s'^ ^onfinenfaf ^exxe^.
No. 1.
r
Physical Configuration
OF
he Australian Continent.
. With Illustrative Maps and Diagrams.
ERNEST FAVENC.
riLLiAM Brooks & Co. Ltd., Sydney and Brisbai^i.
1905.
J
Comprehensive View, in relief, of tK
Continent of Australia.
o
^roofts's ^onfinenfaC §exie^.
No. 1.
The Physical Configuration
OF
The Australian Continent.
With Illustrative Maps and Diagrams.
BY
ERNEST FAVENC.
William Brooks & Co , Ltd., Sydney and Brisbane
1905.
Q
I
JOHN FORREST,
THE EXPLORER,
Who, in 1874, was the first to cross the wide belt of
country in the Centre of Australia that separated the
settlements of the west from those of the east, this book,
on the Physical Contour of our Continent, is dedicated
by the
Author.
Sydney, 1905.
136.1463
PREFACE.
The following work is a plain and simple descriptioai
of tlhe surface of oixr continent, and will, it is hoped,
prove acceptable to all Australians — both old and young
— whic ai'e desirous of becoming better acquaitnted with
the nattural featitres^ of their great country-, their home.
For this reiason, both in text and maps, all political
boundaries, cities, towns, &.c., have been largely ignored
The contents are adapted for the use of every State. The
publishers trust that this book will further rind favour
as the first of a Continental Series which ij is hoped will
tond to foster and encourage the steady growth of a
Naitioual Australian feeling.
THE PUBLISHERS.
INTRODUCTION.
It may sound paradoxical to say so, but forty or
fifty years a<ro, the average Australian knew more about
the then settled portions of his continent than he docs at
present, when so much more is settled and the facilities
for interchange of conimunica.ti'on are enonnously
greater. Rut men travelled then, and the nature of
their surroundings was such, that they were compelled
to notice and remember the couaitrv through which they
passed, or in which they resided. They travel now,
travel much more in fact, but it is from city to city,
from town to town, from one populous centre to another,
whirled along without any necessity to closely inspect
the country they are pa.ssing over.
And a further paradox ; many men travel less than
before, although the mtans of transit are now so varied
and abujndant ; . but then the rambling, roving spirit is
dying out with the growth of genera.tions. Men now
become rooted in their homes, the country districts in
which they have grown up, and the towns they have
watched irise, and helped to develop. To counteract
this, the wide teaching of Australian topography, the
simple knowledge of the surface and contour of our
continent, is at last within our grasp, thanks to the
sprnad of settlement and survey. Our knowledge is
still lacking much in detail, bvit, taking the continent
right through, we are now for the first time in possession
of saifficient facts to build up a base for a future edifice.
This is due to the v/ork of the different survey depart-
ments all over Australia, and the extension of their fields
of operations. In thisi, the sui*vey departmeal of
Western Australia has done yeoman's sei"vice. A vast
untrodden field lay before it, but in spite of many
difficulties that beset it in vai'ious shajoes and forms,
the \vork done, dm-ing llie past ten years, has been
heroic, and the unmapped areas of the far west are
8 INTRODUCTIOX.
now comparatively" few in number. Nor ha,ve South
Ausitralia and Queensland been behind in the peaceful
rivali-y, a.nd though the States of New South Wales and
Victoria have no new lands under theia* sway, the con-
stant work of improving: and perfecting topographical
knowledge has gone steadily on.
From the fruits of such labour, the material for
this book hasi been collated. There is no pretence at
science in its pages, it simply claims to be an honest
presentment of the sm-face characteristics of Australia,
and perhaps, to draw attention to some little-known
facts, the knowledge of which may help to dissipate; a
few fondly-cherished errors of long standing. In dealing
with such, a far-reaching description, embracing much
that is yet but partially known, a few obscure points
still open to dispute, are unavoidably met with, but
though there may be passages which may excite sui'prise,
or even doubt, no statement has been advanced without
good authority.
The feature of this work on which the wiriter feels-
he hopes justly — proud, is the maps. The two relief
maps, the map of the river systems and the contour map
of the mountain ranges, these have all been specially
compiled from, approved data, and are original, and
novel, in their way. For the- relief maps the public has
to thank the artistic skill and ingenuity of D. H. Souter,
and the accumulation of topogi'aphical knowledge of H.
E. C. Robinson, the well-known cartogi'apher. For a
wise and judicious revise of th© subject matiter, I must
thank James Conway, Headmaster of Cleveland Street
Superior School, Sydney.
CONTENTS.
The Continent of Australia in Relief ... ... Frontisjiitre
Position, Contour .. ... ... .. 11
Relief ,., ... .. ... ... 12
Plateaux ... ... ... 1.3
Sectional Diagram across Australia ... ... ... \n
Plains ... .. ... ... .. 16
Ranges ... ... ... ... ... ... 18
Southern and Pacific Slopes .. ... ... 20-22
Map showing Ranges, Tablelands and Plains ... ...25-26
Rivers of Australia : Murray River System .. 28
Multiplicity of Channels .. ... ... 29
Lake Ej'i'e System ... ... ... ... 30
Watershed* of Lake E^'re ... ... .. ... .31
Evaporation-Cum-Soakage System ... .. ,32
Coastal Rivers— Pacific System ... ... ... 33
Watershed of the Clarence ... ... ... 35
Watershed of the Upper Fitzroy (Q.) ... ... 36
Map of the River Systems ... ., ... .37.38
Watershed of the Upper Burdekin .. ... 39
Diagram— Base of Cape York ,.. ... ... 40
Lakes ... ... .. ... ... ... 43
Maps of the Australian De.sert, Past and Present ... 40
Oceans, Seas and Coasts ... ... ... ... 48
Cbe Pbysical Configuration of tu
jTustralian Continent.
The physical contour of Australia, as compared with
that of the other great continents of the world, displays a
formation which may be said to be peculiarly its own.
Although its configuration, during past geological
periods, differed greatly from its present one, still, its
externa] contour of to'-day has remained unaltered for so
long that it may well be called the "oldest persistent
continent." Many circumstances have contributed to-
wards this — its complete insulation, its situation on the
earth's crust, out of line of the track of earthquakes
and outbursts of volcanic disturbances, and, finally, the
low height of its general elevation.
Position. — On the map of the world, Australia is
iu the south-east jDortion of the eastern hemisphere. It
is soiith-wc'st of the Pacific Ocean, and east of the In-
dian Ocean, between the parallels of lOdeg. 39min. and
39deg. ll^min. south latitude, and the meridians of
llSdeg. 5min. and 153deg. 16min. east longitude. The
tropic of Capricorn divides it into two unequal
portions, the larger of the two being the southern one.
Australia is the only one of the continents the entire
area of which lies wholly south of the equator. It is
thus distinctively the southem continent, an appellation
which was conferred on it when its existence Avas only
conjectural.
Contour. — Although Australia exhibits a great
solidity of shape, its coastline is relatively considerable.
Ii has a coastline of 9000 miles in length, which, com-
pared to its continental area of 3,014,050 square miles,
is at the rate of 333 square miles of area to every mile
of coastline. Its coastline, therefore — comparatively to
12 BROOKS'S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
its sixperficial dimensions^ — is two and a-half times greaiter
than that exhibited by the African continent.
Relief. — The hi!j:hland? of the Australian continent
jiartake of the g'eneral chaiacteristic of the hisrhlaaids
of the other continents, where they are found in more
01- less close proximity to the ocean, and present their
steep acclivities towards its waters. So, too, the high-
lands of Australia., although of comparatively low alti-
tudes, lie near its shores, presenting short and rapid
declivities towards the adjoining ocean (or sea) and long
slopes towards the interior.
The average height of the Australian continent is
805 feet ; not so very much lower than the average
height of Europe, which is 939 feet, but it is a mere
dwarf compared to Asia, which averages 3189 feet.
The slope of the land in Australia is singular, in-
asmuch as while still resembling the other continents
in the peneral arransement of its land-masses, in their
coastal neighbourhood and direction of the short slopes
seaward, its insularity is marked by these land-masses
facing the four points of the compass with their abrupt
slopes.
The highlands of Australia, on the east coast, con-
front the Pacific Ocean with their couuter slope, having
their longer slope to the west. On the west coast, on
the contrary, the highlands present their short slope to
the Indian Ocean, and their gradual slope inclines
inland. But there is thisi miarked difference. The
long slope from east to west is suited to the formation
of leuirthened river-coui-ses. On the Indian Ocean slope
no cori-esponding long slope from west to' east exisits.
On the contrary, the western half of the interior plateau
rdsesi, erratically and almost imperceptibly, but still
gradually towards the centre of the continent, and affords
no> facilities for the formation of water-courses.
The culminating point of the highlands of the east
is 73'28 feet above sea level. In the west it only reaches
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 13
3800 feet. In tlie north the long slope inclines south-
ward, and in the eastoin portion it difiei's from the west-
ern in favoiu'ing the f onuaiion of long river-courses ; the
counter slope is presented towards the Timor and Ara-
fura Seias. In the south there is an obvious absence of
pronounced land-raas'ses and rivex'-coui'ses ; but in the
easitern portion a continuation of the lofty eastern high-
lands boldly faces the Southern Ocean.
Plateaux.-. The great plateau of the interior of
the continent is thus guarded and enclosed by a con-
tinuous line of ranges, ridges, and gentle slopes, at times
presenting a formidable barrier, and at times an almost
invisible rise, but always forming an unbroken water-
parting between the drainage of the short, abrupt slope
and that of the long.
A description of the Thibetan plateau, written by
the late Professor Hughes, might well be applied to
Australia, only altering the word 'southward' to "east-
ward." "The traveller who scales them (the highlands)
from the eastward finds, when the crest of the moun-
tain-wall is passed, that he is upon an immense plain.
The irregular and peak-crowned rampart through which
he has ascended forms the barrier of this vast and
elevated region : its highest points rise considerably
above the general level of the tableland, and, seen from
below, appear to form the connecting links of a con^
tinuous mountain-chain. But, viewed as a part of the
whole continuous mass of high land, they sink into un-
importance as compared with its more solid extent and
vastly gi'eater proportions."
Making due allowance for difference in altitude, the
above might have been written of the great inland pla-
teau of Australia.
This interior plateau is bisected by a defined water-
slied, continuous in character, but neither prominent nor
elevated, nevertheless a ti'ue watershed which can be
traced north from the head of Spencer Gulf to the edge
14 BROOKS's CONTINENTAL SERIES.
of the plateau immediately south of Daly Waters tele-
graph station on the Overland Line. The eastern section
is much more depressed than the western one, but, on
the other hand it has the natural features boldly defined
and the river chaivnels follow the orderly drainage sys-
tems of other continental lands. It is in this siec(tion
that the most extensive plain of the interior is to be found,
namely, the Murray Plain.
A man could start from Port Augusta, at the head
of Spencer Gulf, and travel on foot to the Gulf of
Carpentaria, without crossing an altitude of one
thousand i'eei; He could cross into the Lake Eyi-e
basin, and, following up the Geoi'gina, arrive at the town-
ship of Camooweal, situated at its head. He would there
be at an altitude of 71-3 feet, and within a few miles of
the edge of the plateau. The edge of the plateau would
perhaps be a few feet higher. ..Then he would descend
the O'Shanassy to the Gregory, and follow that river
to the Gulf. ' •. .
In the southern and western portion of this sectioin oi
the plateau the slope of tllie land converges towards -aai
area of depression, the lowest point of which is Lake Eyre,
the southern shore of which lake is 39 feet below sea
level ; but the phenomena of Lake Eyre and i ts svtr-
roundings are dealt with in their proper place.
The western section of the plateau is directly op-
posed to the eastern. 'It is not so deeply depressed, and
its natural features are vague and disappointing, partic-
ularly itsi drainage system, which is without order or
method. The surface ascends slightly, conversely to the
eastern section, rising very gi-adually from west to east,
and finding its culnunating point in the abrupt and
sudden rise of the M'Donnell Ranges. The salt lakes
of this section are over a thousand feet above sea level,
while those in the eastern section are less than 300. The
edge of this section of the plateau is highest on its
northern face and lowest on its southern.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 15
An imaginary trip across
central Australia gives a good n ^
idea of the general contour of !> k
the continent.
Starting fiom the coast at
the mouth of an important
river we ascend a steep range
to a plateau, and find our-
selves still on the tributary
waters of the river we have
left. Crossing the basin,
another range is ascended,
but we are once more on
coastal waters, running into
the Pacific.
This, in itself, is a strange
formation, one coastal plateau
ovei'lapping another plateau,
and diverting the drainage.
When the third ascent is
made, we are at last upon the
main inland plateau at about
a level of 1400 feet. A' steady
descent is then made until
the level is but 350 feet.
Shortly afterwards the sur-
face commences to rise to-
wards the M'Donnell Ranges
(the nominal centre of Aus-
tralia}, averaging 3C00 feet
above sea-level, with culmin-
ating peaks over 4000 feet.
Descending to about 1700
feet, there is a constant but
gradual decline of some 500
miles long to the edge of the
plateau, which edge is here a
descent of a few hundred
feet only. The rivers there P$)l
continue constant, lonar and
ArPd/gme^.^Sfi
> Op^hg//,v3 ffange
\Lahe Maodona/d S
>M'Le/s/er ^
\M'Meugfifm4rj6" 2
'M'Gi/es 42/0'''^ ^
'\Alice Spkisos /926" ~
^
^
Eyres C
\Dia//iantina filler 600''^
Ma\ne Riier
t LoyGneACH 6/8"^
.VOATAOV£ /72S"
^Dri//nmon(/fi3/7ffe
fpgnnes fPsnge
16 Brooks's coNTrxKNTAL skkies.
even courses to their home in the Indian Ocean, flanked
by ranges having occasional altitudes of over 3000 feet.
Plains. — The coastal plain which surrounds the con-
tinent, and on which the edge of the interior plateau
abuts, varies greatly in breadth. Its greatest average
width is on the northern coasit ; the eastern and wes-
tern plains are of about the same average width ; and
on the south it is for a long space indeterminable.
But the coastal plain that encircles Australia is worthy
of a more detailed description, seeing that it is
of such extent, and that tlii-ough it run the
rivers that empty direct into the sea. Its altitude varies
considerably, and it is travel sed by numerous ranges.
On the east &ide of the Muaray it may be said to com-
mence, branching eastward from the great Murray
Plain which runs inland. Soon the upstarting
Grampians confine it within the commencement of two
stern boundary lines. On one side the ocean and on the
other the continuous barrier of the Great Divide. Here
the plain is watered by many rivei's, and px'eserves a fair
average width until it approaches the east coast where it
narrows down to a mea*e strip and starts its northern
caieer on a very narrow basis. Gradually it widens out
until the fertile valley of the Hunter affords it a more
extended latitudinal space. North of the Hunter it
shrinks again and runs an even course until the Macpher-
son Range, starting from the Great Divide, cuts across it
to the ocean. The plain is now narrow, but soom the
Great Dividei, receding from its proximity to the coast,
ati'ords it iiioiie space which the Burnett River at once
takes advantage of. The coastal plain is here divided
longitudinally by chains of ranges, which start from the
Ga-eat Divide and continue independent careers to the
peninsula of Oape York. East of the chains of coast
ranges is the low-lying plain adjoining the ocean. West-
yard sxt plateaux, which aa-e bounded to the westwaid by
the rise of the Gr^eat Divide, which is here far removed
from the Pacific. The main tributaries of the Fitzroy
drain the most southern of these plateaux, and. unit^'d.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. I 7
descend through a gorge in this longitudinal coast chain,
and f^ow through low country to the ocean. Above thia,
there is another plateau drained in a similar way, by
tihe Burdekin, only the gorge through which that river
descends to the lower plain is very cointracted. Follow-
ing the tropic from east to west no less t'lian three river
basins are met with! before crossing the Great Divide.
First the lower basin of the Fitzroy (Q.), then ascending a
steep range (the Boomer Mountains), we find ourselves on
a plateau thi-'ough which flows the Mackenzie, running a.
southern and western course. Crossing this river we as-
cend another range (the Driimmond liauge), and are on
the Belyaudo, rmming north tO' join the Burdekin. Still
following the tropic and crossing th© Belyando, a third
range is met with, the Great Divide, the edge of the inland
plateau, and ascending it, we are on Thomson watere and
in the basin of Lake Eyre.
After crossing the Burdekin the coastal plain is crushed
once more into a narrow strip, only asserting its rights
to some room at the Herbert, and further north at the
Normanby.
The plain, where it is drained b}- the sluggish Wat-ex's of
the Great Gulf, is of considerable extent. The ranges hug
the I'acific, and leave the Carpentariaai shorei an ample
margin, and the broad region of Arnhem Land, its
eastern hoaii, woiuld be wholly in possession of
the plain, but that it is vei-y broken by plateaux and
chains of hills. West of the Victoria River the coastal
plain is much traversed by ranges, one of which, the
King Leopold, forms a semicircular barrier round a
poi-tion of the plain, and here, the gorge formation
once more asserts itself at the head of the Fitzi-oy
(W.A.). The plain narrows once more west of the
Fitzroy, and for more than a hundred miles is untravei'sed
by river*. At the Oako^er River the characteristics of an
extended coastal plain, nourishing rivers and creeks
springing from the edge of the inland jjlateau, and water-
ing a level land dotted with short ranee^^ and isolated
18 BROOKS's CONTINENTAL SERIES.
peaks, is resumed one© more. On its southward Wjay the
plain grows narrower, and when it turns east, its width
is greatly redueed, in fact round the Great Bight, the
differenctei between it and th© inla.nd plateau is ahnost un-
defined ; nor ar© there any rivers in this part of it. Ap-
proaching Spencer Gulf it is wider, but still riverless. It
is na«rrow on the east side of the Gulf of St. Vincen,t, and
gradually merger into the Murray Plain once more.
The Murray Plain is the most extensive of the in-
terior ; its altitude is under 500 feet ; then come the Lake
Eyre Plain and the Bulloo Plain.
Both botanically and zoologically there is a marked
ditierence between the coastal plain and the inland plains
and plateau.
Rang^es. — The ranges of Australia have always
been a puzzle to the geographer, and it is only now that
a true knowledge) and estimate of them can be made.
The principal range of Australia is the Great Divid-
ing Range, the study of which may be appropriately
commenced at the abrupt southern end, in about 142deg.
east longitude, and which then inins parallel with
the south coast to the east coast, where it turns
northerly. The Great Dividing Range was so called
in the early days, when the pioneers found that
it fonued a prolonged divide between the waters otf the
coast and the watei-s which ran to the then unknown
west. The name was singularly appropriate, and was
retained as the exploration of the ©ast©m portion con-
tinued north. In or about the 27th parallel south lati^
tude however, the Great Dividing Range, or tih© short
slope of the inland plateau, recedes from the immediate
neighbourhood of the ocean and pursues a more westerly
course. As at this point its appearance and height are
not striking, and the coastal tiers of ranges between it
and the shore — the upheaved edges of subordinate pla-
teaux — are more imposing in appearance, a geographical
mistake which has lasted for some time was fallen into.
The coast ranges were taken to be the main dividing range.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 19
aud under this stolen title they were charted, the name
contiiiiiiing up the Cape York peninsula. In modem
geographies even, it is still stated that "these elevations
on the eastern side of Australia form a continuous,
though most irregular, cordOlera or chain of heights,
extending from Gape Howt to Cape. York, and kmcnvn
by the general name of the Great Dividing Range,"
oblivioua of the fact that the coastal ranges at the base
of the Cape York peninsula only form the watei-sliied
between the rivers flowing into the Pacific and those
flowing into the Gulf of Carpentaria. Reference to the
coloured map showing "The River Systems of Australia"
will at once make this clear.
The Great Divide, the true edge of the interior
plateau, continues its northerly course — screened,
as it were, to seaward by the coast ranges- -until be-
tween the parallels 20deg. and 21deg. south latitude,
whence it turns abruptly to the west, and bids farewell
t<; the Pacific slopie-
The Great Divide has now it« short slope facing
north, and maintainsi duriug the diiration of this
face a low altitude and few prominent features. South
of the Gulf of Carpentaria is, however, an excepition,
its character there being that of a rugged, broken range.
It assumes its western aspect at about 122deg. east longi-
tude, but in appearance it is still but insignificant, and, as
on the eastern coast, is dominated by the superior ele-
vatior of the peaks rising from the ranges that inter-
vene betwixt it and the Indian Ocean. At about south
latitude 34deg. it turns east, adhering to the coastline
that fronts the Southern Ocean, and towards the western
termination of the Great Australian Bight, in 124deg.
east longitude, it ceases to have any prominent material
existence.
The highest points in this chain of between 8 and
9000 miles in length axe as follows : —
20
BROOKS S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
SOUTHERN OCEAN SLOPES*
Over 6000 Feet.
Moiunt Feathertop Victoria.
Over 5000 Feet.
Mouat Hothani
Ccpe
„ Bogong
„ Wills
,, Gibbo
The Cobboras.
The Snowy Plateau
The Twins
Mount Baw-Baw
„ Tamboritha
„ Wellington
,, Buffalo Peak
,, Dai'gal
„ Kent
., Cobbler
,, Selwyu
„ Buller
,, Howitt.
Over 4000 Feet.
Mount Pinnabar
„ Baldhead
,, Towanga
,, Benanibra
* The word " slopes " is here used to indicate both the inland
and seaward slope.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 21
Mount Tambo Victoria.
„ Matlock
., Torbreck
St. Bernard
Burrows
„ EUery
, , Wellington
„ Useful
Castle Hill
Notch Hill
PACIFIC OCEAN SLOPES.
Over 7000 Feet.
Mount Kosciusko. N.S.W.
Over 6000 Feet,
The Pilot
Mount Sea-View
Ram's Head. ,,
Over 5000 Feet.
Forest Hill
Ben Lomond ,,
Mount Tate :•
,, Clarke
,, Murragurai ,,
Chandler's Peak
Look-out Point •,
Over 4000 Feet.
Mount Lambde „
Cla.rence ,,
„ Marbden ,,
22 BROOKS'S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
Mount Beemarung N.S.W.
,, Capoombeta „
Wilson's Peak ,,
Beulah Spring ,,
Mount Binda „
„ Cordeaux
„ Gourada ,,
„ Horrible .,
,, Jindulia .,
., Talbingo .,
„ Tumanang ,,
,, Delegate Victoria.
„ Tinga Ringa
The remaining course of the Great Dividing Range
is unmarked, either on the Carpentarian, Arafuran, or
Indian Oceaai slopes, by any elevation above 4000 fieet.
Mount Kosciusko is the highest altitude in Australia.
Next to it comes the companion moixntain. formerly
Mueller's Peak, but now Mount Townsend ; and this
mountain is supposed to be the one named Kosciusko by
Strzelecki. The name having beem transposed by the
Lands Dept. on finding the nevp point (now Mount Kos-
ciusko) to be the highest.
The following efforts at determining the height of
Mount Kosciusko have been made at various times in. the
past : —
Test.
Feet.
Strzelecki
... Boiling water
... 6,500
Mueller
■ •• Boiling water
... 7,000
Clarke
... Aneroid
... 7,175
G^eodetical Survey
of
Victoria
... Triangulation
• 7,266
Lendenfeldt ...
. . . Aneroid
... 7,171
Wragge
... Aneroid
... 7,525
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OP AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 28
but tliese altitudes, except Wragge's, apply to the
original Mouut KosciTisko, now Mount Townsend.
The height of Kosciusko above the level of the sea is
officially given as 7328 feet. Its height above the surface
of Lake Eyre, however, is 7.367 feet on account of that
lake being 39 feet below sea level. Taking the centre of
the lake as a level, it is 7388 feet. Mount Kosciusko and
Lake Eyre are the highest and lowest points in Australia.
The local names of this mighty Divide are as many
and varioxis as its changes of appearance and attributes. It
may be said to commence in the Black Range, a range
which, though isolated in situation, is still connected
with the main range, and fonns a convenient starting
point for descriptive purposes. On the Southern Ocean
t:lope it bears the names of Hume, Barry and Bowen :
on the Pacific slope it commences with the Muniong,
wherein the loftiest elevation of the Divide is found,
then the Monaro, Gourock, Cullarin, Liverpool, New
England, and Bunya-bunya Mountains
The Great Divide is then without local names, until
after it has deflected fi'oni tho Pacific slope and turned
its short front to the north. Then towards the Gulf of
Carpentaria, it is known under the names of Kirby,
Selwyn, and the Barclay Tableland.
From the Barclay Tableland it skirts that large por-
tion of Australia wherein what may be called the
Evaporation-cum-Soakage System prevails in the in-
terior, and here it is siinply the edge of the great
plateau ; its only name on its western course is the Gre;U
Antrim Plateau. On the Indian Ocean slope, the range.
too, is locally nameless ; its character, as the abrupt edge
of a tableland, not being striking enough to divert
attention from the many other ranges which heire
traverse the coastal plain ; and it jDerpetuates this char-
acter up to its ostensible disappearance at the western
end of the Great Bight Then reappears asi the Hamp-
ton, Gawler, and Flinders Ranges, and again disappears
when near the Murray. But although it a^ssumes during
24 BIIOOKS'S CONTIXEXTAL SEKIES.
its tedious careei* every possible character from an inac-
cessible mountain rampart to a gentle sloping prairie,
every altitude from over six thousand feet to the heiglit
of a house-top, it always di'aws an imperative line I'ound
Australia between the coastal rivers and the inland
drainage ; save and except the Murray. That river
alone, after gathering in between its banks the spoil of
many, many streams from the inner slopes, emerges
triumphantly to the Southern Ocean.
Practically, a man could start fi'om the Black Range,
on the left bank of the Murray, travel round the
continent and return to the right bank without having
crossed stream or river on his long course. Theoretically,
he could pursue the same journey without crossing the
smallest water channel.
Most of the manj' ranges on the southern and southeTu-
and-eastern slope are, more or less, connected with the
main divide, which here, in its highest and boldest
aspect, throws cff several prominent spurs, both ocean-
ward and inland. Some of these have peaks in them
over four thousand feet. On the inland side is
Mount Canoblas, 4610 feet, and on the Macpherson
Rarge, a Pacific spur, there is Mount Lindsay, 5700
feet, and Mount Barney, 4300 feet in height.
In the north there are, however, many ranges and
plateaux, which hug the Pacific, and although a connec-
tion can be traced to the parent stem, are virtually in-
dependent of the Great Divide. Though rugged and
imposing in appearance, tliey aa'e of no great altitude.
Two isolated mountains on either side of the Birrdekin,
ai-e prominent peaks from seaward, Mount Elliot, 4060
feet, and Mount Dalrymple, 4255 feet. On the Cape
York Peninsvila, there is also one cluster of ex-
ceptional height, known as the Bellenden-Ker Group ;
here there are many peaks which pass the 4000 feet limit :
Mount Massie, 4014; Sophia, 4253; Harold, 4150;
Bartle Frere, 5438; Centre Peak, 5158; South Peak,
5000. South of Cambridge Gulf some prominent ranges
MAP SHOWING RANGES,
TABLELANDS, AND PLAINS
OF AUSTRALIA.
Mote.— The Main Divide is marked by a thicker line on tin
Map to give it pioniinence, and not to indicate that it is of greatei
elevation than other ranges, which, in many cases, is not the fact.
c^
o
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 27
assert themselves, but though, like the King Leopold
Range, their appearance is foniiidable, their height is
under 4000 feet. Facing the Indian Ocean the coast
ranges are many and rugged, especially the Hammersly
Ranffe, but the highesit point, Mount Bruce, is only
3800 feet.
A group of mountain ranges, known under
many names, runa north and south, and faces
the eastern shore of Spencer Gulf ; the highest
peak in it, however, is under 4000 feet.
The independent ranges of Central Australia are many
and scattere:! ; the great central group is called the
M'Donnell Ranges. These are situated in the neighbour-
hood of the tropic of Capricorn, and consist of a most in-
tricate series of ranges, the leading feature of which seems
to be to assume east and west lines, and in this forma-
tion they extend nearly 300 miles. They rise in a series
of tecrracesi, tier behind tier, until the highest ridge,
which is the northern one, culminates in peaks over 4000
feet high. Two of them, Mount Edward, 4649 feet, and
Mount Heughlin, 4756 feet, are situated en the mostnorth-
em tier, and Mount Sender, 4437 feet, and Mount^ Giles,
4210 feet, are about midway, overlooking one of the lati-
tudinal valleys that characterise these ranges. The head
tributaries of the Finke, the Hugh, and the Todd, rise in
a labyi'inth of water-coui'ses in these ranges, and flow
south, taking a course at right angles to tihe east and
west trend of the valleys. The Finke (or Larapinta) has
two main tributaries which have their sources respec-
tively at Mount Sonder and Mount Giles. It then ma,kes
its way through another range, the Krichauf Range, to
the south, pursuing a remarkably sinuous course in so
doing.
The Lake Eyre basin dr'ains nearly all of the long
slope of the M'Dounell Ranges, but although the highest
points, Mounts Edward and Heughlin, are north of its
sphere of drainage, no rivers flow to the westward from
this group. Their elevation, the large area they cover
28 BROOKS's CONTINENTAL SERIES.
and the extensive break they make in the great inland
plateau, render these ranges a most important feature in
the contour of Australia.
Another collective group is named the Musgrave
Ranges, and contains some peaks approximated at 4000
feet, and one, Mount Woodruffe, estimated at over five.
The Peterman and many more isolated ranges are
dotted over the great pleateau, but none of them high
enough to be considered noticeable features in the general
contour or to become the sources of rivers.
THE RIVERS OF AUSTRALIA.
The rivers of Australia are divided into two distinct
types, the coastal and the inland. The coastal rivers
have their sources in the seaward slope of the Great
Dividing Range, or some independent range on the
coastal plain, and flow direct into the oceans and sens
surrounding Australia. The inland rivers are again sub-
divided into the Murray River system, the Lake Eyre
system, and the Evaporation-cum-Soakage system.
The Murray River System — The Murray and
Darling rivers together collect the accumulated drainage
of the eastern interior, and then, by way of the Murray, it
is discharged into the Southern Ocean. If you glance at
any large wall-map of Australia, the Darling has the
appeairance of being the main stream, it holding a direct
south-west course throughout, and being but tempor-
arily deflected by its junction with the Murray, while
that river holds a consistent western course and is then
turned south by the Darling. The Murray drains that
slope of the main Divide which faces north and west, and
like itsi main tributary to the northward, the Murrum bid-
gee, it has its birth-place in the highest altitudes of those
slopes. After leaving the mountains, the Murray has
but one tributary on its right bank, the Murrumbidgee,
which, however, brings with it in its turn, the lengthy
Laehlan. Before the Murrumbidgee actually junctions
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINBNT. 21)
with the Murray, it is disorganised by the low, flat
country, and throws out arms which join the Murray in-
dependently and are mistakenly called rivers. The
Murray and Murrumbidgee are the only snow-fed inland
rivers. The Lachlan is more of the central Australian
type, ditoh-like, intermittent and inclined to run out.
The Darling shares the task of mothering the inland
streams fo<r transmission to the Southern Ocean. It
brings in the Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh, Namoi.
Macintyre. Condamine and Warrego, and sometimes tnts
Paron. All these rivers are of the typical formation of
the long inland slope, which is evinced in their slug-
gish courses and occasional multiplicity of channels.
Diagram showing multiplicity of channels of an inland
river in level eountrv.
30 BKOOKS'S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
The Darling pursues most of its cai-«er through the
groat MuiTay plain, v.hich accovmts for the ditch-like
appearance and flat shallow bauks of it and it^ tribu-
taries. The Darling then, and the lower Murray, re-
ceive nearly all the inland drainage of the northern and
western slopes of the Main Divide, the exception being
the Barcoo, which flows into Cooper Creek, thence into
Lake Eyre. The Dai'ling continues its even way through
level countay, from its true head, the Coudamine, to ita
junction, but its waters are wide-spread when all its
many tributarifes are in flood at the same time. Be-
tween tho basin of the IMuriay and that of Lake Eyre,
is a river called the Bulloo, which luns an independent
course of its own, belonging to no system and dis-
charging into a shallow swamp, whose waters are lost
by evaporation. It skirts the Grey Ranges, a straggling
offshoot of the Main Divide, which fomis the eastem
boundai"y of Lake Eyre Basin.
The Lake Eyre System. -^-The mystery, for it can-
not be called anything else, of the ha.ke Eyre system of
drainage, lies in the final exit of its waters. Lake Eyre
is the deepest point of the depression in the south-east
of the plateau, of which mention has been, made. This
lake, which is a sink for the rivers flowing into it, is
.'^200 square miles in area, and 39 feet below sea level.
It is mostly a dry bed, the soutlitvi'u portion alone hold-
ing wat-er. Into it flow livers from the western and south-
em slopes of the Main Divide which face inland from the
Pacific and the Gulf of Carpentaria. These are, the Barcoo
and Thomson, united in the Cooper Creek ; alsoi the Dia-
mantina, with its long tributaries. From the M'Donnell
l\anges come the Field, Arthur, Todd, Finke and others,
running long couraes and draining large basins. The
drainage area of Lake Eyre is enormous ; in the north-
east it-s tribufcaiy streams head in the neighbourhood of
the lieads of the Darling, the Fitzroy, the Bur-
dekin and the Flinders ; ^vhile on the north its
tributary waters rise within 170 miles of the) Carpen-
tarian shore-line, and it mav be said to receive all but
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. ."U
Watershed of Lake Eyre.
32 HROOKS'S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
an inappreciable portion of the drainage from the ex-
tensive group of ranges known as the M'Donnell Ranges ;
the whole area is roughly calculated at about 417,000
square miles.
In spite of this ai-my of affluents, Lake Eyi"©
is nesver full nor visibly affected, as a wiiole. In
flood time theses rivers, particularly from the north-east,,
bring down vast quantities of water and submerge the
low-lying country but never b"well Lake Eyre ; and it
has no outlet to the ocean. There is no doubt that at
least half of the flood-water that drains from the Lal'.e
Eyre watershed is accounted for by diffusion, by soakage,
and by evaporation ; but even so the unaccounted-for dis-
appearance of the remaining half that reaches the lake,
is still a mystery. Another singular fact in connection
with this lake is that it is the only one out of the many
salt lakes of that region that has any extended water-
shed ; the drainage into Lakes Torrens, Gairdner, Frome,
and the others, is merely that of poor little local creeks.
The Evaporation-cutn-Soakagre System,*
- — This fysteiu may be said to prevail throughout the
western half of the intei'ior of Australia. It extends
westward from the watershed of the Lake Eyre Basin,
and is bounded by the edge of the interior plateaus.
From a topographical point of view, it is a hopelessly
unsatisfactory relgion to deal with, on account of its
lack of definite physical features.
Tho only wat^'r channels north of the Lake Eyre
watershed, head from the Barclay Tableland and flow
westward. They have a continuous and defined course
for about 100 miles, and are then lost by diffusion in
dry, flooded flats, by evaporation and soakage. They are
Buchanan's Creek and Creswell Creek, and both run
through excellent pastoral country. Another creek,
Ross Creek, forms the well-knoAvn Newcastle Waters,
named by M'Douall Stuart, which are lost in tho shal-
low depths of Lake Woods. The largest aaad best de-
* Riverles8 area.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 38-
Hucd watercoiu'se, however, is Sturt'^ Creek, which
heads from the edge of the tableland- and runs fairly
south for over 200 miles, beino^ finally lost in a small
salt lake. Strangely enough, although this was the first
watercom'se discovered in this huge riverless area by A.
C. Gregory in 1856, and has no leading tributaries, none
other approaching it in length or continuity exist/S.
Tlie drainage of this featvu'eless land oousists
of small, insignificant creeks, which pursue no
system but i*un a broken fragnientai-y course for
ten or fifteen miles at the furthest, and then are
lost by one or all of the three causes mentioned — soak-
age, evaporation or diffusion. Their commencement is
unaccountable, their course aimless, and their end desul-
tory; such ai-e the creeks of this system. They never
seem to gathe'r togather coherently to foirm a main creek
or to have energy enough to cut out a continuous chan-
nel; they are just the sport of the earth-str.ata, the
weak elevations, and exceptionally heavy rainfalls.
It seemed once that, in the end, a system however feeble
and vague, would, be evolved out of these unpromisiuf,
materials, but a closer and more systematic examination
of the country has revealed nothing tending to throw
any light upon the existence of any orderly system of
draina-gd in this part of Australia. The absence of a
sufficient rainfall is the primary cause.
The Coastal Rivers — On the gicat coastal plain,
the rivers attain in their youth pufficient velocity and
vigour to enable them to cut out and maintain enduring
channclg to the sea. Thus their sources and terminations
arc, as a rule, conventional, and, according to orthodox
rules, they rise in a range and flow into the sea; though
aome have sufficiently distinctive features of their own,
to render them noticeable amongst their f<ellow.=!.
Pacific System. —On the Pacific coast there are to
be found mo.st of the Aust'-alian coastal rivers. The
heavier rainfall and the higher elevation favours their
creation, just as on the Indian Ocean coast, a lack of
these advantages reduces their number. Where the Div-
34 BROOKS'S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
iding Raugs is: in close proximity to the sea, and is
abrupt and steep, the rivors often run parallel with it
for some distance, the'n turn and make for the shore.
This is very marked on the southern coast of New South
Wales in the Shoalhavcu, and the Hawkesbury, both of
which rivers skirt the irange for some distance, from
south to north, before heading seaward.
The Hawkesbury is a marvellous river from its long
course parallel with the Main Divide, during which
career its has various names, and on its right bank ire-
ceives tributaries, the sources of which ai'e almost with-
in hail of the sea shore.
The Hawkesbury is the oldest historical river of Aus-
tralia, not on account of being the first discovered, for
the Swan (W.A.) was the first to be traced with boats,
but the Hawkesbury was found so immediately after the
settlement was formed, and was so bound up in the early
history of this continent that its name is part and
parcel of it.
The Hunter is likewise both historical and remarkable.
The valley drained by the Hunter forms a long indent in
the margin of the great plateau, and, unlike the Hawkes-
bury, the ascent therefrom is easy and practicable*. It
was a noteworthy incident in our history that when the
'"Lady Nelson" was examining and surveying the river,
she had on board, engaged in charting it, three men v/ho
had attempted the passage of the Blue Mounta-ins and
been forced back — Paterson, Banailliere and Cayley.
[f theiy had but known it at the time that the river they
were then surveying would have led them through a
smiling valley up an eas)'- ascent to the soug'ht-for land,
a chapceir of our histoi'y would have been forestalled.
Another striking peculiarity of a coasital river, is when
it drains a secondaiy or inferior plalteau, between the
Great Divide and the coast ranges. These long tributaries
coming from north and south, overlap — so to say — the
short coast stream, and uniting, form the main river be-
fore descending to the plain bordering the ocean.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. '5o
-Tlierei are three rivers which are peculiar exeniplifica-
tions of this — the Clarence, the Fitzroy and the Biu'dekin.
One head of the Clarence rises in the Macpherscn Range,
on the border of Queensland, and the other heads south
of Ben Lomond. The two run towards each other from
north and south, meet, unite, and huiTy seaward.
/I CPMEff
r.^-Z
-.%/v f^j^f^^J.'
Watershed of Ihe Upper Clarence.
The Fitzroy is still more striking, for the Main Divide
is there some considerable distance from the coast, and
the presence of tiers of high coast ranges cause a plateau
of coinsiderable elevation between them and the Divide.
The tributaries of the Fitzroy are spread over thia
plateau ; the Da.wson in the south, and the Macken-
zie and Isaacs in the north, daain it, and, uniteid,
form the Fitzroy, which then descends to the coast,
36
BROOKs's CONTINENTAL SERIES.
and empties in Keppel Bay. The Burdekin has a very
long southern tributary, called th.e Belyando, which
intervenes between the waters of the Isiaace and the Main
Divide, and the Burdekin itself comes from the north
with considerable drainage. Just below its junction
-?>"-- J -— .
Watershed of the Upper Fitzroy (Q ).
with the Suttor, which brings in the Belyando
and Cape Rivers, there is a gorge in the Leich-
hardt Range impassable to four-footed animals,
.araJ-
URA. MELVILLE IV^^
^
- z^-
-^a^
.i^
X Macdi
— (^ r--:
'i-V^"
vV
^
..•0^'
- ^'
o«c-'
e
SWA^'
Lt^A^
JiUSTRALl^
The River Sys
The River Systems of Austral!
£.
PHYSICAL COKFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 39
and through this gorge the Upper Burdekiu, as
it is locally oalled, descends to the coastal
plain and becomes the Lower Burdekin.
^
'-^V X /
. \
Y. •>
d) 1
\
\
\ ^\^
iJ ^\
\
("""^
I
. > .
1
^v . Vi
\
1 e>
-2. V '^l
' /|
■^ "S. V
^^>,^
N
lej. xr>^
v'*
V3 V
^1
\ J
^
r^N^
V
^•'i
.'<?
'n
I.,
\
/
\
n/
Watershed of the Upper Bmdekin.
40
BROOKS S CONTlNENTXi, SERIES
These three rivers occupy as* it were, each an
elevated plateau of its OAvn, which the highest
and most influential tributaries drain before de-
scending to the lowest level coutiguous to the
oceau. In the case of the; Burdekin especially, the
Leichhardt Range, which forms the ea&beni edge of this
minor plateau, is a continuous and formidable barrier and
through it the river forces its way down through a rocky
gorge in short falls and rapids. The Herbert, which
drains the opposing watershed to tne heads of the Bu""-
dekin, and flows into the Pacific, has also, in a great
degree, this plateau formation.
The peninsula of Cape York, the most northerly
point of Australia, presents a peculiar river system of
its own, somewhat j-esembling that of the main continent
in the way that the coast range — v/hich is here of rea-
sonable height — frowningly faces the Pacific with its
abrupt slope down which run but short rivers, while
the slope to the Gulf of Carpeintaria being gradual, the
long rivers, such as the Gilbert, Mitchell and others, are
on that side, running westward.
OVLF or CaRPEJ^TABTA
Base of Cape York Peninsula.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 41
The Gulf of Carpentaria has many long rivers included
amongst the number of those that are lost in its man-
grove-fringed waters. A reference to the map of the
river systems will show the reason of this in the large
fixtent of its width of coastal plain. The Flinders is a
peculiar river, large, and draining a vast amount of
country ; it takes its rise on the slope of the Great Divide,
where the crest is so tame and unmarked that the
watershed is nothing more than a swell of the rolling,
treeless downs that there fonn the parting of th© waters.
Theoretically, the raindrops that trickle down the nor-
thern face of a clump of grass, join those that meander
to the great Gulf, and those that drop from the southern
face find themselves sailing along to an obscure grave in
Lake Eyre. Another peculiarity of the Flindei^s is the
fact tliait the country on its banks appertains to the in-
land slope more than the coastal in appearance, soil and
herbage. The Maicarthur. another Gulf River, has also
this characteristic. The Roper is a large, navigable
river, which flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria.
The district known as Arnhem's Land, which forms
the western horn of the Gulf, has no resemblance to the
eastern one in contour, excepting a similarity of shore-
line. It boasts neither mountains nor ranges, and, con-
sequently, the rive.Ts traversing it have no distinctive
attributes. The largest are on the western coast and
are named the Daly and the Victoria. The only river of
importance that flows into the Timor Sea is the Fitzroy,
which, like its eastern namesake, drains a coastal plateau.
The two largest rivers of the Indian Ocean
system are the Ashburton and the Gascorne. The
Ashburton is the longest river of this system. It rises
at the edge of the great inland plateau in broken, baii'en
country, clothed with spinifex and mulga. Its course for
some distance is through a similar forbidding region, and
it theii emerges — a broad, sandy river — into good pastoral
land, cut up into picturesque valleya by sharply peaked
sieri'as. All these valleys are of considerable breadth and
contribute large water-courses. The Gascoyne, like its
42 BROOKS's CONTINENTAL SERIES.
fellow the Ashbiirton, has its source in the edge of the
inland plateau. The upper reaches of the river flow
throngh a large basin of comparatively level country,
well grassed. After receiving tributaries from north
and south, it runs through a pass between two hills, and
pursues an even way to the west coast. The difference
between these two typical west coast rivers is very mark-
ed. The Gascoyne has much the appearance of an inland-
flowing river ; its upper channel is variable and inter-
mittent, and the junction-points of the higher- tribu-
taries are generally flooded flats', whereon the bed is lost.
The Ashburton, on the other hand, resembles one of the
coastal rivers of the east ; running midst boldly marked
langes, having a broad sandy bed with heavily timbered
banks and islands. The Murchison is also an important
river of this sysitem, and that short coastal streiam the
Swan, is noticeable from taking its rise at the back of
the Darling range, and penetrating it on its way toi the
sea.
A comparison of two of the principal rivers of the
east and west coasts, with regard to elevation and length,
may prove instructive. Only in such a comparison it
rhiist be borne in mind that the sovuee of a river is a
a very indeterminable quantity ; the only thing togo by is
the general altitude of its higliest tribvitary.
The Burdekin rises in Table Mountain in the Razor-
back Range. In a direct line it is 200 miles from its
mouth ; following the sinuosities of its course it is more
than twice as much, namely 425 miles. Table Moun-
tain is about 2500 feet high. Amongst its bends and
cui-ves, it thus descends 2500 feet in 425 miles. The
Burdekin, however, takes somei leaps during its progi^ess.
One at its birth, another short leap opposite Charters
Towers, and a mighty bound at the Gorge, through which
it flows through the Leichhardt Range.
Its longest tributary is the Belyando from the south.
This river runs a fairly straight course. It is' 250 miles
from its source in the Great Divide — 2000 feet high — to
its junction with the Burdekin at 790 feet. It falls 1210
feet in 250 miles. The Belyando has no falls nor
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 43
rapids, but its junction with the Bm-dekin takes place
before the Burdekin takes its last leap. (Properly speak-
ing the Belyando takes the name of the Suttor below
the junction of the two rivers ; but the Belyando is
undoubtedly the main stream.)
The Fitzroy (Q.) has its source in the Main
Divide at the same height and in the same neigh-
bourhood as the Belyando. Its length in a straight line
is 250 miles, but at least two thirds must be added for
curvature. It makes one rapid descent at its birth and
another at the Boomer Bange : 2000 feet in 410 miles.
On the we.^t coast the longest river is the Ashburton,
380 miles long, in a straight line, to which 200 miles
should be added for ciirvature. It rise.s in the edge of the
main plateau, the estimated height of which just there
is about 1500 feet. Its course is fairly even without falls
or rapids; nearly 2000 feet in 580 miles.
The Gascoyne comes second in length. Its source
is in Mount Leake in the Robinson liange ; 2000 feet ;
and its course dir^ect to the Indian Ocean is some 360
miles. It has no falls nor rapids ; 2000 feet in 500
miles. Thus we see that although tthere is no such great
difference in the i"elative descent of the east and west
rivers, the descent on the eastern side is of a more rugged
and tornential character. Also, the Burdekin and Fitzroy
hold much more sinuous courses than the Ashburton and
Gascoyne.
The Southern Ocean System is practically unrepresent-
ed in its western portion : and, save for a few small
streams that fall into Spencer Gulf, in the central portion
also. After crossing the Murray, however, the gi'owing
and aspiring highlands assert their presence in the many
rivers that now break the shoreline with their mouths.
The beautiful Glenelg, the Hopkins, the La Trobe, the
Mitchell, and the Tambo : and the giant-born Snowy
River rushes impetuously forth before the slope turns its
face from the bleak Antarctic.
Lakes. — The lakes of Australia are of an unsatisfac-
tory natiire. The fresh water ones are small, and tlie 5o-
44 KROOKS'S CONTINENTAL SERIES.
called salt lahes are simply huge saline bogs. The fresh
water lakes doi not include any that are of sufficient im-
portance to form noticeable features in the topography
of the continent. The salt water lakes, on the contrary,
are, unfortunately, sufficiently impressive to influence a
conb-iderable area of the country. The peculiari,ties of
Lake Eyre have been already reviewed, and as has been
said, it is the only on© that has anything more than
local drainajjje. Lake Ton'ens, though there is high
country in its neighbourhood, has but an insignificant in-
flow compared to its size, and so with the others spread
over this depression in the inland plateau, which is known
a.s the salt-lake region. Lake Torrens has an area of
2250 s.m., and is 111 feet above sea level Its bed is
generally dry, but when it holds water the depth is
calculated in inches. Lake Gairdner is 1840 s.m. in
area, and 200 feet above sea level. Lake Frome has
an area of 930 s.m., and is 200 feet above sea level.
There are some minor lakes of small size in the Eyire
basin, which are filled by the occasional overflow of
Strzelecki Creek, an arm of Cooper Creek. But the
evaporation of this region is too great for shallow bodies
of water to stand any time without a constant source
of supply.
North-west of this region of dry lakes is another lake
called Lake Amadeus ; it is over 1000 feet above sea level,
and about 700 square miles in area. Although situated
near the western slope of the M'Donnell Ranges, it re-
ceives little or no drainage worth speaking of from this
group, on account of its near proximity to the crest of
the water-shed of Lake Eyre. North-west of Lake
Amadeus is Lake Macdonald, another shallow lake of
the same type which, on its western side merges into
a swamp. It is of a more solid shape than that lake,
but about the same area and height above sea level.
For some time it was considered as part of Lake Ama-
deus, which led to an erroneous idea being entertained
^s regarded the sizei of that lake ; it is, howeve4 in. no
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT 45
way connected with it. All ovei- the western interior
plateau are to be found these saline bogs, which seem to
fill no useful purpose in nature's econo-my, nor is their
presence an actual necessity as a reK3eptacle for the
overflow of creeks and rivers, as is I^ake Eyre. Their
saltness is entirely due to the saline nature of the
soil where they are situated. In fact, m places the pools
of rain become salt after lying on the ground some few
hours.
As this description of country is where the Australian
desert is making its last desperate stand, it may not be
out of place to give seme account of that ancient bugbear
and its gradual evanishment.
Fifty or sixty years ago the whole of the vast interior
of Australia was- labelled, both on maps and in books, as
a desert — usuallj^ "a sandy desert." Year after year the
borders of this desert were en(,roaclied on and invaded by
the pioneeasi. and as it was closed with its terrors disi-
appeared ; at the present moment the desert that once
was supposied to dominate inland Austi'alia is now
confined to that portion of the western platoau between
the 121st and the 129th meridians of longitude, and the
19th and Slst parallels of latitude, but it must not be
supposed that even this comparatively small ai-ea — small
compared to the size of the continent — is given over to
hopeless desolation. Strips and stretches of available
pastoral country, carrying both grass and edible bushes,
are found throughout it, and should artesian water ever
be struck there, these patches will become habitable.
The worst of the desert lies) amidst the sand dunes in the
north : in the south the desert country is mostly
harder ground covered with spinifex, but it has been
crossed and recrossed by different parties many times
during the present century. It is also reported
that an available stock route has been discovered through
it, to eastern settlement. A reference to the accompanying
map contrasting the desert of the myths, with the desert
of to-day, will show the steady decrease and disappear-
ance of this imaginary interior desert. Even in 1882,
46
BROOKS S CONTINENTAL SERIES
I.— The mythical Australian deseit of ."iO years ago.
II. — The vanishing desert of to-daj'.
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 47
Australia was described in an Amerioan cyclopjedic
work,* as — 'Perkapsi the most absolute desert tract on
the face of the oflobe is that which occupies the interior
of the- great island, or, as it may not improperly be
termed, continent of Australia." And again — "The
habitable portions of Australia are limited to the slopes
of the mountains and the narrow space between thein
and the coast, in all not exceeding a width of 300 miles.
The interior as far as is known, or as can be infen'cd from
physical geography, is an immense depressed plain, more
hopelessly barren and uninhabited than the great desert
of Sahara."
The labour, enterprise and energy of the western gold-
pi'ospectors of the last ten years, have done much to re-
move this clinging stigma of tlie desert. In part explana-
tion of this accepted ''desert theon-," it must be allowed
that very often the country has been unfairly condemned
by the discoverer, from the fact of it suffering at the
time of his visit from the effects of a prolonged drought.
Sturt's oft-quoted and misleading description of the heat-
ed surroundings of Strzelecki Creek and the bursting ther-
mometer, has been responsible for much of this.
This may have given rise to the idea, which may now be
banished from men's minds for ever, that an uninter-
rupted and unbroken stretch of desert country usurps the
interior of Australia. The strip of acknowledged desert
country that still remains in evidence in the north-west,
is, however, of a kind that later examination and explora-
tions show to have but few redeeming features ; but that it
has some is undeniable. In the first place it is per-
manently inhabited by aborigines, who seemingly possess
a knowledge of nature's secrets in the matter of enduring
supplies of water. The migratory wild fowl of Australia
do not hesitate tO' cross it, but most of the water is found
in unexpected springs, the origin of which is unaccount-
• " The Polar and Tropical Worlds, a popular and scientific description of man
and nature in the polar and equatorial regions of the g'lohe. Embracing the com-
bined results of all the explorations, researches, and discoveries of modern times.
By H. G. Harting, edited by D. E. Guernsey, scientific editor of the American
Cj'clopaedia."
48 Brooks's continental series.
able and obscure. Its greatest drawback lies in the
parallel sand-ridgeis which cover the face of the coiuitry
and render travelling impractioable.
In 1896, Mr. Diavid Carnegie, v.-ho travelled through
this country on a north-and-south course, ci'ossed 86
saiud-ridges in eight hours' travelling. But one redeeming
feature which it has, in common with most of the desert
country found in the interior, lies in the sudden trans-
sitions that hajipen from desert country to good availaVjle
stock country — a change which often occurs with the
abnipt suddenness of an emergence from a. thick scrub.
Oceans, Seas and Coasts— The west coast of
Australia did not meet with much favour from the early
navigators who made its acquaintance. Swept by rude
gales from the Indian Ocean and presenting little shelter
in the way of natural bays, inlets, or harbours, it was gen-
erally regarded as "inhospitable." It may, in justice to
this opinion, be said that the west coiast presents a naked
front to the sea. Nor do the rivers redeem its character,
for all of them have shallow mouths, blocked by bars.
The hand of man and the skill of the modern engineer is,
however, remedying these short-comings of nature.
The north coast of Australia waslned by the Timor and
Arafuran seas, has by no means such a bald outline as the
other portions of the coast, the lesser indentations are
numeious, and, besides the three or four smaller gulfs of
Van Diemen, Cambridge and King's Sound, the great
Gulf of Carpentaria bites deep intoi the land. It has two
excellent natural harboiu*s in Port Darwin and Port
Essington, as well as numerous rivers with navigable^ en-
trances. It is within the steady influence/s of the S.E.
trades, and for the long winter months it enjoys their
equable sway. During the opposing reign of the N.W.
monsoon, however, it suffea-s the wrath of the hurricanes
and cyclones of that season.
The easit coast, of itself, is not particularly di-
versified, and the southern portion shows the effect
of rough handling from the Pacific ; but fixwu
PHYSICAL CONFIGURATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 49
just above the tropin line northward, it has the
advantage of the protection of the Great Barrier Reef.
This reef shelters the whole of the nortlhern portion of
the eastern coast, its termination north being' in the
Gulf of Papua. Its long protective influence is felt in the
numerous sheltering nooks and ports of the tropical east
coast. Of natural harbours. Port Denison and Port Cur-
tis are most favourably known ; while in the sovithera por-
tion Port Jackson is of wide-world fame, and Twofold Bay
and Broken Bay are good natural harbours.
On the southern coast, east and west are again in singu-
lar contrast. The eastern half is broken up by mamy
inlets, of more or less importance, including Western Port,
Poirt Phillip Bay, St. Vincent and Spencer Guifs ; then
comes the long and curving sweep of the Great Australian
Bight with a shore-line of sterile nakedness, where the
Antarctic rollers shatter themselves on a bare line of cliffs
sometimes 250 feet high, diversified with occasional
beaches, of which the best known is Eyre's Sand Patch.
At the western end, however, is the splendid harbour
of King George's Sound.
In all, the coasts of Australia confront six seas : The
Indian Ocean, the Timor Sea, the Arafura. Sea — which re-
ceives the Australian rivers through the medium of the
great Carpentarian Gulf — the Pacific, the Tasman Sea
and the Southern Oceaji.
Torres Strait and Bass Strait are two distinctive fea-
tures of our continent. The first, between New Guinea
and Cape York, is the northern entrance to the populous
east coast, as Bass Strait is on the south. Their relative
positions, climatic and piiysical surroundings, afford m
themselves a presentment of this vast continent, Torres
Strait having on the north the hot and steamy island,
of Papua, while to the southward is the headland
of Cape York, of the true type of much Australian scenery.
A low, blunt promontoi*y fronts the Strait, whose grassy
slope, scattered over with granite boulders and crowned
with the same, runs down to meet a smooth white beach
50 BROOKS's CONTINENTAL SERIES.
of coral saJid. The Strait itself is studded with islands,
atolls and reefs, and the many-gated Barrier Reef closes
its Pacific end. For long months it is a sea of summer
isles, a smooth and rippling joass fanned by the steady
south-east trades. Then again, lashed by the fierce winds
from the north-west, it changes into a veritable pass of
wreck and death, where the pearling craft are scattered
and destroyed, and the cyclone-lashed waves play havoc
in their wrath. This hidden strait saw no glint of sail
till Torres returning from the New Hebrides ventvired
unknowingly to ruffle its waters with the "Almirante's''
prow. In the same year a Dutch caj#(ain, one Willem
Jansz in the ' Duyfken," had sailed unwittingly across
its western entrance a few months earlier.
The companion strait, the southern pass to the eastern
coast, is, in its way, just as typical of Australia. Bold
and bleak in appeanance, a tujrbulent sea sets through it
from the westward the long yaar round. No( months of
constant gentle winds ever play across its storm-tossed
waters. These two straits appropriately guard the north-
ern and southern extremities of the continent.
Of Australasia.
.,^^f^
' IV/if/r /.) Si/(//jey''
5F
GERMEA..1
£/ IS A PRODUCT OF THE MOST STRENGTHENIN
£/ IS A PRODUCT OF THE MOST STRENGTHENII
j0 PORTION OF CHOICEST IVHEAl
^ HENCE IS AN IDEAL FOOD FOR CHILDREN. AS I
^ PRODUCERS BRA.IN AND MUSCLE
AU Grocers Sell lU