I have heard my dear husband speak of the kind reception you accorded him, and have likewise become myself the recipient of your benevolence, I cannot let this oppor- tunity pass without testifying my gratitude for so much kindness to me and mine. "It has pleased God, in his inscrutable wis- dom, to call from time to eternity my beloved, my firstborn. But though the tears of natural affection will flow, and I do not restrain them, still I sorrow not as those which have no hope. For my dear child displayed so much of humility, faith, and trust, that I think I may conclude, on scriptural grounds, that he is with those who are washed in the blood of the Lamb. ' Not lost, but gone before.' Several others from amongst us have been called from time into eternity, very recently. But I perceive my husband has given you the particulars of this. It speaks to every member of this community, ' There- fore, be ye also ready ! ' " My daughters bid me offer their respects and thanks. ''Wishing you, dear sisters in Christ, every needful blessing, believe me, " Yours most gratefully, " SARAH CHRISTIAN NOBBS." SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 315 To return to the subject of the removal to Norfolk Island. Captain H. M. Denham, of H.M.S. Herald, in his " Hydrographic Notice of Islands and Reefs in the South- Western Pacific Ocean," written on Norfolk Island, 12th June, 1855, makes some interesting remarks on the place appointed as the future abode of the Pitcairn Islanders. " The passage from Sydney to Norfolk Island occupied eight days. Light baffling winds kept us four days within fifty miles of it. Our track all the way from Port Jackson was rendered as fruitful as possible, in regard to noting the cur- rent demarcation signs of the trade and variables on this route at this season of the year, together with such birds and fishes as present themselves. And by frequent casts of the lead to 200 fathoms, with a vigilant mast-head look-out, we satisfied ourselves that the way is clear of islands, or even gro wing-up dangers, . over an ample radius upon every mile of the ship's track which our track-charts will display ; the extent of night vision being distinguished from that day. " It had been published in the Sydney papers, as resulting from a cruise of the Torch, that the longitude of Norfolk Island was in error in some charts 68' ; and on my consulting the published books and charts during my passage thither, I found discrepancies which made me unusually anxious to clear up the point. Otherwise it was my intention to have passed well southward of the island to avoid the skirt of the south-easters, and so direct for the Rosaretta reef, and then take the start for Fiji ; experience having taught 316 SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND. me that this detour from Sydney to the Friendly Islands makes the best passage. " Having effected a landing on Norfolk Island on the 6th instant, a precarious process, but in our case without accident to any person or the instruments, a very satisfactory set of observa- tions, including circum-meridians for latitude, were obtained. " I am enabled to inform you, that the geo- graphic position of Norfolk Island may be re- corded as having its landing rock on the settle- ment on the south-west side in O / It Latitude 29 3 45 S. Longitude 167 58 6 E. Magnetic variation in June (1855) . 12 34 E. while Mount Pitt, the highest point of the island towards its north-west end, as deduced trigono- metrical! y, is in / a Latitude 29 56 S. Longitude ......... 167 57 E. elevated above the sea, 1,039 feet, and visible 36 miles. " The very boisterous weather in this region at this its winter season, occasioning the shifting of the ship from one side of the island to the other for shelter, has obstructed the surveying operations I designed ; nevertheless, by the assi- duity of Lieutenant Hutchinson and Mr. Smith, as well as Messrs. Howard and Wilds, I shall be enabled to improve Bradley 's chart, in regard to anchorage soundings, the edge of soundings, and its direction of meridian. SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 317 " I may remark, that I found Norfolk Island no longer a penal settlement. The convict esta- blishment was withdrawn on the 7th of May ; and it is at present occupied by an assistant commissary storekeeper, with a few hands en- gaged in rendering into tallow the surplus sheep intended for the Pitcairn Islanders, who are daily expected to occupy the island ; and whose hearts and minds, simple though they be, will not fail to adore the Queen and country which put them in possession, with fostering solicitude, of the most lovely island conceivable, with all the facilities for industry and comfort ; compris- ing fifteen square miles of land capable of tillage, 800 acres cleared and fenced, beautiful roads in- tersecting it, eighty-one substantial buildings, including chapel, schoolroom, hospital, barracks, dwelling-houses, cottages, mills, and workshops, together with household furniture, artisans' tools, and agricultural implements, the gardens stocked with seed, and the farms with 2,000 sheep, 300 cattle, horses, pigs, and poultry. ' A bounteous bestowal indeed ! " I Captain Denham sent home, among other things connected with his survey, Surgeon Eayner's " Natural History of Norfolk Island,"' and a list of trees and vegetables at Norfolk Island, by Mr. Milne, the gardener. The former was forwarded to Sir Roderick I. Murchison, Bart.; the latter to Sir William J. Hooker, Eoyal Botanical Gardens, Kew. In August, 1855, Sir William Denison, Governor of New South Wales, despatched from Sydney the Juno, a vessel of war, under the 318 VISIT OF THE JUNO TO HTCAIRN. command of Captain Fremantle, for the object and with the results detailed in the following statement. This communication appeared in the Nautical Magazine for April, 1856 : " Having left Sydney on the 6th ult., I arrived off Pitcairn's Island on the 18th instant (17th, according to the Pitcairn date). " As we approached Bounty Bay, a whale- boat, containing the magistrate, G. M. Frederick Young, and several other natives, came along- side ; and having assured us that landing was practicable, I shortly after accompanied them on shore with half the officers. " The cordial reception which is accorded to officers of men-of-war by the ingenuous, warm- hearted, and loyal inhabitants of the Island, need not be repeated. The visit of one of Her Majesty's ships is always a short season of gaiety and innocent excitement. Labour and studies are suspended, and all occupy themselves in the service and entertainment of their .wel-1 come visitors. t- "After having been heartily greeted by the whole population, we proceeded to the church and school-house, the spot usually chosen for, assembling the community upon public matters., Here the object of the mission was explained to them. The Rev. Mr. Nobbs also read out a brief description of Norfolk Island, which had been drawn up and furnished by His Excellency the Governor-General of New South Wales. " The generous proposal of Her Majesty's Government was not altogeflier unexpected ; VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRN. 319 rumours of such intention had already reached Pitcairn ; and although the mind of the people generally was made up, they asked for a day or two for inquiry and consultation, before finally deciding upon so grave a question, and one so closely affecting their future destiny* " The following evening a general meeting of the community was held, and a very large majority at once closed with the offer which had been made. Some there were, however, whose attachment to Pitcairn was apparently too strong to reconcile them to the thoughts of abandoning it. Among these was George Adams, the son of old John Adams, of the Bounty. All felt the necessity of some change, for another subdivision of land would reduce the portions to mere insig- nificant patches scarcely worth cultivating. All felt most grateful for the solicitude and liberality manifested in their behalf by Her Majesty's Government, but the anticipated removal was a melancholy subject for deliberation ; the addresses were very abrupt, and in some instances con- find to the monosyllable ' Go/ The discussion, however, ended by 153, out of a population of 187, declaring for Norfolk Island ; the rest I will not say determined to remain on Pitcairn, but they would not then acquiesce in the voice of the majority. The lamentable migration to Tahiti in 1831, still fresh in the recollection of the older and more influential part of the com- munity, no doubt prompted misgivings as to the present scheme, although they seemed greatly reanimated by the assuring prospects held out by Sir William Denison's summary, X 320 VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRN. and the account of Norfolk Island given ly the officers. " The final issue of the meeting was conveyed in writing, signed by the Magistrate and Chap- lain of the island. The islanders expressed a hope that they may be allowed to live on Norfolk Island in the same seclusion from the rest of the world as they had hitherto done at Pitcairn ; and it is impossible for anybody who has once been an eye-witness of the exemplary conduct, and the pious single-minded character of this innocent people, not to urge a compliance with a request so natural and so reasonable. There was much anxiety to know what succour or protection those that remained behind might expect hereafter, a point on which I was unable to afford positive information. George Adams, in particular, pressed hard that when the ship was sent to convey them away, the position of those who were left, with respect to the British Government, might be explained to them. It was also suggested that the time of their re- moval should not take place during the winter months, that is, between March and July : and I think I could detect a general wish, that the dissolution might be postponed till after, rather than to precede, that season of next year. " Subsequently to the meeting, I held some conversation with George Adams and the others who are disposed to stay at Pitcairn ; and being asked for advice, I endeavoured, without using any undue persuasion, to show that it would be better that no separation should take place. The VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRN. 321 few that remained would probably find themselves very much isolated, without grown-up men suffi- cient to work the plantation, or to man the boat, and without the means of controlling the crews of whalers, which now frequently call off the island for water, and to barter clothing and other necessaries for fruit and vegetables : or prevent their settling there. Much of the interest felt towards them would be transferred to Norfolk Island, whither the main body would be gone ; and it is to be feared, that without clergyman or teacher, the rising generation might not imbibe or retain those pious and moral principles which are now universal. There is great reason to expect that, when the time comes, not one will adhere to the resolution of stopping behind ; so affectionate, so attached are they to each other, and the ties of relationship necessarily so inter- woven, that the moment of parting will in all probability stifle all other considerations. " The condition of the island and of its inha- bitants has in no respect been changed since it was visited by Admiral Moresby in 1852-53. So much has been written and published about them, that it would be superfluous to recapi- tulate the peculiar characteristics which have excited so much interest in England, and gained for them the affectionate sympathy of all their fellow Christians. I can only add my corro bo- ration to their still remaining the same cheerful, docile, unsophisticated community, as they have been so often represented. The enthusiasm dis- played by the officers, and especially by the ship's company, for their welfare, was quite uncontrol- x 2 -322 VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRK, lable; they were ready to part with anything, everything, to supply or gratify them; and equally anxious to carry away some object or token in remembrance of the island, even to the stones on the beach. But the girls perceiving this, ran and collected a quantity of tappa, sufficient for every man in the ship to receive a suitable memorial. " The yam harvest having been recently gathered in, there was no deficiency of the ordinary means of subsistence ; but their stock of animal food is very limited, and fish have become of late years exceedingly scarce. A liberal con- tribution of salt meat was furnished by the men and officers from their messes, and, in addition, the Paymaster was authorized to supply them with four casks of beef on the part of the Govern- ment, likewise a small quantity of soap, of which they were almost destitute. The poor people expressed their gratitude with frank simplicity ; they especially prize any favour or attention which has its source from the Crown or Govern- ment of England, and they evince the greatest anxiety, and esteem it their highest privilege to be recognised as subjects of her most gracious Majesty. " The last man-of-war that touched at Pitcairn was the Amphitrite, in February last. An American whaler, the Matthew Luce, Mr. Coon, Master, was off the land in daily communication with the shore." In January, 1856, many of the community suffered from a catarrhal affection, the germs of VISIT OF THE DIDO* 323 the disease having been communicated, as Mr, Nobbs thought, by a California^ ship which had called at the island a few weeks previous. He had many on the sick list. " But," said he, " I am well supplied with the appropriate remedies.'' Subsequently (April 10, 1856), he gave the following graphic account: " Yesterday we were electrified by a shout from the ' Rope/ that a man-of-war was in sight. The wind was light, and she made but slow progress, However, about 9 P.M. her boat arrived off the harbour of Bounty Bay. The officers landed in our boat : it was very smooth, and the young moon was shining right into the bight. The ship proved to be the Dido ; and right glad we are to see our kind friend Captain Morshead again. She sails this afternoon. Last Sep- tember H.M.S. Juno touched here to inquire how many persons were anxious to remove to Norfolk Island. One hundred and fifty-three persons concluded to go, and we expected a vessel ere this to remove us ; but it seems they will wait till the winter months are past, and I now understand the vessel is to be here in July or August. We are very anxious to be going, for we are become gradually more strait- ened. We have had one death since I last wrote Edward Quintal, who was the school- master : his end was peace. My son Francis now teaches the school ; but I am with him four hours every day Everything goes on smoothly, and 1 trust will continue to do so. Frederick Young was re-elected this year ; and an excellent magistrate he has proved himself. 324 HURRICANE ON THE PACIFIC. " 13th April. Captain Morshead is gone down to the landing-place to embark ; and I must run after him with this hasty scrawl." Captain Morshead, writing from Valparaiso, 13th May, 1856, said that he had left the Pitcairn islanders on the 13th April, having arranged for their departure for Norfolk Island. The people were in good health. They had lately been slaying many of the cattle, their stock having increased and thriven wonderfully. The Dido was caught in a hurricane off Raiatea, and very seriously damaged. ISLAND OF JUAN FERNANDEZ. The residence of Alex. Selkirk from Sept 1704 to Feb. 17W; and the scene of the Adventures of Robinson Crusoe. CHAPTER XII. SERMONS PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS ON PITCAIRN'S ISLAND- THE HARP OF PITCAIRN EVENING HYMN " THE ANGELS* LAMENT" i BELIEVE, i BELIEVE FENOA MAITAI NATIONAL SONG SONG OF THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS BIRTHS, DEATHS, AND MARRIAGES LIST OF SHIPS SIGNALS PITCAIRN A WILDERNESS. THE reader will be glad of the opportunity of seeing some specimens of discourses preached in the distant Island of Pitcairn to the descendants of the mutineers of the Bounty. It is pleasing to observe, from the faithful and affectionate tone of address adopted by the Preacher of Pitcairn towards the little flock assembled in the church of that place, that they have the blessed means of learning what is the faith and duty of a Chris- tian. It will also be seen that these extracts, as well as some poetical ones which follow, possess a certain degree of literary merit. The following sermon was preached by Mr. Nobbs in the church at Pitcairn : Rev. xxii. 17. The Spirit and the Bride say, Come: And let him that heareth say, Come. And let him that is athirst come. And whosoever will, let him take the water of life freely. " There is in the Holy Scriptures such an adaptation to the wants of man, as a mortal and a sinner, that independently of the command to ' search ' them, we ought to make the Bible ' the 326 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. man of our counsel.' In all conditions of life, in prosperity or adversity, in sickness or health, in all places and at all times, the Bible, if referred to with a single eye and a prayerful disposition, will prove * a lamp to our feet and a light to our paths.' " Such considerations as these ought to stimu- late us in our inquiries after happiness, even if it ended with this life. But if we believe that our time of sojourning here is merely proba- tionary, and to be viewed only as an introduc- tion to another and eternal state, yet that our everlasting happiness or misery depends entirely upon the use we make of the very short period allotted to us in the flesh, then are we not inex- cusable, if we neglect those means which God, of his infinite mercy and goodness, has been pleased to put within our reach? the only means which, by the Divine blessing, can make us wise unto salvation. For 'faith, 7 we are as- sured, ' cometh by hearing, and hearing by the word of God. 7 Open the Bible, and you can scarcely look upon a page that does not inform you of our wretched state by nature, and by actual transgression. It asserts that 'by one man's transgression many were made sinners ; ' that ' the heart of man is deceitful above all things, and desperately wicked;' and it declares in unequivocal language, 'The soul that sinneth, it shall die.' Dreadful as this view of the subject may appear, and dreadful it really is to the impenitent offender, yet, blessed be God! wherever in his holy word He has pronounced a curse against sin, an offer of pardon to the SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 327 sinner, if lie will turn from his evil way, inva- riably follows. So far from desiring the death of a sinner, God hath declared, 'It is because he is God, and not man, therefore we are not consumed.' And again, ' O Israel, thou hast destroyed thyself; but in me is thy help!' Bat, though numberless exceedingly precious .pro- mises for the encouragement of the ' weary and heavy-laden ' are to be found in the Old Testa- ment, yet it is in the life and death of Jesus Christ that all the promises of his Father are fully developed; for they are all 'Yea arid Amen/ in Christ Jesus our Lord : ' For God so loved the world, that He gave his only-begotten Son, that whosoever believe th in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life.' How encou- raging, then, the thought that we have an Advo- cate with the Father a compassionate High- priest, who died for our sins, and rose again for our justification; who ever liveth to make inter- cession for us ; and who now urgeth us by his word and by his Spirit to repent and be con- verted, that our sins may be blotted out ! Majr we be made c willing in the day of his power,' even now, while we consider the importance of the words in the text, in which we have : " 1. An exhortation. 'The Spirit and the Bride say, Come.' " 2. A command. ' Let him that heareth say, Come.' "3. An encouragement. * Let him that is athirst come.' "4. A general invitation. c Whosoever will, let him take the water of life freely/ 328 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. " 1. An exhortation. ' The Spirit and the Bride say, Come.' "Our blessed Saviour said to his disciples. a short time before He suffered, ' It is expedient for you that I go away ; for if I go not away, the Comforter will not come unto you.' And it is recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, that on the day of Pentecost, the Holy Ghost, the Com- forter, descended upon the Apostles, and so endued them with power from on high, that, regardless of personal safety, they hastened forth into the midst of Jerusalem, and there, sur- rounded by a mixed and innumerable multitude, declared the wonderful works of God. " But the Holy Spirit did not descend upon the Apostles merely to invest them with mira- culous power, by which they might prove that Jesus was the Messiah, and that they, in conse- quence of their attachment to Him, while He sojourned upon earth, were thus singularly and favourably noticed. Far otherwise ; for one especial purpose of the coming of the Holy Ghost was to c convince the world of sin.' And that, this purpose was accomplished on the memorable day alluded to is certain ; for the multitude, after hearing Peter's declaration, i were pricked in their heart, and said unto Peter, and to the rest of the apostles, Men and brethren, what shall we do?' " Oh, what a glorious specimen of divine mercy was here ! what a proof that God is long- suffering, slow to anger, and willeth not the death of a sinner, but that all should turn unto Him, and live ! Here, in the very place where Christ SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND, 329 was crucified, among those who demanded his blood, did the Holy Spirit commence his opera- tions, and say to each one of them, i Come. 7 Brethren, we by nature and practice are exactly in the same state in which those Jews were. ' In us, that is, in our flesh, dwelleth no good thing.' But that same Holy Spirit who pricked the Jews in the heart is now striving with us, and convinces us, as it did them, of sin. It is allowed that the miraculous gifts of the Spirit have ceased long since, but his ordinary opera- tions in the heart of man are continued, and will continue, till the great and notable day of the Lord come. But how do we treat them? Do we encourage them? Do we desire that they may be increased within us in frequency and power ? Do we pray to be c endued with the grace of the Holy Spirit, to amend our lives according to God's holy word ? 7 Or when, in effect, He says to us, ' Come, now, and let us reason together,' do we resist his gracious influ- ences and say, ' Depart from us, we desire not the knowledge of thy ways ? ' If, alas ! this is the case, and that which the holy martyr Stephen said of the Jews, * Ye stiffnecked and uncircum- cised in heart and ears, ye do always resist the Holy Ghost,' is applicable to us, then 'there remaineth nothing but a certain fearful looking for of judgment arid .fiery indignation/ For the Almighty, whom we have insulted, will say unto us, * Because I have called and ye refused ; I have stretched out my hand, and no man re- garded; but ye have set at nought all iny coun- sel, and would none of my reproof; I also will 3,30 SERMON PREACHED ON THE laugh at your calamity, I will mock when your fear cometh ; when your fear cometh as a deso- lation, and your destruction cometh as a whirl- wind ; when distress and anguish cometh upon you. 7 " But there is another thing to be observed in this exhortation, viz. ' the BRIDE says, Come.' It is by this endearing appellation that Christ condescends to call the Church, that is, the congregation of the faithful in all ages up to the present time wherever their lot may be cast, whatever their situation in life. The constant theme of their conduct and conversation to those around is ' We are journeying unto the place of which the Lord said, I will give it you ; come thou with us, and we will do thee good, for the Lord hath spoken good concerning Israel. 7 " When Peter exhorted the alarmed Jews to repent, the members of the visible Church were few in number, and oppressed with poverty ; but did they on this account consider themselves excused from declaring the whole counsel of God, and making known the great salvation which had been effected by the death of the Lord Jesus? Certainly not. And what was the result ? Multitudes of bigoted Jews alarmed, and at least three thousand souls added to the Church. Well might St. Paul exclaim, at a somewhat later period, c God hath chosen the foolish things of the world to confound the wise, and God hath chosen the weak things of the world to confound the things that are mighty/ But time would fail me were I to attempt de- scribing a millionth part of what the Bride has SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND, 331 been ever ready to do, for the honour of her Beloved. Let it suffice to say, every individual tinder this roof has been invited by her to come unto the Lord. The valuable presents, of a religious kind, which have, from time to time, been sent to the distant island in which my lot is cast, are just so many invitations from the Church of Christ, saying, 'Come with us, and we will do thee good. 1 The Bibles, Prayer-books, sermons, tracts, and a variety of other good books which have been liberally bestowed upon us, all join in expressing the desire of their donors, ' Save yourselves from this untoward generation.' And, blessed be God ! the invitation has been accepted. The benevolent call has been, re- sponded to : ' Thy people shall be my people, and thy God my God. 7 My brethren, we live in a glorious time. Never before was there such a simultaneous movement made against the powers of darkness. Multitudes who, a few years since, had never heard of a Saviour, now have the glad tidings of salvation by Jesus Christ preached, every nation in their own lan- guage. And tens of thousands from distant lands and isles of the sea are still stretching out their hands, and saying to the Church of Christ, ' Come over and help us/ " Nor w r ill they call in vain. Every year many holy men leave their country and friends, to endure persecution, famine, nakedness, and encounter even death itself, to unstop the deaf ears, to open the blind eyes, to turn the heathen from the power of Satan unto God, that they 332 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. may receive the forgiveness of sins, and in- heritance among them which are sanctified by faith in Jesus Christ. "2. A command. * Let him that heareth say, Come.' " Our blessed Saviour knew that the Church collectively, as a body, would always be anxious for the salvation of sinners, inasmuch as thereby the glory of her Lord would be eminently exalted. But he also foresaw that individual members of that Church would be prone to luke- warmness in his cause, and bury their talent in the earth. To prevent this, He says in the text, ' Let him that heareth say, Come.' As if He had said, ' Ye profess to be my disciples to have received the remission of your sins through faith in my blood, which was shed for many. Do not, then, desire to keep so great a salvation for yourselves only, or for a few of your nearest and dearest relations. It was not my design, when I left the bosom of my Father and came down upon earth, to die for the sins of any par- ticular kindred, or tongue, or nation of mankind : my blood was shed for all the sons of Adam, that as there is none other name under heaven given among men whereby they must be saved, and as my Father desireth not the death of a sinner, but that all should turn unto him and live so whosoever cometh to him by me shall not perish, but have everlasting life. Publish, then, abroad this great salvation. Declare unto sinners what I have done for your souls ; tell them that although they have destroyed them- selves, yet in me there is help ; that ye have SERMON PREACHED ON THE INLAND. 333 found joy and peace in believing, and a good hope, through grace, to enable you to go on your way rejoicing/ " This, my friends, appears to be the purport of that part of the text now under consideration ; and, if correct, does it not loudly say to every sincere professor 'Up and be doing, that the Lord may be with thee ? ' Barren fig-trees will not be permitted to stand in Christ's vineyard. We should be instant, in season and out of season, exhorting with all long-suffering, never weary of our work ofefaith and labour of love ;, but should strive by word and deed to convince sinners of their danger, that they may turn from their evil ways. Thus doing, we shall comply with the commands of our Master, procure for ourselves an increase of happiness, and illustrate the promise of the Apostle, that ' he which con- verteth a sinner from the evil of his ways, shall save a soul from death, and hide a multitude of sins.' " 3. Encouragement. ' Let him that is athirst come. 7 " It is one of the glorious attributes of the Gospel, that a sincere reception of it renders null and void all the denunciations of the law. For whosoever has fled to it as the shadow of a great rock in a dry and weary land, who- soever is subjected to its salutary influences, is 'no longer under the law, but under grace.' The awakened sinner may write bitter things against himself, but to such an one it may be said, i Be of good cheer, .lie calleth thee.' Jesus was fully aware of the obstacles that would arise 334 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. in the way of a penitent sinner. He knew also that, as no one would flee from the wrath to come without his suggesting the necessity, so no one could escape but by his special assistance. He has, therefore, cheered the road from death unto life with encouragements and consolations. Let us, then, for the benefit of the thirsty soul, recite two or three of them. They are the words of the blessed Jesus himself ' There is joy in the presence of the angels of God over one sinner that repenteth.' ' Come unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest.' * I ana the bread of life : he that cometh to me shall never hunger, and he that belie veth on me shall never thirst.' * Him that cometh unto me I will in nowise cast out/ 'Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name, that will I do, that my Father may be glorified in me. If ye shall ask anything in my name, I will do it.' Are not these rills exceedingly delicious to the parched, fainting soul ? Ye that hunger and thirst after righteousness, declare, is it not such consolation as this that ye have need of? Yes, you may reply, if I were in- cluded, such inviting language would cheer my ' heart : my sincere desire is, to be admitted into Christ's fold : but I am so laden with sin, my corruptions are so many, I am so vile in my own eyes, and consequently must be so much more vile in His sight who is of purer eyes than to behold iniquity, that my heart faileth, and I know not wherewith to come before the Most High, " O tliou of little faith, wherefore dost thou doubt? Is not obedience better than sacrifice? SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 335 What is it that Christ requires of thee, but that thou shouldst close with his unqualified offer of free salvation ? If thou comest to Him pol- luted, He will cleanse thee ; if thou art naked, He will clothe thee ; if thou art wretched, He will cheer thee. He will give thee joy for sorrow, riches for poverty, health for sickness. To sum up the whole, come to Christ without delay. While the Spirit worketh within you, speak to Him in earnest, persevering prayer, and He will hear your supplications : you may remain in heaviness for a time ; but be not weary in well-doing, and the certain result will be that He will speak comfort to thy soul. He will enlighten thy mind, and bid thee ' go in peace, thy sins are forgiven/ " 4. A general invitation. ' Whosoever will s let him take the water of life freely. 7 " Glory be to God! salvation by Jesus Christ is so fully made known, and so frankly offered in the Gospel, that whosoever will, may take the water of life freely. Nor is the invitation confined to Gospel times. Long before Christ appeared in the flesh, the proclamation was extant. Hear the prophet Isaiah, under the influence of the Holy Spirit, crying aloud 1 Ho, every one that thirsteth, come ye to the waters ; and he that hath no money, come ye, buy, and eat; yea, come, buy wine and milk without money and without price. 1 Again Seek ye the Lord while he may be found, call upon him while he is near : let the wicked for- sake his way, and the unrighteous man his thoughts: and let him return unto the Lord, Y 336 SERMON PLEACHED ON THE ISLAND. and lie will have mercy upon him ; and to our God, for he will abundantly pardon.' Hear also what God saith by the mouth of the prophet Ezekiel ' Have I any pleasure at all in the death of the wicked, and not that he should return from his ways, and live? As I live, saith the Lord, I have no pleasure in the death of the wicked ; but that the wicked turn from his ways and live : turn ye, turn ye from your evil ways ; for why will ye die ? ' Here are no exceptions made; God willeth not the death of a sinner. He says to no one, Thou art con- demned from eternity ; but contrariwise, ' Turn ye, turn ye ; why will ye die ? ' " John the Baptist testified of Christ that He was the ' Lamb of God which taketh away the sins of the world.' And the Lord himself said to his disciples ' If I be lifted up, I will draw all men unto me.' "My object in reciting these passages of Scripture is, to illustrate the great Scripture truth, that God will accept the returning peni- tent ; and that, while the day of salvation lasts, we are encouraged to come unto Him that ' willeth not the death of a sinner, but that all should turn to Him and live. 3 "But let not this forbearance and long-suf- fering of God be perverted to our own ruin. / Now is the accepted time, now is the day of salvation.' ' This sermon was not only preached in Pit- cairn's Island, but also in London. On Sunday morning, Nov. 28th 7 1852, the Pastor of Pitcairn SEItMON PKEACHED BY MR. NOBBS. 337 delivered the same discourse in the parish church of St. Dunstan-in-the-East, City, and added the following passages : " And now, my brethren, will you bear with me for a few moments, whilst I refer to circum- stances which have come in a great measure under my own immediate notice, in the com- munity over which I have for nearly twenty- five years been the unworthy pastor ? " Many years ago,, an officer and some seamen belonging to the British navy, after committing an unjustifiable act that of mutiny fled for safety to Pitcairn, an isolated rock in the South Pacific Ocean, taking with them some Otaheitan men and women. Within ten years, all the men, with the exception of two, came to an untimely end; one of these two died of con- sumption ; and the last of this party of mutineers was left on the island with five or six heathen \vomen, and twenty fatherless children. After some time this man, John Adams by name, became seriously impressed with the responsi- bility of the situation in which he was p laced. Here were a number of young persons between the ages of five and fifteen years, growing up in ignorance of the God who made them. And they would, humanly speaking, in a few years have become confirmed idolaters, from the example of their heathen mothers. " These considerations weighed heavily on Adams's mind ; and it was then that he had two alarming dreams, which so affected him, that he could scarcely eat or sleep for some time, 338 SERMON PEEACHED BY MK. NOBBS. when he bethought himself of the Bible, brought on shore from the Bounty, which had been much used by Christian, and also by Young in his last illness. After some search he found it, and commenced reading it, imperfectly at first, for he had never been to school, but had taught himself what he did know from scraps of paper picked up by him, when a boy, in the streets of London. Being, however, a man of excellent natural abilities, he was soon enabled to read with facility both the Bible and the Book of Common Prayer ; a single Prayer-book also having happily been recovered from the Bounty. He commenced praying in secret three times a day ; nor did he pray in vain ; his mind became enlightened, he saw his guilt and danger; and he was almost tempted to despair of pardon. Still, as he persevered in reading the Bible, he gradually became acquainted with the Gospel method of salvation ; and, by the guidance of the Holy Spirit, was enabled to come to Him who is mighty to save. In short, my brethren, he was brought to Jesus. " Now, mark the result. From this time he commenced instructing the children of the muti- neers, first by reading to them portions of the Scriptures, and subsequently teaching them to read for themselves; and so anxious were the young people to learn, that on one occasion two of the lads, who were employed by Adams to make a mattock of iron from the wreck of the Bounty, instead of accepting the promised com- pensation, (a quantity of gunpowder,) told Adams, they would rather he should give them SERMON PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS. 339 some extra lessons from God's Book, a name by which they used to designate the Bible. And now peace and contentment pervaded this rock of the West. The young men and women entered into the social relations of husband and wife; and they, in turn, depending on that most precious promise of their all-sufficient Saviour, ' Where two or three are gathered together in my name, there am I in the midst of them/ instructed their children with that knowledge which is better than riches. They brought them to Jesus. " The population of this settlement now amounts to 170 persons, who are living without any dissensions, and with but one form of Church Dvernment that of the Church of England, he Holy Bible, and the Church Prayer-book, are their chief rules of guidance ; their motto, 'One Faith, one Lord, one Baptism.' And when I, their pastor, took a sorrowful leave of them, about three months since, they were strong in faith, giving glory to God. That they, and all who hear me this day, may be included in that most precious invitation, ' Come, ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom pre- pared for you from the foundation of the world,' may God of his infinite mercy grant, for Jesus Christ's sake. Amen." The same sermon was preached by Mr. ISTobbs in St. Mary's Chapel, Park-street, Grosvenor- square, on Sunday morning, December 12th, 1852, and was printed at the request of several members of the congregation. 340 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. On the occasion of a wedding sermon, preached by Mr. Nobbs, in Pitcairn Church, four young persons having, on the same morning, entered into the holy estate of matrimony, he took his text from Eph. v. 22, &c. : " Wives, submit yourselves unto your own husbands, as unto the Lord. For the husband is the head of the wife, even as Christ is the head of the Church : and He is the Saviour of the body. Therefore as the Church is subject unto Christ, so let the wives be to their own husbands in everything. Hus- bands, love your wives, even as Christ also loved the Church, and gave himself for it." After speaking of the holy influence of the Christian religion, in restoring women to their proper place in society, he described the igno- miny with which females are treated, not only among the natives of the islands of the Southern Pacific, but among the Hindoos, and Moham- medans, and the inhabitants of other countries, especially in the East, in which a false religion and absurd superstitions prevail. To this evil principle he attributed the custom, so long pre- valent in India, of sacrificing widows at the funerals of their husbands, and wickedly de- stroying numbers of female infants. " I am sure, my female friends, your hearts are ready to sink within you at the recital of such horrible atrocities; but it is the truth. Nay, I need only refer you to the account of the land from whence your mothers and grandmothers came. You have heard them declare how the women were degraded in their country, being SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 341 looked upon as inferior creatures, and how often female infants were put to death. So true is it tli at the dark places of the earth are full of cruelty, But where the Christian religion ob- tains, there woman rises to her proper station the friend of man. Nor are her expectations of happiness confined to this life. She is informed in the Scriptures, that she has an immortal soul, which Christ died to redeem, and that after death she will be eternally happy or miserable, as she employs the talent here committed to her care. She will understand, also, that, as the Church of which she is a member is required to be obedient to the commands of Christ, its Head, so must she also be obedient unto her husband, and for the same reason. Christ is the Head of the Church, and the man is the head of the woman. " How thankful ought every woman present to be when she reflects on the wonderful good- ness of God in preserving the life of the late Mr. John Adams, until a knowledge of the Christian religion was extant among you ! Had he been cut off when ye were in your child- hood, in all probability your husbands would be bowing to a stock or a stone, and ye, instead of uniting in the worship of the true God, would not indeed have been permitted to enter the temple of idols, but would have remained all your lives the slaves of sensuality and caprice ; despised by your tyrannical masters, scorned by your own children, deserted in your sick- ness, and without hope, and without God in the world. 342 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. " Bless God, then, for Jesus Christ, my female friends. Serve Him with sincerity of heart, and remember it is He that commands you to submit yourselves unto your husbands as unto Himself. " Men and brethren, To you I next address my discourse. On you chiefly depends the hap- piness of your families. Remember, when you entered the married state, you promised to love and honour your wives. See, then, that you are true to your engagements. Let Christ's love to his Church be an example for you to copy. To each I would say, Love your wife with a pure heart, fervently. Never speak disrespectfully of her to other people. Never call her ill names ; neither be fond of showing that you are master before other people. This makes a woman feel her inferiority, and lowers her in the opinion of many. Avoid all occasion of controversy in public. If you differ in opinion, argue the matter over by yourselves, and you will come to a rational conclusion sooner than in com- pany. See that your children pay a proper respect to their mother. Set them a good ex- ample yourself, and they will be easily taught to follow it. Children are imitative beings; and if they observe one parent indulge in sar- casms, or improper expressions at the expense of the other, they will be sure to do so too. Many children have been taught to despise their mother from improper appellations bestowed upon her by their other parent. If your wife wishes to send the children to any place, never countermand her orders without good reason: SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 343 and then tell her why you do so. Whenever your wife sees fit to chastise any of the children, do not interfere in their behalf. By so doing, you teach them to set her authority at nought. But time would fail me, were I to attempt giving directions in every particular relative to the proper conduct of married persons towards each other, and towards their children. The Word of God abounds with instructions as to our mutual duties ; I shall therefore conclude with this piece of advice : " i Husbands, love your wives, and be not bitter against them.' ' Live with them according to knowledge, for no man ever yet hated his own flesh ; but nourisheth and cherisheth it, even as the Lord the Church.' ' Rejoice with the wife of thy youth, and be thou always satis- fied with her love: for she is thy companion, and the wife of thy covenant.' c Go not after a stranger; and let none deal treacherously against the wife of thy youth.' " ' Wives, be in subjection to your own hus- bands; that, if any obey not the word, they also may without the word be won by the con- versation of the wives ; while they behold your chaste conversation coupled with fear.' ' For after this manner in the old time the holy women, who trusted in God, were in subjection to their own husbands : even as Sarah obeyed Abraham, calling him lord; whose daughters ye are, as long as ye do well.'. " And for your comfort and commendation, and to induce in you a deportment in conformity with the will of God, remember it is expressly 344 SERMON PREACHED OX THE ISLAND. said, < A prudent wife is from the Lord. The heart of her husband doth safely trust in her ; she will do him good and not evil all the days of her life. She openeth her mouth with wisdom ; and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed ; her husband also, and he praiseth her.' " Husbands and wives, excite each other in the path of duty. Form the holy resolution, that you and your house will serve the Lord ; and having made this resolution, persevere in it till death. Be diligent in reading the Word of God, and causing it to be read in your families. ' Search the Scriptures, for in them ye think ye have eternal life,' is a precept of our blessed Lord ; and parents are in a peculiar manner bound to instruct their children in the knowledge of the Word of God. Family prayer is a duty as absolutely necessary as reading the Word of God ; for prayer is an excellent means to render reading effectual. We read that our blessed Lord, when He dwelt on earth, promised a peculiar blessing to joint supplications : ' Where- soever two or three are gathered together in my name, there am I in the midst of them.' And to this, that we are commanded by the Apostle to c pray always with all manner of supplication,' which, doubtless, includes family prayer. " Remember, the time will come, and that, perhaps, very shortly, when we must all appear before the judgment-seat of Christ, where we must give a solemn and strict account how SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 345 we have had our conversation in our respective families in this world. How will you endure to see your children, who ought to be your joy and crown of rejoicing in the day of our Lord Jesus, coming out as so many swift witnesses against you ! consider this, all ye that forget to serve the Lord with your respective house- holds, lest He pluck you away, and there be none to deliver you ! " Do, I beseech you, seriously reflect on what has been said this morning. It is the last day of the year ; and who may be permitted to see the close of the approaching year, God only knows. Do but seriously and frequently reflect on, and act as persons that believe, such impor- tant truths, and you will not neglect either your own spiritual welfare, or your family's. And though, after all your pious endeavours, some may continue unreformed, yet you will have this comfortable reflection that you did what you could to make your families religious, and therefore may rest assured of sitting down with Abraham, Isaac, Cornelius, Hannah, Lydia, Mary, and Dorcas, and all the godly families, who, in their several generations, shone forth as so many lights in their respective households upon earth. Now the Lord Jesus Christ, who is God over all, blessed for ever, assist and watch over you, and keep you from all evil and sin here, and present .you before his Father faultless at the great day of account. " To God the Father, the Lord Jesus Christ, and the blessed Spirit, three Persons, and one eternal God, be ascribed, &c. Amen." 346 THE HARP OF PITCA1RX. The Chaplain of Pitcairn has not only the power of expressing himself well and clearly in prose: he also possesses the happy art of framing his thoughts in verse. This talent he has often exerted, on subjects of national and religious interest, at the wish of members of the Pitcairn community. As a suitable conclusion of this chapter, a few poems from the Pastor's pen are inserted by his permission. These being considered as simple strains of the HARP OF PITCAIRN, will not be subjected to severe criticism. On the contrary, the piety, loyalty, and evident desire for the happiness of others, which are manifested in the following stanzas, will commend them to the candid Christian reader. They may even tend, as an addition to the specimens of Mr. Nobbs's sermons and letters, to excite a feeling of thankfulness, that, in the course of God's providence, such a man should have been called to such a post, at the very time that a teacher and friend was most urgently needed by the islanders. EVENING HYMN. 1. FATHER, let our supplications Find acceptance in thy sight ; Free from Satan's foul temptations, From the perils of the night, Oh, preserve us, Till return of morning light. THE HARP OF PITCAIRN. 347 Jesus, friend of dying sinners, Ere we close our eyes m sleep, Let the hope that dwells within us Prove thou dost thy people keep ; Gracious Shepherd ! From the wolf defend thy sheep. 3. Holy Ghost, be ever near us, Make our hearts thy blest abode ; Strengthen, purify, and cheer us. Raise our waking thoughts to God ; With sweet visions Gild the hours on sleep bestow'd. 4-. Father, Son, and Holy Spirit, Us into thy keeping take ; Not for our deserts or merit, Solely for thy mercy's sake, Oh, protect us, When we sleep and when we wake. HYMN. 1. 'I WILL not encumber my verse With metaphor, figure, or trope ; Nor will I the praises rehearse Of aught in creation's wide scope ; v My Bible shall furnish the theme, My subject will angels applaud, My soul shall rejoice in his name, My Brother, iny Saviour, my God. 348 THE HARP OF PITCAIIiN. 2. My Brother! how grateful that sound When sorrow preys deep on the heart ; When malice and discord abound, What balm can a. brother impart ! A tender, unchangeable friend, On whose bosom 'tis sweet to recline, Ever prompt to assist or defend ; Such a Friend, such a Brother is mine. 3, My Saviour! Thrice-glorious name! But who of the children of men The wondrous appointment may claim ? Or who can the title sustain ? Immanuel, Jesus, alone Doth fulness and fitness combine, He only for sin can atone, And He is my Saviour, e'eii mine. 4. My God ! what a mystery is this ; Jehovah appears as a man ! Truth, wisdom, grace, mercy, and peace, Devised the inscrutable plan ; He came to redeem us from hell, He died to effect his design, He reigns where the glorified dwell, And he is my God, ever mine. 5. Then what upon earth need I fear ? My Brother partakes my distress, My Saviour attends to my prayer, My God deigns to pardon and bless. Through life as I journey along, Sustained by thy staff and thy rod, Thy love shall give life to my song, My Brother, my Saviour, my God. Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean, Lat.25i', Long. 130 8'. THE HARP OF PITCAI11N. 349 THE ANGELS' LAMENT. CONTRASTED WITH LUKE xv. 10. 1. ENSLAVED by sin, in league with hell, Prompt to obey, should Satan call, Thine own deceivings please thee well ; Opprest, yet held in willing thrall : The gall of bitterness is thine, Still dost thou not thy state discern ; Though more degraded than the swine, rf Thou wilt not to thy home return. 2. The crown is fallen from thy head, The gold of Ophir, oh, how dim ! Burning appears in beauty's stead. And all thy garb in wretched trim. Alas, alas ! how art thou changed, Yet angels thy rebellion mourn; Though from thy Saviour-God estranged, He still invites thee to return. 3. What is thy hope ? What canst thou find To equal thy Redeemer's love ? Riches are fleeting as the wind, And pride and lust will adders prove. Oh stay, oh stay thy mad career, Ere to destruction thou art borne ; Infatuated sinner, hear; Deluded wanderer, return. 4. Recal to mind those precious hours When in the truth thy footsteps trod ; When heart, and mind, and all thy powers Were dedicated to thy God. Sweet, sweet it was to hear thee then, In grateful strains to heaven upborne \ And shall they not ascend again ? * O prodigal, return, return 1 350 THE HARP OF PITCA1EN. 5. High on presumption's tottering mast, Held by a thread in reckless sleep, Thou fear'st not, though th' approaching blast May whirl thee headlong to the deep. Awake, awake, no longer dare The vengeance thou affect' st to scorn, Lest thy enraged Creator swear, " Thou never, never shalt i 6. Canst thou 'midst endless burnings dwell ? Or with eternal fire abide ? That thou wouldst madly doom to hell The soul for which Immanuel died. Arise, arise, repent, believe, The Spirit's call no longer spurn ; Thy Saviour will the welcome give, And angels joy at thy return. This hymn was composed at the request of several of our little community, who wished to have one of their own, which they might sing to the pathetic air of " Bonny Doon." G. H. N. I BELIEVE, I BELIEVE. " How are you to-day, Polly? " said I to the wife of George Adams, who had long been grievously afflicted with a cancer in her breast, and was rapidly approaching the grave. " I shall soon be at home, sir" she said.^ " On whom is your hope placed at this time ?' I asked. " On the blessed Saviour who died for me, and has redeemed meS' And then she went on to declare her faith and THE HARP OF PITCAIRN 351 hope, of which the accompanying verses are the substance. You ask how I feel in the prospect of death, And whether the grave has no terrors for me ? If brig-lit are my hopes, and unshaken my faith, And to whom for relief in my sufferings I flee ? The questions are weighty, and I am so weak, Yet will I endeavour an answer to give ; And this is the substance of what I would speak* I believe, I believe. On the brink of the grave it has pleased my Lord To keep me long waiting the word to depart ; And though for dismission I oft have implored, let He has forgiven the thought of my heart. Though often impatient and prone to complain, Much love in this chastening 1 plainly perceive. Our Father afflicts not his children in vain: 1 believe, 1 believe. This body so wasted by ling'ring disease, That scarce to the worms it can furnish a meal, Insatiate death as a trophy may seize, And in me the sad fruits of transgression reveal : But must I for ever continue his prey ? No, Jesus my dust from his grasp shall retrieve ; The call to arise "I shall gladly obey: I believe, I believe, I know, on this earth my Redeemer shall stand, And these eyes, though now dim, shall his glories behold ; My powers so reduced shall with knowledge expand, And this heart throb with rapture, which now beats so cold : His voice I shall hear, and in accents divine, ShaU I, then made worthy, a welcome receive; In his presence to dwell 'twill for ever be mine : I believe, I believe. Z 352 THE HARP OF PITCAIRN. This then is my hope ; and I am not deceived, On the word of my God I can fully depend: v 1 know by the Spirit, on whom I've believed, That fle will support and console to the end ; Immanuel's death hath Jehovah appeased ; That death on the cross did my ransom achieve ; That death is my passport when I am. released : I believe, 1 believe ; yes, I firmly believe. POLLY, the wife of GEORGE ADAMS, departed this life December 17th, 1843, aged 48 years. I have merely verified part of the foregoing conversation. It is in sum and substance a reply to an inquiry made by me concerning her state of mind in the prospect of death, which was then rapidly approaching* Assuredly, her end was peace. GEORGE H. NOBBS, Pastor and Schoolmaster. FENUA MAITAL AMONGST the original poems composed on the island, is a singularly wild effusion, described as having been " sung on the sixtieth anniversary of the foundation of the colony/' In this poem reference is made to local names and circum- stances, conveyed partly in Otaheitan forms of thought and language, such as can be thoroughly understood only by the islanders themselves. " Feniia Maitai," with which each stanza con- cludes, are Otaheitan words, and mean, THE GOOD LAND. THE HARP OF PITCATRN. 353 > 1. PITCAIRN, I love tliee, though, lone 'midst the ocean, Thou standest exposed to the tempest and storm, Though thy shore, ever white with the surf's rude corn- motion, Rugged lava and wide-yawning chasms deform ; Yet oft, Amongst those chasms, with joy have I rambled, In the "Pools" down " the Rocks,"' and down "Isaac," have gambol? d, Or have join'd my companions, by moonlight assembled, To sing forth thy praises, FENUA MAITAI ! 2. Though discord and strife mark'd the dawn of existence, Nor yet were the days of our children more bright, And, but for the efforts of female assistance, The black man had surely o'erpowered the white. But why harrow up recollections of sorrow ? From the past for the future a lesson we'll take ; And draw a close veil o'er those dread scenes of horror, When blood stain'd thy valleys, FENDA MAITAI ! 3. To happier moments now memory turning, When Youth, Hope, and Love gave to Fancy full scope, I have climb'd the rude cliffs at the first break of morning, To see the sun rise from " the ridge of the Rope : " Or down " T'other side," with his last ray ascending, Over mountain and valley, in one glory blending, My rapturous gaze o'er the prospect extending, I have fancied thee " Eden," FENUA MAITAI ! ^ 4. By torch-light the haunts of the white bird exploring, Perch'd high on the " big tree's " aerial bridge, How quick beat each heart, as the death-wail came soaring, From the ghost that still lingers on " Talaloo's ridge !"* ' V- 9 ' Talaloo, an Otaheitan, who landed with the mutineers on the island, was barbarously murdered by his wife, and one of his countrymen, Menalee. Menalee, who is mentioned in the next stanza, was in his turn put to death by two of the mutineers. z 2 354 THE HARP OF PITCAIRN. Or with arrow aud grains, on the calm nights of summer, When the "Davy " recedes from the shores ot Tahtama, The tribes of the ocean, allured by the lamma, Are the meed of thy children, FENUA MAITAI ! 5, " Ship-landing ""St. Paul's"" Water-drop " " Vai- bebea's " " Eteaa " " Arlehow " " Menalee's-stone " " Alah," where the lore of the Indian appears, Memento of hordes, long extinct and unknown ; Prom the heights of " Look-out," where the wild goats are bounding, To the coralline groves where the tf Toaw " is sounding, Sweet Rosebud of Ocean, FENDA MAITAI ! 6. Our sires to their mem'ry this day is devoted; Our friends may they prosper in every land ; Ourselves may our blessings be gratefully noted, Our errors deplored, and Religion expand ! May the flag of old England for ages wave o'er us ! Be Victoria our Queen ! May our Queen be victorious* And this Rock of the West oft resound with the chorus. " Pitarnia hinaaro, FENDA MAITAI !" NATIONAL SONG. A ir " ROUSSEAU'S DREAM." 1. MID the mightv Southern Ocean Stands an isolated rock, Whiten'd by the surf's commotion, Riven by" the lightning's shock, 2. Hark ! those strains to heaven ascending, From yon slopes of vivid green ; Old and young their voices Blending, God preserve Britannia's Queen ! THE HARP OF PITCAIRN- 3. Ha ! that flash yon grove illuming,. Long impervious to the sun ; Now the quick report comes booming From the ocean-rescued gun. 4. List ! the bell is gaily ringing, Where a white-robed * train is seen / Now they all unite in singing God preserve our gracious Queen ! SONG OE THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS, ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTHDAY OF QUEEN VICTORIA. 1. THE Queen ! the Queen ! our gracious Queen ! Come raise on high your voices, And let it by your smiles be seen, That every heart rejoices. Her natal day we'll celebrate With ardour and devotion, And Britain's festal emulate In the Pacific Ocean, Now let old England's flag be spread, That flag long famed in story ; And, as it waves above our head, We'll think upon its glory. Then fire the gun, the Bounty's gun, And set the bell a-ringing, And then, with hearts and voices one, We'll all unite in singing : In allusion to the Tappa-cloth dresses. 356 THE HARP OF PITCAIRN. 3, The Queen ! the Queen ! God bless the Queen ! And all her royal kindred ; Prolong' d and happy be her reign, By faction never hindered. May high and4ow, the rich and poor, The happy or distressed, O'er her wide realm, from shore to shore, Arise and call her blessed. 4. Our friends, and oh ! they love us well, Unnumber'd favours say so ; Our hearts are with them where they dwell, And first in Valparaiso ; New Zealand, Sydney, Hobart Town, And those upon their journey, With many more already down In golden Californy. 5. We've pass'd o'er some whom we respect, Of varied name and nation, But not from coldness or neglect, Or want of inclination. God bless them- all, wherever seen, On ocean or on dry land. Now give three cheers for Britain's Queen, And three for Piteairn's Island. THE CORAL ISLES. 357 THE CORAL ISLES. 1. THE Coralline Isles in the deep blue sea At daybreak how beauteous to look upon ! As over the reef the surge rolls free, Like a circlet of pearls round an emerald stone. And giant forms of rocks and trees l Burst through the veil of mist and spume And oft the fitful fresh'ning breeze Comes redolent of rich perfume. 2 And the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird, Sweep over the track where the dolphin shines, 3 And the plaintive voice of the dove is heard In the evergreen groves of the Corallines. 2. The Coralline Isles in the troublous sea At noontide are awful to gaze upon ; When the tempest louring fearfully Environ the sea with a lurid zone. And the waterspout and the whirlwind urge Their devious way through sea and air, And the cachalots huge from the deep emerge, Attracted by the lightning's glare. 4 And the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird, ImpelTd by fear, disgorge their spoils, 5 And the curlew's piercing wail is heard And danger is rife round the Coral Isles. NOTES BY THE AUTHOR REV. Q. H. NOBBS. (1) A thin mist or haze greatly magnifies the appearance of rocks or trees ; this is especially the case among the low islands in the Pacific. (2) At early morning, the wind, when blowing from the land, brings with it a gush of pleasant odours. (3) These birds are constantly on the watch for the dolphin, whose presence is betrayed by his flashing scales ; and the agile birds pounce upon the flying fish, of which he is in chase. (4) A singular phenomenon sometimes attending these squalls is the sudden appearance of the spermaceti whales, beating the water furiously with their tails. (5) So alarmed do these birds become, either from the intense glare of the lightning, or the astounding crash of the thunder, that they eject from their gullets the fish they had swallowed 358 THE CORAL ISLES. 3. The Coralline Isles in the glittering sea At evening are glorious to muse upon, As Sol's last ray to lake and tree Imparts the hues of the topaz stone ; And the crested surge in triple row Bounds over the reel with deafening roar, And the vivid tints of the Covenant Bow With mosaic decks the blanched shore, And the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird Speed homeward, rang'd in length' ning files ; For the cry of their callow brood is heard From their grassy beds on the Coral Isles. 4. The Coralline Isles in the tremulous sea At midnight are lovely to look upon, As the moon from her zenith beams splendidly O'er the Parian strand, and the smooth lagoon. And he who adventures to sojourn there, Amid scenes so strange, so beautiful. Might fancy he breath' d enchanted air, 1 Where gnomes preside and genii rule. For the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird Seem petrified by magic wiles, And nought but the Tupa's click is heard, Whose myriads traverse the Coral Isles. 5. The Coralline realms in the deep blue sea Are wonderful to gaze upon, For the latent powers of Deity Are there in rich profusion shown ; Parterres that storms can ne'er disturb, Nor winter's frigid hand undress ; Pillars and pyramids superb, And vestibules of palaces. Oh, let the ingrate atheist come ; See and confess a power Divine ; And then refer the clique at home To the gorgeous fane of the Coralline. G. H. N. (1) " I remember/ says the author of the Coral Isles, " passing anight on one of these islands. I 'became so captivated with the lovely scene that sleep did not approach my eyelids the whole of that night." VESSELS WHICH HAVE TOUCHED AT PITCAIRN. 359 The vessels mentioned in this work, which have touched at Pitcairn's Island, between 1808 and 1856 inclusive, are as follow: VESSEL. CAPTAIN. DATE. PAGE Topaz . . . . . Polger - ...... 1808 103 H.M.S. Briton . / Sir T. Staines . . . 1814 127 H.M.S. Tagus . . Pipon ...... 1814 127 Sultan . . . . . Reynolds ..... 1817 260 Hercules .... Henderson . . . . 1819 122 H.M.S. Blossom . . : Beechey . . . . . 1825 135 Lovely . . .'".'. Blythe . . . . . .' 1826 261 H.M.S. Seringapatam Waldegrave . . . . 1830 139 Lucy Anne ... J. Currey . . . .' . 1831 141 Bordeaux Packet . - . . .= . . 1831 262 H.M.S. Comet . . Sandilands ..... 1831 141 H.M S. Challenger . Fremantle ..... 1833 145 H.M.S. ActEeon . . Lord E. B-ussell . . . 1837 179 H.M.S Imogene . , H.W.Bruce. . , . 1837 179 H.M.S. Fly ... E. Elliott ..... 1838 262 H.M.S. Sparrowhawk Shepherd ..... 1839 262 H.M.S. Curayoa . . Jenkin Jones . . . . 1841 160 Cyrus ..... J. Hall. ..... 1823 202 America .... ...... 1843 263 H.M.S. Talbot . . Sir T. Thompson, Bart. 1843 263 H.M.S. Basilisk . ." H. Hunt ..... 1844 263 266 H.M.S. Pandora . . T. Wood ..... 1849 156 H.M.S. Daphne . , Fanshawe . . . . . 1849 268 Fanny ..... Leathart ..... 1849 151 Noble I-..-"... Parker . ..... 1850 167 Colonist . , . . . Marshall ..... 1850 168 I.M.S. Cockatrice . Dillon . , , . . . 1851 191 360 SIGNALS FOR LANDING. VESSEL. CAPTAIN. DATE. PAGE Joseph Meigs . , . . . 1851 273 Sharon 18^1 9*71 Balaena 18 ^9! 971 H.M.S. Daedalus . . Wellesley 1852 975 H.M.S. Portland 1 8 Vice-Ad.Moresby, K.C.B. 1 8 5-2 205 53 228 Adeline Gibbs Weeks 1859 97 H.M.S. Virago . . Prevost. ..... 18 53 107 149 H.M.S. Dido . . . Morshead. . j 3833 18 (1856 323 H.M.S. Juno . . . Fremantle .... 1855 317 Amphitrite . . . . . 1855 322 Matthew Luce . . Coon ...... '1855 322 Southern Cross . . M c Arthur 1855 392 Morayshire Mathers 1856 381 Upwards of 350 vessels have touched at Pitcairn between 1808, and the memorable year 1856, the year of the people's departure. The following Signals were established by Admiral Moresby, and agreed upon in 1853 : A PLAIN WHITE FLAG will be hoisted when it is possible to communicate from Bounty Bay. A PLAIN WHITE FLAG OVER A BED ENSIGN, OT over any other flag, will ~be hoisted, when it is impossible to communicate from Bounty Bay. , A RED ENSIGN, or any other flag over a plain white flag, will be hoisted when it is impossible to communicate from Bounty Bay, but possible from the lee-side of the Island.- PITCAIRN A WILDERNESS. 361 Thus far of Pitcairn. In preparing the eleventh edition of this book, the author observed, that of Pitcairn' s Island the reader might then take leave ; one of the fairest spots in the world having become a wilderness, and left in sole possession of a few head of cattle, " Whose right there was none to dispute." The view of Pitcairn appeared to have dissolved, and passed away; and it was added, with reference to the settlement of the people on Norfolk Island, 66 The remaining portions of our history will give further intelligence of the community, and unfold the new and strange, but not unpleasing scenes, which have opened before them." Strange to say, however, more will yet remain to be said of Pitcairn, as a place for the residence of human beings; two families, consisting, in the whole, of sixteen persons, having sailed thither, from Norfolk Island, in December, 1858, with the object of re-inhabiting their old home. The reader's attention is now called to a short notice of the original settlement, and present condition of Norfolk Island. CHAPTER XIII. DEPARTURE OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY FROM PITCAIRN TO NORFOLK ISLAND NORFOLK ISLAND; ITS ORIGINAL SETTLEMENT, AND SUBSEQUENT OCCUPATION VISIT OP BISHOP BROUGHTON CAPTAIN DENHAM's DESPATCH LETTERS FROM ARTHUR QUINTAL AND REV. G. H. NOBBS SIR WM. DENISON'S COMMUNICATION EXPENSE OF REMOVAL ACCOUNTS FROM HOBART TOWN. EARLY in the year 1857 the friends of the Pitcairn community received intelligence of the change which had taken place in the circum- stances of the islanders. Silence and solitude had resumed their reign at Pitcairn. The Chap- lain and his wife had paid their last visit to the grave of their beloved Keuben. The in- habitants, from the oldest man and woman, down to the infant of a few months, had quitted the memorable spot, as it seemed, for ever, and embarked in the Moray sliire on their perilous voyage of between three and four thousand miles. Nay, more, they had arrived at the beautiful and fertile island, generously bestowed upon them by the kindness and consideration of Her Majesty's Government. Norfolk Island, lying in the Southern Pacific, GOVERNORS PHILLIP AND KING, 363 In latitude 29 3' 45" South, and longitude 167 58' 6" East from London, was discovered, by Captain Cook, October 10, 1774, and named by him from the noble family which bears the title of Norfolk. It is about 600 miles from New Zealand, and about 900 from Sydney. It appears to have been formed by the eruption of volcanic matter from the bed of the sea ; and is estimated to contain about 10,000 acres. It was not until nearly fourteen years after the discovery of Norfolk Island that steps were taken by the Government for the occupation of the place, which had remained entirely unin- habited. On the 14th February, 1788, a few settlers, consisting of a small number of marines and convicts, and two agricultural labourers, were sent thither by Governor Phillip, under the command of Lieutenant P. G. King. By the year 1790, a great increase had taken place in the number of convicts, and there were then upwards of 500 persons on the island. In September, 1800, Lieutenant King became Governor of New South Wales, on the retire- ment of Captain Hunter, who had been Governor for five years. Not long after quitting Norfolk Island, Governor King recommended its entire abandonment. Many hundreds of acres of land had at that time been brought into cultivation; and several costly buildings,, belonging both to Government and private in- dividuals, had been erected. There was a population of a thousand souls ; and the quan- tity of cattle, pigs, poultry, and goats was abundant. 364 GOVERNORS BLIGH AND BRISBANE. The execution of the task which had been recommended by King, and which entailed an amazing sacrifice of property, devolved upon one whose name has often been men- tioned in this work, especially in its earlier pages. Captain Bligh of the Bounty had been appointed Governor of New South Wales in 1805 ; and in December, 1806, William Wind- ham, Esq., then Secretary of State for the Colonies, despatched to Governor Bligh direc- tions for the entire evacuation of Norfolk Island. I The reasons alleged for this measure were the vast expense of maintaining the settlement , the difficulty of keeping up a communication between it and Port Jackson ; the danger attending an approach to an island without a port secure from tempests, and even without a road in which ships could safely anchor. Many of the con- victs were removed, against their own wishes, to Port Dalrymple, and other places in Van Diemen's Land ; but the entire removal of pri- soners did not take place until the year 1807. ) About eighteen years after this, another change came over the destiny of Norfolk Island. In 1825, during the government of Sir Thomas Brisbane, the island was again constituted a penal settlement; and, in June the same year, it was occupied by Captain Turton, with fifty sol- diers, and about the same number of prisoners. For several subsequent years the horrors of the place, owing to the frightfully vicious condi- tion of the convicts, became proverbial. In 1839, there were upwards of seven hundred prisoners. BISHOP BKOUGHTON'S VISIT. 365 The services of the late excellent Dr. Brough- ton, Bishop of Sydney, and the regard which he felt for the Pitcairn community, have been noticed in the Ninth Chapter of this book. It is an interesting fact in the history of his life, that Norfolk Island, when a very dif- ferent race from its present occupants inhabited the place, was visited by the Bishop ; and that some of the then dwellers in that dreary abode of wrath and punishment were the special ob- jects of his pastoral care. An affecting letter, dated Mulgoa, New South Wales, 17th June, 1839, addressed to the Secretary of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, was read by the author to the Board seventeen years ago : " I am anxious to have an opportunity of stating the satisfaction and thankfulness which I experienced, during a visit, in the month of January last, to the penal settlement of Norfolk Island, to find in that dreary abode of wrath and punishment, a striking practical testimony afforded to the value of the Society's exertions. Even among the outcast offenders who inhabit that insulated spot, your Bibles, and Prayer- books, and Manuals of Devotion, are among the chief sources of comfort enjoyed by the otherwise all but hopeless prisoner. " I never before had so strongly conveyed to my mind a sense of the diffusiveness of that bene- volence which you, my dear Sir, on behalf of the venerable Society, are so actively engaged in extending, as when I beheld the eagerness with which those books are sought, and the thankful- ness with which they are received among more 366 BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND'S VISIT,' ' than 700 criminals, who are there under the spiritual charge of the Rev. Thomas Sharpe. So extensive, indeed, have been the fruits of his attention, that, under the Divine blessing, and with thankfulness to the Society which has so aided his exertions, I may express a confident expectation of many hardened men receiving the light of the truth, and being re- covered to a reverence for it, to which, during the previous portion of their lives, they had been practically strangers. " So far as it is granted me to judge of the sincerity of man's intentions, I felt so confident as to a considerable number presented and re- commended to me by Mr. Sharpe, that, at their humble and earnest desire, I admitted them to the rite of Confirmation, the nature and design of which had been, carefully explained to them. And I afterwards received such of them as were desirous to attend, at the administration of the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper." The Bishop of New Zealand, before his last visit to England, touched at Norfolk Island, and was much struck with the beauty of the place, and its fine climate. The contrast of the ex- ternal features of nature with the spirit of the human population was powerfully portrayed by him ; and he drew a lively comparison of what the island was with what it might be, ci It was designated," said one who lived there nearly four years, " 4 the Ocean Hell/ I doubt not, but eventually the presence of the Pitcairn people will render it what nature intended it to be, an earthly paradise." These words were used CAPTAIN DENHAM, R.N. 367 before the project had been matured for convey- ing this fine estate to the people of Pitcairn. The reader who has accompanied the Pitcairn community in the striking annals of their race, as well as in the even progress of their own lives and fortunes, will rejoice with them on their safe landing at a new and suitable abode. He will be enabled to discover, in the present stage of their history, the footsteps of a gracious and superintending Providence, and will share in the thankful and happy feelings of those who have been in any way concerned in this remark- able event He will observe with pleasure the Christian behaviour of the voyagers in their strange and somewhat startling position. What can be more touching, or (considering what Captain Denham calls "the habitual piety" of the new settlers) what more natural, than their prompt and united act of Thanksgiving to their Divine Preserver and Guide ? The Islanders owe a debt of gratitude to many distinguished naval officers, who, by pro- fessional zeal and intelligence, as well as by various friendly offices in behalf of the people, have contributed largely to their welfare, A recent communication made by Captain H. M. Denham, R.N., who had the charge of the survey of Norfolk Island, will speak volumes, both as to his attention to the people, and their settled sense of duty. The paper, which is also in- teresting in a geographical point of view, was dated on board H.M.S. Herald, Norfolk Island, June 16, 1856. Proceeding towards Norfolk Island, he had taken advantage of a calm A A 368 SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND. afternoon on the 30th May ; and when 1 62 miles N. 65 30' E. from Lord Howe Island, and 322 miles S. 75 30' W. from Norfolk Island, had struck soundings in 919 fathoms. Whilst obtaining these soundings, he was assailed by a westerly gale, which, lasting for eight-and-forty hours, was at its height on Sunday, June 1st ; and it became imprudent, to let the ship run, until the gale broke. On the morning of the 3d June, having arranged with Lieut. John Hutchison and Mr. J. W. Smith, assistant surveyors, in regard to completing the survey of the island and its islets, together with lines of soundings to the edge of the bank upon its surrounding aspects, he effected a landing. He landed, the Sappers, whom, at the instance of the Governor-General, Sir Wm. Denison, he had brought from Sydney, to make a topographical survey of Norfolk Island, with reference to the future allotting and occupation of the island by the Pitcairners. He also landed the Herald's carpenters, to cut down and trim pine-trees out of the abundant plantations of the remarkable Norfolk Island pine, in order to profit by so economical an op- portunity of providing Her Majesty's ship with a set of spare topmasts ; a selection of boat- knees and frame timber was also made, and the commissary officer Mr. Stewart, in charge of the island, promptly caused the ship to be supplied with fresh beef, in accordance with Sir William Denison's considerate views, which enabled Captain Denham to render it a gratuitous issue to the wliole of the crew. ARRIVAL OF THE COMMUNITY. 369 Captain Denham had now daily reason to ex- pect the arrival of the Moray shire with the Pit- cairn community on board. " And," he added, " as the presence of one of Her Majesty's ships at the new home of that interesting people would doubtless cheer them, as well as afford them essential aid in landing and organizing, on the one hand, whilst, as simultaneously as possible, clearing the island of its residue as a penal settle- ment, I became solicitous of being on the spot. I therefore had only to hope that the transport would arrive before my primary object in taking Norfolk Island en route to the Polynesian Islands could be accomplished. Fortunately, on Sunday the 8th instant, although a gloomy and rather boisterous day, with considerable surf, the Moray shire not only closed with the island, but, being joined by the Herald, and assisted by a tracing of our survey, she took up a favourable position for disembar- cation ; . and by sunset the Pitcairn community, numbering 194 persons, were comfortably housed, as well as landed, without accident. I was invited to their first evening Church service at their new home, when a special thanksgiving was rendered unto God for the preservation vouchsafed, and His guidance implored in the new era they had just entered upon. It was an exemplary manifestation of habitual piety that woiild not allow fatigue, amounting with many to almost exhaustion, nor that excitement in the robust at the extreme novelty of matters around them, to interfere with their wonted primary duty in life. On the contrary, these artless, sel- A A 2 370 MATHERS AND GHEGORIE. denying people seemed to gather physical com- fort and energy as they responded to our ^ beautiful Church service, rendered the more touchingly so by their admirable chanting. And they listened patiently and devoutly to the well -adapted exhortation of their revered pastor and counsellor, the Rev. George Hunu Nobbs. This gentleman could not rest until he had expressed to me the pervading gratitude which the arrangement for the transit and reception of his flock had excited." Captain Denham then adverted to the admi- rable manner in which acting Lieut. Gregorie managed their embarcation, so that every mov- able article, " even to the Gun and Anvil of the .Bounty" had been transferred. He described the friendly zeal with which Captain Mathers, the master of the transport, followed out his under- taking on a five weeks' passage; the tender treatment of alarming cases of sea-sickness, which ceased not from inland to island ; the birth which took place during the voyage ; and finally, the joyful sight of one of the Queen's ships, in whose boats the people were landed. Captain Denham, with the commissariat officer, greeted them individually, as they* set foot on shore, and conducted them to their comfortable quarters, on Norfolk Island. " The following week," said he, " was success- fully employed in landing all the seventy years' gathering of chattels belonging to the Pitcairners, notwithstanding the precarious sea-board of this island causing the ships to put to sea every night. They could, therefore, duly observe MACDONALD AND WILSON, 371 yesterday's Sabbath in the first fitted-up church they had seen. In this the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper was most impressively adminis- tered to us, together with every adult of the new congregation a privilege I can never for- get. This Sabbath was marked by another solemnity, our attendance upon which assuaged the general depression which their first mourn- ing visit to the cemetery was calculated to inflict ; it being their custom for the whole of the com- munity to attend each funeral. In the present case, it was to inter a female infant, who had been embarked in a most delicate state, but had survived the voyage, though beyond medical relief when placed under the care of one of my medical officers, Mr. Denis Macdonald. ft " Mr. Macdonald has, with his characteristic kindness, attended to some cases of illness con- sequent on so great a change of life, and has instructed the islanders essentially in the re- sources of the ample dispensary for their use. Our artificers have imparted to these naturally apt people the uses of the variety of tools and implements, including the wind and water mills on the island. Indeed it has been a week of ini- tiation ; and amongst the novelties, the operation of the photograph, with which our zealous artist, Mr. Glen Wilson, has been taking likenesses to forward to England, has not failed to excite their attention, delight, and wonder.* * These likenesses consist of a group of the Rev. G. H. Nobbs, his wife, (daughter of Fletcher Christian of the Bounty,} and two daughters ; a group of Rebecca and Rachel Evans; and three sisters, Ellen Quintal, Mana Christian, and Sarah M'Coy e 372 POPULATION AND STOCK. " The first step for future provision has teen taken by planting their esteemed sweet potato. Pending harvest time, which they give six months to come about, I leave this community of 193 persons, comprising 40 men, 47 women, 54 boys, and 52 girls, provided with 45,500 Ibs. of biscuit, flour, maize, and rice, with groceries in proportion, and abundance of milk at their hand. Their live stock and fodder consists of 1,300 sheep, 430 cattle, 22 horses, 10 swine in sties, 16 domestic fowls, 16,000 Ibs. hay, 5,000 Ibs. straw, and a quantity of wild pigs and fowls. Lest, however, the first crop should be retarded or fall short, I have submitted a list of supplies which the Governor-General will for- ward to these islanders as an extent-in-aid." Every reader must be struck with the fore- thought and delicacy, as well as energy, shown in this transaction by all concerned in it. Reverting to Pitcairn's Island, Captain Den- ham added, that future voyagers might find fresh beef there, as some cattle had been left upon it. A few sheep, with several goats and fowls, were also left at Pitcairn. The pigs were destroyed, lest they should break through the fence, and disturb the graveyard. During the voyage from Pitcairn to Norfolk Island, one of the senior members of the com- munity, Arthur Quintal, wrote thus to his excel- lent friend Admiral Moresby : " At Sea," May 14th, 1856. " MY DEAR FRIEND, " You may easily guess, from the date of my letter, where I am bound to. I am on board an ARTHUR QUINTAL'S LETTER. 373 English emigrant ship, bound to Norfolk Island, with all the rest of my fellow-countrymen. We left our own dear little island on the 2d of May, and are now about half-way on our passage. We have had a fine run, with strong easterly winds, until the 9th, when the wind shifted ahead, and has continued baffling ever since. Our people mostly were dreadfully sick for the first three or four days ; but, by the blessing of God, they have nearly all recovered. Two or three are still very sick ; but as the weather is fine, I think, in a day or two, they will quite recover. "This ship is called the Moray shire, and a fine ship she is, of 850 tons burden; she has ample accommodation for all of us. and I have no doubt you will be pleased to learn that, from the captain and officers, and, in fact, all the ship's company, we have received the utmost kindness and attention. Still, at times, we have been shocked to hear their awful profanation of God's holy name. 66 The emigration is conducted by acting Lieu- tenant Gregorie, of H.M.S. Juno, whose untiring kindness and strict attention to our wants have greatly endeared him to us. He is indefatigable in his exertions to promote our welfare ; he has been twice at Norfolk Island, and is well ac- quainted with the place and its capabilities ; and, according to his account, it is all we could wish. "Please to receive my sincere congratula- tions for the honour recently conferred upon you by our most gracious Sovereign; I am sure it 374 REV. G. H. NOBBS'S LETTER. is not undeserved; and, to use the words of our people, when they first heard of it, 'it ought to have been done long ago.'* " Our worthy friend, Captain Morshead, was at Pitcairri a few days before we left ; and right glad we were to welcome such a tried friend to our little island again. We have seen, by the Navy List, that our dear friends of the Portland are dispersed all over the world ; but we have bright recollections of all of them ; and to such of them as are still near, we beg you to remem- ber us kindly. Your ever grateful friend, "ARTHUR QUINTAL." The Eev. G. H. Nobbs, on the 17th July, 1856, soon after his arrival at Norfolk Island, wrote thus to the author : "I sent you a few lines by H.M.S. Dido, from Pitcairn's, intending to follow it up by a longer letter. But quite unexpectedly the ship for removing us to Norfolk Island arrived ; and we immediately commenced preparation for the removal. >. "I am not now going to enter into particulars, for I am too busily engaged to analyse my thoughts of the past, or my hopes for the future. Suffice it to say, that by the permission of Almighty God, we arrived at this place, June 8th, after a passage of thirty-five days, and were * Rear- Admiral Moresby, C.B., the Pitcairners' warm and constant friend, had received the honour of knighthood. He has since been promoted to the rank of Vice- Admiral. REV. G. H. NOBBS'S LETTER. 375 landed in tolerably good health, with an increase of one, who was baptized on board the ship. " We fortunately found H.M.S. Herald here ; and her boats gave us great assistance in land- ing. Captain Denham, notwithstanding the rain which occasionally fell, stood on the mole, and heartily welcomed us to our new home. You cannot imagine, much less can I describe (though I think at some time I shall attempt it), our feelings on landing in a place, morally and physically so entirely different from Pitcaira's. We were both gratified and disappointed ; but I think the causes for the latter feeling will gra- dually wear off. The Colonial Government of New South Wales have victualled us for six months ; but there is not a vegetable to be had, nor will there be for months to come ; and I am very fearful that our present unusual diet may induce dysentery. Captain Denham has written to the Governor-General, requesting him to send a large supply of Irish potatoes for food and seed ; and also for some rice and peas, which I trust will be quickly sent to us. "We have but little sickness among us at present, although we have already had one death that of an infant of five months, Phoebe A lams, who was very unwell when we left Pitcairn's. There was no doctor on board the ship ; consequently all the medical duties de- volved on myself. These, I can assure you, were very arduous ; for never did people suffer so much from sea-sickness as this community. "Many were sick during the whole passage, and four or five were alarmingly so, insomuch that I 376 KEV. G. H. NOBL3'S LETTER. feared for their lives ; but it pleased oar hea- venly Father to spare them. The commander of the ship was most kind and attentive, and the ship was most comfortably fitted up ; in short, we were well cared for on board the Moray shire. " We are just now getting the houses, stores, cattle, &c. &c., transferred to us; which seems to be a work of time and routine. Some of our people are getting lessons in ploughing, sheep- shearing, milking, and corn-grinding; so that we are all very busy. The weather is so unfa- vourable that we have not yet got all our effects on shore, although every exertion has been made under the superintendence of acting Lieutenant Grcgorie, of H. M.S. Juno. " Last Sabbath was a day which will long be remembered by us ; it was our first meeting in the church for "public, worship. After the morn- ing service I administered the Holy Communion, and in the evening committed to the earth a premature ear from our gradually ripening sheaf. Think of us in the church which had formerly been filled with the vilest outcasts of society; and then imagine us in the graveyard, filled \rith the mounds which contained hundreds of their bodies ; and I am sure that you yri\\ enter largely into, and partake of, the intense grati- tude, joy, grief, and (I had almost /Said) terror, which pervaded our miiuky " I should like to su}<4jlpre jJ^ut I am so fully employed all the day, an3 I carnnot see to write by night ; so that, assuring y^a I will write more fully whenever I can do so, I shall end by wishing all whom you love, that best of all GOVERNOR DENISON'S LETTER. 377 possible portions, ' The grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the fellowship of the Holy Ghost.' Amen. " P. S. The Bishop of New Zealand was here about a fortnight before our arrival, and left word that he should return in about a month." The following is an extract from a letter written to the author by Sir Win. Denison, Go- vernor of New South Wales, who has through- out shown a sincere regard for the Pitcairn Islanders and done them good service: <( Government House, Sydney, July 14, 1856. " I have to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, and to thank you for your book, giving an account of the people of Pit cairn's Island. They are now about to become inhabitants of a richer spot, and one which will, I hope, prove equally congenial to their moral condition. I take, I assure you, a great interest in their wel- fare, and have done my best in the arrange- .ments w r hich I have made for their settlement at Norfolk Island, to secure a continuance of their present system and habits, so far as these are compatible with the change of place and circumstances. "It is by no means improbable that I shall visit the island myself, in the course of a few months. I would point out to you, however, that from henceforward the islanders will not require any charitable assistance. They are now occupants of a most fertile island, with stock of all kinds, with tools and appliances for all their immediate wants." 378 COST OF REMOVAL. In relating the chief particulars of one of the most extraordinary cases of emigration on record, the author has thought it best to quote the very words of those who have taken leading parts in the events described. The opportunity of reference to these documents may one day prove of greater value than is at present apparent. The following is an -estimate of the amount required to defray the expense of the removal from Pitcairn to Norfolk Island : Freight and provisions to Norfolk Island. . . 4,480 Stores for use of the settlers on their first arrival 900 Contingencies 200 5,580 The Hobart Town Daily Advertiser, of July 28, 1856, contained the following notice : " The Moray shire, Captain Mathers, left Sydney on the 23d of last February, for the purpose of' proceeding to Pitcairn's Island, to remove the interesting community of that place to Norfolk Island. Captain Mathers reached Pitcairn's Island on the 22d of April, and sailed thence for Norfolk Island on the 3d of May, having taken on board, in the mean time, the whole population of the island, consisting of 194 souls, viz. 40 adult males, 47 adult females, 54 boys, and 53 girls, together with the whole of their goods and cnattels. The vessel arrived with her interesting freight at Norfolk Island on the 8th of June, all well. On the voyage from Pitcairn's to Norfolk Island there was one birth, a "boy, who was named Reuben Denison, after ACCOUNTS FROM HOBART TOWN. 379 his Excellency Sir W. Denison, the Governor of New South Wales, who has taken the greatest interest in the removal of these interesting- people, and who has done all in his power to provide for their subsistence, and to make them comfortable on taking possession of their new island home. Large quantities of cured beef, maize, vegetables, clothing, &c., have been forwarded by the Sydney Government in the Moray shire for their use. Independently of such supplies, a large quantity of Indian corn, the growth of the island, has been left for their con- sumption ; also 2,000 sheep, and 450 head of cattle, as well as some 500 pigs. Twenty horses have been left on the island. \ " The Rev. G. H. Nobbs, the respected pastor and surgeon of the Pitcairners, accompanied them, and, during the passage from Pitcairn to Norfolk Island, he had his hands full in both capacities ; all the islanders having been severe sufferers from sea-sickness. " Captain Mathers speaks in the highest terms of the untiring perseverance of Mr. Nobbs in attending to his charge. But for his exertions, the Captain is convinced many of the islanders would have found a long home in the waters. The Morayshire] on her passage from Pitcairn's to Norfolk Island, encountered very severe wea- ther. The first half of the passage occupied only six days, while the latter half took twenty- five days to accomplish. " The attention which these people pay to their religious duties is very exemplary, and reflects great credit upon their pastor." 380 ENTIRE REMOVAL OF CONVICTS. It appeared from this account that Field, an old convict, who had remained in charge of the cattle, &c. on Norfolk Island, had made himself so useful as a shepherd, and teacher of farming, that the islanders recommended him to the Governor of Van Diemen's Land for this purpose. They viewed Field as a reformed man ; and their letter on the subject was of a truly benevolent and Christian kind, though perhaps wanting in that prudence and caution so important in their peculiar position. Field thus obtained a ticket of leave, and the prospect of a conditional pardon ; he having been under sentence for life for sheep-stealing. On the sailing of the Moray slur e from Norfolk Island, for Sydney, he was placed on board, and was received at the Sydney convict-department, with his provisional discharge about him. After an investigation of the case, and during a week's remand, an intimation was received from Sir William Denison, that he could not permit the man to be returned to Norfolk Island ; his Excellency having resolved to allow no convicts to be mixed up with the present inhabitants. In accordance with the Governor's directions, the sitting Magistrate at Sydney ordered Field to be returned to Hobart Town, and then handed over to the Comptroller-General of convicts. In taking this discreet step, the Governor said, that, for the object required by the community, some steady married man, with a family, might be induced to settle on the island. CHAPTEE XIV. LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS RESPECTING THE VOYAGE TO NORFOLK ISLAND, AND SETTLEMENT OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY THERE THE BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND CON- FIRMATION ADDRESS TO HER MAJESTY FROM THE PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE VISIT OF SIR WM. DENISON PRESENT STATE OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR PROSPECTS CONCLUSION. THE Chaplain of Norfolk Island, in a letter to the author, dated Sept. 24th, 1856, described, with much minuteness and good feeling, the occurrences of the voyage, and the occupation of the place by its present settlers. A few por- tions of this letter from the Island will present to the reader's mind some striking events in connexion with a most interesting era of the history. Monday ', April 21st. While busily employed in the school this forenoon, a piercing and elec- trifying shout apprised me that a ship was in sight ; but it was a long time before any one came from the hill to inform me what she looked like, she being discovered from the south side of the island. About three o'clock it was ascer- tained that she was a large merchant ship standing in for the land. At four she rounded St. Paul's rock ; and then we perceived she had a pennant flying. On this being made known, some one exclaimed, " That is the ship come to convey us to Norfolk Island, and the pennant 382 ARRIVAL OF THE MORAYSHIRE, denotes she has a naval officer on board." It was the Morayskire, Captain Mathers. Having learned from the Dido, but little more than a week since, that the ship for removing us was not to be here before the latter end of July, I could not believe this was the vessel, until the ship's boat landed, bringing the com- mander of the ship, and Lieutenant Gregorie of the Juno, appointed to superintend the em- barcation of all those who were disposed to accept Her Majesty's most gracious offer ; to wit, Norfolk Island and all that appertains thereto, for themselves and families. Such an unqualified offer of so beautiful a spot as Norfolk Island is easier to imagine than realize; but it is a bondjide reality to us. Saturday, May 3d. Fine weather. Break- fast eaten 'with heavy hearts. My family being among those appointed to embark first, pre- viously to doing so Mrs. Nobbs and myself went into the graveyard, where are deposited the re- mains of our first-born. Scarcely a word was spoken by either one of us, but tears fell freely. Why ? Not because we lamented the lot of a saint in Christ, but because we were about to leave the grave and head-stone, those frail me- morials, which had become unspeakably dear to us, never to behold them more. The reflections caused our tears, and not an ungrateful repining that our son was with the Lord. Vale, Reuben, till this corruptible shall have put on incor- ruption ! At Bounty Bay we rejoined those who were to DEPARTURE FROM PITCA1RN. 383 embark in the same boat with us. Passing safely through the surf, we commenced our departure. After a short pull wo got on board the Moray* shire, and were kindly received by her com- mander. Now my vocation commenced in reality. Scarcely had we reached the ship, when women and children became sadly affected by the motion, although it was very fine weather; so placing them in the best positions, I hastened to the berth deck and got the beds into their places. But neither women nor children could remain in the berths ; so we had to make a field bed on the deck ; and as the boats came alongside and were discharged we laid the sea-sick community side by side, and did the best we could for their com- fort. By four o'clock P.M. every person was on board, without any accident occurring ; and the ship made sail with a fair breeze. In the dusk of the evening Pitcairn Island re- ceded from view, There were very few of the late inhabitants on deck to take a last long lingering look at the much-loved and ever-to-be-remem- bered spot; but very many men, women, and children wished themselves on shore again ; for so intensely were they suffering from nausea, that, could they have regained the shore, they would most assuredly have remained there, During the whole night I was continually employed in attempting to relieve their sufferings ; the few men who were not sick had to nurse the infants, and old Arthur Quintal, assisted occasionally by the captain and Lieutenant Gregorie, was employed in administering, under my direction, such re- medies as seemed most appropriate. It was a mees 384 FIRST SIGHT OF NORFOLK ISLAND, comfortless and, to most of our people, a sleepless, night. For several days did this state of things continue ; at length some of the convalescents began to appear on deck, which soon became studded with smiling faces. Friday, Jane 6th. Land ho ! I forgot to note in the proper place that, shortly after leaving Pitcairn, we changed the day of the week, that is, we went forward a day ; so that that week had but six days ; this was done to make our hebdomadal calendar coincide with that of New South Wales. Well, then, on Friday, according to the new ar- rangement, we made Norfolk Island. But it was a long way off. The wind not being fair, we made but slow progress, and night closing in upon us, hid the land from view. During the night a very heavy squall struck the ship, and caused some consternation among the more timid; the lightning also was very vivid. Saturday, June 1th. The land some twenty- five miles distant ; the weather cloudy, with pass- ing showers; a sail in shore at noon exchanged signals with her. It is H.M.S. Herald, and is, no doubt, engaged sounding round the island, as^ \he occasionally hove to. For picturesque beauty, Norfolk Island is not to be compared with Pitcairn's. At sunset pretty handy to Phillip's Island, which is some six miles from Norfolk Island, which by way of eminence is generally called the main land. Another night must be passed on board, but in all probability we shall land to-morrow. Squally weather through the night ; and, being close to the shore, it was a night of anxiety to most on board^and LANDING AT NORFOLK ISLAND. 385 I suppose to none more so than our worthy and indefatigable captain. Sunday, June 8th. Cloudy weather ; close in with Norfolk Island ; very much disappointed in its appearance from the present point of view, which is directly off the settlement, and presents a succession of hillocks and shallow ravines co- vered with short brown grass, but scarcely a tree to be seen. No doubt other parts of the island have a better appearance, but this side certainly loses in the comparison with our ' Rock of the West/ At eight o'clock the anchor was let go, and preparations made for landing. The Herald's boats also came to assist in landing the community. At ten A.M. left with my family and some others in the ship's life boat, but it blew fresh, and we were nearly two hours getting on shore, the wind being off the land ; during our passage several squalls of rain occurred, and the boat leaking badly, we were thoroughly drenched, the women and children presenting a most forlorn appearance. The landing was riot bad ; and we had no difficulty in crossing the reef, and running alongside the pier, steered by one of our own people. We were kindly received by Captain Denham, of the Herald, and Mr. Stewart, the gentleman in charge of the govern- ment establishment. Mrs. Stewart was also there, ? notwithstanding the rain, and conducted the females as they landed to the house prepared for their reception, where a large fire was made and hot tea ready; and greatly they needed these, kind attentions, for they were so cramped by the rain and the cold, that on landing many of them BB2 #86 GENEKAL THANKSGIVING. found it difficult at first to walk. However, a cup of tea and a warm at the fire soon recovered them. Being conducted by Mr. Stewart to his residence, I deposited my wife there and then returned to the pier. By one o'clock all our people were landed, without any accident occurring ; and the weather clearing up, the boats returned for our bedding. During the whole time of our debarcation Captain Den ham remained on the pier, notwithstanding the heavy rain, and welcomed our people as they landed to their new home, and evinced the greatest anxiety for their comfort. Towards the close of this eventful day we all assembled in a large upper room in the military barracks, Captain Denham and most of the go- vernment establishment being there also ; when we solemnly and gratefully offered our thanks and praises to our Triune God, for his continued goodness and mercy in thus bringing us to our future earthly home ; and I trust we were sincere in imploring his watchful care that we swerve not to the right hand nor the left. Soon after dark we all retired to rest under the same roof; and a quiet and comfortable night we passed. Monday, 9th. Moderate weather. All hands up early. After prayers, the men of our com- munity prepared to go on board for our luggage. Everything denotes that we are in a strange country the size of the houses, their construc- tion, and the great height of the rooms, the number of cattle feeding quietly about, the oxen yoked to the carts bringing our goods from the pier to the place where we reside, this same FIRST FUNERAL. 387 building three stories high, and each room eighteen feet in height ; all and everything astonished our people. Sunday, 15th. For some days little has been done towards landing anything, the Moray- shire being obliged from bad weather to get under weigh. Divine Service twice in the church, which is much out of repair about the roof. Administered the Holy Communion to fifty-eight persons ; but the only persons not of our com- munity were Captain Denham and Mr. Gregorie. After service a melancholy duty called us to the graveyard, which lay at some distance from the village. Yesterday, somewhat suddenly, though not unexpectedly, departed this life the infant Phoebe Adams. This afternoon we committed the mortal remains to its parent earth in that grave- yard where stands the record of many whose crimes had banished them from country and friends, and also of others whom deeds of violence and bloodshed after their arrival here had brought to an untimely, and, it is to be feared, an un- prepared end. Sunday, 22d. Divine Service twice ; weather moderate. At sunset a ship appeared in the offing : she has the look of a ship of war ; in all probability the Juno, which ship we are expect- ing ; if so, Lieut. Gregorie's stay among us will be short. We shall be sorry to lose him, for he is quite a favourite with our people, and deservedly so. Captain Mathers, of the Moray- shire, spent the day on shore with us, his ship standing off and on. Eight welcome is he to our hospitality. 388 DEPARTURE OF THE MORAYSHIRE. Monday, 23d. Moderate weather, but the swell is heavy on the reef. One of the large* "boats being left at anchor by the wharf got badly injured by knocking her bottom on the rocks, so that in all probability she will become a wreck. This is unfortunate : however, we have still one large boat left, but I trust she will be better cared for than the other. Got some things on shore to-day; the ship having been off here fourteen days from the time of our landing, de- murrage commences according to the tenor of the charter. The Juno (for such the ship in the offing yesterday proved to be) came to an anchor at the Cascades, it being very smooth there ; but Captain Fremantle did not land. I presume his arrival will hasten the departure of the Herald, whose stay here is principally to see us settled properly and quietly in our new abode, and to superintend the embarcation of the Crown prisoners and certain stores. But the Herald had not been idle; she has had con- tinuous employment in sounding round the island, and has obtained soundings at 150 miles' distance, an anomalous case among islands in these seas. Captain Denham has constructed a beautiful chart of the island and its vicinity, a manuscript copy of which we have obtained. ' Thursday, 26th. Early this morning Cap- tain Mathers embarked. The Moray shire got under weigh, and proceeded for Van Diemen's Land. God preserve those on board ! At four P.M. Captain Denham embarked, and soon after the Herald made sail. The Juno also got up her anchor, but is not yet going to leave us. BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND'S VISIT. 389 Saturday, 2Sth. The Juno boats landed, and got off such things as are wanted ; her ship's company kindly sent us some bags of bread, and we in return sent them some fresh beef. Captain Fremantle wrote a letter to the magis- trate, but did not land himself. At five o'clock Mr. Gregorie went on board to resume his duties there; and the Juno made sail on her cruise.; Now we are all alone, humanly speaking; yet' there is One in the midst of us who watcheth 1 over us by night and day. Sunday, 29th. Rainy weather ; Divine Ser- vice twice. The roof of the church is leaky ; and my surplice is no protection. I fear we shall have to abandon the church, and use one of the large rooms in the barracks (which is almost the only building in repair) in its stead. Monday. Some are employed tending sheep, some driving in the cattle, and two or three at the windmill grinding maize ; and it is really wonderful with what facility our people compre- hend the details of these complicated employ- ments, Friday, July th. This morning a sail was descried at no great distance ; by her rig we were at no great loss to understand whom she had on board, for we had learned that the Bishop of New Zealand had touched here a short time previous to our arrival, and that his Lordship intended to go to Sydney, and then return hither. As soon as she approached near enough, our whale-boat went on board, and soon returned bringing the Bishop's Chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Patteson. The Bishop proposes landing to-morrow, and bringing 390 BISHOP AND MRS. SELWYN, Mrs. Selwyrf with him. Mr. Patteson took up his abode with me ; and after supper the com- munity assembled at my house, and remained some hours engaged in edifying conversation and 'singing, which greatly pleased the reverend 'gentleman. Saturday, 5th.- Fine weather this morning ; 'the Kev. Mr. Patteson returned on board, and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came on shore. We, as it may be supposed, gave them a hearty .welcome ; and Government House being vacant, it was appropriated to their use during their stay. In the evening the people assembled at the Bishop's residence, and were much pleased to find that a Bishop could condescend to men of low estate. Myself busied at home preparing a sermon for the occasion, not polishing it, but endeavouring to set forth the duties of pastors 'and people ; I trust it answered the intention ; I am sure I earnestly prayed it might. Sunday, 6th. Divine Service twice, with the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. At the morning service I read prayers, and the Bishop preached a most effective sermon ; it was almost extem- porary. Afternoon ; the Bishop read prayers, and mine was the sermon. After service the Sunday school was assembled for the first time since our arrival; the Bishop took one class, Mrs. Selwyn another, and Mr. Harper, who accom- panied the Bishop, took a third ; the other classes .were attended by their usual teachers. .The classes gave entire satisfaction. In the evening many of our people went to listen to the Bishop's very instructive conversation. LATE CONVICT ESTABLISHMENT. 391 Monday, 7th. Fine weather ; the Bishop and myself went through the prisons and other de- partments of the Convict Establishment, but no sound was there of good or eviL They were merely dreadful mementos of the past. Still it was harrowing to pass through these barriers of wood and stone, and to be continually stepping on bolts and shackles, and using much strength to swing on their hinges the ponderous doors of cells and dungeons, which, when closed, were impervious to the light of day. And it seemed to me that even the very air was forbidden to enter except in very insufficient quantities. Oh, there were irrefragable proofs of the depravity of the nature of man ! that being whom God made upright, but whose rebellious perverseness brought upon himself tribulation and wrath to the uttermost. In the evening the Bishop held a public meeting, in which the interests of the community, temporal and spiritual, were dis- cussed : his Lordship also appealed to our sympathies in regard to the heathen, especially those among the islands he is now about to visit. A proposal was also made by him, that we should receive a few children from these islands into our families, and teach them the principles of the .Christian religion and industrious habits, so that 'in a few years they might return to their native lands and instruct others. I see no objection ^to our receiving a few children among us to be civilised, as far as civilisation has obtained here. [I have consented to have one child under my roof, and will do all I can for its welfare, by God's help. Tuesday, 8th. Weather very fine; the. 392 CAPT. M C ARTHUR'S SOUTHERN CROSS. Bishop's vessel (the Southern Cross), according to arrangement, came in, and was telegraphed round to the Cascades. By request the Bishop performed Divine Service, and then prepared to take his departure. Mrs. Selwyn, not enjoying S3od health, is to remain with us until the ishop's return ; and I am glad Mrs. Selwyn is going to stay among us for a time ; her instruction and example will be of much use to our girls. Jemima Young and my daughter Jane will reside with her. After dinner, went over to the Cas- cades with the Bishop, the boat from the vessel was in waiting. The Bishop told the two sea- men to come on shore, and look about them for an hour, and himself and one of our people took the oars to pull on board. Of course, the Bishop was not permitted to retain his place at the oar, one of our lads relieving him ; but I am told that he frequently pulls an oar in his boating expeditions among the islanders, swims through a heavy surf, travels sometimes barefoot, and with- out attendants, among the untamed natives, who view with astonishment and respect his fearless but conciliatory deportment. Towards evening the Southern Cross pursued her errand of mercy. On the 2d September, a vessel arrived which was at first mistaken for the Bishop's Southern Cross ; but it turned out to be another Southern Cross, Captain McArthur, who had touched at Pitcairn about a year previous. .The return of Bishop Selwyn to the Island is [thus narrated : Thursday, Sept. 4t7i. -"At three P. M. a sail was announced off the Cascades. Towards evening SOLOMON ISLANDERS. 393 she was ascertained to be a schooner, no doubt the vera SOUTHERN CROSS. Friday, 5th. The schooner off the settlement, with the flag of peace flying at the main ! One of our canoes went on board: it being somewhat rough, the schooner went round to the Cascades, where the Bishop landed, being pulled on shore by a boat's crew of Solomon Island natives, some of whom had rings in their noses, but quite tractable, they understanding and obeying every direction of the good Bishop with alacrity, so rapidly had he obtained an influence over them for good. As soon as he landed, he was fur- nished with a horse ; and I, on another, accom- panied him back to the settlement. In the evening the Bishop examined a class of cate- chumens preparatory to confirmation. During the day some half dozen Solomon Islanders, under the charge of a young man belonging to the Bishop's establishment, landed at the Cascades, and came over. They had rings in their noses ; and the lobes of their ears had been perforated, and the holes so widely extended, that they hung down like loops of Indian rubber, into which your hand might be inserted without difficulty ; otherwise they had nothing of a fero- cious appearance. They were decently clad, and displayed little curiosity or wonder at houses or their contents, or the horses or cattle which they for the first time saw. They were, however, objects of curiosity, sympathy, and attention to our people,. Saturday, 6tk. Weather calm and clear. Arranged the community in classes, preparatory 394 CONFIRMATION. to the Bishop's examining them for confirmation, which he is busily engaged upon. Sunday, 7th. Finding them competent to the wise and consistent requirements of the Church, his lordship determined to perform the scriptural rite of Confirmation this afternoon. The morning service commenced at the usual time, myself officiating. At the conclusion of the second lesson the Bishop administered the sacrament of baptism to the infant child of John Adpms the second. What would have been the feelings of John Adams the first, could he have seen this day? Just at the conclusion of the holy rite, the Bishop's Chaplain (the Rev. Mr. Patteson, who had just landed from their vessel) entered the church, having put on his surplice outside, and walking down the aisle, joined the Bishop in the chancel. So many clergymen in their appropriate vestments, present at the same time, had never before been witnessed by our community, and I think excited in them somewhat of wonder av,d veneration. The Bishop concluded the Liturgy by reading the proper portions of the nion service ; Mr. Patteson assisted. His lord- ship then went into the pulpit and Breached nearly extempore a sermon admirably suited to the occasion, from the Epistle for the day (Eph. iii. 17 19). It was listened to with breathless attention, and was, I think, thoroughly com- prehended and retentively appreciated. The sermon concluded, the Holy Eucharist (it being the first Sunday in the month) was administered to sixty-six communicants, the Bishop present- CONFIRMATION. 395 ing the bread, myself the wine. After the de- parture of the congregation, the Bishop, Mr. Patteson, and myself, with old Arthur Quintal, were for some time employed in placing stools in front of the chancel for the accommodation of the a* about to be confirmed. At half-past three in the afternoon the service commenced : the candidates were first called by name, and arranged on the before-mentioned stools ; the women on the right-hand range or tiev ; the men on the left. It was, in truth, not only an impressive, but a pleasing scene. I am sure our Christian friends would have experienced unmitigated pleasure to have seen the aged and the young renewing, and ratifying their Christian obligations in the name of the Lord from whom cometh our help. Before the conclusion, it became nearly dark in the church, and the Bishop was obliged to repair to the outer door in order to distinguish the names of the persons on the certificates of confirmation. The Bishop himself first taking each person by the nand, and using the Christian name of each, asked God's blessing on them. And then the members of the various families returned to their respective homes, well pleased and edified. The lumber of persons confirmed amounted to eighty-six, including all ages, from Elizabeth Young (daughter of Mills, of the Bounty, and the oldest person in the community, she being about sixty-six), to Andrew Christian, aged fifteen, the great grandson of Fletcher Christian. Three persons only, who were invalids, were exceptions to this general assembly. 396 DEPARTURE OF THE BISHOP. The Bishop, in describing the scene at the Confirmation which he held on the island, said, " The Chapel opened into the prison-yard, set round with every kind of cell, for every class of criminal, in every corner heaps of rusty fetters, or cast-off garments marked with the broad arrow, and numbered on the back, as if the wearer were no longer worthy of a name ; and all these signs of misery and sin, made more striking by the horrid silence of the solitary cells, or of the wards which the numbers showed to have been once crowded with twenty, thirty, or even one hundred prisoners. Close to this visible type of everything which is most hateful in sin and its consequences, might be heard the song of praise, in which every voice joined, and on the 7th of September, 1856, eighty- six persons there knelt before the Lord's Table, to receive strength to fulfil their bap- tismal promise, by fighting manfully under Christ's banner, against sin, the world, and the devil." On Tuesday, the 9th, the Bishop, with Mrs. Selwyn and Mr. Patteson, left for Auckland. It is gratifying to observe the considerate and disinterested manner in which all the arrangements, in connexion with the assign- ment of Norfolk Island to a deserving race, have been conducted by persons in power. Such a donation, so conferred, has reflected on Her Majesty's Government an amount of honour and advantage far greater than that of any pecuniary profit wlricL might have been derived PROSPECTS OF THE ISLANDERS* 397 from the sale of the whole property. Nor have feelings of kindness towards the Pitcairn community so far prevailed as to keep out of view a just and careful attention to their real interests. If they are to continue happy, they must "be industrious. Labour and toil, the original condition of man's lot on earth, will doubtless enter into the terms of the muni- ficent charter under which they will possess the island. In what way an object so essential to their own good may be attained, the wisdom of the Governor-General, and those associated with him in the conduct of affairs on the spot, will best decide. Meanwhile, it would be wise in the com- munity, and their friends far away, to pay good heed to the sensible recommendations of Sir William Denison, on the subject of aid from without, in the shape of clothes and other articles. It would be far better that the people should learn to provide for their extra require- ments by the sale of extra produce, for which there will always be a demand, than to depend upon any gratuitous supplies. With a large stock of sheep they may realize something considerable by the wool. The favourite sweet potato, and nearly all the varieties of English vegetables, may be raised in profusion. Guavas and lemons grow wild ; and, there being two crops of the former every year, they come in well to assist in feeding the pigs. Grapes, peaches, melons, figs, loquots, bananas, pine- apples, pomegranates, and cucumbers, grow in the open air. The crops of wheat, barley, 398 PROGRESS AND PROSPECTS. rye, and oats, though sometimes good, are sub- ject to blight. Should they wish to avoid intercourse with any ships and whalers which occasionally pass, they can do so. The landing at the two best points, north and south of the island, is generally difficult, owing to the heavy swell, called " the Bar," which lashes Uie island on all sides. The principal harbourage is on the southern side, in front of the settlement ; but even this is paved with anchors ; and, at low water, their flukes are seen protruding from the beds of coral. Captains of vessels have seldom shown any desire to land, unless they are in need of water, or of fruits and vegetables. With the large stone houses, one of which contains about twelve rooms, and numerous out- offices, including coach-house, stable, &c., these unambitious colonists need have little to do. They will not require the solid and extensive blocks of building, forming the old and new military barracks, which alone afforded accom- modation for 280 men with their officers ; the commissariat, convicts', and engineers' store premises ; the range of buildings forming the gaol-establishment, and the gaolers' and turnkeys 7 quarters, with the large dornitories, and mess- rooms, and dwellings for the overseers. But they will have found awaiting them- good stone cottages, some with six rooms, others with four, three, &c., and kitchens detached ; several weather-boarded cottages and huts, carpenters' and blacksmiths' shops ; a wind-mill, and a water-mill ; barns and stables; and two large boat-sheds j with NECESSITY OF LABOUR. 599 other appliances and means for the exercise of their talents and industry. If they at first miss their sweet potato, they have the Irish instead ; flour, instead of yams and plantains ; cows' milk, instead of milk from the cocoa-nut. The astonishment of the people, on viewing the magnificent structures of Norfolk Island, is said to have been great ; and they were much amazed *and delighted at the sight of a horse, a creature which they had never seen before. They were not long, however, in becoming well acquainted with the use of the noble animal. On the day after their arrival, several of them took their turns in riding the overseer's horse about the island; and by the severe exercise which they gave him, he was completely tired out by the evening. Jacob Christian, riding with more courage than skill, had a bad fall from one of the horses. The islanders have commenced farming and Gardening operations ; and they have probably iscovered, (or at least they have been assured by their judicious friend and Governor,) that labour, and plenty of it, will be necessary to advance their welfare and happiness. The various kinds of wood produced on the island, maple, ironwood, ,,and hopwood, will supply materials for solid and ornamental box-making, creditable specimens of which have been sent to England from the same hands at Pitcairn. Some of the far-famed Norfolk Island pines may per- haps be found serviceable for the purposes of Her Majesty's navy; whilst the too luxuriant growth of the vegetation, especially the wild cotton-plant, c c 400 RESOURCES ON THE ISLAND. will demand no trifling amount of exertion to keep it down, and render it serviceable. To those who are accustomed to trace the wisdom of God in the works of the Creation, the pursuit of botany will afford an ample fund of pleasure and refreshment. The fishing being good, a large supply of hooks and sea-lines, sent out to Norfolk Island, will have already been found useful. Phillip Island, about six miles distant, may be easily reached on a calm day. It abounds with rabbits ; a skilful marksman can kill suffi- cient, in a few hours, to fill his boat. There are, also, on this island, some beautiful wild goats, which may be got at with caution. Their flesh is not far inferior to our English venison. The study of books, which engaged a consi- derable portion of the day at Pitcairn, will still prove the islanders' employment and delight. An addition of some religious and useful works has lately been made to the library by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. The Pitcairn Fund Committee, sensible of the condescension and generosity shown by the Queen in favour of her loyal subjects, late of Pitcairn's Island, resolved, humbly to lay before Her Majesty the following dutiful address : TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. THE HUMBLE ADDRESS OF THE PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE. " We, your Majesty's faithful subjects, in the name of the Subscribers to the Fund, and -for ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN. 401 ourselves, humbly desire to express our most devoted loyalty and dutiful attachment to your Majesty ; and to offer our hearty thanks for the benevolent provision which your Majesty has been pleased to make in behalf of your good and most loving subjects, the late Community of Pitcairn Island, now transferred by the kind- ness of your Majesty, and, with singular success, by your Majesty's Government, to their new abode on Norfolk Island. " Leaving with feelings of regret their former habitation in the Southern Pacific, which was no longer capable of sustaining their, increasing- numbers, one hundred and ninety-four persons have been safely removed, and located on Nor- folk Island, a home the most suitable for them in your Majesty's dominions, luxuriant in its natural productions, and sufficiently remote from the commerce of the world. There the simplicity of their manners may, under God's blessing, long continue. " Furnished, by your Majesty's fostering care, with the present necessaries of life, with imple- ments of agriculture, with horses, oxen, and sheep, and seeds to sow in their due season, the new inhabitants of Norfolk Island have already shown a surprising aptitude for the performance of the several duties arising from their altered position. " They have expressed their heart-felt grati- tude for the advantages conferred upon them by your Majesty. And we, in unison with them, do gratefully acknowledge your Royal benefi- cence ; and look to the influence of their unaf- cc 2 402 VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR. fected piety, and pure Christian practice, for the most happy results to the future welfare of the islanders of the Pacific and Indian Oceans. " That this glorious anticipation may be real- ized, we humbly pray your Majesty graciously to continue to the Community your benign care, and powerful protection. And we most humbly beseech Almighty God to prosper this your Majesty's excellent work." The Committee were apprised, soon after the presentation of the Address, that it had been very graciously received by Her Majesty. It was added, that both Her Majesty and the Prince Consort had read with much interest the Report of the Committee, as to the safe transfer of the Pitcairn Community to Norfolk Island. The Governor of New South Wales and Norfolk Island, in a letter to the Islanders from Sydney, Feb. 16, 1856, had expressed a hope of becoming personally acquainted with them ; and said, he trusted that they would continue to maintain that happy simplicity, and true Christian character, which had gained for them regard and esteem all over the world. His Excellency accordingly paid his intended visit to Norfolk Island, and saw the community in the enjoyment of the advantages of their new home. Having sailed from Sydney on the 17th Sept. 1857, he had reached Norfolk Island on the 23d, and found a large proportion of the popula- tion, with the Eev. G. H. Nobbs at their head, ready to receive and welcome the distinguished visitor. Horses had been brought ; but the Go- vernor preferred walking, across the Island, HIS ADVICE AND INSTRUCTIONS. 403 accompanied by Mr. Nobbs, and the Chief Magistrate, Mr. Young, to the settlement, a distance of about three miles. On the following day he called the inhabitants together in the school-room, and read his commission, which, together with the instructions forwarded to him by the Secretary of State for his guidance, he caused to be copied into the book containing the laws of the Colony. He also applied for certain written returns as to names, families, population, available land, and other statistics. The people being much in want of flour and biscuit, he determined to proceed to Auckland, New Zealand, to get the requisite food, as well as to arrange for a trade in such things as wool, tallow, and hides, which the Islanders had for sale. He embarked for Auckland on Saturday, the 26th September, and returned to Norfolk Island on the 8th of October. In the mean time, the returns had been prepared, and the Governor had finished his revision of the Laws and Eegulations. A meeting of the adult portion of the community was held on the 14th, when he explained to them the objects of Her Majesty's Government in placing them where they were, and gave them valuable instruction and advice, in order that they might, with God's blessing, maintain their increasing numbers by their own exertions, and keep up, as far as pos- sible, the peculiar form of polity under which they had existed so happily on another spot The necessity of regular and energetic labour was impressed upon them ; and, to facilitate this, the Governor proposed to send as settlers on the 404 NEW SETTLERS ON THE ISLAND. Island, some fit and competent persons. Mr. Thomas Rossiter, who was deemed eligible as a Schoolmaster and Storekeeper, and who had been a successful Master of a Church of England In- dustrial School in Hertfordshire, was at the head of the party. He was accompanied by his wife, his two children, and his sister. James Darve, miller, wheelwright, and smith, with his wife and two children, and H. J. Blinman, single man, mason and plasterer, made up the number of ten. These persons having been appointed by Her Majesty's Emigration Commissioners, sailed from Plymouth in the Palmyra, Feb. 13, 1859. The passage-money to Sydney was, in each case, defrayed from the fund raised by the Pitcairn Fund Committee. The whole balance of the amount invested has since been placed by the Committee in the hands of the Governor, for the benefit of the Islanders. Mr. Fortescue Moresby, R.N. of the Iris, ac- companied Sir William Denison on his visit to Norfolk Island. In a letter dated H.M.S. Iris, Sydney, Nov. 27, 1857, Mr. Moresby said: "I landed at Norfolk Island on the 25th of September, with three other officers : and never, indeed, did any man receive a warmer welcome than I did ; much to the wonder of the officers who were with me. I was carried back to those times when I landed at Pitcairn in company with my dear father ; and I heartily wished him with us, to see the kindly faces around me. As Mrs. Selwyn was on the Island, I walked up to pay her my respects, and then returned to Mr. Nobbs's house, to take some photo- PROVISION FOK THE COMMUNITY. 405 graphic pictures of the Islanders ; for I had all my apparatus on shore. I turned Mr. Nobbs's study into an impromptu dark room, and then took some pictures. Of course, in taking groups with children, some of them moved." A narrative of the Governor's visit, and the substance of his instruction and advice to the Islanders, were communicated by him in a lecture, which he delivered in the Hall of the School of Arts, at Sydney, New South Wales, on the 24th of November, 1857. The following particulars will afford a just view of the present state of Norfolk Island : The whole of the island has been surveyed, and divided into allotments, averaging about fifty acres to each allotment ; and it has been decided by Sir William Denison, that one allotment shall be assigned to each of the families now resident on the Island. The island being the property of the Crown, the right of ownership, in every instance, will be held on a grant from the Crown. A document will be issued to each head of a family, con- veying to him in fee the absolute property in one of the portions or allotments. The deeds of conveyance have been sent to the island, but are not to be handed over to those concerned until 1861. The Governor, after the symptoms of in- decision manifested by some members of the com- munity, deemed it undesirable to place property in the hands of persons who might be disposed to part with it for the purpose of procuring means of returning to Pitcairn's Island. Should a deed of grant be lost, the defect 406 REGULATION OF PROPERTY. may be repaired by a simple numerical system of registration, such as is adopted in New Zealand. A wish having been expressed by the com- munity that grants of allotments should be made to unmarried females, who had reached a certain age, this recommendation will probably take effect, under the restriction, that, at their decease, the property which they had possessed should revert to the Crown. Firm and prudent measures have been taken for the regulation of property in the live-stock on the island. Owing to the deficiency of skilled labourers for the works, and to other causes, the inhabitants appear, in the early period of their residence on Norfolk Island, to have failed in making energetic efforts to replenish the supplies of sheep and cattle lost by disease, or slaughtered for food. With the view of remedying this state of things, Sir William Denison made the sheep Government pro- perty, and directed that they should be allowed to increase until they reached the original number of two thousand. The product of the wool and of the carcases serves to create a fund for the benefit of the islanders. His Excellency also procures goods at Sydney, which are des- patched, at proper intervals, to the storekeeper, Mr. Kossiter, for their use ; that is, for such as choose to purchase. In addition to the profitable results of their fishery, and the tuns of whale-oil which have been sent to Sydney for sale, the islanders, through the sagacity of one of their body, have discovered a THE CHAPLAIN'S ACCOUNT. 407 fruitful source of gain in a fine species of stone suited for filters. This ingenious person found the quarry, excavated the stones, and formed them into the shape of filters. This filter, or drip- stone, containing about four gallons, is invalu- able for a whale ship ; and these hollowed stones actually fetch from 4 to 5 each. The people are also enabled to manufacture soap, for which they find a sale among the whalers visiting the island. The last letter received from the Rev. G. H. Nobbs, dated Norfolk Island, October 20th, 1859, gives the following account: " On the 27th of December last, a ship named Secibird, belonging to McNamara and Co., of Sydney, left this place; my son Edwin taking a passage in her at the request of Sir William Denison. By this ship I forwarded to your address a basket of Fiji manufacture, containing various ornaments and mats of heathen origin, and which I thought would serve as subjects for lectures ; there were also two photograph en- gravings, suitable for the Norfolk Island portion of your book ; letters to Admiral Moresby, Sir Thomas Acland, Mrs. Heywood, and other valued friends ; and, lastly, several original papers, to wit, a sermon preached before the Governor-General, some verses, entitled, ' The Coral Isles/* with a string of notes appended, and a variety of other pieces. " On the 2d of last December, two families, those of Mayhew Young and Moses Young, left this place for Pitcairn's, in a schooner of eighty tons, called the Mary Anne. Of these persons, For these clever and spirited verses, see page 357* 408 SECEDERS FROM NORFOLK ISLAND. sixteen in number, the parents were the only persons over the age of fifteen years. We have heard nothing of them since their departure, and you can easily imagine how great our anxiety is concerning them. During the four or five months subsequent to their departure, nothing of note transpired beyond the arrival of H.M.S. Cordelia, bringing despatches from the Go- vernor-General, and a letter from yourself, informing me that you had forwarded a box containing the articles I mentioned. The next letter I received was by Mr. Rossiter, on the 23d of June, dated January 1st, 1859, and with it a package of excellent books from your bene- volent Society. Your new year's letter was most acceptable. The next letters which came to hand arrived through the kindness of Bishop Selwyn; and with them the long-announced and anxiously-expected box, in good order, and everything correct ; the clothing, &c. all ex- cellent, and well-fitting. The letters were dated July and October, 1858, and had been sent with the box on board H.M.S. Elk, to be brought hither ; but on her arrival at Auckland she was ordered elsewhere, and the things she had on board were transferred to the Southern Cross. For the books furnished by your Society, and contained in this box, I beg leave to offer my grateful, my unqualified thanks. The Cate- chisms are the helps I have long needed ; that is to say, a sufficient quantity of them to form classes ; and now that I have so much more time to attend to this particular branch of school instruction, I think you may well expect me to CONFIRMATION BY BISHOP SELWYN. 409 say, { I am grateful.' The Bishop remained with us on this occasion three days, and held a confirmation of three persons, there being no more of sufficient age. His Lordship then made sail for the Isles of darkness in this vicinity ; and we are expecting his return in a week or two, on his way to Auckland. He is as kind as ever, and we are the recipients of many, very many favours at his hands. There is no one here but loves his lordship truly. " Our people succeeded in taking a hundred and twenty barrels of oil last year, one hundred of which were sent to Sydney, and realized 240. This money has just been remitted to us, but will not more than cover the expenses of the fitting out of last season, and the cost of new boats, lines, casks, &c. for an establishment on a larger scale this year. We have now four boats well equipped, which require twenty- four men to work them. The whaling season is now almost over; but not more than thirty barrels of oil have yet been secured, owing to the scarcity and shyness of the whales ; but this is nothing strange in the whaling lottery : another year may be altogether as plentiful. Two weeks since they killed three large cow whales, but they sank immediately (a common case) ; one was afterwards recovered, but the sharks had so preyed upon it that not more than fifteen barrels of oil were obtained. In the melee at that time we had one boat smashed, but the boat's crew would not run from the whale. With a hole in the fore part of the boat big enough for a man to go through, they all 410 WHALING ADVENTURE. removed to the after part, and in spite of trie kicking and fighting of the whale, held on till the other boats came to their assistance, which was scarcely done when the broken boat, being full of water, rolled over, bottom up. In that boat I had three sons and two sons-in-law. On their return, I remonstrated with them for their rashness, but they seemed to think there was no great danger. " The season has been very favourable for our crops, and we have plenty of Indian corn and sweet potatoes, with fish, milk, and butter. Irish potatoes will not thrive ; would they do so, whale ships would supply us with almost every- thing we need. Flour we must also import. There has been very little sickness among the community ; the most are becoming contented, and consequently comfortable. " Mr. Rossiter is, I think, just such a man as was needed industrious in school, and out, and very unassuming. " Her Majesty's ship Niger was here a short time since, bringing a large quantity of articles, purchased by Sir William Denison, for opening a store under the direction of Mr. Rossiter. The only expensive thing is flour, which at the B'esent time is dear at Sydney. Sir William enison has taken the control of the sheep into his own hands. The wool is to be sent to Sydney, and the proceeds therefrom will be placed in bank for the benefit of the community; but can only be drawn with the consent of the Governor, whose signature must be affixed to the drafts. CAPABILITIES OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 411 " As respects other matters we are going on very well. There have been fifty births since our arrival ; and it would appear that baptisms and churchings will be of weekly occurrence ere long. But Norfolk Island contains 8,607 acres, which will give a fifty acre lot to 172 families (there are now forty) ; so that there is plenty of room for increase ; though I am not at all anxious there should be any influx of strangers beyond those we have at present, save a parson and a doctor, when I am invalided or buried, as it may be providentially ordered by Him who doeth all things well. There have been no marriages this year, and but two deaths infants of a few days old. In short, since our arrival, now more than three years, the deaths which have occurred are those of a young woman, aged fifteen, from con- sumption ; a child of five years, from concus- sion of the brain, the result of an accident ; and four infants : total, six. Asthma and rheu- matism are the principal complaints, and they are less severe than at Pitcairn's. The last year and the present have been very productive, from the frequency of showers during the summer months ; but I perceive from a meteorological journal, kept here formerly, these are exceptional occurrences, and that long-continued droughts between October and February are frequently fatal to the corn and sweet potato crops. But Moses' injunction and promise are equally in force now, as in ancient days, ' Ye shall serve the Lord your God, and He shall bless thy bread and thy water.' " The number of persons belonging to the 412 CENSUS OF THE COMMUNITY. comimmity is 221 : 112 males, and 109 females. This is exclusive of the sixteen returned to Pitcairn's, and the families recently arrived, now numbering ten persons. Communicants, ninety- seven. Children in the public school, sixty- three, all of whom attend the Sunday-school, which is composed of eight classes. The teachers are Thomas Rossiter, Jemima Young, Jane Nobbs, Francis Nobbs, Johnstone Nobbs, Edwin Nobbs, Macey Quintal, and myself. I take the younger ones, and as soon as they are organized, appoint a permanent teacher for them, and then collect another class from the literally ' little ones.' Not being able to attend every Sunday as I have frequently patients to visit after the public services are concluded, my absence is not so much felt by a young class as it would be by those more advanced : besides, I am frequently a visitor to all the classes." The captain of a vessel which called at Norfolk Island as lately as September, 1859, has thus described his visit, in the Hobart Town Daily Mercury, December 12th, 1859 : " In the month of September, 1859, I visited Norfolk Island (the present home of the Pitcairn Islanders), to recruit my vessel. It was their Sabbath, and I well knew that they would transact no business on that day. I went on shore, however, in the morning. On approach- ing the beach, I found several of my former acquaintances assembled to give me a hearty welcome. No sooner did the boat touch the ground, than she was carried clear of danger by CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 413 my own crew, and the parties on the beach. The kind and affectionate manner in which these trusting people welcomed me cannot be expressed in words. After placing our boat in safety, we were escorted by them from the Cas- cades to the settlement, where every hospitality was shown both to myself and my men. " It being the Sabbath, I did not encroach on their time ; but on the following day the Pitcairn Islanders of both sexes, children included, came to give us a hearty English welcome, and to minister to our immediate wants ; nor did their kindness and attention cease until I left. It coming on to blow, my vessel was compelled to get under weigh and stand out to sea, leaving me on the island, and I was thus enabled to learn from them their immediate wants, their form of government, and such like. Their mode of government is extremely simple, and as effective as it is simple. A magistrate and two councillors are elected annually. If any dispute arises, it is referred to these, and their decision is presumed to be binding. If, however, that decision is. not satisfactory, a reference is made to the captain of the first British man-of-war touching at the island ; and from his decision there is no appeal. These disputes, however, never create any angry feeling between the parties ; they live on as friendly as ever. The magistrates have very little difficulty in recti- fying all differences as they arise. " During my stay, I conversed with the greatest part of the community. Crime of any kind, theft, swearing, falsehood, immorality, are 414 CONCLUSION. unknown on the island. Although devout in their religious services and observances, they are, at the same time, cheerful and buoyant in spirits, neither knowing wrong themselves, nor dreading wrong from others.' 7 It is gratifying to observe the religious, moral, and amiable traits of character, which were so attractive at Pitcairn, still marking the conduct and manners of the people in their new and more amply furnished home. But it will be evident to every thoughtful reader, that they are beset with trials of various kinds, espe- cially those which are incident to increased responsibility, and extended possessions ; and that, like their brethren here, and everywhere, they will have daily need of divine grace, to prevent them from falling, and to enable them to keep themselves unspotted from the world. 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