OF THE UNIVERSITY OF LIBRARY RECENT RAMBLES or In Touch with NATURE BY CHARLES C. ABBOTT, M.D. AUTHOR OF "A Naturalist's Rambles about Homey " Waste- land Wanderings," " Outings at Odd Times," Etc. Drink in a goodly draught of the morning breeze, and keep in touch with Nature. ILLUSTRA TED PHILADELPHIA / B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY M D C C C X C I 1 COPYRIGHT, 1892, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY. BIOLOGY, PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY, PHILADELPHIA. V .*. A 3/4- BIOLOGY LIBRARY Preface. WHENEVER opportunity occurs I take an outing, and the following pages are the outcome of two years of rambling. Whether the main incident of these days out of doors proves grave or gay matters little, if it recalls some pleasant adventure to graybeard readers or spurs the ambition of my youthful friends. Succeeding in this, I am well rewarded. When out, on pleasure bent, it is not to be sup- posed that life's shady side will never be turned towards you. Happily, though, the tragedies are one-act, as a rule, while the comedies scarcely know an ending. Even sunshine, however, can be too continuous, and the longest day of summer 3 M580033 Preface. is not necessarily the jolliest To be many-sided ourselves, we must know all that Nature has to tell. With the sky only above us, we are among quickly-shifting scenes and should be blind to none. Sunshine and clouds tell the whole story ; but without the flight of the shadow over the land- scape, without hearing the scream of the victim as well as the exultant cry of the victor, we can never know the world aright,- never keep in touch with Nature. C. C. A. BRISTOL, PENNSYLVANIA, June i, 1892. Contents. PAGE IN TOUCH WITH NATURE 9 A WINTER CAT-BIRD 17 INTIMATIONS 25 A RIVER VIEW 44 IN THE SERPENTS' PATH 51 A VICTIM OF THOREAU 62 ANIMALS AS BAROMETERS . 70 A RECENT RAMBLE 81 MAY-DAY OUT OF TOWN 89 WINDY BUSH 109 ON HISTORIC GROUND 119 ALL DAY AFLOAT 125 AN UP-RIVER RAMBLE 135 A DAY IN NEW MEXICO 144 ROUND ABOUT BISBEE 152 A ROCKY RAMBLE 160 AN ARIZONAN HILL-SIDE 170 IN A SEA-SIDE FOREST 178 A COOL, GRAY DAY 196 i* 5 Contents. PAGE AN AUGUST REVERIE 205 THE DEFENCE OF IDLENESS 220 A PRE-COLUMBIAN MINE 232 WHY DO SOME BIRDS SING? 242 AT A PUBLIC SALE 251 OLD PENNY'S DEAD! 257 THE GATHERING OF THE CLANS 262 CAUGHT IN THE RAIN 270 PERSIMMONS 278 TRACES OF TROGLODYTES 289 IN WINTER-QUARTERS 301 THE DUTCH ON THE DELAWARE 312 List of Illustrations. PAGE IN TOUCH WITH NATURE Frontispiece. WHERE I FOUND THE CAT-BIRD 19 A RIVER VIEW 44 AN INVITING COVE 52 THE BEAUTIES OF A FROG-POND 63 MAY-DAY our OF TOWN 89 " LET NATURE BE YOUR TEACHER" 100 AT WINDY BUSH 116 "AND THE LONG RIPPLE WASHING IN THE REEDS" . . 126 THE HILLS ABOUT BISBEE 152 A COOL, GRAY DAY 197 A BY-ROAD IN AUGUST 207 IDLE DAYS 220 A CONTEMPLATIVE TREE-TOAD 231 WHERE THE SONG-BIRDS GATHER 245 THE HAUNT OF THE BLACKBIRD . . . 262 PERSIMMONS 279 IN WINTER-QUARTERS 303 WHERE THE OLD HOUSE STOOD 317 7 In Touch with Nature. W E carry too much with us when we go into the woods. I had rather dine upon a handful of wild strawberries than gorge myself with canned apri- cots. Doing the former, one is ready to realize what is transpiring; the latter, and the chances are you will feel like a fool. Eat, as a matter of necessity, when in the field ; but do not poison the fresh air of a wilderness with the fumes from a frying-pan. It is a woful error to carry the city in a grip-sack whenever we take to wild life. It forces the thoughts of civilization to the front, and we are simply out of place, while anxious to be in touch with nature. Town trumpery in the woods is mental poison. Twist a broad oak-leaf into a funnel, and you have a goblet worthy of pure spring water ; and if a mussel-shell, reflect- ing all the hues of a sunset sky, is not a spoon to 9 io In Touch with Nature. suit you, keep out of the woods. The shady side of a village street is all you need. There were high hills behind the tent, a broad river in front, and in mid-stream two beautiful islands. The latter were evidently one island originally, although the oldest inhabitant denies it. Whether or not, I shall call them one, for the separating cross-flow of water does not prevent wading from the upper to the lower section. The interest here is threefold, its natural histoiy, its archaeology, and its colonial history. When we find so much worthy of contemplation, and so little of man's destructive interference, it is well to be in touch with our surroundings. Merely catching a glimpse from the car-window of the river and its double island, one would little sus- pect how much has transpired in this quiet nook, and how very much remains of truly olden times. Moss had gathered on the walls of more than one house before the Revolution was dreamed of, and on that island once lived that sturdy hunter that walked (?) sixty odd miles in a day and a half, in the interests of the brothers Penn. This man, Edward Marshall, has passed into In Touch with Nature. 1 1 history, and tales of his exploits in Indian warfare are endless throughout the neighborhood. I sat for a while, one morning, on the porch of his brother's house, holding the doughty Edward's rifle in my lap, the while listening to the strange adventures, as tradition has them, wherein this rifle played a most important part. With it, one story goes, Marshall killed ninety-nine Indians, and his sole regret at dying was, that he had not had opportunity to make it an even hundred. It is true the Indians had killed his wife, but this is overmuch revenge for one who claimed to be a Quaker. Doubtless many a fanciful touch has been added to the family traditions in the last century, but that he was a man of unusual parts is certain. A few words concerning Indians credited to him indicates this : " When I discover an Indian I shut one eye and we never meet again." But let us to weightier matters : awake at dawn, but not responding with commendable promptness to the call of a red-bird perched upon the high rocks behind us, I allowed myself to indulge in that dearest of the day's occupations, matutinal reveries, too often " dear" in every sense of the 12 In Touch with Nature. word. There was endless work to do, but who can resist the golden chains that birds bind about us ? There was a Carolina wren within a stone's throw of the tent, and when it sang, I was down the river fifty miles or more, and rusty barns re- placed the rugged mountains. It is not advocating laziness to lie abed, if life's pleasure comes by so doing, and our time is not another's. To insure being in touch with nature this day, I had the birds rouse me very gradually, and my proper business was to do wholly as I pleased. The sun was well above the Jersey hills when the river was crossed and we stood on the island. I confess to our method being too cold-blooded and business-like. It had been told us that In- dians once lived here ; it was left to us to prove it. Nothing would come amiss, whether bones or stone weapons. It was our purpose to explore, but with the first arrow-head found, I was surfeited ; kicked over the traces and made for the woods. The others labored ; I loafed. Shut in by a goodly company of ancient trees, there was opportunity to reduce loafing to a fine art. I did not offer to take the trees by the hand, but every one patted In Touch with Nature. 13 me upon the back. There was no stereotyped murmur of the wind high overhead, but, instead, a gentle crooning of every tree and shrub : a com- muning among themselves that my presence did not disturb. T was welcome to all they had to tell, but alas ! who has lived that can report the secrets of a forest ? It is idle to attempt it, but none the less is the rambler repaid who can unaffectedly think of trees as his friends. While walking thus aimlessly along, profiting, I trust, through unconscious cerebration, I chanced upon a dark pool that might from appearance have been bottomless, but doubtless was extremely shallow. Probably it would not be remembered now, but for a turtle that proved a physicist, if not a philosopher. It was sunning itself or taking an airing, for the sunshine was limited to very uncer- tain flashes, and resting on a bit of wood more than sufficient for its own needs, but not enough for a neighbor. This latter fact was doubtless well impressed upon its mind, and when presently another turtle popped its head above the surface of the water near the raft and attempted to climb on board, the turtle in possession objected and 14 In Touch with Nature, pushed the intruder back. Again and again the swimming turtle tried, but without success. Brute force failing, the persistent fellow sunk out of sight and was gone perhaps a minute, when it suddenly reappeared in the rear of the one on the raft, and, giving it a quick blow with its snout from below upward, sent it sprawling into the water; then the tricky fellow climbed quickly on board and looked about, oh, so innocently. It was the modern political game of the " ins" and the " outs." It showed, too, that a ready wit counts for a great deal, even among turtles. But now, although little past noontide, the woods began to grow dark; the pleasant murmur ceased, and a forbidding muttering came from the clustered giants of the wood. The lofty tulip- trees were violently moved; the older oaks pro- tested sullenly : a moment of absolute silence, and then the pelting rain. It proved but a passing cloud, and there is no merrier music than tinkling rain-drops rolling from leaf to leaf, splashing and sparkling in the fitful sunbeams. Every bird, too, was ready to sing the song of the shower. Better, I thought, living woods than dead Indians, as I In Touch with Nature. 1 5 re-entered the open country : a conclusion that led to discussion when I saw my campmate's grand dis- covery. He had laid bare a one-time village site, and brought to light many a long-buried secret In suggestive array were the simple weapons with which they hunted and fought ; the devices with \vhich they fished ; the simpler tools with which they tilled the ground ; their corn-mills, cooking utensils and dishes; and, more striking than all else, a cache of more than one hundred beautifully-clipped stone knives that, from the day when the cunning artisan hid them safely until now, had been lying in the ground. They had been closely packed in a small circular hole, so closely that but little sand had sifted between the blades. This was a discovery well worth making, and he is but a sluggish lump of laziness who cannot enthuse under such circumstances. Writes William Strachey, in his " History of Travaile in Virginia," more than two centuries ago : " Their corne and (indeed) their copper, hatchetts, howses (hoes), beades, perle and most things with them of value according to their estymacion, they hide, one from knowledge of another, in the ground within 1 6 In Touch with Nature. the woods and so keep them all the yeare, or until they have fit use for them." Seeing all these things, as I stood on that lonely island, my companion was an Indian : so was I. The whole country was, in very truth, a wilderness, and the owner of this unearthed treasure might well have rushed upon us out of the fast-gathering darkness. A shadowy Indian stalked at my elbow as we crossed over to the main shore ; he stood by the flickering camp-fire while supper was prepared ; nor left us in peace until the moon rose above the mountain and flooded the valley with a searching, silvery light. What volumes of history there may be in a fragment of broken stone ! No mouldering potsherd from the dusty fields, No battered axe but speaks of ancient glory ; No point of arrow that the way-side yields But tells a winsome story. All night I dreamed of a dual existence : that of a loafer and of a relic-hunter, the merits of which battled for supremacy. A red-bird aroused me before sunrise with the question still unanswered, but not so torn by conflicting emotions but that I remained still in touch with Nature. A Winter Cat-Bird. 1 T is not down in the books. Dr. Warren's " Birds of Pennsylvania," even, does not mention it; and the learned ornithologists of elsewhere pronounce it a myth. But there are those who have seen it, nevertheless, and not merely once but often ; have seen lively, healthy, chattering cat-birds in mid- winter, strong enough of wing to have migrated had they so desired. Occasionally there is but one, more frequently there are two, and scarcely less often four or five together, as though a family had elected to remain, even if they must brave a typical old-style winter. Had they known about it, many a migratory bird might have stayed over from autumn until spring, a year ago. There was no dearth of green grass then, nor of active insect life, even in January ; but not so now : to-day the river is a broad field of ice, and scarcely a leaf b 2* 17 1 8 In Touch with Nature. lingers in the sheltered nooks. The greenbrier is a forbidding tangle, offering no shelter from the keen winds that whistle through it ; the tall grasses have long been levelled ; the bare trees stand stiff and stark against a cold gray sky. It is truly a stout-hearted intruder that dares venture now along the river shore, yet such brave creatures are seldom wanting. No winter's blustering ever daunted the chickadee, nor driving snow-storm frightened the crested tit. Less courageous spar- rows and the cardinal red-bird will seek the south- side shelters, and you may ramble for miles and hear not even the twitter of a tree-creeper; but let the next day be warmer, the wind come from the south, and all is changed. Then no nook is too exposed, and we shall have not only birds a-plenty, but bird music. At such a time one may look for January cat-birds. They are no stay- at-homes when the valley is filled with winter sun- shine. Their dreary dens in the dark cedars are promptly vacated. I did not think of over-staying summer birds to-day. It was enough to have the nuthatch make merry as it rattled the loose bark of the A Winter Cat-Bird. birches ; and a hint of May-days brightened the outlook as pine-finches twittered in the tops of the tal^ riverside oaks. And then it was a single bird wrought almost a miracle. A cat-bird threaded the tangled maze of underbrush, perched upon a pebble at the water's edge, intently eyed the frost- bound ripple that it could not reach, flirted its tail impatiently, and uttered its old-time summer plaint, suggestive of many a long-gone August noontide. A moment more and the bird was gone ; but how 20 In Touch with Nature. different that whole day, from the instant of the bird's appearance ! It needs but a tiny twig to ripple the flow of placid waters ; and but for this casual glimpse of a cat-bird, how monotonous might have proved the current of my thought, rambling on such a day ! No, not rambling. It is truer to say, we walk in winter, and ramble in spring; just as one is given to loafing in summer and to taking the world meditatively during autumn's dreamy days. But walking does not forbid a searching glance, as we leave trees, rocks, and frozen river behind. Even from a car window the world may be seen suggestively. Turning, by mere chance, at the proper moment, I once saw a prong-horned ante- lope bounding over the prairie, while the train was speeding through Colorado ; and again, in Arizona, saw the ground cuckoo or chaparral cock running from the train as rapidly as we were moving from it ; yet in neither case did so simple an incident fail to bring back many a bright picture and page after page of many a well-thumbed volume. To walk successfully, every step should give our wits as well as our bodies an impetus. My winter cat- A Winter Cat-Bird. 21 bird, that came and went so quickly, tinged with rosy light the dullest of dull-gray, leaden days. That dreary aspect for which we are prepared at the outset of a walk in winter vanishes into thin air when unlooked-for phenomena become promi- nent. It becomes a matter now of changed con- ditions merely, and not the repellent outlook of a dead past ; while in ourselves a constant longing for a return of better things gives way to eager anticipation. Pleased with what is, we cease to dwell moodily upon what has been. So it proved with the frozen river. The blue waters glittering in golden sunshine, the rippling shallows hid by the encroaching grass, the trembling shadows of overarching trees, these we held dear while sum- mer lasted, but have we nothing left us ? The sun shines fitfully to-day, but when the drifting clouds break from his path, how daintily the ice-gorged shore is tinted ! Never a bow so brilliant in the sky above as the roseate masses of uplifted ice that bind the river. If in the bright blossoms of early June we see only color, we have it here again : the valley and the river offer us not merely the ruins of more genial seasons, but one that 22 In Touch with Nature. teems with merit of its own. Not even the broad expanse of ice, forbidding as this may seem, is shunned ; a white gull even now is searching for open water, and a crow, perched upon drift-wood, calls to his kind that have gathered in the trees along the shore. How wondrously clear is his meaning cry, floating in frosty air ! and does it revive, among other birds, the memory of other days ? It had scarcely died away before the cat- bird reappeared and murmured in his old-time way; the gathering finches chirped far more cheerily than before ; the tit whistled to the pass- ing wind a clearly defiant note. Call this winter if you choose ; shudder at every blast of the cold west wind, and seek the nearest shelter ; but in all fairness use no disparaging adjectives. I have said there was no green thing in my path. True, for a mile or more, but one may turn homeward too soon. It is easy to fail, by a single step, of reaching the great prize of a long day's ramble, but I was not so unfortunate. Beneath the oaks, where the crisp leaves carpeted the frozen turf, prince's-pine grew rankly, and no lus- tier growth greets the eager botanist even in May. A Winter Cat-Bird. 23 Its pearly-striped and dark-green leaves had all the freshness of a flower, and I plucked them quite as eagerly^ There is nothing strange in seeing much, even when Nature seems to close the doors upon you. Even if so disposed, she cannot hide all her treas- ures. And, after all, is it not a misconception upon our part to suppose her back is ever turned, or that she really closes a door upon you ? Can the world be dead or sleeping where there are birds, and living, growing plants ? Plunge but the tip of your finger in the icy waters and you will realize how chill they are ; yet, overturning a little stone, some strange creature darted away and took refuge beneath another sheltering pebble. Even there, where ice-crystals replaced the lush grasses of the past summer, strange forms of life found Nature open-handed ; and if such should spurn to hibernate, why should not we be brave enough to laugh at winter even when he frowns ? It is easy to catalogue the doings of a day, and even less laborious to list the objects that, in a brief walk, we pass by ; but if they are in nowise suggestive, have we really seen them ? About the 24 In Touch with Nature. withered stem should ever linger the ghost of the brilliant blossom. The leafless tree should still cast that shade where in the long June days we were wont to linger. If nothing of this comes of a winter's walk, we have walked in vain. Our limbs may have been exercised, it is true, but what of our wits ? He who sees a winter cat-bird, as I saw one to-day, will not be roused to enthusiasm if the bird is but a mere accident, an overstaying thrush, foolhardy rather than wise. As a mere curiosity, the bird is a flat failure; but in the meagre sunshine, that touched with gold the ice- bound river, this same bird, by its mere presence, clothed every tree with its full complement of leaves ; restored the dead grass to a living green ; unfolded blossoms upon every shrub. While the bird tarried, the swift flight of the winter wind that rocked the oaks and swept through the valley gave forth no dolorous note ; it was but the breath of summer, laden with the melody of many min- strels. Intimations. 1 HE first expanded blossom on the tree at once calls up a vision of the perfect fruit. The cherries of June and peaches of August and all that they mean are enjoyed in anticipation, because of the fluttering white or pink blossom that dots the still dreary landscape. How far the realization will fill the crowded pic- ture of our spring-tide fancy it boots not to con- sider. It is the end of winter now, and let what joy comes of the thought be unalloyed. Of it- self, the present time is not alluring, but precious by reason of its promises. Doubt is out of place if pleasure is our aim, and to seek for intimations that come to the front, even while yet ice and snow prevail, may happily fill the short hours of a win- ter ramble. The drooping branches of the leafless larch, as I see it from afar, are dreary beyond words. Every B 3 25 26 In Touch with Nature. twig is of so dull and rusty a hue that one can think only of decay and death. But, drawing nearer, a faint blush overspreads it all, and when I stand beneath the tree, every twig bears a roseate blossom that has no lovelier rival in the bowers of June. We stand too far aloof and wait until the new birth is quite accomplished. There has been a potent but unobtrusive force long at work, un- suspected because unheralded by blare of trump- ets ; and we, shutting ourselves from Nature, cry " dreary, dreary," because of lack of knowledge and lack of faith. Where the rocks shelter from the wind, and catch the mid-day sunbeams, I turn the heaped-up leaves that have lain since autumn and find green growths are everywhere. Pale spring-beauties are even now in bud, and the purple myrtle offers us its simple flowers as a proof that winter has ceased to kill. The rank leaf-growth of the sassafras is of fresher tint than a month ago, and prince's-pine flourishes even in the shadow of a snow-bank. In the swamps, at the very name of which so many shudder, the skunk-cabbage is well above the ground, and far above them, where there is no Intimations. 27 shelter from the cutting north wind, the buds of the brave maples are ruddy. Even the chilly waters are not without promise, and that dainty, crimson-decked creature, the fairy shrimp, lights up the shady pool with flashes of brilliant color. We have but to look and listen. Many a wood- bird has abundant faith, and far off among the cedars I hear the love-call of the black-cap, and that sweetest of all sounds, the anticipatory warble of the bluebird. To hear this is to be well repaid, whatever you may have undergone. It soothes the smart of every pricking thorn. What fairy structure will not rise at the mind's bidding and shape itself a thing of beauty to the bluebird's song ! Nature, here where I stand, is in truth repulsively brutal ; the margin of the swamp is but scattered ruins of last winter's storms ; but how the jagged edges round off and meet their neighbors ! how green the dead rushes grow ! how quickly the naked branches of a lone tree bend to the little arbor of my early home, while that song of songs fills all the upper air ! The song of the bluebird works a greater miracle than any magician's wand. 28 In Touch with Nature. The river is near by, and across the meadows and beyond the wood I see, floating high overhead and darkly limned against the leaden sky, restless gulls that have wandered from the sea. The naturalist has not yet shown that they have aught to do with any change, but they are oftener seen now than when all signs of winter have disap- peared. This of late years ; but it was not always so. In the long ago of colonial days, and when the Dutch even were the only white people on the Delaware, gulls were as frequent here as swallows in midsummer. But something closer in touch with intimations is near at hand : a flock of red- winged blackbirds. Their keen senses have de- tected the whispered promise, and we may well believe with them that spring is not afar off. True, the north winds may come again, laden with snow and ice, but their fury will be in vain ; no material damage will be wrought, and in the contest between frost and fire, the sun will come off more than conqueror. It is a strange habit that the rambler falls into, this of merely cataloguing. Signs of spring ! These I came to look for, but why not rest content Intimations. 29 when they have been found ? Is not one flower and one song enough ? In such a matter, having one swallow, you can make the summer. The merit of this, the last day of February, is that it is inexpressibly dismal. A chilling northeast storm prevails. The woods moan ; the marsh is wrapped in fog; over the river race the white-capped waves ; the scream of the gulls and cry of despair- ing crows cause me to shudder, but for a moment. Safe by a lordly oak, I can laugh at the storm, and did laugh when, in its sheltered nook, a song- sparrow saw or felt or heard the promise of spring- tide's milder sway, and sang his sweetest of sweet summer songs. Not a creature of all the varied forms of wild life but may have its own almanac and unwritten rules of forecasting the weather. Many a bird or beast or fish but may be our superior in this, and it is little of merit to be only our equal. If there be and who can doubt it pleasure in anticipation, likewise there is in seeking out an intimation in these matters of nature, and, securing it, spend the hours in contemplation. This is a subtle form of fancy that defies description. A 3* 30 In Touch with Nature. plaguing " what of it ?" thrusts itself forward at every discovery you make, and the predetermined wish to be a poet whenever a flower was found or bird sang vanishes. Wrapped in a stout coat, behind a grand old oak, and not weary from long tramping, the outlook seems favorable for indulging in some grand flight ; but no, the flower would not lead me, nor the bird's song suggest a single thought. It was vexing at first, but should not have been. I had my pleasant thoughts as I wan- dered, and what more could I ask ? It is too soon to discuss even the promises of the coming year ; far too soon to consider the fruit thereof. It was but an intimation that was offered when I ventured into the field, and this is too delicate to be dis- sected ; and, to do it justice, we must dream of it, not wrangle over it. The day draws to a close, but not the storm ; yet I have not lost faith. The flower is still mine, and the songs of the brave birds still linger. Surely spring is near at hand when Nature, that so often laughs at our puny efforts to force her to speak out, comes unasked from hidden haunts and vouchsafes us intimations. Intimations. 3 1 A week later : It is not wise to expect much of March, for then every slight favor she grants will be^appreciated the more. Such a favor was the seventh of the month. It brought a bee to the flowering whitlow-grass, and at sunrise a wasp was battering against the window-pane. The sky was blue-black and with not a cloud visible. This was sufficient of an invitation to survey the ruin wrought by the still lingering but now listless winter. Before the town was actively astir I was beyond its limits. The maples were more ruddy than a week ago, and daffodils were up. Even a stray spring -beauty dared look out. Better than all else, the blackbirds were prospecting ; and over the swamp and along the river red-wings and grakles were holding a convention. No, not this, but rather, informally, discussing the outlook. The crows only, I take it, are so far methodical as to hold a convention. This they are known to do annually, and, so far as practicable, in the same places and at the same times. Such a gathering is well worth witnessing. Godman has given us, in his " Rambles of a Naturalist," a vivid account of the crows of ninety years ago, and what he 32 In Touch with Nature. found to say then is applicable now, except in the matter of numbers. He speaks of millions of crows near Bristol, Pennsylvania, but I have never seen so many as one thousand gathered together since living here. Now, to see more than one hundred on the marshes at low tide is an unusual sight. He accords them a considerable degree of intelligence, dnd we can read between the lines that he wished to use stronger terms than he did. He need not have feared contradiction. Admiring their cunning, and convinced of their advanced mental power as compared to other birds, he, strangely enough, felt he was doing the world a service in stooping to be their murderer. At least, where love of nature and wild life in all its phases is strongly developed, we might suppose the insane desire to kill would be effectually restrained. Crows talk, it is true, in an unknown tongue, but their gestures are translatable. The energy with which the leaders lay down the law, or, if argu- ing, make telling speeches, is unmistakable, and the acquiescence or disapproval of the audience, as the case may be, cannot be misconstrued. Who- ever has been at a large political meeting and heard Intimations. 33 the half-whispered " that's so" that fills the room when the orator makes a hit, will readily recognize the subdued ca-a-a that is simultaneously uttered by the whole assembly when a more than usually emphatic caw caw! rings through the tree-tops. Such a crow convention is said to be a sign of spring, and on such a day as this one can well accept it as such. But here an ugly fact crops out that robs the saying of its poetry : the con- vention is much more regular than the season, and when, as sometimes happens, we have no spring, the crows convene just the same. There were crows to-day, but only about the river, where, by reason it may be of unconscious imitation, they rose and fell, swooped and curved with all the grace of the gulls, with which they associated. But the blackbirds were the feature of the day, and a chorus from a thousand throats should, as it did, draw the sting of winter from the air. Bird music will warm the chilliest of days, because of our ever associating it only with spring or summer. Not that we should do so, for there are scores of winter birds that make the dreary way-sides ring with gladness. Like the crows, 34 I n Touch with Nature. they did not only sing but chatted volubly, doubt- less discussing the weather, and so showing, by the bye, that men and birds have one mental trait in common. A general knowledge of prearranged plans as a flock was surely a common possession ; for when they moved, it was no uncertain, aimless drifting from point to point. Presumably a signal was given, for they took wing almost as one creature, and, without breaking ranks, crossed the river to the pines that loomed up black and gloomy on the Jersey shore. Do these flocks have leaders ? It is a fair question. Many of their movements suggest it, but the ornithologist is yet to be born who can point out the chosen bird or any of his lieutenants. If not guided by some one or more of their numbers, then there would appear to be a phase of animal intelligence unlike anything human. Certainly a thousand men, or half that number, could not move together without clash- ing, except they be controlled by acknowledged leaders. What I hoped for was to witness an upward spiral flight of the principal flock. This is a rare occurrence, I judge, and does not appear to have Intimations. 35 been commented upon. Imagine a gigantic screw, some five hundred feet in length and of propor- tionate diameter, standing on its head, and half a thousand blackbirds, in a long and narrow band, starting from the ground and following the thread of the screw. Occasionally a line of dense white smoke will describe much the same figure. When the maximum height is reached a circular course is followed until the birds are all upon the same plane, when, as a huge black blanket, the flock returns to the ground. Whatever may be said of blackbirds now, the north-bound geese have their leaders, and if their sonorous honking reaches our ears, one does not think of the bitterness of wild March mornings. This is one of those thoroughly thrilling sounds that quickens the pulse and leads us a long way towards realizing what the world about us really means. When the river was wild and wild men only dwelt about it, this call of the geese was a familiar sound, and one that makes me envious of early colonial days. Think of it ! s-Nils Gustafson, a Swede, above ninety years of age, assured Peter Kalm, in 1748, that he had killed twenty- three 36 In Touch with Nature. ducks at a shot ; but now (in 1748) you were forced to ramble about all day and perhaps not see but three or four. It is marvellous that a duck ever appears on the Delaware now, and yet there are often very many to be seen, and he who is awake early or out late can hear the over-flying geese, and possibly see them, when fog-bound on the river. Wildness is not yet quite an unknown element, even though man, for two centuries, has been trying to rub it out. Much is missed by those who value a bird merely because of its fine song or bright feathers. Here, in the valley of the Delaware, such birds are in the minority; but the great host of songless and plainly-dressed birds have compensating merits. Many a bird is cunning to a degree, and needs but to be watched a little closely to be ap- preciated for its winsome ways. There is now a merry flock of tree-sparrows in the cedars that do little but chatter in matters vocal, and offer only a color-study of blended browns and black ; but see these birds when at leisure, playing bo-peep in the dead grasses on the meadow ; see them flutter and scold the venturesome meadow-mice as they dart Intimations. 37 along their run-ways, and a whole chapter of de- lightful bird-life is opened up to you. The nut- hatch can only fret and scold, so it would seem ; but when it ventures to peep fnto the nest of a gray squirrel, and darts back, startled by the wide- awake occupant, it can chatter so glibly that we know it has something like a sense of humor. Watch, too, the wondering kinglets that are half frightened when the white-footed mouse peeps from his bush-nest or threads his way daintily along the tangled maze of greenbrier. This dainty creature, the prettiest of all our mammals, is nocturnal in habit, yet not even the brightest sunshine blinds it, and when it does venture abroad in daylight there is apt to be great excite- ment among the gatherings of our smaller winter birds, and these little kinglets in particular, that love their sun-bath so dearly, are more than roused to energy by the animal's appearance. Their softly-uttered song for they sing only to themselves gives way to emphasis strongly sug- gestive of the little house-wren's well-known pro- fanity. Clearly, even in March, bright days may be 4 38 In Touch with Nature. over-full ; and yet often we fancy much is lacking. We continually make unjust demands. To-day the river did not look chilly and so repellent ; more than one water-plant was growing thriftily, and by the pebbly beach was a faint suspicion of the spice-wood's golden bloom ; but where were the frogs ? I listened in vain, and, at last, to make good my want, rattled the shaggy bark of an old oak with my cane, and fancied I heard the first frogs of the season. How true it is, the shortest journey a man can take is when in search of a fool ! Turning from the tree to the river, I saw my face reflected on its quiet surface. Whether we see many sights or few ; hear the rejoicings of every wild-wood bird, or but the song of a single warbler, if that winged cente- narian, with his scythe and hour-glass, old Father Time, would only take a rest such a day as this, the world would be the gainer. Still later : The intimations of February become substantial promises long before the close of March, but how human are they! The chances are good that every promise will be broken. The big snow- Intimations. 39 storm of the season came last night, and, by the almanac, spring commences to-morrow. It will begin terribly handicapped ; but mankind seems more disturbed than the birds, for on the maples there are song-sparrows that sing their May-day melodies, and from the upper air comes the hope- ful whistle of the robin. This is well, so far as it goes ; but the snow is a set-back, do what we will. It is a contradiction ; a confusing of familiar things ; a condition that is repugnant, in spite of novelty, to dig your spring flowers from a snow- bank ; but this was the only way, on and after March 18. March skies, March atmosphere, midwinter earth : these the conditions now ; and no wonder that my companion asked, " What have you to say of intimations of spring to-day?" Everywhere endless acres of snow-clad fields, huge drifts by the river-shore, and, beyond, that glittering, steel- blue water that is far colder than any ice. I looked about for maple blossoms, but they were tightly closed and brown. The larch had hidden its promises of spring-tide, and there was nothing to be said. The world had rolled backward many a 40 In Touch with Nature. week and left its champion confounded. Not a syllable could be uttered in defence of such con- ditions. March may play fast and loose as it chooses, but a murrain seize its black art that can call midwinter back. Nevertheless, must the rambler sit down in despair because of all this ? We made for the river-shore in spite of the free scope of the cutting wind, for if life was astir at all it was likelier here than on the fields. It proved so. My companion's question, " What's that?" and my exclamation of "A seal!" were uttered at the same instant, and straightway the bad weather was forgiven and forgotten. To have this creature twice lift its head above the water and then disappear proved the " presto, change !" of the wonder-workers when I was young. I could have welcomed the north pole then and there. It is a matter of a single seal, and at long intervals now, thousands crowding every rock and raft of ice a few thousands of years ago. To-day, a civilized man gazing in wonder at a solitary creature, formerly here roamed savage men that largely fed upon their oily carcasses. Who can fathom the meaning of these changes of Intimations. 41 the centuries : these gains and losses of a half- score of millenniums ? Man mightier, wiser, hap- pier, it ,may be ; and yet the March winds stir the lingering trace of savagery in us all, and we are, for the moment, wild as the flashing waves that hurry by. What a change ! Now but a single seal ; but time was when not only seals, but the walrus, roamed the ancient river, and the masto- don and reindeer, moose and musk-ox, lingered upon its shores. The effect of sudden changes of the weather upon animal life is one of the few subjects that have not been written to death, possibly because they have not been closely studied ; and to add to the difficulty, these changes are often quite as sud- den and short-lived as the conditions that produced them. It would certainly seem so in the case of migratory birds, and more prominently so in that of occasional visitors. No one, I venture to assert, has been so fortunate as to see a snow-bunting, the northern white snow-finch, during the past winter; yet a whole host of them suddenly appeared at the close of the storm, and disap- peared quite as quickly as they came. Not once 4* 42 In Touch with Nature. this year have I seen a cross-bill when peering into the thick-set cedars or watching the myriads of small birds that frequent the pines ; yet a dead one was picked up in a lane near by. Where did they come from? Just beyond the outskirts of every region there are novelties that only the favored few who never rest from rambling occa- sionally see. How quickly the Canadian fauna can overlap its bounds and make, literally, a fly- ing visit to Carolinian territory and return is one of those features of bird-life not of importance in itself, but as certain to excite wonderment as its occurrence gives pleasure to those who wit- ness it. Why, then, complain at this return of winter ? It quickens the pulse, and that, too, of every bird that braves its rigors. This is a soothing thought. It is worth wading knee-deep through a snow- bank to hear the cardinal red-bird whistle. There is one now perched near the river-bank, and his clear notes float even across the wide waters, and that faint melody that the wind brings from the opposite shore is, I fancy, the answering call of another of his kind. Intimations. 43 Fill, then, the river valley with music, and what matters it if the fields are frozen, the trees droop with frqst, and the winds struggle to drown the exulting songs of wild life defiant ? A River View. WHERE the long reach of gravel and stranded rocks stay their shoreward progress, the ceaseless breaking of the wind-tossed waves is fitting music, while it is yet winter. Such sound was truly out of tune and harsh, for nature everywhere was rugged, and, by the river-shore, the plash of troubled water its only proper spokesman. It has 44 A River View. not been long since the stream was ice-bound ; when not the narrowest line of bright blue water glinted in the fitful sunlight of a half-cloudy day. The river then seemed dreaming of by-gone centuries, when the plaything of a glacier; but to-day all was glitter, or black as forbidding night, save where the short-lived waves with downy crests stood a brief moment in the golden sunshine, waves of marvellous beauty that brightened the bleak world about them, albeit dying at their birth. It is never well to be influenced by such a thought as that the world was made for man, an idea that forges to the front when Nature appears to seek you out and, thrusting aside the doors of her cabinet, gives generous opportunity to view her gems. Here, where the sloping bank shuts out the chill west wind and a smooth niche in a convenient bowlder proved fitted to my reclining person, the suggestion naturally welled to the surface that something beyond mere chance added the noble outlook. But glacial floods and time's succeeding touch considered only their own whims, and it is well to rest content with the bare fact : it 46 In Touch with Nature. so happened we rambled this far, and, resting, voted time and place a full realization of a lazy man's outing. Let the field and forest behind us entertain those who remained at home ; the river alone concerns us. It is not a forced expression to say that the wind plays with the water. How else adequately describe the changeful surface? A mile away, this is as a mirror breathed upon ; while nearer, the rippled flow is dark, a broken band of polished purple steel, or glittering and bright, as shimmer- ing silver. Nowhere is there fixity of light and shade. Not an instant but there is a change of place : the blue-black waters now here, now there ; the rippled silver gone ere you can trace it. Let the wind play what pranks it may, the ever-shift- ing scene is not perplexing ; there is enough de- liberation to give us chance to follow; and then there is that delightful uncertainty which twits us, and we fall to guessing what the next freak will be. It is reasonable to ask if water-birds realize these constant variations of light-effects upon the surface of a broad stream. They are comparatively safe A River View. 47 at such a time, as one wary wild duck proved to be to-day. It was a brightly-plumaged bird, with a great preponderance of white, set off with black upon the wings, neck, head, and shoulders ; a trim bird, at home alike in the air or on the water ; one that has no dread of distance ; here to-day, in a foreign land to-morrow. Although gracefully floating near by, this pretty duck often seemed quite in mid-stream, and con- stantly disappeared, yet without diving. Now flashing into view upon the black water, now standing out in ebon contrast to the white, silvery glitter of a wide waste of water, it never quite took proper shape, but ever left us with a linger- ing doubt as to its identity. Had not happy chance rewarded our patience, it would still be a matter of uncertainty ; but no, it was truly a wild duck, and not a fancy. But the point lies here : Might there not have been at least a companion, if, indeed, not many ? Because space only con- fronts you, count not the landscape empty. Un- seen activities are real. A counter-blast, it may be, checked the breeze, and the stilled water gave up its secret. Such a chance one in ten thou- 48 In Touch with Nature. sand clothed in flesh, a trembling speck on the troubled waters ; be not over-sure you are alone, even though the coast is very clear. Later, the puff! puff! of a steamboat was heard, and, as the unsightly craft rounded a wooded point, my lone duck was alive to man's proximity at once, and how it had multiplied ! A hundred, and not one, rose in the clear air, moved by a common impulse, and, fringing the low line of snowy clouds that marked the horizon, sped northward. Think of it ! here in the valley of the Delaware to-day ; to- morrow, finding shelter in the rock-bound coves of the New England coast, and at home every- where. Were the clouds envious? Rolling in huge masses from the grim, gray east, they filled and chilled the valley at a stroke. How quickly the river responded ! There was left but the stern reality of flowing water. If, before, the waves laughed and were boisterous when they kissed the shore, they sobbed now. Inanimate, of course, but happily we need not hold it so ; and cannot, indeed, when a mere cloud so strangely checks its merriment. This same river, that laughed and A River View. 49 frowned at storm and tempest before man's crea- tion, now seemed cowardly to slink away, as though rebuked and ashamed. The final change from life to death was typified. However it may be with the more philosophical rambler, the lazy man, when on his outing, has no desire to encounter gloom. The restful couch that the chance bowlder has proved for so long began to grow irksome ; the sloping bank sank to the level of the fields ; the chill west wind came on apace; there was no longer a sprightly river view, but a mere view of a languid river. Less and less the niched bowlder is a bed of down, and as we shift our aching bones, hoping against hope that the waters will again grow glad, a mist slowly arises to meet the overhanging cloud. At first in curling lines, as though the Indians' camp-fires were not yet quenched; and then with a filmy shroud, enwrapping river, valley, and the distant hills beyond. Why tarry ? There is no river- view in the outlook now. The muffled murmur of the changing tide alone assures us that the earth itself has not passed away and left us perched upon a rock in chaos. But is chaos c d 5 50 In Touch with Nature. worth acquaintance? That depends. It has never yet had firm hold here ; why now ? The day is not yet done, and there are to-morrows yet to be. If the river is shut out in spite, let us out- sit the imp that mocks us. Even now, while our thoughts are still with what has been, there is a rift in the clouds ; the mist rolls slowly back from whence it came. A ripple of golden light ven- tures along the shore, a mighty flood of mellow sunshine fills the valley. There is not a wave but leaps to catch the life-giving glow, as though it would hold it henceforth forever. Why despair ? That which has so long abided shall not fail us ; the river was a living friend when we came in the morning, and now, in the evening, greets us as heartily. Well may it glow with all its old-time ardor, for the light of every trembling star above it is gathered to its bosom. So ended our outing by the river. I say " our," for I had a companion, as I supposed ; but for hours he has been quite forgotten, and long ago he left me. In the Serpents' Path. No month offers less than does March to attract the rambler, and for that reason it is, perhaps, the best month to be out of doors. To see little, and that thoroughly, leaves a more lasting impression than a bewildering multitude of Nature's riches. Not long since I turned from a wide expanse of wind-tossed waters to an inviting cove, and then, letting the boat drift where it might, I peered into the depths of a forest that reached to the water's edge. One tall, towering pine, blasted by the storms, pierced the upper air, and dark, tapering cedars on either side shut from view the neighbor- ing hills ; while beneath the lesser growth of birches, rhododendron, and tangled shrubs hid the huge rocks among which they grew. The outlook was grand but gloomy. I was both attracted and repelled. Even the shallow waters were black, lifeless, and unfathomable. No rambler, eager for Nature at her best, could have asked for 52 In Touch with Nature. more, and yet my enthusiasm was not aroused. The winds that rioted on the lake dared not ven- ture here. " There was no motion in the dumb, dead air Not any song of bird or sound of rill ; Gross darkness of the inner sepulchre Is not so deadly still As that wide forest ;" where In the Serpents' Path. 53 " Over all there hung a cloud of fear, A sense of mystery the spirit daunted ; Which said, as plain as whisper in the ear, v The place is haunted." Then, as the sun dashed through a fleecy cloud, the spell was broken. A sluggish snake rolled from a jutting rock, and following the trail of that serpent came the weird glory of a bright March day. Guiding my boat to the rocky shore, I drew it from the water, and ventured to explore the dark, dank wood before me. Between loose rocks that threatened to topple over as I passed, I threaded " the sombre boscage," not wholly at ease, and longing for other evidence of life ; for, although death has claimed the lion's share of my treasure, I still love the living world. Happily, there was soon a rustling of dead leaves near by, and then a strange, indefinite shape approached. The path was too narrow for me to step aside, and I had neither time nor room to turn back and reach my boat. Nearer it came, hugging the stony path, a writhing, squirming, tangled knot of serpents, and I must prove the barrier to its progress. As well 54 In Touch with Nature. be a fool outright as cursed with a tardy wit. Had every snake been venomous, I should have been safe only by standing immovably, but per- sonal safety crowded all saner thought, and I clutched and scrambled vainly against the wall- like rocks. Of course in vain, and then the snakes were upon me. It was a strange sight. Ankle- deep in garter-snakes ! Let the timid folk think of it. Only to a slight extent did I stay their progress, and before all had passed I sat down and gathered as many as I could hold. They were very cold, sluggish, and many, I think, were blind. The languid darting of their forked tongues was very funny ; as if they felt compelled to keep up the custom, but were terribly bored by it. How often have I known human tongues to wag in just that way ! For an hour I toyed with a score of pretty snakes, but they could neither be teased nor Warmed to activity. I despaired of learning any- thing from them, until the thought came to me as to their destination, and why they should seek the icy waters of the lake. Tangles of snakes, in the meadows at home, are not common, although, like In the Serpents* Path. 55 many another feature of the fauna of that spot, they can generally be found, when earnestly looked for. There were nothing but crayfish in a meadow- brook when a friend came for the single purpose of studying them ; and how abundant were the rare Muhlenberg turtles when the herpetologist happened along ! The rambler, on the other hand, indulges in hap-hazard observation, and unavoida- bly so. To be constantly on the alert for certain forms of life is to become a specialist, and this means work, that most dreaded of all combina- tions of the alphabet. But the snakes at home : they wait until April sunshine warms them into activity, and away they go until the first ditch is reached, when each individual bids his fellows farewell ; but here, in a mountain-lake, it all seemed different. It is March, and as wintry on the hill-tops as a month ago, and these snakes are taking a brief outing, or some hidden cause has sent them, out of season. This, too, is an occurrence I have known. Huge water-snakes occasionally appear in the fields during warm days in February, coiled into circular mats, and too lazy to uncoil when picked up. Where they 56 In Touch with Nature. come from is a mystery, unless they have been sleeping in some spring- hole near by. Still retaining a half-dozen large specimens, I went to the water, but the snakes had not plunged in. Instead, they were basking on the sunny rock. Returning to the spot where I met them, I liber- ated my pets, but they had lost all recollection of their original intention, and crawled off in any and every direction. I leave to others to determine how a vast number of snakes, coiled in some hidden, dark cave among heaped-up rocks, could know that the sun was shining brightly; that the warmth of spring bathed the lake shore ; that the world was ready for their active lives. And again, why do they so closely cling to each other until every doubt has disappeared ? We see a single snake in summer, and know it only as a timid creat- ure, or one that vainly hopes to turn you from its path by idle threats ; but, looking longer, if an un- just repugnance can be overcome, we will find there is more credit due a snake than it usually receives. It has a hard time of it at best, and success is proportionate to its cunning in the ever-present struggle for existence. And what is cunning ? In the Serpents' Path. 57 Possibly everybody knows and all are familiar with basking snakes, and have traced their going and coming for years; but where is all this re- corded ? A species-monger, the value of whose writings consists in his wealth of quotations, com- plains that what any tyro knows has too often been proclaimed as a discovery. This is false, to be sure, but is notwithstanding a suggestive state- ment; for what of the world of not even tyros, the thousands without an inkling of zoologic lore ? They constitute a considerable proportion of the civilized world, savages, I take it, are necessarily naturalists, in the happier sense of that term, and to say to them that all birds cannot fly, and that one kind of fish can climb a tree, is to announce a novel fact, if not to proclaim a discovery. But to come back to the subject of an animal's habits : there is probably not a creature, whether furred, feathered, or scaled, that does not contradict you sooner or later. The farmer, fisherman, or trapper is the man to whom we had better go for informa- tion on special points. Their facts are more readily separated from a fancy than the professional's from a theory. These men will stagger you with the list 58 In Touch with Nature. of surprises that have been theirs. Perhaps fish are so far methodical that they may be unmis- takably reported. Sunfish always make nests in the sand, to the best of my knowledge ; but do not be over-confident; next summer you may find a pair of them doing otherwise. This was written in 1889, and now the novelty is at hand: a pair of sunfish took up their quarters in an old shoe, and kept their offspring in it until August. This was not a forced matter, but voluntary choice. There was a half-acre of available nesting-ground on both sides of them, and nothing to explain their decision, unless they foresaw its security against spawn-eating and fry-eating fishes. The fish stories hardest to believe are the true ones. My old grandmother, that knew the birds in her garden for fifty years, I hold a better authority than the collector, however professionally he col- lects ; yet my grandmother did not know that a cat-bird was a thrush. But she knew the birds of the garden as so many individuals, and real- ized what wealth of common sense was squeezed into their little brains. Poor snakes, you have been quite forgotten ; but In the Serpents' Path. 59 here is to your health and headway ! May the day of many serpents soon return. Every one knows a^ snake, but how few know anything about them ! Generally, too, they care less, and think only of the advisability of bringing down a crush- ing heel. It is to be hoped that this villainous practice of teaching children to dread snakes will end some day. It is not an inborn dread, for I have given children snakes to play with, time without number, and have never found them otherwise than amused. It is only after silly stories are told them that the fear becomes estab- lished. It is funny to think that there are school- teachers who shudder over a dead snake and forbid the scholars bringing living ones to the class-room. There is no herpetology to be taught outside of the text-books, and the fewer illustra- tions the better. The mowing- meadows at home were the snakes' paradise ; and long before the introduction of the mowing-machine what wonderful black-snakes were to be encountered ! They were bold enough, so the mowers averred, to attack you, but none ever did. The champion mower of his day, who 60 In Touch with Nature. always cut the grass in the devil's kitchen, as one sunny nook was known, had no end of adventures there with snakes. His strangest tale was not far from the truth, for, as my grandfather said, they were not all " strictly correct." Hercules started to mow the corner, but the snakes rebelled. A dozen, he claimed, stood upon their tail-tips and defied him. He was about to drop his scythe and run, when the idea of being twitted as a coward held him back, and he made a bold strike forward, as if there was nothing there but waving grass. The largest snake was ready for this movement and dashed at the scythe, swallowing the blade and six inches of the sneed. So Hercules said when, weak with terror, he reached the house. My grandfather found that he had struck the snake in the mouth and cut the body so that it covered the end of the blade. This is about the proportion of fact and fiction in modern snake stories. That was fifty years ago, and now the devil's kitchen has to content itself with little garter-snakes. The world grows better, backward, in some respects. Leaving the shores, with all their wildness and In the Serpents' Path. 61 wonders, I returned to the boat, picking my way among the basking snakes that even now scarce deigned,. to look at me ; and as I faced the rising wind that more than ruffled the wide reach of waters, I thought of my recent adventure, and wondered, and still wonder, if the wind, turning from its path and sweeping that sunny ledge of rocks, drove again to their home in the forest that writhing, squirming, crawling tangle of pretty snakes. A Victim of Thoreau. VvHO ventures to say that length of years bringeth wisdom ? And yet who has ever met an octogenarian whom he did not look upon as wise ? One hears so much about gaining wisdom through experience that it seems impossible not to hold him as very knowing who has reached fourscore years. It is very proper to look up to our elders, but it does not follow that the only course to pur- sue is that pointed out by them. May it not seem ungracious to say so, but there are many aged men living who cannot be accounted wise. Even in those things pertaining peculiarly to their own sphere they are lacking. I met a curious char- acter lately: an old man who professed to be a victim of Thoreau. The day was fitting for such a meeting. Al- though in March, there was a wealth of summer 62 A Victim of Thoreau. 63 1 - - sunshine, an abundance of green grass, of singing birds, of piping frogs, and, here and there, scat- tered (Jandelions and violets. The day teemed with life, and yet mankind was not astir. No farmer was ploughing, and the highway was de- serted. This added zest to my stroll, for such solitude gives one the feeling of a world to him- self. I walked a mile or more alone, and then, 64 In Touch with Nature. . where the road turned that a brook and noble elm might remain as nature placed them, I met an old man. He was sitting at the foot of the tree and gazing steadily at the rippling waters before him. It was a pretty picture, and I stopped to study it. Then, with a woman's curiosity, I ventured to speak. To have merely said " good-morning" and passed on would not have sufficed. Strangely enough, I was disposed to talk. Although the question was absurd, " Fishing ?" I asked. " No ; frogging, after a fashion," he replied, with an assuring smile. Then I drew nearer, and, resting against the tree, waited for an explanation of his ambiguous remark. " I have been sitting here for hours watching that frog," and he pointed to one squatted upon a stone immediately before him. "It takes the world easy, it seems to me, and, as this same world provides its wants, why should not I do the same, sit still and let the world supply me ?" I thought I had met with some wanderer from the poor-house, or the grandfather of some one of my neighbors ; but instead, here was a new phase of humanity, a mild type of philosophical tramp. A Victim of Thoreau. 65 " Do you live near by ?" I asked, ignoring his remarks. " My^home, if you can call it so, is the range of my rambling; but why are you curious about me ? Such a corner as this ought to be no man's land, except his who rests for a time here, on his way to nowhere." " I'm sure I have no claim to your cozy seat, and am only too glad to have met you. You are a stranger about here, I take it?" I remarked, without any definite reason for speaking at all. " Yes, I am," and, turning towards me, he said, in most inviting tones, " and yet not altogether. I was here sixty years ago, and sat under this same tree, and again thirty-five years ago, when I read a book that turned my head, and I've been won- dering where the mistake was ever since." I was thoroughly interested in the old man now, and could scarcely wait until he had finished speaking to ask what book had so marred his fortunes. " Thoreau's ' Walden,' " he replied ; " there are pages of it I can repeat, and often do so, wonder- ing all the time where's the hitch in his phi- e 6* 66 In Touch with Nature. losophy. Did you ever read the book ?" he asked, abruptly, eying me closely as he put the ques- tion. " I have, several times," I replied. " And what do you think of it ?" he asked. "All that I understand I like extremely; the rest I let go unheeded," I told him. " It's all easy enough to understand ; but what puzzles me is why his philosophy won't work. I have been trying it, and the contemplation and study of nature, and all that, came easy enough, but I could not get bread from my bean- field." "Did you plant one?" I asked. " No ; but I helped myself to others' beans, here a little and there a little; but never in a whole neighborhood could I gather enough to trade for bread enough." " Was that Thoreau's plan ?" I asked. " Not exactly ; but mine had the advantage of allowing more time for study and contemplation. Still, it didn't work. His philosophy is at fault, and mine, which is an improvement, has never worked ; and yet why I do not see ;" and here the A Victim of Thoreau. 67 old man thrust his cane at the frog before him, sending it spinning into the brook. " May I ask who you are and where you come from ?" I asked, with some impatience, for the old fellow thoroughly puzzled me. " Not who I am," he replied, " nor where from ; but I will venture this far with you, stranger, to tell you how I live. Nine months in the year I'm like the frog I stirred up just now. I squat where it suits me, and stick until some fellow-creature comes along with a cane and sends me afloat to squat on the nearest flat stone I come to. There's that frog, a yard or two farther down the brook, and there he'll stick until forced to get up, I sup- pose ; and so it's been with me. I've never found a seat that the world did not force me to quit ; and I've never been able to see why I am not one of the world as well as the crowd that jos- tles me." " How do you expect to get food and clothing if you sit still all day ?'' " I can get them as easily as did the savages from whom we all came ; but there, too, at every turn I'm headed off. Some one claims the wild 68 In Touch with Nature. berries I gather, as if God labelled them, ' These berries grew for John,' and so James must not touch them, not even if John is disposed to let them rot. And if I make cloth out of birch-bark and am suited, why not ? But if I do, I am landed in the mad-house." " I cannot see why you blame your ill luck on Thoreau ; the fact is, you've been too lazy to work." " You simply talk like all the rest," he replied, with no trace of ill humor. " I have had only myself to consult, and tried the Walden plan, with improvements, and the result was, as you see, a failure. I was told I must do as the world was doing ; must drift with the human tide or strand and rot. The world was right, and yet is not right. Should there not be a little more personal liberty? Why cannot a man break away from this tyranny of established custom ? Of course, it is useless to try ; but then comes up the old ques- tion, Where's the hitch in independent philosophy, as I call it?" " It lies in the fact, perhaps, that man is a social and gregarious animal, and in communities the A Victim of Thoreau. 69 good of all must be considered as well as the comfort of one's self. Life is a game of give and take. Qive your energy to the community, and take what pay you can." " And if the world, young man," he remarked, quietly, as he stood up, " has elbow-room to spare, as it has, for would-be hermits and contemplative ramblers, why should they be molested ? I tried Thoreau's plan, as I understood it, and liked it ; but every man I meet has some harsh criticism. And one thing more before I go ; here's my sum- ming up of the whole matter: there's a screw loose somewhere in the world's ways when a man without detriment to his fellows cannot do as he pleases. If I prefer the sky to any other roof, I am held a nuisance. Why is it ?" And the old man, slinging a small bundle over his shoulder, walked down the road, leaving me to wonder who he was. Truly there is an endless series of strange human freaks, yet none so odd, in my experience, as this self-styled victim of Tho- reau. Who would not walk in the country to see such strange men ? Animals as Barometers. -AjLIKE when we listen to our unlettered neigh- bors, or study the collected folk-lore of any people, it will be seen that animals, both wild and domes- ticated, enter largely into every community's weather-wisdom ; nor can we wonder, considering how every creature we meet, whether in the woods or open fields, is influenced by the condition of the weather prevailing at the time. There is, as many know, a vast difference between a bird's ac- tions, for instance, during a bright May morning and perhaps the next day, when a chilly north- east storm prevails. Here, however, we have a change in the bird, subsequent to an altered con- dition of the weather, which is quite natural and of little significance, and so our interest centres in the suggestion that centuries ago arose in the minds of men, Are the animals about us, of 70 Animals as Barometers. 71 whatever grade in the zoological scale, weather- prophets ? Do they realize the coming of a storm so far in_ advance of its actual appearance that, if man could correctly interpret the animal's acts, the creature would be to him a reliable barometer ? Certainly, for a long time man has proceeded upon this assumption, and not until the rationality of so doing has been questioned, in the light of bio- logical science, has it occurred to any one that these same animals were a poor dependence. I have in times past maintained that no animal could be held of barometric value. Possibly this was going too far, but my later studies have not led me to a change of base. An aside here, not to be spoken in a stage- whisper. I have touched upon this subject more than once before, but it bears repeating. It needs a deal of hammering to beat the truth into half the heads you meet. One class, I hold, merit ignoring : those apes that ask a question of a naturalist, and then, assuming an air of wisdom, toss their heads and remark, " Oh, I cannot think so." Of course they cannot. Born without thinking power, and yet refuse to be led ; perhaps 72 In Touch with Nature. they deserve pity. The trouble is, such folk are not to be recognized at first sight; but once known, let them be shunned as a pestilence. I am at outs with people whom I have sworn at, but my happiness is not curtailed. As years roll by you free yourself of the dross, and the pure gold of humanity makes life worth living, though you have nothing else than their friendship to call your own. To return: there are, it would seem, two dis- tinct and not necessarily connected propositions to be considered. First. Do the lower animals recognize, sooner than does man, coming weather changes ? Second. How far are we able to inter- pret a lower animal's acts ? Let us consider these questions separately. If animals possessed, as is often claimed, mete- orological foreknowledge, then it should appear that little suffering and less loss of life should result from sudden changes. But does not even an ordinary thunder-gust drown creeping creatures, maim vigorous birds, and flood the snug galleries of burrowing mammals ? It needs but a short ramble in the woods or fields, after such a summer Animals as Barometers. 73 shower, to see how painfully destructive are mod- erate wind and rain when they rush across the country^hand-in-hand. There is no more touch- ing sight in all nature than the lowly-murmured plaint of nesting-birds as they contemplate, after a shower, their ruined home and drowned fledg- lings. It is not a common occurrence, it is true, but frequent enough to make it an open question whether or not diabolism, in this world, has the upper hand. To credit a bird with weather- wisdom, and yet with no power to guard against probable danger, is to assume that it leads the ter- rible life of one in constant fear, a mental condi- tion the bird's daily life flatly contradicts. I lay stress upon birds rather than mammals, because of the two classes of animals the former are much more at the mercy of storms or even vicissitudes of temperature. Of the two, wet feathers are likely to lead to more serious consequences than wet fur. Again, of the two groups, mammals and birds, that have been exposed to persecution by man for centuries, the birds have acquired greater cunning, and we naturally look to them for the more marked evidences of intelligence; and, D 7 74 In Touch with Nature. taking a comprehensive glance at bird-life, it is evident that, while they know, in a general way, what the meteorological conditions are to be, they have as yet failed to provide for the more pro- nounced features of our weather. The truth is, the one thought uppermost in their minds is that of a food-supply, and concerning all else they trust to luck, and, so trusting, are often victims of their helplessness. If, so long ago as the close of the glacial period, birds began to recognize the fore- runnings of a storm, then evolution, which has not yet failed the world, should have made them weather-prophets by this time ; but it has not. A good barometer gives us abundant warning of coming changes, but what the mercury recog- nizes is beyond man's ken. Never does the world look brighter than a few hours before some great change. The familiar but senseless term " weather- breeder," applied to an exceptionally clear day, is evidence of this, and certainly animal life has little thought for the future when the skies are without a cloud. Never are birds more merry, mammals more full of play ; yet the impending storm means mischief that to some extent might be averted Animals as Barometers. 75 had these happy creatures but an inkling of what was coming. Were animals in any sense weather-wise, there would be unmistakable evidences of anticipatory preparation ; and it is unquestionable that vast numbers of animals are destroyed by storms which might easily have saved themselves by a little foreknowledge. Thus, the feathers of birds often become so soaked as to render flight im- practicable, and so the birds fall victims to car- nivorous mammals. My attention was called to this fact during the past autumn, when, after a sudden dash of rain, I found a number of warblers that were too wet to fly. Their fluttering did not prevent my catching one, and directly after I saw a redstart in the clutches of a red squirrel. I could not see the captor and captive as plainly as I wished, but still sufficiently distinctly to recog- nize both the mammal and the bird. John Burroughs thinks I made a hasty inference in the matter of rain-soaked warblers. He says, " There is no more danger of a well bird being disabled by a storm of rain than there is of a squirrel being disabled. The robin will some- j6 In Touch with Nature. times get slightly bedraggled, especially about the tail, during a prolonged rain, but never enough to seriously impair its power of flight. Indeed, it is always a surprise to one to see how dry and clean the birds keep during long storms. The swallows will keep on the wing during quite a rain, with plumage apparently as untouched as if they steered between the drops. Both birds and ani- mals seem to wear some charm against wet. I once saw a little meadow-mouse swimming across a lake in the woods. I rowed out and gave him a lift over in my boat, which service, however, he did not need. He was as dry as I was, except upon his extremities." My friend is all at sea. It was not a matter where any inference could be drawn. The birds were soaked, and that is all there is of it. The hasty inference is to suppose feathers cannot be wetted. I have had the matter in mind all sum- mer, and have seen the same condition due to another cause. Time and again I have studied bathing birds, and put them to their wit's ends too, as they emerged from their baths. Every time I drift by the pebbly shore of the river, if it Animals as Barometers. 77 be not too late in the day, I see many birds sport- ing in knee-deep water. They dip and splash and pirouette in the daintiest fashion, and this for no other reason than to get wet. As a proof of it, I have startled them when in the water, and their efforts to fly were always painful and sometimes unsuccessful. Again, watching them closely, I found that, on leaving the water, they most vigor- ously shook themselves, but only after preening their wings was the normal flight-power restored. A most favorable opportunity to study a bathing bird occurred recently. In the yard is a half- barrel, in which is growing a water-lily, the leaves of which nearly cover the upper surface. A red- eyed vireo, that whistles twelve hours a day in the village street for many days, came here to bathe about noon. The water wet its feathers, I am sure. It evidently anticipated this, and seemed prepared for the temporary disablement. It was well aware of being at a disadvantage when wet, and its half-scared chirp, as it beat its way to a low perch, was extremely amusing. This bird more than once dived rather than plunged into the water. The movement was full of grace, the 7* 78 In Touch with Nature. head and shoulders of the bird going quite be- neath the surface, but the tail appeared then and at other times to be dry, and invariably was spread slightly when the bird took an upward flight. I had others to watch the bird that my own conclusions might be disputed or verified, but all agreed that bathing for a short time actually wet the feathers, curtailed flight power, and from two to five minutes at least jeopardized the bird's life to a certain extent. When it is raining, a bird can readily fly any distance and yet keep dry, if it faces the wind, but not otherwise. The pelting rain-drops, striking the bird's feathers the " right way," will roll off as the water rushes over the shingles of a roof. But let us consider a fitful east wind, a driving rain, and birds in a wood. Here there is no pos- sibility of always facing the wind, and the be- wildered birds are subjected to not only the rude buffeting of contrary winds, but the ruffling of their feathers coincident with a dash of rain. This it is that disables the weak-winged warblers : their feathers are wet, and they can scarcely fly. It seems never to have occurred to those people Animals as Barometers. 79 of by-gone years who attributed weather-wisdom to animals that possibly the peculiar act of a mammal or bird, or insect even, and the quickly- following change of weather were mere coinci- dences ; and this is what they are in almost every instance. It matters little what "saying" you select, it needs but a six weeks' drought to demon- strate that rain does not follow any particular action of an animal ; and, strangely enough, there appear to be no " sayings" referring to these pro- tracted spells of rainless weather. It is a logical in- ference, were weather-wisdom reliable, that animal life during a drought should be peculiarly monot- onous and undemonstrative, but this is not true. A drought, however, will cause a change of base, and this is a matter the out-door naturalist should never overlook ; for the habits of an ani- mal will not remain essentially the one thing wherever they are. Birds generally love the water. The chicken that delights in a dust-bath walks with evident satisfaction to the pool that it may drink, and in times of a drought the upland fields will be practically deserted and the low meadows overcrowded. At such places, and at 8o In Touch with Nature. such a time, I have heard strange concerts. The spotted sand-pipers and marsh-wrens had not the watery world to themselves, and the birds of the field, in their novel surroundings, were never seemingly out of place. I once saw a humming- bird perched upon a bending spray of wild rice with only a wide waste of waters about it, but it was quite at home ; and the house-wrens, that should be nowhere but in an old-time garden, thread the mazes of uprooted trees along the river as if they had never known another and far different home. We think of crows and black- birds as tenants in common with the farmer, of the cultivated fields, but the former is a devoted beach-rover, and the blackbirds dip down to the water and snatch up floating tidbits so gracefully that we may call them inland gulls. All this reminds me of an instance of natural history gone mad, but really not more absurd than the average chatter about weather- changes. An old fisherman remarked to me, " It is not so that fish bite better when it rains. They seem to me to go in out of the wet, just as we do, when a shower comes up." A Recent Ramble. 1 N April, as the world grows green apace, the disposition to ramble becomes daily more pro- nounced, and a fitting aim is to browse among bright meadows, culling here and there a thought- quickening blossom, and at times chancing sud- denly upon a startling novelty that spurs our flagging fancy. Turning my back upon the town to-day, the river literally flashed into view and, imperiously demanding undivided attention, led me a willing captive. There is no feeling of self- debasement in being thus held helpless by a great natural force. If a river is not so powerful, as a whole, as mankind, it is none the less a command- ing feature of the world at large, and worthy of high rank in leadership. Though it may speak in a foreign tongue, its orders are not to be mis- understood, and obedience thereto is ever well / 81 82 In Touch with Nature. rewarded. In such a frame, drifting in my little boat, the river toyed with me, as it did with the little sand-pipers that played bo-peep with the waves. What marvellous variety crowds the little beach ! Where I stranded, upon a long and narrow island, there was gold in abundance ; yet gold that passes current only among nature's lovers. It was only the clustered bloom of caltha and the gilded spikes of orontium, but what did this matter ? A coin would have been lost to view here and exchangeable for nothing. When, in 1684, one William Watson, yeoman, of Nottinghamshire, England, ventured up the river in search of a home, he landed not far away and left recorded : " Here is not only a pleasant spot for a home, where toil will be rewarded, but a goodly spot wherein to rest." It is true, he might have had in mind a proper place in which to be buried, as under some one of the old oaks that overshadowed the river's winding shores, but I do not believe it. Give him credit for thinking of the closing hours of such April days as these, when the evening hymn of the thrush and plaint of drowsy finches should prove restful as sleep ; A Recent Ramble. 83 at least it is a more pleasing fancy to think so. And now it would be charming to know if there is left Na single feature of the river upon which his eyes rested. It is scarcely probable ; but, in the thankful spirit that moved Thoreau to be glad that man could not cut down the clouds, I am grateful that the same river gladdens the land- scape in these later days. Wheresoever we wander on land, nature, as the Indian knew it, must be sought after ; here, on the river, we have the same sky above and waters be- neath us. The bateau has replaced the canoe, but this is not a disturbing fact, and, whether we peer into the waves or gaze upward at the fleecy clouds, we have nature pure and undefiled. And, better, many a sweet sound that floats from the distant shores is the same that held old William Watson when on his homestead quest, and charmed, I hope, even the stolid Indian when on mischief bent. Warblers throng the willows ; tee- tering sand-pipers call to their mates afar off; the thrush ^and blackbird whistle in wild glee; the weird cry of the unseen spirit duck trembles in the breeze; the air is filled with music. 84 In Touch with Nature. Before a day's outing has well advanced, nature, as a whole, proves bewildering. It cannot be long continued in its entirety without fatigue, and the mind soon sinks to the level of specific observation. It is first a matter of choice, and then follows the exquisite pleasure of deciphering the purport of a single object. It was by mere chance, but, when again afloat, a spotted sand-piper passed very near and turned to look at me as it crossed the boat's bow. I caught the gay creature's bright and beady eye, and nodded in friendly recognition. I followed its course until lost in the glitter of dis- tant ripples, and gave thought then only to these familiar birds as seen to-day and in years gone by. They are here now ahead of time. Ten days of summer weather and a waxing moon have wooed them northward, and, while May is almost a week off, they are hunting in their old-time haunts and threading the green pastures where they nested a year ago. It is strange that this bird is so little appreciated. There are even human fiends who eat them. Because they are not noisy like robins, or do not chatter and scold like Jenny Wren, the world gives them the go-by. A Recent Ramble. 85 Hearing these sand-pipers everywhere along shore, I landed by a huge uprooted tree, and watched them as they came and went. How aptly they have caught the motion of the rippling water, and never venture more than to wet their feet ! Their teetering motion is clearly protective here, where the pebbles are large and nowhere is the sand free from rubbish. Scan the shore as closely as one may, these birds are part and parcel of the little waves, and only at long intervals stand out in bold relief; appearing so suddenly that only emergence from the water seemed pos- sible, as spring-tide swallows were supposed to do in olden time, a belief, by the bye, not yet extinct. It needs but a few minutes for sand-pipers to gain confidence, and soon they came within a few feet of the boat. Their eyes had all the merry glitter of the sunlit river. If they do not laugh, these birds do sing, for their clear voices are melo- dious by merit of the happiness that prompts each utterance. There was not to-day, and never is, a trace of ill humor about them, and they bow and bob even more when two or three are gathered 8 86 In Touch with Nature. together than when alone. Neither wind nor wave troubles them, their slender, sword-like wings cutting the thin air and bearing them to distant shores without a trace of languor. I have never seen them wearied or morose, as many a land-bird is apt to be. They touch the smooth sand so lightly as to leave scarcely a footprint, or perch upon a pebble so daintily that not thistle-down is readier to respond to the passing breeze than they to follow the whim that moves them. And, withal, they sing ; a song of but two notes, it is true, but who that has heard it above the plash of waves, the sullen murmur of the pines, and the sighing of the gathering storm in the lofty tree- tops, but longs to hear it again, a voice of sweet content and child-like confidence ? Unlike the great majority of the family of wading birds, to which it belongs, the spotted sand-piper is equally at home in the uplands, where the most commonplace of ponds and little way-side pools content it; and even by these its pretty nest is often placed. This, to be sure, is but a shallow depression in sandy ground, with scarcely enough grass to line it thoroughly; still, it is A Recent Ramble. 87 pretty, for the creamy eggs, with purple-brown blotches, stand out in bold relief, and are sure to attract attention, whether found by accident or as the result of nest-hunting. But all this pales to nothing in comparison to the newly-hatched young. These are the funniest little fellows extant. Not ludicrous because awkward, which is true of most young birds, but because of knowingness. They are quicker-witted than young quails, and ready to meet emergencies when scarcely more than a day old. I have knowledge of one cunning youngster that ran from tangled grass, as if fearing it might be trodden upon, into the water, and, using its mites of wings to guide it, swam for per- haps two yards, and then held on to the weeds with its feet. It was taken out by my informant's hand, after a submergence of several seconds, and came to the surface dry as a powder-horn. It would be well to know how often these birds take refuge from pursuing foes in this manner, and how long they can remain beneath the surface. Be it for a few seconds or a few minutes, it is interesting as bearing upon the fact that the ouzel has acquired the habit of hunting over the beds of In Touch with Nature. brooks, and it has been held that such a habit must have been given when the bird was created, and not that either bird or habit could have gradually come upon the scene. The little sand- pipers are a step in that direction, and he who objects to evolution now butts against a stone wall. The while I have been wandering in mind, my body has travelled half a mile up stream. The tide, rising, lifted the boat and bore it away while my thoughts lingered on the shore among the sand-pipers, or flitted to other scenes and other days. There are now no birds in view, but their voices from the far-off shore still bear me company, and, bending to the oar against wind and tide, as the last glimmer of the setting sun gilds the waves, I speed homeward to cut another notch in the tally-stick of my memory of days out of doors. May-Day out of Town. " Now hark ! how blithe the throstle sings ! He, too, is no mean preacher ; Come forth into the light of things, Let Nature be your teacher." MAY-DAY! It is a sluggish heart that does not give a livelier bound at the very mention of the word. May-day ; and never a brighter and breezier one than this of 1890. Even the caged canaiy knew the time, and by dawn was offering a ringing welcome to the advancing sun. I fan- cied there was music even in the alien sparrow's chirp ; but, without stopping to determine, hur- ried along the almost silent streets, eager for the fields, the woods, the meadow, and the misty river-shore. Beyond the city's bounds the whole world was at its best ; green grass, bright foliage, 8* 89 90 In Touch with Nature. a pale-blue sky, and north-bound warblers every- where. Birds are not given to consult the almanac, but it is fitting that the myriad songsters that we have missed for months should appear in force upon this magic date, May I ; and so it was this year. Seldom have I seen so many at one time. A long- neglected field was the first spot at which a halt was made, and it was a happy thought to linger in and about the tall weeds, remnants of last year's growth, and the sturdy bushes that filled the angles of an old worm-fence. Here were sparrows in abundance. Not the unfortunate importations, but our native ones. Song-sparrows were ec- static, field-sparrows exultant, white-throats de- monstrative, and the delightful chippers joyous. It was a competitive concert, each claiming my undivided attention and admiration, and the con- testants receiving my impartial approbation. No other thought than that of making merry seemed to enter the busy brains of any bird, so how could I do otherwise than say each was perfect, and so was each. It appeared as if none could be omitted without marring the effect. As a concert it was May-Day out of Town. 91 perfect, and would have repaid the rambler had silence for the whole day succeeded it. But this was not to be. Pausing for a moment, as if by common consent, the brief interval was seized by a rose-breasted grosbeak that perched upon the slender top of a tapering cedar and gave himself up to song. Every feather trembled, and, bowing and bending to the world below, melody poured from his brilliant throat and flooded earth and air. It was a happy thought on the part of the bird, for scarcely had he ceased when the first level rays of the rising sun smote his gorgeous breast. Truly, May-day had had an auspicious opening. What a suggestive spot to others than those on natural history bent is an old field ; the scene of busy husbandry when our grandfathers were young: now an open common, a bare, bold, half- deserted tract, its sad fate to become a town-lot ! Soon to be cut and carved until beyond recog- nition. Once a forest, and so truly grand; then a field, and but little less impressive; now, as a common, little better than a desert; the last step, a heap of dirt ! There are traces yet of the last furrows that 92 In Touch with Nature. were turned, and the broken ridges in the sod are not all hidden by the straggling weeds that have succeeded the corn. As I trace the old headland, where for a century the brier-embowered fence had stood, I find the sturdy growths of poison- ivy still lingering, but with no support but the ground, except where, these many years, a bat- tered apple-tree has withstood the assaults of whole troops of boys. To find every trace of fruitfulness gone, and a poisonous weed representing it, is a depressing ex- perience, one that dims even a brilliant May-day ; yet why should it? Is it not too commonplace an occurrence to excite comment? Whether an old farm or an old friend, it is too often a matter of poison-ivy at last. The grass is still glistening with the morning dew, but the bees are astir, humming can it be contentedly ? over such poor pasture. Mean be- yond compare are the flowers of this one-time field, and but a single buttercup is within sight. There are weeds, though, that thrive upon ill treatment, and shrubs so hardy they withstand neglect. The village cows cannot tramp all bloom May- Day out of Town. 93 out of existence, and a bit of chickweed or a mat of whitlow-grass here and there star the stunte^ grass. But where is the honey for the patient bees ? Surely not in such flowers as these, and their beauty alone is not an attraction ; beauty that needs a magnifier that man may see it. Is it an inherited instinct that brings the bees? Scarcely that ; but the day was when the bloom- ing clover tempted the whole hive. Everywhere there is ruin nature cannot wholly conceal. The old apple-tree is the last vestige of an orchard, and beyond it, where the ground slightly rises, are the scattered stones of a founda- tion-wall. Better than these, even, to recall the past, there grows a dwarfed lilac-bush hard by, with no other evidence of life than a few half- expanded leaves. Wild life, save the few birds and omnipresent insects, has long since disap- peared, and this it is makes the song of every sparrow heard to-day sad, when we pause to think of what has been. The sparrow now perched on the lone lilac sings sweetly as ever, but what of the merry host that thronged the vanished lilac hedge and dreamed of no better world than the 94 In Touch with Nature. cottage garden of nigh a century ago ? Then the morning songs of merry birds fell not upon deaf ears here, where the farmer lived far from the town, and his fields on every side were weighted with the award of toil. But we must bow to the inevitable. The growing town is inexorable, and to mourn a dismantled farm is mawkish sentimen- tality. Another May-day will be celebrated here, not by the songs of birds, but by the grating of saws and thud of the hammer. New habitations will arise upon the ruins of the old, and still longer become the town-dweller's tramp ere he reaches the open country. The naturalist's last chance at this spot will then be when the earth is upturned and a cellar dug ; when, perchance, relics of the Indians, or bones of the animals the dusky hunters slew, will hold him for the day; or some local historian may air his knowledge over the belongings of other days, a rusty ploughshare or a well-worn coin. As I now stand listening to the songs of birds, their farewell concert it may be, I fancy that I see a troop of graybeards hobbling hither to watch the building of a new house, and, gathering about some trivial trace of other days, May-Day out of Town. 95 hear their leader say, " Here was my father's farm some fifty years ago." Ancknow to the near woods. Not even the glorious grosbeak's matchless song could hold me, and the sun gilded the sorrow of the lonely field. I feared that I might fall to serious thinking, even on a May-day, when I would shout and sing. There were other pastures in which to browse, and from them I would cull sweets free from the slightest trace of bitterness. With eager steps, brushing the dew from butter- cups, a few scattered oaks were soon reached that as yet but hinted of their bright, broad leaves. Not so the densely-clustered trees beyond. These already shut from the mossy paths beneath the sun's rays, leaving in cool, gray light the snowy blossoms of dentaria, pale-blue houstonia, and pink spring-beauty. The change from field to forest was not abrupt, and yet was startling. All had appealed to the ear before, now nature ap- pealed only to the eye. Not birds and blossoms, as the rambler would ever have it, but from birds to blossoms, from tuneful to silent beauty. It is doubtful if nature in America presents a more 96 In Touch with Nature. charming spectacle than the fresh green foliage of a forest. The shadows beneath it are not harshly defined ; the straggling sunbeams light up the crooked paths, even to the winter run-ways of the mice and rabbits; there is no hint of gloom, as in midsummer. Nor is the wood but an ex- panse of mottled green. The snowy dog-wood, the blooming cherry, and violet-mantled knolls give that variety we crave when we look at nature as a whole rather than single features of it. But the woods were not deserted. Scarcely a tree was without its attendant warblers. These are essentially May-day birds. There are many that remain throughout the summer, more than one that is with us during winter ; but now the great host are upon us, the greater number bound north- ward to Maine, Canada, and beyond. These birds are widely different, yet the family likeness run- ning through all is very marked. To-day they were abroad in full force, and such marvellous energy and unceasing motion are not seen elsewhere in the bird-world. Swallows may be more swift, the humming-bird outspeed them ; but with the war- blers it is not mere flight, but the gymnastic May-Day out of Town. 97 climbing and somersaulting, over and above every twig of every tree, that shows how absolutely tire- less these birds are. Nor are they silent. Faint, but not listless, melody ripples from their breasts, whether in mid-air, seeking new hunting-grounds, or busy with the food their sharp eyes have spied out in the crannies of rough bark. Not all keep to the tree-tops. There is one, the Maryland yellow-throat, that loves the swampy ground, with its rank growth of symplocarpus and arum, and few finer song-birds have we than this, if we judge bird music by its associations. It is hard to choose among them, but I hold in high regard the bay-breasted warblers that come and go with such delightful uncertainty. It was not May-day, but nearly three weeks later, that I chanced in these woods a year ago. It might well have been called Warbler-day, so abundant were these dainty birds. To watch them was bewilder- ing, to single out any one well-nigh impossible. As I stood by a group of four large tulip-trees, that towered above the surrounding oaks, I heard a merry twitter that sounded from above, and, while clear and distinct, was distant. It came E g 9 In Touch with Nature. from the tall trees, and there, sure enough, were a host of these beauties, fly-catching on the out- skirts of creation. In the clear sunlight their contrasted colors showed well, but the moment they entered the shade each was black as ebony. Not one would come near me ; none came within thirty or forty feet from the ground. So far, a most commonplace occurrence; but, with that abrupt- ness that bewilders the on-looker, these warblers suddenly disappeared. Not a trace of them any- where, though I searched most diligently : for aught I knew, they had dissolved into the thin air in which they had been sporting. Merely a coincidence, doubtless, but this is a foundation we all build upon. Late in the evening of that day, while sitting before a film of smoke that half hid the andirons, there came a tapping at the window, loud enough to suggest Poe's raven, and, when the sash was raised, in came a bay- breasted warbler. There was no bust of Pallas for it ; and, after flitting aimlessly in the dim light, it rested on the head of a stuffed owl. The yield- ing feathers offered no foothold, and it perched next upon my table, twittered as if half afraid, and May-Day out of Town. 99 then darted back into the night. Did it come with a message from its fellows and forget or fear to deliver it ? We will never know, but I hold them now above other warblers and await their commu- nication. How many secrets do the birds with- hold ? Is there one that we can fully comprehend ? This bay -breasted fairy is a lover of tall trees, and seldom deigns to descend even to the lower branches ; yet I have twice had them peer into my face since one entered my study. There is a bond between us, yet of its import I know nothing. None the less does it bind me, and I have an inkling now of the mystery of superstition. Such trivial coincidences as I have mentioned have affected my whole life, and why not others? To injure a bay-breasted warbler would be murder on my part. Beyond the woods were the river-skirting mead- ows. There is much in a name, after all. Meadow and May-day fit well together, and he who now sees the low-lying reaches of green pasture and treacherous marsh, perhaps sees them at their best. Possibly this has been said of these same meadows seen at other seasons, but something must be allowed for May-day enthusiasm. We are under IOO In Touch with Nature. a new order of things now, and abrupt changes always lead to extravagant expressions. Spring has been relegated to mythology ; is a pretty play- thing for the folk-lore student. It is a long time since we have had a real winter, and April of this year was once white with snow, and wore a frosty mantle oftener than did March ; but to-day, May- May-Day out of Town. 101 day, it is summer. If there is any meaning in temperature, in the condition of vegetation, in the activity of animal life, then summer reached us during the past night. She came with the whip- poorwill, as, according to the Indians, she always does. What could have given rise to the idea of a whole season sandwiched between winter and summer? As so often happens, the reckless profusion of attractions was bewildering, and every one with merit worthy of undivided attention. It is well to be a specialist in such a place. He is the happier botanist who never hears a bird sing. This morn- ing, in and about the marshes, little and great frogs vied with each other in shouting the merits of May-day. The shrill, fife-like notes of some, the rattling click of others, and the deep bass of batrachian patriarchs proved a mighty chorus, that impressed if it did not charm. Think of frogs, perhaps tens of thousands to an acre, and each screeching, roaring, whistling at its best ! These creatures have an object in all this, but what? The naturalists say these sounds are love-calls; but what of affection as violent as their cacopho- 102 In Touch with Nature. nous announcement of it ? What if the tender human swain proposed through a fog-horn, and his lady replied with a steam-whistle ? But in an instant the meadows were silent. Not a frog whimpered. In wonderment I looked about, and saw nothing amiss but the shadow of a cloud ; and this, doubtless, had been the cause. Could it have been associated in their minds with the shadows cast by passing birds, as the herons and bittern, their greatest enemies ? This is giving the frogs credit for considerable wit, but not more than is their due. Soon the great roaring recommenced, and again as suddenly ceased. No shadow of a cloud dis- turbed them then, but a gentle breeze, that swept over the water with great speed, leaving a chill behind it. It would seem as if the day's outing must abruptly close. With folded arms, and back resting against a sturdy oak, it was not so doleful an incident after all, even on May-day, to look across the meadows while it rained. The swal- lows were in ecstasies ; the hawks screamed with delight ; robins replied to the distant thunder ; and now, as if assured that no danger threatened May-Day out of Town. 103 them, the frogs joined in their mighty chorus once again. Surely for many minutes the lovers of Wagnerian music would have been entranced. The shower was of short duration, and a happy incident, for beauty emerging from a bath is ever engaging. While waiting for this the time sped happily. The huge oak that sheltered me has no history, it is true, being a growth of this quiet Indian and staid Quaker country, but no tree needs such fortuitous aid to render it an object of admiration. Here on the meadows oaks re- place rocks, and are scarcely less an evidence of the world's stability. The rocks have their his- tory plainly written upon them ; but what of the chafed and gnarly branches of the primeval oaks ? what of the murmuring breezes that I now hear, and the scream of the winters' storms that has been so often sounded ? Truly, the autobiogra- phy of an oak would be rare reading. And yet, so strongly implanted is our belief in man's tran- scendent importance that trees with a human his- tory outvie all others. Let us be sure that a tragedy even a disgusting one was enacted be- neath its branches, and the gaping crowd will be 104 I n Touch with Nature. blind to all else the forest contains. What boots it that some truly great man stood here two cen- turies ago, if his coming was a necessity and not a sentiment ? He who follows, not merely in an- other's footsteps, but breaks his own path to do homage to an aged tree, is the greater man. Tree- worship is as old as religion itself, and a worthier phase of it than hero-worship. It still rains, and I recall another May-day out- ing when colonial history gave zest to the ramble at the outset, but soon faded before the teeming wealth of natural history. With a companion I followed the general trend of the Towsissink Creek, where yet stands a remnant of the primeval forest, and came suddenly to a shallow basin where bubbles many a sparkling spring, the whole overshadowed by the out-spreading branches of a single tree. A nobler temple was never reared than a white-oak in its prime, and here was one without a blemish ; a tree five feet in diameter and more than one hundred in the spread of its branches. But there are other and larger oaks nearer home, so why come so far to visit this ? It is a tree with a history; one that was blazed May-Day out of Town. 105 with P when the boundary of Penn's first purchase was marked, from the spruce upon the bank of the Delaware westward to the Neshaminy. Armed with his note-book and compass, my companion studied the tree as an ancient deed-mark, and left me to drift wheresoever fancy might determine. I scarcely moved and had no desire to wander. It was my most happy fate to be held by the mute eloquence of the imperious oak, and I long rested upon a grassy bed, looked upward at the tree's strange gestures, and marked the continuous stream of life that, as if to consult an oracle, sud- denly appeared and as speedily departed. I was the only slave, perhaps, but ready to kiss my chains. There was little to commend and much to deplore when my companion reappeared and snapped them. Probably nowhere, in the same space, could life in such varied forms be found as in, on, and about such an oak as this. It was alike the home or resting-place of the extremes of bird-life, the eagle and the humming-bird. The raccoon, squirrel, and mice of two kinds made it a home or temporary refuge ; snakes were among its branches and about its roots ; the lizard and 106 In Touch with Nature. the tortoise were here alike at home, and the pool where gathered the waters of the springs so closely nestled by the tree that the two were one; and here were lithe salamanders and dainty fishes. The teeming millions of insect-life I pass by. Is it strange, then, to have forgotten that here was the tree singled by Penn as one of his landmarks, and one that every Indian must recognize when he hunted in the surrounding forest or planted his corn-field in the clearings ? But what of the meadows again ? for it has ceased raining. Doubtless there might be much discovered if one had the pluck to plunge in medias res, but walking through wet weeds is not attractive. Man's ancestor was an aquatic creature so very long ago that his love of water has not remained equal to such a task. I skirted the low grounds, where the cow-path offered a fair footing, and played bo-peep with a bull-frog. He was a monstrous fellow of his kind, and took my in- trusion testily. There was a trace of fire in his great, watery eyes, and defiance, I fancied, in the grunt that heralded every leap. Was this really meant as a warning that injury would be inflicted May- Day out of Town. 107 if I ventured too far ? So far, at least, I have not solved the problem of a frog's intelligence ; and the sunshine now was growing too bright to warrant tarrying longer. I left the frog to his Maying and went upon my own. The flowers were fresher since their recent bath; the birds took up the songs the shower had cut short ; every wheel was again in motion, and I walked as if speed was the true spirit of an outing. Such spurts of aimless activity are not uncommon, but, happily, they are of short duration ; sooner or later we butt against a stone wall. I butted against the strange spectacle of a bat's carnival ; at least, I can think of no clearer description. There were hundreds of them, or so it seemed, and not one was bat-like and natural. Had it been March I, and not May-day, I should have concluded it was their first outing, and much joy had made them mad ; but here they were, dancing up and down and seldom circling, the point of attraction or fas- cination being a tall tulip-tree that, I knew, had a great hollow in its trunk. From it, it may be, they had come ; but why in broad daylight ? Not one made any sound save the fluttering of their io8 In Touch with Nature. leathern wings. There was no quarrelling. It was a thoroughly weird, unearthly, and disturbing sight, that gave a sombre tint to the remaining hours of the day ; that reversed the happy order that gives a silver lining to a leaden cloud, and unto this day I never see a bat but I recall that host of fluttering imps that, by their mysterious antics, closed in sadness a merry May- day out of town. Windy Bush. 1 F it be true that the birds which haunt the bab- bling brooks sing only of rippling waters, echo the bell-like trickling of tiny streams, and trill the murmuring of the fretted tide, then the wood- peewee has caught the languor of the hot high noon, and his note, when it fills the woods, even before the sun climbs the distant hills, is an evidence of what the day will be. For years I have held the long-drawn notes of this fly-catcher to be so far prophetic. To-day, save the red-eye, that, too, braves the noontide, all other birds were silent before the dew had gone from the grass, and the doleful peewee was our perpetual reminder of what was coming. Its song was so languid, so full of longing, that the breeze seemed to lose its freshness, as though commanded to be sad and 10 109 no In Touch with Nature. take on a funereal pace, leaving all thought of May-day merriment behind it. But let me say where I happen to be, and why. As the sun set yesterday, our wanderings ceased, and, by happy chance, M. and I camped on Windy Bush. What a grandly suggestive name for hot-weather days ! The tent ready, the supper cooked, the camp-fire freshened, we were ready for a moonlight stroll, and by its happily uncertain light, that leaves the imagination to build what it chooses of that our prosy eyes but dimly see, we listened to the charming chatter of the oldest inhabitant ; learned when and by whom the oldest houses were built ; the strange adventures of the " originals," as he called the first settlers ; what was still current of the Indians. He pointed out the mineral spring, a cave dug by the Indians in the hill-side, and showed us where red men were buried ; told so much, indeed, that we felt as if on Windy Bush had always been our home, brought us in touch with Nature, ever kind fortune's goodliest gift. Many an old man of an old neighborhood is an uncut gem of humanity. He had, at least, not rounded out fourscore years for Windy Bush. in nothing; and when at last the wordy interview was over, and I had sought the shelter of my tent, there was many a grain of good wheat to be sifted from his abundant chaff. Morning broke beautifully over the ringing woods, and as the birds discovered us we were greeted not as new-comers, but as old friends. Whether thrush or grosbeak, lark or robin sounded the louder or the sweeter welcome, it matters not; but let the future wanderer rest assured bird-music is best heard when we are but half awake. Then its spirit only is sifted into our senses : the pure wine without a trace of lees. Where nothing comes amiss, be it botany or history, a matter of birds and beasts, or the find- ing of a flint arrow, it is safe to start off in any direction ; and the initial tramp was towards the quaint old house, of which we had heard much. It was but a little two-story stone dwelling, framed of huge oak logs, and the interspaces filled with broken stone and held by mortar as white as the driven snow. At the chimney or fireplace end the masonry was solid. All was weed-grown and ii2 In Touch with Nature. forsaken about the one-time yard, but I noticed a straggling yes, struggling rose-bush clung to a corner, and a single half-opened bud showed tim- idly above the tall grass. How like, I thought, many a man who has lost heart, living hopelessly among unsympathetic folks, a very prince in the realm of beggardom. Turning a great iron key that threaded the maze of a ponderous lock and drew back its bolt, I entered this ancient dwelling, now deserted, but straightway peopled with the spirits of that hardy folk who knew the Indians as neighbors. The cavernous fireplace, now cold and clammy, fit home for salamanders that scuttled across the hearth-stones, grew quickly bright with the flick- ering flames that of old leapt from the back log. The dim outline of a high-backed settle filled the corner; the trusty rifle leaned against the wall. From the crane swung the steaming kettle : there lacked nothing of a happy old-time colonial home. The wind that moaned through the huge chimney and rattled the loose shingles of the roof was not a sobering sound ; fancy freed it of all melancholy. The wild tales of woodland adven- Windy Bush. 1 1 3 ture and hair-breadth escape were heard again, for an hour I lived in an earlier century. It is well that the scene should shift suddenly. It was but a step to the deep woods, and both M. and myself aimed for the time to live a free wild life, in touch only with uncontaminated Nature. Birds sang almost without a pause, yet the woods were silent. The brief intermissions were so deadly still that about us we had not sound, but silence framed in song. Yet this is Windy Bush, and suggestive of tumult rather than peace. It was the trees' holiday, I concluded, for no rude blasts troubled them, and the fitful breezes were considerate. The truth is, they happened to pass by high overhead, as the masses of white clouds clearly showed. When, particularly in winter, these blasts of cruel air swept across the hill, it is not strange that every tree shivered and the dang- ling dead leaves rattled, and suggested all manner of uncanny thoughts to the Indians. Indeed, they claimed that summer or winter the wind never ceased, and hence the name that still clings to it. Later, these rustling leaves made faint- hearted folk a little timid, or, as the octogenarian h 10* H4 I* 1 Touch with Nature. put it, " better minded to go 'round the hill o* nights than go over it." I am happy to say I slept unguarded upon its summit, nor came to grief. My only sorrow was that of leaving so soon. The Indians were right about the wind, perhaps, but it was not always the trees that were bowed before it ; to-day it was the clouds. Swift as the swallow, on its deadly quest, The fleecy clouds of summer hurry by, Borne by the breeze : as by great fear oppressed They onward rush where sounds the warning cry ; 'Tis said a curse upon the hill doth rest For crime of ages gone ; by Nature still unblest. But brave of heart in these sad latter days The woodland bird forgives the deed once done ; He shouts at break of day his hymn of praise, And trills a soothing song at set of sun ; No fear of harm to him his tongue betrays, Then, lingering here, why stand in dread amaze? No blanched and trembling blossom starred the grass, No feathery fern shrank curled upon its stem ; Though restless breezes through their petals pass, The forest flowers looked boldly back at them. Why then, unmeaning dread, our minds harass ? Despite our pride and strength, a coward still, alas ! Windy Bush. 1 1 5 The wood-peewee was right in his prognostics ; it was torrid at noontide. The cows in the distant pastures gathered in the shade of scattered trees, and in many ways it is well to take our cue from other forms of life. Many a despised creature, even a worm, can give us useful hints, if we but heed their methods. A nap at mid- day may prove more refreshing than a night-long slumber. I was painfully envious of the far-off cows until, like them, I curled in the shade of a hill-side chestnut, and then how trivial a matter was the blazing sun ! Whether a-dreaming or awake, it matters not, but the distant landscape was a source of joy. Bow- man's Hill and many a mile of intervening meadow spread out before me, and what a laden table at which one's soul might feast ! We may envy the eagle his all-searching gaze, but are con- soled by feeling we can reach, in thought, beyond the horizon. Whether hill or dale, it is but the bird's resting-place ; but within the same bounds is a home for more than a mere body. Weary now, I halt in the restoring shade of a splendid chestnut and wander, the while, among the far-off hills. u6 In Touch with Nature. The looked-for shower came far sooner than expected, and my first intimation of its approach was the threatening peal of thunder that echoed down the valley, and seemed rather to gather strength, than die, as it had reached the hills be- yond. Such thunder, without a hint of lightning's destructive touch in its tones, is one of Nature's noblest melodies. It does not awe the birds that sang merrily in reply to many a peal. But the Windy Bush. 117 sudden downpour silenced them, and, like myself, they sought shelter. Doubtless they have in mind many^ a safe retreat, for they suffer from wet feathers at times as much or more than we do by wet clothing. I found none with bedraggled feathers, however, when the rain was over, and, indeed, was more entertained by a huge slug that slipped slimily over a prostrate log than by the robins and thrushes that made every nook and corner of the forest ring with their rejoicings. This slug watched me curiously with its absurd telescopic eyes, which continuously collapsed when I became too demonstrative. But its curiosity was unbounded, and quickly reappeared the slender stalks with eyes perched on their tips. I teased his slugship for a long time, and finally made bold to touch one of the eye-stalks. Of- fended beyond measure, it moved off with its head tucked under its breast, and took a back track gracefully, turning at a sharp angle, and made of its body for a time a squeezed-up letter V. Then I left the poor creature in peace. The glistening trail of slime that it left behind it, by which alone I was to remember the meeting, was not pleasing ; 1 1 8 In Touch with Nature. but why complain ? Half the people we meet leave as uncanny a track on the tablet of our memory. By the camp-fire, not long after, I was disposed to rebel at the thought of leaving so sweet a spot ; but there was the great beyond through which we proposed to ramble, and I soon returned to com- mon sense. How easy it is to be foolish ! Whether paradise or purgatory depends in great measure upon ourselves ; but looking across the valley now, I cannot believe the hills beyond hold in store for us anything better than these wood-clad reaches of old Windy Bush. > On Historic Ground. IT is an experience worth the having to pass a delightful May-day in an old colonial mansion ; to be able to wander about a spacious dwelling built more than two hundred years ago, still in excellent repair, and not fatally modernized. Think of it ! I passed a postprandial hour in a cozy room wherein Franklin and his friend Galloway were wont to discuss electricity and the coming crisis. Whether or not Galloway thought Franklin a crank in the matter of electricity, possibly no one knows ; but these intellectual giants took opposite sides politically, and for aught I know, parted, during Revolutionary times, for their remaining years. It was a happy thought, on mine host's part, to give me an inkling of the mansion's history; forthwith my imagination did me good service in peopling every nook and corner with the old-time folk. The stately, high-backed chairs were 119 120 In Touch with Nature. occupied by grave, but not forbidding, men ; the wide hall resounded with the pleasant patter of fun-loving youth, whose romping savored of the wild woods about them. Life had its drawbacks, doubtless, then as now; but who has not cast loving backward glances and thought of the boundless forest before the moccasin-print of the Indian had vanished ? It was so to-day. The hands of the world-clock were set back two cen- turies while I tarried in the house. Then, the afternoon's ramble. It is an unfor- tunate taste, perhaps, but tales and traditions of long ago, howsoever teeming with comedy or with tragic events, are soon forgotten when, in the shade of clustered hemlocks, the wild-bird's song and flaunting blossoms champion the passing hour. It was so to-day. Strolling over grassy fields and pausing only to pay due respect to an enormous hawthorn that stands like a sentinel in a wide reach of pasture, we soon reached the creek-side woods. No sound save the rippling of rapid waters stayed our progress ; for who is not ready to pause when the wood-thrush sings ? Then, afar off, was heard the vehement reiteration of the On Historic Ground. 121 oven-bird and the pleasant lisping of a passing warbler. Reading here and there in the open pagesx of the woodland almanac, my mind ran to orchids, and, careless of the treacherous foot-path, my eyes sought the damp soil between mossy rocks, hoping at every step to find some treasure of fantastic bloom. Nor did I look in vain. That pink-and-white beauty, the showy orchis, unknown at the home hill-side, grew here in great profusion. Still, despite their numbers, it needed constant care to spy them out, they were so carefully guarded by overtopping growths. It is not strange that many people pass through the woods and xre-enter the open world empty-handed, and worse, without a new idea. In matters botanical, as well as those of more practical and prosy nature, eternal vigilance is the price of novelty. But the woods were not all green and orchid- spotted. The pinxter flower held its showy head aloft, and whenever the genial sunbeams struggled through the interlocking branches of the trees, bluebells and snowy wind-flower brightened the grim, gray rocks. It was a fitting place to rest and ruminate, here, where the sloping rocks offered F H 122 In Touch with Nature. a tempting seat ; but our rumination was strictly physical. We were lost, for the time, to nature's beauties, and vigorously chewed sweet cicely. It may seem to many a sad fall to quit the higher pleasures of contemplation and seek com- fort in eating weeds, but the merit of sweet cicely lies hidden in the aromatic root rather than in its inconspicuous white flowers, which, as yet, had not appeared. Why not, then, if the weed be mentioned, tell the whole truth ? It is good to eat, and good for nothing else ; and its merit as food is not merely that it is pleasantly aromatic ; it has, too, the magic charm of recalling other days. He who chewed sweet cicely forty years ago, and had no other care than the fear that the supply might some day be exhausted, will know what joy in after-years lies in reclining on a rock in the woods, and while listening to birds and rippling waters, chewing sweet cicely again. It is worth a small fortune, after weeks of worry, to be able, if but for a brief hour, to be a boy once more. The goal was not yet reached. On through the tangled underbrush and over hill-side brooks On Historic Ground. 123 we came at last to other rocks that jutted from the steeply-sloping bank and the creek's bed. These- uptilted rocks also offered us most tempting seats, and had not a shower threatened, I, for one, should have gladly remained until now. It is not enough to see the world by daylight. There is a night side of nature full of meaning and attractive- ness, and he who knows it not has but half of the world's story wherewith to please him. It would have been jolly indeed to camp at such a spot, notwithstanding the rain, for the prospect of an early return to the city was a blacker cloud than any the sky above could ever boast of. Regardless of the distant mutterings of the coming storm, I looked for garnets in the glisten- ing rocks, and saw hundreds that were still held fast, but found none that I could carry away. They were dingy anyhow, so I do not care ; and perhaps in anticipation of such a result, I was given a huge rosy crystal from Alaska that out- glittered all the gems in the Neshaminy valley. It was the old story of the many against one ; there were none to bear me company, and I paused when it came to perching alone upon the 124 ^ n Touch with Nature. wrinkled rock. All reluctantly, I turned my face homeward, and there was something soothing in the silence of the woods. Scarcely a bird twittered save the restless swallows, and blossoms lost their brightness. Sorrow, it seems, sees the world through a smoked glass. If a summer shower is to be avoided as though there was pestilence in its touch, we were none too soon in reaching the kindly shelter of the old mansion. It rained steadily for a short time, and so I was given again opportunity to linger in the historic rooms. The subdued light fitted well with the surroundings, for antiquity loses some- thing of its charm when exposed to too bright sunlight. In the gloaming time's ravages are veiled, and what might have marred the scene at noonday was now an added glory. The rain ceasing, a second start was made, and with those pleasing impressions that such a visit is sure to give, we hurried down a long lane, pausing a moment to look once more at the giant hemlocks that overshadowed the gate, and then Trevose, the one-time home of the Growdens, was to us a thing of the past. All Day Afloat. 1 HE world is never as empty as it seems; but then, when beyond the town limits, one must be willing to link arms with a weed or commune with a cobble-stone. For an hour I had seen little but water, the boat merely skimming the surface in response to the oar-stroke, and disturbing nothing save the few spirit ducks that cleft the clear air without a sound ; then I tarried at the fishery, as the seine was drawn, and what wealth of vigorous life was brought to the " keen, sword- cutting air !" Shad, herring, and a host of lesser fry were tossed ashore, life that so soon before had peopled the unsuspected world of water over which I had thoughtlessly passed. Let me again protest against the common impression that life is absent because beyond the range of our vision. If it should so happen that at a given hour every ri* 125 1 26 In Touch with Nature. one remained in-doors, a city would appear deserted ; so the well-wooded banks of the river as I passed by. Not a leaf seemed to stir, and not a bird came or went; not even a swallow. Life absent, indeed ! Rounding a pine-clad point, while drifting in the mile-wide stream where not a feather was to be seen, the music from a hundred All Day Afloat. 127 gleesome throats was mingled : the tireless red- eye's half-impatient cry, the fretting of the over- anxious crows, the boasting oriole's exultant call, the sad song of the plaintive thrush, the ceaseless chatter of the restless wren, here met upon the waters. A moment here and the silence was oppressive ; turning but a step and all the world was merry. There seems to be little doubt but that birds and blossoms have tastes in common. Of all the features of a bright May morning, no one is more in touch with the conditions than the north-bound warblers. It may be that, if they tarried long, we would count them tiresome, but never at such a time as this will one weary of watching such marvels of brilliant bird-life. There are three to be found in this river valley that match well with the bright plumage of the birds of the tropics, the hooded, the spotted, and Blackburnian war- blers. To-day I had the spotted only to keep me company, and had they chosen to remain so long, I would willingly still be sitting in my boat. Never a pessimistic thought clouds their joy, and none overshadows the on-looker at such a time 128 In Touch with Nature. and place. The sobering thought that these birds were dealing death to myriads of unseen insects does not intrude. It is well to be without a settled purpose if, .being baffled in that, we are stranded and helpless. I turned from the river's bank to the river's bed, hoping to see and recognize some, at least, of the many fishes found here. In this I failed. All were in too great haste to reach some distant point, and the occasional dark flash or silvery glitter may have been a herring or a perch. Not even the minnows tarried within range, and the curious darters that rest on the sand jerked themselves into new positions or quite burrowed under flat pebbles whenever I moved my head for a better view. At last a puff of wind half turned the drifting boat,, and a little company of these darters was brought to view. I had not to move to see each one, and, very conveniently, they did not stir. These fish cannot take a leisurely stroll up or down stream ; it is either a question of sitting still or darting off to new quarters. As I looked at them to-day, each rested as demurely on the rippled sand as listening and learned judges. All Day Afloat. 129 Let us hope they have thoughts to occupy them, for they appear to have little else ; and that their wits are ready events proved. A small snake passed dangerously near, and straightway these little darters disappeared ; but it was a desperate effort. Not a tittle of the ease of a startled pike, but a heavy contortion of the whole body, rapid vibration of every fin, and a mad rush for shelter. In spite of this, they seemed to take in their surroundings at a glance, for the snake passed by without a victim, and then, reaching down, I lifted here and there a flat pebble, and found these fish beneath them. But one source of entertainment was lacking. No sturgeons were seen. One hundred and forty- two years ago an observing traveller passed this very spot, and has left on record, " Sturgeons leaped often a fathom into the air. We saw them continuing this exercise all day, till we came to Trenton." It is not so strange that our bird-life should have lost many attractive features, as cranes and pelicans, but the bottom of the river appeared to offer a fairly, safe harbor for even such huge fishes. If increase of human population has alone i 130 In Touch with Nature. to do with it, are we slowly being reduced to domestic animals and insects ? What an undiscovered country is the bed of a river! A mile or more away, where the water was much deeper, I again endeavored to peer into the depths, and saw more than one suggestive object. Not strange forms of life merely, albeit there were many, and these may well suffice to bid us pause, for however commonplace any creature may be when dead and out of place, it is an object of ceaseless interest when in its native haunts. Let one watch mackerel in the open sea, and then draw comparison with the hacked and salted carcass in the corner grocery. There were dimly to be discerned traces of old-time navigation, and how I longed to catch a glimpse of an Indian canoe ! Doubtless a vain wish, but not an absurd one. Writes Peter Kalm of the Indians of this very river valley : " Whenever they intended to hollow out a thick tree for a canoe, they laid dry branches all along the stem of the tree as far as it must be hollowed out. They then put fire to those dry branches, and as soon as they were burnt they were replaced by others. . . . The tree All Day Afloat. 131 being burnt hollow as far as they found it sufficient, . . they took . . . stone hatchets or sharp flints and quartzes, or sharp shells, and scraped off the burnt part of the wood and smoothened the boats within. By this means they likewise gave it what shape they pleased. ... A canoe was commonly between thirty and forty feet long." There are doubtless many of these deeply buried in the river mud, but how small the chance of their discovery ! I have no such excellent for- tune to report, but something scarcely less sug- gestive: above the sand projected a ship-timber; possibly a bit of some old Dutchman's boat, such as passed up and down this stream almost three centuries ago. It looked old, and why not think it? It is on record that about 1624-25 the Dutch West India Company established a trading-house on a small island near the western shore of the Delaware, just below Trenton Falls, a mere rocky ripple, and placed thereon four families. The Dutch carried on a profitable trade with the In- dians as early as 1621. There is evidence of this in the objects gathered from one-time village sites, and many valuable relics were unearthed well-nigh 132 In Touch with Nature. a century ago near the head of tide-water, which would be worth their weight in gold were they in existence now ; but they were valueless then, when the Indians were looked upon simply as " hea- then" and scarcely human ; although a book con- cerning them had appeared declaring them to be the lost tribes. Was it not enough to juggle them out of their lands without permitting a crank to lie about them afterwards ? This slowly-decaying piece of hewn timber was suffering no sea-change. Neither coral nor sea-weed beautified it, and the few lazy mussels that ploughed the sand near by were as dull and forbidding in hue ; but there was, better than all this, a wealth of suggestiveness. Taking my oars in hand, I hurried now to the opposite shore and landed upon a narrow but clean, bright, pebbly beach. Again the Indian loomed up, but without the Dutch traders. The rounded bits of many different rocks were full of beauty in themselves, and here they were mingled with fragments of bog iron ore or limonite, which recalled the contents of more than one Indian grave I had opened. Here were scattered little cups and rings and many an oddly-fashioned form All Day Afloat. 133 such as attracted other eyes, centuries ago, for reasons given ; and it was evident whence came the cue to^the Indian in the matter of personal adorn- ment. Not a type of stone ornament as they are found on the upland fields but has its double in the water-worn and frost-fractured fragments that strewed the beach. But was there ever an Indian at this point ? Who can say ? Nevertheless, as I pushed my boat off shore, I sighted a broken arrow-point. It was a quick transition from the past to the present, but not an unwelcome one. A straining tug rounded the near-by bend, and, following in its wake, a string of rafts. Here was a golden opportunity to return without labor. I had but to hold to the long rudder of the hindmost raft, and did so. All was novel, and he who loves laziness would have been charmed. Still, I could not be altogether idle. The same incentive, it may be, moved the birds, and many took the ride with me. It was rather startling to see a green heron perched upon a log and in no wise concerned about my close proximity. It seldom shifted its position, and seemed asleep, not even noticing its fellows that 12 134 I n Touch with Nature. continually crossed and recrossed the river. These were never silent ; my companion always so, for which I was grateful, as the others were forever clearing their throats, and never getting beyond a guttural. Purple grakles hopped from log to log, insect-hunting, I supposed, but nothing like a bug was within sight from where I sat. A song-spar- row came within a log's length and sang twice be- fore departing. All told, we were a merry com- pany ; and what a luxury is elbow-room ! Public highways a mile wide are seldom a feature of the land. Here we were as much alone as if in the moon. An Up-River Ramble. 1 HE definition of " picnic," given by Stormonth, is really a brief but suggestive essay on a delight- ful subject. Perhaps I can meet all requirements by merely stating: June 20, perfect day, picnic. See Stormonth. Think of a perfect June day ! And add thereto "Top-Rock," the "Ringing Stones," and "High Falls," with a ride in the valley of the Delaware that never becomes commonplace, however long the day's ramble. The drive at the base of the cliff was of itself sufficient to fill the day ; but although we might well have halted at every step to revel in nature's riches, there was an over- powering impulse in every one to go yet farther and reach Ultima Thule. It is scarcely to one's credit to admit that these mag'nificent rocks, with ferns, flowers, and reckless trees that clung to 135 136 In Touch with Nature. giddy heights, should have passed with but a glance. There was such suggestiveness in each overhanging shelf and gloomy crevice, indelible footprints of Time, the day might well have been spent in contemplation at any point. There was food for thought in abundance, but, alas ! there was food also in various hampers, and the day was devoted to a picnic in its broadest sense. Let us return to Stormonth : he says, Pick, to eat by morsels ; Nick, the former familiar name of the tankard for liquor. Strictly, then, we were to Pic, and the nicking was to be omitted. At least, I have nothing to say of the latter. The rocks whereon we halted for the feast afforded ample room not only to recline while eating, but to dance and make merry should one be inclined, while the more staid and geologically inclined found the flat layers of slaty rock an absorbing object-lesson. There was but a mere rivulet trick- ling over one edge of the exposure at the time, but every evidence that at no distant day, geologi- cally speaking, a torrent had rushed through the glen and leaped with majestic force over the brink of a precipice hard by. How much more readily An Up-River Ramble. 137 we may recall the past if we have even the slen- derest thread holding us thereto ! This little rivu- let, that one might pass over without seeing, sang no less the wondrous story of the past because it lisped in childish treble, and every utterance was lost if a bird sang or the wind murmured through the hemlocks. It was almost pathetic to see the waters gather their puny strength where the flat rocks abruptly ended and plunge into the deep gorge below. Plunging as if to move the mighty rocks that barred their way, but only to be lost among the broken masses that strewed the dark, tortuous channel of the mountain-brook. No charm was missing because the spot was now so calm. It was a time fitted to contemplate what had been rather than follow the rush of tumultu- ous activity. I was thankful, for one, that there was no roar of sullen waters to awe, no giddy abyss from which to shrink in fear. Better, by far, the bell-like ripple, cheery as a bird's song, that so gently hinted of the tragic long-ago. The feast over, we were conducted to the " Ringing Stones," and here grandeur of a wholly different type confronted us. It is hard 12* 138 In Touch with Nature. to believe that such a spot could fail to arouse interest in the spectator, and yet the fame of these rocks is not far-travelled. Until I saw them to- day I never knew of them, and yet have lived within almost a day's walk of them all my life. In a little woods we found them resting in absolute silence, but not one but responded in deep or gayer tones to the touch of our timid feet. It was wretched walking, but we little thought of danger, as peal after peal rang out, when chosen masses were sharply struck with bits of stone. It was a most strange spot. A veritable crater, from which had bubbled up a molten mass, now cracked into huge angular masses, heaped in the most hap- hazard way, " Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled, The fragments of an earlier world." This rugged, rocky music will not bear trans- planting, and rejects a home in any mere frag- ment such as one might carry away. I am glad of this, for else these massive stones would be stolen by lovers of Wagner. The sound given out, when these masses of crystalline rock are An Up-River Ramble. 139 sharply struck with a metal hammer or a piece of stone, is due not only to the crystalline structure of the. rock itself, but to the position in which each mass lies, those having fewest points of contact with the surrounding masses having the clearest and sweetest " voices," as I call them. As had been true of every other point whereat we had tarried through the day, so here was a spot about which I longed to tarry, and, as in many a melancholy case before, was forced to console myself with the hope that I might come again. The plan of the leader must be followed out, and reluctantly turning from these sweet- tongued rocks, we were soon en route for the great feature of the day's excursion, " Top-Rock." This was no outstanding point to be seen from a distance, like a snow-capped peak, and climbed in imagination before its base was reached. To all but the leader it was a matter of faith until the moment it was fairly stepped upon. In fact, it was with some misgiving that a pedestrian tour was un- dertaken, when, the carriages halting in the dusty highway, the fact that such was necessary was announced. Had I not already seen enough ? 140 In Touch with Nature. was the question asked by more than one. Be- sides, we were at a cottage-door, and a bubbling spring,- with mossy pebbles set about, and a clam- shell cup, tempted too strongly to have faith in stronger things. But we started at last, and never hath a hedge shut in so marvellous a view. As the field was crossed, there was nothing suggestive of other than the lowest lowlands, but we were, in fact, on a long reach of table-land that ended with startling suddenness behind a hedge. A mere fragment of a wood-path was followed, when, without an intimation of what was near, the valley of the Delaware was spread out before us. We stood upon an overhanging cliff, nearly four hun- dred feet above the water. These are the Nockamixon Rocks, we were told, and very different the appearance from the summit as compared with that at the base; not that the latter does not merit all that can be said, but here we are above comparative description. These rocks are really a cliff, nearly one mile in length, of the new red sandstone, but do not be misled by this term " new." They are ancient in every sense, and their sheer front facing the east An Up-River Ramble. 141 has borne the brunt of untold centuries of storms. All that is new about them is each succeeding sum- mer'svmantle of vine and flower. These, clinging to the narrowest of ledges, and finding root-hold in the shallow cracks, gave rise to much specula- tion in my mind, for they seemed so unequal to withstanding storms, yet were as luxuriant as the growths in the valley beneath. We had had an opportunity of comparing man's work with nature, and the little canal at the very base of the bluff was a ludicrous feature of the landscape from where we stood. But the river beyond was in no wise commonplace. It flowed, as of old, serenely past innumerable bould- ers that fretted its course, but from our point of view there was no evidence of haste or hesitancy ; the flow seemingly as calm and unruffled as the wide-reaching landscape and the overarching sky. Heeding only the hills that hemmed it in, as a glistening thread of silver it reached to other scenes the high hills shut from us, and was the dearer to every rambler for that, miles away, with the same gladsome brightness, it rippled past our homes. How much there is in such a feeling ! Not 142 In Touch with Nature. strangers in a strange land, but at home, whether we wander where the river is but a mountain-brook, or broadens until lost in the sea. This it is that makes, for me, the Delaware something more than " A river bare, That glides the dark hills under," and so disputes that " There are a thousand such elsewhere As worthy of your wonder." Nature never duplicates a birthplace. We saw few flowers, but abundant evidence that there are many in their season. Finding no trace of the coveted rose-root, I contented myself with fern and purple raspberry. The rose-root has a history. Gray says of it, found " throughout Arctic America, extending southward to the coast of Maine, and cliffs of Delaware River." Think of a flower that has withstood the changes since the glacial epoch ! Here we have it; one that made the garlands of palaeolithic maidens. There is archaeology gone mad for you ! Of the immediate landscape nothing need be An Up-River Ramble. 143 said. Description, if detailed, is nauseating ; and to be worthily comprehensive who shall dare? Contemplating a landscape, one naturally drifts towards comparisons, but avoid therri sedulously. My companions, to my sorrow, were not like- minded. A fair pedagogue suggested crazy patch- work ! Miles of magnificent valley compared to a bedquilt ! And this, too, from one who is writing a novel. Her words were the one cloud that dimmed the glorious sunshine of a perfect day. A Day in New Mexico. COMING, as I had, from the far East, where nature, if seen at all, is viewed from a comparatively near stand-point, it was a novel experience to while away the hours of a sunny day, studying mountains apparently near at hand, yet miles and miles away. As I glanced, for the last time, at the landscape from the car-windows, I planned to wander across the intervening plain to at least the base of a beautiful range of rocky hills that bounded it in one direction ; but learning soon after that the proposed goal was twelve miles away, contemplated it, as stated, from afar. Probably I did not lose much, for, protected from the search- ing sunshine of a New Mexican noontide, it was possible to remain delightfully cool and yet mark the endless changes on the mountains beyond. The country here is simply a broad, treeless plain, hemmed in, at scattered points, by moun- tains. Without these the hotel would have seemed 144 A Day in New Mexico. 145 more like a ship at sea, so monotonous are these level stretches of almost barren ground ; but there is endless variety where the hills begin. Against the background of cloudless, deep-blue sky there is traced the most fantastic grouping of tapering points, narrow notches, and that chance accumu- lation of shapeless sculpture one tries in vain to disentangle. For this reason the outlook never becomes monotonous. Fancy is slow to weary of playing with such building-blocks ; but when she does, it is but a step from form to color, and the magnificence of this is only equalled by the magnitude of the other. The restless chasing of light and shadow across the rugged hill-sides never ceases. What but a moment ago were deep, dark gorges are now sunlit prominences, and the outstanding features that held our gaze so recently have now faded from view. Later, when the long shadows creep slowly across the plain, masses of snowy clouds rest upon every peak. The scene is wholly changed. Mountains and clouds become as one ; a mighty barrier that shuts out the sun. And now what of the intervening plain ? The soil is very like, if not, pulverized lava, and that G k 13 146 In Touch with Nature. vegetation should exist at all is marvellous. Yet there are bushes that thickly cover the ground, but, if we except the few sickly cotton-woods that have been planted near the dwellings, there are no trees ; their place is taken by countless windmills. These are no addition to the landscape, and are made the more hideous from being painted white, and too often spotted and splashed with red and blue. A green windmill would be far less con- spicuous, but this color appears to find little favor with the dwellers on this plain. One needs but to tarry here for a few days to learn to love trees, and, indeed, well-nigh every feature of the Atlantic seaboard States. Without this beggarly show of vegetation there would be no animal life here worth mentioning ; but as it is, the plain is far from being deserted. My attention, on leaving the cars, was first called to a few swallows twittering about the railway station ; then a dull-gray kingbird perched upon the telegraph-wires, and launched out into the glaring sunshine for huge green beetles, that seemed to replace the house-flies at home. Then, too, there were ravens that flapped lazily over the A Day in New Mexico. 147 long rows of freight-cars, croaking dismally, and, by their presence, adding no charm to the land- scape>as do the merry, noisy, cunning crows at home. Of the two birds, I prefer the latter. The raven may figure better in poetry, and its name sound less harshly upon the ear; but for the pleasant purpose of recalling days gone by, or as an object of study, give me the crow. If the ravens at Deming are fair representatives of their race, then the crow is, I believe, a brainier bird. Strolling about the plain, one other bird at- tracted my attention continually, and made the place less dreary. It was the black-throated spar- row. Although the voice was harsh and dry, fitting the arid surroundings, there was an as- surance in its lame attempts at song that the world here was not utterly desolate. I listened hour after hour to these cheerful birds, fancying there was melody in their attempts at song, and wondering why, when their lines had been cast in such forbidding places, the gift of a sweet voice had not been vouchsafed them. Does the extremely dry atmosphere have to do with it ? Not a sound that I heard had that fulness of tone common to 148 In Touch with Nature. the allied utterances at home. At the limit of my longest stroll I heard a mountain mocking-bird, as it is misnamed in the books, and his was a disap- pointing song. It was the twanging of a harp of a single string, and that a loose one. Of skunks, lizards, snakes, and creatures of that ilk I heard much, but my stay was too brief to encounter any; but of the dreaded tarantula I saw much, and, as usual, was disappointed. One would fancy, from what he reads, that this huge spider was a veritable fiend incarnate. If so, it must be at seasons only. They were not so here and now. During the day I could find no trace of them, and it is said that during the dry season they remain in their burrows or under heavy tim- ber, as the floor of the railway platform, but after sundown they made their appearance, and the first impression I received was that no other spider was so very timid. They started at approaching footsteps, were ever disposed to run when ap- proached, and showed fight only when cornered. This seemed to me the more strange, as every person I met held them to be very brave, very fierce, and very poisonous. I could not verify A Day in New Mexico. 149 these assertions, although I did not experiment upon myself as to the effects of their biting. Thaf^they can produce a very irritating sore, and the venom, when taken up by the circulation, pro- duces constitutional effects, is unquestionably true, but I do not believe that death ever results di- rectly from their bites. Not fearing the creatures, I watched one in particular, to see what evidences of intelligence it would exhibit. These were not very apparent. It simply realized that it was a prisoner, and made desperate efforts to escape. When teased with a bit of straw or leaf, it made no attempt to bite, but appeared to recognize my finger, although protected by a glove, and gave me several vicious nips, but could not penetrate an ordinary kid glove. I noticed that there was left upon my finger a minute drop of yellow, sticky fluid, after the first and second attempts to bite, but not afterwards, these two efforts seem- ingly exhausting the contents of the poison-sacs. No person that I questioned attributed a voice to the tarantula, and I failed to demonstrate that they could make a faint whizzing or whirring sound, but I fancied such was the case. On the '3* 150 In Touch with Nature. whole, these huge black spiders are disappointing, and would scarcely have received the attention that has been given them were they not superla- tively ugly, and mankind naturally afraid of the whole race of Arachnids. I was sorry to see no tarantula-hawks, as a certain gigantic blue wasp is called. They are formidable-looking creatures themselves, but de- serve encouragement as the relentless foe of the dreaded spider. It is said of them : they seem " never to rest a moment, and with tireless energy fly and walk rapidly along the ground, running into every crevice and hole, and examining every suspicious object, after the dreaded tarantula. The fate of the giant spider when discovered by the hawk is both certain and attended with fas- cinating horror. " The winged insect hovers over the victim until it finds a good opportunity to sting. The poison acts in a peculiar manner, the tarantula becoming paralyzed." The twilight is short at Deming, and when the sun sinks at last behind the distant hills it is quickly night. The birds, unlike many a robin A Day in New Mexico. 151 and thrush at home, have no evening song, and silence, were it not for myriad insects, would brood over the plain. But the crickets are now in their glory, and a sound as of rushing waters fills the air. Its volume increases and diminishes with the fitful breeze that rushes by or lazily toys with the stiff shrubbery that dots the plain. And it matters not if there be moonlight. Except the insects' steady trill, the world was now at rest ; hushed, as in deep slumber, albeit the moon over- topped the distant hills and flooded the plain with a mellow light that caused every object to stand out with startling distinctness. Here was a feature unlike our moonlit fields at home. There, the charming indistinctness shrouding every object, even when the sky is cloudless, gives the fancy full play, and a bush or tree is whatsoever we are pleased to think it ; but not so here. The plain that was bathed in brilliant sunshine through the day is almost as distinct now; and even the mountains are not less rugged, and every peak pierces the upper air, but with an added glory, for upon each there rest, and over all there twinkle, millions of glittering stars. Round about Bisbee. -ALTHOUGH I had been for some days sight- seeing from a car-window in New Mexico, and had had more than one good stroll over desert- like prairies, I was not so forcibly impressed with the fact that I was in the far West as when I reached this wonderful Arizona mining region. Then the country back of me was indeed " on East," and I was at last " out West." Of Bisbee itself there is little to be said. It is gathered together in a little valley, hidden by high hills, and presents no striking feature, as seen from the station, when you leave the cars, or later, as you pass along its single street. The little adobe houses perched upon the hill-sides, however, are somewhat picturesque, and, what is of more importance, very comfortable. It was then late in July the rainy season, and from noon until 152 Round about Bisbee. 153 about sunset the rain is likely to be violent ; but during the early morning one may wander over the hills and along the valleys without fear of a wetting. What had I in view in coming here ? was the tiresome question that every miner asked as opportunity afforded; and when assured that it was merely to see new sights and a new country, an expression of doubt was plainly depicted on their countenances. They believed it was not merely to see a new flower or hear a new bird that brought me here. But it was : and now what of the sights and sounds round about Bisbee? Upon arrival I did not plunge in medias res, but looked upon the summits of the highest hills as inaccessible, and revelled in what I called mountain- climbing by scrambling over the near-by rocks. This tested my strength, gave me practice, added to my surefootedness, and so the day of a steep ascent found me equal to the task. We were off by 5 A.M., three of us, with a burro to carry our traps and a small boy to coax the patient donkey over the rocky trail. Our purpose was twofold : to reach the summit, and take photo- 154 In Touch with Nature. graphs of such objects as struck our fancy. We succeeded admirably. There was not one familiar feature about or above us from the very start, for even the air and sky were strangely clear, and a soaring eagle that kept long in view seemed almost within gunshot, although circling far above an adjoining mountain ; and later, when, following a swift-descending swoop, its impatient scream came floating earthward, we stopped as if the bird was threatening us. So it was that at the very outset the scales dropped from our eyes and our ears were quickened to novel sounds. But no new sound, as a bird's song, is so sure to attract attention as some one that has the subtle charm of association. A curved-billed thrush across the wide valley commenced singing, and at once the mountains vanished. How long I stood in the cool shadow of a thrifty oak I can- not tell, but when from a misty cloud the moun- tains reappeared, I was quite alone. I had been wandering under the homestead oaks, and for long after their misty outlines stood against the sky. If a clear atmosphere and high altitude sharpens Round about Bisbee. 155 one's wits, it may, too, overstrain the nerves and lead to many a blunder, particularly if the spirit of adventure is well upon one. I was in such a plight, and strange indeed if something should not befall me before I joined my party ! As I was trudging along alone, every pebble rattling beneath my tread, I fancied some strange creature in my path. Not a crooked stick but suggested a ser- pent; and so, guarding against imagined dan- gers, I finally met with a real one : I sat upon a cactus. As a cure for unbridled imagination, I commend it. To better nurse my countless trivial wounds, I chose a rock for a resting-place, and considered the innumerable fragments of flinty stone that covered the entire hill-side. If color has aught to do with it, I was leaving behind me most tempting specimens of minerals. At almost every step I had been rolling down the hill crystals of many a hue, and dull-colored stone made beauti- ful by the green, blue, and crimson incrustations that covered them. Many a bit that I picked up and flung away was varied as the rainbow. But, beautiful as were all these, they paled to utter 156 In Touch with Nature. insignificance when brought in contact with the masses from the heart of the mountain. If one would know how magnificent a mineral may be, how it surpasses even the orchids among flowers, the butterflies among insects, or birds of paradise among birds, let him gather from the mouth of the great copper-mine fragments of the ore as they are ruthlessly dumped upon the ground. When malachite, azurite, and cuprite are seen as I saw them at Bisbee, then one can form some idea of Nature's perfected handiwork. If in the earth's unexplored regions there is awaiting man's com- ing some yet more magnificent exhibition than the play of sunlight upon clustered crystals, as I found them here, then man should have other senses whereby to appreciate it. Resuming my journey, I soon overtook my companions, and long before noon reached the summit. It was but a mass of loose, angular rocks, no larger than those that covered the mountain-side, nor more weather-beaten, although it is at such a spot that the clouds literally burst and spend their pent-up fury. This thought in mind, I was surprised to find, scattered between Round about Bisbee. 157 rock-masses, gray-green, brittle ferns, and one bright, ruddy flower, akin in appearance to our brilliant " painted cup" of the Jersey hills. How they could withstand the fury of the storms that rage thereabout, let some philosopher explain. Insignificant as was the vegetation here, it was equal to the task of holding desolation at bay, and no gloomy thoughts arose as we stood over- looking miles and miles of country. We were perched well aloft, surely, but as a mere speck overhead still floated the eagle that we had seen early in the day. It was a thrilling fancy that the eagle above us might be looking over the Pacific, and, with scarcely an effort, might turn eastward and be over our New Jersey home before we could reach the village at our feet. It was a merit of this day that rapid transit was the rule in all things, and we were never shocked by sudden transition from fancy to fact. From the soaring eagle to the broad-tailed humming-bird was a not unpleasant change, as I had never before seen a living species of this family except the familiar ruby-throat. It came and went, as such birds always do, without our knowledge of the direction 14 158 In Touch with Nature. it took, and promised to be quite uninteresting, until at last it spied our dog, and then its ire was excited. With an angry, bee-like whiz it darted to and fro, never actually touching the dog, but very loud in its threatenings as to the constantly- postponed next time. It seemed a more cowardly bird than the Eastern ruby-throat, which makes good its threats, and has been known to strike first and threaten afterwards. Fear of man seemed characteristic of a great deal of the animal life met with on the mountain, and I was not pre- pared to cope with this difficulty, having expected to find even the birds comparatively tame. Cer- tainly the creatures that still linger in these now treeless mountains are seldom molested, and yet they all were more difficult to approach than allied forms at home. I realized this when a shining- crested flycatcher, that, as I saw it, looked like a black cedar-bird, came within fifty feet, and would permit of no nearer approach. But, thanks to the clear air, where nothing obstructs the sound, and vision is surprisingly acute, I could both see and hear this curious bird with some satisfaction. Its song is very sweet, yet I did not hear the full Round about Bisbee. 159 range of its melody, as one does who meets the bird during the nesting season. As to the wrens, they were not so bold as the little, brown fellows at home ; and so through the whole list of ani- mated nature. Herein lay the one disappointing feature of my mountain-climb. Over-anxiety for my neck caused my thoughts to centre in my heels on the return, and I saw surprisingly little ; so consoled myself with the thought that what my first mountain failed to yield might be the special gift of an adjoining hill ; and so it proved. But to spend hours on a mountain and come back with but one poor weed was too much for the patience of the miners, and I was truly pitied. For once, if not oftener, they had found an un- questionable crank. Very likely. But, then, if a man is not mildly a crank in some one direction, is he not sure to be a nonentity in all ? A Rocky Ramble. IT* ROM the top of the highest peak, the adjoining mountains look much alike, but it will not do to climb one hill and then judge of the whole range. This may suffice for some purposes, as those of a physical geographer, but will never satisfy the whims of a rambler bent on close acquaintance with each hill-side's unconsidered trifles. It has been asked, What is the distinguishing whim of a professional rambler ? It is, I take it, to gather pleasure rather than profit from the world about him. He is supposed to be one free of all definiteness of purpose other than that mentioned. Whether some projecting rock is diorite or dolerite is to him of little moment, but whether it is dull or glistening, bare or covered, becomes a matter of importance. Upon it may depend the measure of his joy as he scans the 160 A Rocky Ramble. 161 landscape. How vividly I recall one long, bare ledge of pale-gray rock, capping the precipitous wall sf a deep ravine ! As at first seen, it was mere Titanic masonry, but soon I caught a glimpse of one trembling fern fluttering in the fitful breeze. The rocks were changed ; they were no longer grand by reason of their desolation, but glorious because of the little fern that clung to them. A fig for the name of the species ! That it grew at such a dizzy height and brightened the grim gray wall was fact enough for the rambler. It is some- times well not to be a botanist. Whether ignoble or not, I always yield to the temptations of aim- lessness. And now let us to the mountain : the hill is not high, but the path is very rough. Whether man was or was not once a creeping animal, it is well that at times he can go upon all-fours ; otherwise many a chance to see goodly sights would be lost to him. It was so to-day. Loose rocks could not have been better arranged to prevent our progress, there were three of us, and so our satisfaction was increased as we gained, from time to time, a promising outlook. But there were I 14* 1 62 In Touch with Nature. dangers that could not be overlooked. There is nothing funny in facing a rattlesnake, and to put your hand upon a centipede may stay farther climbing for that day. Even to have a tarantula comb your eyebrows is somewhat of a shock. None of these things happened, but the climb was by no means stupid ; and when a great bare rock was reached, whereon we rested, each was eager to narrate his own little adventure. He who first spoke uttered the opinion of all, that probably no one had ever been so foolhardy before as to climb this hill, and the pleasant feelings of the discoverer filled our silly breasts ; but only to receive a shock. A clatter as of rolling stones was heard. We looked down the hill, and there was a Mexican walking at his ease, his patient burro following. Conversation ceased and I turned my thoughts into new channels. These Mexican wood-gatherers and their little donkeys or burros did not prove vastly entertaining. They moved along with less animation than the ore-buckets on the tram-way, and recalled the sluggish " Gila monsters," that will wait a week for a rock to roll away rather than go round it. In one case the donkey proved A Rocky Ramble. 163 the more polite of the two, for my salutation, " Good-morning," was met by silence on the part of theonan, but the donkey's fifteen inches of ears waved gracefully as the animal passed. Still, sitting on the great flat rock, I watched the man and his donkey as they walked towards the woods above us. Their trained eyes made out a path to which we were blind, and the sole merit of the Mexican was his ease in stepping from stone to stone without pausing to look at the loose rocks before him. Soon he passed out of sight and out of mind, leaving us to the hill-side, which we had fondly supposed no others would be rash enough to visit. It is something to have neighbors, even if the mere knowledge of their existence meets every need. Except a solitary bird, at long intervals, or butterflies that we brushed from blooming cacti, there was no evidence of animal life upon this rugged hill-side ; but when we were quietly perched upon the roomy rock and made no pronounced demonstration, many a creature that had been startled by our strange appearance as we scram- bled upward, came one by one in view. It was 164 In Touch with Nature. the old story. We had been watched at every step, as is every noisy rambler in Eastern woods when he fancies himself alone. As an illustration : our presence was held not unsafe to them by a. pair of huge gray squirrels, after some consultation upon their part, and, while in full view, they warned every creature not to come too near, by barking as loudly and as lustily as a peevish ter- rier. It became tiresome at last, and I innocently threw a stone at them. Here my ignorance cropped out again. The stone fell so far short of the squirrels that they were not aware of my mur- derous design. They were quite a quarter of a mile away, perhaps farther, and yet their every movement was plainly seen, and I fancied I could hear their chattering, meant for themselves only. It is not strange, in such an atmosphere, that timid animals should be rarely seen. A man's approach would be signalled by his footsteps when almost a mile away, and every unfamiliar sound would put an animal on the alert. Certainly many a one could discriminate, too, between clumsy Easterners like ourselves and that machine-like Mexican that just passed. A Rocky Ramble. 165 It was here that I saw my first centipede, a shiny, brown creature, that rested in a crevice of the rock. N.It did not suggest " melancholy ferocity," I quote the " Encyclopaedia Britannica," and if possessed of such poisonous fangs, why should it be so cowardly? A slight movement on my part, after I had discovered it, caused it to disap- pear instantly. No animal, I take it, ever moved more rapidly, not even a humming-bird. Here is the puzzling feature of this uncanny beast. For long it had been resting in this sunny crevice, and had, of course, seen us, and may I add ? saw that we did not see it. If this startling suggestion is true, it ascribes a deal of wit to a centipede ; and the longer I take note of the creatures about me, the more I am inclined to exalt their mental status. We often see such actions on the part of birds and mammals, and, too, of snakes. They are swayed by conflicting emotions, curiosity and fear, and while the latter usually gets the upper hand in time, it is not always so. Why a centi- pede, several inches long, feared by all creatures, even by man, should be so extremely shy, is a difficult problem to solve. If they have wit 1 66 In Touch with Nature. enough to act as I hold did this one to-day, they need scarcely trouble themselves about possible enemies before an attack is made. There was more upon this hill to attract a bot- anist than upon those previously climbed. One sprawling, prickly weed was very common, and conspicuous by reason of its handsome blossoms. These were snowy white, with a deep golden cen- tre, and contrasted admirably with the light-green leaves of the plant. Again, there were tangled mats of vine-like growth, bearing numerous nar- row leaves, and many a huge trumpet-shaped flower, also purely white, but with a rich purple throat. These, with other less conspicuous bloom, relieved the monotony of bare rocks and brown earth ; but a far more striking feature was the growth of mistletoe on the mountain-oaks. I had long been familiar with this parasite on the gum- trees of Southern New Jersey, and in Kentucky, along the Ohio River, but nowhere does it grow in greater luxuriance than in this corner of Ari- zona. Nor does it seem to have the same blight- ing effect that marks its progress on our Eastern trees. Upon one oak, well down in the valley, I A Rocky Ramble. 167 counted eleven bunches, each as large as a bushel- basket, yet the tree showed no symptoms of decay. ^ Having rested long enough to forget our sev- eral aches and pains, it was without misgiving that the descent was undertaken ; but as the up- ward climb was laborious, it followed, in our fancy, that the downward progress would be very easy. Not a bit of it. There was no stone that did not threaten to roll as we touched it, and many carried out their threats at the most inop- portune moment. How quickly and how often I sat down ! And then, when well-nigh discouraged, we heard footsteps behind us, and, looking back- ward, saw that morose Mexican with his burro. How deftly they picked their way ; how stately the tread of that swarthy mountaineer ! He did not deign to glance at us; and even if we had been helpless, would doubtless have passed us by. But that little burro ! His ears alone were plainly visible, and by them we knew him. His burden made him not less polite, and again the long ears waved gracefully as he passed. That this animal could bear up under two great bundles of crooked 1 68 In Touch with Nature. sticks, each as large as the creature's body, and, withal, walk down a steep hill covered with loose stones, this was the most marvellous of the many strange sights I witnessed. But I was in part on the same errand, and strove to learn a lesson from this patient donkey. I followed closely at his heels, watching every movement. Unfortunately, I have but two legs and the donkey rejoiced in four, and that I should imitate successfully with two limbs the movements of a quadruped was not to be expected. How, when, where, and why I threw my legs about I cannot now recall, but at last my antics caused both the Mexican and his burro to halt, and I sat down upon a jagged rock utterly bewildered. After that it was a matter of careful climbing, with but here and there an occa- sional step upon some kindly level ledge; and so, without serious mishap, the valley road was reached, with, I trust, a proper feeling of thank- fulness. I have said, " without serious mishap," but this bears reference to my body only. I was still in distress. Into what strange shapes my clothes had been converted, and how freely the passing breeze swept through them ! Now that I A Rocky Ramble. 169 was upon level ground, I recalled that I had been stoutly shod at the outset; but now the soles of my^ shoes were as loose box-lids. Was it strange, as I entered the village, that many miners laughed ? An Arizonan Hill-side. jVlY many questions caused me to be set down as a " tender-foot" the moment I reached a certain mining-camp in Southern Arizona. Amusement or disgust was depicted upon the countenance of every miner that I questioned, and both, in one unhappy instance, when I asked if the San Pedro River was an irrigation ditch. This blunder de- monstrated that I had all to learn, and from that moment I pursued a course of quiet investigation. Of mining-camps in general nothing need here be said. Probably this particular one has no dis- tinctive feature. Let it suffice that the surround- ings, and not the camp, called me so far from home, and it was to them that I turned as soon as possible. Out of the village there was but one of two things for the rambler to do : to follow this or that tortuous valley, or climb to some one 170 An Arizonan Hill-side. 171 of the innumerable hills, as anything akin to a prairie was beyond easy walking-distance. I reached Bisbee at noon, July 8, and climbed a high hill early the next morning. There is a never-failing charm in turning into new paths ; to have opened to you a new vista ; to enter for the first time the bounds of a new terri- tory. Fatigue is set at defiance. One's old self slinks into the background. We are mentally born again. What though the region was here a des- ert, so long had it been since a refreshing rain had fallen. The oaks were brave of heart and held their leafy crowns aloft, cacti were in bloom, birds sang, butterflies flitted in the brilliant sunshine, and snow-white clouds floated from peak to peak of the distant mountains. At last I was in a wil- derness, with not a familiar object about me, and it was with honest pleasure that I handled rocks, plants, and many a living creature of which I knew not the name. It was sufficient merely to recognize their position in the grand scheme of organic nature. For long there had been no rain, and the first impression was that of wonder that so great a 1 72 In Touch with Nature. variety of animals should choose so arid a region, when capable of migrating to others more in- viting. Here were birds in abundance, nesting in scattered oaks, and finding abundant food-supply among the heated rocks and repellent cacti. It is true, I was told that the rainy season should have commenced before this, and that the birds simply anticipated the coming change ; but could they not have waited for it ? In the East we cer- tainly associate abundance of animal life with the constant presence of water, and never an upland field so teeming with creatures of every kind as the low-lying marshes with their ranker vegeta- tion. The river valleys within reach of these Arizonan hills have not much to commend them : still, that they were not over-crowded, and the hills deserted, was a surprise ; the more so that Professor Henshaw, our authority on the orni- thology of this region, states that this over-crowd- ing near water commonly occurs. However, here among the uplifted rocks were the birds and a goodly company of less prominent creatures, to which I turned again and again, notwithstanding the grandeur of the landscape spread before me. An Arizonan Hill-side. 173 The cactus-wren, because of its close kinship to the dear wrens of the homestead door-yard, but more y reason of its own merits, held me long, and it will ever be a mystery how this restless bird thridded the maze of spiny branches that baffled all my efforts to follow it. That it could dart through the tangled branches of a stag-horn cactus without a wound is simply miraculous, and do this, too, when pursued ; rushing with reckless haste from a supposed enemy. Possibly it was pricked now and then, but if its feathers were ever ruffled, not so its temper ; and often, when the fates seemed most against it, this bird would perch be- tween thorns of dangerous lengths and sing with that whole-souled ardor that should cause faint- hearted folk to blush. If ever a little foot-sore, and you long to return to the smoothened path- way of the village street, pray for the cactus-wren to find you out. Never a blue- devil so brave as to listen to that bird's song. There were other creatures on the hill-side that merit our attention, and I would that I had weeks instead of minutes to devote to them. Lizards and skinks are well-nigh countless ; but not, too, 15* 174 I n Touch with Nature. the snakes, which fact I deplored. It was not so long ago that the lively lizards in New Jersey pine barrens had given me much to do to gain some insight into their life-history, and now I recalled each time, place, and circumstance, as these same animals darted over the rocks and between the scattered cacti. The surroundings were not dis- similar : was there any peculiarity of habit ? I could detect none. The lizards were as swift, but still a little strategy enabled me to capture them with my hands, and they straightway became tame, as had proved the case in the East, while the wary skinks defied all my efforts to capture them, and even when badly wounded by bird-shot, bit me savagely, an Eastern experience also. Let him who will attempt to explain why these ani- mals, with essentially the same habits, and con- stantly associated, differ in this one respect of temper. In New Jersey the skink is a solitary animal, and lives in hollows of old trees, often twenty, thirty, or fifty feet from the ground, locations the common lizard seldom visits, which may or may not explain the difference of temper of the two animals ; but here, on this Arizonan An Arizonan Hill-side. 175 hill-side, the same rocks and cacti sheltered both. They basked upon the same sunlit surfaces, often in actual contact; they fed upon the same food, and took refuge in the same safe harbors when pursued ; but in every instance it held good that the lizard was amiable and the skink otherwise. I fancied a score of reasons for this while on the spot, but have no foundation upon which to rest any one of them, even for superficial investigation. A merit of such a stroll as this of to-day is that one must keep moving. To sit long in the same spot where rocks are rugged and loose wearies far more quickly than a constant change of position, and with this change is endless novelty. It needed but half a turn of the head to catch winning glimpses of a new world From the wriggling centipede at my feet, which delighted me by reason of its graceful movements, to some distant moun- tain, wrapped in rosy clouds, was a bold leap, but one that the mountain rambler has constantly to make. However vividly an object impressed itself upon me, be it one at hand or many a mile away, I was never so occupied as to be too late for something new; and why regret such aimless 176 In Touch with Nature. wandering ? If I learned little, I enjoyed much, and these are vacation days. But does one learn so little when method is left in the lurch ? There is at such a time a deal of unconscious cerebra- tion, and the most trivial incident of a mountain, tramp, when recalled, stands out in boldest out- line and has far more significance than we sup- posed. I shall not need to turn to the photo- graphs that my companions took to see the landscapes that were spread out before me, and I doubt not but that in years to come, when wan- dering about the fields at home, I will have their familiar birds and plants bring vividly before me incident after incident that at the time made but the faintest impression upon me. It has proved so heretofore, and I look for its repetition in the future. We learn much, if we but desire to learn, without making further effort. It adds a bright leaf to memory's volume to walk over a mountain. The day is well advanced, and what of the landscape that I have so frequently mentioned ? Who shall dare describe it ? If it needs a lifetime to fathom the secrets of a single hill, what can be said, after a few hours, of scores of mountains An Arizonan Hill-side. 177 clustered about you ? It is well to be passive rather than active when among them, and accept what they offer rather than be importunate. One can seldom anticipate their lesson of the day, but it is never one not worth the learning. When I gazed at their wrinkled fronts, deaf to the birds and blind to the flowers about me, the initial thought was that of their unchangeableness. Nature is here at rest, if anywhere. Peak after peak, ridge beyond ridge, valley after valley ; a troubled ocean, motionless. But such a thought was scarcely crystallized before it dissolved. A cloud passed betwixt the sun and the hills, and every one was set in motion. What mighty magic lurked in that single shadow ! As well, now, try to catch the contour of a troubled wave as single out one of the hundred hills before me. What but the mo- ment before typified eternal rest was now the embodiment of the poetry of motion. Such mas- sive clouds, hung in so blue a sky, and casting such shadows, are common to few places, and here their glory is supreme. It is little wonder, then, that the mountains were thrilled by that shadow's gentle touch. In a Sea-side Forest. IT too often happens in these latter days that a suggestive name proves sadly disappointing. We look in vain for the attractive features the mind pictured, and have good cause to criticise the un- bridled imagination of forerunning visitors. For- tunately, a recent ramble had no such painful ending. I had heard of a wild-wood, and since have found it. Clustered trees, though there be many, do not of themselves make a forest. Many a woodland tract is as uniform as a cornfield, or, at best, but indefinite duplication of the trees along a village street. If the rambler merely seeks the shade, then one tree is sufficient, and perhaps an um- brella is even an improvement, seeing we can plant it where we choose. But now I had found a wild- wood in the fullest sense of that suggestive phrase. 178 In a Sea-side Forest. 179 Here variety ruled, and only the choicest of Na- ture's handiwork had foothold. Think of it! Century^ after century Nature had had full sway, and turned out a finished piece of work. Every sense is charmed ; eye, ear, and nose are alike regaled ; the sense of touch delighted. Perfect trees to look upon ; the birds' songs and the moan- ing of the sea to hear ; the bloom of a thousand roses to smell ; the carpeted sand to lie upon. Yet, where all was nearing perfection, there stood out one grand feature overtopping all else, scores of magnificent hollies. I had seen many of these trees before, but never where they gave a distinct character to the woods. Elsewhere they occur in clumps of three or four, or perhaps a dozen, but here, on an island by the sea, there are hundreds. One that I measured was sixty-eight inches in circumference and forty feet high. The pale-gray trunk was well mottled with curious black lichen, and among the branches drooped long tresses of beard-like lichen. The pathless wood about it was a most fit surrounding, the abundant birds its appropriate comrades, the murmur of the sea the music to which its branches gently swayed. To 180 In Touch with Nature. be able to throw oneself on a moss-carpeted sand dune and gaze upward at such a tree is abundant recompense for miles of weary walking. But this little nook was not the whole wild- wood, and every tree was worthy of description. I would that I could write the history of a tree : the stories of these hollies would pass for fairy tales. Irregularities in tree-growth are nowhere un- usual features of a forest, but here the hollies are, or have been, on the lookout to break away from all restraint and become as wayward as pos- sible. Here is one that has twirled about until now the trunk is a gigantic corkscrew ; and not far off, another and larger tree has branched some ten feet from the ground, and then the two main divisions of the trunk have been reunited. A modification of this, where a stout limb has re- turned to the parent stem and re-entered, making "jug-handles," is a common occurrence, and, more marvellous still, a venerable cedar has some of its outreaching branches passing not merely into, but entirely through huge hollies that stand near by. Evidently the cedar here is the older tree and the In a Sea-side Forest. 181 hollies have grown around the now imprisoned branches. And, as if not content with such irregularities as these, other hollies have assumed even animal-like shapes; the resemblance in one instance to an elephant's head and trunk being very marked. Even the stately and proper-grown hollies have their trunks incased in strangely wrinkled barks, suggestive of a plastic mass that has suddenly hardened. Why all this irregularity I leave to others. There was no patent explanation for him who ran to read, and I was puzzled at the outset to know in what direction to commence guessing. This is an entertainment, when idling in the woods, the rambler should not despise. Our best outings are when we wear other head-gear than a thinking-cap. So far as the crooked hollies are concerned, it will be time enough next winter to muse over the conclusions of the botanist. Equally startling in such wonderland is it to see a thrifty blueberry bush growing from the trunk of a tree, so high in the air that you need a ladder to reach it. This bush annually bears a full crop of excellent fruit. That I am at last in a bit of 16 1 82 In Touch with Nature. Jersey's primeval forest there is little doubt. Had an elk darted by, or a mastodon screamed, it would hardly have been surprising. This not seriously, of course ; but how promptly the present vanishes in such a wood ; how vividly the past is pictured before us ! Everywhere towering trees bearing evidence of age, and early in the day I found my- self face to face with a huge cedar, dating back at least to the Norsemen, who it is thought reached America, if not the New England coast. Here was a tree that for centuries the Indians had known as a landmark. It is a mistake to suppose that old trees do not remain in almost every neighborhood, for an old tree is not of necessity a big one. A dwarf will wrinkle and crook as surely as a giant. In many a swamp there are gnarly hornbeams that date back at least two centuries, and grape-vines are known that are even older. It is common to consider as old every object that has rounded out a single century, but this is nothing uncommon in tree-growths, and even some shrubs. Many a wild growth, if undisturbed, becomes practically permanent, and I am positive any number of in- In a Sea-side Forest. 183 significant growths in the undrained swamps and plough-defying meadows date back to Penn's treaty ,%and even earlier. There is a familiar lilac hedge, or part of it, within the bounds of my ordinary rambles, planted by my grandfather in 1 804, and so, in a dozen years, will be a hundred years old; but it looks nothing different from similar hedges planted fifty years ago. The old cedar in the lane was but eighteen inches in diameter, and I have documentary evidence that it was a familiar landmark much more than a cen- tury ago. A thunderbolt or tornado recently shivered the old tree beyond recognition, literally reduced it to splinters, and I found that the heart was very much decayed. There was no possibility of determining the age by counting the rings of growth shown in a cross section, and so I have but the poor satisfaction of merely conjecturing. At one place a narrow bit of the outer edge was smooth, and I counted forty-eight rings, one for each year of my life, and these had added but little to the tree's girth. But here, at Wildwood Beach, is a cedar almost twelve feet in circumference, considerably more 184 In Touch with Nature. than double that of the cedar in the lane. There is no reason to consider that its growth has been forced by peculiarly favorable conditions. It is simply a magnificent example of what a tree may become if a fair chance is shown it. I have suggested that the tree may be nearly or quite one thousand years old, and I believe it. Peter Kalm, when wandering in the Jersey wilderness in 1749, noticed the cedars carefully, and mentions the fact of " very slow growth ; for a stem thirteen inches and a quarter in diameter had one hundred and eighty-eight rings, or annual circles, and another, eighteen inches in diameter, had at least two hun- dred and fifty, for a great number of the rings were so fine that they could not be counted." Of course, much of the beauty of this huge, lone, sea-side cedar is lost in being so hemmed in by other growths, and it is a startling fact that, if the rambler was not very open-eyed, he might pass it by unheeded. Think of what wealth of wonders are in every wood, and that so few persons find them : what a staggering array of marvels in a forest laid bare ! I would that Kalm, whom I have just quoted, In a Sea-side Forest. 185 had taken in the Jersey coast as well as Jersey inland. He would have found more to praise and less tb criticise. His remark, "the rattlesnakes, horned snakes, red-bellied, green, and other poison- ous snakes . . . are in great plenty here," would never have been written of the coast, and, in truth, did not apply to the Delaware valley, where he wrote the above. In all probability rattlers were never very numerous, the horned snake is a myth, and all others harmless. And to all these demerits of dear Jersey, Kalm adds another: " To these I must add," he writes, " the wood-lice, with which the forests are so pestered that it is impossible to pass through a bush without having a whole army of them on your clothes, or to sit down, though the place be ever so pleasant." While in much, to my mind, the world has moved backward, it has improved in this. I have passed through many bushes, and sat down often, but never with so inconvenient a result. Why this luxuriant vegetation on a sandy island by the sea ? The soil suggests barrenness only. Except the faint traces of decayed vegetation, it is a matter of pure white sand. It is known that 1 6* 1 86 In Touch with Nature. the land along the Jersey coast is sinking, and we naturally look for a stratum of loam, once well above but now below or at the level of the sea. This, in our fancy, we hold necessary for timber growth ; but if it is here at all, these trees' roots have not reached it. It is strange that such huge growths can find safe anchorage in these light and shifting sands. They have found some strength in union and close companionship, it is true ; but, though they are built on a sandy foundation, the storms have not prevailed to their detriment even. Whence the trees' nourishment? Largely from the atmosphere: but why speculate? Suffice it to say, that, were we to take these same trees and shrubs inland and set them in pure silica, though Paul planted and Apollos watered never so carefully, there would be no increase. The undergrowth, too, is everywhere equally luxuriant and gives a semi-tropical appearance to the landscape, this feature being emphasized by the vigor of vine growths that bind together the tallest trees and unite many an oak, cedar, and holly standing scores of feet apart. We are forced to smile nowadays when we read the glowing In a Sea-side Forest. 187 accounts of America's earliest visitors, and wonder how it was possible that they should have been so deceived ; but the truth dawns upon me when I recall these early writers and see the wondrous conditions obtaining on this sea- side island. The least that can be truthfully said is rather a descrip- tion of Florida than of New Jersey, and would give no true idea of the State as a whole. This little island, I take it, is a relic of old New Jersey : this forest a living fragment of that now buried one, not far away, which has " given rise to a singular industry, the literal mining of timber. At several points . . . enormous quantities of white cedar, liquidambar, and magnolia logs, sound and fit for use, are found submerged in the salt marshes, sometimes so near the surface that roots and branches protrude, and again deeply covered with smooth meadow sod. Many of the trees overthrown and buried were forest giants. In the great cedar swamp . . . the logs reach a diameter of four, five, and even seven feet, and average between two and three feet in thickness." In one case, one thousand and eighty rings of annual growth have been counted ; and under this In Touch with Nature. huge stump was discovered a prostrate tree, which had fallen and been buried before the larger one had sprouted. This lower-lying log was deter- mined to be fully five hundred years old. Here, then, is evidence of fifteen centuries that have elapsed, and forests even before then had grown, flourished,, and decayed. It is a series of surprises to dig into such strange earth. Think of passing through an underground cedar swamp and coming upon magnolias and sweet-gum still deeper down ! What if there were tongues in such trees ? Here is a spot whereat a poet might dwell to his and the world's advantage. Not all the grandeur of the world centres in the sea or rests upon a moun- tain. There are other beauties than those of a spreading landscape or a rocky gorge ; a strange, peculiar beauty, worthy of a poet, clings to every trunk and broken branch of this sunken sea-side forest. When we consider that for miles at sea, as we stand upon the present beach, we are looking upon waters that cover what was once, and not so very long ago, dry and habitable land, we can better realize the one-time conditions of this region when In a Sea-side Forest. 189 primitive man threaded the mazes of the primeval forest. Dr. Lockwood has told us of masses of peat