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V. 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
THE M WIKAKXIKA GHAT 
 BENAEES 
 
INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 WITH SOME NOTES OF CEYLON 
 DURING A WINTER TOUR, 1906-7 
 BY WALTER CRANE, R.W. S. WITH 
 A FRONTISPIECE IN COLOUR AND 
 NUMEROUS OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS 
 FROM SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 9 
 
 SECOND EDITION 
 
 LONDON: METHUEN fcf CO. 
 $6, ESSEX STREET, STRAND 
 
wadjih nm 
 
 First Published . . October /<poj 
 Second Edition . 1908 
 
TO MY WIFE 
 MY TRAVELLING COMPANION 
 ON THIS TOUR, AND TO WHOM 
 THE PROJECT WAS DUE, I 
 NOW INSCRIBE ITS RECORD 
 
 213160 
 
PREFACE 
 
 A LTHOUGH many books descriptive of India 
 and Indian life have recently appeared, even 
 a short visit to that wonderful country presents so 
 extraordinary a series of spectacles to the European, 
 especially to one seeing the East for the first time, 
 that it occurred to me that a few notes and fresh 
 impressions from an artist's point of view, accom- 
 panied by sketches made on the spot, as well as 
 illustrations of the lighter side of travel, might not 
 be without interest to the public. 
 
 Even apart from the enormous artistic interest 
 and architectural splendours of India, which are so 
 rich and abundant that one feels that hundreds of 
 drawings would be necessary to give any adequate 
 idea of their beauty, there is the human interest 
 of these vast populations, among whom so many 
 streams of race, language and religion are found, 
 not to speak of the problems of government and 
 administration they present. 
 
 I cannot claim to have had any special facilities 
 in seeing the country — no more at least than might 
 be at the command of an ordinary English tourist, 
 and have trusted chiefly to what powers of observa- 
 
viii INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 tion I may possess in describing the various cities 
 visited, and the districts traversed, and I offer these 
 notes strictly as personal impressions. 
 
 Owing to ever increasing facilities of travel, the 
 East is, in a sense, drawn nearer to the West, or, 
 rather the West to the East, but nothing strikes the 
 traveller so much as the apparently vast gulf 
 dividing the dark-skinned races from the white — a 
 gulf deeper and wider than the oceans. 
 
 I mean the profound differences in ideas, in 
 religion, in sentiment, in life, habit and custom. 
 Western influence where even it has had any- 
 apparent effect — apart from commercial enterprise — 
 seems to be but a thin veneer, and it is a constant 
 wonder how the British should have been able to 
 acquire and maintain their grasp over this vast 
 peninsular, and to hold the balance between 
 antagonistic races and creeds so long. 
 
 But it is not a comfortable thought for an 
 Englishman, loving freedom, and accustomed to the 
 principles of popular and representative government 
 at home, to realise that this vast empire is held 
 under the strictest autocratic system ; and that the 
 national aspirations that are now beginning to 
 make themselves heard and felt should be entirely 
 ignored, and the voice of native feeling sternly 
 suppressed. 
 
 One can only hope that the great British people 
 will take more trouble to study and understand 
 their great Dependency, and not be prevented by 
 
PREFACE ix 
 
 official explanations from making independent 
 inquiries and observations for themselves, and 
 finally to " be just and fear not." 
 
 If, however, in any way and from any point of 
 view, these impressions may serve, in however 
 slight a degree, to increase the interest of my own 
 countrymen and women in India, I shall be very 
 glad. 
 
 WALTER CRANE 
 Kensington, July 1907 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 Preface 
 
 vii 
 
 I. 
 
 The Voyage 
 
 i 
 
 II. 
 
 Bombay and the Caves of Ellor 
 
 A . . 2 1 
 
 III. 
 
 Ahmedabad 
 
 4 8 
 
 IV. 
 
 Ahmed abad to Ajmir . 
 
 62 
 
 V. 
 
 Chitorgarh and Udaipur 
 
 74 
 
 VI. 
 
 Jaipur .... 
 
 96 
 
 VII. 
 
 Agra .... 
 
 112 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Gwalior 
 
 127 
 
 IX. 
 
 Delhi .... 
 
 144 
 
 X. 
 
 Amritzar and Lahore . 
 
 161 
 
 XI. 
 
 Lucknow 
 
 • 185 
 
 XII. 
 
 Benares 
 
 200 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Calcutta — Darjeeling 
 
 218 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Madras and the South 
 
 2 39 
 
 XV. 
 
 Notes of Ceylon 
 
 290 
 
 Index 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN 
 THE TEXT 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 Rough Sketch Map of India .... xvi 
 
 London to Port Said, a Hieroglyphic of our 
 
 Voyage ...... 3 
 
 Coaling at Port Said — and after ! . .6 
 
 Spoiling the Egyptians ? or being Despoiled by 
 
 Them !...... 7 
 
 Sensation in Solar Topis .... 7 
 
 The Suez Canal . 9 
 
 The Passage of the Red Sea (Therm: 88 c or so!) 12 
 
 In the same Boat — a Contrast at Aden . . 14 
 
 Some Types among our Fellow Passengers . 17 
 
 Landing at Bombay . . . . .22 
 
 Awaiting the Customs — Bombay . . .23 
 
 Street Performers — Bombay . . . .24 
 
 Interview with Candidates for the Post of Bearer 
 
 mostly unbearable! . . . .31 
 
 A Bed at the Dak Bungalow ! Munmad (keep it 
 
 Da(r)k) • • • 35 
 
 We are introduced to the Caves of Ellora . 39 
 
 And its Wasps ...... 42 
 
 The Feet of Pilgrims (at Mohammedan Mosques) 50 
 Poor Relations . . . . .52 
 
 A Family Party — Cranes on a Mango Tree (Sar- 
 
 barmati River) . . . . .54 
 
 Street Scene, Ahmedabad. English Travellers 
 
 sketch inc. and making purchases . 57 
 
 The Camel's Crinoline (Sugar Cane) Ajmir . 71 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Xlll 
 
 First Elephant Ride. (Chitorgarh) 
 
 Rajputs and their Rarities. (Udaipur) 
 
 Hotel Accommodation (Jaipur), " for your Ease 
 and Comfort" (or rather for the Easing of 
 your Rupees ?) 
 
 To Amber on an Elephant 
 
 Shopping in Jaipur 
 
 Aggravating Agra 
 
 The Mainstay of India. Aquarius — the Water 
 
 BEARER .... 
 
 To Gwalior Fort by Palanquin 
 
 Callers at the Guest House, Gwalior 
 
 A Dash for the Dining-car at Agra Road 
 
 Delhi Driving. Wanted — a Rule of the Road 
 
 She won't be Happy till She gets Everything 
 packed up . 
 
 Demon Hotel Touts at Amritzar fighting for 
 their Prey 
 
 Through Amritzar — sit tight and hold a Smelling 
 Bottle ! . 
 
 An Indian Autolycus . 
 
 Enjoying a Log Fire at Lahore 
 
 "The Woman in White" at Lahore (Suggestion 
 for a Disguise Party) 
 
 The Merchants of Kashmir . 
 
 In Hospital, Lucknow. The Operating Table 
 (Patient had a Bit of Grit in her Eye after 
 a Train Journey) — Sixteen Rupees were ex- 
 tracted ! . 
 
 Jugglers at Lucknow — the Mango Tree Trick 
 
 Better Luck at Lucknow — through the Chowk 
 on an Elephant ..... 
 
 The Maharajah places his Carriage at our 
 Disposal ...... 
 
 I'AGE 
 78 
 
 85 
 
 98 
 106 
 IO9 
 
 119 
 129 
 
 137 
 146 
 
 *59 
 162 
 163 
 
 165 
 168 
 
 172 
 
 T 75 
 
 186 
 187 
 
 J 95 
 
xiv INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 benare;- : mewing the ghats from the maharajah's 
 
 Peacock Boat ..... 207 
 
 We see Snakes at Benares .... 209 
 
 The Maharajah's Reception, decorating the 
 
 Visitors . . . . . .214 
 
 The Soothsayer at Calcutta — (or Palmistry under 
 
 the Palms) . . . . .220 
 
 The Darjeeling Toy-Railway trying to catch its 
 
 own Tail ! . . . . . 225 
 
 Characters in a Tibetan Masque, Darjeeling . 228 
 
 The shy Peak of Kinchin Junga . . 233 
 
 A Ride at Darjeeling: ''up Hill spare Me" . 234 
 
 A Hailstone Chorus — Departure from Darjeeling 236 
 
 Calcutta to Madras — Section of Sleeper — or 
 
 Something like It .... 240 
 
 Ladies or Gentlemen ? (Fashions in Southern 
 
 India) ...... 243 
 
 Madras — a Jin-kickshaw made for Two . . 250 
 
 Tanjore — Native Theatre — House full. Perform- 
 ance FROM 9 P.M. TILL 2 A.M. BUT We DIDN'T 
 
 stop to see It through .... 265 
 
 Trichinopoly — Ox Tonga — Vita Brevis ! . . 271 
 
 The Sacred Elephants of Seringham — securing 
 
 Two- Anna Pieces . . . . .274 
 
 The Rivals. Our Moonsawmy and the Madura 
 
 Guide . . . . . .277 
 
 Tuticorin. Departure for Colombo. The Last of 
 
 the Kites and Crows .... 287 
 
 Landing at Colombo . . . . .291 
 
 Common Objects of Colombo. (Jin-rickshawus 
 
 Bipedes) ...... 293 
 
 A Cingalese Waiter ..... 294 
 
 In Ceylon — Extremes meet — the Motor and the 
 
 Ox-cart ...... 296 
 
LIST OF PLATES xv 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Tea Plantation, Ceylon .... 303 
 
 Tea and Rubber in Ceylon — a rising Industry . 309 
 
 A few Trifles the Wife wished to bring Home 
 
 from India . . . .316 
 
 LIST OF PLATES 
 
 The Manikarnika Ghat, Benares . . Frontispiece 
 
 TO FACE PAGE 
 
 The Kylas, Caves of Ellora . . .38 
 
 Arrival of Mr Dadabhai Naoroji at Bombay, 
 
 December 14, 1906 . . . .46 
 
 Tomb of Gunj Baksh, Sarkhei . . .58 
 
 Shrine of the Kwaja, Ajmir . . . .66 
 
 The Maharajah's Palace at Udaipur, from the 
 
 Jagmandir Pavilion . . . 8S 
 
 The Maharajah's State Elephant, Jaipur . .102 
 
 The Taj Mahal, from the Gateway . . 116 
 
 In the Bazaar, Gwalior . . . .134 
 
 Approach to the Palace of Man Mandir, Gwalior 138 
 
 The Jama Musjid Mosque, Delhi . . .152 
 
 Lahore — The Mosque of Waza Khan . .182 
 
 Irrigation Well, Lucknow .... 196 
 
 Kinchin Junga from Darjeeling . . . 232 
 
 Tanjore — The Great Gate of the Temple . 254 
 
 Sacred Tank of the Great Temple, Madura . 282 
 
 Under the Palms at the Galle Face, Ceylon . 292 
 
*TCHANi$7/'*ir~ / *^\, KAi M /Vv i r^ 
 
 
 3&"^ 
 
 c^ 
 
INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 THE VOYAGE 
 
 A VISIT to India and the East had long been 
 a cherished but somewhat vague dream with 
 us. It seemed a far cry, and to make a break 
 of a few months in the midst of the occupations 
 of a busy life is always a difficult matter. The 
 impossible, however, became in course of time 
 possible, and even practicable. Inquiries as to 
 ways and means had the effect of clearing our 
 path ; and having the will, the way was soon 
 discovered. 
 
 "Only sixteen days to Bombay!" our Indian 
 friends in London told us, and they were always 
 urging us to go and see their wonderful country 
 for ourselves. Mr Romesh Dutt and Dr Mulich 
 had been visitors at our house. The former 
 had presented his interesting translation of the 
 " Ramayana," illustrated by Miss Hardy, to my 
 wife. Besides these we had from time to time 
 made the acquaintance of several native gentle- 
 men in London who were reading for the Indian 
 Bar. They came and went, but all were earnest 
 in their hope that we should visit India, and I 
 think that they had discovered our sympathies were 
 
2 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 with those of their countrymen in their aspirations to 
 participate in the administration of the affairs of 
 their own country. 
 
 The decisive step of booking our passage was 
 at last taken in the summer of 1906, and the 19th 
 day of November following saw us en route for 
 Marseilles, where we committed ourselves to the 
 care of the Messageries Maritime, and embarked 
 on the S.S. "La Nera" in due course, putting to 
 sea on Wednesday, the 21st November. 
 
 It was a lovely bright afternoon as we left the 
 port, the southern sunshine flooding everything in 
 golden light. It is a wonderful moment when the 
 ship casts off. The great liner, which had seemed 
 a part of the land itself while the stream of 
 passengers passed up the gangways, and their 
 baggage after them, begins to throb with life and 
 movement — to tremble, as it were, with expectation 
 of departure. As a swimmer about to take the 
 water casts off all impedimenta, so the ship casts oft 
 her cables and all that links her to the shore, and 
 glides off into the great blue deep, breasting the 
 waves of the vast open sea. Incredibly fast as the 
 engines beat the solid land fades away. The domes 
 and towers and chimneys silhouetted against the 
 bright sky, the people on the quays, the ships 
 riding at anchor, the tossing harbour buoys, the 
 small sailing craft flitting about, all are rolled by as 
 on the canvas of a moving diorama, as the steamer 
 clears the port, and all detail becomes merged and 
 lost under the bold main outlines of the rocky 
 coast, or the dim shapes of the distant mountains. 
 
 As the long shining wake increases astern and 
 
THE VOYAGE 
 
 3 
 
 the coast recedes, those nautical camp-followers 
 the gulls, which have pursued the ship from the 
 harbour, begin to diminish their numbers, though 
 
 ENGLAND 
 
 LONDON TO PORT SAID, A HIEROGLYPHIC OF OUR VOYAGE 
 
 they wing a long way out to sea, attracted by the 
 crumbs which occasionally fall from the region of 
 the cook's galley. 
 
 A glorious sunset inaugurated our first night at 
 sea — of the order of the Golden Fleece, as it might 
 
4 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 be called — a distinct type, when in a windless sky a 
 large field of delicate fleecy cirrus cloud spreads in 
 a level field from west to east, and as the sun sinks its 
 under edges are lighted up by golden light, changing 
 to orange, scarlet, and crimson, when he disappears 
 beneath the horizon. So our voyage began pro- 
 pitiously, and with a smooth sea. Early the next 
 morning we passed through the Straits of Bonifazio, 
 between Corsica and Sardinia, the coasts of which 
 we had a glimpse of through our port-hole, and 
 on the morning of the third day, after a little 
 tossing, we sighted Sicily, passing Scylla and 
 Charybdis at the entrance of the straits, and close 
 to Messina. Etna soon came into view, its summit 
 covered with a crown of snow (as we had seen it 
 on our visit to Taormina in 1904). 
 
 The Calabrian coast, too, was very interesting, 
 the mountains of striking form, and the lines very 
 varied all along to Cape Spartivento — the toe of the 
 boot-shaped continent of Italy. We could see the 
 little white towns along the coast and among the 
 hills, and the monasteries perched high upon crags. 
 Etna gradually faded away, like a vision, beyond 
 the dark blue edge of the sea, and almost im- 
 mediately after passing the cape we encountered 
 a strong easterly wind from the Adriatic, which 
 met the Mediterranean here. 
 
 At sunset there were huge banks of grey 
 clouds of fantastic shapes rising like high wooded 
 islands, but we had moonlight on the waters every 
 night. 
 
 Those grey banks of cloud, however, were 
 ominous, and by November the 24th the weather 
 
THE VOYAGE 5 
 
 grew so rough that the " fiddle-strings " became 
 necessary on the tables in the dining-saloon, 
 where the attendance, too, grew distinctly thinner. 
 Towards evening we sighted the cliffs of Crete 
 (Candia), the fissured, mountainous, and dangerous- 
 looking coast plainly visible in the sunlight, 
 though a bank of cloud covered the summits of 
 the island. 
 
 After much tossing and rolling through another 
 day and night the lights of Port Said were sighted 
 about four o'clock on the morning" of November 26. 
 There was a powerful search-light from the light- 
 house. We got into harbour about 5.30, and the 
 coaling began. It was a weird scene. Six black 
 lighters were hauled alongside our steamer, three 
 on the port bow and three on the starboard, and 
 boats crowded to the water's edge with coolies 
 in long ragged garments and turbans, mostly of 
 a dusky red and blue, the colours shining through 
 the coal dust which darkened their naturally 
 swarthy visages and forms. As these crowded 
 boats approached with their weird passengers, one 
 had an irresistible suggestion of Charon ferrying 
 lost souls across the Styx — there was generally 
 only one pair of oars, as the distance to the steamer 
 from the wharf was very short. Well, these were 
 our coal-slaves, upon whose cheap labour the speed 
 of our steamers depends quite as much as on their 
 own engines, one felt. From the boats they 
 scrambled into the lighters — some shovelled up the 
 coal into hand baskets of matting which others 
 lifted on to their shoulders and carried across a 
 narrow plank into the ship, forming a weird line of 
 
6 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 black figures silhouetted against the shining water. 
 The coolies worked hard and fast in a black mist 
 of coal dust and kept up a continual hubbub of 
 cries in Arabic and other strange tongues which 
 added to the weirdness of the scene. 
 
 Port Said looked very new and flimsy, and was 
 
 ^f^ Ghf?^ 5 
 
 COALING AT PORT SAID — AND AFTER ! 
 
 hopelessly vulgarised by flaming posters and ad- 
 vertisements of Western origin both in French and 
 English. Boats swarmed round the ship's side, and 
 swarthy eager-eyed hotel touts came aboard in Fez 
 caps, as well as a motley crowd of traders, Egyptian 
 conjurers, and European musicians who played the 
 latest popular waltzes. We were glad to escape 
 the coal dust and o-o ashore, where an intelligent 
 
THE VOYAGE 7 
 
 but probably not too scrupulous Egyptian guide 
 undertook to show us everything, and we went 
 with him round the town, passing through the 
 market crowded with the picturesque life of the 
 
 SPOILING THE EGYPTIANS? OR BEING DESPOILED F.Y THEM 
 
 SENSATION IN SOLAR TOPIS 
 
 East, which indeed showed itself everywhere 
 through the thin veneer of modern European 
 commercialism. A venerable - looking prophet 
 swept the streets, and, of course, there were plenty 
 of street arabs ready to turn " cart-wheels " or 
 anything that would turn a more or less honest 
 
8 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 penny in their direction, and the cry of " Backsheesh" 
 was raised on the slightest provocation. Our guide 
 took us into a small Mohammedan mosque, modern, 
 but, of course, strictly according to the traditional 
 plan and oriented towards Mecca. We had to put 
 on loose canvas shoes over our own shoes to enter 
 the sacred precincts, and our guide gave us a long 
 exposition of the necessary ablutions to be performed 
 by the faithful before and after prayers, and showed 
 us the water tank fitted with taps, at one of which 
 a devotee was busy having his wash. 
 
 The bazaar bristled with European goods, and 
 topis and cigarettes were much in evidence, though 
 there were some charming Egyptian fabrics in the 
 form of scarves brocaded with patterns in gold or 
 silver thread or black on white fine linen. 
 
 On the whitewashed walls of some of the houses 
 I noticed some primitive paintings in distemper, 
 apparently representing camels, travellers, and 
 palm-trees, done in profile. They were carried 
 horizontally across the front of the houses as a sort 
 of frieze, and were curiously suggestive in a child- 
 like way of a survival of the ancient Egyptian 
 method of decorating. Our guide said that they 
 indicated that the dweller in the house had visited 
 Mecca. Returning to "La Nera " we found her 
 indeed blacker than she was painted, as everything 
 on board was covered with a fine coal dust, which the 
 energy of the crew with copious hose-pipes eventu- 
 ally got rid of. The harbour of Port Said is always 
 busy, many liners and transports coming and 
 going, war vessels of various nationalities lying 
 at anchor, boats plying to and fro, and young, lithe, 
 
THE VOYAGE 9 
 
 brown-skinned natives on the quays, ready to dive 
 for silver pieces, crouching shivering on the edge of 
 the wharf, or in a boat, and crying in an almost con- 
 tinuous monotone, "a lamer," " a la mer," "a la 
 mer," until the hoped-for small coin is thrown 
 into the water, when they adroitly dive and intercept 
 it as it falls turning and glittering in the water, and 
 reappear with it in their mouths, which soon open 
 for more. 
 
 We started again at 12.30 for Suez, entering the 
 
 W£S~r 
 
 LAST 
 
 af^rftfeAy 
 
 THE SUEZ CANAL 
 
 canal. Our steamer was stopped at the first village 
 to allow two steamers to pass — the " Clan Campbell " 
 of Glasgow and the " Herefordshire " of Liverpool. 
 
 The weather was quite cool and cloudy and it 
 turned out a showery afternoon. Flocks of pelicans 
 were seen on the waters of the wide shallow lakes 
 we passed. There was a stormy sunset, and there 
 was lightning after nightfall, but later the moon 
 shone brightly, falling on the wan sand of the banks, 
 which had quite the effect of snow under its clear 
 cold light. 
 
 The steamer moved slowly through the canal at 
 about the rate of five knots. A passenger was 
 landed at Ismailia, after which we entered the 
 
io INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 bitter lakes, and next morning we were within 
 fifteen miles from Suez, but our steamer had to stop 
 owing to a transport ship having got aground ahead 
 of us. A German steamer was close behind us, 
 and while waiting many of the passengers landed 
 and roamed about on the desert sand. It was not 
 long, however, before the transport was got off, and 
 she presently passed us, a huge white steamer 
 named the " Rena," crowded with English 
 "Tommies" homeward bound. 
 
 The passage of the Suez Canal is very interesting 
 and comes as a welcome relief after tossing on the 
 open sea out of sight of land. The long level lines 
 of the sandy desert have a reposeful effect, but fine 
 ranges of mountains are often seen beyond, and the 
 desert is frequently varied with the 
 
 " strip of herbage strown " 
 
 embroidered with palm-trees, and these elements of 
 Egyptian landscape steeped in the translucent 
 atmosphere are relieved by striking bronze-coloured 
 figures in blue robes and swarthy Arabs in white in 
 the foreground on the sand-banks, or an occasional 
 string of camels. 
 
 We reached Suez about midday and anchored 
 off the town. The Consul's tug paid us a visit, 
 and our vessel was soon surrounded by a small 
 fleet of picturesque craft with lateen sails, and 
 gunwales painted with eyes, and in the semblance 
 of quaint fish in bands of green and white, manned 
 by swarthy Arabs and Egyptians. These brought 
 cargo and provisions to be hoisted on board, and 
 the process took an hour or two, but in the after- 
 
THE VOYAGE n 
 
 noon we steamed away again and entered the Red 
 Sea. 
 
 The weather grew perceptibly warmer, but was 
 still not oppressive, and there was a cool breeze in 
 the evening. There was a beautiful roseate liorht 
 at afterglow on the eastern shore, where Mount 
 Sinai was pointed out, and the well of Moses, and 
 the traditional place of the Israelites' passage of the 
 Red Sea. The sun set in gold and purple behind a 
 bold range of craggy mountains on our starboard 
 side, and a splendid moonlight night succeeded, the 
 moon nearlv at full. 
 
 On the morning of the 28th November we passed 
 "The Brothers" lightships to starboard, and the 
 next day we were out of sight of land, w r ith a 
 pleasant breeze under the double awnings of the 
 upper deck, enjoying the best summer weather, 
 which we should think ourselves lucky to have in 
 England. The Red Sea was really as blue as the 
 Mediterranean, though of course subject to changes 
 according to the sky, which turned to a wonderful 
 clear greenish gold after sunset, powdered with 
 small dark clouds which floated across it ; a violet 
 Mush above the gold blending it into the deep 
 blue of the upper sky, the small floating clouds 
 against it showing ashy grey, while against the 
 gold of the afterglow they looked nearly black, the 
 sea being of a rather cold metallic blue. The 
 serene weather and the splendour of the moonlit 
 nights continued, but the temperature rose 
 considerably, reaching 88° Fahr. in our cabin, 
 which was on the starboard side of the ship. It is 
 as well to remember that port side cabins are 
 
12 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 cooler for the outward voyage, and those on the 
 starboard side for the homeward voyage, as going 
 eastwards the heat of the sun falls on the starboard 
 side necessarily for the greater part of the day, 
 while going westwards of course the reverse is the 
 case. This applies more particularly to the Red 
 
 Sea. 
 
 On November 30th we passed the island of 
 
 f 
 
 THE PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA 
 
 (Therm : 88 D or so !) 
 
 Jubbelteer, on which was a lighthouse, and later, 
 " The Twelve Apostles," a series of rocky volcanic- 
 looking islands of bold and angular outline, and 
 apparently barren. Sea-birds, however, were seen 
 with black and white bodies and brown wings flying 
 close to the water. 
 
 On December the 1st we passed Mocha, of 
 coffee celebrity, and the island of Perrim, where 
 there are lighthouses and signal stations, but, like 
 the other islands we had seen, otherwise desolate 
 in the extreme. Later the Arabian coast came 
 into view and the sea was dotted with the sails of 
 Arab dhows. The coast as we approached Aden 
 showed volcanic-looking mountains, striking in form 
 
THE VOYAGE 13 
 
 and bold in outline, with stretches of sand and rock 
 between. Aden was reached about 2 p.m., a school 
 of dolphins playing about the ship as if to welcome 
 our arrival. 
 
 Aden looked a queer uninviting place, baked dry- 
 by the sun — a cluster of temporary and barrack-like 
 buildings huddled together anyhow along the rocky 
 coast, with never a tree to be seen ; the ragged, 
 precipitous, barren edges of extinct volcanoes form- 
 ing a background to the red-roofed barracks and 
 bungalows. 
 
 Several large white warships lay at anchor in the 
 harbour, and lent a touch of gay colour by being 
 decked with strings of bunting- from stem to stern 
 in honour of our Queen Alexandra's birthday. A 
 German liner got in just before us and we saw the 
 coal lighters being rowed up to her. " La Nera " 
 coaled here also, but it was a less grimy proceeding 
 than at Port Said, as the coal was in sacks. The 
 type of coolies, too, was very different, and there 
 were many African negroes (Soumalis) among 
 them, whose skins could hardly be made blacker 
 than they were by nature. In addition to its 
 cluster of coaling lighters, our vessel, now at anchor, 
 was soon surrounded by boats filled with natives 
 who swarmed round the gangways, and soon 
 invaded the ship — a crowd of Soumali traders 
 offering ostrich feathers and feather fans (of a 
 European look), ostrich eggs, wicker bottle-shaped 
 baskets, shell necklaces, and amber beads, who 
 drove their trade amongst the passengers on deck, 
 whilst others endeavoured to catch their eyes from 
 the boats. Thin, lithe young natives with fuzzy 
 
14 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 hair were very numerous, and some had dyed their 
 hair red, which had a grotesque effect with the 
 black skin. I noted a strange contrast in the same 
 boat, too, which contained two natives, one of whom 
 wore a sort of large-checked suit of pyjamas with his 
 mop of red-dyed hair, while his companion had his 
 head clean shaved with " nodings on"! Some 
 natives seemed to have used face powder — at 
 
 IN THE SAME BOAT — A CONTRAST AT ADEN 
 
 any rate had smeared some kind of whitening 
 over their countenances with ghastly effect. 
 
 The scene was a stranoe one altogether. The 
 crowd of Europeans on deck, in which nearly every 
 nationality was represented, mostly clad in topis 
 and white garments, the black traders moving 
 about them ; the swarm of boats at the sides of the 
 vessel full of bright spots of colour — scarlet turbans, 
 white, orange, yellow, and purple in the costumes 
 — swaying on the turquoise-coloured sea ; brown- 
 backed gulls flapping over the water and kites hover- 
 ing over the harbour ; and all steeped in the bright 
 sunshine of the East. Many of the passengers went 
 
THE VOYAGE 15 
 
 ashore in the native boats, but the scene seemed more 
 amusing from the ship and we remained on deck. 
 
 Aden itself looked more interesting- at night, with 
 bright lights here and there on the shore and on 
 the ships, and the rising moon translated every- 
 thing into terms of mystery and romance. 
 
 I watched an Arab dhow set sail. It is one of 
 the most beautiful of sailing vessels, and has a 
 high old-fashioned poop — the line of the gunwale 
 making a fine curve from stem to stern — a main- 
 mast with a big lateen sail, two jibs on a short 
 bowsprit, and a secondary smaller mast astern. 
 The sun set behind the Arabian coast, the jagged 
 peaks of which we had previously passed. The 
 coaling did not finish till nightfall. The coolies 
 seemed to undertake all the mechanical arrange- 
 ments for the work, fixing the hauling gear and the 
 necessary ropes and planks, and often in the process 
 seeming to hang on to the ship with little more 
 than their eyelids. When they pulled a rope 
 together the cry to keep time sounded like 
 " Leesah ! " or " Leeshah ! " with emphasis on the 
 first syllable. 
 
 The coaling finished, and the curious swarm of 
 native life that had surrounded us departed, " La 
 Nera " weighed anchor and pursued her course 
 eastwards, skirting the rocky coast bathed in the 
 moonlight as she made tor the open Arabian 
 Sea. 
 
 The next day in the early morning we had sight 
 of some flying-fish. They have almost the appear- 
 ance of swallows at a distance, especially when seen 
 against the light, but, glancing, as they leap out of 
 
16 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 the water, to disappear into it again very quickly, 
 they flash in the sun like silver. 
 
 The Arabian coast was still faintly visible 
 towards the north, but gradually faded from view. 
 The pleasant light breeze continued and it was not 
 nearly so hot as in the Red Sea, in fact quite 
 pleasant either on deck or below — especially with 
 a "windle" fixed to the cabin port. 
 
 We had made an interesting acquaintance on 
 board, a French gentleman who knew India well 
 and who was on his way to revisit that country, 
 intending to join an English friend there on a 
 shooting expedition. He was an old sportsman and 
 had shot bio- rame in Tibet. He united the keen- 
 ness and experience of a sportsman with literary 
 tastes and a love of history and archaeology. This 
 gentleman introduced us to "the green ray," a 
 phenomenon peculiar to the Eastern seas, I believe. 
 Just at the moment when the sun disappears beneath 
 the horizon there is the appearance of a vivid green 
 spark flashing like a gem which seems to detach 
 itself from the glowing orb and fly upward, instantly 
 disappearing in the reddening haze. We witnessed 
 this on several occasions, but in order to see it a 
 clear sunset is absolutely necessary — that is to say 
 that one must be able to see the sun sink below 
 the horizon clear of cloud. The lovely moonlight 
 nights continued, the moon being now ahead, and 
 the apparent goal of the vessel's course. One night, 
 however, was disturbed by the steamer stopping in 
 mid-ocean. One gets so accustomed to the throb 
 of the engines on board a steamer that its sudden 
 cessation is quite startling. Passengers clustered 
 
THE VOYAGE 
 
 i7 
 
 near the engine-room to learn the cause, which 
 turned out to be something wrong with " a 
 washer " which affected the movement of the shaft. 
 After about three hours this was repaired and the 
 " Nera " continued her course. She generally made 
 about 300 miles in the twenty-four hours. 
 
 Incidents in the Indian Ocean were few and far 
 between. Flying-fish were to be seen, but only in 
 
 SOME TYTES AMONG OUR FELLOW PASSENGER 
 
 the early morning as a rule ; a whale was noticed 
 spouting, and two sharks were sighted. I saw, too, 
 a large turtle turn over close to the ship's side, but 
 such sights very occasionally varied the wide sea- 
 scape, and many were glad to turn to deck games 
 or bridge for diversion, if they could not find it in 
 books, or in observing their fellow passengers. 
 
 Certainly amongst these latter there was no want 
 of interest or variety ; they were quite an inter- 
 national group, and included English and Anglo- 
 Indians returning after leave of absence in Europe 
 
18 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 to take up their official duties, civil or military, on 
 new appointments with their wives and families ; 
 a large proportion of French (it being a French 
 steamer) ; then there were Portuguese and Dutch 
 (going out to Australia), Germans and Canadians, 
 Armenians from Rangoon, and Indians from 
 Bombay ; several Armenian priests also, probably 
 missionaries ; there were negroes and Arabs in the 
 fo'castle, and among the second-class passengers 
 a characteristic group of English workmen — 
 foremen engineers and navvies. They were bound 
 for Bombay, having been engaged to direct coolie 
 labour on new and extensive docks at that port, 
 their contract being for three years, and their 
 passage paid. I think they got very tired of doing 
 nothing and did not feel quite happy with the French 
 dinners, although the heaviest man of the party 
 made it a rule to devour everything that was set 
 before him, taking Saint Paul's advice, and "asking- 
 no questions." I think all the ages of man — and 
 woman — were represented on board, including 
 more than one infant " mewling and puling in its 
 nurse's arms." A little sample of the big world 
 chipped off and sent adrift on the ocean — a ship 
 of life, not without its enigmas, its little ironies and 
 uncertainties, tossed upon the very type of uncer- 
 tainty — the sea. 
 
 A ship, however, is a castle of indolence as far 
 as the passengers are concerned, though the crew, 
 I suspect, would tell a very different story, as, apart 
 from the severe work of the engineers and stokers, 
 their work never seems at an end, and it is only 
 by constant washing, scrubbing, and sweeping 
 
THE VOYAGE 19 
 
 that a steamer can be kept decently clean and 
 habitable. 
 
 To break the monotony of the five days' voyage 
 on the Indian Ocean a concert was got up by an 
 energetic young lady and her friends. They went 
 round the ship to discover what hidden musical 
 or histrionic talent might be concealed under the 
 more or less disguised personalities of the passen- 
 gers, and they succeeded in drawing out enough 
 for an evening's entertainment on the saloon deck, 
 which was picturesquely draped with bunting for 
 the occasion, and a piano was wheeled into position. 
 Various songs were given, and a French princess, 
 who was among the passengers, recited. The 
 young lady who had been the leading spirit in 
 organising the concert herself gave some charming 
 songs which she accompanied on a guitar, and a 
 pretty song in Japanese costume and umbrella from 
 " The Geisha," I think, with much spirit. The pro- 
 ceeds went to the benefit of the orphans of the 
 Messageries Maritimes sailors. 
 
 After this violent excitement the days passed as 
 days do at sea, the fine weather continuing with 
 delightful monotony. The fresh easterly breeze was 
 strong enough to fleck the blue plain with " white 
 horses," yet not cause any trying movement of the 
 vessel, which ploughed steadily through the waves, 
 driving the spray from its bows, and causing danc- 
 ing rainbows on the foamy crests as they rebounded 
 from the ship's side. The sun rising in clear glory 
 from the sea, disappeared each evening in tranquil 
 splendour, showing the green ray, and the deep red 
 along the horizon in the west afterwards, over the 
 
2o INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 dark blue sea. The dark blue above and the illumin- 
 ated sky between, recalled the favourite effect in 
 Japanese prints by Hiroshigi, and at the same time 
 testified to its truth. 
 
 But all things have an end, even ocean voyages, 
 and about four o'clock on the morning of Friday, 
 December the 7th, our steamer slowed down and 
 took on board the pilot, and we, cautiously steering 
 past mysterious islands under the dawn, finally cast 
 anchor in Bombay harbour. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 BOMBAY AND THE CAVES OF ELLORA 
 
 THE first impression of Bombay from the sea is 
 perhaps a little disappointing from the 
 pictorial point of view. The town spreads along 
 the low flat coast, lined with long quays without any 
 great domes or conspicuous noble buildings. One 
 is aware of wharves and factory chimneys, and even 
 the palms and gardens of Malabar Hill, and blue 
 mountains inland do not altogether mitigate the 
 commercial and industrial aspects of the place ; but 
 the light and colour of the East fuse all sorts of 
 incongruities, and the feeling of touching a strange 
 land and of setting foot for the first time in India 
 is sufficiently exciting to throw a sort of glamour 
 over everything. 
 
 The steamers cannot disembark their passengers 
 at the quays, so they have to be landed in boats 
 which cluster about the sides of the big liner. The 
 official tug comes alongside first, and the official 
 visit is paid. We were due the evening before, and 
 inquiries as to the why and wherefore of the delay 
 had to be satisfied. Busy agents and eager hotel 
 touts come on board, and all is bustle and prepara- 
 tion for landing. 
 
 Our Indian friend had been unexpectedly called 
 away and was unable to meet us, but he committed 
 
22 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 us to the care of other friends at Bombay. We 
 landed, however, with our friend the French 
 explorer, with all our baggage, in a native boat, and 
 by dint of a ragged lateen sail and oars plied by 
 a swarthy, wild-looking crew, soon reached the quay, 
 where a crowd of coolies waited to spring upon our 
 belongings. 
 
 Our French friend spoke Hindustanee fluently, 
 
 LANDING AT BOMBAY 
 
 fortunately for us ; and amid the clamour of tongues 
 which surrounded us, was able to arrange for an 
 ox-cart to take our united baggage to the Custom- 
 House, where, after an interview with some languid 
 English officials clad in white drill and topis, having 
 nothing contraband, we were duly passed, though 
 our friend, possessing firearms, was delayed longer, 
 and of course had to pay. The Bombay ox-carts 
 are two-wheeled with high sides of timber, forming 
 a square open lattice, and drawn by a pair of oxen. 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 23 
 
 Committing our worldly goods to this delightful 
 prehistoric vehicle, we took a carriage — a little, one- 
 horse, open victoria, which is the street cab of 
 Bombay, and similar to those in use in the towns of 
 Italy — and drove to the Taj-Mahal Hotel, a vast, 
 new, modern caravanserai — which, however, was 
 quite full, so we went on to the old-established 
 " Watson's " on the Esplanade, where we got a good 
 
 AWAITING THE CUSTOMS — BOMBAY 
 
 room with a balcony and a view. There was also 
 a pleasant covered terrace, or verandah, extending 
 the whole length of the building, which on the north 
 side, always in shade, faced a garden green with 
 well-watered lawns and thickly planted with um- 
 brageous mango and banyan trees, amid which 
 the ubiquitous crows of India (resembling our 
 hooded crow) kept up a continual cawing chorus 
 as they flitted about, now swooping down on some 
 ill-considered trifle in the street, or perching 
 expectantly about the hotel precincts, on the look- 
 out for scattered crumbs. Great brown kites 
 
24 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 hovered in the air, forming a second line of watch- 
 ful but silent scavengers. The terrace also 
 commanded a view of the street with all its varied 
 
 STREET PERFORMERS — BOMBAY 
 
 types in costume, race, and colour and character. 
 The prosperous, sleek Parsee merchant in his 
 curious shiny, sloping high hat, long black alpaca 
 or white tunic, and loose white nether garments and 
 umbrella ; Europeans in white drill and grey or 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 2 
 
 5 
 
 white pith helmets, which gave a superficial family 
 likeness to all who wore them ; native servants, 
 Hindu, Portuguese, and half-caste, in every variety 
 of turban and costume, sitting or standing about in 
 groups, waiting to be hired ; wandering minstrels, 
 dancing women, and jugglers and tumblers trying to 
 catch the eye — and the small change — of the travel- 
 ler ; men with tom-toms and performing monkeys 
 water-carriers with their dripping goat-skin slung 
 at their side, coolies and coolie women constantly 
 passing to and fro from the quays, bearing their 
 burdens on their heads ; the bearer and the ayah 
 in charge of faired-haired English children, passing 
 in and out of the gardens ; the British soldier in 
 khaki, and the native policeman in blue with a flat 
 yellow cap. These and such as these were the 
 prevailing types in the scene from the hotel balcony, 
 from whence, also, we could see the tram-cars, 
 drawn by horses in big white topis, trailing up and 
 down the Esplanade, while motors flashed by, and 
 smart European ladies drove in their dog-carts. 
 Beyond the trees of the garden rose a modern 
 clock-tower which told the burning hours in the 
 familiar Westminster chimes. 
 
 The modern British buildings of Bombay would pro- 
 bably in newspaper language be described as "hand- 
 some." There were many showy and pretentious 
 structures in a sort of Italian Gothic style, but they 
 looked imported, and were decidedly out of place in a 
 country which possesses such magnificent specimens 
 of architecture of its own growth — as one might say. 
 The many balconied and shuttered fronts, with 
 projecting stories, the ridge-tiled roofs and plastered 
 
26 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 walls that we saw in the older quarters of the town 
 seemed, as types of dwelling-houses at least, much 
 moresuitable and characteristic, andsuch types would 
 surely be capable of adaptation to modern require- 
 ments. The Crawford Market is one of the sights 
 of Bombay. Outside, with its steep roofs, belfry, and 
 projecting eaves it has a rather English Gothic look, 
 but inside the scene is entirely oriental, crowded 
 with natives in all sorts of colours, moving among 
 fish, fruit, grain, and provisions of all kinds, buying 
 and selling amid a clamour of tongues — a busy 
 scene of colour and variety, in a symphony of 
 smells, dominated by that of the smoke of joss-sticks 
 kept burning at some of the stalls as well as a 
 suspicion of opium, which pervades all the native 
 quarters in Indian cities. There is a sort of court or 
 garden enclosed by the buildings, and here the live 
 stock is kept — all sorts of birds and animals. 
 
 A drive through the native bazaar of Bombay is 
 a revelation. The carriage works its way with 
 difficulty through the narrow, irregular street, crowded 
 with natives in every variety of costume (or next to 
 no costume), forming a wonderful moving pattern 
 of brilliant colour, punctuated by swarthy faces, 
 gleaming eyes, and white teeth. Shops of every 
 kind line each side of the way, and these are rather 
 dark and cavernous openings, shaded by awnings 
 and divided by posts or carved pillars on the 
 lowest story, but raised from the level of the streets 
 by low platforms which serve the purposes of 
 counter and working bench to the native merchant 
 or craftsman who squats upon it, and often unites 
 the two functions in his own person. He generally 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 27 
 
 carries on his work in the presence of his whole 
 family, apparently. All ages and sexes crowd in 
 and about the shops, carrying- on a perpetual con- 
 versazione, and the bazaar literally swarms with 
 dusky, turbaned faces, varied by the deep red sari 
 of the Hindu women, with their glittering armlets 
 and anklets, or the veiled Mohammedan in her — 
 well, pyjamas ! 
 
 The older house fronts above the shops were 
 often rich with carving and colour, the upper stories 
 being generally supported over the open shop by 
 four columns. It reminded one of the arrangement 
 of a mediaeval street, as also in its general aspect, 
 the shops being mostly workshops ; and, as in the 
 old days in Europe, could be seen different crafts 
 in full operation, while the finished products of 
 each were displayed for sale. There were tailors 
 stitching away at garments, coppersmiths hammering 
 their metal into shape, leather workersjewellers, cook- 
 shops, and many more, the little dark shops in most 
 cases beinor crowded with other figures besides those 
 of the workers — each like a miniature stage of life 
 with an abundance of drama going on in all. The 
 whole bazaar, too, was gay with colour — white, 
 green, red, orange, yellow, and purple, of all sorts 
 of shades and tones, in turban or robe — a perfect 
 feast for the eye. 
 
 In the course of our drive through the bazaar 
 we met no less than three wedding processions, 
 though rather broken and interrupted by the traffic. 
 In one the bridegroom (who, with the Hindus and 
 Mohammedans, is considered the most important 
 personage in the ceremony as well as the spectacle) 
 
28 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 was in a carriage, on his way to fetch the bride, in 
 gorgeous raiment and with a crown upon his head. 
 He was followed by people bearing floral trophies, 
 perhaps intended for decoration afterwards. These 
 consisted of gilt vases with artificial flowers in 
 them, arranged in rows close together, and carried 
 in convenient lengths on a plank or shelf by young 
 men bearers. 
 
 Another of the bridegrooms was mounted on a 
 horse, crowned and robed like a Byzantine emperor 
 with glittering caparisons and housings, a tiny 
 little dusky girl sitting behind him and holding 
 on, who was said to be his little sister. 
 
 The third bridegroom we saw was veiled, in 
 addition to the bravery of his glittering attire. 
 Flowers were strewn by boys accompanying him, 
 and a little bunch fell into our carriage as we 
 waited for the procession to go by, in which, of 
 course, the musicians went before. We afterwards 
 passed the house where the wedding was being 
 celebrated, the guests assembling in great numbers 
 to the feast, a tremendous noise oroina- on, drums 
 beating and trumpets blowing. In one of the 
 processions very antique-looking trumpets or horns 
 were carried of a large size, much resembling the 
 military horns of ancient Roman times. These 
 were Hindu weddings. 
 
 We also had a glimpse of a Parsee wedding. 
 This was in the open court of a large house ar- 
 caded from the street, brilliantly illuminated, where 
 sat a great crowd of guests all attired in white. 
 
 Working right through the native bazaar we 
 reached the Victoria Gardens, a sort of Kew and 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 29 
 
 Zoological rolled into one, being well stocked with 
 fine palms and many varieties of tropical trees, as 
 well as birds and animals, and all looking in good 
 condition and well kept. Many Eurasians were 
 here walking about, looking very weird in European 
 dress. In these gardens are situated the Victoria 
 and Albert Museum of Bombay. 
 
 Sir George Birdwood had given me an introduc- 
 tion to H.H. the Aga Khan and we drove out to 
 his abode, only to find, however, that His Highness 
 had gone to Calcutta on his way to Japan. I was 
 not much more fortunate with my other intro- 
 ductions to the eminent Parsee Sir Jamsetji 
 Jijibhai, and Sir Cowasji Jehangir Readymoney. 
 Although the son of the latter magnate did call 
 upon us and brought us an invitation from Lady 
 Jehangir, we were unable to accept it owing to the 
 shortness of our stay in Bombay. I understood 
 that the Calcutta Races in December attracted a 
 great many of the rich Bombay residents, and 
 this accounted for the absence from their homes 
 of many at that time. 
 
 We had a glimpse of some of the palaces on 
 Malabar Hill, seeing the latter first against a 
 glowing sunset. Fringed with palms and plantains, 
 with its fantastic buildings silhouetted on the sky, 
 it recalled the banks of storm cloud I had seen 
 on the voyage, with their vaporous trees and 
 aerial hanging gardens. 
 
 A closer acquaintance did not impress us with 
 any conviction of the healthiness of Malabar 
 Hill, though of the sumptuousness of its houses, 
 and often their fantastic character, and the luxuri- 
 
30 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 ance of its palms and gardens, there could be no 
 doubt. We passed the grey wall of the Tower of 
 Silence, the burial (?) place of the Parsees, where the 
 crows, the kites, and the vultures were gathered 
 together, but did not linger there. From the hill 
 there is certainly a magnificent view of the city of 
 Bombay : especially if seen just before sundown, 
 when a golden glow seems to transfigure the scene ; 
 and later, looking down on the vast plain, the 
 white houses partly hid in trees scattered along 
 the shore, the quays, and the ships at anchor in 
 the bay, all seem to sink like a dream into the 
 roseate atmosphere of sunset. But even that 
 lovely light is darkened by a heavy smoke cloud 
 drifting on the city from the forest of gaunt factory 
 chimneys rising in the East like the shadow of 
 poverty which is always cast by the riches of 
 the West. 
 
 One rather wondered that Bombay was content 
 to allow its best drive to be disfigured by a con- 
 tinuous succession of hideous commercial posters 
 painted along the walls of one of its sides, the 
 other being lined with palms and open towards the 
 sea. This is, however, not worse indifference — in 
 fact not so bad — as ours at home in allowing the 
 posters along the railway lines to disfigure the 
 charming and varied landscape of our own country. 
 
 One of the first necessities to the traveller in 
 India, especially if he be ignorant of Hindustanee, is 
 the engaging of a native bearer or servant. There 
 is always a large class of these seeking engage- 
 ments. They may be seen hanging about Messrs 
 Cook's Tourist Offices in groups. They usually 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 31 
 
 wear white clothes and turbans, but the half-caste 
 Portuguese are dressed in semi- European fashion 
 with their cloth suits and small, flat, round caps of 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH CANDIDATES FOR THE POST OF BEARER — 
 MOSTLY UNBEARABLE ! 
 
 the sort which used to be termed "pork pie" in 
 England, only lower. These are embroidered 
 round the rim, and a similar sort of head covering 
 is also worn by superior caste Hindus. For the 
 post of bearer the traveller will find plenty of 
 applicants when he makes his requirements known, 
 
32 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 in fact their number is rather embarrassing", and 
 they all produce "chits" or letters of recommenda- 
 tion from former employers. These, indeed, are 
 the only references to go upon, unless one happens 
 to come with the personal testimony of a friend. 
 The bearers mostly register their names at Cook's 
 offices, but they do not take any responsibility 
 there for them in any way. These native servants 
 expect 35 rupees (and upwards) a month, with an 
 allowance for clothes, but out of this pay they 
 find their own food. If, however, their food is 
 provided, they take less pay — about 25 rupees — 
 but prices generally have an upward tendency. 
 The engagement may probably be for three or 
 four months, which gives the ordinary European 
 tourist time to get round India, visiting; the 
 principal places of interest en route. A rupee 
 in India is now only worth one shilling and four- 
 pence, and fifteen rupees are the equivalent of a 
 sovereign, it should be remembered. 
 
 Of course the bearer's travelling expenses and 
 washing are paid as long as he is with his master, 
 and his fare home when his en^a^ement comes to 
 an end, and then, too, probably he would get a 
 present if his conduct has been satisfactory. One 
 does not generally expect mirrors of virtue and 
 trustiness on such terms. No doubt native bearers 
 vary considerably in capacity and experience as 
 well as in appearance, to say nothing of honesty 
 and fidelity, and some are better as couriers than as 
 body or camp servants, or vice versa. Some claim 
 to be efficient valets des places in addition to 
 ordinary services, but it should be remembered 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 33 
 
 that the bearer caste are not allowed to enter the 
 sacred precincts of the great temples in India. Our 
 choice, influenced mainly by a personal recom- 
 mendation, fell on one Moonsawmy — a not unusual 
 Hindu name. He had been in the service of Sir 
 Samuel Baker and had had some experience in 
 tiger-shooting, or at any rate had been out on such 
 expeditions and in camp with the famous traveller 
 and sportsman, but he had also acted as courier to 
 English parties travelling in India, and professed 
 to know the country well. We had planned an 
 excursion to the caves of Ellora from Bombay with 
 our friend M. Dauvergne, who had never seen them 
 and was anxious to do so. Having mapped out our 
 route we started on our expedition on December the 
 10th. Leaving Victoria Station, Bombay, at noon, 
 we travelled by the G. I. P. (Great Indian Penin- 
 sular Railway), making our first train journey in 
 India. The line crossed a cultivated plain at first, 
 getting clear of Bombay ; groups of date palms here 
 and there were suggestive of Egypt. We passed 
 native villages of different types, some with thatched 
 roofs and some with tile — brown ridge tiles not unlike 
 what one sees in Italy, and even corrugated iron 
 was visible (alas !) here and there. The low huts 
 built of sun-dried bricks or mud with flat roofs were 
 the strangest and most eastern-looking. One could 
 get glimpses, too, of the inhabitants, the Hindu 
 women in saris, often of red or purple or blue, 
 bearing on their heads water jars or bright brass or 
 copper vessels, with much natural grace, some also 
 carrying little brown babies supported by one arm 
 on their hip. 
 
34 IXDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Leaving the plains we entered a very interesting 
 hill country covered with jungle and forests where 
 we saw many teak trees and banyans, besides 
 many varieties of acacia. Mountains of striking form 
 came into view, suggestive of castled crags. We 
 soon afterwards passed the Thull Ghat, where the 
 line rises as much as 1050 feet in a distance of 
 about ten miles — which means a steep gradient. We 
 passed rice fields, also sugar canes, and a kind of 
 Indian corn, but not maize, and castor-oil plants 
 which are cultivated extensively. There were 
 interesting and picturesque groups of natives at all 
 the stations. Finally Munmad was reached towards 
 six o'clock in the evening. This was our first stage, 
 and the junction for Daulatabad our next, in the 
 territory of the Nizam of Hyderabad. We, how- 
 ever, decided to stay the night at Munmad and go 
 on the next morning — in fact, if I remember right, 
 it was a case of necessity, as there was no train on 
 that evening. So we were conducted to the Dak 
 Bungalow, some little walk from the station, through 
 a native village, with our baggage carried on the 
 heads of women coolies. We found the bungalow 
 a most inhospitable place of incredible bareness, 
 and nothing to sleep on but narrow wooden framed 
 couches, having a sort of stringy webbing full of 
 holes. The gaunt draughty rooms were almost 
 destitute of other furniture and had no conveniences 
 of any kind. The native keeper of the place seemed 
 helpless. There was no food to be had, and he 
 could not have cooked it if there had been, so we 
 had to make shift as best we could with what we 
 had in our tea baskets. I should not advise any 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 35 
 
 one to travel in India, at least at all off the track 
 of hotels, without provisions and bedding. There 
 was not much sleep to be had that night. The 
 beds were frightfully uncomfortable and the room 
 was cold. An Anglo- Indian official on the forest 
 service occupied the best room, we afterwards 
 
 
 
 A BED AT THE DAK BUNGALOW ! MUMMAD (KEEP IT DA(R)k) 
 
 discovered, but he, as is usual, travelled with his 
 horses and several servants, including a cook, and 
 a supply of necessaries of all sorts. We left the 
 inhospitable bungalow early the next morning, 
 processing through the village in the same way 
 as that in which we had come, with our baggage on 
 the heads of the coolie women. We made the ac- 
 quaintance at Munmad of the charming, frisky little 
 
36 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 palm squirrels which abound everywhere in India — 
 delightful little greenish-grey creatures with dark 
 longitudinal stripes extending from their noses to 
 their tails. They play about the dwellings quite 
 familiarly, but are off like a shot up a tree and out 
 of sight at the smallest alarm. Scaling the trunk 
 of a tree spirally, they have almost the appearance 
 of lizards, and they are certainly as nimble. 
 
 The buffalo cow, too, is seen in every Indian 
 village, a strange, dusky, rough-coated beast, with a 
 weird, half-human, but rather sinister expression in 
 its dark eyes, with long horns turned back upon 
 their necks. They walk scornfully along to be 
 milked, with an air which seems to say they 
 thought the world but a poor place. 
 
 We took train to Daulatabad and entered the 
 Nizam's territory. A police officer in his service 
 was in the train, and was very intelligent and gave 
 us much useful information. We now passed 
 through a more arid-looking country than before, 
 where cactuses and low trees grew sparsely on 
 burnt yellow slopes and rocky hills, often of strange 
 form, the country showing signs of a great upheaval 
 from the sea. 
 
 At Daulatabad, a small road station, a tonga 
 was waiting for us, drawn by two poor broken-down 
 ponies and a rather ragged red-turbaned driver. 
 Our destination was the town of Rozah, a drive of 
 some ten miles and mostly uphill, on a loose, rough 
 road. 
 
 A conspicuous object in the landscape at Daula- 
 tabad is the ancient fortress upon a steep hill rising 
 abruptly from the plain. It was a famous strong- 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA $7 
 
 hold, but was conquered by the Mohammedans in 
 the thirteenth century. There are the ruins of the 
 ancient city which it once protected, and within the 
 citadel are remains of Hindu temples, one trans- 
 formed into a mosque by the Moslems. Our road 
 lay through the shattered gates which still marked 
 the extent of the city with fragments of the outer 
 walls, the whole area overgrown with trees and 
 herbage, and clusters of native huts here and there. 
 The road to Rozah is an almost continuous ascent, 
 and in some places very steep, which made it very 
 hard work for the wretched ponies which dragged 
 our tonga, though, of course, we relieved it of our 
 weight by walking up the worst hills. The sun 
 was blazing, but there was a little shade to be had 
 occasionally under the fine banyan trees which 
 skirted the roadside. 
 
 Towards evening we saw the domes of Rozah 
 on a high plateau in front of us, and presently 
 entered the town through a battlemented gate. It 
 was a Mohammedan town with many important 
 domed tombs, but it had a neglected and sparsely 
 peopled aspect and a look of departed splendour. 
 We made our way along a straggling street, and, 
 passing through another gate, came out upon the 
 other end of the plateau, from which we saw, open- 
 ing before us as far as the eye could reach towards 
 the west, the vast, green, fruitful plains of the Deccan. 
 In command of this view we found our quarters 
 for the night — the Travellers' Bungalow — but this, 
 the Nizam's bungalow, was a great contrast to the 
 one at Munmad, being clean and comfortable, with 
 good beds and sufficient furniture and rugs, and a 
 
3S INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 bath-room. The native in charge was able to pro- 
 vide food, too, and to cook a dinner, which, if not 
 exactly Parisian, was, at all events, a vast improve- 
 ment upon our last one. The sun set without a 
 cloud, the last golden light lingering upon the white 
 and black domes of the tombs around us. Then 
 followed the afterglow, and then the darkness fell 
 like a curtain, but the stars were intensely bright in 
 the clear sky. The air was very pure and the 
 silence of the place was profound. We were glad 
 to rest after our long, hot, dusty journey, but I 
 managed to get a sketch done before the light went. 
 
 After breakfast the next morning (December 12) 
 we started to walk to the caves at Ellora, which we 
 found were only a short distance down the hill. 
 A winding road led us past another of the Nizam's 
 bungalows to a sort of terrace in front of the first 
 great cave, or, more properly, rock-cut temple, 
 the Kylas, which, coming down the hill from above, 
 one does not see until close upon it, and it is only 
 on entering the court through the great gateway 
 that one slowly realises the wonder of it. A huge 
 temple of symmetric ground plan cut clean out of 
 the great cliff, the straight sides of which are seen 
 rising like a vast wall above it. A mass of intricate 
 and richly carved detail, a veritable incrustation of 
 carving of extraordinary richness rises before one. 
 Standing clear in a spacious court, enclosed on three 
 sides by a deep arcade cut in the sheer sides of the 
 cliff (which shows the tool marks), having an outer 
 row of massive detached columns and an inner row 
 of engaged columns, and deep recessed chambers. 
 
 On each side of the entrance to the temple in 
 
THE KYLAS, CAVES OF ELLORA 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLOKA 39 
 
 the court stand two isolated columns or pylons, and 
 near these two great stone elephants. These 
 columns and elephants really flank a big pedestal 
 
 \ 0BMW 
 
 WE ARE INTRODUCED TO THE CAVES OF ELLORA 
 
 of stone with steps cut in it which lead up to a 
 huge image of a Sacred Bull within a square 
 chamber, from which a bridge is crossed and the 
 portico of the temple is reached. Through this the 
 great central hall, or nave, of the temple is entered, 
 
40 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 divided into four parts by groups of pillars, leaving 
 an open passage up the middle and across to a 
 portico on each side. From this chamber a few- 
 steps lead to the shrine of the Lingam, through a 
 doorway. There are steps and doorways to each 
 side of the shrine which lead on to open platforms, 
 where are five recesses richly covered with 
 sculptures of the Hindu mythology, as indeed is 
 the whole temple, both within and without. The 
 carved treatment and the whole idea of the scheme 
 suggests that the original prototypes of such 
 temples must have been structures of wood, and the 
 elaborate treatment and small scale of some of the 
 ornamental work seems reminiscent of wood-carving. 
 
 The carved work may be said to be of two kinds. 
 There was a sort of architectural or formal ornament 
 in low relief resembling in style and treatment 
 Assyrian work, in which the lotus frequently 
 appeared treated as a fiat rosette and used as 
 patera, arranged in rows with intervals ; and there 
 was a high relief treatment of figure sculpture. 
 Amonsj the horizontal courses of carved decoration 
 I noted a treatment of the garland or swag, the 
 ends being twisted through rings from which they 
 were represented as depending. These might have 
 been of a Greek or Roman pattern. 
 
 The exterior carving of the temple in the parts 
 sheltered under eaves and by doorways showed 
 traces of painting — the colours being red and green 
 on white. The whole of the surfaces appear to 
 have been coated with plaster to receive colour, 
 in the same way as may be seen at the temple of 
 Castor and Pollux at Giro-enti. 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 41 
 
 The stone when exposed to the weather was 
 very much blackened and resembled the gritstone 
 of Derbyshire in colour and texture. 
 
 The Temple was dedicated to Siva, but the 
 whole Hindu pantheon of the Vedic gods appeared 
 to be sculptured in this marvellous place, as well as 
 the different avators of Siva. 
 
 The Hindu religion is really a great system of 
 nature-worship, all the powers, forces, and influences 
 being personified and symbolised, nothing being 
 accounted "common or unclean" — the elephant- 
 headed Ganesha and the monkey god Hunuman 
 taking their place as "eligible deities" — the whole 
 scheme resting on the acknowledgment of the 
 sexual origin of life. The generative organs them- 
 selves being revered as sacred, and symbolised in 
 the mysterious Lingam which is enshrined in all 
 the Hindu temples, and the object of special 
 devotion. 
 
 The god Siva and Parvati his spouse form the 
 principal subject among the sculptures of the Kylas. 
 A striking design rather Egyptian in feeling was 
 to be seen in a large carved panel of Parvati 
 represented as seated on the water, or rather on a 
 mass of lotus leaves and flowers — the flower of life 
 — with attendant elephants symmetrically arranged 
 on each side, showering water upon the goddess 
 from their trunks. In all countries religious 
 symbols are taken from familiar and characteristic 
 objects common to each, although, as Count Goblet 
 d Alviella points out in his most interesting and 
 learned work on the " Migration of Symbols," 
 there is also a process of exchange and adaptation 
 
42 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 in ideas between different peoples and countries by 
 means of which we get imported types, which, how- 
 ever, become naturalised and reappear in the form or 
 convention peculiar to the country of their adoption. 
 As we gazed up at the cliffs from which this 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 AND ITS WASPS ! 
 
 wonderful structure had been hewn, we noticed a 
 number of green parrots fluttering about or clinging 
 to the sheer walls of rock — like vivid green flashes 
 of light upon the cold stone. Down in the court a 
 number of extraordinarily large-sized wasps came 
 buzzing about us. They looked formidable enough 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 43 
 
 but did not do any damage, though their obtrusion 
 did not facilitate the process of a sketching against 
 time. 
 
 Besides the Kylas, which is said to date from 
 about 750-850 a.d. There were a number of other 
 and smaller temples, cut in the face of the cliff at 
 intervals extending along; the hill on each side of 
 the Kylas. The most ancient is supposed to date 
 from 200 b.c. and the latest from the thirteenth 
 century a.d. A guide on the spot showed us several 
 Buddhist temples and these were much more cave- 
 like in character. One had very fine massive 
 carved and fluted columns. 
 
 The second temple we saw suggested in its plan 
 and form an apsidal basilica, and in detail wooden 
 structure, the roof being carved in close ribs, curved 
 to the form of a pointed arch, supported by a 
 horizontal cornice and columns set very close 
 together. A colossal figure of the seated Buddha 
 filled the view at the end of the nave, but there 
 was an ambulatory behind it. The figure was 
 painted a dark red with white drapery and black 
 hair, the eyes, with strongly marked white and 
 black pupils, had a fixed stare which carried the 
 whole length of the Temple. 
 
 The next temple visited, also Buddhistic, was 
 much plainer, and was being supported by new 
 buttresses of masonry to prevent the cliff from 
 falling. The third was larger but also quite 
 plain and square cut, the structure of the pillars 
 and cornice being again on timber principles ; 
 but none approached the Kylas in beauty and 
 interest. 
 
44 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 The village of Ellora lay on the plain among trees 
 about a mile and a half away from the foot of the 
 cliff. Our guide pointed out some Jain temples 
 there half hidden in masses of foliage and suQfp-ested 
 a walk there, but by this time, between 10 and 1 1 
 o'clock in the morning, the sun was very powerful 
 and the heat great, and as there was no shade till 
 the village was reached and we had to o-et back to 
 our bungalow, we gave it up and climbed the hill 
 again. As we left the Kylas a large and most 
 picturesque group of natives were squatted outside 
 the gateway having a sort of picnic, a day out with 
 their wives and numerous children, and they were 
 wandering alloverthetemple chatteringand laughing 
 as they examined the sculptures and seemingly enjoy- 
 ing themselves much. They gazed at us curiously 
 as we passed, as at some strange animals from an 
 unknown country. 
 
 M. Dauvergne took some photographs of the 
 caves, while I managed to get a coloured sketch of 
 the Kylas, and a few notes. 
 
 We found the return journey to Daulatabad rather 
 easier, being mostly downhill, though it was so 
 precipitous in places that it was a marvel our poor 
 ponies kept on their legs. We met many natives 
 on the road, both Mohammedans and Hindus, as 
 well as herds of goats, and asses with sacks of 
 grain slung across their backs, black sheep and 
 zebu carts. 
 
 We reached Daulatabad station about the 
 middle of the day, or early afternoon, and were 
 fortunate enough (owing to the language at the 
 command of our friend who explained our wants) 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 45 
 
 to get quite an excellently cooked and nicely served 
 tiffin in the waiting-room. 
 
 There were interesting native figures about the 
 station, and a group of figures at the village 
 well not far off, where I got a sketch of a 
 Hindu girl in a blue sari with a water jar on her 
 head. She had a little round mark (Buddhist) 
 like a red seal on her forehead, and her name 
 was Hashuma. 
 
 We got a train about 5.30 back to Munmad 
 arriving there soon after 9 at night. After dining 
 at the station we bade farewell to our friend M. 
 Dauvergne, who was travelling on to Bareilly, far 
 up in the north-western provinces to join his shooting 
 companion. Our train from Bombay did not leave 
 until 3 a.m., but sleep was impossible owing to the 
 noise, although we had a waiting-room to ourselves. 
 It was only the usual conversazione which is carried 
 on at every Indian station by the natives who 
 throng the platforms, often waiting all night for a 
 train, squatting in groups and keeping up a con- 
 tinual stream of talk. We were relieved when a 
 faithful coolie announced the arrival of our train 
 and carried in our bags. We had a compartment 
 to ourselves for the most part until nearing Bombay, 
 our only fellow-passengers being at different 
 times a very quiet Hindu, and a British officer of 
 the Royal Scots who did not travel far. But, 
 before we got in, the carriage became crowded 
 with every variety of costume, Parsee and Hindu 
 merchants getting in for Bombay, until we were 
 quite full up and — oh ! so hot. Glad we were 
 to get in at last, but not . till noon — the hottest 
 
46 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 time of day — feeling rather fagged after our 
 long journey. The heat in Bombay is very 
 oppressive even in the so-called cool season. 
 We generally lived in a temperature of about 
 88°, this in the dining-room being mitigated 
 by electric fans ; but it is always a relief when 
 the sun declines, and a drive in the cool of 
 the evening is delightful. 
 
 We planned a rather extensive tour, and with the 
 assistance of Messrs Cook, worked out a complete 
 itinerary through India, ending at Ceylon, from 
 whence we purposed to return in the following 
 March. 
 
 On December 14 M. Dadabhai Naoroji arrived by 
 the Arcadia at Bombay on his way to the National 
 Congress a t Calcutta of which he had been elected 
 President. He had a great welcome. Flag's and 
 triumphal arches were put up along the esplanade, 
 and he was brought from the Taj Mahal Hotel in 
 a motor car decorated with flowers. An enormous 
 crowd turned out to welcome him, chiefly of the 
 Parsee community, and Parsees were conspicuous 
 in the balconies of the houses and hotels along the 
 route of the procession and parsee inscriptions of 
 welcome hung across the streets. It was a striking 
 scene from our balcony altogether. The last golden 
 rays of the sun were slanting across the open 
 esplanade alternating with broad luminous shadows 
 and along the front streamed a vast white clad 
 crowd — so different to the black crowds we are 
 accustomed to in Europe — a white crowd varied 
 with notes of bright colour and black here and 
 there, and the red bunting floating around the 
 
■•!£&$$&■ 
 
[\ UNIVLHtr 
 
 OF 
 
BOMBAY AND CAVES OF ELLORA 47 
 
 bronze equestrian statue of King Edward VII. in 
 the foreground : while the balconies were gay with 
 Parsee ladies in their delicate embroidered silks, 
 canary coloured, pink, blue, green, violet and 
 scarlet. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 AHMEDABAD 
 
 A "\ 7E left Bombay for Ahmedabad on December 
 * * the 15th. Finding that the best train was 
 a night one, and as it was a journey of some three 
 hundred miles or more, and time was an object, we 
 made up our minds, though not given to night 
 travelling, to make an exception to our usual 
 practice, although we should lose the sight of the 
 country by the way. Railway travelling in India is 
 quite as comfortable as one might expect. The 
 carriages, it is true, vary on different lines and 
 according to age, but, as a rule, the trains have 
 separate carriages for Europeans and for different 
 classes of natives, and it is often quite possible to 
 have an entire compartment even for a long 
 distance. On some lines the first-class carriages 
 are scarcely better than the second, but the fare is 
 double. The best carriages have compartments 
 containing two long leather-covered seats, each side 
 under the windows, which can be turned into 
 sleeping" couches at night. There is a good space 
 between them and also at the end between the 
 doors, and a lavatory is always attached. Above 
 the seats are slung two upper berths, so that the 
 compartment could be arranged for four sleepers. 
 Any amount of light luggage can be taken into the 
 
AHMEDABAD 49 
 
 compartments by passengers, but the heavy must 
 be registered. The windows are protected from 
 the sun by Venetian shutters, which can be let up 
 or down, as well as glass, clear or toned, and some- 
 times fine wire screens. Outside there is a sort of 
 hood, between which and the tops of the windows 
 is a space for air, so that the fierce heat of the sun 
 is tempered, and the carriage shielded to a certain 
 extent from its rays. 
 
 We found very well-appointed sleeping-cars to 
 Ahmedabad, but divided into ladies' and gentlemen's 
 compartments. As it happened, another couple 
 were the only others travelling by the first-class 
 sleeping-car besides ourselves, so that we were able 
 to arrange between ourselves that husbands and 
 wives were not divided, each pair having a com- 
 partment to themselves. 
 
 Ahmedabad was reached about half-past seven in 
 the morning. A crowd of coolies usually rush to 
 seize your baggage on the arrival of a train, and 
 our bearer was useful in keeping them at bay a bit. 
 There was a Dak bungalow at Ahmedabad, but 
 we did not feel any decided leaning towards it, and, 
 finding there were quite decent bedrooms to be 
 had at the station and that we could feed in the 
 refreshment-room, we decided to stay there. 
 
 Carriages were to be had at from six to eight 
 rupees a day, and we engaged one and had a drive 
 through the town, stopping to see the mosques for 
 which it is so famed. The Jama Musjid had a 
 splendid, spacious court in front of it, walled around, 
 the entrance being through a rather small door, 
 where it is necessary for the visitors either to put 
 
5o 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 oft their shoes or to consent to have enormous 
 loose ones of grass or mattino tied on over their 
 own, which seems to prevent desecration quite as 
 efficiently. The mosque had fifteen domes, and 
 
 vl— » 
 
 
 THE FEET OF PILGRIMS (AT MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUES) 
 
 inside was a forest of white pillars (260), and a 
 large gallery for the women, screened with pierced 
 stone-work in lovely patterns. There were the 
 marble tombs of Ahmad Shah — the builder of the 
 mosque — and his son and grandson, richly carved 
 in delicate relief, the sides being arcaded, and under 
 
AHMED ABAD 51 
 
 each arch the representation of a hanging lamp, or 
 censer, some of the latter showing an ornamental 
 treatment of smoke ascendino- from them. 
 
 The marble pavements had a peculiar fine dull 
 polish, noticeable in mosque pavements throughout 
 India, which is the result of the constant movement 
 of the bare feet of the natives passing over their 
 surface. The tombs of the queens of Ahmad Shah 
 were carved with remarkable fineness. One, inlaid 
 with delicate trees in white marble or black, was 
 as fine as any Persian cabinet work in ivory. 
 
 The Queen's Mosque, with three domes, contains 
 charming carving and pierced screen-work. 
 
 The mosque of Rani Sipri and her tomb are 
 marvellously rich in fine carving in red sandstone 
 and screen-work, and suggest in some of their 
 forms and the rich incrustation of their ornament 
 the influence of Hindu work, which, indeed, is a 
 characteristic of many here. Beautiful pierced 
 screens of stone-work, divided into panels by the 
 supporting columns, enclose the tomb. 
 
 For the loveliest designs, however, in pierced 
 screen-work, one still turns to those of the windows 
 of the Sidi Sayyids' Mosque, especially to the two 
 wherein palms and rose-trees are combined in a 
 sort of natural formation to form a lovely mesh of 
 intricate, yet perfectly coherent and balanced 
 pattern, which fills the tympanum shape of low- 
 arched windows ; a design in light on dark seen 
 from the outside, and in dark against lieht seen 
 from within, when it fulfils its purpose of breaking 
 up the light of the sun, and producing that enchant- 
 ing luminous twilight so characteristic of Eastern 
 
52 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 interiors. There are reproductions of two of these 
 windows at our Indian Museum at South Kensing- 
 ton, but I had long desired to see the originals, and 
 I was not disappointed. The warm light of the 
 
 POOR RELATIONS 
 
 late afternoon sun lingered in their interstices, and, 
 seen from below, the under sides of the marble fret 
 took rich golden reflections, which gave the designs 
 quite a new aspect, and filled them with life and 
 colour, o-ivino- the effect almost of sunlit foliage. 
 We drove to see Shah Alam's Mosque, built about 
 1420, which was reached in about half an hour 
 
AHMEDABAD 53 
 
 beyond the city gates, along a cool avenue of 
 acacias. The mosque has a fine court and minarets, 
 and a splendid canopied tomb, with pillars inlaid 
 with mother-o'-pearl ; beautiful metal-work in 
 pierced brass gates and screens. 
 
 On returning from this drive we stopped near 
 the river Sarbarmati in a grove of trees, chiefly 
 banyan, mango, and acacia. Here a native boy 
 set up a peculiar hooting sort of call, and presently 
 we saw troops of silver-grey monkeys dropping 
 from the trees and gambolling along towards us 
 between the stems — hundreds of them apparently 
 — hurrying up to feed on the dried peas we scattered 
 for them. They came crowding around us, but 
 were quite friendly, and many would feed out of 
 our hands. They varied much in size, but were 
 mostly large, and carried their tails high in the air 
 and curled over their backs in spirited curves when 
 walking on all-fours. Many of the female monkeys 
 carried their young ones with them. All looked 
 beautifully clean and healthy, and were full of play 
 — in fact as different as possible in their freedom 
 from the poor captives in cages at zoological gar- 
 dens. It was amusing to watch their pranks and 
 to note the ease with which they would climb up 
 into the trees, some of which were as full of monkeys 
 almost as branches. 
 
 As we left the monkeys we had another unusual 
 sight. We saw a large and leafy mango tree lean- 
 ing over the river, which seemed to have suddenly 
 burst into white blossoms ; but we soon perceived 
 these supposed flowers begin to flutter, and winged 
 ones detached themselves from the mass of white, 
 
54 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 which we then discovered were white cranes. They 
 would rise in a cloud and settle again ever and anon 
 among the green foliage. They were a small kind, 
 
 
 
 v 
 
 za 
 
 A FAMILY PARTY CRANES ON A MANGO TREE (SARBARMATI RIVER) 
 
 not larger than a heron, and are common all over 
 India. We often saw them afterwards rising by 
 the side of the pools by the railway track, or fishing, 
 or flying over the submerged paddy fields, but in 
 smaller numbers, and never so beautifully. 
 
AHMEDABAD 55 
 
 On the white and dusty road to Ahmedabad we 
 met numbers of wagons loaded with cotton bales 
 and drawn by large white oxen. The country carts 
 had wicker bodies, somewhat like those I have seen 
 in Germany, and primitive massive wheels with 
 eight spokes in a double cross. Camels were 
 occasionally seen ridden by natives. As at Bom- 
 bay, there were extensive cotton factories here, 
 and cotton was very largely grown in the country 
 around. 
 
 The bazaars and the street life in Ahmedabad 
 are most various and interesting, all sorts of trades 
 and crafts being carried on. There is still a great 
 quantity of silk- weaving done, and brocades wrought 
 with gold thread. A proverb of the place quoted 
 by Mr W. S. Caine has it that the prosperity of 
 Ahmedabad hangs on three threads — ' ; gold, silk, 
 and cotton " ; and these three threads still symbolise 
 the main industries of the city. A picturesque 
 incident in the streets is the silk-winder — in some 
 open space in front of the shops you may sometimes 
 see a native woman standing (like Mr Holman 
 Hunt's " Lady of Shalott ") within a low square 
 enclosure formed of bamboo sticks wound with 
 lonof strands of silk thread. She holds a sort of 
 spindle in her left hand, and a long tapering wand 
 in her right, by means of which she divides or 
 regulates the thread as she winds it off on to the 
 bamboo sticks, rapidly twirling the spindle as she 
 does so. It is an extremely pretty and picturesque 
 sight. The old methods of hand-weaving are 
 practised, and for weaving the brocades or " kincobs" 
 the treadles in the loom are lifted from above by 
 
56 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 a boy, who draws up the cords attached to the 
 threads of the warp according to the pattern the 
 weaver is working. It is said that the native trade 
 in the finer brocaded silks has been injured owing 
 to the richer natives following the European fashion 
 of dressing- plainly, the rich silk woven with gold 
 thread being only worn on state occasions, another 
 instance of the depressing influence of Western ideas 
 and habits upon the East. The rich merchants, and 
 the Maharajahs and their court officials no doubt 
 believe they are improving their style in adopting 
 fashions from Europe, but the effect is practically 
 only to vulgarise the native taste. The native 
 princes and the well-to-do merchants now dash 
 about in imported motor cars in raiment of dingy 
 tints, instead of proudly prancing upon stately 
 elephants and clothed in splendour and colour. 
 Eastern life is made less joyous in its aspects by 
 such changes. The mass of the people do not 
 change, however, and seem to have no desire to, 
 and they are the common people everywhere who 
 give the characteristic life and colour. Though 
 they only wear cotton or muslin, the beauty 
 and variety of the tints are wonderful, and fill 
 the bazaars with a stream of ever - changing 
 hues in the most unexpected combinations and 
 harmonies. 
 
 Driving through the bazaars at Ahmedabad, we 
 came to a sort of open space from which several 
 streets diverged, and here was being held a sort of 
 open market of cloth — chiefly muslins and cottons 
 of every variety of colour and pattern. These 
 were laid out in piles on the ground, the merchants 
 
AH MED AB AD 
 
 57 
 
 squatting by their goods or spreading them out to 
 show their customers. 
 
 We stopped our carriage, and got our bearer to 
 bring us some of the stuffs to look at and to inquire 
 the prices, and we were soon surrounded by an 
 
 STREET SCENE, AHMEDABAD 
 ENGLISH TRAVELLERS SKETCHING AND MAKING PURCHASES 
 
 eager crowd of dark faces and turbaned heads, and 
 were nearly buried in a rainbow-tinted cloud of 
 muslin and cotton cloth, amid which deliberate 
 selection became difficult. I noted, however, many 
 examples of the native method of dyeing cloths in 
 patterns by the tying and dipping methods which 
 often produce most delightful results, the pattern 
 having- a softer and more blended effect than the 
 ordinary block printing. Although Manchester 
 
58 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 cottons were in evidence, it was pleasant to see 
 that native methods were not forgotten, and were 
 still in demand. 
 
 The native pottery, too, at Ahmedabad is ex- 
 tremely interesting, the common forms are always 
 good, as indeed they are throughout India. Enor- 
 mous earthen jars are made here to hold grain, or 
 for carrying water from the river on ox-carts. The 
 ordinary earthen water-jar, which the Hindu women 
 carry on their heads, resembles the ancient Greek 
 Hydria in form, and is so beautiful that it is dis- 
 tressing to see it occasionally substituted by the 
 hideous tin kerosine can — another European in- 
 novation — much more difficult to balance one would 
 think. In the streets of Ahmedabad occasional 
 features are small, richly-carved octagonal minarets 
 supported on posts, and looking like glorified 
 pigeon houses. There is a big Hindu temple — a 
 Jain temple of no antiquity, only about thirty or 
 forty years old. The shrine of Hathi Sing. It 
 has the characteristic pagoda domes, and is elabor- 
 ately painted and decorated, though rather coarsely. 
 The finest features were the marble pavements 
 where, again, one noticed the peculiar soft polish 
 given by bare feet. 
 
 A very interesting excursion is that to Sarkhei, 
 a drive of about seven miles outside the city gates. 
 The road crosses the wide river Sarbarmati — or 
 rather its bed, as the water shrinks into a rather 
 narrow stream, and is almost lost sometimes among 
 oreat stretches and banks of sand. At the water's 
 edge, as we passed, we saw the people busy wash- 
 ing clothes (which made a pretty coloured pattern 
 
i 71 > 
 

AHMEDABAD 59 
 
 when spread on the sands to dry) or themselves, or 
 watering horses and bullocks, or refreshing their 
 baskets of vegetables they had borne along the 
 dusty ways by dipping them in the stream. 
 
 Our road was deep in dust, but generally pleas- 
 antly shaded by fine old trees, chiefly banyan, teak 
 trees, and acacias. The little striped squirrels 
 were very numerous and active, frisking up and 
 down and around the tree stems. Monkeys were 
 occasionally seen — of the same silver grey sort we 
 had seen on our visit to the Mosque of Shah Alam — 
 in the jungles at the side of the road, or in the trees. 
 A bird rather like a large bullfinch was common, 
 and we saw many peacocks wandering about, and, 
 of course, kites and crows everywhere. On the 
 road we passed many a heavy-laden ox-cart, piled 
 with bales of cotton, making their way to Ahme- 
 dabad, as well as droves of white asses, and many 
 groups of natives. About two miles out we saw at 
 the side of the road a large brick-built Moham- 
 medan Tomb, said to be the tomb of the architect 
 of Sarkhei, who was a Persian. 
 
 Further on our carriage turned out of the main 
 road down a narrow lane to the right and up a 
 steep bit of hill, flagged with flat stones. Presently 
 we arrived in front of a fine gateway of Moslem 
 architecture, which formed the entrance to a large 
 quadrangle, shaded by a very old acacia tree. We 
 had to put on the usual clumsy canvas shoes before 
 entering this court, which enclosed the splendid 
 mosque and tomb of Gunj Baksh (begun by Mah- 
 mudshah in 1445 and finished by Begara in 145 1 ), 
 with a low, flat cupola, and many pilastered front, 
 
60 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 the structures of the caps showing Hindu influence. 
 There is a finely worked lattice screen of brass sur- 
 rounding the octagonal shrine within, containing the 
 tomb. The floor is inlaid with coloured marbles, 
 and the roof is rich with gilding. An open pavilion 
 stood in the court in front of the shrine, raised upon 
 a platform, with steps supported by sixteen carved 
 marble pillars. Opposite to this is a charming 
 portico, through which one can get a glimpse of the 
 great tank, though it was almost dried up when we 
 saw it, the water hardly enough to conceal an alli- 
 gator, though white cranes were standing in the 
 pool in the forlorn hope of catching fish, and 
 monkeys gambolled about the steps. On the side 
 of the court near the entrance are the tombs of 
 Mahmud Begara and his two sons — of the usual 
 Mohammedan type, an arcaded pattern in low relief 
 alono- the sides ; with censers hanoinof between the 
 arches of similar type to those at Ahmedabad. 
 
 There is a pathetic feeling of departed or half 
 decayed splendour about Sarkhei, as well as a sense 
 of romance and mystery, and one leaves it im- 
 pressed with the idea of the refinement, sense of 
 beauty, and spaciousness of the departed princely 
 builders who lie buried within their own archi- 
 tectural dream. 
 
 There are always a number of hangers on about 
 Indian tombs and temples, self-constituted guides, 
 and persons of indefinite status and occupation who 
 cluster around the arriving and departing stranger, 
 who has to smooth his path with backsheesh, and 
 Sarkhei is no exception. We had a hot drive 
 along the dusky highway back to Ahmedabad in 
 
AHMEDABAD 61 
 
 the middle of the day, the sun blazing down very 
 fiercely, and we were glad of the protection of the 
 carriage hood. 
 
 In the course of one of our evening drives about 
 the town, our Moonsawmy pointed out an acacia 
 tree we passed by the roadside which appeared to 
 be full of what looked like large pendant pear- 
 shaped fruit of black and golden brown colour. 
 These, however, were really clusters of fruit-bats 
 hanging in the tree until nightfall. Some of them, 
 as we looked, were already moving and stretching 
 out their wings in the last rays of the evening sun. 
 
 We passed through the triple arched ancient 
 gateway which stands at the head of the main 
 street. The bazaars were crowded with buyers 
 and sellers, chiefly of cotton and other stuffs. The 
 people themselves in every variety of costume 
 formed a wonderful scheme of colour, varied by 
 the brownskins of babies and little children playing 
 about quite naked, and the brown backs of the 
 workers bending over their crafts. The whole 
 scene fused in the light of after-glow and rich in 
 tone and chiaroscuro. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 * AHMEDABAD TO AJMIR 
 
 THE railway station at Ahmedabad has the 
 unusual distinction of two striking minarets 
 of brick-work, richly cut and moulded in succes- 
 sive circular tiers, which rise to a considerable 
 height from amid the palms and plantains of a 
 small well-watered Eastern garden, with many 
 straight-cut paths between the thickly planted 
 trees. These are the remains of a Mohammedan 
 mosque which once stood there. It is an unusually 
 interesting and pleasant place to wander in while 
 waiting- for a train. 
 
 Our bearer secured a comfortable coupe for our 
 journey to Ajmir, which was to be our next halting- 
 place. We had originally intended to visit Mount 
 Abu to see the wonderful Jain temples of Delwara, 
 but before we reached the Abu road heavy rain came 
 on, and as it would have meant a pony ride of 
 sixteen miles from the station to Mount Abu, we 
 decided to go on to Ajmir without a break. 
 
 Leaving Ahmedabad at 8. j 5 we breakfasted in 
 the train, there being a restaurant car put on. The 
 trains not being corridor trains it is necessary to 
 oet out at the stopping stations and find one's way to 
 the car and back to one's carriage again. 
 
 The country at first was very flat and generally 
 
AHMEDABAD TO AJMIR 6 
 
 o 
 
 cultivated, but with occasional belts of jungle, where 
 monkeys and peacocks were seen. Fine banyan 
 and acacia trees here and there. Ploughing with 
 oxen was going on, and the yoke of oxen drawing 
 at the irrigation wells was a frequent sight. 
 
 About the middle of the day dark clouds rolled 
 up and we had a heavy shower with promise of 
 more to come. Mountains came into view at the 
 same time as the change in the weather, and it was 
 not long before we reached Abu Road Station. 
 The fine mountain ran^e on the left of the line 
 amid which Mount Abu was situated was veiled 
 in cloud and rain, but as we left the mountains the 
 sky cleared again, and we entered a flat, desert-like 
 region covered with stunted trees or dry scrub 
 bush, stretching for miles. A strange-looking 
 country was afterwards traversed, where huge 
 granite boulders lay on the earth like mounds and 
 partly overgrown, others might have been imagined 
 to be the shells of gigantic tortoises. At a station 
 called Mori this characteristic was the most striking. 
 The stations on this line through Rajpootana were 
 built after the Moslem fashion and had a superficial 
 resemblance to mosques, being domed, the smaller 
 buildings and wayside signal huts being treated in 
 the same manner. 
 
 After a rainy sunset of orange and grey, dark- 
 ness soon fell, and it was not lono- before we 
 reached Ajmir after about twelve hours' travel — a 
 distance of over three hundred miles. We found 
 fairly comfortable quarters at the station re- 
 freshment-rooms, the bedrooms being above and 
 opening on to spacious terraces from which in- 
 
64 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 teresting views of the town and country could be 
 had. The only drawbacks were the noises. What 
 with the shrieks of the engines, and the perpetual 
 conversazione carried on on the platforms, which 
 were generally thronged with most picturesque 
 crowds of natives, sleep was very broken. 
 
 Ajmir is very beautifully situated, with a fine 
 background of hills, the town itself being on a slope 
 with an old fort crowning a height immediately 
 above it. There is a large military station, the 
 cantonments with the residency and the English 
 bungalows lying on a plain quite away from the 
 native town. 
 
 We hired a carriage and drove around the town 
 the morning after our arrival, visiting the old palace 
 and massive fortress built by the Emperor Akbar, 
 who has left so many noble buildings in the north- 
 west of India to testify to his power and influence 
 in the past. We entered through a noble gateway 
 into a large quadrangle surrounded by tremendously 
 high, thick walls and having octagonal bastions at 
 four corners. A pavilion rose in the centre of the 
 court, raised upon a platform led up to by steps of 
 marble. Extensive restorations were being carried 
 on under the Indian Government, so much so that one 
 had fears they were in danger of going too far in 
 the direction of renewal, and did not draw the line 
 with sufficient decision at the limits of preservation 
 and repair. Certainly new work was being put in 
 freely. It was interesting, however, to see that 
 most beautiful and characteristic Indian craft of 
 piercing patterns in marble being carried on. The 
 native carver, turbaned and grey-bearded, was 
 
AHMEDABAD TO AJMIR 65 
 
 squatting on the ground busy with a small marble 
 grill or screen. He was drilling a geometric diaper 
 pattern through a panel of marble which had a 
 worked moulding for frame. The slab was bedded 
 in clay to keep it firm under the worker's hands, 
 and to prevent splitting. When the holes were 
 drilled he finished the work with chisels and mallet, 
 working out the different bevels and facets of the 
 quatre-foils, and putting in the work that which gave 
 all the richness and the effect of the pattern. He 
 seemed pleased to have his work noticed, and 
 anxious that we should see it in its finished state 
 he went to where a group of native women were at 
 work on other similar grills which had left the 
 carver's hands, cleaning the pierced patterns from 
 the clay, and showed the completed panels clear 
 cut in the white marble. It was noticeable that the 
 women only did the cleaning and polishing up, but 
 not the carving. 
 
 We had a fine view from the ramparts and 
 minarets of the pavilion. 
 
 From the fort we went on driving through the 
 bazaars of Ajmir, which were highly interesting but 
 less busy and crowded, perhaps, than at Ahmedabad. 
 Gay coloured cottons and muslins, embroidered 
 slippers, pottery, and grain of all kinds were mostly 
 in evidence, the latter arranged in heaps on cloths 
 spread on the ground in front of the shops, and 
 measured out by the traders squatting by their 
 merchandise. The fronts of the native houses 
 here were mostly in white plaster, often painted 
 with designs in blue and yellow of formal flowers 
 in vases, or quaint animals and figures in profile. 
 
 E 
 
66 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 There was much fancy and variety in the design 
 of the little arcaded projecting balconies corbelled 
 out from the wall, and ogee arched windows, and 
 moulded plaster and painted ornament. 
 
 We presently, at the end of the principal street, 
 approached the magnificent double gateway of the 
 famous Dargah — named the Dilkasha (or "heart- 
 expanding ") gate. From the street one really sees 
 three oeee arches of different heights in succession, 
 one beyond the other, the highest being flanked 
 by towering minarets crowned with cupolas. The 
 whole gateway in the bright morning sunlight looked 
 a fairy-like aerial structure', fair and white, and 
 glittering here and there with gold, and tile patterns 
 in blue and yellow. 
 
 The Dargah of Ajmir is revered as the burial-place 
 of one Kwaja Sahib, a saint of the thirteenth 
 century. His beautiful white and gold domed 
 shrine enclosing his silver tomb occupies the centre 
 of the inner court, and is visited by troops of pilgrims. 
 A great festival is held in honour of the saint every 
 year, when Ajmir is thronged with pilgrims. Two 
 enormous iron pots are shown, standing each side 
 the entrance to the Dargah, in which at the festival 
 are cooked tons of food freely given to the pilgrims. 
 The biggest pot is reputed to hold no less than 
 10,000 lbs. of food. The food consists of mess of 
 rice, oil, sugar, raisins, and almonds, which is rather 
 suggestive of a sort of plum pudding, and on this 
 scale costs about ^100. 
 
 On first entering the Dargah through the great 
 gateway one sees a large paved court with several 
 domed tombs and a mosque, and rising high the 
 
SHRINE OF THE KWAJA, A (MIR 
 
AHMED ABAD TO AJMIR 67 
 
 old fort of Taragarh, white-walled on the brown 
 hill, is seen above. I noted a very fine bronze many- 
 branched candelabra on one of the domed tombs. 
 Passing through this court the second court is 
 entered where stands the shrine. It is surrounded 
 by a low marble balustrade, and is picturesquely 
 overshadowed by a large ancient ilex tree, through 
 the spreading branches of which with their masses 
 of rich dark foliage glows the colour and gold of 
 the richly decorated shrine. Through the open doors 
 gleam the silver of the tomb, and the ivory-like dome 
 fretted and crested with gold sparkling in the full 
 light of the sun pierces the deep blue sky. Curious 
 low tapering pedestals with small cupolas at the 
 top are placed about the courts and around the 
 shrine at intervals. These are pierced with small 
 recesses, in which, on festival occasions, small lamps 
 are placed. Beyond the shrine we come out upon 
 a high-walled terrace which extends with a succes- 
 sion of bays along the sides of a deep narrow tank, 
 nights of steps leading down to the water's edge at 
 different points. 
 
 It is the custom when visitors leave the Dargah for 
 the attendants to hang garlands of flowers about 
 their necks, and in return for this graceful attention 
 an offering to the shrine — or to its hangers on — 
 is expected. 
 
 The visitor is, however, rather carefully watched 
 inside the Dargah. The shrine itself is not allowed 
 to be entered. Shoes must be removed on entering 
 the court, or the big canvas shoes put on over 
 them. On sketching intent I was not allowed to 
 pitch a camp stool near the shrine or in the sacred 
 
68 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 precincts, and even open umbrellas, for shade, were 
 objected to by these jealous watchful devotees. 
 
 From the Dargah we went to see the roofless 
 mosque of " Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra," which being 
 interpreted signifies " The house of two and a half 
 days." It is on the hill opposite the fort, but on the 
 lower slope, and is approached through narrow streets, 
 and finally reached by a steep flight of steps which 
 lead to the gateway of the court of the mosque. 
 It is now little more than a beautiful red sand-stone 
 carved screen of open pointed arches, but the detail 
 is exceedingly rich and happy in scale, and largely 
 consists of bordering inscriptions outlining the 
 arches and their rectangular framings, the texts 
 beine in both Cufic and Toora characters, and 
 both these and the surface decoration generally are 
 delicately but sharply cut in sunk carving, which 
 preserves a certain unity of ornamental effect. 
 Arranged along the side of the court are many 
 carved fragments which are the remains of the Jain 
 Temple, transformed into the Mussulman Mosque 
 in the year 1236 by Altamash, who conquered the 
 city, and was said to have effected the transformation 
 in two and a half days. 
 
 The mosque was not used for worship. In the 
 court a rope or cord maker was at work. The 
 white strands stretched over canes from the man 
 working at one end of the walk to where at the 
 other end his assistant sat at a sort of wheel by 
 means of which the strands were twisted into a 
 cord of the required thickness. 
 
 After this we drove to the Daulat Bagh 
 (Garden of splendour) — then passing through a 
 
AHMEDABAD TO AJMIR 69 
 
 beautiful park full of pine-trees we came to the 
 white marble pavilion built by Shah Jehan, standing 
 on a marble balustraded terrace, and overlooking 
 a lovely lake, bounded by mountains — a lovely 
 spot. The pavilion has been restored by the 
 Indian government, and looks quite new. Marble, 
 however, does not seem to weather or discolour in the 
 Indian climate, and the difference between new and 
 old is not nearly so marked as in European countries, 
 while the imitative faculty of the Hindu workman 
 and the traditions of craftsmanship under which he 
 still works help to complete the illusion when 
 restoration is done. New or old, it was an enchant- 
 ing place, especially when the evening sun floods the 
 whole scene with golden light, streaming through the 
 trees, and filling the marble porticoes with warm 
 colour. The lake still as a mirror, reflecting the 
 fairy palace and the dreamy distance in its glassy 
 surface. The chief commissioner should be happy 
 to have his residence in the midst of this lovely 
 garden. The lake is as useful too as it is beautiful, 
 as from it is obtained the water supply of Ajmir. 
 
 Another of our evening drives was through the 
 cantonments outside the native city. We passed 
 through the English military quarters, and saw the 
 long low barrack-like bungalows of the soldiers, clean 
 and neat, but bare and ugly. There were more 
 comfortable bungalows of the officers and other 
 EnQ-lish residents in o-ardens and amid trees, with 
 entrance gates and drives, almost suburban, allow- 
 ing for little differences in detail. The names of 
 the residents, for instance, were painted in white 
 block letters on ugly black boards placed outside 
 
70 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 the gates of the gardens. There was the usual 
 club-house in a landscape garden, and here a 
 military band of native infantry was playing, con- 
 ducted by a man in a straw hat. English ladies, 
 and children with their native ayahs and bearers 
 scattered about the lawns. 
 
 On the road a little distance from the town a 
 large number of natives were busy making up the 
 road over a new bridge across the railway. Many 
 of these coolies were very attenuated, and might 
 have come from the famine districts. 
 
 Passing through the bazaar on my return from 
 sketching in the Dargah, I noticed among the stalls 
 of a crowded and picturesque native street a crafts- 
 man at work putting a border pattern upon the 
 edge of a piece of orange-coloured muslin. He 
 first printed or stamped the border, a small leaf and 
 flower pattern, from a wood block with some sort of 
 size of a brown colour, and when this was sufficiently 
 "tacky" he laid on silver leaf over the pattern 
 thus defined by the block in size, and finished by 
 brushing away the superfluous leaf with a soft 
 brush, much as our gilders do. 
 
 A quaint effect was produced by the camels here, 
 laden with great sheafs of sucrar-cane, which trailed 
 behind, spreading out over their hind quarters in a 
 way that suggested skirts or a crinoline — viewed 
 from behind. 
 
 From our terrace over the railway station we 
 could observe the varied groups of natives which 
 continually thronged the platforms and the yards 
 outside. Certainly the native in India makes 
 constant use of the railways, although the railways 
 
AHMEDABAD TO AJMIR 
 
 7* 
 
 do not take any trouble to make them comfortable. 
 The native carriages seem always in an over- 
 crowded state, and many of them are rather 
 
 THE CAMEL'S CRINOLINE (SUGAR CANE) AJMIR 
 
 suggestive of cattle trucks with rough wooden 
 partitions. Troups of natives will come to a 
 railway station and camp all night waiting for some 
 train in the morning. On inquiring what classes or 
 manner of people these poor travellers mostly were, 
 I was told that they comprised chiefly pilgrims to 
 various shrines and festivals in different parts of the 
 country, and small traders. The Ryot, or agri- 
 
72 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 culturist, did not travel much, as might be supposed. 
 The people usually bore great bundles with them, 
 bedding presumably, and other necessaries for long 
 journeys. These the women carried upon their 
 heads. In the evenings groups of natives would 
 be seen gathered round fires made on the ground. 
 These were often mere flares of straw, and did not 
 last very long, though they may have served to 
 mitigate the chill of the nightfall, which is alwavs 
 so sudden in India. 
 
 As evidence of the extraordinary variety of 
 colour arrangements in the costume of the natives 
 in the bazaars, here are a few notes made of the 
 colours worn by passers-by, both men and- women, 
 at Ajmir observed in the course of a few minutes. 
 
 i. Citron tunic, emerald green turban, white 
 trousers. 
 
 2. Buff turban black tunic, white trousers. 
 
 3. (Woman.) Large vermilion cloak, pink skirt. 
 
 4. Pea green turban, crimson velvet tunic, white 
 trousers. 
 
 5. Orange turban, black tunic, white trousers. 
 
 6. White turban, wound round a red fez, deep 
 brown orange cloak thrown over brown jacket and 
 white breeches. 
 
 7. Orange muslin simply covering head and body, 
 scarlet trousers. (Mohammedan woman.) 
 
 8. Turquoise turban, golden orange tunic (long) 
 lined with pale yellow. 
 
 The agricultural country folks generally wore 
 white, though it was rather a dusky white. Groups 
 of herdsmen were occasionally seen with long 
 straight wands, their dark faces and bare limbs 
 
AHMEDABAD TO AJMIR 73 
 
 emerging from white cotton turbans, tunics and 
 cloaks. 
 
 Travellers in India as well as English residents 
 are often greeted with salaams in the native bazaars 
 and passers-by on the road. The word "salaam" 
 is pronounced by natives sometimes in a tone almost 
 of command, but as far as I could understand it was 
 intended to suggest a mutual exchange of saluta- 
 tions, or even the word alone might be taken as a 
 salutation sometimes ; but it is always expected that 
 an answering salute of some kind will be given, but 
 it is said that one should never salute with the left 
 hand if it is wished to avoid offence. The ordinary 
 mode of salutation in any country should be care- 
 fully observed, as in no way can offence be more 
 easily given, however inadvertently, by any 
 apparent neglect of what are considered the 
 ordinary courtesies of life sanctioned by the 
 customs of a country. 
 
 It is true that the native children seemed some- 
 times inclined to mock at a stranger, in a spirit of 
 monkey mischief, perhaps, but there are little street 
 gamins in any city, and the latest product of our 
 civilisation, the London street arab, would be difficult 
 to beat anywhere, East or West. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 CH1TORGARH AND UDAIPUR 
 
 T^ROM Ajmir there is a branch line to Chitor- 
 ■*- garh and Udaipur, and no traveller in India 
 should miss the opportunity of visiting both these 
 highly interesting places. Leaving Ajmir, the 
 railway runs south through a rather flat country, 
 passing Naisirabad, an important British military 
 station. The English "Tommy" in khaki, and 
 white helmet and putties, or the sun-burned, brown- 
 booted and spurred British cavalry officer, were in 
 evidence at the railway station. Among the native 
 crowd here we saw a turbaned man in pink carry- 
 ing a very thin, aged woman, probably his mother, 
 pick-a-back fashion. 
 
 A very dry and almost desert tract of country is 
 traversed after this, though occasionally varied by 
 irrigated fields and green crops. The irrigation 
 wells, worked by oxen as before, and the native 
 ploughing, were the chief incidents in the land- 
 scape. The plough is a very primitive-looking 
 implement with a single shaft, with a cross handle 
 fixed at right angles to the shaft, which consists of 
 a sharpened piece of wood, tipped with iron. The 
 plough is drawn by a pair of zebus, and is light 
 enough for the man to lift up and turn at the end 
 of the furrow, or even to be carried home on his 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 75 
 
 shoulder at the end of the day. There were thick 
 hedges of spikey sort of cactus, branching out from 
 a main stem, something like candelabra, the fronds 
 orowinof i n a longitudinal, rimd form. These 
 hedges fenced the railway line from the fields on 
 the desert. Another plant of common occurrence, 
 both here and all over India, was a broad-leaved 
 shrub of symmetric order, having small, pale, lilac 
 flowers, the stems rather a yellow, and the leaves 
 a lightish blue green. We noted also a sort of wild 
 laburnam. The prickly pear was common, and a 
 sort of prickly acacia-like shrub much liked by 
 camels. The trees were mostly various acacias, the 
 banyan tree (Ficus), and the teak. In places we 
 saw both date and cocoa palms. At one station 
 (Mandal) the level plains, with pyramidal hills in 
 the distance and a grove of palms and camels in 
 the foreground, again recalled Egypt. 
 
 The cultivated crops we passed were cotton, 
 tobacco, rice, wheat, and sugar cane. 
 
 At every station may be seen the water filter, a 
 wooden tripod stand, holding three red earthen 
 water-jars, one above the other. The natives 
 drink quantities of water, and always carry a small 
 drinking-vessel of bright brass, which they take 
 every opportunity of filling. The water-bearer is a 
 characteristic figure everywhere, and comes up to 
 the train with his cry, " Panee ! panee ! " which 
 (with an Italian prepossessed ear) is more suggest- 
 ive of another, and solid, necessary of life. Bread, 
 however, in Hindustanee, happens to be "roti." 
 
 Having left Ajmir by the 9.20 a.m. train, we 
 arrived at Chitoro-arh about five in the evenino- and 
 
76 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 put up at the station rooms for the night. There 
 was a considerable crowd on the long, open, 
 gravelled platform, mainly natives, with a small 
 contingent of English and American tourists. 
 European tourists in India, however, were generally 
 few and far between, the United States being much 
 more numerously represented. A picturesque group 
 was formed by a native resident from Udaipur, 
 with his retinue, waiting for their train on. The 
 chief was a venerable and a kindly-looking man, with 
 white hair and beard, reminding one rather of the 
 late G. F. Watts. He was gaily dressed in a pink 
 turban and a lilac silk coat, and was seated on a 
 chair on the platform, surrounded by his attendants 
 in scarlet ; among these was his trumpeter, with a 
 bugle slung around him, and a quad of four 
 soldiers in khaki and turbans. 
 
 We found the Traveller's Bungalow was about 
 three-quarters of a mile or so away from the 
 station. The bedrooms were all taken by the 
 English and American parties, but we could feed 
 there, so, retaining our quarters at the station, we 
 walked to the Bungalow for our dinner. It was a 
 lovely moonlight night, with bright stars, but there 
 was a cold north wind as we were guided by our 
 bearer with a lantern along a rather rough track, 
 and crossed the railway to the Bungalow, a new 
 stone building, bare and cheerless as they make 
 them, standing all by itself in a stoney yard without 
 a tree near it. The dinner, or supper, was not 
 very rewarding, and we trudged back again to the 
 station in the cold moonlight. The station we 
 found quieter than usual. The servants of the 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR jy 
 
 resident had encamped upon the platform, and 
 formed picturesque groups around fires, cooking 
 and gossiping ; their master sleeping in the train, 
 which was drawn up ready to start for Udaipur 
 early the next morning. 
 
 It seems highly necessary for travellers in India 
 anywhere off the track of hotels to provide them- 
 selves with bedding of some sort, at least quilts, 
 rugs, sheets, and pillows. The nights at this time 
 of year in Rajpootana are quite cold, and warm 
 wraps are welcome. 
 
 The next morning we engaged a large elephant 
 — which waited at the station to take travellers to 
 Chitorgarh — to carry us to the fort and deserted 
 city on the height we could see from the station. 
 This was a distance of some seven miles there and 
 back, it was said. 
 
 The elephant was made by the driver to kneel 
 while we mounted, by means of a ladder of bamboo, 
 and seated ourselves on the flat, cushioned seat, 
 having a low hand-rail and a foot board, slung by 
 ropes. The elephant moved with a peculiar sway- 
 ing, swinging movement, not unlike that of a ship, 
 though regular. We started over a stretch of 
 rough, common-like ground, broken into hillocks 
 and hollows, overgrown with scrub bush, the track 
 not being very definite. The elephant picked its 
 way most carefully over the rough parts, especially 
 when descending a hollow. We reached a road- 
 way which led over a bridge across a river, and 
 brought us up to the city of Chitor at the foot of 
 the hill, and extending upon its lower slopes. W T e 
 entered the city through a Moslem arched gateway, 
 
 OF ~ ME " 
 OF 
 
78 TXDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 and threaded our way through the narrow streets, 
 our elephant filling the whole of the road-way. 
 Pottery, beads, glass bracelets, cheap lacquered 
 
 
 ':r ^ - 
 
 FIRST ELEPHANT RIDE. (CHITORGARH) 
 
 ornaments, and small merchandise of various kinds 
 were spread out on the ground, their proprietors 
 squatting by their stock in trade. The native 
 houses were small and low, for the most part hardly 
 more than huts of mud, roofed with sun-baked 
 tiles, laid scalewise over a trellis of bamboo, often 
 very dilapidated. There were remains of better 
 houses and older, with arcaded balconies, and here 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 79 
 
 and there we passed a small white-washed temple, 
 with quaint elephants with gay housings painted 
 in profile on the white walls each side the entrance. 
 These elephants are drawn in a very spirited 
 manner, and are generally represented going at a 
 trot, and full of action with trunk and tail in the 
 air, decorated with bells on his feet and gorgeous 
 red and yellow housings and domed howdah, set 
 off by the solid black of the elephant and his ivory 
 tusks, the turbaned driver flourishing- his goad. 
 From our commanding eminence, the elephant's 
 back, we could take a comprehensive survey of the 
 life of the city, and see the people at work at vari- 
 ous trades. The inhabitants did not take much 
 notice of us ; some would stare and others would 
 salaam as we passed. I imagine the elephant with 
 European travellers on its back not infrequently 
 passed through Chitor, although we managed to 
 startle a tethered camel in one of the streets con- 
 siderably, and the animal tugged at its rope and 
 plunged alarmingly at the sight of our elephant. 
 
 Leaving the city of Chitor, which seemed very 
 poverty-stricken, we reached the first gate of the 
 fortress, and began the ascent of some 200 or 300 
 feet. The road zig-zags up the side of the rocky 
 plateau, upon the summit of which the fort and 
 ancient city were built, the ancient capital of 
 Rajpootana. Massive walls protect this road on 
 the outer side, and a continuous warder's walk runs 
 along it, with flights of stone steps to the roadway 
 at intervals. We passed through five gateways on 
 the way up, generally enriched with sculptured 
 ornament — the last one, Ram Pol, being the rich- 
 
80 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 est, and this was finely carved with Hindu detail 
 and symbols, having friezes of elephants. There 
 have been extensive restorations at Chitor^arh. 
 The whole length of the wall seems to have been 
 gone over, and replastered, and in many places 
 rebuilt with new stone. The tops of the gates 
 were crenellated in a fashion which suesested a 
 perpetuation in stone of an earlier type of wooden 
 palisading, a horizontal band connecting the rounded 
 or pointed stone heads, the divisions between each 
 being continued below it. In many cases the old 
 massive wooden gates were left under the arch- 
 ways, bound with old iron bands. By the way, at 
 Ajmir we noted that the wooden doors of the 
 gateways to the courts were covered with old 
 horse-shoes nailed on, close together, in some 
 instances actually over the old rich carved work, 
 and apparently with the same idea of good 
 omen as is associated with the same emblem in 
 our country. 
 
 Arrived at the summit there were wonderful 
 ruins to be seen. Scattered over the plateau, half 
 overgrown, amid heaps of shattered stones and 
 carved fragments, there were the remains of 
 Mohammedan palaces and Hindu or Jain Temples, 
 rich within and without with intricate carving. 
 
 The ofuides showed us where the Hindu Oueen and 
 the women of the city, all suffocated themselves in a 
 subterranean chamber to escape their fate had they 
 fallen into the hands of the Mohammedan con- 
 querors, when Ala-ud-din took Chitor by storm in 
 1290. 
 
 The hand of the restorer was seen here aoain 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR Si 
 
 and had been in some parts rather too thorough. 
 I noticed an arcade over the gateway of the Mos- 
 lem Palace, which seemed to have been entirely 
 rebuilt in a kind of pale green marble, almost the 
 colour of jade, quite sharply cut and new, and out 
 of keeping with the old work more or less battered 
 and ruined around it. The famous Tower of Victory 
 had been extensively restored, even the carving in 
 parts recut. This is going too far, as it is impos- 
 sible to unite modern workmanship with old, even 
 in India. Watchful and careful, timely repair is 
 the only way to preserve ancient buildings, but 
 there should be no attempt made to replace lost 
 carving and decoration by modern imitation. 
 
 We entered over broken steps a wonderful Jain 
 temple, very richly carved, with a remarkable 
 domed ceiling over the central chamber, arranged 
 in a series of concentric circles, intersected by 
 figures of dancing girls, with emblems radiatino- 
 from the centre. Another Jain temple formed a 
 most picturesque pile, and a delightful mass of 
 light and shade filled in with intricate detail, in the 
 full sunlight. In these temples a favourite deity is 
 Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, whose carved 
 image constantly appears. 
 
 In one part of the ancient city we came upon 
 some natives preparing cotton yarn for hand weav- 
 ing. The yarn was stretched in long lengths across 
 horizontal canes supported by vertical ones. They 
 seemed to be cleaning the threads with combs and 
 brushes. The little black-bristled hand-brushes 
 placed on the top of the turbaned heads when not 
 in use had a very quaint effect. 
 
 F 
 
82 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Having explored the ruins of Chitorgarh, we re- 
 mounted our good elephant, which waited for us, 
 and descended, moving rather jokingly down the 
 long hill, and frightening a pony and a camel 
 tethered in the main street of Chitor. The sun 
 was now blazing, it being noontide, though tempered 
 by the still cool wind from the north, which we had 
 found really cold in the morning. 
 
 Returning the way we had come to our quarters at 
 the station, after taking tiffin at the bungalow we 
 arranged to go on to Udaipur in the morning, and 
 were advised to sleep in the train, which waited in 
 the station all night, and left at 6.20 a.m. for 
 Udaipur. So we packed up and went on board 
 and took our berths, which were on the whole more 
 comfortable than the station beds. 
 
 In the morning our compartment was invaded 
 by a young Indian who wanted a seat, but we had 
 kept it to ourselves during the night, which was 
 cold enough, and we were glad of all our wraps. 
 The young Indian was a pleasant, bright, and in- 
 telligent young fellow who spoke English well, well 
 clad in the style of a native gentleman, with plenty 
 of wraps and overcoats. He was obviously curious 
 about us, and wanted to know all we would tell him. 
 He seemed to have a great wish to see London, 
 and asked us about the cost of living there, and 
 whether a Hindu could live there according- to his 
 religion without meat. He described India as "a 
 poor country," and wondered that we should journey 
 so far to see it. He was bound for some town 
 where his father lived, sixty miles by tonga from 
 Udaipur, being under orders not to stop at the 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 83 
 
 latter place, as his father had told him there was 
 plague there, and wished him to come on. 
 
 The train passed through a very flat and rather 
 cheerless country, exceedingly dry, and for the most 
 part covered with long jungle grass, but varied here 
 and there by green crops under irrigation. 
 
 Camels were occasionally seen, generally ridden 
 by two men ; also there were many herds of oxen 
 and buffaloes. As usual, there were many interest- 
 ing types and groups to be observed at the stations. 
 
 Approaching Udaipur, the country broke into 
 hills and became more interesting. We reached 
 Udaipur Station about 1 1.30, and bidding good-bye 
 and exchanging cards with the young Hindu, we 
 parted with our baggage into a little open cart 
 called a " tum-tum," and were driven some distance, 
 along a dusty road, to the Udaipur Hotel, which 
 looked like an expanded bungalow with a second 
 storey added on. Here we found pleasant quarters 
 and decent beds. 
 
 At the table-d'hote there was a rather frigid 
 Anglo-Indian family, a colonel on a tour of official 
 inspection and his secretary and their ladies ; also 
 a voluble American lady, whom we had seen at 
 Ajmir, and a rather lofty and superior English 
 military man and his wife, who, we were after- 
 wards informed, were the guests of the Maharajah. 
 
 In meeting one's compatriots aboard or indeed 
 anywhere without an introduction one is reminded 
 by their manner strongly of the Oxford Don who 
 could not do anything to save an unfortunate 
 undergraduate from drowning because " he had not 
 been introduced." 
 
84 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Here, in a remote part of India, chance had 
 thrown half-a-dozen English people together at the 
 same table, and yet they would hardly speak to 
 each other, that is to say to any new-comer 
 outside their own party. Nothing, however, daunts 
 the American traveller, especially the American 
 lady. She ignores the social ice, or if she per- 
 ceives it she boldly breaks it with a hatchet, as it 
 were, rushing in under the guns of the most frigid 
 and unapproachable personalities with a cheerful 
 and persistent fire of conversation, poppingin leading 
 questions with the most artless and childlike con- 
 fidence. This mode of attack generally succeeds, 
 too, apparently. I have seen severe . English 
 official and military-looking men, after some show 
 of resistance, unconditionally surrender, and pre- 
 sently empty their intellectual pockets on the demand 
 of these light-hearted, table-d'hote, globe-trotting 
 inquisitors. 
 
 A picturesque feature of hotel life in India is the 
 impromptu bazaar formed under the arcade, which 
 always shades the rooms on the ground floor, by the 
 travelling merchants, who spread out their wares to 
 tempt the traveller. 
 
 In Rajpootana, the land of warriors, collections of 
 arms, swords, sword-sticks, knives and daggers, and 
 fearsome and wonderful blades of all sorts form a 
 conspicuous part of the stock-in-trade of these 
 native merchants, the glittering steel making a 
 brave show with the bright-coloured stuffs, jeweller}-, 
 and embroideries. At Udaipur they offered also 
 native pictures, painted in tempera, somewhat crude 
 but distinctly decorative, and complete with painted 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 85 
 
 borders or frames. They represented elephants, 
 tigers, maharajahs sabring wild swine, and such- 
 like, painted in profile in frank flat colours, the 
 
 RAJPUTS AND THEIR RARITIES. (UDAIPUR) 
 
 animals singularly faithful in silhouette to nature. 
 In dealing with these travelling traders, bargaining 
 is, of course, expected, and usually they are willing 
 to accept about half the price originally asked. 
 
 An impressive sight at Udaipur is the place of 
 tombs, or the burning-place, which is a beautiful 
 garden surrounded by a high wall, full of magnificent 
 domed tombs and cenotaphs. This is the place 
 where the Kings of Udaipur, since it became the 
 
86 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 capital of Rajpootana, have been buried, or rather 
 cremated, with their wives. The city of Udaipur 
 — a glimpse of which, with its crenellated walls and 
 the huge pile of the Maharajah's palace rising above 
 the trees, is seen from the hotel — is entered, after a 
 short drive through a fine double gateway. A huge 
 old mango tree grows over the street just inside. 
 Udaipur is a white town ; the streets are very 
 picturesque, having arcaded bazaars and pretty 
 fantastic balconies here and there, and the native 
 life is of course very varied and full of colour. 
 The main street rises up to the eminence on which 
 the palace stands. At an angle before this is 
 reached, a steep flight of white steps leads up to the 
 gate of the court of the great temple of Juggernath 
 — a Jain temple dedicated to Vishnu — the second 
 person in the Hindu Trinity. It was the finest of 
 its kind we have yet seen. We were allowed to 
 walk around the court and examine the carvings, 
 but not inside the temple. Two great stone 
 elephants stand facing one another at the entrance 
 to the court — a similar arrangement to that noted 
 at Ellora. There is an elaborate shrine over the 
 gateway in which is a seated bronze or brass figure of 
 Vishnu with his lotus flower, snakes, and other 
 emblems. The exterior of the temple is a 
 wonderful mass of carving. On the plinth was a 
 continuous narrow frieze of elephants on a small 
 scale, having the effect of a richly carved moulding ; 
 above this was a line of horses, all saddled and 
 bridled but without riders ; above this again was a 
 band of human figures. Over these were carved 
 on a larger scale a series of figures of dancing-girls 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 87 
 
 in different attitudes. These dancers always form 
 an important element in the carved decoration of 
 Jain temples. 
 
 We next visited the palace of the Maharajah, 
 which occupies the highest ground in the city of 
 Udaipur. It is a vast, romantic-looking pile. The 
 steep street leads the traveller up to a great arched 
 gateway, and through this is entered a large oblong 
 court. On the right, the vast white palace walls 
 rise to a great height, with hardly any windows, 
 but high up are seen fairy-like arcades, balconies, and 
 domed minarets, glittering with blue tile-work and 
 gold. 
 
 A native custodian conducted us over the Palace. 
 Entering an inner court, we ascended a steep stone 
 staircase at an angle, the treads rising about nine or 
 twelve inches high. There were native paintings on 
 the walls of richly caparisoned state elephants bearing 
 maharajahs, tigers, and other figures. We passed 
 through a succession of rooms and courts at 
 different levels, the walls of white marble inlaid 
 with a very fine sort of glass mosaic, not tessellated 
 but let in in pieces cut large or small according to 
 the forms to be expressed. These were generally 
 figures always in severe profile, in elaborate costume, 
 and jewels the details of which were carefully and 
 richly rendered. Flowers and delicate palm trees 
 varied the designs, clone in the same way, the leaves 
 and small component parts being cut complete in 
 the glass. There were also formal floral borders 
 outlining the arches of the arcades, and forming 
 ceiling patterns in some of the rooms, and on the 
 walls were hung in frames delicate paintings on 
 
88 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 vellum, heightened with gold, such as one sees in old 
 Indian illuminated MSS. In someof the corridors 
 it was rather a shock to see inserted in the windows 
 pieces of crudely stained European glass, such as 
 were in vogue in conservatories here in the 
 " forties." One room was entirely decorated with 
 coloured elass, the walls beinsf veneered with a 
 zigzag pattern in red and white glass. 
 
 Other and smaller rooms in the Zenana quarters, 
 which we had now reached, and all at the top storey 
 of the Palace, were lined with old Dutch tiles, 
 others again with Chinese blue and white tiles. 
 These rooms had graceful, arcaded balconies which 
 commanded extensive views. We had a bird's-eye 
 view of the palace courts and the stable yards, 
 where elephants were tethered in long rows, the 
 busy natives moving about with horses and oxen. 
 Beyond were seen the clustering, small white houses 
 with flat roofs, broken by domes here and there, 
 the green wooded country and the hills far away, 
 while on the other side of the palace the lake with 
 its pavilioned islands mirrored the sunset framed in 
 the blue mountains. 
 
 At night we frequently heard the weird cries of 
 the jackals which prowl around most places in 
 India after dark, and when all is quiet in human 
 habitations. It is a very wild, shrill sound, rising 
 almost to a shriek at times. We also thought we 
 caught another note — the laughter of the hyena. 
 
 A charming excursion by boat may be made 
 to the palace of Jagmandir, which occupies the 
 whole of an island on the lake, a fairy-like pavilion 
 enclosing luxuriant palms and fruit trees within its 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 89 
 
 courts and gardens in which one realised the 
 architecture and scenery of the Arabian Nights. 
 
 We reached the lakeside through a fine triple- 
 arched gate which led to a flight of steps descend- 
 ing into the water. Here a striking- scene burst 
 upon us. A crowd of dark Hindu women thronged 
 the steps, clad for the most part in rich red saris 
 of different tones, varied by orange and purple 
 drapery and the glitter of their silver bangles 
 and anklets. They were busy cleaning their brass 
 water jars, scrubbing and polishing them on the 
 steps at different levels ; some standing in the 
 water, whilst others, filling their vessels and poising 
 them on their heads, would move away stately and 
 erect, like walking caryatids. 
 
 Presently a rather heavy boat with two native 
 oarsmen, which had been summoned by our guide 
 moved from the palace to the steps and we, with 
 our bearer, embarked, and were rowed over to the 
 enchanting island and the fairy-like palace of 
 Jagmandir where Shah Jehan lived when in revolt 
 against his father, Jahangir. On the way we 
 rowed around another island showing white arcades 
 and domes emerging from green bowery foliage 
 of mangoes and palms. 
 
 Landing at the steps we found the Jagmandir a 
 most lovely place, full of arcaded courts, and marble 
 pavements, pointed windows and balconies and 
 marble walls enclosing green gardens full of roses, 
 and palms, and plantains, a kingly pavilion, 
 displaying all the invention and refinement of 
 Mogul art. Inside, too, the palace was full of 
 interest. There was a charming little painted 
 
oo INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 chamber, the walls treated in a sort of tapestry 
 manner with Indian scenes and decorative land- 
 scapes rich with trees and varied with all the 
 characteristic birds and animals (the white cranes 
 on the mango tree which we had seen in reality 
 at Ahmedabad were there) kites and crows, and 
 antelopes, and the Maharajah and his horsemen 
 hunting the tiger amid these painted forests and 
 jungles. On one wall the Maharajah himself was 
 painted at full length in profile in a white turban 
 and dress also white embroidered with gold, with 
 a gold nimbus about his head as he is supposed to 
 be descended from Rama, and is considered a sacred 
 person connected with the sun — a large sun face 
 modelled and guilded appears on the palace 
 wall. 
 
 Another room was said to have been painted by 
 a French artist. He had taken the lotus as a 
 motive and had tuned it into a formal scroll 
 pattern in the frieze, but it was not a success, and 
 had not the interest or the spirit or decorative 
 instinct of the native artist. 
 
 The chief salon had Parisian carpets on the floor, 
 and a dreadful blue glass chandelier, and other 
 horrors in glass and furniture of Western origin. 
 Opening out of this salon was a bedroom raised a 
 step or two on a higher level and the principal 
 feature here was a large bedstead in glass and 
 silver ! On the walls of one of the courts was a 
 decoration in gesso inlaid with glass, which was 
 both delicate and effective. There were fig-ures 
 decoratively treated in severe profile, combined 
 with trees and flowers somewhat Persian in feeling 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 91 
 
 and similar in style to some we had seen in the 
 Maharajah's palace. 
 
 From the landing-place I made a sketch of that 
 palace in the sunlight reflected in the calm waters 
 of the lake. Then, at noon we rowed back to the 
 town and returned in our tonga to the hotel. 
 
 Another of the sights of Udaipur is to see the 
 Maharajah's wild pigs fed. He has an arena near 
 the town for the cruel sport of pig-sticking, but 
 keeps vast herds of pigs upon the mountain sides 
 at the head of the lake. It is a beautiful drive to 
 the spot through the city and out at a further gate, 
 and through groves and along- a terrace-like road 
 by the lakeside, to a white building on a high 
 ground overlooking the wooded and rocky moun- 
 tain side, partially covered with low forest ; there 
 from a terrace we could see many swine feeding. 
 They are like a small kind of wild boar, but 
 differing in size, and very fierce, bristling their 
 backs and charging one another over the food, 
 which was Indian corn, scattered broadcast among 
 them by two natives, one carrying the sack of 
 grain and the other distributing it from a sort 
 trencher. There was a sort of Brobdingnagian 
 mouse-trap on the ground, presumably to catch 
 the boars in, when wanted for the arena. There 
 were but few boars at first to be seen, but they 
 seemed to know the feeding time, and gradually 
 gathered in large numbers, and when the grain was 
 scattered, by their constant rushes after it and 
 violent charges with each others soon raised such a 
 thick cloud of dust that they became lost to view 
 as in a thick mist, and could only hear their hoofs 
 
92 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 scraping over the rocky ground, and their savage 
 grunts and squeaks. A number of peacocks 
 hovered on the outskirts on the look out for stray- 
 grain as well as blue rocks and crows which often 
 perched on the hogs' backs ! The terrace from which 
 we surveyed this strange scene was really the para- 
 peted flat roof of the keeper's dwelling. A 
 flight of steps led up to a higher terrace which 
 surrounded a deep sort of bear-pit, where a select 
 family of hogs seemed to be treated with peculiar 
 distinction. Not for these the tierce struo-o-le for 
 grain upon the mountain side, where the battle was 
 to the strong ; no, these were fed upon a special 
 food— a sort of large brown rissole composed of 
 buttermilk and sugar-cane ; but the hogs were fat 
 and did not devour these attractive morsels, even 
 with half the zest which their less favoured relatives 
 outside ate up the scattered maize. The reason of 
 the comparative luxury in which these selected 
 hogs lived, we learned, was that they had fought 
 with tigers, and thus were treated as superior 
 beings, by order of the Maharajah. 
 
 The wooded shores of the lake and the moun- 
 tains beyond were very beautiful in the still 
 evening atmosphere, as we drove back to Udaipur, 
 the road by the lake being so narrow that two 
 carriages could not pass, and, meeting the Resident, 
 we had to pull in to one side to let his carriage 
 get by. 
 
 There was a charming view of Udaipur from 
 our hotel seen through the trees, the massive 
 Maharajah's palace dominating the city, and bathed 
 in the roseate early morning sunlight it looked 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 93 
 
 particularly lovely. I worked at a sketch of this on 
 Christmas morning ; I remember, having to be up 
 at seven o'clock in order to catch the effect, which 
 soon changed. We had the most brilliant moon- 
 light nights here, too. 
 
 We visited the Maharajah's gardens where was 
 a sort of Zoo. There were some handsome tigers 
 in rather small cages, hogs, leopards, one lion, 
 deer, guinea-pigs, geese, cockatoos, and other 
 birds and beasts, including some melancholy dogs 
 of various breeds, chained at intervals around a 
 courtyard. These were supposed to be in hospital. 
 
 From the Zoo we drove through a fine wooded 
 park to the Museum called the Victoria Institute, 
 where a native curator showed us round. It was a 
 white building in the Moslem style but quite new. 
 It included a library in which was placed a bad 
 statue of our late Queen. There were modelled 
 heads in coloured plaster, ranged in cases numbered 
 and ticketed, of all the Hindu castes, each with 
 their proper caste mark upon their foreheads. 
 There was a miscellaneous collection otherwise, 
 native arts and industries and antiquities, as well 
 as European, being represented very sparsely. 
 The whole thing had a sort of forced and artificial 
 character in such surroundings and was quite emptv 
 of visitors. We were, however, early there. 
 
 In driving through the gate of the city, a funeral 
 passed us — a band of young men bearing on a 
 stretcher the corpse which was swathed in red 
 cotton and tightly bound up like a mummy. The 
 bearers moved at a quick, almost jaunty pace, 
 approaching a trot, and with them were other 
 
94 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 natives who chanted a sort of song. If it was an 
 equivalent for a dirge it was quite a cheerful one 
 —but then the Hindus, as well as the Maham- 
 medans and Indians, look upon death as a happy 
 translation to another existence, and the accompani- 
 ments of gloom to which we are accustomed in 
 Christian countries have no existence here. 
 
 We departed, on Christmas Day in the morning, 
 from Chitor and Ajmir again, returning by the way 
 we came. Udaipur is at the end of the branch line 
 from Ajmir which has not I believe been in exist- 
 ence many years. 
 
 On the way to the station I noticed some very 
 primitive huts clustered in a group on a rising 
 ground above the road. They almost exactly 
 resembled the huts of the early Britons and Gauls 
 as they appear on Trajan's column, being circular 
 in form, built of mud or sunbaked bricks and roofed 
 with a sort of rude thatch laid over a bamboo 
 trellis. In this land of wonders and contrasts truly, 
 one sees everything both in customs and dwellings 
 from the most primitive to the most elaborate and 
 luxurious, from the most ancient to the most 
 modern forms of life. It is sad to note, however, 
 that at least as far as the outward aspects of life 
 are concerned, all that Western contact seems to 
 have done for the people of India is to intro- 
 duce corrugated iron, Manchester cotton, and the 
 kerosene can — -with petrol and its smell ! 
 
 At Udaipur station there was a great native 
 crowd of every variety of type, wonderful in colour 
 and costume. Many of the men carried sabres as 
 well as walking-sticks which seem to be the marks 
 
CHITORGARH AND UDAIPUR 95 
 
 of superior caste in Rajputana. There were, too, 
 the usual crowd of poorer travellers with their 
 extraordinary bundles and brown babies. A native 
 woman stood on the platform with a huge sheaf of 
 sugar-cane which she sold in pieces to the travellers, 
 and, of course, there were the sweet stuff sellers, 
 and the inevitable betel-nut. 
 
 Reaching- Chitorgarh in the late afternoon the 
 old fort with its zigzag walled road looked quite 
 familiar, and at the station our elephant was in 
 waiting again. 
 
 We could not get on to Ajmir until night, and 
 so did not arrive there until about 5.30 in the 
 morning. Coming from a plague-stricken district 
 passengers were not allowed to leave the train 
 until a medical inspection had taken place. An 
 English doctor with a native attendant bearing a 
 lantern came round and went through the farce 
 of feeling everybody's pulse before anybody was 
 allowed to leave the station. We only stopped, 
 however, to get some tea and await a train for 
 Jaipur, our next destination. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 JAIPUR 
 
 IN our travels through India we met compara- 
 tively few of our own countrymen and women. 
 The English (or the British) have not as yet taken 
 much to touring in the Empire of which such a 
 proud boast is constantly made. The English in 
 India are usually residents connected with, civil or 
 military posts. They go out to take up their official 
 duties, and directly they get leave they rush " home " 
 — England is always spoken of as " home,'' even 
 by residents in India of long standing. It generally 
 happens that the officials and their families are 
 quartered at some particular station in a particular 
 district, and may remain there all their time, so 
 that the English resident in India generally does 
 not see any other parts of the great peninsular, and 
 is not acquainted with the country beyond his own 
 district. A tourist, therefore, in a few months may 
 have a more complete general or even particular 
 acquaintance with India at large, as regards its 
 great cities and famous monuments, than many a 
 resident who has spent the best part of his life in 
 one station, and who always takes his leave at 
 " home." 
 
 French tourists are occasionally met with, but 
 Americans are the most numerous, and they are 
 
JAIPUR 97 
 
 met with everywhere. The early morning- train 
 we had taken from Ajmir to Jaipur was invaded 
 by a party of no less than forty of our Transatlantic 
 cousins, who overflowed it and filled our compart- 
 ment with an incredible amount of hand baggage. 
 They seemed to be, as far as one could make out, 
 connected with some mission. They reminded me 
 rather of a gathering in one of the cities of the 
 United States at which I was present (Philadelphia, 
 I think), where one of my American friends re- 
 marked, " Now, all these you see here are types, 
 but none of them are worth studying " ! 
 
 The country traversed between Ajmir and Jaipur 
 is mostly plain, and very desert-like in places, with 
 distant mountain ranges beyond, not unlike Arizona 
 in general character. Green crops under irrigation 
 are, however, occasionally seen, and among them 
 not unfrequently may be noticed a pair of large, 
 grey-plumaged cranes, feeding in the young corn, 
 which do not take to flight at the approach of the 
 train. We reached Jaipur about noon and put up at 
 Rustom's Hotel, a comparatively short drive from 
 the station. The hotel stands in the middle of a 
 large enclosure divided by a low wall from the high 
 road. Tents are pitched along one side of the build- 
 ing to afford extra sleeping accommodation, and a 
 sort of bungalow annexe is prepared to take overflow 
 guests. From pleasant rooms on the terrace we 
 had a view of the Tiger Fort and the road with its 
 constant procession of natives, ox-carts, and camels 
 and horsemen trooping into the city about a mile 
 off. A row of tall acacia trees screened the late 
 afternoon sun, and barred like fretwork the golden 
 
9 8 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 light of afterglow, and we often watched the pea- 
 cocks flying up to roost among the branches, their 
 beautiful forms silhouetted against the orange sky 
 between the interstices of the leaves. 
 
 The native proprietor, or manager, during the 
 preliminary ceremony of taking our names, and in 
 
 HOTEL ACCOMMODATION (JAIPUR), "FOR YOUR EASE AND 
 comfort" (or RATHER FOR THE EASING OF YOUR RUPEES?) 
 
 getting a form of application to the Resident rilled 
 up for permission to visit the Maharajah's palace 
 and the palace at Amber, made polite speeches, 
 expressing himself only anxious for "our ease and 
 comfort " — of course without any thought of pros- 
 pective rupees. Clusters of native huts built of 
 mud with thatched roofs occur at frequent intervals 
 around Jaipur outside the city walls ; from our 
 terrace at the hotel we could see several. There 
 was apparently a small village within a stone's- 
 
JAIPUR 99 
 
 throw. One evening the strains of what sounded 
 like a native chant or song in chorus were wafted to 
 us from this village, and we heard that a native 
 wedding was going on there ; but the illusion was 
 somewhat destroyed when we learned that the 
 supposed native music proceeded from the mouth 
 of a gramophone ! It is said that special ones are 
 now prepared for the Indian market with popular 
 native songs and music — another boon from the 
 West. 
 
 Jaipur is a city within high crenellated walls, 
 built of rubble and plastered with cement. The 
 same form of palisade-like battlement crested the 
 walls here as at Chitorgarh, and is the common 
 form in Mo<ju1 defensive buildings. Amonsf the 
 native huts which cluster outside the walls, I 
 noticed some of wicker ; many of the huts, too, 
 had wicker screens — a sort of lattice-work made of 
 bamboo — covering the otherwise open fronts. 
 
 Jaipur is known as the rose-coloured city. The 
 Maharajah must be very fond of pink, in fact 
 he may be said to have "painted the town red." 
 The whole of the main fronts of the houses facing 
 the streets are distempered in a kind of darkish 
 rose pink — really red — the rosy hue being largely 
 due to the luminous atmosphere in the full sunlight, 
 and it becomes still rosier in the flush of evening". 
 It is dark enough at anyrate to show a decoration 
 of lines of floral devices and patterns painted in 
 white upon the red walls. The whole scheme, no 
 doubt, was suggested by the red sandstone build- 
 ings inlaid with white marble which are the glory 
 of Delhi and Agra. It is not a sort of imitation 
 
ioo INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 calculated to deceive any one, however, but clearly 
 a scheme of painted decoration emulating the effect of 
 the solid materials mentioned. The city has, owing 
 to this treatment, a very distinctive scenic aspect of 
 its own, and is very striking, the brilliant and varied 
 pattern of vivid colour in the costume of the 
 natives in the bazaars, with this roseate background, 
 producing quite a unique effect. One has, however, 
 after a time an impression of unreality and unsub- 
 stantially, as of stage scenery which will presently 
 be shifted. The Maharajah of Jaipur has the 
 reputation of being very advanced and modern in 
 his ideas. He has at anyrate set up gasworks in 
 his city, which also possesses a large public garden 
 laid out in the European manner, and is both horti- 
 cultural and zoological, and contains a museum and 
 a bronze statue of Lord Mayo. 
 
 It seems rather a mistake, in a climate like that 
 of India, to lay out grounds with broad serpentine 
 paths and drives unshaded by trees, and vast lawns 
 which can only be kept up with a pretence of 
 greenness by constant and laborious watering. It 
 is another of the mistaken foreign importations. 
 The Eastern type of garden, on the other hand, is 
 quite appropriate and adapted to the necessities of 
 the climate. Its characteristics are narrow, straight 
 paths between closely planted groves of trees, 
 acacias, plantains, palms, and fruit trees, and varied 
 with tanks and fountains, and cool marble pavilions, 
 the whole enclosed in a protecting wall like an 
 earthly paradise. 
 
 It does not cheer the English traveller in the 
 East — at least I never heard that it did — to see a 
 
JAIPUR ioi 
 
 low wall surmounted by a cast-iron railing and 
 common-place but pretentious gates, enclosing a 
 joyless "public garden" of a British vestry type. 
 
 The proprietors of the art depots in the bazaars 
 of Jaipur are very enterprising, and resort to all 
 kinds of allurements to induce the traveller to enter 
 and purchase. To begin with, the tourist in his 
 carriage is peppered with a perfect hail of white 
 business cards flung at him by active touts, who are 
 always on the alert for the passing stranger in the 
 bazaars, who receives such seductive invitations as 
 "See my shop?" — "Very nice things" — "Don't 
 want you to buy — only to look ! " 
 
 We visited a large art-dealer's store. It was 
 prettily arranged around a small covered court, 
 lighted from the top. An arcade divided a series of 
 rooms along each side, both on the ground and on 
 a second floor. This court was richly carpeted and 
 furnished with seats, coffee tables, and divans. 
 One device of the proprietor or manager was to 
 invite prospective customers to witness a dance of 
 nautch girls in this court, presumably to conduce 
 to a favourable mood for extensive purchases. 
 
 At this place was a great display of Jaipur 
 enamels, applied in a variety of ways from small 
 jewellery to large, chased, brass dishes and trays. 
 I saw a large dish prepared by the native craftsman 
 (who was sitting at work at the entrance) for champ- 
 leve enamel, very deftly chased, though the modern 
 reproductions of the traditional Indian patterns 
 strike one as rather mechanical. The skill of the 
 craftsman is there, but the feeling and initiative of 
 the artist is too often wanting. 
 
102 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Rajput arms and armour hung on the white walls 
 of the court, and there was an immense stock of all 
 sorts of metal-work and jewellery, mostly modern, 
 and numbers of small portable articles in brass, 
 evidently meant for the eye and the pocket of the 
 tourist ; amongst these were quantities of small 
 pierced brass boxes in the form of cushions. I saw 
 some interesting old Indian miniature pictures from 
 MSS. — one of a rajah shooting a bow : he was 
 standing upon a globe which rested on the back of 
 an ox, which again stood upon the back of a fish. 
 
 There were some suits of chain mail of extra- 
 ordinary fineness, and wonderful engraved blades 
 of many kinds. Besides the well-known Jaipur 
 enamelled jewellery there was a quantity of precious 
 stones — garnets, amethysts, sardonyx, onyx, and jade. 
 Another speciality of Jaipur work are the charming 
 spherical rolling lamps. These are spheres of 
 brass chased and pierced all over with floral pattern, 
 and made to open. Inside, by a very ingenious bit 
 of mechanism, a small lamp is so suspended that it 
 always maintains a horizontal position, and though 
 the sphere may be rolled along the ground it never 
 upsets the lamp within. They are used in the 
 temples at festival times. These lamps are made 
 at the Art School at Jaipur, where many native 
 handicrafts are practised. 
 
 Continuing our drive about the city we were 
 introduced to the Maharajah's state elephant. He 
 was a fine beast, and occupied a low walled court, 
 all to himself and his keeper. His forehead, trunk, 
 and ears were decorated with an elaborate painted 
 arabesque — a pattern in which vermilion, yellow, 
 
'U 
 
 
 ZT^U 
 
JAIPUR 103 
 
 and turquoise predominated. His enormous tusks 
 had had their points truncated, and these were 
 tipped and bound with moulded bands of brass. 
 The animal was tethered by one of his hind feet 
 to a post, and stood in the shade of the high 
 palace wall, tranquilly munching stalks of some 
 kind of corn. I reproduce the sketch I made 
 at the time of the elephant and the old man, 
 his keeper. 
 
 After tiffin we visited the palace. One could 
 not say much for the taste of some of the decora- 
 tions. We were shown several large durbar halls 
 with open colonnades, which, however, were closed 
 by hangings, which ourguide — a tall, grey-whiskered 
 Rajput — lifted up to show the interiors. The 
 vaulted ceilings were painted with patterns on 
 rather a large scale and in crude reds and blues, 
 rather open and spread out over the white plaster, 
 and somewhat coarse in form. We were then led 
 through the gardens, which were laid out with long 
 tanks with flagged walks each side, lined with gas 
 lamps, but there was no water in the tanks. 
 Farther on we passed through a gateway at the top 
 of a flight of steps to the alligator tank. Here a 
 native attendant having tied a piece of meat to the 
 end of a string, another set up a curious weird call, 
 while yet another ran on to the shore of the lake 
 or tank, and did his best to wake up one or two 
 very torpid alligators which lay in the sunshine by 
 seizing hold of their tails and making them take to 
 the water. Finally, after much persuasion, two 
 alligators were induced to come up for the food. 
 One of these — an old one with no teeth (none of 
 
104 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 them have tongues) — opened its horrid white mouth 
 and snapped at the piece of meat which the man 
 dangled at the end of the string. Meanwhile big 
 yellow turtles swam up to join in the game, at 
 which they were much quicker than the alligators. 
 Large brown kites, too, seeing what was going on, 
 hovered about expectantly, and dexterously caught 
 fragments thrown to them in mid air. The 
 ubiquitous crow was there also, ready for any 
 unconsidered trifles. 
 
 The life of the bazaars at Jaipur is singularly 
 varied and interesting. The streets are unusually 
 wide as native streets go in India. They find room 
 to shake out long strips of newly dyed cotton to 
 dry — a man holding the cloth at each end 
 and waving it wildly about to dry, so that great 
 plashes of yellow or orange and pink are apt to 
 illuminate the streets here and there, as this process 
 is a frequent incident. The brightest red, yellow, 
 green, and blue and pink are also seen in the 
 costumes or rather draperies of the people — the 
 Hindu women in their graceful saris, generally in 
 different shades of red ; the Mohammedan women 
 veiling their heads and shoulders in some vivid- 
 coloured muslin — so that one had a general im- 
 pression of people walking about attired in rain- 
 bows. Quaint, two-wheeled vehicles were numerous, 
 often elaborately painted and decorated, called 
 recklas, having awnings over them, and were driven 
 by a superior caste of natives — possibly they might 
 be a sort of equivalent for the gig of respectability 
 which Carlyle writes of. Then there were the 
 heavier ox-carts of the peasant, some of them with 
 
JAIPUR 105 
 
 a domed cover draped in red within which hidden 
 from view sat the women and children. Another 
 kind of cart was built of bamboo, a curious lattice 
 of the same forming the pole and yoke for a pair of 
 oxen. 
 
 Shaving, massage, cleaning teeth, washing, and 
 all the necessary operations, which in the west are 
 generally performed in private, are in Indian native 
 quarters carried on in the open. The natives do 
 not seem to know what privacy is or to feel the 
 need of it. The little naked brown babies every- 
 where playing freely about are delightful. 
 
 Great flocks of pigeons (blue rocks) are always 
 flying about or swooping down to be fed with grain 
 in the open spaces by women ; but they are driven 
 away from the heaps of grain for sale in the 
 bazaars. 
 
 The women carry everything upon their heads, 
 and seem to do most of the porterage — bearing 
 endless baskets of brown fuel made in rough flat 
 cakes, bundles of wood, straw, sugar-cane, green 
 stuff, bedding, and water jars. In Raj pu tana the 
 women wear a rather full skirt under the sari, in 
 many pleats rather after the style of an Albanian 
 Fustanella. Masses of bracelets, some times 
 completely covering their brown arms, are worn, 
 either of coloured glass, or lacquered metal, or 
 silver, and silver anklets as a rule with little 
 bells attached. 
 
 Armed horsemen are frequently seen riding in 
 from or out into the country. Elephants, camels, 
 and flocks of goats vary the street scenes, 
 and residents' carriages with outriders ; camels 
 
io6 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 are also sometimes used to draw vehicles, driven 
 in pairs. 
 
 Musicians, with the peculiar long handled Indian 
 guitar, jugglers, conjurers, snake charmers, vendors 
 
 ^nnorf 
 
 TO AMBER ON AN ELEPHANT 
 
 of stuffs and embroideries, and photograph sellers 
 haunt the open arcades of the hotels and use every 
 device to attract the attention of travellers. 
 
 A visit to the deserted city of Amber and its 
 palace is one of the principal excursions outside 
 Jaipur. It is best to start early in the morning, as 
 
JAIPUR 107 
 
 there is a four to six miles drive by carriage to reach 
 the place whence the ascent to Amber on elephants' 
 backs is made. The road thither takes the visitor 
 through a section of the city of Jaipur, and passes 
 out on the other side into a road skirted with trees 
 and gardens, from amidst which rise the domes of 
 the pavilions of wealthy Rajputs. The Alligator 
 lake is again passed, and some distance beyond this 
 the foot of the hill is reached, when the traveller is 
 expected to leave his carriage and mount one of 
 the elephants in waiting there to take him up to 
 Amber — another two miles. 
 
 It is necessary to be furnished with a formal 
 permission from the Resident to visit Amber. 
 Formerly elephants were placed at the disposal of 
 visitors by the Maharajah, but since tourists became 
 numerous elephants must be hired by them. They 
 are by no means richly caparisoned elephants. 
 The housings leave much to be desired, and the 
 seats are much out of repair, and one is lucky to 
 find the foot-board slung at a usable level and 
 fairly horizontal, and if the protecting rail of the 
 seat does not slip out. 
 
 For those who are willing to sacrifice processional 
 dignity and spectacular effect, however, as well as 
 a slow shaking, it is quite possible to walk — for the 
 able bodied, and before the sun is high. 
 
 After a steepish hill at first the road descends 
 again, and passing along the border of a small lake, 
 turns round at its head and a^ain ascends to the 
 palace on a considerable height, of which a distant 
 view is obtained, as one approaches it, from the 
 road. It is a striking pile of Mohammedan archi- 
 
108 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 tecture. Three great gateways are passed on the 
 steep approach up the rocky sides of the hill, and the 
 road is protected by a wall, as at Chitorgarh. 
 Finally the great gateway leading into the courtyard 
 of the palace is reached, and we dismount from the 
 elephant and are surrounded by a number of 
 hangers-on, one of which comes forward to act 
 as guide over the palace, which showed traces ot 
 considerable restoration. The great doors of solid 
 brass were exceedingly fine (both here and at the 
 Maharajah's palace in Jaipur — really the best things 
 there). There were also doors beautifully inlaid 
 with ivory and ebony to some of the zenana rooms, 
 all the doors beino- interesting- for their woods and 
 joinery. There were some delicate pierced marble 
 screens over the gateway of the inner court which 
 had a most lovely effect seen against the sky. The 
 rooms were very elaborately decorated with a sort 
 of veneer of small pieces of looking-glass arranged 
 in arabesque, and united by cloisonne of gesso form- 
 ing the lines of divisions of the pattern, similar to that 
 we had seen at Udaipur. This decoration, carried 
 all over a vaulted ceiling - , in the sunlight reflected 
 from the floor, glittered like beaten silver. On the 
 lower halls were delicate marble panels of floral 
 designs in relief. 
 
 The palace as a whole did not strike us as so 
 beautiful as that at Udaipur, although vastly more 
 so than the Maharajah's at Jaipur. 
 
 From the roof and terraces we looked clown on 
 gardens and pavilions and on the lake below, then 
 partially dry, and wondered how this vast palace 
 with all its luxurious decoration came to be deserted. 
 
JAIPUR 
 
 109 
 
 A temple at the main entrance, however, is still 
 maintained for worship, which is that of Kali — one 
 of the aspects or secondary characters of Parvati, 
 the wife of Siva — a savage, blood-thirsty goddess 
 
 
 ( V 
 
 SHOPPING IN JAIPUR 
 
 only propitiated by animal sacrifices. A goat or a 
 kid is still sacrificed daily here. It was pathetic 
 enough to see the innocent, unconscious intended 
 victim — a poor little kid tied at the corner of the 
 platform of the temple by a little heap of sand. Mr 
 W. S. Caine gives a graphic account of how the 
 head of the victim is instantaneously cut off by the 
 
no INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 officiating priest, an act he witnessed, but we felt 
 no desire to see this execution. 
 
 On our way back I saw a curious instance of 
 the boldness of a kite and the unerring way in 
 which they swoop at their prey. A native was 
 walking down the hill in front of us carrying- a piece 
 of bread in his hand, from which he ate, swinging it 
 at his side between whiles. A kite hovering above 
 made a sudden swoop at the bread, which he struck 
 with his beak, scattering the crumbs, though he 
 did not succeed in knocking it quite out of the 
 man's hand. 
 
 Driving in the evening through the bazaars at 
 Jaipur we stopped the carriage to purchase some 
 native cottons and muslins, and were immediately 
 surrounded by a noisy, struggling crowd of rival 
 traders who filled the carriage with their gay 
 coloured stuffs, and literally covered us up with 
 them. Our bearer negotiated the bargains, and in 
 the end we carried off some characteristic textile 
 souvenirs. On the way back to our hotel we 
 stopped to see the Maharajah's horses, passing 
 through a gateway into a large exercise ground, 
 down the sides of which ran a long open shed, 
 with horses tethered in a line, each horse being 
 secured by long ropes from each hind fetlock 
 fastened to pegs on iron rings fixed in the ground, 
 which sloped down to the open court. In addition 
 to these each horse was tied by a halter, with a rope 
 each side to rings in the manger, and all, of course, 
 had cloths on. There were no partitions be- 
 tween the animals, which I suppose was the reason 
 of their being so carefully secured. There were 
 
JAIPUR 1 1 1 
 
 some very fine animals among them, and the 
 native grooms were very willing to show them 
 off — for a little backsheesh. There were white 
 Arabs, Walers, English hunters, and a tiny Burmese 
 pony. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 AGRA 
 
 WE left Jaipur for Agra on the 29th of 
 December, finding the usual excited crowd 
 at the station. The train passed through a rather 
 dry, plain country, though varied by crops under 
 irrigation. We changed at a junction named 
 Bandakni, the train we were in going on to Delhi. 
 It was a refreshment station. Here a good tiffin was 
 procurable. Going on about 4.30 in the afternoon, 
 we entered a more fertile and interesting country, 
 the crops being more abundant, and the wells also. 
 There were some fine groves of trees, and distant 
 ranges of hills to be seen. Curious mounds and 
 tumbled boulders varied the plains here and there 
 in places. Peacocks were plentiful, and they even 
 occasionally strayed on to the railway metals at the 
 stations. Antelopes were also to be seen, and once 
 an animal resembling a wolf was seen in the jungle. 
 A jungle, by the way, is not necessarily a slice of 
 tropical forest, full of long grass, tangled creepers, 
 and tigers, but may be any bit of uncultivated 
 country. 
 
 We reached Agra about 9 p.m. after a comfortable 
 journey. We put up at the Metropole Hotel — a kind 
 of extended bungalow, with a two-storied centre and 
 two lone, low wings of rooms under the usual arcaded 
 
AGRA 113 
 
 arrangement, with a garden in the middle. The 
 rooms were spacious and lofty, but bare, cheerless 
 and cold. The traveller of course must not 
 expect any old - fashioned welcome or personal 
 interest in his comfort or welfare in any country at 
 any modern hostelry in these days. He writes or 
 wires for his room, and he may be thankful if it is 
 ready for him when he arrives. He must be 
 content to be merely No. So-and-so, and may not 
 even see the host or manager at all. There was, 
 naturally, more or less of a rush on Agra about this 
 time, as the preparations for the reception of the 
 Amir of Afghanistan were far advanced, and dis- 
 tinguished visitors were beginning- to arrive. The 
 English tourist who had not furnished himself with 
 introductions in such a place was apparently re- 
 garded as a mere worm by the superior military 
 and official British circles. 
 
 Driving - to the fort next morning we were 
 stopped by an English sentry, who produced a 
 written card of Regulations forbidding the entrance 
 of carriages, so we got out and walked through the 
 Emperor Akbar's great Delhi gate (1566), which 
 is on a fine scale, and passed on to the Pearl 
 Mosque, the Moti Musjid, built by Shah Jehan in 
 1654— the private chapel of the court of the Mogul 
 Emperors — a beautiful white marble building in a 
 fair court. An Arabic inscription records when it 
 was built and why. 
 
 We passed on to the great square of the fort 
 which was busily preparing for the reception of 
 the Amir, who was expected to arrive on the 9th 
 of January. They were actually building out an 
 
n 4 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 extra portico in solid masonry adding it on to the 
 existing Durbas Hall (Diwan-i-Khas), which was so 
 blocked with workmen and materials it was not 
 possible to see much inside, and our bearer, who 
 was by way of acting as guide when he could, was 
 roughly turned back by an English official. We 
 made the round of the great Akbar's Fort, which 
 is certainly on a noble scale, and returning to the 
 Delhi gate by ugly and mean British barrack 
 buildings, which have been put up within its massive 
 walls, we could not but be struck with the contrast 
 between the work of one Empire and that of 
 another. Over Akbar's great gate, however, 
 floated our Union Flag. 
 
 Our next expedition was to the renowned 
 Taj Mahal, the beautiful marble tomb erected 
 by Shah Jehan in memory of his favourite wife, 
 and which was to be his own monument also. 
 The way thither lies through the cantonments and 
 the government gardens. We passed through 
 great encampments, then in a state of busy prepara- 
 tion. On the road was being erected a large 
 triumphal arch in the Moslem style, upon which 
 native workmen were engaged painting and 
 decorating. Native police in khaki and red 
 turbans lined the route at intervals, and saluted 
 as we drove past. The Viceroy's camp was 
 beautifully laid out and arranged with turf, walks, 
 and flowers. We saw a procession of native women 
 carrving palms and plants in pots on their heads, 
 from ox-carts unloading them, for the camp. 
 Camping in India, indeed, seems to be a fine art, 
 and is carried out in every detail with the utmost 
 
 
AGRA 
 
 1 1 
 
 completeness. In the government gardens the 
 ideas of the English landscape gardener were in 
 evidence. They were laid out with serpentine 
 
 LQJ 
 
 > 
 
 
 AGGRAVATING AGRA 
 
 walks and drives in the modern public parks style, 
 the large shadeless stretches of would-be turf 
 struggling to show a little green under repeated 
 waterings, with groups of young trees here and 
 there. A big statue of Queen Victoria was placed 
 conspicuously on the high ground in the centre of 
 
n6 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 one of these desert-like lawns. A little beyond we 
 came to the magnificent gate of the Taj, a noble 
 structure of red sandstone and white marble, 
 approached by steps. Passing through its deep 
 shadow under the great arch the wonderful tomb 
 in all its pearly whiteness, with its graceful dome 
 and slender minarets, rising sparkling in the full 
 sunlight above a green bower of trees against the 
 deep blue of the sky, and reflected in the still water 
 of the long tank, breaks upon the sight like a 
 fairy vision. The tank with terraced walks, 
 flagged with stone, extends from the steps of the 
 entrance gateway to the front of the Taj itself, 
 its long line only broken by a raised marble terrace 
 with seats about half way. Rows of slender 
 cypresses enforce the long perspective which leads 
 the eye up to the shrine. The Moslems certainly 
 felt the importance of spacing and proportion, and 
 the art of leading the eye and preparing the mind 
 for the appreciation of beautiful art and archi- 
 tecture by careful planning of the setting and 
 surroundings of their great temples and tombs. 
 Space is as important an element in their design 
 as the exquisite handicraft which produced their 
 unrivalled detail, \ The Taj itself is on a raised 
 platform of stone, and is flanked on each side by- 
 two noble mosques of red sandstone splendidly 
 inlaid with white marble/, It was the rich 
 decorative effect of such materials no doubt which 
 suggested to the Maharajah of Jaipur the painting 
 of his town red, which I refer to in a previous 
 chapter, but the reality compared with the imitation 
 is as wine to water. 
 
THE TAJ MAHAL, FROM THE GATEWAY 
 
AGRA 1 1 7 
 
 The Taj first impresses one by its beautiful 
 proportion, and the completeness of its ensemble. 
 It is like a fair woman whose general carriage and 
 aspect charms the eye before we are near enough 
 to appreciate the full beauty of her face and 
 form, or to note the exquisite taste of her delicate 
 attire. 
 
 As one approaches this wonderful shrine which, 
 although so ornate, possesses a fine breadth in 
 general effect, the beauty and finish of its 
 decorative detail excites a new admiration. There 
 are delicate designs of lilies and tulips and crown 
 imperials cut in marble in low relief, forming the 
 panelling of the lower walls. These are framed in 
 small-scale, formal Moral designs, inlaid with precious 
 stones, such as jasper, coral, bloodstone, sardonyx, 
 lapis-lazuli, onyx, turquoise, and other kinds done in 
 a manner associated with Florentine work, and it is 
 said Italian workmen were employed here. Then 
 we have the crowning beauty of the pierced work 
 in the marble screens which enclose the tombs, and 
 break the brilliant light at the apertures under the 
 dome. These are the jewellery and lace of this 
 architectural personality. There is something of 
 the fine lady about her — if one may use the personal 
 pronoun, but one cannot forget the twenty thousand 
 workmen whose twenty-two years' toil contributed 
 to her splendour ; and it is recorded, too, that their 
 work was done under conditions of semi-starvation, 
 and at the price of many lives, over and above the 
 four millions of money at which the cost is usually 
 estimated. Well, it remains their monument as 
 well as that of Shah Jehan and his wife Arjamand 
 
n8 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Banu : 1648 is the date of the completion of the 
 Taj. 
 
 I was somewhat disappointed not to find the 
 eastern garden described by Edwin Arnold, and 
 which was seen here by Mr W. S. Caine — a bowery, 
 romantic garden full of fruit trees — "orange and 
 lemon, pomeloes, pomegranates, palms, flowering 
 shrubs and trees, with marble fish-ponds and 
 fountains, speaking of the East in every whisper 
 of their leaves and plash of their waters." There 
 is still a charming garden, but an Anglicised one, 
 with open lawns, broken by masses of beautiful and 
 varied but rather consciously and professionally 
 arranged trees and shrubs and palms. The hand 
 and taste of the modern gardener is a little 
 too evident. It looks as if the original some- 
 what wild and characteristic Eastern garden had 
 been taken in hand by an expert from Kew, and 
 it had been tamed, its wild locks cut off, and the 
 remainder combed and brushed. 
 
 There is an English country-seat or even 
 surburban suggestion about it in parts. I can- 
 not but think that it was a pity not to maintain 
 the garden in its Eastern character, considering 
 the monument it encloses. However, it would 
 take even more professional treatment to 
 prevent beautiful trees and flowers from being 
 delightful. 
 
 The garden is still a pleasant place to wander 
 in, and interesting views of the white domes and 
 minarets, rising above masses of foliage, can be had 
 everywhere in it. Here, at the end of December, 
 one enjoyed the temperature, and the sunshine, 
 
AGRA 
 
 119 
 
 tempered by the shade of trees, of a normal June 
 day in England. 
 
 As regards the garden, j was ^ \^ tna ^ w hen it 
 was in its original state as a fruit garden a certain 
 amount of revenue was realised by the sale of the 
 
 THE MAINSTAY OF TNDIA. AQUARIUS — THE WATER-BEARER 
 
 produce. When Lord Curzon heard of this he 
 considered it not fitting, and I understood that he 
 was responsible for the alteration in the character 
 of the garden, which requires the constant attention 
 of the water-bearer with his goatskin. 
 
 Agra possesses a fine mosque in the Jama Musjid, 
 built by Shah Jehan in 1644. It is a building of 
 red sandstone and white marble. The big dome 
 is inlaid in zigzags of white marble and red sand- 
 
120 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 stone alternately, the whole surface being covered 
 in this way with striking effect. 
 
 It is an interesting drive through the bazaars and 
 over the bridge of boats across the river Jumna, and 
 through a native village, to the mausoleum of Itmad- 
 ud-Daulat. In this beautiful building, which is 
 approached through a massive arched gateway of 
 red sandstone and across a walled garden, one sees 
 a prototype of the Taj Mahal. In this case there 
 is a central dome and four minarets, only the cupola 
 is lower and of a flatter curve, and the minarets are 
 not detached from the body of the building which 
 is much lower than the Taj. In the design and 
 execution of its decorative detail, however, it 
 surpasses the Taj in inventiveness, and variety 
 and richness, both in pierced and carved work and 
 \\s>pietra dura. The detail of the Taj, beautiful and 
 finely finished as it is, has in comparison, perhaps, 
 rather the look of having been done to order, 
 whereas in buildings of earlier date like this one we 
 seem to see the more spontaneous invention of the 
 craftsman. The restoring hand of Lord Curzon, 
 however, has touched this monument also, and a 
 new marble balustrade around the flat roof has 
 been added under his orders. There are lovely 
 views from the minarets. 
 
 We visited the Taj Mahal again by moonlight. 
 It was the 30th of December and the moon was 
 full, but it was chilly driving out after dinner and 
 wraps were necessary. There was a light mist 
 from the river which hung over the garden, and 
 slightly veiled the lower part of the building as we 
 approached it down one of the long paths chequered 
 
AGRA 121 
 
 by the shadows of the trees. The front was in 
 shadow and looked mysterious in the mist, but the 
 dome seemed made of pearl rounded in the full 
 moonlight in splendid relief against the dark deep 
 blue of the night powdered with brilliant stars, 
 while the four minarets were like helmeted sentinels 
 in shining armour, ouardino- the sacred shrine. 
 
 The moonlight was bright enough for me to 
 make a sketch by. I also made two coloured 
 drawings of the Taj by daylight, one of which — 
 " the Taj Mahal from the rose garden " was after- 
 wards purchased by H.M. The Queen, and the 
 other, from the gate, is reproduced here. Agra 
 was full of British and native soldiers, and more 
 were continually arriving. We passed trains of 
 field artillery marching through the government 
 gardens, and bell tents covered the ground like 
 mushrooms. In many places earth banks had 
 been cut in tiers for seats, and strings of small flags 
 fluttered across many of the streets, and there were 
 also seats and stands of timber being erected. 
 Agra could think of nothing but the Amir. 
 
 The English and other churches are not admir- 
 able examples of modern architecture, and never 
 seem to look at home in India. There was a 
 Roman Catholic Church here after the manner of an 
 eighteenth century one, but any merit it might have 
 had was obscured by its colour. It had been, so to 
 speak, put into a grey uniform with buff facings. 
 The English Church was treated in the same way. 
 This must be military influence. My impression 
 certainly was that civilians did not count for much 
 at Aora. 
 
i22 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 In the bazaars we found we were able to make 
 purchases with rather less accompaniment of drama 
 than at Jaipur. European goods were much in 
 evidence, of the cheap and nasty sort as a rule, ugly 
 socks and scarves and cottons, and tin ware. I saw 
 a crowd of natives clustering round the trumpet 
 mouth of a gramophone — an instrument which 
 seems to have considerable charms for them. 
 
 It was chilly enough in the early mornings and in 
 the evenings at Agra, and our ground-floor rooms 
 were none of the warmest, although, of course, the sun 
 was very powerful in the middle of the day. The 
 Hotel proprietors were' looking forward to full 
 houses and high prices during the Amir's visit, and 
 enormous sums were mentioned as probable charges 
 for rooms, but we had no intention of staying 
 through the festivities. 
 
 Our last excursion from Agra was to Sikandra — 
 five miles away to the North West — where we 
 drove to see the tomb of Akbar. The road was a 
 dusty one, but through pleasant acacia avenues. 
 We passed through several mud-built villages, and 
 presently saw white minorets rising above a belt of 
 trees in the distance. At one part of the road 
 where the square tower of an English Mission 
 Church was seen among trees we were reminded 
 for a moment of a bit of Norfolk, but only for a 
 moment. Soon we reached the great red-stone 
 gateway which was on a splendid scale, and 
 elaborately inlaid with marble, exceedingly fine in 
 style, parts had been restored, and all the four 
 white marble minarets were said to be new and 
 placed there by Lord Curzon, not I presume without 
 
 
AGRA 123 
 
 good evidence of the former existence of such 
 minarets, but such renewals cannot possess any 
 historic interest and are in doubtful taste. The 
 gate was adorned with Togra and Arabic inscrip- 
 tions, which, cut in sunk relief in white marble, 
 formed a frame work enclosing panels of larger 
 pattern in marble inlay. Pilasters of red sandstone 
 on the front were in zigzag courses, alternately 
 white and red, like the work on the dome of the 
 Jama Musjid at Agra. 
 
 From the gateway a long and broad flagged way, 
 intersected by tanks, led us up to the tomb, across a 
 wide park full of fine trees, tamarinds and mangoes 
 chiefly. Arrived at the great tomb, the cupolas of 
 which we had seen in front of us as we walked, we 
 first entered a sort of hall or atrium with richly 
 decorated roof and walls in coloured plaster, 
 heightened with gold, and with an Arabic text in 
 ofold running round the frieze. There were 
 beautiful designs of trees and vines in panels. Parts 
 had been picked out in new gold and colour, at 
 somebody's expense, to bring out the pattern, but 
 the new work looked hard and mechanical though 
 on good lines, and the new gold was staring ; the 
 effect of this partial restoration being of course 
 patchy. Still, if such restorations are allowable 
 at all, it is better that they should be frank and 
 make no pretence at being really a part of the 
 original work. It would, however, in this case have 
 been far better to have left it alone, as the old gold 
 and colour still remaining on the walls and vault 
 was rich and deep in tone. 
 
 From this hall we entered a small corridor, two 
 
i2 4 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 native attendants going before us with lanterns to 
 guide our steps. This passage led into a vast dark 
 domed chamber, in the midst of which was the 
 plain marble tomb of the great Akbar. It was im- 
 pressive in its simplicity, without any inscription or 
 ornament, the usual narrow parallelogram with a 
 moulded base. One of the men uttered a deep 
 prolonged note like the exclamation Ah ! but sus- 
 tained and dwelling on the A. This was answered 
 by a profound and long-continued echo or reverber- 
 ation, dying gradually away, caused I suppose by 
 the height and shape of the dome. One might 
 imagine it was the voice of the dead Emperor. 
 After seeing three more tombs, one of which was 
 richly and delicately carved (a lady's), we ascended 
 to the terraced roof, and from there to a second 
 arcaded terrace, from which still a third was reached 
 up steps of ever increasing height in the treads, 
 and finally to a top story, emerging upon a beautiful 
 spacious arcaded court of white marble, but with 
 warm tints in it which made it very much the tone 
 of ivory. There were delicate, pierced, marble 
 screens on each side, through which the evening 
 sun sparkled like gold. In the centre of the court 
 on a raised dais was the second tomb of Akbar, 
 according to the usual Mohammedan custom of 
 placing an upper tombstone to indicate the position 
 of the actual tomb in the vault below. This tomb 
 was most elaborately and delicately carved in white 
 marble, with beautifully designed floral patterns 
 and Arabic texts and borders of scroll work, which 
 were like reproductions in marble relief of the 
 designs in the best type of Persian carpets. The 
 
AGRA 
 
 125 
 
 aged native custodians told us that the famous koh- 
 i-noor diamond was once here on Akbar's tomb. 
 It might be interesting" to trace its history to its 
 present position. 
 
 The foliated cresting of the parapet of this 
 marble court was also delicately carved. Altogether 
 the building was one of the finest things of its type 
 we had yet seen in India. The blend of Hindu 
 construction with Mogul work in the corbelled 
 supports of the minarets was noticeable. These 
 corbels were trebled at the angles, and like most 
 of the buildino- were of red sandstone. 
 
 There was a fine view of the country from this 
 highest story of the tomb, and we could even see the 
 white dome of the Taj Mahal five or six miles 
 away. The drive from Agra took about an hour, and 
 the sun had set before we returned. 
 
 This being New Year's day Moonsawmy our 
 bearer smilingly came up with an offering — a plum 
 cake with a pink sugared top and " A Happy New 
 Year" on it, as if it had come out of an English 
 confectioner's — and this, too, was accompanied by a 
 garland of yellow and white flowers after the native 
 manner — one for each of us. He said this was 
 customary, and with his good wishes he managed 
 to convey a gentle hint that his "jentilmens " 
 usually made him a little present in return. This 
 rather rubbed a little of the sugar off, but, of course, 
 we did not forget him. He was not a bad servant 
 on the whole, though rather too old and cunning a 
 bird in some ways. He had rather extravagant 
 ideas in ordering carriages, which we afterwards 
 discovered were not totally unconnected with 
 
126 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 certain commissions extracted from the carnage 
 proprietors. No doubt, however, native bearers 
 regard the European tourist as fair game — it is not 
 unheard of in Europe — and they, like other classes 
 after their manner, lose no opportunity of making 
 the most of the chances of their rather uncertain 
 profession. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 GWALIOR 
 
 WE left Agra for Gwalior on the 2nd of 
 January. Departing from Agra Road 
 about 1 1 in the morning we arrived at Gwalior 
 between 3 and 4 o'clock in the afternoon. We 
 hoped to meet an Indian friend here, who was a 
 doctor in the suite of the Maharajah, and whom we 
 had known in London when he was studying for 
 his degree. He was, however, absent at Calcutta, 
 so we had to shift for ourselves. There was, how- 
 ever, an excellent guest-housebuilt by the Maharajah 
 for the use of visitors to Gwalior, not far from the 
 station, where we found comfortable quarters, very 
 superior to most of the hotels we had had experi- 
 ence of. The building- itself was a charming- 
 pavilion in the Mogul style, with domes, arcades, 
 and pierced stone work balconies, and elaborately 
 carved doorways, the material of which it was built 
 being a sort of yellow sandstone. We were allotted 
 a spacious room opening on to a pleasant terrace 
 and connected with balconies which extended 
 entirely around the house, and from here we could 
 see the famous Rock of Gwalior with its fort and 
 Temples and the old palace of Man Mandir con- 
 spicuous at its further end. There was a large 
 central hall or living room, and in this was a 
 
128 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 blazing fire which shed its cheery light and welcome 
 warmth. There was a good piano and English 
 furniture. There was a sort of clerestory high in 
 the lofty wall, but no direct light, so that in the 
 daytime this room was in comparative gloom, by 
 no means ungrateful after the glare of the sun. 
 The dining room was fully lighted and opened on 
 to a portico. In front of the building was a garden 
 with a rather burnt up piece of lawn encircled by a 
 carriage drive. 
 
 We found a singular silent and reserved company 
 of Anglo-Indians at dinner — a lady and three 
 gentleman — only one of the latter manifesting the 
 slightest interest in us. No one appeared at 
 breakfast the following morning but an English 
 governess and a child she was in charge of. 
 
 We started in a carriage to drive to the fort, 
 stopping on the way to see the tomb of Mohammed 
 Ghaus, the dome of which is visible from the guest- 
 house. It is a noble tomb of yellow sandstone, 
 with fine screen-work. It dates from the early 
 part of Akbar's reign. We crossed a river by a 
 bridge and entered a decayed-looking native town, 
 passing up a straggling street of low houses to the 
 first o-ate of the fortress. There we mio-ht have 
 hired an elephant to take us up the steep road to the 
 fort, but the elephant had been already bespoke by 
 a party of British officers. A palanquin (or 
 jhampan) was produced, however, in which my 
 wife seated herself and was carried up the hill by 
 four bearers, four more accompanying them as 
 relays. As for me I preferred to walk up, and our 
 Moonsawmy went with us. We passed through 
 
GWALIOR 
 
 129 
 
 several gateways. The Hindu carvings of one 
 called the Ganesha Gate had been defaced by the 
 
 TO GWALIOR FORT BY PALANQUIN 
 
 Mohammedans. Soon the towers of the old palace 
 of Man Mandir rose in view near the summit, each 
 crowned with a circular cupola. It is a striking 
 i 
 
i 3 o INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 building of remarkable character in reddish-yellow 
 sand .tone, faced in parts by turquoise blue and 
 yellow tiles, courses of these tiles running across 
 the facade. The angle tower and some of the tile- 
 work at the top had been restored. There was a 
 frieze of geese in yellow on a turquoise-blue ground, 
 the birds in profile, each showing an expanded wing 
 and set close together. The design resembled the 
 carved figures of birds often seen on the Jain temples. 
 The architecture here being Hindu, was much more 
 massive than the Mogul work hitherto seen, and 
 showed much variety and invention in the carved 
 corbels and brackets in the interior. I made a note 
 of a peacock bracket in which the tail is effectively 
 treated, the bird being considerably formalised in 
 adapting it to its architectural purpose. There was 
 another of a fantastic elephant. Elephant heads 
 with their uplifted trunks, by the way, were carved 
 as brackets to support the balconies at the Guest 
 House, where also I noted that the detail of some 
 of the carved work of the door heads at the old 
 palace had been reproduced. The doorways were 
 rather low and small, and the whole building had 
 more the character of a castle than a palace. On 
 the flat table land on the summit of the rock there 
 were several Jain temples, masses of carving within 
 and without. The Sas Bahu is the principal Jain 
 temple, and there is also a Hindu temple on the 
 rock — near the farther end from Man Mandir — the 
 Teli-ka Mandir. This stands in a graveyard, 
 full of carved fragments and upright stones. The 
 elephant bearing the party of British officers passed 
 us as we were exploring the temples. There are 
 
GWALIOR 131 
 
 some ugly barracks, which are very much out of 
 keeping with the historic architecture of the Rock. 
 The old fort has stood many a siege. Caine calls 
 it "the cockpit of Central India," and "it has 
 been stormed or starved into submission a dozen 
 times at least." It seems to have been originally 
 fortified in J73 a.d., and at various periods since 
 to have alternately fallen into the hands of Hindu or 
 Mussulman, as now one and now the other prevailed. 
 Akbar the Great took it in 1556, and we find the East 
 India Company in possession in 1780, who took it 
 from Sindhia and gave it to the Rana of Gohad. 
 Then Sindhia retook it, and so it has remained with 
 the Sindhias (to which family the present Maharajah 
 belongs) practically ever since. The Rock has always 
 been well supplied with water and has many tanks. 
 We had a commanding prospect of the country, 
 stretching in a vast plain for miles around. We could 
 see the Maharajah's palace amidst its parks and 
 gardens — a white building- among the green foliage, 
 and nearer the foot of the Rock the new town of 
 Gwalior, called Lashkar. We descended on the 
 farther (northern) side of the rock by a winding 
 road, and from here we saw some huge carved 
 figures cut in the face of the sandstone cliffs in bold 
 relief. Most of these are said to represent Adinath, 
 the first Jain pontiff, but there is a seated figure of 
 Nemnath, the twenty-second pontiff. Each bear 
 their symbols, that of the first being a bull and of 
 the second a shell. There are life-size as well as 
 small figures cut on the lower parts of the cliff. 
 The effect of these strange carvings is very weird. 
 They have an impersonal and unrelated look, and 
 
i 3 2 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 give one the impression of being- more ancient than 
 they really are ; but they only date from a.d. 1441 
 to 1474. 
 
 We found our carriage waiting for us at the foot 
 of the hill, having driven round the Rock from the 
 old town, and we got back to the Guest House 
 about noon. 
 
 In the late afternoon we drove to the Maharajah's 
 palace, and presenting our cards, were shown over 
 the rooms by a very polite English officer. The 
 building is in a sort of late Italian Renaissance style, 
 all white outside, with a great display of pilasters 
 and columned porticoes. We entered a vast durbar 
 hall in white and gold, with modern French-looking 
 furniture with curly legs upholstered in green. 
 There were many photographs of recent English 
 Governor-Generals on the walls, as well as indifferent 
 full-length, life-sized portraits in oil of the late 
 Maharajah. The best of these was said to have 
 been painted by one Scott — a landscape painter (!). 
 In one of the smaller rooms there was an English 
 water-colour drawing of Sussex Downs by A. F. 
 Grace (whom I remember at Heatherly's in 
 student days), and several photographic official 
 groups of the usual type, in which the Maharajah 
 is seated by the Prince of Wales, surrounded 
 by rows of officials and notabilities, all with 
 " eyes front." We wrote our names in the 
 visitors' book, and then drove through the grounds, 
 which are very extensive. In one part lions are 
 kept — apparently in a most insecure way, as they 
 not unfrequently escape and ravage the country 
 round. In fact, this had quite recently happened, 
 
GWALIOR 133 
 
 and natives had been killed by them. A very 
 taciturn gentleman at the Guest House had been 
 pointed out to us by the more genial of our fellow- 
 countrymen there as the official who had been sent 
 by the Maharajah to fetch the wandering lions back, 
 and he had been over a distance of about three 
 hundred miles before he succeeded in "rounding 
 them up." He did not tell us, however, how it was 
 done, though he had a look as of one who " could a 
 tale unfold " — not to speak of a lion's tail ! When 
 we saw the place where these lions were kept we were 
 not surprised that they should have been able to 
 escape if they had a mind to. We looked down on 
 them as they were gnawing some bones. They 
 were loose in a sort of open court, overgrown with 
 grass, and enclosed within four plastered walls 
 which any cat could have scaled, no palisading 
 or iron railing at the top. There were five lions 
 and one lioness visible. The remains of their 
 repast ol meat was pounced on by kites and 
 crows with much clamour. 
 
 We next saw the Maharajah's elephants, and 
 passed down a long line of them, chained by the 
 fore-legs, down one side of an open courtyard, 
 all eating what looked like the stalks of Indian 
 corn. There were about thirty elephants here. 
 One of them was handsomely painted on the forehead 
 in a similar way to the state elephant we saw at 
 Jaipur, but none of them had quite such big tusks. 
 Returning through the gardens, we passed the older 
 palace ; also a white building, but in the Mogul style, 
 with many domes and minarets, and facing a large 
 tank with marble steps. 
 
i34 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Our party at the Guest House was increased at 
 dinner by two very pleasant American ladies, who, 
 owing to their powers of conversation, caused the 
 very reserved Anglo-Indians to melt a little and show 
 some signs of human interest, especially when one 
 of the ladies related her thrilling experiences during 
 the San Francisco earthquake. 
 
 The next morning we visited the newer city of 
 Gwalior, which we had seen from the fort. The 
 streets were fairly wide, and some had varied and 
 picturesque fronts in plaster-work. We were 
 driven to the oate of a bio- and rather new Hindu 
 temple, spoiled by the insertion of crude pieces of 
 coloured glass, of the commonest European make, 
 in the fan-lig-hts of the doors on each side. A 
 sacred bull of black marble and a snake fetish were 
 the most interesting- things there. 
 
 In the same court was an older temple raised 
 on a flight of steps. To approach this, one's shoes 
 had to be taken off, and from the door only a peep 
 was allowed into the dark interior, which, as far as 
 I could see was painted all over with figures of 
 deities and emblems in a barbaric way in coarse 
 and crude colours. The thing to look at, it appeared, 
 was a portrait of the late Maharajah in his jewels, 
 on what we should call the high altar, which was 
 suddenly illuminated by artificial light by one of 
 the native attendants. 
 
 Zebu cows were wandering freely about in the 
 court of the temple, and here for a wonder no fees 
 were taken. 
 
 We went into the new market, which had been 
 opened by the Prince of Wales on his visit the 
 
IN THE BAZAAR, GWALIOR 
 
GWALIOR 135 
 
 previous year. It was not, however, very busy, 
 and many of the stalls were empty. It seemed of 
 doubtful advantage to the natives, who preferred to 
 do business in the bazaars. There appeared to be 
 a good supply of fresh vegetables, but very few 
 buyers. The most interesting stalls were those of 
 the bead sellers. There were beads of every 
 variety of colour and size. The stalls were about 
 the height of ordinary shop-counters, and on these 
 platforms, which extended without divisions along 
 the centre and sides of the market hall, the native 
 traders squatted with their wares in front of them, 
 women as well as men. Some of them were en- 
 gaged in stringing the beads, and one man was 
 plaiting a cord, the strands of which were fixed to a 
 hook fixed on an upright stick supported on a 
 stand. He used his toes like fingers to hold out 
 and divide the strands as he worked. With the 
 assistance of our bearer we made some pur- 
 chases, and again later in the bazaar, when, as the 
 carriage was stopped, I made a sketch of the scene 
 in front of us, but under difficulties, as we were 
 immediately surrounded on all sides by an eager 
 concourse of swarthy, interested spectators, who 
 refused to budge in spite of the rather mild remon- 
 strances or commands of a native policeman, who, 
 I imagine, used the Hindu equivalent for " Pass 
 along" or " Move on," but they didn't. Under this 
 "crowd of witnesses" I endeavoured to complete 
 my sketch, and then we moved on. 
 
 Extending our drive on the Morar Road, we 
 passed the camp of the Maharajah's soldiers in 
 waiting for the Amir's coming, as after the Agra 
 
1 36 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 reception was over he was to pay a visit to the 
 palace at Gwalior for tiger-shooting. We enjoyed 
 a quiet life at Gwalior, and I was able to make 
 several drawings unhindered by too curious crowds. 
 The Guest House was one of the quietest places 
 imaginable, although visitors came and went and 
 even motor-cars were seen. There was something 
 almost mysterious in the way guests would appear 
 and disappear — at table one day and vanished the 
 next ; covers would be laid too for guests who 
 never appeared. 
 
 Tents which were pitched on the ground outside 
 the Guest House for other unseen visitors would 
 be clean gone as we looked out in the morning. 
 Everything seemed so transitory ; even a native 
 boy, when I wanted to make a drawing of him, 
 was nowhere to be found, and I had to make the 
 best of it with an unwilling and quite inferior sub- 
 stitute, who had no idea of keeping still, and even 
 ended the seance by squatting on the ground with 
 his back to one ! 
 
 It struck me that the natives do not like being 
 drawn or painted, as a rule, to judge by the various 
 attempts one made to secure models. The one 
 wanted always disappeared when the time came, 
 and another, but not a better and without the same 
 characteristics, offered. 
 
 The little palm squirrels were very numerous 
 here, and would scamper about the terraces and 
 balconies of the Guest House, and even chase each 
 other into our rooms, or come up for the crumbs 
 we scattered, sitting up on their haunches to nibble 
 at them, held in their fore-paws in true squirrel 
 
GWALIOR 
 
 137 
 
 fashion. Equally familiar were the sparrows which 
 flew in and out, unmolested and fearless, even 
 perching sometimes on the breakfast table. The 
 crows too would congregate on the balcony rails if 
 
 CALLERS AT THE GUEST HOUSE, GWALIOR 
 
 any feeding was going on, frequently joining us at 
 afternoon tea, at a respectful distance, though 
 within short range of the scattered crumbs. 
 
 We witnessed several very lovely sunsets over 
 the Rock of Gwalior, a type of frequent occurrence 
 beino- an arrangement of lonp-, low stratus clouds, 
 brilliantly illuminated on their under edges as 
 the sun sank below the horizon, the light deep- 
 
i 3 8 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 ening from orange into crimson. Another type 
 consisted of golden fleeces of high cirrus clouds, 
 rippling out over spaces of turquoise. 
 
 We paid another visit to the old town of Gwalior 
 and climbed the hill as far as the third gate, where 
 I made a sketch showing the towers of the Man 
 Mandir Palace through the arch. 
 
 From a terrace extending along the hill near this 
 gate there is a fine panoramic view, the old towm 
 lying below, partly ruined and deserted, a mass of 
 crumbling walls and complicated roof plans mingled 
 with trees and gardens. 
 
 The first gate at the foot of the hill, where is the 
 guard-house, is interesting - as showing; the inlaid 
 enamelled tile-work which decorates it partially. 
 Deep turquoise is the prevailing colour, and it is 
 used for the field or background of the designs, and 
 is inlaid in pieces cut to fit the interstices of the 
 pattern in the yellow sandstone. In a frieze of 
 geese in close formal procession, the birds were cut in 
 sunk relief, and the spaces between were filled with 
 turquoise pieces. The tile decoration on the Man 
 Mandir Palace has been done in the same way, 
 yellow and green tiles being also used. 
 
 We drove through the bazaar of the old town, a 
 queer, half-ruined, and ragged place, but exceedingly 
 picturesque, the natives squatting on their stalls, 
 presiding over curious preparations of food and 
 other wares, with chatting, many-coloured groups 
 crowding around. Some of the people would look 
 curiously at us, some would salaam, some were 
 indifferent, others were derisive or sullen. 
 
 There was rather an important-looking mosque 
 
APPROACH TO THE PALACE OF MAN MANDIR, GWALIOR 
 
GWALIOR 139 
 
 with minarets in the town, but many of the houses 
 were roofless and deserted. 
 
 In crossing" the bridge over the river we noted 
 the people washing clothes, and a pretty pattern of 
 colour was formed when the stuffs were spread out 
 over the sandbanks to dry. Here, in central 
 India, we were able to see more of the everyday 
 life of the people, and had more opportunities of 
 quiet observation of country life than usual. The 
 peasants did not seem to have the curiosity of the 
 natives in the towns, when one sat down to make 
 a drawing, but they went on their way, bearing 
 their burdens, or driving ox-carts, or herds of 
 goats, or buffalo cows, or asses. 
 
 It was quite a change to get a grey cloudy effect 
 which occurred one morning when I had found an 
 interesting subject by the river-side. On the way 
 thither we passed a village burning-place, strewn 
 with heaps of ashes where the dead had been 
 burned. The river had shrunk to a small, shallow 
 stream, and at the spot where I sat was crossed by 
 stepping-stones, over which groups of natives con- 
 stantly passed to and fro. Cattle and ox-carts 
 splashed through a shallow ford at intervals, and 
 higher up natives bathed their brown bodies in the 
 water. We were on the outskirts of the old town 
 of Gwalior, and could see above on the rock the 
 dark shapes of the Jain temples looming up 
 against the sky, while around us were domes of 
 cenotaphs, fragments of tombs, and broken walls, 
 overshadowed by groups of fine banyan trees and 
 mangoes. At an old draw-well near by groups of 
 native women were continually coining and going, 
 
140 IXDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 bearing their water-jars on their heads, their 
 draperies forming delightful schemes of colour. 
 
 A dark thin Hindu in a white turban and waist- 
 cloth was ploughing up his small patch of land near 
 the river for potatoes, which members of his family- 
 working with him were preparing to sow. There 
 were several sons — youths — two women, and some 
 small children, all working on the land. 
 
 I made a note of the plough, a very primitive 
 implement, having a single shaft fixed at a right 
 angle to the share, with a cross-handle at the top. 
 This the ploughman held with one hand — his left 
 —guiding the plough, while with his right he drove 
 a small pair of zebus under a yoke, who dragged it 
 along. The share was a wedge-shaped piece of 
 wood, tipped with iron at the point and along its 
 edge. 
 
 Moonsawmy talked to the man while I made my 
 notes, and he told me afterwards that the plough- 
 man never managed to earn as much as 200 rupees 
 in the year, though he and his family — I suppose 
 about ten or a dozen all told — were constantly at 
 work. His patch of land being near the river, one 
 would have thought favourable for raising crops; but 
 it appeared the river not infrequently was com- 
 pletely dry, and they were hard put to it for water 
 for the soil. The income of the whole family 
 worked out at about thirteen pounds a year at the 
 most, which, taking into consideration that it had to 
 be the support of about a dozen people, seemed 
 narrow enough, and one could easily understand 
 that the slightest failure of the crops would mean 
 something- like famine. 
 
GWALIOR 141 
 
 This state of things bears out the estimates of 
 the average income of the Indian ryot, calculated 
 by the late William Digby, CLE., after long 
 residence and experience in India, the results 
 of whose study of the question are given in detail, 
 from undisputed authorities, in his striking work, 
 " Prosperous British India," in which is accumulated 
 an appalling mass of evidence, all pointing to the 
 conclusion that for famine should very largely be 
 read poverty, which is also the root cause of 
 bubonic plague. The railways, of course, might 
 convey corn to the starving districts, but where the 
 people have no money to pay for it they must 
 starve all the same, Government relief-works 
 being the only alternative ; but this sort of relief 
 must often be too late for poor creatures reduced 
 by hunger and too weak to work. 
 
 The ordinary unprejudiced observer is naturally 
 inclined to ask, Why this desperate poverty in 
 an industrious population, supposed to be under 
 beneficent British rule and administration ? The 
 answer must be sought in the fact that thirty millions 
 and upwards are annually extracted from the 
 country without any equivalent return, and this 
 must necessarily mean a heavy burden of taxa- 
 tion on the chief sources of wealth, land and 
 labour. 
 
 One of the greatest principles of our Constitution 
 of which our public men are never tired of boasting 
 is, " No taxation without representation," or, " Taxa- 
 tion and representation must go hand in hand." 
 This principle is, however, entirely ignored in 
 India, where British rule is as autocratic as that of 
 
1 42 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Russia. Is it surprising in these circumstances 
 that there should be " unrest " ? 
 
 The educated Hindu or Mohammedan — the 
 many who come to England and are trained in 
 English Universities, or read for the Bar, or study 
 for their degrees in medicine, feel that there is no 
 part or lot for them in the administration of the 
 affairs of their own country except in a very 
 subordinate way. I understand that the highest 
 Government post a native can attain to is the 
 office of assistant-commissioner. 
 
 Time was when, after the great upheaval of the 
 Mutiny — which was really an attempt to regain 
 possession of the reins of government by the native 
 princes of Oude, the principle of native repre- 
 sentation under British administration was advo- 
 cated by leading English politicians. Nothing, 
 however, came of it, and the policy of the India 
 Office has remained unchanged through all the 
 changes of party government, there being no 
 difference in this matter between Liberals and 
 Conservatives. A Liberal like Mr John Morley, 
 when in office as Indian Secretary, promptly orders 
 the arrest and deportation without trial of Indian 
 agitators under an old law of the East India 
 Company which has never been ratified by the 
 English Parliament. 
 
 Mr Laipat Rai, however, appears to be a self- 
 sacrificing and devoted advocate of the cause of his 
 people, and as editor certainly cannot have written 
 so strongly against the English Government as Mr 
 H. M. Hyndman, who has for years past denounced 
 the conduct of the India Office, while challenging 
 
GWALIOR 143 
 
 attention to and redress of the system under which 
 the people of India are impoverished. 
 
 The attenuated ploughman who has been the 
 occasion of these remarks was a typical figure. 
 Looking on such figures, able only to secure a 
 bare subsistence, so common throughout India, one 
 cannot but feel that all the magnificence and luxury 
 of the Maharajahs, as well as the heavy burden of 
 the cost of the British Government, is maintained by 
 the sweat of the brows and the ceaseless toil of such 
 as these. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 DELHI 
 
 AFTER a stay of about a week at the Guest House 
 at Gwalior we took the road again, or rather the 
 railroad, Delhi being the next place on our itinerary. 
 We thought, however, to break the journey for a 
 few hours at Aora, and oret a view of the entry of 
 the Amir, which was fixed for the 9th of January. 
 
 It was a lowering, cloudy morning when we left 
 our quarters and made for the railway station, 
 where we had a long wait in the darkness. An 
 enormous throng of natives filled the platform, 
 squatting on the ground or standing about in 
 groups, talking or sleeping" under covers which hid 
 them from head to foot. Most were closely 
 wrapped up about the shoulders, cloths being 
 wound over the turban, even so that the)- had 
 generally a top-heavy look with bare legs. Their 
 wraps were only of cotton though, as a rule, and did 
 not seem adequate against the chill of the morning. 
 One little swarthy man was busy writing, making 
 entries on sheets of paper or perhaps bills of lading. 
 He squatted on the platform against one of the 
 piers of the arcade, writing by the aid of a lantern's 
 light. I noticed only one European besides our- 
 selves in the throng, and he appeared to be an 
 English official and wore a pith helmet. 
 
DELHI 145 
 
 At last up came the train from Jhansi, and we 
 got in, a slumbering English officer occupying one 
 of the berths. The sky, which was the only gloomy 
 and threatening one we had experienced in India, 
 and certainly looked leaden and hopeless enough, 
 soon turned to rain, and under such an aspect the 
 country looked desolate in the extreme. The 
 tawny earth and fuzzy, dry grass, sparse trees of 
 prickly acacia and scrub bushes, the broken hillocks 
 and mounds of clay, looked more fruitless and 
 forlorn under the steady, soaking rain ; groups of 
 poor country folk in their thin cotton clothing- 
 huddled together, waiting at the stations we passed, 
 or could be seen splashing through the muddy 
 pools to catch the train. 
 
 Nearing Agra, we saw heavy artillery trains with 
 field guns trailing along the wet roads. Troops 
 had been pouring into Agra for some time, and 
 while at Gwalior a native regiment of cavalry 
 (lancers) rode by the Guest House, preceded by 
 their baa-crage on mules and camels. 
 
 At Agra Road Station the rain was pouring in 
 torrents. There is an immense, long, exposed 
 platform, along which we made our way to cover 
 under the station shed, which was already crammed 
 with people, mostly English and American visitors, 
 army officers, and officials. 
 
 The weather being quite hopeless, we gave up 
 the idea of seeing anything of the procession, which 
 of course was a military one, and then finding there 
 was a dining-car in waiting, we had a scam- 
 per through the rain again down the platform to 
 reach it. 
 
146 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 After tiffin we were just in time to catch a train 
 on to Delhi — in fact it had actually started, but the 
 courteous station-master sent an official to stop it 
 
 A DASH FOR THE DINING-CAR AT AGRA ROAD 
 
 for us, and to see us safely in with our baggage. 
 It was now nearly noon, but our train, a slow 
 passenger one, was not due at Delhi until 5.30. 
 The rain continued steadily, and damp groups of 
 natives were gathered at the different stopping 
 
DELHI 147 
 
 stations in various stages of discomfort. They did 
 not, however, appear to mind the wet so much as 
 one would have expected, but swathed themselves 
 in all sorts of curious wraps up to the eyes, leaving 
 the legs and feet bare, and some even squatted on 
 the wet ground. 
 
 The country was again a plain for the most part, 
 and extensively cultivated under irrigation, several 
 irrigation canals being crossed by the railway. 
 Green crops of young corn seemed almost hidden 
 by charlock, the yellow fields having almost the 
 effect of our buttercup meadows in May. Flocks 
 of black and white cranes were seen, as well as a 
 large, blue, grey-plumaged kind, which are usually 
 seen in pairs in the green corn. Three superior- 
 caste Hindus got into our compartment and 
 occupied the cross-bench at one end. One had a 
 bad cough, but they kept their windows open and 
 did not seem to mind draughts. Coughs and 
 throat troubles seemed, indeed, too common in 
 India, and we often heard distressing coughs in the 
 hotels at night. 
 
 The sky towards evening began to clear in the 
 west, the whole solid field of rain cloud gradually 
 lilting like a curtain, and the sun shining out while 
 the rain continued, a brilliant rainbow appeared as 
 if painted on the black wall of cloud to the eastward. 
 
 The line passes through a part of old Delhi, a 
 vast region of broken tombs and ruined walls lying 
 outside the walls of the present city,and afar off we 
 could see the domes and minarets of the Great 
 Jama Musjid Mosque. 
 
 We got in in good time, and collecting our heavy 
 
148 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 baggage sent on from Gwalior, drove to Maiden's 
 Hotel, through streets dark with rain and standing 
 in pools of water, a stormy orange sunset casting a 
 warm glow over everything. The hotel was on 
 the usual Indian plan, with a centre and two arcaded 
 wines enclosing a court, alone which a series of 
 ground-floor, bungalow-like bed- and bath-rooms 
 extended, chilly enough at this time of year in the 
 mornings and evenings, especially in wet weather. 
 The hotel itself was under English management, 
 and there were large open fires in the dining-room 
 and salon, which looked comfortable, and the 
 cookery was superior to most of the others we had 
 experienced. Letters from England awaited us, 
 and added to our satisfaction. No doubt the mails 
 are delivered with wonderful regularity, and so 
 lone as the traveller can arrange his tour in order 
 that his letters shall meet him at certain places, 
 and does not leave before the mail arrives, no 
 complications occur. It is only when letters follow 
 one about instead of preceding one that delay and 
 difficulties occur. 
 
 The next morning (January 10) was grey, chill, 
 and damp, when we started after breakfast to see 
 Delhi. The hotels and the British residential quarter 
 lie quite outside the native town, as is usually the case, 
 amid spacious, park-like grounds, here pleasantly 
 undulating, and varied with gardens and fine groups 
 of trees. The town is walled, and has a broad dry 
 ditch as a farther defence. We drove through the 
 famous Kashmir Gate, renowned for the British 
 assault at the time of the Mutiny, which remains in 
 the battered condition in which it was left after the 
 
DELHI 149 
 
 siege, with great shot-holes in its masonry, as well 
 as in the walls each side. A tablet records the 
 circumstances of the siege, and the names of the 
 officers and soldiers who distinguished themselves 
 at that terrific time. 
 
 The gate has two ogee-pointed arches, enclosed 
 in rectangular mouldings in the usual Mogul fashion. 
 As one enters the city, inscribed tablets recording 
 incidents of the siege are numerous, and the British 
 authorities have certainly been most careful to pre- 
 serve the memory of their side of the fight along 
 with the names of their military heroes, and every 
 noteworthy spot in the struggle is commemorated 
 in this way. In addition to such incidental monu- 
 ments there is the Mutiny Memorial, an important 
 red-sandstone erection (1 10 feet high) outside the 
 gates, upon a rising ground, and so placed that a 
 complete view can be obtained from its summit of 
 the lines of the sieo-e. 
 
 At the fort, which was formerly the Imperial 
 Palace of the Moguls (built in a.d. 162S-58 by 
 Shah Jehan), it is distressing to see the ruthless 
 destruction of superb buildings for which the British 
 have been responsible, and the barbarous way in 
 which hideous barrack structures have been sub- 
 stituted. The fort, or palace, is entered through 
 a noble, deep-red sandstone gate. The Lahore, or, 
 as it is now called, the Victoria Gate, and the fine 
 court, is marred by these ugly modern military 
 barracks for which so much beauty was sacrificed. 
 We were shown two splendid halls, the Diwan- 
 i-am, or public hall of audience, and the Diwan-i- 
 khas, or private hall of audience. This is of white 
 
i 5 o INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 marble with beautiful inlays of precious stones, with 
 a richly decorated ceiling in colour and gold. A 
 marble pedestal is pointed out as the place 
 whereon the wonderful peacock throne stood. 
 This must indeed have been gorgeous, the seat 
 between two peacocks with spread tails, and these 
 encrusted with sapphires, diamonds, rubies, and 
 emeralds, representing the natural colours of the 
 plumage, a true emblem of oriental magnificence. 
 Over the arches of the arcade in this hall is a 
 Persian inscription in raised and gilt characters, 
 which reads, " If there is a paradise on earth, it is this, 
 it is this, it is this." This costly " paradise,"' again, 
 was built by the builder of the Taj Mahal, Shah 
 Jehan, who seems to have outshone all the Mogul 
 emperors by the splendour of his buildings. Of 
 course there are no diamonds, or rubies, or emeralds 
 left, and even the small stones used in the decorative 
 floral inlays have in many cases been picked out. It 
 is said that Lord Curzon employed Florentine work- 
 men to replace some of this work at his own expense. 
 
 The decoration of the walls and ceiling's in the 
 zenana rooms, consisting of painted and gilded 
 arabesques, was very lovely, and the marble Akab 
 Baths exquisite. The river (Jumna) formerly Mowed 
 up to the walls of the palace on that side, and from 
 a beautiful minaret we could see the river beyond a 
 belt of green foliage, and get a fine perspective 
 view up and down of the palace wall and buildings. 
 
 Near by, on the other side of the court, is the 
 Rung Mahal, which is distinguished by particularly 
 fine pierced screen-work. The vaulted rooms 
 connected with this building were till recently 
 
DELHI 151 
 
 used as officers' mess-rooms, when all their beautiful 
 decoration were obliterated with whitewash. 
 
 Opposite to the Akab Baths is the Moti Musjid, 
 called the Pearl Mosque, a most exquisite little 
 building- of white marble, a cluster of three domes 
 and many slender pinnacles terminated by lotus 
 flowers. It has many-cusped arches of Saracenic 
 character, and a fine bronze door. 
 
 It is sad to think that these lovely buildings are 
 after all only remnants of what were once on this 
 spot when this Imperial Palace was complete in all 
 its splendour. The Burj-i-Shameli, the great marble 
 bath-room ; the Metiaz-Mehal, a huge quadrangle of 
 palaces enclosing a garden 300 feet square ; the 
 Nobatkhama or music gate, the Golden Mosque, 
 the hareem courts, and fifty other lovely pavilions, 
 fountains, and gardens — think of it ! The late W.S. 
 Caine, writing in his " Picturesque India," adds the 
 following passage : " These and other glories of the 
 palace have all been swept away by successive 
 barbarians. Nadir Shah, Ahmed Khan, and the 
 Maratha chiefs were content to strip the buildings 
 of their precious metals and jewelled thrones : to 
 the government of the Empress of India was left 
 the last dregs of vandalism, which, after the 
 Mutiny, pulled down these perfect monuments of 
 Mughal art, to make room for the ugliest brick 
 buildings from Simla to Ceylon." 
 
 The Jama Musjid at Delhi is on a splendid 
 scale, a mosque of red sandstone inlaid with white 
 marble. There are four great gateways, approached 
 by long flights of steps, through which the great 
 arcaded square court, in which the mosque stands, 
 
152 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 is entered. Reputed relics of Buddha are shown 
 to visitors at a shrine at one corner of the court. 
 On the eastern side the mosque faces an open 
 plain from which a large slice of the native city, 
 which once surrounded the mosque, had been cleared 
 by the Government. This gives a clear view of 
 the noble building on this side, though we rather 
 lose the distinctive character of the place, and 
 one would have thought the mosque, standing so 
 high as it does, would have easily dominated the 
 native houses. In fact, if it had been designed for 
 a site on an open plain, there would have been no 
 necessity to raise it on such a lofty platform. 
 Modern improvers are apt to forget the logic of art. 
 
 We went up a side street in the native town on 
 the other side of the mosque to see the Jain 
 temple, which is an interesting and richly decorated 
 small building in the Mogul style of architecture, 
 approached by a doorway in the street and reached 
 by a flight of steps. It is extremely beautiful in 
 detail. In the curious street there were many 
 interesting Mogul doorways. We stopped at a 
 stall to buy some specimens of the glass and 
 lacquered bracelets commonly worn by the native 
 women which only cost a few annas. 
 
 The Chandni Chowk (or silver street) is the 
 main business street or bazaar of Delhi. It is very 
 wide, and has a sort of long island down the middle 
 planted with trees. This was said to have been 
 originally an aqueduct. It runs east and west, and 
 we saw a striking effect one evening — the glowing- 
 sunset behind the dark masses of the trees, the end 
 of the vista lost in mysterious gloom ; twinkling 
 
DELHI 153 
 
 lights, here and there, about the white awnings of 
 the stalls under the trees ; white turbaned figures of 
 natives moving noiselessly up and down, ox- carts 
 and pony tongas, wandering sacred zebus, and all the 
 mixed and varied character of an Indian bazaar 
 forming a wonderful and picturesque ensemble. 
 
 Individualistic commercial competition is well 
 illustrated in the Chandni Chowk. The traveller 
 is besieged by touts thrusting their cards into his 
 hand, or throwing them into his carriage, or 
 surrounding it with the most importunate solicita- 
 tions to see their shops. 
 
 We visited an ivory carver's workshop in a street 
 leading out of the Chowk. My impression was 
 about this, as in regard to other native handicrafts, 
 that it was now a craft as distinct from an art. 
 We saw the carvers at work, quite a number. It 
 was a species of factory. There were draughtsmen 
 and designers, and miniature painters and inlayers, 
 quite distinct from the carvers. The former draw 
 the patterns on the ivory with a pencil. There 
 were some young boys learning to draw from the 
 craft ; one was drawing a bird on a slate. The skill 
 of the ivory-carvers was very wonderful : they could 
 carve a figure inside an open scroll-work and leave 
 it distinct, and there were feats of this kind of which 
 they seemed to be most proud ; but these craftsmen 
 seemed to work almost mechanically, no doubt 
 entirely to order, and without any initiative of their 
 own in the way of design. They sat cross-legged 
 on the floor, and more in one room than our factory 
 inspectors would probably approve. The works 
 here were mostly produced for ready sale to the 
 
i54 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 tourist. Elephants and paper knives were — I was 
 going to say, walking hand in hand — all over the 
 shop, and small models of the Taj Mahal ran them 
 close, models of native ox-carts, tongas, and palkis, 
 the native ploughman and his yoke of oxen, and 
 such-like images of familar things of Indian life ; 
 elaborate chess-men, and inlaid caskets with little 
 miniatures of the Taj Mahal and the Jama Musjid 
 inserted, in fact all sorts of ivory toys were there, 
 consciously prepared for the Western eye, and too 
 often the Western want of taste. A loquacious 
 Parsee-looking proprietor or manager showed us 
 over this establishment. He had the air of a 
 general director of the works, etc. While not at all 
 pressing, he took care to show all his attractive 
 things, beginning at the most elaborate and costlv 
 articles, and skilfully grading downwards, until in 
 price they were within measurable distance of the 
 visitor's purse. 
 
 My wife found that native home-spun linen 
 and silks for embroidery were difficult to find in 
 the Chandni Chowk, where there were plenty of 
 European goods. 
 
 On January iith there was a slight frost. The 
 early morning was quite misty, too, but the sun 
 came out later, and there was a strong cold wind 
 from the east in spite of the clear, bright, blue sky 
 and the brilliant sunshine. It suited Delhi far 
 better than the grey sky under which we had seen 
 it the first morning of our visit, and was favourable 
 lor our excursion to the Kutab Minar, eleven miles 
 out. Driving through the Delhi and Kashmir Gates 
 again, and along the road past the jama Musjid, 
 
DELHI 155 
 
 and out aeain at a farther ^ate to the south-east, 
 we traversed the region known as Old Delhi, a 
 wonderful tract of ruined cities, shattered buildings, 
 mingled with noble tombs, mosques, and minarets, 
 extending for many miles outside the present city. 
 I )omes of tombs were seen on all sides, and broken 
 walls, and the ground was strewn with bricks and 
 stones. Trees (acacias and tamarinds mostly) 
 bordered the road. Our native coachman (a good 
 guide) spoke of No. 8 city, and pointed out its 
 ruined gate, under which we passed. Farther on 
 we took a branch road and stopped before the noble 
 gate of the ancient city of Indrapat with its strong 
 walls and bastions. Leaving our carriage, we 
 passed through the gate and on past a squalid 
 group of wretched huts, where poverty-stricken 
 natives huddled together about their tumble-down 
 dwellings, and where native children were inclined 
 to be rude. Farther along the broken path we 
 reached a spacious octagonal mosque of red 
 sandstone on a marble platform. This was the 
 mosque of Shir Shah (a.d. 1 541 ). The contrast 
 between the dignity of this building and the 
 squalor of the village was striking and saddening. 
 
 Resuming our road, we next reached the splendid 
 tomb of Humayun (built by Akbar the Great about 
 1560 a.d., in memory of his father the Emperor 
 Humayun). An important gateway led into a 
 garden with long tanks and flagged pathways, 
 bordered by formal green hedges, which led up 
 to a spacious platform upon which the noble tomb 
 was built. In the central chamber under the tomb 
 the actual tombstone was screened by pierced 
 
i 5 6 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 marble. There was also a smaller chamber of 
 tombs, each side the central one. The building- 
 was of red sandstone, inlaid with white marble with 
 a central dome and four minarets. It seemed to 
 be a prototype of the great Akbar's own tomb we 
 had seen at Sikandra. 
 
 Then on again we went, making another short 
 detour from the main road to the cemetery of 
 Nizam-ud-din. Entering through the gateway, we 
 came upon a deep tank, surrounded with buildings. 
 On the flattened dome of one — the Nizam's well- 
 house — sat a group of brown-skinned youths, ready 
 to dive into the water, a dive of about seventy feet, 
 for backsheesh, and the entertainment of the visitor. 
 A passage from this led into a marble court, in 
 the centre of which was the white, marble-domed 
 tomb of the Nizam, brilliantly decorated with 
 arabesques in colour. It reminded one of the 
 shrine of the Kwaja in the Dargarh at Ajmir. 
 There were also other tombs in the court, one to 
 the poet Khusru, whose songs are said to be still 
 popular in India. An interesting one is that of 
 Jahanara Begum, daughter of the Emperor Shah 
 Jehan, on which is an inscription to the effect that 
 she begs that nothing but grass may cover her. 
 Certainly her wishes are fulfilled, as the grass grows 
 freely in the marble-sided tomb which has no cover. 
 Up some steps was the modern tomb of Mirza 
 (ahangir, but a beautiful marble one. 
 
 The carving in marble and ornaments of all these 
 tombs were exceedingly delicate and beautiful, and 
 would compare well with the work on the Taj Mahal. 
 
 The visitor on leaving is embarrassed by the 
 
DELHI 
 
 5/ 
 
 number of claimants of fees. There seemed to be 
 a different custode for every tomb in the place, and 
 the crowd of hangers-on, hungry for backsheesh, 
 rather spoils the pleasure which the sight of so 
 much beautiful work gives. 
 
 Returning to the road again and continuing our 
 drive, it was not long before we descried the 
 great Kutab Minar rising up above the trees 
 in front of us. We had indeed caught a glimpse 
 of it miles away, when the tower was almost lost 
 in the haze. There is a good little bungalow close 
 by where the traveller can get tiffin, or put up for 
 the night if so minded. 
 
 The Minar, tapering upwards to an astonishing- 
 height (238 feet), piercing the clear blue sky, is 
 of red sandstone with a white marble top story. 
 There are five stories, and the summit was formerly 
 crowned by a small cupola and open arcade, which 
 was destroyed by a storm, and a model of it has 
 been placed near by. Successive bands of small 
 carving are carried across the deep flutings, both 
 semicircular and rectangular alternately on the 
 lower storey, semicircular in the second, rectangular 
 in the third, a plain cylinder forming the fourth, 
 while the fifth and last is partly fluted and partly 
 plain. These bands are composed of texts from 
 the Koran, the Arabic characters having a rich 
 ornamental effect, the carving being wonderfully 
 sharp and unimpaired, although it dates from the 
 twelfth and the latter part of the thirteenth 
 century (a.d. 1210-20), having been built as a tower 
 of Victory, commenced by Kutab-ud-din, and com- 
 pleted by his successor, Altamsh. 
 
158 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 The tower was built in the centre of the old 
 Hindu fortress of Lalkot (a.d. 1060). At its foot 
 are various ruins, the most extensive being- 
 those of a fine Mohammedan mosque, constructed 
 out of the materials of, and incorporated with an 
 ancient Hindu temple, the original columns of the 
 latter remaining to form the colonnade of the court. 
 
 The images of the Hindu gods have been mostly 
 defaced when they occurred in the carving. 
 
 There is a fine Mogul arch of red sandstone, 
 similar in treatment and style to " the mosque of 
 two and a half days " at Ajmir. In front of this, in 
 the centre of the court, stands a remarkable pillar 
 of solid wrought iron, supposed to date from a.d. 
 300 to 400. It is dedicated to Vishnu, and there 
 are lines in Sanscrit inscribed around it. The 
 wonder is that such a massive thing in iron could 
 have been forged at that early period. 
 
 Returning to Delhi by a different road we passed 
 another important-looking tomb, also near the out- 
 skirts of the present city, the ruins of the Observa- 
 tories built by different rajahs in the eighteenth 
 century, which impress one as weighty evidences 
 of the philosophical knowledge and culture of these 
 native princes. A moon observatory was pointed 
 out to us, and a vast circular building. The groups 
 of ruined buildings hereabout recalled to us the 
 Roman Campagna and its fragments. 
 
 Our coachman (who was perhaps more careful 
 as a guide than as a Jehu) collided rather violently 
 with a tonga just outside the city, and the con- 
 sequences might have been serious, but the wheels 
 were the chief sufferers, and the tonga must have 
 
DELHI 
 
 i59 
 
 got the worst of the jolt, one of the native 
 passengers being thrown out. No bones were 
 broken, and the incident did not seem to be 
 
 DELHI DRIVING. WANTED — A RULE OF THE ROAD 
 
 regarded as at all an unusual occurrence. There 
 seems no rule of the road in India, and so risks are 
 constantly run. In the crowded streets the drivers 
 rely on the power of their lungs to shout out 
 warnings of their approach, and it is a marvel 
 people escape being run over, and that collisions 
 are not more frequent and worse than they are. 
 At the hotel, where the custom of small, separate, 
 
160 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 circular dining-tables obtained, we happened to 
 meet a very agreeable Anglo-American family from 
 Ceylon, who were travelling in India, and were 
 returning to their home at Colombo, before visiting 
 Japan and Europe. We discovered we had several 
 friends in common, and promised to visit them when 
 we came to Ceylon. 
 
 I got a coloured drawing of the Jama Musjid from 
 the plain before mentioned, where a few trees 
 afforded a little shade, the sun being very strong, 
 although a cool wind was still blowing- from the 
 east. The light was particularly clear and the 
 shadows sharp, so that the architecture looked re- 
 markably distinct, the effect being almost hard. 
 
 We had a stroll in the park-like grounds near 
 the Club. There was an old and much overgrown 
 Mogul archway here, which had been considerably 
 battered in the siege. There were fine cypresses and 
 other trees, and among them little flights of green 
 parroquets flew with their shrill scream — their 
 flight and their notes reminding one of our swifts. 
 Toucans were also to be seen, and of course the 
 palm squirrels. We watched a whole colony of 
 them sleeping in the hollow of a fine old banyan 
 tree. 
 
. 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 
 
 \A/E left Delhi by a night train— the Punjab 
 * * Mail — for Amritzar, but we had a long 
 wait at the station, as the train was two hours late. 
 The station was thronged with natives bound for 
 some religious festival connected with the approach- 
 ing eclipse of the sun. There was a seething mass 
 of dark humanity at the entrance, through which we 
 had almost to fight our way to the platform. 
 
 Our route was by way of Umballa, which we 
 reached in the early morning. The country was 
 wrapped in a thick white mist before the sun 
 rose, when it gradually cleared. Beyond Umballa 
 the country was very Mat, the dry lands varied with 
 green crops and yellow with charlock, as before, 
 and dotted with acacia trees. Occasionally we 
 crossed wide rivers, or river beds, and the usual 
 flocks of white cranes and brown kites were seen. 
 Jullumpore was another junction where our train 
 stopped. It looked an interesting place from the 
 railway, a walled town with towers and ancient 
 mosques. After leaving Pillour (the refreshment 
 station) a very broad river was crossed, and on the 
 wide sands of the dry part of its bed, almost like a 
 desert, we saw a train of thirty camels moving 
 slowly in single file. 
 
l62 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 We did not reach Amritzar until about i p.m., 
 more than three hours after time ! On emerging 
 from the station, despite our bearer, we were nearly- 
 torn to pieces by hotel touts. 
 
 The Alexandra hotel had been named to us and 
 
 SHE WON'T BE HAPPY TILL SHE GETS EVERYTHING PACKED UP 
 
 we asked for its representative, but it appeared there 
 was no such hotel at Amritzar. Each rival tout 
 clamoured for our custom, declaring that the hotel 
 he represented was the true and only successor to 
 the mythical Alexandra* One went so far as to 
 
 * We learned afterwards that it was the custom to change the names of 
 hotels every six months or so. 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 
 
 16 
 
 say he had received a post-card from us, but when 
 asked to produce it only showed a letter from 
 some one else ! Finally we got into a carriage, 
 
 DEMON HOTEL TOUTS AT AMRITZAR FIGHTING FOR THEIR PREY 
 
 which was immediately stormed by the irrepres- 
 sible touts, one seating himself on the box, one on 
 the step each side, and I don't know how many 
 hanging on behind. Not liking the look of the first 
 hotel they took us to, we tried a second and decided 
 to put up there, and so gradually shook off the touts. 
 There was more of an Eastern character about our 
 
1 64 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 quarters here than we had hitherto experienced. 
 The hotel was quite an Oriental serai in an Eastern 
 garden, our rooms beino- in a sort of Indian villa, 
 opening' on to a terrace with steps down into the 
 garden, with its narrow straight paths between 
 fruit trees, and our room was rather like a small 
 temple or chapel with recessed walls and ogee 
 arched doorways, a raftered ceiling, and clerestory 
 windows. Built for coolness, no doubt, we now- 
 found it positively cold in the mornings and evenings, 
 and although there was a fireplace the lighting of 
 a wood fire made matters worse, for we were nearly 
 smoked out. 
 
 There were several English or Anglo-English at 
 table preserving their characteristic frigidity in the 
 presence of strangers^ A gentleman from Man- 
 chester was the only one who showed a friendly 
 disposition and who had any conversation. 
 
 Driving through the city we had recourse to 
 smelling-bottles, as owing to the open drains each 
 side the streets the odours which saluted our nostrils 
 were rather trying. I had noticed these open 
 gulleys at Delhi and in the native quarters in other 
 towns. They run close in front of the houses and 
 open shops of the bazaars, and are crossed by slabs 
 of stone placed across them at intervals to give 
 access to the houses, and as all sorts of refuse finds 
 its way into them it is not surprising they should be 
 offensive sometimes, though it had not been nearly 
 so noticeable elsewhere. Amritzar is said to have 
 the benefit of the advice of an English sanitary 
 engineer. 
 
 The street did not strike us as so varied and 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 165 
 
 interestine as other cities we had seen, and the 
 house fronts seemed plainer and more modern, as 
 a rule, though the streets were narrow enough. 
 
 From a sort of terrace we got our first view of 
 the Golden Temple, which is built in the centre of 
 
 THROUGH AMRITZAR — SIT TIGHT AND HOLD A SMELLING BOTTLE 
 
 the large tank or lake in the centre of the city. A 
 broad paved causeway connects with the paved 
 walk along- two sides of the lake. After the magnifi- 
 cent and beautifully proportioned Mogul architec- 
 ture of Agra and Delhi, the Golden Temple, 
 built at the beginning of the nineteenth century 
 is rather disappointing, despite its gilded domes, 
 the building looking rather squat, though the gold 
 reflected in the rippling water has a charming effect. 
 The gilded dome of the Atal tower also shows over 
 
1 66 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 thebuildings behind the templeseen from the terrace. 
 Leaving our carriage at this spot we were sur- 
 rounded and eyed by a curious crowd. Rival 
 guides apparently contended for us, and there was 
 a sudden quarrel, ending in a free fight, between 
 two of them, the end of which we did not remain 
 to see. The temple and its precincts is held most 
 sacred by the Sikhs, Amritzar being their religious 
 centre, the place is most jealously watched. It 
 seemed impossible to get away from the crowd, 
 who appeared to be none too friendly to strangers, 
 and sketching was out of the question without a 
 bodyguard. 
 
 We had a very courteous and kind reception from 
 Dr Dinghra, three of whose sons we had known in 
 London. One son and his wife were staying with 
 him, and we spent a pleasant hour under his 
 hospitable roof, and he presented us with handsome 
 saddle bags, made of the local carpet, on leaving. 
 He also introduced us to one of the leading citizens, 
 a magistrate, who had an extensive pile carpet 
 manufactory, and he showed us over the works. 
 These were long sheds, having round arched 
 arcades opening on to a court, and in these were a 
 series of high-warp hand-looms with rows of shuttles 
 filled with the different coloured wools hanging 
 from the top. The weavers sat, or rather squatted, 
 in a row on the ground in front of the warp and 
 worked in the pattern. They were young boys 
 and youths trained to the work early. They 
 used a small curved knife like a small sickle 
 to shear off the ends of their threads and press 
 them home when a particular bit of coloured 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 167 
 
 pattern was finished. Little oblong labels written 
 in Arabic were placed on the warp in front of each 
 weaver, which gave the written directions for the 
 colours to be used in the work. No individual 
 judgment or choice appeared to be exercised by 
 the weavers. 
 
 There was a design room also open to the court 
 under an arcade, here some quite aged natives were 
 preparing designs, sketching them out in pencil or 
 charcoal on squared paper, quite in the European 
 method, and in some cases working from photo- 
 graphs of special carpets. 
 
 I learned from the manager that the working 
 hours in this factory were from 8 a.m. till dark. 
 The boy weavers only got one and a half annas a 
 day ! We finally were shown the finished product 
 — a whole series of large handsome carpets being 
 rolled out for us to see. One of these, of a Persian 
 kind of design, would be priced at 200 rupees, the 
 manager said. Before leaving we were requested 
 to write our names, and any remarks on our visit, 
 in a visitor's book, where the list had been headed 
 by the Prince and Princess of Wales, who visited 
 these works on their tour in India in 1905. 
 
 In the forenoon of January 14th we saw the 
 eclipse of the sun from our terrace. It rather took 
 us by surprise — the light quickly becoming curiously 
 pale like moonlight and the air unusually chilly. 
 We could see the sun turned into a crescent quite 
 distinctly, and pass through various phases like a 
 moon, till it gradually regained its normal shape 
 and power shortly after noon. 
 
 As we sat on the terrace a native pedlar 
 
1 68 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 approached with two portentous bundles. He 
 salaamed, and proceeded to unload his wares in front 
 of us. His stock, however, consisted entirely of 
 
 
 A 
 
 ■^i/v 
 
 A i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AN INDIAN AUTOLYCUS 
 
 European goods — small wares such as tapes and 
 buttons, studs, soaps and perfumes, patent medicines, 
 and such articles as are supposed to meet the wants 
 of travellers. This Indian Autolycus addressed us 
 as "Father" and "Mother," and like the "Mad 
 Hatter" commenced his speeches by saying "me 
 very poor man," following this announcement by 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 169 
 
 urgent appeals to us to buy, after each purchase, 
 beginning all over again afresh. Probably he felt 
 he had to make the most of his English, as well as 
 of his stock and his opportunities. 
 
 After another look at the Golden Temple, which 
 it was impossible to approach without a crowd and 
 without clumsy canvas shoes over our own, we 
 made our way round to the Atal tower. Here, 
 again, before entering the anything but clean marble 
 court shoes had to be put off. It is an octagonal 
 shrine, or tomb, having curious beaten metal plates, 
 gilded figure designs in repousse over the doors, 
 but the decorative art here was much inferior in 
 design and detail to what we had seen further 
 south. 
 
 We then drove to the public gardens in which 
 stands the pavilion of Ranji Singh. The gardens 
 are full of beautiful palms and trees of many 
 different kinds, including fine cypresses and splendid 
 clumps of bamboos. The roads around Amritzar 
 are lined with trees, and one sees enormous banyans 
 spreading their great branches and masses of dark 
 green foliage and casting deep shadows on the long 
 avenues. Large plantations and fruit gardens, too, 
 surround the city, so that it has a very attractive 
 look although on a dead level. 
 
 Oranges of a large rough-skinned kind are grown 
 here. They are deep-coloured, and more like 
 lemons in shape. There was also a very small 
 circular orange about the size of a large cherry in 
 the hotel garden, where roses, pansies, and violets 
 were blooming freely. The native gardener was 
 generally to the fore in offering us small posies or 
 
170 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 buttonholes whenever he had an opportunity and 
 for a consideration. 
 
 We left Amritzar for Lahore on January the 15th, 
 having another long wait for the Punjab mail, this 
 time three hours behind time. However, about 
 noon another train came up and we were advised 
 by the stationmaster to go on by that in preference 
 to waiting longer for the mail. This train, he said, 
 would take us to Lahore more quickly than the 
 quick train, which sounds like a contradiction in 
 terms. It is only about an hour's journey. 
 
 The country between Amritzar and Lahore is, 
 again, flat and has no striking features. Fields 
 under irrigation green with young crops of corn, 
 often smothered in charlock, alternated with dry 
 fields or the standing canes of ripe crops, and 
 stubbles of some newly reaped. The wells were 
 plentiful. Some of the irrigation wells in this 
 district are of a different pattern and mechanism to 
 the simple draw-well seen generally. A pair of 
 oxen turn a horizontal heavy wooden wheel which 
 has slots at regular intervals around the outside of 
 its rim. These slots catch the projecting spokes 
 or straight cogs of another wheel, also horizontally 
 placed and smaller in size, and this in turn by means 
 of the cogs moves a large water wheel arranged in a 
 vertical position, the projecting cogs catching the 
 spokes of this wheel, which has a series of leather 
 buckets or water pots attached to its broad rim, on 
 the same principle as we see in dredging machines. 
 As the wheel turns the buckets are dipped one after 
 the other into the well, and as they rise again full 
 empty their contents into a trough immediately in 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 171 
 
 front of the wheel, which communicates with another 
 trough connected with the irrigating trenches, which 
 are thus supplied with water. 
 
 The station at Lahore was comparatively quiet 
 and was a pleasing contrast to the turbulent crowd 
 at Amritzar. The Charing Cross hotel received us, 
 but anything less suggestive of the associations its 
 name recalled it would be difficult to imagine. It 
 was of the usual extended bungalow type, with long 
 arcades in front of ranges of ground floor rooms, 
 spacious and lofty and reminding rather of the vast 
 rooms one sees on the stage with raftered ceilings 
 and whitewashed walls. The lower wall of our 
 sitting-room, however, was hung with very interesting 
 Indian hand-printed cotton hangings, which gave it 
 rather a distinguished appearance. There was a 
 bedroom, something between a prison and a chapel, 
 and dressing and the usual bath rooms, with zinc 
 tubs, opening out beyond. There were large 
 sitting and dining rooms, the latter an enormous 
 one, like the nave of a church, lighted by a clerestory 
 only, and cold enough, where people dined rather 
 frigidly, each group at a safe distance at separate 
 little round tables. We were glad of a log-fire in 
 the evenings, though the sun was powerful enough 
 during the day. " The Charing Cross post office" 
 was close by, which had one pigeon hole, and where 
 the stamps were sold outside under the verandah, 
 by a native squatting on the ground. 
 
 A fine broad avenue through the English quarter 
 is called " The Mall," and here the principal 
 government buildings are situated, the Law courts 
 and the Museum, and the principal stores and 
 
\J2 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 bungalows. This British residential and business 
 quarter is quite distinct and lies quite clear outside 
 the walls of the native city of Lahore. It is laid 
 out in broad drives with tan rides at the side, 
 
 ENJOYING A LOG FIRE AT LAHORE 
 
 and bordered with trees. Bungalows and shops 
 and stores in the shape of bungalows standing 
 detached in gardens are arranged pleasantly from 
 the modern residential point of view, and form 
 quite a "garden city," only marred by the atrocious 
 way in which the traders announce their names and 
 business in staring white block-letters on black 
 boards. One piano warehouse, I noticed, had 
 even a sky sign. Even the private residences are 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 173 
 
 often disfigured in the same way by black boards 
 with the name of the occupier in the ugliest block- 
 letters. 
 
 The gardens and hedges, often of roses trained 
 on trellises of bamboo, are kept very trim up and 
 down the Mall. 
 
 Smart English ladies and officers ride or driveabout 
 in their dog-carts with native tigers behind. We 
 met a very imposing and original turn out — a fine 
 pair of brown camels, well matched, were harnessed 
 to a sort of barouche, each ridden, postilion-wise, 
 by native servants in scarlet, one in the same colour 
 behind the carriage, which contained two English 
 ladies. This was probably the Lieutenant-Governor's 
 carriage. Bicycles were much in use both by 
 Europeans' (men and women) and natives — the 
 turban and loose pyjama-like clothes of the latter 
 looking- strange on the machine. The natives, 
 however, everywhere in the towns where the 
 Europeans' influence comes in seem to take to 
 machines. The sewing machine is constantly seen 
 in the bazaars, always, however, worked by a man. 
 A certain firm's poster of the eternal woman en- 
 closed in a hideous S (like a modern Eve and the 
 industrial serpent) looks particularly incongruous 
 and out of place in India, where there seems to be 
 no women working at crafts. The men do the 
 washing too, the Dhobee in white with his 
 bundle of linen being a frequent and characteristic 
 figure. 
 
 No greater contrast could be imagined than that 
 between the English quarter and the native city 
 lying within its old walls and great gates, with its 
 
i74 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 narrow picturesque streets and — stinks! Open drains 
 as at Amritzar run along each side of the streets, 
 close in front of the bazaar, where the people sit. 
 The fronts of the houses above the open shops are 
 mostly of wood of a dark rich tone, corbelled 
 arcaded balconies and windows jutting- out over the 
 street at all sorts of angles, rich with delicate and 
 varied carvings, as if the builders had vied with each 
 other which should make the most interesting- front. 
 There are charming little covered verandahs and 
 balconies with slender columns and ogee arches, 
 and pierced screen-work painted here and there, 
 but mostly the deep dusky brown tone of the 
 natural wood, dark with age, which forms an effective 
 background to the vivid colours and glitter of 
 costumes and draperies of the bazaars. The newly 
 dyed long strips of cotton or muslin in orange or 
 pink, green or lemon yellow which are hung out to 
 dry, wave like long banners over the busy life of 
 the narrow streets, where the turbaned and many 
 coloured, swarthy faced crowd, jostle along, or 
 stand in chattering groups about the shops, buying 
 and selling. The types, too, are very varied — the 
 Hindu, the Mohammedan, the Afghan, the country 
 folk ; the Mohammedan woman in trousers, the 
 Hindu woman in her graceful Sari, with her glitter- 
 ing silver anklets, and bracelets, toe-rings and nose- 
 rings ; dark eyes and shining whites momentarily 
 seen, and gleaming teeth, the mysterious looking 
 figures covered from head to foot in flowing white 
 drapery, pleated into a close fitting cap, with little 
 perforations for the eyes, in front, the effect of the 
 whole being ghostly, or even ghoulish. The white 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 177 
 
 used at Gwalior, at the Man-Mandir palace, 
 principally turquoise, green, and lemon yellow, 
 the tile-work beingr arranged in bands or friezes 
 of elephants and birds in profile, let into the red 
 sandstone. 
 
 The very stolid British " Tommy " in khaki con- 
 ducted us, in slow marching order and in solemn 
 silence, up the long sloping road to the square of 
 the Fort where he pointed out, without emotion, a 
 colonnaded Hall of audience, and then took us 
 through a gateway into the rather spacious court 
 of the old palace of Akbar, who also built the Fort. 
 On one side of the court was an interesting armoury 
 of Sikh weapons, beginning with suits of line chain 
 mail and Persian-looking steel topis, damasceened 
 and bossed circular targes up to flint-locks, and 
 match-locks, and blunderbusses. 
 
 There was quite a mediaeval-looking heavy steel 
 mace, and many sabres, and sword sticks, some 
 made with crutch handles terminating in horses' 
 heads. There were also a number of steel cuirasses. 
 I believe this armoury was arranged by Mr 
 Kipling, the father of Mr Rudyard Kipling, who 
 was head of the art school of Lahore for many years, 
 and to whom is due the extremely interesting 
 museum. 
 
 There were relics of elaborate decoration on the 
 walls and vaults of what remained of the palace, 
 and some of the glass (convex-mirror-mosaic) work 
 united with gesso-relief ornament, which we saw 
 at Udaipur, Amber, Delhi, and other places : but 
 the British occupation had tried its best, by 
 introducing hideous chunks of barrack buildino-s, 
 
 M 
 
178 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 to take the romance and beauty out of the 
 place. 
 
 Close to the Fort outside its gate is the Samadh, 
 or burning-place of Ranjit Singh. A carved lotus 
 flower, surrounded by eleven smaller ones, on a 
 raised platform inside the pavilion-like building, 
 mark the place where his body was burned with 
 eleven ladies of his Zenana. Not far off rises the 
 dome of the Jama Musjid and its noble minarets 
 of red sandstone. 
 
 There is a fine park-like country beyond the walls 
 on this side of the city with groups of old trees. 
 The minarets and domes of Lahore have a striking 
 effect seen from outside the gate. We returned 
 through the bazaars a different way, passing the 
 golden domed mosque and also the Wazar Khan 
 mosque, the latter a very fine one fronting" a small 
 square in the middle of the city, and having two 
 large minarets faced with enamelled tiles in blue 
 and green and other colours, cobalt predominating. 
 The spandrils of the main entrance, and in fact the 
 whole of the front, being decorated with tiles in 
 large arabesques and borderings, a large Arabic 
 text in blue written boldly over the arch, and panels 
 down each flank of smaller scale work. It was the 
 first tiled mosque we had seen, and quite character- 
 istic of the art of a district which culminates in the 
 renowned tombs at Multan. 
 
 At the English club house on the Mall, the 
 pipers of a Highland regiment were playing on 
 the lawn in front. The club had well laid out and 
 ample lawn tennis courts, large blue durries being- 
 hung at each end of the courts to stop the balls. 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 179 
 
 and the players had native caddies to pick them up. 
 There were zoological gardens near by where we 
 saw nylghaus and antelopes and birds of various 
 sorts. 
 
 A Victoria memorial on a laro-e scale was in 
 
 o 
 
 progress at a place where branching roads met. 
 The work of the British sculptor in India cannot 
 be said to be much more exhilarating than the work 
 of the British architect, as a rule, to judge from the 
 specimens we saw, chiefly of statues of the late 
 Queen Victoria. 
 
 The courts of Justice at Lahore are more suc- 
 cessful than most of the modern examples in India, 
 perhaps because designed in what might be called 
 the local style — the Mogul. Near by in a little 
 garden enclosed by clipped hedges was a bronze 
 statue of Lord Laurence offering- the choice of 
 government by pen or sword to the passer by. 
 It had some dramatic expression, though the choice 
 of a momentary attitude in a portrait statue is 
 perhaps open to criticism. 
 
 We visited the museum, where Mr Percy Brown 
 has succeeded Mr Kipling as director. Here is a 
 most interesting collection of typical native textiles, 
 including the raised wax designs gilded, silvered, 
 and lacquered on grounds of different coloured 
 cloths, an art which is still practised in the district 
 with success, traditional designs of flowers and birds 
 being repeated in a very skilful and effective way, 
 and applied to the adornment of portieres, covers, 
 etc. There were also good collections of native 
 jewellery and enamels. Champleve enamel, such 
 as is done at Lucknow, was illustrated by 
 
180 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 specimens in different stages from the commence- 
 ment to the finish, side by side with cloissone 
 (Japanese) illustrated in the same complete way, 
 as well as complete models showing native in- 
 dustries and handicrafts in operation ; interesting- 
 old Hindu herbals and manuscripts on vellum 
 with characteristic miniatures ; drawings of local 
 palaces and gardens in plan, elevation and bird's- 
 eye perspective. 
 
 There was a very notable collection of Greco- 
 Buddhist sculptures, which were extremely interest- 
 ing- and unusual. 
 
 Very little wood-carving, curiously enough, 
 except modern examples in screens and furniture, 
 the work of the Art School, exhibited in a separate 
 room. The city of Lahore being so rich in 
 carved wood-work it was less necessary to have it 
 in the museum, and, of course, much better to see 
 it in situ. The modern way of selling the spoils 
 of old buildings to private collections or to museums 
 is carried on in Europe to an alarming extent, so 
 that one begins to fear, in view of the rapid destruc- 
 tion of ancient houses now going on, whether there 
 will soon be left any genuine bits of antiquity in 
 this commercial world. It is better of course that 
 relics of ancient art should find a haven in a public 
 museum than that it should perish altogether, but 
 any destruction or removal for the express purpose 
 of transportation to a museum should be deprecated. 
 
 On the whole the Lahore museum was a well- 
 chosen and arranged museum, judiciously limited 
 to Indian art, and it was interesting to see the 
 gro^DS of natives — men, women, and children — 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 
 
 ibi 
 
 apparently scanning the different objects with the 
 greatest interest and with much animated conversa- 
 tion among themselves. One afternoon we drove 
 to the Waza Khan Mosque, and I made the sketch 
 reproduced here of the entrance to the mosque 
 from the carriage. The crowd was curious, but 
 not nearly so troublesome as elsewhere, and our 
 conductor, or running footman, kept them off 
 pretty well. The square had large pools of mud 
 in it here and there after recent rains. Zebus 
 were straying about, or lying down. Fruit and 
 good stalls occupied other parts of the ground, 
 and ox-carts deposited loads of wood. Men sat in 
 groups in the porch of the mosque, or on the 
 steps, from which boys flew their little diamond- 
 shaped paper kites. The mysterious-looking 
 white figures of the Mohammedan women wandered 
 about like substantial ghosts. We saw a pretty 
 little gazelle at one of the stalls, perfectly tame, and 
 a great pet of the native who owned it. 
 
 The Cashmere travelling- merchants, who 
 display their tempting wares at all the hotels, 
 spread out their stuffs in profusion — Bokhara 
 embroideries, Persian covers, kincobs, turbans, 
 and portieres of black, red, or green grounds, 
 effectively decorated with designs in the raised 
 wax, such as we saw in the museum — and used all 
 their persuasive arts to effect sales. 
 
 We did not stay long enough in Lahore to see 
 much of the Society there, but before leaving we 
 had a visit from the Princess Duleep Singh and 
 her sister, who, hearing from friends at Amritzar 
 that we were there, came to see us at the hotel. 
 
182 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 in 
 
 The princess was dressed as a Parsee lady 
 beautiful classical draperies, white with embroidered 
 borders, and she drove herself in a dog-cart, but 
 the sister was in European dress. The princess 
 
 THE MERCHANTS OF KASHMIR 
 
 recalled the circumstance of my having made a 
 little sketch in her brother the prince's cottage on 
 the Norfolk coast, which had been designed for him 
 by Mr Detmar Blow, which we visited when staying 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 We left Lahore by the mid-day Lucknow Mail, 
 after a long wait, the platform covered with 
 picturesque groups of squatting natives. We 
 
LAHORE-THK MOSQUE OF WAZA KHAN 
 
AMRITZAR AND LAHORE 18 
 
 j 
 
 eventually shared a compartment, as far as 
 Umballa, with an English official, his German 
 wife and a little girl. As far as Umballa on 
 this line, coming north, we had already journeyed. 
 The chief incident after leaving Lahore was the 
 catching- fire of one of the boxes of one of the 
 carriages of our train, which caused the passengers 
 hastily to leave it, and crowd into other parts of the 
 train, when it was stopped and the burning carriage 
 taken off at a small station just before Amritzar. 
 
 At Umballa, the dining station, which we reached 
 when it was dark, some said we had to change, 
 others said not. This was puzzling. One official 
 with more authority than the others said emphati- 
 cally "no," at last. So, having just time, we 
 scurried across the bridge to the refreshment room 
 with light hearts and sharp appetites, snatched a 
 hasty meal and hurried back to find Moonsawmy, 
 who acted as courier and took charge of the tickets, 
 in some difficulty with the officials about the tickets. 
 One official (the stationmaster) came up, and then 
 said we ought to have changed into the train which 
 was just at that moment steaming out of the 
 station, excusing his mistake by saying that he had 
 not till then seen our tickets, fussily ordering a 
 humble Hindu clerk to take the numbers. 
 
 After this we got into our compartment again 
 and settled ourselves for a sleep, as we were 
 not due at Lucknow until next morning-. During 
 the night we were constantly disturbed by 
 people opening the carriage door and peering 
 in — no doubt in search of lower berths, which 
 we occupied. At one place a Eurasian got in 
 
1 84 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 with a quantity of baggage, and got out again 
 only a few stations off. On leaving, perceiving he 
 had disturbed us he said he was " sorry for the 
 trouble," 
 
 At Barielly another man (English) got in with 
 his traps and rugs and settled himself to sleep 
 on the middle berth — which in some carriages 
 economises space between the two side ones — 
 though he was at first a little taken aback at seeing 
 that one of us was a lady. However, he turned 
 out to be a very agreeable companion afterwards, 
 and we got quite friendly as the train the next morn- 
 ing approached Lucknow, we having previously 
 decided not to stop at Cawnpore. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 LUCK NOW 
 
 \ RRIVING at Lucknow in due course we 
 ■l± parted with our fellow traveller, who was 
 met by the military chaplain, and we did not see 
 him again. The chaplain kindly gave us some 
 information, and said that the hotel we were bound 
 for was reputed to be " the best in India." This was 
 good hearing, and we found it quite borne out by 
 our experience of Wurtzler's, where we presently 
 found ourselves in comfortable rooms, bungalow- 
 like, opening on to a verandah. The hotel had 
 formerly been a palace, and was rather a handsome 
 building in its way, with a round-arched arcaded 
 front, long and low, with a pleasant enclosure of 
 trees and flower garden. 
 
 There was ''a little rift within the lute," how- 
 ever, which rather marred the first moments of our 
 arrival at Lucknow, my wife having unfortunately 
 got a little bit of grit in her eye from the engine 
 while in the train. There was nothing for it but 
 to drive to the hospital the first thing after break- 
 fast. Luckily we caught the chief surgeon (Col. 
 Anderson) just as he was attending to some native 
 cases in waiting. He at once took us to the 
 " operating room,' 7 which sounded rather fearsome, 
 and was indeed a severe place with a polished 
 
 is 5 
 
1 86 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 marble floor, a case of surgical instruments and an 
 operating table being the only furniture visible. 
 The poor eye-patient had to extend herself on the 
 
 IN HOSPITAL, LUCKNOW. THE OPERATING TABLE (PATIENT 
 HAD A BIT OF GRIT IN HER EYE AFTER A TRAIN JOURNEY) — 
 
 SIXTEEN RUPEES WERE EXTRACTED ! 
 
 table, while the Colonel very deftly found and quickly 
 removed a tiny black speck which had caused all 
 the trouble — working up right under the upper lid 
 of the eye. He put some cocaine into the eye first 
 of all, and afterwards applied a little lint and lotion. 
 The relief must have been worth anything — it might 
 have been described as a lesser Relief of Lucknow ! 
 
LUCKNOW 
 
 187 
 
 The next example of human skill or sleight of 
 hand we witnessed was in the juggling, not the 
 surgical, profession. It was a native conjurer who, 
 under the arcade of the hotel, showed us the famous 
 mano^o tree trick. As additional attractions, or a 
 
 JUGGLERS AT LUCKNOW — THE MANGO TREE TRICK 
 
 sort of side-show, he had a large cobra in a round 
 box, which, when the lid was off, reared its head 
 all alive and hissing, and ready for a performance 
 with a well-to-do mongoose, which was held in 
 readiness by a cord tied tightly round its neck, 
 which is apparently the only way in which to secure 
 a mongoose. 
 
 The man commenced his performance by placing 
 a monkey's skull on the pavement, and sticking a 
 
1 88 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 little china doll up in front of it. Then he produced 
 a very dry-looking mango seed about the size of a 
 small potato, and this he planted carefully in an 
 ordinary earthen flower-pot, covering the seed with 
 soil, and then watering it, muttering - some unknown 
 words over it. He then put it under a cloth raised 
 tentwise by a stick, to let it grow, as he said, while 
 he went on with a number of small but very skilful 
 conjuring tricks with cards, coins, marbles, ring 
 and handkerchief, etc., any of which he offered to 
 teach. Presently he lifted the cloth and showed 
 the mango tree sending up a shoot of fresh green, 
 and apparently growing vigorously. Then he 
 covered it up again and performed some more 
 tricks, after which he again uncovered the mango, 
 which now showed a stem and bunch of leaves at 
 the top like a miniature tree. Finally, after another 
 interval of a few minutes juggling and conjuring, 
 he lifted the cloth again, and, holding the pot in 
 one hand, he pulled up the little mango tree with 
 the other, showing it had stem, roots, and all. The 
 man had an assistant, but he only played a very 
 subordinate part, handing the conjurer the various 
 things he wanted from time to time, holding the 
 mongoose, but not performing in any way. These 
 wonders were to be seen for the fee of three rupees. 
 The conjurer was very proud of his " chits " which 
 he showed, and among the signatures were those 
 of " Castlereagh " and " Wenlock " ; and he asked 
 for a written testimonial in his book. 
 
 At Lucknow we had an introduction to the Chief 
 Commissioner, Mr Ross Scott, who received us 
 very cordially at his charming house, and offered to 
 
LUCKNOW 189 
 
 do anything for us. Among other kindnesses he 
 sent my wife (whose health had suffered from the 
 climate everywhere in India) a supply of excellent 
 milk from his own cows during her stay, which 
 proved of immense benefit. At his house we met 
 Mrs Dowden and her daughter, who kindly under- 
 took to show us over the ruins of the Residency 
 which were quite close by. The building stands, 
 or what remains of it after the bombardment it 
 sustained during the terrible days of "the Mutiny," 
 amid pleasant lawns and fine trees, and creepers 
 cover the ruins. In one of the rooms is a good 
 model of the Residency as it was in 1857 in the 
 midst of the native city on a rising ground, but 
 thickly surrounded by the houses and mosques, from 
 which guns and mortars were trained on to it. 
 These were shown planted on flat roofs or in 
 courtyards, wherever there was vantage ground. 
 Nothing but a few shapeless ruins remain here- 
 abouts now of the old native city, which has since 
 been curtailed and cut in two by a broad road for the 
 rapid movement of troops. However savage and 
 cruel the sepoys may have been, the British 
 reprisals were certainly severe. They seemed to 
 have practically "wiped out" old Lucknow after- 
 wards. We were shown a building — the Sikander 
 Bagh- — a high-walled enclosure, once a fair rose- 
 garden, which was taken by Colin Campbell, and 
 where 2000 rebels were bayoneted without mercy 
 by the British troops. A young English officer, 
 speaking professionally, perhaps, we met at a 
 friend's house, said that Sikander Baoh grave him 
 more satisfaction than anv other memorial of the 
 
iqo INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 mutiny. He positively "gloated over it," and 
 intended to go there again and " gloat." It is said 
 even that British soldiers bayoneted even the sick 
 and wounded Hindu soldiers in the hospitals who 
 begged to be shot instead ! 
 
 The whole place is overshadowed by memories 
 of that awful period. Nothing can impair the 
 courage and endurance of the heroic defenders of 
 the Residency ; but it is now, I believe, generally 
 admitted that the outbreak was not without its 
 causes, and that the government of the day did not 
 act judiciously, to say the least. It is commonly 
 called " The Mutiny," but it was really an insurrec- 
 tion, which must from various causes have been 
 smouldering for some time before it burst into 
 flame. The "greased cartridges" were only the 
 last straw. There seems to have been much dis- 
 content. Many sepoys, too, had been disbanded. 
 The British annexation, the deposition and deporta- 
 tion of the reionino- Kino- of Oudh and the confisca- 
 tion of his revenues, must all be considered as 
 provocative causes ; and it is a question whether at 
 any time British rule has made itself loved in India, 
 or the British residents have ever really understood 
 the Indian people. Native feeling must have been 
 generally ignored. 
 
 It was a formidable revolt, accompanied, no 
 doubt, by explosions of race hatred and by terrible 
 cruelties, but there was savagery on both sides — a 
 desperate attempt to regain possession of their own 
 country and its government on the part of the 
 princes and people. 
 
 The question remains, with all the official 
 
LUCKNOW 191 
 
 solicitude of the British government for the welfare 
 of the natives, all the railways, engineering, and 
 irrigation works, are they really better off than they 
 were under native rule ? 
 
 Are they not, though under British administra- 
 tion, more heavily taxed than they were under the 
 native kings ? Mr William Digby, CLE., who had 
 long personal and official experience in India, 
 brings a formidable array of facts and statistics 
 (from official sources, too), in his " Prosperous 
 British India," in support of the view that they 
 are, and, moreover, that the ryot — the tiller of the 
 soil — is gradually becoming poorer under our rule. 
 
 To a passing observer, the Hindus — nay, the 
 people of India, either Hindus or Mohammedans — 
 can never be Europeanised. There is a great gulf 
 between the East and the West. After all these 
 years of British occupation and administration, the 
 two races live entirely apart and separate. In 
 religion, manners, and customs, and sentiment, they 
 are fundamentally different, opposed, one might 
 say. 
 
 The British remain a transitory garrison of 
 military and civil administrative aliens, in the midst 
 of vast populations, rooted in the traditions, reli- 
 gious beliefs and observances of untold centuries, 
 during which they have carried on the same mode 
 of life, and who seem neither to seek or to desire 
 
 change. 
 
 The mere struggle to live must occupy the 
 energies of the vast majority, but among the more 
 educated and leisured classes of natives there is a 
 growing feeling of what we should call nationalism 
 
192 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 in Europe, though it may be more strictly racial 
 than national. It is difficult, however, to see how 
 anything like a universal movement over the whole 
 peninsula could arise, considering the differences of 
 caste, race and religion, or the wide differences 
 which separate Hindus and Mohammedans. Some, 
 however, rather think that political change may be 
 forced by bankruptcy, considering the poverty of 
 the people and the limits of taxation being reached. 
 
 We were shown, at the Residency, the room 
 where Sir Henry Laurence was struck with the 
 shell, the holes its explosion made in the wall, his 
 grave also, and many other memorials which have 
 a profound interest for the English visitors: Old 
 rust-eaten, muzzle-loading muskets, sabres, and 
 shot and shell, with which the Residency was 
 peppered, were collected in a group in one of the 
 rooms, and the place, as far as possible, has been 
 made an historical museum of the period of the 
 siege. 
 
 Our friends introduced us at the Chatter Manzel, 
 formerly a palace of the kings of Oudh, but now 
 used as an English club. The rooms were of 
 spacious and good proportions — long in comparison 
 with their width. Proportion, in fact, is the prin- 
 cipal notable quality of the local architecture at 
 Lucknow, the details being comparatively common- 
 place after the beautiful inventive detail and decora- 
 tion of the Mooail architects at Delhi and Agra 
 the ornamentation being mostly mere repetitions. 
 After the marble inlay of the Taj Mahal and the 
 Diwan-ud- Daulat, and Sikandra, or the rich 
 arabesques of the Zenana rooms at Amber, the 
 
LUC KNOW 193 
 
 white and yellow wash and the rather coarse 
 plaster work of the palaces and pavilions of Luck- 
 now look, comparatively speaking, cheap. The 
 stuccoed domes of the mosques miss the splendour 
 of the gold and ivory-like marble seen elsewhere. 
 Even the Jama Musjid, fine in scale as it is, lacks 
 the charm of colour. There was a smaller mosque 
 near the old stone bridge, however, which stood 
 out against the deep-blue sky in dazzling whiteness, 
 but this only showed how beautiful plain whitewash 
 appears illuminated by the Indian sun — pearly with 
 delicate reflections and warm shadows. 
 
 The Iambara had a beautifully-proportioned 
 court, with steps up to the pavilion, the symmetry 
 of the spacing being rather pleasantly broken by 
 the mosque on one side being placed at a different 
 angle in order to point to the direction of Mecca, 
 as all Mohammedan mosques must do. 
 
 Inside the pavilion, under canopies of heavy 
 embroidery in gold and silver, supported by chased 
 silver poles, were the tombs of one of the kings and 
 his zenana. On the walls were mirrors which 
 reminded us of our English empire-period framed 
 mantle-glasses. Some of these had curious tempera 
 paintings inserted in their frames of native birds 
 and trees, and there were other Indian paintings, 
 one showing General or Captain Martin — the 
 French adventurer who founded the Martiniere at 
 Lucknow in the early nineteenth century — in a 
 blue coat and gold lace and white nankeen trousers, 
 like a naval officer of that period, conferring with 
 the King of Oudh and his court. An image of 
 a winged horse (a Buddhist symbol) strikingly 
 
i 9 4 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 resembled the Assyrian type of winged man- 
 headed creatures, the treatment being remarkably 
 similar. The crowned head, with long, black, 
 curled locks, and formal, rather small, wings, with 
 each feather expressed. There was an umbrella 
 attached, which moved to and fro over the head of 
 the figure by clock-work. 
 
 We were interested to see in the Daulat Khan 
 — a sort of gallery up a steep flight of steps — a 
 series of full-length portraits of the kings of Oudh 
 in their robes, painted by English artists. Most of 
 these were signed by my friend T. Erat Harrison, 
 1882-4, and I recalled the fact of having seen him 
 at work on one of them about that time. 
 
 An English lady, Mrs Dowden (wife of Colonel 
 Dowden), was kind enough to conduct us through 
 Lucknow and its wonders, and she proved an 
 excellent cicerone, and waved off all unnecessary 
 attentions from caretakers and their hangers-on 
 with the decisive air of a resident. 
 
 We passed a hideous clock tower — one of many 
 in India — put up by some modern architect (as a 
 Jubilee memorial, I think). It is astonishing what 
 monstrosities in clock towers have been perpetrated 
 by modern architects in India. 
 
 Finally, we got to the gate of the old city of 
 Lucknow, by which we entered the principal street 
 of the bazaar. There were many interesting native 
 shops. At one I noticed some blocks of patterns 
 for printing by hand on cotton. They were cut in 
 some hard wood. The handicraft, too, was still 
 carried on here. There were many pretty bead 
 necklaces, tassels, and quaint toys. We visited, 
 
LUCKNOW 
 
 i95 
 
 up a steep narrow staircase, a muslin and jewel mer- 
 chant's store. He showed some charming Indian 
 
 BETTER LUCK AT LUCKNOW — -THROUGH THE CHOWK 
 ON AN ELEPHANT 
 
 muslins spangled with silver spots and patterns. 
 He also had one or two pieces of old Lucknow 
 enamel not ordinarily seen in the bazaars now. 
 
i 9 6 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 We visited another friend who had been spend- 
 ing the winter at Lucknow — Mrs Jopling-Rowe, 
 the well-known artist, whose son is a Magistrate 
 here, dining with them at their charming bungalow 
 one evening. Mr Commissioner Jopling very 
 courteously placed elephants at our disposal on 
 which to ride through the chowk. 
 
 An irrigation well near the hotel interested me, 
 and I made a sketch of it in a chequered shade. 
 The yoke of oxen and two natives at work hauling 
 up the water for the garden in a leather bucket. 
 While thus engaged another friend travelling in 
 the East came up, so that as regards friends we 
 were quite in luck's way at Lucknow. 
 
 After this it was time to go and meet the 
 elephants our friends had ordered at the chowk. 
 Mrs Jopling-Rowe took us in her carriage through 
 Wentworth Park, and past the palaces to the gate 
 of the city, where we found two fine elephants in 
 waiting. My wife and I mounted one of them by 
 the usual ladder, the animal kneeling. A young 
 officer who was of the party, however, showed us 
 another way. He got a leg up by means of the 
 trunk, and so over the elephant's head on to his 
 back. We then processed through the bazaar (the 
 chowk), preceded by a native policeman, in khaki 
 with a scarlet turban, to clear the way, and two 
 more behind. The elephants seemed to quite fill 
 up the narrow street, so that there was danger of 
 a block when we met an ox-cart. A very com- 
 prehensive view is to be had from an elephant's 
 back, as one can see not only a long way ahead, 
 but well into the shops where the people are at 
 
LUCKNOW 197 
 
 work, and also command the balconies and roofs, 
 where there were often interesting groups. 
 
 We threaded our way through the chowk, passing 
 at its end under one of the old arched gateways 
 and along a narrower street, which led us out into 
 the broad military road, which the British, after 
 the revolt, ruthlessly cut right through the old city, 
 uglifying it, of course. There is a wonderful 
 variety and richness, again, here, in the old house- 
 fronts with arcaded balconies and doorways of 
 carved wood. The patterns, chiefly running 
 borders, treated very fancifully and delicately. 
 The native houses were not so high as in Lahore, 
 but the carving might compare with the same sort 
 of work there in detail. 
 
 We lunched at the charming abode of another 
 English official and his wife (Mr and Mrs Saunders), 
 who were very pleasant and hospitable. The lady 
 had considerable taste in furniture and decoration, 
 and her rooms showed the influence of white and 
 green, and looked cool and agreeable in a light key. 
 
 Afterwards we drove to see the celebrated 
 Martiniere, the young officer accompanying us. 
 The Martiniere is the fantastic palace built by 
 the French General or Captain Martin, before 
 mentioned, and is a curious conglomerate sort of 
 scenic design of late Italo-French Renaissance 
 character, reminding one rather of Isola Bella, semi- 
 classical figures being perched on every pinnacle 
 and balustrade, and there were two grotesque lions, 
 doing duty as supporters or consoles, with mouths 
 so open that the sky could be seen through them. 
 The building towered high in several stories in 
 
198 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 the centre, and spread out wide into two curved 
 long and low wings of one story, opening on to 
 broad terraces and steps leading to a small lake, 
 from the middle of which rose a fluted column. 
 The general's heart is said to be buried beneath 
 this. The Martiniere was intended by him to be 
 a college for boys. He founded another at Cal- 
 cutta, and another in his native town — Lyons — in 
 France. Martin seems to have had a curious, 
 eventful history, beginning as a French prisoner, 
 under the British, afterwards entering the British 
 army and becoming a captain, when he took service 
 under the Nawab of Oudh and became general of 
 his army, finally accumulating by some means a 
 large fortune, which he spent on this building and 
 in founding the schools which bear his name. 
 
 We passed another house ruined at the time of 
 "the Mutiny," whence the women and children 
 were removed to from the Residency, and where 
 Lieutenant Paul is buried. 
 
 Mr Ross Scott entertained us with a distinguished 
 company to dinner at his hospitable house before 
 we left Lucknow. One Enodish colonel of the 
 party with whom I had a conversation had recently 
 returned from Burmah, and had brought back some 
 fine silk embroidered robes, some china bowls, and 
 caps. The latter were of soft felt, and could be 
 worn either with the edge turned down or up, 
 forming a brim. 
 
 The colonel had lived some time in Burmah and 
 had seen service there, having been through the 
 British campaign against the " Dacoits." He said 
 that the Dacoits were largely composed of men of 
 
LUCKNOW 199 
 
 the disbanded native army (for which I suppose 
 our Government were responsible), and they roamed 
 about the country preying on the people, plunder- 
 ing and sometimes murdering them. The Burmese 
 people, he said, only wanted to be left alone in 
 peace (like most people). He had made many 
 friends among them, as he knew the language and 
 had lived amongst them at that time. On revisiting 
 the country and finding things under British con 
 trol and administration, he found most of his Bur- 
 mese native friends in prison. They were there, 
 he said, merely for breaking some official regulation 
 which probably they did not in the least under- 
 stand. The natives complained to him that the 
 English officials lived aloof from them, and were 
 not friendly and sympathetic as he (the Colonel) 
 had been, and they never got any forwarder. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 BENARES 
 
 r\UR next destination was Benares. I had for 
 ^^ long had the feeling, from the descriptions 
 one had read and the photographs one had seen 
 of this wonderful place, that it would sum up and 
 centralise, as it were, to the eye the whole life of 
 the Indian people, while it would also be a symbol 
 of their faith to the mind. 
 
 It was, therefore, with unusual anticipations that 
 we turned our faces thither, and on the 21st of 
 January took the early morning train from Lucknow 
 to the great focus of Hindu worship on the sacred 
 Ganges. The kind commissioner's native ser- 
 vant, in scarlet, awaited us at the station with a 
 parting gift and a note of introduction to the 
 Maharajah of Benares. 
 
 The train passed through a richer and more 
 fruitful country than usual, but level, plain all the 
 way, reaching Benares Cantonment about two 
 o'clock. We drove to Clark's hotel, which has a 
 pretty portico full of palms, and a splendid orange 
 creeper, then in full flower, hung over the usual 
 bungalow annexe. The house was quiet, and 
 had a semi-private aspect, more like a country 
 bungalow. 
 
 Finding the Maharajah's palace was some five 
 
BENARES 201 
 
 or six miles off and on the other side of the river, 
 we were advised to leave our letter at the Guest 
 House with our cards. The Guest House was 
 quite near by. Continuing our drive through the 
 bazaar we thought the main street wider than 
 most of the native cities, but the bazaars did not 
 look so busy, and many shops were vacant. Bal- 
 conies, the roofs of which were supported on arcades 
 of slender columns with Hindu caps, were of a differ- 
 ent type to those hitherto seen. In the European 
 quarter there were poorly - designed, would-be 
 Gothic British buildings, and mission churches 
 of the usual bald type. There was a Queen's 
 Park with the commonplace iron railing and low 
 stone parapet enclosing it, these innovations, 
 as usual, quite spoiling the surroundings of a 
 native city. 
 
 The next morning we had a visit from the Maha- 
 rajah's private secretary, who invited us to drive 
 in the afternoon to visit the Buddhish topes and 
 sculptures at Sarnath about five miles from Benares. 
 An American lady we had previously met was to 
 be of the party, and she was staying at the Guest 
 House, and at the appointed hour the Maharajah's 
 carriage, with a coachman in a green and gold 
 turban and scarlet tunic, and two active young 
 Hindus, similarly dressed, acted as running footmen 
 to clear the way, when not at their posts standing 
 at the back of the carriage. We called at the Guest 
 House for our American friend. It was a more 
 palatial building than the one at Gwalior, standing 
 in a small park with outer gates and a drive. The 
 house was in the classic style — a white building 
 
202 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 with flat roof and columned portico. In the 
 large hall on the ground floor there was a 
 small coloured statuette of the Maharajah on 
 
 THE MAHARAJAH PLACES HIS CARRIAGE AT OUR DISPOSAL 
 
 horseback, photographs and portraits upon the 
 walls, including English miniatures of an English 
 officer and his ladies of the early nineteenth 
 century, and some engravings of portraits of 
 Queen Caroline. A stuffed lioness was lying 
 on a side-board. 
 
 The road to Sarnath lay through avenues of fine 
 trees a great part of the way, chiefly mangoes, 
 

 BENARES 203 
 
 banyans, acacias, and tamarinds. The young 
 trees planted to fill the gaps were protected by 
 circular fences, sometimes topped by prickly pears. 
 Sometimes the circular fence was made of bricks, 
 an aperture being left between every alternate 
 brick. 
 
 At Sarnath we saw the results of recent ex- 
 cavations. There was a wonderful pillar made 
 out of a single piece of marble, but fractured in 
 digging it out. One part stood upright in the 
 earth, the other lay horizontally. The top or cap 
 was placed under an awning near by. It was 
 formed of four lions facing outwards, their heads, 
 chests, and fore limbs being alone visible, their 
 claws resting on the rim of a circular fillet, on which 
 was sculptured in low relief a horse, an elephant, a 
 lion, and a bull, each animal being placed between 
 a wheel of a solar character, each wheel having 
 twenty-four spokes. Below this fillet was a curved 
 drooping fringe of leaves such as are characteristic 
 in Persian columns as well as Hindu. The marble 
 of which the column and the sculptures were made 
 was of a peculiar greyish almost of a flesh colour, 
 with small spots. Both the column and the sculp- 
 tures were very highly polished, and the treatment 
 of the lions was remarkably Greek in character with 
 perhaps a touch of Persian or even Assyrian for- 
 malism in the treatment of the heads and manes 
 of the lions. The animals in relief, between 
 the wheels, too, were remarkably free, spirited, and 
 well modelled. 
 
 There were the remains of an ancient Buddhist 
 temple near. In what was probably the inner 
 
2o 4 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 shrine was a sculptured standing figure of Buddha, 
 about two-thirds life size, in alto relievo. The 
 figure was represented in a long robe, the limbs 
 being boldly expressed through the drapery, which 
 hung broadly and smoothly over them, without 
 folds, except at the sides, which were treated in 
 the rather formal spiral manner of early Greek 
 work. 
 
 The American lady remarked on seeing this 
 figure that " The gentleman seems to have put his 
 legs through his clothes." 
 
 The figure was framed in a border of astralagus, 
 cut in low relief, having a running escalloped 
 border outside it and stepped mouldings. The 
 doorway to this shrine, too, had a richly carved 
 bordering. 
 
 There were many most interesting fragments 
 collected together in and around a building- near. 
 In the court was a large circular carved stone. 
 This was called Buddha's umbrella, and its original 
 position was over the head of a large figure of the 
 saint, sculptured in the round, close by. The 
 design of the umbrella, a lotus flower, the flower 
 of life, the petals radiating from the centre, and 
 enclosing" this were a series of concentric rings of 
 pattern ; the first consisted of rosettes, or smaller 
 lotus flowers, alternating with grotesque lions, 
 winged horses, elephants, camels, and bulls ; the 
 next showed the anthemion, doubled or reversed, 
 alternating with the fylfot or gammadion rf, and 
 another form frequent in early Greek pattern (as 
 well as Chinese) the geometric four-petalled flower. 
 There were numerous small figures of Buddha here, 
 
BENARES 205 
 
 treated in a similar way to the one first mentioned, 
 as well as other sculptures of a Hindu type, 
 resembling those at Ellora. 
 
 There we saw the great Tope (called the 
 Dhamek). This stood on rather higher ground, 
 and was apparently built of rubble, which was ex- 
 posed at the top, but the sides were covered with 
 fine bands of carved ornament in stone, carried to 
 a considerable height, and consisting of a frieze 
 of bold scroll work of a Greek character, alternating 
 with bands of a kind of Chinese-like diagonal diaper, 
 divided by plain belts of stone. At intervals these 
 bands were intersected by flat dome-shaped forms 
 slightly projecting beyond the bands, and in these 
 were recesses intended, no doubt, originally to 
 contain seated figures of Buddha. These flat dome- 
 shaped forms, connected by bands, suggested a 
 palisade, which may have been the original 
 way of enclosing and protecting these topes 
 or tombs ; and they may also have been the 
 early form or prototype of the curious clustered 
 dome-shaped pinnacles which are multiplied to 
 form the spires of Jain temples so often seen 
 in India. 
 
 Sarnath is the place where Buddha began to 
 preach, and the great tope is supposed to mark the 
 spot where his first sermon was delivered. The 
 excavations of General Cunningham here disclose 
 the fragments of a great city which probably stood 
 here about 2000 years ago. 
 
 Returning to Benares from this intensely interest- 
 ing spot, we dined at the Guest House with our 
 American friend. The rooms were luxuriously 
 
206 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 upholstered and furnished from Europe, and were 
 occupied by the Prince and Princess of Wales when 
 they were here in 1905. The dinner was excel- 
 lently cooked and served by native attendants, with 
 the choicest wines and liquors. 
 
 There were some lovely old Indian miniatures on 
 vellum framed and hanging 1 on the wall of one of 
 the salons, representing various scenes in the life 
 of a Maharajah — a cock-fight, polo, reception of a 
 foreign embassy (in Dutch seventeenth century 
 costume), and other subjects, each full of charming 
 details of architecture, dress and decoration. Be- 
 sides these there were the usual official photographic 
 groups, showing English officers, princes, and 
 governor-generals grouped around the Maharajah 
 — in one the Czar of Russia appeared. Indian 
 carpets were on the floor, and English sporting 
 prints on the walls of the dining-room. 
 
 The next day, January 23rd, His Highness's 
 secretary had arranged to send a carriage for us 
 quite early (about 7 a.m.), to take us to see the 
 ghats. When we reached the river side, which 
 is a considerable drive from the Guest House, 
 we found a beautiful state barge awaiting us. 
 It was shaped and painted like a peacock, 
 and had a little pavilion in the centre. In 
 this lovely vessel we embarked, and glided 
 slowly down the river with the stream, guided 
 by the scarlet-jacketed oarsmen, with their long' 
 bamboo handled oars, and a broad steering paddle 
 at the stern. 
 
 The spectacle of Benares from a boat on the 
 Ganges is perhaps the most extraordinary sight in 
 
BENARES 
 
 207 
 
 all India. At every ghat or opening to the river, 
 down the great flights of steps, a throng of natives 
 in all the colours of the rainbow press to the water's 
 
 BENARES : VIEWING THE GHATS FROM THE MAHARAJAH'S 
 PEACOCK BOAT 
 
 edge. Some plunge in, some approach timidly, 
 and very gradually submerge themselves. Their 
 brown skins shining in the water. The men always 
 have some sort of waist cloth on, but the women 
 go in in their garments, or, at least, clad to their 
 waists. All ages are there — it recalled the mediaeval 
 
2oS INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 allegories of the Fountain of Youth. One does 
 not often see infants dipped, though they are, 
 occasionally, by their parents, and object to 
 the water in the same natural and vigorous 
 manner as European babies are apt to do at 
 their baptism. 
 
 Old tottering women and men may be seen, as 
 well as the young, strong and vigorous, all earnestly 
 washing, or performing strange genuflexions with 
 the most determined devotion. Characteristic 
 features of this wonderful scene are the large 
 matting umbrellas of the priests, who sit on small 
 platforms of bamboo raised on the steps. These 
 expect fees to be paid them by those who come to 
 bathe at the ghats. Rows of snake charmers greet 
 the traveller on landing at the ghats, who turn 
 hissing cobras out of circular boxes and hold them 
 aloft or twine them round their necks, or perhaps, 
 as an extra attraction, empty out a swarm of 
 scorpions to catch the eye of the stranger, all 
 eager to perform the marvels of their art on 
 the slightest encouragement — and a few rupees. 
 Sacred zebu bulls wander about and often lie on 
 the steps. 
 
 It seems strange that people should lave and drink 
 of the water, which is fouled one would suppose by 
 all sorts of impurities at the margin. Washing of 
 clothes goes on everywhere, decayed flowers float 
 along, even bodies of drowned dogs are seen 
 occasionally. It must have been at Benares that 
 yEsop's fable of the two pots was born, for there the 
 earthen and brazen vessels might quite possibly 
 float down the stream together. Pots are scoured 
 
BENARES 
 
 too 
 
 on the steps, and at the Burning Ghat they pour the 
 ashes of the dead into the river. 
 
 At the Burning Ghat they pile up logs of wood to 
 
 
 WE SEE SNAKES AT EENARES 
 
 form the pyre, and the white turbaned dark figures, 
 with nothing on but waist cloths, are kept busy at 
 their ghastly work. Some of the bodies are brought 
 down with flowers and chanting : others lie there 
 with no following or ceremony : some are swathed in 
 red or white cloth like mummies, others as they were 
 born are lifted on to the piles of logs, which being 
 set alight, soon reduce all to the same condition, 
 o 
 
210 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Some of the bodies are carefully dipped in the 
 Ganges before being burned, and are often left at 
 the water's edge while the pyre is being prepared. 
 Wood was placed over as well as under the bodies, 
 and a torch was put to the mouth, Other bodies, 
 again, are taken out in boats unburned and appar- 
 ently dressed and seated in chairs, and suddenly in 
 mid-stream are toppled over into the water. We 
 saw an old man disposed of in this way. Our 
 boatman pointed him out as a specially holy person, 
 and we did not realise he was a corpse. The 
 bodies of infants, swathed in white, are also treated 
 in this way. 
 
 The Maharajah's secretary explained that the 
 Ganges water had been analysed by European 
 experts and pronounced to be the best water in the 
 world, having a peculiar property of destroying the 
 germs of disease. It was difficult, however, to see 
 how even "the best water" could avoid getting fouled 
 with such operations constantly going on ; but of 
 course there is a strong stream all the time, so that 
 everything must eventually be carried down to the 
 sea. 
 
 A continuous many-coloured stream of pilgrims, 
 bearing huge bundles of bedding, were constantly 
 moving along behind this busy life of the bathing 
 odiats, ascendino- or descending the oreat flio-hts 
 
 o o o o o 
 
 of steps leading up through the various gates 
 to the city. It seemed to be part of that uni- 
 versal exodus we had witnessed at every railway 
 station in India. It is said that representatives 
 from every village in the peninsula may be found 
 at Benares. 
 
BENARES 2 1 1 
 
 Then, as a no less striking - background to these 
 extraordinary human groups, rise the domes of 
 temples and minarets of palaces, their golden vanes 
 and finials glittering against the deep blue sky. 
 Windows, balconies and terraces placed high up, 
 with vast walls below them. These great walls, 
 which give so much distinction and breadth to the 
 river front of Benares, have a practical reason, 
 inasmuch as it is a necessity thus to raise the 
 temple and palace floors, owing to the sudden 
 rising of the Ganges in the rainy season, when 
 these walls are sometimes hidden in the waters. 
 
 The musical accompaniments of the spectacle 
 consist in the weird and wandering notes which 
 issue from the temples, produced by a sort of haut- 
 boy, and the subdued thud of the tomtoms. I saw 
 a dusky long-haired fakir stand on the steps at the 
 Mahikarunika ghat and sound a long straight brass 
 trumpet. 
 
 After voyaging in the peacock boat the whole 
 length of the ghats, we returned to our carriage- 
 in-waiting at a convenient point from which to 
 approach the Golden Temple. From the main 
 street of the Bazaar we were conducted by the 
 secretary down a very narrow passage crowded 
 with worshippers, and then up a dark staircase to a 
 terrace from which we could see the cluster of gilded 
 copper domes. Afterwards in the sacred precincts 
 we saw the "well of knowledge," but did not drink 
 of it, having too much foreknowledge of the con- 
 dition of its water. 
 
 Our next excursion was to pay a visit to the 
 Maharajah at his palace. We were conducted by 
 
212 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 his secretary in the carriage as before, driving to 
 the river side opposite the palace some six miles 
 off. On the road we stopped to see the famous 
 Monkey Temple — a Hindu Temple in an arcaded 
 court of the usual type. This court was full of 
 monkeys — a sandy-brown coloured sort with pink 
 faces, probably Macaques — not so handsome as the 
 wild silver grey ones we had seen at Ahmedabad. 
 They accepted offerings, but not so greedily, as 
 they were evidently well fed, and dried peas lay 
 about untouched. They gambolled about the 
 temple at their sweet will. These monkeys are 
 sacred to Vishnu, and represent Hunuman the 
 monkey god. 
 
 There was a fine tank with steps to the water's 
 edge, close by the temple. Just before this we 
 passed the Hindu College which Mrs Annie Besant 
 has established for the higher education of native 
 children of both sexes — but not a mixed school. 
 This work has been liberally endowed by the 
 Maharajah of Benares, who also granted the site. 
 Mrs Besant is the principal, but owing to the illness 
 of Colonel Olcott, she was not then there, 
 being at Madras nursing the Colonel in what proved 
 to be his last illness. 
 
 Reaching- the river side, a boat was in waiting to 
 take us across to the palace, rowed by two Hindu 
 boys — at least they started rowing, but soon we 
 got into shallows, where they took to poling, and 
 finally had to get out and push the boat along, 
 until getting into deeper water again they rowed 
 us to the palace steps. 
 
 It was quite a high steep flight, no doubt existing 
 
BENARES 213 
 
 for the same river reason as the high walls of 
 Benares — to be out of the reach of the floods. 
 There were numbers of natives ascending and 
 descending or grouped on the steps. 
 
 We climbed up, and entered the palace up more 
 stairs, and were shown into a large reception salon, 
 where much of the furniture was " under canvas," 
 but there was one handsome couch displayed, 
 inlaid with ivory. Presently H.H. the Maharajah 
 entered, accompanied by his two chief officers, who 
 spoke English well, his painter in ordinary, and 
 several attendants. Chairs were placed in the 
 centre of the room, around a small marble table. 
 The Maharajah seated himself, and we with the 
 private secretary grouped ourselves about him. 
 The Maharajah was dressed in a small-patterned 
 long tunic of pink brocaded with gold, a small round 
 cap on his head, close fitting white trousers and 
 patent leather shoes. He seemed quite merry and 
 pleased to see us. I showed him my book of 
 sketches, which interested him, as he said he had 
 never seen drawings of the kind before. His 
 painter in ordinary, to whom I was introduced, was 
 also interested, and asked some questions through 
 the secretary, not himself speaking English. He had 
 painted the full length portraits of the Maharajahs 
 which hung aloft in this salon. The Prince presently 
 rose and invited us to the terrace, to which we 
 passed after him, through an arcade, an attendant 
 holding a largfe silk umbrella over him. There was 
 a very fine view from this terrace up and down the 
 river. The city of Benares, with its domes and 
 minarets, seen far down on the left, and the open 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF 
 
214 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 plain country opposite. The secretary said that 
 when the Ganges rose the city looked as if it was 
 floating on the surface of the water. 
 
 We then all returned to the salon (or Durbar Hall, 
 
 t ■ - ■ . < 
 
 THE MAHARAJAH S RECEPTION, DECORATING THE VISITORS 
 
 as I ought to have called it) and took our leave, 
 H.H. presenting us with a book of photographs of 
 the ghats, with his own portrait, both of which he 
 inscribed. Finally he placed necklaces of some 
 kind of gold or gilt tissue around the necks of the 
 ladies, and one of silver-tissue around mine, and 
 concluded by putting scent on our handkerchiefs 
 from a handsome silver bottle. 
 
 Before we left the palace the Maharajah's jewels 
 
BENARES 215 
 
 were shown to us— wonderful strings of rubies and 
 emeralds almost as big as hen's eggs. These were 
 in rather worn and faded cases of velvet, and offered 
 up on rusty old tea trays — a strange mixture of 
 splendour and squalor. 
 
 The secretary then took us by carriage to see a 
 Hindu Temple, covered with sculpture, standing 
 clear on a raised platform ascended by a flight of 
 steps, and surrounded by the usual open court. 
 We saw several fine elephants waiting at a gateway, 
 and afterwards visited the Maharajah's pleasant 
 flower garden, prettily laid out with long centre 
 tanks, and rose trellises, terraces, and pavilions. 
 From here we soon reached the river side, and 
 embarking in the boat again, returned in the same 
 manner we had come, returning to our quarters in 
 the dusk of the evening, the secretary leaving us at 
 his dwelling at Benares. 
 
 The Maharajah having placed a boat and a 
 carriage at our disposal, we arranged to visit the 
 ghats again the next day, especially as I was anxious 
 to obtain a sketch or two of the wonderful scenes 
 by the river. So driving to the steps again we 
 embarked, taking Moonsawmy with us to interpret. 
 I got the boatmen to stop the boat off the Mani- 
 kamka Ghat, 1 which is perhaps the most striking 
 of all, with its red sandstone pinnacles, immense 
 flights of steps and terraces. Here I worked till 
 noon, when one had rather the sensation of every- 
 thing curling up with the heat of the sun, including 
 one's own frame ! The next morning we again re- 
 turned to the river, using the Maharajah's carriage 
 
 1 See frontispiece. 
 
216 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 and boat, which latter was not, however, the beautiful 
 peacock barge of our first morning, but a very 
 substantial sort of house-boat, with plenty of space 
 on the upper deck or flat roof of the house, and 
 solid chairs to sit on. This time I chose the Nepal 
 Temple for my subject. This temple, with its 
 pagoda-like roof and shining golden finial, had a 
 Chinese aspect. The temple itself was of a deep 
 rich Indian red, and had a terrace in front on the 
 top of a high wall close to the river, on one side 
 being the entrance to the palace with two minarets. 
 A mass of dark green foliage partly shaded the 
 Temple on the left hand and added to the charm 
 and richness of the subject — the throng of figures 
 on the steps, and the boats rocking on the clear 
 green water, completing the picture at the river's 
 edge, alive with colour and movement. The pro- 
 cession of pilgrims in an endless line, and the whole 
 human drama going on just as before, and as it has 
 been every day for ages. 
 
 The moon was now again bright at nights and it 
 was much warmer. We heard the jackals again 
 as at Udaipur. 
 
 We met two London friends at the hotel, 
 and made some pleasant acquaintances — a young 
 American who had been travelling in China 
 and Japan and Java and was going on to Europe ; 
 also three young Oxford men, connected with the 
 Oxford Mission, I understood — one of them on his 
 way to take up some official post in Japan. 
 
 The roses at Clark's Hotel were very profuse, 
 a beautiful silver bowl of Benares work full of them 
 each day decorated our table. 
 
BENARES 217 
 
 It was extremely quiet except for the almost 
 continual cry of a bird I could not name, but which 
 at first we thought was a pea-fowl. The note, 
 however, was not hoarse or grating but full and 
 bell-like, though very monotonous, consisting of 
 two notes. We heard this bird everywhere south 
 after Benares. 
 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 CALCUTTA — DARJEELING 
 
 A X 71 TH parting compliments to the Maharajah, 
 * * whom I ventured to present, and his 
 officers, with photographs of some of my pictures, 
 we left Benares for Calcutta on January 26th, 
 departing by a mid-day train, belated as usual. 
 This took us to Mogul Serai, where we changed 
 into the Calcutta mail. At the station it was 
 difficult to find a place for the soles of our feet, 
 as the whole of the platform was occupied by 
 native infantry, in khaki, who were camping down 
 with their arms piled and their baggage around 
 them. 
 
 The Calcutta mail was preceded by the limited 
 mail, consisting chiefly of post-office vans, but 
 having room for a few passengers. One of our 
 friends of the Oxford party who were going on by 
 it very kindly tried to get us places also, but there 
 was no room left. However, the other mail 
 followed very quickly, in which we found plenty of 
 room, our only fellow-traveller being an American. 
 
 We had, before reaching Mogul Serai, obtained 
 a farewell glimpse of Benares as we crossed the 
 iron bridge over the Ganges, below the city, and 
 saw the slender minarets of the Aurangzer Mosque, 
 and the smoke of the Burning Ghat. The country 
 
C ALCUTTA^D AR.TEELING 2 1 9 
 
 for some distance was richer and more fruitful than 
 usual, and well clad with trees, among which were 
 many fine cocoa palms, their smooth, slender stems 
 having a steely blue effect against the deep green 
 foliage of mangoes and acacias. 
 
 The scenery grew tamer afterwards, and generally 
 flat, with occasional mud-walled and thatch-roofed 
 villages huddled together. 
 
 After passing as bad a night as might be expected 
 in the train, we got into Calcutta about six in the 
 morning at the Howrah station. 
 
 After some difficulty in getting a tickorgary — 
 the Indian equivalent for a "four-wheeler" — we 
 had rather a long drive to the Grand Hotel, cross- 
 ing the river by a bridge just outside the station, 
 where there was a bathing ghat, gaily populous at 
 that hour, the bathing operations being followed by 
 breakfast on the steps or in the pavilions on the 
 terrace behind. 
 
 The streets of Calcutta looked rather dingy and 
 neglected. The hotel was vast but gloomy, and 
 the prices high ; but a bath and a rest after the 
 long railway journey were very welcome, and we 
 were glad to get our letters. We found the tem- 
 perature much warmer, however, and more like 
 Bombay. 
 
 The Minto Fete — a sort of bazaar and military 
 tournament combined — absorbed a great deal of 
 attention among the residents. This occupied a 
 large enclosure on the Esplanade, under canvas. 
 The familiar posters used for the Military Tourna- 
 ment in London met the eye on all sides, with gay 
 fluttering bunting strung across the streets as it 
 
220 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 appeared the Amir was expected here too, though 
 his visit was to be considered "private." 
 
 One of our introductions here was to Miss 
 Sorabji. a Parsee lady of much influence, and a 
 
 THE SOOTHSAYER AT CALCUTTA — (OR PALMISTRY UNDER 
 THE PALMS) 
 
 most interesting personality, well known and 
 beloved by a large circle of English friends. She 
 had a charming house, in a garden of palms, in 
 Carnac Street. We found her entertaining a party 
 of fashionable ladies at afternoon tea, on a shady 
 lawn in front of her house. In the midst of the 
 group, squatting on the grass, was a soothsayer and 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 221 
 
 palmist — a Hindu "wise man," robed in white, 
 but without any turban. He had some oblong- 
 shaped pages out of an ancient book of palmistry, 
 and some curious phrenological-looking diagrams 
 lying on the grass in front of him, and these he 
 appeared to be consulting from time to time, while 
 with great deliberation he examined the hands of 
 the ladies, who gazed at him quite anxiously, as if 
 he were really an inspired diviner of their lives. 
 This man was supposed to be gifted with very 
 special powers, and seemed to be taken quite 
 seriously, but as far as we could gather, he was 
 only mentioning the usual range of probable or not 
 impossible events which might happen in the 
 course of any life, though, no doubt, more or less 
 adapted to the circumstances and character of the 
 lady before him, as far as he could guess it, and 
 calculated to fit individual cases. He certainly 
 looked wily and cunning enough for anything, as he 
 moved his finger mysteriously over the charts, or 
 pretended to count or reckon something while 
 keeping the lady's left hand open before him. 
 A curious scene altogether, with the afternoon tea- 
 table, and the ordinary chatter going on. 
 
 There was an Industrial Exhibition open on 
 some open ground near a large, yellow-washed, 
 eighteenth century style of church. It combined 
 a switchback railway, and some of the popular 
 attractions of Earl's Court, with an interesting- show 
 of hand-weaving in linens, silks, and carpets, with 
 dyeing, printing, and other industries, the exhibits 
 being those of societies or firms. In some cases 
 the work of various schools of Art were shown, as 
 
222 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 that of the Maharajah's, at Jaipur, chiefly metal 
 work and enamelling. Among the brass work 
 were to be seen the spherical brass rolling lamps, 
 pierced with an all-over intricate floral design, that 
 left fairly evenly distributed apertures through 
 which the rays of light would strike when the lamp 
 was lighted within. This, by an ingenious piece of 
 mechanism, always maintained its level position, 
 though the sphere might be rolled along the ground 
 like a ball. It could be. opened by hinges in two 
 equal hemispherical halves. These lamps are used 
 at festivals in the temples, and have a beautiful 
 effect. 
 
 Calcutta is not impressive architecturally, cer- 
 tainly. The modern buildings are of the usual 
 commercial type as a rule. Government House 
 has a certain stateliness with its white columned 
 porticoes among the palms and greenery of other 
 trees ; and Carnac Street is a long wide street of 
 large detached residences standing in ample 
 gardens. The Esplanade is a wide open plain in 
 the midst of the town, with some groups of trees 
 upon it, but rather brown and desolate, the turf 
 being burned by the sun. The native quarters are 
 very squalid. The bazaars and shops were often 
 tumble-down temporary-looking sheds and structures 
 of bamboo sticks and straw, old tins being often 
 seen thrown on to weight the rotten matting or 
 thatch which formed the roofs, which were often, 
 too, patched with corrugated iron. Occasionally 
 there was a house-front which had seen better 
 days — a former villa or mansion, with a columned 
 portico, but now become a squalid tenement house. 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 223 
 
 These were at least one's impressions on a very 
 short visit ; but it was so oppressive that we were 
 anxious to get away to Darjeeling, and so took our 
 departure on January 28th by an afternoon train 
 from the Iscaldah station. For about an hour or 
 so after leaving Calcutta, the train runs through 
 beautiful groves of palms and mangoes, plantains 
 and bamboos, intersected by tanks of water, 
 vegetable gardens, and thatched villages among 
 the trees. Later we crossed the great open plains 
 of Bengal, cultivated and fertile under irrigation, 
 with but few trees, stretching as far as the eye could 
 see under the full moon. 
 
 At Sara we changed, having - to leave the train 
 to cross the river Ganges. The scene was a 
 strange one. The waiting steamer lying ready, 
 had to be approached over the wide shallows by 
 two long narrow gangways, constructed out of a 
 few planks, suspended from bamboo sticks stuck 
 upright in the shallow water, with lights at intervals. 
 A troop of European and American travellers 
 wending their way from the train along one of the 
 gangways to the white steamer, and a procession 
 of natives with their bundles crowding along the 
 other to the same vessel. 
 
 Arrived on board we found a table spread ready 
 on the quarter-deck and we had an excellent dinner 
 — very superior to those provided by most of the 
 hotels. After this meal was over the steamer 
 started on its voyage across the wide river, having 
 a strong electric search-light at the bows which 
 threw a great shaft of white light to the opposite 
 shore, along which it seemed to travel as if finding its 
 
224 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 way. Moths and flying insects fluttering into the 
 beam of light flashed like sparks or fire-flies. 
 
 We found another train waiting for us at a 
 station on the other bank. Here we got into 
 sleeping compartments. I had an American bishop 
 and his friend, a young man, as travelling com- 
 panions. About 6 a.m. the next morning we 
 reached the foot of the hills, where another change 
 was necessary and where breakfast was to be had 
 at the station, after which we packed ourselves and 
 our belongings into the tiny carriages of the little 
 narrow gauge, toy-like train which makes the 
 ascent of 7000 feet to Darjeeling. 
 
 Starting about level, the ascent was quite gradual 
 at first, the line winding through bamboo groves 
 and tea plantations, and as it grows steeper the 
 track twists up in S curves and loops, threading, 
 like a steel snake, through umbrageous woodlands, 
 sometimes following the road, sometimes crossing 
 it. Among the many beautiful trees there was 
 one of frequent occurrence which was new to us. 
 It had something the manner of growth of an ash, 
 but having a silvery bark like a birch, and clusters 
 of large scarlet buds and flowers, without leaves. 
 Some called it the " Forest Flame." Many of the 
 trees were hung with climbing plants, forming 
 lovely tangles and festoons, and through the openings 
 in the woods, here and there, we had glimpses of 
 the plains veiled in the morning haze. Higher and 
 higher the little train carried us, curving so sharply, 
 sometimes, that one could see the little purling 
 engine in front, which had almost the effect, when 
 rounding the sudden curves and loops, of some 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 
 
 225 
 
 grotesque creature trying- to catch its own tail, like 
 a playful kitten or puppy ! 
 
 At intervals the various attitudes attained were 
 
 .4h wlb? 
 
 THE DARJEELING TOY-RAILWAY TRYING TO CATCH ITS OWN TAIL ! 
 
 
 painted on tablets at the side of the rail, or at the 
 little stations. At Siliguri a halt was made for 
 tiffin. Here the Mongolian and Bhutian peasants 
 came up to the railway carriages and offered us inter- 
 esting things in the way of silver rings, and silver 
 ornaments set with turquoise, and large turquoise 
 earrinofs of a fine bold desio-n. The women all 
 wore relic or charm-boxes with lids worked in 
 p 
 
226 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 delicate filigree and set with turquoise, and these 
 were suspended by bead necklaces. Silver 
 chatelaines and other charming" ornaments were 
 shown us, the women carrying the stock-in-trade 
 of jewellery upon their persons. The high cheek- 
 bones and narrow eyes, black hair and long pig-tails 
 of the Mongolian were very marked, the men 
 having quite a Chinese look, with their soft felt, 
 turned-up inverted cup-and-saucer-shaped hats and 
 pig-tails. The women had broad, smiling faces, the 
 effect of which was heightened by a kind of bright 
 brown varnish which made their faces, look as 
 if they had been French polished — perhaps to suit 
 somebody's furniture ? — their hair was intensely 
 black, and they wore two long plaits or pig-tails. 
 
 The huts of the villages were of wood, and the 
 original native roofing was of thin wooden shingles, 
 which harmonised perfectly with the scenery ; but 
 unfortunately corrugated iron was being extensively 
 substituted for roofing purposes, and the old thatch 
 or wooden shingles were frequently patched with it. 
 At Darjeeling it was almost universal, and in 
 consequence the buildings might be described as 
 tin and temporary. Here and there was a fantastic, 
 but generally not tasteful, touch of Germany, or the 
 Swiss border, in the modern villa. Little toy-like 
 dwellines are scattered alontr the mountain-sides in 
 an accidental sort of way, as if they had been upset 
 out of a box, and had stuck here and there among 
 the trees in their fall. 
 
 English suburban names catch the eye — at 
 Darjeeling — such as "Daisy Bank" and "Rose 
 Cottage." The Europeans come out from Calcutta 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 227 
 
 in the hot season to dwell here. The huts of the 
 native people look very frail, almost like card- 
 houses, leaning up against each other on the edges 
 of cliffs, their roofs of ragged matting, straw thatch, 
 or thin wooden shingles, or the corrugated iron 
 aforesaid. Tall, tapering bamboo canes are fre- 
 quently stuck up outside, bearing vertical strips 
 of white cotton or linen cloth, like standards, with 
 lio-ht ta^s of the same fluttering' at intervals from 
 their outer edges. These are said to represent 
 prayers, and are supposed to ward off evil influences 
 
 We put up at "Woodlands" hotel, which has 
 a pretty walk up from the station, lined with fine 
 old trees of the pine kind, very thick and dark, and 
 havino- a slender cone-like form, reminding one of 
 cypresses. These abound all down the mountain- 
 sides, but are now in danger of being thinned too 
 freely. The mountain-sides are intersected with 
 paths, and terraced bridle roads, along which are 
 perched the dwellings, above or below the road. 
 As one rides up one can look almost perpendicularly 
 down upon the tin roofs and into the little gardens, 
 as these paths almost double back on themselves 
 at different heights, as they wind up the hills. 
 
 The manager and proprietor of "Woodlands" 
 was an Italian by birth, but he spoke English like 
 a native. He was one of an expedition which 
 attempted to climb the Kinchin Junga (28,150 feet), 
 a great snow peak of the Himalayas, which is 
 conspicuous from Darjeeling when the clouds dis- 
 close the view of the wonderful snow-clad range. 
 
 He occasionally entertained his guests by a 
 lecture in the evenings, illustrated by photographic 
 
228 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 slides taken on the expedition (in 1905) in which, 
 
 
 CHARACTERS IN A TIBETAN MASQUE, DARJEELING 
 
 however, four of the party lost their lives by losing 
 their footing on a snow precipice. Climbing in 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 229 
 
 the Himalayas seems to be handicapped by the 
 necessity of taking coolies to carry provisions and 
 camp furniture, as the explorer leaves the human 
 world entirely behind him in entering these trackless 
 snow-bound solitudes. 
 
 One evening, just before daylight had quite 
 faded, we witnessed a very curious and remarkable 
 performance in the courtyard of the hotel, lighted 
 by a few lanterns, which, however, rather increased 
 the mystery of the half-light than really added to 
 the illumination of the scene. It was a Tibetan 
 dance or masque. To the sound of tom-toms, 
 which marked the time, a dancer in loose white 
 garments appeared — a man ; he wore a white tunic 
 with a full skirt, and held a sort of white veil up 
 over his head as he moved, and he appeared to 
 have on Mongolian leggings and boots. He danced 
 like a dervish, whirling rapidly round and round, 
 his skirts forming a sort of spiral wheel of drapery 
 about him as he moved. 
 
 This dancer having finished \\\s pas de senl, as a 
 kind of prelude, retired, and was immediately 
 succeeded by another — a fantastic-looking figure 
 also in white, with the Tibetan conical turban, the 
 details of whose costume I could not quite make 
 out, owing to the fitful light, but he appeared in the 
 characteristic loose tunic and leggings and the 
 Chinese-like shoes. His style of dancing was quite 
 different to the dervish, and might be described as 
 a combination pf the jig and the reel. While he 
 was dancing there entered two very grotesque 
 Chinese-looking lions, queer monsters, made up of 
 two people who furnished the four legs — probably 
 
2 3 o INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 a man for the fore-quarters and a boy for the hind- 
 most. Their heads or masks seemed to be each 
 formed of half a tortoise shell, ingeniously enough 
 the openings at the side of the shell being utilised 
 as the sockets of large fierce staring eyes, a large 
 open red mouth, and gleaming rows of pointed 
 white teeth, completing a terrific countenance. 
 Yellow drapery concealed all but the feet, which 
 were clad in some kind of tawny soft leather. 
 These lions were extremely lively, and frisked 
 about, and lashed their tails in a most spirited way, 
 keeping time with the tom-toms through all their 
 wild movements ; as, together with the second 
 dancer, who was, it appeared, the lion-tamer, they 
 went through a very active and energetic dance. 
 This over, each lion lay down one on one side of 
 the ground (there being no stage), and one on the 
 other, facing the audience as they couched. 
 
 Then entered a sort of knight, or warrior, on a 
 red hobby-horse, and the dance was continued by 
 his chasing- the lion-tamer round and round, the 
 latter always eluding his pursuer, and always 
 emphatically repeating by the action of his arms 
 the beat of the tom-toms in a defiant sort of 
 way. 
 
 Six more hobby - horsed riders in different 
 costumes and colours next came in, one after the 
 other, and joined in the pursuit of the lion-tamer. 
 Presently, however, they changed the figure, the 
 red hobby-horse remaining stationary, while the 
 other six formed a sort of quadrille, advancing 
 and retiring, and crossing over, as in the opening 
 figure of "the Lancers." I forget exactly how the 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 231 
 
 lion-tamer employed himself while this proceeded, 
 but I think he must have temporarily subsided, 
 while the hobby-horses kept the attention of the 
 audience. Finally they all joined hands and 
 danced in a ring, raising- a curious kind of chant 
 the while, after which the hobby-horses all marched 
 out in single file, still chanting-. 
 
 Then a peacock (with a skirt) came in, moving 
 in a slow, measured and stately fashion, dancing 
 and bowing in a quaint manner, flapping its wings 
 occasionally ; next it approached one of the 
 couchant lions, who all this while had remained 
 passive, and apparently sleeping, and gave it a 
 sudden and decisive peck, the action being 
 instantly emphasised by the tom-toms. After more 
 genuflexions the peacock finished his dance by 
 giving a similar peck to the other lion, each lion 
 at the touch starting violently and lashing their 
 tails. Then exit the peacock. 
 
 Next appeared, crawling in with a sort of wobble, 
 a turtle, also wearing a skirt which concealed its 
 feet. At its entry the lion-tamer exhibited all the 
 symptoms of comic fear, trying to hide himself from 
 the turtle, and finally as it approached nearer, he 
 threw himself on the ground and wriggled and 
 writhed about in an access of ridiculous terror. 
 Presently, however, whatever had animated the 
 interior of the turtle it vanished unperceived, and 
 the shell lay motionless on the ground. The 
 lion-tamer approaching it apprehensively, but 
 eventually taking up the shell, he danced up to the 
 lions, who sprang to their feet, and then all these 
 whirled about in a wild tempestuous dance to 
 
232 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 double quick time, until the lions, apparently 
 exhausted, both lay down again in the same order 
 as before. Again the troops of hobby-horses 
 entered, and after another spin with the lion-tamer, 
 all marched out, chanting, the beat of the tom-toms 
 gradually growing fainter till they ceased as the 
 company disappeared. 
 
 We had not yet been favoured with a glimpse 
 of the great snow peaks. Kinchin Junga seemed 
 extremely shy, and remained wrapped in impene- 
 trable folds of cloud which rolled over the edges 
 of the narrow hills, or steamed up from the deep 
 valleys, enacting the constant-inconstant drama 
 of cloud and mountain, always a most fascinating 
 spectacle. On January 30th, however, in the 
 morning - , between seven and eight, we were at 
 last rewarded by a beautiful glimpse of the snow 
 peaks of the Himalayas, dominated by that of 
 Kinchin Junga, clear in the golden light of early 
 morning, piercing the turquoise sky, like the vision of 
 some celestial city floating on a sea of roseate cloud. 
 The unusual height of the peaks in the sky surprised 
 the eye, accustomed to see clouds where now were 
 these vast mountains. The delicate modelling- 
 of the snow summits clear and sharp in the 
 sunlight had the effect of making them look much 
 nearer than the intervening valleys and dark pine 
 covered slopes lost in mist and deep shadow, and it 
 was strange to think that one gazed at these snow 
 peaks across a distance of about 45 miles. 
 
 Human dwellings and structures looked flimsv 
 and trifling, no more than the work of ants 
 or spiders, comparatively speaking, but indeed 
 
I 
 
 *■■*■ 
 § 
 
 *& 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 
 
 o 1 1 
 
 Darjeeling has no architecture to boast of. For a 
 region subject to earthquakes great allowances must 
 necessarily be made, but the corrugated iron style 
 
 THE SHY PEAK OF KINCHIN JUNGA 
 
 certainly failed to assert the dignity of man in 
 such a landscape, and the native hut did not 
 look more permanent or substantial than a bird's 
 nest. 
 
 The little town has a central square where there 
 
 
234 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 is a native market. Little low bazaars line the 
 
 A RIDE AT DARJEELING : " UP HILL SPARE ME " 
 
 sides, and the streets, but in the centre the vendors 
 spread out their stock-in-trade on the bare ground. 
 There may be seen turquoises in great quantity, 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 235 
 
 and unset stones of many kinds, and an infinitude 
 of silver rings and ornaments. The best, however, 
 were always offered by the country people and the 
 coolies, and the Bhutian women, who always 
 seemed able to produce any number, and we were 
 followed by quite a little crowd holding out rings 
 and silver ornaments to tempt us, when we went 
 through the market. My wife discovered a pair 
 of green pigeons in a characteristic Indian domed- 
 cao-e made of canes, han^in^ outside one of the 
 native huts, and sent our bearer to negiotate the 
 purchase, and for six rupees they changed hands. 
 The birds travelled with us to Ceylon, and on the 
 steamer homewards till we met the cold weather 
 in the Mediterranean, when the hen bird died, the 
 cock surviving until we reached Italy. They had 
 to be fed upon a sort of meal made from a kind of 
 powdered dried peas, not always easily obtainable. 
 
 There were many interesting walks and rides 
 at Darjeeling. A favourite excursion was to Tiger 
 Hill, a distance of six miles, from where Mount 
 Everest, the highest mountain of the world, can be 
 seen — in fine clear weather, and sunrise is the 
 usual time for it. The modes of progression are 
 by jin-rickshaws or ponies. There are excellent 
 ponies to be had at Woodlands, and we enjoyed the 
 steepest ride we had ever experienced. 
 
 The pig-tailed Mongolian coolies are always on 
 hand in the courtyard of the hotel, waiting for custom 
 in either mode of transport. Palanquins are also used. 
 
 We met here some English friends and fellow- 
 travellers. It was pleasant to fall in with my old 
 Bostonian friend, Mr Louis Prang, who, with Mrs 
 
236 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Prang, were travelling with a party of some twelve 
 Bostonians. 
 
 The alarming accounts of the prevalence of small- 
 pox at Bhutia deterred us from going to see the 
 
 ; o , 
 
 y o i o. 
 
 
 A HAILSTONE CHORUS — DEPARTURE FROM DARJEELING 
 
 Buddhist temple at Bhutia Busti, though the 
 immediate cause was a thunder-storm, which came 
 on just as the rickshaws had been ordered, and 
 stopped our excursion; and being advised to abandon 
 the project for the reason above given we made 
 no second attempt. 
 
CALCUTTA— DARJEELING 237 
 
 Before leaving Darjeeling we were favoured by 
 another clear vision of the snow peaks and Kinchin 
 Junga in all his glory, before breakfast, and I was 
 glad to have been able to secure two drawings as 
 a record of that wonderful view. We departed on 
 the first of February in a hail-storm, walking down 
 to the station in a pelting shower of enormous 
 stones, which rattled around us with a thunder and 
 lightning accompaniment. The hail-stones are 
 so large sometimes in that district, and the storms 
 so violent, that much damage is done. At Wood- 
 lands all the glass windows here on one occasion 
 were broken, we heard ; and also that the stones 
 were known to have been occasionally large 
 enough to kill deer ! 
 
 We were soon on our way, joggling down to the 
 plains again in the squeezy little train, the hail 
 turning to rain lower down, and we were sometimes 
 wrapped in cloud. As we got still lower, however, 
 the sky towards the north-west began to clear, and 
 there was a striking effect as of a great curtain 
 being lifted up, showing the bright sky beyond and 
 the sun shining on the plains. Soon we passed 
 into his light again, and enjoyed clear weather to 
 his setting. 
 
 Reversing in the course of our journey the 
 changes, we proceeded to Sara again, recrossing 
 the Ganges, the search-light producing striking 
 effects as it wandered over the shore and the vessels, 
 picking out its twin white steamer with startling 
 distinctness. We had the morning light over the 
 fruitful plains of Bengal, in which the scarlet flower- 
 ing trees or "forest flame" before spoken of 
 
238 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 looked more wonderful than ever. The thatched 
 huts of the native villages were interesting in shape, 
 and differed from any other local variety we had 
 seen. They were built of bamboo, with curving 
 roof ridges. Groups of these huts were of frequent 
 occurrence ; they stood on raised platforms, inter- 
 spersed with plantains, or date or cocoa palms, the 
 window openings on the inward side only, and 
 under the deep overhanging eaves. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 
 
 A VAILING ourselves of the kind hospitality of 
 -*•*- our friend in Carnac Street, we reposed 
 during the day intending to leave Calcutta again 
 by the night train (Madras Mail) for Madras, our 
 next destination. This was a considerable journey 
 as a glance at the map will show ; in fact it was our 
 longest in India, occupying two nights and two 
 days. 
 
 After some anxious moments in Carnac Street, 
 through our tickorgary not turning up for us at 
 the time ordered, or through some muddling- on the 
 part of our bearer, we eventually got conveyed to 
 Howrah Station. Luckily the train did not start 
 so soon as stated — it never does in India — and we 
 were saved. 
 
 The train proved, however, to be very crowded, 
 and we could only secure a berth each in separate 
 compartments, though there was a small sliding 
 door between the ladies' and the gentlemen's sleeping 
 compartment, through which communication could 
 be made. Four ladies, a baby, and a parrot, and 
 the green pigeons made up the complement in the 
 ladies' part. I had two travelling companions only, 
 a river-steamer captain or engineer on sick leave, 
 going south with his family, and an English officer 
 
240 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 of the Army Medical Service going to some hill 
 station beyond Madras. The former kept himself 
 going with whiskey and soda, of which he freely 
 
 CALCUTTA TO MADRAS — SECTION OF SLEEPER — OR SOMETHING 
 LIKE IT 
 
 invited his fellow travellers to partake. The 
 latter proved to be Capt. J. B. Dalzell Hunter of 
 the 64th pioneers. He was studying Persian, and 
 introduced me to a most interesting book, the 
 "IOD-I-GUL," or "The Rose Necklace," being 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 241 
 
 selections from the Gulistan and auwar-i-suhaite 
 translated into literal English with notes by Adal- 
 at Khan. This was full of delightful stories, and 
 rich with oriental imagery and wisdom. 
 
 Leaving Calcutta in the darkness of night, of 
 course nothing could be seen of the country till 
 next morning when we were approaching Cuttack, 
 when we took " Chota Hazri " — or early light 
 breakfast. A little south of this hills appeared 
 inland reminding one in character and apparent 
 height of our lake country. We passed Poori, 
 the junction for Juggernath, where crowds of 
 pilgrims go, especially at the time of the great 
 festival of Krishna in March, when the image of 
 the god is borne through the town on the famous 
 car, out to a temple in the country. The old 
 story we were told in childhood of the dreadful 
 heathen custom of the natives on such occasions 
 throwing themselves under the wheels of the car 
 of Juggernath has been discredited. Krishna, 
 being a god of love and life, not a destroyer, 
 would not be pleased with human sacrifices, and 
 they would be quite inappropriate. It might be 
 possible, however, that the car, drawn as it is by 
 men with great cables, through the press of pilgrims, 
 might accidentally crush some one fallen in the 
 crowd, and European missionaries may have mis- 
 understood what had really happened, and had 
 misrepresented and exaggerated it. 
 
 There were many new and different types of 
 natives at the stations. We were now on the 
 Bengal- Nagpur Railway, and the native crowds, 
 and groups entering or leaving the train all down 
 
 Q 
 
242 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 the line, were most interesting in character and 
 colour. Pilgrims from Juggernaut bearing small 
 canes back with them as signs of their pilgrimage, 
 Brahmans with red marks like seals on their fore- 
 heads, and others with the triple pronged fork- 
 like mark of Siva in white and red. The men 
 wore their hair lon^ like women, sometimes done 
 up in ample knots at the back of the head, and 
 sometimes hanoqno- down the back. All wore a 
 sort of tight cotton skirt or piece of drapery 
 checquered or patterned in colour wrapped round 
 the loins, and depending from the waist to the 
 feet ; a white loose jacket frequently, surmounted 
 this, so that judging only from the back view, 
 the stranger with European prepossessions as to 
 dress distinctions between the sexes, might have 
 some difficulty in saying which was which, or who 
 was who, especially as the native women frequently 
 wore similar skirts, white bodices, and their hair 
 in knots. It was chiefly the beards that betrayed 
 the gentlemen ; otherwise the equality of the 
 sexes was fairly well established, as to outward 
 appearance at least, in the way that might astonish 
 some of our Western reformers. It is true some 
 of the men, like the ancient Egyptians, wore nothing 
 above the skirt, except perhaps a white scarf on 
 the shoulders, and the field-workers and coolies 
 all down the Coromandel coast wore nothing but 
 white turbans and waist cloths. 
 
 We passed the Silver Lake, really an inlet of the 
 sea nearly surrounded by hills, the train startling 
 large flocks of brown geese from the margin as it 
 passed. Our old friends the white cranes we saw 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 243 
 
 again lower down the line among the marshy pools. 
 Paddy fields in various stages, often under water, 
 
 LADTES OR GENTLEMEN ? (FASHIONS IN SOUTHERN INDIA) 
 
 irrigation wells drawn by oxen, as well as another 
 pattern — like the Hungarian or Egyptian, a walking- 
 beam weighted at one end, the other having a rope 
 attached to the bucket. The Southern Indian 
 
244 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 ones are, however, worked by the natives, generally 
 two, working up and down from the centre, from 
 which the beam swings, making it dip and rise 
 again with bucket, the men steadying themselves 
 by upright bamboos fixed each side, sometimes 
 chanting a sone to mark the time and enable them 
 to move together. 
 
 Groves of palms were passed and pyramidal 
 hills, bringing the same suggestion of Egypt 
 we had had before, on the way to Chitorgarh. 
 There was no doubt about getting further south as 
 the temperature was much higher, the thermometer 
 registering 75° to 8o° and this was February 4, 
 whereas only two days before we had been shiver- 
 ing over a fire at Darjeeling ! In the burning sun we 
 could see the dark figures in white turbans and 
 waist cloths, coolies on the railway line, and 
 ploughmen in the fields toiling in the heat. We 
 stopped for breakfast at Berhampore. In the 
 district from here to Vizianagram there was former- 
 ly a flourishing silk weaving industry among the 
 natives. " All gone now," said a bright-looking 
 European official in white drill and topi who 
 entered our compartment. From what he told us 
 further, it seems that this industry declined for 
 very obvious causes — because the raw silk, the 
 very material upon which it subsisted, was exported 
 and consequently the occupation of the native hand- 
 loom weavers was gone. 
 
 At Waltair, one passenger left, but our com- 
 partment was kept full as another immediately 
 succeeded him and all four berths were occupied 
 on the second night. One got more or less 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 245 
 
 broken sleep, but perhaps more than might be 
 expected. 
 
 At Bapatia next morning- there was chota hazri, 
 or early tea, ready, and it was very welcome. At 
 Bitragunta there was a halt for breakfast. As we 
 approached Madras, late in the afternoon, we came 
 by lovely groves of palms, quite dark thick forests 
 of them, with pools of water among them in which 
 water lilies bloomed. Green parroquets decorated 
 the telegraph wires, sitting in rows much as the 
 swallows do in England in the autumn. The 
 telegraph wires all over India are however a 
 favourite resting perch with a variety of birds, 
 and quick an observer may get a good notion of 
 the variety of species in Indian Ornithology by 
 noticing the many kinds of birds which may be 
 seen in such positions, clearly silhouetted against 
 the sky. 
 
 We arrived at the Beach Station, Madras, about 
 five o'clock on February 4, relieved to have reached 
 the end of our long journey. Hotel touts here 
 may be described as active and strong on the wing. 
 We eventually squeezed ourselves into a tickagary 
 with our light baggage, and in spite of the presence 
 of Moonsawmy — or perhaps in colusion with him 
 — an officious native o-uide mounted the box and 
 offered us information as to the public buildings 
 we passed on the way to the hotel. The Prince 
 of Wales's was full, but the proprietor advised us 
 of another not far off, known as the Castle, which 
 had formerly been the pavilion or palace of a native 
 prince, and was a large two-storied yellow washed 
 building with colonnades on the ground Moor, and 
 
246 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 extensive terraces on to which the rooms opened 
 out, on the first floor. These terraces were pro- 
 tected by a parapet which took the form of low 
 battlements, whence possibly the hotel derived its 
 name. There was a pleasant garden shaded by 
 trees around the building, walled in from the road, 
 and havingr entrance eates. Here we found 
 agreeable rooms and plenty of space, without 
 oppressive luxury or comfort, and as cool as might 
 be expected, if it is ever cool anywhere in Madras ? 
 The hotel was under English management, and 
 photographs of familiar places at Torquay and on 
 the Cornish coast hung in our salon. ■ Mosquito 
 curtains told their usual tale, being generally a 
 necessity in India, but are more particularly so at 
 Madras. 
 
 On the drive from the station we passed Fort 
 St George which dates from 1680, and is the only 
 building of any historic interest. There were big 
 Law Courts in a pretentious Italian Gothic style 
 after the manner of modern Bombay architecture. 
 The British traders and their stores and posters 
 were in evidence, and " summer sales " ooinor strong 
 at the drapers, attracting smartly dressed English 
 ladies in their motors and dog-carts. The streets 
 were broad, and there was plenty of space every- 
 where. The hotels and bungalows were surrounded 
 by large gardens, and abundant trees — palms being 
 very plentiful. 
 
 It was pleasant to hear the clear notes of birds 
 in the early morning, and of course we had the 
 usual kite and crow chorus. In the evening there 
 was a children's party going on at a pavilion in the 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 247 
 
 garden, and popular European waltz tunes came 
 from a piano. 
 
 The temperature in our rooms ranged from 75 to 
 8o° and we felt anything but energetic. We had, 
 moreover, in the afternoon an interesting drive out 
 to the Adyar Library, the headquarters of the 
 Theosophical Society built by Colonel Olcott who 
 was now lying ill there. Having had a telegram 
 from Mrs Annie Besant in the morning, a visit was 
 arranged. She could not leave the Colonel, as he 
 was then in a dying state. Our road lay between 
 beautiful groves of palms of various kinds, mostly 
 cocoa palms, and native villages, the huts of one 
 story, long and low, and roofed with ridge tiles of 
 a delightful bronze colour, the tiles, probably sun- 
 baked, beine doubled and trebled over and under 
 alternately. The roads were covered with a fine 
 dust of a rich reddish-brown tint, almost coffee 
 colour, and this tint varied with the full red and 
 brio-ht white of the dresses of the natives, and their 
 dark skins, and relieved by the clear light green of 
 the paddy fields, and the gold and green of the 
 palms, in the warm evening sunlight, made a fine 
 harmony. 
 
 We passed a Hindu temple and a tank, and 
 crossed a bridge over the broad river (Adyar) and 
 on the other side presently drove under an ancient 
 fragment of a stone carved gateway, and so through 
 the wooded grounds to the Adyar Library, a new 
 building of red brick and red sandstone of semi- 
 Hindu type. 
 
 A lady clad in white conducted me to a large 
 upper chamber very lofty and long in proportion 
 
248 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 to its width, furnished more or less like a European 
 drawing- room, with chairs and couches, but high on 
 the wall at intervals were various religious symbols, 
 in white plaster relief, among which I noticed the 
 Gammadion and the Serpent and the Tree. There 
 was a pretty view over the river from the windows, 
 on the side. 
 
 Presently Mrs Besant entered. She was robed 
 in white. It was the sari dress of the native women 
 in some fine soft material, with embroidered borders 
 also white. Her hair too had whitened since I 
 knew her in London many years before. We 
 spoke of the old days — of Cunninghame Graham, 
 G. Bernard Shaw, and Sidney Webb. Mrs Besant, 
 once an active and ardent socialist, seemed to have 
 quite removed herself into another world, strikingly 
 different from the one of strife and protest in which 
 she with her wonderful eloquence had been a potent 
 influence, and was now devoting her life to inculcat- 
 ing the principles of Theosophy and educational 
 work among the young Hindus. Her idea was to 
 gather the best elements out of all religions, and to 
 unite them in one comprehensive creed, the key- 
 note of which, as I understood, is universal brother- 
 hood. In her schools she desired to cultivate the 
 higher side of the native Hindu religion, refining- 
 and spiritualising, though by no means European- 
 izing, but preserving all native characteristics in 
 dress and courteous manners, and as far as possible 
 preventing any Western contamination. 
 
 In the great na U on the ground floor the first 
 thing that catches the visitor's eye is the text 
 inscribed aloft on the entablature in larg-e carved 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 249 
 
 characters — " There is no religion hio-her than 
 truth." 
 
 On the walls of this hall, also, are carved in stone 
 another series of symbols, treated as a series of 
 panels in relief, and among these it was interesting 
 to find Mr Holman Hunt's well-known picture 
 " The Light of the World," reproduced in relief by 
 a native sculptor. In a recess in the opposite 
 wall was a life-size seated portrait of Madame 
 Blavatsky in marble. It was intended to place a 
 statue of Colonel Alcott standing beside her, Mr 
 Besant told me. His loss will be a severe one 
 for the Society. 
 
 We drove back by way of the Triplicane or 
 Mohammedan quarter — the native bazaar, a brilliant 
 scene of colour and movement. On the way we 
 passed several " Toddy Tappers," as they are called, 
 at work on the palm and stems. These are natives 
 who extract a sort of spirit from the palm, and who, 
 clad only in white turbans and waist-cloths, climb 
 the tall, smooth columnar stems of the cocoa palm, 
 by a curious method — a sort of loop of cane which 
 encircles the upper part of the body, and hooks 
 round the tree stem. This they shift in jerks as 
 they climb, using their legs and feet in the usual way 
 as a grip on the stem. We noticed the small, gourd- 
 like bottles attached to some of the trees, which are 
 placed so as to catch the juice from incisions made 
 in the bark. The spirit made from this juice is 
 sold in the bazaars. 
 
 The jin-rickshaw is much in use in Madras as a 
 means of locomotion, and some of them will even 
 carry two people at once, though this seems heavy 
 
250 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 for one boy. The native boys who draw them 
 are, however, active enough and but little 
 encumbered with clothes, and are always eager 
 
 MADRAS — A JIX-RICKSHAW MADE FOR TWO 
 
 for custom. Mount Road in the main thoroughfare 
 in the European quarter, and here all the principal 
 shops and stores are situated. These as buildings 
 were mostly pretentious and tasteless. St George's 
 cathedral was a semi-classic church with a pointed 
 spire. The Post Office had red-tiled gabled spires 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 251 
 
 of a more or less Swiss type, with iron crestings, 
 and arcaded balconies on each story. One sees 
 relics of eighteenth century semi-classic taste in 
 some of the older houses with plastered walls yellow 
 and white-washed. The vast gardens which broke 
 the continuity of the buildings, and often isolated 
 them, and the pleasant avenue-like character of the 
 main roads, always lined with shady trees, made 
 up for many architectural short-comings, and again 
 suggested spacious ideas for a garden city. 
 
 At the head of Mount Road was the Munro 
 statue where other roads diverged — a bronze statue 
 by Chantry of a gentleman in a cloak pointing — 
 probably to indicate his line of policy, though, 
 more literally, he might be taken to be showing 
 the stranger what a long way he was from 
 Madras. The electric trams are no doubt useful 
 as the distances are enormous and dusty, walking 
 being impossible for Europeans, as they would 
 soon be covered with a powdering of fine red 
 dust. 
 
 We paid a visit one evening to the Botanic 
 Gardens where we saw the Victoria Regia (which 
 is usually associated with the inside of a hot- 
 house at Kew) growing in the open on a lake. 
 There were beautiful palms here and many 
 varieties of trees. One we noted was covered 
 with white blossoms which looked and smelled like 
 orange or lemon flowers, and had green fruit of 
 an egg shape, hanging from its branches. 
 
 Madras we found too oppressive and inervating 
 to stay long, and so on February 8th we departed 
 for Tanjore, rising at 4.30 a.m. to catch an early 
 
252 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 train, and were only able to snatch a hasty hazri, 
 and get into a belated carriage and drive through 
 the gloom of the early morning — or rather by the 
 dim lio-ht of the waning moon to the station for the 
 5.45 train South. 
 
 Our compartment was shared at different stages 
 of the journey by British officers. A Babu with a 
 quantity of baggage, and three German Mission 
 people — a gentleman and two ladies with still more 
 baggage, who filled it pretty well up to Tanjore. 
 
 The country seemed very productive, and on each 
 side of the line most of the way were large crops 
 of paddy, much of it under water. In many places, 
 too, the natives were ploughing in the water. 
 The crops in some of the fields (or rather pastures 
 separated by low banks of earth) were a brilliant 
 light green, in others the grain was ripe, and was 
 being reaped with hooks by the natives, while 
 further on they would be threshing and stacking 
 the straw. The method of threshing out the o-rain 
 was primitive. A man would hold a loose sheaf in 
 his hand and beat it hard, several times in succes- 
 sion, on the ground ; this shook out the grain, and 
 then he would cast the straw that remained to the 
 men who were stacking it near by. They made 
 low wide stacks straight on to the bare earth. The 
 women gathered up the paddy as it was reaped. 
 
 We passed more fine groves of cocoa palms, 
 distant hills were visible inland here and there, and 
 there were generally large sheets of water each 
 side of the line, but the rivers which we frequently 
 crossed were almost dry. 
 
 The crowds of natives at all the stations were 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 
 
 jo 
 
 again very interesting". The men generally wear- 
 ing their hair long and done up in knots. In fact 
 the men had finer and more luxuriant heads of hair 
 than the women, whose hair was usually short and 
 fuzzy. Sometimes the men had their foreheads 
 and temples shaved, and let their hair grow freely 
 at the back. Caste marks were painted very 
 boldly and distinctly on the dark foreheads. The 
 sacred mark of Siva occurring most frequently — 
 a red vertical stroke in the centre between two 
 white lines radiating from the nose. 
 
 The men also wore the coloured skirt tightly 
 wrapped about their middle and falling to their 
 feet, the upper parts of their bodies being left bare, 
 except for a loose white scarf, like a towel, thrown 
 over their shoulders. The coolies and agriculturists 
 wore nothing but turbans and waist-cloths. The 
 women invariably wore silver nose rings, earings 
 and anklets, and the Sari dress. Mahomedans 
 seemed to be very scarce in these parts. As to 
 colour, reds and whites prevailed in the dresses. 
 Sometimes the vivid crude (magenta) aniline pink 
 which has become unfortunately too common in 
 India was to be seen. A favourite blend was red 
 and yellow in the women's Sari dresses, in stripes, 
 or crossed tartan-wise. 
 
 Light cakes, bananas, and painted toys and 
 other trifles were hawked about at the stations, the 
 sellers uttering curious cries and chants. Everv 
 station had its tap of water, and always a thirsty 
 throng of natives from their crowded compart- 
 ments would be seen clusterino- around it fillino- 
 
 ° o 
 
 their bright brass drinking cups, which they 
 
254 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 invariably carry, quenching their thirst and wash- 
 ing themselves. 
 
 Apropos of the refreshment stations, I find a note 
 in my journal as to what appears to have been a 
 particularly unsatisfactory Tiffin at Villuparam, for 
 which we were induced to pay i rupee 8 annas in 
 advance, but of which " only a little currie was really 
 eatable." How much more sensible (perchance not 
 so profitable) it would be to give travellers the 
 chance of ordering from the carte, and paying 
 according to a fixed tariff. Travellers are by no 
 means always able to eat the provided meal, and 
 need milk and easily digestible foods, and simple 
 cookery. The hard meat, stringy fowl, and messed 
 up dishes usually offered are very inappropriate, if 
 not positively injurious food. Simply cooked sound 
 fresh food is a great want at hotels and railway 
 stations all over India. 
 
 We arrived at Tanjore between 6 and 7 in the 
 evening. There were sleeping and refreshment 
 rooms at the station. The station-master met us 
 and said that a room would be vacant at 9 o'clock, 
 
 as Lord and Lady ? who then occupied them 
 
 were leaving by the 9 p.m. mail. In the meantime 
 we had a ladies' waiting-room to ourselves and could 
 dine during the interval. The sleeping rooms 
 were across a bridge on the other side of the line 
 in a new terraced building, with an English house- 
 keeper sort of woman to receive us and our rupees. 
 There was quite an up-to-date porcelain bath, but, 
 on examination, one tap was cut off, and there was 
 no water in the other ! There were spring beds 
 and mosquito curtains, and it was a fairly cool room. 
 
TANJORE— THE GREAT GATE OF THE TEMPLE 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 255 
 
 The system here was to charge 1 rupee 8 annas 
 for a room for the first twelve hours, and if occupied 
 for longer then the rate was higher. 
 
 Hearing there was a good Dak bungalow near 
 by, we decided to take up our quarters there the 
 next morning and found it quite nice, cool, quiet, 
 old-fashioned and unpretentious, and their being no 
 other travellers we had it all to ourselves. From 
 what the native in charge said it appeared that the 
 new station rooms rather injured his custom, as 
 travellers now mostly stayed there. 
 
 Our exploration of Tanjore commenced by driv- 
 ing to the Old Fort within which stands the great 
 Hindu Temple dedicated to Siva. The great 
 gateway is approached by a bridge over a moat, 
 then dry, which surrounds the Fort. The outer 
 gate is plastered and is crowned by a row of figures 
 of deities in niches which are brightly coloured. 
 The great gateway is of yellow sandstone and is 
 richly carved — a mass of figures and detail. The 
 imaee of the sfod Siva and his various incarnations 
 constantly appears. Various legends connected 
 with these are painted on the walls of the court at 
 the back of an arcade, and are exceedingly curious. 
 The great Nandi, or sacred Bull of Siva, a 
 colossal image of a recumbent Bull, richly orna- 
 mented with chains and bells around his neck, is 
 seen on a pedestal approached by steps in the 
 centre of the court, under a pillared and decorated 
 canopy. When we saw it first a magnificent peacock 
 had perched himself upon the head of the bull, his 
 tail drooping over its neck. The bull was carved 
 out of a fine black stone ; really syenite, but much 
 
256 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 darkened by libations of oil with which the image 
 is constantly anointed. It has all the character of 
 the type of zebu in this district. We saw its living 
 prototype in a street of Tanjore — a splendid black 
 bull (short-horned) lying down with its yoke com- 
 panion, a white one, equally noble looking. 
 
 The pillared front of the small temple close by 
 was richly coloured, and on a sort of frieze was 
 a series of portraits of the reigning family of 
 Maharajahs. 
 
 The Temple guide spoke a little English, but 
 occasionally would stop for want of words, but we 
 generally gathered his meaning, and he seemed 
 unusually intelligent. 
 
 Ganesha, the elephant god (of generation) fre- 
 quently appeared among the others, Siva and 
 Parvati being the chief. One of the scenes 
 painted on the wall of the arcade, already spoken 
 of, represented the wedding of Siva and Parvati, 
 who stood, hand in hand, with a tree in the middle 
 — like Adam and Eve. Amono- the Quests at this 
 wedding were represented two giants, one whose 
 appetite seemed to know no limit, while the thirst 
 of the other was unquenchable. The first was 
 shown devouring all kinds of food, and to express 
 the drinking capacity of the other a stream of water 
 full of fish was flowing into the mouth of the other. 
 These were very primitive paintings, but expressive. 
 The figures were drawn in black outline and filled 
 in with flat tints. At the gate of the Temple there 
 were drawings on the white-washed wall in thick 
 outline in Indian red, in quite a different style and 
 no doubt of a much later date. A lar^e number of 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 257 
 
 Lingams were shown in rows placed together in 
 one corner of the court, and there were many 
 Lino-am shrines in the arcade besides. Here and 
 there was colouring on the carved figures, but, as a 
 rule, the elaborately carved pagodas were left in 
 yellow sandstone, which had blackened where 
 exposed to the weather, and it may have been that 
 colour had been worn off. 
 
 The later temple (dating from about the fifteenth 
 century) had remarkably delicate carving on its 
 lower courses, the edges being frequently pierced. 
 At the steps of the entrance an elephant, carved on 
 each side, formed the balustrade, each having two 
 trunks, one curling inwards and holding a man in 
 its coil, and the second extended and terminating 
 in a volute at the end of the steps on each side. 
 
 There was a noticeable point, as giving further 
 evidence of primitive wooden construction, in the 
 carved detail under the eaves of the great temple 
 where there was a sort of intersected lattice work 
 faithfully rendered in stone. It recalled the screens 
 of bamboo and matting, commonly used in this 
 district, added on to the edges of the tiled roofs in 
 front of the huts and bungalows as extra shields 
 from the sun, and this carved stone lattice work 
 may have been derived from the wood work and 
 the cane and wicker structure of the primitive 
 buildings which preceded the use of stone. 
 
 In the court of the great temple, in a shed (roofed 
 with corrugated iron I regret to say), we saw the 
 cars used for the procession through the city, on 
 the occasion of the great annual festival in March, 
 which appears to be similar to the Juggernaut. 
 
 R 
 
258 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 The high pyramidal canopied roof, supported on 
 columns, was carved like the pagoda of a temple, 
 which, in fact, it represented. The image of the 
 god being placed within. The car would be drawn 
 by a pair of oxen. 
 
 We saw afterwards a religious procession of the 
 kind passing down the principal street. Two men 
 carried a banner in front, a piece of red cloth sus- 
 pended between two poles. After them came a 
 band playing tom-toms and hautboys, such as we 
 heard at Benares. Then came the car drawn by 
 two zebus, with its high pagoda, accompanied by 
 priests in white robes, with long hair and marks on 
 their foreheads. 
 
 It struck me as remarkable how closely the dress 
 of the native men here resembles that of the people 
 of ancient Egypt as pictured on the monuments. 
 Indeed, the Hindu pantheon itself suggests a 
 certain kinship to the symbolic Egyptian religion, 
 embracing, as it appears to do, the deification of 
 all natural forces and types of animals and birds. 
 The Hindus have their elephant god, their monkey 
 god, and their parrot god, for instance, each figured 
 with the animal's head but otherwise human, just 
 as the Egyptians imaged their hawk-headed, cat- 
 headed, and other deities. The ox of Osiris, too, 
 seems to present a parallel to the sacred bull of Siva. 
 
 We next visited the tank in the citadel, noted 
 for the purity of its water, but it looked muddy 
 enough we thought, and felt no inclination to test 
 the sample offered us by a native in a cup. 
 
 Near the tank was a very plain. Christian church, 
 dating from about the end oi the 1 8th century or 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 259 
 
 the beginning of the 19th, absolutely bare of orna- 
 ment or symbol, with the exception of a small 
 mural monument at the west end — a bas-relief in 
 marble by Flaxman, in memory of one Schwartz, a 
 British missionary. Not, however, a very good 
 specimen of the sculptor's work, and looking as if 
 it had been rather done to order, and though it 
 had Flaxman's characteristic broad simple treat- 
 ment, was rather over smooth and " goody-goody" 
 in expression — a missionary looking benevolent on 
 his death-bed, clerical attendant and probable suc- 
 cessor at his side, group of good boys in front, and 
 row of turbaned Indians, presumably converts, on 
 the other side of the bed. 
 
 It was curious to see this bare, gaunt, puritanical- 
 looking church, planted almost in the shadow of the 
 great Hindu temple with its frank nature worship, 
 pantheism, and riot of symbolism and imagery. 
 
 From the citadel and the temples we drove over 
 the bridge across the river into the city to see the 
 palace of the Maharajah. Not a very beautiful 
 building — a big, rambling, yellow-washed pile, 
 looking rather untidy and neglected. In the guard- 
 room at the entrance gate, there was a portrait of 
 the father of the present prince. Through a cor- 
 ridor, the walls of which were painted with quaint 
 figures, we reached a small chamber, open on one 
 side, but painted on the three other walls with large 
 equestrian portraits of three Maharajahs — grand- 
 father, father, and son. They were in profile, very 
 richly dressed, and on finely caparisoned horses, 
 with hunting dogs — the dogs running underneath 
 the horses. These mural portraits were painted in 
 
260 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 tempera, apparently, on the white-washed wall, 
 and had flaked off in places, but they were good 
 characteristic Indian work, and reminded one a 
 little in treatment of European mediaeval design, 
 such as may be seen in Burgundian tapestries of 
 the end of the fifteenth century. 
 
 We next came to a small court where we saw 
 the Durbar Hall, divided from the court by an open 
 colonnade. Inside was a miscellaneous collection 
 of objects — portraits, rather dreary ones of the 
 Maharajahs and favourite hounds, some on very 
 dilapidated canvasses with holes through them — 
 old fashioned French lithographs of the early 
 "fifties," much fly-blown; a handsome palanquin, 
 with dragons' heads on the ends of the poles ; 
 another one was carved, and plated with ivory. 
 There was also a beautiful ivory fan, of a large 
 size and peculiar shape, probably to be used as a 
 punka. Then, too, there was a bronze bust of 
 Lord Nelson, presented by some English lady to 
 a former Maharajah, and her own work. Then we 
 saw the library, which contained quite a large collec- 
 tion of old-fashioned English books — in eighteenth 
 and early nineteenth century bindings — such as a 
 set of The Spectator, Hayley's Poems, Burns, Scott, 
 etc., and also an extensive library of Hindu and 
 Tamil manuscripts. These were peculiar in form, 
 and consisted of long; oblong- sheets of a roughish 
 sort of paper, rather resembling papyrus in quality, 
 protected by thin boards on loose covers of thin 
 wood, secured round the middle by ties. These 
 covers were sometimes lacquered on their outsides 
 in various designs. On one I noticed the typical 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 261 
 
 design representing Vishnu, with the lotus flower 
 springing from his navel which contains the figure 
 of Buddha, Laksmi looking on in wonder. These 
 figures were drawn in black outline on gold, the 
 gold high-toned with coloured lacquers. A smell 
 of naphtha or some such moth antidote pervaded 
 the place. 
 
 We were then shown the armoury, where there 
 were some rather showy sporting guns of English 
 make, bearing the name of Mortimer & Co., and 
 elaborately chased. There were very vile portraits 
 of King Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra. 
 
 After this we saw another Durbar Hall — the 
 Maharana's — adorned with more dreary portraits of 
 the family and a few stuffed birds. The most 
 curious thing was a real skeleton in a real cup- 
 board, side by side with a skeleton beautifully 
 imitated in ivory. There they hung inside a plain 
 ookinor like a hano-ino- ward- 
 
 wardrobe ! What 
 
 hung- 
 
 there 
 
 upright cupboard, 
 robe — -but what a 
 needed no robes ! 
 
 Down the main street of Tanjore there were 
 placed at intervals ^ery curious and richly carved 
 wooden pagodas, apparently very old, upon cars 
 with massive wheels of wood, somewhat like rude 
 ox-cart wheels, some of them being discs. These 
 were probably used in processions at the festivals. 
 
 The houses were generally low, and of only one 
 story, with the low-pitched ridge-tiled roofs as at 
 Madras, the porches and raised terraces on plat- 
 forms in front forming the shops, being further 
 protected from the sun by lean-to extra roofs or 
 screens of matting and bamboo, sometimes sup- 
 
262 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 ported on uprights of cocoa palm stems. Occa- 
 sionally these screens are supported by growing 
 trees which spread their foliage above. Pumpkins 
 and gourds are often grown upon the tiled roofs, 
 and have a charming effect with their wanderino- 
 stems, green leaves, and golden spheres of fruit 
 scattered over the rich brown tiles. 
 
 The roads are deep in red-brown dust as at 
 Madras, and there is a continual traffic of little 
 covered tongas drawn by little trotting zebus in 
 single harness. We had a broken-down victoria 
 to drive in, and a fearful old crock of a horse, given 
 to jibbing and really not fit to drive. The carriage 
 seats were sliding: ones, too ! 
 
 Tanjore spreads itself over a large area of open 
 spaces, interspersed with trees, gardens, and tanks. 
 The water is abundant, and washing operations 
 frequent. There is no coherent plan about the 
 town, the streets wandering about into open space, 
 and leaving off in a casual sort of way. There was 
 a considerable market going on in provisions, and 
 there was a silk-weaving quarter where may be 
 seen the native weavers stretching long threads of 
 silk on bamboo frames the whole length of the 
 street, and winding it off on to wheels — our 
 carriage nearly collided with one in a narrow 
 street. The raw silk is often wound round 
 short staves. 
 
 We visited a weaver's shop, and were shown 
 some hand-woven silk saris, brocaded with silver 
 thread, the silver being turned into gold by some 
 colouring process. A dress of ten yards can be 
 bought of this beautiful material for 24 rupees. 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 263 
 
 Red and purple are the principal colours, and 
 these, with the gold thread woven in border 
 designs of elephants, horses and peacocks, have 
 a very gorgeous effect. 
 
 European influence seems to have declined in 
 Tanjore, although there are numerous Christian 
 missions about. What strikes the unprejudiced 
 spectator is the extreme unsuitability of any modern 
 western type of Protestant Christianity, with all 
 that it involves to the native mind, to say nothing 
 of climate and habit. 
 
 Western influence, it is true, asserts itself to the 
 eye, at least, in the form of an ugly clock tower, 
 and we passed " The Tanjore Union Club," where 
 we saw native gentlemen in their cool, white, loose 
 clothing playing lawn tennis in a well laid-out 
 court. But the life of the mass of the people goes 
 on unchanged as it has done for a<?es. 
 
 In driving through the town we saw many little 
 white-washed temples among the native houses 
 their richly-carved pagodas rising above the low 
 brown tiled roofs. At the doors are quaint paint- 
 ings of elephants or tigers, and the white walls of 
 the shops and dwellings are frequently ornamented 
 in the same way with curious figures, among which 
 occurs not unfrequently the English soldier with a 
 dragoon's helmet and jack-boots. Outside a liquor 
 shop I saw, painted rather boldly in red outline, a 
 European lady and gentleman refreshing them- 
 selves with wine-glasses in their hands. The lady's 
 costume reproduced the rather fussy fashion of 
 twenty-five or thirty years ago, the frills and 
 furbelows quite carefully worked out with the 
 
264 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Indian love of detail, but somehow the general 
 effect was rather Elizabethan than Victorian. 
 
 In passing along one of the streets we heard a 
 sound of tom-toms, and presently saw approaching 
 on a zebu cart a large theatrical poster painted 
 on the outer sides of two large boards leaning 
 together, tent-wise, on the cart. These bore 
 announcements in Hindustani and Arabic, with 
 pictures of exciting scenes — Rajahs flourishing 
 scimitars over people, and so forth. Natives 
 walked alongside the cart distributing pink bills 
 of the performances printed in Arabic, while the 
 tom-toms attracted attention to the forthcoming 
 show. 
 
 In the evening we drove to the theatre, accom- 
 panied by our bearer. We reached an open 
 ground outside the town ; it was rather dark, but 
 we saw a row of lights in front of us, and heard the 
 sound of tom-toms. The old horse jibbed and 
 would not go further, so we left the carriage, and 
 Moonsawmy conducted us to some temporary 
 structures of matting and bamboo, where tickets 
 were sold. One rupee secured a chair in the front 
 row. The theatre was a large, tent-like structure, 
 with plastered piers supporting a roof of matting. 
 The floor was of earth, the common ground, in fact, 
 upon which the back rows squatted. The stage 
 was also of earth, raised about three or four feet, 
 the front being painted in broad red and white 
 vertical stripes. The footlights were ordinary oil 
 lamps, clustered in groups. The audience was 
 entirely native (besides ourselves, who were the 
 only Europeans present). Some sat close up 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 265 
 
 alongside the stage on raised steps of earth. Dark 
 draperies hung at the sides of the proscenium, and 
 there was a coarsely-painted drop scene, of the kind 
 
 ,J )) -ih 
 
 TANJORE — NATIVE THEATRE — HOUSE FULL. PERFORMANCE FROM 
 9 P.M. TILL 2 A.M. — BUT WE DIDN'T STOP TO SEE IT THROUGH 
 
 familiar in third-rate provincial theatres and music- 
 halls at home. 
 
 The first scene apparently represented a suburban 
 street in the European quarter of an Indian town ; 
 at least there was a square towered church in it, 
 ugly enough, although some high-pitched gables 
 
266 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 rather suggested suburban England. A road 
 in very acute perspective ran through the 
 centre of the scene, which might, after all, 
 have been bought from some European travelling 
 theatre. 
 
 The curtain raiser was of a sort of operatic, 
 conventional courtship motive, and consisted of a 
 musical dialogue between a young lady and gentle- 
 man of uncertain country, costume, and period. 
 The girl was badly dressed in a white muslin 
 frock, with a little red silk waistband, and a 
 tinsel coronet or tiara on her head. She kept 
 her eyes on the ground the whole time, and 
 moved stiffly and shyly ; her action, as well as 
 that of the oentleman, beinor rather suggestive 
 of marionettes. 
 
 The lady began by singing, each strophe or 
 couplet being repeated or answered by an anti- 
 strophe from a chorus concealed behind the scenes, 
 to the accompaniment of tom-toms. The little 
 wooer presently appeared (also a girl), dressed in a 
 cap of tinsel, a tunic of black velvet trimmed with 
 silver tinsel, and breeches of the same, with brown 
 hose or boots. He also began singing strophes, 
 which were responded to or repeated by the chorus, 
 and the lady replied in the same way. Whenever 
 the lover made any advances the lady repelled 
 them, and, after each of her sung speeches, crossed 
 over to the opposite side of the stage, the lover 
 doing the same. After a long course of this mono- 
 tonous question and answer, sing-song business, 
 they finally came to terms, and stood singing 
 together, the lover with his arm round the lady's 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 267 
 
 shoulders. A harmonium, playing at the wings, 
 assisted the tom-toms. 
 
 The piece de resistance next began. The first 
 scene was a room of state in a Rajah's palace. 
 The Rajah and his grand vizier, and an old priest 
 or soothsayer in a turban and Indian dress, were 
 the characters. The Rajah was a white man, of a 
 rather Irish cast of countenance. He was dressed 
 in black and silver, having wonderful silver spangles 
 in circular patches as big as dinner plates down the 
 front of his trousers. He wore a sabre at his side, 
 and he was seated on a throne mounted on several 
 steps, and each step was decorated by a large 
 odobe of silvered Bohemian o-lass. The vizier was 
 attired in a similar way, but not quite so gorgeous 
 as the kino-. 
 
 From our bearer's interpretation it appeared that 
 the Rajah, or king, who commenced chanting in a 
 most doleful and monotonous way, was in trouble 
 for want of an heir to the throne, and consulted the 
 turbaned old gentleman about it, who gave his 
 advice at considerable length. 
 
 The next scene showed the interior of a temple ; 
 an image of the sacred bull was there, and a black 
 man, clad only in a waist cloth, was officiating, 
 apparently as priest. He was also evidently 
 regarded as a comic actor by the audience, and it 
 was rather curious to observe that his obvious 
 burlesque of some native religious observances 
 were received with laughter. He seemed to put 
 the Rajah, the vizier, and the soothsayer, who now 
 entered, through their religious paces, waving a 
 brush over them and putting garlands round their 
 
268 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 necks, uttering curious gibberish the while, with 
 extravagant action, which seemed vastly to amuse 
 the audience. 
 
 The next scene showed the Rajah seated again 
 in his palace, and to him entered a troop of zenanas 
 to announce the joyful news of the birth of an heir ; 
 but after they had departed with many salaams, 
 something seemed to go wrong, and the Rajah 
 began his doleful plaint again. The soothsayer 
 and the vizier were again consulted, and both had 
 a good deal to say, but matters did not seem to 
 mend much, and the scene promising to be inter- 
 minably long, we felt we had had about as much of 
 the drama as we could do with, and hearing, more- 
 over, that the performance would continue until 
 2 a.m., having commenced at nine, we left Moon- 
 sawmy to sit it out, after he had found us our 
 carriage. 
 
 The next day we had another drive through the 
 city and its surroundings, reaching a pleasant 
 region of palm-groves, and lakes where buffaloes 
 were enjoying a bath. They lie in the water quite 
 deeply, w T ith often only their heads out or the ridges 
 of their backs showing. 
 
 At the bungalow various native pedlars and 
 travelling merchants came up with their bundles, 
 and, as we sat under the verandah, they would 
 untie these and spread out their wares before us. 
 These were generally new silver and copper re- 
 pousse dishes and bowls, samples of the craft of 
 the Tanjore district, but not good, being vulgar 
 and mechanical in workmanship, although repeat- 
 ing traditional patterns and representations of the 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 269 
 
 chief deities of the Hindu pantheon. Some of 
 these were embossed in silver, or rather were partly 
 silvered over the copper, leaving bright copper 
 in parts, but they had rather a flashy and tasteless 
 appearance. The best things were the small 
 antique bronzes and brass objects — bulls, horses, 
 birds, peacocks, lamps, and curious shaped vessels, 
 and many of these were highly interesting. A pair 
 of bronze stirrups I acquired were charmingly 
 designed, and showed delicate design and work- 
 manship. 
 
 In the town they make a kind of brass standard 
 lamp, in various sizes, having a moulded stem sup- 
 porting a shallow vessel for the oil, with niches 
 from four inches, the brass image of a cock is usually 
 placed at the top as a sort of finial. The parts are 
 made to unscrew like the well-known antique 
 Roman lamp which, in general design and struc- 
 ture, this Tanjore lamp strongly recalled. Some, 
 indeed, were terminated by ring handles just like 
 the Roman ones. 
 
 We had been fairly comfortable at the Dak 
 bungalow, and the two brothers who kept it were 
 most anxious to please. The cooking was unusu- 
 ally good, and the place was certainly very quiet. 
 The windows had no glass, but were closed with 
 Venetian shutters (which did not always act, how- 
 ever, satisfactorily). The floors were covered with 
 India matting, and the beds were furnished with 
 mosquito nets. The meals were nicely served, and 
 the table always decked with flowers. The ther- 
 mometer in our rooms registered usually about 75 
 degrees, whereas at Madras it went up to 80 degrees. 
 
2/o INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Water was not carried here in goat-skins as in 
 Bombay and the North- West and Central Provinces, 
 but in large earthen jars. A man would carry one 
 in each hand, or slung by strings from a stick over 
 the shoulder. There was a fine young native who 
 watered the garden in front of our bungalow — he 
 had a splendid figure, and was almost the colour of 
 ebony. I tried to get hold of him to get a study 
 rom him, but somehow he was not to be found 
 when the time came, and another very inferior 
 specimen was offered in his stead. 
 
 We left Tanjore on the evening of February 1 1 
 for Trichinopoly. It is only a two hours' journey 
 by the railway, and we arrived quite punctually 
 about 8.30. It was too dark to see much of the 
 country, or get anything but a vague idea of the 
 place, especially when under the cover of an ox 
 tonga, two of which vehicles conveyed us and our 
 bao^a^e to the travellers' bungalow about a mile 
 off, the little zebus trotting along at a brisk pace as 
 fast as ponies, and much better conditioned than 
 any tonga ponies we saw in India. 
 
 At the bungalow we found an English lady and 
 gentleman, a newly arrived official and his wife, 
 who had not yet got a house — who were then 
 dining by candle light on the verandah — in posses- 
 sion of the best room, and had to make the best of 
 it in a small side room, poorly furnished, and with 
 no mosquito nets. We got some soda and milk 
 and turned in, but, alas, the beds were hard as nails 
 and the mosquitoes troublesome and strong on the 
 wing, while the temperature went up to 80 degrees 
 again ! 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 271 
 
 After breakfast the next morning; we eot a car- 
 riage (which was a considerable improvement both 
 as to vehicle and horse to the one at Tanjore), and 
 
 TRICHINOPOLY— OX TONGA — VITA BREVIS ! 
 
 drove towards the fort, which stands conspicuously 
 on a bold rock rising abruptly from the plain. 
 Passing through the native bazaar we crossed over 
 a long bridge, which spanned a very broad river 
 thronged with bathers, and people washing clothes, 
 and watering cattle, all busy in the stream which 
 was quite shallow, not more than waist high. This 
 bridge had been designed and built by an English 
 
272 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 engineer, somewhere in the forties. It was of red 
 sandstone, and our driver pointed out a stone in the 
 coping inscribed to certain English officers who 
 served under Clive, and helped to lay "the founda- 
 tions of the British Empire in India" in 1750-4. 
 
 At about two miles from Trichinopoly we came 
 to the great Temple of Seringham. Thatched 
 native huts, forming a sort of bazaar, led up to 
 and were clustered about the great gates, which 
 resembled the entrance to the Temple of Tanjore. 
 The height of the gateways were very great in 
 proportion to their width. The great pagodas piled 
 over them were carved with the greatest richness 
 and intricacy of detail, and covered with the figures 
 of gods and imagery of all kinds, surmounted by 
 the curious rounded long barrel-like crestino- which 
 is so characteristic of Hindu temple-architecture. 
 The sculptured or modelled work here was all 
 coloured, but many of the figures were said to be 
 in stucco. 
 
 I think we passed through three of these gate- 
 ways before we reached the final one leading into 
 the court, with a many columned pavilion in the 
 centre, having a painted ceiling in which the Hindu 
 gods figured. The great Temple of Seringham is 
 sacred to Vishnu, whose image appears very fre- 
 quently. Opposite to this central pavilion is a 
 colonnade having a frieze of carved and coloured 
 figures under a cresting, Vishnu being in the centre. 
 This seemed to be the Hindu equivalent for a 
 sculptured pediment. The effect of the thickly 
 clustered columns of white-washed stone supporting 
 this band of rich carving and colour was very strik- 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 
 
 ^73 
 
 ing, the sharp light and shade of noontide throwing 
 the front into strong relief, and through the aisles 
 formed by the columns we could see another lighted 
 court beyond. 
 
 The main passage through was lined by the little 
 stalls of a bazaar, grouped at the bases of the 
 columns, where mementoes in the shape of small 
 tin pictures heightened with coloured lacquer were 
 stamped in relief with representations of Vishnu 
 and his goddess, bead rosaries and necklaces, and 
 jewellery were also sold, and little silk bags 
 embroidered with portraits of the same deities. 
 
 As we stood facing the second court, the sacred 
 elephant of the temple came up, his forehead bear- 
 ing the mark of Vishnu, painted large in red and 
 white. It was amusing to see the animal pick up 
 a two-anna piece from the ground, and pass it over 
 its head to its keeper and driver seated on its neck. 
 Another younger and smaller elephant soon joined 
 the other, and this one had beautiful tusks which 
 his larger companion was without. This one, too, 
 skilfully picked up the small coins in the same way, 
 fumbling with the sensitive finger-like point of his 
 trunk to get hold of them in the crannies of the 
 pavement. 
 
 We then, passing across this second court, 
 entered the Hall of a Thousand Columns — a sort of 
 architectural forest. Before this is reached, how- 
 ever, there is a smaller hall which has a very 
 remarkable ranee of carved columns — the most 
 extraordinary carved stone work in Southern India. 
 They are strictly speaking rather columnar brackets, 
 bracketed columns or corbels resting on bases, and 
 
274 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 they represent warriors on horses spearing lions 
 and tigers. The chief feature in each is the rearing 
 
 in ' ' ■ 
 
 & 
 
 THE SACRED ELEPHANTS OF SERINGHAM — SECURING TWO- 
 ANNA PIECES ! 
 
 horse, which with its rider and lance, and smaller 
 figures below, and the attacking tiger, or, sometimes, 
 elephant, form a connected group cut out of a single 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 275 
 
 block of stone. These sculptures have so barbaric 
 and antique an appearance that it seems surprising 
 they should only date from the seventeenth and 
 eighteenth centuries together with the whole of the 
 temple buildings. 
 
 A curious effect is given to the interior of some 
 of the temples here by the practice of whitewashing 
 the pillars and walls, and leaving the carved figures 
 untouched in the stone, which gives them by 
 contrast an unusually swarthy appearance. 
 
 Returning, we had a view of the Rock of 
 Trichinopoly with the old fort and temple on the 
 summit. This syenite rock crops out in various 
 places in this district, but not often rising much 
 above the ground, but only emerging here and 
 there from the earth in a manner rather suoo-estive 
 of the backs of tortoises. 
 
 Saw a mongoose at the roadside which soon crept 
 out of sight and hid in the low brushwood at our 
 approach. Trichinopoly is well wooded, but is not 
 particularly picturesque, though the scattered tiled 
 or thatched bungalows look pretty enough in their 
 gardens, but on the whole it gives one the impres- 
 sion of rather a straggling place. There was 
 a deserted looking mission church with a few 
 tombstones about it quite near our bungalow, 
 trying to look like an English village church, but 
 not succeeding. Leipzig Lutherans and Wesleyan 
 Methodists are said to have "missions" here, as 
 well as the Church of England. These missionaries 
 seem to plant their stations wherever there are 
 important Hindu temples. The wonder is that the 
 natives are so tolerant. 
 
276 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Madura was our next destination, and we were 
 not sorry to get away from our stifling little barn 
 of a room at the bungalow, leaving in the early 
 morning about daybreak for the 5.45 Madras mail. 
 
 The country was flat at first, with, again, large 
 sheets of water along the sides of the line, but as 
 we passed from the Trichinopoly district to the 
 Madura district we entered a mountainous region, 
 thickly wooded. I noted many cedar trees, and a 
 kind of cactus Growing" high with tall tree-like stem. 
 It was an interesting and varied country the rest 
 of the way. The crops were chiefly paddy and 
 castor oil plant. 
 
 One station had the extraordinary name of 
 Ammayanayakanur, and we were soon in the 
 tobacco-growing district, passing Dindigul with a 
 rock and an old fort upon it, not unlike Trichinopoly 
 in character. Cigars of the district were offered at 
 the station, but we saw no tobacco crops near the 
 line. 
 
 We reached Madura about noon, in time for 
 tiffin, and engaged a room at the station, which was 
 a great improvement as to beds and general ap- 
 pointments on our recent bungalow experiences. 
 The sleeping-rooms were built out on a separate 
 wino- which appeared to be new. They opened on 
 to a corridor which led to a large open terrace, and 
 were in charge of a Eurasian woman. There was 
 also a good dining-room at the station. 
 
 It was tremendously hot, however, and we could 
 not very well move out until after 4 o'clock, when 
 having engaged a guide we drove out to see the 
 oreat temple. Our bearer objected strongly to the 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 277 
 
 o-uide and there was some friction between them, 
 but as native servants were prohibited from enter- 
 ing the temples, and were always stopped at the 
 
 THE RIVALS. OUR MOONSAWMY AND THE MADURA GUIDE 
 
 gates, Moonsawmy could not show cause why the 
 guide was not necessary, and we found him very 
 intelligent, speaking English well, and having the 
 history of the place at his fingers' ends. 
 
 The Madura temple is so remarkable and is on 
 such a scale that I was anxious to get all the 
 information about it I could. Mr Pillai (the guide) 
 
278 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 was very useful and well-informed, and he gave us 
 many interesting stories and details about the 
 sculptured figures and paintings. 
 
 There are four great pagoda-gates, richly carved 
 and painted, of the same type but larger than 
 those at Tanjore and Trichinopoly. Evidently 
 the Hindus had no scruples about colouring their 
 sculpture, and the colouring has been renewed 
 from time to time. The prevailing tints used are 
 turquoise blue, vermilion, yellow, white, and green. 
 One of the gates the guide pointed out was granite 
 up to the first story, and the figures were in stucco 
 above. 
 
 The four gates mentioned are connected by a 
 high wall, on the crest of which occur at intervals 
 the image of Siva (to whom the temple is dedi- 
 cated) seated between two bulls, the bulls being 
 placed upon the top of the wall, and the image of 
 the God in a sort of arched recess, sunk into it a 
 little below. The upper part of the wall is un- 
 coloured, but a sort of high dado is carried along 
 it below, painted in broad vertical stripes of red and 
 w T hite which seems a favourite scheme of decoration 
 in Southern India. The wall encloses a broad 
 paved court, and inside this is another wall with 
 gates, through which the various temples and 
 columned halls are entered. 
 
 In the centre of all is the sacred tank, a laroe 
 pool of water surrounded by steps, and an arcade 
 of white columns. As we approached this, we 
 saw a crowd of natives, men and women, seated 
 on the paved margin of the tank along one side 
 and between the columns listening" to a priest who 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 279 
 
 was preaching with much earnestness. Our guide 
 said he was translating or expounding (one did not 
 know with what gloss) passages from the Sanskrit 
 text of the sacred books which another priest 
 previously read in the original. 
 
 The scene was a picturesque one. The various 
 colours of the people's dresses, in which dark red 
 prevailed, showed against the white wall and columns, 
 and the brown faces made a harmonious scheme of 
 colour. 
 
 The wall along the upper part was painted with 
 a series of histories of Siva and his incarnations. 
 These picture-stories were arranged in tiers or 
 friezes, about four or five deep, one above the other, 
 and running- the entire length of the wall behind 
 the colonade, each side the tank. These paintings 
 were highly interesting, painted probably with the 
 main object of making the stories intelligible to the 
 people, they were quite decorative, full of detail, and 
 forming a rather closely filled and dark pattern of 
 colour, having- the effect of a woven hanoino-. 
 
 One of the painted legends treated of a certain 
 Maharajah who appears to have persecuted the 
 early Jain seceders, much as the Roman emperor 
 treated the early Christians, with great ferocity, 
 finally impaling them on stakes, and thus they 
 were painted all of a row ! 
 
 The Jain sect was at first apparently regarded as 
 a schism, and the Jains as heretics or apostates fall- 
 ing away from the pure Hindu worship of Siva. 
 
 One seems here, in this great Temple of Madura, 
 to get back to the most ancient type of religion, and 
 one which, after all, allowing for evolution in our 
 
2So INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 ideas, seems the most lasting — Nature worship. The 
 Hindus in their pantheon include and embrace 
 everything, at least in their own universe, which is 
 their own country, and to them, truly, " nothing is 
 common or unclean." Their deities incarnate 
 themselves in all sorts of forms. Siva, according 
 to one legend, for instance, even taking the form of 
 a wild sow, and suckling the young of the mother 
 which had been slain by the hunters. The second 
 son of Siva rides upon a peacock, the representative 
 bird of India. The Zebu bull is sacred to Siva, 
 and in the Lingam is symbolised and revered the 
 male and female principle of generation, the root 
 and source of all life on the earth. 
 
 In one place in the temple, between two of the 
 columns, was a group of the nine planets personified 
 and placed around the sun — a golden sphere in the 
 centre. For each of these embodied planets might 
 be found a corresponding personality among the 
 deities of the classical world. 
 
 Another striking thing about the Madura temple 
 is the force of realization and expression in the 
 figure sculpture. Life-sized figures of different 
 gods and demons are carved in stone in front of 
 the columns in many of the halls of the temple, the 
 columns themselves frequently white-washed, while 
 the figures are left in the untouched stone and look 
 in contrast like bronze figures, their elaborate detail 
 and undercutting emphasizing this suggestion. 
 Indeed, the variety of character, invention, as well 
 as the vigour and freedom, governed by a certain 
 formalism, of some of this sculpture at its best 
 reminds one of European gothic sculpture in the 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 281 
 
 Middle Ages, not only in its symbolical and 
 legendary aspect, but also its all embracing character 
 and sympathy with the life of the people. The type 
 of the Hindu mother appears, for instance, in one 
 of the best of the figures carrying her child on her 
 hip, just as the native women do to this day, while 
 a suckling infant is suspended at her breast. 
 
 Mockery, if not humour, too, seems to come out 
 here and there sometimes, as in the dancing figure 
 of a mocking musician playing on his pipes. 
 
 A frequent subject is Siva presenting his sister 
 in marriage to Vishnu, and there are besides a 
 number of curious leg-ends connected with the 
 sculptures here, which are very various, and, of 
 course, not unfrequently become grotesque or 
 monstrous under the influence of the Hindu 
 religious symbolic ideas and the Hindu inventive- 
 ness ; but one feels that here is a genuine piece of 
 ancient life, expressed in the forms of Hindu art — 
 frank nature worship in full vigour of life, and a 
 dominant influence in the lives of millions of people. 
 
 In the sacred tank the people were constantly 
 bathino- and washing- their clothes. The water 
 never seems to be changed and is perfectly green 
 in colour. Our guide said it remained pure and 
 ordered a man to show its quality by dipping his 
 hands in%ind holding a small quantity in them, 
 cupwise. The water, however, was, even in this 
 small quantity, quite green, although a clear green. 
 It must have been full of vegetable matter, one would 
 think. It reminded us of what the Maharajah's 
 secretary had said of the Ganges water at Benares. 
 
 The colouring of the interior of the Temple in 
 
282 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 parts recalled the mural decoration of ancient 
 Egypt in its use of simple primary colours — red, 
 green, white, and yellow prevailing.' The lotus 
 flower, too, was constantly introduced, treated as a 
 rosette upon the ceilings. 
 
 Some of the pillared halls were, however, left in 
 plain stonework, or simply whitewashed. One 
 long hall we entered looked very impressive in the 
 dim light, a single ray from the sun penetrating, 
 and making a spot of intense light upon the floor. 
 
 We saw a gilded copper dome, and a golden 
 flag staff, and our guide pointed out the great doors 
 behind which the festival cars were kept, and we 
 saw, too, wonderfully decorated life-sized images of 
 elephants and horses which formed part of the show 
 on great occasions. There were two black and 
 two white elephants, standing between the columns, 
 under rather tawdry and tinselly canopies, and other 
 furniture of the festivals ; one large hanging bearing- 
 the words of welcome to the Prince and Princess 
 of Wales, which must have been used for the occasion 
 of their visit. 
 
 Various donors of parts of the temple were 
 pointed out, in effigy. The Czar of Russia appeared 
 (not however in person) as the donor of certain 
 shrines and a brass canopy or arch which held many 
 lamps. 
 
 The practice of drawing the image of the god on 
 festival days through the streets on great cars seems 
 general at all the chief temples in Southern India, 
 and not confined to Juggernath. At Seringham 
 we saw the great car on which the image of Siva 
 was drawn on such occasions, and also the thick 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 28 
 
 6 
 
 cables — like ship's cables — which were used for the 
 purpose — multitudes of men hauling the car out of 
 the temple and along the streets by these means. 
 Here, too, at Madura the god Siva is represented 
 seated upon his car which is treated as a kind of 
 throne, the wheels and the horses sculptured at the 
 sides in a symbolic sort of way. 
 
 In some of the painted histories on the walls, 
 Siva is shown in a winged car (suggesting his rapid 
 flight and omnipresence, perhaps) and, presumably, 
 his image is drawn out on a car at festivals to keep 
 his presence and moving influence vividly in the 
 minds of his worshippers. 
 
 It was curious to see the bazaars in the corridors 
 and outer courts of the temple. Rows of stalls, 
 where all sorts of miscellaneous things were sold — 
 brass ware, pottery, woven stuffs, beads, and all 
 kinds of knick-knacks and toys. Some of the sellers 
 squat on the pavement and spread out their goods 
 before them. The temple and its courts is a great 
 resort of the people, in fact. Pilgrims lie down and 
 sleep near its shrines, and the children play freely 
 between its pillars. Bats flutter in and out of the 
 crevices of the ceilings, or hang in little black 
 clusters up aloft in their recesses. 
 
 In sketching at the sacred tank a very large crowd 
 of natives gradually collected behind me, and on each 
 side, and it was as much as the guide could do to 
 keep them from closing in, and completely surround- 
 ing me. Some American visitors to the temple 
 whom we met afterwards in Ceylon said that, seeing 
 this vast concourse pressing round the tank, they 
 thought it was a suicide ! Travellers usually take 
 
284 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 snap-shots with hand cameras, and I imagine 
 that a sketcher in colours is comparatively rare. 
 The crowd, however, were quite quiet. The 
 guide was encouraging, and remarked when 
 I had finished that it was " better than a 
 photograph." 
 
 Another afternoon we drove out through the city 
 and some three miles beyond to see the " Teppa 
 Tank " — a large sheet of water, enclosed by a low 
 wall painted in red and white stripes, with steps to 
 the water and carved bulls decorating the balus- 
 trades. On an island in the centre of the tank rose 
 the pagoda of a temple, in stucco, and four small 
 pagodas at the four corners of the garden- island — 
 a mass of foliage amid which the pagodas shone, 
 ivory-white in the sunshine. 
 
 Near this tank on the roadside was another 
 temple sacred to a goddess who was the object of 
 solicitude in the case of people desiring offspring, 
 and to whom votive offerings of cradles were made 
 by the devotees, as well as doll-like images of 
 children made of baked clay and painted. The 
 flat roof of this temple was peopled with a crowd of 
 these grotesque images, and the carriage boy was 
 sent to fetch one for our inspection. 
 
 Then we drove on to where grew a oio-antic 
 Banyan tree — eighty feet in girth, and having 
 quite a small forest around its central vast trunk 
 of offshoots — new trees which had rooted them- 
 selves in the earth from the parent branches. 
 It was rather suggestive of a many pillared 
 sylvan temple. 
 
 After this we reached the Palace of Tiramala, 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 285 
 
 which stood at the head of a large village — an 
 imposing structure in stucco, mostly yellow washed. 
 The enormous columns of the court looked out of 
 proportion to the arches they supported, which were 
 of a rather debased Mogul type, heavy with very 
 elaborate grotesque ornamentation in stucco in the 
 spandrils and on the ceilings, many of which had 
 as a central device a large lotus flower formally 
 treated as a rosette, and in some instances elabor- 
 ately painted. The effect of the whole building 
 was rather weird, and suggested a rather queer 
 architectural nightmare, in which massive Norman 
 cathedral piers had swallowed Roman Doric ones, 
 or vice versa, and a Hindu modeller had broken 
 up some Mogul arches, and fastened them together 
 again with grotesque elephants and dragons' 
 teeth. 
 
 The palace was now used as law courts, and it 
 was curious to see two modern oil portraits of two 
 neat English lawyers hanging on the walls of these 
 vast columned halls. 
 
 We next visited a native shop in the village bazaar 
 where the fine muslins and silks of the district were 
 made and sold. We were duly seated in chairs 
 and fanned by boys, while an active brown member 
 of the firm unfolded tempting saris, pugarees, and 
 silk stuffs, some beautifully brocaded with gold 
 thread, and of course we possessed ourselves of a 
 few specimens. 
 
 In this district there is a thriving native silk 
 industry, hand-weaving, also dyeing, and the in- 
 genious native craft of making patterns on cottons 
 and muslins by tying and dipping. Hanks of 
 
286 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 cotton and silk may be seen hung out over bamboo 
 poles placed horizontally, and ox carts roll by filled 
 with the dyed skeins. There is a fine dark rich red, 
 frequently seen in the sari dress of the women, also 
 a dark purple. The women here generally wear 
 the dark red sari with a narrow border of black ; 
 in some cases the sari is black with a red border. 
 
 In the village street we saw a little native bride 
 drawn in a carriage. 
 
 Returning to the city in the cool of the evening 
 we stopped at the temple bazaar and bought some 
 zebu bells — curious little pear-shaped brass bells, 
 each with a different tone, which are hung round 
 the animals' necks. Their foreheads, too, are 
 frequently bound with strings of beads, or shells 
 fixed on leather bands, and their horns are painted 
 green or red. 
 
 There is a method of decorating the centres of 
 the dining tables in Southern India which, I think, 
 we first noticed at the hotel at Madras, or at one 
 of the refreshment stations on the Coromandel 
 coast. It consists in arranging dyed sago seeds in 
 patterns forming a table centre on the white cloth. 
 At the station refreshment room at Madura there 
 was a more elaborate example done by means of 
 stencils — a border of yellow enclosed a lightly 
 powdered filling, and an effective outer border was 
 produced by a repeated sprig of a red rose with 
 green leaves. The general effect was that of an 
 embroidered pattern, but of course it was liable to 
 slight displacements, and was constantly done 
 afresh, one of the waiters being the special 
 artist. 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 287 
 
 We left Madura on the 15th of February for 
 Tuticorin. 
 
 The country traversed was flat and plain for the 
 
 
 TUTICORIN. DEPARTURE FOR COLOMBO. 
 KITES AND CROWS. 
 
 THE LAST OF THE 
 
 most part, with cultivated crops of castor oil 
 plants, paddy, and corn, alternating with jungle 
 of brushwood, but no fine trees. Hills were 
 seen in the distance on the right, and we made 
 
288 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 several stoppages at short places with very long- 
 names. 
 
 Arriving" at Tuticorin about four in the after- 
 noon, we went on to the beach station, and got on 
 board a small steam launch or tug in waiting at 
 the jetty, then we saw the last quarter, as it were, of 
 our Moon-sawmy, and took our leave of him, after 
 he had had his usual fierce dispute with the coolies, 
 who certainly never received trade union wages 
 from him. On the whole we were not sorry 
 to get away from the rupee-hunting throng 
 which usually hang about stations and wharves 
 — the kites and crows in pursuit of the traveller, 
 their prey, who for the time being, at least, now 
 escaped their clutches. 
 
 Tuticorin presented no obvious attractions 
 except the sea, which we were quite glad to meet 
 again. The launch seemed just large enough to 
 hold the train-load of passengers — Americans, 
 Germans, and English with their baggage, and after 
 about half-an-hour's steam across the harbour we 
 reached the steamer (the "Pandua" of Glasgow) and 
 climbed up the gangway to the saloon deck. We 
 secured a rather small but well-appointed berth 
 opening off the saloon, and were able to enjoy a 
 well-served dinner — food seems generally better on 
 ship-board than on land — at least Indian land. 
 Cargo boats were clinging to the steamer's side, 
 and, at sunset, one by one cast off and hoisted 
 their lateen sails (like those of an Arab dhow) each 
 boat having one about the length of the vessel. 
 The sailors in hoisting up the sail climbed and 
 clung to the rope, to bring it up with their weight. 
 
MADRAS AND THE SOUTH 289 
 
 Chanting a curious sort of song the while, our 
 steamer weighed anchor and started, and we looked 
 astern and saw the last of India fading from view 
 behind the shining wake of the steamer, and lost in 
 the oflow of an orange sunset. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 NOTES OF CEYLON 
 
 'HP HE voyage across the straits to Colombo 
 -■■ proved to be wonderfully calm, which was 
 rather unusual as we understood it was as a rule 
 tempestuous, and we did not find our cabin nearly 
 so hot as our room at Madura. We sighted the 
 coast of Ceylon early in the morning of February i6 s 
 and got into harbour at Colombo about 8 a.m. A 
 fleet of fishing boats had previously passed us, of the 
 curious native rig — a square sail apparently arranged 
 to sail before the wind only. Our steamer was 
 soon surrounded by a little fleet of odd shaped out- 
 rigger canoes, some of them mere planks, paddled 
 by active little darkie boys, who dived for small 
 silver coins if they could induce the passengers to 
 throw them. These little amphibians seemed as 
 much at home in the water as in their canoes, and 
 they swam like fishes. 
 
 Our good friend Mr Bois sent a messenger on 
 board to meet us and help us through the customs, 
 having secured us rooms at the Galle Face. Most 
 things are chargeable under the tariff, but the 
 traveller pays duty on his own valuation. 
 
 The steamer did not land its passengers at the 
 quay, but anchored in the harbour, and everyone 
 landed in boats. The Hotel boats, manned by 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 
 
 291 
 
 native oarsmen, row swiftly to the Custom House, 
 and often race each other. After passing the 
 customs we got into a little Victoria and drove 
 straight to the Galle Face. 
 
 Not much can be said for the architectural 
 
 '? j^J 
 
 
 !%% 
 
 r? 
 
 LANDING AT COLOMBO 
 
 beauty of Colombo, the buildings being, generally 
 speaking, of ordinary commercial type. The 
 Grand Oriental Hotel, or G.O. H. as it is commonly 
 called, is a big pile near the harbour, and has an 
 arcade surrounding the ground story, like most of 
 the stores, and continuous balconies above, par- 
 titioned off according to the rooms which open on 
 
292 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 to them. Here and there there is a relic of the 
 Dutch occupation in some of the frontages with 
 round recessed arches and pilasters. 
 
 The Governor's house, as usual, is the most 
 attractive looking- building, half hidden amidst 
 masses of palms and other trees. A rather bold 
 clock tower faces a long esplanade, which extends 
 for nearly half a mile along the sea front, at the 
 end of which is situated the Galle Face Hotel, 
 with its cluster of slender-stemmed cocoa palms 
 leaning over the sea. Here, the long ocean 
 breakers rolling in, the turquoise waves melting 
 into dazzling foam, seen through the palm trees 
 has an enchanting effect, both in the sunlight and 
 the moonlight. There was a young crescent at 
 night — seen, as only seen in the East, on its back — 
 floating like a fairy boat, and casting a mysterious 
 light over the dark ocean, the waving palms over- 
 head and the sound of the breaking waves adding 
 to the wonderful charm of the scene. 
 
 Jin-rickshaws were in great request, but the 
 supply seemed fully equal to the demand, and the 
 esplanade was always full of the trotting boys 
 drawing white clad Europeans in topis up and 
 down the terra-cotta coloured road. There was a 
 wide, green strip extending along the drive, and on 
 the other side of the suburbs of Colombo extended 
 northwards, chiefly native houses, and bungalows 
 of European residents often enclosed in gardens 
 and hidden in ample foliage of trees. 
 
 The hotel was served by an army of Cingalese 
 waiters who wore their hair much like the southern 
 Indians — long, like a woman's, and done up in a 
 
UNDER THE PALMS AT THE GAI.LE FACE, CEYLON 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 293 
 
 knot at the back, their peculiar distinction, however, 
 being- a semicircular comb of tortoise-shell worn 
 like a coronet on the top of the head, but with the 
 
 COMMON OBJECTS OF COLOMBO. (jIN-RICKSHAWUS BIPEDES) 
 
 open points in front. Otherwise their costume 
 consisted of a close white skirt, and a neat white 
 jacket with green facings. Their feet were always 
 bare, like the Indian boys. 
 
 There was a band at dinner, served in a vast 
 white hall, and after, on the terrace, when the 
 
294 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 guests would sit out among the palms lighted up 
 by jewels of electric light. The white breakers 
 foaming under the moon, the shadowy waving 
 
 r r 
 
 A CINGALESE WAITER 
 
 palms, the sky flashing with sheet lightning, the 
 brilliantly lighted hotel, and the white figures flit- 
 ting about "among the guests star-scattered on the 
 grass," all contributed to a striking stage effect. 
 
 The hotel was certainly spacious and well 
 appointed, having large cool corridors and rooms 
 to sit in — comparatively cool that is to say, and 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 295 
 
 without the gloom of so many of the Indian hotels. 
 In the matter of food, cookery, and the service too, 
 it was a great improvement on the Peninsula. 
 There were electric fans everywhere in motion, and 
 we could always turn one on in our room — which 
 was normally an oven. The draft from these fans, 
 however, are said to be apt to give people chills, 
 and some caution in their use in bed-rooms is 
 necessary. 
 
 We visited our friends in their charming house — 
 one of the older style of Colombo dwellings, in a 
 delightful garden where afternoon-tea was served 
 on a pleasant lawn shaded by fine trees, among 
 which we recognised the forest flame, which with 
 its wonderful scarlet blossoms had struck us on the 
 way to Darjeeling, though not then in flower here. 
 
 Another day Mr Bois took us out for a drive in 
 his motor all around Colombo and its neighbour- 
 hood. We went through the town and along by 
 the dry dock, and through the native quarter 
 (Pettah) and away through narrow lanes shaded 
 by cocoa palms, plantains, banyans, mangoes 
 and other trees growing with tropical luxuriance 
 each side the way, in plantations, and around the 
 bungalows. 
 
 The motor seemed a strange vehicle in the midst 
 of the primitive life of the Cingalese ; and it is said 
 that extremes meet, and certainly a motor and a 
 primitive ox-wagon represent about the greatest 
 contrast in means of locomotion and transport that 
 one can well imagine. It was rather wonderful 
 that we escaped a collision sometimes meeting such 
 vehicles in the narrow lanes, or that we avoided 
 
296 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 running over stray chickens or dogs — the latter 
 kind always resenting the motor and imperilling 
 
 IN CEYLON — EXTREMES MEET — THE MOTOR AND THE OX-CART 
 
 their lives by running and barking in close 
 proximity with the enemy. The natives we met 
 walking, too, were by no means alert in getting out 
 of the way, and did not seem to realise the danger. 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 297 
 
 We passed mission houses and churches of all 
 sorts, and of every shade of theological colour — 
 Wesleyans, Roman Catholics, and Salvation Army 
 — all the plagues of sectarian Christianity which 
 afflict humanity in Europe, alas! 
 
 Our friend said, a propos of some remarks of mine 
 about the ignorance and indifference of missionaries 
 as to native religions and their natural suitability 
 to the races, and their habits of life and the climates 
 where they are found, that he had cautioned 
 missionaries against running down the native 
 religion. This in Ceylon, is mainly Buddhist (and 
 Buddha surely discovered something analogous to 
 Christian ethics, if not superior, long before Christ). 
 The Sinhalese are Buddhists, but there are some 
 Hindus and Mohammedans in Ceylon, and even 
 pure Buddhism is mingled in some curious way 
 with a primitive devil-worship. 
 
 We saw the golf links and a golf club house — 
 quite a la Anglaise — on a rising ground and bare 
 of trees, for a wonder in Ceylon. It appeared that 
 these links occupied the site of a farm which did 
 not succeed. Then we saw the river, where an 
 engineer's iron bridge had taken the place of a former 
 bridge of boats. Colombo must have largely lost 
 its primitive and Dutch character when the old 
 Fort was destroyed. This has been replaced by 
 terribly ugly Barrack buildings, and the town is 
 rapidly becoming a modern commercial centre, big 
 warehouses and universal provider's stores are 
 rising up after the European or American type. 
 The. native character, however, manifests itself still, 
 peeping out here and there, especially in the older 
 
298 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 shops, and there is more native costume to be seen 
 than one had imagined. The country ox-cart is a 
 striking object with its huge tilt of matting pro- 
 jecting forward and backward like a hood, the 
 single zebu by which it is usually drawn appearing 
 small for the size of the vehicle. 
 
 We did not see many native women about, but 
 those we did see wore the native dress, consisting 
 of a white bodice, cut round and rather low in the 
 neck, with a lace edging ; a necklace and earrings, 
 and the narrow skirt wrapped about the lower half 
 of the figure to the feet generally printed with a 
 pattern, or chequered, similar to that worn by the 
 men. 
 
 We drove round by the Cinnamon gardens, and 
 rested at a club house — a mixed European Club — 
 a pleasant house with a large and well-kept croquet 
 lawn in front where ladies were playing. We sat 
 a while, after being refreshed and making some 
 new acquaintances, we returned in the motor to our 
 hotel. 
 
 We had thunder and lightning at night. The 
 
 o o o 
 
 lightning flashing almost incessantly all over the 
 heavens, but mostly from great clouds rolling up 
 from the north and east. 
 
 While sitting at tea in the hall of the Galle Face 
 one afternoon we met an old friend in the person 
 of Mr Cyril Holman Hunt, the son of the famous 
 pre-Raphaelite painter, who had been a planter for 
 some years, first in Ceylon and afterwards in the 
 Straits, from which he had just arrived. So that it 
 was quite a chance our meeting, as he was not even 
 staying at the same hotel. 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 299 
 
 The same evening the officers of the Italian war- 
 ship Marco Polo were entertained at dinner at the 
 Galle Face, and their band played selections 
 afterwards. 
 
 The scene in the hall of a Colombo hotel is 
 always busy, but in a different way to a European 
 hostelry — one might almost say it was feverish 
 haste in the midst of languid indolence — a ballet 
 of enerofetic action before a crowd of unconcerned 
 spectators. While some are in the fuss of departure 
 or arrival, rows of enervated travellers lounge in 
 wicker chairs, reading, chatting, smoking, or 
 engaged with tea or cooling drinks, mostly attired 
 in white ; many of the ladies in delicate summer 
 dresses, the men in white drill or tussore suits. 
 All nationalities are represented, the majority 
 American, and mostly people waiting for their 
 steamers outward or homeward. 
 
 Most visitors to Ceylon make a trip to Kandy, 
 and one morning early saw us on our way thither. 
 The railway carriages are good and comfortable, 
 but they do not allow the stacking of hand luggage 
 in them as they do to such an extent on the Indian 
 railways. The train passed through a very rich 
 and fruitful-looking country, where the paddy crops 
 in different stages — under water, green and ripe or 
 being reaped and thrashed — reminded us of India. 
 The fields were generally surrounded by groves of 
 plantains and palms. 
 
 The vegetation being most luxuriant everywhere, 
 banyans, mangoes, and flowering trees of different 
 kinds including spireas and the "forest flame" wesaw 
 at Darjeeling ; tangled masses of creepers hanging 
 
300 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 from the boughs, and often covering the whole tree. 
 Several rivers were crossed the red earth showing 
 on their banks, and the water generally tinged with 
 the same. 
 
 We reached Kandy about 11.15, the train 
 ascending to this place about 1600 feet. The line 
 curving up the slopes so that we could frequently 
 see the engine and forepart of the train rounding 
 the loop in front of us. We could only secure a 
 room for one night at the hotel (the Queen's), so 
 that we had to make the most of our time. 
 Accordingly, after tiffin, we started in a carriage for 
 what the hotel people prosaically called " No. 2. 
 drive " (!). 
 
 Skirting the large tank or lake in front of the 
 hotel, which has a solid stone palisading around it 
 cut into points and pierced, we ascended a steep 
 road, winding up the hills through lovely woodlands, 
 at every turn presenting fine mountainous and 
 panoramic views of the country. Beautiful clusters 
 of bamboo of enormous size occurred frequently, the 
 stems very thick and of an oxidized bronze colour, 
 varying from dark to light. Another kind had 
 bright golden coloured stems, and a lighter, more 
 feathery foliage. Cocoa palms, plantains, and 
 mangoes were abundant, also cinnamon plants. 
 A native boy offered us a cocoa bean pod, and a 
 spray of cinnamon — a pretty tree with a tassel-like 
 flower. There were also large trees bearing massive 
 pendulous fruits, which grow directly out of the 
 trunk suspended on very short stalks in clusters of 
 two and three. This fruit was called "Jack fruit." 
 It looked like a sort of gigantic walnut, and was 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 301 
 
 covered with a soft green velvety kind of rind. 
 The leaves of this tree was small and poplar-like in 
 shape. The brilliant scarlet lily-like bloom of a 
 dark leaved shrub was often seen, the flower having- 
 long stamens hanging out like a tassel. 
 
 The various drives which had been made over 
 the hills and through these great woods were 
 apparently named after different governors' wives. 
 There was Lady Longden's drive, Lady Macarthy's, 
 Lady Horton's, and so on. We sometimes had 
 the impression, as the carriage followed the gravelled 
 curves of these drives, that we were approaching 
 some country seat among the hills. The drives, 
 though well planned for points of view, and well 
 kept, were, perhaps, a little too suggestive of 
 the landscape gardener, a little too conscious and 
 laid out to order, to be thoroughly enjoyable. We 
 should have preferred to see the untouched work 
 of the original designer of Ceylon scenery. The 
 natural wild country unanglicised — though I know 
 I should be told that without such roads and 
 clearings one would not be able to see the country 
 at all. 
 
 We British, somehow, always seem to carry 
 suburban ideas with us everywhere, and English 
 trimness and neatness even out into the tropical 
 wilderness. We passed neat homes surrounded 
 by smooth tennis and croquet lawns, as if bits of 
 Chiselhurst or Surbiton had been suddenly dumped 
 down in the midst of all this wonderful world of 
 luxuriant growth and unfamiliar trees, and close 
 to native huts of the most primitive kind. 
 
 The native roof here, as at Darjeeling, appeared 
 
302 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 to be either thatch or wooden shingles, and here, 
 again, we were sorry to see corrugated iron creep- 
 into use everywhere. 
 
 The most primaeval sight we had was perhaps 
 that of the elephants bathing in the river. This 
 was at a spot close to a native village, where we 
 left our carriage and, walking through a grove, 
 came out on the river shore where five or six black 
 elephants — one a large one with fine tusks — were 
 disporting themselves in the water, in charge 
 of native attendants, rolling over on their sides 
 and squirting the water over themselves by means 
 of their trunks with the greatest enjoyment. The 
 water was rather thick and reddish in colour from 
 the clay of the banks. 
 
 On the way back to the hotel we passed the 
 famous Buddhist Temple of the Tooth with its 
 pagoda-like roof, but it looks but an insignificant 
 building" to be the centre of Buddhistic reverence 
 and tribute. 
 
 This was a lovely moonlight night, and the 
 walk by the lake would have been perfect but for 
 the touts and vendors of all sorts of things that 
 you do not want. 
 
 We left Kandy the next morning for Nuwara- 
 Eliya our travelling companions were two Germans 
 from Berlin, father and son. The train continued 
 to climb, the line curving more sharply than before. 
 We saw some fine mountain distances and Adam's 
 Peak rising up afar, and soon entered a vast tea- 
 planted district the tea plants often bordering the 
 railway line, and covering the slopes of the hills 
 which seemed covered with a more or less regular 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 303 
 
 green pattern, the dark velvety green of the tea 
 plants intersected by the light feathery foliage of 
 young rubber-trees, planted in regular rows at in- 
 tervals in some places. The landscape was very 
 
 TEA PLANTATION, CEYLON 
 
 " She liked coffee, and I liked tea, 
 And that is the reason we always agree ! " 
 
 clear and every detail sharply defined in the bright 
 sunlight, with very little suggestion of atmosphere, 
 except for the mountain distances which were deep 
 blue. 
 
 In the afternoon about four or five o'clock we 
 reached Nanu-oya station, where we had to change 
 into a narrow-gauge train to finish the last part 
 of the journey to Nuwara-Eliya. We continued 
 
30 4 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 to climb in shorter and more loop-like curves, 
 bein^ able often to gaze down on the line we had 
 just traversed winding below like a glittering- 
 serpent among the wooded hills and tea planta- 
 tions. Tea everywhere, and not a drop to drink — 
 yet suggesting potentially more than the whole 
 world could consume. 
 
 Something after five found us at Nuwara-Eliya 
 where we got into a wagonette, and a good pair of 
 greys brought us through the village to the St 
 Andrews Hotel, a very pleasant homelike place 
 in a nice garden and backed by beautiful woods. 
 The original house looked as if it mio-ht have been 
 a private residence, and there was just a touch of 
 Rydal Mount about it and its situation, at the 
 first glance, but a new wing had been added with 
 a tin- roof, and there was a golf course in the valley- 
 just below. 
 
 The valley is very beautiful, with its richly 
 wooded hills and a lake with blue mountainous 
 distance. Delicate feathery, aspen-like trees wave 
 in the soft air, and there are numbers of firs and 
 cypresses which give an Italian touch to the land- 
 scape, but no palms. In fact, the whole character 
 of the country is totally different from Colombo 
 and Kandy. The climate, too, is much cooler, the 
 thermometer falling to 40 degrees at night, or even to 
 frost, though the sun is hot enough in the middle 
 of the day. 
 
 There is a native bazaar, and an English quarter 
 with a red club house, tennis courts, and a race- 
 course — of course. St Andrews, however, where 
 we were quartered, was quite away by itself, and was 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 305 
 
 altogether perhaps the pleasantest place we had 
 stayed at either in India or Ceylon. It was possible, 
 for one thing-, to walk out without being worried 
 by guides and touts, or to buy things. The climate 
 was delightful after the enervating heat of Colombo, 
 and there being hardly any other guests the quiet 
 of the place was a great relief and very restful. 
 
 One afternoon we had a walk up the opposite 
 hills, the track being mostly through tea-plantations, 
 with forest bits occasionally. The tea tree left to 
 itself apparently grows high on a stem, having a 
 very striking character and shape, suggesting almost 
 the stone-pine. The small, thick-stemmed, closely- 
 trimmed, flat-headed dwarf bushes which are its 
 characteristic forms in the tea plantations also have 
 an interesting effect in some situations on the hill- 
 sides, intersected by wandering paths whereon 
 the dark natives move up and down. The tea- 
 plant has a leaf somewhat of the character of a 
 laurel or orange tree, and its flower recalls that of 
 the orange. Ceylon tea when made is of a beautiful 
 clear orange colour — I mean when poured from the 
 pot. 
 
 The Hakgalla gardens, founded by the govern- 
 ment in 1 86 1, well repay a visit, and are deeply 
 interesting to anyone interested in the flora of 
 Ceylon. It is a drive of about six miles ; passing 
 through the native village, and by the English 
 Club and race-course, the lake is skirted, and after 
 that the road takes the character rather of a 
 mountain pass, and runs along the edge of a deep 
 wooded ravine down which a rocky stream tumbles 
 into falls over boulders. There was just a touch of 
 
306 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 a sort of Borrowdale, translated into Cingalee, about 
 this part of the drive. The wild forest which clad 
 the hills each side of the valley was very different 
 in character and colour to anything seen in Europe, 
 the trees showed the most lovely tints of varied 
 bronze, from pale green to copper red. The tea 
 tree was 'abundant, and the rhododendron, which 
 here is totally different in character and general 
 shape to the cultivated shrub-like bushes in English 
 gardens. Here it is a thick-stemmed tree, with a 
 rugged bark, and a bold irregular outline with 
 rather sparse leavage and deep crimson flowers 
 which glow splendidly among the dark metallic 
 green of the leaves. There is a sort of formal 
 grotesqueness about the tree, too, which is rather 
 Chinese. 
 
 On the way through the ravine, at a solitary 
 spot below the road, we saw a Buddhist shrine. 
 On a little platform surrounded by a rough fence of 
 loose stones, and facing the road, was a row of 
 carved images, in some dark wood, standing figures 
 of Buddha. In front of this rude structure we saw 
 a native worshipper prostrating himself on the edge 
 of the road, and bowing and bending towards the 
 shrine. 
 
 The Hakgalla gardens are botanic and horti- 
 cultural gardens laid out with great care and skill 
 on the slope of a mountain. They apparently 
 contain all the varieties of trees and plants indi- 
 genous to Ceylon. Tree ferns are there in abund- 
 ance, flowering trees of many kinds, and parasitic 
 plants, and orchids in great variety, growing in 
 their natural manner. As one threads the narrow 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 307 
 
 wandering paths it is as if one passed through a 
 thick jungle or tropical forest, only that the walking 
 is made easy, and botanical labels here and there, 
 and signs of gardener's care and labour, remind one 
 it is a garden. 
 
 There is a keeper's lodge, in this Cingalese para- 
 dise, covered with creepers, and a formal level 
 parterre in front, one mass of brilliant floral colour 
 — African marigolds, fuchsias, poppies, blue centred 
 daisies, sunflowers, blue convolvulus, Amaryllis, 
 and white eucharis lilies, canaryensis, polyanthus 
 and many more ; some that might be found in 
 English gardens and hot-houses, with other tropical 
 wonders only seen at Kew. 
 
 After a ramble here we returned to the carnage, 
 and drove back through the now burning sun. 
 
 Gorse grows about the links and open common- 
 like ground in the valley at Nuwara-Eliya, though 
 the bushes seem to grow rather taller and straighter 
 than they do in England. Instead of our lords and 
 ladies, arum lilies grow wild. Great clusters of 
 them may be seen by the sides of streams or in 
 marshy places. The woods were delightful to 
 wander in, and altogether Nuwara-Eliya might 
 make good claims to be an earthly paradise, other 
 things being equal. 
 
 We had taken our passage, however, from 
 Colombo, and were due to sail for home on the 
 2nd of March. It was now the 28th of February, 
 and we had to make our way back again, descend- 
 ing from II Paradiso to a certainly hotter region. 
 The descent by the narrow gauge railway was even 
 more striking than the ascent, the train passing 
 
308 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 through luxuriant growths of forest in which tree- 
 ferns, rhododendrons, the tea tree, and what looked 
 like a sort of box tree were abundant. 
 
 The rubber-trade in Ceylon is now being added 
 to the tree-trade, which, according to our com- 
 petitive wasteful individualistic system, has some- 
 what outgrown its profitable market. One effect 
 of this new development upon the landscape is 
 devastation, as large tracts of wild forest on the 
 
 7 o 
 
 mountain sides are being cleared by burning the 
 natural growth in the first place, and then removing 
 the stones and boulders which cumber the ground. 
 This process does not add to the beauty of the 
 scenery, nor can we expect that monotonous planta- 
 tions will be good substitutes to the eye for the 
 wild beauty and varied and luxuriant vegetation 
 they displace. 
 
 The Englishman in Ceylon seems to think of 
 nothing but profit-making, however, like many of his 
 race elsewhere ; and is probably often even unaware 
 of the beauty he destroys for commercial reasons, 
 and he is always able to import cheap coolie labour 
 from India to carry out his schemes. 
 
 The Cingalese native it seems is unwilling to 
 work, or probably has not the physique for heavy 
 field labour, so he prefers to live the natural life 
 of his country so far as he is allowed by his new 
 masters, and of course is denounced as a lazy dog. 
 
 Ceylon, indeed, one cannot help reflecting must 
 have been a delightful paradise, if somewhat warm 
 in parts, for its own people, before they were 
 interfered with by western civilisation, with its 
 pushful commerce, and missions, bringing in their 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 
 
 309 
 
 train poverty and disease, and the struggle for 
 existence, in a land naturally fruitful and bountiful, 
 and able to support its inhabitants without any 
 special efforts on their part. 
 
 The planters are now clamouring for railway 
 
 TEA AND RUBBER IN CEYLON — A RISING INDUSTRY 
 
 extension. In an interview which the Editor of 
 The Ceylon Times sought with me I gathered 
 that there was considerable discontent with the 
 Home Government, who, he asserted, had derived 
 greatly increased revenues from the extension of 
 rubber planting and the new development of the 
 industry, but who would not grant money for the 
 desired extensions, the advice given by the 
 present secretary for the colonies being to the 
 
310 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 effect that the Ceylon people should save their 
 money, or "put by for a rainy day." 
 
 Of course the Editor's point of view was that of 
 the capitalist, and that the more the country was 
 opened up the better, and he did not care to consider 
 the effects of the ultimate outcome of the monolopy 
 which absorbs the results of and succeeds com- 
 mercial competition. 
 
 He spoke, however, incidentally of the increase 
 of poverty — poverty in such a land ! — and that 
 there was no poor law yet. He said the Cingalese 
 would not work, and had even neglected the 
 irrigation machinery which had been set up by the 
 planters for their benefit, in obedience to the 
 requirements of the home government. 
 
 This would seem to show the difficulty of in- 
 troducing ostensible benefits in a primitive country 
 which has not reached the necessary stage of 
 development to be able to take advantage of, or 
 really to utilise, modern methods. From the point 
 of view of the simple native no doubt there does 
 not appear to be any reason why he should change 
 the habits and customs of his race simply for the 
 benefit of foreign settlers whose chief object is to 
 exploit him. 
 
 Changing trains at Nanu-oya we were again 
 greatly impressed by the splendour of the scenery 
 traversed. For a great part of the distance towards 
 Kandy and Colombo, the line passes through a 
 mountainous district, at a high altitude, gradually 
 descending, the line following the contours of the 
 hill-sides for the most part, though tunnelled occa- 
 sionally. One looks across a wide valley with 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 311 
 
 distant mountain ranges, ridge beyond ridge, in 
 marked and emphatic outlines, and occasionally 
 abrupt precipices — the sharp conical summit of 
 Adam's Peak conspicuous among them. The 
 hill-sides are largely covered with tea-plantations, 
 but the railway also passes through wild bush and 
 forest, and high above one may see great towering 
 crags of limestone and gritstone. Mountain 
 streams are frequently crossed, and these break 
 into cascades and falls among tumbled black rocks ; 
 great boulders frequently strew the mountain slopes 
 as if tumbled by Titans among the foliage. There 
 is occasionally a suggestion of Derbyshire scenery 
 here and there, but on a grander scale. 
 
 After Kandy the line descends still more till we 
 reach the palm groves again, the river, and the 
 lakes, and the heat of Colombo again. This time 
 on returning we put up at the G.O. H., which is 
 conveniently near the pier or departure stage for 
 the steamers. 
 
 Here we met Mr Cyril Holman Hunt again, and 
 were introduced to several of his planter friends, 
 who were very agreeable. There is a delightful 
 garden of palms and tropical plants here, which is 
 a pleasant resort in the cool of the evenings. With 
 Mr Hunt we visited the Colombo Museum, which 
 was courteously opened specially for us, it not being 
 a public day. Here in a glass case and alive some 
 extraordinary leaf-insects arrested our attention. 
 They were feeding on green leaves, which they 
 exactly resembled in colour, form, and texture, so 
 that it would be most difficult to tell which was 
 leaf and which was insect without closely watching 
 
3 i2 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 them. The young ones were like the red shoots 
 of a plant, but the mature insects were quite green 
 and quite flat like a leaf while showing the ribs and 
 veinings. One could hardly have believed that 
 nature, deceptive and imitative as she is, could have 
 been capable of such a trick. I remember that a 
 native at Kandy had shown me one of the green 
 leaf insects in a box, but I thought it was an 
 artificial thing, which indeed it looks. 
 
 On the staircase were some copies of exceedingly 
 interesting ancient Cingalese fresco-paintings from 
 caves, resembling ancient Indian work in style, but 
 in some instances showing a certain freedom in 
 handling, the brush outline recalling later Greek 
 vase-painting. 
 
 There were excellent collections of native 
 Cingalese decorative art in jewellery, silver work, 
 and ivory-carving, of which latter craft some combs 
 were the most delicate and interesting. There 
 were also block-printed stuffs similar to the Indian 
 hand-printed cottons. Among the jewellery, the 
 necklaces of garnets and other stones set in filagree 
 gold were characteristic. There were models of 
 native boats of which there are several interesting 
 varieties, and these were exceptionally good life- 
 sized models of types of the aboriginal inhabitants 
 (the Veddas) — the wild bush-tribes of Ceylon. 
 
 The natural history department was very 
 complete, and the whole museum judiciously com- 
 prehended the history, natural and archaeological, 
 of the island, and included some highly interesting 
 Greco-Buddhistic sculptured remains, not so fine in 
 style as those we had seen at Sarnath, but there 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 
 
 v^v) 
 
 was the same type of standing figure in drapery- 
 expressing the lines of the figure, and also portions 
 of an " umbrella," showing a similar arrangement 
 to the one at Sarnath, with the lotus flower centre, 
 and the series of concentric rings of ornament 
 containing the images of the lion, the horse, the ox, 
 and the elephant in sunk relief. There was also a 
 zoological collection attached to the museum in 
 sheds and aviaries outside the main building — live 
 animals and birds, including leopards, jackals, 
 monkeys, flamingoes, pelicans, and a collection of 
 small birds, minas, doves, etc. 
 
 The time, however, for our departure from 
 Colombo drew near. Our steamer the Tourane 
 of the Messageries Maritime line arrived punctually 
 on March the 2nd, calling at Colombo on her 
 homeward voyage from China, and the same 
 evening saw us aboard. 
 
 We made our adieus, and our steamer cast off, 
 or rather weighed anchor, about sunset, and we 
 were soon under way. The dinner-bell rang at 
 6.30, and going on deck afterwards we saw the last 
 of Colombo — a mere thread of glittering beads of 
 light on the horizon, and soon lost in the darkness 
 of night. 
 
 There was a large proportion of French people 
 among the passengers, and they were chiefly officials 
 and their families returning on leave from Chinese 
 stations. They were exceedingly gay and lively, 
 and always had plenty of conversation. It was 
 like a continual comedy going on with much variety 
 of character. 
 
 On the 7th day, after a voyage of undisturbed 
 
3H INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 serenity over the Indian ocean, the blueness of 
 the sea varied only by the steamer's track, and the 
 foam dancing" into rainbows, with flying fish, or an 
 occasional turtle, or an albatross or two, which 
 flapped heavily after us, we sighted Aden, and 
 rounded the striking rocky coast to cast anchor off 
 the port. Here the tugs brought up the coal 
 lighters, and the cargo boats, and the swarm of 
 Soumalis, as before, and the usual bazaar on deck 
 took place, and the hauling of the coal and cargo 
 went on all through the night — the clamours of the 
 coolies being- occasionally fiendish, and the din was 
 often punctuated by bangs on an iron bar, which 
 sent a shiver through the ship. This was the 
 method of oivinof warning to the man engaged i n 
 the loading operations in the hold. We afterwards 
 learned that two poor coolies had lost their lives 
 by venturing into the hold before it had been 
 ventilated, and the air was so foul as to suffocate 
 them, and a ship's officer who went to their rescue 
 also became insensible for a time. It seemed much 
 hotter, too, now the ship was stationary. 
 
 Artillery practice was going on from the fort the 
 next morning, and we could see the shots strike the 
 water. We did not get clear of Aden till about 
 10 a.m., but at last the swarm of boats and swarthy 
 Soumalis left us, and the Tourane entered on her 
 course through the Red Sea, and in due time 
 passed Mocha (to starboard) and Perim (to port) 
 and the Arabian coast, the sea churned into foam 
 by the steamer flashed with phosphorescence at 
 night, — the effect in the wake of the vessel being 
 very beautiful, green sparks appearing and floating 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 315 
 
 on the surface, and globes of subdued light glowed 
 under the fleeting foam, rapidly swept along and 
 lost in the darkness of the night lit only by stars — 
 among which the Great Bear showed how much we 
 had altered our latitude. 
 
 The heat continued very great for three days 
 after leaving Aden, when it rather suddenly grew 
 cooler, and by the time we passed " the Brothers " 
 towards evening on the 1 2th of March, the weather 
 grew quite grey and cloudy with a cold wind. 
 
 We reached Suez early on the morning of the 
 1 3th, and here it was fine and bright again, though 
 the air felt thin and cool. The colour of the water 
 had changed, too, and was now a fine clear 
 turquoise — precisely the colour of the Egyptian 
 glass bracelets, but dark blue on the horizon and 
 against the land, which looked pink. 
 
 The drama of the official tug and the cargo boats 
 was again performed, and there was much hoisting 
 of coffee-bags, in and out, and a taking of fresh pro- 
 visions on board. The Traders came aboard, too, 
 with Fez caps, bead and shell necklaces, post-cards, 
 and other trifles. It was amusing to see our French 
 friends buying the Fez freely, and not only wear- 
 ing them themselves but putting them on the heads 
 of their children. There had already been some 
 astonishing- transformations in costume on board 
 since the cooler weather set in, topis and white 
 drill being exchanged for tweed suits and caps or 
 felt hats, and, in some cases, smart official uniforms 
 with shakos. 
 
 We left Suez about the middle of the day and 
 entered the canal, the water still such a brilliant 
 
316 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 turquoise colour that the reflection in the strong 
 sunlight caused the white breasts of the sea-gulls, 
 which now followed our ship, to appear green. 
 
 MM h \ 
 
 7/WjL 
 
 & 
 
 A FEW TRIFLES THE WIFE WISHED TO BRING HOME FROM INDIA 
 
 We made some very agreeable acquaintances on 
 board, which made the time pass more quickly, and 
 we arrived at Port Said early on Friday the 14th 
 of March. The coaling this time was a compara- 
 tively clean process, the wind not being ahead as 
 before. Some few of the passengers got off for 
 
NOTES OF CEYLON 317 
 
 Egypt here, but we were soon under way again ; 
 and M. de Lesseps' large effigy, the green dome of 
 the Custom House, the steamers, the wharves, and 
 the posters of Port Said soon all faded from view 
 as we bade farewell to the East and entered the 
 Mediterranean on our way to Marseilles, the last 
 stage of our long voyage, where after some tossing 
 we had a passing vision of snow-capped Sicily, and 
 the Lipari Islands, with Stromboli still smoking 
 away ; and so, in due course, through the straits of 
 Bonifazio, with no further sea troubles, landed at 
 Marseilles on March 19, safe and sound. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Abu, Mount, 62 
 
 Adam's Peak, 302, 311 
 
 Aden, outward and homeward call 
 at, 12-15, 314 
 
 Adinath, Jain, pontiff, 131 
 
 Adyar Library, 247 
 
 Afghanistan, Amir of, preparations 
 for reception of — 
 
 At Agra, 113-114, 122; at 
 Gwalior, 135-136 
 
 Aga Khan, 29 
 
 Agra- 
 Journey to, from Jaipur, 1 12; 
 arrival — the hotel, 112-113; 
 Pearl mosque, 113 ; drive to the 
 Fort — Akbar's great gate, 113- 
 114; the Taj Mahal, 114-118 — 
 its garden, 118-119; the Jama 
 Musjid mosque, 119-120, 123; 
 drive to the mausoleum of Itmad- 
 ud-Daulat, 120; churches, 121 ; 
 bazaars, 122 ; excursion to Sik- 
 andra — tomb of Akbar, 122-125; 
 otherwise mentioned, 97, 144, 
 
 145 
 
 Ahmed Khan, 50, 51, 151 
 
 Ahmedabad — 
 
 Journey to, from Bombay, 48-49; 
 drive through the city, 49 et 
 seq. ; mosques, 49-53 ; cotton 
 factories, 55 ; bazaar and street 
 life, 55-58 ; native pottery, 58 ; 
 railway station, 62 
 
 Ajmir — 
 
 Journey to, from Ahmedabad, 
 62-63 ; Akbar Fort, 64-65 ; 
 bazaars, 65-66, 70 ; the Uargah, 
 66-68 ; fort of Targarh, 67 ; 
 mosque of Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, 
 68 ; Daulat Bagh, 68-69 5 can- 
 tonments outside the native city, 
 69-70 ; custom of nailing horse- 
 shoes on the doors, 80 
 
 Akbar, Emperor, 64, 131, 155, 177 ; 
 tomb of, at Sikandra, 156 
 
 Alviella, Count Goblet d', 41 
 
 Alexandra, Queen, 13, 261 
 
 Altamash, 68 
 
 Altamsh, 157 
 
 Alu-ud-din, 80 
 
 Amber, deserted city and palace, 106-7 
 
 American tourists, 76, 84, 96-97, 134 
 
 Ammayanayakanur, 276 
 
 Amritzar — 
 
 Journey to, from Delhi, 161-162; 
 hotel touts, 162-163 '■> t' :e hotel, 
 163-164; drive through the — its 
 open drains, 164 ; the Golden 
 Temple, 165-166; carpet manu- 
 factory, 166-167 '- interview with 
 a native pedlar, 167-169 ; the 
 Atal tower, 169; public gardens, 
 169 ; departure for Lahore, 170 
 
 Anderson, Colonel, 185 
 
 Arab dhow, 15 
 
 Arabian coast, 12, 314 
 
 Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, mosque of, 68 
 
 Arjamand Bann, 117 
 
 Arnold, Sir Edwin, 118 
 
 Baker, Sir Samuel, 33 
 
 Bandakin, 1 12 
 
 Bapatia, 245 
 
 Bareilly, 45 
 
 Barielly, 184 
 
 Bearer, native, engagement of, 30-33 
 
 Bedding, need for travellers to supply 
 their own, 35, 77 
 
 Begara, 59, 60 
 
 Benares — 
 
 Arrival at — Clark's Hotel, 200, 
 216-217; fi rs t impressions, 201 ; 
 the Guest house, 201-202, 205- 
 206 ; expedition to see the Bud- 
 dist remains at Sarnath, 201- 
 205 ; viewing the Ghats from the 
 Maharajah's peacock boat, 206- 
 211; the Burning Ghat, 209-210; 
 the Manikaranika Ghat and the 
 Nepal Temple, 215-216; pil- 
 grims, 210 ; the Golden Temple, 
 211; Hindu College, 212; the 
 Monkey Temple, 212 ; visit to 
 the Maharajah in his palace, 213- 
 215 ; farewell glimpse of, 218 
 
 Bengal-Nagpur Railway, 241 
 
 3*9 
 
320 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Berhampore, 244 
 
 Besant, Mrs Annie, 212 ; visit to, at 
 Madras, 247-249 
 
 Bhutian peasants, 225-226, 235 
 
 Birdwood, Sir George, 29 
 
 Bitragunta, 245 
 
 Blavatsky, Madame, 249 
 
 Blow, Mr Detmar, 182 
 
 Bois, Mr, 290, 295 
 
 Bombay — 
 
 Impressions of, from the sea, 21; 
 the landing at, 21-23 ; Malabar 
 Hill, 21, 29-30 ; street scenes, 
 24-25 ; modern British buildings, 
 25-26 ; Crawford market, 26 ; 
 bazaar, 26-28 ; native wedding 
 processions, 27-28 ; Victoria 
 Gardens, 28-29 ; Victoria and 
 Albert Museum, 29 ; engage- 
 ment of a native servant, 30-33 ; 
 oppressive heat, 46 ; welcome of 
 M. Dadabhai Naoroji to, 46-47 ; 
 cotton factories, 55 
 
 Bonifazio, straits of, 4, 317 
 
 Brahmans, 242 
 
 British administration, benefits of, 
 discussed — causes of unrest, 141- 
 143, 190-192, 199, 309-310 
 
 "Brothers, The," lightship, 11, 315 
 
 Brown, Mr Percy, 179 
 
 Buddhism — 
 
 In Ceylon, 297 ; remains of, at 
 Samath, 201, 203-205 — the 
 Great Tope, 205 ; Temple of 
 the Tooth, 302 
 
 Buffalo cow, 36 
 
 Burmese people, discontent of, under 
 British rule, 199 
 
 Cactus plant, 75 
 
 Caine, Mr W. S., cited, 55, 109, 118, 
 
 I3i> 151 
 
 Calabrian coast, 4 
 
 Calcutta — 
 
 Races at, 29 ; National Con- 
 gress at, 46 ; journey to, from 
 Benares, 218-219; first impres- 
 sions, 219 ; the Minto Fete, 219- 
 220 ; a Hindu soothsayer at, 
 220-221 ; industrial exhibition, 
 221-222; general impressions, 
 222 ; otherwise mentioned, 198 
 
 Campbell, Colin, 189 
 
 Candia, 5 
 
 Caroline, Queen, 202 
 
 Carpet manufactory at Amritzar, 166- 
 167 
 
 Carts, native, 22-23, 55> 104-105 
 
 Cashmere travelling merchants, 181 
 
 Ceylon — 
 
 Notes of, 290 et scq. ; decora- 
 tive art of, 312 ; native costumes 
 in, 292-293, 298 ; religion of, 
 297 ; rubber trade in, 308-310 ; 
 tea-plantations of, 302-303, 305 ; 
 vegetation, luxuriant, and scen- 
 ery, 299-301, 304-307, 310-31 1 ; 
 Western civilisation — its ques- 
 tionable benefits, 297, 301, 308- 
 310 
 
 Ceylon Times, The, interview with 
 editor of, 309-310 
 
 Charybdis, 4 
 
 Chitor, city of. 77-79 
 
 Chitorgarh — 
 
 Journey to, from Ajmir, 74-75 ; 
 night spent at, 75-77 ; visit to 
 the ruined fortress, 77, 79-81 ; 
 Tower of Victo.ry, 81 ; otherwise 
 mentioned, 95, 108 
 
 Cinnamon tree, 300 
 
 Clan Campbell, s.s., 9 
 
 Clock towers, modern, in India, 194 
 
 Colombo — 
 
 Arrival at, 290-291 ; general de- 
 scription of, 291-299 ; garden of 
 palms, 311 ; museum, 31 1-313 
 
 Coromandel Coast, native costumes 
 on, 242 
 
 Corsica, 4 
 
 Costumes, native, 56, 72 ; in Southern 
 India, 241-242, 252-253 
 
 Cotton factories, 55 
 
 Cotton yarn, preparation of, for hand 
 weaving, 81 
 
 Cranes, white, 54 
 
 Crete, 5 
 
 Crows, Indian, 23 
 
 Cultivated Crops, 75 
 
 Cunningham, General, 205 
 
 Curzon, Lord, 119, 120, 122, 150 
 
 Cuttack, 241 
 
 Dacoits, 19S-199 
 
 Daulatabad, 34, 36-37, 44-45 
 
 Dargah of Ajmir, 66-68 
 
 Darjeeling — 
 
 Journey to, from Calcutta, 223- 
 226 ; toy railway, 224-225 ; 
 general description, 226-227 ; 
 Woodlands' hotel and its enter- 
 tainments — the Tibetan masque, 
 227-232 ; the town, 233-234 ; 
 walks and rides round, 235 
 
INDEX 
 
 ;2i 
 
 Dauvergne, M., 33, 44, 45 
 
 Delhi- 
 Journey to, from Agra, 146-147 ; 
 arrival — British residential quar- 
 ter — Kashmir Gate, 148-149; 
 Mutiny memorial, 149 ; the 
 palace — peacock throne, etc., 
 149-151 ; Moti Musjid (Pearl 
 mosque), 151 ; Jama Musjid 
 mosque, 15 1- 152; Jain temple, 
 152 ; the Chandni Chouk, 152- 
 154 ; excursion to the Kutab 
 Minar, 154-158 ; mosque of Shin 
 Shah, 155; Old Delhi, 155; 
 ancient city of Indrapat, 155 ; 
 tomb of Humayun, 155-156 ; 
 cemetery of Nizam-ud-din, 156- 
 157 ; driving experiences, 159- 
 160 ; departure, 161 ; otherwise 
 mentioned, 99 
 
 Delwara, 62 
 
 Digby, Mr William, 141, 191 
 
 Dindigul, 276 
 
 Dinghra, Dr, 166 
 
 Dowden, Mrs, 189, 194 
 
 Driving in India, risks of, 159 
 
 Dutt, Mr Romesh, 1 
 
 Dyeing, native methods of, 57. 104 
 
 East India Company, 131 
 
 Eastern life, influence of Western 
 ideas on, 56, 94, 141-143, 190-192, 
 199. 3 9-3io 
 
 Edward VII., 47, 261 
 
 Egyptian religion, parallelism between 
 the Hindu religion and, 258 
 
 Elephants — 
 
 Excursions on, 77-78, 82, 107 ; 
 bathing of, at Kandy, 302 
 
 Ellora, caves of — 
 
 Journey to, from Bombay, 33- ' 
 38 — and back again, 44-46 ; 
 temple of Kylas, 38-43 ; Buddhist 
 temples, 43 ; village of Ellora, 
 
 44 
 Enamel, Champleve, 179-180 
 Etna, Mount, 4 
 Everest, Mount, 235 
 
 Eamines, native, 141 
 
 Flaxman, 259 
 
 Flying fish, 15-16 
 
 Food at refreshment stations, unsatis- 
 
 factoriness of, 254 
 " Forest flame," 224 
 French tourists, 96 
 Fruit-bats, 61 
 
 Funeral, native, 93-94 
 
 Ganesha, the elephant god, 41, 81, 
 
 256 
 Ganges, scenes at the Ghats at 
 
 Benares, 206-211 ; the Burning 
 
 Ghat, 209-210 
 Gardens, Eastern type of, 100- 101 
 Girgenti, 40 
 Glass, convex-mirror-mosaic work, 
 
 87- 177 
 
 Gohad, Rana of, 131 
 
 Grace, A. F., 132 
 
 Graham, Cunninghame, 248 
 
 Gramophones in India, 99 
 
 Green ray, phenomenon of, 16 
 
 Gunj Baksh, mosque and tomb of 
 59-60 
 
 Gwalior — 
 
 Arrival at — the Guest house, 127- 
 128, 134, 136-137 ; tomb of 
 Mohammed Ghaus, 128 ; drive 
 to the Fort, 128-132; palace of 
 the Man Mandir, 129, 138 ; Jain 
 Temples, 130 ; new town (Lash- 
 kar), 131, 134-135; visi t to 
 Maharajah's palace, 132-133 ; 
 sunsets over the Rock, 137-138 ; 
 description of the old town, 138- 
 140 ; departure — scene at the 
 railway station, 144 
 
 Hail and thunder storms combined, 
 
 237 
 Hard}-, Miss, I 
 Harrison, T. Erat. 194 
 Hathi Sing, shrine of, 58 
 Herefo7-dshirc, s.s., 9 
 Himalayas — 
 
 Climbing in the, 227-229 ; snow 
 peaks of, 232-233, 237 
 Hindu and Tamil MSS., library of, 
 
 260 
 I lindus — 
 
 Educated, debarred from high 
 
 administrative posts, 142 
 Religion of— nature worship in, 
 41, 279-280; parallelism be- 
 tween the Egyptian religion 
 and, 258 
 Temples of — at Madura, 277- 
 283 ; at Seringham, 272-275 : 
 at Tanjore, 255 
 Weddings of, 27-28 
 Women, 33, 45, 104, 174 
 Hiroshigi, 20 
 Horton, Lady, 301 
 
122 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Hotel life, picturesque feature of, 
 
 85 
 Humayun, Tomb of, 155 
 Hunt, Holman, 249 
 Hunt. Mr Cyril Holman, 298, 311 
 Hunter, Capt. J. B. Dalzell, 240 
 Hunuman, Hindu god, 41 
 Hunuman, the monkey god, temple 
 
 of, at Benares, 212 
 Hyndman, Mr H. M., 142 
 
 India Office, policy of, 141-143, 190- 
 
 192, 199, 309-319 
 Indian Ocean, incidents on voyage 
 
 in, 17 
 Iqd-i-gul, or The. Rose Necklace, 240- 
 
 241 
 Irrigation wells, 170-171, 196 ; of 
 
 Southern India, 243-244 
 Ismailia, 9 
 Israelites, passage of, through the 
 
 Red Sea, 1 1 
 Ivory carver's workshop at Delhi, 
 
 153-154 
 
 Jack fruit, 300-301 
 
 jagmandir, palace of, 88-91 
 
 Jahanara Begum, 156 
 
 Jahangir, 89 
 
 Jain pontiffs, sandstone carvings of, 
 
 131 
 
 Jain sect, persecution of, 279 
 
 Jain temples at — Ajmir, 68 ; Chitor- 
 garh, 81 ; Delhi, 152 ; Gwalior, 
 130; Udaipur, 86-87 
 
 Jaipur- 
 Journey to, from Ajmir, 97 ; first 
 impressions, 97-99 ; the city, 
 •' the rose-coloured city," 99- 
 ioo, 116; bazaars, 101-102, 104- 
 105, no; enamelled jewellery 
 of, IOI, 102 ; spherical rolling 
 lamps of, 102 ; the Maharajah's 
 state elephant, 102-103 ; the 
 Maharajah's palace, 103 - 104, 
 118; street scenes, 105-106; the 
 Maharajah's horses, Iio-ill 
 
 Jehan, Shah, 69, 89, 113, 114, 119, 150 
 
 Jhansi, 145 
 
 lijibhai, Sir Jamsetji, 29 
 
 Jopling-Rowe, Mrs, 196 
 
 Jubbeheer, Island of, 12 
 
 Jugglers, native — the mango-tree 
 trick, 187-188 
 
 (uggernath— 
 
 Temple of, 86-87 : festival of the 
 Krishna at, 241 
 
 Juggernaut, pilgrims from, 242 
 Jullumpore, 161 
 
 Kali, goddess, 109 
 
 Kandy, visit to — its scenery and 
 
 foliage. 299-302 
 Khusru, 156 
 Kinchin Junga, view of, 227, 232- 
 
 233. 237 
 Kipling, Mr, 177, 179 
 Kitt>, Indian, 23-24, 1 10 
 Koh-i-noor diamond, the, 125 
 Krishna, festival of. 241 
 Kunja Sahib, shrine of, 66 
 Kutab-Minar, 157-158 
 Kutab-ud-din. 157 
 
 La Neva, s.s., 2 
 Lahore — 
 
 Journey to, from Amritzar, 170- 
 171 ; the Charing Cross hotel, 
 171 ; British residential and busi 
 ness quarter, 171- 173, 1 78-179 ; 
 native quarter, 173-175 ; bazaars, 
 175-176; the Fort, 176-177; 
 the Samadh, 178 ; jama Musjid, 
 178 ; Wazar Khan tiled mosque, 
 178, 181 ; Courts of Justice, 179 ; 
 Museum, 179-180 ; street scenes 
 in, 181 ; visit from the Princess 
 Duleep Singh, 182 ; departure 
 for Lucknow, 182-183 
 Lamps, spherical rolling, 102. 222 
 Lashkar, 131, 134-135 
 Laurence, Lord, statue of, 179 
 Laurence, Sir Henry, 192 
 Leaf insects, 311-312 
 Lesseps, M. de, 317 
 " Light of the World, The," 249 
 Lipari Islands, 317 
 Longden, Lady, 301 
 Lucknow — 
 
 Journey to. from Lahore, 183- 
 184; Wurlzler's hotel, 185; in 
 hospital, 185-186 : native jug- 
 glers — the mango-tree trick, 187- 
 188 ; ruins of the Residency, 
 189-190, 192; the Sikander 
 Bagh, 189-190; Chatter Manzel, 
 192 ; architecture of, 192-193 ; 
 Jama Musjid, 193 ; the Iambara, 
 193-195 ; bazaar of the old city, 
 194-195 ; through the bazaar on 
 elephants. 196-197 ; the Mar- 
 tiniere, 197-198 
 Lyons, 198 
 
INDEX 
 
 3^3 
 
 Macarthy, Lady, 301 
 
 Madura — 
 
 Scenery near, 276 ; visit to the 
 Great Temple, 276-283 : the 
 Temple Courts, 283 ; Teppa 
 Tank, 284 ; gigantic Banyan 
 tree, 284 ; palace of Tiramala, 
 284-285 ; silk industry, 285-286 ; 
 table decorations at, 286 
 
 Madras — 
 
 Journey to, from Calcutta, 239- 
 245 ; arrival — the Castle Hotel, 
 245-246 ; public buildings and 
 street scenes, 246-247, 249-251 ; 
 temperature at, 247 ; visit to the 
 Adyar library, 247-249 ; Toddy 
 Tappus, 249 ; jin-rickshaws, 249- 
 250; Botanic Gardens, 251 
 
 Mahmudshah, 59 
 
 Malabar Hill, 21, 29-30 
 
 Mandal, 75 
 
 Maratha chiefs, 151 
 
 Marble- 
 Piercing patterns in, 64-65; 
 suitability of Indian climate for 
 preserving, 69 
 
 Marseilles, 2, 317 
 
 Martin, General or Captain — 
 
 Painting of, 193 ; schools founded 
 by, 197-198 
 
 Mayo, Lord, 100 
 
 Mecca, sign of having visited, on 
 house walls, 8 
 
 Messina, 4 
 
 Migration of Symbols (d'Alviella), 
 cited, 41-42 
 
 Mirza Jahangir, tomb of, 156 
 
 Missionaries, indifference of, to native 
 religions, 275. 297 
 
 Mocha, 12, 314 
 
 Mogul Emperors, private chapel of, 
 
 H3 
 
 Mogul Serai, 218 
 Mohammedans — 
 
 Educated, debarred from high 
 administrative posts, 142 
 
 Tombs of, 8, 59-60 
 
 Weddings among the. 27 
 
 Women, 104, 174-175 
 Mongolian peasants, 225-226 
 Monkeys, silver grey, 53, 59 
 Moonsawmy, 33, 1 25- 1 26, 183 
 Mori, 63 
 
 Morley, Mr John, 142 
 Moses, well of, 11 
 Moti Musjid, 113 
 Mulich. Dr. 1 
 
 Munmad, a night at, 34-36, 45 
 
 Muslin, native method of printing on, 
 70 
 
 Mussulman mosque of Arhai-din-ka- 
 Thonpra, 68 
 
 Mutiny, memorials of, 189-190; pro- 
 vocative causes of, 190 
 
 Nadir Shah, 151 
 
 Naoroji, M. Dadabhi, welcome of, to 
 
 Bombay, 46-47 
 Naisirabad, 74 
 Nanu-oya, 303, 310 
 Nelson, Lord, bust of, 260 
 Xemnath, Jain pontiff, 131 
 Nizam of Hyderabad, 36, 38 
 Nizam-ud-din, cemetery of, 1 56-157 
 Nuwara-Eliya, 302 ; scenery at, 304- 
 
 305 ; the Magdala Gardens, 305- 
 
 307 
 
 Olcott, Colonel, 212. 247, 249 
 
 Parsees — 
 
 Burial place of, 30 
 
 Merchant, description of, 24 
 
 Weddings among, 28 
 Parvati, goddess, 41, 109, 256 
 Paul, Lieutenant, 198 
 Perrim, 12. 314 
 Picturesque India (W. S. Caine), 
 
 quoted, 151 
 Pillai, Mr, 277-278 
 Pillour, 161 
 Plague, bubonic, 141 
 Ploughs, native, 74-75, 140 
 Ploughman, native, earnings of, 140 
 Poori, 241 
 Port Said, 316 
 
 Poverty of natives, 140-141, 143 
 Prang, Mr Louis, and Mrs Prang, 
 
 235-236 
 Prosperous British India (Digby), 
 cited, 141, 191 
 
 Rai, Mr Laipat, 142 
 
 Railway travelling in India- 
 Facilities for. 48-49 : native 
 travellers. 70-72 
 
 Rajpootana, 63, 77, 79 
 
 Ramayana, I 
 
 Rani Sipri, mosque of, 51 
 
 Readymoney, Sir Cowasji Jehangir, 
 29 
 
 Red Sea, passage of, 11-12, 314 
 
 Rena, s.s., IO 
 
 Rhododendron. Cingalese, 306 
 
;24 
 
 INDIA IMPRESSIONS 
 
 Rozah — 
 
 Drive to, from Daulatabad, 36- 
 37 ; description of a nisjht at, XI- 
 38 
 
 Rubber trade of Ceylon, 308-310 
 
 Russia, Czar of, 206, 282 
 
 Ryot, Indian, average earnings of, 
 141 
 
 Said, Port, visit to, 5-9 
 Salaams, custom as to, 73 
 Sara, crossing the Ganges at, 223- 
 224, 237 
 
 Sarbarmati River, scenes on, 53-^4. 
 58 : 59 
 
 Sardinia, 4 
 
 Sarkhai, excursion to, 58-61 
 
 Saunders, Mr and Mrs, 197 
 
 Scott, Mr Ross, 188, 19S 
 
 Schwartz, 259 
 
 Scylla, 4 
 
 Seringham — 
 
 Religious procession at, 282 ; 
 Temple of, 272-275 
 
 Shaw, G. Bernard, 248 
 
 Sheep, fat-tailed, 176 
 
 Sicily, 4, 317 
 
 Sidi Sayyid's Mosque, 51-52 
 
 Sikandra, excursion to — tomb of 
 Akbar, 122-125 
 
 Sikhs, religious centre of, 166 
 
 Silignis. 225-226 
 
 Silk-weaving at - 
 
 Ahmedabad, 55, 56 ; Yiziana- 
 gram, 244 ; Tanjore, 262 ; 
 Madura, 285-286 
 
 Silver Lake, 242 
 
 Sinai, Mount, 11 
 
 Sindhia, 131 
 
 Singh, Princess Duleep, 181- 182 
 
 Siva, god — 
 
 Representations of, at Madura, 
 278, 279, 280, 281, 283; sacred 
 bull of, 255-256 ; sacred mark of, 
 2 42, 253 ; otherwise mentioned, 
 41, 109, 256 
 
 passage through 9-10, 
 
 Sketchin 
 
 284 
 
 Sorabji, Miss, 220 
 Soumalis at Aden 
 
 native interest in, 28- 
 
 13-15 
 
 South Kensington, Indian museum 
 
 at, 52 
 Spartivento, Cape, 4 
 Squirrels, palm, 36, 59, 136 
 Stromboli, 317 
 Suez, call at, 10, 315 
 
 Suez Canal, 
 , 315-316 
 Sun, eclipse of, 167 
 
 ' Table decorations of Southern india 
 286 
 Taj Mahal- 
 Visit to, and account of, 114-118 ; 
 gardens of, 118-119; compared 
 with the Itmad-ud-Daulat, 120 ; 
 moonlight visit to, 120-121 ; 
 sketches of. 121 
 Tamils, 297 
 Tanjore — 
 
 Journey to, from Madras. 251- 
 254 ; accommodation at, 254-255, 
 269 ; the old fort and Hindu 
 Temple, 255-258 ; religious pro- 
 cession at, 258 ; Christian church 
 at, 258-259 ; palace of the Maha- 
 rajah, 259-261 ; description of— 
 street scenes, etc., 261-264; de- 
 cline of Western influence at, 
 263 ; native theatre. 264-268 ; 
 native pedlars— Tanjore crafts- 
 manship, 268-269 > water carry- 
 ing, 270 
 Taormina, 4 
 Taragarh, Fort of, 67 
 Tea, Ceylon, colour of beverage, 
 
 305 
 Tea plantations of Ceylon, 302-305 
 Theatre, native, at Tanjore, 264-268 
 Theosophical Society, headquarters, 
 
 247 
 Threshing of grain, native methods, 
 
 252 
 Thull Ghat, 34 
 Tibetan fat-tailed sheep, 176 
 Tibetan masque at Darjeeling. 229- 
 
 232 
 Tiled mosques, 178 
 Tourane, s.s., 313 
 Trinchinopoly- 
 
 Arrival at — general impressions, 
 270-272, 275 ; visit to the temple 
 of Seringham, 272 - 275 ; the 
 Rock of Trinchinopoly, 275 
 Tuticorin, 2S7-289 
 " Twelve Apostles, The," 12 
 
 LID Ul'UR — 
 
 Native group from, 76 ; journey 
 to, from Chitorgarh, 82-83; 
 hotel experiences. 83-84 ; place 
 of tombs, S5-86 ; palace of the 
 Maharajah, 87-88 ; excursion to 
 the palace of fagmandin. 88-91 ; 
 
INDEX 
 
 325 
 
 feeding of the Maharajah's wild 
 pigs, 91-92; the Maharajah's 
 gardens, 93 ; Victoria Institute, 
 93 ; departure from — the station, 
 
 94-95 
 Umballa, 161, 183 
 
 VlLLUPARAM, 254 
 
 Vishnu, 86, 272, 273 
 Vizianagram, 244 
 
 Voyages out and home, descriptions 
 of, 1-20, 3 I 3-3 I 7 
 
 Wales, Prince and Princess, 167, 
 206, 282 
 
 Waltair, 244 
 
 Water filter and water hearers at 
 
 railway stations, 75 
 Watts, G. F., 76 
 Wax, raised designs of, on textiles, 
 
 179 
 Webb, Sidney, 248 
 Wedding processions in Bombay. 27- 
 
 28 
 Western civilisation, questionable 
 
 value of, 94, 308-310 
 Women, native, costumes of, 105, 
 
 174-175 
 
 Zebu bulls, 256, 280 
 
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 Pauline ; Pascal Bruno ; and Bonteko&- 
 
 Pere la Ruine. 
 
 The Prince of Thieves. 
 
 The Reminiscences of Anton*. 
 
 Robin Hood. 
 
 Samuel Gelb. 
 
 The Snowball and the Sultanetta, 
 
 Sylvandire. 
 
 The Taking of Calais. 
 
 Tales of the Supernatural. 
 
 Tales of Strange Adventure, 
 
 Tales of Terror. 
 
 The Three Musketeers. (Double volume.) 
 
 The Tragedy of Nantes. 
 
 Twenty Years After. (Double volume.) 
 
 The Wild-Duck Shooter. 
 
 The Wolf-Leadeh. 
 
 Methuen's Sixpenny Books. 
 
 Medium Svo. 
 
 Albanesi (E. Maria). LOVE AND 
 
 LOUISA. 
 I KNOW A MAIDEN. 
 Anstey (F.). A BAYARD OF BENGAL. 
 Austen (J.). PRIDE AND PREJUDICE. 
 Bagot (Richard). A ROMAN MYSTERY. 
 CASTING OF NETS. 
 DONNA DIANA. 
 
 Balfoup (Andrew). BY STROKE OF 
 SWORD. 
 
 Baring-Gould (SO. FURZE BLOOM 
 
 CHEAP JACK ZITA. 
 
 KITTY ALONE. 
 
 URITH. 
 
 THE BROOM SQUIRE. 
 
 IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. 
 
 NOEMI. 
 
 A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. Illustrated. 
 
 LITTLE TU'PENNY. 
 
 WINEFRED. 
 
 THE FROBISHERS. 
 
 THE QUEEN OF LOVE 
 
30 
 
 Methuen and Company Limited 
 
 ARMINELL. 
 
 BLADYS OF THE STEWPONEY. 
 
 Barp (Robert). JENNIE BAXTER. 
 IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. 
 THE COUNTESS TEKLA. 
 THE MUTABLE MANY. 
 
 Benson (E. F.). DODO. 
 THE VINTAGE. 
 
 Bronte (Charlotte). SHIRLEY. 
 
 Brownell (C L.). THE HEART OF 
 JAPAN. 
 
 Burton (J. Bloundelle). ACROSS THE 
 SALT SEAS. 
 
 Caffyn (Mrs.). ANNE MAULEVERER. 
 
 Capes (Bernard). THE LAKE OF 
 
 WINE. 
 
 Clifford (Mrs. W. K.). A FLASH OF 
 
 SUMMER. 
 MRS. KEITH'S CRIME. 
 
 Corbett (Julian) A BUSINESS IN 
 GREAT WATERS. 
 
 Croker (Mrs. B. M.). ANGEL. 
 A STATE SECRET. 
 PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. 
 JOHANNA. 
 
 Dante (Alighleri). THE DIVINE 
 
 COMEDY (Cary). 
 
 Doyle (A. Conan). ROUND THE RED 
 LAMP. 
 
 Duncan (Sara Jeannette). A VOYAGE 
 
 OF CONSOLATION. 
 THOSE DELIGHTFUL AMERICANS. 
 
 Eliot (George). THE MILL ON THE 
 FLOSS. 
 
 Findlater (Jane H-). THE GREEN 
 GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE. 
 
 Gallon (Tom). RICKERBY'S FOLLY. 
 
 Gaskell (Mrs). CRANFORD. 
 MARY BARTON. 
 NORTH AND SOUTH. 
 
 Gerard (Dorothea). HOLY MATRI- 
 MONY. 
 THE CONQUEST OF LONDON. 
 MADE OF MONEY. 
 
 Gissing (G.). THE TOWN TRAVELLER. 
 THE CROWN OF LIFE. 
 
 Glanville (Ernest). THE INCA'S 
 TREASURE. 
 
 THE KLOOF BRIDlfc. 
 
 Gleig (Charles). BUNTER'S CRUISE. 
 
 Grimm (The Brothers). GRIMM'S 
 FAIRY TALES. 
 
 Hope (Anthony). A MAN OF MARK. 
 
 A CHANGE OF AIR. 
 
 THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT 
 
 ANTONIO. 
 PHROSO. 
 THE DOLLY DIALOGUES. 
 
 Hornung (E. W.). DEAD MEN TELL 
 NO TALES. 
 
 Ingraham (J. H.). THE THRONE OF 
 DAVID. 
 
 Le Queux (W.). THE HUNCHBACK 
 OF WESTMINSTER. 
 
 Levett- Yeats (S. K.). THE TRAITOR'S 
 
 WAY. 
 ORRAIN. 
 
 Linton (E. Lynn). THE TRUE HIS- 
 TORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON. 
 
 Lyall (Edna). DERRICK VAUGHAN. 
 
 Malet (Lucas). THE CARISSIMA. 
 A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION. 
 
 Mann (Mrs. M. E.). MRS. PETER 
 
 HOWARD. 
 A LOST ESTATE. 
 THE CEDAR STAR. 
 ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS. 
 THE PATTEN EXPERIMENT. 
 A WINTER'S TALE. 
 
 Marchmont (A. W.). MISER HOAD- 
 
 LEY'S SECRET. 
 A MOMENT'S ERROR. 
 
 Marryat (Captain). PETER SIMPLE. 
 JACOB FAITHFUL. 
 
 March (Richard). A METAMORPHOSIS. 
 THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE 
 THE GODDESS. 
 THE JOSS. 
 
 Mason (A. E. W.). CLEMENTINA. 
 
 Mathers (Helen). HONEY. 
 
 GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT. 
 
 SAM'S SWEETHEART. 
 
 THE FERRYMAN. 
 
 Meade (Mrs. L. T.). DRIFT. 
 
 Miller (Esther). . LIVING LIES. 
 
 Mitford (Bertram). THE SIGN OF THE 
 SPIDER. 
 
 Montresor (F. F.). THE ALIEN. 
 
Fiction 
 
 3i 
 
 Morrison (Arthur). THE HOLE IN 
 THE WALL. 
 
 Nesbit (E.). THE RED HOUSE 
 
 Norris (W. E.). HIS GRACE. 
 GILES INGILBY. 
 
 THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY. 
 LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS. 
 MATTHEW AUSTEN. 
 CLARISSA FURIOSA. 
 
 Oliphant (Mrs.). THE LADY'S WALK 
 SIR ROBERT'S FORTUNE. 
 THE PRODIGALS. 
 THE TWO MARYS. 
 
 Oppenheim (E. P.). MASTER OF MEN. 
 
 Parker (Gilbert). THE POMP OF THE 
 
 LAVILETTES. 
 WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC. 
 THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. 
 
 Pemberton (Max). THE FOOTSTEPS 
 
 OF A THRONE. 
 I CROWN THEE KING. 
 
 Phillpotts (Eden). THE HUMAN BOY- 
 CHILDREN OF THE MIST. 
 THE POACHER'S WIFE. 
 THE RIVER. 
 
 •Q' (A. T. Quiller Couch). THE 
 
 WHITE WOLF. 
 
 Ridge (W. Pett). A SON OF THE STATE. 
 
 LOST PROPERTY. 
 
 GEORGE aud THE GENERAL. 
 
 ERB. 
 
 Russell (W. Clark). ABANDONED. 
 
 A MARRIAGE AT SEA. 
 
 MY DANISH SWEETHEART. 
 
 HIS ISLAND PRINCESS. 
 
 Sergeant (Adeline). THE MASTER OF 
 
 BEECHWOOD. 
 BALBARA'S MONEY. 
 THE YELLOW DIAMOND. 
 THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME. 
 
 Sidgwiek (Mrs. Alfred). THE KINS- 
 
 MAN. 
 
 Surtees (R. S.). HANDLEY CROSS. 
 MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. 
 ASK MAMMA. 
 
 Walford (Mrs. L. B.). MR. SMITH. 
 
 COUSINS. 
 
 THE BABY'S GRANDMOTHER. 
 
 TROUBLESOME DAUGHTERS. 
 
 Wallace (General Lew). BEN-HUR 
 THE FAIR GOD. 
 
 Watson (H. B. Marriott). THE ADVEN- 
 TURERS. 
 
 •CAPTAIN FORTUNE. 
 
 Weekes (A. B.). PRISONERS OF WAR. 
 
 Wells (H. G.). THE SEA LADY. 
 
 White (Percy). A PASSIONATE PIL- 
 GRIM. 
 
FRINTED BY 
 
 WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 
 LONDON AND BECCLES. 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED 
 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or 
 
 on the date to which renewed. 
 
 Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 
 
 , 180W59PC 
 
 
 ' — v . 
 
 
 •; ■ " 
 
 
 LIZ 1 8 19o9 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t r» oi a sn™ a t;q General Library 
 R i 7 9V1 n^'fti University of California 
 (A1724sl0)476B Berkeley 
 
YD 09 
 
 to 
 
 2131G0