t^ / UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. & m w /^.- I th£ AMBULATOR; OR, A POCKET COMPANION FOR THE TOUR OF LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, WITHIN THE CIRCUIT OF TWENTY-FIVE MILES: DESCRIPTIVE OF THE OBJECTS MOST REMARKABLE FOR GRANDEUR, ELEGANCE, TASTE, LOCAL REAUTV, AND ANTIQUITY. ILLUSTRATED BY ANECDOTES, HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL; AND KMBELUSHED WITH FOURTEEN ELEGANT ENGRAVINGS, AND A CORRECT MAP. LONDON— opulent. rnl.'.r2cd, and still Incirasiug LONDON— Babylon of old Not more tin glory oF i!io earth than she. A more accoinplish'd World's chief glorv now ! Thf. villas with wnicli LONDON ^taudsbrgirt. Like a swarth Indian with his belt of beads. Prove it! COWFER. fVITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS A^D 1 M PROrEMENTS. LONDON: PRINTED FOR SCATCHERD AND LETTER MAN ; VVILKIE AND ROBINSON; LONG- MAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN J C. LAW J J.HARRIS; JOHN RICHARDSON; J. ASPERNEJ T. HUGHES^ J, CAWTHORNE J T. UNDER- WOOD ; AND GALE AND CURTIS. 1811. PHINTED BY WJUrriVGHAM AND ROMTLAND, C(fswcU Street. STACK ANNEX ft 4^ 1911 ADVERTISEMENT. JL HE Proprietors of the Ambulator, desirous of ren- dering it as perfect as possible, xvill be happy to receive hifortnation both respecting the change of property that may occur from time to time, and the errors or omissions that may be noticed relating to Gentlemen's Seats, or re- markable Places, either in regard to their situations, prospects, antiquities, curiosities, paintings, ^c. ; or other'vbise interesting, in respect to their history, or the biography of distinguished persons. Letters addressed to Scatcherd and Letterman^ Ave-Maria Lane, i\iiU receive due attention. PREFACE TO THE TENTH EDITION. It is unnecessary to expatiate upon the utility of a Work which has passed through so many editions, and has enjoyed so large a portion of the public approbation. Most country towns, with their vicinities, have their re- spective Guides- — so truly acceptable are publications of this kind to the generaUty of mankind. The Metropolis of the British Empire, therefore, with its adjacent vil- lages, is, in this respect, entitled to special distinction. Royal palaces, magnificent seats, and elegant villas, en- riched by the finest paintings, by inestimable antiques, by venerable decorations of ancient splendour, or by the exquisite embellishments of modern taste, yield an inex- haustible gratification to the curiosity. Indeed, to assist the inhabitants of the Metropolis, or its occasional visitors, in the choice ot their excursions, is a principal object of this Publication. With this \'iew, the Editor has described not only whatever he found cu- rious in the works of Nature or of Art, but where any place has been distinguished by some memorable cir- cumstance, he has not forgotten how much the incidental recollection of it may improve the sources of conversa- tion, nor what pleasure a well-cultivated mind may de- rive from contemplating the favourite retreats of the be- nefactors and ornaments of mankind — where the states- man mused, in solitude, on the welfare of his country, or meditated on the instability of sublunary grandeur; where the philosopher enriched the age with his sublime dis- coveries ; or the po€t " informed the page with music, image, sentiment, and thought ;'' where a Richard Crontr^ PREFACE. well preferred the scenes of iunocence and peace to all the glory of guilty greatness ; where a Lyttelton rieceived the first convictions of rehgious truth ; or an Addison exemphfied, in a happy death, the pleasures and impor- tance of a virtuous life ! It is natural to view such scenes with a degree of enthusiasm, and to consider the ground we tread as almost sacred. Such spots interest the imagi- nation and impress the heart. The fluctuations of property, as was expected, have rendered many alterations indispensable in the present edition of this Work. Of these the Editor has endea- voured to procure accurate information. Besides all the corrections to the present day, the additions and improve- ments have been so numerous, that this edition may be almost considered as a new work ; and in none of the articles will such information be sought for in vain, as can reasonably be expected in a work professedly in- tended as a Pocket Companion. The Editor, however, in justice to himself, cannot but remark, that he is aware that even his utmost endeavours have not secured a strict accuraci/. In a volume of this kind it is absolutely unattainable. Gentlemen's seats are perpetually changing their possessors, either through that rage for speculation by which the age is distinguished, or through the depredations of the last foe, who spares no one class of society. In either cases, a few months effect a considerable alteration ; such is the evanescent com- plexion of this ever-changing world ! The improvement of the Work will constantly be kept in view, whereby every future edition will be rendered still more worthy of the public favour. Ulinstony Nov. 27, 1S06. ADVERTISEMENT lO -THE ELEVENTH EDITION. As it has been the wish of the Editor and Pro- prietors to render the Ambulator still more deserv* ing of the patronage hy which it has been ever dis- tinguished, many additional subjects are inserted in this Edition, intimately connected with Topogra- phy, History, and Biography: the bearings and distances of the respective places are given from the best authorities; and although it contain more iiv formation and amusement, yet so strict an attention has beenpaid to its utility as a pocket companion, that in size it does not exceed any former impres- sion. Chismck, Oct. Ath, 1810. DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. The Map to face the Title Alban's (St.) Abbey Page 29 Eton College lOi Gravesend and Tilbury Fort 107 Greenwich Hospital jjl Hampton Court , 129 Hatfield House, the seat of the Marquis of Salisbury 134 Holland House, Kensington 140 Knole, near Sevenoaks, the seat of the Duke of Dorset 161 Oatlands, the seat of the Duke of York 197 Richmond 217 Severndroog Castle, Shooters' Hill 228 Straav BERRY HiLL, the seat of the Hon. Mrs. Darner 239 "Wanstead House, the seat of Miss Long 278 Windsor Castle 292 A CONCISE ACCOUNT ORIGIN AND EXTENT. LONDON was a considerable, opulent, and commercial city in the reign of the Emperor Nero. It is represented as such by Tacitus ; and Aniniianiis Marcellinus, who wrote in the reign of Julian the Apostate, calls it " vetustumoppidum, an ancient city." Its Roman names were Londinum, or Londinium, and Augusta*. The first is still retained hi its modern appella- tion : the last is the favourite of the poets. Thus Congreve: Rise, fair Augusta, lift thy head; With golden towers thy front adorn: Thy lovely form, and fresh-reviving state. In crystal flood of Thames survey ! And Thomson apostrophises London by the title of Augusta in his inimitable Seasons. The metropolis of Great Britain, one of the largest and most opulent in the world, consists of the cities of London and West- minster, and of the borough of Southwark. The two former being situated on a gentle ascent on the north side of the Thames ; and the latter on the opposite bank, in a level, and once very marshy ground. The extent of the whole, from Limehouse and Deptford to Milbank and Vauxhall, is above seven miles; but the greatest breadth is only three miles. The curious reader, who * Augusta was a name given to seventy cities in the Roman pro- vinces, in honour of Augustus. Hence London, as the capital of the Trinobantes, in Britain, was called Augusta Trinobantina. B 2 LONDON. would contrast the ancient state of London with its present great extent, may find amusement, by consulting Fitz-Siephen's ac- count of it/in the reigu of Henry IL ; the plan of London as it existed in the time of Queen Ehzabeth ; and Mr. Pennant's " Account of London." But of this wonderful contrast some idea may be foniied, Irom an anecdote of the hite Earl of Bur- lington : " That nobleman being asked, why he built his house in Piccadilly, so ^iir out of town 1" answered, " because he Avas de- termined he would have no building beyond him !" Little more than half a centurj' has so inclosed Burlington House with new streets, that it is now in the heart of that part of the town ! GOVERNMENT. London, considered in this extensive view as the Metropo- lis of the Empire, consists of the City, properly so called; the city of Westminster; the suburbs in the county of Middlesex; and the borough of Southwark. The City, with Southwark, is divided into twenty-six wards, each governed by an Alderman. From the Aldermen, the chief magistrate, the Lord Mayor, is annually chosen. There are like- wise 236 Comracn-Councilmcn, who sit in one court with the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, and thus form, as it were, the city parliament, which enacts the bye laws and regulations of the Corporation. There are likewise a Recorder, a Common Ser- jeant, two Sheriffs, (who are also Sheriffs of IMiddlesex) a Cham- berlain, Town Clerk, City Remembrancer, Water Bailiff, and many inferior oflicers. The city used to be adorned, or rather encumbered, with several Gates, all of which have been pulled down, excepting St. John's Gate, and Temple Bar, since the com- mencement of the present reign. Westminster, which was once a mile from London, but now united to it, is a distinct city, the government of which, both civil and ecclesiastical, was once vested in the Abbot and Con- vent of Westminster ; but, since the Reformation, in the Dean and Chapter, the civil part being by them committed to laymen. Of these the High Steward, who is generally a nobleman of rank, has an Under Steward, who ofliciates for him, and is commonly Chairman of the Quarter Sessions. Next to the High Steward is the High Bailitf, chosen also by the Dean and Chapter. His power resembles that of a Sheriff; for by him juries are sum- moned, and he makes the return at the election of Membei-s of Parliament. This part of the metropohs is usually denominated the Court-end of the town, for here are the residences of the principal nobility and gentry when they withdraw from tlie country in the winter season, either for the discharge of their duty in parliament, or for the purposes of variety and general amusement. The Suburbs are under the jurisdiction of the Magistrates of LONDON. S Middlesex, who, beside their County Hall on Clerkenwell Green, have an office in Bow-street, long distinguished for public spirit and activity. But as there were other Justices of the Peace, wlio degraded the dignity of Magistracy, by prostituting it to mercenary views, an act of Parliament was passed in 1 792, by whi'^h seven other public offices were establislied, beside that in Bow-sireet*. Three magistrates officiate at each of these : and, to deprive them of all temptation to corrupt practices, they are prohibited from taking any fees, in lieu of which they have each an annual salary, the chief, or resident magistrate at each office, having 1000/.; the others 500 Z. each. The fees of office, which are paid as n«;ual, are appropriated to defray the expenses of these new establishments. SouTiiWARK VV3S long independent of the city of London; but, in consequence of the inconveniences arising by the escape of njalefactors from the great capital into this place, Edward III. cranted it to the city, in consideration of the annual payment of 10/. It was then called the village of Southwark : it was after- wards named the Bailiwick, and the Corporation of London ap- pointed the Bailiff. In the reign of Edward VI. it was formed into a twenty sixth ward, by the name of Bridge Ward Without. On the death of the Alderman of this ward, he is succeeded by the next in seniority, to whicliever ward he may belong; this ward being considered as a sinecure, and, consequently, the most proper for" The Father of the City." The City has likewise a High Bailiff and Steward here, whose presence and activity are necessary on all public occasions, CHURCHES. To begin with the public buildings of the metropolis, the Cathedral of St. Paul, as the most conspicuous, claims our first attention. This noble fabric is 2292 feet in circumference, and 340 in height to the fop of the cross, being seen at the distance of many miles from almost every part of the adjacent coiuitry. In magnificence of exterior architecture it is inferior to none in Europe, except St. Peter's at Rome. The inside of this church will one day be distinguished for a grandeur unknown to our ancestors, and even to the present age: it is now destined by the Parliament to be the receptacle of the monuments of such illustrious men as have done honour to their coimtry by their talents and their virtues. Three statues aud six monu- * These offices are in Queen Square, AVestminster; Great Marl- borough Street, Oxford Road; Hatton Garden, Holborn ; Worship Street, Shoreditch; Lambeth Street, Whitechapel ; High Street, Shtidvvell ; aud Union Street, SoiUhwark. Besides these, an addi- tional office has been established at Wappiug New Stairs, for offences connected with the shipping and port of London, B 2 4 LONDON. ments have been erected : the former hi honour of the celebiated Dr. Samuel Johnson, the philanthropist Mr. Howard, and Sir William Jones, famed for his learning in the oriental languages ; and the latter in memory of Captains Burgess, Faulkner, AYest- cott, Riou and Moss, General Dundas, andGeneial Ahercrorabie, gallant officers, who have fallen in defence of their country ! But what will attract the curiosity of future visitors to St. PauVs, will be the spot exactly under the centre of the dome, where, on Thtrsday the 9th of January, 1806, were deposited the mutilated remains of the brave and illustrious Nelson, after a procession from the Admiralty, which was the most splendid that ever graced the annals of our country : and on the llth day of May, 1810, the same vault was opened to receive the body of his friend and coadjutor in t!ie memorable battle of Trafalgar, the gallant LordCoLLiNGWooD, who was also interred at the public expense, and has had a monument voted to his memory by Parliament. The flags taken at the battle of Trafalgar are hung round the dome, and remind the British spectator of the union of patriotism and piety ! The curiosities consist of the Library, Whispering Gallery, Model, Clockwork, Great Bell, and the Ball : the Mo- nument of General Abercrombie may also be considered as a curiosity ; for, as a sculptural production, it is inferior to few in the kingdom. AVestminster Abbey, the collegiate cliurch of St. Peter, is a noble specimen of Gothic architecture. It is said to have been founded by Sebert, King of the East Saxons, in the year 610. Having been destroyed by the Danes, it was rebuilt by Edward the Confessor, in 1066. " An abbey," says Mr. Pennant, *' is nothing without reUcs. Here were to be found the veil, and some of the milk of the Virgin, the bladebone of St. Benedict, the finger of St. Alphage, the head of St. Maxilla, and half tlie jawbone of St. Anastasia." Henry III. pulled down the Saxon pile, and began to build tlie present magnificent structure in 1245. The great work was carried on slowly by succeeding princes ; but it can hardly be said to have been finished before the time of Sir Christopher Wren, who built the two towers at the west end. This church is 360 feet in length witliin the walls, at the nave ft is TJ broad, and at the cross 195. An alarming fire broke out in July, 1803, through tlie carelessness of work- men, and considerable damage done. The ravages, however, are now repaired, the aisles railed in, and the whole of the church much improved. Tlie exterior of this cathedral has been also re- cently in part repaired, and will be entirely : the architecture, being that of the florid Gothic, which so peculiarly distinguished the fourteenth century. For several ages this fine fabric has been obscured by a group of old houses, which have been lately taken down, and an elegant oruamental opening effected, at once illustrative of the opulence of the nation, and the taste of its re- presentatives, under whose auspices both the repairs and im. LONDON. 5 provements have proceeded. Here most of our monarcbs have been crowned, and many of them interred — It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep ; There made ILke gods, like mortals there they sleep j Making the circle of their reign complete. These suns of empire, where they rise they set ! WALLER. Tills structure contains a great number of monuments of kings, statesmen, heroes, poets, and persons distinguished by genins, learning, and science. The chapel of Henry VH. adjoining, Leland calls " Tlie Wonder of the World." Nothing, indeed, can be more solemn tlian a solitary walk in this mansion of the iliustrioiis dead; nor can anything be more just and bcautifiil than Mr. Addison's reflections on this subject : " When I look upon the tombs of the great, every emotion of envy dies in me ; wiien I read the epitaphs of the beautiful, every inordinate de- sire goes out 5 when I meet with the grief of parents upon a tombstone, my heart melts with compassion ; when I consider t!ie tombs of the parents themselves, I consider the vanity of grieving for those whom we must quickly follow; when I see kings lying by those who deposed them; when I consider rival wits placed side by side, or the holy men that divided the world by their contests and disputes; I reflect with sorrow and as- tonishment on the little competitions, factions, and debates of mankind — when I read the several dates of the tombs, of some that died yesterday, and some six hundred years ago, I consider that great day when we shall ail of us be contemporaries,^ and make our appearance together!" King Henry the VHth's chapel, which has been gradually wasting to decay, is now under external repair, and, to the credit of the present Dean and Chapter, is to be restored to all its original pui ily and splendour. In contemplating the beauties of this sac red pile, the following thoughts occurred — How magnificent ! the architectural Boast of proud Collegiate Westminster, This Abbf-t rears, sublimely pinnacl'u. His massy towers ! his antique chapels, Time-struck and mouldering ! Cemeteries Of tlie royal, and of tlie heroic dead I His pointed arches ! his sliafted columns i Springing light, with many a branching groin. Into the " high-einbos«ed roof I" florid AVith Gothic ornaments ! The cluster'd rose ; Trefoil; quatrefoil; and barb 'd portcullis ! Tabernacles — o'ercanopy'd, and rich With high-wrought, gorgeous masonry ! The frette j The crou'ket j and the flow'ry fmial ; vaulted LONDON. AVith finelj'-cliissel'd tracery ! Thence— base And sacv\le^\oi\s fanatic hands have stol'n The sojfUed image! unaw'd by the solemn Splendour of the scene 1 such as might craven The murderer's hand, (Infrtrer-clnlch'd ! and such As now delays (rei)entant) the progress Of my deviating, desultory steps,' Bringing me back to days of calm devotion, Sooth M by the " pealing organ's" swelling note ! The seraphic, ** fuU-voic'd quire !" echoing Harmonious, hosannas loud I dissolving The rapt soul in melodious ecstasy ! Here reverent the pious suppliant Kneels ; and sees (awhile secluded from this Wicked world) as if with pure angelic Vision biess'd, " All heaven before his eyes I" Or, indulging earthly contemplation In chilling silence, seeks that sacred tomb. Where, with senatorial dignity And ease, the silent marble seems to speak In Chatham's manly, veneiable form ! Pointing at the /r«f /«;'(/ vault, late yawning To inhume the filial corse ! There coffin'd On paternal dust, may the cold relics Of each duteous son, coeval in the Grave — the " none-sparing" grave ! — find honourhl rest! And let no subject of this threateu'd isle, Still Heaven protected ! and mildly govern'd By that lov'd Monarch, whosejirm Minister - Pitt died, e'er pass this consecrated Pile Without the meed (remembering who sleeps here) Of sympathetic woe, for Britain's loss ! And " O MY COUNTRY !" — was the expiring Painful exclamation, that falter'd last On oiu' Patriot Siatesman's livid lips. A. The curiosities ctjnsLst often more Chapels besides the above ;. the chairs in which our sovereigns are crowned ; the wax-work ; and Uie beautiful view obtained by ascending its tower. St. Stephen Walbrook, near the Mansion House, is a small church of exquisite beauty, the masterpiece of Sir Christopher A\'ren. Perhaps Italy itself can produce no modern building that can vie witli this in elegance and proportion. There is not a beauty which the plan would admit of, that is not to be found here in the greatest perfection] and foreigners very justly qali our taste in question, for understanding the graces no better, and allowing it no higher degree of fame. Over the altar is a beau- tiful picture of the martyrdom of St. Stephen, by West. The LONDON. 7 character of tlie saint is fully expressed in liis angelic counte- nance, resigned to his fate, and full of the hope of immortality. Bow Church, in Cheapj>ide ; St. Bride's, in Fleet Street j St. Dunstan's in the East, near the Tower ; and St. Martin's in the Fields, are among the churches eminent for fine archi- tecture. Other clunches are distinguished for curious monu- ments ; as, St. Andrew Undershaft, Leadenhall Street, for that of Stow the historian; St. Helen, of Sir Thomas Gresham; St. Giles, Cripplegate, where Milton, Fox the roartyrologist, and Speed the historian, were buried. The parish churches, in what are called the bills of mortality, amount to 146 ; namely, 97 within the walls, 16 without the walls, 23 out parishes in Mid- dlesex and Surry, and 10 in the city and Uberties of Westmin- ster. Beside* these churches, that belonging to the Temple, one of our celebrated seats of law, merits attention. It was founded by the Knights Templars in the reign of Henry II. upon the model of that of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The reader will find a full description of this church, and its ancient monu- ments, in Mr. Pennant's account. Among the illustrious persons of later date, interred io this church, were the celebrated lawyer Plowden, Treasurer of the Temple in 1572, (of whom Camden says, that in integrity he was second to none of his profession) and Selden, the best skilled of any man in the Enghsh constitu- tion, and in the various branches of antiquity ; but who, toward the close of his life, was so convinced of the vanity of all human knowledge, as to say, that the llth, 12th, 13th, and 14th verses of the second chapter of the Epistle to Titus, aflforded him more consolation than all he had ever read. Amongst the more recent interments of eminent lawyers, may be enumerated that of Lord Chancellor Thurlow ; remarkable for the roughness of his beha- viour, his impartial administration of equity, and his unshaken fidehty to his sovereign. As an instance of the latter, we will only remind the reader of his memorable words, occasioned by his Majesty's unforhmate indisposition : "■ When I forget my sovereign may the Almighty forget me !" St, Catharine, by the Tower, is also well worth inspecting ; the choir is very curious. There are likewise a great number of chapels for the Established Church, Foreign Protestant churches, Roman Catholic chapels, Meetings for the Dissenters of all persuasions, and three Syna- gogues for the Jews. Indeed so very various and diversified are the places of worship in London, that a wag once remarked, that those who were very scrupulous as to their religion, might here suit themselyes to a shaving! PALACES AND PARKS. The magnificence of Royalty is not to be found in the palaces of the Metropolis. The palace of St. James was originally an a LONDON. hospital for leprous females, dedicated to that sahit. It was snr« reudered to Henry VIII., wlio erected on its scite the present palacHj of which it has been observed, that, notwithstanding its mean exterior appearance, it is the most commodious for tlie parade of royalty of any in Europe -i^. He likewi.se laid out a large piece of srouiul adjoining into a park, and formed a canal and walks, cailiiii; it, in conformity to the former name of the oontijrnons buildmjx, St. James's Park. Ciiarles II. enlarged and improved this spot, adorning it with plantations of trees; bat, a few years ago, it was rendered still more beatitiful by the genius and taste of Brown, the distinguished pupil of the illustrious Kent» wIjo, in the most happy manner, adopted and improved the principles of gardening laid down by his predecessor. The bea'ity of this park is heightened by beini? conti}j;uous to another of less extent, called " Tiie Green Park." Here too, on the most elevated part, is a fine piece of water, which is recruited every tide from the Thames, by the waterworks at Chelsea; and forms a reservoir for supplying the houses in the neighbouring pans. In this park the Deputy Ranger, Lord William Gordon, has a neat lodge, surrounded by a shrubbery, producing a pleas- ing rural effect, although so near t'le houses in Piccadilly. A tine ascent, called " Constitution Hili," from the salubrity of the ail-, leads to Hyde Paik, another royal dpiiiesne. This is adorned w ith a noble piece of water, called " The Serpentine River," and with diversified plantations of various kinds of trees, which, together with its elevated situation, commanding extensive views, render it a captivating scene. Hence it is the place of fashion- able morning resort (or the nobility and gentiy, both in carriages and on horseback, and incredible is the number of visitors on a Sunday in the summer season! Near the ejistern edge of this l>ark is a fine bason of water, supplied by the Chelsea water- works, from which the houses in Grosvenor Square, and its vicinity, are provided. The Ranger of St. James's and Hyde Park is Viscount Sidney. The Queen's Palace stands in the most favourable situation that St. Jauies's Park could fiunish. It was erected by John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, in 1703, and called Buckingham House, until it was purchased, in 1761, for the royal residence, when it acquired its present name. In 1775, Parliament settled this house upon the Queen, in case she should survive his Ma- jesty, in lieu of Somerset House. Here is a fine collection of priijis, and a great variety of pictures by the most eminent mas- ters ; also many curious Time Pieces, his Majesty being deemed very curious in such kinds of machinery. * A considerable part of this palace was lately destroyed by fire, which, in the prevailing opinion, will be rebuilt on the original plan. LONDON. 9 Carlton House, in Pall Mall, the residence of the Prince of Wales, the gardens extending to St. James's Park, is a stately building, on which vast sums have been expended. The furni- ture and interior decorations are very superb; and the armoury is amongst the greatest curiosities of this kingdom, as it contains the arms, accoutrements, and warlike implements of every age and country. Its front has a princely appeaiance, and the cen- tinels pacing to and fro add to ifs grandeor and dignity. The Banqueting House, at Whitehall, was begun in 1619, from a design by Inigo Jones *. It is only a small part of t\u^ vast plan of a palace, intended to be worthy of tlie residence of the British Monarchs ; but left incomplete, on account of the unhappy times that followed. The exterior appearance has lately been very much improved, by pulling down the gateway, and admitting a vit w of the Thames. The ceiling of this noble room v\ as painted by Rubens, who had 3000Z. for his work. The subject is the Apotheosis of James I. It forms nine compart- ments. One of the middle represents our pacific monarch on his earthly throne, turning with horror from Mars and other dis- cordant deities, and giving himself up, as it were, to the amiable goddess he had always adored, and to her attendants, Commerce and the Fine Arts. A few years ago, the ceiling underwent a repair by the masterly hand of Cipriani. Little did James think, that he was erecting a pile, from which his son was to step from the throne to the scaffold ! In front of Privy Gardens is a statue of James II. pointing to the spot where his father was beheaded, which is much admired for its expression of grief. The Banquet- ing House has been long converted into a chapel ; and George the First granted a salary of 30 Z. a year to twelve clergymen (six from Oxford and six from Cambridge) who officiate a month each. The interior has been fitted up for the reception of the guards ob duty, who are marched here for the performance of divine service. Besides the Royal Palaces, there are many fine houses of the Princes of the Blood, and of the Nobility and Gentry. Of these we shall only mention the most distinguished, namely, Aldborough House, Stratford Place ; Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, the Marquis of Wellesley's ; the Earl of Chesterfield's, South Audley Street j the late Duke of Cumberland's, Pall Mall, now used as the Ordnance Office ; the Duke of Devonsire's, and the Earl of Egremont's, and Albany House, now an hotel, Piccadilly ; the Bishop of Ely's, Dover Street; Foley House, near Portland Place ; Gloucester House, Upper Grosvenor Street, Earl Gros- venor's ; Earl Harcourt's, Cavendish Square ; the Marquis of liansdovvne's, Berkeley Square ; Manchester House, the Marquis of Hertford's, Manchester Square; the Duke of Marlborough's, * It is remarkable, that this great architect, who was surveyor of tlie works, had only Ss. 4f/. per diem, and 46/. per ann. for house- rent, a clerk, and incidental expenses. 10 LONDON. Pall Mall; Lord Melbourne's, Whiteliall; tlie Duke of Norfolk's, St, James's Square ; the Duke of Northiimherlaud's, in the Strand ; Burlington House, the late Duke of Portland's, Picca- dilly, which was said would be pulled down, and its site occupied by an elegant crescent ; since which it is reporud that Lord George Cavendish has p'ircliased it for his own residence; Earl Spencer's, St. James's Place; the Earl of Uxbridije's, Bur- lington Street ; Lady Charlotte Wynne's, St. James's Square; Lord Grenville's, in the Green Park, &c. COURTS OF JUSTICE. Westminster Hall, now the seat of Parliament, and of the Courts of Law, stands on tlie site of a royal palace built by Edward the Confessor. The stairs to it on the river still retain the name of Palace Stairs, and the two Palace Yards belonfred also to this extensive pile. Many parts of it exist to this day, appropriated to other uses. The exterior of this edifice was for many years defaced by the erection of coffee-houses, wjjich, Ijighly creditable to the national taste, have been pulit* 1 down, and the entrance restored to its pristine form: the avenues have been also very much improved, and it is reported that the whole will be laid open to Bridge Strcpt. The great hall was rebuilt in its present form by Richard II., who, in 1399, kept his Christmas in it, with his characteristic magnificence : the ntmiber of his guests, each day, being 10,000 ! This great H ill exceeds, in di- mension, any in Europe, which is not supported by pillars. Its length is 'J70feet; the breadth 74; and the height in proportion. Parliaments often sat in this hall : and, in 1397, when it was very ruinous, Richard II. built a temporary room for his Parlia- ment, formed with wood, and covered with tiles. It was open on all sides, that the constituents might see and hear every thing that passed : and, to secure freedom of debate, he surrounded the House by 4000 Cheshire archers, with bows bent, and arrows notched, ready to ^hoot. This fully answered the intent ; for every sacrifice was made to tiie royal pleasure. The Lords now meet in a room hung with tape-^try, which records our victory over the Spauish Armada ; and the Commons assemble in a place which was once a chapel, built by King Stephen ; and de- dicated to his namesake, the Protomartyr. Upon enlarging it fur the accommodation of the additional Members on account of llie union with Ireland, several curious antiquities were found. Courts of justice, even in early times, sat in this hall, where our sovereigns themselve« once commonly presided : for which reason it was ca!lf>d Curia Domini Reps, and one of the three courts now held hrre is called the Court of King's Bench ; th.e other three are those of the Common Pleas, Chancery, ajid Exchequer. In this hall was hf Id what was called " The High Const of Justice," for the trial of the imfortunate Charles I. Here also was cai'ricd on the impeachment against the arbitary minister, LONDON. 11 Strafford, who had been once the zealom patriot, Sir Tliomas Wentwortli. In mentioning this, Mr. Pennant relates an anec- dote, to show the simplicity of one part of the manners of the times. '' The Commons," says this entertaining writer, " who had an inclosed place for themselves, at a certain hour pulicd out of their pockets bread and cheese, and bottles of ale ; and, after they had eat and drank, turned their backs from the king, and made water, much to the annoyance of those who happened to be below*. His lordship was brought into the hall by eight o'clock in the morning." This hall has been made famous of late years by the long and tedious trial of Warren Hastings, Esq. late governor of Bengal ; and, more recently, by the trial of Lord Melville, which created a general interest tlnoughout the country. A new Guildhall, for the city of Westminster, is now erecting on the site of the former, which was built on the foundations of a nunnery. Every days experience teaches us to suspect the pu- nty of tliese mansions of piety ; for, on removing a part of the an- cient foundations, the workmen have discovered a small narrow arch, which seems to point towards the ancient monastery ; doubtless for the purpose of private confession! The Guildhall of the City, situated at the end of King Street, Cheapside, was built in the year 1431 1. Its great hall is 153 feet long, 60 broad, and 58 high ; in which are placed two tremendous wooden giants, the pictures of several of the kings and queens of England, with whole, lengths of their present majesties, by Ram- say, and the judges who distinguished themselves in determining the differences between landlords and tenants, oh rebuilding the city, after the fire. Here is likewise a fine picture of the late Lord Chief Justice Pratt, afterwards Earl Camden ; a marble whole length statue of Mr. Beckford, who was twice lord mayor ; and a magnificent cenotaph to the memory Of the Earl of Chat- ham, both executed by Bacon. A monument also for the son, the Right Hon. William Pitt, has been voted ; and in May, 1810, was laid the first stone of a monument to the memory of the la- mented Lord Nelson. Tiie front of this hall has been lately re- built by Mr. Dance. And from the motto of the city arms, which is inscribed upon it in large characters, a stranger might suppose that the good citizens were remarkable for their piety ! In this Guildhall the Courts of King's Bench and Common Pleas hold sittings at nisi prius ; the city elections are also held, and all the business of the corporation transa-^ted here. The Sessions House, in the Old Bailey, in wdiich the crimi- nals both of London and Middlesex are tried, is a large modern * Mr. Pennant quotes, as his authority, the letters of Provost Baillie, of Scotland, 1641. f Before the year 1711, the court-hall, or bury, as it was called, was held at Alderman's Bury, so denomioated from the meeting of the aldermen there. 12 LONDON. structure, separated from Newgate only by a small yard, where are kept the implements of pwnislmient, those painful, but ne- cessary £;uardian3 of society. Adjoining, a plain structure has been erected, on the ground formerly occupied by the Surgeons' Ilall, for the accommodation of the judges and officers of justice. The County Hall for INIiddlesex was built by Mr. Rogers, on Clerkeuwell Green, in 1781. The front toward the Green is composed of four columns, three quarters, of the Ionic order, and two pilasters, supported by a rusticated basement. The county arms are placed in the tympanum of the pediment. Un- der the entablature are t\AO medallions, representing Justice and Mercy. In the centre is a medallion of his majesty, decorated with festoons of laurel and oak leaves ; and, at the extremities, are medallions of Roman fasces and sword, tlie emblems of Authority and Punishment. The execution ot these designs was by the masterly hand of Nollekens. The building may be known at some distance by its elevated dome, whence issue down rays of light, by which the court ball is pleasantly and copiously il- luminated. Doctors' Commons, or the College of Civilians, is situated to the south of St. Paul's Cathedral. Here are held the Eccle- siastical Courts, and the Court of Admiralty ; but the trial of of- fences on the high seas, under the jurisdiction of the latter, is commonly transferred to the Old Bailey ; and in the neighbour- hood is the Herald's Office. MILITARY AND NAVAL OFFICES. The Tower, to the east of London Bridge, is surrounded by a wall and ditch, which inclose several streets, like a little town, beside the building properly called the Tower. Here are some artillery, a magazine of small arms for 60,000 men, ranged in beautiful order; a horse armoury, in which are seen figures of our kings on horseback ; and likewise the crown and other regalia, the Mint and the Menagerie. The circumference is about a mile. It contains one garrison church, and is under the command of a constable and lieutenant governor. The Tower was a palace du- ring 500 years ; but ceased to be so on the accession of Queen Ehzabeth. The most ancient part, called The White Tower, was founded by William the Conqueror, in 1078. It is vulgarly attributed to Julius Caesar; and to this the poet thus alludes: Ye tow'rs of Julius, London's lasting shame. With many a foul and midnight murder fed, * Revere his consort's faith f, his father's fame X* And spare the meek usurper's holy head§. gray. ^ Henry VI.; George Duke of Clarence: Edward V. his bro- ther, &c. t Margaret of Anjou, consort to Henry VI. t Henry V. § Henry VI. LONDON. 13 What are termed the Curiosities of the Tower, rank under the following articles ; viz. Wild Beasts — Spanish Armoury — Small Armomy — Royal Train of Artillery — Horse Armoury — Jewel Office — Mint and Chapel *. Of these the small armoury and horse arnwury make the greatest impression on the mind of the visitor. In the former are to be seen a stand of arms for no less than 60,000 men, disposed into a variety of figures, and arranged after a most elegant manner. In the latter are exhibited the kings of England on horseback, with a few ex- ceptions, from William the Conqueror down to George the Second, clothed in the armour of the times when they lived ; they appear in tremendous array, and, upon first sight, generate in the minds of the spectator rather an unpleasant impression. But they are entitled to a critical inspection, as they serve to il- lustrate and adorn the annals of our country. To young people they cannot fail of proving a source of improvement as well as amusement. The Horse Guards, a light and elegant structure, was re- built in 1754, at the expense of 30,000/. It stands opposite the Banqueting House, and contains apartments for the officers and privates of tlie life guards, a troop of which constantly do duty here. The War Office is in this place, and here courts martial for the army are occasionally held. The Ordnance Office, for the military department, was a handsome building in St. Margaret's Street, Westminster ; but is now pulled down, to give room for the improvements effecting in the neighbourhood, and is removed to the residence of the late Duke of Cumberland in Pall Mall. The Admiralty, rebuilt in the late reign, by Ripley, is a large structure, the clumsiness of which is veiled, in some de- gree, by a handsome screen, designed by Adam. Here the higher departments of the business of the navy are transacted, and the lords of the admiralty have houses. On the top of this building telegraphs are erected, for the speedy communication of intelligence between London, Dover, Portsmouth, &c. This public edifice is contemplated with peculiar interest, when we recollect the recent naval achievements of our country. The Trinity House, on Great Tower Hill, is an handsome building, and its interior is remarkably elegant; seated on rising ground, and having a fine area, called Trinity Square, in its front, inclosed within an iron pallisade, it enjoys the combined advantages of a good situation and a pure air. The corporation is destined to superintend the interests of the British shipping ; and they possess the power of examining masters of king's ships, of appointing pilots for the Thames, of erecting light-houses and sea-marks, and of granting licences to poor seamen, not free of the city, to ply on the Thames. * The Shell-work is removed to Exeter Change. c 14 LONDON. OFFICES COMMERCIAL AND FISCAL. The Royal Exchaxge, the resort of all the nations of the world, rises before us with the full majesty of commerce. Whe- ther we consider the grandeur of the edifice, or the vast con- cerns transacted within its walls, we are equally struck with its importance. The original structure was built in 1557, by Sir Thomas Gresham, one of the greatest merch?.nt5 in the world, after the model of that of Antwerp. In 1570, Queen Elizabeth went to the Bourse, as it was then called, visited every part, and then, by sound of trumpet, proclaimed it The Royal Exchange. Being destroyed by the great fire in 1666, it was rebuilt, in its present forni, for the city and the company of mercers, at the f'xpense of 80,000 Z. by Sir Christopher Wren, and was opened in 1669. In each of the principal fronts is a piazza, and in the centre an area. The height of the building is 56 feet, and from the centre of the south side rise a lantern and turret 178 feet high, on the top of which is a vane, in the form of a grasshopper, the crest of Sir Thomas Gresham. The inside of the' area, which is 14i feet long, and 117 broad, is surrounded by piazzas, forming walks, to shelter t!ie merchants in bad weatlier. Above the arches of these piazzas is an entablature extending round, and a com- pass pediment in the middle of each of the four sides. Under that on the north are the king's arms, on the south those of the city, on the east those of Sir Thomas Gresham, and on the west those of the mercer's company. In these intercolumniations are 24 niches, iiO of which are filled with the statues of the kings and queens of England. In the centre of the area is the statue of Charles II. in a Roman habit, encompassed with iron rails. This new statue, by Bacon, was placed here in 1792, in the room of another of that king. In this area the merchants meet every day. These merchants are disposed in separate classes, each of which have their particular station, called their walk. The Bank of England, a magnificent structure, is situated in Threadneedle Street. The centre, and the building behind, were erected in 17S3. Before that time, the business was car- ried on in Grocers' Rail. The front is a kind of vestibule; the base is rustic, and the ornamental columns above are Ionic. Within is a court loading to a second building, containing the hall, and other offices. Within a few years have been added two wings of uncommon elegance, designed by the late Sir Robert Taylor. In addition to Sir Robert's improvements, those by Mr. Soai>e, from the model of the Sybill's Temple at Tivoli, render the Bank respectable in its architecture, and commodious for bu- siness. Its new north front is entitled to particular attention. The New Mint is now erecting on Little Tower Hill, and, when complete, will be one of the most superb structures in the kingdom, and possess some of the finest mechanism in the world. Already steam engines of vast power have been constructed, and LONDON. i h tunnel formed for supplying them with water, which commn- njcates with the Tower Ditch. The steam engines and coininir apparatus were fdinished by Messrs. Bolton and Watt, and the machinery by Mr. Kennie. The Custom House, to the w^est of tlie Tower, is a lar^^e irre- gular structure of brick and stone, before which ships of SbO tons can lie, and discharge their cargoes. It was built in J 71 8, on the site of a former custom house, destioyed by fire. In Mr. Pennant's Account of London, are some curious particulars of the produce of the customs at ditfercnt times, from the year 1268 (when the half year's customs, for foreign merchandise in London, came only to 75 L 6s. 10^7.) to the quarter ending April 5, 1789, when the produce for the year amounted to 3,711,1^26 Z. The Excise Office, in Broad Street, is a building of magni- ficent simplicity, erected in 1768, on the site of Gresham Col- lege. It is a building of considerable extent, and is, no doubt, well adapted to answer the purposes to which it is appropriated. An elegant building is now erecting near Tower Dock, for transactuig that part of the business of tiie excise connected with the customs, and promises great accommodation to the port of London. The East India House, in Leadenliafll Street, was built in 1726. A handsome front has lately been constructed, 190 feet in length from east to west; the principal story is plain sunk rustic, with five circular windows in each wing ; the portico from a Grecian example: upon the centre of the pediment of the portico Is a figure of Britannia, shielded by his present ni;ijesty, George III. On either side are emblematical figures in relief, and the whole is covered with handsome baliustrades. The new building contains all the offices necessary for transacting the bu- siness of a commercial company. What would be the reflections of an old Roman, could he rijie from the slumber of ages, and re- visit this island, which his compatriots then considered as be- yond the boundaries of the world, and a voyage of difliculty and danger, should he behold this structure, and be informed that it was the capital, as it were, of a republic of commercial sove- reigns, who possessed extensive territories in distant regions of the globe, maintained vast armies, engaged in bloody and ex- pensive wars, and now created, now dethroned, and now re- stored the mighty chiefs of nations! — The fact would appear in- credible. Tiie South Sea House is a noble building, with two spacious rooms for transacting tl\e business of the South Sea annuities ; the upper room, more particularly, being a lofty, spacious, and particularly grand, although unadorned, piece of architecturt', surpassing any room of the kind in tlie Bank of England. The General Post Office is situated in Lombard Street. C 2 16 LONDON. As a building it merits no distinction ; but the late arrangement of tlie offices makes it very convenient. So.viEKSET Place, a stnp-ndous and magnificent structure, on tiie site of one of the most beautiful remains of the architecture of the sixteentli century, was beiiun to be built, according to the plan of Sir William Chambers, when the nation was engaged in a war with America, France, and Spain. The design, in erecting this fabric, was to bring together the most considerable public otficcs. Accordingly, here are now the following offices : the Auditors of Imprests, Clerk of the Estreats, Duchy Courts of Lancaster and Cornwall, Hackney Coach, Hawkers and Pedlars, Horse Duty, Lord Treasurer's, Remembrancer's, Lottery, Navy, Navy Pay, Pipe and Comptroller of the Pipe, Salt, Sick and Hurt, Signet, Stage Coach Duty, Stamps, Surveyor of Crown Lands, Tax, Victualling, and Wine Licence Offices. The king's barge houses are Ukewise comprehended in the plan, with a dwelling for the barge-master ; beside houses for the treasurer, the paymaster, and six commissioners of the navy; for three commissioners of the victualling and their secretaiy ; for one commissioner of the stamps, and one of the sick and hurt ; with commodious apartments in every office for a secre- tary, or some other acting officer, for a porter, and their femihes. The front of this structure, toward the Strand, consists of a rich and ornamented basement, supporting an excellent example of the Corinthian order, containing a principal and attic stor)-. In this front are apartments for the Royal Academy, and for the Royal and Antiquarian Societies. Here, for several years past, have been the Exhibitions of paintings belonging to the Royal Academy, which prove a rich annual repast to the pubUc, and very considerable benefits result from them. The grand entrance, by three lofty arches, leads into a spaci- ous quadrangle, on each side of which, to the east and west, a street is to be formed, beyond which the wings are to be car* ried. The front to the Thames is erected on a noble terrace, 53 feet wide; and the building, when finished, will extend about 1100 feet. This terrace, which is unparalleled for grandeur and beauty of view, is supported on a rough rustic basement, adorned with a lofty arcade of 32 arches, each 1 2 feet wide, and 24 high. The grand semicircular arch in the middle of the basement is that in- tended for the reception of the king's barges. Tlie length of the arcade is happily relieved by projections, distinguished by rusticated columns of the Ionic order. The south or principal front, erected on this terrace, con- sists of a rustic basement, over which the Corinthian order pre- vails. The Treasury, which has a noble elevated front, is situated near the Parade in St. James's Park. Gloomy and massy pas- Bages lead through into Downing Street and Whitehall. What LONDON. 17 is called " The Cockpit/' forms a part of this building, and is now the council chamber for the cabinet ministers. THE MANSION HOUSE. Of this huge ponderous residence of the lord mayors of tho city, Mr. Pennant is content to observe, in the words of Pope's character of Cromwell, that it is "damned to everlasting fame.'" It is built of Portland stone, and has a portico of six lofty Huted columns of the Corinthian order in the front ; the same order being continued in pilasters, both under the pediment and on each side. The basement story is very massy, and built in 2 usiic ; and on each side rises a flight of steps of considerable height leading up to the portico, in the middle of which is the door to the apartments and offices. The columns support a large angu- lar pediment, adorned with a noble piece in basso relievo, re- presenting the dignity and opulence of the city of London, ex- ecuted by Sir Robert Taylor. Beneath this portico are two se- ries of windows extending along the whole front; and above this is an attic storj', with square windows, crowned by a balustrade. The building has an area in the middle, and the apartments are extremely noble, particularly " The Egyptian Hall." — Tlie first stone was laid in 1739 ; the expense of building it was 42,638 /. and the sum voted for furnishing it, in 1752, was 4000/. T!it room in the front on the right-hand is ihe office for public bu- siness, and the room opposite is for the dispatch of private busi- ness. The building is in a very centrical situation. The Auction Mart is an elegant building, erected in Bar- tholomew Lane, opposite the Bank ; and intended for the sale of estates and goods of all descriptions ; its interior arrangement is most commodiously disposed, and a register is kept, upon an admirable plan, of every species of property bought or sold. THE MONUMENT. This noble column was erected in commemoration of the great fire in 1666, when the damage occasioned by the devouring ele- ment was estimated at 10,716,000/. It was begun in 1671, and finished in 1677, by Sir Christopher Wren. It is a fluted Doric column, 202 feet high. On the west side of the pedestal is a bass relief, by Cibber. It is an emblematical representation of this sad catastrophe • and King Charles is seen surrounded by Li- berty, Genius, and Science, giving directions for the restoring ol the city. The inscription, imputing the calamity to the Papists, is now universally considered as unjust : a circumstance to whicb Pope not improperly alludes : Where London's column pointing at the skies. Like a tall bully lifts his head and hes I c3 18 LONDON. It was thought, some time ago, rather unsafe, but having under- gone some repairs, it is now deemed a column of considerable strength and stability. BRIDGES. London Bridge, to the west of the Tower, was first built of wood, about tlie beginning of the 11th century. The present stone bridge was beemi in 1176, and finished in 1209. The length of it is 915 feel, the exact breadth of the river in this part. The number of arches was 19, of unequal dimensions, and deformed by the enormous sterlings, and by houses on each side, which overhung in a terrible manner. These were removed ia 1756, when the upper part of the bridge assumed a modern and noble appearance. But the sterlings were suffered to remain, although they contract the space between the piers so greatly, as to occasion, at the ebb of every tide, a fall of five feet, or a number of temporary cataracts, which, since the foundation of the bridge, have caused the loss of innumerable lives. It is in contemplation to erect a new- one, and various liave been the plans exhibited of it. Westminster Bridge, universally allowed to be the finest in the world, was built by Mr. Labelye, a native of Switzerland. The first stone was laid in 1739 ; the last in 1747 ; but on ac- count of the sinking of one of the piers, the opening of the bridge was retarded till 1750. The whole of the superstructure is of Portland stone, except the spandrels of the arches, which are built of Purbeck. It is 1223 feet in length j and has 13 large and two small semicircular arches : the centre arch is 76 feet wide ; the other arches, on each side, decreasing in width four feet. The architect as.-erted, that the quantity of stone used in this bridge was nearly double to what was employed in St. Paul's cathedral, and the whole expense did not exceed 218,800/. The utility of such a bridge must have been unquestionable, at the time when the design of erecting it was formed ; yet such was the contracted policy which then actuated the city of Lon- don, that they presented a petition to parhament against this noble undertaking. Great opposition too was made to the build- ing of a stone bridge. The plan and estimate of one composed of wood was laid before the commissioners, and favourably re- ceived ; but, on urging the architect to fix a sum for keeping it in repair, for a certain number of years, he declined making any proposals ; notwithstanding which, the wooden project had many friends, and it was only by a small majority in the House of Lords tliat the plan for a stone bridge was carried. The minority, on this occasion, obtained the appellation of " Wooden Peers." A proper satire upon them for their excessive timidity. Blackfriars Bridge, that elegant addition to the magnifi> cence of the metropolis, was built by Mr. Mylne. The first LONDON. 19 stone was laid in 1760, and the whole was completed in 1768, at the expense of 152,840/. 3s. 10 d. The length of this brid