I ^l^ZA.^^"^'^^-^ ^ y ^ y /^ I , ^^ ,. ROCKY MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES, BRISTLING WITH ANIMATED DETAILS OP FEARFUL FIGHTS OF AMERICAN HUNTERS WITH SAVAGE INDIANS, MEXICAN RANCHEROS, AND BEASTS OF PREY. GIVIN© TKUTHFUL ACCOUNTS OP THE AWFUL FATE OF HUNDREDS OF OVERLAND EMI- GRANTS AMID THE SNOW-DRIFTS OF THE TRUCKEE PEAKS, FKOM WHENCE HALF-FEOZEX MEN, WOMEX AND CHILDREN WEEE CAURIED OVER SLIPPERY CLIFFS, LASHED TO THE BACKS OF THEIR GAL- LANT RESCUERS. By Edwin Bryant. TO WHICH IS ADDED A PULL ACCOUN.T OP THE BEAR CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA. BV A HANDFUL OF AMERICAN ADVENTURERS, WHO LEVELLED THE WAY FOR THE TRIUMPHS OF STOCKMON AND FREMONT, AND THE GLORIOUS AND GLITTERING DAYS OF '48 AND '49, NEW YORK HURST & CO., PUBLISHERS. LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNK SANTA BARBARA CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Leave Louisville — Independence, Mo. — New-Mexicai. teamsters — Outfit- ting — Masonic celebration — Improbable rumors — Mormons — Indiana — Marvellous stories, P^go 13 CHAPTER II. Aj>^o k — Horse-trading — Furious storm — Scott's Bluff — First view of Ro^k"- Mountains — Horse Creek — Fort Bernard — Fort Laramie — Siorx fn- dians — Beauty of the Sioux women — Sioux Lodges, ?9 CHAPTER VIII. Procession of the Sioux — Purchase of mules — Extreme high prices for cof- fee, sugar, tobacco, flour, etc. — Shooting-match with the Sioux Indians — A return party from California — Denunciaiion of the country by them — Resume the journey on pack-mules — Vexations of mule-packing — Caiion of the Platte — First appearance of wild sage— View of the Rocky Mountains — Another Oregon return party — Swarms of crickets — An ex- tinct volcano — Green peas — A good supper — Frost in the mountains — Effects of earthquakes — Hunters and trappers: their numbers, habits, etc. — Celebration of the 4th of July — Gnats and mosquitoes — Joined by Mr. Buchanan — Alkaline lakes — Impure water, its effects — Sweet-water Mountains, HI CHAPTER IX. Independence Rock — Sweetwater River — Devil's Gate — A solitary traveller — Distant view of Wind River Mountains — Chalky Lakes — Deleterioi;8 effects of milk — Sickness in emigratinsr parties — Another return party from California — Buffalo-chase — Mortality among the oxen of the emigrants — Wolves in chase of diseased oxen — South Pass of the Rocky Mountains — Pacific Springs — Last view of the Atlantic slope — Jacob's Tower — Little Sandy River — Troublesome visiters — The Mirage — Big Sandy River — Greenwood's Cutofl^— Curious incident — Snake Indian hunting-party, 125 CHAPTER X. Sreen River — Terrific storm — Desolate scenery — Black's Fork — Rainbow bluffs — lif-marhahle butte — Arrival at Fort Bridgor — Messrs. Hastings and Hnd.spetli — 'I'raders and lrap|)orB from Taos — Capt. Walker — Culifor- uian liorsiH — Snow showMrs «ii llie mountains — Resume our march by the new route via the (Vreat Salt Lake — Cold weather — Ice in July — Bear Btrer — Ditlicult puBuage Uirougb tiie muuntaius — Elephant statue, 138 eoKTMwn 7 CHAPTER XI. More extreme cold weather — Ogden's Hole — Utah Indiane — Weber Rivet —Canons— Indian visiters — Disgusting practice — Great fires in the moun- tains — First view of the great Salt Lake — Salmon-trout — Great Salt Lake— A sunset on the lake — Broke my thermometer — Indian chase — Warm sulphur springs — More Indian visiters — Indian fruit-cake — Grass- hopper jam — Mode of taking grasshoppers by the Indians, .. 150 CHAPTER XIl. Utah Outlet and Lake — Enter the desert — Utah language — CoL Russell's niue-ehooter — Digger Indians — Utter sterility, 163 CHAPTER Xin. Mt.rcii -vej the g.eal Salt Desert — Preparations — Singular illusion — Volcanic debTS — Distant view of the great Salt Plain — Utter desolation — The mi- rage — Gigantic phantoms — Fata Morgana — Spectral army — Tempest on the Salt Plain — Clouds of salt — Instinct of mules — Mule-race — Excessive thirst — Arrival at oasi 10 CONTENTS. — Capt Fremont occupies San Juan — Castro retreats to the South — Los Angeles captured by Com. Stockton — Com. Stockton's proclamation, 333 CHAPTER XXVIII. Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia — An appeal to the alcalde — Kanackas — Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro — Straits of Carquinez — Town of Francisca — Feather-beds furnished by nature — Mouth of the Sacramento — Islands — Delaware Tom — A man who has forgotten his mother tongue — Salmon of the Sacramento — Indian fisher- men — Arrive at New Helvetia, 340 CHAPTER XXIX. Disastrous news from the south — Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey — Call for volunteers — Volunteer our services — Leave New Helvetia — Swinmiing the Sacramento — First fall of rain — Beautiful and romantic valley — Precipitous mountains — Deserted house — Arable land of Cali- fornia — Fattening qualities of the acorn — Lost in the Coast Mountains — Strange Indians — Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread — Indian guide — Laguna — Rough dialogue — Hunters' camp — " Old Greenwood" — Grisly bear meat — Greenwood's account of himself — His opinion of the Indians and Spaniards — Retrace our steps — Severe storm — Nappa valley — Arrive at Sonoma — More rain — Arrive at San Francisco — Return to New Helvetia, 346 CHAPTER XXX. Leave New Helvetia — Pleasant weather — Meet Indian volunteers — Tule- boats — Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians — Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Fo.ster — Capture of Thomas O. Lar- kin — Reconnaissance — San Juan Bautista — Neglect of the dead — Large herds of cattle — Join Col. Fremont, 358 CHAPTER XXXI. California battalion — Their appearance, and costume — List of the ofiicers — Commence our march to Los Angeles — Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan — Slaughter of beeves — Astonishing consumption of beef by the men — Beautiful morning — Ice — Salinas river and ''alley ' — Califoruian prisoners — Horses giving out from fatigue — Mission < ■" San Miguel — Sheep — Mutton — March on foot — More prisoners taken — Death of Mr. Stanley — An execution — Dark night — Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo — Orderly conduct and good deportment of the Califor- nia battalion, 365 CHAPTER XXXII. Tremendous rain — Mission of San Luis Obispo — Gardens — Various fruits — Farm — Cactus Tuna — Calinche — Pumpkins — Trial of Tortoria Pico^ Procession of women — Pico's |)ardon — Leave San Luis — Surf of the Pa- cific — Captain Dana — Tem|)csluous night — Mission of St. Yues — EfTecta of drought — Morses cxhau.slcd — St. Yncs mountain — View of the plain of Uouta Barbara and the Pacific — A wretched Christmas-day — DeacoB' CONTENTS. 11 of St. Ynes mountain — Terrible storm — Fightful destruction of horses — Dark niglit — What we are fighting for — Airive at Santa Barbara — Town detserted, 375 CHAPTER XXXIII. Santa Barbara — Picturesque situation — Fertility of the country — Climate— Population — Society — Leave Santa Barbara — Rincon — Grampus — Mis- sion of St. Buenaventura — Fine gardens — Meet a party of mounted Cali- fornians — They retreat before us — Abundance of maize — Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton — EtFects of war upon the country — More of the enemy in sigiit — News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearnj' and Com. Stockton — Mission of San Fernando — The Maguey- Capitulation of the Californians — Arrive at Los Angeles — General re- flections upon the march — Meet with old acquaintances, 3B4 CHAPTER XXXIV. S^llitarf operatJc.ns of General Kearny and Commodore Stockton — Their TAOonc to :he S'scretaries of War and Navy — Battles of San Pasqual and San uabriel, 394 CHAPTER XXXV. City of Angels — Gardens- Vineyards — Produce of the vine in California — General products of the country — Reputed personal charms of the fe- males of Los Angeles — San Diego — Gold and quicksilver mines — Lower California — Bituminous springs — Wines — A Kentuckian among the an- gels — Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey — Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego — Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton — Com. Shubrick's general order — lusur- rection in the northern part of California suppressed — Arrival of Col. Cook at San D'ego, 405 CHAPTER XXXVI. L6<»ve L'x, Angeles for San Francisco — Don Andres Pico — A Californian reium'.ng from the wars — Domestic life at a rancho — Women in favor of peace — Hospitable treatment — Fandango — Singular custom — Arrive at oantt. Barbara — Lost in a fog — Valley of the Salinas — Californians want- iaor YirJte'* wives — High waters — Arrive at San Francisco, 417 CHAPTER XXXVII. Progress of the town of San Francisco — Capt. Dupont — Gen. Kearny — The presidio — Appointed Alcalde — Gen. Kearny's proclamation — Arri- val of Col. Stevenson's regiment — Horse-thief Indians — Administration of justice in Crvlifomia — Sale of lots in San Francisco, 427 CHAPTER XXXVIII. First settlement of the missionar es — Population — Characteristics of white population — Employments — Pleasures and amusements — Position of wo- men — Soil- Grasses — Vegetable productions — Agriculture— Fruits — Cat- l»— Horses — Wild animals — Minerals — Ciunat» — Flora «4] ROCKY MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. Leave Louisville — Independence, Mo. — New-Mexican teamsters — Outhi ting — Masonic celebration — Improbable rumors — Mormons- —ludiaiie^ Marvellous stories. With my travelling companions for a journey over the Rockj Mountains to California, (Mr. R. T. Jacob and Mr. R. Ewing,) I left Louisville, Ky., on the 18th of April, 1846 ; and arrived at Independence, Mo., the starting-point, on the 1st of May. The town of Independence is situated about six miles from the Missouri river, on the southern, or left-hand side as you ascend it. The surrounding country is undulating,* picturesque, and highly fertile. Tlie growth of timber is various, and all indicative of a fat and exuberantly productive soil. Its popu- lation is about one thousand ; and, at this season, cv-;n man seems to be actively and profitably employed. It hac been for some years the principal outfitting point for the Saat.& Fe traders, and will probably so continue. Many of the houses around the public square are constructed of brick, but the majority of the buildings are frames. I noticed, among the busy multitude moving to and fro through the streets, a large number of New- Mexicans, and half-breed Indians, with theii dusky complexions and ragged and dirty costumes. They were genf rally mounted on miserably poor mules or horses, and presented a most shabby appearance. Long trains of oxen, 2 14 IKTRODUCTIOH. sometimes as many as ten or fifteen yokes, strung together and pulling huge tented-wagons, designed for some Santa Fe trading expedition, were moving about the streets, under the direction of numerous drivers, cracking their whips and making a great noise. Ox-teams seem to be esteemed as preferable, in these journeys, to either mules or horses. Following the example of others more sxperienced in these matters than ourselves, we determined vo procure oxen, instead of mules, for our wagon, as originally we had intended. Accordingly I purchased three yokes of oxen, which it was believed would be a team sufficiently powerful for the trans- portation of our baggage and provisions. The average piice paid per yoke was $21.67, which was considered very cheap. Ths streets were nlled with oxen oflfered for sale by the neigh- boring farmers- but few of them were in good condition or well trained. This was the case in regard to those we purchased ; but they were all young cattle, and improvable. Young and medium-sized cattle should be selected for a journey over the plains and mountains, in preference to the heavy-bodied and old ; the latter almost invariably become foot-sore, and give out after travelling a few hundred miles. We engaged a man, who had spent some time in the Rocky Mountains as a servant of the trading and trapping companies, for our driver and cook, and the cattle were placed under his charge to be educated. Al- though we had made many purchases in St. Louis, we found upon consultation after our arrival here, that there was a long list of small articles necessary for the journey yet to be pro- cured. These I obtained at reasonable rates, of Messrs. Wilson iSi Clarke, who keep a general furnishing store for these expe- ditions. Other mercantile houses in the place were also well supplied, and sold their wares at fair prices. The masonic lodges of Independence commemorated the departure of tlieir brother masons, connected with the Santa ¥6. a.nd emigrating parties, by a public procession and an ad- dress, with othei" religious exercises. The lady-masons, tliat !£, llie wives of tlie members of the fraternity, walked '• the procession to and from the church. A huge audience was INTRODUCTION. 15 collected to hear the address, and participate in the exercises The address was delivered by Mr, Reese, the grand-master, or principal masonic officer in the place. It was appropriate to the occasion, except, as I thought, that it was rather over- strained in pathos. The orator, at the close of his discourse, consigned us all to the grave, or to perpetual exile. He was responded to in suitable and eloquent terms, on behalf of the Santa Fe traders and the emigrants to Oregon and Cahfornia, by Col. Waul and Col. Russell. After the addresses, an original hymn, written for the occasion, as I understood, was sung with much feeling by the whole audience, to the tune of " Old Rosin the Bow." These farewell ceremonies were con- cluded by an affecting prayer and benediction. The ladies of the auditory, I thought, were the most interested in and excited by these proceedings. Some of thee wept, and man- ifested strong emotions. It rained heavily and incessantly the whole day on the 3d, and the unpaved streets of the town were so muddy and so much inundated with water, that walking about was quite out of the question. We therefore confined ourselves to our room in the hotel, where we had scores of visiters ; who, finding it impossible to do any thing else, lounged and talked over the various rumors connected with the several expeditions. One of these rumors was, that five thousand Moimons were crossing, or had crossed, the Kansas river ; that they marched with ten brass fieldpieces, and that every man of the party was armed with a rifle, a bowie-knife, and a brace of large revolving pistols. It was declared that they were inveterate!}' hostile to the emigrant parties ; and when the latter came up to the Moimons, they intended to attack and murder them, and appropriate to themselves their property. Another rumor was, that the Kansas Indians had collected in large numbers on the trail, for the purpose of robbery and murder. A third was, that a party of five Englishmen, supposed to be emis- saries of their government, had started in advance of us, bour.d for Oregon ; and that their object was to stir up the Indian tribes along the route, and incite them to deeds of hostility 16 INTRODUCTION. towards the emigrants ; to attack their trains, rob, murderj and annihilate them. All these reports were sufficiently ap- palling to deter prudent men from incurring the dangers which they suggested, had there been any foundation for them to rest upon. Similar rumors will probably be current every year, about the time that emigrants are organizing their companies to start west. ^ Among the gentlemen who honored us with their company during the day, were — Mr. Webb, editor of the " Independence Expositor," to whom I was indebted for several acts of kind- ness ; Mr. LiPPiNCOTT, a gentleman from New York, visiting California for commercial purposes ; and Mr. Curry, late one of the editors of the "St. Louis Reveille," yrho wUl be our fellow- traveller over the plains and mountains. Many tales of Rocky Mountain adventure, some of which were sufficiently dismal and tragical for the most horror-tinctured taste, others con- trasting as widely therefrom as possible, were related. The merits of the couniries bordering the Pacific were discussed : by some they were denounced as abodes suitable only fof the condemned ind aoandoned of God and man ; by others they w^re extolled, as beiijg scarcely inferior in their attractions to tne Eden described in the history of the creation, and present- in.'^ such fascinations as almost to call the angels and saints from their bi'sstul gardens and diamond temples in the heavens. Such are the r ntipodes of opinion among those who I'ely upon second-hand testimony for their information, or are governed by their prejudices, in reference to this subject. A story was told in regard to the climate of California, which, because it serves to illustrate the extravagances above referred to, I will endeavor to recite. It was of a man who had lived in California, until he had reached the advanced age of two hun- dred and fifty years! Although that number of years had passed over hira, such were the life-giving and youth-preserving qualities of the climate, that he was in the perfect enjoyment of his health, and every faculty of mind and hod}' which he had ever possessed. But he was lired of life. Having lived so long in a turbident and unquiet world, he anxiously desired som*" INTRODUCTION. 17 new state of existence, unincumbered with its cares, and imruf- fled by its passions and its strifes. But notwithstanding all his efforts to produce a result which he so much wished, and for which he daily and hourly prayed to his Maker, health, and vigor, and life still clung to him — he could not shake them off. He sometimes contemplated suicide ; but the holy padres, to whom be confessed his thoughts, admonished him that that was damnation : he was a devout Christian, and would not disobey their injunctions. A lay friend, however, (his heir, probably,) with whom he daily consulted on this subject, at last advised him to a course which, he thought, would produce the desired result. It was to make his will, and other arrange- ments, and then travel into a foreign country. This suggestion was pleasing to our venerable Californian patriarch in search of death, and he immediately adopted it. He visited an adjoining country ; and very soon, in accordance with his pian and his wishes, he took sick and died. In his will, however, he required his heir and executor, upon pain of disinheritance, to transport his remains to his own country and there entomb them. This requisition was faithfully complied with. His body was interred with great pomp and ceremony in his own cemetery, and prayers were rehearsed in all the churches for the rest of his soul. He was happy, it was supposed, in heaven, where, for a long series of years, he had prayed to be ; and his heir was happy that he was there. But what a disappointment ! Being brought back and interred in Californian soil, with the health- breathing Cal- ifornian zephyrs rustling over his grave, the energies of lift were immediately restored to his inanimate corpse ! Herculean strength was imparted to his frame, and bursting tb»= prison- walls of death, he appeared before his chapfallen hei*- reinvested with all the vigor and beauty of early ifianhood ! He submitted to his fate, and determined to live his appointed time. Stori'^? similar to the foregoing, although absurd, and so intended to be, no doubt leave their impressions upon the minds of many, predisposed to rove in search of adventures and Eldorados. A party of gentlemen from Baltimore, bound for Santa Fe on a pleasure excursion, among whom were Messrs. HoflbiaDf 2* 18 INTRODUCTION Morris, and Meredith, arrived. The small town seemed to Iw literally overflowing with strangers of every grade of character and condition of life, collected from all parts of the continents of America and Europe, civilized and uncivilized. On the 4th our additional purchases were made and other arrangements completed, with the exception of some fixtures to our wagon, with duplicate axletrees, ox-bows, &c. (fee, which were prom- ised to be in readiness the next morning. From the 5th, there- fore, I shall date the commencement of our journey, describing as minutely as will be interesting or useful the events and ob servations of each day consecutively, from notes taken at the close of our several diurnal marches. I bespeak the patience of the reader whenever these pag ^s shall appear to him monotonous, as they doubtless frequently will. My design is to give a truthful and not an exaggerated and fanciful account of the occurrences of the journey, and of the scenery, capabilities, and general features of the countries through which we shall pass, with incidental sketches of the leading characteristics of their populations. The journey across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, is one of protracted dura- tion, owing to the necessarily slow progress of those who un- dertake it, arising from the numerous difficulties and obstructions they must encounter. The scenery is neither so diversified, nor are the incident and adventure so dramatic and striking as most ••eaders may suppose, from having perused the msmy unauthen- cicated histories, fabulous and imaginary, with which the press has of lute teemed, professing to be descriptive of mountain and prairie life. The vast interior of North America, with the re- puted Eldorado on the shore of the Pacific, furnishes, however, much that is worthy of the inquiry, examination, and admiration of the naturalist, and much that is calculated to awaken and please the desultory curiosity of the niass. Wbatever I saw and noted at the time, with the impressions n«»*le upon my mind, will be faithfully and truthfully :ecorded APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTST 19 CHAPTER II. A.ppea;auce of the country — ^Vexatious difficultiea of starting — First camp — Violent thunder-storm — Four-footed tragedian — First view of the prai- ries — Soil — Flowers — Emigrant camp — Frontier family — Thunder-storm on ttie prairie — Lodgings on the frontier — More of the Mormons — Rain- bow on the prairies — Indian Creek — Place of organization — Straying of cattle and horses — Election on the prairies — Shawnee Indians. May 5. — The beauties and glories of spring are now unfold- ing themselves, and earth and skv seem to vie with each other in presenting the most pleasing inflviences to the eye and upon the sensibilities. Vegetable nature in this region has arrayed herself in a gorgeous garniture, and every object that raises it- self above the surface of the ground, is so adorned wdth verdure and all the variegated and sparkling array of floral coloring, as to challenge the admiration of the most unobservant eye. Our wagon, which has been in the hands of the smith several days for the purpose of adapting it in all respects to our jour- ney, we expected would be ready early this morning; but when I went to the shop to ascertain if the alterations and fix- tures were completed, I found but little done. The smith made his excuses as usual in such cases, but promised to go about the work and finish it immediately. I had learned how to value his promises, and determined not to leave the spot until I saw the work finished. This was done about three o'clock, p. M. Our ox-team, which had been kept in readiness for sev- eral hours, was immediately attached to the wagon, and ou** luggage placed in it with all dispatch, and at four o'clock the wagon and team, under the guidance of Brownell the driver, left the town. Business detaining me a short time, I did POt overtake the wagon, until it had " rolled," as the teamster's ex- pression is, about a mile ircia. its starting-point, where I found 20 FIRST CAMP. it firmly and immoveably stalled in the mud, so far as the power of our team could be considered an agent for its extrica- tion. The oxen being untutored and unmanageable, coidd not be prevailed upon to unite their strength. I dismounted from my horse, and with the aid of Curry, McKinstry, and Nuttall, endeavored to raise the wheels and thus assist the oxen in their efforts. But all our exertions were vain. Fortunately a negro man with a well-trained yoke of oxen came down the road, while we were thus engaged, and hitching his team to ours the wagon was immediately drawn out of the mud, and, to use a nautical expression, we were " set afloat" again. Proceeding a mile farther, I determined to encamp for the night, it being nearly simset, on a small stream which crossed the road. Having selected the site of our camp in a grove near a log-house, the wagon, driven by Brownell, soon camo up, but in attempting to cross a causeway thrown over the stream, the wheels ran off on one side, and we were stalled a second time. We were relieved finally from this difficulty by a Santa Fe teamster and his oxen, who came down the road during our labors to extricate the wagon. A Mr. Ross, of In- dependence, passing at the time, acted as master-teamster on the occasion, and performed his duty to admu-ation. The oxen seemed willing to obey him, when they would not heed the commands of others. We ascended a small elevation and en- camped for the night. Our provisions and cooking utensils, in the haste of de- parture, had been packed in the wagon- without much regard to convenience, in case we should be obliged to make use of them ; and we were consequently compelled to remove many heavy boxes and trunks before arriving at our meal, flour, and bacon, and the pans and dishes of our kitchen and table. Upon a careful inspection, we moreover found that sundry pots, skil- lets, and frying-pans, whicli we had specially ordered and paid for, were wanting. During tlie process of cooking supper, it commenced raining and blowing with great violence. Our fire was nearly extin- jfuiahed by the deluge of water from Ihe clouds, and our dough THUNDER-STORM. 21 was almost turned to hatter. Curry, after most persevering and praiseworthy eflforts, succeeded in browning the coflfee, but Jacob, when he set about grinding it, could not make the coflfee-mill perform its appropriate duty, and it was voted a cheat. The rain came down so copiously at last, that our fire was entirely extinguished, and our cuhnary operations were suspended until nearly 10 o'clock. The violence of the storm abated at that hour. Brownell soon after succeeded in placing before us a supper of half-baked corn-bread, fried bacon, and coffee. We ate standing, with the rain falling, and our clothing completely saturated with water. Our oxen become entangled in the ropes by which we had secured them from straying during the night, and it was not without much labor and difficulty that they were released. Jacob and myself made our bed, or rather took sheltpr from the storm, among the boxes in our wagon ; McKinsiry and Brownell bivouacked under the wagon, and Curry and Nuttall under a large tree. The suspension of the fury of the storm lasted until about 2 o'clock in the morning, when the rain re- commenced falling in torrents, accompanied by peals of crash- ing thunder and flashes of ligiitning so brilliant, as to illumi- nate the whole vault of the heavens. Notwithstanding all these inconveniences, we rested pretty well. Distance two miles. May 6. — The atmosphere was clear and calm, cicd thousands of birds were chanting their matin hymn, rendering the grove musical with their melodies. Three Santa Fe wagons which passed our camp last night during the storm, were stalled in the road just beyond us. We purchased some corn for our oxen at the log-dwelling near by, which they devoured with a good appetite, having eaten noth- ing for about eighteen hours. Our breakfast, which consisted of uadly-baked corn-bread, bacon, and coffee, being over, we readjusted the baggage and resumed our journey. Just as we were starting, one of our best oxen having become entangled in the rope by which he was tied, was thrown to the ground with great force, and after struggling some time he rolled up his eyes, which became iixed, and be manifested all the symptoms of 22 THE BLUE PRAIRIE. death by a broten neck, or some other fatal mjury. The rope was cut, but he waa motionless and apparently breathless. Here, as we supposed, was a disaster, stopping further progress until we could supply the place of the dead ox. I was about starting back to town to purchase another animal, when he very calmly and deliberately rose upon his legs, and began to feed upon the corn as composedly as if nothing had occuned. He evidently, after struggling with the rope a long time, thought himself dying, and made signs accordingly. As we approached what is called the Blue Prairie, the road became much drier and less difficult. The vast prairie itself soon opened before us in all its grandeur and beauty. I had never before beheld extensive scenery of this kind. The many desciiptions of the prairies of the west had forestalled in some measure the first impressions produced by the magnificent land- scape that lay spread out before me as far as the eye could reach, bounded alone by the blue wall of the sky. No de- scription, however, Avhich I have read of these scenes, or which can be written, can convey more than a faint impression to the imagination of their effects upon the eye. The view of the illimitable succession of green undulations and flowery slopes, of every gentle and graceful configuration, stretching away and away, until they fade fi-om the sight in the dim distance, cre- ates a wild and scarcely contiollable ecstasy of admiration. I felt, I doubt not, some of the emotions natural to the abo- riginal inhabitants of these boundless and picturesque plains, when roving with unrestrained freedom over them ; and care- less alike of the past and the futuie, luxuriating in the bloom- ing wilderness of sweets which the Great Spirit had created for tl)eir enjoyment, and placed at their disposal. The soil of these prairies is of the most inexhaustibly fertile composition, being a black loam, usually several feet in depth. Among the flowers which spangle the waves of this ocean of luxuriant vegetation, were the wild pink-veibena, and the wild indigo, witli a blue bean-like blossom. The larkspur, and myr- iads of smaller flowers, ornament, the velvety carpet of grass. Having alighted from my horse to gather some fine specimena INTERESTING EMIGRANTS. 2? oi these flowers, when I was careiessiy remounting, encuniijered with my gun and several other articles, the saddle turned, and my horse becoming restive or alarmed, threw me with great violence to the ground. My wrist and both shoulders were much injured, and my right side was severely bruised. At two o'clock we reached an encampment, composed of the wagons of Colonel Russell and the family of Mr. West, of Cal- loway county. Mo., and some others. Tliey were emigrating to California. The wagons numbered in all about fifteen. When our wagon arrived it was drawn up alongside the others, and our oxen released to feed upon the grass of the prairie. I visited the tents of our fellow-travellers, and found the ladies busily employed, as if sitting by the fireside which they had recently left for a long and toilsome, if not a dangerous journey, and a country of which they knew but little. Mrs. West, a lady of seventy, and her daughter, Mrs. Campbell, were knitting. Mr. West, the head of his family, was originally from Virginia, and was, he told me, seventy-five years of age. His four sons and son-in-law. Major Campbell, having determined to emigrate to California, he and his wife had resolved to accompany them. Mr. and Mrs. W., although so mucli advanced in life, appeared to be as resolute as the youngest of their family, and to count with certainty upon seeing the Eldorado of the Pacific. The former realized this expectation, the latter did not. A log-house, the residence of a Mr. Milliron, an emigrant to this country from Virginia, was situated about half a mile from our encampment. We visited this house soon after Ave en- camped. The family, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. M. and several sons and daughters, have resided here, on the outskirts of civil- ization, four years. They have annually been afflicted with the prevailing sickness of the country, (the fever and ague,) except their eldest daughter, a very fair-skinned, handsomely-featured and graceful young woman. In a field not far from the house, one of the sons of Mr. M., with a horse-team, was plowing up the ground. I followed the plow several times backwards and forwards, and I never saAv a soil indicative of a higher degree of fatness, or more productive qualities. £4 A THUNDER-STORM. About five o'clock, p. m., a very black and threatening cloud, which had been gathering for some hours in the west, rose ovei us, and discharged rain with the copiousness of a water-spout, accompanied with brilhant and incessant flashes of Hghtning, and crashing peals of thunder. The scene, during the violenc<^ of the storm, was inexpressibly grand. I had never previous!)' witnessed any meteoric displays comparable with it. The storm continuing after dark, we determined to shelter ourselves in thr- house for the night. A good supper of fried bacon, eggs, fresh butter, and hot corn-bread and biscuit, with a cup of coffee, was prepared for us, to the merits of which we did ample justice. I met at the supper-table a traveller named O'Bryant. He was a young man, and last from Santa Fe, bound for Independence, He had been absent from the United States six years, during which time, impelled by the spirit of adventure and the temptations of gain, he had visited Santa Fe, Chihuahua, Mexico, the mines of Sonora, and the country of Lower California. He could, how- ever, give us no information respecting the route we were about to travel. The capacity of the log-house in which we had taken lodg- ings for the night, was confined to two small rooms ; and of men, women, and children, all counted, there were some fifteen persons to be accommodated. But this, singular as it may seem to the uninitiated in frontier life, Tas done to the perfect satisfaction and comfort of all concerned. Such are the inven- tions of necessity, and so soon do our real wants and comforts overshadow and annihilate the artificial desires and luxuries of civilization to which we have been accustomed. I letircd early, but the feverish and painful sensations produced by the injuiies of tlie morning, tog(;tlier with the exciting impressions upon my imagination made by the remarkable aspect of the country through which we had travelled, prevented sleep. We were now on the line which divides savage life and civilization. A few miles further, and we shall pass beyond the incorporated territories of the United States into the countries inhabited by the untutored tribes of the wilderness. But notwithstanding PICTURESQUE LANDSCAPE. 25 such is our position, the scenery arouDil us presents greater pastoral charms than I have witnessed in the oldtst and most densely populated districts of the United States; houses alone are wanting to render the landscape perfect. It would seem as if in mockery of the puny eli'orts and circumscribed results of the labors of man to ornament the landscape by art and cultivation, the power and taste of Omnipotence had here been manifested, preparing for his children a garden as illimitable in extent as it is perfect, grand, and picturesque in appearance. Distance 10 miles. May 7. — A rainbow formed a perfect and brilliant arch in the west, as the sun rose above the eastern horizon. A black cur- tain of clouds shaded the entire heavens, with the exception of a narrow fringe of yellow light above the far-off green undula- tions to the east. The impending masses of watery vapor soon, however, shut down, and closing this, the whole heavens were shrouded in deep gloom. The rain fell almost imsessantly during the night, accom- panied by loud and continual peals of thunder, and flashes of lightning so vivid as to illuminate the apartment in which we slept, through the unchinked crevices between the logs. During these fierce bursts of the storm, I could not but sympa- thize with my fellow-travelers without, with no shelter but the thin covering of their tent-cloths, and no floor to rest upon but the wet, cold ground. Such are the exposures of the western emigrants. We resumed our march in the rain, at 9 o'clock, accompanied by Colonel Russell and his wagon, leaving the other wagons encamped where we found them. We traveled about four miles to a small creek which is called " Blue Creek," and find- ing the waters so much swollen by the late heavy rains, that it was not fordable, we encamped in a narrow, timbered bottom, a hundred yards from the stream. About twelve o'clock the dark masses of clouds which had obscured the heavens, and poured out upon the earth sucli floods of water, cleared away, and tlie sun shone out warm and bright. We took advantage of this interregnum in the water dynasty to dry our drenched 86 EMIGRATING MORMONS. clothing. Large fires were made of the dead and fallen timbei in the bottom, and an excellent dinner of fried bacon and corn- bread was prepared by our cook. The severe bruises which I had received from the accident of yesterday, aggravated by the inclemency of the weather, were excessively painful, and ren- dered me quite unfit for travelling. Ewing, who had been dispatched yesterday to Fort Leaven- worth to ascertain the truth of the various rumors respecting the numbers of the Mormons bound west, their disposition, etc. etc., came into camp whooping, about 2 o'clock, p. m., with a man (McClary) riding behind him on his horse. He brought a letter from Colonel Kearny, commandant of the fort, the purport of which was, that a thousand Mormons had crossed the Missouri river about four weeks since, and that a number about equal to the foregoing were now crossing at St. Joseph's. Others, it was reported, were soon to follow, but with proper circumspection on our part, no diflBculties with them need be apprehended. The emigrants with whom I have met, express generally much apprehension in regard to the designs of the Mormons. Many predict collisions with them and fatal results; and it is probable that some who have started will turn back in conse- quence of these apprehensions. We sounded the creek this evening, but found the depth of water too great for fording. We consequently resolved to en- camp for the night, and pitched our tent for the fiist time. Just before sunset another storm of lightning, thunder, and rain rose in the west, and passing over us to the east, the most per- fect and brilliant rainbow I ever beheld was defined . upon the face of the dark masses of clouds, displaying by a most brilliant presentation all the colois of the prism. Distance, four miles. May 6. — The creek had fallen several feet during the night, and, much to our gratification, was now fordable. But our oxen had strayed away, and it was not until after a long search through the brushy and limbered bottom of the creek, that they were found. These diflicuUics in respect to cattle are a ways experienced at the outset of a journey over the prairies. At n MAGNIFICENT PRAIRIE 27 o'clock we resumed our march. Fording the creek, and cross ing the timbered bottom of the stream over a very deep and muddy road, we entered another magnificent prairie beyond the Missouri hne and within the Indian territory. It is impossible for me to convey to the reader the impressions made upon my mind by a survey of these measureless undulating plains, with their ground of the freshest verdure, and their garniture of flame-like flowers, decorating every slope and hill-top. It would seem as if here the Almighty had erected a finished abode for his rational creatures, and ornamented it with beau- ties of landscape and exuberance and variety of production far above our feeble conceptions or eSbrts at imitation. Our cow, which we found it impossible to drive before us, we secured by a rope attached to her head, and tied to the rear of the wagon. In the course of the day she became entirely exhausted by her own intractability, and fell down in the road. We were compelled to leave her, and forego the luxury of milk on our journey. Some distance to the right of our trail, about two o'clock, p. M., we saw an encampment of several emigrant wagons. Colonel Russell and myself proceeded to them. Composing a portion of this party, were Mi-, and Mrs. Newton, recently from Virginia, and bound for California. Mrs. N. is a lady of good appearance and manners, and of cultivated taste. We dined with Mr. and Mrs. N. ; and although our dinner was not set out in *the style of the St. Charles, the Gait House, or the Astor House, nor the viands so various, I certainly enjoyed it more than I ever did a repast at either of those celebrated places of luxury and resort. Pursuing our journey, after dinner, we overtook ten emigrant wasfons, with a numerous drove of cows and other stock. Most of these wagons are the property of Mr. Gordon, of Missouri, who, with his entire family, consisting of several sons and daughters, is removing to California. After some conversation we passed them, and overtook our own wagons just as they were driving up to the encampment on Indian Creek, where the organization for our journey is to take place. The position of this encampment is highly picturesque. The margin of th« 28 FLOWERS AND PLANTS. small stream is fringed with a grove of timber, and from tte. gentle slope, where our wagons are drawn up, the verdant prairie, brilliant with flowers of every dye, stretches far away on all sides, diversified in its surface by every conceivable va- riety of undulation. We found two wagons encamped here, one of which belonged to Mr. Grayson, of St. Louis. Mrs. G., an intelligent and culti- vated lady, with a small child, accompanies her husband to the shores of the Pacific. A party from Michigan, imder ,the direction of Mr. Harlan, we learned, was encamped in a grove of timber about a mile beyond us. They left Michigan in Octo- ber last, and wintered near Lexington, Mo. From thence, this spring, by land, they had proceeded thus far on their journey to the Pacific. I visited them in the afternoon ; and, as usual among the emigrants, found them cordial and friendly in their salutations. They had been in their present encampment more than a month, but appeared to be contented and happy, and, with the numerous women and children, who greatly outnum- ber the men, to possess a persevering energy and confidence in the future, that would sustain them in a journey round the globe, whatever might be its difficulties. Returning to our camp, and accompanied by Curry and Nut- tall, I walked some distance down the creek to try my luck at angling. The aggregate result of two hours' patient toil, was about fifteen small fish, with which we returned to camp. They were cooked in the pan, and our appetites were such that we enjoved them with a relish unknown to the epicure of the " settlements." Among the flowers and plants which I have noticed to-day, are tlie verbena and the indigo-plant, in larger quantities and a Jiighcr degree of perfection. Also a species of wild geranium, atid the losin-weed, the stalk of the last of which, on being rjroken, exudes a gum of the consistence and odor of turpentine. Tlie lupin (not in bloom) in many places seems to dispute the occupancy of the soil with the grass. I observed, also, a plant producing a fruit of the size of the walnut, called tlie prairie- pea. The fruit has an agreeable taste, resembhng thai of thf« ELECTIONEERING. 29 green pea of our gardens. In a raw state, it is eaten by travel- lers on the plains to quench thirst. It makes a most excellent pickle, as we afterwards discovered, scarcely inferior to the olive. I killed a moccasin-snake this afternoon, when returning from our angling excursion down the creek. I had nearly stepped upon him before he was discovered, and from his attitude, he was evidently prepared to strike at me. He was about three feet in length. The sky, since twelve o'clock, m., has been perfectly clear, and the atmosphere calm. At eight o'clock, p. m., the moon and stars are shining in all their splendor, presenting to the eye a scene of imposing sublimity, and of the most profound solitude. Distance, 16 miles. May 9. — Immediately after breakfast I commenced the ar- rangement of our baggage and provisions, so as to render them convenient of access in our wagon. A party which went out in the morning to angle, brought in an abundant supply of small fish about 12 o'clock. Several emigrant wagons have arrived during the day and encamped alongside of us. The wagons at our camp this evening numbered thirty-four. We were visited by Mr. Harlan and a number of his party. It was proposed to-day, and there was a general concurrence to the proposition, that the party for California should be or- ganized and officerv.d by the free choice of those concerned, on Monday next. Singular as it may appear, there is as much electioneering here for the captaincy of this expedition, as there would be for the generalship of an army, or for the presidency of the United States. The many interests of the ambitious as- pirants to office, and the vehemence with which their claims are urged by their respective friends, augur unfavorably to har- mony on the journey. Our camp this evening presents a most cheerful appearance. The prairie, miles around us, is enlivened with groups of cattle, numbering six or seven hundred, feeding upon the fresh green grass. The numerous white tents and wagon-covers before which the camp-fires are blazing brightly, represent a rustic village ; and men, women, and children are talking, playing, and 3* 30 RELIGIOUS EXERCISES. singing around them with all the glee of light and careleM hearts. While I am writing, a party at the lower end of the camp is engaged in singing hymns and sacred songs. The dew is very heavy, the grass being as wet as if a hard shower had fallen during the night. This diurnal condensation of dampness, and the great difference between the temperature of the day and the night, are doubtless strong agents in pro- ducing the prevailing diseases of this country, — the ague and bilious fevers. Several of the oxen and horses belonging to ourselves and others of the party encamped, strayed away and could not be found this morning. A general hunt to recover this valuable property became necessary, and it proved successful. Emi- grants cannot be too watchful of their cattle and horses when first starting upon this journey. They are all more or less disposed to stray and return to the settlements, and frequently they range to such a distance, that they cannot be recovered. Numerous parties of ladies and gentlemen from the neighbor- bg villages visited our camp in the course of the day, and at- tended divine service, the exercises of which were performed by the Rev. Mr. Dunleavy of the Methodist Episcopal church, one of the emigrants to California. Six additional wagons came into our camp in the course of the afternoon, one of which, drawn by mules, belonged to Mr. Lip- pincott of New York, whom I have already mentioned. The sun, until late in the afternoon, shone with scorching intensity. Just before sunset I took a stroll over the verdant plain to gather flowers for preservation. I strayed to a stone monument erected by an emigrating company, commemorative of their departure for Oregon, on a commanding position : f the prairie. Ex-irovernor Boir(rs, of Missouri, who, with his family, de- signs to emigrate to California, came to our camp this evening, and soon after left, returning to Independence, liis residence. He stated that it was impossible for his wagons to come up with us until Thursday. May 11. — Tills day had been appointed for the organization of the emigrant company bound for California, the choice of ELECTION OF COMMANDER. 31 officers, &c. Mr. Harlan and his party came over, and at nine o'clock, a. m., all the men were assembled in the grove tc proceed to business. Edwin Bryant was chosen chairman, and Mr, Curry ap- pointed secretary of the meeting. Mr. Harlan, after the or- ganization of the meeting, moved a postponement of the election of officers, until the emigrants had passed the Kanzas river. This motion was rejected. Mr. H. then requested leave tc withdraw from the meeting, and by a vote his request was granted. He then withdrew, stating, however, before he left, his belief that companies of moderate size would travel with much more convenience and celerity than large companies, and that his party added to those on the ground, he believed, would render the train too unwieldy for convenience and progress. This view was afterwards found to be entirely correct. Colonel W. H. Russell was then chosen captain of the party encamped around us. A committee was appointed, of which Governor Boggs was chairman, to draft rules or laws for the government of the party during their journey. They reported in the afternoon, and it was further resolved that we should recommence our journey in the morning. A guard was set over our cattle to-night, for the first time, to prevent them from straying. A male and female of the Shawnee Indian tribe came into our camp this afternoon. Their age apparently was about fifty. They were mounted on ponies, and the female rode sidewise on the saddle. They were dressed in the costume of the whites oi the frontier. They were very taciturn, and soon left us. Si "C4TCHING UP,* CHAPTER III. Le&Te Indian Creek — " Catching up" — A corral — Droves of mules from New Mexico — Santa Fe traders returning — Dismal accounts of the jour- ney — Leave the Santa Fe trail — Wild onions — Difficult crossings — I'ot- awattomie Indian — Ex-governor Boggs and other emigrants come up — • Reasons assigned for emigration — Solitude of the prairies — IVIore Indians — First news of war with Mexico — Signs of dissolution of the party — An adventure almost — Extreme heat — Sufferings of cattle — Division — Kan- sas River — A luxury in the wilderness — New-comers — Rumors of war confirmed. Mat 12. — All the wagons and teams were this morning in- spected by a committee appointed for that purpose. It ap- peared from their report that the number of wagons belonging to the company was 63 ; of men 119 ; of women 59 ; of chil- dren, male and female, 110; pounds of breadstuflfs 58,484; of bacon 38,080 ; of powder 1,065 ; of lead 2,55*7 ; number of guns, mostly rifles, 144 ; pistols 94. The number of cattle was not reported, but I estimate it at 700, including the loose stock, and 150 horses. The scene of " catching up," as the yoking and attaching of the oxen to the wagons is called in emigrant phraseology, is one of great bustle and confusion. The crack of the ox-goad, the " whoa-haws" in a loud voice, the leaping and ruimmg about of the oxen to avoid the yoke, and the bellowing of the loose stock, altogotlier create a most Babel-like and ex<:iting confusion. The wagons commenced moving at nine o'clock, and at ten the camp was entu-ely deserted. In consequence of there being no order of march to-day, the train of wagons was strung out two or three niiU;s in length. The views of tliis long procession, occasionally sinking into the depiessions of the prai- rie, and then riBing therefrom and winding along the curves of A CORRAL. 33 the ridges to avoid the wet and soft groimd, were highly pictu- resque. Our journey has been over a prairie entirely destitute of timber, or shrubbery of any kmd. The soil is generally com- posed of a black argillaceous loam, several feet in depth. The summits of the highest elevations exhibit a more sandy compo- sition of soil, with a debris of flint and porous sandstone. The grouse, or prairie-hens, have been frequently flushed during our maich. Smaller birds are not very numerous. The heat of the sun has been extremely oppressive. A.t one o'clock, v. m., we reached a small grove, composed of a few oaks, cotton-wood, maple, and hickory trees, on the banks of a small branch, (head of Blue Creek,) where we encamped for the day. The wagons, in forming the encampment, were what is called corraled, an anglicised Spanish word, the signifi- cance of which, in our use of the term, is, that they vv ere formed in a circle ; constituting a wall of defence in the event of an attack from the Indians, and a pound for the confinement of the cattle and horses, whenever necessary or desirable. A Spanish corral is a common cattle or horse pound. The area of this circle is sufficiently large to graze, during the night, such horses and cattle as are most likely to stray, if not thus confined. On the outside of the corral the tents are pitched, with their doors outwaids ; and in front of these the camp-fires are lighted, and the culinary operations for the several families, or messes, per- formed. This afternoon the company was divided into four sections, and a leader for each was appointed, to superintend their order of march. Several subordinate or stafi" officers were appointed, as assistants to the captain, etc., etc. Regular guard-duty was established, and our organization, theoretically, appeared to be very perfect, and entirely sufficient for all the purposes requhed of it. Distance, six miles. May 13. — Brownell, our driver, having left camp last night, to ride a distance of ten or twelve miles on some business, did not return until after we had commenced our march. It was not without great trouble that we collected our oxen, and sue- 34 SANTA FE TRADERS. • ceeded in attaching them to the wagons. Nuttall volunteeied to act as driver pro tern, for the day, or until Brownell returned. Our march was along the Santa Fe trail, through an undu- lating prairie-country, occasionally dotted with a few trees and clumps of small hazel-bushes. But generally there was no object for the eye to rest upon but the green and flowery slopes and gentle and ever-varying irregularities in the surface of the prairie. About one o'clock we passed what is called the " Lone Elm," a solitary tree, standing near a pool of water. I met, this afternoon, three retmniing Santa Fe trading-com- jjanies ; two of them with three or foui- wagons, and the other with twelve wagons, all drawn by mules. They were driving before them several large herds of mules, in the aggregate about one thousand. The mules were so lean that the ribs of most of them were defined with precision, and the bones of some of them appeai'ed to have worn through the flesh. I never saw a more ghostlj^ collection of animals. The operative men com- posing these companies were principally New-Mexicans ; the chiefs of the parties, however, were Americans. They all pre- sented a most fagged and worn appearance. I stopped and convei'sed some time with one of the leading men of these companies. He was intelligent, notwithstanding his soiled and ragged costume, and appeared to be very candid in all his statements. He said that the principal part of the mules had been driven from Chihuahua, and cost there twenty dollars per head ; that they were taken in exchange for such commodities as had been carried out with them, and he ex- pected to dispose of them at a profit on his arrival in the settlements of Missouri. He said that the journey to Santa Fe and Chihuahua was one of great fatigue and hardsliip, as he knew, but that tlie journey to California was infinitely more so ; that our lives would be shortened ten years by the trip, and before we returned, if we experienced such good fortune, our heads would be white, not with the frosts of age, but from the effects of exposure and exLieme hardships. This was not very cheering informaticn, and bidding him a polite good-day, we left him. WILD ONIONS. 8* About 4 o'clock, p. M., I reached the point where I supposed i/he Oregon trail diverged from the Santa Fe road. It was raining copiously. At some distance in the prairie, I saw a man mounted on a horse, with a loose mule feeding near him. Supposing him to be a member of some of the front emigrating parties, I rode up to him and inquired the probable distance to the next camping-ground. He was a man of that non-com- mittal order sometimes met with, from whom no satisfactory or explanatory information can be drawn by any inquiry, however pointed. He appeared to be afraid of exposing his own igno- rance by committing himself in any direct reply ; and in a vain effort to seem eminently wise and discreet, his affii-mative re- sponses were rebutted by such a volume of negative qualifica- tions and reservations, that he was entirely incomprehensible. The rain had abated before this unsatisfactory colloquy was ended, and a bright rainbow was formed in the east, the arch of which was not raised more than one degree above the hori- zon. Our train of wagons coming up, we continued on the Santa Fe trail four miles farther, when we left it on the right hand, and soon afterwards crossing a small creek with high and steep banks, we encamped on the western side of it, in a small grove which fringes the margin of the stream. Large quanti- ties of wild onions were gathered by many of our party to-day, and being cooked with their bacon, composed the vegetable portion of their evening meal. Their odor is rank, and any thing but agreeable. The rain recommenced falling before we could pitch our tent, heavily and steadily, with every prospect of a stormy night. Distance 16 miles. May 14. — The rain of yesterday and last night has again so much saturated and softened the ground, as to render travelhng with wheels very difficult. The first mile and a half of our route was through the tim- bered bottom of the branch on which we had encamped. Our progress through this was very greatly obstructed by the un- evenness of the ground and its soft and miry condition. We were frequently obliged to fell trees and to cut down large quantities of small binish and throw them into the muddy ra- 36 DIFFICULT CROSSINGS. vines, in order to enable our animals and wagons to pass over them. These difficulties operate as serious discouragements upon the energies of mai /, but I look for a better road before we advance a great distance. Throughout the day the tra^^;l- ling has been very fatiguing to our oxen, the wagons frequently stalling in the mud-holes and the crossings of the small branches. Three or four hours were occupied in fording a diminutive tribu- tary of the Wakarusa creek. Tlie banks on the eastern side are so steep, that the wagons were let down Avith ropes, and the teams were doubled, sometimes quadrupled, in order to draw them up on the other side. The largest portion of our train reached the banks of the Wakarusa about 5 o'clock, and encamped on a sloping lawn in a curve of the stream, carpeted with verdant and luxmiant grass. A grove of small trees (oak, hickory, dogwood, and willows) nearly surrounds our camp. Their foliage is of the deepest green, and flowers of all the brilliant, and the softer and more modest hues, enliven the landscape around us. The face of the country over which we have travelled to-day, has been more broken and picturesque than yesterday. We passed during our march an elevated conical swell of the plain, which I as- cended ; and the view from it was one of commanding extent and great richness and beauty. The configuration of the vast diameter of the plain which can be observed from this, presents all the graceful and gentle curves, and the delicate shading and coloring that would charm the enthusiastic landscape artist in his dreaming sketches. A number of wagons being behind at dark, a party was formed and returned on the trail to their assistance. We found two or three of the wagons stalled in the deep mud, and the tongue of one of them, belonging to some highly worthy young men from Lexington, Ky., named Putnam, was broken. After groat exertions they were all drawn out and up to the camp, but it was near midnight before this was accomplished. Dis- tance 15 miles. May 15. — A Polawattomie Indian, accompanied by a hall- breed who r.poke English correctly, came to our camp early MORE INDIANS. 87 this morcLig. The Potawattomie was a tall, athletic young man of a syraraetrlcal figure, and rode a fat and handsome In- dian pony, which several of our party made overtures to pur- chccse, but they were not successful. He was dressed in a calico shirt, with buckskin pantaloons, gaiters, and moccasins. He brought with him several pairs of moccasins, some of them second-hand, which he wished to trade for meat. He soon sold Dut his small stock of wares and left us. The morning was spent in cleaning our rifles and pistols, which had become rusty and foul from the frequent rains. In the afternoon we were joined by Ex-governor Boggs, of Missouri, and Colonel Thornton and another gentleman from Illinois. The general reason assigned for emigration to the Pacific, by those from the frontier settlements of IlUnois and Missouri, is the extreme unhealthiness of those districts. They state that during the summer and autumnal months they are afiiicted with the ague and fever ; and of late years, in the win- ter season, the congestive fever prevails, and sometimes it is so fatal in its ravages as nearly to depopulate whole neighbor- hoods. They emigrate to the Pacific in search of health, and if they can find this with a reasonable fertility of soil on their irrival, they will not only be satisfied but feel thankful to Prov- idence for providing them such a retreat from the miseries they have endured. In the afternoon we crosodd the Wakarusa creek, and en- camped on the opposite bank in a grove of large timber. Sev- eral Shawnee Indians came to our camp in the evening ; one of whom, calUng himself John Wolf, spoke English. They begged for whiskey. Distance 1 mile. May 16. — Several Potawattomie Indians, male and female, visited our camp this morning. None of them spoke Enghsh. They could, however, pronounce the word " whiskey," and ut- tering this and at the same time exhibiting small pieces of silver, was the common salutation of these miserably-clad, half-starved creatures. They excited mingled emotions of loathing and commi»3ration. John Wolf, the Shawnee, whose acquaintance I made yesterday, apphed to me to indite for him a letter, and 38 SOLITUDE OF THE PRAIRIE. to cany it westward to some gi jat Indian captain of his tiibe. The letter, written from his d otation, was only four lines in 'ength. It informed his friend that two Shawnee chiefs, named Henry Clay and Ben Kiasas, and a sister of the Indian addressed, named Black Poddee, were dead. I folded, sealed, and super- scribed the letter, but I could never hear of the friend of John Wolf, and consequently the brief epistle was never dehvered. The grove in which we were encamped presented, this morn- ing, a most noisy and animated scene. The oxen belonging to our teams, and in daily use, now number about seven hundred ; and the mules, horses, and other loose animals, amount to three hundred, numbering, in the aggregate, one thousand head of cattle and horses. " Gee-up !" " gee-haw !" and " whoa- haw !" with incessant cracks of the whip, resounded on all sides, as soon as the word to " catch up" was given. As usual, a portion of the cattle could not be found when wanted, not- withstanding a guard had been placed over them during the night ; and it was ten o'clock, a. m., before the rear division of the train left the encampment. Our route, with the exception of the low rich bottom of the Wakarusa, has been over the high rolling prairie. In the far distance we could see the narrow dark lines of timber, indicating the channels of the small water-courses, stretching far away, until lost in the haze, or concealed from our \new by the inter- position of the horizon. Some of the slopes of the plain, in the perspective, were beautifully ornamented with clumps and rows of trees, representing the parks, avenues, and pleasure-grounds of some princely mansion, which the imagination was continually conjecturing might be hidden behind tlieir dense fohage. Not" a hving or moving object of any kind appears upon the face of the vast expanse. The while-topped wagons, and the men and animals belonging to them, winding slowly over the hill-tops and through the hollows, are the only rehef to the motionless torpor and tomblike stillness of the landscape. A lovcUer scene was never gjized uj)on, nor one of more profound solitude. A short time before we encamped, this afternoon, a small party of Indiana were seen in a hollow about a mile to our right NBWS OP WAR WITH MEXICO. 39 We n)de to them, and ascertained them to be Kachinga, a chief of the Kansas tribe, two warriors, and two squaws, with their famihes of children. They were here encamped, their tents being smoke- colored skins sewn together, and raised on small sticks, about two feet from the ground. Kachinga carried a rifle, which appeared to be new. He did not seem to under- stand veiy well the use of it. He was rouged with vermilion paint, and his hair was shorn to the skin, except a small tuft on the crown of his head, and under his chin. He wore, suspended by a buckskin string from his neck, two medals, one represent- ing, in alto relievo, the hkeness of Thomas Jefferson, President of the United States. The other medal, the device on which I do not recollect, purported, from the inscription, to have been presented to him by a citizen of Hartford, Ct., — evidently a " Yankee notion." Kachinga appeared to be a man of about sixty, and the expression of his countenance and his general appearance were prepossessing. The two squaws were miserable-looking objects in their features, figures, and cloth- ing. The Indians broke up their encampment when we left them, and soon overtaking our train, travelled along with us. The two squaws had each a pony, heavily laden with baggage. The children were in a state of nudity* and the infants were carried by their mothers, being fastened to their backs by closely-drawn blankets. They came around us while eating supper, and begged something to eat, which we gave them. Their appearance was extremely wretched. We were overtaken to-day, during our march, by a man belonging to one of the forward trains, but who left the settle- ments since we did. He brought with him a late number of the " St. Louis Republican," from the columns of which we derived intelligence of the first overt acts of hostility between Mexico and the United States. The paper contained an account of the defeat and capture of a company of dragoons on the Rio Grande, under the command of Captain Thornton, by the Mexicans, and also of the supposed critical situation of the United States troops composing the command of General Z. Taylor. Not- withstanding this war ike demonstration, none of the enugrantr 40 DIFFICULTIES IN CAMP. to California, so far as I could learn, manifested a disposition tc turn back in consequence of it. That discordance, arising from many trifling circumstances and unavoidable inconveniences, which I had heard mentioned as inevitable concomitants of this journey, was displayed in several instances to-day. Many of the men manifested much petulance, incivility, and the want of a spirit of accommodation. In short, there appears to be considerable wrangling and in- trigue in camp, which will probably result in a division of our party. Distance, 12 miles. May 17. — The morning was so delightful and the atmosphere so bracing, that I started on foot in advance of the train ; and noticing on the right some attractive objects at a distance of two or three miles, I left the trail, and proceeding towards them, passed over two or three elevated swells of the prairie and through several deep and lonely hollows. In one of the latter I saw two horses grazing. My first conjecture, seeing no signs of emigrants or Indians about, was, that these horses had strayed either from our own camp or from some of the forward emigrating parties, and I attempted to drive them before me ; but they were not to be controlled, running off in a contrary di- rection, prancing and snorting. In the next hollow, through which flows a small spring branch, I saw the embers of an Indian camp-fire, with the low, rude frame upon which their tent-skins had been spread sur- rounding it. I stirred the ashes and discovered a few live coals, showing that the camp had been occupied last night. The diminutive bottom bordering the miniature stream was covered with hazel brush, with a few alders and larger shrub- bery. I crossed through the brush, and was commencing the ascent on the other side, when six Indians, movmted on horses, came in siglit on tlie top of the hill, and began to descend it. They did not discover me immediately, but as soon as they did, they halted on the side of the hill. I was sufficiently near to see tliat one of them carried in liis hand a broadsword, with a bright metal scabbard, whicli glittered in tlie sunbeams. This Indian, the foremost of the party, was leading a horse. When 4* CNPLEASANT SURPRISE. 41 he saw me he gave the horse m charge of another. I had very carelessly, in order to be unincumbered by weight, left all my arms in the wagon, except my hatchet. I was now several miles distant from our train and entirely concealed from them, and there was no probability of any of our party passing this way. Not liking the manoeuvres of the Indians, or knowing what might be their designs, I never felt more regret for any misadventure, than for not bringing my gun and pistols with me. Ascertaining that my hatchet was in a right position for use, if necessary, I advanced up the hill to the place where the Indians had halted, and stopped. I ascertained that the party was composed of three men and three squaws. The men were armed with bows and arrows .md tomahawks. The leader spoke to me in English, and said, 'How do?" I replied and reciprocated the inquiry in the usual manner. He then asked, in his broken English, if there were more white men with me ? I replied that there was a great number just behind. He nodded his head and looked at his companions with an expression of disappointed intelligence. I asked him if he was a Kansas ? His reply was, " No, — Sac." I then passed, leaving them standing and apparently in earnest consultation. I was glad to be reheved of their company, for I felt doubtful of their intentions, and my arms were insufficient for a successful defence against them, if they had made an at- tack, — from wliich I believe they were deterred by the supposi- tion that my fellow-travellers would immediately be upon them. I rose the hill, and saw, at a distance of about two miles, a man on horseback riding in such a direction across the prairie that I could easily intercept him. I soon came up to him and found it to be Mr. Grayson, one of our own company, out hunting. We walked onward, and came up to the caravan while our party were nooning. After procuring from our wagon some refreshments, and rest- ing an hour, accompanied by Mr. Curry I again started a pe- destrian, in advance of the train of wagons, for a walk of twelve or fifteen miles, the nearest point in our route, to water. The 48 THIRST — ^UNRULY OXBK fresh breeze which had fanned us during the forenoon, died away entirely, and the sun shone with an almost scorching fer- vency of heat, unmitigated by a soUtary cloud on the face of the sky. The trail is smooth and hard, running .over the high table-land of the prairies. Clumps and rows of timber could be seen at long distances, giving to the background of the scenery a cultivated and inhabited aspect. The effects of the intense heat, aggravated by the severe exercise of fast walking, became uitolerably oppressive, and produced a thirst and faintness such as I had not before experienced. We hunted along the roadside for even a puddle of water to moisten our mouths and throats, but could discover none. Finding some prairie peas, we filled our pockets with them, and their juice afforded a httle relief to our thirst. At length we arrived within the distance of two miles of a line of timber on the left, indicative of water. Leaving the trail we marched directly towards it, and reaclung its banks we found it to be a small creek which empties into the Kansas river, about five miles distant. We satisfied our thirst with long draughts of the tepid water, and then plunged into the current of the stream to cool our almost broilmg flesh and purify our bodies from the dust accumulated upon them by the day's march. Refreshing ourselves, in the manner above described, for an hour, the invigorating effects of which were most salutary, we returned again to the trail, just as the train of wagons was coming up and passing. Many of the oxen weie so much exhausted that they could with difficulty move forward at a very slow pace. Their tongues were hanging out, and several had fallen down, being unable to proceed. One had died on the march. The order had been given to encamp on the oppo- site side of the stream, and several of the front wagons when they reached it attempted to cross ; but the oxen, mad with thirst and heat, when they came in sight of the water, became uncontrollable, and ran down the steep bank into the stream, threatening destruction to the wagons and their contents. All efforts to prevail upon them to leave the water and ascend the oppofiite bank, for a long time, were unavailing. Such being DIVISION OF PARTY 48 the difficulties, the order was countermanded, and our camp formed on the southeastern bank of the stream. Naar our camp there is a crescent-shaped chain of elevated mounds, the natural undulations of the praiiie, which I had plainly seen this morning when we commenced our march. These mounds stretch some four or five miles, and their bases being precipitous and wall-like, but for their extent, in outline they would represent the foundations and the fallen and ruined superstructure of some vast temple or overthrown city. This evening, after we had encamped, it appeared from a speech delivered by Mr. Dunleavy, that a portion of the company had determined to separate from the main party, being dissatis- fied with its present organization. Distance 24 miles. May 18. — Mr. Jacob, who had been appointed sub-captain of one of our divisions ; Mr. Kirkendall, who had been appointed quartermaster ; and Mr. Greenbury, our pilot, were dispatched early this morning to a mission about ten miles distant up the Kansas river, to ascertain if the river was fordable at that point. Colonel Russell, our captain, rode to the Kansas ferry, five miles distant, to ascertain if the ferry-boats were disengaged, and could, if we deemed it expedient to cross here, ferry our wagons over the river. Although the morning was fine and pleasant, it clouded up before eight o'clock and commenced raining, accompanied by thunder. After considerable labor and difficulty we succeeded in crossing the creek without any accident, except the breaking of an axletree of one of the wagons in descending the steep bank. Colonel Russell met us on the opposite bank, and, some conversation ensuing with the leaders of the disaffected party, it was proposed that the company should divide, it being too numerous and cumbrous for convenient progress. Those who were in favor of remaining with the originally organized com- pany were requested to move towards the ferry. Thirty-five of the wagons moved forward, and the remainder separated from them. The signs were so strongly indicative of a heav}' rain, that it was thought imprudent to delay crossing the Kansas until the 44 FERRIAGE — BIRTH OP TWINS. return of the gentlemen dispatched up the river this morning; but that we should proceed to the ferry and cross forthwith, The Kansas, at the ferry, which is owned by two half-breed Indians, is about two hundred yards in width at this time ; but at some seasons of the year, from its banks, it evidently is much narrower. The approach to it, on either side, is through a timbered bottom about three-fourths of a mile in width. The trees are chiefly oak, linden, and hickory. Hazel and a variety of underbrush and grapevines, make up the small shiiibbery of the bottom. The labor of ferrying our wagons over was commenced at one o'clock. The wagons were hauled as near the boat-landing as they could be by the teams, and then with their loads in them were lifted and pushed into the boats by the united strength of the men. By hard and unremitting toil the thirty five wagons, which now constituted our train, were safely trans ported to the other side ; and all our oxen, hoises, and loose stock swam over, by six o'clock, p. m. The fee for ferriage, per wagon, was one dollar. Two boats are employed, and they are large enough to transport two wagons each trip. They are pushed across the stream with long poles handled by Indians, All being over, we moved forward about three miles and en- camped on the bank of Soldier Creek, a small stream emptying into the Kansas. While on our march from the Kansas to our encampment, Mr. Branham and myself, being in advance of the main party, discovered an abundance of ripe strawberries. We stopped and gathered several quarts, and, carrying them to camp, they were served up by Mrs. B., with rich cream and loaf-sugar, a genuine luxury in this wild region. This morning, before we commenced our march, a Mrs. Hall, the wife of one of the emigrants, was safely delivered of a paii of twins. Thus two were added to our number. These young natives of the wilderness were appropriately named. The mother and children were doinjr well this eveninjj. Mr. Webb, editor of "the "Independence Expositor," accom- panied by Mr. Hay, a great-grandson of Daniel Boone, arrived METHODIST MISSION. 46 at our camp, dii-ect from the settlements, just after dark. They came express to communicate to us the last intelligence we shall receive from the United States, before reaching the Pacific. They brought with them all the letters at the Independence and Westport post-offices addressed to emigrants, and several files of papers to the latest dates. These gave positive infor- mation of the existence of hostilities between Mexico and the United States on the Rio Grande, and confirmed the rumor respecting the perilous situation of Gen. Taylor. How this important event is to affect us upon our arrival in California, it is impossible to foresee. No one, however, is in the least dis- posed to turn back in consequence of it. Distance 10 miles. CHAPTER IV. Methodist Mission on the Kansas — Soldier Creek — Lustration — A ruined Indian town — A rose in the wilderness — Another division — Kansas Indian towns — Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee — Prairie potato — Mountain trap- pers — Beauty of scenery and fertility of soil — Vermilion Creek — Brilliant meteor — Big Blue River — Prairie-pea — Legislation on the prairies Mat 19. — We remained encamped to-day, in order to enable Mr. Boone, a grandson of Daniel Boone, and his family and party, who wish to join us, to come up. Messrs. Kirkendall, Jacob, and Greenbury, reached camp this morning about seven o'clock, relieving me of some uneasiness on their account. They had found a ford, near the mission, about twelve miles up the Kansas ; but when they returned to the ferry, finding that our train had all passed over, and it being late, they remained during the night with the party that separated from us this morning. Tlie mission which they had visited, and at which they were well received and entertained, is an establishment for the edu- cation and christianization of the Indians, supported in part by the United States government, and under the patronage and 46 SOLDIER CREEK LUSTRATION superintendence of the Methodist Episcopal " Church of the United States. There is a blacksmith's shop at the mission, and an extensive farm under cultivation. The stream on which we are encamped is called " Si they needed for their joiu-ney into the settlements. Our camp is on the south bank of the Platte, which at this point presents a sheet of turbid water, between two and three miles in breadth, dotted with mmierous small green islets, which give a most pleasing rehef to the monotonous landscape. Distance 17 miles. June 12. — The mornings are uniformly deUghtful and the atmosphere elastic and bracing, in this region. The sun shine-s with great power in the middle of the day, but visually a fresh breeze mitigates the intensity of its heat. The banks of the river, like those of the Mississippi, are con- siderably higher than the sm-face of the plain next to the bluft's. There is a verj^ gradual descent from the stream to the point where the bluffs 'comiect with the plain. This is produced by the deposite of detritus when tlie water from the melting snows above overflow the banks of the river, and partially inundate the valley. This afternoon, accompanied by Mr. Kirkendall, I left tlie train for the purpose of crossing the valley and exploring the hills or bluffs, in search of buffalo. We saw grazing on the plain, near the foot of the bluffs, numerous herds of antelopes ; but could never approach them within lifle-shot. We entered the bluffs through a gorge or ra\'ine, which we followed for about two miles, when vt^e ascended to the summit of one of the highest elevations. From this, on one side, we could see the Platte and its broad valley for a long distance. On the other side were the innumerable sandy peaks, assuming every variety of rude and misshapen configuration ; and separated from each other by deep hollows and ravines and impassable gulfs, hollowed out by torrents of water, or the action of the winds upon tlie dry and sandy composition of the ground. More wUd, desolate, and i*ugged scenery than is presented by these bluffs, after you enter them, is rarely seen. Our attempt to reach the prairie, where, from the signs, we expected to find FIRST BUFFALO HEAT. 86 buffalo, was abortive. After winding over the steep ridges and through the deep hollows for several hours, we at last became so entangled, that for some time we felt doubtful of forcing our way out, without returning by the same route which we had come. This, at the risk in several instances of our horses' necks, we finally accomplished, reaching the valley in safety. I noticed numerous fungi, of a globular shape ; some of which were ten inches in diameter, and perfectly wliite. Indications of iron and copper ores were seen in several places. We encamped this afternoon on a small branch, the waters of which, when they flow, empty into the Platte. At present, the water stands in stagnant pools. A few cotton-wood trees are scattered along the stream. The dead limbs of these, with " buftalo chips," compose our fuel. Mr. Reed shot a large elk to-day, and brought the carcass into camp. The flesh of the elk is coarse, but this was tender, fat, and of a good flavor. Distance 16 miles. June 13. — The wood- work of many of the wagon-wheels have contracted so much from the efiects of the dry atmosphere on the Platte, that the tires have become loose, and require re- setting. There being sufficient wood to make the fires necessary for this purpose at this encampment, it was determined that we should remain for the day. Messrs. Grayson and Boggs, who crossed the Platte yesterday afternoon for the purpose of hunting, returned this morning with their horses loaded with the choice pieces of a buffalo cow which they had killed about fifteen miles below our camp. The meat was tender and juicy, but not fat. They reported that they saw large numbers of buftalo on the opposite side of the river ; and that they could apprc ach them within rifle-shot without difficulty. The day has been pleasant, with a most agreeable temperature under the shade of our tents. June 14. — An Indian was discovered last night by one of the guard, lurking in the bushes ; no doubt intending to steal some of our horses He ran off" with great speed when the alarm was given. We resumed our march at the usual he u*. About five miles 8 86 FATAL EFFECTS OP MEDICIKB. from our encampment we were met by three men belonging t« an emigrant company, which they h^d left last night about tweuty-five or thirty miles in advance. They were in search of a doctor. A boy eight or nine years of age had had his leg cnished by falling from the tongue of a wagon, and being run over by its wheels ; and besides, there were in the company a number of persons ill with fevers and other complaints. There being no physician in our party ,^and possessing, from my former studies and later experience, some pathological and anatomical knowledge, together with such a knowledare of the pharmacopoeia and materia medica as to be fully sensible that many patients are killed, rather than cured, by the injudicious use of medicine, I had consented on several occasions, when persons belonging to our company were seized with sickness, to give them such advice and to prescribe and administer such medicines as I thought would be beneficial. I informed the patients in all cases that I was no " doctor," but acted rather in the character of the " good Samaritan." By using this phrase I would not be understood as assuming to myself the merits and virtues of the indi\adual who, under that name, has been ren- dered forever memorable and illustrious for his humanity by the impressive parable of our Saviour. In all cases of sickness in our party where I was called, I have the satisfaction of know- ing that no one died. This I do not attribute to any medical skill or science of my own, but to the fact that medicines were exhibited in small quantities, and such as would not crush the recuperative powers and sanative impiilses of nature. On this long and toilsome journey, during wliich it is impossible to sus- pend the march for any length of time, doses of exhausting medicines should never be administered to the patient. If the} are, the consequences most frequently must result in death. The fatigues of the journey are as great as any ordinary consti- tution can bear; and the relaxing and debilitating effects of medicines injudiciously prescribed in large quantities, are often, I believe, fatal, when the patient would otherwise recover. It 80 turned out that I had acquired the imdeserved repu- tetiou of being a great "doctor," in several of the emigrant MOSQUITOES AND GNATS. 87 companies in advance and in our rear, and the three men who had met us, above noticed, had come for me. I told them, when they appKed to me, that I was not a physician, that 1 had no surgical instruments, and that I doubted if I could be of any service to those who were suffering. They stated in reply that they had heard of me, and that they would not be satisfied unless I accompanied them in all haste to their en- campment. I finally consented to their urgent demands, feel- ing desirous of alleviating as far as I could the miseries of the sick and disabled, which here are more dreadful than can be imagined. Making my arrangements as soon as I could, I mounted the horse which had been brought for my conveyance — one of those hard trotters whose unelastic gait is painfully fatiguing to the rider. You are obliged to protect yourself from the concussion caused by the contact of his feet with the earth, by springing from the saddle at each stride. We crossed, in a few miles, a small branch shaded by some oak-trees. In the bank of this we foimd a spring of cool water. There was, however, such a multitude of mosquitoes and gnats surrounding it, that we had but little enjoyment in its generous supply of refreshing waters. The air is in places filled Avith these troublesome insects, and the venom of their bite is frequently seriously afflictive. At the spring above alluded to, the trail recedes from the river, and runs along imder the bluffs, which, to-day, seemed to shut from us every breath of air, rendering the heat of the sun oppressive almost to suffocation. I observed that some of the bluffs which we passed were composed of calcareous rock, and the debris below was of the same composition. I shot with my pistol, while riding this morning, an antelope, at a distance of 150 yards. After a most fatiguing and exhausting ride, we reached the encampment to which I had been called about five o'clock, p. m. The men who had been sent for me had given no description of the case of fracture, other than that which has above been stated. I supposed, as a matter of course, that the accident had occurred whe preceding day. When I reached the tent of the unfortunate family to which the boy belonged, I found him stretched out 88 BARBAROUS SURGICAL OPERATION upon a bench made of planks, ready for the operation which they expected I would perform. I soon learned, from the mother, that the accident occasioning the fracture had occurred nine days previously. That a person professing to be a " doc- tor," had wrapped some hnen loosely about the leg, and made a sort of trough, or plank box, in which it had been confined. In this condition the child had remained, without any dressing of his wounded Umb, amtU last night, when he called to his mother, and told her that he could feel worms crawling in his leg ! This, at first, she supposed to be absurd ; but the boy insisting, an examination of the wound for the first time was made, and it was discovered that gangrene had taken place, and tlie limb of the child was swarming with maggots ! They then immediately dispatched their messengers for me. I made an examination of the fractured limb, and ascertained that what the mother had stated was correct. The limb had been badly fractured, and had never been bandaged ; and from neglect gangrene had supervened, and the child's leg, from his foot to his knee, was in a state of putrefaction. He was so much en- feebled by his sufierings that death was stamped upon his countenance, and I was satisfied that he could not live twenty- four hours, much less survive an operation. I so informed the mother, stating to her that to amputate the Hmb would only hasten the boy's death, and add to his pains while li\ang ; de- clining at the same time, peremptorily, all participation in a proceeding so useless and barbarous under the circumstances. She implored me, with tears and moans, not thus to give up her child without an effort. I told her again, that all efforts to save him would be useless, and only add to the anguish ol which he was now dying. But tins could not satisfy a mother's affection. She could not thus yield her offspring to the cold embrace of death, and a tomb in the wilderness. A Canadian Frenchman, who belonged to this emigrating party, was present, and stated that he had formerly been an assistant to a surgeon in some hospital, and had seen many operations of this nature performed, and that he would amputate the child's limb, if I declined doing it, and tb« I DISTRESSING SCENE. 89 mother desired it. I could not repress an involuntary shud- der when I heard this proposition, the consent of the weeping woman, and saw the preparations made for the butchery of the httle boy. The insti-uments to be used were a common butcher-knife, a carpenter's handsaw, and a shoemaker's awl to take up the arteries. The man commenced by gashing the flesh to the bone around the calf of the leg, which was in a state of putrescence. He then made an incision just below the knee and commenced sawing ; but before he had completed the amputation of the bone, he concluded that the operation should be performed above the knee. During these demonstrations the boy never uttered a groan or a complaint, but I saw from the change in his countenance, that he was dying. The opera- tor, without noticing this, proceeded to sever the leg above the knee. A cord was drawn round the limb, above the spot where it was intended to sever it, so tight that it cut through the skin into the flesh. The knife and saw were then apphed and the limb amputated. A few drops of blood only oozed from the stump ; the child was dead — his miseries were over ! The scene of weeping and distress which succeeded this tragedy cannot be described. The mother was frantic, and the brothers and sisters of the deceased boy were infected by the intense grief of their parent. From this harrowing spectacle, I was called to visit the father of the dead child, who was lying prostrate in his tent, incapable of moving a limb, with an inflam- matory rheumatism, produced, as I supposed from his relation, by wading streams and exposure to rains d\u-ing the com- mencement of the journey, while under the influence of large doses of calomel. He was sufiering from violent pains in all of his bones, which, added to his mental afiiiction from the death of his child, seemed to overwhelm him. He told me that he had been unable to walk or sit upright for four weeks. He begged that I woidd prescribe something for his rehef. I comforted him with all the encouragement in reference to his case that I could conscientiously give, and left some medicines, enjoining him, however, not to deviate the thousandth part of a scruple from my directiors, unless he wished to die at oncQ 8-- 90 MEDICAL PRACTICE. The propensity of those afflicted by disease, on this journey b frequently, to devour medicines a^ they would food, undei the delusion that Urge quantities will more speedily and effect- ually produce a cure. The reverse is the fact, and it is some- time dangerous to trust a patient with more than a single dose. From this famUy I was called to visit a woman, the wife of one of the emigrants, who had been Ul for several weeks of an intermittent fever. She had taken large quantities of medicine, and her strength and constitution appeared to be so much ex- ha\isted, that I had no hopes of her recovery, unless the company to which she belonged could s\ispend their march for a week or more, and give her rest. This I commimicated to her husband, and left such medicines, and gave such advice in regard to nursing as I thought would be the most useful in hei case. A yoimg man appUed to me for relief, who after I had examined him, I beUeved to be laboring under a disease of the heart. I told him that I could do nothing for him ; that the journey might effect his cure, but that no medicine which I possessed woiild have any other than an injurious effect. After \asiting some four or five other persons more or less indisposed, and prescribing for them, by invitation of CoL Thornton I walked from this encampment to his, about three- fourths of a mUe distant. Col. T., it will be recollected, was a member of the Oregon party, which separated fi'om us about two weeks since. In crossing the Platte bottom to his encamp- ment, we forded two small streams flowing into the main river. Their waters are brackish and bitter with saline and alkaline impregnation. On our arrival at Col. T.'s camp, my old acquaint- ances and late fellow-travellers were rejoiced to see me. They evinced their pleasure by many kind and cordial manifestations. Mrs. Thornton, a lady of education and polished manners, re- ceived me in her tent as she would have done in her parlor at home. I was most hospitably and agreeably entertained, by these my respected friends. Between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, I was invited to attend a wedding wliicli was to take place in the encamp- meuL The oume of Ihe biidegroom I did not leam, but the DEATH — FUNERAL WEDDING BfRTH. 91 bride was a Miss Lard, a very pretty young lady, who, I doubt not, will be the ancestress of future statesmen and heroes on the shores of the Pacific. The wedding ceremonies were performed by the Rev. Mr. Cornwall, and took place in the tent of her father. The candles were not of wax nor very numerous, nor were the ornaments of the apartment very gorgeous or the bridal bed very voluptuous. The wedding-cake was not frosted with sugar, nor illustrated with matrimonial devices, after the manner of confectioners in the " settlements ;" but cake was handed round to the whole party present. There was no music or dancing on the occasion. The company separated soon after the ceremony was performed, leaving the happy pair to the enjoyment of their connubial felicities. This was the first wedding in the wilderness, at which I had been a guest. After we left the bridal tent, in looking across the plain, I could see from the light of the torches and lanterns the funeral procession that was conveying the corpse of the little boy whom I saw expire, to his last resting-place, in this desolate wilder- ness. The faint glimmer of these hghts, with a knowledge of the melancholy duties which those carrying them were per- forming, produced sensations of sadness and depression. While surveying this mournful funeral scene, a man arrived from another encampment about a mile and a half distant, and informed me that the wife of one of the emigrants had just been safely deliv- ered of a son, and that there was, in consequence of this event, great rejoicing. I could not but reflect upon the singular con- currence of the events of the day. A death and funeral, a wedding and a birth, had occurred in this wilderness, within a diameter of two miles, and within two hours' time ; and to- morrow, the places where these events had taken place, would be deserted and unmarked, except by the grave of the unfor- tunate boy deceased ! Such are the dispensations of Provi- dence ! — such the checkered map of human sutfering and hu- man enjoyment ! I saw numbers of buflfalo to-day, and large numbers of an- telope. The grass surrounding the encampments is green ana luxuriant, but more distant from the river it is short and thin, 92 EXTREME HEAT. and has a blighted appearance. Buffalo chips constitute the only fuel. Having left my thermometer in the wagon, I could not make an observation to-night. Wind east, with clouds and flashes of lightning. Distance 30 miles. CHAPTER VII. • Country becomes more arid and sterile — Return party from Oregon — Herds of bufFalo— Dead oxen — Chalybeate spring at the ford of the Platte — Killing buffaloes — Buffalo meat — Resignation of Colonel Rus- sell and other officers — Determination to change our mode of travel — Ash Hollow — General post-office. — Grave opened by wolves — Chimney Rock in the distance — Court-House Rock — Foetid water and tainted atmosphere — Quicksands — Near view of Court-House Rock — A man m a fright — Near view of Chimney Rock — Scenery at Chimney Rock — Horse-trading — Furious storm — Scott's Bluff — First view of Rocky Mountains — Horse Creek — Fort Bernard — Fort Laramie — Sioux In- dians — Beauty of the Sioux women — Sioux Lodges. June 15. — Accompanied by two men, I started back on the irail to meet the train to which I was attached. We came in sight of the advance party after travelling about four miles, and I stopped until the wagons came up, — the two men leaving me in pursuit of their own party. When our train came up, 1 as- certained that they had travelled yesterday 23 miles, and about three miles this morning. Colonel Russell, our captain, had been seized during the night with a violent attack of chills and fever, and I found him in his wagon quite ill. As wc advance up the Platte, tlie soil becomes less fertile. The vegetation is thin and short. The river to-day has gener- ally been eight or ten miles from us on our right. Ledges of calcareous rock frequently display themselves in the bluflfs. The lieat of the sun during the day's march, has been exces- wvely oppressive. Not u cloud lias exhibited itself on the fac« TRAVELLERS FROM OREGON. 93 of the heavens, nor a tree or a shrub on the surface of the plain over which we have travelled, or in the distance as far as the eye could reach. We encamped this afternoon about a mile from the junction of the north and south forks of the Platte, near a spring of cold pure water, than which to the weary and thirsty traveller in this region nothing cim be more grateful and luxmious. Na- ture, in tliis region, is parsimonious m the distribution of such bounties, and consequently when met with, their value is price- less to those who have suffered through a long day's march under a burning sun, and whose throats are parched with dust and heat. Several of our party who have been hunting to-day, reported that they saw large droves of buffalo on the plains to the south of us, numbering from five hundred to one thousand. Distance travelled from my place of encampment last night 18 miles. June 16. — A number of our party were seized with violent and painful sickness, brought on no doubt by indulging too freely in the cold water of the spring. Our route to-day has been up the south fork of the Platte, the trail generally run- ninff throuo'h the bottom near the river. The bottom is much narrower than on the main Platte, and the bluffs are more gen- tle and sloping. The grass near the bank of the stream is green and luxuriant, but near the bluffs it is very thin ; and the soU still farther back is, in many places, quite bare of vege- tation. About 12 o'clock we met a party of five men, from. Oregon, retm-ning to the United States. They were a portion of a com- pany which originally numbered eighteen, and which left Ore- gon city on the first of March. They stopped at the Walla- walla mission one month, and the residue of the time they have been marching. Their baggage and provisions are packed on mules and horses, and they average from twenty-five to thirty mUes per day. One of the party having dislocated his shoulder, with three others stopped at Fort Laramie until the jijm-ed man could recover s\iflficiently to travel. The remain- der of the' company, they stated, were about fifteen miles in 04 rORD OF THE PLATTE CHALYBEATE SPRING. their rear. They had not been molested in any manner by tht Indians on their route, although they had met them in various places. They had kept an accoimt of the emigrant wagons, as they met them, and reported the number at 430, which, added to our own, make a total of 470. These are about equally divided between California and Oregon. They gave a flattering description of the fertile portions of Oregon. After visiting the United States, they intend to return and settle permanently on the Pacific. We saw, in the course of the day, several herds of buffalo grazing on the plains two or three miles distant from the trail. A large and fat cow was chased and shot near our camp this afternoon, by Mr. Grayson, supplying us with an abundance of excellent fresh beef. Cacti, tulips, and the primrose, have dis- played their blossoms along the trail dming our march. Soon after we encamped, this afternoon, nine men belonging to the Oregon party, reported by those we met this morning, came up, and, by our invitation, encamped with us. Among this party is an intelligent young man by the name of Wall, from St. Louis, who has been on the Pacific coast of South and North America, and among the islands, for some years, and is now returning home by this route. We learned from Mr. Wall that some of the forward emigrant companies had lost their cattle and horses by Indian depredations. We pass, every day, several cattle which have been left behind, too much crippled, or exhausted by fatigue, to proceed. The Platte rose five inches last night. Distance 11 miles. June IV. — We reached the ford of the Platte about two o'clock, p. M., and ascertained by an examination that, although the river was still rising, our wagons could pass over without much difficulty. While waiting at the river for our party to come up, I discovered, a short distance above Avhere the trail enters tlie stream to cross it, a large spring of cold water, sircjiigly impregnated with iron, and slightly with sulphur. I drank freely of the water of this spruig dming the afternoon, and found its effects upon mc beneficial. I would advise thosi emigrants passing this way, who are afflicted with the ordinarv SHOOTING BUFFALOES. 9i complaints on this portion of the route, to visit this spring, and when they leave it to fill their casks with the water, for use on the road. Our wagons were all passed safely over the river before sun- set, an event thought to be worthy of general congratulation. Tlve stream was rising rapidly ; and when so high that it cannot be forded, owing to the absence of timber, it forms an impassa- ble ban-ier to the progress of emigrant parties. Their only course, in such a case, is to halt until the water falls. Two or three buffaloes were killed near our camp this evening. Dis- tance 17 miles. June 18. — The trail to-day has run along the north bank of the south fork of the Platte, and we encamped at that point where the road diverges from the stream to cross over the prai- rie to the north fork. The soU of the bottom is sandy ; and the grass, which appears to have been bhghted by drought, is short, thin, and brown. We saw large herds of buffalo during our march, some of which approached us so nearly that there was danger of their mingling with our loose cattle. The buffalo-hunt is a most exciting sport to the spectator as well as to those engaged in it. Their action when running is awkward and clumsy, but their speed and endurance are such, that a good horse is required to overtake them or break them down in a fair race. Although the uninitiated in this sport may without much difficulty wound one of these animals with his rifle or pistol, it require." the skill and practice of a good hunter to place the ball in those parts which are fatal, or which so much disable the strong and shaggy quadruped as to prostrate him or force him to stop running. I have known a buffalo to be perforated with twenty balls, and yet be able to maintain a distance between himself and nis piu-- suers. Experienced hunters aim to shoot them in the lungs or the spine. From the skull the ball rebounds, flattened as from a rock or a surface of iron, and has usually no other effect upon the animal than to increase his speed. A wound in the spine brings them to the ground instantly, and after a woimd m the lungs then* career is Soon suspended from difficulty of breathing 96 RESIGNATION OF OFFICERS They usually sink, rather than fall, upon their knees and haunches, and in that position remain until they are dead, rarely rolling upon their backs. The flesh of the bull is coarse, dry, tough, and generally poor. The beef from a young fat heifer or cow, (and many of them are very fat,) is superior to oiu- best beef. The unctuous and juicy substances of the flesh are distributed through all the muscular fibres and membranes in a manner and an abundance highly agreeable to the eye and delightful to the palate of the epicure. The choice pieces of a fat cow, are a strip of flesh along each side of the spine from the shoulders to the rump ; the tender-loin ; the liver ; the heart ; the tongue ; the hump- ribs; and an intestinal vessel or organ, commonly called by hunters the "marrow-gut," which, anatomically speaking, is the chylo-poetic duct. This vessel contains an unctuous matter resembling marrow, and hence its vulgar name. No delicacy which I have ever tasted of the flesh kind can surpass this when properly prepared. All parts of the buffalo are corre- spondingly palatable with those of tame cattle; but when they are abundant, the principal part of the carcass is left by tht hunter to feast the beasts and birds of prey. This evening, after we encamped, Colonel Russell, who has been suff"ering for several days from an attack of bilious fever, tendered his resignation of the office of captain of our party. His resignation having been accepted by a vote of the company uss*^n>blpd. Ex-governor Boggs was called to the chair. A mo- tion was then made by E. Bryant, and unanimously adopted, that the thanks of the company be expressed to Colonel Russell for the manner in which he has discharged his duties since his election to the office of captain. The other subordinat .^, officers then resigned their places. These were Messrs. Kirkendall, Oonner, Jacob, and West. A similar vote of tlianks was adopt- ed in regard to them. Mr. F. West was afterwards f.ppointeci captain pro lem., and the meeting adjoiuned. Distance 12 miles. June 19. — A paity of eight or ten persons, including mv8^louds in the west, which soon disappeared. The Uttle grove near our camp was rendered musical by the notes of the wren and other feathered choristers. The buffalo-gnats and mosouitoes, as usual, were excessively annoying just after sumisc. Tlie face of the country for several miles of our march this morning, presented more habitable indications than X have observed since leaving Fort Laramie. Deer and antelope were frequently seen grazing at a distance, and birds of various plumage and notes were flitting across our path and perching themselves upon the low bhrubbery These moving objects relieve the death-Uke -orpor and silence which generally pre- vail. Crossing two small blanches we struck the Platte onoe 122 SHRUBS DROnOHT. more about ten o'clock, a. m. The channel of the Platte her» is not more than two hundred feet in breadth. We travelled up the south bank of the river imtil we encamped for the day Our camp is in a handsome bottom covered with green, lusu- riant grass, and ornamented with a grove of tall, straiarht cotto/) wood trees. Jacob brought into camp a specimen of coal taken from the bank of the Platte Dy ^ne ot tt»e emigrants. It resembled our commom bitiuninous coal, 0i.*i when pliced on the fire it did not seem to ignite or blaze freely. This* s the first positive indication of the existence of coal I have noticed during our journey. A shrub called grease- wood, about three feet in height, with a bright green foliage containing a fetid, oily substance, in places disputes the occupancy of the soU with the wild sage. The sun-flower, wild daisy, and a flower emit- ting an odor resembling the heliotrope, have exhibited themselves. We foimd here two emigrant companies, one for Oregon and one for California. One of them was encamped on account of the illness and expected death of one of its members, a woman. No rain appears to have fallen in this vicinity for a long time. The groimd is so hard that it is with difticulty that we can force our mule-pickets into it. While on the march, we are frequently enveloped in clouds of dust. Distance 28 miles. July 6. — Travelling up the river seven or eight miles, on the south bank, we forded it just below a grove of cotton- wood trees. From the ford the trail ascends the high bluifs over- looking the valley of the river, from which we had a view of several green islands, one of which resembles a heart so nearly in shape that we named it Heart Island. Vegetation over the expanse of table-land on our right is brown and dead with drought. After a march of several mUes on the bluff's, we crossed a deep ravine or chasm, through which we descended agciin to the bottom of the Platte, where we found Capt. West's company of emigrants encamped for the day. Several of the emigrating parties have been encamped here, and have jerked buffiilo meat. By invitation, Mr. John C. Buchamm, of Lex kigton, Ey., joined us at tliis place. BITTER WATER. 123 After halting a short time, our party, with the exception of myself moved on. I waited for Mr. Buchanan to complete his arrangements for separating from those with whom he had heretofore travelled. We left the emigrant encampment, both of us much encumbered with his baggage, about five o'clock, p. M. The traU here finally leaves the Platte river. Ascending the bluflfs on the right, we pursued our way over an and plain, the only vegetation upon which is the wUd sage, grease-wood, and a few perishing plants. We passed immense piles of rocks, red and black, sometimes in columnar and some- times in conical and pyramidal shapes, thrown up by volcanic convulsions. These, with deep ravines, and chasms, and wide- spread sterility and desolation, are the distinguishing features of the landscape. We reached our camp at a spring impreg- nated with salt and sulphur, about ten o'clock at night. An emigrant company had made their camp here. In the course of the march we have passed several small lakes or ponds, incrusted with the carbonate of soda or common salera- tus. Their appearance resembles congealed water. A few buffaloes have been noticed at a distance during our march. On oiir right, this afternoon, at a very great distance, I observed the summits of several high mountains covered with snow. Distance 28 mUes. July 7. — I was seized, during the night, with a violent and exhausting sickness. The soil and water of the coxxntry throxxgh which we are now travelling, are strongly impregnated with salt, alkah, and sulphur ; rendering the use of the water, in large quantities, deleteiious to health, if not dangerous. I was scarcely able to moxmt my mxde when we commenced the day's march. A ride of fourteen miles, over an arid, xmdxdating plain, with a growth of stxmted wild sage, brought us to a small grassy hollow, through which rxms a faint stream of limpid water. Nothing, in my condition of extreme thirst and feverish excitement, much aggravated by the hot sxm and dust, could be more cheering thac this agreeable sight. Dismoxmtuig fron my mule, in an almost fainting state, I hastened to the stream, 124 SWEETWATER MOUNTAINS. and sitting down beside it, filled my cup with the water ; but great was my disappointment, when raising the cup to my hps 1 foimd the Uquid bitter with salt and alkali, and imdrinkable. I dug several holes with my hand and cup in the sand, close to the stream, hoping to obtain water less impregnated with these disagreeable substances, but mthout success. Some one of our party in searching about, however, discovered at the lower end of the Uttle valley, in the side of a bank, a small spiing and a basin of fresh cold water. To describe the deliciousness of this, as it tasted to me in my diseased and feveiish condition, would be impossible. I drank draught after draught, and then making a shade from the sun with my blankets, laid down to rest while oiir mules were grazing. The cooling water of the spring, and an hour's rest, re\ived my strength ; and at three o'clock we resumed our march. Five miles from this we passed another spring of cold water ; the purest I have tasted since leaving the Blue River. It is on the right hand of the trail, and sm-rounded b}' clumps of witch- hazel and alders. Ascending from this spring several miles, we mounted the summit of a dividing ridge, from which we had a view of the Sweetwater River Mountains, raising their bald rocky pinnacles at a distance of some twenty or thirty miles. Descending from this ridge, we reached, about sunset, a small Btream, and encamped upon its grassy banks. A number oi small herds of buffalo have been seen during our day's ride, We have passed several dead oxen, and others alive, but ex aausted by the journey. Distance 30 milef INDBPBNDENCE ROCK DEVILS OATB. t2b CHAPTER IX. .ndependence Rock — Sweetwater River — Devil's Gate — A solitary traveller — Distaut view of Wind River Mountains — Chalky Lakes — Deleterious effects of milk — Sickness iu emigrating parties — Another return party from California — Buffalo-chase — Mortality among the oxen of the emigrants — Wolves in chase of diseased oxen — South Pass of the Rocky Mountains — Pacific Springs — Last view of the Atlantic slope — Jacob's Tower — LittJe Sandy River — Troublesome visiters — The Mirage — Big Sandy River — Greenwood's CutofF— Curious incident — Snake Indian hunting-party. July 8. — We reached about noon a well-known landmark of the mountains, called " Independence Rock ;" from the circumstance of the celebration of the fourth of July here by one of the first emigrant companies to Oregon. It is an isolated elevation, composed of masses of rock, about one hundred feet in height, and a mile or more in chcumference, standing in a central and conspicuous position near the northern bank of the Sweetwater river, and between the ranges of moimtains which border the valley of that stream. A multitude of names, to the niunber, I should suppose, of several thousand, are painted and graven upon this rock. I did not follow the example of those who have preceded me, and my name is not there. Near this place are several small lakes, the waters of which having evaporated, have left a deposite or incrustation of the carbonate of soda. They resemble ponds of frozen water. Col. Russell and myself supplied ourselves with saleratus, for cuhnary purposes, from this bovmtiful natural manufactory of this article, without price. Proceeding up the Sweetwater river about five miles, we passed what is called the Devil's Gate ; a remarkable fissure in the rocky mountain-wall, which, above this point, rims parallel with and within a short distance of the stream. The fissure is about thirty feet in breadth, and the perpendicular walls on each side of the channel of the stream which flows through it, are, by estimate, between two and three hxmdred feet in height, perhaps more. 11* 126 SWEETWATER RIVER. We encamped just above the Devil's Gate about twelve D'clock, M. The camp of Captain Cooper's emigrant company was a short distance from us. By invitation, Colonel Russeli and myself dined at the tent of Captain C, who, with a large and interestmg family of sons and daughters, is dD. It was a satisfaction to know that we were in sight of the crest of the Rocky Mountains, the point where the waters of the continent di\'ide, taking different courses — the one flowing into the Atlantic, the other into the Pacific. We passed through a narrow valley several miles in length, the surface of which is white with an alkahne efflorescence. A small stream flows through this valley, the water of which is bitter with alkaline impregnation. Several numerous flocks of antelope have been in sight to-day. Returning to the Sweetwater about four o'clock, p. m., we 3ncamped near a cluster of small willows, after a continuous march of nine hours. The ranges of hills running parallel with the river have, at this point, lost in some degree their rocky characteristics. They are not so elevated, and more gentle and sloping. The bottom on which we are encamped is covered with the common thistle, and there is but little grass. The mules, however, crop the thistle-blossoms, and seem to relish them. The atmosphere is filled with swarms of mosquitoes, which bite with a fierceness far greater than their civilized breth- ren of the " settlements." Colonel Russell complains of severe and painful sickness to-night. Brown shot an antelope in the sage near our camp ; but lea^^ng the carcass where it fell, in order to obtain a mule to pack it on, before he could retm-n to it acrain tlie wolves had devoured it. Distance 33 miles. July 11. — We continued our route up the valley of the Sweetwater, occasionally leaving the bank of the stream and strikiniT over the rollino: and arid table-land to cut off the bends We nooned near some small lakes or ponds, the water of whicL is so saturated a\ itli a cretaceous substance as to be unfit for use. Some of our mules drank of it, — others refused. Brown's Oregon emigrating-company, consisting of about thirty wagons, nooned at the same place. They supplied us with milk anci buttermilk — frc'f|iu'ntly used by the emigrants as substitutes lor water, I'ut I ;im inclined to the belief that the large quantities of milk drank by the emigrating parties, are productive of the fatal febrile complaint known among them a.>- " camp-fever." SICKNESS OF EMIGRANTS. 129 Most of the emigrant families drive along with them several cows which are regularly milked, and in a thirsty state the milk is frequently drank. in quarts, and sometimes gallons, hi the coiirse of a few hours. It also composes a portion of every meal, being used as water or coffee dui'ing the heart)- re- pasts upon fat middling of bacon and buffalo meat. The cow which yields the milk, from being constantly exercised in the hot sun, with little rest day or night, is frequently in a dis- eased or feverish state. It is more than probable that the dis- ease afflicting the animal is communicated, through the use of its milk, to those who drink it in the quantities which I have named. Besides this, the cows are frequently forced to sub- sist upon herbage, the poisonous qualities of which are im- parted, in some extent, to their milk, and thus communicated to those who use it too freely. This conclusion may be erroneous, but it has subsequently been confirmed by Dr. Saunderson, a surgeon of the army, who accompanied General Kearny's expedition to New Mexico and California, for whose opinion 1 entertain great respect. There were in Mr. Brown's company several persons pros- trated with fevers and other diseases. I was called upon as usual, when passing emigrant parties, to prescribe and give .id- vice in these cases, and the short time I remained here was busily employed among the sick. One of the cases of fever was a young man about twenty-one years of age. He had been ni ten or twelve days. I found him in the wagon in a state of half stupor. His pulse was slow and irregular, some- times rolling with a throbbing volume, then sinking to a wiry feel. A cold perspiration stood on his forehead. Another case to which I was called, was that of a woman of about thirty-five or forty. She was of a natvirally vigorous con- stitution, and inclined to corpulency. I foimd her prostrate in a close-tented wagon, upon the covering of which the sun was pour- ing its almost scorching rays. A burning fever had flushed hei face to the color almost of scarlet, except small circles of corpse like pallor around the lips and eyes. Her respiration was so diffi- cult, that frequently she gasped to recover her breath. Sh« 130 AFFECTING SCENE. could not speak audibly, but made known her wants in whis- pers. I felt a shudder of painful horror when looking upon her, distorted as her features were with agonizing suffering. Her daughters, three interesting girls from twelve to seventeen years, gathered around me with anxious and inquiring looks, watching every expression of my countenance while I was ma- king the examination. I learned from her husband, that some two or three weeks ago, after having labored hard in washing during a hot day exposed to the sun, she had imprudently bathed in very cold water. The consequence was, a severe cold with a high fever. The affection had increased, until she had been brought to the condition in which I saw her. Calomel and other medicines had been administered in large quantities without any bene- ficial result. She continued to get worse every day. The wo- man was fearfully attacked with pneumonia, and the violence of the disease, with the exhausting medicines she had taken, had re- duced her to a state of helpless feebleness. She begged me in whispers to give her something to relieve the pressure upon. her lungs, and restore her breathing. Poor woman ! I thought her breathing hours were nearly over ! The daughters, with anxiety and grief depicted upon their countenances, questioned me : " Do you think she is better ?" " Do you think she will get well ?" " Wliat will you give her ?" I shook my head, and told them that there was hope while there was life, but that they alone could save their mo- ther. They regarded me with an expression of hopeless sor- row and disappointment. I then explained to them, that any medicines which I possessed, would only aggiavate the disease and lender her more feeble than she now was ; tluit they must make warm teas and prevail upon her to drink them in large quantities every hour in the day, and with this treatment and good nursing, it was possible for her to lecover. With this ad- vice I left them, fully persuaded that the woman would n*^ live twenty-four hours. But I iiave since learned that my ad- vice was followed, and that the patient recovered and is now a healthy woman. TRAVELLERS OXEN AND WOLVES. 131 Proceeding on our journey, we crossed in the course of the afternoon two small creeks, near 'one of whioh we encamped about 5 o'clock, p. m., for the day. Two or three miles before we halted, we passed the camp of a party of four men return- ing to the United States from California. They were Messrs. Sublette, TapUn, Reddick, and . Messrs. Taplin and Reddick had been members of Captain Fremont's exploring party. They left California with a party with which they trav- elled as far as Fort Hall, and from thence have proceeded on by themselves, expecting, as I understood, to fall in at Fort Laramie with some party of traders bound to the frontier towns of Missouri. Mr. Reddick is a nephew of an old friend and neighbor of mine, Charles Carr, Esq., of Fayette county, Kentucky, and had been absent from his friends two years. A number of buffaloes were seen at a distance of a mile or two from the trail, just before we encamped, and a member of this party was in full chase of one of them. I watched the chase with interest and no small degree of excitement, until man, horse, and buffalo disappeared in one of the ravines of the plain. Ei-own, discovering that a buffalo had run into the willows bordering the stream upon which we encamped, started towards the place on his mule. Leaving his mule on the plain, he succeeded in approaching and kilHng the buffalo at a single shot. This, to us, important feat, being performed, (for we were much in want of fresh meat,) he remounted his mule and rode into camp swinging his cap and shouting with exultation. Two pack-mules were soon saddled, and a party went out t'c slaughter the fallen animal and bring in the meat. The animal was a cow, and although not fat, the flesh was tender and juicy, and we had a sumptuous supper. The lawn surrounded by willows, upon which we are encamp- ed, is ornamented with the lupin and its blue blossoms, and sev- eral other more brilliantly -colored flowers. We have passed to-day som.e eight or ten dead oxen which belonged to emigrant companies in advance of us. Oxen, when foot-sore or exhaustec. D}' fa jgue, are left by the emigrants, and immediately become the victims of tlie wolves, who give them no rest until the) 132 SOUTH PASS. fall. I have sometimes traced an ox pursued by wolves along the trail for ten or twenty miles, and noticed the places where he would turn and give battle to his remorseless pursuers. The result in every instance was, that I foimd the dead carcass or the skeleton of the ox, upon which the wolves and ravens had been feasting. Domesticated animals, unprotected, cannot resist the persevering attacks of the wolves, urged on as they are by their appetites, and conducting their warfare with all the skill of instinct, sharpened often by famine. The deer and antelope are compelled frequently to shelter themselves from the attacks of these animals, under the strong protection of the buffaloes, and you sometimes see herds of buffaloes and antelopes mingled and grazing together. Distance 25 miles. July 12. — Lea^-ing our encampment, in a few miles we crossed .another small stream, about four miles from which we again struck and crossed the main Sweetwater river, and left it finally, making om* way up a very gentle ascent to the South Pass of THE Rocky Mountains, or the di\'iding ridge separating the waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific. The ascent to the Pass is so gradual, that but for our geographical knowledge and the imposing landmarks on our right, (the snow-capped peaks of the Wind River Mountains raising their cold, spii-al, and barren smnmits to a great elevati9n,) we shoxild not have been con- scious that we had ascended to, and were standing upon the simimit of the Rocky Mountains — the backbone, to use a forcible figure, of the North American Continent. There is, I believe, considerable misconception in regard tc the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains. The general supposi- tion is, that it is a difficult and narrow passage by steep ascent and descent, between elevated mountain-peak-i. This conjectm-e is very far from the fact. The gap in the mountain is many miles in breadth, and as will have been seen from tlie daily de- scription of our marches, the asceii'< up the Platte and Sweet- watei- lias been so gradual, that although the elevation of the Pass tibove the sea is, according to some observations, between seven and eight, and others, nine and ten thousand feet, j-et from the ■urface we have travelled over, we have been scarcely o.onsciou* LAST VIEW OF THE ATLANTIC SLOPE. 133 of rising to the summit of a higli ridge of mountains. The temperature has given us the sti'ongest admonitions of our posi- tion. The Pass, where the emigrant trail crosses it, is in latitude about 42^° north and longitude 31^° west from "Washington City. The wagon trail, after we reach the summit, passes two or three miles over a level surface, between low sloping elevations composed of sand and clay, and covered with a vegetation now brown and dead, when it descends by a gentle declivity to a spring known to emigrants as the " Pacific Spring," the water from which flows into the Colorado River of the West, and is emptied into the Gulf of California. The upper waters of the Colorado of the West, are known to travellers and trappers in the mountains as Green River, The stream assiunes the name of Colorado, (or Red,) fai'ther down towards the Pacific. The distance from Fort Laramie, by the route which we travelled, to the " Pacific Spring," according to our estimate, is three hundred and eleven miles. It is stated at twenty miles less by some travellers. According to this estimate the distance from. Independence to the " Pacific Spring," two miles west of the South Pass, is nine hundred and eighty -three miles. The health of Col. Russell being very feeble, we encamped for the day as soon as we reached the spring on the west side of the Pass. The water of the spring is very cold, and the grass surrounding it has been much fed down by the emigrant parties which have preceded us. We found here a solitary emigrant wagon, and its proprietor, wife, and two or three chil- dren. From his own account, he had had a difference with the company in which he had been travelling, and this morning he had deteiTnined to separate from his former fellow-travellers, and unite himself to some of the rear companies when they came up. Just before sunset, accompanied by Jacob, I ascended one of the highest elevations near om- camp ; and we took a farewell look of the scenery towards the Atlantic. The sun went down in splendor behind the horizon of the plain, which stretches its Lmmeasm-able and sterile surface to the west as far as the eye can reach. The Wind River Mountains lift their tower-shaped 12 134 DESOLATE PROSPECT. and hoary pinnacles to the north. To the east we can see only the tops of some of the highest mountain elevations. The scene b one of subhme and solemn solitude and desolation. The resolution almost faints when contemplating the extent of the journey we have already accomphshed, and estimate the groimd which is yet to be travelled over before we reach our final destination on the shore of the Pacific. Ilhmitable almost as the prospect seems to the eye, the ^ision can penetrate to the distance of a few marches only on our toilsome journey through the barren and inhospitable wilderness. To the left of the " Pacific Spring," at a distance of eight or ten miles, there is a spiral elevation, resembhng a Gothic artificial structure. This I named " Jacob's Tower." Distance 20 miles. July 13. — Our route to-day has been over an arid undula- tmg plain, in a west-by-north coui'se. The plain, where any vegetation exhibits itself, is covered with wild sage, with a few occasional blades of dead bunch-grass between the sage-hillocks. Far in front, rising sohtary from the face of the plain, are elevated huttes, of singular configuration. The plain appears at some geological era to have been submerged, Avith the excep- tion of these huttes, which then were islands, overlooking the vast expanse of water. Some of these huttes, far to the north- west, present castellated shapes. Others resemble vast structures, surmounted by domes. As we approached " Little Sandy rivei'," an affluent of Green river, we came in view of a plain of white sand or clay, stretching to the southeast a vast distance. We crossed the deep channels of two streams, about midway of our day's march ; but the waters which flowed through them during the melting of the snows on the mountains, were ab- sorbed by the sands, and unseen. Their beds were dry as ashes. We encamped on Little Sandy about three o'clock p. m., among the small willows along its margin. The stream, at this season, has a sliullow, limpid current, ruiming over a bed ol yellowish sand and gravel, through a channel about fifteen or twenty feet in breadth. The grass among the willows is suflS- cient for our animals. The mosquitoes manifest an almost MEXICANS AND MOSQUITOES. luc invincible cov.rage and ferocity. We were obliged to picket our mules and light fires, made of the wild sage, around and among them, for their protection against the attacks of these insects. An antelope and sage-hen were killed during our march to-day. The hen was the mother of a large brood of chickens. The mother and protector of this family was killed by the rifle-ball ; but the children escaped by hiding in the sage. The mirage has deceived us several times during the day's march. When thirstng for water, we could see, sometimes to the right, sometimes to the left, and at others in front, represen- tations of lakes and streams of nmning water, bordered by waving timber, from which a quivering evaporation was ascend- ing and mingling with the atmosphere. But as we advanced, they would recede or fade away entirely, leaving nothing but a barren and arid desert. The lupin is blooming on our camp- ground. Distance 28 miles. July 14. — The mosquitoes, with an untiring perseverance, and a chivalry and courage equalling if not surpassing the valor of the hosts which met and fought our generals and armies in Mexico, distm-bed our repose and kept us awake nearly the whole night. Although frequently defeated by fire if not by sword, still they remained unconquered, and would listen to no propositions of peace. We determined, therefore, early this morn- ing, to adopt a " masterly activity," and the " line of march" policy, leaving them in fidl possession of the territory which they claimed, and which they are welcome from me to hold to the end of time. Our route this morning was across the plain some ten or twelve miles, when we struck the Big Sandy river, another affluent of the Green, or Colorado. The emigrant trail known as " Greenwood's Cut-off," leaves the old trail via Fort Bridget to Fort Hall at this point. It is said to shorten the distance on the Fort Hall route to Oregon and Cahfornia some fifty or sixty miles. The objection to the route is, that from Big Sandy tc Green river, a distance of forty-five or fifty miles, there is no water. We nooned on the Big Sandy, imder a high bluflF, down 136 SNAKE INDIAN HUNTING PARTY. which we descended to the water ; but there was no grass for our mules. A curious incident occurred here. Colonel Russell, who has been suffering from disease for several days, when we dismoimted to noon, was placed imder the shade of a clump of small willows on the bank of the stream. In his unquiet state, produced by a periodical fever, he threw his hands around him on the grass, whereon his blanket had been spread. In doing this he accidentally grasped something which had a metalhc feel, that upon examination proved to be a pair of silver-moimted spectacles. There were no signs of any encampment at this place duruig the present year. Who could have left or lost these spectacles, so singularly recovered ? During our afternoon's march we fell in with a party of some sixty or eighty Soshonee or Snake Indians, who were returning from a buffalo-hunt to the east of the South Pass. The chiefs and active hunters of the party were riding good horses. The others, among whom were some women, were mounted generally upon animals that appeared to have been nearly exhausted by fatigue. These, besides carrying their riders, were freighted with dried buffalo-meat, suspended in equal divisions of weight and bulk from straps across the back. Several pack-animals were loaded entirely with meat, and were driven along as we drive our pack-mules. They struck the wagon-trail a short distance only before we came in sight of them, and their advance party, consisting ot some six or eight, were the first we saw and the first who dis covered us. They appeared to manifest some uncertainty and irrcsokition when they saw us pursuing them ; but they finally halted in the trail and waited for us to come up. We held out our hands in token of friendship, and they did tlie same, giving a most cordial sliake, whicli ceremony with Indians is not usually expressive of a higli degree of warmth or gratification. It is one of the signs between the whites and tliemselves which they have learned from the former, and they make use of it without fully understanding its significance, as I believe. But these Snakes Boomed truly glad to see us, and really friendly. Whether these munifestations prepossessed me unduly in tlu;ir f,i\(> • 1 cannol SNAKE PRINCESS 131 say, but I was much pleased by tlieir civil deportment, and the kind and amiable expression of thei coimtenances. Oiu- conversation, of course, was carried on altogether in signs, except a few words and names of things which the Snakes them- selves had acquired from the English and American traders and trappers at the posts of the fur companies. The Sioux, in the Snake language, when translated into ours, are called "cut- throats," and the sign for their name is a motion with the hand across the throat. We conveyed to them all the information we had, in the best manner we could, in regard to the warlike movements of the Sioux. They appeared to comprehend us ; and I noticed that a party of four or five, mounted on good horses, started off in advance of the others at a great speed. The rear of the hunting party continued to overtake us as we moved slowly along, and several of them when they came up to shake hands, said, " Hew do ?" and asked for " tobac." I had a pound or two of tobacco in a small bag suspended from my saddle, which I distributed among them, and it appeared to give them great satisfaction. They made signs inquiiing if we had whiskey, by forming their hands into a cup -shape, putting them to their mouths, and throwing their heads back, as if in the act of drinking a long and refreshing draught. I shook my head, in token that we had none. Among the party I noticed a very beautiful young female^ uhe daughter of one of the chiefs of the party, who sat upon her horse with the ease and grace almost of a fairy. She was clothed in a buckskin-shirt, pantaloons, and moccasins, with some really tasteful ornaments suspended around her neck and delicate waist It will be a lono- time before I forget the cheer- fu] and attractive countenance, graceful figure, and \'ivacity of feature and language of this untutored child of nature. The Soshonees or Snakes occupy the country immediately west of the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains ; and their principal places of trading are Fort Hall, a post of the Hudson's Bay Company, and Fort Bridger, the estabhshment of an indi- vidual trader. There are other white traders among them, ?fhc, having intermarried with the Indians, change their posi- 12* 188 GREEN RIVER tions acfording to circumstances. They art; one of the mos powerfiil tribes of Indians west of the Rocky Mountains, and have hitherto on all occasions manifested a most friendly dispo- sition towards the emigrants passing through their territory. Many of the men we saw were finely formed for strength and agility, with countenances expressive of courage and humanity. They evinced fine horsemanship, and a skilful use of the bow and an'ow, their principal weapon in hunting and war. I do not know that the United States government has made treaties with the Snakes. The Indians rode along with us to our place of encampment for the day. We encamped oft the bank of the Big Sandy, in a handsome bottom formed by a bend of the river. The general aspect of the country through which we have passed to-day is much the same as yesterday. The table-land of tlie plain produces little vegetation except the wild-sage, and this is stimted and seems to be dying from drought or the poverty of the soU. On the narrow bottoms of the river there is grass ; and immediately on its banks there are clumps or thickets of small willows, from half an inch to an inch in diameter, and from five to ten feet in height. The lupin is in bloom around our camp. Distancf 30 miles. CHAPTER X. Green River — Terrific storm — Desoiato scenery — Black's Fork — Rainbc ■' bluflTs — Remarkable butle — Arrival at. Fort Bridger — Messi's. Hasting* and Hiulspctli — Traders and trappors from Taos — Capt. Walker — Cali- fornian liorsos — Snow sliowtirs on tho niouutains — Resume our march by the new route via the Great Salt Lake — Cold vvoathor — Ice in July- Bear River — Difficult passage through the mountains — Elephant statue Jui>v 1/5. — About eight miles from our last encampment we struck and forded Green river, the head of the Colorado or Red River of the West, which empties into the Gulf of California. ORBEN RIVER TREMENDOUS STORM 139 The river at the ford is between fifty and one hundred yards in breadth, and the water in the channel is about two and a half feet in depth. The bed of the channel is composed of small round stones. The stream runs with a clear rapid cm*- rent. Cotton- wood and small willows border its banks as far as we travelled upon it. These, with some green islands, afford an agreeable and picturesque contrast to the brown scenery of liill and plain on either side. Continuing down the river we halted at noon to rest our animals under the shade of some large cotton-wood trees. There was but little grass around us. A dark cloud, across which there were incessant flashfis of lightning, rose in the west soon after we halted. At half-past two o'clock, p. m., resuming ovir march w** travelled about two miles farther down the stream, and left it near a point where I saw the ruins of several log-cabins, which I have since learned were erected some years ago by traders and trappers, and have subsequently been deserted. The trail liere makes a right angle and ascends over the bluffs bordering the valley of the stream, in nearly a west course. We had scarcely mounted the bluffs when we were saluted by a storm of rain, lightning, thunder, and wind, which raged with terrific fury and violence over the broken and dreary plain, for several hours. It is scarcely possible to conceive a scene of more forbidding dreariness and desolation than was presented to our view on all sides. Precipitous and impending cliff's of rock and concrete sand and clay, deep rapines and chasms plowed out by the torrents of water or by the fierce tornadoes which rage with unre- strained force and fury over this desert, with a few straggling and stunted sage-shrubs struggling for an existence in the sandy and gravelly soil, were the prominent objects that saluted our vision. Far to the left of us, the Utah moimtains lift their summits covered with perpetual snows, presenting to the eye a wintry scene in the middle of July. Wliile travelling onward at a slow pace, being some hundred yards in advance of the main part}", (the storm having in some degree subsided,) with skins thoroughly Viret and in no very 140 RAINBOW BLUFFS. cheerful mood, one of the party behind s ,ruck up in a sonoroxu voice the serio-comic elegy of " Lord Lovell and Lady Nancy.'' Shouts of merry hiughter succeeded the rehearsal of each stanza, and the whole party, from being in a most gloomy and savage state of mmd, were restored to the best possible humor. The strong contrast between the sublime which they had seen and felt, and the ridiculous which they heard, operated upon them something like a shock of galvanism on a dead body. Just before simset, we reached the summit of the ridge be- tween Green river and Black's Fork, a tributary of the former. From this, at a distance of six or eight miles, we could see the last-named stream, and the smoke rising from the fires of an emigrant encampment. We reached Black's Fork of Green river, and encamped upon it some time after dark. There was no wood except some small green willows which resisted ignition ; and weary and wet, we soon made our beds and fell asleep. Distance 35 miles. July 16. — Black's Fork is a stream varying in width from fifty to one hundred feet. Its waters are limpid and cold. The trail crosses this stream several times during the day's march, leaving it as often to cut ofl" the bends, and returning to it again. The scenery along our route to-day has been inter- esting, although the soil of the country for the most part is frightfulh sterile. The bluffs, assuming the forms and elevation of huttes, which border the valley of the stream through which we are travel- ling, are composed of soft sandstone and a concrete combina- tion of siind and clay. Their perpendicular walls are colored with nearly all the hues of the rainbow, in stratified lines. Red; green, blue, yellow, and purple are distinctly represented These bluffs are worn by the action of water and wind into almost every conceivable shape. A very remarkable isolated elevation or c/utte, rises abruptlv from the flat surface of the j;lain, about cigliteen miles from our last encampment. Its sjiape is irregularly oval. It is about two or three miles in cir- cumference, and its extreme hi-iglit is probably five hundred feet alxne the level of the plain. In general shape and orna" NATURAL TEMPLE. 141 meat it present': the appearance of a magnificent structiire erected by human labor, but crumbling into ruins. Surround- ing it there are a multitude of columns of unknown architectural orders, (orders of natui'e,) and grotesque figures in statuary, and carraigs in alto and hasso relievo. Some of these would be substitutes for the sphynxes of Egyptian architecture ; others for caryatides, etc., etc. But it is useless to multiply similitudes, for there is scarcely a prominent animal figui'e in natui-e, or a distorted and unnatural shape conceived by man for architectu- ral ornament, that has not some feature represented here, scxUp- tured and carved upon the soft rock by the winds and the rains. A well-defined cornice suiTounds the western and southern sides of this temple of nature, and its roof is sur- mounted by three immense domes, in comparison with which those of the Capitol, St. Peter's, and St. Sophia are toys. A few miles beyond this, there is a labyrinth of columns formed in the bluffs by the action of water and wind, through whict when you enter it, the voice and sound of footsteps are echoed and re-echoed a long distance. The mirage displayed here its illusory invitations with great distinctness. The presentations of this phenomenon were not, however, different from those previously noticed. Just before simset, we once more struck the stream on which we were trav- elling, and had a \aew of the landmarks which, we supposed, were near Fort Bndger. The trail at this point diverged again from the stream, and we travelled over a barren plain, Avith no vegetation upon it except the wild sage. We were overtaken by darkness some miles before reaching our destination for the day. The trail was lost by my mule, upon the natural instinct of which I relied more than upon myself, in the dark. We pro- ceeded onward, and finally saw the faint light of camp-fires, apparently very near, but really at a long distance. Striking in a direct line for them, we met many obstacles and obstructions, some of which were imaginary, others real. We were at last successful in crossing, in the dark, a ravine, bordered on each Bide by timber, and entering upon the bottom of grass wlierc the lights appeared that we had so intently watched. l48 FORT BRIDGER. Proceeding on» "ws readied the encampment of Mr. Hastinga about eleven o'clock at night. A shower of rain, which fell during the afternoon, had wet us to our skins, and shivering with the dampness and cool temperature, we let our mules loose, and gathered around a miserable fire, the fuel of which was composed of small, green willows. Distance 40 mUes. July 17. — We determined to encamp here two or three days, for the purpose of recruiting our animals, which, being heavily packed, manifest strong signs of fatigue. We pitched our tent, for the first time since we left Fort Laramie, near the camp of Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth. These gentlemen left the set- jlements of Cahfomia the last of April, and travelling over the snows of the Sierra, and swimming the swollen water-courses on either side, reached this ncinity some two weeks since, hav- nig explored a new route, via the south end of the great Salt Lake, by which they suppose the distance to Cahfomia is short- ened from one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles. My impressions are unfavorable to the route, especially for wagons and families ; but a number of the emigrant parties now en- camped here have determined to adopt it, with Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth as their guides ; and are now waiting for some of the rear parties to come up and join them. " Fort Bridger," as it is called, is a small trading-post, estab- lished and now occupied by Messrs. Bridger and Vasquez. The buildings are two or three miserable log-cabins, rudely constructed, and bearing but a faint resemblance to habitable houses. Its position is in a handsome and fertile bottom of the small stream on which we are encamped, about two mUes south of tlie point Avhere the old wagon trail, via Fort Hall, makes an angle, and takes a northwesterly course. The bottom produces tlie finest qualities of grass, and in great abundance. The water of the stream is cold and pure, and abounds in spotted moun- tain trout, and a variety of other small fish. Clumps of cotton- wood trees are scattered through the valley, and along the hanks of the stream. Fort Bridger is distant from the Pacific Rpring, by our estimate, 1,?3 miles. About five hundred Snake Indians wen; encamped nep.r the CAPT. WALKER— CALIFORNIAN H0R8B8. 143 trading-post this morning, but on hearing the news respecting the movements of the Sioux, which we communicated to them, most of them left immediately, for the purpose, I suppose, of organizing elsewhere a war-party to resist the threatened inva- sion. There are a number of traders here from the neighbor- hood of Taos, and the head-waters of the Arkansas, who have brought with them dressed buckskins, buckskin shirts, pantaloons, and moccasins, to trade with tlie emigrants. The emigrant trade is a very important one to the niountain merchants and trappers. The countenances and bearing of these men, who have made the wilderness their home, are generally expi-essive of a cool, cautious, but determined intrepidity. In a trade, they have no consciences, taking all the "advantages;" but in a matter of hospitality or generosity they are open-handed — ready, many of them, to divide with the needy what they possess. I was introduced to-day to Captain Walker, of Jackson county, Missouri, who is much celebrated for his explorations and knowledge of the North American continent, between the frontier settlements of the United States and the Pacific. Cap- tain W. is now on his return from the settlements of California, having been out with Captain Fremont in the capacity of guide or pilot. He is driving some four or five hundred Cali- fornian horses, which he intends to dispose of in the United States. They appear to be high-spirited animals, of medium size, handsome figures, and in good condition. It is possible that the trade in horses, and even cattle, between California and the United States may, at no distant day, become of considera- ble importance. Captain W. communicated to me some facts in reference to recent occurrences in California, of considerable interest. He spoke discouragingly of the new route \'ia the south end of the Salt Lake. Several emigrant parties have anived here during the day, and others have left, taking the old route, ^aa Fort Hall. Another cloud, rising from behind the mountains to the south, discharged sufficient rain to moisten the ground, about three o'clock, r. M. After the rain had ceased fallinir, the clouds broke away, some of them sinking below and others rsing i44 HIGH PRICE OF WHISKEY. above the summits of the mountains, which were glittering in the rays of the sun with snowy whiteness. While raining in the valley, it had heen snowing on the mountains. During the shower the thermometer fell, m fifteen minutes, from 82° to 44°. July 18. — ^We determined, this morning, to take the ne\< route, via the south end of the great Salt Lake. Mr. Hud- speth — who with a small party, on Monday, will start in advance of the emigrant companies which intend travelling by this route, for the purpose of making some further explorations — has volunteered to guide us as far as the Salt Plam, a day's journey west of the Lake, Although such was my own deter- mination, I wrote several letters to my friends among the emi- grant parties in the rear, advising them not to take this route, but to keep on the old trail, via Fort Hall. Our situation was different from theirs. We were mounted on mules, had no families, and could afford to hazard experiments, and make ex- plorations. They could not. During the day I \isited several of the emigrant corrals. Many of the trappers and himters now collected here were lounging about, making small trades for sugar, coffee, flour, and whiskey. I heard of an instance of a pint of miserable whiskey being sold for a pair of buckskin pantaloons, valued at ten dollars. I saw two dollars in money paid for half a pint. Several Indians visited our camp, in parties of three or four at a time. An old man and two boys sat down near the door of our tent, tliis morning, and there remained without speaking, but watchful of every movement, for three or four hours. When dinner was over, we gave them some bread and meat, and they departed without uttering a word, Messrs. Curry and Holdc left us to-day, having determined to go to Oregon instead of California. Circles of white-tented wagons may now be seen in every direction, and the smoke from the camp-fires is curl- ing upwards, morning, noon, and evening. An immense num- ber of oxen and liorses are scattered over the entire valley, grazing upon the green grass. Parties of Indians, hunters, and emigrants are galloping to and fro, and the scene is one of JOURNEY RESUMED. 145 «lmost holiday liveliness. It is difficult to realize that we are in. a wilderness, a thousand miles from ci\'ilization. I noticed the lupin, and a brilliant scarlet flower, in bloom, July 19. — Bill Smith, a noted mountain character, in a shoot- mg-match burst his gun, and he was supposed for some time u be dead. He recovered, however, and the first words he uttered upon returning to consciousness were, that " no d — d gun could kill him." The adventures, hazards, and escapes of this man. with his eccentricities of character, as they were related to me, would make an amusing volume. I ancrled in the stream, and caught an abundance of mountain trout and other small fish. Another shower of rain fell this afternoon, diu'ing which the temperature was that of a raw November day. July 20. — We resumed our march, taking, in accordance with our previous determination, the new route already referred to. Our party consisted of nine persons. Mr. Hudspeth and three young men from the emigrant parties, will accompany us as far as the Salt Plain. We ascended from the valley in which Fort Bridger is situa- ted, on the left of a high and rather remarkable butte which overlooks the fertile bottom from the west. There is no trail, and we are guided in our course and route by the direc- tion in which the Salt Lake is known to lie. The face of the upland country, after lea\ing Fort Bridger, although broken, presents a more cheerful aspect than the scenery we have been passing through for several days. The wild sage continues to be the principal growth, but we have marched over two or three smooth plains covered with good grass. The sides of the hills and mountains have also in many places presented a bright green herbage, and clumps of the aspen poplar frequently orna- ment the hollows near the bases of the hills. We crossed a large and fresh Indian trail, made probably by the Snakes. Many of their lodge-poles were scattered along it, and occasionally a skin, showing that they were travelhng in great haste. As usual for several days past, a cloud rose in the southwest about three I'clock, p. m., and discharged sufficient rain to wet us. The ttmcsphere during the shower had a 18 146 COLD WEATHER— SPRING FLOWERS wintry feel. On the high mountains in sight of us to the left, we could see, after the clouds broke away, that it had been snowing. We reached a small creek or branch called " Little Muddy" by the hunters, where we encamped between four and five o'clock Our camp is in a handsome little valley a mile or more in length and half a mile in breadth, richly carpeted with green grass of an excellent quality. An occasional cotton-wood tree, clumps of small wUlows, and a variety of other shrubbery along the margin of the stream, assist in composing an agreeable landscape. The stream is very small, and in places its channel is dry. The wild geranium, with bright pink and purpUsh flowers, and a shrub covered with brilliant yellow blossoms, enliven the scenery around. The temperature is that of March or AprD and winter clothing is necessary to comfort. Many of the small early spring flowers are now in bloom, among which I noticed the strawberry. Large numbers of antelopes were seen. Distance 15 miles. July 21. — Our bufl'alo-robes and the grass of the valley were white with frost. Ice of the thickness of window-glass, congealed in our buckets, Notwithstanding this coldness of the temperature, we experience no inconvenience from it, and the morning air is delightfully pleasant and in^^gorating. Ascend- ing the hills on the western side of ovir camp, and passing over a narrow ridge, we entered another grassy valley, which we fol- lowed up in a southwest course, between ranges of low sloping hills, three or four miles. Lea^^ng the valley near its upper end, or whe'-e the ranges of hills close together, we ascended a gradual slope to the summit of an elevated ridge, the descent on the western side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and is covered with gnarled and stunted cedars, twisted by the winds into many fantastic shapes. Descending with some difilculty this steep mountain-side, we found oiu-selves in a naiTOw hollow, enclosed on either side by high elevations, the bottom of which is covered with rank grass, and gay with the bloom of the wild geranium ^nd a shrub richly ornamented with a bright yellow blossom. The hills or mountains enclosing this hollow, are com- poeed of red and yellow argillaceous earth. In the ■^vines thert WINDINGS A^D TWISTINGS — BEAR 7 IVER. 147 are a few aspen poplars of small size, and higher up some dwarfish cedars bowed by winds and snows. Following up this hollow a short distance, we came to an im- passable barrio- of red sandstone, rising in perpendicular and impending masses, and rimning entirely across it. Ascending with great difficulty the steep and high elevation on our right hand, we passed over an elevated plain of gradual ascent, covered with wild sage, of so rank and dense a growth that we foimd it difficult to force our way through it. This ridge over- looks another deeper and broader valley, which we entered and followed in a southwest course two or three miles, when the ranges of hills close nearly together, and the gorge makes a short curve or angle, taking a general northwest direction. We continued down the gorge until we reached Bear river, between 9ne and two o'clock, p. m. Bear river, where we struck and forded it, is about fifty yards in breadth, with a rapid current of limpid water foaming over a bed so unequal and rocky, that it was difficult, if not dangerous to the limbs of our mules, when fording it. The margin of the stream is thinly timbered with cotton-wood and small willows. The fertile bottom, as we proceeded down it, varying in width from a mile and a half to one-eighth of a mile, is well covered with grasses of an excellent quality ; and I noticed, in addition to the wild geranium, and several other flowers in bloom, the wild flax, sometimes covering a half acre or more vrith its modest blue blossom. Travelling down the stream on the western side, in a course nearly north, six miles, we encamped on its margin about 3 o'clock, p. m. The country through which we have passed to-day, has, on the whole, presented a more fertilized aspect than any we have seen for several hundred miles. Many of the hill-sides, and some of the table-land on the high plains, produce grass and other green vegetables. Groves of small aspen poplars, clumps of hawthorn, and willows surrounding the springs, are a great relief to the eye, when surA^eying the general brownness and sterility of the landscape. I observed strawberry-vines among the grass in the hollows, and ;n the bottom of Bear river ; but 148 COLD WEATHER IN 1HE MOUNTAINS there was no fruit upon them. We have passed the skeletons of several buffaloes. These anunals abounded in this region some thirty years ago ; but there are now none west of the Rocky Mountains. Brown shot three antelopes near oiu* camp this afternoon. A young one, which was fat and tender, was slaughtered and brought to camp ; the others were so lean as not to be con- sidered eatable. The sage-hens, or the grouse of the sage-plains, with their broods of young chickens, have been frequently flushed, and several shot. The yoimg chickens are very deli- cate ; the old fowl is usually, at this season, lean and tough. McClary has been quite sick with a fever which has pre- vailed among the emigrants, and frequently terminated fatally. This afternoon he was scarcely able to sit upon his mule, from weakness and giddiness. Distance 25 miles. July 22. — Cold, with a strong wind from the snowy mountains to the southwest, rendering the atmosphere raw and uncom- fortable. We rose shivering from our bivouacs, and our mules picketed around were shaking with the cold. McClary was so much relieved from his sickness, that he considered himself able to traA'el, and we resumed our march at seven o'clock. Crossing the river bottom on the western side, we left it, ascend- ing and descending over some low sloping hills, and entering another narrow, grassy valley, through which nms a small stream in a general course from the southwest. We travelled up this gradually ascending valley about twelve miles, to a point were the stream /orArs. Near this place there are several springs of very cold water. Following up the right-hand foi-k some miles farther, in a northwest course, we left it by chmb- ing the ronge of hills on the right hand, passing along an elevated ridge, from which we descended into a deep mountain gorge, about one o'clock, p. m. • The mountains on either side of the canada or gorge are pre- cipitous, and tower upwards several thousand feet above the level upon wliich we are travelling. At 3 o'clock we crossed a small s(,n!am flowing into the Canada from the nortlieast. Con- tinuing down, the space betweei the ranges of mountains be- FLORA — elephant's STATUE. 149 comes narrower, and choked up with bnish, prostrate trees, and immense masses of rock (conglomerate) which have fallen from the summits of the mountains, affording us no room to pass. We were compelled to leave the bottom of the gorge, and with great caution, to find a path along the precipitous side of the mountains, so steep in many places that our mules were in constant danger of sliding over the precipices, and be- ing thus destroyed. The snows have recently disappeared. Their fertilizing irri- gation has produced a verdant carpet of grass in the bottoms of the small hollows, bespangled with a variety of blooming plants and shrubs. The geranium, wild flax in bloom, and a purple phlox, have been the most conspicuous. In some places the blight of recent frosts is visible. I noticed several fir-trees in one place, while descending through the gorge, from 20 to 100 feet in height. Some of them were standing upon inacces- sible projections from the mountain-side. The mountains on either side of us, during our march this afternoon, have raised their rocky and barren summits to a great height, presenting in places perpendicular walls and impending projections of red sandstone and conglomerate rock. Immense masses of many thousand tons' weight have fallen from the sides, and rolled from the summits into the trough of the gorge, where they lie im- bedded deep in the earth, or shattered by the concussion of the fall. In other places, the soft red sandstone has been worn by the action of the atmosphere into many remarkable and som' times fantastic shapes. Some of these are spiral and columnar , others present the grotesque forms of nondescnpt animals and birds. A very conspicuous object of this kind, of colossa^ mag- nitude, exhibited the profile of a rhinoceros or elephant. We na.med it the " Elep^jant's Statue." The dislocated skeletons of buffaloes which perished here many years ago, have been frequently seen. Large flocks of antelope have been in sight during the day's march. We have seen as many as five hundred. A red fox, and an animal of a brown color, which I never saw described, approached within a short distance this afternoon. 18* 30 ICE — ogden's hole. Just before sunset we reached a small opening between Lbe mountain ranges, covered with a dense growth of willows, wild CMiTants, and wild rose-bushes. The mountain-sides pre- sented clumps of hawthorn, and a feis diminutive and scatter- ing cedars. Here we encamped in the small openings among the willows and other shrubbery, where we found grass and water sufficient for our animals. Distance 35 miles. CHAPTER XI. More extreme cold weather — Ogden's Hole — Utah Indians — ^\Veber River — Canons — Indian visiters — Disgusting practice — Great fires in the moun- tains — First view of the great Salt Lake — Salmon-trout — Great Sail Lake — A sunset on the lake — Broke my thermometer — Indian chase — Warm sulphur springs — More Indian visiters — Indian fruit-cake — Grass- hopper jam — Mode of taking grasshoppers by the Indians. July 23. — Ice froze in our buckets and basins one-fourth of an inch in thickness. On the surface of the small shallow brook which runs througli the valley, the congelation was of the thick- ness of window-glass. At home, in the low and humid regions of the Mississippi valley, at this stage of the thermometer we should suffer from sleeping in the open air. But here the at- mosphere is so elastic, dry, and bracing, that we experience no inconvenience. Continuing our march down the narrow defile in a south- west course, generally along the side of the mountain, (the bottom being choked up with willows, vines, briers, and rose- bu.shes,) we crossed the channels at their mouths, of two small streams emj)tying into the branch upon which we are travel- ling. These streams flow through narrow mountain defiles which, as far as we could discern, were timbered with cedars and poplars. One of these gorges presents a most savage and gloomy aspect. It is so narrow and deep that the rays of the sun never penetrate to its bottom. Mr. Hudspeth thinks this b what is called by the hunters, "Ogden's Hole." It derives CANONS WEBER RIVER 151 Chis name from the circumstance that a trapper by tlie name of Ogden concealed himself here from a body of pursuing and hostile Indians, and perhaps perished. I am not sufficiently acquainted with the facts to relate them with accuracy. The romantic interest of the story is doubtless much enhanced by a view of the wild and forbidding spot where its incidents and catastrophe occurred. The ranges of mountains, as we proceeded down the gorge, became more and more elevated, but less precipitous. I no- ticed, at a height of six or eight hundred feet above the level of the stream, numberless small white fossil shells, from half an inch to an inch in diameter. In places bare of vegetation, the ground was wliite with these crustaceous re- mains. About eleven o'clock, we passed through a grove of small poplars, at the upper end of a triangular valley. The stream down which we have been travelling, here runs through a perpendicular canon of great elevation, and empties into the main Weber river, which flows into the Great Salt Lake, running in a nearly west course. Ascertaming by examination that we could not pass this canon, without following a considerable dis- tance the rocky channel of the stream, we crossed some low hills, or a gap in the mountains at the northeast corner of the valley. While marching over these hills, we Avere overtaken by five or six Indians mounted on horses. The Indians rode up and saluted us with much apparent friendship and cordi- ality. They were a small party encamped in the valley that we had just left, whose animals and lodges we had seen at a distance in the brush sku-ting the stream,. After riding two miles, we entered a fertile valley several miles in length and breadth, covered with luxuriant grass, through wWch flows Weber river ; but tracing the chamiel down to where it enters the moxmtains, we found a canon more difficult to pass than the one we had just left. Observing at a diftance a party of Indians, whose encampment was some two miles up the valley, coming towards us, we determined to halt for an hoxir or two, and ga ler from them such ii/ormation as we could in refer eD"*- ' he route to the Salt Lake. 152 tTAH INDIANS MERRY FELLOW. The first Indians that came up were two men and a small boy. One of the men called hunself a Utah, the other a Soshonee or Snake. The Utah appeared to be overjoyed to see us. He was not satisfied with shaking hands, but he miist embrace us, which, although not an agreeable ceremony, was submitted to by several of our party. This ceremony being over, he laughed merrily, and danced about as if in an ecstasy of dehght in consequence of our appearance. He examined with great curiosity all of our baggage ; tried on, over his naked shoulders, several of our blankets, in which costume he seemed to regard liimself with great satisfaction. He was, for an Indian, very comical in his deportment and very merry. The number of Indians about our camp soon accumulated to fifteen or twenty, all of whom were Utahs, except the one Snake men- tioned, Avho had married a Utah squaw. A hasty dinner was prepared, and we distributed very sparingly among them (for our stock of provisions is becoming low) something from each dish, with which display of hospitality they appeared to be gratified. Most of these Indians Avere armed with bows and arrows. There were among them a miserable rifle and musket, which they had evidently procur.ed from Mexican trappers or traders, as, when I inquired of the owner of one of them its name, he pronounced the word carabina. Those who had these guns were desirous that we should wait until they could ride some distance and bring dressed deer or elkskins, which they wished to trade for powder and balls. They were all miserably clothed, some wearing a filthy, ragged blanket, others a shirt and gaiters made of skins, and others simply a breech-cloth of skins. Tlieir countenances, however, were sprightly and intel- ligent, and several of them were powerfully formed. The result of our inquiries in reference to the route was not satisfactory. The merry old fellow we first met, advised us by signs to go southwest a distance until we struck water, and then go northwest. Another advised us to retuin to the small valley, and from thence to pass through the mountains parallel with Weber river. We determined on the latter route, it ap- pearing to be the shortest. COUNTERMARCH. 163 Saddling xip, -ne retraced our tniil into tl e small valley, where we were overtaken by the Indians, desirous of trading skins for powder and balls. Several trades were made, generally at the rate of twelve charges of powder, and as many ounce-bullets, for a large elk or deer skin well dressed. We ascended from the valley through a winding and difficult ravine, to the summit of the range of mountains on the west, from which we could see nothing but moimtain after mountain, one rising behind another, in the course we designed taking. A halt was called, and Mr. Hudspeth and myself, leaving our party, entered a ravine and followed it down steep declivities, (our mules frequently sliding ten or fifteen feet over bare and precipitous rocks,) with a view of ascertaining the practicability of passing along the bank of the river. Forcing our way, after our descent, through the thick brush and brambles, and over dead and fallen timber, we finally reached the stream and crossed it. The result of our observations was that the route was impracticable, without the aid of axes to clear away the brush and dead and fallen timber, unless we took the rocky bed of the river for a road, wading water generally three feet deep, and in places, probably of swim- ming depth to our animals. We returned after considerable difficulty to our party, and countermarching, encamped just as the sun was setting, in the small valley so often referred to. There are two Indian lodges near our camp. We visited them, and made exchanges of small articles with the women for parched and pulverized sunflower and grass seeds. Its taste was much like that of parched corn, and agreeable. All the men, women, and children, some eight or ten in number, \isited us during the preparation and discussion of our supper, watch- ing with much cmiosity and interest the culinary operations and other movements. They were good-natured and sociable, so far as there can be sociability between persons making known their thoughts by vague signs. Our supper to-night, with the excep- tion of bread and coff( e, consisted of a stew made of antelope flesh, which, as it happened, was very highly seasoned with peppor. I distributed several plates of this stew among thy Indians. They tasted of it, and immediately made most lud- 154 DAN6ERCUS PASSAGE. crous grimaces, blowing out and drawing in their breath, as if they had been bui-nt. They handed back the plates without eating their contents. To satisfy them that we were playing no tricks upon them, which they seemed to suspect, I ate from the same dishes; but they coulJ not be prevailed upon to eat the stew. Coffee, bread, and a small lump of sugar to each was distributed among them, with which they seemed much pleased. The sugar dehghted them beyond measure, and they eAidently had never seen or tasted of it before. During the idsit of these Indians, I noticed the females hunting for the veimin in the heads and on the bodies of their children ; finding which, they ite the animals with an apparent rehsh. I had often heard of this disgusting practice, but tliis is the first instance of it I have Been. They retired to their lodges about nine o'clock, and so much confidence did we feel in their friendship, that no watch wa.s set for the night. Distance from our last camp, seven miles. Jvdy 24. — Crossing for the third time the low gap at the southeastern corner of the small valley, we entered the large, level, and fertile bottom, on the edge of which we had halted yesterday. Fording the river, we took a south course over this bottom, which is about three miles in breadth, covered with tall grass, the bloom upon which shows that, when ripe, it must be heavily seeded and nutritious. From the valley we ascended gradually five or six miles to the summit of a ridge of hills, from which, descending about the same distance in a southwest course, we struck another branch of Weber's river, flowing in a north- west course. FoUowinsr the stream about a mile, much to our disappointment we found another impassable canon. This canon resembles a gate, about six or eight feet in width, the arch and superstructure of which have fallen in immense masses, render- ing a passage by the channel of the stream impossible. The mountains on either side raise their perpendicular walls of red »andstone to a great elevation, Looking up the side of the mountain on our right, we saw a small Indian trail winding under and over the projecting and impending chfl's. This evidence that the Indians had passed Qm way, satisfied us that we could do the same ; although to BEAUTIFUL LiNDSCAPE. 155 the eye, when standing in the valley and lookmg upwards, it seemed impossible. We commenced the ascent, mules and men following each other along the narrow and dangerous patli in single file. After much labor we reached the summit of the ascent. This first difl&culty being over, we travelled about two miles along the side of the mountain, in a path so narrow that a sUght jostle would have cast us over a precipice to the bottom of a gulf a thousand feet in depth. Continuing down the stream five miles, our progress being obstructed by many difficulties, we at length, much to our gratification, reached an opening between the mountains, displaying an extensive valley covered with grass, and the meanderings of the stream upon which we were travelling by the line of dark green shrubbery and herbage upon its banks. We reached the jimction of this stream with Weber river between four and five o'clock, and encamped for the day. A number of Utah Indians accompanied us several miles this morning. Among them was the pleasant and comical old fellow, who amused us so much yesterday. They all appeared to be much gratified by our visit, and were very pressing in their invitations to us to stop and trade with them. Near the last canon there was a solitary lodge, from which the inhabi- tants, with the exception of an old man and woman, fled as soon as they saw us, driving before them their horses. The old man and woman, being unable to run, hid themselves under the bank qi the stream. I noticed in one of the ravines to-day, the scrub-oak, or what is commonly called black-jack, also a few small maple-trees. Tlie trunks of none of these are more than two inches in diameter. Distance 24 miles. July 25. — We determined to remain encamped to-day, to rest and recniit our mules, the grass and water being good. The valley in which our camp is situated is about fifteen miles in length, and varies from one to three miles in breadth. The mountains on both sides rise in benches one above another, to an elevation of several thousand feet above the level of the val- ley. The summits of this range, on the west, exhibit snow. It is scarcely pcssible to imagine a landscape blending more v»- 156 MOUNTAINS ON FIRE. riety, beauty, and sublimity, than is here presented. The quiet, secluded valley, with its luxuriant grass waving hi the breeze ; the gentle streamlet winding through it, skirted with clumps of willows and the wUd rose in bloom ; the -wild currant, laden with ripe fruit ; the aspen poplar, with its silveiy, tremulous fohage ; the low, slopmg hills, rising at first by gentle ascents, and becoming gradually more and more elevated and rugged, until their barren and snowy summits seem almost to cleave the sky, compose a combination of scenery not often witnessed. I noticed this morning, about ten o'clock, a column of smoke rising from the mountains to the west. The fire which pro- duced it continued to mcrease with an almost frightful rapidity, and the wind, blowing from that quarter, has driven the smoke into the valley, darkenmg the sun, and imparting to every thing around a lurid and dismal colorhig. Jacob, Buchanan, and Brown started early this morning, with the intention of ascending one of the snowy mountain peaks. They returned about foiu- o'clock, p. m., overcome with the fatigue of then walk, and without having accomphshed their design, being prevented by distance, and the tangled brush in the hollows and ravines. Mr. Hudspeth rode down the valley to explore Weber's river to the Salt Lake. He returned in the afternoon, having passed through the next canon. I noticed several magpies, and other small birds, in the valley during the day. July 26. — The fires in the mountains were burning with great fury all night, threatening, although probably at a distance of twenty miles, to reacli us before we decamped. Burnt leaves and aslics, driven by the winds, wliirled through the atmosphere, and fell around us in the valley. Mr. Hudspeth and two of the men with hira left us here, to explore the canon above, and as- certain tlie practicability of wagons passing through it. Resu- ming our march, we proceeded down the valley about ten miles, passing through, at its lower end, a grove of poplars, in which a fire had been burning, and some of the fallen trees were yet blazing. Entering between the walls of the momitams forming he caAon, after laborious exertions for several hours, we passed /1R8T VIEW OF SALT LAKB. 157 through it without any serious accident. The canon is four or five miles through, and we were compelled, as heretofore, to climb along the side of the precipitous mountains, frequently passing under, and sometimes scaling, immense overhanging masses and projections of rock. To be thus safely enlarged from this natural prison-house, locked at every point, was an agreeable, if not an important event in the history of our journey. At four o'clock, p. m., we encamped on the bank of the We- ber river, just below the canon. The stream, at this point, is about thirty feet in breadth, with a hmpid and rapid current, and a rocky channel. The grass along its margin is dry and dead, but well seeded, and consequently nutritious to our ani- mals. A few small poplars, generally from two to three inches in diameter at the trimk, skirt the stream. I ascended the range of hUls bordering the valley of the river to the south, from which I had a most extensive and in- teresting view of the Great Salt Lake. My position was about ten miles distant from the lake, but my elevation was such that I could discern its surface from the north to the south, a dis- tance which I estimated at sixty or eighty miles. The shore next to me, as far as I could see it, was white. Numerous mountainous islands, dark and apparently barren, sometimes in ranges of fifteen or twenty miles, sometimes in solitary peaks, rise to a considerable elevation above its sm-face ; but the waters suiTOunding these insulations could be traced between them as far as the eye could reach. The evening was calm, and not a ripple distm-bed tlie tranquil bosom of the lake. As the sun was sinking beliind the far distant elevations to the west, the glassy surface of this vast inland ocean was illuminated by its red rays, and for a few minutes it appeared like a sea of molten fire. The plain or valley of the lake, to the right, is some eight or ten miles in width, and fertile. The Weber river winds through it, emptying into the lake some ten mUes to the north of oiu' camp. A few trees fringe its margm. I could smell a strong and offensive fetor wafted from the shore of the lake. Retumir^g to camp. Miller, who had employed his leisure in angling, exhibited a piscatoiy spectacle worthy the admiration 14 158 PISCATORY DELICACY. of the most epicurean iclithyophagist. He had taken with hia hook about a dozen salmon-trout, from eight to eighteen inches in length ; and the longest weighing four or five poimds. A delicacy such as this, and so abundant, we determined to enjoy, and from the results of Miller's sport we feasted this evening upon a viand which epicm'es would give much to obtain ; but ihey nor my " Tonglythian" friends, Higgins and Frazer, would scarcely undergo the fatigues and piivations to which we had been subjected for its acquisition. Distance 16 miles. July 27. — By an arrangement with Mr. Hudspeth, we re- mained encamped, awaiting his retuin from his exploring trip .hrough the upper canon of Weber river. Fishing apparatus ;7as in great demand this morning ; and most of the party, as soon as breakfast was over, were enjoying the Waltonian sport, in anghng for the delicious salmon-trout with which the stream abounds. Our bait is the large insect resembling the cricket, heretofore described, myriads of which are creeping and hop- ping among the grass, and other vegetation of the valley. Every angler was more or less successful, according to his luck or skill. A quantity of fish, weighing each from two to five pounds, was taken, — more than sufficient for our wants, although our appetites at this time are not easily satisfied. The fires noticed day before yesterday, and yesterday, have continued to burn ; and this afternoon they seemed to have found fresh fuel. The wind changing to the southeast, and blowing a gale, just before simset, dense clouds of smoke and ashes were driven down upon us. July 28. — Some of the party went into the hills to gather service-berries. (I do not know that this orthography is correct. It is in accordance with the orthoepy.) The service-berry is produced by a shrub, generally from four to six feet m height. It is of a dark color, larger than the whortleberry, and not very unlike it in flavor. This fruit is abundant here. July 29. — Mr. Hudspeth and two young men came into camp early (his morning, having bivouacked List night a short distance from us, on the opposite side of tho river. They had forced their way through the upper caflon, and proceeded six miles GREAT SALT LAKE. 159 further up Weber river, where they met a train of abcut forty emigrant wagons under the guidance of Mr. Hastings, which left Fort Bridger the same day that we did. The difficulties to be encountered by these emigrants by the new route will com- mence at that point ; and they will, I fear, be serious. Mr. Hudspeth thinks that the passage through the canon is practi- cable, by making a road in the bed of the stream at short dis- tances, and cutting out the timber and brush in other places. Resuming om* march, we took a south course over the low hills bordering the valley in which we have been encamped ; thence along the base of a range of elevated moimtains which slope down to the marshy plain of the lake. This plain varies in width from fifteen to two miles, becoming narrower as we approach what is called the " Utah Outlet," the channel through which the Utah Lake empties its waters into the Salt Lake. The Great Salt Lake has never been accm-ately sm-veyed. It is situated between 40 and 42 degrees of north latitude, and between 35 and 36 degrees of longitude west from Washington. Its length is variously stated by the himters and trappers who have travelled along its shores, at from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and eighty miles. But in this estimate, the numer- ous large bays and other irregularities are included. Its extreme length m a straight line is probably one hundred miles, and its extreme breadth between forty and sixty miles. At this season the shore, as we pass along it, is white with a crust of the mmi- ate and carbonate of soda combined. The muriate of soda predominates, but the alkali combined with it is sufficient to render the salt bitter and imfit for use in its natural state. When the wind blows from the lake, the stench arising from the stagnant water next to the shore is highly offensive to tlie smell. The surface of the lake does not present that rippling and sparkling appearance when the sudden breeze passes over it, so frequently seen on fresh- water lakes, and on the ocean. The waters undoubtedly are thoroughly saturated with saline mat- ter, and hence, from their weight, when they move at all, it is with a lazy and sluggish undulatory motion. It is statMl that 160 EXCESSIVE HEAT — INTERESTING VIEWS. no fish exist in the lake. I have already mentioned that ther are numerous moimtainous islands in the lake. There are alsc several large bays indenting its shores. The plain or valley along which we have travelled to-day is in some places argilla- ceous, in others sandy and gravelly. Where there is a soil, it is ' covered with a growth of luxuriant vegetation, — grass, a species of cane, rushes, and a variety of small shrubs and flower- ing plants. A few scrub-oaksands tunted cedars can be seen on the mountain- sides, and along the ravines. There are many small streams of pure cold water flowing from the mountains. The heat' of the sun during our march this afternoon was excessive. My bridle reins were frequently so hot that it was painful to hold them in my hands. The road has been difficult, and our progress slow. We encamped about three o'clock for the day, on a small spring branch. The sunset scene this even- ing was splendid. The sm-face of the lake appeared like a sheet of fire, ■s^arying in tint from crimson to a pale scaz'let. This flame-hke ocean was bordered as far as we could see to the north and south of us, with a field of salt, presenting all the appearances of freshly fjxUen snow. When I took out the thermometer this evening, much to my regret I discovered that the bulb was broken. I himg the frame and glass tube on a wUlow for the observation of the Indians. It will be some time before they will venture to touch it. They stand in great awe of the mysterious instruments which science has invented, and never handle them except with due caution. Distance 18 miles. July 30. — At simrise, clear and calm, with an agreeable tem- perature. The morning scene was beautifully grand. Our camp being in the shadow of the mountains, the face of the sun was invisiljle to us, long after his golden rays had tipped, one after anotlier, the summits of the far-distant islands in the lake. By degrees the vast expanse of waters became illumin' ated, reflecting the bright beams of the god of day with dazzlinf; efruljronce. Our route to-day continued south, near the base of the range of mountains on our left. We frequently crossed deep ravine* STRAGGLING UTAH. — WARM SPRINGS. 161 and piles of granite debris, with which the slope of the moun- tains in places is covered. TraveUing about ten milefe we reached the soutliern extremity of one of the bays of the Salt Lake. Be- yond this there is a basin of water some three or four miles in cir- cumference, surrounded by a smooth sandy beach. An immense number of ducks were walking and flying over this beach and playing in the basin. Approaching the shore of the pond, a soUtary Indian rose from the weeds or grass near the water,, and discovering us, he started immediately and ran with considerable speed tOAvards a point of the mountains on our left. Several of us pursued and overtook him. He appeared much alarmed at first, but after shaking hands with us, and discovering that we had no hostile intentions, he soon forgot his fright. He carried in his hand a miserably lean duck, which he had just killed with an arrow. A quiver slimg across his bare and tawny shoulders, was well supphed with this weapon. He was naked, with the exception of a small covering around his loins, and his skin was as dark as a dark mulatto. Learning from him that he was a Utah, we endeavored to make him comprehend that we wished to trade with his tribe for elk-meat. He shook his head, t-.nd appearing desirous of lea\ing us, we dismissed him. He was soon out of sight, hurrying away with long and rapid strides. Proceeding about two miles and turning the point of the mountain, we came to seven warm springs, so strongly impreg- nated with sulphur as to have left a deposite of this mineral in some places several feet in depth. These springs gush out near the foot of a high precipice, composed of conglomerate rock and a bluish sandstone. The precipice seems to have been uplifted by some subterraneous convulsion. The tempera- ture of the water in the basins was about 90°. The water of most of them was bitter and nauseous. From these springs we crossed a level plain, on which we encamped at 11 o'clock, a. m., near a small stream of cold wa- ter flowing from the mountains, which is skirted with a few poplars and small willows. The grass immediately around our camp is fresh and green, but a short distance from us it ii brown, dry, and crisp. 14* 162 INDIAN DELICACIE After dinner we were visited by three Indians, one of whom yas the man with the duck we saw this morning. The eldes"'. of the three signified that he wished a friendly smoke and a " talk." A pipe was produced and filled with tobacco. Light- ing it, I drew two or three puffs and handed it to the old man, and it passed from him to his comrades until the tobacco was consumed. They appeared to enjoy the fumes of the smoke highly. We informed them of our wish to trade for meat. They signified that they had none. Three females of middle age, miserably clad and ugly, soon made their appearance, bring- ing baskets containing a substance, which, upon examination, we ascertained to be service-berries, crushed to a jam and mixed with pulverized grasshoppers. This composition being dried in the sun until it becomes hard, is what may be called the " fruit- cake" of these poor children of the desert. No doubt these women regarded it as one of the most acceptable offerings they could make to us. We purchased all they broiight with them, paying them in darning-needles and other small articles, with which they were much pleased. The prejudice against the grasshopper " fruit-cake" was stronp' at first, but it soon wore off, and none of the delicacy was thrown away or lost. Two of our party mounted their mules and rode to the In- dian encampment to ascertain if there were not more Indians, and some from whom meat could be obtained. As soon as the men and women in our camp saw them riding in the direction of their lodges, they hastened away with great speed and in much alarm. Returning from the Indian encampment, Jacob and Brookey reported that tliere were no more Indians, and that no meat could be obtained. They saw a large quantity of grasshoppers, or crickets, (tlie insect I have before described,) which were being prepared for pulverization. The Indians of this region, in order to capture this insect with greater facility, dig a pit in the ground. They then make what liunt'Ms, foi- brevity of expression, call a surround ; — that is, they form a circle at a distance around this pit, and drive the grasshoppers or crickets into it, when they are easily se- emed and taken. After being killed, they are baked before UTAH OUTLET LAKE. 163 the fire or dried in the sun, and then pulverized between smooth ptones. Prejudice aside, I have tasted what are called delicacies, less agreeable to the palate. Although the Utahs are a pow- erful and warlike tribe, these Indians appeared to be wretch- edly destitute. A fire was raging on the mountain-side all night, and spread down into the valley, consuming the brown vegetation. The water of the small stream was made bitter with the ashes. Our camp-ground, we conjecture, is the same that was occu- pied by Captain Fremont last year. Distance 15 miles. CHAPTER XII. Utah Outlet and Lake — Enter the desert — Utah language — Col. Russell's nine-shooter — Digger Indians — Utter sterility. July 31. — Morning clear, with a deUghtfuI temperature, and a light breeze blowing from the west. Our route to-day runs in a west course across the valley of the " Utah Outlet," about ten miles south from the bay or arm of the Salt Lake upon which we have been travelling. The waters of the Utah Lake are emptied into the Salt Lake through this channel. The Utah Lake is a body of fresh water between sixty and eighty miles in circumference, situated about twenty miles south of the Salt Lake. The shape of the extensive plain of this lake was made apparent to us by the mountains surrounduig it. The plain of the lake is said to be fertile, but of the extent of its fertility I have no certain knowledge. The eastern side of the valley of the " Outlet" is well watered by small streams rmming from the mountains, and the grass and other herbage on the upland are abundant, but there is no timber visible from o\u- position.* Descending from the upland slope on which we encamped yesterday, we crossed a marsh about two mUes in width, covered * In 1847 the Mormons made a settlehient between the Utah and the Salt Lake. 164 UTAH OUTLET. with grass so dense and matted that our animals could scarcely make theh way through it. This grass is generally from five to eight feet in height. A species of rush called tule is pi'oduced on the marsh. It grows to the height of eight and ten feet. The ground is very soft and tremulous, and is covered for the most part with water to the depth of two or three inches. But our mules were prevented from sinking into it by the forest of herbage which they prostrated under their feet as they ad- vanced. From the marsh we ascended a few feet upon hard, dry ground, producing a coarse grass with an ear resembling our small grains, wheat or barley, and some few flowers, with bunches of wild sage. The colors of the flowers were generally yellow and scarlet. We reached the Utah Outlet after travelling four mUes, and forded it without difficulty. The channel is about twenty yards in breadth, and the water in the deepest places about three feet. The bed of the channel is composed of compact bluish clay. The plain or valley, from the western bank of the " Outlet" to the base of the range of hills to the west, is level and smooth, and in places white with a saline deposite or efflorescence. There is but little vegetation upon it, and this is chiefly the wild sage, indicative of aridity, and poverty of soil. From this plain we struck the shore of another bay of the Salt Lake, bordered by a range of mountains running parallel with it. The shore, next to the white crust of salt, is covered with a debris pre- cipitated from the rocky summits of the mountains. Our route for several hours described nearly a semicircle, when there was a break in the range of mountains, and we entered upon another plain. About three o'clock, p. m., we passed several remarkable rocks rising in tower-Uke shapes from the plain, to the height of sixty or eighty feet. Beyond these we crossed two small streams bitter witli saline and alka- line impregnation. The plain presents a sterile appearance, but little vegetation appearing upon it, and that stunted and withered. At seven o'clock, i*. m., we reached a spring branch descending from a mountain ravine, and fringed with small wil- lows, the water of which is comparatively fresh and cooi. UTAH DIALECT. 165 Here we encamped after a march -^^.itliout halting, of twelve hours. There is a variety of vegetation along the stream — grass, weeds, some few flowers, briers, and rose-bushes. Soon after we encamped, tliree Utali Indians visited us. They were mounted on horses, rather lean, and sore-backed from hard usage. The men appeared to be of a better class and more intelligent than those we had before met with. They were young and manifested much sprightlmess, and an inquisi- tive curiosity, which they took no pains to conceal. We invited them to sup with us, and they partook of our simple viands with a high relish. A renewal of our overtures to trade for meat met with no better success than before. They had no meat to dispose of. They were dressed m buckskm sliirts, gaiters, and moccasins ; and armed with bows and arrows. Two of these men, the most intelligent, concluded to encamp with us for the night. The principal of these, a young man of about twenty-five, with an amiable but sprightly expression of countenance, was so earnest and eager in his inquiries respect- ing every thing appertaining to us, and into our language, that I sat conversing with him until a late hour of the night. Fron: him I learned the names of many things in the Utah dialect I give some of these below. The orthography is jn strict ac oordance with the sound. ENGLISH. UTAH. Tobacco Pah. Fire Coutouch. Grass Shawnip. Hair Pamp. Sun Tarp. Powder-horn Naup. Spur Tannegan. Mule Moodah. Bullet NavaL Knife Weitch. Horse Punk. Finger Mushevan Foot Mamp. Bear's Claw Musheta. Saddle Middesah. ENGLISH. UTAH. Water Poh. Eye Pooh. Ear Nank. Nose Tamoucher Hand Moh. Flint Tuck. Wood Schnip. Blanket Tochewanu^ Pipe Toh. Teeth Tamp. Bear Padewap. Rifle Wokeat Powder ~ JJoketouch . Pantaloons Waunaoovei 166 INDIAN PRIZE. These are some of tlie words of the Utah language whicli I wrote down, from his pronunciation, by the light of our camp- fire. Fumishmg him and his companion some skins, we re- quested them to retire for the night, which they seemed to do with reluctance. Distance 40 miles. August 1. — Morning clear, with a delightfully soft breeze from the south. I pm'chased, this morning, of one of the Utahs, a dressed grisly bear-skin, for which I gave him twenty charges of powder and twenty bullets. Several other small trades were made with them by om* party. Ha\Tng determined to cross a range of mountains, instead of following to avoid it, the shore of another cove or bay of the Salt Lake, — by doing which we should lose in distance twenty-five or thu-ty miles, — we laid our com"se nearly west, towards the lowest gap we could discover in the range. After we had proceeded two or three miles up the sloping plain, towards the base of the mountains. Colonel Russell recol- lected that he had left his rifle at the camp — a "nine-shooter." Accompanied by Miller, he returned back to recover it. I was very well satisfied that the Indians Avould have discovered it, and, considering it a valuable prize, would not wait for the return of the loser. According to their code of morals, it is not dishonest to take what is left in camp, and they never fail to do it. I halted for an hour, and long after oui- party had disap- peared in a gorge of the mountains, for the return of Colonel Russell and Miller. I could see, from my elevated position, the dust raised by the horses of the retreating Indians on the plain, at a distance of six or eight miles from the camp. Becoming impatient, I commenced a countermarch, and while moving on, 1 saw, at a distance of a mile and a half, a solitary horseman, urging his animal with great speed towards me. There being but one instead of two, I felt considerable anxiety, not knowing but some disaster inight huve occurred. I moved faster towards iL'i hoisemun, and, at the distance of a quarter of a mile, dis- coveied tiiat it was Colonel Russell. Riding towards him, 1 inquired what bad become of Miller? lie did not know. He had lotit him in hunting tlu-ough the willows and ravines. My PRIZE RETURNED. 167 anxiety was mucli increased at this report, and I started to return to the camp, when Miller, proceeding at a slow gait, appeared on one of the distant elevations. The result of the search for the " nine-shooting " rifle was fruitless. The Indians had carried it away with them. The only consolation I could offer to Colonel Russell for his loss was, that a more useless burden was never carried on the shoulders of man or mule. It was a weight upon the beast, and an incumbrance to the rider, and of no practical utility on this journey. This consolation, however, was not very soothing. [I will state here, that this rifle was recovered by Mr. Hud- speth, brought into California, and returned to Colonel Russell. The Indian who took it from our camp, after he had returned to the village of his tribe, was much elated by his prize. But in discharging it, the ball, instead of making its passage through the barrel, took another direction, and wounded him in the leg. An instrument so mysterious and eccentric it was considered dangerous to retain, and the chief ordered its restoration to the emigrant parties followuig us. It was recognised by Mr. Hud- speth, and returned to its owner, as above stated.] Following the trail of our party, we entered the narrow mountain-gorge, or valley, where I saw them disappear. Pro- ceeding up this valley, we passed several temporary wigwams, erected by the Indians along the side of the small stream which [lows through it fi"om the summit of the mountain. These wig- wams were all deserted ; but fires were burning in front of them, ilogs were barking, and willow-baskets, some of which contained sorvice-berries, were standing about. A few poplar and pine trees, service-bushes, willows, and a variety of smaU shrubbery, with an occasional sunflower, ornament this narrow and roman- tic gorge. As we ascended, the sides of the mountain pre- sented ledges of variegated marble, and a debris of the same was strewn in our path. We overtook our party when they were about halfway up the steep ascent to the crest of the range. Mules and men were strung out a mile, toiling and climbing up the almost insurmountable acclivity. The inhabitants of the wigwams, who had Eed and concealed 168 DIGGER INDIANS themselves until we had passed, now commenced whooping far below us, and we could see several of them following our traiL After much difficulty in urging om- animals forward, and great fatigue to ourselves and them, we reached the simimit of the ridge. Here we halted to take breath. Several of the Indians, whose whoops we had heard, came up to us. They were naked, and the most emaciated and wretched human ob jects I had ever seen. We shook hands, however, and greeted them kindly. The descent on the western side of the mountain, although steej), is not difficult, there being but few obstructions. Four miles from the summit brought us to a gentle slope, and to a faint stream which flows from the hills and sinks in the sands just below. Here we encamped for the day. Near us, on the slope, there is a grove of small cedars, the deep ver- dure of which is some relief to the brown and dead aspect of vegetable nature sm-roimding us. Distance 15 miles. August 2. — Morning clear, with a soft breeze from the south. We were visited early by three miserable Digger Indians, calUng themselves Soshonees. They weie naked, with the exception of a few filthy, ragged skins, fastened around their loins. They brought with them a mixture composed of parched simflower seed and grasshoppers, which they wished to exchange with us for some articles we possessed. We decHned trading with them. One of them signified, that he knew where there was water over the next ridge of mountains. Water at the western base of the next range would diminish the long march without this necessary element, over the great Salt Plain, some ten or twelve miles. For a compensation in shirts and pantaloons, he con- sented to accompany and guide us to the water; but when we started, he declined his engagement. Descending into the plain or valley before us, we took a north- >v(!St course across it, striking Capt. Fremont's trail of last year after we had commenced the ascent of the slope on the wesiem side. The bi-cadtli of this valley at this point, from the base of one range of mountains to the other, is about twenty miles. Large portion sof it are covered with a saline efflorescence of a Auovty whiteness. The only vegetation is the wild sage ; and MARCH ACROSS THE SALT DESERT. 169 this is parched and shrivelled by the extreme drought. Not e. soUtary flower or green plant has exliibited itself. In our march we crossed and passed several deep ravines and chasms, plowed by the waters from the moxm tains during the melting of the snows, or hollowed out by the action of the winds. Not a living object, animal, reptile, or msect, has been seen during our day's march. We encamped at two o'clock, p. m. There are a few dwarf cedars in our vicinity, and scattered bunches of dead grass. In a ravine near us the sand is moist ; and by making an excavation, we obtained a scant supply of water, impregnated with salt and sulphur. A dense smoky vapor fills the valley and conceals the simimits of the distant mountains. The sun shining through this, dispenses a lurid light, coloring the brown and bai-ren desert with a more dismal and gloomy hue. As soon as our afternoon meal had been prepared and discussed, we commenced preparations for the march over the Salt Desert to-morrow, which employment occupied us until a late hour of the night. Distance 20 miles. CHAPTER XIII. March over the great Salt Desert — Preparations — Singular illusion — Volcanic debris — Distant view of the great Salt Plain — Utter desolation — The mi- rage — Gigantic phantoms — Fata Morgana — Spectral army — Tempest ou the Salt Plain — Clouds of salt — Instinct of mules — Mule-race — Excessive thirst — Arrival at oasis, and spring — Buchanan's well August 3. — I rose from my bivouac this morning at half-past one o'clock. The moon appearing like a ball of fire, and shining with a dim and baleful liffht, seemed strusfo-linor downwards through the thick bank of smoky vapor that overhung and cur- tained the high ridge of mountains to the west of us. This ridge, stretching far to the north and the south as the eye can reach, forms the western wall (if I may so call it) of the desert 15 170 SOLITUDE AND SILENCE. valley we had crossed yesterday, and is composed of rugged, barren peaks of dark basaltic rock, sometimes exhibiting mis- shapen outlines ; at others, towering upwards, and displaying a variety of architectural forms, representing domes, spu*es, and tuiTeted fortifications. Our encampment was on the slope of the mountain ; and the valley lay spread out at om* feet, illuminated sufficiently by the red glare of the moon, and the more pallid eifulgence of the stars, to display imperfectly its broken and frightful barrenness, and its solemn desolation. No life, except in the little oasis occupied by our camp, and dampened by the sluggish spring, by excavating which with our hands we had obtained impure water sufficient to quench our own and our animals' thirst, ex- isted as far as the eye could penetrate over moimtain and plain. There was no voice of animal, no hum of insect, distm-bing the tomb-hke solemnity. All was silence and death. The atmo- sphere, chill and frosty, seemed to sympathize with this sepul- chral stillness. No wailing or whispering soiuids sighed through the chasms of the mountains, or over the gulfy and waterless ravines of the valley. No rustling zephyr swept over the scant dead grass, or disturbed the crumbling leaves of the gnarled and stunted cedars, which seemed to draw a precarious existence from the small patch of damp earth suiTomiding us. Like the other elements sustainins: animal and veo-etable life, the winds seemed stagnant and paralyzed by the universal dearth around. I contemplated this scene of dismal and oppressive solitude until the moon sunk behind the mountain, and object after object became shrouded in its shadow. Rousing Mr. Jacob, who slept soundly, and after him the other members of our small party, (nine in number,) we com- menced our preparations for the long and much-dreaded march over the great Salt Desert. Mr. Hudspeth, the gentleman who had kindly conducted us thus far from Foit Bridger as our pilot, was to leave us at this point, for the j)urpose of exploring A route for the eraiirrant way-ons farther south. He was accom- panied by three gentlemen, Messrs. Ferguson, Kirk wood, and Milter. Consequently, from this tune forward we are without PREPARATIONS. I7i a guide, or any reliable index to our destination, except out course westward, until we strike Mary's river and the emigrant iraU to California, which runs parallel with it, some two hundred miles distant. The march across the Salt Plain, without water or grass, was variously estimated by those with whom I con- \ ersed at Fort Bridger, at from sixty to eighty miles. Captain Walker, an old and experienced mountaineer, who had crossed it at this point as the guide of Captain Fremont and his party, estimated the distance at seventy-five miles, and we found the estimate to be nearly correct. We gathered the dead Umbs of the cedars which had been cut down by Captain Fremont's party when encamped here last autumn, and igniting them, they gave us a good light during the preparation and discussion of our frugal breakfast , which consisted to-day of bread and coffee, bacon being interdicted in consequence of its incitement to thirst — a sensation which at this time we desired to avoid, as we felt uncertain how long it might be before we should be able to gratify the unpleasant cravings it produces. Each individual of the party busied himself around the bla- zing fires in making his various Uttle but important arrangements, until the first gray of the dawn manifested itself above the va- pory bank overhanging the eastern ridge of mountains, when the word to saddle up being given, the mules were brought to the camp-fires, and every arm and muscle of the party was actively employed in the business of saddling and packing " with care !" — with unusual care, as a short detention during the day's march to readjust the packs might result in an en- campment upon the desert for the coming night, and all i's consequent dangers, the death or loss by straying in search f water and grass of our mules, (next to death to us,) not taking into the account our own suffering from thirst, which for the Qext eighteen or twenty hours we had made up om* minds to endure with philosophical fortitude and resignation. A small powder-keg, holding about three or four pints of coffee, which had teen emptied of its original contents for the purpose, and filled with that beverage made from the brackish spring ivjii* 172 SMOKY atmosph£:rb. our camp, was the only vessel we possessed in which we could transport water, and its contents composed our entire liquid refreshment for the march. Instructions were given to Miller, who had charge of this important and precious burden, to husband it with miserly care, and to make an equitable division whenever it should be called into use. Every thing being ready, Mr. Hudspeth, who accompanied as to the summit of the mountain, led the way. We passed upwards through the Canada [pronounced kanyeada] or moon- lain-gorge, at the mouth of which we had encamped, and by a comparatively easy and smooth ascent reached the summit of the mountain after travelhng aibout six miles. Most of us were shiveiing with cold, imtil the sun shone broadly upon us after emerging, by a steep acchvity, from the gorge through which we had passed to the top of the ridge. Here we should have had a \iew of the mountain at the foot of which our day's jour- ney was to terminate, but for the dense smoke which hung over and filled the plain, shutting from the vision all distant objects. Bidding farewell to Mr. Hudspeth and the gentleman with him, (Mr. Ferguson,) w^e commenced the descent of the moun- tain. We had scarcely parted from Mr. H. when, standing on one of the peaks, he stretched out his long arms, and with a voice and gesture as loud and impressive as he could make them, he called to us and exclaimed — " Now, boys, put spurs to yoiu- mules and lide like h — !" The hint was timely given and well meant, but scarcely necessary, as we all had a pretty just appreciation of the trials and hardships before us. The descent from the mountain on the western side was more difficult than the ascent ; but two or three miles, by a winding and precipitous path through some straggling, stunted, and tempest-bowed cedars, brought us to the foot and into the val- ley, where, aftei- some search, we found a blind trail which we supposed to be that of Captain Fremont, made last year. Our course for the day was nearly due Avest ; and following this trail where it was visible, and did not deviate from our course, and putting (;ur mules into a brisk gait, we crossed a valley some eight or ten miles in width, sparsely covered with wild sage SALINE DESEAT SINGULAR DECEPTION. 173 (artemisia) and grease-wood. These shrubs display themselves and maintain a dying existence, a brownish verdure, on the most arid and sterile plains and mountains of the desert, where no other vegetation shows itself. After crossing the valley, we rose a ridge of low volcanic hills, thickly strewn with sharp fragments of basaltes and a \'itreous gravel resembling jmik-bottle glass. We passed over this ridge through a narrow gap, the walls of which are perpendicular, and composed of the same dark sco- rious material as the debris strewn around. From the western terminus of this ominous-looking passage we had a view of the vast desert-plain before us, which, as far as the eye could pen- etrate, was of a snowy whiteness, and resembled a scene of wintry frosts and icy desolation. Not a shrub or object of any kind rose above the surface for the eye to rest upon. The *aiatus in tlie animal and vegetable kingdoms was perfect. It NV'as a scene which excited mingled emotions of admiration and apprehension. Passing a little fui-ther on, we stood on the brow of a steep precipice, the descent from the ridge of hills, immediately below and beyond which a narrow valley or depression in the sur- face of the plain, about five miles m width, displayed so per- fectly the wavy and frothy appearance of highly agitated water, that Colonel Russell and myself, who were riding together some distance in advance, both simultaneously exclaimed — " We must have taken a wrong co'orse, and stnick another arm or bay of the Great Salt Lake." With deep concern, we were looking around, surveying the 'face of the country to ascertain what ■-emedy there might be for this formidable obstruction to our progress, when the remainder of our party came up. The dif- ficulty was presented to them ; but soon, upon a more calm and scrutinizing inspection, we discovered that what represented so perfectly the " rushing waters " was moveless, and made no sound ! The illusion soon became manifest to all of us, and a Uearty laugh at those who were the first to be deceived was the consequence ; denying to them the merit of being good pilots vr pioneers, etc. Descending the precipitous elevation upon which we stood, 1§* 174 DRIFTING ASHES MIRAGE. we entered upon the liard smooth plain we had just been S'or- veying with so much doubt and interest, composed of bluish clay, incrusted, in wavy lines, with a white saline substance, the first representing the body of the Avater, and the last the crests and froth of the mimic waves and surges. Beyond this we crossed what appeared to have been the beds of several small lakes, the waters of which have evaporated, thickly incrusted with salt, and separated from each other by small mound- shaped elevations of a white, sandy, or ashy earth, so imponder- ous that it has been driven by the action of the winds into these heaps, which are constantly changing their positions and their shapes. Our mules waded through these ashy imdvdations, sometimes sinking to their knees, at others to their bellies, cre- ating a dust that rose above and hung over us like a dense fog. From this point on our right and left, diagonally in our front, at an apparent distance of thirty or forty miles, high isolated mountains rise abruptly from the surface of the plain. Those on our left were as white as the snow-like face of the desert, and may be of the same composition, but I am inclined to the behef that they are composed of white clay, or clay and sand intermingled. The mirage, a beautiful phenomenon I have frequently men- tioned as exhibiting itself upon our journey, here displayed its wonderful illusions, in a perfection and with a magnificence sur- passing any presentation of the kind I had previously seen. Lakes, dotted with islands and bordered by groves of gently waving timber, whose tranquil and hmjJid waves reflected their sloping banks and the shady islets in their bosoms, lay spread out before us, inviting us, by tlieir illusory temptations, to stray from our path and enjoy their coohng shades and refreshing waters. These fading away as we advanced, beautiful villas, adorn(;d with edifices, decorated with all the ornaments of sub- urban arcliitecture, and surrounded by gardens, shaded walks, parks, and stately avenues, would succeed tliem, renewing the alluring invitation to repose, by enticing fhe vision with more than Calypsan enjoyments or Elysian pleaa..res. Tliese melting from our view us tliose before, in another place a vast city, with THE HOARY DESERT 175 countless columned edifices of marble whiteness, and studded with domes, spires, and txirreted towers, would rise upon the horizon of the plain, astonishing us with its stupendous grandeur and subhme magnificence. But it is in vain to attempt a de- scription of these singular and extraordmary phenomena. Neither prose or poetry, nor the pencil of the artist, can ade- quately portray their beauties. The whole distant view around, at this point, seemed like the creations of a sublime and gor- geous dream, or the effect of enchantment. I observed that where these appearances were presented in their most varied forms, and with the most vivid distinctness, the surface of the plain was broken, either by chasms hollowed out from the action of the winds, or by undulations formed of the drifting sands. About eleven o'clock we struck a vast white plain, uniformly level, and utterly destitute of vegetation or any sign that shrub or plant had ever existed above its snow-like surface. Pausing a few moments to rest our mules, and moisten our mouths and throats from the scant supply of beverage in our powder-keg, we entered upon this appalling field of sullen and hoary desola- tion. It was a scene so entirely new to us, so frightfully forbid- ding and unearthly in its aspects, that all of us, I beheve, though impressed with its sublimity, felt a slight sliudder of apprehension. Our mules seemed to sympathize with us in the pervading sentiment, and moved forward with reluctance, sev- eral of them stubbornly setting their faces for a countermarch. For fifteen mUes the surface of this plain is so compact, that the feet of our animals, 'as we hurried them along over it, left but little if any impression for the guidance of the future trav- eller. It is covered with a hard crust of saline and alkaline substances combined, from one-fourth to one-half of an inch in thickness, beneath which is a stratum of damp whitish sand and clay intermingled. Small fragments of white shelly rock, of an inch and a half in thickness, which appear as if they once com- posed a cnist, but had been broken by the action of the atmo- sphere or the pressure of water rising from beneath, are strewn OTer the entire plain and imbedded in the salt and sand. As we moved onward, a member of our party in the real 176 GIGANTIC PHANTOMS. called our attention to a gigantic moving object on our left, at an apparent distance of six or eight mQes. It is very difficult to determine distances accurately on these plains. Your esti- mate is based upon the probable dimensions of the object, and unless you know what the object is, and its probable size, you are liable to great deception. The atmosphere seems frequent- ly to act as a magnifier ; so much so, that I have often seen a raven perched upon a low shrub or an undulation of the plain, answering to the outhnes of a man on horseback. But this object was so enormously large, considering its apparent dis tance, and its movement forward, parallel with ours, so distinct, that it greatly excited our wonder and c\iriosity. Many and various were the conjectm-es (serious and facetious) of the party, as to what it might be, or portend. Some thought it might be Mr. Hudspeth, who had concluded to follow us ; otliers that it was some Cyclopean nondescript animal, lost upon the desert ; others that it was the ghost of a mammoth or Megatherium wandering on " this rendezvous of death ;" others that it was the d — 1 mount- ed on an Ibis, &c. It was the general conclusion, however, that no animal composed of flesh and blood, or even a healthy ghost, could here inhabit. A partner of equal size soon joined it, and for an hour or more they moved along as before, parallel to us when they disappeared, apparently behind the horizon. As we proceeded, the plain gradually became softer, and our mules sometimes sunk to then- knees in the stiff composition of salt, sand, and clay. The travelling at length became so diffi- cult and fatiguing to our animals that several of the party dis- mounted, (myself among the number,) and we consequently slackened our hitherto brisk pace into a walk. About two o'clock, I'. M., we discovered through the smoky vapor the dim outlines of the mountains in front of us, at the foot of which was to terminate our day's marcli, if we were so fortunate as to reach it. But still we were a long and weary distance from it, and from tlie " grass and water" which we expected there to find. A cloud rose from tlie south soon afterwards, accom- panied by several distant peals of thunder, and a furious wind, rushing across the plain and filling the whole atmosphere SPECTRAL ARMY FATA MORGANA. IT"? aroTind us with the fine particles of salt, and drifting it in heaps like the newly fallen snow. Our eyes became nearly blinded and our throats choked with the saline matter, and the very air we breathed tasted of salt. During the subsidence of this tempest, there appeared upon the plain one of the most extraordinary phenomena, I dare to assert, ever witnessed. As I have before stated, I had dis- mounted from my mule, and turning it in with the caballada, was walking several rods in front of the party, in order to lead in a direct course to the point of our destination. Diagonally in front, to the right, our course being west, there appeared the figures of a number of men and horses, some fifteen or twenty. Some of these figures were mounted and others dis- mounted, and appeared to be marching on foot. Their faces and the heads of the horses were turned towards us, and at first they appeared as if they were rushmg down upon us. Their apparent distance, judging from the horizon, was from three to five mUes. But their size was not correspondent, for they seemed nearly as large as our own bodies, and consequently were of gigantic stature. At the first view I supposed them to be a small party of Indians (probably the Utahs) marchmg from the opposite side of the plain. But this seemed to me scarcely probable, as no hunting or war party would be likely to take this route. I called to some of om- party nearest to me to hasten forward, as there were men in front, coming towards us. Very soon the fifteen or twenty figures were multiphed into three or four hundred, and appeared to be marching forward with the greatest action and speed. I then conjectured that they might be Capt. Fremont and his party with others, from California, returning to the United States by this route, although they seemed to be too numerous even for this. I spoke to Biown,^, who was nearest to me, and asked him if he noticed the figures of men and horses in front ? He answered that he did, and that he had observed the same appearances several times previously, but that they had disappeared, and he believed them to be op tical illusions similar to the mirage. It was then, for the fii'st time, so perfect was the deception, that I conjectured the prob- 178 SPECTRAL -ARM": — FATA MORGA^A. able fact that these figures were the reflection of our owr images by the atmosphere, filled as it was with fine particles of crystallized matter, or by the distant horizon, covered by the same substance. This induced a more minute observation of the phenomenon, in order to detect the deception, if such it were. I noticed a single figure, apparently in front in advance of all the others, and was struck with its likeness to myself. Its motions, too, I thought, were the same as mine. To test the hypothesis above suggested, I wheeled suddenly around, at the same time stretching my arms out to their full length, and tm'ning my face side"\vise to notice the movements of this figure. It went through precisely the same motions. I then marched deliberately and with long strides several paces ; the figure did the same. To test it more thoroughly, I repeated the experi- ment, and with the same result. The fact then was cleaf . But it was more fully verified still, for the whole array of this nu- merous shadowy host in the course of an hour melted entirely away, and was no more seen. The phenomenon, however, explained and gave the history of the gigantic spectres which appeared and disappeared so mysteriously at an earlier hour of the day. The figures were our own shadows, produced and reproduced by the mirror-like composition impregnating the atmosphere and covering the plain. I cannot here more par- ticularly explain or refer to the subject. But this phantom pop- ulation, springing out of the ground as it were, and arraying itself before us as we traversed this dreary and heaven-con- demned waste, although we were entirely convinced of the cause of the apparition, excited those superstitious emotions so natural to all mankind. About five o'clock, v. m., we reached and passed, leaving it to our left, a small butte rising solitary from the plain. Aroimd this the ground is uneven, and a few scattering shrubs, leafless and without verdurf , raised themselves above the white sand and saline matter, which seemed recently to have drifted so as nearly to conceal them. Eight miles brought us to the north- «rn end of a short range of mountains, turning the point of which and bending our course to the left, we gradually cam' # INDIA.N SIGNAL-FIRES. 179 upon higher ground, composed of compact volcanic gravel. I was here considerably in the rear, ha\ang made a detour towards the base of the butte and thence towards the centre of the short range of mountains, to discover, if such existed, a spring of water. I saw no such joyful presentation nor any of the usual indications, and when I reached and turned the point, the whole party were several miles ahead of me, and out of sight. Congratulating myself that I stood once more on terra firma, I urged my tired mule forward with all the life and activity that spm* and whip could inspire her with, passing down the range of mountains on my left some four or five miles, and then rising some rocky hills connecting this with a long and high range of mountains on my right. The distance across these hills is about seven or eight miles. When I had reached the most elevated point of this ridge the sim was setting, and I saw my fellow-travellers still far in advance of me, entering again upon a plain or valley of salt, some ten or twelve miles in breadth. On the opposite side of this valley rose abruptly and to a high elevation another mountain, at the foot of which we expected to find the spring of fresh water that was to quench our thirst, and revive and sustain the drooping energies of our faithful beasts. About midway upwards, in a canada of this mountain, I no- ticed the smoke of a fire, which apparently had just been kindled, as doubtless it had been, by Indians, who were then there, and had discovered our party on the white plain below ; it being the custom of these Indians to make signals by fire and smoke, whenever they notice strange objects. Proceeding on- ward, I overtook an old and favorite pack-mule, which we familiarly called "Old Jeimy." She canied our meat and floi.ir — all that we possessed in fact — as a sustenance of life. Her pack had turned, and her burden, instead of being on her back was suspended under her belly. With that sagacity and discretion so characteristic of the Mexican pack-mule, being behind and following the party in advance, she had stopped short in the road until some one should come to re- arrange her cargo and place it on deck instead of vmder the 180 ANIMAL INSTINCT A CHALLENGE. keel. I dismounted and A%ent through, by myself, the ralhej tedious and laborious process of unpacking and repacking;. This done, " Old Jenny" set forward upon a fast gallop to overtake her companions ahead, and my own mule, as if not to be outdone in the race, followed in the same gait. " Old Jenny," however, maintained the honors of the race, keeping considerably ahead. Both of them, by that instinct or faculty- which mules undoubtedly possess, had scented the water on the other side of the valley, and their pangs of extreme thirst lu-ged them forward at this extraordinary speed, after the long and laborious march they had made, to obtain it. As I advanced over the plain — which was covered with a thicker crust of salt than that pre\aously desoibed, breaking imder the feet of the animals like a cnist of frozen snow — the spreading of the fires in the Canada of the mountain appeared with great distinctness. The line of lights was regular like camp-fires, and I was more than half inclined to hope that we should meet and be welcomed by an encampment of civilized men — either hunters, or a party from the Pacific bound home wards. The moon shone out abotit nine o'clock, displaying and illuminating the unnatural, unearthly dreariness of the scenery. " Old Jenny" for some time had so far beat me in the race as to be out of my sight, and I out of the sound of her foot- steps. I was entirely alone, and enjoying, as well as a man could with a crust of salt in his nostrils and over his lips, and a husky mouth and throat, the singularity of my situation, when I ob- served, about a quarter of a mile in advance of me, a dark, station- ary object standing in the midst of the hoary scenery. I sup- posed it to be " Old Jenny" in trouble once more about her pack. But coming up to a speaking distance, I was challenged in a loud voice with the usual guard-salutation, " Who comes there ?" Having no countersign, I gave the common response in such cases, " A friend." This appeared to be satisfactory, for I heard no report ci pistol or rifle, and no arrow took its sound- less flight through my body. I rode up to the object and dis- covered it to be Buchanan sitting upon his mule, which had become so much exhausted that it occasionally refused to gc THIRST WATER. 181 along, notwithstanding his industrious application of the usua, incentives to progress. He said that he had supposed liimself to be the "last man," before " Old Jenny" passed, who had given him a surprise, and he was quite thunderstruck when an ani- mal, mounted by a man, came charging upon him in his half' crippled condition. After a good laugh and some httle delay and diflSculty, we got his mule under way again, and rode slowly along together. We left, to us, in our tired condition, the seemingly inter- minable plain of salt, and entered upon the sagey slope of tht mountain about 10 o'clock. Hallooing as loudly as we coulcf raise our voices, we obtained, by a response, the direction of our party who had preceded us, and after some difficulty in making our way through the sage, grass, and willows, (the last a certain indication of water in the desert,) we came to where they had discovered a faint stream of water, and made their camp. Men and mules, on their first arrival, as Ave learned, had madly rushed into the stream and drank together of its muddy waters, — made muddy by their own disturbance of its shallow channel and sluggish current. Delay of gratification frequently gives a temporary relief to the cravings of hunger. The s«,me remark is applicable to thirst. Some hours previously I had felt the pangs of thirst with an acuteness almost amounting to an agony. Now, when I had reached the spot where I could gratify my desires in this respect, they were greatly diminished. My first care was to un- saddle my mule and lead it to the stream, and my next to take a survey of the position of our encampment. I then procured a cup of muddy water, and drank it off with a good relish. The fires before noticed were still blazing brightly above us on tlie side of the mountain, but those who had hghted them, had given no other signal of their proximity. The moon shone bril- liantly, and Jacob, Buchanan, McCkuy, and myself, concluded we would trace the small stream of water until we could find the fountain spring. After considerable search among the reeds, willow, and luxuriant grass, we discovered a spring. Buchan- an was so eager to obtain a draught of cold, pure water, that 16 182 THE OASIS BOTTOMLESS WELL. in dipping his cup for this purpose, the yielding weeds undei him gave way, and he sank into the basin, from which he Avas drawn out after a good " ducking," by one of those present. The next morning this basin was sounded to the depth of thirty- five feet, and no bottom found. We named this spring "Bu- chanan's well." We lighted no fires to-night, and prepared no evening meal. Worn down by the hard day's travel, aftei relieving our thh'st we spread our blankets upon the ground, and laying our bodies upon them, slept soundly in the brighl moonshine. Several of our party had been on the road up- wards of seventeen hours, without water or refreshment of any kind, except a small draught of cold coffee from our powder- keg, made of the salt sulphur-water at our last encampment, and had travelled the distance of seventy-five miles. The Salt Plain has never at this place, so far as I could understand, been crossed but twice previously by civilized men, and in these instances two days were occupied in performing the journey. Distance 75 miles. CHAPTER XIV. The oasis — Anxiety respecting our animals — Prodigious tall grass — Deserted Indian huts — Old trail of lost wagons — Dosort valley — Extinct volcanoes — Mountain spring — Elevated camp — Vast extent of the Salt Plain — Sub- limity of scenery — Moonlight view — Sunrise — Indian picket or game-trap — Another oasis — Altercation — Extreme heat of the sun — Wells in the des- ert — More desert valleys — Stream of running water — View of MaryV River, and valley — Indian signal-fires. August 4. — We did not lise from om- grassy couches this morning until the sun shone brcadly and bright ipon us, above the distant mountain ridges to the east. The scene around, with the exception of the small but highly fertile oasis encir- cling our encampment, is a mixture of brown and hoary barren- ness, aridity, and desolation, of which no adequate conception REFLECTIONS TALL GRASS. 183 can be conveyed by langiiage. The fii-es in the Canada of the mountain were still smoking, but no blaze was discernible. Last night they appeared as if not more than half a mile or a mile distant ; but considerably to our surprise this morning, by a day- liglit observation, we saw that the canada, from whence the smoke was cm-ling upwards in graceful wreaths, was some four or five miles from us. Our first care was to look after and collect together the animals, which, upon our arrival last night, we had let loose to refresh themselves in the manner most agreeable to them. We found them busily employed in cropping the tall seeded grass of the oasis. The anxieties respecting the health, strength, and safety of our animals, constitute one of the most considerable drawbacks upon the pleasm-es of our trip, — pleasures, as the reader may suppose, derived almost exclusively from the sub- lime and singular novelties presented to the -s-ision. The signifi- cance of the word is in no other respect applicable to this stage of our journey. To fathom the motives of an all- wise Providence, in creating so vast a field of desolation ; to detei'mine in our minds whether the little oases we meet with are the beginnings of a system or process of fertilization which is to ramify and extend, and to render this hitherto abandoned and uninhabitable waste a garden of flowers, teeming with its millions of life ; or whether they are evidences of the last expirmg struggles of nature to sustain animal and vegetable existence, which will leave this expansive region impenetrable to the curiosity of man, furnish a study for the thoughts, fruitful of interest and provo- cative of investigation. For the pmpose of resting and recruiting our over-labored mides, we had predetermined to remain encamped to-day. "We cleared away with our hands and willow sticks the thickly- matted grass and weeds around " Buchanan's well," making a hacdsome basin, some five or six feet in diameter. The water is very cold and pure, and tasted to us more delicious than any of the invented beverages of the epiciu'e to him. While engaged in this work. Brown brought forward a remarkable blade of grass which he had pulled up a short distance from us, to which 184 RECONNAISSANCE INDIAN HUTS. he called my attention, and desired its measurement. Ii was measured and found to be thirty-five feet in length. The diameter of the stalk was about half of an inch, and the dis- tance between the joints about eighteen inches. It was heavily seeded at the top. With this prodigiously tall vegetable pro- duction, we endeavored to sound the depth of the spring ; but after thn»«ting it down to its full length we could discover ao bottom. In the afternoon we saw two antelopes above us. Col. Rus- sell and Miller saddled theh mules and rode further up the slope of the mountain, for the purpose of hunting and to make other disc'>veries. During their absence a very dark cloud rose from the west, accompanied by distant thunder and a strong wind. Tb ihis supposition, as tlie placi; did not entiiely correspond witL the description I had received of tlie " Sink." Messrs. Craig and Stanley, in the course of the afternoct, ilthough their sujjjily of provisions was not more than equal t: »Jieir probable consumption, before tbey would reach the sctiija- FRIENDLY INDIANS. 211 ments of California, generously furnished us with a quantity of floxir and bacon, which I believed would be nearly or quite sufficient for our wants. They would accept of no compensa- tion for this very great favor ; and I consider myself, as well as every member of oxu* party, under the highest obUgations to them, for their most liberal manifestation of kindness and hospi- tality. Two Digger Indians came into our camp about sunset. One of them mounted on a miserably lean and broken down horse , and the other walking by the side of the swarthy, and nearly naked savage Caballero. The mounted man was the spokesman ; the other appearing to act in the capacity of a servant, or a personage of inferior consequence. After the first salutations, and shaking of hands, the piincipal desired a smoke. A pipe was produced, filled with tobacco, and lighted. Most of our party, as usual, declined a participation in this friendly ceremonial of the savages ; but I took my turn at the pipe, and puffed with a gusto equalling that of our two sable and naked visiters. The ceremony of smoking being concluded, the several mem- bers of the party commenced a conversation with our good- natured visiters. When one of the party spoke in English, the chief Indian would invariably imitftte \n\\\ great precision the sound of each word to the end of the sentence. The remarkable accuracy of this repetition or imitation, accompanied as it was with an indescribable comic action, was highly amusing, and produced peal upon peal of loud laughter. This sport continued around oiu- willow fires long after dark. A member of Messrs. Craig and Stanley's party, who for a number of years had been a trapper in the mountains, and was considerably skilled in the significance of Indian signs, after- wards held a conversation with the principal Indian, and learned from him, that a short day's journey woiild bring us to some pools of standing water, and that after this, we would find no water or grass for a long distance. The time was indicated by pointing to the coui'se of the sun and its positions when the incidents respecting which we inqmred would take place. Other matters were explained by a similar reference to object* 212 FRIENDLY INDIANS. connected with and illustrative of those inq aired about. The information derived from this conversation was not sufficiently clear to solve the doubt, as to whether this was or was not the " Sink" of Mary's river. Before our company retired to rest, I instructed the sentinel first on duty, to communicate to those who succeeded him, that the two Indians were not to be permitted to leave the principal camp-fire untU morning, under any pretext. I did not know what designs upon our animals they might entertain them- selves, or what concealed associates they might have to assist them. This order was communicated to the Indians in a man- ner which they could not misimderstand, and they submitted without the slightest opposition. One of them (the sers-ing man, who was so obliging as several times during the evening to bring us water from the slough) had a small garment oi shawl, made of hare-skins sewn together, about a yard in diam- eter. We gave the two a skin to spread on the groxmd for their bed, and coiling themselves up in an incredibly small space, the hare-skin shawl or blanket covered their bodies, heads and feet entirely. How they managed to compress their per- sons into so small a space, is a marvel. Distance 16 mUes. August 19. — I rose this morning before it was light, and approaching the embers of our watch-fire, which had been kept burning during the night by those on duty, the first object I discovered was the two Indians coiled up, and enveloped in the yard-square of rabbit-skins, as I had left them when I retired to my bivouac last night. Tliey were in a profound slumber, evincing tlieir perfect confidence in our good faith in regard to them. 1 touched this small round heap of human flesh gently with my foot, when they roused from their sleep, and rubbing their eyes, sat upright before the faint blaze made by the dry willow twigs I had placed upon the fire. The elder and more consequential of the two, ordered the other to go and collect some fuel, which service he performed with much promptitude, bringing in a large bundle of dead sage-bushes, wliich igi^iting upon the fire, burned with a brilliant blaze. During the ab- sence of the junior or serving Indian, his nakedness, the seignior SINK OF Mary's river. 213 or master, gave many shrugs and shivers, showing conclusively that the cool morning atmosphere did not strike agreeably upon his bare skin, and he pointed with much meaning and earnest- ness to my coarse palto, as being an excellent protection against the chills of the morning. Dayhght dawning, our party was roused, and our morning meal prepared and discussed with all practicable dispatch, — as we felt certain that we had a long and dreary day's march before us. The two Indians were regaled with such food as wp subsisted upon ourselves, and then dismissed, apparently well satisfied with our treatment and attention, parting from us with the most good-natured countenances and gesticulations. Leaving the grassy oasis upon which we were encamped a Uttle after sunrise, and travelling a few miles, we turned the point of a mountain, the slope of which juts into the plain on the right. From this point the trail takes a southwest course, and runs across a totally barren plain, with the exception of a few clumps of sage-bushes, a distance of twenty miles. No sign of the river or of the existence of water indicated itself within this distance. Some remarkable petrifactions displayed them- selves near the trail early this morning. They had all the appearance of petrified fungi, and many of them were of large dimensions. The surface of the plain is generally soft and Ught. In places a dark scorious and \'itreous gravel is mingled with the ashy and alkaline composition. This gravel is sharp and very severe upon the hoofs of our animals. At the southern edge of this plain we came to some pools of standing water, as described by the Indians last night, covered with a yellowish slime, and emitting a most disagreeable fetor. The margins of these pools are whitened with an alkaline de- posite, and green tufts of a coarse grass, and some reeds or flags, raise themselves above the snow-like soil. I procured from one of the pools a cup of the water, and found it so thor- oughly saturated with alkali, that it would be dangerous for ourselves or our animals to make use of it. It was as acrid and bitter as the strongest lye filtered through ashes, 'ishmy of our animals being excessively thirsty, rushed to the pools imraedh 214 DESERT PLAIN. ately after we approached them, but upon tasting the water, they turned from it with disappointment and disgust. A ridge of low sand-hills runs entirely across the plain or valley immediately below these pools, and from these features corresponding in some particulars with the description I had previously received of it, I was compelled to believe that this was the " Sink of Mary^s river" instead of the place where we had encamped last night. It was nearly two o'clock, p. m., when we reached these pools, and from them (supposing them, as was the fact, to be the " Sink") to the waters of Truckee, or Salmon Trout river, by the best information and estimate, it is forty-five mUes. Some of our party were in favor of encamping here, forbidding as the place was in all its aspects. But I immediately came to the conclusion that to encamp at this place, would be not only use- less to ourselves, so far as rest and comfort were concerned, but dangerous, in our thirsty state, both to us and our animals. In preference, therefore, I determined to proceed on our march, and oncamp in the desert beyond, without grass or water. Adopting this plan, we would by diligence, before sunset, ap- proach to within twenty or twenty-five miles of water and grass, and by starting early, after resting our animals six or eight hours, we could reach Truckee river before our own thirst and the thirst and hunger of oui- mules became \mbearable. We passed from the pools or " Sink " over the low ridge of sand-hills, in a south course. Our mules waded through these bills, or heaps of dry and ashy earth, rather than walked over them, sinking in many places nearly to their bellies, and mani- festing tlie strongest signs of exhaustion. The dim outlines of mountains cou)d be seen through the dense smoky vapor im- pregnating the atmosphere, about fifteen or twenty mUes in front. The plain is utterly destitute of vegetation, with the exception of an occassional strip of sage on tlie swells, and a few patches of brown grass, and lierc and there a small clump of straggling flags or reeds, which seem to war for an existence witli the parched and ungenerous soil. We ascended the ridge of mountains just noticed, by an easy SCORIOUS MOUNTAINS. 21 inclined plain. Some miles before we commenced the ascent, I observed on the slope of the plain a line of perpendicular rocks, forming a wall, with occasional high elevations, representing watch-towers and turrets. A low gap afforded us an easy pas- sage between the mountains, which are composed of nearly black basaltic rocks. The whole country in this vicinity, at no very remote period, has evidently been under the action of vol- canic fires. The rocks are cinders, and the earthy substances with which they are mingled are ashes. From the summit of the ridge, I had a view of the shadowy outlines of another range of mountains to the west of us, at an apparent distance of twenty miles. The smoke was so dense that I could determme nothing satisfactorily in regard to the valley between us and this range of mountains, but I enter- tained a strong hope that we should find a stream of water here. This hope, however, was disappointed. Just as the sun was smking behind the spiral and dismal-looking summits of the western mountains, and before we had descended into the bot- tom, the trail tui-ncd abruptly to the left, keeping along the slope on the eastern side of the valley. I immediately gave up all expectations of water or grass to-night, as a more utterly barren prospect than that presented before us is not conceivable. It was impossible for us to proceed much further, as several of o\U" party, whose mules were nearly exhausted, were at this point a long distance in the rear, and would find it difficult to urge their over-labored animals even a few miles. A point in the valley, formed by the jutting of a low hUl or bench of the mountain, about two mUes before me, seemed to be a suitable position for cur encampment, under the cncum- stances, for the night, or for the few hours necessary to rest our mules, before continuing our march. While marching towards this point, I noticed to the left, or. './.t declivity of the moun- tain, a small patch of groimd displaying a pale yellowish vege- tation. A phenomenon so singular amidst the brown sterility of mountain and valley, excited my curiosity, and I thought it not impossible that we might find there a small quantity of vater. Calling Miller, I requested him to ride up to the spot 216 REMARKABLE BOILING SPRINGS. and ascei'tain what the yellowish growth miglit be. He T?aa quickly at the place designated, and very soon afterwards, taking off his cap, swung it round and round, nearly overjoyed at the discovery he had made, which we all immediately knew to be a spring. Had he discovered a mine of solid gold, or a ton of diamonds, it would, in our thirsty condition, have pro- duced no other sensations than those of extreme disappointment. Water was what we craved, and a universe of glittering wealth would not have weighed in the balance of our desires against it. Tiu-ning short to the left, I rode up the slope to where Miller was still standing. JBefore I reached him, I could perceive a sensible moderation in his joyous manifestations. I asked him if he had found water ? He answered that he had, but that his mule, in attempting to drink out of a hole, had nearly scalded its tongue ofif. I could see that the mule Avas suffering consid- erable pain from the effects of the boihng hot water which, in- cautiously, it had attempted to drink. Passing a little further along, I found myself in the midst of a hundred or more holes or small basins, varying from two to ten feet in diameter, of boiling water. Searching about, I found in a ravine a small basin of water, that oozed sluggishly through a stratum of earth, which, although quite warm, was not burn- ing hot. I drank copiously of this water, and the other mem- bers of our party, and our mules, coming up, one after another, drank likewise. But as soon as the stock in the basin was ex- hausted, the new supply that flowed in became too hot for use. We encamped here, after a ride of twelve hours, tying ow. mules closely to the wild sage-bushes, to prevent ihem from falhiig into the boiling holes by which they were sur"ounded. These springs are a great curiosity, on account of their va- riety and the singularity of their action and deposites. The deposite from one liad fori.icd a liollow pyrninid of reddish clay, about eight feet in lieight, and six feet in diameter at the base, tapering to a point. There were several air-holes near the top, and inside of it the waters were rumbling, and the steam puff' Log through the air-holes with great violence. M'ller thre-w Btoaea at the cap of this pyramid. It broke like brittle pottery. BOILING SPRINGS. 817 and the red and turbid waters ran down the sides of the frail structure which they had erected. Not far from this was a small basin, and a hvely but diminutive stream nmning from it, of water as white as milk, which, indeed, it greatly resembled. I cooled some of it in my cup, and drinking, found it not unpal- atable. It was impregnated with magnesia. In another basin, the water wavS thickened, almost to the consistence of slack mor- tar, with a blue clay. It was rolling and tumbhng about with activity, and volumes of steam, accompanied with loud puffing reports, ascended from it. The water of the largest basin (about ten feet in diameter) was limpid, and impregnated with salt and sulphur. From this basin, when we encamped, a small stream ran down the slope. The rock surroimding these springs is a mere shell or crust, formed, doubtless, by a depos- ite from the overflowing waters from the basins or holes, which are so many ventilators for the escape of the steam from the heated and boiling mass of liquid beneath. We made a dam across the stream flowing from the large basin, some distance below it, by raking together the slight cov- ering of earth upon the rocks. We thus collected a considera- ble body of water, which, cooling, was more palatable to our- selves and our mules than any which we had before obtained. This dam was enlarged before we retired for the night, in order that we might have an abundant supply of cool water, brackish and bitter though it was, in the morning. As we moved about our camp after dark, we were in con- stant danger of falling into the scalding and bottomless basins or holes by which we were surrounded. Fortunately no accident occurred. The ground under our blankets was quite warm, from the efl"ects of the heated matter rolling, bubbling, and puff- ing in the bowels of the earth. Every thing around is sufficiently cheerless and desolate to depress tlie most buoyant tempera- ment. The sable and utterly sterile moiuitains, the barren and arid plain, incapable of sustaining either insect or animal, pre- sent a dreariness of scenery that would be almost overpower- ing in its influences, but for the hope of more pleasing scenes oeyond. Distance 45 mi:es. 19 S18 SUBTERRANEAN STEAl'l POWSJl. CHAPTER XVII. Mirage — Phantom cataract — Signs of water — Truckee river — Insanity pio« duced by apprehension and excitement — Enter the California moun< tains — Mountain forests — Mountain valley — Truckee river Indians — Cold nights — Mountain lake — Origin of the name of Truckee river and lake — Scenery of the Sierra Nevada — Log-cabin erected by emigrants in distress — Mountain raspberry — Pass of the Sierra — Uber valley — Spring in August — An attack by hornets — Beautiful encampment — Human BkuU. August 20. — The disquiet of our animals, thirsting for water, and famishing for food, kept me awake nearly the whole night. As soon as the stars indicated the approach of the morning, I woke my fellow-travellers, and a cup of coffee having been made from the hot water of the springs, a little after daylight we were ready to take leave of our dismal encampment. Much to our astonishment and disappointment, when we visited the dam and reservoir of water constructed last night, it was entirely dry. Not a drop of water was contained in it. Tlie stream from the basin had ceased to flow. When I first woke this morning, there was no sound of the agitation of wa- ter in any of the basins ; but just as we were about to depart, the rumbling and rolling, and the loud puffs, accompanied by fog-like volumes of steam from the boiling liquid beneath us, were resumed with an energy greatly increased from what I observed on our first arrival. One of our party noticing this display of infernal steam-power, exclaimed, " Let us be off : — A — II is firiny up ;" and it did, indeed, seem as if the machinery of the vast workshops in the subterranean recesses of nature, had just been put in operation for the day, by the spirits and powers of the middle earth. About throe miles from our encampment, I Iscovered in the bank of a ravine, crossed by the trail, a faint spring. The wa- Uir barely oozing from the earth, although cool, was bitter, and TRUCKEE RIVER. 219 the quantity was so small, that we could with difficulty obtan a cupful. A ride of several hours down the valley, brought us to a ridge of sandy hills running entirely across it. In the coiu-se of the morning, I noticed the phenomenon of mirage in great perfection, A wide cascade or cataract of glitter- ing, foaming, and tumbling waters was represented and perfectly well defined on the slope of the mountain to our left, at an appa- rent distance of five or six miles. Below this, was a limpid lake, so calm and mirror-liVe that it reflected with all the distinct- ness of reajity, the tall, inverted shapes of the mountains and all the scenery beyond its tempting but illusory surface. Nature, in this desert region, if she does not furnish the reahty, frequently presents the ghosts of beautiful objects and scenery. The distance across the ridge, or rather elevated plain of sandy undulations, is about ten miles. Over this plain the travelling is very laborious. We were compelled to dismount from our animals, weakened as they were by thirst and hunger, in order to get them along through the deep sand. Soon after rising upon this plain, I noticed first the footprints on the sand of hares, afterv/ards of wolves, and presently of a variety of animals, all of which seemed to have travelled in the same di- rection that we were pursuing ; — a certain indication that we were on the right course for water, and no great distance from it. We crossed an Indian foot-trail very deep, wide, and fresh, showing that Indians to the number of several hundred must have passed along within a short time. This trail leads to the Pyramid lake into which the waters of Truckee river debouche, and sink or evaporate. The Indians of this region take lai'ge quantities of salmon-trout from this lake. At half-past 12 o'clock, we saw at the distance of about two miles, the course of Truckee river, indicated by a line of wil- lows, grass, and other green herbage, and a number of tall trees, — the last a sight that has not saluted us for five hundred mUes. Our animals, as if reinvigorated by the prospect of grass and the scent of water, lushed forward with great speed, and we were soon in the middle of the stream, from the clear corrent of which all drank copious draughts. We immediately 220 CRT OF DISTRESS. crossed to the bottom on the opposite side and encamped, much fatigued, as the reader may imagine. Truckee river at this point is about fifty feet in breadth, with a rapid current of clear water about two feet in depth and a gi-avelly bed. The bottom, or fertile land, is here about a mile in width, with a growth of small willows, hawthorns, and a few tall cotton- wood trees. In the openings, wild peas and a variety of grasses and other herbage, grow with luxuriance. The shade of the trees is most agreeable, and adds greatly to the pleasant- ness of our encampment, when contrasting our cool shelter from the sun, "n'ith its scorching fervor upon the surrounding desola- tion. We angled in the river, but contrary to our expecta- tions, caught no fish. Some of our party killed a duck or two. Game sign is abimdant, but the Indians, who have recently been here in large numbers, have driven oflF the game. Dis- tance 20 miles, August 21. — I was wakened from a profoimd slumber, this morning, by piercing shrieks and wailings. I was not quite certain when I woke, whether it was a dream or reaUty. Satis- fying myself that I was not asleep, I listened attentively for a repetition of the strange and mournful sounds which had dis- turbed my repose. Tliey were soon renewed with greater distinctness than before, and appeared to proceed from some animal, or person in distress or danger, on the opposite side of the river. They soon, however, ceased altogether, and it being quite dark, exhausted as I was, I concluded that 1 would lie down again, and when dayliglu dawned, ascertain the cause of these singular vocal performances in tliis desert region. I soon fell asleep again, however, and did not wake until after sunrise. When I rose, Messrs. Craig and Stanley were riding towards our camp, and they informed us that their wagons had reached the opposite bank of the river just before daylight, having ^ravelled all night, and that they were now crossing the stream for the purpose of encamping for the day. 1 was much grati- fied that these, our good friends, had crossed the desert in safety, and liad reached a point where they could recruit their animabt. I inquii'ed of them, if they Lid heard the tihrielu IN8ANS MAM. 821 and wailings which had disturbed my slumbers early in the mornmg / Mr. Craig informed me that one of their party, soon after leaving the boiling springs, from some cause had become quite fi-antic, with, as he lioped, temporary insanity, brought on by the fatigues and hardships of the march, or from diinking the impure water of the desert. They had been compelled to place him mside of one of the wagons and confine him to it, in order to get him along. .When, early this morning, they com- menced the descent of the bluffs to the river, he leaped from the wagon, under the mlluence of a paroxysm of insanity with loud cries and shrieks, and after describing several times by his movements, a circle, he declared that the destiny of Provi- dence, so far as regarded himself, was accomplished ; that nothing more was expected of him or could be demanded from him, and he was willing to submit to his fate and die on that spot, and be bmied within that circle. It was some time, and the united strength of two or three men was required, before he coidd be got back again into the wagon. By the request of Mr. Craig, after his camp was made, I visited the man so strangely attacked. His paroxysms had con- siderably abated in then strength, and he seemed to be return- ing to a more rational state of mind. He was contmually endeavoring to vomit. Bemg a stout, \igorous young man, with an abundance of hard muscular flesh upon liim, and hav- ing an excited pulse, but not one indicating physical disease, [ inquired of him why he so frequently endeavored to vomit ? He answered, that soon after he left the boiling springs, strange sensations of pain and apprehension came over him, and he de- manded some remedy for them ; — that a large vial containing camphor partially dissolved in alcohol was the only medicine they possessed, which was given to him ; — that he had first drank the liquid solution, and then, as he supposed, in an im- conscious state, had swallowed a quantity of the undissolved gum, for he had already thrown up several pieces of the size of the end of his thumb, and still he beUeved there was a large quantity inside of him. I told him that I would prepare an 222 VALLEY OF TRUCKEB. emetic for him, by which he would be entirely relieved and restored to perfect health — that nothing was the matter with him but orer-excitement. He said that he was willing to take the emetic to please me and Mr. Craig, but did not conceive it to be of any utility. He was not superstitious or given to superstitious freaks and notions. On the contrary, he was a cool, calm, calculating man, and he was fully satisfied that his appointed time under the dispensations of Providence had an-ived, and he must die, and be buried near this place. It was hi vam that I argued against this delusion, and told him that one so robust and healthy could not die even if he wished it, imless he took his own life. The response was the same, — Providence had ordered it — he had fulfilled his destiny, and here he must die and be buried. I returned to my own camp, and procuring a quantity of ipecacuanka, it was administered to him. Under the operation of the emetic, he threw up nearly an ounce of the concrete gum of camphor. I could not wonder after this exhibition, that he imagined that his destiny was fulfilled ! I visited him again in the afternoon, and although much more composed than in the morning, he was still laboring under his original delusion, and 'n this state of mind I left him. The morning was clear, cool, and calm, but as usual, the sun's rays in the middle of the day were intensely hot. We remained encamped, to recruit the strength of our animals, which have become much exhausted by the rapid drives down Mary's river, and thence across the desert. tiugust 22. — We resumed our journey at seven o'clock. Our mules are considerably recruited by the rest we have allowed them, and by the imtritious grass and refreshing water at our last encampment. The valley of the river for a few miles, as we travelled up it, is of nearly the same width as described at our encampment ; but it soon contracts, and the river and nanow bottom are walled in on both sides by high ranges of barren mountains. Some of these mountains are composed of a reddish or brown sandstone, others, iiigher up, of basalt. A few tall cotton-wood trees DAINTY FISH. 223 occasionally skirt the margin of the river. These, with small willows, and a variety of diminutive shrubs and rank weeds, with an occasional opening of grass, make up the vegeUition of the valley. The river flows down, with a lively current of Umpid water, over a rocky bed ; and the green vegetation along its banks contrasts finely with the brown sterility of the adjacent moun- tains. My sensations whUe travelhng along its banks and in sight of its sparkling waters, are something like those expe- rienced in a stormy and wintry day, when comfortably seated in a warm hbrary or parlor, with a view from the ^vindow of the violent strife and bitter frigidity of the elements without. The water and grass are our comfort, and our security for the reah- zation of our hopes, in regard to our destination. We travelled at a rapid gait, the traU being good and our spirits buoyant ; and at three o'clock, coming to an excellent camping-ground, with fine grass, water, and wood, we halted, and encamped for the day. During the day's march we have forded the river about twenty times. This is necessary, in order to avoid the canones, on one side or the other of the narrow val- ley. Among numerous footprints of Indians, to-day, I saw a plain and fresh shoe-track, showing that some person who has walked here has had communication with civilization. I experimented with the hook and fine in the river again, but without success. Not even a nibble compensated my patient perseverance. Along the banks of the river there are myriads of diminutive toads,- or frogs, about an inch in length, which, when disturbed, leap into the water, furnishing abundant food for all the fish in the stream. The bait on the hook, therefore, has no temptations for these well-fed gentrj- of the clear moun- tain torrent. Distance 25 miles. August 23. — When I rose this morning, just after the dawn of day, I discovered that the dew-drops condensed upon an India-rubber cloth lying by my side, were congealed, and that my buflfalo-skins were hoary with frost. Ice as thick as window-glass, had also formed upon the water left in our buckets. The dawn was glorious, and the sun, when it rose 224 £ANDSOME MOUNTAIN VALLEY. above the moimtain peaks, shone with unusual splendor through the clear atmosphere. We commenced our day's march about eight o'clock, contin- uing up the river, the general course of which, as far as we have followed it, is nearly from the southwest to the northeast. Ot course, there are many turns and windings which vary from this usual dhection of the current of the stream. About twelve o'clock we emerged from the confined limits between the high ranges of mountains, affording us, in many places, room barely sufficient to pass, without leaving the bottom of the river, into a spacious and highly fertile valley, eight or ten mUes in diameter. The grasses in this valley are very luxuriant, and their varieties numerous. There is no timber, with the exception of the clumps of small willows belting the stream, and fringing the margin of a deep and miry slough, which runs entirely across it. Pine timber, however, of stately dimensions, begins to exhibit itself on the sides and summits of the surrounding mountains. In crossing the valley on the southern side, we passed through several miles of tule, a species of rush, or reed, which here grows to the height of eight feet, on the wet or swampy soil We saw numbers of deer and antelope in the valley, and I no- ticed in several places fresli footprints of a horse. After leaving the fertile land of the valley, the trail runs over an elevated and undulating barren plain, witli a growth of stunted sage, and a soil mixed witli sharp volcanic gravel, very injurious to the feet of our animals, some of which have become foot-sore and lame. We gradually approached the river, which again becomes walled in by liigh mountains, leaving the channel and a narrow bottom alternating from one side to the other, for a road or passage. During the afternoon we passed several yellow-pine trees in the bottom, of large dimensions, the trunk of one of them measuring eighteen feet in circumference. A number of Indians wore seen on the opposite bank of the river one of whom had some fish. We beckoned to them to come over and tradi; with us, but they vvci'e either alanned or would not heed our signs, and soon disappeared. We encamped at four o'clock, much fatigued with our day's TIMBER OF THE MOUNTAINS. 22S ride. The road has generally been rough and rocky, and very exhausting to our mules. In front of us, to the west, there is an elevated range of densely timbered mountains. Distance 20 miles. August 24. — Our mules were greatly alarmed several times during the night, breaking their picket-ropes, and running in all directions. Indians were doubtless prowling about for the pur- poses of theft, but we saw none. We resumed our march at the usual hour. Following the river between two and three miles farther up, we turned ab- ruptly to the right, crossing its channel about the thirtieth time, and, through a ravine or gorge, ascended the range of mountains on o\xr right. We reached the summit of the range by a com- paratively easy and gradual ascent, passing over some rocky, but not difficult places. The mountains are covered with a thick growth of tall and symmetrical timber. Among the varieties of trees I noticed the yellow and white-pine, the fir, the common red cedar, and the Chinese arhor vitce. Many of the firs and cedars are two hun- dred feet in heifjht, with a diameter at the trunk of six or eifrht feet, beautifully tapering to a point. Nothing could be more- agreeable to us than the sight and the shade of these stately giants of the forest, piercing the sky with their tall and arrow- straight forms. We reached the summit of the gap that affi^rded us a passage over the mountain, about eleven o'clock, and descended a Ions and very steep declivity on the other side, bringing us into a small, oval-shaped and grassy valley, with a faint spring branch of pure cold water ninning through it. This hollow is entirely surrounded by high mountains. The soil is rich, and the grass and other vegetation luxm'iant. The impersonations of romance and solitude could scarcely find a more congenial abode than this beautiful and sequestered spot. The trail here turns to the left again, taking a nearly soutli coiu'se, over a rolling country, h€a\'ily timbered with pines, firs^ and cedars, with occasional grassy openings. At three o'clock, p. M., we struck a small str -am, flowing in a southeast coirse, 226 UNFRIENDLY INDIANS. a tributary of Truckee river. We encamped in a small fertile bottom on this stream. Soon after we crossed Truckee river this morning, and just as we were commencing the ascent of the mountain, several Indians made their appearance, about fifty yards from the traU. The leader and chief was an old man, with a deeply-fuiTOwed face. I rode towards him, holding out my hand in token of friendship. He motioned me not to advance fm-ther, but to ass on and leave him, as he desu'ed to have no commmiication with us. I insisted upon the reason of tliis unfriendly demon- stration ; assming him, as well as I could by signs, that we desired to be at peace, and to do them no harm. His response was, if I imderstood it, that we, the whites, had slaughtered his men, taken his women and children into captivity, and drivon him out of his country. I endeavored to assure hun that we were not of those who had done him and his tribe these wrongs, and held out my hand a second time, and moved to approach him. With great energy of gesticulation, and the strongest signs of excited aversion and dread, he again motioned us not to come nearer to him, but to pass on and leave him. Tlie other Indians, some six or eight in number, took no part in the dialogue, but were standing in a line, several yards from their chief, with their bows and arrows in their hands. Finding that it would be useless, perhaps dangerous, to press our friend- sliip further, we continued our march. I have but little doubt, that these Indians are the remnant of some tribe that has been wantonly destroyed in some of the bloody Indian slaughters wliich have occurred in Cahfornia. Distance 20 miles. Au<;ust 25. — The raornino: was clear and cold. Ice of the thickness of window -glass was congealed on the surface of the water left in our bucket and tin cups. The grass was white, and stiffened with frc«t. The extremities of my long hair had the h.viry hue of old tge Notwithstanding tliis severity of the tempera jire, and our exposure to it, w? felt little or no suflfer- ing or incouvenicnce from it. Crossing the stream we travelled in a south course, ov«r low hills and a rolling or undulating country, heavily timbered TRUCKEE LAKE. fl^lT principall} with the yellow-pine, with some fsw firs and cedars. In the course of our day's march, we crossed a number of small branches, with green, grassy bottoms. About one o'clock, r. M., we descended a steep dechvity, and struck a stream, which I at first conjectured might be one of the tributaiies of the Sacramento ; but after an examination of its current, I discovered that it ran tlie wrong way, and was compelled, reluctantly, to believe that we had not yet reached the summit of the Sieira Nevada ; and that the stream was a tributary of, or the main Truckee river. The trail runs along this stream a short distance, and then lea\ing it on the right hand, winds under a range of high mountainous elevations, until it strikes again the same water- course, in a distance of a few miles. About two o'clock, p. m., we suddenly and unexpectedly came in sight of a small lake, some four or five miles in length, and about two miles in breadth. We approached this lake by ascending a small stream which runs through a flat bot- tom. On every side, except this outlet from it, the lake is surrounded by mountains of great elevation, heavily and darkly timbered with pines, firs, and cedars. The sheet of water just noticed, is the head of Truckee river, and is called by the emi- grants who first discovered and named it, Truckee Lake. [It may not be improper for me in this place to give the origin of this name. A small party of emigrants, with but little knowledge of the country, and the difficulties obstructing their progress, late in the autumn of 1844, were attempting to force their way through these mountains to California. They were lost, and nearly discouraged. The snows fell in the moun- tains oefore they had reached the Pass ; and death by starva- tion, frost, and fatigue, was staring them in the face. At the crisis of their distress, while forcing their way up the river, an Indian made his appearance, and in a most friendly manner volunteered his services to guide a portion of the partj over the mountains. His appearance and eocentricities of manner re- sembled so much those of a man by the name of True Icee, who happened to ha\e been an acquaintance of one o< 238 LOO CABIN. the party, that they jave the Indian the name of Tbuckkk * and called the river and lake, along which he conducted them, after this name. This same Indian (Truckee) was the principal of the two who encamped with us twenty-five miles above the " Sink'' of Mary's river. He and his brother afterwards camt over into California with a company of emigrants ; and accom- panied the California battahon on its march from Monterey to the Ciudad de los Angelos.] The Alps, so celebrated in history and by all travellers and admirers of mountain landscape, cannot, I am satisfied, present scenery more wild, more rugged, more grand, more romantic, and more enchantingly picturesque and beautiful, than that which surrounds this lake, of which the lake itself composes a part. Just before we struck the shore of the lake at its lower or eastern end, we came to a tolerably well-constructed log-house,* with one room, which evidentlj' had been erected and occu- pied by civilized men. The floor inside of this house was covered with feathers, and strewn around it on the outside, were pieces of ragged cloth, torn newspapers, and manuscript letters, the writing in most of which was nearly obhterated. The title of one of the newspapers, was that of . religious pub- lication in Philadelphia. It had, from its date, been printed several years. One of the letters which I picked up and ex- amined, bore the frank of some member of congress, and was addressed to " Dr. John Townsend, Bloomfield, Ind." Another letter was dated at Morrislown, N. J., but by whom it was written, or to whom addressed, I could not decipher. The emigrant party which erected this cabin is the same to which I have alluded above. They were belated in the mountains, and suffered almost incredible hardships, before they reached the settlemeii's of California. We experienced considerable difficulty in making our way round the northeastern side of the lake, the steep side of the * This ii the place where the horrible dieastera to the eruigrants of I84(i took place. KATTJRAL FORTIFICATION — GllISLY BEAR. 229 moimtam jeing in many places so boggy that oui- mules suni to their bellies in the mire. We reached the upper end of the lake at four o'clock, and encamped on the left of the trail, in a small grabsy opening suiTOunded by tall and dense timber. The forest in the narrow but fertile bottom of the lake, and on the sides of the mountains, where there is any soil for its suste- nance, is dense, and the trees are of immense size. A brilliantly green and highly ornamental moss covers the hmbs of many of the trees. The rock composing the moimtains here, is chiefly granite. Just beyond us, and overlooking the gap where we expect to-morrow to pass the crest of the Sierra Nevada, is a high mountain with a natural fortification upon its extreme summit, which but for its c5xlopean magnitude, the wild and desolate country m which it is situated, and its unapproachable height, the observer would at once say was the work of himian hands, so apparently regular and perfect is the construction of its walls, turrets, and bastions. While travelling along the side of the mountain near the shore of the lake, we found a most delicious variety of the raspberry, ripe and in full perfection. Its flavor is, I think, fully equal, if not superior to any raspbeny I have before tasted. Were it cultivated in our gardens, I cannot doubt that it would supersede the varieties which the;y produce, and which we so much prize. After we encamped, Jacob and McClary ascended one of the rocky peaks of the moimtain, the base of which rested near us. When they returned, which they did not untU it was nearly dark, they informed us that they saw on the moim- tain a female grisly bear with cubs. Brown killed a fat deer just before sunset, on the densely-timbered bottom of the lake near our camp, the meat of which in our nearly destitute condi- tion was highly acceptable. Nothing can exceed the almost awful profoundness of the solitude by which we are smuounded. Distance 24 mUes. August 26. — We did not leave our encampment until the •im, rising abo\ e the lofty moimtains to the east, dispensed ita 90 230 BEAUTIFDL SCENERY. warm and cheerful rays throug: the openings of the magnifi- cent forest, by which we had bt en sheltered for the night. It is quite impossible to convey by language an adequate concep- tion of the symmetrical beauty and stateliness of the forest- trees surrounding the lake, and covering the sides of the adja- cent mountains. A skilful artist with his pencd and his brushy alone, can do justice to this contrast of Alpme and Elysian scenery. The sublime altitude of the mountains, their granite and barren heads piercing the sky ; the imibrageous foliage of the tall pines and cedars, deepening in verdure and density as the forest appi-oaches the more gentle and grassy slopes along the banks of the lake, the limpid and tranquU surface of which daguerreotypes distinctly every object, from the moss-covered rocks laved by its waves to the bald and inaccessible simimits of the Sien-a — these scenic objects, with the fresh incense of the forest, and the fragrant odor of the wild rose, constituted a landscape that, from associations, melted the sensibilities, blunted as they were by long exposure and privation, and brought back to our memories the endearments of home and the pleasures of civilization. The trail leaves the shore of the lake on the right hand, ascending over some rocky hills, and after crossing some diffi- cult ravines and swampy ground densely timbered, we reached the base of the crest of the Sierra Nevada. To mount this was our next great difficulty. Standing at the bottom and looking upwards at the perpendicular, and in some places, impending granite cliffs, the observer, without any further knowledge on the subject, would doubt if man or beast liad ever made good a passage over them. But we knew that man and horse, oxer, and wagon, women and childien, had crossed this formidable and apparently impassable barrier erected by Nature between tlie desert and the fertile districts on the coast of the Pacific. What their energy had accoraplisho'l, impelled though it had been by an invincible desperation, we knc Vf could be achieved by us. In good heart, thei-efore, we commenced the steep ascent, leaping our animals from crag to crag, and climbing in places nearly perpend icuhir precipices of smooth granite rocks. Onf PASS OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. 231 of our mules in this ascent, heavily packed, fell backwards twice, and rolled downwards, until her descent was interrupted by a projecting rock. We thought, each time, that her career of duty and usefulness had terminated ; and that her bones would bleach among the barren rocks of the mountain. But she Revived from the stunning and bruising effects of her backward somersets ; and with great exertions on our own part in assist- ing her, she reached with us the simimit of the Pass. The view from the crest of "the Sierra to the east, is inexpres- sibly comprehensive, grand, and picturesque. After congratu- lating ourselves upon the safe achievement of our morning feat, and breathing our mules a few minutes, we proceeded on our journey. A mile brought us to a small dimple on the top of the mountain, in the centre of which is a miniature lake, sur- roimded by green grass. It was some time before we could determine our course down the Sierra on the western side. The emigrant wagon-trail was here entirely effaced. Around the small lake we saw the traces of encampments ; but beyond it, in no direction, could we discover any signs that man had ever passed. Accompanied by Col. Russell, I rode several miles down the left side of the ra\Tne. We experienced great difficulty in making our way through the rocks, and over fallen timber. After an hour or more spent in this exploration, we returned to the lake, and found th;i our party had all left it. We could hear faintly, however, at :i long distance, an occasional whoop, which was echoed by the caverns and the rocks of the moimtain. Searching about, we ascertained, by the fi-esh traU of our party, that they had left the lake on the right hand, over a small rocky elevation ; on the other side of which, we could discover the indentations of wagon-wheels made last year. Following the fresh trail, which it was difficult to do, over the rocky suiface of the ground, and the sound of the whoops of our party, we came up to them after an hour's hard and difficult riding. Descending the rocky ravine a few miles, we emerged from it and entered a beautiful level valley, some four or five miles in length from east to west, and about two miles in breadth. A 232 USER VALLEY SPRING IN AUGUST. narrow, sluggish stream runs through this valley, the waters of which are of considerable depth, and the banks steep and miry A luxuriant growth of grasses, of an excellent quaUty, covered the entire valley with the richest verdure. Flowers were in bloom ; and although late in August, the vegetation presented all the tenderness and freshness of May. This valley has been named^ by the emigrants " Uber Valley ;" and the stream which runs through it, and is a tributary of the Rio de los Plumas, or Feather river, has the same name. It is sometimes pronounced Juha ; but I think Uber is the correct etymology. How the name was derived, I never could learn. We foimd, after some search, a place where we could ford the stream without stalling our animals in its soft and spongy banks and bed. But it was some time before we could discovei at what point the wagon-traU left the valley. Leaving the valley we crossed a high undxilating coimtry, timbered with pines, firs, and cedars, whose symmetrical pro- portions and rich foliage, with the bright green moss clothing their branches, would baffle the skill and coloring of the most artistical painter, to represent them faithfully on canvass. This country is watered by a connected chain of seven small lakes, between which, and surrounded by the beautiful and fairy-like groves I have mentioned, there are several green grassy lawns and openings, which lend to the scenery a charm and a fascina- tion more like that which the imagination ascribes to the eflfect of enchantment, or the creations of a beautiful dream, than the pre- .sentations of reality. The soil of this rolling country is rich and liighly fertile, where there is any moisture to sustain vegetation. Our course continued nearly south, until we reached and entered anotlier deep ra^^ne or gorge, down which runs a small stieam of water, in a direction nearly west. After proceeding down tliis ravine a few miles, the elevated mountain walls on both sides of the streav.i, at the foot of which immense granite rocks raise their impassable forms, approach each other so nearly as to form a caflon, to avoid which the trail winds up and down the side of the mountain, over and under steep Drecipices and impending cliffs. TROUBLESOME ENEMIES. Our progress during the entire day, owing to the obstructions in our rouie, has been slow. A little before five o'clock, p. m., after having labored up to the summit of the mountain, we commenced its descent again. I left our party here, riding on as rapidly as I could, or rather plunging down the steep side of the moimtain, 'm order to find and select an encampment for the night. About a mile, after I had reached the foot of the moun- tain, I found a small opening in the timber, with an easy access to the stream, but deficient in grass, and here, there being no better spot in view, 1 concluded to encamp for the night. I had not remained long m this place before two or three of the pack-mules came rushing towards me, with their packs much disarranged, snorting with excitement, and smoking with perspiration. Others soon came following after them. In the same condition. Not being able to account for this singular excitement of the mules, after waiting a few moments, I started back to meet the party, and ascertain what had occui'red since I left them to produce so much irregularity in our usual order of march. I met one of them near the foot of the mountain. In response to my inquiries, he said that in descending the mountain they had been attacked by a numerous swarm of yellow hornets, which, stinging the mules, they became frantic with pain and imcontrollable ; and rushing down the momitain and through timber and brush, in order to force their venomous assailants to leave them, some of their riders had been thrown, and the baggage had been so much scattered that considerable time had been required to recover it. The party, with most of the baggage, soon came up, and we moved on to our camp. Some of them had their clothes much torn, by the mules, on which they were mounted, rusliing into the thick brush. After we had encamped I crossed the stream, which has a very rocky bed, to ascertain if there was any convenient spot where the grazing would be better for our mules. I found; about a mile distant, two openings in the timber of the bottom, in which the grass was green and rank. Returning to camp and assisted by McClary, (no other member of the party volun Veering,) we drove the mules across the stream, and after picket 20'^ 834 HUMAN REMAINS. ing them ji the tall grass, and kindling a good fire from some dead logs of fallen timber, for their protection, we bivouacked among them in the opening for the night. The timber sur- rounding the circular space which we occupied is very tall. The bright blaze of our fire defined indistinctly the columnar shapes of the pines, and their overarching branches. Fancy soon pictured our residence for the night a spacious gothic temple, whose walls had mouldered away, lea-\dng the pillars and the skeleton roof, through which the bright stars were twinkling, standing, in defiance of the assaults of time and the fury of the elements. The temperature of the evening is de- lightful, and the sky serene and cloudless. One of our party this moniing picked up a human skull near the trail. Some xmfortunate emigrant, probably, had been in- terred near the spot, and, being exhumed by the Indians or wolves, tliis was a portion of his skeleton. I saw large numbers of pheasants during our march to-day, and shot one with my pistol wliile riding along. Raspberries, and a small, bitter cherry, have been quite abundant in places. Distance 25 mUes. CHAPTER XVIII. Bear Valley — Provisions exhausted — California quail — Manzanita — The pine-nut — Deep hollow — Evergreen oak — First view of the Sacramento Valley — A body of California Indians — Live-oak acorns — Arrive at John- son's — Indian dandy — Cheering and astonishing news from Mexico — Obtain food — A Califoniian newspaper. August 27. — A slight frost was perceptible on the grass this morning. We dtjscended the stream, on wliich we were en- camped, several miles, keeping generally in sight of it, and passing around sevcril canoncs by climbing, with much difficulty, the steep sides of the niouritains. We leaclied at last a canon of several miles in length, aiound which it was impossible to BEAR VALLEY- -NOTHING TO EAT. 235 pass without ascending to tlie summit of the steep and rocky ridge. Passing from this ridge, in a southwest coiirse, we crossed a valley in which there is a small lake. From this lake we returned back to the ridge again, along which we travelled over a very rocky and difficult road, through tall and dense timber, imtil thi-ee o'clock, p. m., when we reached a narrow place, so steep on both sides and so sharp on the top that our mules could with difficulty stand upon it. The emigrant wagons of last year were let down this preci- pice, on the northern side, with ropes. With considerable difficulty we got our mules down it. A descent of two miles brought us into a handsome, fertile valley, five or six miles in length, and varying from one to two in breadth. This is called " Bear Valley." Vegetation is very luxuriant and fresh. In ad- dition to the usual variety of grasses and some flowers, I noticed large patches of wild peas. We found a small stream winding through it, bordered by clumps of willows. We encamped near this rivulet of the lonely mountain-vale, vmder some tall pines. Here was cooked the last of our flour. A pint of rice, a skin or scrap of rancid bacon, weighing a half-pound, and some cof- fee, (our sugar ha\ing been exhausted for two weeks,) compose our stock of provisions for the residue of our journey. The truly impoverished condition of our larder produced a slight sensation of uneasiness and regret. But a hope that we were not far from the settlements ; a huge, blazing fire, made of the dry pine logs, flashing its cheerful fight over om* camp ; the peaceful and holy serenity of the scenery, illuminated by the rays of the waxing moon shining with brilliant splendor from the vaporless blue arch of the heavens, soon dispelled all unpleasant forebodings in regard to the future. We flushed, in the course of the day's march, several flocks of the California quail or partridge. It is nut so large as the quail of the Atlantic. Its plumage is dai-k and glossy, and it has a small tuft or crown of feathers on its head. It is a most graceful and beautiful bird. There has been but little variation in the growth of timber. A few oaks have exhibited them- selves among the pines, firs,, and cedars. We have met occa- 236 MANZANITA — STBBP HOLLOW. sionaliy with a reddish berry called by the Califomians, Titamo' nita, (little apple.) The berry is produced by small trees which stand in clumps, about ten or twelve feet in height, shedding their bark annually, leaving a smooth red surface. The flavor of the fruit is an agreeable acid, something Hke that of our ap- ple. The burrs of the pine, which have fallen to the ground, are sometimes twelve inches in length, and contain a nut, [pinon,) which, although it is said to be nutritious, is not agreeable to the taste. A shrub, which growing in our gardens is called the wax- berry, I saw in several places to-day. The signs of the grisly bear and of the deer have been numerous since we crossed the Pass of the Sierra Nevada, but not one of these animals has been seen on this side. Distance 24 miles. August 28. — A cup of cofiee without sugar constituted our breakfast. Our march to-day has been one of great fatigue, and almost wholly without incident or interest. During the forenoon we were constantly engaged in rising and descending the sides of the high mountain ranges, on either hand of the stream, to avoid the canones, deep chasms and ravines, and immense ledges of granite rocks, with which the narrow valley is choked. In the afternoon we travelled along a high ridge, sometimes over elevated peaks, with deep and fiightful abysses yawning their darkened and hideous depths beneath us. About five o'clock, I'. M., by a descent so steep for a mile and a half, that ourselves and our animals slid rather than walked down it, we entered a small hollow or ravine, which we named " Steep Hollow." A gurgling brook of pure cold water runs through it over a rocky bed. In the hollow there was about a quarter of an acre of pietty good grass, and our mules soon fed this down to its roots, without leaving a blade standing. Having noiliing else to do, we made large fires of the dead oak timber that had been cut down by the emigrants of pre- vious years, for tlie purpose of subsisting their animals upon its foliage. A cup of cofl"(;e witliout sugar, was our supper. The oak timber has been more plentiful to-day than yester- day. TIh' pines, firs, and cedars maintain their majestic dimen- sions. Our animals are mucli e.\tiausled. The road has been DISAGREEABLE BREAKFAST. 237 exceedingly difficult, and consequently our progress has been slow. Distance 20 miles. August 29. — The morning was clear and severely cold. The keen atmosphere, as soon as I threw. off my blankets, just be- fore daylight, produced an aguish sensation that I have not previously felt on the journey. The depth and consequent dampness of our encampment, probably, was one cause of this affection. Our physical exhaustion from incessant labor, and the want of adequate nourishment, was another. Nuttall, a young gentleman of our mess, of fine intelligence and many interesting and amiable qualities of mind and heart, feeling, as we all did, the faintness, if not the pangs of hunger, insisted that if we would delay the commencement of our day's mai-ch a sliort time, he would prepare a soup from the rancid bacon-skins remaining in our piovision-sack. In compliance with his request, the camp-kettle was placed on the fire, and the scraps placed in it, and in about fifteen minutes the soup was declared to be made. We gathered around it, with high expectations of a repast, under the circumstances, of gieat rich- ness, and a high, if not a delicate flavor. But a single spoon- ful to each seemed to satisfy the desires of the whole party for this kind of food, if it did not their appetites. It produced a nausea that neither hunger nor philosophy could curb or resist. We rose from the deep hollow of our encampment by a very steep ascent, and mounting the high ridges once more, con- tinued along them nearly the whole day, in a general south- west course. The mountains have not been so rugged or so ele- vated to-day, but have approximated nearer the dimensions and features of hills, and we have found less difficulty in our pro- gress over them. This change in the physical formation of the surface of the country, cheered us with the hope that we should obtain a view of the valley of the Sacramento before night. But as we ascended elevation after elevation, with anticipations of a prospect so gratifying, our hopes were as often disappointed by a succession of hills or mountains lising one after another beyond us. We crossed, near the close of our day's march, one or two 238 PINB NUT EXHAUSTED MULB. small valleys or bottoms cimbered with evergreen oaks, {Quer cus Hex,) giving them the appearance of old apple-orchards. The shape and foliage of this oak, previous to minute examina- tion, presents an exact resemblance of the apple-tree. The channels of the ■water-courses running through these valleys were dry, and the grass parched and dead. A plant having a yellow flower, dispensing a strong and agreeable aromatic odor, perfumed the atmosphere in many places. Some berries, but not very abundant or pleasant to the taste, were observed. We saw in a number of places, ladders erected by the Indians, for climbing the pine-trees to gather the nuts, and the poles used for the same purpose. An Indian was seen, but he ran from us with great speed, disappearing behind the forest-trees. Some hares and a fox were started, and a hare was killed by one of the party. One of our pack-mules became so exhausted this afternoon, that she refused to proceed. After stripping and vainly trying various expedients to urge her along, I haltered her with a tight noose around the nose, and fastening the end of the rope to the horn of my saddle, dragged her into camp. She had performed such faitliful service, tliat 1 could not leave her to perish of hunger and thirst, or to be devoured by the wolves of the wilderness. The feet of all our mules are very tender, and they move with much apparent pain. We encamped at five o'clock in a ravine, half a mile to the left of the trail, where we found some small pools of water and a little dead grass in their vicinity. A soup of the hare killed on our march to-day, con- stituted our supper and only meal for two days. Distance 25 miles. August 30. — The temperature this morning was pleasant, and the atmosphcie perfectly clear and calm. We commenced our march early, determined, if possible, to force our way out of the mountains and to reach Johnson's, the nearest settle- ment in the A-alley of Sacramento, about 40 miles, above or north of Sutter's Fort, before we encamped. After travelling some three or four miles rising and descend- ing a numoer of hills, from the summit of one more elevated FIRST VIEW OF SACRAMENTO VALLEY. 239 than the others surrounding it, the spacious valley of the Sacra mento suddenly burst upon my view, at an apparent distance of fifteen miles. A broad line of timber running through the centre of the valley indicated the course of the main river, and smaller and fainter lines on either side of this, winding through the brown and flat plain, marked the channels of its tributaries. 1 contemplated this most welcome scene with such emotions of pleasure as may be imagined by those who have ever crossed the desert plains and mountains of western America, until Jacob, who was in advance of the remainder of the party, came within the reach of my voice. I shouted to him that we were "out of the woods" — to pull ofi" his hat and give three cheers, so loud that those in the rear could hear them. Very soon the huzzas of those behind were ringing and eclioing through the hills, valleys, and forests, and the whole party came up with an exuberance of joy in their motions and depicted upon their countenances. It was a moment of cordial and heartfelt con- gratulations. Taking a direct course west, in order to reach the valley at the nearest point, we soon struck a small horse-trail, which we followed over low gravelly hills with grassy hollows between, timbered with the evergreen oak, forming in many places a most invitmg landscape. About one o'clock we discovered at the distance of half a mile, a number of men, apparently twenty or thirty. Some of them were dressed in white shirts and pantaloons, with the Mexican sombrero, or broad-brim hat, others were nearly naked and resembled the Indians we had frequently seen on the eastern side of the Sierra. They had evidently discovered us before we saw them, for they seemed to be in great commotion, shouting and running in various dhections. Some of our party suggested that they might be a body of Mexican soldiers stationed hei-e for the purpose of op- posuig the entrance of tlie emigrants into California, a conjec- lui-e that seemed i-easonable, under the probable existuig relations between Mexico and the United States. However, upon a careful examination I coula not discover that they had any armsj and fell pretty well assured from then- movements, that they 240 INDIANS EL CAPITAN ACORNS. were not an organized body of soldiers. But halting until tiie whole party came up, I requested them to see tliat all their pieces were charged and capped, which being done, we moved forward to the point (a small grove of oaks on a gentle eleva- tion) where the most numerous body of the strange men were concentrated. We rode up to them, at the same time holding out oiu- hands in token of friendship, a signal which they re ciprocated immediately. They were evidently very much rejoiced to find that we had no hostile designs upon them. With the exception of tAvo half- breed Spaniards, they were Indians, and several of them con- versed in Spanish, and were or had been the servants of settlers in the valley. One of the half-breeds, of a pleasing and intelli- gant comitenance and good address, introduced us to their chief, (El Capitan,) and wished to know if we had not some tobacco to give him. I had a small quantity of tobacco, about half of which I gave to the chief, and distributed the residue among the party as far as it would go. I saw, however, that the chief divided liis portion among those who received none. El Capitan was a man of about forty-five, of large frame and great apparent muscular power, but his countenance was heavy, dull, and melancholy, manifesting neither good humor nor in- telligence. His long, coarse, and matted hair fell down upon his slioulders m a most neglected condition. A faded cotton handkerchief was tied around his head. I could see none of the ornaments of royalty upon him, but his clothing was much in- ferior to that of many of his party, who I presimie had obtained theirs by laboring for the white settlers. Many of them were in a state of nudity. We soon learned from them that they were a party engaged in gathcnng acorns, which to these poor Indians are what wheat and maize are to us. They showed us large quantities in their baskets under the trees. When dried and pulverized, the flour of the acorn is made into bread or mush, and is then- " staft" of life." It is their chief article of subsistence in this section of California. Tlieir luxuries, such as bull-beef smd horsc-mcat, they t btain by theft, (»r pay for in labor at exor- Johnson's settlement, 241 bitant rates. The aconi of California, from the evergreen oak, (Quercus Ilex,) is much larger, more oil}-, and less bitter than on the Atlantic side of the continent. In fruitful seasons the ground beneath the trees is covered with the nuts, and the In- dians have the pi'ovidence, when the produce of the oak is thus plentiful, to provide against a short crop and the famine which must necessarily residt to them from it, by laying up a supply greater than they will consume in one year. We inquired the distance to the residence of Mr. Johnson. They made signs indicating that it was but a short distance. After some little delay we prevailed upon one of them who was naked, by promising him a reward, to accompany us as oiu' guide. He conducted us safely, in about an hour and a half, to the house of Mr. Johnson, situated on Bear creek, a tributary of the Rio de los Plumas, near the edge of the valley of the Sacramento. The house of Mr. Johnson is a small building of o two rooms, one- half constructed of logs, the other of adobes or sim-dried bricks. Several pens made of poles and pickets sur- round the house. A buildmg of any kind, inhabited by civilized beings, was almost a curiosity to us. Some of our party, when about a mile distant, fancied from something white which they saw in the door, resembling at a distance the shape of a woman clad in light garments, that it was Mrs. Johnson, who would be there to welcome them with all the hospitaUty of an American lady. Great was their disappointment, however, when they came in front of the door, to find it closed. A light frame with a raw-hide nailed upon it, was the construction of the door. The central portion of the raw-hide was white, the natural color of the animal from which it had been taken, and into this melted the graceful figure, and the welcome coimtenance of the white woman in white. Mr. Johnson was not at home, and the house was shut up. This we learned from a little Indian, the only human object we could find about the premises ; he intimated by signs, however, that Mr. Johnson would return when the Sim set. We encamped under some trees in front of the house, re- solved to do as well as we could, in our half-famiahed cond^' 21 242 WHEAT MILK GREAT NEWS. tion, until Mr. J. returned. In looking around the place, w« saw where a quantity of wheat had been threshed, consequently there should be flour' in the house. In one of the pens there were several young calves, showing conclusively that theie must be milk. There was a small attempt at gardening, but no vegetables visible. We tried to prevail upon the Indian to brinof us some flour, but the little heathen shook his head, either not understanding us or signifying that he could not get at it. We then made him comprehend that we wanted milk, and after showing him a bright -colored cotton handkerchief, he demanded our bucket and started with it after the cows. They were brought to the pen where the calves were confined, and one of them being fastened by the horns with a raw-hide rope, the calf was admitted to her to keep her gentle during the pro- cess of milking. Our bucket was nearly filled with rich milk, and this, with a cup of cofi'ee, took off the edge of our hunger. In the mean time we performed our ablutions in the creek, and having shed our mueh-worn clothing, we presented most of it to the naked Indian who acted as our guide. He was soon clad in a complete suit from head to feet, and strutted about with a most dandified and self-satisfied air. A small pocket looking-glass completed his happiness. He left us with a bun- dle of rags mider his arms, nearly overjoyed at his good luck. At sunset the dogs about the house began to bark most vo- ciferousl}', and 'ran ofi" over a gentle lise of ground to the north. Two men on horseback soon made their appearance on the rising ground, and, seeing us, rode to our camp. They were two Franco-Americans, originally from Canada or St. Louis, who had wandered to California in some trapping expedition, and had remained in the country. Tliey were arranging to build houses and settle permanently in this neighborhood. From them we learned the giatifying intelligence, that the whole of Upper California was in possession of (he United States. Intelligence, they further stated, had been received, tiiat General Taylor, after having met and defeated the Mexican forces in four pitched battles, killing an incredible number, some forty or fifty thou- Bund, had triumphantly marched into the city of Mexico. The VSE OF TAL-OW YANKEE RANCHERO. 243 ast part of this news, of course, judging from the situation of General Taylor when we left the United States, (war not having then been declared,) was impossible ; but sifting the news and comparing One statement with another, the result to our minds was, that General T. had been eminently successful, defeating the Mexicans, whenever he had met them, with considerable slaughter. This, of course, produced much exultation and en- thusiasm among us. We informed the two gentlemen, that we were and had been for some time entirely destitute of provisions, and were in a state bordering upon starvation. One of them immediately started off at a gallop to his cabin not far distant, and soon returned with a pan of unbolted flour and some tallow to cook it with. This, he said, was all he had, and if such had not been the case, he would have brought us something more. But we could not comprehend the use of tallow in cooking. We, how- ever, afterwards learned that beef-tallow in California is used for culinary purposes in the same manner that hog's-lard is with us ; and, on the whole, the prejudice against it being done away with by habit, I do not know that the former is not pref- erable to the latter — so much does habit and prejudice enter mto the account and make up the sum of our likes and dishkes. We felt very grateful to this gentleman for his opportune pres- ent, for he would receive no compensation for it ; and the fires were immediately blazing to render his generous donation of practical benefit. Mr. Johnson returned home about nine o'clock. He was originally a New England sailor, and cast upon this remote coast by some of the vicissitudes common to those of his calling had finall)^ turned farmer or ranchero. He is a bachelor, with Indian servants, and stated that he had no food piepared for us, but such as was in the house was at our service. A pile of small cheeses^ and numerous pans of milk with thick cream upon them, were exhibited on the table, and they disappeared with a rapidity dangerous to the health of those who consumed them. Mr. J. gave us the first number of the first newspaper ever 844 CALIFORNIA NEWSPAPER ANNEXATION. published in California, entitled " The Californian," and pab- fished and edited at Monterey by Dr. Robert Semple, a native Kentuckian. It was dated about two weeks back. From the columns of this small sheet we gleaned some farther items of general intelligence from the United States, all of great interest to us. The leading paragraph, under the editorial head, was, in substance, a call upon the people of California to set about the organization of a territorial grovernment, with a view to iia- mediate annexation to the United States. This seemed and sounded very odd. We had been travelling in as straight a line as we could, crossing rivers, mountains, and deserts, nearly four months beyond the bounds of civilization, and for the greater distance beyond the boundaries of territory claimed by our government; but here, on the remotest confines of the world as it were, where we expected to visit and explore a foreign country, we found ourselves under Ameiican authority, and about to be " annexed" to the American Union. Events such as this are very remarkable, and are well calculated tc excite the pride and vanity, if they do not always tally with the reason and judgment, of American citizens and republicans Distance 17 miles. CHAPTER XIX. Soil of JohiiBon's rancho — His crops — Price of flour — Soil of the Sacra- mento valley — Sinclair's rancho — A white woman — Sutter's Fort — Now Hflvptia — Interview with Captain Sutter — Reflections upon our journey — Table of distances from Independence to San Francisco. August 31. — The soil of the bottom-land of Mr. Johnson's rancho appears to be foitile and productive of good crops. He settled here last October A small wheat-field, although the season was not regarded as a good one, produced him 300 bushels, an average of 25 or 30 bushels to the acre. In addi- tion to tkis he raised a crop of barley, the kernel of which ie PRICE OF FLOUR — SACRAMENTO VALLEY. 245 the largest I have ever previously seen. I saw com standiug in the field, but it did not look promising, — the ground was evi- dently too dry for it. We procured of Mr. Johnson a quantity of unbolted flour at the rate of $8 per 100 lbs. ; also some fresh beef, cheese, and butter, (the last three luxuries, which we had not for a long time tasted.) At 1 o'clock we marched south seven miles, and encamped on the bank of a chain of small ponds of water. The grass around the ponds was rank and green, and we were pro- tected from the hot rays of the afternoon sun by the shade of evergreen oaks. This oak, which is the prevailing timber in the valleys of Upper California, although it much resembles the live-oak of Florida, is not precisely the same species. It is much more porous and brittle. We saw on the plain several flocks of antelope, one of which numbered at least two hundred. A spe- cies of the jackal, called here the coyote, frequently approached within a few rods of us. Large numbers of wild ducks were flying about and swimming in the ponds. We shot several of these. Distance 7 miles. September 1. — A clear, pleasant morning. We took a south course down the valley, and at 4 o'clock, p. m., reached the resi- dence of John Sinclair, Esq., on the Rio de los Americanos, about two miles east of Sutter's Fort. The valley of the Sacra- mento, as far as we have travelled down it, is from 30 to 40 miles in width, from the foot of the low benches of the Sierra Nevada, to the elevated range of hills on the western side. The composition of the soil appears to be such as to render it highly productive, with proper cultivation, of the small grains. The ground is trodden up by immense herds of cattle and horses which grazed here early in the spring, when it was wet and apparently miry. We passed through large evergreen oak groves, some of them miles in width. Game is very abundant. We frequently saw deer feeding quietly one or two hundred yards from us, and large flocks of antelopes. Mr. Sinclair, with a number of horses and Indians, was en- gaged in threshing wheat. His crop this year, he informed me, would be about three thousand bushels. The soil of his 21* 246 SINCLAIR S RIO LOS Ai^ERICAMOS. rancho, situated in the bottom of the Rio de los Americanos, just above its junction with the Sacramento, is highly fertile. Hia wheat-fields are secured against the numerous herds of cattle and horses, which constitute the largest item in the husbandry of this country, by ditches about five feet in depth, and four or five feet over at the surface. The dwelling-house and out- houses of Mr. Sinclair, are all constructed after American models, and present a most comfortable and neat appearance. It v.•a^ a pleasant scene, after having travelled many months in the wil- derness, to survey this abode of apparent thrift and enjoyment, resembling so nearly those we had left in the far-off country behind us. In searching for the ford over the Rio de los Americanos, in order to proceed on to Sutter's Fort, I saw a lady of a graceful though fragile figure, dressed in the costume of our own coun- trywomen. She was giving some directions to her female ser- vants, and did not discover me until I spoke to her and inquired ihe position of the ford. Her pale and dehcate, but handsome and expressive countenance, indicated much surprise, produced by my sudden and unexpected salutation. But collecting her- self, she replied to my inquiry in vernacular English, and the sounds of her voice, speaking our own language, and her civil- ized appearance, were highly pleasing. This lady, I presume, was Mrs. Sinclair, but I never saw her afterwards. Crossiner the Rio de los Americanos, the waters of which, at this season, are quite shallow at the ford, we proceeded over a •well-beaten road to Sutter's Fort, arriving there when the sun was about an hour and a half high. Riding up to the front gate I saw two Indian sentinels pacing to and fro before it, and several Americans, or foreigners, (as all who are not Califor- nians b}' birth are here called,) sitting in the gateway, dressed in buckskin j)antaloons and blue sailors' shirts with white stars worked on the collars. I inquired if Captain Sutter was in the fort ? A very small man, with a peculiarly sharp red face and t most voluble tongue, gave the response. He was probably a corporal. He said in substance, that perhaps I was notawarr of the great changes which had recently taken place in Califor' CAPTAIN SUTTER — CIVILIZATION 247 nia ; — that the fort now belonged to the United States, and that Captain Sutter, although he was in the fort, had no con- trol over it. He was going into a minute history of the compli- cated circumstances and events which had produced this result, when I reminded him that we were too much fatigued to hsten to a long discourse, but if Captain Sutter was inside the walls, and could conveniently step to the gate a moment, I would be glad to see him. A lazy-looking Indian with a ruminating countenance, after some time spent in parleying, was dispatched with my message to Captain Sutter. Capt. S. soon came to the gate, and saluted us with much gentlemanly courtesy, and friendly cordiality. He said that events had transpired in the country, which, to his deep regret, had so far deprived him of the control of his own property, that he did not feel authorized to invite us inside of the walls to re- main. The fort, he said, was occupied by soldiers, under the pay of the U. S., and commanded by Mr. Kern. I replied to him, that although it would be something of a novelty to sleep under a roof, after our late nomadic life, it was a matter of small consideration. If he would supply us with some meat, a little salt, and such vegetables as he might have, we neither asked nor desired more from his hospitality, which we all knew was Uberal, to the highest degree of generosity. A servant was immediately dispatched with orders to furnish us with a supply of beef, salt, melons, onions, and tomatoes, for which no compensation would be received. We proceeded im- mediately to a grove of live-oak timber, about two miles west of the fort, and encamped within a half a mile of the Sacramento river. Our fires were soon blazing brightly, added to the light of which was the brilliant effulgence of tlie moon, now near its full, clothing the tree-tops, and the far-stretching landscape, with a silvery hght ; and rendering our encampment far more agreeable to me than the confined walls of any edifice erected bv human hands. With sincere and devout thankfulness I laid myself on my hard bed, to sleep once more within the boundaries of civiliza- ti'in. Since we left our homes none of our party have met with 948 TABLE OF DISTANCES, ETC. any serious accidents or disasters. With the small number ol only nine men, we have travelled from Fort Laramie to Sutter's Fort, a distance of nearly 1700 miles, over trackless and barren deserts, and almost impassable mountains ; through tribes of savage Indians, encoimtering necessarily many difficulties, and enduring great hardships and privations ; and here we all are, in good health, with the loss of nothing materially valuable be- longing to us, except a single animal, which gave out from fatigue, and was left on the road. We have had no quarrels with Indians, rendering it necessary in self-defence to take their lives ; but on the contrary, whenever we have met them on our journey, by our deportment towards them, their friendship has been conciliated, or their hostility softened and disarmed, with- out striking a blow. We uniformly respected then- feelings and their rights, and they respected us. Resvdts so favorable as these, to expeditions constituted as was ours, and acting under such circumstances, are not often recorded. Distance 28 miles. Table of distances from Independence, Missouri, to Sutter s Fort, on the Sacramento river. Upper California. The following is a table of distances from Independence to Sutter's Fort, in California, by the route which I travelled, according to the daily estimate >f our marches. From Independence, Mo., to Fort Laramie, 672 miles. From Fort Laramie to " Pacific Springs," (South Pass,) 311 " From the " South Pass," (Pacific Springs,) to Fort Bridger, 133 " From Fort Bridger to Salt Lake, 106 " From Salt Lake to Mary's river, 315 " Down Mary's river to the " Sink," 274 " From llie " Sink" to Truckee Lake, 134 " From Triicki'e Lake to .lohuson's, Ill " From Johnson's to Sutter's Fort, 35 " Total distance from Independence, Mo., lo Sutter's Fort, in California, 2091 The distance from Sutter's Fort by land, to the town of San I'runci.sco, (via the Puebia of Sau Jose,) ■oar the month of the Bay of S. F., and five miles from the Pacific Ocean, is 200 " Total, 2291 miioi. THB OREGON EMIGRAMTS. 249 CHAPTER XX. Acoount of the disasters to the emigrating parties of 1846 — The Oregon emi- grants — Causes of delay which resulted in fatal consequences — Generosity of the people of San Francisco, and Capt. Sutter — John Sinclair's state- ment — Dreadful sufferings of the first party who crossed on the snows — George McKinstry's statement — Journal of one of the sufTerers — List of those who perished — Particulars of the death of George Donner and wife — Keysburgh's cannibalism — Interment of the bones by Gen. Kearney's party in June, 1847. Having accomplished the journey from the United States to the ci\'ilized districts of Upper California, it is proper that I shoidd give some accotmt of those with whom I started and travelled a portion of the distance. The great bulk of the emigration of 1846 both to California and Oregon took the old routes of former emigrating parties The company of Capt. West on Mary's river had a difficulty and a fight with a large party of Digger Indians. In this en- comiter a Mr. Sallee lost his hfe from a wound by a poisoned arrow. Mr. Lippincott was wounded in the knee, but he re- covered. With this exception all of these, I believe, reached their destination in safety and in good season. A party consisting of some sixty or eighty wagons bound for Oregon, among whom were the Messrs. Putnam of Lexington, Ky., took the new route to the Wilhamette valley, explored by Mr. Applegate and his party, whom we met on Mary's river. This company became entangled in the Umpqua moimtains, (not very distant from the settlements of Oregon,) and after suffering great hardships, were compelled to abandon all their wagons and baggage. With the aid of parties sent for their relief from the Wilhamette valley, nearly all of them, however, reached their destination. Mr. Newton, whom I have pre^•iously mentioned, was murdered by some Indians. They professed to be friendly and loitered about Mr. N.'s camp. He suspected 250 INDIAN HURDFP them of hostile intentions and ordered them away. They how- ever managed to secure some powder and balls, and availing themselves of a moment when Mr. N., being worn out with watching, had fallen asleep outside of his tent, they shot three balls into him. He sprang into the tent to secure his rifle, but was seized by one of his assailants, who with an axe nearly sev- ered one of his legs. He died of his wounds the next day. Mrs. N. escaped. The Indians robbed the tent of all its porta- ble contents. The number of wagons which took the new route from Fort Bridger via the south end of the Great Salt Lake, in- tersecting with the old wagon- trail on Mary's river 250 miles above the Sink, was about eighty. The advance company of these was Mr. Harlan's. The pioneers, and those following their trail, succeeded by energetic exertions in opening a ro^ through the difficult mountain passes near the Salt Lake, and reached the settlements of California in good season. The rear party, known as Messrs. Reed and Donner's company, did not follow the trail of those who had preceded them, but ex- plored for a portion of the distance, another route, and opened a new road through the Desert Basin. In making these explo- rations and from other causes, they lost a month's time, the consequence of which was, that they did not reach the Pass of the Sierra Nevada untU the 31st of October, when they should have been there by tlie 1st of October. The snow commenced falling on the Sierra, two or three weeks earlier in 1846 than is usual, and when this party arrived at the foot of the Pass they found it impossible to proceed from its depth. Tlie people of the town of San Francisco, as soon as they received intelligence of the dangerous situation of these emigrants, held a public meeting, and with a liberaUty that re- flects the higluist credit upon them, subscribed fifteen hundred dollars for the organization of a party that would penetrate the mountains for their relief. This party started, and soon after- wards other parties under the direction of the naval command- ant at the Port of San Francisco, were organized for the same object Capt J. A. Suj tku, a philanthropist in its most ex- i STATEMENT OF JOHN SINCLAIR. 251 presshe and least ostentatious sense, displayed his character- istic generosity and benevolence on this occasion. At his own expense and hazard, before other exertions were made, he furnished men and mules laden with provis'.ons for the relief of the perishing sufferers. The result of these exertions in behalf of the unfortimate emigrants, and the melancholy and in some respects horrible details of their sufferings, will be best vmder- stood by a perusal of the following extracts from authentic papers in my possession. They compose a chapter of human misery, for which there are but few parallels in fact or fiction. Statement of John Sinclair Esq., Alcalde. District of Sacramento. Rancho del Pabo, February, 1847. Dear Sir, — The following brief sketch of the sufferings of the emigrants who endeavored at different times to reach this valley from the mountains, where they had been caught by the snow in October, is drawn up at the request of the sur- vivors, with whom I have held several conversations on the subject, and from a few short notes handed me by W. H. Eddy, one of the party. Such as they are, and hastily thrown together, I place them at your disposal. On the first of November, Patrick Brin, Patrick Dolan, Keysburg, and W. H. Eddy, left their cabins, and attempted to cross the dividing ridge of the mountains ; but owing to the softness and depth of the snow, they were obliged to return. On the third they tried it again, taking with them Mrs. Reed and family, Mr. Stanton, and two Indians, who were in the em- ploy of J. A. Sutter ; but after being out one day and night, they returned to their cabins. On the twelfth, Mr. Graves, and two daughters, Messrs. Fosdick, Foster, Eddy, Stanton, Sheumacher, with two New Mexicans, and the two Indians, started on another trial, but met with no better success. Not discouraged, and impelled by the increasing scarcity of provisions at the cabins, on the twentieth they tried it again, and succeeded in crossing the divide ; but found it was impossible for them to proceed for the want of a pilot, Mr. Stanton having refused to allow the Indians to accompany them on account of not being able to bring the mules out with them, which Mr. Stanton had taken there with provisions from J. A. Sutter's, pre- vious to the falling of the snow. Here again were their warmest hopes blighted ; and they again turned with heavy hearts towards their miserable cabins. Mrs. Murphy, daughter, and two sons were of this party. During the interval between this last attempt and the next, there came on a storm, and the snow fell to the depth of eight feet. In the midst of the storm, two young men started to go to another party of emigrants, (twenty -four ia 252 STATEMENT OF JOHN SINCLAIR. Qumber,) distant about eight miles, who it was known at the commeacement of the storm had no cabins built, neither had they killed their cattle, as they still had hopes of being able to cross the mountains. As the two young men never returned, it is supposed they perished in the storm ; and it is the opinion of those who have arrived here, that the party to whom they were going must have all perished. On the sixteenth of December, expecting that they would be able to reach the settlements in ten days, Messrs. Graves, Fosdick, Dolan, Foster, Eddy, Stuiitou, L. Murphy, (aged thirteen,^ Antonio, a New Mexican ; with Mrs. Fosdick, Mrs. Foster, Mrs. Pike, Mrs McCutcheon, and Miss M. Graves, and the two Indians before mentioned having prepared themselves with snow-shoes, again started on their periloiu undertaking, determined to succeed or perish. Those who have ever made an attempt to walk with snow-shoes will be able to realize the difficulty they experienced. On first starting, the snow being so light and loose, even with their snow-shoes, they sank twelve inches at every step ; however, they succeeded in travelling about four miles that day. On the seventeenth they crossed the divide, with considerable difficulty and fatigue, making about five miles, the snow on the divide being twelve feet deep. The next day they made six miles, and, on the nineteenth five, it having snowed all day. On the twentieth tiie sun rose clear and beautiful, and cheered by its sparkling rays, they pursued their weary way. Frorr the first day, Mr. Stanton, it appears, could not keep up with them, but hac always reached their camp by the time they got their fire built, and prepara- tions made for passing the night. This day they had travelled eight miles, and encamped early ; and as the shades of evening gathered round them, many an anxious glance was cast back through tlie deepening gloom for Stanton ; but he came not. Before morning the weather became stormy, and at daylight they started and went about four miles, when they en- camped, and agreed to wait and see if Stanton would come up ; but that night his place was agaiu vacant by their cheerless fire, while he, I sup- pose, had escaped from all further sutFeriiig, and lay wrapped in his " wind- ing sheet of snow" — " His weary wand'nngs and Ins irarels o'er On the twouly-second the storm still continued, and they remained iu camp until the twenly-lliird, when they again started, although the storm Ktill continued, and travelled eight miles. They encamped in a deep valley Here the api)earaiico of the country was so diffijrent from what it had beer, rcprr'sentrd to them, (probably by Mr. Stanton,) that they came to the con- clusion that they were lost ; and the tv, j Indians on whom they had placed all their confidence, were bewildered. In this melancholy situation they con- sulted together, and concluded they would go on, trusting in Providence, rallHT than return to their -jiiserablo cabins. They were, also, at this time, ■ut of proviaious, and ijarlly agreed, with the exccptiou of Mr. Foster, the* JOHN Sinclair's statement. 253 in ease of necessity, they would cast lots who should die to preserve the re- mainder. During the whole of the night it rained and snowed very heavily, and by morning the snow had so increased that they could not travel ; while, to add to their sufferings, their fire had been put out by the rain, and all their endeavors to light another proved abortive. How heart-rendiug must have been their situation at this time, as they gazed upon each other, shivering and shrinking from the pitiless storm I Oh ! how they must have thought of those happy, happy homes, which but a few short months before they had left with buoyant hopes and fond antici- pations ! Where, oh where were the green and flowery plains which they had heard of, dreamt, and anticipated beholding, in the mouth of January, in CalifoTuia ? Alas I many of that little party were destined never to behold them. Already was death in the midst of them. Antonio died about nine, A. M. ; and at eleven o'clock, p. m., Mr. Graves. The feelings of the rest may be imagined, on seeing two of their small party removed by death in a few hoars from among them, while the thought must have struck home to every bosom, that they too would shortly follow. lu this critical situation, the presence of mind of Mr. Eddy suggested a plan for keeping themselves warm, which is common amongst the trappers of the Rocky Mountains, when caught in the snow without fire. It is sim- ply to spread a blanket on the snow, when the party, (if small,) with the exception of one, sit down upon it in a circle, closely as possible, their feet piled over one another in the centre, room being left for the person who has to complete the arrangement. As many blankets as necessary are then spread over the heads of the party, the ends being kept down by billets oi wood or snow. After every thing is completed, the person outside takes his place in the circle. As the snow falls it closes up the pores of the blankets, while the breath from the party underneath soon causes a comfortable warmth. It was with a great deal of difficulty that Mr. Eddy succeeded in getting them to adopt this simple plan, which undoubtedly was the means of saving their lives at this time. In this situation they remained thirty -six hours. On the twenty-fifth, about four o'clock, p. m., Patrick Dolau died ; he had been for some hours delirious, and escaped from under their shelter, when he stripped off his coat, hat, and boots, and exposed himself to the storm. Mr. Eddy tried to force him back, but his strength was unequal to the task. He, however, afterwards returned of his own accord, and laid down outside of their shelter, when they succeeded in dragging him inside On the twenty-sixth, L. Murphy died, he likewise being delirious ; and was only kept under their shelter by the united strength of the party. In the afternoon of this day they succeeded in getting fire into a dry pine- tree. Having been four entire days without food, and since the month of Octo- ber on short allowance, there was now but two alternatives left them — either to die, or preserve life by eating the bodies of the dead : slowly and reluc> tantly they adopted the latter alternative On the twenty-seventh th»j 22 254 JOHN Sinclair's statement. took the flesh from the bodies of the dead ; aud on that, sjid the two follow* mg days they remained in camp drying the meat, and preparing to pursue their journey. On the thirtieth they left this melancholy spot, where so many of their friends and relatives had perished ; and with heavy hearts and dark forebodings of the future, pursued their pathless course through ihe new-fallen snow, and made about five miles : next day about six miles. January first was one of the most fatiguing day's journeys which they had. They were compelled to climb a mountain, which they represent as nearly perpendicular; to accomplish which, they were obliged to take advantage of every cleft of rock, and pull themselves up by shrubs growing in the crevices. On the second they found they could go without snow-shoes, which, however, gave them but little relief ; their feet being so badly frozen by this time, that every step was marked with blood, and the toes of one of the Indians had dropped ofi'at the first joint. They were also again out of provisions. On the third they travelled seven miles, and at night fared on the strings of their snow-shoes. Some time during the night of the fourth, the Indians left them ; no doubt fearful to remain, lest they might be sacrificed for food. Poor fellows, they Btood the pangs of hunger two days longer than their white fellow-travellers before they tasted of the human flesh. On the morning of the fifth, the party took the trail of the Indians, following it by the blood which marked their steps. After having travelled about a mile, they discovered fresh footprints '■'" flpor in the snow, when Mr. Eddy, who had a rifle, started with Miss vj.uves, in advance, hoping to fall in with them, which they fortunately did, and succeeded in killing one, after travelling about eight miles, at the foot of a mountain. That night Mr. Foster and wife, Mrs. Pike, and Mrs. McCutcheon, encamped on the top of the mountain, not being able to get to where Eddy was with the deer. Mr. Fosdick having given out, re- mained with his wife about a mile back from them. On the next day they got what remained of the deer to the top of the mountain, and two of them went back to look for Fosdick ; but he was at that time " where the weary are at rest," having died about eleven o'clock, p. m. ; and his wife had laii by iiis side that lonesome night, and prayed that death might release hei from Bufibring, but in vain. The flesh was taken from the bores of jwor Fosdick, and brought inti camp ; but there was one there wh tasted not of it. Ou the seventh and eighth tlicy only made about two and a half miles, going down one moun tain and over another. Ou the ninth, after travelling four miles, they fell in with the two Indians, who hud thun got out of the snow. Salvador was dead. Lewis had crawled to a small stream of water, aud lain down to drink. They raised hiu) ui>, and ofFerod him some food ; he tried to eat, but could not ; aud only lived about an hour. Being nearly out of pro- risions, aud knowing not how far they might be from the settlemeuti, they Uwk their deHh likewiue J GEO. M*KINSTRy's LETTER. 265 Un the tenth and eleventh they made about seventeen miles, when falling In with an Indian trail, they concluded they would follow it, which they accordingly did ; and on the twelfth, fell in with some of the Indians, who treated them kindly, gave them some acorns, and put them on to another trail the next day, which they took, and after travelling four miles in a heavy rain-storm, they came to more Indians, with whom they stopped the remainder of that day and the next. The two next days they made about seventeen miles. The seventeenth, after walking two or three miles, with an Indian for a pilot, Mr. Foster and the women gave out, their feet beintj swollen to such a degree that they could go no further. Mr. Eddy, who it appears stood the fatigues of the journey better than any of them, here left them ; and assisted by two Indians, tiiat evening reached the settlement on Bear Creek. The inhabitants, on being informed of the situation of the party behind, immediately started with provisions on foot, and reached them that night about twelve o'clock. On the morning of the eighteenth, others started with horses, and brought them to the settle- ment, where they were treated with every mark of kindness by the mhabi- tanta. I remam, very respectfully, Your obd't servant, John Sinclair EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM MR. GEO. M'KINSTRY. Captain E. Kern informed you of the men sent up from this place to the assistance of the sufferers, when we were first informed of their situation. I will again give you a list of their names, as I think they ought to be re- corded in letters of gold. Aquila Glover, R. S. Montrey, Daniel Rhodes, John Rhodes, Daniel Tucker, Joseph Sel, and Edward Copymier. Mr. Glover, who was put in charge of this little, brave band of men, returns to me his journal, from which I extract as follows: — "On the 13th of February, 1847, our party arrived at the Bear River Valley. 14th, remained in camp, preparing packs and provisions. 15th, left Bear River Valley, and travelled fifteen miles, and encamped on Yuba river. 16th, travelled three miles, and stopped to make snow-shoes. 17th, travelled five miles, and camped on Yuba river — snow fifteen feet deep, dry and soft. 18th, travelled eight miles, and en- camped on the head of Yuba river. 19th, travelled nine miles, crossed the summit of the California mountains, and reached part of the sufForing com- pany about sundown, in camp near Truckee Lake." Mr. Glover informs me that he found them in a most deplorable condition, entirely beyond de- ■criptlon Ten of their number had already died from starvation ; and he thinks several others will die in camp, as they are too low to resuscitate. The whole party had been Uving on buUoek-bidea four weeks. On th« ;356 JOURNAL OF A SUFFERER. moraiiig of the 20th, the party went down to the camp of Geo. Donner eight miles below the first camp, and found them with but one hide left They had come to the conclusion, that when that was consumed, to dig up the bodies of those who had died from starvation, and use them as food. When the party arrived at the camp, they were obliged to guard the little stock of provision that they had carried over the mountains on their backs on foot, for the relief of the poor beings, as they were in such a starving condition that they would have immediately used up the small store. They even stole the buckskin strings from their snow-shoes, and ate them. This little, brave band of men immediately left with twenty-one persons, princi- pally women and childrea, for the settlements. They left all the food they could spare with those (twenty-nine in number) that they were obliged to leave behind, and promised them that they would immediately return to their assistance. They were successful in bringing all safe over the moun- tains. Four of the children they were obliged to carrj' on their backs, the balance walked. On their arrival at the Bear River Valley they met a small party with provisions, that Captain Kern, of this fort, had sent for their relief. The same day they met Mr. Reed with fifteen men, on foot, packed with provisions, who ere this have reached the suiFerers. Lieutenant Wood- worth was going ahead with a full force, and will himself visit them in their mountain camp, and see that every person is brought out. Mr. Greenwood was three days behind Mr. Reed, with the horses. Captain Kern will remain in camp, with the Indian soldiers, to guard the provisions and horses, and will send the sufferers down to this post as soon as possible, where they will be received by Captain J. A. Sutter with all the hospitality for which he is 80 celebrated. And in the mean time Captain Sutter will keep up a com- munication with Captain Kern's camp, so as to be in readiness to assist him on all occasions. Mr. Glover informed me that the wagons belonging to the emigrants are buried some fifteen feet under the snow He thinks that it will be some three weeks from this date before Lieutenant Woodvvorth can arrive al this fort. Mr. Glover left the party at Bear River Valley on express, as I had written to him, by the second party, of the death of one member of his family, and the severe illness of his wife. The balance of the party will reach here in some four or five days. The weather is very fine, and we have no doubt but that Lieutenant VVoodworth will be able to bring all left on the monntains. Copy of a Journal kept hy a suffering Emigrant on the California mouidains, from Oct. Zlst, 1846, to March \st, 1847. Trdoskk Lake, Nov. 20, 1846. — Came to this place on the 3 1st of last month ; went into the I'am, the snow bo deep we were unable to find the totA, aad when within throe miles from the summit, turned back to \iua JOURNAL OF •, SUFFERER. 257 ■hanty on Truckee Lake. Stanton came up one day after we ai rived here ; we again took our teams and wagons and made another unsuccessful attempt to cross in company with Stanton ; we returned to the shanty, it continuing to snow all the time. We now have killed most part of our cat- tle, having to remain here until next spring, and live on lean beef without bread or salt. It snowed during the space of eight days with little inter- mission, after our arrival here, though now clear and pleasant, freezing at night, the snow nearly gone from the valleys. — 21. Fine morning, wind N. w. ; twenty-two of our company about starting to cross the mountains this day, including Stanton and his Indians. — 22. Froze hard last night ; fine and clear lo-day ; no account from those on the mountains. — 23. Same weather, wind w. ; the expedition across the mountains returned af- ter an unsuccessful attempt. — 25. Cloudy, looks like the eve of a snow- storm ; our mountaineers are to make another trial to-morrow, if fair ; — froze hard last night. — 26. Began to snow last evening, now rains or sleets ; the party does not start to-day. — 29. Still snowing, now about three feet deep ; wind w. ; killed my last oxen to-day ; gave another yoke to Foster ;• wood hard to be got. — 30. Snowing fast, looks as likely to continue as when it commenced ; no living thing without wings can get about. Dec. 1. — Still snowing, wind w. ; snow about six or six and a half feet deep ; very difficult to get wood, and we are completely housed up ; our cattle all killed but two or three, and these, with the horses and Stanton's mules, all supposed to be lost in the snow ; no hopes of finding them alive. — 3. Ceased snowing ; cloudy all day ; warm enough to thaw. — 5. Beauti- ful sunshine, thawing a little ; looks delightful after the long storm ; snow seven or eight feet deep. — 6. The morning fine and clear ; Stanton and Graves manufacturing snow-shoes for another mountain scrabble ; no ac- count of mules. — 8. Fine weather, froze hard last night ; wind s. w. ; hard work to find wood sufficient to keep us warm or cook our beef. — 9. Com- menced snowing about 11 o'clock, wind n. w. ; took in Spitzer yesterday so weak, that he cannot rise without help, caused by starvation. Some have a scant supply of beef; Stanton trying to get some for himself and Indians; not likely to get much. — 10. Snowed fast all night with heavy squalls of wind ; continues to snow, now about seven feet in depth. — 13. Snows faster than any previous day ; Stanton and Graves, with several others, making preparations to cross the mountains on snow-shoes. Snow eight feet deep on a level. — 16. Fair and pleasant, froze hard last night ; the company started on snow-shoes to cross the mountains, wind s. e. — 17. Pleasant. Wm. Mur- phy returned from the mountain party last evening ; Balis Williams died night before last ; Milton and Noah started for Donner's eight days ago ; not returned yet ; think they are lost in the snow. — 19. Snowed last night, thawuig to-day, wind n. w. ; a little singular for a thaw. — 20. Clear and pleasant; Mrs. Reed here; no account from Milton yet; Charles Bergei set out for Dounei a ; turned back, unable to proceed ; tough times, but not 22* 258 JOURNAL OF A SUFFERER. discouraged ; our hopes are iu God, Amen. — 21. Milton got back last night from Donner's camp ; sad news, Jacob DoDuer, Samuel Shoemaker, Rhine- hart, and Smith, are dead the rest of them iu a low situation ; snowed all night with a strong s. w. wind. — 23. Clear to-day ; Milton took some of his meat away ; all well at their camp. Began this day to read the " Thirty days' prayers." Almighty God grant the requests of unsrorthy sinners I — 24. Rained all night and still continues ; poor prospect for any kind of com- fort, spiritual or temporal. — 25. Began to snow yesterday, snowed all night, and snows yet rapidly ; extremely difficult to find wood ; offered our pray- ers to God this Christmas moniing ; the prospect is appalling, but we trust iu Him. — 27. Cleared off yesterday, continues clear, snow nine feet deep ; wood growing scarce ; a tree when felled sinks into the snow and hard to be got at. — 30. Fine clear morning, froze hard last night ; Charles Berger died last evening about 10 o'clock. — 31. Last of the year ; may we, with the help of God, spend the coming year better than we have the past, which we propose to do if it is the will of the Alirighty to deliver us from our pre- sent dreadful situation, Amen. Morning fair but cloudy, wind e. by 8. ; looks like another snow-storm — snow-storms are dreadful to us ; the snow at present very deep. Jan. 1, 1847. — We pray the God of mercy to deliver us from our present calamity, if it be His holy will. Commenced snowing last night and snows a little yet ; provisions getting very scant ; dug up a hide from under ths snow yesterday — have not commenced on it yet. — 3. Fair during the day, freezing at night ; Mrs. Reed talks of crossing the mountains with her chil- dren. — 4. Fine morning, looks like spring ; Mrs. Reed and Virginia, Mil- ton Elliot, and Eliza Williams, started a short time ago with the hope of crossing the mountains ; left the children here — it was difficult for Mrs. Reed to part with them. — G. Eliza came back from the mountains yester- day evening, not able to proceed, the others kept abend. — 8. Very cold this morning ; Mrs. Reed and the others came back ; could not find the way on the other side of the mountains ; they have nothing but hides to live on. — 10. Began to snow last night, still continues ; wind w. n. w. — 13. Snowing fast — snow higher than the shanty ; it must be 13 feet deep; cannot get wood this morning ; it is a dreadful sight for us to look upon. — 14. Cleared off yesterday ; the sun shining brilliantly renovates our spirits, praises be to (ho God of heaven. — 15. Clear day again, wind n. w. ; Mrs. Murphy blind : Lantron not able to get wood, has but one axe between him aud Keysburg; it looks like another storm — expecting some account from Sutter's soon. — 17. Eliza WilliaruH came here this morning; Lantroti crazy last night; provisions scarce, Iiidcs our main subsistence. May the .\luiigl)ty send us help. — 21. Fine morning; Johr Battise and Mr Denton came this morn- ing with Eliza ; she will not ea< hides. Mrs. sent her hack to live or die on them. — 22. Began to snow after sunrise ; likely to continue ; wind y^. — 23. Blow hard aud snowed all night, the most severe storm we have JOURNAL OP A SUFFEKER. S69 experienced this winter ; wind w. — 26. Cleared up yesterday ; to-day fine and pleasant, wind s. ; in hopes we are done with snow-storms ; those who went to Sutter's not yet returned ; provisions getting scant ; people growing weak living on small allowance of hides. — 27. Commenced snowing yes- terday ; still continues to-day ; Lewis (Sutter's Indian) died three days ago; wood getting scarce ; don't have fire enough to cook our hides. — 30. Fair and pleasant, wind w., thawing in the sun ; John and Edward Breen went to Graves' this morning ; the seized on Mrs. goods, until they should he paid ; ttiey also took the hides which she and her family sub- sisted upon. She regained two pieces only, the balance they have taken. You may judge from this what our fare is in camp ; there is nothing to be had by hunting, yet perhaps there soon will be. — 31. The sun does not shine out brilliant this morning ; froze hard last night, wind N. w. Lantron Murphy died last night about 1 o'clock. Mrs. Reed went to Graves' this morning to look after goods. February 5. — Snowed hard until two o'clock last night ; many uneasy for fear we shall all perish with hunger ; we have but a little meat left and only three hides ; Mrs. Reed has nothing but one hide and that is on Graves' house ; Milton lives there and likely will keep that — Eddy's child died last night. — 6. It snowed faster last niglit and to-day than it has done this win- ter before, still continues without intermission, wind s. w. ; Murphy's folks and Keysburg say they cannot oat hides; I wish we had enough of them. Mrs. Eddy is very weak. — 7. Ceased to snow at last, to-day it is quite •»leasant. McCutcheon's child died on the second of this month. — 8. Fine clear morning, Spitzer died last night, we shall bury him in the snow. Mrs. Eddy died on the night of the seventh. — 9. Mr. Pike's child all but dead. Milton is at Murphy's notable to get out of bed ; Koy.sburg never gets up, says he is not able. Mrs. Eddy and child were buried to-day, wind s. e. — 10. Beautiful morning, thawing in the sun. Milton Elliot died last night at Murphy's shanty. Mrs. Reed went there this morning to see after his ef- fects. J. Denton trying to borrow meat for Graves ; had none to give ; they had nothing but hides. All are entirely out of meat but a little we have. Our hides are nearly all eat up, but with God's help spring will soon smile upon us. — 12. Warm, thawing morning. — 14. Fine morning, but cold ; buried Mil- ton in the snow. John Denton not well. — 15. Morning cloudy until nine o'clock, then cleared off warm. Mrs. refused to give Mrs. any hides ; put Sutter's pack-hides on her shanty and would not let her have them. — IG. Commenced to rain last evening and turned to snow du- ring the night and continued until morning ; weather changeable, sunshine then light shower^ of hail and wind at times. We all feel very unwell ; the snow is not getting much less at present. — 19. Froze hard last night, seven men arrived from California yesterday evening with provisions, but left the greater part on the way ; to-day it \s clear and warm for this region Smss of the men haye gone to Doaner's camp } they will start iwck oa 260 JOURNAL OF A SUFFERER. Monday. — 22. The Californians started this morning, twenty-four in nam* her, some in a very weak state. Mrs. Keysburg started with them and left Keysburg here unable to go ; buried Pike's child this morning irj the snow, it died two days ago. — 23. Froze hard last night, to-day pleasant and thawy ; has the appearance of epring, all but the deep snow ; wind s. s. e. ; shot a dog to-day and dressed his flesh. — 25. To-day Mrs. Murphy says the wolves are about to dig up the dead bodies around her shanty, and the nights are too cold to watch them, but we hear them howl. — 26. Hungiy times in camp ; plenty of hides, but the folks will not eat them ; we eat them with tolerable good appetite, thanks be to the Almighty God. Mrs. Murphy said here yesterday that she thought she would commence on Milton and eat him ; I do not think she has doue so yet — it is distressing ; the Donuer's told the California folks four days ago that they would commence on the dead people if they did not succeed that day or next in finding their cattle, then ten or twelve feet under the snow, and did not know the spot or near it ; they have done it ere this. — 28. One solitary Indian passed by yesterday, came from the Lake, had a heavy pack on his back, gave me five or six roots resembling onions in shape, tasted some like a sweet potato full of tough little fibres. March 1. Ten men arrived this morning from Bear Valley with provi ■ions; we are to start in two or three days and shall cache our goods here They say the snow will remain imtil June The above mentioned ten men started for the valley with seventeen of the sufferers ; they travelled fifteen miles and a severe snow-storm came on ; they left fourteen of the emigrants, the writer of the above journal and his family, and succeeded in getting in but three children. Lieut. Woodworth immediately went to their assistance, but before he reached them they had eaten three of their number, who had died from hunger and fatigue; the remainder Lieut. Woodworth's party brought in. On the 29th of April, 1847, the last member of that party was brought to Capt. Sutter's Fort: it is utterly impossible to give any description of the sutferings of the company Your readers can form some idea of them by perusing the above diary. Yours, &c. George McKinstrt, Jr. Fort Sacramento, April 29, 1847 Samea of the late Emigration from the United States, who voerefre' vented by the sniw from crossing the California mountains, October 3l8t, 1846 he walls. At this time the fort is manned by about fifty well- discipHned Indians, and ten or twelve white men, all imder the pay of the United States. These Indians are well clothed and fed. The garrison is xmder the command of Mr. Kern, the artist of Captain Fremont's exploring expedition. The number of laboiing Indians employed by Captain Suttei dming the seasons of sowing and hai-vest, is from two to three hundred. Some of these are clothed in shirts and blankets, but a large portion of them are entirely naked. They are paid 80 much per day for their labor, in such articles of merchan- dise as they may select from the store. Cotton cloth and handkerchiefs are what they most freely puj"chase. Common brown cotton cloth sells at one dollar per yard. A tin coin issued by Captain Sutter cii-culates among them, upon which is aSB INDIAN GAMBLING. stamped the nmnber of days that tlie holder has labored. ITiese stamps indicate the value in merchandise to which the laborer or holder is entitled. They are inveterate gamblers, and those who have been so fortunate as to obtain clothing, frequently stake md part with every rag upon their backs. The game which they most gen eraUy play is carried on as follows. Any number which may be concerned in it seat themselves cross-legged on the ground, in a circle. They are then divided into two parties, each of which has two champions or players. A ball, or some small article, is placed in the hands of the players on one side, which they transfer from hand to hand with such sleight and dexterity that it is nearly impossible to detect the changes. When the players holding the balls make a particu- lar motion with their hands, the antagonist players guess in which hand the balls are at the time. If the guess is wrong it coimts one in favor of the playing party. If the guess is right, then it counts one in favor of the guessing party, and the balls are transferred to them. The count of tlie game is kept with sticks. During the progress of the game, all concerned keep up a continual monotonous grunting, with a movement of their bodies to keep time with their grunts. The articles which are staked on the game are placed in the centre of the ring. The laboring or field Indians about the fort are fed upon the offal of slaughtered animals, and upon the bran sifted from the ground wheat. This is boiled in large iron kettles. It is then placed in wooden troughs standing in the court, around which the several messes seat themselves and scoop out with their hands this poor fodder. Bad as it is, they eat it with an appa- rent high reli.sh ; and no doubt it is more palatable and more healtiiy than the acorn, mush, or atdle, which constitutes the pnucipal food of these Indians in theii- wild state. 'J'lie wheat crop of Captain Sutter, the present year, (1846,) is about eifrht thousand bushels. The season has not been a favorable one. The average yield to the acre Captain S. esti- mates at twenty-five bushels. In favorable seasons this yield iH doubled ; and if we car oelicvt; the. statements often made . WHEAT — HEMP, ETC. 269 apon respectable authority, it is sometimes q^uadrupled. There is no doubt that in favorable seasons, that is when the raina fall abundantly during the winter, the yield of wheat, and all small grains in California, is much greater per acre of land than in any part of the United States. The wheat-fields of Captain 8. are secured against the cattle and horses by ditches. Agricultm-e, among the native Californians, is in a very primi tive state, and although Captain S. has introduced some Ameri- can implements, still his ground is but imperfectly cultivated. With good cultivation the crops would be more certain and much more abundant. The crop from the same ground the second and third, years, without sowing, is frequently very good. Wheat is selling at the fort at two dollars and fifty cents per fanega, rather more than two bushels Enghsh measure. It brings the same price when delivered at San Francisco, near the mouth of the Bay of San Francisco. It is transported from the Sacramento valley to a market in launches of about fifty tons burden. Unbolted flour sells at eight dollars per one hundred pounds. The reason of this high price is the scarcitj of flouriug-mills in the country. The mills which are now go- ing up in various places will reduce the price of flour, and probably they will soon be able to grind all the wheat raised in the country. The streams of California afford excellent water-power, but the flour consumed by Captain Sutter is giound by a very ordinary horse-mill. I saw near the for* ^ small patch of hemp, which had been sown as an experiment, in the spring, and had not been irriga- ted. I never saw a ranker growth of hemp in Kentucky. Vegetables of several kinds appeared to be abundant and in perfection, but I shall speak more particularly of the agricul- tural productions of Cahfornia in another place, when my knowledge of the country and its resources becomes, from ob- servation, more general and perfect. Captain Sutter's dining-room and his table fumitm-e do not present a very luxurious appearance. The room is unfurnished, irith the exception of a common deal table standing in the cen- 23* 270 THE DINNER. tre, and some benches, which are siibstitutes for chaiis. The table, when spread, presented a correspondingly primitive sim- plicity of aspect and of viands. The first course consisted of good soup, served to each guest in a china bo?rl with silver spoons. The bowls, after they had been used for this purpose, were taken away and cleansed by the Indian servant, and were afterwards used as tumblers or goblets, from which we drank our water. The next course consisted of two dishes of meat, one roasted and one fried, and both highly seasoned with onions. Bread, cheese, butter, and melons, constituted the desert. I am thus pai-ticular because I wish to convey as accm^ately as I can the style and mode of li^ong in California of intelligent gen- tlemen of foreign birth, who have been accustomed to all the luxuries of the most refined civilization. It is not for the purpose of criticising, but to show how des- titute the people of this naturally favored country have been of many of the most common comforts of domestic life, owing to the wretched system of government which has heretofore existed. Such has been the extortion of the government in the way of impost-duties, that few supphes which are included among even the most ordinary elegancies of life, have ever reached the inhabitants, and for these they have been compelled to pay prices that would be astonishing to a citizen of the Uni- ted States or of Europe, and such as have impoverished the population. As a general fact, they cannot be obtained at any price, and hence those who have the ability to purchase are compelled to forego their use from necessity. With our appetites, however, we enjoyed the dinner as much as if it had been served up in the most sumptuously -furnished dining-saloon, with all the table appurtenances of polished sil- ver, sparkling crystal, apd snow-like porcelain. By our long journey we had learned to est'mate the value of a thing for its actual utility and the amount )f enjoyment it confers. The day is not distant when American enterprise and American ingenui- ty will furnish those adjuncts of civilization of which California Is new so destitute, and rend(^r a residence in this country one of the most luxurious upon the globe. The couversation at RANCHERIAS SACRAMENTO RIVER. 27* dinner turned upon the events which have recently occurred in the country, and which I shall narrate in auoLher place. From the 3d to the Yth of September we remained encamped. Our camp is near an Iiidian rancheria. These rancherias consist of a number of huts constructed of a rib-work or frame of small poles or saplings in a conical shape, covered with straw, grass, or tule, a species of rush, which grows to the height of five or six feet. The huts are sometimes fifteen feet in diameter at their bases, and the number of them grouped together vary according to the number of the tribe which inliabits them. A differ- ent language in many respects is spoken at the different ranche- rias. In this remark I refer to the gentile Indians, as they are here called, and not to the christianized, the last of whom speak the Spanish. There was a large gathering at the rancheria on the night of the 6th to celebrate some event. Dancing, sing- ing, loud shouting, and howling, were continued without inter- mission the whole night. One of their orgies consisted in fix- ing a scalp upon a pole and dancing around it, accompanpng the dance with, at first, a low melancholy howl, then with loud shrieks and groans, mitil the performers appeared to become frantic with excitement of some kind, it would be difficult to tell what. The noise made by them was such as to prevent sleep, although a quarter of a mile distant from our camp. The Sacramento river, at this point, is a stream nearly half a mUe in width. The tide rises and falls some two or three feet. The water is perfectly hmpid and fresh. The river is said to be navigable for craft of one hundred tons burden, at all seasons, a hundred miles above this place. In the season of high waters, from January to July, it is navigable a much greater distance. The Sacramento rises above latitude 42° north, and runs from north to south nearly parallel with the coast of the Pacific, untD it empties into the Bay of San Francisco by several mouths in latitude Z%\° north. It is fi-inged with timber, chiefly oak and sycamore. Grape-vines and a variety of shrubbery ornament its banks, and give a most charming effect when saihng upon its placid and limpid current. I never saw a more beautiful stream. In the rainy season, and in the spring, when the snows on the 272 SWEAT -J OUSE mountains are melting, it over£cws its banks in manj places. It abounds in fish, the most vahiable of which h the salmon. These salmon are the largest and the fattest I have ever seen. I have seen salmon taken from the Sacramento five feet in length. All of its tributaries are equally rich m the finny tribe. Ameri- can enterprise will soon develop the wealth contained in these streams, which hitherto has been entirely neglected. The site of the town of Nueva Helvetia, which has been laid out by Captain Sutter, is about a mile and a half from the Sa- cramento. It is on an elevation of the plain, and not subject to overflow when the waters of the river are at their highest known point. There are now but three or four small houses in this town, but I have little doubt that it will soon become a place of importance. Near tl e embarcadero of New Helvetia is a large Indian "sweat-house," or Temascdl, an appendage of most of the rancherias. The " sweat-house" is the most important medical agent employed by these Indians. It has, I do not doubt, the ef- fect of consigning many of them to their graves, long before their appointed time. A " sweat-house" is an excavation in the earth, to the depth of six or eight feet, arched over with slabs split from logs. Tb n-e is a single small aperture or skylight in the roof. These slabs are covered to the depth of several feet with earth. There is a narrow entrance, with steps leading down and into this subterraneous apartment. Rude shelves are erected around the wuUs, upon which the invalids repose theu bodies. The door is closed and no air is admitted excep' from the small aperture in the roof, through which escapes the smoke of a fire kindled in the centre of the dungeon. This fire heats the apartment until tJ^e perspiration •■oils from the naked bodies of the invalids in streams. I incautiously entered one of these caverns during the operation above described, and was in a few moments so nearly suffocated with the heat, smoke, and impure air, that 1 found it difficult to make my way out. In the afternoon of th 7th, we received a note from Captain Sutter, stating that lie nud succeeded in obtaining a room in th^s fort for our ace immuaation, and inviting us to i;ccept of it. He INDIAN ALARM. 27S sent two servants to assist in packing our baggage ; and ac- cepting the invitation, we took up our lodgings in the fort. By this change we were relieved from the annoyance of mosquitoes, which have troubled us much during the night at our encamp- ment. But with this exception, so long have we been accius- tomed to sleeping in the open air, with no shelter but our blankets and the canopy of the heavens, that our encampment was preferable to our quarters within the confined walls of the fort. It is scarcely possible to imagine a more delightful tempera- ture, or a climate which is more agreeable and uniform. The sky is cloudless, without the slightest film of vapor apparent in all the vast azure vault. In the middle of the day the sun shines with great power, but ia the shade it is nowhere uncom- fortable. At night, so pure is the atmosphere, that the moon gives a fight sufficiently powerful for the pm-poses of the reader or student who has good eyesight. There is no necessity of burning the " midnight oil." Nature here, lights the candle for the bookworm. On the 9th, we commenced preparations for leaving the fort, for San Francisco, a journey by land of about two hundred mUes. Oui- intention was to leave early the next morning. While thus engaged, some coiuiers arrived from the settlements on the Sacramento, about one himdred miles north, with tlie startling information that one thousand Walla- Walla Indians, from Oregon, had made their appearance in the valley, for hos- tile purposes. Tlie couriers, who were themselves settlers, appeared to be in great alarm, and stated that they had seen the advance party of the Walla- Wallas, and that their object was to assault the fort for a murder which they alleged had been committed one or two years since, by an American upon a chief of their tribe, and for some mdebtedness of Captain Sutter to them, in cattle, &c. In the event of a failme in then- assault upon the fort, then they intended to dri\e off all the cattle belonging to the settlers in the vaUey. This was the substance of their information. It was so alarming, that we postponed at once our departure for San Francisco, and volun^ 274 INDIAN ALARM. teered such assistance as we could render in defending the fort against this formidable invasion. The Walla-Wallas are a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians, inhabiting a district of coiuitry on the Columbia river. They are reported to be good marksmen and fight with great bravery and desperation. Their warriors are armed with good rifles and an abundance of ammimition, which they procure from the Hudson's Bay Company. They are rapidly advancing in civili- zation, and many of them have good farms under cultivation, with numerous herds of cattle and horses. Couiiers were immediately dispatched in every direction to apprize the settlers in the valley of the invasion, and to the nearest mihtary posts, for such assistance as they could rende imder the cuxumstances. The twelve pieces of artillery by which the fort is defended were put in order, and all inside were busily employed in preparing for the expected combat. Indian spies were also dispatched to reconnoitre and discover the position and actual number of the invaders. The spies returned to the fort on the 11th without having seen the Walla- Walla invaders. A small party of some forty or fifty only, are supposed to be about twenty -five or thu-ty miles distant, on the opposite side of the Sacramento. On the twelfth, Lieut. Revere of the Navy, with a party of twenty-five men, arrived at the fort from Sonoma, to reinforce the garri- son ; and on the morning of tlie thirteenth, it having been pretty well ascertained that the reported 1000 hostile Walla- Wallaa were a small party only of men, women, and children, whose disposition was entirely pacific, we determined to proceed im- mediately on our journey to San Francisco, 0S06BAPUICA1. SKETCH. 276 CHAPTER XXII. Gfeographical sketch of California — Its political and social institntioDS — Colorado river — Valley and river of San Joaquin — Former government — Presidios — Missions — Ports and commerce. Before proceeding farther in my travels througn Upper California, for the general information of the reader, it will be proper to give a brief geographical sketch of the country, and some account of its political and social institutions, as they have heretofore existed. The district of country known, geographically, as Upper California, is bounded on the north by Oregon, the forty-second degree of north latitude being the boundary hne between the two territories ; on the east by the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mimbres, a continuation of the same range ; on the south by Sonora and Old or Lower Cahfornia, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its extent from north to south is about 700 miles, and from east to west from 600 to 800 miles, with an area of about 400,000 square miles. A small portion only of this extensive territory is fertile or inhabitable by civil- ized man, and this portion consists chiefly in the strip of country along the Pacific Ocean, about 700 miles in length, and fi'om 100 to 150 in breadth, bounded on the east by the Sierra Nevada and on the west by the Pacific. In speaking of Upper California, this strip of coimtry is what is generally re ferred to. The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red, which has a course of about 1000 miles, and empties into the Gulf of California in latitude about 32° north. But little is known of the region through which this stream flows. The re- port of trappers, however, is that the river is canoned between high moimtatns and precipices a large portion of its comse, axA that its banks and the country generallj^through which it flows 276 GEOGRAPHICAL £ KETCH. are arid, sandy, and barren. Green and Grand rivers are its principal upper tributaries, both of which rise in the Rocky Mountains and within the territories of the United States. The Gila is its lowest and largest branch, emptying into the Colo- rado, just above its mouth. Sevier and Virgin rivers are also tributaries of the Colorado. Mary's river, which I have pre- viously described, rises near latitude 42° north, and has a course of about 400 miles, when its waters sink in the sands of the desert. This river is not laid down on any map which I have seen. The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, have each a course of from 300 to 400 miles, the first flowing from the north and the last from the south, and both emptying into the Bay ol San Francisco at the same point. They water the large and fertile valley lying between the Sierra Nevada and the coast range of mountains. I subjoin a description of the valley and river San Joaquin, from the pen of a gentleman (Dr. Marsh) who has explored the river from its som'ce to its mouth. " This noble valley is tlie first undoubtedly in California, and one of the most magnificent in the world. It is about 600 miles long, with an average width of about fifty miles. It is boundec' on the e.vst by the great Snowy Mountains, and on the west by the low range, which in many places dwindles into insignificant hills, and has its northern terminus at the strait of Carquines, on the Bay of San Francisco, and its southern near the Colorado river. "The livei of San Joaqiiin flows through the middle of the valley for about lialf of its extent, and thence diverges towards the etiaiern mountain, in which it has its source. About sixty miles further south is the northern end of the Buena Vista lake, whif h is about one hundred miles long, and from ten to twenty wide. Still farther south, and near the western side of the valley, is another and much smaller lake. ' The great lakt receives about a dozen tributaries ou its eastern side, which !»11 rise in the gre? t range of the Snowy Mountains. Some of these streams fljw tlnough broad and fertile valleys within the mountain's range, an(' from thence emerguig, irrigate the pJhins of th'i great valley for the dii. GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. ^'7 tance ot twenty or thirty miles. The largest of these rivers is called by the Spanish inhabitants the River Reyes, and falls into the lake near its northern end; it is a well-timbered stream, and flou-s through a country of great fertility and beauty. The tributaries of the San Joaquin ai*e all on the east side. " On ascending the stream we first meet with the Stanislaus, a clear, rapid mountain stream, some foi'ty or fifty yards wide, Viith a considerable deptli of water in its lower portion. The ]\Iormous have commenced a settlement, called New Hope, and bailt some two or three houses near the mouth. " There are considerable bodies of fertile land along the river, aod the higher plains afford good pasturage. "Ten miles higher up is the river of the Tawalomes; it 's about the size of the Stanislaus, which it greatly resembles, except that the soil is somewhat better, and that it particularly abounds with salmon. " Some thirty miles farther comes in the Merced, much the largest of the tributaries of the San .Joaquin. The lands along and between the tributaries of tlie San Joaquin and the lake; of Buena Vista form a fine pastoral region, with a good proportion of arable land, and a very inviting field for emigration. The whole of this region has been but imperfectly explored ; enough, however, is known, to make it certain that it is one of the most desirable regions on the continent. "In the valleys of the rivers which come down from the great Snowy Mountains, are vast bodies of pine, and red-wood, ST cedar timber, and the streams afiford watef -power to any desirable amount. " The whole coimtry east of the San Joaquin and the water communication which connects it with the lakes, is considered, by the best judges, to be particularly adapted to the culture of the vine, which must necessarily become one of the principal agricultural resources of California." The Salinas river empties into the Pacific, about twelve miles above Monterey. Bear river empties into the Great Salt Lake. The other streams of California are all small. The Great Salt Lake and the Utah Lake I have already de- 34 278 GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. scribed. There are numerous small lakes in the Sierra Nevada. The San Joaquin is connected with Tule lake, or lake Buena Vista, a sheet of water about eighty xiles in length and fifteen in breadth. A lake, not laid down in any map, and known as the Laguna among the Californians, is situated about sixty miles north of the Bay of San Francisco. It is between forty and sixty miles in length. The valleys in its vicinity are highly fertile, and romantically beautiful. In the vicinity of this lake there is a mountain of pm-e sulphur. There are also soda springs and a great variety of other mineral waters, and minerals. The principal mountains west of the eastern boundary of Cal ifornia, (the Rocky Mountains,) are the Bear River, Wahsatch, Utah, the Sierra Nevada, and the Coast range. The Wah- satch mountains form the eastern rim of the "great interior basin." There are mmierous ranges in this desert basin all of which run north and south, and are separated from each other by spacious and barren valleys and plams. The Sierra Nevada range is of greater elevation than the Rocky Mountains. The summits of the most elevated peaks are covered with perpetual snow. This and the Coast range run nearly parallel with the shore of the Pacific. The first is from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific, and the last from forty to sixty miles. The valley between them is the most fertile portion of California. Upper California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator. In 1578, the northern portion of it wa^s visited by Sir Francis Drake, who called it New Albion. It wds, first colonized by the Spaniards, in 17C8, and formed " province of Mexico until after the revolution in that countr}. There liave been numerous revolutions and civil wars in Califor- nia within the last twenty y(!ars, but up to the conquest of the country by the United States in 184G, Mexican authority has generally been exercised over it. The following description of the political and social condition of Upper California in 1822, is extracted and translated from a Sijanish writer of tliat date, I have thought that the extract would not be uninteresting : — " Government. — Upper California, on account of its smaU GOVERNMENT — PRESIDIOS. 279 population, not being able to become a state of the great Mexi can republic, takes the character of territory, the governmenl of which is under the charge of a commandant-general, who exercises the charge of a superior political chief, whose attri- butes depend entirely upon the president of the republic and the general congress. But to amplify the legislation of its centre, it r as a deputation made up of seven vocals, the half of these individuals being removed every two years. The superior political chief presides at their sessions. The inhabitants of the territory are divided amongst the presidios, missions, and towns. "Presidios. — The necessity of protecting the apostolic predi- cation was the obligatory reason for forming the presidios, which were established according to circumstances. That of San Diego was the first; Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco, were built afterwards. The form of all of them is nearly the same, and this is a square, containing about two hundred yards in each front, formed of a weak wall made of mud-bricks. Its height may be four yards in the interior of the square, and built on to the same wall. In its entire cir- cumference are a chapel, storehouses, and houses for the com- mandant; officers and troops having at the entrance of thi; presidio quarters for a corps de garde. " These buildings in the presidios, at the first idea, appear to have been sufficient; the only object having been for a defence against a surprise from the gentiles, or wild Indians in the immediate vicmity. But this cause having ceased, I believe they ought to be demolished, as they are daily threatening a complete ruin, and from the very limited spaces of habitation, must be very incommodious to those who inhabit them. As to the exterior of the presidios, several private individuals have built some very decent houses, and having evinced great emu- lation in this branch of business, I have no doubt but in a short time we shall see very considerable towns in California. " At the distance of one, or at the most two miles from the presidio, and near to the anchoring-ground, is a fort, which has a few pieces of artillery of small cahbre. The situation of most of tkem is very advantageous for the defence of the port» 880 MISSIONS. though the form of the walls, esplanades, and other imperfec tions, which may be seen, make them very insignificant. " The battahon of each presidio is made up of eighty or more horse-soldiers, called cuera ; besides these, it has a number of auxihary troops and a detachment of artillery. The com- mandant of each presidio is the captain of its respective com- pany, and besides the intervention, military and political, he has charge of all things relating to the marine department. "Missions. — The missions contained in the territory are twenty-one. They were built at diflferent epochs ■ that of San Diego, being the first, was built in 1769 ; its distance from the presidio of the same name is two leagues. The rest were built successively, according to circumstances and necessity. The last one was founded in the year 1822, under the name of San Fx^acisco Dolores, and is the most northern of all. " The edifices in some of those missions are more extensive than in others, but in form they are all nearly equal. They are all fabricated of mud-bricks, and the divisions are according to necessity. In all of them may be fomid commodious habita- tions for the ministers, storehouses to keep their goods in, pro- portional granaries, ofiices for soap-makers, weavers, black- smiths, and large parterres, and horse and cattle pens, inde- pendent apartments for Indian youths of each sex, and all such offices as were necessary at the time of its mstitution. Con- tiguous to and communicating with the former, is a church, forming a part of the edifices of each mission ; they are all very proportionable, and are adorned with profusion. " The Indians reside about two hundred yards distant from the above-mentioned edifice. This place is called the rancheria. Most of tlie missions are made up of very reduced quarters, built with mud-bricks, foiming streets, while in others the In- dians have been allowed to follow their primiti\e customs ; their JweUings being a sort of huts, in a conical shape, which at the most do not exceed four yards in diameter, and tlie top of the cone may be elevated three yards. They are built of rough sticks, covered with bulrushes or grass, in such a manner as to completely protect the inhabitants fiom all the inclemencies of MISSIONS 281 the weather. In my opinion, these rancheiias are the most adequate to the natm-al uncleanliness of the Indians, as the famiUes often renew them, burning the old ones, and imme- diately building others with the greatest facihty. Opposite the rancherias and near to the mission, is to be found a small gar- rison, with proportionate rooms, for a corporal and five soldiers with their famihes. This small garrison is qmte sufficient to prevent any attempt of the Indians from taking eflect, there having been some examples made, which causes the Pwdians to respect this small force. One of these pickets in a mission has d double object ; besides keeping the Indians in subjecticm, they run post with a monthly correspondence, or with any ex- traordinaries that may be necessary for government. " All the missions in this California are under the charge of rehgious men of the order of San Francisco. At the present time their number is twenty-seven, most of them of an ad- vanced age. Each mission has one of these fathers for its administrator, and he holds absolute authority. The tilling of the ground, the gathering of the harvest, the slaughteiing of cattle, the weaving, and every thing that concerns the mission, is imder the dhection of the fathers, without any other person interfering in any way whatever, so that if any one mission has the good fortune to be superintended by an industrious and discreet padre, the Indians disfrute in abtmdance all the real necessaries of life ; at the same time the nakedness and misery of any one mission, are a palpable proof of the inactivity of its director. The missions extend their possession from one ex- tremity of the territory to the other, and have made the hmits of one mission from those of another. Though they do not require all this land for their agriculture and the maintenance of their stock, they have appropriated the whole ; always strongly opposing any indiiddual who may wish to settle him- self or his family on any piece of land between them. But it is to be hoped that the new system of illustration, and the necessity of augmenting private property, and the people of reason, wUl cause the government to take such adequate measures as will concihate the interests of all. Amongst all the 241 2S2 HABITS OF INDIANS. missions there are from twentj-one to twenty-two thousand rJatholic Indians; but each mission has not an equal or a proportionate part in its congregation. Some have three or four thousand, whUst others have scarcely four himdred ; and at this difference may be computed the riches of the missions in proportion. Besides the number of Indians already spoken of, each mission has a considerable number of gentiles, who hve chiefly on farms annexed to the missions. The number of these is undetermined. " The Indians are naturally filthy and careless, and their un- derstanding is very Umited. In the small arts they are not deficient in ideas of imitation, but they nevier will be inventors. Their true character is that of being revengeful and timid, con- sequently they are very much addicted to treachery. They have no knowledge of benefits received, and ingratitude is common amongst them. The education they receive in their infancy is not the proper one to develop their reason, and if it were, I do not believe them capable of any good impression. All these Indians, whether from the continual use of the sweat-house, or from their filthiness, or the little ventilation in their habitations, are weak and unvigorous ; spasms and rheumatics, to which they are so much subject, are the consequences of their cus- toms. But what most injures them, and prevents propagation, is the venereal disease, which most of them have very strongly ; clearly proving that their humors are analogous to receiving the impressions of this contagion. From this reason may be de- duced the enormous differences between the births and deaths, which, without doubt, is one-tenth per year in favor of the lat- ter ; but tlie missionaries do all in their power to prevent this, with respect to the catechumens situated near them. "The general production of the missions are, the breed of the larger class of cattle, and sheep, horses, wheat, maize or Indian corn, beans, peas, and other vegetables ; though the productions of the missions situated more to the southward are more ex- tensive, these producing the grape and olive in abundance. Of all these articles of production, the most lucrative is the large eatUe; their hides and tallow affording an active commerce PRODUCTIONS TOWNS. 883 with foreign vessels on this coast. This being the only means the inhabitants, mbsionaries, or private individuals have of sup- plying their actual necessities, for this reason they give this branch all the impulse they possibly can, and on it generally place all their attention. " It is now six years since they began to gather in hides and tallow for commerce. Formerly they merely took care of as many or as much as they required for their own private use, and the rest was thrown away as useless ; but at this time, the actual number of hides sold annually on board of foreign ves- sels amount to thirty or forty thousand, and about the same amoimt of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow ; and in pur- suing their present method, there is no doubt but in three or four years the amount of the exportation of each of these arti- cles will be doubled. Flax, linen, wine, olive oU, grain, and other agricultural productions, would be very extensive if there were stimulants to excite industry ; but this not being the case, there is just grain enough sown and reaped for the con- sumption of the inhabitants in the territory. " The towns contained in this district are three ; the most popu- lous being that of Angeles, which has about twelve hundred souls, that of St. Joseph's of Guadaloupe may contain six hun- dred, and the village of Branciforte two hundred : they are all formed imperfectly and without order, each person having built his own house on the spot he thought most convenient for him- self. The first of these pueblos is governed by its correspond- ing body of magistrates, composed of an alcalde or judge, four regidores or municipal officers, a syndic and secretary ; the sec- »)nd, of an alcalde, two regidores, a syndic and secretary ; and the thu"d, on account of the smallness of its population, is sub- ject to the commandancia of Monterey. " The inhabitants of the towns are white, and to distingmsh them from the Indians are vulgarly called people of reason. The number of these contained in the territory may be nearly five thousand. These families are divided amongst the pueblos and presidios. They are nearly all the descendants of a small num- ber of individuals who came from the Mexican country, somv 284 PEOPLE OF REASON FECUNDITY. as settlers, others in the service of the army, and accompanied by their wives. In the hmited space of little more than fifty years the present generation has been formed. " The whites are in general robust, healthy, and well made. Some of them are occupied in breedmg and raising cattle, and cultivating small quantities of wheat and beans ; but for want mpanionH in arms, who were invited to this country by a promise of laudr on which to settle tlKiniselves and familien ; who were also promised a Re- publican Government, when having arrived iu California the^ *fero denied the orivilcge of buying or renting lauds of their friends ; who, iufitead of beinc MURDER OF COWIE AND FOWLER. 291 Allowed to participate in or being protected by a Republican Government, were oppressed by a military despotism ; who were even threatened by proc- lamation, by the chief officers of the aforesaid despotism, with extermina- tion if they should not depart out of the country, leaving all their property, arms, and beasts of burden ; and thus deprived of their means of flight oi defence, we were to be driven through deserts inhabited by hostile Indians, to certain destruction. " To overthrow a government which has seized upon the property of the missions for its individual aggrandizement ; which has ruined and shamefully oppressed the laboring people of California, by their enormous exactions on goods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men who are associated under my command. " I also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to be to invite all peaceable and good citizens of California, who are friendly to the main- tenance of good order and equal rights, and I do hereby invite them to repair to my camp at Sonoma, without delay, to assist lis in establishing and perpetuating a Republican Government, which shall secure to all civil and rehgious liberty ; which shall encourage virtue and literature ; which shall leave unshackled by fetters, agriculture, commerce, and manufactures. " I further declare that I rely upon the rectitude of our intentions, the favor of Heaven, and the bravery of those who are bound and associated with me, by the principles of self-preservation, by the love of truth, and the hatred of tyranny, for my hopes of success. " I furthermore declare, that I believe that a government to be prosper- ous and happy, must originate with the people who are friendly to its ex- istence ; that the citizens are its guardians, the officers its servants, itg glory its reward. (Signed,) William B. Ids " Headqueirters, Sonoma, June 18th, 1846." " About the time the foregoing proclamation was issued, two yoimg men, Mr. T. Cowie and Mr. Fowler, who lived m the neighborhood of Sonoma, started to go to the Bodega. On their way they were discovered by a small party of Californians, under the command of one Padilla, and taken prisoners. They were kept as prisoners for a day and a half, and then tied to trees and cut to pieces in the most brutal manner. A Californian, known as Four-fingered Jack, was subsequently captured, and gave the following account of that horrid scene : — The party, after keeping the prisoners a day or two, tied them to trees, and stoned them. One of them had his jaw broken. A riata (rope) was then made fast to the broken bone, and the jaw 292 BATTLE OF SA^ RAFAEL. dragged out. They were then cut up by piecemeal, and the jDieces thrown at them, or crammed into their throats. They were finally dispatched by cutting out their bowels! "Fortimately for Jiumanity, these cold-blooded, savage mui- ders were soon put to an end, by the very active measuiL.) taken by the garrison at Sonoma. Having heard nothing oi the anival of Cowie and Fowler at their place of destination, it was suspected that they had been taken and probably kUled ; and hearing that three others were prisoners in Padilla's camp. Captain Ford (then 1st lieutenant at Sonoma) headed a party of twenty-two men, ofiScers included, and. took the road for the enemy's camp, which had been reinforced by Captain Joaquin de la Torre, with seventy men. It was reported that their headquarters were at Santa Rosa Plains, to which point Ford proceeded. Finding that they had left, he followed them in the direction of San Rafael ; and after travelling all night, making about sixty miles in sixteen hours, came up with the enemy twelve rrdles from San Rafael, where they had stopped to breakfast. " The enemy occupied a position at a house on the edge oi the plains, about sixty yards fiom a small grove of brushwood. Captain Ford, having several prisoners, left four men to guard them, and with the remainder advanced upon the enemy. Reaching the brushwood, he dii'ected his party to tie their horses, and take such positions as would cut off the Califomians, but by no means to fire until they could kill their man ; which order was so well obeyed, that out of twenty or twenty-five shots fired by the Americans, eleven took effect. Eig]\t of the enemy were killed, two wounded, and one horse shot through the neck. One party of the Californians, led by a sergeant, charged up handsomely ; but the deadly fire of Ford's riflemen forced them to retire, with the loss of the sergeant and several of his men. The fall of the sergeant seemed to be the signal for retreat. The whole party retired to a liigh hill, about a mile from tlie field of battle. Ford and his gallant followers waited a short time, and finding that the enemy showed no disposition to return to the fght, released the prisoners who had been taken by them, ana hen went to a coiTal, where thej CASTRo's PROCLAMATION. 293 found a larfje cahallada of liorses, and exchanged their tired horses for fresh ones. They then returned to Sonoma. The Cahfornians, on this occasion, did not sustain the reputation they had previously gained. They were eighty-six strong, while Captain Ford had but eighteen men engaged." Captain Fremont having heard that Don Jose Castro was crossing the bay with 200 men, marched and joined the garrison at Sonoma, on the 25th of June. Several days were spent in active pursuit of the party imder Captain De la Torre, but they succeeded in crossing the bay before they could be overtaken. With the retreat of De la Torre, ended all opposition on the north side of the bay of San Francisco. On the 1 7th June, after the receipt of the news of the taking of Sonoma, Don Jose Castro issued two proclamations, one ad- dressed to the old citizens, and the other to the new citizens and foreigners. The following are translations of these proclamations : The citizen Jose Castro, lieutenant-colonel of cavalry in the Mexican army, and acting general-commander of the department of California. FelloiD-cMzens : — The contemptible policy of the agents of the United States of North America, in this department, has induced a portion of ad- venturers, who, regardless of the rights of men, have daringly commenced an invasion, possessing themselves of the town of Sonoma, taking by surprise all that place, the military commander of that border, Colonel Don Mariano Guadaloupe Vallejo, Lieutenant-colonel Don Victor Prudon, Captain Don Salvador Valldjo, and Mr. Jacob P. Leese. Fellow-countrymen — The defence of our liberty, the true religion which our fathers possessed, and our independence, calls upon us to sacrifice our- selves, rather than lose these inestimable blessings ; banish from your heeirts all petty resentments, turn you, and behold yourselves, these families, these innocent little ones, which have unfortunately fallen into the hands of our enemies, dragged from the bosoms of their fathers, who are prisoners among foreigners, and are calling upon us to succor them. There is still time for us to rise " en masse," as irresistible as retributive. You need not doubt but that divine providence will direct us in the way to glory. You should not vacillate because of the smallness of the garrison of the general head- quarters, for he who first will sacrifice himself will be your friend and fellow- citizen. JOSE CASTRO. HEADauARTERS, Sa.n'ta Clara, Juue 17th, 1846. Citizen Jose Castro, lieutenant-colonel of artillery iu the Mexican amay, and acting general -conmiander of the department of Upper California. 26* 294 RAISING OF U. S. FLAO. All foreigners residing among us, occupied with their business, may res! assured of the protection of all the authorities of the department, whilst thev refrain entirely from all levolutionary movements. The general commandaucia under my charge will never proceed with vigor against any persons, neither will its authority result in mere words, wanting proof to support it ; declaration shall be takeu, proofs executed, and the hberty and rights of the laborious, which is ever commendable, shall be irotiected. Let the fortune of war take its chance with those ungrateful men, who, vith arms in their hands, have attacked the country, without recollecting .hey were treated by the undersigned with all the indulgence of which he is so characteristic. The imparative inhabitants of the department are wit- nesses to the truth of this. I have nothing to fear — my duty leads me to death or to victory. I am a Mexican soldier, and I will be free and inde- pendent, or I will gladly die for these inestimable blessings. JOSE CASTRO. HEADaoARTERs, Santa Cl^uia, Juno 17th, 1846. Captain Fremont, with about 170 men, after the retreat or De la Torre, retm-aed, \aa Sonoma, to the mouth of the Rio de Ids Americanos, near Sutter's Fort, for the purpose of crossing his horses and baggage at that point, and then marching to Santa Clara, understood to be the headquarters of General Castro. A small party of ten men commanded by R. Semple was ordered to cross the Bay of San Francisco to the town of San Francisco, and if practicable to maVe prisoner the captain of the Port, Mr. R. T. Ridley. This service was performed, and Mr Ridley was conveyed to New Helvetia, where the other pris oners were confined. The party reached New Helvetia on the eighth of July. Commodore Sloat arrived at Monterey in the United States Frigate Savannah, on the second of July. He had heard of the first dilTiculties between the Mexican and the United States forces on tlie Rio Gnmde, at Mazatlan, but had not heard of the declaration of Congress that war existed. On the seventh of July he determined to hoist the American flag in Monterey, which act was performed by Capt. Mervine, commanding 250 marines and seamen. After the raising of the flag, amidst tlie cheers of the troops and foreigners present, a salute of twenty- one guns was fired by all the ships in the harbor, and the COM. 8L0AT S PROCLAMATION. 295 following proclamation was read and posted in English and Spanish : TO THE INHABITANTS OF CALIFORNIA. The central government of Mexico having commenced hostilities against Ihe United States of America, by invading its territory, and attacking the troops of the United States stationed on the north side of the Rio Grande, and with a force of 7000 men under the command of Gen. Arista, which army was totally destroyed, and all their artillery, baggage, &c., captured on the eighth and ninth of May last, by a force of 2300 men, under the command of Gen. Taylor, and the city of Matamoras taken and occupied by the forces of the United States, and the two nations being actually at war by this transaction, I shall hoist the standard of the United States at Monterey immediately, and shall carry it throughout California. I declare to the inhabitants of California, that, although I come in arma with a powerful force, I do not come among them as an enemy to Califor- nia : on the contrary, I come as their best freind, as henceforth California will be a portion of the United States, and its peaceable inhabitants will enjoy the same rights and privileges they now enjoy, together with the privilege of choosing their own magistrates, and other officers for the ad- ministration of justice among themselves, and the same protection will be extended to them as to any other State in the Union. They will also enjoy a permanent government, under which life, property, and the constitutional right and lawful security to worship the Creator in the way most congenial to each one's sense of duty, will be secured, which, unfortunately, the central government of Mexico cannot afford them, destroyed as her re- sources are by internal factions and corrupt officers, who create constant revolutions to promote their own interests and oppress the people. Under the flag of the United States, California will be free from all such troubles uiid expenses ; consequently, the country will rapidly advance and improve t>oth in agriculture and commerce, as, of course, the revenue laws will be the sume in California as in all other parts of the United States, affijrding them :ill manufactures and produce of the United States, free of any duty, and (dl foreign goods at one quarter of the duty they now pay. A great in- crease in the value of real estate and the products of California may also be anticipated. With the great interest and kind feelings I know the government and people of the United States possess towards the citizens of California, the country cannot but improve more rapidly than any other on the continent of America. Such of the inhabitants of California, whether native or foreigners, aa may not be disposed to accept the high privileges of citizenship, and to live peaceably under the government of the United States, will be allowed time 296 FLAG RAISED AT SAN FRANCISCO. to dispose of their property, and to raraove out of the country, if they choose, without any restriction ; or remain in it, observing strict neutrality. With full confidence in the honor and integrity of the inhabitants of the country, I invite the judges, alcaldes, and other civil officers, to execute their functions as heretofore, that tlie public tranquillity may not be dis- turbed ; at least until the government of the territory can be more definitely arranged. All persons holding titles to real estate, or in quiet possession of lauds under color of right, shall have those titles guarantied to them. All churches and the property they contain in possession of the clergy of California, siiall continue in the same rights and possession they now enjoy. All provisions and supplies of every kind furnished by the inhabitants for the use of the United States ships and soldiers, will be paid for at fair rates ; and no private property will be taken for public use without just compensa- tion at the moment. JOHN D. SLOAT, Commander-in-chief of the U. S. Naval force in the Pacific Ocean. On tlie sixth of July, Commodore Sloat dispatched a cou- rier to Commander Montgomery of the sloop-of-war Ports- mouth, lying at San Francisco, notifying him of his intention to hoist the American flag at Monterey, and requiring him, if his force was sufficient, to do the same at San Francisco and elsewhere in the upper portion of the territory. On the morn- ing of the eighth. Com. Montgomery at the head of seventy sailors and marines landed and hoisted the American flag in the pubUc square, under a salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth. A volunteer corps of American foreigners was im- mediately oiganized for the defence of the place. On the tenth, a flag dispatched by Com. Montgomery to Sonoma was i-eceived and raised there with shouts of satisfac- uon from the revolutionary garrison. The United States flag was scjon after unfurled, witliout serious opposition, at every principal place in the northern part of California. On the eighth, the next day after the raising of the United States flag at Monterey, Purser Fauntleroy, of the Savannah, was ordered to oiganize a company of dragoons, volunteers from the ships and citizens on shore, tc reconnoitre the country and keep the communication open between Monterey and the more northern posts, m possession of tue Americana. On the 2 J Los ANGELES TAKEN. ^^ seventeenth, this corps marched to the Mission of San Jiian, about thirty miles east of Monterey, for the purpose of raising at that place the United States flag, and of taking possession of guns and other munitions said to have been concealed there. Capt. Fremont ha\ing left his position on the Sacramento on ihe twelfth, had reached San Juan about an hour before Purser Fauntleroy, and taken possession of the Mission without oppo- sition. There were found here 9 pieces of cannon, 200 old muskets, 20 kegs of powder, and 60,000 pounds of cannon-shot. Both parties marched into Monterey the next day. The fortification of Monterey was commenced immediately after the raising of the United States flag. On the twenty-thh'd. Com. Sloat sailed in the Levant for the United States, via Pa- nama, leaving Com. Stockton, who had arrived at Monterey in the Congress on the fifteenth, in command of the Pacific squad- ron. Immediately after, the Cyane, Com. Dupont, with Capt. Fremont and volunteers on board, sailed for San Diego, and the frigate Congress, Com. Stockton, sailed for San Pedro, the port of Los Angeles, the then capital of California. The frigate Savannah remained at Monterey, and the sloop Ports- mouth at San Francisco, Gen. Castro in the mean time had formed a jimction at Santa Barbara with Gov, Pio Pico, their joint forces numbering about 600. From Santa Barbara they marclied to Los Angeles, arriving at that place early in August. Capt. Fremont with the volunteers landed at San Diego about tlie same time, San Diego is 130 miles south of Los Angeles, and Com, Stockton landed his force of marines and sailors from the Congress at San Pedro. Com. Stockton marched immediately towards Los Angeles, hauling his artillery with oxen. As he approached the camp of the enemy on the Mesa, they fled with precipita- tion and without making any resistance. The Commodore marched into the city of Angels and took possession of it and the public property witliout opposition. Capt, Fremont, owing to the difiiculty of procuring horses, did not arrive at Los Angelea until several days after the occupation of the town by Com. Stockton. Castro with a few followers fled to Sonera. COM. Stockton's roclamation. On the 17th of August Commodore Stockton issued the foi lowing proclamation, declaring California in the full and peace- able possession of the United States, and authorizing and re- questing the election of civil officers throughout the country, TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA. On my approach to this place with the forces under my command, Jos^ Castro, the commaudant-general of California, buried his artillery and abandoned his fortified camp " of the Mesa," and fled, it is believed, towards Mexico. With the sailors, the marinas, and the California battalion of mounted riflemen, we entered the " City of the Angeles," the capital of California, on the 13th of August, and hoisted the North American flag. The flag of the United States is now flying from every commanding position in the territorj', and California is entirely free from Mexican do- minion. The territory of California now belongs to the United States, and will be governed, as soon as circumstances may permit, by oflicers and laws similar to those by which the other territories of the United States are regulated and protected. But, until the governor, the secretary, and council are appointed, and the various civil departments of the government are arranged, military law will prevail, and the commander-in-chief will be the governor and protector of the territory. In the mean time the people will be permitted, and are now requested, to meet in their several towns and departments, at such time and place as they may see fit, to elect civil ofiicers to fill the places of those who decline to continue in office, and to administer the laws according to the former usages of the territory. In all cases where the people fail to elect, the konmiander-in-chief anH governor will make the appointments himself All persons, of whatever relimon or nation, who faithfully adhere to the new govPDuiient, will be considered as citizens of the territory, and will be zealously and thoroughly protected in the liberty of conscience, their persons, and property. No [jcrsons will be permitted to remain in the territory who do not agree to support the existing government ; and all military men who desire to remain, arc required to take an oath that tiiey will not take up arma against it, or do or say any thing :. disturb its peace. Nor will any i)fTs(>ns, come fiom where tney may, be permitted to settle in the territory, who do not pledge thei iselves to bo, in all respects, obedient to the laws which may bo from time t time enacted by the proper authori tiM of tiM territory. RESUME JOURNET. 299 AD personB vh), without special permission, are found with arms, outside •f their own houses, will be considered as enemies, aud will be shipped out of the country. Air thieves will be put to hard labor on the public works, and there kept< until compensation is made for the property stolen. The California battalion of mounted riflemen will be kept in the service of the territory, and constantly on duty, to prevent and punish any aggres- sions by the Indians, or any other persons, upon the property of individuals, or the peace of the territory ; and California shall hereafter be so governed and defended as to give security to the inhabitants, and to defy the power of Mexico. All persons are required, as long as the territory is under martial law, to be within their houses from ten o'clock at night until sunrise in the morning R. F. STOCKTON, Commander-in-Chief, and Governor of the Territory of California. ClODAD DB LOS AnGELKS, ) August nth, 1846. ) CHAPTER XXIV. Resume my travels — Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco — Cos^umne river — Mick^lemes river — Ford of the San Joaquin — Extensive plain — Tule marshes — Large droves of wild horses and elk — Arrive at Dr. Marsh's — Vineyard — Californiau grape — Californian wine — Aguardiente — Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin — Californian beef — Cattle — Grasses of California — Horses — Breakfast — Leave Dr. Marsh's — Arrive at Mr. Livermore's — Comforts of his dwelling — Large herds of cattle — Sheep — Swine — Californian senora — Slaughtering of a bullock — Fossil oyster-shells — Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain — Arrive at mission of San 3os6 — Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission — Pedlers — Landlady — Filth — Gardens of the mission — Fruit orchards — Empty warehouses and workshops — Foul lodgings. September 13th. — We commenced to-day our journey from New Helvetia to San Francisco. Our party consisted, in- cluding myself, of Colonel Russell, Dr. McKee of Monterey, Mr. Pickett, a traveller in the countrj^ recently from OregoU; and an Indian servant, who had been furnished us by Captain 300 TRIBUTARIES OF 8ACRAIfBMT0. Sutter. Starting about three o'clock, p. m., we tra •, lied in a south course over a flat plain until sunset, and encamped near a small lake on the rancho of Mr. Murphy, near the CosQumne river, a tributary of the Sacramento, which heads near the foot of the Sierra Nevada. The stream is small, but the bottom- lands are extensive and rich. Mr. Mmphy has been settled in California about two years, and, with his wife and several chil- dren, has resided at this place sixteen months, during which time he has erected a comfortable dwelling-house, and other necessary buildmgs and conveniences. His wheat crop was abundant this year ; and he presented us with as much milk and fresh butter as we desired. The grass on the upland plain over which we have travelled, is brown and crisp from the annual drought. In the low bottom it is still green. Distance 18 mUes. September 14. — We crossed the CosQumne river about a mile from our camp, and travelled over a level plain covered with luxuriant grass and timbered with the evergreen oak, imtil three o'clock, when we crossed the Mickelemes river, another tributary of the Sacramento, and encamped on its southern bank in a beautiful grove of live-oaks. The Mickelemes, where we crossed it, is considerably larger than the Coscumnes. The soil of the bottom appears to be very rich, and produces the finest qualities of grasses. The grass on the upland is also abundant, but at this time it is brown and dead. We passed through large tracts of wild oats during the day ; the stalks are generally from three to five feet in length. Our Indian servant, or vaquero, feigned sickness this morning, and we discharged him. As soon as he obtained his discharge, lie was entiicly iclieved from the excruciating agonies under which he had affected to be suffering for several hours. Eat- ing his breakfast, and mounting his horse, he galloped off in the direction of the fort. We overtook this afternoon an Eng- lish sailor, naintid jack, who was travelling towards Monterey ; and we employed him as cook and hostler for the remainder of the journey. A variety of autumnal llowers, generally of a brilliant yellow SAN JOAQUIN RIVE&. 301 ire in bloom along the beautiful and romantic banks of the riv"ulet. Distance 25 miles. September 15. — Our horses were frightened last night by bears, and this morning, with the exception of those which were picketed, had straj'ed so far that we did not recover them until ten o'clock. Our route has continued over a flat plain, generally covered with luxuriant grass, wild oats, and a va- riety of sparkling flowers. The soil is composed of a rich argillaceous loam. Large tracts of the land are evidently sub- ject to annual inundations. About noon we reached a small lake surrounded by tule. There being no trail for our guidance, we experienced some difficulty in shaping our course so as to strike the San Joaquin river at the usual fording- place. Our man Jack, by some neglect or mistake of his own, lost sight of us, and we were compelled to proceed without him. This afternoon we saw several large droves of antelope and deer. Garae of all kinds appears to be very abundant in this rich valley. Passing through large tracts of tule we reached the San Joaquin river at dark, and encamped on the eastern bank. Here we immediately made large fires and discharged pistols as signals to our man Jack, but he did not come into camp. Dis- tance 35 mOes. September 16. — Jack came into camp while we were break- fasting, leading his tired horse. He had bivouacked on the plain, and fearful that his horse would break loose if he tied him, he held the animal by the bridle all night. The ford of the San Joaquin is about forty or fifty miles from its mouth. At this season the water is at its lowest stage. The stream at the ford is probably one hundred yards in breadth, and our animals crossed it without much difficulty, the water reaching about midway of their bodies. Oak and small willows are the piincipal growth of wood skirting the river. Soon after we crossed the San Joaquin this morning we met two men, couriers, bearing dispatches from Commodore Stockton, the governor and commander-in-chief in California, to Sutter's Fort. Entering upon the broad plain we passed, in about* three miles, a small lake, the water of which was so much impregnated 302 WILD HORSES — ELK with alkali as to be undrinkable. The grass is brown and crisp, but the seed upon it is evidence that it had fully matured before the drought affected it. The plain is fmTOwed with nu- merous deep trails, made by the droves of wild horses, elk, deer, and antelope, which roam over and graze upon it. The hunting sportsman can here enjoy his favorite pleasure to its fullest extent. Having determined to deviate from our direct course, in or- der to Adsit the rancho of Dr. Marsh, we parted from Messrs. McRee and Pickett about noon. We passed diiring the after- noon several tule maishes, with which the plain of the San Joaquin is dotted. At a distance, the tule of these marshes pre- sents the appearance of immense fields of ripened com. The marshes are now nearly dry, and to shorten our journey we crossed several of them without difficulty. A month earlier, this would not have been practicable, i I have but little doubt that these marshes would make fine rice plantations, and pp" haps, if properly drained, they might produce the sugar-cane. Wliile pursuihg our journey we frequently saw large droves of wild horses and elk grazing quietly upon the plain. No spectacle of moving life can present a more animated and beau- tiful appearance than a herd of wild horses. They were divided into droves of some one or two hundred. When they noticed us, attracted by cuiiosity to discover what we were, they woiUd start and run almost with the flcetness of the wind in the direc- tion towards us. But arri\Tng within a distance of two hundred yards, they would suddenly halt, and after bowing their necks into graceful curves, and looking steadily at us a few moments, with loud snortings they would wheel about and bound away with tlie same liglitning speed. These evolutions they would repeat several times, until having satisfied their curiosity, they would bid us a final acjicu, and disappear behind the undula- tions of the plain. The herds of elk were much nore numerous. Some of them numbered at least two thousand, and with their immense antlers presented, when running, a very singular and picturesque ap- peuraDCf. We ajjpioaclied .some of these herds within fifty OR. marsh's rancho. 303 yardfa before they took the alarm. Beef m Cahfomia is so abundant, and of so fine a quality, that game is but little hunted, and not much prized. Hence the elk, deer, and even antelope, are comparatively very tame, and rarely rim from the traveller, unless he rides very near them. Some of these elk are as large as a medium-sized Mexican mule. We arrived at the rancho of Dr. Marsh about 5 o'clock, p. m., greatly fatigued with the day's ride. The residence of Dr. M. is romantically situated, near the foot of one of the most ele- vated mountains in the range separating the valley of the San Joaquin from the plain surrounding the Bay of San Francisco. It is called " Moimt Diablo," and may be seen in clear weather a great distance. The dwelling of Dr. M. is a small one-story house, rudely constructed of adobes, and divided into two or three apartments. ^The flooring is of earth, like the walls. A table or two, and some benches and a bed, are all the furniture it contains. Such are the privations to which those who settle in new coxmtries must submit. Dr. M. is a native of New Eng- land, a graduate of Harvard University, and a gentleman of fine natural abilities and extensive scientific and literaiy acqmi-e- ments. He emigrated to California some seven or eight j-eart since, after ha\ing travelled through most of the Mexican States He speaks the Spanish language fluently and correctly, and his accurate knowledge of Mexican institutions, laws and customs, was fully displayed in his conversation in regard to them. He obtained the grant of land upon which he now resides, some ten or twelve miles square, four or five years ago ; and although he has been constantly harassed by the wild Indians, who have several times stolen all his horses, and sometimes numbers of his cattle, he has succeeded in permanently establishing him- self. The present number of cattle on his rancho is about two thousand, and the increase of the present year he estimates at five himdred. I noticed near the house a vegetable garden, with the usual variety of vegetables. In another enclosure was the com- mencement of an extensive vineyard, the fruit of which (now ripe) exceeds in delicacy of flavor any grapes which I have 304 CALIFOR IAN GRAPE. ever tasted. This grape is not indigenous, but was introduced by the padres, when they first estabhshed themselves in the country. The soU and climate of Cahfornia have probably im- proved it. Many of the clusters are eight and ten inches in length, and weigh several pounds. The fruit is of medium size, and in color a dark purple. The rind is very thin, and when broken the pulp dissolves in the mouth immediately. Although Dr. M. has just commenced his vineyard, he has made several casks of wine this year, which is now in a state of fermentation. I tasted here, for the first time, aguardi- ente, or brandy distilled from the Californian grape. Its flavor is not unpleasant, and age, I do not doubt, would render it '^qual to the brandies of France. Large quantities of wine and aguardiente are made from the extensive vineyards farther south. Dr. M. informed me that his lands had produced a hundredfold of wheat without irrigation. This yield seems almost incredible ; but if we can believe the statements of men of unimpeached veracity, there have been numerous instances of reproduction of wheat in California equalling and even exceeding this. Some time in July, a vessel arrived at San Francisco from New York, which had been chartered and freighted princi- pally by a party of Mormon emigrants, numbering between two and three hundred, women and children included. These Mormons are about making a settlement for agricultural pui*- poses, on the San Joaquin river, above the rancho of Dr. Marsh. Two of the women and one of the men are now here„ waiting for the return of the main party, which has gone up the river to explore and select a suitable site for the settlement. Tlie women are young, neatly dressed, and one of them may be called good-looking. Captain Gant, formerly of the U. S. ^irray, in very bad health, is i Iso residing here. He has crossed ihe Rocky Mountains eight times, and, in various trapping excursions, has explored nea. ly every river between the settle- ments of the United States and tlie Pacific ocean. The house of Dr. Marsli being fully occupied, we made our bedii in a shed, a short distance fnmi it. Suspended fn>m on« CATTLE HORSES. 305 of the poles forming the frame of this shed, was a portion of the carcass of a recently slaughtered beef. The meat was very fat, the muscular portions of it presenting that marbled ap- pearance, produced by a mixture of the fat and lean, so agree- able to the sight and palate of the epicure. The horned cattle of California which I have thus far seen, are the largest and the handsomest in shape which I ever saw. There is certainly no breed in the United States equalhng them in size. They, as well as the horses, subsist entirely upon the indigenous grasses, at all seasons of the year ; and such are the nutritious qualities of the herbage, that the former are always in condition for slaughtering, and the latter have as much flesh upon them as is desirable, unless (which is often the case) they are kept up at hard work and denied the privilege of eating, or are broken down by hard riding. The varieties of grass are very numer- ous, and nearly all of them are heavily seeded when ripe, and are equal if not superior, as food for animals, to com and oats. The horses are not as largre as the breeds of the United States, bat in point of symmetrical proportions and in capacity for en- durance, they are fully equal to our best breeds. The distance we have travelled to-day I estimate at thirty-five miles. Sept. 17. — The temperature of the mornings is most agree- able, and every other phenomenon accom-panying it is corre- spondingly delightful to the senses. Our breakfast consisted of warm bread, made of vmbolted flour, stewed beef, seasoned with chile Colorado, a species of red pepper, and frijoles, a dark- colored bean, with cofi"ee. After breakfast I walked with Dr. Marsh to the summit of a conical hill, about a mile distant from his house, from which the view of the plain on the north, south, and east, and the more broken and mountainous country on the west, is very extensive and highly picturesque. The hills and the plain are ornamented with the evergreen oak, sometimes in clumps or groves, at others standing solitary. On the summits, and in the gorges of the mountains, the cedar, pine, and fir, dis- play their tall, symmetrical shapes ; and the San Joaquin, at a distance of about ten miles, is belted by a dense forest of oak, sycamore, and smaller timber and shrubbery. The herds at 2«* 306 MR. litbrmore's ancho. cattle are scattered over the plain, — some of tliem grazing upon the brown, but nutritious graas ; others sheltering themselves from the sun, under the wide-spreading branches of the oaks. The toute ensemble of the landscape is charming, Lea\dng Dr. Marsh's about three o'clock, p. m., we travelled fifteen miles, over a rolling and well-watered country, covered generally with wild oats, and arrived at the residence of Mr. Robert Livermore just before dark. We were most kindly and hospitably received, and entertained by Mr. L., and his interest- ing family. After om- mules and baggage had been cared for, we were introduced to the principal room in the house, which consisted of a number of small adobe buildings, erected appa- rently at difterent times, and connected together. Here we found chairs, and for the first time in California, saw a side- board set out with glass tumblers, and chinaware. A decanter of aguardiente, a bowl of loaf-sugar, and a pitcher of cold water from the spring, were set before us ; and being duly honored, had a most re\dving influence upon oui" spirits as well as our corporeal energies. Suspended from the walls of the room were numerous coarse engra^^ngs, highly colored with green, blue, and crimson paints, representing the Vu-gin Mary and many of the saints. These engravmgs are held in great veneration by the devout Catholics of tliis country. In the cor- ners of the room were two comfortable-looking beds, with clean white sheets and pillow-cases, a sight with which my eyes have not been greeted for many months. The table was soon set out, and covered with a linen cloth of snowy whiteness, upon which were placed dislies of stewed beef, seasoned with chile Colorado, frijolcs, and a plentiful sup- ply of tortillas, with an excellent cup of tea, to the merits of which we did ample justice. Never were men blessed with better appetites tlian we are at the present time. Mr. Livermore has been a resident of CaUiornia nearly thirty years ; and having mai .-ied into one of the wealthy famihes of the coimtry, is the proprietor of some of the best lands for tillage and grazing. An arroyo, or small rivulet fed by springs, miu through his rancho, in uuch a course that, if expedient, he HISPANO-AMERICAN FAMILT. 30? ^ould, without much expense, irrigate one or two thousand acres. Irrigation in this part of California, however, seems to be entirely uimecessary for the production of wheat or any of the small grains. To produce maize, potatoes, and garden vegetables, irrigation is indispensable. Mr. Livermore has on his rancho about 3500 head of cattle. His horses, during the late disturbances, have nearly all been driven off or stolen by the Indians. I saw in his corral a flock of sheep numbering several hundred. They are of good size, and the mutton is said to be of an excellent quality, but the wool is coarse. It is, however, well adapted to the only manufacture of wool that is carried on in the country, — coarse blankets and serdpes. But little attention is paid to hogs here, although the breeds are as fine as I have ever seen elsewhere. Beef being so abundant, and of a quality so superior, pork is not prized by the native Californians. The Seiiiora L. is the first Hispano- American lady I have seen since arriving in the country. She was dressed in a white cambric robe, loosely banded round the waist, and without or- nament of any kind, except several rings on her small delicate fingers. Her complexion is that of a dark brunette, but lighter and more clear than the skin of most Californian women. The dark lustrous eye, the long black and glossy hair, the natural ease, grace, and vivacity of manners and conversation, charac- teristic of Spanish ladies, were fully -displayed by her from the moment of our introduction. The children, especially two or three little senoritas, were very beautiful, and manifested a re- markable degree of sprightliness and intelligence. One of them presented me with a small basket wrought from a species of tough grass, and ornamented with the plumage of birds of a variety of brilliant colors. It was a beautiful specimen of In- dian ingenuity. Retiring to bed about ten o'clock, I enjoyed, the first time for four months, the luxury of clean sheets, with a mattress and a soft pillow. My enjoyment, however, was not unmixed with re- gret, for I noticed that several members of the family, to ac- eommodate us with lodgings in the house, slept in the piana 308 SLAUGHTERING A BULLOCK. outside. To have objected to sleeping in the house, however would have been considered discourteous and offensive. September 18. — Early thi« morning a bullock was brought up and slaughtered in front of the house. The process of slaughteiing a beef is as follows : A vaquero, mounted on a trained horse, and provided with a lasso, proceeds to the place w here the herd is grazing. Selecting an animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the lasso over the horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of the saddle. During the first struggles of the animal for Uberty, which usually are very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and keeps his horse in such a position that the fury and strength of the beast are wasted without producing any other result than his own ex- haustion. The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot release himself from the rope, submits to be pulled along to the place of execution. Aniving^ here, the vaquero winds the lasso around the legs of the doomed beast and throws him to the ground, where he hes perfectly helpless and motionless. Dis- mounting from his horse, he then takes from his leggin the butcher-knife that he always carries with him, and sticks the animal in the throat. He soon bleeds to death, when, in an incredibly short space of time for such a performance, the car- cass is flayed and quartered, and the meat is either roasting be- fore the fire or simmering in the stewpan. The lassoing and slaughter of a bullock is one of the most exciting sports of the Californians ; and the daring horsemanship and dexterous use of the lariat usually displayed on these occasions are worthy ot admiration. I could not but notice the Golgotha-like aspect o the grounds surrounding the house. The bones of cattle were thickly strewn in all directions, showing a terrible slaughter of the four-footed tribe and a prodigious consumption of flesh. A carretada of fossil oystoi'-shells was shown me by Mr. Livermore, which had been hauled for the purpose of being manufactured into lime. Some of these shells were eight inches in If.ngth, and < f corresponding breadth and thickness. They were dug fiom a liill two or three miles distant, which is com- poeed almost entirely of this fossil. Several bones belonging FOSSIL SHELLS BON£S. 309 to the skeleton of a whale, discovered by Mr. L. on the summit of one of the highest elevations in the vicinity of his residence, were shown to me. The skeleton when discovered was nearly perfect and entirely exposed, and its elevation above the level of the sea between one and two thousand feet. How the huge aquatic monster, of which this skeleton is the remains, man- aged to make his dry bed on the summit of an elevated moun- tain, more experienced geologists than myself will hereafter determine. I have an opinion on the subject, however, but it is so contrary in some respects to the received geological theo- ries, that I will not now hazard it. Leaving Mr. Livermore's about nine o'clock, a. m., we travel- led three or four mUes over a level plain, upon which immense herds of cattle were grazing. When we a-pproached they fled from us, with as much alarm as herds of deer and elk. From this plain we entered a hilly coimtry, covered to the summits of the elevations with wild oats and tufts or bunches of a species of grass, which remains green through the whole sea- son. Cattle were scattered through these hills, and more sumptuous grazing they could not desire. Small streams of water, fed by springs, flow through the hollows and ravines, which, as well as the hill-sides, are timbered with the evergreen oak and a variety of smaller tress. About two o'clock, p. m., we crossed an arroyo which runs through a narrow gorge of the hills, and struck an artificial wagon-road, excavated and em- banked so as to afford a passage for wheeled vehicles along the steep hill-side. A little farther on we crossed a very rudely - constructed bridge. These are the first signs of road-making I have seen in the country. Eraei'ging from the hills, the southern arm of the Bay of San Francisco came in view, separated from us by a broad and fertile plain some ten or twelve miles in width, sloping gradually down to the shore of the bay, and watered by several small creeks and estuaries. We soon entered through a narrow street the mission of San Jose, or St. Joseph. Passing the squares of one-story adobe buildings, once inhabited by thousands of busy Indians, but nvjvr deserted, roofless, and crmnbling into riuns, we reached ilit 310 HOUSE OF ENTERTAINMENT. plaza in front of the chiircli and the massive two-story edificea occupied by the padres during the flourishing epoch of the es- tablishment. These were in good repair, but the doors and ^vindows with the exception of one were closed, and nothing of moving life was visible except a donkey or two, standing near a fountain which gushed its waters into a capacious stone trough. Dismounting from our mules, we entered the open door, and here we found two Frenchmen dressed in sailor costume, with a quantity of coarse shirts, pantaloons, stockings, and other small articles, together with aguardiente, which they designed re- tailing to such of the natives in the vicinity as chose to become their customers. They were itinerant merchants, or pedlers, and had opened their wares here for a day or two only, or so long as they could find purchasers. Having determined to remain here the residue of the day, and the night, we inquired of the Frenchmen if there was any family in the place that coiild furnish us with food. They di- rected us to a house on the opposite side of the plaza, to which we immediately repaired. The senora, a dark-skinned and rather shrivelled and filthy specimen of the fair sex, but with a black, sparkling, and intclligenl eye, met us at the door of the miserable hovel and invited us in. In one corner of this wretched and foul abode was a pile of raw hides, and in an- other a heap of wheat. The only furniture it contained were two small benches, or stools, one of which, being higher than the otlier, appeared to have been constructed for a table. Wc informed the senora that we were • travellers, and wished re- freshment and . lodgings for the night. " Est& hueno, senores, estd hueno" was her reply ; and slie immediately left us, and opening the door of the kitchen, commenced the preparation of our dinner. The interior of the kitchen, of which I had a good view tlirough the door, was more revolting in its filthiness than the room in which we were seated. In a short time, so tidustrious was our hostess, oiir dinner, consisting of two plates Df jerked beef, stewed, and seasoned with chile Colorado, a plate of tortillas, and a bowl of coffee, was set out upon the moet elevated stooL There were no knives, forks, or spoons MISSION OF ST. JOSEPH. 311 on the table. Our amiable landlady apologized for tbis de- ficiency of table furniture, saying that she was " muy pohre,^'' (very poor,) and possessed none of these table implements. " Fingers were made before forks," and in our recent travels we had learned to use them as substitutes, so that we found no difficulty in conveying the meat from the plates to our mouths. Belonging to the mission are two gardens, enclosed by high adobe walls. After dinner we visited one of these. The area of the enclosure contains fifteen or twenty acres of ground, the whole of which is planted with fruit-trees and grape-vines. There are about six hundred pear-trees, and a large number of apple and peach trees, all bearing fruit in great abimdance and in full perfection. The quality of the pears is excellent, but the apples and peaches are indifferent. The grapes have been gathered, as I suppose, for I saw none upon the vines, which appeared healthy and vigorous. The gardens are irrigated with very little trouble, from large springs which flow from the bills a short distance above them* Numerous aqueducts, for- merly conveying and distributing water over an extensive tract of land surroimding the mission, are still visible, but as the land is not now cultivated, they at present contain no water. The mission buildings cover fifty acres of ground, perhaps more, and are all constructed of adobes with tile roofs. Those houses or barracks which were occupied by the Indian families, are built in compact squares, one story in height. They are generally partitioned into two rooms, one fronting on the street, the other upon a court or corral in the rear. The main buildings of the mission are two stories in height, with wide corridors in front and rear. The walls are massive, and if pi-otected from the winter rains, will stand for ages. But if exposed to the storms by the decay of the projecting roofs, or by leaks in the main roof, they will soon crumble, or sink into shapeless heaps of mud. I passed through extensive warehouses and immense rooms, once occupied for the manufacture of woollen blankets and other articles, with the rude machinery still standing in them, but unemployed. FUth and desolation have taken the place of cleanliness and busy life. The granary was very ca- S1€ MISERABLE LODGINGS. pacious, and its dimensions were an evidence of the exuberant fertility of the soil, when properly cultivated under the super- intendence of the padres. The calaboose is a miserable dark room of two apartments, one with a small loophole in the wall the other a dungeon without light or ventilation. The stocks, and several other inventions for the punishment of offenders, are still standing in this prison, I requested per- mission to examine the interior of the church, but it was locked up, and no person in the mission was in possession of the key. Its length I should suppose is from one hundred to one hun- dred and twenty feet, and its breadth between thirty and forty, with small exterior pretensions to architectural ornament or symmetry of proportions. Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our landlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced as " mi madre" and two or three Indian mucha- ckas, or girls, clad in a costum^ not differing much from that of our mother Eve. The latter were obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filth standing upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. The two senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front of the house, busily engaged in executing some needlework. Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the night, and if he found strange men in '\\e house, he would be much oftended with her. She had there- fore directed her muchachas to sweep out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square, to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge during the night ; and as soon as the necessnry preparations were made, we retired to our dismal apartment. The " compound of villanous smells" which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night, augured unfavorably for repose. The place had evidently been the abode of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But with the aid of a dark-colored tallow-candle, which gave just light enough to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our rLEAS AND VERMIir. 313 beds in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance txavelled, 18 miles. CHAPTER XXV. Armies of fleas — Leave the mission — Clover — Wild mustard — A carreta — Family travelling — Arrive at Pueblo de San Jos^ — Capt. Fisher — De- scription of the Pueblo — The embarcadero — Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo — Absence of architectural taste in California — Town squir- rels — Fruit garden — Grapes — Tropical fruits — Gaming rooms — Contreist between Californian and American gamesters — Leave San Jos^ — Beautiful avenue — Mission of Santa Clara — Rich but neglected lands — Effects of a bad government — A seiiora on the road-side — Kindness of Californian women — Fast riding — Cruel treatment of horses — Arrive at the mission of San Francisco — A poor but hospitable family — Arrive at the town of San Francisco — W. A. LeidesdorfF, Esq., American vice- consul — First view of the Bay of San Francisco — Muchachos and Mu- chacas — Capt. Montgomery — U. S. sloop-of-war Portsmouth — Town of San Francisco ; its situation, appearance, population — Commerce ol California — Extortion of the government and traders. Sept. 19. — Several Calif ornians came into the mission during the night or early this morning ; among them the husband of our hostess, who was very kind and cordial in his greetings. - While our man Jack was saddhng and packing the mules, they gathered around us to the number of a dozen or more, and were desirous of trading their horses for articles of clothing ; articles which many of them appeared to stand greatly in need of, but which we had not to part from. Their pertinacity exceeded the bounds of civility, as 1 thought ; but I was not ia a good humor, for the fleas, bugs, and other vermin, which in- fested our miserable lodgings, had caused me a sleepless night, by goring my body until the blood oozed from the skin in count- less places. These ruinous missions are prolific generators, and the nurseries of vermin of all kinds, as tlie hapless traveller who tarries in them a few hours will learn to his sorrow. When 27 J14 CALirORMAN CARRIAGB. these bloodthirsty assailants once make a lodgment in the clothing or bedding of the imfortunate victim of their attacks, such are their courage and perseverance, that they never capitu- late. " Blood or death" is their motto ; — the war against them, to be successfiU, must be a war of extermination. Poor as our hostess was, she nevertheless was reluctant to receive any compensation for her hospitality. We, however, insisted upon her recei\ing a dollar from each of us, (dos pesos,] which she finally accepted ; and after shaking us cordially by the hand she bade us an afifectionate adios, and we proceeded • on our joui-ney. From the Mission of San Jose to the Pueblo of San Jos6, the distance is fifteen miles, for the most part over a level and highly fertile plain, producing a variety of indigenous grasses, among which I noticed several species of clover, and mus- tard, large tracts of which we rode through, the stalks varying from six to ten feet in height. The plain is watered by several arroyos, skirted vsdth timber, generally the evergreen oak. We met this morning a Californian carreta, or travel ling- cart, freighted with women and children, bound on a pleasure excur- sion. The carreta is the inidest specimen of the wheeled vehicle I have seen. The wheels are transverse sections of a loo", and are usually about 2^ feet in diameter, and varying in thickness from the centre to the rim. These wheels are coupled together by an axletree, into which a tongue is inserted. On the axle- tree and tongue rests a frame, constructed of square pieces of timber, six or eight feet in length, and foui or five in breadth, into which are inserted a number of stakes about four feet in length. Tliis frame- work being covered and floored with raw hides, the carnage is complete. The carreta which we met wa» drawn by two yokes of oxen, driven by an Indian vaquero, mounted on a liorse. In tlie rear were two caballeros, riding fine spirited horses, with gaudy trappings. They were dressed in steeple-crowned, glazed sombreros, serapes of fiery colors, velvet (cotton) calzoneros, white cambric calzoncillos, and leg- gins and shoes of imdressed leather. Their spurs were of im- mense HM. PTTEBLO SAN JOSE. 31fi The party halted as soon as we met them, the men touching their heavy sombreros, and uttering the usual salutation of the morning, " Buenos dias senores,'' and shaking hands with us very cordially. The same salutation was repeated by all the senoras and senoritas in the carreta. In dress and personal appearance the women of this party were much inferior to the men. Their skins were dark, sallow, and shrivelled, and their costume, a loose gown and reboso, were made of very common materials. The children, however, were all handsome, with sparkling eyes and nxddy complexions. Women and children were seated, d la Turqv£, on the bottom of the carreta, there being no raised seats in the vehicle. We arrived at the Pueblo de San Jose about 12 o'clock. There being no hotels in California, we were much at loss where to apply for refreshments and lodgings for the night. Soon, however, we were met by Captain Fisher, a native of Massachusetts, but a resident of this country for twenty years or more, who invited us to his house. We were most civilly received by Senora F., who, although she did not speak Eng- lish, seemed to understand it very well. She is a native of the southern Pacific coast of Mexico, and a lady of fine manners and personal appearance. Her eldest daughter, about thirteen years of age, is very beautiful. An excellent dinner was soon set out, with a variety of the native wines of California and other liquors. We could not have felt ourselves more happy and more at home, even at our own firesides and in the midst of our own families. The Pueblo de San Jose is a village containing some six or eight hundred inhabitants. It is situated in what is called the "Pueblo valley," about fifteen miles south of the southern shore of the Bay of San Francisco. Through a navigable creek vessels of considerable burden can approach the town within a distance of five or six miles. The embarcadero, or landing, I think, is six miles from the Pueblo. The fertile plain between this and the town, at certain seasons of the year, is sometimes inundated. The " Pueblo valley," which is eighty or one hun- dred miles in length, varying from ten to twenty in breadth, ii 816 PUEBLO SAN J0S£. well waterec by the Rio Santa Clara and numerous irroyoi and is one of the most fertile and picturesque plains in Califor- nia. For pastoral charms, fertility of soil, variety of produc- tions, and delicious voluptuousness of climate and scenery, it cannot be surpassed. This valley, if properly cultivated, would alone produce breadstuffs enough to supply miUions of popula- tion. The buildings of the Pueblo, with few exceptions, are constructed of adobes, and none of them have even the smallest pretensions to architectural taste or beauty. The church, which is situated near the centre of the town, exteriorly resembles a huge Dutch bam. The streets are irregular, every man having erected his house in a position most convenient to him. Aque- ducts convey water from the Santa Clara river to all parts of the town. In the main plaza hundreds, perhaps thousands, of squirrels, whose abodes are vmder ground, have their resi- dences. They are of a brownish color, and about the size of our common gray squirrel. Emerging from their subterraneous abodes, they skip and leap about over the plaza without the least concern, no one molesting them. The population of the place is composed chiefly of native Cali- fornian land-proprietors. Their ranches are in the valley, but their residences and gardens are in the town. We visited this afternoon the garden of Sefior Don Antonio Sunol. He received us with much politeness, and conducted us through his garden. Apples, pears, peaches, figs, oranges, and grapes, with other fiuits which I do not now recollect, were growing and i-ipening. The grape-vines were bowed to tlie ground with tlie luxuri- ance and weight of the yield ; and moie delicious fruit I never tasted. From the garden we crossed over to a flouring-mill re- cently erected by a son-in-law of Don Antonio, a Frenchman by birth. The mill is a creditable enterprise to the proprietor, and he will coin money from its operations. Tiie Pueblo de San Jose is one of the oldest settlements in Alta California. Captain Fisher pointed out to me a house built of iidobes, which has been standing between 80 and 90 yeait, and no house Id the place ap[)earcd to be more substan- tial or in better repair. A garrison, composed of marines from MISSION OF SANTA CLARA. 317 the United States ships and volunteers enlisted from the Ameri- can settlers in the country, is now stationed here. The post ia under the command of Purser Watmough, of the United States sloop-of-war Portsmouth, commanded by Captain Montgomery, During the evening I visited several public places, (bar-rooms,) where I saw men and women engaged promiscuously at the game of monte. / Gambling is a universal vice in California. All classes and both sexes participate in its excitements to some extent. The games, however, while I was present, were con- ducted with great propriety and decorum so far as the native Californians were concerned. The loud swearing and other turbulent demonstrations generally proceeded from the unsuc- cessful foreigners. I could not but observe the contrast be- tween the two races in this respect. The one bore their losses with stoical composure and indifference; the other announced each unsuccessful bet with profane imprecations and maledic- tions. Excitement prompted the hazards of the former, ava- rice the latter. September 20. — The morning was cloudy and cool ; but the clouds broke away about nine o'clock, and the sun shone from a vaporless sky, as usual. We met, at the Pueblo, Mr. Grove Cook, a native of Gerrard county, Ky., but for many years a resident of California. He is the proprietor of a rancho in the vicinity. We determined to leave our mules in charge of Mr. Cook's vaquero, and proceed to San Francisco on hired horses. The distance from the Pueblo de San Jose to San Francisco is called sixty miles. The time occupied in performing the jour- ney, on Californian horses at Californian speed, is generally six or seven hours. Procuring horses for the journey, and leaving our baggage, with the exception of a change of clothing, we left the Pueblo about eleven o'clock, a. m. The mission of Santa Clara is situated about two and a half miles from the town. A broad alameda, shaded by stately trees, (elms and willows,) planted by the padres, extends nearly the entire distance, forming a most beautifid drive or walk for equestrians or pedestrians. The motive of the padres in plant- mg this avenue, was to afiford the devout senoras and senoritaa 27* S18 BFFSCTS OF BAD GOVERNMENT. a shade from the sun, when walking from the Pueblo to the church at the mission to attend mass. A few minutes over the smooth, level road, at the rapid speed of oui- fresh Cahfomian horses, brought us to the mission, where we halted to make our observations. This mission is not so extensive in its buildbgs as that of San Jose, but the houses are generally in better repair. They are constructed of adobes. The church was open, and entering the interior, I found the walls hung with coarse paintings and engravings of the saints, etc., etc. The chancel is decorated with numerous images, and symbolical ornaments used by the priests in their worship. Gold-paper, and tinsel, in barbaric taste, are plastered without stint upon nearly every object that meets the eye, so that when on festive occasions the church is hghted, it must present a very ghttering appearance. The rich lands siiiTounding the mission are entirely neglected. I did not notice a foot of ground under cultivation, except the garden enclosure, which contained a variety of fruits and plants of the temperate and tropical climates. From want of care these a-re fast decaying. Some excellent pears were furnished us by Mrs. Bennett, an American lady, of amazonian propor- tions, who, with her family of sons, has taken up her residence in one of the buildings of the mission. The picture of decaj and ruin presented by this once flourishing establishment, sur- rounded by a country so feitUe and scenery so enchantiug, is a most melancholy spectacle to the passing traveller, and speaks a language of loud condemnation against the government. Proceeding on ovir journey, we travelled fifteen miles over a flat plain, timbered vvith groves and parks of evergreen oaks, and covered with a great variety of grasses, wild oats, and mus- tard. So rank is tlie growth of mustard in many places, that it is with difliculty tluit a horse can penetrate through it. Nu- merous birds flitted from tree to tree, making the groves musical with their harmonious notes. The black-tailed deer bounded frequently across our path, and the lurking and stealthy coyotes were continually in view. We liallcd at a small cabin, with a nmd near it, in oider to bieathe oht horses, and refresh our- CALIFORNIAN WOMEN. S19 selves. Captain Fisher had kindly filled a small sack with bread, cheese, roasted beef, and a small jug of excellent schie- dam. Entering the cabin, the interior of which was cleanly, we found a solitary woman, yoimg, neatly dressed, and displaying many personal charms. With the characteristic ease and grace of a Spanish woman, she gave the usual salutation for the hour of the day, " Buenos tardes senores caballeros ;" to which we re- sponded by a suitable salutation. We requested of our hostess some water, which she furnished us immediately, in an earthen bowl. Opening our sack of pronsions, we spread them upon the table, and invited the senora to partake of them with us, which invitation she accepted without the shghtest hesitation, and with much good-natm'e, vivacity, and even thankfulness for our politeness. There are no women in the world for whose manners natm-e has done so much, and for whom art and education, in this respect, have done so httle, as these Hispano- American females on the coast of the Pacific. In their deport- ment towards strangers they are queens, when, in costume, they are peasants. None of them, according to oiu* tastes, can be called beautiful ; but what they want in complexion and regu- larity of feature, is fully suppUed by their kindliness, the soul and sympathy which beam from their dark eyes, and their grace and warmth of manners and expression. While enjoying the pic-nic with our agreeable hostess, a caballada was driven into the corral by two vaqueros, and two gentlemen soon after came into the house. They were Messrs. Lightson and Murphy, from the Pueblo, bound for San Fran- cisco, and had stopped to change their horses. We immediately made ready to accompany them, and were soon on the road again, travelling at racehorse speed ; these gentlemen having furnished us with a change of horses, in order that we might be able to keep up with them. To account for the fast travelling in California on horseback, it is necessary to explain the mode by which it is accomplished. A gentleman who starts upon a jom-ney of one hundred miles, and wishes to perform the trip in a day, will take with birn ten fresh horses and a vaqueto. The eight cose horses are placed 320 RAPID TRAVELLING. under the charge of the vaquero, and are driven in front, at th« rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, according to the speed that is required for the journey. At the end of twenty miles, the horses which have been rode are discharged and turned into the caJballada, and horses which have not been rode, but driven along without weight, are saddled and mounted and rode at the same speed, and so on to the end of the journey. If a horse gives out from inabiUty to proceed at this gait, he is left on the road. The owner's brand is on him, and if of any value, he can be recovered without difficulty. But in California, no one thinks of stopping on the road, on account of the loss of a horse, or his iaability to travel at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour. Horseflesh is cheap, and the animal must go as long as he can, and when he cannot travel longer he is left, and another horse is substituted. Twenty-five miles, at a rapid gait over a level and fertile plain, brought us to the rancho of Don Francisco Sanchez, where we halted to change horses. Breathingf our animals a short time, we resumed our journey, and reached the mission of San Francisco Dolores, three miles from the town of San Francisco, just after sunset. Between the mission and the town the road is very sandy, and we determined to remain here for the night, corraling the loose animals and picketing those we rode. | It was some time, hoAvever, before we could find a house to lodge in. The foreign occupants of the mission build- ings, to whom we applied for accommodations for the night, gave us no satisfaction. After several applications, we were at last accommodated by an old and very poor Californian Span- iard, who inhabited a small house in one of the ruinous squares, formerly occupied by the operative Indians. All that he had (and it was but little) was at our disposal. A more miserable supper I never sat doAvn to ; but the spirit of genuine hospital- ity in which it was given, imparted to the poor viands a flavor that rendered the entertainment almost sumptuous — in my imagination. A cup of water cheerfully given to the weary and thirsty traveller, by him who lias no more to part wth, ia worth a cask of wine grudgingly bestowed by the stingy oi SAN FRANCISCO 321 the ostentatious (/hurl. Notwithstanding we preferred sleeping on our own blankets, these poor people would not suffer us to do it, but spread their own pallets on the earth floor of their miserable hut, and insisted so strongly upon our occupying them, that we could not refuse. September 21. — We rose at daylight. The morning was clear, and our horses were shivering with the cold. The mis* sion of San Francisco is situated at the northern terminus of the fertile plain over which we travelled yesterday, and at the foot, on the eastern side, of the coast range of mountains. These mountains are of considerable elevation. The shore of the Bay of San Francisco is about two miles distant from the mission. An arroyo waters the mission lands and empties into the bav. The church of the mission, and the mam buildings contiguous, are in tolerable repair. In the latter, several Mormon families, which arrived in the ship Brooklyn from New York, are quar tered. As in the other missions I have passed through, tho Indian quarters are crumblmg into shapeless heaps of mud. Our aged host, notwithstanding he is a pious Catholic and considers us as heretics and heathens, gave us his benedictior> in a very impressive manner when we were about to start Moimting our horses at sunrise, we travelled three miles ovei low ridges of sand-hills, with sufficient soil, however, to produce a thick growth of scrubby evergreen oak, and brambles of haw- thorn, wild currant and gooseberry bushes, rose-bushes, briers, etc. We reached the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Esq., late American vice-consul at San Francisco, when the sun was about an hour high. The morning was calm and beautiful. Not a ripple distiu'bed the placid and glassy surface of the magnificent bay and harbor, upon which rested at anchor thhty large ves- sels, consisting of whalemen, merchantmen, and the U. S. sloop- of-war Portsmouth, Captain Montgomery. Besides these, there were numerous small craft, giving to the harbor a commercia. air, of which some of the large cities on the Atlantic coast would feel vain. The bay, from the town of San Francisco due east, is about twelve miles in breadth. An elevated range of hills boxrnds the view on the opposite side. These slop* 328 CAPTAIN LEIDESLH)RFF. gradually down, and between them and the shore there is a broad and fertile plain, which is called the Contra Costa. There are several small islands ia the bay, but they do not present a fertile appearance to the eye. We were received with every mark of respectful attention and cordial hospitality by Mr, Leidesdorff. Mr. L. is a native of Denmark ; was for some years a resident of the United States ; but subsequently the captain of a merchant vessel, and has been established at this place as a merchant some five or six years. The house in which he resides, now under the pro- cess of completion, is the largest private building in the town. Bemg shown to a well-furnished room, we changed our travel- soiled clothing for a more civilized costume, by which time breakfast was announced, and we were ushered into a largre dining-hall. In the centre stood a table, upon which was spread a substantial breakfast of stewed and fried beef, fried onions, and potatoes, bread, butter, and coflFee. Our appetites were very sharp, and we did full justice to the merits of the fare be- fore us. The servants waiting upon the table were an Indian muchachito and muchachita, about ten or twelve years of age. They had not been long from their wild rancherias, and knew but little of cinlized life. Our host, however, who speaks, T believe, nearly every living language, whether of Christian, bar- barian, or savage nations, seemec determined to impress upon their dull intellects the forms and customs of civilization. He scolded them with great vivacity, sometimes in their own tongue, sometimes in French, Spanish, Portuguese, Danish, German, and Enghsh, in accordance with the language in which he was thinking at the moment. It seemed to me that the little fat Indians were more confused than enlightened by his emphatic instructions. At the table, besides ourselves and host, was Lieutenant W. A. Bartlett, of the U. S. sloop-of-war Ports- mouth, now acting as alcalde of the town and district of San Francisco. Tlie Portsmouth, Commander Montgomery, is the only Uni- ted States vessel of war now lying in the harbor. She is re- garded as the finest vessel of her class belonging to our narr TOWN OF SAN FRANCISCO. 323 By invitation of Lieutenant Bartlett, I went on board of her be- tween ten and eleven o'clock. The crew and officers were as- sembled on deck to attend Divine service. They were all dressed with great neatness, and seemed to listen with deep at- tention to the Episcopal service and a sermon, which were read by Commander Montgomery, who is a member of the church. In the afternoon I walked to the summit of one of the elevated hills in the vicinity of the town, from which I had a view of the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, and of the Pacific ocean. A thick fog hung over the ocean outside of the bay. The deep roar of the eternally restless waves, as they broke one after an- other upon the beach, or dashed against the rock-bound shore, could be heard with great distinctness, although some five or six miles distant. , The entrance from the ocean into the bay is about a mile and a half in breadth. The waters of the bay ap- pear to have forced a passage through the elevated ridge of hills next to the shore of the Pacific. These rise abruptly on either side of the entrance. The water at the entrance and in- side is of sufficient depth to admit the largest ship that was ever constructed ; and so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is the harbor, that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety in all kinds of weather. The capacity of the harbor is sufficient for the accommodation of all the navies of the world. The town of San Francisco is situated on the south side of the entrance, fronting on the bay, and about six miles from the ocean. The flow and ebb of the tide are sufficient to biing a vessel to the anchorage in front of the toAvn and to carry it outside, without the aid of wind, or even against an unfavor- able wind. A more approachable harbor, or one of greater security, is imknown to na\igators. The permanent population of the town is at this time between one and two hundred,* and is composed almost exclusively of foreigners. There are * This was in September, 1846. In June, 1847, when I left San Fran- cisco, on my return to the United States, the population had incieaMd to about twelve hundred, and houses were rising ia all directioM. 6fl4 TRADE OF CALIFORNIA. but two or three native Californian families in the place. The transient population, and at present it is quite numerous, con sists of the garrison of marines stationed here, and the officers and crews attached to tht merchant and whale ships lying in the harbor. The houses, w ith a few exceptions, are small adobes and frames, constructed without regard to architectural taste, convenience, or comfort. Veiy few of them have either chim- neys or fireplaces. The inhabitants contrive to live the year roimd Avithout fires, except for cooking. The position of San Francisco for commerce is, without doubt, superior to any othei port on the Pacific coast of North America. The country con- tiguous and tributary to it cannot be surpassed in fertility, healthfulness of climate, and beauty of scenery. It is capable of producing whatever is necessary to the sustenance of man, and many of the luxuries of tropical climates, not taking into the account the mineral wealth of the surrounding hills and mountains, which there is reason to believe is very great. This place is, doubtless, destined to become one of the largest and most opulent commercial cities in the world, and under Ameri- can authority it will rise with astonishing rapidity. The prin- cipal merchants now estabUshed here are Messrs. Leidesdorff, Grimes & Da\as, and Frank Ward, a young gentleman recently from New York. These houses carry on an extensive and profitable commerce with the interior, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon, and the southern coast of the Pacific. The produce of Oregon for exportation is flour, limiber, salmon, and cheese ; of the Sandwich Islands, sugar, coffee, and preserved tropical fruits. California, until recently, has had no commerce in the broad signification of the term. A few commercial houses of Boston and New York have monopolized all the trade on this coast for a number of years. These houses have sent out ships freighted with cargoes of dry goods and a variety of knick-knacks saleable in the country. The ships are fitted up for the retail sale of these articles, and trade from port to port, vending their wares on board to the rancheros at prices that would be astonishing at home. For ir^tance, I'ae price of common brown cot ton cloth TRADE OF CALIFORNIA. 7M is one dollar per yard, and other articles in thia and even great- er proportion of advance upon home prices. They receive in payment for their wares, hides and tallow. The price of a dry hide is ordinarily one dollar and fifty cents. The price of tal- low I do not know. When the ship has disposed of her cargo she is loaded with hides, and returns to Boston, where the hides bring about four or five dollars, according to the fluctuations of the market. Immense fortunes have been made by this trade ; and between the government of Mexico and the traders on the coast, California has been literally skinned, annually for the last thirty years. Of natural wealth the population of California possesses a superabundance, and are immensely rich ; still, such have been the extortionate prices that they have been compelled to pay for their commonest artificial luxuries and wearing ap- parel, that generally they are but indifferently provided with the ordinary necessaries of. civilized life. For a suit of clothes, which in New York or Boston would cost seventy-five dollars, the Californian has been compelled to pay five times that sunr in hides at one dollar and fifty cents ; so that a cahallero, tc clothe himself genteelly, has been obliged, as often as he re- newed his dress, to sacrifice about two hundred of the cattle on his rancho. No people, whether males or females, are more, fond of display ; no people have paid more deai-ly to gratify this vanity ; and yet no civilized people I have seen are so de- ficient in what they most covet. CHAPTER XXVI. Climate of Sau Francisco — Periodical winds — Dine on the Portsmouth — A supper party on shore — Arrival of Commodore Stockton at San Fran- cisco — Rumors of rebellion from the south — Californian court — Trial by jury — Fandango — Californian belles — American pioneers of the Pacific — Reception of Commodore Stockton — Sitga — Captain Fremont leaves San Francisco for the south — Offer our services as volunteers. Frch the 21st of September to the 13th of October I re- mained at San Francisco. The weather during this period wa» 26 826 CLIMATE OF SAN FRANCISCO. tiniformly clear. The clim .te of San Francisco is peculiar and local, from its position. During tlie summer and autumnal months, the wind on this coast blows from the west and Qorth- west, directly from the ocean. The mornings here are usually calm and pleasantly warm. About twelve o'clock, m., the wind blows strong from the ocean, through the entrance of the bay, rendering the temperature cool enough for woollen cloth- ing in midsummer. About sunset the wind dies away, and the evenings and nights are comparatively calm. In the winter months the wind blows in soft and gentle breezes from the southeast, and the temperature is agreeable, the thermometer rarely sinking below 50°. When the winds blow from the ocean, it never rains ; when they blow from the land, as they do durmg the winter and spring months, the weather is showery, and resembles that of the month of May in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. The coolness of the climate and briskness of the air above described, are confined to par- ticular positions on the coast, and the description in this re- spect is not apphcable to the interior of the coimtry, nor even to other localities immediately on the coast. On the 21st, by invitation of Captain Montgomery, I dined on board of the sloop-of-war Portsmouth. The party, in- cluding myself, consisted of Colonel Russell, Mr. Jacob, Lieu- tenant Bartlett, and a son of Captain M. There are few if any officers in our navy more highly and universally esteemed, foi their moral qualities and professional merits, than Captain M. He is a sincere Chiistian, a brave officer, and an accomplished gentleman. Under the orders of Commodore Sloat, he first raised the American flag in San Francisco. We spent the afternoon most agreeably, and the refined liospitality, courteous manners, and intellifjent and interestini; conversation of our host, made us regret the rapidly fleeting moments. The wines on the table were the produce of the vine of California, and having attained age, were of an excellent quality in substance and flavor. I attended a supper-party given this evening by Mr. Frank Ward. The party s^as composed of citizens of the town, and ▲BRIVAL OF COM. STOCKTON. 3S7 officers of the navy and the merchant and whale ships in th« harbor. In such a company as was here assembled, it was very diflScult for me to realize that I was many thousand miles from home, in a strange and foreign country. All the faces about me were American, and there was nothing in scene or sentiment to remind the guests of their remoteness from their native shores. Indeed, it seems to be a settled opinion, that Cahfomia is henceforth to compose a part of the United States, and every American who is now here considers himself as treading upon his ovm soil, as much as if he were in one of the old thirteen revolutionary states. Song, sentiment, story, and wit, heightened the enjoyments of the excellent entertainment of our host, and the jovial party did not separate until a late hour of the night. The guests, as may be supposed, were composed chiefly of gentlemen who had, from their pursuits, travelled over most of the world, — had seen developments of human character under every variety of circumstance, and ob- served society, civilized, barbarous, and savage, in all its phases. Their conversation, therefore, when around the convivial board, possessed an unhackneyed freshness and raciness highly enter- taining and instructive. On the 27th of September, the U. S. frigate Congress, Cap- tain Livingston, bearing the broad pennant of Commodore Stockton, and the U. S. frigate Savannah, Captain Mervine, anchored in the harbor, ha\dng sailed from Monterey a day or two previously. The arrival of these large men-of-war pro- duced an increase of the bustle in the small town. Blue coats and bright buttons (the naval uniform) became the prevailing costume at the billiard-rooms and other public places, and the plain dress of a private citizen might be regarded as a badge of distinction. On the 1st of October a courier arrived from the south with intelhgence that the Californians at Los Angeles had organized a force and rebelled against the authority of the Americans, — ' that they had also captured an American merchant-vessel lying at San Pedro, the port of the city of Angels, about thirty miles distant, and robbed it of a quantity of merchandise and specie 328 TRIAL BT JURT. Whether this latter report was or was not true, I do not kno^ • — ^the former \ as correct. The frigate Savannah sailed fof Los Angeles imjiediately. Among those American naval officers whose agreeable ac- quaintance I made at San Francisco, was Mr. James F. Schenck, first-lieutenant of the frigate Congress, brother of the distin- guished member of congress from Ohio of that name, — a native of Dayton, Ohio, — a gentleman of intelligence, keen wit, and a most accompUshed officer. The officers of our navy are our representatives in foreign countries, and they are generally such representatives as their constituents have reason to feel proud of. Their chivalry, patriotism, gentlemanlike deportment, and professional skill, cannot be too much admired and applauded by their countrymen. I shall ever feel grateful to the naval officers of the Pacific squadron, for their numerous civilities during my sojourn on the Pacific coast. Among the novelties presented while at San Francisco, was a trial by jury — the second tribunal of this kind which had been organized in California. The trial took place before Judge Bartlett, and the litigants were two Mormons. Counsel was employed on both sides. Some of the forms of American judicial proceedings were observed, and many of the legal technicalities and nice flaws, so often urged in common-law courts, were here argued by the learned counsel of the parties, with a vehemence of language and gesticulation with which I thought the legal learning and acumen displayed did not cor- respond. The proceedings were a mixture, made up of com- mon law, equity, and a sprinkling of military despotism — which last ingredient the court was compelled to employ, when en- tangled in the intricate meshes woven by the counsel for the litigants, in order ta extricate itself. The jury, after the case was referred to them, were what is called "hung;" they could not agree, and the matters in issue, therefore, remained exactly where they were before the proceedings were commenced. I attended one evening a fandango given by Mr. Ridley, an English gentleman, whose wife is a Oalifoi-nian lady. Severa« of the heiioras ard senoritas fioin the ranches of the \icinity CALIFORNIA BELLES MR. GRIMES. 329 «rere present. The Californian ladies dance with much ease and grace. The waltz appears to be a favorite with them. Smoking is not prohibited in these assemblies, nor is it confined to the gentlemen. The cigarita is freely used by the senoraa and senoritas, and they puff it with much gusto while threading the mazes of the cotillon or swinging in the waltz. I had the pleasure of being introduced, at the residence of Mr. Leidesdorff, to two young ladies, sisters and belles in Alta California. They are members of an old and numerous family on the Contra Costa. Theh names are singular indeed, for if I heard them correctly, one of them was called Donna Maria Jesus and the other Donna Maria Conception. They were in- teresting and graceful young ladies, with regular featui'es, symmetrical figures, and their dark eyes flashed with all the intelhgence and passion characteristic of Spanish women. Among the gentlemen with whom I met soon after my arri val at San Francisco, and whose acquaintance I afterwards cultivated, were Mr. E. Grimes and Mr. N. Spear, both nati^s of Massachusetts, but residents of this coast and of the Pacific Islands, for many years. They may be called the patriarchs of American pioneers on the Pacific. After formmg an ac- quaintance with Mr. G., if any one were to say to me that *' Old Grimes is dead, that good old man," I should not hesitate to contradict him with emphasis ; for he is still living, and possesses all the charities and virtues which can adorn human nature, with some of the eccentricities of his namesake in the song. By leading a life of peril and adventure on the Pacific ocean for fifty years he has accumulated a large fortune, and is a man now proverbial for his integrity, candor, and charities. Both of these gentlemen have been largely engaged in the local commerce of the Pacific. Mr. S., some twenty-five or thirty years ago, colonized one of the Cannibal Islands, and remained upon it with the colony for nearly two years. The attempt to introduce agriculture into the island was a failure, and the enterprise was afterwards abandoned. 28* 830 RECEPTION OF COM. STOCKTON. On the evening of the thu-d of October, it having been an- nounced that Commodore Stockton woidd land on the fifth, a public meeting of the citizens was called by the alcalde, for the purpose of adopting stiitable armngements for his reception, in his civic capacity as governor. The meeting was convened m the plaza, (Portsmouth-square.) Col. Russell was appointed chairman, and on motion of E. Bryant a committee was ap- pointed to make all necessary and suitable arrangements for the reception of his excellency. Governor Stockton. The following account of this pageant I extract from the " Calif ornian" news- paper of October 24th, 1846. " Agreeable to public notice, a large number of the citizens of San Francisco and vicinity, assembled in Portsmouth-square for the pm"pose of meeting His Excellency Robert F. Stockton, to welcome his arrival, and offer him the hospitahties of the city. At ten o'clock, a procession was formed, led by the Chief Marshal of the day, supported on either hand by two aids, fol- Ipwed by an excellent band of music — a militaiy escort, imder command of Captain J. ZeUen, U. S. M. C. — Captain John B. Montgomery and suite — Magistracy of the District, and the Orator of the day — Foreign Consuls — Captain John Paty, Senior Captain of the Hawanian Navy — Lieutenant-Command- ing Ruducoff, Russian Nav'y, and Lieutenant- Commanding Bonnett, French Navy. The procession was closed by the Committee of Arrangements, Captains of ships in port, and a long line of citizens. " General Mariano Guadaloupe Vallejo, with several others who had held office under the late government, took their ap- propriate place in the line. " The procession moved in fine style down Portsmouth-street to the landing, and formed a line in Water-street. The Gov- ernor-General landed frcm liis barge, and was met on the wharf by Captain John B. Montgomery, U. S. N., Judge W. A. Bartlett, and Marshal of the day, (Frank Ward,) who con- ducted liim to the front of the line, and presented him to the procession, through the orator of the day, Colonel Russell, whrj •ddresHed the Commodore." DINNER AND BALL. 331 When the governor and commander-in-chief had closed hi? reply, the procession moved through the principal streets and halted in front of Captain Leidesdorff's residence, where the governor and suite entered, and was presented to a number of ladies, who welcomed him to the shores of California. After which a large portion of the procession accompanied the gov- ernor, on horseback, to the mission of San Francisco Dolores, several miles in the country, and returned to an excellent colla- tion prepared by the committee of arrangements, at the house of Captain Leidesdorflf, After the cloth was removed, the usual number of regular toasts prepared by the committee of ar- rangements, and numerous volunteer sentiments by the mem- bers of the company, were drank with many demonstrations of enthusiasm, and several speeches were made. In response to a complimentary toast. Commodore Stockton made an eloquent address of an hour's length. The toasts given in English were translated into Spanish, and those given in Spanish were trans- lated into EngUsh. A ball in honor of the occasion was given by the committee of arrangements in the evening, which was attend- ed by all the ladies native and foreign in the town and vicinity, the naval officers attached to the three ships of war, and the captains of the merchant vessels lying in the harbor. So seduc- tive were the festivities of the day and the pleasures of the dance, that they were not closed until a late hour of the night, or rather until an early hour in tlie morning. Among the numerous vessels of many nations at anchor in the harbor, is a Russian brig from Silca, the central port of the Russian- American Fur Company, on the northwestern coast of this continent. She is commanded by Lieutenant Ruducoff of the Russian navy, and is here to be freighted with wheat to supply that settlement with breadstuff. Sitca is situated in a high northern latitude, and has a population of some four or five thousand inhabitants. A large portion of these, I conjec- ture, are christianized natives or Indians. Many of the crew of this vessel are the aborigines of the country to which she be- longs, and from which she last sailed. I noticed, however, from an inscription, that the brig was built at Newbury 832 RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY. port, Massachusetts, showing that the autocrat of all the Russias is tributary, to some extent, to the free Yankees of New England for his naval equipment. On the 11th of Octo- ber, by invitation of Lieutenant RuducofF, in company of Mr. Jacob and Captain Leidesdorff, I dined on board this vessel. The Russian customs are in some respects peculiar. Soon after we reached the vessel and were shown into the cabin, a lunch was served up. This consisted of a variety of dried and smoked fish, pickled fish-roe, and other hyperborean pickles, the nature of which, whether animal or vegetable, I could not determine. Various wines and liquors accompanied this lunch, the discus- sion of which lasted until an Indian servant, a native of the north-pole, or thereabouts, announced dinner. We were then shown into a handsomely-furnished dining cabin, where the ta- ble was spread. The dinner consisted of several courses, some of which were peculiarly Russian or Sitcan, and I regret that my culinary knowledge is not equal to the task of describing them, for the benefit of epicures of a more southern region than the place of their invention. They were certainly very delightful to rhe palate. The afternoon glided away most agreeably. On the 12th of October, Captain Fremont, with a number of volunteers destined for the south, to co-operate with Commo- dore Stockton in the suppression of the reported rebellion at Los Angeles, arrived at San Francisco from the Sacramento. I had previously offered my services, and Mr. Jacob had done the same, to Commodore Stockton, as volunteers in this expedition, if they were necessary or desirable. They were now repeated Although travellers in the country, we were American citizens, and felt under obligations to assist in defending the flag of out country wherever it had l ?e» planted by proper authority At this time we were given o understand that a larger forct than was already organized, 'as not considered necessary for the expedition. , VOYAGE ACROSS THB BAT ^98 CHAPTER XXVII. LeavA San FranciBCO for Sonoma — Sonoma creek — " Bear meji" — Island* m the bay — Liberality of Uncle Sam to sailors — Sonoma — Beautiful coun- try- -General Vallejo — Senora Valldjo — Thomas O. Larkin, U. S. Con- sul — Signs of rain — The seasons in California — More warlike rumors from the south — Mission of San Rafael — An Irish ranchero — Sausolito — Return to San Erancisco — Meet Lippincott — Discomfort of Californian houses. October 13. — This morning the United States frigate Con- gress, Commodore Stockton, and the merchant-ship Sterhng, employed to transport the volunteers under the command of Captain Fremont, (one hundred and eighty in number,) sailed for the south. The destination of these vessels was understood to be San Pedro or San Diego. While these vessels were leaving the harbor, accompanied by Mr. Jacob, I took passage for So- noma in a cutter belonging to the sloop-of-war Portsmouth. Sonoma is situated on the northern side of the Bay of San Fran- cisco, about 15 miles from the shore, and about 45 miles from the town of San Francisco. Sonoma creek is navigable for ves- sels of considerable burden to within four miles of the town. Among the passengers in the boat, were Mr. Ide, who acted so conspicuous a part in what is called the " Bear Revolution," and MessKS. Nash and Grigsby, who were likewise prominent in this movement. The boat was manned by six sailors and a cockswain. We passed Yerba Buena, Bird, and several other small islands in the bay. Some of these are white, as if covered with snow, from the deposite upon them of bird-manure. Tens of thousands of wild geese, ducks, gidls, and other water-fowls w^re perched upon them, or spoiling in the waters of the bay, making a prodigious cackling and clatter with their voices and wings. By the aid of oars and sails we reached the mouth of Sonoma creek about 9 o'clock at night, where we lauded and encamped on the low marsh which borders the ba) 'iSt ** trwcLE sam" and his sailors." on this side. The marshes contiguous to the Bay of San Fran- cisco are extensive, and with little trouble I believe they could be reclaimed and transformed into valuable and productive rice plantations. Having made our supper on raw salt-pork and bread generously furnished by the sailors, as soon as we landed, we spread our blankets on the damp and rank vegetation, and slept soundly until morning. October 14. — Wind and tide being favorable, at daylight we proceeded up the serpentine creek, which winds through a flat and fertile plain, sometimes marshy, at others more elevated and dry, to the emharcadero, ten or twelve miles from the bay. We landed here between nine and ten o'clock, a. m. All the pas- sengers, except oiu'selves, proceeded immediately to the town. By them we sent for a cart to transport our saddles, bridles, blan- kets, and other baggage, which we had brought with us. While some of the sailors were preparing breakfast, others, with their muskets, shot wild geese, with which the plain was covered An excellent breakfast was prepared in a short time by oui sailor companions, of which we partook with them. No benevo- *lent old gentleman provides more bountifully for his servants than " Uncle Sam." These sailors, from the regular rations served out to them from their ship, gave an excellent breakfast, of bread, butter, coffee, tea, fresh beefsteaks, fried salt-pork, cheese, pickles, and a variety of other dehcacies, to which we had been unaccustomed for several months, and which cannot be obtained at present in this country. They all said that ilicir rations were more than ample in quantity, and excellent in ([uality, and that no government was so generous in supplying its sailors as the government of the United States. They ap- peared to be happy, and contented with tlieir condition and ser- vice ; and animated with a patriotic pride for the honor of theii country, and the flag under which they sailed. The open frank- ness, and honest patriotism of these single-hearted and weatljer- beaten tars, gave a spice and flavor to our entertainment which [ shall not soon forget. From the emharcadero we walked, under the influence of the x\y» of an almusi broiling sun, four miles to the town of Sonoma. SONOMA 3S6 rhe plain whicli lies between the landing and Sonoma, is tim- bered sparsely with evergreen oaks. The luxuriant grass is no^ brown and crisp. The hills surrounding this beautiful valley or plain, are gentle, sloping, highly picturesque, and covered tc their tops with wild oats. Reaching Sonoma, we procured lodgings in a large and half-finished adobe house, erected by Don Salvador Vallejo, but now occupied by Mr. Griffith, an American emigrant, originally from North Carohna. Sonoma is one of the old mission establishments of California ; but there is now scarcely a mission building standing, most of them having fallen into shapeless masses of mud ; and a few years will pros- trate the roofless walls which are now standing. The principal houses in the place are the residences of Gen. Don Mariano Guadaloupe Vallejo, his brother-in-law, Mr. J. P. Leese, an American, and his brother, Don Salvador Vallejo. The quartel, a barn-like adobe house, faces the pubhc square. The town presents a most dull and ruinous appearance ; but the country surrounding it is exuberantly fertile, and romantically picturesque, and Sonoma, under American authority, and with an American population, will very soon become a secondary commercial point, and a delightful residence. Most of the buildings are erected around a plaza, about two hundred yards square. The only ornaments in this square are numerous skulls and dislocated skeletons of slaughtered beeves, with which hideous remains the ground is strewn. Cold and warm springs gush from the hills near the town, and supply, at all seasons, a sufficiency of water to irrigate any required extent of ground on the plain below. I noticed outside of the square several groves of peach, and other fruit-trees, and vineyards, which were planted here by the padres ; but the walls and fences that once surrounded them are now fallen, or have been consumed for fuel ; and they are exposed to the mercies of the immense herds of cattle which roam over and graze upon the plain. October 15. — I do not hke to trouble the reader with a fre- quent reference to the myriads of fleas and other vermin which infest the rancherias and old mission estabhshments in California; but if any sinning soul ever suffered the punishments of piirga 336 6EN. VALLEJO. lory before leaving its tenement of clay, those torments were endured by myself last night. When I rose from my blankets this morning, after a sleepless night, I do not think there was an inch-square of my body that did not exhibit the inflammation consequent upon a puncture by a flea, or some other equally rabid and poisonous insect. Smallpox, erysipelas, measles, and scarlet-fever combined, could not have imparted to my skin a more inflamed 'and sanguineous appearance. The multitudes of these insects, however, have been generated by Indian filthiness. riiey do not disturb the inmates of those casas where cleanliness prevails. Ha\'ing letters of introduction to General Vallejo and Mr. Leese, I delivered them this morning. General Vallejo is a native Californian, and a gentleman of intelhs^ence and taste far superior to most of his countrymen. The interior of his house presented a diff"erent appearance from any house occupied by native Cahfornians which I have entered since I have been in the country. Every apartment, even the main entrance-hali and corridors, were scrupulously clean, and presented an air of comfort which I have not elsewhere seen in California. The parlor was furnished with handsome chairs, sofas, mirrors, and tables, of mahogany framework, and a fine piano, the first I have seen in the country. Several paintings and some superioi" engravings ornamented the walls. Senora Vallejo is a lady of charming personal appearance, and possesses in the highest degree that natural grace, ease, and warmth of manners which render Spanish ladies so attractive and fascinating to the stran- ger. The children, some five or six in number, were ail beautiful and interesting. General V. is, I believe, strongly desirous that the United States shall retain and annex California. He is thor- oughly disgusted with Mexican sway, which is fast sending his country backwards, instead of forwards, n the scale of civiliza- tion, and for years he has been desirous of the change whicli has now taken place. In the afternoon we visited the house of Mr. Leese, which is also furnished in American style. Mr. L. is the proprietor of :^ rineyard in the virinity of the (own, and we were regaled upon MR. LARKIN SIGNS OF RAIN. 337 grapes, as luscious, I dare say, as the forbidden fruit that provoked the first transgression. Nothing of the fruit kind can exceed the delicious richness and flavor of the California grape. This evening Thomas 0. Larkin, Esq., late United States Con- sul for California, arrived liere, having left San Francisco on the same morning that we did, travelling by land. Mr. L. resides in Monterey, but I had the pleasure of an introduction to him at San Francisco several days previous to my leaving that place. Mr. L. is a native of Boston, and has been a resident in California for about fifteen years, during which time he has amassed • a large fortune, and from the changes now taking place he is rapidly increasing it. He will probably be the first American millionaire of CaUfornia. October 1*7. — The last two mornings have been cloudy and cool. The rainy season, it is thought by the weather-wise in this climate, will set in earlier this year than usual. The period- ical rains ordinarily commence about the middle of November Tt is now a month earlier, and the meteorological phenomen;^ portend "falhng weather." The rains during the winter, in California, are not continuous, as is generally supposed., It sometimes rains during an entire day, without cessation ; but most generally the weather is showery, with intervals of bright sunshine and a delightful temperature. The first rains of the year fall usually in November, and the last about the middle of May. As soon as the ground becomes moistened, the grass, and other hardy vegetation, springs up, and by the middle of December the landscape is arrayed in a robe of fresh verdure. The grasses grow through the entire winter, and most of them mature by the first of May. The season for sowing wheat com- mences as soon as the ground is sufficiently softened by moisture to admit of plowing, and continues until March or April. We had made preparations this morning to visit a rancho belonging to General Vallejo, in company with the general and Mr. Lai'kin. This rancho contains about eleven leagues of land, bordering upon a portion of the Bay of San Francisco, twenty- five or thirty miles distant from Sonoma. Just as we wer* 29 S38 PETALUMA — SAN RAFAEL. about mounting our horses, towever, a courier arrived from San Francisco with dispatches from Captain Montgomery, addressed to Lieutenant Revere, the military commandant at this post, giving such intelligence in regard to the insurrection at the south, that we determined to return to San Francisco forthwith Procuring horses, and accompanied by Mr. Larkin, we left Sonoma about two o'clock in the afternoon, riding at the usual CalifoiTiia speed. After lea\ang Sonoma plain we crossed a ridge of hills, and entered the fertile and picturesque valley of Petaluma creek, which empties into the bay. General Vallejn has an extensive rancho in this valley, upon which he has recently erected, at great expense, a very large house. Archi- tecture, however, in this country is in its infancy. The money expended in erecting this house, which presents to the eye no tasteful architectural attractions, would in the United States have raised a palace of symmetrical proportions, and adorned it with every requisite ornament. Large herds of cattle were grazing in this valley. From Petaluma valley we crossed a high rolling country, and reached the mission of San Rafael (forty-five miles) between seven and eijjht o'clock in the eveninsr. San Rafael is situated two or three miles from the shore of the bay, and commands an extensive -view of the bay and its islands. The mission buildings are generally in the same ruinous condition I have before de- scribed. We put up at the house of a Mr. Murphy, a scholastic Irish bachelor, who has been a resident of California for a num- ber of years. His casa, when we arrived, was closed, and it was with some difficulty that we could gain admission. When the occupant of the house had ascertained, from one of the loopholes of the building, who we were, however, the doors were soon unbarred and we were admitted, but not Avithout many sallies of Irish wit, sometimes good-natured, and some- times keenly caustic and ironical. We found a table spread with cold mutton and cold beef upon it. A cup of coffee was Boon prepared by the Indian rruchachos and muchachas, and our host hrouglit out some scheidara and aguardiente. A draught or two of these liquids seemed to correct the acidity oi SAUSOLITO. 839 his humor, and he entertained us with his jokes and conversation several hours. October 18. — From San Rafael to Sausolito, opposite San Francisco on the north side of the entrance to the bay, it is five leagues, (fifteen mUes,) generally over elevated hills and through deep hollows, the ascents and descents being frequent- ly steep and laborious to om* animals. Starting at half-past Beven o'clock, we reached the residence of Captain Richardson, the proprietor of Sausolito, about nine o'clock in the morning. In travelling this distance we passed some temporary houses, erected by American emigrants on the mission lands, and the rancho of Mrs. Reed, a widow. We immediately hired a whale- boat from one of the ships lying here, at two dollars for each passenger, and between ten and eleven o'clock we landed in San Francisco. I met, soon after my arrival, Mr. Lippincott, heretofore men- tioned, who accompanied us a portion of the distance over the mountains ; and Mr. Hastings, who, with Mr. Hudspeth, con- ducted a party of the emigrants from Fort Bridger by the new route, via the south end of the Salt lake, to Mary's river. From Mr. Lippincott I learned the particulars of an engage- ment between a party of the emigrants (Captain West's com- pany) and the Indians on Mary's ri\^er, which resulted, as has before been stated, in the death of Mr. Sallee and a dangerous arrow wound to Mr. L. He had now, however, recovered from the effects of the wound. The emigrants which accom- panied Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth, or followed their trail, had all reached the valley of the Sacramento without any material loss or disaster. I remained at San Francisco from the 18th to the 22d of October. The weather during this time was suflBciently cool to render fires necessary to comfort in the houses; but fireplaces or stoves are luxuries which but few of the San Franciscans have any knowledge of, except in their kitchens. This deficiency, however, will soon be remedied. American settlers here vn\] not build houses without chimneys. They would as soon plan a hoose without % door, or with the entrance upon its roof, in 340 ANOTHER VOYAGE. imitation of the architecture of the Pueblo Indiana of Nen Mexico. CHAPTER XXVIII. Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia — Aa appeal to the alcalde — Kanackas^^Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro — Straits of Carquinez — Town of Francisca — Feather-beds furnished by nature — Mouth of the Sacramento — Islands — Delaware Tom — A man who has forgotten his mother tongue — Salmon of .the Sacramento — Indian fisher- men — Arrive at New Helvetia. October 22. — Having determined to make a trip to Nueva Helvetia by water, for the purpose of examining more particu- larly the upper portion of the bay and the Sacramento river, in conjunction with Mr. Larkin, we chartered a small open sailboat for the exctu-sion. The charter, to avoid disputes, was regularly drawn and signed, with all conditions specified. The price to be paid for a certain number of passengers was thirty-two dollars, and demurrage at the rate of twenty-fi\'e cents per hour for all delays ordered by the charter-party, on the trip upwards to Nueva Helvetia. The boat was to be ready at the most convenient landing at seven o'clock this morning, but when I called at the place appointed, with oui baggage, the boat was not there. In an hour or two the skip- per was found, but refused to comply with his contract. We immediately laid our grievance before the alcalde, who, after reading the papers and hearing the statements on both sides, ordered the skipper to perform what he liad agreed to perform, to which decision he reluctantly assented. In order to facili- Uite matters, I paid the costs of the action myself, although the Kuccessful litigant in the suit. Wf left San Francisco about two o'clock, p. m., and crossing the moutli of the bay, boa»ded a Mexican schooner, a prize captured by the U. S. sloop-of-war Cyane, Captain Dupont KANACKAS. 34 1 which had entered the hay this morning and anchored in front of Sausolito. The prize is commanded by Lieutenant Ren- shaw, a gallant officer of our navy. Our object in boarding the schooner was to learn the latest news, but she did not bring much. We met on board the schooner Lieutenant Hunter of the Portsmouth, a chivalrous officer, and Lieutenant Ruducoff. commanding the Russian brig previously mentioned, whose vessel, preparatory to sailing, was taking in water at Sausolito, Accepting of his pressing imitation, we visited the brig, and took a parting glass of wine with her gallant and gentlemanly commander. About five o'clock, p. m., we proceeded on our voyage. At eight o'clock a dense fog hung over the bay, and the ebb-tide being adverse to our progress, we were compelled to find a landing for our small and frail craft. This was not an easy matter, in the almost impenetrable darkness. As good luck would have it, however, after we had groped about for some time, a light was discovered by our skipper. He rowed the boat towards it, but grounded. Hauling off, he made another attempt with better success, reaching within hailing distance of the shore. Tlie light proceeded from a cam"p-fire of three Kanacka (Sandwich island) runaway sailors. As soon as they ascertained who we were and what we wanted, they stripped themselves naked, and wading through the mud and water to the boat, took us on their shoulders, and carried us high and dry to the land. Tlie boat being thus lightened of her burden, was rowed farther up and landed. The natives of the Sandwich islands (Kanackas, as they are called) are, without doubt, the most expert watermen in the world. Their performances in swimming and diving are so ex- traordinary, that they ma)^ almost be considered amphibious in their natures and instincts. Water appears to be as much their natural element as the land. They have straight black hair, good features, and an amiable and intelligent expression of counte- nance. Their complexion resembles that of a bright mulatto • and in syrametrical proportions and muscular developments. they will advantageously compare ^vith any race of men I hav* 29* 342 STRAITS OF CARQUINEI leen. The crews of many of the whale and merchant sUps oB this coast are partly composed of Kanackas, and they are justly esteemed as most valuable sailors. October 23. — The damp, raw weather, 'auguring the near ap- proach of the autumnal rams, contmues. A diizzhng mist fell on us dming the night, and the clouds were not dissipated when we resumed our voyage this morning. Passing througl. the straits of San Pablo and San Pedro, we entered a di\'ision of the bay called the Bay of San Pablo. Wind and tide being in our favor, we crossed this sheet of water, and afterwards entered and passed through the straits of Carquinez. At these straits the waters of the bay are compressed within the breadtli of a mile, for the distance of about two leagues. On the south- em side the shore is hilly, and cartoned in some places. The northern shore is gentle, the hUls and table-land slopmg grad- ually down to the water. We landed at the bend of the straits of Carquinez, and spent several hours in examining the country and soundings on the northern side. There is no timber here. The soil is covered with a growth of grass and wild oats. The bend of the straits of Carquinez, on the northern side, has been thought to be a favorable position for a commercial town. It has some advantages and some disadvantages, which it would be tedious for me now to detail. [Subsequently to this my first visit here, a town of extensi^'e dimensions has been laid off by Gen. Vallejo and Mr. Semple, the proprietors, under the name of "Fra»cisca." It fronts for two or three raUes on the " Soeson,^' the upper di\'ision oi the Bay of San Francisco, and the straits of Carquinez. A feiry has also been established, which crosses regularly from shore to shore, conveying travellers over the bay. I crossed, myself and horses, here in June. 1847, when on my return to the United States. Lots had then been offered to settlers on favorable conditions, and preparations, I imderstood, were maldng for the erection of a number of houses.] About sunset, we resumed our voyage. Tlie wjnd having lulled, we attempted to stem the adverse tide by the use ol oars, but the ebb of the tide was stronger than the propelling MOUTH OF THE SACRAMENTO. 343 force of our oars. Soon, in spite of all our exertions, we found ourselves drifting rapidly backwards, and after two or three hours of hard labor in the dark, we were, at last, so fortunate as to effect a landing in a cove on the southern side of th€ straits, having retrograded several miles. In the cove there is a small sandy beach, upon which the waves have dcifted and deposited a large quantity of oat-straw, and feathers shed by the millions of water-fowls which sport upon the bay. On thif downy deposite furnished by nature, we spread our blankets and slept soundly, October 24. — We proceeded on our voyage at daylight coasting along the southern shore of the Soeson. About nin< o'clock we landed on a marshy plain, and cooked breakfast. A range of mountains bounds this plain, the base of which is several miles from the shore of the bay. These moimtains, although of considerable elevation, exhibit signs of fertihty to their simamits. On the plain, numerous herds of wild cattle were grazing. About two o'clock, i'. m., we entered tht mouth of the Sacramento. The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers empty into the Bay of San Francisco at the same point, about sixty miles from the Pacific, and by numerous mouths, or sloughs as they are here called. These sloughs wind through an immense timbered swamp, and constitute a terraqueous laby- rinth of such intricacy, that unskilful and inexperienced naviga- tors have been lost for many days in it, and some, I have been told, have perished, never finding their way out. A range of low sloping hills approach the Sacramento a short distance above its mouth, on the left-hand side as you ascend, and run parallel with the stream several miles. The banks of the river, and several large islands which we passed during the day, are timbered with sycamore, oak, and a variety of smaller trees and shi-ubbery. Numerous grape-vines, climbing over the trees, and loaded down with a small and very acid fruit, give to the forest a tangled appearance. The islands of the Sacramento are all low, and subject to overflow in the spring of the year. ITie soil of the river bottom, including the islands, is covered iritb rank vegetation, a certain evidence of its fertility Th« 344 WALLA-WALLA INDIANS. water, at this season, is perfectly limpid, and a_tbougli the tid* ebbs and flows more than a hundred miles above the mouth of the river, it is fresh and sweet. The channel of the Sacramento is remarkably free from snags and other obsti-uctions to navi- gation. A more beautiful and placid stream of water I never saw. At twelve o'clock at night, the ebb tide being so strong that we found ourselves drifting backwards, with some difficulty we effected a landing on one of the islands, clearing a way through the tangled brush and Aines with our hatchets and knives. Lighting a fire, we bivouacked until daylight. October 25. — Continuing our voyage, we landed about nine o'clock, A. M., at an Indian rancheria, situated on the bank of the river. An old Indian, his wife, and two or three cliildren, were all the present occupants of this rancheria. The woman was the most miserable and emaciated object I ever beheld. She was probably a victim of the " sweat-house." Surrounding the rancheria were two or three acres of ground, planted with maize, beans, and melons. Purchasing a quantity of water and muskmelons, we re-embarked and pursued our voyage. As we ascended the stream the banks became more elevated, the countiy on both sides opening into vast savamias, dotted occa- sionally with parks of evergreen oak. The tide turning against us again about eleven or twelve o'clock, we landed at an encampment of Walla -Walla Indians, a portion of the party previously refej'red to, and reported to have visited California for hostile purposes. Among them was a Delaware Indian, knewn as " Delaware Tom," who speaks Eng- lish as fluently as any Anglo-Saxon, and is a most gallant and honorable Indian. Several of the party, a majority of whom were women and chiliren, were sick with chills and fever. The men were engaged in hunting and jerking deei' and elk meat. Throwing our hooks, baited with fresli meat, into the river, we soon drew out small fish enougli for dinner. I^he specimens of Walla- Wallas at this encampment are far superior to the Indians of California in features, figure, and in- telligence Their complexion is much lighter, and their fea- SALMON OF THE SACRAMENTO. 34^ tures more regular, expressive, and pleasing. Men aui! women were clothed in dressed skins. The men were armed with rifles. At sunset we put our little craft in motion again, and at one o'clock at night landed near the cabin of a German emigrant named Schwartz, six miles below the embarcadero of New Hel- vetia. The cabin is about twenty feet in length by twelve in breadth, constructed of a light, rude frame, shingled with tule. After gaining admission, we found a fire blazing in the centre of the dwelhng on the earth-floor, and suspended over us were as many salmon, taken from the Sacramento, as could be placed in position to imbibe the preservative qualities of the smoke. Our host, Mr. Schwartz, is one of those eccentric human phenomena rarely met with, who, wandering from their own na- tion into foreign countries, forget their own language without acquiring any other. He speaks a tongue (language it cannot be called) pecuhar to himself, and scarcely intelhgible. It is a mixture, in about equal parts, of German, English, French, Spanish, and rancheria Indian, a compounded polyglot or lin- gual pi — each syllable of a word sometimes being derived from a difierent language. Stretching ourselves on the benches smTOimding the fire, so as to avoid the drippings from the pendent salmon, we slept until morning. October 26. — Mr. Schwartz provided us with a breakfast of fried salmon and some fresh milk. Coffee, sugar, and bread we brought with us, so that we enjoyed a luxurious repast. Near the house was a shed contaming some forty or fifty barrels of pickled salmon, but the fish, from their having been badly put up, were spoiled. Mr. Schwartz attempted to explain the particular causes of this, but I could not understand him. The salmon are taken with seines dragged across the channel of the river by Indians in canoes. On the bank of the river the Indians were eating their breakfast, which consisted of a large fresh salmon, roasted in tlie ashes or embers, and a kettle of atdle, made of acom-meal. The salmon was four or five feet in length, and when taken out of the fire and cut open, presented a most tempting appearance. The Indians wenj al] 346 SDPFEKINGis UK MR. REED. nearly naked, and most of them having been wading in the water at daylight to set their seines, were shivering with the cold whilst greedily devouring their morning meal. We reached the emharcadero of New Helvetia about eleven o'clock, A. M., and finding there a wagon, we placed our bag- ••age m it and walked to the fort, about two and a half miles. CHAPTER XXIX. Disastrous news from the south — Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey — Call for volunteers — Volunteer our services — Leave New Helvetia — Swimming the Sacramento — First fall of rain — Beautiful and romantid valley — Precipitous mountains — Deserted house — Arable land of Cali fornia — Fattening qualities of the acorn — Lost in the Coast Mountains- Strange Indians — Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread — ludiat, guide — Laguna — Rough dialogue — Hunters' camp — " Old Greenwood"— Grisly bear meat — Greenwood's account of himself — His opinion of the Indians and Spaniards — Retrace our steps — Severe storm — Nappa valley — Arrive at Sonoma — More rain — Arrive at San Fram^isco — Return to New Helvetia. I REMAINED at the fort from the 27th to the 30th of October. On the 28th, Mr. Reed, whom I have before mentioned as be- longing to the rear emigrating party, arrived here. He left his party on Mary's river, and in company vdth one man crossed the desert and the mountains. He was several days without pro- visions, and when he arrived at Johnson's, was so much ema- ciated and exhausted by fatigue and famine, that he could scarcely walk. His object was to procure provisions immediately, and to transport them with pack -mules over the mountains for the relief of the suffering emigrants behind. He had lost all of his cattle, and had been compelled to cache two of his wag-^ ons and most of his property. Captain Sutter generously fur- nished the requisite quantity of mules and horses, with Indian raqueros, and jerked meat, and flour. This is the second ex- oedition for the relief cf the emigrants he has fitted out sinoe MORE RUMORS OF WAR. 84** JUT arrival iu the country. Ex-governor Boggs and family reached Sutter's Fort to-day. On the evening of the 28tli, a courier arrived with letters from Colonel Fremont, now at Monterey. The substance of the intelligence received by the courier was, that a large force of Califomians (varying, according to different reports, from five to fifteen hundred strong) had met the marines and sailors, four hundred strong, under the command of Captain Mer^dne, of the U. S. frigate Savannah, wlio had landed at San Pedro for the purpose of marching to Los Angeles, and had driven Captain Mervine and his force back to the sliip, with the loss, in killed, of six men. That the towns of Angeles and Santa Barbara had been taken by the insurgents, and the American garrisons there had either been captured or had made their escape by retreat- ing. What had become of them was unknown.* Colonel Fremont, who I before mentioned had sailed with a party of one hundred and eighty volunteers from San Francisco to San Pedro, or San Diego, for the purpose of co-operating with Commodore Stockton, after ha\dng been some time at sea, had put into Monterey and landed his men, and his purpose now was to increase his force and mount them, and to proceed by land to Los Angeles. On the receipt of this intelligence, I immediately drew up a paper which was signed by myself, Messrs. Reed, Jacob, Lip- pincott, and Grayson, offering our services as volunteers, and our exertions to raise a force of emigrants and Indians which would be a sufficient reinforcement to Colonel Fremont. This paper was addressed to Mr. Kern, the commandant of Fort Sacramento, and required his sanction. The next morning (29th) he accepted of our proposal, and the labor of raising the vohmteers and of procuring the necessary clothing and sup- plies for them and the Indians was apportioned. It commenced raining on the night of the twenty-eighth, and * The garrison under Captain Gillespie, at Los Angeles, capitulated. The garrison at Santa Barbara, under Lieutenant Talbot, marched out iu defiance of the enemy, and after suffering many hardships arrived in safety tt Monterey. 348 RAISING VOLUNTEERS the raiii fell heavily and steadily until twelve o'clock, m., on the twenty-ninth. This is the first fall of rain since March last. About one o'clock, p. m., the clouds cleared away and the weather and temperature were delightful. Abovit twelve o'clock, on the 30th, accompanied by Mr. Grayson, I left New Helvetia. We crossed the Sacramento at the emharcadero, swimming our horses, and passing ourselves over in a small canoe. The method of swimming horses over so broad a stream as the Sacramento is as follows. A light canoe, or " dug-out," is manned by three persons, one at the bow, one at the stem, and one m the centre ; those at the bow and stern have paddles, and propel and steer the craft. The man in the centre holds the horses one on each side, keeping their heads out of water. When the horses are first forced into the deep water they struggle prodigiously, and sometimes upset the canoe ; but when the canoe gets fairly imder way, they cease their resistance, but snort loudly at every breath to clear their mouths and nostrils of the water. Proceeding ten miles over a level plain, we overtook a com- pany of emigrants bomid for Nappa valley, and encamped with them for the night on Puta creek, a tributary of the Sacra- mento. Five of the seven or eight men belonging to the com- pany enrolled their names as volunteers. The grass on the western side of the Sacramento is very rank and of an excellent quality. It commenced raining about two o'clock on the morning of the 31st, and continued to rain and mist all day. We crossed from Putu to Cache ci'cek, i-eaching the residence of Mr. Gordon (25 miles) about three o'clock, i'. m. Here we enrolled several additional emigrants in our list of volunteers, and theii travelled fifteen miles up the creek to a small log-house, occu pied temporarily by some of the younger members of tht family of Mr. Gordon, who emigrated from Jackson count). Mo., this year, and by Mrs. Grayson. Here we remained during the night, glad to find a shelter and a fire, for we were drenched to our skins. On the morninu: of the 1st of Novcmljcr the sun shoDiS ont ROMANTIC VALLEYS. 349 warm and pleasant. The birds were singing, chattering;, and flitting from tree to tree, through the romantic and pictm-esque valley where we had slept during the night. The scenery and its adjuncts were so charming and enticing that I recommenced my travels with reluctance. No scenery can be more beautiful than that of the small valleys of California. Ascending the range of elevated moimtains which border the Cache creek, we had a most extensive view of the broad plain of the Sacramento, stretching with islands and belts of timber far away to the south as the eye could penetrate. The gorges and summits of these mountains are timbered with large puies, firs, and cedars, with a smaller growth of magnolias, manzani- tas, hawthorns, etc., etc. Travelling several miles over a level plateau, we descended into a beautiful valley, richly carpeted with grass and timbered with evergreen oak. Proceeding across this three or four miles, we rose another range of mountains, and travelling a league along the summit ridge, we descended through a crevice in a steep rocky precipice, just sufficient in breadth to admit the passage of our animals. Our horses were frequently compelled to slide or leap down nearly perpendicular rocks or stairs, until we finally, just after sunset, reached the bottom of the mountain, and found ourselves in another level and most fertile and picturesque valley. We knew that in this valley, of considerable extent, there was a house known as " Barnett's," where we expected to find quarters for the night. There were nimaerous traUs of cattle, horses, deer, and other wild animals, crossing each other in ever)'' direction through the live-oak timber. We followed one of the largest of the cattle trails untU it became so blind that we could not see it. Taking another, we did the same, and the result was the same : another and another, with no better suc- cess. We then shouted so loud that our voices were echoed and re-echoed by the surrounding mountains, hoping if there were any inhabitants in the valley, that they would respond to ua. There was no response, — all was silent when the sound of our voices died away in the gorges and ravines ; and at ten o'clock at night we encamped under the wide-spreading branches of aft 30 350 DB8ERTED HOUSE ARABLE LAND. oak, having travelled about 40 miles. Striking a fire and heap- ing upon it a large quantity of wood, which blazed brightl), displaying the gothic shapes of the surrounding oaks, we pick- eted our animals, spread our blankets, and slept soundly. It rained several hours during the night, and in the morning a dense fog filled the valley. Saddling our animals, we searched along the foot of the next range of mountains for a trail, but could find none. Returning to our camp, we proceeded up the valley, and struck a trail, by following which two mUes, we came to the house, (Barnett's.) The door was ajar, and en- tering the dwelling we found it tenantless. The hearth was cold, and the ashes in the jambs of the large fireplace were baked. In the corners of the building there were some frames, upon which beds had b'een once spread. The house e^^dently had been abandoned by its former occupants for some time. The prolific mothers of several families of the swinish species, with their squealing progenies, gathered around us, in full expecta- tion, doubtless, of the dispensation of an extra ration, which we had not to give. Having eaten nothing but a crust of bread for 24 hours, the inclination of our appetites was strong to draw upon them for a ration ; but for old acquaintance sake, and be- cause they were the foreshadowing of the " manifest destiny," they were permitted to pass without molestation. There were two or three small enclosiu-es near the house, where corn and wheat had been planted and harvested this year ; but none of the product of the harvest could be found in the empty house, or on the place. Dismounting from our horses at a limpid spring-branch near the house, we slaked our thirst, and made our hydropathical breakfast from its cool and delicious water. Altliough the trail of the valley did not run in our course, still, under the expectation that it would soon take another di- rection, we followed it, passing over a fertile soil, sufficientl)' timbered and watered by several small streams. The quan-. tily of arable land in California, I believe, is much greater than lias generally been supposed from the accounts of the . country given by travellers who have visited only the parts on the Pacific, and liome it^ of the missions. Most of the mcuntain MOUNTAINS AND VALLEYS. 35 nJIeys between the Sierra Nevada and the coast are exube- rantly fertile, and finely watered, and will produce crops of all kinds, while the hUls are covered with oats and grass of the most nutritious qualities, for the sustenance of cattle, horses, and hogs. The acorns which fall from the oaks are, of themselves, a rich annual product for the fattening of hogs ; and during the period of transition (four or five weeks after the rains commence falling) from the dry grass to the fresh growth, horses, mules, and even horned cattle, -mostly subsist and fatten upon these large and oleaginous nuts. We left the valley in a warm and genial sunshine, about 1 1 o'clock, and commenced ascending another hia:h mountain, timbered as those I have previously described. When we reached the summit we were enveloped in clouds, and the rain was falling copiously, and a wintry blast drove the cold element to our skins. Crossing this mountain three or four miles, we descended its steep sides, and entered another beautiful and romantic hollow, divided as it were into various apartments by short ranges of low conical hills, covered to their summits with grass and wild oats. The grass and other vegetation on the level bottom are very rank, indicating a soil of the most prolific quaUties. In winding through this valley, we met four In- dians on foot, armed with long bows, and arrows of corre- sponding weight and length, weapons that I have not previousl)'- seen among the Indians. Their complexions were lighter than those of the rancheria Indians of California. They evidently belonged to some more northern tribe. We stopped them to make inquiries, but they seemed to know nothing of the country, nor could we learn from them from whence they came or where they were going. They were clothed in dressed skins, and two of them were highly rouged. Ascending and descending gradually over some low hills, we entered another circular valley, through which flows a stream, the waters of which, judging from its channel, at certain sea- sons are broad and deep. The ground, from the rains that have recently fallen and are now falling, is very soft, and we had difficulty in urging our tired animals across this valley. We 352 INE N RANCHERIA. soon discovered fresh cattle signs, and afterwards a large herd grazing near the stream. Farther on, we saw five old and mis- erably emaciated Indian women, gathering grass-seed for bread. This process is performed with two baskets, one shaped like a round shield, and the other having a basin and handle. With the shield the top of the grass is brushed, and the seed by the motion is thrown into the deep basket held in the other hand. The five women appeared at a distance hke so many mowers cutting down the grass of a meadow. These women could give us no satisfaction in response to inquiries, but pointed over the river, indicating that we should there find the casa and ranckeria. They tlien continued theh work with as much zeal and industry as if their lives were dependent upon the proceeds of theh labor, and I suppose they were. Crossing the river, we struck a trail which led us to the casa and ranckeria, about two miles distant. The casa was a small adobe building, about twelve feet square, and was locked up. Finding that admission was not to be gained here, we hailed at the ranckeria, and presently some dozen squalid and naked men, women, and children made then" appearance. We inquired for the mayor domo, or overseer. The chief speaker signified that he was absent, and that he did not expect him to return until several suns rose and set. We then signified that we were hungry, and very soon a loaf made of pulverized acorns, min- gled with wild fruit of some kind, was brought to us with a basket of water. These Indians .manufacture small baskets which are impervious to water, and they are used as basins to diink from, and for other purposes. I knew that we had been travelling out of our course all day, and it was now three o'clock, p. m. Rain and mist had succeeded each other, and the sun was hidden from us by dark and threatening mas ?es of clouds. We had no compass with us, and could not determine the course to Nappa valley or Sonoma. Believing that the Indian would have some know- ledge of the latter place, we made him comprehend that we wished to go there, and mquired the route. He pointed in a direction which he signified would take us to Sonoma. We ROUGH CUSTOMERS. 353 pointed in another course, which it seemed to us was the right one. But he persisted in asserting that he was right. After some further talk, for the shirt on my back he promised to guide us, and placing a ragged skin on one of our horses, he mounted the animal and led the way over the next range of hills. The rain soon poured down so hard upon the poor fel- low's bare skin, that he begged permission to return, to which we would not consent ; but out of compassion to him, I took off my overcoat, with which he covered his swarthy hide, and seemed highly delighted with the shelter from the pitiless storm it afforded him, or with the supposition that I mtended to present it to him. Crossing several elevated and rocky hills, just before sunset, we had a view of a large timbered valley and a sheet of water, the extent of which we could not compass with the eye, on account of the thickness of the atmosphere. When we came in sisfht of the water, the Indian uttered various exclamations of pleasure ; and although I had felt but little faith in him as a pilot from the first, I began now to think that we were ap proaching the Bay of San Francisco. Descending into the valley, we travelled along a small stream two or three miles, and were continuing on in the twilight, when we heard the tinkling of a cow-bell on the opposite side of the stream. Certain, from this sound, that there must be an encampment near, I halted and hallooed at the top of my voice. The halloo called forth a similar response, with an interrogation in Eng- lish, " Who the d — 1 are you — Spaniards or Americans ?" " Americans.'' " Show yourself, then, d — n you, and let us see the color of your hide," was the answer. " Tell us where we can cross the stream and you shall soon see us," was our reply. " Ride back and follow the sound of my voice, and be d — d to you, and you can cross the stream with a deer's jump." Accordingly, following the sound of the voice of this rough colloquist, who shouted lepeatedly, we rode back in the dark several hundred yards, and plunging into the stream, the chan- nel of which was deep, we gained the other side, where "we 30* 354 trappers' cami found three men standing ready to receive us. We soon dis covered them to be a party of professional hunters or trappers, at the head of which was Mr, Greenwood, a famed mountaineer; commonly known as "Old Greenwood.' Th;y invited us tc their camp, situated across a small opening in the timber about half a mile distant. Ha\'ing unsaddled our tired animals and tm-ned them loose to graze for the night, we placed our bag- gage under the cover of a small tent, and taking our seats by the huge camp-fire, made known as far as was expedient our business. We soon ascertained that we had ridden the entire day (about 40 miles) directly out of our course to Nappa val- ley and Sonoma, and that the Indian's information was all wronsf. We were now near the shore of a larare lake, called the Laguna by Californians, some fifty or sixty miles in length, which lake is situated about sixty or seventy miles north of thf Bay of San Francisco ; consequently, to-morrow we shall be com- pelled to retrace our steps and find the trail that leads from Barnett's house to Nappa, which escaped us this morning. Wo received such directions, however, from Mr. Greenwood, tha* we could not fail to find it. We found in the camp, much to our gratification after a long fast, an abundance of fat, grisly bear-meat, and the most deli- cious and tender deer-meat. The camp looked hke a butcher's stall. The pot filled with bear-flesh was boiled again and again, and the choice pieces of the tender venison were roasting, and disappearing with singular rapidity for a long time. Bread there was none of course. Such a delicacy is unknown to the mountain trappers, nor is it much desired by them. The \unting party consisted of Mr. Gieenwood, Mr. Turner, Mr. Adams, and three sons of Mi. G., one grown, and the other two boys 10 or 12 years of age, half-breed Indians, the mothei being a Crow. One of these boys is named " Governor Boggs," after ex-governor Boggs of Missouri, an old friend of the fa- ther. Mr. Greenwood, or " Old Greenwood," as he is famil- iarly called, according to his own statement, is 83 years of age. and has been a mountain trap{)cr between 40 and 50 yenrs He lived among the Crow Itidiaus, where he married his infe " OLD GREENWOOD-'* 856 between thirty and forty years. He is about six feet in height, raw-boned and spare in flesh, but muscular, and notwithstanding his old age, walks with all the ei-ectness and elasticity of youth. His dress was of tanned buckskin, and from its appearance one would suppose its antiquity to be nearly equal to the age of its wearer. It had probably never been off his body since he first put it on. " I am," said he, " an old man — eighty-three years — it is a long time to live ; — eighty -three years last , I have seen all the Injun varmints of the Rocky Mountains, — have fout them — lived with them. I have many children — I don't know how many, they are scattered ; but ray wife was a Crow. The Crows are a brave nation, — the bravest of all the Injuns ; they fight like the white man ; they don't kill you in the dark like the Black-foot varmint, and then take your scalp and run, the cow- ardly reptiles. Eighty-three years last ; and yet old Green- wood could handle the rifle as well as the best on 'em, but for this infernal humor in my eyes, caught three years ago in biing ing the emigrators over the de-sart." (A circle of scarlet sur- jounded his weeping eyeballs.) " I can't see jist now as well as I did fifty years ago, but I can always bring the game or the slinking and skulking Injun. I have jist come over the mountains from Sweetwater with the emigrators as pilot, living upon bacon, bread, milk, and sich like mushy stuff. It don't agree with me; it never will agree with a man of my age, eighty-three last ; that is a long time to live. I thought I would take a small hunt to get a little exarcise for my old bones, and some good fresh meat. The grisly bear, fat deer, and poultry, and fish — them are such things as a man should eat. I came up here where I knew there was plenty. I was here twenty years ago, before any white man see this lake and the rich land about it. It's filled with bisf fish. Thar's beer-springs here, better than them in the Rocky Mountains ; thar's a mountain of solid biimstone, and thar'a mines of gold and silver, all of which I know'd many years ago, and I can show them to you if you will go with me in the morning. These black-skinned Spaniards have rebel'd again. Wall, they can make a fuss, d — m 'em, and have revolutions every year, but they can't fight. It's no use to go arter *em, 356 MOUNTAIN SWEARING. unless when you ketch 'em you kill 'em They won't stand an fight like men, an' when they can't figl.t longei' give up ; bul the skared varmints run away and then make another fuss, d — m 'em " Such was the discourse of our host. The camp consisted of two small tents, which had probably been obtained from the emigrants. They were pitched so as to face each other, and between them there was a large pile of blazing logs. On the trees surrounding the canap were stretclied the skins of various animals which had been killed in the hunt ; some preserved for their hides, others for the fur. Bear-meat and venison enough for a winter's supply were hanging from the limbs. The swearins: of Turner, a man of immense frame and muscular power, during our evening's conversation, was almost terrific. I had heard mountain sAvearing before, but his went far beyond all former examples. He could do aU the swearing for our army in Mexico, and then have a surplus. The next morning, (Nov. 3d,) after partaking of a hearty breakfast, and suspending from our saddles a sufficient supply of venison and bear-meat for two day's journey, we started back on our own trail. We left our miserable Indian pilot at his ranchena. I gave him the shirt from my back, out of com- passion for his sufferings, — he well deserved a dressing of another kind. It rained all day, and when we reached Bar- nett's (the empty house) about four o'clock, p. m., the black masses of clouds which hung over the valley portended a storm so furious, that we thought it prudent to take shelter under a roof for the night. Securing our animals in one of the enclosures, we encamped in the deseited dwelling. The storm soon commenced, and raffed and roared with a fierceness and strength rarely witnessed. The hogs and pigs came squealing about tlie door for admission ; and the cattle and horses in the valley, terrified by the violence of elemental battle, ran back- wards and forwards, bellowing and snorting. In comfortable quarters, we roasted and enjoyed our bear-meat and venison, and left the wind, rain, liglitning, and thunder to play their pranks as best suited them, which they did all night. On the morning of the fourth, we found the trail described to HAPPA VALLEY WET LODGINGS. 357 05 by Mr. Greenwood, and crossing a ridge of mountains, de- scended into the valley of Nappa creek, which empties into the Bay of San Francisco just below the straits of Carquinez. This is a most beautiful and fertile valley, and is already occupied by several American settlers. Among the first who established themselves here is Mr. Yount, who soon after erected a flouring- mill and saw-mUl. These have been in operation several years. Before reaching Mr. Yount's settlement we passed a saw-mill more recently erected, by Dr. Bale. There seems to be an abundance of pine and red-wood (a species of fir) in the canadds. No lumber can be superior for building purposes than that sawed from the red-wood. The trees are of immense size, straight, free from knots and twists, and the wood is soft, and easily cut with plane and saw. Arriving at the residence of Dr. Bale, in Nappa valley, we were hospitably entertained by him, with a late breakfast of coflFee, boiled eggs, steaks, and tortillas, served up in American style. Leaving Nappa, after travelling down it some ten or twelve miles, we crossed anothei ranofe of hills or mountains, and reached Sonoma after dark, o\ir clothing thoroughly drenched with the rain, which, with intermissions, had fallen the whole day. I put up at the same quarters as when here before. The house was covered with a dilapidated thatch, and the rain dripped through it, not leaving a dry spot on the floor of the room where we slept. But ther^ was an advantage in this, — the inundation of water had coel pletely discomfited the army of fleas that infested the building when we were here before. It rained incessantly on the fifth. Col. Russell arrived at Sonoma early in the morning, having arrived from San Fran- cisco last night. Procuring a boat belonging to Messrs. Howard 6 Melius, lying at the embarcadero, I left for San Francisco, but owing to the storm, and contrary winds, did not arrive there until the morning of the seventh, being two nights and a day in the creek, and ckurning on the bay. Purchasmg a quantity of clothing, and other suppUes for volunteers, I sailed early on the morning of the eighth for New Helvetia, in a boat belonging to tbe sloop-of-war Portsmouth, manned by U. S. sailors, under 358 ARRIVAL AT NEW HELVETIA. the command of Midshipman Byres, a native of Maysville, Ky We encamped that night at the head of "Soeson," having sailed about fifty miles in a severe storm of wind and rain. The Mraves frequently dashed entirely over our httle craft. The rain continued during the ninth, and we encamped at night above the mouth of the Sacramento. On the night of the tenth we encamped at " Merritt's camp," the rain stUl falling, and the river rising rapidly, rendering navigation up-stream impossible, except with the aid of the tide. On the night of the eleventli we encamped fifteen mUes below New Helvetia, still raining. On the morning of the twelfth the clouds cleared away, and the sim burst out warm and spring-like. After having been ex- posed to the rain for ten or twelve days, without having the clothing upon me once, dry, the sight of the sun, and the in- fluence of his beams, were cheering and most agreeable. We arrived at New Helvetia about twelve o'clock. CHAPTER XXX. Leave New Helvetia — Pleasant weather — Meet Indian volunteers — Tule- boats — Engagement between a party of Americans and Califomians — • Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster — Capture of Thomas O. Lar- kin — Reconnaissance — San Juan Bautista — Neglect of the dead — Large herds of cattle — Join Col. Fremont. On my arrival at New Helvetia, I found there Mr. Jacob Mr, Reed had not yet returned fiom tlie mountains. Nothing had been heard from Mr. Lippincott, or Mr. Grayson, since I left the latter at Sonoma. An autliorized ngont of Col. Fremont had arrived at the foi-t the day that I left it, with power to take the caballada of public horses, and to enroll volunteers for the ex- pedition to the south. He had left two or three days before my Arrival, taking witli liim all the horses and trappings suitable for service, and all the men who had previously raidezvoused at the fort, numbering about sixty, as T understood. At my request INDIAN VOLUNTEERS. 359 messengers were seat by Mr. Kern, commandant of the fort, and by Captain Sutter, to the Indian chiefs on the San Joaquin river and its tributaries, to meet me at the most convenient points on the trail, witli such warriors of their tribes as chose tc volunteer as soldiers of the United States, and perform military service during the campaign. I believed that they would be useful as scouts and spies. On the 14th and 15th eight men (emigrants who had just arrived in the country, and had been enrolled at Johnson's settlement by Messrs. Reed and Jacob) arrived at the fort ; and on the morning of the 16 th, with these, we started to join Colonel Fremont, supposed to be at Monte- rey ; and we encamped at night on the Cos(}umne river. The weather is now pleasant. We are occasionally drenched with a shower of rain, after which the sun shines warm and bright ; the fresh grass is springing up, and the birds sing and chatter in the groves and thickets as we pass through them. I rode forward, on the morning of the l7th, to the Michelemes river, (twenty-five miles from the CosQumne,) where I met Antonio, an Indian chief, with twelve warriors, who had assem- bled here for the purpose of joining us. The names of the wai'- riors were as follows : — Santiago, Masua, Kiiibu, Tocoso, Nonelo, Michael, Weala, Arkell, Nicolas, Heel, Kasheano, Estephen. Our party coming up in the afternoon, we encamped here for thf day, in order to give the Indians time to make further prepara- tions for the march. On the 18th we met, at the ford of the San Joaquin river, another party of eighteen Indians, inclu- ding their chiefs. Their names were — Jose Jesus, Filipe, Ray- raundo, and Carlos, chiefs; Huligaiio, Bonefasio, Francisco, Nicolas, Pablo, Feliciano, San Antonio, Polinario, Manuel, Gra- \iano, Salinordio, Romero, and Merikeeldo, warriors. The chiefs and some of the warriors of these parties were partially clothed, but most of them were naked, except a small garment around the loins. They were armed with bows and arrows. We en- camped with our sable companions on the east b.ink of the San Joaquin. The next morning (Nov. 19) the river being too high to ford, we constructed, by the aid of the Indians, tule-boats, upon whkh 360 A BATTLE. our baggage was ferried over the stream. The tule-boat con- sists of bundles of tule firmly bound together with willow withea, When completed, in shape it is not unlike a small keel-boat. The buoyancy of one of these craft is surprising. Six men, aa many as could sit upon the deck, were passed over, in the largest of our three boats, at a time. The boats were towed backwards and forwards by Indian swimmers — one at the bow and one at the stern as steersman, and two on each side as propellers. The poor fellows, when they came out of the cold water, trembled as if attacked with an ague. We encamped near the house of Mr. Livermore, (previously described,) where, . after considerable difficulty, I obtained sufficient beef for sup- per, Mr. L. being absent. Most of the Indians did not get intD camp until a late hour of the night, and some of them not until morning. They complained very much of sore feet, and wanted horses to ride, which I promised them as soon as they reached the Pueblo de San Jose. About ten o'clock on the morning of the 20th, we slaughtered a beef in the hills between Mr. Livermore's and the mission of San Jose ; and leaving the hungry party to regale themselves upon it and then follow on, I proceeded immediately to the Pueblo de San Jose to make further arrangements, reaching tha+t place just after sunset. On the 21st I procured clothing foi ..he Indians, which, when they arrived with Mr. Jacob in the afternoon, was distributed among them. On my arrival at the Pueblo, I found the American popula- tion there much excited by intelligence just received of the cap- ture on the 15th, between Monterey and the mission of San Juan, of Thos. 0. Larkin, Esq., late U. S. consul in California, by a party of Californians, and of an engagement between the same Californians and a party of Americans escorting a cahal- tada of 400 horses to Colonel Fremont's camp in Monterey. In this affair three Americans were killed, viz. : Capt. Burroughs^ Capt. Foster, and Mr. Earaes, late of St. Louis, Mo. The mis- sion of San Juan lies on the road between the Pueblo de San Jos6 and MonttMoy, about fifty miles from the former place, and thirty from the latter. The skirnii.sli look place ten miles south MR. larkin's narrative. 361 af San Juan, near the Monterey road. I extract the following account of this aflFair from a journal of his captivity published by Mr. Larkin : — " On the 15th of November, from information received of the sickness of my family in San Francisco, where they had gone to escape the expected revolutionary troubles in Monterey, and from letters from Captain Montgomery requesting my presence respecting some stores for the Portsmouth, I, with one servant, left Monterey for San Francisco, knowing that for one month no Californian forces had been within 100 miles of us. That night I put up at the house of Don Joaquin Gomez, sending my ser- vant to San Juan, six miles beyond, to request Mr. J. Thompson to wait for me, as he was on the road for San Francisco. About raidnight I was aroused from my bed by the noise made by ten Califoi-nians (unshaved and unwashed for months, being in the mountains) rushing into my chamber with guns, swords, pistols, and torches in their hands. I needed but a moment to be fully awake and know my exact situation ; the first cry was, ' Como estamos Senor Consul.* ' Vamos Senor Larkin.' At my bed- side were several letters that I had re-read before going to bed. On dressing myself, while my captors were saddling my horse, I assorted these letters, and put them into different pockets. After taking my own time to dress and arrange my valise, we started, and rode to a camp of seventy or eighty men on the banks of the Monterey river ; there each officer and prin- cipal person passed the time of night with me, and a remark or two. The commandante took me on one side, and informed me that his people demanded that I should write to San Juan, to the American captain of volunteers, saying that I had left Mon- terey to visit the distressed families of the river, and request or demand that twenty men should meet me before daylight, that I could station them, before my return to town, in a manner to protect these families. The natives, he said, were determined on the act being accomplished. I at first endeavored to reason with him on the infamy and the impossibility of the deed, but to no avail : he said my life depended on the letter ; that he was willing, nay, anxious to preserve my life as an old acquaint* 31 362 MR. larkin's narrative. ance, but could not control his people in this aff;iir. From a? gument I came to a refusal : he ad\ased, urged, and demanded- At this period an officer called out * * * * (Come here, those who are named.) I then said, ' In this manner you may act and. threaten night by night; my life on such condition is of no value or pleasure to me. I am by accident your prisoner — make the most of me — write, I will not : shoot as you see fit, and I am done talking on the subject.' I left him, and went to the camp-fire. For a half-hour or more there was some commotion around me, when all disturbance subsided. "At daylight we started, with a flag flying and a drum beating, and travelled eight or ten miles, when we camped in a low valley or hollow. There they caught with the lasso three or four head of cattle belonging to the nearest rancho, and breakfasted. The whole day their outriders rode in everj' di- rection, on the look-out, to see if the American company left the mission of San Juan, or Lieutenant- colonel Fremont left Monterey : they also rode to all the neighboring ranches, and forced the rancheros to join them. At one o'clock, they began their march with one himdred and thu-ty men, (and two or three hundred extra horses ;) they marched in four single files, occupying four positions, myself under charge of an officer and five or six men in the centre. Their plan of operation for the night was, to rush into San Juan ten or fifteen men, who were to retreat, under the expectation that the Americans would follow them, in which case the whole party outside was to cut them off". I was to be retained in the centre of the party. Ten miles south of the mission, they encountered eight or ten Americans, a part of whom retreated into a low ground covered with oaks, the others returned to the house of Sefior Gomez, to alarm their companions. For over one hour tlie hundred and thirty Californians surrounded the six or eight Americans, oc- casionally giving and receiving shots. During this period, J was several times requested, then commanded, to go among the oaks and bring out my countrymen, and offer them theu lives n giving up thoir rifles and persons. 1 at last offered to go and call them out, on condition that they should return tc DEATH OF BUKROUCnS AND FOSTER. 363 San Juan or go to Monterey, with their arms ; this being re- fused, I told the commandante to go in and bring them out himself. While they were consulting how this could be done, fifty Americans came down on them, which caused an action of about twenty or thirty minutes. Thirty or forty of the natives leaving the field at the first fire, they remained drawn ofi" by fives and tens until the Americans had the field to themselves. Both parties remained within a mile of each other until dark. Our countrymen lost Captain Burroughs, of St. Louis, Missouri, Captain Foster, and two others, with two or three wounded. The Californians lost two of their countrymen, and Jos6 Garcia, 5f Val., ChiH, Avith seven wounded." The following additional particulars I extract from the " Californian" newspaper of November 21, 1846, published at Monterey : " Burroughs and Foster were killed at the first onset. The Americans fired, and then charged on the enemy with their empty rifles, and ran them off. However, they still kept rallying, and firing now and then a musket at the Ameri- cans, until about eleven o'clock at night, when one of the Walla- Walla Indians offered his services to come into Mon- terey and give Colonel Fremont notice of what "was passing Soon after he started he was pursued by a party of the enemy. The foremost in pursuit drove a lance at the Indian, who, trying to parry it, received the lance through his hand ; he immediately, with the other hand, seized his tomahawk, and struck a blow at his opponent, which split his head from the crown to the mouth. By this time the others had come up, and with the most extraordinary dexterity and bravery, the Indian vanquished two more ; and the rest ran away. He rode on towards this town as far as his horse was able to carry him, and then left his horse and saddle, and came in on foot. He arrived here about eight o'clock on Tuesday morning, De- cember lYth." The Americans engaged in this affair were principally the vDlunteer emigrants just arrived in the country, and who had U;ft New Helvetia a few days in advance of me. Colonel Fremont marched from Monterey as soon as h« 364 MISSION OP SAN JUAN. heard of this skirmish, in pursuit of the Califomians, but did not meet with them. He then encamped at the mission of San Juan, waiting there the amval of the remaining volunteers from above. Leaving the Pueblo on the afternoon of the 25th, in con- junction with a small force commanded by Captain Weber, we made an excursion into the hills, near a rancho owned by Captain W., where were herded some two or three hundred public horses. It had been rumored that a party of Cah- fornians were hovering about here, intending to capture and drive off these horses. The next day, (November 26th,) with- out having met any hostile force, driving these horses before us, we encamped at Murphy's rancho. Mr. Murphy is the father of a large and respectable family, who emigrated to this country some three or four years since from the United States, being originally from Canada. His daughter, Miss Helen, who did the honors of the rude cabin, in manners, conversation, and personal charms, woiild grace any di awing- room. On the 28th, we proceeded down the Pueblo valley, passing Gilroy's rancho, and reaching the mission of San Juan just before dark. The hills and valleys are becoming verdant with the fresh grass and wild oats, the latter being, in places, two or three inches high. So tender is it, however, that it affords but little nourishment to our horses. The mission of San Juan Bautista has been one of the most extensive of these establishments. The principal buildings are more durably constructed than those of other missions I have visited, and they are in better condition. Square bricks are used in paving the corridors and the ground floors. During the twilight, I strayed accidentally through a half-opened gate into a cemetery, enclosed by a high wall in the rear of the church. The spectacle was ghastly enough. The exhumed skeletons of those who had been deposited here, lay thickly Btrewn around, showing but little lespect for the sanctity of the grave or the rights of the dead, from the living. The cool, damp night-hreeze sighed and mo;incd through the shrubbery And ruiiioiLs arches and corridors, planted and reiu-ed by those CALIFORNIA BATTALION. 365 whose neglected bones were now exposed to the rude msults of man and beast. I could not but imagine that the voices of complaining spirits mingled with these dismal and mournful tones ; and plucking a cluster of roses, the fragrance of which was delicious, I left the spot, to drive away the sadness and melancholy produced by the scene. The valley contiguous to the mission is extensive, well watered by a large arroyo, and highly fertile. The gardens and other lands for tillage, are enclosed by willow hedges. Elevated hills, or mountains, bound this valley on the east and the west. Large herds of cattle were scattered over the valley, greedily cropping the fresh green herbage, which now carpets moimtain and plain. Colonel Fremont marched from San Juan this morning, and encamped, as we learned on our arrival, ten miles south. Pro- ceeding up the arroyo on the 29th, we reached the camp of Colonel F. about noon. I immediately reported, and delivered over to him the men and horses under my charge. The men were afterwards organized mto a separate corps, of which Mr. R. T. Jacob, my travelhng-companion, was appointed the cap- tain by Colonel Fremont, CHAPTER XXXI. California battalion — Their appearance, and costume — List of the officers — Commence our march to Los Angeles — Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan — Slaughter of beeves — Astonishing consumption of beef by the men — Beautiful morning — Ice — Salinas river and valley — Californian prisoners — Horses giving out from fatigue — Mission of San Miguel — Sheep — Mutton — March on foot — More prisoners taken — Death of Mr. Stanley — An execution — Dark night — Capture of the mission oi San Luis Obispo — Orderly conduct and good deportment of the Califor- nia battalion. November 30. — The battalion of mounted riflemen imder the command of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, numbeis, rank and 81* 366 CALIFORNIA BATTALION file, including Indians and servants, 428. With tte exception )f the exploiing party, which left the United States with Colonel F., they are composed of volunteers from the American settlers, and the emigrants which have arrived in the country within a few weeks. The latter have generally furnished their own am- munition and other equipments for the expedition. Most of these are practiced riflemen, men of undoubted courage, and capable of bearing any fatigue and privations endvu-able by veteran ti'oops. The Indians are composed of a party of Walla-Wallas from Oregon, and a party of native Californians. Attached to the battahon are two pieces of artillery, under the command of Lieutenant McLane, of the navy. In the appearance of our small army there is presented but little of " the pomp and cir- cumstance of glorious war." There are no plumes nodding over brazen helmets, nor coats of broadcloth spangled with lace and buttons. A broad-brimmed, low-crowned hat, a shirt of blue flannel, or buckskin, with pantaloons and moccasins of the same, all generally much the worse for wear, and smeared with mud and dust, make up th.e costume of the party, ofiioers as well as men. A leathern girdle surrounds the waist, from which are suspended a bowie and a hunter's knife, and sometimes a brace of pistols. These, with the rifle and holster-pistols, are the arms canied by officers and privates. A single bugle (and a sorry one it is) composes the band. Many an embryo Napo- leon, in his own conceit, whose martial spirit has been excited to flaming intensity of heat by the peacock-plumage and gaudy trappings of our militia companies, when marching through the streets to the sound of drum, fife, and brass band, if he could have looked upon us, and then consulted the state of the mili- tary thermometer within him, would probably have discovered that the mercury of his heroism had fallen several degrees below aero. He migh jven have desired that we should not come " Between the wind and his nobility." War, stripped of its pageimtry, possesses but few of the attrac- tions with which poetry and painting have embellished it. Th« following Is a list of tl"- officers : — t,IST OF OFFICERS. 367 lAat of Officers composing the California Battalion. Lieutenant-colonel J. C. Fremont, commanding ; A. H. Gil- lespie, major ; P. B. Reading, paymaster ; Henry King, com- missary ; J. R. Snyder, quartermaster, since appointed a land- sm'veyor by Colonel Mason ; Wm. H. Russell, ordnance officer ; T. Talbot, lieutenant and adjutant ; J. J. Myers, sergeant-major, appointed lieutenant in January, 1847. Company A. — Richard Owens, captain ; Wm. N. Loker, 1st lieutenant, appointed adjutant Feb. lOtli, 1847 ; B. M. Hud- speth, 2d lieutenant, appomted captain Feb. 1847 ; Wm. Find- lay, 2d lieutenant, appointed captain Feb. 1847. Company B. — Henry Ford, captain ; Andrew Copeland, 1st heutenant. Company C. — Granville P. Swift, captain; Wm. Baldridge, 1st lieutenant; Wm. Hartgrove, 2d do. Company D. — John Sears, captain ; Wm. Bradshaw, 1st lieutenant. Company E. — John Grigsby, captain; Archibald Jesse, 1st lieutenant. Company F. — L. W. Hastings, captain, (author of a work on California;) Wornbough, 1st lieutenant; J. M. Hudspeth, 2d do. Company G. — Thompson, captain ; Davis, 1st heutenant ; Rock, 2d do. Company H. — R. T. Jacobs, captain ; Edwin Bryant, 1st lieu- tenant, (afterwards alcalde at San Francisco ;) Geo. M. Lippiu- cott, 2d do., of New York. Artillery Company. — Louis McLane, captain, (afterwards major ;) John K. Wilson, 1st lieutenant, appointed captain in January, 1847 ; Wm. Blackbiu-n, 2d do., (now alcalde of Santa Cruz.) Officers on detached service and doing duty at the South. S. Hensley, captain ; S. Gibson, do., (lanced through the body at San Pascual ;) Miguel Pedrorena, do., Spaniard, (appointed by Stockton ;) Stgo. Arguello, do., Californian, (appointed by io. ;) Bell, do., (appointed by do.,) old resident of California, Jjos Angeles ;) H. Rhenshaw, 1st lieutenant, (appointed bv 368 RAIN MUD. do. ;) A. Godey, do., (appointed by do ;) Jas. Barton, do., (ap- pointed by do. ;) L. Arguello, do., Califomian, (appointed by do.) After a march of six or eight hours, up the valley of the arroyo, through a heavy rain, and mud so deep that several of our horses gave out from exhaustion, we encamped in a circidar bottom, near a deserted adobe house. A caballada of some 500 or 600 loose horses and mules is driven along with us, but many of them are miserable, sore-backed skeletons, having been ex- hausted with hard usage and bad fare during the summer campaign. Besides these, we have a large number of pack- mules, upon which all our baggage and provisions are trans- ported. Distance 10 miles. We did not move on the 1st and 2d of December. There being no cattle in the vicinity of our camp, a party was sent back to the mission, on the morning of the 1st, who in the af ternoon returned, driving before them about 100 head, most of them in good condition. After a - sufficient number were slaughtered to supply the camp with meat for the day, the re- mainder were confined in a corral prepared for the purpose, te be driven along with us, and slaughtered from day to day. Tlie rain has continued, with short intermissions, since we com- menced our march on the 30th of November. The ground has become saturated with water, and the small branches are swollen into large streams. Notwithstanding these discomforts, ihc men are in good spirits, and enjoy themselves in singing, telling stories, and playing monte. December .3. — Tbe rain ceased falling about 8 o'clock this morning ; and the clouds breaking away, the sun cheered us once mere with his pleasant beams. The battalion was formed into a hollow square, and the order of the day being read, we resumed our march. Our progress, through the deep mud, was very slow. The horses were constantly giving out, and many were left behind. The young and tender grass upon which they feed JifTords but little nourishment, and liard labor Boon exhausts them. We encamped on a low bluff, near thf (xtroyo, timbered with evergreen oak. Distance eight miles. BXTRAORDINAKY C(^N:?UMPTION OF BEEF. 369 December 4. — I was ordered with a small party in advance this morning. Proceeding up the valley a few miles, we left it, crossing several steep hills sparsely timbered with oak, frou' which we descended into another small valley, down which we continued to the point of its termination, near some narrow and difficult mountain gorges. In exploring the gorges, we discov- ered the trail of a party of Californians, which had passed south several days before lis, and found a horse which they had left in their march. This, doubtless, was a portion of the party which captured Mr. Larkin, and had the engagement between Monterey and St. Juan, on the iVth ult. The main body coming up, we encamped at 3 o'clock. The old grass around our camp is abundant ; but haiing been so much washed by the rains, and consequently exhausted of its nutritious qualities, the animals refuse to eat it. The country over which we have travelled to-day, and as far as I can see, is mountainous and broken, little of it being adapted to other agricultural pur- poses than grazing. Thirteen beeves are slavightered every afternoon for the con sumption of the battalion. These beeves are generally of good size, and in fair condition. Other provisions being entirely exhausted, beef constitutes the only subsistence for the men, and most of the officers. Under these circumstances, the con- sumption of beef is astonishing. I do not know that I shall be believed when I state a fact, derived from ob:.ervation and calculation, that the average consumption per man of fresh beei is at least ten pounds per day. Many of them, I believe, con- sume much more, and some of them less. Nor does this quan- tity appear to be injurious to health, or fully to satisfy the appetite. I have seen some of the men roast their meat and devour it by the fire from the hour of encamping until late bed- time. They would then sleep until one or two o'clock in the morning, when the cravings of hunger being greater than the desire for repose, the same occupation would be resumed and continued until the order was given to march. The Californian beef is generally fat, juicy, and tender, and surpasses in flavor any which I ever tasted elsewhere. Distance 10 miles. 370 FROST SNOW-— SALINAS RIVER. December 5. — I rose before daylight. The moon shone brightly. The temperature was cold. The vapor in the at- mosphere had congealed and fallen upon the ground in feather}' flakes, covering it with a white semi-transparent veil, or crystal sheen, sparkling in the moonbeams. The smoke from the nu- merous camp-fires soon began to ciu-1 languidly up in graceful wreaths, settling upon the mountain summits. The scene was one for the pencil and brush of the artist ; but when the envi- ous sun rose, he soon stripped Madam Earth of her gauzy, holiday morning-gown, and exposed her every-day petticoat of mud. Om- march to-day has been one of great difficulty, through a deep, brushy mountain gorge, through which it was almost impossible to force the field-pieces. In one place they were lowered with ropes down a steep and nearly perpendicular pre- cipice of great height and depth. We encamped about 3 o'clock, p. M., in a small valley. Many of the horses gave out on the march, and were left behind by the men, who came straggling into camp until a late hour of the evening, bringing their saddles and baggage upon their shoulders. I noticed, while crossing an elevated ridge of hills, flakes of snow flying in the air, but melting before they reached the ground. The small spring-bi'anch on which we encamped, empties into the Salinas river. The country surrounding us is elevated and broken, and the soil sandy, with but little timber or grass upon it. Distance 12 miles. December 6. — Morning 'clear and cool. Crossed an imdula* ting country, destitute of timber and water, and encamped in •a circular valley surrounded by elevated hills, through which flows a small tributary of the Salinas. The summits of the mountains in sight are covered with snow, but the temperature in the valleys is pleasant Distance 15 miles. December 7. — Ice, the first I have seen since entering Cali- fornia, formed in the branch of the thickness of window-glass. We reached the valley of the Salinas about 11 o'clock, a. m., and encamped for ths day. The river Salinas (laid down in some maps as Rio San Buenaventura) rises in the mountaina MISSION OF SAN MIGUEL 371 to the south, and has a course of some sixty or eighty miles, emptying into the Pacific about twelve miles north of Monte- rey. The valley, as it approaches the ocean, is broad and fer> tile, and there are many fine ranchos upon it. But higher up, the stream becomes dry in the summer, and the soil of the valley is arid and sandy. The width of the stream at this point is about thirty yards. Its banks are skirted by naiTow belts of small timber. A range of elevated mountains rises between this valley and the coast. A court-martial was held to-day, for the trial of sundry offenders. Distance 8 miles. Dec. 8. — Morning cool, clear, and pleasant. Two Califor- nians were arrested by the rear-guard near a deserted rancho, and brought into camp. One of them turned out to be a per- son known to be friendly to the Americans. There has been but little variation in the soil or scenery. But few attempts appear to have been made to settle this portion of California. The thefts and hostilities of the Tular Indians, are said to be one of the causes preventing its settlement. Distance 15 miles. Dec. 9. — The mornings are cool, but the middle of the days are too warm to ride comfortably with our coats on. Our march has been fatiguing and difficult, through several brushy ravines and over steep and elevated hills. Many horses gave out as usual, and were left, from inability to travel. Our ca- hallada is diminishing rapidly. Distance 10 miles. Dec. 10. — Our march has been on the main beaten trail, dry and hard and over a comparatively level country. We passed the mission of San Miguel about 3 o'clock, and encamped in a grove of large oak timber three or four miles south of it. This mission is situated on the upper waters of the Salinas, in an extensive plain. Under the administration of the /^at/j-es it was a wealthy establishment, and manufactures of various kinds were carried on. They raised immense numbers of sheep, the fleeces of which were manufactured by the Indians into blankets and joarse cloths. Their granaries were filled with an abundance of maize and frijoles, and their store-rooms with other neces- saries of life from the ranchos belonging on the mission lands S72 SHEEP AN ARREST. in the vicinity. Now all the buildings, except the church and the principal range of houses contiguous, have fallen into ruins. and an Englishman, his wife and one small child, with two or three Indian servants, are the sole inhabitants. The church is the largest I have seen in the country, and its interior is in good repair, although it has not probably been used for the purpose of worship for many years. The Englishman professes to have purchased tlie mission and all the lands belonging to it for S300 ! Our stock of cattle being exhausted, we feasted on Calif or- nian mutton, sheep being more abundant than cattle at this mission. The wool, I noticed, was coarse, but the mutton was of an excellent quality. The country over which we have trav- elled to-day, shows the marks of long drought previous to the recent rains. The soil is sandy and gravelly, and the dead vegetation upon it is thin and stunted. About eighty of our horses are reported to have given out and been left behind. Distance 20 mUes. Dec. 12. — To relieve our horses, which are constantly giving out from exiiaustion, the grass being insufficient for their sus- tenance while performing labor, the entire battalion, officers and men, were rrdered to march on foot, turning their horses, witli the saddles and bridles upon them, into the general caballada to be driven along by the horse-guard. The day has been drizzly, cold, and disagreeable, Tjie coimtry has a barren and naked appearance, but this, I believe, is attributable to the ex- treme drought that has prevailed in this region for one or U\q j'ears past. We encamped near the rancho of a friendly Cali- fornian, — the man who was taken prisoner tlie other day and set at large. An Indian, said to be the servant of Tortoria Pico, was captured here by the advance party. A letter was found upon liim, but its contents I never learned. This be- ing the 6rst foot-march, there were, of course, many galled snd blistered feet in the battalion. My servant obtained, with some diflicidty, from the Indians at the ranclio, a pint cup oi 2n^u)le, or parched corn-meal, and a quart or two of wheat, whicli being boiled, furnished some variety in our viands I FUHBRAL OF MR. STANLEY — EXECUTION. 373 at supper, fresh beef having been our only subsistence since the commencement of the march from San Juan. Distance 12 miles. Dec. 13. — A rainy disagreeable morning. Mr. Stanley, one of the volunteers, and one of the gentlemen who so kindly sup- plied us with provisions on Mary's river, died last night. He has been suffering from an attack of typhoid fever since the commencement of our march, and unable most of the time to sit upon his horse. He was buried this morning in a small cir- cular opening in the timber near our camp. The battalion was formed in a hollow square surrounding the grave which had been excavated for the final resting-place of our deceased friend and comrade. There was neither bier, nor coffin, nor pall — " Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note." The cold earth was heaped upon his mortal remains in silent solemnity, and the ashes of a braver or a better man will never repose in the lonely hills of California. After the funeral the battalion was marched a short distance to witness another scene, not more mournful, but more harrow- ing than the last. The Indian captured at the rancho yester- day was condemned to die. He was brought from his place of confinement and tied to a tree. Here he stood some fifteen or twenty minutes, until the Indians from a neighboring ranclieria could be brought to witness the execution. A file of soldiers were then ordered to fire upon him. He fell upon his knees, and remained in that position several minutes without uttering a groan, and then sank upon the earth. No human being could have met his fate with more composure, or with stronger mani- festations of courage. It was a scene such as I desire nevei to witness again. A cold rain fell upon us during the entire day's march. We encamped at four o'clock, p. m., but the rain poured down in such torrents that it was impossible to light our camp-fires and keep them burning. This continued nearly the whole night, and I have rarely passed a night more imcomfortably. A acouting party brought in two additional prisoners this evenir;g. 32 474 CAPTURE OF SAN LUIS OBISPO. Another returned, and reported the capture of a number of horses, and the destruction of a rancho by fire. Distance 12 miles. December 14. — ^The battalion commenced its march on foot and in a heavy rain. The mud is very deep, and we have been compelled to wade several streams of considerable depth, being swollen by the recent rains. At one o'clock a halt was ordered, and beef slaughtered and cooked for dinner. The march was resumed late in the afternoon, and the plain surrounding the mission of San Luis Obispo was reached in the pitchy darkness of the night, a family in the caiiada ha^ing been taken prisoners by the advance party to prevent them gi\ing the alarm. The battalion was so disposed as to surround the mission and take prisoners all contained within it. The place was entered in great confusion, on account of the darkness, about nine o'clock. There was no military force at the mission, and the few uihab- itants were greatly alarmed, as may well be supposed, by this sudden invasion. They made no resistance, and were all taken prisoners except one or two, who managed to escape and fled in great terror, no one knew where or how. It being ascertained that Tortoria Pico, a man who has figured conspicuously in mosi of the Californian revolutions, was in the neighborhood, a part}- was dispatched immediately to the place, and he was brought in a prisoner. The night was rainy and boisterous, and the soldiers were quartered to the best advantage in the miserable mud houses, and no acts of violence or outrage of any kind were committed. The men composing the California battalion, as I have before stated, liave been drawn from many sources, and are roughly clad, and weather-beaten in their exterior appearance ; but I feel it but justice liere to state my belief, that no military party ever passed through an enemy's .country and observed the same strict regard for the rights of 'ts population. I never heard of an outrage, or even a trespass being committed by one of the American volunteers during our entire march. Every American appeared to understand perfectly the duty which he owed to himself and otliers in this respect, and the deportment of the bat- Alien might be cited as a model for imitation. Distance 18 miles MISSION OF SAN LUIS OBISPO 37& CHAPTER XXXII. i\wmendous rain — Mission of San Luis Obispo — Gardens — Various fruits — Farm — Cactus Tuna — Caliuche — Pumpkins — Trial of Tortoria Pico — Procession of women — Pico's pardon — Leave San Luis — Surf of the Pa- cific — Captain Dana — Tempestuous night — Mission of St. Ynes — Effects of drought — Horses exhausted — St. Ynes mountain — View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific — A wretched Christmas-day — Descent of St. Ynes mountain — Terrible storm — Frightful destruction of horses — Dark night — What we are fighting for — Arrive at Santa Barbara — Town deserted. December 15. — The rain fell in cataracts the entire day. The small streams which flow from the mountains through, and water the valley of, San Luis Obispo, are swollen by the deluge of water from the clouds into foaming unfordable torrents. In order not to trespass upon the population at the mission, in their miserable abodes of mud, the church was opened, and a large nimiber of the soldiers were quartered in it. A guard, how- ever, was set day and night, over the chancel and all other property contained in the building, to prevent its being injured or disturbed. The decorations of the church are much the same as I have before described. The edifice is large, and the interior in good repair. The floor is paved with square bricks. I noticed a common hand-organ in the church, which played the airs we usually hear from organ-grinders in the street. Besides the main larare buildinffs connected with the churcli, there are standing, and partially occupied, several small squares of adobe houses, belonging to this mission. The heaps of mud and crumbling walls outside of these, are evidence that the place was once of much greater extent, and probably one of the most opulent and prosperous establishments of the kind in the country. The lands surrounding the mission are finely situ- ated for cultivation and irrigation if necessary. Tliere are sev- eral large gardens, enclosed by high and substantial walls, 376 TROPICAL FRUITS — FEMALE PROCESSION. which now contain a great variety of fruit-trees and shrubbery. I noticed the orange, fig, palm, oUve, and grape. There are also large enclosxu-es hedged in by the prickly-pear, (cactus,) which grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious bar- rier against man or beast. The stalks of some of these plants are of the thickness of a man's body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet. A juicy fruit is produced by the prickly-pear, named tuna, from which a beverage is sometimes made called calinche. It has a pleasant flavor, as has also the fruit, which, when ripe, is blood-red. A small quantity of pounded wheat was found here, which, being purchased, was served out to the troops, about a pound to the man. Frijoles and pumpkins were also obtained, delicacies of no common order. December 16. — A court-martial was convened this morning or the trial of Pico, the principal prisoner, on the charge, I mdcrstood, of the forfeiture of his parole which had been taken 'n a former occasion. The sentence of the court was, that he hould be shot or hung, I do not know which. A rumor is '♦urrent among the population here, that there has been an en- '(agement between a party of Americans and Californians, near Lios Angeles, in which the former were defeated with the loss ')f thirty men killed. December 17. — Cool, with a hazy sky. While standing in jne of the corridors this morning, a procession of females passed by me, headed by a lady of fine appearance and dressed with remarkable taste and neatness, compared with those who fol- lowed her. Their rebosos concealed the faces of most of them, except the leader, whose beautiful features, I dare say, she t nought (and justly) required no concealment. They proceeded to the quarters of Colonel Fremont, and their object, I under- stood, was to petition for the reprieve or pardon of Pico, who had been condemned to death by the court-martial yesterday, and whose execution was expected to take place this morning. Their intercession was successful, as no execution took place, and in a short lime all the prisoners were discharged, and the order to saddle up and march given. We resumed our march at ten o'clock, and encamped just before sunset in a small but CAPTAIN DANA. ST7 picturesque and fertile valley timbered with oak, so near the coast that the roar of the surf breaking agaiast the shore could be heard distinctly. Distance 1 miles. December 18. — Clear, with a dehghtful temperatuie. Before the sun rose the grass was covered with a white frost. The day throughout has been calm and beautiful. A march of four miles brought us to the shore of a small indentation in the coast of the Pacific, where vessels can anchor, and boats can land when the wind is not too fresh. The surf is now rolling and foaming with prodigious energy — breaking upon the beach in long lines one behind the other, and striking the shore hke cataracts. The hills and plains are verdant with a carpet of fresh grass, and the scattered live-oaks on all sides appearing like orchards of fruit-trees, give to the country an old and cul- tivated aspect. The mountains bench away on our left, the low hills rising in gentle conical forms, beyond which are the more elevated and precipitous peaks covered with snow. We en- camped about three o'clock near the rancho of Captain Dana, in a large and handsome valley well watered by an arroyo. Captain Dana is a native of Massachusetts, and has resided in this country about thirty years. He is known and esteemed throughout California for his intelligence and private virtues, and his imbounded generosity and hospitality. I purchased _ere a few loaves of wheat bread, and distributed them among the men belonging to our company as far as they would go, a luxury which they have not indulged in since the commencement of the march. Distance 15 miles. December 19. — The night was cold and tempestuous, with a slight fall of rain. The clouds broke away after sunrise, and the day became warm and pleasant. We continued our march up the valley and encamped near its head. The table-land and hills are generally gravelly, but appear to be productive of fine grass. The soil of the bottom is of the richest and most pro- ductive composition. We crossed in the course of the day a vride flat plain, upon which were grazing large herds of brood- mares {manadas) and cattle. In the distance they resembled large armies approachmg us. The peaks of the elevated moun- 32* 878 EFFECTS OF DROUGHT. tains ki sight are covered with snow. A large number of horsea gave out, strayed, and were left behind to-day, estimated at one hundred. The men came into camp bringing their saddles on their backs, and some of them arriving late in the evening. Distance 18 miles. December 20. — Parties were sent back this morning to gather up horses and baggage left on the march yesterday, and it was one o'clock before the rear-guard, waiting for the return of those, left camp. The main body made a short march and encamped early, in a small hollow near the rancho of Mr. Faxon, through which flows an arroyo, the surrounding hUls being timbered with evergreen oaks. The men amused them- selves during the afternoon in target-shooting. Many of the battalion are fine marksmen with the rifle, and the average of shots could not easily be surpassed. The camp spread over an undulating surface of half a mile in diameter, and at night, when the fires were lighted, illuminating the grove, with its drapery of drooping Spanish moss, it presented a most pictu- resque appearance. Distance 3 miles. December 21. — Clear and pleasant. A foot-march was ordered, with the exception of the horse and baggage guard. We marched several miles through a winding hollow, passing a deserted rancho, and ascending with much labor a steep ridge of hills, descending which we entered a handsome valley, and • ncamped upon a small stream about four miles from the •Taission of St. Ynes. The banks of the arroyo are strewn with lead and prostrate timber, the trees, large and small, having >een overtlirown by tornadoes. The plain has sufi'ered, hke Quch of the country we have passed through, by a long-con- inued drought, but the composition of the soil is such as indi- ;ates fertility, and from the eftects of the late rains the grass is ipringing up with great luxuriance, from places which before were entirely denuded of vegetation. A party was sent from tamp to inspect the mission, but returned without making any anportant discoveries. Our horses are so weak that many of them are unable to carry their saddles, and were left on the road u8 usual. A man had his leg broken on the march to* PLAIN OF SANTA BARBARA. 379 day, by the kick of a mule. He was sent back to the rancho of Mr. Faxon. Distance 15 miles. December 22. — Clear and pleasant. Being of the party which performed rear-guard duty to-day, with orders to bring in all stragglers, we did not leave camp imtil several hours after the main body had left. The horses of the caballada and the pack-animals were continually giving out and refusing to proceed. Parties of men, exhausted, lay down upon the groimd, and it was with much uiging, and sometimes with peremptory commands only, that they could be prevailed upon to proceed. The country bears the same marks of drought Iveretofore described, but fresh vegetation is now springing up and appears vigorous. A large horse-trail leading into one of Ihe canadas of the mountains on ovr left, was discovered by the I'.couts, and a party was dispatched to trace it. We passed one deserted rancho, and reached camp between nine and ten o'clock at night, having forced in all the men and most of the horses and pack-mules. Distance 15 miles. December 23. — Raiuifell steadily and heavily the entire day. A small party of men was in advance. Discovering in a brushy valley two Indians armed with bows and arrows, they were taken prisoners. Learning from them that there was a caballada of horses secreted in one of the canadas, they continued on about ten miles, and found about twenty-five fresh, fat horses, belonging to a Californian now among the insurgents below. They were taken and delivered at the camp near the eastern base of the St. Ynes mountain. Passed this morning a rancho inhabited by a foreigner, an Englishman. December 24. — Cloudy and cool, mth an occasional sprink- ling rain. Our route to-day lay directly over the St. Ynes mountain, by an elevated and most difficult pass. The height jf this moxmtain is several thousand feet. We reached the summit about twelve o'clock, and our company composing the advance-guard, we encamped about a mUe and a half in ad- vance of the main body of the battalion, at a point which over- looks the beautiful plain of Santa Barbara, of which, and the >cean beyond, we had a most extended and interesting view. 380 CHEERLESS CHRISTMAS. — ST. YNES MOUNTAIN. With the spyglass, we could see in the plain far below us, herd? 3f cattle quietly grazing upon the green herbage that carpets [ts gentle undulations. The plain is dotted Avith groves, sur rounding the springs and beltmg the small water-com-ses, of which there are many flowing from this range of mountains, Ranchos are scattered far up and down the plain, but not one human being could be seen stirring. About ten or twelve miles to the south, the white towers of the mission of Santa Barbara raise themselves. Beyond, is the illimitable waste of waters. A more lovely and picturesque landscape I never beheld. On the summit of the movmtain, and surroimding us, there is a growth of hawthorn, manzanita, (in bloom,) and other small shrubbery. The rock is soft sandstone and conglomerate, im- mense masses of which, piled one upon another, form a wall along the western brow of the mountain, through which there is a single pass or gateway about eight or ten feet in width The descent on the western side is precipitous, and appears almost impassable. Distance 4 miles. December 25. — Christmas-day, and a memorable one to me. Owing to the difficulty in hauling the cannon up the steep ac- chvities of the mountain, the main body of the battalion did not come up with us until twelve o'clock, and before we com- menced the descent of the mountain a furious storm commenced, raging with a violence rarely surpassed. The rain fell in torrents and the wind blew almost with the force of a tornado. This fierce stiife of the elements continued without abatement the entire afternoon, and until two o'clock at night. Driving our horses before us we were compelled to slide down the steep and slippery rocks, or Avade through deep gullies and ravines filled with raud and foaming torrents of water, that rushed downwards with such force as to carry along the loose rocks and tear up the trees and shrubbery by the roots. Many of the horses falling into the ravines refused to make an effort to extricate themselves, and were swept downwards and drowned. Others, bewildered by the fierceness and terrors of the storm, rushed or fell hcjidlong over the steep precipices and were lulled. Others obstinately refused to proceed, but stood qua- DARK AND STORMY NIGHT. 881 king with fear or shivering with cold, and many of these per- ished in the night from the severity of the storm. The advance party did not reach the foot of the mountain and find a place to encamp until night — and a night of more impenetrable and terrific darkness I never witnessed. The ground upon which our camp was made, although sloping from the hills to a small stream, was so saturated with water that men as well as horses sunk deep at every step. The rain fell in such quantities that fires with great difficulty could be hpjhted, and most of them were immediately extinguished. The officers and men belonging to the company having the cannon in charge, labored imtil nine or ten o'clock to bring them down the mountain, but they were finally compelled to leave them. Much of the baggage also remained on the side of the mountain, with the pack-mules and horses conveying them ; all efforts to force the animals down being fruitless The men continued to straggle into the camp until a late hour of the night ; — some crept under the shelving rocks and did not come in until the next morning. We were so fortunate au to find our tent, and after much difficulty pitched it under an oak-tree. All efforts to light a fire and keep it blazing pro\T.ng abortive, we spread our blankets upon the ground and endeav- ored to sleep, although we could feel the cold streams of water running through the tent and between and around our bodies. In this condition we remained until about two o'clock in the morning, when the storm having abated I rose, and shaking from my garments the dripping water, after many unsuccessful efibrts succeeded in kindling a fire. Near our tent I found three soldiers who had reached camp at a late hour. They were fast asleep on the ground, the water around them being two or three inches deep ; but they had taken care to keep their heads above water by using a log of wood for a pillow. The fire beginning to blaze freely, I dug a ditch with my hands and a sharp stick of wood, which drained ofi" the pool surrounding the tent. One of the men, when he felt the sensation consequent upon being " high and dry," roused himself, and sitting upright, looked aroimd for some time with an expression of bewildered 382 DESTRUCTION OF HORSES. amazement. At length he seemed to realize the true state o» the case, and exclauned in a tone of energetic soliloquy : " Well, who wouldn't be a soldier and fight for California ?" " You ai'e mistaken," I rephed. Rubbing his eyes he gazed at me with astonishment, as if having been entirely unconscious of my presence ; but reassuring himself he said : " How mistaken ?" " Why," I answered, " you are not fighting for California." " What the d — 1 then am I fighting for ?" he inquired. " For Texas." " Texas be d — d ; but hurrah for General Jackson !" and with this exclamation he threw himself back again upon his wooden pillow, and was soon snoring in a profound slumber. Making a platform composed of sticks of wood upon the soft mud, I stripped myself to the skin, wringing the water from each garment as I proceeded. I then commenced drying them by the fire in the order that they were replaced upon my body, an employment that occupied me until daylight, which sign, above the high mountain to the east, down which we had rolled rather than marched yesterday, I was truly rejoiced to see. Distance 3 miles. Dec. 26. — Parties were detailed early this morning, and dis- patched up the mountain to bring down the cannon, and collect the hving horses and baggage. The destruction of horse-flesh, by those who witnessed the scene, by daylight, is described as frightful. In some places large numbers of dead horses were piled together. In others, horses half buried in the mud of the ni vines, or among the rocks, were gasping in the agonies of death. The number of dead animals is variously estimated at "rom seventy-five to one hundred and fifty, by different persons. iTie cannon, most of the missing baggage, and the living horses, were all brought in by noon. The day was busily employed in cleansing our rifles and pistols, and drying our drenched bag- Dec. 27. — Preparations were commenced early for the resimip- tioo of our march ; but such was the condition of every thing around ARRIVE AT SANTA BARBARA. 383 US, that it was two o'clock, p. m., before the battalion was in readiness ; and then so great had been the loss of horses in various ways, that the number remaining was insuflficient to mount the men. One or two companies, and portions of others, were compelled to march on foot. We were \'isited dm-ing the forenoon by Mr. Sparks, an American, Dr. Den, an Irishman, and Mr. Burton, another American, residents of Santa Barbara. They had been suffered by the CaUfornians to remain in th* place. Their information communicated to us was, that the town was deserted of nearly all its population. A few houses only were occupied. Passing down a beautiful and fertile imdulating plain, we encamped just before sunset in a Uve-oak grove, about half a mile from the town of Santa Barbara. Strict orders were issued by Col. Fremont, that the property and the persons of CaUfornians, not foimd in arms, should be sacredly respected. To prevent all collisions, no soldier was allowed to pass the lines of'the camp without special permission, or orders from his officers. I visited the town before dark ; but found the houses, with few exceptions, closed, and the streets deserted. After hunting about some time we discovered a miserable dwelling, occupied by a shoemaker and his family, open. Entering it we were very kindly received by its occupants, who, with a princely supply of ci\ality, possessed but a beggarly array of comforts. At our request they provided for us a supper of tortillas, frijoles, and stewed came, seasoned with chile Colorado, for which, paying them dos pesos for four, we bade them good-evening, all parties being well satisfied. The family consisted, exclusive of the shoemaker, of a dozen women and children, of all ages. The women, from the accounts they had received of the intentions of the Americans, were evidently unprepared for ci^il treatment from them. They. expected to be dealt with in a veiy barba- rous manner, in all respects ; but they were disappohited, and lavited iis to visit them again. Distance eight miles. 384 TOWN OF Si^NTA BA&BA&A. CHAPTER XXXIII. Santa Barbara — Pictureeque situation — Fertility of the country — Climate- Population — Society — Leave Santa Barbara — Rincon — Grampus — Mis- sion of St. Buenaventura — Fine sjardens — Meet a party of mounted Cali- fornians — They retreat before us — Abundance of maize — Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton — Effects of war upon the country — More of the enemy in sight — News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearnj' and Com. Stockton — Mission of San Fernando — The Maguey — Capitulation of the Californians — Arrive at Los Angeles — Genera! re- flections upon the march — Meet with old acquaintances. The battalion remained encamped at Santa Barbara, from the 2Vtli of December to the 3d of January, 1847. The U. S. flag was raised in the public square of the town the day after otu arrival. The town of Santa Barbara is beautifully situated for the picturesque, about one mile from the shore of a roadstead, which affords anchorage for vessels of any size, and a landing foi boats, in calm weather. During stormy weather, or the preva- lence of strong winds from the southeast, vessels, for safety, are compelled to stand out to sea. A fertile plain extends som" twenty or thirty miles up and down the coast, varying in breadtli from two to ten miles, and bounded on the east by a range of high mountains. Tlie population of the town, I should judge from the number of houses, to be about 1200 souls. Most of the houses are constructed of adobes, in the usual architectural style of Mexican buildings. Some of them, however, are more Americanized, and have some pretensions to tasteful architecture, and comfortable and convenient interior arrangement. Its com- merce, I presume, is limited to the export of hides and tallow produced upon the surrounding plain ; and the commodilics received in exchange for tliese from the traders on the coiiiri. D Uibtless, new and yet undeveloped sources of wealth will b( discovered hereafter, tliat will render this town of much greatc importaDcc than it is at present. MINERALS CLIMATE. 385 On the coast, a few miles above Santa Barbara, tbore are, I have been told, immense quantities of pure bitumen oi- mineral tar, which, rising in the ocean, has been thrown upon 'A'C shore by the waves, where in a concrete state, like rosin, it has accu- mulated in inexhaustible masses. There are, doubtless, many valuable minerals in the neighboring mountains, which, when developed by enterprise, will add greatly to the wealth and im- portance of the town. For intelligence, refinement, and civiliza- tion, the population, it is said, will compare advantageously with any in California. Some old and influential Spanish fami- lies are residents of this place ; but their casas, with the ex- ception of that of Senor Don Jose Noriega, the largest house in the place, are now closed and deserted. Senor N. is one ol the oldest and most respectable citizens of California, having filled the highest ofiices in the government of the country. One of his daughters is a resident of New York, having married Alfred Robinson, Esq., of that city, author of " Life in Cali- fornia." The climate, judging frorn the indications while we remained here, must be delightful, even in winter. With the exception of one day which was tempestuous, the temperature at nigh I did not fall below 50°, and during the day the average was between 60° and 70°. The atmosphere was perfectly clear and serene, the weather resembling that of the pleasant days of April in the same latitude on the Atlantic side of the conti- nent. It is a peculiarity of the Mexicans that they allow no shade or ornamental trees to grow near their houses. In none of the streets of the towns or missions through which I have passed, has there been a solitary tree standing. I noticed very few horticultural attempts in Santa Barbara. At the mission, about two miles distant, which is an extensive establishment and in good preservation, I was told that there were fine gardens, producing most of the varieties of fruits of the tropical and tem- perate climates. Several Califomians came into camp and oflfered to deliver themselves up. They were permitted to go at large. They represented that the Californian force at the south was dailf 83 386 "the raNcoN" — fight expected. growing weaker from dissensions and desertions. The United States prize-schooner Julia, arrived on the 30th, from which was landed a cannon for the use of the battalion. It has, however, to be mounted on wheels, and the gear necessary for hauling it has to be made in the camp. Reports were current in camp on the 31st, that the Calif ornians intended to meet and fight us at San Buenaventura, about thirty miles distant. On the 1st of January, the Indians of the mission and town cele- brated new-year's day, by a procession, music, etc. etc. They marched from the mission to the town, and through most of the empty and otherwise silent streets. Among the airs they played was " Yankee Doodle." January 3. — A beautiful spring-like day. We resumed our march at 11 o'clock, and encamped in a live-oak grove about ten miles south of Santa Barbara. Our route has been gener- ally near the shore of the ocean. Timber is abundant, and the grass and other vegetation luxuriant. Distance 10 miles. January 4. — At the " Rincon," or passage between two points of land jutting into the ocean, so narrow that at high tides the surf dashes against the nearly perpendicular bases of the mountains which bound the shore, it has been supposed the hostile Californians would make a stand, the position being so advantaffeous to them. The road, if road it can be called, where all marks of hoofs or wheels are erased by each succeeding tide, nms along a hard sand-beach, with occasional projections of small points of level ground, ten or fifteen miles, and the surf, even when the tide has fallen considerably, frequently reaches to the bellies of the horses. Some demonstration has been confidently expected here, but we encamped in this pass the first day without meeting an enemy or seeing a sign of one. Our camp is close to the ocean, and the roar of the surf, as it dashes against the shore, is like that of an immense cataract Hundreds of i " grampus whale are sporting a mile or two dis- iant from the land, spouting up water and spray to a gic height, in columns lesembling steam from the escape-pipes of ■teamboats. Distance miles. Jan. 5. — The prize-schooner Julia was ly^Tig oflf in sight liili NO FIGHT COLD LODGINOS. 887 morning, for the purpose of co-operating with us, should there he any attempt on the part of the enemy to interrupt the march oi the battalion. We reached the mission of San Buenaventura, and encamped a short distance from it at two o'clock. , Soon after, a small party of Californians exhibited themselves on an eleva- tion just beyond the mission. The battalion was immediately called to arms, and marched out to meet them. But after the discharge of the two field-pieces, they scampered away like a flock of antelopes, and the battalion returned to camp, with none killed or wounded on either side. Under the behef that there was a larger force of Californians encamped at a distance of some five or six miles, and that during the night they might attempt a surprise, or plant cannon on the summit of a hill about a mile from camp, so as to annoy us, a party, of which I was one, was detached after dark to occupy the hill secretly. We marched around the mission as privately as possible, and took our position on the hill, where we remained all night without the least disturbance, except by the tempestuous wind, which blew a blast so cold and piercing as almost to congeal the blood. When the sun rose in the morning, I could see far out in the ocean, three vessels scudding before the gale like phantom-ships. One of these was the little schooner that had been waiting upon us while marching along the " Rmcon." Dis- tance 14 miles. Jan. 6. — The wind has blown a gale in our faces all day, and the clouds of dust have been almost blinding. The mission of San Buenaventura does not differ, in its general features, from those of other establishments of the same kind heretofore de- scribed. There is a large garden, enclosed by a high wall, at- tached to the mission, in which I noticed a great variet} of fruit- trees and ornamental shrubbery. Tliere are also numerous enclosures, for cultivation, bv wiUow hedges. The soil, when properly tilled, appears to be highly productive. This mission is situated about two miles from the shore of a small bay or in- dentation of the coast, on the edge of a plain or valley watered b\ the Rio Santa Clara, which empties into the Pacific at this point A chain of small islands, from ten to twenty xoiles from t]»« 888 HOSTILE CALIFORNIANS shore, commences at Santa Barbara, and extends south along the coast to the bay of San Pedro. These islands present to the eye a barren appearance. At present the only inhabitants of the mission are a few Indians, the white population having abandoned it on our approach, with the exception of one man, who met us yesterday and surrendered himself a pris- oner. Proceeding up the valley about seven miles from the mission, we discovered at a distance a party of sixty or seventy mount- ed Californians, drawn up in order on the bank of the river. This, it was conjectured, might be only a portion of a much larger force stationed here, and concealed in a deep ravine which runs across the valley, or in the canadas of the hills on our left. Scouting-parties mounted the hilLs, for the purpose of ascertain- ing if such was the case. In the mean time, the party of Cali- fornians on our right scattered themselves over the plain, pran- cing their horses, waving their swords, banners, and lances, and performing a great . variety of equestrian feats. They were mounted on fine horses, and there are no better horsemen, if as good, in the world, than Californians. They took special care, however, to keep beyond the reach of cannon-shot. The battalion wheeled to the left for the purpose of crossing a point of hills jutting into the plain, and taking the supposed concealed party of the enemy on their flank. It was, however, found im- practicable to cross the hills with the cannon ; and returning to the plain, the march was continued, the Californians still pran- cing and performing their antics in our faces. Our horses were so poor and feeble that it was impossible to chase them with any hope of success. As we proceeded they retreated. Some of the Indian scouts, among whom were a Delaware named Tom, who distinguished himself in the engagement near San Juan, and a Californian Indian named Gregorio, rode towards them ; and two or three guns were discharged on both sides, but without any damage, the parties not being within dangerous gun-shot distance of each other. The Californians then formed themselves in a body, and soon disappeared behind some hills on our right We encamped about four o'clock in the valley/ COURIKR FROM LOS ANGELES. 389 the mnd blowing almost a hurricane, and the dust flying so af nearly to blind us. Distance 9 miles. Jan. 1. — Continuing our march up the valley, we encamped near the rancho of Carrillo, where we found an abundance of corn, wheat, and frijoles. The house was shut up, having been deserted by its proprietor, who is said to be connected with the rebellion. Californian scouts were seen occasionally to-day on the summits of the hills south of us. Distance 7 miles. Jan. 8. — Another tempestuous day. I do not remember ever to have experienced such disagreeable eflfects from the wind and the clouds of dust in which we were constantly enveloped, driving into our faces without intermission. We encamped this afternoon in a grove of willows near a rancho, where, as yester- day, we found corn and beans in abundance. Our horses, con- sequently, fare well, and we fare better than we have done One- fourth of the battalion, exclusive of the regular guard, i) kept under arras during the night, to be prepared against sur prises and night-attacks. Distance 12 miles. January 9. — Early this morning Captain Hamley, accompa nied by a Californian as a guide, came into camp, with dispatche- from Commodore Stockton. The exact purport of these dis- patches I never learned, but it was understood that the commo- dore, in conjunction with General Kearny, was marching upon Los Angeles, and that if they had not already reached and taken that town, (the present capital of California,) they were by this oime in its neighborhood. Captain Hamley passed, last night, the encampment of a party of Californians in our rear. He landed from a vessel at Santa Barbara, and from thence followed us to this place by land. We encamped this afternoon at a rancho, situated on the edge of a fertile and finely- watered plain of considerable extent, where we found com, wheat, and frijoles in great abundar ce. The rancho was owned and occupied by an aged Californian, of commanding and respectable appearance. I could not but feel compassion for the venerable old man, whose sons were now all absent and engaged in the war, while he, at home and unsupported, was suffering the unavoidable inconveni^ncee and calamities resulting from an army being quartered upon him. 33* 390 PASS OF SAN FERNANDO — MORE NEWS. As we march south there appears to be a larger supply ol wheat, maize, beans, and barley, in the granaries of the ranchos. More attention is evidently given to the cultivation of the soil here than farther north, although neither the soil nor climate is so well adapted to the raising of crops. The Califomian spies have shown themselves at various times to-day, on the summits of the hills on our right. Distance 12 mQes. January 10. — Crossing the plain we encamped, about two o'clock, p. M., in the mouth of a canada, through which we ascend over a difficult pass in a range of elevated lulls between us and the plain of San Fernando, or Couenga. Some forty or fifty mounted Californians exhibited themselves on the summit of the pass during the afternoon. They were doubtless a por- tion of the same party that Ave met several days ago, just below San Buenaventura. A large number of cattle were collected ir. the plain and corralled, to be driven along to-morrow for sub- sistence. Distance 10 miles. January 11. — The battahon this morning was divided into two parties : the main body, on foot, marching over a ridge of hills to the right of the read or trail ; and the artillery, horses, and baggage, with an advance-guard and escort, marching by the direct route. We found the pass narrow, and easily to be defended by brave and determined men against a greatly supe- rior force ; but when we had mounted the summit of the ridge there was no enemy, nor the sign of one, in sight. Descending into a Canada on \'he other side, we lialted imtil the main body came up to us, and then the whole force was again reimited, and the march continued. Emerging from the hills, the advance party, to which I was attached, met two Californians, bareheaded, riding in great haste. They stated that they were from the mission of San Fernando; that the Californian forces had met the American forces under the command of General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and liad been defeated after two days' fighting ; and that the Americana had yesterday marched into Los Angeles. They requested to be conducted immediately to Colonel Fre- mont, which request was complied with. A little farther on w« MISSION OF SAN FERNANDO. 391 K^'t a Frenchman, who stated that he was the hearer of a lettei from General Kearny, at Los Angeles, to Colonel Fremont. He confirmed the statement Ave had just heard, and was per- mitted to pass. Continuing our march, we entered the mission of San Fernando at one o'clock, and in about two hours the main body arrived, and the whole battalion encamped in the mission buildings. The buildings and gardens belonging to this mission are in better condition than those of any of these establishments I have seen. There are two extensive gardens, surrounded by high walls ; and a stroll through them afforded a most delightful contrast from the usually uncultivated landscape we have been travelling through for so long a time. Here were brought to- gether most of the fruits and many of the plants of the temperate and tropical climates. Although not the season of flowers, stili the roses were in bloom. Oranges, lemons, figs, and olives hung upon the trees, and the blood-red tuna, or prickly-pear, looked very tempting. Among the plants I noticed the American aloe, {argave Americana,) which is otherwise called maguey. From this plant, when it attains maturity, a saccharine liquor is ex- tracted, which is manufactured into a beverage called pulque, and is much prized by Mexicans. The season of grapes has passed, but there are extensive Aineyards at this mission. I drank, soon after my arrival, a glass of red wine manvifactured liere, of a good quality. The mission of San Fernando is situated at the head of an extensive and very fertile plain, judging from the luxuriance of the grass and other vegetation now springing up. I noticed in the granary from which our horses were supplied with food, many thousand bushels of corn. The ear is smaller than that of the com of the Southern States. It resembles the maize cultivated in the Northern States, the kernel being hard and polished. Large herds of cattle and sheep were grazing upon the plain in sight of the mission. January 12. — This morning two Calif omian oflScers, accom- panied by Tortoria Pico, who marched with us from San Loii Obispo, oame to the mission to treat for peace. A oonsaha' 592 CAPITULATION. tion was held and terms were suggested, and, as I understand, partly agreed upon, but not concluded. The officers left in the afternoon. January 13. — We continued our march, and encamped near a deserted rancho at the foot of Couenga plain. Soon after we halted the Californian peace- commissioners appeared, and the terms of peace and capitulation were finally agreed upon and signed by the respective parties. They were as follows : ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION Made and f-ntered into at the Ranch of Couenga, this thirteenth day of January, eighteen hundred and forty-seven, between P. B. Reading, major; Louis McLane, jr., commanding 3rd Artillery ; William H. Russell, ord- nance otHcer — commissioners appointed by J. C. Fremont, Colonel United States Army, and Military Commandant of California ; and Jose Antonio Carrillo, commandant esquadron ; Augustin Olivera, deputado — commis- sioners appointed by Don Andres Pico, Commander-in-chief of the Califor- nian forces under the Mexican flag. Article 1st. The Commissioners on the part of the Californians agree that their entire force shall, on presentation of themselves to Lieutenant- colonel Fremont, deliver up their artillery and public arms, and that they shall return peaceably to their homes, conforming to the laws and regula- tions of the United States, and not again take up arms during the war be- tween the United States and Mexico, but will assist and aid in placing the country in a state of peace and tranquillity. Article 2iid. The Commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-colonel Fre- mont agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment of the 1st Article by the Californians, that they shall be guarantied protection of life and property, whether on parole or otherwise. Article .7d. That until a Treaty of Peace be made and signed between the United States of North America and the Republic of Mexico, no Cali- fornian or other Mexican citizen shall be bound to take the oath of alle- giance. Article 4th. That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, desiring, is per- mitted by this capitulation to leave the country without let or hinderance. Article 5lh That in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal righte and privi- leges are vouchsafod to every citizen of California, as are enjoyed by the citizens of the United States of North America. Article 6th. All ollicers, citiz»n.s, foreigners or others, shall receive Uia protection guarantied by the 2d Article. Arl.cle 7lh. This capitulation is intended to bo no bar in effecting luck wrtangemeaXa an may iu future be in justice required by both partiea ARRIVK AT LOS ANGELES. 89S ADDITIONAL ARTICLE. CiuDAD DE LOS Anqeles, Jed 16th, 1847. That the paroles ol aH officers, citizens and others of the United Statei ajd of naturalized citizens of Mexico, are by this foregoing capitulation cancelled, and every condition of said paroles, from and after this date, are of no further force and effect, and all prisoners of both parties are hereby released. P. B. Reading, Maj. Cal'a. Battalion. Louis McLane, Com'd. Artillery. Wm. H. Russell, Ordnance Officer. Jose Antonio Carrillo, Comd't of Squadron. AuGUSTiN Olivera, Deputado. Approved, J. C. Fremont, Lieut.-Col. U. S. Army, ajid Militfiry Commandant of California. Andres Pico, Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National forces of California. [The next morning a brass howitzer was brought into camp, and dehvered. What other arms were given up I cannot say, for I saw none. Nor can I speak as to the number of Cahfor- nians who were in the field under the command of Andres Pice when the articles of capitulation were signed, for they were never in sight of us after we reached San Fernando.] Distance 12 miles. January 14. — It commenced raining heavily this morning. Crossing a ridge of hills we entered the magnificent undulating plain surrounding the city of Angels, now verdant with a carpet of fresh vegetation. Among other plants I noticed the mustard, and an immense quantity of the common pepper-grass of our gardens. We passed several warm springs which throw up large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. Urging our jaded animals through the mud and water, which in places was very deep, we reached the town about 3 o'clock. A more miserably clad, wretchedly provided, and unprepos- sessing military host, probably never entered a civilized city. In all except our order, deportment, and arms, we might have been mistaken for a procession of tatterdemalions, or a tribe of Nomades from Tartary. There were not many of us so fortu- nate as to have in our possession an entire outside garment 894 GEN. Kearny's repokt. and several were without hats or shoes, or a complete covering to their bodies. But that we had at last reached the terminua of a long and laborious march, attended with hardships, expo- sure and privation rarely suffered, was a matter of such heart- felt congratulation, that these comparatively trifling inconve- niences were not thought of. Men never, probably, in the en- tire history of military transactions, bore these privations with more fortitude or uttered fewer complaints. We had now arrived at the abode of the celestials, if the in- terpretation of the name of the place could be considered as indicative of the character of its population, and drenched with rain and plastered with mud, we entered the " city of the An- gels," and matched through its principal street to our tempo- rary quarters. We found the town, as we expected, in the pos- session of the United States naval and military forces under the command of Commodore Stockton and General Kearny, who, after two engagements with six hundred mounted Californians on the 8th and 9th, had marched into the city on the 10th. The town was almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, and most of the houses, except those belonging to foreigners, or occupied as quarters for the troops, were closed. I met here many of the naval officers whose agreeable acquaintance I had made at San Francisco. Among others were Lieutenants Thompson, Hunter, Gray, and Renshaw, and Captain Zeilin of the marines, all of whom had marched from San Diego. Dis- tance 12 miles. CHAPTER XXXIV. Military operations of General Keaniy and Commodore Stockton — Thefa reports to the Secretaries of War and Navy — Battles of San Pasqual an4 San Gabriel Thb operations of General Ke? my in California, and after- varda the joint operations of Commodore Stockton and Genera) GEN. KEARNY*S REPORT. 39^ Kearny, which resulted in the defeat of the CaUfornians on the 8th and 9th of January, and tlie capture of Los Angeles, are clearly and concisely stated in their official reports to the War Department, which were dispatched to Washington by lieut. Gray of the navy, and Lieut. Emory of the army, immediately after ovir arrival at Los Angeles. The reports are subjoined. Headquartkrb, Army op the West, / San Diego, Upper California, Dec. 12, 1846. > Sir : As I have previously reported to you, I left Santa F^ (New Mexico) for this country on the 25th September, with 300 of the 1st dragoons, under Major Sumner. We crossed to the bank of the Del Norte at Albuquerque, (65 miles below Santa F6,) continuing down on that bank till the 6th Octo- ber, when we met Mr. Kit Carson, with a party of sixteen uen, on his way to Washington City, with a mail and papers, an express fron Commodore Stockton and Lieut.-Col. Fremont, reporting that the Califv nias were al- ready in possession of the Americans under their command ; tl, t the Amer- ican flag was flying from every important position in the territo •, and that the country was forever free from Mexican control; the war i i,ded, and peace and harmony established among the people. In consequence of this information, I directed that 200 dragoons, under Major Sumner, should re- main in New Mexico, and that the other 100, with two mountain-howitzers, under Captain Moore, should accompany me as a guard to Upper California. With this guard, we continued our march to the south, on the right bank of the Del Norte, to the distance of about 230 miles below Santa Fe, when, leaving that river on the 15th October, in about the 33d deg. of latitude, we marched westward for the Copper-mines, which we reached on the 18th, and on the 20th reached the river Gila, proceeded down the Gila, crossing and recrossing it as often as obstructions in our front rendered necessary ; on the lllh November reached the Pimos village, about 80 miles from the settlements in Sonora. Those Indians we found honest, and living comfort- ably, having made a good crop this year ; and we remained with them two days, to rest our men, recruit our animals, and obtain provisions. On the 22d November, reached the mouth of the Gila, in latitude about 32 degrees — our whole march on this river having been nearly 500 miles, and, with but very little exception, between the 32d and 33d parallels of latitude This river, (the Gila,) more particularly the northern side, is bounded nearly the whole distance by a range of lofty mountains ; Jind if a tolerable wagon-road to its mouth frojn the Del Norte is ever discovered, it must bb on the south side. The country is destitute of timber, producing but few cotton-wood am . -"lUsquit-trees ; anri though the soil on the bottom-lands ii generally good, vet we found but very little grass or vegetation, in cons» 396 GBN. KEARNT*S REPORT. qnence of the dryness of the climate and the little rain which fells her* The Pimos Indians, who make good crops of wheat, corn, vegetables, &c., irrigate the land by water from the Gila, as did the Aztecs, (the former in- habitants of the country,) the remains of whose sequias, or little canals, were seen by us, as well as the position of many of their dwellings, and a large quantity of broken pottery and earthenware used by them. We crossed the Colorado about 10 miles below the mouth of the Gila, and marching near it about 30 miles further, turned off and crossed the desert- a distance of about 60 miles — without water or grass On the 2d December, reached Warner's rancho, (Agua Caliente,) the frontier settlement in California, on the route leading to Sonora. On the 4th we marched to Mr. Stokes's rancho, (San Isabella,) and on the 5th, were met by a small party of volunteers, under Captain Gillespie, sent out from San Diego by Commodore Stockton, to give us what information they possessed of the enemy, 600 or 700 of whom are now said to be in arms and in the field ^throughout the territory, determined upon opposing the Americans and resisting their authority in the country. Encamped that night near another rancho (San Maria) of Mr. Stokes, about 40 miles from San Diego. The journals and maps, kept and prepared by Captain Johnston, (my aid-do-camp,) and those by Lieutenant Emory, topographical engineers, which will accompany or follow this report, will render any thing further from me, on this subject, unnecessary. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, ; S. W. KEARNY, Brigadier-general, U. S. A Brigadier-general R. Jones, ) Adjutant-general, USA > HEADatJARTERS, ArMY OF THE WeST, San Diego, Upper California, Dec. 13, 1846. Sir: In my communication to you of yesterday's date, I brought the le- ports of the movements of my guard up to the morning of the 5th instant, in camp near a rancho of Mr. Stokes, (Sautu Maria,) about 40 miles from San Diego. Having learned from Captain Gillespie, of (he volunteers, that there was an armed party of Californians, with a number of extra horses at San Pati- qual, three leagues distant on a road loading to this place, I sent Lieutenant llamtiiond, Ist dragoone with a few men to make a recounoissance of them. He returned at two in I »o norning of the f'th instant, reporting that he had found l\w party in the ;>iuce mentioned, and that he had bf'-'n seen, though not purHued by them. I then determined that I wouin march for Rad attack thorn by break of day. Arrangements were accordingly mad* 6BN. KBARNT*S REPf RT. 391 tot the purpose. My aid-de-camp, Capt. Johnston, dragoons, was assigned to the command of the advanced guard of twelve dragoons, mounted on the best horses we had ; then followed about fifty dragoons under Capt. Moore, mounted, with but few exceptions, on the tired mules they had ridaen from Santa F6, (New Mexico, 1,050 miles;) then about twenty volunteers of Captain Gibson's company under his command, and that of Captaui Gilles- pie ; then followed our two mountain-howitzers, with dragoons to manage them, and under the charge of Lieutenant Davidson of the 1st regiment The remainder of the dragoons, volunteers, and citizens, employed by the officers of the staff, &c., were placed under the command of Major Swords, (quartermaster,) with orders to follow on our trail with the baggage, and to see to its safety. As the day (December 6) dawned, we approached the enemy at SanPeis- qual, who was already in the saddle, when Captain Johnston made a furious charge upon them with his advance-guard, and was in a short time after supported by the dragoons ; soon after which the enemy gave way, having kept up from the beginning a continued fire upon us. Upon the retreat of the c-iieniy, Captain Moore led ofl^ rapidly in pursuit, accompanied by the dragoons, mounted on horses, and was followed, though slowly, by the others on their tired mules ; the enemy, well mounted, and among the best horse- men in the world, after retreating about half a mile, and seeing an interval between Captain Moore and his advance and the dragoons coming to his support, rallied their whole force, charged with their lances, and, on account of their greatly superior numbers, but few of us in front remained untouched ; for five minutes they held the ground from us, when our men coming up, we again drove them, and they fled from the field, not to return to it, which we occupied and encamped upon. A most melancholy duty now remains for me : it is to report the death of my aid-de-camp, Captain Johnston, who was shot dead at the commence- ment of the action ; of Captain Moore, who was lanced just previous to the final retreat of the enemy ; and of Lieutenant Hammond, also lanced, and who survived but a few hours. We had also killed two sergeants, two cor- porals, and ten privates of the 1st dragoons ; one private of the volunteers, and one man, an engage in the topographical department. Among the wounded are myself, (in two places,) Lieutenant Warner, topographical engineers, (in three places,) Captains Gillespie and Gibson of the volunteers, (the former in three places,) one sergeant, one bngleman, and nine privates of the dragoons ; many of these surviving from two to ten lance wounds, most of them when unhorsed and incapable of resistance. Our howitzers were not brought into the action ; but coming to the frott at the close of it, before they were turned, so as to admit of being fired upon the retreating enemy, the two mules before one of them got alarmed, and freeing themselves from their drivers, ran off, and among the enem}( SLoi ▼as thus lost to us. 34 396 GEN. Kearny's aeport. The enemy proved to be a party of 16C Californians under Andres Pic«^ brother of the late governor ; the number of their dead and wounded mas* have been considerable, though I have no means of ascertaining how many, as just previous to their final retreat, they carried off all excepting six. The great number of our killed and wounded proves that our officen and men have fully sustained the high character and reputation of our troops ; and the victory thus gained over more than double our force, may assist in forming the wreath of our national glory. I have to return my thanks to many for their gallantry and good condu«** on the field, and particularly to Capt. Turner, first dragoons, (assistant acting adjutant-general,) and to Lieut. Emory, topographical engineers, who were active in the performance of their duties, and in conveying orders from me to the command. On the morning of the 7th, having made ambulances for our wounded, and interred the dead, we proceeded on our march, when the enemy showed himself, occupying the hills in our front, but which they left as we ap- proached ; till, reaching San Bernado, a party of them took possession of a hill near to it, and maintained their position until attacked by our advance, who quickly drove them from it, killing and wounding five of their number, with no loss on our part. On account of our wounded men, and upon the report of the surgeon that rest was necessary for them, we remained at this place till the morning of the 11th, when Lieut. Gray, of the navy, in command of a party si sailors and marines, sent out from San Diego by Com. Stockton, joined us We proceeded at 10, a. m., the enemy no longer showing himself; and on the I2th, (yesterday,) we reached this place ; and I have now to offer my thanks to Com. Stockton, and all of his gallant command, for tho very many kind attentions we have received and continue to receive from the m. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, S. W. KEARNY, Brig. Gen. U. S. A. BaiGADIBR-GENERAL R. JoNES, Adjutant-general, U. S. A., Washington. Headquarters, Army of the West, Ciudad de los Angeles, Upper California, Jan. 12, 1847. Sir : I have the honor to report that, at the request of Com. R. F. Stock- ton, United Stales Navy, (who in September last assumed the title of gov ernor of C-'alifornia,) I co isentcd to take command of an e.xpedition to thi" place, (the capital of tlie country ) and that, on the 29th December, I left San Diego with about ."iOO meui lonsisting of sixty dismounted dragooni under Capt. Turner, fifty California vohintoors, and the remainder of ma- rines and sailors, with a battery of artillery — Lieut. Emory (topographical engineers) acting as asHistaut adjutant-general. Com. Stockton accom' panied ua. GEN. KEARNY*S REPORT. 399 We proceeded on our route without seeing the enemy, till on the 8th iliBtant, when they showed themselves in full force of 600 mounted men, with four pieces of artillery, under their governor, (Flores,) occupying the heights in front of us, which commanded the crossing of the river San Gabriel, and they ready to oppose our further progress. The necessary dis- position of our troops was immediately made, by covering our front with a strong party of skirmishers, placing our wagons and baggage-train in rear of them, and protecting the flanks and rear with the remainder of the com- mand. We then proceeded, forded the river, carried the heights, and drove the enemy from them, after an action of about an hour and a half, during which they made a cliarge upon our left flank, which was repulsed ; soon after which they retreated and left us in possession of the field, on which we encamped that night. The next day (the 9th instant) we proceeded on our march at the usual hour, the enemy in our front and on our flanks: and when we reached the plains of the Mesa, their artillery again opened upon us, when their fire was returned by our guns as we advanced ; and after hovering around and near us for about two hours, occasionally skirmishing with us during that time, they concentrated their force and made another charge on our left flank, which was quickly repulsed. Shortly after which they retired, we contin- uing our march, and we (in the afternoon) encamped on the banks of the Mesa, three miles below this city, which we entered the following morning (the 10th instant) without further molestation. Our loss in the actions of the 8th and 9th was small, being but one private killed, and two officers — Lieut. Rowan of the navy, and Capt. Gillespie, of the volunteers, and eleven privates wounded. The enemy, mounted on fine horses, and being the best riders in the world, carried off their killed and wounded, and we know not the number of them, though it must have been considerable. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, S. W. KEARNY, Brigadier-general. Brigadier-general R. Jones, Adjutant-general, U. S. A., Washington. Statement of killed and wounded in the action of the 8th January, 1847 Killed. — Frederick Strauss, seaman. United States ship Portsmouth, ar- tillery corps ; cannon-shot in neck. Wounded. — 1st. Jacob Hait, volunteer, artillery driver, wound in left breast ; died on evening of 9th. 2d. Thos. Smith, ordinary seaman, United States ship Cyaue, company D, musketeers, shot, by accident, through the right thigh ; died on night of the 8'..h. 3d. William Cope seaman. United States ship Savannah, company B, musketeers, wound in flw right thigh and right arm ; severe. 4'i,h. George Bantum, ordi- nary seaman, United States ship Cvane, pikeman, punctured wound of 400 GEN. Kearny's report hand, accidental ; slight. 5th. Patrick Campbell, seaman, United States ship Cyane, company D, musketeers, wound in thigh by spent ball ; sligh-- 6th. William Scott, private. United States marine corps, ship Portsmouth, wound in the chest, spent ball ; slight. 7th. James Hendry, seaman. United States ship Congress, company A, musketeers, spent ball, wound over stomach ; slight Sth. Joseph Wilson, seaman. United States ship Congress, company A, musketeers, wound in right thigh, spent ball ; slight. 9th. Ivory Coffin, seaman, United States ship Savannah, company B, mus- keteers, contusion of right knee, spent ball ; slight. Wounded on the 9th. — 1st. Mark A. Child, private, company C, 1st regiment United States dragoons, gunshot wound in right heel, penetrating upwards into the ankle-joint ; severe. 2d. James Cambell, ordinary sea- man, United States ship Congress, company D, carbineers, wound in right foot, second toe amputated ; accidental discharge of his own carbine. 3d George Crawford, boatswafe's mate. United States ship Cyane, company D, musketeers, wound in left thigh ; severe. Lieut. Rowan, United States navy, and Capt. Gillespie, California battalion, volunteers, contused slightlj by spent balls. I am, sir, most respectfully, your obedient servant, JOHN S. GRIFFIN, Assistant Surgeon, U. S. N CapL Wm. H. Emory, Assistant Adjutant-general, U. S. forces. CiDDAD DE LOS Angeles, California, Jan. 11, 1847 HEADQrARTERS, ArMY OF THE WeST, "i Ciudad de los Angeles, Upper California, Jan. 14, 1847. \ Sir: This morning. Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, of the regiment of mounted riflemen, reached here with 400 volunteers from the Sacramento ; the enemy capitulated with him yesterday, near San Fernando, agreeing to lay down their arms, and we have now the prospect of having peace and quietness in this country, which I hope may not be interrupted again. I have not yet received any information of the troops which were to come from New York, nor of those to follow me from New Mexico, but presume they will be liere before long. On their arrival, I shall, agreeably to the instructions of the President of the United States, have the manage- ment of affairs in this country, and will endeavor to carry out his views io relation to it. Very respectfully your obedient servant, S. W. KEARNY Brigadier-genermL Buoadier-orneral R. Jones, Adjutant-gemral, U S. A., Waikingtom COMMODORE STOCKTON's REPORT. 401 HEADaUARTERS, ClUDAD DE LOS AnOELES, ) January 11, 1847. S Sra : I have the honor to inform you that it has pleeised God to crown mki poor efforts to put down the rebellion, and to retrieve the credit of our arms, with the most complete success. The insurgents determined, with their whole force, to meet us on our march from San Diego to this place, and to decide the fate of the territory by a general battle. Having made the best preparation I could, in the face of a boasting and vigilant enemy, we left San Diego on the 29th day of December, (that portion of the insurgent army who had been watching and annoying us, having left to join the main body,) with about six hundred fighting men, composed of detachments from the ships Congress, Savannah, Portsmouth, and Cyane, aided by General Kearny, with a detachment of sixty men on foot, from the first regiment of United States dragoons, and by Captain Gillespie, with sixty mounted riflemen. We marched nearly one hundred and forty miles in ten days, and found the rebels, on the 8th day of January, in a strong position, on the high bank of the " Rio San Gabriel," with six hundred mounted men and four pieces of artillery, prepared to dispute our passage across the river. We waded through the water, dragging our guns after us, against the galling fire of the enemy, without exchanging a shot, until we reached the opposite shore, when the fight became general, and our troops having re- pelled a charge of the enemy, charged up the bank in a most gallant man- ner, and gained a complete victory over the insurgent army. The next day, on our march across the plains of the " Mesa" to this place, the insurgents made another desperate effort to save the capital and their own necks ; they were concealed with their artillery in a ravine until we came within gunshot, when they opened a brisk fire from their field- pieces on our right flank, and at the same time charged both on our front and rear. We soon silenced their guns, and repelled the charge, when they fled, and permitted us the next morning to marcli into town without any further opposition. We have rescued the country from the hands of the insurgents, but 1 fear that the absence of Colonel Fremont's battalion of mounted riflemen will enable most of the Mexican officers, who have broken their parole, to escape to Sonora. I am happy to say that our loss in killed and wounded does not exceed twenty, whilst we are informed that the enemy has lost between seventy uid eighty. This dispatch must go immediately, and I will wait another opportuiutj 84* 402 COMMODORE STOCKTON S I JIPORT. to furaiah you with the details of these two battlf e, and the gallant condne* of the officers and men under my command, with their names. Faitb^illy, your ohedient servant, R. F. STOCKTON, Commodore, ^e To the Hon. George Bancroft, )FT, ) on, D. C. \ Secretary of the Navy, Washingt P. S. Enclosed I have the honor to send to you a translation of the lett-^i handed to me by the commissioners mentioned in another part of this dispatch, sent by Jos6 Ma. Flores, to negotiate peace honorable to both nations. The verbal answer, stated in another page of this letter, was S3nt to this renowned general and commander-in-chief. He had violated hia honor, and I would not treat with him nor write to him. General Flores' letter is here given — [Translation.] Civil and Military Oovernment of the Department of California. The undersigned, governor and commandant-general of the department, and commaader-in-chief of the national troops, has the honor to address himself to the commander-in-chief of the naval and land forces of the United States of North America, to say that he has been informed by per- sons worthy of credit, that it is probable at this time the differences which have altered the relations of friendship between the Mexican republic and that of the United States of North America have ceased, and that you looked for the news of the arrangement between the two governments by the schooner Shark, expected every moment on this coast. A number of days have elapsed since the undersigned was invited by several foreign gentlemen settled in the country, to enter into a communica- tion with you, they acting as mediators, to obtain an honorable adjustment for both forces, in consequence of the evils which all feel are caused by the unjust war you wage ; but the duty of the undersigned prohibited bin! from doing so, and if to-day he steps beyond the limits marked out by iv, it is with the confidence inspired by the hope there exists a definitive ar- rangement between the two nations ; for the uudorsigned being animated with tlie strongest wishes for the return of peace, it would be most painful to him not to have taken tiie means to avoid the useless effusion of human blood and its terrible consequences, during moments when the general peace might have been secured. The undersigned flatters himself with this hope, and for that reason has thought ii op|)orluno to (wrcct to you this note, which will be placed in your hands by Messrs. Julian Workman and Charles Fluge, who have ▼oluntarily olhired themselves to act us mediators. But if, uufortunuteiy, the mentioned news Klir)iil(l prnvc> untrue, and you should not be disposed U COMMODORE STOCKTON's REPORT. 403 grtat a truce to the evils under which this unfortuaate country Buffers, of whioli 70U alone are the cause, may the terrible consequences of your want of consideration fall on your head. The citizens, all of whom compose the national forces of this department, are decided firmly to bury themselves under the ruins of their country, combating to the last moment, before con- senting to the tyranny and ominous discretionary power of the agents of the government of the United States of North America. This is no problem ; different deeds of arms prove that they know how to defend their rights on the field of battle. The undersigned still confides you will give a satisfactory solution to this affair, and in the mean time has the honor of offering to you the assuranot of his consideration and private esteem. God and liberty ! JOSE MA. FLORES Headquarters at the Angbles, i January 1, 1847. S General Order. Headquarters, Ciudad db lob Anobi.eb, i January 11, 1847. ^ ' The commander-in-chief congratulates the officers and men of the southern division of the United States forces in California, on the brilliant victories obtained by them over the enemy on the 8th and 9th instants, and on once more taking possession of the " Ciudad de los Angeles." He takes the earliest moment to commend their gallantry and good con- duct, both in the battle fought on the 8t]i, on the banks of the " Rio San Gabriel," and on the 9th instant, on the plains of the " Mesa." The steady courage of the troops in forcing their passage across the " Rio San Gabriel," where officers and men were alike employed in drag- ging the guns through the water against the galling fire of the enemy, without exchanging a shot, and their gallant charge up the banks against the enemy's cavalry, has perhaps never been surpassed ; and the cool de- termination with which, in the battle of the 9th, they repulsed the charge of cavalry made by the enemy at the same time on their front and rear^ nas extorted the admiration of the enemy, and deserves the best thanks JJ thnr countrjrmen. R. F. STOCKTON, Ghternor and Commander-in-chief of the Territory of Califorma 404 COMMODORE STOCKTON's REPORT. On the 14th, Colonel Fremont had arrived, and Commodore Stockton wrote as follows — HlADaUARTERS, ClUDAD DE LOB AmQEUS, ) January 15, 1847. \ Sir : Referring to my letter of the 11th, I have the honor to inform you »f the arrival of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont at this place, with four hun- dred men — that some of the insurgents have made their escape to Sonora, and that the rest have surrendered to our arms. Immediately after the battles of the 8th and 9th, they began to disperse ; and I am sorry to say that their leader, Josd Ma. Flores, made his escape and that the others have been pardoned by a capitulation agreed upon by Lieutenant-colonel Fremont. Jos6 Ma. Flores, the commander of the insurgent forces, two or three days previous to the 8th, sent two commissioners with a flag of truce to my camp, to make a " treaty of peace." I informed the commissiouers- that I could not recognise Jos6 Ma. Flores, who had broken his parole, as an honorable man, or as one having any rightful authority, or worthy to be treated with — that he was a rebel iu arms, and if I caught him I would have him shot. It seems that not being able to negotiate with me, and having lost the battles of the 8th and 9th, they met Colonel Fremont on the 12th instant, on his way here, who, not knowing what had occurred, he entered into the capitulation with them, which I now send to you; aud, although I refused to do it myself, still I have thought it best to approve it. The territory of California is again tranquil, and the civil governmeiil formed by me is again in operation in the places where it was interrupted by the insurgents. Colonel Fremont has five hundred men in his battalion, which will be quite sufficient to preserve the peace of the territory ; and I will immediately withdraw my sailors and marines, and sail as soon as possible for the coasl of Mexico, where I hope they will give a good account of thpmselves, Faithfully, your obedient servant, R. F. STOCKION, Commodore, ^ To the Hon. Geof >ie Bancroft, Secretary of the Navy, Waahingtor. rv, i ., D. C I CITT OF AlTGEUi. 405 CHAPTER XXXV. City of Angels — Gardens — ^Vineyards — Produce of the vine in California- General products of the country — Reputed personal charms of the fe- males of Los Angeles — San Diego — Gold and quicksilver mines — Lowei California — Bituminous springs — Wines — A Kentuckian among the an- gels — Missions cf San Gabriel and San Luis Rey — Gen. Kearny and Cora. Stockton leave for San Diego — Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton — Com. Shubrick's general order — Insur- rection in the northern part of California suppressed — Arrival of Col. Cook at San Diego. La Ciudad de los Angeles is the largest town in California, containing between fifteen hundred and two thousand inhabitants. Its streets are laid out without any regard to regularity. The buildings are generally constructed of adobes one and two sto- ries high, with flat roofs. The public buildings are a church, quartel, and government house. Some of the dwelling-houses are frames, and large. Few of them, interiorly or exteriorly, have any pretensions to architectural taste, finish, or conveni- ence of plan and arrangement. The town is situated about 20 miles from the ocean, in an extensive undulating plain, bounded on the north by a ridge of elevated hills, on the east by high mountains whose summits are now covered with snow, on the west by the^cean, and stretching to the south and southeast as far as the eye can reach. The Rio St. Gabriel flows near the town. This stream is skirted with numerous vineyards and gardens, enclosed by willow hedges. The gardens produce a great variety of tropical fruits and plants. The yield of the vineyards is very abundant ; and a large quantity of wines of a good quality and flavor, and aguardiente, are manufactured here. Some of the vineyards, I understand, contain as many as twenty thousand vines. The produce of the vine in Califor- nia will, undoubtedly, in a short time form an important item in its exports and commerce. The soil and cUmate, especially 406 CITY OF ANGELS. of the southern portion of the country, appear to be peculiarly adapted to the culture of the grape. We found in Los Angeles, an abundance of maixe, wheat, and &ijoles, showing that the surrounding country is highly produc- tive of these important articles of subsistence. There are nc mUls, however, in this vicinity, the universal practice of Cali- fornian famiUes being to grind their corn by hand ; and conse- quently flour and bread are very scarce, and not to be obtained in any considerable quantities. The only garden vegetables which I saw while here, were onions, potatoes, and chile color ado, or red pepper, which enters very largely into the cuisine of the country. I do not doubt, however, that every description of garden vegetables can be produced here, in perfection and abundance. WhUe I remained at Los Angeles, I boarded with two or three other officers, at the house of a Mexican Californian, the late alcalde of the town, whose political functions had ceased. He was a thin, delicate, amiable, and very pohte gentleman, ti'eating us with much courtesy, for which we paid him, when his bill was presented, a very liberal compensation. In the morning we were served, on a common deal table, with a cup of coffee and a plate of tortillas. At eleven o'clock, a more substantial meal was provided, consisting of stewed beef, sea- soned with chile Colorado, a rib of roasted beef, and a plate of frijoles, with tortillas, and a bottle of native wine. Our supper was a second edition of the eleven o'clock entertainment. The town being abandoned by most of its population, and especially by the better class of the female portion of it, those who remained, which I saw, could not, without injustice, be considered as fair specimens of the angels, which are reputed here to inhabit. I did not happen to see one beautiful or even comely-looking woman in the place; but as the fair descend- ants of Eve at Los Ango'es have an exalted reputation for per- sonal cliarms, doubtless the reason of the invisibility of those examples of feminine attractions, so far-famed and so much looked for by the sojourner, is to be ascribed to their "una- voidable absence," on account of the dangers and casualties 0/ BAT OF SAN PEDRO. 407 war. At tliis time, of course, every thing in regard to society, as it usually exists here, is in a state of confusion and disor- ganization, and no correct conclusions in reference to it, can bf drawn from observation under such circumstances. The Bay of San Pedro, about twenty- five miles south of Los Angeles, is the port of the town. The bay affords a good an- chorage for vessels of any size, but it is not a safe harbor at all times, as I have been informed by experienced nautical men on this coast. The St. Gabriel river empties into the bay. The mission of San Gabriel is about twelve miles east of Los An- geles. It is represented as an extensive establishment of this kind, the lands surrounding and belonging to it being highly fertile. The mission of San Luis Rey is situated to the south, about midway between Los Angeles and San Diego. This mission, according to the descriptions which I have received of it, is more substantial and tasteful in its construction than any Other in the country ; and the gardens and grounds belonging to it are now in a high state of ciiltivation. San Diego is the most southern town in Upper California. It is situated on the Bay of San Diego, in latitude 33° north. The country back of it is described by those who have travelled through it as sandy and arid, and incapable of supporting any considerable population. There are, however, it is reported on authority regarded as rehable, rich mines of quicksilver, copper, gold, and coal, in the neighborhood, which, if such be the fact, will before long render the place one of considerable impor- tance. The harbor, next to that of San Francisco, is the best on the Pacific coast of North America, between tlie Sti-aits of Fuca and Acapulco. For the following interesting account of Lower California 1 am indebted to Rodman M. Price, Esq., purser of the U. S. sloop-of-war Cyane, who has been connected with most of the importants events which have recently taken place in Upper and Lower California, and whose observations and opinions are valuable and reliable. It will be seen that the observations of Mr. Price diifer materially from the generally received opinioiu in reference to Lower California. 106 LOWER CALIFORNIA Burlington, N. J., Juru 7, 1848. Dear Sm, — It affords me pleasure to give you all the infor- mation I have about Lower California, derived from persona, observation at several of its ports that I have visited, in the U. S. ship Cyane, in 1846-47. Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of the peninsula of Lower California, is in Lat. 22° 45' N., has a bay that affords a good harbor and anchorage, perfectly safe nine months in the year ; but it is open to the eastward, and the huiTicanes which sometimes occur during July, August, and September, blow the strongest from the southeast, so that vessels will not venture in the bay dming the hm-ricane season. I have landed twice at the Cape in a small boat, and I think a breakwater can be built, at small cost, so as to make a safe harbor at all seasons. Stone can be obtaiaed with great ease from three cones of rocks rising from the sea, and forming the extreme southerly point of the Cape, called the Frayles. Looking to the future trade and com- merce of the Pacific ocean, this great headland must become a most important point as a depot for coal and merchandise, and a most convenient location for vessels trading on that coast to get their supplies. Mr. Ritchie, now residing there, supplies a large number of whale-ships that cruise off the Cape, annually, with fresh provisions, fruits, and water. The supplies are drawn from the valley of San Jose, twenty mQes north of the Cape, as the land in its immediate vicinity is mountainous and sterile ; but the valley of San Jose is extensive and well cultivated, pro- ducing the greatest variety of vegetables and fruits. The sweet and Irish potato, tomato, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, beets, and carrots, are the vegetables ; oranges, lemons, bananas, plan- tains, figs, dates, grapes, pomegranates, and ohves, are its fruits. Good beef and mutton are clieap. A large amount of sugar- cane is grown, from which is made panoche, a favorite sugai with the natives : it is the sirup from the cane boiled down, and run into cakes of a pound weight, and in appearance is like our maple-sugar. Panoche, cheese, olives, raisins, dried figs, and dates, put up in ceroons of hide, with the great staples of the Californiaa— LOWER CALIFORNIA. 409 hides and tallow — make the export of San Jose, which is carried Lo San Bias and Mazatlan, on the opposite coast. This com- merce the presence of the Cyane interrupted, finding and cap- ruring in the Bay of La Paz, just after the receipt of the news of war on that coast, in September, 1846, sixteen small craft; '.nii up during the stormy season, engaged in this trade. I cannot dismiss the valley of San Jose, from which the crew of the Cyane have drawn so many luxuries, without alluding to the never-failing stream of excellent water that runs through it (to which it owes its productiveness) and empties into the Gulf here, and is easily obtained for shipping when the surf is low. It is now frequented by some of our whale-ships, and European vessels bound to Mazatlan with cargoes, usually stop here to get instructions from their consignees before appearing off the port ; but vessels do not anchor during the three hum- "ane months. The view from seaward, up this valley, is beauti- ful mdeed, being surrounded by high barren mountains, which :? the general appearance of the whole peninsula, and gives the "ncression that the whole country is without soil, and unpro- fiuctive. When your eye gets a view of this beautiful, fertUe, cmtivated, rich, green valley, producing all the fruits and vege- 'ftbies of the earth, Lower California stock rises. To one that uias been at sea for months, on salt grub, the sight of this bright spot of cultivated acres, with the tvu-keys, ducks, chickens, eggs, vegetables, and fruit, makes him believe the country an Eldorado. Following up the coast on the Gulf side, after passing Cape Palmo good anchorage is foimd between the peninsula and the island of Cerralbo. Immediately to the north of this island is the entrance to the great and beautiful bay of La Paz. It has two entrances, one to the north and one to the south of the island of Espiritu Santo. The northern one is the boldest and safest for all craft drawing over twelve feet. The town of La Paz is at the bottom or south side of the bay, about twenty miles from the mouth. The bay is a large and beautiful sheet of water. The harbor of PicheHnque, of perfect millpond stillness, is formed inside of this bay. The Cyane lay at tbig quiet anchorage several days. Pearl-fishing is the chi^ 3d 410 LOWER CALIFORNIA employment of the inhabitants about the bay, and the pearls are said to be of superior quaUty, I was shown a necklace, valued at two thousand dollars, taken in this water. They are all found by diving. The Yaque Indians are the best divers, gomg down in eight-fathom water. The pearl shells are sent to China, and are worth, at La Paz, one dollar and a half the arroha, or twen- ty-five pounds. Why it is a submarine diving apparatus has not been employed in this fishery, with all its advantages over Indian diving, I cannot say. Yankee enterprise has not yet reached this new world. I cannot say this either, as a country- man of ours, Mr. Davis, living at Loretta, has been a most sue cessful pearl-fisher, employing more Indians than any one else engaged m. the business. I am sorry to add that he has suffered greatly by the war. The country about La Paz is a good gra zing country, but very dry. The mountains in the vicinity are said to be very rich in minerals. Some silver-mines near San Antonio, about forty miles south, are worked, and produce well. La Paz may export one hundred thousand dollars a year of platapina. Gold-dust and \irgin gold are brought to La Paz. The copper and lead mines are numerous and rich. To the north of La Paz are numerous safe and good harbors. Es- condida, Loretta, and Muleje, are all good harbors, formed by the islands in front of the main land. The island of Carmen, lying in front of Loretta, has a large salt lake, which has a solid salt siirface of several feet thickness. The salt is of good quahty, is cut out like ice, and it could supply the world. It has here- tofore been a monopoly to the governor of Lower California, who employed convicts to get out the salt and put it on the beach ready for shipping. It is carried about a quarter of a mile, and is sent to Mazatlan and San Bias. A large quantity of salt is used in producing silver. To the north of Muleje, which is nearly opposite Guymas, the gulf is so much naiTOwer that it is a harbor itself. No accurate sm'vey has ever been made of it — indeed, all the peninsula, as well as the coast of Upper California, is laid down wrong on the charts, being about twelve miles too far easterly. The English government now hare two oaval ships engaged in surveying the Gulf of California LOWER CALIFORNIA. 411 On the Pacific coast of tlie peninsula there is the great Bay af Magdalena, which has fine harbors, but no water, provisions, or inhabitants. Its shores are high, barren mountains, said tc possess great mineral wealth. A fleet of whale-ships have been there during the winter months of the last two years, for a new species of whale that are found there, represented as rather a small whale, producing forty or fifty barrels of oil ; and what is most singular, I was assured, by most respectable whahng captains, that the oil is a good paint-oil, (an entire new quality for fish-oil.) Geographically and commercially, Lower Califor- nia must become very valuable. It will be a constant source of regret to this country, that it is not included in the treaty of peace just made with Mexico. We have held and governed it during the war, and the boundary of Upper California cuts the head of the Gulf of California, so that Lower California is left entirely disconnected with the Mexican territory. Cape St. Lucas is the great headland of the Pacific ocean, and is destined to be the Gibraltar and entrepot of that coast, or perhaps La Paz may be preferred, on account of its superior harbor. As a possession to any foreign power, I think Lower California more valuable than the group of the Sandwich Isl- ands. It has as many arable acres as that group of islands, with rich mines, pearl-fishing, fine bays and harbors, with equal health, and all their productions. As a country, it is dry, mountainous, and sterile, yet possessing many fi^ne valleys like San Jose, as the old mission establishments indicate. I have heard Todas Santos, Comondee, Santa Guadalupe, and others, spoken of as being more extensive, and as productive as Sao Jose. I am, most faithfully and tiiily, yours, RODMAN M. PRICE, Purser, U. S. Navy. EowiN Bryant, Esq., City Hotel, New York. In the vicinity of Los Angeles there are a number of warm springs which throw out and deposite large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. This substance, when it cools, becomes hard 412 BITUMEN VINEYARD WINES. and brittle, like rosin. Around some ot these springs manv acres of ground are covered with this deposite to the depth of several feet. It is a principal material in the roofing of houses. When thrown upon the fire it ignites immediately, emitting a smoke like that from turpentine, and an odor like that froin bituminous coal. This mineral, so abundant in California, may one day become a valuable article of commerce. There are no reliable statistics in California. The traveller is obliged to form his estimate of matters and things chiefly from his own observation. You can place but little reliance upon information derived from the population, even when they choose to answer your questions ; and most generally the re- sponse to your inquiries is — " Quien sabe," (who knows ?) No CaUfornian troubles his brains about these matters. The quan- tity of wines and aguardiente produced by the vineyards and distilleries, at and near Los Angeles, must be considerable — basing my estimate upon the statement of Mr. Wolfskill, an American gentleman residing here, and whose house and vine- yard I visited. Mr. W.'s vineyard is young, and covers about forty acres of ground, the number of vines being 4,000 or 5,000. P>om the produce of these, he told me, that last year he made 180 casks of wine, and the same quantity of aguardiente. A cask here is sixteen gallons. When the vines mature, their produce will be greatly increased. Mr. W.'s vineyard is doubt- less a model of its kind. It was a delightful recreation to stroll through it, and among the tropical fruit-trees bordering its walks. His house, too, exhibited an air of cleanliness and com- fort, and a convenience of arrangement not often met with in this country. He set out for our refreshment three or four specimens of his wines, some of which would compare favorably with the best French and Madeira wines. The aguardiente and peach-brandy, which I tasted, of Iiis manufacture, being mel- lowed by age, were of an excellent flavor. The quantity of wine and aguardiente produced in California, I would suppose, amounted to 100,000 casks of sixteen gallons, or 1,600,000 gallons. Th's quantity, by culture, can be increased indefinitely. It was not possible to obtain, at Los Angeles, a piece of wool* SCARCITY OF CLOTHING CLIMATB. 418 en cloth sufficiently large for a pair of pantaloons, or a pair of shoes, which would last a week. I succeeded, after searching through all the shops of the town, in procuring some black cotton-velvet, for four yards of which I paid the sum of $12. In the United States the same article would probably have cost $1.50. For four dollars more I succeeded in getting the pan- taloons made up by an American tailor, who came into the country with General Kearny's forces. A Rocky Mountain trapper and trader, (Mr. Goodyear,) who has established himself near the Salt Lake since I passed there last year, fortunately arrived at Los Angeles, bringing with him a quantity of dressed deer and elk skins, which were purchased for clothing for the nearly naked soldiers. Among the houses I visited while here, was that of Mr. Pryor, an American, and a native of Louis\alle, Ky. He has been a resident of the country between twenty and thirty years, but his Kentucky manners, frankness, and hospitality still adhere to him. I remained at Los Angeles from the 14th to the 29 th of January. During this time, with the exception of three days, the weather and temperature were pleasant. It rained one day, and during two days the winds blew strong and cold from the northwest. The nights are cool, but fires are not requisite to comfort. The snow-clad mountains, about twenty-five or thirty miles to the east of us, contrast singularly with the brilliant fresh verdure of the plain. On the 18th of January General Kearny, with the dragoons, left for San Diego. There was understood to be a difference between General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and Gen- eral Kearny and Colonel Fremont, in regard to their respective powers and duties ; which, as the whole subject has subsequently imdergone a thorough investigation, and the result made pubhc, it is imnecessary for me to allude to more particixlarly. I did not converse with General Kearny while he was at Los Angeles, and consequently possessed no other knowledge of his \'iews and intentions, or of the powers with which he had been inrested by the President, than what I derived from report 35* 414 ARRIVAL OF COM. SHUBRICK. On the 19tli, Commodore Stockton and suite, witli a small escort, left for San Diego. Soon after his departiu-e the bat- taUon was paraded, and the appointment of Colonel Fremont as governor of California, and Colonel W. H. Russell as secre- taiy of state, by Commodore Stockton, was read to them by Colonel Russell. It was announced, also, that although Colonel Fremont had accepted the office of chief ci^dl magistrate of Cal- ifornia, he would still retain his military office, and command the battalion as heretofore. From the date of the annexed cncular, v/hich I find pubhshed in the " Californian" newspaper of Feb. 6th, it was written three days after the public announcement of Colonel Fremont as gov- ernor, as above stated. A CIRCULAR. The peace of the country being restored, and future tranquillity vouchsafed by a'treaty made and entered into bj' commissioners respectively appointed by the properly authorized California officers, on the one hand, and by ray- self, as military commandant of the United States forces in the district of California, on the other, by which a civil government is to take place of the military, an exchange of ail prisoners, etc., etc., forthwith ensure to the end that order, and a wholesome civil police, should obtain throughout the laud. A copy of which said treaty will be immediately published in the California newspaper, published at Monterey Therefore, in virtue of the aforesaid treaty, as well as the functional that in me rest as civil governor of California, I do hereby proclaim order and peace restored to the country, and require the immediate release of all pris- oners, the return of the civil officers to their appropriate duties, and as strict an obedience of the military to the civil authority ue is consistent with the security of peace, and the maintenance of good order when troops are garrisoned. Done at the capitol of the territory of California, temporarily seated at ae Ciudad de ios Angeles, this 22d day of January, a. d. 1847. J. C. FREMONT, Governor and commander-in-chief of California. Witness — Wm. H. Russell, Secretary of State. Commodore Shubrick bad, however, arrived at Monterey on the 23d of January, in the U. S. ship Independence, and rank- ing Commodore Stockton, had assumed the chief command in California, as appears by the date of the following general order^ published in the " Californian" newspaper at Monterey : — ▲irOTIIER INSURRECTION SUPPRESSED. 415 GENERAL ORDER. The commander-in-chief has great satisfaction in announcing to the in- nabitants of Monterey, that, from information received from various sourcea, he has every reason to believe that the disorders vrhich have recently dis- turbed the territory of California are at an end, and that peace and security are restored to this district certainly, and he hopes to the whole territory. The improved state of affairs in the district, and the arrival of a company of United States artillery, under Captain Tompkins, has enabled the com- mander-in-chief to dispense with the services of the company of mounted volunteers, under Lieutenant Maddox, of the marine corps. The patriotic fcettlers who composed this company nobly stepped forward in time of dan- ger, and stood between the flag of the United States and the defenceless women and children of Monterey, on the one hand, and the bands of lawless disturbers of the peace on the other. For such disinterested conduct, the company of mounted volunteers under Lieutenant Maddox, of tlie marine corps, (acting as captain,) is tendered the thanks of the commander-in-chief, and will without doubt receive commen- dation and due recompense from the general government. Given on board the U. S. ship Independence, harbor of Monterey, Feb- ruary 1st, 1847. W. BRADFORD SHUBRICK, Commander-in-chief. To explain some of the allusions in the preceding " General Order" of Commodore Shubrick, it is necessary to state that an insurrection, headed b}' Don Francisco Sanchez, had broken out in the upper portion of California some time towards the last of December, which had been put down by a detachment of marines and volunteers. The insurgents had committed some outrages, and among other acts had taken prisoner Lieu- tenant W. A. Bartlett, acting Alcalde of San Francisco, with some other Americans. An account of the suppression of this affair, I find in the " Californian" newspaper of February 6th, 1847, from which it appears " that a party of one hundred and one men, commanded by Captain Ward Marston of the United States marines, marched from San Francisco on the 29th De- cember in seaich of the enemy, whom they discovered on the 2d of January, about one hundred in number, on the plains of Santa Clara, under the command of Francisco Sanchez. An attack was immediately ordered. The enemy was forced to re- tire, which they were able to do in safety, after some resistance, in consequence of their superior horses. The affair lasted abonl 416 ANOTHER INSURRECTION SUPPRESSED. an hour, during which time we had one marine slightly wounded m the head, one volunteer of Captain Weber's command in the leg ; and the enemy had one horse killed, and some of their forces supposed to be killed or wounded. In the evening the enemy sent in a flag of truce, with a communication, request- ing an interview with the commanding officer of the expedition the next day, which was granted, whew an armistice was en- tered into, preparatory to a settlement of the difficulties. On the 3d, the expedition was reinforced by the mounted Monterey volunteers, fifty-five men, under command of Captain William A. T. Maddox, and on the Vth by the arrival of Lieutenant Grayson with fifteen men, attached to Captain Maddox's com- pany. On the 8th a treaty was concluded, by which the enemy surrendered Lieutenant Bartlett, and the other prisoners, as well as all their arms, including one small field-piece, their am- munition and accoutrements ; and were permitted to return peaceably to their homes, and the expedition to their respective posts." A list of the expedition which marched from San Francisco i.<5 given as follows : Captain Ward Marston, commandant ; As- sistant-surgeon J. Duval, aid-de-camp. A detachment of United States marines under command of Lieutenant Tansil, thirty-four men ; artillery consisting of one field-piece, under the charge of Master William F. De longh, assisted by Mid. John M. Kell, ten men ; Interpreter Jolin Pray ; mounted com- pany of San Jos(' volunteers, under command of Captain C. M. Weber, Lieutenant John Murphy, and acting Lieutenant John Reed, thirty-three men; mounted company of Yerba Buena volunteers, under command of Captain William M. Smith, Lieu- tenant John Rose, with a small detachment under Captain J. Martin, twelve men. Thus ended the insurrections, if resistance against invasion can properly be so called, in Upper California. On the 20th of January, the force of sailors and marines which had marched with Commodore Stockton and General Kearny, left Los Angeles to embark at San Pedro for San Di- ego. On the 2l8t a national salute was fired by the artillerj LEAVE LOS ANGELES. 417 company belonging to the battalion, in honor of Governor Fre* mont. On the 22(1, letters were received from San Diego, sta- ting that Colonel Cooke, who followed General Kearny from Santa Fe with a foi'ce of four hundred Mormon volunteers, had reached the neighborhood of that place. Having applied for my discharge from the battalion as soon as we reached Los Angeles, I received it on the 29th, on which day, in company wrth Captain Hastings, I set out on my return to San Fran- cisco, designing to leave that place on the first favorable oppor- tunity for the United States. CHAPTER XXXVI. Leave Loe Angeles for San Francisco — Doa Andre? Pico — A Califomiat. returning from the wars — Domestic life at a rancbo— Women in favor ol peace — Hospitable treatment — Fandango— Singular custom — Arrive ai Santa Barbara — Lost in a fog — Valley of the Salinas — Californiaus want ing Yankee wives — High waters — Arrive at San Francisco. We left Los Angeles late in the afternoon of the 29 th of Januaiy, with two Indian vaqueros, on miserable, broken-down horses, (the best we could obtain,) and encamped at the deserted rancho at the foot of Couenga plain, where the treaty of peaiie had been concluded. After we had been here some time, two Indians came to the house, who had been sent by the oroprietor of the rancho to herd the cattle. Ha-\ing notnmg to eat with us, a tempting offer prevailed upon the Indians to milk one of the cows ; and we made our supper and our breakfast next morning on milk. Both of our Indian vaqueros deserted in the night, carrying with tbem sundry articles of clothing placea in their charge. A few days have made a great change in me appearance of the country. The fresh grass is now several inches in height, and many flowers are in h.ootn. itxe usj ia bright, and the temperature deUghtfoL 418 DON ANDRES PICO — RKTURNINr; WARRIOR. On the EOth of January, leaving the mission of San Fernanda on oui- right, at a distance of eight or ten miles, we followed the usually travelled trail next to the hills, on the western side of the plain. As we were passing near a rancho, a well-dressed Californian rode out to us ; and after examining the horses of our miserable caballada, politely claimed one of them as his property. He was told that the horse was drawn from the pubhc caba- llada, at Los Angeles, and could not be given up. This seemed to satisfy him. After some further conversation, he informed us that he was Don Andres Pico, the late leader and general of the Californians. The expression of his countenance is in- ^elUgent and prepossessing ; and his address and manners courteous and pleasing. Shaking hands and bidding us a very earnest adios, he put spurs to his horse and galloped away. We were soon after overtaken by a yoimg Californian, who appeared at first rather doubtful whether or not he should make our acquamtance. The ice being broken, however, he became very loquacious and communicative. He stated that he was returning to his home, near Santa Barbara, from the wars, in which he had been engaged against his will. The language that he used was, that he with many others of his acquaintances, were forced to take up arms by the leading men of the country. He was in the two battles of the 8th and 9th of January, below Los Angeles ; and he desired never to be in any more battles. He was heartily rejoiced that there was peace, and hoped that there would never be any more wars. He travelled along with us until afternoon, wher he fell behind, and we did not see him again until the next day. After passing two or three deserted houses, we reached an inhabited rancho, situated at the extremity of a valley, and near a narrow gorge in the hills, about four o'clock, and our jaded animals performing duty with reluctance, we determined to halt for the night, if the prospect of obtaining any thing to eat (of which we stood in much need) was flattering. Riding up to the house, a small adobe, with one room, and a shed for a kitclu'.n, the ranchero and the ranchera came out and greeted us witb a hearty " Buenos tardea Seflorea, paisanoa, aminos," shaking CAMFORNIAN KITCflEJX. 419 hands, and inviting us at the same time to alight and remain for the night, which invitation we accepted. The kind-hearted ranchera immediately set about preparing supper for us. An Indian muchacha was seated at the metdte, (hand-mill,) which is one of the most important articles of the Californian culinary apparatus. While the muchacha ground, or rather crushed the wheat between the stones, the ranchera, with a platter-shaped basket, cleansed it of dust, chaff, and all impure particles, by tossing the grain in the basket. The flour being manufactured and sifted through a cedazo, or coarse sieve, the labor of kneeding the dough was performed by the muchacha. An iron plate was then placed over a rudely-constructed fur- nace, and the dough being beaten by hand into tortillas, (thin cakes,) was baked upon this. What would American house- wives say to such a system as this ? The viands being pre- pared, they were set out upon a small table, at which we were invited to seat ourselves. The meal consisted of tortillas, stewed jerked- beef, with cAi/e seasoning, milk, and quesadillas, or cheese- cakes, green and tough as leather. However, our appetites were excellent, and we enjoyed the repast with a high relish. Our host and hostess were very inquisitive in regard to the news from below, and as to what would be the effects of the conquest of the country by the Americans. The man stated that he and all his family had refused to join in the late insvuTection. We told them that all was peaceable now ; that there would be no more wars in California ; that we were all Americans, all Californians, — hermanos, hermanas, amigos. They expressed their delight at this information by numerous exclamations. We asked the woman how much the dress which she wore, a miserable calico, cost her? She answered, " Sets pesos," (six dollars.) When we told her that in a short time, under the American government, she could purchase as good a one "jcor un peso," she threw up her hands in astonishment, expressing by her features at the same time the most xmbounded delight Her entire wardrobe was soon brought forth, and the price paid for every article named. She then inquired what would b« 420 AMERICAN POPULARITY — AMUSEMENTS. tLe cost of similar clothing under the Ame.ican go\ ernment; which we told her. As we replied, exclamation followed upon exclamation, expressive of her surprise and pleasure, and the whole was concluded with " Viva los Americanos — viva los Ameticanos /" 1 wore a large coarse woollen pea-jacket, which the man was very desirous to obtain, offering for it a fine horse. I declined the trade. In the evening several of the brothers, sisters, and bro- thers and sisters-in-law of the family collected, and the guitar and violin, which were suspended from a beam in the house, were taken down, and we were entertained by a concert of in- strumental and vocal music. Most of the tunes were such as are performed at fandangos. Some plaintive airs were played and sung with much pathos and expression, the whole party joining in the choruses. Although invited to occupy the only room in the house, we decUned it, and spread our blankets or the outside. The next morning (January 31st) when we woke the sxxn was shining bright and warm, and the birds were singing gayly in the grove of evergreen oaks near the house. Ha\'ing made ready to resume our journey, as delicately as possible we of- fered our kind hostess compensation for the trouble we had given her, which she declined, saying, that although they were not rich, they nevertheless had enough and to spare. We however insisted, and she finally accepted, with the condition that we would also accept of some of her quesadillas and tor- tillas to carry along with us. The ranchero mounted his horse and rode witli us three or four miles, to place us on the right trail, when, after inviting us very earnestly to call and see him again, and bidding us an affectionate adios, he galloped away. Travelling over a hilly country and passing the ruins of several deseiled ranclios, the grounds surrounding which were strewn with the bones of slaughtered cattle, we reached, about five o'clock, 1'. M., a cluster of houses in the valley of Santa Clara river, ten miles east of the mission of San Buenaventura. Here we stopped at the house of a man named Sanchez. Our arri- ral was thouglit '.o be wortliy of notice, and it vras accoidingly SINGULAR CUSTOM. 421 celebrated in the evening by a fandango given at one of the houses, to which we were invited. The company, to the number ot' some thirtj'' or forty persons, young and old, were assembled in the largest room of the house, the floor being hard clay. The only furniture contained in the room was a bed and some benches, upon which the company seated themselves when not engaged in dancing. Among the senoritas assembled, were two daughters of an American named Cliapman, who has been a resident of the country for many years. They were fair-skinned, and might be called handsome. An elder and married sister was also pres- ent. They called themselves Americans, although they did not speak our language, and seemed to be more proud of their American than their Spanish blood. A singular custom prevails at these fandangos. It is this : during the intervals between the waltzes, quadrilles, and other dances, when the company is seated, a young lady takes the floor solus, and after showing off" her graces for sreneral obser- vation a few minutes, she approaches any gentleman she may select and performs a variety of pirouettes and otlier Terpsi- chorean movements before him for his especial amusement and admiration, until he places on her head his hat or cap, as the case may be, when she dances away with it. The hat or cap has afterwards to be redeemed by some present, and this usually k in money. Not dancing ourselves, we were favored with numerous special exhibitions of this kind, the cost of each of which was un jhiso. With a long journey before us, and with purses in a nearly collapsed condition, the drafts upon us became so frequent, that at an early hour, under a plea of fatigue and want of rest, we thought it prudent to beat a retreat, leanng our fair and partial fandangueras to bestow their favors upon others better able to bear them. The motions of the Califor nian females of all classes in the dance are highly graceful The waltz is their favorite measure, and in this they appeal ts excel as much as the men do in horsemanship. During the. progress of the dance, tho males and females improvise dog- gerel rhymes complimentary of the personal beauties, and grace* 86 422 A NIGHT S LODGING. of those ■whom they admire, or expressive of their love and d«- voiion, which are chanted with ihe music of the instruments, and the whole company join in the general chorus at the end of each verse. The din of voices is sometimes almost deafening. Our host accompanied us to our lodgings on the opposite Bide of the way. Beds were spread down under the small porch outside, and we laid our bodies upon them, but not to sleep, for the noise of the fandango dancers kept us awake until broad daylight, at which time it broke up. Hiring fresh horses here, and a vaquero to drive our tired animals after us, we started about 9 o'clock in the morning, and passing through San Buenaventura, reached Santa Barbara, 45 miles, a little after two in the afternoon. We stopped at the house of Mr. Sparks, who received us with genuine hospital- ity. Santa Barbara presented a more lively appearance than when we passed here on our way down, most of its population having returned to their homes. Procuring fresh but miserably poor horses, we resumed our journey on the afternoon of tlie 2d of February, and encamped at tlie rancho of Dr. Den, situated on the plain of Santa Barbara, near the seashore. The soil of this plain is of the most fertile composition. The fresh grass is now six or eight inches high, and the varieties are numerous. Many of the early flowers are in bloom. I noticed a large wheat-field near the house, and its appearance was such as to promise a lich harvest. The rain fell heavily on the morning of the 3d, but continu- ing our journey we crossed tlie St. Ynes mountain, and jtass- ing the mission by that name, reached the rancho of Mr. Faxon after dark, where we halted for the night. Around the mis- sion of St. Ynes I noticed, as we passed, immense quantities of cattle-bones thickly strewn in all directions. Acres of ground were white with these remains of the inamense hei'ds belonging to this mission in the days of its prosperity, slaughtered for their hides and tallow. We met two or three elegantly-dres.sed (Lilifornians to-day, who accosted us with much civility and ap- parent friendliness. Mr. Faxon is an Englisl^man by birth, and has resided in »««• Oir« MR. BRANCH. 4X9 Cafifornia about thirty \ft}ir<^ He is married to h Californian lacj^. and has a faniilv of Tnf»«r>Ninmfl: and beautiful childrwi. A large portion of the land belonging to his rancho is admirably adapted to agriculture, and he raises crops of com and vege- tables as well as wheat without irrigation. He informed me that the yield of wheat on his rancho was fully seventy bushels to the acre. Mr. F. showed me specimens of lead ore from which he moulds his bullets, taken from an inexhaustible mine in the Tular valley, some fifty miles distant from this. It is cer- tainly the richest ore that I have ever seen, appearing almost like the pure metal. He also showed me a caustic alkali, pro- duced by burning a plant or shrub which grows in great abun- dance in the Tular valley. This substance is used by him in the manufacture of soap. About noon on the 4th, we halted at the rancho of Captain Dana, where we procured fresh horses, leaving our wretchedly lean and tired animals, and proceeding on, stopped for the night at the rancho of Mr. Branch, an intelligent American, origin- ally from the state of New York, who has been settled in the country a number of years. His rancho is situated on what is called the arroyo grande, a small stream which empties into the Pacific some two or three miles from the house. The house is new, and constructed after American models of farm- bouses, with neat and comfortable apartments, chimneys and fireplaces. The arable lands here are finely adapted to the culture of maize, wheat, and potatoes. Our horses straying, it was twelve o'clock on the 5th before we found them. The rain had fallen steadily and heavily all night, and during the forenoon, and was poiiring down when we started. We passed through the mission of San Luis Obis- po just before sunset, intending to halt at a rancho about three miles distant in a Canada. But the storm increasing in strength, it became suddenly so dark in the mountain-gorge, that wft aould not distinguish the trail ; and after wandeiing about some time, vainly attempting to find tlie house, we were compelled tc bivouac, wet to our skins, without fire or shelter, and the raio pouring down in torrents. 424 EARLY l'LCWERS--SAN LORENZO. The uext mornmg, (Feb. 6,) in hunting up our loose horses, we discovered thp house about half a mile distant from our camp. Continuing ou.r journey, we halted about nine o'clock at a rancho near the ruins of Santa Margarita. A solitary Indian was the only occupant of the house, and only inhabitant of the place ; and he could furnish us with no food. Passing two or three other deserted ranchos, we reached the house of a Mexi- can about one o'clock, where we obtained a meal of fried eggs and tortillas, after having been without food thirLy hours. Late in the afternoon we arrived at the mission of San Miguel, now occupied by an Englishman named Reed, liis mestiza wife, and one chUd, with two or three Indian vaqueros. Crossing the Salinas in the morning, (Feb. 7,) we continued down its eastern side, and encamped in a wide bottom under a large live-oak. A quesadilla was all we had to eat. This was divided, one half being reserved for breakfast. The fresh vegetation has so much changed the face of the countr}^ on this river since we passed along here in December, that I scarcely recognise it. The grass is six or eight inches high in the bottom, the blades standing so thick as to present a matted appearance, and the hills are biil- Jiant with flowers — pink, purple, blue, and yellow. On the 8th we continued down the eastern bank of the Sali- nas, passing through several large and fertile bottoms, and reachino- tlie rancho of San Lorenzo about twelve o'clock. This rancho, as we learned from the proprietors, is owned by two , bachelor brothers, one of whom told me that he had not been off his lands but once or twice for several years. Large herds of fat cattle and horses were grazing upon the luxuiiant grasses of the plain, and there were several extensive enclosures sowed in wheat, wliich presented all the indications of an abundant harvest. But with all these natural resources surrounding him, the elder brother told us that he had nothing to eat in his house but fresh beef. A quantity of the choice pieces of a fat beef was roisterl by an Indian boy, which we enjoyed with all the relish of liuiigry men. Our host, a gentleman of intelligence and politeness, made apology after apology for his rude style of living, a principal excuse being tint lie had no wife. He in- YANKEE WOMEN WANTED. 425 quired, with apparent earnestness, if we could not send him two pretty, accomplished, and capable American women, whom they could marry ; and then they would build a fine house, have bread, butter, cheese, and all the delicacies, luxuries, and elegancies of life in abundance. He appeared to be well pleased with the conquest of the country by the Americans, and de- skous that they should not give it up. When we resumed our journey in the afternoon, he rode with us four or five miles to show us the waj'' ; and on taking his leave, invited us to return again, when he said he hoped his accommodations would be much improved. Riding 15 miles, we halted at a tule-cabin, where we remained until two o'clock in the morning, when, the moon shining brightly, we mounted our horses and continued our journey. We reached the Monterey road just at daylight. My inten- tion had been to visit Monterey ; but the Salinas being unford- able, and there being no ferry, it was not possible to do it without swimming the river, which I did not feel inclined to do. Monterey is situated on the bay by that name, about 90 miles by water south of San Francisco. The bay affords a good an- chorage and landing in calm weather, being exposed only to the northers, which blow violently. The town contains about 1,500 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and popu- lation. Aniving at the rancho of Don Joaquin Gomez, we found no one but a mestiza servant at home, and could obtain nothing to eat but a qucsadilla. All the streams, large and small, are much swollen by late heavy rains, and the travelling is conse- quently very laborious and difficult. Resting our horses a short time, we crossed the mountains, and reached the mission of San Juan Bautista about noon. At San Juan we met with Messrs. Grayson, Boggs, and a party of volunteers returning from Monterey to San Francisco, havinci- been discharged since the suppression of the rebellion in this part of Cahfornia, headed by Francisco Sanchez. Here we learned, for the first time, the arrival at Monterey of Commo- dore Shubrick in the ship Independence, and of the Lexington irth Captain Tompkins's company of artillery, and freighted 36- 486 ARRIVE AT SAN FRANCISCO. otherwise with munitions, storeS; and tools necessary to* the erection and defence of durable fortifications at Monterey and San Francisco. Seven or eight miles beyond San Juan, we found that the waters of the arroyo had risen so as to inundate a wide valley which we were compelled to cross. After making several inef- fectual attempts to reach the opposite side, wading through the water, and sometimes falling into deep holes from which it was difficult for either men or horses to extricate themselves, we en- camped for the night on a small elevation in the valley, entirel} surrounded by water. Our condition was miserable enough. Tired, wet, and hungry, we laid down for the night on the damp ground. The next day, (Feb. 10,) about eleven o'clock, we succeeded in finding a ford across the valley and stream, and procured dinner at a soap-factory on the opposite side, belonging to T. 0. Larkin, Esq. Continuing on, we encamped at a rancho occu- pied by an Englishman as mayor domo. He was very glad to see us, and treated us with unbounded hospitality, furnishing a superabundance of beef and frijoles for our consiimption. On the 11th, about three p. m., we arrived at the Pueblo de San Jose ; and finding there a launch employed by Messrs. Howard & Melius in collecting hides, bound for San Francisco, we em- barked in her, and on the morning of the 13th, arrived at that place. We found lying here the U. S. sloop Warren, and Lieutenant Radford politely furnished us with a boat to land. In the afternoon the Cyane.. CommonJer Dupont, with Gen. Keainy on board, and the ?i.ore- s/iip Erie, with Col. Mason on board, arrived in the harbor. Col. Mason is from the U. States direct, via Panama, "nd brings late and interesting intelligence. The Cyane and Warren have just returned from a cruise on the southern P.icific coast of Mexico. The town of Guymas hiid bc'>i HOOD;" " BLUE BEARD," and "JACK THE GIANT KILLER." Embellished with Eighty Elegant Engravings, designed by AlfredCroiuq^ ill. The above work is one of the finest of its class in every particular. 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A book designed to aid the English student at once to exactness and elegance of expression. Wc have for years had two copies of the manual in constant employ, one at our oifice desk itixd one p home. — O&ngregationalist, Boston. The new edition is Tastly superior to all fonner one.q. 'While there are many dictionaries ani* works on synonyms, none can be named beside this. — Round Table, London. Almost a."" indispensable to all writers as a dictionary. — The World, New York. The Handy Bible Cyclopedia; and liIBL,E-REABEIl'.S ASSISTANT. Containing- a new and complete Illustrated Dictionary of the Holy liible. Compri.siiig a General Index in which the various persons, places, and subjects mentioned in it are accurately referred to and de- scribed, and every difficult word explained. A Complete Coiieordaiiee to the Old nnd Kew Testnments, by Eev. John Brown. An Expiaiiatory Iiidc.v to the persons, places, and subjectts ocetn-ring in the Holy Scriptures. This valuable volume is a complete; treasury of Biblical knowlc dge, and has only to be kno^vn to render it indi.spensable to every Bible reader. Illustrated, 800 pp. 12mo. Price 1 6 cents. By mail 15 cents extra. HURST'S POPULAR CLASSICS. In this popular series are included some.of the choicest productions of the human mind. Both ancient and !nodern literature are repi'eseiit^d. The scries forms the cheapest library ever ottered to the American public. Bound in cloth, gilt, ISmo. Price per vol., 40 cents. By mail 10 cents extra. Gulliver's Travels, and Ovren Meredith. Baron Munchausen. Petrarch. A Good Fight. Ai'ahian Nights. Arnold, Edvrin. IJaniin's Woi-ks. Bible Dictionary. Brief Biographies. Bnrns. Byron. Children of the Abbey. Corinne. Creasy's Fifteen Deci- sive Battles. Dante. Don Qujxote. Eliot, Georgfe. Fa\'orite Poems. Goethe. fpliy of. Franklin, Autobiogra- Goldsmith. Greene, Marlowe, and Jonson. Heine. Hemans. Homer's Odyssey. Homer's Iliad. Hugo. Hypatia. Ingelo\v. Jane Eyre. John Halifax. Kingsley. Knickerbocker. Language and Poetry Tasso. Pilgrim's Progres Poe. Pope. Robinson Crusoe. Komola. Kossetti, Dante. SchUler. Scott. Scottish Chiefs. Sketch-book. Spectatoi". of Flowers Liast of the Moliicans-. Eongfellow. Iiucile. Miss Mnloch. Munchausen. One ThoHsaiul aiid One Tennyson. Thaddeus of 'Warsaw. Thomjison. Tom Brown's School- days. Tupper. [Genis. ( Uarda. Virgil. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF BENJAMIN FRANKLIN. Together -with his Essays on Political, Financial, Moral, Social, and PJiilosophical Subjects. 18mo, clotli. Price 40 ets. By naail lO cts. extra. This is the most instructive and delightful self-history ever published. Franklin not only gives U3 an account of every action of his life, but he unveils his thoughts, gives us his motives— whether cred- itable to him or not. This secret history, renninlnT. i.< of a man who went through every phase of life,— of whom Jefferson said, "England glories in her I.urd Bacon, and America as justly prides her- self upon Benjamin Franklin." Franklin's life is as amusing' as Gil Bias, as instructive as that of Morse- The schoolboy, the scientist, and the statesman alike tmd annisement BHd information in the pleasing pages of " Poor Richard." Every family in the land should hove n copy of this book -■THIE- Fruse Writers of Ameriea ^ J A, OoUection of Eloquent and interesting Eztracts from the "Writings of American Authors. By GEORGE B. CHEEVER This book is an absolute necessity to any one who wishes to be acquainte<^ with the excellencies as well as the peculiarities of our great prose writers and orators. Here will be found specimens of some o/ the most exquisitely fine, grand, fiery, simple, ornate and effective writing and oratory that the language contains- ItiS full of "thoughts that breathe and words that burn." Anyone that has carefuiij read this volume v>'ill be able to realize fully the splendid God-given gen. us cj those that have helped to crush vice, elevate patriotism ana wreathe the pure browj of virtue with amaranthine flowers. We append the names of some of the many authors whose best utterances ap pear in this work : Buckminster, Franklin, Paulding, Kirkland.5 Beecher, Ticknor, ZrovTn, Jay, Nott, Rush, This splendid array of names by no means includes all the gifted persons, specimens of whose works appear in these pages. It would take months of tim? lo go through the hundreds of volumes to find such excellent examples as wiJi Dfi found here. One volume, 12 mo., cloth, 488 pp. Price One Dollax. THE Poets of America. By GEORGE B. CHEEVER. Du Buceau, Big: Elk, Webster, MarshaD . Ramsay, ' Everett, Adams, Cass, Fitch, Red Jacket, Emerson, Madison, Bancroit, Silliraan, Cooper, Ames, Flint Sedgwick, Jefferson, Channing, Guincy, Dwiglit, Irving, Norton, "Waylanc!,. Appleton, Dana, Dennie, Mason, Sparks, Carter, V/Lrt. This work is one much needed. It contains all the most truly beautiful short pieces of American Poetry— the clear wheat winnowed of all chaff. We have only to give a li?t of the names of some of the contributors to this volume to show that its leaves are enriched hy offerings of the very choicest poetical gems. The work contains one or more jioems by Long-fellow, Woodworth, Huntington, Rockwell, Wluttier, Brainard, Sprague, Bryant, Mellen, McLellan, Davidson, Pierpont, Graham, Wilcoi.., Norton , Sands, Sigoumey, Eastburn, Thatcher, Percival, Peabody, Halleck, Lewis, Dawes, "Ware, Dana, Townsend, Hale, GarrisoHj Gilman, ' 1. Everett, Brooks, Doane, Gould. Hillnouse, Pickerin,? Goodrich, Friabee, Willis, Alston, Flint, Neal, There are immcroi:'-. pieces, in addition, which appeared in various lueiary' papers atwnviiwusly, ;,iul which have since become f.inious, and which it is ira. [xjssihlc lo find except in llicse pages. This book is, in truth, the most complete compendium of the best jjoems of our best poets that lias yet been made. It must be remembered, too, that the majority of articles in this book were selcctei' %v the authors aa, ao lo speak, the choicest arrows in their quivers. Ouc Uaiidsouiu volume, i^ mu., cloth, ao(i pp. Pncfi One DollELT. The Perfect Shakespeare. Carefully prepared from the tarliest and more modern editions, selected where coiUiQentators have differed as to the Sense of obscure or doubtful passages, from those rcadinp:s which the ablest critics believe to be the most Shakesperean and best suited to a popular cA\uon, J/hisiraied iviih Thirty Large Ett^-rai/ings, designed by Mr. John Coxen, the celebrated artist and engraver, and a steel portrait of Shakespeare. We have used the term ''^Perfect'''' as applicable to this edition, and anyone that will examine it will see that iu well merits the title; and, indeed, is the only .edition that fully deserves the title if "/Vr/trf." ' There are numerous edi'ionso^ this wonderful writer's works, got up in all styles, and at every price. But, unfortunately they are all more or less faulty. From some editions many of the strongest passages are omitted in deference to squeamish namby-pambyism. In other editions some fanciful critic has tried to improve the language of the mighty master — as if a rushlight could add lustre to the blazing beams of the noonday sun. In other editions, again, many scenes are transposed, till the plays arp made, like. Joseph's coat, a thing "of shreds and patches." But in this Edition, the "Perfect" Shakespeare ./4//the Poems — all the Plays — all the Characters — all the Language — are given un- abridged, clear and "perfect" as they originally sprang from the august brow of this Jove of Poets — the sublime Shakespeare. It is not necessary at this late day to say aught in praise of Shakespeare's works; for they are universally admitted to be the grandest efforts of any human mind. Works that have been eulogized by Ben Johnson, by Dryden, by Addison, by Mi'- ton (PrinC ">f Poets) who has beautifully written of him ar, '■'Sweetest Shakespease — Nature's child — IVarbling his native wood-notes-wild." ieeds no ct- igy from meaner men. IT YOU n^VB BUT ONE BOOK LET THAT BOOK BE "SHAKESPEARE." It is an epitome of all human Passions, Motives, Actions and expressions. None are too low; none too high to miss being instructed as well as delighted by the Plays and Poetry of Shakespeare. Even if a person is not easily moved by "concord of sweet" words it is a mat' ter of I]Srecessaj3:r37- ZPoHji-b© Ed-uLcatioxi. to be well informed about the works of "the sweet Swan of Avon." For one can hardly take up a book, listen to a conversation, or even hear a sermon, but that he will see or hear characters alluded to, or lives quoted from the peerless author of whom Dr. Johnson has truly said: "That the stream of time which washed away the perishable fabrics of poets, passed harmlessly by the adamantine fame of '^'"^kespeare." Jott can Learn the English Language from Shakespeare Alont. The great Hungarian Patriot, Kossuth, who spoke English with the eloquence oi z. Clay or a Webster, says that, while in prison, he learned all that he knew of English with no other book than a "perfect Shakespeare." is in every respect the best edition. Every word of the original is in it. It is printed from new, clear, eaisily read type. It is a fine, large, handsome book — an crnament to a parlor table. It is embellished with many striking illustrations. IT IS SOLD FOR THE EXCEEDINGLY SMALL SUlu. $1.50. The "Perfect" Shakespeare, in addition to the whole of Shakespeare's Comedies, Histories, Tragedies and Poems, all that he ever wrote, contains ihe full te.xt>.: Shakespeare Will as recorded in the office of the Prerogative Court of Canterbury, and aiso a complete exoianatory glossary of all the unusual words or ))hra';es occui- tng in his .vorks, making one Handsome Quarto Volume, Bound in the best En^'-*^ Oc th with artistic designs in Black and Gold on Back and Side. Price ^pies of the above sent hy Mailj to anj^ addiess. HUSiST & CO.. 12 2 N Eissan Stn S>X> Good News for the Little Ones The Kind of Books Boys and Girls Want to Have. SOMETHING TO MAKE HOME HAPPY RARE TREAT FOR THE JUVENILE? ^RFTTY STORIES- PRETTY PICTURES- PRETTY BINDINGS Boys and Girls Story Book. By "COUSIN VIkGINIA." "Tiis, although a new book, is full of the true home-like spirit that filled the stc;-? » r-- s of our childhood. The Coys and Girls Story Book is crammed with the most '' eMifhtiul tales that faiicy ever painted. Boys and Girls, as well as all kinds o( jMnning and interesting animals, figure in the different chapters. What rare, sea- I ned humor, is crowded into "The Dog's Story," "The Experience of a Chicken / one," "The Bat's Story," "The Sunbeam's Story," "The Rat's Family," "Jack's .ircus,'' "How the Canary Bird Caught Cold," and, indeed, every page is alive Mth innocent fun and frolic. Almost every sentence brings a happy smile, except rthere occasionally a sweet, tendei sentiment makes a few precious tears drop into jne nrctty dimples. .-•e children that get this beautiful Book for their holiday gift, will bea',i the happier and better for it. One large elegantly printed 12 mo. vol.. cloth, vitt a superbly designed and engraved cover in black and gold, illustrations. Sent cr nwil.ri'" •-■3 on receipt of price, $1.25 ivierry's Games and Puzzles. The prettiest garden is not more full of Flowers, than is this book of Pictuv-ir t£i\ Stories. And Such Plcturesl all full of life and fun; and Suck S/orui.' f.iir' bi ilin-Tf over with interest. Such a lot of Caincs and Puzzles^ too, as will keep 3 home circle pi