Ex tibris 
 C. K. OGDEN 
 
 *r ^M" - O T ' 

 
 >X : // \^^ I 
 
 r , h ,. ; ;;"r
 
 A 
 
 HAND-BOOK OF EPSOM, 
 
 I-llustratton* on Jlloot) anD 
 
 EMBRACING THE VILLAGES OF 
 
 EWELL, LETHERHEAD, ASHTEAD, 
 BANSTEAD AND CHESSINGTON, 
 
 WITH THEIR VARIED POINTS OP 
 
 ATTRACTIVE SCENEKY, FISHING ON THE MOLE, THE DOWNS, 
 GEOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL & ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICES, 
 
 E2Sitfj a iiSap of tfje fieigpourfjooa. 
 
 C. J. SWETE, M.A. 
 
 Now Heaven in all her glory shone, and rolled 
 
 Her motions, as the Great First Movers hand 
 
 First wheeled their course : earth in her rich attire 
 
 Consummate lovely smiled ; air, water, earth, 
 
 By fowl, fish, beast, was flown, was swum, was walked 
 
 Frequent ; 
 
 Milton, 
 
 EPSOM : 
 
 JOHN NELSON COLLINGWOOD, 
 
 AND 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL AND CO., LONDON. 
 
 y
 
 DORKING: 
 PRINTED BY J. EOWK.
 
 N OTICE. 
 
 IF it be true that a Preface is never read he is not 
 wise that writes one. The design of this little book 
 is so plain on its title, as scarce to need prefatory 
 matter. We would, therefore, but insert these lines 
 to acknowledge our obligations to many friends for sta- 
 tistics supplied, especially to Rev. A. Barrett, M.A., 
 of North Cheam, for his geological notice ; and to Rev. 
 B. Bradney Bocket, M.A., Vicar of Epsom, for that of 
 the entomological peculiarities of this district. 
 
 We would also request that we may be favoured by 
 any corrections of this, as well as local information which 
 may add interest to a future edition. 
 
 Our only regret is, that on account of the limited field 
 a Hand-Book affords, many facts of the greatest interest 
 have been necessarily omitted, which were the space large 
 we might with advantage have included. 
 
 C. SWETE, M.A. 
 
 Parade Gardens, 
 Epsom,
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 MAP OF EPSOM AND NEIGHBOURHOOD, before the title. 
 
 EPSOM HIGH STREET, SHOWING THE CLOCK TOWER . . 5 
 
 THE NEW INN OF 1706 28 
 
 EPSOM PARISH CHURCH 45 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, EPSOM 68 
 
 THE GOOD SAMARATAN 63 
 
 WOODCOTE PARK, the Seat of Robert Brooks, Esq., M.P. . 85 
 
 OARBRAND HALL, the Seat of George Torr, Esq. . . 96 
 
 EWELL CHURCH 99 
 
 NONSUCH PALACE, from an old Print of 1582 . . . 106 
 NONSUCH PARK, the Seat of William Farmer, Esq. . .113 
 
 A8HTEAD CHURCH 130 
 
 CABARET OF ELINOUR RUMMYNG 141 
 
 VIEW FROM NORBURT PARK 146
 
 CON TENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. The object of the work American mode of Sight- 
 Seeing Epsom as a place of recreation for the wearied inhabi- 
 tants of London. Pages 1 to 4. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 EPSOM. The Road on Derby-Day The Palaces of the Mediaeval 
 period More modern palatial structures, Nonsuch & Durdans 
 The situation of Epsom Evelyn's description of the Air of 
 Surrey The old names, Ebisham, Ebesham, Epseham The 
 Derivation of the Name The Princess Ebba and Bishop Wil- 
 fred-, her Palace on the site of Epsom Court King Frithwald 
 Mention of the Manor of Ebesham in Doomsday-Book The 
 Black Abbott of Chertsey, legend of him Henry VIII. in 
 possession of Epsom Queen Elizabeth gives it to Edward 
 Darcy, Esq. Various successions Copyhold injurious to the 
 interests of the Town The Manor of Horton Railways to 
 Epsom Hotels, &c. Nursery Gardens -Pitt Place, late Resi- 
 dence of Lord Lyttleton ; Ghost said to have appeared to him 
 Banks Gasworks King's Head Hotel once frequented by the 
 Courtiers of Charles II. Nell Gwynn's House ; Dr. Tenison 
 preached her funeral sermon; Pepys mentions her Fire of 
 London Seats near Epsom Sharon Turner's residence in 
 Epsom; His Works George IV., when Regent, sojourned at 
 Epsom The New Inn, 1706 Tolands Letter to Eudoxa. 
 
 Pages 5 to 44. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 EPSOM CHURCHES. The Parish Church, St. Martin's Anecdote 
 Two Churches mentioned in Doomsday-Book Monuments 
 Rev. Jonathan Boucher Rev. John Parkhurst, Lexicographer 
 Curious Inscription on Grave of Charles Parkhurst Anecdotes 
 from experience of a Parish Clerk Christ Church District 
 Visiting Society National and Infant Schools Independent 
 Chapel Dr. Watts Doctor Harris, Author of Mammon- 
 Chapel of Wesleyan Methodists Temporary Chapel Union 
 Workhouse Royal Medical Benevolent College. 
 
 Pages 45 to 64.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE WELLS. What they were What they are Anecdote of an 
 Insurance Agent The Discoverer of the Wells, A.D. 1618 
 Toland on " Wells" The Supplanted Tradesmen Eastern 
 Monarchs weighed Levingstone's Rogueries Mrs. Deborah 
 Giles on Chalibeate Wells The Wells in the present day- 
 Best mode of drinking the waters Young Doctors explanation 
 of the causes of the Wells decay Dr. Rochecliffe's exposition of 
 King Charles' problem. Mrs. Mapp, sister of Polly Peachum 
 of Gay's Beggars Opera Second sight and cure of scrofula 
 The Doctors Messenger outwitted Mr. Mapp Marriage and 
 Desertion Will Hogarth's print of Mrs. Mapp and the Con- 
 sulting Physicians. Seats of the Gentry Durdans Charles II. 
 and his Queen dine there Evelyn at Durdans Frederic Prince 
 of Wales, his Character Leigh Hunt on his character The 
 Prince and the Sweep Woodcote Rev. Martin Madan 
 Anecdote of Mr. Knipe and the Top Sawyer. Pages 65 to 90. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 E WELL Its Boundaries Derivation of Name Doomsday-Book 
 describes the Manor Annexed by Henry VIII. to Honor of 
 Hampton Court The Advowson Comes into the hands of the 
 Glyn family Residences of the Gentry Residence of George 
 Torr, Esq. The Spring Hotel Ewell Castle Old Ruins of 
 Queen Elizabeth's Bath The Church The Monuments. 
 
 NONSUCH PARK. AND PALACE As it was in the 16th century 
 Origin of Henry VIII. possession of it Elizabeth purchased 
 it Anecdote of Essex and Elizabeth at Nonsuch Anecdote of 
 Queen Elizabeth leaving Nonsuch Pepys' Diary Thornbury's 
 letter in the "Athenseum" on Nonsuch Present possessor The 
 Gardens. Pages 91 to 114. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ASHTEAD. Its Situation Toland on Ashtead, 1666 Mention of it 
 in Doomsday- Book Owners of the Estate Sir Robert Howard 
 comes into possession Hon. Mrs. Howard Seats of Gentry 
 around the Village The Inn. 
 
 THE PARK King James II. Charles II. and William III. guests 
 to Sir Robert Howard at Ashtead Avenue of Limes Aubrey 
 on Ashtead John Evelyn on Ashtead Cost of the Buildings 
 Fine collection of Pictures enumerated The Shrubberies and 
 Park Trees The noble Wych Elm 40 feet in circumference 
 Fine specimens of the Spanish Chesnut Anecdote of their 
 early days Evelyn on "the Beech" White of Selbourne 
 Gilpin Gainsborough Large Antlers and Legend connected 
 with them The Gardens and Conservatories Stables. 
 
 THE CHURCH, dedicated to St. Giles Roman Fragments Hypo-
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 caust in possession of Rev. Wm. Legge The Cedar Carving 
 The Stained Glass Windows brought from Flanders The 
 Monuments National School ; Inscription Part of the Stane 
 Street Causeway here Alms Houses ; Inscription. 
 
 Pages 115 to 136. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 LKTHERHEAD. Its Situation Bridge across the Mole Ancient 
 Bridge in existence in the reign of Edward III. with a Toll- 
 gate King Alfred bestowed Leodride on his son Edward 
 The Manor of Thorncroft Its mention in Doomsday-Book 
 Letherhead connected with Ewell in 1203 The Boundaries of 
 the Parish Three separate estates before the Norman Con- 
 quest The Country around Letherhead The Cabaret of the 
 Alewife of Letherhead, now the Sign of the Running Horse 
 Skelton's mention of her in "the Tunnying of Elinour Rum- 
 myng," in an edition of his poems printed A.D. 1571 Judge 
 Jeffry lodged here on occasion of his daughters last illness 
 Register of her funeral The Church and Monuments Resi- 
 dences of Gentry, &c. 
 
 NORBURY PARK AND THE MOLE. Plans for the Tourist Scenery 
 Ancient Yew Trees Beeches, Walnut Trees. & Oaks Fishing 
 on the Mole The Owners of the estate since the Reign of 
 Edward the Confessor The late and present Owners The 
 Mole a court beauty Flies and bait suited to this river Test 
 of weight of fish The origin of the name Mole The Swal- 
 lows The Course of the River Various remarks on fishing 
 subjects Fish, not the sufferers they arc imagined to he Fish 
 with hooks and lines fixed in their mouths will take the natural 
 fly Dray ton's Episode on the wooing of the Thames and Med- 
 way The Thames meets the Mole and is captivated Spenser 
 on the Mole Milton on the Mole The Swallows, their cause 
 and nature Defoe's Anecdote Lake drained for fish near 
 Brussels, immense quantity of fish Home to Dinner The 
 Swan Inn Lay of the Scotch Bard. Pages 137 to 16'2. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 BANSTEAD. The Situation of the Village Its Downs Chalk Range 
 Doomsday-Book mention of Banstead A house in Southwark 
 belonged to this Manor Seven manors in this parish Henry 
 VIII. settles part on Kathcrine of Aragon Sir Nicholas Carew 
 and his tragic end- Cardinal Poles conspiracy The Restoration 
 of Banstead to Sir Francis Carew Now in possession of 
 Maudesly, Esq. The Manor of Burgh The Buckle 
 family The Manor of Perrotts The Lambert family The 
 Manor of Tadworth belonging to Mrs. Hudson The Church of 
 All Saints Remarkable for its Pointed Arches Oak Carving 
 Monuments Ruth Bretts monument, curious National
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Schools Registers commence 1 546 Nork, seat of the Earl of 
 Egmont Banstead Park Banstead Place Garretts Hall 
 Bergh House The Inn Traditionary lore concerning Ban- 
 stead Evelyn's mention of it Camden's account of Roman 
 Remains at Woodcote near Banstead Horsley's account of 
 same. 
 
 EPSOM RACES. The Scenery of the Downs The Derhy-Day, 
 200,000 spectators, their appearance when massed around the 
 Course Brayley's History of Surrey on the Races Tradition 
 as to their origin Days on which held The Origin of the 
 
 The Visit of her Majesty Queen Victoria to the Course The 
 Stewards. Pages 163 to 173. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CHESSINGTON. Its Ecclesiastical junction with Maldon Its Boun- 
 daries Situation Manors of Cisendone and Cisedune as 
 mentioned in Doomsday-Book Conveyance to E. Northey, Esq. 
 of Epsom Sale, and descent to Henry Gosse, Esq., the present 
 possessor The Church The Monuments Samuel Crisp, his 
 Monument and Epitaph, by Dr. Burney, father of Madame 
 D'Arblay Seats of the Gentry. Pages 174 to 176. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICE. Derivation of the word Botany Mysteries in 
 nature Knowledge of Botany necessary to the full enjoyment 
 of Nature's floral beauties Linnaeus on Order Table Mount 
 Instruments for Botany A good Synopsis for the Student 
 Plants peculiar to the neighbourhood of Epsom Orchidaceaj, 
 Ophrys, Campanula Sedum, Chenopodium Ferns, various 
 species on Epsom Common and Downs Ashtead Ewell 
 Newtown Wood Norbury Park Banstead and Chessington 
 English names avoided as being arbitrary. Pages 177 to 184. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL NOTICE. Sutton, Cheam, Ewell and Epsom lying on 
 the edge of the Upper Chalk Beds of Clay Specimens of 
 Ventriculite in Chalk Pits of Sutton and Cheam Specimens in 
 the Flints Bivalves Vertebrae in the Chalk Curious quotation 
 from Leland on valuable Clays near Epsom. Pages 184 to 186. 
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. Epsom rich in the treasures of the 
 Animal Kingdom Newtown Wood rich in wealth for the 
 Lepidopterist and Coleopterist Gamekeepers enemies to the 
 science Why ? A. Iris, the purple emperor T. Quercus, the 
 purple hair-streak Fritillaries V. Anthropia, the Camber- 
 well beauty Nocturni of Doubleday Anecdote of A. Antropos 
 and the Bumpkin The Hilly field of Headley Stainton on 
 C. Exoleta, &c., &c. Lament that so little interest exists on the 
 subject in Epsom. Pages 187 to 193.
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 'N PUBLISHING the following Guide for Epsom, 
 with the lovely and interesting neighbour- 
 hood surrounding it, I have been encouraged, 
 mainly, by the long existing demand for such 
 a work; but also by a desire that other minds 
 might mingle with my own in a somewhat 
 deeper appreciation of the bright and beautiful, 
 than is the wont of those who are led by the 
 common Hand-Books of the day, to, merely 
 and mechanically, " do " the place of their 
 visitations, and then depart perhaps for ever. 
 These mens minds are no better for their 
 travel, their hearts are uninfluenced by the soft 
 power of scenery, and they have left stores of 
 wonders unexplored, and scenes of wondrous loveliness 
 unexamined, which might have imparted instruction to the 
 one, or given sweet enchantment to the other. 
 
 I cannot soon forget one striking instance of this hurried 
 routine, in the case of an American acquaintance who 
 once asked my company for a ride sight-seeing in London. 
 Drive to St. Paul's, said he to his coachman. Up Ludgate 
 Hill we drove ; and as that noble dome, and the rich
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 outline of the fabric, great masterpiece of Wren, was 
 spread before us ; and while the chief difficulty really was, 
 to find adequate expressions to extol each wonderful 
 detail, my friend merely remarked, " Is that St. Paul's ?" 
 I answered, Yes, surely! "Very well, then," said he, 
 'Drive on coachey and let us have a peep at the 
 Exchange." 
 
 It has been my aim, to carry the tourist somewhat 
 further than this mere outline examination, to go with 
 him into many a sweet sequestered vale, to climb yonder 
 hills as they lie bathed in golden light, to wander with 
 him by the rivers' bank, pointing out spots whence may 
 be drawn the finny inhabitants of its depths, to point out 
 the Geological structure of the land through which he 
 strays, and to show how liberal Flora has been of her 
 charming productions to woo the soft glance of the 
 Botanist. In Entomology, the lover of this beautiful 
 pursuit will find local traits pointed to, which may enable 
 him to enjoy his own peculiar fancy. While tracks of 
 the sweetest beauty are chosen for those whose care can 
 be, but for a short time laid aside, and who must shortly 
 wend their way, " back to busy life again." 
 
 It is in this respect that Epsom is becoming a place of 
 immense value, especially to the toil-worn inhabitant of 
 London. Little more than half-an-hours ride on the Rail, 
 and the expenditure of little more than one shilling, 
 permits him to feast his eyes on green trees and sweet 
 flowers, to enjoy all those beautiful views and landscapes, 
 which the poorest workman can ramble among as well as 
 the peer. 
 
 List, to the glorious flocks of sheep upon the Downs,
 
 INTRODUCTION. 3 
 
 , how lovely the music they are making with their bells. 
 List, to the chaunting of the sweet melodists of the 
 groves 
 
 " As from the blackbird's mellow throat 
 There pours so loud and long a swell, 
 As echoes with responsive note 
 From mountain side and shadowy dell." 
 
 The mind will receive the lovely impressions, as the quiet 
 unruffled lake receives into its bosom the reflection of the 
 sky and clouds above it, or the trees and flowers upon its 
 margin; and all these are calculated to do more for the 
 wearied soul than cushions of down, or canopies of gold. 
 
 It is therefore the task proposed, to avoid as far as 
 possible that which would prove dull and uninteresting, to 
 weave, in the gayest, happiest syllables, all that is peculiar, 
 in historical and literary association, with the scenes we 
 draw. It is hoped that this Guide may lead as with " a 
 silken cord," and that the pleasurable sensations, which a 
 journey to Epsom and its neighbourhood must assuredly 
 give, may, under its leadings, linger long upon the mind, 
 and afford an enjoyment that will last. 
 
 Too well we know that change is written upon every- 
 thing, and that in the space of a few years, change may 
 come upon the scenes we describe ; but, while many a 
 stately mansion shall have changed its inhabitants, or lie 
 crumbled into dust; while many of the old houses shall 
 have disappeared in troops, and cohorts of new terraces 
 probably arisen in their place, to accommodate the fugitive 
 denizens of London ; yet, since the hills and the valleys 
 unchanging remain to form natures beautiful landmarks, 
 long shall it be before Epsom and its lovely and salubrious 
 
 B2
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 neighbourhood will cease to be Epsom still. And, there-' 
 fore, we are encouraged to hope that this little book, the 
 fruit of considerable labour, may be long before it is buried, 
 beneath the tobacconist's or grocer's hand, in the grave of 
 many of its betters. 
 
 Still, let what will be its fate, if it be voted a pleasant 
 and innocent companion while it lasts. If it lead many a 
 sickly worn-out one amid refreshing streams and beautiful 
 flowers, bounties of God's good providence ; if it shows 
 him scenes, with beauty redolent, and makes him, in any 
 sort, forget his cares, while at the same time it acts as a 
 steady, sober guide ; then, however discouraging the 
 prospect, the labour will be felt to be light.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 EPSOM. Its name is known throughout the world. 
 Does not its very mention bring a crowd of thoughts, 
 ridiculous, sublime, refreshing? ridiculous when we think 
 of its road scenes on its racing days ; sublime in its 
 recollections, its places ; refreshing, when its lovely 
 scenery passes before memory's eye. 
 
 Who that remembers the old coach days will readily 
 brush away from his mind the incidents of the road to
 
 THE KOAD TO " THE DEKBY." 
 
 Epsom, the favourite drive of prince or citizen, the fifteen 
 mile walk of the sturdy pedestrian. At seasons bustling 
 with wondrous life, at all times lovely and refreshing even 
 in its solitary beauty. 
 
 But it has ever been unique in that view which is 
 plentifully immortalised by illustration, almost ever since 
 engraving has prevailed, namely, its appearance on the 
 great day of the Summer Meeting. Though in nowise 
 lovers of the course, we have walked forth then, merely to 
 see the hurrying throng, and what a wondrous mixture ! 
 At one time, whirling past, comes the gay carriage of 
 some wealthy patrician with its showy occupants, now the 
 well appointed drag, or the old lumbering family coach. 
 At another time the nondescript vehicle of the London 
 tradesman, then the cart of the gipsy. All are in high 
 glee, with faces full of pleasurable anticipation. Suddenly, 
 some ill-bred pony stumbles across the road, his cart 
 charged with a rough cargo of the Metropolitan butcher 
 boys, causing huge confusion among the lordly throng, 
 enhancing too the delight of the delinquents themselves, 
 who now, " care not a button," for the highest in the 
 land laughter- loving souls that they are ! 
 
 Here walks, sentimentally, the staid and sober ac- 
 countant, who perhaps despises unaccustomed aid to his 
 pedestrian habits ; here, perhaps, the man who finds the 
 walk an interest in itself. The stately carriage dog, and 
 the merry cur, the fruitwoman with her basket piled with 
 oranges, the vendors of gingerbread and beer all strike 
 you as such a picture of intent and preoccupation, scarce 
 changing its features of careless merriment even when 
 Royalty with all its pomp sweeps on, that the rhyme will
 
 come humming up, so familiar to our nursery ears, 
 
 " The King was in the parlour reckoning up his money, 
 The Queen was in the closet eating bread and honey, 
 The Maid was in the garden spreading out the clothes, &c." 
 
 Royalty, pride and simple humanity mind and mere 
 instinct, all have such an air of abstraction all so hurry- 
 ing in a glad stream, careless, save of their own individual 
 business, interest, or amusement. 
 
 But, again, the Palaces of the Mediaeval period, and of 
 more modern times, though they exist now but in history, 
 or the annals it may be of tradition, add sublimity to the 
 memories of Epsom and its environs. In ancient times, 
 the Saxon kings here held court, and though, not a vestige 
 remains of their pomp, yet we are wont to people the 
 greensward with the shades of mail-clad warrior and 
 diademed lady, with the minstrel as he chanted his 
 sweetest lays in praise of beauty, or excited to deeds of 
 prowess the monarchs martial band. 
 
 Fresher vestiges also exist of more modern palatial 
 structures, and in Nonsuch and Durdans, the echo, we 
 fancy, still seems accustomed to voices more royal than 
 those that strive to awaken them now. All associate with 
 Epsom, and the sweetest of its types of beauty, the 
 grandeur also of days gone by. 
 
 Lastly, its refreshing loveliness in the beauty of its 
 prospects, fill the mind with scenes "to memory dear." Of 
 these by and by we shall more largely speak, to woo to 
 our sweet peaceful shades the tired and the weary; and 
 this, in the full confidence that nature will paint scenes, 
 can we but draw the tourist towards her Great Masters 
 handiwork, which will rnclianl by their prace, as they 
 satisfy by their enjoyment.
 
 8 THE SITUATION OF EPSOM. 
 
 Epsom is a Village of Surrey, lovely for situation, 
 surrounded by incomparable charms of scenery, and of 
 wondrous salubrity, in which it is, perhaps, the most 
 favored spot of that county on which the far-famed Evelyn 
 pours forth his well weighed praise when he says in his 
 Diary, " I will say nothing of the air because the pre- 
 eminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being dry 
 and sandy," No river meanders through its streets, but 
 still its very name bespeaks the presence of the " fountain 
 goddess." EbbishamJ Ebesham, Epseham, for so it has 
 been called at various periods of its history in the olden 
 time, seem to receive their derivation from the presence of 
 a remarkable intermitting spring, situate in the adjoining 
 chalk hills, called the Earthbourn, which there gushes and 
 flows and then disappears. " Ebbe," the Saxon word for 
 "ebb" (recessus aquarumj, and "ham" a village, form 
 the foundation for these names. The Saxon women of 
 rank were frequently named after their inheritances. And 
 from this gushing spring, the princess Ebba received her 
 baptismal title, when at the font, A.D. 660, Bishop Wilfred 
 received her into the bosom of the Church. Her palace 
 was supposed to have stood near the site of the farm-house 
 in the present occupation of Mr. Price, since known as 
 Epsom Court. There she grew up and sung and loved ; 
 and there she wedded with heart as well as hand, the brave 
 and pious Frithwald, the first Christian Saxon king. The 
 Parish of Epsom is bounded on the North by Chessington 
 and part of Maiden ; on the East by Ewell ; on the South 
 by Banstead, Headley, and Walton-on-the-Hill ; and on 
 the South West by Ashtead. 
 
 The Manor of Epsom belonged to the Monastery of
 
 THE BLACK ABBOT. 
 
 Chertsey before the Norman Conquest. In Domesday- 
 Book we have this mention made of it. " The Abbott 
 holds Ebesham which in the time of King Edward was 
 assessed at 33 hides ; now at 1 1 hides. The arable land 
 consisted of 17 carucates. There is 1 carucate in demesne; 
 and 34 villains and 4 borders, have 17 carucates. There 
 are two churches ; and six bondmen, and two mills valued 
 at 10 shillings, and 24 acres of meadow. The wood yields 
 20 swine. In the time of King Edward it was valued at 
 20J., now at 17/. 
 
 The Abbot here mentioned was called, so says tradition, 
 the Black Abbot of Chertsey, and there is a very curious 
 legend connected with this adjective-title (black). I am 
 sorry to say, that it is calculated to set in no very beautiful 
 light woman in general, while the benignity of the Virgin 
 Mary, and the virtue of the Abbot are largely insisted on. 
 It seems that a neighbouring princess Coronetta became 
 enamoured of this good Abbot, who was in the prime of 
 life, and a decidedly handsome man. She used many arts 
 to win him from the- Church, to which he was pledged by 
 vows of perpetual celibacy, but in vain. At last, no longer 
 mistress of her prudence, she sent a troop of her maidens 
 to seize him, as he passed from the Abbey to a chapel nigh 
 at hand. The Abbot, unsuspicious of any plot, was not 
 turned from his way, as they approached him with songs, 
 and shouts, and merry dances. They fell upon him with 
 their united force and were about to bear him off to their 
 mistress' castle. Frantic (it is related) at his impending 
 fate, the wretched man asked but for time to repeat his 
 matins at the Chapel altar, which was granted. 
 
 Going thither, he prayed earnestly to the Virgin that he
 
 10 MANOK OF EPSOM. 
 
 might be made an object loathsome to behold, rather than 
 he should fall into the hands of this wicked Princess, to 
 be forced from the path of perpetual single blessedness. 
 The prayer, it is said, was heard, and the legend concludes 
 by stating that he immediately became perfectly " black 
 in the face." When he returned to the young ladies, 
 they thought it was the enemy of souls, scampered off 
 as pale as ghosts, and the Princess was for ever cured 
 of her unlawful passion. But the cognomen clung to the 
 Abbot of Chertsey through all generations. 
 
 This is a silly legend, but shows how many things in 
 Roman Catholicism take their rise in Paganism. Our 
 classical readers will remember ArethuSas' request to 
 Diana, as she fled from Alpheus, and its answer, by her 
 being turned, through the kindness of the Goddess, into a 
 fountain. 
 
 After various vicissitudes, Henry VHIth became pos- 
 sessed, in A.D. 1537, of the Manor of Epsom. Mr. 
 Manning, in his History of Surrey, says that he purchased 
 it, but I am afraid the purchase-irioney was not very 
 considerable. However, the King, shortly after, gave the 
 Manor to Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, who did not 
 long enjoy either his possessions or the King's favour, for 
 shortly after, he was accused of treason, convicted, and 
 executed. 
 
 Epsom, therefore, became again forfeited to the Crown, 
 and was retained among the crown lands until A.D. 1589, 
 when Queen Elizabeth gave it to Edward Darcy, Esq., 
 groom of the privy chamber, a wild and careless fellow, 
 who having lost much at the gambling table was compelled 
 shortly to sell to George Mynn, Esq., of Lincoln's-inn.
 
 MANOR OF EPSOM. 11 
 
 In the changes of things, Mr. Mynn died, leaving a 
 widow, who was daughter to Sir Robert Parkhurst, of 
 Pyrford. She bequeathed it to her daughter Elizabeth, 
 the wife of Richard Evelyn, the younger brother of the 
 well-known author of " Sylva." Mrs. Evelyn became a 
 widow, and leaving no issue, her five children having died 
 in their youth, she devised her estates to trustees for her 
 sister Ann, who was now married to Sir William Morley, 
 her first husband having been Sir John Lewknor, for 
 her life. She left the remainder to her nephew, John 
 Lewknor, as a life interest, and then to his issue by any 
 wife, except his then wife Jane. She after left remainders 
 successively to John Parkhurst, of Catesby, and Nathaniel 
 his son. The estate came down to John Parkhurst, son of 
 the above Nathaniel. He had issue four sons. By a 
 family arrangement there was power given to the father to 
 appoint his estates, which he by his will, A.D. 1762, de- 
 vised to trustees thus, on trust for his wife for life, then 
 to be sold and the proceeds to be divided among the 
 younger sons. To his eldest son he gave the advowson 
 of the vicarage. 
 
 Ricarda dying, A.D. 1770, the Manor was sold to Sir 
 Joseph Mawbey, and thence descended to Sir Joseph his 
 son. He died, A.D. 1817, and was succeeded by Emily 
 his eldest daughter. She dying, the property came to her 
 sister Anna Maria, who, A.D 1819, married John Ivatt 
 Uriscoe, Esq., M.P. for West Surrey. 
 
 This is a valuable estate and might be made far more so, 
 if the terms of enfranchisement from Copyhold, now so 
 high, and so injurious to the interests of the town, were 
 made sufficiently easy, to encourage the building of
 
 12 VILLAGE OF EPSOM. 
 
 suitable houses for those who are so desirous to press into 
 Epsom, to enjoy the beauties of its incomparable neigh- 
 bourhood. Shortsighted, indeed, seems the present mode 
 of procedure as regards this property. 
 
 The manor of Horton, which mingles with the property 
 of Epsom, is held now by the representatives of J. 
 Trotter, Esq. It has a small village of straggling houses, 
 which forms a hamlet of the parish of Epsom 
 
 Epsom Court, which we have already noticed, as near 
 the supposed site of Ebbas palace, was anciently the 
 Manor House of Epsom, but it is now a farm house in the 
 occupation of Mr. Price, with about three hundred acres 
 of land attached to it. It was not sold with the Manor in 
 1770, but, with the greater tithes became the property of 
 the daughter of the Rev. John Parkhurst, author of the 
 Greek Lexicon, a work which has long held a high place 
 in the estimation of students of the Greek Testament. 
 From this lady they passed to the Rev. Fleetwood Park- 
 hurst, late Vicar of Epsom. 
 
 We shall say but little about the village of Epsom itself. 
 It is a large and populous place, which indeed should 
 scarce be called a village. A little care and removal of 
 certain hindrances would give it quickly all the advantages 
 of a market town. 
 
 There are here two good Bookselling establishments; 
 several extensive shops, and a supply constantly main- 
 tained of fish, meat, poultry, bacon, &c., in quality second 
 to none. 
 
 Numbers of pretty villas are almost incorporated with 
 the main thoroughfares, and daily this village is increasing 
 in size and importance, chiefly through the influence of
 
 ACCOMMODATION OF EPSOM. 13 
 
 the two lines of Rail, which feed it; one running from 
 Waterloo Bridge, which is reached in about thirty-five 
 minutes thereby, and the other from London Bridge which 
 is gained in about fifty minutes. 
 
 Thus it would quickly become the abode of London 
 merchants of different grades, as already it has in some 
 degree, but for the incubus of that depressing and short- 
 sighted law of copyhold of which we have spoken, which 
 renders it almost impossible to obtain on reasonable terms, 
 ground for building. If this hindrance were removed, 
 then this lovely retreat would afford its shade to many a 
 weary one, and refresh him for further toils in building 
 up the nations greatness. 
 
 There are several Hotels and Inns where the traveller 
 may find refreshment and repose. We would specify a 
 few of the more prominent. The King's Head, kept by 
 Mr. Lumley, is a house where every want will be well 
 supplied. It is situate in a fine open space opposite the 
 Clock Tower. The landlord is most kind and attentive to 
 his guests, while Mrs. Lumley's remarkable anticipation 
 of every wish, and gentle assiduity, render this an abode 
 peculiarly suited for families requiring kind consideration. 
 The viands are noted for being always of the very best 
 description, and the charges moderate. A table d'hote is 
 well supplied every Wednesday. The large assembly 
 room attached to this hotel was built by Mr. Andrews, 
 architect; it is 65 feet long, 19 broad, and 18 high. In 
 this are held county balls and dinners, with occasional 
 concerts, and other assembly fetes. 
 
 The Spread Eagle is a Family and Commercial hotel 
 with ample accommodation, occupying also a good central
 
 14 BANKS AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 position oppogite the Terminus of the South-Western 
 Branch Station, and having a frontage up High Street to- 
 wards the Clock Tower. The proprietors, Mr. &c Mrs. Hunt, 
 seem to spare no trouble or expense, to render this house 
 worthy of the Town. A spacious assembly room nearly 
 60 feet long by 19 j feet broad is adapted for county and 
 assembly meetings, and within it, occasionally used as a 
 supper room, is a large and airy Billiard room well lighted 
 and ventilated. The private sitting rooms and the bed 
 rooms are of a very superior order, and the charges 
 extremely moderate for so well conducted an establish- 
 ment. A table d'hote is spread every Wednesday for the 
 convenience of the visitors to the weekly market, which 
 we hear is liberally supplied at a very small charge. 
 Families may be accommodated with every comfort, while 
 they sojourn here either to view the charming scenery of 
 the neighbourhood of Epsom, or to try the noted salubrity 
 of its air. 
 
 There is also another Hotel called the Albion, R. Wood, 
 proprietor, where families and commercial gentlemen will 
 meet with kind attention. 
 
 Two Branch Banks are well upheld one a scion of 
 the London and County Joint Stock Bank, and under the 
 management of M. J. Willis, Esq. The other, connected 
 with the West Surrey Bank, manager, G. Coppard, Esq. 
 The Savings' Bank stands in High street, its prosperity 
 is a matter of congratulation, aiding as it does the en- 
 couragement of thrift in the lower classes. H. Gosse, Esq., 
 has been its energetic Treasurer since its commencement 
 nearly 40 years ago. The managers who assist him are 
 chosen from the principal gentry and tradesmen of Epsom.
 
 NURSERY GARDENS. 15 
 
 There also is a Literary and Scientific Institution in which 
 lectures on different subjects are given. The chief news- 
 papers are taken in, and some periodicals; while the Library 
 has many excellent works, either purchased from the 
 funds, or presented by kind donors who have had the 
 Avelfare thereof at heart. It is much to be wished that 
 means would permit a more solid and comfortable building 
 to be erected for the use of this valuable institution. 
 
 The town is well lighted with gas from a gasometer 
 situate on the road to Ewell, small, but reflecting great 
 credit on its management. Both the public lights and the 
 supply for private consumption seem to afford complete 
 satisfaction. The lighting of the Town for the first time, 
 signalised the marriage of our beloved Queen, in 1840. 
 The gasometer was built the year preceding. This 
 Company is managed by a Board of Directors elected 
 annually. 
 
 There are two Nursery Gardens on the road to Ewell. 
 Mr. Morse cultivates one, and seems to be successful in 
 obtaining a good show of the various flowers in their 
 seasons. This nursery, though under an acre of ground 
 only, has a fine stock of garden plants and fruit trees. 
 
 The once far-famed Nursery Grounds of the Messrs. 
 Young, are now in possession of Mr. George S. Dods, 
 Avho is fast progressing towards even a greater reputation 
 as nurseryman than that which his predecessors held. 
 He has been in possession but a short time, and yet has 
 already erected some very fine glass structures, with all 
 the modern improvements, which are well worthy of 
 inspection by those about to build glass houses, so com- 
 plete are their ventilating as well as heating arrangements,
 
 16 NURSERY GARDENS. 
 
 and so inexpensive their cost. These consist already of 
 the New Holland House, for the culture of New Holland 
 and Cape plants ; the Propagating House, for Geraniums 
 and Specimen Plants ; the Show House, which looks at 
 all seasons very gay ; while there are two very fine 
 ranges of Pits for the culture of plants for the flower 
 garden. These houses and pits are so arranged as to 
 enable them all, and also those which the proprietor 
 proposes to add this year, to be heated by one powerful 
 boiler. 
 
 It is wonderful how much has been done here in so 
 short a time. The large stock of plants already pro- 
 pagated reflects great credit on Mr. G. Dodds' industry 
 and skill. The borders outside the houses are neatly laid 
 out for utility as well as ornament, and are always full of 
 the novelties of each season for flower garden decoration. 
 The nursery ground in the rear contains in addition, 
 4 acres, this is planted with a very choice collection of 
 fruit trees, roses, herbaceous plants, evergreens, and 
 deciduous shrubs. It appears to be the present proprietors 
 aim to make this nursery serve as a promenade for the 
 inhabitants of Epsom, &c. We find on reference to the 
 prize lists, that Mr. Dodd is well known in the horticul- 
 tural world as a first-class cultivator of all classes of 
 plants, having taken upwards of four hundred prizes at 
 the Metropolitan and local shows. His name figures for 
 prizes gained at Chiswick, Royal Botanic Gardens, Crystal 
 Palace, Oxford, Windsor, Reading, Chertsey, and Staines: 
 And we have no doubt that if we succeed in having a 
 good Epsom Floral Show, he will be a prize-man there 
 too.
 
 PITT PI,ACE. 17 
 
 Near the Church there is a mansion called Pitt Place, 
 so called from its site having been originally a chalk pit, 
 with little remarkable in itself, but noted as the abode, 
 during the law vacations, of Lord Chief Justice Lyttleton, 
 part author of the well-known Book of Precedents, by 
 Coke and Lyttleton. 
 
 There is a strange tale of a ghost having appeared at 
 his residence in London just before the occasion of his 
 death. 
 
 He had lately returned from Ireland, and had been 
 attacked several times by suffocating fits while in London. 
 In the visions of the night, while he tossed upon his bed 
 restlessly, he thought he heard a noise as of the sound of 
 wings ; raising himself upon his arm, there appeared to 
 him a dove, of beautiful plumage ; poising itself upon its 
 fluttering pinions above his bed, it seemed to look mourn- 
 fully upon him awhile, and then departed. 
 
 Some short time after, and ere his astonishment had 
 passed away, a female form in white apparel stood by the 
 side of his bed, it was a face he knew, that of one he had 
 deeply injured, and who lived far away. He could not 
 speak. She waved her hand, it was the hand of a corpse ; 
 she placed her face very near his, it was the face of one 
 from whom life had fled ; her eye was glazed by the hand 
 of death. At last she spoke, her words were these "Lord 
 Lyttleton, prepare to die.!" In a trembling voice, he 
 asked, "When?" She said, "Ere three days have reached 
 their close you must die." He was so dreadfully alarmed 
 that when his servant obeyed his piteous call, he found 
 his master in a profuse perspiration, with eyes staring and 
 his whole frame working with agitation. 
 
 c
 
 18 THE GHOST STORY. 
 
 The circumstance liad a depressing effect upon him for 
 some hours, but quickly this careless nobleman shook off' 
 his gloom. 
 
 On the third day, while breakfasting with some friends, 
 and among them the daughters of the person he had seen, 
 he jocularly remarked "If I live over to-night, I shall 
 have jockied the ghost." The whole party set off for Pitt 
 Place. On their arrival his Lordship had a sharp attack 
 but recovered from it. He went early to bed, and having 
 sent his servant for a spoon to stir his medicine, on the 
 man's return he found his master in a fit. His alarm was so 
 great, probably having his mind set on the prediction, that 
 instead of relieving the pressure upon his neck, he ran to 
 alarm the house. On his return he found his Lord dead 
 
 It is stated that Mrs. Amphlett who he thought had 
 appeared to him, died of grief, from the fact of the 
 abduction of her two daughters, who had followed Lord 
 Lyttleton, at the precise hour when the female vision 
 appeared to his Lordship. 
 
 There are many versions of this story, but the pre- 
 ceding is, .we believe, the most authentic. It is not the 
 first case in which there have been impressions on the 
 minds of the guilty similar to this, and certainly there 
 have been many -remarkable coincidences between the 
 time when a mind has been so impressed, and the iime 
 when the death of that person whose image seemed 
 presented to the eye took place. We cannot attempt to 
 explain a matter so inscrutable and so strange. 
 
 Pitt Place is now occupied by Francis Somerville 
 Head, Esq., son of the well-known and talented Sir 
 Francis Head, Bart., author of many exquisite works in.
 
 NELL GWYNN'S HOUSE. 19 
 
 literature, among them " Bubbles from the Brunnens," 
 " Stokers and Pokers," &c. There did exist in the 
 conservatory a myrtle tree of extraordinary dimensions, 
 having been two feet in girth, and 16 feet high ; but the 
 present proprietor, seeing probably that it had outlived its 
 beauty, cut it down as cumbering the ground. 
 
 Opposite the Clock Tower in High Street, is the King's 
 Head Hotel, now a large, commodious, and excellently 
 conducted first-class house, kept by Mr. Lumley. This 
 inn is remarkable as having been in the olden time, before 
 its complete restoration, the place of sojourn for many 
 lords and ladies of the Court of Charles II., whose names 
 figure, respectably or otherwise, on the page of history. 
 
 The house directly adjoining, now in the occupation of 
 Mr. Parker, provision merchant and grocer, is one which 
 from its associations attracts attention. It is connected 
 with a well-known person of olden days, who strange to 
 say has always been popular with the English people. 
 You remark that house with those two bay windows, 
 fronted until lately by a balcony which has been just 
 taken away. This house the infamous but noted Eleanor 
 Gwynn frequented Nell Gwynn, who sometime swayed 
 a monarchs mind (and chiefly to good and kind actions 
 very foreign to the royal nature). There lived this being (so 
 thoughtless for herself, so thoughtful for others) with Lord 
 Buckhurst; and in that balcony was accustomed to sit, 
 watching the fashionable throng as they passed on in 
 search of health or pleasure to the Wells. At the other 
 side of the' Town, opposite Pitt Place, near the Parish 
 Church, stables still stand, built by the dissipated and 
 giddy Charles, for her use. 
 
 c 2
 
 20 NELL GWYNN. 
 
 Hateful as it is to refer in any way to this silly and 
 debased monarch and his guilty course, the Hand-Book 
 of Epsom would not be complete in its history, without a 
 reference to the residence here of this remarkable though 
 sinful woman. It is to be hoped that Gibbers information 
 regarding her repentance is well founded. He thus 
 writes, " Her repentance in her last hours, I have been 
 unquestionably informed, appeared in all the contrite 
 symptoms of a Christian sincerity." And again "Wigmore 
 writes to Sir George Etheridge, then Envoy at Ratisbon, 
 " She is said to have died piously and penitently, and as 
 she dispensed several charities in her lifetime, so she left 
 several such legacies at her death." 
 
 She left a will, a singular document ; its second clause 
 desired, " that Dr. Tenison may preach my funeral ser- 
 mon." And strange to say, the Doctor, afterwards Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, did preach the funeral sermon of 
 Nell Gwynn. It did seem bold in Tenison to preach 
 such a sermon, though we are not told what its drift was ; 
 but it was probably, pointing to the sin of the King as 
 well as of his paramour, and faithfully warning others 
 against their example. 
 
 However, the fact of his having preached it, was 
 attempted to be used for his destruction. When, in A.D. 
 1691, the see of Lincoln was vacant, and about to be 
 given to Tenison; Viscount Villiers, himself once the 
 basest profligate of a debauched court, made it a reason 
 to Queen Mary for the exclusion of the Doctor, that 
 " he had preached a notable funeral sermon in praise of 
 Nell Gwynn." But Mary, the wife of William the third, 
 had her own opinions of the Doctors worth, and was not
 
 NELL GWTNN. 21 
 
 to be easily prejudiced against him. " I have heard as 
 much," said Mary, and this is a happy sign that the poor 
 unfortunate woman died penitent, for, if I have read a 
 man's heart through his looks, had she not made a truly 
 pious end, the Doctor could never have been induced to 
 speak well of her," Tenison was appointed to Lincoln, 
 and afterwards, the Primacy becoming vacant, he became 
 Archbishop of Canterbury. He was certainly the best 
 judge, as far as man can judge, of the sincerity of this 
 poor Magdalenes repentance. And with his Saviour's 
 commission in his hand, he could offer God's pardon, 
 through that Saviour, to the very chiefest of sinners, 
 repentant and believing in Him. 
 
 Nell Gwynn was born in Drury Lane, became an orange 
 girl at the Theatre, and afterwards a most successful 
 actress of Comedy. It is just possible that it was she, 
 whom the quaint but lively High Commissioner Pepys 
 met, when (as in his Diary) he writes, " I was challenged 
 in the pit for the price of twelve oranges which the orange 
 girl said I owed her, but which I think was wholly untrue, 
 however I was not content with denying the debt, but for 
 quiet, bought four shillings worth of oranges from her at 
 sixpence a piece." He calls her all through his Diary " the 
 pretty witty Nell." 
 
 She shortly afterwards was chosen to represent promi- 
 nent points on the stage, where she gained considerable 
 repute ; Pepys says, regarding one scenic representation, 
 " The King and the Duke of York were present ; the 
 play was so done by Nelly, her merry part, as cannot 
 be done better in nature ; it is impossible to have Florimels 
 part, which is the most comical ever made for woman, 
 done better than by Nelly."
 
 22 
 
 Nell Gwynn then came to Epsom, in the meridian of 
 her beauty, as a healthy and fashionable resort of the 
 citizens of London. 
 
 Thomas Shadwell has written a comedy entitled " Epsom 
 Wells" licensed in 1673-r-which Dryden with true judge- 
 ment stigmatizes with some such title as " hungry Epsom 
 prose," but in which however we find a very true and 
 amusing though sad description of Epsom as it was then, 
 when indeed no virtuous man should have chosen it as his 
 families home, though alas ! every place which the court 
 breathed upon, grew equally cankered at that time. 
 
 The waters of Epsom were then considered efficacious 
 equally with those of Tunbridge Wells, one being fre- 
 quented, perhaps, more by the dwellers in the East, the 
 other by those in the West of London. 
 
 Pepys writes, as we mentioned above, that it was in the 
 next house to the King's Head that " Nell Gwynn and 
 Lord Buckhurst put up, keeping merry house " Alas ! 
 the thoughtless brings ! while they revelled, there were 
 sad hearts elsewhere, and a panic through the nation. 
 
 The years 1665, 1666, and 1667, were remarkable for 
 the Plague, the Fire of London, and finally the National 
 disgrace, well merited as a judgment upon the nation, of 
 a Dutch Fleet in the Thames insulting Englands flag. 
 
 But a brighter cotemporary scene may be painted dur- 
 ing the period of Nell Gwynn's residence in Epsom. An 
 old man, venerable but noble in his appearance, sat in his 
 chair by a low table. His outer sight was gone ; but the 
 fire of his minds eye burned brighter than ever the outer 
 sight was wont to wander over the brightest scenes of 
 earth with rapture, and to draw from them earths poetry '
 
 THE GROVE, THE VICARAGE 
 
 But alas ! the dark cloud had spread over that outer sight, 
 and those bright scenes could charm no more. But the 
 inner sight could now take a higher flight, pierce through, 
 and draw from heaven brighter and lovelier syllables of 
 things more glorious far. The blind man dictates, and 
 the beautiful gentle girl that sits by his feet, she writes. 
 That is the old mans favourite daughter, the old man is the 
 poet Milton, and the production " Paradise lost." Evelyn 
 tells us that this work (sold by Milton for 12) was most 
 unpopular, when first published, as coming from the hand 
 of " that Milton who wrote for the Regicides." 
 
 At the upper end of Church Street, is the entrance 
 lodge of the Grove. This is a very beautiful residence in 
 the centre of grounds finely planted, the conservatories 
 are handsome, and well stored with choice exotics. A 
 very excellent view has been gained of the old Church 
 tower, as well as a larger area gathered from the inlrud- 
 ing foliage, by the hewing of a few fine trees. 
 
 There can scarce be imagined a more delightful retreat 
 than this is ; the night bird of song makes it his merriest 
 musical hall, and by day there is no end to the most 
 glorious concerts of the "feathered songsters of the 
 grove." This is the residence of R. Carter, Esq. 
 
 The Vicarage stands opposite the Grove ; it is a very 
 comfortable brick house with grounds in the rear. It was 
 erected from designs of J. M. Brooks, Esq., for the pre- 
 sent Vicar the Rev. Benjamin Bradney Bockett. He is 
 resident here. Adjoining the grounds of the Vicarage is 
 " the Vicarage Sunday and Day School," which has been 
 built by the exertions of the Vicar and his friends. Here 
 upwards of 80 children are educated in the Scriptural
 
 24 THE CEDARS SHABON TURNER. 
 
 principles of our Holy religion. This School is in union 
 with that admirable institution " the Home and Colonial 
 School Society," and is regularly inspected by the Agents 
 of the Society. There are two very fine yew trees front- 
 ing the house of the Vicar, which has several portions of 
 the old building still remaining, the materials of which 
 were drawn from the old Palace of Nonsuch. 
 
 The next house, called the Cedars because two hand- 
 some cedars stand in front, from their size, forming an 
 interesting addition to the scene, is quite an ornament to 
 that part of the town ; it is a large brick structure, half 
 covered with ivy. It is now in the occupation of Miss 
 Eisdell, who is head of a select establishment for young 
 ladies. The residence of Henry Gosse, Esq., author of 
 part translation, of Tasso, and Ovid ; R. Gillespie, Esq. ; 
 George Giberne, Esq., and others make Epsom, with its 
 environs, one of the sweetest villages in the land, by 
 reason of the trees and lawns and flowers with which, 
 through these, its streets are surrounded. 
 
 In a house off High Street and facing the Station of 
 the Railway, which runs to Waterloo bridge, lived for 
 many years, one of whose residence Epsom may well be 
 proud, Sharon Turner, one of the clearest philosophers 
 as well as sublime writers of any time. 
 
 With language majestic as that of Chalmers', his philo- 
 sophy was as deep as that of Butler ; while with a sim- 
 plicity full of grace and peculiarly his own, he handled all 
 topics with the hand of a master of the very purest 
 English idiom. 
 
 His writings are very comprehensive, and yet, possess- 
 ing great unity of design We more particularly remark
 
 SHAEON TURNER. 25 
 
 this desire after unity, in his poem of Richard the 3rd, 
 which I deem his only failure ; but in which he endeavours 
 to show, in a most novel way, Richard's mind working ; 
 whence he deduces an apology for many of his worst 
 actions. This work he means to be applied in its prin- 
 ciple, to all his works of history, whence he supposes that 
 clearer insight will be had into the characters of those 
 who moved upon the worlds eventful stage. His History 
 of England in three parts the Anglo Saxons the Mid- 
 dle Ages the Modern history of England, in all 12 vol- 
 umes, are subjects for a charming study ; and the " Sacred 
 History of the World as displayed in the Creation" is a 
 marvel of wisdom and philosophy ; while it has an insen- 
 sible traction to the least studious mind, which forces it on, 
 when once it has entered the subject it treats of. The 
 student of English literature who wishes really to elevate 
 his taste as well as to enrich his mind, will not fail to have, 
 ever among the choicest treasures of his library, the works 
 of Sharon Turner, F.S.A. In the late Sir Robert Peel 
 Mr. Turner had an ardent admirer ; that great statesman 
 recommended him to the Crown for a literary pension 
 while it is well known that often in Parliament, he quoted 
 his works. His son William was married to Miss Sarah 
 Rodgers, sister to our townsman Thomas Rodgers, Esq., 
 Solicitor. 
 
 We would refer the ladies of Epsom to that beautiful 
 passage in the " History of the Creation," vol. 1, page 544 
 where he thus wrote, and with the experience of seventy 
 summers to mature his judgement. " One of the most 
 beautiful interesting and benevolent ideas of the Divine 
 mind, in His creation of the terrestrial economy was the
 
 26 SHABON TURNER. 
 
 conception and formation of the Female sex. No other 
 production has contributed so much to the improvement 
 and happiness of human nature. It was the divinest of 
 our Great Authors works on earth, for it was one of the 
 wisest as well as loveliest of His philanthropic inventions. 
 When he declared, as the reason of this particular crea- 
 tion, "It was not good for man to be alone," he pro- 
 nounced a truth which every age and clime and nation 
 have verified. The poet Gay's dramatic exclamation, 
 " We had been brutes without you," is not a Parnassian 
 hyperbole. It is the simple and everlasting truth ; not so 
 much, perhaps, to the credit of our self love as we should 
 desire, but an admirable comment on our Creators recorded 
 observation." 
 
 And in the hope of awakening a desire in all to peruse 
 this noble work, we may be excused for referring to his 
 chapters on " the Bird Creation, Plumage and Song " 
 " the formation of Quadrupeds," and " the principles of 
 Man's creation," and for quoting an example of his philoso- 
 phic style, when he says in the commencement of the first 
 volume " In the following reflections, the important sub- 
 jects of thought which occur to the enquiring mind on the 
 recorded subject of the primeval history of man during the 
 first period of his being a period which in the shortest 
 computation comprised the first 1656 years of human 
 existence will be considered as they arise with con- 
 tinual deference to the authority from which the facts are 
 taken, but with the exercise of that mental investigation 
 which is usually termed philosophical." 
 
 No arrogant assumption is intended by this epithet : it 
 is a word which is used to denote an inquiry into the
 
 SHARON TURNER. 27 
 
 principles of what we discuss, according to those of our 
 just knowledge on all natural phenomena a mental 
 investigation that searches for intelligible causes and 
 agencies consistent with those with which we are already 
 acquainted, and which seem to be most certain. It is an 
 endeavour to illustrate by reason what we believe upon 
 proper authority. I have always found my own belief 
 most steady whenever I traced it to be in coincidence with 
 my other knowledge ; and it is my earnest desire that in all 
 things your belief may be accompanied by your judge- 
 ment ; and that Faith and Reason may in you be always 
 in that pleasing union, which will ever constitute the 
 soundest and largest mind, and yield the greatest comfort. 
 I cannot pretend to do more than to explain to you those 
 inferences and reasonings which have satisfied myself. 
 It is absurd for any human being, uninspired, to domineer 
 over another. I would not attempt to do so. It would be 
 both unjust and foolish. It would fail in its effect, and 
 be contrary to the well-founded claim which every one has 
 to judge for himself, under his own responsibility to the 
 Deity, who rightfully claims our implicit obedience and 
 immediate acquiescence in all that he discloses. 
 
 Before the period of Sharon Turner's residence in this 
 place, one of very different stamp was wont to sojourn there. 
 George the IV when Prince of Wales dwelt here for a 
 time with his injured but faithful wife Mrs. Fitzherbert. 
 It will be seen that, when the whim served, he was as 
 careless of the dignity of his abode here below, as he was 
 of securing an inheritance in the land afar off. The house 
 is very humble, and now, from the circumstances of its 
 position, as well as from its age, falling into decay.
 
 THE OLD ASSEMBLY BOOM. 
 
 THE NEW INN, 1706. 
 
 In High Street there is an antique but noble building, 
 belonging to Mr. Bailey, Goods Merchant (whose ware- 
 rooms now possess the place of bygone revelry,) well 
 worthy cf the attention of the traveller. This was the 
 great Inn, in the times of the old Wells. It possessed a 
 noble Assembly room which still exists in its altered form. 
 An archway now built up, but which did run quite 
 through the centre of what is Mr. Bailey's shop, may be 
 traced on the Eastern wall. In times prior even to those 
 of which we speak, Cockfighting prevailed largely at 
 Epsom, and the back of these premises was devoted to 
 this odious amusement in the times of Charles II. 
 
 Just beyond the archway of the line to Leatherhead,
 
 JOHN TOLAND. 29 
 
 lived Lord Byron, who succeeded to the title and estates of 
 the Poet. His house was some time since pulled down ; 
 the site is occupied by malting premises. 
 
 I shall conclude this chapter, already carried to a con- 
 siderable length, by a very beautiful letter from Mr. 
 Toland (John) to a lady of his acquaintance whom he 
 styles " Eudoxa." You will find it at full length in 
 Toland' s description of Epsom in his " Itinerary " a rare 
 work. Toland himself resided in Epsom, in the reign of 
 Queen Anne, at the time when her consort Prince George 
 of Denmark was accustomed to visit Epsom to drink the 
 waters. It is quoted in a remarkable old book entitled 
 " A journey through England, in familiar letters from a 
 gentleman to his friend abroad, printed at London, for 
 John Hooke, at the Flower de Luce, over against St. 
 Dustan's Church in Fleet Street, in the year of grace, 
 1724." 
 
 This old book has been kindly lent to me for the pur- 
 pose of this work by Mr. Ward one of the leading medical 
 men at present in Epsom, brother to Mr. Ward whose 
 simple but valuable invention of the closely glazed case, 
 has not only called forth the gratitude of many a worn 
 invalid as she revelled in the beauties of her bedroom- 
 garden but also has added to the facilities of the trans- 
 port of many a rare exotic from other climes, which else 
 could never have appeared in our conservatories. 
 
 I am aware that it has been quoted by the able writer 
 of the " Bye lanes of England" who stumbled upon it (he, 
 says), in rummaging an old book stall in one of the 
 ancient cities of lower Normandy. It arose however 
 before my magic wand, more gently and gracefully, from
 
 30 JOHN TOLA.ND. 
 
 the midst of a well- stored and well -regulated library, and 
 itself, so long a regular steady inhabitant of Epsom, may 
 as well speak to the praise of that town, as its more 
 travelled brother. 
 
 This quaint letter writer gives us a most graphic sketch 
 of Epsom and its peculiarities, as they presented them- 
 selves in the year 1723, the 9th year of the reign of 
 George the 1st. 
 
 Before quoting the letter above-mentioned he says in 
 his own "Epsom is a charming town, which from the 
 Church to my Lord Guilford's palace, may make a good 
 mile and a half in a semicircle. All the houses have 
 gardens and trees before the doors, so that it seems a 
 continued grove ; and the plain in the midst of the semi- 
 circle may be half a mile over, opening to the Downs. 
 
 This place being nearer London than Tunbridge, is 
 more frequented by the citizens for its purging mineral 
 waters tinctured with alum, and good air, and what is 
 extremely convenient, you have a travelling market of 
 fish, flesh, fowl and fruit brought to your door every 
 morning. 
 
 Here are two bowling-greens, with raffling shops and 
 music for the ladies diversion, as at Tunbridge ; but the 
 ladies do not appear every day on the walks as there. 
 Here you see them, on Saturdays, in the evening, as their 
 husbands come from London ; on Sundays at church, and 
 on Mondays in all their splendour when there are Balls in 
 the Long-rooms ; and many of them shake their elbows at 
 Passage and Hazard with a good grace. 
 
 This place abounds with that vermin called sharpers 
 as Tunbridge does ; and one risks very much that plays
 
 JOHN TOLAND. 31 
 
 further than raffling with the ladies. 
 
 Epsom is the place in. the world the freest from censure 
 and observation ; for mankind seems to be here incognito 
 all the week, except on Monday's and Saturday's at even ; 
 and you may be here a year together before your nearest 
 acquaintance asks you where you lodge except you invite 
 him ; everybody seems to have business enough, on their 
 own hands, of his own not to mind that of everybody 
 else." 
 
 Happy, Happy Epsom of 1723. It has been long con- 
 tested by philosophers, whether there ever was a golden 
 age, or whether it was merely a fabled state of existence, 
 or if there was a golden age, it has been eagerly enquired 
 of them when? Behold ye philosophers! in Epsom A.D. 
 1 723, the golden age did positively exist, alas ! so soon to 
 end, when " everybody seemed to have business enough 
 on his own hands not to mind that of any body else. 
 
 " After dinner (our letter writer proceeds) we ride out 
 on the Downs, which are very fine indeed, or take a coach 
 to the Ring, where all the good company of the neigh- 
 bourhood come in fine weather, and at night, a party at 
 cards, raffling in the Long-rooms, &c., finishes off our 
 evening. 
 
 On Sundays in the afternoon, the company generally go 
 to a charming place called Box Hill, about six miles off, 
 where there is no house, but arbours cut out in box-wood 
 from the top of the hill, and there you may have for your 
 money all manner of refreshments ; from hence one hath a 
 most delicious, commanding prospect of a fine country, 
 and it may be justly called the Palace of Venus. 
 
 This place was first planted with boxwood by that
 
 32 JOHN TOLAND. 
 
 famous antiquary Thomas, Earl of Arundel, designing to 
 have built a house there ; but want of water made him 
 alter his resolution, and build one at Albury hard by, now 
 belonging to the Earl of Aylsford, and which sufficiently 
 justified the true idea the world have had of that great 
 Architect, its first founder. 
 
 If you would know Epsom more particularly, and in 
 more florid style than what I can express myself in, you 
 will find it in the following diverting letter written by 
 Toland to his Eudoxa who desired a description of it. 
 " Madam, Epsom is a village in the county of Surrey, 
 much frequented for its most healthful air, and excellent 
 mineral waters ; is distant from London Bridge about 
 fourteen Italian miles, and twelve from Vauxhall. It is 
 deliciously situated in a warm, even bottom, between the 
 finest down in the world on the one side, (taking its name 
 from the village of Banstead, seated on their very ridge,) 
 and certain clay-hills on the other side, which are va- 
 riously chequered with woods and groves of oak, ash, elm 
 and beech ; while both the poplars, intoxicating yew, the 
 florid whitebeam, the withe-tree, the hornbeam, and the 
 correcting birch are not wanting." 
 
 The expression " intoxicating" yew may strike the rea- 
 der as curious, but it is a fact that, upon some insects, it 
 has that power the dotted chesnut moth (Glea Rubiginea) 
 which is very rare, frequents these yews when ripe, and 
 becoming intoxicated with juice is easily taken in the 
 month of October, at midnight. 
 
 Our letter writer thus proceeds " I need not mention 
 the numberless copses of hazel, thorn, maple, and other 
 trees of dwarfish growth, that agreeably diversify all this
 
 33 
 
 country ; nor that for the most part they are amorously 
 clasped in the twining embraces of ivy and honeysuckles. 
 
 The Downs, being covered with grass finer than Persian 
 carpets, and perfumed with wild thyme and Juniper, run 
 thirty miles in length, though under different appellations 
 from Croydon to Farnham." 
 
 *' And for sheep walks, riding, hunting, racing, shooting, 
 with games of most sorts for exercise of the body or re- 
 creation of the mind, and a perpetual chain of villages 
 within a mile or less of each other beneath, they are no 
 where else to be paralleled. 
 
 The form of this our village as seen from thence is sem- 
 icircular exactly, beginning with a church and ending with 
 a palace ; or, lest our style here should offend you, Madam, 
 it has a palace for its head and a church for its tail, Mr. 
 Whistlers far conspicuous grove making, as it were, 
 a beautiful knot in the middle. Epsom never misses of 
 the eastern or western sun, and is about a mile in 
 length ; the area within the bending of the bow or half- 
 moon, being a spacious plain of corn fields opening to the 
 Downs. 
 
 To these evergreen mountains of chalk you may out of 
 every house insensibly ascend, without so much as a 
 hedge to obstruct the air or the passage ; indeed the 
 risings are many times so easy, that you find yourself at 
 the top without perceiving that you have mounted. 
 
 From the circumference of the semicircle, there branches 
 out two or three pleasant lanes, being the extremities of 
 the roads which lead to the town from the slow declivities 
 of the neighbouring hills. These are preferred to the 
 principal streets by such as are lovers of silence and retire-
 
 34 TOLAND'S LETTER TO ETTDOXA. 
 
 merit, and are known by the names of Clay Hill, New Inn 
 lane, and Woodcote Green, in which last place your humble 
 servant has his hermitage. 
 
 There are other alleys and outlets of meaner note ; 
 amongst them I dont reckon the avenue leading up to 
 Durdans, the palace I just now mentioned, nor yet Hud- 
 son's lane, which I remember for the sake of Epsom court, 
 that ancient Saxon seat (long since converted into a farm,) 
 the mother and original of our subject. 
 
 Now all these bye-places are so separated from each other 
 by fields, meadows, hedge-rows, plantations, orchards, 
 and the like, that they seem to be so many distinct little 
 villages uniting into one considerable town at the large 
 street, in the middle of which stands the watch house 
 (now a clock tower) several persons who have chosen this 
 sweet place for their constant abode are distinguished from 
 the rest by their habitations, as they are by their birth or 
 fortunes ; but the houses of the very townsmen are every- 
 where mighty neat, built most of them after the newest 
 manner, and extremely convenient ; being purposely con- 
 trived for the entertainment of strangers, and therefore 
 beautified by their owners to the utmost of their ability. 
 
 The fronts are adorned throughout with rows of elm or 
 lime trees, in many places artificially wreathftd into verdant 
 porticoes, cut into a variety of figures, and close enough 
 wrought to defend those who sit under such hospitable 
 shades from the injuries of the sun and rain. 
 
 Here sometimes breakfast and supper are taken; for 
 these vegetable canopies in the very heat of the day yield 
 a grateful and refreshing coolness by the fanning breezes 
 they collect from the delicate air of the Downs. The
 
 PROSPECTS FROM THE DOWNS. 35 
 
 finest of them all is that which shades the paved terrace 
 in the centre of the town, extending quite along before the 
 chief tavern and coffee house (now the Albion Hotel.) 
 By the conversation of those who walk there, you would 
 fancy yourself to be this minute on the Exchange, and the 
 next at St. James's ; one while in an East India factory, 
 and another while with the army in Flanders, or on board 
 the fleet on the ocean ; nor is there any profession, trade, 
 or calling that you can miss of here, either for your 
 instruction or your diversion. Behind the houses are 
 handsome, though not large gardens, generally furnished 
 with pretty walks, and planted with a variety of salads 
 and fruit trees, which in several of them are left free for the 
 lodgers ; such as neglect their gardens find their error in 
 the emptiness of their rooms. 
 
 Thus when you are on the top of the Downs it is one 
 of the loveliest prospects imaginable to view in the vale 
 below, such an agreeable mixture of trees and buildings, 
 that a stranger is at a loss to know (as it has been observed 
 of my beloved city of Leyden in Holland), whether it be a 
 town in a wood, or a wood in a town. One thing is 
 wanting, and happy is the situation that wants no more ; 
 for in this place, notwithstanding the medicinal waters, 
 and sufficient for domestic use of sweeter, are not to be 
 heard the precipitant murmur of impetuous cascades. 
 
 There are no purling streams in our groves, to tempt 
 the shrill notes of the warbling choristers, whose never 
 ceasing concerts exceeds Bononcini and Corelli, 
 
 The woods are not frequented by the unhappy, that 
 they may listen to the soft whispers of some gentle rivulet 
 to beguile and mitigate their cares. The vallies are not 
 
 D2
 
 36 BOWLINO QUEENS. 
 
 divided by the circling waves and sporting whirlpools of 
 rapid rivers ; neither are the flowery meads refreshed by 
 gliding meanders, cool bubbling springs, or stagnant lakes. 
 I leave you to guess whether in those periods, 1 design to 
 show how well read I am in bombast romance, or rather 
 to exhibit the various images under which water naturally 
 delights us in the country. 
 
 Ewell an ancient market town within a short mile, has 
 a most plentiful spring, the head of a crystal brook, 
 capable, were it there, to furnish a thousand ornaments and 
 conveniences. 
 
 And I am persuaded, from physical reasons, that the 
 digging of a trench about four or five feet deep for a 
 quarter of a mile, over Epsom Court Meadows from the 
 now uncertain springs in Church Street, would quickly 
 produce a stream that in three-quarters of a mile further 
 should fall in with the other, and give it the more digni- 
 fied name of the Epsom River. But this present defect, 
 for I augurate an approaching remedy, is amply recom- 
 pensed by everything besides. The two rival bowling 
 greens are not to be forgot, on which all the company by 
 turns, after diverting themselves in the morning according 
 to their different fancies, make a gallant appearance every 
 evening, especially on Monday's ; music playing most of 
 the day, and dancing crowning sometimes the night. 
 
 The ladies, to show their innate inclination to variety, 
 are constantly tripping from one green to the other, and 
 the men are not more sure to follow them, than glad of 
 the occasion to excuse their own no less propensity to 
 change. 
 
 Here the British beauties, like so many animated stars,
 
 TOLAND'S LETTER TO EUDOXA. 37 
 
 shine in theft- brightest lustre, not half so much by their 
 precious jewels and their costly apparel, as by the more 
 pointed glories of their eyes. Here every old man wishes 
 himself young again, and the heart of every youth is 
 captivated at once, and divided between a thousand deser- 
 ving charms. 
 
 A fairer circle was never seen at Baioe or Cumoe of old, 
 nor of late at Carlsbad or Aix la Chapelle, than is to be 
 admired on the High Green and in the Longroom on 
 a public day. If the German baths outnumber us in 
 princesses, we outshine them in nympbs and goddesses, to 
 whom their princes would be proud to pay adoration. 
 
 But not to dissemble anything ; bountiful Nature has 
 likewise provided us with other faces and shapes, I may 
 add, with another set of dress, speech, and behaviour (not 
 to mention age), ordained to quench the cruel flames, or to 
 damp the inordinate desire which the young, the hand- 
 some, and the accomplished, might unfeignedly kindle. 
 So necessary is an antidote to love when the disease is so 
 catching and so fatal. In the raffling shops are lost more 
 hearts than guineas, though Cupid be no where so liberal 
 as in England. And the greatest order that in such cases 
 can be expected is preserved at the gaming tables of every 
 kind, where it is very diverting for a stander by to observe 
 the different humours and passions of both sexes, which 
 discover themselves with less art and reserve at play than 
 on any other occasion. 
 
 There you'll see a sparkish young fellow, of twenty 
 five, sitting over against a blooming beauty of eighteen, 
 but so intent on gain and dice, that he never exchanges a 
 look or word with her.
 
 TOLAND'S LETTER TO EUDOXA. 
 
 The rude, the sullen, the noisy and the affected ; the 
 peevish, the covetous, the litigious and the sharping ; 
 the proud, the prodigal, the impatient and the impertinent, 
 become visible foils to the well-bred, prudent, modest and 
 good humoured, in the eyes of all impartial beholders. 
 Our doctors instead of prescribing the waters for the 
 vapours or the spleen, order their patients to be assiduous 
 at all public meetings, knowing that if they be not them- 
 selves of the number, they'll find abundant occupation to 
 laugh at bankrupt fortune hunters, crazy, superannuated 
 beaus, married coquets, intriguing prudes, richly dressed 
 waiting maids and complimenting footmen. But being 
 convinced, Madam, that you dislike a malicious insinuation 
 as much as you approve an instructing hint, I abstain from 
 all particular characters ; sparing even those who spare 
 none but themselves. From this account it is plain we 
 are not in Heaven here, though we may justly be said to 
 be in paradise, a place co-habited by innocence and guilt, 
 by folly and fraud from the beginning. 
 
 The judicious Eudoxa will naturally conclude, that such 
 a concourse of all ranks of people must needs fill the shops 
 with most sorts of useful and substantial wares, as well as 
 with finer goods, fancies and toys. The Taverns, Inns, 
 and Coffee Houses answer the resort of the place, and I 
 must do our Coffee Houses the justice to affirm, that for 
 social virtue they are equalled by few and exceeded by 
 none, though I wish they may be imitated by all. A Tory 
 does not stare and leer when a Whig comes in, nor does 
 a Whig look sour and whisper at the sight of a Tory ; 
 these distinctions are laid by with the winter suit at 
 London, and a gayer, easier habit worn in the country.
 
 TOLAXI) S ITINERARY. 
 
 Religion, that was designed to calm, does not ruffle 
 mens tempers by irreligious wrangling ; nor does our 
 moderation appear, by rude invectives against persons we 
 do not know, no more than our charity does consist in 
 fixing odious characters on such as unwillingly dissent 
 from us, But if at any time we must deal in extremes, 
 then we prefer the quiet good natured Hypocrite to the 
 implacable turbulent Zealot of any kind." 
 
 We are not surprised at this un-English approval 
 of dishonesty on the part of Eudoxa's friend, being follow- 
 ed by the concluding sentence of this paragraph. "In 
 plain terms, we are not so fond of .any set of notions, as to 
 think them more important than the peace of society." 
 
 We omit several pages of this letter just here, as not 
 possessing so much interest whoso desires to peruse it in 
 full, can do so in Toland's " Itinerary." 
 
 But presently it proceeds " You would think yourself 
 in some enchanted camp, to see the peasants ride to every 
 house with the choicest fruits, herbs, roots and flowers, 
 with ail sorts of tame and wild fowl, with the. rarest fish 
 and venison, and with every kind of butcher's meat ; 
 among which Banstead down mutton is the most relishing 
 dainty. 
 
 Thus to see the fresh and artless damsels of the plain, 
 either accompanied by their amorous swains, or aged 
 parents, striking their bargains with the nice court and 
 city ladies, who, like Queens in a tragedy, display all their 
 finery on benches before their doors, where they hourly 
 censure and are censured, and to observe, how the hand- 
 somest of each degree equally admire, envy, and cozen one 
 another, is to me the chief amusement of the place.
 
 40 THE OLD WELLS. 
 
 The Ladies' who are too lazy or too stately, but 
 especially those that sit up late at play, have their pro- 
 visions brought to their bedsides where they conclude the 
 bargain ; and then perhaps -after a dish of chocolate, 
 take the other nap, till what they have thus bought is 
 got ready for dinner. Yet these rounds of the Higglers, 
 which I by no means would have abolished, are not 
 incompatible with a daily market in the middle of the 
 town, not only as a further entertainment for the ladies, 
 who love occasions of coming together ; but likewise 
 because a greater choice of everything may be had there, 
 and at all hours, than possibly can be at their doors. 
 Nor would it be more advantageous to the meaner sort for 
 cheapness, than convenient for the neighbouring gentry on 
 many accounts. 
 
 The new fair, during the Easter Holidays, and that on 
 the 24th of July, are as yet of little moment, though 
 capable in time of being highly improved. 
 
 So much for the Town. Nor is my pleasure diminished 
 by excursions out of it ; for nowhere has nature indulged 
 herself in grateful variety more than in this canton. The 
 Old Wells at half a miles distance, which formerly used 
 to be the meeting place in the forenoon, are not at present 
 so much in vogue ; the waters, they say, being found as 
 good within the village, and all diversions in greater 
 perfection. 
 
 The view from the fertile common in which they lie, is, 
 as from every elevation hereabouts, wonderfully delightful ; 
 especially so distinct a prospect of London at so great a 
 distance. 
 
 But the fortuitous cure of a leprous shepherd (an origin
 
 PIG HUNTING. 41 
 
 attributed to these in common with other wells) appears 
 even hence to be fabulous that they have never since had 
 a like effect ; though, otherwise these aluminous waters 
 are experienced to be beneficial in gently cleansing the 
 body, and in cooling and purifying the blood ; the salt 
 that is chemically made of them being famous all over 
 Europe. Yet, the cold bath lately erected on the bottom 
 of this pretended miracle, meets with as little encourage- 
 ment as the old story itself does with belief; it not being 
 the fashion in this as in some other countries to have all 
 salutiferous waters under the protection of a saint or the 
 protection of a parson. The hunting of a pig there every 
 Monday morning, when the only knack consists in catching 
 and holding him by the tail (the author of this letter 
 probably forgot that the greasing of his tail would render 
 " the only knack " a very difficult one), is infinitely more 
 becoming the boys who perform it, than the spectators 
 who behold them. 
 
 As for a cold bath, Ewell would by much be the 
 properest place, since, by reason of the spring, the water 
 may not only be changed for every new comer, but a basin 
 likewise made, adapted for swimming; which on such 
 occasions was the practice of the ancients. 
 But to shift our scenes. From the ring on the most 
 eminent part of the Downs, where I have often counted 
 above sixty coaches on a Sunday evening (thank God the 
 world is improved since then), and whence the painter 
 must take his view when he represents Epsom ; you may 
 distinctly see nine or ten counties, in whole or in part ; 
 besides the imperial city of London, very many consider- 
 able towns and an infinite number of country seats. You
 
 42 TOLAND ON ASHTEAD. 
 
 also see the two Royal Palaces of Windsor and Hampton 
 Court. Within a mile and a half is the place where the 
 Palace of Nonsuch lately stood a fit subject for those 
 who are inclined to moralise on the frailty, uncertainty and 
 vicissitude of all things. 
 
 The great number of gentlemen and ladies that take the 
 air every evening and morning on horseback, and that 
 range, either singly or in separate companies over every 
 hill and dale, is a most entertaining object. You can never 
 miss of it on the fine grounds of the new orbicular race, 
 which may well be termed a rural cirque. The four mile 
 course over the Warren House to Carshalton, a village 
 abounding in delicious springs, as much as we want them, 
 seldom likewise fails to afford me this pleasure ; having 
 all the way in my eye, like some cynosure, the tufted trees 
 of the old Roman fortifications, Burrow, properly situated 
 to crown the downs, and once, in my opinion, reigning 
 over all the groves, I except not that of Durdans famous 
 for love, or even Ashtead Mount, the mansion of the 
 Graces. 
 
 This I insert for your information, most noble Cheruscus ! 
 to whom, I am confident, Eudoxa will communicate this 
 letter, since you have wisely resolved (as you do every 
 thing), to purchase a summer retreat, cost what it will,' 
 somewhere in this neighbourhood. But whether you 
 gently step over my favourite meadows, planted on all 
 sides quite to Woodcote seat, in whose long grove I 
 oftenest converse with myself, or that you walk farther on 
 to Ashtead House and Park, the sweetest spot of ground 
 in our British world ; or ride still further to the enchanting 
 prospect of Box Hill, that temple of nature, nowhere else
 
 HUNTING AND RACING. 43 
 
 to be equalled for affording so surprising and magnificent 
 an idea both of heaven and earth; whether you lose 
 yourself in the aged yew groves of Mickleham, as the 
 River Moledos hides itself in the swallows beneath ; or that 
 you had rather try your patience in angling for trout about 
 Leatherhead ; whether you go to some cricket match, and 
 other prizes of contending villagers, or choose to breathe 
 your horse at a race, or to follow a pack of hounds in the 
 proper season ; whether, I say, you delight in any or every 
 one of these, Epsom is the place you must like above all 
 others. 
 
 I, that love the country entirely, and to partake in some 
 measure of most diversions (except gaming), have fixed 
 my residence here, where I continue the whole summer, 
 and frequently withdraw in winter. 
 
 Nor are these my only inducements, for as I prefer 
 retirement to solitude and so would have it in my power 
 to be alone or in company at pleasure, I could be nowhere 
 better fitted. Besides, every body meeting his acquaint- 
 ance on the Bowling Greens, in the Coffee Houses, or on 
 the Downs ; and few visiting others at their houses, unless 
 particularly invited ; or where friendship has made all 
 things common. Tis otherwise amongst themselves with 
 chance lodgers who come purely for diversion. 
 
 In two or three hours time I can be at London, when- 
 ever I will at my ease ; and if I have no business in Town, 
 I can receive all the public news as well, and almost as 
 soon at Epsom ; several stage coaches going and re- 
 turning every day with town and country waggons, more 
 than once a week, not to mention the ordinary post. 
 
 There are several very good seats in and about Epsom.
 
 44 MB. J. LEVIC'S SEA.T. 
 
 That of my Lord Guilford, called Durdans, at the ex- 
 tremity of the village, was built by the Earl of Barclay, 
 out of the materials of Nonsuch, a royal palace in this 
 neighbourhood built by Henry VIIL, and given by King 
 Charles II. to the Duchess of Cleveland, who pulled it 
 down and sold the materials. This house of Durdans is 
 built a la moderne of freestone ; the front to the garden 
 and that to the Downs is very noble ; the apartments 
 within are also very regular, and in the garden is the 
 charmingest grove imaginable, and famous for the doings 
 of Lord Grey, which you have read of. My Lord Balti- 
 more's gardens are also fine; the house is old, but the 
 chapel is the neatest little thing in the world. Mr. Wards 
 on Clay Hill (Sir John Wards, now belonging to J. Levic, 
 Esq., see description in gentlemen's seats), is a delicious 
 palace. Sir James Bateman hath also a delicate seat at 
 some miles distance : but what charmed me most of 
 anything hereabouts is the river of Carshalton which 
 environs Sir William Scawen's garden in a square, and is 
 full of fish, and makes a pretty cascade in going out. 
 
 Within a mile of Epsom is Aysted, belonging to Mr. 
 Fielding, brother to the Earl of Denbigh, which, for its 
 situation, park and gardens, is inferior to nothing of its 
 bigness that I have seen in England." 
 
 We here end Mr. John Toland's Epistle to Eudoxa, 
 written nearly one hundred and thirty-six years ago, 
 which of itself would place its writer on a very high niche 
 in the temple of fame, had he not by other victories over 
 the commonplace, proved himself one of the most graphic 
 writers of his own age, and fully equal to any in ours, for 
 vigour of style as well as correctness of letter painting.
 
 EPSOM CHURCHES. 
 
 45 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 " We all like forest trees do stand, 
 And some are doomed to fall ; 
 The axe must smite at God's command 
 And soon shall smite us all." 
 
 PS M 
 
 Parish Church, 
 it is true, forms 
 the wood-cut in 
 the commence- 
 ment of this 
 chapter, but 
 when we treat 
 of the Chur- 
 ches of Epsom 
 and their Mon- 
 uments, we 
 mean to men- 
 tion those of 
 all denomina- 
 tions of Bible 
 
 Christians reminded of the traveller's story who stated that 
 two friends once stood beneath the branches of a tree, one 
 on either side. The leaves of this tree were green on the
 
 46 EPSOM CHURCHES. 
 
 upper surface, and silvery-white beneath. The wind blew 
 so, that on one side the upper, on the other the under 
 portion was seen. One of the friends, therefore, contended 
 they were white"} the other green ; and it was only when a 
 third party explained the cause of their mistakes their 
 different points of view that the discussion ceased. 
 
 The Living of Epsom belonged as well as the Manor to 
 the Abbacy of Chertsey in ancient times. This living was 
 appropriated fully in King Edward II. reign, about A.D. 
 1320, though the sanction of the Pope was obtained for 
 this measure A.D. 1276, in the third year of the reign of 
 King Edward I. The first Rector was Abbot Rutherwyke, 
 who, in 1331, settled an endowment on his Vicar. The 
 rectory has since then been in the possession of the Lords 
 of the Manor. It now belongs to the family of Speer. 
 
 The Registers, which have been accurately kept, com- 
 mence their entries in 1695, the reign of the House of 
 Orange. The vicars since the commencement of this 
 century have been Jonathan Boucher, A.M., Fleetwood 
 Parkhurst, and Benjamin Bradney Bockett, M.A., who 
 was instituted in September 1839. 
 
 In Doomsday- Book, we have mention of two churches, 
 and it is mentioned that the Bishop Pontisarra granted, 
 in A.D. 1285, all oblations arising from the vicarage for 
 five years, to Roger de Grava, to cover his charges in 
 building a new chancel. This second church, however, 
 now exists only in history. 
 
 The Church dedicated to St. Martin, the tower of which 
 yet survives, and on the site of which the renewed struc- 
 ture stands, (itself called St. Martin's) was taken down 
 in the year 1824 (with the exception of the said tower,
 
 THE INTERIOR OF CHURCH. 47 
 
 which is still in existence, surmounted by an extraordinary 
 spire, covered with shingle over a wooden frame)' in con- 
 sequence of its ruinous condition, and a Gothic structure 
 raised instead during the wardenship of Henry Gosse, Esq., 
 and Mr. Thomas Butcher. It was endeavoured to preserve 
 the style of the old building as much as possible though 
 the area has been extended. A full description of the 
 architectural details is given in Brayley's History of 
 Surrey, which those, curious in such matters may consult. 
 
 The interior of the Church is decidedly handsome, and 
 strikes one as, perhaps, the most comfortable and suitable 
 building for public worship that could be contrived. 
 While holding 1,200 persons, the voice of the officiating 
 minister reaches every part. 
 
 The great East Window is well worthy of examination ; 
 it was executed in stained glass by Mr. Willement, 
 heraldic painter to King George IV., and proves that this 
 art is even now in a state of high perfection. The 
 parishioners are justly proud of this noble ornament of 
 their church. The compartment central has a full length 
 figure of the Saviour, after Leonardo de Vinci, that on the 
 right the armorial bearings of the King, and on the left 
 the arms of Bishop Tomline, then holding the see of 
 Winchester. 
 
 There is a very ancient octagonal Font near the entrance 
 door; and a very beautiful toned organ (by Walker), 
 which is done full justice to by Mr. J. Saville Stone, the 
 present organist, in aid of an effective choir of gentlemen 
 and ladies. 
 
 The present Churchwardens are Mr. C. J. Langlands, 
 and Mr. Thomas Whitburn, jun., whose efficient tenure of
 
 48 MONUMENTS. 
 
 their office is best proved by the fact that they have been 
 unanimously elected to serve, the one a second time, and 
 Mr. Langlands a fourth time. The clerk is Mr. William 
 Furniss and "Old Mortality" is represented by W. 
 Joliffe, who has been a resident in the Parish of Epsom 
 seventy-five years 
 
 The Monuments in this Church and the Graveyard 
 records, present many objects of intense interest. In the 
 Chancel are eight mural tablets. One to the memory of 
 Mrs. Jane Rowe is peculiarly beautiful ; on a ground of 
 grey marble, an urn lies wreathed, on a pedestal supported 
 by two exquisitely sculptured female figures, one bears 
 the Bible, and a cross, the page open has this lovely 
 promise : " The hope of the righteous shall be gladness." 
 In the hand of the other is a pelican, which is a happy con- 
 ception, if thus it is designed to place the crest of the 
 family of the silent dead as part of the tableau, instead of 
 the ostentatious position which is usually chosen. 
 
 Another is surmounted by a very characteristic bust, 
 and is sacred to the memory of the Rev. Jonathan 
 Boucher, M.A., nineteen years vicar of the parish; born 
 1738, died 1840. 
 
 The Rev. Jonathan Boucher, M.A., was born in Cum- 
 berland, March 12th, 1738, and at the age of sixteen he 
 went to America, and having entered the ministry he 
 became rector of a parish in Virginia. He then returned 
 to England, obtained episcopal ordination, and held various 
 cures in Maryland. He quitted America on the breaking 
 out of hostilities with the mother country in 1 775, and at 
 that time published the discourses which he had preached 
 under the head of "A view of the causes and consequences
 
 REV. JONATHAN BOUCHER. 49 
 
 of the American Revolution." He determinately continued 
 to pray for the King, much to the annoyance of the 
 Revolutionary party. His own words on the subject are 
 as follows : " Unless I am to forbear praying for the 
 King, I have been noticed that I am to pray no longer. 
 No intimation could be more distressing to me, but I do 
 not require a moments hesitation, distressing as the 
 dilemma is. Entertaining a respect for my ordination 
 vow, I am firm in my resolution, whilst I pray in public 
 at all, to conform to the unmutilated liturgy of my 
 church, and reverencing the injunctions of the Apostle 
 " I will pray for the King and all who are in authority 
 under him. As long as I live, Yea ! whilst I have my 
 being, I will, with Zadoc the priest, and Nathan the 
 prophet, proclaim God save the King." The above will 
 show how determined a mind was that of Jonathan 
 Boucher. The sculpture on his tomb is a faithful likeness 
 of such a man. He was elected F.S.A., an honorary 
 member of the Edinburgh Society of Antiquaries, and a 
 member of the Stirling Literary Society, while you will 
 find this honorable mention of him, after his decease, in 
 the Gentleman's Magazine for 1840 : " In recording the 
 death of a person eminent for learning, we announce a 
 loss which only impoverishes the public stock of learning, 
 and affects a merely circumscribed class. But, in record- 
 ing the death of a man whose benevolence and piety were 
 unceasingly employed in their best duties, we announce a 
 loss which can only be repaired by the exertions of those 
 who, profiting by Mr. Boucher's example, may imitate his 
 conduct." Mr. Boucher was presented to Epsom in 1784,
 
 50 MONUMENTS. 
 
 and held it until his death. Several works of merit 
 proceeded from his pen. 
 
 Flaxman's hand has been at work on these walls, 
 illustrating the sorrows of the family of John Henry 
 Warre, Esq., and his wife, in the removal of their parents 
 to another sphere. 
 
 And also the same artist has sculptured, to the memory 
 of John Braithwaite, Esq., a whole figure of a woman in 
 full relief, her right arm resting on a pillar, very pretty in 
 itself but spoiled by a perfectly unmeaning, I.H.S. sur- 
 mounted by the cross and encircled by a wreath of stars. 
 
 One of the prettiest monuments of the whole as well as 
 most interesting on account of the good man whose 
 memory it recalls, is one also by Flaxman A simple 
 tablet with an exquisitely sculptured whole length figure, 
 on either side : one, of a woman, her hands clasped and a 
 hood over her head, the other representing Hope, an 
 anchor, as usual, in her right hand. 
 The inscription I will give in full. 
 
 " Sacred to the memory of the Rev. John Parkhurst, M.A., 
 of this parish, and descended from the Parkhursts of Catesby 
 in Northamptonshire. His life was distinguished not by any 
 honours in the Church, but by deep and laborious researches into 
 the treasures of Divine learning ; the fruits of which are preserved 
 in two invaluable Lexicons, in which the original text of the 
 Old and New Testament is interpreted with extraordinary light and 
 truth. Reader ! if thou art thankful to God that such a man liyed, 
 pray for the Christian world that neither the pride of false learning, 
 nor the growth of unbelief may so far prevail, as to render his 
 pious labours in any degree ineffectual. He lived in Christian 
 Charity, and departed in faith and hope on the 21st day of 
 February, MDCCXCVII, in the 69th year of his age.
 
 MONUMENTS. 51 
 
 There is a production of Chantreys which is well done, 
 but not pleasing, of a female figure, with a child, looking 
 half strangled, in her arms, and she herself looks as if she 
 laterally had a large slice taken from her body. This 
 monument is in memory of Susan wife of John Ashley 
 Warre, Esq., and his infant child. 
 
 A pretty idea, badly executed, of a lily snapped from its 
 stem, is attached to the monument of Miss Eleanor 
 Belfield, aged fifteen. It is against the east side of the 
 nave, to the south of the chancel. It reminds me however 
 of that beautiful little story when a gentleman's gardener 
 had lost his only child, and wept sore till his heart was 
 ready to burst, peace seemed denied him, until his master 
 determined to try and heal his torn heart. He marked 
 him tending a beautiful flower with jealous care, watching 
 its unfolding beauties, and glorying in its promised charms. 
 Secretly he plucked it from its stem, and placed it in a 
 vase on his breakfast board. The gardener missed it, and 
 broke out into impatience. His kind master led him to 
 the table and pointed to the gathered floweret and said, 
 " It was required for thy master's use." The man under- 
 stood the emblem, and from the broken flower learned 
 submission to His Heavenly Master's will. If a mourner 
 passes here let him learn too. 
 
 Adjoining this is a tablet bearing this inscription 
 
 " Near this place are deposited the remains of William Haygarth, 
 Esquire, A.M., eldest son of John Haygarth, M.D., and formerly 
 of Trinity College, Cambridge, who, deeply skilled in the learning 
 and antiquities of Greece and Italy, and adorned hy all their arts, 
 but still more highly distinguished by the genuine simplicity and 
 solid worth of his moral character, terminated a life devoted to 
 literature, and to every domestic and social virtue, by a death of 
 
 2
 
 52 MONUMENTS. 
 
 piety and resignation, on the 26th Septemher, 1826, aged 41 
 years. His sorrowing widow inscribes to his memory this record 
 of gratitude and affection." 
 
 There is a fine old monument, erected to the memory of 
 Richard Evelyn, Esq., of Woodcote, where the family of 
 the Evelyns long resided and where the author of Sylva 
 often visited. In the account of Woodcote which we give, 
 there is a mention made of a letter from Evelyn (John) 
 after he followed the remains of a friend to Epsom Church- 
 yard. As everything connected with this very popular 
 writer will possess an interest, we will record the Epitaph 
 of his brother. It is as follows : 
 
 M.S. 
 
 " Juxta hie sita sunt ossa Richardi Evelyn Armigeri filii tertii 
 Rich Evelyn de Wooten, in comitat Surioe Armigr et Eleanor 
 uxoris ejus, Filioj Johan Stanfield, de Lewes, in Com Southsexios, 
 Armig Duxit in uxorem Elizabethan! filiam primo genit Georgii 
 Mynne de Woodcot in Ebisham in Com Surr Anng et Annoe 
 uxoris ejus, filioe Rob u - Parkhurst, de Pirford in Com Surr, Milit. 
 Muniflce primum Dotatam Ampliori de in Hereditate Auctam. 
 Quatuon suis filiis Mynne, Georgio, Richardo et Edwardo cunabulis 
 Ademptis Annam filiam unicam reliquit superstitem nuptam 
 Gulielmo Mountagu, e Familia Monteacutorum. Calculo diu 
 Laboraverat et accutissimis per biennui illius doloribus attritus. 
 Obiit 7 Die Martii, Anno setatis Suae 48etsalutis Nostrae 1669 
 Msesta Conjux Marito Optimo Posuit." 
 
 In the north aisle there is a tablet of dark marble, 
 bearing the arms of Coke and Berkeley, with a fine Latin 
 inscription as follows : 
 
 " Hie deponuntur exuviae Roberti Coke, equitis aurati, cum 
 lectissima conjuge Theophila. Hie Dom Edwardi Coke judicis 
 juris consultissimi hreres, vir prudens et integerrimus, Anglice 
 leges quas pater commentariis, vita sui illustravit. Nee loetis 
 inflatus, nee fractus adversis, pius in Deum, largus in paupercs,
 
 MONUMENTS. 53 
 
 bonus in omnes. Ilia ex antiqua familia <le Berkeley, soror unica 
 
 Georgii, Baronis Berkeley, generis splendorem virtutibus, sexum 
 
 eruditione seipsam patientia superavit. Quorum summoe felicitate 
 
 nil defuit praeter prolem magno sane patriae detrimento cum tan- 
 
 tarum virtutum baerede sit destituta ; uterque sibi, neuter suis, 
 
 satis visit. Ilia obiit anno D'ni MDCXLIII oetatis XLVII die Aprilis 
 
 xxn. Ille obiit ano D'ni MDCLIII oetatis LXVII die Julii xix. 
 
 Georgius Berkeley moestissimus nepos avunculis meritissimus 
 
 paterni in eum aifectus oemylis, tarn gratitudinis suac cxprimendoe 
 
 quam eorum perpetuandse memoriBe, hoc monumentum posuit. 
 
 There is a monument of considerable interest and some 
 
 antiquity, which is generally overlooked by strangers and 
 
 has received no mention in any chronicle which we have 
 
 met. It is situated on the wall of the staircase leading to 
 
 the north gallery. The sculpture is most elaborate, and 
 
 symetrical. This monument is sacred to the memory 
 
 of Mrs. Elizabeth Evelyn, of Woodcote, and has the 
 
 following inscription : 
 
 M.S. 
 
 Elizabethse Evelyn, Relictae Ricbardi Evelyn. 
 DC Woodcott Armigeri, Ex stemmati Mynniauo. 
 Oriundae faeminae tarn pietate quam hospitalitate 
 Celeberima. De Ebbisham et de Horton 
 Domina? Consanguineae mcritissimse 
 Carolus Calvert Baro de Baltimore posuit, 
 Obiit Anno Cbristi MDCLXXXVI. 
 
 -ZEtatis LXIII. Mensis Jan. xxtx. 
 
 Near the entrance to the Vestry is a white marble slab, 
 with an inscription detailing at considerable length, the 
 record of the benefactions of Elizabeth Culling, widow of 
 William Culling, Esq., who died on the 30th June, 1790. 
 This is certainly a very practical mode of perpetuating the 
 memory of the dead ; and we trust it may have been the
 
 54 TOMBS AND MONUMENTS. 
 
 lot of her gifts, to make " the blessing of him that was 
 ready to perish to come upon her, and to cause the widow's 
 heart to sing for joy." 
 
 The churchyard is capable of great improvement, lies 
 well amidst surrounding groves, and were a little care and 
 taste displayed, would rarely be exceeded as a very pretty 
 cemetry, but alas ! there is not a churchyard in the king- 
 dom worse kept and tended. There is little of interest in 
 the way of the antique or the curious here. 
 
 Among the memorials of the silent dead, however, is a 
 quaint and merry description which would make even a 
 ghost smile, did he come suddenly upon it, it is as follows. 
 
 " Here lieth the carcase 
 
 Of honest Charles Parkhurst 
 
 Who ne'er could dance or sing, 
 
 But always was true to 
 
 His Sovereign Lord the King 
 
 Charles the First." 
 
 Oh. Dec. xx, MDCCIV. oetat. LXXXVI. 
 There is a handsome tomb surrounded by a massive 
 railing, on the sides of which are inserted shields of pure 
 white marble. This is the family vault of the Northey 
 family; here are placed the remains, as the inscriptions 
 detail, of Sir Edward Northey, Attorney General of 
 England, in the reigns of William the Third, Queen Anne 
 and George the First. Also of his son Edward, who died, 
 A.D. 1738, and resided at Woodcote Green; which has 
 at times been honoured by the visits of various members 
 of the Royal Family. " Sic transit gloria mundi." 
 
 There is a very handsome tomb built of white marble 
 throughout, a material which is very unusual in the build- 
 ing of solid square tomb-heads, in open ground. This
 
 MABRIAGES. 55 
 
 monument keeps in a good state of preservation, and is 
 sacred to the memory of Martin Wright, Esq., who died 
 A.D. 1783, aged fifty-seven. We know not of any peculiar 
 interest attached to his name. 
 
 Close by, lie the remains of Mary Elizabeth, wife of 
 Rev. Jonathan Boucher, who is buried with her own 
 relatives. She died A.D. 1788, aged fifty-one. 
 
 Alas ! what conclusion must we come to, but that here 
 is set forth the common lot of man ? The proud and the 
 haughty, as well as the simple and the poor lie com- 
 mingled. Once their hearts beat high, and their limbs 
 elastic trod with high tread, or busily reared monuments 
 that have survived them now they are busy crumbling 
 into dust. And thus it is with grandeur, thus it is with 
 beauty ; a little while, and then of all the loveliness and 
 grace, with which perhaps some have made such wild- 
 work in the world, there will remain nothing more savoury, 
 than there did of the lost beauty of Woodstock, whose 
 epitaph ran thus 
 
 " Hie jacet in tumba Roea Munda 
 
 Non redolet, sed olet quoe redolere solet." 
 
 In the Parish Church, Baptism is freely administered on 
 the second Sunday of the month, and the Lord's Supper 
 on the first Sunday and the usual festivals. Marriages are 
 celebrated on all days between the hours of eight and 
 twelve o'clock. 
 
 As doubtless is the case in almost every parish, there 
 are many eurious stories told of bewildered bridegrooms 
 and uncertain brides, for most of which, I suppose we 
 generally refer you to the clerk ; as for burial incidents, to 
 " Old Mortality " ; by the way, the latters father, to whose
 
 56 FUNNY FACTS. 
 
 patrimony of woe he succeded, died over ninety years of 
 age, having deposited the bodies of the dead for seventy 
 years, to their entire satisfaction. 
 
 Sometimes the marriage is hy licence, sometimes by 
 banns. The betrothed pair generally come together to 
 " put in " their important challenges to any man that 
 knows anything against the matter to tell it forth. 
 
 Such a case as the following has positively happened. 
 
 A happy pair arrived at Mr. house ; and the man 
 
 having put the fee into the woman's hand, drew softly 
 behind her, blushing like a peony, telling her to acquaint 
 the functionary with the particulars. Without hesitation 
 she gave her own name, looking unutterable innocence, 
 when she was asked if she was a Spinster ? " She should 
 think she was." What is the gentleman's name ? (at 
 weddings, the gentle reader must know all are gentlemen 
 and ladies'). The lady does not know it, and has to apply 
 to him for the necessary information, perhaps, because she 
 never thought of calling him anything but Bill or Jack, or 
 perhaps, because their acquaintance was very, very short. 
 
 I heard once of a case in which two strangers were seen 
 to accost one another in the street, and five minutes after- 
 wards they came to " put up their banns." On being asked 
 the gentleman's name, the lady frankly acknowledged that 
 as she had only just met him she really did not know 
 it, but they liked one another. 
 
 A race for a wedding lately took place in which, as in 
 passing the clock, the parties found they were .very close 
 to time the bride and bridesmaids girded their zones 
 after the fashion of the huntress Diana, and literally " ran 
 for it" nearly a mile, and just arrived breathless and
 
 ALMSHOUSES. 57 
 
 terrified, in bare time for the ceremony to commence. 
 One case occurred in which the bridegroom of yesterday, 
 pale and sad, came to the clerk to offer double fees to get 
 unmarried again. 
 
 A hundred such cases could be cited, to show that the 
 marriage road is not always smooth, and to prove the 
 adage "marry in haste and repent at leisure," is not 
 always a mere Proverb, but an inference supported from the 
 treasured chronicles of a parish clerks experience. This 
 functionary is himself generally one of the most Protean 
 characters in the parish, he gives away brides by the dozen, 
 and becomes imaginary god-father to scores of infants. 
 If there happened to be suits in various counties, he should 
 appear in them all as witness to everything, signatures and 
 John (his -f mark) Browns in abundance. Indeed it is won- 
 derful how great a number of marks appear, instead of 
 signatures, in this comparatively enlightened age, despite 
 the efforts of Lord John Russell and the Hon. Wm. Cooper. 
 
 We have said the registers of the parish have been 
 carefully kept since the year 1695 ; the necessary enquiries 
 concerning this fact, have drawn forth these incidents. 
 
 There is a fine chime of Bells in the old Tower, which 
 on festival occasions are made ring forth their merry peal. 
 On some of these there are curious inscriptions. 
 
 The Almhouses, which were built by Mr John Living- 
 stone, on half an acre of land given by the parish, were 
 situated in East Street, opposite Mr. Morse's nursery 
 grounds, and served for the shelter of twelve poor widows. 
 They were placed under the direction and control of the 
 Vicar for the time being, the Church-wardens and the 
 Overseers of the poor ; but now alas ! they are no more.
 
 58 
 
 CHRIST CHTTRCH. 
 
 Having become uninhabitable, they were lately pulled 
 down, and although the Treasury is open for offerings 
 toward their re-erection, a sufficient response has not been 
 given ; and therefore they are still unrestored. It surely 
 becomes this age when far greater wealth abounds, to be 
 at least as benevolent as a less wealthy epoch, when Epsom 
 readily found means to build what now claims to be 
 restored. 
 
 CHRIST CHUKCH. 
 
 Christ Church, which is used as a Chapel of Ease to the 
 Parish church, and was erected in 1843, after designs by 
 William Mclntosh Brooks, Esq., architect, of London, is a 
 rather pretty structure, intended for the convenience of the 
 working classes of its vicinity, whose abodes have rapidly 
 sprung up in the locality of the common.
 
 CHKIST CHUKCH. 59 
 
 It being felt that an increase of accommodation was 
 necessary, the Vicar gained permission of the Bishop for 
 such an erection, and having collected the requisite funds 
 by contributions from his friends and richer parishioners, 
 was happily enabled to obtain sufficient for the purpose. 
 This Church is well filled by an attentive congregation in 
 the morning and afternoon at three o'clock, and the 
 Sacrament of the Lord's Supper is duly administered. 
 
 A small beginning has been obtained towards the en- 
 dowment; the Vicar has to contribute the remainder of 
 the maintenance of this ministry. It is much to be wished 
 that this burden might be lightened by the completion of 
 the fund as originally proposed. 
 
 The site was freely given by J. I. Briscoe, Esq., the 
 Lord of the Manor. Towards the subscription of the 
 building fund a sum of 300/. was given by the Church 
 Building and the Diocesan Church Building Societies, on 
 condition of the Church being wholly free to the poor. Her 
 Majesty Queen Adelaide, the Bishop of Winchester, the 
 Earl of Egmont, Mrs. Pugh, the Vicar, Sir Gilbert Heath- 
 cote, H. Sperling Esq., of Norbury Park, W. J. Denison, 
 Esq., M.P., and John Trotter, Esq., M.P., the late mem- 
 bers for Surrey, and others, contributed to the building 
 or endowment funds. All the sittings are free and un- 
 appropriated, and the patronage is vested in the Incumbent 
 of Epsom. 
 
 The Parish of Epsom is divided into districts, which are 
 now regularly visited, once a fortnight, as regards the 
 working classes, by the ladies of the Epsom District 
 Visiting Society. This admirable institution is already 
 showing the fruit of its labours.
 
 60 DK. WATTS. 
 
 Several other Institutions and Clothing Clubs in full 
 working order tend much to ameliorate both the temporal, 
 and under God, the spiritual welfare of the poorer classes. 
 
 There are National Schools supported by voluntary 
 subscriptions, and an Infant School on Clay Hill, founded 
 by Miss Trotter. 
 
 The "Old Chapel" in Church Street is now in the 
 occupation of the Independents. The minister is the Rev. 
 Thomas Lee. This building is a neat structure in the 
 centre of a cemetery sacred to the dead. 
 
 It is stated that the good old Doctor Watts, whose name 
 causes a thrill of pleasure in the hearts of Christians of all 
 communions, as they recall the sweet strains in which he 
 has called them to the praise of the Most High, occasionally 
 was accustomed to preach here, while on a visit to a friend 
 at Epsom. It is more than probable that his harp gained 
 many a precious tone from the witchery of the Creator's 
 works among Epsom groves and woodlands. And per- 
 chance many a song of this sweet modern psalmist was 
 composed amid our walks and glades, which has served to 
 cheer the pilgrim's way to a happier land. 
 
 There is a School House attached, connected with the 
 British and Foreign School Society. 
 
 The Rev. Doctor Harris was for some time minister of 
 this Chapel. His name will be more familiar when we 
 speak of him as the author of " Mammon," a book which 
 attained immense circulation. The mind that conceived 
 that remarkable production was one which dwelt very 
 closely with heavenly things ; and though the other and 
 larger works which fell from his pen were not equally 
 successful, Epsom and the Independent connection are 
 justly proud of reckoning Doctor Harris among their 
 distinguished literary men.
 
 PLACES OF WORSHIP. 61 
 
 There is another Chapel off High Street occupied by 
 the Wesleyan Methodists, a small building of red brick, 
 which holds about 120 persons. The services are con- 
 ducted by the ministers and lay preachers of the Croydon 
 circuit, of which Epsom forms a part. The pulpit is also 
 occasionally supplied by students from the Wesleyan 
 College, Richmond. The services are held on Sunday 
 and Tuesday evenings at the usual hours. In connection 
 with this Chapel is a Sabbath School, whose average 
 attendance is seventy. 
 
 A third Chapel exists in East Street whose connection 
 profess pure Calvanistic doctrines. Rev. Mr. Irons, of 
 London, used occasionally to preach here. 
 
 And yet a fourth a wooden structure for the Congre- 
 gationalists, has been erected on Church Parade, whose 
 symbol is " Temporary Protestant Evangelical Chapel ;" 
 Minister, Rev. William Elliott. There is also a Sunday 
 School connected to this place of worship in which are 
 instructed upwards of seventy children. 
 
 We only hope that this phalanx, varied as is its uniform, 
 will present a united front to the great enemy of souls, 
 and eventually meet in that happy land where there is but 
 " one flock and one shepherd, Jesus Christ the Lord." 
 
 The Union Workhouse, situate in the Dorking Road, is 
 a building in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and 
 presents an appearance rather superior to most buildings 
 of this class. It has a large Board Room where the 
 Guardians of the Poor meet every Wednesday for the 
 transaction of business. 
 
 The Grounds are closely cultivated by the hands of the 
 paupers themselves, and present a very neat and rich
 
 62 THE UNION WOEKHOU8E. 
 
 appearance when clothed with crops of various kinds 
 suitable to the consumption of the House. At the rear 
 there is a garden, in which is a Cottage Sanitarium, to which 
 persons suffering from infectious disease are immediately 
 removed, thus preventing the spread of infection among 
 the other inmates an example which it will be well to 
 follow in other unions. There is a very plain but well- 
 constructed Chapel where service is regularly performed 
 by the Rev. Harrington Taylor, chaplain. The Master, Mr. 
 Nicholas Cuming, and the Matron, Mrs. Cuming, seem 
 most efficient. 
 
 A visit to the House would prove most interesting on 
 account of the perfection of the arrangements and the 
 care with which their details are worked out. Cleanliness 
 and order pervade the whole ; and the kindliness of the 
 officers is fully proved by the evident cheerfulness and 
 contentment of the inmates. Useful trades are taught; 
 the schools under good management, and the infants 
 comfort promoted. Everything is done, in fact, to lighten 
 the sorrows of those forlorn ones, as well as to render 
 them useful members of the community. The drainage 
 has been rendered quite complete under the directions of 
 the Local Board of Health.
 
 THE MEDICAL BENEVOLENT COLLEGE. 
 
 63 
 
 ROYAL MEDICAL BENEVOLENT COLLEGE. 
 
 PATRON : HEB MAJESTY THE QUEEN. 
 
 HIS is an Insti- 
 tution founded 
 by the Medical 
 Profession as 
 an asylum for 
 those of their 
 brethren, who 
 now unhappily 
 from ill-health, 
 want of profes- 
 sional success, 
 or other ad- 
 verse circumstances, have fallen into poverty; and for 
 widows of medical men requiring such assistance ; pen- 
 sion, 15/ per annum. There is connected a School or 
 College, part gratuitous for the orphans of medical men ; 
 general charge, 40. for board and education. This In- 
 stitution was opened on 25th of June, 1855, by H.R.H. 
 the Prince Consort, and H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and 
 the Chapel was opened by the Bishop of Winchester, 1857. 
 The proposed design is to accommodate one hundred 
 pensioners, only twenty at this date have been admitted. 
 The School is so far completed as to admit 150 boys the 
 design is for 200 the sons of qualified medical men ; forty 
 of whom, the Foundation Scholars, will be maintained, 
 clothed, and educated, at the expense of the institution.
 
 64 
 
 THE MEDICAL BENEVOLENT COLLEGE. 
 
 Donors of ten guineas are life governors ; and sub- 
 scribers of one guinea annually, governors. 
 
 The Members of the Council are as follows : 
 
 James Bird, Esq., M.D. 
 
 John Birkett, Esq. 
 
 Henry Bleukarne, Esq. 
 
 William Carr, Esq. 
 
 Wm. Cholmely, Esq., M,D. 
 
 Win. D. Chowne, Esq., M.D. 
 
 T.B. Curling, Esq., F.R.S. 
 
 Geo. Thos. Dale, Esq. 
 
 Richard D. Edgcumbe, Esq. 
 
 George Fincham, Esq. 
 
 John F. France, Esq. 
 
 Henry Hancock, Esq, 
 
 Edward Headland, Esq. 
 
 Francis Hird, Esq. 
 
 Charles Hogg, Esq., L.R.C.P.E. 
 
 THE PRESIDENT. 
 THE TREASURER. 
 
 George C. Johnson, Esq., L.R.C.P.E. 
 
 John Henry Lance, Esq. 
 
 Charles F. J. Lord, Esq. 
 
 Major Moore, F.R.8., F.8.A. 
 
 Sir Thomas Phillips 
 
 Rev. George Pockock, L.L.B. 
 
 Richard Quain, Esq., F.R S. 
 
 Edward Ray, Esq. 
 
 G. M. Robinson, Esq. 
 
 John Sirus Smith, Esq., 
 
 J. G. Sparke, Esq., M.D. 
 
 Henry Sterry, Esq. 
 
 T. Harrigton Tuke, Esq., M.D. 
 
 Joseph Ward, Esq. (Epsom) 
 
 Francis Webb, Esq. 
 
 Secretary -.ROBERT FREEMAN, ESQ. 
 
 The Head Master of the School Department is Rev. R. Thornton, D.D., late 
 Fellow and Lecturer of St. John's College, Oxford. 
 
 The Head Master of the Lower School is Rev. F. R. Pentreath, B.A., Scholar 
 of Worcester College, Oxford. 
 
 This Institution when completed will form a very 
 imposing addition to the neighbourhood of Epsom, its 
 architectural design being of a very high order. It has 
 been built within the bounds of Epsom Parish, and is a 
 conspicuous object from every point around; an honour 
 to its founders, and worthy of the very largest support. 
 
 With this we close our account of the Churches and 
 Charitable Institutions of Epsom. The teaching of the 
 one is best exemplified in the fruits the others yield. If 
 " pure religion and undefiled before God and the Father 
 be this, to visit the fatherless and the widow in their 
 affliction," happy are we to have such proofs around of 
 Christian charity and love.
 
 THE WELLS. 65 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 " Great marvelous and strange ! 
 
 The Rich forget their gout, 
 
 The Poor their colic, 
 
 The Lame leap as the Roe ! 
 
 Pitch physic to the dogs, -we'll none of it again ! 
 
 'Tis simply now, water within 
 
 "Water without and it is done ! " 
 
 Soliloquy at a Medicinal Spring. 
 
 HAT is a Hand-book without its grand point 
 of attraction? and what is a Hand-book 
 of Epsom without an account of its Wells 
 its Miraculous Springs ? It will certainly be 
 allowed that the primary cause of Epsom's 
 popularity, in the olden time, was the dis- 
 covery of its Mineral Waters. 
 
 But our object is not to puff our Wells, 
 and thus to seek a fount of future great- 
 ness telling how the " Dame Burden" of 
 the present time got entirely cured of her 
 paralysis, or Gaffer Tomkins of his red nose, 
 or Lawyer Cheatum of his tendency to lie 
 behind men's backs to promote his lawsuits, 
 and set his dear clients by the ears, or do several things 
 which are perfectly lawful for a Lawyer. Dame Durden
 
 66 EPSOM WELLS. 
 
 may have lost her ailments, because they ceased to gain 
 the sympathy of the pale curate Gaffer became rather 
 more pale faced probably because he had nothing but water 
 to drink, and Lawyer Cheatum foreswore lies and cheating 
 perhaps because first nobody would now believe him, or 
 secondly nobody employ him. 
 
 Our object is to state what Epsom Wells were to ask 
 why they are not now what they were then and to 
 examine what they are now ? 
 
 We would feel greatly interested indeed in the Wells 
 becoming again popular, through a certain honest pride, 
 which the inhabitants of any town would feel in its taking 
 a rank in the van, and to see that progress arising from a 
 source of influence existing in itself and peculiarly its 
 own. But our chief reason for mention of the waters of 
 Epsom is to promote enquiry, as to what we believe to be 
 a fact, that they have still a healing power, being both of 
 an abstersive and pugatory, as well as tonic nature. If 
 ours be a puff, it is for a fact we believe in, and for a town 
 whose neighbourhood, at least, we admire. And if this be 
 a puff, it seems only according to a natural instinct of 
 Englishmen, to do the world good by pointing to their 
 nation as perfect, and asking it to adopt England's laws 
 and its beneficial institutions. 
 
 It may be something like the story we heard of an 
 enthusiastic as well as keen agent of Insurance, who thus 
 mingled common sense and business together. As an 
 English Nobleman of daring and eccentric habits, was 
 travelling through the Pyrenees, he was observed by an 
 Insurance agent (out on his holiday) climbing a high 
 mountain peak, where many persons had already broken
 
 EPSOM WELLS. 67 
 
 their necks. He hastened after the climber and reached 
 him just as he was resting for a little, before attempting 
 the most perilous part of the ascent. You cannot deny Sir, 
 the Agent exclaimed, that in what you are about to do 
 you are running the greatest risk ; and under such circum- 
 stances, it becomes most desirable to have ones life 
 
 insured. I am Agent to the Insurance Company, 
 
 which insures in cases of accidental or sudden death. 
 I have paper, pen, ink, and blank cheques with me ; If 
 you will be so good as to draw for the money and sign the 
 policy, you will do well for your family. The enterpriz- 
 ing traveller saw the reasonableness of the proposal and 
 signed his name without further question. 
 
 Whether he broke his neck or came down safely, our 
 informant does not say. 
 
 But if there seem interest, in an inhabitant of Epsom 
 trying to lure to its fine air ; is there not also reason in 
 his proposal that a fresh trial be given to its waters? 
 They certainly will be found to have a certain power, a 
 remarkable effect ; and if so, why stuff down Physic and 
 Apothecaries stuff in quantities, and refuse to try our 
 leading Doctor Nature's prescriptions ! She has grad- 
 uated in a school that few can attain. She has studied 
 with the most accurate diagnostics the peculiarities of 
 the human frame, and best knows, " how fearfully and 
 wonderfully we are made ; " and She can supply healing 
 powers with the most unerring hand : while man and his 
 uncertain knowledge belong but to a pigmy world. 
 
 We found it no easy task to trace out, for certain, the 
 discoverer of the healing qualities of Epsom Wells. The 
 same difficulty will be found as regards all the mineral 
 
 F 2
 
 68 EPSOM WELLS. 
 
 springs of repute in the world. And this arises, not from 
 there being no story regarding their discovery, but from 
 there being a perfect babel of lies respecting each from 
 which it is difficult to draw the foundation truth. 
 
 It is more than probable, that in most cases the real 
 discoverer has kept his incognito. Many benefactors of 
 mankind have a delicacy in declaring themselves, lest 
 they should be overwhelmed by the caresses of an adoring 
 public. Alas ! did they know life, they would dread no 
 such outpourings of gratitude. 
 
 They are sometimes like those Authors, whose retiring 
 character gets the praise of their names being withheld 
 from the public. If the book be a success however, will 
 the name be on the second edition I wonder ? No ! it is 
 false pride and a fear of criticism that keeps back authors 
 names too frequently. The Author who knows his own 
 powers, and properly estimates those of idle critics, who 
 can criticise but can't write, and who are content to go 
 down to their graves " rotten boughs," useless to society, 
 and burdensome to themselves, will generally be found, 
 if a contemptuous, at least an honest and fearless man. 
 
 In the case of Epsom Wells, I believe however, that the 
 gentleman who discovered the Wells was both a critic, 
 and for a good reason withheld his open declarations on the 
 matter of the waters. 
 
 The reason the discoverer of the Mineral Springs did 
 not declare himself, was because he could not speak. His 
 father and grandfather were both unable to speak ; and 
 though of a very " old family " his ancestors were through 
 all generations dumb, with the exception of one, who very 
 long ago opened his mouth under severe provocation, and 
 then relapsed into silence, and spoke no more.
 
 EPSOM WELLS. 
 
 The property of " the Wells " was discovered by a 
 donkey, and certainly if the sick -will not profit by his 
 discovery he seems to have been but an "Ass for his 
 pains." 
 
 A donkey discovered the Springs qualities in 1618, 
 when his master, Henry Wicker, drove him with other 
 denizens of the farm yard to drink. He first, ran to the 
 waters, turned up his nose and retired, the cows followed 
 and refused to drink, at which Wicker " did amaze " as 
 the old story expresses itself. .An enquiry was set on foot 
 and the water was found to be of an aluminous character. 
 It was afterwards proved, as it is now readily found, of a 
 purgative nature. 
 
 Toland states that " since it hath been inwardly taken, 
 diseases have met with their cure." Fuller states that 
 " it runs through some veins of Alum and was, at first 
 used for the healing of sores" and that simple wounds 
 have been perfectly, soundly and suddenly cured, by the 
 application of this water, it being of an abstersive quality." 
 Aubrey says that he tried several experiments with it in 
 1654, and that a gallon yielded a sediment of a substance 
 like snow flakes. There are indeed lots of books and 
 treaties in which there is mention of the powers of the 
 Epsom Spa. 
 
 About the year 1619, the place was visited by some 
 Physicians, who analysed the water and reported it to 
 partake largely of a calcareous nitre or soluble bitter 
 cathartic salt. 
 
 I used it myself lately, with perfect effect in a case 
 which might otherwise have been treated probably at the 
 expense of a pretty fee, and a slight bill for medicines.
 
 70 EPSOM WELLS. 
 
 I should have received most likely the usual stereotyped 
 directions " keep the feet warm, the head cool, the mind 
 quiet ; these pills are to be taken every two hours, to the 
 almost utter ignoring of sleep, and this draught on waking 
 from a slumber which could only be a very doubtful one 
 under the two hour regime in the morning, and then 
 through the day this cooling medicine may be given, 
 well shaken every other hour." I preferred trying the 
 Wells. 
 
 The state of the patient on beginning was this spirits 
 down to zero blood up to boiling heat ; he felt in for a 
 fever or ague, with a decided touch of liver, pains rioted 
 through every limb, stomach seriously out of order. A 
 bad case certainly, but he drank the waters for six morn- 
 ings at eight o'clock fasting, and got perfectly rid of 
 fever, liver complaint and pains, while the stomach re- 
 bellion was summarily quelled. 
 
 Commend me to the Wells I am a wiser and better 
 man since, and fully ready to join in the sololoquy at the 
 head of the chapter. 
 
 Now I deem Doctors necessary evils, yet necessary men. 
 Why will they however refuse to admit nature into their 
 councils, and their labours would be more Godlike ? Why 
 should not they and nature go into partnership together, 
 instead of tearing out each others eyes, at opposite sides 
 of the system. Death would not then get the vast practice 
 he does, through Nature and the Doctors quarrelling, 
 instead of minding their business together. 
 
 A word of analogy two tradesmen bitterly opposed 
 each other at different sides of the way. One sold bread 
 of American flour, as the " only thing " : the other that
 
 EPSOM WELLS. 71 
 
 made from wheat of European growth. The whole town 
 was divided as to the merits of the two, the whole town 
 were different in their breakfast loaf; this might be of 
 course very profitable for the townspeople. But alas ! 
 while the Bakers fought, another " son of the dusty 
 jacket " set up shop by himself, selling both kinds of flour 
 mixed in his bread, while for such as wished it he had 
 each alone. His bread was good and cheap; his pla- 
 cidity charming, and the peace that reigned around his 
 counter most attractive. He soon obtained a large cus- 
 tom, which the combatants lost. 
 
 Thus Death is growing rich while Nature and the 
 Doctors differ. 
 
 I had once a very eccentric, but a very sensible friend. 
 He paid his Doctor so much a month as long as he was 
 well, but when he got sick, the salary ceased. He paid 
 his Physician a visit every morning at eight o'clock, walk- 
 ing two miles there and 2 miles back, just to know what 
 he might have for dinner, and was as you may suppose 
 rarely ill. 
 
 Eastern Monarchs, I have heard, are weighed once a 
 year by responsible commissioners, to test the Court 
 Physicians skill. If they keep up their condition, the 
 Doctor is handsomely rewarded : but if the balances turn 
 against them, then the poor disciple of Escalapius is 
 neatly decapitated, and another takes up the monarch at 
 his present market weight. Fair enough, though it would 
 be well to choose a kingdom slenderly governed, if a 
 Physician should feel his ambition so insatiable as to 
 force him to apply for court favour. 
 
 About the year 1621 the Wells were enclosed and a
 
 72 BPSOM WELLS. 
 
 shed erected for the sick, who came, the blind, the halt 
 and the maimed, in great numbers. Even to the countries 
 of the continent, did the tidings swell; and many high 
 and noble joined the pursuit of health to their examina- 
 tion of the wondrous constitution of the land of liberty. 
 
 About 1690, the arrangements for visitors were carried 
 out with energy and skill, under the encouragement at 
 least, of Mrs. Mynn and Mr Lucknor, and completed 
 under the lordship of John Parkhurst, Esq. 
 
 Mr. Toland's letter in the former part of this work to 
 Eudoxa, gives so graphic a description of the accessories 
 of the Wells, during Queen Anne's reign, that it were 
 waste of space to dwell further on them. It is well 
 known that Prince George of Denmark the Consort of 
 Queen Anne, was a frequent visitor to the Wells, and he 
 doubtless drew a large court with him. 
 
 A Jesuitical sort of clever rogue called Levingstone, the 
 type of many a living antitype in this present day, an 
 apothecary, left his "aligator and piles of empty pill boxes," 
 and sought these "diggins," where he succeeded pretty well 
 by lies and roguery in establishing a doubtful reputation. 
 He announced a new spring in the town, and the fact 
 becoming incontrovertibly established, on false premises, 
 he succeeded like many rogues until he was found out. 
 Well suborned witnesses of cures regular gentlemen 
 cured of ulcerated sores of enormous standing analytical 
 investigations by imaginary professors, formed his chief 
 capital. He called his establishment the New Wells, 
 gave concerts and balls, and on account of the multitude 
 of novelties which he introduced, and the cleverness of his 
 accomplices behind the scenes, succeeded to a great extent
 
 EPSOM WELLS. 73 
 
 in drawing away the visitors to the "real thing." The 
 waters sent to respectable chymists for their analysis, were 
 compounded according to what men desired they should 
 have, rather than were they the real produce of the Wells 
 explosions were well managed, purporting to be escapes 
 of the gas which these remarkable waters were said to 
 contain. He took care that his waters should have 
 both a dingy look and a nasty taste, and the public were 
 effectually gulled. 
 
 A certain Mrs. Deborah Giles, on "Chalibeate Wells," 
 speaks thus, and it beautifully illustrates, by a shrewd but 
 illiterate countrywomans judgement on such matters, 
 Mr. John Levingstone's probable mode of making his 
 wells. These are her very words "Killibit Well, d'wont 
 tell I nothing about your Killibit Wells, for its all a pack 
 of nonsense. A nasty taste has it ? ah ! its loikely to be 
 nasty; d'wont I know? Tinker's jackass was a coming 
 whom, years ago, with a load of salt, and dropped down 
 dead there ; that he did ; and they buried him salt and 
 all. Nasty ! why of course its nasty ; well it may be. 
 Jackass and salt be at the bottom of it, that's why." 
 
 At all events the want of efficacy in the new Epsom 
 Spa caused it to be gradually forsaken, and what is worse 
 it brought the old Wells, which were effectual, toppling 
 down with its ruin. 
 
 Indeed Levingstone took a lease of the Old Wells and 
 shut them up to prevent comparison, until at last, after 
 many vicissitudes, Epsom became, as far as a water drink- 
 ing resort, completely deserted. 
 
 The Wells connected with the original establishment on 
 the Common still exist the grounds in which they lie are
 
 74 EPSOM WELLS. 
 
 now held by Davidson, Esq. , who is most kind in per- 
 mitting free access to the spring. The water is now 
 drawn by an old iron pump, but as we have said has an 
 undoubted power, as any one can prove by a trial of a 
 few tumblers ^fter his breakfast, or what is better, after a 
 walk prior to that important meal. 
 
 It is really a pleasurable thing to start, of a morning 
 from Epsom, for the Old Wells, when the sun has been 
 warming the world for a few hours, and the playful breeze 
 is just beginning to get into " the humour of the thing," 
 and fans your fevered temples. 
 
 You get just one little sniff of the aromatic coffee that 
 
 old Mrs. your housekeeper is grinding fresh ; and 
 
 you know that there awaits your return crumpets, pickled 
 salmon, and the nicest possible round of beef. A little on 
 your way is met the cheery country-woman taking in your 
 fresh eggs ; and you are going a trip in preparation for 
 enjoying all these nice things. 
 
 The gentle murmur of nature waking herself, seems 
 breathing through the morn ; and the birds raise a prelude 
 to the glorious concert of the day. 
 
 Onwards you speed with elastic step, and presently 
 tread the soft turf which sinks and rises again beneath 
 your feet. Leaving the villages behind, you mount the 
 gentle slope of " the Common " and oftimes, through the 
 clear air beneath a turquoise sky, may see afar off the 
 towers of the Chrystal Palace flashing in the eastern sun- 
 beams like a Titans glorious shield. And then you come 
 to the waters and fill your crystal glass, and with a gentle 
 gurgle there flows in, to invigorate jaded nature, the 
 soft juicy stream, and then, as Pepys says, "so home"
 
 EPSOM WELLS. 75 
 
 home to breakfast, and to such a breakfast, and with 
 such an appetite ! so Home ! 
 
 What a contrast this presents to our preparation for 
 bathing when children nurse appearing with a decoction 
 of senna and salts creamed and sugared, which makes you 
 hate tea for years after, and with such an insinuating 
 smile beseeching the young victim to be good and take 
 his nice medicine. Out upon it ! Give us a walk like the 
 above to the Epsom Spa, and we shall gladly take its 
 medicine without any bribe. 
 
 I believe the analysis of the composition of these waters, 
 proves them to possess a large quantity of Sulphate of 
 Magnesia, called, from so plentifully pervading the mineral 
 springs here, Epsom Salts ; and I have been told that at 
 times there is quite a thick layer of these salts on the 
 surface of the water. 
 
 There have doubtless been some disquisitions which 
 pretend to much learning on the question Why these 
 Wells have lost their healing powers ? and I have been 
 highly amused by listening to a young bachelor medical 
 man, holding forth with much solemnity, and explaining, 
 to the manifest edification of an admiring group of young 
 ladies, the real and undoubted causes of the failure of 
 healing powers in the waters. Very foolish were his 
 ideas (if he had an idea at all). 
 
 " I tell you ladies " he said " that it is not sufficiently 
 understood, what immense powers of absorption, so to 
 speak, the human frame is capable of. Increase your 
 pulmonary regions, and you increase the atmospheric 
 wants of your population. Population has fearfully increa- 
 sed ; (he should have said, spite our patriotic efforts to
 
 76 EPSOM WELLS. 
 
 keep it down). The atmosphere requires certain qualities 
 for the sustenance of man. Peculiar properties in the 
 water are snatched up by the air in its catering for man. 
 the population consume these as fast as supplied and 
 ergo the waters fail in that peculiar quality." 
 
 Cheers from all the young ladies ; a murmur of approval 
 from several mammas, and a slap of approbation on the 
 back from the village parson, who received cheap advice 
 from the young professor and moreover had a couple of 
 daughters among the group. 
 
 But, if essayists have written or young doctors dogma- 
 tised on this matter, there still seems to me, no less to 
 exist a doubt whether the waters have lost one single 
 particle of that which they once possessed. Why do not 
 people try them for a sufficient time, as some have ? and 
 they would find that they still hold in solution sanatory 
 agents, and have in certain diseases a healing power. 
 
 Do you remember Scott's description of Dr. Rochecliffe 
 and his friends' exposition of King Charles's problem? 
 Doctor Rochecliffe was one of the constituent members of 
 the Royal Society, and was the person through whom the 
 King required of that learned body, solution of his curious 
 problem. Why, if a vessel is filled brimful of water and 
 a large fish plunged in thereto, nevertheless the water 
 shall not overflow the pitcher ? 
 
 Dr. Rochecliffe's exposition (whatever it was) of this 
 phenomenon was the most ingenious and instructive of 
 four that were given in ; and it is certain that the Doctor 
 must have gained the honour of the day, but for the 
 obstinacy of a plain, dull, country gentleman, who insisted 
 that the experiment should be in the first place tried
 
 MRS. MAPP. 77 
 
 publicly. When this was done, the event showed that it 
 would have been rather rash to have adopted the facts 
 exclusively on the Royal authority, as the fish however 
 curiously inserted into his native element, splashed the 
 water over the hall, and destroyed the credit of four 
 ingenious essayists, besides a large Turkey carpet. 
 
 This remarkable effect will certainly result from two or 
 three glasses of the Old Wells water, that no possible 
 doubt will exist upon your mind that you have had some. 
 
 A remarkable person arose into public notoriety who 
 served to keep attention alive, while the prosperity of the 
 Wells was on the wane. 
 
 Mrs. Mapp, who Manning states to have been " the 
 daughter of one Wallin, a bonesetter of Hindon, in 
 Wiltshire, and sister of Polly Peachum," the Polly 
 Peachum whom Gay immortalised in his Beggar's Opera, 
 then attracted almost as many visitors as the famous spa. 
 As the Wells professed to cure the stomach, so she be- 
 came the friend of its old fabled enemies, "the limbs." 
 
 She was long the quiet favourite of her learned fathers 
 home, but the high spirit which afterwards broke out with 
 such impetuosity began to show itself in the bud; she 
 quitted her father's house in an affected state of insanity, 
 and after many wanderings settled down in Epsom. 
 
 It is long before superstition shall be entirely banished 
 our earth, but certainly until the last century the most 
 extraordinary attributes were accorded to the mystic and 
 the strange. For instance, among the Scots, the existence
 
 78 MBS. MAPP. 
 
 of what was called "the second sight" was certainly little 
 doubted a century ago, and now is scarce everywhere 
 denied. 
 
 The cure of scrofula by the monarchs touch was fully 
 believed in as lately as the reign of George IV., and fully 
 practised by George III. 
 
 There is generally to be 'observed in those, who attempt 
 to impose upon their fellow men a belief in a wonder- 
 working power, a degree of eccentricity, if an habitual 
 difference from their fellow beings may be so called, which 
 being singular, gives them an interest in the estimation of 
 the weak, as a sort of beings separated by distinct know- 
 ledge and feeling from the rest of mankind. 
 
 It has often, however, been the case that if such clever 
 schemers were found to use their abilities for the benefit of 
 mankind, they were sure to meet with the admiration and 
 friendship of the great, the noble, and the wise. 
 
 Certainly Crazy Sally succeeded by her general eccen- 
 tricity of character and by some " very good hits " in her 
 bonesetting operations to acquire great notoriety. We 
 are told that the cures she wrought, and her success in 
 setting fractured bones and reducing dislocations, caused 
 so great a resort to the town that the inhabitants offered 
 her a handsome premium to settle down there. 
 
 Malcolm mentions and describes some of her cures in 
 his work on London, which are most astonishing while 
 they appear to be not at all doubtful. Her great success 
 must be in a measure attribute^ to her amazing strength, 
 coupled with her experience and observation in her fathers 
 home. 
 
 It is told of her that, on one occasion she was visited by
 
 MRS. MAPP. 79 
 
 a man, who, it was supposed, was suborned to test her 
 skill by some surgeons jealous of her success. He looked 
 in a wretched plight, being made up for his deceit. Pre- 
 tending that his wrist was dislocated, he lamentably prayed 
 for her kindly offices. 
 
 Sally having laid out all her preparations with some 
 formality, proceeded with confidence to the task, when lo ! 
 it proved to be a sham. 
 
 But her " soft deluder" was not to be easily let off; she 
 gave the deceitful limb a powerful wrench and really did 
 dislocate it, and then recommended the patient " to go to 
 the fools who sent him, and try their skill, or to return in 
 a month and she would heal him. 
 
 Her repute was so high, that it is said she received as 
 much as twenty pounds in fees on some days. She drove a 
 carriage and four horses, and demanded great respect. 
 
 But the tide of her good fortune began to ebb soon after 
 she had cast her eyes on sweet Mr. Mapp. He was foot- 
 man to a mercer on Ludgate Hill. Every effort was made 
 by her friends to stop so imprudent a step as her marriage 
 with him, but in vain. She was married, robbed, and 
 forsaken by this rascal, all within a fortnight. Her reputa- 
 tion now began quickly to fail, and she died in December 
 1737, so poor that the parish in which she resided in 
 London was obliged to bury her. 
 
 Will Hogarth's wit singled her out, and she will be seen, 
 as she appeared, when in the floodtide of her prosperity, in 
 his print of the " Consultation of Physicians." 
 
 I shall now proceed to notice some of the Seats of the 
 Gentry and their domains, which form such beautiful 
 accessories to the Village of Epsom.
 
 80 
 
 Durdans, or as it has been called " Durdants " we have 
 mentioned as among the Palatial residences near Epsom. 
 Johnson defines a palace as, " the Mansion of a Prince " 
 and in 1764, Frederick Prince of Wales, father of George 
 III., took up his residence here for a time. 
 
 King Charles II., having presented the palace of Non- 
 such near Ewell, to the infamous Duchess of Cleveland ; 
 she, to feed her extravagance, sold its materials to 
 George, the first Earl of Berkeley, who, with Mr. Samuel 
 Pepys and others, was made Master of the Ordinance, on 
 the 8th of November, 1654. Lord Berkeley erected a 
 magnificent structure with part of these materials in the 
 Park of Durdans, the scene of a sorrowful and humiliating 
 event in his family history which gave rise to a remarkable 
 trial, if Aubrey be correct in stating this to be the spot on 
 which the occurrence took place. 
 
 In September, 1662 Charles the II., and Catherine his 
 Queen, the Duke and Duchess of York, Prince Rupert, 
 Prince Edward and many Noblemen, dined with the Earl 
 of Berkeley at Durdans ; and probably to this dinner party 
 Samuel Pepys refers in his Diary of September 1st, 1662, 
 at the same time that he recalls the scene of his childish 
 sports, when he says " September 1st with Sir W. 
 Batten by coach to St. James' this being the first day of 
 our meeting there by the Duke's order; but when we 
 come, we found him going out by coach with his Duchess, 
 and he told us he was to go abroad with the Queen to-day 
 to Durdans, it seems to dine with my lord Berkeley at his 
 seat near Epsom, where I have been very merry when I 
 was a little boy." 
 
 In Evelyn's Diary, he relates that in 1665, he was at
 
 FREDERIC PRINCE OF WALES. 81 
 
 Durdans, where he found Dr. Wilkins, Sir William Petty 
 and Mr. Hooke, " contriving chariots, new rigging for 
 ships, a wheel to run races in, and other mechanical 
 inventions." He adds that, " perhaps three such persons 
 together were not found elsewhere in Europe for parts and 
 ingenuity and the historian of the " author of Sylva " 
 might say, such a companion as Evelyn for elegant 
 philosophy. 
 
 We do not find many incidents of interest during the 
 Earl's time, but at an after-period, it became the property 
 of the Earl of North and Guilford, subsequently having 
 been chosen by Frederic, Prince of Wales, as his residence. 
 
 This Prince, the son of George II., was given a high 
 character by Hume, but without the slightest foundation, 
 as it is now allowed, for his panegyric. He was a person of 
 wayward and unsettled habits, and perhaps the most un- 
 comfortable son a king and queen could have. Indeed he 
 was one source of the proverb that " the Guelphs could 
 never live in family harmony together." 
 
 Leigh Hunt, a well read and reliable authority has 
 drawn a rather ugly portrait of him, though to the life, in 
 his " Old Court Suburb," where he asks us to imagine 
 what sort of visitor this young man was considered by 
 his family when he was at home, " from the dismal fact 
 that he was hated by every one of them, father and mother 
 not excepted." His sisters openly avowed their contempt 
 for him ; the king pronounced him a. puppy, fool and 
 scoundrel, and the queen cursed the hour in which he was 
 born. Even the good natured minister described him a 
 poor, weak, irresolute, false, lying, dishonest, contemptible 
 wretch." A nice catalogue of vices certainly ! Unfeeling 
 
 o
 
 82 FREDERIC PRINCE OF WALES. 
 
 levity, however seems to have been a chief point in his 
 character; indeed this is the expression of face in his 
 portraits, see those at Hampton Court Palace ! 
 
 He goes on to remark proofs of this young man's nasty 
 character. It seems that one of his modes of annoying his 
 mother at Kensington Palace was, " by coming too late to 
 chapel, and making his wife, instead of entering by another 
 door, squeeze to her seat between the Queen and her 
 Majesties prayer-book." And when you consider that the 
 hoop in all its enormity was then in fashion, beating 
 crinoline hollow, you may imagine that the poor Queen 
 prayed in anything but comfort. 
 
 Again he points out his cheating propensities, and tells 
 how, looking out from a window in the Palace he spies 
 the title -hunting Bubb Doddington go by, and said, "That 
 man is reckoned one of the most sensible men in England ; 
 and yet with all his cleverness I have just nicked him out 
 of 500/." Traits like these made his parents call to mind 
 what an honest governor had said of him when he was a 
 boy. The Governor complained of some tricks which he 
 had been playing ; the Queen mother not then seeing what 
 such conduct foreshadowed, said goodnaturedly "Ah, 
 those are pages tricks I conceive." " Pages tricks !" said 
 the Governor, " I wish Madam they were, they are the 
 tricks of lacqueys and rascals." " The nicker of Bubb 
 Doddington," says Leigh Hunt, " nicked himself out of 
 life and a throne, by putting on a thin dress during cold 
 weather, because he felt himself hot with the pleurisy." 
 
 There is a spot upon the Downs near Epsom called still 
 " The Hawkery," where the Prince frequently followed 
 the heron with his hooded falcon.
 
 PBINCE FKEDEEIC AND THE SWEEP. 83 
 
 A small pillar or obelisk, now taken down, stood lately 
 in the shrubbery at Durdans, said to have been erected by 
 Frederic to the memory of a favourite dog ; and there was 
 another obelisk in the Common Fields approached by a 
 long avenue of walnut trees, where a curious scene is said 
 to have taken place ; the obelisk has been taken down, 
 and the flints of which it was composed have been used to 
 face St. Martin's Church ; while the avenue of trees now 
 no longer exists, having been many years ago consigned to 
 the upholsterer. 
 
 The story runs thus As Frederic was walking early 
 in the morning by himself, he saw, sitting at the end of 
 the avenue, a sweep dark with the soot of his vocation. 
 Angry at his intrusion into the Royal grounds, the Prince 
 called on him to begone. The merriest of grins was the 
 only reply. A walking stick was quickly flourished over 
 the intruder, but as quickly wrenched from the Royal 
 hand. After some angry words, the sweep dared Frederic 
 to the fight, and having stripped his sooty body he stood 
 fronting the heir to England's throne. Nothing loath 
 to this new adventure, Frederic threw off his coat, and 
 set to fisticuffs with his antagonist, who being a hardy 
 boxer, succeeded in bringing the fight to a conclusion 
 sadly adverse to the Prince. 
 
 He trod on the neck of his fallen enemy and loudly 
 proclaimed himself victor. Frederic had the magnanimity, 
 not only to confess his defeat, but to reward his conqueror, 
 and often told the story with much grace, while he ordered 
 the obelisk to be erected in honour of the fight. 
 
 Soon after Frederic's departure from Durdans, the 
 palace was taken down, and a new edifice commenced by 
 
 G 2
 
 84 SEATS OF THE GENTRY. 
 
 Mr Belchier. But even while this was in progress towards 
 completion, a fire broke out and destroyed it completely. 
 Then was erected the structure which at present adorns 
 the grounds, which after many changes came into the 
 hands of Sir Gilbert Heathcote, Baronet, and from him 
 descended to his son Arthur Heathcote, Esq., the present 
 occupant, who keeps one of the few packs of hounds that 
 exist in the County of Surrey. 
 
 The present House is a handsome building of red brick, 
 based with stone. The court entrance has a noble pair 
 of gates, through which the palace is viewed at its least 
 attractive side ; the park front is however possessed of 
 much greater architectural beauty, and looks on a noble 
 stretch of forest scenery with lawns of the richest verdure. 
 The trees are of magnificent growth, and the ground being 
 irregular, there are formed pictures of considerable love- 
 liness, which the sketcher will do well not to pass by. 
 
 "We never however can fail to associate with Durdans 
 this, its greatest historical charm under those trees and 
 amid those lawns, played in his childhood George III., 
 the greatest and wisest, because the most pious and God- 
 fearing of England's race of Kings. 
 
 Garlands is a very pretty residence remarkable for the 
 beauty of its timber, which must have had great care 
 taken of its early training, the grounds too are very varied ; 
 indeed, for its size, this residence is scarcely surpassed for 
 elegance and grace ; it is occupied by Alexander Crowe, 
 Esq. 
 
 Woodcote Park, one of the most beautiful residences 
 around Epsom, contains an area of three hundred and fifty 
 acres of ground, park and woodland. It is bounded by
 
 WOODCOTE PABK. 85 
 
 the Epsom downs and closely adjoins the race course, 
 which is approached by a turf carriage drive, overhung by 
 stately trees. Queen Victoria used this road in 1840, at 
 her last visit to Epsom Races on the Derby day, and it 
 has been ever since closed as sacred to Royalty. The 
 Park was then in possession of the Baron de Teissier, who 
 received his title from Louis XVIII., in the year 1819, as 
 lineal descendant of Teissier, Baron de Marguerittes, and 
 Marquis de Lagarne in Lanquedoc. It is now the prop- 
 erty of Robert Brooks, Esq., M.P. for Weymouth 
 
 The House which is represented in the plate adjoining, 
 is a handsome building consisting of centre and wide 
 stretching wings which are connected with the main build- 
 ing by arcades, which boldly throw them out. The 
 surrounding foliage is beautifully grouped, and the in- 
 terior of the dwelling very noble. The library is a very 
 symetrical apartment, enriched on its sides by gilding, 
 and with its ceiling ornamented by a good painting of 
 Verrio's pourtraying Ganymede. The apartment called the 
 painted room is richly covered with designs from ancient 
 mythology. The gardens are extensive and surrounded 
 by much glass. The park is filled with trees of a good 
 growth, and presents several lovely views. The Common 
 borders on this demesne, and from the waters which 
 abound in several parts of it, may be drawn forth gold fish, 
 which seem to thrive remarkably and attain a considerable 
 size. 
 
 Adjoining Woodcote Park and fronting the village 
 green, is the handsome residence of Edward Richard 
 Northey, Esq. For the extent of its grounds which are 
 not large, this demesne strikes the eye in passing as well
 
 86 THE KEV. MAKTIN MADAW. 
 
 laid out. Its greatest interest rests in the fact that the 
 mansion was built by Sir Edward Northey, Attorney- 
 general at several times in the reigns of three monarchs, 
 William the Third, Anne, and George the First. 
 
 The Park has within its limits several noble trees, and 
 stretches away into the sylvan scenery of Woodcote Park, 
 which it bounds. The honour of having supplied the 
 brood whose progeny until lately tenanted the high trees 
 in the London Temple Gardens is claimed by this in com- 
 mon with many other places, but we fear erroneously here, 
 since there seems a stronger claim set up by Beddington 
 elms, situate near Sir Walter Raleighs place of Mitcham. 
 The story here however is, that some students on their 
 return from an excursion, climbed the trees near Wood- 
 cote green and carried with them a nest with young, which 
 they deposited in that well-known nursery of law, where 
 many " a crow is plucked." It may be that more than 
 one excursion was made by the Temple youths, and more 
 than one progeny transferred. 
 
 Passing from Woodcote to Epsom is a large house 
 called Woodcote End, where dwelt the Reverend Martin 
 Madan, formerly chaplain to the Lock Hospital, London, 
 and which is now in the occupation of Doctor Graham. 
 The Reverend Martin Madan was a most popular preacher, 
 and attracted such crowds to his ministry that it was 
 found requisite to build a large chapel for the aforesaid 
 institution. He was born near Hertford, A.D. 1726, and 
 died in 1790, aged 64. His mother was aunt of Cowper 
 the poet. 
 
 Among his works are valuable collections of Psalms and 
 Hymns, extracted from various authors ; a Scriptural com-
 
 GENTLEMEN'S SEATS. 87 
 
 ment on the thirty-nine articles ; a sermon on Justification 
 by works ; and a literal version of Juvenal and Perseus 
 with notes, two volumes 8vo. But he made himself very 
 conspicuous in his day, and most unpopular with the 
 religious world, by writing a book called " Thelypthora." 
 This latter work was generally considered objectionable; 
 and such odium attached to it that it led to his retirement 
 from the pulpit, when he settled at Epsom where he died. 
 He was buried at Kensington. His brother Dr. Spenser 
 Madan became successively Bishop of Bristol and Peter- 
 borough. 
 
 This house where Mr. Madan lived and died is at present, 
 as we mentioned, in the occupation of Dr. T. J. Graham, 
 author of the well-known " Modern Domestic Medicine " 
 and -other books. The " Modern Domestic Medicine " is 
 a volume, invaluable to the heads of families, and has 
 already reached a twelfth edition. It is remarkable for its 
 diagnosces, its clear description of symptoms, and is at the 
 same time so particular in prescribing the needful remedies, 
 that the Doctor, who still practices, can be only accused 
 of, in many cases rendering his visits unnecessary, since 
 his literary substitute sometimes completes the work of 
 cure. This however must be a most valuable book in 
 scattered neighbourhoods, where an immediate application 
 of remedies often saves life until a professional man can 
 be called in. 
 
 At the entrance to Epsom on the Dorking road is a 
 large and handsome house of red brick, standing in its 
 grounds, which Lady Duckingfield lately inhabited, and 
 less recently the seat of Governor Starke. It now belongs 
 to Nathaniel Alexander, Esq., who resides there the
 
 88 GENTLEMEN'S SEATS. 
 
 garden front looks over the lovely country around Wood- 
 cote, commanding sweet views. In the pleasure grounds 
 there is a noble specimen of the Spanish laburnum, which 
 is quite a picture in its flowering season, when, clothed 
 with blossoms of great size which completely hide its trunk, 
 it presents its contrast to the foliage of its neighbours. 
 
 Adjoining Woodcote Green, is a large and handsome 
 house belonging to Mrs. Elmsie. It stands in very limited 
 grounds which is to be regretted, still from the back are 
 obtained fine views of the woodland, which adds such a 
 beauty to the neighbourhood of Epsom. This estate has 
 been considerably improved, and with excellent judgment 
 in the arrangement of the grounds. 
 
 The pretty Villa Residence of Miss Harvey, which 
 borders on the above, bounded as it is by woodland and 
 meadow interspersed, is a most agreeable summer abode. 
 
 At the entrance to High Street, stands the large brick 
 Mansion of James Norris, Esq., more fitted for a park 
 residence, than for the position it occupies, in juxta- 
 position to the town. 
 
 Down Hall, the residence of T. D. Bainbridge, Esq., 
 stands on the south-east side of Epsom, and commands one 
 of the best views of the town, while beyond it stretch the 
 noble Downs, and extensive ranges of richly diversified 
 scenery. 
 
 At the north-west is Horton Place, the residence of 
 Mrs. Trotter. The house was built by James Trotter, Esq., 
 who was High Sheriff of the County of Surrey, in 1798. 
 This is a fine Mansion enclosed in a considerable park. 
 
 Mrs. Trotter is owner of most of the landed property 
 within the Manor of Horton, and is a careful steward, for
 
 GENTLEMEN'S SEATS. 89 
 
 God, of the wealth which He has given her. We under- 
 stand that she offered to complete the endowment of Christ 
 Church on the Common, by a munificent donation, which 
 was inconsiderately declined. 
 
 Miss Trotter founded and endowed the excellent Infant 
 School on Clay Hill, which has been of great benefit to 
 the working classes. 
 
 Horton Lodge, adjoining the above, is the abode of 
 Henry Willis, Esq., one of the eminent firm of Bankers, 
 in Lombard Street, who has much improved this elegant 
 residence. The house is a handsome pile, commanding 
 some lovely views. The gardens are tastefully laid out 
 and richly stored. 
 
 Lastly we would mention the demesne of Hookfield 
 Grove, the residence of James Levick, Esq., on Clay Hill. 
 The house, which is a noble building, stands in an exten- 
 sive park, whose beautiful home-views it commands at the 
 north-west side. The ranges of glass and a beautiful con- 
 servatory render it, with its own architectural advantages 
 a most conspicuous object. It stands on the site of the 
 mansion which Toland speaks of, when he says " Sir 
 J. Ward's is a noble palace on Clay Hill." 
 
 The house which Mr. Levick removed to make way for 
 the present building was inhabited by the family of Knipe, 
 of whom many curious traditions are handed down. It is 
 told that they were remarkable for the luxury of their 
 living. Mr. Knipe's butler, who he much valued, is said 
 to have approached him one day, and given him notice 
 to leave. His master grew pale at the news and said ; Are 
 your wages too low ? No. Do you get proper food ? Ah 
 sir, that is the fault I find. Then double your allowance
 
 90 GENTLEMEN'S SEATS. 
 
 said Mr. Knipe. Ah Sir, said the servant, the Doctor tells 
 me that I cannot live a month if I eat and drink so luxuri- 
 ously, and he says I must go and engage as "Top Sawyer." 
 He went and engaged in this occupation spite all his 
 Master's entreaties or threats. Mr. Knipe is gone, but 
 the " Top Sawyer," which cognomen still clings to him, 
 is alive at ninety to tell the tale.
 
 EWELL. 
 
 91 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 WELL is a Village, small, but scarce sur- 
 passed in all Surrey for its favourable 
 situation and interesting history. An 
 " arm of courts," frequented by the mon- 
 archs of the most stirring ages, although 
 its primitive glory hath departed, the 
 memory of its adjunct remains ; while it 
 has Nonsuch as the chief beauty of its 
 suburb, Ewell can scarce fall into ob- 
 livion. But in itself it has such a charm 
 of salubrity, being noted among the places 
 of Surrey where health seems to love to 
 dwell, that an interest attaches to it cal- 
 culated to gather tourists thither, and to 
 win sojourners to its shades. Maiden bounds it on the 
 North ; Cheam on the East ; Banstead on the South, and 
 Epsom on the West and South- West. 
 
 There is some romance 'tis true in one derivation of its 
 name, but it is that which most befits the genius of the 
 place, where so near are the fields "famous for Cheam 
 mutton," and where the maidens do certainly go down to 
 its streams more "unclad" as in Eastern fashion, than
 
 92 
 
 elsewhere throughout the land. Rebecca drove to the 
 stream Laban's flocks ; and the open stream where " oft 
 the ewes are laved," may well be supposed to yield a 
 derivation for Ewe-well, the Well or Stream of the Ewes. 
 
 But romance apart there is an ancient name given to 
 Ewell, it is Etwelle, or Etwel, that is, " At the Well," 
 seemingly from its situation at the head of a small stream 
 which runs thence through many windings until it loses 
 itself in the bosom of the Thames. 
 
 Domesday-Book describes it ; we will not do more than 
 quote those words, "The King holds Etwelle in demesne," 
 and further on " To this manor pertains the Church of 
 Lered (Leatherhead), with forty acres of arable land, &c., 
 held by Osbern de Ow." 
 
 Whosoever desires to study the various vestings and 
 descent of this manor, will profitably consult the work on 
 Surrey by Manning and Bray. I would incline to pass on 
 to the year 1538, when it appears, after various possessors, 
 to have reverted to the Crown, and it was then annexed 
 by Henry VIII. as part of that great chase which he joined 
 to the newly erected honour of Hampton Court. 
 
 After the death of this grasping monarch, we find little 
 change occurring in the manor through the reigns of 
 Edward and Mary ; but Queen Elizabeth, who seems to 
 have been right royal in her munificence, presented Ewell, 
 together with the Manor of Wights, to Henry Fitz-Alan, 
 Earl of Arundel, whose daughter Joan was married to 
 Lord Lumley, who dying without issue, his sister Barbara 
 became his heiress. She first married Humphry Lloyd, 
 secondly William Williams. Her son by her first husband, 
 namely, Henry Lloyd, succeeded to Lord Lumley's estates,
 
 EWELL. 93 
 
 but not to his title, and from him the estates descended to 
 Robert Lumley Lloyd, D.D., who presented a petition for 
 a peerage on account of the reversion of the attainder 
 which had been put upon Ralph Baron Lumley, attainted 
 for rebellion against Henry IV, in 1409 ; his petition was 
 rejected, his plea being found unsubstantiated by collateral 
 facts. 
 
 The Doctor afterwards became Rector of St. Paul's 
 Covent Garden, and dying without issue vested his estates 
 in trust for his sisters, with remainder absolutely to Lord 
 J. Russell, afterwards Duke of Bedford. In 1755 the 
 Duke sold the manor to Edward Northey, Esq., who left 
 it to William Northey, Esq., from whom it descended to 
 his nephew, Edward Richard Northey, who lives at Wood- 
 cote House, Epsom, and to whom it still belongs. 
 
 We must be very brief in describing the Manor called 
 Botolphs, and yet we cannot pass it by, being as it is, part 
 and parcel of the Manor of Ewell. It was granted by 
 Henry I. to William de Battaile, and loses its distinctions 
 of tenure for some time until the reign of Henry V., when 
 Thomas Hayton seems to have held it. Agnes his 
 daughter married Thomas Carew, son of Nicholas Carew, 
 of Beddington, and he dying in 1430, his daughter Joan 
 married William Sanders, of Charlwood. A sale took 
 place in 1765, when Anthony Chamier, Esq., of Epsom, 
 became purchaser. His heirs again sold to Thomas 
 Calverley, from whom the estates descended to Thomas 
 Calverley, Esq., of Ewell Castle. He was on his death 
 succeeded by William Bowen Munro, Esq., and he left the 
 estates to his son who was yet a minor when he died. 
 
 The Manor of Fitzneil and that of Rookesly descended
 
 94 
 
 to the same William Bowen Monro, through him to his 
 son, yet a minor as we have said. 
 
 As we before remarked there is no mention of a church 
 at Ewell in the Domesday Book; but it is there said 
 that the church of Lered or Letherhead, pertained to the 
 manor of Ewell. 
 
 The advowson of Ewell formerly belonged to the same 
 Abbacy as that of Epsom the Abbott of Chertsey who was 
 so miraculously delivered from the Princess Coronetta, as 
 legends relates, held it, and Abbotts of the same, succeed- 
 ing to him, enjoyed its revenues. It became however 
 appropriated in 1308 ; and, to pass by many of its changes, 
 in 1560 Henry VIII., annexed the rectorial estate to the 
 honour of Hampton Court, an all-absorbing gulf. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth, as free as Henry was grasping, pre- 
 sented it with all its rights and appurtenances to Thomas 
 Reve and George Evelyn and their heirs &c., reserving 
 the tithes of some land within Nonsuch Park and various 
 fees and pensions. 
 
 I cannot find how it became vested in Sir William 
 Gardiner, Knight, of Lagham, but he left it by his will to 
 his son William, whose grandson William sold it in 1690 
 to Barton Holiday, Esq., by whom it was again sold in 
 1705 to Sir Richard Bulksley, Bart. 
 
 In 1709 Sir William Lewen, Knight, Alderman of Lon- 
 don, purchased the Rectory, and bequeathed it to his nephew 
 George Lewen, Esq., whose only daughter Susannah be- 
 came the wife of Richard Glyn, Esq., an eminent banker 
 in London. After being made Lord Mayor in 1758, he 
 was created Baronet in 1759. His death took place in 
 1772, when the rectory descended to his son Sir George
 
 HOG'S MILL BIVEK. 95 
 
 Glyn, second Baronet, from him to Sir Lewen Powell Glyn, 
 the third Baronet, and since he died unmarried in 1840, 
 he is succeeded by his only brother, Rev Sir George Lewen 
 Glyn, fourth and present Baronet, who is in holy orders 
 and himself holds with the advowson the Rectory, also, 
 
 Manning tells us that " the family of Glyn is paternally 
 descended from Cilmin Droued Tu, or Cilmin with a 
 black foot, of Glyndyffon, North Wales, who lived in the 
 year 843 and from whom a direct descent may be traced 
 to Sir Richard Glyn, who represents the second line of 
 the family, the family of Glynne in Flintshire being the 
 first branch, who at the Restoration altered the spelling of 
 their name from Glyn to Glynne." 
 
 There is little of interest connected with the village of 
 Ewell itself. In the seventeenth century indeed it was a 
 place of some greater importance, and once took precedence 
 of Epsom, before the Wells brought the latter place into 
 prominence. 
 
 The Waterloo branch of Rail has its station at one side 
 of the village, about half an hour brings the traveller from 
 London, and the entrance to the village is here very pic- 
 turesque, the water having been made the very most of in 
 its adornment swans float along its surface, and the 
 Grange, the residence of the Rev. Earnest S. Towne, is 
 tastefully laid out, presenting an elegant view. 
 
 Here are two large Flour Mills, well situated and receiv- 
 ing their power from the stream, called Hog's Mill River 
 the water is beautifully clear, and may be seen arising out 
 of the ground in very remarkable springs, which gurgle up 
 in a thousand sparkles. This water abounds with trout. 
 There is one of the springs which feed it, issuing from 
 a house in this neighbourhood.
 
 96 SEATS OF THE GENTRY. 
 
 Just here is the handsome Mansion of George Torr, Esq., 
 represented in the plate the interior of which is of a very 
 superior character. The hall and staircase are extremely 
 fine, and the suite of rooms on the ground floor opening 
 therefrom, arranged with judicious taste both for comfort 
 and ceremony. The views from the front of the House 
 are excellent, looking over a wide expanse of country. 
 The ranges of glass and conservatories occupy a large 
 space, surrounding well-laid out gardens, and are stored 
 with all manner of exquisite exotics, and deciduous plants. 
 The Lake, which forms a beautiful foreground in the 
 picture, is well stored with trout, and adapted for aquatics, 
 while the lordly swan has his home of quiet repose upon 
 its bosom. The Dairy which has a fountain playing in its 
 midst, and its windows stained with fine glass, is situate 
 at the side of the lake, and forms an object very prettily 
 designed. From the front windows there is an extremely 
 pretty view of Ewell Church, mingling its architecture with 
 trees of good growth. The out offices are on a large scale 
 and well built. 
 
 Mr. Torr is a valuable acquisition to the parish of 
 Ewell, as he takes considerable interest in its institutions, 
 munificently contributing to the building of Schools, &.c. 
 There are some pictures of merit surrounding the walls of 
 the reception rooms, which late additions have made 
 worthy of note. 
 
 Opposite Mr. Torr's Mansion stands the Spring Hotel, 
 in itself a picturesque object, surrounded by well grown 
 trees and having the Church as an accessory to its land- 
 scape. The proprietor is Mr. Goddard, who is extremely 
 attentive to his guests.

 
 SEATS OF THE GENTRY. 97 
 
 There has lately been added to this already comfortable 
 house a suite of rooms adapted to Masonic and other 
 meetings. The grounds are very tastefully laid out with 
 gardens and arbours, where the traveller may fancy himself 
 miles away from the busy hum of men; and no better 
 dinner and everything needful therewith can be had than 
 Mr. Goddard can supply. A visit to Ewell will amply 
 repay the traveller, and a visit to the Spring Hotel yield 
 him every needful comfort. There is good stabling attached, 
 and vehicles of all kinds may be obtained for drives 
 through the surrounding beautiful country, while within 
 quarter of a mile stand the gates of Nonsuch Palace, 
 whose grounds have a carriage drive passing through 
 their most lovely points of view, right onwards to Cheam. 
 
 Ewell Castle the seat of Mrs. Gadesden is a noble 
 residence, looking on a wide Park, which mingles itself 
 with the lands of Nonsuch. The Mansion is castellated 
 with turrets at the angles. A noble entrance porch, rich 
 with heraldic designs, invites into a lofty hall with mul- 
 lioned window and groined ceiling. The reception rooms 
 are very elegant, and the library filled with a choice col- 
 lection of books is a room that invites to study. 
 
 There are some terraces, and antique looking bastions, 
 which have been well kept and judiciously added to, and 
 which mark the spot, where is said to have stood the 
 ancient banquetting house of Henry VIII. The ancestor 
 of Mr. Calverly discovered these about ninety years since, 
 and cleared them from the surrounding debris. 
 
 It is near this the field lies, which is still called Diana's 
 Dyke, by tradition marked as having contained the cold 
 bath of the maiden Queen, where existed statues sculp-
 
 98 EWELL CHURCH. 
 
 tured from the well known fable of Diana and Acteon. 
 The pipes which supplied the fountains may have been 
 lately seen scattered among the filling of the Epsom 
 Railway. 
 
 Adjoining Ewell Castle is the Grove, the seat of Sir 
 John Rae Reid, Baronet ; a limited but well planted 
 demesne, which adds its foliage to make Ewell one of the 
 prettiest villages, so rich in wood and water, among the 
 pretty homesteads of Surrey. 
 
 With good taste and judgment the tower of the old 
 Church has been allowed to survive the demolition of its 
 chancel and nave, which it was found requisite to remove 
 in 1852. The old Church dedicated to St. Mary, was of 
 great antiquity, built of flint and stone, and with a roof of 
 coarse tiling. The south aisle was wont to open into a 
 chapel, builded by Richard Bray, in 1529, and in this 
 chapel he was buried in 1559. 
 
 It was determined to take down this old Church with 
 the exception of the tower, which should remain to 
 beautify the landscape, and to raise a new building more 
 suitable to the wants of the parishioners, while it was also 
 determined that the monuments should be replaced some- 
 thing as before, the brasses also in the corresponding 
 situations. 
 
 The necessary Funds were raised by subscription, Sir 
 George Glynn granting ground for the site and heading 
 the list with the munificent contribution of 5001. The 
 usual grants were obtained in aid of these subscriptions 
 from the Commissioners and Church Building Society,
 
 EVfELL CHURCH. 
 
 99 
 
 The new Church which was consecrated on the 24th of 
 August, 1848, is a handsome Gothic structure with chancel, 
 nave, and side aisles. The side aisles run up beside the 
 chancel which is a novel feature in architecture. Aided 
 by the judicious and symmetrical arrangement of the 
 various monuments, mostly from the old building, the 
 interior of the Church presents a very handsome appear- 
 ance. The nave and chancel are divided from the north 
 and south aisles by pointed arches or pillars. The roof 
 is lined with oak inside. 
 
 There is a Memorial Window by the side of the Chancel 
 in memory of the Lady Emily Jane, wife of Sir George 
 Glynn, of exquisite proportion and very rich emblazonment. 
 
 H 2
 
 100 MONUMENTS. 
 
 In the Chancel are several Brasses which adorn the 
 tessilated pavement One has the inscription, 
 
 " To the memory of Lady Jane, wife of Sir John Iwarby, of 
 Ewell, and daughter of John Agmondesham, Esq., of Ledred, in 
 Surrey, who died in May 1515. A small female figure is kneeling, 
 her hands joined as in prayer, and on her cloak, which is fastened 
 across the breast with a tasselled cord, are these arms, 1st and 
 4th on a chev between three boars heads couped, five cinquefoils ; 
 2nd, on a chev, three crosses molinfe ; 3rd, a lion rampant, double 
 queued." 
 
 The principal Mural Monuments are in the Chancel 
 also. In its south-west corner is a raised tomb, on which 
 is the sculptured effigy of a man reclining on his right 
 arm, his head covered with a full flowing wig, and in the 
 robes of an Alderman. A pilaster of the Corinthian 
 order supports a pediment ; the tablet has the following 
 inscription : 
 
 " Sir "William Lewen, Knt. and Aid., son of Robt. Lewen of 
 Wimborn, in the County of Dorset, Gent. He served the noble 
 City of London in ijs most honourable posts : was chosen Lord 
 Mayor anno 1717, which, and all others, he discharged with in- 
 tegrity and reputation. Obt. 16 die Mart 1721 aeta. tuae 65. 
 Here also lyeth the body of Charles Lewen, late of London, mer- 
 chant, nephew of Sir Wm. Lewen ; who departed this life the 
 23rd day of Nov., 1732, in the 60th year of his age. Likewise 
 Dame Susanna Lewen, wife of Sir Wm. Lewen, Knt. She died 
 the 30th day of December, 1737, aged 73." 
 Another tablet of white marble is sacred to the memory 
 of Sir Richard Glyn, L.L.D., Knt., Bart., and Aid. of 
 London, buried in the family vault in this church. Lord 
 Mayor of London 1 758 ; Representative in two Parlia- 
 ments for the City of London : Member for Coventry at his 
 decease ; President of Bridewell and Bethlehem Hospital ;
 
 MONUMENTS. 101 
 
 Vice-President of the Artillery Company. Died 1st of 
 January, 1773, aged 60 years. He was the son of Robert 
 Glyn, Esq., Citizen of London (who died 1746, aged 73, 
 and was buried in this vault) by Ann Maynard his wife. 
 Sir Richard Glyn had three sons by Susannah, only 
 daughter of George Lewen, Esq., of Ewell Robert Lewen, 
 George and Richard. Also three sons by Elizabeth, 
 daughter of Sir Robert Carr, of Hampton, Middlesex, 
 Bart. Richard Carr, Thomas and Edward. Also, to the 
 memory of Dame Elizabeth Glyn, daughter of Sir Robert 
 Carr, Bart., of the family of Etall, in the County of North- 
 umberland. She was the second wife of Sir Richard Glyn, 
 Bart., by whom she had three sons Sir Richard Carr 
 Glyn, Bart, Col. Thomas Glyn, and Edward Glyn. She 
 died the 14th of April, aged 77. 
 
 There is, near the above, a monument sacred to the 
 memory of Jane Lady Glyn, wife of Sir George Glyn, 
 Bart., and youngest daughter of the Rev. Watkin Lewes, 
 A.M., of Tredered, in the County of Pembroke. She died 
 sincerely lamented on September the 4th, 1790, aged 47 
 years, and is buried in the family vault in this chancel. 
 
 Also to the memory of Richard Lewen Glyn, her son, 
 Major in his Majesty's 81st Regiment of Foot, who died 
 at St. Domingo, July 5th, I 795, aged 25 years. 
 
 Another tablet is erected in memory of Col. Thomas 
 Glyn, late of his Majesty's 1st Regiment of Foot Guards, 
 in which he served in the American War in 1776, and in 
 Flanders in 1793, and was present at the memorable 
 Attack of Lincelles, on the 1 8th of August in that year. 
 He died on the 24th August, 1813, aged 57 years, and was 
 buried in the family vault in this church. He was the
 
 102 MONUMENTS. 
 
 second son of the late Sir Richard Glyn, Bart., by Dame 
 Elizabeth his second wife, daughter of Sir Robert Carr, 
 Bart. He married Henrietta Elizabeth Sackville Hilling- 
 bery ; by whom he had Thomas Clayton, Henrietta Eliza- 
 beth, Elizabeth Grace, Richard Carr, George Henry, 
 Robert Spencer and Amelia Mary. In the same vault 
 are deposited the remains of his second daughter, Elizabeth 
 Grace, who departed this life 10th April, 1809, aged 16 
 years and 4 months. 
 
 A plain white slab is sacred to the memory of Sir George 
 Glyn, Bart., of Ewell, in the County of Surrey, who died 
 the 4th day of September, 1814, aged 76 years. Also of 
 Sir Lewen Powell Glyn, Bart., son of the above, who died 
 the 28th day of July, 1840, aged 38 years, and lies interred 
 at Bath Easton, Somersetshire. 
 
 In the North aisle is a mural tablet, which records that, 
 " In the family vault near this spot, are deposited the 
 mortal remains of Sir Thomas Reid, Bart., of Ewell Grove, 
 in the County of Surrey, and of Graystone Park, in the 
 County of Dumfries, who died on the 29th day of Feb- 
 ruary, 1824, aged 61 years. Also of Lady Reid, widow of 
 the above, who died on the 29th day of January 1829, 
 aged 67 years. The Calverley family have various monu- 
 mental records in the South aisle, commencing with 
 Hannah wife of Thomas Calverley, Esq., of Southwark, 
 who died in 1758 and ending with Hector William 
 Rowen Munro, Esq., who was interred in 1842. He was 
 nephew of Mrs. Elizabeth Goldyer Calverley on the West 
 wall is a tablet in memory of Mrs. Lempriere and her son 
 Captain Lempriere. Its inscription is as follows : 
 
 "In a vault near this place are deposited the remains of
 
 MONUMENTS. 103 
 
 Elizabeth Lempriere, who died June 1833, aged 68. She was the 
 widow of William Charles Lempriere, Esq., chief Magistrate of 
 Jersey, and President of the States of that Island, who died at 
 Pezenas in France, 1st May, 1790, aged 35 years. Also of Captain 
 Lempriere, &c." 
 
 There are several other monuments of less note placed 
 in different situations with much judgment and taste. 
 We must not omit mention of a curious entry in the 
 Registers, which commence as we said in the year 1604. 
 It is as follows : 
 
 " Matthew Mountagew of Cohham, and Agatha Turner of Lea- 
 therhead ; their agreement of marridge was three market days 
 published in the Market of Ewell, and they were married by 
 Justis March of Darkin, the 3rd of July, 1654." 
 The celebrated wit and poet Richard Corbett, after- 
 wards Bishop of Norwich, was born at Ewell in 1582. 
 Fuller in his " Worthies " styles him " a high wit and 
 most excellent poet, of a courteous carriage." His poems 
 however have most established his literary reputation 
 They were printed first collectively in A.D. 1637. 
 
 But the chief glory of Ewell is the neighbouring Park 
 of Nonsuch, which skirts the village on its north side, which 
 from its acknowledged beauty as well as from its historical 
 reminiscences must always cause Ewell to be an object of 
 interest, both to the lover of scenery and to the antiquarian; 
 of Nonsuch, therefore we will now briefly treat in its two 
 aspects Nonsuch as it was, and Nonsuch as it is both 
 of which are illustrated by the accompanying plates. 
 Hanc quia non habent similem laudare Britanni 
 Sape solent Nullique Parem cognomine dicunt. 
 So sung Leland of Nonsuch in its palatial glory, when 
 kings and nobles trod its gorgeous courts when foreign-
 
 104 NONSUCH PALACE. 
 
 ers came from afar to wonder at its ostentatious mag- 
 nificence, and the profuseness of its adornation. Its archi- 
 tectural beauty and its natural advantages, combined to 
 cause it to stand without a rival, and to make just this 
 poets praise. 
 
 " This which no equal has in art or fame 
 Britons deservedly do None such name." 
 
 Nonsuch as it was is past away, but its natural love- 
 liness must increase while its glorious park trees keep 
 growing on, and its interest scarce can fail to be imprinted 
 in deeper lines, as history and legend (unwritten history) 
 grave monuments to the memory of the past. 
 
 The stately edifice which our plate sets forth was the 
 product of the chase ; the history of its rise is pleasant. 
 
 Bluff King Harry whose stormy infancy had been 
 cradled at a farm house near Woking, was a great lover 
 of the County of Surrey. His love for the chase met here 
 with ample gratification, and it was while following the 
 stag from Hampton Court, that tired and panting with his 
 exertions he stopped to rest at the foot of Banstead Downs. 
 
 Here he was hospitably entertained by Sir Richard de 
 Codington, one of a race who had held the Manor of 
 Codington, since the reign of Henry VIII., and delighted 
 with the prospects which he beheld, he offered in exchange 
 for the Manor, the Rectory glebe, and tithes of little Melton 
 in Norfolk. The King then annexed the manorial estate 
 to the honour of Hampton Court, and bade the old house 
 to be razed and this lordly palace to be built. The old 
 Church whose site is still shown in a corn field near at 
 hand, was at the same time pulled down, a hollow place 
 alone showing that the ground was ever stirred.
 
 HENRY VIII. AND NONSUCH. 105 
 
 King Henry is supposed to have lived very much here, 
 while the pile was advancing but he died in 1547, while 
 yet it was incomplete It was even then however suffici- 
 ently perfect in its outline to obtain the name, which 
 indicated its superiority to all other English palaces. 
 
 Nonsuch was Henry's favourite hobby, and when he 
 waxed heavy with sickness, age and corpulency, and might 
 not travel so readily abroad, but was constrained to seek 
 his game and pleasure near at hand, there he fancied that 
 he would dwell in peace amidst its lovely forest glased. 
 
 Henry however dying, the Palace remained unfinished 
 during the reign of Philip and Mary, until the year 1557, 
 when Queen Mary was prevailed on by the Earl of Arundel, 
 who was a great admirer of the memory of Henry, to sell 
 Nonsuch to him, and his wealth being immense and his 
 tastes elegant and refined, he attempted to carry out the 
 stout monarchs designs. 
 
 The Parks were ever full of deer, and he laid out 
 gardens with an unmatched degree of beauty. Fountains 
 sparkled in the sun, and from many surmounting clock 
 towers, there pealed forth notes of the passing hours ; beau- 
 tiful groves ornamented with trellis work, and inviting to 
 their shade, with seats placed here and there ; the lawns 
 with softest verdure clad ; and the proverbial salubrity of 
 the spot, all combined to make it seem a place formed 
 for pleasure and for peace. 
 
 At the other side lay Worcester Park, and beyond there 
 were passing lovely views of the Country around, all com- 
 manded from the lofty turrets of the palace. 
 
 As we see, it was consisting of apartments built* round 
 two courts, each approached by a gate-house embattled
 
 106 
 
 and with turrets. These gate-houses were built of mas- 
 sive stoneworks, as were also the foundation stories of the 
 palace itself, and they, at the side which faced the terraces, 
 were faced with beautiful Italian bass reliefs, but the 
 upper story of the palace was of wood, " richly adorned 
 and set-forth and garnished," as the historian tells us "with 
 a variety of statues pictures, and other antic forms of 
 excellent art and workmanship, and of no small cost." 
 at the angles of the inner court there rose two slender 
 turrets five stories high, with lanthorns on the top; here 
 the lords and ladies of the court were wont to climb and 
 view one of the noblest sights that could be imagined, as 
 over Worcester and Nonsuch with the vast extent of 
 country round, the beauties of Surrey enchanted them with 
 their loveliness. 
 
 We can imagine from this valuable plate of ancient 
 Nonsuch, its courts trodden by the lordly throng, stiff and 
 stately with the cumbrous robing, as well as starched 
 manners, that then prevailed. We can fancy the old 
 lumbering coach, with its heavy wheels and gilded panels ; 
 and seem to hear the echo of the huntsman's horn, and 
 the braying of the dogs, close around the house. The 
 lordly wassail in the hall, the influx of strangers of every 
 degree, the chiming of the clocks and the challenge of the 
 warders and Wolsey making his visit in Henry's day, 
 with his unecclesiastical pomp, and his monkeys and his 
 lacqueys, and his chests of perfumes, and his wardrobe 
 on sumpter mules, and all the glory of this nonsuch of 
 Cardinals do they not arise before the eye of the mind ? 
 
 But we are not left to mere imagination as to one queer 
 scene, here afterwards enacted, which well may be called
 
 QUEEN ELIZABETH AT NONSUCH. 107 
 
 Essex' folly. Queen Elizabeth became enamoured of the 
 beauties of Nonsuch, during visits which she occasionally 
 made to the Earl of Arundel, and after his death purchased 
 it from his daughter who married Lord Lumley. She 
 spent many summer seasons here during the latter part of 
 her reign, and here happened Essex' disgrace. 
 
 Eager to learn how Elizabeth thought of the peace 
 which he had made with the Earl of Tyrone, and his 
 impatient resignation of the Vice-Royalty of Ireland, he 
 arrives splashed and wayworn about ten o'clock in the 
 morning to Nonsuch. Such was his haste that he stayed 
 not until he came to the Queen's bed chamber, when he 
 found, says Rowland Whyte, in his letter which appears 
 in the Sidney State Papers, " the Queen newly up, the 
 hair about her face." If it be remembered that Elizabeth's 
 hair at that time was scarce her own, it will not be won- 
 dered at, that though he was well received at first, pre- 
 sently the Royal displeasure found vent. 
 
 It seems naturally to have been much wondered at, that 
 Essex should dare to go so boldly to her Majesty's 
 presence, and at such an hour, " she not being ready and 
 he so full of dirt and mire that his very face was full of 
 it," and probably the wonder was perceived piercing 
 curiously through the respectful courtesy of her attendants, 
 for by dinner time her wrath was fierce, and after objecting 
 to his conduct in Ireland, in a few hours more she orders 
 him to keep his chamber, and on the following Monday 
 he was committed to the custody of the Lord Keeper, by 
 this heartless and impetuous Queen this loss of whose 
 favour afterwards went so far as to cost him his head. 
 
 The same trait which so disfigured this monarchs
 
 108 QUEEN ELIZABETH AT NONSUCH. 
 
 character vanity which ever carried her to the utmost 
 extremes was developed at Nonsuch, and caused her to 
 leave for ever its healthy pleasant shades. As she was 
 riding home one sunhright day, she saw from afar, as she 
 thought, the Palace on fire. Quickly she sent forward a 
 band of messengers to enquire, and return to her with 
 the cause and the particulars, they soon returned and 
 smilingly told her that it was but the rays of the sun 
 gilding the roofs. So annoyed was she with the fact of 
 her mistake, that she ordered preparations to be made and 
 left that day for ever. 
 
 James I., and his Queen Anne of Denmark and Charles 
 I., with his Queen, have been at various times resident at 
 Nonsuch. After the execution of Charles I., Nonsuch 
 fell with the other crown lands into the hands of commis- 
 sioners appointed by Cromwell, one of whose Generals 
 afterwards occupied it. Still may be seen a tomb stone 
 in the churchyard at Cheam, sacred to the memory of the 
 Serjeant of the wine cellar to Charles I., who died after 
 his master's execution. 
 
 Samuel Pepys, Secretary to the Admiralty in the reign 
 of Charles II., and James II., notices a visit of his to 
 Nonsuch in 1663, the year after Charles' marriage with 
 Catherine of Portugal. 
 
 Towards the evening of July 25th, on which day he had 
 set off to Banstead Downs to see a famous race, he bade his 
 friends adieu, " resolving that, instead of the race which 
 failed him he would go to Epsom." When he comes there 
 he can get no lodgings " the town is so full," and we can 
 imagine him riding up and down the street, crowded with 
 ladies in hoops, and himself in a full-bottom wig, and ample
 
 SAMUEL PEPYS AND NONSUCH. 109 
 
 flowing cravat, looking for lodgings " but which is better" 
 he goes on to Ashtead and there gets a lodging, " in a little 
 hole we could not stand upright in." He finds his cousin 
 Pepys house, which he goes to look at, to come " little 
 short of what he took it to he when he was a little boy." 
 How beautifully natural this is, one so often finds those 
 places which as children they thought palaces come much 
 below the expectations of their childish fancy. 
 
 Then he rides through Epsom on Sunday the 26th, " to 
 the Well and the whole town over seeing the various 
 companys that were there walking ; which was very plea- 
 sant to see how they are there without anything to do, but 
 only in the morning to drink the waters. But oh to see 
 how many of the citizens be met there that I should not have 
 thought to see there ; that they ever had it in their heads 
 or purses to go down thither." And then He goes through 
 Nonsuch Park to the house and there viewed as much as 
 he could of the outside, peering in as we should through 
 the gates of Buckingham Palace, he looks through the 
 great gates and found a noble court and "altogether 
 believe it to have been a very noble house and a delicate 
 park about it, where just now there was a doe killed for 
 the King (Charles II.) to carry up to court." 
 
 We can easily with the excellent etching to help our 
 imagination, transport ourselves in fancy to these Royal 
 days of Nonsuch when monarchs wound the princely bugle 
 and rode madly with his courtiers behind the lordly stag. 
 
 And we can place beside this in our minds the contem- 
 porary history of London's fatal fire especially with Mr. 
 Samuel Pepys lucid description of the panic caused in 
 every mind from the monarchs down, when all thought
 
 110 NONSUCH PALACE. 
 
 the latter days were coming. If ever Mr. Pepys was 
 frightened he was then. 
 
 Nonsuch was chosen as a place of safety to move the 
 Treasury to. Look at his graphic description of the 
 panic, it is most amusing how, from the highest magis- 
 trate to the maids in the attic, all was alarm and dismay 
 "His Jane" comes to tell him that she hears three hun- 
 dred houses have heen burn't down through Saturday night, 
 while the sight that presented itself on the holy Sabbath 
 of September 2nd, 1666, was the terrible scene of a fire, 
 " an infinite great fire on this and the other side of the 
 bridge (London Bridge with houses on if as in the olden 
 time). And poor Pepys heart is perplexed, for he says 
 " it did trouble me for poor little Michell and our Sarah 
 on the bridge." 
 
 Among other things how he describes " the poor pigeons 
 loth to leave their houses, but hovered about the windows 
 and balconys until they burnt their wings and fell down." 
 And the poor people, like these forlorn birds, still clinging 
 to their homes and hearths until the very fire touched 
 them. 
 
 All this fills poor Pepys heart to bursting, and his sym- 
 pathy is creditable to the man, but still he forgets not his 
 sterner duties. He is Secretary to the Admiralty and 
 the monies of the Navy must be looked after. He first 
 endeavours to save the city, and by the King's command 
 " goes to look for the Lord Mayor of whom he says, " at 
 last met my Lord Mayor in Cfaning Street, like a man spent 
 with a handkerchief about his neck. To the King's message 
 he cries like a fainting woman, Lord what can I do I am 
 spent people will not obey me I have been pulling
 
 FIRE OF LONDON. Ill 
 
 down houses but the fire overtakes us faster than we can 
 do it." 
 
 Pepys then looks after 2,350 of his own, and then 
 cares for the Exchequer money This is put into ves- 
 sels to carry to Nonsuch House near Epsom, where the 
 Exchequer had formerly been kept. And then he dines 
 off an earthen platter a fried breast of mutton a great 
 many of us, but very merry ; and indeed as good. a meal, 
 though as ugly a one, as ever I had in my life." He goes 
 off and sups with Sir R. Ford, Mr. Knightly, and one 
 Withers, a professed rogue " supped well and mighty 
 merry, and our fears over." 
 
 And all this while those lovely trees at Nonsuch were 
 peacefully spreading their branches in the sunlight, or 
 sleeping with the birds in their arms, amid quiet shades, 
 or in happy repose the deer of those parks were whileing 
 away their careless hours. 
 
 And thus Pepys moralises his work done "Up betimes 
 and shave myself after a weeks growth, but oh, how ugly 
 I was yesterday, and how fine to-day," and so he is off to 
 see the destruction the flames had caused as he walks 
 among the dying embers of the City of London. 
 
 Mr. Thornbury, in a very interesting letter in the 
 Athenaaum, tells some particulars regarding Nonsuch relics, 
 which as he dwelt since a boy at Cheam, have all the 
 interest of being facts. After mentioning confirmatory 
 circumstances connected with the general history of the 
 palace days of Nonsuch, he says the father of his informant 
 was the old man who first ploughed up the site of the old 
 palace " where Shakespeare may have acted, and Byron 
 uttered wisdom." A great iron bar and a stone globe from
 
 112 THORNBURY ON NONSUCH. 
 
 some bygone gateway where all that were found. Shillings 
 and halfcrowns of Elizabeth are frequently found here. 
 Low-country tokens and Vespasian coppers ; and he found 
 himself a shilling of Henry VIII. with the effigy of Henry 
 VII. , which he supposes was an old Henry VII. which 
 passed through the Mint with a mere alteration of the 
 legend and date. 
 
 The ancient architectural glory of Nonsuch is gone ; 
 the voice of the monarch and the soft tread of the courtier, 
 the bugle of the warder, and the lordly train that was 
 wont to make up the pageant of royalty, are no more 
 characteristics which add a solemn sense of awe to the 
 scene ; but tradition still breathes around Nonsuch the 
 memories of the olden time, and that mind will indeed be 
 heavy, which will not at the touch of tradition's wand, 
 recal imaginary pictures of days gone by ; for not a hill 
 has lost the curve around which the forester, the huntsman, 
 and the attendant array in Lincoln Green, with bugle at 
 their side were wont to start the lordly stag and to follow 
 him with the baying hound. There are still trees in the 
 Park of extraordinary dimensions, which monarchs may 
 have stood under to view the grand battue. Indeed, there 
 is one, a venerable elm, which tradition associates with 
 Queen Bess and still called after her name, for she is said, 
 there to have had her stand when the an tiered denizens of 
 the park fell beneath the bolt of her crossbow. Queen 
 Elizabeth's Elm stands near the Lodge which admits from 
 Ewell-side to the Park. Its upper branches have been much 
 lightened, but it is still very sound in the trunk. This 
 trunk measures at base about twenty-six feet, and is, 
 perhaps, only second to the noble Wyche Elm at Ashtead, 
 in size, amid the forest scenery of Surrey.
 
 
 -.
 
 NONSUCH AS IT IS. 113 
 
 The Duke of Grafton, grandson to the Duchess of 
 Cleveland, when he sold Worcester Park to his steward, 
 John Walter, Esq., sold likewise the Little Park to Joseph 
 Thompson, Esq., who erected a dwelling house of moder- 
 ate pretensions at some distance from the site of the old 
 Palace. At the death of his devisee, Rev. Joseph Whately, 
 the estate was sold, and purchased by Samuel Farmer, Esq., 
 who built the present elegant mansion in 1803. 
 
 This is an imposing structure in the style of Elizabeth 
 with towers and embattled parapets, built by Jeffery 
 Wyattville. The suite of reception rooms is very handsome, 
 especially the drawing room of an octagonal form opening 
 by folding doors into an anti-room, whose windows are 
 filled with very ancient stained glass in character with the 
 ancient traditions of the place. The oak panelling and 
 furniture of the dining-room are suitable and rich, while 
 many good paintings adorn both the ceiling and the walls. 
 
 Before leaving Nonsuch, the visitor should look into the 
 garden where is a Wisteria tree on the garden wall, one 
 side of which alone is 1 20 feet long ; one wonders how 
 the sap will flow such a length along the straight branches. 
 This is, however, a very quickly growing tree in good 
 situations. There are also in the lawn goodly trees ; a 
 Scotch fir about seventy feet high and twelve feet in girth ; 
 Two cedars of immense size ; and the honey locust tree 
 nine feet in girth at the ground. Of chesnuts and Spanish 
 chesnuts there are some very fine specimens; but the 
 plane tree in a neighbouring hollow is perhaps the finest 
 of its species in England. The present possessor of 
 Nonsuch is William Farmer, Esq., who succeeded to the 
 property in the present year of 1860.
 
 114 NONSUCH A.8 IT IS. 
 
 The Gardens of Nonsuch are famous in every arena 
 where the battle of the flowers is " fought and fought 
 again." Their orchids are justly celebrated throughout 
 the land, and prize after prize has proved the excellence of 
 their management, and the skill and labour which are 
 bestowed on their cultivation. 
 
 And now we must take leave of Nonsuch Park ; and let 
 the tourist wander over its beauties as he will, they will 
 be found ever fresh and always enchanting by new phases ; 
 whether he look to discover the beauties of its vistas, or 
 wander down among the thick shade of its forest scenery, 
 or rest his eye upon the distant landscape now inspecting 
 some rare old denizen of the forest, which says, I have 
 lived when old monarchs were young or whether he 
 admires the masses of light and shade so well defined, as 
 the thick phalanxes of the forest group themselves above 
 the violet and the daisy he will find much that will make 
 it hard to tear himself away, much to make him long again 
 and again to visit this lovsly Park. 
 
 Let him store his mind from the pages of history before 
 he starts, and he will have grander thoughts and more 
 sublime meditations. But, above all, let him think and 
 ponder on that which renders Nonsuch beautiful still, 
 when its treasures of art have crumbled to the dust its 
 natural beauties remembering that "the hand which made 
 them is Divine."
 
 ASHTEAD ITS PARK ITS CHURCH. 
 
 115 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HE Village of Ashtead, situated within a 
 mile of Epsom, derives an interest from the 
 lovely Park, with whose glories it is con- 
 nected. 
 
 A traveller writing in 1 71 4, says concern- 
 ing it, "Within a mile of Epsom is Aysted, 
 belonging to Mr. Fielding, brother to the 
 Earl of Denbigh, which for its situation, 
 Park and Gardens, is inferior to nothing 
 of its bigness that I have seen in England ;" 
 and again Toland in 1666, says of it 
 " Ashted House and Park, the sweetest 
 spot of ground in the British world." We 
 need then to examine its loveliness if we 
 would not leave the beauties of Surrey unexplored. 
 
 Still the Village itself, though consisting of many 
 houses, will not fail to strike those who are gifted with 
 the love of beauty or a sense of the picturesque, so peace- 
 fully does it lie embosomed in the forest scenery around. 
 Standing on a gentle hill on the turnpike road, there is an 
 air of prosperity about its dwellings, which tells that there 
 is sympathy between the owner and tenantry of this lovely 
 estate. 
 
 i2
 
 116 ASHTEA.D IN DOOMSDAY BOOK. 
 
 The notice of Ashted in the Doomsday-Book, which we 
 have extracted, runs thus (We would remark that it was 
 anciently called Stede). " The Canons (of Baieux) hold 
 Stede of the Bishop. Turgis held it of Earl Harold, and 
 it was assessed at 9 hides, now at 3 hides 1 virgate. 
 The quantity of the arable land not stated. Two carucates 
 are in demesne, and there are 33 villains and 1 1 bordars 
 with 14 carucates. There are 9 bondmen, 7 hogs for 
 herbage, and 4 acres of meadow. In the time of King 
 Edward it was valued at 10/., afterwards at 61., and now 
 at 12J." 
 
 To pass over the possession of the Ashtead Manor 
 during the reigns of Edward I., named Longshanks, and 
 Edward II., the victim of a woman's perfidy, during which 
 it was held by the family of De Montford, we will examine 
 its tenure in the time of Henry VIII. Sir Edward Aston 
 made a transference of it in exchange for the Manor of 
 Hulton and other estates in Staffordshire and Derbyshire. 
 
 Leases of Ashtead were granted by Henry VIII. and 
 Mary, and in 1563, Queen Elizabeth gave its fee simple to 
 Henry Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, in consideration of a 
 payment in money. A daughter of this nobleman married 
 Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, who was executed 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and his son Philip was 
 confined in the Tower through false accusation, the estates 
 therefore returned to the Crown, until the accession of 
 James I., when Thomas Howard, son of the Earl of 
 Arundel, was restored to the titles and to some of the 
 estates of his ancestors, including Ashtead. 
 
 In the year 1680, the Ashtead Estate was sold by 
 Henry, Duke of Norfolk, grandson of the Earl of Arundel,
 
 SIR ROBERT HOWARD, HISTORIAN AND DRAMATIST. 117 
 
 to Sir Robert Howard, the sixth son of Thomas, first Earl 
 of Berkshire. He was created a Knight of the Bath, and 
 made Auditor of the Exchequer in the reign of Charles II., 
 and was the author of Lives of Edward II. and Richard II., 
 a History of Religion, various Poems and Plays both in 
 comedy and tragedy, the Committee, the Indian Queen, 
 the Surprisal, the Duke of Lerma, &c. 
 
 On the 7th of December, 1G66, Sir Robert brought into 
 the House of Parliament his famous Proviso to the Poll 
 Bill, which greatly enraged Charles, as it put certain 
 monies which he was wont to control into the hands of 
 commissioners. Mr. Pepys says in his Diary, " This was 
 brought in by Sir Robert Howard who hath a great office." 
 By his first wife Honora, daughter of the Earl of Thomond, 
 he had an only son, Thomas, who married Diana, the 
 daughter of Francis, Earl of Bradford, and their only sur- 
 viving child, a daughter, married Edward, Lord Dudley and 
 Ward, who dying shortly after, his title descended to a 
 posthumous son. 
 
 Lady Diana, the wife of the aforesaid Thomas, married, 
 secondly, William Fielding, youngest son of the Earl of 
 Denbigh, being in possession of Ashtead and other estates 
 under the will of her first husband. She had no issue by 
 her second marriage ; and her grandson having died in 
 1731, she settled the Manor of Ashtead on Henry Bowes 
 Howard, Earl of Suffolk and Berkshire for life ; with re- 
 mainder to his fifth son, the Hon. Thomas Howard, and 
 his issue male who succeeded to the estate, his nephew 
 being Henry, Earl of Suffolk and Berks. 
 
 Earl Henry died, as well as a son who was born after 
 his death, and the family title went to the above-named
 
 118 DESCENT OP MANOR. 
 
 Hon. Thomas Howard, who by his wife Elizabeth, daughter 
 of William Kingscote, Esq., had 'an only daughter Diana, 
 who married Sir Michael Fleming, Bart., of Rydal, and after 
 her fathers death she for some years lived at Ashtead. The 
 reversion, however, had been devised by the former Earl 
 to his mother, the Viscountess Andover, for her life, with 
 remainder to her daughter Frances in fee ; the property 
 eventually came to the latter, who married Richard Bagot, 
 Esq., who, by sign manual, assumed the name of Howard. 
 
 Mary, their only daughter, married the Hon. Colonel 
 Fulk Greville Upton, who also assumed the name of 
 Howard, and she succeeded to the Manor in 1818. Hon. 
 Mrs. Greville Howard, relict of Colonel Howard, now 
 holds the estates connected with Ashtead together with 
 other considerable lands in Staffordshire, Norfolk, and 
 Westmorland. Mrs. Howard resides much at Ashtead, 
 and wins the affection of her tenantry by her munificence 
 and anxious desire for their welfare. 
 
 Little Ashtead ; or, Priors Farm, was early separated 
 from the lordship, and was held by Mrs. Howard on lease. 
 
 Ashtead House, the seat of Mrs. Smith, has all the 
 advantage of the forest scenery of Ashtead Park, on which 
 it abuts, standing in grounds which, though not extensive, 
 are well laid out. 
 
 Ashtead Cot is the residence of Mrs. Chester, relict of 
 the late General Chester, and is prettily situated on the 
 western side of the parish. , 
 
 Ashtead Lodge is the residence of Mrs. Parker, its front 
 is rather too much shaded by the large trees which over- 
 hang it, restricting its view of the lovely scenery around. 
 
 Lastly, we would mention, that there is a good Inn
 
 ASHTEAD PARK. 119 
 
 where the tourist may find every necessary accommodation 
 and refreshment after his toil in drinking in the beauties 
 of this sylvan vale. It is kept by Mr. Thomas Skelton, 
 and lies well situate on the turnpike road. 
 
 ASHTEAD PARK. 
 
 Sweet Ashtead's glades ! 
 Where monarchs erst have trod 
 With Howard's noble sons ; 
 They all are past and gone ! 
 But yet there stands erect 
 A monarch, greater, sturdier in his pride : 
 Ruling the forest, Thou great Elm ! 
 Hast marked the grand array 
 Of kings and nobles, as they hawked or rode. 
 And though in props and bands 
 Thy ancient limbs are swathed Art 
 Mighty in thine age, thy green old age, 
 Which storms and blasts blow as they would, 
 Have failed to smite with ruin. 
 While many of greater youth and strength 
 Have been laid low thou standest, still. 
 
 Ashtead Park will ever be associated with the high and 
 the noble, and hardly separated from their deeds. For, 
 although the calm of its retreat has never been burst upon 
 by the hoarse cannons roar ; although the clarion has 
 sounded there only to warn the resting warrior back to
 
 120 THE KINGS AT ASHTEAD. 
 
 his toil again : yet kings have sojourned here, with their 
 footsteps scarce dry from the gore of bloody battles, to 
 nerve the wearied arm afresh, or in quiet sketch the map 
 of the future. And if Bacon be true when he says, " The 
 kings more special favour doth reflect upon some worthy 
 ones, as is somewhat necessary ;" then the Howards may 
 be justly proud that Charles II., politic and wise in state 
 affairs, though gay and thoughtless in his passions ; and 
 James II. , who was wont to court those that were powerful 
 and brave, though a nerveless feeble mind forbad him to 
 lean on himself, his own worst slave, should be associated 
 with William III. of pious and immortal memory, in doing 
 honour to the seat of a family whose loyalty, wisdom, and 
 high nobility have been ever as a proverb in connection 
 with their generous hospitality. 
 
 But the real glories of Ashtead must pertain more 
 largely to the present than the past. They must ever be 
 the result of natures primitive but ever growing beauties 
 rather than of the perishing memorials of art. And in 
 this sense description must fail to do adequate justice to 
 the exquisite beauty of its sylvan scenery, or to the un- 
 mutilated charms of those almost breathing speaking 
 nobles of its forest halls, which have played with the 
 evening Zephyr, or dared the wild hurricanes rudest 
 assaults, and that, during centuries of the past. 
 
 It has ever been the courtesy of courtiers to honour 
 kingly guests, by planting during their stay amid their 
 halls, some avenue or grove with what has been called 
 "the motto tree" of the monarch. And especially in revolu- 
 tionary times it was the custom of adherents thus to display 
 their zeal.
 
 AVENUE OF LIMES. 121 
 
 In Ashtead there are traces of this " right loyal " love. 
 The lime was the motto tree of William of Orange, and 
 a token of his adherents. 
 
 Between the House and the Church there stands a noble 
 Avenue of these trees, forming now a leafy canopy which 
 tells of years gone by. These were planted when the great 
 restorer of England's Protestant liberty dwelt with Sir 
 Robert Howard as his guest at Ashtead. And these will 
 long remain, if other hands are as loving to the forest 
 beauties as those that tend them now, till years are past 
 and gone, to tell a subjects loyalty and earnest zeal. 
 
 From this avenue the ground gradually changes its 
 character as it ascends to a more wild and tangled 
 " pleasaunce," and into the country beyond. 
 
 If there be such charm connected with places where the 
 early childhood even of monarchs was passed, and if every 
 little memorial thereof is carefully treasured until ages 
 have passed and gone : of how much greater interest must 
 those scenes be, where such a man as William of Orange, 
 silent and morose amid Courts, was wont to unbend him- 
 self, and perhaps pour forth his mind well stored, as it is 
 allowed to have been, with every lore, and to mingle it 
 with the kindred spirit of such a one as Sir Robert 
 Howard, the subtle politician, as well as the talented 
 historian and dramatist. 
 
 The Park and demesne of Ashtead are not large, although 
 the property connected with it is of considerable extent. 
 One of several estates held by the Hon. Mrs. Howard, this 
 is the one which she seems most to choose as her residence. 
 Remarkable as a kind and liberal landowner, she is here 
 especially beloved. Schools flourish institutions abound,
 
 122 AUBREY AND EVELYN ON ASHTEAD. 
 
 under the Rev. William Legge, who has been Rector of 
 Ashtead since the year 1826, with whom Mrs. Howard 
 seems to co-operate fully, and the Rev. Barrington Taylor, 
 the estimable Curate of the Parish. 
 
 It is, indeed, not to be wondered at that Ashtead should 
 be a favourite seat of its owner, for there can be but one 
 opinion as to both its comfort and beauty. 
 
 Aubrey, who is quaintly called " the Herodotus of 
 Surrey, possessing rare and patient curiosity," after his 
 exploratory visit here pronounces it in language far too 
 small for its merit " a handsome seat with a neat garden 
 pleasantly situated." 
 
 The House which Aubrey saw has, however, been long 
 taken down, namely, that in which Sir Robert Howard 
 entertained the Kings of England. 
 
 John Evelyn writes concerning the staircase of that old 
 building, and he was ever among the greatest admirers of 
 Ashtead, with his elegant taste and refined feeling. In 
 his Diary of the 10th of May, 1684, he says "The stair- 
 case is painted by Verrio with the glory of Astrea. Among 
 other figures is the picture of the painter himself, and not 
 at all unlike him. There is also Sir Robert Howard's 
 picture, which is an oval." 
 
 The present House was erected by Richard Howard, 
 Esq., who married Frances, daughter of William Viscount 
 Andover, and sister of Henry, the 12th Earl of Suffolk 
 and Berks. It is in the form of a large square, built of 
 white brick with stone dressings, with a portico on the 
 Northern front. The whole cost of building this man- 
 sion, with its out-offices and ranges of glass, is said to 
 have been 1 00,OOOJ. The interior is far more magnificent
 
 GALLERY OF PICTURES. 123 
 
 than from its outer aspect would be supposed. It contains 
 a noble hall and staircase Many valuable paintings and 
 articles of vertu decorate the interior, which also contains 
 an excellent Library of rare and choice works in several 
 languages, collected by the various owners and evincing 
 strong evidence of the extent of their acquirements in 
 elegant literature. 
 
 Among the Pictures of superior merit in the different 
 apartments of this Mansion are the following. We would 
 enumerate twelve which adorn the principal Drawing 
 Room : " Jacob leaving the House of Laban," by Bas- 
 sano ; an " Infant Saviour," byGuidoReni; "The Holy 
 Family," by Jacobo Carracci ; " The Little Shepherdess," 
 and " The Fortune Teller," both by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; 
 a " Battle Piece," by Jacobo il Bourgognone ; " St. 
 Margaret of Sweden," by Carlo Dolce ; " The Battle of 
 Pavia," by Breughel ; " An Allegorical Group, bound by 
 a golden chain, with a lovely View of Venice," by an 
 artist of the Venetian school; a "Flemish Fair," by 
 David Vinkenboom ; " Jepthas Vow," by Giorgione ; and 
 a speaking " Landscape," by that loveliest of Nature's 
 painters, Claude Lorraine. Very beautiful, indeed, is the 
 Chimney Piece in this room, from a design by Piranesi, 
 in white statuary marble. 
 
 The Hall, which is an elegant and well stored apart- 
 ment, is adorned with several gems of art. There are here 
 two Busts, of whitest marble, by the sculptor Bartolini, 
 one of the Marchioness of Bristol, and the other of her 
 daughter, the Lady Augusta Seymour. Four of the Pictures 
 in the Library deserve particular notice "Boors at Cards," 
 by Teniers, jun. ; " Gonzales painting the Portrait of Ger-
 
 124 PICTURES AND SCULPTURES. 
 
 rard Segers," by Gonzales Caques ; " The Fable of the 
 Satyr and Traveller," by Jacob Jordans ; and " The Seige 
 of a Town," Parrocel. 
 
 In the Hall particular notice is claimed for the "Picture 
 of Dead Game and Fruit," by Sneyders ; two " Sea 
 Views," by Peter Molyn ; two views of " St. Peter's in 
 Rome," by Paolo Panini; "Philip IV. of Spain," and 
 another of " Elizabeth of Bourbon," by Rubens and his 
 scholar Schuttz ; " Oakhampton Castle," by Wilson. 
 
 The Dining Room contains several portraits and other 
 paintings, and among them, "Lady Diana Howard and 
 her two Children," by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; another 
 " Picture of these two Children, by the same ; " Sir 
 Robert Howard," by Kneller ; a "Portrait of Lord Dudley 
 and Ward," and another of " Lady Dudley and Ward," 
 both by Murray; "Still Life," by Peter Roestraten ; 
 " Lady Tufton," by Sir Peter Lely ; " Henrietta of 
 France, daughter of Charles I.," by Sir P. Lely; two 
 " Pictures of Buildings," by Dirk Van Delen ; " Two 
 Boys, one playing on the flute." by Gherardo della motte. 
 
 In the Study, there is a " Full-length portrait of Mary 
 Howard, daughter of Richard and Frances Howard, and 
 wife of the Hon. Fulk Greville Howard," by Sir Thomas 
 Lawrence ; another by Harlowe, of the " Hon. Sophia 
 Upton ; " Henrietta Maria," by John de Rheyn ; " Six 
 Views of Rome," by Eastlake ; " Katherine, wife of the 
 fourth Earl of Bedford," by Sir Peter Lely. 
 
 In -the Hon. Mrs. Howard's Room, "Richard Howard, 
 Esq., by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; " Mary Viscountess 
 Andover," by Glover ; " The Hon. F. G. Howard, hus- 
 band to Mary Howard, and who assumed her name," by 
 Harlowe.
 
 THE WYCH ELM. 125 
 
 In the Dressing Room attached thereto are portraits of 
 "The Hon. Francis Howard, and of the Viscount Andover." 
 
 The Velvet Bed Chamber has a series of clever portraits, 
 that of " Thomas Howard, son of the Hon. Sir Robert 
 Howard," by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; "Lady Diana Howard" 
 by the same ; " Lady Diana Howard, when Lady Diana 
 Fielding," by Murray ; " Catherine Graham, afterwards 
 Countess of Suffolk and Berkshire," by Jarvis ; and one of 
 the " Countess of Suffolk and Berkshire." Several others 
 of greater or lesser merit adorn the apartments, which 
 space will not admit the mention of. Those to which we 
 have referred will suffice to show the rare value of this 
 beautiful collection. 
 
 Around the House are extensive shrubberies stocked 
 with the choicest trees and shrubs, and from its base the 
 ground slopes downward by a graceful declension towards 
 the Lake, around which are grouped numbers of goodly 
 forest trees. The beech, the chesnut, the walnut, and the 
 noble ash are* here, but the most prominent of all among 
 them is the far-famed Wych Elm, ulmus montana, which 
 has attained a truly wonderful growth, even greater than 
 that of the Elm near the Church at Kenilworth, to which 
 every traveller to those parts wends his way, to look at 
 that which has been the wonder of past ages, while it 
 remains a glory of the present. 
 
 The Ashtead Wych Elm is of enormous size, and, 
 although it has attained an age which it would seem 
 fabulous to state, is still verdant and healthy in its upper 
 limbs. Measured clear round the base, it will be found 
 to reach forty feet in circumference. Does it not look like 
 some aged warrior whose trembling limbs have been well
 
 126 SPANISH CHESNUT TREES. 
 
 supported by the care of those who loved him, shored up 
 as it is by underposts ? Or may it not be likened to some 
 fierce giant who has grown old in his unsubdued strength 
 of will, tottering but determined, beneath his fetters. It 
 is truly wonderful how, notwithstanding the great weight 
 of its upper branches, this noble elm has stood the force 
 of elements which have swept whole forests with destruc- 
 tion and laid the bravest low. And it seems like some 
 hoary annuitant determined to live on still, now that it is 
 so fondled by the hands of kindness, so that if there be a 
 sapling looking forward to stand in its place, it must 
 reckon on itself growing old, before the stout Wych Elm 
 shall fall. 
 
 Scattered at the borders of the demesne and adjoining 
 the Lake are some specimens of the Spanish Chesnut, 
 which have a noble and elegant appearance, growing, as 
 they do in this climate, with something of the strength of 
 the oak as well as the grace of the ash. Some have 
 reached the various girths of fifteen, sixteen, and even 
 twenty-two feet, and one of them is fifteen feet in circum- 
 ference even at the height of a man. 
 
 The following curious traditionary story is well authen- 
 ticated regarding these forest trees. The relater says, 
 " In the year 1803, at Ashtead Park near Epsom, the seat 
 of Richard Howard, Esq., there are a great many Spanish 
 chesnut trees, which are the kind of tree most frequently 
 introduced by Salvator in his pictures of forest life, and 
 which were sown by a gardener now living (that is, living 
 in 1803). One of these, which, at three feet from the 
 ground, measures seven feet in circumference (now fifteen 
 feet), and has a trunk which is upwards of fifty feet high.
 
 PARK SCENERY. 127 
 
 Since writing the above (he says) I have seen the old 
 gardener, Thomas Davie, who is now seventy-seven years 
 old, and have had some conversation with him ; he says, 
 that at the age of fifteen he bought three shillings worth 
 of chesnuts in London on purpose to treat his fellow 
 servants ; but finding that they would not accept them, 
 he sowed them in a bed in the garden at Ashtead, which 
 then belonged to the Earl of Suffolk, and afterwards 
 planted out the young trees as they now stand. These 
 trees are therefore at this time " sixty-two years old from 
 the seed." Now, this being in 1803, the trees would be 
 about 120 years old, according to Thomas Davie ; but the 
 growth must have been enormously quick since their first 
 planting, if this is their full age. However, even if this be 
 correct, they were planted six years before the Battle of 
 Culloden, and it may be correct, since the Spanish chesnut 
 is a fast growing tree, and their situation in Ashtead Park 
 is, on account of shelter and moisture, peculiarly favourable 
 to their rapid growth. 
 
 There are some lordly Beeches also in this demesne. 
 There has ever prevailed much diversity of opinion with 
 regard to the beauty of the beech. Evelyn, in his Sylva, 
 speaks of it as one of the handsomest of our forest trees, 
 and adds, " they make spreading trees and noble shades 
 when planted at forty-feet distance." The propriety of 
 his remark may be tested at Ashtead, where they stand at 
 similar distances just as if planted by his direction. 
 
 White, of Selbourne, declares the beech to be "the 
 most lovely of forest trees, whether we consider its smooth 
 rind or bark, its glossy foliage, or graceful pendulous 
 boughs.
 
 128 PARK SCENERY 
 
 Gilpin, however, we must remark, thinks the beech 
 rather an unpleasing tree made up of littleness, and he 
 may have been thought to have looked at it with somewhat 
 of an artists eye. 
 
 However, the painters of the present day seem in very 
 many cases to have thought differently. Gainsborough 
 certainly did think differently. The paintings of modern 
 masters of landscape painting have no tree more pictur- 
 esque in the truak, roots, and lower branches than this, 
 the colour of which is a charming grey often beautifully 
 varied with rich brown spots of lichen and mosses which 
 sometimes encircle the trunk, giving out its rotundity with 
 greater distinctness. Is there not a transparent delicacy 
 of tender green on its leaves in spring ? and what a tone 
 the early colour of the buds then gives to the woods ! 
 
 There can, I think, be no tree more beautiful in its 
 decaying hues of autumn than the Golden Beech, changing 
 from green to the brightest orange, then to glowing red 
 and finally to a russet brown. 
 
 At all events in secluded scenes such as Ashtead, the 
 picturesque beauty of the beech of the forest must be seen, 
 and there seen, to be fully appreciated, as beneath its 
 pendent branches rest the stately deer, while a dim 
 religious light is shed around. 
 
 This demesne has ever been celebrated for the abundance 
 and quality of its deer, who gather in large herds around 
 the lake, and give life and animation to the scene. 
 
 It is said that there were two large antlers preserved in 
 Ashtead Hall for many years, with which a legend was 
 connected. It states that one of the park deer had 
 attained a most marvellous old age, and that he demanded
 
 OLD LEGEND OF DEER. 129 
 
 and obtained a high degree of respect and veneration from 
 the other denizens of the park ; walking before them with 
 ostentatious pride, and leading them capriciously whither- 
 soever he would. On certain occasions it is told that he 
 even visited delinquents against his authority with the 
 punishment of death. When he had reached a great old 
 age he went and stood by the borders of the lake, no 
 longer able to ramble as had been his wont, nor stirred 
 from thence, day or night, ever attended by a certain 
 number of his satelites, who placed chewed grass or leaves 
 humbly at his feet. Here he lived in such a course many 
 years, and at last quietly resigned his breath, dying of 
 sheer old age. 
 
 This we know, that huge antlers have frequently been 
 found in many parts of these islands slightly buried by the 
 side of streams or lakes. If the instinct be a common one, 
 which leads the aged deer to seek this mode of laying 
 him down to sleep the sleep of death, probably the above 
 legend is founded on fact. It is natural that the old deer 
 should come down thither, and that they may more readily 
 drink by the clear streams, and partake of the soft pasture 
 which grows by the waters side. And it is well ascer- 
 tained that absolute and acknowledged monarchy obtains, 
 not only among the beasts, but among even reptiles and 
 insects too. 
 
 The Gardens and Conservatories of Ashtead are very 
 ample. There is, perhaps, the most perfect collection of 
 herbaceous plants anywhere to be found in the one, and 
 in the other the heaths and pelargoniums are excellent. 
 
 The Fruiting House and Hothouses are beautifully ar- 
 ranged, in which peaches and nectarines are brought to 
 
 K
 
 130 ASHTEAD CHUHCH. 
 
 an early ripening, and the Melonry is stocked with the 
 richest kinds. 
 
 The Stables are on a magnificent scale and well kept, 
 while the numbers of antiquated retainers who keep 
 watch about the courts and grounds, shew that the law of 
 kindness is here well rendered, appreciated and repaid. 
 
 LOSE to the 
 House is Ash- 
 tead Church. 
 This is an an- 
 cient structure 
 dedicated to St. 
 Giles. It is said 
 that it was once 
 entirely sur- 
 rounded by a 
 Roman fosse 
 much of which 
 is still to be 
 seen. And, in- 
 asmuch as there may be perceived fragments of a Rom^n 
 building intermixed with the stones in the walls of the 
 fabric, it may be presumed, that some ancient building of 
 Latin origin stood here. Indeed, this part of Surrey is 
 noted for Roman remains, as we remark in other parts of 
 this work. Albury, Woodcote, and many places around 
 have various relics, while encampments on commanding 
 eminences, and the probable position of Noviomagus or 
 Nceomagus of the Regni a Belgic people who inhabited 
 Surrey in former days, the supposed ancient capital of the 
 county, furnish still a battle-field for the local antiquaries.
 
 ROMAN REMAINS. 131 
 
 The Rev. William Legge, Rector of Ashtead, had in 
 his possession several fragments of Roman tiles, probably 
 portions of a Hypocaust, which came into his hands 
 during the restoration of the Church ; this restoration was 
 completed not many years ago, and the building at the 
 same time was considerably enlarged, at the cost of the 
 owners of the estate, and further enlargements have been 
 and are now making, which will considerably increase the 
 accommodation. 
 
 Ashtead Church is a most perfect and beautiful little 
 structure, consisting of nave, chancel, north transept, and 
 tower, with a north chapel. The tower contains six bells. 
 
 The open Timber Roof both of chancel, nave and 
 transept is very elegant, being supported inside by figures 
 of crowned angels beautifully carved, as the entire panel- 
 ling of the inner roof is in Havannah cedar, and the 
 Church is throughout pewed with cedar from Australia. 
 The altar rails and the figures of the four evangelists in 
 the chancel are exquisitely carved. A large and massive 
 old font stands near the southern porch with an elaborately 
 carved cover of cedar extending upwards nearly to the roof. 
 
 The Windows in the Chancel are gems of art, the east 
 window represents, in the centre light, the crucifixion with 
 a view of Jerusalem ; figures of the Virgin and St. John 
 fill the side compartments. This beautiful specimen of 
 the highest style of glass-painting which has at any period 
 prevailed, originally belonged to a Convent in Hersk, of 
 Flanders, where it was bought by the Hon. Mrs. Howard 
 at considerable cost. It is with great justice highly admired. 
 
 The Communion Table is of oak and richly carved, and 
 was presented by the Baron de Teissier. 
 
 K 2
 
 132 MONUMENTS. 
 
 The Monuments are costly and elegant, some of them 
 possessing considerable interest. 
 
 A white tablet is erected in the Chancel with this 
 inscription, 
 
 " To the beloved memory of Fulk Greville Howard, 2nd eon of 
 Clotworthy, 1st Baron Templetown. He married Mary, daughter 
 of Richard and Frances Howard, on the 7th day of July, 1 807, 
 and took the name of Howard. After a blessed union of more 
 than 38 years he entered into his rest on the 4th day of March, 
 1 846, in the 73rd year of his age, and was buried in the vault 
 underneath on the 14th day of the same month. 1st Thess. v. 9 
 and 10 verses." 
 
 One sacred to the memory of the Lady Diana Fielding 
 has her bust of white marble, enclosed in darker veins of 
 the same stone under a pediment. Above are the arms of 
 Howard and Warren. It has this inscription 
 
 " Be this monument sacred to the memory of the Lady Diana 
 Fielding, daughter of Francis, Earl of Bradford. Her first hus- 
 band was Thomas, son of Sir Robert Howard, grandson of Thomas, 
 Earl of Berkshire. She survived the issue she had by him ; she 
 had no other." 
 
 This illustrious branch of the House of Howard became her 
 family. To this family, during her life, she assured inheritance 
 of that estate which she enjoyed by the bounty of her first hus- 
 band : at her death she made provision still more ample to support 
 the honour and dignity of the present Earl of Berkshire and his 
 descendants. That his gratitude thereof may stand recorded to 
 after ages, that the same gratitude may be preserved in the minds 
 of his latest posterity, Henry Bowes, Earl of Berkshire, has caused 
 this monument to be erected, anno 1733. 
 On the South side of the Chancel is a chaste and elegant 
 monument with this inscription 
 
 " Sacred to the memory of Frances Howard, daughter of William, 
 Viscount Andover, and sister of Henry, 12th Earl of Suffolk; she
 
 MONUMENTS. 133 
 
 married Richard, son of Sir Walter Bagot, Baronet; and died 16th 
 September, 1818, in the 84th year of her age. Also of Richard 
 Howard, her husband, who died on the 12th of November follow- 
 ing, on that day completing his 85th year : and of Henry and 
 Richard their sons, who died in infancy." 
 A handsome tablet is erected with armorial emblazon- 
 ments, the following inscription being wrought in gold 
 letters : 
 
 " In this vault lies the body of Thomas Howard, Esq., son of 
 the Hon. Sir Robert Howard, Knight, Baronet, and grandson to 
 the Right Hon. Thomas, Earl of Berkshire, who died the 4th day 
 of April, 1701, in the 50th year of his age. And also of Thomas 
 Howard, jun., son of Thomas Howard, Esq., who died the 27th of 
 February, 1702, in the 15th year of his age.!" 
 A similar tablet has the following record : 
 
 " Here lieth the body of the Right Hon. Diana Lady Dudley 
 and Ward, relict of the Right Hon. Edward Baron Dudley, and 
 Baron Ward of Birmingham. She died May the 17th, 1709, in 
 the 23rd year of her age. She was only daughter of Thomas 
 Howard, of Ashtead, Esq., and the Right Hon. the Lady Diana his 
 wife, who, to her daughter's memory, by her directions, erected 
 this monument, intending also to be there interred herself." 
 A small white marble tablet is erected, 
 
 " To the memory of Anne, fifth daughter of Charles Chester, of 
 
 Chicheley Hall, in the County of Buckingham, Esq., and cousin 
 
 of Mary Howard, who placed this to her memory. She died 
 
 November 5th, 1851, in the 65th year of her age." 
 
 There is a most interesting inscription which must not 
 
 be overlooked. On a gravestone in the Chancel floor 
 
 are two brass shields of arms, and beneath them it is thus 
 
 recorded, 
 
 " Bodlaei conjux, Fromoundi filia, Christ! 
 
 Serva, sub his saxis. Elizabetha jacet. 
 
 Under this stone lies Elizabeth, berefte of mortal lyfe 
 
 Christ's faithful servant, Fromouds child and Bodleis loving wyfc. 
 
 TV . 1 V^> 't ^f Vor-oV, onr.^ TV"! 1 511 >>
 
 134 THE NATIONAL SCHOOLS. 
 
 Our limits will not permit us to notice the many inter- 
 esting inscriptions which adorn the walls around. In the 
 graveyard too are many memorials of the silent dead which 
 he that passes will do well to scan. Day by day adds to 
 their number, but the day is quickly coming, when death 
 no more shall so ruthlessly ply his scythe, and those 
 that sleep shall rise. Many an age has passed, and many 
 a memorial has decayed, since that ancient Yew was first 
 placed in the earth, which now shades the resting place of 
 generations gone by. 
 
 To the West of the Church, at the distance of half a 
 mile, stands the Rectory House, the residence of the Rev. 
 William Legge, Rector of Ashtead, who was instituted to 
 this benefice in September 1826. A. noble walnut with 
 wide spreading branches overshadows its front, a tree 
 which must be of immense age. The Rectory is a com- 
 fortable residence. The Library in it is stored with a 
 choice collection of books of considerable value. An 
 excellent garden is attached. 
 
 The Ashtead National School is at a convenient distance 
 from the Church. This suitable building was erected in 
 1856, by the Hon. Mrs.. Howard. Inserted in the wall of 
 the gable are the arms of the Howard family quartered, 
 and an inscription which explains the nature of this liberal 
 gift to the young of the parish. It is as follows, 
 " Ad honorem Dei, et in memoriam matris SUSB 
 Franceses Howard Hanc Scholam pro liberia 
 Utriusque sexfts in doctrina et disciplina 
 
 ECCL S CATHOL* ANGLICA 
 
 Aliarumque rerum qua utiles sint scientia 
 Instrucndis propriis suis impensis ffidificavit 
 
 Maria Howard, 
 Anno salutis nostrse 1856.
 
 ALMSHOUSES STANE STREET CAUSEWAY. 135 
 
 Here also are Almshouses originally built by the Lady 
 Diana Fielding, but not long since enlarged by the Hon. 
 Mrs. Howard, where many of those whom it has pleased 
 God to spare to a good old age, receive the comforts of a 
 home with a small weekly allowance. There is on the 
 walls of this excellent establishment an inscription descrip- 
 tive of the founders design : 
 
 " This hospital was erected and an annual provision made for 
 the better support and maintenance of six poor widows of this 
 parish for ever, by the appointment of the Right Hon. Lady Diana 
 Fielding, relict of the Hon. Thomas Howard her first husband, 
 and afterwards of the Hon. William Fielding, to whose memory 
 this stone was set up by the Earl of Berkshire, the present Lord of 
 the Manor, and one of the Governors of this Hospital." 
 
 February, 1736. 
 "We Praise thee Oh God." 
 
 On the Common behind Newton Wood is a Medicinal 
 Spring of considerable power as an aperient. A brick 
 wall has been erected round it, but it has fallen, together 
 with its neighbouring spring at Epsom Wells, into disuse. 
 Near this wood is an ancient Danish entrenchment in- 
 closing several acres of ground, probably occupied in 
 former days as a summer camp. 
 
 The traces of Roman occupation, as we remarked, are 
 very visible. Running at the end of the outer avenue of 
 Ashtead Park, there is a road called the " Stane Street 
 Causeway," which leads over Mickleham Downs by Caesar's 
 Camp. This road, which was in use in the reign of 
 Richard II. as the king's highway for part of its course 
 near Dorking, where it may still be seen, presents evident 
 traces of its Roman origin. 
 
 And now we must with regret leave the present subject
 
 136 CONTRAST, ASHTEAD AND LONDON. 
 
 which did space permit we should gladly prolong. If the 
 tourist desires a real treat he will not leave the lovely 
 park of Ashtead unvisited. Never will he be so struck as, 
 if he be a citizen of the great city, he will be here with the 
 contrast presented to the districts which more immediately 
 border on the Metropolis. You, who from the arches of 
 either railway look down upon the fetid courts of Ber- 
 mondsey or Lambeth, reeking with all the abominations of 
 the waterside, odorous of glue and bone manufactories, 
 can hardly realise that you are within little more than an 
 hours reach of scenery as lovely as nature can paint it ; 
 scenery which for its quiet loveliness, cannot be surpassed. 
 Go with Evelyn into those secluded haunts. Think with 
 Evelyn as far as you may in his highly refined trains of 
 thought, and enchantment will seem to invest these scenes 
 with some of the glories of a Paradise. Go there when 
 the soft gales of summer blow ; away from Thames which 
 is then breathing forth anything but summer joys. Lie 
 beneath the spreading branches of the forest, when 
 
 The lightest winds are in their nest, 
 
 The tempest in its home, 
 
 The whispering trees are half asleep, 
 
 The clouds are gone to play, 
 
 And on the bosom of the vale 
 
 The smiles of heaven lay ; 
 
 'Twill seem as if the hour were one 
 
 Sent from heyond the skies, 
 
 Which gathered from above the sun, 
 
 A light of Paradise.
 
 LETHERHEAD. 
 
 137 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ETHERHEAD, a Village of Surrey, prettily 
 situate on swelling ground, and dwelling 
 in the heart of well clothed forest trees, 
 next demands our attention. It is built in 
 the form of a cross and possesses consider- 
 able unity of design, while " the gentle 
 Mole" winds embracingly around it, cast- 
 ing her arms forth as though to gather it 
 to her bosom. 
 
 In wet seasons the Mole here attains 
 considerable breadth, and is crossed by a 
 handsome bridge of fourteen arches, with 
 rich cut stone piers. A very ancient struc- 
 ture spanned this stream in the reign of 
 Edward III., which in the old estimates we find was a 
 to 11 -bridge, and accounts are extant under the heading, 
 " De Elemosynis colligcndis pro Reparatione Pontis de
 
 138 
 
 Lederhed," of a license being granted to collect money for 
 its repair. 
 
 The Anglo-Saxons called this place Leodride, and under 
 that title King Alfred bestowed it on his son Edward. 
 
 It is difficult to trace any actual mention of Letherhead 
 in Doomsday-Book, though an inference may be drawn 
 from the fact of its being included in the Manor of Thorn- 
 croft at the present time, that it is virtually mentioned. 
 The Sheriff's Torn or County Court was in the olden time 
 held in Letherhead, and we may easily suppose a corrup- 
 tion of the name Tornecroft to Thorncroft. The Manor 
 of Thorncroft, the present style of which is Thorncroft in 
 Letherhead, belonged at the Doomsday survey to Richard 
 de Tonbridge. " The said Richard holds Tornecrosta in 
 demesne. Cola (Nicholas) held it of King Edward." 
 
 Letherhead is now, it is true, totally distinct from 
 Thorncroft, but still singularly intermixed with it, so that 
 men can hardly tell you which is the one, and which 
 the other. In Doomsday-book, however, there is a men- 
 tion of Lered as in connection with Ewell, and Manning 
 crtes from old accounts that in the fourth year of King 
 John (1203), Brian Therfield held land of the yearly value 
 of 10s. in Ledrid, with the serjeantry of the forest of 
 Mickleham. We may therefore take for granted that the 
 Church of Leret mentioned in connection with the Kings 
 Manor of Ewell, and the Ledred thus bearing connection 
 with the forest of Mickleham, were the same 
 
 Leddered is mentioned in the Escheats of Edward I., 
 but in the Escheats of Henry V. and Henry VI., Ledered 
 alias Letherhead plentifully occurs. This Manor gave 
 name to the ancient family de Leddrede, of whom we are 
 told that Ralphe de Leddrede paid half a mark in aid of
 
 OETGIN OF THE NAME. 139 
 
 the marriage of King Henry the Seconds daughter. Mad- 
 dox in his History of the Exchequer mentions this fact. 
 
 There are many supposed roots whence this name is 
 derived. Perhaps the most correct is that which alludes 
 to the form of the ground. The ancient British language 
 has many words to signifiy a declivitous or sloping situa- 
 tion, and where such a description of ground occurs, it is 
 very frequently chosen in almost all languages, as the 
 cognomen of towns or residences built thereon. A sloping 
 place was named by the Aborigines, Lleddf, Llethr, 
 Ltethred, Llethredd, and the Welsh word is very similar. 
 Letherhead sloping gently towards the Mole, it would very 
 probably call forth this appellation. 
 
 The Parish, which consists of very rich land, is bounded 
 on the North by Maiden and Ashtead ; on the East by 
 Headley and Ashtead ; on the South by Mickleham ; and 
 on the West by Stoke D'Abernon and Fetcham. 
 
 Not to enter into the minute particulars of description 
 which Doomsday-Book gives of the tenure and value of 
 the manors with which it was associated, we will merely 
 mention that it appears thence, that there were three 
 separate estates at Pachesam or Letherhead before the 
 Norman Conquest. The manor was afterwards separated 
 into four parts ; there is a large account of their various 
 divisions, sub-divisions, owners, and occupiers, in larger 
 histories such as that of Manning and Bray, which those 
 curious in such matters may consult. 
 
 The country immediately surrounding Letherhead is of 
 extreme loveliness, but especially that part which runs 
 towards Ashtead and Mickleham ; the yew. and the beech 
 largely prevail, indeed, more largely than in any part of
 
 140 VILLAGE 8CENEBY. 
 
 England I have seen. But what is so pretty to my mind 
 as connected with a village the environs are beautified by 
 that most graceful denizen of the copse and woodland, the 
 pink hawthorn, which mingles here with the drooping lilac 
 and laburnam. 
 
 In the Gentlemen's Shrubberies close to the town there 
 are some very beautiful shrubs and flowering trees, among 
 which we specially remarked the pink accacia in full 
 flowering in sweet May. But the tourist will admit that 
 nothing can be prettier than the entire features of this 
 portion of the County of Surrey. The wish springs up 
 spontaneously, as from the trees and hills and curvatures 
 of the ground and sweet meandering streams, pictures of 
 the rarest loveliness are formed upon the retina. Oh that 
 I had a cottage here, in some sequestered vale, far from 
 the busy hum of men, with some " to whisper solitude 
 is sweet," and wander with me up the hilly winding paths, 
 which girt by the holly and the hazel copse or the sombre 
 yew, twine themselves round Mickleham and Headley, or 
 by the Mole. How sweet to see the glorious landscapes 
 of this lovely scene, now basking in the sunshine or play- 
 ing in the breeze, now changing like the expressions in a 
 maidens face, as the clouds run careering before the sun, 
 or sometimes in the morning after a night of showers, 
 looking like a bather refreshed, or like one from sorrows 
 iron hand relieved, smiling glad again ! 
 
 But we must back to dull detail. One somehow feels 
 as D'Lolme, who did not dream he should see the beauties 
 of the English constitution to be so great until he pro- 
 gressed in their description, and is carried away by the 
 beautiful and lovely that everywhere strews the path.
 
 CABARET OF ELINOUR BUMMYNG. 141 
 
 CABARET OP ELINOUR RUMMTNG. 
 
 Near the Bridge which spans the Mole are some traces 
 of the Cabaret or Inn of the far-famed Alewife of Lether- 
 head ; now they are with sad ill taste incorporated into the 
 structure which supports the sign of the Running Horse. 
 It is a pity these successors to remarkable persons, even 
 for their own sake, if they have no pity for the feelings of 
 the antiquary, will not consult some judicious friend when 
 they rebuild or restore such places. 
 
 Skelton, tutor, and afterwards poet-laureate to Henry 
 VIII., has stamped the place of residence of the old 
 Alewife of Letherhead with deep characters of notoriety, 
 which will not be easily obliterated. Everything proceed- 
 ing from his Muse bears the mark of his satirical genius 
 it is true, and the poem in which he refers to her is not 
 either elegant nor free from coarseness in its allusions, but 
 still, "The Tunnying of Elinour Rummyng" will ever 
 cause literary tourists to stop and admire the spot where 
 once this type of Old England's alewives dwelt.
 
 142 JITDGE JEFPRY. 
 
 On the title-page "of the old edition of his poems, dated 
 1571, is a rude woodcut of an ancient, ill-favoured hag, 
 holding in either hand, at arms length, a leathern pot or 
 black jack, with the inscription, 
 
 " When Skelton wore the laurel crown, 
 
 My ale put all the Alewives down." 
 
 And if the present landlord was pound -wise he would 
 obtain a sign and motto well copied from this title-page, 
 and seek to restore, outwardly at least, the vestiges of 
 antiquity, for Englishmen dearly love to " bide by " the 
 traces of the olden time. The overhanging chambers are 
 at any time pretty, but amidst such scenery some such 
 memory of the past would be in good keeping. 
 
 There is little of interest in the Village itself. The 
 infamous Judge Jeffry lodged here for a short time in 
 concealment, it is said, in an underground vault, after the 
 revolution of 1688. He came to see his daughter when 
 she was at the threshold of that grave, to which he had 
 so ruthlessly committed many an innocent one, and her 
 funeral was solemnised, as the Register notices, on De- 
 cember 2nd, 1688. He who had been the willing and 
 bloodthirsty agent of a heartless and cruel King, was then 
 under proscription and a reward set upon his head ; yet, 
 with the tenderness which sometimes will exhibit itself in 
 the stoniest hearts towards their own offspring, this 
 wretched man wept bitterly, it is said, over his own dead. 
 His daughter was living with her uncle, whose sister was 
 married to the unhappy Judge, and who lived in the 
 Mansion House originally built in Henry VII. reign. The 
 old Chantrey Chapel, built in that reign, still exists on the 
 North side of the Church.
 
 THE CHURCH. 143 
 
 This Mansion now is used as a Grammar School, under 
 management which has gained the very highest repute, 
 having furnished an unwonted number of prizeboys to the 
 Oxford and Cambridge University Middle-Class Examina- 
 tions. Its grounds descend to the river Mole, and are 
 well laid out. 
 
 The Church is very old, one of the most ancient in 
 Surrey. It is dedicated to St. Mary and St. Nicholas. It 
 was much enlarged and renewed early in the 14th century. 
 It forms from many points of view a beautiful feature in 
 the landscape, and from its summit you may obtain fine 
 and diversified views of the most lovely points of the 
 country adjoining. The Bells as they reverberate their 
 happy chimes which gather echoes from the surrounding 
 hills, lend a peculiar interest to the scene around. They 
 are eight in number. 
 
 The East Window in the Chancel is filled with finely 
 stained glass, which was collected by the Rev. James Dalla- 
 way, who was instituted vicar in 1804. A piscina and 
 three stone seats still remain, used probably in former 
 times by the Canons of Ledes. 
 
 The Monuments are handsome and invested with much 
 interest. We regret that our space does not enable us to 
 do more than merely point them out for further examina- 
 tion. 
 
 The oldest we can find is that which commemorates 
 Robert Gardyner, of Thorncroft, Chief Sergeant of the 
 Cellar to Queen Elizabeth. It is a brass plate near the 
 pew of the Manor. Robert Gardyner married Anne, 
 daughter of Robert Dethicke, of Greenwich, and sister of 
 Sir Gilbert Dethicke. He died on November 10th, 1571, 
 aged 73 years. The inscription was written by Thomas
 
 144 MONUMENTS. 
 
 Churchyard (a meet name for an epitaph writer) court 
 
 poet to Queen Elizabeth, and is as follows 1 
 
 "Here firyndly Robartt Gardner lies, well born of rightt good race, 
 
 Who sarv'd in courtt wyth credytt styll, in worthi rowlm and place, 
 
 Cheef Sargantt of the Seller longe, whear he dyd duetty shoe, 
 
 Wyth good regard to all degrees, as far as powre myghtt goe. 
 
 He past hys youth in sutch good flraem, he came to aeged years ; 
 
 And thearby porchaest honest maem, as by reportt apeers. 
 
 A firynd, whear any cause he ffownd, and corttes unto all ; 
 
 Of myny moode, and pleasantt spetch, however happ-dyd ffall. 
 
 Ffour chyldren for to ffornish fforth the table rownd he had 
 
 With sober wyeff, most matren lyk, to make a man ffull glad. 
 
 Prepared to dye long ear his day, whych argues great goode mynd ; 
 
 And told us in the other world whatt hoep he had to flynd. 
 
 We leave hyme whear he loektt to be our lord receyve hys sperett 
 
 Wyth peace and rest in Habrams brest, whear we att length may 
 
 meett. 
 
 Against the North Wall is a white marble tablet, sacred 
 to the memory of William Henry Spicer, Esq., Queen's 
 Dragoon Guards, who died at his residence, the Mansion, 
 Letherhead, 1841. 
 
 The Chancel Monuments are pretty ; on the South side 
 is one of white marble in a freestone frame elegantly 
 sculptured, to the memory of Louisa Maria, wife of 
 Thomas Dickens, Esq., of Vale Lodge, who died in 1833. 
 One also in memory of Richard Byron, Rear Admiral of 
 the White C.B., 1837. And a high pyramidical monu- 
 ment surmounted by an urn, records the interment of 
 Richard Dalton, Esq., Sergeant of the Wine Cellar to 
 Charles II., who died October 4th, 1681 ; with several 
 others of greater or lesser interest in various parts of the 
 Church. 
 
 The Vicarage, a pretty building, is now occupied by the
 
 RESIDENCES OF THE GENTRY, ETC. 145 
 
 Rev. Benjamin Chapman, A.M , whose institution took 
 place August 23rd, 1836. He is the author of several 
 interesting and learned works. 
 
 The Rectory House now is known better by the name 
 of Vale Lodge, the residence of E. Corrie, Esq. 
 
 The Register of Baptisms and Burials has been regularly 
 continued in this parish since the year 1656, and some 
 prior baptisms have been copied from older registers. 
 The marriage register commences at 1690. 
 
 The only Hotel worthy of notice is the Swan, kept by 
 Mr. Moore. This is a first-class house, possessing every 
 requisite of comfortable accommodation. 
 
 The Priory, we find from Brayley's History of Surrey, 
 was formerly a small tenement called the Link House, 
 from a curious obligation attached to it of finding a link 
 or torch to burn before the altar of St. Nicholas in the 
 parish Church. It was afterwards rebuilt and enlarged, 
 and suits well, in its style of architecture, the picturesque 
 situation in which it stands. It is now in the occupation 
 of Mrs. Bond. 
 
 The Priory is noted as having been the residence of 
 \V. Cotton, Esq., who here gathered together wonderful 
 store of valuable engravings, numismatical specimens of 
 great value, and various articles of vertu, which he be- 
 queathed to the Museum at Portsmouth, now called after 
 its founder, the Cottonian Museum. 
 
 A handsome Entrance Lodge and Bridge admits to 
 Thorncroft, the residence of R. Colvin, Esq., a merchant 
 of London. This is a beautiful mansion, receiving the 
 advantages of trees and water to enhance the beauty of 
 its views. The Mole runs by the Park Grounds, and the 
 
 L
 
 146 NORBURY PARK. 
 
 distant hills of Norbury are seen from various parts of the 
 demesne. 
 
 Elm Bank, lying opposite, is a small but delightful 
 demesne adjoining the Church, now occupied by the 
 residence of R. F. Remington, Esq. These grounds have 
 been recently enlarged. 
 
 But we must hasten on to describe that which is indeed 
 the noblest addition to the beauties of the neighbourhood 
 of Letherhead, and which will make a visit to this Village 
 of immense interest. 
 
 NORBURY PARK AND THE MObE. 
 
 A sweet days enjoyment may be gained, at an easy rate 
 of expense either in time or money, by a ride on the rail, 
 and thence two miles of pedestrianism to Norbury Park. 
 If a man be a fisher, he takes his rod, for there the Mole 
 throws up many a ripple prophetical of a finny victim to 
 be had below. 
 
 We will fancy him rising early and proceeding by the 
 first train to Letherhead, and in accordance with one 
 derivation of its name, letting Lethe preside and banish 
 the dusty ledger from his mind. A beautiful bright 
 morning in the beginning of the month of May will suit 
 his purpose when the sky is of that soft and tender blue 
 which it possesses in the youthful year, ere the ardent 
 rays of summer have dyed it with a deeper tint ; and yet 
 when nothing of that misty faintness of hue is present 
 which foretells that the bright eye of heaven may be filled 
 with tears before night falls in.
 
 NORBURY PARK. ' 147 
 
 The sky is clear though it is soft ; and the light white 
 clouds, that, winged by the breeze, speed quickly over the 
 wide expanse, giving to the earth no trace of their passing, 
 except the fleeting shadows which follow them, make 
 each spot as they leave it look more bright and beautiful 
 than before. Every object tells of the presence of the 
 sweet maiden spring. 
 
 The light green of Ihe trees, woods and fields, speak of 
 freshness untouched by the burning torch of summer, 
 reminding of the days of our early youth, ere manhood 
 and the worlds experience come over its lithesome dreams, 
 withering while they ripen, and snatching whole bouquets 
 of lifes early charm away. The wild chorus of the winged 
 choristers of the grove, singing their early hymns to 
 heaven, seem a song of praise for the removal of dark 
 winter, and the return of brightness to the earth. Now 
 they make the whole air vocal with their bursting happi- 
 ness and drink it in refreshed by the infusion of their song ; 
 and is there not some busy hum of animated being every- 
 where, that rises up from hill and dale, and wood, that joins 
 with their songs as they float upon the breeze ; and is 
 there not a response from your bosom, dear tourist, that 
 tells there are buds of happiness there, which revive and 
 swell, by contact with the atmosphere that breathes around, 
 all speaking of refreshed existence. 
 
 The primrose and the butter-cup, the oxlip and the tiny 
 daisy paint the fields blossoms hang upon many a tree, 
 and perfumes less rich than Arabia, but more refreshing 
 by far, shake their light wings in the morning air and 
 sprinkle it with balm. 
 
 It has been said and well said, that scarce any language 
 
 L 2
 
 148 NORBURY PAEK. 
 
 can be found to do justice to the glorious prospect com- 
 manded by the hills of Norbury. 
 
 Ascend then on such a morning as that which we have 
 recommended, such a morning as that when the heart 
 opens, and when every vein thrills with glad existence. 
 When you feel, as it were, the impress of Deity on the 
 mornings breath, hear Him in the voice of creation, see 
 Him in 'His works, and have an unclouded view of the 
 glorious canopy He has raised. How lovely the scene ! 
 Your heart must chronicle a description of it, from the 
 hearts own feelings. 
 
 See that wide open park, the rich thick grass spread 
 over every slope and lawn, like the velvet robe upon a 
 maidens form, it seems to rise and swell with conscious 
 beauty. Tread on it, oh how luxurious ! so rich and thick, 
 its elasticity almost raises the feet that press it. On its 
 swelling bosom the fine old trees scattered in clumps or 
 grouped in wild disorder, or gathered together in broad 
 sweeping woods, cast a deep shadow, denned and clear, 
 contrasting more beautifully the vivid green and the glossy 
 softness of each. It is the beech, the yew, the walnut 
 and the oak, that principally add their glory to that park. 
 Such lordly trees as well have claimed high station in the 
 forest. 
 
 Look at those yews, perhaps unequalled in girth and 
 size, their age must be immense. Here is one twenty-three 
 feet in its circumference, with five huge limbs, themselves 
 worthy children of a giant, one of them measures nine feet, 
 another nearly the same. The yew is more associated in 
 our minds with the village churchyard, where its sombre 
 green, its slow growth and decay, harmonises well with
 
 NORBT7RY PARK. 149 
 
 the feelings produced by the locality. Gray has painted 
 in few words this kindred association 
 
 " Beneath the rugged elms, the yew-trees shade, 
 Where heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap, 
 Each in his narrow cell for ever laid, 
 The rude forefathers of our hamlet sleep." 
 
 But here it meets us as a fit ornament to the forest, and 
 enhances the scenery thereof, making as it does, so 
 beautiful a background for trees with lighter foliage. 
 
 And those glorious oaks and those mighty beeches 
 beeches, which Evelyn speaks of as " the handsomest of 
 forest trees" they all, especially the yews, carry you so 
 far back into such wondrous scenes of the old worlds 
 history ; these stood when monuments built to last were 
 reared, which now are crumbled to the dust. Between 
 them many a glade stretches and many a lovely lawn ap- 
 pears ; and mark how, when the trees break away, a wide, 
 noble extended view presents itself, showing a rich fertile 
 country beyond, full of green hedgerows and fields broken 
 and diversified by little hamlets, and the villages of Mickle- 
 ham and Letherhead in the distance, all mingling an air of 
 wealth, prosperity and living gladness with the bright 
 sweetness of the morning and the calm tranquility of the 
 park itself. 
 
 And now get out your fishing tackle and descend to the 
 river Mole; 12 acres of the park are devoted to this 
 stream ; 95 seres by meadow and pasture land are filled ; 
 110 by woods and plantations, and about 300 by the park 
 and pleasure grounds ; in all 527 acres. It may not be 
 amiss if, while we are strolling towards the river, I tell 
 you something about the place and its owners.
 
 150 NORBURY PARK. 
 
 It derives its name from its situation on the North side of 
 the parish of Mickleham, in which this manor is included. 
 In the Doomsday-Book it is stated to have been in the 
 possession of Oswold, a Saxon thane, in the reign of 
 Edward the Confessor. Afterwards the Earl of Gloucester 
 held it by the tenure of military service in 1315. In 
 succession it was held by the "VVymbledon family from 
 the year 1435 to the fourteenth year of the reign of 
 Henry VII., when it was assigned to Thomas Stydolf, 
 who had wedded Isabel, one of the co-heiresses of 
 John Wymbledon. His family resided here for many 
 generations, but there arising fault of issue male, the 
 estates were eventually sold to Anthony Chapman, Esq., 
 in 1766. 
 
 That gentleman, after having ruthlessly cut down almost 
 all the walnut trees which had for so many ages reared 
 their lordly heads, the glory of the park, sold Norbury in 
 1774, to William Lock, a man so highly distinguished for 
 the taste which seemed to reside in him and fill his whole 
 soul, that he became the subject of the poets praise. 
 Gilpin gives him this eulogy, 
 
 If taste, correct and pure, 
 Grounded on practice ; or, what more avails 
 Than practice, observation justly formed, 
 Of Nature's best example and effects, 
 Approve the landscape ; if judicious Lock 
 See not an error he would wish removed, 
 Then boldly deem thyself the heir of fame. 
 
 At that time fortunately the old house, which was most 
 injudiciously placed at the roadside on the lower side of 
 the park became ruinous, and (as might be supposed) 
 Mr. Lock chose the very best site that could be selected
 
 THE MOLE. 151 
 
 for a new erection. He placed the present mansion on 
 the crest of the hill opposite that where the old house 
 (now transformed into a farm yard) stood, a site which for 
 loveliness of situation and the splendour of the scenery it 
 commands is rarely surpassed. 
 
 Mr. Lock dying, Norbury was sold twice, and after- 
 wards became the subject of an exchange with the late 
 possessor, H. Sperling, Esq. He too was a great improver, 
 and though it would seem so little remained to be done, 
 he added to the lovely prospects by the removal of a chalk 
 hill, and made with considerable engineering skill a wind- 
 ing road which renders the house more easy of approach, 
 while it also diversifies the drive in a very charming 
 manner. A new bridge of three arches has taken the 
 place of the wooden bridge, and as it spans the Mole adds 
 considerable beauty to the scene. Norbury Park is now 
 in the occupation of T. Grissell, Esq. 
 
 And at last we have arrived at the river Mole. A 
 court beauty under the reign of the queen of rivers it 
 would seem. Just get out a green drake fly ; that will do 
 some execution on this stream. It is a fine river for 
 "jacks" a little earlier. You should then at least have a 
 minnow in your book. But now it is May, sweet May ! 
 I saw the waters in April so muddy that for days the 
 gentle stream could not shake off the vile sediment, and 
 then there was many a good basket of fish caught with 
 baits of various hinds ; the common worm is good, the 
 maggot is better. 
 
 It is considered most unsportsmanlike to use the minnow 
 for bait, but far better would it be to do so, and only keep 
 the larger fish, throwing back the smaller ones into the
 
 152 THE MOLE. 
 
 water for future capture. You may have a certain rule to 
 guide you as to the sized fish to put into your basket and 
 the size to cast away, as by having a scale marked on your 
 fishing rod you can measure your fish when caught. 
 
 Well, now, cast out your line, you have a respectable 
 cast, for here the river is broad, you can scarce cast your 
 line across it. Well, you must be a little patient, You 
 cannot expect to catch a fish the moment you throw in. 
 I'll just tell you about the Mole from this to its source, 
 and that will amuse you, and we will have a word about 
 fishing in general ; but keep a sharp look out, for the fish 
 here bite fiercely when they take. 
 
 The Mole is called so from the fact that it hides itself 
 in the earth, finding its way underground for a consider- 
 able distance, and rising again at Letherhead. But we 
 shall examine this phenomenon more particularly presently. 
 I see you are not a great proficient at the piscatory science. 
 Cast out very little line at first, perhaps about the length 
 of your rod, and then increasing by degrees, you will soon 
 be able to throw full across and with precision. Ah ! 
 now you have a fine fish; let him down the stream a 
 little. Now bring him close to the shore. Stay ! It is 
 safer to land him with the net. For this stream it is a 
 very excellent fish, exactly three pounds weight I find. 
 How do I know it is just three pounds ? I will tell you. 
 This inch measure which I have on the handle of my rod 
 for two feet up, has enabled me to measure his length, 
 and I find him to be nineteen inches long by ten inches in 
 girth ; and you will find that in that ratio exactly will be 
 his weight. A trout seventeen inches long by eight will 
 weigh two pounds, and so on, always supposing them to
 
 FISHING ON THE MOLE. 153 
 
 be well fed fish. This is in accordance, as you suppose, 
 with the mathematical law, that similar solids are to each 
 other in the triplicate ratio of one of their dimensions. 
 
 Now take another cast and I will proceed. 
 
 The river Mole its name derived as we said from its 
 habits (though some far fetch its derivation from the Latin 
 word molla, a mill, on account of the fact mentioned in 
 Doomsday-Book of there having been twenty places pos- 
 sessing mills upon its banks), receives its strength from a 
 number of small springs on the border of Sussex. 
 
 These, forming rivulets, meet at Gatwick in Surrey ; 
 and passing Horley, the Mole having received them into 
 her bosom, runs northward to Kinnersly Bridge. Then, 
 taking a north-westerly direction it reaches Betchworth, 
 and passing through its lovely vales in a meandering 
 course round the foot of Boxhill and under Burford 
 Bridge, it wends its hastening way and proceeds in a 
 winding channel through the beautiful Vale of Mickleham, 
 whence it glides on to form one of the brightest gems of 
 Norbury Park. 
 
 The fishing is here preserved, but it is not impossible to 
 obtain permission from the proprietor to gather some of 
 the finny treasures of its liquid mines, as is best proved 
 by our being here to day. Ah ! another strong pull ! 
 What fly is that? The alder-fly! Well, the alder I 
 always feel to be an excellent early fly. At most seasons 
 it appears in large quantities before the May-fly comes in. 
 When, however, the May-fly arrives it is the most killing 
 of all flies at this season. See, even now, what numbers 
 of these alder-flies are skimming the water ! See how 
 they leave the alder trees and sport in the bright sunshine,
 
 154 FISHING ON THE MOLE. 
 
 enjoying the pleasures of their brilliant though short-lived 
 existence ! 
 
 The alder leaf is nice and tender now. I like this tree ; 
 it seems to put out its beautiful dark leaves so joyously to 
 the sun, and gladdens so under the showers of heaven as 
 they fall. You have had your bottom line fairly carried 
 away ! Well ! I do not wonder at that. I saw that trout, 
 he was indeed a giant ; I saw him several times swallow- 
 ing down May-flies, but I did not think your alder would 
 have coaxed him. That fellow will not probably be caught 
 again this season with the artificial fly ; and yet, I should 
 not wonder if even to-day he took the natural, he seemed 
 very hungry. 
 
 Lend me your rod a moment, since, in my position as 
 guide and historian of the river for you, I have brought 
 none, and I will put on a natural fly. Cruelty do you call 
 it ? Well you may say it is cruelty, but I do not entirely 
 agree with you in that ; nor do I entirely hold with him 
 who says, that a worm when trod upon feels as much pain 
 as when a giant dies. 
 
 The Great Creator has wonderfully adapted insects for 
 the destiny they have to fulfil, and the perils they are ex- 
 posed to. And if I said that insects felt scarce any pain 
 in mutilation or death, I think I should not be far wrong. 
 One single instance take a dragon-fly and put before him 
 honied water, and then while he drinks, cut off with a 
 sharp knife his entire body close to the wings, and with 
 the utmost composure he will still drink in the honied 
 stream, which, like Baron Munchausen's horse, but not 
 fabulously as that horse, passes in at one end and out at 
 the other ; careless of this he drinks on still and will live 
 sometimes for days, until at last he gently bleeds to death.
 
 THE MOLE. 155 
 
 Isaac Walton says " In hooking your frog, treat him as 
 though you loved him." I cannot bear hooking a frog, 
 he is so like some acquaintances of mine with long legs, 
 and their arms a-kimbo with arrogance, while they have 
 such poor pitiful, foolish looking faces ; but a fly seems a 
 different thing. 
 
 Well, we will now try master trout again. " Sore in 
 the mouth," you say "Wont take anything now." Well, 
 we shall see. The fact is, fishes do not easily get sore in 
 the mouth. They are by no means the sensitive creatures 
 that the warmer blooded animals are. It cannot be 
 doubted that their nervous system is different, and cer- 
 tainly there are no nerves, as experiment will show, in the 
 cartalaginous part of their mouths where the hook usually 
 fixes itself. 
 
 A proof that a fish hooked cannot be a great sufferer is 
 in the fact, that often and often, a salmon, trout, or pike 
 has been known to take the natural fly, even though the 
 artificial was still hanging in his mouth. You can't 
 believe it ! A fact is not less a fact because you will not 
 believe it. Every long experienced fisherman will tell you 
 that the same thing which I relate has occurred to him 
 more than once in some form or another. Know, oh 
 unbeliever! that I have caught pikes with four or five 
 hooks in their mouths, and lines that they had broken 
 attached thereto. But never heed! you will gain ex- 
 perience of many curious things if you pursue a fishers 
 life. But you have broken the line of my narration. 
 
 I was tracing the path of the Mole. From this Park of 
 Norbury it glides along if " sullen," certainly beautiful, 
 to Letherhead, where a bridge of fourteen arches, as we
 
 156 THE MOLE. 
 
 have said, spans it. Here it is swelled by the accession 
 of a stream from Fetcham Mill, whose pond is self- 
 supporting, or rather fed from springs that bubble up 
 through the ground, similar to those in Mr. Torr's lake at 
 Ewell. It then passes behind the residence of a gentle- 
 man who with great liberality throws the river, without a 
 restriction open to the public all through his grounds 
 and meadows. Many a weary citizen has blessed the gift 
 which has enabled him to leave his plodding scene behind, 
 and enjoy a fishing hour in Letherhead meadows. 
 
 It then passes through Randall's Park, the residence of 
 R. Henderson, Esq., Lord of the Manor, and at Cobham 
 is crossed by two pretty bridges. It now wanders " va- 
 riously" through scenes of surpassing beauty, ere it 
 suddenly breaks into a most uninteresting country by 
 Esher, where it is clasped to the bosom of its quondam 
 suitor, Old Father Thames. 
 
 The reason I call him its quondam suitor is, on ac- 
 count of Dray ton's beautiful episode, in which he writes 
 down Old Thames as captivated by the charms of this soft 
 and gentle stream, but the young river's mother refuses to 
 let her become the " old man's darling." The young river 
 herself, like many young ladies, just because she was 
 opposed, used double exertions to obtain her wishes ; but 
 we had better quote the poet himself; the passage occurs 
 in his Poly Olbion. 
 
 The Medway was his affianced bride, while many rivers 
 woed his glance as he glided on his way towards his 
 promised one, 
 
 "But as they thus, in pomp came sporting on the shole, 
 'Gainst Hampton Court he meets the soft and gentle Mole,
 
 THE MOLE. 157 
 
 Whose eye so pierced his breast, that seeming to foreslow 
 The way which he, so long, intended was to go, 
 With trifling up and down, he wandereth here and there ; 
 And that he in her sight transparent might appear, 
 Applied himself to fords, and setteth his delight 
 On that which most might make him gracious in her sight." 
 His parents wishing to prevent any ill effects on their son 
 from the charms of this soft and gentle river, endeavour 
 to make him " pass on " 
 
 " But Thames would hardly on : oft turning back to show 
 
 From his much-loved Mole, how lothe he was to go." 
 Holmesdale, like many mothers, had her own idea of her 
 daughter's worth, and opposed the match strenuously, 
 perhaps more on account of Thames' loose morals than 
 from any objection on the score of wealth, for Thames 
 was an elder son, and in this view a decidedly eligible 
 match : 
 
 " But Mole respects her words as vain and idle dreams, 
 Compared to that high joy to be beloved of Thames, 
 And headlong holds her course his company to win, 
 But Holmesdale raised hills to keep the straggler in. 
 That of her daughter's stay she need no more to doubt, 
 Yet never was there help but love could find it out." 
 And then we are told the full and true account, reason 
 and philosophy of the Swallows, which but for this might 
 have puzzled philosophers to the end of the world. 
 " Mole digs herself a path, by working night and day 
 (According to her name to show her nature right), 
 And underneath the earth for three miles space doth creep 
 Till gotten out of sight, far from her mothers keep, 
 Her fore-intended course the wanton nymph doth run ; 
 As longing to embrace old Tame' and Isis" son." 
 Whether the marriage was a happy one or not history
 
 158 THE MOLE. 
 
 does not tell, or whether there was a marriage at all, but 
 at all events Thames must have led a life with her, for 
 she seems to have had a sullen temper that most devilish 
 of all tempers, which makes a man a torment to himself 
 and a wretched, miserable, contemptible pest to society 
 if Milton be right when he calls her, " The sullen Mole 
 that runneth underneath." 
 
 Thompson and Dodsley also immortalize the maiden or 
 wife, whichever she was at the lime she waked their muse ; 
 but Spencer has a fanciful mention of this river, which 
 argues that either Father Thames ruled himself by Eastern 
 rather than British law, or that the Medway was his first 
 wife, and afterwards the Mole ; for in his own beautiful 
 poetry he pictures the Medway giving her hand and heart 
 to Thames, and the Mole with other rivers guests at the 
 marriage feast ; however 
 
 What ! was it the poetry or the flies that have attracted 
 to my line ? There was a nibble. Ha ! there is a bite. 
 He has taken, and a large fellow he is too ! Now for it ! 
 Take the landing net ! How he pulls ! In with him ! 
 So ! Why, verily, it is your voracious friend ; look at the 
 line hanging from his lips. Can you now believe that 
 strange tale of mine as you called it, that a trout with an 
 artificial fly fixed in his mouth may shortly after take the 
 natural ? 
 
 It is, indeed, a most curious fact, but often verified by 
 actual experience, that, if possible, fish that have been 
 hooked by the artificial fly, will be even more voracious 
 after the natural in a brief time afterwards ; and only, I 
 think, to be accounted for by the supposition that the fish 
 was interrupted in his meal by the first shock of the rod,
 
 THE SWALLOWS. 159 
 
 but that his short digression increased the force of his 
 hunger, while the wound was after a short time forgotten, 
 or from the nerveless nature of the cartalaginous tissue of 
 the mouth scarcely felt. 
 
 But again to resume my history of the Mole. We were 
 speaking of the Swallows a while ago, which is the name 
 given to an extraordinary disappearance of the waters of 
 this river for considerable distances of its course, though 
 it seems somewhat of an exageration of Camden's when 
 he talks of the inhabitants of Surrey " being able to boast 
 a bridge that feeds several flocks of sheep." The Swallows 
 may be seen, especially in dry summers, at work in two 
 deep pools adjoining the Fridley meadows, and there you 
 may hear the water distinctly rushing into some hollows 
 underneath. The chalk districts of England abound more 
 or less with such hollows. 
 
 In the Mole- Swallows the return of winter brings back 
 the water, and then the peculiar nature of this phenomenon 
 is less evident. There are, however, different opinions on 
 the nature of the disappearance of these waters. While 
 some are fully confident that the waters sink by open 
 channels into the bosom of the earth ; others think that 
 there are no regular tunnels underground, but that the 
 water merely spreads its whole body so thinly over the 
 ground as to be scarcely perceptible, sinking into a soft 
 soil. Though this supposition now largely prevails, yet 
 it will not account for the gurgling sounds emitted at 
 times when the river is low. 
 
 Defoe in his work entitled, " A Tour through the whole 
 Island of Great Britain," tells a curious tale of the dam- 
 ming up of the Mole by a party of gentlemen, whose event
 
 160 DEFOE ON THE MOLE. 
 
 was that " in about two nights and a day, exclusive of the 
 time they took in making the dams, the water sunk all 
 away in the field, and the fish being surrounded were 
 caught, as it were, in a trap ; and the purchase fully re- 
 compensed their labour, for the like quantity of fish, great 
 and small, he believes was never taken at once in this 
 kingdom out of so small a river. 
 
 I remember seeing a grand instance of this kind of 
 fishing at Brussels about 1858, when the Royal Ponds 
 were drained and every inhabitant of their deeps laid bare 
 to the view. This operation takes place by a statute once 
 in every seven years, and the fish then taken were valued 
 to the Royal Treasury at the immense sum of 40,000/. 
 They were quickly transferred to every market that was 
 available for their sale. The sight was one that never 
 could be forgotten. 
 
 The evening is now drawing on apace, the fishermans 
 success has been various, according to the multitudinous 
 little reasons for his failure, or the ascendency of his happy 
 star. 
 
 Trout fishing has ever been a favourite amusement with 
 the good, the witty, and the wise, and I dare say, in spite 
 of the whining lamentations of the unsuccessful, or the risk 
 of incurring censure from the over sensitive and ultra- 
 humane, that the lover of this sport, if success attend his 
 efforts, will confess that he knows nothing more delightful 
 than a day's trout fishing, especially when he can choose 
 the stream and the situation, and taking into account that 
 the fish are in a neck or nothing humour for rising. I 
 refer in this entirely to fly-fishing. Certainly the minnow 
 is a noble bait, but it is not so purely classical or etherial
 
 FISHING ON THE MOLE. 161 
 
 as the tiny artificial fly; the fabrication of which even, 
 possesses a charm and demands the exercise of skill. This 
 is trebly the case at the heart gladening season of the year 
 when Nature's voice, speaking in soft southern breezes, 
 reclothes the meadows with robes of velvet green and 
 golden flowers; and there are awakened in the young 
 leaved woods and glades sweet songs which speak felicity 
 and love. 
 
 Still every day must have its ending, and between the 
 scenery that has charmed our eyes and the fresh air that 
 has expanded our lungs, the healthy feelings of our 
 stomachs have arisen to such a pitch, that to prevent open 
 rebellion they must receive their demands, therefore let us 
 away from these happy retreats. 
 
 There can be but one opinion as to where we shall 
 dine. It will, indeed, be a late dinner, but dine we must, 
 and at the Swan, in Letherhead, it must be, if we wish 
 pleasantly to conclude. This excellent Hotel is well 
 situate for tourist or fisherman. It is kept by Mr. Moore, 
 who is most civil and attentive to his patrons his viands 
 are, in every department, of the best ; and his beds such 
 as scarcely require a wearied traveller to prove them com- 
 fortable resting places. There every thing can be learned 
 regarding the pleasantest routes for the morrow ; or fresh 
 impulse given by a comfortable early meal for a new attack 
 upon the finny tribe. A basket can be sent on with a 
 complete bankside dinner, or a vehicle procured to carry 
 you on to any point you may desire. 
 
 If the tourist do what is both wise and pleasant, he will 
 bring down the whole family here, nurse, children and all ; 
 Mrs. Moore will take special care of them in her most 
 
 M
 
 162 END OF FISHING DAY. 
 
 comfortable family apartments, and every one can then 
 have a share in paterfamilias' enjoyment. And what with 
 good humour, and what with good air, health and appetite 
 will he the order of the day. 
 
 I always like to provide for my retreat, a good general 
 always does ; and if the weather prove unpropitious, retreat 
 I say to the Swan ; there ruminate on what you have seen 
 of Nature's beauties, and be thankful to God for having so 
 beautified the world of your habitation ; and you will in 
 the contemplation of Him and of His handiwork, receive 
 the highest enjoyment man's nature is capable of. 
 
 And happy shall we be, if, gratified by yo\ir spring visit 
 to the gentle Mole you have imbibed enough of the 
 witchery of its scenery, and enough experienced the fruit- 
 ful character of its streams, to cause you to make the 
 Scotch bard's lay your own. 
 
 "Though we maun follow wi the lave 
 
 (Grim death he heucks us a) 
 
 We'll have anither fishing bout 
 
 Before we're ta'en awa. 
 
 Ay, we will try those streams again 
 
 When summer suns are fine, 
 
 And throw the flies together yet, 
 
 For the day's of auld lang syne !"
 
 BANSTEAD. 
 
 163 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HE pretty Village of Banstead lies about 
 three miles from Epsom at the South. The 
 Downs which separate it from Epsom, are 
 called as commonly Banstead, as Epsom 
 Downs. We shall follow the common de- 
 signation and call them the Downs of 
 Banstead. The range of Chalk hills, which 
 form the prominent feature here, extend 
 into Kent. 
 
 The general Manor of Bansted or Ban- 
 estede, has a place and a name in Dooms- 
 day-Book, which, as we have quoted in 
 other instances, we may not omit in this. 
 
 " Richard (de Tonbridge) holds Benes- 
 tede of the Bishop (of Baieux). Alnod or Alnoth held it 
 of King Edward ; and it was then assessed at 29 hides, 
 now at 9| hides. There is a church, and seven bondmen ; 
 and a mill (probably worked by horses, as windmills were 
 not then used in England, and no water power existed). 
 In Southwark, one house valued at 40 pence belongs to 
 this manor, and Alnoth held a mansion in London per- 
 taining to the demesne, which Adam Fitz-Hubert now 
 holds of the Bishop. The whole manor, in the time of 
 King Edward, was valued at IW., &c. Gosfrid holds under 
 Richard." 
 
 x 2
 
 164 BAN8TEAD. 
 
 There are seven Manors in this parish notwithstanding 
 its comparatively small size. We shall refer to them in 
 order and first, Bansted. Before the reign of Henry I., 
 this manor was sold to Tirel de Maniers, by Richard de 
 Tonbridge ; and his daughter married the Earl of Salisbury, 
 Avhose grandson was one of the Barons who opposed the 
 proceedings of King John. 
 
 To pass on to the times of Henry III., the Earl Hubert 
 who was his minister held these estates and built a man- 
 sion here, of which some remains still exist. Subsequently 
 the manor became vested in the crown, part of the estate 
 was given to Margaret the Queen of Edward L, and 
 Philippa the Consort of Edward III. At the last, King 
 Henry VIII. settled it on Katherine of Aragon, who had 
 been married to his brother, and whom, on that brothers 
 death, Henry wedded himself. She granted a lease of it 
 to Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington. 
 
 This Sir Nicholas Carew was a man whose life was 
 eventful, and whose end was tragic. He was introduced 
 to the Court when very young, and became a very great 
 favourite with the capricious Henry VIII. He shared his 
 sports, and masques and tournaments, indeed, soon was a 
 constant companion of the King, who descended to the 
 greatest familiarity with his favourites. In 1523, he 
 became Master of the Horse and Knight of the Garter ; 
 but alas for gratitude, it seems but little to dwell in 
 Courts! no surprise to me, for the selfishness of the 
 monarch will scarce foster real love in the subject, and 
 the courtier is alm&st forced by his position to be the most 
 selfish of men. Suffice it to say, Sir Nicholas yielded to 
 the fascinations of Henry Pole (Lord Montague), the
 
 SIE NICHOLAS CAREW. 165 
 
 Marquis of Exeter, and others, being of that everfruitful 
 source of conspiracy the Catholic religion, to join in an 
 attempt for overthrowing the government of King Henry, 
 and placing Cardinal Pole upon the throne. 
 
 This conspiracy, well known to the student of English 
 history, resulted in the execution of all the conspirators. 
 Sir Nicholas underwent the last office of the law in 1539, 
 at the age of forty-three, when Holinshed tells us he made 
 " a goodly confession both of his fault and superstitious 
 faith." Of course his lands reverted to the Crown. 
 
 Sir Francis Carew, his only son, was in the household 
 of Queen Mary, and a favourite page of hers. When he 
 came of age he obtained through her favour the restitution 
 of his ancestral inheritance, when he erected a magnificent 
 mansion at Beddington, in which he had the honour of 
 being twice visited by Queen Elizabeth, 1599-1600. The 
 Manor of Banstead, part of this inheritance, was restored 
 with the other parts, and descended to Sir Nicholas 
 Racket Carew, who sold the manor to Rowland Frye, Esq. 
 whose nephew succeeded him, and from whom again his 
 nephew, William Morris, who took the name of Frye, 
 received the inheritance. This gentleman left the estate 
 to his daughter, who married Captain Spencer, who died, 
 and the widow now holds the manor. The house called 
 Banstead Park is now occupied by J. Maudesley, Esq., of 
 the great engineering firm of Maudesley & Son. 
 
 The Manor of Burgh was sold in 1614 to Christopher 
 Buckle, Esq., son of Sir Cuthbert Buckle, who was Lord 
 Mayor of London 1593. It is now in possession of the 
 Reverend William Lewis Buckle, who is also, both Rector 
 and Vicar. He possesses also the Manor of Little Hergh.
 
 166 BANSTEAD CHUBCH. 
 
 The Manor of Perrotts as it is called, was purchased, in 
 1517, from Alexander Charlwood, by the family of Lam- 
 bert, whose successors have held it ever since and in whose 
 possession it now is. 
 
 Lastly, the ancient Manor of Tadworth, of which men- 
 tion is made in the Doomsday-Book, as having been in 
 two parts, North and South. This manor is now in the 
 possession of Mrs. Hudson. 
 
 The Church, which is dedicated to All Saints, is situated 
 on high ground, and its spire is visible from considerable 
 distance. This spire is very much out of the perpendicular 
 and has not been otherwise within the memory of man ; 
 the tower, however, which contains a fine peal of bells, is 
 a massive and well-built pile. This church is remarkable 
 for the beauty of its pointed arches. It consists of a nave, 
 north and south aisles, and north and south chancels. 
 
 The East Window has stained glass with the arms of 
 the Buckle family dated 1610. There is a handsome altar- 
 piece of carved oak. The old carved oak pews are very 
 curious. 
 
 The Monuments and Inscriptions are many. Those of 
 the Lambert family commencing with that of Sir Daniel 
 Lambert, who was Lord Mayor of London in 1741, and 
 that of Dame Mary Lambert, relict of the above, are of 
 well wrought architectural design. 
 
 We shall particularize but one other, which is of ancient 
 date. It is very simple but interesting ; its inscription is 
 as follows : 
 
 " Here lyeth interred ye body of Ruth Brett, the late wife of 
 
 George Brett, citizen and goldsmith of London, and daughter of 
 
 Mr. Edward Lambert, of this parish ; she departed this lyfe the 
 Sixt day of Nov., A.D. 1647."
 
 MONUMENTS, ETC. 
 
 4 Behold the mirrour of her sex and kind, 
 Nature adorned her frame, virtue her mind ; 
 Yet could they not retain her wasting breath, 
 Nor free her from the fatal stroke of death ; 
 Her time is spent, the splendid sun is set, 
 In whose bright spirit all the Graces met ; 
 What good so' ere in woman kind was found, 
 In this good woman richly did abound ; 
 Faith, Hope, and Charity her actions blest ; 
 Each in her soule was a most welcome guest. 
 Life wrought her death, but death to her brought life, 
 Such was the fate of this rare virtuous wife. 
 
 National Schools were erected in 1858 by subscription. 
 They are managed by a committee, of which the Rector is 
 chairman. About eighty children receive education. The 
 master is Mr. Vivian. 
 
 The Rectory House adjoins the Church. Rev. William 
 Lewis Buckle, A.M., instituted 1832, resides here. 
 
 The Church Registers are of unusually ancient date, 
 being nearly perfect from the year 1546. 
 
 The extensive demesne of Nork is in the possession of 
 the Rt. Hon. Earl of Egmont who resides frequently here. 
 The house, one of whose wings is a chapel, is an elegant 
 mansion standing on a richly wooded eminence. Beautiful 
 views are obtained of a great extent of country, and the 
 timber is of good growth. Rich meadows interspersed 
 with woodlands, and hedgerows of the pink and white 
 hawthorn stretch away towards the north, and the extent 
 of the plantations render it an agreeable and handsome 
 summer residence.
 
 168 BESIDENCES OF GENTRY. 
 
 Banstead Park, lately occupied by Horatio Kemble, Esq., 
 and now in the occupation of J. Maudesley, Esq., is an 
 elevated residence possessing fine views; the principal 
 front looks towards the west and is surrounded by lawns, 
 paddocks and woodlands. At the rear is an extensive 
 wood. 
 
 Banstead Place, the property of Capt. W. H. L. Fitz Roy, 
 is an excellent house surrounded by about two hundred 
 acres of ground, and well wooded. And lastly we would 
 mention Garretts Hall, the seat of John Lambert, Esq., 
 which partakes of the advantages which the elevated posi- 
 tion of this part of the country gives, in fine views and 
 healthy bracing air. Bergh House is not at present in- 
 habited. 
 
 There is a comfortable Inn much frequented by Lon- 
 doners, who here attain a fine healthy bracing change. It 
 is picturesquely situate and commands an extensive view 
 towards the north. Mr. Richardson, the landlord, has 
 adapted his arrangements to meet the requirements of 
 visitors, and for cleanliness, regularity and every attention, 
 this house cannot be surpassed. The gardens are laid 
 out with taste, and seats placed in the best situations for 
 the enjoyment of the lovely prospect. 
 
 The Village of Banstead, placed as it is amidst most 
 beautiful scenery and drives, forms the most pleasing 
 contrast that can be imagined to the smoky and confined 
 region of the great city. 
 
 It seems to have been at one time of much greater 
 extent than it is at present ; old foundations are frequently 
 struck upon in several fields around, which have given 
 rise to a tradition which I had from an old shepherd, that
 
 ROMAN REMAINS. 169 
 
 Banstead was once an extensive city ; but the great diffi- 
 culty of obtaining water at so great a height would render 
 this an improbable supposition, as beauty of situation 
 would have had a serious drawback in scantiness of the 
 supply of this most needful adjunct. 
 
 This tradition is probably a confusion of this place with 
 Woodcote, which is not far from Banstead. I mean the 
 Woodcote which lies near Croydon. .Evelyn speaks of it 
 when he says in letter to Toland, " I do not find you 
 have yet made your journey about Banstead, where was 
 the famous Woodcote of which you find mention in Mr. 
 Barton's notes upon Antoninus' Itinerary. There are to 
 this day Roman coins, urns, and bricks, &c., dug up by 
 the rustics." This Woodcote is in the parish of Bedding- 
 ton and close to Croydon. Numbers of urns and antique 
 relics, apparently of Roman origin, have been found, and 
 are every day still turning up whether by the deep plough- 
 ing of the team or the simple tilling of the garden. 
 
 The ancient road called the Stane Street road, which 
 crosses this country from north to south even to the sea, 
 passed by Woodcote, near to Banstead, and passing Ash- 
 tead proceeded to Guildford. Any such place so near 
 Banstead will make it worthy of a visit from the antiquary. 
 
 Camden and other antiquaries agree in fixing the station 
 which Ptolemy calls Noiomagus, and Antoninus, as we 
 said Noviomagus at Woodcote. 
 
 Camden says, " here are evident traces of a small town 
 and several walls of flints, and the neighbours talk much 
 of its populousness and wealth and many nobles;" (just as 
 the peasantry will do). 
 
 Gale, in his Commentary on Antoninus, conceives how-
 
 170 EP80M KACES. 
 
 ever the tradition of its importance to be well founded, 
 because of " foundations of houses, tracts of streets, hewn 
 stones, tiles, and above all, the number of wells here met 
 with, and some of an extraordinary depth." 
 
 Horsley also in his Britannia Romana considers Wood- 
 cote to be the site of the city of Noviomagus. 
 
 Suffice it that such heroes of antiquarian lore have 
 fought for their various opinions, and so many held for 
 this city ground so near Banstead. It will be, with these 
 books in the hand of the tourist, of Camden, Gale, Barton 
 and Horsley, somewhat like enchanted ground, which you 
 need but people with the mail-clad Belgic warrior, as he 
 stood, perhaps, on this very spot to scan the country round 
 in search of friend or foe. 
 
 EPSOM RACES. 
 
 Although the tenor of our mind and the object of our 
 book is by no means in the path of horse -racing, we can 
 scarcely pass by that which forms a chief characteristic of 
 Epsom, namely, its Races, which occur on what in old 
 documents is called Banstead Downs, but more correctly 
 the Downs of Epsom. Epsom Down is, in the times of 
 spring and summer, perhaps the most lovely spot within 
 reach of London, and it is by no means necessary to sup- 
 pose that every one who goes there is influenced by the 
 expectation or desire of seeing a race. The chief races 
 occupy very few moments of time, and the newspapers of 
 the next day would give a far better idea of the incidents
 
 EPSOM KACES. 171 
 
 of these; but the Downs themselves have an unwonted 
 charm. 
 
 To the hard working Londoner any country scene is 
 refreshing, but the views around the course are among the 
 most lovely in all England. If there be the beauties of an 
 azure sky to canopy the masses of foliage and the green 
 turf, a shining sun, with the leaves of the forest fluttering 
 in the breeze, and the glad birds singing their joyous 
 notes, one can wander there alone and acknowledge the 
 gentle empire of nature. 
 
 But when it is the time of the great Olympic gala, then 
 it is acknowledged that the presence of nearly 200,000 
 people massed closely together, makes, with the surround- 
 ing scene, one of the most wonderful sights the world has 
 to show. 
 
 The student of nature and the student of human 
 character will find abundant material to point a moral or 
 to adorn a tale. We will not enter into the subject as to 
 whether the breed of horses, which makes England so 
 remarkable, could or could not be obtained and maintained 
 by less objectionable modes of culture. We believe it 
 just as possible that she would excel in her horses as she 
 does in her various cattle, through the pride, strength and 
 energy of the national character, were horse-racing for 
 ever abolished. But since she chooses this mode she will 
 have her way ; and until our Bishops put in such a pro- 
 test as will do away with the assertion that they give tacit 
 encouragement to the race of the Derby-Day, we are not 
 likely to see racing changed for more harmless modes of 
 encouraging the breed of swift horses. 
 
 We will simply quote from Brayley's History of Surrey
 
 172 EPSOM HACES. 
 
 his words regarding the Epsom Races. He says, " We 
 have no precise account of the origin thereof ; but there 
 is a vague yet not improbable tradition, that it was coeval 
 with the residence of James I. at the Palace of Nonsuch 
 in the early part of the seventeenth century. They would 
 seem to have been continued at irregular intervals, and 
 Clarendon acquaints us that in the year 1648, a meeting 
 of the Royalists was held on Banstead Downs under the 
 pretence of a horse race. Since the year 1 730 these races 
 have been continued annually; but prior to 1779 when 
 the Oaks Stakes were established, the prizes were confined 
 to plates, which were run for in heats, the common prac- 
 tice of that period." 
 
 The Spring Races are held annually, on Tuesday, 
 Wednesday, Thursday and Friday immediately before 
 Whitsuntide, except when Easter -Monday occurs in 
 March, in which case they are held in the first or second 
 week following Whitsuntide. The principal stakes run 
 for on the Epsom Course at the Summer Meeting, are the 
 Derby, which derives its name from a great patron of the 
 turf, the late Earl of Derby ; and the Oaks, which is so 
 called from "the Oaks," the seat of the same Earl, in 
 Surrey. 
 
 On the Derby-Day, Parliament does not sit, all business 
 seems suspended, and there is one vast acknowledged, 
 though not enforced holiday. Wonderful speed has been 
 attained on this course the famous horse Eclipse ran 
 here, Mr. Merry's Thormanby the winner of the Derby of 
 the present year arrived at scarcely a less speed to the goal. 
 The Grand Stand, which can contain, we hear, in its various 
 floors, nearly 5,000, is the lucrative property of Mr.
 
 EPSOM RACES. 173 
 
 Dorling, of Epsom. The Queen attended the Derby in 
 1840. So intent seem all, who can by any means reach 
 Epsom on a Derby-Day, on attaining their ends, that it 
 is doubted whether, even the invasion of our shores, if 
 that improbable possibility should come to pass at the 
 period of that remarkable meeting, would interfere with 
 the exhibition of this great festival. 
 
 The Stewards of the Course for the year 1860 were 
 The Duke of Beaufort; The Hon. Admiral Rous; The Earl 
 of Portsmouth ; Arthur Heathcote, Esq. ; C. H. Carew, Esq. 
 
 The Judge, Mr. J. F. Clark. 
 
 The Clerk of the Course, Mr. Henry Dorling.
 
 174 
 
 CHE8SINGTOTC. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 HESSINGTON, though a distinct parish, 
 is ecclesiastically joined with that of Mai- 
 don. It is bounded on the South by 
 Epsom; on the North and East by Maldon; 
 and on the West by Stoke D'Abernon. 
 Beautiful for situation is its little hamlet, 
 for scarce can we call it a village. It is 
 very scattered but surrounded on all sides 
 by fine woodland. A small stream runs 
 purlingly near the Church, where an emi- 
 nence, evidently artificial, is situate, which, 
 from Roman coins having been found here, 
 seems to be stamped as one of the many 
 encampments with which Surrey abounds. 
 There were anciently two manors in Chessington, which 
 are mentioned in Doomsday-Book as having belonged 
 severally to Robert de Watvillc and Milo Crispin. One 
 was called Cisendone and the other Cisedune. 
 
 When the Monasteries were suppressed, Chessington 
 was granted by King Henry VIII. to Wm. Saunder, Esq., 
 in 1537, and after various changes, was conveyed by 
 Thomas Hatton, Esq., to Edward Northey, Esq., of 
 Epsom. At his death William Northey, Esq., became its
 
 DR. BURNEY, FATHER OF MADAME o'ARBLAY 175 
 
 possessor. He sold it to Joseph Smith Gosse, Esq., and 
 from him it descended to his son, Henry Gosse, Esq., who 
 now holds the manor. 
 
 We have little to speak of regarding the Village itself; 
 but the Church is possessed of some interest, and the 
 Seats and Parks around are beautifully situate on swelling 
 ground, and clothed with the most lovely timber. The 
 Church is a picturesque building, consisting of nave, 
 chancel, and south transept. A wooden turret rises from 
 the roof and contains two small bells. The porch is of 
 oak, which seems to have suffered from the effects of age. 
 The chancel is of a length nearly equal to that of the nave, 
 and possesses several small windows with stained glass. 
 There is here a small piscina of evident antiquity, and the 
 remains of what seems to have been a confessional, of 
 oaken lattice work, may still be seen. 
 
 The Monuments are few and very simple ; one of them 
 is interesting as being inscribed with lines written by the 
 late Dr. Charles Burney, father of Madame D'Arblay, so 
 well-known in the world of letters. It is to the memory 
 of Samuel Crisp, Esq., who died in 1783. She relates 
 that he had been, in Dr. Burney's early life, to him as 
 " guide, philosopher, and friend." The lines are as follow: 
 
 " Reader, this cold and humble spot contains 
 The much lamented, much revered remains 
 Of one whose wisdom, learning, taste and sense, 
 Good humoured wit, and wide benevolence, 
 Cheered and enlightened all this hamlet round, 
 Wherever genius, worth or want was found, 
 To few it is that courteous Heaven imparts 
 Such depth of knowledge, and such taste in arts ; 
 Such penetration and enchanting powers
 
 176 SEATS OF THE GENTRY. 
 
 Of brightening social and convivial hours. 
 
 Had he, through life, been blest by Nature kind 
 
 With health robust of body as of mind ; 
 
 With skill to serve and charm mankind so great, 
 
 In arts, in science, letters, church or state ; 
 
 His name the Nations Annals had enrolled 
 
 And virtues to remotest ages told." 
 The Registers have been kept since 1656. 
 
 The National School affords instruction to about seventy 
 boys and girls. It is situate upon the turnpike-road. 
 The Rev. William Chetwynd Stapylton, M. A. the Rev. 
 William Fursden, with Henry Gosse, Esq., are the patrons 
 of this school, and Mr. James Cooper has been master for 
 eighteen years. 
 
 The chief Gentlemen's Seats are, Harwell Court, belong- 
 ing to Mr. Cardus. The demesne is extensive and well- 
 wooded with the command of agreeably varied scenery. 
 The house is commodious and its situation well chosen. 
 Chessington Hall, called "The Hall ;" which is occupied by 
 George Chancellor, Esq. This was a large old-fashioned 
 country mansion encircled by trees, its dimensions are now 
 of more limited extent, but it is a most comfortable resi- 
 dence. Here Mr. Crisp, whose epitaph is quoted above, 
 lived for some time with his friend Christopher Hamil- 
 ton, Esq. Chessington Lodge, which is occupied by F. 
 Kelley, Esq. ; this is an agreeable residence near the 
 turnpike-road. And Strawberry Hill, the residence of 
 Samuel Clarke, Esq., who has greatly enlarged the house 
 and improved the demesne. 
 
 The pretty Parsonage is at present occupied by Rev. 
 William Fursden, the excellent curate of this parish, who 
 has resided here some years.
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 177 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 OTANY, from the Greek word "/Soravr;," 
 an Herb, is the science of simples, which 
 shows how to distinguish the several kinds 
 of plants and vegetables. But what is a 
 plant ? What is a vegetable ? These are 
 terms which the most ignorant presume 
 they understand, but which the most 
 learned are unable to define. Tell a Boor 
 that it is not easy to distinguish a vegetable 
 from an animal, and he will laugh you to 
 scorn. But show him certain polypes, and 
 certain animals, and he will, by silence at 
 least, confess "he knows not how it be." 
 
 " The badge of ignorance and the curse 
 of fools," is this self confidence which imagines it knows 
 all ; the wise alone confess to doubt, and those who know 
 the most are most ready to confess how little the wisest 
 know. Yet the wisest philosopher has failed to define a 
 plant, although the fact is no less patent 
 
 Similar is it through all the departments of nature. 
 Nature is full of facts, but replete with mystery, for the 
 God of nature is infinite, man finite ; the God of nature is 
 mysterious, but his facts true. What is more mysterious
 
 178 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 
 
 than the union of the body with the spirit which animates 
 it ? What more beyond our comprehension, than the 
 mode in which we live and move and have our being ? 
 Can we to the full understand the nature of the wind ? 
 but yet we know there is such a thing, when we behold 
 the hurricane rending down the habitations of men, or 
 tossing the waterwave wildly to the skies, We know that 
 the wind does exist when the soft evening breeze bends 
 these flowers, or is heard drawing forth the soft music of 
 the rustling trees. And yet the wisest philosopher cannot 
 tell what is the nature of this agent. So we say, here are 
 plants, we can show them before your eyes but cannot tell 
 what a plant or what a vegetable is. 
 
 Who that has wandered in sunny lands beneath Eastern 
 skies, or that has trodden the mountain steep where nature 
 seems to revel in her rugged loneliness. Who that has 
 wandered through the verdant lanes flanked by the flowery 
 bank, has not felt the charm that, from Eastern lands the 
 rich exotic, or at home, the wild flower of the field can 
 give? 
 
 But greater far his pleasure who wanders among these 
 scenes with a cultivated mind. A want is felt, which the 
 greatest charms cannot supply, to know each plant, and to 
 determine their different genera and species. Linnaeus 
 says, " that Order serves, like the clue of Ariadne, to 
 guide the otherwise wandering mind through the devious 
 mazes of natures labyrinth." In original, 
 
 " Pilum ariadneum est systema, sine quo Chaos." 
 The very trees, when classed, afford a greater charm. 
 
 Especially is this felt by the traveller as he passes 
 through countries abounding with the productions of
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 179 
 
 nature in almost every grade, from the most majestic and 
 beautiful, to the most diminutive and deformed. He longs 
 to know their history. 
 
 When amid the mountains of arid climes which arise in 
 awful sublimity, their summits piercing the clouds, his 
 wonder is excited ; but when he sees their sloping sides 
 adorned, as if by magic art, with the various species of 
 Melichrysum, Graphalium, &c., whose beautiful flowers of 
 red and silky white vary and enrich the scene; while 
 scented geraniums and pelargoniums, glowing with loveli- 
 ness, intermixed with numerous species of shrubby or 
 arborescent heath, compose a landscape of unrivalled 
 magnificence a scene over which the eye wanders with 
 delight from beauty to beauty, until fatigued with splen- 
 dour, it reposes perhaps on the light silvery foliage of the 
 Leucadendron argenteum, or the vigorous green of the 
 spreading oak, citizen of every land, or the still deeper 
 hue of the aspiring pine, he longs to look deeper into 
 these treasures. 
 
 At one hand he sees a gushing waterfall pouring its 
 transparent streams down the craggy ravine, at the other 
 a gentle purling brook meandering through meadows 
 adorned with every imaginable brilliancy of hue. But 
 whether in arid climes, or in mountainous regions where 
 the nimble but surefooted goat appears on the margin of 
 frightful eminences, and where the handsome elk bounds 
 by with gracefulness and speed, or at home where the 
 sweetest types of mingled richness and loveliness prevail ; 
 the pursuit of this entrancing study will add charms to 
 every prospect. The student of Botany will never want 
 in any scene objects of interest for his mind and pencil : 
 
 M 2
 
 180 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 
 
 not a corner of them all but abounds with slaves of his 
 pleasure, which the magic touch of his wand will cause 
 to arise. 
 
 Beautiful as exotics may be, the trees and flowers that 
 abound in our own varying clime are second to none as 
 matters of interest to those who are versed in this science 
 of Botany which has employed the noblest minds. 
 
 Take with you a small microscope or strong magnifying 
 glass, a pair of scissors, a needle, a flower pincers and a 
 pouch, and you are supplied with the weapons of your 
 gentle warfare. At home, a few quires of blotting paper 
 for the first preservation of specimens, and a hortus siccus 
 with a few stray leaves for notes, will form your library, 
 and if joined with some clear synopsis, such as Trentham's 
 Manual of the English Flora, a little mental exertion will 
 enable you to obtain the names of your gathered treasures. 
 
 We do not propose to attempt the Botany of this whole 
 district, which would require a volume, but merely to 
 point to a few of those species which seem more profusely 
 scattered here, especially those more peculiar to this 
 special neighbourhood, hoping thereby to lead those, 
 for whom we write, to become beginners in a science so 
 interesting and a pleasure so cheap. 
 
 Though the neighbourhood of Epsom may not be par- 
 ticularly rich in Orchidacese ; the admirers of this singular 
 and beautiful tribe of plants will derive a rich treat from 
 a careful search in the chalk pits around, where may be 
 found a goodly number thereof. Orchis conopsea here 
 abounds ; also Orchis Maculata and Orchis pyramidalis ; 
 the O. maculata occasionally is found with pure white 
 flowers. In Ewell meadows the Orchis mascula is pecu-
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 181 
 
 liarly beautiful with its purple flower. Here also may be 
 had Orchis Morio ; the Orchis Bifolia is of less frequent 
 occurrence. 
 
 At Epsom there is a great abundance of Ophrys An- 
 thropophora ; Ophrys muscifera ; Ophrys Monorchis ; and 
 on Banstead Downs, Neottia spiralis. Many other in- 
 teresting calcareous plants are to be found scattered over 
 this neighbourhood Chlora perfoliata ; Phyteuma orbi- 
 culare ; Ononis spinosa , Rhamnus catharticus ; Hippocrepis 
 comosa; Asperula cynanchica; Sanicula europsea; Juni- 
 perus communis ; Gentiana amarella ; and Ophioglossum 
 vulgatum, which abounds at Ewell. 
 
 On Epsom Downs are plentifully found, Campanula 
 rotundifolia ; Campanula hederacea ; Campanula hybrida ; 
 Campanula glomerata and Campanula Trachelium ; Mono- 
 tropa Hypopitys has been found at Ashtead Park, and 
 sparingly in the Chalk Pits. 
 
 Many interesting plants ase to be found on the gault 
 and clay at the foot of the chalk. At Durdans, Daphne 
 Laureola abounds, as well as Hypericum AndroscDmum. 
 At some distance from Ewell, near Maiden, the elegant 
 aquatic, Nymphcea alba has been found. The Chieranthus 
 Cheiri richly abounds, with its bright yellow blossoms, 
 about Epsom. Sedum acre, Parietaria officinalis and 
 Saxifriga tridactylites may be had in Ashtead and Norbury 
 Parks, and in Norbury Park is to be found Dipsacus 
 pilosus and the Listera Nidus-avis. Chenopodium Bonus 
 Henricus, dwells among the tombs in Chessington Church- 
 yard. Chenopodium olidum is also more sparingly found 
 at the foot of old walls. 
 
 The Chalk Pits around also contain more or less plenti-
 
 182 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 
 
 fully, Ophrys apifera near Letherhead, Isatis tinctoria at 
 Banstead and Epsom. Verbena officinalis ; Ecchium vul- 
 gare at Nonsuch ; and a few specimens have been found 
 of the Brachypodium pinnatum. Salvia pratensis ; Salvia 
 verbenaca and Cichorium Intybus ; Chryoplenium opposi- 
 tifolium and Chrysoplenium alternifolium ; Sedum re- 
 flexum and Sedum anglicum are all to be found in the 
 neighbourhoods of Epsom and Ashtead. 
 
 Hypericum pulchrum ; Hypericum Androsoemum are 
 found at Durdans. 
 
 Epsom Common and Ashtead Common will both amply 
 repay a careful investigation. The botanist will here find 
 Salix prostrata ; Pedicularis palustris ; Ononis spinosa ; 
 Juncus pilosus ; Juncus effusus ; Juncus squarrosus ; 
 Juncus glaucus and Juncus campestris. Geranium Phoeum 
 in the Common Fields, and on the Common again, Erica 
 Tetralis ; Calluna vulgaris and Erica cinerea ; Equisetum 
 Arvense; Chrysoplenium alternifolium; Chrysoplenium 
 oppositifolium and Antirrhinum Linaria. 
 
 We have not found a very numerous set of ferns here, 
 but among them are, Pteris aquilina ; Aspidium Filix 
 Mas; Athyrium Filix Femina; Asplenium Trichomanes, 
 and near Letherhead, Asplenium Ruta muraria. This 
 tribe are always attractive on account of their elegant and 
 curious forms although they are devoid of showy flowers, 
 and here may be made a beginning of the collection which 
 may receive almost unlimited additions from every part of 
 the kingdom. 
 
 On Epsom Downs is Cardamine pratensis, the Cuckoo 
 flower, or Ladies Smock ; and in the clear springs of 
 Ewell, Conferva Glutinosa ; and near, the Lythrum Sali-
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICE. 183 
 
 caria. The Lysimachia vulgaris and the Butomus um- 
 bellatus are. to be found nearer Maiden, the latter is 
 remarkable for its elegant umbels of rose coloured flowers. 
 
 Sparganium ramosum ; Alisma Plantago ; Potamogeton 
 crispum ; Potamogeton lucens ; Potamogeton gramineum ; 
 Potamogeton densum ; Potamogetum compressura and 
 Polamogetum natans are found at Ewell and Newtown 
 Wood. 
 
 On Epsom Common is also found, Genista anglica, 
 sometimes called Petty Whin. Convallaria majalis grows 
 abundantly in these parts, and Asperula odorata, and 
 Asperula cynachica ; Geranium dissectum ; Geranium 
 pratense ; Geranium Robertianum ; Geranium rotundi- 
 folium; Geranium sylvaticum; Geranium molle; Geranium 
 Phoeum, all may be freely obtained. 
 
 Viscum album, the common Mistletoe (so interesting to 
 the ladies) abounds ; Orobanche major, and various species 
 of Mentha. Cynoglossum sylvaticum at Norbury Park ; 
 Hyosycamus niger at Juniper Hall. TeucriumScorodonia; 
 Teucrium Chamoedrys ; the Euphorbia exigua, Euphorbia 
 Peplus, Euphorbia Amygdaloides ; the various Trifolia, 
 (minus, arvense, filiforme, repens, and medium) ; Orni- 
 thopus perpusillus ; Circsea lutetiana ; Hippuris vulgaris ; 
 Dipsacus Fullonum at Horton Place : Solanum nigrum ; 
 Solanum Dulcamara in Epsom hedges. Arenaria ser- 
 pyllifolia; Arenaria rubra; Anemone nemorosa; Oxalis 
 Acetosella ; Galeobdolon luteum ; Digitalis purpurea ; 
 Epilobiura palustre ; Epilobium hirsutum ; Centaurea 
 cyancus ; Centaurea nigra, are all found in this region, 
 while the Ulex europeus, and the Spartium scoparium 
 with their bright yellow blossoms, almost everywhere
 
 184 GEOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 contrast beautifully with the rich verdure or the green of 
 the forest trees. 
 
 A multitude of other plants might be mentioned, but 
 space will not permit. 
 
 This is by no means an attempt to give a perfect list, 
 but merely the result of a desire, that from these cursory 
 remarks, the stranger may be led to give attention to a 
 subject which, with the material Epsom and its neighbour- 
 hood can afford, will give him a wide field for pleasure, in 
 the prosecution of a study so innocent, so instructive, and 
 so pure. 
 
 The English names of plants are so very arbitrary, and 
 for each so various, that it would take many pages to 
 render them in all their variety; the attempt would there- 
 fore perplex rather than be a safe guide. It will be far 
 safer for the student to study their scientific nomenclature, 
 and treasure it in the mind first, and then gather, if he will, 
 the various English titles by which each is called. We 
 shall be satisfied if, with brevity, we have succeeded in 
 attaining correctness in our short detail. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 The Geology of this district presents scarcely any 
 striking and prominent features. Sutton, Cheam, Ewell, 
 and Epsom, lie on the edge of the upper chalk ; on the 
 north and west lie the usual beds of clay. 
 
 But, although scarcely anything novel may be perceived 
 in the external characteristics of this locality, the eager
 
 GEOLOGICAL NOTICE 185 
 
 geologist will find much to reward his toil. Very rare and 
 beautiful specimens of Ventriculite may be found in the 
 Chalk Pits of Sutton and Cheam. Mr. Toulmin Smith's 
 book would be an excellent guide in this department. 
 
 Many of the commonest flints will yield specimens for 
 the microscope if carefully manipulated. The Echinus, 
 Spatangus, Galerites, &c., abound. Bivalves in the chalk 
 are numerous. In general the character closely resembles 
 those from Northfleet. 
 
 1 have found very fine traces of Vertebroe in the chalk ; 
 some of which were of considerable size. Large pieces of 
 silicified wood are by no means unusual. 
 
 In all probability the collectors of geological specimens 
 would reap a rich harvest in the vicinity of Epsom, as 
 that district has never been thoroughly explored. 
 
 But not only in the chalk and flint might scientific 
 labour find its reward ; the clays would also give up much 
 to an earnest enquirer. If a line be drawn from Epsom 
 to Watford, it would cut across the huge tertiary bed 
 which lies in the bason of the chalk. North Cheam, 
 Maiden, part of Ewell and Epsom, lie on the margin. 
 
 It is to be deplored that proper advantage is not taken 
 of the opportunities which railway cuttings, artesian 
 borings, and similar operations offer. Ignorant laborers 
 will not preserve specimens for which there is little 
 demand, and although I have made many enquiries, I 
 have never obtained anything from the navvies on the 
 railway. I was surprised that the artesian boring at the 
 Maiden Station yielded nothing ; although I am informed 
 that well-sinkers in the neighbourhood have discovered 
 very beautiful specimens in the London clay. Builders
 
 186 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 and contractors might confer very great obligations on the 
 geologist by preserving any vestiges, and by imparting 
 information as to the locality and depth at which they 
 have been found. 
 
 A collection of specimens for the locality might easily 
 be formed at Epsom, and would be very desirable. 
 
 I believe that a very valuable species of clay used es- 
 pecially in the manufacture of fire-bricks exists in the 
 district ; it crops out on the edge of the chalk. 
 
 As a curiosity, Lyson quotes from Leland that, "Comp- 
 ton of London hath a Close by Codington in Southerei, 
 where the King buildeth (Nonsuch). In this Close is a 
 vaine of fine yerth, to make mouldes for goldesmithes and 
 casters of metale, that a loade of it is sold for a crowne of 
 golde. Like yerth to this is not found in all Englande." 
 
 On the whole, the locality would offer a rich unwrought 
 mine to the geologist, and whether he be inspired by the 
 scientific caution of Mantell, or the love of nature and 
 wider views of Kingsley, he would not be disappointed in 
 his hopes of obtaining reward. 
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 However rich Epsom and its vicinity may be in respect 
 of the subjects of the two subordinate kingdoms of Nature, 
 the Vegetable and the Mineral, there is every reason for 
 the supposition that those of the primary kingdom, the 
 Animal are quite as varied and extensive. 
 
 To the Lepidopterist and most probably to the Coleop- 
 terist also, a mine of entomological wealth is opened in
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 187 
 
 Newtown Wood, situated upon the borders of our Com- 
 mon, but in the parish of Ashtead. 
 
 True it is, and "pity 'tis, 'tis true," that entomologists and 
 gamekeepers differ so widely in their interpretation of the 
 game-laws, the glory and the boast of the English squire- 
 archy, and an almost inexhaustible provocative to the 
 erudition (^?) and eloquence which so distinguish the 
 Magisterial Magnates of our highly favoured country. 
 
 A gauze net, whether of white, green, orange, or blue, 
 is to the eye of the English gamekeeper a most conclusive 
 evidence, he needs no better or stronger proof, of the game 
 destroying propensities of the poacher. Still entomolo- 
 gists are not altogether exempt from blame, seeing that 
 in the ardour of their pursuit of a favourite study, they 
 are not always found so careful and so considerate in the 
 matter of fences, the disturbance of game and matters of 
 the like nature as they undoubtedly ought to be. 
 
 I will make bold to ask a favour of your Grace, said the 
 writer of these remarks to the venerable and benevolent 
 Primate who fills the archiepiscopal throne of Canterbury ; 
 " It does not in any respect concern the consecration of a 
 church but the capture of an insect. Your Grace's park 
 has been long noted as the habitat, to use the professional 
 language of entomologists, of a peculiar ecclesiastical insect 
 named " Carmelita." May I venture to ask permission to 
 search the stems of those beautiful birch trees which by 
 their graceful foliage attracted my attention as I ap- 
 proached the house?" " Certainly," is the courteous and 
 ready reply. " Nevertheless, I fear my gamekeepers will 
 scarcely forgive my granting this permission, for they 
 complain loudly of the injury done to the fences, and
 
 188 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 speak of the disturbance of the game. 1 am quite sure, 
 however, that the game will not suffer from your net. 
 Come when you please, here is my card of admission, may 
 you be successful in your search." 
 
 But we had almost forgotten Newtown Wood and its 
 treasures. Though resident in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood for more than twenty years, that most beautiful 
 avenue of old oaks, veritable kings and queens of the 
 forest, strange to say, was altogether unknown to me, 
 except in name, until the preceeding summer. We had 
 not imagined anything so truly grand and majestic to have 
 been within such easy reach of the pedestrian. 
 
 The king of the butterflies may well be named with the 
 king of the forest. In fact, A. Iris (the Purple Emperor) 
 may be said to hold a divided kingdom with the glory 
 of the forest, the British oak. 
 
 On the topmost bough of the tallest tree may be seen, 
 and it is a sight worth a walk of a dozen miles to see, that 
 most lovely insect unfolding its magnificent wings to the 
 sun, without entertaining apparently the most remote in- 
 tention of affording the man of the " net and pin " below, 
 the remotest hope of a capture. No ! sir, you may 
 repocket your chloroform, I am wide awake, and not so 
 easily to be put to sleep as you seem to imagine. Here is 
 my throne and from it I fling defiance at you. As kings 
 and queens are surrounded by equeries, ladies in waiting, 
 maids of honor and other necessary or useful attendants, 
 even so is it with the kings and queens of the Lepidopterse. 
 See that lovely little creature worthy from its extreme 
 beauty to fill the post of honour to the empress of the 
 butterflies. That is T. Quercus (the Purple Hair-Streak).
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 But here the comparison must cease, for maids of honor 
 are not usually (it is supposed) pugnacious, and our pretty 
 little T. Quercus most unmistakably is. 
 
 A true satelite, or guard to majesty is she, willing to do 
 battle in any cause good or bad, and utterly regardless of 
 the dignity, rank, or prowess of an adversary, hence he is 
 a fortunate finder who is so fortunate as to capture Miss 
 Quercus uninjured from the usages attendant sooner or 
 later upon such Amazonian propensities. 
 
 In Newtown Wood abound most of the Fritillaries 
 A. Paphia (the silver-washed Fritillary) ; A. Aglaia (the 
 dark-green Fritillary) ; A. Adippi (the high-brown Frit- 
 illary) ; A. Euphrosyne (the pearl-bordered Fritillary), 
 and last, not least, has been captured in this wood the 
 rare A. Lathonia (the Queen of Spain Fritillary). 
 
 The very scarce V. Anthropia (the Camberwell Beauty) 
 has been taken in a garden situate at New Inn Lane in 
 this parish. C. edusa (the Clouded Yellow) was common 
 in the closer fields last autumn, and thore can be no doubt 
 C. hyale (the pale Clouded Yellow) might have been 
 taken ; and probably that beautiful variety of C. Edusa, 
 namely, C. Helice. 
 
 The Polyommata ; or, Chalkhill Blues are abundant 
 upon our Downs ; and who can look upon P. Corydon 
 without admiration. 
 
 Of the Nocturni of Doubleday, the Sphingidce are 
 tolerably abundant. A. Atropos (the Deaths Head) may 
 be had in its pupa or chrysalis state at the autumnal 
 gathering of the potatoe crop ; unless, indeed, the cupidity 
 of the capturers, which is not unfrequcntly the case, 
 should put an almost fabulous price upon an insect which 
 is far from uncommon.
 
 190 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 A labouring man in the pretty little village of C 
 
 captured, or we rather believe bred, an A. Antropos, and 
 having carefully boxed his prize, starts off with it one fine 
 moonlight night to the residence of a wealthy neighbour 
 in the hope and expectation that he may be induced to 
 purchase. The insect is produced admired an offer 
 for it made and refused. " I beant agoing to part with it 
 for no such sum ; It aint enough, it aint." Accordingly 
 Atropos is reboxed, and on the march to another destina- 
 tion, when a sudden humour comes upon friend Bumpkin 
 to see how his captive looks by the light of the moon. 
 Yes ! there are the deaths head and cross-bones, and 
 there Whiz Burrhh a moments flitting upon the 
 eye a mount into the air, and an empty box and an 
 empty pocket are all that remain behind. Poor Bumpkin 
 may scratch his astonished head, but the "Deaths Head," 
 ghostlike, has vanished, leaving behind certainly a sadder, 
 and it is to be hoped a wiser man. 
 
 C. ligniperda (the Great Moth) is to be found in its 
 larva state burrowing in the willow. It is a wood feeder 
 most certainly a wood destroyer, as the specific name 
 indicates. It is stated by Pliny that the larva of this 
 insect was considered, in his time, a great dainty with the 
 Roman epicures. We cannot, however, readily believe 
 that Roman palates would so highly prize a dainty, of 
 which it is written " the foetid odour enables us to re- 
 cognise its presence by the smell it imparts to the ground 
 over which it has crawled ; there is, however, no account- 
 ing for tastes, and possibly the olfactory nerves of the 
 ancient Romans were not so highly sensitive as those of 
 the modern Britons. We have not space to particularise 
 other Nocturni, doubtless they are abundant.
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 191 
 
 Of the Geometrae, judging by the specimens which 
 have already come to hand, it may safely be predicted 
 that Epsom and its neighbourhood will not, upon investi- 
 gation, be found to be in the rear of many other famed 
 localities. 
 
 The hilly field at Headley has attained a name and 
 reputation amongst entomologists, and deservedly so, 
 inasmuch as some of the most rare species of Lepidoptera 
 (or the scaly wings) have been taken here. Of the Pseudo 
 Bombyces of Doubleday, the writer regrets to be unable 
 to report at present anything very favourable. What are 
 understood as "common things," though none the less 
 beautiful, to instance, P. Bucephalus (the Buff Tip), the 
 larva of which is most abundant in the Parade, Epsom, 
 and is gregarious, are of course to be found here in 
 abundance ; and it is quite hoped that before the season 
 is over a good account may be rendered of something 
 special in this group. 
 
 As a man is said to be known by the friendships he has 
 formed, so may a Lepidopterist be known by the inspec- 
 tion of his drawer of Pseudo Bombyces. Of the Noctuoo 
 there is much promise of something good. Ashtead oaks 
 have been named as the locality for C. promissa and 
 C. sponsa, the beautiful Underwings. 
 
 The largest and most common of this family, C. nupta 
 (Red Underwing) comes freely to sugar ; and with it, 
 M. Maura (the Old Lady) has been taken in some num- 
 bers in the Vicarage Garden, where also T. Fimbria (the 
 broad bordered Yellow Uunderwing) has been captured. 
 That very highly prized Noctuce, D. rubiginea (the 
 Dotted Ciicsmit) must be searched for among the yew
 
 192 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 
 
 trees in Norbury Park, feeding upon the berry ; or it may 
 be captured at sugar in the same locality. Stainton in 
 his Manual of British Butterflies and Moths, mentions 
 D. rubiginea as " one of the great prizes for autumnal 
 sugarers." Of T. lineographa, another " great prize," we 
 learn from the same authority that Leith Hill, near Dork- 
 ing, is its favourite locality. C. exoleta, though scarcely 
 to be called a rare insect, is not to be found in every 
 locality. at Brighton, upon the Downs, it comes readily 
 to sugar in company with its congener, C. vetusta. It is 
 most probable when we consider that the range of chalk 
 hills extends to our Downs, that this insect will be also 
 found here. Stainton in his Manual (already referred to) 
 writes of C. exoleta "any one who has not seen the larva 
 of this insect has a treat in store. I have only once seen 
 it, and then I nearly screamed with delight. No figure 
 can give any idea of the beauty of the living larva." Of 
 the Deltoides, Pyralides, Crambites, and Tartrites, it will 
 be sufficient to write that they abound more or less in 
 every lane or hedgerow. The micro-lepidoptera also 
 Trinioa and Pterophori may be had for the diligent search 
 in no inconsiderable numbers. 
 
 Before closing this brief and of necessity very imperfect 
 sketch of the Lepidopterse of Epsom, the writer will ven- 
 ture the enquiry why the entomology of Epsom should 
 any longer be permitted to remain in the very uncertain 
 and unsatisfactory state in which it undoubtedly is ? 
 Almost any town of note, as may be readily seen by 
 reference to the " Entomologists Manual," numbers 
 amongst its inhabitants some active, and it is to be hoped, 
 intelligent entomologists. Surrey, we know, is peculiarly
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTICE. 193 
 
 prolific in the generation of the insect tribe, and there can 
 be little doubt that this portion of the lovely county will 
 be found to yield to entomologists generally, whether 
 Le'pidopterists, Coleopterists, Hymenopterists, or other 
 " ists," some very rare treasures. 
 
 There is a Literary and Scientific Institution in the very 
 heart of the Town; would there be any difficulty in 
 placing there, for the benefit of those who are desirous of 
 studying Natural History, collections of birds, insects, 
 fossils, &c ? We think not. In union is strength. Is it 
 too much to invite a few active and intelligent minds and 
 hands to co-operate for the purpose of removing, what 
 appears almost a stigma to the place and its residents, the 
 idea that one only, and that one an all absorbing topic 
 (though it cannot indeed be denied that it is connected in 
 a measure with Natural History, and particularly with the 
 genus Quadruped, class equus) leaves no room, nor in- 
 clination for more invigorating, healthful, and intellectual 
 pursuits.
 
 194 
 
 CONCLUSION, 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 E now bring 
 our little 
 " book to a 
 close. Rapid 
 has been 
 our passage 
 through the 
 scenes that 
 might for 
 
 months have engaged pen or pencil. Such beauties have 
 arisen at every step that the mind was compelled almost 
 to brush them away, lest ornament should entirely hide 
 the needful pointings of a guide. Many things are 
 treasured up, however, for an enlargement of this work in 
 future editions, which may awaken fresh interest in the 
 scenes around. 
 
 We have sought to take the tourist among the most 
 pleasurable scenes, " quite away from the tumult of the 
 world," and nowhere could we have better led him than 
 to the loveliness of Norbury, the leafy grandeur of Ash - 
 tead, the palatial associations of Nonsuch and Durdans, 
 or the quiet of those peaceful little villages with their grey 
 church towers and their green fields. 
 
 He leaves the bustle of the city, and before he can run 
 through many pages of his favourite poet he passes into a 
 region, where the rustic corn field, and the long grey farm
 
 CONCLUSION. 195 
 
 house, the sleepy cattle, and the tinkling of the sheep 
 bells tell him of the sweet and gladsome country. The 
 lovely cottage, in which he thinks he could for ever dwell, 
 with roses flowering down its walls, and rose branches 
 waving and swinging around the lattice. The graceful 
 fern spreading its fronds beneath the shadow of its porch, 
 and the friendly apple-tree spreading its fruitful shade 
 above, the trim and tasteful garden half flowers, half fruits 
 and vegetables, so fresh and dainty, the picturesque 
 chimney wreathed with ivy and the gleesome children 
 gamboling in the paths. How sweet the scene, in the 
 afternoon time, when the sun is twinkling through the 
 leaves, or slowly dripping his golden light a-down the 
 valley ! 
 
 Let him leave the noise of the city far away, and rest 
 him beneath yon clump of pines and sycamores, getting 
 alone with the clouds and shadows when sweet eve is 
 coming on: or let him stretch upon the verdant slope 
 shadowed by the ancient ash and oak, when there is no 
 breath around and all is motionless, save the soft sibilant 
 swaying and curtseying of their boughs. Some bank on 
 which the wild thyme grows with its leaves and flowers 
 and insects, in an hour so quiet 
 " As, that a whispering blade 
 Of grass, a wailful gnat, a bee bustling 
 Down in the blue bells, or a wren's light rustling 
 Away sere leaves and twigs, might all be heard." 
 
 There is a pleasure in business, and idleness is a toil, 
 but toiling labour must have rest, and contemplation must 
 have its part in a well regulated life. How well to have 
 our resting places among the bright and beautiful, and 
 there to mark in His Creations the vestiges of our God, to 
 
 o 2
 
 196 CONCLUSION. 
 
 wonder at His greatness where most it shines even in His 
 little things. 
 
 The well cultivated mind will ever bring God into his 
 company when he walks amid the works of His hand. 
 Every wonder will draw its greatest glory from the fact 
 that it is the High and Holy one that has clothed it with 
 its beauty. 
 
 Some admire scenes of one character, some those in- 
 vested with a different aspect. Some love the sea-side 
 and the wild wave tossed by the mighty wind to them has 
 most charm. Let me lie down upon the soft and grassy 
 turf that yields elastic to the pressure, and listen to the 
 poets song, when the air is calm and serene, and the 
 leaves and flowers fresh with childhood and his song we 
 will make our own," 
 
 " When on the wave the breeze soft kisses flings 
 
 I rouse my fearful heart and long to be 
 
 Floating at leisure on the tranquil sea ; 
 
 But -when the hoary ocean loudly sings 
 
 Arches his foamy back and spooming swings 
 
 "Wave upon wave, his angry swell I flee. 
 
 Then welcome land and sylvan shade to me, 
 
 Where if a gale blows, still the pine tree sings. 
 
 Hard is his life whose nets the ocean sweeps 
 
 A bark his horse shy fish his slippery prey ; 
 
 But sweet to me the unsuspicious sleep 
 
 Beneath a leafy plane the fountains play 
 
 That babbles idly, or whose tones, if deep, 
 
 Delight the rural ear and not affray."
 
 197 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 American mode of Sight Seeing, 1. 
 
 Socket, Rev. B. Bradney, 23. 
 
 Anecdote of Poplar Tree, 45. 
 
 Botanical Notice. 177-184. Derivation 
 
 Anecdote from experience of Parish 
 Clerk, 56. 
 Anecdote of an Insurance Agent, 66. 
 Alfred, King, bestowed Leodride on his 
 
 of the word Botany, 177 ; Botany, 
 knowledge of, necessarv to full enjoy- 
 ment of nature, 178 ; Botany, instru- 
 ments for, 180 ; Botany, synopsis of, 
 fit for student, 180 ; Bivalves, 185. 
 
 son Edward, 138. 
 Ale wife of Letherhead, her Cabaret, 141. 
 
 Brooks, R. Esq., M.P., 85. 
 
 Animal Kingdom, Epsom rich in the 
 treasures of, 186 ; A. Iris, the purple 
 emperor, 188 ; Anecdote of A. Anthro- 
 pos and the Bumpkin, 190. 
 ASHTBAD, 115-136; situation, 115; men- 
 tion in Doomsday- Book, 116; owners 
 of estate, 116-118; seats of gentry, 118: 
 Inn, 119; Toland on 1666, 115. 
 
 CHESSINOTON, 174-176; its ecclesiastical 
 junction with Maiden, 174 ; its situa- 
 tion, 174; boundaries, 174; Cisendone 
 and Cisedune, names thereof men- 
 tioned in Doomsday- Book, 174 ; con- 
 veyance to Edward Northey. Esq. 174 ; 
 church & monuments, 174 ; Camden's 
 account of Roman remains near Ban- 
 
 Avenue of Limes at Ashtead, 121. 
 
 stead, 169 ; Cardinal Poles conspiracy. 
 
 Ashtead, Aubrey on, 122. 
 
 165 ; Campanula, 181 ; Camberwell 
 
 Ashtead, Evelyn on, 122. 
 
 beauty, 189. 
 
 Anecdote regarding Spanish Chesnut 
 Trees at Ashtead, 126. 
 
 Cedar carving at Ashtead church, 131. 
 Chessington Church, 175. 
 
 Almshouses at Epsom, 57. 
 
 Chenopodium, 181 ; Chalk beds, 184. 
 
 Almsbouses at Ashtead, 135. 
 
 Charles II., his courtiers resorting the 
 
 Ashtead Church, 130. 
 Anecdote of Queen Elizabeth's cause of 
 
 King's Head inn, 19. 
 Charles II. problem, Dr. Rochecliffe's 
 
 leaving Nonsuch 108. 
 
 explanation, 76. 
 
 
 Charles II. and his Queen dine at Dur- 
 
 BANSTEAD, 163-170; situation, 163; its 
 
 dans, 80. 
 
 Downs, 163 ; mention in Doomsday- 
 Book, 163 ; seven manors in parish. 
 
 Charles II. a guest at Ashtead during 
 Sir Robert Howard's time. 120. 
 
 164 ; Henry VIII. settles part on 
 
 Charles II. builds stables at Epsom, 19. 
 
 Katherine of Aragon, 164; seats of 
 gentry, 167; church and monuments, 
 166 ; Banstead, restoration of to Sir 
 
 Church, St. Martin's, Epsom, 46. 
 Church, Christ's, Epsom Common, 58. 
 
 Francis Carew, 165; Banstead Park, 
 
 Churches, two mentioned in Doomsday- 
 
 168; Banstead Place, 168; Bergh 
 
 Book as existing in Epsom, 46. 
 
 House, 168; Burgh, manor of, 165; 
 
 Church of Ewell, 99. 
 
 Banstead, traditionary lore concern- 
 ing. 169 ; Buckle, family of, 165 ; Ban- 
 stead, Evelyn's mention of, 169 ; Bray- 
 ley's History of Surrey on Races at 
 
 Church, St. Giles, Ashtead, 130. 
 Church, All Saints, Banstead, 166. 
 Church, Chessington, 175. 
 
 Epsom, 170. 
 
 Chapel of Independents, Epsom, 60. 
 
 Burney, Dr., epitaph by him, 175. 
 
 Chapel of Wesleyan Methodists, 61. 
 
 Bishop Wilfred, 8; Black Abbot of 
 
 Chapel, temporary, 61. 
 
 Chertsey, legend concerning, 9. 
 
 Chapel of professors of pure Calvanistic 
 
 Boucher, Rev. Jonathan, 48. 
 
 doctrine, 61. 
 
 Benevolent College, Royal Medical, 45. 
 
 Chalibeate Wells, Mrs. Deborah Giles 
 
 Bridge across the Mole, 137. 
 
 on, 73. 
 
 Beech Trees at Norbury, 149; Baits 
 
 Chertsey, Black Abbot of, 9. 
 
 suited to fishing the Mole, 151. 
 
 Clay, valuable in Epsom district, 186. 
 
 Banks at Epsom, 14. 
 
 Coleopterist meets subjects for study at 
 
 Bath of Queen Elizabeth near Nonsuch, Epsom, 186. 
 
 97. ' College, Royal Medical Benevolent, 63.
 
 198 
 
 Copyhold injurious to Epsom, 11. 
 
 Flies and bait suited to the Mole, 151. 
 
 Crisp, Samuel, his monument in Ches- 
 sington Church, 175. 
 
 Fish not the sufferers they are imagined 
 to be, 155. 
 
 Curious quotation from Leland, 186. 
 
 Fishing subjects, various remarks on, 154 
 
 
 Fish with hooks and lines in their 
 
 D'Arhlay, Madame, her father wrote the 
 epitaph to Samuel Crisp, 175. 
 
 mouths take the natural fly, 158. 
 Fish, test of weight in, 152. 
 
 Deer at Ashtead, 128. 
 
 Fish, lakes at Brussells drained for, 160. 
 
 Defoe's anecdote on Mole, 159 
 
 Fishing with minnow, 151. 
 
 Derby-day, road on, 5. 
 
 Frederic, Prince of Wales, 81. 
 
 Derby Stakes, origin of name, 172. 
 
 Farmer, W. Esq., in possession of Non- 
 
 District Visiting Society, 59. 
 
 such, 113. 
 
 Downs at Epsom, scenery of, 171. 
 
 Fine collection pictures at Ashtead, 123. 
 
 Doomsday-Book on Ebesham, 9. 
 
 Ferns, 182; Fritillaries, 189. 
 
 Doomsday-Book on Ewell, 92. 
 
 
 Doomsday-Book on Ashtead, 116. 
 Doomsday-Book on Thorncroft, 138. 
 Doomsday-Book on Banstead, 163. 
 Doomsday-Book on Chessingtou, 174. 
 Doctor, his explanation of the Wells, 
 decline, 75. 
 
 Gasworks at Epsom, 15 
 Gadesden, Mrs., of Ewell Castle, 97. 
 George IV. at Epsom when Regent, 27. 
 Giles, Mrs. Dedorah, on chalibeates, 73. 
 Glyn, family of, 95. 
 Gardens at Nonsuch, 113, 
 
 Doubleday, Nocturni of. 189. 
 
 Gardens & conservatories at Ashtead, 129 
 
 Drayton's episode on wooing of the 
 
 Gardens, nursery at Epsom, 15. 
 
 Thames and Medway, 156. 
 
 Gilpin, 128; Gainsborough. 128. 
 
 Durdans, 80. 
 
 Gosse, Henry, Esq., 24. 
 
 EPSOM, 5-44 ; its palaces mediaeval and 
 more modern, 7 ; situation, 8 ; old 
 
 Gamekeepers enemies to Entomology, 187 
 Gale on Banstead antiquities, 169. 
 
 names of, 8 ; derivation of name, 8 ; 
 
 Ghost Story and Lord Lyttleton, 17. 
 
 Henry VIII. in possession of, 10; 
 
 Gwynn, Eleanor, at Epsom, 19. 
 
 various successions, 11 ; Ebifham, 
 
 
 Ebesham, Epseham, 8; Ebba, Princess 
 8; Epsom court, 8; Elizabeth gives 
 manor to Edward Darcy, Esq., 10; 
 Epsom races, 170 ; railways to, 13 ; 
 
 Head, Sir Francis, 18. 
 Harris, Dr., author of Mammon, 60. 
 Henry VIII. in possession of Epsom, 10. 
 
 Epsom, seats of gentry near, 79-90. 
 
 Henry VIII. annexes Ewell to Hamp- 
 
 Eastern kings weighed 71. 
 Elizabeth purchased Nonsuch Park, 107. 
 Essex and Elizabeth, 107. 
 
 ton, 92. 
 Henrv VIII., origin of his taking Non- 
 sucn, 104. 
 
 Edward III., ancient bridge at Lether- 
 head in reign of, 137. 
 Elinour Rummyng, Skelton's mention of 
 
 Henry VIII. settles part of Banstead on 
 Katherine of Aragon, 164. 
 Headley, hilly field of. 191. 
 
 her, 141. 
 
 Hogarth's print with Mrs. Mapp intro- 
 
 Egmont, Earl of, his seat at Nork, 167. 
 Epsom, plants peculiar to, 186. 
 Evelyn's description of the air of Sur- 
 rey, 8. 
 
 duced, 79. 
 Horsley's account of Roman remains, 170 
 Howard, Sir Robert, 117-121. 
 Howard, Hon. Mrs., 118. 
 
 Evelyn on the Beech, 127. 
 
 Howard, Hon. F. G., 118. 
 
 Evelyn on Ashtead. 122. 
 
 Hortou, manor of, 12. 
 
 Evelyn at Durdans, 80. 
 
 House in Southwark belonging to Ban- 
 
 Eudoxa, Tolands letter to, 32. 
 Elinour Kummyng, 141 ; Elms, 112-125. 
 EWELL Church, 99 ; manor of, 92 ; deri- 
 
 stead, 163. 
 Hotels in Epsom, 13. 
 Hotel in Ewell, 96. 
 
 vation of name, 92. 
 
 Hotel in Letherhead, 161; Hotel in 
 
 
 Banstead, 168. 
 
 Fishing on Mole, 153. 
 
 Hudson, Mrs., Banstead, 166.
 
 199 
 
 Hypocaust, part of, at Ashtead, 131. 
 
 National Schools at Banstead, 167. 
 
 nfant School, Epsom, Miss Trotter, 60. 
 nn, New, at Epsom, 1706, 28. 
 nn at Banstead, 168. 
 nn at Ashtead, 118. 
 
 Natinoal Schools at Chessington, 176, 
 Nell Gwynn, account of her death, 20. 
 Nonsuch park and palace, 104. 
 Northey, Sir Edw., attorney-general, 51. 
 Newtown Wood, 135-188. 
 
 nstruments for Botany, 180. 
 tinerary, Toland's, 39. 
 
 Nork, seat of Earl of Egmont, 167. 
 Norbury park. 146. 
 
 James II. at Ashtead, 120. 
 
 Notice, Botanical, 177. 
 
 Jeffry, Judge, at Letherhead, 142. 
 
 Notice, Geological, 184. 
 
 
 Notice, Entomological, 186. 
 
 King's Head Hotel, Epsom, once fre- 
 
 Nursery gardens, 15. 
 
 quented by Courtiers Charles 11., 19. 
 
 
 Knipe, Mr., anecdote of, 89. 
 
 Object of this work, 
 
 
 Oak and Walnut trees at Norbury, 148. 
 
 London, fire of, Pepys account, 109 
 
 Oak carving at Banstead church, 166. 
 
 Levingstone's rogueries, 72. 
 
 Old ruins of Queen Elizabeth's bath, 97. 
 
 Leigh Hunt on Frederic Prince Wales, 81 
 
 Orchidaceas, 180. 
 
 Letherhead connected with Ewell in 
 
 Ophrys, 181. 
 
 123, 138 
 
 Origin of Henry VIII. possessing Non- 
 
 Letherhead the country around, 139. 
 
 such, 104. 
 
 Lambert family, 166. 
 
 Origin of name of river Mole, 152. 
 
 Linnaeus on "order," 178. 
 
 Opera, Beggars, and Polly Peachum, 77. 
 
 Lay of the Scotch bard, 162. 
 
 Owners of Ashtead estate, 116-118. 
 
 Leland on valuable clays, 186. 
 Large antlers, legend of, 128. 
 
 Owners of Norbury estate since the reign 
 of Edward the Confessor, 137-139. 
 
 Legge, Kev. William, 122-134. 
 Lexicographer, Parkhnrst the, 50. 
 
 Palaces of Epsom in Medifeval period, 7. 
 Falace of Nonsuch, 104, 
 
 Lyttleton, Lord, at Pitt Place, Epsom, 17 
 Lyttleton, Lord, extraordinary vision 
 to 17. 
 
 Palace of Ebba on site Epsom court, 8 
 Parish Church, Epsom, 45. 
 
 Lepidopterse of Epsom and neighbour- 
 hood, 186. 
 
 Parkhurst, Rev. John, 50. 
 Parkhurst Charles, curious inscription 
 
 
 on his tombstone, 54. 
 
 Mapp, Mrs., at Epsom, 77 ; her mar- 
 
 Plans for the tourist, 74-146. 
 
 riage,79. 
 
 Park of Nonsuch, 104. 
 
 Manors, 8-10-12-92-116-138-165-174. 
 
 Park, Norbury, 146. 
 
 Mediteval period, palaces of, 7. 
 
 Park of Ashtead, 119. 
 
 Madan, Martin, Kev., 86. 
 
 Park Trees, 120. 
 
 Modern palatial structures, 7. 
 
 Pepys Diary, extracts from, 108-109. 
 
 Mole, its course. 153. 
 
 Pepys mention of Nell Gwynn, 21. . 
 
 Mole, Drayton, Spenser, Milton, Dodsley 
 
 Pictures at Ashtead, 123. 
 
 and Thompson on, 156-157-158. 
 
 Present possessors of Ewell, 94-96. 
 
 Mole a court beauty ; Fishing on, 153. 
 
 Present possessor of Nonsuch, 113. 
 
 Monuments at Epsom, 48. 
 
 Pitt Place, residence Lord Lyttleton, 17. 
 
 Monuments at Ewell, 100. 
 
 Princess Ebba, 8. 
 
 Monuments at Ashtead, 132. 
 
 Print of Mrs. Mapp by W. Hogarth, 79. 
 
 Monuments at Letherhead, 143. 
 
 Perrotts, the manor of, 166. 
 
 Monuments at Banstead, 166. 
 
 Present possessor of manors of Cisen- 
 
 Monuments at Chessington, 175. 
 
 done and Cisedune, 174. 
 
 
 Plants peculiar to the neighbourhood of 
 
 National Schools at Epsom, 60. 
 
 Epsom, 180. 
 
 National Schools at Ashtead, 134. 
 
 Pits, chalk, of Sutton, Cheam, &c., 184.
 
 200 
 
 Purple Emperor, the, 188. 
 Purple hair-streak, the, 188. 
 
 Quantity of fish netted in Mole, 159, 
 Queen Elizabeth gives possession of 
 
 Epsom to Edward Darcy, Esq., 10. 
 Queen Victoria's visit Epsom Races, 85. 
 Quercus, or purple hair-streak, 188. 
 
 Races at Epsom, 170. 
 
 Royal Medical Benevolent College, 63. 
 
 Railways to Epsom, 13. 
 
 Registers of Banstead, commence 1546, 
 167. 
 
 Register of funeral of Judge Jeffry's 
 daughter, at Letherhead, 142. 
 
 Remarks on fishing, 160. 
 
 River Mole, course of, 153. 
 
 Remarkable Church of All Saints, Ban- 
 stead, for its pointed arches, 166. 
 
 Restoration of Banstead to Sir F. Carew, 
 165. 
 
 Roman fragments, 169 ; Ruth Brett, 
 Monument to, 166. 
 
 River Mole, bait suited to, 151. 
 
 Rubiginea, or dotted chesnut moth, 191. 
 
 Seats of Gentrj, 84-90-96-98-144-145. 
 
 Scdum, 181. 
 
 Scrofula, cure by kings, 78. 
 
 Shrubberies at Ashtead, 125. 
 
 Scotch Bard, lay of, 162. 
 
 Spanish Chesnuts at Ashtead, 136. 
 
 Spanish Chesnuts, anecdote of, 127. 
 
 Spencer on the Mole, 158. 
 
 Specimens of Ventriculite, 185. 
 
 Stables at Ashtead, 130. 
 
 Stainton on C. exoleta, 192. 
 
 Stakes, Derby and Oaks, origin of the 
 
 names, 172. 
 
 Stewards of the course, 173. 
 Stane-street causeway, 169. 
 Swallows, cause of the Mole, 159. 
 Synopsis of Botany suitable for the 
 
 student, 180. 
 Skelton, poet-laureat to Henry VIII. 141 
 
 Tadworth, manor of, 166. 
 Test of weight in fish, 152. 
 Turner, Sharon, residence of, 24. 
 Turner Sharon, works of, 24. 
 Toland on Wells, 69. 
 
 Tolaud's Itinerary, 39. 
 
 Toland on Ashtead, 115. 
 
 Toland's Letter to Eudoxa, 32. 
 
 Top Sawyer, the, 89. 
 
 Tourist, plans for, 74-146. 
 
 Thames meets Mole and loves, 156. 
 
 Thorn bury on Nonsuch Palace, 111. 
 
 Thormanby and Eclipse, 178. 
 
 Torr, George, Esq., his residence, 96. 
 
 Thorncroft, manor of, 138. 
 
 Three separate estates in Letherhead 
 before the Norman Conquest, 139. 
 
 Trees, ancient yew, 148, 
 
 Two Churches mentioned in Doomsday- 
 Book as existing at Epsom, 46. 
 
 Traditionary lore concerning Banstead, 
 
 Tradition as to the origin of Epsom 
 
 Races, 172. 
 Trees of Ashtead Park, 121-125. 
 
 Union Workhouse, Epsom, 61. 
 
 Various successors to Epsom, 11. 
 Village of Banstead, 163. 
 Various species of Ferns, 182. 
 Ventriculite in chalk pits of Sutton and 
 
 Cheam. 185. 
 Vertebra in the chalk, 185. 
 
 Wilfred, Bishop, baptised, 8. 
 
 Watts, Dr., 60. 
 
 Wells, the, 65. 
 
 What they were? 66. 
 
 What they are ? 66. 
 
 Welle, discovery of the, 68. 
 
 Wells, Toland on, 69-72. 
 
 Wells in the present day, 69. 
 
 Wells, cause of decay, 75, 
 
 Wells, chalibeate, 73. 
 
 Will Hogarth's print of Mrs. Mapp, 76. 
 
 Wales, Frederic Prince of, 80. 
 
 Woodcote Park, 84. 
 
 Wooing of Thames and Medway, 156. 
 
 Wych Elm, 125. 
 
 Windows of stained glass, 47. 
 
 Woodcote, Roman remains, 169. 
 
 Young Doctors explanations of the fail- 
 ure of the Well, 75. 
 Tew Trees, ancient, 148.
 
 DC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 Illlliiillllllllll! 
 
 A 000018209 7