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 BY 
 
 RUTH K. MIDDLETON 
 
 Published by 
 
 GEO. RICE & SONS 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 DEDICATED 
 TO MY HUSBAND 
 WHO MADE IT POSSIBLE 
 
 2091369
 
 The Plaza Hotel, New York. 
 December 10, 1909 
 
 THE DAY BEFORE WE SAILED 
 
 After a very busy day we are about to retire. I 
 happen to go to the desk, where there is a postal which 
 Mr. Middleton has written to a friend. It reads: 
 "Dear Andy: We sail for Italy. Goodby! George." 
 
 DECEMBER llth 
 
 My good husband and I sailed today on the Berlin. 
 It is a beautiful boat, new, and very large; capacity, 
 twenty thousand tons; two hundred and fifty state- 
 rooms. Mr. and Mrs. Anderson brought us to the 
 boat in a Lozier. It is such a comfortable wagon to 
 ride about in, that we felt very large, indeed. While 
 on the boat, Mr. and Mrs. Havlin arrived, bringing 
 half a dozen love stories to while away the hours. 
 In our stateroom were bunches of American Beau- 
 ties, tied with beautiful green ribbon, from Mr. and 
 Mrs. Anderson; a "Bon Voyage" basket from Mr. 
 and Mrs. Albee, filled with choice fruits and candies 
 and two pints of wine, rare vintage; many tele- 
 grams, wishing us a pleasant journey. We started 
 well and happy. 
 
 THREE HOURS OUT 
 
 We seem to be good sailors. But as the boat leaves 
 the shore, I experience a sensation that I shall never 
 forget; to feel the vessel gently moving away, while 
 the band plays national airs makes one understand the
 
 6 A LINE A DAY 
 
 meaning of "Home," our native land, and its many 
 ties. The patriotic chain lengthens as the boat drifts 
 out to sea. 
 
 SECOND DAY OUT 
 
 The weather is beautiful, the sea is smooth, and the 
 boat most comfortable. We have slept remarkably 
 well, and are enjoying the beautiful roses, while so far 
 we have not missed a meal. We have Mr. Batonyi, 
 the late husband of Mrs. Burke-Roche, on board. 
 Also U. S. Grant, Jr., and family. I begin to feel that 
 I am going to make a great sailor. I am reading the 
 "Love Stories of Great Men and Women," a delight- 
 fully interesting book, a pleasure I owe Mrs. Havlin. 
 
 THIRD DAY OUT 
 
 It is very rough, and I have kept to my cabin all 
 day. We made three hundred and sixty miles the first 
 day; the second day three hundred and forty-eight. 
 While this is a large, beautiful boat, she rocks some. 
 This is her seventh trip; she made her maiden trip 
 the first of May. There are some nice points about 
 her, they say, but I have not found them. The basket 
 of fruit has saved my life I have been unable to eat 
 anything for two days. 
 
 THE SAILOR 
 
 He tosses on the silvery deep 
 
 From early morn till late, 
 With not a care save to eat and sleep : 
 
 The jolly sailor and his mate 
 But the sailor's life is not for me! 
 
 FOURTH DAY OUT 
 
 In the cabin another day and so is almost everyone 
 else aboard. My cabin companion, who is an old sea 
 dog, is a little groggy. (This is typical sailors' talk, 
 easily understood by "jolly jack tars.") It has been
 
 AROUNDTHEWORLD 7 
 
 decidedly rough, and we had a very hard night. I have 
 concluded that I am a land sailor. I am like the little 
 boy in the adjoining cabin, who has been very ill for 
 two days. He, like myself, had a great admiration for 
 the boat the first day, but as he has been in his berth, 
 and cannot get out, he lies and moans: "Oh, boat, 
 what is the matter with you!" We have made the 
 acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs. McCormick, Mr. 
 Rockefeller's relatives. We made three hundred and 
 fifty-eight miles today. 
 
 FIFTH DAY OUT 
 
 Another day in bed. Very rough. Mr. Middleton 
 keeps going and brings all the news down to me. Oh, 
 how this boat rolls ! Like the clown, I want to get off 
 and walk. Tomorrow we pass the Azores Islands. 
 We did three hundred and sixty-seven miles today. 
 The wind is blowing a terrible gale. While not so ill 
 as I have been, I do not seem to get my sea legs. Mr. 
 Middleton looks like a jolly jack tar, with his cap on 
 his ear, and his debonair manner. We passed some 
 sailing vessels today. It is quite an event at sea 
 merely to see something moving in the distance. 
 
 SIXTH DAY OUT 
 
 The weather is delightfully calm, and the salt air is 
 very refreshing. We are up on der-k, and feeling fine. 
 The waves are large, and beautiful to see. Mr. 
 Middleton helped me to dress this morning. I found 
 him a very good maid. It is so restful to lie here in the 
 steamer chair, wrapped in robes, listening to the 
 swish of the water, communing with one's self, through 
 the sweet and happy memories of the past few years, 
 measuring life's sorrows with life's joys, to find that 
 at last they balance. 
 
 SEVENTH DAY OUT 
 
 The weather is more agreeable. It is a joy to live. 
 All the passengers seem to have taken heart again.
 
 8 A LINE A DAY 
 
 There is more activity everywhere, and more mirth 
 and conversation on all sides. We passed the St. 
 Michael Islands today about noon; a magnificent 
 panorama. The small white houses looked like doll 
 houses. These islands are inhabited by Spanish and 
 Portuguese. One could see the tiny vegetable gardens, 
 and cultivated spots on the sides of the mountains. It 
 must be very difficult to raise anything in a region 
 so very rocky and mountainous. We did three hun- 
 dred and ninety-five miles today. This boat can do 
 four hundred and fifty. I am beginning to get my sea 
 legs. My dear old sea mate has never missed a meal, 
 and becomes the ship wherever you put him. 
 
 EIGHTH DAY OUT 
 
 The weather fine, and the sea smooth. We have 
 made some delightful friends. We exercise each morn- 
 ing in the "gym" by riding a wooden horse. We are 
 going to have lunch on deck. (They say that this 
 boat cost $3,500,000 to build, equip, and get into 
 commission.) We sighted a sailing vessel today, like 
 a bird in the distance. 
 
 NINTH DAY OUT 
 
 A quiet day. We landed at Gibraltar four hours 
 late, which was rather depressing. We visited a little, 
 and worried the day through. We sighted four ships 
 today, and noted St. Vincent's Point, whence 
 Christopher Columbus sailed. We can see a 
 monument erected in his honor. 
 
 TENTH DAY OUT 
 
 We arose very early this morning to go ashore at 
 Gibraltar our first day on land. We went on deck 
 at five- thirty to see the run rise. (I have written 
 elsewhere how it impressed me.) We went ashore in a 
 tender. Gibraltar is just a huge rock. But it is 
 wonderful. Its formation is so strange, and the people
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 9 
 
 so picturesque, with their quaint customs. Spanish is 
 the native tongue. It is an English army station 
 soldiers on every side, arrayed in scarlet coats and blue 
 trousers, with queer little Tommy Atkins sticks, quite 
 " swagger," I assure you. The discipline on this rock 
 is very severe. For example: An American boy, 
 twenty years of age, was confined for eighteen months 
 in the old Moorish castle used as a prison, for stealing 
 a loaf of bread. He was released today, and great 
 excitement prevails everywhere. 
 
 The gates leading into Spain are closed every night 
 at ten o'clock, and no one is permitted to pass. There 
 are strange ruins of Moorish castles all over this 
 region. 
 
 We have had a strange little companion pattering 
 along with us for about two hours a Spanish boy 
 tramp, bare-footed and ragged, with his dear little 
 round face, and roguish dancing eyes. Our whole 
 hearts went out to him poor little man, without 
 love, without sympathy, without home. It was really 
 very hard to leave him. 
 
 A visit to the market is extremely interesting. It is 
 conducted by Moors. The single men wear pure white 
 robes; the married ones red and black. These robes 
 are similar to those worn by the monks a thousand 
 years ago. They are cut like a bath robe, with a 
 cord around the waist, and an immense hood on the 
 back. They remind one forcibly of the ad. for St. 
 Jacob's oil. Priests stand around each booth at the 
 market, blessing the purchases, at this period of the 
 year, which is their holiday time. Across the street 
 which is just a path dry goods, fruit, meat and china 
 are sold. The men who handle the turkeys and pigs 
 are queer vendors. They drive their produce around in 
 droves from door to door, or from one customer to 
 another in the street. Each vendor has his flock of 
 pigs or chickens marked with a different colored paint 
 on their feathers; some will have a cross on the back 
 of the fowl or pig, others have just a dab of gaudy
 
 10 ALINEADAY 
 
 colored paint. The vendor drives them with a queer 
 little shepherd's crook, which is painted to match the 
 color of his wares. You take your choice of these 
 fowls or pigs, and get them home as best you can. 
 
 We visited an old public park here, and admired the 
 quaint old trees, some of them more than two thousand 
 years old, and the beautiful shrubbery and flowers. 
 In this park some of the shrubs are trimmed to 
 represent a lion, the coat-of-arms of England, and the 
 monogram of the King of England, cut on the day he 
 visited the city, in 1806. 
 
 Mr. Middleton bought some cigars here from a man 
 who owns a remarkable performing cat. This animal, 
 yellow and white striped, is chained like a dog in front 
 of the cigar store. He is very smart, and seems to 
 understand everything you say to him. He is the 
 trade mark of the store, and is known the world over, 
 as so many boats stop here each year, and their pas- 
 sengers stroll up and down this street, the main street 
 of the city. 
 
 We are returning to our home the Berlin. It is 
 now luncheon time, and we both are very tired and 
 hungry. We intend to sit on deck, and view the 
 harbor of Gibraltar. Many boats and schooners, very 
 quaint old vessels, no longer used, are lying about and 
 give the harbor a most picturesque appearance. 
 
 As our boat starts to sea we leave the Atlantic and 
 enter the Mediterranean. All day we will be able to 
 see the northern coast of Africa. The day is perfect, 
 as we sail on. It is very quiet only the musical 
 swish of the waves breaks the silence. The color of 
 the water has at last changed to the Mediterranean 
 blue. I have been waiting for this all along. It is a 
 peculiarly deep blue, unlike any shade I have ever 
 seen before. All is very placid and restful as we drift 
 along, admiring the many pretty changes in the sky. 
 The sun begins to sink to rest, and a mysterious light 
 brightens the east. It is a glorious Mediterranean 
 sunset a sight long to be remembered. The colors
 
 A ROUND THE WORLD 11 
 
 change from opal to red a brilliant, fiery red; then 
 fade to a lovely amethyst; from violet to a soft, dark 
 smoky blue, while strange and wonderful cloud 
 formations appear trees, lakes, mountains, writhing 
 dragons, and the sun, an immense disc of fire, rolls 
 slowly downward. Involuntarily, we hope for the 
 golden gates to open, and admit us to that mysterious 
 great beyond. In this gorgeously beautiful sunset 
 we can almost see the regal splendor of that other 
 world. 
 
 ELEVENTH DAY OUT 
 
 Another beautiful day, quiet, and very warm. We 
 have read, and passed the day pleasantly. Sighted 
 a boat from Algiers. We were very close to her 
 within half a mile. The northern shore of Africa has 
 been visible all day. The sea has been as smooth as a 
 mirror, with a clear blue sky. The sunset is like the 
 day quiet, with subdued coloring, and we closed our 
 eyes with a rested feeling. 
 
 TWELFTH DAY OUT 
 
 The day began with a fog our first fog, and a very 
 heavy one. We passed the Island of Sardinia, where 
 the finest sardines originally came from, lying off the 
 west coast of Italy. We arrive at Naples in the 
 morning. 
 
 DECEMBER 23 
 
 We land at Naples early eight a. m., and very 
 foggy. We can see the outline of wicked old Vesuvius 
 in the distance, and the city between the hills. The 
 bay of Naples is indeed a beautiful bay considered 
 the most beautiful in the world. The points of land 
 protruding far out make it a most peaceful water to 
 welcome the storm-tossed vessels, and rest their 
 weary passengers. Such a sight greets the home- 
 coming Italians with all their friends and relatives 
 to welcome them! The men talk wildly, and claw
 
 12 ALINEADAY 
 
 each other, while the poor women, in their gay attire, 
 weep and moan. The customs' officers add to the 
 picture, in their brilliant uniforms of Italian blue, with 
 bright stripes on the trousers, and queer little stiff 
 caps, adorned with a bright yellow ornament, 
 resembling a goat's beard, upside down. 
 
 We went through the customs with very little 
 trouble, got our baggage, and departed for the 
 Bertolini Palace Hotel. This hotel is built on a moun- 
 tain, overlooking the superb bay, and down on lovely 
 villas and gardens. It is an extremely quiet place. 
 There are two excellent restaurants here. 
 
 Beneath the windows of our room is a large grape 
 fruit tree, with grape fruit on it as large as a foot ball; 
 oranges, tangerines, flowers of every variety, and 
 beautiful warm sunshine on the twenty-third of 
 December. The poet well describes this region as the 
 "Land of Love, Song, and Art! 
 Sunny, sunny Italy!" 
 
 After a little bustling about with our trunks we are 
 ready to start on a trip around Naples. We have 
 visited the coral shops and the shell shops. We ride up 
 and down the beautiful hills, and visit the old palace 
 of the king, in all its splendor high ceilings, thick 
 walls and colonnades, covered with silk and tapestry, 
 rare of color and weave, exquisite marbles, paintings, 
 and a real throne w r here kings in ancient times have 
 sat in state. 
 
 We are having our Christmas dinner with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Messing, of Chicago. W r e dine very quietly, 
 and dance afterward, with thoughts of home and its 
 loved ones. Tomorrow is Sunday, a day of rest; 
 I am thankful for it, as we have been in quite a whirl. 
 We had luncheon late, and started for a ride around 
 the bay in the victoria. A beautiful sight, and a 
 most delightful day, very warm. We had tea on the 
 veranda overlooking the harbor. We are taking the 
 train in the morning at eight o'clock for Pompeii, 
 where we arrive after a two hours' journey.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 13 
 
 Pompeii a city of ruins, destroyed A. D. 79. We 
 found the city very small, built on the side of a hill, 
 with Mt. Vesuvius towering over it, a little to the east, 
 ten or twelve miles distant. This city has been 
 completely covered for almost two thousand years. 
 Some of it has been unearthed we should judge 
 about one-fourth, and they are still working on it each 
 day. It is a very slow process. The pillars and walls 
 still stand a ghastly sight. Two thousand people 
 were buried in the ruins; the rest fled. But their 
 marvelous works of art remain, just in patches; 
 mosaics in wonderful colorings, some executed in 
 shells, others in marble; statues and exquisite frescoes 
 on the walls. The House of Vetti is especially inter- 
 esting. Signer Vetti was a bachelor of great wealth 
 and eccentric artistic tastes. The frieze in his dining 
 room is in a state of perfect preservation. Grapes, 
 fruits of all kinds, and fish, are realistically painted 
 in this frieze, with little nude figures here and there; 
 gracefully beautiful dancing women, and men of 
 strength and athletic build adorn the walls. Carved 
 marble vases, and a bath tub of solid onyx are among 
 the luxuries of this most sumptuous home. 
 
 In the ruins is a theatre, horseshoe shaped. It was 
 supposed to seat ten thousand people. On their gala 
 days, they lowered an immense awning over the 
 audience, and over the little boxes where sat the chosen 
 few. The ruins of the Forum and Municipal Baths 
 are most interesting. The great large chambers are 
 almost perfect, with their marble slabs and swimming 
 pools, and the hot rooms separated by very thick 
 walls were surely luxurious, indeed. It is supposed 
 that these baths were conducted very much like the 
 high class gentlemen's clubs of today. These baths 
 were a rendezvous for the idle rich, whither they went 
 in the afternoon, about four o'clock, to take their 
 bath, to smoke, to chat of the great events of the day, 
 and then go to their respective homes for dinner. 
 There were many such baths throughout the city of
 
 14 ALINEADAY 
 
 Pompeii, different prices for the different classes. 
 
 Much of this city's wonderful art is lost. Their art 
 of making mosaics of shells, as well as their beautiful 
 shades of red and blue. A gentleman, whose name is 
 supposed to have been Baer, had a mosaic bear in his 
 doorway, leading into his garden with its marble 
 fountains. 
 
 We took a train from Pompeii to La Cava, where 
 we passed the night. Sunday afternoon we drove up 
 the village to a monastery on the mountain, known as 
 the Benedictine Monastery, almost two thousand 
 years old. The monks were known as the Benedictine 
 monks, an order long since extinct. Here are cata- 
 combs, where the crowned heads for centuries have 
 been buried. There are pyramids of bones and skulls 
 a ghastly spectacle. We descended the stairs below 
 the church, where the keeper, by the light of a small 
 kerosene lamp, showed us where the bodies were put 
 in vaults to decay, and the bones removed and stacked 
 like cord wood, to make room for more. 
 
 We drove from La Cava to Amalfi, a distance of 
 thirty miles, a beautiful drive, winding around 
 Sardinia Bay. So picturesque: passing miles of 
 lemon trees, oranges and olives, with the mountains 
 in the distance and the sea below. We were three 
 thousand feet above the sea almost all the way around. 
 We stopped at another monastery belonging to the 
 government of Italy. It is now a hotel, the Capucina. 
 We climbed one hundred and eighty-two steps. I was 
 carried up in a Sedan chair, one of the luxuries of the 
 whole trip. The view from this hotel was a picture. 
 This is a very small village one might almost call 
 it a deserted village three thousand of its people 
 having emigrated to America at one time. The nouses 
 with the doors and windows gone give the place such 
 a neglected look that one feels that nobody is at home. 
 Longfellow wrote a beautiful poem to this city. We 
 spent a night and day here, and then on our way to 
 Sorrento.
 
 A ROUND THE WORLD 15 
 
 AMALFI 
 BY LONGFELLOW 
 
 Sweet the memory is to me 
 
 Of a land beyond the sea, 
 
 Where the waves and mountains meet. 
 
 Where, amid her mulberry trees 
 
 Sits Amalfi in the heat, 
 
 Bathing ever her white feet 
 
 In the tideless summer seas. 
 
 In the middle of the town, 
 From its fountains in the hills, 
 Tumbling thro* the narrow gorge, 
 The Canneto rushes down, 
 Turns the great wheels of the mills, 
 Lifts the hammers of the forge. 
 
 'Tis a stairway, not a street, 
 That ascends the steep ravine, 
 Where the torrent leaps between 
 Rocky walls that almost meet. 
 Toiling up from stair to stair, 
 Peasant girls their burdens bear; 
 Sunburnt daughters of the soil, 
 Stately figures tall and straight, 
 What inexorable fate 
 Dooms them to this life of toil? 
 
 Lord of vineyards and of lands 
 Far above the convent stands. 
 On its terraced walk aloof 
 Leans a monk with folded hands; 
 Placid, satisfied, serene, 
 Looking down upon the scene 
 Over wall and red-tiled roof; 
 Wondering unto what good end 
 All this toil and traffic tend, 
 And why all men cannot be 
 Free from care and free from pain,
 
 16 ALINEADAY 
 
 And the sordid love of gain, 
 And as indolent as he. 
 
 Where are now the freighted barks 
 From the marts of east and west? 
 Where the knights in iron sarks, 
 Journeying to the Holy Land, 
 Glove of steel upon the hand, 
 Cross of crimson on the breast? 
 
 Where the pomp of camp and court? 
 Where the pilgrims and their prayers? 
 Where the merchants with their wares, 
 And their gallant brigantines 
 Sailing safely into port 
 Chased by corsair Algerines? 
 
 Vanished like a fleet of cloud, 
 Like a passing trumpet blast 
 Are those splendors of the past, 
 And the commerce and the crowd! 
 Fathoms deep beneath the seas 
 Lie the ancient wharves and quays, 
 Swallowed by the engulfing waves. 
 Silent streets and vacant halls, 
 Ruined roofs and towers and walls; 
 Hidden from all mortal eyes 
 Deep the sunken city lies: 
 Even cities have their graves! 
 
 This is an enchanted land! 
 Round the headlands far away 
 Sweeps the blue Salernian bay, 
 With its sickle of white sand; 
 Further still, and furthermost 
 On the dim discovered coast 
 Paestum with its ruins lies; 
 And its roses all in bloom 
 Seem to tinge the fatal skies 
 Of that lovely land of doom.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 17 
 
 On his terrace, high in air, 
 Nothing doth the good monk care 
 For such worldly themes as these; 
 From the garden just below 
 Little puffs of perfume blow, 
 And a sound is in his ears 
 Of the murmur of the bees 
 In the shining chestnut trees; 
 Nothing else he sees or hears. 
 All the landscape seems to swoon 
 In the happy afternoon; 
 Slowly o'er his senses creep 
 The encroaching waves of sleep; 
 And he sinks as sank the town, 
 Unresisting, fathoms down, 
 Into caverns cool and deep! 
 
 Walled about with drifts of snow. 
 Hearing the fierce north-wind blow, 
 Seeing all the landscape white, 
 And the river cased in ice, 
 Comes this memory of delight, 
 Comes this vision unto me 
 Of a long-lost Paradise, 
 In the land beyond the sea. 
 
 NAPLES, February 18, 1883. 
 
 Beautiful, clean Sorrento the home of the Sorrento 
 lemon. The drive was most picturesque, and the 
 people more so, and their manner of living, with 
 always an eye to the beautiful, brilliant coloring, and 
 romance. The shops are small and interesting. We 
 looked about a little. Sorrento is noted for a peculiar 
 hand-made lace, made in a convent here; Italian 
 baby ribbon, and inlaid wood, which are works of art. 
 We stopped at the Hotel Tramontano. Sorrento is 
 the birthplace of Torquato Tasso, the Italian poet. 
 We visited the room in which the poet was born, one of 
 the show places of the city. The town simply hangs
 
 18 A LINE A DAY 
 
 on a rock overlooking the Mediterranean. Here the 
 people are cleanly, move about more quietly, and on 
 the whole are very much more refined than elsewhere. 
 One hears charming voices there are many street 
 singers here and not any beggars. This is very 
 noticeable, as Italy is noted for its beggars. 
 
 There are many pretty villas here, and beautiful 
 Italian gardens, but all these do not appeal to us like 
 these hotels hanging here on the rock, with the 
 wonderful blue water below. The sky seems to fairly 
 blend with the water. I fancy anyone could write 
 who lived here awhile. In the distance we can see the 
 roof of the villa belonging to the American novelist, 
 Francis Marion Crawford. 
 
 From here we take a small boat to go to the Island of 
 Capri. 
 
 Capri is a huge rock. Nearly two thousand years 
 ago Tiberius took refuge here, after his resignation as 
 Emperor of Rome. He came with a portion of his 
 army and built twelve castles, one for each of his 
 eleven gods and one for himself, the ruins of which 
 still stand. From here on a clear day it is possible to 
 see Naples, Sorrento, Castel Maggiore. We visited 
 the ruins of the baths of Tiberius, three thousand feet 
 above sea level, accessible to travelers only by means 
 of donkeys. 
 
 The streets of Capri are very narrow, in fact they 
 are mere paths. The vendors sell wares of all kinds 
 from donkeys' backs. The ladies of fashion ride in 
 two-wheeled carts drawn by very small burros or 
 little Italian ponies. These Italian ponies are very 
 fat, with funny little short legs, long manes and tails, 
 long necks, and very curious little heads. The Island 
 of Capri has no telephone or telegraph offices, and no 
 street cars, the only place like it in the world. Physi- 
 cians from all parts of the globe send their patients 
 here to convalesce. There is a very comfortable 
 hotel, called the Quisiciana. Here also is the wonder-
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 19 
 
 ful estate of Krupp, the German gun-manufacturer. 
 It is a beautiful, reposeful spot. 
 
 We have spent three days here, including New 
 Year's Eve. We wished the old year out and the new 
 year in with a bottle of the famous old Capri wine. 
 We are leaving Capri for Naples, which we consider 
 home. It is a very rough crossing, and a very choppy 
 sea, three hours over. We receive our first American 
 mail on our arrival. We rest a couple of days and 
 are then ready for a drive around the city. 
 
 We visited the museum and the aquarium. Here 
 I saw my first live octopus. It is a huge creepy 
 monster, horrible to behold, with legs angling in every 
 direction. The aquarium in Naples is the finest in 
 the world. There are funny little horse fish here, 
 just the shape of a horse, with queer little tails; also 
 trunk-fish, in the exact form of a trunk, with a most 
 curious little head and tail; and an air fish, which 
 blows itself up to a huge size, and then gradually 
 dwindles down again to the size of a mere minnow. 
 
 After once more making our baggage into small 
 bundles we are leaving Naples for Rome, on a most 
 extraordinary little tramway. One feels sorry for the 
 engine and the stingy little coaches. 
 
 After being bumped almost to death, we at last 
 arrive in Rome, the Eternal City, with its seven 
 hundred and forty-two churches, each one finer than 
 the other. Rome is built on seven hills, every spot of 
 which is rich in historic associations. After having 
 been destroyed three times by fire, and in wars with 
 other nations, she stands today all glorious, a clean, 
 modern metropolis a city of art, containing many, 
 many treasures that are priceless ; three great churches 
 the principal one St. Peter's, in the Vatican garden. 
 It is a rich, beautiful edifice, with its paintings, 
 splendid marbles, and wonderful sculptured figures. 
 The tomb of St. Peter, in gold and bronze, with 
 candles burning before it all the time; the high altar, 
 in bronze and gold, draped in matchless Venetian
 
 20 ALINEADAY 
 
 Point lace; the tombs of the many popes, long since 
 passed to the great beyond all forms so massive, so 
 grand, so stately a picture that it strikes one with awe, 
 mingled with grief that such fabulous wealth should be 
 squandered on this place, with such dreadful poverty 
 on every hand. The church was started about the 
 twelfth century, and has been rebuilt several times. 
 
 ST. PETER'S CATHEDRAL 
 
 In front of the church is the Piazza San Pietro, or 
 St. Peter's Square, in the form of an ellipse, enclosed 
 by a stately colonnade. In the center of the square is 
 an obelisk, brought from the ruins of Heliopolis, 
 centuries ago, and placed in its present location in 
 1586. To the left and right of this monument are two 
 handsome fountains, dating from the Sixteenth cen- 
 tury. On the balustrade at the top of the colonnade 
 are sixteen statues of saints. 
 
 This cathedral, the seat of Roman Catholic 
 Christendom, was founded by Constantine the Great, 
 over the grave of the Apostle Peter, supposedly in 
 326. In 1452, the building having fallen into dis- 
 repair, Pope Nicholas V., decided to rebuild it from 
 designs by a noted Florentine architect. 
 
 From this date until 1626, the building progressed 
 slowly under various pontiffs, and the original plans 
 were frequently changed, as the work was entrusted 
 to different architects. The most famous of them all 
 was Michael Angelo. His greatest achievement was 
 the dome, which is a marvel of lightness, in spite of its 
 enormous size. He did not live to see it completed, 
 but left plans and drawings, by means of which other 
 architects were enabled to carry out his design. 
 
 The building was finally consecrated by Pope 
 Urban VIII., on the eighteenth of November, 1626, 
 the alleged thirteen hundredth anniversary of its 
 foundation. The last architect was Bernini, who 
 constructed the colonnade surrounding the Piazza. 
 The area of the church is eighteen hundred square
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 21 
 
 yards, and the height of the dome is four hundred and 
 thirty-seven feet. 
 
 The facade, with its Corinthian columns and pillars, 
 is approached by a stately flight of steps. From the 
 balcony over the main entrance, it was customary at 
 Easter time for the pope to bestow his benediction on 
 the city and the whole world. In the richly decorated 
 portico are two statues of Charlemagne and 
 Constantine the Great, respectively. Columns of 
 colored marble separate the five doors of the church. 
 The Brazen Doors of the main entrance date from the 
 Fifteenth century, while the one furthest right, the 
 Porta Santa, or Holy Portal, is only opened on the 
 occasions of Jubilee, once every twenty-five years. 
 
 The interior is impressive, not only by its vast 
 size, but the admirable symmetry of its proportions. 
 On the pavement of the nave is a slab of porphyry 
 that formerly lay before the high altar in the ancient 
 church, and upon which many famous emperors 
 knelt to receive their diadems, among them 
 Charlemagne, who was crowned in 800, the first 
 ruler of the Holy Roman Empire of the West. By 
 the first two pillars are two large holy water basins. 
 St. Peter's contained very few pictures, and most of 
 them have been replaced by mosaics. Near the 
 fourth pillar to the right is the sitting statue of St. 
 Peter, in bronze, said to date from the Fifth century. 
 The right foot has been worn smooth by the kisses of 
 devotees. 
 
 The mighty dome soaring heavenward over the high 
 altar, and the crypt, where the body of the Apostle 
 lies, floods the whole interior with light. The four 
 huge pillars supporting it are adorned with statues 
 of the various saints, and mosaics of the evangelists. 
 The sixteen ribs of the dome are of richly gilded stucco, 
 and in the spaces between are four series of mosaics 
 representing the Savior, the Virgin, the Apostles, and 
 at the top, God the Father. 
 
 The magnificent high altar, at which the pope alone
 
 22 ALINEADAY 
 
 reads mass, was consecrated in 1594, and over 
 it is a splendidly gilded tabernacle, surmounted 
 by a dome and a cross, designed by Bernini. In 
 front of the high altar is the Confessio, en- 
 closed by a balustrade, with eighty-seven lamps 
 that burn eternally, into which a double staircase 
 descends to the , gilded bronze doors of the crypt 
 where the body of St. Peter rests. Between the two 
 flights of steps is a statue of Pius VI in prayer, by the 
 comparatively modern sculptor, Canova. The nave 
 extends beyond the dome, ending in the tribune, 
 containing the bronze throne which encloses the 
 ancient wooden episcopal chair of St. Peter. In the 
 various chapels are the tombs of the different pontiffs, 
 some simple, others magnificent. 
 
 The left transept contains confessionals for ten 
 different languages. By the pillar of Santa Veronica, 
 on the left, is the elevated seat from which the Grand 
 Penitentiary dispenses absolution on high festivals. 
 The remains of one of the earliest Italian composers, 
 Palestrina, repose in a plain tomb, in front of the high 
 altar. A gray marble portal leads to the sacristy, 
 containing paintings by Giotto, fragments of once 
 beautiful frescoes and the Treasury. 
 
 The choir chapel is richly decorated with gilt and 
 stucco, and grand musical festivals are frequently 
 held on Sundays. An extensive view may be obtained 
 from the dome, and of the interior from the galleries, 
 inside the vaulting. 
 
 The comparison between this dazzling splendor and 
 the dreadful, sordid poverty of the deluded wretches 
 who have crawled in the dust for centuries to build and 
 sustain it, the helpless prey of the crafty, unscrupu- 
 lous priests, who take advantage of their ignorance 
 and superstition, which they take care to foster and 
 encourage, to extort their few miserable pennies, on 
 one pretext or another: this comparison, even in the 
 midst of so much grandeur, cannot but entail sad and 
 painful reflections.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 23 
 
 St. Paul's is another very beautiful church, more 
 modern and not nearly so massive as St. Peter's. It is 
 out of the city about a mile and a half, erected on the 
 spot where St. Paul was decapitated. We drove out 
 by the same old road along which he passed. The 
 church has forty-two granite pillars, and two hundred 
 and forty-five magnificent mosaic medallions, each 
 one of which cost between five and six thousand 
 dollars. It was first built in the Sixteenth century, 
 and has been destroyed and rebuilt during the last 
 two hundred years, but is not completed yet. 
 
 THE VATICAN 
 
 Adjoining the cathedral, the Supreme Pontiff, the 
 Vicar of Christ on earth, is housed in a splendid 
 palace containing some thousand rooms and apart- 
 ments and twenty courts. The greater part of the 
 building, however, is taken up by state apartments 
 and priceless collections of works of art, ancient and 
 modern. 
 
 Among the most noteworthy is the Sistine Chapel, 
 with the ceiling painted by Michael Angelo, depicting 
 the Creation, the Fall, and the Hope of Redemption. 
 On the altar wall is the colossal Last Judgment, by 
 the same artist, which is now badly blackened by 
 incense. Other rooms are adorned with frescoes 
 which are among the finest productions of the great 
 Raphael. Among the treasures of the Vatican is 
 Raphael's Tapestry, executed in Brussels, from 
 designs drawn by Raphael, in 1515. It is now 
 much faded, and was originally intended to cover 
 the lower walls of the Sistine Chapel. 
 
 The picture gallery contains but few pictures but 
 some of them are superb. The Collection of Antiqui- 
 ties is the finest in the world, and occupies many 
 apartments. There is an Egyptian collection, and an 
 Etrurian Museum, containing bronzes, pottery, do- 
 mestic utensils, terra cotta statuary, from ancient
 
 24 A LINE A DAY 
 
 Etruria, the modern Tuscany, where Florence has 
 long been the seat of Italian culture. 
 
 Greek sculptors of all ages, from the Archaic to the 
 Golden, are represented. Among the most famous 
 works are the beautiful Apollo Belvedere, the bust of 
 Jupiter, from Otricoli, the well known Discobolus, or 
 Discus Thrower, and the celebrated Laocoon group, 
 so enthusiastically admired by Michael Angelo. 
 
 The Vatican gardens are delightful, with graveled 
 walks, green lawns, dotted with statuary, and the deep 
 refreshing shade of the beautiful old trees. 
 
 THE DOUBLE DOME 
 
 The octagonal double dome of the Duomo, or 
 cathedral, is one of the wonders of Florence, and its 
 construction by the noted architect Brunelleschi, in 
 the Fifteenth century, marked the beginning of a new 
 era in architecture. Apparently without any support, 
 the two domes tower gracefully some three hundred 
 feet, one inside the other, with space enough between 
 for a passage way. 
 
 When the plans were submitted, the architect was 
 thought to be mad, and he only triumphed after 
 innumerable difficulties: bickerings and petty jeal- 
 ousy of incompetent rivals, disappointments, lack of 
 money, and strikes among his workmen. The dome 
 was the first of its kind ever built, and was considered 
 an impossible feat. The finest domes prior to this, that 
 of the Pantheon, and St. Sophia, at Constantinople, 
 had been designed for their interior effect alone; but 
 this, with its graceful ribs, is almost more beautiful 
 seen from without, as it rises high over all the adjacent 
 buildings. 
 
 The ribs and lower part are of hewn stone, the 
 upper part of a lighter quality, the thickness of the 
 walls diminishing as they approach the graceful 
 lantern which crowns it. 
 
 At one time the architect, noticing the time lost 
 by the artisans in descending for their meals, placed 
 cooking stalls in the dome itself. Only wine diluted
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 25 
 
 with water was allowed to go up, however, owing to 
 the danger of serious fatalities when the workmen 
 were in a too jovial mood. 
 
 When designs were submitted for the lantern, in a 
 public contest, after endless disputes, they decided to 
 accept the plan of the man who would prove his 
 ability by standing an egg erect on a marble slab. 
 All tried and failed, until it came the turn of 
 Brunelleschi, whom they were all trying to defeat. He 
 succeeded; the other competitors, deeply chagrined, 
 declared they could have done as much. 
 
 "Doubtless," retorted the architect, "as you could 
 build another church, after seeing my dome!" 
 
 The first stone was laid about 1420, and the cathe- 
 dral was consecrated in 1467. It is the crowning glory 
 of "Firenze la Bella," Florence the Beautiful, or, as 
 the city is more often designated, the Lily of the 
 Arno, from the lilies in the Florentine coat of arms. 
 
 The principal drive of Rome is by the Corso and the 
 Piazza to Pincion Hill, the newest and most beautiful 
 residence district of Rome. A portion of this hill, the 
 lovely grounds, and public park once belonged to the* 
 influential Borghese family. Napoleon's favorite 
 sister, Pauline, married Prince Camillo Borghese. 
 The Art Gallery was open. It is filled with original 
 and interesting works of art the paintings of Van 
 Dyke, Rembrandt, Michael Angelo, and others. 
 
 We stopped at the Excelsior Hotel, across the street 
 from the royal palace. The shops are very small, but 
 stocked with noveltes. We bought some silver 
 filagree work in this city, where one gets the finest in 
 the world. Rome is noted for its beautiful work in 
 silver, as well as marbles, bronzes, and paintings. We 
 visited a large church in Rome, known as the Church 
 of St. Augusta, where mothers come to pray to the 
 Holy Virgin to increase their families. 
 
 There are always many women here, kissing the foot 
 of St. Augusta, giving her presents, and their few 
 miserable pennies. St. Augusta is a very stately
 
 26 ALINEADAY 
 
 statue, seated in a chair of bronze, holding a little gold 
 infant in her arms. She is a very rich lady, having 
 many costly gifts adorning her neck and arms, mostly 
 jewelry, while a little money box to the right helps to 
 keep the priests fat and sleek. The following story is 
 told of St. Augusta: A mother was in great anxiety 
 and prayed to be delivered let any believe this who 
 will when St. Augusta spoke, saying to her, "Go 
 home; your baby will be born to you in a very short 
 time!" And in a short time the baby came into the 
 world, and all was well. This is why St. Augusta is so 
 popular with about-to-be mothers. 
 
 We leave today for Florence. The weather is rainy, 
 but warm. We are most anxious to see what Florence 
 is like. We will stop at the Grand Hotel de la Ville. 
 We find Florence delightfully interesting so quiet, 
 so clean, and so artistic. Here I feel my first tinge of 
 homesickness. W 7 e rest one day, and I find myself 
 in fancy traveling back home. Antiquated in every 
 way is Florence. There is more true art, more 
 genuine culture and refinement here than in any other 
 city in Italy. It has the largest cathedral in the 
 world of purely Gothic design throughout espe- 
 cially noted for its wonderful double dome.* They 
 were conducting a service when we visited it, singing 
 weird chants and burning myriads of candles, making 
 the place most impressive. 
 
 Across the street is the Baptistry. The wonderful 
 bronze doors are the most beautiful in the world. Th > 
 oldest, executed by Andrea Pisano, dating from 1330, 
 is composed of twenty-eight panels in relief, the first 
 twenty of which depict in exquisite workmanship the 
 life of John the Baptist from his birth to the presenta- 
 tion of his head on a salver to Salome, the daughter of 
 Herodias. The eight lower panels represent the 
 cardinal virtues. 
 
 The second door (the north portals), executed in the 
 years from 1403 to 1424, is the work of the Florentine 
 goldsmith, Ghiberti. The twenty upper panels 
 
 *See Addenda
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 27 
 
 illustrate the life of the Savior, and the eight lower 
 ones represent the four evangelists with their symbols. 
 The workmanship is much superior to the first door. 
 
 The east portals occupied Ghiberti during the last 
 years of his life, and represent scenes from the Old 
 Testament some of the most marvelous pictures 
 ever cast in bronze. Michael Angelo said they were 
 beautiful enough to be the portals of Paradise. 
 
 The streets of Florence are very narrow, mere 
 alleys, but they are very clean, and give the place 
 a quaint picturesque appearance in every detail. 
 Small shops everywhere, of every kind, on every side. 
 We visited the mosaic factory, where they make 
 beautiful mosaics of precious stones, shells, marble, 
 etc. They inlay these mosaics in black marble. It is 
 very effective. They design roses, lilies-of-the-valley, 
 morning glories, figures of people, dancing scenes, etc. 
 These are costly table tops, of every size. 
 
 We have had a ride in the park, and a most delight- 
 ful one. One sees many splendid horses here, mostly 
 brought from Russia. Very much larger horses are 
 used here for driving than in any other country. I am 
 told it is for show, large horses being so much more 
 attractive, and making so much more noise. They 
 do not give such good service as the smaller horses. 
 One sees a few automobiles, mostly Fiats and Renaults. 
 There are many handsome Italian women here, but 
 the men just seem to hang about, and slouch along, 
 until one gets lonesome for the sight of a man with 
 the American stir and hustle. All Florence seems to 
 turn out on Sunday, on the Piazza, di Strozzi. The 
 silver shops here are quite as interesting as those of 
 Rome. We had made to order a hand carved fish set, 
 which we hope to use and enjoy for many years to 
 come, as we are both so fond of fish. The lace shops 
 on every side fascinate me beyond words. Last, and 
 most beautiful of all, Mr. Middleton has given me for 
 my birthday a Carrara Marble bust of himself, life 
 size, for which he sat one hour each dav for two
 
 28 ALINE A DAY 
 
 weeks. I go with him to keep him company, and find 
 it most enjoyable. We had a ride to Michael Angelo 
 Square a most lovely cultivated spot, overlooking 
 Florence, where a large and artistic monument stands, 
 adorned with five of his best figures his David, 
 Night and Day, Dawn and Twilight, superb figures, 
 two men and two women, very muscular, as are all 
 of the works of this great artist and sculptor. 
 
 The Uffizi Gallery, built in the Fourth century, 
 with additions made in the Thirteenth and Sixteenth, 
 contains a splendid collection of masterpeices of 
 painting and sculpture. Here stands the famous 
 Venus di Medici, considered by many connoisseurs of 
 art more perfect and more beautiful than the Venus de 
 Milo. Madonnas by the old masters are beautifully 
 hung in a room by themselves; another room is 
 devoted to Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyke, etc. 
 French, German, Spanish and Italian painters are 
 paid every compliment. Their own portraits, painted 
 by themselves, are hung in a very large room. 
 
 The celebrated Pitti Gallery was once a private 
 home, built by Luca Pitti, in an effort to outshine the 
 Medici family, the rulers of Florence in that day. 
 But after he had built and completed this wonderful 
 palace, Cosmo di Medici sent him word to sell it to 
 him at once, or he would take it. It has ever since 
 belonged to royalty, and is now the home of the present 
 king when in Florence, and is an Art Gallery as well. 
 We visited the church of San Lorenzo where Michael 
 Angelo's famous statues of Night, Day, Dawn and 
 Twilight adorn the tombs of the two young princes 
 Lorenzo and Giuliano di Medici. To understand the 
 four figures it must be remembered that in Italian, 
 Night and Dawn are feminine, Day and Twilight 
 masculine. "Night" is considered by many connois- 
 suers to be one of the greatest works of art of all 
 time. The sight of that profound, yet breathing 
 slumber involuntarily imposes silence on the beholder. 
 It seems as though a loud noise would waken her.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 29 
 
 It is the sleep of Sorrow, while Dawn rises slowly and 
 heavily the awakening of grief. The male figures are 
 majestic in Michael Angelo's ponderously beautiful 
 style. The groups were originally intended to express 
 the profound grief for the death of the two young 
 princes, but in the course of political events the 
 statues were associated in the minds of the great 
 sculptor and his countrymen with the loss of Florentine 
 liberty. This is evident from the inscription he 
 attached to the figure of Night : " I sleep, and it is well 
 that I am of stone, since shame and dishonor are in the 
 midst of us." 
 
 We bid good-bye to Florence. It has a strange 
 fascination for both of us. We can truthfully say 
 that we hope to return some day. 
 
 We leave tomorrow morning for Venice. It is 
 snowing in Florence as we pack. We had seen the 
 snow all around the city, on the mountains, but today 
 it is our guest the first for sixteen years they say. 
 Leaving Florence for Venice we travel all day through 
 a very pretty country, with small farmhouses on the 
 hills, or young mountains. Two hours before reaching 
 the city we find water on each side of us, and soon we 
 see the vague outlines of Venice in the distance. We 
 arrived, were put in a gondola an exquisite master- 
 piece of handcarving, but oh, so uncomfortable and so 
 dirty! Just plain dirt, in true Venetian style. We 
 reached our hotel it took one hour, in the cold, raw 
 night. We were huddled together; very little was 
 said, as it was so chilly and a cold yellow moon peeped 
 out, trying to warm up our romantic spirits. After 
 splashing through the cold water, bobbing first to one 
 side and then to the other, we arrived at our hotel 
 the Bauer and Grumald. We discovered that our 
 gondolier was full of red Chianti, and had an assistant 
 equally so. They sang not a note, only begged for 
 more money. They were overpaid forty cents. We 
 found the hotel fairly comfortable if a European 
 hotel can be comfortable.
 
 30 ALINEADAY 
 
 We started out to see Venice next morning. This 
 city is built entirely over the water, on piles driven 
 into the sandy bottom of the Adriatic Sea. It dates 
 back to 350 B. C. The pages of its history are red 
 with crime, positively written in blood. All artistic 
 charm is lost when one reads and hears of so many 
 barbarous acts. The cathedral of St. Mark is a 
 beautiful example of Byzantine architecture. It is 
 in the form of a Greek cross, with five domes, and 
 mosaics dating from the Fifth to the Sixteenth cen- 
 turies. The bones of St. Mark are said to rest under 
 the high altar of gold, brought from Alexandria, Egypt, 
 in 857. 
 
 Napoleon I, the King of Spain, Don Carlos, and 
 many other famous personages, including Lord Byron 
 and Browning, have had homes on this Grand Canal, 
 the boulevard of Venice. These dwellings are in 
 typical Venetian style; the automobile is the gondola 
 and the street car the steamboat. While here we saw 
 a funeral on the water. 
 
 The Doge's Palace contains many masterpieces of 
 art paintings, statuary, and the famous golden stairs. 
 They are not of gold, but of marble, designed by 
 Sannino. They received the name of the golden 
 stairs from the fact that only royalty walked on them 
 in the early days. The history of this palace fairly 
 reeks in crime, cloaked by religion. 
 
 THE DUCAL PALACE 
 
 The palace of the Doges is a beautiful example of 
 Gothic architecture, built mainly of rose and white 
 marble. There are graceful arcades on the first and 
 ground floors. All the capitals are in exquisite taste 
 and endless variety. Not one is a repetition. On one 
 of the facades of the second gallery are two columns of 
 red marble, marking the place where sentences of 
 death were read. The courtyard is entered through 
 a very ornate door, and we ascend by the Golden 
 Stairs, or the Giants' Staircase, so called from two
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 31 
 
 colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, standing on 
 pedestals at the top of the flight. 
 
 The immense hall of the Grand Council contains 
 a gigantic picture, "Paradise," by Tintoretto, the 
 largest picture in the world. This splendid painting 
 covers an entire wall, but the once brilliant coloring is 
 sadly darkened by time. Paintings representing 
 episodes in the history of Venice and portraits of all 
 the Doges adorn the walls. In one corner is a black 
 and empty frame that once held the portrait of 
 Marino Faliero, beheaded in the courtyard below for 
 treason to the republic. In the Hall of the Shield the 
 coat of arms of the ruling Doge was emblazoned. The 
 walls are hung with curious geographical charts 
 illustrating the discoveries of Marco Polo, and other 
 noted Venetian explorers. The waiting room of the 
 ambassadors contains four great paintings by 
 Tintoretto, and one of the finest works of the great 
 Paolo Caliari of Verona, and commonly called Paolo 
 Veronese. This is the "Rape of Europa," a mytho- 
 logical subject, showing the abduction of Europa by 
 Jupiter, disguised as a bull. In this same apartment is 
 the "Marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne," one of the 
 most admired works of Tintoretto, and showing the 
 influence of Titian. 
 
 In the Salla della Bussola, from the bussola, or 
 screen, that stood before one of the main doors, is the 
 slit once covered by the lion's head, into the mouth of 
 which denunciations were placed. It was the letter box 
 of the dreaded Council of Ten, and is an important 
 feature in Ponchielli's beautiful opera "La Gioconda." 
 
 In the archeological museum is a varied and interest- 
 ing collection of Roman antiquities, bronzes, gold 
 coins, and Greek pottery. This part of the palace was 
 once occupied by the private rooms of the Doges, and 
 recent alterations have disclosed two secret staircases 
 leading to the alcove where the bed was placed. At 
 the head and foot are two panels which could be 
 opened, should it be deemed necessary to spy on the
 
 32 ALINEADAY 
 
 movements of the ruler of the Most Serene Republic. 
 
 A narrow passage leads to the famous Bridge of 
 Sighs, uniting the Palace to the gloomy and unwhole- 
 some prison, where so many luckless malefactors and 
 political prisoners perished. 
 
 In Venice there are almost a hundred churches. 
 Among the most beautiful, after the celebrated 
 Byzantine cathedral of St. Mark, which I have 
 described elsewhere, is the church of Santa Maria 
 della Salute, Our Lady of Health, built to commemo- 
 rate the cessation of the plague in the Seventeenth 
 century. Of course, as Ruskin says, it is dedicated to 
 the Virgin, to whom the modern Italian has recourse 
 in all his principal distresses, and who usually receives 
 his gratitude for all his principal deliverances. This 
 is one of the most imposing edifices in Venice, and the 
 airy dome, rising from the misty sea, is the first 
 thing to be discerned by the approaching traveler. 
 It contains a fine altar piece, some beautiful candel- 
 abra, and some fine paintings by Titian. 
 
 On the quay are the two huge granite columns, 
 brought from Constantinople, on one of which is the 
 winged Lion of St. Mark, the emblem of Venice, and 
 on the other St. Theodore, another patron saint, 
 slaying a crocodile. 
 
 The Rialto is the finest bridge in Venice, and spans 
 the canal with a single bold and elegant curve. Two 
 rows of shops, separated by an arcaded portico, occupy 
 the sides of the bridge, which is almost ninety feet 
 wide. Some of the oldest houses in Venice are in this 
 vicinity, where there is an endless tumult of shipping 
 and gondolas, and small craft drying their gaudy sails. 
 
 Every type of architecture is represented by the 
 time-honored palaces that line the Grand Canal, their 
 once brilliant coloring dimmed by time, and stained 
 by the waves Gothic, Roman, Greek, Byzantine, 
 Saracen and Rococo. This canal is a picture gallery 
 in the open, where the art of seven or eight centuries is 
 spread out before the traveler.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD S3 
 
 Here is the Ca' d'Oro, short for Casa d'Oro, or 
 House of Gold, the front all embroidered and laced 
 with open stone work, in patterns of inconceivable 
 lightness. Another is the Vendramini Palace, where 
 Richard Wagner died in 1883. The interior contains 
 many precious and beautiful marbles. The Mocenigo 
 Palace, where Byron, that ardent lover of Venice, lived 
 in 1818; and the Palazzo Rezzonico, where Robert 
 Browning died in 1889. Many of these noble monu- 
 ments of a glorious past are now hotels or municipal 
 buildings. Most of the famous Venetian families are 
 extinct. Of the nine hundred patrician families 
 inscribed in the Golden Book, only some fifty remain. 
 
 In days of old a curious and gorgeous ceremony was 
 performed every year, when the doge went forth in a 
 magnificent gallery called the Bucentaur, to cast a gold 
 ring into the waters of the Adriatic, thus espousing the 
 sea in the name of the Republic. 
 
 Venice! Venice! When thy marble walls 
 Are level with the waters, there shall be 
 
 A cry of nations o'er thy sunken halls, 
 A loud lament along the sweeping sea! 
 
 In Venice Tasso's echoes are no more, 
 And silent rows the songless gondolier; 
 
 Her palaces are crumbling to the shore, 
 And music meets not always now the ear. 
 
 Those days are gone but Beauty is still here: 
 States fall, arts fade but Nature doth not die, 
 
 Nor yet forget that Venice once was dear 
 The pleasant place of all festivity, 
 The revel of the earth the masque of Italy! 
 
 LORD BYRON. 
 
 Today is my birthday, January thirtieth. Somehow 
 or other, of all the days that come and go, I never lay 
 claim to any, or feel that it is my very own, save this 
 one. We are now on the train, enroute to Genoa. It is
 
 34 A LINE A DAY 
 
 a rainy Sunday. We land at Genoa in a pouring rain. 
 It has rained all day Monday we are waterbound and 
 have not been able to see anything of the small city. 
 
 Genoa, called of old "the Superb," occupies a 
 splendid site on sunny slopes rising from the shores of 
 the Mediterranean in a wide semicircle, and is the most 
 important seaport of Italy. It is the seat of a well- 
 known university, an archbishopric, and is also the 
 headquarters of the Fourth Italian Army corps. It is 
 one of the oldest seaports on the Mediterranean, and 
 first came into political prominence after overthrowing 
 the naval power of Pisa in the Thirteenth century. By 
 her activity in the Crusades, Genoa built up a busy 
 trade with the countries of the Orient, established 
 important settlements in Syria, Cyprus, Constanti- 
 nople, etc., and even threatened the commercial 
 supremacy of Venice in the Adriatic until defeated by 
 the Venetians, under the famous Carlo Zeno and 
 Vettoro Pisani, in the battle of Chioggia, in 1380. 
 
 For many years the government was a republic, 
 under an elective Doge, like her great rival Venice, but 
 her power steadily declined during the endless civil 
 and foreign wars that followed up to the earlier years 
 of the Nineteenth century. The city is interesting to 
 Americans as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. 
 In the center of the town is his statue. It is easy to 
 understand Columbus being restless, and desirous of 
 discovering something else than this dirty little Italian 
 village. 
 
 From Genoa to Nice and the Riviera proper is a 
 most delightful trip, along the Mediterranean coast, 
 with Mentone, Grasse, Cannes, Monte Carlo, Bellevue, 
 Villa Francaise, and many, many other charming 
 villages built at the foot of the mountains. Nice and 
 Monte Carlo are the most beautiful. We went to live 
 at the Hermitage Hotel, a comfortable place in a 
 charming spot, on a mountain overlooking the 
 Mediterranean. We are so glad to stop and rest. 
 The weather is very pleasant, but one can wear heavy
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 85 
 
 clothing and furs with great comfort. There is an auto 
 running from the hotel to the city four times a day, 
 making it very convenient. 
 
 We joined a club, the Municipal Casino, the second 
 day in Nice. Another popular diversion is promenad- 
 ing each morning on the Promenade Anglaise, a very 
 interesting walk, about a mile and a half long. So 
 many people stroll here each morning: Americans, 
 Germans, Englishmen, Frenchmen, Italians, Rus- 
 sians, Bohemians, Hungarians, Indians, Japanese and 
 Negroes, making it the most cosmopolitan crowd in 
 the world, all walking along enjoying the surf in the 
 months of December, January, February and March. 
 Some of these people are in furs, wrapped as though 
 they were ready to freeze, others in summer hats and 
 white serge suits. One sees a variety of parasols, of 
 every color and style. They are a picture to look at 
 as they bob along. Of the dogs from every country, 
 the French poodle is without doubt the most beauti- 
 ful. Large dogs, small dogs, dogs with manners, fancy 
 blankets, leather and fur collars, jeweled collars, fancy 
 robes and muzzles of every description, belonging to 
 rich people from all over the world. They always 
 lead them on a leash. In all the parks and public 
 places is this notice: " Je vous prie, portez-vous votre 
 chien en lasso!" which always amused my husband 
 greatly. 
 
 Nice is a small place, and quite old, dating back 
 some three hundred and sixty years. It is situated 
 at the foot of the Maritime Alps, protected by them 
 from the severe cold in winter, but I imagine it to be 
 the hottest place on earth in summer. We have had 
 a beautiful drive to Flacon, an old village up in the 
 mountains, over a charming road, winding round 
 many picturesque curves. We took this drive in a 
 gorgeous blue satin lined carriage, with a spanking 
 pair of horses. We felt quite king-y and queen-y. 
 
 Flacon is a small village. An old castle stands here
 
 36 ALINEADAY 
 
 where Napoleon I lived at the time he built the lower 
 Cornice Road for his army. 
 
 The shops are splendid. Nice and Monte Carlo are 
 the homes of the original toilettes. In reality, the 
 season starts here. One sees well groomed women on 
 every occasion. 
 
 Monte Carlo is the garden spot of the world. It is a 
 small strip of land owned by the Prince of Monaco and 
 is called a principality and lies between Italy and 
 France. One might describe it better by saying that it 
 is a garden a flower garden, at the foot of the moun- 
 tains, made perfect by man's hand. The principal streets 
 are veritable flower beds, with lovely flowers of every 
 description, and borders of every imaginable shape, 
 lighted at night with colored electric lights, making 
 it indeed very effective. The few shops, the many 
 hotels, and the gambling clubs make up this city of so 
 much comment. People from all over the world come 
 here. Beautiful women in their original toilettes and 
 rich men complete the place. 
 
 We go from Nice to Monte Carlo several times a 
 week, and always enjoy it. We attended a fashionable 
 Aux Tirs de Petit Pigeon, or pigeon shoot, a very 
 popular event. Pretty women and titled men make 
 up the select crowd. Lord and ladies, counts and 
 countesses, marquis and marquises, barons and 
 baronesses, were among the attendants. The admis- 
 sion is $10 each. However, all these people seem to be 
 just human looking. I did not see one lord or count 
 half as handsome as my own king. We have royalty at 
 our hotel the Archduke of Austria, uncle to the 
 present king of Spain, a marquis and his wife, and one 
 of the Rothschild multi-millionaires. I am taking a 
 French lesson every day, and am growing very home- 
 sick, and heartily tired of hotel cooking. My French 
 teacher and I are starting out to find a furnished 
 apartment. We have decided to stop here two 
 months, as it is cold and the floods are very bad in the 
 north.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 37 
 
 We have found an " appartement meuble neuf" 
 called "Le Grand Palais a cote du Majestique," 
 located on the Boulevard Cimez. It is a beautiful and 
 commodious building, handsomely furnished and 
 strictly up-to-date. It is built on a hill. I went 
 straight to the hotel to get Mr. Middleton and we 
 shall move at once. 
 
 FEBRUARY 21 
 
 We are packing, about to go to housekeeping in 
 France. We are delighted with the idea. It is great 
 fun to go to market and make all the purchases in 
 French. As I drive away from the hotel in the 
 victoria, I shall ever see myself in fancy, with eight 
 hat boxes and many, many bags and sacks. The 
 victoria is so small and the boxes so large that you 
 cannot see the driver and can hardly see me only the 
 four wheels. When we are about ten feet past Mr. 
 Middleton he calls out to me: "I will see you later!" 
 which struck me as being funny, since he could hardly 
 see me then at all. Then all the things began to burst 
 out of the corners of the boxes, which added to my 
 distress and embarrassment. 
 
 FEBRUARY 24 
 
 We are comfortably settled in our new apartment 
 and have a French cook, a real French cook and 
 such a noisy thing as a "real French cook" is! 
 
 But this must be the custom in France, because 
 when I say anything to her she invariably answers: 
 "C'est la contume en France, madame!" We have 
 four rooms in this apartment a lovely smoker, a 
 salle a manger, a chambre a coucher, a salle du bain, 
 a cuisine, a hall cabinet. It is beautifully furnished 
 and so complete. We shall take it quietly for a while. 
 We do not care for the theatres, as we do not like 
 some of the customs. For instance, they last until 
 one a. m.; they gamble between acts for an hour,
 
 38 ALINE A DAY 
 
 while you sit and wait for the actors to come back; 
 they all champ popcorn, and other eatables that 
 crackle during the performance, and every once in a 
 while some old brother with a deep voice screams out 
 "Bravo!" and one nearly jumps out of his skin. 
 
 There is a charming public park here, full of beauti- 
 full statuary and lovely palms, and cork trees, many 
 of them. I admired them greatly they are so crooked 
 and queer, with such an old bent look, and they grow 
 without a leaf. 
 
 A river runs right through the town and affords a 
 great deal of amusement to the tourists. A hundred 
 or more women wash here every day, and in a most 
 interesting way. They wash in tubs or boxes with 
 rocks in the bottoms of them, using a stiff brush or a 
 rock to pound the clothes. The river is a narrow 
 stream, and they work on their knees, grouped along, 
 one after another, four or five feet apart, even on the 
 coldest days. These women wash all day long, with a 
 cake of soap made especially for this water, which is 
 very hard, indeed. To my mind, this is a most 
 barbarous custom. The government of France should 
 be ashamed to allow these poor women to spend entire 
 days washing in this manner. I could not help 
 thinking of our self -run water motor washing machines, 
 so dear to the American housekeeper. 
 
 MARCH 30 
 
 We are all packed, after two months pleasantly 
 spent here, ready to proceed to Vienna. We have 
 planned a trip to Japan, to sail April twenty-sixth, 
 after a little of Germany, Holland, Paris and London. 
 We will sail from Southampton on the York, hoping 
 to reach home July first, at San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 Our last day in Nice. It is very cold and a heavy 
 snow lies on the surrounding mountains. The trunks 
 have just left and the apartment looks a wreck. \Ve 
 depart in the morning at ten o'clock for Germany, 
 hoping to have a clear day and a little warmer weather.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 39 
 
 We ride for two days and one night in a funny little 
 toy train with the dignified name of "de Luxe." We 
 pass over some beautiful country and through the 
 mountains into Austria, arriving at Vienna, pro- 
 nounced by the Germans Wien, which means " City of 
 Wine." There are many vineyards in this vicinity. 
 The city is very old, very classic, and very musical. 
 Many of our best professors of music come from 
 Vienna, as well as many eminent doctors and surgeons. 
 We have had a delightful ride around the city. The 
 weather is very spring-like, and all the people appear 
 to be working in their gardens or cleaning house. 
 The trees are budding and we have taken a new lease 
 on life. We begin to feel very much alive again. The 
 king's palace is an imposing edifice, with soldiers in 
 evidence everywhere. We attended the opera here 
 and heard " Chantecleer " in German a delightful 
 little thing, catchy and musical. On another evening 
 we attended the circus, where we saw a bull fight 
 between dogs and clowns. One dog was dressed to 
 represent a bull, with his head reversed the funniest 
 sight imaginable. 
 
 We stopped at the Bristol Hotel, on the principal 
 thoroughfare of the city. We see worlds of bronzes 
 here, gold plate, and metal sculptures, far too many 
 things to be enumerated. We go from here to Dresden, 
 the city of art and china. It is a day's run from Wien. 
 
 Dresden is a quaint little city, very up-to-date and 
 lively with so much manufacturing activity all 
 around porcelains, brass, copper and silverware. 
 The royal art gallery is as fine as those of Florence or 
 the Louvre; Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyke, Titian, 
 Murillo, Rafael, Guido Reni, are represented; also 
 Beanhes, a modern painter. Here we purchased some 
 bronzes, china and marbles. I enjoyed a delightful 
 visit to the old Dresden china factory. It was so 
 instructive. Here I bought some fancy work to 
 match the china. I am quite in love with Dresden. 
 After leaving this place we have one night to Berlin.
 
 40 ALINEADAY 
 
 Mr. Middleton gets along well with his little German. 
 It is so amusing to hear him labor with it. 
 
 BERLIN 
 
 We find a most charming city a modern city in 
 every way splendid buildings, churches galore, and 
 good hotels. We stopped at one of the most comfort- 
 able the Adlon, where we met Miss Himes and her 
 father, who were our chairmates on the Berlin coming 
 over. We dine and take a motor trip all over the city 
 and far into the country, where spring is beginning to 
 waken and sturdy old trees to bud out; lovely little 
 farmhouses, small farms and picturesque country 
 houses. A spirit of perfect contentment seems to 
 hover over the domestic life of the Germans. The 
 home life of the German is ideal he seems to live 
 only for his family, his wife coming first. He takes 
 his family to the restaurants with him, and they all sit 
 contentedly together, with a stein of beer and a piece 
 of coarse rye bread, even in the better cafes. You 
 will always find the German with his family so 
 commendable of the German. 
 
 We visited the palace of Frederick the Great at 
 Potsdam, also the historic mill. For two days after 
 returning to the hotel we had rainy weather and I was 
 glad to stay abed and eat my first civilized food. 
 Here we have the first grape fruit of the season. We 
 had this luxury once this winter at Nice, where we 
 paid forty cents for a very small one. We have 
 decided to go to Cologne, on the Rhine, a day's run 
 from here. 
 
 Cologne is a very quaint and primitive city, with 
 its stately cathedral built from 400 to 600 A. D., and 
 finally completed in 1880. The wonderful stained 
 glass windows were completed in the Sixth and 
 Eighth centuries. The art of coloring this glass was 
 lost long ago. The red and blue of these windows is 
 beyond description. In this edifice is treasured the 
 staff of St. Peter, and wood from the cross upon which
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 41 
 
 Jesus was crucified. The bones of the three wise men 
 are kept here in a little jewelled casket, which is opened 
 every seven years at certain ceremonies. There is 
 only one thing in Cologne the cathedral but it is 
 enough. In the quietude of this sacred spot one feels 
 so small and utterly lost in its grand immensity, and 
 marvels at its vastness and fabulous cost. 
 
 HOLLAND 
 
 We left our friends, the Himes, to go to Amsterdam 
 a day's journey. Holland is a country of work, 
 work, work. The people scrub to rest themselves. 
 Everybody is scrubbing and working. Here we have 
 the finest diamond cutting of the world, though at 
 present it does not amount to anything. We take a 
 trip by boat to Volendam and the Isle of Marken 
 the most primitive of all our experiences, and where 
 the populace still dress in the Dutch costume. I 
 purchased some Dutch bonnets. When we landed at 
 Marken, a child about three years old, a chubby little 
 girl, caught hold of Mr. Middleton's coat and followed 
 us up and down and all around, talking and laughing 
 all the time. Mr. Middleton was so embarrassed; his 
 face turned as red as could be; it was so amusing 
 everybody was laughing. Finally it dawned on him 
 to give her pennies to get rid of her she fairly jumped 
 with joy and held on the tighter. 
 
 We noticed some lads about ten years of age, very 
 bright Dutch boys, in the native costume, with the 
 Dutch haircut. They know a little English, which 
 they used to very poor advantage. They had posed 
 for various artists during the summer season. W 7 hen 
 a boat arrives they cry: "Good-by!" and when a 
 vessel leaves they call out "How d'ye do!" in a very 
 broken way, most diverting to hear. We saw here 
 some fine specimens of manhood tawny, muscular 
 men, almost giants. The majority of them are 
 fishermen fishing is the chief occupation here and 
 they go out to sea, leaving their families in Marken.
 
 42 ALINEADAY 
 
 Often they are gone for months at a time. Many of 
 them never return. But one is just as well off lost at 
 sea as living in Marken. 
 
 We have left Amsterdam for Brussels, Belgium, a 
 beautiful city. We visit the Exposition Grounds, 
 which are not complete as yet. We meet our friends, 
 Mr. and Miss Himes, again. We motored together to 
 Waterloo,* that historic battlefield where Napoleon 
 was finally defeated. 
 
 In Brussels we purchased some Holland China, the 
 decoration representing twelve geese running after 
 each other in a circle. Paris is a day's run from this 
 city. 
 
 APRIL 19 PARIS 
 
 What shall I say? Much or little? 
 The Louvre charmed me. I lived centuries in the 
 hours that I wandered there. 
 
 THE LOUVRE 
 
 Many volumes might be written on the master- 
 pieces in this treasure house of art. 
 
 Possibly the most celebrated of them all is the 
 incomparable Mona Lisa (The Joyful), sometimes called 
 La Gioconda, of Leonardo de Vinci, upon which that 
 artist labored four years and still declared it to be 
 unfinished. Mona Lisa is seated in a low chair, 
 leaning lightly upon one of the arms; the languorous 
 eyes seem about to close, the exquisite mouth is 
 curved in a mysterious smile. The hands are so well 
 molded that one can almost feel their warmth and 
 velvety softness. A fantastic landscape forms the 
 background. Much has been written, in poetry and 
 prose, about the Mona Lisa, but no one has yet 
 fathomed all the enigmas of that calm, sphinx-like 
 face. 
 
 No other painter before or since has interpreted the 
 beauty of women as perfectly as Titian. Witness the 
 portrait of the peerless Laura Dianti and Alfonso of 
 
 *See Addenda
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 43 
 
 Ferrara. The Duke, almost entirely in shadow, plays 
 the part of an attendant presenting the fair Laura 
 with a mirror. The dazzling face, with its brilliant 
 eyes, is turned slightly toward the glass, while she 
 gathers up her hair with a gesture of exquisite grace 
 tresses of the universally admired Titian red. The 
 low bodice, revealing the voluptuously rounded 
 shoulders, stands out against the dark background, 
 and one statuesque arm is admirably placed in the 
 shadowy fold of the sleeve. 
 
 Raphael is best represented by the famous La Belle 
 Jardiniere, where in a beautiful and varied landscape, 
 a tender-eyed, fair haired virgin bends toward the 
 Infant Jesus, who leans against her knee, while the 
 baby St. John, half kneeling, raises his eyes to the 
 future Savior in an attitude of adoration; also the 
 Virgin of the Blue Diadem, in which the beautiful 
 mother, with a graceful movement, raises the trans- 
 parent veil that covers the sleeping babe, while St. 
 John, with half-open mouth, seems to restrain the cry 
 of admiration about to escape his lips. In the back- 
 ground is a picturesque ruin in a misty landscape. 
 
 Here is one of the most lovely of the many Immacu- 
 late Conceptions painted by the Spanish artist, 
 Murillo. The divine apparition, with uplifted eyes, 
 ascends to heaven surrounded by adoring angels. 
 A silvery crescent in the clouds at her feet throws 
 luminous reflections on her trailing robe of blue and 
 white. Another great Spanish master, Velasquez, is 
 represented by numerous portraits of the royal family 
 of Spain he was Court Painter to Philip IV 
 especially the Infantas, in their monstrous dresses of 
 stiff brocade and their solemn, doll-like faces. 
 
 In this gallery are a number of works by that 
 greatest of all painters of children, Jean Baptiste 
 Greuze, notably the charming "Girl with the Broken 
 Pitcher." The girlish figure, clad in white, her lap 
 full of rosy blossoms, and a quaint pitcher of cracked
 
 44 A LINE A DAY 
 
 gray pottery over one arm, stands out against a dull 
 background. 
 
 One sees Van Dyke's noble likeness of the unfortu- 
 nate Charles I; some portraits by Madame Vigee- 
 Le Brun, particularly the dashing "Lady with the 
 Muff;" the beautiful sylvan scenes of Watteau, with 
 their dainty shepherds and shepherdesses, and the 
 lovely forests and landscapes of Corot, where sprightly 
 nymphs and fauns hold their revels. 
 
 Among many glorious masterpieces of sculpture, 
 the majestic Venus de Milo is enshrined, worshipped 
 as she ever has been and ever will be, by all admirers 
 of the beautiful. 
 
 In Paris we rented a motor day after day, and drove 
 out into the country. The many trees of the forests 
 are covered with a green moss, so pretty, and waving 
 so gracefully. The trees, the lawns, and the moss are 
 all of the most vivid green I have ever seen. 
 
 The City of Paris looks small and dirty to me. It 
 is very easy to find one's way about. The shops are 
 numerous, but very small. We stopped at the Conti- 
 nental Hotel. Here we encountered some American 
 friends. We have had dinner parties and theatre 
 parties. I have shopped up and down the alleys 
 here we dignify them by calling them La Rue de 
 1'Opera and other fancy names. 
 
 We motored out to Versailles,* the home of Louis 
 XIV, Louis XV, Louis XVI, Napoleon, and later 
 Louis XVIII. The gardens are very beautiful, and 
 the whole place extremely interesting. The rooms of 
 Marie Antoinette, Madame de Pompadour, and 
 Madame du Barri all had an irresistible attraction for 
 me. The royal stables were most interesting. They 
 were certainly very pompous, with gold mounted 
 harness, wonderful carriages, upholstered in handsome 
 brocades. The sleigh of Marie Antoinette is a dainty 
 thing, so gracefully built, with the dearest little 
 place to tuck her feet in. Such graceful shafts, and 
 
 *See Addenda
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 45 
 
 such a small seat for the footman it hardly looked 
 practical, but more like a toy. 
 
 Last of all, and most fascinating, is the home of 
 Napoleon and Josephine, the palace of Malmaison.* 
 It remains just as they left it, each room is undis- 
 turbed, and appears as it did when they lived there. 
 It is all strangely sad to me, with a moral to be 
 remembered : How strong one can be, yet how weak 
 how mighty today and how humble tomorrow! 
 
 We have spent days wandering around Paris, in and 
 out of the shops, up and down the boulevards, into the 
 art galleries, and to the smart places for tea the 
 Hotel Ritz, and Hummel's, which is the most fashion- 
 able resort for tea. Two people may get a whisk of 
 cake and a cup of tea for two dollars, but the show 
 that goes with it is worth the price, for here one 
 certainly sees the exclusive smart Parisian. 
 
 WE ARE LEAVING FOR LONDON 
 
 Dear old foggy, rainy London; but we have 
 enjoyed it all. We have had fair weather, and here, 
 for the first time, we have enjoyed a real grate fire. 
 Oh, so cheerful! We have shopped and driven all 
 over the city, have "done" Buckingham Palace, the 
 city residence of the present king, Westminster 
 Abbey, also the Embankment on the Thames. But 
 there is so much poverty in this great city, so many 
 poor little children dodging around, and half-clothed 
 women the kind one reads about in Dickens' novels. 
 His characters really live here. Each face reveals a 
 pitiful story of the struggle for existence. 
 
 We have tea every afternoon at some fashionable 
 resort, which is quite a la mode here, and have motored 
 through Hyde Park and Regent Park, where I bought 
 a riding hat. We are stopping at the Hotel Cecil. 
 We went to see "The Arcadians," a charming little 
 comic opera. We have enjoyed the first jokes of the 
 trip, and the music delighted us. The English accent 
 
 *See Addenda
 
 46 ALINEADAY 
 
 fascinates us both; it is as much as one can do to 
 understand it. Trafalgar Square is a beautiful place, 
 reminding us of the soldiers' Monument in 
 Indianapolis. We are packing up again to be off to 
 Southampton by rail, where we embark for Japan. 
 It is a lovely ride from London. It is thirteen thousand 
 miles to Yokohama, thirty-five hundred from New 
 York and four thousand to San Francisco, making a 
 total of twenty thousand five hundred miles which we 
 shall have traveled by water. We received a letter from 
 America from Mr. S. It made me jump with joy, it 
 was so thoughtful. 
 
 We take the train from London to Southampton, 
 a three hours' ride through a beautiful country, dotted 
 with numberless pretty country houses. The trees 
 are all in blossom, gardens are being made, and it is a 
 most refreshing picture of the other side of life, after 
 the busy city life of London. 
 
 APRIL 27 
 
 The boat York is a very comfortable-looking 
 vessel, three years old. It was named in honor of a 
 German general of the name of York, and was built 
 at a cost of $1,500,000. It is a very large boat, and 
 consumes about $500 worth of coal a day. We make 
 from fifteen to eighteen knots an hour. 
 
 The captain is a fat German, and the greater part of 
 the crew are Germans, with the exception of a few 
 Chinamen. Like all seamen, the gallant captain is 
 very jolly and good natured and speaks fairly good 
 English. 
 
 We embarked six miles out, and were taken to the 
 ship on the tug, Her Majesty. This harbor is a 
 picture here are many boats of all sizes, including a 
 number of war vessels, which are here for the purpose 
 of transporting soldiers to India and other countries. 
 
 The first day out we are fairly comfortable; it is 
 cold, but the sea is quite smooth. There are many 
 Germans aboard. We also have a curious little Dutch
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 47 
 
 band, which plays strange, weird pieces that make one 
 wish for his enemies. This little Dutch band cleans 
 the decks mornings and evenings, so that they only 
 pain us for two hours in the morning, while they are 
 resting, and during the dinner hour, when they 
 dispense more Heinie music. 
 
 We are glad to get aboard. It seems as though we 
 are really going home that blessed word, when love 
 and truth rule, to comfort and sooth our world-weary 
 brains. 
 
 I have made the acquaintance of a charming English 
 woman. We had tea aboard, made from her tea 
 basket. We did fancy work together, and she is also 
 my table companion. She presented me with some 
 real for-get-me-nots from her garden at home. I wish 
 to keep them forever, they are so delicate and so 
 sweet. They are the first I have ever seen. They 
 change color from blue to violet, and then to tan- 
 brown, before they fade. 
 
 This ship is really comfortable oh, so comfortable 
 for a boat! We sit in the sun and Mr. Middleton 
 sleeps. 
 
 We land at Gibraltar in the morning, April twenty- 
 ninth. We paid this quaint old town a visit in 
 December. We bought here a half dozen Moorish 
 baskets, and some delicious strawberries. We met 
 a typical English soldier, with Miss Belle Rennie. He 
 carried a Tommy Atkins, and was very stiff and 
 proper; bore himself extremely well, and we admired 
 his athletic bearing. 
 
 After another day and a half, we landed at Algiers, 
 Africa. Although it was rainy and stormy, we went 
 ashore. We drove all over the city with a guide, 
 spending six hours, and as the city is very small, it is 
 possible to go over it many times in that period. It 
 is hundreds of years old, and is now a possession of the 
 French Government. The inhabitants are mixed 
 Turks, Moors, Frenchmen and Negroes. The town is 
 built on the side of a hill. We visited the Sultan's
 
 48 ALINEADAY 
 
 palace, and his former harem, a beautiful building of 
 white marble and blue tiles Italian blue, and 
 trimmed with black and red wood, hand carved. The 
 effect is very striking. The palace was built three 
 hundred and sixty years ago. There is an entrance to 
 the mosque, or Moorish church, from the palace. Both 
 buildings, of course, are of Moorish design, with 
 Gothic windows and doors. 
 
 We have visited another mosque at six o'clock, when 
 the people were assembling to worship, just at the close 
 of the day. The mosques are built with galleries, 
 where the women sit alone, while the men sit down- 
 stairs on the floor there are no seats. The wealthy 
 bring their little prayer rugs with them, on which they 
 sit in a peculiar squatting position, while the poor 
 kneel on the bare floor. There is a huge basin or 
 fountain at one end of this mosque, where all the 
 faithful must wash their faces, feet and hands. One 
 can hear them splashing the water and chanting queer 
 noises. This custom is indeed picturesque. The girls 
 and women veil their faces and live in almost complete 
 retirement. They wear full trousers, fancy Zouave 
 jackets, and a rolled flat turban. The rich wear silk, 
 satin, and velvet, in gorgeous shades of blue, red and 
 purple, while the poorer classes use a white material 
 resembling our muslin and cheese cloth. The men are 
 attired in long flowing white robes, a twisted Turkish 
 turban, and sandals. During the winter the upper 
 classes wear blankets of silk or camel's hair, draped 
 about their shoulders in a most picturesque fashion. 
 The Mohammedan priest is called a Marabout. 
 There are many, many children here, but so neglected ; 
 everything is so unkept, both the streets and the 
 homes. 
 
 We spent quite a bit of time in the old part of the 
 town, where only Moors live. The streets are 
 decidedly narrow, with mere holes-in-the-wall for 
 homes and places of business. Three o'clock in the 
 afternoon is their coffee time. It is customary for
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 49 
 
 the men to assemble in the restaurants or coffee 
 houses to play cards, drink black coffee and smoke 
 Turkish cigarettes. The women never attend; they 
 are treated very unjustly here. After a woman loses 
 her youth and charm she is used as a slave and is 
 forced to do all the hard work. It is pitiful to see them. 
 Girls marry at ten and twelve years of age and are 
 extremely pretty when young, but the life they are 
 forced to lead makes them look like withered hags 
 at twenty. However, they live to be very old. 
 
 We saw one venerable old gentleman here, ninety- 
 two years old. He is supported by the city, in a nice 
 clean little hole-in-the-wall, where he was lying on 
 some white straw. He was certainly a study for an 
 artist, with his classic features, long white beard, 
 silvery hair, tapering hands, his wonderfully soft 
 black eyes and olive skin. 
 
 We leave for Genoa at midnight, in the midst of a 
 very bad storm. In a day and a half we reach this 
 city the birthplace of Columbus. We visited his 
 home, a dreadful old house, situated in a very bad 
 neighborhood. In Mr. Middleton's opinion, judged 
 from his surroundings, Christopher must have been 
 a pretty tough lad. Genoa is clean and up-to-date 
 in the new portion of the city. We drove all over the 
 town and had lunch on the hill overlooking the bay, 
 which I think is more beautiful than Naples. The 
 port was once the leading commercial city in the 
 world, but after so many wars with other nations, it is 
 glad to be on earth at all. However, considerable 
 commerce is carried on here at the present time. Now 
 they are making preparations to celebrate the birthday 
 of Garibaldi, the illustrious statesman who saved the 
 city and made it a part of modern Italy. 
 
 There are several small but very pretty parks here, 
 and this cemetery is the most unique in the world. 
 The dead are buried above ground, on shelves, and 
 before these shelves are wonderful doors of marble or 
 bronze, on which are represented life size figures of the
 
 60 ALINEADAY 
 
 entire family, grouped together gates with angels 
 opening them, with the exact likeness of the deceased, 
 also his occupation or profession, or any hobby that 
 he may have had, carved in Carrara marble, or bronze. 
 The surrounding hills are dotted with wonderful little 
 chapels; the wealthy have their own chapel, and 
 conduct their own services. Most extraordinary! 
 
 The baker-woman was very original. She begged 
 and sold on the streets a sort of pretzel, and saved 
 enough money to erect a splendid monument for her- 
 self and family. And here she stands, life-size, carved 
 in snowy Carrara marble, offering her pretzels for sale. 
 A prominent physician is represented on the magnifi- 
 cent bronze doors of his mausoleum, giving alms and 
 medicines to struggling and suffering humanity. 
 Another very striking group of figures shows a father 
 passing away in his death chamber, surrounded by his 
 wife and seven children all the figures are life-size, 
 done in Carrara marble. It is most impressive. 
 
 We have returned home that is, to the boat 
 after a very full day. We have been pleasantly 
 entertained. We visited Genoa in December, but the 
 weather was stormy and we only paused long enough 
 to change trains for Nice. 
 
 After another day and a half we reached Naples, 
 the port where we landed in December. The same 
 place, and the same old dirty people. We passed the 
 Berlin today in mid-ocean, and sighted the Barbarossa, 
 the boat on which Mrs. Eacutt sailed for America. 
 We go ashore, shop a little, purchase some asparagus, 
 tobacco, a Panama hat and more coral. Drive all 
 over the city once more, are caught in a shower while 
 ashore, and finally return to the vessel. 
 
 We are now enroute to Port Said, a three days' run. 
 We passed the City of Messina, and it is a wreck 
 indeed, on both sides of the strait. Twenty-two 
 thousand six hundred people were killed in the recent 
 disaster. They are beginning to rebuild the city, 
 after a lapse of one year. We passed the Island of
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 51 
 
 Elba, the scene of Napoleon's brief sojourn in 1814-15. 
 We saw once more the cones of Mt. Vesuvius, and Mt. 
 Aetna, near Messina. We are sending postals all 
 along, and are wondering what you are doing tonight. 
 We dine on deck; it is a glorious night although 
 somewhat cool, after a delightful day. How we should 
 like to peep into each little house and see what is 
 cooking for supper! 
 
 MAY 10 
 
 We have had several dull days on board, with 
 nothing to do but eat and rest. We land at Port 
 Said, Egypt, on the morning of May tenth. We go 
 ashore at six-fifteen. Just beyond Port Said is tha 
 beginning of the Sahara Desert. The city has ten 
 thousand inhabitants, a motley blend of Greeks, 
 Arabs, Negroes, Frenchmen, Italians and Turks. The 
 people pray from five to seven times a day and wash 
 their faces, hands and feet each time an excellent 
 religion, although I fear that some of them do not pray 
 enough one sees such terible people and such vile 
 dirt. The human beings here live so near the animal. 
 The children all seem sadly neglected. This region is 
 very sandy, and the people all have poor eyesight. 
 Many are blind in one eye, and others totally blind. 
 It is attributed to the sand blowing. All wear the 
 national Arab costume. The married women wear a 
 piece of wood or brass in their noses, a sort of twisted 
 wheel affair, that comes from the top of the forehead 
 to the end of the nose. A veil is draped across this 
 to hide the lower features, while a scarf is tied down 
 tight over their heads. The eyes alone are visible 
 but they speak volumes. 
 
 We purchased some ostrich feathers and cigarettes 
 and drove all over the city. We saw many handsome 
 Turkish pillow covers. It is a ride of four miles from 
 here to the City of Cairo. The innumerable fortune 
 tellers and shop keepers make one's life miserable. 
 The soldiers are fine looking men, arrayed in white
 
 52 ALINEADAY 
 
 uniforms with red belts, red fez caps, and with their 
 bronzed complexions, they are very Oriental indeed. 
 Egypt is controlled by the British. The Egyptian 
 ruler is called the Khedive. 
 
 We enter the Suez Canal. It is eighty-three miles 
 long and twelve hours is required for the passage. It 
 is very narrow, and is cut directly through the sandy 
 barren desert, with here and there a station for the 
 Canal. At about four-thirty in the afternoon, just 
 as the sun was setting, we noticed an Arab hut about 
 two miles from the bank, and a caravan of camels 
 about ten in number. Two were advancing alone from 
 away in the desert, the rest were following slowly. 
 It was indeed a perfect picture. The sun was sinking 
 in a blaze of crimson, making a splendidly vivid 
 background for the straggling old camels. 
 
 We are having beggars of the wildman type, crying : 
 "Ship ahoy! Bread! Give!" and other strange 
 noises. The passengers threw oranges, apples, and 
 potatoes until the captain was furious. They were 
 clothed only in rags and would dive down under the 
 water for the delicacies. They would run for two miles 
 along the shore. In truth, they were the nearest 
 to wildmen, or savages, that I have ever encountered 
 perfectly nude, except a piece of blanket about the 
 waist. 
 
 MAY 11 
 
 W T e are at Port Suez. There is a small village about 
 one mile from here, called Suezais. We have entered 
 the Red Sea. It is very warm, but fairly pleasant. We 
 have traveled three days, enroute to Aden. 
 
 All day we have glided languidly along, with sand, 
 and mountains of sand on each side of us barren 
 desert, where rain seldom falls, where burning sand is 
 all there is, and no living thing can exist. 
 
 As the vessel speeds on her way we realize that 
 summer is approaching. This evening we were given 
 a wonderful sunset. The sky took on a copper shade,
 
 AROUND THE WORLD S3 
 
 deepening into a gorgeous crimson. The vivid tints, 
 reflecting on the water, set it all aglow. The sea 
 appeared a greenish red, while the shore line of sand 
 divided this glowing ocean and sky. One would have 
 thought the desert was on fire. 
 
 Slowly, slowly, the sun sinks to rest, and the brilliant 
 colors change to sadder hues, and as the day gently 
 dies, a peculiar melancholy mist of cloud veils the 
 heavens, always noticeable at sea at this time in the 
 evening. 
 
 It reminds one that one more golden day has past, 
 to be numbered with the many pleasant and happy 
 ones that can never be lived again, save in sweet fancy. 
 
 Precious time! How I long to hold you thus 
 forever! Why must you always be moving? When 
 we are happy, you speed away so swiftly, but slowly 
 and sadly, indeed, when trouble and sorrow cast their 
 gloom o'er our path of life ! 
 
 MAY 13 
 
 We are on our way to Aden. It is certainly 
 decidedly warm in this region of the Red Sea. All the 
 passengers have donned summer clothing, white 
 flannel and duck suits, and all the officers of the boat 
 are attired in white. This is the impression we get 
 from stories of the ideal life at sea. All day we sit 
 on deck, reading, visiting, and chatting with each 
 other. I did a little fancy work, intermingled with 
 gossip. I have finished Lord Lytton's "Last Days of 
 Pompeii," Mark Twain's "Tramp Abroad," "Before 
 Adam," by Jack London, and miscellaneous writings 
 of Kipling. 
 
 We have been greatly amused by the spectacle of a 
 Chinaman smoking and holding his pipe between his 
 toes, with inimitable grace and apparent comfort. 
 
 About three a. m., May twelfth, we were called to 
 see the comet. We saw it a few nights ago, but under 
 very unfavorable conditions, as the sky was cloudy. 
 But this morning it is wonderfully clear, with myriads
 
 54 ALINEADAY 
 
 of brilliant stars twinkling in the firmament. Dear old 
 Venus is divine. She sheds a ray of light on the 
 rippling water as gloriously bright as the moon itself, 
 and she appears as large as a wagon wheel. The 
 musical splash of the waves, caused by the plowing of 
 the boat, with the dazzling ray of light diffused by this 
 star only adds to the fascinating mystery of this 
 comet. It is almost directly east now it has been a 
 little southeast, with Venus very near. It is so 
 reposeful to thus lean over the water to behold so 
 much, and to understand so little. Only at sea does 
 one have these melancholy spells these pensive 
 moods. When we review again the pages of the past, 
 as we would read a book, we live these years over 
 again, one by one, our sorrows and our joys! Show 
 me a heart that has not suffered, and I will show you a 
 person who has not lived. 
 
 It is heavenly to watch the day slowly expire, to see 
 the glorious orb of day slowly sink to rest over the 
 shimmering sea. A mysterious calmness comes over 
 the ocean, a hazy mist seems to carry one up into the 
 darkness. At last we behold the moon. As we dip 
 along, the white foam churning beside the vessel, it 
 seems to steal softly after us, or veils itself behind a 
 passing cloud, as children play hide-and-seek. 
 
 A SUMMER DAY AT SEA 
 
 The sea is like a mill pond today, of a strange 
 greenish hue. The sky has a peculiar gray-blue cast, 
 caused by the sun's golden glow, and gently, oh, 
 so gently, a cool breeze plays about and fans one's 
 stray locks, reminding one that it is good to live, to be 
 able to rest one's fatigued brain in this ineffable peace ! 
 
 As the ships pass, so do these idle thoughts, and I jot 
 them down here in this blue immensity, where the 
 world seems asleep and dreaming. It is so soothing 
 and reposeful, this charm of thought it is really be- 
 yond speech.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD ; 56 
 
 I have just finished Beatrice Harradan's novel, 
 "Ships that Pass in the Night." It has depressed me 
 greatly. It is now twelve o'clock, and I am still on 
 the deck, watching the moon. It has been very 
 warm, and all the passengers seem restless and have 
 remained on deck very late. The ships that pass 
 in the night are the people that come into our lives 
 and go; some leave pleasant memories and others sad 
 ones; some we long to forget and cannot. By each 
 ship, each pleasant thought, each act, we are better 
 off to every living soul it is a lesson. 
 
 I thank you, kind Fate, that so many good ships 
 have sailed my way, and for the others also, as they 
 are necessary to make complete the voyage of life, and 
 in the future I shall watch for ships in distress and 
 storm-tossed souls! 
 
 MAY 15 
 
 We are about to leave Aden, Arabia. The city 
 appears to be built on jagged rocks. We did not land, 
 but only exchanged mail. The numerous vendors were 
 most interesting. They are negroes of the savage 
 type, very small, and oh, so thin! naked, except for a 
 loin cloth. Some of the more refined and genteel 
 wear a rag around their heads. They are in boats, 
 selling tobacco, beads, ostrich feathers, fans, horns, 
 postals, etc., crying: "Mr. Poor Lady, have a look, 
 buy a big one, cheap." Their black naked forms 
 fairly glisten in the sun; they grease their bodies 
 until they look like polished ebony. Some have their 
 hair dyed a bright red this is done with lime; also 
 long sashes hang down their backs and around their 
 stomachs. They adorn their person with anklets, 
 bracelets, huge rings and strings of beads. You can 
 imagine what a picture they make. 
 
 The heat is something dreadful. England has her 
 inevitable soldiers here, making this a military station. 
 They leave their command quite often. It is impossi- 
 ble to live here very long at a time. The British
 
 56 ALINEADAY 
 
 soldiers dress in tan shoes and half socks, with khaki 
 knee breeches and naked bodies; a strap that goes 
 around the neck, and a pad down the spine, that 
 buckles around the waist. All wear helmets. We are 
 told that many sunstrokes are caused here by the sun's 
 rays striking directly on the spine, hence these pads. 
 
 We started the day rather quietly. We have a 
 level sea with nothing in sight from horizon to horizon. 
 The speed of the good ship makes a slight breeze. 
 There is no mail, no letters, no papers, no telephones, 
 no startling sounds, no sudden joys or sorrows all is 
 well. The busy world seems so far away that it is 
 easy to forget that it exists. People and things appear 
 to have gone out of our lives. Apathy and ambition, 
 prosperity and disaster do not concern me now. The 
 cares and worries of life are far behind me the 
 present is delightfully soothing and there is no 
 future. The whirl of sight-seeing, time and trains, 
 guides, art, history are no more ! There is a balm in 
 this ineffable peace. 
 
 MAY 16 
 
 Last night we saw the comet again we rose at 
 fifteen minutes to three to wait for it. At first there 
 was only a faint, white streak in the heavens; the 
 stars were rather dim. After fifteen or twenty min- 
 utes, the sky became perceptibly lighter; Venus rose 
 rapidly, shedding her wonderful beam on the rippling 
 water, and she seemed close enough to touch. In half 
 an hour the tail of the comet was very long and bright, 
 its position being almost due east, the body of the 
 comet pointing near the horizon. It is not as brilliant 
 as on the twelfth. It is traveling at the rate of 
 sixteen thousand miles every twenty-four hours (so 
 the passengers say). We stood wondering on the 
 deck, in the wee hours of the morning, in this great 
 stillness, on this huge black expanse of water, beneath 
 the starlit heavens it is all so wonderful and so 
 mystifying.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 57 
 
 Each night we see many meteors or flying stars. 
 I have counted three or four each evening. 
 
 We are bounding along pleasantly. We saw many 
 porpoises playing about, jumping in and out of the 
 water, school after school of them along the northern 
 coast of Africa. The shore appears to be rocky and 
 sandy and far away. 
 
 It is gratifying to be an American one finds 
 wealth and comfort in the very thought. As Mark 
 Twain says, an American is mislaid in these foreign 
 countries. 
 
 THE MOON 
 
 Dear, kind, old Moon ! You have been lighting our 
 world these many centuries, yet you never seem to tire 
 of your duty ! In your rising and sinking to rest there 
 seems to be a reposeful melancholy; the human heart 
 finds comfort in thinking and dreaming beneath your 
 serene rays, as you shine on. Our thoughts cling to the 
 past, or reach on to the mystic future, hoping and 
 trusting. Return, each night, I pray you! I shall 
 watch and wait for you on the stern of the vessel, 
 that we may moon again, O gracious Moon, you and I ! 
 
 THE STARS 
 
 With your strange and wonderful light, so far, yet 
 seemingly so near, as you shine, independent, all- 
 glorious, I adore you! What would you have more? 
 How I should love to grasp you, to own you, to have 
 you for my very own ! I have asked for you, but alas ! 
 Each glittering star in the resplendent heavens, 
 I know I have visited them all, as they meet me each 
 eve! Then my heart rejoices; but when the heavens 
 are dark, my soul is sadly depressed. Shine on, 
 wondrous beauties, so silvery, so full of love and light, 
 as you dance and flirt, lighting the heavens on high 
 with your fanciful shapes and mystical language ! 
 
 We saw the comet again. The sky was a deep blue, 
 or blue-black color. The comet is in about the same
 
 58 ALINEADAY 
 
 position. The tail is much plainer than before. The 
 best description of the comet is that it resembles a 
 searchlight. We saw it at four-fifteen, just as day was 
 dawning. 
 
 We arrive at Colombo. Ceylon is an island belong- 
 ing to India, under British dominion. The week has 
 been a very long one, and very warm. We are half 
 way to our destination; the ship is fairly pleasant. 
 We passed through the comet on the eighteenth, 
 everybody happy and thankful to the divine Provi- 
 dence to have been borne safely through, for the 
 whole world was anxious. 
 
 We heard the sad news of the death of King Edward 
 yesterday. He was buried the twentieth of May. 
 We had services on board the ship. Archbishop 
 Agus, of Manila, is on board. It is said that he is 
 likely to be the next Pope. He is accompanied by his 
 secretary and a retinue of servants. They read mass 
 every morning at six o'clock, with candles burning, 
 attired in flowing lacy robes, and crimson sashes. We 
 have made the acquaintance of the Archbishop and 
 find him not only a priest of divinity but a gentlemanly 
 ship companion. It is a delight to converse with him. 
 Mr. Middleton and the father sit and visit for hours, 
 smoking cigarettes. I enjoy the sweetmeats that he 
 brings me every few days. He possesses a charming 
 personality. A comfortable sort of smile plays about 
 his countenance; he has a full round face and expres- 
 sive eyes. He has a cultivated voice, of a rich deep 
 tone, and speaks with a studied expression that holds 
 one's attention, and makes one wish for more 
 acquaintances of the same type. His spirited and 
 intelligent conversation is a veritable feast for the 
 mind. Splendid father, I am your most devoted 
 admirer ! 
 
 I am going now to make a toilette for East India, to 
 go ashore in the sultry, stifling heat. We passed an 
 island this morning at six o'clock, where two thousand
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 59 
 
 natives live and grow cocoanuts. The rats almost 
 take this island bodily and destroy about three- 
 fourths of the crop each year. 
 
 Colombo is a beautiful city, though somewhat 
 flat. Large quantities of rice, tea, tropical fruits of 
 every description cocoanuts, mangoes, a fruit like our 
 popo, bread fruit, mangostinos, known as the 
 "heavenly fruit." It is unlike any other fruit I have 
 ever seen, resembling a caramel in a bitter shell. It is 
 cream in color; the shell is dark brown and the center 
 is like the filling of a cream caramel perfectly 
 delicious. The cocoanuts are especially abundant, 
 also jack-fruit. The people of India are small of 
 stature, very black, and have straight hair. The 
 men wear their hair beautifully brushed and dressed 
 with tortoise shell hoop combs. The women are very, 
 very small; they wear earrings in the tops of their 
 ears; some have holes in their noses and wear orna- 
 ments of shell; others wear a sort of brass hook; 
 some are adorned with anklets, bracelets and strings of 
 beads very, very large ones. They wear a cloth 
 wound around them and a short bolero jacket, edged 
 with a ruffle. The men wear only a skirt-cloth 
 wrapped around them; the very poor wear merely 
 a small rag. 
 
 The lower classes carry their babies nude. They are 
 so sweet and so black, some of them with only a string 
 of shells around their waists. 
 
 The hotels here are excellent. We had tea at the 
 Pagoda, the large tea-house of the village. 
 
 We spent three hours in a 'rickshaw. My, how I 
 like this way of going! Mr. Middleton had a dankoa, 
 with the usual rag wrapped about him, and a beautiful 
 handmade shirt or vest, the material resembling Irish 
 crochet. He was very small, very black, and very 
 fleet of foot. We tried to buy his shirt, which was 
 really a work of art, but as it was all he had on, he did 
 not seem very anxious to part with it. The 'richshaw 
 is rubber-tired and very comfortable, with curtains and
 
 60 ALINEADAY 
 
 a top for use in rainy weather. We had a few drops of 
 rain while here. 
 
 We visited Cinnamon Park. We noticed a number 
 of banyan trees. The branches droop to the ground, 
 and take root again. They are decidedly picturesque. 
 One was more than one hundred feet in circumference. 
 Ceylon, India, is the home of many precious jewels. 
 Many of the world's most clever lapidaries have their 
 headquarters here. 
 
 The merchants peddle their wares in the streets. 
 They take you by the arm, and nearly pull you off 
 your feet to come into their shops and "have a look." 
 We were glad to return to the ship for dinner, as it 
 was extremely hot on shore. We have enjoyed it very 
 much. It was especially lovely at night to see the 
 many twinkling lights of the city, and to feel ourselves 
 gliding dreamily farther and farther out into the 
 silent sea. 
 
 A lovely clear sky, with the moon hanging above, 
 shedding her silvery beams over the shimmering sea, 
 as we move to the west. All seems so reposeful. Our 
 next stop will be Penang, another island of India. 
 
 MAY 25 
 
 Another disappointment. We did not arrive at 
 Penang before five p. m. It was very warm, hardly 
 a breeze stirring. We just lounged about, with hardly 
 any life in us. I did so long to do something. The 
 evenings after dinner are delightful, thanks to the 
 moon, who sheds her languid light just in front of the 
 bow of the ship. (They say that the ship really makes 
 love when she is tied to her bow.) In the midst of this 
 glorious calm of sea and sky, a cup of black coffee 
 beside us, it is no less than heavenly to glide along, and 
 dream a real "Midsummer Night's Dream." 
 
 MAY 24 
 
 We passed the Island of Sumatra. This island is 
 a Dutch possession. The natives resemble the Malays
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 61 
 
 in appearance. Sumatra is very rich in gold, silver, 
 iron, lead and precious stones. Tigers, leopards, lions, 
 etc., are abundant in this region. We saw the port 
 where the Russian vessels coaled on their way to Port 
 Arthur. 
 
 A MONKEY STORY 
 
 We have met a gentleman from Java. He is our 
 table companion, and is full of good stories. Certain 
 neighbors of his in Java owned a large monkey. He 
 escaped one night, got on the roof of the house, and 
 turned up every tile on it. The next day it rained and 
 the place was flooded. The monkey came down and 
 made himself comfortable in a rocking chair while it 
 rained. He proved so vicious that his owners were 
 unable to recapture him and were compelled to shoot 
 him a sad finish for Mr. Mischievous Monkey. 
 
 MAY 26 
 
 Penang: The harbor is quaint, with its many 
 boatmen Hindoos, Chinese and Malays. The boats 
 have eyes it is an old tradition that boats need eyes 
 that they may see their way. The fishing vessels 
 have straw matting sails and are rigged in the most 
 extraordinary shapes, a sort of scalloped effect; 
 they call them sangpans. They have a peculiar 
 manner of rowing a sort of over-handed stroke. 
 They pole them standing in the stern. 
 
 We took a victoria and drove to the Siamese temple, 
 about five miles from Penang, through miles of cocoa- 
 nut groves. The trees seem to grow so pretty and 
 clean, and are loaded with nuts the crop will be 
 gathered in about six weeks. Here the mangostino 
 grows, also the dorin. This last named fruit grows on 
 a tall tree, is about the size of a cocoanut, or larger, 
 with a rough burr like a thistle. It has the most 
 terrible odor imaginable it is almost unendurable. 
 This is the season when there are large numbers of 
 them on the trees. The natives are extremely fond of
 
 62 ALINEADAY 
 
 this fruit; they say the centre is delicious, but we will 
 never know its flavor, the odor being quite enough. 
 
 There are many nice homes, handsome public 
 buildings, fine streets, autos, schools, orphans' homes, 
 and all the up-to-date touches one would expect to 
 find in a modern city. Many English live here, 
 Germans galore, and great numbers of Chinese. 
 
 We had lunch at the Oriental Hotel, where they 
 served an excellent meal. The homes of the people 
 are worthy of study, and the dear little babies espe- 
 cially interest me. I saw the first Chinese lady with 
 small feet. Poor soul, hobbling about, her foot was 
 about an inch and a half long! Most of the shippers 
 here are Chinese also, and again one seems to be in 
 another world. It is all so strange and so fascinating. 
 
 We walked about a half a mile to the temple and 
 ascended a flight of stairs, for the temple is built on 
 the top of a terraced hill. There is a pond with three 
 hundred turtles in it and another containing goldfish. 
 They pray to these fish and to their two gods Buddhas. 
 They are wooden idols. Each temple has one, two, or 
 even three gods, all different. Each Buddha has a 
 servant and a boat. They give entertainments for 
 Buddha in the shape of fireworks, upon these steps 
 or in this terraced garden. These images of Buddha 
 are gilded, with most hideous faces, and are seated in 
 a squatting position. 
 
 There are great numbers of blind and crippled 
 beggars here, as in every other country. The private 
 homes are small, but fairly clean. Each home has 
 a Buddha and an altar. Candles are burned all day 
 before these altars. The natives sleep on the floor at 
 night, on a straw mat and a wooden pillow. They 
 wear very little clothing. 
 
 We are now within sixty degrees of the equator. 
 It is delightfully cool, with a calm sea and all is well. 
 We are sitting about in delicious idleness, as the good 
 ship bears us swiftly and quietly to our destination. 
 We have a prince on board; also the Hon. Edward
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 6$ 
 
 Cole, of London, brother of Lord something-or-other. 
 He is our table companion, and seemingly just human; 
 he eats like all the rest of us. The prince and his 
 servants six in number and his young wife, are 
 about to take the boat. 
 
 MAY 27 SINGAPORE 
 
 We arrive at Singapore on the twenty-seventh of 
 May, at seven a. m. The harbor is very beautiful, 
 with many, many steamers and sailing vessels of every 
 description. We saw the largest sailing boat in the 
 world a wonderful craft, also equipped with a thou- 
 sand horse power engine. 
 
 As usual, we encounter many Chinese, Hindoos, 
 and Malays here. They all speak Malay. The police 
 are called " malta-malta, " pronounced malta-e-ye. 
 We visit the National Museum, where there is a 
 wonderful collection of butterflies. We saw a remarka- 
 ble exhibit of stuffed animals from all the different 
 islands and Oriental countries; also fishes of every 
 variety, fruits, and shells India is noted for its rare 
 and beautiful shells. 
 
 We rode in a 'rickshaw to the Botanical Garden, a 
 pretty place and very spacious. We did not see a great 
 deal of it, as we were compelled to walk and the 
 distance was very great. We had lunch, known in this 
 country as"tiffin," at the European Hotel, a thoroughly 
 comfortable establishment. We had splendid curried 
 chicken and wonderful chutney, the best either of us 
 had ever eaten. 
 
 We purchased some East Indian laces; saw the 
 Chinese making bamboo furniture, and many high- 
 born Chinese ladies hobbling about, and dear little 
 babies strapped to the nurses' backs. They have a 
 shaved spot on the crown of the girls' heads; but they 
 allow the boys' hair to grow and begin to braid it into 
 a little cue from earliest infancy. The poor braid rags 
 into the hair; the upper classes use ribbon or silk cord. 
 
 We saw numberless cocoanut and banana trees, and
 
 64 ALINEADAY 
 
 wonderful palms, with leaves like the roof of a house. 
 They are building a new landing pier at a cost of two 
 million dollars. The Chinese coal their vessels in 
 baskets, on a bamboo pole. They all work very hard. 
 
 In Singapore one begins to get a touch of real 
 Oriental life. One becomes lazy and indolent; the 
 Oriental fever takes possession of one; we are inclined 
 to let things slip by and take their course. 
 
 Everyone dresses in white, and everything is 
 so clean. We have a four days' run to Hong 
 Kong. It is extremely hot almost impossible to live 
 or to breathe. We are now in the China Sea, having 
 left the Straits of Malacca at Singapore. We saw 
 two Russian vessels that had been captured and sunk 
 by the Japanese. They are now afloat, and they are 
 being used as training ships. 
 
 JUNE 1 HONG KONG 
 
 Hong Kong is built on the side of a rocky mountain. 
 It is a pretty town. The Chinese here live in boats, 
 on the water, many of them, propelling them with two 
 long paddles, with a rocking motion. Entire families 
 live on these boats they are their homes. On them 
 they raise ducks, chickens and children many, 
 many children. They cook rice, vegetables and fish, 
 and are fairly clean. They carry their babies strapped 
 on their backs with a square piece of cloth. Often 
 these infants are strapped to the backs of the children ; 
 the children play, and the little tots bob and toss 
 about, but do not seem to mind in the least; they 
 rock and roll merrily on. 
 
 Our first introduction to the city was a dead 
 Chinaman being towed like a dead turtle, face down- 
 ward, a rope around his neck, tied to the stern of a 
 row boat. Another Chinaman was towing him ashore. 
 Everybody was laughing and seemed quite hilarious 
 over it, but Mr. Middleton and I were inclined to take 
 it seriously. Mr. M. said: "Poor devil!" I retorted:
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 65 
 
 "Mr. M., wait, I want to see him!" Mr. M.: "Oh, 
 come on; they will have to get a horse and wagon and 
 take him away!" As there is not a horse in Hong 
 Kong, it struck me as being very funny. 
 
 So on we went to the top of the peak. We had 
 lunch at a German restaurant, made a few purchases, 
 and took a 'rickshaw for "home" the boat. The 
 vessel always presents a busy scene, loading and 
 unloading freight, and people coming and going 
 incessantly. This is a very rocky region, and the 
 vegetation is very scanty. Consequently there is 
 little to see. The usual allotment of English soldiers 
 is stationed here. 
 
 Just before reaching Hong Kong we passed the Bay 
 of Sardeau, whence the Russian fleet sailed to meet 
 its doom. Sardeau is under the control of France. We 
 have passed many fishing craft as many as thirty- 
 eight in a fleet. They are certainly a picture as they 
 sail by, with their peculiar square sails. We saw a 
 jelly fish in the harbor of Hong Kong. 
 
 They have severe wind storms here, known as 
 typhoons, somewhat similar to our cyclones. They 
 sweep away houses and boats, and drown hundreds of 
 people each season. 
 
 THE CHINAMAN 
 
 He is really a fine type of physical development; 
 larger than I had thought to find him in his native 
 country. He is meek and hard-working, and has but 
 one ambition that is, to some day retire, wear fine 
 silks, spotless linen, and long finger-nails, with plenty 
 of servants, and to be able to ride never to walk. 
 
 They are clever merchants, having a keen com- 
 mercial insight. They often become very wealthy and 
 live elegantly. They have a passion for pearls, and 
 own some of the finest in the world. There are many 
 absolutely perfect pearls in China, and have been 
 for centuries past. 
 
 Their cue is their special pride: it is brushed, oiled,
 
 66 ALINEADAY 
 
 and always well groomed, even among the poorest 
 classes. The street barbers are a great curiosity to us; 
 they go about the streets trimming cues and shaving, 
 with merely a little stool, stopping in front of the 
 stores or homes. The Chinese method of shaving is 
 decidedly different from ours they use neither lather 
 nor water. 
 
 The Chinese salute each other with three very low 
 bows, rubbing their knees with their hands, and 
 making a noise like "She! She!" The women also 
 squat almost to the ground, three times. The men rule 
 the women, as in all Oriental countries, but, I am told, 
 in a kindly way. Most of their life is passed in-doors 
 one rarely meets a woman on the street. We have one 
 on board this ship, a mandarin's wife (a mandarin 
 means a wealthy merchant). Poor soul, trying to 
 hobble about on her tiny feet! They wear their hair 
 stuck back in a simple knot, with a great deal of 
 pomade on it. Some still black their teeth and shave 
 their eyebrows, but these customs, together with the 
 small feet, are rapidly going out. 
 
 The kiss is absolutely unknown to the Chinese 
 people: they never kiss, but merely pat each other 
 on the shoulder in the most endearing way. Not a 
 bad idea. 
 
 They use no chairs, but sit on the floor. They wear 
 mandarin's coats and pants ; the high-born lady wears 
 a straight skirt. The babies are so sweet and so fat! 
 They are dressed in the funniest little pants imagin- 
 able. They wear these curious little pants and coats 
 a miniature of their father's and mother's from the 
 very beginning of life. They have no baby clothes. 
 They look like little old men and women when they 
 start on life's journey. Their caps resemble skull caps, 
 with a round hole in the crown, and they put bracelets 
 on their ankles and wrists. They sleep on their 
 stomachs. They never crawl, but lie on their 
 stomachs, propping themselves up on their chubby 
 little arms.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 07 
 
 JUNE 4 SHANGHAI 
 
 We land at Shanghai on the morning of June fourth. 
 We are unable to get into the harbor it is too shallow. 
 We go ashore in a tender. The harbor is very pretty ; 
 many boats, including Chinese sampans, and many 
 small craft resembling pumpkins with heads and tails 
 on them. These are all endowed with eyes, so that 
 the boat can see. 
 
 Here we have the 'rickshaw again, that handiest of 
 all the relics of the past, and the coolie, the beast of 
 burden of the east. Mr. Middleton says "Poor devil, 
 he asks so little and gets it!" 
 
 \Ve go ashore to the Palace Hotel, a delightfully 
 cool and up-to-date place, built about five years ago. 
 We take a victoria and drive all over the city our 
 first drive in the east. There is plenty of life in this 
 place, said by people who know to be the Paris of the 
 Orient. Things evidently move here at a very fast 
 pace. They have the Chitz system, and sign checks, 
 paying once a year. We took a guide and went to the 
 Meo-hoo-shung tea house, or "The Tea House of the 
 Willow Tree," an edifice in typical Chinese pattern, 
 more than six hundred years old. It looked as though 
 it would fall down every moment. It is built in a low, 
 swampy place, with crooked bridges to and from it to 
 keep off evil spirits. They built their country roads 
 crooked and zig-zag for the same purpose. 
 
 We passed through the gates of the Walled City, 
 hundreds of years old Chinese history dates back to 
 2000 B. C. Inside this Walled City is the old 
 Chinese quarter proper, with very narrow streets 
 and small one-story shops, most of them about four- 
 teen feet square. Here entire families live, sleeping 
 on a straw mat with a wooden pillow, cut like a boot- 
 jack; they roll the mat up during the day. Here 
 they make curious and beautiful vases, incense, 
 carved ivory, bamboo, Chinese lanterns, embroidered 
 silks, and silk tassels; also all kinds of jewelry; here 
 are tailors, barbers and dentists, and vendors of
 
 68 ALINEADAY 
 
 lottery tickets. However, there are no millinery 
 stores, for here the women go bareheaded. They have 
 a few hairdressing shops, which they style "Toilette 
 Clubs for Ladies." 
 
 They all appear to work so hard and so patiently, 
 with a happy smile on their faces, for just an existence. 
 This existence consists of a bowl of rice and from 
 fifteen to twenty cups of tea per day. Tea is to them 
 what beer is to the German, wine to the Frenchman 
 and Italian, whiskey and soda to the Englishman, 
 and the cocktail and highball to the American. 
 
 We visited the home of a mandarin, which means 
 a rich gentleman of high degree. He had five wives, 
 each one of whom lives in a dear little house of her 
 own. They are all grouped together in a charming 
 garden. Here also is the club where the high-class 
 Chinese congregate every morning at ten o'clock, 
 to burn incense before a wooden god, drink tea, and 
 chat over the events of the hour. The prison and the 
 joss house, or Chinese church, adjoin the park and 
 the gate where they behead criminals; decapitation is 
 the present capital punishment for serious offenses. 
 Around all these buildings is a high wall about 
 twenty feet on the top of which are fantastic dragons 
 carved of stone, typical Chinese works of art. 
 
 The joss house is where the fat wooden gods sit 
 and grin. Candles and incense burn before them 
 eternally, and they bow to the very ground to pray. 
 Over them they hang two sampans boats for 
 their private use. In another corner four wooden 
 servants and four wooden soldiers are ever at the 
 disposal of the deity. One huge idol is the first god. 
 Every church has its five gods, and each one its special 
 patron deity. Each person goes in and prays for 
 himself, holding private services. 
 
 The joss-man wears no cue his head is shaven 
 and he is simply a watchman. Each hideous idol has 
 a live watchman to keep him company. This indi- 
 vidual wears a long, gray kimono, and with this cos-
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 69 
 
 tume, added to his shaven head, he is indeed an 
 oddity. One cannot help but like this heathen, for he 
 is so sincere. 
 
 Many have turned Christian and have accepted our 
 God, but hold on to the old one to make sure. People 
 who live among them declare that it is an endless 
 task to convert them, and that in reality they never 
 give up their old gods for the new One. For four 
 thousand years they have gone on in this way. It is 
 innate for them to worship these wooden gods, and 
 one can hardly blame them for not seeing things as 
 we would have them do. 
 
 We drove five miles out into the country, a lovely 
 landscape, where we had a glimpse of the Chinese as 
 a farmer. We saw them gathering silk cocoons from 
 the mulberry trees. Many, many Chinese carry two 
 large boxes on a bamboo pole, over their shoulder. 
 
 We visited a pagoda, the oldest in China, so quaint, 
 so antique, so picturesque, 'way out here in these 
 lonely woods. It is apparently tumbling down, and 
 looked positively weird. Here we encountered a dozen 
 or more beggars. There are two joss houses near this 
 pagoda. It is one hundred degrees Fahrenheit, the 
 warmest day we have felt. 
 
 The English merchants have a concession here, and 
 the French and Germans as well, but it is all virtually 
 under the control of the British. It is customary for 
 a Chinaman to have his coffin made during life; when 
 it is finished, he gives a grand fete and entertainment; 
 it is then placed in a "coffin temple," where they hold 
 services often. They all gather together, making 
 a sort of "coffin club." Not a half bad idea! 
 
 The sedan chairs of the noble ladies are quite gay 
 affairs. They are painted a brilliant Chinese red, 
 high-lighted with gold, with mirrors cut in, or designed, 
 all over it, seemingly inlaid. Four coolies carry or 
 swing it along; the noble lady is entirely enclosed, 
 without a breath of air. 
 
 Thus ends our delightful visit to Shanghai.
 
 70 ALINEADAY 
 
 SINGTOW JUNE 7 
 
 This is a German village, founded about twelve 
 years ago, leased by the Germans from China for 
 ninety-nine years. Here we are saluted by five 
 German men-o'-war, with the Admiral and the Duke 
 and Duchess of Brunswick on board. The ships were 
 all dressed, and it was certainly a delightful welcome. 
 At the dock the reception committee met us with 
 more music and excitement, and Dutch and Germans 
 galore. 
 
 We took a 'rickshaw, but saw very little of any 
 interest on our six hours' ride. On every hand we saw 
 such manifestations of cruelty on the part of the 
 Germans, domineering over the unfortunate Chinese, 
 that we returned to the vessel in a very bad humor. 
 The Chinaman here is at his poorest: indeed, the 
 worst types that we have met. They are exceedingly 
 dirty ; their hair is so unkempt. 
 
 Everything here is hand labor. We saw one 
 thousand Chinese disembarking from a work tug; 
 it was certainly a wonderful sight. This dock and 
 landing were made by hand labor. The city has five 
 thousand inhabitants. 
 
 The Duke and Duchess seemed to be quiet, genteel 
 people. He is a man of about sixty years: the frau 
 about twenty-four, and quite handsome. They were 
 accompanied by four servants, an artist, a secretary 
 and his wife. The Duchess's lady-in-waiting was 
 about as graceful as a gentle cow. They had a great 
 wagon load of baggage. They left the boat at Singtow. 
 They appeared rather bored. Thus ended royalty with 
 us and we with them. 
 
 We leave for Nagasaki, Japan, a twenty -four hours' 
 run. 
 
 Nagasaki is a lovely village. Here we have our first 
 glimpse of Japan, and the life delighted us. Every- 
 thing is immaculately clean, so tiny, and the people so 
 dainty, that it is indeed a charming picture. The 
 harbor is beautiful. The land is very mountainous,
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 71 
 
 and many dwellings are built up in the hills, nestling 
 among the queer old crooked trees. 
 
 Here are located the largest shipbuilding yards in 
 the east. All the Japanese war vessels are built here. 
 The women help to coal the boats, but they keep so 
 very clean that they are a picture. They tie their 
 heads up in white towels, and wear little blue jumpers. 
 After their task is done, they wash their hands and 
 faces, put on fresh linen, and go away in boats, singing 
 merrily. They all have happy faces, though they are 
 obliged to coal boats. 
 
 We purchased some tortoise shell here, where they 
 have some of the most wonderful handiwork in this 
 line. We saw the school, the flower market, the fish 
 and vegetable markets, all scrupulously clean, and 
 everything "just so." 
 
 The tiny Japanese homes resemble dolls' houses. 
 They are without tables, chairs, or beds. The windows 
 are of paper, or slats of wood that slide behind each 
 other. Every home has a diminutive garden in front 
 of it, with attractive little beds of flowers and ferns, 
 and cedar trees, while paper Japanese lanterns are 
 used to illuminate the house and grounds. 
 
 After leaving Nagasaki, we enter the Inland Sea. 
 
 This Inland Sea is a most picturesque body of 
 water, with its ragged and jagged coast line and 
 hundreds of fishing boats of every imaginable size and 
 style, darting about among the innumerable islands, 
 large and small. The cultivated hillsides on these 
 islands are true works of art. 
 
 They are cultivated here and there in odd shapes and 
 patches, raising vegetables and rice for the Japanese, 
 who live in small houses near the water. These rice 
 fields (known here as rice Paddies) are very small, 
 but the product is the choicest in Japan. It is all 
 exported, other cheaper grades being imported for the 
 natives. 
 
 The fishermen here are strangely garbed in 
 kimonos; one can see them raising and lowering the
 
 72 ALINEADAY 
 
 masts, hopping about on the decks, with these 
 kimonos flying wildly in the breeze. One might 
 think them clumsy, but they are grace itself. It is 
 unlike any other place in the world, this Inland Sea, 
 with its picturesque rice fields, the lovely islands and 
 hillsides, clothed in verdure of every beautiful shade 
 of green. O, beautiful world! wonderful world! 
 The more I see of your marvels, the more wonderful 
 you seem ! 
 
 The quaint, crooked trees on the mountain sides 
 add to the charm of this exquisite scenery. I hope 
 that my memory will retain forever this picture of all 
 pictures. 
 
 We darted lightly about, dodging these numerous 
 jagged islands. There must have been terrific volcanic 
 disturbances in past ages to have caused such strange 
 and fantastic formations. 
 
 KOBE JUNE 10 
 
 This is a beautiful harbor, surrounded by hills and 
 low mountains, making a very jagged horizon. They 
 are constructing a new pier here. This is the busiest 
 harbor yet. The principal shipping of Japan leaves 
 this dock. The cargo that we take away on this boat 
 is amazing. 
 
 The Japanese is not much liked because of his 
 cunning. He is clever, shrewd, always quick and 
 eager to learn, and he gives a kick for a kick, while 
 the meek Chinaman grieves and moans. 
 
 We stopped at the Oriental Hotel, a splendid place. 
 Later we visit the shops, buy kimonos, and drive all 
 over Kobe in a 'rickshaw. Once it rained, but after 
 the weather cleared and the sun shone, we took another 
 drive. We visit the waterfall, a beautiful cascade of 
 water. A wonderful sight were the lamps and lanterns, 
 and the school children with their books tied up in a 
 square cloth. Many Chinese children were here also. 
 
 We are now enroute to Yokohama.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 73 
 
 YOKOHAMA JUNE 12 
 
 It is a beautiful, warm, sunny Sunday morning. We 
 were so happy to land, and we left our home of six 
 weeks, the "York," without a regret. We went 
 through the customs fairly quickly, and took a 
 'rickshaw for the Oriental Hotel, a beautiful place, 
 elegantly furnished, with excellent Japanese cooking. 
 We occupied one room and a sun parlor, overlooking 
 the bay. W T e are gazing out over the blue Pacific 
 Ocean, where we will soon be on our way home. 
 
 The shops of Yokohama are fascinating they 
 fairly take one's breath. Wonderful crepes, soft and 
 clingy, in marvelous soft tints of every shade; em- 
 broideries beyond description, so beautiful and so 
 artistic; exquisite water colors; carved ivory and 
 silver filigree work to suit the most capricious and 
 artistic taste and temperament. 
 
 Mrs. McClure, with whom we traveled for three 
 weeks, has just sent to me at my hotel, a wonderful 
 bouquet of sweet peas and white roses, made in the 
 form of a chou, the roses in the center, and the 
 fragrant peas around them the most beautiful thing 
 of the kind I have ever seen. We go to the McClure's 
 for tiffin Friday. 
 
 TOKIO JUNE 24 
 
 Four hours' run from Yokohama. Tokio, the capi- 
 tal of Japan, is a beautiful city, with a population 
 of two million. The parks are lovely. In this 
 city there are five hundred miles of electric railway 
 lines, as against five hundred miles of steam railways 
 in Japan. The city spreads over quite a bit of ground; 
 all the buildings have but one story, on account of the 
 severe earthquakes. The entire city is strictly 
 up-to-date. The palace of the Emperor and Empress 
 is a beautiful edifice, surrounded by stone walls three 
 hundred and fifty years old, with a double gate 
 system, and a "moat," which means that the building
 
 74 ALINEADAY 
 
 is entirely surrounded by water, making it almost 
 inaccessible. 
 
 The streets are well cleaned, and every spot of this 
 charming little country is made attractive: the pine 
 trees are so rugged and beautiful, and the maples with 
 their small, delicate leaves, of a pallid greenish hue; 
 the cherry trees, with their peculiar bark, which is 
 almost red in color. The cherry tree of Japan is much 
 larger than the American variety, and blossoms the 
 first week in April, the blossoms coming before the 
 leaves. The blossoms are very much larger than ours, 
 and are double. They remain on the trees only three 
 days; the leaves appear a week or ten days later, 
 and within fifty days the fruit has come and gone. 
 The cherries are small and not very good, being 
 rather tasteless. The plums, peaches, pears and 
 apricots are very similar to our own. We found sun- 
 flowers growing here, which we promptly named 
 "Sister Indiana." To me, the most beautiful flower 
 of all is the iris. It is of every describable shade, and 
 some are double. It grows in marshy, wet places: 
 one sees it everywhere at this season of the year. 
 The lotus I should love to see, but they bloom in 
 August, opening with a pop before sunrise. The 
 flowers have a lovely perfume, and are very white, 
 something like our pond lilies. 
 
 The wistaria is very pretty here, and the nastur- 
 tiums cover the houses and porches like a vine. The 
 morning glory seems to be decidedly at home in this 
 region, and there is no end to the height it will grow. 
 It even covers entire trees. Everything is green here, 
 even to the mountain sides and everything is so fresh 
 and clean. 
 
 A sort of pigeon English is spoken everywhere. 
 The shops are very small, like the people and their 
 houses. The trees are small, and one finds low seats 
 everywhere. On the trains such funny little trains, 
 with very low seats the most uncomfortable vehicles 
 in all the world you can purchase a cup of tea, and
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 75 
 
 tea pot, for four cents, or two cents in American 
 money, and the outfit is yours. 
 
 KAMAKURA 
 
 A country town, about forty miles from Yokohama. 
 One travels through cultivated lands, innumerable 
 rice and vegetable farms, and through beautiful 
 wooded country. They train the trees on bamboo 
 arbors about five feet high, built directly under the 
 trees, and the result is a roof of leaves. They tie up 
 in paper sacks pears, peaches, apricots, while growing 
 on the tree, but before doing so, the farmer writes his 
 name, or that of his shop, on the fruit : this is in order 
 that the product may be preserved, and to keep Jthe 
 insects away. 
 
 The farms are small, but very attractive; the 
 dwellings are tiny, with thatched roofs, and beds of 
 lilies growing on the tops of them. 
 
 In Kamakura is the largest bronze Buddha, measur- 
 ing three and a half feet across the mouth. It is 
 six hundred and fifty years old, and is located in the 
 oldest temple in Japan, which is one thousand years 
 old. It is in a very dilapidated condition. The 
 bronze idol is way back of the temple, to add to the 
 mystery, but standing in the open, as the temple was 
 swept away by the sea some years ago and only the 
 foundation remains. The population of Japan 
 increases one-half million yearly. 
 
 KIOTO one night's run from Yokohama. We took 
 a sleeper, such a funny little sleeper as it was! Not 
 more than seven feet high Mr. Middleton touched 
 the top of it. The car was so uncomfortably short 
 that I could not undress, and slept in my clothes. Mr. 
 Middleton did not rest well . That night was long, indeed . 
 
 We arrived on a beautiful, sunny Sunday morning. 
 We had a guide in a native costume. A carriage with 
 two awaited us at the station, provided by the guide. 
 They seldom have occasion to display a carriage in this 
 locality, and we were stared at from every side.
 
 76 ALINEADAY 
 
 THE FOOTMAN. Never have I seen a man work so 
 hard! He was a tall fellow, with a pointed head, and 
 a serious sort of face seemingly, he had never smiled 
 in his life. His duty was to view every spot of the 
 way, to run ahead of the horses, shouting "A-hie! 
 A-hie!" At every crossing he ran ahead, stopped the 
 street cars, 'rickshaws, everything had to stop. I was 
 so absorbed in him, and the hard work he was doing 
 that I forgot to notice the sights. He even helped 
 hold the carriage back, going down hill. When not 
 doing any of these very strenuous things, which 
 rarely happened, he rode on a step in the back of the 
 vehicle. Mr. Middleton and I decided that the life of 
 a footman in the Orient is something awful indeed. 
 
 The driver was a stiff, stubby Jap, rather old; the 
 horse was good, and full of life, and the carriage quite 
 comfortable. It was a species of victoria, and had no 
 doubt once been very fine. 
 
 Kioto is very old and very " Jappy." So quiet, and 
 so like the descriptions one reads of old Japan. The 
 people lead a very peaceful and exclusive existence. 
 The shops all seem to be closed. There are no show 
 windows, and it is necessary to go in the back way, to 
 ascend a flight of bamboo stairs in the rear of one of 
 these small shops, to see the wonderful display of 
 whatever the merchant may handle. It is considered 
 very bad form to display one's wares in this very 
 conservative little town of Kioto. 
 
 Once in the store, a dozen little Japs jump up from 
 everywhere, exclaiming: "I wait you, please!" One 
 is simply carried away by their exquisite politeness 
 and their eagerness to please. 
 
 They have splendid assortments of Cloisonne, 
 china, porcelains, embroideries, cut velvet, damascene 
 ware, and lacquers, more expensive than jewels. We 
 bought some Japanese shoes, gaiters, as they are 
 called; also obis, which is the Japanese sash, bamboo 
 flower vases, canes, card cases, painted doilies, and 
 embroideries.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 77 
 
 We drove all over the city and stopped at the 
 Mikado Hotel, the most Japanese place we have been 
 in. The establishment is kept by Japanese, with 
 Japanese help, only. The waitresses were funny little 
 Jap girls, all painted up, and giggling. They looked 
 like toys. The food was well cooked. The dining 
 room was made entirely of paper and glass, lighted by 
 Japanese lanterns, hanging gracefully on every side. 
 The little waitresses, in their kimonos and obis, 
 formed a most charming picture. 
 
 The hotel, built on a mountain side, commands 
 a delightful view of the city. We had our coffee on 
 the porch, overlooking the town; it was delightfully 
 cool, and away in the distance we could see the snowy 
 crests of the mountains. We can only think of some 
 fairy tale, as we idly sit and dream. 
 
 Our room is a charming paper apartment, with 
 sliding paper doors, bamboo furniture, drapery of 
 pretty mosquito net, with pink and white iris painted 
 on it. Everything is so fresh and dainty. We open 
 our little window and sliding doors out on to the 
 balcony. The knobs are beautiful red Japanese silk 
 tassels. 
 
 Considerable manufacturing is done here, although 
 the place seems so quiet. Tomorrow we leave, to ride 
 back to Yokohama by daylight. 
 
 We leave Sunday morning for Yokohama, a day's 
 journey. We ride all day through a beautiful country, 
 passing hundreds of rice fields, and picturesque mills, 
 short distances apart, where the natives are working 
 in water above their knees, women with babies on 
 their backs included. Their little homes are very 
 attractive, and so clean! We saw the tea growing 
 a beautiful sight. It grows on a low bush-like shrub, 
 like a hedge, so green and pretty, in all sorts of 
 crooked patches on the mountain sides. 
 
 These queer little odd shaped patches were visible 
 everywhere, and Mr. Middleton was more enthusiastic 
 over them than anything else. The mountain scenery
 
 78 ALINEADAY 
 
 was very refreshing, and all the vegetation was a 
 verdant green. We saw many picturesque creeks, 
 streams and waterfalls. The day passed almost before 
 we knew it. We had a shower, as this is the Japanese 
 brea-ny-brea, or rainy season. A shower is almost 
 a daily occurrence. 
 
 RICE 
 
 This is the month (June) when the Japanese plant 
 their rice. It is planted in small patches, very close 
 together, in rows about four inches apart, on irrigated 
 land, entirely covered by water. It grows about six 
 inches high, and looks like our chives. The land 
 looks like a crazy quilt; they build high banks around 
 these fields, letting the water in and out, and then 
 they stir the whole thing up until it looks like a mud 
 pie, and plant the rice by hand, standing in this mud 
 over their knees. The rice remains almost covered 
 with water for three months. In September and 
 October, the water is drained off, the sun dries the 
 stalks like wheat, and then it is threshed through a 
 crude mill, where the outer coat is taken off the rice. 
 The rice crop of Japan is worth two million dollars 
 annually. The finest rice in the world is cultivated 
 here. The natives sell the good rice, and import a 
 cheaper grade from China for their own use. 
 
 However, the tea of India and China is superior to 
 that of Japan. Life on a Japanese farm is very hard, 
 as everything is done by hand, even to threshing the 
 wheat by hand on straw mats. 
 
 Mr. Middleton has just made the acquaintance of 
 Mr. Frank Pixley, one of the composers of the "Prince 
 of Pilsen." He is here writing a play a charming 
 spot to get inspiration, I fancy. 
 
 FUJIYAMA JUNE 11 
 
 We are sailing, drifting along the rocky coast of 
 Japan, and behold in the distance the famous and 
 beautiful baby mountain, Fujiyama, capped with
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 79 
 
 eternal snow. It is engraved, painted, embroidered 
 and carved on everything one sees. 
 
 As I sit here on deck, dreaming, writing, thinking, 
 on this glorious summer day, I make peace with my 
 heart by promising, O, land of poetry and flowers, to 
 some day be your devoted dweller, with your majestic 
 green forests, your cherry trees, your gorgeous carpet 
 of flowers, your fruits and vegetables to charm the 
 most capricious taste! O, Japan, precious land, 
 balmy land of peace and comfort ! 
 
 ODE TO THE OCEAN 
 
 For days yes, one hundred and twenty of them, 
 I have listened to your eternal swish, swish, swish! 
 What can you desire, restless, wonderful, monstrous, 
 trackless plain, as you roll on forever? Surely much 
 of this earth's territory is your own four-fifths, they 
 say, so why do you toss and rage? Tell me, I pray 
 you ! For days I have lived thus, hoping to know you 
 better, to fathom the mystery you conceal in your 
 pearly depths, but, alas, you only appeal to me in 
 your glorious coloring and your ceaseless changes ! 
 
 Lash on, silvery, swirling waves! It is certain you 
 have moved thus since the beginning of time. May 
 you ever continue to gladden the heart of the weary 
 traveler, as he goes on his way. 
 
 We are resting, gathering our things together, and 
 looking out over the blue Pacific, on this, our last night 
 in Japan this trip. For we hope to visit this land 
 again. Japan and its shores have a great attrac- 
 tion for us both it is the one place that we feel that 
 we should like to see once more. The sense of the 
 beautiful and artistic pervades the very atmos- 
 phere, and fairly carries one away. The people have 
 such happy faces ; they sing so merrily all day, working 
 all the while. Busy, happy and clean, three of God's 
 choicest blessings. 
 
 We have such beautiful sweet peas in our apartment 
 so fragrant and so pretty.
 
 80 ALINEADAY 
 
 The Chiyo-maru (which means earth-boat) is a 
 large, new vessel, a year and a half old. The crew is 
 Japanese, with an American captain, whom we have 
 named "Splendid Captain Greene." The captain has 
 a chow dog, which is always w T ith him. This animal 
 has such a friendly disposition and has wagged his 
 tail so much that he has worn all the hair off his back. 
 
 We dance in the evening. The boat rolls a great 
 deal, but the dancers do not seem to mind that in the 
 least. We had a very heavy fog the first day out, 
 which made it exceedingly damp and disagreeable. 
 I, as usual, kept to my berth, to my intense disgust. 
 We dine at the Captain's table, and we have most 
 charming table companions a Reverend and Mrs. 
 Brown, Mr. and Mrs. Harper and Mr. and Mrs. Fox. 
 We have so enjoyed them all. They are all of Cali- 
 fornia, and are ever singing the beauties of that state. 
 
 Mr. Middleton plays roulette. The Chinese own 
 the wheel, and it is extremely interesting to watch 
 them gamble. We have a Baron on board. A salute 
 was fired in his honor as we left the harbor of 
 Yokohama. 
 
 The weather is warm. Each day this tub makes 
 from three hundred and fifty to three hundred and 
 eighty-five miles. We will reach Honolulu on Satur- 
 day so we all hope. We have Japanese deck sports 
 as an evening entertainment: wrestling, singing funny 
 songs wong-tong-hong-sing-song affairs. It is very 
 enjoyable. Fortunately, passengers on ship board are 
 quite easily amused they would laugh at a sardine. 
 There are always a few about to help amuse. Other 
 deck sports are potato racing, fencing with bamboo 
 poles for swords, tugs-of-war, bag races, when the 
 contestants hop along with their legs tied in bags; 
 spoon and egg races, when they run about the deck 
 with a table spoon with an egg in it; when any one 
 drops the egg he loses the race. 
 
 We spent a whole day at these deck sports and the 
 time passed quickly and pleasantly. I have just
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 81 
 
 about read my eyes out. We have made many plans 
 for the future. Monday, the twenty-eighth, is forty- 
 eight hours long. We crossed the meridian, making 
 two Mondays. It is so that, sailing from San 
 Francisco, one loses a day, and returning around the 
 world, one gains a day. 
 
 We have so many lovely people on board, and 
 plenty of all sorts of games and sports. Dancing to 
 phonograph is not half bad. 
 
 It has certainly been a long ten days, and I am eager 
 for the land. Everything is moving just the same. 
 Everybody knows everybody, and we visit and chat. 
 We have had another day of deck sports, in which the 
 passengers participated lighting cigarette races, tug 
 o' war, shoe races, ladies' whistling races, etc. 
 
 We woke this morning to see land at last 
 Honolulu, Hawaii. We were to land at ten-thirty, 
 but were quarantined just outside the harbor, as we 
 have a sick Japanese boy on board. It was two-thirty 
 when we went ashore, and then only after all sorts of 
 rumors had circulated to the effect that we were to be 
 quarantined two weeks. 
 
 Honolulu is certainly a beautiful spot. We took 
 a motor, with Mr. and Mrs. Honingsberg, their son 
 and maid nurse, and went all over the city. The boule- 
 vards are lovely. We drove through pineapple 
 groves, sugar cane brakes, and rice fields, to a very 
 fine point, where we had a wonderful view of the 
 surrounding islands. This point is called Piali. The 
 island is two miles wide and ninety miles long. It is 
 summer here, but one always has cool, refreshing 
 breezes, and every day the highlands receive a few 
 sprinkles of rain. We went to the Manao Hotel, 
 where the people go surf boating and bathing. They 
 rush through the waves in small canoes; the tide and 
 waves dash madly over them; they are lost to sight 
 and a moment later they come up again, riding the 
 waves a most thrilling sight.
 
 82 ALINEADAY 
 
 We had dinner at Young's Hotel. A nice hotel, and 
 an excellent dinner. They served millet, a fish caught 
 in these waters, and a true delicacy; prickly pear 
 salad; chicken paprika, a Hawaiian dish for which 
 they are famous here, and delicious pineapple for 
 dessert. We returned to the vessel to sleep, but 
 intend to go ashore in the morning for a while. 
 
 JULY 2 
 
 We sail at eleven-thirty. Early in the morning we 
 take a walk around the city. Honolulu is a quite 
 up-to-date American city. We see very few natives. 
 The women wear mother hubbards. Some of them 
 are fancy, but they are atrocious things, especially 
 when they blow up. The gong is calling us to lunch. 
 There is a baseball club here. A number of players 
 have come from Japan to Honolulu to play ball, and 
 there is a great deal of fuss made over them. 
 
 Our next, and last port is San Francisco Home! 
 
 Home! Blessed word, with a wealth of wonderful 
 meaning! W T herever our feet may wander, strange to 
 say, our hearts always cling to that loved spot 
 Home! The chain of distance sometimes reaches far, 
 but Fate, kind Fate, keeps the precious links from 
 breaking, and ere we know it, our weary footsteps are 
 once more turned toward home our native land! 
 It is best so, for a soul without the fire of patriotism 
 and the love of kindred is dead and lost! 
 
 Ah, it is life to feel the heart beat, and the blood 
 surge madly through each pulse, as we reach our 
 native shore! Poor, indeed, is he who has never felt 
 this thrill, on returning to our own, our very own, 
 our native land! It matters not whence you come 
 the feeling is the same. Forever let me live and dwell, 
 contented, in my own dear country ! Let me say, and 
 let me feel, that I belong to America, the land of the 
 free!
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 88 
 
 FOURTH OF JULY ON BOARD THE 
 CHIYO-MARU 
 
 The sea is very quiet. We had an exhibition of 
 daylight fireworks at eleven o'clock. We had two 
 addresses, from Reverend Brown, a splendid orator 
 with a fine voice, and the Hon. Robert J. Burdette. 
 Mr. Burdette spoke of our many blessings, and of the 
 great inventive geniuses of the day and their dis- 
 coveries and exploits the aeroplane, the newest 
 electrical wonders, wireless cablegrams, etc. 
 
 Rev. Brown spoke on the history of America, her 
 future, and her political disgraces. A young lady, 
 a Miss Plutt, read the Declaration of Independence. 
 We all sang "My Country, 'tis of Thee," and the 
 "Star Spangled Banner," and with flags flying gaily 
 on all sides, the spirit of the day was perfect, espe- 
 cially as we all felt that we were nearing home, "the 
 land of the free and the brave." 
 
 For our Fourth of July dinner we had all the 
 delicacies of the season, including a Chiyo-maru cake, 
 which was a fruit cake, artistically decorated in red, 
 white, and blue, served by the excellent captain. 
 Captain Green is, without a doubt, the most hospi- 
 table and courteous of captains it has ever been our 
 lot to meet. We shall certainly never forget him, or 
 his faithful Chow. 
 
 "Chow" is Chinese for dog. They are born in 
 Manchuria, are yellow in color, and very shaggy. 
 Some of them are black, but the brown ones are the 
 best breeds. They have long tails, which they carry 
 curled over their backs in a graceful cue. They are 
 one man's dog, and obey only the one master. 
 
 Each day the ocean blue looks better to us, as we 
 near our own dear shore. We are busy getting our 
 customs' lists ready; everybody else is doing likewise. 
 We fear we will have to go into quarantine outside of 
 San Francisco, but we all hope for the best. Tomorrow 
 night, Thursday, we will send mother a wireless that 
 we are well, and near "our own, our native land."
 
 84 ALINEADAY 
 
 FRIDAY JULY 8 
 
 We were a long time landing, but it was enjoyable 
 to see dear old San Francisco, built at the foot, and 
 on the sides of a range of young mountains. We 
 entered through a dense fog, and missed the beautiful 
 sight of the Golden Gate. Our captain brought the 
 boat in alone. He could not see to pick up the pilot. 
 I slept in my clothing all night, and Mr. Middleton 
 was very anxious, as there have been many accidents 
 on this coast, in sight of land one only a few days 
 before we arrived. 
 
 Going through the customs was the experience of a 
 lifetime people pushing madly every which way, 
 everything in a wild confusion, opening trunks, 
 hammering boxes, trunks falling, things missing, men 
 swearing, women gasping for breath, with their hats 
 on one ear, some smiling, some complaining, some 
 putting powder on in the midst of it all. 
 
 At last our turn came the passengers were taken 
 in alphabetical order. Two inspectors for M arrived 
 to go through our boxes, bags, and trunks, seven in 
 number. With poor Mr. Middleton hustling in every 
 direction, it was quite an exciting time. They were 
 all very kind to us. Mr. Middleton was so gentle- 
 manly and honest that they reduced our list one-half. 
 They asked where we were from, where we had been, 
 and how long. We carried away a lasting and pleasant 
 impression of the customs officers of the Pacific coast. 
 They did their duty thoroughly, but in a genteel way. 
 However, many people were handled much more 
 roughly than we were. 
 
 Oh, the joy of the little stickers pasted on each 
 article that set us free ! We climbed into a 'bus for the 
 Palace Hotel. When we left the customs house I had 
 all the boxes and bags that I could possibly carry; 
 Mr. Middleton was loaded heavily; there was a truck 
 full of baggage, and another man loaded down. 
 
 As we left the building, a wonderfully cool, refresh- 
 ing breeze fanned us one sweep that I shall never
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 85 
 
 forget. We found it very invigorating, as we rolled 
 on to the Palace Hotel, our new home. Great tears 
 stood in the eyes of both of us, mingled joy and 
 sorrow. It seemed so strange not to see mother when 
 we reached this side. Our mail was overwhelming; 
 we had such lovely wires and letters from every one 
 we knew, welcoming us home. 
 
 We have tried to rest and unpack, resting and 
 working each day in turn. It is so delightfully cool 
 here that we cannot wear our summer clothing. We 
 wear two overcoats in the motor, and sleep under two 
 pairs of blankets each night. Time passes quietly and 
 pleasantly. We have rented a motor car and are 
 going to visit all the environs of San Francisco. 
 
 We have visited Columbus, San Jose, Palo Alto, 
 Del Monte, Monterey, Santa Cruz, Clairemont, 
 Berkeley, Mt. Tamaulipas and Santa Clara. Also 
 the huge redwood trees, some of them sixty-five 
 feet in circumference and three hundred and fifty feet 
 high. It is a wonderful trip among these glorious 
 mountains clothed in cedar trees. They look like 
 Christmas trees. San Juan Hill is a very picturesque 
 mountain. The climb to the top is quite an exciting 
 one, and the view from the summit is beautiful. 
 
 This is a wonderful trip. We saw numberless fruit 
 orchards, peaches, apricots, pears, plums, luxuriant 
 grapes, and berries of all varieties. Lovely flowers 
 and clinging vines, and myriads of roses, each variety 
 more beautiful than the other. 
 
 We have made some delightful friends, and have had 
 some lovely home dinners. Western hospitality 
 certainly is not lacking in any way. It is relative to 
 the climate and natural beauties. The lovely, shady 
 drives, the good roads, the restful beauty of the 
 scenery, and our contented minds, have combined to 
 make our visit here a soothing balm to our travel- 
 fatigued spirits. 
 
 After three delightful weeks, we are packing up to 
 move on, with pleasant memories and sincere regrets.
 
 86 ALINEADAY 
 
 AUGUST 3 SANTA BARBARA, THE NICE 
 OF AMERICA 
 
 We are journeying through the Riviera of America, 
 comprising the cities of Santa Barbara, Pasadena, 
 Riverside, and Los Angeles. This region is a bower of 
 roses at this time of year, when other places are burned 
 up by the scorching sun. The Potter Hotel is a 
 beautiful place, with charming grounds, or rather a 
 park, surrounding it. Many refined people abide 
 here; autos are continually dashing in and out, golf 
 players coming and going, and horses cantering on the 
 excellent roads. One can hear their hoofs in the 
 distance, which is certainly delightful music. The 
 green, velvety lawn, with its millions of brilliant 
 scarlet geraniums, overlooking the blue water, is a 
 most restful sight on this August day, when all the 
 east is sweltering in the heat. The mountains seem 
 almost close enough to touch. 
 
 Santa Barbara is thrice blessed nature has not 
 only been generous, but man and money have mate- 
 rially assisted in making this spot as perfect as a place 
 can be. Quietude reigns throughout the city, and the 
 whole place gives one a feeling of having stepped off 
 the world. 
 
 We are about to depart for Los Angeles and 
 Pasadena, and hope to find them as charming as San 
 Francisco and Santa Barbara. 
 
 We are off for Los Angeles, the "City of Angels." 
 However, Mr. Middleton says they are not all angels, 
 by any means, as there are many real estate men there 
 who are far from deserving that saintly title. It is 
 a very warm day, but tempered by delightfully cool 
 breezes. We arrive at two-thirty p. m., and go to the 
 Hotel Alexandria, another of America's modern 
 homes for the delectation of the weary globe trotter, 
 so comfortable, so clean, and centrally located. Lovely 
 people coming and going all the while. 
 
 We rent a motor to see this city and Pasadena, and 
 visit the residence districts and all the suburban towns.
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 87 
 
 We fall in love with a charming house in South 
 Pasadena, and buy it within five days. We have 
 worked hard, fitting the place up with electric lights, 
 a range, and changing the decorations, but we are 
 both very pleased and happy with the thought of a 
 home here, where summer is eternal, flowers blooming 
 always, where the lovely cool breezes from the sea 
 embrace the breezes of the mountains for our comfort. 
 
 We are off to the east, which we still style home, to 
 see those whom we love, and who love us. We will 
 soon arrive in Chicago dear old dirty city! City 
 where my dreams of happiness, as well as sorrows, 
 were born, and joys at last completed. Once more 
 we will behold your familiar streets, your busy shops 
 and corners, your parks, and travel over them again, 
 with the old life behind us, on the eve of a new life 
 and a new world. 
 
 I had intended to keep this "line a day" until 
 I reached New York, but alas, that day is now far 
 distant! I shall end now. From Chicago we will go 
 to mother's, which chapter shall finish our trip around 
 the world. 
 
 AUGUST 22 
 
 On the Los Angeles and Salt Lake, bound for 
 Chicago.
 
 Addenda 
 
 WATERLOO 
 
 It is hard to realize, as one contemplates the green, 
 peaceful plain of Mont St. Jean, commonly called 
 the plain of Waterloo, that on a sunny Sunday morn- 
 ing, the eighteenth of June, 1815, two mighty armies 
 stood face to face ; that this was the scene of a clash of 
 giants, whose outcome altered the map of Europe. 
 
 Here is the farm house of La Belle Alliance, the 
 Emperor's headquarters ; there the monument marking 
 the spot where the Imperial Guard, under the gallant 
 Marechal Ney, made its last heroic stand; the plateau 
 of Mont St. Jean, held by the English forces, they had 
 the advantage of an elevated position, and half way 
 down the slope, the sunken road of Ohain a grave, 
 because, at a decisive moment, when Napoleon 
 perceived that Wellington had fallen back, he decided 
 to complete the repulse by a crushing charge, and 
 ordered the cuirassiers of the guard, the flower of his 
 army, to carry the plateau of Mont St. Jean. The 
 sunken road did not make a wrinkle on the surface of 
 the slope, and when the Emperor questioned the 
 peasant guide regarding any obstructions that might 
 impede their progress, received the answer: "No." 
 It may almost be said that from that shake of a 
 peasant's head came the catastrophe of Napoleon. 
 
 The mighty force advanced to the very brink of the 
 precipice the leaders reared back with a dreadful 
 clamor; in vain! The irresistible force from behind 
 pushed horses and riders into a common grave; when 
 it was full of living men, the rest rode over them and 
 passed on. Although reduced by a third, the remain- 
 ing forces fought with the frenzy of despair; but the 
 arrival of the Prussians under Blucher, at nightfall, 
 decided the battle. It was a crushing defeat, followed 
 by a pitiless route. The eagle of France was humbled
 
 90 A LINE A D AY 
 
 to the dust. What must have been the thoughts of 
 the fallen colossus, as, haggard and gloomy, he took 
 the road to France in the gathering darkness, with the 
 shattered remnant of that once invincible army? 
 
 VERSAILLES 
 
 This beautiful residence of the royal family of 
 France is situated about ten miles from Paris, in the 
 midst of an extensive plain. Until the middle of the 
 Seventeenth century it was only a small village, but 
 at that time Louis XIV determined to build on this 
 spot a residence worthy of the grandeur of his throne. 
 Seven years and something like one hundred million 
 dollars were spent in completing the palace, garden 
 and park. Nothing was spared by him or his suc- 
 cessors to make it the most magnificent residence of 
 Europe. Here are reservoirs, fountains, gardens, 
 groves, conservatories, an orangery, cascades, and 
 every embellishment that taste, skill and money could 
 devise. 
 
 The front of the palace is of polished stone, orna- 
 mented with statues, and is approached by three 
 magnificent avenues, shaded by stately trees, leading 
 from Paris, Versailles, and St. Cloud. Connected with 
 the main edifice are some fifteen projecting buildings, 
 making almost a small city in itself. Eight thousand 
 people were often accommodated here at one time. 
 
 Noted gardeners, engineers, and architects were 
 employed in the construction of the beautiful park, 
 with its spacious walks, velvety lawns, stately trees, 
 and some of the most handsome and costly fountains 
 to be seen anywhere. Some of the statuary 
 distributed through the parks, and decorating the 
 fountains, are masterpieces in themselves. 
 
 The interior is worthy of this enchanting park. The 
 grand salons, with their rich gilding, and superb 
 painting have almost all been restored to their original 
 splendor. The palace has been converted into a
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 91 
 
 museum of French History, and many galleries are 
 filled entirely with paintings depicting great events 
 in the varied and interesting history of France, while 
 the apartments, rich in historical associations, are a 
 lesson in themselves. 
 
 One sees the charming white and gold room, once 
 occupied by the ill-fated Marie Antoinette, and the 
 little recess adjoining it, where the Queen granted 
 private audiences, and where Gluck and other musi- 
 cians whom she patronized, performed for her delecta- 
 tion. Also the staircase by which she fled when the 
 mob invaded the palace in 1789 the beginning of the 
 end of French royalty. The Hall of the Oeil de Boeuf, 
 so called from the striking oval-shaped window, was 
 the ante-room to the king's apartments, where the 
 courtiers assembled awaiting an audience. The 
 Clock Room is so called from the time-piece placed 
 here in 1749, which is a marvel of mechanism, showing 
 the days, months, phases of the moon, etc. The case 
 is of wrought bronze. The admirably furnished and 
 decorated private study of Louis XV, from one of the 
 windows of which he watched the funeral procession of 
 his mistress, Mme. de Pompadour. In the gorgeous 
 Hall of the Council some of the most important affairs 
 of State of the Eighteenth century were decided, 
 and also the "Presentation" ceremony of ladies 
 newly admitted to the court. The grand gallery of 
 mirrors, where seventeen immense windows overlook 
 the park, and seventeen corresponding mirrors on the 
 opposite wall, joined with wrought copper. In the 
 time of Louis XIV it possessed two beautiful carpets of 
 Savonnerie, and curtains of damask and gold brocade, 
 sumptuous furniture, and bowls, vases, candelabra, 
 and orange boxes of silver, fashioned by the most 
 skilled artisans. 
 
 Within the precincts of the park are the Grand and 
 Petit Trianon, the first built during the reign of Louis 
 XIV, and the latter erected by Louis XV for Madame 
 du Barri. But it is more closely associated with
 
 92 ALINEADAY 
 
 Marie Antoinette, who had a charming English garden 
 laid out, and frequently came to this spot with a few 
 dear friends to lead a quiet rural life, in the simplicity 
 she so loved, away from the pomp and trying etiquette 
 of the Court. 
 
 MALMAISON 
 
 The chateau of Malmaison, in the vicinity of Paris, 
 was purchased by the Empress Josephine, then 
 Madame Bonaparte, for the sum of one hundred and 
 sixty thousand francs, in April, 1799. Subsequently, 
 the grounds were enlarged, the interior altered and 
 redecorated at an enormous expense, with the result 
 that Malmaison became a charming retreat, where 
 the illustrious owners passed some of the happiest 
 hours of their checkered and brilliant career. 
 
 Marie Josephe-Rose Tascher de la Pagerie was 
 a Creole, a native of Martinique. At an early age she 
 became the wife of the Vicomte de Beauharnais, and 
 the mother of two children, Eugene, the Viceroy of 
 Italy, and Hortense, future queen of Holland. At 
 the death of her husband, during the revolution, 
 and her own narrow escape from a similar fate, she 
 found herself in dire straits. After the attack on the 
 then ruling Convention, the populace had been dis- 
 armed by order of the city authorities. Madame 
 Beauharnais, however, sent her son to General 
 Bonaparte, to beg that the sword of his father might 
 be restored to them. The request was granted: 
 a meeting and introduction between the Widow 
 Beauharnais and the rising young soldier soon fol- 
 lowed. To the Corsican, accustomed to the 
 atmosphere of the barracks, and the society of 
 grisettes, the languishing Creole, with her charming 
 manners, was indeed a grande dame. He was fas- 
 cinated, violently enamoured: as her position was 
 more than uncertain, and as the rising young general 
 had just been appointed to the command of the Army
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 93 
 
 of Italy, and had either death or glory before him, 
 she accepted his offer of marriage. They were 
 wedded March 9, 1796; Napoleon departed for Italy 
 two days later. Every day during the strenuous 
 campaign he sent a passionate letter to his bride, 
 sometimes only a note scrawled without leaving his 
 saddle. Josephine, in a swirl of gaiety, surrounded by 
 flatterers and admirers, laughingly exhibited these 
 missives to her friends, with the remark: "Bonaparte 
 is so queer." During his absence in Egypt she was 
 notoriously unfaithful to him, the recipient of her 
 favors being a fascinating young aide-de-camp, by 
 name Hy polite Charles. It was later that she realized 
 the wisdom of devoting herself to the practise of 
 conjugal fidelity, when "ma bonne Josephine" 
 studiously developed all the estimable qualities which 
 she knew were requisite to the happiness of her 
 husband. 
 
 Josephine's ruling passion was botany. In her 
 gardens and conservatories she had an unrivaled 
 collection of rare and beautiful plants, and introduced 
 about one hundred and eighty species hitherto 
 unknown in Europe. Bridges, artificial rocks, groves, 
 cascades, fountains and lakes embellished the parks. 
 Rare black swans glided about on the rippling streams ; 
 a collection of beautiful tame animals animated the 
 scene, the jewel of the assembly being an orang- 
 outang, dressed in the extreme of fashion, happy only 
 when sitting down to table with his mistress. 
 
 The indolent Creole led a life of delightful ease. 
 She changed her costume five or six times a day; 
 at one time her wardrobe contained six hundred 
 dresses. While not pretty, and having bad teeth, 
 which were a constant source of mortification, she was 
 remarkably graceful, dressed with exquisite taste, and 
 possessed an irresistible charm of manner that won all 
 hearts. Always kind hearted, she dispensed immense 
 sums in charity. 
 
 Here the First Consul laid aside the robe of state,
 
 94 ALINEADAY 
 
 and played at blind man's buff and prisoner's base 
 on the green lawns with the gay crowd that Josephine 
 loved to assemble. The leading spirits were Eugene, 
 and Josephine's daughter, Hortense, afterwards 
 wedded to Napoleon's brother, Louis, and the mother 
 of Napoleon III. To the end Josephine was followed 
 by the inveterate hatred of Napoleon's brothers and 
 sisters, who seemed to regard her as an interloper who 
 was depriving them of their legitimate property. 
 
 Here the ex-empress retired after the divorce in 
 1809, and for a time lived quietly among her beloved 
 flowers, and surrounded by a congenial circle of 
 friends. She received several visits from the Emperor, 
 who sometimes brought the little King of Rome, his 
 son by the Archduchess Marie Louise, of Austria. 
 
 When the allies invaded France, in 1814, and 
 appeared in the vicinity of Malmaison after the fall 
 of Paris, and the banishment of Napoleon to Elba, 
 she fled to one of the other retreats given her by the 
 Emperor. But the conquerors summoned her back, 
 and once more she was the center of a charmed circle. 
 On the twenty-third of May, 1814, she contracted 
 a severe cold, while attending a function in honor of 
 the King of Prussia, and the Emperors of Russia and 
 Austria. She became steadily worse, and breathed 
 her last on the twenty-ninth. Her last words were 
 "He d'Elbe Napoleon!" 
 
 She reposes under a monument in the little church 
 of Rueil, where she is represented kneeling in her 
 coronation robes. The tomb was erected by the 
 devoted Hortense and Eugene. 
 
 Here the fallen Emperor passed a short time in 1815, 
 between the crushing defeat at Waterloo and his 
 final departure to exile and death. He wandered 
 through the domains where he had spent so many 
 happy hours, and lingered alone for a time in the 
 apartment where Josephine passed away thirteen 
 months before. Descending, he bade farewell to 
 Hortense one of the few who had remained faithful,
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 95 
 
 and his eldest brother, Joseph, and wended his way 
 by the council room, the dining room, vestibule and 
 drawbridge, to the south gate, where a simple carriage 
 waited, cast one last look at Malmaison, sprang into 
 the coach, which rapidly disappeared in the forest. 
 Here is a stone, which formerly bore the traces of 
 a footstep and a bronze eagle, and the inscription : 
 
 The last footprint of Napoleon 
 
 leaving for Rochefort 
 
 on June 29, 1815, 
 
 at four o'clock in the afternoon 
 
 The rooms of the chateau are elegantly and taste- 
 fully furnished. In the handsome drawing room, in 
 white, green, and gold, is the marble mantelpiece 
 presented to Josephine by Pius VIII, at the time of 
 the coronation, in 1804, on which is a handsome 
 marble bust of the Empress; a number of beautiful 
 pieces of Sevres porcelain; the mahogany card table 
 of the Empress, and her embroidery frame and work 
 table, two commodities which she seldom used. It 
 was in this room that the captivating Josephine gave 
 her numerous soirees. 
 
 In the bathroom is the dressing case of the Empress, 
 with a complete toilette set in gilt and mother of 
 pearl, and a miniature of the Emperor. The case is of 
 yew- wood, mahogany, and hollywood, with ornaments 
 of steel, and was given to her by the City of Paris 
 on the occasion of her coronation. 
 
 The Emperor's apartment, hung in gray, is 
 unfurnished. 
 
 The bedroom of the Empress is draped in red; the 
 India muslin curtains of the carved wood bed are 
 worked in gold. Here one sees the elegant lavabo 
 of mahogany, with water jug and hand basin of 
 Sevres porcelain in blue and gold; a round mahogany 
 table with a top of red porphyry, enclosed in bronze; 
 a small writing table of mahogany and gray maple, 
 inlaid with black wood and pewter, with initials J. B. ; 
 a writing desk, surmounted by a tiny bronze statue in
 
 96 ALINE A DAY 
 
 antique green; on the white marble mantelpiece are 
 several beautiful marble and porcelain ornaments; 
 before the fireplace is a magnificent fire screen, sup- 
 posed by some to have been embroidered by 
 Josephine; by others it is thought to be the work of 
 the pupils of St. Cyr; a vase, with a bouquet of 
 colored flowers, and a bird on either side, are em- 
 broidered on a ground of white satin; two couches and 
 six armchairs, in gilded wood, tapestried in red 
 cloth, ornamented with the letter J in gold embroidery : 
 at the head of the bed, concealed beneath the hangings, 
 is the door of the chest where Josephine kept her 
 money and splendid collection of jewels. 
 
 In the concert room, not yet refurnished, is the harp 
 once used by the Empress, although it is said that she 
 only played one simple air, learned with difficulty. 
 In the library, used by Napoleon as his private study, 
 is his mahogany bureau, a green velvet armchair 
 worn out by continued use, and a curious, boat- 
 shaped piece of furniture, with cleverly concealed 
 openings, where the Emperor kept his private papers. 
 In the dining room is the magnificent silver gilt service 
 presented to the Emperor on the occasion of his 
 coronation, by the City of Paris. It numbers twenty- 
 six pieces, and was first used at the Imperial banquet 
 at the Hotel de Ville, in 1804. 
 
 FONTAINEBLEAU 
 
 Few buildings in France appeal to the romantic and 
 historical imagination as does the beautiful palace of 
 Fontainebleau, in the magnificent forest of the same 
 name, where formerly the splendid royal hunts were 
 held. Here poplars, chestnuts, maple, larch, birch, 
 oaks and junipers flourish in abundance. 
 
 Much of the beauty of the interior is owing to the 
 gallant King Francis I, who gloried in patronizing all 
 of the most noted artists of the day Leonardo de 
 Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, and the Florentine goldsmith,
 
 AROUND THE WORLD 97 
 
 Benvenuto Cellini. Here are many mementoes of the 
 lovely Diana de Poitiers, who bewitched two monarchs 
 Francis I and Henri II. The envious even 
 attributed this charm to sorcery. 
 
 Catherine de Medici, wife of Henri II, brought a 
 taste for the beautiful and a passion for building from 
 her native Florence, and aided much in embellishing 
 the palace. 
 
 The chapel, the scene of so many noted royal mar- 
 riages and baptisms, was built by Henri IV, of beloved 
 memory. It is said that the Spanish ambassador once 
 made a sarcastic comment on the mean appearance of 
 the original building, and Henri, with his ever ready 
 wit, retorted : " The French do not, like the Spaniards, 
 confine God between four walls only; He is enshrined 
 in their hearts as well." But the taunt had its effect 
 and the present chapel is the result. 
 
 Here the terrible Madame de Maintenon reigned 
 in gloomy splendor, secretly married to Louis XIV, 
 who was as wax in her hands of steel; this was the 
 refuge of Marie Henriette, the widow of Charles I, 
 of England, and the scene of a tragedy that startled 
 Europe, when the eccentric Queen Christina, of 
 Sweden, had her chamberlain, Monaldeschi, wantonly 
 murdered in one of the galleries, for having, as she 
 said, shown some of her letters. She sent Cardinal 
 Mazarin a very saucy letter, when that dignitary dared 
 to remonstrate with her, in the name of his royal 
 master. 
 
 On this scene the Marquise de Pompadour reigned 
 as the uncrowned queen of France. She was a splendid 
 equestrienne, and first attracted the notice of Louis 
 XV, as she was speeding through the neighboring 
 woods, in a velvet riding habit of a brilliant blue 
 known as 1'oeil de roi, but later called bleu Pompadour. 
 Greedy, ambitious, unscrupulous, and cruel she was 
 nevertheless a woman of talent and ability. It was 
 she who first encouraged and took under the royal
 
 98 ALINEADAY 
 
 patronage the famous Sevres porcelain and Gobelin 
 tapestry works. 
 
 She was succeeded in time by the light-hearted and 
 pleasure-loving Madame du Barri, who, with all her 
 extravagance and folly, never meddled with politics, 
 nor caused a person to be sent to the Bastile, like her 
 haughty predecessor. At Luciennes, the little retreat 
 given this charming courtesan by her royal admirer, is 
 seen the tiny kitchen, where Louis, the "bien aime," 
 delighted to prepare her chocolate with his own hands, 
 and serve it in the dainty boudoir where cardinals and 
 high dignitaries of the realm contended for the honor 
 of putting the slipper on the little white foot of Marie 
 Jeanne Vaubernier, erstwhile milliner's apprentice. 
 
 But to return to Fontainebleau. The lovely 
 boudoir of Marie Antoinette is a model of the artistic 
 skill of that age. The palace was a favorite residence 
 of the first Napoleon. Here he held Charles IV of 
 Spain a prisoner for a short time in 1808; and in 1812, 
 having quarried with Pope Pius VII, and annexed 
 the Roman States, he seized him and detained him at 
 Fontainebleau until 1814. 
 
 In the same year, when the allied armies captured 
 Paris, he retired to this memorable scene of his 
 former grandeur. One sees the room, and the table 
 on which he wrote his abdication from the throne of 
 France, and where he later made a futile attempt to 
 end his life. Also the Cour des Adieux, where, on 
 April 20, 1814, after a touching farewell to his Old 
 Guard, he left Fontainebleau for the last time, on his 
 way to Elba.