BANCROFT LIBRARY THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA [SUPPLEMENT TO THE FRIEND.] wrong gwar f apers: BY REV. SAMUEL C. DAMON. " The immense Pacific smiles Round ten thousand little isles, Haunts of violence and wiles. " But the powers of darkness yreldv For the Cross is in the field, And the light of life reveal'd.". MOMTGOMERV, 1826. HONOLULU : PRINTED FOR THE HAWAIIAN MISSIONARY SOCIETY 1861. "The isles shall wait for His law." ISAIAH xlii : 4. "The isles shall wait upon Me." ISAIAH li : 5. ' Surely the isles shall wait for Me." ISAIAH Ix : 9. " Go ye into all the world and preach the Gospel to every living creature." MARK xvi : 15. " Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of the world. Amen.*' MATTHEW xxviii : 20. " I feel confident that, regarded as a mere money investment, the very best invest- ment this country [England] can make, is to send out in advance of either colonists or merchants, Missionaries, who may prepare the way for those who are to follow." SIR G. GREY, Governor of New Zealand. " One thing is consummated and settled in my mind, and that is, a full and de- lightful conviction that the cause of Missions has never held too high a place in my estimation, or engaged too large a share of my attention. This is saying nothing, and less than nothing. It transcends immeasurably transcends the highest estima- tion of every created mind.' 9 REV. DR. WORCESTER, First Sec'ry A, B. C. F. M., 1821. "It is our duty to visit surrounding islands. A missionary was never designed by Jesus Christ, to gather a congregation of a hundred or two natives, and sit down at his ease, as contented as if every sinner was converted, while thousands around him, and but a few miles off, aie eating each other's flesh, and drinking each other's blood, living and dying without the Gospel. For my own part I cannot content myself within the narrow limits of a single reef; and, if means are not afforded, a continent would he infinitely preferable; for there, if you cannot ride, you can walk; but to these isolated islands a ship must carry you. Did you know the state of the surround- ing islands, how ripe they are for the reception of the Gospel, you would sell the very gods out of your museum, if it were necessary, to carry the glad tidings of salvatioa to those now sitting in darkness." REV. Jonx WILLIAMS, (Martyr of Erumanga,) to the Directors of London Missionary Society, 1823. " Come, Lord, and added to thy many crowns, Receive yet one, the crown of all the earth, Thou, who alone art worthy." COWPER. BY H. M. WHITNEY, COMMERCIAL ADYERTISKR OFF1CS. GLIMPSES AND GLANCES AT THE SIG-HTS, SCENES AND PEOPLE OF MICRONESIA. I. PREFATORY. A FEW glimpses and glances with an observing pair of eyes, will afford a better idea of a place and people than books of travels and voyages written by the most graphic pen. All are not inclined to journey abroad, or if inclined, do not enjoy the privilege of going, hence they must obtain their knowledge of foreign lands, by reading or conversation with those who have seen those lands and communities beyond the seas. Having enjoyed a favorable opportunity for cruising among the islands of Micronesia and catching " glimpses and glances at the sights, scenes and people " of that remote and unfrequented re- gion upon our globe, we propose furnishing our readers with a series of descriptive sketches, or rather extracts from " our log," while on board the Morning Star, during her fifth and last trip to the westward. The nature of our cruise would not allow time for deep research into the origin of the inhabitants, or for historical investigations, although we have not neglected to peruse such publications as relate to those parts of the Pacific, including volumes of former voyages, the journals of missionaries, and books of natural science. We have read with profit that portion of the U. S. Exploring Expedition, by Lieut. Wilkes, relating to the Gilbert or Kingsmill Islands, the voyages of the re- nowned Kotzebue, to the Radack Chain of the Marshall Islands, and several other works relating to Micronesia; also Darwin's Voyage of a Naturalist, and Maury's Physical Geography of the Sea. The most readable and reliable sources of information are the Morning Star, or History of the Children's Missionary Vessel, by Mrs. Jane S. Warren, of Boston, and the Lectures of Rev. L. H. Gulick, M. D., published in the Polynesian. We began, however, to treasure up stores of knowl- edge respecting Micronesia, many years ago, as we sat in our sanctum, and conversed with shipmasters and sailors, who had visited those comparatively unknown regions. We were accustomed to do this long before the establishment of the Micronesian Mission. Since the mission was commenced, ia 1852, we have maintained a frequent cor- respondence with all the missionaries, having been permitted the privilege of a personal acquaintance with them, while they were en route from the United States to their distant and lonely stations upon Kusaie, Ponapi, Apaiang and Ebon. It has long been our cherished desire to visit them, and behold the changes there in progress. Cir- cumstances have not allowed us to carry out this desire until the sailing of the Morning Star upon her last trip, bound thither with the annual supplies for the mission-families. While making our preparations to leave, the Hawaiian Missionary Society conferred upon us the honor of acting as their Delegate. When starting upon our cruise, the prospect of a change of scene, and rest from the long continued pressure of professional duties, was most refreshing to our jaded spirits. We longed for rest and mental repose ; the idea of enjoying rest and repose amid the unvisited scenes of Micronesia, served to gild the future with dreamy fancies which we feared could not be realized. In imagination, we pictured many a pleasant day's sail along the shores of islands decked in the rich and gorgeous drapery of the tropics, and over lagoons where " Life, in rare and beautiful form, Is sporting amid those bowers of stone." We anticipated much of the purest enjoyment from the friendly greeting and familiar converse with the missionary brethren. Disap- pointment has not been our lot. The participation has been more than was the anticipation. The bright fancies of the imagination have been realized. If now our descriptions of the Micronesian Islands appear tame and common place, the reason will be that our pen has tailed to give full expression to our ideas, and experiences, for we have seen enough, and experienced enough to fill volumes with far more entertaining sketches than we are able to produce. But we hope not altogether to fail in our attempts, inasmuch as we merely propose to sketch " glimpses and glances at the sights, scenes and people of Micronesia." II. OUTLINE OF OUR CRUISE. Leaving Honolulu, Saturday May llth, at one o'clock P. M., the Morning Star pursued a southwesterly course, running before the northeast trade winds. On crossing the meridian, we changed our Sabbath to correspond with that of the missionaries of Micronesia. No incident of importance occurred during our passage to Apaiang, or Charlotte Island, one of the Gilbert or Kingsmill Islands, lying in 2 North latitude and 173 East longitude. We reached the-island, Monday morning, May 26th, fifteen days after sailing from Honolulu. We were greeted with a most cordial welcome from the Kev. Mr. Bingham, before our vessel came to anchor in the smooth waters of the lagoon of Apaiang, for this island is one of the numerous coral islands, forming the Gilbert Group. We remained at anchor for three days at Apaiang, when we started for the neighboring Island of Tarawa, taking with us Mr. and Mrs. Bing- ham, as passengers, who proposed to visit their missionary associates, Messrs. Mahoe and Haina, on Tarawa. One day's sail brought us to a safe anchorage in the lagoon of Tarawa. Finding the mission families in health, and usefully occupied, we spent three days, including a Sabbath, at this station, when we squared away for the Marshall Islands, touching on our passage to leave Mr. and Mrs. Bingham at their island-home. Running in a northwesterly direction, after a quick passage of only two days, we reached Boston or CovelPs Island, as it is known upon the charts of navigators, but now called Ebon by the missionaries, who have followed the native authority. This kland lies 4 39 N., and 168 50 E. At this island we spent four days including a Sabbath when we sailed for Strong's Island, Ualan, or Kusaie, lying in 5 19 N., and 163 E. L. Having light winds we were six days making the passage, hence did not land on that Island, until early Sabbath morning, June 15. On Strong's Island, we were weather-bound for five days, being unable to communicate with our vessel, which was lying "off and on." Having landed our supplies, and leaving the mission family of Mr. Snow, in health, we sailed for Ascension, or Ponapi, lying in 6 48 N., and 158 19 E. We entered what is called the Middle Harbor, lying midway between the two Mission Stations of Kiti and Shalong. Having spent eleven days there, at anchor, and visiting various lo- calities upon the island, we started upon our home-passage, which we made in just forty days, having been compelled by adverse winds to run as far north as the thirty-sixth degree of latitude. During our homeward passage, we experienced a severe gale on the 22d of July, in Latitude 34 30, and Longitude 166 E. The vessel was " hove to " about eighteen hours. The gale was most se- vere between 10 and 12 o'clock at night, when very serious fears were entertained for our safety. Our danger was imminent. At the time we were a thousand miles from the nearest land, perhaps nearer Japan than any other habitable part of the globe. By the merciful in- terposition of God, we were finally permitted to conclude our voyage in safety, reaching Honolulu, Tuesday, August 13th, and having been, absent just ninety-three days : Sailed from Honolulu, May llth. Passage to Apaiang 15 days. Kemain at " - - 3 " Passage to Tarawa. - - - - 1 " Remain at " - - 3 " Passage to Ebon, - - - 3 " Kemain at " - - 4 " Passage to Kusaie, - - - 6 " Remain at " 5 " Passage to Ponapi, - - - 2 " Remain at " - - - - 11 " Passage to Honolulu, 40 " Total, - 93 days During that period, our anchor was dropped six times, twice at Apai- ang, once at Tarawa, once at Ebon, once at Kusaie, and once at Ponapi. We sailed, in round numbers, eight thousand miles, running as far south as 2 N., and as far N. as 36 , and as far west as 158 E. L. thus our cruise forms nearly an oblong parallelogram upon the chart. Deduct- ing twenty-six days that we were lying in port, from ninety-three that we were absent, will leave sixty-seven sailing-days, hence, we averaged about 120 miles each sailing-day. Our best day's run was 230 miles, and our poorest three miles, when we were nearly becalmed on our passage from Ebon to Kusaie. The pleasure of our cruise, and the benefit derived from the voyage, we attribute, in no small degree, to the excellent management of Capt. Gelett,the efficiency of his officers, Mr. Mosher and Mr. Johns, and the promptitude and obedience of the seamen, six of whom were Hawaiians, and the remainder, Gabriel Holmes and William Gelett, were Ameri- cans. Our steward, cabin-boy and cook, are deserving of many thanks. On our return passage, .the cabin was filled with passengers, including Mrs. Sturges and daughter, Mrs. Doane and two children, Mr. and Mrs. Roberts and two children, Mrs. Gelett, Mr. Ashmead, Masters C. Corgett, and Edward Damon. III. GILBERT OR KINGSMILL ISLANDERS, MEMBERS OF THE POLYNESIAN FAMILY. Proofs are abundant that the inhabitants of these islands belong to the same race as those of the Hawaiian, Marquesan, Tahitian and Samoan Islands. In appearance, they most strikingly resemble Ha- wanans. There is evidently a mixture of people coming from differ- ent parts of Polynesia. Some strikingly resemble the Samoans, or Navigator Islanders. Not only does their appearance, cast of counte- nance, form of body, color of hair, eyes, teeth, and other character- istics indicate their origin to be the same, but also their language and many of their customs and practices. In conversing with the native missionaries, we asked them, if they found any words which were the same as those used by Hawaiian?. They replied that they did. In a few moments, Kanoa, Mr. Bingham's associate on Apaiang, furnished us the following list : English, Hawaiian. Gilbert. Fowl, Moa, Moa, Forbid, Kabu, Tabu, Woman, Wahine, Aine, Man, Kanaka, Aomata, Canoe, Waa, Wa, Fire, Ahi, Ai, Red, Ulaula, Uraura, Big Fish, Ulua, Urua, Cocoanut, Niu, Ni, Eye, Maka, Mata. This list, we are confident, might be extended so as to embrace hun- dreds of words. We hope as our missionaries become intimately ac- quainted with the language, that they will devote some attention to this interesting subject. We noticed the natives of Apaiang kindling fire, by rubbing two sticks together, just as we have witnessed Hawaiians do the same thing. The natives of Hawaii and Apaiang, carry burdens on a pole in a sim- ilar manner. The more familiarly we become acquainted with this people, the more were we impressed with their striking resemblance to Hawaiians, although, as we shall show, many of their customs and practices are strikingly at variance and dissimilar to what is to be found in other parts of Polynesia. It has been asserted by some writers that the system of tabu did not exist among the Gilbert Islanders. Such a statement is remarka- bly at variance with facts. The tabus of this people are as marked as those of other branches of the Polynesian family. Sabbath morning, June 1, while the people were assembling, for public worship in one of the villages in Tarawa, Mr. Bingham invited the children, who were occupying a house adjoining the council house. They could not enter the council, while they were undergoing the whitening process, because it was tabu. It was tabu for women to sit down upon the mast of a canoe, when it lay upon the ground. It was tabu for boys, whose heads had been shaved, and over whom certain incantations had been performed, to eat certain parts of the meat of the cocoanut, and also certain kinds of fish. These boys were required to abstain, supposing it would make them brave in war. Mr. Bingham related an incident connected with one of the council houses in Apaiang, showing that certain women had broken tabu by entering it. The house was purified and cleansed, by offerings. IV. COUNCIL HOUSES. The existence of what have been styled council houses, forms a most striking peculiarity in the political and social organization of society among the inhabitants of the Gilbert Islands. A council house is to b found in every village. We visited three villages upon Apaiang, and seven villages upon Tarawa, and in every village these houses existed. They are built after the same general style of house-building among those islanders, although larger and more substantial than common dwellings. The uses are various to which these houses are devoted. An Englishman residing upon Tarawa called them houses of parlia- ment. An American would style them, perhaps, house of represent- atives or court houses. When subjects of a political, civil or criminal nature are to be discussed, the people hurry, en masse, to the council house. When one king would declare war against another, he sum- mons his subjects to these places. There questions are discussed. The king sits as president of the council. His chiefs and the landholders express their minds. He quietly listens until all have finished 4 , when he will make known his opinion, and that decides the question, pro or con. No vote is taken. If a crime has been committed, the people assemble at the council house to hear what the king shall decide in regard to the punishment of the criminal. Death is the most common penalty for theft and adul- tery. This is the case when the offender is a man of low rank ; but if a personage of importance, then he is fined by taking away his lands. The council houses are the hula or dance houses. For this purpose they are brought into frequent use. Companies of strolling and abani doned women traverse the islands, traveling from village to village for the entertainment of "lewd fellows of the baser sort." The dances are performed' in the night, and are attended with those scenes of midnight revelry, debauchery and licentiousness, which degrade and debase the people. Married women are not allowed to be present. Would that the same remark might be made with reference to their husbands ! It is to be hoped that these council houses will hereafter be devoted to better and holier purposes. Already many of them have been used as chapels or houses of Divine worship. When the missionaries are upon their tours, and would gather the people to hear the preaching of the Gospel, the council houses are uniformly the places of resort. We attended public worship three times on the Sabbath spent upon Tarawa, and each time the services were there held. On one occasion we entered the village before our companions had arrived. The little chil- dren led the way to the council house, where the meeting was held. V. GOVERNMENT OF THE GILBERT ISLANDS. Each island of the group is under a separate and independent king. He is the head chief of the island, although there are many other chiefs. The inhabitants appear to be divided into four classes or grades, viz : 1. King. 2. Chiefs. 3. Landholders, and 4. Slaves. The position of the king is peculiar, for while acknowledged as sovereign, yet he receives no tribute or taxes. He rules, in some respects, with the will of a tyrant or despot, yet in others he appears destitute of all authority. He does not maintain any royal state, or keep a guard. The people appear to have but very little respect for their kings, by no means approaching to that obsequious and servile demeanor which is exacted by the ruling sovereign in some other parts of Polynesia. THE" CHIEFS Exercise authority in their respective villages, and among their own people. THE LANDHOLDERS Comprise the great body of the people. All the land is owned by some one. The long and narrow islands are divided and sub-divided into sections, the lines running from the lagoon to the ocean outside. They are very tenacious of their lands; a man is esteemed and holds sway according to the amount of land which he possesses, and the number of cocoanut trees thereon. THE SLAVES. Slavery exists in a mild form. The slave is usually a captive taken in war. The master exacts labor. The slave is a domes- tic servant. The master employs him in collecting cocoanuts, pandanus fruit or fishing. The political affairs of the islands are far from being in a settled state. Wars are frequent. The people upon one island as, for example, the people upon Tarawa are ever ready to wage war with those upon Apaiang. So the chiefs are ever ready to plot for the overthrow of the king. So far as we were able to judge of the present political affairs of the group, they very much resemble the condition of things on the Sand- wich Islands previous to the conquest by Kamehameha I. It would doubtless now prove an incalculable blessing if the whole group was placed under some powerful dynasty. VI. ROYAL FAMILY OF TARAWA. Tentebau is really the sovereign of this island, although his grandson, Tekourabi, is the acting king. Tentebau is a very old man, probably between eighty and ninety years of age. He has a very numerous progeny. He has seven children, (including five sons and two daugh- ters,) twenty-three grandchildren, twenty-one great-grandchildren, and 10 two great-great-grandchildren. Should the old man live many more years, at the average increase upon Tarawa, his descendants will become very numerous. His family is married and intermarried in every village. The old man has been a famous warrior. His body now bears the scars and marks of many a fierce encounter with his enemies. He says that he has been engaged in nineteen battles. The expression of his countenance very much resembles the portrait of Kamehameha I., hanging in the palace at Honolulu. Tentaberanau, the son of the old king, would naturally be the reign- ing sovereign, but in consequence of his total blindness, he has resigned in favor of his son Tekourabi, mentioned below. This is a singular state of things. One person too old to rule, and another willing to resign because totally blind. This blindness is the result of a wound received in battle. Tekourabi, the ruling king, is about thirty years of age. In personal appearance, large and fleshy, yet apparently a man of great strength. He has but one wife, and several children. In his habits and manner of life, he is a thorough Tarawan, giving himself up to pleasure and the rollicking habits of a " fast man," yet he is a stern ruler when he takes hold of the reins of government ; the life of a subject is of but small account at such times. The following instance indicates the manner of administering justice in Tarawa. When Mahoe and Haina were sta- tioned there nine months ago, the king promised his protection. The missionaries suffered from thieves. The king warned the people to beware, but a theft was again committed. The thief was detected, and the king, with his own hand, put the man to death much to the regret of the missionaries, but without their knowledge. This summary method has put a stop to all annoyances of this kind, so that now the missionaries are living in the utmost personal security. Should any of our readers be disposed to censure the penal code as administered by the king of Tarawa, let it be borne in mind that not a century has passed away since an English Judge declared, " If you im- prison at home, the criminal is soon thrown back upon you, hardened in guilt. If you transport, you corrupt infant societies, you sow the seeds of atrocious crimes over the habitable globe. There is no regenerating a felon in this life. And, for his own sake, as well as for the sake of society, 1 think it better to hang?' Those were days when the English penal code made deer-killing, sheep-stealing, cattle-maiming and tree- destroying, capital crimes. It was our pleasure to see four generations of the royal family of Tarawa present at divine service on the morning of the Sabbath, June 1, when the Kev. Mr. Bingham improved the occasion to speak of the sorrow of the missionaries, that a man should have been put to death for theft, and informed the king that a severe fine, or some other punishment, would be preferable. 11 vn. WHAT ARE THE PROSPECTS OF THE MISSION UPON THE GILBERT ISLANDS? We answer unhesitatingly in that good old Saxon word, good. A good beginning has been made. There has a most favorable impression gone abroad. The Rev. Mr. Bingham, assisted by Hawaiian Mission- aries, has been laboring for years upon Apaiang. We will now en- deavor to state what they have accomplished. They have acquired a correct knowledge of the language. Small portions of the New Tes- tament have been printed in that tongue. Mr. Bingham hopes to have ready for the press at the end of another year, the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke, John and the Book of Acts. A small collection of hymns has also been printed. Some of these are original, and were written by Mr. and Mrs. B., while others are translations of several English hymns, familiar to all, viz : " From Greenland's Icy Mountains," &c. " There is a happy land," &c. " I love to steal awhile away," &c. " Mysterious Sweetness sits enthroned," &c. " When thou, my righteous Judge," &c. " Guide me, thou Great Jehovah," &c> Some primary reading books, have also been prepared. At the station, Mrs. B. and the wife of Kanoa, have each been en- gaged in teaching a week-day school. Twenty-four pupils have been taught to read, and received much elementary instruction in geography, and other useful branches. It was our privilege to attend an examina- tion of these pupils. The amount of Scriptural knowledge which they had acquired was truly gratifying. Several of Mrs. B.'s pupils would answer questions equal to the advanced classes in the very best Sab- bath Schools of Christain lands. It was our privilege to examine ijer pupils, as well as those taught by Kanoa's wife, and the wives of the Hawaiian Missionaries on Tarawa. Olivia, the wife of Mahoe, on Tarawa, has done herself great credit. Although she has been at that station but nine months, still she has formed a promising class of pu- pils. It was a pleasant sight to see Olivia, a pupil of Miss Ogden, thus engaged as a most efficient missionary among the poor and de- graded people of Tarawa. The wife of Haina, the other missionary, is a most worthy and exemplary Christian woman, faithfully occupied in her appropriate missionary work. No where has it ever been our privilege to witness three Hawaiian families (Kanoa's, Haina's and Mahoe's) which were better conducted, or more exemplary. They all have children. We think such families cannot but exert a good salu- tary influence among a heathen people. Would that every island of the Gilbert Group had such mission families living among them. The work at Mr. Bingham's Station, on Apaiang, has assumed a most interesting aspect. Several give the most gratifying evidence that they are truly converted souls. Two have been baptized. One of 12 these is a remarkable youth, of about sixteen years of age. He has been a member of Mr. B's family about one year, and is actively en- gaged with Mr. B. in the work of translation. The assistance which herenders is vastly important. After they had collected about two thousand words of the language, Mr. B. offered this young man one dollar a hundred for additional words. He had already gathered about six hundred. In the work of translation he goes over with Mr. B., word by word of the New Testament. Mrs. B. too lends her aid, and when the translation is completed, then she will prepare a neat and beautiful copy for the press. If there be a sight on earth, which we may sup- pose would arrest the attention of the Apocalyptic Angel, flying through the midst of heaven, having the everlasting gospel to preach, it must be that group of translators upon the lone Island of Apaiang. If it were in our power, we should delight to transfer the living picture to the canvas, with the genius and skill of an Italian painter. Among the candidates who are affording pleasing evidences that they will ere long become united with the church of Christ, are the King and Queen of Apaiang. They were both at the Wednesday evening prayer-meeting, May 28th. It was our privilege to unite with those heathen converts in prayer, led by the King. At the close of the meet- ing, the additional privilege was afforded of uniting in the celebration of the Lord's Supper. Could the friends of missions have been pres- ent in that assembly, I think they would have agreed with us in the remark, that a good work had commenced upon Apaiang that a good beginning had been made among the inhabitants of the Gilbert Islands, and that there was a reasonable prospect that the good work would progress. We entertain no manner of doubt upon this subject, provided the work of missions is vigorously prosecuted. VIII. THE REV. MR. BINGHAM'S RETURN TO HONOLULU. On the arrival of the Rev. Mr. Bingham, Jr., at Honolulu, in 1857> several of the chiefs who had long been intimate friends of his fa- ther, and many others, were anxious that he should remain and occupy the post so long occupied by^ his honored father. They reminded him, that his father, on the bTrth of the son, promised them that he should be their teacher. But Mr. Bingham, in consultation with his brethren, decided that it was not expedient for him to turn aside from his purpose to go and preach the gospel in " the regions beyond." In 1860, with the full approbation of the Prudential Committee, and of the Rev. Mr. Clark, pastor of the church in Honolulu, whose health and advancing years required that he should be relieved of a part, at leastj of the many labors of so important a post, the First Native Church of Honolulu made out a formal call for Mr. Bingham to return and become their pastor. This call was approved of by the Hawaiian Evan- gelical Association. The call was forwarded by the Morning Star last year, but Mr. Bingham did not see his way clear to accept the call, but intimated that he might do so at a future time, under certain conditipps. 13 On the return of the Morning Star this year to his station, although the church did not think best to renew the call formally, yet the pastor of the church informed him that the door was still open, and the call tor his labors was more urgent than last year, referring the whole de- cision of the case to his own judgment. It is proper to say also, that the subject was again brought to his mind by the Secretary of the American Board in Boston. As we have just remarked, the call was renewed this year, and we were requested to " second " that call. Before consenting to do so, we were rejoiced that the privilege would be allowed us of going upon the ground and viewing the call from a stand-point on heathen, not Chris- tian soil. On our arrival at Apaiang, the subject was very soon made the topic of conversation, and was thoroughly and prayerfully discussed. But while the subject was under consideration, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, we called upon the King of Apaiang, visiting the church on our way to the council house, where we met his Majesty. Having been introduced, and the object of our visit to Mi- cronesia stated, with Mr. Bingham as interpreter, we conversed awhile respecting Capt. Handy, bark Belle, and other topics; at length the subject of Mr. Bingham's removal to Honolulu, was taken up. We informed the King that the people of Honolulu had sent a request for Mr. and Mrs. Bingham to return to Honolulu, and we stated also the nature of the call. We then asked him what was his " thought upon the subject." After a moment's silence, with a countenance expressive of perplexity and concern, he replied, "If Bingham goes to Honolulu, who will be our friend?" In the course of our conversation, he very soon repeated the same remark, " If Bingham goes to Honolulu, who will be our friend ?" This suggestive view of the subject led us to be very cautious how we endeavored to persuade a missionary to leave his field, and return to preach in a Christian land. I remarked, how- ever, to the King, " Suppose Mr. Bingham goes, and Dr. Gulick is sent to take his place." He replied that " that might do." While this conversation was going forward, a group of natives gathered around and silently listened to what was said. We were much impressed with the question of an old native woman, evidently one of the common people. She asked, " Have you no missionary at Oahu, that you came to take ours away ?" We could not reply that Oahu was destitute of missionaries. We returned from that in- terview firmly resolved that Mr. Bingham should not be induced to leave for Oahu through any solicitation on our part. We were not prepared to say, that duty might not call him away from Apaiang, but we did see that he occupied a position of influence, usefulness and importance, second to no other within the range of our knowledge. We saw, moreover, that a missionary and his wife, who have acquired a heathen language, and are usefully engaged in their work, are too valuable servants to be removed from their station, unless for the most important considerations, and under the pressure of the most weighty calls. It now remained for Mr. Bingham to return a definite answer to the call from the First Church in Honolulu. He subsequently gave 14 us to understand, that he had decided to accept the call, and enter upon his duties next year, provided the following conditions were complied with, viz: Pi rs t The Kev. Dr. Gulick, or some other suitable missionary, be sent to take his place. Secondly His honored father should return to Honolulu, and Thirdly His removal should not take place until the close of an- other year's misssonary's labors, when he would have the gospels ready for publication, and other work accomplished. Hence, on the return of the Morning Star, next year, we may con- fidently expect to see Mr. and Mrs. Bingharn, provided those conditions are complied with. Their arrival will be hailed by many with delight, and most surely no Christian brother, could become Pastor of the First Church of Honolulu, whom we should more delight to see occupying that important position, if his present post can be as ably manned, otherwise we hope he may not come. Should this measure be carried out, we shall expect that his influence here will continue to be felt in behalf of the Microruesian Mission, and we foresee many ways in which he may still labor for the benefit of the people of Apaiang. In conclusion, we would add, that throughout the protracted correspondence upon this subject, the removal of Mr. and Mrs. Bingham will not be accomplished through any self-seeking on their part, for we are fully confident that both of them would now prefer living and laboring at Apaiang, rather than in Honolulu. IX. SEA-SICK POETRY. Kind reader* you may have perused what scholars denominate lyric, tragic, epic and doggerel poetry, but we doubt whether any specimens of sea-sick poetry ever fell under your observation. During our home- ward passage from Micronesia, two of our lady passengers were sadly afflicted with sea-sickness. Their cases were desperate ! Not even Jayne's medicines could effect a cure ! Perhaps there is no sovereign cure for sea-sickness but that recommended by Punch, who prescribes for sea-sick invalids, " not to go to sea !" We ought not to omit mentioning the fact, that the " Ode " was sug- gested by a dream, in which the half-conscious sleeper fancied herself endeavoring to indite a poetic effusion to " an old sail." She awoke, exclaiming : ** Oh lend me your wings, old sail" When her suffering comrade caught the inspiration, and penned the ode, to which a reply was returned on the following day. Ode to an Old Sail. Oh lend me your wings, Old Sail ! And quickly I'll hasten away From the chilling breath of this eastern gale, To the fields of new mown hay. * 16 Oh lend me your wings, Old Sail ! For here no ease I find Old sea-sickness, monster grim and pale, Seeks all rny powers to bind. Oh lend me your wings, Old Sail ! I'm weary of lingering here My usual sources of comfort fail, I'm dismal, sad and drear. Oh lend me your wings Old Sail ! And adieu I'll quickly say, To my suffering comrade, wan and pale, And hasten gladly away. S s. Morning Star, July 30, 1861. Reply of the " Old Sail." Do you ask for the wing of an old rent sail, To bear you far hence away To the land where your nights may be free from pain, Nor sickness o'er burden the day ? When the Morning Star saw her natal day, My canvas was bright and new, And I hastened her on 'neath the favoring gale, O'er the waves of old ocean blue. Now I lie on the deck but a shattered thing, And to hear my doom I stay, While with pity I gaze on the sea-sick ones, 1 gladly would speed on their way. Though furled are my pinions and never again May be spread to the breeze or the gale, With hearty good will, I will render my aid To strengthen some other weak sail. So ye who are weary and worn with your voyage, And feel that your life is but vain, May strengthen a comrade and bid her look up, And hope still the have^n to gain. When the storm-king in vengeance shall ride o'er the main And wild waves threaten swift to devour, When the masts, spars and sails and the plank 'neath your feet. You are fearing may leave you each hour, Look beyond, where no cloud overshadows the day, Where no surges or tempests shall roar, And lean on His bosom who giveth thee rest, When life's weary voyage shall be o'er. G tt. Mor?iing Star, July 31, 1861, 15 X. FACTS AND FIGURES ABOUT GILBERT ISLANDS. POPULATION. Captain Kandell, a cocoa-nut oil trader, who has long been familiar with the islands, and has probably more influence through- out the group, than any other foreigner, furnished the Rev. Dr. Gulick, with the following, as the population of the Gilbert Islands: Makin and Butaritari, (Pitt's Island) - 2,000 Marakei, (Mathew's Island) - - - 2,000 APAIANG, (Charlotte Island) - - 3,000 TARAWA, (Knox, properly Knoy's Island,) - 3,500 Maina, (Hall's Island) - - - 4,000 Kuria, (Woodle's Island) - - - 1,500 Aranuka, (Henderville's Island) - - 1,000 Apamama, (Simpson's Island) - - 5,000 Nonouti, (Sydenham's Island) - - 6,000 to 7,000 Taputeuwea, (Drummond's Island) - - 7,000 to 8,000 Peru, (Francis Island) - - - 1,500 to 2,000 Nukunau, (Byron's Island) - - - 5,000 to 6,000 Onoatoa, (Clerk's Island) - - 4,000 Tamana, (Rotcher's Island) - - - 3,000 Arorai (Hope Island) - - 2,000 to 2,500 50,500 to 54,000 FOOD OF THE INHABITANTS. With the exception of fish and a very few cocoanuts, the food of the people consists almost entirely of the fruit of the pandanus tree. They eat the fruit raw, and also prepare it for long preservation. It must be exceedingly nutritious. Let no one imagine that the fruit of the pandanus on the Gilbert Islands, is the same hard and impalatable article as that found upon the Hawaiian Islands. There is nearly as great a contrast between the two as be- tween a crab apple and a lucious Oregon apple. It is not only nutritious, but must be an exceedingly healthy diet. In no part of the world, have we seen a more healthy community v than we found upon Apaiang and Tarawa, the only two islands of the group which we saw. COMMERCE. The only commerce of the islands consists in the sale of cocoa-nut oil for tobacco. The natives in their degradation and heathenism, manifest but very litHe disposition for trade except in to- bacco and fire arms. A Sydney firm has been engaged in the oil trade and it proved exceedingly profitable. As the influence of the mission begins to be felt, a desire is awakening to obtain some other articles in the way of traffic except tobacco. A few are beginning to ask for cloth, knives, hatchets, and other articles. The King of Apaiang forwarded five hundred dollars, by Capt. Gelett, to purchase lumber for a small house. He had obtained the money, as a commission, for pro- curing oil of his people for the traders. Judging from the two islands which we visited, there is but little to tempt the trader to visit those shores. 17 CULTIVATION. The islands do not admit of cultivation. There is lit- erally no soil. The islands are formed of sand, broken coral and shells, with a thin layer of decomposed leaves and other vegetable substances. The number of grasses, trees, and vines is exceedingly small. At very great labor the natives cultivate a coarse species of kalo, which they reserve for feasts, not eating it as an ordinary article of diet. All the islands of this group are low, and of coral formation. APAIANG. This island is about fifty miles in circumference. Twen- ty-seven miles of the island is wooded. It varies from one-eighth, to one-fourth of a mile in width. If all the land of the island was brought into a compact form, it would not form an island four miles in diameter. FOREIGN INTERCOURSE. The Gilbert Islands were first discovered in 1765. They were next visited by Captains Marshall and Gilbert, commanding the Scarborough and Charlotte In 1824, the French navigator, Duperrey, visited and explored some islands of this group. The most thorough exploration and survey ever made, was performed by the U. S. Exploring Expedition, in 1841. In 1844, the whaleship, Columbia, Capt. Kelly, of New London, was wrecked on Sydenham's Island. In 1848, Capt. Spencer, of the Triton, was very nearly being cut off at the same island. On the same island the Flying Fox, Capt. Brown, was wrecked and in 1852, the whale ship Ontario, Capt. Slocum, was wrecked upon Pitt's Island. At the present time, but very few foreigners are residing upon the islands. There is but very little inducement for foreigners to settle upon any of these islands. On Tarawa we found only two foreigners except the Hawaiian Missionaries. These are engaged in collecting cocoanut oil for Capt, Randell. SOCIAL STANDING OF THE PEOPLE. They are an exceedingly debased and degraded portion of the human family. They wear but little clothing. Both sexes, until twelve or fourteen years of age, are en- tirely destitute of clothing. Adults wear but a slight covering ; the males tie around their bodies a coarse mat, while females wear a gir- dle of fringed leaves a few inches wide. We can add our testimony to the truthfulness of the following language of Dr. Gulick: " They are pre-eminently indelicate and indecent, possessing very lit- tle, if any, of that refined gentility found on Ponapi. Many of their cus- toms regarding the dead are abominably filthy and disgusting, such as pre- serving the bodies for days and weeks, and carefully daubing over them- selves the froth or ooze from the mouth of the deceased. The wife will frequently for weeks after the death of her husband continue to sleep beside the corpse, under the same coverlid ; and a mother will sometimes carry the body of her infant about with her till it falls to pieces, and then she will cleanse the bones and carry them. Indeed, it is common to preserve the bones, particularly the skull, of the dead, and carry them about, at times carefully anointing them with oil, and even sharing food with them. " Heathenism is here seen in some of its lowest and most disgusting forms, though it may be said in alleviation that there is little of that deliberate cruelty and none of that religious sacrifice of life found in 3 18 many of the groups of the Pacific. Their religious rites differ in no material respects from those already described in connection with other groups. Stones, the incarnations of deities, are found everywhere, some of which are so noted as to be the recipients of gifts of food, and to receive the prayers of certain priestly ones." In their moral and social condition they are far, very far below Hawaiians. The natives of the Sandwich Islands are a civilized and Christian people, compared with the Gilbert Islanders. XL FAREWELL GLANCE AT THE GILBERT ISLANDERS. " O soft are the breezes that waye the tallcoooa, And sweet are the odors that breathe on the gale; Fair sparkles the wave as it breaks on the coral, Or wafts to the white beach the mariner's sail." Before our eyes catch a glimpse of Ebon and our attention is arrest- ed by the Marshall Islanders'let us take one more glance at the dwell- ers upon the low coral islands of the Gilbert Group. Poets may sing of the charms of a tropic isle,'where waves the tall cocoa, and the waves break on the coral ; the disciples of Rosseau may discourse up- on the happy lot of the savage ; but it requires only a passing glance to dispel the poet's dreams and the skeptic's boasts. However much the charms of nature may delight the eye and please the fancy, yet the actual sight of crowds of naked men, women and children, ignorant, filthy, and degraded, is a most sad and heart-affecting spectacle. We envf not the man who can extol the condition of the heathen, who are living separate, destitute and apart from the blessings of Christianity, and much less do we envy those who, from Christian lands, visiting those degraded people, contribute to introduce among them the vices and diseases of civilized society. Some of the southern islands of the group have been very much corrupted by the demoralizing influence of foreign intercourse. Not so at Apaiang and Tarawa. But very few foreigners have ever lived among the inhabitants of these two islands, or others in the immediate vicinity. There is little, if anything, to tempt the trader among them, except the traffic in cocoanut oil. It is important that the people should have their desires awakened for something else besides tobacco, in exchange for oil. This will be the result as the influence of the mission extends. Already the happy change has commenced at those centres where the missionary's influence is most felt. Let the tide once commence setting in an opposite direction, and the most happy results will speedily follow. We are not sure but it would work bene- ficially if some of the people could be induced to emigrate to other islands of the Pacific ; the reflex influence would be good upon those who remain at home. Guano laborers might be obtained, we think, with but little difficulty. There are islands destitute of inhabitants where the cocoanut oil trade is yet to be commenced ; the Gilbert islanders are just the men to be employed as laborers, in the same man- 19 ner Messrs. English & Co. employ the natives of the South Seas, at Fanning's Island. It is no uncommon event for newly arrived Europeans and Ameri- cans at Honolulu, to lament the low standard of civilization on the Hawaiian Islands, and prematurely pronounce the missionary enter- prise a failure. We only wish such carpers, growlers and narrow- minded observers could come among us, via the Gilbert Islands. On those islands is to be witnessed pure heathenism, unameliorated and unsoftened by Christianity. Compared with the Gilbert Islanders, Ha- waiians are highly favored, and elevated in their civil and social condi- tion. On returning to the dominions of Kamehameha IVth, we feel that we have once more taken up our abode in a well ordered and settled civil, social, intelligent and religious community. If any of our island readers are dissatisfied with their homes and blessings, we advise them to visit the Gilbert Islanders. Having made such a visit,, we are confident every one will say, in the language of the Psalmist, "The lines have fallen unto me in pleasant places ; yea, I have a goodly heritage." Another feeling too, we should hope would arise in their minds, akin to that which led Messrs. Bingham, Mahoe. Kanoa and Haina, with their wives, to take Up their abode among that people and spend their lives in teaching the ignorant, elevating the degraded, heal- ing the sick, clothing the naked, preaching to all, and guiding inquiring souls to the Lamb of God, who " taketh away the sins of the world." XII. FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE MARSHALL ISLANDERS. " Strange scenes, strange men." A passage of two days from Apaiang, brought the Morning Star to Ebon, Boston or CovelPs Island. This is the most southerly of the Ralick chain. Before our vessel came to anchor, scores of the island- ers were swarming our deck. At a glance we saw that a new people dwelt upon this group; lively, active, talkative, prying, shrewd and ready to take advantage, unless we were upon the look-out. The Rev. Mr. Doane came off in a large boat paddled by the principal chiefs of the island. We received such a welcome as none but the lonely missionary can give to one who pays him an unexpected visit. Having heard the island news and reported the general items of news respect- ing the outside world, we left the vessel for a few days' residence on shore. Here we spent from Wednesday evening until the following Monday. During that period our ears were occupied in listening to narratives of interest respecting the people, our eyes were glancing about at the " strange scenes, strange men," passing before us, and our feet were wearied in rambling over the island and reefs. We felt, at first, rather bewildered, for the contrast was great between the dull, stolid, and indolent Polynesians inhabiting the Gilbert Islands, and. the Yankee, driving and go-a-head people of Ebon. Having adjusted our mental reckoning, we began to digest and arrange the facts we had gathered, and jot down the impressions which had been made upon our 20 mind. The mission upon Ebon has been most interesting from its commencement. The very establishment of the mission is connected with a series of most providential and unlocked for incidents. XIII. ORIGIN OF THE MISSION TO MARSHALL ISLANDS. When the Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Pierson arrived in Honolulu, in 1855, they made known their wish to obtain a passage to Ualan or Strong's Island, one of the Caroline Group. The following statement made by Dr. Pierson, we copy from the Missionary Herald of September, 1855. "In conversation with a man a few days since,! happened to ask him if he knew of any opportunity by which we could reach Strong's Isl- and during the summer. He replied that there was a vessel in port, engaged in sperm-whaling and procuring cocoanut oil ; and as the Kingsmill Group is the region for the oil, possibly he would cruise be- yond for whales, and so touch at Strong's Island. Upon this suggestion, I went to see the captain, and asked him where he intended to cruise. He replied, Among the Kingsmill Islands.' I inquired if he would visit the Caroline Islands. He said, No.' I told him that I wished to find a vessel that would go to Strong's Island. He said that he was not going into that region. He said that the best he could do would be to take me to the Kingsmill Islands and leave me there ; and probably in a few months I should find a passage to Strong's Island. " He then turned and looked at me very closely, and asked, * In what capacity do you go ?' I replied, As a missionary.' He looked at me very seriously for a minute or more, without saying a word ; after which he said, ' I have a mind to take you to Strong's Island ; for I love the missionary work. I want missionaries to be placed on every island in the ocean ; and I am willing to do what I can for the cause. Whalers have been a curse to these islands long enough ; and I am determined to do what I can for their good, so as to have righteousness and justice established upon them.' After talking with him some time, he said if we were disposed to take a passage with him, and cruise along through the Kingsmill and Radick groups, stopping at some ten or twelve or more of these islands, he would take us to Strong's Island ; but it would be three or four months before we should arrive at the end of our journey. " Captain Handy has been visiting these islands regularly for about seventeen years for cocoanut oil, has become well acquainted with many of the natives, and understands the languages to a certain extent. Indeed, he had lived upon one of the islands for several months. He is very desirous to have missionaries settle upon both these groups of islands, especially upon the Radack and Ralick Chains. There are no foreigners residing upon them ; and we might preoccupy the ground, and so avoid many difficulties that come from wicked foreigners who have gained influence before the arrival of missionaries. These chains of islands are both under one king, and all speak one language. The Radick and Rahck Chains compose Marshall's Group of islands. They lie near together, and contain at least fifteen thousand inhabitants. He says this in one of most interesting places in the world for a mission." After conferring with the Directors of the Hawaiian Missionary So- ciety, Mr. Pierson was advised to engage a passage with Captain Han- dy. Continuing his narrative, he writes as follows : " Mr. Damon and myself called upon the captain immediately, but he said that he could not do anything without first consulting his officers. He took us on board, and summoned the mates and steward to the cabin, and told them that there was ' a great talk on shore, and some people wanted to put missionaries on board for the islands.' The first mate said, ' I for one am glad of it. We need a missionary among us ; and I am willing to take them.' Another said, ' Whalers have done so much evil to the people on these islands, that I will do anything I can for their good. I like the plan ; and I want the missionaries to go with us.' The other said that he was very much pleased with the proposi- tion. And the steward said that nothing should be wanting on his part to make us comfortable. Arrangements were then made for our pass- age. The captain said that he would give me his state-room ; and the first mate said that he would give his to the native helper, who is to go with us. " The missionary brethren were so much interested in Captain Han- dy'* views, in regard to a mission on Kingsmill and Radack's Islands, thut they invited him to meet them, and give them more definite infor- mation. To this he cheerfully assented, and brought his chart along, and gave them a very full description of that part of the seas, the state of society, the manners and customs of the people on the different islands. All were very much interested in his account, and felt con- vinced that the time had come when these islands ought to be occupied by missionaries. We are filled with joy that our blessed Lord and Saviour has provided such a favorable opportunity for us to explore lands that have never hitherto been visited by a missionary." XIV, REV. DR. PIERSON AND CAPT. HANDY, PEACEMAKERS. The cruise of the bark Belle, forms an important era in the bloody history of the inhabitants of the Marshall Islands. The Belle sailed from Honolulu, May 24th, 1855, having Dr. and Mrs. Pierson on board as passengers. Nearly a year elapsed before any intelligence was re- ceived respecting the vessel. A brief sketch of Dr. Pierson's explora- tions, will be found in the Friend of June 12, 1856. From that sketch we copy as follows : " After leaving the Kingsmill Islands, the Belle cruised among the Mulgrave Islands. The islands have been explored but little, upon some of them probably no white man ever landed. Capt. Handy made arrangements for opening a trade with the people ; which afforded our missionary party an excellent opportunity for ex- ploration. A royal party, consisting of Her Royal Highness the Prin- cess Nemaira, her husband, and five attendants, took passage on board the Belle and cruised about for several days. The natives expressed a strong desire to have missionaries located among them, and the King promised his protection. Dr. Pierson is hoping ere long to return and commence a mission there." It was our privilege to meet Nemaira, the Princess mentioned in the above extract. She is a niece of Kaibuke, who is of so much importance among the Marshall Islanders, and whose character we have elsewhere sketched. During that cruise, Capt. Handy, who had obtained a tolerable ac- quaintance with the Ebon language, exerted his influence, in conjunc- tion with that of Dr. Pierson, to persuade the chiefs to desist from their bloody policy, which had hitherto governed them in their inter- course with foreigners. The chiefs promised Dr. Pierson and Capt. Handy, that they would not cut off any more ships, or put any more foreigners to death who might chance to be cast upon their shores. We are most happy to report, that so far as we have been able to ascertain the facts, the chiefs have scrupulously kept their word. This fact should surely be set down to their credit, and serve to soften our judg- ment in regard to this people. In justification of their bloody policy and excuse of this treatment, the chiefs set up the plea of the ill- treatment which they had received from foreigners. Dr. Pierson, in his report of the cruise of the Belle, remarks as follows : " There are no whites on these islands at present, and no white man has ever lived on any of them for any length of time. The natives have generally shown a hostile spirit to foreigners. Several vessels have been cut off, and a great number of foreigners killed at different times. The reason given for this conduct is, that when the king (Kaibuke) was a young man, a (whale) ship visited Ebon, and a native stole something, which gave occasion for disturbance. A general at- tack was made by natives and many were killed, among them Kai- buke's, oldest brother, and he (Kaibuke) received a wound in the arm from a spade, which we saw. He declared that he would have revenge, that he would kill all the whites he could, and cut off a vessel if possible. His order to this effect has never been revoked until recently." See Missionary Herald, for March, 1858. While we rejoice that the chiefs should have chosen to pursue a different policy, and follow wiser counsels, who can withhold his admira- tion of the mild and peaceful mission of Dr. Pierson and Capt. Handy? Would that all shipmasters, and especially all masters of whale ships, had pursued a similar policy to that of Capt. Handy, towards both the natives and missionaries. Now that Capt. H. has probably retired from the toils, perils and anxieties of a sea-faring life, it must be to him a source of unspeakable satisfaction, that during his last voyage among the savages of the the Marshall Islands, he initiated a policy of good will and kindness towards foreigners in the place of their for- mer cold-blooded and murderous practices; and to Dr. Pierson, who was compelled by the sickness of wife, to retire from his field of labor among this people, it must be a source of the purest joy, that his labors as the pioneer missionary, were not in vain, but that now a plentiful harvest is being gathered trom the gospel seed which was- sown by his hands. 23 In referring to the efforts of Dr. Pierson and Capt. Handy, it would be unbecoming, as well as unjust, not to acknowledge the influence and mild persuasion of Mrs. Pierson. Her influence with Nemaira, the sis- ter of Kaibuke, was very great. She formed an attachment for Mrs. Pierson, which still remains, and no opportunity is lost to make inqui- ries for this missionary lady and first white female who ventured to risk her life among the savages of the Marshall Islands. Her mission was a noble one, and although ill-health [compelled her early to retire from active missionary labors among that people, she may in her home among the people of California, cherish the gratifying reflection, that having done what she could and all she could, her influence is still felt in curbing the violent passions, and checking the savage ferocity of men who had previously imbrued their hands in the blood of many who had been unfortunately cast upon their shores. " Blessed are the peacemakers." XV. FORMER INTERCOURSE OF FOREIGNERS WITH THE MARSHALL ISLANDERS. Some facts have already been published, and others are now being discovered, which show that the Marshall Islanders have imbrued their hands in the blood of many strangers and seamen, who have visited their islands. We hope that a new era has dawned upon those be- nighted islanders. If the mission established upon Ebon has done no other good, we trust that it has effectually stayed the effusion of blood and the cruel murder of any unfortunate mariners who might be driven by stress of weather, or other causes, to seek safety among the people of the Marshall Islands. The following list of murders and massacres, will suffice to show that the time has come when an end should be put to such bloody transactions. In 1834, Capt. Dowsett, mysteriously disappeared at the Piscadores, one of the most northerly islands of Ralick Chain. We still hope as the missionaries extend'their work northward, that they will be able to ascertain something more definite in regard to his fate. We ex- press this opinion, because the islanders have hitherto been very cau- tious about speaking of formei transactions with foreigners. As one and another joins the mission party, facts are being revealed in regard to the past history of foreign intercourse. In 1845, Capt. Cheyne, of the Naid, had trouble with the dwellers upon Ebon, and one man was killed upon the spot, besides the nephew of the highest chief of the Ralick Chain was wounded and died soon after landing. Dr. Gulick, in his lectures, refers to a whale ship that was nearly cut off, at Namarik, (Baring's Island) about the same time, (1845), and also two whale boat's crews came ashore and the crews were all killed at Ebon. During our visit to Ebon, we also heard the story of a boat's crew 24 which landed upon Ebon, some years since, who had plenty of money. A servant woman in the employ of Mrs. Doane, tells this story : When she was a little girl, a boat came to Ebon with six men in it. They had plenty of food in the boat but came for water. Three of the men had on white shirts, and were large, good looking men, not sailors. They had money in a Hingham box or bucket. They had small knives in their pockets. They were all killed by the natives. Their boat was destroyed. Their clothes were put out of the way. She saw them lying together on the ground after they were killed. Their bodies were subsequently put out of the way. The natives threw gold pieces about, and of some they made fish hooks. From the age of this woman and the particulars which she has stated, we are led to suppose this boat may have belonged to the ill-fated brig William Neilson, Capt. Weston, who was accompanied by Capt. Dominis and Commis- sioner Brown as passengers. It is by no means unreasonable to sup- pose that the brig may have struck upon some one of the innumerable reefs of this part of the Pacific. From the Friend of May 15, 1847, we copy the following para- graphs : " THE MISSING BRIG WM. NEILSON. This vessel left the port of Hon- olulu, August 5, 1846, for China, expecting to return as early as Christmas. Fears have been for months entertained respecting her fate, but conjecture has inspired the hope that she was not lost; perhaps, she might be sold or otherwise detained. The ' Mary/ which left China, March 2d, reports that up to that date no intelligeace had been re- ceived respecting her. We can with difficulty bring our mind to the conclusion that all on board have perished and not one survives to report the story of her disaster. There is the possibility, that like the brig ' Express,' the Wm. Neilson ' may have been wrecked on that some of the numerous islands in that part of the broad Pacific. It is reported however, that a succession of terrible gales and typhoons was experienced in that region of the ocean during the months of Sep- tember, October and November. Ex. U. S. Commissioner, Brown, and Capt. Dominis, passengers, and Capt. Weston commanding the brig, are removed from their families, which will not soon cease to mourn the absent husband and father, while a wide circle of friends and relations will deeply sympathize with the bereaved. No person in our community was more generally esteemed for his many excellen- cies as a neighbor, friend and citizen, than Capt. Dominis, and his family have met with an irreparable loss. "During Mr. Brown's long residence at the islands, he gained many friends, and his private character, we believe, to have been above re- proach. There are many in this quarter of the world who will sym- pathize with his deeply afflicted family. There are many here, who will also sympathize with the family of Capt. Weston. On a former voyage Mrs. Weston accompanied her husband to our shores, when he commanded the ship Congaree. In addition to the above mentioned in- dividuals, ^it becomes our duty to record the names of others belonging to the ship's company, viz: Mr. George Brown, Junior, passenger ; Mr. Charles Green, a passenger, belonging to Barnstable, Mass. He came 25 to the islands as Capt. Dominis' 1st officer, on board the schooner Swallow. One Chinaman and five Lascar sailors were also passen- gers. u Belonging to the crew of the brig, were the following : 1st officer. Mr. Harnmet, Martha's Vinyard ; 2d officer, Mr. Benson, Baltimore, Md. Seamen, Seth P. Peterson and Amherst Peterson, brothers, be- longing to Marshfield, Massachusetts. David Mann and Walter Tybu, both belonging to Hanover, Mass. The names of cook and steward, we are unable to learn. Two seamen, John Pitts and J. Gilbert, were discharged sick at this port, just before the sailing of the vessel. " The vessel, we are informed, was insured, as well as the whole, or a part of the cargo, $22,000 in specie." In October, 1852, the schooner Glencoe of San Francisco, was burnt and crew murdered by the inabitants of Ebon. In this affair the chiefs took no part, for they were absent from the island. The Gle?i- C9 anchored near the anchorage ground where the Morning Star lay in safety during our visit, and where we enjoyed the most friendly intercourse with the people. A short time after the bloody affair of the Glencoe, it is reported that a brig touched at Ebon, and active preparations were made by the chiefs and people to take the vessel and murder all hands. Just as the vessel was about to drop her anchor, the wind veered and the master of the brig concluded it unsafe to anchor. Thus the vessel escaped, in a manner most providential. The vessel would have anchored where the Morning Star lay, while we remained at Ebon. In December, 1852, (two months after the sad affair of the Glencoe,) the Sea Nymph, of San Francisco, Capt. McKensie, was cut off at Jaluit or Bonham's Island. The only survivor of Capt. McKensie's crew, was brought to Honolulu about three years ago. The hull of the vessel is now to be seen in the spot where she was burnt and sunk by the natives. Dr. Gulick reports the Sea Nymph as belonging to San Francisco, but unless we are much mistaken, she was under the British flag. During our visit to Ebon, we also heard of a large ship which went on shore at Bikini, one of the most northern islands of the Kalick Chain. Report says that the ship's company embarked in their boats, but left plenty of articles on the ship, and among other things left be- hind, was a black New Foundland dog, which the natives rescued, and which is now reported to be among the islanders. We could not ascer- tain the name of the ship, or the year when the wreck occurred. We hope yet to learn additional particulars in regard to this wreck. It seems somewhat remarkable that the foregoing facts have not at- tracted the attention of either the British or American naval com- manding officers upon the Pacific Station. From facts which came under our notice while at Ebon, we are confident that the chiefs are fearful that even yet they may be called to account for some one of the many bloody deeds which have been perpetrated within their domin- ions. The retributive punishment, which a man.of-war might inflict conveys a terror to their minds. A man-of-war they have never seen, but the name is familiar to their ears. It may seem strange, but it 4 26 is nevertheless true, there are many islands, even groups of islands, in the Pacific, as yet unvisited by either an English or American vessel of war. We do not plead for the visit of vessels-of-war to the Marshall Islands, for the protection of the missionaries, or because we have lost our faith in missions, but for the protection of commerce and the lives of wrecked mariners. We believe the time has come when it would be feasible to form a treaty with those people. The chiefs, through the interpretation of the missionaries, could be made to understand the nature of treaty-stipulations. Should a vessel of *var visit those islanders, they could be made to understand that, should further massacres and murders occur, they would be held re- sponsible. We can readily see that such a visit might be productive of incalculable good. A judicious commander ought however to be selected for the purpose, otherwise more evil than good would be the the result. We are not ignorant of the fact that an American vessel of war, the schooner Dolphin, Lieut. Percival, once visited Mili, or Mulgrave Island, which is the most southern of the Radack Chain. The occasion of that visit (1825) was for the purpose of rescuing a portion of the crew of the American whaleship Globe, on board of which a mutiny had occurred. The Morning Star has visited that island, and the spot was pointed out where the Globe anchored. The mutineers were killed by the natives in consequence of their cruel treatment of the females. The Dolphin was upon her return passage from the Mulgraves, when she touched at Honolulu, and those disgraceful scenes occurred, which gave Lieut. Percival an unenviable notoriety, and prevented him from obtaining the command of another vessel for nearly twenty years. He still lives, and in his old age doubtless regrets the mad freaks of his youth. We should seriously deprecate the consequences if a vessel of war should be sent to call the islanders to account for the past, for we are not sure but in most instances, there may have been injury and insult inflicted upon the islanders, before they were led to lift the murderous knife. Let " by-gones be by-gones," but for the future let there be a fair and full understanding that if new murders are committed, the perpetrators will be held to a strict account. Such a policy would ex- ert a most beneficial and salutary influence. The chiefs are now haughty and overbearing, and voyaging about in their big war ca- noes or proas, imagine that they are above law, and hence are lawless. The missionary may teach the people the gospel and thereby accom- plish incalculable good, but he cannot do every thing. The following facts however, will show that he can work with spiritual weapons when threatened with carnal. On a certain occasion, a haughty and' overbearing chief, told the missionary that it was " Ebon fashion,' when foreigners conducted in a manner not to please the chiefs, that they put them out of the way, or in other words, acted upon the prin- ciple, that " dead men could tell no tales." This was Ebon fashion. INow the missionary wished to show this proud and lawless chief, what was the Christian fashion of treating one's enemies ; so he conducted the chief into his study, and knelt down and: prayed for him and his 27 people. For writes the apostle Paul, " the weapons of our warfare, are not carnal, but mighty through God to the pulling down of stony holds." We have more faith in the prayers and teachings of the mis- sionary ,to christianize and civilize the rude and savage Marshall Island- ers, than in commerce or warships. Let the missionary and school teacher go among them with a translation of Webster's spelling book, and the New Testament, and the most happy results may be looked for ; children taught to sing " There is a happy land." we do not believe will grow up to become murderers and pirates. XVI. KAIBUKE. This is the name of one of the most remarkable personages we met at Ebon. He is sometimes spoken of as the King, but that is however far from being true. He is not even so high a chief as some others, or even his elder brother. On one occasion both he and his brother visit- ted Mr. Doane, and we saw Kaibuke, take a seat on the opposite side of the room, thus paying marked deference to that elder brother. He is nevertheless an important character among his people, and upon his word depends the life or death of the people. We could not learn, as there was really any person who could be officially denominated as His Majesty, or His Imperial Majesty, or the President. The government of the islands is in the hands of a body of haughty, imperious and un- scrupulous chiefs, whose caprices and whims are the laws of their do- minions. Among these chiefs, Kaibuke has gained an ascendancy and influence, in consequence of his energy, tact, impudence and adroit- ness. He is a complete politician, placed in a position to carry his measures by force, if they cannot be promoted by mildness. He is ex- ceedingly jealous of the teaching of the missionaries, yet has always maintained a friendly intercourse with them. This must be said to his credit, that he has always kept his word that he originally made to Dr. Pierson, that he would protect the mission. He took Dr. Pierson for "his son," and Mr. Doane, "his friend," which is an expressive method of speaking in the language of Ebon. It is also in his favor, that when the Morning Star first entered the lagoon of Ebon, in 1857, he, aided by another high chief, prevented her being run ashore and pillaged, as no doubt some of the chiefs and many of the natives intended should have been her fate. Kaibuke occupies the position of Prime Minister or Secretary of State, although such terms are foreign to the Ebon dialect. He was at church the Sabbath morning we spent at Ebon. The question was asked him in the presence of the audience if he would protect addi- tional missionaries, if they were sent to Ebon. He gave us his word that he would. We could relate many stories which were told respecting his du- plicity, cruelty and lack of trust worthiness, but we prefer to allow our readers to remain in ignorance of the dark side of his character. Kai- 28 buke is no doubt more or less implicated in some of those deeds oi blood which have been perpetrated upon the Marshall Islands. We hope however better things for him in time to come. Those who have gone thither as teachers have not failed to point out to him the better way, or that the eye of Jehovah is continually upenhim, and that he will be held responsible by the King of kings. Kaibuke, takes his name from that of a ship, in the language of New Zealand. Several years ago a ship from the " south seas " visited the islands. The ship was called Kaibuke, so he took that name. Another chief took the name of Capt. Terry, from the name of the commander of the vessel. We visited Kaibuke's residence, and found him surrounded by his wives, (of whom he has four,) and his eleven children, most of whom could not be said to be encumbered with a superabundance of clothing. He is a man apparently about fifty-five years of age, with a coun- tenance indicative of energy and good nature, although not of noble- ness and magnanimity. We account him however a remarkable man, and if not too old to learn, we hope to hear better reports of him here- after. The following incidents may serve to illustrate the character of this Ebonite politician and Prime Minister. On our first interview, a surprising intimacy and familiarity was manifest on his part. Mr. Doane introduced us as " the missionary at Oahu, to foreigners and seamen." Kaibuke replied, "Mikinari Oahu, Mikinari very good." His eye caught our black coat. He took hold of the sleeve saying, 11 Me like very good." Remembering the precept that " He that hath two coats, let him impart to him that hath none" we gave to it a literal interpretation. Various were the interviews which \ve had with this Ebon official. Sometimes we conversed upon mat- ters grave and solemn, and at others we carried on trade in a small way, i. e. exchanging fish hooks and jack knives for the curiosities of the country. At the interview alluded to above, when we called at his residence, it so happened that after a long walk, we were exceedingly thirsty, hence we asked for a little water. He said, " will you not have a cocoanut." We assented, of course. One of his attendants was immediately sent off and up one of those gracefully waving trees adorning the coral islands of Micronesia. Soon the cocoanuts were brought, one for each of us present. We passed ours to His Excellency, but he declined. When we all had quenched our thirst, Kaibuke very politely intimated that a fish-hook apiece would be acceptable for the nuts. We (including our two companions) paid His Excellency, Kuibuke, three fish hooks for three cocoanuts, and took our departure. We only mention this fact as an illustration of Kaibuke's re- markable character ! If hereafter, in the progress of learning, he should ever acquire a knowledge of the English language, and these remarks upon his character should fall under his eye, he may be assured that "the missionary at Oahu" has followed Othello's parting injunction, 14 And naught set down in malice." XVII. ORIGIN OF THE MARSHALL ISLANDERS. Much has been said and written about the origin of various inhabi- tants scattered over the islands of Polynesia. Whatever theory may be formed respecting Hawaiians, Tahitians, Samoans, or Kingsmill Islanders, we are confident but one opinion can be true respecting the Marshall Islanders. They are unmistakably of Japanese extraction. We know that in making the assertion, we are at variance with the opinions of some ethnological writers. Whoever saw the Japanese embassy visiting the United States in 1860, and the Marshall Island- ers, would say that they were sprung from the same original stock. Their features and physical organization are most strikingly similar. We could not discover one Polynesian trait, feature or habit among them. Like the Japanese and Chinese, they are remarkably indus- trious. They are constantly at work, whether upon the land or sea. They have a saying " Ebon people never tire." This trait is most strikingly in contrast with all the Polynesian tribes, so proverbially in- dolent. The Japanese Princes are accustomed to traverse the empire, with large retinues, and thousands of retainers; the Marshall Islanders per- form similar journeys upon the sea. Every year the chiefs of the Marshall Islands make long voyages, from island to island of the group. We were so fortunate as to meet the entire company of the chiefs of the Ralick Chain of islands, at Ebon. They were about fitting off for a summer cruise to the north. Their large war canoes were hauled upon the sand beach. On the day of our arrival, there had been a race of canoes across the lagoon. We were informed that thirty large proas or war canoes, would form the expedition north, manned by five hundred followers of these chiefs, who voyage in royal state. These proas are propelled by a large triangular sail, which is so hung upon the mast that it will propel the proa either way. Their arrangements for a rudder, is a paddle fast- ened by a rope, and which can readily be changed from one end of the proa to the other. They never propel these proas by paddles, but trust al- together to the winds. In subsequent investigations, it will be interesting to ascertain if there are not strong affinities between the Japanese and Ebon languages. We are not prepared to hazard even an opinion upon this subject, but still the thought has arisen in our mind, from reading the .Rev. Mr. Doane's remarks upon " The Ebon and Ponapi Dialects Compared," published in the Friend of Feb. 1860, that when a similar comparison shall embrace the Japanese language, that will be found to be the ba- sis of both the Ebon and Ponapian dialects. There is no surer meth- od of tracing the migration of nations and tribes over the continents, islands and oceans of our globe, than by ferreting out the roots and radicals of their languages. In glancing an eye upon a good map of the Pacific, it will appear that the Marshall and Caroline Islands are separated from the Japanese Islands by a breadth of ocean which 30 might be passed over by junks drifting away from land. In looking at the present condition, customs and habits of the Marshall Islanders;, we see no great disimilarity between them and the Japanese, which might not have arisen from their isolated and insular position. In further confirmation of this opinion that the Marshall Islanders are an offshoot of the Japanese, we would refer to their religious opinion?. They do not worship idols, but hold their ancestors in great veneration. They have their consecrated groves and sacred spots. Superstitious or religious ideas do not appear to have had a very strong hold upon their minds. Mr. Doane remarked to us, that they were almost atheists. Who does not rejoice that they now are to have made known to them a knowledge of the one only true God ? XVlll. CHEERING PROSPECTS OF THE EBON MISSION. From our knowledge of the Marshall Islanders, knowing them to have been extremely hostile to foreigners, as much so as the Japanese, and in all respects so unlike Polynesians generally, we were not pre- pared to witness much encouragement to prosecute the mission. This -mission was first established by Messrs. Doane and Pierson, in 1857, There have never been but two mission-families at the same time upon the island. Dr. Pierson left on account of his wife's sickness, at the end of his second year's labor. Dr. Gulick and family remained there but one year, and at present the Kev. Mr. Doane and Mr. Aea, the Hawaiian Missionary, are occupying the field. The gospel has made a decided impression upon the people. Preach- ing is regularly maintained at the station, and upon an islet on the opposite side of the lagoon, to which station Mr. Doane goes every Sabbath afternoon. Mr. Aea teaches a station school and visits two islets for teaching schools, once a week. His services are invaluable. He has now been upon the island only nine months, yet he speaks the language with fluency, and is daily perfecting himself in speaking and writing. He began to address the people when he had been there but three months. We visited his school. When calling the roll of eighty pupils, forty-three answered to their names. We heard them read, saw them write, and witnessed their ability in ciphering. Their pro- gress was really commendable, considering that not yet four years have elapsed since the missionaries began to reduce the lan- guage to a written form. It must be borne in mind, that there are no reading or school books in the Ebon dialect, but what have been pre- pared and even printed by them, upon a little miserable hand press, that would not be worth in New York five dollars. Mr. Doane and Aea work at type-setting and tjve' press, never having been iniatiated into the mysteries of a printirig office before going to Ebon. They have printed at this station an elementary book for children learning to read, a few of the first chapters of Matthew, and a small collection of hymns. Some of these were written by Dr. and Mrs. Pierson, who are now in California, With these few meagre helps, these missionaries 31 are rapidly teaching the children and adults of Ebon and the neigh- boring islands to read. In all their instruction they mingle scrip- tural truth in every variety of form. It was exceedingly sur- prising to witness the readiness with which the pupils in the day and Sabbath schools, answered the questions addressed to them. There was a sprightliness, activity, aptness and quickness of perception which gave the pleasing evidence that the youth of Ebon would not fall be- hind the youth of other and more favored lands, if they could only enjoy similar advantages. The missionaries have certainly secured a hold upon the rising generation which promises a rich harvest in future years. Not only have the youth of Ebon afforded gratifying evidence of becoming good scholars, but several have already become, in the ex- pressive language of the islanders, " lovers of Jesus." Christians are styled " lovers of Jesus." We met some of these young people, and surely it afforded a joy which words cannot express, to witness their meek and gentle demeanor, and hear Mr. Doane speak of their humble, and consistent walk. One of these may be said to have met a martyr's death, for he was cruelly put to death by a company of revengeful chiefs, urged onward by hatred and passion, and the lying tongue of a base woman. We were assured that hatred of the young man's Christian principles had no small influence in hastening forward his death. May the blood of the martyr prove the seed of the church, in this, as it has in numerous other instances. This leads us to remark that, while the truth is manifestly and rapidly making progress upon Ebon, among the common people, there are those who are decidedly opposed to the movement. Many of the high chiefs, although apparently upon good terms with the mission- aries, are at heart inimical to the preaching of the gospel. These persons tolerate the mission, because, indirectly, it brings ships and trade to their islands ; beyond this, they are exceedingly suspicious of the work which has commenced among their hitherto secluded islands. There are two opposing parties, and the present indications are, that ere long there will be a mighty struggle for the supremacy. It would be no surprising thing if the mission should be violently opposed by a powerful body of the chiefs, who look with a jealous eye upon the fact that their subjects are learning to read and acquire knowledge. These chiefs are keen and shrewd men, and foresee that with the in- crease of knowledge among the commoners, will arise a party to oppose the old and cruel practices of the rulers of the land. Only upon a much smaller scale, the same elements are at work among the inhabi- tants of the Marshall Islands, which were at work among the Romans and other ancient nations in the early ages of Christianity, when the Apostles went forth in obedience to the Saviour's command, to make disciples of all nations. If this mission goes forward as it has been thus auspiciously commenced, we may confidently look for great and glo- rious results. A good beginning has been made. A foothold has been secured. Gospel seed has been sown. It is already springing up. " Say not ye, there are four months, and then cometh harvest? Behold, I say unto you, lift up your eyes, and look on the fields, for they are white already to harvest." John iv:35. 32 XfX. AN AMERICAN MISSIONARY WITH HIS COAT OFF, AND AN HAWAIIAN MISSIONARY WITH HIS SLEEVES ROLLED UP. We witnessed a scene on one of the islets encircling the lagoon of Ebon, which would have gratified the friends of education and missions. After the Sabbath morning services at the Mission Station, it was our privilege to accompany Messrs. Doane and Aea to their out-station on the opposite side of the lagoon. We were just one hour crossing the lagoon. On approaching the shore, Mr. Doane skilfully piloted our boat through a narrow opening in the reef, scarcely wide enough to allow the boat to pass. We entered the smooth waters within the barrier reef, and skimming along over beds of coral, of every shape, va- riety and color, saw the fish darting in and out from under the rocky branching marine forest. As we landed, a group of bright-eyed and laughing children gave us a cordial welcome. We proceeded immediately to the meeting or school house, where an audience of over one hundred soon gathered. The fe- males were all modestly attired, their hair neatly combed and parted, and many wore chaplets of fresh flowers. The house was filled, even overflowing, and as closely packed as the hold of a slaver. The Ket. Mr. Doane conducted the services. He introduced the strangers, who made short addresses. Then followed the school exercise. The whole audience, old and young, arranged themselves into groups of about eight or ten. Mr. Doane, Aea, and a few young men, or rather boys, who could read, sat down upon the mats to teach these ignorant islanders the rudiments of their language. Truly the scene was one to be remembered by those of us to whom such scenes were new. Mr. Doane took of his coat, and Aea rolled up his sleeves. They en- gaged in the work with an energy and zeal, earnestness and cheerful- ness, that imparted life and animation to the school, which banished everything like drowsiness or inattention. Every eye and ear was awake. We never saw more hearty study or more promising pupils. The sounds of " ba, be, bo, bu, am, om, im, urn, em," are still ringing in our ears. The voices of the Ebonites are by no means harsh or unpleasant. Mr. Doane has arranged some of the elementary exercises, in such a manner that they form a simple chant, rendering the lessons very easy of remembrance. The interesting- school was opened by singing " There is a Happy Land," and closed by a hymn, in the Ebon language. 33 XX, DEFERENCE TO RANK AMONG MARSHALL ISLANDERS. " Honor thy Father and thy Mother," Is a command which God gave to Moses upon Sinai. The Marshall Islanders reverse this law, and inculcate the principle, " parents honor your children." The oldest son of a family rules the household. He is never checked or restrained, but his will is law and his caprice the rule. While visiting Mr. Doane's family, we noticed a chief pass some food to his little son, which had been given him by Mr. Doane. The father did not even taste of the food, before offering it to his son. We were informed that should the oldest son even kill his father, or any member of the family, he would not be called to account ! One of the most serious difficulties into which Mr. Doane ha^ ever been brought, was when he unintentionally treated the oldest son of a high chief, in a manner which was interpreted as an insult by the chief. The lad insulted was a young sans culotte sprig of the highest blood. His father fired up and threatened. He defied the terrors of a man-of- war ! He intimated that the missionary's life might be the forfeiture, or that he might be disposed of as so many other foreigners had been ! Mr. Doane calmly remonstrated. The chief then intimated that a present would appease his wrath and restore the insulted honor of his son. " No," said the missionary, " I came here to teach you, not to make you presents." He then pointed out to him the law of God, and read the ten commandments, closing the interview with prayer, as de- scribed in another part of the sketches. Jealousy respecting rank is not confined to rulers and princes of en- lightened and civilized nations. We have never known stronger feel- ings manifested among any people upon this subject, than among the naked savages of the Marshall Islands. A line marked and dis- tinct is drawn between chiefs and common people. There is no crossing that with impunity. We asked the Rev. Mr. Doane, what crimes were punishable ? He replied, " none but insult to chiefs." The death penalty is not unfrequently inflicted for this crime. Only a few days before our arrival at Ebon, a young man was put to death, on the mere- est suspicion, and after his death it was ascertained that he was inno- cent. While the chiefs are so very jealous upon this subject, still they mingle among their people, and outwardly but slight deference is paid to the chiefs. Among the chiefs, everything, in regard to rank, depends upon who was a chiefs mother. The female gives rank. Their ideas and laws respecting marriage are very peculiar. A chief of the first class must marry a woman of the second class, and their children will be second class chiefs. A first class woman must marry a second class chief, and their children will belong to the first class. These rules are rigidly enforced. Polygamy exists among them. Some have as many as four or five wives, although we heard of none who carried their ideas o polygamy to the extent of Brigham Young and his followers. 5 XXI. FAREWELL GLANCE AT MARSHALL ISLANDS. These islands are thirty in number. Fifteen forming the Ralick or Western Chain, and fifteen forming the Radack or Eastern Chain. The population is estimated at 10,000 ; the Ralickers numbering 6,000, and the Radackers, 4,000. Each chain of islands has its own chiefs, and are independent of each other, although the chiefs of the Ralick Chain entertain the idea of nominal supremacy. There was a rumor, at the time of our visit, that the chiefs of the Ralick Chain were about to assert and endeavor to maintain their authority over their less pow- erful neighbors. The food of the natives consists of bread fruit, jack fruit, (a species of bread fruit,) cocoa nuts, pandanus fruit, and fish. The manufacture of cocoanut oil has been commenced at Ebon, Messrs. Stapenhorst and Hoffschlaeger of Honolulu, having recently purchased land and erected the necessary buildings. It was estimated that nearly one hundred barrels of oil would be collected this year. As yet tobacco is the principal article of barter for oil. All the islands of both chains are coral, low and lagoon shaped. There is more verdure upon these than upon the Gilbert Islands. They are situated in a region of the Pacific where the trade winds blow very strong and are accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. They range from 4 to 12 N. L., and 165 to 172 E. L. The two chains of islands run nearly N. W. and S. E., and are parallel to each other. The whole group takes its name of Marshall Islands, from Capt. Marshall, of the English Navy, who visited them in the year 1788, commanding the Scarborough. The visits of the celebrated Russian Navigator, Kotzebue, to the Radack Chain, are full of interest as described in his voyages, published in London, 1821, in three vol- umes. These islands, however, have never been thoroughly explored, and are very incorrectly laid down upon the charts. The notices which have been published respecting them in Colton's large Atlas, or any other geographical works, are exceedingly meagre, incorrect, and un- satisfactory. Dr. Gulick's lecture upon the Marshall Islands, is higly interesting and instructive. We now take our leave of the Marshall Islands and their inhabitants. Our visit opened up to view, a new phase of Polynesian life. We there saw the humble and devoted missionaries laboriously engaged in the work of reducing the language to a written form, teaching school and preaching to the people. After having enjoyed their hospitality and Christian fellowship, we took our departure, bringing away Mrs. Doane and her two little children, who left on account of her own health and the sickness of the youngest child. Never shall we forget that parting scene. This hymn was sung : 11 How vain is all beneath the skies ! How transient every earthly bliss ! How Blender all the fondest ties, That bind us to a world like this, &c., &c. 35 Then let the hope of joys to come, Dispel our cares, and chase our fears ; If God be ours, we're travelling home, Though passing through a vale of tears." The Rev. Mr. Doane offered a prayer in the Ebon language, and it was followed by a prayer in English. We saw a number of the native Christians, or " lovers of Jesus," pass around to the state-room window and bid Mrs. Doane farewell, with many tears. It would have subdued the stoutest soul, to have witnessed the missionary part with his wife and children, and then step into his boat and steer for his lonely home ! There may be a romance about the missionary life, when viewed from the shores of Christian England and America, but all romance is dissi- pated and it puts on a stern reality when the real experience comes. As we stood upon the quarter deck of the Morning Star, conversing with the Rev. Mr. Doane, and taking a last look at the shores of Ebon, we said, " It is hard for you to part with your family, and go there to labor alone." His only reply was. " I could not, if I did not feel that Jesus was my companion." Surely it was no unmeaning language of our Saviour, " Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of the world." While this scene was passing, the sailors were heaving at the anchor, and the sails were loosening. We were soon off and bound for Strong's Island, but with the glass, we watched that little boat, rising and falling with the swell, until it was lost in the distance. When that happy family will be again united, is known only to the Master, in whose cause they labor. XXII. UALAN, STRONG'S ISLAND, OR KUSAIE. In reading books upon Polynesia, and examining charts of the Paci- fic, there is nothing more perplexing than the variety of names applied to the same islands, or group. Ualan, Strong's Island or Kusaie, is a good illustration of this remark. We will now explain the several terms or names applied to this island. UALAN, is the usual name found upon charts, and upon large atlases. This is the name which the natives apply to the large or main island, while Lila, is that of the small island. STRONG'S ISLAND. This is the name usually applied to the island, by whalers and seafaring people. It was given to the island by Capt. Crozer, commanding an American ship, who was the discoverer in 1804. KUSAIE. This is the name, by which the missionaries prefer to call the island. It is really the most appropriate name, as the native term to be applied to the two islands, viz : of Ualan and Lila. The principal island, Ualan, is twenty-four miles in circumference, and the small island, Lila, about two miles. In ancient times, the large island was conquered by the inhabitants of the small island, and to the present time, remains tributary. The King resides upon the small island. The mission premises are also located upon it. It is separated, 36 from the large, by a narrow channel of the eighth of a mile in width. Both are densely wooded, with cocoanut, breadfruit, mangrove and numerous other tropical trees. The forests are a perfect jungle. The large island is formed of two mountains towering to the height of about 2,000 feet, which may be seen a long distance at sea. The for- ests are intersected by numerous small streams. The climate is very humid, as we can testify ! Strong winds prevail. Frequently the rains are accompanied by heavy thunder and vivid flashes of lightning. There are three harbors upon the island. xxni. RUINS ON KUSAIE. Very conflicting statements have been published respecting the ruins on Kusaie. We almost expected to behold the ruins of " The cloud capp'd towers, the gorgeous palaces," covered with mosses and ivy, while from other reports, we were not led to expect any thing remarkable. We found this to be the simple truth. The small island of Lila, is surrounded by a wall, five or six feet high, but now very much dilapidat- ed. The island is intersected and cut up by walls running in various directions, enclosing areas varying from a few to many acres. Some portions of these walls, are very massive, varying from five to twenty- five feet in height and proportionately broad or thick. The stones com- posing the walls were gathered from the island but a part were brought a long distance from the main island. This is true of some very large pentago- nal basaltic rocks. Some of these rocks are very large. We saw specimens, which it would require half of the present inhabitants of the island to move and elevate to their present position. We copy the following sentences from Dr. Gulick's third lecture : " From M. D'Urville's reports and from the accounts of sea captains we had received glowjng ideas of the architectural exhibitions on Lila ; we were to find a native city handsomely laid out, with paved streets, and at frequent intervals handsome piles of stone-cut masonry. On the contrary, we found nothing but muddy paths, zigzagging hither and thither over rubbish and stones. There were many stone walls three or four feet high, evidently of very recent origin ; and scattered among the groves were indeed evidences of ancient labor, consisting of artiff- cial islets, built up above high tide level, and almost cyclopian lines and enclosures of stone walls. Banyan like trees had in many cases sent their roots into the very center of these structures, and from some spots the stones have been entirely removed. A line of stone, varying in height in different parts, surrounds a considerable portion of the cen- tral hill of Lila. Not far from the King's and his eldest son's resi- dences are several enclosures about two hundred by one hundred feet, with walls twenty feet high, and in some places at the foundations twelve feet thick. We partially traced at least one very much larger l?ut less perfect enclosure. The walls are built of basaltic stones, occa- 37 sionally filled in with coral. Some of the rocks are very large irregu- lar masses, while others are beautiful pentagonal prisms. There is not the remotest trace upon any of them of a stone-cutter's adze. Along the south western shore are a number of canals communicating with the harbor and in which the sea ebbs and flows. The sides of the canals are in some cases crumbled, but bear evident tokens of having been artificially built; and the islets themselves are evidently in a con- siderable degree artificial, composed principally >f coral stones, the rubbels of the canals themselves. These canals intersected each other, and so formed islets, on at least one of which is found a towering stone enclosure. Mangrove trees have in many cases choked up these watery courses, and with other kinds of trees on the islets have nearly buried the whole in a shade most congenial with the thoughts excited by these relics of a dimmer age than that which we might hope had now dawned upon them. " King George afterward informed us that these walls were built by the former inhabitants. Many of the larger rocks were brought from the main island on rafts. When we asked how such heavy blocks could be elevated so high, he replied they were rolled up from one level to another on inclined planes ot logs and stones. As to their uses, he said the wall about the hill was for defense from aggressors from the main island, and that many of the remaining walls were in honor of the dead. Nothing could be more improbable or unsatisfactory than to import a company of buccaneers, or any civilized people, to build what could not be at all to their purpose, nor to the credit of their ar- chitectural talents; and what it would have been morally impossible for them to have done. The inhabitants of Kusaie are even now skilled in wall building. We were told that one of their most decisive evi- dences of public grief is to rebuild the wall about the premises of a bereaved chief; and to this day the chiefs arc buried in one of the an- cient enclosures, as though they were the mausoleums of the great. Possibly they may in the first instance have been built about royal resi- dences, and on the decease of the builders have become their magnifi- cent sepulchres, though the analogy of present Micronesian customs de- cides against it." XXIV. WEATHER BOUND ON KUSAIE. It is related of a voyager in the South Pacific, that he once visited an island inhabited by savages, where a white man was not safe. Du- ring a subsequent voyage the ship in which he sailed, was wrecked upon the same island. He confidently expected that an untimely end would be his certain fate. Soon however he was met by a friendly native, who kindly pointed the wrecked man to the house of the ' Mikinari." Hope now succeeded to fear in the sailor's mind. He exclaimed, " All's well, there is a missionary here." We have never been wrecked, but we have been weather-bound, and unable to join our vessel. We landed on Kusaie, early Sabbath morning, 38 and were unable to communicate with the Morning Star, until the fol- lowing Friday. Not only did we enjoy the feeling of security among Kusaiens, but we also enjoyed the kind entertainment of a most hospi- table family. We shall not very soon forget the kindness and generous treatment we experieuced from Mr. and Mrs. Snow, the only white per- sons residing upon the island. During the period of our detention, we enjoyed an excellent opportunity for picking up numerous items of historical and local interest, visiting the dwellings of the inhabitants, observing their habits and customs, besides examining the progress of the people in their appreciation of the missionary's efforts to raise them in the scale of civilization, and impart to them the invaluable blessings of Christianity. The Sabbath being our first day spent among the Kusaiens, naturally leads us to refer, in the first place, to Kusaie as a mission field. XXV. MISSION ON KUSAIE. This mission was established in the autumn of 1852, by the Kev. B. G. Snow and wife. They were left there by the schooner Caroline, commanded by Capt. Holdsworth, during the successful trip of that vessel to Micronesia, on a missionary enterprise. The missionaries were welcomed by King George, who not only allowed them a residence, but gave them a most cordial welcome, and who proved to the day of his death, (September 9th, 1854,) a firm and steadfast friend of the missionary. Before his death he offered the most gratifying evi- dence that his soul had embraced the glorious doctrines of Christianity, as unfolded and explained by Mr. Snow. The King's death threw a dark shadow over the prospects of the mission, for his successor was a man possessed of the very opposite traits of character, who died in about two years, as he lived, the debased slave of lust and drunkenness. He was succeeded by the present chief ruler, whose conduct and policy towards the mission, is by no means one of opposition, but rather that of indifference. He uniformly treats the missionary with kindness, and is a friendly neighbor, comes to meeting upon the Sabbath morn- ing, and like too many in Christian lands, during the week is a faithful servant of this world. The King was almost the first Kusaien to whom we were introduced, for we found him at church before the audience, had assembled. Soon after we entered, an audience gathered of about one hundred. The men were seated cross-legged upon mats, in the rear. The King and three high chiefs upon benches, and the females and children in front of the missionary, while the missionary's family and strangers were disposed of on the left of the desk. A manuscript collection of hymns, was handed us, and others re- ceived the same, for a Kusaien had never as yet looked upon a printed page of his language, although this gratification was soon afforded him, as the Morning Star brought 300 copies of a small primer and hymn book printed in the Kusaien language. Mr. Snow gave out the hymns, and conducted the services, after the usual method in our congrega- tions, excepting that he called upon the strangers for some remarks, which he interpreted. The audience was respectful and attentive. The utmost decorum prevailed during the exercises. The closing hymn, was the translation of that familiar English Hymn, '* The Saviour calls let every one Attend the heavenly sound ; Ye doubting souls ! dismiss your fear, Hope smiles reviving round." We very much doubt whether Mrs. Steele, the author of this hymn, the friend of Addison, imagined it would ever be translated into the language of a savage tribe upon an island of the Pacific, not to be dis- covered until after she had been dead for a hundred years. After the morning exercises were closed, the Sabbath School con- vened, when about twenty-five remained. Through Mr. Snow as in- terpreter, the strangers present endeavored to interest the pupils. At the afternoon service, gathered, what Mr. Snow denominates " his Christian congregation." Among them appeared Kedukka and family, who have for some years professed a strong attachment to the gospel. Several others are affording the gratifying evidence of having been born again, and stand as candidates for church membership, while others show an inquiring state of mind. Kedukka, mentioned above, evinces a strong determination to make his light shine. He has com- menced itinerating through the villages upon the island, and appears to make known among his benighted fellow islanders, the truths of the gospel. Oh the following Wednesday afternoon, a most interesting prayer- meeting was held at the house of the missionaries, when native Chris- tians and strangers from abroad, " felt it good to be there." There was distributed for the first time, copies of printed hymns. While the labors of Mr. and Mrs. Snow were peculiarly designed for the natives of Kusaie, we feel that they have also accomplished a most important work in behalf of seamen. Oftentimes during their residence there, the harbors of the island have been visited by numerous whale ships, sometimes fifteen or twenty at a time ; but we shall refer to this topic under another heading. In addition to Mr. Snow's labors at the station, he is accustomed to make tours about the island preaching from village to village. These are very laborious. The whole south side of the large island seems much inclined to receive missionary labors, while the northern part is op- posed, and holds on to its former superstitions. The work however has begun and will spread, and unquestionably should the mission be pros- e9uted, the entire population will be soon brought under Christian influ- ences. As we shall show in another paper, the inhabitants of Kusaie are rap idly diminishing in numbers. This fact in connection with the ur- gent call for missionary labor at the Marshall Islands, has led to the prospective removal of Mr. and Mrs. Snow to Ebon, when the Morn- ing Star shall make another trip to Micronesia, His removal has been 41 decided upon by his associates of the mission, and approved of by the Prudential Committee of the American Board of Foreign Missions at Boston. It is now contemplated to supply his place by an Hawaiian issionary. as soon as necessary arrangements can be made. XXVI. GOVERNMENT AND CUSTOMS OF KUSAIENS. We have learned some interesting facts about this people. They have the most exact system of clannish tribal relationships that could well be conceived of. The name for tribe is Seuf. There 'die four tribes, no more nor less from time immemorial. The names of the tribes and their order, are as follows : Peinuii, Ton, Lisuge, and Neus. Peinuii, means true or correct. Ton, is the name of a sacred eel. Lisuge, a partition. Neus, is the name for foot. The Kusaiens marry in the most indiscriminate manner possible. From time immemorial the children follow the mother. The Jews were never more exact in their lineage than this people are in preserv- ing their line of descent. PRINCIPAL CHIEF. This office is not hereditary. Though not quite elective among the near relatives of the deceased sachem of the same tribe, yet in the prospective demise of the Togusa or King, there is a good deal of what American politicians would call log-rolling, for the King-ship, and after all is done, the chief of another tribe may succeed to the throne, if the popular feeling among the people sets strongly in that direction. A son of a former Togusa or King, may succeed to his father ; so also the son of a brother, or a sister, of the Togusa, although there is no law in regard to such a course. So far as Mr. Snow has been able to learn from observation or in- quiry, the duties of the Togusa are not confined to affairs of peace. In a war which the natives had with some foreigners in '57, who en- deavored to get possession of the island, the Togusa, was commandeF- in-chief of the tribes. Nothing could be done without his permission or direction. When peace was made by the arrival of the Morning Star, the Togusa was the sole executive in the crisis, though there was previously held a convention for consultation among all the chiefs. We learned from Mr. Snow the following interesting facts respecting the bonds of relationship. If a man has a dozen brothers, his children have as many fathers, besides their natural father, and all the children of those mothers are brothers and sisters. All the fathers, sisters or mothers to his children, and the sister's children, are brothers and sis- ters to her brother's children. The same law holds good on the moth- er's side. The names of individuals are not changed from the cradle to the grave, unless the person is exalted to become a chief. Then the com- 41 mon name is dropped and he or she goes by the official name. Every male chiefish title, has a corresponding female chiefish title, viz : Togusa male title, Kosa female title. Should the chief have several wives, but one can bear the official title. When the husband dies, the female title is gradually dropped. If another immediately succeeds to the chieftain-ship, the title is dropped at once, and all the honors, titles, lands, servants &c., succeed to the chief elect. Mr. Snow relates the folio-wing facts in regard to the absolute sub- serviency of the people to their chiefs or their king, e. g.: the male child of the daughter of old King George this daughter being the wife of the second chief in authority receives from her mother the same defe- rential regard that he would if he were a chief already titled. In ad- dressing the child, though but an infant, the prefix Se, equivalent to our Sir or Honorable, is invariably employed. This brother must never touch the child's head, although he may handle other parts of the child's body, oil or wash it, but no greater offense could be given to the parents of the child than for him to touch any part of the body above the shoulders. Now if this daughter ot the old kinj had an older sister, then this one of whom we have been speaking, would be obliged to ex- hibil the same tokens of respect to the older sister's child or children. All these ceremonies going or tending to keep the idea of the superior- ity of the mother, that the honors and royalty are lodged in her heredi- tarily. Mr. Snow furnished me with the following interesting facts in regard to their tribal laws, relating to help in sickness. If one is sick or in distress, or needs help in any other way, then it is the duty of the tribe to which he belongs to render that help. They, as speedily as possible, gather about those in distress, and remain with them until relieved, or removed by death. If removed by death, they continue their attentions, supplying all the necessaries for four days of feasting after death. This is a law of the tribes, and it altereth not. Mr. S. stated the following custom among them, in regard to the treatment of a chief's child, until it can crawl. It must never lie upon the floor, but be held, night and day, month after month in the arms of nurses and servants. The person holding the child, must allow its neck to rest upon the arm, that when the child is at rest, the head falls back. XXVII. DECREASE OF POPULATION ON KUSAIE. January 5, 1858, the Kev. Mr. Snow thus wrote to the editors of the Missiojiary Herald, as appears from the April No. of the Herald, for 1859. "I have just finished taking the census of the island again, and find that there are now about 830 inhabitants 518 mates and 312 females, including children ; making the proportion of mates to females about 5 to 3. When 1 took the census about two and a half years ago, the population was a few over 1100. This shows that our people are diminishing at a rapid rate, but the war has had some hand in the di- 6 minution the past year. I have found more infants upon the island than at any other time when I have taken the census. * * * When the books are opened there will be a scene presented from these islands of the Pacific where ships have been accustomed to touch, at which so called civilization will hang her head, and call upon the mountains and rocks to fall upon her, and if possible hide her shame from the gaze of the assembled universe. For at the bar of God, these men from Chris- tian lands will find there is such a thing as shame and remorse." At our visit, Mr. Snow allowed us to copy the following memoranda from his Journal: " Dec. 29, 1860. Finished taking the census to- day. I make 743 in all 523 in CJalan and 225 in Lila. The males ef the adults and older children 411, while the females of the same were 258. But of the younger children and infants the males were 37 and females 42, thus making the proportion of the older of the women to the men 0.63, while with the children, it is 1.13. This certain- inly is a hopeful phase for the restoration of the race, and I desire to thank God that it is so." XXVIII. MISSIONARY OFFICIATING AS SEAMEN'S CHAPLAIN. The Rev. ,G. B. Snow, at Strong's Island or Kusaie, has been ac- customed to officiate as Chaplain, when seamen were in port. In former years many English and American whale ships have visited that island for supplies. The bark Superior, Capt. R. D. Woods, vis- ited Strong's Island in 1860, and sailed from thence to the Solomon's Islands, where the master and nearly all the crew were cruelly massa- cred by the natives. An account of their massacre has been exten- sively published in the island and American newspapers. The disas- ter took place in Sept. 1860. Capt. Hugh Mair, master of the Eng- lish schooner, Ariel, thus writes from Rubiana, Solomon Islands, Nov. 30, 1860 : " On Sunday, the 16th, nine, of the crew went ashore. The carpen- ter and two men went to the settlement and were murdered in one of the native huts. The natives then proceeded, in canoes and overland, to the ship; and those who came by land fell in with the remaining six, close to the beach, and murdered them. About 150 natives got on board the vessel, and made a rush on the crew, who were all on deck except four who were in bed. Those on deck were immediately toma- hawked, only two escaping by jumping down the main hatchway, and joining the four below in the forecastle. One of the crew, whom I re- covered, saw the captain and second mate murdered by a native called 'Billy,' who has been to Sydney, and speaks English well. The chief Copan was the principal in this dreadful massacre. The six men below, being armed with lances, kept the natives from coming down the forecastle, until at last ' Billy ' told my informant that if they came up they should not be hurt. At length, therefore, they did so, and were at onc'e surrounded by the chief Copan's orders to be put to death. The chief America offered to buy three of .the men, and he 43 persuaded Copan to keep the other three to till the ground. These three, as I have already intimated, I could not recover." While the Superior lay at Strong's Island, the Master, Capt. Wood, and his crew were accustomed to attend the native service upon the Sabbath. The news of the massacre was taken to the island by the Morning Star. The Rev. Mr. Snow and wife were deeply affected by the sad intelligence. Mr. Snow then exhibited the following ex- tract from a letter which he had addressed the owners of the Superior in New Bedford. This letter was written and forwarded long before the news of the massacre was known. It was the postscript to a letter upon business, relating to a wreck, which had occurred at the island. " P. S. Gentleman, allow me to detain you for a moment by express- ing my interest in and high regard for this R. D. Wood. He has made our little island quite a port of entry since we have been located here, and from the first we have always hailed his coming with much pleasure. Among the almost entire licentious delinquencies of those who visit us, it affords me the truest pleasure to bear honorable testimony in favor of the uniformly pure and upright conduct of this Capt. Wood. Besides this, he has endeared himself to us by many an act of generous kindness in supplying some ot our wants, and es- pecially in bringing us some of our mails. Though not the most talkative of men, yet his occasional visits to our family in our isolated, but pleasant and happy home, have always been most welcome and afforded us much enjoyment. It may afford his good lady, some of his cousins and that favorite niece, some pleasure to hear thus of him, though it be from a stranger. Though we have seen less of Capt. Morrison of the Daniel Wood, yet it affords me sincere pleasure to bear equally high and honorable testimony concerning him. He has done us great kindness not only in oui mail department, but also in bringing supplies from Honolulu." On the last Sabbath the Superior lay at Strong's Island, the Rev. Mr. Snow preached the following discourse to the ship's company. Considering the untimely fate of so many interesting young men, far away from home and country, it may be interesting to their friends to learn that they should have conducted with so much propriety, during their last visit at a port where they could listen to the preaching of the gospel. This discourse was prepared without the most distant thought ihat it would ever be solicited for publication : " And straightway Jesus constrained his disciples |o get into a ship, and to go be- fore him unto the other side. MATHEW xiv:22. There cluster about our text some of the most instructive incidents and transactions in the life of the Divine Redeemer. He had been spending a short season in his own city, Nazareth, trying to impart heavenly wisdom unto the friends of his earlier days. But it was soon seen that a prophet had no honor in his own country, nor even in his own house. Like >many other foolish people, they loved things better that were " far fetched and dear bought." They were not to be in- structed by the "Carpenter's son," not they. So "He did not many mighty works there because of their unbelief." * * * 44 But let us turn our attention now to his disciples and that night upon the sea. While the Master was praying upon the mountains, the disciples were sailing on the waters. The disciples doubtless had a place in that prayer, and the chosen twelve thought and talked of their absent Lord. Four of those sailors at least, Simon Peter and Andrew his brother with the two sons of Zebe- dee were no strangers upon that lake. Many a long night had they sat in their boats alternately watching their nets and the Stars. They iiad thought of the sweet influences of the Pleiades, and the bands of Orion, they knew the hand that guided Arcturus and his sons. But now they had left their fishing tackle and their fathers and had been called to be fishers of men. The words and wonders of the preceeding day with the strangely abundant supper for that great multitude might have justly awakened their pride and feelings of ad- miration for their new master. But they are hardly out upon the sea ere they are beset with difficulties. A contrary wind and a boisterous sea kept them toiling in rowing for the livelong night ; and they had hardly made half their passage, when the dawning day brought to their astonished vision what they had supposed to have been a spirit, and they cried out for fear. The apparition came up and made as though it would have passed. But Jesus seeing and hearing their fears imme- diately talked with them, and said in his well known voice, " Be of good cheer, it is I, be not afraid." His word to their spirits was like " Peace be still" to the troubled waters. As soon as he is recognized the impulsive Peter must try a walk upon the waters. " And Peter answered him and said, Lord, if it be thou, bid me come unto thee on the water." And he said, Come ! I suspect the "if it be thou," in his prayer shows that the thoughts of the ghost had not all been displaced for complete faith in his Master. For when he saw the wind boisterous he was afraid, and beginning to sink he cried for help. Im- mediately Jesus stretched forth his hand and caught him. Then the rebuke, "O thou of little faith, wherefore didst thou doubt?" The wet Peter and the welcome Jesus were soon in the ship, when the wind ceased. They soon had prayers, and it was a pleasant morning wor- ship. For it is written, " Then they that were in the ship came and wor- shiped him, saying of a truth, thou art the Son of God." They were sore amazed in themselves, beyond measure, because they had forgotten the five loaves and the 5000. But ere they had finished their aston- ishment their passage is made, and they are all safely on shore with the opening duties of a new day before them. I hardly need pursue the narrative farther, though the following day is filled with incidents of peculiar and striking interest. We shall do better to pause here and gather a few practical lessons from what we have already witnessed. My audience will not object to our gathering some lessons from this night on the sea. I. Those who enter the service of Christ need not abandon the sea. I should almost feel like begging pardon of my seafaring friends for making such a remark, had not the assertion been so often made to me by those first in authority, that it is no use to try to be religious till we 45 are done with whaling 1 , and have quit the sea. I am aware that such remarks may be made to parry off the truth and to quiet an uneasy conscience, rather than as an honest expression of an intelligent man. And yet, my hearers, will bear me witness that giving utterance to such a sentiment whenever the claims of God and the duties of reli- gion are urged upon the conscience, would soon make a sentiment, however false, an absolute fact in its practical influence upon the lives of men. But God allows no such let off. His claims upon the love and service of his intelligent creatures are not limited to the land ; they extend from sea to sea, and from the river to the ends of the earth. And my heart rises in thankfulness to God that this is not mere theory. The witnesses upon the sea, though not so many as we could desire, have yet been very numerous, and sometimes of very marked and dis- tinguishing clearness, from that old voyager in the ark to the present time. Thanks be to God that he has always had a seed to serve him on the sea. And perhaps at no period in the past has the number of these been more rapidly multiplying than within a year or two of the present time. The means too are constantly multiplying to effect this same end. The intelligent sympathies also of the Christian world, are be- ing more and more wisely awakened and turned to the great and glo- rious result of gathering the fullness of the sea into the Kingdom of God. My friends of the Superior can you not trace growing emotions in your own hearts which will bear favorable testimony to the truth of these remarks ? If so, yield your hearts to those emotions and you will soon find in your own happy experience that those who enter the service of christ need not abandon the sea. II. Another lesson from that night upon the sea is that it is always safe to obey Christ. It is true that t now number over five or six thousand, still the tribal laws are perpetuated, and so far as intercourse is main- tained among the chiefs, much stately formality is observed, as appears in their feasts. There is no metropolitan or central government, no London, or Paiis, or Washington. From all we could learn, therein no tendency to union, but each tribe, and the rulers of each tribe choose to remain separate and distinct. We are not sure but the lines of the English poet will be found true when applied to Ponapians : " Mountains interposed, Make enemies of nations, who had else, Like kindred drops, been mingled into one." The Ponapians do not even congregate in villages, but their houses are scattered, here and there, along the shores or through the forests, and around the bays. There existing several good harbors upon the island . ships have resorted thither for trading and obtaining supplies. From 1S28 to 1852, vicious indulgences and immoral practices were carried on between the natives and low foreigners, with no one to utter a rebuke or interpose a remonstrance. Ascension became emphatically the Paradise of beach-combers, alias escapes from Sydney, and runaway Bailors." The influence of this class of persons among the people, was evil and only evil, and that continually. While visiting the Ronokiti Station, we called upon an old man, who had lived upon the island since 1832, or nearly thirty years. He was sick and approaching the end of life. We visited the poor old man three times, and conversed with him freely about the past. When asked, " What could have led you to settle among this people and live so long here ?" his reply was, <; to lead a life of laziness, drunkenness, debauchery and licentiousness." This answer told the whole story, and revealed the character of scores who have found a home upon Ascension. All the vices of civilization were rife there, so far as foreigner? could introduce them among a de- graded and heathen people. It was considered dangerous for ships to touch at some of the harbors. Among such a people, and living under such influences, the Ameri- can Mission was established in 1852. Hardly had the work been com- menced, when, in 1854, the small pox appeared and not merely deci- mated the inhabitants as at the Sandwich Islands, but actually took every other man, woman and child, reducing the population more than one-half. It will readily be seen that the two missionaries, Messrs. Stur- ges and Gulick, commenced their work under circumstances as unpro- pitious and unfavorable as it is possible to conceive. The nation wa^ reduced to its lowest state. This generation had inherited the terrible egacy of by-gone generations of superstition, vice and crime, to which was superadded a vast influx of foreign immoralities and vices, upheld *fid practiced by men devoid of shame, and impelled forward by the spirit of evil. If Christianity triumphs over so many counter influ ?nces, it must be the work of time, and the youthful soldiers of the 8 58 cross need not be surprised if they are called upon to pray, watch and labor, through a long "night of toil." Blessed be God, there are indica- tions,' that that " night of toil is drawing to a close." There are indi- cations of a dawning light. The Morning Star, has appeared, and it .3 to be hoped the Sun of righteousness will ere long make his appear- ance. It has been our privilege to visit that spot, where the elements of light and darkness are now struggling for the mastery. Our inquiry W33, " Watchman ! tell us of the night, What its signs of promise are ?" We heard the reply, "Traveler ! o'er yon mountain's height, See that glory-beaming Star." We asked again, " Watchman ! does its beauteous ray Aught of hope or joy fortell ?" The cheering answer came, " Traveler, yes : it brings the day, Promised day to Israel." XXXV. HEATHEN DEGRADATION INDICATED BY THEIR LAN- GUAGE. It is the remark of an eminent English writer, " To study a people's language will be to study them, and to study them at best advantage, when they present themselves to us under fewest disguises, most nearly as they are." The truth of this remark is as applicable to the study of the inhabitants of Polynesia as to the polished nations of Europe, In our efforts to arrive at a tolerably correct view of Micronesians, we round no better method, than to sit down with the missionaries, r.nd question them upon their success in communicating with their peo ;le upon religious subjects. It is a comparatively easy matter to pick up a few words and phrases, sufficient to barter in knives, fish hooks, and cloth. The trader may do this, in a few hours, but it is a very different affair to take up a grammatical and accurate study of their Languages, so that the missionary may be able to translate the Bible, compile school books, and compose hymns. This however is the missionary's principal work, but it is a work which yields a large re- ward. It introduces him to the very heart of the people. He sees their naked bodies with his eyes, but the study of their languages en- ables him to see their moral and spiritual nakedness and deformity. Their departure from God may be estimated by their language, agree- able to the words of our Saviour: " But those things which proceed out of the mouth come forth from the heart; and these defile the man." Math. 15:18. " How can ye, being evil, speak good things, for out of 59 the abundance of the lieart the mouth speaketh." Matt. 12:34. A people's language must indicate their moral character. The missionary becoming intimately acquainted with the language of the heathen, ^ able to judge, as no other person can, not acquainted with their lan- guage, respecting the moral degradation of the heathen. While the languages of Micronesia and other heathen nations or tribes are des- titute of words and phrases to convey correct ideas of God and mora; subjects generally, yet those same languages abound with words and terms respecting disgusting subjects and forbidden thoughts. Their vo- cabularies are wonderfully prolific in unchaste and impure words and terms. How painfully the mind of the missionary is tried, when he would translate the Bible into the language of the heathen. He finds that their languages are wanting in the words and terms required for translation. These languages may once have possessed those necessary sounds and terms, but alas, so far have the heathen wandered from th* right way, and so grievously have they departed from God, that they have lost correct ideas of the Divine Being and his worship. Hence, the missionary must spend toilsome days and sleepless nights, in hiic search after the proper terms, words and phrases to express religion truths. We found every missionary in Micronesia, eager in the study of the language of those islanders, where they are located, because there are now four American Missionaries in Micronesia, and each one is endeavoring to acquire the knowledge of what may be classified as a new language, for the inhabitants of Apaiang, Ebon, Kusaie, and Ponapi, speak really different languages, rather than different dialects of the same language. The difficulty attending these labors of the missionary, is often very great. He will spend months and even years before he is able to fix upon some word that will correspond to ttie Bible idea which he wishes to convey. The Rev. Mr. Sturges, although nine years amom: the Ponapians, has not yet settled upon the proper and satisfactory word for conscience, in the Ponapian language. The Rev. Mr. Doane, al- though speaking the language of the Marshall Islanders with fluency, after a residence of four years upon Ebon, has not yet been able to ascertain if there is any word in that language which correctly conveys the idea of regeneration or the new birth. Mr. Sturges has been equal- ly perplexed respecting the same word, but more recently, he hopes, that he has met with a term that conveys the idea, viz : wttikap ate. Wili signifiying exchange, Kap new, and Ata the directive. We asked him to inform us what a Ponapian understood by this term "Wilikap ata." He replied, that a native once illustrated the term thus, " A person born anew or again, is the same as if a shriveled and decrepit old woman should suddenly become young again." Thus the missionaries in Micronesia, are laboring in the same man- ner as the apostles did, respecting whom an English divine has re- marked, that they t; fetched from the dregs of paganism, words which the Holy Spirit has not refused to employ for the setting forth of the great truths of our redemption." The Greek word translated " regen- eration," is a good illustration of this remark. This word, it was necessary, however, to convert from paganism to Christianity to 60 f cangelize it, if the term may be allowed ! Long has Mr. Doane been laboring to fix upon some word to signify repentance ; but we need not produce other instances, for they have been continually occurring in the studies of every missionary not only in Micronesia and Hawaii, but every part of the heathen world where missionaries have gone. How little. the unreflecting visitor can sympathize with the missionary in his labors and to*ls or pilikias, to employ a term of Hawaiian derivation rapidly gaining currency among foreigners in the Pacific, and which ere long may take its position beside Tabu, in Webster and Worcester. Viewing the labors of the missionary from this point of observation, he takes a position among the scholars and linguists of the world. Enter his sanctum, and you see spread out upon his table, lexicons, diction- aries, books of exegesis, manuscripts, Greek Testament, and by his side sits a native, who is continually plied with questions respecting the meaning of words and sounds of letters, and it would not be strange if the missionary's wife was called from her domestic duties in the nursery or kitchen to give her opinion upon the meaning of some word or phrase ! Thus the missionary is employed in digging up Greek roots, examining Hebrew points, comparing English and German dictionaries, looking into numerous commentaries, and gathering information from every imaginable source, in order to translate the " Glorious gospel of the blessed God " into the language of the heathen to whom he has been sent. The eminent Dr. Judson, often lamented his want of books, dictionaries and other aids, in the work of translation. On one occa- sion, in writing to the Secretary of the Baptist Missionary Society in Boston, he thus remarks : "I frequently see a sterling work on the cover of the Herald or Magazine, and am ready to scream with variations The Book, the Book, my kingdom for a Book!' Yes, a kingdom, ii the same ship which brought the notice had brought the book too ; whereas I have to wait for letters to cross the ocean twice or three times at least, and thus two or three years' use of the book is lost, du- ring which time I am, perhaps, working upon that very portion of scrip- ture which that book is intended to illustrate." Who will not say that the missionary's life is a noble one, when thus employed? He is following in the foot-steps of Wickliffe, Tyndale and that glorious company of biblical scholars of the 17th century, who furnished our incomparable English version of the Bible. Thus Elliot toiled, and his translation of the Bible into the language of the Indians of Massachusetts, is a noble monument to his memory. Thus Judson toiled, and after forty years, gave the Bible in the ver- nacular to the Burmese. Thus we found the missionaries in Micro- nesia at their work. Toil on, Brethren ! Our visit may not have ben- efited you, but it did us good. You are doing a good and noble work. If language is " the amber in which a thousand precious and subtle thoughts have been embedded and preserved," you are embedding heavenly and divine truths in the languages of Micronesia, which will be preserved long after your labors have ceased, and continue to guide immortal souls in the pathway toward heaven ! The following paragraph from a lecture of Prof. Trench, King's -College, London, will show that Catholic Missionaries, in South Amer- 61 ica, meet with the same leading facts among the heathen, that \v f . have referred to in the labors of Protestants. " Dobrizhoffer, the Jesuit Missionary, in his curious History of the Abipones, tells us that neither they nor the Guarinnies, two of the prin- cipal native tribes of Brazil, with whose language he was intimately acquainted, possessed any word which in the least corresponded to our 1 Thanks.' But what wonder if the feeling of gratitude was entirely absent from their hearts, that they should not have possessed the cor- responding word in their vocabularies ? Nay, how should they have had it there ? And that this is the true explanation, is plain from a fact which the tame writer records, that although inveterate askers, they never showed the slightest sense of obligation, or of gratitude, when they obtained what they sought; never saying more than, 'This will be useful to me,' or 4 This is what I wanted.' " We would merely add, that similar remarks have we heard again and again from Protes- tant Missionaries in the Sandwich Islands and Micronesia. XXXVI. HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY ; OR DISHONESTY THE WORST POLICY. This oft-quoted old English proverb, finds facts in abundance to cor- roborate its truth. It is not only true when applied to the dealings of men in civilized and Christian lands, but to the dealings of those from civilized and Christian lands who go among savages for the purposes of barter and trade. In our intercourse among the inhabitants of Micro- nesia, this fact vyas painfully impressed upon us, by too many sad ex- amples of injustice and dishonesty, that honesty and fair dealing has not been the rule which has guided the civilized man in his traffic and dealings with the savage. Instances of well attested fraud and mean- ness, are commonly reported in those regions, which if brought before a jury of twelve honest men, would send the perpetrators to the State prison, or transport them to the penal colonies of Australia. Take the following as an example: a certain shipmaster in his dealings with the natives of the Marshall Islands, agreed to pay a certain amount of to- bacco, but what does he give in its place ? pieces of old tarred rope, cut up to correspond to the length of plugs of tobacco ! That man may have thought he had done a smart thing, and drove a profitable trade, but only think of the meanness and guilt of the infamous transaction. Hanging with a piece of tarred rope, would be too lenient a punish- ment for such guilty meanness. Think of the enmity which one such act would excite and keep alive among those savages ! No wonder their policy has been one of blood and murder towards the white man. Take another example. The inhabitants of Ebon, one of the Mar- shall Islands cut off a California schooner in 1852. Among the spoils, they found gold. It can be proved that it was not the chiefs, but some of the common people, who committed this act of piracy. The chiefs however took the money. A certain ship master touches at Eb- on, and finds this gold among the people. He obtains several hundred 62 dollars in gold, and promises to piv in tobacco, but getting the gold into his possession, makes sail and leaves the island. He doubtless reasons, those islanders are pirates and robbers ; they have no right to this money ! But what right had that shipmaster ? Had he any better claim than that of a robber and a pirate ? If that shipmas- ter was an Englishman or American, we ask him to ponder this proverb, " The receiver is as bad as the thief" If he was a Frenchman, let him ponder a proverb to be found in his language, which translated into English, reads thus : " He sins as much icho holds a sack, as he who puts into it." Respecting another shipmaster, who formerly cruised in that region and took away from Ebon some of the gold referred to, we would re- mark that he came to a most untimely fate. A correspondent of the Friend thus wrote from Ascension, Feb. 19, 1853: " Captain , of the William Penn received, it is said, over a thousand dollars. It was for this money one of his crew, an Oahu native killed him. That native has since been killed on Simpson's Island, by one, it is said, whom he himself was about to shoot. Thus do the dead bury their dead, and murderers execute murderers/' (See Friend for July, 1853.) We might multiply examples, almost without end, of the base tricks and little meannesses, dishonest bargains and dishonorable dealings of the white man with the savage or the inhabitants of Micronesia. Per- haps no islanders have ever fared worse, at the hands of the white man, than the New Zealanders, at the hands of Sydney traders and whalers. \Ve quote the following from an English book, entitled " The South- ern Cross and Southern Crown, or the Gospel in New Zealand :" " A little incident occurred one day when dining with a large party at Government House. [Sydney in 1806,] showing Tippahee's shrewdness of observation, and courage in expressing his opinion. [Tippahee was a New Zealand chief, who was visiting Port Jackson, Sydney.] A discussion arose as to our penal code : he could not reconcile our punishment of theft, with his own sense of justice, maintaining that stealing food when rerhaps the chief was hungry, ought not to be severely punished. He was told in reply, that according to English law every man who took the property of another was liable to be put to death. l Then,' exclaimed he, with animation, addressing the Governor, * why do you not hang Captain , [pointing to a gentleman then at the table.] Captain, he came to New Zealand, he come ashore and tiki (steal) my potatoes ; you hang Captain .' The captain was covered with confusion, for the charge was true ; he had, when off the coast and in want of potatoes, sent a boat's crew on shore, dug up Tippahee's plantation and carried off the the produce without offering him the slightest remuneration." Would that this was the only similar instance which might be quoted. How many such instances have tended to rouse the enmity of New Zealanders, and it may be true, that could the full history of the intercourse of English- men with the New Zealanders, be written out, it would be found that in- stances of wrong and injustice occurring a half century ago, were so burnt into the souls of the New Zealanders, that they are remotely the cause of that relentless war now raging between New Zealanders and 63 English soldiers. We now recall to mind the .story of an Englishman, from New Zealand, related in our hearing some years ago. In a for- mer war, the seat of which was the Bay of Islands, the natives were off their guard and unprepared for an attack, because it was the Chris- tian Sabbath ! They were told that Christian soldiers would not make an attack upon that day ! Alas, that was the day when they rushed in and butchered the unsuspecting savages ! (See Southern Cross, &c., page 226.) While referring to " the tricks of traders," we recall to mind the in- stance of a certain shipmaster, (and we could give name of ship and master,) who purchased furs of an Indian in Plover Bay, Arctic Ocean, and agreed to pay in rum, but so adroitly was the Indian deceived, that he took ashore a keg of salt water ! As if dealing in rum was not sufficiently bad, but the mean souled man must put salt water into the keg, in place of the rum ! ! What would not such a man do for money ! We frequently met that man in the streets of Honolulu. He acknowledged the deed, but tried to apologize lor its baseness. We asked him, could you blame those Indians, if they cut off the next ship which entered their Bay for trade or supplies ? He replied not a word, and we parted. When we reflect upon such in- stances of guilty meanness and dishonorable baseness, we are inclined to ask, when hearing of ships cut off in Micronesia and elsewhere, " have not the guilty perpetrators cause for resentment ?" If shipmasters and traders, going among savages, are not influenced by the precept of our Saviour, " Do unto others, as ye would they should do unto you," it is strange that they cannot be induced to act from the principle of self-preservation. If they are not, very soon some of their seafaring companions may be cast ashore wrecked among those savages. If they are, what but death can they expect will be their fate ? There is current among the free blacks of Hayti, a proverb, which we would commend to the consideration of those who are inclined to deal dishonestly with savages " Before crossing the river, do not curse the crocodile* smother" meaning, provoke not wantonly those into whose power you presently may be cast. While alluding to these instances of dishonorable conduct, on the part of the white man, with his savage brother of a darker skin, it affords us pleasure to record the fact, that many have pursued an oppo- site course. The savage appreciates honesty and fair dealing. W r hen traders and shipmasters pursue an honorable and upright course, they are remembered and their second visit will be hailed with joy, but if a trader of the opposite character ever returns, let him beware of the consequences. The trouble is, the innocent are made to suffer for the guilty, as at the Marshall Islands and other localities. A most remarkable illustration of the remark that " the innocent are made to suffer for the guilty," we have in the murder of the Rev. John Williams, the Apostle of Polynesia and Martyr of Eru manga. We copy the following from the Samoan Reporter for March, 1860. The Rev. George Turner, in reporting the 14th voyage of the Missionary bark John Williams, makes the following statements respecting his visit to Erumanga, on Saturday, 15th of October, 1859 : 64 " Anchored in Dillion's Bay on the following morning, viz., Saturday, Oct. 15th. Mr. Gordon was? soon on board, and accompanied by him some of us went ashore, and up the hill to his residence, about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, and there we found Mrs. Gordon well. Owing to the unhealthy swarnps on the low grounds, Mr. G. has built his rottage on the high land. Close by the house, he has erected a small chapel, and has a fine bell at the one end, which echoes from hill, to hill, and calls the tribes to theii little Zion. " Every spot was associated with the tragic scenes of November, 1839. At the foot of the hill on which the chapel stands is the stream in which Mr. Harris fell, and the beach where Mr. Williams ran into the sea. Down the hill, below Mr. Gordon's study window, is the spot where the oven was made in which Mr. Williams' body was cooked. Over in another direction is the place where the body of Mr. Harris was taken. Inland is a grove of cocoanuts, underneath one of which the skull ol Mr. Williams was buried. The bones taken to Samoa by Capt. Crok- er, in H. M. S. Favourite in 1S40, were not the remains of Williams and Harris. He had no proper interpreter. The natives thought he wanted to buy human bones, and took off' for sale whatever were handy from one of the adjacent caves, where they deposit their dead. One of the skulls was that of the father of a lad we had for some time with us in our Institution in Samoa. It is difficult at present, owing to hos- tility among the tribes, to get at the precise tree under which the skull of Mr. Williams was buried ; but there let the remains of the martyr rest, and form part and parcel of the root of that palm which waves its foliage in every breeze, emblematic of the Christian hero's triumph ! A piece of red sealing-wax found in Mr. W. ? s pocket was supposed by the natives to be some portable god, and was carefully buried near where the skull was laid. Mr. Gordon lately recovered "this, and hand- ed it to me, to convey to Mr. W.'s children, as the only relic which he has been able to obtain of their lamented father. At first he thought, from the description of the native, that this 'god' would turn out to be Mr. W.'s watch ; but when found, it was only red sealing-wax. The clothes and other things found on the body after the massacre, were all distributed about, with the exception of this bit of sealing-wax, an inch and a half-long. "We had the pleasure of spending a Sabbath at Erurnanga, and met with about 150 of the people in their little chapel. All were quiet and orderly. It thrilled our inmost soul to hear them, as led by Mr. Gor- don, strike up the tune of New Lydia, and also the translation and tune of There is a happy land.' Mr. Macfarlane and I addressed them through Mr. Gordon. They were startled and deeply interested as I told them of former times, when we tried so hard to get inter- course with them, and to show them that we were different from other white men who had visited their shores. When I read out the names of seven who swam off to us in 1845, and to whom we shewed kind- ness, and took on shore in the bout, it appeared, from the sensation created, that one of them was present. He came, after the service, shook hands, said some two or three more of them were alive, that our visit that day greatly surprised them, and that they marked our vessel "~ 65 as the one which shewed them kindness, and did not take sandal-wood. They thought us quite different from all the white men with whom they had previously came in contact. "On the Saturday, I saw and shook hands with the chief Kauiau. who killed Mr. Williams, and on Monday met with him again. I also saw one of his men, called Oviallo, who killed Mr. Harris. These two men feel ashamed and shy when the John Williams comes. Neither of them was at the service on Sabbath. Probably they have had a fear also which they found it difficult to shake off. I hope, however, that Kauiau has now perfect confidence in our friendly intentions. On the Monday, he and Oviallo walked about with us, shewed us the place where Mr. Harris was first struck, the place in the stream a few yards from it where he fell, and the course along the road, and down to the beach where Mr. Williams ran right into the sea. Here, too, Oviallo helped us to pick up some stones to take with us as mementoes to surviving friends of the sad event. Mr. Gordon has erected a little printing-office and teacher's residence close to the spot where the first blow was struck at Mr. Harris. I have planted a date palm seed there, in a line towards the stream with the spot whfcre Mr. Williams fell. " But the most striking and permanent memento of that sad day is a great flat block of coral on the road up the hill, about a gunshot from the place where Mr. Williams fell. There the natives took the body, laid it down, and cut three marks in the stone, to preserve the remem- brance of its size. The one mark indicates the length of the head and trunk, and the other the lower extremities, thus : Head and trunk, 37 inches. Extremities, 25 inches. A native lay down on the spot, and, lying on his right side, with his knees somewhat bent, said, that was how it was measured. " When the Camden hove in sight, on that morning of the 20th of November, '39, the Erumangas thought it was a sandal-wooding party returned, who had but recently killed a number of their people, and plun- dered their plantations. They were the more confirmed in this impres- sion from the fact that the boat pulled in to the very place where that party had landed before, and erected some huts. That morning, they had all ready prepared heaps of yams and taro for a feast which was to take place close by up the river ; they felt galled at the thought of their being stolen by the white men, and determined to try and prevent their landing; or, if they did land, to attack them if they attempted to go up the river to the place where the yams and taro were. They sent the women and children out of the way, and hid themselves in the bush, but especially off the road leading up along the western bank of the stream. When Mr. Harris made to go up there, and had reached the spot where I have planted the palm tree, the shell blew, Kauiau rushed out with his party, and commenced the attack. Five out of seven who were foremost in the massacre are dead. The people were not united in the affair ; some were for it, and some were against it ; hence the remark of Capt. Morgan : 'They made signs for us to go away.' the principal thing in that sad day which melted their hearts with pity 9 66 was, they say, * the man in the boat who stood and wrang his hands and wept ;' and that, I suppose, was good Capt. Morgan. 41 After surveying these scenes, so full of affecting recollections, we went off to the vessel, and took Kauiau with us. We got him down into the cabin, and, as this is the first time he has ventured to go below, it proves that he has now entire confidence in us. We exchanged presents also. We gave him a trifle, and he and the people brought off to the ship forty yams, twenty heads of taro, and three bunches of bananas the first present which the missionary vessel has ever had from Erumanga, and the murderer of John Williams. On show- ing Kauiau all over the ship, we stood before Mr. Williams' portrait in the saloon, and told him that was the missionary he killed. He gazed with intense interest, said he thought he could recognize the full face, and the stout body, and was earnest in leading up to it some others who were with him, and in explaining what it meant. Kauiau is still a heathen comparatively. Let us hope that he may soon take a stand on the side of Christ. Mr. Gordon says, that Oviallo is a more hopeful character, and seems to be deeply grieved as he thinks of his having had * hand in killing ' a man of God.' ' Thus it appears that the apostle to Polynesia, was murdered on ac- count of the iniquitous and wicked conduct of sandal wood traders. " If honesty is the best policy," so "dishonesty is the worst policy." XXXVII. EVERY MISSIONARY TO THE HEATHEN SHOULD BE A PHYSICIAN. This should be the landing rule, and the only exception allowed should be in those instances when the missionary goes to parts of the world where there are educated physicians. We have not formed this opinion hastily. Some four years ago, at our suggestion, it was dis- cussed at length in the meetings of the Hawaiian Evangelical Asso- ciation, and the subject was deemed of sufficient importance to be no- ticed in the annual " general letter " to the Prudential Committee of the American Board in Boston. We have seen the importance of medical knowledge and informa- tion among the missionaries upon these islands, but during our late cruise through Micronesia, the subject has been impressed by a wider range of observation. While at Apaiang, we witnessed the praise- worthy effort of the Rev. Mr. Bingham, to introduce vaccination. Eight days before our arrival he had visited the whale ship Belle, Capt. Brown, and obtained some excellent vaccine matter from the arm of Capt. B's infant child. The evening before our departure from Apaiang, Mr. Birtgham, Capt. Gelett, and another person present, un- dertook the work of vaccination. We hope our humble efforts may prove as successful as those of Dr. Jenner, who first discovered the wonderful antidote to the small-pox, but never did we feel so much the importance of medical knowledge. Mr. Bingham laments his deficien- cy in this respect. Medical knowledge would increase his influence 67 and usefulness, we verily believe, at least twofold. The Hawaiian Missionaries on Tarawa, are not supposed to know much about curing bodily diseases, yet applications are made to them for medical advicel At the Marshall Islands, this subject was forced upon our considera- tion by a most painful combination of facts. There was sickness in the missionary's family, but no physician was at hand. There was sickness among the people, but there was no physician who felt con- fidence in his ability and skill, yet Mr. Doane was continually compelled to administer medicines and prescribe remedies. Mr. Doane felt so strongly upon the subject, that even now, at the age of thirty-six or seven, he is contemplating a visit to the United States for the purpose of attending a course of Medical Lectures. During.our detention at Kusaie, or Strong's Island, the same subject came up for consideration. Mr. Snow has been obliged to administer medi- cines. He is living among a diseased people. With medical knowl- edge, he might not have been able to have saved a wasting race, but he might have enjoyed the satisfaction of having made an intelligent effort. He has done what he could, but often has been obliged to ad- minister medicines, when medical knowledge might have led him to have acted differently. The natives will have medicines. They are believers in the art ! King George's favorite son was dangerously sick a few years ago, and a whaler arrived in port. The king hurried for medicine. The shipmaster gave him a bottle of something, and the following morning, the young man was a corpse. The King was heard to remark, " Well, the Captain's intentions were good." On our arrival at Ponapi, we very soon became acquainted with facts in abundance, to show the importance of medical knowledge among missionaries. What would not the Rev. Mr. Sturges have given for medical knowledge during the ravages of the smallpox? The following is an extract from his journal, published in the Mission- ary Herald for May, 1855 : " July 12, 1854. The Lord's hand is heavy upon us. Never did death work more fearfully, or with less opposition. The panic- struck natives fly to the mountains and to uninhabited islands ; then they come back again, and seize some victim of the disease to carry to their homes, thus spreading the contagion to all parts, so that a spot can- not be found where it is not doing fearful execution. Never was deso- lation more complete. "Nor is it a small ingredient in our bitter cup, that we can do no more to lessen the evil. Our destituton of vaccine matter, the power of the priests over a bigoted people, together with the stories of aban- doned foreigners respecting our bringing the sickness here and our in- tention to kill all the natives, render our efforts to come into contact with their sufferings nearly fruitless. They often resort to the basest deceptions to keep us from the dwellings of the sick, that the addi- tional curse of our presence may not fall upon them. Much has been said to them about inoculation ; but they do not understand its nature ; and as it would kill some, and serve to spread the contagion, it seems a matter of prudence not to press it. " In these circumstances, with the dying groans of thousands in our 68 ears, forced by heathen superstition and a heathenized civilization from sufferings which \ve would gladly mitigate, shut out from all connection with a Christian world, we love to think of the thousands who remem- ber us at the throne of grace. It is sweet to go there often ourselves, and to those rich promises, ' They that sow in tears shall reap in joy ;' Lo, I am with you always.' " 20. For weeks I have been mostly confined to our own district, going about but little, as our Nanakin keeps his people at their homes, allowing but little intercourse, wishing to keep the sickness at a dis- tance. This is a large district, and nearly the only one where the small-pox has not made ravages. " During this temporary seclusion, the Nanakin, with his train, has been quite attentive to his books, coming to my house every day for instruction. " Besides my ordinary teaching, I have tried to commu- nicate some things respecting the treatment of the small-pox to the people through him ; and I hope I have not utterly failed. He would, no doubt, request to be inoculated, were it not for the fears of others. We rejoice, and would have our friends rejoice with us, in a more un- obstructed and friendly contact with this suffering, deluded people." SUCCESSFUL INOCULATION. As Mr. Sturges has not received a med- ical education, it will be seen in the following extract that he assumed a very grave responsibility. There are few men who would not shrink from such a measure. (El. of Missionary Herald.} " August 5. I have this day inoculated our Nanakin. This is de- cidedly the greatest venture of my life. If he does well, all will be well ; if he dies, we can hardly expect to escape savage violence. We try to work the Lord's will ; and we know he always makes issues for the highest good. " 12. 1 have this day re-inoculated the Nanakin, and with him a favorite brother. This shows his determination, and his confidence in the missionary. Never did I feel more the need or help of special pleadings with the great Physician than now. "25. These anxious weeks are over. The Nanakin is well, having had the sickness so lightly that it is hard to feel he has been sick. His brother also is doing well. To the Lord let all glory be given ! I am now very busy inoculating. Every body, far and near, urges me to this. I have now, and shall have for weeks, more than I can do. Poor people ! Some of them will die, probably many, and I must have the credit of killing them. I do sometimes tremble at my responsibilities ; but I will never shrink, so long as I can feel that the hand of my Master is about me. The Nanakin accompanies me in my visits to distant parts of the tribe. This he does that I may not have to propel my own canoe, and to give more influence." Another extract will indicate the hazard of medical practice among such a people. It will also illustrate the mastery which superstition has gained over them. (Ed. Missioiiary Herald. ) " September 10. A high chief, a subject of inoculation, has just died. He was one of the worst men we had, occasioning nearly all the wars between the tribes, us also robberies, neighborhood quarrels, &c. He urged the killing of the missionary, awhile since, as the cause of the sickness. Failing in this he fled to a small island, where he remained for months, until the small-pox broke out on his premises on the main land, -when he returned. Seeing me inoculate the Nanakin, he begged with tears that I would do the same thing for him. Through all his sickness he was anxious to see me, as he seemed to have the great- est dread of dying. He might have lived ; but at the crisis of his disease, the spirits appeared, saying, 'Come away,' 'Come away.' On receiving this order, he was carried several miles, which was too much for his weak body. Such orders for a change of place are almost always given in the later stages of sickness, and doubtless cause many deaths. Many are unquestionably buried alive. There are frequent cases of persons rising from their grave-clothes. This fact suggested to them the return of the soul to the body, after a temporary absence. They hurry the corpse into the ground, to keep any stranger from looking upon it, as this would greatly offend the spirit. All the fears of the living seem to center in the agency of departed spirits. If one is sick, or meets with anycalamiity ; if any noise is heard at night; if anything singular happens, it is the work of ghosts." Such facts, as the foregoing, are sufficient to convince any candid mind that a missionary to Micronesia, should be a physician ar, well as clergyman. There are very many other missionary fields where the call is equally pressing for missionary physicians. We do think the Board of Missions in Boston, should insist that missionary candidates should have attended, at least, one course of Medical Lectures. We can anticipate some of the excuses or pleas which will be offered for neglecting the study of medicine by missionary candidates viz :* want of time, pecuniary means, disinclination, &c. Then we reply, the Board should make the rule imperative and stringent. It would be a saving of money to the Board, in the end, if every missionary candidate was educated as a Physician from the funds of the Missionary Society. An eminent Frenchman, gives the following as his definition of a physician : " An unfortunate gentleman who is expected every day to perform a miracle, namely, to reconcile health with intemperance." But the missionary, without medical knowledge, is still more unfor- tunate, for he is expected to arrive at the same result, but must go at his work blindly! The followingextract from the "Cyclopedia of Missions," presents our beau ideal of the method of carrying on the work of missions among a heathen people : " Arcot. This city is seventy miles from Madras, on the road to Bangalore, and is the centre of a very populous and destitute district. At this place Mr. M. Scudder commenced a mission in March, 1850. Having already become quite distinguished for his medical and sur- gical skill, his services were in immediate demand, from forty to fifty visiting him daily. His custom was to meet his patients in the morn- ing, read and explain a passage of Scripture, and pray with them, after which he attended to their maladies. Through his medical la- bors he gained access to many Hindoo but those few are accomplishing an Herculean work. They 10 74 should be reinforced without delay. More American and Hawaiian missionaries are called for and an open door of usefulness invites them to enter the field. No youthful missionary preacher or school teacher could ask or desire a more promising or inviting field. I envy not the man, who can visit that portion of the heathen world, from which I have returned, and gaze upon the thronging groups of children and crowds of adults, and not say ' mine eye aftecteth my heart.' As I visited those crowded villages, in company with the missionaries, and saw the work to be done and the encouragement to labor in that work, I could sympathize with those missionaries as they raised the Macedo- nian cry, ' Come over, and help us.' They need help and they should have it. I pledged them my word that 1 would return, and do all in my power to send that help, and support both those now upon the ground and as many more as can be sent thither. The Micronesian Mission, I know, is under the patronage of the American Board of Missions, but that organization desires the cordial co-operation of Christians and the friends of missions upon these islands. That society is desirous that Hawaiian Christians will send forth a goodly number of mission- aries. Those Hawaiian Missionaries, now upon Apaiang, Tarawa, and Ebon, are laboring efficiently and successfully, but where there is one Hawaiian, there should be five. ' The harvest is great, but the la- borers are few.' How earnestly ought we to pray * the Lord of the har- vest that he will send for the laborers into the harvest.' " XL. THE LAST. We are now brought to the last Paper, concluding the series in which we have endeavored to present a sketch of what we witnessed during our cruise through the Islands of Micronesia. These papers have multiplied beyond our original design, and \ve now find it more difficult to break off than to continue, but as there must be a " last number," we have concluded that it should be " No. XL." In bringing these sketches to a close, we are, by no means,, inclined to break off our study of the Micronesians and those interesting islands. We hope to have still much pleasant correspondence with the mission- aries. If, in future years, circumstances should be favorable, we should not be disinclined to make another trip through that region of the great Pacific, hence we do not say " farewell " to either missionaries or Micronesians. We think our readers will be interested in glancing over the follow- ing catalogue of Micronesian Missionaries : American Missionaries in Micronesia. Rev. B. G. Snow and wife, on Strong's Island, or Kusaie, from Oct. 1852, to present date. It is expected that they will remove to Marshall Islands next year, and their station be supplied by Hawaiian Mission- aries, 75 Rev. L. H. Gulick, M. D., and wife, on Ascension, from Sept. 1852, to October 1859 removed to Ebon, and remained there until Oct. 1860, and since that time upon a visit to Hawaiian Islands, now under de- signation for Gilbert or Kingsmill Islands. Rev. A. A. Sturges and wife, on Ascension, from September, 1852, to present date. Mrs. Sturges is now visiting Honolulu. Rev. E. T. Doane and wife, on Ascension, from Feb. 1855, to Oct. 1857, removed in 1857 to Marshall Islands, (Ebon,) and % is now there. Mrs. Doane on a visit to Honolulu. Rev. H. Bingham,jr., and wife, on Apaiang, Gilbert Islands, from Dec. 1857, to present date. Rev. George Pitrson, M.D., and wife, on Strong's Island, from Sept. 1855, to Oct. 1857, and then removed to Ebon, where remained until Oct. 1859. Now settled as Pastor of Presbyterian Church, in Brook- lyn, California. Rev. E. P. Roberts and wife, on Ascension, from Oct. 1858, to July, 1S61. Now in California. Hawaiian Missionaries in Micronesia. B. Kamikaida and wife. Teachers in Ascension from 1852 to his death, which occurred in 1858. His wife has since been married to H. Aea, the Hawaiian Missionary on Ebon, Marshall Islands. D. Opunui and wife. He died at Strong's Island, in 1853, and his wife returned to Sandwich Islands. S. Kamnkahiki, and wife. They went to Ascension, in 1855, as teachers, and returned in 1857. They are now located at Hana on the island of Maui, where he is most usefully employed as a licensed preacher. /. W. Kanoa and wife. They sailed in company with Rev. Dr. Pierson, in 1855, and were located two years upon Strong's Island, and were then transferred to Apaiang, Gilbert Islands, where they are now actively engaged in the missionary work, associated with the Kev. H. Bingham, jr. The Rev. J. Mahoe and wife, sailed in 1858, and are now upon the Island of Tarawa, Gilbert Group. They are associated with K. Haina and wife, who sailed in 1860. H. Aea and ivife sailed in 1860, and are associated with the Kev. Mr. Doane, on Ebon, Marshall Islands. From the foregoing catalogue, it appears that seven American Mis- sionaries, with their wives, and seven Hawaiians with their wives, are all the laborers who have ever been employed in that missionary field. Whatever of good has been accomplished has been done by them. Four of the American Missionaries and four of the Hawaiians are now connected with that mission. The Rev. Mr. Gulick and family, Mrs. Sturges, and Mrs. Doane, are now visiting the Sandwich Islands, but they are expecting to return. The Hawaiians, who have returned, are not expected to be again employed. From a careful review of the Micronesian Islands as a field of missionary labor, the number of islands which should be occupied by missionaries, the number of people to whom the gospel should be 76 preached, the success which has attended the work, so far as prosecuted, and the prospects of success, we are fully impressed with the belief that the enterprise should be vigorously carried forward. There are obstacles to be overcome, and difficulties to be encountered, but not greater than are presented in other parts of the world. The low coral islands of the Gilbert or Kingsmill and Marshall groups, are unlike many other missionary fields, but judging from the present prospects, and the success of missionaries upon similar localities in the " South Seas," we may anticipate most happy results. The following statement respecting the success of the English and native missionaries in the " South Seas," upon the coral islands of the Hervey Group, we copy from a recent report of the Rev, J. Bickncll, who has visited Tanning's Island, where many of these natives are employed in the manufac- ture of cocoanut oil : The following communication was addressed to Rev. L. Smith, Cor- responding Secretary of Hawaiian Missionary Society : "TANNING'S ISLAND, Sept. 24, 1861. " Rev. and Dear Sir : "You are aware that in the month of June last, I took passage from Honolulu in the schooner Marilda for this island. The motives which influenced me to make the voyage were these ; first to confer with my brother, whom I had not seen for some years second to obtain a knowl edge of the manufacture of cocoanut oil : third, to form an acquain- tance with the people of some of the islands of the South * Pacific un- der the patronage of the London Missionary Society, so as to be in- formed of the manner of operations of that Society in conducting its missions. The passage down was made in nine days. Fanning's Island is the first lagoon island I have seen, consequently the sight is an agreeable change. My visit has been a pleasant one, every thing being done on the part of the proprietors of the island to make it so. Upon my landing, the native operatives (people of Manihiki and Rakahanga, lagoon islands of the South Pacific,) were all assembled on the beach to see the Orometua, or Missionary ; word having previously reached the shore that there was one on board. Unlike the Marquesans, these people I found to be a very mild and inoffensive race. In general appearance they resemble the Tahitians ; their costume and style of civilization being the same. Their lan- guage resembles the Rarotongan. Their missionary teachers are from that island ; two of them are stationed on Manihiki, and one on Ra- kahanga. Also, I found upon the island, a few natives from the Pau- motu,or Chain Islands. The whole of the native population amounted to about 150, about two-thirds of the number are employed in the manufacture of cocoanut oil. Among these people, there were seven- teen church members ; a deacon from the church at Manihiki being ap- pointed over them as their spiritual teacher. Shortly after my arrival, the operatives were paid off, their term of -service having expired. On the 17th July, they returned in the Ma- rilda to their homes. While they remained on the island, I conducted 77 their religious services, meeting with them three times on the Sab- bath, and twice through the week. With the Manihiki and Rakahan- ca people, I communicated through the Karotongan language, and with the Paumotuans, through the Tahitian. I found them attentive listeners. Such as had Bibles, brought them to Church, and followed the reading. Those who were furnished with pencil and paper, took notes. One thing which struck me very favorably was this, the whole congregation, both young and old, joined in the singing. As might be expected, there was not very much of music in the singing, but the absence of melody was compensated, however, by the hearty good-will with which all joined in the strain. There was an attractive simplicity in the religious worship of these islanders highly pleasing to behold. Would that the like simplicity would obtain among the more civilized races! They pressed me very strongly to accompany them to their islands. It would have given me great pleasure to have gone with them, but my state of health, at the time, would not admit of it. I wrote a joint let- ter, however, to the Missionary brethren bidding them God-speed in their labor of love. Also, I put into the hands of my brother (who was to accompany the people on their return) a paper containing a list of questions to be asked of the Missionary Brethren. The nature of these questions may be known from the answers to them, the substance of which is as follows: The mission on Manihiki and Rakahanga was established in 1849. The John Williams (missionary bark) has called six times. Two white missionaries have visited the island, Mr. Buzacott, and Mr. Gill. The population of Manihiki is 464, that of Rakahanga 475. The number of church members on Manihiki 137 ; on Rakahanga 94. The people are governed by Kings, or Chiefs ; one on Manihiki, and one on Ra- kahanga ; the chief of Rakahanga has also an influence on Manihi- ki. The influence of these chiefs is considerable, (though their power is not absolute as was that of the chiefs of ' Hawaii ' in former times.) The missionaries receive no stated salaries their supplies consist of articles of clothing, &c., contributed by the members of the churches at Rarotonga. The people contribute weekly supplies of food for the maintenance of the missionaries. The state of society is peaceable. The people are governed by laws, which are very strict ; being the same as those of Rarotonga. The missionaries exert almost an unbounded influence over the people. The Rarotongan Bible and hymn book, are the devotional books in use. All can read excepting some of the old people. The people are on the increase. They live in villages ; the houses being ranged on each side of the road. There are two villages on Manihiki, and one on Rakahanga. On Rakahanga, the houses are, for the most part, built of stone and plastered. The churches are built of stone, of which churches there is one in each village ; the dimen- sions of each being 60 feet long, 36 feet wide and 18 feet on the walls. The people subsist upon cocoanutsand fish; the islands also produce a species of taro of very inferior quality called by the natives, puroka, the Tahitian name for it, is Apura. The islands are but seldom visited by whaleships. The people obtain their supplies of clothing from Fan- 78 ning's Island, as the rewards of their labors in the manufacture of cocoanutoil. In former years, the clothing of these people consisted of matting made from the pandanus leaf ; the men wore maros, and the women the pau, and also the kihei. At present, the men are habit- ed in pants and shirts, and the women in loose robes, or gowns. On the 15th August, the Marilda returned from Manihiki, bringing a new band of natives, about 130 in all. Thirty-six of the number being church members. My intercourse with these people has been of the most pleasing kind. I thank God for granting me the privilege of witnessing the triumphs of His grace among these islanders. I begin now to have a hope of the christianization of all the islands of Polynesia. This work is pre-eminently that of native missionaries. It can be carried on with the aid of only a few foreign ones. Neither is there a neces- sity to translate the scriptures into all the different dialects, since one translation may suffice for those which are the nearest resembling, as we see in the case of the Rarotongan and Manihiki languages. I see no reason now why the Hawaiian literature may not be introduced into the Marquesas. The resemblance between the Rarotongan and the language of Manihiki, is not very much greater than that between the Hawaiian and the Marquesan. This shift I believe may be adopted with success, should the means not be at hand for printing the Scriptures in the Marquesan language. I have exercised the Manihiki and Rakahanga people in Bible class, and have found them fluent readers of the Rarotongan Scriptures. With a little patient instruction, Marquesans may become as equally proficient in the Hawaiian. The teachers employed among these islanders, seem to be more emi- nent for their love for souls, than for their learning. The true mission- ary salt is the unction for souls." NOTE. The Morning Star Papers are printed as a " Supplement te the Friend," and the postage to the United States will be four cents. Single copy, 25 cents. Twelve copies, $2,00 To be obtained at H. M. Whitney's Book Store, and the Sailor's Home Depository. INDEX. Fifth cruise of Morning Star, GILBERT ISLANDS Population, . 5,6 15 - 7 K Si ev. L. II . Gulick, B. G. Snow, - A. A. Sturges, E. W. Clark, - J. Bicknell, Dr. Judson, - John Williams, IIP WRECKS, Columbia, - Flying Fox, - M. D., 3, 30, 36, 37, 75 38-48, 50-58 - 54-61,67-69 71, 72 76, 7H 60 64, 65 17 - 17 Council Houses, - Government, - Royal family of Tarawa, Mission, - Commerce, ..-...- Food, - - . - Foreign intercourse, MARSHALL ISLANDS Population 8 - 9 9,10 11,12 15 - 15 17 , 34 on 29 Origin of people, 29 Foreign intercourse, - 23, 26 Mission, - 20, 21, 30, 31, 32 Kaibuke, - - - -27,28 Schools, 32 Deference to rank, 33 34,35 54 Farewell glance, CAROLINE ISLANDS At a glance, Island of Kusaie, Ruins on Kusaie, - - 36, 37 Mission on " - - - 38, 39 Government " - 40, 41 Decrease of population, - 41, 42 Kusaien Language, - 50, 51 King George, - - - 52, 53 Island of Ponapi, - - 54, 55 Mission on Ponapi, Ruins on Ponapi, - - 70,71 Rev. H. Bingham, jr., 11-14, 66, 75 Ontario, - 17 Wm. Neilson, - - - - 24 Sea Nymph, Glencoe, - - - - 25 Globe, .... 26 John Bull, - - - - 71 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. Hawaiian and Gilbert Island dialects compared, 7 -- ' 11,34 21,22 31 53 58-61 43-48 Remarks upon Natural Science, 48-50 35 Translation of English hymns, Cruise of Bark Belle, "Lovers of Jesus" King George of Tonga, Heathen degradation, Sermon, by Rev. B. G. Snow, South Sea Misssions, 53-58 The Tricks of Traders, Sea-sick Poetry, ^ - Missionary Physicians, 55, 56, 76-78 61-74 14, 15 66-79 E. T. Doane, 19, 29-35, 66, 75j Appeal in behalf of Micronesia, 72-74